II S' 
 
 
 w 
 
 FOR 
 
 OPERATORS 
 
 OP 
 
 O". :B. ja^IXSLEBOXT'S 
 
 iEB efra i*c?3 
 
 IP^PlLil 
 
 FAMILY KNITTING MACHINE 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 
 BAPTIST k TAYLOB, STEAM JOB PRINTERS, 
 
 "Sun Building," cor. Fulton and Nassau Sts. 
 
 1861. 
 
 ii- 
 
X >» 
 
 \ -i 
 
I N S T E U C T I ]Sr S 
 
 FOR 
 
 OPERA.TOIIS 
 
 F 
 
 J. B. AIKEN'S 
 
 FAMILY MITTING MACHINE. 
 
 
 EXPLAINING THE MANl^ER IN WHICH THE GOODS ARE 
 
 FINISHED UP, THE MACHINE KEPT IN ORDER, 
 
 &c., &c. 
 
 Solely for the use of those Purchasing a Machine. 
 
 3!^A<xs.-u.fAOtox>3r, X^rAXxlacXixi, DNT. 
 
 Ne&j gorfe: 
 BAPTIST & TAYLOE, STEAM JOB PRINTERS, SUN BUILDING. 
 f \ 1861. 
 
 "^'<v 
 
 ^?^^^ 
 
 2 ,y<^k^>^ 
 
 f DlSTRim SLEHrS Oi-'f!C£, : 
 
 '^^'"^iQH or ?^ ""'■■ 
 
Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1860, by 
 
 J. B. AIKEN, 
 
 in tlie Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, 
 
 for the Southern District of New York. 
 
 rA- "l-'^Pt) 
 
ILLUSTEATIONS, 
 
 SHOWING THE 
 
 DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE MACHINE, 
 
 TOGETHER WITH AN 
 
 Explanation of the Manner in which they are Adjnsted. 
 
 (FIG. 1.) 
 
 A is a ring, combined to a clamp, which is made fast to 
 the edge of an ordinary table by the thumb-screw a. To 
 this ring all the operating parts of the machine are attached. 
 F is the driving-gear by which all the operating parts of 
 the machine are actuated. 
 
 This gear revolves on the axle or stud B, which is secured 
 to the projection e by an ordinary nut. 
 
(FIG. 2.) 
 
 B is a perspective view of the under side of the nee- 
 dle-plate, showing the flanch or projection, with a thread 
 or screw cut upon its outer surface, by which it is secured 
 to the ring A. b b are straps which are attached to the 
 under side of the needle-plate by two small screws. The 
 outer edges of these straps enter a groove in the flanch of the 
 cam-plate, and are for keeping the cam-plate from rising up 
 from the needle-plate when the machine is in operation. The 
 sectional view (Fig. 6, page 11) clearly illustrates the man- 
 ner in which they are adjusted. 
 
 B'' is a perspective view of the upper side of the needle- 
 plate, showing the grooves in which the needles are inserted. 
 The needles have a lateral movement in these grooves, and 
 are actuated by means of the two cams of the needle-plate, n 
 and r (shown in Fig. 3, page 6.) 
 
 j is the needle used in this machine which is known 
 as the latch needle. One end of this needle is bent at 
 
right angles with the body or straight part. Thi's bent 
 end we term the shank of the needle. It is by this bent 
 end or shank coming in direct contact with the two inclined 
 cams n and r, alternately, that the lateral movement is trans- 
 mitted to the operating end of the needle, which is required 
 when knitting. 
 
 The operating end of the needle consists of a hook and 
 latch. The latch is secured in a slot, cut in the body of the 
 needle, by a rivet which passes through the body of the 
 needle and the lower end of the latch. 
 
 The latch is operated solely by the yarn. "When the latch 
 is ^wung forward, so as to bear upon the hook of the needle, 
 the point of the hook should enter the small spoon-shaped 
 cavity in the end of the latch. 
 
 C is the sinker ring. 
 
 The sinkers are thin plates of steel, the lower ends of 
 which are secured to the sinker ring. The upper ends of 
 the sinkers pass up between the needles, holding back the 
 knit fabric, while each needle draws its loop. The sinkers 
 being thin and elastic, spring sideways when a knot or un- 
 even place in the yarn passes through the eye of the carrier- 
 needle, thereby allowing them to draw in through the fabric 
 so as to form new loops without making holes or imperfections 
 in the work. 
 
(FIG. 3.) 
 
 D is the cam-plate, in Avhich are shown the two cams n and r, 
 also the groove o, through which the shanks of the needles 
 pass when the machine is in operation. The direction in 
 which the shanks pass, when the cam-plate revolves, is repre- 
 sented by three^arrows. As the shanks of the needles pass up 
 the advancing cam r, the working end of the needle moves 
 towards the centre of the machine ; the loop which hangs upon 
 the needle opens the latch — the latch slides through the loop, 
 and the loop falls behind the end of the latch, upon the body 
 of the needle. When the shank of the needle reaches the 
 point y of the groove, the retreating cam n forces the shank 
 to retreat down the groove to y\ 
 
 By carefully observing the operation of the machine when 
 it is knitting, it will be found that at this point the needles 
 draw in the yarn and form new loops. 
 
 When the shank of the needle has reached the point 
 y\ the operating end of the needle is drawn in between 
 
the thin elastic plates of the sinker ring, (described on 
 page 5). q is an oil hole through which oil is conveyed, 
 by the tube of the oil can to the needles. 
 
 i represents the key partly drawn out; this key, when re- 
 moved, opens a channel through which needles can be in- 
 serted into the needle-plate, or removed from it at pleasure. 
 
 g is the carrier-needle and latch-regulator combined. It 
 is for guiding the yarn to the hooks of the needles, and also 
 for regulating the latches, should any rebound, so as to close 
 up the hooks during the process of knitting. A detailed ac- 
 count of it will be given under the head of Fig. 5. 
 
 h is an arm, the bent end of which supports a spur-wheel 
 which keeps the fabric knit in its proper position against the 
 sinkers, while the needles slide inward, towards the centre 
 of the machine. 
 
 The wing which is riveted to the bent arm h, just below 
 the spur-wheel, is for keeping the fabric against the sickers 
 after it leaves the wheel, till the needles draw back between 
 the sinkers. 
 
(FIG. 4, on the opposite page,) 
 
 Represents the macliiiie complete. 
 
 The several parts are properly adjusted ; the fabric is 
 upon the needles, and the weight and buckle properly at- 
 tached. 
 
 L is the bobbin-stand, which supports the cap M by means 
 of the rod /. This rod is made tapering at each end and 
 fits nicely into the cap M, at the upper end, and the stand 
 L at the lower end. The bobbins m, m, m are placed upon 
 the pins which are on the upper surface of the bobbin-stand. 
 The stand can be placed in any position convenient to the 
 operator, but should be placed near the machine. The ma- 
 chine is here represented as knitting from three bobbins at 
 the same time. But when the yarn is large enough, only 
 one bobbin is required to knit from at once. Again — when 
 various colors of yarn are desired to be knit at short inter- 
 vals apart, different colors of yarn can be placed upon the 
 bobbin-stand, and when a sufficient length of fabric is knit 
 from one color the machine is stopped, the yarn broken off 
 midway between the carrier-needle and the cap of the bob- 
 bin-stand, and the color of yarn next desired to be knit can 
 be tied to the end attached to the machine, without displac- 
 ing either of the other two bobbins. This arrangement is 
 found very convenient by practical knitters when knitting 
 undersleeves and other fancy articles. 
 
 HOW TO VAKY THE LENGTH OF THE LOOP WHEN KNITTING. 
 
 n is an eccentric lever, which acts upon the retreating 
 cam (shown in Fig. 3, Page 6), by means of a screw which 
 passes down through the cam-plate. When a short loop is 
 desired to be knit, the end of the lever is raised a little, and 
 moved towards the centre of the machine ; this lever is kept 
 in the position required, by means of a pin on its under sur- 
 face, which enters one of the holes in the top of the cam 
 
10 
 
 plate. "When a longer loop is desired to be knit, the end of 
 the lever should be moved towards the periphery or outer 
 edge of the needle-plate. 
 
 HOW TO KAISE THE WEIGHT. 
 
 In the process of knitting the fabric J is continually be- 
 ing lengthened and the weight W gradually descends towards 
 the floor. The weight W should always be raised before it 
 reaches the floor, which is done in the following manner : — 
 
 Take hold of the fabric J below the buckle K with one 
 hand, and hold the fabric straight downwards, while with 
 the other the buckle K is slipped upwards on the fabric J, 
 and the weight W properly attached. 
 
 (FIG. 5.) 
 
 g is the shank of the carrier-needle, which is attached to 
 the cam-plate, as shown in Fig. 4. The point u is for rais- 
 ing the latches when they rebound, so as to close the hooks 
 of the needles. The latches seldom rebound when the cam- 
 plate is revolved slowly, but when its velocity is increased, 
 the action of the latch striking back upon the body of the 
 needle causes them sometimes to rebound and close the 
 hook of the needle ; were it not for the point entering the 
 hook and raising the latch, the heel of the carrier-needle v 
 "would pass over it, and the yarn in such instances could not 
 
11 
 
 be guided into the hook of the needle. Consequently, when 
 the retreating cam drew the needle back between the sinkers, 
 the needle would " drop" the loop which was upon it, and 
 no new one would be formed. 
 
 The point of the carrier-needle should always be so ad- 
 justed that it will enter the centre of the hook, as represented 
 in the cut, and the heel of the carrier-needle so adjusted 
 that it will not press down upon the needles, but leave suffi- 
 cient room for the yarn to pass freely between the under 
 side of it and the needles ; but care should be taken not to 
 raise the heel of the carrier-needle too high, for the hooks 
 of the needles will be liable to draw ;n below the thread, and 
 drop the loops which are on the needles. 
 
 This explanation is given to enable the operator to pro- 
 perly adjust the carrier-needle should it by carelessness or 
 accident become deranged or misplaced. 
 
 (FIG. 6) 
 
 Is a sectional view of the cam-plate D, and the needle-plate 
 B, cut in a radial line, perpendicularly through them. 
 
 The manner in which the straps (referred to in page 4, 
 Fig. 2) are adjusted so as to keep these plates together, is 
 here illustrated. 
 
 TO UNSCREW THE NEEDLE-PLATE, 
 
 (Reference being had to Fig's 4 and 6), First draw the 
 key i partly out of the cam-plate ; then, by taking hold of the 
 needle, the sha^ik can be drawn out of the operating groove o. 
 
 Nowj by taking hold of the cam-plate D firmly with the 
 right hand, and the opposite edge of the cam-plate with the 
 left, the needle-plate can be unscrewed from the ring A by 
 
12 
 
 pushing from you with the right hand, at the same time 
 drawing towards you with the left. When it is desired to 
 screw the needle-plate into the ring A, the cam-plate should 
 be turned in the opposite direction, and screwed firmly down. 
 
 TAKING THE MACHINE APART. 
 
 (Reference being had to Fig. 4, page 8.) First, break the 
 yarn off close to the carrier-needle ; take hold of the fabric 
 J with the- left hand, and with the right turn the operating 
 gear twice around ; the fabric will then drop off of the 
 needles without further assistance. Then with the left 
 hand (the right still holding the driving-gear) place the 
 wrench upon the nut that holds the stud to the projec- 
 tion e, draw the handle towards you, slack the nut, and 
 remove the stud. The arm h, which supports the spur- 
 wheel, and. also the carrier-needle ^, can then be removed by 
 taking out the screws that attach them to the cam-plate D. 
 Next, partly draw out the key i, and one of the needles (as 
 described in page 11), and unscrew the plate. Then invert 
 the cam-plate, laying it on the table with the flanch of the 
 needle-plate upward, and remove the two straps 6, 6. 
 
 The needle and cam-plate can then be easily separated by 
 taking hold^of the flanch of the plate and raising it. 
 
 By observing these instructions, the most inexperienced 
 person can take the machine apart. 
 
 It is not always requisite to remove the arm A, or the car- 
 rier-needle g, in order to take the machine apart, as these 
 parts can be detached afterwards. 
 
 DIRECTIONS TO PUT THE MACHINE TOGETHER. 
 
 First invert the cam-plate upon the table, replace the 
 needle-plate, and attach the straps 6, h in their propet places 
 — then invert the plates, insert the sinker-ring in the needle- 
 plate, press it gently downwards till it rests upon the small 
 
13 
 
 shoulder upon the inner surface of the flanch — take out the 
 key and insert a needle, as shown in Fig. 6. 
 
 Now, take the ring A (seen in Fig. 1), clamp it firmly to the 
 table, insert the flanch of the needle-plate (taking care to hold 
 the plates perfectly horizontal) and screw it firmly down. 
 
 The carrier-needle ^, and the arm A, which supports the 
 spur-wheel, should be then adjusted in their proper places. 
 The axle upon which the driving gear revolves should be then 
 attached to the arm c, and made fast by the nut. Care 
 should be taken that the teeth of the driving-gear do not 
 bottom in those of the cam-plate. Now draw out the key i 
 and insert the remainder of the needles. When all parts of 
 the machine are properly adjusted, the cam-plate will revolve 
 freely, by turning the crank of the driving-gear. 
 
 PUTTING THE WORK UPON THE NEEDLES. 
 
 After the needles are all inserted in the needle-plate re- 
 volve the cam-plate, once around, that the hooks of the 
 needles may all be opened. 
 
 Now take a piece of knit fabric, such as the operator of 
 these machines is supposed never to be without, unravel one 
 end, so that the loops can be easily taken up with the work- 
 ing hook ; with the left hand pass the perfect end of the 
 fabric up through the centre of the needle-plate ; now hold 
 the end of the fabric near to the heads of the needles, and 
 with the pointed end of the working-hook (the large end 
 being held in the right hand) gently press the loops over upon 
 the hooks of the needles. In this manner the work can be 
 placed upon two-thirds of the needles without revolving the 
 needle-plate ; now draw gently down upon the fabric with 
 the left hand, and revolve the machine till a part of the loops 
 which have been placed upon the needles come directly under 
 the eye of the carrier-needle ; then, in the same manner, 
 place the loops upon the rest of the needles, and attach the 
 
14 
 
 ■weight and buckle as represented in Fig. 4, page 8 ; then 
 pass the yarn through the eye of the carrier-needle — draw 
 it down between the needles for the space of two inches and 
 the machine is ready for operation. 
 
 If some of the loops are dropped, in putting the fabric upon 
 the needles, they will forTu their own loops upon operating the 
 machine ; but if two needles should knit upon one loop, the 
 loop should be takeh off of one of the needles, or an additional 
 one placed on one (ff the needles by the point of the working- 
 hook. By revolving the cam-plate once or twice, it will 
 be perceived that each needle has a distinct loop upon it. 
 
 (FIG. 7.) 
 
 WINDING THE TARN. 
 
 It is always desirable to wind the yarn from the skein, 
 upon a bobbin, previous to being knit. For this purpose are 
 supplied the runners R, R, and the winder P. The run- 
 ners and the winder are attached to the table by the thumb- 
 screws 5, s, s. The distance which the runners should be 
 placed apart depends entirely upon the length of the skein 
 it is desired to wind from. The runners can be placed at 
 any desired distance apart, and made secure to the table. 
 
 The bobbin m should be pressed firmly upon the spindle 
 of the winder — then with the right hand revolve the large 
 
15 
 
 gear, at the same time guide the yarn over the bobbin m with 
 the left, as shown in the cut. 
 
 A little experience will enable the operator to wind the 
 yarn upon the bobbin in a proper manner. 
 
 EEMOVING THE NEEDLES. 
 
 In the cam-plate D, (see. Fig. 4, page 8), is a small key, 
 i, which when taken out leaves a channel, through which any 
 needle can be taken out of the needle-plate, or inserted 
 at pleasure, by slowly revolving the cam-plate until this 
 channel comes directly over the needle which it is desired, 
 to remove. By this process all of the needles can be taken 
 out of the machine, or inserted, as occasion may require. . 
 
 If by accident or carelessness of the operator, the latch of 
 a needle should become bent, it should be taken out of the 
 machine at once — straightened, and made to operate easily 
 before replacing it. But should a latch or hook become 
 broken, it should be taken out of the machine and a fresh 
 one inserted. Always replace the key before operating the 
 machine. 
 
 With proper care a set of needles will last from four to 
 six months, allowing the machine to be in constant operation 
 ten hours each day. 
 
 Should purchasers receive needles that require force to 
 move the latch back and forward in the slot, they should re- 
 turn them to the agent, or to the manufacturer, and demand 
 good ones. 
 
 Care should be taken to see that the body of the needle is 
 perfectly straight, before it is inserted in the machine. 
 
 CLEANING THE MACHINE. 
 
 When the machine is in constant operation, it should be 
 taken apart once in three or four weeks, (which is as often as 
 necessary) ; wipe the needles, the cam-plate, needle-plate 
 
16 
 
 and sinker-ring perfectly clean with cotton waste or cotton 
 cloth, and then replace the several parts as described in 
 page 12. 
 
 The oil and lint can be wiped off of the outside of the ma- 
 chine as often as the operator desires, without detaching any 
 part of the machine. 
 
 OILING THE MACHINE. ' 
 
 The operating parts of the machine should be kept well 
 oiled. Pure sperm oil should be used when it can be obtain- 
 ed, otherwise use olive oil. The only parts of the machine 
 to be oiled are these : the needles, the stud of the driving- 
 gear and the spur-wheel. 
 
 When the machine is in constant operation the needles 
 should be well oiled once a day — especially when heavy work 
 is being knit on the machine. Insert the tube of the oil-can 
 in the oil-hole q, in the cam-plate — press upon the bottom of 
 the can, and at the same time revolve the cam-plate slowly, 
 till the needles are sufficiently oiled. The stud upon which 
 the gear revolves can be oiled in the same manner, through 
 a hole in the hub of the gear. A drop of oil should be put 
 upon the spur-wheel two or three times a day when the ma- 
 chine is in constant operation. 
 
 MAKING VARIOUS SIZES OF STOCKINGS.— Ecfcrence being had 
 to Fig. 8, page 17. 
 
 The gent's and ladies' stockings are knit when the nee- 
 dles are all in the machine. The misses' stockings, No. 3, by 
 taking out every fourth needle. Misses' stockings. No. 4, by 
 taking out every third needle. The two smallest, misses' or 
 children's stockings, Nos. 5 and 6, by taking out every other 
 needle in the machine. 
 
 If the operator desires to knit heavy yarn, the end of the 
 loop-regulator should be raised and moved towards the outer 
 
17 
 
 
 
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 61 
 
 
 
 
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 65 
 
 
 
 
 
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 (FIG. 8.) 
 
18 
 
 edge of the cam-plate, and when fine yarn is desired to be 
 knit, it should be moved in a reverse direction ; but tare should 
 always he taken to adjust the loop-regulator, so that the hook of 
 the needle can he draivn back through the loops with ease. 
 
 In using fine yarn a much shorter loop can be knit than 
 when coarse yarn is used. 
 
 TAPERING THE STOCKING. 
 
 This is done with the assistance of the loop-regulator. 
 The foot and ancle should be knit close and firm, then gradu- 
 ally lengthen the loops for the calf of the stocking ; but the 
 usual way adopted by manufacturers is to knit the web in 
 a continuous tubular piece, and then cut the fabric off, of 
 suitable lengths for the hosiery required. 
 
 It must be remembered that the length which the fabric 
 is cut off, should, in all cases, correspond with the size of the 
 fabric. 
 
 Thus, we cannot expect to make a pair of ladies' long hose, 
 from fabric knit under the rule laid down to knit the small- 
 est misses^ hosiery by. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING OUT GENTLEMEN'S HOSE. — Reference 
 being had to Fig. 8. 
 
 Lay the fabric knit straight and evenly upon the table, and 
 cut off a length of 45 inches ; now lay off a distance from 
 A to C and from B to D of 13J inches.. Also, from D to F 
 and from C to E of 2f inches. Mark these points with a 
 crayon or pencil. Now insert the point of the shears at D, 
 and cut in a straight line to C. Then cut from F to H and 
 from E to G. 
 
 In this manner a pair of stockings are cut from one length 
 of fabric 45 inches long, without any waste, leaving each 
 stocking as shown at No. 1, in Fig. 9. 
 
 Ladies' long hose, misses' and children's hose are cut out 
 
19 
 
 of the knit fabric in a similar manner. Below we give the 
 measurements. 
 
 (FIG. 9.) 
 Ladies'' Long Hose. 
 
 Length from A to B, 60 inches ; A to C and B to D, 22 in- 
 ches ; D to F and C to E, 2^ inches. 
 
 Misses' No. 3. 
 
 Length from A to B, 51 inches; A to C and B to D, 15 
 inches ; D to F and C to E, 2| inches. " 
 
 Misses' No. 4. 
 
 Length from A to B, 42 inches; A to C and B to D, 14 
 inches ; D to F and C to E, 2 inches. 
 
 Misses' No. 5. 
 
 Length from A to B, 36 inches ; A to C and B to D, 12 
 inches ; D to F and C to E, If inches. 
 
 Misses' No. 6. 
 
 Length from A to B, 32 inches ; A to C and B to D, 9 in- 
 ches ; D to F and and C to E, 1 J inches. 
 
20 
 
 FINISHING. 
 
 After the stockings are cut out of the fabric in the man- 
 ner just described, they are seamed up in the following 
 manner, reference being had to Fig. 9. 
 
 The end B is brought into the gore A, as shown at dia- 
 grams 1 and 2. The stocking is then seamed up with a 
 "worsted needle from A to C, and from A to the bottom of 
 the heel. The loops should be then taken up across the bot- 
 tom of the heel, and fastened with a button-hole stitch. 
 
 The toe of the stocking is then formed by stitching firmly 
 from C to D, as shown in the diagrams 2, 3 and 4. The toe 
 is then rounded by cutting off the corners near the seam, 
 as shown in diagram 4. 
 
 The top of the stocking is then finished by turning it in 
 and hemming it down, or the loops can be taken up and 
 crotcheted. The stocking should then be washed, drawn 
 firmly upon one of the stocking boards, (shown in Fig. 10), 
 pinned at the upper end, and allowed to dry upon it. They 
 retain the form thus given to them after being removed. A 
 sample stocking, finished in this manner, is sent with each 
 machine — together with a set of paper patterns by which 
 the shape of the boards can be obtained. 
 
 The box in which the portable family knitting machine is 
 packed, being too small to contain the boards, we are com- 
 pelled to omit them ; but full instructions will accompany the 
 patterns, which will enable any ordinary carpenter to con- 
 struct the same, at a less expense than they can possibly be 
 forwarded to the purchaser. 
 
21 
 
 (FIG. 10.) 
 
 The stocking-board No. 1, is used for boarding gent's 
 hose and half-hose ; No. 2, for boarding ladies' long hose ; 
 Nos. 3, 4, 5 and 6, for boarding misses' and children's hose. 
 
 (FIG. 11.) 
 
 Second Method of Finishing Hosiery. 
 
 At the point A, with the point of a knife or pointed scis- 
 sors, cut one of the loops ; now with the end of an ordinary 
 
22 
 
 knitting-needle, unravel the fabric to B ; then with a heel- 
 piece cut out of the same material, (one width of the fabric 
 making two heel-pieces), insert the heel-piece into the gore A, 
 then join the loops of the heel-piece with those in the gore of 
 the stocking, as shown at A, B, in diagram 2. 
 
 FINISHING THE TOE. 
 
 A triangular piece is now cut out of the end of the fabric 
 from C C, to D, as shown in diagram 1 ; then close up the 
 toe with a needle, as shown at diagram 2. The top of the 
 stocking can.be finished in either of the two ways described 
 in the first method of finishing hosiery. When washed and 
 boarded they have the appearance as shown in diagram 3. 
 
 (FIG. 12.) 
 
 Third Method of finishing Hosiery. 
 
 First prepare the heel as described in the second mode of 
 finishing. The loops are then taken up from A to C, on 
 common knitting needles, and the heel knit in by hand. Now 
 with the worsted needle take up the loops on the side of the 
 gore, from A to B, and close them to the edge of the heel- 
 piece — then close the bottom of the heel as described in the 
 first method. The loops on the end of the fabric are then 
 taken up from D to E, and the toe narrowed down by hand. 
 Finish the top in either of the methods before described; 
 
23 
 
 after which, wash and board the stocking in the usual 
 manner. 
 
 This is the most expensive way of the three for finishing 
 stockings. But this method is a great saving of labor, com- 
 pared with the usual manner of knitting the whole stocking 
 by hand — with this additional advantage — no hand work 
 can ever compare with it for the uniformity in which it does its 
 work. 
 
 TO KNIT NUBIAN SCARFS. 
 
 Fine Shetland worsted of any desired color can be knit 
 into scarfs in the following manner : Attach the weight 
 to the fabric, and adjust the loop-regulator so as to draw a 
 very long loop, and knit the desired length. Then wet the 
 fabric, and stretch it straight and evenly over a thin, smooth 
 board, 10 or 12 inches wide, and 8 or 10 feet long. After 
 it is dry remove it, and finish the end with a fringe to suit 
 your own taste. Undersleeves are knit in the same manner, 
 except the ends of the undersleeves should be contracted. 
 This can be done by properly adjusting the loop-regulator ; 
 but in doing this, care should be taken not to move the 
 regulator abruptly from the longest to the shortest loop, but 
 observe this rule : When the end of the lever n (see Fig. 4, page 
 8) is moved outward to its utmost limit, and it is desir.ed to knit 
 a very short loop, move the end of the loop-regulator half the 
 required distance, towards the centre of the machine ; then 
 revolve the cam-plate twice around ; now move the loop- 
 regulator the rest of the distance required. The same rule 
 should also be observed in lengthening the loop. 
 
 The 12 or 18 gage machines are best adapted to make 
 fancy work, and stockings for families. The 10 gage ma- 
 chines, very heavy socks for negroes and laborers, and the 
 24 gage machines for knitting fine hosiery for ladies and 
 gentlemen. 
 
24 
 
 TO MAKE IMITATION RIBBED WOEK. 
 
 Take out every third or fourth needle, and proceed with 
 knitting. 
 
 A great variety of fancy work can be produced on these 
 machines by diflerent changes of the needles, and by knitting 
 clouded and random yarn ; but much depends on the taste, 
 skill and ingenuity of the operator. 
 
 No person purchasing a machine should be discouraged if 
 they do not succeed in operating it at first, as they antici- 
 pate. But remember that success is the sure reward of 
 perseverance. Any information required concerning these 
 machines or their operation, not contained in this pamphlet, 
 cheerfully given upon application to the manufactiirer. 
 
 Every machine of my manufacture is guaranteed to be 
 constructed in the most perfect manner. 
 
 Every part of the machine is interchangeable, and should 
 any part become broken or injured, a similar part can be 
 forwarded, when ordered, by express, or, if light, hy mail. 
 
 Price of Stocking Boards, various sizes (6 in number), . $0 50 
 
 " extra Bobbin-Stand, 1 00 
 
 " extra Runners, per pair, 1 00 
 
 An Oil Can, Screw Driver, Wrench, Working Hook, 20 
 extra Knitting Needles, and a Worsted Needle accompany 
 each machine. Extra Needles sent by mail, postage pre 
 paid. Price, $5 per 100. 
 
 In ordering needles, state the gage and number of your 
 machine (which you will find stamped upon the to^D of the 
 cam-plate). 
 
 Agents supplied direct from the manufactory, with ma- 
 chines and needles. Address 
 
 J. B. AIKEN, 
 
 Franklin, N. H. 
 
 E 
 
 rVFIi.15.1861. 
 
X 
 
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