W [««' Class \Jd93 0^ T.,J:A^^''' Book Copyriglit]^«__l4A4 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. tfo' M l^fr.i PLANT CULTURE PLANT CULTURE A WORKING HAND-BOOK OF EVERY DAY PRACTICE FOR ALL WHO GROW FLOWERING AND ORNA- MENTAL PLANTS IN THE GAR- DEN AND GREENHOUSE BY GEORGE W. OLIVER Propagator to the Bureau of Plant Industry, U. S. Department of Agriculture NEW YORK A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO., LTD 1909 Copyright Entered According to Act of Congress in the Year 1900 by A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING COMPANY, LTD New York SECOND EDITION, REVISED Copyrighted 1909 by A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING COMPA^fY, LTD New York ©Stf^ / 1909 Ct A 24 6 4 6 AUi 26 1909 All Rights Reserved PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION. In nearly all of the recent works of this nature, appearing in America, the subjects dealt with have been confined, more or less, to those plants that can be and are cultivated by commercial florists for profit, or by those who own conserva- tories. And while the present book includes all this class of in- formation it has a far wider scope treating, as it does, on the care and management of a diversity of plants not touched upon by other writers, all equally necessary in the adornment of our gardens and homes and, for this purpose, as beautiful and inter- esting as those that generally receive the greatest attention from authors of most horticultural works. Divested of superfluous verbiage, and shorn of perplexing technicalities which tend to confuse, the cultural directions here given can be easily and successfully followed, the results contributing to the perfect enjoyment of "the purdjsi: o\ 'human pleasures," by some, and What I have given 'hefe-^are- teachings gleaned and sifted from the experience of many years' vvork as a gardener. The methods described are such as have been successfully practiced by me and can be safely relied on as up-to-date and thoroughly applicable to American conditions and require- ments. While the notes have been made short, they will, never- theless, in most cases, cover the essential points in the methods of raising and caring for the plants named, and be understood by the average reader as easily as if they had been dealt with in longer articles. Hitherto, the information available on the subjects treated upon has, for the most part, been widely scattered in numerous magazines and books, many of which are expensive; and it is often found necessar)- to search through a mass of technical details in order to find the required information. It is to be hoped that the present volume will, in great measure, reduce the difficulties referred to, and render the art of plant cultivation profitable and enjoy able to the many whose tastes are horticultural. George W. Oliver Washington, July, 1909. CONTENTS. (For classified index, see pages 301 308) Page Preface to Second Edition ----- 5 Stove and Greenhouse Plants - - - - 9 Bedding Plants - - - - - - 67 Vase and Basket Plants 90 Vines, Hardy and Tender - - - - 94 Bulbous Plants 114 Ornamental Grasses - - - - - -135 Water Plants— Aquatics 143 Ferns and Lycopods - - - - - 150 Hardy Perennial Plants 165 Hardy Shrubs ------- ZZb General Directions - - - - - -283 Propagation - - - - - - - LOj Seeds 283 Grafting 286-291 Budding 291 I • - - 292 Layering - - - - ^^ y i- Hybridization - - - - - " -ZVn Potting Plants 294 Soil - - - 298 Mulching ------- 298 Watering - - - - - - - 299 Stove and Greenhouse Plants ABUTILON — Several of the varieties liaving ornamental foliage, such as A. Darwini tesselatum, A. Sellowianum marmoratum, A. vexillarium and Eclipse, are good bedding plants. The last two are useful for vases and boxes. All of them havetheleaves blotched with yellow. Souvenir de Bonn and Savitzii are variegated with white. Cnttings are rooted in the Fall, or may betaken in early Spring from lifted and cut back plants. The varieties grown for their flowers are numerous; the colors are pink, red, white and yellow. They are everblooming. ACACIA — Sfeedling Acacias are not to be recommended for small flowering plants, on account of their lanky growth. Not only are plants from cuttings most floriferous, but they are easier trained to any desired shape. They should be taken from the half-npened shoots during the month of June. A peatty soil mixed with half sand should be used, as the roots will take nourishment from it immediately they are formed. Make the cuttings with a sharp knife and take off the leaves from the part which is to go in the soil with a small pair of sharp scissors. The pots for rooting the cuttings in should be prepared carefully — rough crocks in the bottom and finer above, until they are filled to within two inches of the rim. The remaining space should be filled with finely sifted peat and sand in equal parts topped off with pure sand. Dibble in the cuttings to the depth of about an inch and not too crowded. They must be kept " close " during the operation of rooting, and as cool as possible. The pots, which may be plunged in sand, should be covered with a movable glass structure. A good plan Is to have two sets of those hand-light or bell-glasses, and instead of wiping the moisture from them daily, remove the wet ones and slip over them those which are dry. After the first watering the cuttings will take but little more during the process of rooting; when they do require it the foliage should be allowed to dry before putting back the covers. Acacia Eiceana is perhaps the finest greenhouse species for very large plants. A. pubes- cens, A. Drummondi and A. paradoxa are all good greenhouse species, flowering w^ell on moderate-sized specimens. Sandy loam, to which a goodly quantity of leaf soil or peat is added, will suit them. Firm pot- ting and good drainage are necessary. Plunge the plants outside dur- ing Summer, and give liberal supplies of water when the plants are well established. ACALYPHA HISPIDA — Large plants in pots are speedily produced by using a goodly quantity of bone meal in the soil. Grow in a high tem- perature. If tall plants are wanted, keep nipping out the flower spikes as they appear in the axils of the leaves. When the plant reaches the desired height nip out the ends of the shoots; this will cause branching. AQAPANTHUS UMBELLATUS— The African blue Lily is a desirable plant for cool greenhouses, and ornamental either in or out of bloom. In general appearance it resembles the Imantophyllum, but the flowers 10 STOVE AND GEEESHOUSE PLANTS. are bright blue, a great number of them being produced in an umbel supported by a long, stout stalk. The Agapanthus is one of those plants which have the appearance of doing well with cramped root room, so there is a temptation when potting other things to leave the plants for another year; but this practice is carried on at the expense of the magnificent heads of flowers, which get smaller and smaller until a season goes by without any being produced. This species sometimes stands the Winters at Washington, D. C, in sheltered positions. There are several varieties — the white, double-flowered and the variety with variegated leaves being the most conspicuous. AQATH/EA CCELESTIS — A cool greenhouse, low-growing shrub with blue, daisy-like flowers produced principally in Winter. Cuttings should be taken from the soft wood in Fall and Spring. It will stand full sun at all seasons. AGAVE AflERICANA and its variegated forms, together with several other more or less ornamental species, are much cultivated in pots and tubs. They grow best in rather poor but well-drained soil, and are increased by seeds and offsets. The flowering period of adult specimens is hastened by keeping them in a pot-bound state. On the other hand, growth of foliage is accelerated by giving abundant root room. ALLAHANDAS — Among the select flowering plants for temporarj' or permanent use in tubs we must include the large flowering allamandas known as cathartica Schottii and grandiflora. They will thrive in shade or sun; where a little shade is available the flowers naturally last longer. The flowers are large, almost the size of the moonflower, but more lasting, the shoots ramble over the sides of the tubs. Procure some young plants in the beginning of May and a little later plant in the open to make growth for cuttings. After cutting them back for propagation lift and pot, partly resting them for the Winter. For Im- mediate effect after planting out start early in the Spring; one plant to a tub, among other things, is sufficient. The best upright growing species is named Williamsii, a grand plant either for boxes, tubs or for bedding out; it is easily propagated in the Fall from ripe cuttings. The larger flowered kinds, when represented by large plants, are very desirable for isolating on a lawn. A good, rich, light soil is necessary, and if a tub is used for the plant put enough drainage in the bottom so that the plant when knocked out of the pot will rest on the drainage. Ram the soil firmly around the ball, shorten back the strong growths and stand the plants in a partly shaded spot, syringing frequently. In a few weeks' time, the kinds grown under the names Wardleana, Hen- dersoni and Schottii, will give an abundant display of their wide, trumpet -shaped, yellow flowers. When trained near the roof of a warm greenhouse they may be had In bloom the greater part of the Winter months. In fact, they can be so managed as to have them bloom at any time of the year, by first resting the plants, pruning back and encouraging the root growth. Cuttings of the ripe wood will root in a warm propagating house at any season. ALOCASIA — Although among the most ornamental of stove plants, none of them can be put to much use outside of these structures. Out STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 11 of a large number of ppecies anri forms, A. metallica, A. SedenM, A. Tlii- bautiana, A. Sanderiana and A. macrurhiza variegata are well knowu. The two last named are increased by offsets; the others, by cutting up the succulent stems of old plants. Put the pieces in damp moss, in a propagating frame, with a temperature of 80 degrees. After sprouting put them in a potting mixture similar to that given for nepenthes. The plants must be shaded from the ^sun at all times, and grown in a mini- mum temperature of 60 degrees. ALOYSIA CITRIODORA— The sweet-scented verbena, grows very strongly when planted out, finishing up the season by covering itself with myriads of small, insignificant flowers. It is a very popular plant, on account of its sweet-smelling leaves, being almost identical in this respect with those of the lemon grass and Eucalyptus citriodora. Keep some old plants over Winter; start them early in Spring and root the growths, as soon as they get enough length to them, in warm sand bed. AHARYLLIS— See Bulbous Plants. ANANAS — Ananas Porteana is hardly worth growing for its variega- tion when we have the splendid variegated forms of the common pine- apple — A. sativa. In a warm, sheltered place all of the kinds do well out-of-doors in Summer, where they put on exquisite colorings. If grown large enough the plants will fruit in the same way as the green- leaved forms. In fact, it is best to allow them to fruit, as subsequently they form suckers the more readily. These suckers may be rooted in sand, not too moist, but very warm. After being potted off and taken with the soil a little they will stand full sunlight without injury. ANTHERICUM VARIEQATUM is a good all-round plant for vasgs, bed- ding, or potted for window decoration, although for the last-named purpose it is surpassed by the variety known as A. media picta. If the plants which were lifted in the Fall are allowed to bloom, and the flower stalks remain on the plants afterward, a good opportunity to increase the stock of plants presents itself during February. All along the flowering stems will be found a crop of small rosettes of leaves which, if cut off, stems and all, and laid on the sand in the shaded part of a warm house, will send out roots in a short time. Large clumps of A. variegatum, which have been hibernating under benches, should be broken up about the end of January and potted in 3 and 4-inch pots. They may be placed under benches where the light will strike them for at least a portion of the day. ANTHURIUn — The species of this genus are grown either for foliage or flower. None of them has handsome foliage and showy flowers com- bined in the same plant. A crystallinum, A. Veitchii and A. Warocque- anum are very beautiful foliage plants, but the flowers are inconspicu- ous. On the other hand A. Andreanum, A. ornatum and their numerous hybrid progeny, together with A. Scherzerianum and varieties, have rather ordinary -looking leaves; but in each case the inflorescence is ex- ceedingly attractive. The showy part of the inflorescence is what is termed the spathe, answering the same purpose as calyx and corolla in other flowers. Their cultural needs are: temperature, 65 to 85 degrees; 12 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. shade at all times, lightest in Winter. The potting mixture should be rough, fibry peat, sphagnum, decayed cow manure and sand, except for A. Scherzerianum, which needs less sphagnum and more peat. Water should be copiously supplied in the growing season. Toward the end of January, with increasing sun heat, these plants will soon commence active growth for the season. Before this takes place they should be looked over for the purpose of repotting or for rooting any tall or strag- gling growths which have grown away from the sphagnum in the pot. In this condition the roots, which are formed at the bases of the leaf stems, shrivel up for want of moisture and the plant becomes shy in blooming. Cut off the shoots that are in this condition and put in a mixture of sphagnum and sand in a warm part of the propagating bench; keep moist and roots will form in abundance in about three weeks, when they should be potted up in the usual way. Old plants should have the lower part of the stem and roots removed, and sunk lower in the pot, using a mixture of fibrous peat, sphagnum, well decom- posed cow manure, charcoal and sand. This treatment applies only to such kinds as A. Andreanum, A. ornatum and their numerous hybrid progeny, all of vv^hich produce very showy flowers which may be used to advantage associated with those of orchids. Their cultivation is exceedingly simple where sufllcient heat is at command, a minimum tem- perature of 65 degrees F. being necessary. APONOQETON DISTACHYON— This is not a greenhouse plant, but, where opportunities offer, it certainly should be grown as such. It is known as the Cape Pond Weed. The flowers, arranged much in the same way as those of the Ouvirandra, have large, showy white bracts; very sweet smelling. In its native haunts the seeds germinate on the surface of the water, forming very small tubers which, when the leaves decay, sink to the bottom of the pond and become established there. ARALIA — Aralia Veitchii and A. gracillima are readily rooted if the cuttings are taken at the proper time; that is, when young shoots develop on a cut-back plant, and they are removed with a heel and kept in a close, warm propagating frame. But this is a slower method than grafting if the necessary stocks are at hand. A. Guilfoylei, or any of the woody species of Panax, make good enough stock on which to work them. Select long, wiry wood for cions — that which is not too thick and well ripened. In the cions a piece of the stem to each leaf is all that is necessary. Cut the stock clear across and down to as near the soil as possible; make an incisionin it downward for three-quarters of an inch. Make the wood of the cion wedge-shaped to fit the incision, and tie to keep in poeUion till united, during which process they should be kept in a rather warm, humid atmosphere — a moderately warm propagating frame will answer. The leaves of the cions, if too large, should be short- ened back a little. March is the best month in which to perform the operation. Aralia Chabrierii, so called, strikes so readily from cuttings put in a cool house that there is no necessity for grafting them. Aralia (Fatsia) japonica is conceded to be one of the best plants for decorative purposes, but like several other good things in this line it is SrOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 13 Anthueium Andkeanum. Germination. — See page It. GERMINATION OF Ardisia crenulata. — See page IJ/ 14 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. not got up in any very great quantity, possibly from methods of propa- gation not being evident. It is rather backward in producing seeds in this country, although moderately large plants flower freely enough. From cuttings, by topping old plants, it is rather slow. It is said to vegetate from pieces of the roots. I have not tried this method. Seeds are obtainable from some of the European firms at reasonable prices. These should be got hold of during March or April and sown then, as they do not retain their vitality for any great length of time. Firm the soil in the seed pans before sowing, and cover with a mixture of loam and sand; place in a temperature suitable for warm greenhouse ijlants, shaded from the sun. The seedlings, as soon as large enough to handle, should be potted off singly into 2-inch pots, and when in 4-iuch pots they should be plunged outside during the Summer, in a frame covered with slats, or with sash-tilted top and bottom alternately. When large enough for a shift they should get it, as they suffer from being root- bound. Old plants will stand considerable frost, but the young plants are always more tender and should on the approach of cool weather be given protection. A. J. variegata is a highly ornamental form. ARAUCARIAS — In the propagation of the Araucaria a good plan is to procure seed and sow at the end of the year. The seedlings are, of course, not well-furnished at the base, but thej' make good stock plants and cheaper ones than can be procured otherwise. The finely ripened tops of the seedlings are so easy to root that, with ordinary care, it is almost impossible to lose a cutting Moreover, the cut-back plants will immediately begin to throw up good leaders, which in turn are used for cuttings. In taking cuttings from plants which have attained consider- able size, the lateral branches may be rooted along with the tops— not for making specimen plants, because this is impossible, but for the pur- pose of providing material for cuttings; for, when cut back, they will throw up leaders, which are as good as the best. The soil for propa- gating should be sandy, and pressed firmly about the base of the cut- tings, which should be kept in a frame shaded from sunlight, with enough moisture in the atmosphere to keep them from wilting. Keep the temperature a little higher after the cuttings have caUused. Most of the plants used in this country (principally A. excelsa) are imported from Europe. This Araucaria is a native of Norfolk Island and is known as the Norfolk Island Pine. The best place for the plants in Summer is under a structure covered with slats, in which similarly con- stituted plants may pass the hot months. ARDISIA — The red-berried ardisia, A. crenulata, continues to be one of the most attractive Christmas plants. It can be recommended as a first-class window subject, owing to its apparent indifference to a little cold or occasional neglect in the way of watering. Seeds may be sown during the latter part of January. Plants over one year old are never without a crop of seed at any season, if they are in good health; and frequently we see them with two crops at one time along with the flowers, which in a short period produce the third crop of berries. The old fruits have usually a grimy appearance from hanging so long on the STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 15 Aedisia cbenulata. Perfect Plant. — See page I4 16 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. bush. When there is any choice in the matter the oldest berries should betaken for sowing, as they will be the first to fall from the plant. Wash the pulp from around the seed and sow immediately, cover the seeds with a quarter of an inch of soil, firming well and giving the pots or boxes a position in a cool house. Keep the soil moderately damp, with abundance of air during mild weather. Conditions such as these will give the seed ample time to germinate and make plants in 4- inch pots by the following Fall. Cuttings root freely in sand, but do not make as symmetrical plants as seedlings. When the old plants get leggy the tops are easily rooted by making an incision in the stems and tying moss around them. These tops make very fine dwarf specimens. ASPARAGUS— As pot plants there are only three species of any value; these are A. plumosus nanus, A. tenuissimus and A. Sprengeri. A. plumosus is a very distinct plant from A. plumosus nanus and probably is a distinct species. (See Vines). A. plumosus nanus makes a profusion of short growths from the base, and may be kept in this condition by pot culture and pinching shoots that show a tendency to run up; for it will grow 30 feet high under proper conditions. Dividing starved plants is the readiest method of increasing stock. Wash out the roots and place the divisions in moderately wet sand, to make a few roots before potting. A. tenuissimus should be rooted from cuttings. Unlike the other kinds it is easy to manage in this respect. A. Sprengeri does best where its branches are allowed to hang down instead of being planted in a bed like the better known A. plumosus nanus. The ideal method is to have the plants in large wire baskets suspended from the roof of a house; and where the plants underneath don't suffer from drip or shade this system will work all right. Where a large supply of this green is wanted the north wall of a house may be used economically by erecting trough-like receptacles ruiming the entire length of the house. The top one may be as near the glass as possible, the next in front 6 or 8 inches lower down, and so on, giving enough room to prevent crowding of the branches. Old plants may be divided for planting out, and for small specimens in pots, which are useful in associating with ferns. Seedlings are easily raised. The plants ripen seed in midwinter. If cleaned and sown as soon as ripe the seeds germinate quickly. ASPIDISTRA — The usual wav to increase the stock of these very valu- able decorative plants is to divide up large specimens into small pieces, potting and keeping close until they make fresh roots. A method requir- ing a little more work, certainly, but giving salable plants in a shorter period, and more of them, as every small piece will grow, is to shake the old plants out, disentangle the rhizomes as carefully as possible, and wash clean, saving every little piece tliat is likely to grow. Cut the rhi- zomes into small pieces, with roots attached, and put in the sand bed to make fresh roots; subsequently put in small pots and keep close for a few days. A. elatior and A. elatior variegata are the ones most com- STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 17 monly grown. It is said that A. lurida is hardy as far North as Phila- delphia. ASPLENIUM— See Ferns. AZALEA — Indian Azaleas used so extensively for Winter and Spring flowering are European grown. They arrive in the Fall in wonderfully good condition, as a rule. The Newly Imported Plants — These should not be potted in the first kind of soil that comes to hand; rather choose that which is as far as possible like the materialin which they have been grown. Firm potting is very very important. The rootlets are exceedingly fine and they make but little progress in loose soil when in pots. Examine the roots care- fully before potting, and if the balls are at all dry, stand them in a tub of water until wet through; allow to drain, then pot. This treatment should be given to all plants of the same nature, such as Andromedas, Kalmias, Ericas, Epacris and Rhododendrons, as they all have roots of the same nature. For the first week or two after potting put the plants in a deep frame with the sash kept on ; and for those which are meant for later flowering this frame, if frost can be kept out of it, will be the proper place to Winter the plants. All of these plants should be grown without manure of any kind. Removing Side Growths — Azalea plants which for forcing purposes are in a comparatively high temperature, and otherwise under conditions with which they are unaccustomed, will push out growths at the bases of the flower buds; especially is this the case with plants the roots of which are in perfect order. This tendency is shown less earlier in the season than later on, but whenever it does occur, the sooner the growths are removed the better are the chances for the perfect development of the flowers. Treatment ^During Summer— Azalea plants left unsold in Spring will increase in value if they are properly handled during the Summer months. It pays to "grow on" imported Azaleas, from small plants into big ones, because, when lifted in the Fall, they are equally as good as, if not better than, imported plants for general use, and much better for forcing. About the beginning of May stand the plants which have been in the greenhouse in a cold frame or a sheltered spot outside, to gradu- ally harden them off previous to putting them in the ground, so that when that operation is performed they will not get chilled at the roots. In a few days prepare a bed for them; dig a trench of sufiicient size for the balls, keeping the sizes together. Scatter a couple of inches of leaf mould and sand in the trench; knock the plants out of their pots, if necessary reduce the balls a little; place in the trench, fill in with a mix- ture of leaf soil, sand and loam, ramming it firm around them. Some lath slats on very hot days, pinchings when necessary and frequent waterings with the hose, will be all that is required for the next five months. At the expiration of that time they will have ripened their growth for the season, when they may be lifted and the balls reduced in size so as to go comfortably into the proper-sized pots. BEGONIA — This genus is a deservedly popular one, as it possesses numerous species and varieties, useful either as greenhouse, window or 18 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. * ? Begonia Gloire de Lobraine. — See page 19 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 19 bedding plants. Nearly all of them will grow in a wide range of soils. Two parts loam and a third of equal parts decayed cow manure and sand will be found to answer the requirements of most of them. Sowing Seed — The seeds of all Begonias are very minute and should be sown on finely sifted and previously watered soil, without covering, excepting perhaps a very fine dusting of clean sand. The pan may be covered with glass until germination takes place. The tuberous rooted section behave grandly in some parts of the country when planted out. In the warmer localities they do not thrive. The tubers are Wintered much in the same way as those of Caladiums or Gloxinias. Young plants are raised from seed in Spring, but they bloom late. Winter Bloomers— Begonia Gloire de Sceaux is a hybrid between B. Hubpeltata and B. socotrana, the latter being one of the parents of the wonderfully floriferous Gloire de Lorraine. Gloire de Sceaux is a trifle miffy and that is probably the reason we see less of it grown than we did a few years ago. Flowering wood is not the best for cuttings. Young plants are best started from the leaves. When well flowered it is a very effective plant for decorations, owing to the bronzy color of the foliage and bright pink flowers. Paul Bruant is one of the best flower- ing of the genus, and one which does well in a house window; the foliage slightly resembles that of B. Gilsonii, another good Winter bloomer, with double flowers, said to have been raised before the War of the Ee- bellion by a colored man named Gilson. Its history would be interest- ing, seeing that it is a shrubby kind with the flowers double. President Carnot, after having grown this hybrid since it was sent out a few years ago, I have come to the conclusion that the best way to manage i", in the absence of a place in the greenhouse, where it can be planted out, is to put it out in the open lot in the Summer, where it is encouraged to make all the growth possible; lift with a good ball, pot carefully, when it will flower in midwinter most profusely. Thelarge clusters of female flowers are one of the most attractive features in the greenhouse in mid- winter. Two other good AVinter blooming species for house culture are B. manicata aurea and B. acuminata; the former has light pink flowers and yellow spotted leaves; the latter small, crisp-looking foliage and pure white flowers. BegoniacoralHna— To grow this species from seed is rather unsatis- factory; it takes the best part of a year to bloom and then, as a rule, many of the seedlings are inferior to the forms already in cultivation, the most noticeable point being their lack of free-blooming qualities. Cuttings of this, the queen of shrubby Begonias, either for bedding pur- poses or pot plants, should always be preferred, as they begin to flower shortly after being potted oft. It is a species which stands very rich soil. Other good shrubby kinds are B. nitida and B. nitida alba, B. incarnata, B. fuchsioides, B. Saundersii and B. semperflorens gigantea rosea. Begonia Qloire de Lorraine was raised about seventeen years ago. It is a hybrid between B. socotrana (a species discovered In the Island of 20 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. Socotra, by Alexander Scott, the gardener who accompanied Professor Bay ley Balfour) and the old B. Dregei. As a Winter bloomer it is per- haps the finest of all recent hybrids. The first growths made by the rooted cuttings all go to flowers, afterward some growths more or less vigorous are made from the base. These make excellent material for cuttings. Young plants are also raised from mature leaves. The shoots should be allowed to be well above the sand before being potted. The floriferousness of this Begonia may be partly accounted for by the fact of its being almost without femaleflowers, and also by the stamens producing little or no pollen. Among a large number of plants I have seen only a very few female flowers, and these are, so far as noticed, only produced at the very ends of the flowering stems. The pollen is produced exceedingly sparingly, many of the flowers having none at all. Rex Begonias, Leaf Cuttings of — After the rush of propagating the soft wooded plants in the Fall the cuttings of the Bex Begonias may be put in the sand bed. Select the mature leaver of those plants which are growing In a rather cool house. The pieces for cuttings will give good results if they be cut in a triangular shape, three Indies each way. The part to be inserted in the cand should end with one of the thick ribs or veins which are prominent on the undersides of the leaves. From a medium-sized leaf eight or ten cuttings can be got. Put them in the sand to the depth of about an inch and maintain a moderately humid atmosphere to prevent wilting. Place in thumb pots as soon as the leaves show above the sand. The old leaves are sometimes used entire, first by giving a few cuts across the principal ribs, then placing them flat on damp sand or moss. The othermethod is to be preferred, because more plants can be got from one leaf. It is equally as quick, and takes up much less room on the propagating bench. So far as color is con- cerned few of the newer sorts are improvements over the better known kinds, such as Philadelphus, Inimitable, Silver Queen, Fire King, Mrs. Rivers and Marshalli. BOUQAINVILLEA — There are at least five kinds in cultivation. B. spectabilis is as free blooming as any, but only on large specimens. It is very useful for training along the roof in the same way as B. glabra. A season of rest, followed by severe pruning, usually induces an abun- dant flowering growth. B. glabra Sanderiana differs from the tpye in being smaller in the flower and more floriferous in a fsmall state. Small specimens from cuttings, rooted in the beginning of the year, will bloom the following Winter; but larger plants take a couple of years to develop. They should be allowed to make their growth out-of-doors, either in the small or large state. There is not much to be gained by planting out, as they make few roots. Plunging answers well enough, with a shift in midseason, if necessary. After the plants are brought in- doors the large, soft growths may be shortened, and an intermediate temperature maintained until the plants are started into growth, when more water and heat are given. After they have made a start, doses of weak liquid manure are beneficial. When in bloom, gradually harden off, or the flowers will fall in showers. STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 21 BOUVARDIA — A much grown Winter-flowering plant Bome years ago; now comparatively few are to be seen. Young plants are raised early in Spring, from small pieces of the roots, placed in flats of sand and kept in a warm house. For the first week or two cover the surface of the sand with damp sphagnum moss; this will encourage the formation of buds on the roots. When the growths are of sufficient size, put in 2-iuch pots, shifting into 3-inch pots, and plant outside during the latter part of May. To make bushy plants the leading shoots should be pinched repeatedly. About the middle of September, or earlier, according to location, the plants are lifted with balls of earth attached, and either planted on benches or put in pots. Keep the atmosphere moist and close for the first few days, and the plants shaded from the sun. A mini- mum temperature of 55 degrees is necessary for perfect development. Pink, white and red are the prevailing colors. BROWALLIA — B. Jamesoni is a useful plant for late Winter flowering. It is naturally alow-growing soft-wooded evergreen shrub, with a rather straggling appearance. When grown as a standard it is an extremely ornamental subject. For this purpose take strong shoots for cuttings, and grow to single stems, removing the side shoots and stopping the main shoot when the desired height has been attained. In Summer the plants may be plunged in a bed of ashes and frequently fed with liquid manure. They need full sun. B. elata will bloom all Winter in a cool conservatory. It is annual in duration. Seeds should be sown the latter part of August; a few in a 4-inch pot. Discard the weakest seed- lings, leaving three or four in a pot, and shift into 6-inch pots to bloom. BRUNFELSIA— About half a dozen species are common in cultivation. Out of this number there are at least two well worthy of attention as pot plants — B. (Franciscea) latifolia and B. eximia. The former is very free in producing flowers, and is one of the best plants to put out in the permanent bed of a warm conservatory. The plant flowers during the late Winter months from the wood made the previous Summer. On flrst expanding the flowers are light purple, changing as they grow older to pure white. Old plants sucker freely, and if severed an inch or so beneath the surface of the ground and put in the propagating bed, they will quickly form new roots and develop into specimens large enough for 5-inch pots within a year. These plants should be grown indoors all the year round. Winter is their resting period, and during that time they should be watered but sparingly. The soil should be of fibry loam, sand and lime rubble; a small quantity of leaf mould may be added. In rooting any of the kinds, take very large pieces; dust the cut part with powdered charcoal; allow it to dry, then put in a pot of dry sand and keep dry till rooted. CALADIUM— See Bulbous Plants. CACTUS— This name is applied to all the members of the family. Formerly it was the adopted generic name of a large number of plants which are now divided into several genera. Quite a number are hardy in the Middle Atlantic States, among these are Opuntia arborescens, O. Eaflnesquii,0. vulgaris, O. missouriensis, and one named O. phaeacantha. 22 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PEANIS. STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 23 Some of the gaudy-flowered greenhouse kinds, such as Cereus flagelli- formis, C. speciosissimus, and the much admired night bloomers C. graudiflorus and C. Macdonaldise, when in good condition, so far as the drainage and soil in the pot are concerned, may be plunged in a sunny 8pot out-of-doors, where they will make growth much superior to that attained in the greenhouse. If the plants are in good health wet sea- sons will do them no harm. CALATHEA— Usually known as Marantas. They are grown solely for their ornamental foliage, nearly all of the species having beautiful markings. It is doubtful if any other genus shows greater variation in this respect. Most of the kinds are stove plants, growing in shade all the year round, with a minimum temperature of 60 degrees. They need an abundance of water at all times. In Winter, when the benches are apt to get dry quickly, the pots should stand on a layer of sphagnum moss. Some of the species will succeed in a temperate house, and a few of the stove kinds may be subjectea to a lower temperature, without injury, after they have made their growth. Some of the best-known stove kinds are as follows: C. Baraquiniana, C. bella, C. fasciata, C. Kerchoviana, C. Lindeniaua, C. Makoyana, C. albo-lineata, C. rosea- picta, C. spleudida, C. zebrina, and C. Veitchiana. Those which may be grown cooler are C. tubispatha, a species which loses its leaves and goes to rest for the Winter; C. illustris, C. Leitzei, C. Massangeana, C. pulchella and C. intermedia. The last two resemble C. zebrina in the upper portions of the leaves, but the inferior margins are almobt green. None of the species should be allowed to flower, as this only weakens the plants; and seed is not necessary, as they all divide very freely. Dur- ing the growing season, if drained thoroughly, they can hardly be over- watered. Propagation— Calatheas, which are freshly divided, should not be potted in fresh soil until new roots have been formed. This condition may be brought in the following manner: Knock the plants out of the pots before growth commences; wash the soil from among the roots; prune out those not wanted, and divide into clumps, not too small, say large enough to go into a 5-inch pot, and put in the propagating bed. Let the air be close and moist, and the glass shaded. When a few fresh roots have been formed they take very quickly with the soil after potting. CALCEOLARIA— The Calceolaria, both shrubby and herbaceous, is as well known in western Europe as the Zonal Pelargonium in America. The shrubby kinds are there much used in bedding, producing very gaudy effects. They delight in a cool, moist atmosphere, and our hot Summers make short work of them. The herbaceous hybrids are raised from seeds sown about the month of August. The seeds are very small and should be sown on the surface of the soil and pressed down, cover- ing with glass until the seed leaves can be seen. At all times the plants require a cool, airy spot when in the greenhouse. From the seedling stage until the plants are likely to get hurt by frost they should be kept in a frame. Greenfly is their greatest insect enemy, and must be pre- vented from gaining a foothold on them by fumigation. Several of the 24 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. species of Calceolaria are much easier to grow than the hybrids, and some of them are very ornamental. C. scabiossefolia may be flowered a few weeks from the seedling stage by starving in small pots. It may, however, be grown 3 feet high by shifting when necessary. Seeds may be sown from August to January. The soil should be of an open nature; cow manure and leaf mould should form one-fourth of the mixture. CALLISTEMON SPECIOSUS, and one or two other species, make inter- esting flowering plants in early Spring for a cool conservatory. Young plants are gotten up from seed, but they take a longer time to flower than when raised from cuttings; neither are they so free blooming. They may be treated much in the same way as Acacias. CAMELLIA — Some old plants of these relics of the past will occasion- ally be found in old-established greenhouses. They are kept, especially the white varieties, solely for the flowers, which are used in making up designs. In private and public gardens we see them oftener, and In such places they should be more grown, as they are capable of making exceedingly attractive displays during the Winter months. The varieties are perpetuated by cuttings of the ripe growths in late Sum- mer, or by grafting before the growth starts, using stocks of strong- growing kinds, raised from cuttings. Potting is best done after the flowers fall off. Loam two parts, peat or leaf mould one part, and about one-sixth of the whole, sand, will make a good potting compost. They thrive best with limited root room. CANNAS FOR WINTER BLOOniNQ— During Winter these plants respond very readily when anything like fair treatment is given, in the production of large heads of bloom. In fact, in a warm, sunny house, many of the kinds are equally as fine as they are in Summer, and some of them last longer in bloom, owing to the conditions for the production of good flowers being more under^control. The orchid flowered Caunas, that is, those having C. flaccida blood in them, are not well suited for outdoor work, as their flowers are too soft to withstand the glare of the hot sun; but for pot plants in Winter they are useful. The plants may be started in small pots, giving larger ones as growth is made. They are gross feeders, and will take rich soil supplemented by occa- sional waterings with liquid manure. CARLUDOVICA — About six species are in common cultivation. They are usually taken for palms, so closely do they resemble some kinds in the foliage; but they are not even related. The one most commonly grown, and perhaps the most useful for the florist, is named C. palmata; in leaf somewhat resembling a Livistona. From the seedling stage they develop rapidly into specimen plants. Old plants flower freely. The seeds are small and thin, about the size of those of Mignonette. Wash carefully from the surrounding pulp and sow in a box of finely chopped sphagnum. They germinate in three weeks. Let them grow in this until large enough to put three round the edge of a 3-inch pot, from these shift into 5-inch pots. With us the plants are useful for planting outside in shaded places in Summer, and if slightly hardened off they may be used in decorating. All the kinds are stove plants. STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 25 Group of Cineearias. — ^8ee page 26 26 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. CENTRADENIA— Of this there are three species, combining handsome foliage and rather pretty flowers. C. grandifolia has the largest leaves, and is the most useful for decorative vpork. The other species are C. floribunda and C. rosea. Cuttings vrill root at any time of the year. To get good grovFth on the plants during Summer they should be started from cuttings in March. An intermediate house suits them ; they require but little shade. CENTROPOGON— C. Lucyanum is said to be a bi-generic hybrid. The parents are given as Centropogon fastuosum and Siphocampylus betu- IcEfolius. It is one of the very best stove or vearm greenhouse herba- ceous perennials. There is no great difficulty in its cultivation; but it is seldom seen in collections. The flovpers are rosy carmine, produced in midwinter. After blooming numerous small shoots will usually appear along the branches; these taken off with a heel root with bottom heat. The young plants will thrive in heat and moisture during the first two or three months; they may afterwards be grown in a frame. After the blooming season is over the old plants may be given a period of rest, and then repotted, using a light, rich material. CESTRUM CORYMBOSUn and C. NEWELLI may be used for flower- ing about Christmas, if young plants are started about the end of August, the wood to be taken from old specimens planted out. As soon as rooted put in 3-inch pots, afterward placing three together in a 6- inch pot to bloom. Keep in a sunny house, or the plants are apt to make too much foliage. CINERARIA— For coming into flower during March and April sow the seed during September. As soon as large enough the seedlings should be put in 2-inch pots, and from that time on they must not be allowed to get in a pot-bound state. The coolest house, with a maximum amount of light and air, is what they need. Soil should be light and well enriched. CONVOLVULUS — This genus possesses many weedy plants which, when once they gain a foothold in the garden, are difficult to eradicate. Several are very ornamental when in bloom. One of the best, especially for baskets, an evergreen, with short pendulous growths, is named C. mauritanicus. The flowers are blue, and about an inch across. This plant is usually increased by division, or cuttings of the ripe growths early in Spring. Seeds are also offered. CORDYLINE— The greenhouse Cordylines, such as C. australis, C. Indi- visa and its forms, are best raised from seeds which are easily procura- ble. Sow thinly, as they they will not require to be transferred during the earlier stages of growth. They are good decorative plants, from 5-inch pot plants up, having long, narrow strap-shaped drooping leaves. Small plants are useful for mixing with other subjects in vases and bas- kets, as they stand full sun. The ornamental leaved kinds, which need a higher temperature for their perfect development, are very numerous. Some of the best known are C. Baptistii, C. Cooperii, C. porphyrophylla, C. Youngii and C. termi- STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 27 nalis. Especially from the last-named species many varieties have been raised. Propagation is quickest brought about by cutting up the long stems into pieces about 3 inches in length; put in warm sand and keep moderately damp. They will throw up shoots from each eye; these should be taken off and put in the sand to form strong, fresh roots, as they are provided, when attached to the parent stem, only with very weak roots and sometimes none at all. They will root quickly, and may be potted according to their size, in 2 or 3-inch pots, and grown on quickly in a high temperature. When they reach a marketable size the hardening-off process is necessary, or they will not stand long when used for decorating. In C. neo-caledonica, C. brasiliensis and C. amabilis the thickened root stocks may be cut up into pieces along with the stems for propagation. C. cannaefolia does not succeed so well when cut up into small pieces. It is a splendid decorative plant, standing much rough usage. Moss the tops and afterward place pieces of the stems, at least a foot long, in the bench of a cool house, as they take their own time in sending up growths. The species and forms with highly colored foliage will need a minimum temperature in Winter of at least 55 degrees. The others will succeed with the thermometer 15 degrees lower. With the greenhouse kinds loam should predominate in the potting soil, but the others should get a greater quantity of leaf soil. For other kinds commonly grown see Dracaena. CROTON— The Croton or Codiaeum, as it is now called, has in the warmer parts of the country forged its way to the front as a choice bed- ding plant, and very deservedly so, as the species and varieties are a very satisfactory class of plants and much easier to handle than was generally supposed a few years ago, when they were coddled all the year round in hothouses. Several of the kinds are so easily grown that they can be got up with as little trouble and as cheaply as geraniums; but they are, of course, not the choicest varieties. Those stock plants which were planted out early in May (that is a safe period here, but, of course, later in colder latitudes) will, by the middle of August, have made good ripened wood, which should be selected for propagating early in Septem- ber. The cuttings at that period should be large and put in the bed with only a few of the lower leaves removed. Let them form quite a large bunch of roots in the propagating bed before being potted, as they are a trifle miffy to take with the soil when they have only a scanty supply of roots — enough to comfortably fill a 4-inch pot will be about right. Those plants will need shifting during the Winter, and if kept in ■ a warm, moist house, will be well furnished plants in 5 and 6-inch pots by bedding out time. The principal batch of the commoner kinds for bedding may be put in by the middle of January. The old plants which were lifted from the beds in the Fall should be pruned back severely, and all the growth available for propagating selected. A good bottom heat and a humid atmosphere are necessary to root the cuttings at this time, as the wood is not in a very ripe condition. Cuttings put in at any time should not be taken from plants which are dry at the root, as they are then apt to lose leaves in the cutting bed. Cuttings 8 or 10 inches in length root as easily as the easiest rooting soft-wooded plants if given a good bottom heat and a depth of 4 or 5 inches of sand. There 28 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. is no necessity to have a frame; the open propagating bed will answei nicely. Those plants which are intended to be planted out-of-doors should have the hardening-off process begun by the end of April; if taken directly from a hothouse the bottom leaves will fall off. Old plants which did duty during the Summer months as bedders,and which were planted out instead of being plunged in pots, should be kept well syringed after being potted and housed, as they are very liable to the attacks of thrips and red spider. When plants intended to be lifted in the Fall are put out in May, I believe it is the best plan to sink pot and all. They seem to thrive best with restricted root room so that when lifted, although a few roots may be developed on top and outside the pot, it is safer when lifted to shirt them into larger pots than to lift and pot plants which have been growing in the soil of the bed. With these it is almost certain to be the case that a considerable number of leaves will be lost. Most of the finer kinds Avill need a temperature of at least 60 degrees by night, keeping the air moist and giving water by frequent syringings. Large cuttings in the sand bed or propagating frame should be examined now and then, to guard against thrips and red spider. If these pests appear, a syringing with a weak solution of the old reliable Gishurt's Compound will prove beneficial. Ringing Crotons — This simple operation is brought into requisition when it is desired to root the top part of any particularly fine specimen. The stem of the parent plant may be destitute of leaves for a considera- ble distance above the pot, making the plant comparatively useless as a specimen and only useful as a stock plant. Ringing, if successfully per- formed, will give an almost perfect plant a foot or so high with large leaves right down to the soil— a condition we can hardly hope for from cuttings. Moreover, the rooted top sends out such a mass of working roots that the succeeding growth is not stunted, but continues making leaves every bit as large as the lowest ones — a condition much to be desired when an evenly built up plant is wanted. Plants, then, should be selected which have good, healthy tops with finely-colored, well- developed leaves, and if the bottom part near the pot has lost its leaves this is the only use it can be put to. The house in which the operation is peformed should be a warm one and shaded from the sun, so that the material used to produce roots will not dry up too quickly. Select those pieces which are dormant or have made their growth, because if plants are taken during the process of making leaves they are bound to carry some disfigurement afterward. The stem at the place to be rooted should be denuded of the leaves for two or three inches of its length, and ' with a sharp knife remove a small section of the bark; or, just as good, make an incision in the wood upward of about three-quarters of an inch in length, and in depth from one-third to one-half the diameter of the stem. Insert a little sphagnum moss to keep the incision open, then tie a small quantity around it, not too much or it will be apt to keep too wet. After being tied small enough, so that the fingers can easily close on it, stand the plant back in its place and see that the moss does not suffer for want of water, because should this happen the tender tips of the roots will be lost and the process of rooting will to a certain extent have to be begun again. STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 29 As soon as the roots show through the moss the plants should be potted, but not potted in the ordinary way. Many pots are broken trying to get plants out of them, but in this case we will have to break pots to get the plants in. Thumb pots are quite large enough for the first shift; and these must be broken into two pieces lengthwise. One- half of one pot and one-half of another will not do, as the pieces must fit closely, therefore break as many pieces as are wanted, and lay the pieces one on top of the other before beginning the operation of potting. Sup- ports must also be supplied, consisting of two sticks, one on each side, and reaching to the mossed part of the stem. On one of the sticks, just about where the middle of the pot will reach, twist a piece of wire, then clasp the moss with the two pieces of pot, twist the wire firmly around these and then on to the other stick. This will keep the pot in position until the time to sever the top from the plant. This condition will be indicated by the roots appearing through the bottoms of the pots. If the tops are not of the largest size they can be cut off and placed in a close frame for a few days before potting on; if, instead, they are large, a further application of material to the mossed part will be necessary. For this purpose 3-inch pots will have to be used, and the material should be fibrous peat, sand and loam mixed. When the roots show, the tops may be cut off. Stand the pots inside of others of the same size in the frame, until they recover to a certain extent, then pot and keep close for a while longer, gradually giving air. CURCULIQO — From the general appearance of the foliage one would suppose that these plants were members of the Palm family instead of being related to the Amaryllis. The leaves resemble those which are undivided of Cocos flexuosa. C. recurvata is the only species grown. The form with variegated leaves is one of our handsomest variegated plants. During growth they require stove temperature for their perfect development. They stand in a dwelling house fairly well. Propagation is by division. Almost any kind of soil will answer; but as the plants need large quantities of water the drainage should be perfect. CYCAS— Cycas revoluta stems are often spoiled as a result of the treatment they get in the way of potting immediately after being im- ported. Having few or no roots they should not be placed in large receptacles, as the soil when once watered takes too long a time to dry . out, and is apt to become sour, which is anything but a favorable con- dition to tempt the growth of fresh roots. Put the stems into as small pots as they will go, leaving just enough space to ram the soil tightly around them with a thin piece of wood. They will start into growth best when in a warm, moist house, and require little water until they show signs of sending up a crop of leaves. Plants of this class make their annual crop of leaves, not one after the other, as is the case with Palms, but simultaneously, and at this period they require close watch- ing, so that the foliage may be prevented from being deformed in any way from insect attacks, cold drafts, or coming in contact with other things during development. The temperature should be higher at this period than at any other. When roots are formed and a sufficient time has elapsed after the development of the fronds, the plants may be given Cyclamen Geemination. — See page 31 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 31 larger pots. A minimum temperature of 50 degrees will suffice during Winter. CYCLAMEN— Cyclamen seeds, to insure even germinating, should be sown as soon as convenient after ripening. The seeds ripen from April to June. The sowing season is from September to the beginning of December, and the seeds, between the harvesting and sowing periods, should be kept in an open-mouthed bottle, mixed with dry sand. Al- though the seed may be held for years it loses in vitality the longer it is kept. The best flowered Cyclamens are varieties of C. persicum. Several named varieties are offered by the large dealers, but when once a satis- factory strain is secured the best plan is to set aside a few plants of each color, and by artificial pollination each flower will ripen a capsule of seed. To have plants in bloom by Christmas the seedlings will consume from 12 to 14 months in completing their growth, and during that period they should never be allowed to rest by withholding water, or be subjected to other conditions unfavorable to -continuous growth. The seed should be sown in shallow pans or boxes, in light sandy soil, and covered to very little more than their own depth with finely sifted soil and sphagnum, two parts of the former to one of the latter. The swollen root-stock is formed before the first leaf makes its appearance, and when the first leaf Is fully developed the seedlings are ready for pricking off. During this process a minimum temperature of 55 degrees will be sufficient. The seedlings may be put directly into thumb pots, pricked off around the sides of 4 or 5-inch pots, or Into shallow boxes, keeping them at all times near the light, and In as uniform a state of moisture at the roots as possible. By the middle of May those lu the most advanced stages of growth should be In 4-inch pots. At this time they should get the full light from the north side of a house, the plants being placed on inverted pots, and as near the glass as possible. The glass on the south side should be shaded. For Summer quarters frames are the best. The bottom should have a few inches of ashes to retain moisture. The sash may be raised a few inches above the woodwork by running pieces of wood along top and bottom. The best shading device is probably a piece of cloth fixed to a roller, so that It may easily be stretched over the glass during the hottest part of the day, or the glass may be covered with one of the shading mixtures. Heavy rains should not strike the plants, but they will be benefited by removing the sash In the evenings, replacing them as the temperature gets too warm the following morning. Greenfly, the cyclamen's greatest insect enemy, may be removed by periodical syringings, or by scattering tobacco stems among the pots. The plants should be repotted when necessary, the very latest ones getting their last transfer about the 1st of Novem- ber, the earliest plants at least a month sooner. Well-developed speci- mens should easily fill an 8-Inch pan. The soil should consist of loam mixed with lesser quantities of old manure and leaf mould; a little sand and crushed charcoal will help to keep the mass In a porous condition. In potting, the corm, or swollen stem, may be half burled in the soil; c9,reful drainage is necessary. As soon as there is danger from frost the plants are removed indoors; and to give good stiff stal'ks to the flowers 32 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. full Ught and an abundance of air should be afforded on all favorable occasions. CYTISUS in one or two forms is mainly grown as a midspring flowering plant. Cuttings are rooted in February. The young plants may be grown on in frames. Frequent syringings are necessary to com- bat the attack of red spider. Pinch back the strong grow^ths as soon as they show a tendency to outgrow the others. Keep cool during Autumn and the early Winter months. DALECHAMPIA ROEZLIANA belongs to the same family as the Poin- settia, and, like it, grown solely on account of its bracts, which are rose colored. It is a warm house plant, but may be plunged outside in Sum- mer to make abundant growth. DESnODlun QYRANS— A plant of little beauty, but very interesting because of the movements of its lateral leaflets, which are continuous in a suitable temperature. Propagated by seeds or cuttings in a warm house. DRAC^NA— D. Godsefliana is a plant of recent introduction; the leaves are short, somewhat resembling in shape and coloring those of the old D. phrynioides. D. Godsefliana, however, has the markings lighter^ When planted out in Summer, and well supplied with water, it makes considerable growth. Every small twig may be rooted. Perhaps the best use to which it may be put is in association with small ferns in pans. Dracaena Sanderiana I am afraid will never occupy a very important place among decorative plants, because single plants do not make much of a show in 5 or 6-inch pots. On account of its variegated foliage and slender habit it can be used among ferns and mosses for jardiniere work. Pieces of the stem with two or three leaves attached root quickly with bottom heat. If wanted for filling pots above 5 inches, three or four must be potted together. D. Qoldieana is a handsome stove plant with short, broad leaves, irregularly marbled with dark green and dull white. Tops may be rooted and the canes left to sprout; or they may be cut up, sprouted and rooted, as in the case of Cordyline terminalis. D. fragrans, the most useful of the genus, grows 12 feet high, but small specimens are well furnished with leaves. The plants will stand much rough usage. D. Lindenii and D. Massangeana are variegated forms. In propagat- ing, when the stems have leaves, cut into lengths with a leaf or two to each, and root like ordinary cuttings. These make stock plants. Long leafless stems should be cut into lengths of about a foot and buried in warm sand and moss. They sprout freely ; the sprouts should be taken off and rooted afresh before potting. The plants need slight shade in Summer. All three require abundant root room and well enriched porous soil, otherwise they will show a sickly yellow hue on the leaves. STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 33 DRAdiNA Sandekiana. — See page 32 34 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. DROSERA BINATA, the finest of all the Sundews, a native of Austra- lia, growing about 1 foot in height, will succeed in a cool greenhouse. Give soil same as rec(jmmended for Nepenthes, covering with live moss. This is an exceedingly attractive plant for private greenhouses. In early Spring the leaves catch myriads of male greenfly; and the plant may be regarded as a friend of the horticulturist. DICHORIZANDRA THYRSIFLORA— Of the Tradescantia family, and usually grown as a stove plant. In this capacity, unless given abun- dant root room, the flowers are not produced in abundance. South of Philadelphia it may be used as a choice subject for the open border in Summer. The flowers, of a rich dark blue and the stamens yellow, are borne on the upright shoots of the current year's growth, which is about 2 feet in height. The flowering shoots may be cut in pieces, with a single leaf to each if necessary, and rooted in the hot propagating bed. They may be kept in a semi-dormant state during the Winter, as the plants will form thick tuber-like roots. DIEFFENBACHIAS — Some of the old plants of these ornamental aroids will, by the end of Summer, have grown lanky, bending over the pots, with only a few leaves terminating the stem. Take the tops off and put them in the sand bed; lay the stems aside in a warm, airy place to dry for three or four days, then cut them into lengths of about 2 inches. Lay these aside to dry for a similar period, first rolling them in pow- dered charcoal to lessen the danger of decay. Put in a box of nearly dry sand, cover over about an inch and stand on the floor of a warm house. When a few small leaves have been made to each sprout, pot in a mixture containing at least one-third of its bulk of chopped sphagnum moss; keep warm and moist. The tops, as soon as fairly well rooted, should be potted, not in ordinary soil, but in a mixture of chopped sphagnum, manure, leaf mould and sand. In this mixture the roots fairly revel, provided a strong moist heat is given. In potting Dieffen- bachias put them into as small pots as possible, and when a shift is necessary they may be placed three together in a pot, making a well furnished appearance in a comparatively short time. D. Baraquiniana, Jenmanii, Veitchii, Bausei and grandis are among the best. They won't stand much rough usage, being somewhat soft in the foliage; they are, Jiowever, easily got up in quantity. ECHEVERIA (COTYLEDON) GIBBIFLORA HETALLICA takes a promi- nent place among serviceable flowering plants during January and Feb- ruary. It is one which is attractive either in or out of bloom, and its cultivation is unattended by any serious difficulties. When done bloom- ing, which will be in a short time, its propagation may be gone about as follows: Takeoff the top of the main growth with as much stem attached as will enable it, when rooted, to go 2 or 3 inches into the soil; to root them, take as many 4-inch pots as there are tops, stand them on the bench, put a little moss in the bottoms, and then place a cutting in each; this will cause the cut part to callus over without the danger of rotting. In a short time the stems will give out hair-like roota, and when these are from one-half to three quarters of an inch long, the cut- tings may be potted, using soil on the dry side, and kept rather dry STOVE AND GREENHbUSE PLANTS. 35 until the plants have made roots enough to demand water. On the old stumps rosettes of leaves will form, which in time may be taken off and potted. EICHORNEA— The Water hyacinth, Eichorneacrassipes may be utilized as amost attractive tub plant in the following manner: Put, say three plants, in as many 5-inch pots of rich soil; fill a tub with water and sink the pots just under the surface. Beyond wanting water to replace that lost by evaporation they will take care of themselves; the surface will be- come a thick mass of plants, with fresh flowers opening every morning. Although this plant floats on water naturally, without the roots being fixed in soil, it also flourishes in saturated ground at a surprising rate, keeps a fresh, green appearance, and produces myriads of flowers; it is well worth a trial for unsightly marshy spots. Eichornea azurea is an interesting relative of the above, with darker colored flowers. It is useful for planting around the margins of ponds, covering quite a large water surface during a Summer's growth. Both species are easily kept over Winter by placing a few on the surface of a warm tank. They increase very rapidly during early Spring. EPIPHYLLUMS— Epiphyllums are usually grown as standards; that Is, grafted on the stems of o ther plants. This method is necessary because the branches have a procumbent habit when the plants are o n their own roots. Rooted cuttiugs may be grown to a fair size and used in baskets or other hanging receptacles. The species, three in number, and the numerous varietiesmake very handsome Winter-flowering plants. Their cultivation is simple. The stocks for grafting are usually Pereskia acule'ata and P. Bleo. The latter is the more robust grower, and there- fore most suitable for tall specimens, P. aculeata being used for dwarf ones. Cuttings of the Pereskias, which, of course, belong to the Cactus tribe, may be rooted any time after the wood is fairly ripe. They may be put in a dry and warm part of the propagating bed, and given water only after they show signs of sending out roots. To graft, select stock in which the wood is sufliciently firm; cut off the top part, make a cut down the center for three-quarters of an inch or so, then insert a piece of the ripened growth of the Epiphyllum, and run one of the Pereskia spines through the whole to keep it firmly together, or tie with raffia until the union is completed. This will be effected in a few weeks in a good growing temperature. Have the Pereskias in as small pots as possible at the time of grafting, so that when the union between stock and cion takes place the plants will start growing quickly by being shifted into larger pots. The potting mixture should be very porous, as the least stagnation is fatal to the roots. Sandy loam, broken brick, old manure and a little leaf soil will be found best. ERANTHEMUn PULCHELLUM produces one of our brightest blue flowers. It is at its best in the greenhouse during late Winter. Put in cuttings during early Spring; plant in the open border as soon as weather permits, lift and pot in the Fall. Splendid specimens may thus be secured for winter bloom. 36 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. Eeica melantheba. — See page 57 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 37 ERICAS— Several years ago the growing of these plants iu this coun- try for commercial purposes was regarded as an impossibility, even by those who were familiar with th^ir culture in Europe. But now, some of the kinds are grown here as well as anywhere, simply by studyingtheir needs, and carefully attending to their wants. Propagation of the sev- eral varieties may be effected during April before the active growth of the season gets too far advanced. Have no undesirable vegetable humus or mu'l in the sand. Secure a good-sized bucket, fill with sand and push the end of the hose to the bottom, allowing the water to run with considerable force for a few minutes. This will clean the sand of all impurities. Pans or pots for the cuttings should have perfect drain- age to within two or three inches from the surface; give about an inch of peat or leaf mould and sand at the bottom, covering with an inch or so of sand, which should be made firm. Keep close under glass while rooting at a temperature never above 60 degrees F. During the Sum- mer months keep the roots cool by plunging the plants in some porous material, never allowing them to get too wet or too dry. It may be stated here that roots of plants are divided into four classes — nutritive, attachment, contractile and storage. In the Ericas the nutritive roots are most abundant next the flower pot, so that an equable condition of moisture is necessary to their existence. Avoid manure of any description. E. persoluta, E. melanthera, E. gracilis and E. hyetnalis, are a few of the very many kinds grown. ERYTHRINAS which are planted out iu the back part of a cool frame adjoining a greenhouses, for the sake of their flowers in Summer, should get a mulching of stable litter to keep their roots snug for the Winter. In the colder parts of the country the covering should extend a foot or mure up the stems, so that there will be no dangerfrom freezing. In pruning leave as much of the stem as possible, only cutting off enough to enable the sash to slide into place. E. crista-galli and the variety E. laurifolia, together with E. Hendersoni, are the best for this purpose. Old plants which have been bedded out for the Summer will Winter all right beneath a bench, in a cold house, with some soil thrown over the roots. E. Parcelli and E. marmorata, both varieties of Indica, have variegated foliage. Propagation— By the beginning of February start some of the old plants of E. crista-galli, or any of its forms; they are far the best for Summer work. If not in pots the old stumps may simply be covered over at the roots with moss and given a minimum temperature of 55 degrees. Syringe occasionally to encourage growths for cuttings. As soon as these growths are in the neighborhood of 4 inches in length take them off with a heel, put in 2-inch pots, using a sandy mixture, and keep them confined in a warm propagating case until they root; shift into larger pots and gradually harden off. EUPATORIUn PROBUn is the name of a species of this popular Winter flowering genus which we do not see much of, and which may be grown to come in after the well-known Stevia serrata goes out of flower. The flower heads are as large as those of S. elegans. The only drawback to 38 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. its. use as a cut flower is tbe clammy or viscid nature of the stems and leaves. The plant is said to be a native of Peru; it was introduced nearly thirty years ago, but has never become popular, supposedly from its being confined to European gardens ever since. Two desirable Win- ter bloomers with dark lilac or purple flowers, are known as E. ianthi- num and E. macrophyllum. They are of little service for cutting from. Plant out in late Spring after they are done flowering. This will give good material for cuttings in September. E. macrophyllum is the stronger of the two. Cuttings grown on in a warm, sunny house will flll 5-inch pots by the first of March, and have very large panicles of flowers. EUPHORBIA (POINSETTIA) PULCHERRIMA —Poinsettias are grown not on account of the flowers, which are small and inconspicuous, tat for the highly colored bracts which surround them. The flowers are produced in midwinter. Both for cutting and as pot plants Poinsettias are highly popular. There are three kinds in cultivation — E. pulcher- rima, which is most commonly grown; E. p. plenissima, having a larger number of bracts, and E. p. alba, with creamy white bracts. The kinds are propagated in two ways, from dormant wood and from green cut- tings. In employing the former method the old plants, after the flowers have been cut, or in the case of pot plants, after the flowers have de- cayed, the stems should be allowed to ripen thoroughly, by gradually withholding water and subsequently placing them beneath the stage of a warm house; while there they should be kept free from moisture at the roots. During March the canes which can be spared should be taken off and cut into lengths of about 4 inches. After the milky sap has stopped exuding from the lower part of the cuttings, they should be washed in warm water and dipped in powdered charcoal previous to being placed in the warm propagating bed. While rooting the sand should be kept on the dry side, only giving enough water so that the roots will obtain sufficient nourishment. Instead of being allowed to make long, spindling roots in the sand they should be potted in thumb pots immediately the roots appear. Put a smaU quantity of rough screenings in the bottom of each pot, and have the soil (loam and sand in equal parts is best) in a fairly moist condition, so that a very slight sprinkling through a fine rose will suffice for the first few days. When green cuttings are preferred the plants may be started into growth after the end of April. Shake the soil from the roots and repot in rather small pots. In removing the old soil it will be found that the nutritive roots are decayed and only the storage roots remain. On coming into con- tact with moist soil these storage roots speedily send out feeding roots, followed by the expansion of the dormant buds on the canes. When the growths are a few inches long they may be taken off with a heel, potted singly and put in a close frame; or simply rooted in the sand bed and potted when roots are formed. If kept growing without a check plants from green cuttings will give the largest heads of bracts. Batches of cuttings may be put in at intervals during the Summer. When weU started in pots all the plants may be placed in a sheltered position out- of-doors, but in the full sun. When the pots in which they are to bloom get fuU of roots clear liquid manure may be given with good effect. STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 39 Plants rooted during midsummer from green cuttings may be grown on benches, mucli in tiie same way as single-stemmed Chrysanthemums are grown. Before the approach of cool weather all the plants should be removed indoors, as they will lose their leaves on being subjected to low temperatures. The wilting of the flowers of Poinsettias, or rather of the gaudy colored bracts which surround the flowers, is due to the milky sap secreted from the cut part. This hardens to a greater or less extent, and clogs up the vessels through which the water should ascend to keep the flowers and foliage fresh. A good way to circumvent this is as follows: Some little time after the stems have been cut and a goodly quantity of the milky sap has run out, cut off a small piece from the end of the stem and stand the cut ends in warm water for a few minutes. This will leave the cut part free to absorb all the water neces- sary for their support. Blooms which have been drooping for a consid- erable time may be revived in the same way. Euphorbia fulgens (better known as E. jacquinia^flora) is less easy to manage than the Poinsettia. A start should be made with soft cuttings, with a heel or piece of the old wood attached. They should be put In the open propagating bed instead of a frame, as their leaves are very liable to decay, owing to the dampness. Place in 2-inch pots and gradually shift on, keeping the plants in the full sun. Too much water at the root should be guarded against. After midsummer the plants may be plunged in an open frame to ripen their growth, and removed indoors before the weather shows signs of getting cool. EURYA LATIFOLIA VARIEGATA— Put in cuttings of this about the same time as given for Azaleas. It is a plant very useful for decorating and one which we see too little of. Give the same treatment in Summer as recommended for Araucarias. EXACUM AFFINE is the name of a compact bushy Gentian-wort, which gives a very good account of itself for Winter flowering in a mod- erately warm house. The flowers are bluish purple with yellow stamens protuding from the center of the flower. It doesn't have the provoking habit of some of the Gentians in closing its flowers during the latter part of the day. Seed sown beginning of July will make fine plants by the Fall. As soon as theseedlings are large enough they may be plunged in a frame, where they will need but little attention, as they do not suffer from an occasional drying out. FICUS ELASTICA is one of the most popular house plants, and one of the most suitable for this purpose. The leaves are large and leathery and not easily hurt through occasional neglect. Complaints are some- times made of plants losing their lower leaves; in old plants this is natural, as evergreen plants have their season of leaf shedding. Young plants will lose leaves through insufficient or too much moisture or lack of nourishment. Mossing Out-of-Doors — Between old stocks of rubbers planted outside and those kept in pots there is quite a difference in the quality of growth. Those given unlimited root room in the open lot have a somewhat suc- culent growth with the leaves far apart, and altogether not in the best 4:0 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. condition for purposes of propagation. These may merely be notched below every second leaf previous to inserting in the sand bed later on. Plants growing in pots or tubs have much firmer growth, well ripened, with the leaves quite close together; very suitable for providing tops which may be rooted in large pieces and make salable plants in a short time. To go about this operation successfully make preparations during the first half of August by tying the growths to supports. Those which answer the purpose best are pieces of wire stakes tied along the stem, then at the point where it is desired to root the pieces remove just enough of the leaves and make an incision in the stem upward toward the growing point. Insert a little sphagnum moss, wait a day or so, remove the moss; bathe with warm water to remove the congealed sap, which, if left, will hinder a complete callusing of the cut part. Insert fresh moss and tie a handful overthe incision; keep moist until the roots are showing through. The pieces should then be cut off, put in small pots and placed in a close stucture fur a few days until the roots begin to take with the soil. Syringe only during that period. This is a very important point. After potting either mossed shoots or cuttings (if the soil is in a good working condition; that is, neither too wet nor dry) absolutely no water should be given for a day or two; the atmosphere kept moist, and an occasional syringing will be all that is necessary. House=Qrown Plants — Rubber plants which are grown all Summer in a house in a moist, high temperature, have a very different appear- ance from those which are grown out-of-doors in the full sun, and the difference is by no means in favor of the house-grown stock. The leaves are naturally weaker, without the well-developed appearance of the outdoor grown plants, and if the root conditions of the outside plants are perfect, with a good mulch over the sunken pots, the growth will be every bit as rapid in young plants, if not more so, with the addition of a constitution which enables them to stand a whole Winter in a dwelling house without injury. The variegated rubbers are indoor plants, as they are apt to get scorched by the sun's rays unless given a partially shaded situation. For keeping stock plants of these varie- gated varieties it will be found a good plan to have them in rather small pots and encourage roots from the stems, especially from those of old plants. These stem roots, when they get among a mixture of manure and moss, or even among w^et gravel, make as- tonishing growth, causing the plants to give an abundant supply of material for cuttings, which they are otherwise slow to do when grown in the ordinary way. Cuttings notched for a few weeks, taken off and placed in sand with a brisk bottom heat, root quickly. Rubber plants will keep in a dormant state even in a high temperature, with abundant humidity in the atmosphere, by being kept dry at the roots. Indoor Rubbers for Stock Plants— Reserve a place at the end of a warm house for large over-grown plants. They make quicker growth indoors during the warm months than they do outside, and for the purposes of single-eye cuttings, the wood is preferable, as the spaces between the leaves are longer. They should be planted in a solid bed. If the old soil be unsuitable remove it to a depth of about 18 inches; put some broken brick, clinkers or stones in the bottom for drainage, STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 41 some old leaves on top of this, and fill up with rich porous soil. Plant moderately close together, pruning back those which require it; with a few good stock plants a plentiful supply of growth for cuttings, or for mossing, will be the result. The rubber when well grown can always be depended upon as a ready seUing plant. Cuttings root poorly sometimes, and there are several causes. Single- eye pieces are dib ble J in an open bed with the leaf pierced by a stick to keep it in an upright condition. During the process of rooting the cut- ting is nourished to a large extent by the moisture taken in by the under part of the leaf; that is, when it lies flat on the sand, which it should do. They will in this position root quicker and better. Another cause of frequent failure is in taking the cuttings at the wrong time. The plants have a period of rest and a period of growth. When a shoot is in the process of developing a leaf rooting should not be attempted; better wait till every part is ripened, then rooting is an easy matter. In potting off do not allow the roots to get beyond an inch in length while in the bed. They sustain injury easily when coming in contact with anything. In hfting from the bed place the cuttings in a box with the rooted ends resting on one side of the box, and not too many of them together. Use soil of the same temperature as the sand. Two- thirds loam and one-third sand is a good medium to start with ; 3-inch pots should be used. A ehift will be necessary within three weeks. Slow Rooting Species of Ficus, and there are several of them in common use for sub-tropical bedding in Summer, will be resting by the ead of January unless they are kept in a very warm house; and in this condition ringing and mossing, as the best means of increasing the number, had better be attended to. Those which are slow in taking root in the cutting bed, but quick to respond to the ringing process, are as follows: F. dealbata, F. Porteana, F. nymphsefolia, F. macrophylla, F. ferruginea and F, eburnea. While on the subject of Rubbers I may mention that for covering damp walls in greenhouses for ornamental effect Ficus repens has been em- ployed for a long time, but there is a species, new to me, which is a bet- ter one for the purpose, judging by what I have seen of it. It is named Ficus falcata, and is well termed, as the leaves resemble nothing so much as a short knife blade. The plant grows very fast, has very dark green foliage and sticks close to the substance against which it is placed. A good way to start young plants climbing, so that they may be easily transferred to permanent positions, is to fix the end of a piece of board Inside of a pot, allowing a space above the pot 6 inches broad and 12 mches long; then pot the young plants close against the wood. FUCHSIA— Old plants of Fuchsias should be started by the middle of December to provide wood for cuttings. The plants should be knocked out of their flowering pots, the balls reduced and given fresh soil. Place them in heat and syringe freely. The growths for cuttings will start almost immediately. Do not take growths for cuttings which have been on the plants all Winter, as the wood is bound to be a trifle hard and does not turn out the best plants; better wait till the growths are tender enough. Even young growth, with the wood on the hard side, 42 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. does not make good cuttings. These should be taken off during the period of fairly rapid growth and kept growing, or they will be apt to remain stunted and come into flower before the plant is fully developed. Fuchsias will bloora in 3 inch pots, but by keeping them in a growing state, with abundant root room, they can easily be grown, according to the variety, from 2% to 4 feet in height, before the flower buds make their appearance. If wanted to bloom in 5-inch pots, pinch back the leading shoots, and when the pot is well filled with roots give weak liquid manui-e frequently. This will prolong their blooming sea- son. A single supporting stick for the main stem will be all that is necessary, with perhaps a few supporting strings for the lateral shoots in the case of those varieties having large double flowers. The soil should be well enriched with manure. FURCR/^A — A genus of plants closely allied to the Agaves. They thrive with a little more heat than is usually given Century Plants, otherwise their cultivation is pretty neai-ly the same. There are about ten species in cultivation; those most commonly seen are F. cubensis, F. gigantea and F. longaeva. The varigated form of F. gigantea is an exceedingly handsome subject. GARDENIAS — These are only grown nowadays in general collections of plants. In Summer young plants will make good growth by being plunged among some porous material in a frame. Cuttings are taken from ripe growths. Plants will thrive in a warm, sunny greenhouse. GLOXINIAS— So easily do the leaves of the Gloxinia produce tubers, when properly manipulated, tbat it seems a roundabout way to get up a supply of plants from seeds. The only drawback to the first-named method, is that leaves are not always available in sufficient quantities for propagating purposes. When plants are wanted in bloom before midsummer, the seed should be sown in early Spring. The process of raising seedlings is simple enough, if given the necessary attention ; a little neglect, however, when in the younger stages of their growth, is very apt to occur, and that is the end of them. The seedlings are very fragile for some time after germinating, and if the soil gets a trifle too wet, or too dry, they suffer beyond repair. In preparing boxes or pans for seed, let the soil be very porous and light, leaf mould largely predomi- nating. Make very firm; give a watering, then sow; and it a covering be given it should be of the lightest possible nature. If the atmosphere gets at all dry, cover the receptacles with panes of glass, to prevent dry- ing. If care be taken the seedlings may be allowed to grow until large enough to be potted off singly iu 2-inch pots, or they may be pricked off thickly into boxes previous to potting off. For flowering late in Sum- mer or early in Fall, sowings may be made as late as the beginning of July. In propagating from the leaves, various methods are employed. The one most commonly in use is to take the entire leaf, make incisions in the under parts of the principal veins (or they may be cut through) ; lay the leaves flat on the sand with the stalk buried, and give only enough water to prevent drying up. Small tubers will form at the inci- sions and at the end of the stalk. During this process no leaves are formed, and the tubers should be harvested and rested for the Winter in STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 43 dry sand. This operation is best performed after midsummer. Another good metliod to get up stock of extra fine varieties from leaves, is to cut them in sections resembliug the letter V, the lower part to consist of at least an inch of the midrib, and the leaf cut obliquely to the margin. Treat them similarly to the triangular-shaped cuttings of the Rex Bego- nias, so far as potting them in the sand goes; but keep on the dry side while forming tubers. Smaller tubers are made by this method than if the leaves were laid flat on the sand; consequently it should only be used when it is desired to make the most of extra good kinds. Old tubers are successfully wintered over in the pots in which they have flowered; or, to save room, they may be taken from the pots, the soil removed, and stored in boxes of dry sand, keeping in a minimum temper- ature of 60 degrees. In starting, bring to the light and give water, pot- ting up when about an inch of growth has been made. Diseases^The plants are liable to the attacks of a disease concerning which little appears to be known. It first shows itself in the leaves, small brownish spots appearing, as if thefoliage had been burned by the sun. The diseased surfaces gradually enlarge until the health of the plant suffers to such an extent as to stop the growth of the flower buds. Probably careless watering at the roots has something to do with the trouble. Each plant should be examined at least once a day, because the broad leaves lying over the surface of the soil are apt to hide a very dry ball; and if the plants go without water for any length of time when dry their usefulness is ended. Soil— The Gloxinia is fond of leaf soil, and it may be used to the extent of one-half the bulk, loam, sand and cow manuremaking up the balance. They are not deep-rooting plants. Large seed pans should be provided for the full-sized tubers. In saving seeds the capsules should be carefully watched else the set-ds will be lost. Up to the time of bursting the seed vessels are green; they split down the middle, suddenly exposing the seeds, which are easily displaced. GREVILLEA ROBUSTA— This would be a popular plant were it not that its general appearance is suggestive of the rag- weed. It is a first- class house plant, and one very easy to get up. Seeds are sown in March. Pot Singly when quite small, and when in 3-inch pots plunge in a frame until large enough for 5-inch pots. The plants will stand the full sun. A cool greenhouse will suit them in Winter. HAflELIA PATENS — A tender shrub very well suited for growing in tubs. When the plants are in good health they are covered with flowers during the greater part of Summer. Propagated from ripe wood in early Spring. HEDYCHIun — These have long been grown in conservatories, where plenty of room is at command. In small conservatories they are not desirable. H. coronarium has pure white, sweet-smelling flowers. H. Gardnerianum and its hybrid form are useful for planting near the mar- gins of ponds, where their roots get an abundant water supply. They may be rested under a bench during Winter. 44 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. Htdbangea hoetensis. — See page Jt5 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 45 HEERIA ROSEA and H. ALBA are easily managed greenhouse plants. They may be depended upon to give a liberal supply of bloom in Win- ter and Spring if they get anything like fair treatment. They are propa- gated by cuttings taken from soft wood in the Fall. HIBISCUS— The yarieties of H. rosa-sinensis make first-class tub plants. When thus cultivated they need liberal feeding, being robust growers; and as the flowers are produced on the young wood there has to bean abundant supply of this to have them looking at their best. With the help of liquid manure bushes will thrive in the same tubs for years. Autumn-struck cuttings, if grown on during Winter, will give 6- inch pot plants by Spring. The varieties known as H. brilliantissimum and H. grandiflorus are the best singles among the crimson varieties. There are double reds, yellows and pinks; among the latter is "Peach Blossom." It has exceedingly attractive flowers; the name describes the color of the flower well. Tlie plant blooms in a small state. All of the kinds delight in a soil having a fair proportion of leaf mould. A quantity of crushed bone may be added when the plants have to occupy the pots or tabs for any leagth of time. The varieties of H. rosa-sinensis should be given a trial out-of-doors; they grow and flower very luxuriantly. They may be kept during Winter in a struc- ture from which frost is excluded. In a low temperature, and kept dry at the roots, they are deciduous. HYDRANGEAS .FOR POTS— Hydrangea hortensis and its varieties may be propagated either in Spring or Fall. When the work is done in Spring the cuttings must be taken from plants which are being forced in the greenhouse, the wood of which is in excellent trim for the produc- tion of strong, healthy roots. Those shoots which show no signs of blooming are the ones to be taken for propagation. The cuttings root very readily if given a syringing overhead two or three times daily. Pot in 3-inch pots and plant out from these about the middle of May. Or the plants may be potted into 5-inch pots and plunged in well-rotted stable manure. They are, however, easier looked after in the field, and thei'e make plants every bit as good. Moreover, when lifted and potted they can be given fresh soil, which will suit them when taken in to force in the beginning of the year; whereas those in pots may not require shifting, so far as their size is concerned, and yet be benefited by fresh soil. Where Hydrangeas will stand the Winter some of each kind should be planted out permanently, so as to give an abundant supply of mate- rial for cuttings. These cuttingB should be taken during the Autumn months, encouraged to fill their pots with roots, and then go to rest. When given a shift from 3-inch into 5-inch pots, and brought gradually into warmth, they develop very large heads of bloom, and toward the latter part of their development liquid manure is necessary. Forcing — To have the forms of Hydrangea hortensis in bloom early those plants which have been kept cool will by the middle of January have lost their foliage, but if any remain cut it off to within a short dis- tance of the stem. The plants, whether in 4, 5, or 6-inch pots, which show that an increased size may be given, will stand the operation bet- ter if the roots are disturbed as little as possible. The same size, or ^li STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. those larger, which cannot be shifted and the ball preserved intact, are best reduced when the soil is somewhat dry. Put in a cool house after potting, watering only to settle the soil; and syringe in order to start into growth. After a start has been made the heat and watering may be increased, and as the growth increases, weak manure water may be given frequently. iriANTOPHYLLUM — An indispensable plant for private collections; grows best in a cool greenhouse. Large plants need shifting only at long intervals, and for this reason the soil should have a good sprink- ling of crushed bone and charcoal. Increased by division. I. miniatum and its forms are the finest. INQA PULCHERRIMA — For flowering in a cool greenhouse during March and April, but only in roomy structures, there are few things to surpass this in the brilliancy of the flowers. These are arranged in heads with an enormous number of stamens, which are the principal attrac- tion. Take cuttings in February. IXORAS— This is hardly a genus for the florist to deal with, as the plants take more care than the prices obtained for them would permit. There are numerous species and varieties, all of which are attractive when well done. In the latitude of Washington, D. C, they make growth best when plunged outside, and some of them flower profusely out-of-doors. I. Colei is a good white; I. Williamsii, I. coccinea, I. Chel- sonii and I. picturata are all very reliable species. They will thrive in the warmest house during Winter. Peat, sand, and a little loam will make a suitable soil. Cuttings should be put in during March. JASMINUM QRANDIFLORUM— Although there are other meritorious species, this is the one usually grown. Plant out the young stock in May, and by the end of September they should be lifted and potted. Keep in an intermediate house. The plants will stand full sunshine. JUSTICIA (SCHAUERIA) CALYTRICHA— One of the best Winter flower- ing species, producing yellow flowers in large heads. Cut back after blooming to encourage growth for propagation. Keep the young plants in the greenhouse during Summer, as they are not of a robust, growing nature. J. (Jacobinia) carnea and J. rosea — Cuttings of these should be put in at the end of January ; they root in a few days. The young plants should then be grown on and used for Summer flowering in the green- house. Almost any porous soil will suit them. LIBONIA PENRHOSIENSIS is a charming Winter flowering, dwarf evergreen shrub. Its culture is of the easiest description, and almost any soil will suit the plant. Put cuttings in the warm propagating bed during the latter part of February; plant out middle of May to make growth; lift middle of September and flower in a moderately warm greenhouse. LOPEZIA RACEflOSA (Mosquito Plant) makes an exceedingly weedy growth outside in Summer. Cuttings put in the beginning of Septem- STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 47 ber, and the plants kept in a sunny greenhouse with a minimum tem- perature of 45 degrees, will give an amazing supply of bloom all Winter. This plant is desirable only for private colllections. MAHERNIA QLABRATA— A dense-growing, dwarf evergreen shrub, with small yellow flowers produced in Winter. The flowers have an odor much resembling that of the violet. The cuttings should be made large, at least 6 inches in length. They should be taken before growth begins. The roots are sparingly produced. Put the moted cut- tings at the sides of the pots, so that they will take easily with the soil. MALVAVISCUS MOLLIS and M. ARBOREUS are greenhouse plants which in Winter take up too much room as specimens, and should not be grown for that purpose, as the flowers are not freely produced. For outdoor planting they are good subjects, making a large mass of foliage dotted here and there with bright red flowers. The new M. lanceolatus from Mexico is the best for Winter flowering. The leaves are different in shape from those of the two first-named species, and it blooms more freely. Cuttings of all three root with the treatment given Coleus. MARANTA— Of this genus M. smaragdina and M. Porteana are the best. When well grown they are among the most ornamental foliaged plants in cultivation. For culture see Calathea. riEDINILLA — This magnificent flowering plant must have a high tem- perature, and should be in every collection of stove plants. The flowers are arranged in large, drooping racemes. Cuttings root well when placed in a pot of loose moss, in a warm frame, or on a well-shaded bench of a warm house. M. magnifica is the species most commonly seen. riETROSIDEROS ROBUSTA and T\. SEMPERFLORENS are flowered from imported plants. The treatment given for Acacias will suit them. MONSTERA DELICIOSA— There are several excellent house plants whicli are very little known, on account of the difficulty experienced in propagating them in sufficient quantities. Among the best of this class is the Monstera, a subject almost unique in the vegetable kingdom, owing to the broad leaves having perforations all over their surfaces. It needs little pot room, but plenty of water; in fact, the pot may be placed in a saucer of water. It will continue to throw up leaf after leaf in a dwelling house just as well as if in a conservatory, the bright emer- ald green of the young leaves contrasting well with the deeper color of the older ones. The easiest method of propagation is to cut up the old stems to single eyes, and place in sand, in a warm house, where the cut- tings sprout in a few weeks. MUSA COCCINEA is sometimes grown for its brilliant red bracts. It is a dwarf species and needs stove temperature. For other species see Bedding Plants. nuSS^NDA FRONDOSAand H. LUTEOLA are handsome warm green- house plants, cultivated for their colored bract-like growths. 48 STOVE AND GREENHOUSE PLANTS. NEPENTHES— These are known as East India Pitcher plants. In their native habitats they grow as vines. Under cultivation they are usually seen as dwarf, pot or basket plants. Nepenthes are very suita- ble for suspending from the roof of a greenhouse, as then the curiously- shaped appendages, or " pitchers," attheendsof the leaves are best seen. Moreover, some of the kinds have long leaves, and when the pitchers are half filled with liquid they hang lower than the base of the pot or bas- ket. In this case the plants must be suspended from the roof. Their cultivation, with the exception of a few species, is not difficult. There are between 30 and 40 ppecies, found principally in the East Indian Islands. The temperature should not fall below 65 degrees at any time of the year, and from this it may rise to 90 degrees with safety. At all times I prefer growing these plants with as little ventilation as possible, as under those conditions growth will be more vigorous and a heavier crop of pitchers will be the result. Pruning is a very important matter in their cultivation. With the possible exception of N. bicalcarata, none of the kinds should be allowed to grow over a foot high. When a few pitchers have been formed, or are forming on a shoot, cut the end out; this will very materially help in the development of those in process of formation, and will cause new shoots to burst out on which more pitchers will be borne. The material in which to grow Nepenthes should consist of fibrous peat and sphagnum in equal parts. Charcoal, crushed bone and sand in small quantities may be added. During the growing season the plants must never be allowed to get dry at the roots. One and two-year-old specimens are the most satisfactory, although some of the kinds will keep in good condition as long as they have good material in which to make fresh roots. Shade during bright sunshine, and syringe frequently. The sexes are on different plants, and so far as I have observed all the species and varieties will intercross. Seeds are sown on a finely prepared surface of chopped moss, covered with glass. As soon as they can be handled the seedlings are pricked off In small pots. Cuttings should be taken from the half-ripened shoots about the beginning