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LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Two Copies Received 
 MAY 7 1904 
 Copyright Entry 
 
 CLASS «- XXc. No. 
 
 Iffc l+ 1 1- 
 COPY B 
 
 Entered according- to Act of Congress, 
 
 in the year 1904 by 
 
 FRANK C. BRIDGEFORD. 
 
 In the office of the Librarian of Congress 
 in Washington. 
 
1 
 
 T' 
 
 
 6> 
 
 ii. 
 
 
FRANK C. BRIDGEFORI). 
 
<GDi<seourvf SKeer* 
 
 ~ I z — ■ ■ . — 
 
SANITARY RULES AND REGULATIONS 
 
 FOR BARBERS. 
 
 FIRST — Absolute cleanliness in every detail of work and environ- 
 ment is the underlying principle of tonsorial sanitation. 
 
 SECOND— The methods of enforcing the above principles should be 
 simple, safe, effectual and convenient in application. 
 
 THIRD— For cleaning purposes usually strong soap and hot water 
 will meet most of the requirements. 
 
 FOURTH— Towels and linen should be thoroughly boiled when laun- 
 dered and kept in places secure from dust and other impurities and fre- 
 quent handling. Brushes, combs, shaving cups, razors, sponges and 
 soaps should be kept in clean glass cases, and never used without being 
 thoroughly cleansed with soap and HOT RUNNING WATER, the 
 brushes afterwards dipped in 95 per cent alcohol if desired. 
 
 FIFTH — In shaving or cutting the hair of customers who have erup- 
 tions of the scalp of face, particular attention should be paid to clean- 
 ing everything used on them, with due reference to antiseptics. In 
 these cases sponges, brushes and combs thoroughly boiled or disinfected 
 with a 5 per cent solution of carbolic acid before being again used. 
 The razor can be made safe by washing in running water with soap and 
 wiped with gauze wet with alcohol. 
 
 SIXTH— When extraordinary precautions are required, either of 
 the following solutions may be used to advantage for antiseptic purposes: 
 
 1— Alcohol (Pure). 95 per cent proof. 
 
 2 — Lysol (L. & F.). 25 per cent solution. 
 
 3— Pyrozone McK. R. », 2 per cent solution. 
 
 4 — Hydrogen Dioxide (Oakland). 1 part to 9 parts boiled w T ater. 
 
 5— Bcnsolyptus iSchieffelin)' 1 part to 6 parts of boiled water. 
 
 SEVENTH— In case of dandruff or eruptions of the scalp, a food tar 
 soap (Packer's preferred) would prove serviceable, 
 
 EIGHTH — For disinfecting cuspidors or other vessels. Piatt's Chlor- 
 ides are recommended as safe and efficacious in the proportion of one 
 to eight parts of water, but they should first be cleaned daily by flushing 
 them under a hydrant or hose. 
 
 NINTH— Pulvola, being an impalpable and antiseptic powder, could 
 be used with advantage on an irritable skin in place of the cheap talcum 
 powders now in use. 
 
 TENTH— The barber should wash his hands in running water before 
 handling each customer. Alter stropping his razor, it should be wiped 
 with gauze or cotton wet with alcohol before putting it on a man's face. 
 
 ELEVENTH— Hair brushes should be THOROUGHLY STERILIZED 
 by baking for a few moments after each use in a small tin oven 4x10 
 inches, and should be washed thoroughly with strong soap under hot 
 running water every day. 
 
 TWELFTH— Sea sponges should be discarded and replaced by a 
 clean towel or Surgeon's gauze (costing only 15 cents for five yards). It 
 is absolutely necessary that a clean unused towel be used on each cus- 
 tomer. 
 
 CAUTION— When using water to clean with it should be running 
 water. 
 
 Approved by THE STATE BOARD OF HEALTH OF MISSOURI. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 My sole object in publishing this book, as an in- 
 structor for barbers; is to raise the standard of the 
 tonsorial profession, and to render the executions of 
 the tonsorial artist more satisfactory to the customer 
 than ever before. I myself, have often times needed 
 such a book, therefore, I desire to place this book in 
 the hands of those wishing to learn the trade, and 
 those already in the business who wish to become 
 more proficient in the art. This book contains the 
 most valuable receipts known to the barber, or ton- 
 sorial fraternity. I have used the preparations con- 
 tained herein, in my business for many years. The 
 preparation of these articles in your shop, for sale, 
 will greatly increase your yearly receipts, if they are 
 properly compounded and put up in nice showy 
 bottles neatly labeled. In fact I have known barbers 
 to make a handsome profit on one or two of these 
 preparations, such as Cream of Rose, Hair Invigora- 
 tor, Tonic, Etc. The author gives more exact infor- 
 mation to the barber, or tonsorial artist, than any 
 other Dook published on this subject. Hoping this 
 work will meet with your appreciation, approval and 
 indorsement, I remain, 
 
 Yours sincerely, 
 
EXPLANATORY. 
 
 We are prompted in getting out this revised edi- 
 tion by the immense success we have had with our 
 former edition. It is our purpose to make it a little 
 more elaborate, and publish it for the benefit of bar- 
 bers, who wish to become more proficient and thor- 
 oughly up-to-date in this work, and those wishing to 
 become barbers, or students. 
 
 One of the principal events that has been insti- 
 tuted since the publication of our first edition is the 
 Facial Massage, which has been of great benefit to 
 barbers throughout the country, as well as to their 
 customers, enabling barbers in many cases to double 
 their income. 
 
 In the following pages, we have endeavored to 
 give a complete course of instruction for its scientific 
 application. 
 
 In this edition, we shall publish the Barbers' 
 Law that is now in effect in Missouri and Kansas, 
 and which is very similar to the laws in several other 
 states. 
 
 A number of new formulas which have been 
 used very successfully will be inserted in this book. 
 
 We have recently made a trip through the east 
 and find that they are very much behind the western 
 country in regard to barbering. They still cling to 
 the old methods used years ago. Their shops, on an 
 average, are not up to the standard of the shops 
 throughout the middle west. 
 
BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 A Sketch of Our Past. 
 
 The author of this sketch, and the person being" 
 responsible for the publication of this book, was 
 born in the State of Illinois in the year 1856. The 
 earh T part of his childhood was spent on a farm. 
 Being thrown on his own resources at an early age, 
 he began to cast about for some trade or profession. 
 Being without the advantages of a collegiate educa- 
 tion, of course a profession was out of the question. 
 He first selected the jewelry business, but after work- 
 ing at it a short time, and not being particularly 
 adapted to that kind of a trade, he began to look- 
 around for something else. Having had considera- 
 ble taste for the barber trade when quite young, he 
 purchased a pair of barber shears, comb and brush, 
 and used to cut the hair for the neighborhood boys 
 in the community where he lived, thereby giving him 
 some experience along the line of hair cutting. Then 
 he began to look for a place to work, where he could 
 finish learning the trade in the proper manner. Of 
 course, in these days there were no barber schools. 
 
 He tried to get in the shop in his own town, but 
 the barber there could not use an apprentice to ad- 
 vantage. He spent considerable time around this 
 shop, however, watching the barber work — this being 
 the only shop in the town at that time. In a short 
 time the opportunity seemed to favor him and he 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 9 
 
 went to the city. There he obtained a position as 
 apprentice in a barber shop, where he gained some 
 little knowledge of the business. He was never able 
 to get much practice in shaving and cutting hair in 
 this shop, as the barbers there did not care to allow 
 him to practice on their customers, they wanting to 
 do that work themselves, but they would let him 
 lather and comb hair for them, but if he undertook to 
 take a razor in his hand to shave anyone, they would 
 immediately stop him and tell him he had not ar- 
 rived at that point yet where he would be allowed to 
 shave any one. One day both of the barbers hap- 
 pened to be in the next room, which was a billiard 
 room, when a customer came in, a man in the livery 
 business close by. He jumped into a chair and said, 
 boy, I want you to shave me." He intended to 
 lather him and then call one of the barbers, as was 
 customary, but the customer said, "I want you to 
 shave me. Do not say anything or call the barbers. 
 I want to see what you can do." The boy then went 
 to work and shaved the man the best he could. By 
 the time he had about finished, one of the barbers 
 came in and said, why didn't you call me?" The 
 customer spoke up saying that it was at his request 
 that the boy should shave him and he said, ' by the 
 way, it is the best shave I ever had in this shop, and 
 I want this boy to shave me from this time on if I 
 patronize this shop." After staying with them about 
 
IO BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 a year, he concluded to go into business for himself, 
 and he therefore bought a small outfit and went to a 
 small town in the interior of Illinois and started out 
 for himself. He said at the time, that if he was ever 
 in the position to assist a student or apprentice, or 
 any one wishing to learn the barber trade, that he 
 would do so. He has been in that position for the 
 last ten years, owning and operating the Kansas City 
 Barbers' College where he has assisted hundreds of 
 young men in getting into business for themselves, 
 giving them opportunities to practice the profession 
 right from the start. No one knows any better, wnat 
 draw backs there are in serving as an apprentice in 
 the common ordinary barber shop, than he does. 
 
 Read what the Kansas City World has to say, 
 under date of January 29th: 
 
 THE KANSAS CITY BARBER. COLLEGE. 
 
 An Institution Where Tonsorial Artists Receive a. 
 
 Professional Education — Great Demand In 
 
 the West for Good Men. 
 
 This day of manual training schools, when dip- 
 lomas are requisite to success, there have sprung up 
 in the west a number of training colleges. Prof. F. 
 C. Bridgeford of this city, who conducts one of the 
 largest training schools of that kind in the west, is 
 accounted here as elsewhere one of the pioneers in 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. II 
 
 this branch of education. His college, known as the 
 Kansas City Barber College, located at 503-505 Dela- 
 ware street, was the first of the kind to take root and 
 flourish in the middle west. From a modest begin- 
 ning the institution has grown to be a significant fac- 
 tor in the community. Its present enrollment ex- 
 ceeds that of many older technical schools that in- 
 struct students in more than one branch of manual 
 pursuits. The diploma has become a sign of good 
 work and success in barber shops and patrons have 
 come to look for its display much as clients and pa- 
 tients are wont to insist upon like certificates of fit- 
 ness when the} 7 employ a lawyer or a physician. 
 
 In all the cities and towns of note, and many 
 hamlets of Missouri, Kansas and neighboring states 
 there are graduates of the Kansas City Barber Col- 
 lege. 
 
 Their uniform success attests the efficiency of 
 their training. Prof. Bridgeford's recent success is 
 built upon the good will and business record of for- 
 mer students. He has but to point instances of the 
 successful application of his methods to enforce the 
 value of class training in the barber business. 
 
 The course provided for students at the Kansas 
 City Barber College is such as to preclude the possi- 
 bility of a man or woman obtaining a diploma unde- 
 servedly. It combines theory and practice. The 
 student is given practice along with instruction on 
 
12 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 the first day of his entrance to the school. During 
 the entire course, which covers a period of six weeks, 
 he is given the environment of a perfectly appointed 
 shop, in which from 4.00 to 500 men daily are given 
 tonsorial attention; and throughout his course he is 
 tutored by efficient instructors in all the details of 
 the pursuit. Skillful operation, the care of his tools, 
 shop etiquette and the incidents of behavior that go 
 to please patrons, the artistic in hair dressing and 
 habits of studied cleanliness — these are some of the 
 details of training with which students are imbued. 
 The making of a barber is made an intricate process. 
 It is this attention to the diversity of requirement 
 that makes a college taught barber superior to one 
 risen from mere apprenticeship. 
 
 The Kansas City Barber College enters this year 
 upon the eleventh vear of its career. Prof. Bridge- 
 ford, the head and manager of the institution, has 
 had thirty-three years' experience as a barber, nearlv 
 a half of which time has been devoted to the teaching 
 of others in the profession. Park P. Bridgeford, 
 also an instructor in the college has had long years of 
 experience, in which he especially equipped himself 
 for the work of imparting his knowledge to students. 
 The corps of instructors is made up of men who have 
 not only skill,, but in addition possess insight into 
 accomplishments of manner and mind that are inci- 
 dental to the business, but at the same time often 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 13 
 
 prove elements of success in the operation of shops. 
 
 In preparing for this years' work Prof. Bridge- 
 ford has arranged to enroll twice as many students as 
 received any year previous. The demand for good 
 barbers in the middle west is greater now than ever," 
 said he. I know of no more propitious season than 
 present to learn the business. Already barbers are 
 turning towards St. Louis in order to be there during 
 the fair. This movement has created vacancies all 
 over this region. Any barber will be able to find 
 lucrative employment this spring." 
 
 The Kansas City Barber College has issued an 
 elaborate catalogue which it has mailed to several 
 thousand prospective students in the west. It con- 
 tains a plain statement of what the institution has ac- 
 complished and what it can do for students, written 
 by Prof. Bridgeford, whose close personal attention 
 to the affairs of his college is the surest guarantee of 
 its continued success. 
 
 As this book is intended mostly for barbers and 
 those wishing some day to become barbers, the au- 
 thor thinks it will not be out of place to give some 
 little incidents and experiences that have happened to 
 him in his long career in the barber business. 
 
 When I was running my first shop in Illinois, a 
 most pleasing and amusing incident happened one 
 
14 BRIDGEFOKD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 da} 7 . Robert J. Burdette, the humorous lecturer, 
 was billed to lecture in town that night. Of course, 
 I was naturally interested, as his subject was "The 
 Rise and Fall of the Moustache." In the forenoon 
 of the day he was to lecture, a very nice appearing 
 gentleman of small stature came into my shop and 
 got shaved, and in the conversation I asked, ' are 
 you going to hear Burdette tonight?" The gentleman 
 said hs thought perhaps he would. Then I asked 
 him, 'have you ever heard him before?" The gen- 
 tleman replied, "yes, I have heard him." Being- 
 evasive, and not seeming to wish to continue the con- 
 versation, I said nothing more. You can imagine 
 my surprise that night when I recognized Mr. Bur- 
 dette as being the gentleman who was in my shop 
 that morning. There was not much in his lecture 
 that pertained to the barber business, except that he 
 told of the timidity a young man experiences when he 
 enters a barber shop for his first shave. 
 
 This also puts me in mind of another little inci- 
 dent of a barber shaving a customer one day. The 
 barber was a very inquisitive fellow and always ready 
 to ask questions of his patrons. He received quite a 
 set back this day when he asked his customer how he 
 had received a peculiar scar that was on the side of 
 his face. The customer looked up at him rather so- 
 berly and said, young man, I am paying you for a 
 shave, and not to ask questions." It was noticed af- 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 15 
 
 terwards that the barber seemed to be less inquisitive. 
 
 I have met a great many barbers in my time, 
 whose dispositions were so different, that is, some of 
 the smooth workmen were of a retiring nature and 
 not inclined to talk, while others being very smooth 
 talkers, were poor workmen. However, to use a 
 slang phrase, a little "con" helps along if you have 
 goods to sell, and of course you try to sell them, and 
 a good salesman sells goods to a person who really 
 does not care to purchase. It is the same way with 
 the barber. The barber must be smooth and try to 
 sell his goods, which is shaving, hair cutting, etc., 
 and which is his stock in trade. Of course he must 
 not be too persistent, so as to aggravate his custo- 
 mer, but be nice and gentlemanly about it, and the 
 customer will appreciate your endeavors and call 
 again. 
 
 1 have also found out that it is not a good idea 
 in being too radical in talking politics or religion, as 
 a great many times you will lose a customer on that 
 account. 
 
 Being of a speculative turn of mind, I was not 
 long in disposing of this shop and began looking for 
 a better location. This is a mistake a great many 
 barbers make in being too willing to sell a business 
 when he thinks he is getting all that it is worth, and 
 perhaps more, for sometimes when a person sells out 
 his barber shop and a good paying business for $200 
 
16 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 or $300; it will cost that much to get another loca- 
 tion as good as the one he has just sold. 
 
 I remember looking up a location for a barber 
 shop in Iowa one time. Looking up a location for a 
 shop is not the most pleasant business in the world. 
 You can always hear of some good location a little 
 farther on, and after you get there, you usually find 
 there is not very much to it. Speaking about look- 
 ing up a location, I heard of a new town just started. 
 There were three railroads entering this place, and it 
 was recommended to be a first class location. After 
 I arrived in the town, I found that they had had a 
 very fair barber there, but he had sold out to a 
 country boy who knew nothing whatever about the 
 business. He had been there about tw r o weeks, and 
 during that time, had cut off the end of one man's 
 nose with the heel of his razor, scarred up several 
 others pretty badly, ruined several heads of hair, and 
 of course the people there wanted another barber 
 pretty badly, when I happened on the scene. 1 
 walked into the shop and said to the young man, "do 
 you wish to employ a barber?" He replied, very 
 sarcastically, I do all of my own work." But he 
 said he was building a new room and if I wanted to 
 work that afternoon that I could have all that I took 
 in. Being a little tired, I concluded to stay around 
 awhile and see if there would be anything to do. In 
 a few minutes a man came in the shop, whom I 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 17 
 
 shaved, and cut his hair. He, knowing the situation 
 of things, went up the street and told the men in the 
 different stores that if they wanted any work done 
 that there was a good barber down at the barber shop 
 now — some tramp just going through, and by the 
 way, to use his language, the best barber you ever 
 saw." It was not long before the shop was full of 
 customers. The young man who owned the shop — 
 it being a two chair shop — came in and walking up to 
 the other chair said "next." The customers said 
 they were waiting for me. By 10 o'clock that 
 night I shaved nearly all the men in town and cut 
 their hair, taking in some $8 or $g. When I was 
 ready to leave the shop, the barber asked me for his 
 share. I said to him, did you not agree to give me 
 all that I would take in? "Yes," he replied, "but I 
 did not think you were going to shave the whole com- 
 munity." I tossed him a dollar as I went out, saying 
 that was more than you would have made anyhow. 
 
 The banker of the town requested that I call at 
 the bank after I got through, and when I reached 
 there I found a number of the leading citizens wait- 
 ing for me, ready to offer me any kind of an induce- 
 ment if I would locate in their town, saying they 
 would guarantee me $75 per month right from the 
 start. I concluded to locate there. They advanced 
 me mone_v to buy an outfit and get started in busi- 
 ness and send for mv family. I staved in that town 
 
18 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 a little over a year and cleared considerable over 
 $1000, banking the first month after I had located 
 there, over $100. 
 
 Still retaining this spirit of unrest, I sold out 
 this place and went farther west with the intsntion of 
 taking up government land, which I did. As my 
 health had become somewhat impaired I concluded 
 that outdoor occupation would be better for me 
 for awhile. I pre-emptied one hundred and sixty 
 acres, and then took one hundred and sixty acres 
 more under the Homestead Act, and also one hun- 
 dred and sixty acres under the Timber Claim Act. 
 
 My health had now become fully restored and I 
 concluded to get back in the barber business again, 
 and therefore made arrangements to sell my land and 
 I afterwards operated shops in Denver, Salt Lake 
 and several coast points. Preparations were going 
 on in Chicago for the World's Fair, and I made ar- 
 rangements to be there during that time. From there 
 I came to Kansas City, where I have since remained. 
 
 We have adopted a course of physical culture 
 exercises, particularly adapted to the barber, which 
 will be published in the latter part of this book. If in- 
 structions are followed it will keep you in a first class 
 physical condition, and in many cases ward off sick- 
 ness; and you will always feel strong and ready for 
 work. 
 
 This book is in no wav intended for an adver- 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 19 
 
 tisement for our school or anything of that kind, but 
 is intended to be a benefit for those starting in the 
 barber business. But we can not let an opportunity 
 slip by without saying a word in regard to the utter 
 ignorance that some barbers display in regard to a bar- 
 ber school. It seems that some of these people never 
 lose an opportunity to malign and abuse the school; 
 we remember a little instance that will illustrate the 
 ignorance of this class of people. There was a young 
 man coming from a small town in Kansas to attend 
 our school, before starting he stepped in a barber 
 shop to get a hair cut and shave. The barber asked 
 him where he was going and he said: "To Kansas 
 City to attend the barber school." The barber said, 
 Roy, you darned fool, don't you know you can't 
 learn nothing in a barber school, don't you know you 
 can't learn nothing out of books, you have to be 
 where you can shave and cut hair and get the actual 
 practice." And the boy found on reaching the school 
 that he could shave more people and cut more hair 
 than he probably ever would again in the same length 
 of time. 
 
 Another instance and then we will close. An- 
 other young man coming from an interior town in 
 Missouri to learn the trade at our place was discour- 
 aged by a barber, who told him he would have to 
 shave glass bottles and brass faces to get practice, 
 that he could not learn in that wav. Of course the 
 
20 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 boy paid no attention to what the barber said but 
 concluded to investigate our methods on his own ac- 
 count, which he did and found them entirely satisfac- 
 tory. He learned the trade in our place and after- 
 wards located in opposition to the man who told him 
 that he would have to shave glass bottles and brass 
 faces. In a very short time he run the other fellow 
 entirely out of business. We could mention hun- 
 dreds of cases of this kind where barbers have used 
 all kinds of methods to misrepresent our school, and 
 discourage young men from coming here to learn the 
 trade, but in most cases students have had determi- 
 nation enough to investigate our methods for them- 
 selves, and not accept advise that had been given for 
 nothing, as advise given for nothing is generally 
 worth nothing, and sometimes creates considerable 
 damage. 
 
 We have never lost any sleep over what these 
 ignorant barbers have said about us, attending strict- 
 ly to our own affairs, and we hope that there can be 
 as much said of us as Sir Isaac Newton said when he 
 had about run the race of life, that we have been able 
 to pick up a few of the pebbles that lay along the 
 beach of the great ocean of wisdom. 
 
 HAIR INDICATIVE OF CHARACTER. 
 
 The character of persons is sometimes indicated 
 by the color of the hair. 
 
 The bilious temperament, black hair and dark 
 
BA.RBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 21 
 
 skin are generally found associated. These indicates 
 strength of character and sensuality. 
 
 Fine hair and dark skin show purity, goodness 
 and strong mind. 
 
 Stiff, straight and abundant black hair and beard 
 are usually combined with strong, unyielding, 
 straight-forward and rather bluff character. 
 
 Fine brown hair indicates exquisite sensibility, 
 for a strong will for what is good and right, when un- 
 perverted. 
 
 If the hair is straight and lies flat on the head, 
 the temperament is melancholly, but you can safeU^ 
 rely on that person, be it man or woman. 
 
 If the hair is coarse, black and sticks up, there is 
 not much socialibility, and much that is stubborn, 
 sour, and harsh in the character. 
 
 Coarse, red hair indicates mucn fire and energy, 
 with unusual strength and firmness. 
 
 Auburn hair, with a florid face, gives purity, in- 
 tensity, and great capacity for enjoyment or suffering. 
 
 Fine, silky", pliable, easily dressed hair indicates 
 delicacy, sensibility and goodness. 
 
 Hasty, impetuous and rash people have crisp, 
 curly hair, but if it is straight and smooth, even and 
 flossy, a warm heart, a clear head and superior tal- 
 ents are indicated. 
 
 White hair, as a general rule indicates a good, 
 easy, lazy fellow. 
 
22 BRIDGEFORDS REVISED EDITION 
 
 The hair, naturally parting in the middle and 
 falling on either side, indicates womanly refinement, 
 purity, and delicacy. When the hair extends and 
 lies on the forehead in rings, it indicates a frank 
 open and genial nature. 
 
 The light-haired races are the thinkers, the poets 
 and the artists of the world. 
 
 Dark brown hair combines the two and the most 
 desirable. 
 
 To sum up: 
 
 Black hair indicates physical strength. 
 
 White hair, mental vigor. 
 
 Red hair, a fiery temperment, passion and de- 
 votion. 
 
 Wavy hair, a pliable, yielding, accommodating 
 disposition. 
 
 Straight, stuck up hair, stubbornness and fidelity. 
 
 Very smooth, coarse-lying hair is Oily Gam- 
 mon." 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MAI1UAL. 23 
 
 KANSAS AND MISSOURI LAW GOVERNING 
 
 BARBERS. 
 
 AN ACT 
 
 To regulate the -practice of the barber profession, creat- 
 ing a State Board of Examination and Inspection 
 Commissioners, to prevent the spreading of conta- 
 gious diseases, levying of fees, and prescribing pen- 
 alties for violation of this act. 
 
 Be it enacted by the Legislature of the States of Kansas 
 
 and Missouri: 
 
 Section i. It shall be unlawful for any person 
 to follow the occupation of a barber in this state 
 unless he shall have first obtained a certificate of reg- 
 isiration, as provided in this act; provided, however, 
 that nothing in this act contained shall apply to or 
 effect any person who is now actually engaged in 
 such occupation, except as hereinafter provided; pro- 
 vided, that the provisions of this law shall not apply 
 to barbers in any city, town or village containing less 
 than 5000 inhabitants in Missouri and 3000 in Kansas. 
 
 Sec. 2. A board of examiners, to consist of 
 three persons, citizens of this state for at least three 
 years prior to their appointment, is hereby created to 
 carry out the purposes and to enforce the provisions 
 of this act. Such board shall be appointed by the 
 governor, at least two members of which shall be se- 
 lected from the membership of the ; 
 
 provided, that all barbers must have had at least a 
 
24 BRIDGEFORDS REVISED EDITION 
 
 practice of at least five years at the said occupation 
 prior to their appointment. Each member so recom- 
 mended shall appear before the State Board of 
 Health, whose duty it shall be to determine whether 
 or not such member possesses sufficient knowledge 
 of contagious and inoculable diseases to enable such 
 member to pass judiciously upon the qualifications of 
 others in the occupation of barber. If said Board of 
 Health shall reject an appointee, then the governor 
 shall appoint some one else in place of the persons 
 rejected, such appointment to be made from the same 
 class of persons from which the appointment was 
 made. If, on the other hand, the appointment be 
 confirmed by the board, said board shall issue a cer- 
 tificate to that effect, and all appointments made 
 under the provisions of this act shall date from the 
 confirmation thereof by said state board. Each mem- 
 ber of said board shall serve for a term of three 
 years and until his successor is appointed and quali- 
 fied, except in the case of the first board, whose mem- 
 bers shall serve one, two or three years, respectively, 
 as specified in their appointment. Said board shall, 
 with the approval of the State Board of Health, pre- 
 scribe such sanitary rules as it may deem necessary 
 with particular reference to the precautions necessary 
 to be employed to prevent the creating and spreading 
 of infectious or contagious diseases. A copy of such 
 rules shall be furnished each person to whom a cer- 
 \ 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 25 
 
 tificate of registration is granted. Each member of 
 said board shall, before entering upon the discharge 
 of his duties, give a bond in the sum of two thousand 
 dollars, with a surety or sureties to be approved by 
 the secretary of state, conditioned for the faithful 
 performance of his duties, and shall take the oath 
 provided by law for public officers. Vacancies upon 
 said board caused by deaths resignation or expiration 
 from any cause of the term of any member thereof 
 shall be rilled by appointment from the same class of 
 persons to which the deceased or retiring member 
 belonged. 
 
 Sec. 3. Said board shall elect a president, sec- 
 retary, and treasurer, shall have its headquarters at 
 such place in the state as the board may determine, 
 shall have a common seal, and the secretary and 
 president shall have the power to administer oaths. 
 A majority of said board may, in meeting duly as- 
 sembled, perform the duties and exercise the powers 
 devolving upon said board under the provisions of 
 this act. 
 
 Sec. 4. Each member of said board shall re- 
 ceive a compensation of three dollars per day for his 
 services, and also railroad fare and such other travel- 
 ing expenses as raav be necessary in the proper dis- 
 charge of his duties, and shall be paid out of any 
 money in the hands of the treasurer of the said board. 
 Said board shall also be allowed for such other ex- 
 
26 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 penditures and outlays, payable out of the moneys 
 in the hands of its treasurer, as shall be reasonable 
 and proper for the discharge of their duties and to 
 carry out the provisions of this act. 
 
 Sec. 5. Said board shall report to the auditor of 
 this state at each of its regular meetings a full state- 
 ment of the receipts and disbursements of the board 
 during the preceeding two years; a full statement of 
 its doings and proceedings and such recommenda- 
 tions as it may deem proper, looking to the better 
 carrying out of the intent and purposes of this act. 
 Any money in the hands of the treasurer of said board 
 at the time of making such report, in excess of two 
 hundred and fifty dollars, shall be paid over to the 
 state treasurer for the maintenance of the public 
 schools of this state. 
 
 Sec. 6. Such board shall hold public examina- 
 tions at least four times in each year, at such times 
 and places as it may deem advisable; notice of such 
 meetings to be given by publication thereof at least 
 ten days prior to such meetings in at least two news- 
 papers published in this state, in the locality of such 
 proposed meeting. 
 
 Sec. 7. Every person now engaged in the occu- 
 pation of barber in this state shall, within ninety days 
 after the approval of this act, file with the secretary 
 of said board an affidavit setting forth his name, resi- 
 dence and the length of time during which and the 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 27 
 
 place where he has practiced such occupation, and 
 shall pay to the treasurer of said board one dollar; 
 and a certificate of registration entitling him to prac- 
 tice the said occupation for the fiscal year ending 
 January 31, 1904, thereupon shall be issued to him; 
 and the holders of such certificates shall within thirty 
 days after the expiration of their respective certificate 
 make application for the renewal of the same, stating 
 the number of expiring certificates, and shall in each 
 case pay to the treasurer of said board the sum of one 
 dollar thereof. For any and every license or certifi- 
 cate given or issued by the board a fee of one dollar 
 shall be paid by the person receiving the same. 
 
 Sec. 8. Any person not following the occupa- 
 tion of a barber at the time this act goes into opera- 
 tion, desiring to obtain a qualified certificate of the 
 said occupation in this state, shall make application 
 to said board therefor, and shall pay to the treasurer 
 of said board an examination fee of five dollars, and 
 shall present himself at the next regular meeting of 
 the board for the examination of applicants, where- 
 upon said board shall proceed to examine such per- 
 son, and, being satisfied that he is above the age of 
 nineteen years, of good moral character, free from 
 contagious or infectious disease, has either (a) studied 
 the trade for two (2) years as an apprentice under a 
 qualified and practicing barber, or (. b) studied the 
 trade for at least two (2) years in a properly ap- 
 
28 bridgkford's revised edition 
 
 pointed and conducted barber school or college, 
 under the instructions of a qualified barber, or (c) 
 practiced the trade in another state for at least two 
 (2) years, and is possessed of the requisite skill in 
 said trade to properly perform all the duties thereof, 
 including his ability in the preparation of the tools, 
 shaving, hair cutting, and all the duties and services 
 incident thereto, and is possessed of sufficient knowl- 
 edge concerning the common diseases of the face and 
 skin to avoid the aggravation and spreading thereof 
 in the practice of said trade, shall enter his name in 
 the register hereafter provided for, and shall issue to 
 him a certificate of registration, authorizing him to 
 practice said trade in this state; provided, that when- 
 ever it appears that applicant has acquired his knowl- 
 edge of said trade in a barber school or college, the 
 board shall be judges of whether said barber school 
 or college is properly appointed or conducted and 
 under proper instructions to give sufficient training 
 in said trade. All persons making such application 
 for examination under the provisions of this act shall 
 be allowed to practice the occupation of barbering 
 until the meeting for the next regular examination b\ T 
 the said board, and no longer, and the secretary shall 
 give him a permit to do so; provided, however, that 
 such time may be extended by the board for good 
 cause shown. 
 
 Sec. 9. Nothing in this act shall prohibit any 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 2q 
 
 person from serving as an apprentice in said trade 
 under license issued by the board under a barber au- 
 thorized to practice (in) the same under this act, nor 
 from serving as a student in any school or college for 
 the teaching of said trade, under the instructions of a 
 qualified barber; provided, that in no barber shop 
 shall there be more than one apprentice to two bar- 
 bers authorized under this act to practice said occu- 
 pation, but all barber shops having but one chair 
 shall be entitled to one apprentice; and provided, that 
 all barber schools or colleges shall keep prominently 
 displayed a sign, barber college or barber school, and 
 no other sign or signs; provided, that all barbers or 
 barber schools or colleges who shall take an appren- 
 tice or student shall file immediately with said board 
 the name and age of such apprentice or student, and 
 the said board shall cause the same to be entered in a 
 -register kept for that purpose. 
 
 Sec. io. Said board shall furnish to each per- 
 son to whom a certificate of registration is issued a 
 card or certificate, in such form as it shall adopt, 
 bearing the seal of the board and the signature or its 
 president and secretary, certifying that the holder 
 thereof is entitled to practice the occupation of bar- 
 In r in this state, and it shall be the duty of the holder 
 of such card or insignia to post the same in a con- 
 spicuous place in front of his working chair, where it 
 
30 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 may be readily seen by all persons whom he mav 
 serve. 
 
 Sec. ii. Said board shall keep a register, in 
 which shall be entered the names of all persons to 
 whom certificates are issued and to whom permits for 
 serving apprenticeship or as students under this act, 
 and said register shall at all times be open to public 
 inspection. 
 
 Sec. 12. Said board shall have power to revoke 
 any certificate of registration granted by it under this 
 act for (a) conviction of crime; (b) habitual drunk- 
 enness; (c) gross incompetency; (d) failure or refusal 
 to properly provide or guard against contagious or 
 infectious disease, or the spreading thereof, in the 
 practice of the occupation aforesaid; or (e) violation 
 of the rules of the board mentioned in section two 
 (2) of this act; provided, that before any certificate 
 shall be so revoked the holder thereof shall have no- 
 tice in writing of the charge or charges against him, 
 and shall at a day specified in said notice, at least 
 five (5) days after the service thereof, be given a 
 public hearing on said charges, and full opportunity 
 to produce testimony in his behalf and to confront 
 the witnesses against him. Any person whose cer- 
 tificate has been so revoked may, after the expiration 
 of ninety (90) days, apply to have the same regrant- 
 ed to him, upon a satisfactory showing that the dis- 
 qualification has ceased. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 31 
 
 Sec. 13. Any person who is engaged in the ca- 
 pacity so as to shave the beard or cut and dress the 
 hair for the general public shall be construed as prac- 
 ticing the occupation of barber, and the so said bar- 
 ber or barbers shall be required to fulfil all require- 
 ments within the meaning of this act. 
 
 Sec. 14. Any person practicing the occupation 
 of barber without having obtained a certificate of reg- 
 istration as provided in this act, or wilfully employ- 
 ing a barber who has not such certificate, or falsely 
 pretending to be qualified to practice as barber, or 
 instructor or teacher of said occupation under this 
 act, or failing to keep the certificate or card mention- 
 ed in section 10 of this act properly displayed, or 
 failing to comply with such sanitary rules as the 
 board, in conjunction with the State Board of Health, 
 prescribes, or for the violation of any of the provis- 
 ions of this act, shall be deemed guilty of a misde- 
 meanor, and the board shall proceed against all such 
 persons, and upon conviction thereof they shall be 
 punished by a fine of not less than ten dollars or 
 more than one hundred dollars, or by imprisonment 
 in the county jail not less than ten days or more than 
 ninety days. Prosecutions under this act shall be 
 begun and carried on in the same manner as other 
 prosecutions for misdemeanors in this state. 
 
 Sec. 15. This act shall take effect and be in 
 force from and after its publication in the statue books. 
 
32 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 THE BARBER. 
 
 "By whose decrees, our sinful souls to save, 
 
 No Sunday tankards foam, no barber shave. - " — Byron 
 
 The occupation of barber is an institution 
 of civilized life, and is only known anions' 
 those nations that have made a certain pro- 
 gress in civilization. It is referred to by the 
 prophet Ezekiel: ''And thou, son of man, take 
 thee a barber's razor, and cause it to pass 
 thine head and upon thy beard." (Ezek. v. i.) 
 We do not read of barbers at Rome until 
 about the year of 454 of the city; but there, 
 as elsewhere, when once introduced, they 
 became men of great notoriety, and their 
 shops were the resort of all the loungers and 
 newsmongers in the city. Hence they are 
 alluded to by Horace as most accurately in- 
 formed in all the minute history, both of 
 families and of state. But in early times, the 
 operations of the barber were not confined, as 
 now, to shaving, hair-dressing and making of 
 wigs; but included the dressing of wounds, 
 blood-letting, and other surgical operations. 
 It seems that in alf countries the art of sur 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 33 
 
 gery and the art ot shaving went hand in hand. 
 The title of B-Chirurgeon, or B-Surgeon, was 
 generally applied to barbers. The B — of 
 London, were first incorporated by Edward 
 IV, in 1461, and at that time were the only 
 persons who practiced surgery. The barbers 
 and the surgeons were separated, and made 
 two distinct corporations; in France, in the 
 time of Louis XIV, and in England in 1745. 
 The sign of B-Chirurgeon consisted of a strip- 
 ped pole from which was suspended a basin; 
 the fillet round the pole indicating their riband 
 or bandage twisted round the arm previous to 
 blood-letting, and the basin or vessel for re- 
 ceiving the blood. This sign has been gener- 
 ally retained by the modern barber. In our 
 country, nevertheless, it is only occasionally 
 that the basin may be seen hanging at the 
 door of an old barbers shop. Tha character 
 of the barber is amusingly illustrated in one of 
 the tales of the Arabian Nights entertainments 
 and has been immortalized by Beaumarchais, 
 
 Mozart and Rossinni, under the name of 
 Figaro. 
 
34 bridgkford's revised edition 
 
 STROPPING THE RAZOR. 
 
 The best strop in use known to the barber 
 fraternity is the genuine Russian leather strop, 
 the price of which is from $1.00 to $1.25 
 each, and will last a person a life time if 
 proper care is taken of the same. There are 
 cheaper strops on the market, such as horse 
 hide and the different kinds of common leather 
 strops which seem to be very good, but in our 
 mind there is nothing equal to the genuine 
 Russian, leather strop. 
 
 In stropping hang your strop in a good 
 
 firm position, either on the side of your chair 
 
 or on your bench where it will be the proper 
 
 height. Draw the razor from the heel to 
 
 the point making same strokes from right to 
 
 left. It is well after you take your razor 
 
 from the hone to strop it very gently 
 
 on the leather before putting it on the canvas, 
 
 for which use only the genuine Russian 
 
 leather strop. In stropping, after making a 
 
 few strokes to temper the edge on the leather, 
 
 then strop gently on the canvas, then again on 
 the leather until you get the edge tempered in 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 35 
 
 shape. Do not shave a right hard beard as it 
 may crumple your edge, but strop gently, 
 shaving an easy man first until you can judge 
 the tempering of the razor and then you can 
 shave the hardest beard with perfect ease. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS IN HONING. 
 
 Great care and caution should be taken in 
 honing a razor. We will endeavor in these 
 instructions to give you the method of honing, 
 on the three principle hones, used at the pre- 
 sent time, namely: lather hone, or what is 
 known to some barbers as the hickory hone. 
 The water hone has been in use a great many 
 years. Having used this mostly in my busi- 
 ness for the last twenty-five years, I will 
 commence giving you instructions on the 
 water hone. The water hone is of German 
 origin and you will find it used by Germans, 
 more so than any other class of barbers. To 
 hone a razor however, it should be done when 
 the barber has no care on his mind, and not 
 when customers are waiting, nor when he has 
 any other business to occupy his mind. An 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 
 
 37 
 
 old saying- that I remember when I was a boy, 
 "That a sharp razor was half the shaving-, and 
 a well lathered and soft beard the other half." 
 
 HONING ON THE WATER HONE. 
 
 Balance the razor carefully on the fore- 
 fingers for honing; commence at the heel and 
 draw the razor diagonally across the hone to a 
 point toward the edge as in following cut, 
 
 running up so that it will be in the same posi- 
 tion on the left side as it was in starting from 
 the right. Draw down with the same weight 
 and pressure on both sides, being careful to 
 make the licks from right to left exactly the 
 same, thereby keeping the bevel the same on 
 botl-i side f the razor. Now, look at your 
 
38 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 razor occasionally as you hone and see that the 
 bevel is the same on both sides. Keep the 
 hone well dampened with water and rub it 
 occasionally with the rubber for the purpose 
 of making a thick gray paste. After you think 
 you have honed a sufficient length of time 
 draw your razor across your finger nail, then 
 if it presents a sticky feeling like the keen 
 edge of a knife on your finger you should 
 know that you have honed sufficient. 
 If, however, niches are still on the edge you 
 will have to hone until they disappear. After 
 you have honed a short time feel the edge 
 with your finger and if it draws all the 
 way long even and smoothe you may know 
 that you have your razor in shape to put on 
 your strop. If the razor is new and well 
 ground, very little honing will be necessary 
 on any hone as it is more likely to be worse 
 for the razor and it is very hard to get into 
 condition a^ain, when once over-honed. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 39 
 
 THE LATHER HONE. 
 
 The lather or hickory hone, as it is known 
 to a large number of barbers, is in general use 
 throughout the country, and is one of the 
 principal hones now in use. Its origin is 
 Belgium, and it is a manufactured hone. It is 
 manufactured by the process of petrification. 
 You use lather on this hone exclusively; also 
 some use oil to a good advantage. You com- 
 mence honing the razor in the same manner 
 as on the water hones. Hone from the heel 
 to the point, same as-in cut shown previous. 
 Then turn razor in fingers, then turn razor 
 around so that both back and edge touch on the 
 hone. Draw carefully if the razor is very dull 
 give it a great many strokes from right to left 
 to get it in the right condition, but as I say if 
 the razor is in fair shape it will need very little 
 honing. Keep testing the razor so that you 
 know when the edge is in good shape, and 
 keep putting lather on hone. In this way you will 
 feel if it is cutting the same on both sides. Test 
 
 the razor the same way as you did on the 
 water hone. Feel it with your fingers occas- 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 41 
 
 ionally to see if you have honed sufficient, also 
 draw gently across your fingers to see if it 
 feels sticky and holds fast to your fingers, the 
 same as in honing on the water hone. 
 
 THE SWATY HONE. 
 
 This is comparatively a new product. It 
 was invented by Francis Swaty, of Veinna, 
 and is practically more in use now than any 
 other used, and when in good condition it 
 takes very little honing. I will give you in- 
 structions pertaining to the Swaty hone. 
 
 , 1 . — The two sides of the alumine hone differ 
 in roughness, the side marked with the firm is 
 the sharper one. 
 
 2. — Half hollow or thick razors must be 
 honed first on the rougher surface, but not too 
 lone, and then on the finer surface as described 
 in article 3. 
 
 3. — On the finer side only the thin hollow 
 ground razor can be honed in the following 
 manner: Put the razor with the back flat on 
 the hone as shown before in cut, and draw the 
 razor three or four times against the edge; 
 
42 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 when drawing back, the razor must be turned 
 on its back. Then try the edge. Should It 
 not be sharp enough try the same process 
 again until the required sharpness is produced. 
 
 4. — Honing can be done with oil, water or 
 soap suds. 
 
 5. — Should the rough side, by long use get 
 too smooth rub it when dry with rough emery 
 paper or with a flat piece of pumice stone and 
 plenty of water. 
 
 6 — Should the finer surface by long use get 
 too smooth rub it gently at first with fine 
 emery paper. 
 
 The price of the Swaty hone is 50c to $1.00. 
 The price of the hickory hone runs from 75c 
 to almost as high as a person wants to go, 
 according to size and quality, etc. In buying 
 a good hone the price should be no object; of 
 course, the higher price you pay for a hone 
 the better hone you obtain. It is well to 
 go a great deal on the judgement of the supply 
 man in buying a hone as they handle them 
 every day and have* experience which the gen- 
 eral public cannot obtain. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 43 
 
 SELECTING A RAZOR. 
 
 There is so many good brands of razors on 
 the market at the present time that it is hard 
 to tell which is the best, The following is the 
 names of some of the leading brands: Blue 
 Steel, Bismarck, Cosmos, Mars Razor, Nancy 
 Hanks; all of which are sold here in Kansas 
 City. The same applies to razors as to hones. 
 These razors are all guaranteed by the supply 
 man and if you do not get a good razor at 
 first they will allow you to exchange until you 
 do get a good one, which is absolutely guaran- 
 teed. As I have stated before you should 
 put a great deal of confidence in the supply 
 man in regard to picking out a good razor or 
 get some experienced barber who has been 
 used to handling razors to select for you 
 or tell you something about them. There is 
 but one way of telling however, and that is by 
 thoroughly testing it, which they will all allow 
 you to do, 
 
44 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 THE ART OF SHAVING. 
 
 The first very important thing is to get 
 your man in a nice comfortable and easy posi- 
 tion in the chair. Put a towel down around his 
 neck, using a clean towel for each man. Rinse 
 the cup or mug out for every man thoroughly. 
 Put the water in the mug, then turn it out so 
 that all will run out but what will stay on the 
 brush, then make the lather. Commence lath- 
 ering on the right cheek, holding your thumb 
 to the ear so as to keep the lather from going 
 into the ear, then lather the left side in the 
 same manner. Rub the lather over the face 
 taking the brush in your left hand and rub 
 gently with your right across the chin being 
 careful not to get the lather too far down on 
 neck or too far up on the cheek. Never be in 
 any hurry in lathering. Rub until the beard 
 is thoroughly softened. An old saying is ' 'A 
 man well lathered is half shaved." The same 
 proverb is true to day. After you have your 
 man well lathered, wipe your hands perfectly 
 dry. It is well to have a small chunk of alum 
 on which you can rub your hands before taking 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 45 
 
 the razor in your hand. Strop your razor- 
 according to instructions on stropping. If the 
 lather becomes dry while you are stropping 
 your razor put on more lather until it is soft- 
 ened sufficient. Lay your paper on his breast. 
 Now, you are read\- for shaving. Take your 
 razor and balance itxm the three fingers, with 
 the little finger over the top of the handle and 
 thumb on side of the blade known as move- 
 ment Xo. 1. With this stroke shave down 
 toward the side of the face, stretching the skin 
 with the little finger of the left hand; shave 
 down half way to the point of the chin. Wipe 
 your razor turning the thumb on the other side 
 and follow movement No. 2. then with this 
 stroke shave to the point of chin. Wipe your 
 razor again, commencing at the point of chin 
 changing your razor to movement No. 1 , 
 shaving down the point of chin to the throat, 
 going' down shaving with the grain. Wipe off 
 your razor, commence at the bottom and shave 
 up with the grain until you meet the place left 
 off in shaving down. Turn the head over 
 gently by placing the left hand back of the 
 

 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MA11UAL. 47 
 
 ears. Shave down the left cheek backhanded 
 using movement No. 2, then change again to 
 movement No. 1, shaving down to point 
 and across the chin, then go back to move- 
 ment No. 2, commencing at the point of chin 
 on the left side same as instructions on shaving 
 the right side, draw straight down the throat 
 with the grain, then you change using move- 
 ment No. 3 on the neck. Let the little finger 
 drop over the handle of razor, holding it with 
 the fore finger and press the thumb on top of 
 the blade. Use this movement in shaving on 
 the neck all the time pushing the razor toward 
 the chin. In shaving the upper lip take razor 
 in position, place your finger against the top 
 of the nose, thumb on the chin. Make gentle 
 strokes, shaving the right toward the left and 
 the same on the left side. If you cannot reach 
 all the hair with motion No. 2, change with 
 your finger stretching the lip and use move- 
 ment No. 1 for finishing the bottom. After 
 you have gone over the face the first time get 
 a clean cloth or towel, wet in warm water and 
 wash the face. It is a matter of taste and 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 49 
 
 practice as to the position in which you hold 
 the towel. Some perform the operation by 
 putting the towel around the face and rubbing, 
 while others take the towel between the first 
 and second finger and wrap it around the hand. 
 But as I have stated before, it is merely a 
 matter of taste and practice with the artist. In 
 shaving the face over the second time take 
 your razor in the right hand and with the two 
 little fingers on the handle, then take your 
 bottle between the first two fingers, putting 
 water on your left hand sufficient enough to 
 get face well moistened for shaving the second 
 time over. In this operation you can shave 
 diagonally against the grain at the same time 
 rubbing the face well and stretching the skin 
 with the fingers of the left hand, feeling for 
 the beard that has been left from the first time; 
 in this the second time you go against the 
 grain, shaving in this manner only when it is 
 the wish of the customer, as it often times 
 makes the face sore, and as it only makes a 
 difference of a couple of hours after being 
 shaved. In shaving the second time over use 
 

 ■:. 
 
 
 •* * 
 
 : 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 51 
 
 mostly movements No. i and 3. After you 
 have finished shaving take and wet your towel 
 tt\ warm water, and lay it across the face, but 
 not covering- the mouth and nose, as it effects 
 their breathing and is very disagreeable; re- 
 peat this operation two or three times if nec- 
 essary. Some patrons are willing to pay 
 extra for hot towels. Now take your bay runv 
 bottle in your left hand, putting bay rum on 
 the face with the right hand, rub gently and 
 then put your towel over the face, the one you 
 have been using, being particular not to pull 
 it out so that the water will not run down the 
 neck, then wipe the face thoroughly dry, using 
 the towel as a fan to assist in drying the face. 
 Then rub the face with the towel until you are 
 thoroughly satisfied it is perfectly dry. Put 
 on your powder, doubling the towel so as to 
 make a puff, straighten your man up in the 
 
 chair and you are now ready to comb his 
 hair, etc 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 53 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS ON HAIR CUTTING. 
 
 In cutting - hair there are no deffinent 
 names settled on as to the different styles of 
 hair cutting. Each supply house gets out a 
 style plate of its own. I herein introduce 
 thirty-six different styles, which will be of 
 great advantage to patrons to select from. I 
 find that the best success is attained by cutting 
 the hair according to the customer's wishes, 
 regardless or style plate or names. It has been 
 my purpose to dispense with clippers as much 
 as possible in teaching hair cutting, as I find 
 that when a new student commences to cut 
 hair; it is so much easier to cut with the clip- 
 pers that he wishes to use them all the time; 
 which is a very bad habit. In cutting hair it 
 is always advisable to leave as much hair on 
 the customer's head as possible. Trim it up 
 nicely with the shears, so that the barber car, 
 get him again as a customer. For example, 
 if he should cut the hair with the clippers in 
 the spring, it would probably be the only hair 
 cut that he could get from that man during the 
 season. While if he trims it around the neck 
 
54 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 and ears he would possibly get to trim that 
 man's hair as often as once a month, right 
 along, and he would also get it dirty, 
 and it would have to be shampooed 
 much more frequent then if he cuts the hair 
 close with the clippers all over the head. It 
 would be no trouble for him to wash his 
 hair every time he washed his face, therefore, 
 ihe barber would loose the chance of Sea 
 Foam or Shampoo. In cutting hair place 
 your hair cloth or apron tight around the neck 
 sitting your customer straight up in the chair. 
 Commence to trim on the right side over the 
 temple and around the ear. Hold your shears 
 with the thumb and third finger of the right 
 hand, comb between the first two fingers and 
 thumb of the left hand. Comb the hair down 
 to straighten it out. Commence trimming 
 across from temple to ear, making it the same 
 on the lower and higher part according to the 
 way the customer wishes it done. Great care 
 should be taken in trimming around the neck, 
 
 Because a good trim around the neck 
 with the razor sets off a hair-cut better 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 55 
 
 YOUTH 
 
 BOY 
 
 GIRL 
 
56 
 
 BRIDGEFORDS REVISED EDITION 
 
 STUDENT 
 LONG BRANCH FULL TRIM 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 
 
 57 
 
 FRONT VIEW 
 
 SQUARE 
 
 ROUND 
 
58 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 SARATOGA 
 VAN DYKE FRONT VAN DYKE SIDE 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 
 
 59 
 
 BURNSIDES WITH MOUSTACHE 
 POMPADOUR WITH Fl v 1 ARD BURNSIDES 
 
V>~ .' V 
 
 nt of No*k , $cci£TY Mo 5 
 
Scotch 
 
 THt/ZvatHTt 
 
 
 AMERICAN 
 
 F*CNCH 
 
 . BACKtSIOt 
 
 fa** of Saratoga 
 
 'OQA AfeA fhoNTor A/?j m 
 
HWSMHUt M^MKtSHOE »bi| " v /fenr /- M».2, 
 
ftATHtfttoes faJSL **o**t Vit**N$%. FioHjVtwdU^ 
 
 
 4 Atoi& 
 
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64 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 than anything else. You might number 
 the hair-cuts in this manner: No. 1, for a 
 close cut with the clippers. No. 2, for a 
 feather edge, or with the clippers around the 
 neck, finishing with the shears. No. 3, for a 
 shingle. No. 4, for a long trim. No. 5, for 
 a bush or a buff cut as known to barbers. I 
 will say something more in regard to hair cut- 
 ting in some of my future lectures. I will take 
 up singeing, dying, blondining and shampoo- 
 ing for my next lecture. 
 
 SEA FOAM, SHAMPOO, ETC. 
 
 Sea-foaming is performed by having 
 your shampoo prepared according to receipt, 
 which you will find in this volume. Put your 
 sea foam on the head and rub it well until it 
 makes a nice thick lather all over the head. In 
 dry shampoo you keep rubbing it with your 
 brush or fingers until the lather naturally 
 evaporates then brush it good and wipe dry, 
 with a clean dry towel. In shampooing use 
 the shampoo paste, or shampoo fluid as the 
 case may be, or as the barber sees fit. Put 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 65 
 
 on your shampoo paste, and water and rub it 
 until you get the hair thoroughly lathered. Be 
 careful to scratch the head well with your fin- 
 gers or brush, getting all the dandruff out of 
 the scalp, Fasten your towel securely around 
 the neck, with the towel over the hair cloth. 
 Secure the fastening so that it will not slip or 
 come loose while the customer is taken to the 
 water stand. Here you rinse his head thor- 
 oughly with nice warm water, rubbing dry 
 with a clean dry towel, while you have cus- 
 tomer still bent over the wash stand. Then 
 sit him back in the chair, again drying 
 the hair. Put on your pomade and comb the 
 hair as usual. 
 
 SINGEING. 
 
 Singeing the hair, although a very sim- 
 ple operation, is claimed by most barbers to 
 be very beneficial to the hair, as they claim it 
 will stop the hair from falling out, and in 
 many cases restore the hair. Singeing is done 
 with a wax or gas taper. Some call them 
 singeing tapers. They are for sale at all gas 
 
<56 bridgkford's revised edition 
 
 fitter's establishments, and barber supply 
 houses. You light the taper and commence 
 singeing the hair usually after cutting the hair 
 and in the same manner. Commence around 
 the bottom being careful to get all the ends 
 singed around the sides and top, more partic- 
 ular on top where the hair is falling out. 
 After the hair is thoroughly singed take youi 
 brush and rub it well to get the burnt ends off, 
 also rub it with your fingers. It is a good 
 idea if you can persuade your customer to 
 have a sea-foam or a shampoo afterward. 
 While we have always been in favor of singe- 
 ing, it is our experience that the most benefi- 
 cial results are obtained by the barber, there- 
 by increasing his profits. Singeing is the same 
 price as a hair cut, or shampoo, when hair- 
 cutting is twenty-five cents, the same charge 
 is made for singeing. 
 
 DYEING THE HAIR. 
 
 Dyeing is also a very simple operation 
 and very profitable to the barber. You "Com- 
 mence dyeing the hair after thoroughly wash- 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 67 
 
 ing it with soap and water, or shampoo, 
 There is several kinds of dye in use, but I am 
 unable to recommend anything equal to the 
 old "lightning" dye. The receipt you have in 
 this book. After you have thoroughly dried 
 the hair put on No. i, combing the hair thor- 
 oughly and when almost dry put on dye 
 No. 2. This instartly turns the hair black 
 and after you have thorougly combed this 
 through the hair, getting it the same all over, 
 then take your fan and dry the hair, care should 
 betaken in combing the No. 2 through the hair. 
 If you should blacken the skin, these spots 
 can be removed by burning common paper 
 and rubbing the black ashes on the same, with 
 a towel across the fingers before washing, 
 then rub the skin where the dye has stained it 
 putting on soap and water and washing 
 it well, after doing this the stains will all 
 disappear. After you have thoroughly dyed 
 and washed it, if there should be small 
 spots or places where it has not stained prop- 
 erly, retouch it again with No. 1, also No. 2, 
 until you get the desired shade. Dry it again 
 
68 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 then put on your pomade, oil, etc., and comb 
 nicely and your job is finished. For this opera- 
 tion you should get from si.oo to $4.00. 
 During" the World's Fair at Chicago, I have 
 known several barbers to charge as high as 
 $15.00 for this operation, the customer not 
 knowing what he was to be charged until the 
 job was finished. At the present time when 
 they think a customer is a stranger in the city 
 and not liable to make any great kick they 
 chargfe. very high prices. 
 
 BLONDI^IITG TH^ HAIR. 
 
 Blondining Iz performed in the same 
 manner as dyeing, but instead of dye you use 
 amonia. After washing the hair well, use 
 weakened amonia. Let the hair dry then 
 comb through it paroxide of hydrogen two or 
 three times daily until the hair has attained 
 the shade you desire. It will be necessary to 
 comb the paroxide of hydrogen through the 
 hair at least once a week to keep the hair the 
 shade you wish it. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 69 
 
 STERILIZATION OF RAZORS. 
 
 Some barber asks information as to an 
 antiseptic solution in which to dip razors. He 
 finds that prparations he has used for this pur- 
 pose corrode the steel. This is a difficulty well 
 known to surgeons, and probably the best way 
 to overcome it is by the use of heat. "Flaming" 
 that is passing- the instrument repeatedly 
 through a flame is ore way of effecting" the 
 destruction of disease germs, but if done 
 thoroughly it ma}" affect the temper of the steel. 
 Boiling in water minimizes this difficulty, and 
 instruments so treated prove efficient as to cut- 
 ting- power. The boiling- must be long continued 
 to prove wholly efficacious with all germs, 
 including their spores; the process may be 
 materially shortened by boiling under pressure 
 so that the temperature of the water is 
 increased; according to Sternberg, at tempera- 
 ture of 221 F. the spores of bacilli will be de- 
 stroyed by an exposure of ten minutes, and at 
 a temperature of 230 F. the same result is 
 attained in one or two minutes. Boiling steel 
 
70 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 in pure water, however, causes rusting to guard 
 against this about i per cent of pure sodium 
 carbonate is added to the water. Complaints 
 having been made that this was not always 
 efficacious, Dr. Edward Andrews undertook 
 some experiment some years ago regarding 
 it on which he reported in the Journal of the 
 American Medical Association. Plates of 
 polished steel well washed with either to re- 
 move all oily matter from the surface, plates 
 of aluminium and several scalpels with handles 
 of different metals (so chosen to ascertain if 
 galvanic action was a factor in the operation) 
 were boiled in water with and without the 
 addition of sodium carbonate, soap and other 
 agents. From these experiments the author 
 drew the following conclusions: i. Hot dis- 
 tilled water and steam rapidly rust steel instru- 
 ments. 2. One per cent, solutions of soap 
 and sodium carbonate almost perfectly protect 
 steel instruments, provided they are completely 
 immersed in the fluid. 3. If instruments lie in 
 a shallow boiling pan and are not fully covered 
 with the protective -fluid, and a cover or towel 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 71 
 
 is laid over them, the portions projecting 
 above the fluid will only get a steam bath and 
 will rapidly rust. This is the accident which has 
 caused some to think there is no uniformity, 
 about the action of protective fluids in prevent- 
 ing rust. The fluids themselves will not cause 
 oxidation, but the steam rising from them will 
 easily corrode steel. The boiling process 
 while simpler than immersion in solutions of 
 antiseptics is probably more certain in its 
 effects. 
 
 RAZORS. 
 
 The barber shaves with a polished blade, 
 
 While the milliner shaves when ladies trade 
 The banker shaves at ten per cent ; 
 
 While the landlord shaves in raising rent, 
 The doctor shaves in draughts and pills, 
 
 While the druggist shaves in pints and gills; 
 The politician shaves the nation. 
 
 The preacher shaves for all salvation ; 
 The broker shaves in cashing notes ; 
 
 While the farmer shaves in corn and oats ; 
 The lawyer shaves both friends and foes, 
 
 The pedler shaves where e'er he goes, 
 The wily merchant shaves his brother, 
 
 In fact you all shave one another. 
 
72 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 GOOD ADVICE TO BARBERS. 
 
 Because you have been running- a "cheap" 
 shop is no reason why you should so continue. 
 Because you have only been running two 
 chairs heretofore, is no reason why you should 
 not be running three, four or five by the end 
 of the year. Because you have been making 
 only $20.00 per week last year, is no reason 
 why your profits this year should not average 
 twice as much or more. 
 
 As a beginning, sit down for a moment 
 and look around your shop. Is it spotlessly 
 clean? Are all the tools neatly arranged, 
 bottles well filled and hair-cutting cloths neat- 
 ly folded and hung" upon the chairs? Are the 
 chairs attractive to the eye, comfortable to the 
 occupant and up-to- date? Have you a regu- 
 lar mirror case, or are you still clinging to the 
 old-fashioned looking glass and bracket? 
 
 Questioning yourself in this way, and 
 carefully looking into the numerous details 
 that make up a successful barber shop, we are 
 satisfied that you will find something that can 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 73 
 
 be improved upon. There is surely something 
 that can be done to make each year more 
 prosperous. 
 
 We are reminded of a conversation held 
 a short time ago. with a barber from a larcre 
 Texas town. When we had the pleasure of 
 meeting him, he was in a very restless frame 
 of mind. He said for years he had been run- 
 ning a three chair barber shop, which was 
 located in the residence part of the city in 
 which he lived. He was doing a fair business, 
 and as long as it did not grow less from year 
 to year he had been satisfied, but, said he, "it 
 suddenly dawned upon me that although the 
 city had been rapidly building up around me, 
 my trade had not increased at all. I awaken- 
 ed to the fact that my weekly receipts are just 
 about the same now as they were four years 
 ago. I began to study the situation, and very 
 soon learned that people in the neighborhood 
 were walking right past my door and patron- 
 izing a fellow two blocks up the street. He 
 had started up about a year ago and I had not 
 paid much attention to him, but when I began 
 
74 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 to compare his shop with my own, I had to 
 admit there was a difference. His shop was 
 by far the more attractive, and you can 
 depend upon it that first impressions go along 
 way; but I've put in modern chairs now and 
 a bright new mirror case, and the boys all 
 wear white coats, and I guess we'll stop those 
 people from walking past the door hereafter." 
 This man woke up. Probably you, too, 
 are doing well enough, but could you not dc 
 better? Are there any customers walking 
 past your door? 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 75 
 
 THE BARBERS' TRADE AS A LIFE CALLING. 
 
 There are few trades offering better in- 
 ducements than that of the barber. Every- 
 where in the civilized world he readily finds 
 employment. It is not at all likely that the 
 barbers trade will to any great extent ever be 
 interfered with by machinery. The barber 
 commands a good salary and steady imploy- 
 ment. He is constantly surrounded by the 
 current news of the day and always has time 
 to read and keep abreast with the progress of 
 the wold. Barbers wages in the United States 
 run from ten to eighteen dollars a week, owing 
 to locality and other conditions. 
 
76 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 A GOOD SUGGESTION TO THE BARBER. 
 
 The disadvantages of learning 1 the bar- 
 bers' trade in the shop are more numerous by 
 far than is the case in any other trade; the 
 principal one, however, is the useless length 
 of time required to secure the necessary prac- 
 tice. This is due to the fact that in no other 
 trade does it require that pain must be suffered 
 by the practice subject in order that the ap- 
 prentice may learn it, and since practice can 
 be had only at the cost of pain, the securing 
 of practice becomes the chief problem of teach- 
 ing- the trade, and for this reason there are 
 but few men who will ever submit themselves 
 as practice subjects for the apprentice and pay 
 for the work besides; and in a barber shop 
 where all are supposed to pay for their work, 
 men are generally to proud to become practice 
 subjects in sonsideration of free service. 
 Therefore, most of the practice had in a bar- 
 ber shop is secured only by concealing the fact 
 that the workman is.an apprentice, and to hide 
 this fact from outward observation, the pro- 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MAI1UAL. 77 
 
 prietor seldom goes about die apprentice to 
 study and direct his movements, and which is 
 the ouly time that instructions in teaching the 
 barbers' trade are of any value, and therefore 
 the shop proprietor is precluded from per- 
 forming his duties as an instructor. A patron 
 finding himself thus imposed upon, is always 
 liable to remonstrate against the deception, 
 and the apprentice is therefore usually nervous 
 and unfitted for receiving the benefit of his 
 practice. Under these circumstances the in- 
 structions are very infrequent and much that 
 is recived by way of instruction at one time is 
 forgotten by the next. By computing the 
 time occupied in actual work at -the chair dur- 
 ing the usual appreticeship, it is found in most 
 cases not to exceed three months. To avoid 
 serving these years of misdirected drudgery, 
 and the other numerous drawbacks, the barber 
 school was established in many of the leading 
 capitals of Europe for the purpose of teaching 
 the trade, and where it has proved to be the 
 most gracious liberator of shop drudges of all 
 the trade-schools yet known and is therefore 
 
78 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 greatly encouraged. The barber school of 
 Berlin, Germany, catalogued 399 students in 
 1885, and another at Prague, Austria, listed 
 as high as 107 students in 1888. Two barber 
 schools were established by private enterprise 
 in the City of Brussels in 1897 and have been 
 subsidized by the Belgian government. 
 
 Mr. Richard T. Auchmuty, an able 
 American authority on the subject of trade 
 education, has stated the situation very pre- 
 cisely, and in a few words. He says: "One 
 of the accepted theories of the trades-union is 
 the advantage to be derived from limiting the 
 number of workers. Instead of the fact that 
 work makes work, that one busy class gives 
 employment to other classes, it is assumed 
 that there is a certain amount of work to be 
 done and the fewer there is to do it the higher 
 wages will be. It is therefore sought to make 
 each trade into a monopoly; although these 
 efforts have been uniformally unsuccessful, 
 they have marred the lives of thousands of 
 young men, and stilTcontinue to do so. Could 
 the opposition of the trades-unions be over- 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MAI1UAL. jg 
 
 come, a great source of wealth would be 
 opened to those now approaching- manhood. 
 The effect of this policy is a matter of indiffer- 
 ence to the trade unionist, for he cares but 
 little for the future; he looks only to the num- 
 ber of dollars it is possible to extract from a 
 day's work. He willingly surrenders his liber- 
 ty and judgement to his union officers, who 
 generally turn it to business or political profit 
 for themselves," 
 
 General impressions go along way in this 
 world. A man may have some particular 
 hobby and imagine, for instance, that he is 
 not being properly shaved if the razor is not 
 held in a certain position, or travels in a speci- 
 fied direction, or is not stropped a certain 
 number of times between the first and second 
 goings over. He may have some particular 
 idea upon some particular subject which he 
 uses as a guage of the grade of barber shop 
 he is in, but such a man is the exception and 
 not the rule. The average man has a guage 
 which he applies, but you will find that nine 
 
80 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 times out of ten his eye rests first upon the 
 barber's chair. If he sees an old fashioned, 
 uncomfortable chair, a general feeling of dis- 
 satisfaction creeps over him. He begins to 
 feel that the soap you use is not good, that 
 your razors pull and that your after-shaving 
 preparation is not pleasant. All this before he 
 puth himself under your care. The sight of 
 the old fashioned chair starts him off in a crit- 
 ical, dissatisfied frame of mind. But if he sees, 
 a modern, up-to-date, bright, comfortable 
 looking chair, the result is just the opposite. 
 He does not look for trouble and is not in a. 
 criticising mood. Of course the soap is good, 
 of course the razor is perfect, and the after- 
 shaving lotion just suits him. He starts in on 
 the right tract and there's everything in the 
 start one gets always. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 01 
 
 PERSONAL MAGNETISM. 
 
 Before closing this book of instructions 
 to barbers, I wish to make some observations 
 on the subject of Personal Magnetism as a 
 very valuable aid to the tonsorial artist, from a 
 social as well as a financial standpoint. Any 
 one who, but causually observes, knows there 
 is an immense difference in the attractive and 
 repulsive qualities of different individuals. 
 Some draw to them a host of friends whom 
 they seem to absolutly control; others repel 
 and arouse antagonism in most every one they 
 meet. The first named class of people are 
 usually successful in every aim of life and the 
 other class are alway wondering why they are 
 such failures in every avenue of life. The dif- 
 ference in these two classes is all due to the 
 presence or absence of that potent and 
 somewhat mysterious quality called pesonal 
 magnetism. Now what is personal magnet- 
 ism? We answer, * it simply means psychic 
 influence or technically, hypnotic power. 
 It is the influence of mind over mind. 
 
82 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 The person who posseses personal magnet- 
 ism is consciously or unconsciously a 
 hypnotist. It may not be generally known 
 that this power can be acquired and also that 
 any sane person can learn it, and no one can 
 exercise it more potently than the barber, be- 
 cause, by the very necessities of his profession 
 is compelled to come in close physical contact 
 with his patrons. Manipulation about the head 
 is part and parcel of hypnotic methods and no 
 one in the world has a better chance to hyp- 
 notice than the barber, and he can exercise 
 this power without his subject knowing it. 
 Nine tenths of the people are subject to the 
 influence of personal magnetism or hypnotism 
 and in this progressive age no business man 
 can well afford to be without a scientific 
 knowledge of it. A weak person who 
 has mastered this science can control persons 
 much stronger than himself. The author 
 of this book is a graduate of one of the great- 
 est psychic institutions in America, and has 
 
 given years to the investigation and practice 
 of personal magnetism and all hypnotic phe- 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 83 
 
 nomena such as hypnotism for parlor enter- 
 tainments, hypnotism for the stage, hypnotism 
 for the cure of all bad habits, hypnotism for 
 the cure of all diseases, hypnotism for dental 
 surgery, hypnotism for surgery and as a thera- 
 peutic agent, hypnotism for social, educational 
 or business advancement; also all about mag- 
 netic healing; all about clairvoyance; how to 
 diagnose diseases without asking a question 
 also how to look into the present, past and 
 future of any individual. In short how to 
 make a success of life in every particular. 
 We will ask you to try the following experi- 
 ment in proof of the reality of personal mag- 
 netism. Suppose a person comes to you with 
 the headache. You will say to him I will 
 cure you without medicine; all I ask of you is 
 to close your eyes and let me stroke your head 
 for a few moments and your headache will 
 certainly pass away. Now stroke his head 
 gently, backward and downward from the 
 middle of the forehead to the region of the 
 temples, while you will with all possible 
 mental energy that his headache shall cease, 
 
84 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 and ninty-nine cases out of a hundred you 
 should relieve or cure your patient. Try this 
 and then take a course in personal magnetism, 
 and hypnotism and learn how to perform a 
 thousand very useful, profitable and instructive 
 experiments. Will you do it? Our new book 
 of instructions gives you every advanced 
 method of psychic science; and when you 
 master its contents, which are plain and sim- 
 ply given, go forth into the world and in the 
 language of the Emperor Constantine: "In 
 this sign I conquor, " or in the words of 
 Ceasar you can say: "Veni vidi vici". "I 
 came, I saw, I conquered." So barber if you 
 would succeed and in your business quickly 
 speed, learn how to exercise control of other 
 minds, thus reach your goal. 
 
 «j£ 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL, 
 
 TO HAVE FINE THICK HAIR. 
 
 Curiously enough, women, as a rule, do 
 not take proper care of their scalps and hair. 
 The scalp, like the pores of the face, must be 
 kept clean to be in a healthy condition. The 
 head, if inclined to be oily, should be washed 
 every week in summer time, if not, once in 
 two weeks will do. The growth of hair in a 
 health)' scalp is from eight to ten inches a 
 year, growing faster in summer than in winter. 
 The hair stretches in wet weather and shrinks 
 in dry, which is the cause of artificially curied 
 hair becoming straight in moist air. 
 
 If you use the curling irons during the 
 summer, be sure to supply the follicies with a 
 little extra nourishment in the way of a bril- 
 liantine to make up for that which the heat 
 abstracts. 
 
86 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 The two following recipes furnish the 
 best possible emollients, the first of which is 
 non-greasy: 
 
 Lavender water, - i ounce 
 
 Glycerine, - - i ounce 
 
 Clarified honey, - 2 ounces 
 
 Rectified spirits, - 4 ounces 
 
 First mix the honey and glycerine, then 
 add the lavender water or eau de cologne and 
 last of all the spirits. 
 
 The second recipe is intended to give a 
 more or less glossy appearance to the hair, as 
 well as to strengthen it. 
 
 Castor oil, - - 2 drams 
 
 Rectified spirits, - 5 ounces 
 
 Attar of roses to perfume, 
 
 Tincture of cochineal, 2 drams 
 
 The best way of using these preparations 
 is to put a few drops into the palm of the hand 
 and then rub the bristles of the brush across 
 it, and so apply to the hair. 
 
 All greasy preparations, it must be re- 
 membered, will darken the hair, as will also 
 too constant and frepuent brushing; therefore > 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 87 
 
 those whose hair is very light should use the 
 brush with moderation, employing- a bomb 
 with coarse, smooth teeth for the ventilation 
 and disentanglement of their tresses. 
 
 Again, white of an egg, though excellent 
 for cleansing- tne hair tends to darken it. 
 Those who have blonde, light brown, auburn 
 or chestnut hair will do best to wash their hair 
 with borax and warm water — an even teaspoon- 
 ful of the former to a teacup of the latter. 
 Rub this into the roots of the hair with a piece 
 of clean flannel until every particle bi dan- 
 druff has been removsd. Then dry it thor- 
 oughly, allowing it to hang loose for an hour 
 or two, and the next day — not the same re- 
 member — rinse with warm water first, then in 
 cold, and again dry thoroughly — in the sun, if 
 possible — and finally comb gently with a 
 coarse-toothed comb. 
 
 This simple wash should not be used oftner 
 than once a month. Borax should on no ac- 
 count be used by those whose hair is gray or 
 white, as it will tinge the hair yellow A little 
 indigo put into the rinsing water for gray hair 
 
88 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 imparts to it a most clean and beautiful ap- 
 pearance and in no way injures it. 
 
 Brunettes can do no better than to use the 
 rosemary wash, which not only cleanses but 
 checks any falling out, especially if this is oc- 
 casioned by excessive heat of the scalp, or 
 severe headaches. 
 
 Boil from six to eight minutes one pound of 
 rosemary leaves in a quart of water, staining 
 and adding a lump of champhor, and if the 
 hair is inclined to be dry, a teaspoonful of co- 
 coanut or olive oil. 
 
 Ammonia should be omitted from any recipe 
 if the scalp is very dry. During the hot 
 weather many people suffer from loss of hair, 
 due to over heated heads which weaken the 
 scalp. If this occurs, use the following hair 
 wash every morning for a week, then three 
 times a week: 
 
 Oil of sweet almonds - i ounce 
 Spirits of chloroform - i ounce 
 
 Laurel water - - i ounce 
 
 Spirits of rosemary - i ounce 
 
 Mix these ingredients carefully and dab 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 89 
 
 amonor the roots of the hair; a diminution in 
 the fall will follow after a few days applica- 
 tion. 
 
 To counteract the dryness and dandruff 
 characteristic with so many heads of hair use 
 the sage tea emollient; 
 
 Sage leaves (freshly gathered when 
 possible) - - 1-4 pound 
 
 Boiling water - i pint 
 
 Stand on one side for a day and a half, then 
 strain through filter-paper and add; 
 
 Glycerine - - i ounce 
 
 Spirits of rosemary - i ounce 
 
 Camphor - - 1-4 ounce 
 
 Use daily two weeks, and at night massage 
 
 the scalp with the promade below, putting a 
 
 small piece on the finger and kneading into 
 
 the roots. 
 
 Sulphate of quinine - 12 grains 
 
 Tincture of capsicum 1 drachm 
 
 Soft wool fat compound 1 ounce 
 
 To prevent the hair falling after severe 
 
 headache, excessive prespiration, or weakness 
 
 of the scalp caused by illness, try the following 
 
go bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 lotion, which must be well rubbed into the 
 roots of the hair three or four times a week 
 for a month or six weeks. 
 
 Eau de cologne, - 8 ounces 
 
 Tincture of jarborandi, - i ounce 
 Oil of lavender, - i drachm 
 
 Oil of rosemary, - \ drachm 
 
 A soft bristle brush and a course, blunt 
 comb are the only things that ought to be 
 used on the hair. Violence breaks, splits and 
 loosens the hairs, causing them to fall out. 
 Never use a fine tooth comb; it irritates the 
 scalp and frequently leads to disease. When- 
 ever the hair looks ragged at the ends, cut off 
 about an inch every new moon. This 
 strengthens it. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. gi 
 
 DERMATOLOGY. 
 
 Diseases affecting- the skin. Some are 
 of trifling character; others are symptomatic 
 of grave internal derangements and are difrl- 
 cult to cure. Many resemble each other and 
 mistakes of identification are apt to occur. 
 
 That branch of science which treats of 
 the skin and its diseases. The appearances 
 of cutaneous diseases are very varied, but the 
 usual classification, both in this country and 
 abroad, is that of Willau and Bateman, com- 
 prising eight orders: — (i) Papulae, or pimples; 
 (2) Squamae, or scales; (3) Exanthemata, or 
 rashes; (4) Bullae, or blebs, minature blisters; 
 (5) Pustulae, or pustules; (6) Vesiculae, or 
 vesicles; (7) Tuberculae, or tubercles, (8) 
 Maculae, or spots. Dr. Aitkin gives the fol- 
 lowing as the more common diseases of the 
 skin: — Erythema, urticaria, nettlerash, lichen, 
 psoriasis, herpes, pemphigus or pompholyx, 
 eczema, ecthyma, acne. The parasitic diseases 
 are ringworm, or tinea tonsurans, favus, and 
 itch or scabies. Many of these appear in 
 
g2 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 combination, or as symptoms of general, con- 
 stitutional, or febrile diseases; and, in addition 
 to these, having various forms of cutaneous 
 manifestation, are syphilis, purpura, leprosy, 
 scurvy, and the like, with bronzed-skin or 
 Addison's disease (q. v.). But the classifica- 
 tions are endless. 
 
 Under this head we will make a few re- 
 marks and give a few of the best formulas in 
 use for the cure of diseases most liable to come 
 before the barber. We wish to state rigfht 
 here that after 30 years in the barber business 
 we have failed so far, to have one case, so- 
 called barber itch, called to our special atten- 
 tion, therefore we think a great deal of the 
 manifestations made by the Board of barber 
 Eaxminers, and the Board of Health is unnec- 
 essary. Cleanliness is next to godliness. There- 
 fore if you keep your strops, razor and every- 
 thing else connected with your shop clean, you 
 will have no trouble with any of the contagious 
 diseases. We find out that the best sterilizing 
 agents are soap and water, soap being an anti- 
 septic. However, the utmost care and caution 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 93 
 
 should be used after shaving- one afflicted with 
 sores or eruptions. The razor should be 
 immediatly emreged in hot water and soap suds 
 and thoroughly polished with a chamois 
 skin or towel. This, however, should be done 
 with all of your razors. Polish them every 
 day thereby preventing them from becoming- 
 rusty. This should be done when you are 
 through work at night. This precaution being 
 taken, I will guarantee there will be no spread 
 of contagious diseases. These formulas that 
 we introduce here for the cure of baber itch, 
 pimpler, eruptions, etc. are obtained from the 
 best authorities on this subject, therefore we 
 can recommend them without hesitancy as 
 being the best curative agency of the present 
 day. 
 
94 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 APPLICATIONS FOB ROUGHENED SKIN. 
 
 For a good general emollient there is 
 nothing probably better than glycerine; but it 
 should alway be diluted before application, as 
 if used too freely a' 'stickiness" results which is 
 quite disagreeable. If the glycerine is sold un- 
 diluted for toilet use, the customer should re- 
 ceive instructions to put a few drops on his 
 hands, for instance, while they are yet wet 
 from washing, and then distribute evenly over 
 the surface by rubbing, allow them to dry 
 without the use of a towel. As a lotion for 
 use in the ordinary way, the following is con- 
 venient: 
 
 Glycerine - i Part 
 
 Rose water - 9 Parts 
 
 Plain water may, of course, be used as the 
 dilutent, but a slightly prefumed pre- 
 paration is generally considered more desira- 
 ble. The perfume may easily be obtained by 
 dissolving a very small proportion of hand- 
 kerchief ''extract" or some essential oil in the 
 glycerine, and then mixing with plain water. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 95 
 
 If it is desired to tint the liquid, this may be 
 done by a minute quantity of cochineal color- 
 ing-, N. F., which will give a pink tint. Care 
 must be taken not to use enough to cause 
 staining of the skin. For a toilet cream 
 adapted for dispensing in either collapsible 
 tubes or in glass jars, the official glycerite of 
 starch will answer. It is scarcely necessary to 
 say that this is made simply by stiring to- 
 gether 10 grams of starch, 80 of glycerine and 
 10 c. c. of water, and heating gently until a 
 jelly is formed. This jelly may, of course, be 
 perfumed if desired. A little perfume is 
 rather desirable, but an excess should be 
 avoided. Many of the essential oils are suit- 
 able for perfumes in this case, as are also 
 handkerchief extracts. Another cosmetic is 
 the so-called glycerine jelly, which may be 
 made as follows. 
 
 Flake tragacanth, selected 1 dr 
 
 Water - 2 ozs 
 
 Glycerine - 2 ozs 
 
 Place the tragacanth in the water, stir from 
 
 time to time until a perfectly smooth mucilage 
 
g6 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 results and then incorporate with it the gly- 
 cerine. As straining a mucilage of tragacanth 
 is difficult if not impracticable without the use 
 of a strong press, the operator should en- 
 deavor to avoid a necessity for it, by using 
 only the best articles of flake tragacanth, 
 being careful to pick out pieces which are free 
 from any specks of foreign material. If it be 
 necessary, however to use gum the mucilage 
 
 from which will require straining, a large ex- 
 cess of water may be employed, and this ex- 
 cess subsequently driven off on a water bath. 
 Ihe first procedure will presumably be the 
 more satisfactory, at least for a small quantity. 
 The formula given above yields a preparation 
 which is quite firm; it may, of course, be ren- 
 dered more fluid by the addition of either or 
 both liquids. The jelly may be scented, if 
 desired, by a few drops of oil of rose or other 
 appropriate perfume, and a pink or read color- 
 given to it by cochineal coloring. An emol- 
 lient tablet which has proved satisfactory, may 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 97 
 
 be prepared by the following formula: 
 
 Mutton suet 18 ozs 
 
 Spermaceti - 12 ozs 
 
 White wax - 12 ozs 
 
 Oil of rose geranium - 3 drs 
 
 Melt together by a gentle heat, reserving 
 the addition of the oil until the other ingredi- 
 ents are liquified, on account of its volatility, 
 stir well as the mixture begins to cool, con- 
 tinuing until ready to set, when pour into 
 molds. Yellow wax is preferable to white, the 
 latter having a somewhat rancid odor. If a 
 white preparation is desired, the wax must 
 necessarily be white, and if a pink or red tint 
 is wanted, the wax should also be white. The 
 color may be given by infusing alkanet in 
 a portion of the suet. The quantities given 
 above will make from 24 to 26 tablets if cast 
 in molds of 15-8 by 2 5-8 inches square and 
 7-8 inch deep; a convenient and desirable size. 
 The best material for the molds is block tin. 
 Their form should be a pan, as indicated in the 
 statement for measurement, the top side en- 
 tirely open, and they should taper very slightly 
 
98 bridghford's revised edition 
 
 on the side from bottom to top. A desirable 
 arrangement is to have them so placed in a tray 
 that they may be surrounded by cold water. 
 The chief use of the tray is to enable the 
 molds to be chilled before casting, which ren- 
 ders adhesion of the tablets much less likely. 
 Much cheaper though less elegant molds may 
 be made of tinned iron, and the tray may be 
 dispensed with. The usual way for putting up 
 such tablets is to wrap them first in thin 
 smooth paper, then in an outer covering of tin 
 foil, and lastly to enclose in a paper box. 
 
 We wish to add in addition to the above 
 article that there is no other preparation for 
 roughened skin and chapped hands than our 
 cream of roses or nothing better to be used 
 after shaving" • It is cooling" and its curitive or 
 medicinal properties are phenominal. We 
 would not think of continuing in the barber 
 business without this preparation on hand for 
 sale, it is easy prepared; keeps well and if 
 displayed in small bottles with a nice showy 
 lable. You will be surprised at the amount 
 you will sell; especially in the fall of the year. 
 I will not hesitate to say that I have sold 
 hundred of dollars worth. You can do the 
 same. It is my intention that this article will 
 be useful to you. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 99 
 
 THE MASSAGE. 
 
 There is an old story of an irreverent 
 child, who, on being punished for some mis- 
 deed by a supper of bread and water, phil- 
 osophically remarked, ''This is a good thing 
 for the digestion." On being whipped for 
 such impertinence she placidly observed, 
 "This is a good thing for the circulation." 
 The ability or reasoning so correctly is not 
 always vouchsafed to us early in life, but in 
 later years we learn that good circulation and 
 good digestion are generally the fruit of the 
 hardships rather than the "softships" of ex- 
 istence. It is true that in moments of great 
 gladness the blood circulates quickly. You 
 feel it going up in a big wave to the face in an 
 instant, and down to the feet in the next, as 
 though every drop were running and leaping 
 and praising God. But excitement, even the 
 most pleasurable, has its period of reaction — 
 exhaustion. Most of the days in the year are 
 not exciting, and those who are troubled with 
 L.efC. 
 
IOO BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 pale faces and cold extremities, who are chilly 
 between the shoulders and shiver over the fire 
 in bad weather, often wish they could discover 
 something' permanently good for the circula- 
 tion. Exercise is of course the great correct- 
 ive, but indoor exercise does not seem to 
 remove the trouble. Who has not heard a 
 woman remark over her sewing, 44 I thought it 
 was a warm day when I was stirring about 
 this morning, but now it seems actually chilly." 
 Even after the brisk run so highly recom- 
 mended for chronic chilliness, there is sure to 
 be a rapid ebbing away of acquired warmth in 
 the resultant fatieue. What is wanted is some 
 method whereby the blood may be induced to 
 flow to the cold blue-veined feet as habitually 
 and abundantly as it runs to the usually over- 
 heated head. Some form of friction— rubbing, 
 beating, pinching, slapping or kneading— is the 
 best for this purpose, because it does not leave 
 one tired out, but rather rested and refreshed. 
 It is the operator who is tired. 
 
 To lie on a couch swathed in blankets, 
 from which now an upper limb, now a lower 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. IOI 
 
 limb is withdrawn, pale and dead-lookin, and 
 tucked back warm and glowing, and to have 
 the back, abdomen and chest scientifically and 
 delightfully belabored is to feel that your pro- 
 fessional nurse has richly earnad your dollar 
 an hour. But in the country, where dollars 
 and professional nurses are not very plentiful, 
 it would seem as if delicate people might pro- 
 fitably try self-treatment. Julius Caesar, we 
 are told, had himself pinched for neuralgia. 
 Had he been a less lofty persorage he might 
 have been reduced to the necessity of being 
 his own pincher, and doubtless in that case 
 the pinching would have been as thoroughly 
 done. This sounds trivial, but chere is more 
 in it than at first might appear. One of that 
 numerous class of women who are ''just able 
 to drag themselves around," found that gen- 
 eral stagnation was apparently her great 
 trouble. She felt dull, heavy, lethargic, and 
 even a short walk left her very tired. She 
 procured a work on massage and practiced on 
 herself a little at a time as she was able, always 
 in a well ventilated room and well warmed in 
 
io2 bridgeford'sJrevised edition 
 
 winter. It has proved the very best of tonics, 
 and she nows enjoys that sense of elasticity 
 and aliveness in every fiber which indicates a 
 close approach to a state of ideal health. 
 
 Massage can never take the place of ac- 
 tive exercise, but it fits one to enjoy and get 
 the later without danger of that great result- 
 ant fatigue which is the bugbear of so many 
 weakly people. And in times of seemingly 
 over-work and exhaustion, "a good rubbing 
 down" is certainly as beneficial to the human 
 frame as to the favorite race horse on the turf. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. IO3 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS TOR FACIAL MASSAGE AND 
 FOR ITS SCIENTIFIC APPLICATION. 
 
 A Facial Massage, from a barber's stand 
 point of view, is generally given after shaving, 
 commencing with hot towels, making as many 
 applications with the hot wet towels as you 
 think the face can possibly stand, (bath towels 
 are the best for this purpose, as they hold the 
 heat longer,) using your judgment and con- 
 sulting the wishes of your patient or customer, 
 as some people can stand more hot towels 
 than others. After you have the face thor- 
 oughly sweated and warmed up by the towels, 
 then you apply the massage — a very good and 
 simple formula for making, will be found 
 among the recipes in toilet department of this 
 book. You will apply the massage prepara- 
 tion to the face, after using the hot towels, 
 letting the massage have time to set to the 
 face. The idea now is to rub lightly with the 
 fingers until the massage rolls off in rolls, 
 which will take with it all the dirt and other 
 impurities, such as blackheads, blotches, etc., 
 
104 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 that may be in the pores or on the outside 
 surface of the skin. Then begin the manipu- 
 lating- process with fingers and hands. Gently 
 manipulate the face thoroughly until massage 
 preparation has rolled off, then you commence 
 to manipulate across from the center of the 
 forehead clown across the temples; then place 
 the fingers over the eyes, draw down toward 
 the ears over the nose with fingers and thumb, 
 and then across the chin back towards the 
 neck, making different manipulations, and 
 raising the skin generally with the tips of the 
 fingers, until the face becomes thoroughly 
 heated and the blood is brought to the sur- 
 face, making it a scarlet hue. The object in 
 this is to bring the blood to the surface and 
 thoroughly open up all the pores of the skin. 
 The massage is supposed to take away all the 
 impurities from the outside surface. Exer- 
 cising the facial muscles and increasing the 
 circulation of the blood, and telegraphing so 
 to speak the blood from one nerve center to 
 another at its proper ratio, is where the bene- 
 fit is supposed to be derived. A massage 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. IO5 
 
 properly given, according to these instruc- 
 tions, will in a short time, make a wrinkled 
 f ice appear smooth as in youth. 
 
 Now rub the hands together, creating a 
 friction, which causes the hands to become 
 warm; then draw the hands down over the 
 face from the forehead with quick trembling 
 motions. This is called the magnetic treat- 
 ment and is claimed by many to be far super- 
 ior to the electric massage given by the elec- 
 tric motor machine, as in this way you get the 
 benefit of the vital magnetism. 
 
 Place the hands in a position to fit over 
 the face and across the chin; then pat the face 
 gently, creating an air suction between the 
 hands and face. This takes the place of the 
 suction cup; pressing the cheek up between 
 the thumb and fingers of each hand, will make 
 the cheeks red and rosy, making a quick mo- 
 tion with the palm of the hand across the fore- 
 head and gently pressing around the temples 
 will oftentimes relieve a very severe headache. 
 
 Now you are ready for the ice or cold 
 towels. In extreme cases where the face is 
 
106 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 very much wrinkled, it is recommended to use 
 ice towels, but in ordinary cases, cold wet 
 towels will do. This closes up the pores of 
 the skin and takes away all the little wrinkles, 
 or what is called "crow's feet" that settle 
 around the corners of the eyes, and makes the 
 skin feel smooth. 
 
 You should endeavor to make the mas- 
 sage as pleasant as possible for your cus- 
 tomer. Don't be rough, but handle the face 
 as easy as possible. Impress upon his mind 
 the benefits derived and induce the customer 
 to take them as often as possible. 
 
 When you have finished with the cold 
 towels, then dry the face thoroughly, and use 
 some eood lotion, such as Cream of Roses, 
 the recipe for making same will be found in 
 the recipe department of this book, or some 
 nice toilet water. Dry the face, using talcum 
 powder for finish. 
 
 Now if you can, induce your customer to 
 take the scalp treatment. This is done with 
 massage roller, by placing a light towel over 
 the hair; then you rub gently with the mas- 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. IO/ 
 
 sage roller all over the head, creating a kind 
 of counter irritation, bringing the blood to 
 the roots of the hair, after which you give the 
 scalp a good rubbing with the ends of your 
 fingers, rubbing the scalp all over, behind the 
 ears, down on the neck and across the tem- 
 ples all through the hair until you have thor- 
 oughly created a good circulation of the blood 
 at the roots. This rejuvenates the roots of 
 the hair and puts it in a healthy condition. 
 Use a kind of pressure movement so as to not 
 rub the hair off the head, as some men have 
 very very little and do not want to have it 
 rubbed off. Now use some good tonic or 
 pomade, rubbing the hair dry, after which, 
 you are ready to dress or comb your custom- 
 er's hair. 
 
 It is always well to try to make these 
 treatments as pleasant as possible. Jolly 
 your customer along making him feel he is 
 getting the worth of his money, and receiving 
 great benefit from this treatment, which will 
 be the case if you administer the treatment ac- 
 cording to these instructions which we have 
 
ioS 
 
 BKIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 tried to make so plain and simple that anyone 
 who can read can understand them. If you 
 cannot obtain the massage roller in your home 
 town, and wish one, we will furnish it to you 
 
 at a nominal figure. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MA11UAL. IOg 
 
 MANICURING. 
 
 The professional cure or treatment of the 
 hands and nails. To attend to the hand and 
 nails. Treating- the blemishes of the former 
 and trimming and polishing- the latter, etc. 
 Quite an important side line in connection 
 with the barber business is a manicuring- and 
 chiropodist department. This department 
 should be a room fitted up for that purpose 
 with a few manicuring" tools, which is all that 
 is necessary. A little practice will make you 
 proficient and you will be surprised at the 
 amount of money that you will make in this 
 line. There is always some one to operate 
 upon and always some one who is wishing to 
 have work done if you have the tools to attend 
 to same properly. We give you a number of 
 recipes in this book which will enable you to 
 carry on the business successfully. Alboline 
 Oil is used for the massage, rubbing and tak- 
 ing off the blemishes preparatory to treating 
 the nails. It is also well to have some glycer- 
 ine and lemon juice to take off the spots on 
 
HO BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 the hands. The lormulas found in this book 
 are known to be the best preparations for the art 
 of manicuring. Some people are subject more 
 than others to the inconvenience and disfigure- 
 ment of what are termed ' 'hang nails" which 
 when attempted to be torn off, causes Severn 
 pain. Various methods are resorted to for re- 
 moving these pieces of flesh. Some bite them 
 off, others cut and clip them, and others, again 
 use the nails of the opposite hand. The best 
 way is to loosen the membrane from the nail 
 with some blunt instrument and afterward with 
 a pair of pointed scissors to clip away the rag- 
 o-ed flesh. When tbe membrane is too long, 
 that is, when it grows up too high on the nail, 
 it should be pressed back with a blunt instru- 
 ment and clipped off with a pair of curved 
 scissors. Every day when the hands are be- 
 ine dried, the flesh at the base of the nail 
 should be pressed back. If necessary, lift it 
 previsously with an ivory manicure instrument. 
 Care must be taken not to treat the the nail 
 roughly or the risk of injuring the nail at the 
 root is insured. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MAI1UAL. Ill 
 
 CHIROPODIST. 
 
 To remove Corns and Warts: 
 
 Gum Camph - | oz 
 
 Chi. Hydrate - h Dr 
 
 Chloroform - 20 Drops 
 
 Put small amount on each wart or corn; if 
 the wart is large, a lump about the size of a 
 pea will be required. Light this with a match 
 when it gets so hot that the person can't stand 
 it longer blow out then lio-ht acrain so on until 
 corn or wart is blistered, then you can remove 
 it with the thumb or finger, or pinch it 
 out. After you have it out put on the follow- 
 ing, which will heal it up at once: 
 
 Gum Champhor - i oz 
 
 Crystal Carbolic Acid - ^ oz 
 
 This will heal any kind of an old sore. To 
 make an anticeptic take one Dram of the above 
 and 15 or 20 Grains of Crystal Cocaine. The 
 doctor from which I obtained this formula 
 sold it to the Dental Trade quite extensively. 
 For the following receipt I paid S25. Prus- 
 
112 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 sian Tonic Luster and Dandruff Shampoo: 
 Bay Rum - 8 oz 
 
 Alchol - 8 oz 
 
 Tr Cantharides - ii oz 
 
 Lavender Camp Spts. 2 oz 
 
 Aqua Ammonia - 2 oz 
 
 Mix use and rub until you have it damp. 
 Use once daily until hair has stops falling" out 
 — when the hair is falling' out badly add ten 
 Grains Tanic Acid. 
 
 The method used by regular Chriopodist 
 is as follows in removing" corns. Solution for 
 softening corn before removing- with the corn 
 razor: 
 
 Alcohol - if oz 
 
 Carbolic Acid 70 Drops 
 
 Menthal - 70 Drops 
 
 Crystal Cocaine 20 Gr 
 
 After the corn is removed use the following 
 
 either with cotton or a small camels hair brush 
 
 this forms a new skin or blister which protects 
 
 the tender tiesh until new skin grows to take 
 
 the place of the corn. If you should cause 
 
 the corn to bleed (which you should not do if 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. II3 
 
 you are careful in taking it out) use Marsillo 
 solution of Iron, which will immediately stop 
 the blood: 
 
 Colodian - 4 oz 
 
 Carbolic Acid - 1 1-2 oz 
 
 Sub. Either - 2 oz 
 
 Canna Biscindica, - 2 oz 
 
 To remove or cure Proud Flesh use Burnt 
 
 Alum. For ingrowing toe nails use Brosic 
 
 Acid. The best cure for Bunions is pure 
 
 Skunk Oil. 
 
 Probably there is no little thing which 
 causes so much annoyance and, in many cases 
 actual pain, as corns upon the toes, between 
 the toes, or upon the bottom of the foot. 
 
 Many people suffer the pain and annoy- 
 ance and other serious results from corns for 
 years, and after trying the many lotions, 
 salves, ointments and many so-called eradicat- 
 ors, without cure or relief give up the hope of 
 a final cure. 
 
114 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 A SHORT COURSE IN PHYSICAL CULTURE 
 
 EXERCISES 
 
 Adopted for Barbers or those of Sedentary Habits. 
 
 We have been prompted in getting out 
 this course for physical development partly 
 from our own experience and partly from the 
 experience of others. As we have known of 
 a great many barbers in our time, that had 
 they known and practiced physical culture ex- 
 ercises mioht have been sound, able bodied 
 
 o 
 
 men. Scientific men of all ages have been 
 studying to better the physical condition of 
 mankind. 
 
 The first and most important thing in 
 physical culture exercises is deep breathing and 
 lung expansion, a very good example to go 
 by will be found as follows: Stand in a per- 
 fectly erect position with hands extended 
 downward then inhale long deep breath count- 
 ing seven, retain whde counting seven and 
 exhale while counting seven, repeating this 
 all the way from 5 to 1 5 times, or as many times 
 as you think necessary, as the more you 
 practice this the easier it will become. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 
 
 115 
 
 FIG. 1. 
 
 Ex. 1. Stand perfectly 
 erect with hands closed tightly 
 as possible and extended down- 
 ward, making the body as 
 dense as possible and bending 
 the arms upward from the 
 elbow. Repeat this from five 
 to fifteen times increasing as 
 you prolong the practice. Fig. 
 1 shows the 
 
 back view and 
 fig. 2 the front 
 view. In con- 
 nection with 
 No. 1. raise 
 and lower the body by throw- 
 ing weight on the toes. High- 
 ly beneficial for weak ankle 
 muscles. 
 
 Ex. 2. Stand perfectly 
 erect, bend the arms inward 
 from the elbows on closing 
 the fists and making the arms 
 muscles as dense and hard 
 
 FIG .2 
 
n6 
 
 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 as possible and thrust outward as in fig. 2. 
 Repeat this from five to fifteen times always 
 bearing in mind the deep breathing. 
 
 Ex. 3. Stand 
 perfectly erect, 
 with chest ex- 
 tended; extend 
 the arms straight 
 from the shoul- 
 der with hands 
 open and palms 
 down as shown 
 i n illustration peat from ten to 
 
 fig 3. Then draw twenty times. 
 
 This exercise is important, as it strengthens 
 the muscles seldom used. 
 
 Upper chest breathing. Cross the arms, 
 brino-ino- t ] ie shoulders forward and down- 
 ward, now as you inhale deeply and freely, 
 
 the arms in to 
 chest with slow 
 mo- 
 tion, bending el- 
 bows only. This 
 motion should 
 be accompanied 
 \\- i t h deep 
 breathing. Re- 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 
 
 117 
 
 bring the arms and shoulders up and back, fill- 
 ing the chest fully and thoroughly, slightly 
 drawing in the abdomen. This is especially 
 
 beneficial for chest expansion, though it is 
 well to remember that this is not the proper 
 way to breath ordinarily, as expansion should 
 
 begin in the abdominal 
 
 region. 
 
 Ex. 4. To prac- 
 tice this exercise take 
 a deep breath, raise 
 the arms upward as 
 high as possible, as if 
 reaching for something 
 beyond your reach, and 
 ; then bend the trunk 
 \ forward and make the 
 i hands touch the floor 
 . without bending the 
 knees as in fig. 4. Prac- 
 tice this about 5 times 
 a day at first but in- 
 crease each day. It is 
 
 FIG. 4. 
 
3 18 
 
 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 hard to touch the floor at first but practice each 
 day will soon make it easy. 
 
 Ex. 5. This exercise 
 is very much like the last, 
 but in this one you extend 
 the arms out horizontally, 
 bend the trunk forward 
 and touch the floor with 
 one hand, as in fig. 5. It 
 is neces- 
 sary t o 
 bend the 
 knee i 11 
 this exer- 
 cise. Re- 
 peat this 
 
 e x e rcise ,- 
 every day and increasing it 
 gradually as it becomes easier. 
 
 Ex. 6. Stand perfectly 
 erect with arms extended 
 downward, then open and shut 
 the fists, using- all the energy 
 
 ' s SJ FIG. 6. 
 
 FIG. 5. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 
 
 119 
 
 you possess. Be sure to take plenty of deep 
 breathing- while practicing this exercise, re- 
 peating from five to fifteen times. 
 
 Ex. 7. Assume a perfectly erect po- 
 
 FIG. 7. 
 
 sition and take a deep breath, swing the arrr.s 
 upward over the head, so that the hands 
 touch, do this exercise to the count of two 
 
12') 
 
 BR1DGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 on one raise the arms and on two lower them 
 to the sides again. Repeat from five to 
 fifteen times. 
 
 Ex. 8. Stand erect with fists closed 
 and arms extended downward then raise the 
 arms upward in oblique position, first using 
 one arm and then the other, as in fio-. 8. Re- 
 peat from five to fifteen times. 
 
 FIG. 8. FIG. o. 
 
 Ex. 9. Same as in No. 8 with a slow 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 
 
 121 
 
 swinging motion, making all the muscles of 
 the arms and shoulders hard as possible, this 
 is good in developing breast, shoulder and 
 bicepts muscles. 
 
 Ex. 10. In this exercise lay flat on the 
 floor, then slowly raise the body frorrr the 
 
 FIG. 10. 
 
 waist without touching the floor with the 
 hands. This exercise is especially recom- 
 mended for constipation, as it exercises all the 
 abdominal muscles. During all these exer- 
 cises concentrate your mind on receiving 
 benefit and that you will bz stronger and bat- 
 ter than you ever was before. 
 
 Bathing, proper diet, and regular sleep 
 are the three requisites connected with physi- 
 
122 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 cal culture. Any one who desires continued 
 good health should be able to sleep at least 
 eight hours at night, have a regular time for 
 retiring. Form these habits of regularity 
 and live as closely to them as possible, and 
 practice the course of exercises on retiring at 
 night and on arising in the morning. If you 
 are not feeling well do not postpone or neg- 
 lect them under any consideration, for if you 
 commence to neglect them you will become 
 negligent after a while and neglect them alto- 
 gether, but if you keep them up, it will soon 
 become a pleasure. 
 
 It is generally supposed that every one 
 knows how to take a bath, but prize fighters 
 and athletes in general do not get into a tub 
 and never use absolute cold or very hot water, 
 and soap is never used more than once a week, 
 but they take a good sized sponge and dip it 
 in luke warm water and wipe the body all over 
 this way, dipping the sponge in water often, 
 and dry with a course towel and completing 
 with a thorough rubbing. 
 
 As this in only intended for a short course 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 123 
 
 to be used in a general way you must use your 
 own judgment as to the amount of work to be 
 done at each exercising period, but by using a 
 small amount of intelligence you can, in a very 
 few days, adopt the exercises that will be best 
 suited to your condition. 
 
 I state to those wishing a complete course 
 in physical culture, and something up-to-date, 
 equal if not superior in many of the mail 
 courses, containing all the different muscular 
 movements and complete systematical course 
 commonly sold for $10 to $25 which will be 
 found in Bridgeford's book of Physic Science, 
 and Physical Culture complete. Priceonly$ 1. 50 
 
124, BRIDGEFORDS REVISED EDITION 
 
 UP-TO-DATE 
 FORMULAS 
 FOR. THE 
 TOILET AND 
 OTHER. 
 PURPOSES 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 125 
 
 BROWN DYE. 
 
 This is the latest and greatest discovery of 
 the age in dyes; is a perfect dye. Beautiful 
 Brown and more durable than Black dye, and 
 contains only one solution. 
 
 Nitrate of Silver, i ounce 
 
 Aqua Ammonia, - 2 ounces 
 
 Sodium Carbonate, - i\ drams 
 Distilled Water, - 5 ounces 
 
 Dissolve silver in 4 ounces water and add 
 ammonia until entirely dissolved. Then dis- 
 solve the soda in this solution and add water 
 to make 6 ounces. Let stand 48 hours and 
 decant or strain. Wash mustache or hair thor- 
 oughly with good sea-foam or shampoo, re- 
 moving all grease or dirt and apply. 
 
 "ONE SOLUTION BLACK DYE." 
 
 Nitrate of Silver, 1 ounce 
 
 Nitrate of Copper 15 grains 
 
 Water of Ammonia 2 ounces 
 
 Dissolve the silver and copper in 4 ounces 
 
 of distilled water, then gradually add the 
 
 water ammonia until the solution is re-dissolved 
 
 then add water to make one-half pint. 
 
126 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 BROWN DYE. 
 
 Pyrogallic Acid, - i ounce 
 
 Olive Oil, - - i ounce 
 
 Lac. Sulphur, - i ounce 
 
 Rain Water, - 8 ounces 
 Mix, apply as other dyes. 
 
 HARDENING RAZORS. 
 
 Acetic Acid - i ounce 
 
 Water sufficient to immerse blade. Leave 
 in both twenty-four hours. 
 
 CREAM OP ROSES. 
 
 Glycerine, - ii pounds 
 
 Witch Hazel, - i pint 
 
 Borsoek Acid, - 2 ounces 
 
 Alcohol. - - i pint 
 
 Juice or one Lemon. 
 To be used for chapped face and hands, 
 thieken with Gum Trag. disolved in warm 
 water to a desiree thickness. Color with car- 
 mine red if desired. 
 
 BLONDINE. 
 
 Peroxide of Hydrogen 8 ounces 
 
 Apply as other dyes. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 127 
 
 HAIR DYE. 
 
 Dissolve 2 ounces of Pyrogollic Acid in a 
 mixture of Alcohol of 94% and 18 ounces of 
 Distilled Water. This is the Mordaunt, and 
 the Dye is prepared as follows: Dissolve 1 
 ounce of Nitrate of Silver in 8 ounces of 
 Distilled Water and add 2 ounces of Ammonia 
 F. F. F. Both solutions should be kept in 
 glass stopped bottles. 
 
 TO PREVENT BALDNESS. 
 
 Cod Liver Oil, - 10 parts 
 
 Onion Juice, - - 10 parts 
 
 Yolk of one Egg. 
 Mix, shake before using and apply once a 
 
 week. Gum Arabic may be used in place of 
 
 the Yolk of Egg. 
 
 HAIR BLEACH. 
 
 There is no formula given with the Hair 
 Bleach. Hydrogen Paroxide is the most 
 efficient bleach and forms the basis of most of 
 the articles sold for this purpose. The com- 
 mercial article should be freely diluted before 
 using and the hair should be free from all 
 grease, etc. , by washing with warm suds. 
 
128 
 
 BRIDGEFORDS REVISED EDITION 
 
 SHAMPOO. 
 
 Boracic Acid, 
 Sal. Tartar, 
 Sulph. Ether, 
 Rain Water, 
 
 2 ounces 
 
 i ounce 
 
 4 ounce 
 
 i quart 
 
 BRILLIANTINE. 
 
 Glycerine, 
 Alcohol, 
 Rose Water, 
 Oil of Bergamot, 
 
 ^ ounce 
 5 ounces 
 
 i ounce 
 io drops 
 
 FACE CREAM. 
 
 Hydro Chlorate of Ammonia 4 parts 
 Dilute Hydro Chloric Acid, 5 parts 
 Lait Virginal, - 50 parts 
 
 Glycerine, - 30 parts 
 
 FRECKLE CREAM. 
 
 Quince Seed, 
 Chloride Ammonia, 
 Cologne, 
 Hot Water, 
 
 i ounce 
 
 i ounce 
 
 1 ounce 
 
 1 pint 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 12} 
 
 SHAMPOO MIXTURE. 
 
 Extract of Guilloys Fluid 14 parts 
 
 Cologne Water, - i3 parts 
 
 Glycerine, - - 8 parts 
 
 Alcohol, - 30 parts 
 
 Rose Water, - 35 parts 
 
 SHAMPOO MIXTURE. 
 
 Borax, - i2 parts 
 
 Ammonia Carbonate, - 3 parts 
 Tinct. of Cantharides, - 6 parts 
 Glycerine, - - 12 parts 
 
 Water, - - 450 parts 
 
 Alcohol sufficient to make 1000 parts 
 
 TALCUM POWDERS. 
 
 Talcum Powder, 10 ounces 
 
 Rice Flour, 10 ounces 
 
 Zinc Oxide, - 5 ounces 
 
 Orris Root, powdeaed hue 1 ounce 
 Mix well and perfume with a mixture of 
 'Oil Bergamot, Neroli and Ylang Viang, 
 
I30 BRIDGKFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 DEPILATORY, to Remove Superfluous Hair. 
 
 Barium Sulphide, 2 parts 
 
 Zinc Oxide. - 1 part 
 
 Starch Powder, 1 part 
 
 Mix and keep dry. When desired for use 
 
 make a paste of it with water and apply to the 
 
 part from which hair is to be removed, leave 
 
 on for ten minutes, then scrape off. This 
 
 usually acts at once, but if necessary apply a 
 
 second time. The hair will grow a^ain, but 
 
 «Z> O 
 
 this is the case with all safe depilatories. 
 
 CREAM OF ROSES. 
 
 Gum Tragacanth, 1 ounce 
 
 Warm Water, - 1 quart 
 
 Oil Roses, - 5 drops 
 
 Glycerine, - 3 ounces 
 
 Witch Hazel - 3 ounces 
 
 Alcohol, - - 3 ounces 
 
 Put the Tragacanth in the water, let stand 
 
 over night or until jellied, then strain through 
 
 muslin cloth and while warm add the other 
 
 ingredients. Bottle, label and put away in a 
 
 cool place. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 131 
 
 CARBOKLNE HAIR GROWER. 
 
 Promotes a healthy growth of hair on heads 
 where there is fine and thin hair. 
 
 Neutral Paraffin Oil. 8 ounces 
 
 Tr. Cantharides, - 7 drams 
 
 Euphorbium. - 10 grains 
 
 Oil Rosemary, - - 2 drams 
 
 Oil Cassia, - 10 drops 
 
 Oil Cloves, - 3 drops 
 
 Heat the Euphorbium and Cantharides on 
 
 gentle heat for 2 hours, with the Paraffin Oil, 
 
 then add the other oils, and bottle. Rub head 
 
 thoroughly and apply once a day for three 
 
 weeks. 
 
 BAY RUM. 
 
 Oil of Bay, - 240 grains 
 
 Oil of Orange, - 16 grains 
 
 Oil of Pimento, - 16 grains 
 
 Alcohol, - - 32 ounces 
 
 Water, - - 25 ounces 
 Dissolve the oils in alcohol and add the 
 
 water. Mix with 2 ounces of Precipitated 
 
 Calcium Phosphate and filter. 
 
132 bridghford's revised edition 
 
 HAIR RESTORATIVE. 
 
 Sugar of Lead, - 1 ounce 
 
 Borax, - - 1 ounce 
 
 Lac. Sulphur - - 1 ounce 
 
 Acqua Ammonia, - i ounce 
 
 Alcohol, - - - 1 gill 
 
 These articles to stand mixed fourteen hours 
 then add: 
 
 Bay Rum, - - 1 gill 
 
 Fine Table Salt, 1 table spoon 
 
 Soft Water, 3 pints 
 
 Essence of Ber^amot, - 1 ounce 
 
 Manner of usin*>\ When the hair is thin or 
 
 falling out, make two applications daily until 
 
 this amount is used up, unless that hair has 
 
 come out sufficiently to satisfy you before that 
 
 time. Work it to the roots of the hair with a 
 
 soft brush or the ends of the lingers, rubbing 
 
 well each time. For gray hair one applicaiion 
 
 daily is sufficient. It is harmless and will do 
 
 all that is claimed for it. 
 
 FACE WASH. 
 
 Rose Water, - i ounce 
 
 Glycerine, - - i ounce 
 
 French prepared chalk ten cents. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. I33 
 
 EXTRACT OF MAGNOLIA PERFUME. 
 
 Extract of Orange Flower 64 parts 
 " " Rose 128 parts 
 
 " l< Tube Rose 64 parts 
 
 " " Violet 32 parts 
 
 Mix and to each quart of mixture add 10 
 drops of Oil of Bitter Almonds and 4 drops of 
 Oil of Lemon. The extracts used in this are 
 all from the pomade of the flowers named. 
 
 BANDOLINE. 
 
 A face balm of exquisite merit; is cooling, 
 soothing and healing qualities are unsurpassed 
 by any face preparation on the market. 
 Gum Trogacanth - 2 drams 
 
 Rose Water, -. 10 ounces 
 
 Alcohol, - 4 ounces 
 
 Otto of Roses - 15 drops 
 
 Macerate the gum in the rose water until 
 dissolved, strain and add the alcohol to Otto 
 Roses, then mix all and bottle; color red with 
 few drops Tincture Cochineal. 
 
134 
 
 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 HAIR TONIC. 
 
 Tinct. of Cantharades, 
 Sulph. Quinine, 
 Lac. Sulphur, 
 Bay Rum, 
 Apply twice daily. 
 
 y 2 ounce 
 i drachm 
 y 2 dracm 
 8 ounces 
 
 DANDERINE. 
 
 Hydrate Chloral, - I ounce 
 
 Bay Rum, - - 6 ounces 
 
 Apply daily for one week, then once ? 
 week. 
 
 SHAMPOO PASTE. 
 
 Conti Castile Soap, - 4 ounces 
 
 Pottasium Carb. - 1 ounces 
 
 Rain Water, - - 6 ounces 
 
 Oil of Lavender, - 5 drops 
 
 Oil of Bergamont, - 10 drops 
 
 To the water add the soap in shaving and 
 
 then the pottassium. Mix until creamy, then 
 
 add perfumes. The addition of glycerine 
 
 prevents hardening. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MAI1UAL. T 35 
 
 BEAUTIFYING THE SKIN. 
 
 For beautifying and taking wrinkles out of 
 
 the skin: 
 
 Glycerine - - 3 oz 
 
 Parafin wax - 2-3 
 
 Mix and heat in a tin pan then add k oz 
 
 Bergamont, run off in tin can or glass botte. 
 
 To be used after washing the hands and face 
 
 at night. Excellent for chapped hands or face 
 
 NAIL POLISH. 
 
 Tartaric Acid, - 1 dram 
 
 Tincture of Myrrh, - 1 drain 
 
 Coloo-ne Water, - 2 drams 
 
 Water, - - 3 drams 
 
 Dissolve the acid in water; mix the tincture 
 
 of myrrh and cologne water and add to the 
 
 acid solution. Apply with a bit of soft leather. 
 
 FURNITURE POLISH. 
 
 Gum Shellac, - 1 ounce 
 
 Alcohol, - 8 ounces 
 
 Linseed Oil, - 1 ounce 
 
 Mix, apply with woolen cloth. 
 
136 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 D^PILATOBY. 
 
 Quick Lime, 1 ounce 
 
 Gum Benzine, - i ounce 
 
 Water sufficient to make a paste, Apply 
 and brush off in ten minutes, 
 
 BEST HAIR OIL. 
 
 Pale Yel. Cotton Seed Oil, 8 ounces 
 Bay Rum, - - 8 ounces 
 
 Add perfume to suit. 
 
 BAY BUM. 
 
 Soft Water, 8 ounces 
 
 Alcohol. - 4 ounces 
 
 Oil of Bay, - 1-4 ounce 
 
 Add water to make one quart. 
 
 HA1B BESOBATIVE. 
 
 Lac Sulphur, 8 drachms 
 
 Sugar of Lead, - 8 drachms 
 
 Glycerine, - 8 ounces 
 
 Bay Rum, - 8 ounces 
 
 Four spoonsful of fine salt and a few drops 
 of Bergamot. Makes half gallon. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MAI1UAI.. 137 
 
 BOQUET COSMETIQUE. 
 
 Lard and mutton suet, carefully prepare 
 1 lb. each, white wax 6 oz., melt over a slow- 
 fire; essence of Bergamot i oz. Run into 
 moulds, wrap in tin foil, label and it is ready 
 for use. 
 
 TO CURL THE HAIR. 
 
 Olive Oil, i pound 
 
 Oil of Oroanum, - i dram 
 
 Oil of Rosemary, - I V± drams 
 
 Mix, put small amount on hands, rub well 
 into the roots of the hair. 
 
 RAZOR. STROP PASTE. 
 
 Take the finest superfine flour of emery, 
 nothing but the very finest will do, moisten 
 with Sweet Oil or Vaseline. There is nothing 
 as good for your strops as elbow grease and 
 lather. 
 
 VIOLET WATER, Finest Quality. 
 
 Extract Violet, with 4 parts dilute Cologne 
 Spirits. Mix and bottle. » 
 
138 bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 HAIR. POMADE. 
 
 (Extra Fine Yellow.) 
 
 Yellow Wax 3 ounces 
 
 Castor Oil - 5 ounces 
 
 Cotton Seed Oil 2 ounces 
 
 Melt the wax and stir in the other in- 
 gredients and perfume to suit. 
 
 Oil Bergamot, 20 drops, has our pref- 
 erence. 
 
 ANTIKINK LOTION. 
 
 To remove the kinks and straighten the 
 hair; is absolutely harmless and a fine dress- 
 ing. 
 
 Beef Suet - - 8 ounces 
 
 Yellow wax - - 1 ounce 
 
 Caster Oil - - - 1 ounce 
 
 Benyoic Acid 5 grains 
 
 Oil of Lemon - - - 1 drachm 
 
 Oil of Casia - - 8 drops 
 
 Mix the suet and wax; then add caster 
 
 oil and acid. Let cool and incorporate the 
 
 other oils. 
 
 VIOLET WATER.. 
 
 Essence of Violet - - 7 ounces 
 Essence of Rose - 2 */£ ounces 
 
 Essence of Cassia - 2 ^ ounces 
 
 Alcohol - m = - 32 ounces 
 
 Water may be added if a cheaper prep- 
 aration is wanted. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 139 
 
 We have had a great many calls from 
 barbers for a formula for a cure for Barber's 
 Itch, so we submit the following, which is a 
 good one. 
 
 BARBERS' ITCHINE. 
 
 Tanic Acid - - 90 grains 
 
 Lac Sulphur - - 180 grains 
 
 Oxide Zinc - 1 ounce 
 
 Starch - - 1 ounce 
 
 Petrolatum, (white) - 2 ounces 
 
 Shave every da)' and apply three times a 
 day until cured, 1 to 3 days. 
 
 Another simple remedy which we can 
 recommend for the cure of Barbers Itch in 
 the early stages: 
 
 Take the ashes from a good cigar, wet 
 the finger tips with spital and make a kind of 
 paste of the ashes and rub on the parts where 
 the disease is first indicated. We have also 
 recommended its use a great many times for 
 the cure of titter or ring-Avorm. 
 
140 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 MASSAGE JELLY. 
 
 Softens the skin, beautifies the complex- 
 ion, removes all roughness of face and lips. 
 Excellent for use after massage or shaving. 
 
 Russian Isinglass - 108 grains 
 
 Clarified Honey - 1 ounce 
 
 Mucilage of Irish Moss 4 ounces 
 
 Glycerine - 4 ounces 
 
 Dis. Water - 6 ounces 
 
 Oil Nerole - - 30 drops 
 
 Dissolve isinglass and moss in the water 
 by gentle heat; add the other ingredients and 
 strain; then add the oil nerole and put in jars. 
 
 DRY SHAMPOO OR SEA FOAM. 
 
 Cologne Spirits - y 2 ounce 
 
 Alcohol - - 1 ounce 
 
 Acqua Amonia - 1 Y / 2 ounces 
 
 Dis. Water 6 ounces 
 
 Apply and rub until lather lirst formed 
 has dried, then dust thoroughly with hair 
 duster, which will remove all dandruff. Then 
 dry with towel. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 141 
 
 TONIC FOR. THE HAIR.. 
 
 A tonic for the hair is composed of 
 
 Glycerine, - - ^ ounce 
 
 Cologne, 6 ounces 
 
 Tinct. of Capsicum, - 20 drops 
 
 Tinct. of Spanish Flies, 1 Y / 2 drams 
 
 CAMPHOR ICE. 
 
 For chapped hands or lips; can be used 
 after shaving. Spermacetic Tallow i^ozs., 
 Oil of Sweet Almonds 4 tea spoons, Gum 
 Camphor 34 oz. made fine; disolve over slow 
 fire, stirring until dissolved; pour into moulds 
 if for sale; paper and tin foil if for your own 
 use. Put in a tight box. 
 
 MAGIC LINIMENT. 
 
 Cotton Seed Oil, - 4 ounces 
 
 Powd. Castile Soap - 1 ounce 
 
 Spirits of Turpentine - 2 ounces 
 Strong Ammonia Water 4 ounces 
 Water sufficient to make one pint. 
 
 This is a good seller when put up in 
 nicely labeled bottles. Try it. 
 
142 BRIDGEFORDS REVISED EDITION 
 
 TOOTH WASH. 
 
 White Castile Soap 
 
 Glycerine 
 
 Water 
 
 3 ounces 
 
 5 ti ounces 
 
 20 ounces 
 
 Alcohol 
 
 Oil of Peppermint 
 
 Oil of Wintercrreen 
 
 Oil of Anise 
 
 Oii of Cassia 
 
 30 ounces 
 1 dram 
 1 dram 
 1 dram 
 1 dram 
 
 WITCH HAZEL 
 
 CREAM. 
 
 White Vaseline 
 Yellow Wax 
 Spermaceti 
 Witch Hazel 
 
 l 3% ounces 
 
 2 T 4 ounces 
 
 - 2^ ounces 
 
 3/4 ounces 
 
 Perfume with Pansy Bls'm Y / 2 ounces 
 Color red with few drops carmine, color 
 snow white with Tr. Beneom, 1 ounce. 
 
 ROSE WATER., COLD CREAM. 
 
 White Petrolatum - 6 ounces 
 
 White Wax - - 1 ounce 
 
 Oil Rose - - - 10 drops 
 
 Melt wax and petrolatum and add the 
 Oil Roses while cooling and place in 2-oz 
 large mouth bottles. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 143 
 
 FACE BLEACH 
 
 Removes all tan and sunburn, leaving the 
 face soft and white. 
 
 Tr. Benzoin - i drachm 
 
 Bichloride Mercury - i crrain 
 
 Emulsion Bitter Almonds 12 ounzes 
 
 Dissolve the mercury in the emulsion and 
 add the Tincture of Benzoin. Apply at night. 
 
 This preparation does not keep well and 
 should be kept in small opaque bottles. Shake 
 well before using". 
 
 COMODONE DESTROYER 
 
 Removes all Black heads and Blotches. 
 
 Ether - - - 1 ounce 
 
 Alcohol 2 drams 
 
 Aromatic Spir. Ammonia 2 drachms 
 
 Before retiring, bathe the parts with very 
 hot water; dry well and rub thoroughly with 
 this lotion every night, removing all visible 
 black heads. 
 
144 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 ALABASTOR CREAM. 
 
 Oxide of Zinc - i lb. 
 
 Oil of Glycerine - 2 oz. 
 
 Bay Rum - - 2 oz. 
 
 Cologne Water - 2 oz. 
 
 Rose Water - 2 oz. 
 
 Oil of Bergamot - 20 drops 
 
 Oil of Bitter Almond - 20 drops 
 
 Oil of Lavender - 20 drops 
 
 Oil of Rose - - 20 droys 
 
 Saltpetre - - 5c. 
 
 Borax - - 5c. 
 
 Put oxide of zinc, borax, and saltpetre in 
 
 a pan and pour over it one gallon of boiling" 
 
 water, stir until cool, strain, and add oils. 
 
 The lady from whom I got this formula made 
 
 a good living making" this cream and selling it. 
 
 WART ERADICATOR 
 To remove warts, etc. 
 
 Calomel - 30 grains 
 
 Boric Acic - - 15 grains 
 
 Salicylic Acid - 5 grains 
 
 Cannabar -■ - 3 grains 
 
 Rub into the wart three or four times a day. 
 
HARDER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. T45 
 
 MASSAGE PREPARATIONS. 
 
 We have no exact formula for making a 
 massage preparation, but we will give you a 
 few of the ingredients used in their manufac- 
 ture. As none of the ingredients that make a 
 perfect massage keep any great length of time 
 when combined, it is well to make it in small 
 quantities and often. They are butter milk, 
 oxide zinc, rice flour, corn starch, powdered 
 magnesia, and sometimes £um tradio-an or sea 
 moss is used as a body. It is usually colored 
 pink or flesh color with confectioner's red 
 analine. We have, sometimes, in emergencies 
 used pure milk with talcum powder and pre- 
 pared chalk, which makes a very good prepa- 
 ration. There are quite a number of these 
 preparations on the market, but none will 
 keep any great length of time. 
 
 MANICURE VARNISH. 
 
 Parahn Wax - - 60 grains 
 
 Chlorform - - - 2 ounces 
 
 Oil Rose 3 drops 
 
 After polishing the nails, apply the var- 
 nish and rub with chamois skin. 
 
146 
 
 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 MRS. F. C. BRIDGEFORD. 
 
 We have discontinued the Ladies' Department in this book, but have 
 published a book entitled "The Ladies' Toilet Manual" devoted exclu- 
 sively to the ladies. It contains instructions for Manicuring, Hair Dress- 
 ing, Facial Massage and Chiropodist "s Work, also all the latest up-to- 
 date formulas for toilet preparations and other purposes. This book 
 is edited by Mrs. F. C. Bridgeford and will be sent post-paid to any part 
 of the United States upon receipt of #1.00. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. I47 
 
 TO CLEAN CARPETS. 
 
 Good for taking out grease spots, paint, 
 pitch, tar, and for cleaning clothing, gloves, 
 hats, etc. This receipt has been sold all over 
 the country, and has been a great money mak- 
 er. It can be used for anything that soap is 
 used for, and for taking off grease from the 
 hands of machinists and railroad men it has no 
 equal. I give the exact formula as it was re- 
 ceived by me from one who paid $50 for it. 
 
 Two packages of 76 Powder 
 Shave up one bar of Ivory Soap 
 One teaspoon of pulverized Alum 
 Two teaspoons of Borax 
 One teaspoon of Salt 
 One gallon of soft water. 
 
 Stir all together; boil over a slow fire 30 
 minutes or until all the soap is thoroughly 
 dissolved. Directions for using: Take a large 
 pan or bucket half full of water; have a large 
 sponge, take a handful of the preparation and 
 work it into the sponge, making a lather until 
 it fills pan or bucket, then use the lather for 
 
14S bridgeford's revised edition 
 
 cleaning- the carpet. When you use up this 
 amount of lather work up more, washing the 
 carpet all over with the sponge the same as 
 you would scrub a floor; let dry and it will be 
 clean and look like new. 
 
 TO CLEAN WALL PAPER. 
 
 A preparation for cleaning wall paper is 
 made of one quart of Rye Flour, tablespoon- 
 ful of Plaster Paris; stir together; put in water 
 enouo'h to make a thick dougfh; bake until 
 done, then it is ready for use. If it gets too 
 hard wet with water; work it up like putty into 
 dough balls. When you first use this care 
 should be taken not to streak the paper. This 
 makes old, dirty wall paper look like new at a 
 very small cost and not much labor. 
 
 CORN CURE. 
 
 Soak a piece of copper in strong vinegar 
 for twenty-four hours. Pour the liquid off and 
 bottle. Apply frequently until the corn is re- 
 moved. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. I49 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Discount Sheet Page 4 
 
 Sanitary Rules and Regulations for Barbers 5 
 
 Preface 6 
 
 Explanation 7 
 
 A Sketch of Our Past 8 
 
 The Kansas City Barber College 10 
 
 Kansas and Missouri Law Governing Barbers..- 23 
 
 The Barber 32 
 
 Stropping the Razor _ 34 
 
 Instructions in Honing 35 
 
 Koning on the Water Hone 37 
 
 The Lather Hone 39 
 
 The Swaty Hone 4 1 
 
 Selecting a Razor 43 
 
 The Art of Shaving 44 
 
 Instructions in Hair Cutting ! 53 
 
 Sea Foam, Shampoo, Etc. 64 
 
 Singeing 65 
 
 Dying the Hair _ 66 
 
 Blondining the Hair 68 
 
 Sterilization of Razors 69 
 
 Razors 7 1 
 
 Good Advice to Barbers 7 2 
 
 The Barbers' Trade as a Life Calling 75 
 
 Good Suggestions to Barbers 76 
 
 Personal Magnetism 81 
 
 To Have Fine, Thick Hair 85 
 
 Dermatology 9 1 
 
 Applications for Roughened Skin 94 
 
 The Massage.. - 99 
 
 Instructions for Facial Massage and Scientific Application 103 
 
 Manicuring 109 
 
 Chiropodist ■. m 
 
 Short Course in Physical Culture Exercises IJ4 
 
 Up-to-Date Formulas for Toilet and Other Purposes ...124-148 
 
I50 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 OUR SPECIAL IN TOOLS. 
 
 i Morley & Son white handle razor S2 00 
 
 1 Morley & Son black handle razor 1 25 
 
 1 Jas. Scott No. 164 razor 1 50 
 
 1 Jas. Scott No. 163 razor. . , 1 50 
 
 1 Jas. Scott No. 154 razor 2 00 
 
 1 Imperial Extry hollow ground razor 1 25 
 
 1 razor case, 9 hole 1 00 
 
 1 pair shears, blue steel 1 25 
 
 1 pair strops, canvass silk finish 1 25 
 
 1 hand made comb 35 
 
 1 hair brush 50 
 
 1 neck duster 35 
 
 1 Swaty hone 60 
 
 1 pair tweezers 15 
 
 1 styptic pencil 05 
 
 S 1 5 00 
 10 per cent, discount 1 50 
 
 $13 50 
 
 This outfit is packed in a neat box, with our 
 "Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual" included, 
 and mailed prepaid to any address upon receipt of 
 $13.50. Fully Guaranteed. 
 
BARBER INSTRUCTOR AND TOILET MANUAL. 151 
 
 As the Mail Order Business Seems to 
 be the New Order of Things 
 
 We have established an exclusive Mail 
 Order Department for our out of town 
 buyers. People realizing" the impor- 
 tance of purchasing goods from a relia- 
 ble firm, one that they know is finan- 
 cially responsible and perfectly reliable, 
 w r ill do well to correspond with us. We 
 give you as references the City National 
 Bank, also the Bank of Commerce. We 
 have had manufactured for us, by spec- 
 ial order, a full line of 
 
 Watches, Musical Instruments, and Barber Supplies, 
 
 of all kinds. We also keep for sale a 
 full line of NOTIONS, and in fact every 
 thing that is needed by our out of town 
 buyers for family use, etc., which we 
 will sell ac wholesale prices to retail 
 buyers. We can afford to do it as we 
 have no rent nor expensive clerk hire, 
 no traveling men— our catalogue is our 
 salesmen. Send for one. Send for our 
 illustrated catalogue, which explains 
 our prices, quality of goods, etc. Ad- 
 dress, 
 
 F. C. BRIDGEFORD MFG. CO. 
 
 503 Delaware Street. 
 
T52 
 
 BRIDGEFORD S REVISED EDITION 
 
 YOU ARE CORDIALLY INVITED 
 
 TO LOOK OVER OUR STOCK OF 
 
 Sarbers' Furniture 3 Barbers' Supplies 
 
 Our line is complete in everything needed by the 
 Tonsorial Profession. We are leaders in Barbers' 
 Cutlery, our Razors and Shears having a reputa- 
 tion of twenty-five years standing. 
 
 RAZORS 
 
 Bismark 
 $1.50 
 
 Mars 
 
 $1.50 
 
 Cosmos 
 
 $2.00 
 
 Swift 
 
 $1.25 
 
 Speed 
 
 $1.25 
 
 BI\iesteel 
 $1.50 
 
 SHEARS 
 
 Swift 
 
 7 and 7^ in. 
 
 $1.15 
 
 8 inch 31.25 
 
 Springer's 
 
 French 
 
 Pattern 
 
 6^, 7, 7^in. 
 
 $1.00 
 8 inch #1.15 
 
 All Steel 
 
 All Sizes 
 #1.00 each 
 
 The Alambra Face Massage and Skin Food is 
 
 preferred to all other preparations of similar nature — try it. 
 
 When results with different Hair Tonics have not been 
 successful, you had better use "Paralyptol" — no failure in 
 this. Write for Illustrated Catalogue; it is free. 
 
 G. R. SPRINGER. 
 
 1332 GRAND AVE. 
 
 KANSAS CITY, MO. 
 
 237 90 
 
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 ©^ 4? » • * • ^ ^ - ■ ■ • *^ 
 
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 HECKMAN 
 
 BINDERY INC. 
 
 ^. MAY 90 
 
 
 ^^" N. MANCHESTER, I o ^f» c^T 
 ^ INDIANA 46962 I ^ ^ 
 
 4696 2