TT HOW TO MAKE HAND MADE FLOWERS ADA JONES SMITH ^ HOW TO MAKE HAND MADE FLOWERS by ADA JONES ^MITH Instructor of Millinery Columbia University New York Published by ADA JONES SMITH Room I0I2 — loi Park Ave., Xcw York First Edition Copyright 1922 Bv ADA TONES SMITH ^ ^ -^0 > % ©CU684685 m24 72 /v\0 1 INTRODUCTION In this book of Hand-made Flowers it has been my aim to give a variety of principles and to show^ the many kinds of materials that may be used with satisfac- tory results. It would be folly to deceive ourselves or others in thinking we may imitate Nature's handiwork. We can only hope to have hand-made flowers artistic. Many times the same principle is used for various flowers. To make the flower realistic, choose a shade of ribbon or silk as near the natural color of the flower as possible. To further distinguish the flower add commercial foliage. Proper foliage for many flowers is obtainable. For in- stance, in making violets, we would use violet colored material, — if a rose, we would use rose-colored material. In this book are thirty-two models and the use of many different materials is described,— silk, satin, velvet, organdy, kid, velvet, ribbon, chiffon, gingham, fancy ribbon, and chenille. / The fancy ribbon creations are nice for boudoir decorations such as lamp or candle shades, pillows, bags or fancy boxes. Pink satin or chiffon flowers are used with pleasing effect for caps and negligee. A hat may be trimmed with flowers made of the same material as the hat, or a contrasting material is in good taste. Many evening gowns are trimmed quite elabo- rately. A single flower or a small bunch of flowers may be used to add interest to an afternoon or street dress. The woman who likes^. ^to express her individuality appreciates this. Velvet or velvet ribbon flowers are used for after- noon dress, yarn flowers for street dress, and organdy for an organdy hat or dress. All these flowers not only add charm to the gown or hat, but also are fascinatmg to make and truly very simple to the one who knows how. Though exact measurements for the models have been given, after making a few you will find that the size is not so important when you reflect that flowers are all sizes. You will know the principles and so you will be able to utilize many small scraps in your flower mak- ing. The kid flowers are made from the top part of old kid gloves. The art of flower making may be the means of increasing one's earnings. The author knows many who have done this. Some have taken orders, some have sold their creations as they were completed, others sell through Woman's Exchanges, and still others teach classes in flower making. Thus the possibilities of this work are manv. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR FLOWER MAKING V^AREFULLY read directions for making a flower. Note which silk is dampened before using and which is not. Note which petals are gathered between thumb and finger and which need to be gathered with a needle and thread. Plan silk needed before you begin to cut a flower, place your pattern on your material as you would before making a dress. Prozndc yourself zvitJi the follozviiig things: piece of oilcloth for table top, j^ yard of clean cheesecloth, a platter or plate, old scissors to cut wire, sharp scissors to cut silk, tape measure or small ruler, pencil, box of pins, sheet wadding, absorbent cotton, needle and thread and thimble, sachet, pincers, ten cents worth of gum arable. Take ^2 yord of cheesecloth, fold twice, wet in ice cold water and wring out as dry as possible. Place this on a platter. Between the folds of this wet cloth some of the petals are dampened before making a flower. Cut all of your patterns and silk pieces before you start to make a bunch of flowers. If when working with a petal it gets dry put it back under the wet cheesecloth to dampen and take another. Absorbent cotton makes a fine filling for sachets, apples and but- tons for rose centers, but lamb's wool is easier to sew thru. It is more expensive than absorbent cotton and less apt to be found in every home. Sheet zvadding is used when a flower is large and a common wire stem is too weak and small to look nice with the flower. Cut a small sheet of wadding into strips 12 inches square, tear it into ^ inch widths, sepa- rate the layers. Wind one piece at a time. A padded stem is covered more easily with fibre. If too many layers of wadding is wrapped on the stem wire at one time the stem will be bulky and hard to manage. Thus wrap stem with one thickness at a time. Add as many strips as necessary to make stem the desired size. Glue. Obtain ten cents worth of powdered gum arable from any druggist. Put this with 2 teaspoons flour in a large mouthed bottle, pre- ferably an old mucilage bottle. Add 2^^ to 3 teaspoons cold water or as [5] little as it will take to soften the gum arable, allow to set over night. If it is too thin the next morning set it aside in a warm place without the cork. Allow it to evaporate to, the consistency of commercial glue. One should plan to prepare the glue several days before using it. If this glue is kept for some time after making it may sour. Souring will not harm the stick- ing qualities. If it becomes thin while not in use remove the cork and allow it to evaporate for several days. This is a most satisfactory glue. Stamens when purchased will have little flecks of color on both ends of the linen threads. To use them in a center one may follow dia- gram and text of Art. XXII. Or one may cut the desired amount from the bundle and have the color only on one end of the thread. Keep your stamens smooth and bound tightly. This makes it easier to cut them. Be- fore cutting them know that your bundle is caught tightly thru the mid- dle with winding wire. Cut the desired number away from the bunch on one side of the center wire and leave stub of cut ends under the wire. To arrange a hunch of stamens about a pep hold the stamens be- tween your left thumb and finger and place chosen pep on them and work them about the stem evenly (Art. VII, Fig, 12). Add interest to your center by varying the length of stamen stems. Tie stamens securely and clip excess ends at an angle up the stem and bind with winding wire. Re- move stififness from the center by bending the stamen threads in over the pep. To apply ivinding zvire hold leaf or petal between thumb and finger of left hand. Take winding wire in right hand and bring end up and catch it between the thumb and finger of the left hand while winding wire 2 or 3 times about the base of the leaf with the right hand. Pull wire tightly, cut away most of the excess material beneath base, hold tie wire in right hand straight out from flower and stem in left hand and twist stem, rolling flower up on wire toward right hand. When all of the goods tapering down on the wire has been secured bring wire in right hand in and down to form stem. As one goes along making flowers one's technic becomes more perfect and there is less material wasted in finishing the base of a petal or a flower. The best workmen have very little, if any excess goods tied into the winding wire to be tapered off before the stem is finished. [61 A spray or calyx may be commercial or may be made of silk or velvet as follows: (1) take a small piece of material 1 inch square; (2) fold diagonally three times; (3) fold fourth time and one end will be longer than the other; (4) cut ofif this long end; (5) clip each corner of triangle slightly; (6) unfold spray and slit i/^ the distance from center hole to the periphery of piece of material, this will make it fit better when stem wire is run through hole and spray folded and glued about base of flower. See Article XI. Another kind of spray has been described in Article IX. Flozver centers may be a commercial product or may be assembled by using stamens and peps. Leaves like those used in Berry Cluster are the most commonly used. They are made from squares of silk (Art. II, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8). A more economical leaf may be made like leaf described in (Art. Ill, Figs. 4, 5, 6). Sometimes one has a small triangular piece of material but cannot get a square out of it. So save all of the small queer shaped pieces of materials. The leaf included in the Loose Bud Spray (Art. I) is present more for its green color than for its realistic appearance. Organdy and silk may be hemstitched into triangular pieces and used for leaves with picot edges. When having this hemstitching done it is always a good plan to have a quantity done at one time. One is constantly using green leaves and these are always correct. They are a good) style for so many flowers. Commercial leaves can be obtained at milliner shops. Stems may be finished in a variety of ways. They may be covered with rubberized tape, silk winding fibre, bias strips of green silk, velvet or green organdy, white or colored embroidery cotton or silk. There are also many commercial stem coverings. Rubherizcd tape has glue in its preparation and may be made to adhere by pressing with the thumb and finger. To apply, start at the base of a flower and cover the base thoroughly, twist the tape about the stem for i/^ inch or more then, holding flower and wire stem in the left hand pull tape down toward end of wire and flatten onto wire with a few rolls of the thumb and finger. Tear tape at end and roll. 17] Green IVinding Fibre is one of the dressy stem finishes. Cut as much fibre from the spool as you think will wind the stem. Allow this fibre to uncurl as much as possible. Do not try to roll about a stem. Turn the stem with one hand and wind the fibre on flat and smooth with the other hand. In assembling a bunch of flowers one may (1) tie all wires in one stem and tape or silk the branch, or (2) all wires may be covered sepa- rately and flowers tied in a bunch with stems spread or sprangled out. [8] Loose Bud Spray Article I "UT Art. I, Fig. 1. () — One inch squares for buds 3 — 2^ inches by 1% inches for leaves This bunch of silk flowers consists of six buds and three leaves. It is very pretty when made of silk of different pastel shades. While the leaves may not seem the shape of a leaf they lend color to the bunch. Place the pieces of silk between the wet cheesecloth until they become thoroughly dampened and smooth. When ready to use, take a piece of silk fof bud and fold diagonally. (Art. I, Fig. 1). Start at right hand edge to gather with thumb and finger. Hold with left hand and gather with right. Then hold with left thumb and finger and have 3 inches of wind- ing wire extend below the bud. Twist one end of fine wire around the base of the bud three times, pulling tightly (Art. I, Fig. 2) with the right hand. The ends of the wires make the stem of the bud. While the silk IS still wet take the pincers and with the very point catch the tip of the puff and twist two or three times. (Art. I, Fig. 3). To release pincers, press down in the center and at the same time pull the pincers out. Wrap the wire stems with rubberized tape. LEAF Take the piece of silk cut for leaves and proceed as follows : (T ) fold the raw edges to the center; (2) fold again lengthwise; (3) tie in a loose knot : (4 ) bring the two ends together : (5) hold in place with the left thumb and finger and wind around the base with winding wire. Finish same as the bud. (Art. I. Fig. 4. 5, 6, 7). Assemble the six buds and three leaves by tying them with a fine wire and covering the wire with a piece of the material used to cover the stems. Sprangle or spread the stems. Art. I, Figs. 2, .V t Art. I, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 9] Berry Cluster Article II CUT 3 — 1 inch squares for leaves 10 — 1 inch squares for berries, 1 HE Berry Cluster consists of ten berries and three green leaves. To make a berry, place the pieces of silk in the damp cloth. Take a small amount of cotton and roll it with thumb and finger to make a small hard ball. Add flakes of moist cotton until desired size of three-eighths inch is obtained. Place the ball of cotton in the center of piece of moist silk and fold silk diagonally. (Art. II, r>.r Fig. 1, 2). Pucker all of ^ the silk to one point at the base of the covered ball ; catch in place with winding wire. Wrap the wire tightly about the silk and stem, then holding the wire at right angles to the stem twist stem and bind to the end of the silk goods. Do not wrap these stems with tape. TO ASSEMBLE: (1) Beginning at the top, group three berries, place one with low; (2) wrap winding wire high and tightly about the base of ries; (3) add/ a fourth berry below the last two and secure with wire; (4) add fifth and sixth berries, one on each side of fourth and secure ^ as above ; (5) add seventh under fourth and wrap with winding wire once; (6) add eighth and ninth under fifth and sixth, securing again; (7) add tenth berry under seventh to finish the clus- ter (Art. II, Fig. 9) ; (8) leaving the longest wire to form the stem ; (9) cut away the remaining fine wires at an angle. Never clip them ofif in one bunch or in one place on the stem. LEAF Fold silk diagonally, bring the left hand corner A to the right hand corner Art. II, Figs. 1, 2, 3. tW'O be- the ber- windine Art. II, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, 10] B. The raw edges are now on the open side. Gather raw edges at the base with right thumb and finger. Hold with left thumb and finger and wind with winding wire as you did the buds. Wrap the stems of the leaves with tape. Place them back of the ber- ries so that the leaves only will show. Wrap aj] wires in one stem and twist stem up and around artistically. ©€)© \0/ Alt. II, Fig. 9. Raisins Article III CUT 16 — \}i inch squares for raisins. 5 — Triangles 214 inches on each side. (Green for leaves) Raisins make a very smart trimming for a hat when placed about the crown or on the brim of a large hat. It makes the bunch more interesting if one can get the raisin shade of silk but these ornaments may be made any color one has silk to make them of. To make raisins: put the pieces of silk in the wet cheesecloth to dampen. (1) Take one piece of silk and fold diagonally; (2) press edge with thumb and finger; (3) gather from the right hand corner B to C and from C to A; (4) hold with the winding wire and cut aw^ay silk to taper ofif nicely on stem (Art. Ill, Figs. 1, 2); (5) hold firmly and flat with the left thumb and finger and with the pointed end of pincers or pin take a tiny piece of silk and draw it down as tight and as far as pos- sible (Art. Ill, Fig. 3) ; (6) Do this in two or three places while silk is wet. When dry the raisin will continue to have the realisti- cally rough and wrinkled appearance; (7) ^^'>ap each stem with tape or winding silk. LEAF. This leaf is made of a triangular piece of silk. (1) Turn top edge over to make a [11] Art. Ill, Figs. 1, 2, 3. Art. Ill, Figs. 4, 5, 6. quarter inch hem; (2) press with thumb and finger ; (3) bring down to C ; (4) gather with thumb and finger up to A ; (5) wind with fine wire and wrap with tape or winding floss. TENDRIL For the tendril use about 12 inches of winding wire. SpHt the winding fibre and wind a few strands on the wire, then wind the covered wire around a small knitting needle to make the tendril. BRANCH To make the branch: (1) take 4 inches of stem wire; (2) wrap it with a ]/4 inch strip of sheet wadding; (3) cover 1 inch down with fibre silk ; (4) turn and bend the covered tip over to make a loop of covered wire % to ^ inch in length; (5) proceed to cover the stem with silk winding fibre. CUT 1 y^ — inch square 2 — 1^ inch square >t , , , . , fLeaves 1 — 1|4 inch square j Cut the required pieces of silk and place in a damp cloth. In making apples : ( 1 ) Cut a piece of the small green stem wire about four inches long; (2) make a small loop in one end of the stem wire; (3) attach a length of tie wire in the loop; (4) catch the center of the silk squares and attach the silk tightly to the stem wire with the winding wire — this will later form the dimple or blossom part of the apple — (5) sheet wadding and wind it around the w the silk is attached. Use sufficient quantit [12 Small Apple Spray Article IV CUT 1 — 1-}4 inch square 1 i^lH inch square y 1 — XYa. inch square ! Appl( les Art. IV, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. Take a long ^4 inch strip of ire up near the end to which y to fill the silk plumply ; (6) bring down each corner of silk over the cotton and work in the rest of the silk (Art. IV, Figs, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) ; (7) Hold in place with left thumb and finger and secure with winding wire; (8) cut ofl^ the green stem wire and taper off the bulky silk nicely; (9) wrap ^4 inch of the stem with tape or winding silk. LEAF Refer to article II, figures 4, 5, 6. 7, 8. TO ASSEMBLE THE GROUP: (1) Wrap a 6 inch stem wire with a ^4 inch strip of sheet wadding; (2) cover 1 inch down with fibre silk; (3) turn and bind the covered tip over to make a loop of covered wire ^4 inch in length ; (6) proceed to cover the stem with fibre silk; (7) insert the smallest leaf one inch from the loop, bind to stem with winding wire, cover with fibre silk and proceed down the stem; (8) ^ inch below place the smallest apple and hold with winding wire as you did the leaf; (9) ^ inch from apple ]Dlace the second leaf and on opposite side from this leaf; (10) place the second apple; (11) 1 inch from this apple set on the two leaves, and ( 12) 1 inch from these leaves the largest apple. Now that they are as- sembled wrap the long branch with the tape or winding silk. Apple Spray Article V CUT 3 — 2y2 inch squares. 8 — leaves as per pattern Plate IIL C-UT the pieces of silk for apples and place in a damp cloth. ( 1 ) Take enough cotton to make the apple the desired size; (2) place this cotton in the center of the silk; (3) fold silk diagonally; (4) bring the other corners down and work in the rest of the fullness with left thumb and fingers; (5) secure with winding wire; (6) cut awav the bulkv silk and wind the rest to taper off nicely (Art. V, Figs. 1, 2, 3 ). There are several ways to make the blossom end of the apple, but first make the dimple for the blossom by bringing a needle and thread through the cotton and silk two or three times, pulling tightly to form the dimple. Now take a piece of silk of a dark color (^ inch square) and sew in center (Art. V, Figs. 4, 5). Trim off all but a tiny amount. You may also use ^ inch brown yarn or Yx inch green embroidery silk [13] or anything for a little color at the blos- som. Wrap each apple stem with winding silk or tape 1 inch only on the stem. LEAVES To get a true pattern of the leaf, place tissue paper over the diagram and trace. Plate III. Cut 8 leaves of silk, being most careful to leave the top edges on the bias of the silk. Place silk in the damp cloth. When thoroughly dampened : ( 1 ) turn the top edge down ^4 ii^ch and press edge ; (2) find center of the straight folded edge ; (3) fold right half in at right angles to left half ; (4 ) fold left half in so that the edges of right and left half meet in the center of the leaf. Looking at the leaf one finds all of the fullness or folds upon the top surface. The back of the leaf will be smooth; (5) proceed to fold as per diagram (Art. V, Figs. 8, 9, 10, 11) ; first on the right and then on the left side, folding each time from silk on top or pushing the top silk over to make the desired fold. Each fold covers the raw edge of the last. Gather petal or leaves at the base with thumb and finger. Hold with winding wire and wrap with tape or silk. Assemble leaves so there is a bunch of four on each stem. Place apples in the center, hold with tape or winding wire. Art. V, Figs. 1, 3, 4, 5. 14] Daisy Article VI CUT 16 petals as per diagram 23, Plate IV. 2 — \y'2 inch squares. 2 green leaves from same pattern as petals. Be most particular to have the top or straight edge of the pattern on the bias of the silk. Cut the two pieces for the bud and center of the flower from silk of color of the flowers. Place silk for petals and leaves in the damp cloth and proceed to fold as in making the folded leaves for Article V. Hold in mind you are to make a long slim petal or leaf (Art. VI, Fig. 1). Each time you fold, pull all excess fullness toward base of petal. Do not try to get in too many folds. Finish all petals the same length. Be careful to cut away the bulky silk after securing end of petal with winding wire. Before as- sembling the flower wrap 1 inch of stem of each petal with winding wire. If you wish the petal to curve a little, shape it with your fingers while it is damp and allow it to dry that way. BUD AND CENTER These are made as the berrv in Article II. Figs. 1. 2, 3). See (Art II, TO ASSEMBLE THE PETALS: ( 1 ) Place them evtnl}' around the center ^4 inch from the end of the petal, set two on at a time, wind tightly with wire and set on two more and so on; (2) when 16 have been ar- ranged in this manner cut away all but one wire and wrap this with a V^ inch strip of sheet wadding. Two inches along the stem from the base of the flower place the bud and two leaves, hold with the fine winding wire and wrap the whole stem with winding silk. Art. VI, Fig. 1 15 Small Peony Article VII Petals CUT 5 small 7 large 4 large for green leaves as per diagrams 20. 21, 22, Plate IV. Before cutting the petals and leaves be sure that the straight edge of the pattern is on the bias of the material. Place the silk in the wet cloth. ( 1 ) Turn the top edge over twice to the depth of ^4 inch; (2) from center fold a long narrow sweep to the left; (3) keep on folding long narrow sweeps, cov- ering the raw edge each time; (4) hold the completed side between the fingers of the left hand and fold the right side in the same way. Be sure to start from the center of tip when folding the right side. As the edges are curved there will be about 5 or 6 folds along each side. This then gives the desired light and dark shading along the edge of the petals ; (5) gather at base with thumb and finger and hold in place with wind- ing wire. Make each petal or leaf fiat by pressing it tightly between thumb and finger (Art. VII, Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6). TO ASSEMBLE: (1) Arrange a small bunch of stamens about a fancy pep. A rolled bud may be used instead of a commercial pep (Art. VII, Figs. 1, 2) ; (2) secure them in place with winding wire; (3) cut a stem wire 5 inches long and secure end in center of the stamens ; (4) trim away the bulky ends of stamens and finish with winding wire ; (5) set small petals on, one at a time. Set them high and close to pep and wind tightly, once around for each petal. Cut away excess wire; (6) set large petals on exactly even with the base of the small petals. Use winding wire as above; (7) finish wires neatly. SPRAY OR CALYX Cut a piece of silk 1 inch square and trim around the edges to make 4 or 5 scallops. Snip a hole in the center and pull the stem through. Place a bit of glue on the scallops and press them to the back of petals 16 STEM Cut a strip of sheet wadding i.^ inch wide and separate. \\' rap a stem wire with this to make a soft surface to hold the winding floss or fibre. LEAVES The leaves are made in the same manner as the petals. Wrap the stem 1 inch down with the winding silk. Place two leaves on the stem each side of the flower. Hold with winding wire. Cut away the fine wires to make a smooth stem. Wrap the stem from the base of the flower down to the end. The small peony has a leaf and petal that requires patience to make but the finished product is well worth the efl^ort. A flower of this kind is very pretty on almost any kind of a hat. If the folds have a tendency to release the raw edges, a speck of glue on a tooth pick tucked in here and there will correct this. Taffeta Rose Article VHI Xms rose is made of a light weight tafleta. Three cir- cles are used. One 4 inches cnxie diameter cle 3>^ diameter m One cir- inches in One cir- cle 3 inches in dia- meter. Divide each circle into five parts and cut to within % inch of the cen- ter on each one of these spokes. Round ofi^ corners slightly and place in a damp cloth. When thoroughly wet curve the edges by roll- ing over a knitting needle (Art. VIII, Figs. 1, 2). When dry touch up with a darker shade of transparent water color to make the rose more realistic. Place stamens in a small bimch at the end of a green wire and around this bunch arrange a second row with heads about ^/^ inch higher than the first row. (See Art. XIV, Figs. 1, 2). Make a small opening in the center of the smallest circle, push the stem wire through, draw about J4 inch of silk down on the stem and hold with winding wire. This gives the petals the overlapping that we wish them to have. Repeat with the second and third. Finish the back of the rose with a commercial calyx. Cut and insert stem in a rubber stem made especially for roses. [17] It is large enough to be cut in two places to in- sert the stems of branches of leaves. The end of the wire must be turned back 34 inch against rubber stem to hold it in place. Glue the calyx in place. Roses In the making of roses and roselike flowers such as the pond lily, similar principles are in- involved : (1) the silk for the petals is cut in squares; (2) it is folded diagonally; (3) gath- ered in small pleats or gathers from right hand An. viii. Figs. 1, 2. upper corner B down to corner C and to left hand corner A to C (Art. IX, Figs. 9, 10, 11) ; (4) working thus with a piece of silk on the bias allows a great deal of freedom in shaping the petal. Each petal should be curved and rounded out as it is gathered at the base; (5) the edge of each petal is improved by folding it back Ys inch. This gives strength to the rim of the petal and in some flowers adds the charm of increased size or fullness. This is done by holding the petal in the left hand with concave surface toward you. The Tea Rose (Art. IX, Figs. 9, 10, 11, 12) is the most simple to make. It needs no special length or width to the petals and is assembled easily. Whereas the petals for the Bud Rose (Art. XII) must be a given length. And the petals of the Pond Lily (Art. XI) must be kept curved but flat and broad. Centers of roses vary. One may assemble a rose about one of several different centers. (1) A rolled bud (Art. IX, Figs. 8, 12) ; (2) a baby bud (Art. XI, Fig. 5) ; (3) a commercial pep (Art. VII, Figs. 1, 2) ; (4) a bunch of commercial stamens (Art. XIV, Fig. 1) ; (5) a berry with or without commercial stamens. Stems may be finished by slipping the stem wire into a commercial stem or they may be twisted with silk fibre or rubberized tape. [18 / Tea Rose and Berry Article IX CUT 5 — iy2 inch squares for petals. 1 — 3 inches by I14 inches for center. 11 — 14 inch squares, light. 11 — yi inch squares, dark, for berries. 2 — \3^ inches by 1 inch for green calyx or spray. 3 — \y2 inch square for green leaves. This group illustrates the way in which one may use scraps and small pieces of silk. Two shades of silk, a light and a dark may be used. The leaves should be green. I would suggest that you make the berries first. (Proceed as in Arti- cle II, Figs. 1, 2, 3.) These berries are about half the size of the ones described in Art. II, but the smaller the berry the more efifective it is and the more easily it is handled. TO ASSEMBLE: Each cluster contains eleven berries assembled to assume a conical shape. (Blackberry.) (1) Have one berry in the first row or tip; (2) four in the second row, securing two at a time; (3) secure the last row of six in a cir- cle around the base of the second row. (Art. IX, Figs. 1, 2, 3.) THE CALYX OR SPRAY Is the green at the base of the berry. To make spray from the piece of silk 1% by 1 inch ; ( 1 ) turn the top edge down y^ inch ; (2) place this folded edge up close to the last row of berries. It will encircle this group once and a little over; (3) gather the raw edge down and around the stem wires and hold in place with winding wire; (4) cut away the extra silk so that it tapers ofif nicely ; also cut all of the wires except one and wrap this one with tape or winding silk. Art. IX, Figs. 1, 2, 3 Tea Rose Make the center of the rose the same as a rolled bud. (Art. IX, Fig. 8.) To make the petals: (1) fold each ly^ inch square diagonally and press with thumb and fingers; (2) gather from the right hand corner B to C with thumb and fingers and continue on from C to A. This forms a cuplike petal. (3) Secure base with winding wire; (4) turn the creased edge back 1-16 of an inch. (Art. IX, Figs. 9, 10, 11, 12.) [19] Art. IX. Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, TO ASSEMBLE: (1) Place one petal on each side of the center; (2) hold tightly to the rolled bud center and secure with winding wire; (3) place the last three around the others and wire; (4) cut away the bulky silk and all wires but one; (5) wrap the remaining wire with silk or tape. LEAVES. (See Art. II, Figs. 4, 5. 6, 7, 8). Assemble the rose, berries and leaves artistically and hold with winding wire, then cut away all the wires but one and wrap stem with tape or fibre. Art. IX. Figs. 9, 10, 11, 12. als of the rose proceed as in (Art. French Rose Artici-e X IL'T 3 — 2 inch squares for petals. 3 — lJ/2 inch squares for petals. 5 — 3 inches by 1J4 inch for buds. [1/2 inch squares for leaves. Cut all of the pieces of silk from dimensions given above and place them in a damp cloth. For the pet- IX, see Figs. 9, 10. 11.) ROLLED BUDS. ( 1 ) Turn top edge of silk over ^ inch; (2) turn the lower edge up 14 inch ; (3) fold again lengthwise; (4) take a piece of green stem wire and place it at the left hand end of the folded silk. Have the tip of wire extend ^-4 inch above silk; (5) catch the raw edge of the silk around the wire to hold it in place ; (6 ) bend the wire down from top and catch silk as you fold it again lengthwise. (Art. IX, Figs. 4, 5. 6, 7, 8). Form the bud by folding "or turning the strip of silk with right hand as left hand [20] turns the bud around. Bring the end of the silk to the green wire and secure to the green wire by the winding wire. Then cut away the green stem wire for only the fine wire is necessary for stems. Trim away the extra silk which is on the stem and cover stem with winding silk or tape. LEAVES. (See Art. II, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.) TO ASSEMBLE: Place and secure the small petals about the rolled bud center. Set them on one at a time. Place the three larger petals outside the smaller ones so that the petal curves cover the spaces between the first petals. Cut away all but one wire. Wind with tape the stem of each bud and leaf and assemble. Pond Lily Article XI CUT 5 — 3 inch squares for petals. 5 — 2j4, inch squares for petals. 5 — 1^ inch squares for bud. 13 — • ^ inch squares for silk peps. 2 leaves as per pattern 5, Plate L PETALS OF LILY. (1) Cut and place silk squares for petals in wet cloth; (2) fold a square diagonally and stretch, holding on to corners A and B ; (3) gather raw edge with thiunb and finger, shaping as you go; (4) secure with winding wire in following manner : first wrap wire loosely about gathers, then fold petal together and wire tightly. Unfold and shape broad and flat after wire secured; (5) crease edge of petals as described for roses. (Art. IX, Fig. 11). SMALL SILK PEPS. Place the pieces of silk in a wet cloth. Take the ^ inch square and fold diagonally, bring the right hand corner B to lower corner C, the left hand corner A to overlap B at C line. Gather and hold in place with winding wire. (Art. XI, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5). Wrap each one with wind- ing silk. After 13 have been finished, take a small bunch of commercial stamens and place a piece of green wire in the center and hold stamens to stem wire with winding wire. Trim away the extra ends and finish nice and neat. Place 8 of the silk peps around the stamens having them evenly spaced and have them extend ^ inch above the heads of the sta- mens. Hold in place with winding wire. Use this center for the lily and make one for the bud in the same way but only add 5 of the small silk peps. [21] TO ASSEMBLE THE POXD LILY: On the center just described set the inner petals. Set them on one at a time and not too close to the center. Set outer petals on around the inner petals. Trim off the extra wires. Take a ^4 inch strip of sheet wadding and wrap stem of flower. Then wrap with silk fibre down 2 inches and set a leaf on the left of the stem and a leaf and a bud on the right, secure these to the stem wire and continue to wrap with the wind- ing silk fibre. Finish base of flower with spray of same silk. TO MAKE SPRAY OR CALYX : (1) cut a small piece of silk. (1 inch square or less will do ) ; (2) cut 5 or 6 scallops around the edge; (3) snip a tiny place in the center and pull stem of rose or bud through; (4) glue to base of bud or flower. POND LILY BUD. Take the 1^ inch squares, place them in the wet cloth and proceed as for petals of the lily. To assemble, set the five small petals on around the center containing the small silk peps and commercial stamens. Have the pet- als overlap each other a little bit. Wrap the stem down about 2 inches with the winding fibre. LEAVES. Art. XI, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. ^n -11 r *i 1 • ^ ^ • The silk for these leaves is not put in a wet cloth. A piece of soft spool wire is to be glued in the edge. Cut the wire an inch longer than the length of the circumference of the leaf. Hold the leaf in the left hand and put glue on the edge of the leaf with a toothpick or any fine pointed instrument. At first you will not be able to glue all the way around and get the wire in before the glue is dry so do a bit at a time and fold over edge wire. Leave 3/4 inch of wire at base to start, also at the finish. Press glued edge in place with thumb and finger. Gather leaf at the base with thumb and finger and secure with wind- ing wire. When edge is dry draw a line down the center of the leaf and sketch veins into this line. Dash a line here and there along the edge to hide wire. Wrap the stems with winding silk. [22] Rose Bud Spray Article XII CUT 3 — 3 inch squares, petals. 3 — 2y2 inch squares, petals. -1 — \y^ inch squares, bud petals. 1 — 2 inch squares, bud petals. 4 — 2 inch squares, leaves. 4 — 1 inch \y^ inch, spray. 3 — 2 inches by 1 inch, spray. CiUT the above pieces of silk in any color, but use green for the leaves. Place the pieces in a damp cloth. The center of the large bud is made of one of the small buds. BUDS. Fold the silk diagonally and press the edges with thumb and finger. Bring the left hand corner A down to lower corner C, then bring the right hand corner B down to C, extending 34 of an inch to left of C. Gather at base with thumb and fingers, hold with winding wire and trim ofif excess silk. (Art. XI, Figs. 2, 3, 4, 5). Finish base of four of the buds with green spray or calyx. (Art. IX, Figs. 1, 2, 3). LARGE BUD. Fold the silk squares diagonally and press edges with the thumb and finger. Then stretch the center, holding at the base C to pull the top or fold in the center only. Length is the principle here. Proceed to make petals as the other roses. (Art. IX). Shape them long and pointed. TO ASSEMBLE: Cut a piece of stem wire 5 inches long, fasten upon it the bud you have saved for the center of the large rose. Place the three smallest pet- als around this bud. Have the top of the petals come to the top of the bud and overlap each other Yx inch. Then place the three large petals, having the base of petals ^ inch below the base of the first three. Se- cure one petal at a time, cut away the fine wires and wrap stem wire neatly. THE CALYX OR SPRAY of this bud is made of three pieces of green silk. Turn one of the 2 inch edges down ^ inch, gather the other long raw edge with thumb and finger to a small petal shape. Place at the base of the bud and secure with winding wire. Set on the second and then the third, having each one overlap the other ^4 inch at base. Cut away the excess silk and taper off nicely. Wrap the stem wire of this large bud with a 34 inch strip of sheet wadding. LEAVES. (See Art. II, Figs. 4, 5,6, 7, 8). [23] TO ASSEMBLE THE BRANCH : Place a bud on the tip of the stem wire and the tirst leaf 1 inch below the bud and the other two buds 1 inch below the first leaf. Wrap stem with winding silk. Arrange the other branch, having 2 leaves 1 inch below the bud on the tip and the last leaf )^ inch below the other 2 leaves. Wrap all stems with winding silk. Place a branch on each side of the main stem 1^/2 inches below the large bud and hold with winding wire. Cut away the fine wires and continue to w-rap the large wire with the silk. White Kid Dogwood ARxrci-E XIII CUT 4 kid petals. 3 kid leaves. Diagrams 9 and 10, Plate I FROM WHITE SATIN CUT 4 — 2l4 inch squares. 3 — 3 inches by l}i in. X inch above the bud. Hold these to the winding wire and trim away the bulk (Art. VII. Figs. 1. 2). SILVER PETALS (1) Cut two pieces of spool wire the length of the edge of the wires on the petals or about 8 inches; (2) wrap this wire with gray embroid- ery floss; (3) shape it like the petal; (4) cut a piece of silver net about 6 inches deep and bring it over the wire on the bias; (5) gather at the base; (6) hold in place with winding wire (Art. XV, Figs. 1. 2, 3, 4), One petal is left to be arranged among the smaller petals. The other petal fold double and twist (Fig. 5). This unfurled petal we place on the stem with pep and stamens and secure to stem wire with winding wire. Arrange it so that it curves over the center of the poppy or rose. Place the four silk petals and one silver one around the center, secur- ing one at a time with the winding wire. Cut away the ends of fine wire to taper off nicely. Then set on the five larger petals having the base exactly even with the base of the small petals. Hold in place with wind- V ing wire, securing one at a time, ^i Trim oft' the wires. CALYX OR SPRAY Make and glue to the base of the rose as you did in the pond lily (Art. XI). STEM Wrap with a % inch strip of sheet wadding then cover with gray embroidery floss. This flower makes a very attractive trimming for an evening dress. Sometimes the large rose may have several long streamers of silver rib- bon fluttering from its base. Sometimes one may add large buds to the ends of the streamers and then again one may include some small 4 petal flowers along the ribbon. Art. x\', Figs. i. 27] Pansy Article XVI CUT 2 side petals. 2 back petals. 1 bottom petal. 1 HE flowers described in Article XV and Article XVI differ from the others in that there is a white wire glued in the edge. Obtain the pattern by tracing diagrams 6, 7, 8, Plate II. Cut petals on bias of the silk and proceed to glue wire in edge in same manner as described in (Article XV) and in (Fig. 1,2, Art. XVI). If you have no commercial pep for pansy make a little bud of IV2 inch square of silk and silk fibre its stem (Art. XVI, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7). Bend the bud up and at right angles to the stem. Have flat of bud fac- ing you. Show V4 inch of silked stem. TO ASSEMBLE PANSY : (1) Secure bottom petal to center first. Crush edges to remove stift- ness ; (2) set on first one and then the other side petal. Take care to Art. X\I, Figs. 4, 5, .Ml. .\ > 1, i iss- ^; -'< ^y ' ■ have high side uppermost; (3) then set in place the two back pet- nign siue uppciiiiubt, yo 1 set in place the two back pet- als, one at a time; (4) cut away all but one wire and wrap stem with silk; (5) use commercial pansy leaves. Art. XVI, Figs. 1, 2, 3. Organdy Flowers Organdy flowers arc perhaps the most dainty of all the hand made flowers, it is always well to use the best quality of organdy because it [28 1 holds its shape and is always nice in color. A combination of a light and dark shade is effective. Organdy flowers are made more interesting by touching the edges and center with a little transparent water color paint. This is done after the flower is finished. It is always best to cut the organdy on the bias; it rolls better and is shaped more easily. So before anyone does any pattern cutting the top edge of the organdy must be rolled between the thumb and fingers. If rolled tightly the raw edge will not show and the rolled edge will keep its shape. It is im- ^ ^.^^ ^ portant to know that fine winding wire makes '^ the best and most flexible stems for organdy flowers. Art. XVII, Figs. 1. 2, 3. Art. X\II, Figs. 4. 5 Organdy Sweet Peas Article XVII .3 PETALS 1 — 1 inch by 2 inches. 1 — XYz inches by 3 inches. 1 — 1^4 inches by 4 inches. JThe largest majority of flow- ers in this bunch are sweet peas. But there is a small rose and an apple blossom. To make sweet peas cut the de- sired lengths from a rolled bias piece of organdy. To make the small petal: (1) fold the smallest piece of oroandv double and slather across the base with a needle and thread ; ,^" •i T ■ \ ^3^%. 1^ -.^: '•«► ^^ \. g r r ifL^J a. 'S ^ E^i 29] (2) draw up tightly and sew it to a piece of wire (Art. XVII, Fig. 6, 7). The second petal is gathered as in the diagram (Art. XVII, Figs. 4 or 8). Place the first made petal (Fig. 7) in the cen- ter of the second made petal (Fig. 9 ) and draw the thread tightly and sew. Shape the petals by giving them a pinch to the top center. Always have the rolled edge toward you in making a petal. The third is made as the second, but flattened and not pinched. Buds are made as the berry was made in (Art. II. Figs. 1, 2, 3) three berries are grouped together and the centers of each are touched up with transparent "water color. •^'■'- ^'^^^' The Organdy Apple Blossom The apple blossom is made of a strip of organdy 1 inch wide and 10 inches long after rolling edge (Art. XVII, Fig. 1). Measure 2 inches along the rolled edge and pin a pin, measure 2 inches more and 2 inches more until you have placed four pins. Gather with needle and thread from the top edge to the base and then up to the pin at top edge as given in diagram (Art. XXI, Figs. 1, 2). Have the thread strong enough to stand the strain of pulling up when the five petals are made. Draw pet- als up together and finish them ofif at the back with a few stitches. Make a stem by forming a loop in the end of a winding wire and fasten it to the back of the finished flower. A few stamens can be sewed in the center or a few French knots may be made and filled into the center. The Simple Organdy Rose This rose is started with a swirl about 1 inch deep and 2 inches long (Art. XVII, Figs. 1, 2, 3). With a needle and thread gather the raw and unrolled edge of the bias strip of organdy. By puckering on the thread one can gauge the flare of the rolled edge. Secure with winding wire. Three petals may be placed around this center. Make petals on the same prin- ciples as petals 2 and 3 of the sweet peas (Art. XVTI. Fig. 4). The stems are cov- ered with 54 inch strips of green organdy cut on the bias. Turn in one edge ^ inch and start at the base of the flower. Fasten the end of the strip to the flower with a stitch or two and wrap stem. You can use the winding fibre or rubberized tape if you Art. XVII, Figs. S, 9. wish. 30 Organdy Morning Glory Article XVIII In Article XVII the flower has a rolled edge. The edges of the flowers in this bunch are made interesting by having the organdy edge picoted in a contrasting color. A piece of organdy may be hemstitched on the straight into strips 1>4 inches wide. For the flowers cut the hemstitching so that the organdy strips will have a picot edge. Then cut into five inch strips. Join the ends in a French seam. Gather this small organdy tube at the base and run a gathering stitch about 3^ inch from the top edge. Take about six or eight threads of stamens and wind together with 8 inches of winding © (^ wire. Bring heads up through the tube and tighten gathering strings (Art. XVIlf, Figs. 1,2, 3. 4). LEAF The leaves are made of three cor- nered pieces which have been picoted around the edge. Trace diagram 15 on Plate I. Gather the triangle at the base with needle and thread and sew fine wire in for stem. Wrap stems with tape. Art. XVIII, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4. Art. XVIII, Figs. 5, 6. [31] a'/. \ ^ .^- ^' V < t { 1 s Metal-Cloth Rose Article XIX CUT 5 petals 2 inches by 3 inches. 5 petals 2Y2 inches by 4 inches. 2 — 2 inch squares for buds. 2 — 3 inch squares for leaves. 2 — 31^ inch squares for leaves. 1 — 11/2 inches by 1 inch for spray for bud. Xhis rose and cluster of grapes are made of a metal cloth. This cloth comes in hoth silver and gold. Either would be pretty made up in this group. The sta- mens should be either gold or sil- ver as the cloth. This style of rose is suitable for an evening- dress ornament. Cut the required number of pieces for petals, having the material on the bias. The leaves are cut on the straight. Roll the top edge of the pieces so the small petal will measure I3/2 inches by 3 inches and the larger petals 2 inches by 4 inches. Make and assemble petals as in (Art. XX, Figs. 4, 5, 6). LEAVES See (Art. II, Figs. 4, 5,6, 7, 8). BERRIES Are made on large commercial molds. These molds are made in all sizes. Do not zvct the metal cloth to work it up. Proceed to make the berries in somewhat the same manner as in Article II if you cannot obtain the commercial molds. BUDS See (Article XI, Figs. 2, 3, 4, 5). CALYX OR SPRA^' Fold the piece of cloth double and wrap around the bud. Bring ends down on stem wire and hold with winding wire. A circle 1 inch in dia- meter forms the spray in back of the rose. [321 Gingham Rose and Small Flowers Article XX Cj INGHAM flowers are most effect- ive when made of gingham with the smallest size check. In this group of flowers we have a rose and a small flower. The leaves are made of the green check gingham but the jjlain green gingham or other cotton cloth might be used. Sometimes commercial foliage adds a note of realism. When worn with a gingham dress or hat of the same material they are very smart. FOR THE ROSE. CUT 2 — 2^ inches by 1^^ inches on bias for petals. 2 — 2y2 inches bj- 2 inches on bias for petals. ' ' 1 1 — ZYz inches by 2j/^ inches on bias for petals. : ■' 1 circle XYz inches in diameter for center. The circle is to be shirred and made into the foundation upon which the petals are secured. Run a gathering string in y^ inch from the edge. Draw it up and finish with two or three stitches. This foundation is Rose. That one is stuffed with cotton while the one for the gingham rose is unstuff'ed. Cut a tie wire 4 inches long, turn one end back to form a loop and twist several times to hold. Sew this to the gathered part of the foundation. Place a very few stamens at the base of , y \^tv^,^,.^2 ' the foundation and sew in place (Art. ^^»<=^j>^^ l/^S' XX. Figs. 1, 2. 3). "7 1/ I Art. XX. Figs. 1, 2, 3. TO MAKE PETALS OF THE ROSE Roll the top bias edge of the petal with the thumb and fingers as you do in making the organdy flowers. The gingham, however, does not stay in roll as readily as the organdy. So one must gather the petal at the base and finish by securing it in place (Art. XXIX, Figs. 4, 5). Before going on to make another petal. Start to gather at the top edge and gather to the base and up to the top on the other side of the petal (Art. XVI, Fig. 4). Draw thread slightly to give the petals shape. Sew the first petal to the stamens and have it cover half of the center founda- [33] tion. Roll and gather the second and place it directly opposite to first. The petals for the second row are rolled and gathered in the same way. There being three, each one overlaps the other one when they are set on to the rose. THE CALYX Is made exactly as the one described in Article XI. The edges may be turned in and slip-stitched down to the back of the rose. SMALL FLOWER Cut 5-1 J/2 inch squares on the straight of the goods. Cut 5 pieces of wire 3 inches long. Take a small amount of stamens from a bundle. Twist the tie wire around the center of the stamens and proceed as in (Art. XXIII, Figs. 2, 3, 4). Fold the gingham for petals diagonally. Then fold once more. This gives you one open edge (Art. II, Figs. 4, 5, 6). Gather at base with needle and thread and sew securely. To this sew a piece of tie wire. After you have made the five petals, assemble them around the stamens. Place one at a time and secure with winding wire. Cover stems with white embroiderv cotton. GINGHAM LEAF Material for the leaves is cut 2 inches square. The leaves are folded the same as the petal for the small flower. Sometimes we fold the square diagonally and then bring each folded edge into the center. This gives the opening in the center" instead of at one side. Gather with needle and thread from the end of the right side to the left. The wire for stem may be sewed on before the leaf is gath- ered (Art. XVI, Figs. 4, 5, 6). Art. XX, Figs. 4, 5, 6. [34] Large Rose Article XXI 1 HIS flower is made of a long piece of silic, change- able in color. The edge is picoted. It is very simple to make and very effective. Any strip of silk 27 inches long can be hemstit- ched into 3 inch widths and used to good advantage. To make the picot edge one cuts the strips apart along the hemstitching. Follow the diagram accompanying this article. See Figs. 1 and 2. With needle and thread gather both ends and one side of the silk. Ar- range a small bunch of stamens as the center. Draw up thread to form a swirl about this center of stamens. Turn edges back to give the flower a soft irregular finish. The flower measures 3j/< inches across the center when finished. This flower is a very satisfac- tory finish at the waist line for an evening dress. LEAVES Are made of green silk 4>^ inches long and Ij^ inches wide. Have the silk hemstitched as for leaves in (Art. XXII, Fig. 1). Have them taper to a point both top and bottom. Cover stem with sheet wadding and wrap with fibre. Art. XXI, Figs, 1, 2, 3. 35 Star Flower Article XXII Place a tissue paper over diagrams 17, 18, 19, Plate IV and trace. Trace the largest petal pattern (17) on a piece of cardboard and cut a pat- tern. Place this card pattern on silk with length of the pat- tern lying parallel to the grain of the silk. Mark silk and have it hemstitched on the line of the pattern. One needs 18 triangular pieces when the hemstitching is cut. Place the patterns of petals 18 and 19 on the triangles of silk and cut 6 of each. The petals are formed by bringing the right hand corner B over to the left hand corner A and gathering at base with a running stitch. (Do not press on the folded edge with the fingers) ( Art. XXII, Fig. 5). Cut a piece of fine wire 3 inches long. Turn an end back ^^ inch to form a loop through which to sew. Wrap each stem with rubberized tape about 1/2 inch from the base of the petal. CENTER One has a great range of choice in stamens. The flower is very pretty when stamens are the same shade as the silk. Sometimes a contrasting color is efifective. And when nothing better is at hand the common yel- low stamens may be used. Remove the wire from a bundle of stamens and take 12 or 15 strands away. Carefully replace the winding wire about the other stamens and put them away for another time. Proceed to wrap a stem wire about the ones you want to use in this flower (Art. XXII, Figs. 2, 3, 4). Bring both ends pointing down and twist securely at the l)ase. Then l)end the heads up to cover the wire you have placed al)out the center. ASSEMBLE By placing the six smallest petals about the stamens. Arrange the next six to come between each of the first, and the last or largest size to come between each of the second row or just back of the one on the first row. Place the petals back of the stamens so ^ inch of the rubber stem of the petals will show. Hold all petals with winding wire. Cut the five wires olf at an angle up the stem. I 36 1 BUDS In making buds one may use any small piece left from the picoted material. These pieces may be twisted to suit oneself. LEAVES See (Art. XVIII, Figs. 5, 6). STEMS Can be wrapped with the rubberized tape as are the base of the petals. They may also be wrapped with winding fibre. When using winding fibre finish end with a little touch of glue. A thin covering of sheet wadding over the stem wire makes the stem a better size. /\lways arrange the foliage and buds to extend just beyond the flower. Art. XXII, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Silk Poppy Article XXIII Place a tis- sue paper over diagram 11, 12, 13, Plate III and trace. This flower can be made of silk or rib- bon. Place the pattern on the silk or ribbon having the crosswise thread running from top of pattern to the bottom as in Star Flower (Art. XXII). Mark around each one leaving a space of ^4 inch between the petals, and then have the silk hemstitched on the petal lines. Have 5 petals of each size. THE CENTER Of the flower is made of a contrasting color of silk. A gray or changeable is very pretty and most nearly like the center in a real poppy. ( 1 ) Cut a strip of silk 2 inches wide and 8 inches long; (2) join the two [37 1 ends with a running stitch; (3) fold lengthwise and form a tuck j4 i"ch deep; (4) and gather fold with a thread of twist; (5) turn wrong side out and put a gathering thread at the top edge; (6) draw up tightly and hold with 3 or 4 stitches (Art. XXIII, Figs. 1, 2, 3) ; (7) take a piece of cotton about the size of a cherry; (8) wrap the fine wire stem around the cotton; (9) twist wire at base; (10) cut ofif the short end; (11) gather around the base of the silk; (12) draw up to form a cup; (13) place cotton inside and draw the thread at the base and finish with a few stitches; (14) draw the thread tightly which forms the tuck. Set aside two of the smallest petals and one of the second size to be used for buds. Run a gathering thread at the base of each petal (Art. XXIII, Fig. 6). Be careful to have a knot at each end of the thread. x,,. xxiii. Figs. i. 2. 3 TO ASSEMBLE: Set on the three small petals first, sew each one to the ball center. Allow the edge of one to overlap the other. Sew the second size around the first three in the same manner and the last five around the preced- ing four. BUDS 'Fold the two small petals together and catch at the base with a few stitches. Secure it to a fine stem wire. Make the second bud by folding the one petal and sewing it to a wire stem. STEM AND SPRAY Each stem mav be wrapped with a commercial chenille stem. If such stem is not available any stem resembling a poppy stem may be used. A small circle of silk }^ inch in diameter may be sewed to the base of the poppy to form spray. About 2 inches below the base of the poppy place a few leaves. In the illustration commercial foliage has been used. This is a verv attractive flower to be worn on a chiffon or georgette dress. 38 Small Dahlia Artice XXIV CUT 20 petals IJ4 by 1>2 inches. 1 HIS flower is most beautiful when made of a changeable silk that has one side picoted. It could also be made from a few inches less than a yard of 3^'S inch picot ribbon. Cut 20 pieces 1^ inches long. Fold in a triangular shape having the picot edge meet in the center of the petal (Art. XXIV, Figs. 1. 2, 3). Form a small loop in the end of a winding wire and sew it to the gathered base of the petal. Wind stem of each petal about 1 inch with silk fibre. CENTER Use about a quarter bunch of stamens and in the center of this place a small pep to give the fiower more interest. TO ASSEMBLE: Set on the ten petals close to the stamens with the base of the petal almost even with the heads of the stamens. Secure one petal at a time. Trim away the fine wires to taper ofif nicely up the stem before setting on the second row of petals. The second row is placed so that they ex- tend about 14 i"ch beyond the first row. Wire and trim off as you did on the first wires. Cover the stem with a piece of sheet wadding and wind with silk fibre. Place a bit of foliage on each side of the flower, fasten with a piece of winding wire and cut away the ends. Cover the entire 3 inches of stem with winding fibre. Tape could be used all through the flower instead of fibre. Art. XXIV, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4. [39 Boudoir Flowers Article XXV Xhe flowers and foliage in this clus- ter of flowers are made of shaded ]:)icot ribbon. The rose is made of satin and chift'on. Some of the flowers are made with dark part of the ribbon to the cen- ter and some are made with the shades just reversed. The stems are of fine wire wrapped with winding silk. The stems of boudoir flowers are made of green cord or braid when the flowers are used on garments. When they are used for a decoration on a lampshade, candle shade or fancy box they can be arranged more artistically by having the wire stems. ROSE The center of the rose is made of a circle of chiffon 2 inches in dia- meter. Turn edge in Yx inch and gather around. Draw up and finish with 2 or 3 tight stitches. The two petals which form the sides of the roses are made of 2 inch squares of satin. Fold diagonally, gather from top right hand corner B to the base C and up to the left hand corner A. Do not draw enough to bring all of the fullness together, but enough to form a hood. Place the chiffon center inside the satin hood and fasten there. The second petal is made in the same way and placed exactly opposite the first petal. The third petal is larger, fold and gather as the other two and place across the rose. Have one end start at the center of the first petal and the other end to finish at the center back of the second petal (Art. XXIX. Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5). Art. XX\', Figs. 1, LEAVES The leaves are made of y'l inch green shaded picot ribbon. Cut a piece 2 inches long, fold double with the dark shade at top edge. ( either along- the doubled edge, starting at the folded end. Draw the thread slightly to form the gathers for center of leaf. The leaf when finished will be j/j inch long. Gather in at the base and sew to a loop in a fine wire. [40] Art. XXV, Figs. 6, 7. To make your group interesting" make ditterent size leaves (Art. XXX, Figs. 5, 6, 7). FIVE ROUXD PETAL FLOWER The two round petal flowers are made of ^4 i^i'^l^ shaded picot ribbon. Cut ribbon 6 inches long, measure 1% inches from end and place a pin. Oo this until 4 pins have been placed, thus 5 petals will be measured off. Gather from the top right hand end to form the petals, follov/ diagram (Art. XXV, Figs. 1.2). Run the needle to the bottom of the ribbon, then across the base to just below the pin and up to the pin. Continue with the others in the same way and draw the gathering thread. This will form the pet- als. Bring the two ends of the ribbon to- gether and hold with 3 or 4 tight stitches. Sew a tine wire to the center back ; form a loop at the end to hold the stitches. 5 or 6 heads of stamens or French knots are sewed in the center. Wrap stem with winding silk. TWO ROUND FLOW^ERS The two round flowers are made of I/2 inch picot ribbon, 7 inches long. Turn in one end of ribbon and run a gathering thread along one edge and draw up tightly as you roll and shape the flower into a swirl (Art. XXI, Figs. 3, 4). Take two or three tight stitches to sew the swirl in place as you go. This is rather full and does not need the sta- mens for center. Form loop in end of a wire and sew to center back of flower. FIVE POINTED PETAL FLOWER This flower is made of ^ inch shaded picot ribbon. Each petal is made separately. Cut 1 inch pieces of ribbon for each petal. Take the right hand upper corner of ribbon and bring to the center of base. Take the left upper corner ® /^ and bring it down to meet other in center of I •— -- base. Gather across the bottom and draw up to shape. Finish ofl:' with two or three tight U stitches. After the five petals are made, as- semble the petals to form the flower, sewing one at a time. Sew a fine wire at center back. Five or six heads of stamens may be sewed in the center or French knots of embroidery silk may be used. Art. XXV, Figs. 41 # ^•/ Mm- ^. "T-*. Boudoir Flowers Article XXVI flower consist of y2 yard of a dark Materials for this 1/2 yard of a light and shade of ^-^ inch picot ribbon. The inside petals may be dark and the outside hght or the shades may be reversed. Cut rib- bon into 2 inch lengths. Gather with needle and thread from the top edge down one side, across the bottom and up the other side. Draw the thread to form the petal. Take a few heads of stamens and wrap with a fine winding wire (Art. XXVI, Figs. 1, 2, 3). Place one of the dark petals around the stamens and the second dark petal around the first petal. The three outside petals are of the light shade. Gather the light petals in the same way and sew on, having each one overlap the preceding one a half. The stems are covered with a thin covering of sheet wadding' before wrapping silk fibre. Take one dark petal for the bud and place it around a few stamens. For the second bud take two petals of the light shade and sew them together, overlap- ping the edges of one with the other as Q in the flower. Wrap stem with fibre. LEAVES Cut 3 three-inch pieces of ribbon, fold each piece double. Have the dark edges together. Gather from the folded end with a needle and thread along the dark edge. Form gathers and make the leaf }i inch long. Secure at base with 3 or 4 tight stitches. Wrap a fine wire about the base. Cover stem with fibre. An. xxvi. Figs, i, 2, 3. Boudoir Flowers Article XXVII T^UE flowers in this bunch are made t)f a double faced satin ribbon, picot edge. The edge has been further fin- ished by embroidering it with a fine chenille in a contrasting color. The stitch used in the edge is called the "Blanket Stitch." Hold the edge of 42] the ribbon toward you and work from the left hand end to the right. Place the threaded needle % inch from the edge of the ribbon and take a stitch (Art. XXVII, Figs. 1, 2). Continue along the edge and across one end. Gather along the other edge and draw thread up. Do not break the thread until you have finished the flower. Arrange in a rosette, slant at the center to obtain a swirl. Sew as you shape it, keeping it rather flat. If well shaped you will have about two layers around the center. LEAF See (Art. II, Figs. 4. 5, 6, 7, 8). Sew the ends in the leaves for this flower and fasten them with wire. Art. XXVII, Figs. 1, 2, 3. This makes a very good decoration for a boudoir pillow or basket. It is easily handled if sewed to a small foundation. A circle of crinoline 2 inches in diameter covered with silk makes a good foundation upon which to sew the trimming. Arrange artistically where placed and sew to place through the foundaton only. Apple Ornament Article XXVIII 1 HIS ornament is made of silk, velvet, duvetyn, or any material which would har- monize with the hat you wish to put it on. Many of our most eft'ective trimmings are made of the same material as the hat. Take only a quarter part of a bunch of commercial stamens and add a pep to the center. Hold the pep in place with a piece of winding wire around the pep and stamens (Art. VII, Figs. 1,2). The ornament is made from a circle 5 inches in diameter. Place a thimble on the center and mark around it. Run a gathering thread on this line (Art. XXVIII, Fig. 1). Snip area in the center of circle and pull the stem wire through, leaving the stamens to stand up and out from the silk but bringing the pep flat on the silk (Fig. 2). Draw the gathering string to form the fullness at the base of the stamens. When the ornament is made of silk turn in y^ 43] inch and gather the base. If velvet and hke material is used do not turn in the base before gathering". Fill this covering with cotton and draw up close on back (Fig. 3). Finish ofif by bringing the needle up through the center close to the stamens. These stitches will help to make it flat rather than round. To finish add a few leaves taken from a bunch of com- mercial foliage. Use a commercial stem about 3 inches long. Stem may be wrapped with winding silk. Art. XXVIII. Figs. 1, 2, 3. French Rose Sachet Article XXIX CUT 1 circle 2^ inches in diameter. 2 — 23^ inch squares for petals. 3 — 3 inch squares. The center or foundation of this flower is made from the circle. Make this of satin. Turn edge in y^, inch and gather with a needle and thread. Draw up slightly to form cup for sachet and cotton. Sprinkle the sachet in next to the satin and then put in the cotton. Use enough cotton to form a pad or l)utton about ^4 in^^li