Class 71 J7 3 Qf 
 Boofc . EI 2y 
 
 DOBELL COLLECTION 
 

,nA 
 
 LEAVES FROM MY JOURNAL 
 
 THE SUMMEE OF 1851. 
 
LONDON I 
 GEORGE WOODFALL AND SON, 
 
 ANGEL COURT, SKINNER STREET. 
 

 
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THE FOLLOWING PAGES 
 
 ARE DEDICATED, 
 
 WITHOUT PERMISSION, 
 
 TO 
 
 HIS FAMILY AND FRIENDS, 
 
 BY 
 THEIR MOST OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT, 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 January, 1852. 
 
205449 
 ,'13 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Page 
 
 The Voyage 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 Hamburgh 31 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 The Railway 50 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 Leipsig 68 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 Zwickau, and the Journey 87 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 Carlsbad 108 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 The Return 152 
 
LIST OF PLATES. 
 
 Portrait op the Author ...... 
 
 Portrait op Toni, Queen op the Sprudel Madchen 
 The Elephant Coffee House . . . 
 Portrait op the two Ladies of Carlsbad 
 Portrait op Babbi 
 
 Frontispiece. 
 
 Page 110 
 
 114 
 
 133 
 
 154 
 
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 ttdK <J*C«vrn Unborn fUt 
 
 18fc& 
 
 
LEAVES FROM MY JOURNAL 
 
 DURING THE SUMMEB OF 1851. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 THE VOYAGE. 
 
 Worn with fatigues of the Session and the cares of life, and 
 annoyed that, owing to dilatory painters and workmen, I could 
 not recruit my shattered forces as usual, "by enjoying my own 
 flowers and trees, when such things are most enjoyable, a 
 thought came into my mind, on Monday, the 14th of July. 
 Some twelve years ago, a visit to Carlsbad and Franzensbrunn 
 renovated me for a while; — why not take advantage of this 
 forced absence from my own paradise, and try the effect again ? 
 That which was on Monday only an idea, on Thursday had 
 assumed a certain definite aspect ; — on Friday it was a serious 
 consideration, — on Saturday a passion, and I desired my servant 
 would get me a passport. Then, in the midst of a great 
 
 B 
 
2 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 variety of business, came the trouble of thinking about the 
 preparatory incidents of a foreign tour. Unquestionably they 
 are nothing now to what they were some time ago ; still, when 
 one thinks of locomotion in England and on the Continent, 
 the difference is considerable. First, there is the passport, — 
 We, Henry John, &c, — then there is the visa, — then there are 
 the clothes, — then the books, — and lastly comes the question, 
 What servant shall be taken ? 
 
 At this period of the year I generally get into a state of 
 aversion to anything like extra trouble that amounts to a 
 loathing ; and if anything is to be done I like to do it at once, 
 to avoid the bore of thinking about it. So I said internally, 
 I can, in all probability, take care of myself; I have not quite 
 forgotten my German, though it is somewhat rusty, and though 
 I never travelled before without a servant, I altogether decline 
 having to take care of a native now; and, as to beating the 
 preserves in the not-inappropriate neighbourhood of Mr. Wyld's 
 great globe, to provide myself with anything that may turn 
 up in forty- eight hours, that is not to be thought of. 
 
 Perhaps I shall go, — perhaps I shan't. My own servant 
 must be prescient as to the clothes I shall want, I will lay my 
 hands upon such books as come under them ; but disturb my 
 mind with disquieting thoughts I will not — health can only be 
 had with a quiet mind. How can I perform the journey with 
 
Chap. L] THE VOYAGE. 3 
 
 the least trouble ? Let me see. Packets to Hamburgh, thence 
 by railway, &c, to Carlsbad in two days — any other way, 
 half a dozen different conveyances, examination of baggage, 
 stoppings at night, transference of baggage, &c, &c. The 
 former for me. Packet sails on Tuesday evening, name 
 " Caledonia." General Steam Navigation Company, sounds 
 rather tedious, to be sure — but at this time of year, certain to be 
 fine, and even that Company must have put on a little speed in 
 these fast days. Besides, Hamburgh is almost the only con- 
 siderable town in Europe I have never seen, and it is rising 
 from its ashes, and with it Scott's Cathedral Church. All 
 these considerations flitted through my mind, and so I decided 
 that if I could any how arrange the business I then had in 
 hand, I would quietly slip away on the 22nd. Sunday came 
 and went. I always try forcibly to exclude the business of 
 this life from my thoughts on that day, and from long habit 
 I was not without success, even under these trying circum- 
 stances. On Monday I was obliged to go into the country 
 upon business, and was very nearly having my departure 
 postponed, perhaps sine die, for a very little would have 
 cooled me down again, — partly because I am of a vacillating 
 disposition when I have only myself to please; and in this 
 instance I was really anxious not to lose time. 
 
 I have the bump of locality so strongly, that once having 
 
 B 2 
 
4 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 visited a place, I feel to know its bearings, and almost intui- 
 tively find my way on my return to it again, if within any 
 reasonable time. On the day in question I arrived at a certain 
 junction on the North-western Kailway, took the offshooting 
 train, was later than I had hoped, and did not get back to the 
 junction till the last train to London, the Express, was due; 
 it was after nine, and dark, and no one was about except the 
 station-master and a passenger or two, waiting, as I supposed, 
 like myself, to go to London, upon the platform, where we had 
 descended. We had not been there five minutes before a train 
 arrived upon the opposite rails ; the station-master crossed 
 with his lanthorn, a passenger and a stoker remaining on the 
 same side as myself. I continued walking up and down a few 
 minutes, partly wondering why the train did not proceed at 
 once, and partly ruminating in my own mind what the train 
 could be, having a pretty accurate knowledge of the train- 
 times on this railway ; I was about to communicate my ideas 
 to the solitary passenger, but he turned on his heel just as I 
 approached him, whistling an air, and apparently not affecting 
 conversation. Fortunately, at that moment a black stoker 
 emerged from under the wheels of the siding-train, and, upon 
 my saying, " That's the down mail-train, I suppose," he replied, 
 " No ; it's the up-express." So certain was I that I could not 
 have mistaken the points of the compass, that I was just 
 
Chap. I.] THE VOYAGE. 5 
 
 going to dispute his information, when I saw my error, — the bell 
 sounded, three bounds took me across the rails, though I am 
 rather past the bounding age, and another hop and step got 
 me into an empty carriage, to meditate upon the danger of 
 being too wise in one's own conceit ; I found afterwards that 
 I should infallibly have been left to pass the night as best 
 I could at a small station, had there not been something 
 amiss with the station pump, which caused the delay I have 
 described. 
 
 Tuesday dawned a charming day. On a fine day the idea 
 of locomotion is always agreeable; I felt I was off, favente 
 n limine 9 and at four o'clock, letters being answered, and 
 excuses sent to future engagements, I proceeded to the office, 
 to make inquiry what packet was to sail, and if a place was to 
 be had. I accordingly learned that the " Caledonia" was to 
 sail at half-past eight from St. Katherine's Docks, and a berth 
 was at my disposal, and, to my query about arriving in 
 Hamburg, was informed that I should certainly be there on 
 Friday morning. This gave me a twinge, knowing the dilatory 
 habits of the General Steam Navigation Company, and their 
 old tubs, when there is no opposition. I had, moreover, fully 
 reckoned . upon being at my journey's end on Thursday night, 
 otherwise I should have taken the railway route. Accordingly, 
 I made an exclamation, which induced the clerk, who was 
 
THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 replacing the pen behind his ear, after inscribing the amount 
 of my deposit-money upon my credentials, to re-assure me, 
 that, in all probability , it would be the evening of the second 
 day. The weather being serene, and the nights short, I silenced 
 all misgivings, and built again upon an unstable foundation. 
 
 Just as I was about to take a tender leave, and tear myself 
 from the bosom of my family, my glance fell upon the baro- 
 meter, and I thought it had fallen; but, my mind at that 
 moment being bent upon keeping everything disagreeable 
 out of itself, I resolutely turned my eyes away from it, for 
 fear of seeing that such was really the case. On my way, 
 however, to the Docks, some awkward-looking clouds began to 
 sail about ; and when, about eight o'clock, I got alongside my 
 floating inn, there was no question as to the fact, that a north- 
 easterly wind was blowing, — how fresh, it was not possible 
 then to ascertain ; but it made one feel chilly, and it repented 
 me, for the first time, that I had taken the step. This un- 
 pleasant feeling was deepened when I came to reconnoitre the 
 vessel itself. She was painted entirely black, and had an 
 antiquated, rusty, and coffin-like appearance. She sat heavily 
 upon the water. Had she belonged to any other Company than 
 that which has earned so commendable a reputation for the 
 care which it bestows upon the sea-worthiness of its vessels, 
 
 1 should have felt an inclination even stronger than that which 
 
Chap. I.] THE VOYAGE. 7 
 
 seized me at that moment, to jump into the boat after my 
 servant, who was departing; and, as the last link between my- 
 self and home, I felt quite sentimental towards one of the 
 most unsentimental-looking of human beings, whilst following 
 him with my eyes, as he vanished in the waterman's wherry 
 under the stern of some enormous vessel lying nearer the shore. 
 So here I am setting out on an excursion, fleeing care, and 
 searching after better health, in the most melancholy mood. 
 The sky black, — the steamer the same, — the crew ditto, — my 
 fellow voyagers not much otherwise — a great noise and confu- 
 sion, taking in the last portion of a cargo of odoriferous skins 
 from a lighter — and passengers jostling each other in the vain 
 hopes of seeing into what part of the hold their luggage was 
 vanishing. I heard nothing but German spoken ; so much so, 
 that at first I was persuaded that I was the only English pas- 
 senger on board. Need I add, that the great majority were en- 
 gaged in the two national occupations — smoking and the other 
 thing; all which offended my aristocratic nerves extremely, and 
 I bemoaned my rashness in having so precipitately adopted this 
 mode of conveyance. I fancied myself impelled by fate, — 
 everything looked sinister, — I felt sure a tempest would 
 arise (the weather had latterly been strangely changeable 
 and stormy), and then I thought of the announcement in the 
 newspapers : " Missing steamer. — Stern of a boat picked up 
 
8 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 somewhere near Heligoland, — think they can decipher { Cale- 
 donia,' of London." My only comfort was, that I had not 
 forgotten a certain india-rubher life-preserver, which I bought 
 a few years ago for another voyage, which is warranted to float 
 its wearer over the seas for an indefinite length of time, pro- 
 vided he don't forget where it is when the crisis arrives, or to 
 blow it out before he puts it on, and carries with him a 
 sufficient stock of provisions for the occasion. 
 
 After looking about upon the poop in a vague way, with 
 something of the feelings I imagine to belong to a condemned 
 criminal, hoping that some less dismal ideas would succeed, I 
 sat down on a dirty beech, and fell into a reverie. Presently 
 the mail-bags were put on board, at a quarter to nine we 
 got under weigh, and our steamer floated forward on the top 
 of the ebbing tide through that apparently hopeless labyrinth 
 of craft which continually overshadow this mighty highway of 
 commerce. Hard a- starboard — hard a-port — at short intervals 
 in the increasing darkness, indicated the obstacles to our free 
 egress to the ocean. I had a few minutes' conversation with 
 the only creature — I may say the only object — I had yet seen 
 on board that had not a repulsive aspect, a delicate-looking 
 English girl, who spoke with a slightly foreign accent, and 
 who, having been sent for medical advice to England, was now 
 returning with her mother to Hamburgh. She had made the 
 
Chap. I.] THE VOYAGE. 9 
 
 passage, she said, more than once, and gave me a lively picture 
 of its uncertainties. 
 
 About ten o'clock, I took a glance at the cabin called saloon, 
 on the main deck under the poop. There was laid out the usual 
 British seagoing fare — a very dry-looking, crumbling roast fowl, 
 a fierce ham, and a lump of very fiery-looking meat with black 
 edges, which at first sight puzzled me, though I can boast 
 of some experience in these mysteries; I afterwards dis- 
 covered it was not so bad as it looked, being a piece of Ham- 
 burgh smoked beef, — not a bad thing in the evil hour. But I 
 had a presaga mali. Though not unfrequently a sufferer to 
 some extent from nausea at sea, I am by no means addicted, 
 in ordinary times, to sea- sickness, aDd in the roughest weather 
 have been able to hold my own; but this time I came on 
 board with nerves predisposed to insubordination, and the 
 fumes of mud and bilge-water that continually infest, for they 
 don't rise, but hover over the docks and river, did for me, 
 what the nurses say an early contradiction will do for a cross 
 child — set me all at wrong for the day. 
 
 In this mood, I made a desperate dive down to what is 
 denominated the gentlemen's sleeping cabin, to see what the 
 chances were of my being able to attempt berth, No. 44. No 
 one could say that it was not cold on deck, for we were steam- 
 ing against a north-east wind, yet in the saloon it was warm, 
 
10 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 and below hot and close; for, except what chose to pass 
 down the staircase, no air could reach it; the little three-inch 
 side-lights could only be open in harbour, where the water 
 is still, being little above the water-line. A half-lit lamp 
 gave a peculiarly dungeon-like appearance to this den: at 
 first I could distinguish nothing; when I got a little more 
 accustomed to the twilight, I perceived I was about to tumble 
 over a form sitting close to a berth, and a flicker of a candle 
 for a moment illumined the handsome, but faded, features of a 
 foreigner, who looked ill, and was evidently preparing to go to 
 bed, to prevent matters becoming worse. One is accustomed 
 to see sickly faces on board packets ; but there was a deep 
 melancholy in the expression of this man's face, and a strange 
 outlandish look that returned to my thoughts more than once 
 during the voyage, and was explained before we parted; but 
 I never before felt so uncomfortably the truth of the pro- 
 verb — if I may make use of it in horse-marine-ish way — " Post 
 equitem sedit atra cura." 
 
 With the assistance of the steward, who now did light two 
 swinging lamps (afterwards I devoutly wished they had re- 
 mained, like our beards on the voyage, for ever untrimmed), 
 I found berth 44, an upper shelf in this family vault, into 
 which, with misgivings of every description, almost all of 
 which proved in the sequel to be well-founded, T scrambled. 
 
Chap. I.] THE VOYAGE. 11 
 
 More figures soon descended to wander about the shades below, 
 and find their retreats in different states of dishabille ; but I 
 don't think anybody uttered to anybody, and at times a sort of 
 half dream came over me that I was on board some vessel 
 carrying out the dead of the great metropolis to the cemetery 
 at Erith. What is the mental relation between asleep and 
 awake? Why is it that noise should at times act as a 
 soporific to hold one's senses fast ? So it is, however ; the 
 engine and paddle-wheels made no little piece of work in 
 the boat, and in the water, and yet I was asleep, and should, 
 perhaps, have been so longer, if we had not brought up at 
 Gravesend for some purpose or other, which woke me. I 
 indulged in a speculation. What could it be for ? My dis- 
 agreeable imagination immediately suggested a flaw in the 
 piston, or a crack in the boiler, that would either compel our 
 return, or be patched up for explosion in a gale of wind in the 
 North Sea. Again sleep came to my assistance, but it was 
 only a dull sensation of prolonged discomfort; and when I 
 again came to my senses, it was to find that we were rolling 
 about on the ocean with a head- wind and some sea. Smells of 
 a most indescribable nature arise at all times in all steam- 
 packets, from all parts ; but I can with truth aver, that in all 
 my experience, so thick, vaporous, and tangible an odour — so 
 sickening as that which — I won't say circulated, but — heavily 
 
12 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 pervaded the gentleman's sleeping cabin — I did not until now 
 conceive capable of evolution. I am convinced Liebig could 
 neither have composed nor analyzed it, and nothing but Satan's 
 alembic, the steam-packet laboratory, could have compounded it. 
 Ladies and gentlemen — not you who sit at home at ease, 
 but you who have braved the sleeping apartments in these 
 conveyances — figure to yourselves, when your stomachs are 
 sufficiently strong to endure the phantom, in addition to the 
 usual emanations from bilge- water, fusty moreen, and ill- ven- 
 tilated, unwashed humanity — the fumes of two expiring lamps. 
 The barbarous steward, who, by the by, took care to sleep in 
 the saloon, had trimmed the two lights with very thick cottons, 
 and with just enough of rancid oil to allow light for the 
 operation of getting into bed, so, after a while, the fuel being 
 expended, they went out one after the other, leaving their 
 large wicks to smoke till they could smoke no more ; and this 
 was by no means a short affair, for, after I was awake, at each 
 swing of the lamp the foetid air reanimated the dying embers, 
 which became glaring red, and sent forth a fresh puff of 
 odorous incense to thicken the plot. There was nothing left 
 but to escape for one's life, and only deeply regretting that I 
 had undressed so much, I made a desperate effort, regained 
 my vestments, and rushed up stairs to — as I hoped — inhale 
 the breeze, and save myself from the crisis now evidently 
 
Chap. I.] THE VOYAGE. 13 
 
 approaching; in this, however, I was disappointed; it was six 
 o'clock and quite light, but the heaven was overcast — it was 
 pouring with rain. 
 
 The steward, with whom I now began politely to scrape 
 acquaintance, certain I should shortly be entirely in his power, 
 informed me the sailors thought it would be dirty weather. 
 
 Yesterday at this time I was in a clean bed, a perfectly 
 well-ventilated room, not otherwise than well, only mastered 
 by the notion that I must go somewhere else in order to make 
 myself better ; now I appeared to be commencing a stormy 
 voyage of indefinite duration, and who could be the better for 
 that ? I soon learned, by a few judicious questions (which fate 
 seemed to force from my lips), that the " Caledonia" was the 
 oldest vessel in the service — had insufficient power to deal with 
 contrary winds — and afterwards I overheard the captain, who 
 I think was a bit of a wag, informing a gentleman, who made 
 an inquiry, in a somewhat maudlin tone, as to the probable 
 length of the voyage, that it might take a week. I have 
 bad luck in public conveyances generally: the boat that goes 
 on my day is sure to be the slowest, craziest, and least 
 cleanly; and if there is a kicking horse, it is sure to find its 
 way into my conveyance. I have twice been dismissed from 
 Hansoms by the too active heels of the quadruped, which, I 
 believe, is a rare occurrence, considering they have generally 
 
1 i THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 enough exercise without this peculiar one ; — to be sure it was 
 before the Great Exhibition had made such an accident impos- 
 sible. I cannot imagine what could have driven me to ask 
 for the information I obtained about the ship, because my 
 good genius warned me that it was preferable to remain as 
 long as might be in blissful ignorance; however, having 
 acquired it, I betook myself to a little mental arithmetic after 
 the following fashion : if the good ship the " Caledonia," 
 against a head-wind, goes five knots in one hour, how long 
 will she be going 500 ? After several trials, in some of which 
 I made it out to be a year, I gave up the hopeless attempt, 
 my head getting hot and giddy, my extremities cold. My 
 gradually-waning attempts at exertion to hold out against 
 the enemy were terminated by the arrival of breakfast, — not 
 that I saw the table or the people, for I was on a sofa in 
 another corner of the cabin, — but the side or service table 
 was close to me, and my eyes would obstinately fix them- 
 selves upon the awful compounds that stopped there on their 
 way to the other table ; also upon the hands of the steward, 
 waiter, and cabin-boy, and the various uses to which they put 
 the napkins, which, as a badge of office, they held in their 
 hands. 
 
 For cases like mine the only thing to do is, to force one- 
 self to eat, especially breakfast; and it is singular that 
 
Chap. L] THE VOYAGE. 15 
 
 on former occasions, when I have done so, I actually got 
 a sort of unnatural appetite for the horrors in the shape of 
 fried ham and eggs, very fat pork, and red herrings — things 
 which are set before one on these occasions — some of which 
 I could not eat on shore, under any circumstances whatever 
 at that hour, and presented as I have already described, not at 
 all. This time, however, when I embarked, I was hardly fit to 
 encounter difficulties — had little appetite, and the night in the 
 cabin reduced my forces to below zero. Two or three times I 
 made an internal effort to cross the cabin to breakfast, but it 
 did not reach that part of my sensorium in which the will is 
 situated. I made one galvanic attempt to rouse myself, and 
 went out into the rain, but it was the last, and ineffectual. I 
 paid tribute to the ocean, and returned to sink upon my horse- 
 hair couch, staring upon vacancy. 
 
 Day wore on : there were periods when the rain desisted, 
 and I went out; a yellow unwashed Deutscher asked me 
 politely, in German, if I was unwell. I confessed the fact, 
 felt painfully conscious of the appearance I must at that 
 time have presented, and angry with him for reminding 
 me of myself. This emotion was increased by his apolo- 
 gizing for the intrusion, and begging to know my honoured 
 name, as he was sure he had had the pleasure of meet- 
 ing me somewhere. What my reply conveyed to his ears 
 
16 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 I don't quite know, but certainly the sound that came forth did 
 not seem at all familiar to myself; at all events it appeared 
 new to him, as without further remark he continued his cigar 
 and promenade. Fortunately for me, in a lucid interval, I 
 bethought me of the doctrine of Similia similibus curantur. 
 I had got a box of globules, but it was in my portmanteau 
 somewhere in the hold, and the idea of taking any trouble was 
 revolting. It struck me, however, I could get a glass of hot 
 water, which, as it makes people sick who are well, may cure 
 them when they are ill, and I have heard of its having been 
 successfully applied. So I demanded the potion, and I heard the 
 captain say, " Why that ere gem man must want to make bad 
 wus;" when it was brought, it was so unlike ordinary hot water 
 — so highly flavoured and tinged — that the first gulp proved 
 captain knew at least what was likely to be the effect of his 
 own hot water, and I retreated to the cabin in hopeless misery. 
 Shortly, however, something, I don't know what, brought back 
 a momentary courage, and I implored Mr. Steward to try a 
 dive after my portmanteau. He was an off- hand, active, good- 
 humoured fellow, with a cynical touch about him, and he 
 acquiesced, without reply, in my wishes; dived down and fished 
 up the article in question, uncorded, unbuckled, and opened 
 it without half the things falling out — a decided talent. The 
 little green box came forth, and I swallowed 2/6 ipec, which 
 
Chap. I.] THE VOYAGE. 17 
 
 I repeated at intervals. It did not cure me entirely, but 
 I can hardly describe the relief it gave me, and had I only 
 compelled myself to eat, I probably should have suffered no 
 more. 
 
 The wind rather increased towards evening, and closed in 
 with rain and lightning in all directions. About midnight, 
 or soon after, it began to rain in good earnest, and 
 came down in torrents, more or less, for several hours; 
 this however changed the wind, and the following morn- 
 ing, when I went on deck very miserable, I had the con- 
 solation of seeing all sail set, a south-west wind, the old tub 
 going ten and a-half instead of five, and the Captain saying 
 we might perhaps be in Hamburgh early on Friday morning if 
 things so continued. I must here do the old ship justice to 
 say, that she had at least the merit — not unfrequently accom- 
 panying slow craft — of being extremely easy against a head 
 sea: she hardly gave us one of those bumps that wring the 
 souls of the seasick. The other wretches and myself — for there 
 were others similarly situated — began to look a little less woe- 
 begone; the weather cleared by degrees, and as our prospects 
 brightened, I was able, though in fear and trembling, to swallow 
 something, and after that the evil ceased. 
 
 The low coast of North Holland was unusually visible, and 
 land in sight is always a comfort to exhausted bodies uncon- 
 
 c 
 
18 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 scions of a lee shore. We could see the Church of Norderney, 
 an island at the mouth of the Weser, resorted to for sea- 
 bathing, and at five, that valuable British colony, the island 
 of Heligoland, was in sight, formed of very different stuff from 
 its namesake on the opposite coast, the Holy Isle, which is 
 proof against the fiercest storms. This, however, though it 
 makes a considerable figure, being some 250 feet above the 
 level of the sea, and most useful to mariners, is composed of 
 a red sandstone, so soft, and diminishes so unmistakably year 
 by year, that before very long it will be amongst the things 
 that have been. At present there is sufficient accommodation 
 upon it to render it a favourite watering-place of the Ham- 
 burghers, and to entitle it to a British resident. 
 
 The little islands in this part of the world are inhabited 
 by a sort of amphibious population, as the showman declares 
 " What can't live on the land, and dies in the waters ;" expert 
 fishermen, sailors, and dyke-makers, and endued beyond mea- 
 sure with those two invaluable qualities which, when united, 
 are, it is said, capable of accomplishing all things — patience 
 and perseverance. 
 
 The sight of Heligoland made me begin to surmise that the 
 ill-favoured vessel with its sick freight would, perhaps, after all, 
 reach land at some time or other, without a catastrophe; and 
 accordingly the lank and yellow visages set about composing 
 
Chap. I.] THE VOYAGE. 19 
 
 themselves an alteration, which permitted a renewed circulation of 
 venous blood. I began to ask questions seriously of the Captain, 
 quite different from those vacant mechanical interrogatories which 
 are put to the steward and stewardess by helpless prostrate forms, 
 as to where the ship is, and when she will get in ; he said he 
 thought we might possibly arrive very early in the morning, but 
 if the present tide did not float us over the bar some ten miles 
 from Hamburgh, we should have to wait six or seven hours for 
 the return thereof. The shores on each side of the mouth 
 of the Elbe are extremely low, often covered with fog, and 
 therefore difficult to make. There is a light ship, and also a 
 stationary pilot's ship near it. The navigation is very intricate, 
 on account of shoals ; so much so, that the Captain said, 
 though he had known it for years, he thought that if the buoys 
 were removed, no hostile fleet could get up the river in safety. 
 We got our pilot from the ship — a very timid old boy indeed, 
 for, notwithstanding it was anything but dark, he begged 
 we might anchor at once; this our skipper refused to do 
 until we got beyond Cuxhaven, when, finding that all pos- 
 sibility of passing the bar before the next tide was at an 
 end, he brought us up till good light in the morning. 
 Before five o'clock we were again under weigh, with a second 
 pilot, a tall, bold-looking, North Sea mariner. A coldish 
 drizzle early did not feel consolatory in July; however, by 
 
 c 2 
 
20 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 degrees the weather improved, and it was fine and warm by 
 eleven o'clock, when we dropped our anchor at Hamburgh. 
 
 This morning, as is usual on such occasions, all being 
 smooth, the owls and bats came out of their hiding-places, and 
 one is frequently at a loss to make out where the numbers have 
 been stowed away, that then make their appearance in various 
 fantastic guises. The fact is, sea-sickness is a disorder which 
 at once annihilates brotherly love, sympathy, or compassion; 
 no one ever looks at any one during the horrors but the 
 steward or stewardess; their faces become quite familiar, 
 and it is surprising how long one recollects them, after every- 
 thing else belonging to the voyage has faded away. 
 
 There are generally some two or three women out of the 
 mass who have kindly paid a little attention to personal 
 appearance, the more meritorious when one thinks of the 
 resources of the ladies' cabin, for which the other passengers 
 are, or ought to feel, grateful, as the sight is highly refreshing. 
 The male portion usually present an appearance which, were it 
 not for the joyful expectation of a speedy and happy release, 
 would certainly bring back the desagremens of the middle 
 passage. Some few times in one's life one meets with a man 
 or woman — but the latter more frequently — whose natural tidy- 
 ness and fraicheur are proof even to this the sorest trial in 
 life for such qualities; whose gown still appears unruffled, hair 
 
Chap. L] THE VOYAGE. 2 1 
 
 still smooth, and complexion still blooming, and whom, to look 
 upon at such moments, is worth a king's ransom. This was 
 not one of those occasions; but the little fragile invalid whom I 
 mentioned before, had some pretension to an unobstrusive place 
 on the fair side of the picture I have just drawn, and accordingly 
 I was attracted towards her, and we commenced the usual sort of 
 talk. She very willingly told me her story. Her father, who 
 from her description has one of those restless dispositions 
 which ought to belong only to seagoing men, had, it appeared, 
 quitted England some time ago, and after trying various parts 
 of the Continent — and he could not yet speak a word of any 
 language save the vernacular — at last settled, as they supposed, 
 in Hamburgh. After five years, however, that not suiting, he 
 made a purchase of property in one of the new American 
 back States adjoining Wisconsin and Iowa; and to this place the 
 family were actually going to sail, not a week after the date of 
 this conversation, by one of our old American liners, " The 
 Chickesaw Skwampash," or some such name, which we saw 
 in the river on our arrival. She said she believed there was a 
 town somewhere within fifty miles of this property, where they 
 might pass the first winter whilst their wooden house was 
 building, which she deemed to be a comfort. Women, I think, 
 not unfrequently, do make up their minds to such things in a 
 surprising manner ; and certainly a delicate girl of eighteen or 
 
22 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 twenty, speaking French and German, — an invalid, accus- 
 tomed to European luxuries, had something to lose by such an 
 exchange — in short, anything looking less like a backwoods- 
 man I never saw, yet her whole tone was one of perfect com- 
 posure. She described to me with great clearness the route 
 they were to take on their arrival at New York, and the various 
 conveyances, steamer, railroad, lake boat, and waggon, which 
 were to be the means of transporting themselves and their 
 effects to the American Arcadia. It is to be hoped this will, 
 at least, have the effect of occupying the surplus of paternal 
 energy for the rest of his life, and prevent further wander- 
 ings. 
 
 As we approached Hamburgh we were obliged to slacken our 
 speed very much on account of the bar, some ten or twelve miles 
 distant from the city, which some time ago was an effectual 
 barrier to the passage of large vessels, but at length the good 
 bourgeois bethought themselves of dredging, and now, when 
 the tide is in, ships of considerable tonnage can go up to the 
 town, which is as nearly as possible the same distance from the 
 mouth of the Elbe, as London is from that of the Thames. 
 The rain ceased before we reached the shoal, and the river 
 assumed a business-like appearance ; craft of various colours, 
 shapes, and dimensions, plying in every direction; and steamers 
 from the different towns and villages upon the banks carrying 
 
Chap. I.] THE VOYAGE. 23 
 
 their living freights to the great mart of North Germany. On 
 the right the distant Hartz mountains, so famous in legendary 
 lore, give a little variety to the outline as you look over the 
 great flat alluvial expanse which separates them from the sea. 
 On the left the gently- swelling lands of Holstein, and which 
 rise somewhat precipitously, though to no great height, from 
 the river, give endless agreeable sites, which the worthy people 
 of Hamburgh have not been slow to improve. Many a terrace 
 and villa adorn these south-turned slopes, and the sun now 
 shining upon them gave them quite an Italian appearance. 
 
 The rapid change from a cold, drizzling, sickness-bringing, 
 dirt- engendering, tottering sea-voyage, to the composed deck of 
 a vessel smoothly gliding upon the broad expanse of a mag- 
 nificent river, fringed with bright abodes and hanging gardens, 
 all sparkling in the sun, are worth the experience, though the 
 introduction to the Elysian Fields is somewhat rude : — 
 
 " Vestibulum ante ipsum priraisque in faucibus orci ; 
 Luctus et utricis habitant cubilia curae." 
 
 And thus somehow an Englishman, however patriotic and 
 serious he may be — and long may such be his character — is com- 
 pelled for. the moment to surrender himself to the delicious 
 sensations of having got fairly out of the reach of the penny 
 post, the exigencies of aspiring tide-waiters and letter-carriers, 
 
24 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 and other cares of this life. Such were the sensations that I 
 owned, I have no doubt, upon this occasion. The dangers 
 were passed, the ugly old ship had made her way safe across 
 the stormy main, the rain was gone, the sun was out, the trim 
 Dutch costumes enlivened the great boats loaded with the 
 finest vegetables and fruit, which were at all points crossing 
 the river, and unloading at Blancknesee, Altona, and Ham- 
 burgh. 
 
 The passengers were soon employed in collecting together 
 their baggage, and stowing it away as nearly as possible to 
 the place where they supposed the exit would be. 
 
 It was now nearly eleven o'clock, the voyage had endured 
 sixty-two hours, and one must admit, that bidding adieu 
 to the packet was at the moment a most pleasurable thought ; 
 at the same time one should have imagined that the ex- 
 citement would not have been at such a pitch, as not to 
 have allowed the passengers to go down the side ladder quietly 
 one at a time with their effects. Such, however, was no more 
 the case now than upon other similar occasions ; the most 
 imminent risks of immersion were courted for the sake of 
 attempting to get to shore half a minute sooner, the whole 
 result being general delay and confusion — Herr Umkravt's 
 baggage having got by mistake into Fraulein Bumpstein's barge, 
 &c, &c. I felt the same desire to collect my packages, and rush 
 
Chap. L] THE VOYAGE. 25 
 
 out of the steamer, as did the others, but my friend, the Steward 
 with the yellow hair, told me there was no use being in a hurry, 
 so I forced myself to be quiet, and in feigned calmness awaited 
 the operations of my companions. When, however, I did at 
 length proceed to the cabin to perform my duties, I nearly 
 started back at the apparition which presented itself. 
 
 I have already mentioned, that on going down below, 
 the first night, when I became sensible that there were 
 others besides myself in the sleeping cabin, I perceived a man 
 who appeared already somewhat sick, and about to go to 
 bed; I had a sort of vague impression that this individual 
 had not appeared at the general jubilee this morning, but 
 probably should not have given him another thought, had I not 
 entered the cabin as I am now relating. I there saw before me 
 a man whose black curling moustachios and swarthy com- 
 plexion betrayed the influence of a tropical clime, and gave 
 him the air of one of the conquerors of Mexico. He was 
 stretched upon a couch, sustaining himself with difficulty in a 
 semi-recumbent position ; he seemed to be at the point 
 of death, and his haggard, though very handsome features, 
 had apparently settled themselves into a calm and certain 
 anticipation of what was to come. In answer to my question, 
 the Steward informed me that he had been to California, was 
 very ill, and was come to Hamburgh. (This latter fact was in- 
 
26 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 disputable.) He could not understand his language, but 
 believed somebody was coming on board to fetch him. I felt 
 a strange desire to know something more of this singular look- 
 ing being ; but how was I to get information ? certainly not 
 by an attack on the dying man himself — where else ? That 
 was followed by an idea that I ought to offer some assist- 
 ance ; then came an announcement that the boats were along- 
 side (for large vessels cannot get to the quay) — then the 
 luggage was moved out with magnetic attraction, and then 
 somehow, with the fading features of my poor fellow passenger 
 strongly impressed upon me, I found myself — unconscious how 
 I arrived there — seated in a boat with my effects by the side of 
 another man. 
 
 The Portuguese, they say, are so far before the rest of man- 
 kind that they have a way of doing things peculiarly their 
 own, different from all other nations, and of course the best. 
 Most watermen row with their faces towards their passengers, 
 but the men of the Tagus honour them by presenting their 
 backs to their fares. It seems that this custom has been 
 humbly borrowed by those of the Elbe ; for, upon looking up 
 from the reverie into which the last scene of the ship had 
 plunged me, a singular appearance presented itself. All I could 
 perceive was a brown opaque disk, which, upon more mature ex- 
 amination, I ascertained to be the upper portion of an enormous 
 
Chap. I.] THE VOYAGE. 27 
 
 and remarkably well-filled pair of , the owner of them, the 
 
 boatman, being so completely bent forwards, that no other por- 
 tion of his sturdy person was visible to the sitters. We glided 
 swiftly, and as it appeared almost by magic, under stems and 
 sterns, and over hawsers, through a maze of small craft, so 
 close, that a collision seemed constantly imminent, yet always 
 avoided, and, in much less time than is required to narrate the 
 circumstances, we were at the landing-place; then our water- 
 man stood up and displayed a development of the Dutch 
 order, which for strength could hardly be surpassed ; and for 
 address in conducting his nice boat with a pair of sculls 
 through an intricate passage, he must be at the head of his 
 profession. It certainly might occur to one, that a waterman 
 with his back turned to his passengers has a better chance 
 of arriving safely at his destination, than our friends on 
 the Thames, who row one way and look the other. This 
 man must, I think, be a great man, for he was actually 
 contented with his fare, which was so much per passenger and 
 so much per packet, altogether amounting to an insignificant 
 sum. I jumped on shore, my packages were all there, and I told 
 the porter to put them into one of the many open caleches which 
 were on the quay waiting to be hired. I hesitated a moment 
 where I should order him to drive, whether to the new Hotel de 
 l'Europe, which some of my German fellow passengers had re- 
 
28 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 commended, or to Streit's Hotel, which is very well spoken of 
 in an edition of Murray's Hand Book, published before the 
 former was erected. I felt that I was alone, and though I could, 
 with a little fresh practice, find enough German words for the 
 wants of a traveller, yet Streit being half English turned the 
 scale, and to Streit's accordingly I bade my conductor drive. 
 The fiacres here, which are remarkably good and plentiful, have 
 the same name as the Russian carriages, and are called 
 Droskies ; how they came by the name I don't know, for it is 
 not a German word, but it prevails very extensively in North 
 Germany — even, I think, as far as Leipsig. We trotted away, 
 and, soon leaving the quays and the shipping, plunged into the 
 oldest and most picturesque part of the town, where I was not 
 sorry to be protected from the sun by the towering and fanci- 
 fully-decorated gables which lined the narrow streets. Brussels, 
 Ghent, Antwerp, and Amsterdam, were in turns brought to my 
 recollection as I passed by antique gateways and balustraded 
 canals. After a while I came to wider streets, handsomer 
 doubtless, and more commodious, but infinitely less attractive ; 
 aud eventually, after driving perhaps a mile and a half, I 
 emerged upon the Jungferstieg, a great square of water 
 suiTounded by stone quays and stately edifices, about four times 
 the size of Lincoln's Inn Fields. A portion of one corner, near 
 the Exchange, has not yet been completed since the fire, but 
 
Chap. I.] THE VOYAGE. 29 
 
 is in the process of construction, and when that is done, and 
 the trees which line the walks which encompass this magnificent 
 reservoir become a little larger, it will be as splendid an 
 appendage to a town as can possibly be conceived. The 
 situation is charming as an urban residence, because the north- 
 east side of the square is not built upon at all, and the nature 
 of the ground beyond makes it little likely that any town can 
 grow up in that direction, so that a good ventilation is secured ; 
 in fact, there is a great extent of garden and pleasure ground 
 already made in that direction on the sides of a kind of lake, 
 caused by the damming up of the Alster; this operation, 
 effected by floodgates, is extremely valuable, not only for the 
 beauty of this unique square, but also for various sanitary 
 purposes. 
 
 But, to return to the Jungferstieg itself. I was rapidly pere- 
 grinating towards Streit's, and there alighted. Having just 
 read in the Hand Book what was the usual fare, I tendered 
 it to the driver, but, to my surprise and indignation, he rejected 
 it altogether, and insisted upon having double. I was about 
 to break ground in German, by declaring that nothing should 
 induce me to submit to so intolerable an imposition, when the 
 hotel porter, dressed in a superb uniform, seeing what was 
 going on, stepped up and politely informed me, that the re- 
 muneration I had offered was for a single-horse drosky, and 
 
30 THE VOYAGE. [Chap. I. 
 
 that I had inadvertently treated myself to a pair of horses ; so 
 owing to him I lost the opportunity of exercising my argu- 
 mentative powers in German, my temper was spared, and I 
 proceeded to an apartment, the only one out of a prodigious 
 numher they had unoccupied. 
 
 I soon received the delightful intelligence that a bath was 
 close at hand, — and let him who knows not that luxury 
 after a couple of days and nights on hoard a passenger 
 steamer, immediately take his place for the purpose of ex- 
 periencing it; the return to convalescence after severe ill- 
 ness is hardly a greater, though a somewhat more enduring, 
 luxury ; both, however, have, in one respect, the same effect 
 upon the spirits, and I returned to my chamber unquestionably 
 a cleaner and a happier, even if not a better, man, for every evil 
 and malicious thought passed out of my mind ; I forgave both 
 the drosky driver and myself, and was generally inclined to 
 take a roseate view of Hamburgh and its inhabitants. 
 
Chap. II.] HAMBURGH. 31 
 
 CHAPTEK II. 
 
 HAMBURGH. 
 
 The necessary letters having been duly written and de- 
 spatched, I was able somewhat more at leisure to survey the 
 singular trisided square in which I was lodged. I have said 
 the buildings were in keeping with the place, so they struck me 
 as I looked around; but accustomed as I am to see large 
 spaces in German towns occupied by hotels, I was hardly pre- 
 pared to see them in such force, and upon such a scale as they 
 here presented themselves; they surpass even Covent Garden 
 Market, in their relative proportion to other houses, and 
 nearly as much in point of scale as this great square does that 
 little convenient and interesting mart. At first sight every 
 house appeared to be an hotel, and one of the newest, the Hotel de 
 l'Europe, has (I presume there is no window duty, but if there is) 
 just one hundred taxable windows to this front ; what may be the 
 dimensions of the Astor, and other hotels in America I never 
 heard, nor do I remember to have seen any representation of 
 
32 HAMBURGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 those far-famed places of reception ; but I imagine this to be 
 the largest hotel in Europe, and I am told that its recommenda- 
 tions are by no means confined to a magnificent exterior. On 
 the same side, but some way beyond it, are some imposing- 
 looking private houses, with charming gardens coming down to 
 the promenade, betraying every symptom of wealth and luxury. 
 In driving about the suburbs of London, which grow visibly 
 as one passes, and become almost metamorphosed from year to 
 year, one keeps intuitively asking oneself, if not exclaiming to 
 one's companion, who can occupy all these houses ? and yet 
 the sight of a bill is rare. On this occasion, I repeated to 
 myself an inquiry I have often before made, forced upon me 
 especially at this moment, when I had difficulty in procuring a 
 lodging in one house, and had reason to believe that the 
 others were equally full, what is it in Germany that makes 
 such prodigious hotel accommodation necessary ? I asked, 
 whether any event caused an unusual influx of visitors at 
 this particular moment? but received the usual answer, no, 
 but that the place was almost always filled, especially in 
 summer. I am therefore unable to give myself a satisfactory 
 reply. It is true that a great many Germans of a par- 
 ticular class never dine at home, partly because it saves a 
 servant, and partly because the table d'hote, like our clubs in 
 London, by means of combination, affords every gastronomic 
 
Chap. II.] HAMBURGH. 33 
 
 luxury at a moderate cost*. That will explain the dimen- 
 sions of the Speise Saal, with its never-failing gallery for 
 the orchestra; but the occupants of the bed-rooms are yet to 
 be accounted for : all I can say from my own observation 
 is, that, besides travellers for pleasure, there are generally 
 many officers, but what particular class — learned, literary, or 
 money-making — it is that predominates, or why it is so loco- 
 motive, I am not at present in condition to inform myself, any 
 more than I am who the imaginary beings are that flow into the 
 new houses in our suburbs as soon as they are constructed, or 
 whether they were houseless before, living, as my friend 
 Shaftesbury would conclude, under a dry arch. 
 
 Having philosophized a little, and indulged myself with a 
 plan of the town, I hired a laquais- de-place, and this time a 
 one-horse drosky, and bid him drive slowly about in the fine 
 
 * In a domestic point of view the German institution has this advantage over the 
 English — that the whole family, husband, wife, and children, may together partake 
 of the luxury, whereas in England, I have heard it said, that the gentleman fares 
 sumptuously every day, while the lady and the rest of the family are left to do the 
 best they can, with the maid-of-all-work, in their two- windowed house or their lodg- 
 ing, as the case may be. There is something quite refreshing in the quiet and simple 
 air of a German officer and his wife, and, perhaps, a half-grown up son or daughter 
 passing into the Speise Saal to take their places at the table, neither flaunting nor 
 vulgar, nor overdrest nor nervously staring about to see what the rest of the guests 
 may think of their general appearance, a feeling which we English can hardly ever 
 rid ourselves of, and then not sitting down with a noise which is meant to indicate 
 the self-possession that is absent. 
 
34 HAMBURGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 warm afternoon amongst the most agreeable portions of the 
 town. First, however, I desired him to gratify my curiosity by 
 showing me the great church, which I thought had been already 
 finished by Scott, — formerly Scott and Moffat, — to whom 
 England is so much indebted for improvements and economy 
 in church architecture. I found it not far off, excellently 
 situated in the centre of a place, but not above thirty feet 
 out of the ground, and proceeding very slowly indeed for want 
 of funds. Some thirty men might have been at work upon it; 
 the town can afford no more just now, having been obliged 
 to contract an enormous debt in consequence of the fire. 
 The returns will eventually be considerable, when all the 
 buildings are completed and occupied; but who that is cognizant 
 of the transactions relating to the improvements in London, 
 does not know, that the process of reimbursement is but slow, 
 except in rare instances? The building should have been 
 entirely of stone, but I presume the difficulty of procuring 
 it at a reasonable price in the neighbourhood of Hamburgh 
 has led to its being of a fine white brick, with stone quoins ; 
 the interior is all of stone. It is not easy to have an accurate 
 idea, from present appearances, what the effect of the whole 
 will be when accomplished, but the columns inside, which were 
 nearly all up, struck me as light and graceful, and I could not 
 help viewing, with some satisfaction and interest, the work of 
 
Chap. II.] HAMBURGH. 35 
 
 a fellow-countryman, who had won the employment in pre- 
 ference to a vast number of foreign rivals, himself the only 
 English competitor*. Whether this church, or the Cathedral 
 of Cologne, will first be finished, remains to be seen. 
 
 Having duly satisfied myself as to the state and prospects of 
 this edifice, I turned to my guide, who begged me to walk with 
 him a short way to see something worth seeing, and I soon 
 found he had very correct ideas upon this subject. This 
 sight was not the Exchange, but its population. The 
 building itself is one of moderate antiquity and respectable 
 appearance, larger in its internal area, much more com- 
 modious, and somewhat lighter than our more splendid 
 Tite-an structure in the City. It was saved by a miracle 
 from the conflagration, not being attacked, like ours, with 
 a fit of spontaneous combustion; everything around it was 
 destroyed, but I suppose it was saved by the Lares, or Penates, 
 or Deus Loci of the city, for certainly it is The Temple of the 
 town, where people offer their daily sacrifice. 
 
 One could very well have satisfied oneself without seeing this 
 building ; — not so the scene which presented itself. It was the 
 witching hour of afternoon business ; we soon got into one of 
 the tributary streams which were pouring their human tide to- 
 wards it, and in a moment were drifted into it, and up one of the 
 
 * A model of this church was in our Great Exhibition. 
 
 D 2 
 
36 HAMBURGH. ' [Chap. II. 
 
 staircases leading to a gallery which goes all round the interior. 
 Every moment seemed to add to the density of the crowd, 
 and to the force of that deep and strange sound, ehhing and flow- 
 ing, swelling and dying away, which arises from a crowd of men 
 engaged in earnest conversation. I have often stopped in one 
 of the crowded alleys of our City, and watched the faces and gait 
 of the passers hy. They are silent, thoughtful, rapid, intent, 
 greeting none hy the way, except sometimes with a very slight 
 glance of recognition, — everything reminds you that you are 
 in a place where the motto is, business first, and pleasure, if 
 at all, afterwards; but I never met with anything there, which 
 indicated the intensity of the Hamburgh merchant's feelings as 
 he approaches his well-beloved 'Change. The reason probably 
 is, because he feels he has a great deal to do in a short time, 
 for he is a man that has other things to do besides. He will 
 not altogether be a slave to his counter — he will have his siesta 
 in hot weather — smoke, formerly his canaster, nowhisHavannah 
 — and drink his coffee, or eat his ice in his luxurious house, or 
 his cafe on the Jungfersteig, as the case may be. Certainly upon 
 the 25th of July, 1851, they set themselves to the work of 
 bargaining in real earnest; so much so, that I felt quite as if 
 every one I met inwardly exclaimed, " What on earth is that 
 idle blockhead doing here ?" and that if I remained much 
 longer I should experience the fate of a luckless intruder into 
 
Chap. II.] HAMBURGH. 37 
 
 the mysteries of Capel Court; so, I begged my guide to precede 
 me, slunk away, and was not sorry to find myself outside the 
 walls again, clear of this excited crowd. 
 
 The one-horse chaise then conveyed myself and ciceroni 
 to the Boulevards which surround the town, and which 
 are admirably laid out in garden, drive, and pleasure 
 ground, of the utmost importance both to the comfort and 
 health of the inhabitants. The fortifications having been 
 considerable, and the mounds of earthworks very great, you find 
 yourself not unfrequently upon elevated sites which afford most 
 agreeable views in every direction ; notably where the walks ter- 
 minate at the north-western extremity of the town, and where, 
 ending in a sort of bluff, they overhang the river. Thence you 
 have a view of the town and shipping and country beyond, which, 
 on a fine summer day, and seen for the first time, is enchanting. 
 This spot has only one bad quality, namely, its proximity to a 
 most villainous suburb, called Hamburgh er-Burg, debatable 
 ground, about half- a mile in width, and the same in depth, be- 
 tween the Hamburgh and Danish territories; through it the main 
 road passes to Altona. It is the general resort and demoral- 
 izer of the unfortunate sailors, who, poor fellows, are pecu- 
 liarly open to such temptations. It consists of penny theatres, 
 itinerant shows, dancing houses, low taverns, and lodging- 
 houses, and is inhabited as one may suppose it would be 
 
38 HAMBURGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 under such circumstances. My guide insisted upon driving me 
 through it, to which I gave a reluctant consent, for I have no 
 vocation for such sights; and it certainly would have furnished 
 one of the present race of French novelists with a supply of 
 fuel not likely soon to be exhausted. The very air felt sulphur- 
 ous and sickly ; and it was my fate, for the second time in this 
 great city, to rejoice in an escape from the sight I was seeing. 
 
 Whilst standing over the Elbe, on the eminence already 
 described, my guide pointed out to me certain barracks and a 
 tavern, where the recent scuffle had taken place between the 
 Austrian soldiers quartered there (a strange locality to have 
 been selected for such a purpose) and some of the people, 
 which ended in their firing, and several persons were killed. 
 It is represented to have been a wanton sacrifice of life, 
 and to have been occasioned partly by the soldiers — who are 
 Foreign — not understanding the language and ways of the 
 people, and partly by the want of conduct, if not something 
 worse, displayed by those in command. 
 
 I had heard on board the packet, from various individuals, 
 of the unpopularity of the Austrians here, of whom they spoke 
 in the bitterest terms, and this event, as may be supposed, has 
 not tended to make matters better. I happened casually to in- 
 quire whether any of their magnificent military bands were likely 
 to play where I could hear them ? The answer was, " They 
 
 
Chap. II.] HAMBURGH. 39 
 
 seldom play, except in private, for some Austrian officer; and if 
 they do so in public, not a man will remain to hear them." I 
 saw many officers about — they had not the air of men who 
 think themselves in comfortable quarters, — indeed I was assured 
 that the usual Hamburgh fairs could not safely be held, in con- 
 sequence of the strength of this anti- Austrian sentiment. Upon 
 further acquaintance, I found so much asperity existing between 
 the Austrians and Prussians, that they seemed incapable of re- 
 straining it. The feeling of the Hamburghers was very much 
 with the Holsteiners in their wars, and they gave them quietly 
 as much assistance as they could. They have now no friendly 
 feeling towards the Prussian Government for their vacillating 
 policy in the Schleswig-Holstein question, only they persuade 
 themselves it has been owing to the interference of Austria, 
 being determined, apparently, to find the latter power wrong in 
 everything. 
 
 It is said to be an Englishman's passion to mount an 
 eminence whenever he arrives at a new place; if so, I plead 
 guilty to the impeachment. An excellent opportunity of grati- 
 fying my desire was here afforded me, at small cost, by ascend- 
 ing the tower of St. Michael's Church. This tower is — I forget 
 how many feet high — but I suspect, steeple included, it is the 
 highest in Europe. The inside of the church is also worth 
 seeing, for in one respect it is also a phenomenon ; being the 
 
40 HAMBURGH. [Chap. II 
 
 largest pewed church known ; the mass of thick oak timber 
 in it is inconceivable; and it will, it is said, contain 3000 
 sitters. The pulpit is ingeniously placed, to give all who come 
 a chance of hearing. I believe, in the Lutheran service, they 
 care more for the sermon than the prayers, and more for the 
 psalm-singing than either. Their canticles are selected in part 
 from the Psalms, but also from the works of Schiller, and other 
 of their favourite poets — not always with very strict reference 
 to the orthodoxy of the sentiments they contain. The organ 
 case is of prodigious size, and my guide assured me the instru- 
 ment itself was also a wonder in its way. 
 
 Ascents to great heights are usually fatiguing, — not the least 
 so church towers; and one usually has the additional incon- 
 venience of twisting round a corkscrew-stair till one is giddy, 
 tumbling over broken steps in the dark, and having one's hat 
 forced suddenly in an irritating manner over one's eyes, till 
 stopped by the pons sacer of the nose. Occasionally, also, 
 one emerges from the obscurity to have one's nerves sorely 
 tried by a precipitous view of some hundred feet below, with a 
 fragile rail or low parapet as the only safeguard. St. Michael's 
 Tower is an exception to the rule; you can ascend by the church 
 galleries, and find an excellent staircase with a massive hand-rail. 
 In the tower the flooring is so contrived, that you have not to 
 look down more than some twenty or twenty-five feet at any 
 
Chap. II.] HAMBURGH. 41 
 
 time. The tower is of a curious and very unusual construc- 
 tion. To the height of the church-roof, or thereabouts, it 
 is built of stone, but upwards of wood covered outside with 
 metal plates, which give it a sort of purple-brown colour. At 
 a considerable altitude, the square part terminates in a balcony, 
 and thence rises a spire, supported by four flying buttresses 
 resting upon the angles of the tower. I am astonished that it 
 has never suffered from lightning. The stupendous mass of 
 wood, both in the tower and church, seems to be fearfully 
 exposed to the conflagrations which it is made use of to pre- 
 vent ; for the fire-watch resides here, in a snug little apartment, 
 above the world; and one of the two men so stationed 
 makes his rounds every hour, sounding the bell gently if all is 
 well. 
 
 My previous tower- mounting expeditions, as will have been 
 perceived, not having been altogether without drawbacks, I found 
 myself, on the present occasion, entering the lofty balcony in 
 great good humour, which was further increased by a contrivance 
 in the shape of a wooden flounce, extending outwards, carried all 
 round the foot of the balcony, very much like the similar 
 apparatus of a panorama, and which entirely took off the dizzy 
 effect of a perpendicular view. The prospect is not very 
 Alpine; but it is singularly extensive, and by no means 
 devoid either of beauty or interest. In the first place, 
 
42 HAMBURGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 I don't know how far others sympathize with me in the feeling, 
 hut when I see a great river like the Elhe, the highway of 
 North German commerce, beneath my feet, rolling majestically 
 onwards towards the ocean, bearing its industrial freights upon 
 its bosom, and diffusing the blessings of a bounteous creation 
 on all sides, I fall at once to musing upon the stories of the 
 lands through which it passes: the rise of the House of 
 Hohenzollern, — the strange and romantic vicissitudes of the 
 waning Saxon dynasty, — the heroes of the great religious 
 struggle, — the sack of Magdeburgh, — the theses of Witten- 
 burgh, — Huss, Ziska, Schiller, Gothe, and Frederick — and 
 the times that have been, and are, and may be — all swept 
 through my mind, like the wild huntsman on the Hartz, on 
 which I was partly gazing. I traced the silver flood wandering 
 amongst the greenest pastures for many a mile, — the whole 
 country teeming with ripening produce, — and, in the stillness of 
 the day, and the isolation of the place, my mind was lifted up 
 to the merciful and beneficent Contriver of this glorious scene, 
 and I felt that here, too, the earth was returning 
 
 ■ The gifts by nature given 
 In softest incense back to Heaven." 
 
 I was not only interested, but agreeably surprised, with the 
 appearance of Holstein. I daresay I have read letters from 
 the Times Commissioner about this province, which, had I 
 
Chap. II.] HAMBURGH. 43 
 
 paid sufficient attention to them, would have given me a tole- 
 rably accurate idea of what I now saw ; but I fancy that, from 
 a former visit to Copenhagen, I got a sort of notion that all the 
 state of Denmark was alike, a sandy, dull, flat, monotonous coun- 
 try, without beauty, and without variety. Here, however, I was 
 quickly undeceived ; for, although the features are not very strik- 
 ing, the surface is broken into swelling hills and deepening dales, 
 — woods, water, and cultivation blended in harmonious sweet- 
 ness, and looking as if it would furnish enough, in corn and 
 cattle, to feed half the world. A severe agricultural twinge for a 
 moment disturbed the complacent current of my thoughts, in- 
 spired by the appearance of so much productive power ; but so 
 many favourable circumstances combined at that moment to 
 give my thoughts an agreeable colour, that it passed away, 
 and I don't know how much longer I might have remained in 
 this dreamy state — 
 
 " Far from the maddening crowd's ignoble strife " — 
 
 had not the young gentleman who accompanied me, thinking 
 probably he had done enough for the remuneration fixed 
 by tariff for these excursions, called my attention to some 
 building or tower which it was part of his duty to point out. 
 I don't like showmen generally, and it is not my pleasure to 
 have information forced upon me; I like my ciceroni to re- 
 
44 HAMBURGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 main silent till I choose to ask a question. However, I must 
 do this lad the justice to say, that he was by no means 
 the worst of his order, and answered my questions without 
 adding long stories of his own. To be sure, when I de- 
 sired to be shown the Altona and Keil Kailway, he assured 
 me it was invisible (a strong assertion, considering the height 
 of the tower), till I showed him a train I had discovered in 
 the act of leaving the terminus. 
 
 There are several islands opposite Hamburgh, in the Elbe ; 
 in consequence of which, the terminus of the direct railway to 
 France and England by Hanover is at Waarburg, about three 
 miles off; to get to which it is necessary to go by steam — a 
 roundabout passage. They are, however, preparing to bring 
 it across these obstacles, arid place it on the bank immediately 
 opposite the town, so that goods may be transferred, at once, 
 to and from the ships. 
 
 It is extraordinary how little, almost no suburb, at first 
 sight, this great commercial city, of a class peculiarly fertile in 
 that species of adjunct, appears to possess. What there is 
 stretches in an elongated line both up and down the river, 
 but especially towards Altona, — and beyond that, again, 
 towards Blancknesee. The churches struck me as being enor- 
 mously large, and but few in number in proportion to the 
 houses. There is but one small Komanist place of worship. 
 
Chap. II.] HAMBURGH. 45 
 
 I descended my tower, felt I had done my duty, and, what is 
 not always the case, that I had derived substantial pleasure 
 from the act at the same time. A light thunder- shower which 
 passed over compelled me for a moment to convert my convey- 
 ance from open to close. I saw in the Great Exhibition some 
 most elaborate contrivances for a similar combination; but if 
 anybody wishes for a sample of an inexpensive and perfectly- 
 efficient contrivance, let him eschew the Great Exhibition, and 
 learn wisdom at the feet of a Hamburgh drosky-maker. I 
 was so much pleased with the carriage, that I had almost de- 
 termined to become proprietor in fee-simple of the vehicle which 
 bore me; fortunately, however, I made no offer at the moment, 
 the idea swiftly evaporated, and so we passed on through one of 
 the most detestable and nefarious streets within and below the 
 ramparts, it was ever my misfortune to traverse. It seemed like 
 a continuation of Hamburgher Burgh upon a slightly- ascending 
 scale; and the pavement was so bad that we could hardly go 
 out of a foot's pace. I remonstrated — begged I might be 
 driven away from this horrid den of dirt and vice; but it 
 seemed like the fabulous long lane that had no turning, and, 
 before I got fairly out of it, my delicate organs of digestion 
 showed symptoms of a returning disorder. I endeavoured to 
 extract an explanation from my laquais; but, somehow, his 
 German and mine, when we quitted the ordinary routine, 
 
46 HAMBURGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 did not fit, and I ended, somewhat uncertain whether he 
 took me for some great moral reformer, come for the pur- 
 pose of organizing a society for the suppression of vice, or 
 whether he was tired of his jaunt, and wished to go the nearest 
 way home. 
 
 At the inn I arrived somewhere about half-past six. I don't 
 very much care what I have for my dinner, if it is only masti- 
 cable and apparently clean, and I was not yet sufficiently 
 recovered from the preceding two days' disturbance, even had I 
 wished it, to enjoy the pleasures of the table. But those who 
 desire such things should beware of dining late in Germany. 
 The size of a German kitchen would quite astonish any one 
 who has only known our British furnaces, with all their ap- 
 pendages. It is not very much bigger than a ship's galley, 
 and it has to perform its daily task not only of furnishing 
 dinners and suppers, but also breakfast, and any other supplies 
 of coffee, tea, or chocolate, that may be wanted during the day 
 — such an invention as a still-room being unknown. They 
 make provisions for the diners from twelve to three, after which 
 the servants dine, by which time the whole supply of viands, 
 there being no such pieces de resistance as rounds of beef 
 or legs of mutton, is fairly eaten up, and the fragments car- 
 ried off in order to give space for the preparation of the final 
 refection. The supper lasts from eight to ten, and so entirely 
 
Chap. II.] HAMBURGH. 47 
 
 have I known the provisions to be disposed of during the day, 
 that, coming in late at night to an inn in a large town, 
 I have been unable to get a bit of anything but a piece of 
 uninviting bread, and some twice-boiled half-sour milk. Our 
 habits differ widely in this, as in many other respects, from 
 theirs. But though their cooking apparatus falls below what 
 great lovers of order and cleanliness would desire, yet we have 
 been custom-ridden to such a degree in England, that we are now 
 compelled to have a different servant and a different space allotted 
 for every meal provided. You can generally get an eatable 
 soup, a bit of ragged bouilli, some good potatoes, rather highly 
 buttered, and a pudding; but, if you dine as late as I did 
 on this day, you will not fail to remark that, although ordered 
 beforehand, what was prepared at three is better partaken of 
 then, than four hours after. After a while I walked out. The 
 evening was warm and pleasant, and the lights on the Jungfer- 
 steig sparkled like stars in the broad expanse of water. There 
 are two very fashionable cafes on different sides of the square, 
 which somewhat intrude upon the uniformity of the stone quay, 
 because they are built out from it over the water on piles, or, I 
 should perhaps say, wooden pillars. However, they add much 
 to the brilliancy of the scene when the shades of evening 
 advance, and furnish endless little tables and fountains of tea, 
 coffee, chocolate, and liqueurs, with ices and cakes to all 
 comers indiscriminately. There is generally an opera, but 
 
48 HAMBURGH. [Chap. II. 
 
 there was no performance this evening. There are Casino de 
 Venice, Tauz-reunions, and such like, without end, for which 
 this town has an enviable or unenviable notoriety. The music 
 both for concert and ball excellent; my leanings were not in 
 that direction, — I was tired, — and the train for Leipsig was ap- 
 pointed to start at seven the next morning, so I indulged myself 
 with a stroll in the pleasure-ground beyond the Jungfersteig. I 
 should have forgotten this fact, but for one circumstance. I 
 had walked two or three hundred yards, had passed no gate, 
 and was returning in an abstracted mood, when I was half 
 brought back to consciousness by the interpellation of a dis- 
 cordant voice. As there were two or three people passing, 
 and I was walking as I thought harmlessly in the middle of a 
 broad path, it never occurred to me that I could be the subject 
 of the objurgation. However, I had not made two more 
 steps before the same thing was again repeated, and a 
 sentry placed himself across my path. I was very much 
 astonished, and somewhat alarmed, at so rough a reception 
 the first day of my being alone in a foreign land. My 
 interrogator, who was not the sentinel but an irritable little 
 old man in a long coat, in answer to my request for an 
 explanation, which he either did not or would not understand, 
 pointed to a small building close by, which in the gloaming I 
 had not perceived, and peremptorily ordered me to proceed 
 thither. I was wondering what would come next, when the 
 
Chap. II.] HAMBURGH. 49 
 
 window, in which there was a light, opened, and a man, who 
 was sitting by it playing at cards, putting down his hand at Put, 
 demanded a Schelling. All at once I recollected that, whilst 
 reading the invaluable red-book during the morning, I had ob- 
 served that a custom prevailed, when Hamburgh was a fortified 
 town, of demanding a small toll from all persons who came 
 into it after sunset — I suppose a sort of fee to the gatekeeper 
 for his trouble, which augmented as the hours became later, the 
 trouble being presumed to increase in the ratio of the sleep- 
 iness of the warden, and the chances of his being in bed. The 
 book, however, did not tell me — what I now discovered to be 
 the case — that the custom still continues, and the toll is levied 
 at such imaginary boundaries as that I have described, namely, 
 the middle of a gravel walk. Think of a free-born Englishman 
 being compelled to pay a toll after sunset half-way up Constitu- 
 tion Hill ! It turned out, therefore, that it was my having been 
 guilty of attempting to pass the city gates without perceiving 
 them, and of not paying the warden for the hardship of having 
 to open them for me after sunset, which had caused all this piece 
 of work. My fears being allayed, and this onerous tax of a 
 Schelling, somewhat about the value of a penny, being duly 
 discharged, I proceeded on my way, and reached the hotel 
 without further molestation. 
 
 E 
 
50 THE RAILWAY. [Chap. III. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE RAILWAY. 
 
 The following morning dawned brightly; I had breakfasted, 
 and was in my one-horse drosky on my way to the station 
 by a quarter to seven, conning my Hendschel's Telegraph, 
 which is the German Bradshaw — only even more complicated 
 and difficult for men of ordinary tabular development, and 
 less correct. I had a vivid recollection of the sieges laid 
 to the platforms of the various metropolitan termini during 
 the six weeks which preceded my departure ; the mountains of 
 luggage which all the experience and expertness of the London 
 and North -Western officials was scarcely able to contend with; 
 the crowd and confusion of passengers, and the lateness of 
 trains ; and I chuckled to myself as I reflected upon the mise- 
 ries of my friends at home, and the comparative comfort and 
 tranquillity of the entrance I was about to effect into the 
 terminus of the railway leading from Hamburgh to Berlin, 
 Dresden, &c. Shortly, however — owing to the great number of 
 
Chap. III.] THE RAILWAY. 51 
 
 return droskies and omnibuses I met when approaching the 
 station — I began to entertain a suspicion that I might, perhaps, 
 be reckoning without my host. This suspicion was speedily 
 converted into a reality, upon my coming in view of my des- 
 tination. Not the platform, but the external entrances were 
 inapproachable, from the crowd of struggling would-be passen- 
 gers. No porter, clad in striped velveteen, or any other 
 uniform, appeared to take charge of the baggage ; the hour of 
 departure was rapidly approaching ; and I felt as if my journey 
 was, like the course of true love, never to run smooth. What 
 was to be done ? I thought to myself, this crowd never would 
 be engaged in such a mortal struggle if the train did not start 
 at the hour fixed, and a glance at the Telegraph showed me 
 that it was the only one in the day that went my road. The 
 fever seemed to be infectious, and for a moment I thought of 
 grasping my baggage, and throwing myself in desperation into 
 the swaying throng. However, I had sufficient presence of 
 mind to restrain this movement, and I prevailed with some 
 difficulty upon the drosky- driver to keep my effects on his 
 carriage whilst I searched for an official. After a while I 
 found one, and he undertook to get my ticket for me. I ac- 
 companied him, and with great exertions got near the bureau, 
 w hen — judge my horror ! — the man refused to take the thaler 
 notes which I had got in exchange for English money in payment 
 
 E 2 
 
52 THE RAILWAY. [Chap. III. 
 
 of the fare. Now to stay another day at Hamburgh would not 
 have been such a dreadful misfortune, but I had made up my 
 mind that everything depended upon my getting on quick to 
 Carlsbad; and, besides, there is that universal truth — which is 
 ten times more true when the individual is of the fidgety order, 
 and the place is a foreign country — 
 
 " Noja piu una miglia in dietro que dieci in avanti." 
 
 My feelings of annoyance were indescribable ; I vowed ven- 
 geance against the faithless money-changer. I bethought me 
 if I had any other sort of money ; and recollected I had a 
 few sovereigns in a writing-box in my portmanteau. I thought 
 it hardly possible I could get them out in time, yet still I might 
 make the trial, and accordingly I rushed frantically out to find 
 my drosky, amongst the eight or ten remaining there. Very 
 strangely, and fortunately, as it afterwards turned out, although 
 it had never stirred from the spot where I had left it, 
 I was utterly unable to find it, and my despair was au 
 comble. I again felt as if under the influence of an evil genius, 
 but I returned to look for my friendly official, and told him what 
 was the case, and asked him to go to the bureau to inquire if 
 they would take the English money if I could produce it. 
 Meanwhile the crowd had completely left the first and second 
 class ticket bureau, and was confined to the third and luggage 
 department, and when we got to the man of office, to my infi- 
 
Chap. III.] THE RAILWAY. 53 
 
 nite satisfaction, but not small surprise, he made not the least 
 objection to take the money, which he had so peremptorily 
 refused before, and the reason of which, except it was from 
 irritation caused by the quantity of dirty hands that were 
 thrusting themselves at him at once, I am yet ignorant. This 
 operation being concluded, I sallied forth with my civil friend 
 to look almost hopelessly again after my baggage, expecting 
 every moment to hear the fatal signal ; when it seemed as if 
 it had vanished and returned again, for, as I have said, there 
 it was, exactly on the spot where I had left it ; and the official, 
 being then I presume struck by my flurried manner, informed 
 me of a fact which he might as well have mentioned previously 
 — namely, that the turmoil was perfectly unnecessary, because 
 the train would not start till all were accommodated. 
 
 I learned afterwards that the unusual number of persons 
 congregated on this occasion was owing to a great many third- 
 class excursioners, who were returning — on this the last day 
 allowed by the bargain for so doing — to Berlin, and the 
 struggle was caused by a desire to obtain certain seats in the 
 train for that class of passengers, which are considered more 
 agreeable. 
 
 My mind being now set at rest, after about a quarter of an 
 hour of tenter-hooks — for it took nearly that length of time to 
 go through what I have described — I felt as much elated as I 
 had before been depressed, and I waited quietly, with all the 
 
54 THE RAILWAY. [Chap. III. 
 
 pride of conscious superiority, which, considering recent events, 
 was singularly misplaced. I watched the intense jostling which 
 was still going on between the proprietors of the various pack- 
 ages, each endeavouring to get before his neighbour, to the 
 inevitable weighing-machine. 
 
 The strife was no joke, for I actually saw the rivalry in one 
 case terminate by an appeal to arms; but the weapons, being 
 the open hand, and not the double fist, did not leave any very 
 serious traces. During my ten minutes' waiting, I could not 
 help observing how singularly adroit and rapid the porters were 
 in weighing, marking, making out the accounts, and stowing 
 away the mass of trunks and boxes ; and if they had only had 
 porters, as we have, to take away the baggage as it arrives, 
 nearly all this confusion might have been avoided. At length, 
 after a lapse of about half an hour from the time of my advent, 
 the necessary preliminaries having all been gone through, I 
 found myself on a narrowish platform, by the side of a very 
 long train, all the carriages filled, except the two or three first- 
 class, which are never otherwise than sparingly occupied. The 
 second-class ones are much better than our own, and are made 
 use of by all but the fastidious. I inquired where I was to 
 insert myself as going to Leipsig, and was civilly shown to 
 a carriage, at the door of which were some people talking 
 eagerly, and laughing with a good-looking young lady, who 
 was the only occupant of it. I made my way as politely as I 
 
Chap. III.] THE RAILWAY. 55 
 
 could through the knot, and found myself in a compartment 
 divided into six seats, which were, in fact, arm-chairs, with 
 spring cushions, very handsomely fitted up with the finest 
 cloth. 
 
 After taking this survey of my conveyance, I turned my 
 attention to the group at the door, and was not long in dis- 
 covering that it was a bridal party, though until the hell (not 
 a trumpet here) had sounded, I could not exactly make out 
 which was the happy man. However, upon that event taking 
 place, my doubts upon that point were set at rest by the ingress 
 of the fortunate youth ; at the same time, another man, not of 
 the party, took possession of the seat opposite to mine, and, 
 having done so, scrutinized me somewhat more closely than 
 was agreeable. We had but one engine, and I had some 
 misgivings as to how we should get on, remembering to have 
 been told that I should be very late at Leipsig, though 
 my Telegraph said half-past eight. I was soon made aware 
 that no engineering difficulties presented themselves, the coun- 
 try being as flat as any railway projector could desire, 
 and we travelled a very fair pace towards our first halt. 
 No sooner had we arrived there than it seemed as if the train 
 had turned out all its first passengers, and new ones were taking 
 their places, accompanied to the doors by all their rela- 
 tions and friends. What the meaning of it all was I am not 
 
56 THE RAILWAY. [Chap. III. 
 
 sure, but it happened at every halt, and the result was, a talk- 
 ing, confusion, and delay, perfectly astounding to English ideas. 
 This confusion was heightened by the cries of the vendors of 
 certain articles of refection which we are not accustomed at 
 home to see carried about with the newspapers, and which 
 require some description, as the nomenclature of one — and 
 that the principal one — does not give a distinct idea of the 
 breadth of its meaning. Achtes Baierisches Bier — genuine 
 Bavarian beer — although, probably, it was brewed not more 
 than half a mile from the place where it is so announced — is 
 phraseology which has no disguise; but the great feature 
 amongst the offerings for sale is that which is contained in a 
 basket covered with a napkin, and which goes by the name of 
 Butterbrod. Now, butter is butter, and brod is bread, and, un- 
 questionably, Butterbrod does, even here, mean bread and butter; 
 but it also means a good deal more ; because, besides a roll cut 
 in half, and pretty well smeared with an oleaginous compound, 
 upon the top of this is laid either caviar, cheese, sausage, 
 Kipper Salmon, or cold meat, and by rejoining the dissevered 
 sections of the roll, with more than one of these adjuncts, as is 
 often done, you may indulge yourself in two courses at once — 
 always provided your mouth is of sufficient dimensions, and 
 your mastication powerful enough to make the first incision into 
 the globular mass before you. This food — which is for the pur- 
 
Chap. III.] THE RAILWAY. 57 
 
 pose of staying the stomach until the longer halts allow of a 
 protracted assault upon more substantial viands — is highly in 
 vogue, and, with a full train like ours, the supply, in the earlier 
 hours, was hardly equal to the demand. 
 
 I gathered from the conversation of my newly-married couple 
 — which flowed on in a continuous stream — that they had been 
 very recently united — had been to pay a visit to some relations 
 at Hamburgh, who had accompanied them to the train, and 
 were going home again to some place in North Prussia. They 
 appeared to be in very comfortable circumstances, and though 
 certainly they were rather demonstrative, the lady had yet an 
 air of refinement about her which was captivating to me, and 
 harmonized with the train of my ideas, which were roseate, my 
 difficulties having been surmounted, and myself proceeding 
 smoothly on my journey in a comfortable arm-chair, the weather 
 fine, and the air balmy ; so that I looked complacently on this 
 young love, and thought of their pleasant dream of life. My 
 other neighbour scrutinized them with all his might, which again 
 made me feel indignant ; but this time the feeling was virtuous, 
 because I felt he had no right to be prying too nicely into the 
 hallowed scene. Thus we went on to the second station, where 
 the bridegroom got out, with an air of affectionate solicitude, as 
 I supposed, to get a bouquet for the cynosure of his eyes ; — but 
 my pen almost refuses to narrate the sequel. In the twinkling 
 
58 THE RAILWAY. [Chap. III. 
 
 of an eye, with a joyous countenance, he returned to the girl 
 of his heart, with a Butterbrod adorned with caviar and 
 sausage. For a moment I felt convinced she would scornfully 
 reject the proffered indignity; but, alas! the truth must be 
 spoken — the pledge of affection was accepted with gratitude, 
 inspected with the eager glance of desire, and the open mouth 
 of appetite: I saw no more, but sunk down in my corner 
 with averted eyes and a broken heart. 
 
 My scrutinizing friend began to rise in my estimation, for 
 although he had been out on the other side for a similar pur- 
 pose, and brought back some unequivocal traces of what he 
 had been about, still he had never deceived me, and there was 
 a singularity about him which attracted my attention; the 
 next halt — a branch railway at Kostock — relieved me from the 
 oppressive young couple, and I devoted myself exclusively to 
 the study of my remaining companion, who turned out as much 
 better than I expected, as the others had done the contrary. 
 I was, as I have said, prejudiced against him, because he exa- 
 mined me with impertinent minuteness, and that prejudice 
 was increased by certain twitchings of the mouth and nose, and 
 other personal movements, indicating a high degree of nervous 
 agitation. I hate fidgety people at all times, but especially 
 when I wished— post tot discrimina — to be allowed the un- 
 molested enjoyment of that sort of repose to which, with a body 
 
Chap. III.] THE RAILWAY. 59 
 
 and mind quite at ease, and passing rapidly through the air 
 on a fine day, one is always inclined. 
 
 Existence was at this conjuncture a pleasure. I felt I had 
 earned my holiday, and had all the inclination in the world to 
 enjoy a pleasant day-dream. I have told how the first attempt to 
 interweave the flowers of passing events into my illusive garland 
 had been rudely shocked, and I now felt as if fate had resolved 
 that I should he thwarted altogether in my innocent recreations. 
 My companion got out at every station, — changed his seat several 
 times, — pared his nails, and at length, to my infinite discon- 
 tent, infected me with his own disquietude, by actually walk- 
 ing up and down the carriage whilst the train was on its way. 
 I could endure it no longer, for my irritability began to give 
 place to some alarm as to what might happen next; so I broke 
 silence with some trivial question, and the reply gave me 
 much relief, for it was as gentle and quiet as his demeanour was 
 the reverse. After a little while I learned from him that he was 
 an Hamburgh physician, losing his eyesight, condemned to go 
 to Marienbad, where he knew no one, to drink the waters for 
 six weeks, and not to attempt to read a word the whole time ; 
 he added,, that this prospect was so painful to him, that he 
 could hardly bear the idea. So the scrutinizing glance, and 
 the fidget being satisfactorily accounted for, I fell to pity my 
 friend, and made use of my own — not remarkably useful — 
 
60 THE RAILWAY. [Chap. III. 
 
 optics, to read the names of the stations, and the indications of 
 the hour on the roadside, which he had difficulty in discerning, 
 even when the letters and figures were of some size. Another 
 cause of annoyance to him was, that as long as the lady was 
 there he felt a delicacy about smoking (a strange sensation for 
 a German) ; and the prevention of this horrid practice, in those 
 habituated to it at certain hours, is torment. So he craved my 
 permission to smoke a little, with his head half out of the 
 window. Je suis bon enfant, besides, I commiserated his 
 situation, so I did not object, and he became comparatively 
 happy. Thus travelling, we arrived at Wittenburg, some- 
 what more than an hour behind time, and here the crowd 
 and confusion became excessive; for at this point the ways 
 to Berlin and Leipsig part — there is a division of trains — 
 an eating place, and an examination of baggage. I do not 
 recollect showing my passport here, and I think I arrived 
 at the Austrian frontier, about ten miles from Carlsbad, 
 without being asked for it. One eating room served for all 
 classes — about twenty round tables were set out — and how the 
 Kellners in this Babel could possibly distinguish one man from 
 another, and who ordered what, and what was to pay, passes 
 my comprehension, for the viands were not set out, but ordered 
 by each man according to his fancy. The variety was not very 
 great, and the fare not very choice ; but the German appetite, 
 
Chap. III.] THE RAILWAY. 6 1 
 
 once aroused, will not stick at a trifle, and they have a 
 contempt for forks, and, I may almost add, of life, in the 
 use they make of the knife, which would constantly prove 
 fatal, were it not for the singular dexterity with which they 
 wield that formidable weapon. How far they are capable of 
 swallowing it without danger, I never could exactly fathom, but 
 certain it is, that it somehow conveyed to their palates, in the 
 course of a few minutes, such a quantity of meat, vegetables, 
 and gravy, as would fairly rival a spoonbill ; and I saw that 
 the whole was ordered, served, and paid for, to the entire satis- 
 faction of all parties concerned. When the tumult and clangor 
 of arms had a little subsided, and the Berlin train was dis- 
 patched, I made an attempt myself, and there was still something 
 left. 
 
 How long we remained at this station I hardly recollect, but 
 it must have been nearly two hours before — bag and baggage 
 having been overhauled (they make a very slight search in a 
 foreigner's luggage) — the train was ready to proceed to Magde- 
 burgh. The mystery was shortly explained to me, of the 
 journey from Hamburgh to Leipzig — no great distance — 
 taking up thirteen hours and a half on paper, and fifteen 
 and a half in reality ! for, independent of the custom-house 
 search, we had now, after going a mile, to unload the whole 
 train, in order to pass the Elbe by means of a ferry, the rail- 
 
62 THE RAILWAY. [Chap. III. 
 
 way -bridge not being yet finished. I had an instructive lesson 
 before starting as to the difference between precept and example. 
 Having been walking about in various directions during this 
 long halt, I did not approach the train to get in again until 
 the bell was ringing for departure. There was only one first- 
 class compartment — that in which I had travelled ; and there 
 I saw in it my former friend and two other gents. All three 
 were sitting, not giving an occasional furtive puff of smoke as 
 before, but emitting volumes of this fragrant incense in all direc- 
 tions. Having left school and college now some years, I cannot 
 exactly recollect whether the ancients ever smoked — whether, 
 after the mursena, and various other delicacies celebrated by their 
 poets, and the Ccecuba servatum centum clavibus, these exqui- 
 sites of old ever sat out in their porticoes in their Baian or 
 Tusculan, villas and puffed a cloud; probably not, for, if they 
 had, they would certainly have deified the root. Perhaps 
 Bacche Pater vexere tigres — a iree translation of which might 
 run thus: " Father Baccy, how the tigers do twist and tor- 
 ment you!" — had a hidden meaning. One thing is, however, 
 obvious, — that the Chancellor of the Exchequer forbids such 
 penates in England. But to return; my stomach having 
 still some unpleasant marine recollections, this incense in- 
 censed me not a little, and I asked the superintendent in a 
 stern voice, whether smoking was permitted in first-class car- 
 

 Chap. III.] THE RAILWAY. 63 
 
 riages. He replied, at once, that it was not. And when I 
 pointed to these shameless offenders against law and order, he, 
 in the most deprecating tone, hegged my patience till we 
 crossed the Elbe, when he promised I should have a com- 
 partment to myself. He excused himself from interfering with 
 the new-comers, because, I thought he was going to say, they 
 were princes of the blood royal. Oh, dear no ! — the chairman 
 and vice-chairman of the railway company, who had signed the 
 regulations against smoking in first-class carriages. Leges sine 
 moribus vance, might, in truth, be said. So I had nothing left 
 for it, but to submit with the best grace I could, not daring to 
 enforce my right ; but, being at Wittenburg, I could not help 
 hoping that some Luther might hereafter arise, and wage suc- 
 cessful war against the sale of such abominable indulgences. 
 I don't quite know how I looked as I seated myself in the 
 defiled vehicle; but, if I may judge from the looks of my 
 platter-faced companions, which I occasionally perceived 
 athwart the smoky atmosphere, my countenance must have 
 betrayed my thoughts ; and, if truth must be told, at that 
 moment I was detesting the sinner, and more the sin. 
 
 The bridge over the Elbe, which is here divided by an island, is 
 a very large and ingenious work. The smaller stream is spanned 
 by arches of stone and brick ; the larger, by a straight line of 
 suspension, on the new principle — the higher line, or, so to 
 
64 THE RAILWAY. [Chap. III. 
 
 speak, the rail of the balusters above, sustaining the roadway 
 below. I think the estimated cost was about 50,000/. The un- 
 packing of a train on one bank of a river, thence transferring 
 the contents to a boat, — which boat is towed by a steamer round 
 an island to the other bank, where the process is renewed, — is an 
 operation which is easily conceived, and not agreeable to people 
 who are in a hurry, or who are apt to leave their things in 
 carriages ; but, so far as I was concerned, after our cold sum- 
 mer in England, I enjoyed the fine weather so much, that I 
 was not impatient, and I almost forgave my tormenters, in the 
 pleasure of having got rid of them, and exchanging their super- 
 fluous expirations for inspirations of fresh air. In crossing I 
 was very much edified by watching a fleet of barges going up the 
 Elbe, with their large and extremely picturesque sails, the 
 management of which is extremely simple; — all they have to 
 do, when they want to stop, is, to haul the peak of the long 
 light hitcher up to the mast, and the sail disappears ; loose the 
 haulyards, and you are again in full sail. They are of a pro- 
 digious height, I presume to catch the wind above the banks, 
 when they become higher than they are in this part of the world. 
 They were nice, sturdy, well-painted, full-loaded, well-to-do 
 looking barges ; they harmonized, too, with the colour of my 
 thoughts, and I remember them with pleasure. I saw no semi- 
 barbarous male head arising out of the after-cabin, such as one 
 
Chap. III.] THE RAILWAY. 05 
 
 does sometimes see in another country from the canal path, 
 accompanied not unfrequently by a female physiognomy of the 
 same stamp, and perhaps an amphibious urchin or two, with 
 matted locks, looking wildly, if not surlily, out upon the intruder, 
 as if they did not belong to the same species. I always feel 
 uncomfortable on a towing-path at an undue hour. 
 
 The whole of our transhipment was effected with quite as 
 much dispatch and success as could fairly be expected ; and, 
 after a while, we again started for Magdeburgh. Upon the 
 way I had the privilege of enjoying my own society in a car- 
 riage which did not seem to have been made use of for 
 pot-house purposes within the last twenty-four hours. As the 
 day was declining, and we had still some distance to go, I 
 looked at my watch, and then it became evident that the report I 
 had heard in Hamburgh was more correct than the information 
 in Hendschel's Telegraph, and that eleven or twelve o'clock at 
 night was a more probable hour for our arrival in Leipsig than 
 nine. The country through which the railway passes is ex- 
 ceedingly flat, diversified occasionally by slight sandy eminences 
 covered with firs. It was closely, and in many places well 
 cultivated, though the crops were not quite what we should call 
 luxurious. They were in a great variety of stages of ripeness 
 — upon the whole not so forward as the southern half of 
 England. Some were in flower, — I noticed one with a yellow 
 
 F 
 
OG THE RAILWAY. [Chap. III. 
 
 flower, with which I am not acquainted; but the most 
 striking agricultural feature, as one traverses the country, 
 is the enormous size of the farm-buildings, compared with 
 our own: they will not stack anything out of doors if they 
 can help it, and their sheep and cattle cannot support the 
 rigour of the winter unprotected. The roofs are almost uni- 
 versally of tile, and of a very high pent ; the farms, generally 
 speaking, not quite so large as ours. 
 
 On arriving at Magdeburgh, we did not exactly sack the 
 town, but it was politely insinuated to us, that our rails had 
 again come to an end, and that we must find our way to the 
 opposite suburb, where the Gothen and Leipsig station was to 
 be found. Somehow or other a sort of panic, like that of the 
 morning, again seized the passengers ; we knew we were very 
 late, and it was suggested that perhaps the train would be 
 gone. So, never reflecting that the baggage must be trans- 
 ported and reshipped, which would give ample time, a con- 
 tention arose for the possession of some half-dozen droskies 
 that were at hand, and which threatened to be serious, as 
 the supply was infinitely below the demand; however, after a 
 considerable display of brotherly love and self-denial, the car- 
 riages being loaded as full as ingenuity could devise, the mass 
 was transported in a feverish state to its destination. Those 
 who did not get carriages, having had time to recover their 
 
Chap. III.] THE RAILWAY. G7 
 
 senses, found that Providence had done much better for them 
 than they had attempted to do for themselves. At the terminus 
 we found truly that the train we ought to have gone by had 
 departed at its usual hour ; but there is always another ready 
 to forward the passengers to Leipsig, should they arrive late at 
 Magdeburgh; so we had plenty of time to cool ourselves after 
 our unnecessary fuss, before it was time to be reseated ; and, 
 eventually, we reached Leipsig station at eleven o'clock. 
 
 F 2 
 
08 LEIPSTG. [Chap. IV. 
 
 CHAPTEK IV. 
 
 LEIPSI6. 
 
 I don't know how they prevent the frauds here which are 
 said to be practised on our railways, and, in consequence 
 of which, especially on the Great Western, there is a con- 
 tinual cry of Stand and deliver ; or if they have more honest 
 travellers to deal with; hut they leave you in unchallenged 
 possession of your ticket. This I know, not alone from 
 my own having remained uncalled for; but because, finding it 
 accidentally in my pocket the following day, and being in 
 the neighbourhood of the terminus, thinking the ticket-taker 
 might suffer from his oversight, I presented it at the office, 
 and the clerk declined its acceptance. I have an aversion to 
 getting into a strange carriage in the dark, — and it was a dark 
 silent night when we arrived ; a drowsy man appeared, declar- 
 ing that, if I would give him my baggage-ticket, he would 
 take the effects to the Hotel de Baviere. I said to myself, 
 the Germans are honest and methodical, I like a walk, and 
 
Chap. IV.] LEIPSIG. 69 
 
 even in the dark have such confidence in my organ of locality, 
 that, though eleven years have elapsed since I last was here, 
 I think I shall find my way. Accordingly off I set, and in 
 a moment found myself outside the station, and unexpectedly 
 quite alone; the greater part of the passengers had heen set 
 down at other places on the road, and the few that remained 
 were more prudently busied in searching out their own effects. 
 After a while I saw a man, who directed me which way 
 to turn first, and I knew I should not be long in finding a 
 gate ; this I achieved, and entered the town. Here, however, 
 I was fairly at a loss ; the only living things seemed to be the 
 cats. Germans are early in their habits; half-past eleven 
 struck. Fortunately, just as I was hesitating where four ways 
 met, two individuals came out of a house, and walked rapidly 
 towards me. I inquired the way of one, who, perceiving that I 
 was a belated foreigner, insisted upon accompanying me, which 
 he did to the very door of the hotel ; now, considering he had 
 to go some distance, and entirely out of his way, this was very 
 obliging ; but it is not by any means the first occasion on which 
 I have experienced similar kindness. I recommended him to 
 come to London and see the Great Exhibition, promising that, 
 if I met him under similar circumstances, I would do as much 
 for him ; but he relieved me from my obligation, by informing me 
 that he had entertained the idea, but, having counted the cost, 
 
70 LEIPSIG. [Chap. IV. 
 
 he had resolved in the negative. I was very nearly offering to 
 treat him to an excursion ticket ; hut my enthusiastic gratitude 
 was beginning to ebb, and, on the whole, I also determined in 
 the negative, confining myself, when he took his leave, to 
 profuse expressions of gratitude suitable to the occasion. Left 
 alone in the street, I was about to ring with an awakening 
 pull, when, taking a glance at the outside of the house, it made 
 an unpleasant impression upon me. I had fancied I recollected 
 a very good hotel, and that some one, before I started, had told 
 me that he had found it such the year before ; so it suddenly 
 occurred to me, that perhaps it was not the right place, after 
 all, for its exterior had nothing to recommend it, having some 
 four or five stories in close succession one above another, 
 betokening low rooms and want of ventilation. So I strained 
 my eyes for a while in vain, attempting to read the inscription, 
 which I perceived in gilt letters at a certain height from the 
 ground, but at last getting it edgeways into the rays of a 
 corner lamp, I succeeded in deciphering " Hotel de Baviere." 
 Don't you like to be received by a good-looking house after a 
 long journey? I confess I have a weakness for external 
 forms ; and I have seen so many inns in my life, that I think 
 I have some right to lay down the law on the subject. The 
 eye, if only properly educated, will tell a great deal in a very 
 short time ; a good dish can be discerned at a glance, and many 
 
Chap. IV.] LEIPSIG. 71 
 
 other things of a less material description, though it is the 
 former that I am treating of just now. I think, in this case, 
 the unpleasant effect was increased hy the gates of the porte 
 cochere being shut, and hanging somewhat ruinously together. 
 Standing hesitating before an inn-door in a foreign town, at 
 twelve o'clock at night, is rather an odd position to be in, not to 
 say that it has a suspicious look ; so I set about finding a bell, and 
 was made sensible of the necessity of doing this without further 
 delay by hearing the distant sound of wheels, which suggested 
 the propriety of not losing the opportunity, which my walk had 
 afforded me, of showing my self-denial, by securing the best 
 vacant apartment for myself before the others arrived. The 
 first pull got no response ; the second was more vigorous, as 
 the sound of the advancing wheels became more distinct, and a 
 voice from within proclaimed that some one was putting on 
 something, and would comply with the summons immediately. 
 The gates were then unbarred, and I entered in state, with 
 greatcoat and stick, and half-a-dozen books. I informed the 
 gate-opener of the probable arrival of my chattels, to assure 
 him I was not entirely destitute of such appendages, and, also, 
 that others were probably on their way. In return for my 
 news, he informed me that he could receive me, and that the 
 Kellner would forthwith show me my room. This functionary, 
 accordingly, appeared, rubbing his eyes, evidently just out of 
 
72 LEIPSIG. [Chap. IV. 
 
 his first sleep, and proceeded to do bis errand. The first floor 
 gained, I made as though I would find my lodging here, but 
 he continued ascending, unmindful of my hint, — the second 
 floor was also passed in the same deliberate manner, — and I 
 began to feel the third flight not only fatiguing, but affronting, 
 and I remonstrated. " Honoured sir," was the reply, " the 
 house is almost full." So, as I have before observed, all hotels 
 in Germany are. At length one very small room opened its 
 arms for me, ou troisieme, as Hobson's choice, and my guide 
 quitted me. I felt strongly disposed to murmur, but could not 
 make out upon whom I could vent my spleen ; besides, I had 
 made a vow to be patient, and, after a gulp of the rising dissatis- 
 faction, I kept it. It was shortly destined to a higher trial. 
 The first success, however, as is generally the case, if I may be 
 permitted a moral reflection, paved the way for a second. I knew 
 the difficulty of obtaining anything to eat at such an hour; as, 
 however, my wants were few, I reckoned upon their satisfaction, 
 but without my host. The rattle of the carriage below gave a 
 little animation to the deathlike stillness of the night ; and I 
 remained up stairs, with a single candle, in a disconsolate 
 mood, speculating upon the chances of the whole of my 
 baggage coming to hand. Meanwhile, as I like, wherever 
 I am, to get a notion of the locale and disposition of 
 the space in which I am to pass the night, T commenced an 
 
Chap. IV.] LEIPSTG. 73 
 
 examination of the etage on which I stood. First came a 
 spacious landing, the walls of which were adorned hy sundry old 
 coloured prints, representations of staring princes, and fading 
 field-marshals highly decorated, — that led me to the staircase up 
 which I had mounted to my present altitude. Sounds very ex- 
 pressive of depth of slumber and weight of supper, in various 
 keys, proceeded through the large crevices of the ill-shutting 
 doors, and confirmed the truth of the Kellner's report. At 
 last my eye rested upon a curious little window, ahout six 
 inches square, over a door which led into a space which, if 
 it had not been inclosed, would have been the well of the 
 staircase. What I thought it was, it is unnecessary that I 
 should particularize, — but I had my opinion ; suffice it to say, 
 that I ventured to open the door, and there — hear it not, Ashley 
 and Slaney ! tell it not at the Board of Health ! — there I 
 beheld, in a space literally not five feet square, and with this little 
 window, which was closed, its only means of ventilation, the 
 Kellner of the landing, with his coat off, asleep on a truck-bed, 
 upon which there was not room to stretch at full length. 
 And so, by this said economy of space, got out of the staircase, 
 here lodged, one above the other, the fortunate waiters of the 
 establishment. My astonishment is, that one single night did 
 not effectually do for them all. I don't know whether the 
 Germans are long-lived, but I have often thought they must 
 
74 LEirSIG. [Chap. IV. 
 
 have peculiar lungs, to exist in the sort of atmosphere they 
 seem to delight in. The composite odours of the Speise Saal 
 are inconceivable to those who have not experienced them ; for, 
 unless an Englishman comes in by accident, and, regardless of 
 the deprecatory looks of the other guests, ruthlessly opens the 
 window to enable him to breathe a little fresh air, I don't think 
 this species of ventilation would be had recourse to from one 
 year's end to the other, and smoke and dinner fumes would 
 alternately obtain the mastery. To save my sleeper from 
 asphyxia, and have my conscience clear, I not only opened his 
 little staircase air-hole, but left his door half open. I then 
 descended to know my fate, and there saw that my effects had 
 safely come to hand, and that the only other comers were my 
 friends, the blind doctor and the railway king. The former, 
 poor man! was actually compelled to ascend still a fourth stair- 
 case, to find a gite; and I was in great hopes that the roof 
 would have been put in requisition to receive his grumpy- 
 ness ; but my kind wishes for his exaltation were disappointed, 
 — he had written beforehand, and had an excellent room on the 
 premier. Whilst the poor doctor was fumbling about up stairs, 
 I sat down with his majesty at a table, upon which was placed 
 one, not very considerable, cold chicken, the only remaining 
 article of food which the larder could produce. After having 
 eyed it in a sinister manner, he proceeded to put it upon his 
 
Chap. IV.] LEIPSIG. 75 
 
 plate, made a sort of grunting apology for his appetite, as, he 
 said, he had eaten nothing since hreakfast, and, in almost less 
 time than it takes to describe, the whole had disappeared down 
 his capacious throat. I won t say that some very few bones 
 did not remain upon his plate, to testify to what had once 
 beeu ; but such dispatch I never witnessed in my life, and I 
 stared with unfeigned astonishment. He was evidently a man 
 of the short school— deeds and not words ; for, after swallowing 
 with equal facility half a loaf of bread and a pint of claret, 
 he disappeared, giving orders to be called at five the following 
 morning : it was then half-past twelve. The doctor got some 
 bread and the never-failing compote; and there was set before 
 me, according to my request, some bread, butter, milk, hot- 
 water, sugar, and an egg. Stale bread in Germany is as 
 bad a thing as fresh is good ; milk is always boiled, and never 
 lasts sweet through the day ; hot-water boiled in a pipkin, with 
 the remains of a greasy bouillon, is not agreeable when mixed 
 with the aforesaid; butter is a very doubtful article here- 
 abouts. Now, all these articles fulfilled my least sanguine 
 anticipations ; and, as to the egg, it was not even necessary to 
 try it by the usual olfactory process, a light current of air setting 
 in that direction having wafted towards me the particulars of 
 its forward condition. My experienced eye had already de- 
 tected the state of things. A momentary needle-like prick of 
 
70 LEIPSIG. [Chap. IV. 
 
 irritation shot across me, but I submitted to my hard fate, 
 quietly got up, meekly took my candle, and, with an "auf 
 wiedersehen" to the doctor, ascended to rest. 
 
 Sleep is not my forte, either on a journey or anywhere else, at 
 the end of a Session ; and though up at five, and not in bed till 
 near one, it was long before I sunk into oblivion. How long 
 I remained so, I cannot tell; but the first dawn of conscious- 
 ness made me sensible that I was somewhere away from home, 
 and that a solemn and most devotion- stirring hymn, in strains 
 of celestial harmony, was stealing upon my ear. I was just suffi- 
 ciently myself to be aware that I was not quite awake, and so fear- 
 ful was I of breaking the charm which seemed to bind me, that I 
 made an indescribable effort to remain suspended between sleep- 
 ing and waking. I listened with intense delight to the beautiful 
 cadences as they died away, and again swelled forth in richest 
 volume, until at length they entirely ceased, and all was pro- 
 foundly still. I was yet dozing, my soul bathed in ethereal 
 colours, when, after a while, the strain again commenced. 
 Was it in the house ? — was it in the street ? — was it thus that 
 Sunday was ushered in where I was ? This time the dreamy 
 state could no longer be retained ; I rubbed my eyes, saw the 
 four walls of my little chamber, and became sensible that, though 
 admirably subdued, the music was much nearer to me than I had 
 imagined. The harmony was still low, plaintive, and suited to 
 
Chap. IV.] LEIPSTG. 77 
 
 the day; but, recollecting I was in Germany, I fancied I had heard 
 something of the sort before, and a terrible suspicion crossed 
 me, that my devotional feelings, so highly wrought by the first, 
 might be rudely flung to the earth by the second part of the per- 
 formance, the former being a prelude to something of a very 
 different character. I was not kept long in suspense ; the adagio 
 was quickly followed by an andante of Labitzky's last, suc- 
 ceeded at intervals by pot-pourri, polka, and galop. The music 
 proceeded, as it turned out, from a small, but admirable brass 
 band, some twelve or fourteen performers, stationed upon the 
 landing, giving what they called a serenade ; strangely mis- 
 named, for upon consulting my watch I was astonished to ob- 
 serve that it was not yet six o'clock. The object of this musical 
 treat was a captain of artillery, whom I afterwards saw — a nice, 
 smiling, good-humoured little fellow, about five feet high — so 
 small, I think he must have been attached to the Howitzers, 
 who was passing through with his family, and his old regiment 
 being stationed here, took this very matutinal method of wish- 
 ing him God speed. 
 
 Going to sleep again being out of the question, I got 
 up, and to the first demand of an enlightened and sanitary 
 Briton, I was informed, with an air of pride, that there were 
 baths in the house. This was only partially true in one sense, 
 and not at all in the other, as I soon discovered, for, on proceed- 
 
78 LEIPSIG. [Chap. IV. 
 
 ing to avail myself of this welcome announcement, I found 
 I had to go down an open yard in my slippers; a shower 
 had recently fallen, and wet slippers are not agreeable ; arrived 
 at the entrance, I found myself in the midst of a hazy atmo- 
 sphere, caused by certain stout nymphs occupied in wash- 
 ing. I was about to apologize for my dishabille, when a 
 closer inspection made me sensible that it was unnecessary, as 
 we were at least upon a par in that respect, so I passed on- 
 wards, praying for patience, feeling a strong desire to abuse 
 something or somebody for having trepanned me into this 
 elaborate discomfort, under the guise of a luxury. Fortunately 
 the seducer was not there. A rickety staircase brought me to 
 the object of my search, but even here I was not destined to 
 unalloyed bliss. I found alow room, with a very small amount 
 of the modest furniture indispensable in such places, with two 
 large copper tubs, lined with some white metal, not very bright, 
 and destitute of linen, and which looked anything but of agreeable 
 contact. I trode upon laths raised about two inches above the 
 real floor, where the waste water ran, but with such wide inter- 
 stices that it required great dexterity to prevent my already damp 
 slippers from being entirely submerged and lost. I endeavoured 
 to explain that I wished to have a bath, with the chill only just 
 taken off; but unfortunately the man had poured a large por- 
 tion of hot in, and there was no water pipe, or any means of 
 
 
Chap. IV.] LEIPSIG. 79 
 
 getting rid of it, except baling it out by hand. I faintly asked 
 for some hot linen, and was answered that there was no means 
 of heating it. So I cannot recommend to my friends, who 
 happen to be travelling this way, the Bade-Anstalt of the 
 Hotel de Baviere. 
 
 Altogether, the morning was not one in which I was destined 
 to indulge my fancies. I presumed it not likely that there 
 would be an English service, so I determined in my own mind 
 that I would go to the German Church ; accordingly, when I 
 descended to breakfast, after a toilette of some length, ren- 
 dered necessary by the bathing adventure, finding I was 
 right in my surmise, I inquired when the Lutheran service 
 began, and which church was recommended ; I was informed 
 that it was already too late, as eight o'clock was the hour 
 of Divine Service on the Sunday morning in every church 
 in Leipsig, and there was no second. So I could not 
 join myself to where two or three were gathered together, 
 though it was no willing forsaking, on my part, of the assem- 
 bling altogether, as the manner of some, we are told, was 
 formerly, — may be, is now. Left to my own resources, I took 
 up Dr. Yaughan's last volume of sermons, which any one 
 who desires to profit shall, I will venture to say, not read 
 without being amply repaid for so doing. He seems to me to 
 have gone deep and feelingly, and with a clear insight vouch- 
 
80 LEIPSIG. [Chap. IV. 
 
 safed, into the profoundest mysteries of our faith ; and, withal, 
 has the power of communicating his ideas in simple and com- 
 prehensible language. 
 
 The walk round the walls — or how shall I express it, for 
 walls there are none? — but the walks upon the demolished 
 fortifications of Leipsig, now a well-shaded pleasure ground 
 of l'Anglaise, are amongst the most pleasing of these places 
 of urban recreation (and there are many), with which I 
 am acquainted in Germany. I recollected it well, and re- 
 turned to it with unfeigned satisfaction, tempered, however, 
 with the feeling of sincere regret, that we have nothing 
 of the sort for our middling and poor folk in England. The 
 value of such a thing, for such a town, is not to be calcu- 
 lated; and the workman, with such a healthful advantage, 
 must, even in bad circumstances, find less temptation to repine 
 at the lot of his more fortunate neighbour, with his park and 
 pleasure-grounds. In some portion, besides, he is sure to find a 
 little stall or guinguette, with a sunny or shady seat, as the case 
 may be, offering some humble but grateful luxuries for his 
 enjoyment. What would I not give to see my own country's 
 children of toil so furnished ! That I had not contented 
 myself with wishing only for these things for them, sug- 
 gested a complacent reflection ; but when I saw the people of 
 Leipsig in their holiday attire, who have only a step to go 
 
Chap. IV.] LEIPSIG. 81 
 
 to find themselves in this little Elysium, and then trans- 
 ported myself back in thought, per mare per terras, and 
 saw the access to the Thames on both sides absolutely forbid- 
 den, and thought of the long walk that must in most instances 
 be taken to gain even such bare recreation as our parks afford, 
 the contrast was annoying. I cannot at this moment recollect 
 whether, in many foreign towns, not formerly fortresses, the 
 same attention has been paid to the wants and comfort of the 
 people. Hamburgh, Frankfort, Vienna, Leipsig, and some 
 others that I could name, owe these advantages to curtain and 
 bastion overthrown, and fosse converted to other purposes, and 
 embellished. This, the inhabitants of those places were for the 
 most part not slow to accomplish after the last war, having 
 tasted some of the sweets of a siege, more or less protracted, 
 in which the interests and wishes of themselves — the real 
 sufferers — were probably never for an instant even adverted to. 
 Lyons and St. Etienne, if I recollect right, are not so well off; 
 and Elberfeld and Barmen are, or at least ten years ago were, 
 still interspersed with gardens. But when one thinks that 
 there is not one town of any importance in England where 
 anything approaching the "Anlage" of Leipsig exists, and that 
 every day more and more of desirable suburban spots are 
 becoming riveted in the stern bonds of brick and iron, 
 it does strike one's mind most forcibly, that of all classes of 
 
 G 
 
82 LEIPSIG. [Chap. IV. 
 
 European peoples, the English workman is the worst off in 
 respect of attractive, or indeed of any space for recreation; and, 
 considering the air, loaded with soot and damp, not to mention 
 other impurities, in which he works, no one stands in such 
 extreme need of adventitious aid as himself. The aristocracy 
 and the middle class have hoth sinned against him ; the one 
 intent upon his gratifications, the other upon his gains, left 
 their weaker brother to shift for himself, and so he went to 
 the wall. 
 
 I have before said that I like finding my way about a 
 place myself, even though I have a guide. Now, the laquais 
 de place was not necessary for the walk I have been describing ; 
 but he was so for the post-office, and I took one for that pur- 
 pose, and also as a good souffre douleur upon whom to practise 
 my German. This man communicated to me a singular cir- 
 cumstance illustrative of the eventful lives of the clergy one 
 occasionally meets with doing duty in partibus. In answer 
 to my inquiry, whether there was not sometimes an English 
 service at Leipsig, he informed me that latterly there had not 
 been any, though formerly an excellent Geistliche had inhabited 
 the town, and for a length of time performed the sacred office in 
 his own house, where also he had received some pupils. On the 
 Sunday he was wont to employ my informant to gather together 
 the outcasts of Israel, who might be found in the various 
 
Chap. IV.] LEIPSIG. 83 
 
 hostelries of the town, and who could be induced to accept such 
 spiritual food as he had to offer for an optional remuneration. 
 All went on smoothly for some time, but, he added, " at length 
 either so few came, or remained on the first day of the week, that 
 for that or for some other cause, he was obliged to give it up.' 
 He said this latter sentence in so hesitating a manner, that I 
 suspected he was not telling me the truth, and a very little 
 questioning elicited the following story as the real cause of the 
 
 cessation of the Rev. Mr. 's duties at Leipsig. One day 
 
 my guide was casting his net as usual, to catch as many fishes 
 as he could, with which to make loaves for his employer, when, 
 upon putting the usual question to a guest at the Hotel de 
 Baviere, whether he desired to attend service, he was met 
 by an inquiry as to the name of the individual who pro- 
 posed to perform it. That interrogatory being satisfied, the 
 stranger seemed to take an unusual interest in the person 
 in question, and begged to have a description of his ap- 
 pearance, age, &c, and, finally, in an off-hand manner, in- 
 quired the way to the police station. My guide being a man 
 of reflection, and having a sneaking kindness for his reverend 
 friend, bethought him that there was something a little unusual 
 in the proceedings of this traveller, and so betook himself to the 
 lodgings which were at the moment being converted into a tem- 
 porary tabernacle. There he informed the owner of what had 
 
 G 2 
 
84 LEIPSIG. [Chap. IY. 
 
 just passed, and gave the name of the mysterious stranger 
 •which he had culled from the Livre d'Etrangers. The parson 
 smiled — a smile indicative of confidence in his own resources ; 
 he did not hurry himself; he knew that legal delays, proverbial 
 everywhere, are not less real in Saxony than elsewhere. A 
 slight indisposition prevented the usual morning service. The 
 railway left at a quarter to three, and when the authorities 
 arrived at five o'clock, like the baseless fabric of a vision, 
 not even a wreck was left behind. A too great facility of ex- 
 pending other people's money without a sufficient attention to 
 the law of restitution, was supposed to have been the cause of 
 this singular and abrupt termination to the English service, 
 and the transference of this gentleman's labours elsewhere. But, 
 alas ! — must it be confessed? — the ministerial representatives of 
 our church, on the Continent, have not hitherto been very well 
 calculated to make it shine in the eyes of those amongst whom 
 they dwelt. Within my own knowledge one was in a similar 
 predicament to the above, another was half mad, a third had 
 eloped with two ladies, and a fourth had collected a subscrip- 
 tion, and wheri the auditors appeared, there was nothing to 
 audit. In another case two rivals claimed exclusive minis- 
 tration in the same locality, had each a flourishing party, 
 and mutually excommunicated each other and flocks; while 
 the last in the catalogue set congregation and all authority, 
 
Chap. IV.] LEIPS1G. 85 
 
 native as well as foreign, at complete defiance ; and, for fear this 
 should not be sufficiently known, issued numerous pamphlets 
 upon the subject of his rights and wrongs. I deeply regret it; 
 I wish some remedy could be applied, though I have none to 
 suggest, for the comfort of finding the Church service in one's 
 own tongue, in foreign lands, is always great, but it is un- 
 speakably so when one happens to be alone. The moral I 
 draw from this state of affairs is, not to make too nice inquiries, 
 when one finds a service, as to who or why, but simply to profit 
 by the occasion, and hope for the best. 
 
 The specimen I had had of the supper, breakfast, and bath at 
 the hotel, my nerves being still somewhat under marine in- 
 fluence, made me abstain from any further attempt upon the pro- 
 visions of the hotel, which I quitted soon after three, on foot, and 
 made my way to the Hof Kailway station : certainly if great civi- 
 lity and cheapness could compensate for certain other deficiencies, 
 to which I have more or less alluded, the Hotel de Baviere 
 would stand very high. If I recollect right, the charge for 
 lodging, such board as I had had, service, and conveyance of lug- 
 gage in an excellent carriage, which would also have conveyed 
 my person, had I wished it, both from one station and to the 
 other, amounted to no more than 65., and I was bowed out of 
 the house with as much ceremony and thanks, as if I had been 
 travelling on the Dover Eoad with four horses, having passed 
 
86 LEIPSIG. [Chap. IV. 
 
 the night at Canterbury, and prohably paid ten times that sum. 
 A very nice buffet at the station supplied my moderate wants, 
 and I was soon on my way to Zwickau, where railway transit 
 in the direction of Carlsbad ceases. 
 
Chap. V.] ZWICKAU. 37 
 
 CHAPTEK V. 
 
 ZWICKAU, AND THE JOURNEY. 
 
 The state of the weather kept me in some alarm; it was 
 now the evening of the 27th, three or four thunder showers 
 had fallen during the day, sunset was approaching, on the morrow 
 was the full moon with a total eclipse, more than half our 
 harvest was still to he gathered in, and I have from obser- 
 vation a strong persuasion that the weather immediately follow- 
 ing a visible eclipse will be the pattern for a great length of 
 time. When the train arrived at the Zwickau terminus, a 
 very heavy cloud seemed to be approaching from the west, 
 lurid not only with the flashes of fire which it bore in its own 
 bosom, but with the tinges of the sun now verging toward the 
 horizon. 
 
 The station is above the town, and distant some three- 
 quarters of a mile; the view picturesque and pretty: spires, 
 towers, high gables, and quaint-looking edifices abound; 
 
88 ZWICKAU. [Chap. V. 
 
 it is partially surrounded by an old embattled wall, and 
 it sits in the midst of orchards, and gardens, and verdant 
 meadows, watered by pellucid streams. I inquired the name of 
 the best hotel, and was informed it was the Grline Tanne, a 
 sign I had never heard of before, and was much puzzled to trans- 
 late ; but eventually I discovered that it was the Silver Fir — a 
 designation highly suited to the place — situated as it is in the 
 outskirts of the Erzegebirge, which abound in that species of 
 tree. A wooden label, dangling from the box of a caleche, an- 
 nounced its belonging to the aforesaid inn, and after one glance 
 at the heavens, and another at the intermediate space between 
 station and town, which displayed a nice-looking devious path at 
 the bottom of the hill, I decided, as I generally do, for the risk, 
 when walking from the train to a new place is in question. 
 Accordingly, I placed my effects in the hands of the kutcher, 
 and recommended them to his special protection. Now this 
 kutcher was the very impersonation of the old, slow, phlegmatic, 
 inexorable Saxon postboy — a wight of few words — who took 
 my baggage, counted the parcels, pointed with one thumb to 
 the darkening skies, then with his head to the inside of his 
 vehicle, and seeing I did not take the hint, shrugged his 
 shoulders contemptuously, climbed leisurely into his seat, rolled 
 the cigar back into the centre of his mouth, from the corner 
 into which it had been pushed by the usual organ of speech, 
 
Chap. V.] ZWICKAU. 89 
 
 cracked his whip, which neither had, nor was meant to have, 
 the smallest effect upon his team, and departed. I descended 
 the hill also, a little out of humour with Providence for making 
 me fidgety about the storm, when I wished to enjoy a walk 
 and a soothing view at my ease ; I marked how the passengers 
 going before me missed the path, which I felt sure, though it 
 seemed to be roundabout, was the real pleasant way to the 
 little town, and then fell to thinking onwards to my journey the 
 next day. These thoughts took a rule of three shape, doubt- 
 less suggested by the sight of the individual I have just 
 described, and I said to myself, "If the difference between 
 the speed of an English and a Saxon railway is so much, what 
 accumulation of Saxon postboys will make one English 
 locomotive?" I tried to remember the distance between the 
 earth and the sun, which was the largest number I could recol- 
 lect, until the difference between a spoonful of mother tincture 
 and a homoeopathic globule occurred to me, and that, I have 
 no doubt, would give the product required. A very large and 
 ominous drop, which at this moment fell upon the back of my 
 hand and broke into sparkling fractions, warned me that reveries 
 were not always safe, and I commenced in good earnest seeking 
 for some breach in the old dilapidated walls, where I could 
 make my untriumphal entry. I made up my mind to do all in 
 my power to disappoint the kutcher, who, I felt sure, would be 
 
90 ZWICKAU. [Chap. V. 
 
 as much delighted as it was in his nature to be, if he could see 
 me arrive perfectly drenched. In this, fate was kind, for the 
 heavier part of the storm gave me sufficient respite to enable 
 me to pass rapidly by the old church, through a few antiquated- 
 looking streets, and arrive unharmed at the inn. 
 
 If the boy was phlegmatic, not so was mine hostess of the 
 Silver Fir ; she was of ample dimensions, of a tender disposi- 
 tion, and gave me a reception which would have dried a 
 thousand showers ; patted me on the back, anticipated all my 
 wishes, presented me in form to the Ober Kellner, who was 
 about to become her son-in-law, and in five minutes I felt as if 
 I was one of the family. She loved the English, so of course 
 she loved me ; now all this is, in some countries, the preface 
 to deliberate extortion ; but such was not the case upon this occa- 
 sion, for the charge was even less than at the Hotel de Baviere, 
 and the board and lodging were as good as the other was in- 
 different; indeed, if I exclude the drawbacks which are in- 
 separable from a German inn, the occasional odours of the kitchen 
 and back-yard, from which my own apartment here was almost 
 exempt, I have rarely been better accommodated. I was descend- 
 ing to the Speise Saal, when the stout lady inquired if I wished 
 for a Gelegenheit to Carlsbad. Upon explanation, it seemed that 
 this meant, Do you like to go shares in a carriage with some one 
 else ? She assured me there was a charming couple who had been 
 
Chap. V.] ZWICKAU. 91 
 
 waiting a day for such a thing, and somewhat curious to know 
 to whom she destined me, I requested her to allow me to take 
 a physical view of the offer in question before I came to a deci- 
 sion. Thereupon she pointed out to me a crusty -looking old 
 Beamter, with a faded beauty at his side, and was proceeding 
 with her wonted dispatch furtively to show me their luggage, 
 and how small it was, when, drawing myself up, I gave her to 
 understand, in a stately and dignified tone, that it was my in- 
 tention to engage the couper of His Imperial Royal Majesty's 
 Eilwagen entirely to myself. It starts at nine, said I, on the 
 arrival of the early train from Leipsig, and that will be my con- 
 veyance. She mildly informed that that might have been my 
 conveyance ten days before, but could not be so now, seeing 
 that to-day was the 2?th, and that on the 15th both train and 
 diligence had ceased to run. At first I was almost disposed 
 to cast an unworthy suspicion on my most disinterested hostess, 
 but I should have been quite wrong. This arrangement, which I 
 had heard of, and which was made purposely for the accommo- 
 dation of the kurgaste in Bohemia, absolutely terminated on the 
 day mentioned, when the tide was flowing at its fullest, because 
 in former times that was considered the period after which it 
 would be inexpedient for water drinkers to commence their cure. 
 German ideas, truly, do not keep pace with our notions 
 of progress. Which of the two countries derives the greatest 
 
92 ZWICKAU. [Chap. V. 
 
 amount of general comfort and happiness from their different 
 modes of carrying on life, is a matter of opinion, but not 
 altogether quite clear to me. So, not being able to have my 
 own way, and having eschewed the proffered Gelegenheit, I 
 requested to be furnished with as light a carriage as could be 
 found, with the proviso that it. should be sufficiently roomy to 
 admit of my effects not being placed in that odd-looking wicker- 
 basket, which is an essential part of the German Lohns wagen, 
 and which, as it is upon the hinder bed of the carriage, and not 
 on springs, was probably invented for the good of trade, to 
 destroy everything confided to its fatal embrace. The horses 
 were to be of the best, and to bring me to my destination, 
 eleven German, or some fifty miles English, very hilly, in 
 eleven hours. The valley of the Molde was to be ascended, 
 and the ridge over-passed which separates it from that of the 
 Eger. Twelve thalers, and one additional for Trinkgeld, was 
 the price to be paid for this journey. 
 
 These important preliminaries being settled, I proceeded to 
 my repast in the Speise Saal. The storm had spent itself, 
 and the last rays of the setting sun exhibited a vivid rain- 
 bow — the most perplexing sign of future weather to the 
 weather-wise ; it has been celebrated in contradictory distiches, 
 giving hopes and fears to all. I had just sat down, 
 when a party of five — three women and two men — entered, 
 
Chap. V.] ZWICKAU. 93 
 
 and took their reserved places with evident satisfaction. An 
 elaborate supper was served, and shortly a large dish appeared, 
 which produced the liveliest sensations of pleasure. It was 
 filled with gigantic craw-fish, for which the neigbourhood is 
 celebrated, and to partake of which this party had left Leipsig 
 for their Sunday out-ing. They did justice to it; for the 
 vocal sounds of approbation were immediately hushed, and 
 gave place to an alternation of crackling and sucking, incident 
 to such enjoyments, until nothing but empty shells, dis- 
 jectaque membra, was left to tell the red tale of carnage that 
 had taken place. I don't thiuk this most anti-sanitary repast 
 disagreed in the slightest degree with any of the party; for 
 they sank into grim repose in the rooms on either side mine, 
 without a sign, and, though I was pretty early, they were off 
 again for Leipsig before me. 
 
 The long looked-for 28th dawned gray and fresh, after the 
 heavy showers of the previous day ; many clouds were about, 
 but not either of a very dark or cumulous character ; so that, 
 when I stepped out of the arched gateway, my spirits rose at the 
 prospect of a drive and walk over a highland country, in fine 
 weather, with a raree-show towards the conclusion of it. This 
 buoyant feeling was not, however, altogether unalloyed ; having 
 a misgiving that my acquaintance of yesterday would be the 
 gentleman selected to have the honour of conducting the 
 
94 ZWICKAU. [Chap. V. 
 
 Gnadige Graf; for to that dignity the order of a carriage for 
 myself had promoted me. 
 
 I was here witness to a transaction which shows that there 
 are more ways than one of calculating. On a table I perceived 
 my hostess, fat, fair, and forty, busily employed in turning over 
 and minutely examining a quantity of party-coloured wooden 
 knobs, about the size of marbles half flattened. At first, I 
 thought she was playing a new patience ; but, upon inquiry, I 
 discovered that it was the method of keeping accounts between 
 the Ober Kellner and the landlady. These counters belong 
 to the gentleman, and different colours represent different 
 values. Everything that he receives from the storeroom, cellar, 
 or kitchen, he pays for in this coin, and is obliged to produce 
 the sums which these counters represent the following morning. 
 If he chooses to give credit imprudently, wo betide him ; the 
 loss will inevitably fall upon him. The situation of the Ober 
 Kellner throughout Germany is one of great trust ; for it is, 
 of course, obvious that, notwithstanding this apparent security 
 to the landlord, a good intelligence between the cook who 
 delivers, and the Ober Kellner who receives, would soon di- 
 minish the profits of the host and enrich the delinquents. The 
 good ones are well known and eagerly sought after, have a 
 regular status, and are treated with considerable respect by all 
 parties. They are upon an intimate footing with all the fre- 
 
Chap. V.] ZWICKAU. 95 
 
 quenters of the house, with whom they daily exchange all the 
 gossip of the neighbourhood. They are of respectable families, 
 and usually discharge their trust with great fidelity. 
 
 The clock struck six, and the carriage was declared to be 
 ready. I was very sorry not to have time to make acquaint- 
 ance with the old church, to which the memorials of Luther, 
 and the appearance of the exterior, equally invited me ; but a 
 German sexton won't be disturbed at undue hours, and I had 
 a long journey before me. 
 
 There is also here one of the three houses of correction which 
 appertain to Saxony, and which, if it is as singular in its inte- 
 rior arrangements as it is in its exterior, must be worth a visit. 
 It has the loftiest and steepest gable conceivable. I was in- 
 formed that the dormitories were in the highest part of the 
 roof, and, during the night, the communication between them 
 and the rest of the building being cut off, by the removal of 
 the ladder of access, all chance of escape is taken away. There 
 is, besides, a quaint old house, an inn, called the Golden 
 Anchor, with a projecting window at each extreme angle, 
 from one of which it is certain that Luther preached to vast 
 numbers of his countrymen; and it is said Melancthon took 
 up his parable at the other, I presume when his more sten- 
 torian companion was tired, as the windows are almost too 
 near for simultaneous action. In my own mind, however, 
 
96 ZWICKAU. [Chap. V. 
 
 unfortunately, there is so close a connection between hotel 
 windows and hustings, that I never see anything of this sort 
 without that indescribable sensation which is only perfectly 
 understood by electioneering candidates of moderate nerves 
 and doubtful fluency. 
 
 As I have said before, the clock struck six, and the car- 
 riage was declared to be ready. I was accompanied to it 
 by all the household, and then perceived that, sure enough, 
 my presentiment was realized. There stood Josef, accoutred 
 for the journey, looking, if possible, more the image of 
 slowness and obstinacy than before. The sight had a dele- 
 terious effect upon my nerves, which was further increased 
 by my infatuation in attempting to mend matters, by address- 
 ing him in a strain which was meant to be patronizing and 
 jocular, and saying, as we drove out of the court-yard, "Nun 
 Schwager, fahren wir geschwind nicht wahr?" Upon which 
 he turned upon me with a " Wie," (the pleasantry having pene- 
 trated about as far into his hide, as Priam's spear did into the 
 shield of Neoptolemus,) accompanied by a look of indignation 
 and contempt, which seemed to me to convey, " How can you 
 be such an idiot as make such a speech?" And forthwith, 
 to demonstrate practically how much he appreciated my con- 
 descension, he commenced at a slow and deliberate walk, to 
 give me the benefit of every inequality in the Zwickau pave- 
 
Chap. V.] ZWICKAU. 97 
 
 ment, which is so very uneven that I fancied myself once again 
 in Oxford Street or the Strand. I mentally tutored my rising 
 indignation by repeating, " He that is slow to anger is better 
 than the mighty, and he that ruleth his spirit, than he that 
 taketh a city ;" and when it was, as in this instance, a case of 
 what cant be cured must be endured, much force was given 
 to the moral. We continued this brilliant pace until we reached 
 the first toll-bar, a short distance from the town, where the 
 " Mauth" being duly paid, the important operation of lighting 
 the first cigar commenced. Alas ! the old pipe, which hung so 
 gracefully from the mouth of the Sch wager in days of yore, is 
 passing towards the things that were ; the all-pervading cigar 
 is usurping its place even here, and levelling all distinctions. 
 The meerschaum-makers, however, are not altogether thrown 
 out of employ; for they have inventions in the nature of 
 mouthpieces of infinite variety in colour, length, and shape, 
 and into which the cigar is inserted, and smoked at a greater 
 or less distance from the mouth, according to the fancy of 
 the individual; many of them are so contrived as to give 
 the wearer a most comical appearance, the cigar rising at an 
 acute angle from the tube towards the face, and the lighted 
 end sending forth its curling smoke into the nose of the operator : 
 that, however, may be, probably is, an additional recommen- 
 dation. We say, " enough is as good as a feast;" that is not so 
 
 H 
 
98 ZWICKAU. [Chap. V. 
 
 with a German. I doubt whether any quantity of smoking would 
 be too much for him ; and a patented invention, which would 
 enable the possessor to continue smoking whilst asleep through 
 the night, would, I am convinced, make a man's fortune. What 
 their stomachs can be composed of, it is not easy to conceive. I 
 have spoken to many, who declared to me, that, as long as they 
 could recollect anything, they had smoked, and some to a great 
 extent, without suffering from it. My driver on this day, during 
 the somewhat more than eleven hours that we were on the road, 
 never discontinued for a moment ; and, if the villanous weeds 
 which he consumed had been all put down in a line, they must 
 have reached fully half the entire distance. These cigars are 
 certainly not costly ; but as all he was to have for his day's 
 work of fifty miles, or thereabouts, was a thaler, three shillings 
 English, with no certainty of a back fare, for which he might 
 have to wait a day or two, this habit must make a considerable 
 inroad into the yearly revenue of such a man. 
 
 I was not a little amused, after ten years' absence, to see my 
 old friend, the German toll-bar, in its zebra state, as unsophis- 
 ticated as ever, with that ingenious and complicated invention, 
 a stone or two taken off the road and placed in the wooden 
 cavity at the short end of the bar, to ensure its proper elevation 
 at the proper time, looking like a monster fishing-rod when up, 
 and a neat leaping-bar when down. The number of accidents 
 
Chap. V.] ZWTCKAU. 99 
 
 that would have happened in our island before this time, from 
 horses rushing through, before the leisurely, jerking, clicking 
 ascent of the pole had been completed, and the danger always 
 arising from the inequality of head-room after the evolution had 
 been performed, are not to be told, or the number of indignant 
 letters to the Times which would have ensued, and swept the 
 intruder from our path ; but the censorship and the habits of a 
 people accustomed to the swaddling-clothes of a bureaucratic 
 government bid defiance alike to the inroads of time and the in- 
 novations of inventive genius ; and so, until the dark and one- 
 coloured iron rail shall fairly have supplanted its rival, the toll- 
 bar will remain a monument of the past: then, however, we shall 
 cease to be aware from the usual indications, when we pass from 
 the territories of one sovereign into those of another. Either on 
 account of my preserving a dignified silence for some time, and 
 abstaining from all observations as to the pace we were going, 
 or from the genial influence of the narcotic, the crust of my 
 conductor began, after awhile, to soften a little ; an amble suc- 
 ceeded to a walk, and then a trot over favourable ground ; then 
 he became communicative upon the history of his mistress and 
 her establishment, and the nature of the country through 
 which we were passing, which is very pretty, and rich in coal, 
 lead, cobalt, and other mineral productions, and is the locality 
 where coke is made in great quantities for the north German 
 
 H 2 
 
100 ZWICKAU. [Chap. V. 
 
 railroads. There are pretty valleys, picturesque chateaux, vil- 
 lages, churches, small towns, &c. ; for the Erzgehirge have 
 been famous in story, in legend, and in mineral enterprise from 
 time immemorial. Indeed, one spot, celebrated of old for its 
 silver, since almost entirely exhausted — Joachim's Thai — gave 
 its name to the coin of the largest circulation in the world 
 — the thaler or dollar. The roads had been well watered by 
 the showers of the previous day, the air was fresh and deli- 
 cious, all fragrant with the odours of the wild thyme and pine : 
 as it swept gently over the higher portions of the range 
 I was ascending, it was almost as unlike Dr. Eeid's parliament- 
 ary infusion as the German postboy to the English locomotive. 
 I felt like Alp on the shore of the isthmus, and my spirits 
 rose as I mounted upwards ; I enjoyed my existence thoroughly, 
 like an ephemeride, for I had no desire to eat. I watched the 
 fleecy clouds as they floated over the sun, and speculated upon 
 my chances of a good eclipse, and, during the several halts for 
 refreshment of self and horses, made by my conductor, I strode 
 away over the hills by tangled copse and heathy upland, until 
 at length the snail overtook me again returning to the road from 
 some accidental digression. I found a party in the Speise Saal at 
 Eibenstoch, taking a much more material view of the subject; 
 they told me, in the intervals of discussing the inevitable 
 Rindfleish and Kartoffle, that they had just left Carlsbad, 
 
Chap. V.] ZWICKAU. 101 
 
 — that, though there were still a great many people there, I 
 should have no difficulty in finding a lodging, as the early 
 comers were now departing ; hut they inveighed bitterly against 
 the rapacity of the inhabitants, bid me beware, and recom- 
 mended the Morgenstern — a second-rate hotel. . What part of 
 the country they belonged to I did not make out, but I was 
 afterwards curious to know; because, except at Prague, I 
 should not have thought it possible to live for less than one 
 does at Carlsbad. 
 
 From Wildenthal the ascent to the summit of the pass is 
 very gentle, and thence you descend the whole way to Carlsbad. 
 The Austrian custom-house made no examination of my goods ; 
 the porters took a trunk down and put it up, and asked for a 
 Trinkgeld for their trouble. The tongue of my Saxon driver 
 began now to untie itself, and he became quite eloquent in 
 jeering his Austrian Koman Catholic neighbours. He de- 
 clared that the Government and the priests had ordered all 
 the people to abstain from their usual avocations, and to pray 
 that the world might not be destroyed on account of the 
 eclipse ; he also called my attention to what he said was a fact, 
 that, since we had entered Bohemia, we had met neither car- 
 riages nor carts. When I ventured to observe that we had, not 
 long before, met a diligence and a malle poste, he seemed 
 confused for a moment, but at length satisfied himself with 
 
102 ZWICKAU. [Chap. V. 
 
 the assurance, that they might have been permitted to set 
 out very early in the morning, and would be out of the 
 kingdom before the eclipse took place. That a fraud was 
 attempted on the peasants, in a parish very near Carlsbad, by 
 certain priests, I know from most unimpeachable testimony; 
 but I am not aware that the Government had any share in the 
 proceeding. They said it was revealed to them, that the Almighty 
 had determined to destroy the world, and that, although the 
 Blessed Virgin had interceded, her mediation had not then 
 been accepted, because the people had countenanced liberal 
 opinions, and had not been obedient to the Emperor, — that, on 
 the 28th, a great sign would appear on the sun, — and that, unless 
 they abstained from work and came to church, and promised 
 to do better, the light of the sun would certainly be extin- 
 guished. This the peasants made known to a very energetic 
 proprietor, io the parish, who employs many hands in various 
 ways, as an excuse for their not appearing at work on the 28th. 
 His indignation knew no bounds, and seizing his hat in one 
 hand, and cap in another, he placed them both in the line of 
 sight, and asked them if they could see both ? Upon their 
 replying in the negative, he added, " Suppose the moon should 
 come between the earth and the sun, could you see both ? " 
 " No," said they. " Well, my friends, that is all that will 
 happen on Monday." Accordingly, they returned quietly to 
 
Chap. V.] ZWICKAU. 103 
 
 their work with him as usual ; and, of course, as the neces- 
 sary consequence of all such pious frauds, the blame was 
 laid upon the religion, and not on the system : thus faith 
 is shaken, and the very foundations of order and morality 
 sapped. A curious circumstance, of somewhat similar descrip- 
 tion, happened about the same time not far from the same 
 place. It appears that, amongst other means of raising a 
 revenue, the Eomish ecclesiastics were in the habit of ringing 
 the parish bells when a thunder-storm was approaching, in 
 order to avert the threatened danger; and a certain fee was 
 taken from each parishioner for the advantage of this spiritual 
 insurance. This custom, during the short visit of liberal 
 ideas in 1848, was forbidden, and still remains so; how- 
 ever, this year it has reappeared, together with many other less 
 harmless practices which at that period either disappeared or 
 were suppressed : and, as the present year has been particu- 
 larly fertile in electric accumulation, the bells were again 
 put in request, arid a demand for the usual fee was made. 
 By some it was submitted to ; but one man of some influence 
 refused altogether to pay for that which he very truly 
 averred was not legal. The demanders, however, thought 
 themselves strong enough to succeed, and they therefore cited 
 him to appear before the local magistrate, who decided against 
 him ; not, as he said, that the claim was strictly legal, but 
 
104 ZWICKAU. [Chap. V. 
 
 because the priests must live somehow, and he thought this 
 an unobjectionable method of procuring an income. The 
 Protestant Saxons have, probably ever since the days of John 
 the Steadfast, and Ferdinand the Kegent, derided the Bohe- 
 mians as a priest-ridden people — just as my driver did on the 
 28th of July, 1851. And the Bohemians, in their turn, have 
 been taught, and believe with much sincerity, that the Saxons 
 have no religion at all. My friend on the box had no small 
 opinion of himself, and a corresponding estimate of his neigh- 
 bours, which he was at no pains to conceal. How far he may 
 be taken as an organ of the opinion of his class, I am unable 
 accurately to decide ; but he had somewhat the air of a pot- 
 house oracle. 
 
 We stopped at Neudeek, a picturesque little old town, 
 ten miles from Carlsbad, our last halt; and there, at three 
 o'clock, I was supplied with some pieces of smoked glass. It 
 was very fine and warm ; and I had my luncheon set out on a 
 table under the porte cocker e, overgrown with vines, that I 
 might see the first symptoms of the shadowy contact. I was 
 very soon gratified, for though not entirely clear, it was 
 not more overcast than to enable indifferent sight to have 
 a more enduring view of this grand fulfilment of our Creator's 
 decree, that " the great lights in the firmament of the heavens 
 should be for signs, and for seasons, and for days, and for 
 
Chap. V.] ZWICKAU. 105 
 
 years." And I could not help again thinking, that these 
 (to the uninitiated) wonderful examples of the exactness of 
 the astronomical calculations, evidently known to the earlier 
 inhabitants of our globe, almost certainly to the Phoeni- 
 cians and the Egyptians, then lost, now again found, and 
 shining forth year by year more and more brightly, are indica- 
 tions, added to multitudes of others, which may be seen in the 
 present state of the world, that the day of its existence is upon 
 the wane, and the period of its duration approaching ; six 
 thousand years of turmoil and struggle, and then, maybe, one 
 thousand years of rest. " Six days shalt thou labour, and do 
 all that thou hast to do, but the seventh is the Sabbath of the 
 Lord thy God." " A thousand years are with the Lord but as 
 a day." " There remaineth, therefore, a rest to the people of 
 God." 
 
 I set forth again when about half the sun's disc was obscured, 
 and stopped every five minutes to watch the progress of the 
 event, and the varying lights upon the landscape. 
 
 " Now fades the glimmering landscape on the sight, 
 And all the air a solemn stillness holds, 
 Save where the beetle wheels his droning flight, 
 And drowsy tinklings lull the distant folds." 
 
 The shadows were not quite so sombre as Gray's matchless 
 poetry has painted them; but they seemed to have a very 
 sobering effect upon the whole creation : men stood still and 
 
106 ZWICKAU. [Chap. V. 
 
 watched ; the landscape did fade, though it did not vanish ; 
 the animals evidently felt an unwonted magnetism, remaining 
 in uneasy suspense, and a chilly feeling stole over the genial 
 warmth of the afternoon. The ring round the edge of the 
 moon seemed complete in about fifty minutes, and I thought 
 the sun reappeared again in its entirety in a shorter time. I 
 made Josef apply the glass to his eye assiduously, and he 
 gave grunts of approbation from time to time ; but I am not 
 altogether convinced that he made out what it was : at all 
 events, as his poor ignorant, benighted neighbours, the Bohe- 
 mians, saw a mystery in it, he was quite determined to treat it 
 as an everyday occurrence. I felt rather relieved when it was 
 all quite over, and I found myself descending to the Eger, with 
 the embouchure of the Temple Valley in view. 
 
 The fifty miles, with a pair of horses, were accomplished in 
 about eleven hours, on a fine day without dust, and we trotted 
 merrily into Carlsbad at half-past five, amongst a large popula- 
 tion of sober walkers, all looking intent upon their several 
 symptoms. I drove up to the door of the Schild, having made up 
 my mind that I would lodge there if possible, as in 1840 it was 
 the best house, and I guessed must have changed proprietors 
 for the better since that epoch, the last time I had the pleasure 
 of seeing it. In this, however, I was mistaken. It was quite 
 full; but they gave me a room in another hotel, called 
 
Chap. V.] ZWICKAU. 107 
 
 the Paradies, which belongs to the same people, though 
 at some distance. Unwary strangers, who don't know this, 
 sometimes fly for relief from one to the other, because they 
 have an entirely separate staff; the husband being stationed 
 at the latter, whilst the Frau is the acting director of the 
 former, and predominant in both. I had on former occa- 
 sions lived at The Prince of Prussia, which I did not 
 like, and had had no experience of private lodgings, of 
 which, however, I can now speak with perfect connaissance de 
 cause, the behaviour of mine hosts of the above united con- 
 cern having quickly put me to flight from their quarters. 
 However, I accepted the proffered room at the Paradies for 
 the night, found my old doctor, Dr. Meisner, bought a drink- 
 ing cup, and took leave of my travelling companion Josef, 
 whom I must not dismiss without saying that he turned out 
 much better than I thought possible. He had his own un- 
 couth ways, but he brought me as quickly as he well could — 
 told me all the news he was able to think of — was perfectly 
 satisfied with his thaler trinkgeld— three shillings for fifty miles 
 is not a very extravagant reward — and when I added a few 
 cigars, he was extremely grateful, so we shook hands, and 
 wished each other a great deal of happiness. 
 
108 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 CARLSBAD. 
 
 I got up at five o'clock on Tuesday morning, and com- 
 menced drinking from my old fountain, the Theresien Brunn. 
 There appeared to me to be an immense number of people, com- 
 pared with my former recollections, and some changes in the per- 
 sonal appearance of two important springs had taken place. The 
 Schloss Brunn had had an accident. In order to keep the 
 Sprudel in full play, they are obliged to make borings periodi- 
 cally, in order to prevent the passage from beneath being 
 choked up by the rapid formations of the incrustation known 
 by the name of the Sprudelstein. This operation was per- 
 formed, as usual, last year, when all of a sudden the Schloss 
 Brunn disappeared. As this source is remarkably popular with 
 the natives, who constantly resort to it, being the coolest water, 
 having an agreeable taste and supposed efficacy in many 
 minor ailments, great was their discomfiture when the intelli- 
 ligence was made known, and great their joy when, upon break- 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 109 
 
 ing into the rock a little deeper, the fountain of health was 
 again discovered, with only a trifling loss of temperature, which, 
 however, as it contained an increased amount of carbonic acid 
 gas, had a still more acceptable flavour. But what surprised me 
 most was, that both this source and the Mtihl Brunn, which 
 has always been extremely a-la-mode, and is now in the zenith 
 of its popularity, were surrounded with barricades, open, indeed, 
 at each end, but admitting of approach only by single file. 
 Upon inquiring the reason of this unusual appearance, I was 
 informed that the crowding round these wells of water had been 
 so great at the commencement of this season, that it required the 
 strength and gallantry of a Moses to enable the weaker sex to 
 obtain a supply of the precious fluid ; and broken cups and torn 
 dresses attested the vehemence of the assault upon this pool of 
 Bethesda. In vain they rose at half-past three in the morning : 
 long before the magical eighth goblet could be quaffed, the 
 siege had recommenced, and the most happily-inaugurated 
 cures threatened to end only in aggravation of the malady; — a 
 mind free from care being an indispensable requisite, whereas, 
 owing to corroding anxieties about the events of the mor- 
 row, which these circumstances engendered, calmness and tran- 
 quillity had fled. Certainly here was a dignus vindice nodus ; 
 and happily a liberator appeared in the shape of Mr. Sep- 
 pings, a gentleman connected with our Indian navy, who, 
 
110 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 having observed the unnecessary confusion, suggested to, 
 and obtained from, the authorities the remedy which I have 
 described, and which at once appeased the storm and checked 
 the growing evil. The scene, however, was droll enough 
 when first I saw it: the double file extended some hundred 
 feet beyond the wooden barriers ; two policemen were stationed 
 to see that no one cut in; one file passed on one side the 
 source, and one on the other; four nymphs were incessantly 
 employed in receiving the goblets and filling them, and ad- 
 ministered, by my stop watch, upon the average, from 900 to 
 1000 goblets per hour, from half-past four to eight o'clock. As, 
 however, a quarter of an hour only must elapse between each 
 potation, when the strain was the greatest the drinkers formed 
 an endless chain — those who had drunk being compelled to 
 march back, and replace themselves at the end of the tail, in 
 order to arrive at the source again at the proper moment, 
 really working hard for health. Having surveyed and com- 
 prehended all these matters, and taken my stipulated amount of 
 tepid water and walking, I repaired to the best of cafes, the 
 Elephant, in the Wiese, where a delicious cup of chocolat 
 sante, and the unrivalled breads of endless variety, which Carls- 
 bad alone can produce, awaited me on a little table under the 
 shade of the pollard chestnut. Then I repaired to my soi- 
 disant Paradies, where they modestly asked three florins for 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. Ill 
 
 my room, and I politely declined acceding to the request. 
 The Ober Kellner returned with a demand for 2/30, which I 
 firmly but respectfully declined also, and sent my ultimatum 
 an offer of two, indicating that I considered that about double 
 the value received, and it was graciously accepted. This com- 
 mencement gave me an unpleasant impression of my hosts, 
 and I went to the room now prepared for me at the Schild, 
 with the determination to have an understanding with the Frau, 
 to whom I was addressed, before I committed myself. When I 
 saw her I thought I had never seen a female less calculated to 
 inspire confidence, and one whose countenance indicated un 
 moins heureux naturel, slip-shod, untidily dressed, active 
 and bustling, always smiling. This interview determined me 
 not to surrender without at least attempting to find a 
 private lodging. I found all the first floors, and most of 
 the second, occupied ; and I had some difficulty in getting an 
 apartment for less than a month ; but at last I succeeded with 
 an old lady who owns the Hanseathisches Hanse, about the 
 middle of the Alte Wiese, where I got a vestibule, bed-room, 
 dressing-room, and drawing-room, very clean and very com- 
 fortable, sixteen florins for a fortnight. They asked me two 
 florins and a- half a day, or thirty- one for a fortnight, at the 
 Schild, for a single room. It is true that my new apartment 
 was au troisieme; but in this respect, for any one not lame or 
 
112 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 otherwise incapacitated, it is positively an advantage not to be 
 too low. As I am now upon the subject of lodging at Carls- 
 bad, and as it is a matter of some importance to those who may 
 intend to visit it, I will give the result of my own experience. 
 Avoid the hotels, one and all: they afford no advantage what- 
 ever, and have many discomforts peculiar to themselves. In 
 the first place, when it is hot at Carlsbad, which is not unfre- 
 quently the case during the drinking season, it is apt to be 
 very hot, and it is a great comfort to have the sun off your 
 house by midday. Now, all the inns of note, except the Stadt 
 Hanover, which, upon the whole, is perhaps the best, have no 
 morning sun, but they have it upon them all the afternoon. 
 Not one of the hotels is nearly as good as it might be ; the 
 Schild has some excellent apartments in the three houses of 
 which it is composed, and if it were as thoroughly well- 
 managed, as it is the contrary, might, with its garden, be com- 
 fortable enough ; but they have all in common the drawback 
 of a suffocating smell of kitchen half the day, which, in 
 almost all, is mixed up with an agreeable, pungent, and more 
 enduring odour of stables and rotting straw usually confined in 
 the back court, and which, ascending in warm steam, permeates 
 the entire house : besides, they not only give forth the culinary 
 odours of what is cooked for the benefit of their own special 
 frequenters, but also of that (and it is no small portion) which 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 113 
 
 is sent out to the lodging houses. The nicest of the separate 
 houses is the King of England, above the Theresien Brunn 
 gardens; and there are some agreeable houses in the Hirschen 
 Sprung Gasse, which is a terrace looking as if it sat on the top 
 of the houses in the Alte Wiese. They get the early morning 
 sun and good air. In the Alte and Neue Wiese, which are the 
 most fashionable, the air is certainly a little stagnant, with 
 the river and two rows of thick, bushy, shady, horse-chestnuts 
 bordering it on both sides; and the second or third floors are pre- 
 ferable to the first, because you get better air and more walking, 
 which is a very necessary part of the ceremony. Before a bar- 
 gain is finally made, it is as well for the lovers of comfort and 
 tranquillity to make sure that they are not engaging the house 
 of some musician, where practising is constantly going on, or 
 one of the very few private houses where dinners are cooked to 
 be sent out. Once clear of that and the afternoon sun, and taking 
 care that your house is not actually built into the rock so as to 
 have no proper ventilation, you will find yourself accommodated 
 in a scrupulously clean and comfortable abode, with every atten- 
 tion in health or in sickness that you could possibly desire. They 
 will make you a very good breakfast or tea at home, if you prefer 
 having it in your room, or they will set your table out under 
 the trees opposite your house. I almost always breakfasted at 
 the Panorama, on account of the fine air, the pretty locale, 
 
 i 
 
114 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 and the walk it gave me up the hill — then taking an easy 
 book, or newspaper, and when the weather is fine, one is 
 quite lost in the beauty and ayrement of the place. If, how- 
 ever, you are gourmand about your coffee and chocolate, they 
 can only be had in perfection at the Elephant, from whence, 
 from eight o'clock in the morning till eight in the evening, they 
 flow in perpetual fountains, and gratify the palates of fresh 
 successions of visitors. It is wonderful to what a degree of 
 perfection they have carried their attention to the feelings of 
 their guests at Carlsbad, and it must be owing to some very 
 outrageous misconduct if you experience, I won't say incivility, 
 but the slighest approach to it. If you go to a cafe, not only 
 are you not compelled to eat of their bread, but not even to drink 
 of their drink, for you may buy your own bread, and bring it 
 with you and have your own coffee, tea, or cocoa, made up for 
 you there, almost without charge, and you may sit down and 
 occupy a little table, and have nothing but a glass of water, 
 and read the newspaper and sit as long as you please, without 
 receiving an impatient glance. You may come and go, pay 
 or not at the time, have as little or as much as you think 
 proper, and you will never be disturbed. The result, of course, 
 of this, as of all thoroughly good-humoured civility, from 
 whatever motive it may proceed, is, that nine-tenths of the 
 comers spend a great deal more than they otherwise would. 
 
The Elephant Coffee Hous 
 
 Scr page 114. 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 115 
 
 The Carlsbad bread deserves a chapter by itself ; most people, 
 during their morning potations, purchase their provision for 
 breakfast, and the varieties of shape and composition give 
 great scope to this harmless exercise of gastronomy. 
 
 The Germans are not generally very enterprising, as far, at 
 least, as a traveller sees of them ; not because they are natu- 
 rally deficient in spirit and activity, I am inclined to think — 
 witness what a German waiter will do — but they are cramped 
 by their paternal government; and that energy which, by wise 
 institutions, should be fostered and guided, is here hopelessly 
 discouraged. However, in the article of bread at this watering 
 place, they have shown no disposition to be satisfied with any- 
 thing short of perfection. Bohemia and Austria Proper not 
 producing sufficiently excellent materials, they have their flour 
 from the Bannat of Temeswar, some 1000 miles off, and their 
 yeast twice a week from Vienna. The varieties of the staff of 
 life are here endless, though they certainly appear in a some- 
 what fragile shape, and if any one were to lean upon the 
 so-called stange or bar of bread for support, it would treat 
 him very much after the fashion of Pharaoh King of Egypt. 
 There are endless diminutive appellations of endearment given 
 to these little idols. The following are, however, the prin- 
 cipal designations: first, the Semeln, which is the common 
 round roll, and which is either quite plain, or has in it a little 
 
 I 2 
 
11G CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 milk. Those who like to have a reason for a name will be 
 gratified to learn that it is so called from the Latin semel, once 
 baked; in contradistinction to the Bis-cotto or Zwieback (the 
 rusk or biscuit), twice baked. Next comes the Kipfl, or 
 Hornl, so designated from its crescent shape, which is nearly 
 as universal in Germany as the Semeln, and is the invariable 
 native accompaniment of the morning's coffee. Then the 
 Stange, which is a very crisp finger, about a foot long, and 
 has a little butter added to the flour and milk. Following in 
 the wake of this, but a step nearer pastry, is the Stritzel ; it is 
 extremely good, but unlike the Stange, twisted in the shape of 
 a true lover's knot. Then the Zwieback, before described, of 
 which the most recherche is that made at Presburgh, which 
 has a European reputation, cannot be made elsewhere, and is 
 to be found in all distinguished watering places. It is a rusk 
 encrusted with a mixture of almonds and sugar, very light; 
 they dip it here in their chocolate and coffee, and esteem it a 
 great delicacy ; it is to be found, chez nous, in that great exhi- 
 bition of all nations, called Fortnum and Mason's; but 
 it is somewhat too sweet for the generality of British palates. 
 The Oblaten are, however, the pride of Carlsbad; they are 
 attractive -looking wafers, or rather double wafers, quite flat, 
 about five inches in diameter, impressed with a mediaeval 
 pattern, and inclosing sugar, crisp and crackling, with a slight 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 117 
 
 taste of vanille ; they are not usually eaten till after dinner. 
 So far you are within the magic medical circle. Outside the 
 sacred precincts there are such things as Kugellhopf, a species 
 of Baba, and Bohmische kolatchen, a local luxury, made of 
 heavier materials, sometimes a little cheese finding its way into 
 it; excellent in their way, but not to be thought of by the 
 docile water-drinker; the latter he must not approach till he 
 has left off drinking six weeks. 
 
 The Germans are everywhere celebrated for their farina- 
 ceous mixtures, bread, pudding, and confectionary ; and these 
 are the names which are current at this celebrated water- 
 ing place. Now where there are so many tempting bakers' 
 shops (and every one has a favourite), it may seem invidious 
 to particularize. However, having had considerable experience, 
 and knowing how much the English taste leans to the Wasser- 
 brod, i. e., simple flour and water, I have no hesitation in 
 giving the preference to a somewhat out-of-the-way unassum- 
 ing-looking shop, sign of the Golden Bell, just above the Three 
 Pheasants' Inn. It really melts in one's mouth, and for some 
 time I could hardly persuade myself that it was quite pure. 
 Maders Schweitzer Backerey, just over the bridge, gives the best 
 Kipfls and Stritzles ; and the Goldene Knone, Alte Wiese, the 
 best Stanges andFleckten, a plainer sort of double Stange — two 
 twisted together — they are remarkably good ; I can recommend 
 
118 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 them. Besides all the foregoing, there is another composition 
 which some people cannot breakfast without, which are Kipfls and 
 a Stange, which goes at the Krone by the name of the Kleistliche 
 Stange, because it was invented by Countess Kleist, both covered 
 with rock salt and cummin seed. It seems a strange mixture, and 
 I could hardly induce myself to taste it; I, however, did so, and 
 was conquered at on ce ; it is reckoned very wholesome. Last, but 
 not least, comes the Roggen brod, or rye bread, the joy and 
 delight of all true Germans, and which I would fain enjoy too, 
 but it is the bane of weak digestions. The natives would 
 rather have a piece of good rye bread and butter than the 
 choicest sweet cakes you can offer them. I was surprised to find 
 that it was not very cheap at Carlsbad ; it cost a trifle more 
 than one penny a pound, and you may get good wheaten bread in 
 Bristol for the same price. They do make a sort of brown 
 bread, of which the large proportion is wheaten meal, but it is not 
 popular. It is difficult to ascertain the exact value, by weight, 
 of the finest white rolls ; you get five for twopence ; these may 
 weigh a pound and a quarter, which would make the four-pound 
 loaf about sixpence halfpenny. The natives rarely eat above 
 two with their breakfast, in the face of a dinner between twelve 
 and two o'clock. From the number of bakers' shops one meets 
 with in Carlsbad, one should be tempted to suppose that people 
 lived on bread alone ; and indeed there is some truth in the 
 
Chap. V] 
 SUDDOS 
 
 Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 119 
 
 supposition ; the quantity of meat consumed per head amongst 
 the population must be exceedingly trifling. I forget the num- 
 ber of souls mentioned in Dr. De Cairo's Almanack, strangers 
 included, but it exceeds 5000, and the shambles are so small 
 that one has some difficulty in discovering them ; in fact, the 
 elements for the dinners are of the most moderate order. Beef, 
 mutton, and veal such as this, would be, in the classical lan- 
 guage of that animal paradise in the heart of the City called 
 Smithfield, of a very slow demand. The poultry is impossible ; 
 the vegetables neither numerous nor excellent of their sort; 
 hares and partridges, when they are to be got, are as good as 
 elsewhere; and Hase mit schmetten sauce is a delicacy. You 
 can generally get a good soup and a good Mehlspiese ; and if 
 you don't dine too late, or if you take the trouble to order it 
 beforehand, you can get an eatable bit of beef or mutton. 
 
 At the Panorama, the Kursaal, and some of the hotels, if 
 you give them a day or two's notice, you can have something 
 better; but all such festins are to be avoided by the prudent 
 water drinker : indeed, at the inns, the hosts are in dread of the 
 doctors, and will neither give you mustard, nor vinegar, nor 
 salad, however much you may insist upon your right to do what 
 you will with what your money will buy. One discovers some 
 ludicrous inconsistencies in the regime de rigueur, such, for 
 instance, as tins: because they are little accustomed to eat cold 
 
120 
 
 CARLSBAD. 
 
 [Chap. VI. 
 
 butter at breakfast and tea as we do, it is forbidden ; but you 
 are permitted to partake at dinner of their cookery, all of 
 which is swimming in bad melted and fried butter, which to 
 English apprehensions is really unwholesome. There can be 
 no doubt that the plainer you live whilst under the influence of 
 this powerful water the better; and the more we islanders can 
 bend our stubborn selves into conformity to the hours here, the 
 better shall we be able to get on afterwards with our own. Get 
 up at half-past five at latest; make the indispensable commence- 
 ment of an Englishman's toilet; wrap yourself up warm; 
 dispose of your eight glasses, more or less, between six and 
 eight; don't force yourself to drink more than you comfortably 
 can — nature will direct you ; dawdle about, or walk for half an 
 hour before you come home after the last glass ; then return 
 home and finish dressing, which will rest you if at all tired; 
 try and get to breakfast at nine. The quantity of water that 
 has been swallowed, with most people, prevents a very ravenous 
 appetite, but the amount of it will again be your truest guide 
 as to quantity; don't hear of any nonsense about abstaining 
 from tea, coffee, chocolate, or butter; the golden rule is, never 
 touch anything about which you are doubtful at other times, 
 but continue what you know agrees with you. Breakfast 
 out of doors if you possibly can, and stay out ; try and forget 
 there is such a thing as business, or a penny post. Wander 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 121 
 
 about the shady woods, dine at two, sit afterwards; saunter 
 out to one of the thousand ginguettes that are more or less 
 distant from the town about six o'clock, there you will be 
 soothed by music, a cup of chocolate, and oblaten. Try and 
 abstain from eating again afterwards, and you will find a very 
 comfortable sleep stealing over you about half-past nine. 
 Fight manfully against sleep in the day time, you will have one 
 or two hard struggles with the enemy ; shake yourself and rush 
 out, and afterwards he is vanquished. 
 
 It is incredible the number of doctors there are ; everybody 
 I spoke to seemed to have a different one ; and it is the more 
 remarkable, as the profits hardly seem worth the competition, 
 and, in many cases, they cannot defray the expenses of the 
 journey and sojourn. I see it stated in the guide books of the 
 place, which appear to have authority, that the ordinary fee for 
 the four or five weeks of the cure, is from ten to twenty-four 
 florins, in other words, from a napoleon to two guineas ; to be 
 sure, the advice is usually given during the mornings' walk, 
 and no great expenditure is needed in carriages, horses, and 
 gold-headed canes ; but there is some difference between that 
 and the English tariff. Think what terror such a proposition 
 would spread in Saville Row. What a pity it is we cannot 
 have a little Free Trade in these matters, a sort of Medical 
 County Court. Many of these gentlemen who practise thus 
 
122 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 at Carlsbad are men of instruction and attainments ; but the 
 proverb " Quot homines, tot sententiae," holds quite as good 
 here as elsewhere: some aver that great discrimination is 
 necessary in the choice of the proper spring ; others, that as 
 the analysis gives to all the same ingredients, with very tri- 
 fling exceptions, the temperature at which they come forth 
 from the earth, and at which they are swallowed, makes no 
 difference; my own experience contradicts the latter opinion. 
 Some, again, think it absolutely necessary, in order to pro- 
 duce a proper effect, that the waters should have a drastic 
 effect ; others, that this particular consequence, though gene- 
 rally present, is very far from being a sine qua non ; and 
 they produce many cases where, after a while, great benefits 
 have resulted from drinking these waters, although at the time 
 they have had even a contrary effect. And thus there is always 
 something to buoy up the patient's spirits : if he improves in 
 health whilst under the operation of drinking, the conclusion is 
 manifest; if he feels very unwell and dejected, it is a sign the 
 waters are taking effect ; if the symptoms for which he is pay- 
 ing his devoirs at Carlsbad manifest no perceptible alteration, 
 then the good is to come on return home. Few pass through 
 their course without experiencing reminiscences of most of the 
 ills they have suffered from in former life, and some periods of 
 nervous depression and weakness ; but many do not lose flesh. 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 123 
 
 Some have an intense appetite, and it is beyond all question 
 that hundreds depart yearly in a wonderfully improved state of 
 health. It is, probably, the most potent medical agent of all the 
 German waters, and it is hardly safe for dilletante invalids like 
 myself to go there, for half the faces one sees look so thoroughly 
 uncomfortable that it is enough to make one ill if one were 
 not so before. Everybody looks into everybody's physiognomy, 
 every morning at Carlsbad; the sickly ones become the most 
 familiar, and, in spite of all determinations to the contrary, 
 one's eyes will everlastingly wander to them during the morn- 
 ing's march. 
 
 I never was much more astonished at anything than at the 
 circulating medium here, — a surprise which was not lessened 
 when I was assured that, curious as it was, they had just 
 emerged from a state of things still more unheard of. When I 
 presented my metal thaler to pay for something, I was offered 
 in change a little bundle of most inconceivable-looking dirty 
 shreds of paper : the only thing I can liken them to, are the 
 toll tickets one sees in a waggoner's hat after an accidental 
 sojourn there of two or three days. Upon my manifesting some 
 repugnance to this proposed exchange of silver for filthy rags, 
 the bookseller, at whose shop I happened to be, told me, 
 that about two years ago, when the financial difficulties of 
 Austria were at their culminating point, they resorted to an 
 
124 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 issue of vast quantities of paper redeemable upon future con- 
 tingencies. The precious metals at once vanished. The people, 
 recollecting the events at the termination of the great war in 
 1815, when the Government compelled the payment of taxes 
 in the silver florin, value two shillings, whilst it issued a paper 
 florin, nominally the same value, but really not worth more 
 than tenpence, were very shy of accepting the new offer. So 
 they hit upon a succedaneum in the shape of private paper : 
 each shopkeeper issued notes, promising to pay at sight a cer- 
 tain amount of bread, or meat, or cloth, or silk, as the case 
 might be. This was carried on to an incredible extent, and 
 was, I was assured, for some time, the only alternative to a 
 state of absolute barter. Some rather ludicrous scenes took 
 place with foreigners coming to Carlsbad, who were not 
 altogether satisfied w T ith the offer of this species of change 
 in return for their sovereigns and napoleons. One traveller, 
 already sufficiently discontented with the ragged scraps which 
 the exigencies of life had compelled him to accept, went 
 to a second or third-rate inn, and having got something 
 to eat, presented one of these bons for payment; whereupon, 
 as it represented a higher value than the soup and Kind- 
 fleish he had consumed, being some shoemaker's acceptance 
 for a pair of shoes, certain papers were tendered in ex- 
 change, of so novel a cut and colour, that with disdain he 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 125 
 
 rejected them, scornfully inquiring who was to be responsible 
 to him for the fulfilment of such promissory note. With equal 
 haughtiness the tenderer replied, "I, to be sure ! M "And pray, 
 sir, who may you be ?" " Why, the head waiter of the Three 
 Periwinkles, to be sure," with an obeisance of offended 
 dignity. There was no other means of carrying on the daily 
 affairs of life, and so irritability was useless ; but the losses 
 incident to such a state of things, when even the waiters enjoyed 
 the hitherto royal privilege of mint, can easily be imagined. I 
 have already said the precious metals disappeared; and the con- 
 trivances to which they had recourse under the circumstances, 
 demonstrates how very much necessity is the mother of inven- 
 tion. One process combines so much simplicity and originality 
 that it is worthy of mention. The florin is composed of sixty 
 kreuzers; the notes issued by the Government are for ten 
 kreuzers and six kreuzers ; but as by far the largest number of 
 daily transactions fall below the lowest sum issued, namely, 
 the six-kreuzer note, the question arose how to obtain the 
 smaller change. They wisely cut the knot that they could not 
 solve. At each corner a number was printed, indicating the 
 value ; so when a purchase of three kreuzers was to be made, 
 the note was cut in half; when smaller still, the fragment was 
 again subject to the requisite process of diminution. It may 
 easily be supposed what the Government Bank gains by the 
 
126 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 enormous percentage of this flimsy stuff, which is worn out, 
 overlooked, or destroyed, and the consequent loss to private 
 individuals, especially the poorest class. The people are to a 
 farther extent sufferers, on account of the fall of the Austrian 
 credit. There is now a fair sprinkling of copper, but during 
 the course of the six weeks I was in Bohemia, I did not meet 
 with a single piece of silver in the ordinary transactions of 
 life. The so-called Austrian silver florin is properly worth 
 two shillings; it is now only worth one shilling and eight- 
 pence. Prices remain almost unchanged, so the shopkeeper, 
 if he has dealings with the foreigner for the supply of his 
 goods, is a loser to the extent of near twenty per cent. One 
 wonders how they manage to bear all this with so little open 
 murmuring. Quietness and good nature seem part of the 
 Austrian character, and combined with it there is a frankness 
 and simplicity in their manners which renders them to my 
 mind very engaging; and as self-interest is, perhaps, still more 
 favourable to the development of these qualities, they shine 
 forth here in their full lustre. 
 
 Carlsbad has been called, and with some truth, an immense 
 hospital, with free trade in medical advice. The quietness of 
 the place is extraordinary, although the traffic through it 
 during the season is to such an extent, that I have seen 
 several times six, and sometimes even seven diligences, and 
 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 127 
 
 extra post-waggons, standing together changing horses in the 
 market-place. During the hours of drinking, however, these 
 vehicles are compelled to go hy back streets, and even after- 
 wards they are not permitted to pass through otherwise than at 
 a slow pace, and the post-horn cannot be blown in the town. 
 I never heard a dog yelp, or a child scream, or any painful 
 sound from any quarter ; and what is still more extraordinary, 
 though I always leant an attentive ear, I never heard a boy 
 whistle or sing, though I have several times seen them come out 
 of school. Whether it is the effect of the Sprudel vapour, or 
 whether the police order them off, I can't say, but the carol 
 of a bird is never heard ; indeed, they are very rarely to be met 
 with in the woods which surround the town. Yet, with all 
 this, no one can say Carlsbad has a dull air; on the contrary, 
 the outdoors' life and locomotion required, the constant ebb 
 and flow of the visitors, fill the streets at all hours, and gives 
 it at times the appearance of a fair. Go where you will in the 
 afternoon, you will see parties of all ages and sizes sitting at 
 little tables under shady trees or booths, sipping their choco- 
 late and conversing. Then sounds, sometimes though not 
 always of sweet music, float upon the air; at one time the 
 inspiring chords of Labitzky's unrivalled capelle, sometimes the 
 wilder notes of the Styrian and Tyrolese airs — voice, harp, and 
 guitar. 
 
128 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 The Bohemian harp is a most unsophisticated instrument, 
 made at a village called Preisnitz, not far off, for about two 
 guineas ; it has six octaves, and the semitones are produced by 
 the pressure of a little brass hook which turns on a screw in 
 the top. Two of these harps, with a guitar, flute, and violin, 
 more or less, compose the usual tea-garden bands; and so 
 correct is the national ear in this land of harmony, that you 
 will rarely hear a note out of time, even if it does not give you 
 an inclination to dance, greater or less, according to your age 
 and nerves. There is no rose without its thorns ; and as the 
 windows are all open, and music the rage, hopeless attempts to 
 conquer Thalberg's newest fantasia, and to rise to the heights 
 of " Eobert! Eobert! grace pour toi et moi," induce one occa- 
 sionally devoutly to join in that lofty aspiration. I was myself 
 rather unfortunately situated in one respect, being directly 
 opposite the theatre; for though the stream was between us, the 
 roof of the playhouse was of so slight a material that the re- 
 hearsals of the operas (not quite of the best when the evening 
 came) at times sent forth strains resembling a discordant shout, 
 the seven male and seven female choristers having failed 
 in a sensation chorus. The opera, however, is really not so 
 very bad as might be expected, assisted by Labitsky's or- 
 chestra; and the comedy is very respectably given. The 
 singers and actors have, besides, this great and evident merit — 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 129 
 
 the having learned to live upon air. The pit costs tenpence, 
 the stalls sixteenpence, the boxes three shillings and six- 
 pence, and the theatre is never more than half full; still it 
 continues during the season, beginning at five and terminating 
 at eight, and, strange to say, the corps does not die of starva- 
 tion. Unquestionably the expenses of existence are not very 
 onerous. My breakfast, as I chose to be so extravagant as to 
 go out to the coffee-house, and to give the waitress a penny, cost 
 me sixpence halfpenny, and my dinner one shilling and nine- 
 pence, lodging one shilling and eightpence, attendance six- 
 pence a day. But then I was generous and lavish. The 
 shops afford attractions. The Bohemian garnets are celebrated, 
 and are set not without some taste, and in great variety. Other 
 jewellery there is besides, of different descriptions, excellent 
 imitations of rococo, lace of various patterns, made up for 
 ladies' toilettes, and very pretty things in inlaid woods, at prices 
 quite incomprehensible to those who are accustomed to deal in 
 the privileged streets of London. Mader, the watchmaker, de- 
 serves an European reputation. There is also an immense show 
 of very ingeniously-contrived cutlery, which is in great vogue 
 amongst the natives, and is well known by its blue-coloured 
 handles ; it is almost as cheap, but not nearly so good, as our 
 own Sheffield. There are shops for the wares of the several 
 porcelain manufacturers in the neighbourhood ; the articles 
 
130 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 exhibited show progress, and there is a certain originality 
 about their shapes and colours that is highly praiseworthy. 
 The glaring defect is, an overcharge both of gilding and paint- 
 ing; but, as the eyes of their customers get better educated, 
 this will give place to a simpler and a purer taste ; and there is 
 something pleasant in remarking the absence of a servile imi- 
 tation of Sevres and Dresden, which is elsewhere so universal 
 as to become fatiguing. The flower and fruit painting is 
 improving much ; and they have all their materials here so 
 close at hand in the valley of the Eger, with new coal-pits 
 daily discovering themselves, that, if not interfered with bureau- 
 cratically, this manufacture promises to be a great source of 
 wealth to the country. The coal which is the cheapest, and 
 most in use here, is not black, but of a bister colour, and is 
 called brown coal : it does not dirty the fingers, and it has an 
 agreeable appearance; but it is not good, and it dirties the 
 chimneys, giving out a dense brown smoke. The black coal is 
 infinitely preferred. I am told that it is supposed to be an 
 imperfect formation left by nature in a transition state. It is 
 very cheap, and used by all the cooks in Carlsbad ; and if by 
 its smoke it does not enhance the beauty of the landscape, let 
 us hope that it may do so in another way, by keeping the axe 
 out of the woods which clothe the neighbouring hills, and lend 
 such a charm to the view on all sides. The walks and drives 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 131 
 
 about Carlsbad are endless, shady, dry, and remarkably well 
 kept by means of a small tax levied upon each visitor, and for 
 which he is abundantly repaid. 
 
 At Carlsbad they have a peculiar method of assessing a 
 tax upon a certain portion, and that no inconsiderable one, 
 of the incomes of the inhabitants, letting lodgings being 
 the grand source of revenue. Each owner of a house is 
 obliged, by a regulation which has both a police and a fiscal 
 object, to fill up a paper upon the arrival of his lodger, stating 
 his name, quality, and the date of his entrance into the house ; 
 and upon his departure, a duplicate of this form must be sent 
 to the office in order to obtain the passport. Thus the officials 
 ascertain exactly how many lodgers each owner has had, the 
 length of their stay, and the floors they have occupied, and 
 can, therefore, form a pretty good guess as to the rent that 
 has been paid. When the season is over the owner is sum- 
 moned to the bureau, and then commences a great deal of 
 fencing between the assessor and his victim, as to the real gains 
 made ; the one endeavouring to increase, the other to decrease, 
 the sum to be accounted for as much as possible. When, at 
 last, it is settled, the Government takes no less than twenty 
 per cent., or one-fifth of the whole ; which is further increased 
 to the tax-payer by a very strange regulation, compelling him 
 to defray the postage of the official documents, from the village 
 
 K 2 
 
182 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 to the chief town of the circle, thence to the head-office in the 
 capital of the province for a final overhauling, and then back 
 again, to be registered as confirmed in each of those places; 
 and he may think himself fortunate if some error or other, of 
 which he is wholly guiltless, has not taken it round by Vienna. 
 Such is their mania for registration. I have been told that, as 
 a system, their official account- keeping is well contrived, and 
 would work well did they not carry it to such an absurd extreme. 
 Hammer, Aich, Hans Heiling, Engelhouse, Elbogen, Hau- 
 enstein, Guisubl, and Dalwitz, are attractive objects for a prome- 
 nade ; but, somehow, the day is gone before there is time to 
 think about them. Charming panoramas are to be seen from 
 the Aberg and Orientirung's Hohe, especially the latter. 
 Perhaps the most delightful view about the place is from the 
 gardens of the Helenen Hof, which, this year, was the gayest 
 of the gay, in consequence of its being occupied by a distin- 
 guished individual, who gave several hut too brilliant entertain- 
 ments, whose first wish appeared to be, to make others happy, 
 whom no mischance affected, and who on his departure car- 
 ried away all hearts in the place. The only objection I have to 
 make to him is, that he was in too strong health to need the 
 cure, and that the entertainments were of a nature to place 
 duty to the severe requirements of the locality, and inclination 
 to amusement and indulgence, in perpetual conflict. Poor 
 
The two Ladies of Carisbad. 
 
 See parte 133. 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 133 
 
 humanity ought not to be so exposed to such severe trials. 
 He has much to answer for ; and I believe the faculty, terrified 
 for the hitherto unsullied reputation of the place, meditated a 
 combined remonstrance against such Un-kur-massig doings. 
 
 Carlsbad is a Babel as to nations and languages, as every 
 one knows ; and people come and go, and compare disorders, 
 and make intimate acquaintances which are proverbial for the 
 shortness of their duration; but all that, makes such society as 
 may suit one's fancy ; as light as a native Mehlspeise, there is 
 no future in it — all is present — all is ephemeral. There is hardly 
 food for scandal in a hospital, though there are some persons 
 who come here for a sort of gay season; and such a thing 
 as a matrimonial alliance, though very rare, has been known to 
 originate in this otherwise anti-hymeneal soil. These comers 
 are chiefly such as winter in Dresden, Cracow, Warsaw, and 
 Prague, who get some insight into a different world from con- 
 tact with the strangers from its various parts. They gossip 
 over the coffee-table, and are extremely anxious to know who 
 is who. 
 
 There are two never- failing yearly visitors to Carlsbad, who 
 may now be considered as much a part of the place as the two 
 celebrated ladies were an integral portion of the enchanting 
 environs of Llangollen; and, indeed, except that those were 
 sisters by association, love, and affection, and these by the tie 
 
134 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 of nature, there is a good deal of resemblance between 
 them — with one point of striking difference. The similitude 
 consists in a costume wholly unlike that of those about them, 
 and in a complete knowledge of everything, and everybody — 
 birth, parentage, and education ; the dissimilarity, in a contempt 
 for personal appearance in the two ladies of Carlsbad, 
 whilst their Welsh prototypes were as remarkable for the 
 scrupulousness of their half-antique costumes. The resem- 
 blance also holds good in a strong desire to please, and in the 
 complete absence of even the smallest unkind expression when 
 speaking of others. They are always to be found amongst the 
 Elephantine shades during the day-time, whatever the weather 
 may be, with coffee, or work, or newspapers ; and in the evening, 
 at their own house, ready to accept or communicate informa- 
 tion ; and any one who has the good fortune to do so will have 
 reason to congratulate himself upon having made an acquaint- 
 ance, of which the originality of first appearances would probably 
 not have enabled him at once to comprehend the intrinsic value. 
 One of these two ladies is a great invalid; and the never- 
 failing devotion of her sister towards her is a touching example 
 to all who witness it. The freedom with which every one talks 
 politics is very striking ; and the moment of my visit was one 
 which gave infinite occasion for remarks of this nature. I 
 mentioned before the sort of feeling that I found existing in 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 135 
 
 Hamburgh, amongst the common people, towards the Aus- 
 trians. I had not been long in Carlsbad before I found that 
 there was no love lost between them and the Prussians. I 
 made some trivial inquiries of the waitress of one of the 
 popular guinguettes, as she gave me my breakfast; and as 
 these ladies are never unwilling to gossip, she proceeded to 
 inform me of the inexpressibly shabby conduct of a party 
 who had had some coffee for which they had not paid, on 
 some pretence or other, and (singularly rare occurrence) had 
 never returned to make good their omission. Upon asking 
 who they could be, she said they were either Jews or Prussians, 
 she could not be certain which, but most probably the latter. 
 
 Nothing can be more lamentable than to hear the language 
 of the Germans when speculating upon the future destinies 
 of their country. They seem to have lost all confidence, not in 
 their rulers alone, for at that one should hardly be surprised ; 
 but, what is far worse, in their country's fortunes. One and 
 all declare that there is no real religion in Germany; and 
 though at first I could hardly bring myself to credit it, I have 
 now come to the conclusion that it is no exaggeration of the 
 fact. Frederick the Great and his system* have fairly up- 
 
 * The system of Frederick the Great, in a civil point of view, is admirable ; human 
 ingenuity could scarcely have devised a better, and, with its subsequent improve- 
 ments, has tended to give Prussia the remarkable stability which she has lately 
 manifested, in spite of the anti-cohesive nature of her dominions. And the excellent 
 
136 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 rooted it in North Germany, and indeed the truth compels 
 me to declare, that Protestant Germany is almost without a 
 creed. The Church service is never thought of on a week-day, 
 never twice on a Sunday; and in Dresden and other places 
 I believe the habit amongst the upper classes, is to go 
 about once a month. If you express your surprise at this 
 habitual absence from God's house, they will tell you that 
 by going too often it loses its effect. In regard to the 
 working classes, I have no data; but there are certain indica- 
 tions that would tend to show that the expectation of such 
 observances on their part must be limited indeed. In the first 
 place, their opportunities and means of attendance are in a 
 smaller ratio ; then they work a good deal on a Sunday; then 
 they have adult Sunday-schools, where the subject of religion 
 is never introduced, and where reading, writing, arithmetic, 
 trades, and design are taught, not unfrequently under muni- 
 cipal authority. Then the training-schools for masters are not 
 arranged as ours are, where the art of communicating knowledge 
 is the principal thing taught, and that mainly of a religious 
 tendency, by means of the young school attached ; but, during 
 
 state of her finances, after the recent storm, will demonstrate this even to the 
 superficial observer. But if you attempt, what Frederick did, to substitute official 
 accuracy and a well-devised system of checks and supervision for religious prin- 
 ciple, instead of grafting it upon it, you build upon an inverted cone; and, though 
 it may apparently flourish for a time, it will eventually collapse, for it is founded 
 on the sand. 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 137 
 
 the three years of exacted attendance, they are crammed, and 
 often successfully (for the German intellect is a very powerful 
 one), with a great variety of learning. The faith, however, of 
 Christ crucified for our offences, and risen again for our justifi- 
 cation, is not only never taught, but the poisonous doctrines of 
 Hegel, Bauer, and Strauss are openly inculcated. Not the school- 
 masters only, but the clergy also are, I am assured — and by the 
 Protestants themselves — deeply tinctured with these blasphe- 
 mous opinions. The sowers then go forth to sow their seed, 
 and the fruits, in due time (not quite so rapidly, though perfectly 
 similar to those of the Theban plough), spring up. Wurtem- 
 burg and Baden prided themselves upon the perfection to which 
 they had brought their schools and their scholars. Every one, 
 under pain of fine, was compelled to make his child drink, 
 for six years, of this fountain. The inspectors, with truth, 
 reported that their progress in learning was considerable, and 
 the most accurate and satisfactory statistics were duly registered 
 and depc sited in the archives of the respective Governments; 
 and yet, in 1848, in these two German principalities, where 
 one should have expected the greatest resistance to the wild 
 and revolutionary outbreak of that period, the most complete 
 disorder prevailed, and it appears to have been then, for the first 
 time, discovered, that every village and every hamlet was impreg- 
 nated with blasphemy and sedition. Politically, and socially, 
 
3 38 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 they were without excuse ; every feudal service had heen abolished, 
 and the workman and peasant proprietor was protected by the 
 laws, and comfortable in circumstances, far beyond nineteen- 
 twentieths of the same class in the rest of civilized Europe. 
 Socialism, communism — every fantastic and deceitful notion 
 that the arch enemy of our race can suggest — grows in rank 
 luxuriance throughout a great part of Protestant Germany. 
 
 The Catholic portion of its inhabitants, and especially the 
 Austrian and some of the Bavarian provinces, are, in this respect, 
 better; they have some kind of religious faith — some little at- 
 tachment to law and order. The school children assemble at 
 seven o'clock in the morning till nine, when they attend service 
 for half an hour, and frequently join in singing with the 
 organ : there are set times for dogmatic teaching by the parish 
 priests ; to be sure, as I have already described, in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Carlsbad it is not of a very elevating description, 
 and the fables inculcated are often so transparent, that even 
 quite the commoner sort see through them; the result is, 
 extensive infidelity. In the middle class this is even more the 
 case ; still, some have sufficient discrimination to see the blessed 
 doctrine of the atonement shining, like the polar star, through 
 all the dross and impurity of patristic tradition, and have some- 
 thing still to cling to, with which to make human life compre- 
 hensible and tolerable. Therefore, in Catholic Germany, there 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 139 
 
 is yet, in the bulk of the people, some small holding- ground for 
 the anchor of hope. When, however, in addition to all these fer- 
 menting elements of trouble and confusion, one adds the feeling 
 generated by the political events of the last three years, one can 
 hardly be surprised at the desponding and bitter view taken of 
 the future by the inhabitants of this remarkable country. The 
 unanimity of dissatisfaction is by no means so astonishing as 
 the freedom and strength of language with which it is expressed. 
 The epithets applied by his own subjects to the King of Prussia 
 are enough to make one's ears tingle. Amongst other things, 
 the inexcusable calling out of the Landwehr, last winter, 
 added to total retrogression in all liberal policy, seems to have 
 filled the cup of Prussian grievance to overflowing. They said, 
 " had the case arisen when it had become necessary to do battle 
 for our national independence, under the guidance of a wise, 
 liberal, and consistent Sovereign, there is nothing to which we 
 would not cheerfully have submitted ; but to have all this in- 
 tense loss and inconvenience created for the sake of warding off 
 the consequences of royal and diplomatic duplicity, is perfectly 
 intolerable." I heard several instances of the suffering caused 
 by this calling out of the Landwehr; and, amongst the rest, a 
 lady of high degree herself narrated to me her own case. Just 
 as her only daughter died, her husband and every one of her 
 male servants, except one, who was a foreigner, were called 
 
140 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 away. The mournful obsequies were not yet completed, before, 
 at less than twelve hours' notice, she was ordered to receive and 
 provide for twelve officers and eighty soldiers in her house. 
 
 I have no accurate idea whether the young Emperor Franz 
 Joseph is popular or otherwise with his subjects. On the lGth 
 there was a special ball at the Kursaal in honour of his birthday, 
 which falls either on that day or the day after, and a coloured 
 print, of some dimensions — a species of art in which they are great 
 adepts here, giving to the counterfeit all the air of an oil picture 
 — was put up, encircled with laurels. It appears that upon such 
 occasions it is the custom for the officers who happen to be present 
 to arrange themselves on each side the portrait, and to com- 
 mence the festivities of the evening by singing the National 
 Anthem. Except it is intended to emblematise and give signi- 
 ficance to the Teutonic love of arms, it does not seem quite 
 evident why the military only should be put forward; and some 
 of them told me it had a thoroughly flat and unsatisfactory 
 effect, having the appearance of carrying out an order from 
 head-quarters, instead of being the result of spontaneous 
 enthusiasm, the only valuable sentiment at such times. The 
 town was well illuminated at the expense of the municipality 
 on the following day, and one device had a magnificent effect — 
 a great double-headed imperially- crowned eagle, erected upon 
 a scaffolding on the cliffs immediately above the town. The 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 141 
 
 various crosses on the heights were also well traced out in 
 light, and completed a very pretty ensemble. The town was 
 thronged with country people from miles round, and it would 
 be curious to know the nature of their thoughts. The 
 Austrians are a gay, laughter-loving people, in their holiday 
 attire. They thoroughly enter into an amusement, and delight 
 in the dance and song. Just at this moment the ordinances, 
 abrogating the Constitution, were promulgated. There is 
 no doubt that, as originally settled, with Austria's compli- 
 cated empire, that constitution never could have worked. 
 Still the abrupt and despotic manner in which it was annulled, 
 coupled with the events which had preceded it in Cassel, 
 Berlin, and elsewhere, sensibly hurt the feelings of the 
 people, and caused the event to be regarded with deep dissatis- 
 faction. They did not appear exactly to understand its whole 
 bearings, but what I heard they said, was, "Ah, now the 
 Emperor can tax us as much as he pleases, without the consent 
 of our deputies." 
 
 Strange to say, there does not seem to be a man in all 
 Germany, Prince or Minister, who appears, I won't say capable 
 of dealing with the extraordinary difficulties of the present 
 state of affairs, but who appears to have the slightest notion of 
 the exigencies of his own country, or the times in which he 
 lives. In Prussia we see a Sovereign, in reference to whom the 
 
142 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 most charitable conclusion at which one can arrive is, that 
 he is occasionally under the influence of some mental delusion. 
 On the throne of Austria appears a youth, who, I believe, is 
 high-spirited, and endued with many good qualities; but, in the 
 absence of all experience — with no better influences about him 
 than Count Griinn and Prince Schwartzenberg— how is he to 
 surmount the intense embarrassments of his present situation? 
 I have no wish to speak otherwise than with respect of these 
 personages. The former is, I believe, an officer of merit, 
 capable of rendering the Emperor assistance in the game of 
 soldiers ; and the latter is a man of courage and conduct, who, 
 in ordinary times, might have filled his post with credit, but 
 there belong to his character two defects which eminently 
 disqualify him for the present crisis. One is, an aversion 
 to popular institutions ; the other, an irritability, when thwarted 
 or annoyed, which clouds his judgment, and induces him 
 to overlook the real interests of his country in an almost 
 petty desire to retaliate upon the person or country who has 
 offended. A remarkable instance of this was afforded by his 
 conduct to England in regard to Papal Aggression. Every 
 one must regret the policy we pursued towards Austria 
 in 1848, and it can hardly be supposed that it should 
 not have generated feelings of deep dissatisfaction on the part of 
 the Austrians towards us. Still, a real statesman would at once 
 
Chap. VI] CARLSBAD. 143 
 
 have seen that it would not mend matters, to endeavour to 
 widen the breach as much as possible by actually attempting 
 to excite internal dissensions and troubles amongst us. No 
 Austrian that I spoke to seemed to doubt that the celebrated 
 rescript, which caused such a commotion amongst us, was more 
 or less the work of Austria and Naples ; and that the price of it 
 was the cession, on the part of Austria, of a most important 
 right, which — extorted from the Pope by Joseph II., — has 
 remained in full force up to the present time. It was to the 
 effect that no Papal bull or rescript could be published, or 
 have any force in the Austrian empire, without the sanction of 
 the Emperor. The proposal to renounce this privilege was 
 discussed in the Council of Ministers, and Prince Schwart- 
 zenberg was almost alone in its advocacy. Upon a vote, 
 the council decided against it; yet the Prime Minister 
 thought himself strong enough to set aside that decision, 
 and in an evil hour the Emperor acted upon his advice. 
 The concession to the Court of Kome has an apparent, 
 though perfectly unreal modification — namely, that these re- 
 scripts are to be valid without the assent of the Crown only 
 when they relate to spiritual matters. Who is to draw the line 
 when one party claims to be infallible ? We fancy in England 
 we know something about the difficulty. This concession may 
 also have been granted in order more firmly to engage the 
 
J 44 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 Pope and his staff in the warfare against liberal opinions; 
 though upon that point, after what has passed, I should have 
 thought no additional incentive could have been wanting. 
 That is one of my principal reasons for supposing that this act 
 of conformity to the wishes of the Holy Father had a deeper 
 meaning. I have, however, mentioned these circumstances — 
 which, to say the least of them, are difficult to account for in 
 any other way — in order to illustrate the mischiefs which will 
 always arise when individuals, or statesmen, or governments — 
 for the cases are identical — endeavour to injure others, or from 
 a blind unchristian desire to retaliate. And then that other 
 idea of inculcating passive obedience by means of the priests. 
 There never was a more fatal attempt. Once mix up religion 
 and politics, which is the favourite delusion of the present day 
 amongst the so-called party of order on the Continent, and you 
 will not fail to inflict a most serious blow upon the first, which is 
 your only safeguard. I have read books upon this subject, much 
 in vogue, written in an attractive style by men of ability and 
 eloquence, which betray a confusion of ideas and a want of 
 knowledge of the first principles of religion, which, to an 
 Englishman, is as strange as it is deplorable. Let a Govern- 
 ment permit an ecclesiastic to teach that there is something in- 
 consistent with a man's duty towards his God in thinking that 
 some particular form of government, not his own, is better cal- 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 145 
 
 culated, than his own, to secure the happiness of his country, 
 and the effect will be a recoil, as well against the instructors 
 as against the religion of which they are the ministers. In 
 the present times there is hardly a shorter road to the destruc- 
 tion of an established church and practical infidelity. 
 
 All men of sense will applaud the strong measures taken to 
 put down the wild licence of 1848, and to restore the authority 
 of the law and something like order; though it is more than 
 probable, that if gradual and timely concessions had been made 
 previously, we should never have witnessed such an outbreak. 
 But now that this is accomplished, and with all past experience 
 before them, when, instead of an attempt to educate the public 
 mind in the path of self-government and rational freedom, one 
 sees only a determination manifested to return to the old effete 
 despotisms — to be enforced by keeping the whole Continent 
 bristling with bayonets — one can hardly, perhaps, be surprised 
 at the reflecting part of the German nation despairing of the 
 destinies of their country. Even those who belong to the 
 Absolutist party have so little faith in their, own doctrines 
 and chances of success in the present state of public feeling, 
 that, according to their different temperaments, they look 
 to one of the three following events to clear away the clouds 
 which at present overhang their political horizon : the inter- 
 vention of the Emperor of Russia against liberalism — a general 
 
l±6 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 and very sanguinary war — or the influence of the priests. This 
 presents to my mind a chaos so complete, that it might well 
 require a combination of the ablest statesmen that ever lived to 
 bring it back again into shape. But when, instead of a com- 
 bination of ability and single-heartedness, one perceives 
 nothing but mediocrity, doubtful honesty, party spirit, and 
 fanciful intrigue, the mind becomes utterly perplexed, and lost 
 in the contemplation of the future. Some think that the world 
 has nearly run its course, and that we are upon the eve of 
 stupendous events. I am inclined myself to that view, though 
 I have thought that before they occurred, the part which the great 
 continent of America is to take in the affairs of our globe 
 would be more fully developed. But whatever may be forming 
 in the womb of futurity, I think all will admit that the civilized 
 world never yet exhibited so strange a spectacle. 
 
 I perceive I have wandered far away into deep subjects, 
 which ought never to engage the thoughts of a sedate water- 
 drinker, who has fled from the struggle and bustle of the 
 world to restore his health, and with it his mental tone. Let 
 me see — where was I ? I think I began this digression by 
 something about education in Germany. Well, many a time I 
 have gone into the church at Carlsbad, and watched the decent 
 behaviour of the little school children at mass, singing to the 
 organ. I used to go there at nine o'clock, on my way to 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 147 
 
 breakfast at the Panorama. The common class of servants 
 and labourers can certainly read and write much better than 
 our own ; the reasons are obvious, and I have already given 
 them, that from the age of six to twelve the law compels them to 
 attend school, and it has struck me, that in learning to write they 
 have an advantage in the shape, and especially in the breadth, 
 of their desks ; they are nearly flat, quite firm, and sufficiently 
 broad to allow the arms to be supported ; ours are narrower 
 and more inclined ; and as acquiring this art is always a diffi- 
 culty, and more so to coarse-handed children, every facility 
 possible should be given. In Austria the hours are from 
 seven to nine in the morning ; then church half an hour ; then 
 the girls sew and knit from ten till twelve ; they return again 
 from one to three in the afternoon. Thursday is generally a 
 whole holiday, besides Sunday, and they have two half holidays 
 in the week, besides the great saints' days. The religious in- 
 struction is usually given in church or vestry, on Sundays and 
 high-days — none in school. The masters receive about <£17 a 
 year, and an apartment and some wood for firing, and they get 
 what they can by private teaching at leisure hours. The 
 children are taught the rudiments of drawing, and sing- 
 ing in parts. In some parts of Germany if a pupil 
 shows an early proficiency in drawing, he is forwarded to 
 another establishment to be instructed in the higher branches. 
 
 L 2 
 
148 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 The Sunday in Carlsbad, as elsewhere in Germany, is the 
 great day of amusement. As early as four o'clock the ser- 
 vices begin in the church, and are repeated at intervals till 
 midday. Quantities of the neighbouring people come into 
 town at seven oclock to hear Labitsky's entire band, which is 
 then united at the Theresien Brunn, and go afterwards to 
 high mass to hear the same band conjoined with the organ. 
 In the evening there is the best piece at the Theatre, and balls 
 in the various minor places of entertainment. The masses 
 begin at the very early hour named, in order to give the 
 domestic servants a possibility of attendance, and many avail 
 themselves of the opportunity. Why is our Church so unbend- 
 ing that our services can never be accommodated to the wants 
 of our people ? When was ever such a thing heard of as a 
 service at four o'clock in the morning ? and no shorter selection 
 from our liturgy is ever permitted under any pretence in our 
 churches, however suitable it may be to the requirements of 
 particular populations. Then comes another question : which 
 nation is most moral and most religious — that which goes to 
 church on a Sunday morning, and dedicates the rest of the day 
 
 c 
 
 to amusement; or that which goes to church, and endeavours to 
 employ the rest of the day in sobriety and meditation ? Such, at 
 least, are the respective Lord's-day theories on the Continent 
 and in England. 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 149 
 
 I am not disposed to rate the morality of the peasant class 
 in England at all more highly than that of the same class 
 abroad; but I think that this is more owing to their want of 
 education and instruction, and to the inactivity of many of our 
 country clergy, than to any defect of character, or peculiarity in 
 the observance of the Sabbath. Custom also sanctions so 
 many things, which in consequence become harmless in one 
 place, whilst they would be very hurtful in another, that it is 
 not easy directly to trace the effects of a habit such as this one 
 which so essentially differs from our own ; what influence it 
 may have had in that complete undermining of religious prin- 
 ciple which is now so loudly and universally deplored in this 
 land, it is also not easy to discover. I think, however, from 
 the conversations I have had with the common people, that they 
 seem to care little about the mass, and intensely for the ball 
 and the shooting match, and that serious reflection, such as I 
 understand it to be, is hardly compatible with the abandon 
 with which an Austrian or Bohemian of this class throws him 
 or her self into the dance. 
 
 A compulsory observance of the Sunday, it is clear, defeats 
 its own object; for it has been tried, and has failed. I much 
 question, however, whether any country is safe whose habits in 
 regard to work and amusement do not permit some stated time 
 to be set apart for reflection, meditation, and devotion; for 
 
150 CARLSBAD. [Chap. VI. 
 
 mere church- going without these accompaniments will soon 
 become a form. Any one who will hit upon a law, or institute 
 a custom, which shall insure a minimum of work to the labour- 
 ing class on a Sunday, will be amongst the greatest benefactors 
 to his country ; and this applies with double force to our own, 
 where there are no other holidays or periods of cessation from 
 toil. In Carlsbad many shops are shut on the Sunday, espe- 
 cially before twelve o'clock, but a good deal of work is done ; 
 and what strikes an Englishman most, is, to see buildings 
 going on pretty much as usual. 
 
 I must, however, cease moralizing; for I .have nearly ended 
 my story, as far as Carlsbad is concerned. I was not fortunate 
 in my attempt to improve my health. My original intention 
 was to have remained there just sufficiently long to prepare 
 for the baths of Frauzens brunn ; but I was persuaded by my 
 medical advisers to give the waters a more extended trial ; and, 
 instead of three weeks, I remained five. At the end of this 
 time, unequivocal symptoms of disagreement manifested them- 
 selves, and I became as nervous and uncomfortable as one 
 need desire. The weather also, which though previously capri- 
 cious, had been warm, became so rainy and cold that I was 
 compelled to abandon all idea of the baths ; and, early in Sep- 
 tember, I prepared for my return homewards. 
 
 It was quite remarkable, after the eclipse, how regularly the 
 
Chap. VI.] CARLSBAD. 151 
 
 thunder-clouds collected and discharged themselves once a 
 week. On one of these occasions, the rain fell in such quan- 
 tities in the higher regions of the Teple, that it all but over- 
 flowed its banks at Carlsbad, and brought back uncomfortable 
 reminiscences of a disaster in the season of 1821, when nearly 
 all the wooden booths on the Wiese were carried off in the 
 night, and an immense amount of property destroyed. At the 
 same period this year, waterspouts fell in the valleys of the 
 Mourg and Lichten, and carried away the bridges at Baden, and 
 for a time all communication was suspended between the town 
 and the gambling-rooms. A little further on the streams united, 
 and, rushing into the level and fertile plains of the Khine, 
 caused great devastation, and destroyed the railway in the 
 neighbourhood of Kastadt. No town would appear to stand in 
 so precarious a situation as Carlsbad ; thrice it has been all but 
 destroyed by fire, twice by cold water, and several alarming 
 symptoms of insubordination have been manifested by the 
 boiling water, which they endeavour to confine to the Sprudel. 
 One fine day, not many years ago, it spurted out from under 
 a grocer's counter, and bathed the entire stock of sugar 
 and figs. 
 
152 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 CHAPTEK VII. 
 
 THE RETURN. 
 
 There is something naturally depressing, after having made 
 an effort for the benefit of health, and after having buoyed 
 oneself up with hopes that, though delayed, the improvement 
 might still come at last, to discover that the attempt has been 
 a failure, and that, possibly, harm instead of good will be the 
 result, and that so one may be in a fair way to realize the 
 Cheltenham epitaph : " I was pretty well, I wished to be better, 
 and — Here I am." As the drowning man catches at a straw, so 
 I bethought myself of the water- doctor's last refuge, when all 
 his prognostics have failed : " True ! you are not better, you 
 are perhaps even a little worse ; but before long you will have 
 a crisis, and after that you will become sensible how much 
 good this visit has conferred upon you." Trying to ino- 
 culate myself with this idea — an attempt in which I need 
 hardly say I was but partially successful — I considered 
 by what route I would return home; and having a visit 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. 153 
 
 to pay at Frankfort, I decided upon taking the railway at 
 Hof, journeying to Wurzbourg, and so down the Maine, in 
 preference to the shorter in time, but less interesting route 
 back to Leipsig, and so on by Cassel. Finding that a German 
 lady of my acquaintance was going the same way, we agreed to 
 make common cause, and she suggested a conveyance to Hof — 
 a town just out of the Austrian dominions — of which I was 
 glad to avail myself, as I had never heard of it before. It is 
 styled a Separaat Wagen — -a sort of post-coach, not a post- 
 chaise. The exterior of this vehicle is not prepossessing, paint 
 and varnish being very scarce upon that portion; never- 
 theless, the inside is clean and comfortable, and it holds 
 four persons. It has two boot-like excrescences before and 
 behind, capable of containing a most liberal quantity of bag- 
 gage, for which the roof offers, if wanted, still further accom- 
 modation ; the front-boot is the seat of the driver. Travelling 
 is by post, with two or three horses, according to the require- 
 ments of the road; the payment is made at the starting- 
 place for the whole distance, drivers, everything, included. The 
 horses are ordered beforehand, and all you have to do is, to 
 give your waybill to the postmasters at the several stations, 
 who inscribe the time of your arrival and departure, and see 
 that the drivers do their duty. The usual pace is from six 
 
154 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 miles an hour, including stoppages, if the roads are pretty 
 good. 
 
 Having made the necessary arrangements, on the 7th of 
 September I bid adieu to the fountains and their attendant 
 nymphs, received my last bouquet, drank my last cup of choco- 
 late ; and Toni, Ida, and Babbi and Kesi, not forgetting my very 
 amiable old hostess, having wished me every imaginable happi- 
 ness, I set out for Frankfort in the manner before described. 
 
 There is certainly something very captivating in the ways of 
 German women ; what are forms of speech in other countries 
 are, or certainly seem to be, realities with them. They have a 
 manner of expressing their good wishes which gladdens one's 
 heart, and makes the impression that they do take an interest 
 in one's welfare ; how long they think about the absent I cannot 
 of course determine, but their manner, if they happen to meet 
 you again, might lead you to suppose that you had not 
 been forgotten in the interim. During my stay at Carlsbad 
 I listened to expressions of gratitude upon the part of one 
 of that sex and country, so full and deep, that I can hardly 
 render them in English ; and if the attitude and manner of 
 the speaker could only have been transmitted to canvas, it 
 would have immortalized the painter. One day at the 
 Panorama, wishing to give an order, I called to a woman 
 
Babbi, of the Panorama. 
 
 See page 154. 
 

 
 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. 155 
 
 I had been in the habit of seeing there, of a prepossessing, 
 though not absolutely handsome countenance; I asked for 
 the master, the Herr Knoll, but, finding he was out, said, 
 I suppose you are the Frau, and it will be all the same whether 
 I speak to you or him. She denied being the Hansfrau ; I 
 then suggested she must be a relation, because she was always 
 there. "No," she replied, "I am no relation, I am but 
 an orphan, who began by being a servant here; I was 
 then for some time very ill — I had not the smallest claim 
 upon these people — but they took care of me, and kept me 
 till I was well again, and I have been here ever since ; and 
 then," she added, the tears starting to her eyes, " there are 
 certain kind actions in life which beget a feeling of gratitude so 
 intense, that words fail to give any relief to the desire one has to 
 express the sense entertained of the obligation conferred ; all I 
 have left is to pray to the Almighty continually that he will 
 give the recompense I am incapable of bestowing, and enable 
 me to do my duty towards my benefactors as far as human in- 
 firmity will permit." 
 
 On the day in question, as I have said, in a somewhat 
 melancholy mood, I mounted the steps of the Separaat Wagen, 
 where the three other places were occupied by Die Baronin Von 
 
 , Nannette, and a little Cuban dog, called Corazon. My 
 
 companion being extremely agreeable, I was compelled to get 
 
156 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 rid of my spleen and low spirits. Our intention was to sleep 
 at Hof, some sixty miles distant ; this we were not, however, 
 destined to achieve, for, in the first place, owing to some mis- 
 take, our post-coach did not make its appearance till some time 
 after it was ordered ; and, in the next, we had scarcely pro- 
 ceeded five miles on our road towards Elbogen, the first stage, 
 when the hind axle broke in two, and we suddenly descended 
 to the ground. After extricating ourselves from the ruins as 
 well as we could, we left Nannette to look after the baggage, 
 and walked on to the post at Elbogen, where they treated us 
 very cavalierly, declared they would not supply us with another 
 similar vehicle, and that we must wait till a new axle was 
 made. After some angry remonstrances and threats of com- 
 plaint, we found ourselves obliged to submit, and passed three 
 hours and a half, more or less, in the open saloon of the Black 
 Horse, which overhangs the river, laying in a stock of patience 
 and Pumpernickel, for which the place is famous. It is one of 
 the most freqented places of resort near Carlsbad, is extremely 
 picturesque and pretty, and has two porcelain factories ; and if 
 one must break down in these parts, this is, unquestionably, the 
 most eligible spot. The strange thing is, that it should have such 
 a very dirty-looking inn, for if well cleaned, and nicely fitted 
 up, with its verandah saloon and fine view behind, it would be 
 the Star and Garter of Carlsbad. I wonder the China makers 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. 157 
 
 have not the spirit to do it; it would answer to them admirably, 
 for every one who makes a holiday to Elbogen makes a pur- 
 chase with them. The repast obtainable, however, is better 
 than appearances indicate. 
 
 Finding it impossible to reach Hof till very late indeed, we 
 determined to pass the evening with some friends at Franzens- 
 bad, and accordingly directed our steps thither. It took us about 
 six hours the following morning to reach Hof, and undergo a 
 certain but not very rigorous examination at the Bavarian Zoll- 
 verein frontier. The distance is not more than twenty-seven 
 miles, but the road is hilly, and much of it bad; a new one 
 is constructing — an unwonted sight in these railway days; 
 it lies over a portion of the Erzegebirge, and is agreeable 
 enough ; heath and wild flowers and fresh air in abundance. 
 
 On arriving at Hof, which is a good-looking town of some 
 importance, well situated upon the steep banks of a stream, we 
 had an instance of theundeviating adherence to routine displayed 
 by even the most subordinate of official personages in Germany. 
 Perceiving that we were about to pass the railway station at 
 the entrance of the town on our way to the post, I suggested to 
 the postilion the propriety of halting, in order that our baggage, 
 at least, might be deposited there. His reply was to the effect, 
 that it was his business to take us to the Koyal Poste, and no- 
 where else ; that once there we might proceed, if we liked, to an 
 
158 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 inn opposite, the master of which had an omnibus on purpose to 
 take passengers and their effects from the town to the station. 
 Suiting the action to the word, he drove on without waiting for 
 a rejoinder about a mile, where we found both the poste and the 
 inn. At this hotel I saw, for the first time in Germany, a couple 
 of Negroes, at the table d'hote, and my companion was seized 
 with such an uncontrollable fit of laughter at the novelty that 
 we were obliged to retire to a private apartment, our flight 
 being so rapid that I had not time to ascertain what brought 
 them there. We were very well served, and, in due time, the 
 promised omnibus took us back to the station. 
 
 I don't think that even Mr. Bickley himself — the dehonnaire 
 of the North Western Eailway — could surpass in politeness 
 and attention the officials of this Koyal Saxon Bavarian Line. 
 The carriages are admirable, the second class perfectly com- 
 fortable, and occupied by people with whom it is no hardship 
 to travel. The first class are in the form of a saloon, with a 
 table in the middle. It poured with rain nearly the whole way 
 to Bamberg, which was our destination, and which prevented 
 our enjoying the remarkably pretty country through which we 
 passed ; it did not, however, in the least prevent the same pour- 
 ing forth of passengers at each station as occurred between 
 Hamburgh and Leipzic, and the devourings of all sorts of 
 butterbrodts and strange meats, accompanied by potations of 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. 159 
 
 brilliant- coloured real Bavarian beer, in quantities which would 
 have astonished a drayman, those who were out bringing por- 
 tions to their wives and children within. 
 
 This malt liquor is by no means unagreeable to the taste, 
 and apparently much lighter than ours. Those who don't 
 object to a bit of cake, I strongly recommend to make trial of 
 some of the various forms in which it will be presented 
 to them, should they find themselves upon this line ; most of 
 them are good, and there is one sort twisted into many shapes, 
 like a mixture of Bath bun and fried potato strips, that is by 
 no means to be despised. I think its name is Spitz kraft, but 
 I am not quite sure. Why is it that we cannot make anything 
 of any sort in England that can be called light when compared 
 with a similar article on the Continent ? A delicate stomach, 
 to which a Banbury cake would be poison, can touch all 
 these things with perfect impunity. The same may be said 
 of our ragouts, our beer, our ale, our pudding, our fur- 
 niture, and almost every article we fabricate, whether of use 
 or luxury or ornament. If you want to make a trifling pre- 
 sent, such a thing is not to be found ; articles for this purpose 
 are strongly and expensively constructed, calculated to last 
 1000 years. I don't mean to cast any undue aspersions upon 
 the solidity of our insular contrivances, and a dyspeptic subject 
 is not, perhaps, a fair critic in matieres de bouche, but I still 
 
]60 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 think that a little dash of the spirit of the German Mehlspeise 
 and French Brioche would not be without its beneficial effects 
 upon our compounds and industry generally. We left Hof 
 about two, and arrived at Bamberg a little before seven. The 
 darkness of the evening, added to the lateness of the hour, 
 prevented our seeing more than a dim outline of the stately 
 town, spread out upon its hill side. We got apartments at 
 the Bamberger Hof. Here we had that species of supper, 
 established by English travel, called The mit machine; in other 
 words, tea with an urn. There is a curious fact connected 
 with this sort of meal, which seems unaccountable upon any 
 ordinary principles of value, but is not the less true. If you 
 have what is called a portion of tea, which is a teapot full 
 made for you, and a second with hot water, that you may suit 
 the strength to your fancy, the charge is next to nothing ; but 
 once light up your tea urn, and it is somewhat more than the 
 same luxury would cost you in England. Here it was so 
 exorbitant that my companion, with a very grave face, told the 
 host, that though it did not much signify to us, yet that he had 
 better be careful what he was doing, for though she was a 
 German, her companion was an Englishman, and an author of 
 considerable celebrity, who would probably give an account of 
 his travels, which would go through several editions ; and if this 
 circumstance was mentioned, it might be prejudicial to his 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. 1G1 
 
 interests, and get into the Handbook. The effect was ludi- 
 crously instantaneous, and the unintentional error -was at once 
 set to rights. I got up very early to revisit some of my 
 favourite spots in the town ; in fact, it was somewhat too early, 
 for when I inquired for my laquais de place, he was gone to 
 mass to prepare for his ordinary avocations, and could not be 
 had, so I wandered about with a second-rate one, less scrupulous 
 about his religious duties, and had a very fine morning for 
 my ramble. Much architectural beauty; the principal build- 
 ings well situated, overlooking one of the most fertile plains 
 in Germany, watered by a fine river, the view, bounded by 
 hills and forests, — combine to give Bamberg no mean ap- 
 pearance. I remembered it well from a visit ten years' pre- 
 viously, and it fully realized my old impressions. The situation 
 of the cathedral is admirable; and one feels sincere gratitude to 
 the abdicated monarch of these realms for the good sense, 
 the judgment and courage, with which he reformed, both here 
 and in every other portion of his dominions, the outrageous 
 violations of taste and decorum in the shapes of the bedizened 
 altars and disfigured images which he found in the ecclesiastical 
 edifices upon his accession to the throne. In the course of my 
 stroll I passed through the market, and inquired about the 
 potatoes. I found that here, as in Bohemia, though by no 
 means universal, the destruction had been extensive. 
 
 M 
 
IG2 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 There is a contract entered into for a railway from hence to 
 Frankfort, but it is not yet commenced ; so we were fain to avail 
 ourselves of the coupe of the diligence to proceed to Wurzbourg, 
 whence the steamers descend the Maine. I could hardly have 
 believed that ten years could have effected so little alteration — I 
 perhaps should say amelioration — in the posting of a country, as 
 that to which I was, perforce, reduced to-day. The Bavarian 
 posting was in all times remarkable for its badness ; but when 
 everything else, everywhere else, has been accelerated, one should 
 have thought some small spark of the electricity might have 
 penetrated even here. Not so, however : the roads are just as 
 bad — the pace as slow — the drag applied as often and as unne- 
 cessarily — the tunes on the horn as long winded — the stoppages 
 equally tedious as in a.d. 1840 — and even the old pipe was still 
 glued to the Schwager's lips. However, we left Bamberg about 
 eleven, did contrive to finish some sixty miles, and arrived at 
 the Kron Prinz, at Wurzbourg, about seven o'clock. That 
 hotel is not very recommendable ; the other, the Bussicher Hof, 
 is, I understand, better. 
 
 The following morning at five o'clock we embarked on board 
 the Konigin Marie, a beautiful steamboat, built from an Eng- 
 lish model, at Aschaffenburg. As the old bridge at that 
 place has such narrow arches that the boats cannot exceed a 
 certain width, it might have been expected that, for the naviga- 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. 163 
 
 tion of such a river, one of the arches at least might have been 
 widened, if it was considered too expensive to rebuild the bridge 
 entirely: but not so. There is — regal vagary — an attempt at a 
 facsimile of a Pompeian house actually in sight of this very 
 structure, which has cost more than would have accomplished 
 all that was wanted for this most desired and desirable object, 
 and one is tempted, upon seeing it, to wish that the useful had 
 had a little more access to the Eoyal mind here whilst in pursuit 
 of this classical beau ideal. The river Maine was more foggy 
 and cold this 6th of September, than when I embarked at 
 Mayence, in January last, upon the Khine. The weather, 
 however, improved later in the day, and we were able to enjoy 
 some of the striking points of view with which this river 
 abounds ; did not one know the Khine from Bonn to Mayence, 
 the Maine would have a great reputation. There is in both 
 much similarity of feature; but in scale and sternness the 
 Rhine is greatly superior, while in the softer and more pleasing 
 details of the scene, the Rhine can produce nothing more attrac- 
 tive than the approach to Aschaffenburg, Wertheim, and Mil- 
 senberg. The river was much swollen by the recent heavy 
 rains, and we were carried down upon its descending tide at 
 so rapid a rate, that at many of the stations we were obliged 
 to halt for some time till the advertised period of depar- 
 ture had arrived. In not a few places the water was over 
 
 m 2 
 
164 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 the banks, and the horses towing the barges up the stream were 
 floundering in it. It appeared a very dangerous operation, 
 considering the rapidity and depth of the river, and must be, 
 in point of labour and tediousness, worse than warping a 
 frigate. A lesson for an impatient nature ! 
 
 What an odd thing it is that at least nineteen-twentieths 
 of mankind delight in proceeding with extreme speed what- 
 ever may be the business, or pleasure, or misfortunes of the 
 hour, not reflecting that they are simply passing one of those 
 days which make up the complement of their existence, and 
 that the question they will wish to be able to answer 
 satisfactorily one day, will be, not whether it was passed in 
 rapid locomotion, but whether it was passed wisely and well. 
 Yet, after all, who can resist the exhilaration of a fast steamer 
 on a fine river on a sunny day ? It is infectious, a providential 
 arrangement to get rid of the cares of life ; and yet I saw one 
 here who was wholly insensible to the charm. 
 
 We had not many passengers on board at first, but at Lauer 
 we had a large accession of company returning from Kissingen, 
 almost entirely English, and some curious specimens. My com- 
 panion and I made acquaintance with two German women, who 
 had travelled with us from Bamberg ; the elder had depicted 
 upon her countenance the most fearful expression of woe I ever 
 beheld; she had just lost the last of four children, and was 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. J 65 
 
 under the impression not only that she was fated herself, but 
 that she was a species of Ahnfrau. The other, a younger 
 woman, though not a relation, watched her with the affec- 
 tionate solicitude of her race, and seemed anxiously to try 
 and catch some slight alteration in the fixed and changeless 
 visage before her. 
 
 Perceiving that this friend had with her one of the Hun- 
 garian Zitterns, we begged her to play a little upon it. The 
 plaintive and deeply-touching tones of this musical instrument 
 must be heard to be imagined. I had never seen one before, 
 and I am sure there are moments in one's life when its chords 
 would have all the effects which Dryden attributes to the lyre 
 of Timotheus. I don't recollect being ever more stirred. 
 Suddenly the thought struck me, that this could not fail, for 
 the moment at least, to soothe the broken heart. I looked up 
 full of hope at the idea ; but my glance fell at once before the 
 frigid and impassive expression of despair which I encoun- 
 tered. My kindhearted companion laboured also with her 
 friend, when she found what the case was, to console this poor 
 woman, and we afterwards accidentally learned not without 
 some success. 
 
 As the day wore on it became beautiful, and nothing was 
 left to desire for the light and shade of the scenery, as we 
 
166 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 passed in safety, with lowered funnel, under the antique "bridge 
 of Aschaffenburg. Before arriving there, we took in a peasant, 
 with his wife and many children, just starting on their way to 
 California, with all their implements and furniture. They were 
 not forced to fly their land from absolute poverty ; but they 
 thought their prospects better in the modern Eldorado. The 
 poor little children excited great sympathy amongst the idlers, 
 like myself, on board, and many were the speculations as to 
 their future adventures and destinies. I don't suppose they 
 will ever again receive so much notice, or so many cakes and 
 kreuzers, as they did on this day. How mysterious and admi- 
 rable are the ways of Providence, to draw away population 
 from lands where it has become too dense for general comfort, 
 either owing to faulty laws, bad institutions 3 or some other 
 secondary cause! He casteth forth his gold, like morsels; who 
 is able to abide the magnetic influence ? I firmly believe 
 that the regeneration of Ireland could never have been 
 effected but by the wonderful emigration that we now see 
 going on. Some people are alarmed at it, and I don't profess to 
 be wiser than my fellows ; but I confess that, after the entire 
 failure of Lord George Hill and other benevolent and ener- 
 getic individuals of the same stamp, despair began to fill my 
 mind as to the fortune of that island, and, of course, sooner or 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. 167 
 
 later, of our own ; for we cannot, if we would, disconnect our- 
 selves. Horace pronounces a great moral truth, when, instruct- 
 ing his poet, he says — 
 
 " Nee Deus intersit nisi dignus vindice nodus." 
 
 Thus, perhaps, we are witnessing the gracious ways of a 
 Divine Kuler towards a nation amongst whom ten righteous are 
 yet to be found, when the wisest and best are incapable of 
 devising a counsel to remedy the evil. " Every man," exclaims 
 Kanke, " ought to believe that his country is immortal;" and 
 he might have added, should act as if its destinies depended 
 upon his own individual exertion. I have that faith in the 
 highest degree, so long as there are many amongst us who shall 
 believe and try, as far as human infirmity will permit them, to 
 act upon their belief, that " righteousness exalteth a nation, 
 but sin is a reproach to any people." 
 
 How I have wandered again ! I shall never arrive at my 
 destination. However, at half-past five, a fine clear glowing 
 evening saw us moored to the landing-place of that fine old 
 town of Frankfort, with its massive spires and tower frowning 
 over the flood that washes its thriving quays. These were new 
 thronged with a busy crowd, for the fair was at its height; 
 so busy, that, except those who were upon the watch to reap 
 some benefit, in the shape of a job from the passengers, little 
 
168 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 attention was paid to our arrival. The living contents of the 
 Konigin were soon dispersed on shore. I sent away my goods 
 in a fiacre to the hospitable mansion to which I was bound ; 
 and I then turned all my attention to my fair companion, who 
 was about to encounter a difficulty of no common magnitude, 
 namely, that of finding a lodging during fair- time. I gave my 
 arm, Nannette led Corazon in a string, who amused himself by 
 running under our legs and those of every one we met, and 
 greatly retarded our operations; the porter followed with a truck, 
 and we commenced our pilgrimage. The Englische, Eussiche, 
 Koemische, Pariser, and Schwann were essayed in vain — a bad 
 apartment at the Englische, which we found vacant, and rejected, 
 having been engaged when we returned to take it. This be- 
 tokened that the six or seven hundred best hotel rooms in Frank- 
 fort were already occupied. At length, we began to think of a 
 bivouac — rather an unpleasant predicament for a lady — when 
 we made a last attempt at the Weidenbusch, and secured the 
 only two remaining beds they had to dispose of — fortunately, a 
 tolerable apartment. And thus this day's anxieties were 
 set at rest. I knew nothing previously of this hotel; but 
 I can strongly recommend it, even to an unprotected female, 
 for great cleanliness and comfort, and, what I never yet could 
 obtain at the Kussie, civil and attentive service. 
 
 On Saturday, the 6th, I arrived at Frankfort. On the 16th 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. 169 
 
 I left it, and during the whole of that time the weather was as 
 overcast and cold as it was clear and warm in England, and 
 which most providentially gave us that excellent harvest which 
 has not been by any means universal on the Continent. The 
 corn harvest in Germany, upon the whole, I take to have been 
 of average abundance, but not more. The potatoes have 
 suffered in about the same degree as our own. The prog- 
 nostics of the vintage at this time were of a very sombre tone, 
 and the cold had so retarded it that in many places it was 
 doubtful if the grapes would ripen at all. During my stay at 
 Frankfort, I was so well tended that I recovered my strength 
 and spirits much ; and I was somewhat consoled by a visit we 
 paid to that most fashionable gambling establishment and 
 watering-place, Homburg, where I saw some of my friends, 
 and more I saw elsewhere who had been there, who I thought 
 looked quite as ill and miserable as I did. 
 
 I don't know how I should relish having such a fatherland 
 as Homburg; but the spectacle of a state entirely supported by 
 the proceeds of the gambling- table, i. e., by taxes taken from 
 the contributors in a manner the most injurious to their moral 
 and physical welfare, is not edifying. Such is actually the case 
 here. The expenses of the Landgrave and his state are 
 entirely defrayed by the amount paid for the privilege by the 
 owners of these gaming-tables. Across this table the pro- 
 
170 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 tectionist and free-trader may shake hands, for the financial 
 scheme is so exquisitely devised that, whilst trade is per- 
 fectly free, the principal portion of the revenue is contributed 
 by the foreigner. On the demise of the present sovereign of 
 roulette and rouge et noir, the territories pass, I think, to 
 Hesse Darmstadt; let us hope he may find another method of 
 raising his revenues. No Englishman should fail to visit the 
 Langravian Residenz ; he will find much to interest him, espe- 
 cially should he know something of the story of the court and 
 family of George III. I was quite sorry to leave it; the 
 gardens and views are by no means devoid of beauty, and the 
 old seneschal is a character that takes one back to old times. 
 It is a misnamed Residenz — for no one resides there, but, though 
 almost uninhabited, it is in perfect preservation. 
 
 The fair lasted all the time I was at Frankfort, about ten 
 days, and appeared to me crowded enough whenever I visited 
 it ; but I am informed that the levelling power of steam has 
 acted upon the great German fairs, as upon everything else, and 
 that the glories of even this renowned gathering are fading away. 
 They still, however, congregate curious specimens of wares, 
 made in very out-of-the-way places, together with their con- 
 trivers, whose appearance is not less outlandish. A troop of 
 equestrians is always a standing dish at these solemnities, and 
 it seems to be a very thriving and successful branch of in- 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. J 71 
 
 dustry; formerly, a good company of singers and actors was 
 also considered a sine qua non; but the heels seem to be in the 
 ascendant over the heads, and upon this occasion the Circus 
 was all the fashion. 
 
 On the 16th I quitted the seat of the Germanic Diet for 
 England. I believe there is nothing to prevent a traveller 
 starting in the forenoon of one day from Frankfort, and 
 arriving in London the following evening, travelling all night, 
 if proper regulations were made, and the journey might be 
 performed by either Antwerp, Ostend, or Calais, though, 
 of course, most surely, by the short sea passage. Such, 
 however, are the jealousies existing between the various 
 countries to whom the different routes belong, that they 
 decline accommodating each other; and the result is, that, 
 unless by a fortunate accident, the passenger will have to pass 
 two nights on the way. But he has a great choice of locality ; 
 he may pass them either at Cologne, at Calais, at Ostend, in 
 the railway, on the river, or on the German Ocean. These are 
 selected according to the various fancies of the wayfarers ; 
 but the true Briton chafes when all necessary exertion is not 
 made to bring him as speedily, and safely, and as comfortably 
 as possible to his destination, and he longs to let his injuries 
 overflow into the sympathizing columns of the Times. I 
 wonder if foreigners ever read them. 
 
172 THE RETURN. [Chap. VII. 
 
 My journey over that novel route, via Cologne, Calais, and 
 Dover, offers no incident worthy of relation. I had just light 
 enough upon my arrival in the capital of Rhenish Prussia to 
 examine and note the progress of its architectural wonder, and 
 to learn its present prospects. The King of Prussia contributes 
 50,000 thalers yearly. What would Exeter Hall think of a 
 Protestant King and government contributing to such a work ? 
 The same amount is given by the municipality, and nearly the 
 like from amongst the faithful in other lands. The ex-King of 
 Bavaria has been a munificent donor, and the splendid 
 stained-glass windows which he caused to be executed under 
 his own superintendence at Munich are already in their places. 
 The above sum enables them to keep about one hundred men 
 constantly employed, and at this rate they reckon the cathedral 
 may be completed in thirty-five years. The stone is a fine 
 lime-stone from Holland. It must always be of a height dis- 
 proportioned to its length ; but it is a truly magnificent con- 
 ception of the unknown architect. 
 
 On the 17th I traversed Belgium and arrived at Calais, and 
 on the 18th, almost before day broke, I was again on the 
 shores of our Island Home. 
 
Chap. VII.] THE RETURN. J 73 
 
 Header ! it is now time that I should take leave of thee, if 
 thou hast accompanied me so far. I have declared to thee 
 why I went, where I went, and what I thought about ; and 
 if so much egotism has not disgusted thee — still more if I have 
 enabled thee to pass a leisure hour agreeably, or to devise a 
 better project than I did for thy health or recreation — think 
 kindly of the Author, who now bids thee farewell. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 G. Woodfall and Son, Printers, AngeJ Court, Skinner Street, London. 
 

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 praise." — Literary Gazette. 
 
 " The style of Sir Francis is diffuse and minute. He enumerates as often as he 
 describes, and that in the manner of Dickens and his imitators — if they, indeed, have 
 not imitated the " Gallop " and the " Bubbles." The book, however, is very curious, 
 readable, and in some sense informing ; but perhaps its most remarkable feature is, how 
 much may be seen in Paris in a short time by a man who resolutely sets about it." — 
 Spectator. 
 
 MRS. BRAY. 
 
 life of Cljonras gfafok, %l%. 
 
 WITH PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY EXCRAVIXG.S FROM HIS CHIEF WORKS, PB1NTED IN A NOVEL STYLE OF ART. 
 
 With Portrait Fcap. 4to. 21s. 
 
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 life was in his works ; and they have been rendered with most delicate care — there 
 being something in the nature of Stothard's genius which lent itself, with more than 
 ordinary adapt ability, to this form of presentment." — Athencmm. 
 
MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 15 
 
 SIE CHAELES LYELL. 
 
 % Utoiuil of ^lenmttarjj §tala^. 
 
 OR, THE ANCIENT CHANGES OF THE EARTH AND ITS INHABITANTS, 
 ILLUSTRATED BY ITS GEOLOGICAL MONUMENTS. 
 
 Fourth Edition, Revised and Enlarged. Svo. 12.?. 
 
 In consequence of the rapid sale of the last edition (ofw7iic7i 2000 copies were printed 
 in January last), another has been called for. Even in this short interval, many new 
 facts of unusual importance in palaeontology have come to light, or have been verified 
 for the first time. To render this additional information accessible to the purchasers 
 of the former, the preface to this edition is printed separately. Price 6d. 
 
 EEV. JOHN PENEOSE, M.A. 
 
 $taam for |fo«se|oIbs; 
 
 BEING FIFTY-FOUR SERMONS WRITTEN FOR SUNDAY READING. 
 
 Svo. 10s. 6d. 
 
 LUIGI-CABLO FABINI. 
 
 listers of % Ikirait Bkttl tsis— so, 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE ITALIAN. 
 
 BY THE EIGHT HON. W. E. GLADSTONE, M.P. 
 
 2 Vols. Svo. 24s. 
 
 CHAELES BABBAGE, ESQ. 
 
 %\t €%pBitm fif 1851. 
 
 OR, VIEWS OF THE INDUSTRY, THE SCIENCE, AND THE GOVERNMENT OF ENGLAND. 
 Second Edition, -with Additions. 8vo. 7s. Gd. 
 
1 <> MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 
 
 GEN. SIR HOWARD DOUGLAS, G.C.B. 
 
 % treatise on $wjpto fjta&al (iramerg. 
 
 FOR THE USE OF OFFICERS AND TRAINING OF SEAMEN GUNNERS. 
 DEDICATED BY SPECIAL PERMISSION TO THE LOEDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. 
 
 Third Edition, revised. "With numerous Plates. 8vo. 21s. 
 
 " The work of Sir Howard Douglas has not only stood its ground for thirty years 
 and more, but (harder task) has operated on the Admiralty. The new edition contains 
 an account of all the improvements that have taken place in the theory and practice 
 of naval gunnery since the appearance of its predecessor." — Spectator. 
 
 WILLIAM SMITH, LL.D. 
 
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 CM1 
 
 BY VARIOUS "WRITERS. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED "WITH COINS, PLANS OF CITIES, DISTRICTS, AND BATTLES. 
 
 Medium Svo. Part I. 4s. 
 
 Although, for the sake of uniformity, it is called a Dictionary of Greek and Roman 
 Geography, it will be in reality a Dictionary of Ancient Geography, including even 
 Scriptural Names. At present there does not exist, in the English or even in the 
 German languages, any work on Ancient Geography sufficiently comprehensive and 
 accurate to satisfy the demands of modern scholarship. And yet there are few subjects 
 connected with antiquity for which we have such ample materials. The discoveries of 
 modern travellers, as well as the researches of modern scholars, have, within the last 
 few years, added greatly to our knowledge of Ancient Geography ; and it will be the 
 aim of the Editor to present, in the present work, the results of their labours in this 
 important branch of Classical Antifmity. 
 
 The work will, of course, not be confined to a barren description of the geography of 
 countries, and of the sites of places ; but it will also include an accouut of the political 
 history both of countries and of cities. An attempt will likewise be made to trace, as 
 far as possible, the history of the more important buildings of the cities, and to give an 
 account of their present condition wherever they still exist. 
 
 .*** To appear in Quarterly Parts, and to form One Volume. 
 
 SIR CHARLES BELL'S BRIDGEWATER TREATISE. 
 
 — ♦ — ■ 
 
 <b\)t IHccIjanisiit autr Cbnbotuments of % gaifo, 
 
 AS EVINCING DESIGN. 
 A New Edition. "With many Woodcuts. Post 8vo. It. 6J. 
 
MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 17 
 
 MAJOE-GENEEAL CATHCAET. 
 
 l&mA si % Mm m ^mm anir §txmxq 
 
 of 1813—14. 
 
 With Plans. 8vo. 14*. 
 
 " We owe Col. Cathcart's solid and unpretending volume a notice. * * *— Sound, 
 concise, aud pregnant. It seems to us to be equally valuable for its facts and its com- 
 mentaries." — Quarterly Review. 
 
 WILLIAM JOHNSTON", ESQ. 
 
 POLITICAL, SOCIAL, AND INDUSTRIAL. 
 
 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 18*. 
 
 " C'est un ouvrage plein de renseignements, full of information, comme disent les 
 Anglais, et ces sortes de publications excitent, avec raison, une curiosite fort vive, 
 aujourd'hui que les nations reconnaissent avec le sage la necessite de se connaitre 
 soi-memes, et aussi de bien connaitre les autres, ne fut-ce que pour le mieux juger par 
 comparaison." — V Illustration. 
 
 SIE JAMES EMEESON TENNENT. 
 
 Cljrktkrafjj in €qk\x, 
 
 ITS INTRODUCTION AND PROGRESS UNDER THE PORTUGUESE, DUTCH, BRITISH, 
 AND AMERICAN MISSIONS. 
 
 With Illustrations. 8vo. 14s. 
 
 " Though it is now nearly a year since this work issued from the press, we suspect 
 it is by no means so extensively known as it ought to be. It is seldom that we have a 
 governor in any of our colonies or dependencies turning his attention to the history and 
 progress of missions. Sir Emerson Tennent has been long and favourably known to 
 the Christian public, as taking a deep interest in all educational and religious 
 movements which have for their object the good of the people. His sketches of 
 the characteristics of Buddhism and Brahmanism are among the best of the kind we 
 ever recollect having seen. The interest which he seems to have taken in the cause 
 of missions during his stay on the island contrasts very favourably with the conduct of 
 most other government agents. The clear statement of the difficulties with which the 
 missionaries have to contend, and the confident hope expressed of final success, should 
 make the churches at home more patient towards their missionaries, and stir them up 
 to redoubled exertions. The volume will be found one of the most instructive and 
 interesting that has issued for a long time from the English press." — Edinburgh Witness. 
 
18 MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 
 
 HOK^ ^EGYTTIAC^E. 
 
 %\t <%0ita%jj of %\mmi <%pi 
 
 DISCOVERED FROM ASTRONOMICAL AND HIEROGLYPHIC RECORDS UPON ITS MONUMENTS. 
 
 BY REGINALD STUAET POOLE, ESQ. 
 
 With Plates. 8vo. 10*. 63. 
 
 AUSTEN H. LAYAKD, ESQ. 
 
 % Joprlar %mmt of \p Jfirai (Kiptbition to ItkMj- 
 
 ARRANGED BY HIMSELF FOR POPULAR CIRCULATION. 
 
 With Numerous Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 5s. 
 
 " This interesting volume forms a portion of the series of ' Murray's Reading for the 
 Rail.' It is an abridgment, by the author himself, of his larger work, ' Nineveh and 
 its Remains.' Mr. Layard was induced to undertake this publication on account of 
 the great curiosity excited by his discoveries at Nineveh, and the great eagerness 
 evinced by the public to peruse an authentic account of them. The small edition now 
 published seems calculated to supply what was wanted ; and its cheapness will ensure 
 for it a very extensive circulation. In this abridgment the author has omitted the 
 second part of the larger work, and, by introducing the principal biblical and historical 
 illustrations into the narrative, he has rendered it more agreeable to the general reader." 
 — Morning Herald* 
 
 " We have in this volume an admirable epitome of the author's valuable work ' On 
 Nineveh and its Remains ;' the abridgment being made by Mr. Layard himself. The 
 most attractive of the original materials are carefully digested, whilst the results of his 
 laborious researches are brought down to the very latest dates." — Globe. 
 
 " A charming volume, to which we may safely promise a circulation without limit, 
 and as unbounded popularity. The great feature of the abridgment is the introduction 
 of the principal biblical and historical illustrations (forming a separate section of the 
 original work) into the narrative, which, without sacrificing any matter of importance, 
 makes the story more compact, useful, and indeed complete, in its abridgment than it 
 was in its original form. In Ins brief preface Mr. Layard remarks that the more 
 recent discoveries, and the contents of the inscriptions, as far as they have been 
 satisfactorily deciphered, have confirmed nearly all the opinions first expressed by him 
 on the subject. There was no necessity, therefore, to introduce a change in any 
 material point into the abridgment. He is still disposed to believe that all the ruins 
 explored represent the site of Ancient Nineveh ; and, while still assigning the later 
 monuments to the kings mentioned in Scripture, he continues to feel convinced that a 
 considerable period had elapsed between their foundation and the erection of the older 
 palaces of Nimroud. Mr. Layard differs from some other antiquarians, however, in 
 thinking that the state of the inscriptions by no means as yet authorises the use of any 
 actual names for the earlier kings mentioned in them."' — Examiner. 
 
 
MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 19 
 
 AUTHOE OF"PADDIANA." 
 
 % Cransporf Itopge to % Paarifo, 
 
 THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE, AND ST. HELENA. 
 Post 8vo. 9s. 6d. 
 
 JAMES FEKGUSSON, ESQ. 
 
 AN ESSAY ON ANCIENT ASSYRIAN AND PERSIAN ARCHITECTURE. 
 With Woodcuts. 8vo. 16s. 
 
 This volume is written for the purpose of elucidating the ancient Architecture ot 
 Western Asia, especially to render intelligible the remarkable buildings of Nineveh, so 
 unexpectedly revealed by recent discoveries ; and by comparing them with those of 
 Babylon, Jerusalem, Persepolis, and Modern Persia, to restore, as far as possible, the 
 history of an art long lost to the world. 
 
 feags from % "Crates." 
 
 SELECTION FROM THE LITERARY PAPERS WHICH HAVE APPEARED IN 
 THE " TIMES " NEWSPAPER. 
 
 REPRINTED FOR THE RAIL BY PERMISSION OP THE PROPRIETORS. 
 
 Second Edition. Fcap. 8vo. 4s. 
 
 Contents : — 
 
 Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton. 
 Railway Novels. 
 Louis Philippe and his Family. 
 Drama of the French Revolution. 
 Howard the Philanthropist. 
 Lord Holland's Reminiscences. 
 
 Robert Southey. 
 
 Dean Swift — Stella and Vanessa. 
 
 Coleridge and Southey, by Cottle. 
 
 John Keats. 
 
 Grote's History of Greece. 
 
 " Light without levity, grave without gloom, its contents are precisely such as one 
 would select for ' railway reading ; ' well calculated to enlist attention, and to convey 
 equal pleasure and profit to the mind of the reader. The subjects are varied, and 
 each and all are dealt with transcendent ability. The mere fact of their having been 
 permitted to occupy whole columns of the Times speaks volumes as to their recognised 
 sterling worth. Their prevailing tone is that of a calm and measured dignity, befitting 
 one who, from ' the loop-holes of retreat,' looks out upon the waning world* and gives 
 to his fellow man their meed of censure or of praise, according as their characters or 
 deeds present themselves, or pass in array before him. We are sure that the writer's 
 general sentiments will find a ready response in the heart of every right-thinking and 
 right-feeling reader. His powers will be appreciated even by the most cursory." — 
 Shrewsbury Journal. 
 
20 
 
 MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 
 
 LAVENGRO. 
 
 Cjtt j&jjirlar, % dgpgjr, rah % jprfoi. 
 
 By the Author of « The Bible in Spain." 
 
 With Portrait. 3 Vols. Post 8vo. 30s. 
 
 THE LEXINGTON PAPERS. 
 
 Bam %ttamt td % dtkrte d f ratam $ Drama 
 
 LN THE 17th CENTURY. 
 
 BY THE HON. H. MANNERS SUTTON. 
 
 8vo. 14*. 
 
 CAPTAIN J. D. CUNNINGHAM. 
 
 % pstraj 0f % j&fcja, 
 
 FROM THE ORIGIN OF THE NATION TO THE BATTLES OF THE SUTLEJ. 
 Second Edition, with a Memoir of the Author. Maps, 8vo. 15s. 
 
 BY AUTHORITY. 
 
 fotmral fif % $kpl iwpgjM Satiety. 
 
 VOL. XXI. PART I. 
 
 CONTENTS : 
 
 Progress of Geography. 
 
 Climatology of the Caucasus. By Professor 
 
 H. Abich. 
 Louisiade andNew Guinea. By J.M'Gillivray. 
 South African Lake "Ngami." By BeV. D. 
 
 Liyingston. 
 
 MlUDLE I8LAND OF NEW ZEALAND. By CAP!. 
 
 Stokes, R.N. 
 Aneroid Barometer. By Col. Yorke. 
 Aneroid for Surveying in India. By Dr. Buist. 
 
 South Sea Islands. By Capt. J. E. Ersktne, 
 
 K.N. 
 Mission to Central Africa. By Dr. Barth. 
 Southern Peru. By W. Bollaert. 
 
 KuMARN AND GURHWAL. By CAPT. R. StRACHEY. 
 
 Railway across North America. By Asa 
 
 Whitney. 
 Central America Canal. By A. S. Oersted. 
 Vocabulary of the Yule Lndians. By Dr. 
 
 Cullen. 
 
 With Maps. 8vo. 10*. 
 
ME. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 21 
 
 ^ESOP FOR THE PEOPLE.— BEST AND CHEAPEST EDITION. 
 
 JfaMte d %mp 
 
 A NEW VERSION, CHIEFLY FROM THE ORIGINAL GREEK. 
 
 BY EEY. THOMAS JAMES, M.A., 
 
 Vicar of Sibbertoft, and Examining Chaplain to the Bishop of Bath and Wells. 
 With 100 Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 2s. Gd. 
 " This pretty and handy volume will be everybody's JEsop." — Examiner. 
 
 NIMROD. 
 
 Cjft <%a— % |kair— mtir \\t Carl 
 
 REPRINTED FROM THE "QUARTERLY REVIEW." 
 Woodcuts. 3 Parts. Fcap.Svo. 3s. Gd. 
 
 THE SAXON IN IRELAND, 
 
 JjtomMto si m <%Iisjrawit in % ffl&t&t of Ireland 
 
 IN SEARCH OF A SETTLEMENT. 
 Second Edition. With Map. Post 8to. 9s. Gd. 
 
 JOHN EDWARD TAYLOR. 
 
 Uicjradi &njjtfo, €mmkxiis as a ^Jilosopjit Jwt 
 
 WITH TRANSLATIONS. 
 
 Second Edition. Post 8vo. 5s. 
 
22 MR. MURRAY'S LIST OF NEW WORKS. 
 
 THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON. 
 
 Biktiana from % IMingta gtspatcjaj. 
 
 BY THE LATE COLONEL GURWOOD, C.B. 
 
 INTENDED AS A CONVENIENT MANUAL FOR EVERY OFFICER. 
 
 New and Cheaper Edition, with Index. One Volume. 8vo. 18s. 
 
 " It would be idle at this time of day to dilate on the treasure our country possesses 
 in the Duke of Wellington's Despatches — or the wisdom which sanctioned their 
 publication in the lifetime of their illustrious author." — Quarterly Review. 
 
 THE. HON EDMUND PHIPPS. 
 
 max of |loforf IJfomer Mmk 
 
 WITH HIS POLITICAL AND LITERARY CORRESPONDENCE, DIARIES, AND REMAINS. 
 
 With Portrait. 2 vols. Svo. 28*. 
 
 " By far the most valuable portions of Mr. Ward's diary are its illustrations of the 
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 gives us an insight into his business habits, his method of arguing public questions, 
 his ready resource and never-tiring energy, which possesses occasionally a striking 
 interest." — Examiner. 
 
 KUGLEE'S ILLUSTRATED HANDBOOK. 
 
 ®jjt Btlfpak of j) rating m ftalg. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN. 
 
 EDITED WITH NOTES BY SIR CHARLES EASTLAE^, P.R.A. 
 
 A New Edition. With 100 Woodcuts. 2 Vols. Post 8vo. 24s. 
 
 EDWARD VERNON HARCOURT, ESQ. 
 
 % Skit]} of Pakim 
 
 CONTAINING INFORMATION FOR THE TRAVELLER OR INVALID VISITING THE ISLAND 
 With Maps and Woodcuts. Post Svo. 8*. Cd. 
 
MURRAY'S READING FOR THE RAIL. 
 
 OR, CHEAP BOOKS IN LARGE READABLE TYPE, 
 
 SUITED FOR ALL CLASSES OF READERS — FOR VARIOUS TASTES — AND FOR OLD AND 
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 To appear at short intervals, varying in size and price, 
 
 WorTcs already Published ; — 
 ESSAYS FROM " THE TIMES ; " being a Selection from the 
 
 Literary Papers "which hare appeared in that Journal. Fcap. 8vo. 4s. 
 
 NIMROD ON THE CHACE. An Essay, reprinted from the " Quar- 
 
 terly Review ; " and illustrated -with "Woodcuts by Alken. Fcap. 8vo. 1*. 
 
 LORD MAHON'S FORTY-FIVE ; or a Narrative of the Rebellion in 
 
 Scotland in 1745. Post Svo. 3s. 
 
 LAYARD'S OWN NARRATIVE OF HIS DISCOVERIES AT 
 
 NINEVEH. Arranged by himself for popular circulation, with Woodcuts. Post Svo. 5s. 
 
 NIMROD ON THE ROAD. An Essay, reprinted from the " Quar- 
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 JESOP'S FABLES. A New Version. By Rev. THOMAS JAMES. 
 
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 NIMROD ON THE TURF. An Essay, reprinted from the " Quar- 
 
 terly Review; " and illustrated with Woodcuts by Alken. Fcap. 8vo. Is. 6d. 
 
 To le followed by : — 
 MUSIC AND DRESS. Two Essays. By a LADY. Fcap. 8vo. 
 
 DEEDS OF NAVAL DARING; or, Anecdotes of the British Navy. 
 
 Fcap. 8vo. 
 
 BEES AND FLOWERS. Two Essays, reprinted from the " Quarterly 
 
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 MURRAY'S READING FOR THE RAIL 
 
 will contain works of sound information and innocent amusement, suited not only for 
 railway trayelleks, but adapted for the shelves of every library. 
 
 [See next page. 
 
24 MURRAY'S READING FOR THE RAIL. 
 
 OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. 
 
 ■¥ 
 
 " A series of cheap and healthy publications, to supplant the deleterious mixtures sold 
 too frequently from the want of more wholesome food.'' — Athenamm. 
 
 " Mr. Murray starts with one great advantage. Cheap novels, compressing some five 
 volumes of French nonsense into one small duodecimo, must necessarily be in small 
 print and on bad paper. This bothers most eyes and wears many out. The same 
 objection applies to many even of the really useful books sold at railway stations. 
 Mr. Murray, whose subjects do not require the same compression, gives a good readable 
 type, quite large enough for ordinary eyes, even in express trains. For railway reading 
 this is really the chief consideration of all."— Atlas. 
 
 " Mr. Murray has deserved well at the hands of the travelling community, as well as 
 at those of the public at large." — Observer. 
 
 " Encouraged by the brilliant success attendant upon many recent adventures in the 
 way of supplying the masses with cheap and standard literature, Mr. Murray has 
 commenced the issue of a new series, destined, we are satisfied, to occupy a very 
 distinguished position among this remarkable class of periodicals." — Sun. 
 
 " We heartily wish this new undertaking the success which the enterprising publisher 
 merits, and commend these productions to the railway and reading public." — Morning 
 Herald. 
 
 " We hail Murray's ' Reading for the Rail,' with much pleasure, as one of the many 
 efforts now making to supply the public with books at once cheap and good. This is 
 the only legitimate means by which literature that is cheap and worthless, or positively 
 mischievous, can be fairly and efficiently put down. ,, — Economist. 
 
 " We recognise, both in its contents, and in the spirit in which, as the first of a 
 contemplated series of ' Readings for the Rail,' it has been launched by Mr. Murray, 
 the highminded and rightminded effort of a healthful spirit to leave its impress on the 
 age in which we live. And we tender to the publisher our cordial and earnest thanks 
 for so valuable an addition to our current readings, — we ought to have said for so 
 wholesome a substitute for the poisonous trash which obtrudes itself at nearly every 
 railway station of the metropolis upon the notice of the young and the unthinking.'" 
 — Bath Herald. 
 
 " It is to supply a class of books suited to modern travel, that Mr. Murray comes 
 forward as the " schoolmaster " of the Rail. He desires to put into the hands of 
 travellers, works that shall mingle ' pleasure with instruction,' or ' information,' if the 
 reader prefers the phrase." — Shrewsbury Journal. 
 
 " An able article on ' Literature for the Rail,' was lately inserted in the ' Times,' and 
 natui-ally attracted general observation. The writer recommended as an effectual 
 means for expelling from the book-stalls of the stations trashy and licentious publica- i 
 tions, the issue of works of acknowledged merit at a low price ; and the argumentum 
 ad hominem was applied to Mr. Murray, by way of inducing that publisher to do for the 
 rail what he had done for other classes of readers by issue of his popular ' Home and 
 Colonial Library.' This publication is the response to this appeal." — Worcester Journal. 
 
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