,,=,[ 1 m i ■>•■■-,■ Glass fcZ n ■"* - i i c W 1 tt!6 flu n/ub. Jostjto.tl £> £p ^t Ment of keW ^^ S AND ITS FRIENDS, October lGth, 1881 BISHOP W. MAINS, Publisher. Illustrated by Joseph W. Phillips. TRENTON, N. J. : JOHN L. MURPHY, BOOK AND JOB PRINTER. A DEDICATED TO &jjc <^lb -1 u"7< ' in ill « • M i . W I 1 i / t ( \ .A 1 .vj t~r "Tr>t itt 4 ON TO RICHMOND! 53 deep in the floor. Here are the names we copied : " Giles W. Lamb, Co. K, 7th Regt. C. V. ; " "Serg't A. E. Barrett, Co. K, 7th Regt. C. V., Aug. 13th, 1863," and "D. T. Hamilton, Co. F, 5th Cav. and 10th Regt. Ind. Vols." Several of our party also visited many places of amusement throughout the city. They seemed to be "free" places of amusement as our boys were not required to purchase tickets. Mr. C. P. Barwis, A. W. Lee, W. F. Gordon, and a few others of our party were, through the politeness of some of the Richmond gentlemen, introduced to several of Richmond's fair ladies. They had a very pleasant time and enjoyed themselves very much. Richmond is noted for its pretty ladies. I forgot to remark previously that when we reached Main street, on our way from the boat, we were reviewed by our Commander, Major Richard A. Don- nelly, and many of the officers of the New Jersey Bat- talion, who made a flying visit to Richmond from Yorktown. Our Commander seemed highly pleased at our appearance and reception. We greeted them with three hearty cheers. They returned the salute by raising their caps. They left for Yorktown the same evening. On our way up Main street we come to what is called "The Old Stone House." This is without question the oldest building now standing in Rich- mond, and tradition associates with it the names of Washington, Lafayette, Jefferson, Monroe and other celebrities. There are many places of interest in the city, and our boys are being taken from place. We go in squads of from two to five, under the charge of some one of the Confederate soldiers or citizens. Every point of interest is shown us, especially the old Con- federate landmarks. We took more than ordinary 54 ON TO RICHMOND! delight in viewing these old relics of the Confeder- acy. Even the site upon which some of the build- ings stood before the evacuation conflagration seemed to have an interest attached thereto. The Confederate Post Office Department was in Goddin's Hall, a stuccoed edifice southeast corner Eleventh and Bank streets, about one hundred yards from the Capitol portico. The building was destroyed by the great fire of the evacuation. The present one covers the exact site, and is in nearly the same style of the old one. Fifty yards up Bank street is the Custom House and Post Office, the only building on either side of Main street between Eighth and Thir- teenth, left standing by the evacuation fire. Some scaling of the granite walls shows the intense heat of the surrounding flames. The office of President Davis was on the third floor, second room to the left. The rooms on the Bank street floor were occupied by various officers of government, and the Main street floor previous to, and since the war, the City Post Office, by the Confederate Treasury. On the west side of Ninth street, where Bank street terminates and upon the ground where the Virginia Opera House now stands, was the Mechanics' Institute, used for the War and Navy Departments. It was burnt by the evacuation fire. The present smaller structure was erected in 1865 or 1866. Going up Ninth street northwardly a square and a half and St. Paul 's Church (Episcopal) is reached. It is in the Corin- thian style of architecture, and its spire is remarkable for airy grace and symmetry. Sunday, April 2, 1865, President Davis was at worship in this church when notified by telegram from General Lee that the city must be evacuated. The hotel building (now St. Claire) opposite St. Paul's was used by the Second Auditor's Office of the Treasury Department. The Provost Marshal's Office was in a large framed house ON TO RICHMOND! 55 (the "Winder Building"), which was erected for the purpose, on the west side of Tenth street between Broad and Capitol, to the north of Washington Statue. After the war it was removed to Navy Hill (on the northern limit of the city) and converted into a school house for colored children, and then the lot was used for the present edifice. A little far- ther on we come to the site of the old City Hall, a building which was in the Grecian style and once regarded as very handsome. It was pulled down about 1872 because deemed insecure and to make room for a better one. Richmond still continues a great market for " Con- federate curios. ' ' A book and newsdealer, who makes their sale a specialty, was recently offered $150 for a Confederate postage stamp of peculiar rarity. THE STATUARY IN THE CAPITOL SQUARE. Cultivated travelers freely concede that there is no work of the kind in this country, and few in the world, at all comparable with the Washington Mon- ument. It consists of an imposing column of Rich- mond granite, rising from a star-shaped base, sur- mounted by a gigantic equestrian statue of Wash- ington, and on pedestals around and beneath him figures of Patrick Henry, whose eloquence fired the hearts of the patriots for revolution ; George Mason, the author of the Virginia Bill of Rights ; Thomas Jefferson, the author of the Declaration of Independ- ence; Governor Thomas* Nelson, Jr., to whose patriotism and purse the victory at Yorktown was largely attributable ; Andrew Lewis, under whose leadership as Indian conqueror the Virginians made a pathway to the west ; and John Marshall, the dis- tinguished Chief Justice of the United States Supreme Court. 56 ON TO RICHMOND! The monument and most of the figures were modeled by Crawford, the designer also of the bronze figure of Liberty on the dome of the capitol at Washington and of the statue of Beethoven at Boston. Mr. Crawford died in 1857; and the unfinished work — statues of Nelson and Lewis and the allegorical figures— was executed by Randolph Rogers, much of whose work is to be seen in the capitol at Washington. The equestrian statue is 15 feet from the rider's chapeau to the plinth upon which the horse's feet rest. The pedestrian statues are each ten feet high. The entire cost of the monu- ment (including statuary) was $259,913,26. The corner-stone was laid February 2 2d, 1850 ; Washing- ton's statue was unveiled February 2 2d, 1858, but the entire work was not completed until 1868. The bronze figures were cast at the Royal Foundry at Munich. On the north side of the avenue between this monu- ment and the Governor's house, is the bronze statue of Stonewall Jackson. It stands upon a pedestal of Virginia granite ten feet high. It is of heroic size and is one of the best works of the late Mr. Foley, the great English sculptor. The following is the inscription : " Presented by English gentlemen as a tribute of admiration for the soldier and patriot, Thomas J. Jackson, and gratefully accepted by Vir- ginia in the name of the Southern people. Done a. d. 1875, in the hun- dredth year of the Commonwealth. "Look! There is Jackson standing like a stonewall." Near the old Bell House in the square is the marble statue of Henry Clay, by Hart — a present to the Commonwealth of Virginia from the great orator's countrywomen. It was unveiled April 12th, i860, and is said by many, who well remember Clay, to be a faithful likeness of that great and gifted son of Virginia. ON TO RICHMOND! 57 A TRAMP OVER THE BATTLE FIELDS. As our boat did not leave Richmond on Wednes- day morning, as was intended, Lafayette Horner, John Hazlett, Wm. S. Everingham, A. J. Walker, H. J. Nicklin, x\nthony Kuhn and Jos. W. McKen- zie, of our party, concluded to take the early train from Richmond to West Point, and there take the boat to Yorktown. It was their intention, also, to visit the battle fields lying between Richmond and West Point. They left Richmond at 8:45 A - M - Tne y cou ^ not purchase any tickets at. the depot on account of their having disposed of them all on the day previ- ous. When the conductor came along he attempted to exact from our boys more than the regular fare. He slackened the " speed " of the train and threat- ened to put the boys off. The boys took advantage of the slow speed in which the cars were moving and all jumped off, as it was close by the battle fields of Fair Oaks. The boys trudged on some distance, when they met an old darkey and inquired of him where the battle was fought, "Some whar in dese yer fields," he replied. They soon saw evidences that satisfied them that they were upon the very fields where McClellan marshaled his hosts and gave battle to the forces under Johnson and Lee. Many military critics say that McClellan could have marched into Richmond the next day if he had been so disposed. Here our boys commenced collecting relics and cutting canes. Many bullets were here found. After tramping about three miles over the fields of Fair Oaks, they came to the national cemetery, at Seven Pines. The cemetery contains 1,357 Union soldiers, of whom but 150 are known. Through the 58 ON TO RICHMOND! kindness of the superintendent's wife (Mrs. Barrows), they were shown through the grounds, where flowers and many beautifully colored leaves were gathered. Mr. Horner here purchased a sword, which was picked up off the battle field, and which was sup- posed to have belonged to a Confederate soldier. Our boys here visited a store and purchased a few relics and partook of some refreshments. They pursued their journey over the fields. They came across an old oak tree which took five of the party to span around. At this point five of the party went in search of something to eat, while the remain- ing two stayed behind and began to dig bullets out of some trees. While engaged in cutting the bullets out a darkey came along and told them that if they would go with him to his "house," he would give them some bullets which he had gathered off the fields. One of the party went along with him, and he not only received a great many bullets from the darkey, but he was invited to sit down to dinner, which was then ready. The dinner consisted of "possum," hoe cake and 'milk, and was much en- joyed by him. The man who was left at the tree, thinking something was wrong, entered the cabin and also partook of its hospitalities. After thanking the host and hostess for their many kindnesses they started out to overtake the rest of the party. They found them at an old house formerly the headquarters of General Casey. The party then visited another old house which was once used as a hospital by the Federal- army, and which is now occupied by a Mrs. Whitesides. On the floors of the rooms blood stains and other evidences of its having been occupied by wounded soldiers, could be seen. As the party passed on they could plainly see evi- dences of the war. Trees with their tops shot away, and with their trunks shattered by shot and shell, were every now and then seen. ON TO RICHMOND! 59 After traveling about a mile and a half further the party came to Allen's Siding, or, which is better known by our boys, as Savage Station. Here on June 29th, 1862, Magruder attacked the Union army on its retreat to the James River, and inflicted upon them a heavy loss. Evidences here and there could be seen that recalled the bloody battle that took place here. Not only did McClellan lose many men here, but' a terrible loss was inflicted upon the enemy. The boys called at a house here where they were given a grand welcome as well as a grand dinner. The name of the party who entertained them was Mrs. J. H. Allen and daughters. Mrs. Allen's hus- band was in Richmond at the time, and our boys were deprived of the pleasure of his acquaintance. Here the boys say they enjoyed themselves very much. When Mr. Allen returned home he was very much pleased to hear that our boys had called at his house. Many relics were here given our party, such as grape shot and bullets picked off the battle fields. It getting late, the party left Savage Station, and arrived at West Point at 6:30 p. m., where they took the steamer for Yorktown, arriving there at 8:30 in the evening. After tramping over the dusty plains of Yorktown, they put up at the "Ocean View Hotel," where they soon fell asleep. In the morn- ing, after visiting many places of interest, they go to the wharf and join their comrades, who are on board the "Gratitude," and which arrived at ten o'clock that morning. It is not our intention to give a detailed account of all the battles fought in the neighborhood of Richmond, for they can be numbered by dozens, if not by scores, but we propose to give a brief sketch of the most prominent ones visited by some of our party. In doing so we will quote from Chesterman's Southern book entitled "Guide to Richmond." 60 ON TO RICHMOND! FORT DARLING (DREWRY's BLUFF). Yorktown and Norfolk having been evacuated, the first real conflict at arms before Richmond was on the 15th May, 1862, when the Union fleet, consist- ing of the Monitor, Galena, Aroostook, Naugatuck, Port Royal and others, attacked the Confederate bat- teries at Drewry's Bluff (Fort Darling), and after a brief but spirited contest was compelled to retire with the loss of a considerable number of killed and wounded, and several crippled vessels. The Bluff is on the south side of James river, seven and a half miles south of the city, and is reached by steamer, of by vehicle by way of the Richmond and Peters burg turnpike. It was one of the strongest positions on the lines before Richmond, and defied to the very last all assaults by land and water. Many of the earthworks are still standing, partially obscured by young pines and "volunteer" peach trees. One or two of the houses used for officers' quarters also remain. From this point there is an extended view of the river, up and down, of Chaffin's Bluff on the opposite side, which was also a Confederate strong- hold, and of a portion of the battle-ground of May, 1864, when General Butler tried to flank the Bluff and was met and forced back by Beauregard. In the riv^r near here the Confederate iron clads were blown up upon the evacuation of Richmond. Remains of the military bridges, which were built across the James by the Confederates, are to be seen at low tide. From the deck of a New York or James river steamer excellent views may be had. SEVEN FINES OR FAIR OAKS. On the 31st of May, 1862, the Con'federates, under General Joseph E Johnston, attacked the left wing ON TO RICHMOND! 61 of General McClellan's army which had crossed the Chickahominy in its advance upon Richmond. A heavy rain had fallen and transformed this usually insignificant stream into a broad river. The Con- federates took advantage of the division of the Union forces, and fell upon them with violence, and on that day and the next, the great but indecisive battle of Seven Pines or Fair Oaks was fought. On the first day General Joseph E. Johnston was wounded, and, two days later, General R. E. Lee succeeded to the command of the army. The two armies in the con- test lost, together, about ten thousand men. The battle-field extended from Fair Oaks Station, on the Richmond, York River and Chesapeake Railroad, to a locality known as Seven Pines, on the Richmond and Williamsburg stage road. There is a National Cemetery near the battle-field and another on the Williamsburg road only a mile or two from Rich- mond. There are numerous earthworks in this vicinity still standing. MECHANICSVILLE. This little village is five and a half miles northeast of Richmond. Here and at Ellerson's Mill, a short dis- tance beyond, the seven days' battles were begun, June 26th, 1862. General Lee by massing his troops on the right of McClellan's line, forced the latter out of his works and to the protection of his gunboats on James river, after fighting the battles of Mechan- icsville, Gaines' Mill, Cold Harbor, Savage's Station, Frazier's Farm and Malvern Hill. At the last named place the Confederates met with a bloody check, and McClellan was enabled to retire to Harrison's Land- ing, farther down James river, and a campaign in which between 30,000 and 40,000 men were killed or wounded was closed. The drive to Mechanicsville 02 ON TO RICHMOND! is pleasant and the road good. The Chickahominy is crossed five miles from the city, and at several points traces of Confederate breastworks may be seen. Where the land is valuable to the farmers, they have generally been leveled ; but where it is of little use, they have been allowed to stand, particu- larly, in woods and swampy lands. COLD HARBOR. Cold Harbor is entitled to particular distinction. It is about six miles below Mechanicsville, and between nine and ten by the most direct road from Richmond. On this field two great battles were fought. The first, June 27th, 1862, when the Confed- erates, under the two Hills and Longstreet, attacked Porter and Slocum and when Stonewall Jackson, in his celebrated flank movement from the Valley, turned the scale of victory against the Union army ; the second, on June 3d, 1864, when Grant in his movement down from Spottsylvania Court House and the Wilderness, was confronted by Lee, and attacking the latter in his entrenchments, according to Swinton, "lost 13,000 men" in about half an hour without making a serious impression on the Confederates. In the first battle the heaviest fighting was about Mr. George Watt's house at "Springfield"; in the second in the vicinity of Beulah Church and Cold Harbor ("Cool Arbor"). After it Grant moved on down to James river and crossed over in front of Petersburg. To see this battle field as it deserves, visitors should first provide themselves with compe- tent guides, who may be procured by proper enquiry at the Richmond hotels. FORT HARRISON, MALVERN HILL, SAVAGE'S STATION, &C. September 29th, 1864, two corps of Butler's corps surprised and captured Fort Harrison and attempted ON TO RICHMOND! 63 to carry Fort Gilmer, adjacent, but were unsuccessful. On the 30th two Confederate divisions endeavored to recover Fort Harrison, but were repulsed with heavy loss. This battle ground may be easily seen from the deck of a steamer going up or down the river. So too the Malvern Hill battle-ground, which is some fourteen or fifteen miles from Richmond by county roads. Savage's Station is on the Richmond, York river and Chesapeake railroad, and is therefore easily reached. Here, on June 29th, 1862, the Confederates, under Magruder, attacked the Union troops, then retreating from Cold Harbor to James river, and inflicted upon them a heavy loss. The nearest approach of the Union forces to Richmond before they entered it was in March, 1864, when Colonel Dahlgren, commanding a raiding party, got near the toll-gate on the Brook turnpike — a point only about one mile north of the city limits. Meet- ing with some resistance here, and learning that he would have a heavy battery to pass before he could get into the city, he retired, and was a few days afterward killed, and his body brought into the city. We will not attempt to give an account of the last battles fought around Richmond, and in which many of our boys took part. History records the facts. MISCELLANEOUS NOTES. I have attempted to relate as nearly as possible all the incidents that came under my observation while at Richmond. I have given them in a disjointed manner, also. We were at Richmond a part of two days, but as our party were not allowed to go to sleep at any time during our sojourn in the city, I have made no distinction between Tuesday and Wednes- 64 ON TO RICHMOND! day, and I simply relate incidents as they come to my mind, regardless of dates. I do not pretend to say that I have related all that took place. It would take more pages than this little volume contains to do so. Ford's hotel, at Richmond, captured many of our boys, who stole away from their companions on Tuesday evening. First, one of our party would steal into the hotel, and before he could register in would come another, mutter some unintelligible words of recognition and hie himself off to bed. While Mr. C. T. Williams and one or two others were about to retire, the door of the hotel opened and in came another of our boys, who, upon recog- nizing the party, shouted, '-'Hie! Second District represented." He was put to bed. Late on Tuesday night we also saw one of our offi- cers in company with an old colored woman. Upon being asked where he was going, he replied, "We're hunting for Libby Prison " Many amusing incidents occurred while we were at Richmond. Late Tuesday evening many of our boys were not able to stand the great "strain " that they were compelled to undergo, and when a favor- able opportunity presented itself one would slip away, and then another, and another, and go to the dock where the boat was lying, with the hope of get- ting some sleep. Our commander, who had repaired to the boat about the right time, saw all that was going on. He related what he saw during the night, and said : " Did you ever see a flock of chickens during a heavy rain storm, with their feathers all wet, with their heads down, with their tails down, sneaking around the corner of the barn ? First one will run, then another, and another, until they are all under shelter. Well," he said, " that is the way some of our boys came to the boat last night." Our com- ■ON TO RICHMOND! 65 mander was on "watch " that night, and he helped all the boys across the gang plank. Several of our party left Richmond Wednesday morning and visited different points of interest. Mr. A. J. Walker and Mr. Henry Nicklin took the cars and went to Baltimore. They joined us again at some point on our way home. Mr. Phineas K. Hazen, publisher of the Lambert- ville Beacon, and Mr. Charles A. Slack, after enjoy- ing a pleasant carriage ride with the Collector of Richmond, and having been shown many places of interest throughout the city and its suburbs, left our party and went to Yorktown by rail, where they again joined us. Many others left us here and joined us at some point on our journey home. Hon. H. C. Gulick and Hon. Clayton Robbins parted from us on our arrival at Richmond and made an extensive tour of the country about Richmond. These gentlemen did not join us again. Captain Wilkes, Captain Ivory, and comrade Joseph W. Phillips were each presented with a beau- tiful badge of the Army of Northern Virginia. Gen- eral Wise presented his to Captain Wilkes ; Captain James T. Gray to Joseph W. Phillips, and Captain Thomas Booker to Captain Ivory. These badges were gotten up in Paris, and are only entrusted to those who won them by honorable service in the Confederate army. They have never been given to any person except the daughter of Stonewall Jackson and Gen. J. E. B. Stuart, and the three members of our Post. General Wise also exchanged caps with Captain Seaman. OUR DEPARTURE. Twelve o'clock Wednesday noon is the hour which we have fixed upon to leave the city of Richmond. 66 ON TO RICHMOND! The hour has approached and our party are all on board the "Gratitude." Our boys are loaded with badges received from our friends at Richmond. Nearly all the Grand Army bronze badges have dis- appeared from off the breasts of our men and have been transferred to the breasts of .our hosts. A large delegation of the Confederates have assembled at the dock to bid us a parting good-bye. Tears can be seen trickling down the cheeks of brave men as we prepare to part from those whom we have learned to love. Such a scene as this is realized only once in a lifetime. The order is given to start, and after a long and hearty shaking of hands, we haul in the ropes and slowly leave the dock. Loud huzzas are repeated over and over again until our boat is out into the stream. As we look back we see hundreds of brave men waving their hands to us as though they would beckon us back. Slowly and sorrowfully we move on. Our band, which is playing some of its spirited tunes, cannot break the thoughts which encompass us. We soon turn a point in the river, and our friends are lost to view. Thus did we meet — thus did we part. Our reception at Richmond, both in quantity and quality, was a surprise ; we knew the men we had opposed in arms were gallant and courteous gentle- men ; we expected at their hands (not from other citizens) a sincere, kindly and general welcome, but we did not anticipate the generous hospitalities, the total absence of all feelings of aversion, the want of all sensitiveness at the mention of the past, the warmth and actual effusiveness of friendly feeling toward us, and the anxiety apparent on every side to have us know that they were sincere in all that they did and said. We saw no trace of anything like animosity, or even that reserve which so. long holds at a distance the parties to a settled quarrel, among ON TO RICHMOND! 67 the men who wore the gray. No men could have used language more loyal to "the Old Union." In no part of the North or among no class of men in the North could language be heard indicating more set- tled convictions as to the value, the necessity and permanency of the national government represented by the flag we carried, or a more total absence of all feelings of aversion for it. Hence it was that we were taken by surprise and were not prepared to do justice to our friends or ourselves. We had telegraphed ahead the hour of our arrival ; we had estimated that our reception would consume an hour or so ; we had projected our plans for occu- pying and enjoying the balance of the brief period in the midst of many surroundings interesting to us ; we expected to make an extensive requisition upon the livery stables, and thoroughly scout the whole country around Richmond, from Mechanicsville to Malvern Hill, as well as visit points of interest and attractiveness within the city. But all our plans were soon forgotten — not abandoned — but forgotten ; we never thought of them again until on our way home. We surrendered as willing captives to the generous, sincere and kindly hospitality of our friends. Dur- ing the twenty-five hours we remained there they gave us time for but little sleep. At the hour designated, the committee came to the wharf at which we landed, and were received in the cabin by the officials accompanying the expedi- tion. A little wine was found among the ship's sup- plies. They extended to us a hearty welcome to the Old Dominion, and offered as a toast, "The Old Union— God bless it !" which we drank standing, with pleasantly mingled feelings, not easily analyzed or described. It began to dawn upon our minds that our hosts were not formal and reserved, but warm- hearted friends; not citizens by virtue of unwel- 68 ON TO RICHMOND! come constraint, but patriotic citizens, loyal to the heart's core, actually loving again the old flag and the Old Union. When we left Richmond we took on board several of our Richmond friends who wished to accompany us to Yorktown. Most of these gentlemen were intelligent and modest men, and our conversation with them was very pleasing. No egotism was dis- played, but each man conducted himself with true Southern civility. They gave us to understand that we had left true friends behind, and that our visit to Richmond would long be remembered. Our boat is now under full way, and with all her flags fluttering in the breeze, she glides down the his- toric old James river, as proudly as though she had forced a passage by Fort Darling, and had captured the city and was now returning to relate her victory. We repass all the points of interest on the river, and as we do so our Richmond friends explain to us many interesting incidents of the war. They point out to us the exact location of all the Confederate batteries that held the Union fleet in check. They point out to us Malvern Hill and Chaffin's Bluff. They show us the very spot where the Confederate army crossed and recrossed the river below Rich- mond on their pontoon bridges, and many other places of interest. Our party listened very intently to all that was said, and learned many things they had never known before. It was no wonder that the Federal gunboats could not force a passage by all the batteries that lined the shore on either side of the river. High bluffs were to be encountered all the way from the Dutch Gap to Richmond. The river between these two points is very narrow and crooked, and is naturally fortified on both sides. Even if Fort Darling had been cap- tured it would have been only one of the many ON TO RICHMOND! 69 strongly fortified points along the river. To a cau- tious observer it seems as though it was a piece of reckless folly for Butler and the Federal fleet to attempt to take Richmond from this quarter. As we steam down the river our party are enjoying themselves making speeches, relating amusing stories, singing, playing cards, and listening to the sweet music of the band. Our Congressman amused the party very much by relating many of his comic stories. Some of the Richmond boys also related some of their amusing army experiences. We pass through the Dutch Gap Canal on our way down, and every man is at the side of the vessel. The opening made here is about seventy-five yards wide, and the bluff about forty feet high. The water is of considerable depth, having been made so since the war. All vessels pass through this cut on their way to and from Richmond. At 2:40 p. m. we arrive at City Point, and are again honored by the Federal monitors lying off this point. The manner in which they salute us is by pulling their flag from the top of their flag staff to the deck of the vessel and running it up again. They repeat this three times. We answer by the whistle of our boat, the playing of the band and cheering. We proceed on our way down the river, and soon arrive at Wilcox Landing. We do not touch here, but we can see Johnnie and Willie Waddle's store, and several darkies are standing on the wharf looking anxiously at us as we pass. When we left Richmond it was our intention to proceed direct to Norfolk and there stop for the night, but it becoming dark and gloomy, our pilot thought it would not be advisable to run to Norfolk, so we again turned the bow of our boat towards the shore and run up alongside the dock at Newport News, where we remained over night. 70 ON TO RICHMOND! NEWPORT NEWS. Newport News has its war history as well as all the other places along the James River, but we will not tire our reader by the recital of any of the events occurring at this place during the war. There are not more than a dozen houses here. As soon as our vessel is securely fastened to the dock many of our men go ashore and reconnoitre the place. Every house is visited by some of our boys, and almost everything that can be purchased is bought. Here, as at Wilcox Landing, we see the negro in his true character. Many darkies are to be seen here. A railroad is being built through this place, and large docks are also in course of erection, and as all the work is done by the negro we come across some very odd characters. These negroes sleep in rough board sheds, boxes and on the ground in the open air. Each negro has to do his own cooking, and, as they have no stoves, it is a sight to see them squatting around their fires built upon the ground, preparing their meals. Salt pork and hoe cake is their chief diet. First they take a piece of pork and cut it in slices, and put it in a pan and "try" out the grease. They then put a quantity of meal in a small pail or other vessel, and, pouring in the grease which they have procured from the pork, with suffi- cient water added, they mix their hoe cake and bake it upon the live coals. It is amusing to see the darkies warming themselves around the smoking fires. They stand as close as possible, and, with their hands stretched out in front of them and their heads slightly turned, they defy the black, pitchy smoke which entirely envelopes them. "Don't the smoke ever drive you away?" asked ON TO RICHMOND! 71 one of our party of a middle-aged darkey, who resembled an old gnarled oak. "No, massa, we gits used to dis smoke," he replied. It seemed as though they had, for they would not budge an inch. "Where do you all sleep?" was asked of one of the darkies. "Oh, we sleeps all around yar. Some of us lays down by de fire, and some of us hides in de holes and sleeps like you Yankees did." "Yah! yah! yah! yah!" was the loud laugh with which the darkies greeted this answer. "Were you ever in Richmond?" asked Judge Buchanan of a full-blooded Ethiopian. " Yas, sir; I'se been dar a little," he replied. "Well, Rich- mond is a great place, isn't it?" queried the judge. " Yas, sir, some of Richmond is a great place," was the answer. " Well, what's the matter with the rest of Richmond?" asked the judge. This question brought forth another exclamation of " Yah ! yah ! yah ! " from the large crowd of darkies who sur- rounded the fire. There was one negro whom it was impossible to keep quiet. He wanted to either dance or sing continually. " By dog ! somebody clap fo' me; somebody clap fo' me, an' I shows you how to dance ! " was the expression he kept making. These odd creatures amused our party by singing and danc- ing for us until a late hour. Our boys treated them to cider and cakes before we left, which pleased them very much. Dr. Brock, Captain Titus, Dr. Minster and others made the acquaintance of some very intelligent white people here, and were much pleased at what they saw and heard. A CHOP SEA. About 5 o'clock in the morning we got steam up and prepared to proceed on our journey. Before 72 ON TO RICHMOND! leaving the dock a handful of money was thrown out upon the wharf among the large crowd of darkies who were there assembled. Much laughter was in- dulged in over the manner in which they tumbled each other over in their efforts to procure a piece of the silver. During the night it began to rain, and towards morning the wind had shifted, and the bay rolled and tossed like an angry sea. Judge Buchanan and James Withington, in order to escape a rough passage by water, took the cars to Yorktown, where they again met us. After we had left the dock, it was not long before we were in the midst of the dashing billows. Our boat began to roll and toss, and all on board pre- pared for a rough voyage. While our boat was a good one, many of our party were fearful that she would upset, owing to her being too top-heavy, but she ploughed through the angry waves in a splendid manner. We are now in the middle of the bay ; the waves dash and hiss their fearful sounds ; the wind drives the drizzling rain against our boat ; the wild birds flit by us as though seeking a place of refuge, and our boat is being tossed to and fro at the mercy of the sea. Our engine creaks and grinds as though in great distress. The timbers of our boat tremble as though they would fall apart. Doors and win- dows are closed, and nearly all are seeking refuge in the cabin and lower part of the boat. Fearful as is the storm, many are out upon the bow of the boat, gazing out upon the mysterious workings of the mighty waters. Many of our party have succumbed to that terrible sea-sickness which overcomes most people when out upon such a sea. Every now and then some one of our boys will rush to the side of the boat, and in a feeble and sickly manner empty the contents of his stomach into the bay. Some lie at ON TO RICHMOND! 73 full length, in the cabin and on the deck, in deathly sickness, while others sit upon the seats skirting the sides of the vessel expecting every minute to succumb. Dr. Brock and Dr. Minster are administering restora- tives to those who are sick or feel as though they might be. Three hours we are in the midst of these angry waters. When we reach Fortress Monroe the wind begins to shift. We all expected that when we arrived off the mouth of York river that we would encounter a terrible sea, but such was not the case. As we turned the bow of our boat to enter the York river, the wind had shifted and the water was comparatively smooth, and we are now about to enter one of the finest harbors in the world. About five miles ahead of us we can see the old historic town of Yorktown, with its river front lined with war vessels. Nearer and nearer we approach, and soon we are winding our way among the mighty vessels of war, and finally draw up alongside a large boat at the wharf, and immediately proceed to dis- embark. It is now about ten o'clock a. m., and we have come thirty miles since seven a. m. YORKTOWN. Immediately upon our arrival at Yorktown, we were met by Captain Mackechney, a member of our Post, who was connected with the Quartermaster's department of the New Jersey troops, who imme- diately proceeded to conduct us to the camp of the New Jersey Battalion, and to the tent of our Com- mander who was the Major of the battalion. We fell into line, and each man carrying a silk corps flag, we presented a very creditable appearance. 74 ON TO RICHMOND! It was about three miles to where the troops lay, and we were compelled to go this distance over the most dusty roads it has ever been our misfortune to see. The great military review was going on at this time, and as we march past we can see heavy bodies of troops moving rapidly past the reviewing stand, which is occupied by the President, Secretary Blaine, General Hancock, and all the French officers, besides many other prominent military men and civilians. We look over the fields and for miles we see massive bodies of soldiers wheeling and moving about in various directions. It forcibly reminds one of some of the grand reviews which took place during the war, except at this review Southern troops march side by side with troops from the North. The sight is a grand one, and while the dust is several inches deep and is flying in dense clouds, the soldiers pre- sent a splendid appearance. As the New Jersey troops marched past the reviewing stand it seemed as though they were linked together, so straight was their line and so solidly did they march. The march to the camp was a long, tedious one, and the day was excessively hot. All buildings that we saw were of a rude character, and nothing attrac- tive met our eye. We trudged on and soon began to enter the camp. First we would come to a New York regiment, then to a Georgia regiment, and so on until we come to the camp of the " Old First Infantry," of Richmond. Here we were greeted with cheer after cheer, to which we responded in a hearty manner. We now pass the "Veteran Camp," as it is called. This camp is composed entirely of veterans of the late war. We are greeted with loud cheers by our late comrades. A few moments longer and we enter the camp of the New Jersey troops, and march to the ON TO RICHMOND! 75 open space in front of the field-officers quarters and halt. Here we " break ranks," place our corps flags in the Major's tent and. wander over the fields of Yorktown. The troops not having yet arrived from the review grounds our party scatter in all quarters. Some visit the " Old First Virginia " along with the boys who accompanied us from Richmond, and some visit friends who belong to other regiments on the ground. Many of our boys retrace their steps and go down to the boat and wander through the " town " and along the river viewing the war vessels as they are preparing for their grand review, while many of us remain in the camp of the Jersey Blues, where Captain Bamford entertains us in a very hospitable manner. Soon the soldiers arrive in camp and entertain us in a handsome manner. Major Donnelly throws open the doors of his tent and bids us all to partake of his hospitality. We enjoy ourselves in this man- ner for some time. Major Jas. S. Yard invites us all to his hospitable board, where we do ample justice to ourselves. The boys are becoming tired of Yorktown, and are now anxious to return to the boat. We cannot gather many of our boys together — not more than a score. With this number we gather in front of the Major's tent where we are photographed, and then prepare to leave camp. With our band playing we bid good-bye to our soldier friends and proceed to the boat. On our way back we stop at the camp of the " Old First Virginia," where we are heartily received. Our band discourses some of its sweetest music. Our officers are introduced to the officers of this regiment, and after a few remarks by General Camp- bell, Hon. John A. Wise, son of ex-Governor Wise, stepped forward and said : 76 ON TO RICHMOND! "Soldiers, in behalf of the old soldiers of Vir- ginia allow me to thank you for this cordial expres- sion of your feeling of patriotic love. The happiest moments of my life are now being realized by the meeting together of the blue and the grey. If you think there are any among us who entertain any feel- ing of hatred toward you, whom many of us perhaps have met face to face upon the field of battle, you must discard that thought. We love you all the more. We fought for what we deemed was right, and were beaten, but we are to day as loyal to the old flag, and the institutions of national liberty, in- tegrity and freedom, as yourselves, and God grant that the ties of patriotic devotion to country and the maintenance of the principles as established upon this sacred spot a hundred years ago, and handed down to us by our forefathers, may grow stronger and stronger, and that future generations may say that we are then as now the greatest and most patri- otic country upon the face of the earth. This great gathering together of the soldiers from all sections of the country, upon the historic battle fields of York- town, and the interchange of friendly feelings with each other, will do more to bind us together in one common brotherhood as American citizens than a hundred years of war or peace. Let us all strive to do our whole duty as citizens. Let us vie with each other as to who will do the most to build up our country upon a basis of honesty, loyalty and integ- rity, and if each will do the best he can we have no fears of the future." After a few happy remarks by Col. E. H. Murphy, Captain "Dick" Wise, also a son of ex-Governor Wise, said : "I was a soldier in the Confederate army, and I did all I could to bring victory to our arms. I ON TO RICHMOND! 77 served from the beginning of the war to its close, at Appomattox, and I am proud of the fact. My heart and soul was with the cause. I am not ashamed of anything I did. But the war is over, and all true soldiers will bury the hatchet. It is not those who stood in the front line of battle and bared their breasts to receive the deadly shot, in defence of their principles, who are keeping alive the issues of the past, but it is the ' skulker ' — he who followed the army, out of range of the rifle, and rifled the pocket of the dead soldier, and tifrned his sock inside out expecting to find a gold watch. I say it is the poli- tician ' camp follower' the 'army beat,' the coward, who was always sick when a battle took place, who is doing all the blowing now. We, the true soldiers of the South, love, as you soldiers of the North, to come together and talk over the experiences of our army life. I loved and admired the genius of Lee, the dashing courage of Jackson, the bull-dog pluck of Grant, and the bravery and fidelity of the private soldier, and now that the war is over we must be as good a citizen as we were a soldier. United we are a great people, and if we get into trouble with any foreign nation it would be better for them to settle the differences by arbitration, for if it comes to a conflict of arms the Southern soldier, side by side of the soldier of the North, will give them the very devil. The only thing I am sorry for is that the Confederacy did not hold on to the old stars and stripes. I advocated it in the beginning, because I love the old flag of our forefathers. ' ' After a general shaking of hands we bid farewell to the members of this regiment, and to those who accompanied us from Richmond, and our boys pro- ceed to visit the camp of the veteran soldiers. Before leaving the Virginia camp Capt. "Dick" Wise and 78 ON TO RICHMOND! Capt. James F. Brook exchanged caps with each other, each saying he would keep it as a souvenir. Arriving at the veteran camp oar band gave the boys a serenade. The commander of the veterans then made a few appropriate remarks. After spend- ing a few pleasant moments here, our boys fell in line and proceeded direct to the river. Here we saw the grand naval review. We could not go aboard our boat for a long time, as she could not approach a landing on account of the large num- ber of vessels lying along the wharves. Here are eight or ten war vessels in line, executing all the manoeu- vres pertaining to a naval review. All eyes are turned to the "Trenton," which is the flagship, as she gives her orders to the other vessels by flag sig- nal. The revenue cutter, "Dispatch," containing the President and a large number of officers, passed on the right of each vessel. After passing all the vessels the men were piped to quarters. It was a grand sight to see the sailors at "dress ship." This is done by the sailors standing on the yard arms of each vessel while the review was being made. The heavy cannonading which took place seemed to shake the very earth. Many of our party who had gone to the river earlier, and who had boarded our boat, had a fine view of the review. They were drifting around among these vessels for a long time. James C. Tay- lor, William Mendham, William McGowan and Weistling Zerman obtained permission to board the flagship "Trenton," and were shown through the vessel by the officers. They were much inter- ested in what they saw. After the review is over we board our vessel, and conclude to remain at Yorktown over night and wit- ness the grand display of fireworks. We anchor out in the stream, and from the deck of our boat we can see all that is going on. ON TO RICHMOND! 79 Here the boys get a rest, and bright and early we throw our flags to the breeze and steam majestically out of the river and soon leave Yorktown in the distance. HOMEWARD BOUND. When we left Yorktown we did so with the inten- tion of going direct to Baltimore. After we got out upon the rough bay, we found we could not visit Baltimore and arrive at Trenton the next day at the time we expected, so the route was changed and orders were given to go direct to Trenton. Much dissatisfaction was manifested over this change in the programme, and a vote was taken whether we should go to Baltimore or go direct to Trenton. By a large majority they voted to go to Trenton. After a ride of two hundred and twenty miles with the smoking-gown belonging to Joseph W. Phillips (which some of the boys spirited away from under his head while he was lying down) flying at the mast- head, at eight o'clock p. m. we arrive at Chesapeake City. Here we stop for two hours in order to serenade the ladies who so kindly presented us with bouquets on our way through this place to Richmond. Our men all fell into line and marched to the resi- dence of Mrs. Hopper, where the band played several sweet tunes. James C. Taylor, Jr., introduced Gen- eral Campbell, Judge Buchanan, Col. Murphy, and others, to the ladies gathered at Mrs. Hopper's resi- dence, and after thanking them kindly for their gen- erosity toward us, we marched to the residence of Mrs. Brady, where the same programme was carried out At this plnce some of our boys purchased several tin horns, and after the boat had got underway, they 80 ON TO RICHMOND! formed themselves into a company — some with horns, some with tin pans, and others with basins, and made " night hideous " with fearful sounds. They enjoyed themselves until they became thoroughly exhausted, when they laid aside their instruments for the night, wrapped their army blankets around them and lay them down to "pleasant" dreams. At four o'clock in the morning we arrived at Chester where we lay about three hours. Many of our boys go ashore here and get a warm breakfast, and take a walk around the city. We left Chester and proceeded on our journey up the Delaware river, and about ten o'clock we bring up alongside the dock at Walnut street, Philadelphia. We leave several of our party off here. Leaving Philadelphia we are saluted by a large number of vessels in the harbor. We reach Borden- town, and are greeted by scores of ladies who come to the brink of the river and welcome us home. We enter the canal, and the boys are all brushing themselves up ready for their reception at Trenton. We soon arrive at our wharf, and are met by the members of our Post who could not accompany us, and a delegation of Post No. 8, and hundreds of our citizens. The ladies greet us on every hand and welcome us home. We fall in line and to the music of the band march up Broad to State ; to Warren ; to Perry ; to Greene ; to our headquarters and dismiss. Many of our party repair to the residence of Adam Exton, where preparations have been made to receive them. Hundreds of people asked us about our trip, and expressed their regrets that they could not go with us. It is not necessary to say that we were welcomed to our homes by our wives and sweethearts by a loving affection. ON TO RICHMOND! 81 CONCLUSION. In conclusion, I would say that our trip to Rich- mond was all that we expected. We knew the feel- ing existing throughout the South was as warm toward the old flag as at the North. Never was any city in the North so gaily decorated with our national flags as Richmond the morning we entered. Every post, awning, door, window and every available space bore the stars and stripes. Banners were hung across the streets at short intervals all along. As we entered the city, it seemed like entering a forest of flags. Now this means something ; and if so, it means patriotism, loyalty and devotion to country. I say we knew this was so, and we were glad to have it verified The people of Richmond are a warm hearted, industrious and intelligent body of men, and they displayed their manhood in a thousand different ways while we were their guests. The hope and prayer of all our party, as well as the leading citi- zens of Trenton, is that we may soon have the plea- sure of meeting these old ex-Confederate soldiers here upon the battle fields of Trenton. FINIS. ■'■,.ll, I k 1 - r,\ ; \