jy .ills *> <$v *-»o" s v **%. & xs .-mk-. w -•»»• %<** 5 0- » ■ ■ ■ «*» ^ »« 5 *A^ 0* o---V .* v ^ v Prt # .' >^ V ^o S6\^/ /i^« V^ .•a6\°^/' 4 y^tfir.^ **.^X y.-iik-.V it ^>^ • ^ ^ r oK a^a * -afc* y* ~o*^~*>° ^*i^\^ °o.V^.'xO° v*. V^> v^V v^V "v 1 £•- **~* : •Vi* .v* ;-><* K THE KEDGE-ANCHOR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. APPERTAINING TO THE PRACTICAL EVOLUTIONS OF MODERN SEAMANSHIP, RIGGING, KNOTTING, SPLICING, BLOCKS, PURCHASES, RUNNING- RIGGING, AND OTHER MISCELLANEOUS MATTERS, APPLI- CABLE TO SHIPS OF WAR AND OTHERS. JlhtstraUir tmtl) Sromtg <£ngratriwj0. TABLES OP RIGGING, SPARS, SAILS, BLOCKS, CANVASS, CORDAGE, CHAIN AND HEMP CABLES, HAWSERS, &c, &a, RELATIVE TO EVERY CLASS OF VESSELS. BY WILLIAM BRADY, SAILING MASTER, U. S. N. n — SIXTH EDITION. IMPROVED AND ENLARGED, WITH ADDITIONAL MATTER, PLATES, AND TABLES. •N/>^%, ^VWW- NEW YORK : PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. BOLD AT R. L. SHAW's NAUTICAL STORE, NO. 222 WATER ST., AND THE PRINCIPAL NAUTICAL AND STATIONERS' STORES THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES. 1852. Entered according to the Act of Congress, in the year 1847, By WILLIAM BRADY, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District of New Yoru DEDICATED TO THE UNITED STATES' NAVY AND MERCHANT SERVICE. PREFACE. In offering the following work to the public, the author deems no apology necessary, as it was written for the use of the Naval and Mer- chant Service of the United States, as a ready means of introducing Young Sailors to the theory of that art by which they must expect to advance in the profession they have chosen. He natters himself, how- ever, that it will be found useful to many old and experienced seamen, as well as to those who have just entered the sailors' life, and particu- larly to those destined for the Navy. Should it fall into the hands of the learned, they will bear in mind that he is better versed with the marlinespike than the pen, and that it was composed in the hours of relaxation from official duties. He therefore hopes that it may be received for that which it is intended to be, A Kedge- Anchor, for the youthful sailor. The work has been submitted to the inspection of a number of experienced officers, both in the Navy and Merchant Ser- vice, who have given it their decided approbation ; — some of whose names are appended to the work. With these few remarks, he submits it to a discerning public, to stand or fall on its own merits. RECOMMENDATIONS. 1 have examined the manuscript of Mr. Brady and approve of it, as a very useful Book for young officers and others, in the Naval and Merchant service. JOHN GALLAGHER, Captain U. S. Navy. 1 fully concur in the above. E. PECK, Commander U. S. Navy. I have examined the within treatise on Seamanship, and other mis- cellaneous matter appertaining to ships and vessels of war (written by William Brady, Master U. S. Navy). It affords me much pleasure to recommend the same to the junior officers of the Navy, and others who may be disposed to learn the profession of Seamanship. TV. C. WETMORE, Commander U. S. Navy. Examined and approved as a work that will be useful to the Service. J. D. L. SAUNDERS, Commander U. S. Navy. J. MATTISON, Commander U. S. Navy. This I conceive to be a valuable work, and well calculated to be use- ful to the Service. JOSHUA R. SANDS, Commander U. S. Navy. I have closely examined the within work, and think it well calcu- lated for the instruction of young officers and others in the Navy. JAMES RENSHAW, Captain U. S. Navy. I fully concur in the above. FRANCIS 0. ELLISON, Master U. S. Navy. 8 RECOMMENDATIONS. I have carefully examined the within work on Seamanship, and think it one well calculated for the instruction of young officers, and others. C. G-. HUNTER, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. We cheerfully recommend this work of William Brady, S. Master U. S. Navy, to the maritime community, and think it well calculated for the instruction of all who may be disposed to learn the profession of Seamanship. ISAAC McKEEVER, Captain U. S. Navy. JAMES McINTOSH, Commander U. S. Navy. WILLIAM L. HUDSON, " " HENRY EAGLE, A. G. GORDON, Lieutenant U. S. Navy. CADWALDER RINGGOLD, " " WILLIAM F. LYNCH, HENRY W. MORRIS, FRANCIS B. ELLISON, JAMES H. ROWAN, JOHN COLHOUN, T. TURNER, T. A. HUNT, HENRY MOORE, JOHN J. GLASSON, CHARLES HEYWOOD, CHARLES S. BOGGS, ALEXANDER GIBSON, ALEXANDER M. PENNOCK, MONTGOMERY HUNT, FRANCIS HAGGERTY, J. R. McMULLANY, Capt. HENRY D. HUNTER, Commanding U. S. Rev. Steamer Polk. JOHN McGOWAN, 1st Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. WILLIAM H. BROWN, Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. JOSEPH C. NOYES, Lieutenant U. S. Rev. Marine. Capt. E. RICHARDSON, President American Seamen Friend Society. " AUGUSTUS PROAL, Reviewer of the Work. Capt. SAMUEL YEATON, Commanding Packet ship Oxford. " D. G. BAILEY, " " Yorkshire. " GEORGE B. CORNISH, " " Sheridan. " E. G. FURBER, « '< Europe. " A. B. LOWBER, " " Montezuma. " J. A. WOTTEN, " " Admiral. " JOSEPH HAMILTON, Commanding Packet ship So. Carolina. ' CHARLES R. GRIFFITH, Commanding Ship Southport. " JAMES RENNE, " " Gondola. " IRA BURSLEY, " « Hottenger. " GEORGE W. HOWE, Commanding Packet ship Bavaria. CONTENTS. PART L Number. Page. 1. To knot a Rope-Yarn, - - 21 2. To make a Fox, 21 3. To make a Spanish Fox, --------21 4. To make a Knittle, 22 5. Overhanded Knot, ---------22 6. Figure of Eight-Knot, 22 7. Two Half-Hitches, - 22 8. Reef or Square Knot, 22 9. A Bowline Knot, -.. 22 10. Bowline on the Bight, ----23 11. A Running Bowline, ---------23 12. A Timber-Hitch, 23 13. A Fisherman's Bend, 23 14. A Rolling Bend, 23 15. A Carrick Bend, ---------23 16. A Cat's-Paw, 24 17. A Sheet or Becket Bend, 24 18. A Black- Wall Hitch, 24 19. A Rolling Hitch, 25 20. A Salvagee Strap, 25 21. A Pudding for a Mast or Yard, 25 22. A Short Splice, 25 23. A Long Splice, 26 24. An Eye Splice, 26 25. A Cut Splice, 27 26. A Flemish Eye, 27 27. An Artificial Eye, 27 28. To worm and serve a Rope, -------27 29. To clap on a Throat and Quarter Seizing, - - - - 28 30. To make a Turk's Head, 28 31. To Sheepshank a Rope or Backstay, ------ 29 32. To put a Strand in a Rope, -------29 33. To Wall and Crown, 29 34. To make a Mathew Walker, - - - - - - -29 35. A Spritsail Sheet Knot, 30 36. A Shroud-Knot, 30 37. A French Shroud Knot, - -30 38. A single Diamond Knot, - - - - - - - -30 39. A double Diamond Knot, - - -- - - - -31 40. A Stopper Knot 31 10 CONTENTS. Number. Page. 41. A Buoy-rope Knot, --------- 31 42. A Common Sennit, ---------31 43. A Sea Gasket, 31 44. A Panch or Wrought Mat, ------- 32 45. A Harbor Gasket or French Sennit, ----- 32 46. Pointing a Rope, ---------32 47. To make a Grommet, --------- -33 48. To pass a Rose-Lashing, - - - -- - - -33 49. To weave a Sword Mat, 33 50. A Lashing Cleat, ---------34 51. A Shell, Pin and Sheave, ---34 52. A Single, Double and Treble Block, ------ 34 53. A Shoulder Block, - - -34 54. A Fiddle Block, - 35 55. A Shoe Block, -35 56. A Sister Block, ---- 35 57. A Dead-Eye, 35 58. A Heart, ----36 59. A Belaying-pin Rack, - - - - - - - -36 60. A Euphroe, -36 61. A Horn Cleat, - - - - 36 62. A B-Cleat, - - - - - - - ' - - - -36 63. A Strap for a Block, - - 36 64. A Tail Block, - - - - - - - - - -37 65. A Purchase Block, _ _ _ _ 37 66. A Top Block, - - 37 67. A Cat Block, - - - - - 38 68. A Snatch Block, -38 69. A Nun Buoy, -- 38 70. To bend a Buoy-Rope, , - - -38 71. To Pudding the Ring of an Anchor, 39 72. A Jacob's Ladder, - - - - - - - --39 73. Can-Hooks, - 40 74. Hogshead Slings, - - - - - - - - -40 75. Barrel Slings. - - 40 76. A Single Whip, ---_ 40 77. A Gun-Tackle Purchase, 41 78. A Luff-Tackle Purchase, 41 79. A Top Burton, - ----41 80. Whip and Runner, --- -----41 81. Runner and Tackle, ---------41 82. A Twofold Purchase, 41 83. A Threefold Purchase, --------42 84. Names of Ropes, ---------42 PART II. 85. Launching a Ship, - - - - - - - - -13 86. Cutting out Standing Rigging, -------44 87. " " Topmast and Top-gallant Rigging, - - - - 45 88. " ' : Breast and Standing Back-stays, - - - - 45 89. " " Catharpen Legs and Futtock Shrouds, - 46 90. " " Fore and Aft Stays, 46 91. " " Lower Mast Head Pendants, 46 92. « " Bobstays, - - 46 CONTENTS. 11 Number. Page. 93. Cutting out Bowsprit Shrouds, -------47 94. " " Jib and Flying Jib Guys, 47 95. " " Running Rigging, -------47 96. Rigging Shears and taking in Masts and Bowsprit, - 47 97. To take in the Mizen Mast, 50 98. " " Main and Foremast, - - - - - -51 99. " « Bowsprit, 51 100. Gammoning the Bowsprit, - - - . - - - - -52 101. Fitting Rigging, ----53 102. " Mast-head Pendants, -------54 103. " Lower and Topmast Stays, 54 104. To Rig the Foremast, 55 105. Futtock Shrouds, - 57 106. To Rig the Main and Mizen Mast, 58 107. " « " Bowsprit, 58 108. Getting Tops over (whole Tops,) - - - . - - - 59 109. " Half-tops over, 60 110. " up Top-blocks, 61 111. « " Top-masts, - - 61 112. " the Cap into the Top, 62 113. Turning in Dead-eyes, --------63 114. Getting Topmast Cross-trees over, ------ 64 115. Placing Topmast Rigging, ------- 65 116. To seize-in the Sister Blocks, ------- 65 117. Backstays (Breast), ---------66 118. Standing After Backstays, --------67 119. Main Topmast Stay, -' 67 120. Mizen ".., « - .- - 67 121. Getting the Topmast Caps on, - - - - - - - 68 122.. Mast-head Man-ropes. &c, &c, -------68 123. Top-Tackle Pendants^ - - 69 124. Preparing to Fid the Topmasts, - - - -.- - -69 125. Rattling the Lower and Topmast Rigging, - - - - 70 126. Futtock Staves in Topmast Rigging, ------ 71 127. To Rig the Jib-Boom, - - 71 128. Jib-Boom Martingale Stay, 72 129. Jib-Boom Guys, - - - - - 72 130. Martingale Back-ropes, -- 73 131. Placing the Ringing on a Dolphin Striker, - - - - 73 132. Getting the Jib-Boom out, 73 133. Sending up Topgallant Masts, - - - - - - - 74 134. Royal Rigging, ----------75 135. Short and Long Topgallant Mast Ropes, ----- 76 136. To Rig the Flying Jib-Boom, - 76 137. Spritsail Lifts, - - - 77 138. Spritsail Braces, ----------77 139. Strapping Thimbles for Guys on Spritsail yard, - - - 77 140. Crossing a Spritsail Yard, -------- 78 141. Two Half-spritsail Yards, - 78 142. Whiskers, - - - 79 143. To get on board and rig Lower Yards, ----- 79 144. Truss Straps, 80 145. Truss Pendants, 80 146. Quarter Blocks — Lower Yards, -------80 147. Clew Garnet Blocks, --------- 81 148. Lift Blocks— Lower Yards, 81 149. Foot Ropes and Stirrups, --------81 150. Jack Stays— Bending and Reefing, 82 12 CONTENTS. Number. Page. 151. Brace Blocks— Lower Yards, 82 152. Placing the Rigging on Lower yards, ----- 83 153. Getting up Jeer Blocks and Reeving Jeers, 84 154. Lower Lift Blocks. --84 155. Reeving Lower Lifts, --------85 156. Main Braces, on Bumkin, &c, -------85 157. Fore Braces, ----------85 158. Crossing the Lower Yards, -------86 159. To get on board the Topsail Yards, 86 160. Rigging Topsail Yards, Fore and Main, ----- 86 161. The Mizen-Topsail Yard, - - - - - - - 88 162. Placing the Rigging on Topsail Yards, - - - - 88 163. Crossing the Topsail Yards, -------88 164. Fitting Fly-Blocks for Topsail-Halliards, - - - - - 89 165. Rigging Topgallant Yards, -------90 166. Topgallant Braces, - - 91 167. Crossing Topgallant Yards, 92 168. « Royal Yards, - - - 93 169. Royal and Topgallant Gear, 94 170. Spanker-Boom, Trysail-Masts and Gaff, ----- 94 171. Spanker-Boom Sheets and Guys in one, ----- 95 172. Spanker-Boom Topping Lifts, 95 173. A Brig or Schooner's Main-Boom, 96 174. Reeving Peak-Halliards, 96 175. « Throat-Halliards, - - ■ 96 176. To Fit Single Vangs, 96 177. " « Double « 97 178. Fitting Gaffs with Cheek or Brail-Blocks, 97 179. Getting up a Gaff, - - - 97 180. Lower Studding-sail or Swinging-Booms, - - 98 181. « « « Outhaul-Blocks, &c, &c, - 99 182. Topmast Studding-sail, Span-Blocks, Halliards, &c, - - 100 183. Topgallant Studding-sail Booms, ------ 101 184. Getting Studding-sail Booms up, - 101 185. Topgallant Studding-sail Gear, ------ 102 186. Stowing Hold and Spirit Room (Ballast and Tanks), - - 103 187. « Casks, --------- 104 188. Stowage of Provisions and Naval Stores, - 104 189. Stowing Chain Cables. - - - 105 190. To get on Board and Stow the Hemp Cables, - - - 105 191. Cat-head Stoppers, - - - 106 192. Shank Painter, ----- 106 193. Fish Davit Gear, 106 194. Getting on Board and Stowing Anchors, ----- 10S 195. Bending the Cables, - 109 196. To Range and Stopper the Cables, 109 197. Stoppers, &c, - - - - 110 198.. Compressors, or Combing Stoppers, ----- 110 199. Putting on Nippers, - Ill 200. Iron Claw Stoppers, &c, - Ill 201. To Cut and Pass a Messenger, ------ 112 202. Splicing Rope Cables, 112 203. To Ship and Unship a Rudder, 113 204. Getting the Guns on Board, - 114 205. Fitting Shackle Breechings, - - - - - - -116 206. Triatic Stay, ----- 116 207. Hoisting in Spars, - - 117 208. Stowing Booms. - - 117 CONTENTS. 13 PART III. Number. Page, 209. Fore Bowlines, 119 210. Fore Topsail Cle lines, - 119 211. Topsail Buntlines, 120 212. Fore-Top Bowlines, - - - - 120 213. Main Buntlines, - 120 214. Fore Buntlines, - 12] 215. Main Bowline. ----------121 216. Top-Gallant Sheets, 121 217. Top-Gallant Clewlines, 122 218. Fore Topgallant Bowlines, 122 219. Main Topgallant Bowlines, 122 220. Mizen Topgallant Bowlines, 122 221. Topgallant Buntlines, - - - 123 222. Royal Bowlines, - 123 223. Reef-Tackles, 123 224. Leech-lines, 124 225. Slab-lines, - 124 226. Royal Clew-lines, 124 227. Fitting Tacks and Sheets, Bumkin, Gear, &c, - - - - 125 228. Yard-Tackle Tricing-lines, - 125 229. To Reeve and Toggle Royal Halliards, 125 230. Fore-Storm Staysail Gear, 126 231. Main-Staysail Gear, - - ' - 127 232. Mizen-Staysail Gear, 127 233. Topmast Staysails, &c. &c, 128 234. Setting up Rigging for a full due, ------ 129 235. Staying Masts, 130 236. Blacking Rigging, 130 237. Stationing the Crew, 131 238. Stationing the Crew at Quarters, - 132 239. Stationing the Crew for Mooring and Unmooring, - - - 133 240. Loosing and Furling, - - - - - - - -133 241. Stationing the Crew for Tacking and Veering, - - - 134 242. Getting ready to Bend Sails, - 134 243. Bending Sails, 135 244. Bending Small-sails, 136 245. Bending a Spanker, &c, -------- 137 246. Fitting Sea-Gaskets, 138 247. Fitting Harbor-Gaskets, 138 248. Bunt-Gaskets, 139 249. Hammock Girtlines, 139 250. Stopping on Hammocks, -------- 140 251. Furling or Stowing, the Bunt of a Sail, 140 252. Furling Courses, 140 253. Making up Sails, ---------- 141 254. To make up a Topmast Studding-sail, ----- 142 255. Furling Fore and Aft Sails, with cloths or covers, - - 142 256. Reefing Courses, &c, — Jackstays, ------ 143 257. Reef Earings, - 143 258. Bending Studding-sails, -------- 144 259. Preparations for leaving the Wharf, and hauling out in the Stream, 145 260. Carrying out an Anchor with a Boat, ----- 146 261. Marking the Lead-line, 146 262. Heaving the Lead, 147 263. Marking a Log-line, -------- 148 264. Getting ready for Sea, 148 265. Clear Hawse, 149 14 CONTENTS. Number. Page. 266. Weighing an Anchor with the Launch, ----- 150 267. Weighing an Anchor with a Buoy Rope, - - - - -151 268. Boating an Anchor, --------- 152 269. Taking in a Launch, -------- 152 270. Taking in Boats both sides at once, - - - - -153 PART IV. 271. Getting under-weigh, -- - - - - - - - - 154 272. When the Messenger Strands, or is likely to part, - - - 155 273. To get under-weigh, and stand before the Wind, - 156 274. To get under-weigh and back a-stern to avoid danger, - - 157 275. Getting under-weigh — a Shoal on each Beam, - - - - 157 276. Getting under-weigh in a Narrow Channel, - 158 277. Head to Wind— cast on Larboard Tack, 159 278. Windward Tide — get under-weigh and stand before the wind, 159 279. To get under-weigh, and stand out on a wind, - 160 280. Riding head to Tide — wind on the Starboard Quarter, get under-weigh on the Starboard Tack, - - - - - 161 281. Getting under-weigh — wind across the Tide, - - - - 161 282. To back and fill in a Tideway, 162 283. Driving before the Wind, 162 284. Driving broadside-to, _------- 163 285. Securing the Ship for Sea, 163 286. Stowing the Anchors for Sea, 163 287. Setting Topgallant sails — blowing fresh, ----- 164 288. Setting Courses, '- - -164 289. Setting the Spanker. 165 290. Setting the Jib, - - 165 291. Setting Lower Studding-sails, ------- 166 292. Shifting a Course at Sea, 166 293. Taking in a Course in a Gale of Wind, 167 294. Taking in a Topsail in a Gale of Wind, - - - - - 167 295. Taking in a Topgallant Sail, ------- 168 296. Taking in a Spanker, 168 297. Setting a Close-reefed Topsail, - 168 298. A Close-reefed Topsail Splits, 168 299. A Jib Splits, 169 300. Wearing a Ship under a Close-reefed Main-Topsail, and Storm-staysail, --------- 169 301. Wearing under a Main-sail, - - - - * - - - 170 302. Wearing under Bare Poles, __.---- 170 303. Cutting away the Masts, - - 170 304. Laying-to under Lower Stay-sails— Wear Ship, - - - 170 PART V. 305. Precautions for Scudding, -------- 171 306. Scudding — a Ship Broaches-to, ------ 172 307. Scudding — brought by the Lee, ------ 172 308. Heaving-to, - - 17 j2 309. Taking in a Lower Studding-sail— blowing fresh, - - - 173 310. To unbend a Topsail in a gale of wind, 174 311. Securing in a Gale, - ™ 312. Preparations for a Hurricane at Sea, - - - - 175 CONTENTS. . 15 Number. Page. 313. Preparations for a Hurricane, at Anchor, and Notes on Barometer, ---------- 175 314. The Foremast is carried away, ___--- 178 315. To Rig a Jury Mast, -------- 178 316. Accidents to Tiller in the event of losing a Mast, - 178 317. The Mainmast is carried away, ------ 179 318. The Bowsprit is carried away, ------- 179 319. A Topmast is carried away, ------- 179 320. The Jib-Boom is carried away, ------ 179 321. The Foremast is sprang near the Hounds, or Bibbs, - - 180 322. The Foremast and Bowsprit are carried away, - 180 323. The Bowsprit is Sprang, --------180 324. A Topmast is Sprang near the Lower Cap, - - - - 181 325. To send aloft a Topmast, and a heavy Sea on, - - - 181 326. The Gammoning carried away, ------ 181 327. A Lower Cap splits, - - - - - 181 328. The Trestle-trees are Sprang, - 182 329. A Lower Yard is carried away in the Slings, - - - - 182 330. A Topsail Yard is carried away, ------ 182 331. The Ship leaks faster than the Pumps can free her, - - - 183 332. The Pumps are choked, - - 183 333. A Shot gets loose in a Gun secured for a Gale, - 183 334. To throw a Lower-deck Gim overboard, ----- 184 PART VI. 335. To turn Reefs out of the Topsails and Courses, - 185 336. The Rudder is carried away — to fit another, - - - - 185 337. A Ship on fire at Sea, - - - 186 338. A Ship on her beam ends, ------- 187 339. Wind free, all sail set, struck by a Squall, - - - - 187 340. Struck by a Squall on a Lee Shore, ----- 187 341. Struck by a Squall under whole Topsails and Courses, - - 188 342. On a wind under whole Topsails — part the weather Main Top- sail brace, _____ 188 343. The Jib Downhaul parts, ------- 188 344. To Chase, -- 188 345. To Chase to Windward, 189 346. Observations for a Ship to Windward that is chased, - - 189 347. To Chase to Leeward, ------ - 190 348. To Windward of an enemy within pistol-shot — the weather main rigging is shot away, both ships with main Topsails to the mast, -----____ 190 349. Wind on the Quarter, all sail set — bring by under double-reefed Topsails, ------_--_ 191 350. Wind on the Quarter, all sail set — bring to on the other Tack, under double-reefed Topsails, ------ 191 351. How to get the Anchor off the Bows, - - - - - 191 352. Anchor head to wind, wind free, ------ 192 353. To Anchor on a Lee Shore, ------- 192 354. Scudding under a Foresail — to come to an Anchor, - - - 193 355. To make a Flying moor, -------- 193 356. To Moor with a long scope of chain, ----- 194 357. Blowing Fresh — in Port, -------- 194 358. Send down Lower Yards, ------- 194 359. To House Topmasts, -------- 195 16 . CONTENTS. Number. Page. 360. To back a Bower by a Stream, ---_-_ 195 361. To Sweep for an Anchor, ----_-_ 195 362. Preparations for leaving Harbor, ----__ 195 363. Weighing Anchor in a head Sea, ------ 196 364. Casting or Cutting the Cable, ------- 195 365. Clinching Cables, --------- 197 366. Fitting Buoy-Ropes, - -------- 197 367. Jib-Halliards, with a Whip, ------- 197 368. Jib-Sheets, double, --------- 195 369. Wrecked in a Gale, --------- 198 370. Setting up Rigging at Sea, - - - - - - - 199 371. Slacking the Jib-stay in bad weather, ----- 200 372. Stopping out Top-Gallant Yard Ropes, ----- 200 373. Preventer Braces, --------- 200 374. Keeping a Clear Anchor, -------- 201 375. Anchor turning in the ground, ---___ 201 376. To tend to a weather Tide, - 201 377. A Man overboard (at sea), - 202 378. Jib and Staysail Halliard Blocks at Mast-head, - 203 379. To keep the Hawse clear when Moored, - - - - - 203 380. To tend to Windward — single Anchor, ----- 203 381. To tend to Leeward, ------- 203 382. To Back Ship at Anchor, 204 383. To break the Shear, -204 384. On Getting to Sea, - 204 385. On Fire Regulations in the Merchant Service, - 205 386. Station Bill for fire in the Merchant Service, - - - - 207 387. Taking to the Boats, - - - - - __— - -208 388. Losing a Rudder at a Critical Moment, &c, - - - - 209 389. Steamers getting aground, ------- 209 390. The duty of remaining by a damaged Vessel, - 210 PART VII. 391. On Squaring Yards, - - - 213 392. Up Topgallant Masts and Yards — the Mast being on deck, - 214 393. Down Topgallant Masts and Yards, ------ 215 394. Crossing Topgallant and Royal Yards, and loosing Sails, - 216 395. Top-Mast carried away, - - - - - - - -217 396. Clearing the Wreck of a Topmast, - 218 397. Carrying away a Jib-Boom, ------- 218 398. To fish a Lower Yard in the Shortest Time, - - - - 218 399. Expectation of losing a Lower Mast, - - - - - 219 400. Lying-to in a Gale, after the loss of Masts, - - - - 219 401. Spars to convert in case of need, ------ 219 402. Getting aground, - - - - - - - - - 2f.O 403. The Ballast shifting at Sea, 221 404. Vessels Surprised on Opposite Tacks. - - - 7 - 221 405. Meeting at Sea, - - - - 222 406. A Hint on Running too Long, ------- 222 407. A Hint on Rounding-to in a Gale, ------ 223 408. On Making your Port, --------223 409. Laying off and on to enter a port, ------ 223 410. To Anchor and Veer a long Scope of Cable, - - - - 224 411. Preparations — Going into Harbor. ------ 224 412. Cautions at Night, (Lookouts), - 224 CONTENTS. 17 Number. Page. 413. Two Vessels in Collision, 225 414. Squalls, (Caution), - 225 415. Water Spouts, (Caution,) - - 225 416. Pressure of Water at different depths, ----- 226 417. On Stopping Leaks, - - 226 418. Examination of Chain Cables, - 227 419. Minute Guns, ---------- 227 420. Hoisting on Board Money or Plate, ------ 228 PART VIII. 421. Stowing Hammocks, - -------- 229 422. Cockbilling Yards, - 230 423. Dressing Ship with Flags, 230 424. Keeping the Copper clean, - - - - - - -231 425. Furling from a Bowline, -------- 232 426. High and Low Bunts. - 233 427. To Clear Mast-heads,' 233 428. Placing belaying-cleats in Tops, ------ 234 429. Making Swabs, 234 430. Stowage of Swabs, - - - - - - - - - 235 431. Junk, ----------- 235 432. Making Mats, and Chafing Gear, ------ 235 433. Gaskets, ----------- 236 434. Scraping and Greasing Mats, ------- 237 435. Manning Yards, 237 436. Man Ropes— (side) 238 437. Spare Dead-eyes, 238 438. Hide Rope, 239 439. Hawse-hole Windsail, 239 440. Fighting Ladders, __--239 441. Hawse Bucklers, --__ 239 442. Making-fast a Warp to a Vessel, ------ 240 443. Fitting Quarter Boats' Gripes, - - 240 444. Fitting Gigs' Slings, - 240 445. Scrubbing a Boat's bottom on leaving Harbor, - - - - 241 446. Carrying Light Boats on Shore, ------ 241 447. Miscellaneous Notes on Working Boats, ----- 242 448. Duties of Boats' Crews, - - - 243 449. Boats going on Distant Service, -_._-- 243 450. Boats under Sail. - 244 451. Giving a rope to a Boat, -------- 244 452. Crossing a Bar with Surf— in Boats, ----- 245 453. Hauling up Boats, --------- 246 454. Lowering Boats, ---____-_ 246 455. Turning up the Hands, - -- - - - - - 246 456. Inspection of Rigging, Morning and Evening, - - - - 247 457. Inspection of Stowed Anchors, at Sea, ----- 247 458. Inspection of Boats at Sea, _--_._- 248 459. Gammoning the Bowsprit, -___„-- 248 460. Precaution in Reeving Running-rigging, - 249 461. Topsail Tyes, - - 249 462. Precaution in Blacking Rigging, -____- 250 463. Fore and Main BuntlTnes, - 250 464. Topgallant Mast Ropes, -------- 250 465. Futtock Shrouds, - ' 251 2 18 CONTENTS. Number. Page. 466. Tops and Half-Tops, - 251 467. Striking or Housing Topmasts, - - - - - -251 468. Swaying up Topmasts, -------- 252 469. Unmooring, --- 252 470. Reef-lines to the Topsails, ------- 253 471. Reefing Courses, -- 253 472. Topgallant-Masts struck, --_ 254 473. Hailing aloft, - - 254 474. Proportions for Cables (Hemp), ------ 254 475. " . for Anchors, -------- 254 476. What length is necessary to form a Clinch, - - - - 255 477. References to Sketch of Temporary Rudder, - - - - 255 478. To Splice an Old Cable to a new one, 255 479. Strip Ship, ---------- 256 480. Proportions of Spars of Merchant Ships, Length of Spars, &c. 256 481. Thickness of Spars (Masts), ------- 257 482. Yards, - - 257 483. Distance for Placing Lower Masts, ------ 257 484. Rule for Placing Masts in a Ship, ------ 257 485. Raising Shears on a Wharf, ------- 258 486. To find the Tonnage of a Vessel by U. S. Measurement, - - 259 487. Stepping and Raking Lower Masts, ----- 259 488. Mooring, - 260 PART IX. 489. Preparations for Heaving-down, ------ 261 490. A Derrick, 269 General Cautions, --------- 270 PART X. 491. Explanation of Sea Terms, 273 PART XI. 492. A table showing the weight of Cables and Anchors, used in ships and vessels of war, in the U. S. Navy, - 290 493. A table showing the weight of Guns and Carriages, - - 291 494. « " " Chain Cables, - - - - 292 495. " " how many fathoms make 112 pounds of four- strand shroud-laid rope, ------- 292 496. Weight of one foot of Bar Iron, ------ 293 497. A Table showing the weight of one hundred fathoms cable- laid rope, from two to twenty-six inches, - 293 468. A Table showing the strength of hemp-cables, their weight, size, and number of yarns in each, ----- 294 499. A Table showing the strength of plain-laid rope, three strand, 295 500. " " " chain cable, as tested in fifteen fathom lengths, ------- 296 CONTENTS. 19 Number. Page. 501. A Table showing the strength of short round-linked Bobstay, Bowsprit shroud, or crane-chain without studs, such as is used for rigging, &c. -------- 297 502. Weight of Timber in a green and seasoned state, - 298 503. A Table of measures and weights of different substances, - 298 504. A Table of weight of tarred Cordage, ----- 299 505. A Table showing the comparative strength between Iron Chains and Hemp Cables, and the size required agree- ably to the Tonnage, ------- 299 506. A Table showing the test required of flax and cotton Canvass, as to quality and strength, before being received for use, in the U. S. Naval service, ------- 300 507. Cordage Table, showing the weight of one fathom of rope, from one to twenty-four inches, plain-laid three strands, &c. 301 508. A Table showing the length of 1st warp of Standing Rigging, 302 509. A Table of Foreign Ordnance, - - - - - - 303 510. A Table showing the quantity of provisions, slop-clothing, and small stores, for two hundred men for four months, U. S. Navy, --------- 304 511. A Table showing the component parts of the Navy ration, - 305 512. A Table for finding the distance of an object by two bearings, and the distance between them, ------ 308 513. Dimensions of masts and spars, of the U. S. ship Princeton, - 309 514. A Table of the size of short-linked chain, when used as rigging, 310 515. A Table showing the dimensions of the masts and yards, of American, English, and French ships, - 312 516. A Table showing the compliment of Officers and Crew, allow- ed to each class vessel in U. S. Navy, - - - - 314 517. A Table of spars, &c, for all classes of vessels, - 318 518. A Table showing the dimensions and quality of materials, used in constructing tops, trestle-trees, cross-trees, and caps, in U. S. Navy, -------- 324 519. A Table showing the complement and quality of Boats to each class vessel in U. S. Navy, -_-___ 326 520. A Table showing the weight, size, length and quality, of an- chors, cables, &c, allowed to the different class vessels in U. S. Navy, --------- 328 521. A Table showing the size, quantity, quality, and number of sails, allowed to each class vessel U. S. Navy, - - - 332 522. A Table showing the quantity of canvass, rope, &c, allowed for one suit of sails, for each class of vessel U. S. Navy, - 336 523. A Table showing the length and size of standing and running- rigging, for all classes of vessels in U. S. Navy, with mis- cellaneous articles, -------- 340 524. A Table showing the size, and description, of the different named Blocks, for all classes of vessels in U. S. Navy, - 364 525. A Table showing the projective distances from the spar-deck of U. S. Ship North Carolina, ------ 384 526. A Table showing the weight of armament, stores, outfits and provisions, of U. S. sloop of war Albany - 386 527. Recipe for blacking Ships' standing-rigging, - 389 528. do for blacking guns, -------- 339 529. do for blacking hammock-cloths, yards, and bends, - - 389 530. " for making Liquod Blacking, ------ 390 531. " for blacking guns, 2nd., - • 390 532. " Composition for blacking guns, ----- 390 533. " for making Black Varnish, No. 1, - - - - - 390 534. for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths, No. 1, 390 20 CONTENTS. Number. Page 535. Recipe for making Composition for blacking hammock cloths No. 2, - - - - , 391 536. « " « « « No. 3. 391 537. « « « " « No. 4, 391 538. " for making Black Varnish, No. 2, - - - - - 391 539. " for making Solder for Copper, ----- 391 540. « « " for Lead, - - - - - - - 392 541. " To make the best drying Oil, ----- 392 542. « for Black Stain, - 392 543. " for blacking Guns and Shot, - - - - - 392 544. French Recipe for blacking Guns, - - - - - - 393 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR. We shall first commence with knotting a rope-yarn . 1.— TO KNOT ROPE-YARNS. Take the two ends of the yarns, and split them open about two inches from the end ; and if to make a smooth knot, you may scrape down a little with a knife, so as to make the ends lay smooth ; you then crutch them together as you see in Plate No. 1. Take two opposite ends (leaving the other two dormant), pass one of the ends under, and the other over the standing part of the yarn, connecting them together at the same side you took them from at first ; then jam your knot taut, and see if it will stand test by stretching the yarn from knee to knee, and hauling on it ; if it stands without drawing, you may trim the ends, and go on. 2.— TO MAKE A FOX. Take two or three rope-yarns and make them fast to a belay- ing-pin ; stretch them out taut, and twist them together on your knee ; then rub it down smooth with a piece of old tarred par- celling. This is called a Fox, and is used for many purposes, such as making gaskets, mats, plats, temporary seizings, bend- ing studding-sails, &c. 3.— TO MAKE A SPANISH FOX. Take a single rope-yam and make one end fast as before to a belaying-pin, and untwist and twist it up again the contrary way, and rub it smooth. This is used for small seizings, &c. 22 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 4.— TO MAKE A KNITTLE. A Knittle is made of two or three rope-yarns laid up together by hand, twisting them between the thumb and finger, and lay- ing them up against the twist of the yarn. They are used for many purposes on board a ship, particularly for hammock clews. 5.— OVERHANDED KNOT. To make an overhanded knot, you pass the end of the rope over the standing part and through the bight. 6.— FIGURE OF EIGHT KNOTS. Take the end of your rope round the standing part, under its own part and through the lower bight, and your knot is made. 7._TW0 HALF-HITCHES. Pass the end of your rope round the standing part, and bring it up through the bight — this is one half-hitch ; two of these, one above the other, completes it fc 8.— REEF, OR SQUARE KNOT. First make an overhanded knot round a yard, spar, or any- thing you please ; then bring the end being next to you over the left hand and through the bight ; haul both ends taut, and it is made. 9.— A BOWLINE KNOT. Take the end of the rope in your right hand, and the standing part in the left — lay the end over the standing part, then with your left hand turn the bight of the standing part over the end part, so as to form a cuckold's neck on the standing part ; then lead the end through the standing part above, and stick it down through the cuckold's neck, and it will appear as in the Plate. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 23 lO.— BOWLINE ON THE BIGHT. Take the bight of the rope in your right hand, and the stand- ing part in the other ; throw a cuckold's neck over the bight with the standing parts, then haul enough of the bight up through the cuckold's neck to go under and over all parts ; jam all taut, and it will appear as in the Plate. 11.— A RUNNING BOWLINE. Take the end of the rope round the standing part, through the bight, and make a single bowline upon the running part, and the knot is made. 12— A TIMBER HITCH. Take the end of a rope round a spar ; pass it under and over the standing part then pass several turns round its own part and it is done. 13.— A FISHERMAN'S BEND. With the end of a rope take two round turns round a spar, or through the ring of a kedge-anchor ; take one half hitch around the standing parts, and under all parts of the turns ; then one half hitch around the standing part above all, and stop the end to the standing part ; or you can dispense with the last half hitch, and tuck the end under one of the round turns, and it be- comes a studding-sail bend. 14.— A ROLLING BEND. A rolling bend is something similar to a fisherman's bend. It is two round turns round a spar as you see in the plate, two half hitches around the standing part, and the end stopped back. — {See Plate.) 15.— A CARRICK BEND. This bend is more used in bending hawsers together than for *ny other purpose. In forming this bend you will take the end 24 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; of the hawser, and form a bight, by laying the end part on the top of the standing part, so as to form a cross ; take the end of the other hawser, and reeve it down through this bight, up and over this cross ; then pass the end down through the bight again on the opposite side, from the other end, for one end must be on the top, and the other underneath, as you see in the plate. If both end parts come out at the top it will be a granny's knot. {Remember this.) 16.— A CAT'S PAW. This is generally used in the ends of lanyards, to hook the tackle to, in setting up rigging ; to form it, you first lay the end part of the lanyard across the standing part, which will form a bight ; then lay hold of the bight with one hand on each side ot it, breaking it down, and turning it ovevfrom you two or three times ; clap both bights together, and hook on to both parts. — {See Plate.) 17.— A SHEET OR BECKET BEND. Pass the end of a rope through the bight of another rope, or through the becket of a block ; then round both parts of the bight, or becket, and take the end under its own part, as you see in the plate. It is sometimes put under twice, and the end stopped back to the standing part. 18.— A BLACK-WALL HITCH. This is used with a lanyard, in setting up rigging, to hook a luff tackle to, instead of a cat's paw, where the end of the lan- yard is not long enough to form a paw ; but a strap and toggle is preferable to both. To make a black-wall over a hook, you form a bight, or rather a kink with the end of the lanyard, having the end part under- neath, and the standing part on the top ; stick the hook through the bight, keeping the bight well up on the back of the hook (as you see in the plate), until you set taut the tackle. Note. — You can learn it much better by practice than expla- nation. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 25 19.— A ROLLING HITCH. With the end of a rope take a half-hitch around the stand- ing part ; then take another through the same bight, jaming it in above the first hitch and the upper part of the bight, then haul it taut, and dog your end above the hitch, around the stand- ing part, or you may take a half-hitch around the standing part and stop the end back with a yarn. 20.— A SALVAGEE STRAP. To make a salvagee strap, you may get a couple of spike nails, and drive them into an old piece of plank, or whatever you can find convenient to answer the purpose, or get two hooks, lash them to any convenient place, as far apart as the length you intend to make the strap ; take the end of the ball of rope- yarns, and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks, then take it round the other one, and keep passing the rope-yarn round and round in this manner, hauling every turn taut as you pass it, until it is as stout as you wish it to be. If it is to be a very large strap, marl it down with stout spun- yarn ; if of middling size, marl with two single rope-yarns ; if a small strap, a single rope-yarn. 21.— A PUDDING FOR A MAST OR YARD. Take a piece of rope of the required length, and splice an eye in each end ; get it on a stretch, worm it, and then parcel it accord- ing to the shape you want it. They are generally made as you see in the Plate, large in the middle, tapering gradually toward the ends, and made flat on the side that goes next the yard or mast. When you have got it the size required, mail it down, commencing in the middle and marling both ways until you come to the eye ; if it is intended for a yard it is generally covered with thick leather or green hide ; if for a mast, it is pointed over for neatness. 22.— A SHORT SPLICE. •To splice the two ends of a rope together, you first unlay the rope to a sufficient length, then crutch them together as you see in the plate ; you must then lay hold of the three strands next to you in your left hand, holding them solid around the other part until you stick the three upper ends, or, if it is a large rope. 26 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; you may stop the ends with a yarn ; then take the upper or mid- dle end, pass it over the first strand next to it, stick it underneath the second strand, and haul it taut in the lay of the rope ; turn the rope a little towards you, and stick the second end as you did the first ; the third in the same manner, hauling them taut along the lay of the rope ; — turn the rope round, stick the other three ends in the same manner, and it will appear as in the plate. Note. — If you intend to serve over the ends, you need not stick them but once ; but if not you must stick them twice, and cross- whip them across the strands so as to make them more secure. If the ends are to be served, take a few of the underneath yarns, enough to fill up the lay of the rope for worming, then scrape or trim the outside ends, and marl them down ready for serving. 23.— A LONG SPLICE. To make a long splice, unlay the ends of two ropes to a suffi- cient length, crutch them together in the same manner as a short splice ; unlay one strand for a considerable length, and fill up the space which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it ; then turn the rope round and lay hold of the two next strands that will come opposite their respective lays, unlay one and fill up with the other as before ; then cut off the long strands, and it will appear as in the Plate. To complete this splice, you will split the strands equally in two, then take the two opposite half strands and knot them together, so as to fill up the vacant lay ; then you stick the ends twice under two strands with all six of the half strands, leaving the other six neutral ; then stretch the splice well before you cut the ends off, and it is finished. 24.— EYE-SPLICE. An eye-splice is made by opening the end of a rope, and laying the strands at any distance upon the standing part of the rope, according to the size of the eye-splice you intend to make ; you then divide your strands by putting one strand on the top and one underneath the standing part, then take the middle strand, (having previously opened the lay with a marlinespike,) and stick it under its respective strand, as you see in the Plate. Your next end is taken over the first strand and under the second ; the third and last end is taken through the third strand on the other side. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 27 25.— A CUT SPLICE. Cut a rope in two, and according to the size you intend to make the splice or collar — lay the end of one rope on the standing part of the other, and stick the end through between the strands, in the same manner as an eye-spike, and it will appear as in the plate. This forms a collar in the bight of a rope, and is used for pendants, jib-guys, breast-backstays, odd shrouds, &c. 20.— A FLEMISH EYE. Unlay the end of a rope, open the strands and separate every yarn, divide them in two halves, then take a piece of round wood the size you intend to make the eye, and half-knot about one-half of the inside yarns over the piece of wood ; scrape the remainder down over the others ; marl, parcel, and serve, or if preferable, hitch it with hambro-line. . This makes a snug eye for the collars of stays. (See Plate.) 27.— AN ARTIFICIAL EYE. Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand to a certain dis- tance, and form the eye by placing the two strands along the standing part of the rope and stopping them fast to it ; then take the odd strand and cross it over the standing part, and lay it into the vacant place you took it from at first; work around the eye, filling up the vacant strand until it comes out at the crutch again, and lies under the other two strands; the ends are tapered, scraped down, marled, and served over with spun-yarn. 28.— TO WORM AND SERVE A ROPE. Worming a rope, is to fill up the vacant space between the strands of the rope with spun-yarn ; this is done in order to strengthen it, and to render the surface smooth and round for parceling. Parceling a rope is wrapping old canvass round it, cut in strips from two to three inches wide, according to the size of the rope ; the strips of canvass to be well tarred and rolled up in rolls before you commence to lay it on the rope. The service is of spun- yarn, clapped on by a wooden mallet such as you see in the plate, called a serving mallet; it has a large score cut in the under part of it, so as to fay on the rope, and a handle about a foot long, or 28 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; according- to the size of the mallet. The service is always laid on against the lay of the rope ; a boy passes the ball of spun-yarn at some distance from the man that is serving the rope, and passes it round as he turns the mallet ; when the required length of service is put on, the end is put under the three or four last turns of the service and hauled taut. ■ Note. — It has always been customary to put on parceling with the lay of the rope in all cases ; but rigging that you do not intend to serve over, the parceling ought to be put on the contrary way. 29.— TO CLAP ON A THROAT AND QUARTER SEIZING. Splice an eye in one end of the seizing, and take the other end round both parts of the rope that the seizing is to be put on ; then reeve it through the eye, pass a couple of turns and heave them hand-taut ; then make a marlinespike-hitch on the seizing, by taking a turn with the seizing over the marlinespike, and laying the end over the standing part ; push the marlinespike down through, then under the standing part and up through the bight again. Heave taut the two turns of the seizing with the spike ; pass the rest and heave them taut in the same manner, making six, eight, or ten turns, according to the size of the rope ; then pass the end through the last turn, and pass the riding turns, five, seven, or nine, always laying one less of the riding than of the first turns ; these should not be hove too taut — the end is now passed up through the seizing, and two cross-turns taken between the two parts of the rope, and round the seizing ; take the end under the last turn and heave it taut ; make an overhanded knot on the end of the seizing, and cut off close to the knot. Note. — When this is put on the end of a rope, and round the standing part, it is called an end-seizing ; if on the two parts below the end, a middle or quarter-seizing. A throat-seizing is passed the same way, but is not crossed with the end of the seizing. 30.— TO MAKE A TURK'S HEAD. Turk's heads are made on man-ropes, and sometimes on the foot-ropes of jib-booms in place of an overhanded knot, as the Turk's head is much neater than the knot, and considered by some an ornament. It is generally made of small white line. Take a round turn round the rope you intend to make the Turk's head on, — cross the bights on each side of the . round turn, and stick one end under one cross, and the other under the other cross j it will then be formed like the middle figure in the plate, Sheepshank. Worming a Rope. ; iiO\. Serving a Rope. A Strand Buoy Rope Knot. "^S OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 29 after which follow the lead until it shows three parts all round, and it is completed. 31.— TO SHEEPSHANK A ROPE OR BACKSTAY. This is intended for shortening a backstay ; the rope is doubled in three parts, as you see in the Plate, and a hitch taken over each bight with the standing part of the backstay and jamed taut. 32.— TO PUT A STRAND IN A ROPE. This is done in case of one strand of a rope getting chafed or magged, and the other two remaining good. To perform this, you take your knife and cut the strand at the place where it is chafed, and unlay it about, a couple of feet each way ; then take a strand of a rope as near the size as possible, and lay it in the vacancy of the rope, (as you see in the Plate,) and stick the ends the same as a long splice. 33.— TO WALL AND CROWN. Unlay the end of a rope, and with the three strands form a wall knot, by taking the first strand and forming a bight ; take the next strand, and bring it round the end of the first, the third strand round the second, and up through the bight of the first — this is a wall. (See Plate.) To crown this, lay one end over the top of the knot, which call the first, then lay the second over it, the third over the second, and through the bight of the first. It will then appear as you see in Plate No. 3. 34.— TO MAKE A MATHEW WALKER. A Mathew Walker is made by opening the end of a rope, and taking the first strand round the rope and through its own bight ; then take the second end round the rope underneath, through the bight of the first, and through its own bight ; the third end take round the same way, underneath and through the bights of all three. Haul the ends well taut, and it will appear as in the Plate. This is a good lanyard knot, if well made. 30 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 35.— A SPRITSAIL SHEET KNOT. Unlay two ends of a rope, and place the two parts which are unlaid together ; form a bight with one strand, and wall the six together against the lay of the rope, (which is hawser-laid,) the same as you would a single wall with three ends ; after you have walled with the six ends, haul them taut ; you must then crown with the six ends, and it will appear as in the Plate. To com- plete it, you must follow the lead of the parts, and double wall and crown it. This knot is frequently used in old-fashioned ships as a stop- per knot. 36.— A SHROUD KNOT. Unlay the ends of two ropes and place them one within the other, the same as you commence to make a short splice ; then single wall the ends of one rope round the standing part of the other, and then wall the other three ends in the same manner ; the ends are opened out, tapered down, and served over with spun-yarn. This knot is used when a shroud is either shot or carried away. 37.— A FRENCH SHROUD KNOT. Place the ends of two ropes as before, drawing them close together ; then lay the first three ends back upon their own part, and single wall the other three ends round the bights of the other three and the standing part ; it will then appear like the figure in the Plate. The ends are tapered as the other. This knot is much neater than the common shroud knot. 38.— SINGLE DIAMOND KNOT. Unlay the end of a rope a sufficient length to make the knot, and with the three strands form three bights, holding the ends fast down the side of the rope in your left hand, with the stand- ing part of the rope ; then take the first strand over the bight of the second strand and through the bight of the third ; then take the second over the third and through the bight of the first ; then the third, over the first and through the second. Haul these taut and lay the ends of the strands up again, and it will appear as in the Plate. This knot is used for jib-boom foot-ropes, man-ropes, &c. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 31 39.— DOUBLE DIAMOND KNOT. To make this, you make a single one as before ; then take a marlinespike and open the strands, and follow the lead through two single bights, the ends coming out at the top of the knot ; lay the ends of the strands up as before, and it will appear as in the Plate. 40.— A STOPPER KNOT Is made by double-walling and crowning, which has been described before on another page. The ends, if very short, are whipped without being laid up ; but if long they are laid up and stopped. 41.— A BUOY-ROPE KNOT. Unlay the strands of a cable-laid rope, take one strand out of the large ones, and then lay the three large ones up again as before ; take the three small ones which were left out, single and double them round the standing part of the rope ; then take your spare ends, worm them along the lay and stop them. 42.— COMMON SENNIT. Sennit is made by plaiting rope-yarns together. (/See Plate No. 4.) 43.— A SEA GASKET. A sea gasket is made by taking three or four foxes, according to the size you intend to make the gasket. Middle them over a belaying-pin, and plait three or four together, long enough to make the eye ; then clasp both parts together to form the eye : then plait it by bringing the outside foxes on each side alternately over to the middle ; the outside one is laid witb the right hand, and the remainder held steadily — work the whole together, add- ing a fox when necessary. When you have got it a sufficient length, diminish by dropping a fox at proper intervals. To finish it, you must lay one end up, leaving its bight down ; then plait the others through this bight about one inch ; haul the bight taut to secure all parts — cut the ends off, whip it, and it is completed. 32 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 44.— A PANCH, OR WROUGHT MAT. A piece of six or nine-thread stuff is stretched in a horizontal direction, and the foxes (according to the breadth you intend to make the mat) are middled and hung over it ; then take the fox nearest the left hand and twist a turn in the two parts, and one part give to the man opposite (two men being employed to work the mat) ; the next fox has a turn twisted in its two parts, and one part given back to your partner ; the remainder are twisted round the first which are given back, and then again round its own part, and so on with the remainder of the foxes, until you get it the breadth you wish. At the bottom of the mat selvedge it by taking a piece of nine-thread stuff, the same as you used for the top. The two parts of the foxes which are twisted to- gether at the bottom are divided, and the nine-thread put between them ; the foxes are hitched round it, and the end put through its own lay with a marlinespike ; trim the ends off, and thrum it with pieces of old strands of rope, cut in pieces about three or four inches long ; open the lays of the foxes with a marlinespike, push the thrums through the lays, and open the ends out. 45.— HARBOR GASKET, OR FRENCH SENNIT. A harbor gasket is made with foxes, something similar to the common sea gasket, — but instead of taking the outside fox over all the rest, and bringing it into the middle, you interweave it between them by taking the outside fox of both sides, and taking it over one and under the other, working it towards the middle, the same as common sennit. 46.— POINTING A ROPE. Unlay the end of the rope a sufficient length for pointing, and stop it ; open the strands out into yarns, and take out as mani- as you think it will require to make the knittles, by splitting the yarns and making one knittle out of every outside yarn ; when they are made, stop them back on the standing part of the rope : then form the point with the rest of the yarns, by trimming and scraping them down to a proper size, and marl it down with twine — divide the knittles, taking every other one up and every other one down ; then take a piece of twine, called the warp, and with it pass these turns very taut, taking a hitch with the last turn every time you pass the warp, or filling. Then take the knittles which are up and bring them down, and the ones which are down, up ; hauling them taut, and passing the warp every OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 33 time over the lower knittles ; proceed in this manner until you get almost to the end, reserving enough of the knittles to finish it with ; leave out every other bight of the knittles of the last lay. and pass the warp through the bight, haul them taut and cut them off. A becket is sometimes worked in the end. Note. — Knittles are made by laying rope-yarns together, with your finger and thumb, against the twist of the yarn. Snaking is for the better securing of a seizing, which is passed round the single part of the rope and therefore cannot be crossed. It is done by tucking the end part of the seizing under and over the lower and upper turns of the seizing. 47.— TO MAKE A GROMMET. A grommet is made by unlaying a strand of a rope and placing one part over the other ; with the long end follow the lay, until it forms a ring, with three parts of the strand all round ; finish it by knotting and sticking the ends the same as a long splice. {See plate No. 4.) 48.— TO PASS A ROSE LASHING. It is used in lashing a strap or pudding round a mast or yard or the parral lashing of a top-gallant yard ; this lashing is passed crossways over and under one eye, then under and over the other ; the end part is afterwards taken in a circular form round the crossing, and the end tucked under the last part. Note. — This circular part is done to expend the end, instead of cutting it off, so that it will answer again for the same purpose. 49.— TO WEAVE A SWORD MAT. A piece of wood called a sword is used ; this is put alternately between the parts of the spun-yarn or sennit, stretched over two round iron bolts (as you see in the figure) ; the warp of marline is placed through the parts which the sword has opened, and jamed by it close to the head ; a piece of spun-yarn is put slack through the same division at the opposite end and left there ; the sword is taken out, passed under and over the parts as before, and each end of the warp passed and jamed taut. The piece of spun-yarn which was left at the opposite end, is now lifted up, and brings the parts as they were first divided by the sword ; the warp is passed as before, and so on until the mat is completed. 34 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; SO.— A LASHING CLEAT Is shaped like the figure in the Plate, having scores for the seizings which are marked, and a groove cut in the part that fits next to the shroud. BLOCKS. 51.— A SHELL, PIN, AND SHEAVE. Blocks are of different kinds, shapes, and sizes, according to the several purposes for which they are intended. A block consists of a shell, sheave, and pin ; and from the num- ber of these sheaves it derives its name, viz. : a block with one sheave is called single ; with two sheaves, double ; with three, treble ; and with four sheaves it is called a four-fold block. The shell of a block is made of ash, and has one or two scores cut at each end, according to its size ; these scores are for the purpose of admitting a strap, which goes round the block, in the centre of which is a hole for the pin ; the shell is hollow inside to ad- mit the sheave. The sheave is a solid wheel, made of lignum vitee, iron, or brass ; in the centre is a hole for the pin, on which it turns. The lignum vitee sheave is bushed with brass or iron ; round the circumference a groove is cut, that the rope which goes over it may play with ease. The sheave is placed, in the shell, and the pin is put through both shell and sheave, which consti- tute a block. 52.— SINGLE, DOUBLE, AND TREBLE BLOCKS. What is termed a single block has but one sheave, and if in- tended for a double strap there are two scores on the outside of the shell. Single blocks are more used than any other kind on board of a ship. A double block has an additional sheave ; it is otherwise the same as a single block. A treble block is made in the same manner as a double, with one more sheave. Treble blocks are generally used as purchase blocks, and strapped in the manner you see in the Plate. 53.— A SHOULDER BLOCK. A shoulder block is the same as a single block, with the ex- ception that it has a projection at the bottom of the shell, called a a ft a OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 35 a shoulder, to prevent the rope that reeves through it from jam- ing between the block and the yard. These blocks are mostly used for bumkin or lift blocks on lower vards. 54.— A FIDDLE BLOCK Is made like two single blocks one above the other, the upper one being the largest so as to allow the rope which is rove in the upper sheave, to play clear of the rope in the under one. These blocks are used in places where there is not space enough for a double one, or where it (the double block) would be liable to split by not canting fair, or having room to play. These blocks are used for top burtons, of top-mast rigging ; if there is none placed in the top, splice a lanyard into that in each shroud, and take two or three turns thr mgh each, stay the mast, and set the rigging and backstays uj 1 . In setting up' he backstays the single block of the jigger, which is hooked to the thimble, is hooked to a blackwall hitch, in the lan- * Suppose this to be the fore topgallant-mast. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 75 yard, and when set up, expend the lanyard through the thimbles, and seize the ends. On both shrouds on each side clap on small jiggers, hook the double blocks to straps on the shrouds, the sin- gle to Blackwall hitches in the lanyards, and set up and secure the same as the backstays. The fore topgallant stay reeves through the outer sheave-hole in the jib-boom, and through a bull's-eye hooked to the bows, and when set up, is seized to its own part. The main topgallant stay is rove through the middle sheave in the after chock of the fore topmast crosstress, or through a block strapped around the fore mast-head, and set up in the fore top. The mizen topgallant stay is rove through a bull's-eye in the after part of the main cap, and set up in the main top. 134.— ROYAL RIGGING. There is one breast, and after backstay on each side, seized as the after backstays on topgallant masts. The breast backstay or shroud, is pulled up with a gun tackle purchase ;* the after leg has a thimble turned in, and sets up in the after part of the chains, with a lanyard. Royal stays. — As there is no funnel (although it would be a great advantage to have one), splice an eye in the stay to fit the mast-head, cover it, and serve over the splice. It goes on next to the grommet, then the shroud and backstays, spanned together. The fore royal stay is rove through the outer sheave-hole in the flying jib-boom end, and pulled up through a fair leader on the forecastle. The main royal stay is rove through a thimble stopped around the foretop gallant mast-head, through another strapped round the eye of a shroud, and when set up is seized to its own part. Mizen royal stay reeves through a sheave in the after part of the main topmast trestle-trees, through a thimble strapped round the eye of a main shroud, and seized to its own part. * Royal-backstays are set up with a jigger to their respective places in the channels. The shrouds are set up in the top(breast-backstay-fashion. THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 135.— SHORT AND LONG TOPGALLANT MAST-ROPES. Short m,ast ropes have a thimble spliced in one end, and the other end pointed. They are rove when the mast is rigged, and are used for ridding. They should be sufficiently long (when the mast is landed on the top or cap), after being rove through the block and sheave in the heel of the mast, and clenched to the cap, to allow the thimble to hang clear of the cat-harpen legs. If the topsail-yard is crossed, the mast is landed on it, for rig ging ; if the topgallant-mast should be too long to allow its be- ing landed on the yard, the mast rope must be lengthened ac- cordingly. Long mast ropes. — Ropes are often fitted for the purpose ; but the topgallant yard rope is generally used. I have seen them fitted as follows, and they answered very well : — The rope is rove, and stopped to the topgallant-masthead, and royal sheave-hole, leaving a long end over the upper stop, to hitch to the bolt, before cutting the stops. To prevent the rope slipping, rack both parts together above the sheave-hole in the heel of the mast. 136.— TO RIG THE FLYING JIB-BOOM. Sway it on board and point it through the iron at the jib-boom end. A tail block is put on the neck of the iron, or on the jib- stay, close down to the boom. Through this block reeve the heel rope, one end taken in on the forecastle, and the other bent to the heel of the boom. A rope is bent to the heel of the boom to serve as a guy ; sway the boom out a foot or two for rigging. Put over the foot ropes, fitted as the jib-boom, the inner ends seized to the jib-boom end, inside the iron. The martingale, when single, is secured round the boom end, clenched, spliced, or with a running eye, rove through a sheave in the dolphin-striker, and in on the forecastle, on the opposite side to the royal stay. When double, a single block is strapped round the boom end, and the standing part spliced round the dolphin-striker ; hauling part as when single. Guys. — One on each side spliced into each other, forming a cut-splice to fit the boom end. The other end rove through thimbles, strapped round the spritsail yard, through fair leaders in the bulwarks, and pulled up on the forecastle, or set up on the bows. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 77 Man the heel rope and get the boom out ; the heel is placed in a step formed on the fore side of the bowsprit cap, for the purpose, and secured with a lashing, rove through the end, and passed round the jib-boom. Set up the martingale, stay the fore topgal- lant and royal mast, (fore and aft,) by the stays and backstays ; and if the spritsail yard is crossed, reeve the guys, turn in thim- bles, and set them up. 137.— SPRITS AIL LIFTS Are single ; have an eye spliced in one end to fit the yard-arm ; splices served over are taken over the jib guys, rove through the bull's-eye in the cap, and set up on the forecastle. Blocks are sometimes strapped into the bolts, but it is quite unnecessary. Bolts are often driven into the fore side of the cap, and the lifts led through ; when this is done, they are generally set up there with lanyards and thimbles, spliced into the end, which answers every purpose. 138.— SPRITSAIL BRACES. A single block is strapped in toa bolt in the cheek of the fore- mast on each side. The brace has an eye in one end, to fit the yard arm ; the other is rove through the single block, on collar of fore-stay, and another single block is spliced into the end ; a luflf tackle purchase is rove with it, and a double block on the deck, one sheave answering for a leading one. They are sometimes rove double, but the practice is getting out of date. 139.— STRAPPING THIMBLES FOR GUYS ON SPRIT- SAIL YARDS. The thimbles are double-strapped and secured, after being placed round the yard, and in the score of the thimbles, with a round seizing passed between the thimble and the yard; the splices laying in the upper side of the score in the thimbles. 78 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; Some fit grummet straps, or a short-long splice, in the strap for neatness. The use of double straps is to allow the thimbles to lay fair with the yard for the jib guys to lead through ; if single, they would stand fore and aft. 140.— CROSSING A SPRITSAIL YARD. The yard being rigged, prepare for crossing as follows : Clap a good selvagee strap well up, on the fore topmast stay ; to it hook a snatch or leading block large enough to take a haw- ser ; reeve it and timber-hitch it round the starboard quarter of the spritsail yard, (if got out on the starboard side,) stop it along to the larboard quarter, and half way out on the larboard yard- arm. Overhaul doAvn the lifts and braces, and sway out, keeping the larboard yard-arm under the bowsprit ; when clear on the larboard side, put over the brace, or block, and lift, and haul out ; when nearly out, or before clear of the head rails, put over the starboard brace or block and lift ; haul on the hawser, starboard lift, and brace, and cast off the stops. When sufficiently out, pass the parrel, take a turn or hold well on the end; hook the tye, and square the yard. Cast off the hawser- and unreeve it ; reeve the jib-guys through their thimbles on the spritsail yard, turn in dead-eyes or blocks, and set them up to others on the bows ; set all up taut and square the yard. 141.— TWO HALF SPRITSAIL YARDS. Two half spritsail yards, made like dolphin-strikers, are se- cured to the bowsprit with jaws, (or an iron band fitted round the bowsprit, with a double goose-neck hinge,) to cant or turn in any required direction. When the half spiritsail yard is carried it is rigged as follows : — The fore guys are made of well stretched rope, and equal in strength to the jib guys together, each fitted with an artificial eye to fit the jib-boom end and half yard-arm. They should be wormed with small rope, parceled and served, or covered in the eyes ; four stranded rope is preferable, it being not so liable to stretch as three. The after guys are fitted with an artificial eye in one end, to fit the yard arm, and a thimble spliced into the other. They are the same size as the fore guys, and wormed in the same manner. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 79 If made on purpose, and four-stranded, the thimble is kept in the bight with a round seizing. • The jumper, or lower guy, is fitted the same as the after, only shorter ; the length of this depends on the drop intended to be given to the yard arm, which should never be less than the sprit- sail yard, when well braced up, or, in other words, canted. The jumper is put on the yard arm first, then the after one, next, the foremost, and over the jib-boom. The after one is set up to a bolt by the cat-head, well down; the lower, to an eye- k bolt in each side of the cutwater, well out. For a frigate, the guys are eight-and-a-half-inch, and wormed with twenty-one thread stuff. Four-stranded rope, if made on purpose, can have the eyes formed when laying up in the rope walk. Some fit forward and after guys all in one. 142.— WHISKERS. Whiskers are iron outriggers from the cathead, with sheaves in them for the guys to reeve through, and set up to the fore chains, the same as when rove through the spritsail yard. This plan is much in use in small vessels, but the boom is supported almost entirely by the martingale, as the guys being considerably above the boom, and its always topping up, when the sail is set on a wind, the more wind the greater the strain on the martin- gale ; and should the guys be not carefully pulled up, the boom must depend on the martingale entirely for support. 143.— TO GET ON BOARD AND RIG LOWER YARDS. Overhaul the hawser from the lower mast-head, bend on to the slings of the yard, and get them nearly up and down ; clap sel- vagees on the quarters, to which hook the pendant tackles. As it comes on board, cut the stops, easing away on the pendant tackle, and bousing on the other, until the yard is at h wart-ships ; place chocks in the hammock nettings for the yard to rest on ; slue them fair, and lash them ; come up the tackles, cast off the hawsers, and place a shore under the middle of the yard to prevent its springing. Measure the yard, tar and leather the slings, fit a saddle for the D thimble, which lash on with a piece of well stretched rope, heaving each turn taut with a Spanish windlass, and fitting the score of the D thimble. Cover all with leather, and fit the straps for the preventer slings, &c, &c, &c. Note. — The iron sling-bands are now used instead of the old fashioned D thimble. 80 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; Chain is now generally used, and allowed to all ships in the service for the slings (proper), rope ones being used as preventers. (See Rigging Table.) 144.— TRUSS STRAPS. A large thimble with the score well parceled, is seized into a double strap, which is made by splicing both ends together, and served over ; the thimble secured in the strap with a round seizing, the splice laying in the score. The strap should be long enough to go round the yard in the quarter, both eyes lashing together on the fore side. There are two on each yard. One thimble is seized inside the truss pendant, the other outside j- and one in the round of the pendant higher up than the other. 145.— TRUSS PENDANTS* I Are wormed, parceled, and served ; an eye is spliced in one end large enough to take the pendant when rove through it ; in the other an artificial eye is made, large enough to take the single block for truss fall. The pendant should be rove through the small eye before the artificial one is made, boused well taut round the yard, the eye being kept underneath, and one pendant higher than the other. Reeve the upper pendant through the upper thimble, and lower pendant through lower thimble. Being rove in this manner, they will lead perfectly clear of each other. Hide rope is preferable for pendants, but the iron patent truss is now allowed to all vessels, up to a second class frigate inclu- sive. (New regulation). 146.— QUARTER BLOCKS— LOWER YARDS. Quarter or topsail sheet blocks are large single blocks, with double straps ; the block seized in with a round seizing, and se- cured round the yard, (inside the cleat, one on each side,) with a rose-lashing passed through both bights on the top of the yard. * For length and size, see Rigging Table. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 81 Before the lashing is passed, the block should be hove up with heavers, and the eyes of the strap brought as close together as possible. This is done with a good strand passed through both, and hove up with a Spanish windlass. Vessels carrying chain top- sail sheets, have iron blocks fitted to the iron bands in the slings of the yard for that purpose. (See Rigging Table). 147.— CLEW GARNET BLOCKS Are single ; seized into a single strap, with an eye spliced in each end, and are secured round the yard with a rose-lashing, the same as the topsail sheet blocks, just outside the cleats. Some ships have all the rigging inside the cleats, which is much neater. Note. — Iron bound blocks are allowed to all classes of vessels in the navy, by the new regulation, for this purpose. 148.— LIFT BLOCKS— LOWER YARDS Are single, seized into a single strap, with a round seizing; the strap being long enough to go over the yard arm, after the block is seized in. If both ends are spliced together, the splice should lay in the score of the block, or upper side ; but a grum- met will answer equally as well, and look snugger. 149.— FOOT ROPES AND STIRRUPS. The foot ropes are cut once-and-a-half the length of the yard, (excepting lower yards). An eye, to fit the yard arm, is spliced in one end ; and a small one, to take a seizing, in the other. The splicing served in the way of chafing (one- third) midship part. Stirrups are short pieces of rope spliced round the foot rope ; eyes spliced in the opposite ends, to go over the jackstay-bolts ; splices served over. They are sometimes unlaid at one end and made into plait, and secured to the yard with flat-headed nails, having a small piece of hide or leather placed under their heads before being driven into the yard. Going over the jackstay bolts 6 82 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; is preferable ; and some seize it to the neck of the bolt, or staple. They hang on the after side of all yards. Some vessels have their foot ropes fitted to go abaft the mast, and seized to the parrel, which answers a very good purpose, es- pecially in vessels with raking masts, as it gives the men a better opportunity to stand. 150.— JACKST AYS.— BENDING AND REEFING. Take a piece of rope of the proper size,* cut off the length of the yard, splice an eye in each end, to fit the yard arm, sufnciently taut to require being driven on. Cut in the centre, and splice a .thimble in each end ; put the strands for splicing in once-and-a- half, marl down, and serve over. If two jackstays on each arm, (which should always be the case when the sail is reefed to one), the large one, before splicing the thimbles in, is rove through the eye-bolts on the yard for the purpose ; this is the reefing jackstay. The bending one is fitted the same way, and after being put over the yard arm, is seized to the neck of the bolts on the after side. This plan has been generally adopted, as it was found much easier to reef, than when fitted with only one jackstay ; there be- ing always difficulty and delay in getting the points between the jackstay and the yard, when the sail was bent to it. When only one jackstay, it is rove through the eye-bolts. Note. — Iron bending jackstays are now allowed for all vessels in the navy. 151.— BRACE BLOCKS.— LOWER YARDS. The straps should be fitted sufficiently taut to require being being driven on the yard arm. Two thimbles are fitted, one within the other, called lock thimbles. Take a piece of rope, of the proper size, and cut it long enough to go round one thimble and the yard, when spliced together ; worm, parcel and serve it, and pass a round seizing round this strap, close to the thimble. Grommet straps are preferable, if time will permit. The block is a large single one, with two scores. For the strap take a piece of rope the required length, and splice both ends to- * For the length and size of rope, see Rigging Table. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 83 gether ; worm, parcel, and serve it ; reeve it through the thimble already strapped, and pass both parts round the score of the other thimble ; then place both bights in the scores in the brace block, keeping the splice in the after end of the block ; pass a round seizing between the block and thimble, crossing it both ways, as in a double strap. Cross-jack brace-blocks are single, and strapped the same as lower ones. A double block is secured to the after shrouds in the main rigging, the same as main preventer brace blocks. When reeving the cross-jack braces, one end of the brace is clinched, spliced, or half-hitched, and the end seized, just below the block ; then rove through the block on the yard, through the inside sheave in double block, and through a fair leading sheave in a rack, in the side or a leading block. I have seen blocks strapped into bolts on the main-mast, for the brace and bowline, which answered well. The brace block should be put on the yard, sufficiently far in to be inside the topmast backstays, when braced up. Note. — These braces should be well below the yard, as it al- ways tops up on the wind, which slacks the weather leech ; this is partly the reason a mizen-topsail never stands well. 152.— PLACING THE RIGGING ON LOWER YARDS. Sling bands in the centre, and also on both sides, close to the topsail sheet block, the truss pendants, then truss straps ; if the rigging is all within the cleats, a clue garnet block is lashed on each side ; if not, they are lashed one on each side, close outside. I have seen them both ways, but inside is preferable. Tar well the yard arm, close to the cleats and slings, in the wake of the rigging, first jackstay ; if two, the bending one, and set it up amidships with a lanyard. Then the foot ropes ; after going over the yard arm, and rove through the stirrups, they are lashed together, with a lanyard rove through both thimbles, and are secured with a good seizing to the strap of quarter block. Then the brace, and lift blocks. Rolling tackle straps on the inner quarter of yard, with the eye abaft burton straps on the outer quarter yard-arm, eye on top of yard. If the stirrups go over the jackstay bolts, they should be put over before the jackstay is rove. The cross jack-yard has no jackstay, head earings, or yard tackle straps; and the brace blocks, instead of going over the yard-arm, are put on some distance inside of the sheave hole for the mizen-topsail sheets, on the forward side of the yard. 84 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 153.— GETTING UP JEER-BLOCKS, AND REEVING JEERS. Secure two single whip blocks to the after bolts in lower cap. Send the two foremost ends through lubber's hole down on deck ; bend them through the shell of the block, with two half-hitches, and seize the end. Stop them along each leg of the strap, the larboard whip to the larboard leg, and the starboard whip to the starboard leg; then stop both legs together with a seizing of spun-yarn in the bights — the hauling part of the whips being through lubber's hole and through a leading block on deck ; man them and hoist the blocks into their places. When clear of the top, cut the stop in the bights, haul on the whips, and they will bring the strap into its place, on each side of the mast-head. Then cut the upper stops, on the whips ; take a turn and pass the lashing in the bight, securing each end to their next part. When secured, let go, and take off the whips. Reeving jeers. — The standing part is clenched round the strap of the upper block, rove through the one on the yard, up through another sheave in upper block, and so on, until all rove full. The hauling part is rove through a leading sheave, in fore -or main bitts, or through leading blocks. Wlien heaving up, they are either brought to the capstan, or manned by hand. The jeer blocks are now generally fitted with hooks, as they can be got up and down much quicker. At the present day, few ships are seen to carry their jeers up in their proper places. 154.— LOWER LIFT BLOCKS Are double ; an iron plate is bolted across the upper side of the main or fore cap ; it is in the form of a crescent, with the hollow side toward the topmast. In each end of the crescent, or horn, an eye is turned and a thimble put in it. Instead of the eyes being turned, I have seen two eye-bolts driven through the cres- cent and cap, and secured underneath with a nut ; a thimble is also put in the eye-bolt, and the blocks strapped in. The cross-jack lift blocks are single, one on each side, and can be fitted as the fore or main, or (a chalk) abaft the mast-head, if preferred, for neatness. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. #5 155.— REEVING LOWER LIFTS. Clench one end round the yard outside all, then take the other end up and reeve it through the foremast sheave in the double block in the fore or main cap, then through the block on the yard, through the other sheave in the double block, and through lubber's hole on deck ; well up this part, splice a lizard for jigger tackle, or use tails selvageed on the end. The upper block of the jigger can be spliced or turned in to the lift, if preferred. The cross jack lifts go over the yard arms with an eye spliced in the end to fit them. The other end is rove through the block at the cap, and is set up with two thimbles and a lan- yard in the top ; one thimble being turned into the end, the other strapped to the eye of one of the lower shrouds. 156.— MAIN BRACES— ON BUMKIN, &c. A single block is seized into a double strap, with a round seiz- ing crossed both ways ; the strap is then put over an iron out- rigger, or bumkin on the quarters, fitted for the purpose. The standing part of the brace being parceled, is rove through another bolt in the bumkin,- and spliced into it or clenched; the other end rove through the block on the yard aim, from out, in through the block in the bumkin, and through a sheave in the bulwarks (abaft), for the purpose. Double blocks are sometimes put on the bumpkin, instead of single ones, and also two sheaves inserted in the bulwarks instead of one, both ends of the brace rove, and led in-board — a great facility in working ship. 157.— FORE BRACES Are clove-hitched, and the end seized aft on the collar of the main stay, below the splice ; the other end taken forward and rove from in, out, through the block on the yard, through a single block strapped into a bolt in the cheek of the main-mast, with a thimble in it, close up to the trestle-trees ; then rove from forward aft, through a sheave in the main fife-rail. The brace is often middled, and clove-hitched in the bight on the main stay, and both ends taken forward and rove as before. Some have a hole bored in the bibs, or cheeks of the mast, instead of clove-hitching it around the main stay. 86 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR : 158.— CROSSING THE LOWER YARDS. The jeers being rove, reeve the pendants and falls, hitch the pendants around the quarters of the yard, splice in the lanyard of the D thimble, and take the yard tackles forward to keep the yard clear of the mast. The lifts and braces being rove, man the lifts and jeer falls, " sway away," and when the yard comes abreast of the futtock staves, pass the lashing of the D thimble, parcel it well, over all, frap all parts together, and cover all with canvass; reeve the truss pendants, turn in the blocks, reeve the falls, haul taut the tresses, and square the yard by the lifts and braces. 159.— TO GET ON BOARD THE TOPSAIL YARDS. A large single block is lashed to the topmast-head, through which a hawser is rove ; overhaul it down forward and hitch it to the slings of the yard, stop it along the yard arm, and sway it on board. Cast off the hawser, middle the yarti^ and prepare it for rigging. 160.— RIGGING TOPSAIL YARDS. (FORE AND MAIN.) The jackstays, after going over the yard arm, are rove through the eye-bolts or staples, and set up a-midships with a lanyard and thimble spliced in. Foot ropes round the yard abaft, on their opposite quarters, as follows : — splice the lanyard into the eye in the end ; take it over the yard, and round on the fore side, underneath through the OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 87 eye ; again back round the yard on the fore side, through the eye, and back the same way, until sufficient turns are taken to secure it. Then take a half-hitch from the lower edge of the eye, round all parts of the lashing ; pass it round before ; reeve through the eye on the upper side, take two half-hitches round all, and secure the end. Tye blocks are now generally iron-strapped, and bolted into straps round the yard for the purpose. If fitted with rope, they must have double straps, and secured round the yard, on the upper foremost quarter, with a rose-lashing. If they are single blocks, two on each yard. Quarter blocks are double blocks, iron strapped, and secured in the same way as tye blocks. Much time is saved by having them fitted in this manner, as in shifting yards, the topgallant sheets, and topsail clewlines need not be unrove, which must be the case if rope-strapped. If rope-strapped they are seized into a single strap, and lashed on top of the yard with a rose-lashing. Parrel. — Take two pieces of rope, one longer than the other ; the long one of sufficient length to go round the mast and yard on each side ; the short leg to go round the mast, and lash to the long leg on each side. An eye is spliced in each end, are worm- ed, parceled, and served; both marled together and covered with leather. A round seizing is passed around both, close to the eye of the short leg, on each side. The long leg is taken round the yard, brought round on the fore side, and secured to the short leg with a lashing of small rope, passed through both eyes. The other eyes are lashed together when the yard is across. Brace blocks are strapped in the same way as fore or main yard. Flemish horse is a short piece of rope spliced round a thimble, which is on the neck of the pacific-iron,* it has an eye spliced in the other end, and when the yard is rigged, is secured the same as a foot rope, just inside the brace block, two or three feet, according to the length of the yard. They should be long enough to allow a man to stand on them to pass an earing, &c. They are sometimes fitted to lower and top-gallant yards, for the convenience of reefing, &c. Jewel-blocks are single blocks, seized into a strap put over a thimble on the neck of the pacific-iron, outside the thimble for the Flemish horse. Some fit them to go over the yard arm. Others fit them with sister hooks, to hook to the pacific iron. Straps. — Half way out, on each yard arm, a strap is fitted long enough to allow a thimble to be secured in it, with a seizing pas- sed between the yard and thimble, — this is called a rolling tackle * Is what the boorn-iron ships on. 88 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; strap. Also, straps are put on the yard, with thimbles seized in the same way, inside the lift, to hook a burton to ; but a selvagee strap is generally used for that purpose. 161.— THE MIZEN TOPSAIL YARD Is rigged nearly the same as the others, but the brace blocks are on the fore-side, and the Flemish horses generally spliced into bolts in the ends of the yards, with round thimbles in them. There is seldom more than one tye-block on this yard, and no jewel blocks. 162.— PLACING THE RIGGING ON TOPSAIL YARDS. Tar the yard arms ; first the jackstay, foot ropes, brace, and lift block ; if no lift block, the lift ; Flemish horses, and jewel- blocks. The quarter blocks should be lashed so as to hang clear of the cap, when the yard is down. See that the boom irons go on, and a small cleat, or saddle, inside of the sheave hole, about two feet on each yard-arm, to keep the topgallant sheets clear of the yard. Also reefing cleats on yard-arms, outside the lift. 163.— CROSSING THE TOPSAIL YARDS. Reeve a hawser through one of the hanging blocks ; send one end down before all, the other through lubber's hole, and through a leading block on deck. Take a round turn, and timber-hitch the hawser round the slings of the yard ; stop it along the lar- board yard-arm, if got up on the starboard side ; if got up on the larboard side, the contrary. Overhaul well down to main or fore rigging, the starboard lifts and braces ; the larboard into the top, and stop them ready for rigging. Man the hawser, and " sway away." When the upper yard arm is clear of the top, put over the brace and lift, (or block,) and "sway higher;" rig the lower yard arm, take in the slack of the lifts and braces, then cast off the stops on the upper yard-arm, and when the yard is well up, take two or three turns with the parrel-lashing ; bouse well up on the starboard or lower lifts, overhaul the larboard, and the OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 89 stops being cast off, the yard will fall across. Secure the parrel; square the yard by braces and lifts, and cast off and unreeve the hawser. Note. — In large ships the lifts and brace blocks are generally placed on the yard arms before the yard is sent aloft. The braces are rove when the yard goes up. I would also recom- mend double yard ropes in heavy ships in crossing topsail yards ; also to use the burtons. 164,— FITTING FLY-BLOCKS FOR TOPSAIL HAL- LIARDS. The blocks spliced into the tyes are so called. They are large flat blocks ; some double, sometimes single, and often one double and one single to each. The tyes are sometimes spliced taut round them ; but this way is bad ; as the rope stretches, the blocks cant, and are split. Also a long-eye is sometimes made in the end of the tye, and the fly block kept in its place by a round seizing passed close above the block. The block in gene- ral use is seized into a strap, leaving sufficient space above to splice the tye in ; or a thimble spliced into the end of the tye, and the fly block strapped with a pair of sister hooks, to hook to the tyes. Either of the latter ways are preferable to the former. When the yard is on the cap, these blocks should be square with the top rails. Before turning in and setting up for a full due, an iron traveler is put on the topmast backstay, which is seized to the fly-block, — it prevents the block from striking or injuring the top when lowering ; it also keeps the turns out of the halliards. There is sometimes a traveling jackstay fitted for this purpose. Reeving Topsail Halliards. — When rove double, a single block is strapped into, or hooked, to a swivel bolt in the after part of the chains ; one end of the halliards is spliced into the upper part of the strap of this block, or bent into a becket put there for the' purpose, and the end seized. The other end is then rove through one of the sheaves in the double block in the tye, then through the sheave in the single block in the chains, through the other sheave in the double block, and through a leading block on deck. The Mizen Topsail Halliards have only one tye. The standing part is clenched or half-hitched to the strap, with the thimble, at the mizen-topmast head, and a single block spliced 90 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; or secured in the end. Another single block is strapped into a swivel bolt in the mizen chains, and the halliards rove as with two single blocks ; the fall rove through a leading block or cheek. (Some ships have a treble fly block). 165.— RIGGING TOPGALLANT YARDS. They are got on board like the topsail yards. Leather the slings, seize-on the D thimble, parrel, and quarter blocks, rolling tackle straps, — tar the yard arms — foot ropes the same as topsail yards — stirrups one to each foot rope — iron jackstays secured to the yard with staples, fitted the same way as rope. (Iron sling- bands are allowed by the new regulation.) The lifts are single ; an eye is spliced to fit the yard-arm : the other end is rove through the thimble, or bull's-eye, or a half sister-block in the topgallant-rigging ; a thimble turned into the end, and a lanyard spliced into it, and set up to another thimble strapped round a futtock plate inside the dead-eye in the top, or set up on the end. Braces. — A single block is seized into a single strap, having an eye to fit the yard-arm. If a single brace, an eye is spliced to fit the yard-arm, and the lift and brace marled together. The quarter-blocks are double ; are seiz- ed into a single strap, an eye being spliced in each end ; — they lash together on the top of the yard — the foremost sheave for top-gallant clewline, after one for royal sheet. Parrel. — A long and short leg. Take a piece of rope, cut it the required length, and splice the ends together round the yard. In one bight seize a thimble, with a round seizing ; the other one round the yard ; pass a round seizing close to the yard, round the parrel on the after side; splice a lanyard into the thimble, and fit a short strap the same way on the other quarter. These straps are sometimes served, and often covered with leather, — they go inside the cleats. Grommets can be worked if preferred, and dispense with the thimbles, as they are likely to injure the mast. Jaws are also recommended. The patent iron parrels are now in use in the navy, but are found not to answer for ships of war. Tripping beckets are fitted one on each yard-arm ; work grum- met straps on quarter of yard, seize a thimble in with a round seizing passed between the yard and thimble. A grommet is put on the yard rope, to fit the yard-arm, when getting ready for OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 91 crossing. Also, a lizard; a small piece of rope with a thimble spliced in one end, the other whipped. It goes on the yard rope before being bent to the yard. When ready for going aloft, the yard rope is bent on, and the yard stopped to the lower rigging ; the main on the starboard side, fore and mizen on the larboard side. Note. — Royal yards, opposite sides, to the topgallant yards. 166.— TOPGALLANT BRACES. Fore, — If double, the standing part is clove-hitched round the first and second shrouds of the main topmast rigging ; or crotch of the stay, through the block for the brace, through another single tail block, secured to the first and second shrouds (the same as, and under the standing part), through lubber's hole, and through a fair leading sheave on deck. They are often led forward from the blocks in the topmast rig* ging, through a leading block strapped round the eyes of the fore rigging, or after part of the top, and through fair leading sheaves on the forecastle. In ships of war, I prefer them abaft. The block in the' topmast rigging is fitted as follows : — A single piece of rope is spliced round a single block, having a tail about three or four feet long ; clove-hitch this tail round the first shroud, then round the second, and seize the end. I have seen a round turn taken round the first, and a clove-hitch round the second ; either plan will do, but if neatness is studied, clove- hitch round the second and third ; this will bring the block under the rigging, and out of sight. If rove single, the block is secured the same way — an eye made in the end of the brace to fit the yard-arm ; the other end rove through the block on deck, as before. A whip is sometimes put on the brace, the block spliced in close up to the cat-harpens, which answers very well. One end of the whip is spliced into a bolt on deck, the other led through a fair leading sheave or block. Main. — The main topgallant braces are fitted the same as the fore, with the exception of leading. The standing part is se- cured in the same manner to the foremost, or second and third shrouds of mizen-topmast rigging ; the hauling part before all, through lubber's hole, and through a sheave in the rack, or a leading block, to the side abreast of the mizen-mast. Mizen. — The mizen topgallant braces are single. An eye is spliced in one end to fit the yard-arm. The other end is rove 92 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; through a single block ; seized into a single strap, and secured to an eye-bolt on each side of the main cap, and through lubber's hole on deck. I have seen these braces led through blocks in main topmast rigging, in harbor, where appearance has been much studied. 167.— CROSSING TOPGALLANT YARDS. One man stands on the topmast cap ; two on the crosstrees (one on each side), one of the latter shoves off the grommet, and rigs the upper yard-arm ; the man on the opposite side bears off, — one man stands in the topmast rigging to put on the lower lift and brace ; another stands on the topsail yard, ready to bear off; the lower lift should be well manned in the top. When the order " sway out of the chains," is given, the man standing on the fore part of the top bears the yard rope off, to clear the yard-arm of the top — when clear, " sway away." When the yard-arm is clear of the crosstrees, the grommet is shoved off, the upper lift and brace is pat on, and the order " sway higher " is given ; then the lower lift and brace is put on, and the lift hauled well taut. The man on the cap has the parrel-lashing in his hand, ready for passing; he reeves a turn, and on the order, " sway cross," he hauls on the lizard. The lower lift is boused on, and the yard falls across ; the braces are hauled taut, and the yard squared. When a ship is going to sea, the lifts and braces are stopt to the jackstay, and the topgallant yard ropes toggled for halliards, or half-hitched over the upper block. To toggle the halliards : Strap two single blocks, with single straps, leaving an eye below the seizing, in one, to take a small lashing ; in the other to take the bight of the topgallant yard rope. Lash the block with the small eye, to the eye of a lower shroud, and reeve the yard rope through it. To the strap of the other block secure the toggle with a nettle lanyard. Note. — Separate halliards may be fitted to dog on to the yard rope, with a double - tailed lizard, and hook the lower block to an eye-bolt in the top, which answers a better purpose. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 93 168.— ROYAL YARDS Are fitted the same as topgallant yards, and rigged the same, with the exception of the quarter blocks, which are single. In small vessels they have no jackstay, the sail being bent to the yard. Topgallant sails are often bent the same way, but jack- stays keep the sail much better up on the yard. Some prefer a wooden batten nailed to the yard. Iron jackstays are now used for all vessels in the navy. {New Regulation.) Fore Royal Braces. — Two blocks fitted in one strap, as span blocks, are lashed round the main topgallant mast-head ; the blocks standing on the foremost quarter, on each side. Between the after part of the fore topmast trestle-trees, a piece of wood with two sheaves, the same size, and a large one in the centre, is secured.* The braces are single, an eye is spliced in one end to fit the royal yard-arm ; the other end rove through the span- blocks, back again through the sheaves in the fore topmast trestle-trees, and into the fore top. The blocks are often strapped separately, and seized into the strap with a round seizing, leaving room for a seizing to be passed through the strap, and round the eye of the topgallant stay, before going on the funnel, one on each side. This will not look so neat as span blocks, and are not so easily taken off and put on. The blocks for royal braces are often seized on the topgallant stay, with the idea of clearing the foot of the main royal. Main royal braces are fitted in the same manner as the fore, and led through single blocks on mizen-topgallant mast-head, and back into the main top ; or through lubber's hole in the mizen-top on deck. The latter is decidedly the best plan, as they can be much better attended to when under the eye of the officer of the watch, than when left to the topmen. Mizen royal braces are fitted the same as the others, and lead through sheaves in the after ends of the main topmast crosstrees, and into the top. Crossing royal yards. — They are crossed the same as the top- gallant yards. When they are rigged aloft, the topgallant masts should be fitted with jacks for the men to stand on, not only to expedite the crossing, but also for the safety of the men. They are made of iron, and put on the topgallant mast immediately over the hounds ; the jack is made ldund to fit the mast, and is * This piece of wood is called a fair-leading chock. 94 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; put on before the funnel, if used. The horns on each side are of a proportioned length to the mast ; an eye is turned in the end of each horn, for the royal rigging to reeve through, and set up as before. When no royal rigging, the breast backstay should be rove through the eye, and set up in the top with a gun tackle purchase, fitted between the two after dead-eyes. Royal rigging is quite unnecessary, in my opinion, except in large vessels — the breast and standing backstay is sufficient. Royal sheets are either toggled or bent to the clews, rove through sheaves, in the yard-arms, and through the after-sheave in quarter block, on the topgallant yard ; through leading thimbles on the topmast rigging, and into the top, or on deck. 169.— ROYAL AND TOPGALLANT GEAR. When the topgallant and royal yards are sent on deck, the topgallant sheets are stopped to the topmast-head, and hauled taut on deck. I have seen them in harbor stopt to the tye-blocks close down to the yard. The former is decidedly the best plan, as they are always ready for bending ; the clewlines and bow- lines, are also stopped at the mast-head. The lifts and braces are taken outside the topgallant rigging, and the eyes stopt to the rigging at the topmast-head, before all ; — hauled taut on deck, and in the top. Royal gear is stopt at the topgallant mast-head, and hauled taut on deck, or in the top. 170.— SPANKER-BOOM, TRYSAIL-MAST, AND GAEF The spanker-boom, trysail-mast, and gaff, may be got on board by the yard and stay-tackle. Put the hoops on the trysail-mast, and stop them ; sway away by a pendant tackle, and point the mast through the after chock of the trestle-trees ; lash its head to the mizen mast-head ; leather the boom in the wake of the crutch; seize on sheet-blocks, and reeve the sheets; tar the boom, put over the foot-rop'es, which are set up, just outside the taffrail ; boom-guys, which go with a gun-tackle purchase to the quarters. Hook the topping lift to an iron span around the boom ; ship and key the boom ; seize on a cleat to belay the OR YOUJNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 95 outhaulers to ; then leather the jaws of the gaff, fit throat, and peak-halliard blocks, brail blocks,* vangs and blocks, — reeve throat and peak-halliards, hoist up the gaff, and haul taut the vangs. The spencer gaff may be rigged nearly in the same manner. Chocks should be fitted to go in between the lower and trysail mast-heads. Copper the mast, in the way of the jaws. 171.— SPANKER-BOOM SHEET AND GUYS IN ONE. Into a bolt, with a thimble in each quarter, strap a double block with a single strap ; then seize into two grommet-straps, worked round the boom, (wormed and covered,) two single blocks, one on each side, just outside the taffrail, or crutch. Secure these blocks in their straps, with a round seizing passed between the block and the boom. The rope for the guys is middled and cut ; then an eye, or cut splice made to fit the boom end. Take the larboard guy, and reeve it through one of the sheaves in the double block on the quarter, through the single block on the boom, through the other sheave in the double block, through a fair leader in the side, and pull it up on deck. The starboard one is rove in the same manner, through the block on the star- board quarter. 172.— SPANKER-BOOM TOPPING-LIFTS. A cheek with a sheave in it, is bolted on each side of the mizen trestle-trees, under the rigging ; instead of this cheek, a single block is often strapped into a bolt, with a thimble in it. On the boom outside the taffrail, is an iron hoop, with an eye- bolt on each side, and thimbles in them. Parcel the thimbles in the outside bolts, and into them splice the topping lifts ; the other end reeve down through the cheeks on the trestle-trees, or block, and splice a parceled thimble in the end, for the purpose of hooking the jigger-tackle. * Cheek-blocks are allowed, fitted to all gaffs, by new regulation. (See Block Table.) 96 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 173.— A BRIG OR SCHOONER'S MAIN-BOOM. There being so little boom projecting over the stern, guys are unnecessary. On each quarter, strap a double block, and one on each side of the boom, in separate straps : through these reeve the sheet, — the standing- part from the strap of the quarter-block, and hauling part through one of the sheaves of the quarter-block. In working with the watch they are found very useful ; one man can ease over, while two more can take in the slack. A boom- tackle is fitted with a pendant, to hook forward to an eye-bolt outside, and used when necessary. (Also crotch-ropes). 174.— REEVING PEAK-HALLIARDS. The standing-part is spliced into an eye-bolt underneath, or bottom of the block ; then the other end rove through the inside block on the gaff, from forward, aft; then through a sheave in the double block, through the outer block on the gaff, from for- ward, aft, and down through the sheave in the double block, and through a leading sheave in the bitts, or block on deck. You may dispense with one block, and splice the standing- part round the gaff. 17 5.— REEVING THROAT-HALLIARDS. The standing-part is spliced into the single block, which is hooked to the gaff, up through the double block under the top, down through the single block, up again through the other sheave in double block, and through a leader, opposite to the peak-halliards. 176.— TO FIT SINGLE VANGS. Middle the required length of rope, and seize a cuckold's-neck in the bight to fit the gaff-end, and lead one end on each side. The cuckold's-neck should be neatly covered with canvass, and two snug seizings put on each quarter of the neck, showing two parts of the rope on the top of the gaff, and one underneath. Paint the eye the same color as the gaff. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 97 17 7. —DOUBLE VANGS. Seize into each bight of a long grommet strap, a single block, and secure the strap round the end of the gaff, outside the rig- ging cleats, with a lashing passed round the strap underneath the gaff, and over each block. Splice the standing part of the fall into a bolt ; reeve the other end through the block on the gaff, and through a single block strapped into a bolt, also in the bulwarks. Blocks fitted in this way are called span-blocks. This is decidedly the best plan, as the purchase can be of use until hauled close down on deck. Pendants are now seldom used. 178.— FITTING GAFFS WITH CHEEKS, OR BRAIL- BLOCKS. Close to the jaws, outside the single blocks for the throat- brails, secure two double blocks, strapped in the same manner as the outer blocks used for the peak-brails. The peak-brails, after being rove through the outer blocks, are led through the double ones in the jaws, and on deck through leading blocks. Gaffs are also fitted with cheeks, instead of blocks; and sheaves cut in the jaws for the throat-brails, and fair leaders ; which is the approved plan at present, and is very neat. Some ships in the service have their gaffs fitted to hook to an iron band, with a hook in the end of the gaff, instead of jaws. Others travel up and down an iron groove or railway, fitted to the lower mast (using no trysail-mast). Others again use a wooden bat- ten nailed to the mast; some an iron jackstay, and some a rope one. The try-sail masts are preferable, in a gale of wind. 179.— GETTING UP A GAFF. Pass the jaw rope ; man the throat and peak-halliards, the former best, and sway the gaff up ; when high enough, rack the halliards with spun-yarn to their own parts aloft, and the hal- liards can be hauled up, and coiled in the top out of the way. Steady the gaff amidships, by the vangs. Note. — All gaffs should be peaked, or elevated to an angle parallel with the mizen-topmast stay. 7 98 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 180.— LOWER STUDDING-SAIL OR SWINGING-BOOMS. The lower swinging-booms have goose-necks fitted on one end, which in line-of-battle ships and frigates, hook to the fore- most part of the fore chains, to iron straps fitted for the purpose. They are got in their places when brought alongside, with a burton from the foremost shroud, and another on the after back- stay. One-third from the outer end,, an iron band is fitted, to which the rigging is hooked. When secured for sea, they are got close into the side and lashed to a bolt for the purpose. When in harbor, in large ships, they are sometimes hooked to eye-bolts in the bends, which bringing them lower down, cause the boats, when moored, to ride easier. A small Jacob's-ladder is fitted to the fore chains, and sets up to the boom close into the side ; also one or two seized on the boom some distance out, for the men to get into their boats with. The fore guy is hooked to the boom, the other end taken for- ward and rove through a single block strapped in a bolt in the bowsprit cap, and led in on the forecastle. It is sometimes rove through a block on the spritsail-yard, and is of great use in get- ting the boom from the side ; if no spritsail-yard, blocks can be fitted round the outriggers, or whiskers. The after guy is hooked to the boom, and the other end led in through a sheave in the side ; in large ships, on the main deck, close before the gangway port ; in flush-deck vessels through the bulwarks. . In large vessels they are rove double. The topping lift is hooked to the boom the same as the guys. The topping lift block. — Take a single block, large enough for the rope to be rove in ; seize it into a single strap, wormed and served, leaving a small eye beyond the seizing, to take sev- eral parts of small rope. Seize this block on to the second shroud (if only one swifter forward), half-way between the fut- tock-stave, and seizing of the eye, passing sufficient turns to secure it well. When seized in this way there will be more space between the shrouds, than if seized closer up, which will allow the topping lift to work clearer, and cause no chafing. I have seen this block seized to the eye of a shroud well up, but prefer the former. The lizard. — On the topping lift put a large-sized thimble ; round this thimble splice a piece of rope about five fathoms long ; for a large ship a piece of three-inch rope would be large enough. Reeve the topping lift between the first and second futtock shrouds, through the block, and send the end between the shrouds on deck. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 99 A luff-tackle purchase is often fitted to the topping lift, half- way up the fore rigging. Hoist up ship and key the boom ; put on single blocks for for- ward and after guys, reeve, hook, and haul taut the topping lift. Note— Several ships in the service have span blocks fitted across their fore cap, and a clump block, or bull's-eye, fitted on each fore yard-arm, abaft the lift block. The topping lift is rove through the block on the cap, then through the one on the yard-arm, to the boom ; which does away with the lizard, and when the boom is alongside, at sea, the topping lift can be unhooked from the boom, and triced up with the rest of the studding sail gear, under the fore yard. This method is much approved of in large ships. 181.— LOWER STUDDING SAIL OUTHAUL, BLOCK, &c, &c; &c. Seize a single block into a double strap, leaving an eye to fit the boom end, wormed and served. Then take a piece of six- thread stuff, and pass several turns round the strap and the bolt, and hitch it round all parts. Topmast studding-sail tack-block. — Take a single block the required size, strap it with a good piece of rope, leaving a tail long enough to clove-hitch round the boom, and seize to the bolt in the end. This block is often strapped round the boom, and kept in its place with a bolt in the end of the boom, or a hole bored for the purpose. Sheaves are sometimes cut, but they are bad, as the least slue in the boom takes away whatever purchase the sheave would give. Lower studding-sail halliard block, ove — ship the tiller, and reeve the wheel-ropes. To unship it. — Fit the bolts, single block, pendant and deck- tackle as before, unreeve the wheel-ropes, unship the tiller, knock out the wood-lock, and " sway away." When the pintles are clear of the gudgeons, lower away, and secure it to the scow or lighter — -tow it on shore, and parbuckle, or hoist it out of the water or scow. * If a top-block can be procured, it will answer best, as the neck of the hook being shorter, it will give more hoist. 114 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 204.— GETTING THE GUNS ON BOARD. The gun-car- riages and all the equipments be- longing to the guns are brought alongside in lighters, and hoisted in with the yard & stay. Get them on their respective decks, and reeve the purchase for get- ting the guns on board. Securing the main-yard. — To the bolts in the lower cap, hook the double blocks of two burtons. The single ones are hooked to selvagee - straps, round the yard, close to the lifts, and the falls sent on deck, through leading - blocks. Bouse well taut the main-lifts and burtons together, and belay. Then pass a good lashhig round the main-yard in the slings, and main-mast, to keep the yard steady, and support the trusses, they being previously boused well taut. Take the top tackle-pendant, and reeve it through a top-block, secured well to the yard with a good lashing, passed round the hook, on the outside quarter ; take the pointed end over the cap, pass it between the head of the mast and heel of the topmast, take two half-hitches on its own part, or that from the yard, and secure the end with a round -seizing of spun-yarn. Get a single whip upon the main-yard, close to the lashing, bend one end to the hook of the top-tackle fall-block; hoist the block up and •hook it to the thimble in the pendant. Through this and the other top-tackle fall-block, reeve a fall; clench one end (the standing part), round the main yard close to the block ; the other OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. H5 end, when rove full, through a leading block on deck, by the bitts. The garnet-purchase is a pendant, with a thimble in the upper end, which is hooked to the main-pendant-tackle; the other end is rove down through holes bored in the deck for the purpose, and a stout hook and thimble spliced or turned into the end. The garnet should be long enough to go on the lower- deck, and the holes bored perpendicular to the centre of the port through which the guns are to be got on board. The slings are made of breaching-stuff, twice the length of the gun, the ends spliced together, and the strands put in twice each way ; seize an eye on the bight, large enough to go over the breach of the gun ; put over the eye, and put the slings along the upper part of the gun, lashing them with a piece of rope round all, just for- ward of the trunnion ; put the other end over the muzzle, and in toggle. Lash the purchase-block to the bight of the slings, and also bend on a hawser to weigh the gun, in the event of parting the purchase. "Sway away;" drop the lighter from under the gun, and when the breach is as high as the port, hook the gar- net and also an a-thwartship-tackle to the breech-ring ; haul on the tackle and bring the gun in through the port — run a carriage un- der — lower away ; place the trunnions fair, and clamp them ; come up the purchases, and transport the gun to its port. The lower and main-deck guns are got in in the same way. The can- nonades are taken over the rail ; a toggle is put in the muzzle, one bight of the slings over the cascable, the other over the muz- zle, and back-lashed to the toggle ; the stay or purchase-block is lashed on midships of the slings, and the stay or pendant-tackle to the same place; consequently the gun will come in square. Have the bed and slide ready, place it fair, and drive in the naval- bolt. Ship the screws, beds, and coins ; reeve the breeching, hook side and train-tackles ; see the guns square in the ports, and secure them. The main-deck guns might be taken in over the rail, and struck down the main-hatch ; but I prefer their being taken in through the port, if plenty of men. Note. — The reason for having additional security on the main- yard is, because in getting in the guns, the strain is altogether on the yard ; while in getting up the anchors, the strain is di- vided between two yards. The burtons are sometimes frapped in with the main-lift, between the yard and cap ; but I prefer their not being done so, as they will all render fairer, when the strain comes on them. It is customary to top the main-yard up ; but I saw a line-of-battle ship's guns got in without it, and as it brings a greater strain on the slings and trusses, it should not be done to so great an extent as is the practice. Caution. — When the garnet-purchase is raising the breech to 116 THE KEDGE-ANCL10R; the level required to place the gun in its carriage, care must be taken that the main-purchase be not lowered by a turn, but that the men on the fall "walk back" with a steady step. When the gun is lodged in its carriage, it is removed to its proper port, and another carriage is rolled to the receiving port, ready for the reception of the next gun, and so on. 205.— FITTING SHACKLE-BKEECHINGS. If it be required to fit the breechings on this recently improved plan, it will be necessary to taper and point both ends of the rope preparatory to splicing or turning-in a shackle on each ex- tremity. The shackle should be turned-in and secured to each end of the breeching by two separate seizings, one close to the shackle, and the other towards the pointed end of the rope. They are frequently spliced into a thimble and then shackled, which I think is much neater.* By this simple and serviceable method, the breeching may be shifted in a few seconds, it being no longer necessary to reeve it through the ring at the breech. An opening is now made in the cascable, which admits the introduction of the breeching on the bight ; and the cascable fitted with a hinge or snatch, and some- times a bolt going through the cascable, confines the breeching, and prevents it jumping out on the recoil of the gun. 206.— TRIATIC STAYS. A double block is strapped into a pendant, a hook and thimble spliced into one end ; a single block is strapped with a hook and thimble, a fall is rove, the standing-part bent into a becket in the strap of the single block ; sometimes the double block is strapped, and the pendant spliced in over the seizing. A good strap with a thimble seized into it, is fitted to the strap of the lower block. A piece of rope is spliced round the strap of the fore-stay block, and the other end, when cut to the required length, spliced round the strap of the main-stay block, and seized. This is called the span, and is generally the length between the fore and main- * This last improvement was introduced by Francis Grice, Esq., chief Navai, Constructor, U. S. N. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. ]17 hatchways. The main-stay hooks to a strap with a thimble in it, from round the main-mast-head on the fore side ; the fore from one abaft, fitted in the same manner. The main one gen- erally comes down alongside the slings, the fore one between the trestle-trees, abaft. The pendant and tackle are sometimes fitted separate, to hook, and are easier stowed away. Note. — In case of emergency, these pendants may be taken round the mast-head, and hooked to their own parts. I have known some ships to use them this way altogether. 207.— HOISTING IN SPARS. Overhaul down the fore and main-yard tackles, fore and main- stays, and lead their falls to the opposite side of the deck the spars come in at. Hook burtons to the lower caps (double blocks), single ones to selvagees round the lower yard-arm, close inside the lifts. Send the falls on deck, and pull up the lifts and burtons together, and trusses ; brace the fore-yard in, and hook on to the spars. They should be always hoisted in as stowed.* If the spars are too long to come in abreast, between the fore and main-masts, such as topmasts, hook the main-stay to the strap round the foremost end, and fore-stay to the after one ; then hook the yards to separate straps made of pieces of stout rope knotted together, or good selvagees, according to the weight of the spar. Man the yards and walk them up ; when clear of hammock-nettings, haul on the main-stay, ease the fore and main-yards, keeping the spar square, and get the foremost end inside the rigging ; then ease the main-stay, and get the spar in its place on the booms. Small spars can be got in with the main-yard, a double whip on main-stay, or single guy if required. 208.— STOWING BOOMS. The spars on the starboard side are stowed as follows, viz. : Main-topmast, head aft; main- topgallant, (mast-fishes) hah^yard, main topmast studding-sail booms, and jib-boom. On the lar- * The spars intended to be stowed underneath, should be hoisted in first ; such as topmasts, half-yards, and jib-boom, for the lower tier, and round off with the smaller spars on the top. US THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; board side — fore-topmast, head forward: fore-topgallant-mast, mast-fish, half-yard, fore topmast studding-sail booms, flying-jib- boom, &c. There are several small spars which are equally divided, to make the booms as snug and neat as possible. A great deal of room can be gained by stowing them amidships in one pile, and the boats on each side. As the spars are stowed, they should be numbered on each end, also a list taken, and painted on the fore- side of the boom-boards ; by so doing it will save much time and trouble to find any spar that may be required ; as I have seen all the booms unlashed before a spar was found. The booms are lashed to span-shackles in the deck for the purpose. A few small spars should be kept out, to drive under the lashing, to set all taut. When stowed they are covered with tarpaulins, or matting made for the purpose. When the spars are all in, square the yards. Note. — It is becoming the general practice, to stow both top- masts with their heads forward. Many ships stow all their spars amidships in one pile, with the exception of the fore and main- topmasts, which are stowed outside of the boats ; spare main-top- sail yard on the larboard-quarter, the fore on the starboard- quarter, in the chains, and spare jib-boom across the-stern, secured underneath the stern-davits.* * Some ships stow topmasts and all amidships ; but this is a bad plan, as it would be necessary to take out all, to get a topmast if required, it being under- neath. PART III REEVING RUNNING RIGGING. 209.— FORE BOWLINES. The fore bowlines have an eye in one end, to go over the tog- gle, and are rove through a single block, seized into a single strap, and secured to the fore-stay collar with a seizing passed through an eye left in the strap, and the other end led in on the forecastle. The fore and main clue-garnets are hitched to the yards, then rove through a block lashed in the clews of the sail, up through a block on the quarter of the yard, down to the fife-rail. 2 lO.— FORE-TOPSAIL CLEWLINES. Topsail clewlines are fitted the same as clew-garnets, and sometimes with a whip ; they come on deck through lubber's hole. "When fitted with a whip, a piece of rope nearly equal to the double clewline, is rove through the quarter-block, and an eye spliced in one end, which is secured with a seizing round the clew, when the sail is bent. In the other end, splice a single block, and reeve a fall through it ; one end splice into a bolt in the deck, and the other reeve through a leading-block, well apart from the standing-part. Note. — The disadvantage of double clewlines, is, the points getting in the clew-blocks when clewing up, or sheeting home. 120 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 211.— TOPSAIL BUNTLINES Are toggled to the foot of the sails, and rove through single blocks at the mast-head, underneath the rigging, and through lubber's hole on deck. Cheeks or sheaves set in the foremost end of the trestle-trees are best, as they keep the buntlines clear of the belly of the sails. Blocks in bolts will do equally as well, but do not look so neat. I would recommend fitting a shoe- block underneath the eyes of the rigging, on each side, in prefer- ence. Buntline-spans are short pieces of rope, with a thimble in one end, and the other end whipped ; the buntlines are rove through these thimbles, before being bent to the sail, or rove at the mast- head. At sea these spans are knotted together, abaft the tye- blocks on the yard, and stopped to them. When in harbor, they are let go, to allow the sails being triced well-up to furl, or hauled out to dry, by the bowlines, when toggled to the foot of the sail. 212.— FOKETOP BOWLINES Have an eye spliced in one end to go over the toggle on the bridle ; the other is rove through a block at the bowsprit-cap, strapped into a bolt, or a sheave cut in the after end of the bees and led in on the forecastle. 213.— MAIN BUNTLINES. There are two on each quarter, and reeve on the bights. Reeve first through the large sheave in a shoe-block, then reeve both ends, from forward, through the double block under the fore part of the main-top, and bend or clinch both ends to the holes in the foot of the sail for the purpose. Sometimes toggles are fitted into the holes, with double straps, and an eye spliced into each end of the buntlines. If no shoe-block is to be got, seize two single ones into one strap. Through the other sheave of shoe-block, reeve a fall ; clinch one end to the main-stay by the foremast, or splice an eye and seize it round it. The other end reeve through a leading block, seized into a single strap, leaving an eye to seize it to the stay, or through a sheave or leading block in the fore-bitts. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 121 214.— FORE BUNTLINES Generally toggle to the foot of the sail, and are sometimes clinched ; then rove through a double block under the fore part of the fore-top, and through fair leading sheaves in the racks to the bulwarks. The buntline should be long enough to allow the sail to belly. The outside leg of the buntline is sometimes rove through a thimble strapped into the foot of the sail, and clenched into a cringle put into the bolt-rope, a few feet above the clew. 215.— MAIN BOWLINE Js a runner and tackle, and is rove and unrove as required. It is rove through the thimble seized on the bowline bridle ; the end of the runner is secured round the fore-bitts, or to a cleat. The lower block of the gun-tackle purchase is fitted with a hook, and hooked to a strap close lo the end of the runner, for the pur- pose. I have seen the main-bowline boused up to the weather- forecastle bulwarks, which I think preferable, not seeing any very great advantage from its being hauled amidships ; partic- ularly when it is considered that the main-topsail yard, on a wind, is braced abaft the main-yard. 216.— TOPGALLANT SHEETS Are rove through the sheave in the topsail-yard, then through the after sheave in the double block in the quarter of the topsail- yard, and through a leading sheave or block on deck. The up- per end is bent to the clew of the topgallant-sail ; sometimes a long-eye is spliced, which goes over a toggle in the clew of the sail. They are also fitted with sister-hooks, which is the latest and most improved plan. 122 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 2 17. -TOPGALLANT CLEWLINES Are bent through the clew of the sail, and secured with a sheet- bend ; it is then rove through the foremost sheave on the quarter- block on the yard, and sent down through lubber's hole on deck. 218.— FORE TOPGALLANT BOWLINES Are toggled to the bridle of the sail. The fore one is rove through a single block at the jib-boom end, one on each side, and led in on the forecastle through fair leaders. These blocks are strapped like span-blocks, and lashed together on the upper side with two lashing-eyes ; they are sometimes strapped singly, and go over the boom-end, or seized to the guys. Double blocks are also sometimes put in these straps, and the two inner sheaves used as jib-brail-leaders. 219 MAIN TOPGALLANT BOWLINES Are toggled to the bridle of the sail, then rove through sheaves cut in the after part of the fore-topmast-crosstrees, and through lubber's hole, through fair leading sheaves on deck. Single tail- blocks are sometimes used, clove-hitched round the after shroud in the fore-topmast rigging, close up to the futtock-stave, or seized. 220.— MIZEN TOPGALLANT BOWLINES Are toggled to the bridle of the sail, and rove through single blocks on each side of the main-mast head, and through fair leading blocks on deck. A double block is often used instead of two single ones on each side, one sheave for the brace, the other for the bowline. They should be led from lubber's hole abaft all, between the cat-harpen legs, or futtock-shrouds. OR ' YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 123 221.— TOPGALLANT BUNTLINES Are seldom used in light weather, although very necessary in taking in sail, when blowing fresh, as they save much time, and in some instances a man's life. On a wind it spills the sail, and prevents its getting over the lee yard-arm ; and going free ena- bles the men to furl it much easier. A strong proof of their utility may be inferred from the fact that merchant vessels, who have as little rope rove as possible, and are generally weak-hand- ed, have their sails fitted with buntlines. They are fitted as follows : — A piece of rope with a thimble on it, is spliced into two eyelet-holes, worked in the foot of the sail, about a third from each clew.* Splice the end of the buntline round the thimble ; reeve the other end through a single block, seized into a single strap, and secured round the topgallant mast- head by a lashing passed over all ; send the end of the buntline through lubber's hole, on deck before all to the fife-rail. 222.— ROYAL BOWLINES. The fore royal-bowline is rove through a block at the flying- jib-boom end, and led in on the forecastle, through a fair leader, the same as the topgallant-bowline, and the main-royal bowlines through the chock at fore-topmast head. 223.— REEF-TACKLES Are sometimes double, and also fitted with a whip, as clew- lines, or pendant and burton. When double, a single block is seized into a single strap, having a thimble in it, and the seizing passed between the block and thimble. This block goes on the bridle, or cringle, in the leech of the topsails. One end of the reef-tackle is clinched round the neck of the boom-iron, the other rove through the block, up through the sheave in the yard-arm, and through the upper sheave in the sister-block, through lub- ber's hole, and through a leading block or sheave on deck. * This piece of rope is called a span. 124 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; When single, an eye is spliced in the end of the pendant, to go over a toggle fitted to a bridle, as above ; the other end rove through the yard and sister-block, a single block spliced into the end, and a whip rove, as on the clewline. Note. — The generality of naval ships use their top-burtons with short hide-pendants ; some object to this, as the top-burtons may be wanted, when they are in use as reef-tackles. 2 2 4,— LEECH-LINES. The forward leech-lines are rove through the upper sheave-hole of a shoe-block ; both parts are then rove through a double block, hooked with a pendant to the lower cap, then through two single blocks seized to the jackstays on the yards, and are clinched to the leeches of the courses, forward of the sail. The lower legs are rove through the other sheave-hole in the shoe-block, and the standing-part made fast to the fife-rail ; the other end being used to haul up the sails. The after leech-lines are rove through blocks on the under- neath part of the yard, and clinched to the courseslibaft the sail, to the same places as the forward ones. Note. — Shoe-blocks are now pretty much out of fashion — when they are not used, both parts of the leech-lines are led on deck and the whip-purchase dispensed with. 225.— SLAB-LINES Are bent to the middle of a span at the foot of the sail, led up abaft, and rove through a block lashed to the grommet or span, around the straps of the quarter-blocks of the lower yards, and down on deck. These are very necessary in light weather, and in rough weather, may be converted into spilling-lines. 226.— ROYAL CLEW-LINES Are bent to the clews of the sail, rove through the quarter- blocks on the yard, and led either in the tops, or on deck. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 125 227.— FITTING TACKS AND SHEETS, BUMKIN- GEAR, &c. A single block is seized into a single strap, leaving an eye to fit the bumkin; this block is made with a shoulder, which lays on the bumkin when the block is on. Bumkin-braces are now generally chain ; one is hooked to the bow, and two to the cutwater ; and set up with a lanyard rove through span-shackles in their ends, and others on the bumkin. or with a turnbuckle. Reeving the tack. — Clinch the large end round the oumkin, outside the block, having been well wormed, parceled, and served, far enough towards the small end to take the block on the bum- kin, when the sail is reefed. Reeve the small end through the block in the sail, then through that on the bumkin, and in on the forecastle through a hole in the bulwarks, for the purpose. Fore sheet. — The large end is served the same as the tack, and is hooked into a bolt in the side for the purpose ; the small end is rove through the block in the sail, and through a sheave in the side, or gangway bulwarks. Large ships generally work the fore-sheet in the waist (main-deck), but it is often worked on the gangway, (spar-deck). 228.— YARD TACKLE TRICING-LINES. If no cheek on the yard, take the pendants taut along from the yard-arm, and then secure a single tail-block. On the fore- most shroud, well up, seize another single block, fitted with a single strap, leaving room when seized-in, for the seizing with which it is secured to the shroud. Round the fiddle-block in the pendant, between both sheaves, secure the tricing-line with a running-eye ; then reeve the other end through the cheek, or tail- block, and then through the single block on the shroud, and on deck. 229.— TO REEYE AND TOGGLE ROYAL-HALLIARDS. Take a round-turn with the yard-rope, well up round the strap of the block, with the long-eye ; reeve the bight through the eye and put the toggle in it ; then bring the end up from the block 126 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; seized to the eye of the shroud, and reeve it through the one on the yard-rope, send the end on deck, and reeve it through a lead- ing block. When half-hitched, the lower block is fitted as described, and secured ; the upper one is strapped with a thimble in the strap — reeve the yard-rope through the thimble, and then through the lower block, up through the upper one, and on deck through a leader. 230.— FORE STORM-STAYSAIL GEAR. To fit the stay. — Take a piece of good rope of proportionable size to the sail ; fit one end with two legs as a stay, and lash them abaft the foremast-head, the legs being placed underneath those of the standing-stay. Take a piece of rope the round of the bowsprit, inside the fore-stay collar ; splice an eye in each end, and seize a thimble in the bight — splice a lashing in one eye, and secure the strap round the bowsprit, by passing it through both eyes, until sufficient turns are taken to secure it. Reeve the end of this stay through the hanks foil the sail, then reeve it through the thimble in the strap, and set it well up with a luff-purchase ; the double block hooked to a strap well up the stay, the single one to another strap on the end ; then pass a round-seizing round both parts, close to the thimble — come up the luff, and pass another seizing between it and the end, but not at too great a distance, as it will prevent the sail from coming close down. Halliards. — Have a good strap to go round the foremast-head, close to the stay. It can be fitted with two lashing-eyes, and when so fitted can be easier taken off, and put on. When the sail is to be set, hook the double block of a luff-tackle to this strap, and the single one to the head of the sail ; the hauling- part being sent down abaft the fore-yard, and through a leading block on deck. Downhaul. — A single block is secured to the parts of the strap round the bowsprit — the downhaul is spliced to the head of the sail, then rove through the hanks, through the single block, and led in on the forecastle. When a stay is fitted, the downhaul block is seized to the strap round the bowsprit. The downhaul is often double ; if so, a single block is secured to the head of the sail, the standing-part of the downhaul secur- ed to the strap on the bowsprit, and the hauling-part led in as before. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 127 Sheets. — Deck-tackles are generally used, one on each side ; they are hooked to the clew of the sail, and the hooks well moused. When the sheet is aft, the weather one is overhauled. The after blocks are hooked to eye or ring-bolts, as convenient, and should not be too high or too low ; if too much up and down, they slack the foot of the sail ; if too high, the after leech. The falls are rove through leading blocks, and the all hooks should be well moused. Note. — These stays when set up, may be secured cutter-stay- fashion, instead of seizing the end up, which will allow the sail to haul close dowji on the bowsprit. 231.— MAIN STAYSAIL GEAR The stay is fitted the same as the fore, and sets up round the cross-piece in the fore bitts, after being rove through the hanks. The halliards are fitted the same as the fore. The downhaul is rove through a block strapped round the bitts for the purpose. If rove double they are fitted in the same manner. Instead of iron hanks, I have seen grommets used, made of pieces of rope, with a wall-knot worked on one end, and an eye spliced in the other ; these are long enough to go round the stay and becket. They are secured to eyelet-holes in the sail with a seizing, and are always kept to it. I have seen the sails set on the spring-stays, when fitted in this way, but prefer separate stays. There are also other ways of setting storm-staysails, but those I have mentioned are in most general use. When a main-trysail can be got, mizen-staysails should never be drawn, as a ship will keep much better to windward with trysails and fore-staysail, than under the staysails alone. 232.— MIZEN-STAYSAIL GEAR. The halliards are hitched to the collar of the staysail-stay, rove through a block in the head of the sail, then through a leader, and led down on deck. The downhaul is clinched to the head of the sail, and rove 128 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; through the hanks down the mizen-stay. The mizen staysail- sheet is a runner, leading through a snatch-block and thimble. A gun-tackle purchase is most commonly used, which answers all purposes. 233.— TOPMAST STAYSAILS, &c, &c. Fore. — The standing part of the halliards is seized or hitched to the fore topmast spring-stay, then rove through a block in the head of the sail, up through a leading block under the eyes of the topmast rigging, then down on the larboard side of the deck abaft the foremast. The down haul is hitched to the head of the sail, rove through the hanks, then through a block seized to the tack of the sail, and led in on the forecastle, through a fair leader. The tack is a simple lashing. The fore topmast staysail and jib-sheets are pendants lashed to the clew of the sail, with a block in the end, through which the sheets are rove ; the standing part is hooked to an eyebolt in the bows, and the running part is led in on the forecastle. Main. — The standing part of the halliards is hitched to the collar of the main-topmast spring-stay, reeving through a block at the head of the sail, then through a block at the main-top- mast head, and led down on deck. The downhaul is fitted the same as the fore, and led down by the fore-mast. The tack is rove through a block in the weather fore-rigging, or top. The main topmast staysail-brails are seized to the leech of the sail, led up through the hanks to a block seized to the upper hank, and can also be used as a downhaul. The middle, lower, and upper topgallant-staysails and jack- stays, may be fitted in one. In this case a double block is turn- ed in, and lashed to the after part of the fore-topmast crosstrees, or mast-head ; the lower part is set up in the fore-top, and the upper part at the fore-topgallant mast-head. The middle staysail-stays are rove through a single block, strapped to the topmast, down on the cap. The lower and upper topgallant staysail-stays, are rove through blocks fitted to traverse the jackstay, with lock-thimbles, the former being rove through the other sheave of the double block at the topmast cross-trees; the latter through a block at the fore-topgallant mast-head, and both led on deck. The downhaul blocks are single, and are seized to the straps of the tricing-line blocks. The halliards are whips hitched to the collars of the stays, rove through blocks in the head of the sail, OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT 129 through leading blocks at the mast-head, and down on deck. The tacks are single and led in the fore-top ; the sheets are also single, leading in the gangways. Note. — The principle object to be attended to, in reeving run- ning-rigging, is to avoid the ropes being too much crowded in one place, crossing or charing each other, or any part of the stand- ing rigging, as it not only destroys it, but also decreases the de- sired purchase to be obtained by their running clear of each other. 234.— SETTING UP RIGGING FOR A FULL-DUE. Have all the luffs on deck ; fore, main, and mizen pen- dant-tackles hooked, and tackle-falls laid along for pulling up ; new lanyards ready for reeving, seizings, mailing- spikes, levers, mallets, grease, small spars for ratling-down, triangles rigged ready for hoisting up the mast, to secure the futtock-shrouds and cat-harpen legs, (if used;) burton- falls sent on deck and rove — all the temporary ratlines cast- off — spars got up underneath the bowsprit with the gra- tings for the men to work on — topgallant-masts and flying jib-boom housed ; and also men stationed at the dead-eyes to turn in if required. Let everything go abaft the masts, commence turning in the dead-eyes, and reeve the lan- yards — set up the bowsprit-rigging and secure it. Then man the pendant-tackles, set taut the after-swifters— (if wedges in) get the mast well forward in its place, and se- cure the stays. Cast off the cat-harpen legs (if fitted), and futtock-shrouds.* Set up the rigging for a full-due, observing the same precautions as when it was first set up. The lanyard is now rove full, and when racked, take the end and form a clove-hitch above the dead-eye, then rack the surplus- end to the inside, parts of the lanyard, until the end is expended. The hitch is formed between the dead-eye and shroud, around both parts, in the space left by stretching — some use a half-hitch taken over all round the shroud, hove well back, the lanyard ex- pended, and the end seized. The ends of the shrouds are then cut square and capped, and the mats laced on. Rigging-mats are made with small rope, three-quarter-inch, * Vessels having iheir futtock-rigging set up to bands round the mast, use no cat-harpen legs, and have therefore no occasion of coming up either of the above. 130 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; and are called sword-mats. They are generally the breadth of the dead-eye, and long enough to take in both — the lanyards are laced inside. They are hardly ever used on topmast rigging; they look heavy, and are of no use, except on the forward shrouds and backstays. 235.— STAYING MASTS. The practice of "staying masts with the wedges in," has been already denounced as contrary to every received system of sea- manship. The stays may be set taut with the wedges in, but the masts should be always free in the partners, whenever there is occasion to alter the position of their standing ; because it is impossible but that the precise situation of the mast must be al- tered a little, rendering necessary corresponding alterations in the wedges. When these are made and the wedges firmly fixed, there can be no inequalities of play or pressure — the whole be- comes a solid mass, yielding naturally and uniformly to the motion of the ship. Whereas, if in setting up the rigging the wedges be kept fast, the mast pressing unequally against them, having -too much play in one part, and too little in another, it must inevitably get crippled. In preparing to set up the rigging, though the stays may not appear to require a pull, it is well to have the luffs and tackle ready; for after lifting the wedges, there is great probability of its being found necessary. 236.— BLACKING RIGGING. The most convenient method of blacking rigging, is with the topgallant masts on deck, but royal and topgallant rigging placed at the mast-heads; for then men who ride down and black the topmast-stays, can then at the same time easily black the topgal- lant and royal-stays; or, what is handier still — let the men at the mast-head haul over and black these small stays, and pay them down forward when done. The men also who black down the topmast-backstays, can carry on at the same time with the topgallant and royal-backstays. By this method the masts are kept clean. If, on the other hand, topgallant-masts be kept up when black- ing, the small stays and backstays must be let go, in order that OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 131 they may be got at by the men on the topmast-stays and back- stays ; consequently the masts must be adrift, are likely to be daubed -over with blacking, and if it should come on to blow fresh, so as to render it necessary to get the topgallant-masts on deck, much injury must result to the blacking. The topsail and lower lifts should be blackened first, the men having to stand on the yards to do them. Previous to commencing, the decks should be well sanded, and the paint-work and head covered with old canvass. The quarter- tackle should be clapped on one side of the main-yard, and also a burton hooked, ready for clearing boats. The finer and warmer the day, the better — the blacking will lay on so much the smoother and thinner ; but commencement should be delayed until the dew is well dried off. A dry calm day is the best ; for the blacking will not take effect, unless the surface it is laid upon be dry. 237.— STATIONING THE CREW. In dividing the crew into watches, care should be taken that the physical force is as equally distributed as possible, and that there be as many seamen, ordinary seamen, boys, and marines, in one watch as in another. Petty officers should be chosen from among the seamen, and those selected who have been long in the service, and have proved faithful. Forecastle men should be middle-aged seamen, with a few ordinary seamen and landsmen. Young active sea- men should be selected for topmen, also a few ordinary seamen, landsmen and boys. After-guard, a few elderly seamen, with ordinary seamen and landsmen. Waisters are chiefly landsmen, with a few ordinary seamen ; in single-decked vessels, where there are no waisters, more men should be stationed on the fore- castle and in the after-guard, in proportion to the number of the crew of the different classes of vessels. Idlers are excused from keeping watch — they are officers' servants, cooks, &c, &c. Divide each watch into first and second parts, and appoint a captain to each part ; number the men belonging to the fore- castle, having all the larboard watch even, as two, four, six, and the starboard odd; have the numbers painted on canvass, and let each man sew it on his bag and hammock ; having also for greater distinction, the larboard painted red, and the starboard black. The men should be below alternately, so that when one watch is below, there should be an equal number of the other watch on deck. 132 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR : 238.— STATIONING THE CREW AT QUARTERS. Captains of the guns should be chosen from among the sea- men who have been long accustomed to them, steady, with good sight, and quick motion. The largest and stoutest men should be chosen to man the long guns, the others the cannon- ades. The boarders should be stout men — the firemen and sail- trimmers, active young men. Be particular to station them as near where they are accustomed to do their duty as possible, in order to prevent confusion. Let all the first part of the gun's crew be in one watch, and the second part in the other, so that in the event of going to quarters in the night, the watch on deck can clear away the guns, while the watch below will clear away the hammocks. To a twelve-pounder cannonade are stationed four men and one boy. All the men stationed at the long guns of a double- decked ship, should be armed with cutlasses, and called "board- ers" — the first of the gun's crew to be called second boarders, and vice versa. They are only to be called on when required to "board," or in a case of great emergency to "repel boarders," and then every man will repair to the upper-deck, except the firemen, quarter-gunners, and powder boys, who will remain below to pro- tect the ports, or to assist in extinguishing a fire. All the men stationed at the cannonades should be boarders and sail-trimmers. As boarders, the first part should be armed with pikes ; the second part with small-arms, who are to repel the boarders, but not to quit the ship. In a single-decked ship, all the men stationed are boarders ; the first part to be armed with cutlasses, and- the second with pikes. The battery being manned, distribute the rest of the crew as follows: — have a quarter-master at the signals, when in a squad- OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 133 ron — topmen and marines in the tops, to repair damages, and act as small-arm-men — a quarter-master and two men at the re- lieving tackles — men stationed at the passages, to pass full and empty boxes; also others at the shot-lockers. Mastmen to see the rigging clear — cook, and armorer at the galley — the carpen- ter and his mates at the pumps and wings — the master-at-arms, and ship's corporal in the light-room — the gunner, his mates, quarter-gunners, and cooper, in the magazine, and the surgeon and assistants in the cock-pit. 239.— STATIONING THE CREW FOR MOORING AND UNMOORING. In stationing the men, place the same number of men, of each watch, to perform a piece of duty. When in a squadron, have quarter-masters at the signals, and also in the chains — men at the wheel — quarter-gunners to overhaul the fish, and grapple the buoys — men to overhaul and hook the cat, and attend the back- ropes ; also others at the mast, to see the rigging clear. Boat- swain's mates in the gangways ; carpenter's mates to ship and unship the capstan bars, and attend the stanchions, with the music at the capstan — some fore-topmen to put on nippers, or sel- vagees, some main-topmen to take them off, and boys to carry them forward. Hands to rouse up and veer away the cable, to attend the stoppers, and light forward the messenger. The yeo- man in the store-room — master-at-arms, and ship's corporal on the berth-deck, and cook at the galley — tierces in each tier, or chain-locker, and the remainder of the men at the capstan. 240.— LOOSING AND FURLING. Take the same number of men from each watch, and station them at the same rope, &c. The topmen are to man their re- spective yards — hands are to attend the boom-jiggers and tricing- lines — forecastle men to attend head-sails, trysail and foresail — main-yard men to look out for the main-sail — after-guard, for the spanker and main-trysail — for the main-topmast staysail, the fore-top-men — for the main-staysail, the gunner's crew — hand stationed to sheet home, and hoist the topsails, and when coming to an anchor, the same men to man the clew-lines, bunt-lines, and weather-braces ; and when loosing sails to dry, to man bow- 134 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; lines, or buntlines. In furling, the captains are to be in the bunt, in reefing-, at the earings. 241.— STATIONING THE CREW FOR TACKING AND VEERING. Station the men from the " watch bill " — have hands at the jib-boom end, to overhaul the jib-brails, and light over flying-jib sheets. On the bowsprit end to light over jib-pendants — hands on the bumkins, and in the chains, to overhaul tacks and sheets, and backstay-falls. On deck, at the wheel, spritsail-braces, jib- sheets, jib-brails, braces, bow-lines, clew-garnets, tacks and sheets, backstay-falls, lifts, trusses, spanker-sheets, guys, vangs, and top- ping-lifts. Aloft, to overhaul lifts and trusses — attend outriggers, and bear the backstays abaft and abreast — the mast-men to see the rigging clear, &c., &c. For reefing. — The men are stationed as in furling, with the exception of the captains, who are stationed at the earings. When the yards are down, the men from the clew-lines and bunt-lines will haul out the reef-tackles. 242.— GETTING READY TO BEND SAILS. It is customary to bend the light sails first, such as jibs, span- kers, and trysails. Overhaul the jib and flying-jib stay, and hal- liards, in on the forecastle. Have the lashing spliced into the sheets ready for passing, and seizings to the hanks. Overhaul down into the top the reef-tackles, and stop the- blocks to the foremost shrouds, (or the end if single.) Overhaul the topsail-sheets from the yard-arm, and half-hitch them round a dead-eye, or foremost futtock-plate. Bunt-lines into the top, and stop them to the foremost shroud, above the topsail-yard, or to the tye-blocks — clew-lines into the top, and stop them to the eye of a shroud, and get the harbor-gaskets on the yards. A rope-yarn stop will be quite sufficient for all these purposes. Both burtons should be overhauled on deck before all. Overhaul down the leech-lines, slab-lines, bunt-lines and clew- garnets, and stop them so as to prevent their flying about. Take two selvagee-straps, put them round the neck of the boom-irons, and to them hook the double-block of a long jigger ; OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 135 the single one overhaul down, and hook to a ring or eye-bolt in the bulwarks, and the fall led through a leading block a-mid- ships. Lower down the gaffs — overhaul the brails, and have seizings of two-yarn spun-yarn ready, to secure them to the sails. If hoops, seizings should also be put on them, with both ends rove through the bight. Topgallant yards should be got out of the rigging, and laid on deck out of the way, ready for bending the sails. Top-burtons overhauled down forward of all, for the topsails. Note. — When the preparations above stated are made, it is in- tended to bend all the sails together. 243.— BENDING SAILS. Call all hands to bend sails — get the courses, jib, topsails, and spanker, on deck. Open them out, and see that they are whole and complete; with the bowline-bridles, head and reef-eaiings, rope-bands, reef-points, sheet, clew-line, and reef-tackle blocks all in their proper places. Bight the topsails down in their re- spective places forward of the masts, with the clews out. Hook the lower block of the burton to the slings passed round the centre of the sail, and mouse the hook — reeve the fall through a snatch-block or leader, and keep the sail clear of the top as it goes up. Overhaul the courses athwart the deck, shackle on the sheet ; and also the tack, and clew-garnet blocks — reeve and bend the gear — stop the head of the sail to the bunt-lines, use the clew- jiggers for yard -ropes, hooking to the first reef-cringle, and stop the head earings to the block. The end of the jib-stay having been brought in on the fore- castle, reeve in the hanks, and stop the luff of the jib — hook on the halliards — reeve the downhauls — fit the brail-block and reeve the brails — hook on the sheet-blocks, or pendants, and reeve the sheets. Lower the spanker-gaff — pass the throat and peak-earings, and lace the head to the gaff — seize on the brails, and reeve them and the outhauler. All being ready, To man the gear. — First, man the top-burtons and sway the topsails clear of the deck — man the jib-halliards and downhaul — yard-ropes, clew-garnets, clew-lines, bunt-lines, reef-tackles, and gaff-halliards : at the word run out the jib, reeve and set up the stay, and seize the tack. Sway the topsails and courses up to the yards, where some hands are ready to receive them. Bend 136 THE KEDGE A.NCHOR; the gear and haul out j then take a turn with the earings — ride down the heads and pass the earings exactly ; make fast the rope- bands, fit the leech-line block of the courses — seize on and reeve the leech line. In the mean-time some hands are employed in seizing on the hoops of the trysails and spanker, as they go aloft. After the sails are all bent, it would be well to let them fall, to see that all the gear is bent clear, if so, clew up and furl the courses and topsails, and stow the jib, spanker and trysails. The topgallant-sails, royals, and studding-sails are bent on deck. Send the staysails into the tops, fit the jackstays and tricing- line blocks, seize the head of the luff; reeve the halliards, down- hauls, and brails, bend the tacks and sheets ; stow the staysails and haul all taut. Note. — The staysails are not all allowed by the new Book of Allowances. 244.— BENDING SMALL SAILS. By small sails are meant topgallant-sails, royals, flying-jib, studding-sails and staysails. It is only in ships in good order where the men go through this manoeuvre with smartness and method, after being exercised, and having become familiar with the ship and their stations. First, all the yards, topgallant, royal, and studding-sail, should be got out of the rigging, and down on deck at the same time. Next, a proportion of hands should be sent to each sail, and all bent together, including flying-jib and staysails. When the topgallant-sails, royals, and studding-sails, are all bent, they should be swayed into the rigging all together, and not one after another. If the topgallant-yards happen to be across, the best plan, if circumstances will permit, is to bend all the other small sails first, except the flying-jib, and then to wait until the yards are sent down at sunset, to bend topgallant-sails and flying-jib. Topgallant sails ought not to be bent while the yards are across, because the earings must then be hauled out, and passed over the lifts and braces, which precludes the possibility of un- rigging the yard afterwards, without unbending the sail. Some- times one of the two sets of topgallant-yards are appropriated in harbor to exercise, (sending up and down) while the other is kept below, with the sail bent, ready for crossing. OK YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 137 In bending topgallant-sails, the earings are passed the same as the topsail, and the sail seized to the jackstay, the yard-rope bent, the sails furled, and the yard got into the lower rigging. In furling, bring the leeches taut along the yard, and keep the clews in the bunt, then roll the sail up from the yard-arm, and pass the gaskets. Put the grommet over the yard-arm, man the yard- rope and sway the yard up and down ; put the lower yard-arm into the snotter, over the foremost dead-eye; secure the upper yard-arm with a lanyard spliced round the shroud for the pur- pose; it is called a stop. The lizard should be singled, ready for going aloft, by reeving it once through the thimble on the yard- arm, and half-hitch round the yard-rope with the bight. Trysails and storm-staysails should be bent at this time, if they are to be bent at all before leaving harbor. Note. — Good rope-yarns answer very well for robins for topgal- lant-sails and royals. You are never at a loss for them in bend- ing, and in unbending they are easily cut. 245.— BENDING A SPANKER. Overhaul the brails well, and pass the sail through their bights. Haul the earing in the jaws out first ; then the outer one. Splice the lacing into the outer eyelet-hole, lacing, and secure the lacing in the jaws. Bring the after-leech taut, along the gaff, and within a few inches of the blocks ; mark the place for the throat-brails, also for the peak, opposite their respective cheeks on the gaff, and seize the brails to the leech-rope, by pass- ing the seizing between the strands and round the brails. Eve- let-holes, worked close to the leech-rope, are far preferable for seiz ing the brails to. The throat-earing is generally passed through an eye-bolt in the lower part of the jaws ; but this never brings the sail close to the mast, and looks very bad. In preference, I would recommend having a score cut under the leather in the jaws, and the earing passed from the cringle through this score, and an eye-bolt on the upper side of the jaws, back through the cringle, and so on, until sufficient turns are taken to secure the sail. Large staples also are fitted to the jaws for the purpose, and keys on top, which answer better, and are more secure ; also bending battens, instead of lacing round the gaff. The outer earing is passed round a cleat on the upper side of the gaff, for the purpose. Take the earing from the cringle, pass it round outside the cleat, back through the cringle, and round the cleat, until sufficient turns are taken ; then take several inner 138 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; turns round the gaff and cringle ; frap all the outer turns together, with the remaining part of the earing, to bring the parts close, and prevent any chance of their slipping over the cleat ; take two half-hitches, expend, and seize the end. To haul out this earing, and stretch the head of the sail well, use a small jigger ; secure the double block to an eye-bolt in the end of the gaff, pass three turns of the earing, cat's-paw the end, to which hook the other block, and pull the earing well out. I have frequently seen only one earing used ; but would prefer two, as all inner turns, when much strain is on them, should have a separate earing. If a new sail, and requires much stretching, it is hauled well out before passing the earing, by hooking the in- ner block of the jigger to the cringle. Man the throat and peak- halliards, hoist the sail up gradually, seize the hoops, and reeve the lacing. Note. — Trysails are bent in the same manner. Some fit them to haul in and out on the gaff, with hoops. 246.— FITTING SEA-GASKETS. Gaskets are made with foxes, or small spun-yarn, and platted, like making sennit. The spun-yarn is middled over the bolt, and platted together, the bight forming the eye ; sometimes a piece is platted for the eye, then all worked together; if not, the eye is served over afterwards. Sea-gaskets are long enough to have only two on each yard-arm, and to furl the sail over booms and all, when close-reefed, as there will be no more sail on the yard-arms than at any other time. They are secured round the jackstay, by reeving the end through the eye ; sometimes round the yard. 247.— FITTING HARBOR-GASKETS. In making, the eye is left large enough to take a small thim- ble, then platted broader in the centre, and tapered to a small end. The broad part should be long enough to make the sail in when furled with two reefs. They may be (to look well) about two-and-a-half inches wide, but this is quite a matter of taste. When put on the yard, the thimble is put underneath the jack- stay from forward, and secured to it by a seizing passed round the neck of the gasket and jackstay, close to the thimble, and when the sail is ready for their being passed, it is taken up and rove OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 139 through the thimble, and the sail tossed well up ; the end then shoved underneath between the sail and gasket, once or twice. These always look better than any other, are easier passed and secured, and keep the sail well up. There is generally one har- bor-gasket to every other seam. 248.— BUNT-GASKETS. These are always, as to fitting, a matter of taste, but at present they are generally made of wove mat, two or three inches wide, with the two legs crossed, and an eye in each end. I have seen them made of rope, in the following manner : — Take the dis- tance between the two quarter blocks, and measure it off on deck ; drive a nail slightly into the deck at each end ; then measure from the centre the height the bunt is intended to be, and there drive another nail. Take a piece of rope, from two and a half to three-inch, and measure off sufficient to go over these nails, form ing a triangle ; splice both ends together, and seize a thimble in each corner ; put these thimbles over the nails again, and fill the space in diamonds or squares, according to fancy. The thimbles in each end are secured by the quarter-blocks to the jack- sta3*, and also in the centre. It is not necessary to have thim- bles in each end, as an eye will answer every purpose. A long sennit-gasket is middled and seized by the upper thimble ; it should be sufficiently long to go round the mast, when the gas- ket is boused up, to secure it and the bunt well into the mast. 249.— HAMMOCK GIRTLINES. . Whips are rove at the yard-arms. If rope is not used on purpose for girtlines, the studding-sail halliards will answer ; they are rove as follows : — A tail block is put on each side of the jib-boom end, and another on the spanker-boom. Overhaul down the whips, and bend them round the girtlines with a bowline knot, allowing room for their rendering through. Belay the foremost ends of the girtlines and trice vuo ; haul upon the after-part, and get all taut. A man lays out on each yard-arm, and marks the girt- line with rope-yarns where the tricing line, or a whip, should be bent ; then lower away, cast off the bowline knot, and bend%the tricing lines round the girtlines with a rolling hitch. The whips are led from the lower yards to the lower caps, through blocks hooked to the bolts, and on deck. The lower 140 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; end of the tricing-line is often bent to the girt-line as an inhaul or downhaul ; but it is best to have them separate, as it prevents walking the hammocks up, and laying across the deck; and there are plenty of other ropes' ends which will answer the same purpose. When one girt-line of a side is not enough, others are rove in- side in the same manner. The generality of ships reeve them inside of the lower rigging, as they are much easier got down, and the hammocks are not so likely to get dirty, or overboard. 250.— STOPPING ON HAMMOCKS. Every man should be obliged to have three knittle-stops at the head, and two at the foot of his hammock. When stopping on, they should overlay at each side about two or three inches, and be stopped together at the foot — numbers up and in. The forecastle-men should stop their hammocks on forward, next foretop-men, next maintop-men, next mizentop-men, next after-guard, idlers, and bo}^s. Boatswain's mates abreast of each hatchway. 251.— FURLING OR STOWING THE BUNT OF A SAIL. When the sail is nearly rolled up, hook the bunt-jigger, bouse it well up, lower the buntlines, and shove the sail well into the skin, taking pains to keep the bunt square ; pass and secure the bunt-gasket— take off the jigger — lower and square the studding- sail booms, and pass the heel-lashings. 252.— FURLING COURSES. The leeches are handed in along the yard, then the sail rolled up snug, with the ends of the points passed in towards the bunt, to give the sail a gradual increase in that direction. Pass the gaskets, lower the booms, and, if required, stop up the gear. Bowlines are stopped to the slings close down, and hauled taut on the forecastle. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 141 The bowline-bridles of all sails, in furling, are laid with the toggle towards the bunt, and bridles taut along the yard. When a sail is neatly furled, it appears neither above nor be- low the yard — earings well slewed up — sail smooth under the gas- kets, bunt square, and a taut skin. The heels of the booms should be square, and every thing necessary completed, previous io squaring the yards. 253.— MAKING UP SAILS. In making up a course, stretch the head of the sail well taut cilong the deck or loft ; bring up to the head the belly-band, then the foot, leaving the clew-blocks out at each end ; also the bow- line-bridles, and roll taut up ; pass the head-earing round the sail close inside the bolt-rope, and put a stop of good spun-yarn to every seam. The reef earings are made up in the sail. In making up a topsail, stretch the head of the sail taut along ; bring the second reef up to the head, and lay all the points and earings snugly along ; then bring up the belly-band, and then the foot. The clew-blocks, bowline-bridles, reef-tackles, and toggles or span, should be left out, so that when the sail is sent aloft for bending, the sheets can be rove, reef-tackles and bowlines toggled, without loosing the sail, which will be found of great advantage when blowing fresh. Roll well up, stop with spun-yarn at each seam, and expend the head-earings round the ends of the sail. Topgallant-sails are made up with the clews out, and bowline- bridles, (if wished,) but they are always bent to the yards on deck ; so the neater, they can be made up the better. Note. — The reef-earings of the topsails should be secured to the cringles, before rolling up ; bowline-hitch the end of the first reef-earing to the head, second to the first, third to the second, and fourth to the third reef cringles ; as there is sometimes much trouble in getting hold of an earing when it is not secured as above. All spare sails should be tallied, before being stowed in the sail- 100m, as it will prevent all mistakes ; but if a sail is properly stowed, and the master and sailmaker take a list when they are stowing, there never can be any difficulty in finding what may be wanted. Royals are made up the same as topgallant-sails. 142 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 254.— TO MAKE UP A TOPMAST STUDDING-SAIL. Stretch the sail taut along, and overhaul the downhaul through the thimble and block, and bight it along the whole length of the leech. Then roll up towards the inner leech, lay the sheets along the whole length of the sail, roll up oyer all, and stop the sail well up with spun-yarn or foxes. The earings are expended round the head of the sail when bent to the yard. Note. — The topgallant studding-sail is also made up in the same manner. 255.— FUELING FORE AND AFT SAILS, (WITH CLOTHS OR COVERS.) The jib is hauled close down, and the sea-gasket passed round it. The cloth is then placed over, and the stops tied. Eyelet- holes are made in each edge for the stops. Jib-sheets and hal- liards stopped, and hauled taut. Furling Spanker. — It is also furled best with a cover ; it can be furled in the two after cloths, the same as a jib, but it never looks so well, takes time, and in most instances has to be loosed two or three times before it gives satisfaction. In furling with a cover, the sail is brailed close up, and the cover stopped round, commencing from the end of the gaff, and working in to the mast, and down on deck. Trysails are stOAved in the same manner as spankers. The fore-topmast staysail is stowed as a jib, in the netting* Note. — Stowing fore and aft sails requires more handy-work than seamanship, the principal thing being to furl them in the smallest compass, and in the after cloths, as it brings the seams up and down. I have seen staysails admired for their neatness from the deck, when the greater part of the sails were lying loose in the top. This should be avoided as much as possible, as something should be sacrificed in appearance, to preserve a sail from injury. Taking a little trouble will get all the sail in the skin ; and although it may be larger, it can be made to look neat. Jibs require more pains taken in stowing, than any of the other fore and aft sails. There is no necessity of stowing them in their own cloths, when furling cloths are allowed. (See allowance). * Canvass bottoms are used instead of nettings, for staysails. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 143 256.— REEFING COURSES TO JACKSTAYS. When this plan is adopted there is only one point requisite, and that on the fore side of the sail ; some use two, but it is un- necessary. Reeve the point through the eyelet-hole from the after side, the points being made with eyes. Through the eyes reeve a small sized rope ; this is called the jack-line. Between every four eyelet-holes, stitch the rope well to the sail, on each yard- arm, leaving three points out. Take a piece of small rope, splice one end to the eyelet-hole in the head of the sail, reeve it through that left in the reef, and splice the other end into the same eye let hole in the head, leaving about two feet slack. This will be found of much use in gathering the sail up for reefing — it is called a grab-rope, or reef-line. 257 .— REEF-E ARINGS Are fitted the same as the head — an eyelet-hole is worked be- low the cringle, large enough to take the earing; through this put the earing, reeve the end through the long-eye, and haul it taut through. The earings are sometimes put in the cringles, but the cringle cannot be so well hauled up on the 3>ard, and consequently will not be so well secured for carrying sail ; and it not only puts more strain on the yard-arm points, but also injures the sail. They are also fitted on the bight, and passed 'on both ends; one end for the outer turns, and the other the inner turns. To pass a reef-earing. — For the first, second, and third reef, take it from the sail, on the foreside of the yard, round the cleat for the purpose, through the cringle, round the yard and through the cringle, until three or four outer turns are passed ; then reeve the bight through the* cringle from aft forward — take a round turn in the cringle ; then take the end from the latter under the yard up abaft over, and through the bight ; then back over the yard on the foreside, through the cringle, from underneath the yard ; slew the cringle well up, and leech off the sail, and pass sufficient turns to secure ; then expend the end round the yard and half-hitch round all, or a clove-hitch to the lift. A close reef-earing is passed the same way, but hauled out on the after side of the yard. Being hauled out abaft, it covers all the other reefs, and there being so much sail on the fore-side, it would never keep up. 144 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; In passing the outer turns for each reef, take two for the first ; three for the second and third, and four for the fourth. For the inner turns, expend the earing, except your earings are fitted on the bight. 258.— BENDING STUDDING-SAILS. All are bent to the yard alike, and the same precautions used as in other sails, keeping the rope next the yard. The earings are rove through the holes in the yard-arms, and cringle in the head of the sails ; two or three outer turns are taken, and the earing nearly expended in inner turns, then frap the outer turns together with the end, and half-hitch, if the sail is laced to the yard — the lacing is spliced into one eyelet-hole, rove through the other, and passed round the yard. They are sometimes bent by half-hitching the lacing, which plan keeps the sail up, and much closer to the yard. A round turn is also used, by being passed round the yard-arm and through the eyelet-hole twice, and from the latter through the next eyelet-hole, round the yard. They are then made up — the topmast studding-sail to the foremost shrouds oflfore and main rigging ; topgallant, in foremost part of the topmast rigging ; and lower, on the booms. The topmast studding-sail is also some- times kept on the booms, and tarpaulin covers fitted for them. These sails are sometimes bent with long rope-bands, and un- bent when taken in and stowed away, if dry. In making up a topmast studding- sail, when bent, overhaul the down- haul the length of the luff or outer leech ; then take the foot up to the yard, and place the tack block out. Bight the down- haul along the yard, also the sheets ; roll the sail snugly up, and stop it with yarns. Lower studding- sails are bent and made up in the same manner as topmast studding-sails, with the sheet in. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 145 I have seen these sails when placed in the rigging ready for setting, with the sheets and downhaul left out and stopped to the yards ; the tack stopped from the lower yard, up and down the foremost shroud and bent to the sail. This was done with the idea that the sail could be set much quicker ; but it was found that the sail on the opposite side (which was set in the general way), was set with less trouble, and in less time. There will be plenty of time to bend the tack and halliards (when the order is given to get ready), while getting burtons up, jiggers on topsail- lift, weather-braces taut, and rigging the booms out. Note. — The topgallant studding-sail tack is generally kept bent, and slacked when bracing the yards up. It has frequently occurred to me, when I have heard the order from the quarter-deck, in the event of setting studding-sails, " to rig out and hoist away;" how can it be possible to rig out the fore-topmast studding-sail booms, when probably there may be fifty men clapped on the lower studding-sail halliards, hauling the booms in, and seldom more than six or eight men at the most, on the in-and-out jigger, trying to get the boom out. I should recommend to rig-out and secure first, then hoist away. 259.— PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING THE WHARF AND HAULING OUT IN THE STREAM. To haul off and moor ship. — Before hauling off, all the spare spars should be hoisted in and secured, boat's chocks placed, all the stores, provisions, and water got on board ; it would be also well to see that there is a sufficient quantity of brooms, bath- brick for cleaning bright-work, lime and size for whitewash, and everything that is allowed and requisite for the ship. The complement of men from the receiving ship should be got on board, and the boats provided with crews, oars, and sails. When everything necessary is completed, make preparations for hauling off. Get up kedges and hawsers ready for instant service ; have the ends of the hawsers pointed up each hatchway, ready for handing out if wanted. Run out a kedge, and drop it where the first, or weather-anchor is to be planted ; have lines from the ship to the shore — single the fasts — hang over fenders and out- riggers — man the hawser, cast off the fasts, and warp off ; check- ing her as may be necessary by the lines. When warped out to the kedge, run it up to the bows, and let go the weather anchor ; veer as fast as she will take it assisting her in going astern by the mizen-topsail, if necessary. If to shoot her to either side, use the helm, jib, or spanker, and in case there is no wind, use kedges and hawsers. 10 146 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; When a double scope is out, stopper the cable, and let go the second anchor — furl the mizen-topsail — bring-to on the weather cable, and heave in to the moorings ; moor a little taut, to allow for veering. If a hemp-cable, clap on the service, and veer to the hawse-hole. 260.— CARRYING OUT AN ANCHOR WITH A BOAT. Hang the anchor to the stern of the boat by good stoppers, and have the buoy and buoy-rope attached to it ; pass the end of the cable or hawser out through the hawse-hole, and coil away enough of it in the bows of the boat, to reach the bottom. Now capsize the coil in the stem -sheets, and then the end will be uppermost; bend on to the anchor. There should also be a sufficient length of the hawser coiled away in the boat to reach the place destined for the anchor. When in the right place, heave over the buoy, and see that the buoy-rope is clear — stand clear of the cable, and slip the stoppers. In case of making a guess-warp, vice versa. 261.— MARKING THE LEAD-LINE. At two fathoms, two strips of leather ; at three fathoms, three strips of leather ; at five fathoms, a white rag ; at seven fathoms, a red rag ; at ten fathoms, a piece of leather with a hole in it ; at thirteen, the same as three ; at fifteen, the same as five ; at seventeen, the same as seven ; at twenty fathoms, two knots. Deep-sea lead-lines are marked the same, as far as twenty fa- thoms, then add one knot for every ten fathoms, and a strip of leather for every five fathoms. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 147 262.— HEAVING THE LEAD A hole is made in the upper part of the lead, a piece of rope rove through it, and both ends spliced together ;* an eye is spliced in the end of the line, put through this strap, the lead shoved through the bight, and hauled taut. Breast ropes are fitted in the chains, for the men to lean against when heav- ing the lead. They are made as sword- mats, tapered at each end, and secured to two shrouds, with seizings passed round them, and through the eyes in each. Heaving the lead is generally per- formed by a man who stands in the main chains to windward. Having the line all ready to run out, without inter- ruption, he holds it at a distance of nearly a fathom from the lead, and hav- ing swung it backwards and forwards three or four times, in order to acquire a, greater velocity with the swing, he then swings it over his head, and thence as far forward as is necessary ; so that by the lead sinking whilst the ship advances, the line may be almost perpen- dicular when it reaches the bottom. The person sounding then proclaims the depth of water, in a kind of singing manner. Thus : if the mark of five fathoms is close to the surface of the water, he sings out, " by the mark 5 !" and, as there are no marks at 4, 6, 8, &c, he estimates those numbers, and sings, "by the deep 4 !" &c. If he considers it to be a quarter, or a half, more than any particular number, he sings out, " and a quarter 5 !" " and a half 4 !" &c. If he conceives the depth to be three quar- ters more than a particular number, he calls it a quarter less than the next ; thus, at four fathoms and three-quarters, he calls, " a quarter less 5 !" and so on, according to the depth of the water. * A leather becket may be used for light leads, insead of a rope strap. 148 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 263.— MARKING A LOG-LINE. Allow twelve fathoms for stray line, where stick in a white rag; then at every forty-seven feet and six-tenths, mark the line as follows, viz.: at one, one leather ; at two, two knots ; at three, three knots ; and also having a mark at every half-knot. The glasses should be proved with a good watch, having a second- hand. The principle of the log-line is, that a knot is the same part of a sea-mile, that half-a-minute is of an hour; -therefore the length of a knot should be one-hundred-and-twentieth the length of a sea mile, or fifty-one feet ; but as it is more convenient to have the knot divided into eight parts, of six feet each, the pro- portional reduction is necessary in the glass. Therefore as 51 feet : 30 seconds : : 48 feet : 28, 4.17 seconds; but as the frac- tion can be more easily allowed in the line than the glass, another proportion is necessary, viz., as 28, 4.17 seconds : 48 feet : : 28 seconds to 47.6 feet, or the length of a knot. Note. — Log-lines are kept on reels for the purpose. The length of the stray-line is regulated by the size of the ship. 264.— GETTING BEADY FOR SEA. Observe and note the exact line of flotation. See that all the rigging is properly up, alow and aloft. See that the preventer- gear is on, as well as breast-ropes for leadsmen, and leads and lines in the chains. If requisite, grease the masts, jib and stay- sail-stays, lifts and trusses, and reef-pendants — sheet-anchor stowed — guns secured — boats hoisted in and secured. Care should be taken that the harness-casks are lashed — chests and OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 149 tables properly cleated, and binnacles secured. Let the armorer examine the slip-stoppers, and see that they are oiled, and in proper condition — get the swinging-booms fore and aft — awnings below, and awning ridge-ropes down — down jack-staff — see that the tiller-ropes are all clear, and that the tiller moves freely ; also that the relieving- tackles and spare tiller-ropes are at hand. Cross topgallant yards, bend the gear; take the covers off the jibs, staysail, spanker, and trysails, and coil every rope down clear, for running — have the studding-sails stopped, ready for going aloft, and the royal-halliards down on the weather side. Cat and fish overhauled down. Timenoguys in their respective places. Life-buoys in order. Accommodation-ladder unshipped and stowed away. Pendants and ladders taken off the swinging- booms — head-cranes unshipped — chafing-gear on its respective places. It would also be well to see that there is a sufficiency of sand on board. 265.— CLEAR HAWSE. Call all hauds to " clear hawse." Lash a stout single-block to the bowsprit, through which reeve the clear hawse-pendant: haul the launch under the bows, or if there is too much sea on, or she is not out, send a hand down in a bowline, and hook the pendant to the riding-cable, below the turn ; bouse them up clear of the water, after which pass a stout lashing round both cables. If there should be a heavy sea on, or the wind flawey and variable, it would be well to pass the end of a hawser out of the hawse-hole, and hitch it to the cable,* to relieve the lashing. Reeve ropes through blocks on each side of the bowsprit end, for bow-lines, and pass them in at the hawse-hole, so as to take out an elbow ; for instance — suppose the starboard was the clearing cable, take the larboard bow-line down under the cable, up into the starboard hawse-hole, and the starboard one over to the lar- board side of the cable ; then follow the lead of the larboard bow- line, bend on several fathoms inside, and stop along to the hawse- * See clear hawse-shackle and pendant. 150 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; hole ; draw the splice, or unshackle, bend on the hawse-rope, off- stoppers, and run out ; hang the bights to the bowsprit (if hemp- cable), with slip-ropes, and send in the bow-lines again, the same way as before. When the end is out, " cast off," dip it fair, and bend on again to the cable ; rouse in, slack down the slip-ropes, and splice or shackle the cable ; haul it taut with a deck-tackle, and bitt, and stopper as before. Cast off the hawser, unlash the cable, unreeve the clear hawse-pendant, unlash the block from the bowsprit end, and clear up the deck. Note. — If there is a round turn and an elbow in the hawse after rousing the cable, repeat the operation as before; it is always well to prevent confusion, by taking out one elbow at a time. A cross, is when the cables lay across each other, or when the ship has swung foul once ; an elbow is two crosses, and a round turn is three crosses ; a round turn and elbow is five cross- es. It can readily be seen thus, in clearing hawse with a round turn, a cross will be left in the cables. The anchor is fouled in the very operation of letting- it go ; the weight of the chain-cable causing the running out part to fall over and foul the stock. To avoid this, some officers pursue the practice of "letting go" the anchor with the cable bitted, which plan is strongly recommended. From the weight of the chain-cable, compared with that of the hempen, the former is less liable than the latter to foul the an- chor ; but no speculation should induce an officer to depart from that practice which can alone ensure a clear anchor. 266.— WEIGHING AN ANCHOR WITH THE LAUNCH. This may be done by under-running, when the ship has slip- ped the cable, or weighing by the buoy-rope, when the anchor is lying in too shoal water for the ship to be hove up to it. Ship the roller on the stern of the launch, have strong tackles with a jigger also, and some good rope for stoppers. Get the end of the cable over the roller ; pass a strap round it, to which hook the double block of the tackle, and the single one to a bolt in the bows; man the fall, and as the cable comes in, French-flake it along the thwarts; when the tackle comes two blocks, "stopper and fleet;" when the cable is "up and down," clap the jigger on the fall of the tackle, and heave the boat's stern well down in the water, and stopper securely. Send all the men in the bows of the boat ; jump the boat and break the anchor out of the ground ; then man the fall again, off stopper, and heave up ; when the ring of the anchor is above water, pass a short ring- stopper, haul the buoy on board, and bring the boat to the ship ; OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 151 when alongside, hook the cat, and cat the anchor. Get the end of the cable unclinched, passed into the hawse, and the remain- der hauled out of the launch. (If chain-cable, unshackle.) 267.— WEIGHING AN ANCHOR WITH A BUOY-ROPE. Get the buoy-rope over the roller, clap on a tackle, and weigh the anchor as before. When it is secured, man the capstan, heave the launch in under the bows, and cat the anchor. Anchors are generally weighed with the buoy-rope when the cable has parted, and the end cannot be grappled ; when this is the case, the anchor may be weighed with launch, brought un- der the bows and catted, and the cable unclinched and hove in ; or the ship might be warped over the buoy, and the cat-fall taken to the buoy-rope. 152 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 268.— BOATING AN ANCHOR. Place the flukes perpendicularly over the stern, and the stock a- thwart-ships in the stern sheets, resting horizontally upon a loose thwart, placed there previously for the purpose, and steady all by one or two lashings. In letting go, nothing more is required than to cant the anchor over the quarter, by means of the thwart, taking care previously that the buoy, buoy-rope, and cable, be perfectly clear. Light anchors should be boated contrary to this, i. e., flukes inboard, and stock out. 269.— TAKING IN A LAUNCH.' Brace and secure the yards the same as when getting up the anchors, and also rig the same purchases ; place the chocks, pass everything out of the launch, and hook the purchases to spans ; have a few hands in the boat to keep her clear of the ship's side. Man the yard tackle falls ; have some hands to take in the slack of the stay fall ; "walk away ;" when the boat leaves the water, take out the plug. When high enough to clear the waist anchor stock, haul over on the main stay, easing away the fore and main yards ; when the stern is over the deck, haul over the fore stay, lower, and place her in the chocks. The other boats may be got on board by the same purchases. The launch is stowed on the larboard side ; the first cutter on the starboard side ;* the second cutter, inside the launch, and the third cutter inside the first. When all are in, unrig the purchases, square the yards, and set up the gripes. The quarter and stern boats are hoisted up to their davits, and secured to them by stoppers, and the gripes set up. ♦ i. c, if the ship be a frigate or larger. Single-deck ships have but one nest of boats. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 153 270.— TAKING IN BOATS BOTH SIDES AT ONCE. The yards are kept square, and secured on both sides by the lifts, burtons, and quarter lifts. Use the winding and stay tackles for the heaviest boats, and the yard tackles for the lightest ones ; the topsail halliards forward, and the main pendant tackle aft, acting as stays to bring them on board. It may be necessary to come up the forward backstays, as they would be likely to inter- fere with the bows of the boats ; after w T hich proceed as before. Taking in a boat at sea. — Back the main-topsail, get the boat to leeward, secure the lower yards as before directed, and hoist her in. The boat coming in to leeward, tackles will be neces- sary to get her to windward sufficiently to lower away. When before the wind, a boat might be got in by securing the yards as before, and taking a hawser from aft to the stern of the boat, to keep her from sending or pitching forward when leaving the water, and thereby endangering the yards. Note. — Some of our large vessels have two sets of yard and stay tackles, for the purpose of taking in boats both sides at once ; but the above mentioned gear will answer all purposes in any case of emergency, where the manoeuvre is not considered as ex- ercising. PART IV. 271.— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH. See that the hawse is clear ; overhaul a range of the weather cable — get up nippers — pass the messenger — knock up the stan- chions — ship the gratings — ship, and swifter-in the capstan bars — rig the fish-davit — overhaul cat and fish ; and call " all hands unmoor ship." When the cable grows with the angle of the-main-stay, the ship is said to ride at a "long stay;" when it grows with the angle of the fore-stay, the ship is said to be at a " short-stay." When perpendicular, the phrase is " up and down." From one or other of the two last mentioned positions, sail is generally made in getting under^weigh. If from the nature of the ground, or strength of the wind, there should be any probability of dragging the anchor, sail is generally made from a " short stay." In such a case, particular attention ought to be paid that the head yards be not braced too sharp a-box ; for the object being to cant the ship with the least possible sternway, the sooner the head sails lift or fill the better. The jibs are hoisted the instant they will take. If, after all, the ship drags her anchor, you can pall the capstan — stopper over all. brace round the head yards, and force her a-head by the sails, as far as may be necessary ; then back the head yards, lay-to, and get the anchor up. $ If there should be so much wind and sea, as to make it a matter of difficulty to get the anchor, but plenty of sea-room, brace the yards a-box, according to the tack you wish to go upon, and get the anchor up and secured before making sail. In moderate weather, and ordinary circumstances, sail is generally made when the cable is "up and down." Sometimes a stern-board is neces- sary, with the anchor dragging on the ground ; at other times, a tack must be made in that position. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 155 If riding by the starboard cable, and no impediment to port, it will be the most eligible method, to cast her on the starboard tack, as the cable will then be clear of the cutwater, and the ship being to leeward of the anchor, it can be more easily catted and fished. If there should be much sea on, this would be the best plan. Having determined to cast on the starboard tack, overhaul the lifts, trusses, and backstay-falls. The fore-topsail being put aback, by the starboard braces ; the main and mizen by the wind, with larboard after braces, heaving around briskly, and before breaking ground, give her a shear with the starboard helm ; when up, hoist the jib, keeping the helm a-starboard, until the stern-board ex- ceeds the velocity of the tide, when shift it, grapple the buoy, and cat the anchor. When she has fallen off, so as to fill the after sails, let flow the jib-sheet, haul out the spanker, set top- gallant sails and courses, and trim the yards and sails properly. To cast off on the larboard tack, put the helm a-port, and brace the yards the contrary way. 272.— WHEN THE MESSENGER STRANDS, OR IS LIKELY TO PART. If the messenger is likely to part, from the great strain upon it, stopper immediately, and either pass a new one r or reeve a viol purchase, assisting it with the cat-fall. Lash the viol block to the cable near the hawse-hole ; clinch one end of the hawser to the main-mast, snatch the bite in the block, and take the other end to the capstan. To assist the viol, pass a strap round the cable, close down to the water, to which hook the cat-fall, and heave up on both purchases. If the messenger should strand, stopper immediately, cut it, and then knot or splice it. 156 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR: 273.— TO GET UNDER-WEIGH AND STAND BEFORE THE WIND. Make all preparations for getting under-weigh, heave-in, and make sail as before. Lay the main and mizen topsails square aback ; the fore one sharp aback, according to the side it is in- tended to cast — heave-in, cant her the right way with the helm before tripping, and as soon as the velocity of the stern-board is greater than that of the tide, shift the helm, grapple the buoy, run up the jib as soon as it will take, and haul aft the weather- sheet. While falling off, cat and fish the anchor ; as she gathers head-way, shift the helm ; when before the wind, right it — square the head yards, and brail up the jib — set topgallant sails, royals, and foresail — haul taut the lifts, trusses, backstay-falls, and if necessary, set the studding-sails. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT 157 274.— IN GETTING UNDER-WEIGH, TO BACK ASTERN AND AVOID DANGER. Make all preparations as before. If required to cast on the starboard tack, sheer her with the starboard helm ; to bring the wind on the starboard bow, brace the yards aback, about half- way up with the larboard braces ; haul out the spanker and keep the boom nearly amid-ships. Heave up briskly, grapple the buoy, and as soon as the anchor is up, put the helm hard a- weather to keep her to — cat and fish the anchor. Having made sufficient stern-board, shift the helm, brace the after yards, ease off the spanker sheet, and run up the jib. When full aft, brace up the head yards, and as she gathers headway, right the helm and make sail. To cast on the larboard tack, sheer her with the port helm, brace all sharp aback, and proceed as before. 275.— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH- EACH BEAM. ■A SHOAL ON It becomes necessary to proceed to sea, and is impossible to weather either of those a-beam ; but there is just room to pass between a shoal astern, and either of those a-beam, with the wind blowing fresh. Pass the stream cable out of one of the quarter ports ; bend on one end to the cable, and secure the other to the topsail sheet- L58 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; bitts ; draw the splice* of the cable, bend a slip-buoy to it, and heave it overboard. See the stoppers clear for slipping ; stop the topsails to the yards with spun-yarn, casting off the gaskets. Loose the courses, jib, and spanker — mast-head the topsail-yards — man the jib-halliards — sheer her from the cable with the helm —slip and run up the jib— keep fast the stream-cable, and let her swing round. When she heads for the passage, slip the stream-cable, right the helm, sheet home the topsails, set the courses, and other sails if necessary ; then stand through the passage. 216.— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH IN A NARROW CHANNEL. At anchor in a narrow channel, riding to a strong leeward tide, and blowing fresh ; a ship astern, and also one on each quarter, so near that there is not room to wear, for casting ; it is ne- cessary to put to sea, and to do so a passage must be ef- fected between the two ships. Make all preparations for getting under-weigh, and heave-in as described before. Loose the topsails ; if riding by the star-board cable, give her a rank sheer with the starboard helm : set up the starboard back- stays, and bear aft the larboard ones ; overhaul lifts and trusses ; haul out the spanker, and get the boom over on the larboard quarter ; lead along the main tack and sheet ; run up the jib, and haul aft the weather sheet ; " Heave round cheerily ;" run the anchor up, grapple the buoy, and as soon as she fills, meet her with the helm ; board the main tack to catch her; trim the jib and spanker sheets, set the foresail, and trim sharp ; haul taut the bowlines ; stand on as far as may be necessary. Note. — A good deal of uncertainty attends this manoeuvre ; if there is room, it would be the best plan to lay the yards aback. It is confidently asserted by old experienced seamen, that the above method is perfectly practicable. * If chain cable, unshackle. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT 159 27 7.— HEAD TO WIND, CAST ON STARBOARD TACK. Everything having been previously prepared, heave in and make sail as before. Sheer her with a starboard helm ; brace the head yards sharp up with the starboard braces, and counter brace the after ones ; haul out the spanker, and get the boom on the larboard quarter ; heave in, and up anchor ; up jib as soon as it will take ; and when the stern-board exceeds the velocity of the tide, shift the helm. When the after sails are full, trim the spanker, let flow the jib sheet, cat and fish the anchor, haul aft the jib sheet, brace round the head-yards, and make sail. 278.— WINDWARD TIDE— GET UNDER-WEIGH AND STAND BEFORE THE WIND. Make all preparation for getting under- weigh, heave in, loose jib, up anchor, grapple the buoy, run up the jib, cat and fish the anchor, and make sail with expedition. If it is necessary to have the ship under greater command, as might be the case in a narrow channel, or crowded harbor, : t would be better to proceed as follows : — Heave in to a " short stay," loose the courses, topsails, jib and spanker. If riding by the starboard cable, sheer her with the 160 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; starboard helm, and bring the wind on the larboard quarter . brace the yards to, by the larboard braces, and keep them shiver- ing by the helm. " Heave up ;" fill the after yards, and square the head ones ; haul aft jib sheet on starboard tack ; cat and fish the anchor ; up helm; fill the head yards, shiver the after ones, get her before the wind, and make sail. 279.— TO GET UNDER-WEIGH, AND STAND OUT ON A WIND. Make all preparations — commence heaving in ; loose jib and spanker ; top up and bear over the boom on the right quarter, and the helm to the side which it is intended to cast ; "heave up ;" get the buoy ; haul out on the spanker as soon as it will take. When the wind gets abeam, run up the jib, and meet her with the helm ; cat and fish the anchor ; loose, sheet home, and hoist the topsails, brace up, bring by and make sail. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 161 280.— RIDING HEAD TO TIDE, WIND ON THE STAR- BOARD QUARTER, TO GET UNDER-WEIGH ON THE STARBOARD TACK. Make all preparations, heave short, loose sails, sheet home and hoist the topsails, bracing them to with the starboard braces ; keep them shivering, by the assistance of the topsails and helm, — " heave round," — break ground — put the helm a-starboard — brace full the head yards — run up the jib, and let her pay round to port ; heave up the anchor, and grapple the buoy. Haul out the spanker as soon as it will take — shift over the head sheets. and square the head yards — trim aft the jib-sheet, and meet her with the helm. Cat and fish the anchor, and make sail as neces- sary. 281,— GETTING UNDER-WEIGH— WIND ACROSS THE TIDE. In getting under- weigh, say ebb-tide, make all preparations, loose, sheet home, and hoist the topsails ; brace up the fore and mizen topsails, and lay the main yard to the mast. Give her a spoke or two of the lee wheel, so as to take the main -topsail well aback. il Heave up," cat and fish the anchor, and grapple the buoy ; at the same time, set the jib and spanker — fill the main yard, stand on to a convenient place, and then tack or veer. The evolution is determined by the circumstance of there being more room to windward or to leeward. Flood- Tide. — Proceed as before, until the anchor is catted and fished ; then hoist tb* ]}h t haul out the spanker, fill the main- topsail, and stand -y/, making whatever sail may be judged necessary. 11 162 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 282.— TO BACK AND FILL IN A TIDE-WAY. This manoeuvre is only executed when a ship is to proceed up or down a rapid river against the wind, which is sup- posed to be light, and may be done by two methods, viz., driving before the wind, or broadside to it. When the channel is broad enough, the latter method is preferable, as the ship will be more under the command of her helm. 283.— DRIVING BEFORE THE WIND. This is only done in a very narrow channel. Heave up the anchor, and get her before the wind, with just sail enough to keep her so. Suppose her under top- sails, and as she drops with the tide, it becomes necessary for her to remain sta- tionary, to allow a ship to pass her stern, — set topgallant-sails, and if required to shoot ahead, drop the foresail. If to avoid a rock, or ship astern, put the helm up or down — haul out the spanker — brace up, and haul aft the jib-sheet, as she comes too ; shoot across until clear of danger, when put the helm up, brail up the spanker, shiver the after yards, and when before the wind, brail up the jib. If in standing across, she should get too near the shore — get heron the other tack, by wearing or box-hauling. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 163 284.— DRIVING BROADSIDE-TO. Get under- weigh, and bring her by the wind under the jib, topsails, and spanker ; shiver the topsails ; when filled, stand on to the middle of the channel ; brail up the jib and spanker, and let her drift in this situation until she falls off, which she will soon do, owing to her greater immersion aft than forward, which will drift her stern farther to windward. Haul out the spanker, and if this is insufficient, back the mizen-topsail ; if she still falls off, back the main also, both square aback, and if she should get a stern-boa id, put the helm hard a-weather ; should she come-to again, shiver the topsails, and brail up the spanker, letting her drift as before. 285.— SECURING THE SHIP FOR SEA. Take the departure, give the course, and make sail. Beat to quarters — examine the magazine — load, shot, and secure the guns — see that all the gear of the guns is ready for service, and secured. Fill the shot-boxes, rack, and wad-nets — get the anchors on the bows, and lash them — unbend the cable and buoy-ropes ; if clean and dry, pay them below ; also the messenger, hawsers, stoppers and nippers, and cable-mats, put in the buckles — unreeve, cat and fish, and coil them away below. Get chafing-mats on the yards and rigging — see the booms and boats secured, pumps in good order, and the gratings and tarpaulins ready for putting on. Overhaul the storm-staysail gear, see everything ready for service, and stow it below again. 286.— STOWING THE ANCHORS FOR SEA. The anchors being catted and fished, clap a stout tackle on them and cat-head stoppers ; pass a good lashing through the ring and over the cat-head — expend the stopper in the same way. Hook the pendant-tackle to a strap around the shank — weigh the crown, and bouse the fluke into the bill-port by a thwartship tackle ; having another tackle clapt on the end of the anchor-stock which is uppermost, getting it as close to the side as the stock will permit ; pass stout shank-lashings also around the stock and cat-head. Unbend the cable and buoy-rope. 164 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; Note. — The waist-anchors are securely stowed when they are first got on board. Some ships use preventer lashings and jump- ers in bad weather, when the ship is lurching in a heavy sea, or when liable to ship seas in the waist. 287.— SETTING TOPGALLANT SAILS— BLOWING FRESH. Point the yards to the wind, and loose the sails ; sheet home first to leeward, and then to wind- ward — having a hand to leeward to light the foot over the topmast stay ; hoist away, trim the yards, and haul taut the bow-lines. Note. — In setting topgallant sails over single-reefed topsails, see that the sheets are out square alike. 288.— SETTING COURSES. Moderate weather. — Man the fore and main-tacks and sheets, attend the rigging — have hands on the lower yards to overhaul it — haul aboard — check the top bow-lines, weather lower lifts, and OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 165 a little of the lee-main-brace — avast the sheets ; get the tacks close down, and then haul aft the sheets — haul taut the main- brace, lifts, trusses, and bowlines. Blowing fresh. — Man well the sheets, overhaul the leech-lines and lee-bunt-lines ; ease down the lee-clew-garnet, slack top bowlines, lower lifts, and lee-main-braces, until the tacks are down ; then haul aft the sheets, haul taut the lee-main-brace, weather lifts and bow-lines, and, if necessary, hook and haul taut the rolling-tackle, to ease the trusses. 289.— SETTING THE SPANKER. Top-up the boom, overhaul lee-topping-lifts, attend the sheets and weather-guy ; haul over the lee-guy, and trim the boom — man the outhaul and attend the brails and vangs — let go the brails, haul out and steady the gaff by the vangs. Note. — The weather-vang should never be hauled, or boused too taut, as it may be the means of carrying away the gaff, especially when using trysails as storm-sails. 290.— SETTING THE JIB. Cant the spritsail- yard to steady the boom ; man the hal- liards and sheet — see the down- haul and brails clear, take in the slack of the sheet to steady the sail; "hoist away;" and as the sail goes up, ease off the sheet — when taut up, haul aft the sheet. 166 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 291.— SETTING LOWER STUDDING-SAILS. When the boom is out or a-thwartships, and trimmed with the fore yard, the outer halliards and outhauler are to be well man- ned, taking in the slack of the inner halliards, as the sail goes over the gunwale, and ultimately reaches its destined height. In running away with the lower halliards, care must be taken that the yard be not brought up with a jerk, against the topmast studding-sail boom ; by this sudden jerk booms are liable to be sprung. 292.— SHIFTING A COURSE AT SEA. Moderate weather. — In shifting a course at sea, with the watch, and with time to prepare everything for a smart and pretty evolution — get the spare sail up from below, and first of all stretched across the deck. Then, the course being set, stop per the (tack and sheet) clews, and unbend tacks, sheets, clew- garnets, and leech-lines, bending them forthwith to the spare sail ; and, when done, untoggle the bowlines, and send the hands aloft — trice up, lay out, cast off robins and earings, and make the two midship robins fast to the bunt-lines — ease in the earings together, and make them also fast to the buntlines a-midships. Lower the sail by the bunt-lines, and gather it in by hand. Un- bend the bunt-lines, bend them to the spare sail, and take out the yard-ropes. Divide the watch to the yard-ropes, bunt-lines and clew-gar- nets, and haul taut ; haul out and up all together — hands aloft bring- to, and when brought-to, haul on board. Blowing fresh. — First haul the sail up and furl it; then pro- ceed to make fast the midship robins and earings (when cast off) to the bunt-lines, and to lower the sail down by the clew-garnets, as well as buntlines. Note. — In this case the weather-tack and sheet is of much use in hauling the sail in as it comes down. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. Iflf 293.— TAKING IN A COURSE IN A GALE OF WIND. Steady the yard as securely as possible, man the clew-garnets, bunt-lines, and leech-lines ; ease away the tack and bow-line — haul up to windward, ease off the sheet, haul up, get the sail close to the yard, and furl it. It is a common practice in clewing-up a course, to let go the bowline upon starting the tack. Neither the tack nor the bow- line should be let go, but each eased off handsomely by hand. By the adoption of this plan, the sail will bag less to leeward, and the weather-clew can be hauled up with greater ease ; but both buntlines should be well manned, and even better manned. than the weather clew-garnet. When the latter gear is well up, walk away with the clew-garnet, easing steadily the sheet. But all these precautions will be of little avail, unless there be a good preventer-brace upon the lower yard; or else the yard tackle be hooked to act as such, and brought sufficiently aft to prevent the tackle bringing too great a strain in an up-and-down position upon the upper yard-arms. 294.— TAKING IN A TOPSAIL IN A GALE OF WIND Steady well the topsail and lower yards, rounding in the wea- ther topsail brace as much as possible. Man the clewlines and buntlines ; attend the sheets and bowlines ; clew up the lee-sheet, and haul up the buntline. If to save the yard, haul up to lee- ward first, point the yard to the wind, and steady it again ; lay out and furl the sail. There appears to be still a dispute among seamen as to the preferable method of effecting this service. When the mast is not considered in danger, and the object be to save the sail, or to ease the ship, the weather clew may be first lifted. But before starting the weather sheet, it would be well to ease first a few feet of the Zee-sheet, in order to lessen the labor of rounding in the weather brace. So soon as the lee-sheet be suffi- ciently eased to admit of the yard coming in with the weather brace, and both buntlines be as well manned as the weather clewline, the weather sheet may be then eased off, and the wea- ther cle vline hauled up, with every prospect of saving the sail. If there be plenty of sea room, and the ship can be kept away, some officers recommend the practice of bringing the wind abaft the beam, and then hauling up the lee-clewline first — taking the precaution to have both buntlines well manned. When this operation is effected, the weather clewline may be hauled up, 168 *1'HE KEDGE- ANCHOR; rounding the brace in, as the ship is again gradually brought to the wind. It will require particular attention to the helm when hauling up the weather clewline, though with judicious manage- ment, the helm alone is sufficient to spill the sail. 295.— TAKING IN TOP-GALLANT SAILS. Man the topgallant clewlines ; lay aloft, and stand by to furl the sail ; attend the braces, bowlines, sheets, and halliards ; round in the weather braces, ease away the lee-sheet and hal- liards ; " lower away ;" ease away the weather sheet, clew up, haul up the buntlines ; steady the yard, lay out and furl the sail. 296.— TAKING IN A SPANKER. Have the brails and weather vang well manned ; attend the outhaul and lee vang ; ease away the outhaul ; haul over on the weather vang ; brail up to leeward ; ease off the_ sheet ; haul taut the weather brails ; pass the foot gaskets ; steady the gaff, and crutch the boom. 297.— SETTING A CLOSE-REEFED TOPSAIL. Point the yard to the wind, and brace the lower yard a little sharper than the topsail yard. Man the sheets, attend the bunt- lines, and loose the sail ; overhaul the lee-buntline, ease down the lee-clewlines, and haul home the lee-sheet ; ease off the weather buntline ; at the same time slack down the weather clewline, and haul home the weather sheet. Hoist the yard up clear of the 6ap ; brace up, and haul the bowline ; steady the lower and top- sail yards with the braces and rolling-tackles. Note. — It must be remembered that a close reefed topsail will not sheet close home, as the yard is to hoist clear of the cap. 298.— A CLOSE-REEFED TOPSAIL SPLITS. Clew up the sail and steady the yard ; cast off some of the rope- bands, so as to pass stops around the sail to secure it. Unbend the sheets, bowlines, and lee-buntlines ; unreeve lee-clewline and OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 169 reef-tackle ; bend the weather buntline round the sail, and make the lee-earing fast to the buntline ; hook a burton to a strap round the sail, cast off all the rope-bands, and lower away ; ease away the weather earing and lower the sail on deck. Stretch along the new sail, overhaul it, then reef the sail at the foot, com- mencing at the close reef, and taking in each of the three lower reefs separately ; then bight it down, and send it aloft, as describ- ed before, observing to use the burtons before all. Reeve and bend the gear, stopping the head of the sail to the buntlines ; have yard-jiggers hooked to bring the sail to the yard — pass the earings and rope-bands, in the same manner ; bring the first reef to the yard, cast out the other reef, haul up the sail ; then bring the reefs to the yard alternately, after which set the sail as before. 299.— A JIB SPLITS. Mind the weather helm, haul the sail down, and hoist the fore- topmast-staysail. Hitch the downhaul around the body of the sail, and also pass stops around it — take the end of a rope from the forcastle, and bend it on to haul in by. Turn out the jib- stays, bend a line on to the end and unreeve it — haul taut the halliards — ease off the downhaul, and haul in. Get up, and overhaul the spare sails ; seize on the sheet, bend the halliards and downhaul — stop the sail, and haul out by the downhaul and halliards — reeve the jib-stay, turn it in, and set it up ; pass the tack-lashings, reeve the brails, set the jib, and haul down the staysail. 300.— TO WEAR SHIP UNDER CLOSE-REEFED MAIN- TOPSAIL AND STORM-STAYSAILS. Call all hands" wearship," and station them ; have lifts, trusses, and rolling-tackles attended, so the yard and topmast may be well supported in the heavy rolling which they are likely to experi- ence. Haul down the mizen storm-staysail, and when she falls off, up helm ; ease off the main storm-staysail sheet, and brace in the main and cross-jack yards ; at the same time taking care to keep the maintopsail full, to preserve the head-way, and to keep her a-head of the sea ; also to keep it from splitting. When the wind is on the quarter, haul down the main storm-staysail, and shift over the sheet ; when before the wind, right the helm, and square the head yards; shift over the fore storm-staysail sheet ; watch for a smooth time to bring-her-to ; then ease down 170 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; the helm, hoist the mizen storm-staysail, and when the wind is on the quarter, brace up the yards, hoist the main storm-staysail, haul aft the fore storm-staysail sheet, meet her with the helm, trim the sails, and haul the maintop-bowline. 301.— WEARING UNDER A MAINSAIL. Make fast a hawser to the slings of the main yard, take it down forward of the sail, haul it well taut, and belay it to the topsail sheet bitts. Call all hands and station them as in the last case ; take advantage of her falling off to put the helm up. Ease off the main sheet, and gather in the lee tack, using the yards as in ordinary cases. Should she not go off, send down the cross-jack yard, and mizentopsail yard ; house the topmast, and get a drag over the lee quarter, after which proceed as before in bracing the yards, and bring by the wind. 302.— WEARING UNDER BARE POLES. Send down the after yards and mizen topmast, and bend a hawser to it in-board. Send men in the weather fore rigging with tarpaulins ; up helm, and make use of the yards as usual. If she should not go off, it will be necessary, as a last resort, to cut away the mizen mast, veer away the hawser, and use the mizen topmast as a drag to assist in wearing. 303 CUTTING AWAY THE MASTS. Clear away all the running rigging attached to the mast, cut away the lanyards of the lee rigging ; then the lanyards of the stays and weather rigging. 304.— LAYING-TO UNDER LOWER STAYSAILS, WEAR SHIP. If it does not blow too fresh, the close-reefed mainsail may be set, as some lofty sail is necessary, to prevent the ship from being pooped ; then proceed as in veering under bare poles. If she should not go off, clap a lashing round the bunt of the foresail, and set the weather goose-wing. Should she still not go off, send down the after yards and mizen topmast, making a drag of them. If they have no effect, cut away the mizen mast. PART V. 305.— PRECAUTIONS FOE SCUDDING. When scudding in a heavy gale of wind, care should be taken that sufficient of lofty sail be carried on the vessel, to keep her freely and fairly before the sea. A ship will scud better with the sea right aft, than quartering. With a heavy sea, the danger to be apprehended is, that the wave traveling faster than the ship, may overtake and break over her. To avoid this, and diminish its danger, some such sail as a close-reefed topsail or foresail is generally kept set as long as possible ; but there are times when the foresail is not the best suited, nor the safest for scudding. Some ships that steer badly, and manifest an inclination to yaw, w T ill be more steadily steered, and easier managed when scudding under the fore-topsail and fore-staysail. Should the ship happen to broach-to, the foresail, in such a perilous situation, is an un- wieldy and unmanageable sail to clew up ; and when the sea strikes the ship on the quarter, and causes her head to round-to in the direction ot the wind, the main-topsail tends to assist the sea in producing this dangerous movement ; whereas, the fore- staysail, together with the fore-topsail, produces the contrary effect. It is deeply laden ships that are most liable to get pooped ; in which circumstance, a skilful foresight must be exercised in lightening them. Relieving-tackles should be hooked, and hands stationed to at- tend them ; spare tiller and rudder-chocks at hand, and perfectly ready for use ; for, if the ship should get pooped with a heavy sea, the tiller is likely to get snapped, the ship to broach-to, and the rudder, if not quickly secured, to be unhung, and after damaging the stern, to be lost. Wreck then almost immediately follows. When using the foresail, a tackle hooked to the lee fore-tack would be of service in filling the sail. 172 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 306.— SCUDDING— A SHIP BROACHES-TO. Meet her with the helm, and lee head braces, if necessary ; shiver the after yards ; should she still come-to, and the sails are taken aback, brace about the head yards, and if necessary, use the helm. If she should get tod much stern-board in falling off, haul up the foresail, and pay her off with the fore storm-staysail ; fill the after yards as soon as possible, to gather headway, and when she has fallen off sufficiently, brace about the head yards, and trim as before. Note. — As in scudding, the safety of the ship depends entirely upon the steering, the greatest care should be taken that a steady and expert helmsman is stationed at the wheel, and that when his " trick" is out, and his " relief arrives to take his place, that he resigns not his hand at the helm, until his successor is in fall possession of the easiest method of steering the ship. The officer of the deck should also direct a compass to be placed in the gun-room, and be cautious that a competent seaman is there to attend the relieving tackles, and watch closely the steer- age of the ship by the compass-card. In frigates, and particularly flushed-decked vessels, whose bin- nacle-lights are liable to be extinguished by the wind, precaution should be taken that lighted lanterns are kept in readiness to supply the place of the blown-out lights. On dark and starless nights, when the steersman has no other guide to govern his steer- age than the compass-card, it is of the utmost importance that attention should be paid to this particular ; as in a number of in- stances the accident of broaching-to maybe traced to the "blow- ing out" of the binnacle lights, and carelessness of the helms- man. It requires a quick, small helm to steer a ship when scud- ding. 307.— SCUDDING.— BROUGHT BY THE LEE. A ship is said to be " brought by the lee" when struck aback by a change of wind. If she has headway, which will probably be the case, put the helm a- weather, but if she has stern way, the contrary. Brace round the after yards, and when they are full, the head ones. This is the principle of tacking, but it is not thought as well when scudding in a gale, as the ship might get too rapid sternway, which would be dangerous in a heavy sea. As the object is to preserve the headway, the yards are braced round as soon as possible. If scudding under the main-topsail, and it becomes necessary to reduce sail, take in the fore-topsail, OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 173 for the main being nearer the centre of gravity, has less tendency to bury the ship, and she is consequently more easily steered. When scudding under the main-topsail and foresail, the ship is to be brought by the wind, and she should have a tendency to gripe, keep the foresail on her ; but if otherwise, take in the fore- sail, and set the fore storm-staysail ; brace up the head yards, then the after ones. Watch for a smooth time, and ease down the helm, taking care to meet her in due time. The reason for bracing up the head yards before luffing, is, in scudding the ship has a rapid headway, and will mind the helm very quickly ; moreover, the sea acting with violence on the quarter, will throw her up into the wind, and unless the head yards are braced up so as to prevent that, she will be in the same situation as if she had broached-to. 308.— HEAVING-TO. Having determined from the known quality of the ship, what sail would be best to heave-to under ; bring by the wind as in the previous subject. If intending to lay-to under a main-topsail, when by the wind, haul up and furl the foresail, down foretop- mast-staysail ; if under lower-staysails, hoist them ; at the same time taking in the foresail and main-topsail. The helm is kept a-lee while laying-to, but not lashed down, it being considered best to have a little steerage-way on. Note. — It is best to bring by the wind under the square-sails, as the sLip is more under command than she would be if they were furled. 309.— TAKING IN A LOWER STUDDING-SAIL— BLOW- ING FRESH. This is a much nicer operation than young officers generally are inclined to admit, and unless executed with caution and skill on the part of the officer " carrying on the duty" on deck, the proba- bility is, the topmast studding-sail boom will snap short in the iron, and the sail, swinging-boom gear and all, will have to be recorded in the log as " expended." When not sailing in a squadron, and the yaicing of the ship be a matter of minor im- portance, the officer of the watch is recommended to proceed as follows : — Place a steady helmsman at the wheel, and stand close to him ; man well the sheet, and lead it well aft along the deck ; also see 174 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; that steady hands attend the tack and guys. When perfectly prepared, direct the helmsman with a " small helm," to bring the wind gradually on the opposite quarter, and the moment the body of the sail begins to lose the breeze, and the canvass in- clines to shiver, lower the outer halliards, ease the tack, and haul in on the sheet as rapidly as possible, lowering the inner halliards at the same time. Note. — More booms are sprung, and even snapped short in the iron, from the sudden jerk produced by lowering the lower hal- liards, when the sail is straiuing and bellying to the breeze, than by even carrying a powerful press of canvass. And here it may be well to impress upon the mind of the young seaman, that a judicious management of the helm, in almost every situation in which it can be placed, will not only aid the physical strength employed, but also greatly facilitate the service sought. 310.— TO UNBEND A TOPSAIL IN A GALE OF WIND. Those who know the value of minutes to men perched aloft in a perilous position, will adopt that method which will event- ually cost the least time and trouble. The sail should be first furled, then detached from the yard, and sent down on deck (slung amidships) by the long tackle* hooked at the topmast-head, and steadied forward clear of the top-rim by the weather or lee boAvline, according to the side on which the sail is to be sent down. (See 298). Should the ship be rolling or pitching to any extent, and it is not deemed prudent to lower the furled sail " before all, " the sail may be sent down through lubber's hole. This method will de- pend entirely upon the motion of the ship. 311.— SECURING IN A GALE. See that the yards which have sails set upon them are not un- necessarily sharp up ; that the yards whose sails are furled are hoisted clear of the caps ; that the runners and tackles are up in good time ; that all unnecessary strain is taken off the rigging ; and that mats are carefully placed wherever a chafe is likely to occur, such as at the bunts of the furled sails, and at the lee quarters of the yards, which are braced up against the rigging. See also that the fore and main sheets, if set, be checked a Generally called the top-burton. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 175 little ; the weather lifts and trusses well up and taut ; jiggers on topsail lifts, and studding-sails out of the rigging ; anchors and guns properly secured ; and in a small vessel, the hatches bat- tened down, extra on boats, spare spars, &c, &c. 312.— PREPARATIONS FOR A HURRICANE AT SEA. Endeavor to get sea room ; if you have it, run before the wind. The captain and first officer to cunn the ship ; two or three of the best men to steer ; the master to keep the time, and the courses steered, and have the ship's place kept worked up. Previous to its coming on, have a life-line set up on each side of the deck. Furl all sails, and secure them with studding-sail tacks as well as long gaskets ; batten down the hatches, and have the relieving tackles on the tiller ; down topgallant-yards, and send topgallant-masts on deck, and flying jib-boom in. Clear the tops ; gafTs down ; rudder-chocks and spare tiller at hand ; axes and hawsers at hand ; scuppers clear ; pumps ready. Let each man wear a belt to secure himself if required to the most convenient place ; keep the after yards square ; head yards thrown forward, and have the fore-staysail set with double sheets. 313.— PREPARATIONS FOR A HURRICANE AT AN ANCHOR, (with notes on the Barometer.) The ship should be moored with a whole cable each way if in harbor, or if in an open roadstead, veer to a hundred fathoms on each anchor. The more your berth is out of the way of other ships, the bet- ter, as vessels driving, or getting adrift, occasion much damage to those who might otherwise have held on. If moored, the sheet cable to be bent and ranged, and the an- chor let go, and veer on the bowers to the clinches. All the ground tackle you have should be used. Have a shackle abaft the foremost stopper, on each cable, ready for slipping if ab- solutely necessary, to prevent swamping, or from other causes. Batter down fore and aft. Down topgallant yards and masts. If time, unbend sails (topsails and courses, I mean). Strike lower-yards and topmasts. Get yards as much fore and aft as possible. 176 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR . Jib-boom eased in. Keep try-sails and fore stay-sail bent, and the former reefed. Unreeve the running rigging, that nothing may be aloft to hold the wind. Clear the tops. No boats to be above the gunwale. Axes and hawsers up ready. If anchors drag, cut away lower masts- first cut and cleared. Remember the stays. -the rigging being Notes and remarks on the Barometer. As the force of the wind is what is requir- ed for service at sea, the following would be SCALE OF BAROMETER AT PRESENT. better understood. Inches. Inches. 31.0 Very dry. 30.5 Set fair. 30.5 Very settled. 30.0 Fair. 30.0 Fine weather. 29.7 Unsettled. 29.5 Changeable. 29.5 Gale. 29.2 Storm. 29.0 Rain. 29.0 Violent storm. 28.5 Much rain. 28.5 Tempest. 28.0 Stormy. When the mercury falls in the Barometer, it announces rain, or wind, or in general what is called bad weather j and, on the contrary, when il rises, it announces fair weather. When the mercury falls in frosty weather, either snow, or a thaw may be expected ; but if it rises in the winter with a north or east wind, it gen- erally forebodes a frost. If the mercury sinks slowly, we may expect rain, which will probably be of some continuance ; but if it rises gradually, we may expect fine weather that will be lasting. When the Barometer is fluctuating, rising and falling suddenly, the weather may be expected to be like it — changeable. When the mercury falls very low, there will be much rain ; but if its fall is low and sudden, a high wind frequently follows. When an extraordinary fall of the mercury happens, without any re- markable change near at hand, there is some probability of a storm at a distance. In very warm weather the fall of the mercury indicates thunder. The Barometer will descend sometimes as an indication of wind only, and sometimes rise when the wind is to the north or east. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. \f7 A north-east wind generally causes the Barometer to rise, and it is gen- erally low with a south-west wind. An extraordinary fall of the mercury will sometimes take place in sum- mer previous to heavy showers, attended with thunder ; but in spring, au- tumn, and winter, it indicates violent winds. The mercury is higher in cold than in warm weather, and lower at noon and midnight than at any other period of the day. The mercury generally falls at the approach of new and full moon, and rises at the quadratures. Before high tides, there is almost always a great fall of the mercury; this takes place oftener at the full than at the new moon. The greatest changes of the Barometer commonly take place during clear weather with a north wind, and the smallest risings during cloudy, rainy, or windy weather, with a south or nearly south wind. The words generally engraved on the plate of the Barometer, rather serve to mislead, than to inform ; for the changes of weather depend rather on the rising and falling of the mercury, than on its standing at any par- ticular height. When the mercury is as high as " fair," and the surface of it is concave, (which is the case when it begins to descend,) it very often rains ; and on the contrary, when the mercury is opposite "rain," and the surface of it is convex, (which is the case when it begins to ascend,) fair weather may be expected. These circumstances not being duly attended to, is the princi- pal cause that many people have not a proper confidence in this instru- ment. For sea-service, it would be as well to read the Barometer off three times a day at least — at 8 a. m., noon, and 8 f. m. — and oftener if bad weather. In Europe, if the alteration in the quicksilver should be in as great a proportion as six-tenths of an inch to twenty -four hours, sudden but not lasting changes of weather may be expected. If the alteration should be gradual, probably in the proportion of two or three-tenths to twenty-four hours, the weather indicated will be likely to last. One-fifth of the variation of the Barometer, in any climate, in twenty- four hours, may be considered as an indication of sudden change. If wind should follow rain, the wind may be expected to increase. Ram following wind is likely to lull it, and the wind may be expected to abate. 12 178 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR. 314.— THE FOREMAST IS CARRIED AWAY. Hard up the helm, brace in the after yards, hoist the main- staysail, take in after sail, and endeavor to get before the wind ; if successful, keep her so, by veering a range of cable over the stern, and lashing it amidships ; if not, which is most likely to be the case, and should carry away the main-topmast also, lay her to under the main-staysail. If the main-topmast should stand, clew-up the main-topsail immediately, get the breast back- stays over the topsail-yard, and set them up as far forward as possible, by means of tackles. Bend hawsers on the wreck, clear it away, especially the lanyards of the lee-rigging, so as to pre- serve the channels and chain-bolts, and endeavor to haul it aboard. Send down the after yards and spars, and save as much of the wreck as possible. Rig a jury-foremast, fitting spars and sails to the best advantage ; when the jury-mast is rigged, reeve a main-topmast stay, of a hawser, and take the breast-backstays aft again, after which cut clear of the wreck, if not required. 315.— TO RIG A JURY-MAST. ' Take a spare spar, the largest on board, a main-topmast for instance, and launch the head over the night-heads, the heel resting against the stump of the old mast ; put on the cross-trees and bolsters, fit the rigging and stays from hawsers, and hook a couple of tackles from the jury-mast head — which take to the sides and haul taut ; hook another, which take well aft ; lash the heel of the stump to prevent slipping, and raise the mast with the after purchase, tending the stays and pendant-tackles ; when up, reeve the lanyards, set up the rigging and stays. Cleet and lash the heel securely. Ship the cap, send up a topgallant-mast for a topmast, fit a topsail yard for a lower yard, and a topgal- lant yard for a topsail yard, and so on. 316.— ACCIDENTS TO TILLER. In the event of losing a mast. Should the tiller break in the rudder head, the rudder must immediately be chocked, that its stump may be taken out and the spare tiller fitted, which, together with the chock, should al- ways be placed in readiness for immediate use. While the rud- der is useless, the ship must be hove-to till it is repaired, or some contrivance prepared to supply its place. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 179 317— THE MAIN-MAST IS CARRIED AWAY. Hard-up the helm, secure the mizen topmast if it still stands, clear the wreck, save as much as possible, and rig a jury main- mast, as above. 318.— THE BOWSPRIT IS CARRIED AWAY. Hard-up the helm, shiver the after yards, take in after sail, and get the ship before the wind ; take the fore-topmast breast- backstays forward over the top-sail yard, hook the pendant tack- les and set them up to the cat-heads ; unreeve the main-topmast and spring-stays, and set them up to the foretopsail sheet bitts; hitch a hawser to the foretopmast head, take this in through one of the hawse-holey, and set it up on the gun-deck. While this is performing, let some hands be reducing sail, sending down top- gallant yards and masts if they are aloft, and clearing the wreck; rig a jury-bowsprit of a spare main-topmast or a jib-boom. 319.— A TOPMAST IS CARRIED AWAY. Get the ship before the wind immediately, and reduce sail ; hook the top-blocks and reeve hawsers through them ; bend the lee one to the topsail-yard, which is probably hanging to leeward of the topmast, with the wreck. Clew up the topsail if practica- ble, and cut the parrel if it can be got at. The yard now hangs clear of the topmast ; bend the weather hawser to the wreck of the topmast ; have guys from the weather side of the deck — clear away the lanyards of the rigging and stays, also the rigging lead- ing to the topmast head, and send it down on deck ; hook the yard-tackles, slack the braces and trusses, bouse the lower yards forward, and send down the stump ; get the topsail-yard down in the lee-gangway, and repair its damages while the spare topmast is got aloft and secured by the old rigging ; send aloft the yard, set the topsails, and bring her to her course again. 320.— THE JIB-BOOM IS CARRIED AWAY. Mind the weather helm, hoist the foretopmast-staysail, and get in the wreck by the fore pendant-tackles, hooked to the fore- stay ; reeve a heel-rope and get in the stump ; point another boom, and rig it with the old rigging, if sound, if not, with spare ropes or hawsers. 180 THE KEDGE-AJNCHOR; 321.— THE FOREMAST IS SPRUNG NEAR THE HOUNDS OR BIBBS. Get the ship before the wind immediately, reduce sail, and get all the strain off the foremast ; secure the main-topmast. Send down topgallant yards and masts; hook the jeers, and settle the fore yard ; hook top-blocks, reeve top-pendants and house topmasts, allowing the heel to come considerably below the defect ; fish the foremast with side fishes, and the heel of the topmast, wedging the lashings. Clap a lashing around the doublings of the mast-head, having chocks between ; keep the pendant-tackles rove, turn in the rigging afresh, and set it up ; wedge the topmast in the cap, and sway the fore yard close up to the heel of the topmast ; reef the head sails to diminish the strain if required. 322.— THE FOREMAST AND BOWSPRIT CARRIED AWAY. Proceed as in 314, the remarks being applied to the present case ; lay-to under the main-staysail, to leeward of the wreck, and repair damages on board, in the best possible manner ; rig a jury foremast and bowsprit, and then cut clear, having saved as many spars and sails, and as much rigging as possible ; if the ship lays easily by the wreck, it would probably be well to ride by it, until the gale abates. If it is absolutely necessary to veer, it might be done as before mentioned, with the assistance of the mainsail, making use of the wreck as a drag, by taking the hawser as a spring to the quarter. 323.— THE BOWSPRIT IS SPRUNG. Up helm, shiver the after yards, take in after sail, and get the ship before the wind ; haul down the head sails, come up the main topmast stays, and set them up on deck ; get the fore-topmast breast-backstays forward, hook the fore pendant tackles, and set them up to the cat-head ; come up all the head stays, and rig in the head booms ; send down upper yards and masts, take the fore- topmast stays through the hawse-hole, and set them up. Note. — All strain now being off the bowsprit, fish ic with the regular fishes ; if there are none on board, use the jib-boom ; if thought sufficiently strong to bear the strain of the head stays, get them in their proper places, but if not, get stays out merely to make sail. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. Igl 324.— A TOPMAST IS SPRUNG NEAR THE LOWER CAP Get the ship before the wind and reduce sail ; if a spare topmast is not to be had, the old one may be housed far enough to allow the spring to come some feet below the cap, setting the lowei yard as in the last case ; fit a larger chock between the topmast and lowermast head, and clap stout lashings around, above, and below the defect part, wedging them well ; reef the foresail so that it can be set with the yard in its present place, and also the top- sail, to lessen the strain on the weak spar. Note. — Sheep-shank the rigging, if required, before setting up. 325.— TO SEND ALOFT A TOPMAST, AND A HEAVY SEA ON. After the topmast is pointed and rigged, hook the burtons to stout strops, at the rim of the top on each side ; hitch hawsers to the mast-head, leading one through a larger block at the fore- topmast head, and another aft through one at the mizen ; haul the burtons and hawsers taut ; sway aloft the topmast, slacking up as it goes aloft ; when Added, steady the topmast until the rigging and stays are set up. 326.— THE GAMMONING CARRIED AWAY. Proceed as in 323, until all strain is off the bowsprit ; put a stout chock on the bowsprit, and pass the end of the messenger out of a hawse-hole, over the chock, in through the other hawse- hole, and bitt it ; take the other end to the capstan, and get the bowsprit well down in its bed by the messenger and bob-stays ; come up the old gammoning, and pass a new one. Note. — Iron gammonings are used for all vessels, by new regu- lation. {See Rigging Table.) 327.— A LOWER CAP SPLITS. Take all sail off the mast, pass a stout lashing around the topmast and lower mast-head, which wedge ; after which woold and wedge the cap. 182 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 328.— THE TRESTLE-TREES ARE SPRUNG. Get the ship before the.wind, take all sail off the mast, send down topgallant yards and masts, housing the others ; hook the top-blocks, reeve top-pendants, hook top-tackles, and bouse them well taut, taking all strain off the fid ; pass several stout lash- ings around the heel of the topmast and lower mast-head, cleating them to prevent their slipping ; make sail as the mast will bear. 329.— A LOWER YARD IS CARRIED AWAY IN THE SLINGS. If the fore-yard, get the ship before the wind, haul up the foresail, clew up the topsail, take in all sail on the mizen-mast, unreeve the foretopsail sheets and board them on deck ; bring her on your course again, and haul the bowlines. If a main-yard, keep on the course, haul up the mainsail, clew up the topsail, unreeve the sheets, board them on deck, and haul the bowlines well out ; having proceeded thus far, get stout strops around the inner quarter of the yard, and hook the pendant- tackles to bolts in the lower cap, and these strops ; if the pendant- tackles are not at hand, use the burtons. Lash the jear-blocks, reeve the jears, and send the yard down by the jears, lifts, and pendant-tackles ; fish the lower yards im- mediately, if it can be done ; if it cannot, rig a topsail yard for a lower yard. 330.— A TOPSAIL YARD IS CARRIED AWAY. If it is the fore, reduce after sail ; mind the weather helm, and keep the ship on her course. If it is the main, stand on, clew up the sail, unbend it, and get it into the top the best manner possi- ble. Get a strop around the topmast-head, above the eyes of the rigging, to which hook a large single block, and reeve a hawser through it. If the yard is completely broken off, bend the haw- ser which is not secured by the parrel, bend on guys, and send it down ; then send down the other piece. If it still remains together, bend on the slings, stop out to leeward, have a tripping line and rolling ropes, and get it fore and aft on deck ; take off all the old rigging, which put on to the spare yard in the chains ; then bend OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 183 on the hawser, sway aloft, and cross it as in fitting the ship out, have rolling ropes around it as it goes aloft ; bend the topsail, and set it. 331.— THE SHIP LEAKS FASTER THAN THE PUMPS CAN FREE HER. Find out where the leak is ; thrum an old sail very thickly, and have stout ropes attached to each leech ; make it up, take it under the bowsprit, and get the ropes on their respective sides ; heave the ship too ; when her headway eases, drop the sail over- board ; after it has sunk beneath the keel, break the stops, haul aft on the ropes attached to each clew ; when the body of the sail is over the leak, haul well taut all the ropes attached to the leeches and the head, which will prevent the sail from going aft when going ahead ; make sail, and continue pumping. 332.— THE PUMPS ARE CHOKED Hoist them out, and clear them. 333.— A SHOT GETS LOOSE IN A GUN SECURED FOR A GALE. Prick the cartridge well down, and pour vinegar enough in the touch-hole to drown it. 184 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ; 334.— TO THROW A LOWER DECK GUN OVERBOARD. Fit a chock in the port-sill, and over the pomelion of the gun, to which, from the housing-bolt, hook a stout tackle ; unlash the muzzle, heave up the breech, and put in the bed and coin ; un- reeve the breeching, throw back the cap squares, and place cap- stan bars under the breech to ease it, and prevent the gun from slipping back into the carriage again ; man the side and port tackles, watch the roll, trice up the port briskly, run out, and throw the gun clear of the carriage, by the breech-tackles and capstan- bars ; shut in the port immediately. PART VI. 335.— TO TURN REEFS OUT OF THE TOPSAILS AND COURSES. Haul taut the reef-pendants, and set taut the lower lifts ; ease off the bowlines ; ease a little of the tacks and sheets of the courses, and settle a few feet of the topsail halliards ; haul taut the reef tackles and buntlines, round in a little of the weath- er braces, to clear the points of the lee-rigging ; commence cast- ing off the points of the bunt, taking care to leave none tied, and turning one reef out at a time ; ease away both earings together ; overhaul the rigging, get the tacks on board ; sheet home, hoist the topsails up to a taut leech, out bowlines and make sail. 336.— THE RUDDER IS CARRIED AWAY— TO FIT ANOTHER. Man the braces immediatly ; take in after sails, and let the ship run a little free ; rouse up a cable, clove-hitch a hawser over the cable, and then pay it overboard ; veer away about twenty fathoms, and lash it amidships on the taffrail ; lead the ends of the hawsers through large blocks, lashed to the quarters, and clap tackles on them ; steer the ship by this contrivance, until a rudder can be constructed. (See Plate.) Take a spare topmast, cut it the length of the rudder, enlarge the fid-hole to receive the tiller, if not already large enough ; take a spare cap and cut away the after part, so as to fit the stern post at the waters' edge, or a little below ; pass the topmast through the round hole in the cap ; take a spare jib-boom and cut 186 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; it in two ; the pieces are to be bolted on abaft the topmast, after squaring the edges which will come in contact with each other, and cutting a score in the forward part of the jib-boom, next to the topmast, to allow the cap to have room to play in ; plank the whole over with stout oak plank, and bolt in a fish abaft all ; drive an eye-bolt into the heel of the topmast (now the head of the rudder), and have kentledge attached to the other end to sink t ; take an anchor-stock and square two of the edges ; cut away a circular score in each, for them to join together around the top mast, below the squares, and thus serve as an upper gudgeon ; drive the anchor-stock hoops on the rudder-head, to prevent split- ting. Place the rudder on a stage, near the tafTrail ; pass a couple of hawsers aft through the hawse-holes, and secure them to the heel of the rudder ; have tackles on their inner ends ; have two more hawsers or parts of hawsers passed from forward aft, under everything, one each side, and clinch them to the quarter eye-bolts in the cap ; have a pendant round as described in another place ; launch overboard and rouse up on the head rope ; heave in upon the hawsers, and bring the rudder to the stern post, perpendic- ularly ; secure the cap to the stern post and the anchor-stock, around the rudder head ; ship the tiller, reeve the wheel-ropes, and rouse in the cable. The kentledge may remain to keep the rudder perpendicular, or may be taken off, as the -case may re- quire. Note. — See improved sketch or plan of temporary rudder. 337.— A SHIP ON FIRE AT SEA. Hard up the helm, haul up the courses, up spanker, get the ship before the wind, and reduce sail to topsails ; beat to quarters, close all the ports, muster the men at their stations, call away the firemen, under charge of their proper officers ; let a part fill the engine and wet the sails, while the other part finds out where the fire is, and endeavor to extinguish it if possible— for which purpose use bedding ; putting over the gratings and tarpaulins. The gunner and his mates should be in the magazine, ready to drown the powder at a moment's notice ; let the carpenters rig and fetch the pumps, and the spar-deck divison clear away the boats, equip them, and get them ready for hoisting out ; in the above case, the fire is supposed to be below, and the helm is put up, because wind is less felt ; the ports are shut in, and the tar- paulins put on, as they would afford air to the fire ; and the cour- ses hauled up, because they strike a current of air down the OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. Ig7 hatchways, and are also liable to catch. If the fire is on deck, and forward, keep before the wind ; if aft, haul close on a wind. 338.— A SHIP ON HER BEAM ENDS. When the severity of the squall is felt, hard up the helm and let fly everything; but if she goes on her beam ends before she can be got off sufficiently to diminish the effects of the wind, the best way will be to cut away the mizen-mast before the headway ceases, which falling over the lee quarter, will act as a drag, to pay her off; should she not right when before the wind, if there be an anchorage, and the cable is bent, get the drag to the lee- bow, by means of a spring, and rouse in ; the wind acting on the flat deck, and under side of the sails, will probably right her. As a last resort, cut away the masts — great decision and rapidity of execution is necessary, as the ship must go down a short time after she goes over. 339.— WIND FREE, ALL SAIL SET, STRUCK BY A SQUALL. Up helm, let fly the main-sheets, spanker-outhaul, staysail-sheets and halliards, royal and topgallant studding-sail-halliards, royal and topgallant-sheets, and halliards ; haul up the mainsail, brail up the spanker, down staysails, and order the topmen to haul in the studding-sails and stow them. When before the wind, right the helm, clew down the topsails, haul up the buntlines, and out reef- tackles, and reef if necessary ; clear up the decks as fast as pos- sible. Note. — In ordinary cases, sheets and tacks should be eased off, for if they should get foul when running through their blocks fast, spars might be endangered ; but when struck by a severe squall, the effect of the sails must be diminished as soon as possible, to save the masts, and prevent her from going over. 3 40.— STRUCK BY A SQUALL ON A LEE SHORE. If sail cannot be reduced, luff-too and shake her ; fill away again, gather headway, and luff again. 188 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 341.— STRUCK BY A SQUALL UNDER WHOLE TOP- SAILS AND COURSERS. Up helm, let fly the topsail halliards, main-sheet, spanker out- haul, and lee-topsail sheets ; haul up the mainsail, brail up the spanker, clew up the topsails to leeward, then to windward ; right the helm, and reef if necessary. 342.— ON A WIND, UNDER WHOLE TOPSAILS— PART THE WEATHER MAIN-TOPSAIL BRACE. Haul up the mainsail, let go the lee main-brace, haul forward on the lee-maintop-bowline, and aft on the weather main-brace ; luff- too, and when the main- topsail shivers, clew it down, haul up the buntlines, out reef tackles, and steady the yard by the bow- line, until a new brace can be rove ; a burton might be hooked to steady the yard. 343.— THE JIB-DOWNHAUL PARTS. Untoggle the fore-topgallant-bowlines, and knot them together, above the first hank, between the stay and jib-halliards, which use for a downhaul, until you reeve a new one. 344.— TO CHASE. A vessel that chases another should have the advantage in point of sailing, because if the ship chased is as good a sailer as the chaser, the latter can never come up to her, if she manosu- vred equally as well. In order to determine whether your ship sails faster than your adversary, get upon the same tack, under the same sail, and keep upon the same course with her ; set her exactly with a compass, and if your ship sails best, the sail will soon draw a point more aft; if she has the advantage she will in a short time draw more forward, and if both sail equally well, she will remain at the same point. OR YOUNG SAILORS'" ASSISTANT. 345.— TO CHASE TO WINDWARD. 189 To chase to windward, run upon the same course with the enemy, until he is brought perpendicularly to the same course ; when tack and continue the second board, until he is again brought perpendicularly to the same course ; always continue this manoeuvre by tacking every time the chase is a-beam, on either board, and she will come in the shortest method by your superiority of sailing. Should the chase pass the point, when the chase bears a-beam, he must go about with all dispatch. Note. — The chase goes about as soon as the chase is exactly a-beam, because at that time, the distance between them is the least possible upon the different boards they hold. 346.— OBSERVATIONS FOR A SHIP TO WINDWARD, WHICH IS CHASED. The weather ship will always be joined, since it is granted that she does not sail as well as the pursuer, it will be then to her advantage to keep constantly on the same tack, without losing time to heave about, for tacking cannot be so favora- ble to her as to her adversary, whose sailing is superior. 190 If the chaser, mistakingly stands on and tacks in the wake of the chase, the best course for the latter to pursue is to heave about and pass to windward of him on the other tack, unless you sup- pose your vessel would have a superiority in going large ; for if the chaser persists in tacking in the wake of the other ship, the chase will be much prolonged. 347.— TO CHASE TO LEEWARD. If the chaser keeps away to cut the chase off, and keeps contin- ually on that course, they will eventually come together where the two courses inter- sect. This will be exactly executed by the ship in chase, if in the course she has taken, "she keeps the chase continually up- on the same degree of the compass as at the beginning of the pur- suit. This principle applies equally to all the courses which the retreating ship pursues, for if overtaken, it can only be accom- plished by keeping in a straight line, if the chase takes another course than that which keeps the two ships upon the same point. These are the only considerations to be made, and they may be corrected, by observing the bearings' *by an azimuth com- pass. 348.— TO WINDWARD OF AN ENEMY, WITHIN PISTOL SHOT. — The weather main rigging is shot away — both ships with main-topsails to the mast. Up helm, fill away, and run the enemy on board, before she gets headway to prevent it. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 191 349.— WIND ON THE QUARTER, ALL SAIL SET- BRING BY UNDER DOUBLE-REEFED TOPSAILS. Reduce sail regularly, and clew down the topsails ; luff enough to reef, hoist the topsails, and haul close on a wind. 350.— WIND ON THE QUARTER, ALL SAIL SET— BRING-TO ON THE OTHER TACK, UNDER DOUBLE REEFED TOPSAILS. Reduce sail to topsails, station the crew forward, with one watch of top- men aloft to reef; brail up the spanker, up helm, brace in, and when before the wind, clew down the topsails, haul out reef-tackles, and up buntlines ; let the men lay out and reef; wind on the quarter, brace up cross-jack yard, and haul out the spanker ; as she comes-too, brace up the fore yard, and meet her with the helm and jib-sheet; when coming-too, a good opportunity will be offered for reefing ; when reefed, hoist away the topsails, letting the main go a-back, the others fill. Note. — Having a dismasted ship in tow, heave-to, make fast the stream cable to the mainmast of the ship, and take it in at the weather gangway, clinching it around the mainmast ; then make fast a stout hawser as a spring, and snatch it to a block lashed amidships on the taffrail, so that the ship may either ride on the weather quarter, or be roused astern. In case of veering, rouse in upon the spring, and the manoeuvre will be performed with more certainty. After it is executed, the tow-rope must be shifted to the opposite gangway, by means of a spring, &c. 351.— HOW TO GET THE ANCHORS OFF THE BOWS. Hook the fore pendant-tackle ; single the shank-painters, and set them taut with the pendant-tackles ; come up the shank-lash- ings, put the shoes between the bills and bows, by capstan-bars, and then by the shank-painters as far as necessary. Single and set taut cat-head stoppers, and then unlash the rings. 192 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 352.— TO ANCHOR HEAD TO WIND— WIND FREE. See that the officers and men are at their stations, and the strictest silence preserved, as the ship nears her berth ; take in all the studding sails, get the burtons off the yards, and the jiggers off the topgallant yards ; send the booms and sails down from aloft ; man the fore clew-garnets, buntlines and leechlines ; the mainsail is hauled up as the ship is going free ; topgallant and royal clewlines ; lay aloft and stand by to furl the sails snug, and square the yards by the lifts and braces ; have hands by the fore tack and sheet, topgallant and royal sheets, halliards, weather braces, and bowlines ; up foresail, in topgallant-sails and royals ; furl the sails snug, and square the yards by the lifts and braces, hauling taut the halliards. Man the topsail-clewlines and bunt- lines, weather braces, jib-downhaul, and spanker-outhaul ; attend the sheets, halliards, and spanker-brails, ease down the helm, haul down the jib, haul out the spanker, and when the topsail lifts, clear away the sheets, and clew them up ; then let go the halliards, clew down, and square away the yards immediately ; haul aft the spanker-sheet, and when the headway ceases, stream the buoy, stand clear of the cable ; when she begins to go astern, let go the anchor, brail up the spanker, crotch the boom, haul taut the guys, light-to the cable, as fast as she will take it, until a sufficient scope is out, when stopper. Furl sails, liaul taut and stop in the rigging, send the boats' crews aft, to lower the boats down. Let the boatswain go ahead to square the yards — clear up the decks. Note. — If in going to moor, veer out double the mooring scope, and then let go the anchor ; then furl sails and heave in. 353.— TO ANCHOR ON A LEE SHORE. The ship being on a lee shore, and no room to veer, recourse must be had to letting go all the anchors. For this purpose all the cables are bent and ranged, and all the anchors got ready for letting go ; the weather sheet is bitted to the forward bitts. and the weather boAver to the after bitts, to windward ; the lee bower to the forward bitts, and the lee sheet to the after ones to leeward ; no buoy rope is bent except to the weather sheet ; the weather sheet is backed by the stream, and the other anchors with kedges ; see all the tiers clear, get the ship under storm-staysails, and furl all the square sails ; hook the yard tackles ; get the lower yards forward, and house topmast ; when all is ready, keep her a little off, to get headway. Let go the weather sheet and stream an OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 193 chors and veer away, then the weather bower and kedge ; down helm ; haul down fore and main storm stay-sails, and the drift to leeward will carry her to the berth of the last anchor, which let go ; haul down the mizen storm stay-sail, and veer away an equal scope on all four cables ; observe that they will bear an equal strain, and veer to a long scope, reserving sufficient to freshen the nip with ;* see that the cables are well rounded, and watch them carefully. If she should drag, sling the guns with the stoutest spare rigging on board, having a round turn around all these cables, and heave them over : if she should still drag, cut away the masts, and if there be no possibility of pre- venting her from going on shore, take a stout spring to one of the quarters, slip the cables, let her veer round and go on shore end on.f Note — In weighing these anchors, bring-to first on the cable which has got the least scope out, taking in the slack of the others with deck-tackles. 354.— SCUDDING UNDER A FORESAIL— TO COME TO AN ANCHOR. Get both bowers ready for letting go ; haul up the foresail, making a due allowance for headway, and run in under bare poles; when near the berth, down helm, out with the span- ker, and haul aft mizen storm stay-sail sheet ; when by the wind, let go the weather anchor and veer away briskly ; when head to wind, let go the lee anchor, and haul down the staysail ; veer-to, and bring equal strain on both cables. If necessary, let go more anchors. 355.— TO MAKE A FLYING MOOR. Make all necessary preparations for coming-to ; overhaul and bitt a double range of the weather cable, and bitt the lee one at the range to which she is to be moored. When approaching the anchorage, reduce sail to topsails, jib and spanker, if moderate, but if fresh, to jib and spanker only ; when near the berth of the first anchor, lufF-to, stream the buoy, and when the headway has * If they are hemp cables ; if chain, it is unnecessary, t See wrecked in a gale. 13 194 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; nearly ceased, let go the weather anchor, up helm, stand on and veer away roundly, to prevent the range from checking her : when the full range is nearly out, hard down the helm, down jib, clew up the topsails, out spanker, and let her lay the range out taut ; when taut, let go the lee anchor, furl sails, bring-to on the weather-cable, reeving away on the lee one, and heave into the moorings. Moor taut, to allow for veering ; clap on service, and veer it ; if hemp cable, square the yards, stop in the rigging, and clear up the decks. 356.— TO MOOR WITH A LONG SCOPE OF CHAIN. Shackle the ends of both chains together, and veer away near- ly the whole of the two cables ; then let go the other anchor, bring-to on the first cable, heave in, veering away on the other ; when into the mooring mark or shackle, stopper and bitt, un- shackle the chains, and secure all ; clear up the decks, and pay the chain below. (See Unmooring and Mooring.) 357.— BLOWING FRESH— IN PORT. Range the cables, see the anchor clear, and an anchor watch set ; have leads-men in the chains — send down the upper yards, if not already down; house top-gallant masts, and point the yards to the wind. 358.— SEND DOWN LOWER YARDS. Send aloft the jeer-blocks, lash them, and reeve the jeers ; see the gear of the courses clear, trusses unrove, and lifts clear for unreeving ; hook the yard-tackles and take them forward, heave taut the jeers, unreeve the lanyard of the slings, attend the braces and yard-tackles, lower away by the jeers and lifts. When down make all fast. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. £95 359.— TO HOUSE TOPMASTS. Hook top-blocks, reeve pendants and falls, see the rigging clear that leads to the topmast heads, man the top tackle-falls, slack the lanyards of the rigging, stays and backstays ; sway up, out fid, lower away, and haul down on the rigging; when low enough, pass heel-lashings around the lower masts, having can- vass in the wake ; set taut the rigging and stays. Sheep-shank the backstays, haul taut the running-rigging, and make all snug. Note. — The topmasts may be housed with the lower yards aloft, by taking the yard-tackles forward and bousing upon them, slacking the braces and trusses at the same time (if not patent trasses). The patent truss has been so improved that the mast can be housed by unclamping one side and bracing sharp up. 360.— TO BACK A BOWER BY A STREAM. Bend a stream-cable to the flukes of the bower-anchor, observ- ing to let go the stream first ; and when the cable is taut, let go the bower. If the bower is already down and dragging, form a clinch with the stream, around the cable, and let her drag until she brings the stream ahead. 361.— TO SWEEP FOR AN ANCHOR. Make use of long stout running-rigging ; middle it, and attach some sinker to the middle, also along the bight, to confine it to the bottom. Coil it away in two boats, and pull to windward of where the anchor is supposed to lie ; then pull in an opposite direction, veering away on the bight from both boats ; now pull in the direction of the anchor, and when the bight catches, cross the boats, and get a round turn with the rope ; make a running bowline on the end of a hawser around the rope, and slip it down ; when fast, weigh with the launch. Note. — A section of small sized chain, with a rope bent to each end, is the best means that can be used to sweep for an anchor. Cross and bring both parts together, after which put on a shackle on both parts, and let it run down to the anchor ; then heave up on both parts. 196 THE KL.JGE-A3NCH0R 362.— PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING HARBOR. Inspect the tiller-ropes, shift hard over the helm, once or twice each way, in order to see that the tiller is not obstructed in its sweep in the gun-room. Place lead-lines in both channels. Point the ends of the hawsers up the hatchways, ready for pay- ing out in any direction. Range both bower cables ; see stoppers placed in readiness (bitt and ring). Examine cat-head stop- pers, and shank-painters of both bower-anchors. Should the shank-painters be fitted slip-shackle fashion, care should be taken to place men by them who are acquainted with the method of disengaging the anchors, &c. 363.— WEIGHING ANCHOR IN A HEAD-SEA. In weighing anchor with a head-sea, precaution should be taken to have previously prepared a good deck- tackle or other purchase, which affix to the messenger (if required), to assist the action of the capstan. There should also be had in readiness an ample quantity of nippers. (See Passing Nippers.) 364.— CASTING, OR CUTTING THE CABLE. When at single anchor in a roadstead, and if it be apprehended that from the direction of the wind, and the local position of the ship with the shore, it may be necessary to have recourse to cut- ting the cable, and that casting the wrong way would endanger the safety of the vessel, timely precaution should be taken to ensure the ships casting in the right direction. To effect this purpose, the stream cable should be bent to that of the riding bower, brought through the after part, and taken round the capstan, in readiness to act as a spring, to cant the ship previously to cutting. Axes should be placed abaft in the vicinity of the stream cable, for the purpose of cutting it, after the bower has been severed, and the ship's head cast the desired way. Note.— A slip or buoy-rope should be brought over { ' head," so that when the cable is cut, a buoy may be left in the roadstead to denote the position of the anchor. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 197 365.— CLINCHING CABLES. Whatever be the number of hemp cables which are bent to the anchors, the officer in charge is particularly cautioned to clap on a clinch rounding, towards the inner extremity of each cable, keep- ing three sheaves in the tier ; upon receiving the cables on board, and clinching their respective ends, the officer may proceed as given in the note below. Chain-cables should never be clinched in a manner which .will not admit of their ends being immediately disengaged, in the event of it becoming necessary to slip, or extricate the ship from her anchors ; it may be said, that the cable may be unshackled on deck, but it may so happen, that the last shackle is without the hawse — a circumstance which will preclude the possibility of having recourse to this expedient. Note. — Pay down three sheaves into the tier, and then clap on a racking lashing to the fore beam, previously worming and parceling in the wake of the lashing ; measure then, allowing the cable bitted, and clap on a rounding in the wake, where the cable would bring up in the hawse, and chafe in the cutwater. This method leaves room to freshen hawse, in the event of having to veer to the clinch. Few ships adopt the precaution of clapping upon their cables a clinch service ; when too late, the necessity of the prac- tice is discovered. 366,— FITTING BUOY-KOPES. Buoy-ropes are always proportioned to the depth of water. One end is unlaid, and a buoy rope-knot made ; it is then laid up again, and whipped. A clove hitch is made, one half of the hitch being on each side of the crown. The end with the knot is seized on the shank, one seizing put on close to the crown, and one close to the end. The other is bent to the buoy. Some prefer the running eye. Put over one arm, and a half-hitch over the other arm, and seized in the cross. 367.— JIB-HALLIAKDS WITH A WHIP. A piece of rope, nearly equal to the double halliards, is rove through the block at the mast-head, and hooked to the head of the jib, a hook being spliced in the end ; in the other a single 198 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; block is spliced high enough from the deck to allow the jib being hauled close down. Through this block reeve a fall, and send both ends down through lubber's-hole ; splice a hook in one end, and hook into a bolt ; reeve the other through a leading-block. Objections have been made to whips, but if the standing part is put a good distance from the hauling, it is impossible that it can take tarns in— they can lead abaft the top if necessary. I should recommend their being brought down immediately forward of topsail halliards. 368.— JIB SHEETS, DOUBLE. Two single blocks are seized into one strap, as span blocks, and the strap secured to the clew* of the sail, with a lashing pass- ed through it, and an eye formed in the strap by crossing both parts together, and passing a throat seizing. One end of the sheet is clinched or spliced into an eye-bolt in the bulwarks, the other end rove through the block in the sail, from out, in and through a fan-leader or sheave in the bulwarks. With pendants, a piece of rope of sufficient size and length is middled, crossed, and a throat seizing passed round both parts, having an eye in the bight large enough to take a lashing. In each of these pendants, splice a single block ; reeve a whip the same as in the double sheets. The pendants should be long enough to allow the weather one to hang slack on the fore-top- mast stay, when the sheet is aft. (See Sail Table for iron clews.) 369.— WBECKED IN A GALE. When this sad fate appears inevitable, it would be well to make choice (if choice can be made), of what appears the best part of the coast, and the clearest from rocks, for beaching her. The manner in which the boatmen beach their boats, is by laying them, with the assistance of the helm, half-broadside on, or rather bow and quarter on, having previously given the vessel a heel, or list in shore. This may be done either by trimming, or by the sallying of the crew, before the time that the vessel takes the ground. Such a position will offer the best means of saving the crew, who may also be materially assisted by cutting * Iron clews being fitted to all sails, the strap would be likely to chafe. I would recommend snug clump sister-hooks, or shackles, fitted to the clews. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 199 away the masts, so as to fall towards the shore, which may be the means of assisting those on board to reach the shore. In establishing a communication with the shore, if it be by a boat, the end of the deep sea-lead line should be taken in her, or if it be by some good swimmer, with a cork jacket on, the end of the log line will serve the same purpose ; by either of these, haw- sers, or other large ropes may afterwards be got on shore. The means of getting on shore from a wreck are by life boats, rafts, parts of the wreck, or life preservers. A canvass cot, with large holes at the bottom, to admit the water to pass through freely, and having cross bars of thick rope, should also be kept in readiness for such an occasion. Raw-hide rope will be the best for traveling grommets. Some other expedients might be mentioned, which are for the consider ation of officers in charge of vessels. 3 7 o.— SETTING UP RIGGING AT SEA. Whenever it is required to set up the lower shrouds, at sea, the topmast shrouds should be all let go ; this practice is recom- mended upon the presumption that the lower rigging will not be cast loose, or set up on the occasion of a swell, or that the ship be rolling or pitching. It has been well observed, that by letting go two topmast shrouds at a time, an uneven strain has been brought upon the futtock ;* which prevents the shrouds of the lower rigging being equally drawn down. Upon all occasions of setting up the lower rigging at sea, it is always advisable to have ready prepared as many luffs as possi- ble, so that the shrouds may be set up at a time, and that there may be no delay in shifting the tackles from shroud to shroud. When the lower rigging is up, the futtock plates should be beaten down to the top, and the shrouds set tautly up by means of tackles, ready hooked to there respective lanyards. The method of em- ploying the Spanish windlass, for the purpose of setting up these shrouds, is not to be recommended. It occupies too much time, and often creates unnecessary delay before the topmast rigging can be set up. In staying the topmasts, the boatswain is not recommended to bouse too far forward the heads of the mast, and he should recollect that the angle formed by the main topmast stay, with the fore top, is considerably greater than that of the fore topmast with the bowsprit ; and consequently that the lever of the former is more powerful than that of the latter. * This is only applicable to vessels having their futtock-rigging set up to their lower rigging. 200 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; Note. — Vessels not having catharpen legs, need not come up the topmast rigging for the purpose of setting up lower rigging, as the futtock-shrouds set up to the mast. 371.— SLACKING THE JIB-STAY, IN BAD WEATHER. The jib-stay is always set up as taut as a bar of iron ; conse- quently, when it comes to a blow, both the spray of the sea and the rain tend to tauten it more ; in pitching, too, it must assist to spring the boom, work the bowsprit, and cause unnecessary strain upon the rope itself. Whenever it blows so fresh that the jib is not likely to be set, the jib-stay should be slacked. If it be required subsequently to setting the sail, nothing can be easier than to set the stay up, while the jib is loosing. {Bear this in mind.) 372.— STOPPING OUT TOPGALLANT YARD ROPES. The practice of permitting the topmen to stop the topgallant yard ropes out at their own convenience, and consequently at unstated periods, is at variance with that order and regularity which should ever characterize the duties and discipline of a ves- sel of war. In well regulated ships, the officer of the watch, following the movements of the senior officers, directs the boatswain or his mates to pipe " out yard ropes ;" if tripping-lines are tolerated, the yard rope and tripping-line men should lay out together: by pur- suing this system the yards will be kept square, and will not (as is of constant occurrence), be seen for an hour and a half be- fore sunset, topping in different directions. The same rule should be observed when placing on whips for hammock-girtlines, or clothes-lines. 373.— PREVENTER BRACES. It is desirable to establish a general rule, that when the top- sails are treble-reefed, the preventer braces are to be placed on the yards, and that the relieving tackles in the gun room be placed at hand ready for use. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 201 37 4.— KEEPING A CLEAR ANCHOR. That part of seamanship which relates to the method of tend- ing a ship to the tide, or in other words of keeping the cable clear of the anchor, may not be inaptly termed the blind branch of the mariner's art — the buoy floating on the surface being the only possible guide that the seaman possesses to point to the po- sition of the anchor hidden under water. From being little understood, and by young officers it is seldom put in practice, the art of keeping a clear anchor is by many con- sidered a difficult task ; but, were officers to give more attention to the matter, and to place less dependence on the master or pilot, they would soon attain every necessary knowledge to meet the most difficult tide case. 375.— ANCHOR TURNING IN THE GROUND. In order to ensure the certainty of an anchor turning in the ground, with the tending or swinging of the ship, it is recom- mended (whenever it is possible), to resort to this practice : To shoot the ship on the same side of her anchor, at each change of tide ; for if the anchor should not turn in the ground, the cable will get foul, either about the stock or upper fluke, and trip it out of ground. (Remember this). 376.— TO TEND TO A WEATHER-TIDE. Let it be supposed that a ship is riding at single anchor, upon a lee-tide, with the wind in the same direction as the tide, and that it be required, upon the tide setting to windward, to tend the ship clear of the anchor. To effect this, as soon as the ship 202 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; begins to feel the turn of the weather-tide, and that the vessel brings the wind broad on the weather-bow, the head sails should be hoisted, and the lee-sheets hauled aft, in order to shoot the ship from her anchor, on a taut cable. The helm must be put "a-lee," and kept in that position until the tide sets the ship over to windward of her cable, and the buoy appears on the same side with the helm. If from light winds the buoy bears nearly a-beam, her head sails may be hauled down ; but if the breeze be strong, and it causes the ship to shoot in a direction nearly end-on with that of the cable, bringing the buoy on her quarter, it will be necessary to keep the fore-topmast-staysail set, in orde to check the vessel, should she be disposed to break her shea against the action of her helm, or be inclined to drop to wind- ward and " go over" her anchor, in a broadside or lateral direc- tion. 377.— A MAN OVERBOARD, AT SEA. If the ship be going free, and particularly if fast through the water, it is recommended to bring-to with the head-yards a-back, for it is obvious if the main-yard be left square, the ship will be longer coming-to, will shoot farther, increase the distance from the man, and add materially to the delay of succor. It will however require judgment, especially if blowing fresh to be careful and right the helm in time, or the ship will fly-to too much, gain stern way, and risk the boat in lowering down. The best authority recommends, that if possible, the ship should not only be hove a-back when a man falls overboard, but she ought to be brought around on the other tack : of course sail ought to be shortened in stays, and the main-yard kept square. This implies the ship being on a wind, or from the position of having the wind not above two points abaft the beam. The great merit of such a method of proceeding, is, that if the evolution succeeds, the ship when round will drift towards the man, and although there may be some small risk in lowering the boat in stays from the ship, having at one period sternway, there will in fact be little time lost, if the boat be not lowered until the ship be well round, and the sternway at an end. There is more mischief done generally, by lowering the boat too soon, than by waiting until the fittest moment arrives for doing it coolly. It cannot be too often repeated, that almost the whole depends upon the self-possession of the officer of the deck. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 20^ 37 8.— JIB AND STAYSAIL-HALLIARD. (Blocks at mast-head.) For various reasons it is advisable to dispense with the cheek- blocks, which are usually fitted to the fore topmast-head, for the purpose of reeving the above two ropes, together with the fore topmast staysail-halliards. In the first place, if the fore-topmast be sprung, or carried away in chase, and it be required to shift the mast with all possible speed, considerable time is taken up in removing and replacing cheek-blocks at the mast-head. (See allowance-table, Blocks.) Note. — In some ships the jib and fore-topmast staysail-halliards are rove through gins fitted for the purpose. Gins, however, are not supplied in all ships, but you can always fit fiddle-blocks under the eyes of your rigging ; your jib and staysail-halliards reeve in the upper sheaves, and the topsail-buntlines in the lower ones. Oheek-blocks answer well on the trestle-trees. 379.-T0 KEEP THE HAWSE CLEAR WHEN MOORED. When it is nearly slack water, cant her with the helm the right way, and if necessary, make use of jib, spanker, and yards. 380.— TO TEND TO WINDWARD— SINGLE ANCHOR. When the tide slacks, sheer her with the helm, run up the jib and fore-topmast staysail, with weather-sheets aft ; when canted the right way, the lee-sheets may be hauled aft, and and the yards filled, thus setting her abreast to a taut cable ; when the buoy is on the lee-quarter, brace the head-yards to the wind, and fill the after ones ; when the tide swings her head around so as to shake the sails, haul down and stow them. 381.— TO TEND TO LEEWARD. As the tide slackens, sheer her to the same side of the buoy on which she came to windward, and fill the yards, which will set 204 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; her end-on over the cable ; she will now by the effect of the wind, bring her stern over the cable, and bring the buoy on her weather-quarter ; put the helm " a-weather," and she will shoot ahead, tautening the cable, by sheering her head from the wind. When the wind gets a little aft the beam, hoist the jib, to prevent the cable from drawing her head to wind. Let her lay in this position until she falls off; when the head- sails shake, haul down and stow them. 382.— TO BACK SHIP— (AT ANCHOK). As the tide slacks, sheer her to windward, sheet-home and set the mizen-topsail ; thus she will back round to leeward as soon as the tide sets up ; clew up and furl the mizen-topsail. 383.— TO BREAK THE SHEAR7 When tending to the tide, and the ship comes over her anchor, she may break her shear by canting her stern the wrong way; when this is the case put the helm "a-weather," run the jib up, fill the head-yards, and the after-yards kept-to. Everything is now arranged to bring her round again, when she must be man- aged as before mentioned. 384.— ON GETTING TO SEA. Unship the man-ropes, stow them away, secure the gangways, pay down the messenger, and secure anchors and boats. The anchors ought to be se- cured with preventer stoppers, and painters, particularly where they work with a slip-shackle or tricker, which a rope catching, may drag or drive out. In fact the jib-sheet is apt to do this if not looked to. Wash and dry the nippers, then stow them away ; wash down the anchors and buoys, and black OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 205 them as soon as possible ; when clear of the land, unbend cables, buoys, and buoy-ropes, and ship the blind-buckles, unless prevent- ed by peculiar circumstances. Take off the harbor-gaskets and have them repaired and blackened afresh, when convenient. If the bunt-gaskets, however, are retained on the yards, roll them up snug and secure them. Put the sea-gaskets on, make them up in cheises, and keep them before the yards. Place bunt-line spans to their respective yards. Have the boats' sails and awnings dried and put below. Q,uarter-boats clear for lowering. Besides these, the watch on deck, when not employed in more pressing duties, may be occupied to much advantage as fol- lows, viz. : 1st. Exercising small-arms, cutlasses and guns ; 2d. Pointing all ropes requiring it ; 3d. Working up a sufficient quantity of junk, into seizmg- stuff, mats, swabs, foxes, thumb-lines, knittles, gaskets, reef- points, nippers, salvagees, straps, &c, &c. 385.— ON FIRE REGULATIONS IN THE MERCHANT- SERVICE. We now come to the most important of all the regulations in a ship, namely, those which operate against the fatal and shock- ing effects of fire. Whatever good results from stationing people in ordinary cases, cannot be put in competition with this, which provides against the most dreadful catastrophe incident to a ship. Prom the number of unfortunate accidents of this nature we surely ought to be prepared to our utmost for such an event. First, by internal precautions ; and Secondly, by the means to be used against the danger. Let there be great attention in the use of fire and lights. — The regulations on these subjects which exist in men of war are still more required in merchant vessels. Fires should be put out at eight p. m., and all lights at nine p. m., except those required for the binnacle, and on deck. The officer of the last dog-watch ought to report the fire extin- guished to the captain. As each man is relieved from the wheel, he should examine below, and report " all well " to the officer of the watch. No naked light whatever ought to be permitted ; let either lanterns or lamps be used. Spirits should be drawn off by day ; a naked light should on no account be permitted near a spirit cask. 206 THE KEDGE-ANCF.OR; Smoking should not be allowed below. I have known more than one ship set on fire by a man's pipe ; and by segars, I have no doubt many have been burnt. In stowing a hold, do not allow naked lights to be used, nor any person to smoke there when so employed. On receiving cotton as a cargo, both those who ship as well as those who receive it, ought to ascertain that it is in a safe state before it be put on board. I have known instances of its being sold and moved away, when, in a few hours, if it had not been moved, it would have ignited. I am acquainted with the particulars of a ship that was burnt some years since, where oil had been stowed in the hold with cotton over it, with what was considered safe and secure dunnage between. The cotton, notwithstanding, absorbed a quantity of oil, became heated, and ignited. The crew with difficulty saved themselves in the boats before the flames burst forth, and the vessel was entirely consumed. Chests containing bottles of inflammable substances, such as vitriol, &c, cannot be too well secured. A medicine chest upset, in a gale may set fire to a ship. Friction matches should never be allowed on board a ship. The coals in steamers have frequently taken fire, and in many cases with the most fatal consequences. Too much care cannot be taken in the selection of coals ; a strict examination ought to be made as to their state when received and stowed, and no sus- picious circumstances should be then overlooked. When receiv- ing coals, avoid throwing the fresh ones on the old, which ought to be kept uppermost, and Jirst for use. When once they become ignited, I can hardly offer a remedy for the evil. When coals take fire, some people throw water upon them, and smother the fire by wet beds. Hot water, or steam, if they can be used, are more expeditious than cold water in extinguish- ing fire, I believe. To attempt to discharge the coals, would al- low the air freer access, and would be certain to increase the power of the fire. A few canvass buckets, with long lanyards, should be always prepared and ready on deck for drawing water. When a fire is first discovered, shorten all low sails directly, courses up, stay-sails and wind-sails down, boat-covers taken off. If the sails should take fire from lightning, or any other cause, cutting away the mast appears the most likely method of saving the ship. At first, endeavor if possible, to stifle the fire ; which may be best done by shutting off any draught of air, and smothering it with wet bedding, small sails, &c, until a good supply of waier can be applied. If the fire is forward, put before the wind until it is necessary to " out boats," then bring-to. If the fire is aft, or a-midships, keep to the wind. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 207 386.— STATION BILL FOR FIRE, IN THE MER- CHANT SERVICE.* Coolness and steadiness in any misfortune by fire are essential to arrest it If a fire break out below, the hatchways should be immediately covered, to prevent a draught of air. Ring the ship's bell to call the men to their stations. men's names. A very steady man - The carpenter, and one man. The chief mate, boat- swain, and ship's cook. A man of each watch or more. A boy. Remainder of star- board watch. Remainder of larboard watch. Cabin steward, and cabin boy. Second mate to direct fire hose, and the sup- ply of water from deck. The crew. DUTIES. To the helm. -First, to cover hatchways with gratings and tarpaulins. Secondly, to rig pumps and lead hoses; and Thirdly, get the tools ready for cutting away, L if required. To attend where the fire is, and pass water to To the pumps, and to draw water as for wash- ing decks. To collect all the buckets to the part where the water is being drawn. { First duty to haul up courses, brail up trysails and spanker. Second duty, draw and pass water with the fire buckets ; then for third duty see below. f First duty, to haul up courses, brail up trysails and spanker. ^ Second duty, to soak small sails and bedding to throw over and smother the fire ; then for third duty see below. If any powder or other combustibles are on board, to throw them overboard if possible, or drown them. If the fresh water is in tanks, turn the waste- valvesf of two of them for a first supply for the pump, and then go to direct fire hose, &c. ("Third duties of the crew, the yard and stay- 's tackles to be got up ready for getting out t_ boats. * This bill ought to be written out or printed, and hung up for every one's in- spection. f The mate ough; to have the key of the valves of the water tanks in bis own keeping. 208 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; men's names. DUTIES. The crew. f Fourth duties of the crew, if the fire appears to increase, out boats, and lower down the < quarter boats ; let them lay off in a string to windward, with a man and a boy as keepers, |_ ready for the rest of the crew if required. The captain To attend at all the stations as he deems best. If the ship cannot be saved, the passengers and crew are the first objects, with some fresh water and biscuit ; a compass, quad- rant and Bowditch. Unless there is sufficient time, and it can be done without endangering the sea- worthiness of the boats, nothing should be taken that is not essential to the mere preser- vation of life, and necessary for navigating the boats. 387.— TAKING TO THE BOATS. The captain should in his own mind, and by a private memo- randum, station the passengers and crew to the boats on board, and likewise make the persons here specified be responsible for having the following articles put into the boats. Captain. First mate. Second mate. Surgeon Carpenter. Third mate, or boat- swain. Sail maker. Cook, and steward. Compass, Maury on Navigation, sextant, spy- glass, Nautical Almanac, pencils and writing paper, general chart, pocket watch, pair ot compasses, &c. Oars, masts, sails, boat-hooks, bolt of canvass, boat's compass, Bowditch's chart, ensign. Two or three bags of biscuits, some breakers of water, quadrant, pencils and writing paper, half-gill measure, a musket, box of cartridges, and flints or caps. • Pocket instruments. Hammer, nails, sheet-lead, grease, fearnought, oakum, saw, chisel, turn-screw, cold chisel, a vial of sweet oil, any small iron rod. Coil of inch rope, long reel, deep-sea reel, paint- ed canvass, marling-spikes, spun-yarn, &c. Palm, needles, twine, fishing-lines, hooks, paint- ed canvass, boat's awning. Tinder-box. flints and tinder, small box, lantern and candles, cheese, cabin biscuit, chocolate. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 209 pocket knife, a change of flannels Each person. j A £ d S^JT With a scarcity of food, savages attempt to lessen the cravings of hunger by tightening a belt around the waist ; and by sucking a pebble they in some degree alleviate thirst. Chewing tobacco may also be serviceable under such circumstances. In such emergencies all must fare alike. . 388.— LOSING A RUDDER AT A CRITICAL MOMENT, (such as crossing a Bar, <$fc.) A ship might lose her rudder at a critical moment in crossing the bar of a river, when a few minutes more might run her aground, if she were unmanageable ; and in this case, what tem- porary rudder is best becomes a question for which a few moments only are given to decide. The plan of steering by the stream- cable payed out astern, or by the stern-boat lowered instantly, with the plug out, and towed astern by a hawser, with guys leading up to each quarter, would perhaps then be adopted ; while a ship losing her rudder at sea would have leisure to adopt any other plan. It might be an advantage, if every vessel would take some op- portunity of trying how she could steer with a stern-boat in the manner described, and what length of tow-line was required to enable her to steer the most easily, so as to avoid wild yawing. The experiment might be made in moderate weather with the wind on the quarter, and also right aft, under top-sails, top-gal- lant-sails and fore-sail, running five or six knots. Nothing gives confidence so much as practice. 389.— STEAMERS GETTING AGROUND. As steamers would probably do so with very fresh way on, they ought at once to stop their engines, but on no account to attempt to reverse them, until the extent of the injury be ascer- tained ; otherwise they may go down in deep water. Their first duty is to out boats, and place the passengers in safety in them ; the crew might then ascertain the state of the vessel ; if she is likely to float, and can be got off, the attempt to do so should be made ; but if not, the crew can take to the boats. 14 210 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 390.— ON THE DUTY OF REMAINING BY A DAMAGED VESSEL When two vessels have run foul of each other, the one which is the least injured is bound, by every sense of justice and hu- manity, to stay by the other to render every assistance in her power ; a contrary proceeding ought to make the guilty party liable to some punishment. If one appears likely to sink, the the boat lashings should be cut, that the boat or boats may be got out or float off. When freshly blows the northern gales, Then under courses snug we fly ; When lighter breezes swell the sails, Then royals proudly sweep the sky. PART VII MISCELLANEOUS SUBJECTS 391.— ON SQUARING YARDS. Simple as may seem the process of squaring yards, it is never- theless a piece of duty which requires considerable precision, and this precision can never be obtained without a knowledge of the principle upon which the yards should be squared. A boatswain, ignorant of this principle, will generally proceed thus : he first bouses taut the lower trusses, squares the yards by the braces, and, quite regardless of the distance of the topsail-yards from their respective caps, or looking to see if the yards are a-midships, directs the chief boatswain's mate to take his station on the end of the jib-boom, whilst he himself proceeds in the boat ahead of the ship to square the yards by the lifts. Should the fore-yard be required to be topped to starboard, the boatswain will top away upon the yard-arm until, by chance, he discovers he has topped it too high ; to remedy this eye sore, he sings out " Fore- yard to port" and tops until he raises the larboard arm as high as the starboard ; producing by this system of topping, and never settling, a most unsightly bow in the yard. He then squares the fore-topsail yard by the bowed fore-yard, and of course treats the fore-topsail yard to a bit of a bend likewise. He then takes the main yard in hand, which, though probably square by the lifts, can no longer look so in his eye, because the yard arms are not made to cock up like those of the fore yard. "Main yard to starboard" he sings out, with an audible voice ; the lift is topped several feet to starboard, and then to port, until the yard assumes the desired cock the boatswain has in his eye in squaring the loftier yards by the lifts. Boatswains seldom take the precaution to place hands to tend the top-gallant braces. It should be re- membered that the topping of the lifts alter and disturb the square position of the yards by the braces. These may appear minute 214 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; matters, but unless they be strictly observed, yards never can be properly squared. In squaring yards by the lifts, the lanyards should always be unrove to two or three turns, the jigger hooked to them and hauled taut ; and when topping on one lift always ease the op- posite lanyard with the jigger ; if not, the lanyard will render with jerks, and the yard will probably have to be topped the op- posite way. The lanyards should be rocked when sufficiently up, the plan of nipping with hands being a lazy, bad practice ; and after much time spent in getting the yards nicely squared, the lanyards have come up in securing. The ropes should be all hauled taut before the boat comes on board ; all the ropes coiled neatly and low in the tops ; nothing allowed to hang over the bows, which should be kept quite clear ; and everything done to make the ship appear in every respect what a man-of-war ought to be. Being particular in one part and not in another, has almost a worse appearance than slovenly altogether. As the ship is con- sidered a would-be man-of-war, and is the cause of many re- marks, which, if heard by the commanding officer, would not be at all complimentary to his nautical knowledge, if anything should be studied more than another, it is the standing rigging and position of the masts and yards, ; 2-0 ft r^co Kg. = ■ Og. p Sip- »-§. p-. He § O C C-^S.cd a?4 » re g_ » cn£.a ~; V IN O » f she conn heav < .S3 a .a c3 C3.22 £ • fN-fi o o3 a> ho « a CO .s s § < p3 -a Oi H W . J3 i- >> •fi 2 OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 259 486.— TO FIND THE TONNAGE OF A VESSEL, BY THE UNITED STATES' MEASUREMENT. The length is taken from the fore part of the main stern, to the after part of the stern-post. The beam is measured at the ex- treme breadth to the outside of the bends ; three-fifths this beam is taken off the length, before the calculation is made. For a double— decked vessel, half the breadth of beam, is called the depth of hold, and for a single-deck it is the same, except that the hold is measured at the fore part of the hatchway, from the deck down to the ceiling alongside the keelson. To proceed on in this calculation, after all the allowances have been made, the length must be multiplied by the breadth, and the product by the depth of the hold ; then divide the last product by 95, and the quotient will give the tonnage required. Formerly the British divided by 94, both for merchant vessels, and ships of war ; but I have been informed they now divide by 100, which is the reason that they make our ships' tonnage less than we do. Notes on the tonnage of a vessel. — The ship-carpenters' ton- nage in Philadelphia differs from the United States' measurement. A rule staff is laid under the keel, projecting ; a line is plumbed from the upper part of the stern to the rule staff; the keel is measured from its after part to the plumb line, and including the rule staff, this is called the length of keel straight rabbit. The beam is measured from skin to skin, on the inside ; three-fifths of the beam is taken off the keel straight rabbit, for the length, and the calculation, in other respects, is the same as in the United States' measurement ; so that the carpenters' tonnage in Phila- delphia will be less, according to the rake of the stern-post, &c. The dead rise of a vessel is found by having a staff half the beam from skin to skin, at the extreme breadth, which staff is laid even across on the ceiling of the fore part of the main hatch- way. One of the timber boards being taken up, a line is let fall from the staff to the skin alongside the keelson, and what it measures is the vessels dead rise ; so that in order to know how sharp a vessel is, it is customary to ask how much dead-rise she 487.— STEPPING AND BAKING LOWER MASTS. Foremasts of all ships should be stepped plumb, or perpendic- ular, to a water-line. All mainmasts should rake one inch to every four feet above deck, and all mizen-masts should rake one inch to every three feet above deck. All bowsprits should be 260 THE K EDGE- ANCHOR; stepped in a direct line, drawn from the step of the mainmast to the lower part of the bowsprit bed ; this line answers for the lower part of the bowsprit. It has been the opinion of many sea-officers, that a mast, by raking, will aid a ship in sailing ; but it has been satisfactorily proved, that it has the contrary effect : for instance, a ship that has her masts perpendicular only, has to bear them in two posi- tions ; the one on the step, and the other on the side of support ; her yards hang free, brace easy, and bear no strain against them ; whereas a ship with her masts raking, has to bear them in three positions — the one on the step, one on the side of support, and the other, which is very great, on the fore and aft stays ; her yards also hang very heavy against the mast, which adds also to the fore support. This must cause a great check in the pro- gressive movements in the ship. A sharp vessel or ship, with a lean harping, by raking her masts, frequently eases her in pitch- ing, but never adds to her sailing, the wind having less power on her sails, and the principal reason why a ship's main and mizen masts, should rake a little from her foremast is, that by separat- ing the masts in this way, the wind has a better chance of ef- fecting its full power on all the sails, and of striking that part of them, which otherwise would be of little or no advantage to the 488.— MOORING. It has been argued and proved, that if ships have room to lay at single anchor with chain-cables, they are more safe than when moored. The following example is given as an illustration. Let A be moored with 75 fathoms s. e. and n. w. and B be at single anchor, with the same scope of chain ; a gale commences from the s. w. ; the strain on each of A's cables is double the strain on B's. It blows harder, and B lets go her other bower, and veers 150 fathoms on the first, and 75 on the second cable. A also veers 150 fathoms on both cables, but B still keeps her advantage, the strain being only as 88 to 100 ; it is clear, therefore, that if either ship parts her cable, it must be A that will part first. If A had her mooring swivel on, she could hot veer with any advantage, as the strain on that part of the cable between the swivel and anchor must remain constant ; for this reason, it is obvious that moorings should not be laid down across the pre- vailing winds. The above may be shown practically by stretching a small line between two points, and suspending a weight in the middle ; see what weight it will bear, and afterwards try what the same line will bear vertically ; the latter will be the ship at single anchor, the former the one moored. PART IX. 489.— PREPARATIONS FOR HEAVING DOWN. CLEARING THE SHIP. The ship should be stripped to lower-masts and lower-rigging, cleared of everything excepting the spars and running-gear, which will be required for lashings ; top and gear-tackles, runners, luffs, pendant- tackles, and in fact all the tackles of every size. The hammock-nettings should be taken off, the loose bulk-heads re- moved, and everything that is not applicable to the operation to be performed, as it is desirable to have the ship as light as possi- ble. The lower yards should be kept aloft till the outriggers are placed. CHOICE AND POSITION OF THE OUTRIGGERS AND SHORES. If left to your own resources, and large, rough spars are not to be obtained, the following may be used for outriggers, three of which will be required for each mast ; i. e., fore and main. Main-mast. Fore-mast. 1 Main-topmast. 1 Fore-topmast. 1 Main-topsail-yard. 1 Fore-topsail-yard. 1 Half-yard (rough). 1 Cross-jack-yard. Note. — If you can get other spars, the yards should not be used. The spars should be placed in the main-deck-ports before and abaft the masts. When they are placed, the lower-yards, caps, tops and cross-trees may be sent down and landed. The shores should then be placed with their heels resting in shoes or the spare fishes, close out to the water-ways, and their heads between the trestle- trees before and abaft the mast-heads. 262 MAST-HEAD SHORES. Main-mast. Fore-mast. 1 Main-topmast. 1 Spanker-boom. 1 Fore-topmast. 1 Jib-boom. In preference to using belly-shores, I would recommend to fish the main-mast with the two mizen-topmasts, and the foremast with fore and main-topgallant-masts ; if no other spars are to be had, the topgallant-studdingsail-booms must be cut up for shores for the decks and outriggers. carpenters' work. In the mean time the carpenters should be employed in shoring the outriggers and decks under the beams, on which the mast- head-shores rest : good stages should also be prepared, the spare- shackle or gammoning-boits got ready ; the copper should be stripped where they are to be driven, viz. : before, abaft, and be- tween the outriggers, as low as convenient for driving, and fore- locking them on the inside, or as the water-line will allow. Note. — The holes should be bored slanting upwards, so that the martingales will rather tend to set them in than draw them out ; the shackles or rings of the gammoning-bolts should then be well parceled. SECURING THE OUTRIGGERS. In the meantime a party of riggers or seamen should be em- ployed to fit the martingales and outrigger-shrouds, and to strap the purchase-blocks. MARTINGALES. The size of the martingales must depend upon the angle which you are able to give them, as their size must increase as their angle becomes less. If the bolts are near the water-line, three parts of eight-inch for each outrigger will be found sufficient. The main outriggers should be cleated about eighteen feet from the side, for the rigging. The heels should be well shored down and securely lashed ; they should also be securely lashed down oi gammoned to the breeching-bolts or scupper-holes, and shored by diagonal shores in the angles of the port-sills, that the spars in rising may bring an equal pressure on all parts ; otherwise it would probably strain the top sides : the outriggers should also have a stout lashing to the train-bolts amidships. It the topsail- yards are used (which is not advisable when other spars can be obtained), the inner yard-arms must not be allowed to butt the ship's side, or water-ways ; they should have chain-snotters, and OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 263 must be shored in all directions. The fore-outriggers should be cleated about fifteen feet from the ship's side, and secured in- board as the main. In addition to the martingale, the three out- riggers for each mast may be connected by luffs boused well taut, and the stay-tackles may be used for fore and after-guys, which will bring all to a fair strain. Any farther security that may suggest itself at the time, according to circumstances, should not be omitted, as you will never err by being on the safe side. STRAPS FOR PURCHASE-BLOCKS. I would also recommend the straps for the purchase-blocks should be warped of new, three-inch rope, selvagee-fashion, instead of the large rope-strap. The upper one will take about two coils, which will give about twenty-eight parts in the strap. The strap being middled, and the block seized in, the eyes or legs should pass round the mast-head, and lash on the same side as the block, and above it, which will give four times twenty-eight parts of three-inch rope in the neck of the strap. PIT-BLOCKS. The length of the lower strap must vary according to the pit you heave down to. It should contain at least thirty parts of three-inch, and also have four parts of the strap in the neck. If the pit is deep, it will be better to warp two separate straps of half the length for the lower blocks. The same way for the fore- mast, which may be securely lashed as most convenient, but nei- ther of the blocks should be lashed at the mast-head until the outrigger-shrouds are over, set up hand-taut, and matted over all. Note. — A second or preventer-purchase is required to each mast. PREVENTIVE For the main-mast, two lengths of the stream-cable (well par- celed) may next be put over the main-mast-head ; these may be set up through the lower-deck-ports, and kept clear of the chan- nels by short outriggers of hard wood, with grooves in the outer end to receive the cable resting in the channels, butting against the ship's side, and cleated round the heel, to form a step ; the outrigger-shrouds for each mast may then go over. They should be about eleven-inch-rope ; they must be well parceled : dead- eyes or blocks may be used to set them up, as convenient. * Small sized chain-cable maybe used to a good advantage if it can be obtained. 264 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; For further security, the following purchases may be used. FOR THE MAIN-MAST, Two main-top-tackles lashed at the mast-head ; one set up at theimin-tack-bolts, the other to the after-quarter-deck-port ; two mast-head-runners to assist the main-stay ; two belly-stays of eleven-inch,* lashed one-third down the mast, and set up on the weather-side ; two main-yard tackles lashed one-third down ; one set up in the main-tack-bolts, the other, after-quarter-deck-port. FOR THE FORE-MAST. To assist the lower rigging, two threefold purchases lashed to the spare chain-plate-bolts ; two launches' purchases lashed to the mast-head, and set up, one to the cat-head, and the other to the after part of the fore-chains ; two runners lashed at the mast- head ; one set up to the cat-head, one to the chess-tree-bolts ; two belly-stays of eleven inch, one-third way down the mast, and set up half-way in on the bowsprit ; two fore-top-tackles one-third down the mast ; one to the cat-head, one to the chess-tree-water- ways, or scupper-holes, as most convenient. THE BOWSPRIT May be secured by the two fore-yard-tackles, hooked on the weather-side. THE MIZEN-MAST May be shored with one shore at the mast-head, and themizen- pendant-tackles and burtons may be used to assist the rigging, if considered necessary. SETTING UP THE RIGGING. The wedges being taken out, and the masts drawn over to the opposite partners, the shores may be cleated and lashed above the rigging, and below the trestle-trees with good worn rope of three or three-and-a-half-inch ; the lashing should be passed on both, with racking turns, hove taut by a Spanish windlass, the ends flapped round all parts, and secured ; the heels should also be lashed to the side, so that they can have no play forward or aft. The outriggers' and martingales being well set up to the span- shackle bolts, and secured otherwise as before mentioned, the lower rigging and outrigger-shrouds may be set up to a fair and equal strain, respectively ; the outrigger-shrouds may be a little tauter than the rigging, because they have a longer drift, and are les* strained when offering the same support ; in proportion, the ad- ditional purchases may then be set up. * i. e., -Supposing the vessel to be one of the largest class of frigates. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 265 There is one point in the foregoing arrangements that merits peculiar attention ; having once measured the distance between the mast-heads, and the same between your lower blocks, you must be careful to preserve the same distance between the mast- heads whenever you may have occasion to set up afresh ; if you neglect this, your mast spreads apart as the ship comes down, and the stays and rigging are unfairly strained. The slack of the opposite rigging should then be taken in, and a swifter should be rove to keep it from hanging in a bight as the ship goes down. When the masts are thus secured, the purchase-blocks may be lashed, and the shores wedged under the heels until they have taken part of the strain off the rigging. Care should be taken that the shore-heads are clear of the trestle-trees ; the strain should not be wholly upon the shores and deck, but each shroud and purchase must bear its proportion. PURCHASE FALLS. Eleven-inch fall tailed with eight inch, is sufficient for the heaviest ship in the service. If you have only your own re- sources, use the large hawsers tailed with the smaller, or what- ever rope is convenient in the store-room, which may suit the purpose. Note. — In reeving, use a small line for that purpose ; you will also save time and trouble by using the capstan* in reeving and overhauling the falls, which is a work of considerable time. Two-and-a-half-inch stuff is a good size for a reeving line. MAST-HEAD STOPPERS. Two good stoppers of eleven-inch rope should be fitted to each mast; they may go with a clove-hitch round the mast-head, the ends being long enough to reeve through the strap of the lower purchase-blocks, to hitch and seize back; a small jigger, and two balls of spun-yarn should be ready for each purchase ; the lead- ing block should also be lashed alongside of its respective pit- block with a long lashing, to allow the leader to rise high enough to clear the fall of the edge of the pit ; and stoppers must also be fitted for each leader-crab or capstan. The greatest attention is required to the leading of the falls, as the slightest chafe or rub, with so great a strain, might prove of serious consequence ; a sharp axe should be ready at each pit. * If at the wharf or navy-yard, cattle might be clapped on to reeve the fall with greater facility. 266 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; THE PIT. The formation of the pit, or sleeper, in which your lower block is secured, must vary so much in locality, that no general rule can be given. ANCHORS AND CABLES. The bowers may be landed, or used to moor the ship with, head and stern ; the sheet-anchors may next be laid out a-beam as tripping-anchors, at such a o distance according to the depth of the water, as may ensure their holding ; one should be abreast of the foremast, the other opposite the main-mast ; a stout haw- ser should be bent to the ring of each, and brought in at the second lower-deck port, abaft the main-mast, and first port abaft the foremast, on the same side as the anchors are laid out. The chains to these tripping-anchors should be tailed with a stream-cable, which is to pass under the ship's bottom and in at the quarter-deck port, abaft the main channels and second port on the forecastle ; these ports should be well lined, and stoppers fitted ready for fleeting j a three-fold purchase stretched across the deck, may be here applied, so that when you have tripped the ship off by the hawsers you may bouse the cables in taut, stopper and rack to the breeching-bolts. In tripping off, you must be careful to keep the ship parallel to the pits, or you may chance to bring one anchor iiome. caulking, &c. While the foregoing preparations are being made, the pumps should be shortened, to work on the lower deck. The caulkers and carpenters should be employed upon the side that is to be hove down, stopping the air-holes on all the decks, and thorough- ly caulking every seam or hole that will either be immersed, or exposed to the action of the water that may find admittance, particularly in the wake of the hammock-nettings that have, been removed, and round the quarter-galleries. Water' Line Arrangement of the Pumps, in heaving down. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 267 The caulking should be considered a very important point ; the smallest hole that can admit water must be carefully stopped. The main-deck ports must be filled up in the centre with plank, well caulked, and covered with tarred canvass ; the lower deck ports and scuttles thoroughly caulked in ; the holes for the port- pendants plugged, cross-caulked, and payed over, and the scup- pers made tight in the same manner ; and it must be remember- ed that want of attention to these particulars may cost you hours at the pumps, or perhaps oblige you to right the ship at a moment when you might advantageously continue the repair ; the hawse-holes and stern-ports need not be stopped^Vor they will not be near the water when the ship is keel out LADDERS, &C. Battens four inches deep, should be nailed fore and aft on each deck ; knotted ropes and Jacob's-ladders should be placed at con- venient distances, to secure ready access to every part of the ship, which is more difficult when she is down than would be ima- gined. Note. — The hatchway ladders should all be lashed. ARRANGEMENT OF THE PUMPS. If the water must be raised more than thirty feet, two sets of pumps will be required ; the lower ones must throw the water into tubs or tanks placed on the lower deck — the upper ones must be placed in these vessels, and raise it from them to the up- per deck ; for this purpose nine or ten pumps will be required ; they may be built square, of plank caulked in the seams, well parceled and woolded, or if timber can be had, may be formed by sawing straight spars in half lengthwise, and rejoining them after they are hollowed ; then parceling, tarring, and woolding all over. The number required being completed, the lower and orlop- decks must be scuttled, to allow the pumps to be placed at the required angle, so that their ends may rest a little below the orlop-wing gratings; the main and upper deck pumps may be sufficiently sloped in the hatchways with their heels in the ves- sels, which are raised on platforms inclined at an angle, to pre- serve their level when the ship is down. The pumps should have large holes in their nozzles, and troughs should be made to carry the water over the skids to lee- ward on the upper deck. Substantial platforms must be secured at the same angle, at convenient positions, for the men to work the pumps. The pumps should be tried before you heave down, to see that they are tight, and also when in position to see that the brakes work clear of the beams and comings. 268 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; Any fire engines that can be procured, should be worked in the hold on similar platforms, with their hoses led on deck. WEIGHT FOR HEELING AND TRIPPING SHIP. The rigging being set up, the purchase falls rove, the pumps rigged and all the foregoing preparations made, fifteen or twenty- tons of water in casks may be placed on the side to be hove down, and lashed to the breeching-bolts, &c., on the quarter-deck and fore-castle. PREPARATIONS FOR HEAVING. The ship may then be hove off by the tripping-hawsers to the distance of seventy or eighty feet from the pits, and the tripping- cables boused well taut. The men required to work the pumps and engines, should be on board, with a proportion of carpenters to stop small leaks, clear the pumps, attend the masts in the partners, &c. ; the hand-pumps should be used as long as they will act, so as to keep the ship perfectly dry ; the ' men ' should be to leeward on the upper deck, to assist with their weight the purchases ; at slack water you may commence heaving ; the ship will incline 15° before the slack of the falls is through, and will continue to close the pits until she is down to 35° ; she will then begin to go off. It must be remembered that the main-mast is to heave the . ship down ; the fore purchase is only an assistant, and must not be unfairly hove upon; avoid surging as much as possible; the moment the pumps will draw they must begin to work. When the ship is down the falls must be stoppered and racked, the mast-head stoppers passed, boused taut and secured; you may then walk back and reverse the falls upon the capstans, taking a turn round the bitts with the running part, which is to be hove off by the capstans as you ease up, and will cause less surging. • STAGES. Substantial floating stages having been previously made by the carpenters, should now be ready to haul in ; a large boat containing tool-chests and the stores necessary for stopping the leak, should be in attendance ; when the ship is down, not a single second should be lost ; let your men sing out cheer at the pumps, and forego that part of your discipline for a short time, which might be a hindrance to your immediate object. Watch narrowly the purchases and be ready to ease-up at a moment's warning, if they slacken or any of the gear carries away. In easing-up, when the main-deck scuppers are out of water, hold on, take the lead or canvass off that secured them, and let the water escape from the deck ; you may get rid of several tons thus with- out much labor. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 269 The carpenters must be careful in clearing the injured part, not to increase the leak by undertaking more than they are able to perform ; as a general rule, make all as tight as possible before you think of easing-up for the night. 490.— A DERRICK. What is termed a derrick, is a single spar rounded off at the heel to set in a shoe, (similar to a shear- leg;) the upper end is made with shoulders or cleats, to stop the pur- chase-block from working down, also the guys ; the derrick may be used for many purposes instead of shears to great advantage, espe- cially on board of merchant ships when discharging, it being so easily swung from a perpendicular posi- tion to rake over the ship's side, the heel resting in its shoe, and the head canted in any position by the guys ; any kind of a purchase may be used at a derrick-head, but the most general, is the single and double-burton. On the subject of providing means — few ships go to sea with- out a spare topmast or a spar to make one, which spar is in every way calculated for a derrick, if it will make a topmast. The rigging, (that is the various guys and ropes necessary to sustain it in its position,) and the purchase-blocks for lifting the weight, may be secured to the spar any height above the deck to suit the particular purpose in hand, without either cutting the spar, or nailing on cleats — as by a well managed arrangement of lashings, all slipping or shifting of position may certainly be prevented. Note. — The more a derrick approaches a perpendicular position, the less will be the strain upon the guys. 270 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; GENERAL CAUTIONS. In any very intricate Navigation, Anchor at night or when in doubt. Take frequent and short departures. Pay particular attention that the proper course is steered. Hand in the chains, and lead kept going. Good look out. Anchors ready, and cables clear. Canvass well regulated and be ready for bringing up. Boats ready, tackles at hand. Stream cable and hawsers ready. Top-gallant-mast-ropes rove. Taken in a Squall. A vigilant look out, will usually prevent your being taken by a squall in an unprepared state. If taken in a squall with the wind on the beam, before it, or close hauled, keep your luff, and lower away, and clew up all as fast as you can. In doing so the ship will be relieved, and the canvass got in better than if the helm had been put up. But if taken in a squall with the wind abaft ihe beam, putting the helm up, and running away from it, as well as shortening sail, will then be the readiest mode of easing a ship. (Remember this.) On Good Order — (Merchant Service). In a man-of-war, discipline is productive of the greatest good — the energies of all are called for, and employed as most requir- ed ; but even without martial law good regulations might, and ought to be established in every ship, at all times, and in all places. The greatest assistance to the promotion of good order, would be sobriety in seamen. The few shades in the sterling qual- ities which belong to them, many of their irregularities and acts of insubordination, may be traced to intemperance. They might abstain, perhaps, but they cannot refrain. If owners would give $1 a month in lieu of spirits, and have a mutual agreement respect- ing its use abroad, with a stipulated penalty for drunkenness, ships might be managed much more safely, and with greater ease and economy than at present ; half the work of discipline would then be effected. Where the men are sober, have entire confidence in their offi- cers, and are well treated, not harrassed unnecessarily, and see that the comforts they ought to have are properly attended to — I think it would be found in most instances, that effective good order would establish itself. Where it does exist, the vessel's ser- OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 271 vices are rendered in every way more effective and beneficial to her employers, as well as more agreeable to the officers, crew, and passengers, if any, and her chances of casualties considerably lessened. The remedy, too, is in a great measure in the hands of ship- owners and captains themselves ; for if they required certificates of sobriety before they would ship men, drunken ones would either remain unemployed or become sober, — for even a sober landsman, is more useful than a drunken sailor. On Cleanliness, as regards the Preservation of Life in Vessels. Nothing is toe trifling for an officer's attention, that tends to the health and benefit of those dependent on his care and fore- thought. Every vessel should be pumped out mormng and evening. A clean, sweet, and dry hold is essential to the health of the crew. Nothing can be more injurious than for men to sleep over bilge-water, which must be the case if any water is left in the hold at night. The hold ought to be cleared often, and when it is, it should be white-washed ; and also the between-decks frequently white- washed. On Painting. In tropical climates, avoid painting as much as possible, par- ticularly in-board. On the Health of Men, in the Merchant Service. In port, in tropical climates, give the men a little coffee before they go to work in the morning. The inconsiderate indulgence in new rum, has been one great means of increasing the numbers attacked with yellow fever. Do not allow the men to lay about in night dews ; and partic- ularly not to wait about at wharfs. Allow the men the use of fresh water whenever it can be spared, for washing clothes, and also for themselves. PART X 491.— EXPLANATION OF SEA TERMS. Aback. A sail is aback when its forward surface is acted upon by the wind. Abaft. The hinder part of the ship. Behind, thus abaft the foremast, means anything nearer to the stern than the foremast. Aboard. In the ship ; as the cargo is aboard. A ship is said to fall aboard when she runs foul of another. To get aboard the main-tack is to bring the clew of the mainsail down to the chess-tree. About. A ship is said to be going about, when in the act of backing ; the order for which is " ready about there." Abreast. Opposite to. Adrift. Broken loose from the moorings. Afloat. Swimming ; not touching the bottom. Afore. That part of the ship nearest to the stem or head. Aft. Behind ; as stand farther aft — stand nearer to the stern. After. Hinder, as the after ports — those ports nearest the stern — after sails, after hatchway, &c, &c. Aground. Not having water enough to float the ship, which rests on the ground. Ahead. Before the ship. A-lee. The helm is a-lee when the tiller is put to the lee-side. — " Hard-a-lee," when it is put as far as it will go. All in the toind. When the wind blows on the leeches or out- ward extremities of the sails, and causes them to shake. IS 274 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; All hands, ahoy. This word given by the boatswain and his mates at the hatchway to assemble the ship's company. Aloft. Up above ; in the rigging ; on the yards ; at the mast- head, CM 8 to • *-• CM '"' CM '"' •^ • | o o o o CO o o Oi CO 1-4 OS o o oo' o CO CM CM o 00 CM CO » s rH rH rt rH ^ $ O 3 00 s 8 Jo CM CO S5 3 O 00 8 rH CM £ o o o o o o o o o o o o O «— — O A % o o o o o o o o o o o o o 32 !• J o 00 •<* © to CO CM pH o _l r- ,_| "* *<3 OR 32 a u ► rH CM Cs 00 i> T* 00 l> to rH CM CM OS to « A *** O ■UIB3flg ^ < s «s U9AV0a CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM 32 » -a •jaaqg (M CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM rH ^ ^ "-" GC ■** a A -a S 8 S3 £ CO % CO 00 CO CO CM 00 m CO rH CM rH § to 32 j5 «j3 f o o © CM CO to o 34 CO 00 to o 00 i> o CO CM rH o 00 l- CM OS s i" * 7-1 i—i 1-1 1-1 rH r - 1 rH ,_l ss CO CO CO to o a o »- 1> >C5 os ifS o w J to Tt* -tf CO CO CM 32 h CO 00 CO os to" " »ft o to CM 00 00 -53 5? l 5 3 o CO o CO S3 OS CO CM o rH to *o r- CO rH 32 S •laaqs -2 u J9AVOa CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM cm o i o> t^ "* cU ,_i 00 CM to CO o o 00 O +B = CM •H *-< CM CM •- 1 "S 09 1 3- CM CO OS CM CM CM o o CO CM OS 1> CM to o to o CM CO 00 o £ S I O J> to CO CO rH 00 t^ to o o rH « •ttlB8i}g 6JD s •jgaqs CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM CM 1 1 1 1 1 32 •swn*) © o :* 00 3 to a CM to CM o 1 1 HI d}1EIH CM 00 r~ to CO CM T-t " © , 1 i 1 1 , 1 , 1 ■8 l 1 • 1 i 1 1 i 1 i • 00 £ H 4 i 1 • 1 i 1 $ m i 1 ri % d 5 O O -^ u *3 • • a> o d o o O 1 1 to T3 CM 1 01 9 i 2 d £ td «1 t3 CM T3 CO rl p? »T « O « a (3 g 1 Q 9 2 £ d Pi d d en d O O _o o .SP PQ d o o rd o 02 0) id Square. Small Round. > = o 3 \ A Sketch, showing the Names of the different parts of an Anchor. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 291 49 3. — A Table Showing the Weight, Size and Length of Guns and Carriages, U. S. Navy. SIZE OF GUNS. 42 Pounder, Long Gun, - 32 « - . - - . 32 « 32 " 32 " 32 « - . . - - 32 « 32 " 32 « 32 « 32 « ■ . . - - . 32 « 24 " Long Medium 24 " - - - - - 24 " 24 « 18 « 18 " 18 « - - - - - 12 « 9 " ..... 9 « - . . . . 12 inch Peace Maker r - - 10 inch Shell Gun, - - - 8 " " -.- 8 " " ... 8 " « .-- 8 '• " ... CARRONADES. 42 Pounder, 32 « ..... 32 " ..... 32 " - . - . - 24 " ..... 24 l < ..... WEIGHT OF GUN. cwt. qrs. lbs. 70 61 51 60 50 42 2 61 2 41 41 32 51 43 49 49 49 32 38 0.0 40 36 23 18 18 150 136 3 9 63 68 2 64 53 27 20 21 19 13 15 WEIGHT OF CARRIAGE. cwt. qrs. lbs. 8 2 8 1 9 1 8 6 3 6 3 5 2 5 2 4 3 3 3 LENGTH OF GUN. 7 2 6 2 14 5 2 6 1 2 4 2 4 2 2 7 4i H 4 7 2 TOTAL. 9 7 7 6 8 6 1 5 11 8 10 9 1 8 10 8 4 4 3 4 1 4 2 3 7 3 9 cwt. qrs. lbs. 59 2 50 3 70 3 49 55 3 55 3 43 2 45 2 27 3 21 3 34 2 25 2 14 18 2 21 292 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 494.— A Table showing the Weight of Chain Cable. 150 Fathoms of 2£ inch weighs 150 u 2* 150 u 2 150 u m 150 a H 150 u if 150 u m 150 « if 150 a if 150 a i* 150 u H Pounds. - 45 249 - 37 400 - 37 372 - 34 125 - 32 225 - 27 192 - 25 350 - 23 934 - 17 204 - 14 384 - 11 921 495. — A Table showing how many Fathoms make 112 Pounds of 4-strand shroud-laid Rope. 486 fath. feet in. of 313 ' 3 " « 216 < 3 (i ft 159 ' 3 ft " 124 ' 3 ft " 96 < 2 (( (( 77 ' 3 " » 65 ' 4 ft << 54 < a " 45 < 5 c< 2 <{ 39 ' 3 " ft 34 ' 3 C( 9 u 30 ' 1 (( 6 ft 26 < 5 ft a 24 < a ft 21 ' 3 " ft 19 ' 3 a ft 17 « 4 « ft 16 « 1 f< (( 14 < 4 ft a 13 ' 3 (( a 12 « 2 ft IC 11 < 3 « u 10 « 4 " (< 9 < 5 (( " 9 < 1 " (i 8 ' 4 (i a 1 inch in si ze. 8 fath. 3 feet 6 in. n « 7 < ' 3 " 6 « 1J 7 ' < " 8 < : If 6 < < 4 " 3 « 2 6 < i 2 ic i » 2i « 6 < « o « » 2ft < 5 ' « 4 « o ■ « 2| < 5 ' « 2 « " 3 < 5 « « « « 3* ' 4 ' c 5 « o « 3| < 4 < « 4 « 1 " 3| ' 4 < ' 2 « 1 <( 4 4 ' i I « o " 4* ' 4 ' ' " 3 « 4* < 3 ( i 5 « 7 ft 4f ' 3 « « 4 « 1 « 5 3 < t 3 «« 3 « 5i ' 3 ' ' 2 " 3 « 5£ ' 3 « ' 2 » 1 " 5f < 3 ' ' 2 " << 6 3 < « 1 « 8 « 6* ' 2 : < 5 » 3 « 61 ' 2 ' « 4 « 9 « 6| ■ 2 ' < 4 « « 7 2 < c 3 « 6 c« 7i ' 2 ■ < 2 " 4 « 7§ < of 7f inches in size. 8 ^1^3 ^ Hi Hi .$8.2 8 +, a) oi-<-> s '=°«i O w .2 ? ~«>;* Cm £«** «! £iS CDOOOCOOCOCOO £ HOOlOCOrHOaHH a co cm cm cm cm cm r-t cm m S'Se °5g ||1 wis c J0G U ui OOOOOOOOOD 2 £* CM I- t* CM O 00 © CT> ■^■^fOCOCOpoCMeOCM I a I ScSSSSS^C&ScS £ 3 H .s S oooooooo o CMCMCMCMCMCMCMCM fi'fig 02 bo <§ £ «§ •T3 t3 id S.& 1^ s| Si 5ij So ■5 B £ >5-a < 3 co^otoy^tototototD P &3 |3- £ & M» t.]CS V5|<0 «!» C#0 e*0 . I I I I i-iCMCO-rhifi«Ol>Q0Ci 6 dodo d d d d of O M T3"d a> a> tn tn PP »-iCMC5T*no | x>r-aDairH d d d d d d d d d d O o o 1= Rj HI I I <4 VI OJO lQ o rW CCJ 6> n3 --? T3 .g Kj O tn to «1 a m ffio "S GO bo bo ^ o pq bo '6 Rj Rj o CI SS ri OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 301 507.— Cordage Table, showing the Weight of one Fathom Rope, from 1 inch to 24 inches inclusive, plain laid 3-strand, such as used for running rigging, &c. Size Rope. lbs. oz. Size K 1 inch weighs - . - . •3f 9i H " « - - - .5f 9i l* « K - - - .Si 9* { A « " - - - AH 9f 2 « « - .14f 10 2* « a - , - 1.2f 10J 2* « « - - - 1.7 10* 2f « « - - . l.H-l lOf 3 « a - - 2.1* 11 3* « a - - - 2.7 ll i 3* « • i 2.13* 11* 3f « a - . - 3.2f llf 4 " n - - - 3.11 12 4* " u . 4. If 12 i 4* " « - - - 4.10f 12* 4f « « . - - 5.3f 12f 5 « « ... 5.12* 13 5* " « - - - 6.5f l H 5* " " - - - 7. 13* 5f « « _ - . 7.9* 13-g- 6 « « ... 8.4f 14 6* " « - - - 9. 15 6* « « - . - 9.1 If 16 6f " « - - - 10.8 17 7 " « - - - H.4f 18 7£ " a ... 12.2 19 7* " « - - - 13.0* 20 7} " « - - - 13.13f 21 8 « « - - - 14.12* 22 8£ " « - . - 15.11* 23 8* " « - - - 16.10* 24 8f « « - - - 17.10* 9 inch weighs - - 18.10-f 19.1 If 20.13f 21.14| 23.1* 24.3* 25.7 26. llf 27.14£ 29.1* 30.9 31.14 33.3 34.9* 36. 37.8 38.15 40.8* 42. 43.9* 45.4} 52.0* 59.5 66.10 74.10 83.2 92.11 102.1 112. 122.3 134.6 Rule to find the weight of any sized Rope. — A rope of 1 inch circumference re- quires 486 fathoms to make one hundred weight. The superficial part of all cir- cles being in proportion to the square of their diameters, consequently the square of their circumference. Therefore, a rope of 1 inch in circumference, whose square is one, has 486 fathoms to a cwt. ; and, therefore, 486 being divided by the square of the circumference of any rope, the quotient will give the number of fathoms. For instance, 9X9 = 81)486(6. The number of fathoms in a cwt. 486 Rule to find the weight of 120 fathoms of any sized Cable. — Multiply the circum- ference by the circumference, and divide the product by 4, and the quotient will be the number of cwts. in 120 fathoms. 302 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; iCBJSJIOBa O •£ ©D a CD CD CD S3 m£5 CD 'CD o -a 3D © •spnoiqg q £ iiBjsqoBg W X spnojijs -Jff -X •spnonjs o o o p o tj" o" vri i> j> i— i O O i— i r-i ooo oooo w o o o o o OOOO ooooooo O tH ^ "* O rf -«3< s o oooo r - o od cm o" S ^ ClOOOOOO ooocoooo aio'H OOO 5 ooooo £ CO .-H O CM CM o o oo ooo ooo o t-*-^« CO CM CM p p p p p o r-t od a* o" ooooooo o o eo o J> o' tj5 ooo co'o'o "^ ^ CO iJBJS3[0Ba Q "X spnojqg •£) -j, p O O O O o oo cio ao OOOOOOO j> o" eo co o" od cm' CO CM CM CM CM »-i CM OOO o oaoH ^ o as oo oo ooooo ooooooo ooo o C-" c* O Orf XBjsqDua K "X spnoiqs-WX OOOOO ooocoooo ooo CO cm' o cm cm' o CM O i-J cm' t-hOOOOOO QOQOt^ ooooo p p pco op p cm" ao' o" o" c" o co' O ^ t* tJh rri ■* ri< ooo •spnoitig ooooo OOOOOOO ooo o Ho CM* Jr-" ^ Tt* "^ CO ^B?S3[0Ba •£) 'J, spnoiqs •£) -J, ^BjsjfOBa 'Vi. "X •spnoiqg *iv[ - X •spnojqg OOOOO O CM O O* CO •^ CO CM O ^ p p p p p p p H "* 00 O o' '* o* CM >-h O O ~* OO pop o to'cjd (M ooooo j> ooooooo ooooo ooooooo a ooooo ooooooo ooo ooo CO CO CO ooooo ooooooo ooo o o o* o r* co" oo o" cm o ao »-J O O "* O O "* Tt« Tt*>>.£>£ "S "S § 02 fc fr H H H H H c! <" OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 303 S3 be © 09 OS "jqSia^v QO 00 t- O o o o x 6 i io cq e* (» ih rt •J3}90TDia Ci CO O tti 00 O "^ 1> 00 t- i^ d d d ^ t»J co i e ■** S iq3|8A t^oo J>-o 00 rH l- ^ Ci eo I d d cm' d d i> i CO CM CM ^h •jajaraBya CM liO OOOX 1 ** Ci Tfi IT- ^ 1> , O dd"^"* CO OB "3 ej ■?q3i3A\. rH kfi in CM CCOO'* 1 d d co" id o* 1 r^CO CM -h r-i o •J3}9lirBIao" CO d o o 1 JOJ3}9UIBia to ox tj* i> 1 «# O J 1 CM 1 cox o o © d d d tj5 -^ CO Ci CO 3D s h 8 iqSpAV 000)00000) d cm d © cm d co d d co x -^ x x" C O O h N h CM O 1 CM rH CMCO X — O CM X odd f-J t-h CM >d MOTji XCM CO — > •qj2u3i © © © Ci © © o d ©' d d d d © l« 1 CO COJ>XCi — d CO ^ CM cm' © h H •?q2j3AV oooooooooo ooeJododfSHH ' r^ o r^ d cm co' cm' d cm' »> CM O O -iOO r-< i-j cm d d d cm d -h' d x X CO "* — < •ijlSuaT ©©©©©©©©©© cidcJoicii>cddd^ ' CO t^QOOH d CO t}5 CM CM" 6D - •pB3i jo jq5iaAV coio^miOHO CMXOr}^H cdoox'di>xco'd x oco — i I o in o o d-^cd i-i X t- O _;OCiiO OO gr-Ji-jOS ■ ^O ScJOiQD r-Ir^ fi-Tti tth o XCO CO CO — noqg jojajaareja ■<# |H O 1- © ~* oq-o^ooTi; ^ O Tt< X CM CO CM CO 1 O t^ 73 -M o t--^ o CO cm" CM ^h CO CO CO I^CO XXCO | oo l>t-X ' OOh CMCM d l^d •aiqipo oaot~»r-nft«*?Dto XOO©CMCM— iifj OCMOJO^OXO OOONO^^Ou') ccddifio^^M C5 — i CO CM "^ O CM O? i-; x ^ p CO CM ! CM r-i ..." oo co co* d x' d ■ U © 04 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ■ §J • ' ■ i t ■ i i i nd tn 5 o 3 ^ JSP & -S m § g £ & § • I 1 1 1 I cd i i i i i "o g J" "5 erf fi o j« o, ^^5 ? § § § .SP.3 304 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR ; 5io. — A Table showing the Quantity of Provisions, Slop Clothing and Small Stores, for 200 men, for four months, in the U. S. Navy. SMALL STORES. Tobacco (plugs) - - - - Soap (bars) ------ Mustard (bottles) - - - - Pepper (bottles) ----- Knives (1 each) - - - - Spoons (1 each) - - - - - Fine Combs (1 each) - - - Coarse Combs (1 each) - - Tin Pots (1 each) - - - - Tin Pans (1 each) - - - - Scrubbing Brushes (1 each) Ribbon (pieces) ----- Tape (pieces) Needles (papers) - - - - White Thread (pounds) - - Blue Thread (pounds) - - Thimbles (1 each) - - - - Beeswax (cakes) - - - - Blacking (boxes) 1 - - - - Scissors (1 pair each) - - - Shoe Brushes (1 pair each) - Mittens (1 pair each) - - - Cotton Handkerchiefs - - SLOP CLOTHING. Mattresses (1 each) - - - - Blankets (2 each) - - - - 1,000 800 100 100 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 100 100 100 50 50 200 100 200 200 200 200 50 200 400 Pea-jackets ------ Trowsers (1 pair each) - - Duck Frocks (1 each) - - Duck Trowsers (2 pairs each) White Flannel Shirts (2 each) Blue Flannel Shirts (2 each) Drawers (2 pairs each) - - Hats (1 each) Shoes (1 pair each) - - - Stockings (2 pairs each) - - ■ Black Handkerchiefs (1 each) Boots (1 pair each) - - - PROVISIONS. Bread (pounds) 22,320 Beef (pounds) 14,652 Pork (pounds) 10,914 Flour (pounds) 1.819 Raisins (pounds) ----- '910 100 200 200 400 400 400 400 200 200 400 200 200 Tea (pounds) Sugar (pounds) - Rice (pounds) - Beans (pounds) - Pickles (pounds) Vinegar (gallons) Spirits (gallons) 400 3,210 3,636 5,460 1,819 228 750 Allowing per centagefor waste. N. B.— All recruits, when received on board of receiving-ships of the U. S. Navy, are required to have an outfit in slop clothing, &c, of one blue clcth jacket, one pair of blue cloth trowsers, 2 duck frocks, one pair of duck trowsers, two blue flannel shirts, one pair of drawers, one hat, one pair of shoes, two pairs of stock- ings, one black silk handkerchief, two pounds of tobacco, two pounds of soap, one knife, one tin pot, pan and spoon ; the greater part of which they have when transferred to vessels for sea-service. This being the case, there is no necessity for having the full amount, as above stated, in slops and small stores in the pur- ser's department, for issue in the course of four months. QUANTITY OF WATER FOR EACH CLASS. Ships of the Line — Three Decks, 110,000 gallons ; Two Decks —1st Class, 82,000 gals. ; 2d Class, 78,000 gals. ; Razees, 55,000 gals. ; Frigates— 32 Pounder. 48,000 gals. ; 24 Pounder, 43,000 gals. ; 18 Pounder, 34,900 gals. ; Sloops— 32 Pounder, 21,000 gals. ; 24 Pounder, 19,000 gals. ; Sixteen 32 lb. Carronades, 15,000 gals. ; Brigs, 8,000 gals. ; Brigantines and Schooners 7,900 gals. ; Steamers— 1st Class, 23,500 gals. ; 2d Class, 10,000 gals. ; 3d Class, 5,000 gals. ; Receiving Vessels — Ships of the Line, 14,600 gals. OR YOUNG SAILORS* ASSISTANT. 305 511. — Exhibit of the Navy Ration, Showing the component parts for each day of the week, and the vahie at which they are to be computed, under the 2d, Mh and 5th Sections of the Act of Congress, " To establish and regulate the Navy Ration," ap- proved 29th August, 1842. Pounds. Ounces* Pints. Days of the Week. 0) M 1 1 1 1 4 o Ol, 3 fa a s 2 o'| "ST5 ■a-g .as faO Q 3 M ■f) * £ 8 1 2 1 4 Either. s Sunday ------- Monday Tuesday ------- Wednesday - - - - - Thursday ------ Friday ------- Saturday Weekly Gluantity - - - 1 1 1 3 h h 1 1 2 1 2 1 4 i i i i h 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 98 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 14 I 4 4 I 4 1 1 ! i i 1 1 1 1 1 1 7 7 2 2 4 2 2 4 J i i 1 4 i i H VALUATION OF THE WEEKLY GLUANTITY, &c. 3 pounds of Pork - - lh cents pei pound, - - - 22£ cents 4 " Beef - - 6 " « - - - 24 « 1 " Flour - - 4 <( « _ - . 4 « 1 " Rice - - 3 " (C _ _ _ 3 " i " Raisins, &c. - - 13 " (C - - - 6* « i " Pickles, &c. - - 12J <( M - - - 6* " 98 ounces of Bread - - 4 u (( . - _ 24* " 14 Sugar - - 8 u (« - - - 7 « If « Tea ) 7 Coffee > of same ral. 80 u (( . _ _ 8| « 7 " Cocoa ) 4 Butter - . - 23 ti .« . _ _ 5| " « Cheese - - - 16 u « . - _ 4 « 1£ pints of Beans - - 24 It gallon - - - 4£ « i " Molasses - - 64 (( u - - _ 4 « £ " Vinegar - - - 20 « (C - _ - H " If " Spirits - - - 64 u C( - - - 14 « Averaging 20 cents per day, or weekly SI. 40 The foregoing exhibit of the component parts, &c, of the Navy Ra- tion, has been compiled in pursuance of the act of Congress, and will be strictly observed by commanders of vessels and by pursers, as a regulation of this Department, prescribing the daily issue of provisions, and the valuation at which they are to be commuted. All persons " attached to vessels for sea-service, : ' are entitled individually to one ration per day. Every commissioned or warrant-officer, of, or over, twenty-one years of age. may, at his option, commute the entire ration, or only the spirit 20 306 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; portion of it : provided the commutation, in either case, be made for not less than three consecutive months. And every other person, of the above-named age, entitled to a ration, may commute the spirit component, under the limitation of time, unless sooner detached, or entitled to a discharge. No officer or other person, under twenty-one years of age, shall be permitted to draw the spirit part of his ration. Its value in money, as estimated by the foregoing table, will be credited to him by the purser, and paid whenever the commander of the vessel, to which such officer or person may belong, shall direct. The messes of a ship's crew may, with the sanction of the command- ing officer, commute, daily or weekly, one or more entire rations, for not less than three months (unless sooner detached, or entitled to a discharge) ; the commutation to be paid by the purser, at such times as the said commanding officer shall deem fit. Pursers having the delivery of rations, will make out and transmit, monthly and otherwise, by the earliest opportunities, to the Bureau of Provisions and Clothing of this Department, abstracts of provisions, agreeably to such forms as may be furnished to them from that bureau, approved by the Second Comptroller of the Treasury ; their provision accounts, as heretofore, will be rendered to the Fourth Auditor's office. A. P. UPSHUR, Secretary of the Navy. AN ACT TO ESTABLISH AND REGULATE THE NAVY RATION. Sec. 1. Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of America, in Congress assembled. That the navy ration shall consist of the following daily allowance of provisions for each person : — One pound of salted pork, with half a pint of peas or beans ; or one pound of salted beef, with half a pound of flour, and a quarter of a pound of raisins, dried apples, or other dried fruits ; or one pound of salt beef, with half a pound of rice, two ounces of butter, and two ounces of cheese ; together with fourteen ounces of biscuit, one quarter of an ounce of tea, or one ounce of coffee, or one ounce of cocoa, two ounces of sugar, and one gill of spirits ; and of a weekly allowance of half a found of pickles or cranberries, half a pint of molas- ses, and half a pint of vinegar. Sec. 2. And be it further enacted, That fresh meat may be substituted for salt beef or pork, and vegetables or sauer-kraut for other articles usually issued with the salted meats, allowing one and a quarter pounds of fresh meat for one pound of salted beef or pork, and regulating the quantity of vegetables or sauer-kraut, so as to equal che value of those articles for which they may be substituted. Sec. 3. And be it further enacted, That, should it be necessary to vary the above described daily allowance, it shall be lawful to substitute one pound of soft bread, or one pound of flour, or half a pound of rice, for OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 307 fourteen ounces of biscuit ; half a pint of wine for a gill of spirits ; half a pound of rice for half a pint of peas or beans ; half a pint of beans or peas for half a pound of rice. When it may be deemed ex- pedient by the President of the United States, Secretary of the Navy, commander of a fleet or squadron, or a single ship, when not acting under the authority of another officer on foreign service, the articles of butter, cheese, raisins, dried apples (or other dried fruits), pickles and molasses may be substituted for each other and for spirits ; pro- vided the article substituted shall not exceed in value the article for which it may be issued, according to the scale of prices which is or may be established for the same. Sec. 4. And be it further enacted. That in cases of necessity the daily allowance of provisions may be diminished or varied, by the discretion of the senior officer present in command ; but payment shall be made to the persons whose allowance shall be thus diminished, according to the scale of prices which is or may be established for the same ; but a commander, who shall thus make a diminution or variation, shall report to his commanding officer, or to the Navy Department, the necessity for the same, and give to the purser written orders, specifying particu- larly the diminution or reduction which is to be made. Sec. 5. And be it further enacted, That no commissioned officer, or midshipman, or any person under twenty-one years of age. shall be allowed to draw the spirit part of the daily ration ; and all other per- sons shall be permitted to relinquish that part of their ration, under such restrictions as the President of the United States may autho- rize ; and to every person who, by this section, is prohibited from drawing, or who may relinquish, the spirit part of his ration, there shall be paid, in lieu thereof, the value of the same in money, accord- ing to the prices which are or may be established for the same. Sec. 6. And be it further enacted, That the provisions of this act shall go into effect, in the United States, on the first day of the succeeding quarter after it becomes a law ; and in vessels abroad, on the first day of the succeeding quarter after its official receipt ; and any acts, or parts of acts, which may be contrary to, or inconsistent with, the pro- visions of this act, shall be and are hereby repealed. BERTH-DECK, OR SAILORS' MESS-TABLE. 308 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 512.-TABLE For finding the Distance of an Object by two Bearings^ and the Distance run between them. 1 1 « - ,A ggf DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE COURSE AND FIRST BEARING IN POINTS sl-s OF THE COMPASS. 2S.S hs§l |j OOCQ 1 3i 4 2 2* 3 3*. 4 4| 5 5* 6 6i 7 7i ' 2 8 A 9 9* 10 1.00 4* 0.81 1.23 5 0.69 1.00 1.45 5* 0.60 0.85 1.17 1.66 6 0.54 0.74 1.00 1.35 1.85 6* 0.49 0.67 0.88 1.14 1.50 2.02 7 0.46 0.61 0.79 1.00 1.27 1.64 2.17 7* 0.43 0.57 0.72 0.90 1.11 1.39 1.77 2.30 8 0.41 0.53 0.67 0.82 1.00 1.22 1.50 1.87 2.41 8* 0.40 0.51 0.63 0.76 0.92 1.09 1.31 1.58 1.96 2.50 9 0.39 0.49 0.60 0.72 0.85 1.00 1.18 1.39 1.66 2.03 2.56 9i 0.38 0.48 0.58 0.69 0.80 0.93 1.08 1.25 1.46 1.72 2.08 2.60 10 0.38 0.47 0.57 0.66 0.76 0.88 1.00 1.14 1.31 1.51 1.76 2.11 2.61 10* 0.38 0.47 0.56 0.65 0.74 0.84 0.94 1.06 1.19 1.35 1.55 1.79 2.12 2.60 11 0.39 0.47 0.56 0.64 0.72 0.81 0.90 1.00 1.11 1.24 1.39 1.57 1.80 2.11 2.56 11* 0.40 0.48 0.56 0.63 0.71 0.79 0.87 0.95 1.05 1.15 1.27 1.41 1.58 1.79 2.08 2.50 ! 12 0.41 0.49 0.57 0.64 0.71 0.78 0.85 0.92 1.00 1,08 1.18 1.29 1.41 1.57 1.76 2.03 2.41 12* 0.43 0.51 0.58 0.65 0.71 0.77 0.83 0.90 0.97 1.03 1.11 1.20 1.29 1.41 1.55il.72 1.96 The Table is to be entered with the number of points con- tained between the ships head and the first bearing of the object, at the top, and with the number of points, reckoned the same way, between the ship's head and the second bearing, at the side ; the number in the table at the intersection of the two col- umns being multiplied by the distance run, is the distance from the object at the time the last bearing was taken. Example. — A Light-house bears N. W., and after running W. by S. 8 miles, it bears N. N. E. ; the number of points be- tween W. by S. and N. W. is 5, and that between W. by S. and N. N. E. is 11 ; then under 5 points at the top, and abreast of 11 points at the side, stands the number 0.9, which being multi- plied by 8 gives 7.2 miles, the distance at the time of the last (N. N. E.) bearing. If the bearings are observed to quarter points, the numbers may be taken out accordingly ; this needs no example. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 309 513. — Dimensions of the Masts and Spars of the U. S. Steam-ship Princeton. Above Deck. 49 ft. 2 in. Fore-mast, 70 ft. Head, 53 ft. Main-mast, 74 ft. " 46 ft. 8 in. Mizen-mast, 54 ft. 6 in. " Fore and Main Top-mast, 42 ft. " Do. Top-gallant M., 22 ft. Hoist, 1 4 ft. 6 in. Royal 9 ft. Pole-cap, 8£ in. Mizen Top-mast, 33 ft. Head, 5 ft. 6 in. Cap, 1 1 in. " Top-gallant Mast, 18 ft. Hoist, 12 ft. Royal, 7 ft. Pole, 6f in. 12 ft. Diameter, 24£ in. 12 ft. a 25 in. 10 ft. u 18iin. 7 ft. 6 in Cap, .14} in. Ft. In. Fore and Main Yard, - - - 68. " « Top Yard, - - 54. " " Top-gaFt Yard, 37. " " Royal Yard, - 25.6 Mizen Yard, ------ 54. • 39. ■ 26.6 19. 25.6 24. ■ 19. ■ 47.6 ■ 39. 45.6 Top-mast Steering-sail Booms, 35. " Top Yard, - - " Top-gallant Yard, " Royal Yard, - - Bowsprit (Outboard), - Jib-boom " Flying " " Spanker-boom, - - - Spanker-gaff, - - - - Swinging-booms T. G. M. Royal " Lower " Top-mast " t. a. m. " Royal « Mizen Try-sail Mast, Yards, 28. 19. 17. 21. 16. 10. 38. Ft. Arms, 4 it U In. Inch. Sling, 15£ .6 " 6 " .3 " u a a u Inb'd, 20 ft. Head, 3. - - - - "5. - - - - "2. --- - "8. 13 7f 5* 13 9 6} 4 Bed, 25 Cap, 13| " 8 Slings, 9 7 8 7 5i 3* 5 5 4 3 7£ The Fore-mast from top of deck to top of kelson is buried, The Main-mast " " " " " The Mizen-mast " " " " Which leaves the Fore-mast just And the Main-mast, Length between perpendiculars, - Length of Spar-deck, - Length of Keel, - Extreme breadth of Beam, - Depth of Hold to Spar-deck, - Dead rise at half breadth, - Ft. In. 20. 4 20. 7 7.10 69. 8 73. 7 156. 165. 2 142. 9 30. 21. 2. 8 310 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; S.s 1 o fee a fee »9 S.S S 2«i» a 03 -a vz oe « I,- *.a "3 Ha **» a-" &g a ■ I • O £ 2 CO I PL, BO I 1 I ^ £ S -a H ia & & ess tt> M G O O ra ^ PQ PQ O S 1 2 .a i» •el* if « ►*0 M» •«• n d »H *-i *£ §<° H» g a. ,g o o £"d •*> d 02 o Ha .2 "l« H» .S d H» >4s ■"< tf J # d Eh 1* rH S3 H 03 j* S Eh § . "I* •s» Q -«! jS^ r rti „ a 2 02 o U BlO 5 55 d .5 -, ^— ' 1 2 cd m -C o o O i s cd •s -d 1 s at 5 03 1 I Cd 03 -4-> i o S 4 = bo d "S OJ Oh cd a 33 cd O d • 2 oT 1 « O d , o oT 2 I - ' 03 bo c I 2 * •fH of & d d i d 'id ^d O 'cd ,d O 05 d 3 O <+H 1 •s d 2 OJ 1 o 2 = d Pm: Si o 03 « of o "5 03 m = o 1 2 g o id g ■ cd o cd s d co So s o 05 s o "cd d a> H a" O H C J25 312 515. — A Table showing the Dimensions of the Masts FRENCH SHIPS AS PUBLISHED, AND Three-deck Ships. Two-deck Ships. AMERICAN. ENGLISH. FRENCH. First Class. AMERICAN. ENGLISH. a 3 | 5 J3 s ►J g 5 A to c o 5 J3 c S s 3 A a a S 5 5 a § s c i 3 c •3 0> § 5 rj a I 3 Ft. In. Inch Ft. In. Inch. Ft. In. Inch Ft In. Inch Ft. In. Inch. Ft. In Inch. Ft. In. Inch Ft. In. Inch 191.8 50. "" — - 176. 47.6 - 179.11 47. - - - - - 151.5 40.1 - 151.2 38.4 105.5 17. 65.5 9. 38i 21| 117. 20. 70. 10. 36.5 21.5 93. 18. 56.2 9.1 36 m 95.8 15.11 60.2 9. 36| 20* 105. 18. 63. 9.7 34.6 19.3 95. 16. 56. 9.6 31.5 17. 77.6 15. 46.10 7.6 28 161 81.2 13.1 52.10 7.11 29i 171 34.2 llf 41. 12. 29.0^ a 33. in 37.6 11. 33.6 10. 23.8 9 30.11 101 18.1 - 24. 9.5 21. - 13. - 22. 8.8 20. 6.6 19. - 17. 95.11 15.11 59.11 8.2 36| 21! 105. 18. 63. 10.6 33. 21.5 84.9 16.6 50. 8. - 88,5 14.11 57.11 7. 36h 20j 95. 16. 56. 9.6 31.5 19.3 86. 14.6 51. 8.4 28. 17. 71.1 13.9 41.6 6.8 25 16| 72.1 12.1 48.1 7.2 26* 171 •29.10 15 in Ships of the Line ; 20 in Frigates; 15 in Sloops. ' ^ * m •HXNOW H3J AV l-H l-t TH l-i l-( rH rH rH rH C« 1-H © uapunojssl^p » ,MHHH rHrHOOrHrHrHrHrH rHrHrHr-^CClrH as a a it % •J9punoj8l|'~ l I^HHH rH (?) C« rH rH rH rH rH rt rHHrtlHCC(M|00 uapunoj^l' -1 IrHHHH HlMISHHHrtH rH rH 1-H rH rH T*l CSJ 1 0) r •japuno j ss 1 l ~ l IU5HHH rH(MC^r-HrHrHrHrH H HHHH^W|0 r saazTtu I 1-1 | tO rH rH rH rH CO (M rH rH rH rH rH rH i-i rH rH rH T^ ^ 1 r-< r | 5B m W O w •ssbjo ps ^H HflQoooQooQOoooinooQOknxQOvnacin'?»or. | ■janiBais I I I I I l •japjo jBpads Xg •sayeSuj I I l I I I •i3pio jBioads ig auiq aqjjo'sdiMS I I I I I I ■SSB[0 P8 I I IC* I I I I I I .-100 00 00 |C? •SSBIO p3 » I 00©* 1-H l-< CO uapunoj gg kt< I Q0CQ^W(M«r-(^ _0}^ rt ___COC? § saazu-ji h* 00 O O "O CO 00 00 C* lO *-< — C3 t" iococ*^* looo-^aoc^oi SSBJ0 }SI tf5 i-H t-H •saoaag .-i I C* -* r*< oo 09 C3 £ O O "* rt *-> O c c b. a> oj .S .S -f3 « !? f f k kj d Oh 12 «* .... II MO 2g ^02 c-P £-* g a *- O con ,*«Sg P- Oh p\ Oh O-SS^^H^^Kflc- J» S fi d tJ{ r-Jj CO O <3<30 O O O O Ph <3 CO CO rt O ■ frl- <5^ 316 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; so a B5 • OB as - sa a 2 s © be a © -a OR '2.8 *s 5 HXNOIM H3d AVJ 22 •alv\ Aq paj-ejnSai sy •j3 ]r EUis •s9;bSjjj 9^ jo sdujs O •ssbio pc S.t3UOOl[0§ I? CS I sauijTi'oSiJQ; ^ •q[S8'9T |2 uapuno j *s •j3punoj6S oo •japjo i"Bp3ds Xg ' ' ' •j3pjo repads Xg i i i i i i I I I I I I I I lO I rH^ | | C* rt««(M00Q0 |OS| 1—1 H O II •japimojfsr- ico 'US saaztjn os to-* I •SSBIO p5 © SSBJO %S\ CO COO I •sxoaag •p rt w rt bJO-r-i .O fl fl^oo ©-dp 318 517.— A Table of Spars, &c, for Skips of the Line. Names of the THREE DECKS. TWO DECKS. Razees* 1st Class. 2d Class. different Spars. a o> Ft. In. 132. 70. 35. 23.6 9.f 8 s cd 5 Inch. 42.7 21.5 12. 4. H3 a 0) 1 Ft. In. 22. 12. J3 w> a S cS 5 Inch. 34. 19.3 ■a 41 5 3 i 4 em c 0) ►J e a) Q 1 JC 3 J3 «; a 3 0> I 5 -3 1 1 i B .J £ CS 5 i a £ 3 5 tm E ,3 2 i S .c 3 Ft. In. 105. 63. Ft. In. 18. 9.7 Ft. In. 95. 56. Inch. 30.8 17.4 Ft. In. 16. 9.6 Ft. la. 80. 47. Inch. 25.8 14.8 Ft. In 14. 7. Ft. In. 75. 45. Inch 24.2 14.5 Ft. In. 12. 6.9 Ft. In. 72. 45. Inch. 24.2 14.5 Ft. In. 12. 6.9 32. 21.8 8.8 11. 4. 29. 19.4 7.9 10. 3.5 - 24. 16. 6.5 8. 3.5 ■~ 22. 14.8 6. 7.5 3. - 22. 14.8 6. 7.5 3. - 95. 56. 30.8 19.3 16. 9.6 86. 51. 27.9 17.4 14.6 8.4 72. 43. 23.3 14.6 12. 6.9 67.6 42. 21.8 14.5 11. 6.4 64.6 42. 21.8 14.5 11. 6.4 29. 19.4 7.9 11. 4. — 25.8 17.1 6.10 10. 3.5 - 23. 15.4 6. 8.3 3.5 — 21. 14. 5.7 7. 3. - 21. 14. 5.7 7. 3. — 87. 46.4 24.8 13.3 12.4 6.8 79. 41. 21. 11.8 11. 6. 66. 37. 18. 11. 10. 6. 63.9 32. 16. 9.9 10. 5. 60.9 32. 16. 9.9 10. 5. 24.6 16.4 6.6 8. 3.6 Yard Arm. 21. 14. 5.7 7. 3.3 Yard Arm. 20. 13.4 5.2 6.5 3.3 Yard Arm. 16. 10.8 4.3 5.3 2.8 Yard Arm. 16. 10.8 4.3 5.3 2.8 Yard Arm. 95. 71.6 22.6 17.8 4.9 6. 86.6 65. 20. 15.5 4.4 5.5 75. 56. 17.5 13.4 3.9 5. 67.6 52.2 15.9 12.6 4. 5. 67.6 52.2 15.9 12.6 4. 5. 44. 30. 10.2 6. 2. 1.6 40. 27. 9. 5.4 2. 1.3 37. 25. 8.4 5. 2. 1. 34. 22.9 7.6 4.5 2. .9 34. 22.9 7.6 4.5 2. .9 84. 62. 20.2 15.5 4.6 5.3 76. 57. 17.9 13.6 4. 5. 65. 49. 15.2 11.5 3.3 4.8 60.9 46. 14.1 11.1 3.8 5. 60.9 46. 14.1 11.1 3.8 5. 41. 27. 9.3 5.4 2. 1.3 38. 25. 8.5 5. 2. 1. 32. 22. 7.3 4.4 1.9 .9 30.6 20.6 6.8 4.1 1.9 .8 30.6 20.6 6.8 4.1 1.9 .8 66. 46. 13.2 9.5 7. 4. 64. 41. 12.8 8.5 7. 4. 53. 36.6 10.6 7.6 4.9 3.6 51.10 34.8 10.4 7.3 4. 3.3 51.10 34.8 10.4 7.3 4. 3.3 30. 19. 6. 3.8 1.6 .9 26. 16. 5.2 3.2 1.4 .8 22.6 15. 4.5 3. 1.4 .6 22. 14. 4.4 2.8 1.3 .6 22. 14. 4.4 2.8 1.3 .6 66. 50. 54. 8.8 14.8 10.8 - 60. 45. 45. 7.9 13.5 9. _ 50. 30. 40. 6.5 11.2 8. _ 48. 34.6 38.9 6. 10. 7.8 - 46. 34.6 38.9 6. 10. 7.8 _ 320 A Table of Spars, &c, for all Ships of the Line. Names of the THREE DECKS. TWO DECKS. Razees. 1st Class. 2d Class. different Spars. J3 to B W ►J Ft. In. 1 1 CO Q Inch. <*- o n Ft. In. em s _1 Ft. In. 2 "3 | Q Inch. "3 gfln f a 4J *3 4 a V .J 2 9) s 5 fig tifM Ft. In. Ft. In. Inch. Ft. In. Ft. In. Inch. Ft. In. Main Gaff - - - 33. 8.2 - 33. 8.2 30. 7.4 30. M'n Top-mast Stud- ing-sail Boom Yard for Main Top- 55. 11.5 - 53.9 11. _ 52.6 11. _ 52.6 11. „ mast Studding- sail ----- 24. 4.8 - 24. 4.8 _ 23.6 4.7 _ 23.6 4.7 _ Main Top-gallant Studd'g-sail Boom 41. 8.6 - 39. 8.2 _ 38. 6.8 _ 38. 6.8 _ Yard for Main Top- gallant Studding- sail - - - - - 24. 4.8 " 24. 4.8 - 23.6 4.7 — 23.6 4.7 - Pore Gaff- - - - 37. 9.2 37. 9.2 36. 8.8 36. 8.8 Lower Swinging Boom - - - - 65. 13. - 60. 12. _ 58. 11.6 _ 58. 11.6 _ Yard for Lower Stud- ding-sail - - - 32.6 6.5 _ 30. 6. _ 29. 5.8 _ 29. 5.8 Pore Top-mast Stud- ding-sail Boom - 50. 10.5 _ 48. 10. _ 45. 9.4 _ 45. 9.4 _ Yard for Fore Top- mast Studding- " sail - - - - _ 31. 6.2 _ 29.9 6. _ 28. 5.6 _ 28. 5.6 — Pore Top-gall't Stud- ding-sail Boom - 37.6 7.8 _ 35. 7.4 _ 33.6 7. _ 33.6 7. _ Yard for Fore Top- gallant Studding- sail - - - - - 22. 4.4 — 21. 4.2 ~ 20.6 4. - 20.6 4. " Spanker Boom - - 60. 12.5 60. 12.5 57. 11.8 57. 11.8 Ring-tail Boom - - 30. 6. _ 30. 6. _ 28.6 5.7 _ 28.6 5.7 _ Mizen Gaff - - - 38. 9.4 5. 38. 9.4 5. 35. 8.6 5. 35. 8.6 5. Square-sail Boom - — — Yard for Square- sail - i - _ i _ Jack Gaff- - - - 17. 6. _ 16. 1 5.5 - 16. 5.5 - 16. 5.5 _ Dolphin Striker - - 22. 9. 3. 20. 8.5 3.1 20. 8.5 3. 20. 8.5 3. Classes of Vessels, U. S. N. — Continued. 321 Frigates. Sloops. 1st Class. 2d Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. 4 S £ £ B 5 ►4 5 B ►J s | S O 5 M a o ■J 6 a 5 o 2 e a a "3 rO 5c, c 3 £ s 5 "3 JS . Ft In. 28.6 Inch. 7.1 Ft. In. Ft. In. 27. Inch. 6.8 Ft. In. Ft. In. 19.5 Inch. 5. Ft. In. Ft. In. 17. Inch. 4.4 Fu In. Ft. In. 17. Inch. 4.4 Ft. In. 47.6 9.9 - 43.3 9. - 37.6 7.8 - 33.9 7. - 33.9 7. - 20. 4. - 18. 3.6 - 16.6 3.3 - 15. 3. - 15. 3. - 35.9 7.4 - 32.6 6.8 - 28. 5.8 - 26. 5.4 - 26. 5.4 - 20. 4. - 18. 3.6 - 16.6 3.3 " 15. 3. - 15. 3. - 33.6 8.3 _ 33. 8.2 _ 26. 6.4 _ 25. 6.2 _ 25. G.2 _ 51.3 10.2 - 46.3 9.2 - 42. 8.4 - 40.9 8.2 - 40.9 8.2 - 25.6 5. - 23. 4.6 - 21. 4.2 - 20.4 4. - 20.4 4. - 42. 8.8 - 38. 8. - 32.6 6.8 - 30.3 6.4 - 30.3 6.4 - 25.9 5.2 - 23.6 4.7 - 19.10 4. - 18. 3.6 - 18. 3.6 - 31. 6.5 - 28.6 6. - 24.6 5.2 - 23. 4.9 " 23. 4.9 - 18.6 3.7 - 17. 3.4 - 14. 3.3 " 13.6 2.7 - 13.6 2.7 " 50. 25. 32. 10.5 5. 7.8 4.6 45. 22.6 30. 9.5 4.5 7.4 4.6 35. 17.6 28. 7.7 3.5 6.8 4. 34. 17. 26. 7.4 3.4 6.4 4. 34. 17. 26. 7.4 3.4 6.4 4. 14. 18. 4.2 7.5 2. 18. 4.2 7.5 2. 13. 15. 3.7 7. 2. 11. 14. 3.2 6.3 1.8 11. 14. 3.2 6.3 1.8 21 322 A Table of Spars, &c. — Concluded. Names ot the Brigs • 1 Brigantines. Schooners. Remarks. different Spars. *9 t3 . a £ ctf £ £ 5 s S s a a I 1 c i td •J 5 s .J (3 a >J 5 s Ft. In. Inch. Ft. In. Ft. In. Inch. Ft. In. Ft. In. Inch. Ft. In. Main Mast - - - 72.2 22.6 12.2 76. 20. 8. 78.8 20.3 8. Main Top-mast - - 40.6 12 6 6.9 21. 6.3 - 26.2 7.5 Main Top-gallant Mast - - - - 20.3 7.2 - 14. 5.2 - 13.1 5. Main Royal Mast - 13.4 _ - 6.6 Main Flag Pole 5.4 .2.5 - 5.4 _ _ 6. 2.5 _ ( Diameter at the Fore Mast - - - 64.8 22. 11.3 55. 18.7 9.2 75.8 21.3 8. ( Truck. Fore Top-mast - - 40.6 12.6 6.9 32.6 10.4 5.6 26.2 7.5 Fore Top-gall't Mast 20.3 7.2 - 18.3 6.8 - 13.1 5. Fore Royal Mast - 13.6 _ _ 12. Fore Flag Pole - - 5.4 2.5 - 5. _ - 6. 2.5 _ ( Diameter at the I Truck. Mizen Flag Pole - Yard. Arm. Yard Arm. Yard Arm. \ Diameter at the { Truck Main Yard - - - 59.6 14. 3. 35.6 8. 2.9 Main Top-sail Yard 44.7 10.6 3.8 24.6 5.5 1.4 Main Top-gal't Yard 28.4 6.5 1.4 16.3 3.2 .9 Main Royal Yard - 18.11 3.6 .9 Fore Yard - - - 59.6 14. 3. 45. 10.1 2.9 50. 11.3 2.6 Fore Top-sail Yard 44.7 10.7 3.8 33.6 7.7 3. 33.4 7.4 2.6 Fore Top-gall't Yard 28.4 6.5 14 22. 4.5 1.6 22.2 4.5 1. Fore Royal Yard - 18.11 4. .9 14.9 3. .9 Sprit-sail Yard - - Bow-sprit - - - - 42. - - 17.6 Out b'rd. 29.1 18. Jib-boom - - - - 32.5 9.5 _ 14. Out b'rd. 37. 11. Flying Jib-boom - 34.5 6.8 _ 12. Out b'rd. Pole 5.4 - L'gth Pole. 3.4 L'gth Pole. L'gth Pole. fPolestotheM'n Gaffs of Brigs, Main Gaff - - - 39.8 9.8 5. 25. 8.5 5. 25. 8.5 5. 1 Brigantines and | Sch'ners are not M'n Top-mast Stud- included in the ding-sail Boom 29, 6. (.lengths given. Yard for Main Top- mast Studding-sail 12.10 2.6 Main Top-gallant Studd'g-sail Boom 22.3 4.6 Yard for Main Top- gal't Studding-sail 12.10 2.6 ) Fore Gaff- - - - 25. 6.2 _ 24. 8. _ 25. 8. Lower Swinging 1 Boom - - - - 31.6 6.4 _ 22. 1 4.6 _. 22. 4.6 Yard for Lower Stud- ding-sail - - - 15.3 3. _ 11. I 2.6 11. 2.6 Fore Top-mast Stud- ding-sail Boom - 29.9 6.2 22.6 4.8 25. 5.3 Yard for Fore Top- mast Studding-sail 18.7 3.8 13.9 3. _ 14.2 3. Fore Top-gall't Stud- ding-sail Boom - 22.3 4.7 16.9 3.6 16.8 3.6 Yard for Fore Top- gal l'nt Studd'g-sail 12.10 2.6 9.6 2. - 10.1 2.2 Spanker Boom - - 59.6 13. _ 50. 11. _ 50. 11. Square-sail Boom - 45. 9.7 Yard for Square-sail - - - - - _ 22.8 5. r Length tor Brigs I and Schooners j £ov'd by Steeve I of Bowiprit Jack Gaff- - - - Dolphin SV^er- - 9. 3. ~ t 3. - 9. - 3. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 323 A Cordage Table of Feet and Fathoms. Feet. Fath. Feet. Fath. Feet. Fath. Feet Fath. Feet. Fath. Feet. 655 Fath. Feet. Fath. 30 5 155 25 5 280 46 4 405 67 3 530 88 2 109 1 780 130 35 5 5 160 26 4 285 47 3 410 68 2 535 89 1 660 110 785 130 5 40 6 4 165 27 3 290 48 2 415 69 1 540 90 665 110 5 790 131 4 45 7 3 170 28 2 295 49 1 420 70 545 90 5 670 111 4 795 132 3 50 8 2 175 29 1 300 50 425 70 5 550 91 4 675 112 3|800 133 2 55 9 1 180 30 305 50 5 430 71 4 555 92 3 680 113 2 805 134 I 60 10 185 30 5 310 51 4 435 72 3 560 93 2 685 114 1 810 135 65 10 5 190 31 4 315 52 3 440 73 2 565 94 1 690 115 815 135 5 70 Jl 4 195 32 3 320 53 2 445 74 1 570 95 695 115 5 820 136 4 75 12 3 200 33 2 325 54 1 450 75 575 95 5 700 116 4 825 137 3 80 13 2 205 34 1 330 55 455 75 5 580 96 4 705 117 3 830 138 2 85 14 1 210 35 335 55 5 460 76 4 585 97 3 310 118 2 835 139 1 90 15 215 35 5 340 56 4 465 77 3 590 98 2 715 119 1 840 140 95 15 5 220 36 4 345 57 3 470 78 2 595 99 1 720 120 845 140 5 100 16 4 225 37 3 350 58 2 475 79 1 600 100 725 120 5 850 141 4 105 17 3 230 38 2 355 59 1 480 80 605 100 5 730 121 4855 142 3 110 18 2 235 39 1 360 60 485 80 5 610 101 4 735 122 3 ! 860 143 2 115 19 1 240 40 365 60 5 490 81 4 615 102 3 740 123 2865 144 1 120 20 245 40 5 370 61 4 495 82 3 620 103 2 745 124 1870 145 125 20 5 250 41 4 375 62 3 500 83 o 625 104 1 750 125 0875 145 5 130 21 4 255 42 3 380 63 2 505 84 1 630 105 755 125 5880 146 4 135 22 3 260 43 2 385 64 1 510 85 635 105 5 760 126 4 885 147 3 140 23 2 265 44 1 390 65 515 85 5 640 106 4 765 127 3 890 148 2 145 24 1 270 45 395 65 5 520 86 4 645 107 3 770128 2 895 149 1 150 25 275 45 5 400 66 4 525 87 3 650 108 2 775 ( 129 1 900 150 Weight of Cables of 120 fathoms from 3 to 25 inches. Three inch cable weighs 252 pounds ; 3£ inch, 336 pounds ; 4, 448 ; 4J, 560 ; 5, 700 ; 5£, 840 ; 6, 1008 ; 6£, 1176 ; 7, 1340 ; 7*, 1568 ; 8, 1792 ; 8j, 2016 ; 9, 2268 ; 9£,2520; 10,2800; 10*, 3080; 11, 3388; 11*, 3696; 12, 4032; 12£, 4368; 13,4732; VSi, 5056; 14,5480; Uh, 5880; 15, 6328; 15£, 6720; 16, 7168; 16§, 7616; 17, 8092; 17i 8568; 18, 9072; 18£, 9520; 19, 10108; 19£, 10640; 20, 11200; 20*, 11760; 21, 12348; 21J, 12936; 22, 13452; 22*, 14168; 23, 14840; 23£, 15456; 24, 16128; 25, 17500. 324 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR : i OR A 3D ^ •S OR -a be S3 "S 9 e8 X g O P*' 125 P < h w « o •saipui o| paaad^x , 1 1 I — 1 o* 09 •saqouj 'ssampiqx H» «!•* H" «(•* "if — « — i CM *^ M •saipuj 1 INONCO I •saqoujl 0}p9J9dTJX| i . -.s Hh 89110UI ssginpiqx •sgqoui 'mpBaig •S9ipUI oipai9dBX| c*» +. «h H« ^h ^ O? ^CO I CO lO O* CO I I I I -< I CO •saipuj 'SS9U3JOIHX H 00 H* H« kI 00 He* ~H C* O* ^ •saqoiq 'mpeajg ft o H W N 5 sgqoui o; p9J9dBX 1 1 1 1 ^* 1 CO •sgqoui 'ssgujjoiqx H=° H* «h»* H« 5+° — < -H ^« (N ^ •ggqoui *qipB9ia 1 I 00 t- O* ^J* 1 g s q &; fc o pa o ■sgqoui OJ p9J9dBX H« 1 1 1 1 ©* 1 co S9ipUI 'ssginpjqx H* H» «t* »£h« •saqoui 'mpBajg H« I | ~H 00 CO T* | s * fc o < H W 0! 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(J O > J CO .S2 2^ 5 t3 ° P nd U CO P Ph p CO fl p '3'M 2 « " - 8 £ § * .2 » o * J 8 t S3 >^ »3 J§ « rS co o CO re 2 g >, co 5 o^^?S M - « § s >*3 J3 co co O co o -P P -£3 ~* " i .2 cd rt o *i CO O Pi ^ « .2 o| O 2 co o d S 2 25 o p- 2 •? 3 CO CO o iJ I e^ •S co -h ^s M rt ** P p 2 8 5 p <" T3 U t„ -P P CO CO cl « 328 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 4> I as «e w • OR sz3 © _ *Z3 QC » sa • •fl& «w Of) © « ^ OS 4» S3 ta- «s*» s © O* rr> © *« ac § »\ W .3 -t-s S3 © ^S © 33 o © S3 bcj © on © O O o o o o o o o © o 8 O O O o OLOO CO oo »o 00 ■*# i '1 00^ 00 cxTco* 1.2- CO "* CO o o © o o ^j 1 1 1—4 1— • y— 1 r— I (0 111 £ s-^^v^^ V^-V^ 1 O* (N 1 — CO ~, r-i r-, CN in w 5 O W 1 1 5,500 I 5,500 O o co^ flof800 1 of 700 1 of 600 1 of 400 o o o o motoio o o O lO i— H o o » V V^-VX" 4) 1 O* - *0> of i-T o o o o oooooooo ^ooooNimooo o* o* — • 2 10,000 I 10,000 o o o o o o o o © o o o Cm «m Cm Cm «»_i O O O O O O O © O CO Ot o o *o o lO o o o lO 00 o o ^ V N^-V""^ l o* oi ^ t-h W5 o? 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Razees. Frigates* 2 DECKS. 3 DEC 1st Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. Names of Rigging. 1 5 02 g c ►J fc 6 a "So g c ■J 2 . 0Q 5 60 B 6 8 i 3 6 _5 i i BOWSPRIT GEAR. 1 Gammoning (Iron for all classes of vessels j Shrouds (pairs) - - 2 9 38 | J 2 9 34 ! 5 I 9 32 2 8| 32 2 8 30 Collars lor Shrouds - 2 9 8 5 2 9 7 1 $ 2 9 7 2 8* 7 2 8 w i Lanyards for Shrouds (four-stranded) - - Bobstays (pairs) - - 4 4 32 1 4 32 . 1 4 32 4 4 32 4 3! 34 21(H 36 210h 32 1 ! 210 31 2 10 31 2 10 26 Collars for Bobstays 210i 7 2 m 6| 210 Gh 2 10 6§ 2 10 6i Lanyards for Bobstays (four-stranded) - - 2 5i 17 2 5i 17 2 5 17 2 5 17 2 5 18 Cap Bobstay - - - 1 7 20 1 7 17 1 7 17 1 7 17 1 6* 15 Collar for Cap Bobstay 1 7 31 1 7 3* 1 7 3 1 7 3 1 64 2£ Lanyard for Cap Bob- stay (four-stranded) 1 31 8^ 1 3i $h 1 3i 81 1 3* 81 1 3i 8* Manropes - - - - 2 4£ 18 2 4i 18 2 4| 18 2 4| 17 2 44 16 Bumkin Braces (Iron for all vessels - - SPRIT-SAIL YARD GEAR. Parrel - - - - - 1 5 10 1 5 10 1 5 9 1 5 7 1 4 7 Tye 1 4| 2 1 4| 2 1 4i 2 1 -4| 2 1 4 2 Foot Ropes - - - - 2 3£ 16 2 3| 16 2 3i 16 2 3§ 15 2 3i 12 Lifts 2 4£ 31 2 4£ 30 2 4£ 30 2 44 28 2 4| 26 Braces 2 3i 108 2 3i 106 2 3i 103 2 3i 103 2 3 86 JIB-BOOM GEAR. Jib Stay 1 8 45 1 8 44 1 8 43 1 8 42 1 7| 39 Jib Guys (pairs) - - 2 6 75 2 6 72 2 6 72 2 6 68 2 5A 68 Jib Falls - - - - 4 3 40 4 3 40 4 3 40 4 3 40 4 2! 40 Foot Ropes - - - - 2 4 18 2 4 18 2 4 18 2 4 17 2 31 16 Martingale Stay - - 1 8 10 1 8 9 1 8 8 1 8 8 1 71 7i Martingale Backropes (pair) 1 5§ 20 1 54 17 1 bh 17 1 H 17 1 5 16 Martingale Falls - - 2 3 16 2 3 16 2 3 16 2 3 16 2 2! 16 Halliards - - - - 1 3f 70 1 3f 70 1 3£ 64 1 3i 67 1 34 62 Downhaul - - - - 1 3 42 1 3 40 1 22 35 1 2* 36 1 2| 35 Sheets ----- 2 4£ 80 2 4i 70 2 4i 62 2 31 62 2 3* 68 Pendants - - - - 2 6 8 2 6* 8 2 6 7 2 51 7 2 5f 6£ Brails 2 2f 68 2 2f 60 2 2f 57 2 21 58 2 2| 56 FLYING JIB-BOOM 1 1 GEAR. 1 Flying- Jib Stay - - 1 5 52 1 5 50 1 5 47 1 4| 48 1 4| 43 Flying- Jib Guys - - 2 4 52 2 4 50 2 4 44 2 31 44 2 31 40 Fiying- Jib Falls - - 2 3 24 2 3 24 2 3 24 2 2f 24 2 2| 20 Foot Ropes - - - - 2 3 11 2 3 10 2 3 10 2 3 10 2 3 9 Martingale Stay - - 1 5 24 1 5 20 1 5 20 1 4A 20 1 4i 18 Halliards - - - - 1 3i 60 1 3i 58 1 3i 53 1 3 54 1 3 51 Downhaul - - - - 1 2| 46 1 2| 46 1 2f 39 1 2A 40 1 2| 36 Sheets 2 5| 52 2 3| 50 2 3| 46 2 34 48 2 34 40 Heel-rope - - - - 1 3 34 1 3 32 1 3 30 1 3 30 1 2! 30 NOTE.— The Lanyards for all Standing Rigging should be four-stranded rope. ing & Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N. 341 Frigates. Sloops. Brig. Schoon- Brigs. Steamers 2d Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. antines ers. ,- i £ £ £ •5 £ £ £ c" c o fc in to c o 6 _2 53 c 4> ►J J 6 s to B c 6 N c g jo B 1-3 i 8 s 0) i flj M m to S ■ ■J 2 7* 24 1 7 12 1 64 11 1 6 10 1 54 7 1 54 8 i 54 8 2 74 2 2 7* 6 1 7 3 1 64 24 1 6 24 1 5 2± 1 41 24 i 4| 2 2 74 6 4 3* 34 2 3 12 2 3 12 2 3 12 2 24 14 2 21 10 2 21 8 4 34 28 2 9 25 2 8 20 2 74 18 2 74 18 2 6 14 2 6 14 1 6 7 2 9 28 2 9 6 2 8 5 2 74 5 2 74 5 2 6 5 2 6 5 1 6 2 2 9 6 2 44 18 2 4 14 2 3f 12 2 3| 12 2 3 14 2 3 14 1 3 7 2 44 14 ] 6 14 1 5* 12 1 5i 11 1 5 11 1 6 15 1 6 2* 1 54 24 1 54 2 1 5 2 - - - - - - 1 6 2 1 3 8| 1 2| 7 1 21 6 1 24 6 1 3 7 2 4 15 2 31 12 2 34 12 2 3i 11 2 3 8 2 3 8 " — 2 4 14 1 4 6 1 3* 5 3 5 1 3 5 " " 1 4 6 1 3* 2 1 34 2 1 31 2 1 3i 2 _ 1 34 2 2 3 10 2 2f 8 2 2f 7 2 24 6 _ 2 3 10 2 4 22 2 31 18 2 31 16 2 3 15 _ 2 4 22 2 3 72 2 3 62 2 2! 58 2 24 54 _ - 2 3 72 1 7 34 1 6 28 1 6 28 1 51 26 1 5 27 1 5 24 1 5 23 1 51 37 2 51 64 2 5 48 2 4f 44 2 44 42 1 5 18 1 5 16 1 5 16 2 51 62 4 2f 40 4 21 36 4 24 32 4 21 30 2 24 18 _ _ _ _ 4 2| 40 2 34 14 2 31 12 2 31 10 2 3 9 2 2| 9 2 2f 8 2 24 9 2 34 14 1 71 7* 1 6J 64 1 6 6h 1 54 6 1 54 5 1 54 44 154 44 1 74 7 1 4| 15 1 41 14 1 4 13 1 34 12 1 34 9 1 34 9 134 8 1 44 15 2 24 16 2 21 14 2 21 12 2 2 12 — _ 2 24 16 1 3 55 I 2! 46 1 2! 44 1 24 42 1 24 45 1 24 42 12| 26 1 3 66 1 24 32 1 21 28 1 21 26 1 2 24 1 2 22 1 2 20 12 21 1 24 34 2 3i 60 2 31 56 2 3 50 2 3 44 2 21 43 2 21 42 221 40 2 31 60 2 54 6 2 51 5 2 5 5 2 5 5 2 44 5 2 44 5 2 44 6 2 54 6 2 21 52 2 2 46 2 2 44 2 2 42 2 2 40 2 2 36 _ — 2 21 54 1 41 38 1 4 34 1 31 32 1 34 30 1 31 30 1 31 27 1 34 27 1 41 38 2 3! 34 2 34 30 2 31 30 2 3i 28 2 3 32 2 3 20 22| 24 2 3f 34 2 2* 20 2 21 16 2 2 14 2 2 14 J 2 24 20 2 3 8 2 2| 7 2 2| 7 2 24 7 2 24 7 2 24 6 221 6 2 3 8 1 41 17 1 4 15 1 4 13 1 3t 12 1 34 11 1 34 104 13| 10 1 41 17 1 2| 45 1 24 39 1 21 37 1 21 37 1 2 37 1 2 34 12 33 1 2| 46 1 21 34 1 2 30 1 If 30 I 1! 26 1 11 26 1 U 22 Ml 26 1 21 34 2 3 38 2 2A 30 2 24 30 2 24 28 2 21 26 2 21 24 22 24 2 3 38 1 2i 26 i 1 21 20 1 21 20 1 2 19 1 If 18 1 14 15 1 14 14 1 2f 26 342 A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and 1 Ships of the Line. Frigates. 2 DECKS. Razees. 3 DEC 1st Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. Names of Rigging* i c i .2 5 5 c 8 B 6 i 5 S CD 6 0 2 2 76 I, 3 36 1 2! 34 1 2| 28 1 2f 28 1 28 1 21 28 pen. 1 w'lp 2 2! 10 40 1 3 38 1 3f 30 1 2 28 1 2 26 1 2 26 1 L| 25 1 If 25 1 2| 28 1 2i 34 1 2i 32 1 2 28 1 2 26 1 2 26 1 •2 25 1 2 25 1 24 30 1 2i 36 2 3* 66 2 3 54 2 3 50 2 3 46 2 3 36 2 2| 36 2 41 54 2 3* 78 2 9 9 2 8 9 2 7* 8 2 7* 8 2 G 7 1 G 4 1 6 4 2 9 9 9 9 c 86 $113 7 8 140 7 7* 129 6 7* 108 5 6 82 3 6 67 3 6 66 9 9 ( 90 $120 IS 4| 153 14 4 112 14 3f 112 12 3f 96 10 3 70 _ _ _ _ _ 18 4* 153 •2 12* 44 2 10* 40 2 10 36 2 9| 34 2 8 34 2 6| 30 2' 6| 30 2 12* 58 10 5| 25 Iron — _ Iron - — " ~ ~ I'n - — I'n — — I'n - 12 5* 30 1 10 9 1 8 8 1 7* 8 1 7* 8 1 6 7 - _ _ 1 10 9 1 4f 18 1 4 16 1 3* 15 1 3| 15 1 3 14 1 4! 18 2 3£ 90 2 3i 84 2 3i 80 2 3| 74 2 3 70 2 3 90 2 2f 90 2 3* 94 1 7 16 - _ _ 1 7 20 1 3f 40 I 1 3f 64 2 5 90 _ 2 5 100 2 3 14 2 2! 13 2 2| 11 2 2i 11 2 2^ 10 _ 2 3 13 2 U 15* 2 4i 14 2 4 13 2 3| 13 2 3| 11 2 3| 9 2 3| 9 2 4* 14 may be increased in size one-fourth in addition to the specified size in the foregoing Table. 350 A Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and Ships of the Line. Frigates. 2 DECKS. Razees. 3 DECKS. 1st Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. Names of Rigging. J 6 N «3 60 S 6 N (55 "Si 1 i o3 53 I i 6 N '(55 6£ 3 ►J c* N (55 60 B MAIN-MAST AND YARD GEAR. Con. Stirrups 8 3| 8 8 3| 8 6 3 6 6 3 6 6 3 6 Truss Pendants (hide) 2 7 23 2 7 22 2 64 21 2 64 21 2 ^ 18 Falls for Truss Pen- dants - - - - - 2 3i 53 2 3£ 52 2 3 50 2 3 52 2 3 54 Lifts 2 H 102 2 54 86 2 5i 80 2 5i 82 2 5 78 Braces ------ 2 4f 180 2 44 180 2 4* 180 2 44 180 2 44 168 Tacks (tapered) - - 2 64 90 2 64 82 2 64 70 2 64 72 2 6 70 Sheets (tapered) - - 2 64 94 2 61 86 2 6* 74 2 64 76 2 6 74 Clew Garnets - - - 2 4 90 2 4 84 2 3f 80 2 3| 84 2 34 74 Runner (for Main Bow-line) - - - 1 44 8 1 44 7 1 44 7 1 44 7 1 4 6 Whip for Runner - 1 3| 18 1 3 15 i 3 15 1 3 15 1 3 15 Reef Pendants - - 2 44 12 2 41 12 2 4i 12 2 41 12 2 44 10 Bunt-lines (pairs) - Bunt-line Whips 2 3i 68 2 3i 68 2 3 60 2 3 62 2 3 60 2 3 72 2 3 62 2 21 62 2 2f 62 2 2f 62 Leech-lines - - - 4 3 128 4 3 116 4 2| 112 4 2f 116 4 24 108 After Leech-lines 4 3 108 4 3 106 4 2! 98 4 2f 100 4 24 84 Slab-line - - - - 1 % * 23 1 24 23 1 2i 23 1 24 23 1 24 21 Clew Jiggers - - - 2 3 98 2 3 96 2 2! 88 2 2| 92 2 2| 80 Lift Jiggers - - - 2 34 36 2 3i 36 2 3 36 2 3 36 2 3 34 Boom Jiggers - - - 2 2| 52 2 2f 50 2 2| 42 2 24 44 2 24 40 Boom Jiggers (in and — out) ----- 2 3 74 2 3 66 2 3 62 2 3 64 2 2f 60 Bunt Whip - - - 1 24 28 1 2* 27 I 24 26 1 24 27 1 24 22 MAIN TOP-MAST & YARD GEAR. Shrouds and Pendants (pairs) - - - - Lanyards for Pen- 6 7 135 6 7 130 6 7 131 6 64 131 5 6 100 dants - - - - - 12 3§ 96 12 3| 84 12 3| 84 12 34 84 10 3 70 Stays 2 94 69 2 94 64 2 94 62 2 94 63 2 9 61 Breast Backstay s(prs) 2 8 92 2 8 88 2 71 86 2 74 88 2 7 80 Falls for Breast Back- stays ---.-- 4 3f 52 4 3f 52 4 34 52 4 34 52 4 34 52 Standing Backstays (pairs) - - - - Lanyards for Standing 2 10 96 2 10 96 2 10 92 2 10 94 2 94 86 Backstays - - - 4 5 40 4 5 40 4 5 40 4 5 40 4 4f 40 Cat-Harpen Legs - 2 4| 4 2 44 4 2 4| 4 2 44 4 2 44 4 Top-Burtons - - - 2 34 192 2 3* 180 2 34 174 2 34 178 2 34 162 Runners - - - - 2 4| 8 2 41 8 2 44 8 2 44 8 2 4 7 Top Tackle Pendants 2 9 58 '2 9 55 2 9 47 2 9 50 2 84 48 Top Tackle Falls - 2 5 170 2 5 160 2 5 145 2 4| 150 2 44 142 Jackstays (Iron) - - Foot Ropes - - - - 2 4 17 2 4 16 2 4 15 2 4 15 2 3| 14 Stirrups G 3 6 6 3 6 6 3 6 6 3 6 6 2f 6 Flemish Horses - - 2 3 7 2 3 6 2 3 6 2 3 6 2 3 6 Parrel 1 7 6 1 7 6 1 7 6 1 7 6 1 61 5 Top-sail Ties (all hide) 2 i 7 42 2 7 40 2 7 40 2 7 40 2 6! 36 Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S* Nt-Gm. 351 Frigates. Sloops. Brig- aiitines Schoon- 2d Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. Brigs. ers. Steamers. 5 .C ^ 5 a * £ £ e s be a o: J fcfl C 03 6 09 "So c o as c 03 i i 1 6 | 6 s c to a Js ■Jj J fc CO ►4 fe 02 h3 £ w .J fc Cfl ►-!_ £ oS _►-!_ £ X _J_ _£ o3 »J C 2| G 4 2f 4 4 2i 4 4 . 4 4 24 4 4 24 4 4 2 4 6 2| 6 - Put. - - Pat. - - Pat. - - P't - - P't " - P't - P't - Pat. _ Pat. 2 54 58 2 u 48 2 44 46 2 44 2 4! 38 2 4 36 2 3 34 2 54 62 2 4 150 -2 31 100 2 34 100 2 34 92 2 3 84 2 24 60 224 66 2 4 160 2 54 58 2 5 50 2 4f 44 2 4-4 44 2 4 42 - _ _ _ _ 2 54 80 2 54 62 2 5 54 2 4f 46 2 44 46 2 4 46 - _ _ _ _ _ 2 5± 84 2 3i 64 2 3 58 2 3 52 2 3 52 2 24 50 - - - - - - 2 34 78 1 4 6 1 3| 6 1 31 5 1 31 5 1 3 5 _ _ _ 1 4 7 1 3 14 1 24 14 1 2| 13 1 2i 13 1 2 10 - - _ _ _ _ 1 3 18 2 4 94 2 3| 9 2 34 9 o 3 4 9 2 3} 8 2 5 13 2 5 13 2; 4 9 2 ■21 52 o Ol 46 2 24 44 2 2 43 2 2 40 _ _ _ _ _ 2 1 21 48 g 2* 58 2 2-1 50 2 2 48 2 2 46 2 2 38 - _ _ _ _ _ 2 24 42 4 24 95 4 2 88 4 2 80 4 2 79 2 2 40 _ _ _ _ _ _ 4 24 105 4 2i 80 4 2 68 4 2 64 4 2 62 2 2 36 _ _ _ _ _ _ 4 24 88 1 2 20 1 2 17 1 2 16 1 2 15 1 2 18 _ _ _ _ _ _ 1 2 22 2 24 72 2 2i 61) 2 24 56 2 n 56 2 2 60 _ - _ _ _ _ 2 24 76 2 2f 30 2 n 24 2 24 23 w 2 J - 23 2 2 30 - - _ _ _ _ 2 21 26 2 si 32 2 2 26 2 2 27 v> 2 27 2 If 27 - - - - - - 2 24 32 2 24 56 2 34 50 2 2 44 2 2 43 2 U 46 _ _ _ " _ _ 2 24 58 I 2 18 1 2 16 1 2 15 1 2 15 1 1! 13 1 2 20 5 54 88 4 44 62 4 44 60 3 44 47 3 4 42 2 3 24 2 3 24 5 54 106 SO 2f 70 8 24 56 8 24 56 6 24 42 ._ _ _ _ _ _ 10 2f 70 2 8| 53 2 74 39 2 7 37 2 7 36 1 64 20 1 3 14 1 3 10 2 84 72 2 7 72 1 7 31 1 64 30 1 u 29 1 54 28 - - - ~ - - 2 7 80 4 3i 52 2 34 24 2 34 22 2 3 22 2 2| 16 - - •- - - 4 34 52 2 9 76 2 8 67 2 7| 64 2 71 63 1 64 29 1 34 28 . 3 30 2 9 84 4 4i 40 4 4 36 4 3f 36 4 3|j 36 _ 4 44 40 2 4 34 2 34 3 2 34 3 2 34 3 o 3 3 2 3 3 2 f 24 2 2 4 3 2 34 146 2 3 128 2 3 120 2 2| 112 2 2 : V 104 - _ _ __ _ 2 34 160 2 4 7 2 3| 6 2 3! 6 2 3f 6 2 34 6 - - - i - 2 4 7 2 8 41 2 64 38 2 64 34 I 6* 20 1 3 20 Lg 1 ms 4 rope 34 T 1 Lg ms 14 rope 2 8 46 2 4 122 1 | - 2 4 134 2 34 12 2 34 11 2 34 10 2 3 10 2 24 8 2 2f 7 22| 7 2 34 12 6 2| 6 4 24 4 4 2 4 4 2 4 4 2 4 2 2 2 22 2 6 24 6 2 3 5 2 2| 4 2 24 4 2 24 4 2 2 4 2 2 4 22 4 2 3 5 1 64 u 1 6 4 1 6 4 1 6 4 1 5 4 1 4 3 1 4 3 1 64 5 2 6i 32 2 6 25 2 5* 24 2 54 23 1 54 9 1 5 8 1 44 7 2 64 41 352 1 Table showing* the Length and Size of Standing and Ships of the Line. Frigatest 2 DECKS. Razees. 3 DECKS ■ ■■ 1st Class. 1st Class, i id Class. Names of Rigging. 1 1 £ & ^ 1 1 5 5 c 6 .2 toil 5 c v. S | 6 N i 6 ® 1 c 6 .2 OS c 0) a CO J £ 55 j 2 CO h3 J2 CO ij fc 'to i-3 MAIN TOP-MAST & YARD GEAR. Con. Halliards for Top-sail Tyes < 2 4 134 i i 4 130 5 I 4 120 2 4 124 2 31 122 Rolling Tackle - - L 3 20 L 3 20 L 3 20 1 3 20 1 3 18 Lifts 2 7 38 S 2 7 36 i 2 7 34 2 6ft 34 2 6 31 Braces - - - - - 2 4£ 120 S 2 4* 120 5 2 4ft 120 2 4i 122 2 4 100 Sheets 2 6| 88 5 2 6| 82 ' 2 6ft 79 2 6i 81 2 6 78 Clew-lines - - - - 2 31 106 < 2 3f 104 2 31 99 2 31 102 2 3ft 90 Bow-lines - - - - 2 3k 78 i 2 3| 76 2 3| 70 2 3ft 70 2 3i 64 Bunt-lines - - - - 2 3f 82 2 3| 74 2 31 72 2 31 74 2 3ft 68 Reef Pend'ts (all hide) 2 4i 16 2 4| 15 2 41 15 2 41 15 2 4* 13 Whips for Reef Pen- dants 2 3| 88 2 3ft 80 2 3ft 78 2 3| 80 2 3| 76 Clew Jiggers - - - 2 2ft 108 2 2ft 104 2 2ft 100 2 8ft 104 2 2| 96 Lift Jiggers - - - 2 3 24 2 3 24 2 3 24 2 3 24 2 21 24 Bunt-runner - - - 1 4 11 I 4 10 1 4 10 1 4 10 1 4 9 Jigger for Bunt-runner 1 3 38 1 3 35 1 3 35 1 3 35 1 21 28 Boom Tricing-lines - 2 2ft 32 2 2ft 28 2 2| 28 2 2| 28 2 2 24 Studding-s'l Halliards 2 4 114 2 4 108 2 4 104 2 4 108 2 31 98 Studding-sail Tacks 2 3ft 112 2 3| 104 2 3| 98 2 3* 102 2 3i 94 Studding-sail Sheets 2 3i 60 2 3i 50 2 3i 50 2 3i 50 2 3| 48 Studding-sail Down- hauls - - - - - 2 3 74 2 3 68 2 2f 67 2 2f 68 2 2ft 64 MAIN TOP-GAL'NT M' ST & YARD GEAR 2 5 73 2 5 68 2 5 67 2 5 67 2 u 60 Stay 1 5 29 1 5 27 1 5 26 1 5 26 1 u 24 Breast Backstays (pr.) 1,5 58 1 5 57 1 5 55 1 4ft 56 1 4i 50 Palls for Breast Back-, stays - - - - - 2\ 2|| 24 1 2 2| 20 2 21 20 2 2ft 20 2 2\ 20 Standing Backstays ! I ' i (pair) - - - - ! Long Yard, or Mast 1 6 | 61 1 6 60 1 6 57 1 6 59 1 5| 5 1 Rope - - - - - 1 6ft 64 1 6ft 61 1 6 58 1 I 5 * 60 1 5| 53 Short Mast Rope - - 1 6 14 1 5f 14 1 5ft 13 1 5ft 13 1 5i 12 Jackstays (Iron) - - | Foot Ropes - - - - 2 3i 10 2 3| 10 2 3 10 2 3 10 2 21 9 Stirrups 2 2ft 2 2 S8ft 2 2 2| 2 2 2| 2 2 2 2 Parrel ----- 1 4 3 1 4 3 1 4 3 1 4 3 1 31 3 Lifts 2 4 58 2 31 56 2 3ft 56 2 3* 56 2 3i 50 Braces - - - - - 2 3| 118 2 2| 116 2 2ft 104 2 2ft 106 2 2\ 100 Halliards - - - - 1 3* 61 1 3ft 60 1 3 59 1 3 60 1 21 56 Sheets 2 4ft 70 2 4ft 68 2 4| m •2 41 68 2 4 64 Clew-lines - - - - 2 2\ 98 2 2ft 90 2 2* 88 2 2| 90 2 2 84 Bow-lines - - - - 2 21 88 2 2J 85 2 2 82 2 2 83 2 2 78 Bunt-lines - - - - 2 2\ 50 2 21 50 2 2ft 46 2 2ft 46 2 2k 42 Lift Jiggers - - - 2 2\ 24 2 21 24 2 2± 24 2 2\ 24 2 2 20 Bunt Jigger - ' - - 1 2\ 24 1 21 22 1 2\ 22 1 2ft 22 1 2k 21 Tripping-line - - - , Studding-sail Hal- 1 2f 31 1 21 30 1 2J 27 1 2k 28 1 2| 26 liards \ 2 3* 104 2 3^ 98 2 3ft 97 \ § 3i 98 2 3 92 Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Gm. 353 Frigates. Sloops. 1 Brig- Schoon- ! Bliss. Steamers* 2d Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. antiiies ers. J o in to B s ►J a d .2 CO "Si B V c _5 N TO 5 B £ 6 s "Si s A 6 s 5 "Si B a i s i B c s X B _►£_ j 6 N TO i c -A 2 34 100 2 3* 90 2 3i 80 2 3 16 1 3 34 1 24 43 1 24 34 2 34 100 12 1 Ro l'g rope Ro l'e rope 1 2! 16 1 24 14 1 24 13 1 24 2 12 1 2 5 1 2 5 1 2| 15 2 5* 30 2 5 28 2 5 27 2 5 26 2 44 22 2 3f 18 2 3i 18 2 54 35 2 34 100 2 34 92 2 34 90 2 3 88 2 24 64 2 2k 64 2 24 64 2 34 90 2 5f 70 2 54 58 2 5 54 2 5 50 j 2 4 52 2 34 46 2 34 46 2 5! 71 2 34 80 2 3 70 2 3 66 2 3 64 1 2 24 60 2 2 52 2 2 52 2 34 86 2 3i 58 2 3 50 2 3 44 2 2| 43 2 24 42 2 2 42 2 2 42 : 2 34 74 2 34 60 2 3 54 2 3 48 2 3 47! 2 2f 44 1 2 22 1 2 22 2 34 66 2 44 12 2 4 10 -4- 4 10 o 3f 9 2 | 34 7 - - - - - - 2 44 12 2 3 68 2 24 60 2 24 56 2 2 j. 55 2 21 48 _ _ _ _ _ _ 2 3 76 2 24 82 2 2 76 2 2 64 2 2 60 2 if 66 2 U 46 - _ _ 2 24 94 2 2f 24 o 24 22 2 24 21 2 Oi 20 2 24 16 2 2| 16 2 2 16 2 2f 24 1 34 9 1 3 7 1 3 7 1 3*" 7 1 3 6 - - _ _ _ _ 1 34 10 i 24 26 1 2 20 1 2 19 1 2 18 1 2 12 - _ _ - _ _ 1 24 22 2 2 22 2 14 20 2 14 20 2 14 20 2 14 20 - _ _ - _ _ 2 2 30 2 34 88 2 3| 74 2 3 70 2 3 68'! 2 2f 64 - - _ - _ _ 2 34 98 2 3 84 2 3 72 2 2f 64 2 2f 62 2 2 1 60 - _ _ - _ _ 2 3 98 2 3i 46 2 3 44 2 3 40 2 3 39 | 2 2l 32 - - - - - 1 2 3i 44 2 2i 60 2 2i 50 2 2 48 2 2 46 2 2 38 - - " - - 2 1 24 58 2 4 56 2 34 48 2 34 46 2 3 45 2 24 38 1 ^4 15 1 24 15 2 31 68 1 44 22 1 31 19 1 34 18 1 34 17 1 3 14 1 24 16 1 24 12 1 44 31 1 4 46 1 34 40 I 34 3S 1 3 36 1 3 32 - - - - 1 4 53 2 24 20 2 2 16 2 2 15 2 2 15 2 14 14 - - - - - 2 24 20 1 5 48 1 41 42 1 4 39 1 4 38 1 1 34 34! 1 24 34 1 24 34 1 5 54 1 5i 48 1 44 43 1 44 40 1 44 1 39 1 34 36 1 2| 36 _ _ 1 54 55 1 41 11 1 44 9 1 4 9 1 4 9 1 34 1 - - - - - - | 1 4f 12 2 24 9 2 24 8 2 24 7 2 24 7 2 2 6 2 2 5 _ _ _ 2 24 8 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 — j _ _ 2 2 2 1 31 3 1 3 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 1 24 2 1 24 2 _ _ _ 1 34 3 2 3 46 2 21 40 2 24 38 2 24 36 2 24 31 2 2 24 _ _ _ 2 3 45 2 24 88 2 2 76 2 2 66 2 2 65 2 2 50 2 2 48 _ _ _ 2 24 94 1 24 48 1 24 40 1 24 38 1 2 36 1 2 26 - - _ _ _ _ 1 24 54 2 31 56 2 34 50 2 34 46 •2 34 44| 2 24 41 2 24 44 - _ _ 2 3f 60 2 2 78 2 If 66 2 H 58 2 14 55 2 n 44 2 14 46 _ _ 2 2 80 2 2 68 2 2 64 2 If 56 o 1! 53 2 14 48 - - - I _ _ 2 2 86 2 2£ 38 1 24 18 1 24 16 1 24 16 1 2 30 - - - _ _ 2 24 46 2 2 20 2 U 16 2 14 16 2 14 15 2 14 12 - _ _ 1 2 2 20 1 2 19 i U 17 1 n 15 1 H 15 1 14 13 - _ _ _ _ 1 2 23 1 24 24 1 2 22 1 if 20 1 If 19 1 14 19 1 1 18 ~" " - 1 24 26 2 2f 80 2 2! 70 2 24 64 2 24 60 2 24 58 - - - - _ - i 1 2 2| 92 23 354 1 Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and Snips of the Line* Frigates. 3 DECKS. - 2 DECKS. Razees. 1st Class. st Class. | 2d Class. Names of Riggmg. 1 02 § c 5 .2 ' 02 3 Si g c o N 93 J 3| 1 3 L 4 2 2 I 3i L 4 1 34 2 2| 1 11 2 3 2 2f 1 2| 2 3i 2 24 2 2i 1 Si 1 2 1 34 1 3| 2 3 1 2i 1 3| 1 2f 1 3 2 34 6 74 2 3^ 1 9 ■3 j 28 64 40 10- 30 65 64 7 2 60 64 37 44 50 58 25 31 - 59 42 58 37 42 34 34 60 136 84 17 I .2 g Q3 2 3i 2 3 1 4 2 2 1 3i 1 4 1 3| 2 2| 1 H 2 24 2 2i 1 2| 2 3 2 2| 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 3i 1 3i 2 3 1 2i 1 3i 1 24 1 2| 2 34 6 74 12 3f 1 9 X "So a a) >J 30 64 40 10 30 67 66 7 2 60 64 38 44 50 64 27 32 63 46 60 38 43 34 34 60 136 84 18 6 jzj 2 2 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 2 2 1 2 2 '2 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 6 12 1 £ 02 3 24 31 2 3 31 3i 2| li 21 24 2* 3 2i 2 2 2 3* 3 Si 2i 3 2^ 24 34 7 34 9 S so 1 MAIN TOP-GAL'NT M. &VDGEAR. Con Studding-sail Sheets Studding-sail Tacks MAIN ROYAL M'ST & YARD GEAR. Shrouds (pair) - - Falls for Shrouds Stay Backstays (pair) - - Yardrope - - - - Jackstays (Iron) - - Foot Ropes - - - - Parrel - - - - - Lifts Braces - - - - - Halliards - - - - Sheets - - - - - Clew-lines - - - - Bow-lines - - - - Bunt-lines - - - - Tripping-line - - - Main-boom Topping- lifts Falls for Main-boom Topping-lifts - - MAIN TRY-SAIL M'ST & GAFF G'AR. Peak Halliards - - Throat Halliards - Vangs Peak Brails (pairs) - Throat Brails (pairs) Middle Brails (pairs) Foot Brails (pairs) - Sheets Outhauler - - - - Boom Tackle for Out- hauler - - - - Reef Pendants for Out- hauler - - - - Reef Tackle for Out- hauler - - - - MIZEN-MAST&CR. JACK YARD GEAR. Shrouds and Pendants (pairs) - - - - Lanyards for Shrouds and Pendants - - Stay 2 2 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 2 2 1 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 ] 2 6 1 3| 3 4 2 3i 4 3| 2| li 3 2f 24 3i 24 % % 2 34 34 3 2i 3| 2f 3 4 8 4 9^ 33 70 42 10 34 69 71 8 2 62 72 43 48 53 72 28 34 63 48 68 42 46 38 36 62 144 96 19 1 34 2 3 1 4 2 2 1 3i 1 4 1 3f 2 2| 1 1* 2 3 2 2f 1 24 2 3i 2 24 2 2i 1 2| 1 2 1 3^ 1 3| 2 3 1 24 1 3* 1 2f 1 3 2 4 6 8 L2 4 1 94 30 S 64 S 40 10 5 31 68 70 8 2 60 70 42 46 52 64 27 33 63 48 60 38 | 43 34 34 60 143 96 1 18 28 60 36 8 28 60 62 6 2 54 56 35 42 48 60 24 29 48 43 56 36 38 32 34 54 136 84 17 Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, II, S. N,-Con. 35: irrigates. Sloops. | Brig- Sclioon ! , _ Brigs. Steamers^ 2d Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. amiiies ers. J £ £ d £ £ £ £ J 6 K X B ■s 6 2 6 N 02 "5s 5 6 6 s U 3 ? s X ■I. SB C O ■J 6 X C a *1 i -- N V. B _h£_ : i 6 02 1i c 2 21 26 2 2* 22 2 2i 20 2 2i 20 2 2 18 2 2€ 2 21 50 2 2 42 2 2 40 2 2 38 2 If 33 ~ - - — — 2 2i 32 1 3i 32 1 3 30 1 3 27 1 21 26 1 2f 22 | 2 2 8 2 U 8' 2 If 8 2 H 8 2 V- 7 1 3 25 1 2f 23 1 O 3 ■"4 20 1 2| 19 1 2f 17 1 3£ 54 1 31 48 1 3 42 1 3 42 1 3 37 1 3 54 1 2f 46 1 2i 43 1 2| 21 39 2 2i 6 2 2J 5 2 2i 5 2 2 2 5 1 1* 2 1 H 2 1 H 2 1 U 2 1 U 1| a 2 k 50 2 2i 42 2 2i 38 •2 2 37 2 2 32 2 2j 52 2 2 42 2 2 39 2 2 37 2 2 38 1 2 32 i 2 2f 38 2 2^ 34 2 2| 32 2 2 30, ! 2 2 28 2 2 44 2 H 38 2 1* 36 2 If 34 2 H 30 2 11 52 2 H 44 2 li 42 2 it 42' 2 1 38 1 2 22 1 If 26 1 U 23 1 1* 22 1 u 21 1 2 2 H 4 2f 19 30 30 2 2 5 3 40 36 2 2 5 3 40 36 1 3 40 1 2| 34 1 2f 31 1 2f 30 1 3i 44 1 3| 54 1 3§ 54 1 3 41 1 2| 38 1 2| 33 1 2| 31 1 •j i 30 1 3. 28 1 3f 38 1 3{ 38 1 2| 44 2 2£ 52 2 2 48 2 U 46 2 li 44 2 2t 42 2 24 56 •: •j; 30 2 2i 58 1 2 34 1 2 32 1 If 30 1 If 28 2 H 64 1 2 42 1 2" 40 1 2 40 1 2| 36 1 2| 32 1 24 30 1 2^ 28 1 31 34 1 3 J 40 1 3i 38 1 2| 36 1 2* 30 1 2 28 1 H 26 1 If 24 1 If 31 1 2 34 1 2 34 1 2i 38 1 2i 28 1 2 26| 1 2 24 1 2 22 1 2| 30 1 -i 38 1 21 36 1 2| 32 2 3* 44 2 3 34 2 3 32 2 3 31 2 3" 60 -1 4 35 1 4 35 2 3£ 52 - 1 3f 22 1 4 25 1 4 25 - 2 8ft 50 2 2f 60 2 2f 60 - 2 5* 6 2 5£ 6 2 5* 6 - - - - - - — - - - 1 3 15 1 3 18 1 3 IS 5 6| 98 5 6 86 5 5i 78 5 5| 76 5 6| 103 10 3| 70 10 3 70 10 2f 70 10 2f 70 _ _ 10 3i 8C 1 i s 16 1 71 13 1 1 ?4 13 1 n 1 12 - - 1 8 n 356 i Table showing the Length and Size of Standing and Names of Rigging* Snips of the Line. 3 DECKS. MIZEN-MAST&CR JACK Y. GEAR. Con Futtock Shrouds - - Slings (Chain for all vessels) - - - - Pendant Tackle Falls Foot Ropes - - - - Stirrups Truss Pendants (all hide) Fall for Truss Pen- dants Lifts Braces MIZENTOP-M'ST& YARD GEAR. Shrouds and Pendants (pairs) - - - Lanyards for Shrouds and Pendants - Stay Breast Backstays (pr.) Falls for Breast Back- stays - - - - - Standing Backstays (pairs) - - - - Lanyards for Standing Backstays - - - Cat-Harpen Legs - Top-Burtons - - - Runners - - - - Top Tackle Pendants Jackstays (Iron) - - j Foot Ropes - - - - Stirrups ----- Flemish Horses - - Parrel - - - - - Top-sail Tye (all ! hide) J Halliards for Top-sail Tye Rolling Tackle - - Lifts Braces Sheets Clew-lines - - - - Bow-lines - - - - Bunt-lines - - - - Reef Pend'ts (all hide) Whips for Reef Pen- dants - - - - - Clew Jiggers - - - Lift Jiggers - - - H 3i 2 3i 3 24 110 16 4 74 56 15 38 20 2 DECKS. 1st Class. h 39 20 §i 150 7 26 11 4 5 4 15 56 15 31 96 52 82 58 64 12 68 88 20 H 3| 3i 3 3| 6i 3i 2! 2i A* 20 106 16 4 69 56 14 38 20 38 20 3| 150 7 26 2d Class. 10 4 5 4 14 55 15 30 96 50 78 52 58 12 64 82 20 51 7§ 20 69 56 13 35 20 36 20 3£ 132 7 6\ 23 10 4 5 4 13 50 15 29 84 46 76 50 55 12 64 78 20 Razees. 5i 20 69 56 13 36 20 38 20 3, 140 7 25 10 4 5 4 13 52 15 29 86 48 78 52 57 12 64 80 20 Frigates* 1st Class. Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Om. 357 Frigates. 2d Class. Sloops. 1st Class. 2d Class 3d Class. Brigs. Brig- a ntines Schoon- Steamers. 2t 3i 2* 4 2' 2i 2 2* 21 2i 2 3 2i 52 2 1 2 66 54 56 12 28 20 30 20 3 118 7 19 8 4 3 3 13 40 13 22 70 40 62 44 46 9 2*1 18 21 2* 3 b\ 2* 2 2 4 5i 2S 2 3i 2 31 2f 2 2 2j 2 2| 2 2 2 2 21 2 15 2 54 2 Pat. 4 15 n 52 2 2 2,2 2 If 48 2 52 2 14 p-t 4 " 2 4| 1G 2! 64 36 56 13 28 24 36 20 3 120 5 20 9 4 3 3i 16 2J 45 2| 15 358 1 Table showing* the Length and Size of Standing and Snips of tiie Liine. Frigates. 2 DECKS. Razees. 3 DECKS. 1st Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. Names of Rigging. 1 3 OB c S ►5 6 02 45 S CI 6 '65 S 6 j5 4> OB id "St s 3 6 N OB S3 ta B MIZENTOP-M'ST& YARD GEAR. Con. Bunt-runner - - - 1 31 10 1 3i 9 1 3i 9 1 3i 9 1 3 8 Jigger-fall for Bunt- runner - - - - 1 21 17 1 21 16 1 21 16 1 21 16 1 21 14 MIZ. TOP-GALL'NT M' ST & YARD GEAR Shrouds (pairs) - - 2 31 58 2 3* 55 2 31 53 2 3i 53 2 3 46 Stay 1 3| 17 1 31 15 1 31 15 1 31 15 1 31 14 Breast Backstays (pr.) 1 3| 47 1 31 46 1 3i 43 1 3i 44 1 31 40 Falls for Breast Back- stays ----- 2 2 20 2 2 20 2 2 20 2 2 20 2 2 20 Standing Backstays (pair) - - - - Long Yard, or Mast 1 41 49 1 41 48 1 41 45 1 41 46 1 4 43 Rope 1 4 53 1 4 52 1 4 47 1 4 48 1 3f 43 Short Mast Rope - - 1 3| 12 1 3f 11 1 3f 10 1 3f 10 1 31 9 Jackstays (Iron) - - Foot Ropes - - - - 2 2ft 7 2 2| 7 2 21 7 2 21 7 2 21 6 Stirrups - - - - - 2 n 2 2 2| 2 2 2i 2 2 2i 2 2 2 2 Parrel - - - - - 1 3 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 1 21 2 Lifts 2 3 48 2 3 44 2 3 44 2 3 44 2 2f 38 Braces - - - - - 2 Si 78 2 a* 76 2 21 72 2 21 74 2 21 68 Halliards - - - - 1 2! 48 1 2f 45 1 2f 42 1 2f 43 1 21 42 Sheets 2 3 56 2 3 54 2 3 49 2 3 50 2 2f 49 Clew-lines - - - - 2 2| 66 2 2| 60 2 21 56 2 21 58 2 2 50 Bow-lines - - - - 2 2 78 2 2 76 2 2 72 2 2 74 2 If 64 Bunt-lines - - - - 1 2 22 1 2 21 1 2 19 1 2 19 1 2 18 Lift Jiggers - - - 2 If 20 2 If 20 2 If 20 2 ■•■4 20 2 11 20 Bunt Jiggers - - - 1 U 20 1 If 19 1 If 18 1 If 18 1 11 16 Tripping-line - - - 1 U 25 1 If 24 1 If 21 1 If 22 1 H 22 MIZ. ROYAL MAST & YARD GEAR. Shrouds (pair) - - 1 3 35 1 3 34 1 3 32 1 3 32 1 21 27 Falls for Shrouds 2 1! 12 2 If 12 2 If 12 2 If 12 2 H 8 Stay ------ 1 2! 22 1 2| 21 1 2f 20 1 2f 20 1 21 19 Backstays (pair) - - 1 3 56 1 3 54 1 3 50 1 3 52 1 21 48 Yardrope - - - - 1 3 57 1 3 56 1 3 52 1 3 54 1 2f 50 Jackstays (Iron) - - Foot Ropes - - - - 2 2 5 2 2 5 2 2 5 2 2 5 2 2 5 Parrel - - - - - 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 2 Lifts 2 2f 53 2 2f 52 2 2f 46 2 2f 48 2 21 42 Braces ----- 2 If 60 2 If 50 2 If 46 2 If 46 2 11 46 Halliards - - - - 1 2 33 1 2 30 1 2 29 1 2 30 1 2 28 Sheets - - - - - 2 2* 38 2 2* 36 2 2i 36 2 21 36 2 2 30 Clew-lines - - - - 2 If 42 2 If 40 2 If 40 2 If 40 2 H 38 Bow-lines - - - - 2 H 56 2 i* 48 2 n 44 2 li 44 2 1 46 Bunt-lines - - - - 1 11 23 1 n 22 1 H 22 1 11 22 1 U 18 Tripping-line - - - 1 ii 29 1 n 29 1 li 26 1 1* 27 1 U 24 SPANKER BOOM AND GAFF GEAR. Topping-lifts - - - 2 : u 41 2 51 40 2 51 40 2 1 51 40 2 51 38 Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, U. Si a*- Con. 359 Frigates. Sloops. Brig- Schoon- Brigs. Steamers* 2d Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. amines ers. © B -l z. CC _►£_ fe CO ■J 1 3 7 1 3 6 1 3 6 1 3 6 1 3 7 1 2i 14 1 2| 12 1 2i 12 1 2 12 ! 1 2i 14 2 3 41 2 2! 39 2 2* 34 2 2* 33 2 3 46 1 3 13 1 21 11 1 2* 10 1 2* lO! - - - _ - - _ _ - 1 3 14 1 3 36 I 2| 32 1 2* 29 1 2i 27 "" 1 3 40 2 2 18 2 1* 14 2 H 14 2 H 14 - _ 2 2 18 1 3f 38 1 3£ 34 1 3i 31 1 3i 29 - 1 3f 44 1 3^ 38 1 3i 33 1 3 32 1 3 30 _ 1 3* 45 1 3i 8 1 3 7 1 3 7 1 3 7 | 1 3i b 2 2 6 2 2' 5 2 2 5 2 2 li 2 2 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 2* 2 1 2 2 1 2 2 1 2 2 1 2* 2 2 2* 36 2 2i 32 ^ 2 27 2 2 26 _ - - - - - - _ 2 2* 40 2 2 60 2 If 50 2 1^ 46 2 If 45! - 2 2 64 1 2| 34 1 2 29 1 2 28 1 2 26! _ 1 2i 40 2 2f 42 2 2i 38 2 2i 36 2 2i 35 - - - _ - - _ _ _ 2 2f 45 2 2 46 2 If! 44 2 If 42 2 If 40 2 2 45 2 H 56 2 1* 50 2 1 48 2 1 48 _ - - _ - - _ _ - 2 H 62 1 If 16 1 li 14 1 li 12 1 li 12 1 If 18 2 H 18 2 U 16 2 li 14 2 H 14 _ - _ _ - - _ _ _ - 2 H 18 1 H 14 1 1 12 1 1 10 1 1 10 1 li 15 1 1* 20 1 1 18 1 1 16 1 1 15 1 li 20 1 2f 25 1 2i 24 1 2 19 1 2 19 2 1* 8 2 1 8 2 1 8 2 1 8 1 2* 17 1 2 14 1 If 13 1 If 12 1 2* 42 1 2* 38 1 2 34 1 2 31 1 2* 43 1 2i 38 1 2i 34 1 2i 32 2 2 4 2 2 4 2 2 4 2 2 4 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 2 2 2* 38 2 2 36 2 2 32 2 2 30 2 H 42 2 U 32 2 H 30 2 If 28 I 2 25 2 U 28 2 If 24 2 If 22 2 If 20 2 U 34 2 1 2a 2 1 26 2 1 24 28 | 2 1 42 2 1 30 2 1 28 2 1 11 14 16 1 1 li 22 1 1 20 1 1 18 1 1 16 2 5 32 2 4f 28 2 41 27 2 41 25 _ '2 5 38 360 1 Table showing* the Length and Size of Standing* and Snips of the Line* Frigates. 2 DECKS. Razees. 3 DECKS. 1st Class. 1st Class. 2d Class, j Names of Rigging. . 6 as 3a B 6 6 02 5 "Si § *1 & 4> N o3 5 bo s CO 6 6 o3 f c 03 a N 33 bl c 3 SPANKER BOOM & j GAFF GEAR. Con. | Falls for Topping-lifts 2 3 36 2 3 36 2 3 36 2 3 36 2 2| 34 Foot Ropes - - - - 2 3 11 2 3 11 2 3 10 2 3 10 2 2f 10 Sheets - - - - - 2 3i 74 2 3| 70 2 3i 70 2 3i 70 2 3 58 Outhauler - - - - 1 4 33 1 4 32 1 4 31 1 4 31 1 3f 30 Peak Halliards - - 1 3f 67 1 31 66 1 3| 64 1 3f 66 1 3| 60 Throat Halliards 1 3* 40 1 3| 39 1 3i 38 1 3* 39 1 3 37 Vangs - - - - - 2 3 60 2 3 56 2 3 55 2 3 56 2 21 48 Peak Brails - - - 2 2 82 2 2 80 2 2 78 2 2 79 2 2 76 Throat Brails - - - 1 3i 45 1 3i 44 1 3} 42 1 3i 43 1 3i 38 Middle Brails - - - 1 2| 41 1 2* 40 1 2* 40 1 2§ 40 1 2| 34 Foot Brails - - - 1 3 39 1 3 38 1 3 38 1 3 38 1 2| 36 GAFF TOP-SAIL GEAR. Halliards - - - - - Outhauler -■-•--- - Sheets - - Downhaul - - - - - MISCELLANEOUS GEAR. Braces, Preventer (Lower Yards) - - 2 3f 116 2 3f 116 2 3| 116 2 3* 116 2 3i 112 Braces, Preventer (Top-sail Yards) - 2 3i 112 2 3i 112 2 3i 112 2 3 112 2 3 108 Cleets, Iron, for Tops 36 - - 36 - 36 - - 36 - - 36 - - Chain Slings for Top- sail Yards - - - 3 - - 3 - 3 - - 3 - _ 3 _ - Chain Slings for Gaff 6 - _ 6 _ 6 - _ 6 _ _ 6 ~ - Falls, Gat. ----- - 2 6 130 2 6 130 2 6 125 2 51 125 2 51 120 Falls, Fish — the sizes and lengths given for Sloops, Brigs & Sch. are for Fish Pend'nts 2 4f 140 S 4f 140 2 41 135 2 4* 135 2 41 120 Falls, Stern Boat - - 4 3i 120 4 3f 120 4 3i 120 4 3 116 4 3 112 Falls, CLuarter Boats 4 3f 160 4 3! 160 4 3| 160 4 31 160 4 3i 150 Falls, Waist Boats - 4 3f 135 4 3£ 135 4 31 135 4 3* 132 4 3| 132 Falls, Deck Tackle - 1 4* 65 1 4i 65 1 4i 65 1 4 62 1 4 62 Falls, Stock and Bill Tackles - - - - 2 3i 60 S 3| 60 2 3* 60 2 Og 58 2 3i 58 Falls, Luff Tackles - 30 4 300 31 4 300 30 4 300 30 3f 300 30 3| 300 Falls, Stay Luff Tack. ! 4 4 100 4 4 100 4 4 100 4 3f 100 4 3f 100 Falls, Jiggers - - - i 8 n 160 g 2f 160 8 2| 160 S 2f 160 8 2f 160 Fenders, Boat (Stuffed Leather) — one set for each boat - - Futtock Staves (Iron) Guys, Fish Davit IS - 18 - - 18 - - IS - IS _ - 4 8 20 Guys, Gluarter Davit - chain Guys, "Waist Davit - Gripes, Launch - - 1 6 26 i 6 26 1 5f 26 1 52 25 1 5| 24 Girt-lines v , Fore Mast- head - - - - - 2 3i 96 i J 3| 96 2 3i 96 2 3| 96 2 3 90 Ron'g digging for all Classes of Vessels, U. S. N.-Om. 361 Frigates! 2d Class. 34 H 31 3i 3 9A 2 3 2 2i 108 108 100 120 52 140 60 3*| 56 280 100 160 Sloops. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class 18 8 48 135 58 52 240 100 160 100 90 90 46 130 5G 48 240 100 160 18 8 46 130 56 48 240 100 160 Brigs. 95 60 7 44 120 52 44 120 100 120 Brig- a ut i nes I 40 116 52 44 120 50 120 Schoon- ers. 3i 40 Steamers. 2§ 21 2f 3| 3} 3 Sft 2 3 2 2i 362 1 Table showing' the Length and Size of Standing* and Names of Rigging Ships of t lie Line. 3 DECKS. MISCELLANEOUS GEAR. Con. Girt-lines,Main Mast- head - - - - - Girt-lines, Miz. Mast- head Girt-lines, Hammock Hooks, Can (Iron) - Hawse Pend. & Hook Hawse R'pe& Shackle Halliards, Signal (set* Hooks, Fish (fr anch. Jacks, Iron (sets) - - Lines,Clothes(Manil.) Lines, Tricing, Ham Nippers (dozens of) - Rungs for Jacob Lad ders (set) - - - - Ropes, Buoy - - - Ropes, Ridge, Awn- ings (set of) - - Ropes, Old (for lash- ings) — as much as may be required - Ropes, Back (for Cat- Blocks) - - - - Rudder Pendants and Chains — as may be required) - - - Stoppers, Cat-head - Stoppers, Ring - - Stoppers, Deck (chain claw) - - - Stoppers, Boats Stoppers, Fighting,doz, Stoppers, Bit - - - j Strap Selvagees (doz.) Swabs (dozens) - - Seines - - - - - Shank Painters (a part (Chain) - - Spare, Gluarter Davit Spare, Waist Davit Travelers, iron, for Top-sail Tyes - - Topping-lifts fr Gtuar ter Davits - - - Tackle, Fore-yard - Tackle, Pendants Tackle, Fore-stay* - Tackle, Main-yard - Tackle, Pendants - Tackle, Main-stay* - Triatic Stay - - - Gluarter and Stay - * Or Triatic Stay-tackle. 52 2 DECKS. 1st Class. | 2d Class. 108 640 2 18 20 1560 144 40 2 3} 30 4 feet 32 100 9 2 3 108 88 640 2 16 18 1560 144 50 80 5 chain chain chain 90 8 60 108 8 60 20 80 40 30 18 4 ft 32 100 9 108 512 2 16 18 2J 1500 3 144 40 80 1 5 2 90 8 60 108 8 60 20 80 Razees. 1| 7 110 ll - 2 - 1 - 48 2| 1440 6 3 144 3 - 108 88 512 2 15 17 Frigates. 1st Class* Sh 30 4 ft! 32 100 9 80 90 8 60 108 8 60 20 so] 40 25 6 17 4 ft. 32 100 9 2 6 2 1 1 1 2 1 - 70 8| 90 2* 104 86 360 2 14 16 1230 132 40 25 9 6 5i 16 60 108 8 60 20 80 1 4 ft. 32 100 9 60 8 55 102 8 55 19 78 Run'g Rigging for all Classes of Vessels, D. S. ».-Cb?i. 363 Frigates. Sloops. Brig- Schoon- Briars. Steamers. 2d Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. . ta ClassJI II antin.es ers. A 1 je 1 1 J5 £ ■d c JS 1 6 N X 5 z B s be C 6 Z 6 C 1 z 6, s in tx S 1-1 c _Z 6 s X d z 6 N 55 M a 4) ►J A 03 N s B ® j i X c 2 3 100 2 21 96 2 2f 92 2 21 92 2 h 92 2 2i 92 2 21 92 2 3 10C 2 2f 84 2 2* 80 2 2* 78 2 2S 78 - — _ 2 2f 84 5 3 325 4 2f 200 4 2| 180 4 j| 180, 4 2k 170 3 21 120 3 2* 120 5 3 325 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 ^ 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 2 2 £ 1 (H 13 1 6 10 1 5* 9 1 3 8 - 1 6* 13 1 9 15 1 8 11 1 8 10 1 7 9 - 1 9 15 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ] 40 2* 1100 34 2 900 30 2 750 30 2 750 2C 2 500 16 2 400 12 2 300 40 2i hoc 6 3 125 6 2f 120 6 21 120 6 31 120 4 2* 85 4 2£ 85' 4 2* 85 6 3 125 3 2 - 2 2 - 3 1 1 _ 1 1 1 1 1 1 _ 2 H 40 2 5 40 2 5 40 2 41 40 2 4 40 2 4 40 2 4 40 2 5| 4C 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ! 1 2 2* 25 2 2 20 2 2 20 2 2 20 2 2 15 2 2 15 - - _ 2 21 25 2 6A 6 2 6i 5 2 6 5 2 6 5 2 5A 3 2 5| 3 I 2 5 3 2 6* ( 4 5 14 4 41 12 4 4* 10 2 4| 10 2 4 10 2 3| 8 2 |! 3| 8 4 5 14 6 4 ft. 4 _ 4 ft 4 _ 4 ft 4 4 ft 1 4 _ 4 ft 4 _ 4 ft 4 _ 4ft 6 _ 4 ft 4 3| 28 4 3 26 4 3 24 4 3 24 4 2f 22 4 2f 20 4 2f 20 4 3* 2* 3 4* 100 2* 4 80 2i 4 80 2* 4 80 2 3f 60 2 3f 60 2 31 60 3 U 10( 4 8* 8 3 ~h 8 3 7 7 3 7 7 3 H 7 3 6 7 3 6 7 4 Si i 3 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 - 2 2 2 1 - 50 1 - 40 1 - 40 1 - 40 1 - 35 1 - 35 1 - 35 1 - 5( 2 6 4 2 5! 3 2 5i 3 2 H 3 2 5 2 2 5 2 2 41 2 2 6 i 6 6 6 6 2 2 ~ 4 2 3| 84 2 1 2 6* 7* 2 6 6 2 5f 6 2 5 6 1 5 3 1 5 3 _ - 2 6i 7 1 3| 54 1 3* 50 1 3* 48 1 3h 46 1 3 40 1 3 40 _ _ 1 3| 5 2 3^ 100 2 3* 86 2 3i 84 2 3* 84 1 3 40 - - - || - - - 2 3f 10 2 6^ 7* 1 2 6* 't 1 3! 54 1 3i 50 1 3* 48 1 3^ 46 1 3 40 1 3 40 - _ - 1 3f 5 1 7 18 i 6A 18| 1 6* 18 1 6* 18 1 6 17 1 5 15 - - _ 1 / 1 1 3* | 70 1 3^ 65 1 1 3 62 1 3 62 1 3 60 - - 1!- - - 1 3| 7 364 524.— A Table showing the Size and Description of Names of Blocks. FLYING JIB-BOOM Downhaul Royal Bow-lines - Halliards F. T. Gal lant-mast-head - JIB-BOOM. Downhaul Brails on Stay Brails leading or Boom-end - Martingale back-ropes Martingale back-ropes Top-gallant Bow-lines Guy Tackles - Guy-Tackles - Jib-stay Tackle Jib-stay Tackle Sheets in Clew of Sail Hall'rds in head of Sail Halliards on top-mast Trestle-trees SPRIT-SAIL YARD. Lifts leading to Bow- sprit Cap - Brace on Yard-arm Brace on Fore-stay Brace on Trestle-trees BOWSPRIT. Fore-top Bow-lines Fore Bow-lines Fore Top-mast Stay- sail Downhaul - Fore top-mast Hall'rds in head of Sail F.T. Mast Hall'rds on top-mast trestle trees F. T. Mast Stay-sail sheets in clew of sail F. Storm stay-sail stay on Bowsprit F. Storm Stay-sail Downhaul - F. storm stay-sail hal- liards in head of sail F.S. stay-sail halliards on Trestle-trees - Bumkin Blocks, (fore tacks) FOREM'ST&YARD. Runner - Descrip- tion of Block. S. s. s. D. s. s. D. s. D. S. s. s. S. Iron b'd. Skips of the Line. 3 DECKS S. Iron b'd S. S. Clump. S. S.Should'r. 1.0 .8 71 1.3 1.3 112 212 212 1.5 1.5 1.3 1.6 1.6 1.5 2.8 1.2 1.4 1.4 2.3 2 DECKS. IstClass. 2d Class 7i 1.0 : 7 1.3 1.3 212 212 1.5 1.5 1.3 1.6 1.6 1.5 2.8 1.2 1.4 1.4 2.3 8 1.3 6, .9 Razees. 1.3 1.6 1.6 1.5 2.8 1.2 1.4 1.4 2.3 Frig- ates. IstClass. 10 1.2 1 17 3.0 1117 3.0 1 17 3.0 1 16 2.81 1 16 2.8 1.5 1.5 1.2 1.4 1.4 1.5 2.4 1.2 1.4 1.4 2.2: 1.0 .8 1.3 1.3 .9 .9 1.5 1.5 .8 1.2 1.2 1.1 1.1 1.4 1.2 1.4 1.3 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.5 1.5 1.2 1.4 1.4 1.5 2.4 1.2 1.3 1.3 2.2 the Different Blocks of all classes of Vessels, I. S. S. 365 Frig- ates. Sloops of War. Brigs. Bi t igan- Sclioon Steam- 2d Class. J 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. mes. ers. ers. : j j I a % o i 1 5s i „• -2 jj 3 c C3 X ~ c Is e "3 ai ~5 1 "a 6 g K 7 02 1.0 A. 1 G OB .9 1 G g .9 6 1 N 08 6 .9 6 1 X G .9 i X 5 02 .8 A. 02 cb 1 jX > 03 1 i 5 .8 1 7 1.0 2 6 .8 2 6 .8 2 G .8 2 5 .7 2 5 . / 2 6 .8 1 7 1.3 1 7 1.3 1 G 1.1 1 G 1.1 1 G 1.1 i 6 1.1 i 61.1 1 7 1 1 1.3 1 8 1.3 1 8 1.3 1 7 1.2 ! 7 1.2 1 G 1.0 i 6 1.0 i 61.0 1 ! 8 1.3 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 G .9 2 G .9 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 G .9 2 G .9 2 6 .9 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 2' 6 .9 2 9 1.5 2 8 1.4 2 8 1.4 2 8 1.4 2 7 1.2 2 7 1.2 2 71.2 2 9 1.5 2 9 9 2 6 .8 1 2 G .8 2 6 .8 2 G .8 2 5 .7 2 5 .7 2 5 .7 2 G .8 4 10 1.2 4 10 1.2 4 10 1.2 4 10 1.2 4 9 1.1 4 9 1.1 4 81.0 4 10 1.2 4 10 1.2 4 10 1.2 4 10 1.2 4 10 1.2 4 9 1.1 4 9 1.1 4 81.0 4 10 1.2 1 10 1.1 1 10 1.1 1 10 1.1 1 9 1.1 1 9 1.0 1 9 1.0 1 81.0 1 10 1.1 1 10 1.1 1 10 1.1 1 10 1.1 1 9 1.1 1 9 1.0 1 9 1.0 1 81.0 1 10 1.1 2 10 1.2 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 b 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 81.0 2 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 1 9 1.1 1 8 1.1 1 8 1.0 1 8 1.0 1 7 .9 1 10 1.2 1 12 1.2 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.0 1 10 1.0 1 10 1.0 1 10 1.0 1 1 01.0 1 12 1.2 2 10 1.3 2 9 1.2 2 9 1.2 2 8 1.1 2 10 1.3 2 10 1.2 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 8 1.0 _ _ - - - - _ _ - 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 8 1.0 - - - - - - _ _ - 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 8 1.0 - - — — ~ - - - — 2 10 1.2 2 11 1.5 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 9 1.3 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 31.2 2 11 1.5 2 11 1.5 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 9 1.3 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 - - - 2 11 1.5 1 8 1.2 1 7 1.0 1 7 1.0 1 7 1.0 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 - - - 1 8 1.2 1 11 1.4 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 1 9 1.1 1 8 1.1 1 8 1.0 - - - 1 11 1.4 1 11 1.4 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 1 9 1.1 1 8 1.1 1 8 1.0 - ■ - - 1 11 .4 2 11 1.4 2 10 1.3 2 10 1.3 2 9 1.2 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 - ■ — 2 11 1.4 1 12 2.4 1 10 2.0 1 10 2.0 1 9 1.8 1 8 1.6 1 8 1.6 - ■ - - 1 12 2.4 1 8 1.2 1 7 1.0 1 7 1.0 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 -j - - - 1 8 1.2 1 11 1.3 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 1 9 1.1 1 8 1.0 1 8 1.0 - - - - 1 11 1.3 t 11 1.3 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 1 9 1.1 1 8 1.0 1 8 1.0 - ■ - - 1 11 1.3 2 14 2.2 2 12 2.0 2 12 2.0 2 11 1.8 2 9 1.6 2 9 1,1 - - - - 2 14: 3.2 i ! 15 2.61 - . J - —1 1 15l: 2.6 366 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dii- Descrip- Ships of the Line. Frig- 3 DECKS. 2 DECKS. Razees. ates. Names of IstClass 2d Class. lstCl; tion of Blocks. i 6» £ sj p Block. _© O o =3 o .IsS S3 "as 6 13 a> . ~ o N £ o N £ 6 s ■S 6 N £ < > .Si is _£ oS 0Q _fc QQ Ul _£ a m _g _S OB J 2 jo j»_ FOREM'ST&YARD. Continued. Tackle for Runner D. 1 17 1.6 1 17 1.6 1 n 1.6 1 n 1.6 117 1.6 Tackle for Runner S. 1 17 1.6 1 17 1.6 n 1.6 1 n 1.6 L 17 1.6 Pendant Tackles - D. 2 17 1.6 2 17 1.6 2 i? 1.6 2 n 1.6 S 216 1.5 Pendant Tackles - D. 2 17 1.6 2 17 1.6 2 17 1.6 2 17 1.6 1 216 1.5 Truss Tackles - - D. 2 10 1.3 2 10 1.3 2 10 1.3 2 10 1.3 5 210 1.3 Truss Tackles - - S. 2 10 1.3 2 10 1.3 2 10 1.3 2 10 1.3 S 210 1.3 Jeers - - - - - T. 2 22 2.4 2 22 2.4 2 22 2.4 2 22 2.4 J 2 20 2.1 Jeers - - - - - D. 2 22 2.4 2 22 2.4 2 22 2.4 2 22 2.4 5 220 2.1 Jeer Leaders - - S. 2 20 2.2 2 20 2.2 2 20 2.2 2 20 2.1 5 220 2.1 Gtuarter Blocks - - S. Iron b'd. 2 1G 2.3 2 16 2.3 2 16 2.3 '2 10 2.3 5 214 2.1 Clew Garnet - - S. Iron b'd. 2 14 1.7 2 14 1.7 2 14 1.7 2 14 1.7 5 213 1.6 Clews of Sail - - S. 2 12 1.7 2 12 1.7 2 Lfc 1.7 2 12 1.7 5 Bunt-lines under Fore Top D. 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 S 2 9 1.3 Bunt-lines under Fore Top Shoe. 2 18 1.3 2 18 1.3 2 18 1.3 2 18 1.3 S J 16 1.2 Leech-lines on Yard S. 4 8 1.2 4 8 1.2 4 8 '1.2 4 8 1.2 4 I 8 1.2 Leech-lines under Top D. 2 8 1.4 2 8 1.4 2 8 1.4 2 8 1.2 S J 8 1.2 Leech-lines After - D. 2 8 1.3 2 8 1.3 2 8 1.3 2 8 1.2 £ i 8 1.2 Leech-lines After - S. 4 8 1.3 4 8 1.3 4 8 1.3 4 8 1.2 ^ t 8 1.2 Braces on Yard-arms s. 2 15 1.6 2 15 1.6 2 15 1.6 2 15 1.6 S 515 1.6 Braces leading under Main Trestle-trees s. 2 15 1.6 2 15 1.6 2 15 1.6 2 15 1.6 S !15 1.6 Lifts on Cap - - - D. 2 16 2.2 2 16 2.2 2 16 2.2 2 16 2.2 S 16 2.2 Lifts on Yard-arms s. 2 1G 2.2 2 16 2.2 2 16 2.2 2 16 2.2 S 16 2.2 Lift Jiggers - - - D. 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 s 10 1.1 Lift Jiggers - - - S. 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 s 10 1.1 Boom Jiggers - - s. 4 9 1.1 4 9 1.1 4 9 1.1 4 9 1.1 4 8 1.0 Boom Jiggers (in and out) - - - - - s. 6 9 1.1 6 9 1.1 6 9 1.1 6 9 1.1 6 8 1.0 Clew Jiggers - - s. 4 8 1.1 4 8 1.1 4 8 1.1 4 8 U t 8 1.1 Bunt Jiggers - - s. 3 8 1.1 3 8 1.1 3 8 1.1 3 8 1.1' 3 8 1.1 Reef Tackles on Yard S.d'blesc'e 2 12 1.8 2 12 1.8 2 12 1.8 2 12 1.8, 2 12 1.8 Fore Tacks in Clews of8ail - - - - S. 2 15 2.3 o 15 2.3 2 15 2.3 2 14 2.2 2 14 2.2 Sheets in Clews of Sail S. 2 15 2.3 2 15 2.3 2 15 2.3 2 14 2.2 2 14 2.2 Swinging-boom Top- ping-lifts, - - - S. clamp. 2 11 1.5 2 11 1.5 2 11 1.5 2 11 1.5 2 11 1.5 Swinging-boom Top- ping-whips, - - D. 2 11 1.1 2 11 1.1 2 11 1.1 2 11 1.1 2 10 1.0 Swinging-boom Top- ping-whips, - - S. 2 11 1.1 2 11 1.1 2 11 1.1 2 11 1.1 2 10 1.0 Pendants for outer 1 Halliards, - - - s. 2 16 1.8 2 16 1.8 2 16 1.8 2 15 1.7 2 14 1.6 Outer Studding-sail Halliards on Boom 1 s. 2 12 1.8 2 12 1.8 2 12 1.8 2 12 1.8 2 11 1.7 Inner Studding-sail 1 I Halliards on Yard s. 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 Inner Studding-sail Halliards on Gluarter s. 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 Tripping-line - - 1; s. 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 9 l.li 2 9 1.1 ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N. — Gcm'd. 367 Frig- ate s« 2d Class. Sloops of IV ar. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class Brigs. Brigan- tiiies. Schoon- ers. Steam- ers. 16. 1.6 16' 1.6 15 1.5 15 L.5 1.5 1.5 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0, 8Jl.ll 10 1.0 14 1.5 1.5 1.8 1.8 .9 .9 .9 .9 1.0 1.0 1.6 2.0 2.0 1.3 .9 .9 1.4 1.5 1.2 8 1.2 81I.O 12 i 1.3 1.7 1.7 .9 .9 .9 I .9 1.0 .9 1.6 1.8 1.8 1.3 .9 .9 1.3 1.5 1.1 1.1 1 1.0 1.0 .8 4 .8! 2 ,8 : j 2 4 1.2 1.2 1.5 2S. 2 2 V .8! 6 .8 2 1.2 1.2 1.4 1.1 - 2 - 4 - 2 --1 1.1 1.1 2 1.2 2s. - 2 .8 2 .8; 2 - 4 - 4 J 3 2 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.1 1.6 1.5 1.3 1.2 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.5 1.5 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.1 1.0 1.7 1412.2 14 2.2 101.4 2 2 8! 1.0 368 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- Descrip- tion of Skips of tke Line. Frig- 3 DECKS. 2 DECKS. Razees. ates. Names of IstClass. 2d Class. IstClass. Blocks. £ ^ ! £ 1 £ £ Block. _o o _2 o o 3 | "3 a5 "1 6 H "rf oj aS o" £ o N •s 6 N & 6 N & 6 s & _£ 82 0Q J5 K m _£ 0Q CQ _£ 53 02 J3 ffl 02 FOREM'ST&YARD. Continued. Lower Studding-sail Downhaul - - S. 2 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 o 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 After Guys - - - S. Iron b'd. 2 11 1.5 2 11 1.5 2 11 1.5 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 Forward Guys (Cheek on Bowsprit) - - Tacks on Boom-end S. 2 11 1.5 2 11 1.5 2 11 1.5 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 S. 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.6 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 Tricing-lines for Stud- ding-sail Gear - s. 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 FORE TOP MAST AND YARD. Top Blocks - - - S. Iron b'd. 2 22 3.6 2 22 3.6 2 22 3.6 2 20 3.0 2 20 3.0 Top Tackles - - D. 4 20 2.0 4 20 2.0 4 20 2.0 4 20 2.0 4 19 1.9 Top Leaders - - S. 2 20 2.0 2 20 2.0 2 20 2.0 2 20 2.0 2 19 1.9 Top Burtons - - Fiddle. 2 20 1.4 2 20 1.4 2 20 1.4 2 18 1.4 2 18 1.4 Top Burtons - - S. 2 12 1.4 2 12 1.4 2 12 1.4 2 11 1.4 2 11 1.4 Top Runners - - S. 2 12 1.7 2 12 1.7 2 12 1.7 2 11 1.5 2 11 1.5 Breast Backstays - D. 4 15 1.4 4 15 1.4 4 15 1.4 4 14 1.4 4 14 1.4 Breast Backstays - T. Iron b'd. 4 15 1.4 4 15 1.4 4 15 1.4 4 14 1.4 4 14 1.4 Gin Blocks (To be fit- ted with band over Trestle Trees - S. 2 18 2.7 2 18 2.7 2 18 2.7 2 18 2.7 2 17 2.7 Tye Blocks - - - S. Iron b'd. 2 19 2.5 2 19 2.5 2 19 2.5 2 18 2.5 2 17 2.4 Fly Blocks - - - D. 2 22 1.6 2 22 1.6 2 22 1.6 2 20 1.6 2 20 1.6 Fly Blocks - - - S. 2 22 1.6 2 22 1.6 2 22 1.6 1 2 2( 1.6 2 20 1.6 Leaders for Fly Blocks S. 2 22 1.6 2 22 1.6 2 22 1.6 2 20 1.6 2 20 1.6 Braces on Yard-arms s. 2 17 1.7 2 17 1.7 2 17 1.7 2 16 1.7 2 16 1.6 Braces on Collar of Main Stay - - Braces under Main s. 2 14 1.7 2 14 1.7 2 14 1.7 2 12 1.7 2 11 1.6 Trestle Trees - s. 2 15 1.7 2 15 1.7 2 15 1.7 2 15 1.7 2 14 1.6 Sister ----- D. 2 20 2.2 2 20 2.2 2 20 2.2 2 20 2.1 2 19 2.0 Leaders for Lifts - S. Clump. 2 12 2.2 2 12 2.2 2 12 2.2 2 10 2.1 2 10 2.0 Lift Jiggers - - - D. 2 10 1.0 2 10 1.0 2 10 1.0 2 10 1.0 2 9 1.0 Lift Jiggers - - - S. 2 10 1.0 2 10 1.0 2 10 1.0 2 10 1.0; 2 9 1.0 CLuarter Blocks - - D. Iron b'd. 2 13 1.7 2 13 1.7 2 13 1.7 2 13 1.7 2 13 1.6 Clew-lines in Clews' of Top-sail - - | S. 2 12 1.7 2 12 1.7 2 12 1.7 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.6 Rolling Tackle - - D. 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.6, 2 11 1.6 Rolling Tackle - - S. 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.61 2 11 1.6 Bunt-lines at Mast- head- - - - - S. Iron b'd. 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6; 2 12 1.6 Reef Tackle Whips S. 4 12 1.6 4 12 1.6 4 12 1.6 4 12 1.6) 4 12 1.6 Sheets in Clews of " 1 Top-sail - - - S. 2 13 2.3 2 13 2.3 2 13 2.3 2 12 2.2 2 12 2.2 Bunt- runner - - - s. 1 10 1.4 1 10 1.4 1 10 1.4 1 10 1.4! 1 9 1.2 Jigger for Bunt-runner j D. 1 8 1.2 1 8 1.2 1 8 1.2 1 8 1.2: 1 8 1.2 Jigger for Bunt-runner s. 1 8 1.2 1 8 1.2 1 8 1.2 1 8 1.2 1 8 1.2 Clew Jiggers - - s. 4 9 1.2 4 9 1.2 4 9 1.2 4 9 1.2 4 9 1.2 Boom Tricing-lines | s. 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0' 2 811.0 Span for Studding-sail | Halliards - - - s. 2 13 1.7 2 13 1.7 2 13 1.7 2 13 1.7, 2 121 1.6 Jewel Blocks - - s. 2 13 1.7 2 13 1.7 2 13 1.7 2 13 1.71 2 13) 1.6 ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N.— Cont'd. 369 Frig- ates* Sloops of War. Brigs. Brig an- Schoon- Steam- 2d Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. tines. ers. ers. te £ i i £ i ss j ■J J o _o o _o ^o _o _o ■ w % aj "o3 e "3 oi "3 o *<3 s «3 d "3 6 N > o s £ 5* sj © n £ p is o £ 6 £ 3, N £ g OS CO g 55 CO g 02 03 g go CO g J» 0J g QQ CQ g QQ CO g QQ » 2 6 1.0 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 10 1.2 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 10 1.2 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 8 .9 2 8 .9 2 8 .9 2 8 .9 2 10 1.2 2 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 2 6 1.0 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 - - - 2 7 1.0 2 20 3.0 2 18 2.5 2 18 2.5 1 16 2.2 1 14 2.0 1 14 2.0 1 10 1.5 2 20 3.0 4 18 1.9 4 16 1.8 4 16 1.8 2 14 1.5 4 18 1.9 2 18 1.9 2 16 1.8 2 16 1.8 1 14 1.5 2 18 1.9 2 16 1.4 2 15 1.4 2 14 1.0 2 14 1.0 2 13 .9 2 13 .9 - - - 2 16 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 8 .9 2 8 .9 — - - 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.5 2 10 1.5 2 9 1.2 2 9 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 10 1.5 4 14 1.4 2 12 1.3 2 12 1.2 2 12 1.2 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 4 14 1.4 4 14 1.4 2 12 1.3 2 12 1.2 2 12 1.2 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 4 14 1.4 2 16 2.5 2 14 2.4 2 14 2.4 1 12 1.8 2 16 2.3 2 16 2.3 1 14 2.0 1 12 1.8 1 12 1.8 2 16 2.3 2 18 1.5 2 16 1.4 2 14 1.4 1 12 1.4 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 2 18 1.5 2 18 1.5 2 16 1.4 2 14 1.4 1 12 1.4 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 2 18 1.5 2 18 1.5 2 16 1.4 2 14 1.4 1 12 1.4 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 1 10 1.2 2 18 1.5 2 15 1.6 2 14 1.5 2 13 1.4 2 12 1.4 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 2 8 1.0 2 15 1.6 2 10 1.6 2 9 1.5 2 9 1.4 2 8 1.4 2 7 1.2 2 7 1.2 - - - 2 10 1.6 2 14 1.6 2 12 1.5 2 12 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 2 14 1.6 2 18 2.0 2 16 1.9 2 15 1.8 2 14 1.8 2 13 1.7 2 12 1.7 2 10 1.4 2 IS 2.0 2 10 2.0 2 10 1.9 2 9 1.8 2 8 1.8 2 8 1.7 2 7 1.7 2 7 1.4 2 10 2.0 2 9 1.0 2 8 .9 2 8 .9 2 8 .9 2 7 .8 2 7 .8 2 7 .8 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 8 .9 2 8 .9 2 8 .9 2 7 .8 2 7 .8 2 7 .8 2 9 1.0 2 12 1.6 2 11 1.6 2 10 1.5 2 10 1.4 2 9 1.3 2 9 1.3 2 8 1.2 2 12 1.6 2 10 1.5 2 9 1.4 2 9 1.4 2 9 1.4 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 10 1.5 2 10 1.5 2 9 1.4 2 9 1.4 2 9 1.4 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 10 1.5 2 10 1.5 2 9 1.4 2 9 1.4 2 9 1.4 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 10 1.5 2 11 1.6 2 9 1.4 2 9 1.4 2 9 1.4 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 11 1.6 4 11 1.6 4 9 1.4 4 9 1.4 4 9 1.4 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 4 11 1.6 2 11 J 2 10 1.9 2 10 1.9 2 10 1.9 2 2 11 2.0, 1 9 1.2 1 8 1.0 1 8 1.0 1 8 1.0 1 8 .9 1 8 .9 1 6 .9 1 9 1.2 1 7 1.1 1 7 1.0 1 7 1.0 1 7 1.0 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 1 7 1.1 1 7 1.1 1 7 1.0 1 7 1.0 1 7 1.0 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 1 7 1.1 4 8 1.1] 4 8 1.1 4 8 1.1 4 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 2 6 .9 4 8 1.1 2 7 • 9 ! 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 2 G .8 2 6 .8 - - - 2 7 .9 2 12 1.6 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.6 2 10 1.5 2 10 1.5 2 10 1.5 2 9 1.4 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6! 2 11 1.6 2 11 1.6 2 10 1.5 2 10 1.5 2 10 1.5 2 9 M 2 12 1.6 24 370 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- Descrip- tion of 1 Ships of the Line. Frig- 3 DECKS. 2 DECKS. Razees. ates. Names of IstClass. 2d Class. IstClass. Blocks. £ * i j» i Block* 8 6 o 13 a> q 13 s o -3 o N £ 6 s 6 N £ c £ 6 & & CO ca _£ 02 oa _£ OS a? _£ j» 03 JE 'co 03^ FORE TOP-MAST AND YARD. Contin. Studding-sail Tacks on Buom ends - S. 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 7 1.1 Studding-sail Down- haul in sails - - s. 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 Leaders for Boom- braces in Main Rig- ging s. 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 7 1.1 F'RE TOP-GAL'NT MAST AND YARD. Top Block - - - S. Iron b'd. 1 14 2.2 1 14 2.2 1 14 2.2 1 14 2.0 1 13 2.0 Breast Backstays - S. 2 11 1.1 2 11 1.1 2 11 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 Breast Backstays in Channels - - - D. Iron b'd. 2 11 1.1 2 11 1.1 2 11 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 Halliards - - - - D. 2 12 1.3 2 12 1.3 2 12 1.3 2 10 1.3 2 10 1.3 Braces on Yard-arms S. 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 2 9 1.1 Braces on Collar of Main Top-m'st Stay s. 2 7 1.1 ' 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 Braces on Main Top- mast-head - - - s. 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 Sister - - - - - s. 2 10 1.6 2 10 1.6 2 10 1.6 2 9 1.5 2 9 1.5 Lifts in Top - - - S. Clamp. 2 6 1.6 2 6 1.6 2 6 4.6 2 6 1.5 2 6 1.5 Lift Jiggers - - - D. 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 Lift Jiggers - - - S. 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 duarter Blocks - - D. 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 Bunt-lines - - - S. 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 Span Blocks, Top-gal- lant Studding-sail Halliards - - - s. 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 Jewel Blocks - - s. 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 Studding-sail Tacks on Boom Ends - s. 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 7 l.l F'RE ROYAL MAST AND YARD. Breast Backstays - s. 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 Breast Backstays in Top ----- Royal Braces M'nT'p- gallant Mast-head D. Iron b'd. 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 s. 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 •Quarter Blocks s. 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 Bunt-line Bloeks - s. i 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 1 6 .9 FORE TRY-SAIL MAST & GAFF. Peak Halliards - - D. Iron b'd. 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5 Peak Halliards - - S. 2 12 1.5 2 12 1.5 2 12 1.5 2 12 1.5 2 12 1.5 Throat Halliards - D. 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5! 1 12 1.5 Throat Halliards - S. Iron b'd. 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5 1 12 1.5 Peak Brails - - - Cheek. Throat Brails - - S. 2 9 1.2 2 9 1.2 2 9 1.2 2 9 1.2 2 9 1.2 Middle Brails - - S. 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 Foot Brails - - - S. 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 Sheets S. 4 13 1.7 4 13 1.7 4 13 1.7 4 12 1.6 4 12 1.6 Vangs S. ' 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2 2 8 1.2! 2 8 1.2: 2 8 1.2 ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N.— Cont'd. 371 Frig- ates. Sloops of War. Brigs. Br igan- Schoon- Steam- 2d Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. tines. ers. ers. 6 _5_ ajj ~3 CO 6 _5_ oS 5i 1 X 6 J5_ 09 X is X 6 _5_ "a CO 6 s ■f. 10 6 s in CO J_ in o 1 X i_ s _X 1 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 2 7 1.1 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 2 G .8 2 6 .8 2 6 .8 2 7 .9 2 7 1.1 2 6 1.0 2 G 1.0 2 G 1.0 2 G 1.0 2 6 1.0 2 6 1.0 2 7 1.1 1 2 12 2.0 1 11 1.8 1 2 11 1.8 1 1 2 10 R 1.6 1 2 9 7 1.4 1 2 9 7 1.4 .9 2 1 1 2 12 9 2.0 1 2 2 2 9 10 8 1.0 1.2 1.0 2 2 2 8 8 7 1.0 1.2 1.0 2 2 2 8 8 7 1.0 1.2 1.0 2 2 2 8 b 7 1.0 1.2 1.0 2 2 7 7 .9 1.0 2 2 7 7 .9 i.a 2 2 7 7 .9 1.0 2 2 2 9 10 8 1.0 1.2 1.0 2 7 1.0 2 6 1.0 2 G 1.0 2 G 1.0 2 5 .9 2 5 1 - - 2 7 1.0 2 2 2 •2 2 2 2 7 8 6 7 7 9 7 1.0 1.4 1.4 1.0 1.0 1.4 1.0 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 G 7 6 7 7 8 G 1.0 1.4 1.4 1.0 1.0 1.3 1.0 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 G 7 G G G 7 G 1.0 1,1 1.4 .9 .9 1.2 .9 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 G 7 G G G 7 G 1.0 1.4 1.4 .9 .9 1.2 .9 2 2 2 2 2 2 5 G G 5 5 6 G .9 1.3 1.4 .8 .8 1.1 .9 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 5 G 6 5 5 G G - 9 i 1.3! 1.4' .8 .8 1.1 .9 2 2 5 5 .9 1.2 _ J 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 7 8 G 7 7 9 7 1.0 1.4 1.4 1.0 1.0 1.4 1.0 2 2 7 7 1.0 1.0 2 2 G G 1.0 1.0 2 2 6 G .9 .9 2 2 G G .9 .9 2 2 6 G .9 .9 2 2 6 6 .9 .9 2 2 G 6 2 2 7 7 1.0 1.0 2 7 1.0 2 6 1.0 2 G .9 2 G .9 o 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 5 .8 2 7 1.0 2 6 ■ 9 I 2 G .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 _ _ _ 2 6 .9 2 6 1 .9 2 G .9 2 6 .9 2 G .9 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 - - - 2 6 .9 2 2 1 6 6 6 .9 .9 .9 2 2 1 5 5 5 .8 .8 .8 2 2 1 5 5 5 .8 .8 .8 2 2 1 5 5 5 .8 I 2 2 5 5 .8 .8 2 2 5 5 .8 .8 - : - 2 2 1 6 6 6 .9 .9 .9 1 2 1 1 11 11 11 11 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 1 1 1 1 10 10 10 10 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1 1 1 1 10 10 10 10 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1 1 1 10 10 10 10 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1 1 1 1 8 8 8 8 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1 1 1 8 8 8 8 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1 2 1 1 14 14 14 14 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7 1 2 1 1 11 11 11 11 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 2 2 2 4 2 8 8 8 11 8 1.1 .9 1.1 1.5 11.2 2 2 2 4 2 8 7 7 10 7 1.1 .8 1.0 1.4 1.1 o 2 2 4 2 8 7 7 10 7 1.1 .8 1.0 1.4 1.1 2 2 I i 2 8 7 7 10 7 1.1 .8 1.0 1.4 1.1 2 2 2 4 2 7 6 G 8 6 1.0 .7 .9 1.2 1.0 2 2 2 4 2 7 6 6 8 6 1.0 •7 .9 1.2 1.0 2 2 2 I 9 7 9 13 8 1.2 J 1.1 1.2 2 2 2 4 2 8 8 8 11 8 1.1 .9 1.1 1.5 1.2 372 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- Names of Blocks* MAIN MAST AND YARD. Runner - - - - Tackle for Runner Tackle for Runner Pendant Tackles - Pendant Tackles - Truss Tackles - - Truss Tackles - - Jeers - - - - - Jeers - - - - - Jeer Leaders - - Gluarter Blocks - - Clew Garnet - - Clews of Sail - - Bunt-lines under M'n Top Bunt-lines under M'n Top Leech-lines on Yard Leech-lines under Top Leech-lines After - Leech-lines After - Braces on Yard-arms Braces on Bumkins ■ Lifts on Cap - - - Lifts on Yard-arms Lift Jiggers - - - Lift Jiggers - - - Boom Jiggers - - Boom Jiggers (in and out) lew * Bunt Jiggers Reef Tackles on Yard Tack Blocks- - - Tacks in Clews of Sail ----- Sheets in Clews of Sail Runner for Bow-line Jigger for Bow-line Tricing-lines for Stud- ding-sail Gear - MAIN TOP-MAST & YARD. Top Blocks - - - Top Tackles - - Top Leaders - - Top Burtons - - Top Burtons - - Top Runners - - Descrip- tion of Block. S. D. S. D. S. D: S. T. D. S. Iron b'd. Iron b'd. S. D. Shoe. S. D. D. S. s. s. D. s. D. S. s. s. s. s. d'ble sc'e S. S. Iron b'd. D. S. Fiddle. S. S. Skips of tke Line. 3 DECKS. 22 22 220 2 DECKS. IstClass. 2d Class 2.31 2 i 2.3i 2 1.3! 2 1.3 2 1.1 2 3.0 1.6 1.6 1-6] 1.6 1.3 1.3 2.4 2.4 2.4; 2.3; 1.7 1.7 1.3 I 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 8L1.3 222 Razees. 2.8 1.6 1.6 1.6; l i\ 1.3; 1.3 2.4 2.4' 2.4 2.2 1.6 1.6 I J 19 2.0 19: 2.0 1.3 2.3 2.3 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.8 , 2.3 1.3 1.3 1.1 V2.8 IstClass. ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N. — Cont'd. 373 Frig- ates. 2d Class. 18i 1.9 181 1.9 151 2.2 13:2.1 9 1.0 9| 1.0 8 1.0 3.0 2.4 2.4 1.4 1.4 2.6 Sloops of War. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class 14 2.0 12 1.4 10 1.4 2 2 23. 2 2 . 2 I 8 4 6 4 3 9 12 12 12 S 8 1.2 2 14 2.5 1 l.S 1.4 1.4 2.4; 2 14 2 6 6 Brigs. 14 14 2.0 Brigan- Selioon- Steam- tines. I ers. ! ers. 10 1.2 2,0 10 - 1.0 2.0 15 2.G 151.6 151.6 151.6 15 1.6 i- 19 2.3 19 2.3 19 2.3 15 2.1 1.5 1.5 1.2 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.9 1.9 2.2 2.1 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.7 2.2 2.2 2.2 1.2 1.2 1.1 3.0 2.4 2.4 1.4 1.4 2.6 374 A Table showing* the Size and Description of the Dif- Descrip- tion of 1 Snips of the Line. Frig- b npfiro 2 DECKS. Razees. ates. Names of C> UUV1VU. IstClass. 2d Class. IstClass. Blocks. £ £ i £ i Block. ji js JS o _o 8 "3 CO 1 7 1.0 1 7 1.0 i G .9 1 G .9 1 7 1.0 L 7 1.0, 1 7 1.0 i 6 .9 1 G .9 - - - - - - - - 1 7 1.0 2 5 .9 2 5 .9 2 4 .8 2 5 .9 2 5 .9 2 7 1.3 2 6 1.2 2 G 1.2 2 5 1.0 _ 2 7 1.3 2 . J 2 2 2 2 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 _ _ _ _ _ _ - _ 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 6 .9 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 - _ _ _ _ _ - _ 2 6 .9 2 6 1.1 2 6 1.1 2 5 1.0 2 5 1.0 _ - _ _ _ _ _ _ 2 G 1.1 1 G 1.1 1 5 .9 - - - - - - - ~ 6 1.1 2 G 1.1 2 5 1.0 2 5 1.0 2 5 .9 - - - - - - - ~ - 2 6 1.1 2 6 .8 ! 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 2 6 .8 2 6 .8 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 _ _ _ _ _ _ — 2 6 .8 2 6 .8 1 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 2 6 .8 2 5 • 2 5 .9 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 - - - - - - - - - 2 5 .9 2 5 .9 2 5 .9 2 5 .8 2 5 .8 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 2 5 .9 1 5 .9 1 5 .9 1 5 .8 1 5 .8 " " — — " — "~ 1 5 .9 2 12 2.5 2 11 2.0 2 11 2.0 2 11 2.0 2 10 1.8 2 10 1.8 2 11 2.0 2 12 2.5 2 10 1.1 2 9 1.0 2 8 .9 2 8 2 10 1.1 2 9 1.0 2 8 .9 2 8 .9 2 8 .9 2 10 1.1 2 11 1.2 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 - - _ _ _ _ - _ _ 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 - - _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 2 10 1.4 1 12 1.3 1 11 1.2 1 10 1.1 1 10 1.1 - _ 1 12 1.3 2 11 1.3 1 10 1.3 1 10 1.2 1 9 1.1 - - _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 2 11 1.3 1 12 1.3 1 11 1.2 1 10 1.1 1 10 1.1 - - _ _ _ _ - _ _ 1 12 1.3 I 12 1.3 1 11 1.2 1 10 1.1 1 10 1.1 - - - - - - - " - 1 12 1.3 2 8 1.1 2 8 1.1 2 7 1.0 2 7 1.0 _ _ _ _ _ 2 8 1.1 2 3 1.0 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 - _ - _ _ J 1 _ _ _ 2 8 1.0 2 8 1.0 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 2 7 .9 _ _ - _ _ J - _ _ 2j 8 1.0 1 12 1.5 1 10 1.4 1 9 1.2 1 9 1.2 - _ _ _ _ J _ _ _ 1 ,12 1.5 2 7 11 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 6 .9 - - - - - 1 - - - 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 7 1.1 2 6 .9 - - - - - 1 - - - 2 7 1.1 1 _| 1 1 1 1 1 _l 1 — 1 382 A Table showing the Size and Description of the Dif- Names of Blocks. MISCELLANEOUS BLOCKS. Cat Blocks - - - Cat Backropes - - Fish Tackle - - Fish Leaders - - Clear Hawse Pend'nts Bull's Eyes for clothes- lines - - - - - Cap Bobstay Hearts Middle and Inner H'rts Bowsprit Shr'ds H'rts Iron-strapped Bull's Eyes (in head), size and number as req'd Luff Tackle Blocks Luff Tackle Blocks for Stays eading Fo'castle and Gang- ways - - - - Fife-rail Leaders - Side Leaders - - Snatch Blocks - - Hammock Girt-lines Ham'ck Tricing-lines Relieving Tackles - Relieving Tackles - Awning Jiggers Lower Yard Whips Crow-foot Halliards for Awnings - - Stern, Gluarter and Waist Davit Blocks Leading Trucks - Leading Trucks - Fore Yard - - - Fore Yard - - - Fore Stay - - - Fore Stay - - - Main Yard - - - Main Yard - - - Main Stay - - - Main Stay - - - Gluarter and Stay - Dead Eyes (set) Stock and Bill Tackle! Stock and Bill Tackle; Trucks for Jaws of j Gaff (set) - .- - ! Masthead Trucks(set) F. T. Studding-sail | Boom Burtons - j F. T. Studding-sail j Boom Burtons - j Des. Ships of the Line. Frig- 3 DECKS. 2 DECKS. Razees. ates. of 1st Class. 2d Class. 1st Class. > ■j i ■> i- Bl'ck. _o jg s§* JO CO "3 6 » 6 n aj m 1 5j 1 33 05 6 02 is 03 A _03 03 6 T. 2 20 2.6 2 20 2.6 2 20 2.6 2 20 2.5 2 18 2.2 S. 4 9 1.2 4 9 1.2 4 9 1.2 4 9 1.2 4 8 1.1 D. 4 20 2.2 4 20 2.2 4 20 2.2 4 20 2.2, 4 20 2.0 S. 3 18 2.2 3 18 2.2 3 18 2.2 3 18 2.2 3 16 1.8 s. 1 - - 1 - - 1 - ~ 1 - - 1 - - 100 _ _ 100 _ _ 100 _ _ 100 _ _ 80 _ _ L.Vit. 2 2 2 _ 2 2 L. Vit. 4 - _ 4 - _ 4 - J 4 - - 4 - - L.Vit. 8 8 8 J 8 8 S. 60 12 1.4 60 12 1.4 60 12 1.4 60 12 1.4 1 40 12 1.4 D. i i 1G 15 1.8 16 15 1.8 16 15 1.8 16 14 1.J 16 14 1.6 Assort 12 _ 12 _ 12 12 12 S.d.sc 56 - _ 56 - _ 56 _ i 56 - 1 56 - - 100 - _ 100 - _ 100 _ _ 400 - _! 100 fe- _ Assort I 20 - _ 20 - - 20 _ — i 20 - ! 20 - - S. 20 12 1.8 20 12 1.8 20 12 1.8! 20 12 1.8 16 ll 1.5 S. 12 10 1.4 12 10 1.4 12 10 1.4' 12 10 1. 4 12 9 1.0 D. 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4! 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 S. 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4! 2 10 1.4: 2 10 1.4 D. 8 10 1.4 8 10 1.4 8 10 1.4 1 8 10 1.4 8 9 1.2 S. 4 9 1.1 4 9 1.1 4 9 1.1 4 9 1.1 4 8 1.0 S. 12 7 .9 12 7 .9 12 t .9 12 7 .9, 1 12 7 .9 D.Irb. 20 10 1.4 20 10 1.4 20 10 1.4 20 10 1 1.4; 12 10 1.4 D. 30 - _ 30 - _ 30 _ J 30 - _j 30 - - S. 30 - _ 30 - _ 30 _ J 30 _ _ l 30 - Fiddle 2 33 1.7 2 33 1.7 2 33 1.7 2 33 1.7 2 33 1.7 S. 2 18 1.7 2 18 1.7 2 18 1.7 2 16 1.7 2 16 1.7 D. 1 17 1.7 1 17 1.7 1 17 1.7J 1 16 1.7 1 16 1.7 S. 1 17 1.7 1 17 1.7 1 17 1.7| 1 16 1.7 1 16 1.7 Fiddle 2 33 1.7 2 33 1.7 2 33 1.71 2 33 1.7 2 33 1.7 S. 2 18 1.7 2 18 1.7 2 18 1.7 2 16 1.7 2 16 1.7 D. 1 17 1.7 1 17 1.7 1 17 1.7 1 16 1.7 1 16 1.7 S. 1 17 1.7 1 17 1.7 1 17 1.7 1 16 1.7 1 16 1.7 S. 4 16 1.6 4 16 1.6 4 16 1.6 4 15 1.6 4 15 1.6 _ 1 1 1 1 1 D. 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6 s.. 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6! 1 2 12 1.6 2 12 1.6 i 1 1 1 ! 1 1 - 1 1 1 1 — i 1 D. | 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 s. I 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.1 2 10 1.11 2 10 1.1 ferent Blocks of all classes of Vessels, U. S. N. — Conc'd. 383 Frig- ates. Sloops of" War. Brigs. Brigan- Sclioon- | Steam- 2d Class. 1st Class. 2d Class. 3d Class. tines. 1 * > i > =: st" £ 1 i o s q o • ~ r : — ~ ,-, 09 S3 a rt -■ a . a> a N s > 6 N o j; o St 6 St o ? a m 02 a 0Q CQ a K m a 05 CO a 7. 73 a ■j. w ^ 7. CO <£ 7. 'ji 9, 17 2.1 2 16 2.0 2 15 1.9 2 14 1.8 2D 13 1.7 2D 12 1.6 2D 11 1.5 1 2 17 2.1 4 H 1.1 4 7 1.0 4 7 1.0 4 7 1.0 _ _ - _ _ - - - - 8 1.1 4 1.8 2.0 J 4 18 2.0 3 16 1.8 "1 3 1G 1.8 1 - I 1 1 - - 1 - - 1 - - 1 - - 1 - _! 1 ~ 1 " 00 40 _ 40 _ 40 _ 20 _ _ 20 _ _ 20 _ _ 60 _ _ 9 2 2 2 2 2 2 - 2 4 4 4 4 2 2 2 J 4 8 i 4 4 4 4 4 4 8 — ' 40 11 1.4 24 10 1.2 24 10 1.2 24 10 1.2 20 10 1.2 20 9 1.1 20 9 1.1 40 11 1.4 16 13 1.5 8 12 1.4 8 12 1.3 8 11 1.3 8 11 1.3 4 10 1.2 4 10 1.2 16 13 1.5 12 1 8 8 8 12 40 _ -36 _ _ 36 - _ 36 _ _ 20 _ - 20 - - 20 - - 40 - - 100 _ -80 _ -80 - _ 70 - _ |40 - - 40 - - 20 - 100 - - 20 _ J 15 _ -15 _ _ 15 _ _10 - _ 10 - - 8 - _ 15 - - 16 10 1.4 |12 10 1.412 9 1.2 12 9 1.2 8 9 1.2 8 9 1.2i 8 9 1.1 16 10 1.4 12 9 1.0 12 1.012 8 8 9 1.0 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 9 1.2 2 9 12 2 9 1.2 2 9 1.2 2 9 1.2 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 10 1.4 2 9 1.2 2 10 1.4 8 9 1.2 8 8 1.1 8 8 1. 1 8 7 9 6 7 .9 6 6 .8 6 G .8 8 1.2 4 8 1.0 4 7 1.0 4 7 1.0 4 7 1.0 4 6 .8 4 6 .8 2 G .8 4 8 1.0 12 6 .8 6 G .8 6 6 .8 6 6 .8 4 5 .7 4 5 .7 4 5 .7 6 6 .8 12 10 1.2 10 !) 1.1 10 9 1.1 10 8 1.0 10 8 1.0 10 8 1.0 10 8 1.0 12 10 1.2 30 _ -,20 _ _ 20 - _ 20 - _ 12 - _ 12 - J 12 - _ 30 - - 30 _ -20 20 12 30 . 2 30 1.6 2 24 1.5 2 22 1.5 2 22 1.4 1 20 1.4 1 20 1.3 1 20 1.3 2 30 l.G 2 16 1.5 2 2 1 2 1 15 1.6 1 13 1.5 1 13 1.5 1 13 1.5 1 12 1.3 1 10 1.2 - - - 1 15 l.G 1 15 1.6 1 1 1 1 L5 l.G 2 30 1.6 2 24 1.5 2 22 1.5 2 22 1.4 1 20 1.4 1 20 1.3 1 20 1.3 2 30 l.G 2 16 1.5 2 14 1.5 2 13 1.3 2 13 1.3 1 12 1.2 1 12 1.2 1 10 1.1 2 10 1.5 1 15' 1.6 1 13 1.5 1 13 1.5 1 13 1.5 1 12 1.3 1 1U 1.2 - _ J 1 15 l.G 1 15! 1.6 1 13 1.5 1 13 1.5 1 13 1.5 1 12 1.3 1 10 1.2 - - 1 15 l.G 4 14 1.5 4 13 1.5 4 12 1.4 4 12 1.4 4 10 1.1 - - - - ~i 4 141.5 1 1 1 1 _ 1 1 ~i 1 - 2 11 1.4 2 11 1.4 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 J 2 11 1.4 2 11 1.4 2 11 1.4 2 10 1.2 2 10 1.2 J 2 11 1.4 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 _ 1 2 10 1.1 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 - - - - - ■J - - - o 10 1.0 2 ,10 1.1 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 2 9 1.0 _ - - - - - - - 2 10 1.0 384 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 525.— A Table showing the projective Distances from Spar-deck of IT. S. Ship North Carolina* From Night-head to Bowsprit Cap 53 feet " " to Jib-boom ... 91 « " " to Flying Jib-boom - - - 109 " " " to Jib of Jib-Truck - - 128 " From Spar-deck to Fore Cap - 77i " u " to F. T. M. Cap - 122i " Ck " to F. T. Gallant Cap - - - 145i " " " to F. Royal Cap - - - 170* " " " to F. Sky-sail Truck - - - 187£ " " " to Main Cap ... 90 " " " to M. T. M. Cap ... 141 " " " to M. T. Gallant Cap - - 166 " " " to M. Royal Cap ... I93i " " " to M. Sky-sail Truck - - 21l£ " " " to Mizen Cap 75£ " " « to M. T. M. Cap - 116 " " " to M. T. Gallant Cap - - - - 136 " " " to M. Royal Cap - 158 « " " to M. Sky-sail Truck - 173 " Length on Spar-deck 209 " Main Gun-deck 207 " Lower Gun-deck 201 " Extreme length from Night-head to TafTrail - 210 " Ft. In. Breadth of Beam ------- 53.6 Depth from Taffiail to False Keel - - - 53.4 Height from Water to Port-sill - 7.6 Height between deck from Spar to Main Gun-deck 7.1 " " " from Main to Lower Gun-deck 7.3 u " " from Lower to Orlop - - 7.3 Size of Spar-deck Beam ----- 10 " of Main Gun-deck Beam - 1.3 " of Lower Gun-deck Beam - - - - 1.3 Height from Port-sills to Spar-deck - .7 " « to Main Gun-deck - - l.llf " " to Lower Gun-deck - - 2.2 OR YOUNG SAILORS 5 ASSISTANT. 385 Distance between Ports No. 1 ai id 2, Spar-deck - 8.1 tt u 2 < 3, " 12.5 u a " 3 ' 4, " 7. tt a 4 < 5, " 6.10 tt ti " 5 < 6, " 8. U it " 6 1 7, " 8. it ti a 7 i < 8, « 8. it it 8 ' < 9, " 7.9 a tt u 9 t ' 10, " 7. a tt " 10 < < 11, . 7.10 a It a n < £ 12, " 5.10 u it " 12 < ' 13, " 7. a ti " 13 < ' 14, " 10.3 tt tt " 14 ' 1 15, " 6.8 u it " 15 < < 16, " 10.2 a it « 16 < ' 17, " 9.9 it tt 17 < ' 18, " 6. a it After Port am 1 Counter - 7.6 it ti Bridle Port and No. 1 Main Gun- deck _ 11. a ti All the other Ports 8. u tt After Port an< 1 Counter 12.6 Between Ports on Lower Gui a-deck the same. Length. Depth. Size of Spar-deck Ports 3.1 3.6 " Main Gun-deck do. - 3.6 2.11 Lower Gun-deck do. 3.2 2.11 25 386 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; © © 3d # © £a» • -I ■si*© .SP5 a* | as 1 1 «£ S3>*5 rH ' ffirtO I I 00 I I I I I I I I I I o 2 i III I IJ I II I I I I I IffO I I I I <£>o »-H •H T— 1 1—1 1-^ 1 £ "3E 1 i-i CO*©' CO CO* ©* ©' CO J "<* l>irf CO CO" CO l> >-H :Sc«s 1 tH ,— i 1— < r* 1— 1 s^l © *H OS CO" CO* CO* CO* Tji Ss2 d co TH o 0,"oOJ 3 Work, I Fur- Mess It, 1 1 00 CO CO coco* coco ©* rpent( ners' lire & Chei 1 ,-!© l>CO* * ' ©* | 1-H I— 1 ©"©' ©'©' CO* o£.S 3 a 1 • O 1 o £ a © (Of' rt^t ^ vnco th § g A,=B | ©' ©' ©co t-hCO* NHWH CO ==«■*{ r CO CO* CO -< ©Tj* OCO*©"'* TjJ I ©' ©' ©'©* 1—1 ©' 1-H ©'© T-"© vri jfg- ■ CO CO t; ° TJ^ csg ~ CO i- T-H SsS 2 CO . «* H i *=? . © ^o 00 T 1 t4 1 1 ' 00 o» 1 rt I I> .-•a ? •H 11| Ufa 2 " s Q CO CO 1-H ©' !> pal . * _ 00 ^4 S?«i»S CO 1—1 g*P & *=* 1 . .-" CO* .?do 1 i> ' » © I 1 t 1 1 CO* Galley and th purten Spar 1 fH O B eo* © CO* a © g5 eo B CO* 1—1 °2 c 2 c 1 i i I '©• ' ' 'CO* CO* f 3 ? 1 l> ©■ t^ ^§? 3 1 T* TT< C s rH* 1— 1 1 g — : 58 ' •jrajBAk. J° sltIo n^£) 89fr'S3 1 1 1 1 © y co CO c o 00 00 .5 . 1 00 ,_| © 1> © 11 CO CO & = 1 I CO* 1 a 1 .2 CO* ©* 00* ' © ' CO* \6 ejo. CO CO © ©' \6 09 09 Jw . m :Sl a O00>fl ,-1 CO GO i—i i—i <2c$ ^s§5 S5 B ©*©'©' ©* © eo" co ©',-H CO*©"©* eo" * 1 1 "^toco* TJ*Tj"vft VT5 CO© © ^H*©' 1 l> o o ©*Tj"©' ^4 OJi-"© 00©" ©*©'©* ©* CO H i i 1 1 1 • i i i 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i • 1 1 ■ ■ i i i 1 1 1 So H* < Q rG g few 3 o 388 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR ft, o o ■II 11 ^ ft* as £ *^ g «3 -91 § ■*■»• CD 3 "E 00 1 S| «J 5 H« ^« pS^ ■g oo© © i-- © © i-i CM THl>C0y3 «h._§3 c """! '"I *"1 '""1 i-J O-OTJ _; "* ifi O vO tO vri O id to totoi>j> ©c* HMO«fl 00© r-jCM^-* ed g a> ti* c"c? a* vrf rH i-ICM coco tC5 B »n iO 1» ■as S3 _ ct « & 1 1 1 1 1 1 I I I 1 1 CO* ' • ' co" w* d o ^ •^ -g •o^ ^ -? 1 CM 52 §3 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 I 1 1 1 1 CO gco 5 c o ©'©' © ai 5 « T* SJ ■§s 1 1-J CO* © ed fc; S3 1 1 1 1 1 1 I I 1 1 H 1 1 1 tX> ^ ^^ 6 o rt «* 02 d ^eo S. W '^ © 3»» id 32 & 1 1 1 1 1 I I 1 1 1 1 1 CO ' o CO* 00 | 1-1 ©' 1-* o | _w 4 o CM CM s s CO w" "' i ^ i «' . 1 1 1 ! 1 to 1 1 1 J> 1 i> i © ' GO | d (N* 2 © © Tj* s m xO (M "^ '!? £ a . ^ <=> , , ?i (?j l§ . 1 f 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 © ' ■ © o *§g edGO «j co" T-" © ©* M d 3 00 2 4 CO © ,_, 3 g, l-H 1-H CO* BO •s 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ' ' 1 ' COTi* t-* s 2 o 00 CO* ^h" 3 d cu 2 ^ ■° § § o< 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 £ 1 1> a| 3 . © © sfl d m On . 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 J 1 1 ■ III 1 1 • >>b , fctf <« !R .-1 cu Q £ a la • b^ ' f So Q ^ S CD *Z Q^^2 ^ en a> "S ^ i ^ Si o OR YOUJSG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 389 RECIPES 527.— FOR BLACKING- SHIP'S STANDING-RIGGING. To a half barrel of tar add 6 gallons of whiskey, 4 pounds of litharge, 4 pounds lamp-black, 2 buckets of boiling beef-pickle, or hot salt water out of the coppers, if the other cannot be had conveniently ; mix well together and apply immediately. 528.— FOR BLACKING GUNS. Six pound of beeswax mixed with one gallon of spirits of tur- pentine, one paper of lamp-black, mixed well together, for twenty 24 pounders. Note. — The beeswax to be cut fine, and dissolved in spirits of turpentine before being mixed with the lamp-black. 529.— FOR BLACKING HAMMOCK-CLOTHS, YARDS, AND BENDS. First scrub the cloth well with salt water, and while wet put on the first coat of priming, which should be well-ground paint, with one and-a-half pounds of beeswax added to each gallon of paint ; after the first coat is dry, put on second, mixed as follows, viz. : one pound lamp-black mixed for paint, one pound red lead, one gallon paint oil, half pound litharge, and half an ounce of indigo, boiled for half an hour, and stirred at intervals. Care should be taken that the composition boils that length of time. After it has cooled a little, add one pint of spirits of turpentine ; apply when warm, and it will dry in a short time with a beauti- ful gloss, and be perfectly limber. This last mixture has been found very suitable for yards, and also the bends ; but it must never be used too warm, particularly on canvass, in w T hich case it will lose its gloss. The priming, or first coat, is not put on cloths that have been blacked before. 390 THE KEDGE- ANCHOR; 530.— FOR MAKING LIQUID-BLACKING. Four ounces of ivory black, five or six table-spoonsful of mo- lasses, one and a-half ounce oil of vitriol, one and a-half ounce sweet oil, and six gills of vinegar. After mixing the ingredients together well and stirring them frequently, the blacking will be fit for use. 531.— FOR BLACKING GUNS. Six ounces of lamp-black, three pints of spirits of turpentine, and three ounces of litharge to be put in after the lamp-black and turpentine are well mixed ; add one ounce of umber to give it a gloss, and one gallon bright varnish. 532.— COMPOSITION FOR BLACKING GUNS. Six pounds of beeswax cut up fine, then add seven quarts spirits of turpentine ; let it stand until it is well dissolved, then add one pound lamp-black, and mix it well together. 533.— FOR MAKING BLACK-VARNISH, NO. I Two pounds of gum shellac, two pounds umber, one gallon linseed oil, and quarter pound of lamp-black ; boiled together for four hours over a slow fire. 534.— COMPOSITION FOR BLACKING HAMMOCK CLOTHS, NO. I. Twenty founds of beeswax, four pounds rosin, two gallons spirits of turpentine, one gallon paint oil, and six pound of lamp- black. Boil them well together, and keep it warm while put- ting on. Note. — To be primed first with lead-colored paint. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 391 535.— COMPOSITION FOR HAMMOCK CLOTHS, NO. II Forty-eight pounds of yellow ochre, eight pounds black paint, half pound soap, and three pints of fresh water. 536.— FOR HAMMOCK CLOTHS, NO. III. Half a pound of black paint, three pounds yellow ochre, half pound of soap, three-quarters of a gill of fresh water. 537.— FOR HAMMOCK CLOTHS, NO. IV. Eighty pounds black paint well ground, ten gallons linseed oil, ten pounds of beeswax, five pounds litharge, and one gallon of spirits of turpentine. For blacking bends, add two gallons of tar. 538.— FOR MAKING BLACK- VARNISH, NO. II. One gallon of the spirits of turpentine, one pound and four ounces of rosin, one pound and four ounces lamp-black, and one quart of linseed oil ; to be boiled on a slow fire for half-an-hour, then used or laid on when cold. 539.— SOLDER FOR COPPER. Nothing is necessary here, but good tough borax and brass, well mixed together with water, to the consistence of paste. 392 THE KEDGE-ANCHOR; 5 40.— SOLDER FOR LEAD. Take two parts of water-lead, and one part of tin ; its good- ness is tried by melting it, and pouring the size of a half dollar piece on a table ; then if it be good there will arise small, bright stars or beads on it. Apply rosin when you use it. 541.— TO MAKE THE BEST DRYING OIL. Mix one pound of litharge of gold to every six gallons of oil ; boil it over a slow fire, but not too much, least it prove too thick, and be unserviceable. 542.— FOR BLACK STAIN. Four ounces of copperas ; iron rust, or a few pieces of old iron noop ; one gallon of vinegar ; half pound lamp-black, and a small quantity of oak shavings. 543.— BLACKING GUNS, SHOT, &c. Coal tar alone, or mixed with a little salt water, is a good thing for blacking guns and shot. It should be laid on quite warm, and if the day be cold, a hot shot may with advantage be put into the guns to warm the metal, and make it take the black- ing better, due attention being previously paid to unloading. Lay the stuff on as thin as possible, with paint-brushes, using hot loggerheads or bolts to keep it warm. If well laid on, and wiped afterwards with an oil-cloth oc- casionally, this process will prevent rust, and preserve the good look of the guns for a length of time, without having recourse to washing with water. OR YOUNG SAILORS' ASSISTANT. 393 544.— FRENCH RECIPE FOR BLACKING GUNS, &c. To one gallon of vinegar, .put ten ounces of lamp-black, and one pound and a-half of clear sifted iron-rust, and mix them well together. Lay this on the guns after a good coat of black paint, and rub it occasionally with a soft oil-cloth. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. From the Sailor's Magazine. The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant : second edition, improved and enlarged with additional matter, illustrated' with seventy engravings, and tables, 8vo., pp. 420. By William Brady, Sailing Master, U. S. Navy; re- viewed by a Master Mariner. This is a work very much needed for the younger members of our profession, being the most complete thing of the kind that has ever been published. There is nothing of the smallest moment in use on board a man-of-war, or merchant- man, but it has illustrated in a plate, and its use or uses fully described. With singular faithfulness it details the whole minutiae of ship's duty, from the knot- ting of ropeyarns to splicing heavy cables and fitting standing rigging. It not only embraces all the particulars of the rigging work, but explains with equal clearness the various mechanical operations necessarily combined to fit out a first class ship. Here the novice may acquire a great deal by practising from the various plates and figures, while preparing for a nautical life ; besides, from its fullness on those subjects the most interesting to the young sailor, it will be calcu- lated to lead him to study his Manual, and thereby not entirely lose all relish for study, when first embarking in his ocean life, which has hitherto been so common and so disadvantageous to young men. There is no kind of duty on .ship-board but is here explained, and I conceive it the most valuable work not only for novices, but for every grade in our profession. There is a great deal of very useful information for all, however experienced they may be. Every kind of spar is described, with its relative proportions and use — the rules for which few men can carry in their minds. And it is quite important to know, in masting and sparring a ship, what are the principles which govern the usage of the day, even if we alter the proportions afterward to suit our own caprice or fancy. The author has clearly shown himself to be master of his business; he has described fully all the various parts of the ship's hull and spars — the different pieces of standing and running rigging, with the way to fit the one and how to cut and reeve the other. He teaches how to get the masts and yards on board, aloft, and rigged — he speaks of all with sufficient clearness, and at the same time does not unnecessarily multiply words. After rigging and sparring the ship, he bends the sails, after the most judicious plan in fitting out for sea, or when blown away or split in a storm — and after putting the ship to sea, as it were, he then, in a seamanlike manner, explains all the various evolutions through which a ship may be passed, and supposes almost every extremity to which a ship is liable, giving the modern, and I might add, profitably improved method of doing things : OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 395 for it is well known, that during the last 30 years there have been very many and equally great improvements in the method of rigging as well as working sea- going ships. I observe the author explains, in such places as have been deemed necessary, the different methods in use on board heavy-armed ships and merchantmen, which makes the book the more valuable to both classes of the service. Mr. Brady has some capital and useful remarks on the subject of the barometer, some of which I found entirely new 1o myself, although having used one for the last twenty- years. But I conceive that his tables are very valuable even to shipmasters. In- stead of lumbering up this book with what in fact belongs to an epitome of navi- gation, as has been the practice generally hitherto, he has confined himself, strictly speaking, to only those subjects which would naturally occur to one as coming under the head of seamanship — or, in other words, he has compiled literally " a Sailor's Assistant." I confidently assert, I have never sedh the same amount of really useful and practical information in the same space adapted to our profes- sion before. Here we find enumerated for the various classes of vessels, according to their tonnage, the requisite number of anchors, cables, guns, carriages, shot, &c., with their size, weight, and the comparative strength of the cables and rig- ging both chain and hemp : also a variety of most useful intelligence, and which must have been elicited only after considerable practical experiment — all of the most interesting as well as useful importance, not only to the novice, but the 01- ficer — the master — and I would even confidently add, that there is a great deal o f information contained in this work which would make it a valuable acquisition to every ship-owner's counting-room. There is nothing put on board the various classes of ships, but is described in the book, first to tell how it is made, and how it is rigged — how it is taken on board (if heavy) — its weight, and the amount allowed according to the length of the cruise. Nothing is omitted. I conceive that every ship-owner would find it an acquisition as a counting-house compan- ion, as well as a " Young Sailor's Assistant." His recipes, which I find at the termination of the book, are not without their value ; and although simple in themselves, yet not generally known. I cannot close without saying a few words in relation to the very judicious re- marks he has made under the head of "good order" (merchant service) and cleanliness. It is undeniable that temperance and cleanliness would add much to the health, comfort, and good order of a crew; but it must be allowed that com- paratively little has been done for the sailor — much more must be done before he will be made to realize the terrible effects .of intemperance and licentiousness upon both body and soul, for time and eternity. It is cheering to see that spirits have been banished from the list of small stores on board of respectable Amer- ican ships : and we can but hope that, ere long, through the influence of the efforts that are being made, especially for seamen, among several denominations of Christians in this city — by their building handsome churches on shore and afloat — splendid Homes which are made to them homes indeed when they resort tc them — by their donations of books and libraries adapted to their characters and profession — that a few years will see them a different and vastly improved class of men. Already do we begin to see the influence of the leaven that has been cast among them, which leads us to the conviction that there is a better 396 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. time coming for tAe sailor ; and we cannot but hope and trust that all ranks ol Christians will be diligent in prayer to God that " the abundance of the sea may- be speedily converted unto him." Finally, with the author I also think it entirely unnecessary for him to offer any apology in sending this work abroad to the pub- lic. If I may be allowed to offer an opinion on the merits of the composition or its style, I must say I have come to the conclusion, in the absence of any other guide but this book, being an utter stranger to the author, that he is — he must be — a seaman — a scholar — and a gentleman. I observe he professes, as his motto. " Hope for his anchor, and Heaven for his guide," and I fervently pray that nei- ther the one nor the other may ever fail him. From the Literary World. The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. By Wm. Brady, Sailing Master, U. S. N. Published by the Author. Nowadays, when all science, arts, and callings are delineated in books, and the pen is wielded by members of every profession, it is no marvel that an excellently planned work, upon all things pertaining to seamanship, should be presented to the public by a gentleman of the marline-spike. And albeit the author tells us that that instrument is to him more familiar than the pen, he has, nevertheless, shown himself quite expert with the latter. " The Kedge Anchor" (a happy title, at least to Jack) has already run through one edition, which, for a purely practical work, is the best evidence of its merits. The present edition is, in many respects, an improvement upon the former, con- taining additional matter, plates and tables. To a sailor this work is invalua- ble ; indeed, it is by far the best of the sort we ever remember to have seen. Gen- erally, works of this description are loosely and carelessly put together; to use a nautical phrase, they are by no means " ship-shape and Bristol fashion," and, in many cases, are mere servile copies, or abridgments of obsolete books on the same subject. The sailor-poet's (Falconer) Marine Dictionary, published many years ago, has been the source from which most of them have been compiled. But in seamanship, as in everything else, great improvements and changes have, from time to time, been effected, and Mr. Brady's volume contains them all. We cordially commend his book to all the purchasers of Bowditch's Navigation ; ana we will futhermore guaranty that he who masters both, will be fully qualified to conduct a vessel round the globe with unerring certainty — enter a harbor as un- exceptionably and gracefully as ever Brummel did a drawing-room, and cockbill his yards at a symmetrical angle. Not only to seamen, but to many landsmen, the " Kedge Anchor " cannot fail to be an acceptable volume. Its copious dictionary of sea terms, its excellent illustrations of nautical manoeuvres and the information imparted upon all things pertaining to the construction, rig, and appointment of the ships in our navy, make the book truly valuable. From the " gammoning" of a bowsprit, and the staying of a royal-mast, to the taking of a " bowline-in-the-bight," the student in tar will find all the information he can desire. The book is well got up, contains numerous well-executed cuts, and is alike OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 397 creditable to author and publisher. We specially commend it to the members of the Yacht Club, as a vade mecum for blue water. From the New York Journal of Commerce. The Kedge Anchor; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. By William Brady, S. M., U. S. N. This work, as its title imports, is designed as an assistant for the young Sailor, through the various branches of his arduous profession. It contains useful in- structions in every department of seamanship, with ample directions, which will impart to the young officer a great deal of valuable information in the duties of his profession, and enable him to act in the most judicious manner in many try ing emergencies. In addition to many suggestions, which will prove valuable to every grade of seamen, it contains more thorough descriptions of the innumerable articles belong ing to the various classes of vessels, than any other work ever published in this country; and is embellished with over seventy engravings, in illustration of the subjects treated of in its pages. The work is furnished with over one hundred pages of tables, which are valuable not only to the sea-faring man, but to all who are in any way interested in maritime pursuits. The entire work is contained in a volume of 420 pages, octavo, stereotype edition. It is printed on fine paper, and bound in handsome style. For sale by R. L. Shaw, No. 222 Water street, N. Y. From the True Sun. The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant. We have had for several days lying on our table a massive octavo volume of some 420 pages, of which we have given the title. The author of it is William Brady, S. M., U. S. N., and it is on sale at the Sailor's Home, and by most of the nautical stationers. The whole science of seamanship appears to be included in this fine volume, from the coiling of a rope to the dissection of a man-of-war and every nautical appendage thereof. No jot or tittle of a seaman's duty appears to have been overlooked ; everything is explained, and the most intricate things illustrated by engravings. The entire typographical execution and material of the volume are excellent ; we do not find the price attached to it ; but to the seaman — to the young seaman particularly — it must be invaluable. From the New York Courier & Enquirer. The Kedge Anchor ; or, Young Sailor's Assistant, <^c,