,i.^ % ^' ->. v^^ <^'>^■ .•-*■ .'J*^ rO- -- 0' ^ .-^^ '^^ 0^- \''-n ^ -. -- ^ ^^ •°^ »..'°V' .... •^ ', '-- ^° .«.'«■■ 'o, ■; •) N o - ,^' ■/"'c \.<^" .c,*^ <^^. •J' .0' /^ . ^^' '^ 0' y -/-^ .•■is <3 f^ . v » .(j ,.-^°^ ;,.^^ \ - .0- .v-^> .x^^' .Vx-. x^-^ V-^ x^^ v"^' ■^ '/ -^o. •x'^^' ^A o"^ s^-^ °^.. x^^% ■*b ■ .^^^ . x^ -/, .s' •^■^. - ' -*. .0 . %/• '•"o^ ■Jr. V- x^^- .^^V ><-.^^'' 'C' .<^' x^-^ V^:. A" , x^ •/. :i>'%. ,0- .."■■«, -o. .-O' ^xx' >P->-^ 0-.V'-^V\ » < c '•T «s^ '<'/>- ^\:" N^-'-^ '^*, % .\^^' % . .-\s.° 0^ ^"--^.^ .^\ ^^•\ ^ -'/ -^A r>X \> » %.^' .^''^■ ; .>:^'% ^.>#i^^^- ^:^ % '^v .\\' v-^' -^<- ' jO ^%. .v^^ 4, ■ ^ i%^- 40363 ^?^ ^^ APOLOGETIC. The only surviving officer of the steamship "California," on our first trip, Dr. A. B. Stout, whose feelings the Editing Connnittee would not wound for the world, in looking through the pages of this book, before it was bound, dis- covered, on page thirty, what he regards as an iniplied charge of desertion against him and the other officers and men. Nothing could have l)een further from the design. Those two para- graphs were written for the sole purpose of il- lustrating the influence of the gold excitement at the time. It is simply stated, of the offi- cers and crew, that they -'left" what every- l)ody knows would l)e, under ordinary circum- stances, (jood situations. That any one of them was dishonest, or left without an honorable discharge, was never intended ta be inti- mated. The lines constitute only an encomium, expressed with poetic license. hitrcfiliifitorji. OKIGIN. This book originated in the fraternal senti- ments of the Association whose name it bears, and a desire to place on permanent record some of the stirring events with which these men had been connected since their arrival in California; and thus leave something ot their individual impress on paper, as well as their united footprints on the pages ol' progress. They wished to have the rect)rd i-eady lor the twenty -fifth anniversary of their arrival, which would occur February 28, 1874. PREPARATION. Its preparation was entrusted to a Committee of the Association, who, supposing it would be a small woi-k of a hundred pages or so in pamphlet, undertook the laboi- as a vohni- tary service. At the time of their appointment, yo tj:s ixiRon cvroJi y. Fc'l)ru;irv 28, 1872, the_\ reqiie.sted. ami uieiii- hc'is promised to furnish, data pertaininji to the individuals. At the anniversary' of i87o, the Conunittee leported progress, but no ihita from any member. The promise to furnish individual history was renewed with much enthusiasm. But, after waitin,t R. were the first, and, so for as wr know, are still the only photographers who lia^e pro\icled, for the unspeakahle convenience ol' tlieir patrons, an ilenitin-. You step from the sidewalk through a door, take a fineh cushioned seat, and, in less tluxn half a minute, you are ushered into the third or fourth story galler_\. amid the most profuse and gorgeous display of pictures, Irom locket -size to full life, and so life-like, that you almost fear to speak, lest they hear you. But. after saying to the reader that the illustrations of this work are fi'uni this house, we sundy need say no more of tlie house of Bk.\i>ley .s: RuLOKsox. We have not referred to these l>usiness hou.-ies. because of their connection with this work, hut because the_\' are leading representa- tive houses, each in its class, and to show that with such houses, California need fear no comparison with the best in the world. There are also in other departments of pro- XOTKS IXTliODLCTony. VU gress, representative licjiises ol" which it wuiild uflbrd us much jileasure to spciik, wvyv not these notes already too long. But we must stop to call attention to unother, and by some, supposed to l)e the leading interest of the State at a,n early day. THK NATIVK WINK I NTKUKST. {IS represented In- Kohmor & Fuohmng, in the location they have occupied f'oi' twenty vears. in Montgoraery Rlo(d\. 'I'iiey liegan in 18-")4. wlien they brought iVom their vineyard into their cellar two casks of wine, less than eiglity gallons in all. They have prosecut- ed the business; of raising grapes, nudging and ])\nv,hasing wnnc, until their business readies nearly i'\i^y\ pronunent town in both America and Europe. They set imt with g:uaranteeing all their wines " al)soUitely pure," and have ever made their guaranty siood. Hence, from all great exhibitions thev have universally returned decorated with diplonnis and medals of meiit, of the Hrst rii;irv 2Sili, 1^74. It '?, Chaptek I. STEAM NAVIGATJOX IX THE PACIFIC. IKE the constant revolution of the earth, giving us continual variet}' of light and shade, and fruit and flower, and all we have that makes time a hlessing or life a J03', Steam Navigation has become so common, that we drink the cup of pleasure to the fill, and take no note of its source. How few that have, during the past lew months, glided along the coast among the " Thousand Islands," and pulled up thence the flavored finny tribes; or traced the ever- changing river course through ' the " Highlands '" of the Hudson, the valleys of the " Penob- FIE fir STEAMSHll' FIoyEEBS. scot," the gorges of the " Yellowstone." or the Columbian •■ Dulles." inhaling tiie .-^ott breeze of sununer as it mingles with the notes of the morning lurk, or nightingale ; or swe[)t around the curves and climbed the iiji- grade to where the trout- brook alfords lichest piscatoi-v ])astime ; oi' sped across ri\ei'. |ilain. and moinitain top from Ocean to Ocean in a single week, for purposes of commerce, health or pleasure — how feir. how vtrij few. ha\e reflected that tor nine- tenths of all thej leap, ol' pleasure or of pj'ofit. thev are indebted, directly and indirecth. to the u.se of steam. Steam alone allows the artizan and the man of commerce, the scientist and the professional, to visit the glaciers of the Alps and the Gey- sers of the Pacific, tlie Pyramids of Egjpt and the matchless Yosemite of California ; because Avithout steam they could not spare tlie time the travel would consume. Steam so undei'lies and is so interwoven \vith every department of commerce, everywhere shortening time and diminishing space, and reducing expenses, that it enhances the pleasure and the profit of every class, and every indi- FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. vidual who buys or sells or eats or drinks or wears the products of either earth or industry. Phoenicia, the mother of commerce, and the land whence every ancient European nation de- rived the use of alphabetical characters and the science of mnnbers or arithmetic, and M-hioh obtained the zenith of commercial pros- perity in tlie known world 800 years before the Christian era. and who stands at the head of commercial nations of her day, not only had no knowledge of steam, hut had no ship which could safely venture out i>f sight of land. Look at her noblest '•mercantile marine" — the largest of them smaller in size, and im- measurably less .//<"''/, than the little pilot boats that now ply about the mouths of our har- bors — creeping cautiously along the .4)0res of their coast, making a tri|i ol' a few hundred miles once in twelve or eighteen months; and comjiare with a stea,m leviathan of the ))re.sent day, in the maw of which you might stow a dozen Phoenician sliips of the largest class. a,)id interfere but slightly with the passengers or the cargo, and you have a slight idea of mari- time commercial progress. 4 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEES. We think ourselves inventors in steam, and yet the 2^oicer of steam was known at a very early day, far back in ancient times. Hero, of Alexandria, in the time of Ptolemy Pliiladelphus, 300 years before Christ, invented a machine for the pi'opulsion of bodies by steam — and even long centuries before his day Egyptian priests were familiar with the power of this element, and liad apparatus by which they produced sounds and motions by steam from within figures representing the human form, by which they wrought upon the super- stitions of the people and confirmed their pretended miracles. They, however, never applied it to any useful purpose. Nor did even the Alexandrian carry his far enough to make it self-perpetuating. Eighteen hundred years after the experiment of Hero, Blasco de Garay, an enterprising and ingenious Spanish soa captain, on the 17th of June, l-)43, exhibited to his sovereign, Charles v., at Barcelona, a steam-engine Avhich he had constructed, and l)y which he asserted that "ships and vessels of the lai'gest size could be propelled even in a calm, without the aid FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. of sails or oars," an assertion which he then and there proceeded to verify ; actually pro- pelling. I)v means of circular wheels at the sides, not indike our steamei's of the present dav. the ship ''Trinity," Capt. Peter de Scarza, of ••tw(j hundred tons." at the rate of three miles an hour. But modest and reticent, he kept his s(>cret to himself, and the utility of Ills invention died with him — and. though the real iiir<-iif<>i\ he never wore the croirninf/ honor. It missed ///s head, and finally and perma- nently rested on that of Jonathan Hulls, two hundred years afterward. Perhaps, in reference to no otlier impoi'tant event has the question been so often raised : •' Why was the development of steam left to slumber so long after its power was discovered, and even ibr hundreds of years after its ap- plication to the ])ropulsion of machinery was tried and known ? " The only rnrional answer to this inf[uirv is that •'■He who rides upon the storm Anil nianaifes the sea8, did with tins as with many other blessings. 6 FIRST STEAyrSHIP PIONEERS. withheld it. while Paganism would have prosti- tuted it to the propagation and establishment of error in doctrine, and dark deeds of evil in practice ; and only when it could or ironld, bv man. be utilized for the good of the race and the honor of the Giver, did he draw the curtain and let the light " flow all abroad." Looking at the patent ftxcts of history, per- taining to all the great events of time — "Wlio dare think that Providcnt-e is slow. Because He takes the privilege to choose His own appointed time when He will send His blessings down ? "' And then, applying the same principles to this long dela^'ed but boundless boon to man, who will }iot say : " This is thy work. Almightj- Providence, AVhose power, beyond tiie reach of human thought, i?evolves the orbs of empire : bids them sink Deep in the shoreless sea of thy designs, Or rise majestic o'er a wondering world." And in this there is no "cant" — no fanati- cism. The whole historic period has been a succession of demonstrations of its truth, inti- mately connected with tauiiible, rational fticts. Development ol' the arts and sciences, and their subjection to human weal, has always, and exactly, kept pace with the extension of political freedom and the dift'usion of general intelligence. Yet these denouments of useful inventions liave often been regarded, even In' the wi.sest and best of men, with the most serious apprehension. As the rising sun of Ocean Steaui Navigation was climbing the Eastern sky, it suggested to the thoughtful the stauti.i.vg i'K(n'OSiTiON that it would necessarily and speedily connect itself, inseparably, with the fortunes of Empire. Savants stood aghast — some doubted, some feared, and all ejaculated "God forbid !" Even as late as 1839 Professor Sillinien — a name for many j^ears immovably fixed on the topmost round of the ladder of scientific fame — in the American Jon rind of Science, speaking upon this very point, said : " What will become of a steamship, upon the Avide ocean, without masts, in case the boiler bursts, the fuel is exhausted, the ma- chinery breaks down, or any one of the many FIJR.ST STIUMSMIF rioSF.Kh'S. at'cideiits. so likelv to occur. A\i\\\ overtake her?" iSiiftice it to .say. that this great iiuui lived to see his questions all ])ractically answered, and to declare, not (jnly that steamships were a succe.s.s, but that steam iKiritx were iin ab- solute necessity to all those nations who would protect their owji borders, .secure the freedom of the seas, or successfully" take any part in maritime belligerence. And so late as 1840 the Emperor of all the Eus.sias openly opposed the general intro- duction of steam, either in national or private enterprises. Yet it was in this same year of 1840 that TKK STKAM X-WKiATlOX UK TUK PaCHIC Avas commenced, by a coin])aiiy in England, who dispatched two steamers, the "Peru" and the "Chili." each of 700 tons, under command of Capt. William AVheelwright. \ia the Straits of Magellan — which they pa.ssed, a distance of about 300 miles, in 30 hours — ■ to the western coast of South America, where they made the port of Talcahuana, in 55 da3s from England. No company ever planned a nobler entei'prise ; none ever entered a vaster FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEES. field, and few have had a more auspicious dawn. Their plans contemplated the opening of com- munication and trade between England and the western coast of America, as far north as Panama — which they designed to connect with Chagres, on the Atlantic, by means of a sliip canal cicross the Isthmus of Darien — thence west to Asia, including the commerce of China, Japan and the Indias, making way -stations at the Gallipagos Islands, the Sandwicli Islands and the Island of Utaheite. Tlw coast of America, north of Paiianm, ■ivas )iot considered worth cidtivatiny. Upon the arrival of the steamers the go\'- ernments of ChiH and Peru were intensely excited. Their moi'ning sun liad risen — the glorious day of commercial supremacy had commenced. They saw themselves, in the early future, the great half-way house, in the path of empire the principal depot, for the exchange and transfer of the commerce of the world. Henceforth their sun would never set — the day of their increasing greatness have no end. in FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. And sureh^ the guai'tuity of their hopes was stronger than most calculations rest upon. No inteUigent man can wonder at, or blame them for their sanguine expectations, their ex- hilerating joy. But when the time came to commence the •'trips,'" ito coal had arrived, and Capt. Wheel- wright tbund himself crippled, fettered, thained. For some reason, not \et satisfactorily explain- ed, the company had neglected to send foiward coal, without whi(^h not another step could he taken. The\' had planned and started a maa- nificent enterprise, one which, if carried out, would have added a sparkling jewel to the most brilliant diadem oi' earth. But whether content with having made the plan, or doubting the possibility of its successful execution, or dreading the labor and responsi- bilities it would involve, or from some other cause, they seemed to shrink, and retire to a most miserable and disgraceful inactivity, leav- ing their faithful servant, the noble seaman, who had so gloriously inaugurated their enter- prise, to shift for himself as best he could. Like the brave Briton that he was, he took FIE ST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. 11 off his coat, went into the mountains, and though all unskilled in the work, prospected for, found, and dug coal with which to heat his boilers and again take his ships to sea. This however was of little avail when deserted by his company. Thus virtually failed the first gi-eat eftbrt to establish the steam navigation of the Pacific, a work then promising^ and since developing the most extensive, most magnificent, most glorious maritime commercial triumph the world has ever seen. Tile next, and the successful, projector of steam commerce in the Pacific was the "P.\ciFic Mail Steamship Company," of the city of New- York. It was fit that the commercial metropolis of America should lead the van in this great \vrok ; tor, on her crowded whar\'^s an excited multitude of unbelieving scofters had once gath- ered to witness "the bursting of the bubble" — the fatal failure of Fulton's fanatical fancy — ^a fleet flying fire-ship. But amid the scoffs and sneers and bewilderhig imprecations of that excited populace, the valves, obedient to the 12 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. lever, moved — the steam, braced against the piston head, moved the rod — the wheels re- volved — the " Clermont " moved slowly from the dock. As it moved, the dei'isive sneers gave way to expressions of doubt, and these to an indescribable blankness of countenance and absence of all sound — a silence which, like Egypt's darkness, might be felt. Then a shrug of the shoulders and the subdued •' She (foes go !"' •• Shell stoj) when she turns up stream!" " Yes, she sfn7-tK but she'll never make Albany nor half of it ! " " There, I declare, she does stem the current!" "She makes it I" •'HiuraJi! Hurrah ! '' and then the welkin rang again with deafening shouts and rolling cheers. Success was achieved. America, with little beside her warm blood and wild enthusiasm, snatched the prize from the schools, philoso- phers, wisdom and wealth of Europe, and fairly launched herself in a sea of steam. Europe attempted to monopolize the enter- prise — claim for her sons all the glory, and reap the golden harvest. But while she was wasting her time in the former, and securing little of the latter, America went forward ; and. FIRST STEAMSHIf PIONJiEBlb'. V6 at the end of the first twenty-five years, had more steam vessels xiinning on one of her rivei's, the Mississippi, than were on all the waters under the control of the British crown, and more than three times as many as were owned on all the continent of Europe. And what shall we say of this young oft- shoot of British greatness now ? Go far up toward the open sea of the Nortli Pole, and the aftVighted Walrus and the I'olar Bear, climbing over vast crags of ice, and diving dee]> into the blue sea, both testify their alarm at the approach oi' an American steamsliip. do to the farthest isles of the sea, and you find, the wild man of the woods, and his Aounger brother, the orang-outang, hastening to the mountains to esc^ape the approaching American fire-ship, ('limb to the highest peak of earth, and with your telescope scan the entire field of one -half the world of waters — they are all alive with these artificial monsters of the deep, paddling and puffing and smoking, as they haste to every port where man may wish to set liis foot, or commerce open trade. Or, better still, post yourself on an elevated 14 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. crag of our lunar satellite, - and, . as the. earth revolves and presents every portion of her surface, look at the myriad of "fire -flies." like the hosts of nocturnal glow-worms, flitting in every direction, and listen to the continuous roar of paddles beating, steam escaping, whistles screaming — actually adding a new sight and a new sound to the previous elements of our planetary system — -and you have a faint idea of the results of American enterprise in steam navigation. If the great Latin poet has versified the tale of mythologic craftsmen, and Cj'clopean forges, in the serAdce of Vulcan, to whose shops Lemnos, and Lipari, and -^tna, are only the chimneys, where the armor of the gods was made, steam has shown how tools, more efficient than the thunderbolts of Jove, the helmet of Pluto, or the trident of Neptune, are made and used. We have not only forged tools more than a match for the thunderbolts of Jove, but our philosopher has drawn his from the skies, and made them our ver^' harmless instruments of pleasure and profit. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. 15 If we have not turned axles as exact as those on which the chariot wheels of Mars revolved, we have made them that far exceed his in strength, speed and durabiUty- If we Iiave not re -scaled with gold the writh- ing serpent on the shield of Pallas, we have carved, and gilded, and placed on sea and land, palaces which far outvie the gilded car\'- ing on that fabled armor. Bv the use of steam we have redoubled all the efficienc}' and all the splendor of Mytho- logic Vulcan in shop, and tools, and appliances, and are to-day using sledge-hammers an hundredfold heavier than ever graced his shops, and have constructed a broad axe ^vith which to how out Empire in every approachable spot of earth. We have thus multiplied the means of inter- national communication, strengthened the bonds of national amity, and added to our ability to see and appreciate the infinite superiority of a Christian civilization over the most suc- cessful strides of Pagan and Barbaric progress. By this element we have provided for the defense of our thousands of miles of sea coast, 16 FIEST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. indented by numberless inlets, baj's, estuaries, coves, and gulfs, on two sides of a continent, which, without steam, must remain entii'ely at the niercv of whatever aggression, rapine and pirsic}- might be projected by those who are hostile to oiu' progress or co\et our country and our clime. We had done much, but were far from safe, or success in war or in commerce, until we filled the Pacific with steam. This was undertaken by the Pacific Mail Steamship Companv. and they have so executed their task, that wherever we look or turn, on either shore, or in the islands of mid Pacific, we ma^- almost exclaim : "Which way I fly is steam — M.vself am steam!" The beginning, and the progress, and the triumph, of the Pacific Mail Steamship Com- pany-, in establishing steam navigation in the Pacific, will be the subject of the next chapter. Chapter IL PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. " O, all-prepariug Providence Divine ! In tliy large book what secrets are euroll'd ! What sundry helps doth thy great power assign, To proj) the course which thou intend'st to hold ! What mortal sense is able to define Thy mysteries, thy counsels manifold ! Is it thy wisdom straugelj' that extends Obscure proceedings to apparent ends?" Dkaytox. HE discovery of gold in California was not the result of searcli, arrange- ment, calculation, or effort, oil the part of man. So far as the discoverer was con- cerned, it was the merest chance — a pure accident. But of the well arranged, though often slowly developed, plans of a Supreme Be- ing, who overrules all things for good, it does not become us to speak without reverence. That the wisest and .best of men see, in all the 18 FIRST .'STEAMSHIP PIOlsfEEES. march of improvement, the steady steps toward a well-defined object of the great "armj^ of occupation," all directed h\ an Omniscient mind, is an interesting fact. That otliers, equally ^vise in other things, do not thus see, is no evidence that the steps are not ordered, any more than the inability of some to appreciate beauty in a work of art is evidence that it is not really beautiful. So, if the successive steps in the develop- ment of our Pacific coast, while it is certain that these steps, especially the i)rimal ones, had no connection with each other, it is also sure that they were so arranged as each to connect with and supplement the other, until, like the well constructed chronometer, the whole now moves in harmony and marks the steady progress of the age. It has been said, and is extensively believed, that the discovery of gold led to the estab- lishment of the Pacific Mail Steamship Com- pany ; and it is little wonder that such error should obtain credence, when we consider that so little record of the stupendous enterprise has been given to the world. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 19 Within the last decade several voluminous histories of the United States, by eminent scholars and authors, have been given to the public, professing to "mirror forth" every im- portant event in our national history doAvn to 1865, and yet have not said one word about the commercial and naval steam marine of the Pacific. Next to nothing has been put in permanent form, oi' an accessiljle shape, on this subject. To re -state some facts already- known, and to collect and crystalize for general use others — which are only recorded in the ephemeral press of the day, or still retained in the bi'ain of tlwse who have learned them — pertaining to the Pacific Mail Steamship Company, is the object of this chapter. This company was organized, and its con- tract with the government for its service on the western coast of the continent was made, and the construction of its three pioneer steamers nearly completed, and two of them had been dispatched on their long trip to their distant service, before the discovery of gold in California was known h\ either the "ov- 20 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. ernment or the company. The original pro- jector of a line of steamers on the west coast of North America is no better known than the originator of a trans - continental railroad. Many men talked of it, after it was sug- gested ; but who was the suggester, is already one of the many things so difficult of deter- mination that there is little hope of its final settlement. Men now claim the original idea, who ac- tually persisted in scouting and deriding the project for years after it began to be discussed. The fact that Sloo's line of steamers to New Orleans and Chagres connected with the Pacific Mail line is patent to all. In 1845 J. M. Shively, a shrewd Massachu- setts Yankee, who had previously made his way to Astoria, Oregon, and had been some time serving the government there as Post- master, went to Washington ; and while there conferring with the Post-office Department, had conversation with the officials on the subject of a line of steamers from Panama to Astoria, Oregon, touching at several Mexican ports. Who originated the idea, or how far it was FTEST STEAMSHIP PIOKEERS'. 21 favorably entertained in Washington, events alone furnish ground for conjecture. The governments of Great Britain and the United States were approaching an issue on the North-western Boundary question. Our government naturally desired to add to the population of Oregon as rapidly as possible, with a view to meeting the great event by force, if need l^e. This might have led to the ii-ifili for a line of steamers to aid in the work ; but, that tlie jiroject was not seriously entertained, is evident from the fact that later in the year, 1S4-'), the President, James K. Polk, toolv ver\- decided ground in Ihvor of increasing facilities for reaching Oregon, and that his plans did not include this line of steamers. His plan was to encourage the emigxation of large colonies of Scandinavians from North- ern Europe direct to Chagres, Avhence they were to Ije taken in boats, sent out by oiu* government, up the Chagres river to the head of navigation, thence by pack animals to Pan- ama, and from there by ships to Oregon. In the maturity of this plan he was gi-eatly 22 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIOKEERS. assisted by Mr. J. M. Woodward, of New York, who had large interests in the com- merce of the Baltic Sea, and was doins much in the way of bringing to America emi- grants from Prussia and Sweden and Denmark and Norway, and whose aid and counsel the President sought and obtained, by inviting him to his house, and there employing him for a succession of months in making the investi- gations and preparing the details. In fact. Mr. Woodward wrought out the whole plan, and presented it complete, which the President laid liefore Congress as his own, and urged that body to make the necessary appropria- tions with the least possible delay. This PROJECT WAS AB.ANDOXED, however, for the very good rea-son that the two governments came to an amicable understanding upon the threat- ening cpiestion, thus averting the necessity- for a hasty increa,se of the population of Oregon. It is. however, recorded, to the great dis- credit of the administration, that after obtain- ing the services of Mr. Woodward for so long a time, he was, without apology, dismissed, and allowed to return to his owia pursuit, not FIB ST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 23 even receiving a " thank you, sir," for hi;? large outlay of time and toil and money. He had, however, come to entertain the idea tliat a line of steamers on the Pacific coast of our possessions was needed and could he made to jjay. In this opinion lie was joined bj- several gentlemen of means and enterprise, and commercial experience, who imited with him in initiatory steps to secure, by a private company, what the government did not deem worthy of its attention. E. K. Collins was before Congress with a Ijill for government aid to establish a line of Mail Steamers from New York to Liverpool ; Mr. Sloo with one for a line from New York, via Havana, to New Orleans ; and Mr. Woodwai'd with one from Panama up the coast of the Piicific. Sloo remodeled his so as to reach Chagres, Avith the purpose to connect with Woodward's at the Isthmus. On the last day of the session all three of these bills were passed in a batch ; but, by some act or neglect of the En- grossing Clerk, Mr. Woodward was not named in the bill. Wherefore the Secretary- of the 24 FIRST STEAM.S'HIP FIOXEEHS. Navy, Mason, decided to advertif^e for bids for carrying- the mails semi - monthly between Panama and Astoria, Oregon, caUing at Realejo in Central America, and at Acapnlco, Maz- atlan and Monterey in Mexico. At this time California had not been ac- quired by the United States. San Francisco had not been born, and " Yerba Buena," the site of the present Metropolis of the Pacific, was too insignificant to attriu-t atteJition. Its only business was to entertain some jolly "' skipper " once or twice a yeai-, while he loaded his vessel with hides, and luxuri- ated himself upon such sources of human gratification as were iUicessible. and its onl}- prospects a down-grade to deeper degradation. There were only three bids. Mr. Wood- ward ottered to do the service for ten years, in side -wheel steamers, at $300,000 per annum. One of his associates, by previous arrange- ment, proposed to do the work in propellers at $150,000 per annum, and a speculator named Arnold Harris bid $199,000 per annum. This Harris had no idea of anything else than to obtain and sell a contract. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. As the $150,000 bid was lowest, the con- tract was awarded to Woodward's associate, but it was saddled with conditions not named in the advertisement, and wholly impractica- ble, whereupon the award was declined, and as Harris was the next lowest bidder the contract was then awarded to hiui. He hud, however, given bonds to Woodward, before AVoodward's associate withdrew, that if the bid was withdrawn, and the contract, in consequence thereof, should be awarded to him, Harris, he would immediately assign the same to Wood- ward. But upon obtaining the contract he declined to fulfill the engagement, and his bond proved totally worthless, which left Wood- ward again with no i-eward for his arduous and long continued toil. Little was known of the proposed route, the resources of the countries to be visited, or the prospects of a growing commerce. Hence the eiibrts of Har- ris to sell his contract in New York and elsewhere proved, for several months, abortive. Eventually, through the influence of General Armstrong, a relative of Harris, and at that time United States Consul at Liverpool, Mr. W. 26" FIBST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. H. Aspinwall. of New York, was induced to think of the matter, and finally to accept the propositions of Hai'ris to assign to him tlie contract. The Secretarv of the Navy, in transferring the contract to Mr. Aspimvall and his asso- ciates* entirely ignored Mr. Woodward, although he produced the contract of Harris to assign to him, and urged, in every conceiva1)le way, the justness of his claim. Nor did he yield his point until he was l)eateu in a long and expensive series of litigations. The contract finally assumed l»y tlie Pacific Mail Steamship Company, called lor the con- struction of three side -wheel steamers, all of which were to be of such (lural)le material and so strongly built, tliat in case the gov- * The Pacific Mail Steamship Company was incor- porated April 12, 1848. Gardiner Howlaiul, Henry C'hauncy and William H. Aspinwall, being its corpo- rators, and Mr. Aspinwall being electe I)e needed for ' several years. The}' exi)ected to carry few pas.sengers, and hence provisions for the crowds that overtook them in the ver\- out^t of the enterpi-ise. were by no means adequate ; and the com- panv had to l)ear a vast amoinrt of censure for a state of things which no human wisdom could fore.see, no earthl}- siigacity anticipate. The tlu'ee steamers were named, respectively, "California." "Oregon.'" and "Panama. " were nearlv of the same size, and built as much 28 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIOKEERS. alike as the nicest sense of harmony could desire. But before their first vessel was ready to sail, California had become a part of the United States territory, the town of San Francisco had been named, its plat had been surveyed, and it was assuming an importance, in the eye of the government, second only to "Astoria'' in Oregon. Hence the contract was so modified as to require the transportation of the United States mails twice a month, between Panama and Astoria, via the above-named Central Ameri- can and Mexican ports, touching at "Yerlja Buena, noAv called San Francisco, in Cali- fornia. " According to the terms of the contract, the first of the three steamers was to leave New York in October, 1848, and, promjjt in the fulfillment of the engagement, the "California, " the true pioneer, was dispatched on the sixth da}' of the month, at high meridian, under the command of Captain Cleaveland Forbes, as noble and gallant a seaman as ever trod a quarter-deck or held a quadrant to the FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 29 sun, assisted bv an efficient corps of officers and men, a catalogue of whose names appear elsewhere in this work. She made the run via Rio Janeiro and the Straits of Magellan to Valparaiso, and thence to Panama. From Panama up the coast no steamer had ever traveled ; and hence, to feel the way to San Francisco occupied twenty -eight days. Further than this she did not go. Gold had been discovered, and a vessel once in the harl:)or must lie there or work her way out without hands. In fact the new order of things inaugurated by the gold, neutralized the power of the government, nullified con- tracts and produced derangement and distraction to such a degree, that the actual temiinus of the line remained practically at San Francisco for all time to come. Captain Forbks' health so entireh- failed him that at Valparaiso he was compelled to yield the connnand of the ship, and take the place of a passenger. Captain John Marshall, a seaman of expe- rience, being in port, was, by the agents of 30 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. the company, placed in command, and con- ducted the ship to San Francisco, where, after seeing her anchored in the harbor, he left and hastened to the mines, without making any provisions for even one man to remain on board and care for her. And he was followed by every officer save one, and by exQYj one of the crew. The thix'd assistant engineer, Frederick Fog- gin, could not be tempted with gold to lie unfiiithful to his employers. He alone, "the noblest Roman of them all," remained on board, and cared for the shijj, until she was ready to commence her regular trips to and from Panama; when the company rewarded bis fidelity by making him Chief Engineer, in which position he retained their entire confidence until he chose to leave and engage in other pursuits. '•Faithful found amoug the faithless, faithful only he: Among innumerable false — unmoved, Unshaken, unseduced, xuitciTified. His loj-altj- he kept, his trust, his zeal; Nor number, nor example, with him wrought To swerve from truth, or change his constant miud Thoui^h left alone."' FIRST STEAMS'HIP PIONEEES. 31 In November of 18-18, the "' Oregon," the second of the Hne, left New York, and mak- ing a splendid run, reached San Francisco April 1st, 1819, just one month and one da\- after the " California. " In December the "Panama," the third and last of the three ships originally contracted for, sailed from New York, and after a pros- perous voyage entered the harbor of San Francisco, about one month after the "Oregon," and like both her predecessors, ci'owded to her utmost capacity with an excited mass of surging, seething, human enthusiasm, moved by a single object — to "get rich and go home" in the shortest possible time. Thenceforward the career of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company was onward and upward. Every ship -yard at the American metropo- lis was taxed to its utmost to build additional steamers with which to meet the daily in- creasing demand. Never before in the world's history was there such excitement, such uncontrollable enthusiasm, such fierce and irresistible deter- FIR.ST STEAMSHIP PIONEEES. mination to reach a certain distant portion of the globe, as now urged this company to furnish the means of conveyance to California. Never before did a company respond with such energy and such success. Like full fledged to wis. from the yard at dawn of day, new steamships, of enlarged cajjacity and improved speed, and superior elegance, sprang from the busy ship- yards into the wharves, and thence, loaded to the guards with living human freight, sped their wav to the far oil' Pacific. During the first ten years this company produced more and better new ships, and candied more freight and passengers, with less loss of vessels and of life, than an^' other the world has ever seen. It has within the twenty -five years of its existence owned, controlled and operated in the waters of the Pacific, more than forty steamers of all classes, from the oOO ton coaster to the gilded leviathan of 4,000 tons, breasting every class of storm, and defying the most tumultuous sea. AVith these thev have inaug- urated a new system of trade, and augmented FIE.^T .STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 33 commerce with nearly every port ol" the iwlauds aiid both shores of tl.e Pacific. They have also lost fourteen large steamers by wreck and by fire, of an aggregate value, at the time the losses occurred, of more than three and a half millions of dollars. This compan}- has opened trade and extend- ed commerce with all the prominent islands of the Pacific, and on both her coasts ; and is now carrying between the most distant ports of the earth, the richest and rarest productions of every clime, and every branch of industrj''. To them belongs the honor of inaugurating the most extensive steamship lines the world has ever seen ; and to them we hope may accrue rich and lasting finan- cial rewards. Chapter III. yj;]V YO]!K TO CHAOUKS PKH ^'STKAMKli '^FALCON." li K cominc'iiccineiit of u ^loat eiiter- l>iise is iisiiallv so lull of present interest, anil makes siieli larire drafts u]K)n cvcrv eneriiy ior aeti\e serviee, that there is little tliouglit (n- time given to the recurdiiiii' of passiiiir events. Jlence. m alter vears, when tliose who would profit by the ti-aiispirings. coidd they know them, search for the rnitiatory faefs and surround- ings, they cainiot find them. Kveryhody was in too much of a hurry to record them. Fortunately for the subject of tliis chapter the circumstances were so neM'. the events so striking, and the Avhole scene so impressive, that numbers who passed through tliem. and are now living, recollect even the minutest FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 35 details, with all the vividness of yesterday's transactions, thougli a quarter of a century has since elapsed. Some there were wlio made hasty notes of fiicts and impressions, in the interims of Walter Colton's J^nnjulnrn — ■ ' seasickness " — and have preserved them ; though many, and we might perhaps say those who wrote »*o.sy and heM, lost their journals in the great fires that devastated San Francisco within the first few year's after their arrival, or ha\'e allowed them in some other wtiy to puss, irrecoverably, beyond their reach. To those yet extant, and to the vivid recol- lections oi" some who did not write, we are indebted for whatever of actunl or circum- stantial interest this chapter max jiossess. The ])rcceding chapter has told us of the organization, the elforts and the successes ol' the Pacific Mail Steamship ('ompauy. Jhit that compa.ny had nothing to do witli carrying the uuiils from New York to Panama. This work was undertaken b\- tiie Atlantic Steamship Company, who engaged to carry the mails t'roni New Yoi'k, Charleston. S. C., Savan- 36 FIE ST STEAMSHIP PIOJNEEHS. nail, Ga., Havana, Cuba, and New Orleans^ La., to and across the Isthmus. The Pacific Mail Company had dispatched their pioneer steamer "California," in October of 1848, via the Straits of Magellan, with the design of reaching Panama by the 5th of Jan- uary, 1849. With a view of connecting with the "Cali- fornia," the Atlantic Company placed the "Falcon" in commission, and advertised her to sail on the 20th December. But, "lest there might be unexpected delays," it was ordered that slie "sail December 1st." The real cause of this change was a rumor, which had gained credence in a few minds, that gold had been discovered in California. But this was not sufficiently confirmed to counter- balance the twenty daj-s' less time in which to prepare ; and the number of through pas- sengers was, consequently^, quite limited, though there was a large numlier ibr Havana and New Orleans. This rumor of gold discovery was of so little force that probably not half a dozen of the entire number of passengers had ever heard FIE ST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. §7 it, and not one had any faith in it. Hence it is due to the First Steamship Pioneers to sav that they did not start for California for the purpose of digging gold,- for the}' knew nothing of it when they sailed. When they had been three days at sea the gold discov- ery was otficially published at Washington. But these 2)as!f.. took pilot for Charleston, rode up the beautiful bay. smooth as a plate of glass, and at 4 p. m., dropped anchor about five hundred yards from the wharf The weather warm for Northerners. Everybody hastened ashore, under strict warning to be on Ijoard before 12 midnight. During these eight houi's, several young men — not those named above — " lewd fellows of the baser sort," visited the theater, where the combined inlliience of whisky and the play so i=77?-S7' STEAMSHIP PIONEEHS. 45 exliilerated them that they became rude and boisterous ; for which they were rewarded by a raooiiHght walk, conducted by a "'star," to the rejiion of the calaboose, from entrance to Avhich the}', however, escaped, liy the influence of some " yellow- boys "' and a pledpre to leave town immediately. One of the ])arty was John Ross, Jr., son of the relel)rated Clierokee Chief, who. with his two daughters and this wild son. was now returning to bis distant home, whence lie started in August last, to bring bis children, who have l,)een completing their educational course, at some of the best schools in New England. Young Koss, while in the theater, became (juite intoxi- cated and savage, drawing and Hourishing a lar^e bowie-knife, threatening dire ^-engeance upon all who should presume to oppose any of his ideas of projiriety. Another was a j-oung Creole, bound to New Orleans. He, in his delirium, threw his hat. from the gallerv. upon the stage, for which he was summariW marched oflf to the "lock-up;" but upon his plea that he was ''only a passenger," and would be glad to get out of the place as 46 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEES. soon as i:)0SBi)Dle, he was released. But he was so anno\ed by the passengers constantly referring to his folly, that when we reached Savannah, though he had paid his fare home, he borrowed money of a fellow -passenger and took the overland route to NeAV Orleans, alleging that his friends were sick, a ftict which he had no possible means of learning, had it been true. December '>. — Fine weather, smooth sea, little sickness, and much good feeling. The rough edges were beginning to wear off, and men in the crowd to rub against each other with- out chafing. About 10 A. M., took a pilot, and in two hours entered the Savannah river, which "\ve were oliliged to trace with great care. At 12 v. m. the steamer grounded at low tide. The Captain and Mail Agent lowered a boat, and took the mails to town, about a mile and a half distant. In two hours more we floated, and ran up to town, whei'e we lay until -J r. >f.. and then weighed anchor and left. The river being between high banks, little of the town can ])e seen from the steamer's FIMST STEAMSHIP PIONEEES. 47 deck. Passing up the Savtiniuih rivor, the land, as far as the e_)e can reach, in every direction, -is one unbroken level, like the vast marshes that I)order some Noi'thei'u I'lvers. The forests, in nuuiv i)laces, look as though either fire or water had kiUcd all the tim- ber, and present a most melancholy picture to one accustomed to the grand and pictur- esque scenery of our Northern and Western mountains. Along the line of the river are numerous plantations, bearing the marks of ibrmer beauty and prosperity, but of present decay and ruin ; immense rice fields half cultivated, and cane fields half harvested, be- spangled here and there with knots of native shrubs and flowerets, which practical indolence allows to annually increase in size and num- ber. Here we saw, sluggishly careering through the ail', or lazily lolling in the sun, large numbers of "turkey buzzards," large, dull, black, filthy fowl — rapacious scavengers, pos- sessing all the meaner qualities of the condor and the crow combined. On the 6th a fresh storm arose, which, though not severe, was too much for the 48 PIBST STEAMSHIP PIONPEPS. best of our iiei've.-^, and caused inor//r with his hand. "Well, sir?" "Well — excuse me, but I think you dre-w tiro cards." " I believe not — I'll take your pile if 30U please." "Two cards?" " Your money ! " Lips are set and yet they smile — revolvers appear. No fuss, but quick movements are made. Every nerve is strung to its utmost tension, yet without a tremor. " Well, sir ? " " Well." " Your money ! " "Two cards." A cool headed old " Game Cock," stretches out his hand, and says : " Try arbitration." " Agreed ! " " Agreed ! " A few minutes and the veteran says, " You 50 FISST .Sl'EAM.SMIP PIONEEBS. are wrong mv friend. No doublets were drawn. Mistakes will happen to the most careful gentlemen." Revolvers are replaced in their belts, and knives return to their scabbards, and all settle down to their "work" again. We now pass along the coast ot Florida, so near that, with a glass, the scenerj- may be minutely scanned. The day is beautiful, the sea is unrutHed, and nearly all the pas- sengers are on deck, gazing with rapture upon the ever vernal scenes of a soft southern clime, and drinking in the delightful aroma wafted to sea from ten thousand fra>>rant flowers. Immediately along the shore there is a strip of barren, sandy country, while a little further back there is a rich profusion of shrubber}- in full foliage. But there is no hill, nor mound, nor rising slope, to greet the . eye and relieve the nit)notonA-. To the vei'ge of vision, all is one vast, unbroken level. At about noon of the 8th the Captain took his glass, and from the paddle-box began to scan the horizon. He thought he ought to see the "Pan of Matanzas." a hisih bluff on FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 51 the northern shore of Cuba, some fifty miles east of Havana. After some two hours of the most anxious watching, he went below, and found, \)\ a careful review of his observa- tions, that he had overrun liis calculations, and was several leagues west of Havana ; whereupon he •'put about," and in a short time we were running along a coast of sur- passing beauty and grandeur. There were the undulating surface, the gentle slope, and the towering mountain — all ol" which had been wanting in every landscape since we left New York — and all fully robed in the peren- nial verdure and sweetness of a. tropical clime. While dining, at 4 i'. m., all were aroused by the ejaculations, '•Morn Castle!'' "MoRO Castle!" "Come and see Moro Castle!" This is the celebrated fortificatioji to which the city of Havana, the capital of Cuba, is indebted for safety from all foreign enemies. The}- saluted us handsomely with guns and with bunting; and soon an open l)oat, rowed by half a dozen negroes, jjearing in its center the standing figure of a pilot — a man of Lambei'tinian proportions and of true Cas- 52 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. tillian independence. He passed around to our larboard quarter, and then, without deign- ing an attempt to come on board, hj the use of his West Indian Spanish, iUustrated hy shrugging shoulders and waving hands and pointing fingers, directed us safely into the harbor. This harbor, "La Habaiia,"' is completely land-locked, and, while large enough for all naval and commercial purposes, is so limited in extent and so pi'otected b}^ natural barriers, that no danger to shipping can ever arise from wind or storm. Added to this. the channel is so narrow that yow are obliged to pass within easy musket range of the im- pregnable " Muro "' on one side, and " La Principe" on the other, while "Cabana" shows its teeth directly in front, and impreg- nable "works" look down upon you from CA'er}- eminence, and yoti can scarceh" imagine a spot more secure. Aftei' dropping anchor, and waiting a long time, a retinue of Custom-house officers, with great pomp, lioarded us, and went through with all the formalities of the law "in such ca.se made and provided." Then, after another FIBST STUAMSHIP PIONEEES. 53 Avaitinj^ oi' such length as to "mamtain the dignity of the tlirone," we were subjected to another examination bv the Healtli Officer, who, finding neither "cliicken-pox," nor "measles," "hmatic fever," nor "delirium tremens" on board, most graciouply signified his "permission to go on shore." First we visited the commercial house of Barnum & Co.,- agents of the Steamship Com- pany, the exterioi' of whose countinghouse was not unlike a most magnificent public hall or theater, and the interior, like the parlors and drawingrooms of a palace ; gorgeous with mo- saic Hoors, and gilded walls, and works of art, while mirrors on all sides multiplied each component of the general grandeur into half a score, and constituted a scene at once charm- ing and bewildering to the last degree. At twilight, visited the "Grand Plaza" — a large square, whose walks, paved with marble, occupy more than half its surfacie, and whose groves of Pahn, and Orange, aiul Cocoa, and other tropical trees and plants, are of sur- passing lieauty, and fill the atmosphere with exhilerating odors. Here, by the light of a 54 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. tropical moon, we saio the gi'aiid and formal and — to us live Yankees — tedious prepara- tions, and by the aid of a balmy tropical atmosphere heard the performance of what is justly called one of the best military bands in the world. All the surroundings, and all the movements, and all the performances, were of the most magnificent character, and all of us felt at the close of each piece. "That strain again; it had a joj'ous lay: O, it came o'er my soul like the sweet South, That breathes upon a bank of violets, Stealing and giving odor." On the 9th we treated ourselves to a ride in a "volahte." This is a two -wheeled vehicle, very like a chaise of the early days of New England, excepting that the cover comes much farther over forward, and is fur- nished with an apron which, as occasion requires, may be let down and fastened in front, so that neither horse nor driver can be seen, or spatter you with mud. The shafts are from twelve to twenty feet long, and the horse — usually a small, lean, hard- worked and poor -fed creature — is between FIBST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 55 them at the extreme eiulj^. his tail Ijraided, and pulled around to one side and tied to the harness, so that he cannot ainioy the flies; and the driver is in the saddle, with monstrous spurs and cruel club, beating the poor beast most unmercifully, if he fails to obey or to fii;o fast enough to suit the brutal rider. This accounts tor the apron in front of the passenger, who is by it saved the sight of the cruelty, which would deprive any cultivated mind of all pleasure in the "pacea." Our ride extended several miles through the suburbs of the city, and into the country, through an avenue Ijoi'dered on either side Ijy a hedge of roses, in full bloom, beyond and enclosed by which were plains and hill sides, waving with harvest, villas that vie with Gallic Chateau, and gardens of such extent and richness, and beauty, as to Ijc (juite be- yond all comparison. Surely, after such an experience as our stay at Havana gave us, we could never again chai'ge the Spaniard with imreasonable eulogy when he styles Cuba, " La joya mas_^ brilliance 56 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. en la carona do Espaiia" — tla' most brilliant jewel in the Spanish crown. But their appel- lation " Siempre fiel isla de Cuba" — the ever fixithfnl Cuba — will ere lon and ran down the coast, until 10 A. m., when, convinced of his error, he again " put about " and ran up the coast. The scenery is very grand ; hills rise above hills, and " movmtain peaks o'er peaks pro- ject," all clad in rich and varied ti'opical verdure. At 12 M. there arose directly before us a high, projecting point of land, upon the extreme end of which appeared the magnifi- cent ruins of old " Fort San Lorenzo," com- manding the entrance to the harbor of Chagres, which is small, and the channel so narrow, shallow and crooked, that vessels drawing more ()8 FIRUT STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. I than ten feet of water cannot safel}' attempt its passage. The brig '•' Ann and Julia " having safely come in, attempted, five days ago, to go out, but was thrown upon the rocks directly under the fort, where she lay, in distress, three days, when she was got off and rini back into port, and her Ijottom into the sand. She is now discharging her cargo, and will probably prove a total loss. The little bay, containing only a few acres, is quite land-locked. As you leave the ship several miles from the shore, and row toward the town, you pass directly under the point of land, on which, some two hundred feet above you, are seen the foundations of what was once a strong Spanish fortification, and which now presents a most imposing appear- ance, if anything can be imposing when in ruins. It is everywhere, from the toj) to the water's edge, thickly grown over with mosses, bushes, vines and grasses, the latter of which are continually cropped Ijy numerous cows and goats — the former in the more level and safe footings, the latter in the more precipitous and Fin ST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 69 daiifrerous. This old fortification, with its decay- ing walls, falling turrets, crumbling bastions, and moss-grown base, with ever- blooming shrub- bery creeping and peering over its hoary stone walls, its towers crumbling into silent oblivion, its weeping old flag -staff, bending with age, and mourning the loss of its former append- age, pi-esents one of the most rare and racy subjects for the limner's pencil that combined art and nature ever produced. As you pass this interesting object on yom- left, another of neai-ly, if not quite, equal interest presents itself o}i the right — the dwelling of wealth in a tropical clime. It would, in the North, be called the merest apology for a house, and its environs. The principal building, standing immediately upon the shoi'e, is composed of perpendicular bam- boo poles, thatched with thickly matted palm leaves, and is surrounded by its little coterie of out - houses, similarly constructed ; with a finely cut lawn at its back, bounded by a beautiful grove of i)alms with smooth round tiunks and tufts of long branching leaves on the top, and a dense, tangled forest in the 70 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. rear — a fashionable villa, the home of luxury, in a land of indolence and poverty. At 12 M. we dropped anchor three miles from shore, and waited tAVO hours to be saluted, visited, or in some way recognized, but in vain. Captain Thompson then lowered his life - boat and, with a few persons, went on shore. The next morning we were all taken on shore, going, a few at a time, in a small life -boat, through fearful breakers on the bar. Thus we reached Chagres, reported to be the most unhealthy port on the American continent. Chapter IV. FROM VHAGRKS TO PANAMA. WENTY- SEVEN days at sea is a serious affair to beginners, in ordinarj circunistances, though its monotony may have been brolten by several short stops. But when a ship has been fitted for a cer- tain purpose, and then, in the middle of her ^'oyage, the prominent circumstances all change when it is impossible to so modify the prepa^ rations as to adapt her to the new order of things, many new and unexpected annoyances will arise ; much friction will occui', and many grievances will be engendei'ed. Our ship had been prepared to carry the mails and a few passengers. For this pur- pose her accommodations were ample, and all her appointments excellent. But while at sea 72 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEFS. the gold diseovei'v h.ad been announced, and at New Orleans every availaljle inch of space- was occupied, much of it, by those who were willing to accept any berth, so that they might go; a class the very first to complain, and the most ready to trespass on the rights of others. With such a state of things, it is not strange that when we reached Chagres everybody was more or less nervous, and the eye of jealousy and the heart of envy saw many things that never existed, or, if existing, without the least intent in the direction sus- pected. Much feeling prevailed as to who should be first served, and best provided ; and not a few efforts were made to overreach and forestall, or in some other wa^ to obtain an advantage. Nor was this wonderful when we reflect that Chagres was a small town of not more than one hundred houses, having no sort of accommoda- tions for more than fifty or seventy -five per- sons, while we numbered over two hundred. Nor were the means of transportation up the river any more adequate. The town of Chagres has perhaps one thou- FIBST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. lo sand souls. The buildings, with one exception, are mere bamboo huts, without doors, win- dows, or floors, with palm leaf thatched roofs, and would be unfit for sheep or poultry, in the North, yet seem to be quite adequate to all the wants of their tenants. The exception is a very small frame house, painted red, having only two rooms, owned and occupied by a venerable Jamaica negro named John Joseph Lewis, and his equally black " Venus," each weighing about twu hundred and fifty pounds. They speak English, are educated, intelligent, and make themselves very popular by their readiness to assist strangers in transacting business with the natives, whose onl}- dialect is a medley of miserably adulterated Spanish and Indian. Nor is it wonderful that this establishment bears the noble title of the " American Hotel." In natural scenei'A' the vicinity of Chagres is surpassingly rich. On three sides of the town, finely moulded hills and magnificent bluffs, covered with tropically luxuriant, peren- nial verdure and bloom ; between two hills a romantic stream rushing down, foi'ming some ol' 74 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. the most charming cascades, while the moi'e pretentious river, rising high in the mountains, moves majestically through a gorge into the bay ; and the open sea, within half a mile, in ii-ont, not only combine to charm the eye and invite the pencil of the artist, but A\'ith much tbrce conti'overt the universally expressed belief that this is one of the most malarious spots on the face of the earth. We are, how- ever, very fortunate in being here within the only two months in the year in which it is safe for foreigners to spend even a night. General Adair, Collector of the Port of Astoria, Oregon, having his wife and five children on board ; Pacificus Ord, Esq., of New Orleans, also having his family, and the writer went ashore to make preparations for ascending the I'iver with oiu* faniilies. Con- tracts were readily made at $40 to $60, according to size, per canoe from Chagres to (Jruces. But we soon found that to our in- (juiry "'When will 3'ou start?" the universal reply was " MarLana," " in the morning." This was pleasant at first, but after being re- peated from day to da}-, for half a week it FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. lb became rather unsatisfactory. It was the onl}- food to check our impatience from Wednesday to Saturday. Having engaged a " dug out " — a mahogany log, three feet through and twenty long, made into a canoe — with four men to "pole" it up the river to Cruces, for $40, we commenced preparations for our journey. Mine host of the "American Hotel," on the second da.y, in order to quiet symptoms of impatience which he thought ought to exhibit themselves, told us that he had some- thing to show us " in the morning, which would be very interesting " — and it ivas. He brought out a four - ounce vial full of gold DUST FROM California, and poured it upon the table with all the dignity of an emperor exhibiting his diadem, and enlarged upon the immense quantities of it to be " picked up at Sail Fnawimoy It was the first we had ever seen. Only wife and 1 were admitted — though others saw it afterward. We were told that it was " a custom equal to a law " that " a bottle of brandy must be provided for the boatmen or they would not 76 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. work," and we would either be capsized in the river, or left helpless in the midst of the journey. We believed differently, and preferred to deal with men when they were sober, and hence refused assent to the demand. Our canoe was loaded, all ready to start, and the men waited only to see the bottle of Ijrandy. I said nothing, but stepped back a few paces from the bank and, with no sort of haste, drew out my faithful "seven -shooter," and examined it with great cai'e and deliberation — seeing that all the chambers were loaded, and every cap in its place — taking espe- (dal pains that they should plainly see all 1 ilid. I then replaced the revolver, stepped into the canoe, and gave the command to •'shove off." Men seldom move more actively, and never seem more willing than they. Brandy was not again named during the trip ; but, at the end of theip work, at Cruces, I presented each of them with coin enough to buy more than a bottle of brandy, if they so chose. Thus was inaugurated a new cus- tom. These were stalwart men of mixed Spanish and Indian blood — muscular, sti'ong, PIIiST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. I I and well skilled in the use of the pole, but they would not wear a particle of clothing. The water is deep in the middle of the stream ; they therefore keep close in shore where their pt)les will reach the bottom ; and when rounding a point, where the water is too deep, they give a violent push toward the other bank, which, by the swiftness of the <;urrent, the boat soon reaches, l)ut much farther •down stream; they then pole along the outer bank of the long curve, thus following the longest possible line. And as the stream is very crooked, and in many places rapid, the progress is very slow. Our average speed from Chatires to Cruces was less than one mile an hour. We had made but a short distance, around the first sharp bend, when they suddenly shoved the canoe into the bushes which over- hung the bank, stuck their poles into the uuid on the water side, so as to hold it in its place, and appeared to be preparing to leave us. Observing anxiety on our counte- nances, and a hand upon my revolver, they laughed heartily, and uttering, all at once, " Bano," plimged into the water. Five to ten minutes sufficed to cool them ofi^ their hath was finished ; thej came aboard, drew their poles from the mud, and resumed their work. This operation was performed very frequently during the whole trip. At dusk, and in the rain, we reached Ga- tun, the first toicn, consisting of one bamboo hut. situated at the confluence of a stream of tiie same name and the main river. Two boats were already there, and two others soon arrived, making the " arm}' of occupation " for the night to consist of five " vessels," and seventeen souls. General Adair's excellent wife was in poor health, and wished a chicken. This incident, with some others, so fully illustrate the utter simplicity of these natives at this time, in matters of finance, that its rehearsal will be pardoned : The General asked the man of the house for one of his chickens, of which a consider- able niunber were at hand. " Si, Seuor," was the reply, politely uttered. The chicken was caught, killed, and dressed by the General FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 79 The price was asked, and with the same blandness he said, "Quatro reales." Certainly this was not unreasonable, a fine chicken tor a half dollar, whicli was at once paid. Sticks were gathered by the Adairs, a fire built ii|K)n stones, and a pot — horvoiced for the oc- casion — hung between an improvised "shears'" over the fire, and in due time the chicken was cooked, and Mrs. Adair very much re- freshed thereby. But the end was not yet. The '■ landlord " again addressed the General, very politely raising his ''sombrero" and bow- ing his head as he said, in Spanish, "Two dollars for the use of the pot, if you please." At that particular time the (Jeneral's knowl- edge of Spanish utterly failed him, and the '•landlord" finally turned awaj' highly dis- gusted with the stupidity and ignorance of "el Americano." After being entertained for an hour or two by the very jxAite and intelligent conversation ol' the "landlord" and his "seiiora" — not one word of which we could understand — and the elegant acting of their "muchachas," the delicacy of which we failed to see ; none of 80 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. whom wore any sort of clothing, except that the two former had each a very jioor substi- tute for the Edenic apron — we sought "rooms" for our wives and daughters. We gentlemen had otlier business than to sleep, as will soon be seen. We were accorded for the ladies "the best room in the house." In one cor- ner of the tioorless hut, a stick of timber, some six inches through and twelve feet long, with a notch cut once in eighteen inches, stood slanting against the corner. , Overhead were large bamboo poles for beams, and small bamboo poles laid across them for a floor. Uji that notched pole the ladies climbed, and spreading the blankets, which we threw u]) after them, upon these bare poles, they com- posed themselves for the night. The vicinity was full of robbers. Where- fore we organized the entire male force of our part}' into a "home guard." Every man Avas heaAdly armed, with bowie-knife, revolver, and double-barreled shot-gun, and uniformed in a gum cloth cap and cloak. We stationed our pickets, gave strictest orders to our sentinels, and then, with shouldered arms and martial FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 81 tread, patrolled the vicinity of our boats and our wives through the livelong night. Oh ! how- it rained. At about 3 o'clock A. M., two or three marauders appeared near one of our pickets, the cocking of whose gun started them off in such haste that his shot did not probably overtake them. Tn the morning we were off at the dawn. Upon asking for the l)ill for the lodgings of the ladies, we were told. "Dos pesos eada una" — firo ilollars ajnece. We consulted, and handed him twenty-five cents each, which he most graciously accepted without saj'ing a word. About sundown of the next da}' we tied up to the 1)ank. went ashore, kindled a fire, made coffee, and prepared our dinner and supper all at once. By some mishap all of the ladies had mislaid their spoons. Seeing a native hut aliout a quarter of a mile off, one of the gentlemen went and asked for the loan of a teaspoon. It was an old, bent, battered, dilapidated, blackened specimen of block tin, which had probably Ijeen liestowed 82 FIEST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. upon some ancestral damsel by Ballx)a, in acknowledgment of favors r-cceived at the time lie discovered the Pacific. The ladies washed it, and then we all used it, in tia-n, to stir the sugar in our coftee. The meal over, the spoon was returned, so much brighter than it came that the seilora thought it must have been nearly worn out. and charged "uno real" tor the use ol' it. Oiu' canoe had a low thatched looJ", cover- ing about six feet in the central portion. This screened us Irom the sun by day and fog by night, and the treciuent deluging rains which tell without regard to time. After an hour we lay down, and, trom long continued fatigue and want of sleep, slept very soundly. While asleep the livei- fell rapidly, leaving the bow of our canoe on the bank, while the stern, toward which were onr heads, sank with the falling stream, until we were, unconsciously-, I3 ing with our feet at an angle of some filteen ilegrees highei' than our heads. In this position there came up, or rather doirii. a tropical shower, which .so filled and FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 83 run down our canoe, that the water rose uucUt our heads, and flowing into om* ears, awakened us to a sense of another of the beauties of pioneering in tlie tropics. Having reached Cruces — the head of nav- igation — we debarked, in a drenching rain, and sought lodgings in the best hotel. How good the accommodations were, and how delicious the fare was, need not l)e told beyond this, that our blankets spread upon our trunks, in an open space, thatched over head with palm leaves, under which some twenty- others, like ourselves, on trunks or l^oxes, or on the ground, also slept, was the ''best room in the house," and also tliat we lived on eggs and raw onions, because, when we had removed the shell from the one, and the husk fi'om the other, we knew the inner portion was clean. There, perhaps, never was a case wliere travelei's more effectually frightened the natives than ours. A few persons had, from time to time, i'or centuries, crossed the Isthmus, being furnished with pack and saddle animals by the people 84 FJJiST STEAMSHIP PIONEEMS. who kept them for such purposes. But now, gold hiid been discovered in California, and five vessels, all crowded with an excited mass of adventurei's, had reached Chagres within a sinofle week. The canard, ''the Americans have come to take the country," gained credence, and every horse, and mule, and donkey, was driven into the mountains for safety from the rapacity of the invaders. All property, of every kind that could be, was "cached," and none but the bravest, or the most feeble of the people remained at jvccessible points. Add to this, the cholera broke out in a most malignant form, and five of our number were soon claiming at our hands the last sad rites of sepulture. The town did not aftbrd boards enough for a single coffin, and we buried them in their blankets. Of this number was Captain Elliott, in ♦•barge of the Quartermaster's Department for the Pacific Division of the army — -one of the noblest specunens of an American soldier that ever graced our arm}-. He and his bride left New York with us, but she suflei'ed so terribly with seasickness, FIJiST .S'TEAM.SJIIl' PJONBEBS. 85 before we reuched New Orleans, that he feared to take her further, and sent her overhmd to ^h)bile, the home of hei' parents, while he, •obedient to orders, pursued his journey, to die without her soothing presence, and be buried in Ibreign soil, by the hands oi' Ids conrpan- ions in arms. Here, also, fell Luoket and JiuKCH, and otliers. This added to the general alarm of the people, and they most heartily wished us all in a place to which none of us cared to go. After waiting five entlemen pioneers, to her room, in tlie second stoi-y ot" the large huildiiii;'. The emphatic decdarations "These are the only two sensible ladies among us," "That is the oidy nitioiml \v:iv ibr a lady to attempt the trip," and otliers of similar import were repeated Ibi' the hundredth time. This act inau.uurated, and those noble men sanctioned and gave (diaraiiter and honorable repute, to an innovation adapteil to tlu' cir- cinnstances ; and established a custom which, by ladies who liad an opportunity to prejiare tcir it betbre leaving liome, was t()r years ap- pi'eciated and enjoyed. IJef'ore the [)assengers by the pioneer steam- shi]) had all reached Panama, some l,o(IO hal ai-rived a,t (!hiigres, and were pushing their way across the Isthmus by every con- ceivable and possible means. We arrived at Panama on the very day that the steamer •' (Jaliforniit," which had gone around, was generally considered due there. 88 FIRST STKAMSirrP PIONEERS. But we were compelled to wait twenty -five days, before she arrived and was ready to sail again. During this time there were all manner ol' expedients resorted to for relief from the un- paralleled circumstances. All were waiting, and nearly all impatiently, so to be again ou the way to the land of gold. Some, to kill time, drank, and others gaui- bled ; .some studied Spanish, and others hunted paroquets and monkeys ; some fished from the rocks, and others gathered shells on the beach ; some sought remunerative labor at their trades, and others went into speculations. Fev) — very few, renuiined idle, and all ga\e vent to expressions of extreme delight when it was announced, " All aboard for San Fran- Cisco ! " Me other ciii-om in oIIk'I- climes engage, Cares that lieeonie iny birth and suit my ago: In various knowledge to instruct my youtli, And conquer prejudice, worst foe to trutli; By t'oreigu arts, domestic faults to mend, Enlarge my notions, and my views extend; The useful science of the world to know, Which hooks can never teach, nor pedants show." Chapter V NJ'^W YOUK TO PAJSAMA VIA STRAfTS OF MAGELLAN. H E following is the journal kept by Dr. A. B. Stout, Surgeon of the steamship "California," on her pioneer trip from New York to San Francisco, in 1848-9. We give it in the words of the author, thus aftbrding a present view of facts, impressions and reflections, which were fresh twent}' - five years ago : New Yokk, Oct. G, 184S. Friday, Oct. Htli. — The steamship California, Captain Cleaveland Forbes, though advertised to sail for the Pacific Ocean on the 2d inst., was delayed by an order from Government until to-day. All interested in her departure 90 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. received instructions to be at Whitehall at 11 o'clock, to meet a steamer which would con- veA- them on board. The mail did not arrive imtil later, and some complaints were ex- pressed of the dilatory habits of the Postoffice. At 12 were, however, clear of our steamer, and fairly under weigh. A delisihtful passage - rising has not _\et become one of w\y virtues. After breakfast at- tended to my sick steward. If his heart is as difficult to open as his Ijowels, 1 pity the one who depends upon his charity. Made a calculation for the Captain, or a table to aid him to rate his chronometer (Dent's ; cost $230). Studied Spanish Grammar, and mounted a straw hat. Every day requires some change of dress to adapt me to the gradual approach to the equator. The restoration of Mr. Baird's health is at- tended with a manifest improvement in the working of the engine. That of the steward is equally essential to the dinner. Passed part of the P. M. assisting to make a capstan cover. Eead Gil Bias. Thank heavens ! the steward's bowels have at last FIRST STEAMSHIP PIOXEEBS. 97 yielded to ca spirited siege of several days, conducted with an array of pills and potions to an appalling extent. We had dense clouds coming up from S. E. which gave us passing showers, without at any time obscuring the stars. Wednesday, Oct. 18th. — After breakfast looked after several indisposed, re - arx-anged my phar- macy, and read some Spanish. A beautiful day ; the wind enabling us to set spencers. P. M. The paint dried on the deck-lights; proving too unmanageable for the ordinary modes of cleaning deck, I attacked it with nitric acid, and succeeded in the treatment ol dirty deck-lights. Then worked on Mr. Dur- yee's capstan cover. Thursday, Oct. 19th. There was heavy rain in the night. After breakfast the engine was stopped to renew the wadding of the pistons, etc. A. M. Read Spanish, etc. Prepared med- icine for several who required it ; our worthy Captain being among the number. Overhauled my medicine chest. I bet with Mr. Bowen a bottle of porter 98 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. our latitude would be less than 12°. I lost. It was 12° 13'. I was surprised in this latitude and longi- tude to see a large dragon fly (libellula) amusing itself around the ship. Mr. Bowen thought he must have come with us, and now made his first appearance on deck. The Cap- tain supposed he hailed from the most south- ern and western of the West India Islands. Agassiz has told me that the female libellula is the first to seek the male. In rapid flight she seizes the object of her choice by the neck, and never relaxes her hold until her attachment is amply rewarded. I find, however, in the Diet. d'Hist. Nat. of D'Orbigny, that the "demoiselle" is exoner- ated from thit< unchaste aspersion, and that it is the male which first advances ; and, seizing the female by the throat, compels her to accept his addresses. Do the larvae of the libellula live in salt water ? If so, the specimen we saw this morn- ing may have been washed to sea in the Gulf stream in a larval state, and, having un- dergone its metamorphosis at this distance FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 99 from shoi'e, been making its flight for land when attracted for rest and food to the ship. I saw numerous small flying -fish skipping along the surface of the water, ahead of the vessel. Friday, Oct. 20th. — Very heavy riain duiing the night, with frequent squalls. The Captain has been much amused in observing the dif- ference of these squalls from those of more northern latitudes. Li the latter they come up suddenly with violent gusts which require the utmost despatch to furl sail ; but in these lat- itudes they are more mild, cover a part of the sky, then divide and pass off in different directions. Often the cloud discharges its rain, but is unattended b}' wind. Rain in the morning ; at 12 o'clock clear sky. All hands very busy clearing ship. Winds high and as usual nearly ahead. Arranged medicine chest, read a little, took a bath. Saturday, Oct. 21st. — Fine weather, very warm. Nothing to do but read. The Captain's throat much improved. We are everj- day discovering badly finished 100 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. work in the ship. It is now the pipes for blowing out the salt from the boilers, which are defective, and occasioned us a loss of twenty - five minutes yesterday, during which the steamer was stopped for repairing them. Tn the course of the day the alarm bell of fire was suddenly rung ; the crew were in an instant running in every direction, but generally directing their course forward. Hose- pipes and water were soon in requisition ; and all the pumps were quickly in activity to extinguish the fire. In a word every one was at a moment's warning at his post, and busily engaged. But this time the fire butt was directed overboard. The Captain had ordered a false alarm to exercise the men in their several allotted duties in the event of fire. The crew is entirel}' organized into a fii'e corps, having to each man a station appointed, to which, and to no other he shall instantly repair at whatever moment the fearful alarm may be given ; and his duty is pre - arranged by a standing order given thus in advance, that no man may be at a loss for occupation, or be in danger of FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 101 interfering or confusing others in their work. After the alarm was over and the fire im- plements tried, a card was issued to each one of the crew, indicating to him his number, title, duty and station. To me the following duty was assigned by card : " Dr. A. B. Stout. — To repair to larboai'd gangway, and keep passengers aft ; and to see that Mr. Durvee's instruments, charts, &c., are passed into larboard quarter -boat if necessary." Thus every possible precaution is taken to suppress a fire, if this most appalling of acci- dents which can happen to a ship at sea should occur. Suruhii/, Oct. :^Jd. — A. M., read service of the Church on deck. P. M., a violent rain- squall came on, during which I tried my waterjjroof coat by sitting on the capstan, and by receiv- ing also on my head the water collected in the cuddy deck awning. I came out dry. Several showers occurred during the evening, and numbers of gulls were seen flying in the distance. They apparently feared to approach the sbip. Monday, Oct. .^Ad. — Weather beautiful. I was 102 FIRST STEAMSHIP PI02\EERS. called this morning by Mr. Duryee to see a sail, a ship bound homeward, apiiarently. We hoisted our flag, to which the sail replied, and we then run up our signal, *' U. S. M." Birds seen at a distance — shearwaters. On approaching the Line the conversation turns frequently ujwn the subject of "Lord Neptune," and hundreds of sailor - stories of shaving, tarring and feathering, are related. Tiiesdny, Oct. .'4tJi. — Weather superb. In the morning early, cloudy. The steamer was stopped fifty minutes to repair the pump valves, and ^vater to a considerable amount was pumped out of her. At about 3 o'clock we crossed the Line, and, to my great joy, Lord Neptune did not appear. The Captain endeavored to make me see the line by fixing a sticl: across the spy- glass, but I eluded the hoax. The evening was extremel}' cool and the dew copious. There is an evident change in the air. Wednesday, Oct. ;i5tli. — Weather delightful. During the night more steam was made to enable us to come up Avith an island, marked on the chart, before night. The Captain ex- FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 103 pects to make it about five o'clock p. m. This morning numerous II3 ing fish [Exoccettia volitiuvf) were seen, and several stonny petrels. The island, Fernando Noronha, was passed in the night to the westward, hut not in siglit. Tlidrxilnij, Oct. jath. — P'ine breeze, enabling us to spreaut he finall}- put us right, and at a late hour retired. We perhaps owe to his sagacity an escape from a serious misfortune. Thursday, Nov. 2d. — As the result proved, we had overrun to nearly St. Sebastian's Island ; and the night and morning were oc- cupied in retracing our steps, so that our voyage has been thereby increased one day. We were off the port of Rio yesterday at 12 o'clock, A. M. We have run back against a strong head wind ; the steamer, however, sail- ing admirably. Off Santa Cruz we stopped, and blew the steam whistle to spur up the lazy port officers. At 4 p. M. all visits were FIItST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. 107 finished, and, under a fine head of steam, the vessel went rapidly to her anchorage, aston- ishing all .spectators by her speed. In the evening I went ashore, and called, with Mr. DuRTEE and Mr. Bowen, on Mr. Birckhead, the consignee of the ship. As might be ex- pected iii a Catholic country, it was a day consecrated t« the church. All Soul's day was honored by an illumination of the churches. Fridaij, Nov. Sd. — Went ashore to peram- bulate with Mr. Bowen ; while our invalid Captain, insisting on fulfilling his duties, en- tered his vessel at the Custom House, and performed other work. In consequence of which, he returned on board at dinner time much exhausted. M\- walk was through the principal streets to .see the novelties of the citj' — visited the church and saw the ceremony of visiting the relics of the dead, and witnessed the service for the benefit of their souls. The mode of preserving the ashes of the dear departed is singular. Dined on board at 2 o'clock, and in the evening went to the oi^era Nebucadonozor. 108 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. Two acts were performed, Cachucha danced, and finalty the ballet Reyna de las Flores was badly danced. Saturday, Nov. 4th. — Remained on board all the morning ; the afternoon also ; when the Captain brought some friends to tea — Captain and Mrs. Corning, and Miss Dean of Brook- lyn. The ship's beauties were shown them, and then we danced, while the Captain played the accordeon. At 9 o'clock, with Mr. Dur- YEE and Mr. Bowen, went ashore to see a fancy ball at the Hotel N actional. As the admission to ladies was gratis, the character of the ball may be surmised — a wretched aftair. Stmday, Xoc. 5th. — Remaiiaed on Ijoard until 2 o'clock. During the morning, our Minister, Mr. Todd, and the consul, Mr. Parkes came to visit the ship. At 2 o'clock went on board the Brandy- wine to dine Avith the assistant surgeon, Dr. . Went early to bed. Monday, Nov. 6th. — The Captain's health having excited the solicitude of his friends ashore, he has desired a consultation, by their FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEHS. 109 advice, with Dr. Bache, fleet surgeon on board the Brandywine. I went accordingly to seek him. He accompanied me immediately, and confirmed all the opinions I had already ex- pressed. He recommended that the Captain should at once give up duty, and reside on shore. After dinner, accordingly, I accompanied him, at his request, to Catete, about two miles from the city, where we took lodgings in a delightfully situated hotel (Mr. Constant's). Although the captain was greatly fatigued, he passed the evening in the apartment of Mr. Greenway, conversing until the landlord could get the rooms ready for our reception. Mrs. Hunter, widow of a former Minister of the United States, was present, and during the evening, Mrs. Parkes, the Consul's wife, and Miss Thompson came in. Tuesday, Nov. 7th. — Notwithstanding a rainy day, the Captain returned to the city upon some indispensable business, and I went on board to prepare some medicine for him. As I had received information of the great pi'e valence of small -pox, I carefully wai'ned the ship's crew and fire department to be as 110 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. little as possible on shore ; and my warning was soon followed by an order from the Captain, positively forbidding all communica- tion. At 3 o'clock we dined at Catete. The Captain and I then finished our letters home, to be sent in the ship E. Corning, Captain Corning, to New York, and I took them to the city, and bade adieu to Mrs. Corning and to Miss Dean, who sail with him. Took tea with Mr. Dprtee and Mr. Bo wen, whom I met in the hotel Pharoux ; after which I took ii cabriolet, and returned to Catete. Wednesday, Nov. Hth. — Now that the Captain promises to remain at rest, I have recom- menced treatment. He took last evening li gtt. hydrocyanic acid, and at daylight a second dose. He has passed the night with but very little coughing, and had no paroxysm of cough this morning. I took this morning a delight- ful walk along the Botafogo road, admiring the beautiful quintas, the gaudy and luxuriant dora of the gardens, and the almost unrivaled scenery. At 1 o'clock made a visit to Mr. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. Ill Todd, United States Minister, and afterwards called upon Mr. Parkes, his lady, and Miss Thompson. Dined with the Captain, and after dinner walked into town upon business for him. Took the Rua Sapa, going in, and viewed the public garden, having a fine terrace upon the shore of the bay. A large building in coui'se of construction appears to be a hospital, which is much needed. Passed the evening with the Captain. Thursday, Nov. nth. — The Captain has passed an admirable night — without cough — has slept uninterruptedly, and did not require to drink. Tongue cleaner, and voice improved. Our ship was delayed at Rio twenty -three days to repair and coal. The Captain's health being now sufficiently restored, we hoisted anchor. From Rio the voyage to the Straits of Magellan, on sighting Cape Virgins, pre- sented only the usual routine of sea life. Thursday, Dec. 7lh — At 6.30 a. m. made Cape Virgins. " " " '■• 12.30 entered St. of Magellan. " " " " 2.30 p. M. off Cape Possession. Friday, " 8th •■ 5.30 p. m. at Port Famine. 112 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. Saturday, Dec. 9th — At 11.30 a. m. at Fortesque Bay. Sunday. " 10th " 7.30 a. m. at York Eoads. Monday, " 11th ■' 3 p. m. at Fortesque Bay. Tuesday. " 12th " 2.30 a. m. leave for C. Pillar. " •' " " 5.30 p. M. off Cape Pillar. Entered the Straits at 12.30 of Thursday 7th. b. m. From 12.30 to 2.30 when off Cape Possession 2.00 " 3.00 A. M. to 5.30 p. M. Friday Sth 14.30 " 3.30 A. M. to 11.30 A. M. Saturday tUh 8.00 " 4.00 A. M. to 7.30 A. M. Sunday 10th 3.30 4.00 A. M. to 5.30 p. M. Tuesday 12th 13.30 Total sailing time in the Straits of Magella..ii... 41.30 TIME LOST IN THE STRAITS : h. m. At Cape Possession, Thursday 7th, from 2.30 p. m. to 3.00 A. M 12.30 At Port Famine, Friday Sth, from 5.30 p. m. to 2.30 A. M 9.00 At Fortesque Ba}-, Saturday 9th, from 11.30 a. .m. to 4.00 A. M 16.30 At York Eoads, Sunday 10th, from 7.30 a. m. to 1.30 p. M 31.00 Backway from 1.30 to 3.00 p. iM. 1.30 At Fortesque Bay, Monday 11th, from 3.00 p. m. to 2.30 A. M 35.30 Add from Fortesque Bay to York Roads or to Jerome Point 2.00 Total time lost 108.00 The expression "time lost" alludes only to the calculation of the duration of the voyage. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 113 To me, it was "time" to record on the great register of enjoyment. More beautiful scenes can scarcely be im- agined than are everywhere witnessed in passing through the Straits, and on entering the various harbors on its northern side. The navigation here was new to our com- mander. The charts were uncertain ; the tides were rapid, and their rise and fall many feet; the size of the vessel great for these narrow Straits; though generally deej) the water, yet frequent rocks appear in the channel, or, still worse, rise to a few feet below the surface — their location tmly being suspected from the long kelp which grows from them and floats upon the water, or a rift' on the tide at low ebb. Again, the narrowness of the channel and its devious course prevent steering by compass. The way must be found by the skill and sight of the navigator, aided by the landmarks given in the books and charts. But now arises anothei' danger. Sudden squalls of wind and fog, called "willewahs," from the west, dash with violence over the high lands, and, in a few I 14 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. moments, shut the scene from view. The head wind, with a turn in the trend of the shore, renders advance to a sail -ship impos- sible, to a steamer too dangerous to attempt. The ship must anchor, and hold if she can ; the steamer seeks quick refuge in the nearest of the many deep harbors. It was in one of these surprises that the " California " dropped her anchor in York Roads. The "willewah" had passed ; the charming serenity of the weather was restored. A scene of natural grandeur was unveiled by the departure of the fog. A long vista ol" mountains stretched far into the country, the highest covered with snow ; innumerable cascades through the long perspective, falling from their sharp precipices, poured their waters into the lovely river which meandered through the valley — whose green verdure contrasted with the snow -covered mountain tops. A couple of hours ashore to ex- plore this glorious scene were accorded. Quickly a boat was out, and soon we were reveling in the enjoyment of these beauties of Nature, and a nice stock of game rewardedour romance. But our joy was now rudely brought to an end. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 115 Scarcely were we aboard Avheii the snow- white form of the "willewah" peered over the mountain and phmged Uke a Niagara into our tranquil roadstead. In a few mo- ments the bay was crisped with white -caps, as the squall cut deep furrows in the water. " The ship drags her anchor !" was the quick announcement. The usual means had recourse to in such cases were applied in vain. The strong wind and rapid ebb tide was hurrying her towards the mouth of the harbor, when, touching on a rock, the ship came to a dead halt. The rock held better than the anchor, but the fast ebbing tide aftbrded little con- solation, as we felt our vessel beginning to list over. The potent wheels, with all steam on, failed at first to budge her. Two boats were now quickly launched, with a rapidity that was astonishing, and lashed together with a spar across their bow. On this a kedge anchor was promptl}' shipped, and our first officer with brave men rowed in the teeth of the squall and dropped the kedge far out in the bay. The cable was carried to the capstan, and now might be seen 116 FIB ST STEAMSHIP PIONEHES. \our surgeon trotting around the deck, tugging at the bar of the capstan, his whilom pulpit, with a "Oh hy yo, heave ho," in lieu of the words better adapted to his piety ; but his ministration was eft'ective, and with a few more "Oh hy ho, heave hos," and a lively motion ot the paddles, the gallant ship yielded to the pressure and glided oft' like a swan upon the water. By this time Mr. Willewah had gone and all was tranquil and serene. A careful inquest was now made on the body of the ship, and it was soon found that her highly seasoned old ribs had borne the shock without a fracture, that the copper on her sternum was uninjured, and that no sign of any dropsical eftusion in her abdomen could be discovered ; and, with a grand head of steam on, we bade adieu to the scene of our lomance and our stern necessity. The diffidence of the Surgeon . dissuades him from attributing this relief to his own per- sonal strength, though, since the event, he has always more highly prized the truth of the adage, that it was the last feather that broke the camel's back. He has also carefully re- FinST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 117 trained from voting himself any salvage. It was manitest we owed but little gratitude to the power of side -wheels, for they had already proved a failure ; but the " California," in passing a vote of thanks, was unwilling en- tirely to go back on her wheels, and rested her case on that old saw of. "Who helps himself, others will help." The ship was soon otf Cape Pillar, and made her tirst salutation to the Pacitic Ocean. Hut a strong gale blew from the west — a welcome in no wise pacific. Our Captain uiight have passed by a channel between some islands and the west coast ; but the navigar tiou was uncertain, the charts doubtful, and his experience of York Roads not yet fully digested ; so he determined boldl}- to breast the gale, and steered seaward. In a few days the "California" anchored in the harbor of Valparaiso. Fifty hours at Valparaiso was too short a time to enjo}' much of the varied hospitality proffered us by Messrs. Alsop & Co., and others. The city is surrounded on the land side by a semicircle of mountains, which en- 118 FIR.ST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. compasts it like the walls of a mighty forti'e.ss. A drive h\ a tortuous road to the summit gave us an idea of the location of the eity, and a refreshing contrast to sea life. At Valparaiso, the continued illness oi" Captain Forbes rendered a change of officers necessary. Captain Marshall, connnanding a ship on route loi' China, was induced to assist as First Officer, in lieu of Mr. Duryee, who consequently was appointed to the com- mand of Captain M.\rshall's ship. We parted with sorrow from both our good shipmate, and Mr. Bowen, our agreeable passenger. The ship arrived the 29tli of December at Callao. At Lima, the health of Captain Ft)RBES rendered a consultation w4th physicians known to the consignees, Messrs. Alsop & Co., desirable to l)oth myself and them ; and it gave an anxious doctor's mind relief to he sustained by the testimony of the consulta- tion. At the solicitation of many friends at Callao, a social party was invited on board, and Captain Marshall had an opportunity to show his skill in managing a steamer in FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 119 - and cheaj). He accordingly shipped several kegs of small change, called pistareens, worth fifteen cents, with a A'iew to pass them oft' for twenty -five cent pieces. He had learned that at Panama ten bits made a dollar, while at San Francisco eight were enough, and that any piece the size oi" a quarter would pass for twenty-five cents. The clever broker made from eight to ten cents on every pistareen. With this fine ballast on board we arrived at Panama. The "hurra!" which rent the welkin as the yearned -for steamer quietl}- and unpresumingly presented her proboscis and gently dropped her anchor, cannot be described. Its enthusiasm can only be measured by the uproar which followed when the ticket - holders ashore were FIRS'T STEAMSHIP PIONEER S. 1-Jl informed that the best staterooms were already occupied bv Spaiiifsh passengers from Callao. A universal row — a sort of moral •' willewah " came down. The simple explauii- tion consists in the fact that the ship had left New York in ballast, without thi-ou,uii passengers, four or five passengers having been admitted bv courtesy. The gold fever broke out after the departure of the steamer from New York, and the company in Ne^v York issued way tickets from Panama tt) San Francisco enough to crowd the ship to her utmost capacity: the issue of tickets having been predicated on her arrival empty at Panama : Init the consignees at Callao or Lima, uninformed ol' this fact, had admitted the importunate dime- lovers from Peru. Sharks abounded in the harbor of Panama, and to them for a breakfast were to l)e con- signed the intruders li-um Peru. Litigation lor swindle and damages was to Ije the an- nihilation of the Pacific Mail Steamship Com- pany on the Pacific; and the good ship "California" was to be burnt and sunk. But, as the last expedient would cut ever\- liodj's nose oft", it was finally resolved, in con. sideration of the great necessity, and in respect to everybody's good intentions, that the gen- tlemen from Peru should receive the most ample accommodations which the hurricane deck could aftbrd. and that the ticket - holders from New York should possess themselves of the stateiooms as indicated on their tickets. Happy solution ! most upright judges ! But the staterooms were not ecjual to the tickets. The company in New York, importuned like the agents in Callao, had over issued their tickets ; and over this balance oi" amount was an excess of outsiders, offering double and treble j)rices to get only a " standee "- right on board. But the dispute blew over, and witli an overloaded ship, carrying nearly five hundred souls, we steamed out of the harbor in quest of the Land of Gold. And now the previous "dolce iiir niente" of the Surgeon came t« grief. The Panama fever uuide its appearance, and very many of the passengers became ill. In the cabins, in the steerage, on the decks, in the coils of cable, above and Ijelow, were scattered the sick. Their dreams of gold FIRST STEAMSHIP FIONHJSHS. 123 were visioiis of disgust. Those who esc;ii)eil the fever were sick of the provisions ; and unconcealed grumbling added its music to the plaints of the invalids. The provisions shipped at Panama had been stored for a long time in damp warehouses and became damaged, and our own stoi-es of delicacies for invalids were quite insufficient. To make the rounds of the ship three times daily; make up the i)re- scriptions; gather tlie emptied vials and boxes, during a sweltering heat ; array in uniform at meal times; and hover around the souj) and gruel boilers to protect his patients from the ravages of the hungry well ones, was the night - and - day work of the doctor. Soon, however, the sick list thinned, and. on pass- ing Cape St. Lucas, when the climate changed to a refreshing coolness, all were well. 1 lunl the blissful satisfaction oi' feeling that not :i passenger had died. Time does not permit to recount the thousand and one varied events of the day. as the ship rushed forward on her voyage; nor yet rehearse the drama of strange and exciting incidents which appeared on the 124 FIRST STEAMISHIP PIONEERS. stage as we successively made the harbors of Acapiilco, San Ijlas, Monterey, and San Diego. On leaving Panama, Captain Forbks became a passenger, and (Japtain Marshall assumed eomraand ; and I could not but grieve that our assiduous commander should be deprived l>y ill health the honor ol' bringing his ship to her destination. One ilay he called me to his statei'oom, and expressing his gratitude I'oi' my care, pi'esented me a gold breastpin as a token of regard. As )iow the steamer approached her goal, a serious panic spread through the ship. The fuel was reported short. It Avould be neces- sary to cut wood ashoi'e ; and the danger of being compelled tt) tear the ship to supply the I'urnaces became imminent ; but great joy succeeded the alarm, when the Engineer, Mr. liAOCLiFFE, discovered a lot of coal, wldch had escaped notice, under the forward deck. With this aid we quickly reached our port, and «',ast anchor in the Ha\' ol" Yerba Buena on 2Sth day ol' Feluniary, 1S4'.I. As the staunch ship calmly steamed up the harbor, with the ilignity of a monarch who FIRST STKAMSJIIP PT0NJ':EBS'. 125 had acliieved vuitoiy al'ter a long .strife, guns were lired from the heights, the United States frigate Ohio gave her a sahite and manned her yards. The utmost excitement prevailed in San Francisco. Universal joy and liilarity suc- ceeded. Everybody treated everybody. And til us iu a i)erfect gale of pleasure terminated tlie Icmg voyage from New Yoi-k of the first steamer to California. Ohaptf/r VI AM jV F It A NC ISCO TN IS//'.). H K vuyaii-o uj) tlie coast of Caliloniia is viiriofl liy ever changing scenery on the main land, and freqnent clus- ters of ishmds. near or more remote from the shore. Notable among these is a group, some thirty-two miles directly west and in front of the Golden Gate. They are three in nunibei', and their e.\treme points are about twelve miles from each other in a north- west and south-east dii'ection, nearly parallel with the coast. They are rocky points of a range of mountains probably once near the coast on the main land, and are called the Farallones {Mauds of the Friars.) In early times they were inhaluted Ity large numbers of seals and sea otters. To FIli.ST STKAilSHIF PIOSEEES. 121 fa«ilitate the W(jrk of capturing these, the Kii: have a hundred per cent, advantage over any other prominent ocean port on earth. On the 28th of February, 1849. we found " Portsmouth Square," where the Plaza now is, in the city ol" San Francisco, to he in latitude 37'' 48' north, and longitude west IVom Green- wich 122° 25' — and we presume it is there yei. About three miles from the ocean we bore slightly to the south, crossing a cove, upon the south-west border of which was North Beach. Continuing to bear sharply to our right, around a high jutting hill, making full three- fourths of a circle, we dropped anchor about half a mile from shore. As we are still on board where we can see, let us look at the town. This hill that we have just rounded, and the corrugated surface looking toward the south-east and extending as I'ar south as Sac- ramento street, are covered with a rich dark FIRST STKAMSHIP PIONEERS. 181 alluvium : not, as is generally supposed, with fiand. But to the south of Sacramento street, and to the west of Leavenworth, the hills are mostly sand and unquestionably of ocean- drift origin. The town was laid out sometime before our arrival, from the water front, parallel with Montgomery street, as I'ar back as Taylor street, and with other streets at right angles with these, as far south as California street. The lots were 50 - varas, or Spanish yards — equal to 137 2 feet scpiare. The blocks, from north to south, are two lots — 275 feet ; and from east to west, three lots — 412i feet. The streets, with only a few exceptions, are sixty feet wide, California and Broadway being a few feet wider. Though the town was thus regularly laid out, so little attention had l)een paid t(j street lines or proin-ietorship. that Ba}'ard Taylor, who arrived there in August following, says : " The town is planted, but seems scarcely to have taken root, for tents, canvas, plank, mud, and adobe houses are mingled together with the least apparent attempt at order or dunibility." ]32 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. The village of Yerba Buena [yood herb — which herb is not, as one author states, mint) now denominated the city of San Francisco, lay upon a. cove of the same name, extending from a jutting rocky point, near the junction of the present Broadway and Front streets, to Rincon point, near where Harrison sti*eet reaches the bay, about three- fourths of a mile. Indians had lived here, more or less, tor ages. Some three miles south - west, the Span- ish mission ''Dolores" was projected in 1769, but was not established until 1776. No building, however, was erected on the present site of San Francisco urttil 1835, when (Japtain A. W. Richardson put up what we would now call a shanty. It consisted of four red -wood poles stuck into the ground, over the tops of which was thrown the foresail of an old bi'ig. Nor were there, up to 1846, more than twenty -five buildings of all descrijv tions. In June, 1847, a Lieutenant of Colonel Stevenson's regiment took a census, and found only four hundred and fifty -nine souls of all FJR.ST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. 133 classes. In March, 1848, the «ame gentleman took another census, and found the population to be just eight hundred and twelve. In the following month gold was discovered, and almost the entire population left all, and hastened to the mines. The newspaper was ■compelled to stop publication, and a general gloom came over the whole place. But in this case, as in many others incident to hu- man life, what seemed the wor.st was for the best. During the summer and autumn of 1S48 the only reason why town lots could not have been •' bought tor a song " was that there was nobody there to ."iell, if anybody had •wanted to buv. Hence no property changed hands. But on the return of the miners to their tents, for the lots they had purchased at from $100 to $1,000 each, they could find ready purchasers at more than toi times the prices they had paid. Thus while they had been digging gold wherewith to build houses, their deserted lots had earned four or ten times as much as they had obtained. But during that winter — 1848-9^ — the ex- citement of sudden wealth overcame the bet- 134 FIKST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. ter judp.meiit of" the masses to such an extent that, though perhaps not more than two thou- sand souls had congregated there, the "Alta CaH- tbi-nia" of February- 1st. 1849, says: "San Francisco is the worst governed town in America."' Nor shall we wonder at this when we notice the lustabilil// of" those who should be most relialjle in all things." To illustrate, the 2)ai)ei' just quoted from, editorially suys of the expected arrival of the first steamei", then due at any hour : " It is an event .so fraught with future hopes of advantage, that our memories will almost deserve execration if we do not cele- l)rate the event in proper style and spirit. It is an epoch that deserves to be brought into bold relief, and he who takes an active part in getting up a judicious observance of the occasion, will, ten years hence, think it the proudest event of bis life." Yet this same editor so cooled off that, four weeks after, on the day following the arrival, his whole account of the afl'air is written in an editorial of less than twenty lines, of such utter dullness that anv .second-rate stock actor. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 135 whose advent had been announced with equal eoohiess, would have challenged the editor lor an attempt to •' damn liiin with faint praise." Suffice it to say that, as our steamer passed Alcatraz and circled around toward her an- chorage, she passed five of our national vessels of war, which, being in the liarljor and under tiie command of Commodore Jones, were so arranged as to receive us with due honor. We passed the smallest first, and then the next in size ; the " Oliio," then the pride of the American navy, being last. Each gave us guns from alternate sides, the entire length, as we slowly passed, and when the first gun from tlie "Ohio," the Commo- dore's flag- ship, was fired, the order: "'Man the yards I" was obeyed by fifteen hundred as noble mariners as ever — like so many em- mets — .swarmed into the rigging of a noble three -decker. The Commodore was on the quarter deck, in full dress, and, by his oft -waved hat and graceful bow, gave a most finishing touch and tone to one of the grandest salutes we have ever heard given in any pai't of the world. 136 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. After casting anchor we went ashore in a ship'^! boat, hmding among the rocks and boulders of Chirk 's Point. There was no wharf As we steped out of the boat upon the stones. Captain Wyse, a jolly old " shell - back," threw his small cavalry valise down upon the rocks, and, reaching a half- doUai- toward a man who appeared to be a ship's porter, said : " Carry that valise up to the hotel, my boy." Jack drew back from the extended coin, and, witli an air that would have done honor to a Persian monarch, drew from his own pocket tu:o half dollars, and, throwing them upon the ground at the Cap- tain's feet, said, as he strode oft' with mag- nificent disgust : '' Carry it uj) yourself." The people who had been to the mines the year before were preparing to go again ; and the new - comers were in the great- est possible anxiety, each one, to get to the " best diggings," ahead of anybod}- else. This produced a state of confusion l^eyond all con- ception, and, while we called the place a town or city, because we knew not what else to call it, there was very little resemblance to FIBST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 137 le any other town we had ever seen or heard of. One of the most active and inHuential nuT- chants in town, tried all day to procure ibr a friend and his wife, who had arrived on the steamer, a bed to lodge in during the night, hut foiled, and was obliged, in the evening, to take them back to the ship to -staN' the first night." There were no potatoes in town. T whole crop from the Sandwich Islands had been brought over and consumed. The place was for a time supi)lied with a kind ut potato flour, or dessicated potato, put up in cans. But some sharp Yankee, antici])ating the state of things, had run down to Honolulu in a small vessel, and procured all the small potatoes which had l)een left on the ground as worthless — a much larger proportion than in a Northern "patch" — and hastened, under '*all sails," back to San Francisco. The next day, a piece of candle boai'd, with the words, " Potatoes at dinner ever\- day," was hung out by the side, of the door of tlie only ''regular built" eating-house in the pliice — on Washington street, between Montgonierv and Keaiiiy. The next morning, one of the newl^- arrived passengers, who, if he possessed no other Irish trait, was a most inveterate potato lover, took liis liasket and hastened to the market, and asked foi- •• fresh potatoes." "Yes, sir; not many, but very fine." ■'How do you sell them V " "Only a dollar ami :i half." •' A Inishel ? " '• No ; a pound." •• 111 take two pounds." And they were " very fine " indeed. They would not average as large as common English walnuts. - One of our passengers had " li.\ed u[i a market at the corne)- of Jackson and Kearn}' streets, where he kept, not only nleat, but other " living instrumentalities. ' Mr. W went in to get a steak. While waiting his turn, a man. in a hurry. oaiHc in, and blurted out : " Got 'ny eggs ? " J FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 139 " Yes." "How d'ye sellum ? " "Twelve tlolLars u dozen." " I'll take a dozen." And he threw down a doubloon, leceiviiiir hifs eggs and four dollars in change. The whole thing was so e.vtravagant in every particular, that it stirred, to the bottom, the ludicrous, in a irajj who stood by ; and, as .soon as the customer was gone, he put on a most serious, confidential, business-like air. and siding up to the butcher said, in a jn-etended whisper, but loud enough to. be heard by all present. " Roe, you 'i-e a d n fool ; didn't you know eggs is eighteen dol- lars this morning?" " No." said the astonished vendor. "AYell, they U," said he. The brief dialogue was scarcely ended, when another " steward " looked in — " Haint got no eggs?" " Yes. "What at?" " Eighteen ; got only a half a dtrzen." "I'll take em." 14(1 FIRST STKAMSHIP PIOyKERS. Paid his mne dollars, and (tarried oft' the prize. * The inhabitants of the town were by no means all Anieincans, or even English speak- ing people. They were Indians. Me.xicans, 8onorians. Kanakas. Spanish, French. British, (lermans. Chinese, Peruvians, Chilenos. Malays, and so on to the end of a chapter which would come near tilling the insjjired call '' from every kindred, and nation, and tongue, and people mider the whole heaven." With the arrival ot our steamer the pre- j>onderance. which thereafter grew heavier every month, was American. So that we are free to admit, that for whatever has since been done, ijixxl or evil, in San Francisco — yea, in California — the Americans are as essentially responsible, as is the dominant political part}- for acts of the administration which it ha.i established. There were several men located here in bu.«iness two or three years before our ar- rival — some of whose names appear in another })ortion of this volume — men to whom the present city is lai'gely indebted tor teach- FIRST STEAMSHIP PIOXEEBS. 141 iiijr '• the young-idea how to ^;hoot in coni- niercial aft'aiis. Tliey were, liowevei'. in the mitlst ol ;i wliirlpool of excitement, and roiild not l)e expected to conduct their aft'airs with the coohiess, and system. and precision that cliaracteri/.c a more advanced state of com- jiierce. Yet the {lerfectly wild rurkle-s.'nii.sK. with whicli they pushed affiiirs, struck every he- holder with blank astonishment. C V'. (tillespie had an auction house. A carjro of tea ai-rived a tew days altei- we did. There was very little in the country. On the day of sale a large number of up -country dealers in miners' supplies were present, ejich with a bag of gold dust, to purchase a few cliests for his store. The auctioneer put up "ten ciu'sts with u privilege" — that is. with the rig! it to take more than the t^n at the same rate. The l)idding was spirited and the excite- ment was continually increa.sing. while a calm, dark complexioned man, sat up on a high box. away from most otliers, and with- tiut at all abating his ^' irhiffJhu/." regularh' 142 rntsT steamship pioneers. raitswl the liiil just as ••soid' was ahuut to be said. Finally tlif ten chests were "sold to S. . Branxax." "How many will yon take. Mr. Br.vnnan'" said the auctioneer. Without ceasin,L:' to whittle, or raising- his head, he with the most utter lumchalance,, replied : ••'riie whole d concern:" and 8. Ukan- NA.N ,.\c Co. at once controlled all the tea on the Pivcific coast. No matter what thc\ paid, they were sure ol ready sale and larji,e })rofits. Another fenhtir was the clerkships in .stores. Five hundred dollars a month and a ' privi- lege to do business on their own account-,, was not unusual. Xor was it strange if in six or nine months, when the Sherift' sold out the store, the clerk was able to pui-chase it. and hire his old employer as a clerk. Multitudes of men. when leaving the "States," ^thinking that nothing moie was necessary than to reach San Francisco, after paying their passage, invested all their remain- iiiir casli in a •' wntinv ot" .sijme kind. |iiii- fiosiiiLf to sell on arrival ;it laru'e [X'ofit. illiistriitive of many, unini/ cases, tlic I'nl- lowiiiji s(^eue was one ilay w'itnesseil \)\ tlif writer. .V ,ii;eiitleuian. haviiiji just arrived, soiiulit the store of a prominent inercliant to whom he had letters of introduction. The proprietor was ■'not in." hut the clerk •'with a privilejte" /'""sand verv politely howed. and tile followinir dialogue ensued. "Can I do aiiythinji' lor you ? ' 1 hope you can. 1 have a little venture that f wish to dispose of." '• Yes ".' What is it? lict me see youi' invoice. The stranger presented it. Fie ran his eye over it. and saw at a glance that it contained the very articles which no liouse in town could su|)ply. and which were in con- stant demand. l>ul he iianded it iiack. and with well leigned disappointment said. — " Von ha\'"nt hrougiit llinn tilings out iiere witii you. have you ".' '" '■ Yes. 1 have. They are now landing." "I a Ml xorry. vrry ■so/vv/— n — m sorry for v«>u. Not suited to this market at all." ■' Well, wlijit will \ 1^11 give ine for them V " '• Uont want em I Wouldn't buy 'em at any price — couldn't sell em at all." " But give me sometliinji for them. Tliey are all 1 have left in the world, and I must get to the mines. Besides I am entirely out of funds, and am hungry;" and as he said this, his two great handsome blue eyes each became an island, his chin quivered, and his whole manly countenance expressed woe of deepest dye. as he turned to go. " Sorry, so sorrv vou have been so very unfortunate in your selection. Wish 1 <:oal (■LI^fArE. H E country to which we came, as defined by the constitutional conven- tion which met a few months after- ward, may be thus described. According to standard geographies, its extreme length, from north-west to south-east, 830 miles; extreme breadth, from west to east, 352 miles. Area, 188,982 square miles — being a larger territory than is covered by the states of Maine, New Hampshire. Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Is- land, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, and Maryland com- bined. In its topography it is as varied and as extravagant as its area is vast. It is all on a masiiiificent scale — nothing common about it. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 147 Its mountain ranges ai"e extensive and lofty, precipitous and rocky, running the entire length of the State, and covered with heaviest forests. Its plains are equally long and equally broad, thus dividing the whole surface into moun- tain and valley-, with very little of rolling prairie or sloping woodlands. The " Coast Range," which everywhere greets you with its bald heads and grinning ledges, as your steamer hugs the coast and seeks the " Golden Gate," runs nearly parallel to the .'^hore, and generally distant ten to thirty miles, and rises 1,500 to 3,000 feet. Its peaks are often covered with snow in winter, which, however, never remains more than a few hours, or at most a few days, at a time. Though in this range coal deposits are numerous and extensive, and quicksilver mines, equal to any in the world, and some other metals are found in limited quantities, gold and silver have not been found to any gi-eat extent. Though called a ra)) tiers in the country — relics of the following old Romish Missions. We give their statis- tics in brief, as they existed in, or about 1825, according to the statements- of Forbes, and Walter Colton, both excellent authorities. ^- ^jjj.- Dnl* of Value -it Amouut of Nn, DuiiiCilic KMahUsbroeot. M'TCtntmHiio. Specie. ADiinHls. Dolores, S. F 1776 S35,000 82,500 161,766 Santa Clara 1777 120,000 165,484 San Jose 1797 127.:^80 San Juan Bantista 1797 75,000 20,000 120,000 San Carlos 1770 40,000 95,530 Santa Cruz 1794 25,000 118,700 SoledacJ 1791 109,60(1 San Antonio 1771 108,200 San Miijrnel 1797 144,340 156 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. VAMF Date or San Luis Obispo 1772 La Purissima 1787 Santa Inez Santa Barbara 1786 San Buena Ventura 1782 San Fernande 1797 San Gabriel 1771 San Luis Eey 1798 San Diego 1769 AniouDtof Specie 8100,000 800,000 61,000 62,000 50,000 90,000 144,000 100,000 150,000 No. Domestic Aoituats. 105,200 82,200 63,760 72,000 124,500 128,840 140,580 140,000 Beside these Missions there were those of San Rafael, San Francisco Solano, whose pos- sessions would fully equal the average of those whose statistics are given. We also found a small number of earlier pioneers, men of mark, reference to whom will be made in another chapter. Chapter VIII. EABLIEB PIOSKKIiS. HE biographies of most of the early settlers of California, whose prominence entitles them to permanent record, have been so often and so fully written, that the want of time and space, which compels us to dispense with what we had intended, is less to be regretted than it otherwise would have been. As we are situated, we now barely re- fer to a few of those whose lives in Califor- nia were fraught with peculiar interest. GEORGE C. YOUNT, Born in North Carolina in 1794, arrived in California as a hunter and trapper in 1831. He found no traces of civilization except 158 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. the Romish Missions, to which i-eference was had in a previous chapter. In 1836 he ob- tained a large grant of fine land in Napa Valley, where he spent the remainder of his days. After building the first log house in the territory, he devoted himself with untiring energy to the culture of his place and the development of the country. He was a most frank, honest, and friendly man, full of the milk of human kindness, and ever engaged in some good work. He was a zealous Free Mason, and, for many years, a member and officer of the Grand Lodge in this State. Few men ever live as active and efficient lives, and have so few enemies, as he. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. 159 ZIBA BRANCH, A native of Scipio, Cayuga Co., N. Y., born in 1803, a descendant of a Revolutionary soldier, was, at eighteen, poor and without influential friends. Spent several years as a sailor on Lake Erie. Leaving this, he went via St. Louis to Santa Fe, where he arrived in July, 1830. In the latter part of the same year he started for a trapping tour in the Tulare Valley. But, meeting with unexpected obstacles, he did not reach San Bernardino till February, 1831. Mr. WoLFSKiLL, of Los Angeles, and Geo. C. YouNT, afterwards of Napa, were of the same party. He reached Santa Barbara, and en- gaged in the grocery business, which, after a time, he sold out, and^ in 1835, married and settled at San Luis Obispo, where, in 1837, he obtained a Spanish grant of land, and be- came one of the most wealthy men in the county . 160 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. CAPT. JOHN PATY Was born in Plymouth, Massachusetts, Feb. 22d, 1807 ; a direct descendant from May- flower stock. At fourteen he shipped on the brig " Gov. Winslow " from Boston for Amster- dam. Quick to learn and ready to execute, his advancements were rapid, being, at twenty- one, made master of a fine vessel, with which he cruised and traded in the Mediterranean and the West Indies for several years, his owners reposing so much confidence in him that the only instructions they ever gave him were verbal, and in these words : " Act accord- ing to your own judgment." In June, 1834, he reached the Sandwich Islands, on his first voyage to the Pacific, hav- ing with him his young wife and a brother. For several years he was engaged in trade between Honolulu and various north-east ports, spending more or less time every voyage on the California coast. He was at Monterey in the stormy political times of 1837-8. Moving rapidly, as the FIEST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 161 times demancled, between different places along the coast, in December, 1837, he reached San Francisco, Jacoh P. Leese, the only Ameri- can, and Captain Wm. Richardson, the only- Englishman, then residing in the place. From this time till 1840 he continued his business at sea between this coast, Honolulu and New England. It is a most happy fact that, during the first twenty years that Captain P. commanded vessels, often in the mOst unhealthy ports, he never lost a man, was never wrecked, was nevei- on short allowance. One ol" the most successful, most obliging, most efficient shi}) - masters on the Pacific ocean, he made nearly or quite one hundred trips between San Francisco and the Sand- wich Islands, with the loss of only one man and but one mast. Such men are few and, as it should be, their praises nuui}. Id 2 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. PETEK LASSEN Was bom in Denmark, in the year 1800. He was reared to, and for _\ears, in his native hind and in tlie United States, worked at, the trade of a bhicksmith. In 1839 he crossed tiie Continent to Oregon, and thence to Cali- fornia. In 1841 he erected, at Santa Cruz, and set in operation the first successful saw- mill ever built in the counti-y. In 1842, after working some time at his trade for ([Japtain Sutter, he settled on his tra€t of land which the Mexican Government had then I'ecently granted him, on Deer Creek, in the upper portion of Sacrameiitn Valley — the tract that is now (ierke's. Aftei- making a tour to Missouri, and making large additions to his already extended possessions, he fell into the hands ol' sharpers, was " unfortunate," and t)bliged to sell liis magnificent place for barely enough to pay his debts. lie i-emoved to Indian Valley, and then to Honey Lake Val- ley, whence, wliile prospecting lor silver mines FIEST STEAM.S'HIP PIONEEBS. 163 near Rock Sprinii,s, in Utali, uii the 29th of April, 1859, he was, with a companion, bru- tally assassinated. His death sent a pang of sorrow to thousands who had shared or known his warm and generous hospitality. 104 FIRST STKAMSHIP PIONEERS. ISAAC .1. SPAKK8 A veteran pioneer, dates existence from Bow- doin, Maine, in 1804. When very young, accom- panj ing his fatlier in a small boat from Cincinnati to St. Louis, they met the first steam -boat that ever visited the waters of the Mississippi. In 1831. he left St. Louis for Santa Fe, a journey lull of fearful disaster, of which we have not time to speak. Leaving there, he engaged in a hunting and trapping ex- pedition to the Gila River, in which his trials from hostile savages were far more severe than usually ialls to the lot ol" moun- taineers. With a small party he arrived at Los Angeles, February 10, 1832. ¥nm\ this, until 184'.), he followed the business oi" kill- ing sea otter lor their fui-, which was very valuable, ami, hence, the business lucrative. He finally' settled at Santa Barliara, where the people never wear}'' of hearing the .scarred and worn veteran recount the thrilling ad- ventures and hair-brealth escapes through which his devious, but always honorable path, led him to this distant coast. FIKST STJLAMSJIIJ' l>IONJ':j-:iiS. Uio .IAC015 1'. T.KE8E A iKitivo of Oliio, 1)0111 ill IS09. iind reared to the meifiuitile Imsiness. In the Fall of 1S29, he joined a hnnting .and trappiuii- expedition which wa.s tlien be- ing made up at Fort Smith Ark., tor the Kockv Moiintain.s, for three years. They left April ].s+; 1830. At San Fernando, in the Valley ol' Taos, he left the company, and •entered into trade. In October, 1833, he left for California, and arrived at Los Angeles on the 24th oi' December. He soon visited jNIonterey, the capital, and several of the more prominent Missions, and entered into contracts for the purchase and sale of mules. Col. Leese is a ver\- large man ph3sically, and his body is only indicative of his mind. ]le cannot satisty himself with aii\- small, or even ordinary, transactiois. He must operate ■ oil a grand scale. This mule trade, however, proved disastrous, on account ol" hostile Indians, and he, aJ'ter a while, abandoned it. For some time he continued his business LCili FIESr STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. and his operations between the principal towns iu California, and. on the first day of July, 1836, he arrived at "Yerba Buena Cove," where San Franriseo now is. and eonunenced the erection of his house on the south-west corner of Clay and Dupont streets. I low extensive a house it was may Ije ■" liuessed.' when it is known that it was completed in time to hold in it the first celebration ol' the Koui'th oi' Jidy in the place. lie continued his commercial pursuits here until 1841. when he made an overland trip to Oregon, taking with him eleven hundred head of cattle, with which to provision the famishing overland immigrants to that new territory. It took him sevent\" days to pick his way and make his road, and reach his destination. He resided for a time hi Sonoma, and then took up his permanent residence at Monterey, from which point he made frecpient and extensive commercial operations, both to the Islands of the Pacific and to the Orient. Having been married to a sister of Gen. M. G. V.-VLLEJo, in April, 18;-)7, their first child was born on the fifteenth of Ajjril, Pin ST STEAMSHIP PIONPEES. 167 ]So8 — Ijeiiiij the Jird horn 'nt '• Yerha Buiemi" and wa.s named Rosalia Leese. In advancing years, Col. Leese seems scarcely older than lie did thirty years ago. His genial face, and erect Ibrni, and elegant step are the admii'ation of all who know liim. lt)8 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. WOXWAVV DFNCAN Wat* l)orii ill Pertlishiiv. Scotliuidj ill 1809, wlioiv 1k' learned the carpenter's trade, and woiked at it until lie was thirty -three years old. when lie emigrated to New Zealand and remained until 1846. then came to Cali- Ibrnia. with his wife and limr children. Here, until the discovery of gold, he followed his trade. Then, with his little son, went to the mines, where, in less than a year, he obtained enough to satisf\ him ; when he returned to San Francisco, and devoted him- self to the improvement of his property, ami the care of his family for several years, after which, tiring of city life, he removed to Santa Clara County, and settled on a farm, where he continued to devote himself to agricnltnral pur- suits and the education of his family, until 1857. when he (piietly and peacefully passed away on his last voyage to the land where condition is not improved by change of phice or diversitv of pursuit. DR. ROBEET SEMPLE, Of Scotcli descent and Kentucky birtli. It is not strange that he had a strong will and an enterprising, adventurous spirit. He first learned the trade of a printer, and aftei'ward that of dentist. With these " two strings to his bow," he could travel anywhere and always find a "job." He visited, successively, every State in the Union, and then, in 1845, at the age of thirty - six, he crossed the Continent to Cali- fornia. The story of some of the stirring times suc;- ceeding his arrival he tells so well that we desire him to speak for himself. He writes as follows : " I ari'ived in Sacramento Valley on the 22nd of December, 1845. Took an interest and made a crop on the farm at the foot of the mountains, then claimed by Wm. Johnson and S. Ket.ser. " During the winter of '45-6, Gen. Jose Castro, then at the head of the military, 170 FIUST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. is.siied sevei'al proclamations, the character of which was said to be, that all foreigners who were not naturalized citizens of Mexico, should leave the country. The people continued quiet, under the impression that there would never be sufficient unanimity in the govern- ment to enforce such an order. Don Pio Pico was then the sicting Governor, but had received his office by revolution, when MiCH- EMORENO, who had been commissioned by the Supi'eme Government, was thrown out. "■ Although the country seemed to be entirely quiet, yet there was a deep laid scheme going on through a certain Irish jiriest, who was generally supposed to be an agent of Great Britain, to get possession of the terri- tory of (Jalifornia. His plan was to get pos- session of all the unoccupied land from the Ciudad de Los Angeles to the Bay of San Francisco, for the purpose of settling thereon 5,000 Catholics, to be lirought from Scotland and other portions of Great Britain, avowedly to secure the country against the "rapacious Americanos," who, he said, were like "hungry wolves swarming in, and would abrogate their FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 171 sweet religion." This scheme was broken iij) by a timely move on the part of the few Amer- icans who were in the country at the time, under jiwndse of assistance from Lt. Col. Fre- mont, who was then in the Sacramento Valley on an exploring expedition, with sixty men. "Although a proclamation was read at Sonoma ordering the Americans to leave the country forthwith, without arms, yet they seemed to pay little attention to it, and would probal)ly have forgotten it in a few months, but General Cartro had resolved on another revolution, and commenced making preparations, but, being un- willing to apprise the government of his design, attempted to cloak it under a crusade against the American settlers. " About the 1st of June, 1846, Gen. Castro crossed the Ra\- ol" San Francisco and collected, from the Mission of San Rafael and Gen. Vallejo'.r ranch, a))0ut two hundred head of horses, and there being no means of crossing at the Straits of Carquinez, he sent Lieut. Francisco de Arce, with the hoi-ses, to cross the Sacramento and San Joaquin. On his way he fell in with a Mr. Knight, an 172 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. American, who ha(i married a Mexican woman, and was a naturalized (dtizen of California. Feeling .xafe in it, he imparted to Kmght what he thought to be the designs of Gen. Castro; which was, first, to drive off all the Americans and Col. Fremont, and then to build a fort at the foot of the mountains, to pre- vent further immigration from the United States. This news was carried to Col. Fre- mont's (;amp in a few hours, and, beibre day- light next morning, the scattered Yanl-ees, for one hundred miles up and down the valley, armed and collected at F'remont's camp — then at the Buttes, between the Feather River and the Sacramento — under the im- pression that the first attack would be made on him, and thus eftocfually weaken the Americans. " This news was deemed sulficient to justify Col. Fremont in whatever steps he might choose to take, and, therefore, a proposition was made to him to strike the first blow, which he declined, but said, ' if the set- tlers thought proper to do so, that Castro should not hiu't them unless he hurt him FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 173 also'; upon which twelve of the Rancheros mounted their horses in full chase tor the Lieutenant and his pai-ty- with Castro's war horses, being the 9th of June. They trav- eled that day and nijrht ahout sixty miles, and, at daylight on the moi-ning of the 10th, surprised Lieut. •Franks" in his camp, took eighteen prisoners and about two hundred horses. After some consultation, the prisoners were released, with tlieir arms and a (dioice horse each, with a message to Castro that, if he would come for the horses himself, loith forre Kiiffickid, he might find them near the American Forks. "The party reached Fremont's camp the ne.Kt morning, and remained until the morn- ing of the 12th, when, with some recruits, they marched for the fortified town of Sonoma — then under command of Gen. Vallejo — a distance of about one hundred and twenty miles. By traveling two nights they were enabled to reach Sonoma about daylight on the 14th. The General had no intimation of a move on the part of the Americans, and was, therefore, totally unprepared to re- 174 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. ceiv'e them, and no alternative was left but to become a prisoner, without being able to ofier the slightest resistance. *' Tlie party at tlie taking ol' Sonoma con- sisted of thirty -three men. .So far. thev had neglected the important Awiy of making oHi- cers, and were following a pilot (Mr. Merrikj. Seeing the great necessity for some sort of an organization, the party were called together in Cuartel, when Wm. B. Ide was called to the chair, and R. Semple appointed Secretary. Dr. Semple explained the object of the meeting in an animated speech, in which he spoke at length of the necessity ol" organizing and act- ing together with an eye single to the ad- vancement of the cause oi" independence. lie nrged the necessity of respecting private prop- erty, and proper and respectful treatment of the prisoners, their families, and the people of the country. But before an}' business could be done, one of the guard notified the meeting that vaqueros and others were dispatched in difl'erent directions and were supposed to be messengers. A guard of twent}- men was left to keep possession of Sonoma, while the re- inaiiuler prepared to conduct the prisoners, Gen. M. G. Vallejo, Capt. Salvador Vallfjo, Col. Victor Prudo.y, and J. I'. Leese. to the Sacramento — then their lie.id (piarters. •■ I cannot ivf'rain from making a lew re- marks in this pUice, respecting the conduct ol" the successful party. The party was made of men from the four quarters of the earth, and ■of every variety- of occupation, and had lieen so nuich scattered over the country, that but ftjw were acquainted with each other ; having succeeded in two important eftbrts without re- sistance, without officers, and many of them had , scarcel}' any defiiiite pkm or object ; yet, be it said to their great credit, that they touched no private property, except horses to ride, and beef to sustain life, and, for many days, lived only on broiled beef, without l)read, and in many cases without salt. All possible respect was paid to the families who remained at Sonoma ; a degree of moderation was practiced by the • Hear Party ' which has never been experienced by an}' other people un- ■dei" similar circumstances." Having obtained possession of Sonom.a, they 170 FIJiSr STJSAMSJITP PIONEERS. hoisted the celebrated "Bear Flag," which was merely a piece t)l" white cotton cloth about six feet long. This they bordered, about four inches wide* with rod berry juice ; then wrote in black, •' The })t'ople's rights," and, below this, sketched a grizzly bear, witli a lone star. Bofoie peace was declared. Dr. Semplk, in connection with Walter Colton, at Monterey, on the l')th of August, 1846, issued the (irst number of •' Tltt CaJi/orniati," the first news- paper of any kind ever published in California. It was a snuill. four- page sheet, about twelve bv fifteen inches, its typographical appearance being much marred by the substitution of two r'^j for ii\ which tlieir types did not contain. .After that he laid out. and w;is the acknowl- edged father of. the town of Benicia. On the assembling oi' the Constitutional Con- vention at Monterey, in 1849, h> was the almost imanimous choice for president of the body, a position which he filled greatly to the credit both of himself and the assembly which thus inaugurated the State. In the latter part of 1854 he was thrown from his horse, and received injuries from which FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 177 he died on the 25th of October, leaving be- hind him the unrecorded acts of a long and eventful career. " The death of those distinguished by theii- station, But by their virtue more, awakes the mind To solemn dread, and strikes a saddening awe. Not that we grieve for them, but for ourselves, Left to the toil of life; — and yet the best Are, by the playful children of this world, At once forgot, as thej' had never been." 178 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. WILLIAM DAVIS MERRY HOWARD. Among the most prominent of San Fran- cisco's earl}- merchants was this native of Boston, who first visited California, as the agent of a company engaged in the hide and tallow trade in his native city, in 1839. He settled permanently in San Francisco in 1846, and, in connection with Henry Mellus, established a commercial house, which, up to 1850, when he retired, stood second to none on the Par cific Coast for all that makes trade honorable and business successful. He was among the first and most efficient promoters of the establishment of that noble institution, " The Protestant Orphan Asylum," in which, to the day of his death, he took a lively interest. He also donated to the " How- ard Presbyterian Church " the valuable lot on ■which their first house of worship was erected. The public school system and the fire depart- ment were also largely indebted to him for their early prosperity. On the 19th of January, 1856, after a short, ■FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 179 but exceedingly painful, illness, he died, in the midst of friends. How much his demise was felt is indicated by the following, which we find in the " CaU/ornia Chronicle,'' of Janu- ary 21st, 1856 : " At a meeting of the Societ}- of California "Pioneers, held at their rooms, the 20th instant, pursuant to adjournment, the committee ap- pointed at the previous meeting, to take into consideration the untimely death of Captain W. D. M. Howard, and to make the necessary arrangements for the Society to participate in paying the last sad tribute of respect to their late fellow member, the following preamble, resolutions, and obituary notice, were unani- mously adopted, as expressive of the sentiments of the Society : " Whereas, It has been the will of Al- mighty God to remove from our midst Cap- tain W. D. M. Howard, the first President, and ever a zealous friend of the Society- of California Pioneers, and " Whereas, the Society feels deep griel' for the loss it has sustained, and entertains the most heartfelt sympathy with the relatives of 180 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. the deceased in this sad hereavement — there- fore be it " Resolved, That, by this afflicting dispensa- tion of Providence, the Society of California Pioneers has lost one of its most beloved members and one of its noblest benefactors, the commmiity has lost one of its most es« teemed and public - spirited citizens, and the famil}' ol' the deceased a kind and affection- ate friend in every relation of life. " liexohed, That the members of the Society of California Pioneers will long cherish the memory of the deceased, endeared to them as he was by the man}' noble qualities which adorned his character ; and that they tender to his afflicted relatives their sincere sympathy and condolence. "Resolved, That the Society will attend the obsequies of the deceased ; and, as an addi- tional mark of respect, that the members of the society wear the usual badge of mourn- ing for thirty days. '^Resolved, That a copy of these resolutions, and of the following obituary notice, be sent to the relatives of the deceased, and published through the San Francisco press. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 181 ''Obituary. — Few men can pass away from the stage of life and leave their memory en- circled with more well-earned honor and love than Capt. William Davis Merry Howard. His was a life of peace encircled with all the social virtues. The laurels of the Christian and of the high - toned gentleman are his, more precious and more difficult to win than those of the victor of the battle-field. The tears oi an endeared community are shed for him, and, notwithstanding the diversity of sen- timent and Opinion which prevails, there was this unanimity, that Capt. W. D. M. HowARn had no enemy. In the calm and amiable dig- nity of his life he won each day some victory of friendship, and of some new friend obtained the lasting aftection. " Mr. Howard arrived in California from Bos- ton in 183'J, and, after visiting various localities in the country, finallj' located himself in San Francisco, in 1846. As agent, in the commencement of his career, he Jicquitted himself with that honor which placed him in the highest posi- tion in his commercial business. His subse- quent financial transactions gave him wealth ; — and, finally, in his retirement from active busi- ness to promote his health and enjoy the well- garnered harvest of his industry, he has moved through life with a heart as pure, and integrity- unsullied, as when he first embarked on life's weary path, and the bloom of youth first man- tled on his cheek. " Among our social institutions the liberal and generous hand of Capt. Howard may everywhere be traced. The orphan, little heed- ing whence the sweet charit} which sustained it may be derived, unconsciously in its morn- ing and evening prayers, blesses him. The Chui-ch, when struggling for an existence, and forgotten in the hot pursuit ol' wealth, flour- ished, and raised its spire to Heaven through his encouraging aid. When conflagrations had spread desolation and poverty, both the means and the genial will were left to him to prevent the recurrence of such ruin, and our fire de- partment well and fondly remembers the name of Howard. " In the desperate efibrts of worthless men to create war and anarchy in our city, the calm and unmoved dignity of Howard, in pre- FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 183 siding over the lovers of law and order, gave those trying scenes an earnestness, stronger than the sword, which struck terror into evil hearts and dispersed their bands. Walk among the many tenants of his lands and listen to the music of tlieir praise. No complaint of the opi^ressor's hand is heard, but the pleasant tones of grateful thanks issue from every lip. (lather around him at the social board the friends who enjoyed his intimacy, and will the}" not admit that his hospitality wore a grace which none can assume, arid only the pure of heart can manifest ? " The politics of Capt. Howard took no de- cided tbi'ui. His gi'eat idea was to promote the good of the whole nation, and whenever he could conduce to that object he was active in his couatr3''s cause. " Although eminently disposed to lead a life of peace, when invited to assist in organizing the military of the State, Capt. Howard again appears, as the benefactor rather than soldier, to approve by his presence, rather than lead in the strife of war; but the California Guard will grieve to know their ancient Captain is gone, and will shed for him a soldier's tear. "Thus have we followed him through his sphere of life, and everywhere we find the manlj gentleman, the noble citizen, the gener- ous friend." FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. l85 CHARLES L. 1?()SS. Oil that pleasant morning, as we steamed np the Bay around the Point and dropped anchor ahnost ofT Washington street, nearly all of the few citizens who had not caught the gold fever and departed for the auriferous fields, collected together upon the beach at the corner of Montgomery and Washington streets and greeted our ari-ival with welcome cheers. Among them was Charles L. Ross, a native of Rockway, New Jersey, and who, upon the thirty -first day of January of the present year, saw his fifty-seventh birthday. About the time of the departure of Steven- son's Regiment from New York for San Fran- cisco, some friends, who, knowing th.at the Mexican tariff would be abolished upon the arrival of that regiment at its destination, determined to dispatch the bark "Whiton" with a cargo of miscellaneous goods, under the direction and management of Mr. Ross. He arrived here in April, 1847, and com- menced business. He rented a building of William Petit, oh the beach, below Montgoin- ery street and near Washington, and, as it was entirely too small to contain the quantity , of goods unsold upon the departure of the vessel, a large number of cases of dry goods were obliged to remain outside, without shelter or protection, and were there opened and dis- posed of from time to time as purchasers were found. In those days, however, exposed prop- erty was perfectly safe from the depredations of thieves. For a nmnber of years prior to his immigra- tion hither, Mr. Ross had been engaged in the sale of India Rubber goods in the New York market, and the perfection of the Good- year patents had caused such a great demand for the manutiictured products as to cause quite a scarcity in the supply of the crude India Rubber, or caoutchouc, and he had intended, as soon as his cargo was disposed of, to pro- ceed to Peru and institute a search for it in the interior of that country, feeling persuaded it could be found as well upon the western as upon the eastern slope of that continent. By the advice, however, of James Lick, Esq., FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 187 who had recently arrived here from Lima, he was induced to abandon the adventure and to remain in California, and, during the Summer, erected a store on the north-west corner of Washington ami Montgomery streets. In '49 he erected other buildings on the opposite cor- ner ol" Montgoinerv. and did an extensive busi- ness, and prospered. During the yQnv 1S49 he purchased the brig TiUura Ann. and dispatched her to Mazatlan with a special messenger, to proceed overland to New York, to procure a steamboat to navi- gate the waters of the Sacramento river. His agent, having been bribed here, proved faithless upon his arrival at New York, and other parties reaped the benefit of his enterprise. In MO he purchased of Thom.\.s O. Larkin the property now occupied by the Mont- gomery Block, with other lots, for the sum of $300,000, and erected a large brick build- ing at a cost of over $100,000; and other buildings upon Washington street at a further cost of upwards of another $100,000. In the I^rick building was established the first Merchants' Exchange, by a son of Commodore Si-OAT. The income of this property up to the time (jf the fire was about $10,oOO per month. Tiie great fire of 'ol destroyed all his improvements, involving a loss, including debts outstanding, approximating nearly to $300,000. By the advice of friends whose judgment he unibrtuiiately (as it resulted in this partic- ular instance) respected and was guided by, he sold most ol" his real estate immediately after the fire, and spent several years in a vain attempt to collect his outstanding debts, until the town ''grew away" from him, and he has since Ijeen rated as a (ccmiparatively) poor man. Whilst he had means, few were more generous in the relief and assistance of others, and few gave more liljerally than he I'or benevolent piu'poses. Some of our very wealth}' citizens have cause to remember his liberality. He was a "charter memlxu'" of the Society of Pioneers, and one of the few now left en- titled to wear the Red Scarf. In 1850, he was elected a member of the Board of Aldennen, and, as Chairman of the FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 180 Committee of Education, reported the Bill or- ganizing (jur present system of Public Schools, an institution which he has never failed to regard Avith lively interest. As already remarked, his Jilierallti/ was ])roverl)ial. He shared what he had with those who had not ; and gave to every object of benevolence, and every moral and i-eligious enterprise with an unsparing hand. Let a few facts illustrate: When our steamer arrived, having on Ijoard Rev. O. C. Wheeler and wife — Mrs. Wheeler being the fii'st, and, for a considerable time, the uiiJi/ female missionar}' in California — Mr. Ross at once assumed the entire responsibility of their care and expenses, although under no more ol)ligation than any other citizen. He had, sometime Ijefore, suspended work upon a dwelling for himself because lumber had risen to $450 per thousand, but, before night of our first (lay, he had several workmen on the house, under orders to " complete it in the shortest possible time," notwithstanding lumber was $100 a thousand higher than when he suspended. He then hired the best ahuniij to be had, 190 Fin ST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. advanced $300 for the rent, and saw them as comfortable as possiWe until his house was done, when he took them there and made their living free, at a time when such fare and rooms were worth $500 a month. When Mr. Wheei-kr proposed the necessity for a house of worship, Mr. Ross at once en- tered into the work, .secured a lot, made the contracts* and suj^ervi-sed the work, without compensation, and then, beside numerous gifts of a few hundred dollars eiich, gave five THOUS.\ND DOLLARS at one time toward paying the debts incurred for the property. Though, like his honorable compeer, W. U. M. How.VRi), whose name appears on another page, he had no taste for partisan politics, he was a man of most unparalleled enter- prise, his operations often reaching a boldness of dash and hazardous venture which seemed * G. W. Meacham, how the proprietor of the " Hum- boldt House," perhaps the most recherche and popular place for "refreshing the inner man" on the two thousand miles of Paeifie IJailroads, was the builder, who, both ill thoroughness and time, gave entire satis- faction in his wori<. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 191 perfectly reckless, though there was always, in his rapidly reached conclusions, a philosophy that those of more moderation could not discover. It was on\y once in a great while that a vessel came into the harhor with merchandise, previous to the arrival of our steamer, and when one did come, it was of the utmost importance to get the Jirfit rhdiice at her super- cargo. In order to do this, the two rival houses of " Ho\v.\Kn & Mellus" and " C. L. Ross," each kept the best boat and set of oarsmen procurable, always ready, at a mo- ment's notice, to "jump aboard and pull for life," when a vessel entered the "Golden Gate." One day, " A brig is coming in ! " was announced. In a moment Howard had the rudder- lines of his boat, and Ross those of his, and every oarsman sprung his "ash" to its utmost. The race was close and closely contested for about three miles, but Ross was a hundred yards ahead when he grasped the ropes and sprang over the bulwarks. The Captain, who was also supercargo, met him at the rail, when, without one preliminary word, Ross said, in his peculiarly rapid manner : 192 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEHRS. '• Got any red woolen shirts ? " '" Yes," said the skipper. •' a hundred dozen." Without asking a single question as to what else the vessel contained, Ross said : '' What will you take for your entire cargo, everything in the ship ? " " A hundred per cent, on New York in- voice," said the Captain. " It is done," said Ross, as he handed the skipper a hundred dollars, "and this binds the bar sain." And, as the Captain received the money, and said "yes," Howard reached the deck. There were no " red woolen shirts " in the country, and every miner must have a pair, even if they cost him a hundred dollars, and C. L. Ross l-iieir it. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. IH." JAMES LICK. Among the most noteworthy of ;ill our '• Ear- lier Pioneers," is the gentleman whose name we have just written, and yet, strange to say, scarcely one of them has been less noticed in all the pretentious " Annals," and other books, that have essayed to give sketches of these noble men. Toot your own horn or go un- tamed was never more clearly illustrated than in the case of Mr. Lick. Naturally modest, and reticent to the last degree, nearly all the acts, of his heroic and wonderful life have remained unnoticed by the present generation. In fact, he was passed by in silence, while in the bold and unique adventures which brought him such vast accumulations ; and, could he have gratified his own desires, and accom- plished his purposes of unparalleled philan- thropy, he would have remained unknown to the day of his death. But this was not pos- sible. The later acts of his life, now in pro- gress, could not remain " under a bushel." We first find Mr. Lick in the interior of 194 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. Pennsylvania, a young married man, quietly pursuing a course of operations, evincing great enterprise in their planning, untiring energy in their execution, and promising great advan- tages in their results. We next find him in the pampas of Bra- zil and Buenos Ayres, in South America, with his thousands of horses and cattle, in the capacity of a great proprietor, from whom the Governments of those countries derived their supplies for their cavalry and their commissariat. Again we find him on the other side of the Continent, operating in the commercial me- tropoli of Chili and Peru ; everywhere, and at all times, S'; quiet, and so unobtrusive, that none, save those with whom he had transac- tions in business, and those who observed the external improvements wrought by his enter- prise, would be aware of his existence. His mode, in all departments of life, has never been in a beaten track or a rut, but alwaj's preeminently '■'■ sid i/eneris.'' In Valpa- raiso he was not only doing new things, but doing them in his own way. And, strange as it may seem, in such a FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEIiS. 195 very quiet m;in, lie was always reaching into enterprises in advance of others, " taking time by the forelock." When the news of gold discovery in Cali- fornia reached Valparaiso, he was in business that would have taken an ordinary man a series of months at least, to so close up that he could leave it, with any sort of consisten- cy ; yet he put doubloons enough in his trunk to make twenty thousand dollars, besides the expenses of the trip, entrusted his business to a confidential friend, and stepped on board the first vessel leaving his place for San Francisco. Arriving here, he found exactly what his sagacious mind had predicted from the mo- ment that the golden news reached him, viz : a splendid opportunity to invest in real estate. He scanned the situation, foresaw the . growth of the town, selected his " corner lots " with great good judgment, and invested his money. The property he then purchased with twenty thousand dollars, is perhaps to - day worth as many millions. For the first four years he built sparingly, and with great care ; afterward liberally and magnificently. 196 FIJiSr STEAMSHIP PIOyEERS. In 1853, John B. Weli.er, U. S. Senator IVoiu Calilbrnia, said, in his place, '' I would not give six bits for all the agricultural lands in California." At this same time Mr. Lick was preparing the foundations for a flouring mill iia Santa Clara County, which, with its massive foundii- tions, fine Burr stones, and interior finishings of solid mahogany, had, before it was com- pleted, cost him half a million of dollars. This done, he took fifty acres of adjoining land, reduced its surface to a spirit-level, and set, by the "square and compass," with his own hands, the whole with the choicest va- rieties of pear trees. All these operations, and numerous others, although done in a country where the Hon- orable Senator " would not give six bits for all the agricultural land," proved immensely remunerative. He also erected the magnificent hotel in San Francisco which bears his name, in which he finished, what is regai'ded the most splendid dining-room in the w'orld, and Avhich house is the home of the most accomplished FIRST STEAMSIITP PIONEERS. 107 travelers — the very elite of all civilized nations who visit our coast. Recently his acts have placed him in the front rank of })hilanthropists of this or any other age. He has donated to the Society of California Pioneers and to the Academy of Sciences each a lot worth at least $120,000, and is arranging to erect on each a building of the most superb and magnificent style and proportions adapted to their several uses, the aggregate cost of which will fall little if any short of a million of dollars. He has also arranged and provided for the erection, fur- nishing and permanent endowment of a vast Astronomical Observatory on the shore of Lake Tahoe, near the summit of the Sierra Nevada mountains, at an expense which will not proljably fall short of another million. Mr. Lick has been for many months in poor health, but seems to be spending all his powers in arranging plans for the disposal of his vast wealth in a manner to secure the greatest amount of good to the coming gene- rations of his follow- men. We would ghullv have been more full and 198 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. explicit with the reference to Mr. Lick, but were not, passing event. After he became satisfied that there would be no more new things in his native land, he turned his attention to othei' coasts and climes. Hearing the term )ieir so often attached to the American World, and supposing, therefore, that in the Nen: world everything wjus new, nothing repeated, he thought that wjis just the place for him. He came to America, and after learning his mistake, and that people did here even repeat the same atjts, carrying the thing so far as to eat and drink, and smoke and sleep, when they and others had done the same thing before, he became hugely disgusted, and, though then more than forty years old, in 1S56, hastened off to a medical school in France, where he spent two years. 204 FIKST STKAM,SHIP PIONKERS. Beioie comiiiL; to (Jaliforuia. lie was. for a series^ of" years, a cloth merchant at the corner of William ami .John streets, New York. On the twenty- third oi' December, 1848, he left New York o)i hoaid steamer -'Crescent City," tiir ChatiTes, whence he crossed the Isthmus, and to(jk passage in steamer •'Cali- fornia,' arri villi- in San Ki-ancisco Feliruarv 28th, 1849. During this same ^ear he rctiniied home, on ax-count of the illness ol his wile. In 18")2, he returned, and after lemaining a short time, again went abroad, and remained until 18()o. when he returned, and has been in ('alifbrnia most of . tlie time since, taking care of his property and his family. But these I'ew desultory facts do no sort of justice to such a life as that of Captain Whittkll. As already intimated, he, when \q\\ \oung, manifested a decided affinity for novelties; especially did this penchant develop itself in an insatiate desire to be present at the in- itiation oi every new enterprise. In the prosecution of this peculiar and in- teresting desire, In- iurornis us that, though a mere boy. hu was ac-tually present in England, and rode on t\\v lirs.t ti'ain ol' cars that ever ran on a raihoad lor the conveyance of ])as- sengers, and that he cro.ssed tlie Athmtic m time to ride on the first steam passenger car that ever ran on an American i-ailway ; that lie went to Kurope in the first steamship that crossed the Atlantic from New York : was [lassenger in the first steamei' up the Pacific (Joast. and also in the first steamship from San Francisco for (Jhina; also, that he was present at the opening of the great telegraphic system in America, and at the inauguration of the Suez Canal, that great enterprise which shortens the distance, per ship, lietween Kurope and India many thou- sand miles. He was present and took part in founding the tt)wn of St. Paul, in Minne- sota : and wtis one of tlie first Americans permitted to visit I'ekin. the capital ol' the Ohinese Empire. where he saw (h)mestic pigeons Hying about the town, and among tiie towers of the palaces and the temples, with small musical instruments attached to their 206 FTRST STRAMSHTP PIONEERS. necks aiifl hanging upon their bre.ists, so con- striicteri iuid so arrange*li- learn by me : 1 traveled, read, and studied luiicli, to know What interests, most, mortals lii-re lielow — The present or tlie future stale, the love of self or powi'r. I'!ii\ V, tear or hale absorl)ed each waUeful hour. .\ll would teaeli, lull few would learn, and less would understand : I'hc hulk of all woidd neuhor know his (iod nor fellow - man. I>i>vi' to one another was lUH-dful, all agreed: I add, learn, labor, and irnif. and you will succeod. in thf four quarters of the worlil I have been ; The cities of Pekiii and Constantinople have seen ; On the first railway I rode Ijetbre othei's were made ; Saw the tirst telegraph operate — so useful to trade; 111 the tirst steamship the Atlantic 1 crossed ; .•^Jurt'ei-ed six shipwrecks, where many wei'e lost. After much trouble my business to fix, • My sole possession here is two bj' si.x. Born, 1812. Died, . FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 209 L. BROOKE. Mr. Brooke was a native of Montgomery County, Maryland; born July fi, 1819. After the usual opportunities for education in the private schools of his native State and in the District of Columbia, he was appointed to a clerkship in the Quarteriruister's Department of the United States' Army in Washington, where he remained until November, 1S4S, when he becuime attached to the command of Oeneral Persikkk V. Smith, in the (^lartei-- muster's Department, under Captain Eujorr. He left Washington in time to embark with his commander, in the steamer "Falcon," at New York, lor Chagres, December 1. 1S4 was present at every sitting, kept all the rei^ords. and i-etains a full copy of the same to the )jresent day. He bad been educated in the faith of bis parents, and was a strict " churchman," of the true evangelical t_\})e. Nor did be leave bis good works or his profession behind, or allow his predilections to confine him to his own- sect. Having l)een tbi- man\ years organist in one of the most prouiinent churches in New York, and, having brought a mu.sical instrument with him, he at once made him- sell' as prominent and as useful in moral and religious efforts as in those of a secular char- acter. rrjiST STEAMSHTP PIONKERfi. 215 Rev. O. Vj. Whkelek. tlie pioneer missionaiy of the Biii)tist (Jhurcli, h.iviiig organized, and erected the iirst Protestant (Jhiirch eilifice in the territorv. Mr. V.. who had. at an earlv •iXixy. become verv niiicli attached to hiiri. led the choir, and phived tlie full .service at the dedication, and continued to devote himsell. without tee or reward, as long as he remained in California, to the same (dass of services. And, though a quarter of a century has since passed, the sweet ^strains of mnsic which ■seemed to drip from his fingers, full of enthusi- asm, and to flow from his clear and highly - of mind, and such en- tei-prise of spirit, and such advantages, the reader need not be told that the quality of 22C> FIBST UTEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. goods he took with him was Uniited only hy tlie variety to be had to choose from, and the f/uaiififi/ only by tlie means at command, and the amount for which he could secure freight on the steamer. On the passage from Panama to San Fran- cisco, when all the charts that liad been fur- nished the steamer were not onW meager and defective, but absolutely wrong in their coast line and soundings, and when neither Captain, otficer. nor nuin on boaid. had ever made the tri}). so (dosel}' hugging the iron coast, and, when often everything was doubt, and every thought a conjecture, and every move a haz- ard, the large experience of Capt. IIai.ky as a coaster, his keen perception and readiness to comprehend a situation, made him a most in- valuable counselor to the commander of the steamer, and thus an object of the highest esteem on the part of all on board, wlio were acquainted with the facts. He arrived in 8an Francisco on the morning of Feljruary 28, 1849, healthy. ho])el"ul, am- bitious, intelligent, and brimful of enterprise, with capital enough to purchase property that is now worth many millions of dollars. Yet he has been for years earning his bread I)y the practice of law in the city of Los Angeles. In a recent note be says ; " M3' life in California has been a checkered one. I have been rich and 1 have been poor, and have oft repeated the change. Too much enterprise has cost me millions ; for had I properly invested, in San Francisco, the capital with which I arrived there, I should have been as rich, to-day, as our mutual friend, J.\mes Lick." And none who know him, and the cir- cumstances, will either doubt ////.v, or that be would have di^bnrned with as liberal a hand. He has l)een, and still is, one of those who do large U' for the development of the country, without sufficient attention to personal accumulation; a fault — if it be a fault — -com- mon to most jjioneers. Yet he is not the less happy nor the less useful, and should not be the less honored on this account. Wisdom sa^'s: "All honor to such men, who .sacrifice one for the good of the many." 22S FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. The Captain is now located in one of the most delightful climates, one of the most fertile districts ol" earth ; and. at full meridian of life is, with unwrinkled l)row, and un- dimmed eye, and steady nerve, and unfaltering step, and beaming nor liches," had been fully answered, were able to place their son. at an early day. in that path which has led more men to true excellence than any other — the path of honest industry. h\ this he was subjected to the rigorous culture which gives the Scotch farmer fame throughout the woi-ld. for his habits of industry, economy, and neatness — habits which have always been of incalculable value wherever aiul by whom- soever attained. To Mr. K. the\' have laid the foundation of an enlarged success during his whole course. His college was the parish school of the National Church ; and, like all other things done by the Scotch, these schools are most thorough. In the days of William and Mar\, an act was passed compelling every parish to have and maintain a school and a Frjis-r STEAMS} ftp pioyjucKs. 231 sdiucil- muster. These schools have mside Scot- -himl wise, and Scotchman a synonym for intt'lUgence in all parts of the world. Here, in one of these schools, youiiir Kem.v received tlie rudiments and maturer tlegrees of a good i)ractical education, with which, in •early life, he eml>arkcd toi' the New World, where he sought and ohtained employment as H vender of dry goods. .According to the principles of his early cidture, he a{)plied him- ■self assiduously and steadily to the husiness, as though he were to live a thousand years, and continue in this " one stay." liut, early in Decemher, 1848, the floating rumors that gold had heen discovered in Cali- fornia were confirmed by official statements • of the government ofhcers at Washington, and the whole country, especiallv the large towns, hecame filled with a desire to share in the precious haivest. Shops were sold, leased, renteil, given away, oi- closed up, and the owners seemed to have hut one desire : to get on board a steamer for (^alifornia. Keli.v set his house in order, prociu'ed his passports, purchased his tickets, and sailed 232 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. Irom New York on the steMUier "Isthmus," ti)r Chagres. December 25. 1848. Already two or three steamers and several sailing vessels had departed tbi- tlie same place, and. although the first passengers, sailing Avithout any knowl- edge of gold, had nearly a month the start, Kelly's party overtook the first, and embarked with thein in the •' Caliibrnia," at Panama, February 1st, 184'.). Reaching San Francisco, Fel)iiiary 28, 1849. Mr. Kelly resumed his former occupation ol' div goods merchant, adding thereto groceries iuid miners" su})i)lies. With a steady nerve and a brain always " in hand," he has pursued the even tenor of his way, varying his trade to catch the golden breeze, until we now find him. proltably "settled for lile," in the wholesale wine and liquor busi- ness, at 309 and 311 Fiont street, San Fran- cisco. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 233 REV. S. WOODBKIDGE, I). D. This pioneer was hoin at Sharon, Connecti- cut, June 15, 1S13 ; and, after that rigorous, physical culture, which fits tlie human frame for hard service and long endurance, he a])- plied himself to stud_y, with a view to the (iospel ministry as a life work. Having successively and honorably graduated from Union College, at Schenectady, New York, and Princeton Theological Seminary, New Jersey, he was duly ordained, and entered upon his labors, as a ministei- in the Pi-esbyterian Church. A full i)eliever in the fundamentals of Christianity, and the strong doctrines, and the rigid practices, of his church, and constitu- tionally fearless in the advocacy oi" all that he believed right, he soon attained prominence as a most practical and eflficient worker. When California was acquired by the UniteA\ breathe a prayer that it may he many years betbre his hand shall tremble, his eye grow dim, or his step falter ; that his decline of life may l)e far distant, and, when it is reached, be so gradual and so smooth, that his ushering into eternal bliss may be as gentle and as glori- ous as the rising of a cloudless uu)niiiig's sun. ■' Man vviis inai-ki'd A tVicinl, ill his irreiitioii, to liiniselt', ami may, With til ambitiou, foncoivc The greatest hlcissiiigs, and the hrighlest honors Appointed lor liini, if lie ean achieve them Tlie right and nohle w.iy." HON. JOHN MclX)UGALL. Capt. McDouGALL, !i,« he was familiarly culled, froin having (!Oiiinian»led a company and done efficient service in the war with Mexico, left his home in Indiana, with his family, went down the Mississippi, and joined the steamer " Falcon,"' leaving New Orleans Deceml>er 18th, 184S. His intelligence in mattei's peitaining to the war just closed, his extensive knowledge of Mexico and her people, and his familiarity with the Spanish language, together with a peculiarly free and easy way of communicate ing with strangers, not oidy gave him ready access to all on board, hut made him an ex- ceedingly useful and agreeable traveling com- panion. His amiable wife, hy those winning ways, vouchsafed alone to her sex, constantly held in check what might otherwise have been an undesirable degree of boldness and i>ush. soft- ened what might have been undue asperities of nature, and really toned the ci'eature down FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 243 iind toned moral virtue up, in the IiusIkukJ. to such a degree, that, as a couple, they were held in very high esteem. He was made for a leader, a captain, and could l)e satisfied nowhere hut in the lead. Taking an early and piominent part in poli- tics, lie was chosen as one oi" the representa- tives of Sacramento, in the Constitutional Convention, which met in Monterey, in 1.S4!). In that hody he occupied a c(mspicuous posi- tion, served on several oi" tlie most important committees, and was a prominent meml)er, even among the many men of mark who surrounded him. At the close of the .legitimate husiness of the Convention, the memhers resolved them- selves into a sort oi" caucus, to fix upon can- didates to fill the several positions (sreated by the Constitution they had just framed. Gen- tlemen had been agreed upon Ibr a considerable numbei- of the officers, when " Who shall l)e Lieutenant - (Governor ? " was asked. Perfetitly characteristic of the man, McDoua.4LL looked up, and, with a half yawn, said, in his pecu- liar, self-complacent and assured manner; 244 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. "I reckon I'll take that — I tlon't believe anybody else will want it." The whole thing was so ludicrously droll, that evei'v uian was thrown otf" his guard, and, in a paroxysm of jocose hilarity, Mac was permitted tt) " take that." lie was triumphantly elected, and served as President of the first Senate, with great dig- nity and propriety. At the close of (rovernor liuRNKTT's first year, he resigned, for the double reason, that he had a real taste tor a domestic, (juiet life, and iir the vexations and unrest of a political career. This ;ict placed McDouGALL in the Executive chair, where he did as much for the welfare of the State, and for the interests ot his constituents, as could have i)een reasonably expected of any man at the time and under the circuin.stances of his administration. After retiring from the gul)ernatorial otiice he was variously engaged, in his private aftairs and in political positions, everywhere acting the Ciij^tain, fighting the battle of life, until, by a stratagem of the great enemy, he was PIRSr STKAMSHIF PIONEJEES. 245 captured and, by the " pale horse and his rider," home suddenly away to the pioneer's long home. (ereeii grows llu' i^russ o'er liis grave, His virtues grow brighter with time ; Tiirough all of life's battle -storm, brave; Now, he dwells in :i stormless, unchaugeable clime. 246 PinST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. A. A. I'OKTEK. Tliis geiitleniiui is ;i ii;iti\e of Saratoga, New York, liaviug been l)oni there July 11, 1S24. After oompleting the studies usually taught in tlic coniuKm schools oi'liis native town, he availed liiniseHof the superior advantages of Bennington, \ eruiont. where he succeeded in laying the founda- tion for a future lile of intelligence and enterprise. For a few yetars after leaving school, he ])ursued the occuj)ation of clerk and book- keeper, witli success and pleasure. But eaily in December, 1S48. his mind became excited with a \ague rumor tiiat gold had been di.s- covered in ''i)aying" (piantities in the newly acquired Territory ol' Calilbrnia. Of an enter- prising and even adventurous spirit, he eagerly sought for confirmation, fully determined, if it shoidd prove true, to leave all and go at once. Nor did dame foitune keep him long in waiting. He became satisfied that if " all is not gold that glitters," there was glittering gold in California. This once settled in his mind, he lost no time and hesitated not at any sacrifice to prei)are and go. VIIiST STKAMSHIP PIONKKRfi. 247 lie left New York, December 28, 1848, per ttteiinier ''Crescent City," for Chagres, hastened across tlie Isthmus, secured a place on ))oard the pioneer steamship •'California," and reached his f^oal — San PVancisco — February 28, 1849. He has remained in San Francisco most of the time dui'injr tlie wliole twenty -five years; though enough of the earl}- yeai-s was spent in the mines to convince him that there were ■eitsiir ways to get gold than to (J'kj it. He returned to San Francisco, and resnraed his •old occupation of clerk and lx)ok- keeper. For eighteen months he served as clerk in the State Controller's otfice, and for fom- years was United States I)ra3man. In these vaiious occupations he accumulated enougli to establish himself in the business of dealing in mining stocks, in which, with varied success, he has continued till the present time. May he always be enabled to buy at the foot and sell at the top of the ever- vacillating market ; and his aticumulations thus attained finally be but a type of liis coinitless shares in a mine of endless blessedness and peace. 248 FIRST STEAMUHIP PIONEERS. B. F. lU TTKKFIELl). Among those who were "to the tore" at the dawn, and always in their phices. and steady in liahits. and frugal in hfe, Mr. Butterkield- stands second to none. (h-iginating in that town so pro1iti(j of good nioi-als and great men, (irafton. New Hampsliire. in the month of .Iidy. 1817: reared on a rugged farm of the old (iranitc State ; educated in the common school of his native town, and inured to those arduous pursuits which so(m harden the l)oy into the man, Mr. B. was a tit sul)ject for that enlarf/emeiif which a Yankee derives from a journey West and South, via the Great Lakes and the Mississippi, to New Orleans. From this point he railiated as a steamboat- man tor several years. Here the steamer •'Falcon" tbund him, Hushed with the fnllest hope and impatient of delay, when she, on her first trip to Chagres, arrived there. Having taken passage and shared the com- mon lot with the other pioneers, down through the Caribbean sea, uj) the Chagres River, on FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONKERS. 249 a mule iicross the mountiiins to Panama, along the coast per "California,"' to San P'rancisco, he passed the "fJolden Gate," at 10 o'clock a. M., February L^Sth, 1849. He had come tor the purjjo.se ot" bettering his condition b\ the accumulation of gold. Wherefore, standing not upon the "order of his going," he went directly to the "'South- ern mines, " then so prolitic of " big lumps." He directed his course to what is now Jamestown, Tuolumne County. After digging enough to commence business with, he opened a store, and commenced vending miners" suj)- plies. He still lemains there, a highly respected merchant citizen, enjoying the entire confi- dence oi" the community. He has also long enjoyed the confidence of the Federal Govern- ment, and been its servant for many years. For the last ten years he has been Post- master in liis town, and has so served tliat perhaps no man would be willing to see him leave the office unless he himself wanted it. 250 FinST STKAMNUIP PIONRRRS. FKTEK CARTER. liorii ill Kiiilstowii in IJerwickKhire, Scot- land, November KUli. I SOS, and educated in hit* native town and in Kdinburffh, Mr. Car- ter i.« to-day a striking si)ecinien of that class of rare men whtt make a practical life-motto of Paul's terse representation of his concen- trated lite: ''This one thing 1 do." He learned, entered upon, continued, and is still in, and at the head of, his profession as a book-keeper. His first four years of service were spent in the (Capital of his native country. Thence he removed to New York, where, from 1832 to IS^G, he was book -keeper for men of ))romi- nence in the commercial world. From 1880 to 1842. he continued his pro- fession in Nashville, Tennessee, whence he re- visited liis old " Scotia " home ; sailed on her " Lochs," reveled in her tjlens, mingleil in her jolly crowds, and drank in tlie landscape and the breeze from the •' ti{)s o'er highlands ;" all the while piping with a joy wliicli mme but FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 251 "Scotia" dear, knows — sweet, plaintive, thrilling "Auld Lang S^Tie." But so large a draught ot the exhilarating cup of enterjtrhe, in the New World, could not he thrown oft", and. in 1S44. he arrived in New Orleans, and continued his profession un- til the l^th of December, I84S. wlien he sailed ijv steamer " Falcon " for Chagres. en route to California. He came directly to San Francisco, and has here continued his profession tor twenty -five years. Among the many incidents in such a man's life, every way worthy of permanent record, tor the joyous humor the_\ would perj)etuate, and the salutary iutiuence they would exert upon young men. too pione to ■-.Sjjiii I'ort'vi'i- J)owii tli«' siiiiriiiir irroovfs nl' clianiji'," one highly to the credit ol Mi-. C.\rtkk, may be related here : The city government ol >:in Fiantus«:o liaii existed three years. Three successive City Con- trollers, and three successive City Treasurers had. 252 riRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. under the direction of" three successive Boards of Aldermen, issued city script and warrants, for which they hitd rendered account in their annual reports. Yet, when the tburth Board ol" Aldermen wished to know the aggregate of scrijit and wari'iuits issued 1)\' their prede- cessors, and the amount still outstanding, not one, or all. the aforesaid reixjrts or hnokx of the officers eiiatiled any one of them to leai-n the desired facts. In this dilemma they sought, and (>l)tained, the services of the staid old Scotchman — perhaps the most really expert lK)ok- keeper on the coast — Peter Carter. hi the short space of tiiirty days, he syste- matized and tabulated the multitudious mass of confused data and reports, which had iiitherto been considered "'past finding out,'" and from them presented ;t statement so concise and so conspicuous, that none could fail to compre- hend it at a glance. * The Aldermen paid him five hundred dollars for the service, the press lauded his skill, ius * At lli:il t-arly iluLe orit- niillioii two huiulroti iboii- i>aii(i (lullurs liHit been itisiied. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 253 quite equal to that of the Oriental linguist who first deciphered the hieroglyphics of pre- historic Egypt, and called upon the whole com- munity to "concur" in the "joint resolution" ■of the Aldei'uien, declaring •• Psttr Carter a .friiinp." MALA(;iII KAI;1.()X. Mr. Fai-U)N, a true .son ol the Emenild Lsle, and an lionor to the hind of his hirth, first saw those who were '* wearing of the green," in in the month oi' Aprih 181."). Witli his parents, whih' he was ([uite young, he emigrated to- New York, and passed the years of his minor- ity in the usual wav ; was apprenticed, and l)ecame master of the trade of saddler, in whicli husiness he successfully passed sev'eral A'ears. For Ills honesty and fideUty he was selected, hy the authorities of his adopted city, as keeper of tile city prison (tliis was hefore the govern- ment of the American Metropolis wore as much T'ireed as they have hxtterly done) ; in whicli capacit} he continued until he sailed for Cali- fornia, on the twenty-fifth of Decemher, 1S48, a few days after the confirmation of the gold rumors which reached the United States from the Pacific. Mr. F.\MX)N arrived at Chagres j)er steamer '' Isthmus," and crossed to Panama in time to take passage in the "' California," on her first MUST STKAMSNIP l'l<>NKF,IiS. 255 trip, and thus become one of the First Stkam- smi' I'lONKKRS. After iiiriving in (Jalilbrniii. he went to .laniestown. 'ruohinine County, and engaged in .mining until he had secured enough to phice him upon ;i fair '' starting point." when he leturned to San Francisco, wliere he was sot>n chosen the first (Jhief ot" I'olice of the city. Here liis long experience as keeper of crim- inals ill New York city, was of great service to him ill managing that class, during those turhulent times wliich chanicterized the early 3ears of that city. He was also chosen the first Chief Marshall of the city, in which capacity he served until he ciiose to retire from active lile. He then settled in that "bed of roses" — fragrant with the pei'fume of c, in Prince George County, Maryland — the hanner tohacco county of the Union — was cared lor In those who saw in the boy "'the father of a man" of mark, and who lost no oppoi'tunity to atlbrd him the means of develo{> ment. At an early day crossing the Potomac and entering a series of schcjlastic eflbrts, which extended through all the giiwlations from the primary school to tlie college, in the city of Kichmond, Virginia, he was, at twenty years of age. fully imbued with the warm patriotism of a true .Marylander, imprcjved by the high and chivalrous bearing of a noble Virginian. He believed that Texas ought t« form an integral i)art of the United States, and that firlST ST rams hip pioneers. 261 Mrxico could he comjHjUed to yield to the piiiK'.iples of justice jiiiil iwcede to the transfer. But. ill Older to l)e sure he was riirlit before takinjr a final .stand, though still in his minority, lie liroke away from home comforts, ^ne*!aine an oltject of attention. Naturally a leader, the military- authorities l!(;2 rrnsr sThAAf.sHfr pioxkkrs. readily ap|)reliou(Ie(l the lu'iit ol' liis niiud, and called liiin to ser\ ii;e in ii department where his capacities were .MlMpted to tiie iireatest usel'ulness. Illustrative ol" his special ellicieiicy wliere a |)eciiliar -'iiirt" was necessary, an incid(Mit »)c('inTed while crossing the Istlinuis, en route to Calilornia. in 1848-1). Captain KrjjoiT, of the <,)uartennaster's i)e[)artnient. to whose immediate command Ukatm was attached. while we were lyinir at Criices, and onl\- a ii'W hours helbre the Ca})tain fell a victim to that terrible scourge, the cholera, was con- versing with several of the pioneers aljout who would get across lirst. IIkath and several others, quite as well nunmted as he, had already started. The question was raiseii,. " Who will get to Panama first '!" Captaiiv Elliott, in the most positive mannei-, and with full assurance, said : " Dick Heath will l)e the first man in." The writer of this asked : "Why, Captain? Has he any better horse, or is he any better horseman, or does he know the country better than the others?" "No,'" .said the Captain, as he rose up — over iii;sT sTr.A.^fsiiir rioxi.i-.ns: uc;; ^i.\ Iwt lii,ii'li — full of ciithusiiisiii. clciicliiiiL'^ his liir.iie fist and stfetcliiiii; it out the full leiiiitli of liis hnv^ aim ilirocth' in front ami witii iii'eat Ibrce, a.s if iiiivinu an uiioxi)fi'ttMl pusli or lii(nv. saitl, in tlic most expressivi- manner: '•//'• hii.'< [inl ruis." The Captain's lireilirtion proveil true. I[i:\tm was the fh'st man to pass the gates of the citv. It was he who Ic.iJ the whole train of modern emi- gration to (Jalitbrnia within the dilapidated walls ol' the "Half-way House." With sueli (diai'iicteristic.s, it is not strange that he was ■"in the saddle" when the Mexi- can war -hioke cover" at Palo Alto, and in the front ol" the chase ''at the death." Fn short, he was all through the war which re- sulted in the lU'qiiisitic^n of California by the riiited States ; ever^whei'e intelligent ; at all times •• fbrcing the fight." Nor could such a man he allowed to detach hiinselt from the ser\ ice. He was sent, hi chai-ge of most im- portant trusts, connected with the stalf of (leneral Peksifer F. Smith, who was in the latter part of 1.S4S ordered to the command t)f the forces on the Pacific Coast. (ieneral 264 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIOJS^EEIiS. .Jessup. Quartermaster- General of the United States Army, knowinu- HKAin. selected and appointed him as Agent ol" the Quartermaster's Department tor the Pacific Division, under which appointment he left Richmond. Virginia, in time to embark, per steamer " Falcon." at New York for Chagres. December 1. 1848. At Graces, Cai)tain Eu.iorr, to whose com- mand Heath was attiiched, was stricken with cholera and died without time to dispose of even his public trusts, thus throwing u])on Heath, in the middle of a long journey and while in a foreign country, the full responsi-^ bilities of a position to which lie had not been appointed and for wliich he had liad no op- lX)rtunitv to prepare. Hut with an inherent readmesfi which had never failed him in the multitudinous and rapid vicissitudes of the Mexican war. he at once ccjmprehended the situation, straightened his massive form in the stirrups, and proved himself equal to the emergency. On shi}) or on shore, every- where and at all times, during that long and arduous pioneer trip from New York to San B'rancisco. he was pioneer, interpreter, negotia- tor, pacificator, and in all conceivable wa\.s the friend of "strangers in a strange land," and hence became a universal favorite. In testimony to his superiority, though very young in years, he was chosen a meuiber of the first Legislature oi' (Jalitbrnia. and a mem- ber of the first Council upon the organization of the city of vStockton. in 1849. In 1852 he was a delegate to tlie National C(mvention at Baltimore which nominated General WiNFiELr> Scott for the Presidency, and Wilijam A. Graham of North Carolina tbi- Vice President. In 1855 he was appointed Pilot Commis- sioner of the harbor of San Francisco, and, in 1856, was promoted to the comnumd o\' a brigade, as full Brigadier General. In 1868 he was a member of the National Democratic Convention which met in New York and nominated Horatio Sey.mour for President. During the latter year, he was also appointed Warden of the port oi" San Francisco. In all these public positions. General Heath so demeaned himself, that no whisper of un- faithfulness, or want of true devotion to the 2()(1 riliST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. inteiestts of the country, has ever teen heard. Having completed this long series of arduous public services, the (teneral has retired to a country seat, ami styles liiuiselt" a " vini- oulturist.' As soon as (urcuuistances would permit, alter coming to California, he I'eturned t« the home of his youth, and fulfdled the most important pledge of ills life, hy marrying his eai'l}' choice, with whom, and Ijy the aid of whose wise counsels and wilely care, he has often been directed and sustained in the tixing scenes through which, as a public servant, he has been called to pass. Of this wife, the (ieneral now delights to muse, as he paces the l)road \eianda of his mansion, or nnises among his vines and gar- den beds; and Well be may. ■ SIh' is iiiiiu' own ; -Anil I, iifs rioli in having riiiicli a Jowel, As iwuiily seas, it' all tlieir sand wiTo jioarl, Tiu' water noclar, ami the roi-ks ])iii'c ijolil." A beneficent Providence has blessed their union with a large family of eleven fine health- ful children, with whom they now enjoy one of FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 267 the most (lelightfully located villas, in that gem of the Pacific — Napa Valley. From tiie elevated plateau on which the famil\' mansion stands, surrounded hy an almost endless vari- ety of native and exotic trees and shruhhery, with the beautiful town of St. Helena at their leet, and the breadth of the valley beibre them, they look sun -ri.se full in the face. Few situations in life can be imagined more fully meeting all the wants of approaching age, than *' Edghill " enjoyed t)y (General Heath and his family ; a jjlace where " The niolliei-. in her office. Iiolii.s the ke3- Ot- the soul ; and she it is who stamps the coin or character, anil makes the heintc ^^l>o woiiM he a savaj^e, But tor Iht gentle caivs, a Christian man ; Then crown her riiieen of the world, " And let each of her many children say : " Me lei the tender office long engage To rock the cradle of reposing age ; With lenient arts extend a mother's i)reath, Make languor smile, and smooth the bed of death; Kxplore the thought, explain the asking eye, And keep awhile one parent from the sky." WILLIAM VAN VOORHIES. This pioneer is a Tennesseean by birth and education. He was liorn at Columbia, Tenn., June IT), 1820. He was, in an unusual degree, the <'hild of" .solicitude and care on the part of a most excellent mother, who was never weary of cultivatin'r the morals, and storing the intellect of her son. In this respect, few b(ns are so highly favored as he. Naturally, his progress wa» rapid, and he was. at an early day, found in the advsinced grades of the schools, from which he graduated with all the honors of a most liberal education before attaining his raajority. He then entered upon the study of law. in which he pursued a much more wide and extended course of collateral and general read- ing than is prescribed by the profession, or than would have been possible for one less ready of acquisition. In the midst of this course, which was more of a pastime with him than with those who consider the study of the law equal to ''eat- FIKST STEAMS JI IP PIONEEPS. 2()Vt hig saw -dust without butter." he was called to the service of the general GoverMinent, iiv the Post Ottice Department at Washington. After serving there three years, he was ap- pointed to superintend the conveyance of the first nuiil to the Pacific, under the contract of the (loverTiment with the Pacific Mail Steam- ship (.'ompany. For this purpose he left Washington, in No- vember, 1S48, in time to sail in the steamer " Falcon," from New York on the fir-st of the following month. He also took with him, as his private property, the first full set of the " United States Statutes at Large." ever carried to the Pacific Coast. He was elected a member of the first Leg- islature, from San Francisco, a post which he resigned upcjn being tendered, by Governor BuHNETT. the position of Secretary- of State. In this office he served through the guberna- torial terms of Burnett, McUougall. anie and cake, and beef ex. roufit. and chicken friean- cisco on the twent\- eight li of Februar\. After a sojourn of three days in San Fran- cisco, he started for the mines, via Stockton, in the schooner " Mary Ann." Captain Wiuj.\.m R(j.\(H. where he arrived after a passage of nine days. Left Stockton for Jamestown, in the Southern mine.s. where he arrived on the twenty - second of June, 1849. On the Fourth of July assi.«ted in raising the first flagstafl" raised in the mines, in front of the tniding post of Mr. M.\LACHi F.\LLO.v. who was then Alcalde. After many "ups and downs'" in the mines, he returned to San Francisco ui (Jctoljer, and once more engaged in the black- smith business. He met with quite heavy losses by the fires of 1850 and 1851. Re- moved to Oakland in 1853, and returned to San Francisco in 1855. Went to the Sandwich Islands ; remained there two months ; returned to San Francisco, and engaged in tlie sewing machine business for about five years, since which time he has been engaged in dift'erent pursuits. For several years he was connected with the Western Union Telegraph Company. At present he is one of the liquidating clerks in the San Francisco Custom-house. He has traveled extensively in California, having visited nearly every city and town of importance in the State. The first printing press built in San Fran- cisco was built in his shop, on Pacific street, near Montgomery, for General Winchester, of the " Pacific News." The office was on Kearny street, near Washington. Mr. Blas- DELL has the honor of doing the first piece of forging for the pi'ess, in California. FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 291 ALEXANDER AUSTIN Was born March 8, 1822, in Dumfrieshire, Scotland. His parents belonged to the old established Kirk of Scotland ; he was brought up and educated in that faith. After receiv- ing as good an education, as a first-class vil- lage school could give (and Scotland excels almost any other country in her schools), he worked on the farm until he was twenty-two years of age ; when he left for America, land- ing in the city of New York, in the montli of April, 1844. lie obtained employment in the then large dry goods' house of James Beck & Co., remaining with this firm two years, wlien he obtained a leading position in the world -re- nowned house of A. T. Stewart & Co. Remain- ing with Stew.art & Co. two years, James Beck & Co., then the vwaX of A. T. Stewart & Co., oftered a large advance of salary, which was accepted. Remaining with this firm until the month of December, 1848, he embarked for California on the twent}-- fifth of the same month, on board of the steamship 292 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. " Isthmus," via Panama ; which port he left on February 1st, 1849, on board the good steam- ship Galifonua, arriving in San Francisco, Feb- ruary 28, 1849. Next day came ashore, pitched tent in Happy V^ alley, washing and cooking tor a few days in company with some others. Started tor the diggings, via Stockton, enjoying the free life of a miner for about three months; returned to San Francisco, engaging in the building and managing of a Itakery. on the ground now occupied by the IJella Union, on Kearny street. No doubt the welcome sight of this bakery, and good, wholesome bread will he remembered by many a one, after the long and miserable voyages on jei'ked beef and wormy hard-tack. This was a success. Sold out in the month of November, 1849 : went into the grocery business, and carried on that business until the sprtng of 18') I, when he went to New York, purchased ami shipped to San Francisco a very rich and large selec- tion of dry goods, thereby establishing the house of A. Au.STiN & Co., which afterwards became so well and favoi-ably known all over the Pacific Coast. It is only within a tew months that Mr. Austin has retired from the business then estabh"shed. Diirini;- the twenty- two years in wliioh he was in Ijusiness, he experienced all the ups and downs, losses by fire, and his full share of the vicissitudes which have been so common to the '"fbrtj-niners." Conducting liis l)usiness all through on a fair and just principle, he obtained the confidence (jf the pul)lic, and was elected to the office of Tax Collector, in the fall of 1868, and has been re-elected twice by very large majorities — ft comjjliment paid to few. His present term will expire December, 1870. 294 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. HENRY FAIRFAX WILLIAMS Was born in Prince William County, 8tate of Virginia. March 2(1, 1828, and it;, consequently, now nearly forty - six years of age. His an- cestors, for many generations, were Virginia farmers, but his father resolved his children should be reared to a different calling. Being a true Democrat, in prtictice as well as theory, he deteruiined to give his l)oys inufe-t, which w;is entirely at variance with the then e.vist- ing sentiment prevailing around him. Fully realizing the curse of slavery, particu- larly in its evil consequences to the white race, he resolved that his children shoidd not be afflicted with it as he had been. With that resolution firmly established in his mind, he removed to Washington City, where he lil)- erated his slaves (something he could not do at that time in the State of Virginia, under the then existing laws) ; and, as soon as his sons, of whom he had three, reached a suita- FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 295 ble age, he apprenticed them out to learn trades. He lived to see them good mechanics, and, on his death -bed, realized the fact that the groundwork was laid for useful lives, if they but followed his counsels. His eldest son, John, had already reached manhood, and, with a moderate outfit, and a father's blessing, was told to seek a home in one of the free States west of the Alleghany mountains, which he did, in the city of Cin- cinnati. Ohio. Hen'rv, the second son, and subject of this sketch, had completed his apprenticeship at the age of twenty, and, feeling that he had mas- tered his trade, which would .serve as a certain dependence in time of need, had resolved upon securing a profession also, and entered the office of the Hon. J. M. C.^kmsle. as a student at law. Mr. C.VRLiSLE, at first, hesitated somewhat about receiving Henkv as a student, knowing he had just left a carpenter's work - bench, but finally consented to give him a trial through friendly feelings to his father, and the follow- ing letter, which was written a month later, shows with what result. 296 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEES. {Copy of letter from Hon. J. M. Carlisle to Maj. J. W. Williams) : February II th, 1848. My iJtur Sir : — It may be some satisfaction ibr you to hear that I am extremely content witli your son, and that I have great confi- dence in his making himself, in due time, nuister of his profession. He is regular, atten- tive, and studious, and is worthy all the care and attention which can be bestowed on him. Very trulj yours, J. M. Carlisle. MaJ. Williams. But HkxN'rv had only got fairly started in his new pursuit when the unexpected demise ol' his father entirely frustrated his plans, and the absolute necessities of the case required him to abandon his books for his tools, which he had so recently laid aside. He had to do so, not only to provide for 1 is own wants, but also to assist in the maintenance of his mother and sisters. The following strong letter from Mr. Car- lisle to Henry, upon his retiring from his FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 297 office, shows what progress had been made in a few months by the young carpenter. "WASHJNfiTON, Nov. 27. 1«4«. " Mr. Henry K. Williams has been readmg law in my office for nearly a year past, and I heartily regret that his changed circum- stances, consequent upoji the death of his re- spected • father, have obliged him to abandon a profession which he had chosen, and to fall back for the present, upon a trade in which he had been instructed, partly for the pur- pose of strengthening his physical constitution, and partly to serve him as a rearguaid as it must now do. " As he may fall in with friends of mine, or persons who know me by name, I have ofiered him these lines, as a testimonial of the sincere interest I take in his welfare ; an in- terest, founded not only upon his amiable quali- ties and excellent capacity, but upon a thorough knowledge of his perfect integrity and upright manliness of heart. " I sincerely hope it may be the means of gaining for him the friendly countenance of 298 riR.ST HTF.AMSHII' PKiMRKRS. anv friend or af.qiiaiiit.ince of mine to whom he miiv exhibit it. ■ .1. M. Carusij-;."" Finding it nec'^ssjiiv to resume his trade, and seeing hut a poor field for operations if lie remained in Washington, he resolved to emigrate, and liis attention was drawn to California. He. and three other \oung me- chanics, left Wiishington. November 2!^. 184S, for Sail Francisco. ea<*h provided witVi a chest oi tools. Thev sailed from New York. Dec. I. 1S4een so gi'eat a success, financially, as the ertbrts which have been expended upon it ."hoiild have siuaranteed. The laws for the tioUection ol street assess- ments have been so defective, that the Com- pany has lost ver\- largeh' by l)ad del)ts. aiid the preju and .'U, 1874, upon till- siil))e('t ol' stivet pavements, is re- j^jirded, In almost every one who has read it. as the al)lest paper wliich has appeared here ii|)i)n the siil))ect. and has caused \erv many ol" oiir citizens to eiitindy reconsider former conelusioiis npon the subject. Mr. Wii,i,i VMS is a man of indomitable will and untiriiiji' energy, and is justly regarded, by the citizens of San Francisco, as being en- titled to a front rank amcmg the "live men" of the city. And his strict integrity of piu'- pose is conceded by all who know liim. When [*rofessor (). C. Fowi.ek was lecturing n this ('ity, a few \cars since, upon the sub- ject ot phrenology to a crowded house, Mr. W. was selected by the audience for a public examination ; and the truthfulness of the Profes- sor's delineation of his character was attested to by many rt)unds of applause. He characterized Mr. W. as a m;in of the strictest, integrity, and one oi' the most energetic men he had met in forty years' e\- j)erience. Mr. W. has never consented to run for, or ofcn|)\. u |)iil)lic i)lHce of ;iiiy kind. cNccpt tor ;i siiiiik- ti'i'in as Sclimil Director. iVoiii the elexxMitli tli.-tricr. and |io>iti\clv retiised to i-uu a second time tlioiiu'li iirjicd to do so bv hotli ])olitieais. He is a member ol' tlie Kpiscopal ('hurch. and has, for many yeais. been a vestrvinan of (iraee Church. He is a useful man and a good citizen in the fidlest a.ccei)tation of the term, tor he is not only alwa\s acti\ely and usefnlU ein- j>l(»yed himself. I.)ut has seldom less thaji a himriivd. and soiuftiines as high as a thousaiK] men. eniploved in carrying ont his extensive phms for (dtv iinprovenicnts. It is elsewhere in this work said that Mr. Williams was. while in his minority, standing ill the front rank as an architect. A fact or two will illustrate : While in his nineteenth year, an apprentice in the ortice of Joel Dow- ner, master - carpenter of the General Post- Oihce building at Washington, Mr. Dow.vkr gave him the severest test, for a boy, within his power, viz.: To construct a stair- case with continuous rail. He drew his lines on a board and showed them to his boss, who, at om^e pronoun(!ed tlieiu in-oii;/, and tried to convince the boy, l)ut lie insisted he was right. Finally his master ordered him to ''plane ofl" his marks^ and make his drawing right." HENur obeyed, but, knowing he wrts right, exactly re- produced his drawing. The master, with well- feigned anger, severely upbraided him, and again made every possible effort to convince him that he was wnm;/. But, finally, find- ing him immovable, he smiled and said : "Yes, Henry, you are right, and were so at first ; I FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 305 was only trying to see if you knew you were right. You are hereafter foreman of my men" — a position to which both apprentices and journeymen said he was fully entitled ; and which he held, until released from further ser- vice, with the strongest testimonials that Mr. Downer could write. While in this capacity, drawings for the con- struction of the large Custom House, proposed to be erected in New Orleans, were presented to the Secretary of the Treasury. But lie, an old man unskilled in drawing, could not un- derstand "how the building would look." The architect took his drawings to young Williams and said : '" Can you make a model from these drawings, ten feet to the inch ?" "Yes, sir," was the boy's prompt reply. In a short time the work was done, and presented to the venerable Secretary, who looked with deep interest while he took oft' each successive story, beginning at the top, showing every room, hall, door, closet, vault, and counter, in miniature, and explained the relations of each to the other. The Secretary saw it all, approved the plans, and made the 306 riMST STKAMSHIP PIONEERS. awjird. In coiit^equence of this, Williams was oifered liigher salary to remain in New Or- leans and superintend the erection of the build- ing, than had ever before been paid in the profession, wliich, however, he declined and pur- sued his way to his chosen home on the Pacific. •' Mfcliaiiics : — J'o ^oui' liancis we owe, VVhalevor \v»' liehold helow. From Nature taken ami ilesifjneil To suit the ever i-liaiioing iiiind. * * * * Our State. iSo young, ami yet mo proudly >;reiit. In peace or war, and always true, •Support, ilet'ense, demandn of you ; Ami all who love the Union, pray That, till earth shall pass away. Her stroiij; -armed sons may ever be [iKlustrious. honeet, brave, and tree." FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONKRRS. 307 (). C. WHEKLKK. This fientleiuiin writes us that he is " too busy with work more important to the [)res- ent generation, to furnish us with anv extended tioten of his life. " Yet. one who has been so constantly and so prominently in public service, as he has. for twent\ -five years, cannot hide himself if he would. Much of his career, yea, msiny of its de- tails are familiar as household words to all old settlers possessing even a modicum of in- telligence. We are. therefore, able to state more facts concerning hiin than of most oth- ers who have furnished us with the same amount of data. He was born in the township oi' Wolcott, (now Butler,) Wayne Co., N. Y., March 13th, ISlfi — the tenth of a family of twelve chil- dren. Ushered into life amid the raw. haish winds of March — alwa\s rough in that dis- trict — of that coldest of all seasons, ever yet experienced in that State, and. subjected to all the rigors and privations incident to a i ;^08 FJRNT .STEAMSHIP PJONEKKS. large family in a new countrv. with little or nothing in store, it is no wonder that he never attained more than five feet two and a half inches in hight. and, until past the mid- dle of life, was of slender mould and delicate health. CircumstaiK^es hinted at above deprived him ol" educational advantages, except in a very limited amount, until he attained his majority. Leaving home at about twenty-one, lie deter- mined to make it his first business to secure the most thorough edueati(m the schools of his <'Oimtry could furnish. How daring such a resolution was, and what it cost to carry it out. may be surmised when the reader is told that, on leaving home to enter u])oii this task, he had onh .^7i cts. iu money, onl\ one suit of /Kj/ited/mii clothes, and ver\ poor health : that he worked his own way. pursued an entire eight \ears" course, at Madison Ihiiversity, graduating with honor, from both the college proper and the Theo- logicid Seuiinarv. Tua,rrie(i aMlli>.r of sui)enor excellence. She lived to bless him and their son and daughter until July. l.Sli'J. when ileath relieved her from a long and painful illness. Few women have done a.s much good in the world, and none made less enemies than she. Ksjjeciallv was her course marked with great good intluences while she was the only female missionary here, and multitudes of men. awa\- from home, anxong strangers, were sick anil dvin.--. Her visits to such as they lay in tents and under the hushes on the hills where the great City of San Francisco now stands. will long be iememl)eied by those who sm-vive. and are recoi'ded in heaven in lie- half of rliose who there bade her and eartli. at once, a long farewell. Mr. Wheeler was ordained as a Minister of the (iospel at East Crreenwich. R. I., where he became the first pa.'^tor of the Baptist church, in two \eai-s a fine house of worship had 810 J-7h'ST STh:AMSHIP PIONEERfi. been erected, iind such success had attended his hibors tliat he was called to a much more important field in Jersey Citv. N. J. Here he ibund his denomination. h\ previous maladministration divided into three rival, not to say hostile, bands. In eleven months he had succeeded in disbanding all three of the organizations, and in organizing one good, strong l)ody from tlie l)est material found in all the church, ol' which his successor. Rev. Dr. Parmly. is still pastor. He had .secured a good brick chapel, had a large congregation and was antici])ating much from so pleasant a be- ginning, in such a favored loeality. when the Secietary of the American Baptist Home Mi.ssion Society, on the first of Nov., 1848, called u])on him and ' said : " We want you to go to Calilornia, as our Pioneer Missionary." Mr. Wheelek replied : " I have been less than a year here and things are in such a shajje that I would not exchange my pulpit ibr any other in the United States. / cannot e- cmist things are in such shape in your church that we wish you to go ; and we think you FIRST STEAMSHIP J'JOMEKliS. 811 niiif't. " •' No. sir I I "/// //n/ Icnn-." was tlie jK)sitive reply <>f the youiiir man. 'J'liis first intfiview was daily repeatefl witli such varia- tiiHis. in motives preseiittMi as the Sefretar\ aiKi liis associates thought best adapted to se- ciirt' tiieii" oliject. lor .si.r/cr/i cla\s, diiriiiii whie.li iiimil)ers ol' the most iiitiueiitial clergx- men of tlie (ienouiiiiatioii l)i'ouglit their i)ithi- eiiee to hear uj)on him, and at the end of wliicli he \ielded. The Secretary said at once, ■■ liet us go to the steamer and secure \our state-room. " Alter the room was selected, the Seci'etary, addressing the (Japtain, said, " You sail., as per ailvertisement. Dec. 20th, 1 sup- pose?" ".No." said the Captain, "orders are changed: we shall .sail December 1st.'" "Is that jMisitive ■'" said the Secretary. '•■ Ahsoluteh'." .said the Oaptain. it was then November Kith. 11 .V. \i. The Se(-retary, with sad countenance, turned to Mr. W.. and .said: "Then, you cannot go; you cannot getreadv." I'o whi(di the young man instantly re- plied. ••Yes, sir I .\fter the sacrifice of teeliny; I have elidin-ed to yield this point, rather than gi\e it up. i would start to-morrow 812 FTRST STRAMSHfP PIONEERS. morning." " But your wife will have to re- reiuiiin '! She certainly cannot get ready." "' She irlll." finished the argument. Mr. Whkkler was thus the chosen, ■•mle representative of his denomination, then num- bering over one million of communicants in the Ignited States, to carry, set up, establish and maintain their institutions on a dis- tant coast, at a time and under circum- stances unparalleled in the history of the world. The very day the decision was made, the veneral)le Dr. S. H. Cone, pastor of the First Church, New York, and Pi'esident of the Society that was sending him. said to Mr. VV^. : ■' Do \(»u know where you are going. m\ brotliei' ".' 1 would rather go as a missionary to China, or ('ochin-China. than to San Francisco. Don't you stir a step, unless \ou are prepared to gt) to the darkest sjiot on enrth" Whether they had chosen a man of enerijy, equal to the occasion, may be judged by the f;u3t that, within the fryiirteen days, he resigned his pastorate, closed up all his business for life, made a trip to Philadelphia, preached ten sermons, delivered three nddresse.s, superin- tended his entire outfit, and wus, with his wife, on l)oard the steamer " Falcon " one hour before she sailed, at 12 m.. December 1, 1848. On the voyage and at the several stop[)ing places, Mr. and Mrs. Whkei.ek. whenever not confined with seasickness, were ever ready to minister to the comfort of" the sick, the con- solation of the dyinfi, and the proper Chris- tian burial of the dead. He also bore a large share in the leligious e.\erc.ises. and won the golden opinions of the wise and the good. At one time, while in the Pacific, oil" the (iulf of Tehuantepec, during a furious storm, he and his wife both remained in their state- room, unable to leave their berths, forty -eight hours, without seeing waiter, steward, or any other being. This was a trial of patience which, coupled with stmie other inconveniences that lie thought tpiite unnecessary, caused him to write some things Ibi- the Kastern press which were regarded as quite severe, and which he now thinks " did no good." Having shared in all the vicissitudes of the 314 FIBSr STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. hinety days" voyage, I'lom New York to Chagres per steamer " Falcon." from ChagreH to Cruces in a dug-out, from Cruces to Panauia on the hurricane deck of a mule, and from Panama to San Francisco on the steamer "California," where lie landed Fehruary 28, 1849. he at once surveyed the ground — morally — laid his pUins, and in a comparatively few hours was at his work. He soon commenced preaching in the private dwelling of Mr. (1 L. Ross, and propcjsed to organize a Sabbath School, to which severa! parents had agreed to send their children, iiut untoward circumstances, for which Mr. W. was in no way responsible, having ari.sen, when the hour arrived, only out- — a little bov, son of Hon. .Ioiin W. (Jeakv, late (rovernor of Pennsylvania — came. Here was a novel sight, a Sabbath school with two teachers — • Mr. and Mrs. Wheklkk — and one xi-lialnr. This continueicef< do not all pertain to money. This is the oldest Sabbath School in California. In a few weeks, he formed a church of si.x members ; and, in July, of the same year, bought a lot where the First Baptist Cliurch ai6 FIRST STKAMSHJF PfONKEHS. now stands, on Wasliiiiffton street, at .$10,000; cleared off the slinibs, bored the first hole, and iniide the first mortice in the frame with his own hands, ami did not fail to be daily about the work; and, in twenty- two workinj^ (lays, completed and dedicated the first Pro- testant (dinrch edifice in (Jalitbrnia. It was a simple fitriK^ture. thirty liy fifty feet, framed of three - by - lour inch scantlinj; ; twelve feet posts, covered with clapi)oards. unplaned, six inches wide itnd lour feet Icjiifi : the roof be- in^ made oi' the old tbresails of a !)rig then in the harbor. The interior was lined with common unbleached cotton, and the seats were of the simplest and most piimitive structuie. Yet the cost was over $0,000 in gold. At the dedication, Mr. W. was assisted bv the pastors of other churches : and Dem^oii Caldwell, of the Hresbyterinn ('hurch, pas.sed the i)late l()r the (•ollecti(m in one of the aisles, and. before he got through, the plate was full and the coin began to fall oil upon the floor. The house was often full, with no female pres- ent except the preachers wife. After a few months, Mr. .Iohn C I'ki.ton, a j^rnxT sTKAMsmr i'ionkkhs. 317 t«iK;lier ol' ex]x?iieiii-.ej from Massachusetts, said to Mr. \\ . : ■• If you will let me have the use of your church, without rent. I will o|)en and keep a /rtf s'hoiJ in it." M)-. W. .said. •' ajrreed." The arranj^ement was consummated, and thus this church became the home, and Mr. Pklton the teacher, of the A'/V /rfti >«;/ioo( on the Fa<'iti<> (!oii.st ; an enterprise which, under the intellifjent manipulation of (Jol. T. .1. Nkvins and others, was finally developed into the nof)le ■\//.-^c)n's regiment of \()hniteers, from the excess- ive circumstances surrounding them, fell sick and died. Mr. Whkki.kk writes : •* We often Ibuiid them and others undei' miserable tents, iir under bushes only, without even a blanket, in the \cr\ act of liyinir. or already jrone." Mrs. \\'kkki,ek. like an amrei oi" merc\. was idwa\s with him. with some delicacy lor the bt>d\ of those vet able to receive it. and a 318 PIRSIT STEAMSHTP PIONERRS. word of" oonsolation iiiul cheer for those ready to depart. How tliis lahor was regarded, hv those wlio looked on, is indicated by the fol- lowing brief" address, bv (Jol. Steaenson to Mr. Wheeler, on presenting liini with the best gold watch and cliain to be had on the Coast : " Revtieiiil Sir : — iMa , late companions in arms, who are now before vou, have requested me to present you this watch, as a mark of their persoiud regard tbi- your character as a man. and a mini.ster ol" the sacred re- ligion oi" our Savioi'. The law of our coun- try which called the 1st IJeg't of New York Vohniteers into service, made amjjle provision lijr food and raiuieut to lit the body of the soldier tor the soldiei's toil ; made liberal provision for the best of medical attendance for the di.seased or wounded body, but made no piovision for the administration of holy consolation to a mind diseased. And, while the regular soldier, nearer home, was abund- antly supjjlied with gentlemen of your pro- fession, to soothe and comfort them in the hour of" sickness and death, we, sir, were FIHST S'l'F.AM.'b'BIP I'lONKKHS. 819 ordereil ii|ii>n ;i loiijr iUid jicrilous* vtnage, to iinade a stianjre lan.l. wll()^^e inhabitants did not speak our lanjjuage. and whose htws tol- erated iK^ relijiion l>ut its owji : and where the dead were denieti the privilege of hurial in <-onse<.rateil giinind. unless tliev wei'e of the religion of the coinitrx we invaded. Hence, sir. we were witho\it a holy eoniforter. in whose pia\ers the most protligate and aband- oned find comfort and eonsolation in a dying boor. You, sir, since your arrival in this })iace, ba\c bud tx-easion to meet and associ- jite witli many ol' the soldiers of my late <-ommaiiil, and can beai- testimony that the_\' are uot tbe protligate and abondoned crew tbey bave been represented by the press of tbeir native land, ami as some few here woulii l>elieve. "True, sir, some ol them have forgotten their duty to tbeir (iod, and their tellow-num; but tbe laws the\ have violated, have been amph- Aindicated. and they have atoned, and are now atoning for tbeir ;u-ts of tolly and wick- edness. Hut. sir. of tbe great mass of the men who cojuposed that regiment. I caji 320 FIUST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. s])eiik from personal observation. And, sir, of tliese before you, a large portion left our na- tive land with me. and were mv companions while on service. And i will sav here and elsewhere, that 1 want no truer hearts or nobler spirits; no firmer friends, or better men for my companions and friends. •'■ For you. sir, they have c(mceived a warm attachment, unsolicited, and almost unknown to you. You sought out their sick companions, soothed and calmed with pious care and holy admonitions the troubled spirit, watched by them in their hours of sadness and pain, soothed in the hewn" of death, received their last sigh as the spirit took its flight to the God who gave it, and. finalh. performed the last sad office man can pay to his fellow — following his body to the silent tomi). For these acts of Christian benevolence and kindness, we honor and respect yon. Every member oi' my late command have a hold upon my aft'ections almost as strong as the ties of parental love, for if any of them ever failed in their duty to others, they were ever faithful to me. I, therefore, most cordially FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 321 unite with them in their strong expression of affectionate regard for your person and charac- ter, and for myself, and them, desire you to wear about your person this small token of a soldier's gratitude .and love." The surprise was entire. Mr. W. had not the remotest idea that he had thus attracted attention, or was to be thus rewarded. In October of 1849, the first Baptist Society, of which he was pastor, resolved to assume his entire support, thus relieving the treasury of the society that had sent him out. In order to do this intelligently, they appointed a committee of three gentlemen, each having a family, and keeping house in the city, and each a thorough business man. They, from their own bills, itemized their necessary month- ly expenses, and presented a report, the origi- nal of which is still in Mr. Wheeler's hands, that it would necessarily cost at least ten thousand dollars ; whereupon the Society resolved to pay their pastor ten thousand dollars a year, gold, and that it be paid monthly in advance. At the end of five months times had so changed, 322 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. and the cost of living so diminished, that Mr. Wheeler voluntarily asked the Society to re- duce his salary to just one half what it had been, and he would subscribe and pay toward that sum twentj-five dollars per month. On the 27th of February, 1850, "The Pa- cific Tnict Society," auxiliary to the American Tract Society, was organized under the labors of Col. T. J. Nevins, agent of the parent society. Mr. Wheeler was unanimously elected Presi- dent, and continued to be thus re-elected un- til his removal to Sacramento rendered it im- possible for him to serve. Col. Nevins was tlie Corresponding Secretary and active work- ing man, while Mr. Wheeler's influence and energy added greatly to the efficienc\- of the institution. We ai"e the more iiarticular to note his connection with this institution, because the ])onderous volume the •* Annals of San Fran- cisco," almost the only work yet pretending to give a history of the early men and times of San Francisco, after passing by Mr. Wheelers labors in various connections, either in entire silence, or with the faintest possible FIBST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. 323 reference to them, here entirely igtwres him and places in his stead a man who was not elected until he (Mr. Wheeler) had served for years and resigned, as above indicated. During the winter of 1850, Mr. W., being in San Jos^ for a few daj's, the Legislature — being then in session there — had under consideration a bill upon the subject of divorce, which had passed the Assembly, and been referred to a Committee in the Senate ; the Committee applied to Mr. W. to preach a sermon on the subject on the following Sab- bath ; they, in the mean time, withholding action. This request came on Friday at 8 F. M. He had never heard or read a dis- course of any kind on the subject. His library was fifty miles distant, and he knew of no available source of assistance. He took till 9 A. M. of the next day to answer, then said " 1 will try." He spent . the day among the small family libraries in town, trying to find something on the ' subject, but faileiL At 7 : 30 p. M., he took a sandwich and a mug of cold tea, pen, ink, and paper, and went to his room. Such was the confidence of the FIBSr STEAM&HIP PIONEERS. L Senate Committee, in his ability, that ihey ar- ranged for the printing of the discourse before they heard it. At midnight the printer called for the MS., supposing it was done. Mr. W. handed him the sheets already written, and went on with his work, which he com- pleted at a quarter past eight Sunday morning, ate his breakfast, and filled, at half past ten, an api)ointment to dedicate a church ; at half past 2 p. m. delivered liis divorce sermon to a congregation which filled the house, and stood outside in greater numbers than could get in. including nearly every one of the State officers and members of tlie Ijegislature ; and then, l)efore going to sleep, addressed, in the evening, the quarterly meeting of the Pa- cific Tract Society. We need not say that the bill passed in accordance with the Scripture law. laid down in his discourse. During the following sea.son, news came of the death of General Taylor. President of the United States. At the close of the moining service of the following Sabbatli, he announced, for the next Sabbath a. m., a funeral sermcn on the death of the President. As tlie con- Pmsr STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 825 grefjiition were dispersing, Mr. Ross, elsewhere referred to, said : " Parson, it" you are going to do that, this house must he enlarged ; for it is crowded on oonitnon occasions. " And, before the next Saturday night, an addition of twenty -five by forty feet was added to the church, seated, and all complete. The Pacific Mail Steamship Company, though regarding the Sabbath, elsewhere had given ex- press orders to have their ships leave San Francisco on the fi.ved day of the month, without reference to the Sabbath. And when appealed to by their agent here, replied that their practice could not be modified without orders from the Postmaster General, with whom they had contracted to leave with the mails on given days of the month. The Agent, Captain Knight, came to Mr. Wheelek, explained the situation, and said : " I want you to write and pretw^h a ser- mon on Sabl)ath observance that I can pi'int, and send it to Washington, to aid us in get- ting the Postmaster General to modify' his ordi'r." Mr. W. wrote and preached, and 326 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. Captain Kxight printed, and sent the sermon to Washington. And, as soon as a return mail could come, orders were received that, "hereafter, when sailing day falls on Sunday, dispatch your steamer on Saturday, the pre- ceding day." Mr. Wheeler, by previous appointment of the citizens, delivered, from the Plaza, to as- sembled thousands, the first Fourth of July oration ever heard in California, which was published at public expense, and has been quoted from scores of times. His untiring energy, and almost exhaustless powers of endurance, enabled him to prepare such discourses, both sacred and secular, and his rare powers of oratoi-y enabled him to so deliver them that he soon became a universal favorite, and was called upon, not only on nearly every public occasion at home, but ofteii to make long journej's into the interior, to address his fellow citizens and advance every moral and leligious enterprise. Perhaps no man was ever oftener called upon for " a copy for i>ablication" than he was for the first few years, and until his health gave way. Plimr STEAMSHIP PIONEEKS. 327 Tlie Society that sent liiiii here promised him •' an assistant by next steamer, if pos- siljle ; " but he remained and fought the battle twenty montlis before their first ••assistant" reached the field. Such an herculean task, under such trving (urcumstances, liad never before beeJi laid on one man's shoulders: and yet he stood it, without once shrinking. His "instructions," when leaving, were, to •'give much attention that the educational institutions of the country be carefuU}' inaugurated and assiduously fostered, ' which he has scrupulously and practically followed to the present hour. In 1850 he and H. H. Haight, our late (iovernor, were candidates for the chair of the Grand IJi vision of the Sons of Temperance. Mr. H. beat him by one vote, but never officiated ; .so that Mr. W., ijeing the .second officer, filled the chair ol" that honorable body during the first year of its e.\istence, attending iiiid addressing eiich of its quarterly meetings in a different part of the State. lie was also early identified with the Masonic fraternity, and having passed all the degrees, including those of knighthood, and 328 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. officiated in almost all "stations" and "chairs," is highly esteemed thi'oughout this venerable and noble brotherhood. The unwarrantable drafts made upon him during the first five and a half years prostrated his nervous system, and laid the foundation of disease in the throat which has for years en- tirely incapacitated him for public speaking. Earh- in 1852 he removed to Sacramento, took charge of the church, and published and edited the first religious paper of his denomi- nation on the coast. The first ^ear it cost him three thousand dollars more than the receipts, beside all his labor. In April, 1854, hoping to find relief in le- laxation, he resigned his pastorate, and visited the Eastern States. How much relaxation he had may be imagined, when we know that, the next day after his arrival, he was called upon for active duties in the national anni- versaries of his denomination, in Philadelphia ; and, as soon as those were through, for simi- lar labors in Richmond, Virginia, that he was called upon to address the President, Cabinet and members of Congress in the hall of the FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 329 House of Representatives, at Washington, un the first Sabbath evening it was ever opened for such a purpose ; that he was then sent for, to address religious anniversaries in New York and Boston and the State of Maine ; that, during the four months he spent there, he traveled for the Society that originally sent him out, in eleven of the States, and in Can- ada and New Brunswick, over six thousand miles; and, when he re -embarked for Califor- nia, had spent an aggregate of only sixteen days in visiting and traveling among all his numerous relatives and friends. He returned somewhat improved, except in his throat. That had been damaged be- yond repair. It soon began to ulcei'ate, and, with varying effect, continued to grow gen- erally worse for fifteen years, during all which time he refused ■permmtent secular business, in the hope that he would, eventually, recover, and be able to finish his days in his chosen profession. But, in 1869, the malady increased rapidly, rendei'ing it impossible to continue, and he permanently abandoned all efforts in that direction. 330 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEfiS. Before his return from the East, in 1854, the State Agricultural Society, then just or- ganized, had elected him Secretary. He served one year, and then declined a re-election, un- less the Society would establish itself and en- able him to secure some degree of permanence to the results of his laboi'. This was not ac- ceded to, and, during the year 1856, he was only an unofficial aid to the work. The next year they acceded to his proposition, and he accepted of their unanimous election, and en- tered upon the work, which resulted in giving the Society better accommodations, a moi-e per- manent home, and more extensive grounds and property, than any similar institution in Amer- ica. And this was its condition, when, in 1863, he resigned, and accepted the position of chief clerk of the Legislative Assembly. To this po- sition he was elected without an opposing vote. During the whole session, of some hun- dred and twenty days, he was piesent at every roll-call, and at every adjournment, and was not once out of the House five minutes, while in session. At the close of the session, he was presented with a handsomer testimo- FIBST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. 331 nial than has ever been received by any other occupant of the position, and was called upon to address the House. The only member who did not vote for Mr. Wheeler when he was elected, said, on the last day of the session : " I did not vote for Mr. Wheeler becau.se of political reasons — did not vote at all ; but I regret it. and if it was to do again, 1 should give him ni}- most hearty support." At the close of this service he wa.s called upon, entirely unexpectedly, to take charge of the Fourth Collection District of Internal Rev- enue, in California, then covering more territory than any other in the United States. While successfully engaged in this important work, he was solicited to go to San Fran- cisco and take charge of the interests of the United States Sanitary Commission on this Coast. Dr. Bellows, the President of the Com- mission, had been here for several months, and collected so many and so lai'ge amounts, that it was supposed the work was nearly done, or, at least, all but small matters. Mr. W. at once entered upon the task of systematizhig the work. Within ten months from the time 332 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. he entered the office, he had organized three hundred and five " Soldiers' Aid Societies," generally on the basis of a minimum contri- bution of tea cents a month, bj^ each member, and, from these sources, had collected and sent to the Commission in New York over $197,- 000 ; and, on settlement, his books balanced to a cent. In 1869, he was called upon to bury his most excellent wife, with whom he had spent almost twenty -four years of a happier married life than is the fortune of most men. This so prostrated him that, for a long time, both he and his children thought he would tsoon follow her. But he recovered, and, in 1871, was solicited, by the Central Pacific Railroad (Jompany, to organize and build up their work in the department of baggage — the eftbrt hav- ing failed in the hands of three men, who had previously been successively engaged for the purpose. He found the whole department in a state of the most utter demoralization and confusion. He brought to the work all the powers of his pecvdiarly analytical, syste- matic, and organizing mind, and achieved such FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 833 success that, in the spring of 1878, the Com- pany dispatched him on a tour of inspection and examination, giving him a curte hlanche as to where he should go and when return. He passed through twenty -six States and Ter- ritories, and the Dominion of Canada, making a journey of over nine thousand miles ; vis- ited, minutely examined, and took full notes of, the working of every prominent railroad in North America, and was back in his office in just fifty -e'ufhi days. About one hundred and fifty - five men, scattered over two thousand miles of railroad and steamboat lines controlled by the Company, now report to him every day the check at- tached to every piece of baggage they handle, where and by whom issued, by whom and where carried, and to whom delivered. These reports aggregate about three hun- dred and fiftA' per day. And yet his analy- sis is so thorough, and his system of filing so perfect, that he can put his hand upon any- one of them in less than half a minute, if within the current month ; and in less than two minutes, if within the last two years. 334 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. He is also, by this thoroughness of analysis and system of record and filing — a great part of which is his own invention — doing his work with Mty per cent, less help, than any other general baggage office in America does an equal amount. Another fact growing out of his peculiar efficiency, is that for more than two >ears he has found every piece of stray baggage, so that the Comi)any has not had a dollar to pay for baggage, unless it was utolen or destroyed by accident. In April of 1872, Mr. Wheeler was married to his second wife, Miss Ellen R. Frlsbie, of Quincy, 111., a woman of inestimable worth in every department of life every way worthy of such a husband. And it may not be amiss to say, that to her pen, and to her untiring energy, the "First Steamship Pioneers " are very largely indebted for every merit in the literary department of this volume, except this article. ' To train the foliage o'er the snowy lawn ; To guide the pencil, turn the tuneful page ; To lend new flavor to the fruitful year, FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 335 And lighten nature's dainties, in their race To rear the graces into second life ; To give society its highest taste ; Well-ordered home man's best delight to make And hy submissive wisdom, modest skill, With every gentle care - eluding art. To raise the virtues, animate the bliss, And sweeten all the toil of hunjan life : — This be the female dignity and praise." 336 FfRSr STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. The two following sketches were received too late for any sort of revision b}^ the Editing Committee, and are hence given as written bv the gentlemen themselves. e'- EDWIN L. MORGAN Was born at Radnor, Pennsjlvania, July 27, 1824 ; was reai-ed in Philadelphia among the "Friends"; educated to the mercantile busi- ness. Left New York, per steamer "Crescent City, " December 23, 1848, for San Francisco, via Chagres and Panama. The following communication received as our work is nearly through the press, leaving us no time to do otherwise, we print it as he wrote it : Philadelphia, January 7, 1874. Mr. 0. C. Wheeler : Dear Sir — Your circular of December 24, 1873, came to hand this morning. It has given me much pleasure, as it recalls to mind many recollections of young and happier years enjoyed in passing through scenes, though sometimes rough ; yet I am thankful that kind Providence has thus far spared me, and blessed me also; so that, now, in the enjoyment of good health, and all that man need wish for, I can sit down to answer. The questions propounded in your circular, 80 far as relates to place of birth, occupation, etc., before leaving for California, are stated, which is returned with this. I left New York on the twenty- third of December, 1848, in the steamship "Crescent City," Captain Stoddard. Those who were traveling companions may recollect, when off Cape Hatteras, in the Gulf Stream, on Christ- mas, our first impressions on witnessing a gale. While, out of one hundred and thirty passen- gers, very few were able to reach the deck ; and that few on their hands and knees, until they could lay hold of a belaying- pin, and finally grasp the shrouds ; and then, with fearful, sinking hearts, for the first time be- held an angry ocean. While thus despairing, out of sight "of land, with every wave appiv rently about to overwhelm us, dread of sinking 338 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. every moment, old Captain Stoddard came out from his room on the upper deck, with a peculiar, mischievous smile on his face, greeted us with : " Good morning, gentlemen. I tvish you a merry Ghrwtmas." There were but ten of one hundred and thirty on deck. "God knows," I never can forget the Captain, for his cunning smile and merry greeting. We had all forgotten, amidst our fears, that it was Christmas. The assurance conveyed to us through his countenance gave us strength. We began to see the vessel riding the waves, like a duck on a mill pond ; and, getting our sea -legs on, began to venture round the quarter- fleck. While thus making ventures, the writer, holding on to the shrouds, was suddenly hor- rified with the cry, "Man overboard.'" Quick as thought, my eyes were turneii in the direction of the sound, and no one can imagine, far less describe, my feelings when .seeing a man in the stormy waves, rapidly going astern. An old sailor, standing near me, at once caught a small bench, and threw it with all his strength towards the floating man. With like instinct, I threw hiui a stool. which I had managed to get along with me to the shrouds ; and soon some of the others threw stools. We watched, with much anxiety, the result. And, strange to say, while some- times out of sight, at others just passing over the top of a wave, the poor fellow had caught the bench. The life - boat was lowered ; Captain Fowler (a Boston pilot), one of the passengers, took command. They reached the drowning man. He proved to be the steward of the vessel, who, having gone into the ])rivy (several of which had been erected by the wheel-house, inside the guards), by a sudden heavy sea he had been carried by the torrent from the privy seat clear over the guard.s into the boisterous waves. After this our voyage was pleasant ; reached Chagres January 2, 1849, and arrived in Panama January 6th. All the time fearing we should fail to connect with the steamship ■•' California," which had been advertised to leave Panama January 1st. Great was our jov to find, on arrival in Panama, that the "California" had not arrived. A party of us formed a club, and made common propert}" of the funds. The •'California" arrived on the 17th. In the meantime, numerous passengers had arrived, most of which were by steamer " Falcon," from New Orleans. We lived in Panama from January 6th to 31st. Our funds were almost exhausted, being under the necessity of sacrificing all our stock of hams, dried beef, and crackers, in consequence of not be- ing able to get means of transporting them across the Isthmus. When r left Panama, and boarded the steamship " California," one gold piece (two and a half dollars) was all the money in mj pocket, but had a cabin passage paid through from New York to San Francisco. Finding myself short of funds, and with but little ex- perience in the world, it naturally occuired that some provision should be made for the future. Consequently it was made known, tiirough some of my companions who had ac- companied uie, that, for a fair consideration, my place could be had in the cabin for one in steerage. Several offei-s were made, and, finally, one hundred and fifty dollars was ac- cepted in e.Kcliange, from one of the Aids of FIllST STEAMSHIP PIONEEBS. 341 (.leneral Adair, or, perhaps, Persifer F. Smith. who was then on his way to Oregon. Tliis matter phiced me on good footing, as I could purchase fresh eggs at Acapulco and Mazathm, and had a much cooler apartment (in a hammocJi) for sleeping, on deck. When off Monterey, distant about ninety luiles, the fuel on board the "California" was reported to have suddenly given out; upon which the reporter for the New York Herahl (Stephen Branch), inquired from my old companion, friend, and partner, if he did not think there was a storm rapidly approach- ing, pointing towards a dark cloud in the distance. Mr. E. T. Batturs, who is now a resident of your city, the partner referred to above, quickly replied, "Yes, I think there is o-oino- to be a — of a storm," which sent the nervous reporter to his berth, on coming events to cogitate, and perhaps pray for the Almighty to forgive him for the many exaggerations he had furnished to that paper, while on the pas- sage. After chopping up some spare spars, and a lot of temporary berths which had been hastily put in place on the steamship, on her 342 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. arrival at Panama, for the accommodation of Chilenos who had been taken aboard at Val- paraiso, the vessel managed to get into Mon- terey harbor. Young as I was, it made the hair of my head stand on end when I wit- nessed the stars and stripes, waving gracefully to the breeze ; " then I had no military en- thusiasm, but the sight of that flag made me feel as though I had been absent from home for a long time, and just got back." At Monterey I first saw public gambling. Here were tables exposed to public view, with piles of Mexican doubloons, laid out as care- fully as upon a bank counter, such as wei-e seen in Philadelphia ov New York at that time. And, strange to say, nearly every person who was attracted by this tempting view was dis- posed to take a chance, or, in other words, " buck at the bank." After our arrival at San Francisco we (sev- eral of us) pitched a tent on the north side of Washington street, between Kearny and Montgomery streets, on or near property after- wards owned and occujjied by Eugene L. Sul- livan ; where, after disposing of our Sunday clothing, and some few articles of surplus stock, such as percussion caps, knives, watches, etc., the writer had on hand $1,300. We left San Francisco for the mining regions by water to Stockton ; from thence to Angel's Camp, near the Stanislaus river, where I remained, without much success, for about six months, wlien I left, determined to start for Philadel- phia. Mr. Batturs accompanied me to San Francisco. Upon our arrival there, he per- suaded me to start into business with him. We then started, under the firm name of E. L. Morgan & Co., on the north-east comer of Pa<'ific and Dupont streets. Here we contin- ued until the fire of 1851, which destroyed our stock and building, leaving us al^out $.3,000. In May, 1852, returned to the Atlantic States. Was married in Lancaster City, Pennsylvania, in June, 1852. Returned to San Francisco in September, 1852. Mr. Batturs being desirous of returning, to visit his mother and family, I conducted the business until his return in 1S53. During his visit to Philadelphia, he purchased a large quantity of hams, and some other articles, which, upon their arrival, we o44 r/UST STEAMSHIP PIONIIERS. found to be damaged, and would not bring more than three -fourths of the original cost. The price paid in Philadelphia was twelve and one - half cents per pound ; when they arrived, they could not be sold for more than nine and three - foui-ths cents. Finally, many of them were sold at auction for two and one- half cent^i per pound, for soap fat — some enterprising gentleman, from Australia, having entered into the manufocture of soap, at this time. This puts me ahead of what was intended in detail. Upon the return of Mr. Batturs, in 185.3, I determined to return to Philadelphia, and bring my wife out to San Francisco, who was con- stantly writing, with urgent requests, that we should not live apart, or so distant. In ac- cordance with these frequent, urgent appeals, I again, left San Francisco, in June, 1853, and left New York on September 20th, 1853, arriv- ing at San Francisco in October following. We took lodgings at Wilson's Exchange Hotel, on Sansome street, near Sacramento. Upon going up to the store, at Pacific and Dupont, I was surprised to find that portion FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 345 of " the village " had been taken possession of b}' the " heathen Chinese." The '*' Hounds " had left, or were slowly leaving, in utter dis- gust. I thought this would be a sad looking place to take my wife, yet I did it. And, I am glad to say, that she wa.s a farmer's daughter ; one who had been brought up from childhood to work ; and, with that kindly feel- ing which is the peculiar character of Friends, commonly called "Quakers," she was, and did command the respect of all by her unassum- ing manners and kind actions towards the surrounding neighbors, " bad a.s they were." It, was upon this corner (Pacific and Dupont streets) that our first child was born and died. It lies buried in Dale avenue, Lone Mountain Cemetery. My wife s father died in June, 18-").") ; in consequence of which I was obliged to close up my business, " which had not been agreeal)le to me ;" and that estate (wite'sj requiring a long time to settle it, 1 felt it necessary to console my wife, and a dear mother, who both longed for the company of each other, to gratif)' them. There- fore left San Francisco, February 20th, 1856, and arrived in Philadelphia March l-Sth, 1856. 346 FIB ST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. I spent the balance of 1856 on the farm in Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, in the company of my wife and her mother. In 1857 I became a member of the firm of Morgan, Orr & Co., of Philadelphia. The firm being composed of my oldest brother, Joshua Morgan, Arthur Orr, and my.a««enger on the occasion, and your name brings back to me most vividly, the heroism, fortitude, and quiet endurance of your wife, both in her transit across the Isthmus, and 0}i board the steamship. Her ride across the Isthmus on mule-back, man-wise, covered with water- proof overalls and coat, which I often re- 352 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. ferred to, as an example of the brave spirit and will of American women, as the ride was made over a dangerous road, and in a ])erfect deluge of rain. And then, sir, as re- gai'ds yourself, well do I remember the beau- tiful and impressive sermon, on one of the Sabbath days of the voyage, your text so a])piopriate for the occasion, from the book of Ninnht'.rx, { if I recollect rightly,) liking our voyaging to the promise of the Lord to Moses, and the Children of Israel, coming to a land tlowing with milk and honey. The discomforts of the voyage, although we Avere marvelously preserved from sickness, and favored with pleasant weather. The hicapacity of the Captain, (Marshall.) and the entire want of discipline of the crew, made our situation unsafe, dangerous, and sometimes critical. The ship was on fire at least four times during our voyage, but well do we remember the dismaj^ among the pas- sengers, when the ship, after groping her way for sey^eral daj's, in an impenetrable fog, came to a stand, the last land having been seen near St. James. Without fuel, and with very limited provisiont^, the Captain and his ollicers entirely worn out with watching and anxiety, and the riunor went through the. ship that parties were nuide up to seize the Itoats, which were not suflficient to carry one tenth of the number on i»oard. As I had been frequently up and down the coast of California, the Caj)tain had advised with nie in relation to bis navigation, and it may have been known to a few of the i)as- sengers, that at this critical and perilous time, he was directed entii-ely by it : the steam ran down aljout daylight, and in walking the elevated gangway between the wheel l)oxes, h\ a sudden falling of the fog. I discovered land, which I recognized as the highlands of Santa Cruz, and without moving my position, sent for the chart and compass, and took the bearings of the land, and before I bad time to lay it down on the chart, it was again shut out and entirely obscured. 1 was c.oidi- deiit of my observation, and laid down the position of the ship upon the chart, and the course to be steered to the nearest port, viz : Monterey, and then directed that all the ."r)4 FTNST STEAMSHIP FIONKEHS. lumber whicli liad been used in iiuikiiif^ extra sleeping accommodations, should })e broken up, and that a thorough search should be made in the coal bunkers and hold of the vessel, for eveiything that could be used tor fuel; in this search a tew bags oF coal were pro\'i- dentially found down beside the keelson n;/ne were thrown hi our path, and the most prtjfuse and extravagant exhi- bitions oi' welcome, giving a clear indication of the abundance of gold. 1 was born in Sussex County, New Jersey, November -"), 1818. Reared by my parents, residing part of the time in New Jersey, and part in New York City, and educated in the schools of New Jersey and New Voik City. Prepared tor I'rinceton, at Lawrence^ ille, New Jersey, and entered the Sophomore class at Princeton College, but did uo\ graduate. onf, FIKfiT STEAMSHIP PIONEEJiS. Studied law in the office of Mr. Dane Elling- wooo, New York City ; afterwards entered the iiiivv of the United States as Purser, in 1840, and was serving in the U. S. ship "Cvane," of the Pacitio squadron. First arrived in CaUfornia, in March, 1846. and was at Mon- terey, and hinded with the naval force on the fith of .luly of that year which raised the fla^ of the United States over Californi;i ; and was .sent on shoi'e to take charge of the Mexican and Californian archives ; and to perform the duties of Alcalde and Prefect dur- ing oui- niilitai-y occupation, which I performed for some time. Upon the receipt of otficial news of war between the United States and Mexico, I Noliniteered to carry the important news to (Jommodore Stockton, then commanding tiie American Ibrces in California, who had cap- tured and was occupying Los Angeles. After that I joined my sliip, whicii was employed in l)lo(!kading the Mexican ports, and was present at the taking of (luaymas, f-a I'az, San .lose, Sa)i Bias, and Ma/.atlaii. Heturneil home in 1848, via Mexico, I'iding from Alaz- atlan to Vera Cruz, witii vcrlial di.spatches FIRST STKAMKHIP PIONKKRS. 357 i'loiu Commodore Shnbrick to Geiienil Scott, in the city of Mexico, to arrunge for a combined attack of the army a)id navv upon Acapulco ; and al^^o with dispatches to the Secretary of the Navy at Washington. The treaty of peace ha(l just been signed at Gaudalupe, Hidalgo, wiien I arrived at the city of Mexico. T was not home long before I was ordered to return to California, as Navy Agent (if the whole Pacific coast, with vari- ous and extraordinary powers, not only to act as fiscal agent, but to test and ascertain the productiveness and resources of California ibr supplying the army and navy, required for its defense, as California had been repre- sented, by most of those who had explored it. as a non-productive, barren, sterile country. My orders als.\i:i:i!s. 80y t)t' hiT (at one tiniej tuniiiduhle rival, Jieiiicia. which chiiuied superioi advantagefi of locatiim, iiaibor defense, and j)roximity to the rivers SiU'nunentu and San Joa(iuin. It was only 1>\ jri'eat efforts, sacrifices, and lilteralitv of a lew persons at that early time, that Henicia was prevented from successfidly rivaling 8an Francisco and becoming the great entrepot. Superior advantages were claimed for Benicia by many intlnential persons — particularly by ('(jiumodore Ap Catesby Jones, commanding oizr naval forces at that time. I claim to have been among the first in building extensively in San Francisco, owning more houses, in 1850-51, than any other person, and also to ha\e contributed largely to all the charities and to the erection ol' all the early churches, and the estabhshhig of schools, and all the material interests, of San Francisco. It will also be remembered that I was the regular Dem- ocratic candidate, at the first election, for Con- gress, and received very large majorities along the coast where 1 was known, but was de- Icatcil by the mining districts, by Mr. Gii^ iKKi. 1)\' a small majority. 1 will add that, 3B0 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEEES. on m_v return home, 1 was elected the fol- lowing vear to Congress l)y my native State, and, subsequently, Governor. I am living on a farm in Ramapo Vallej', which affords me occupation, and my address is: Oakland, Bergen County, New Jersey. '«** Chapter X. A CONTRAS'T CALIFORNIA in 1S4!i am. CALIFORNIA in 1874. PHOPERLY conipiire California, as we tbund her in 1 849. with what she realh- is at the present time — to enter fullv into a description of the wonder- ful changes which have taken place in every avenue and department of life, and to trace out the causes of her unparalleled development — would be a work of such magnitude as to require a whole volume. Therefore, we can but brieilv allude to some of tlie most striking features, as they are presented to the mind. As the good steamshij) ''California," with her four hundred and eightv passengers, nearly all of whom were vigorous young men ol" the 362 Fin ST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. Anglo-Saxon race, was pursuing her course irum Panama to this port, the startling news of the wonderful discovery of fabulous amounts of gold was being read all over the globe. .Tust at that time, at least one- half of the people of the globe were looking up their atlases to see in whit part of the world (Jalifornia was. From almost every port un- (k'l- the sun, ships were taking their departure, loaded with adventurous passengers like our- selves, and pointing their prows toward the land oi' gold. All over the Western and Eastern States, thousands ujjon thousands were Ijusily engaged, forming parties and inaking preparations to start early in the Spring, over the lofty mountains, and across the desert ]ilains. en route to this proclaimed El Dorado. ( )n the beautiful, warm, and sunshin} morn, ing of the 28th ol' February, 1849, as we ])assed through the Golden Gate, and entered upon the waters of the magnificent bay of San Francisco, and in the first steamship to disturb its placid surface, we all were delighted with tlu' i)i-ospect, and r-ejoiced at the success- ful accomplishment oi' our vSea, had preceded us : ttut the inhabi- tants of the countrx liad not as yet become fully aroused to the important results which the discovery of gold was destined to bring upon the whole country. With the exception of this City, Santa Clara, San Jose, Monterey, Santa Barbara, Los An- geles, San Diego, and a few other easily ac- cessible points, there was no real settlement of the countiy. With the exception of Colonel Sutter's ranch, there were but a ver\ few thousand acres that had ever been brought un- (ler cultivation. The whole countrv, outside of ii limited niiiue of these places, was one vast solitude, roamed over In the deer, elk, ante- luiie. and grizzly bear ; and the bays, rivers, and lakes swarmeil with wild jreese, ducks, swans' and other water- fowls. The only paper published in San Francisco, at the time of our arrival, was the w«ekly •• Alta Calilornia," which was started on the fourth ot .Fanuary, 1S41(. It was a very small and inferior appearing sheet to what it is at the present time. A tew months after we landeil, a large fleet of shijjs gathered into the bay, bringing anxious gold seekers and goods. As soon as they anchored, theii' crews left them and rushed to the gold fields. Labor became so high in San Francisco, that it cost as much or more to unload the goods from the ships as the charges foi' their freight from New York amounted to. There were no i-eturn cargoes Ibr the ships, or seamen to navigate them ; consequently, numerous vessels never left tlic port, but were used for warehouses or l)uilt over for iiabitations. 368 FIRST STEAMSHIP PIOXEEUS. There were no puljlic roads or stage lines ; communication was made from one point of the country to another, on foot or horseback, alon*!: a scarcely perceivable trail. Over the whole country, lying between San Francisco and the Missions oi" Santa Clara and San Jose, there were no fences, and the plow had never disturbed the rich and productive soil. Where the beautiful city of Oakland now stands, there were no habitiitions, but only a magnificent forest of oaks. A perfect stream of human beings continued tor a long time to pour into the bay of San Francisco and fiom over the mountains. History could furnish no parallel of movement in the life of the liuman race. Xo one came to stay in this country, but only to remain a short time, to accumulate a little gold by digging foi- it, or by industrial operations. This accomplished, they designed to return to their homes, relate their adventures, and share their wealth with their fathers, mothers, sisters or lovers. Viewing this wonderful movement, and the results arising therefrom, from our present FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 369 standpoint, we recognize the operations of an inevitable law of human progress and develop- ment. No philanthropy, no legislation, no mis- sionary labors can change this law ; it is written in man's nature, by the hand of his Creator. There are races which have always been the representatives of civilization, and which have extended over and civilized all parts of the glolie. The Creator has implanted, in this group of races, an instinct that, in spite of themselves, drives them through all difficul- ties, to carry out their great mission of civil- izing and of fructif\'ing the earth. It is not reason, or philanthropy, which urges tliem on ; but it is destiny. "Wherever the Anglo-Saxon race plant themselves^ progress is certain to l)e displayed in some form oi- other ; such is their restless nature and go-ahead energy, that things can- not stand still where they are, whatever may be the circumstances surrounding them." C.\I>IK()RNIA IN 1874. Let US now take a glaiice at California, as she presents herself in the year 1874. A quarter of a century is a long time in tlie life of an individual, but it is a brief period in tlie history of a State or nation. The Cali- ibrnia of to - day, notwithstanding the changes which have taken place since we landed on her shores in 1849, presents a much greater enignui, for the solution of the human mind, in relation to her wonderful future, than she did at the time of our arrival. Then we were quite sure she was incapable of produc-- ing a sufficienc}' to feed her own people, and the whole world entertained the same opinitm. Consequently, goods and provivsions, of all kinds, were shipped trom every port to supply the miners at that time, in ([uantities sufficient to supply a kingdom. It was supposed that Cali- fornia was good for nothing but her yield of gold, hides, horns, and tallow ; and that the natural arrangements and capacity of the coun- try' were such, as to continually demand from other countries most of the necessaries of life. Wliat a change in the opinion of ourselves, and in the ideas of the world, has taken place in this connection ! Let us first direct our attention more par- FIRST STEAMSHIP PIONEERS. 'ill ticuliuly to this city, and see how tlie iSiin Francisco of to-day appears in contrast with what we noticed in 1849. The unsightly sand hills liave disappeared, large sections of the bay have been filled in, and extensive wharves have l)een constructed. She was not incorporated by tlie Legislature tintil May, 1850. Since that time, she lias been, .fix times., nearly destroyed by fire, but, on each of these occasions, she persistently rose, " Phoenix - like," from her own ashes. Nature has not changed : the grand old hills, and mountains, the climate, the soil, and the streams are the same. But, the inhabitants, and all that peitains to man and human arrangements, in San Francisco and in the country, have 'i floors ; To her streanw, whose waves run amher as they spar- ivle to the sea, Where ihe heart is ever open, and the hand is ever tree." I :>r D E X. I'AOK Austin, A 291 Basso Dk Gary 4 BalizH 1)0 Bninoh, Ziba lad BiKniian, SaiiiiiftI 199 Brooke, I, :iO!) Buttertield, H. F :; 18 BInsdplI, S. K :;SS 4 " Missions, Table of KV) Carter, Peter 2.)0 Contrast — California in 1849 and 1874 361 California, Population, '49.. 365 " " in 1874... 369 " Pioduotj 373 " Products in '73 377 California Fruit Trees 378 " Manufaetories 379 " Area of 384 " .\r«ble Lands 385 '■ Steamships from... 386 " Curi.isities of. 388 I DoLoKKs, Mission of 13'2 Duncan, Robert 168 Data, .Meagre 201 ! Davis, W. G 2.'iti I M'lV.yrvK, Sf'iiff \l 102 ■ Egg Trade 1-^7 I Earlier Pionei'rs 156 I Kpitaph, Singul.ar 208 I •' K-M.K 48 Gatun 78 Gilbert, Edward 199 Gold, Discovery of. 133 Golden Gate, Origin of name 129 Gold Dust, First seen 7i INDKX. PAGE Halkv,S 221 Havana 51 " Population of..... 56 Heath, H. W 200 Hero of Alexandria 4 Howard, W. D. M 178 " Dfiatli of 179 Kki.i.v, John 2:iu 1-os Anuei.ks, Fruits of 153 Liisscii, Peter 162 j Lepsc, Jncoli P 16.") | [iick, .laines 193 | " ■■ Pliilantliropy of 197 | l,arkln, Thomas () 199 | Maushall, Gai-t. John.... 29 Moro Castlo 51 Magellan Straits, trip through 111 Marshall, J. W 199 Meniorigraphia 201 McUougall, Hon. ,Iohn 242 Morgan, E. L 336 Mine, 381 >iourUKB, in the Gulf. 57 .\,-w Orleans fiO Natives, Simplicit.v of 79 N. Y. to Panama, via Strs... of Magellan 89 OKI), P 237 Ord, K. B 274 PmKNIi'IA, Mother of (JoHi- merce 3 P.M. S. S. Co 11-17 " " " Organization of 26 " " " Ships, No. of... 33 " " " " Lost and Value of 33 Polk — his plan 21 PAGK "Panama," S. S. disabled... 39 Panama, Sharks in harbor of 121 " Trip from to San Francisco 122 Panic on the " California ".. 124 Property, llise in 134 Porterage, Price of. 13(i Prices in 1849 188 Paty, Capt. .Tohn 160 Porter, A. A 246 Price, li. M S.SO KussLv, Kniperor of opposes Steam 8 Rio Janeiro lOti Row, on hoard, about Passa- ge- 121 Reception of First Steamer.. 134 Ross, Charles L 185 " " Benevolence of 189 " " Anecdote of..... 181 Radcliff, C. M 258 Railroads 38^ Stkam Navigation, Pleas- ures of. Steam Navigation affords means of recreation Steam Navigation, Ancient.. Steam, First Ship propelled by Steam, Development, of long delayed Steam, Connected with em- pire 7 Silliman, Prof. 7 Steam Navigation of Pacific, when commenced >> Steam Navigation of Paciflc, First Failure 11 INDEX. 393 SteamboatjFirst leaving New York 12 Steamships everywhere.. l.'S Steam, Defense of our Sea- coast 15 Shively, J. M 20 Slov's Line 23 Sea-Sickness 41 Savannah 4fi Shipwreck, Almost 61 Stout, Dr. A. B 89 San Francisco, Town in '49 126 " " How laid out 130 " " Latitude of.. 130 " " First Census 132 " " Badly Gov- erned 134 San Francisco, Market scene 139 Sierra Nevada 150 " " Vine Lands of 151 Sparks, Isaac J 164 Semplo, Dr. Robert 169 Sonoma, Capture of. 174 Sutter, Gen. John A 199 Stevenson, Col. J. D 199 Thompson, Capt. W. F 37 Tea Sale 141 Tulare Lake 150 I'AfiK Tulare Valley 150 " " Fruits in 151 Thompson, D. W. C 217 VULCAN, Shops of. 14 Voyage, N. Y. to Chagres.. 34 Volante, Hide and Descrip- tion 54 Valparaiso 118 Valleys 148 Van Nostrand, A. M 212 Van Voorhies, W 208 WocaiWAKn, J. M 22 Waterman, Capt 62 Wheeler, Mrs. O. C. Trip to Panama 86 Willewah ' 115 Woodworth, S. E 119 Whittell, Hugh 201 Woodbridge, D.D., Rev. S.. 233 Waters, W. P 271 Willey, Rev. S. H 279 Williams, H. F 294 Wheeler, O. C 307 Yekba Buena, Village of... 132 " " First House in 132 York Roads 113 Yount, George C 157 ^^y *\/\T I K .^-■% y^. ^^-^v y^ ^''^. %-^'' '''^'^ '%\^^ '^^■■<'' '- "^-^^^ ,^^ ^ : ^%/: \^^ f %■ <^^ %,^ V-- % / '■>'- : 4^'\- J''\> v^'^"-^ v.^^'^ ^'% o^ ,/*o'ro>v- ^"^ 1 e o ^ V^r^^>^..%^ \# n.^ / ^%- - /% '^'^ .^'^ -^^^ ^ ^^. V^' •^c^. ."'^^ .6 O ,A ,' ■;%^"^ IV^O^ \ ..^4 ^ ."^ c* "C-" O' x^' ■'^^. A^^' ■V r N« -'•^, -'-.W'-'^^^,'^"" %:""\<^ ^"~'*,S/"^' .•o■^''^'^l'*-'% " ' .#' ' y ^ %■&' , ' , X * .'\ ::'":% •^■*' \^^ . O,, ' , X * .' - ■■«■ ^r. - A < ''/ o* ^.^^ "•«■.. ''o. /X* •) .0 ./ l\' <-<' CX^^' f'"^ ^\ ■p <^- : '- '■'■^^• .^^ .c ^> ' '-<'. .. aV ^^'^^ ..S^ '^A. '-f' cP\ A\ % ■^"^^ .X