Class Book COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT W^y^^o^ >^^-o-^: :>H-o^: ?>K)^ :>^kkC?^ A WEEK IN NEW YORK By Ernest IngersolL eR;?j;?RS»KS)s;3SS?;3!!iKS>S3iji35!^^ 4-Trfjtsgi;v,§5SKi2) 3 I C2!!«3iSx 2!i<£Si^^ 'jSnSS RAND.MCNALLY8:C0S ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO THE AMERICAN METROPOLIS. ^*7 M )f^X'^*^^?*^] i«t»O^X*H-C>^} >>H!>tt'' l-j^iO^] '•»>:<>-ft«i I'^tN ►J THROUGH CARS VIA Wabash R ailroad FROM New York ^^ Boston TO Chicago ^ St. Louis WITHOUT CHANCE. Leave New York, Grand Central Depot, G.OO i).in., and Boston at. 3.00 p.m., pa^sint^ NIMGMRK I=ML-L-.S Nest niornini; at 7.15, where a stop of ten minutes is made in order to give tlie passengers a good oiiportunity to view THE Greatest Cataract in the World. Solid Vestibuled Trains FROM T(3LED0, DETROIT, or CHICAGO TO St. Louis, Kansas City, St. Joseph, S Council Bluffs. Transfer made in Union Depot, St. Louis, for all Points West and Southwest. Pullman Buffet Sleeping Cars, St. Louis to Salt Lake City, via Kansas City and Denver, without cliange. Best Equipped Railroad in the West. SHORT MILEAGE. QUICKTIME. The Famous Wabash Dining' Cars on all Through Trains. Meals Served on American Plan at Uniform Pi'ice of 75 Cents Each. For ratos, time fables, maps, and all desired information, call on or write H. B. McCLELLAN, F. CHANDLER, (ieneral Eastern Agent, Gen'l Pass'r and Ticket Agent, 40'.) Broadway, NEW YORK. ST. LOUIS, MO. Up-town Store of Lord & Taylor, cor. Broadway and 20th Street. The Oldest Retail Dry Goods Firm in New York. OUR SIGNS ENLIGHTEN THE ENTIRE MORLD. Successful Advertising ALWAYS INCLUDES Si<5QS paipted 09 U/all8,= EBarps, apd pepees. ALL SUCCESSES have signs in every city and town in the United States, and WE have done the work. We will give you an estimate of cost, ans'wer any question, or call on you personally. The R. J. Gunning Co., Advertising Sign Contractors, as? Dearborn street, Chi ICT^GO. SIGNS PAINTED ANYWHERE ON EARTH. MAPS AND GUIDKS TO ALL OF THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND Every Country in the World Globes, Map Racks, Spring Map Rollers, (Jerman Maps, Wall and Pocket Maps, Historical Maps, Classical, Biblical, Historical, Anatomical, Astro- nomical, Pliysical and General Atlases of all kinds kept in stock. Address BMD, McIALLY & CO., Map PnMisliers ana Engravers, 16!3 to 172 Adams Street. CHICAOO, "THE LHTEST" BOON TO MKNKIND. An Electric Exercising Machine. Curing Neuralgia. (Sponge Attachment.) Treating Rheumatism. It IS one of the most compact and complete exercising machines ever puut. It IS made in polished cherry, oak, mahogany, ash, or antique, and all th^ parts are nickel plated. It is cheap, ornamental, and dm-able. It will Mtord mstantaneous relief to all persons affected with Nervous Headache Hlieumatism, Lumbago, Neuralgia, Varicose Veins, Catan-hal Headache, i'ain in the Joints, Pen Paralysis, Telegraphers' Cramp, and has beneficial and curative effects upon all bodily aches which are the result of exposure or nervous exhaustion. • NEW YORK: Rooms 353, 255. 257 Stewart Bldg., 280 BROADWAY. CHICAGO: 79 Adams Express Buildine, DEARBORN STREET. The Royal Blue Line BETWEEN New York and Washington IS OPERATED BY THE Jersey G6iitr[iUBaili.^B.&0.l|.ns VIA PHILADELPHIA AND BALTIMORE. The entire equipment is brand new and consists of the finest Baggage Cars, Coaches, Parlor and Sleeping Cars ever built by the Pullman Company. THE TRAINS ARE VESTIBTJLED FROM END TO END, AND PROTECTED BY PULLMANS IMPROVED HNTI-TELESCOPING DEiZICE. ALL, THE CARS IN ALL THE TRAINS ARE Heated by Steam and Lighted by Pintsch Gas UNDER DEVICES CONTROLLED BY THE SAFETY CAR HEATING AND LIGHTING CO. OF NE"W" YORK. NO EXTRA FARE. Passengers occupying Parlor Car seats or Sleeping Car berths -will' pay the ordinary charges for same. This is the only line running trains from New York in 5 HOURS TO WASHINGTON. Ticket Offices: 71, 172, 261, 415, 944, 1140, and 1323 Broadway, 737 6th Avenue, 264 West 125th Street, and 132 East 125th Street. Brooklyn: 4 Court Street, 860 '^'ulton Street, and 98 Broadw^ay. Station, foot Liberty Street, N. R. Y6C0. 1891 Copyright, 1891, ky Rand, McNally & Co. tW INTRODUCTION. In view of the fact that it has been necessary to mention in the following pages the names of many men and places of business — stores, theatres, hotels, restaurants, transportation companies, etc. — coupled with the fact that "guide-books," unfortu- nately so called, are often prepared primarily in the interest of certain advertising patrons, and hence are both partial and untrustworthy, the makers of the present book feel called upon to say distinctly, that in no single case has any remuneration, direct or indirect, influenced them in anything herein written or omitted to be written. The writer was left quite free to shape the matter as suited his judgment, regardless of "what the left-hand [the publisher] was doing," and the only persons, from A to Izzard, who even knew that they or their establishments were to be men- tioned, were some theatre-managers and a few hotel-keepers, from whom certain information was asked. The first-named forgot to send any free tickets, and the hotel men never gave a single invitation to dinner! Advertisements appear as such in this book, in suitable form; but there is not a paid-for commendation, nor a disguised advertisement, from cover to cover. RAID, McHALLY & CO. Printers, Publishers, ENGRA VERS, ELECTROTVPERS , LITHOGRAPHERS, CHICAGO AND NEW YORK. GQaps and Guides TO ALL THE PRINCIPAL CITIES AND • Every Country in the World. MAP PUBLISHING AND ENGRAVING A SPECIALTY. CONTENTS. 1— General Facts as to New York City, Page 9 2 — The Arrival in New York, "30 3— Getting About the City, - - - - - - " 51 4 — Theatres, the Opera, and other Amusements, - - - - " 73 5 — Racing and Athletic Sports, "88 6 — Suggestions as to Shopping, - - " 100 7 — The City's Parks and Squares, " 105 8 — The Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the Egyptian Obelisk, - " 120 9— A Tour of the City, " I47 ID — The Rivers and Harbor, - - - " i79 II— A Ramble at Night, "201 12 — Sunday and Religious Work in New York, - - - - " 218 13 — Educational Institutions, - - • - - - - - " 243 14 — Art and Architecture, ..." 255 15 — Clubs and Societies, -------- " 260 16— Military Affairs, - - - " 269 17 — Hospitals, Dispensaries, and Nurses, • . . - " 275 18— Metropolitan Benevolence, • - - - - - ■ " 278 19— The Markets of the City, "285 20— Brooklyn, - - . "289 21 — Seaside Resorts, ----- . - . " 298 THE SAFEST, CHEAPEST AND MOST Convertible Currency Is what every traveler desires to provide him or herself with, whether visiting' Europe, the West Indies, Bermuda, Mexico, California, or any- other part of the World. THIS COMPORT IS ALONE FOUND IN USING Cheque Bank Cheques, WHICH ARE AVAILABLE AS READY CASH at upwards of 1 ,000 of the principal hotels in Europe, and at 3,000 Banking Houses in all parts of the world. They can be cashed on board the principal steamers that leave the port of New York for Europe, as well as on the Cuba Mail Steamers to Havana, and Atlas Line Steamers, West Indies and Central America. The Cheques are only good when signed by the owner, whose name is registered at the date of purchase, and who is provided with a special letter of identification. UNUSED CHEQUES CAN BE CASHED ON RETURN AT THE CURRENT RATE OF THE DAY. These Cheques can be purchased at National Banks in nearly all the principal cities in the United States and Canada, or from the general agents, E. J. Mathews & Co., ' 2 Wall St., new YORK. LIST OF FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. The City Hall and Printing House Square, The Grand Central Depot, .... The Grand Union Hotel, The Harlem Bridges, The Madison Square Garden, . . - . Base Ball Grounds, 155th Street and 8th Avenue, The A. T. Stewart Retail Store, In Central Park, The East Drive— Central Park, Junction of Broadway and 5th Avenue, The Produce Exchange, The New York Cotton Exchange, - . - Junction of Broadway and Park Row, Union Square, A Sound Steamer, ...... A Yacht Race, ...... Fifth Avenue, Looking North from 51st Street, The Brooklyn Bridge, - . - . - Manhattan Beach, 0pp. Page 16 34 38 66 82 96 104 108 114 148 150 155 164 168 187 188 224 288 302 St Denis Hotel COR. BROADWAY AND ELEVENTH ST., NEW YORK. OPPOSITE GRACE CHURCH. European Plan. Rooms $1.00 and Upward Per Day. ^^URING the past year the St. Denis has been en- WJ larged by a new and handsome addition, which about doubles its capacity. All the latest improve- ments have been placed in the new building, with a large and very attractive new dining-room, connecting with the old, well-known ''Taylor's Restaurant." William Tatlob. HOTEL HUNGARIA ■zi WNION SQ\JKRE, Between 14th and 15th Streets (East), NEW YORK. TT^HE Restaurant and Cafe of this Hotel have been well known |<^ to the public the last fifteen years for serving the best Table d'Hote Dinner in New York City, and furnishing the finest, purest Hungarian, Rhine, and French "Wines at mod- erate prices. It is the rendezvous of eminent artists, authors, actors, and the traveling Europeans. Table d'Hote f)ii\i\ei* fi'oin ^ to §, ^^ C^ei\t^. MEALS A LA CARTE. Neumuller (Sc Schaefer, Proprietors. GENERAL FACTS AS TO NEW YORK CITY. I HE principal part of the City of New York stands upon Manhattan Island, which is surrounded by the Hudson (or North) River, on the west ; by the I- outlet of Long Island Sound or East River, on the east; and by Harlem River on the north. The island, con- secpiently, is long and narrow, measuring, in a somewhat \^g_ north-northeast line, 13)^ miles from its southernmost point at the Battery to its northernmost extension at King's Bridge ; and ranging from 2}^ miles wide at 14th st. to considerably less opposite Central Park, and finally narrowing almost to a point north of 150th st. An immense territory north of the Harlem has been annexed, however, so that now the city extends along the Sound to Bronx River on the east, and to Yonkers on the north. The total length of the metropolis, north and south, is 16 miles, and the total present area is over 41 square miles, including several islands in the East River and in the Harbor. Manhattan Island is a mass of rock of very ancient age — generally regarded as Archaean — which forms a part of the primeval shore of the continent, and is con- tinued southward as far as the Blue Ridge reaches, and northward to and beyond upper New P3ngland. The substance is chiefly mica-schists and gneisses, meta- morphosed, twisted and upset into the greatest confusion. It abounds in interest- ing minerals in great variety, and is extremely hard to dig out ; yet enormous masses have been cut down and used to fill depressions, or carted away in order to reduce to the level of street-grade the once very irregular surface of all the central part of the island, an exemplary remnant of which appears in the diversity of Central Park. 10 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. The marks of glacial action are everywhere apparent,- and the gravel drift and sands of the Ice Age overlie the rock in many places. " Every outcrop of gneiss," remarks Dr. D. S. Martin, "is a 7-oche vwittouiee, smoothed, rounded, grooved, and scored by the passage of the great ice-sheet. Beautiful examples of these phenomena are to be found in Central Park, as also of stranded erratic bowlders, often of large size. A few miles south of the city runs the 'great terminal mofaine,' which has been traced across the country from the ocean to Minnesota. It covers Long Island with a deep mantle of bowlder-drift, and forms the elevated ridge on which the reservoirs, cemeteries and Prospect Park are located. It crosses New York Bay at the Narrows, forming the green hills on either side, on which the forts stand, and then passes westward across Staten Island." Toward the southern extremity of the island the foundation of the buildings rests in these superficial deposits, and, in the case of some of the very tallest, upon piling and concrete driven into ancient beach sands. The laying of the foundations of these enormous structures is a most interesting process to observe. To the harbor and the rivers surrounding the island a special chapter is given hereafter. History, Population and Statistics. A very brief summary of the History and growth of the city is all that can be given. It was in 1609 that Hendrik Hudson sailed into the bay and ascended the river which perpetuates his memory. He learned enough about the island, which three centuries later became the home of a million and a half people, to ascertain the name of the aborigines who dwelt upon it — the Manhattans (if we discard ancient exactness in spelling), and to induce the merchants of Amsterdam to send out trading vessels the very next year. These and other ventures were so profit- able, that in 1614 a chartered trading company built, among other forts, one on the southern extremity of Manhattan Island. In 1623 a new corporation and colony was substituted, and in 1626 this island and much other territory was bought from the Indians. The fort, which was the first permanent structure on the island, was a small redoubt of earth, replaced in 1633 by a fortification 250 by 300 ft. square, with palisades and stone corners. It stood on the blocks now enclosed by Bowl- ing Green, Whitehall, Bridge and State sts., and its guns commanded the landing. The settlement gradually enlarged along the East River bank, and the present Stone st. is a part of the first road laid out, and was the first road paved with stone. Twenty years later the growth of the town had been such that when a palisade was thought necessary against Indian incursions, it had to be placed as far away as the present Wall st. in ordfer to include all the houses ; but it was not until 50 years afterward that streets began to be laid off north of that point. In 1664 the Dutch possession, then under the control of the eminent Stuyvesant, passed into the hands of the English navy, and was at once granted GENERAL FACTS AS TO NEW YORK CITY. by King Charles T. to his brother, the Duke of York, who naturally changed the name of the colony from New An-ksterdam to New York, called the Heere Strat Broadway, and otherwise reorganized and vivified the c|uiet little trading colony after the energetic English fashion. The colony took part in the war against the French, both by sea and by land, but its history was unmarked by any great cir- cumstance until the oppressions of the British government culminated in the " Stamp act" which drove New York to unite with the other colonies in the War for Independence. The money and patriotism of New York, and its central position, not only gave it a leading place in both the councils and the army of the colonies, but made it an object of special attack by the British. In September, 1776, Washington was defeated on the hills of Long Island, and the city and port fell into the hands of the enemy, who held them until the end ; and the anniversary of the evacuation, Nov. 25, 1783, is still celebrated as a local holiday. The reoccupied city then became the capital of the State and of the Nation. Here the first Federal Congress met, and here Washington was inaugurated first president in 1789. (The local newspapers and illustrated magazines for May, 1889, a propos of the centennial of that ceremony, contain a mass of agreeable informa- tion and pictures in regard to the city of that day). Prosperity came with peace, and at the opening of the present century the city contained over 60,000 population. The expenses of the war of 1812 were liberally contributed to by the citizens, especially in the equipment of the navy and privateersmen, and many of the present har- bor defenses date from that time. This war, also, was a source of prosperity, and after its close New York began that career of commercial growth which has swiftly led to its preeminence. The first steamboats in successful operation anywhere were launched here in 1807. Public improvements began vigorously after the war of 18 12, and gas was introduced in 1825. That year, too, saw the completion of the Erie Canal, which was the greatest help New York ever had in its rivalry with other ports, and has been of inestimable advantage. In 1832 cholera carried off 4,360 persons ; in 1835 a conflagration swept away property worth $20,000,000 ; and in 1837 the long remembered financial panic ruined almost everyone who had survived the earlier calamities. Nevertheless the town grew steadily, and when the Civil war broke out in 1861, it could spare many thousands of men and untold treasure to sustain the Union. The most important historical incidents since the restoration of peace are the career of the ■-rj OLD FEDERAL HALL. 12 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. " Tweed Ring," broken about 1S70, and the granting to the city of the " charter of 1S73," wiiich is the present organic law of the municipality. Population. — At the beginning of the century the population of the city, which then extended north about 2 miles from the Battery, was 60,000; in 1830 it was 202,000; in 1850, 515,000; in i860, 805,000; and in 1880, 1,206,500. The official figures of the census of i8go are not yet available, but a semi-official estimate is, in round numbers, 1,513,000. Even this gives but an inadequate idea of the im- portance of the city, as almost as many persons live outside of the city limits, within a radius of 20 miles from the City Hall, as live within them, so that if the popula- tion of what may be called the metropolitan district were to be given on the principle on which that of London is given, it would closely approach 3,000,000. Statistics of Trade, etc. — The valuation of property within the city and county of New York had reached the enormous figure of nearly $1,600,000,000, in 1888, the latest for which official statements are at hand ; of this four-fifths is of real property. The total debt of the city is now about $90,000,000, while the resources of her banks alone amount to $150,000,000. The total imports at this port during 1888 amounted to $464,080,323; and the exports to $349,456,582, — total $813,536,- 905. This is over 55 per cent, of the imports and exports of the whole country; and this port yields 66 per cent, of all the revenue from foreign custom-duties. Books of Reference. — The most popular history of New York City, is that of Mis. Martha J. Lamb, editor of the Magazine of Amerkaji History. It is very full. A somewhat smaller volume, but excellent, is that by the late Miss Mary L. IJooth, former editor of Ha7-per''s Bazar. The historian, Lossing, has also prepared a popular history, in two illustrated volumes, which may be seen at every library. Older and more anecdotal are the histories of Valentine and Brodhead. Grant Thorburn's " Old New York," Barrett's " Old Merchants of New York," De Voe's "Market-Assistant" (really a history), the "Tracts of Trinity Parish," and other special books, may be consulted for the records and traditions of limited ]3arts of the city or particular features of its career. Costello's "Police Department," and Kernan's "Fire Department " are large and useful books on their subjects. The leading Directory of the city is published by Trow, and may be consulted with confidence in its accuracy. It will be found open to public examination at most apothecaries' shops. The introductory pages contain lists of churches and a variety of useful information, well classified. In addition to this there are several professional, business and " elite " directories, the last containing the names of resi- dents of the fashionable quarter of New York, arranged by streets and numbers. The "Medical Register" (G. P. Putnam's Sons), is an example of the professional lists which include lawyers, ministers, etc., etc. For railway time-tables, there are sev- eral Railway Guides, published monthly, which will be found useful. Many of the railroad companies (notably the West Shore, Central of New Jersey, and Long GENERAL FACTS AS TO NEW YORK CITY. 13 Island RRs.), issue illustrated guide-books of their lines and suburban resorts Rand, McNally & Co. (323 Broadway),' the Appletons, the Taintor Brothers and Brentano also issue a long list of guide-books, picture albums and maps to the city, Hudson valley, sea-coast pleasure-places, and so on. For political and commercial statistics for the current year see the Trilm)ie and World Almanacs, the annual report of the Chamber of Commerce, and other annual publications to be bought at the larger newstands and book stores. Streets and Local Districts. The first settlement of the town, as has been shown, was at its southern extrem- ity, and there the streets will be found to be narrow and crossing one another at irregular angles, so that it is easy to lose one's way. Much land has been reclaimed from the rivers, especially on the eastern side, and it is only a few years since the large open spaces of Old, Coenties and other " slips," were docks, in which vessels might lie two or three blocks back from their present wharves. With the gradual amplification of the city, and under the foresight of its citizens, a regular system for new streets up town was instituted in 1811, but not completely surveyed- out until 1842. This begins at Houston st. on the east side, and at Washington sq. and Greenwich av. on the west side. Broadway, however, has maintained with little change its course as the ancient road to Bloomingdale. Properly speaking, it ends at the S. W. corner of Central Park, continuing beyond that as the Boule- vard, which makes its way over to the high ground overlooking Riverside Park and the Hudson (see Parks), and then goes on to the extremity of the island. The ancient highway to the settlements along the bank of the Hudson and to Al- bany, is partly preserved (above Central Park) in St. Nicholas av. and the King's Bridge Road, which keep along the high central ridge of the island. Above Houston st. and Washington sq., one to i^ miles from the Battery, begins the rectangular arrangement and numbering of streets so characteristic of New York. Running north and south along the whole length of the island are a series of avenues, an eighth of a mile apart. These are called First, Second, Third, and so on, from east to west, up to Eleventh and Twelfth, which faces the North River. Projecting portions of the Island, east of First av., are also given a supple- mentary series, known as Av. A, B, C and D. It must also be noted, that between Third and Fourth avs. is Lexington av. ; and between Fourth and Fifth avs. is Madison av., the latter beginning at 23d st. Remember the position of these two odd avenues, and that a// avenues run north and south, and are counted from east to west, and you have a key to the whole situation. Running east and west, from river to river, and crossing ail the avenues at right angles, are the numbered streets. These begin somewhat irregularly, and first 14 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. appear on Broadway at Sth, while 13th is the first one permitted by the previous arrangement of streets to run straight from river to river. These cross-streets are one-twentieth of a mile apart, and increase in numbers toward the north, so that i8th St., measuring straight up an avenue, is just one-half mile north of Sth, 28th another half mile, and so on, up to 222d St., which is the last one, at the upper- most end of the island. At intervals of eight or ten streets a broad one occurs, which accounts for the peculiar prominence of 14th, 23d, 34th, 42d, and so on. The numbering of the avenues begins at their southern extremities, and proceeds up town. Fifth av. occupies a nearly central position, and all the cross-streets are divided by it into "East" and "West," respectively. The numbering of these streets proceeds in each direction from this avenue toward the rivers. In taking or giving an address, therefore, you should be particular to indicate whether it is in East or West 00th st, since they are quite distinct. The numbering of houses in this city is continuous, and does not break into even hundreds with every new block, as in Philadelphia and some western towns. A little experience will enable one to judge, however, about how far up town on the avenues, or east or west of Fifth av., on cross-streets, a given number is ; and in the appendix to the City Directory will be found an index answering this question. The down-town streets running par- allel with the rivers, number from the Battery up ; those crossing, number right and left from Broadway. Local Designations. — The stranger will not be long in New York before he will read and hear certain sections of the city spoken of by local names, such as " The Hook," " Harlem," etc. Nearly all these names are the designations of old villages in existence before the growth of the city had engulfed them into one homogeneous population. Others are more modern appellations growing out of local peculiarities. That part of the city east of Second av., between Houston and 14th sts., is often called " Germany," because populated almost exclusively by Germans; while "Chinatown" in Mott St., and " Africa" in the lower part of Thompson st. indicate other races. Corlear's Hook or " The Hook," is at the bend of East River (which see) just below Grand st. and opposite the Brooklyn Navy Yard. It was called after Jacob van Corlear, who was in the service of the West Indies (Company whose traders came tq Manhattan) as early as 1633, ^"-emi of the force is in charge of Inspec- tor Thomas A. Byrnes, and keeps the Rogtics' Gallery — a collection of photo- graphic portraits of criminals who have made themselves notorious in any direc- tion — and a museum of implements and relics of great crimes and criminals ; these can be seen, however, only by the favor of some officer. Among so many men a few "black sheep " are likely to occur ; but the esprit de corps of the force is high, and as a whole, it is an intelligent, brave and honorable body of men. Strangers may and should appeal to them for advice and aid in any time of need. They can trust to their guidance and information, and, on the other hand, they should cheerfully comply with their regulations and orders. About 100 men are posted at the busiest corners to regulate traffic and assist pedestrians in crossing the crowded thoroughfares. The uniform of blue and brass is strictly regulated by law, and the men are compelled to keep it smart, and maintahi a neat and orderly appearance. This uniform and the helmet have been copied all over the United States. The guardians of the parks and squares, distinguished by the gray uniforms, are under the control of the Park Commissioners, and are else- where mentioned. Two magazine articles, illustrated, on the police force, may be read with profit by those interested; one is Harper''s,iox March, 18S7 ; and the other, by Ernest Ingersoll, was published in Scribner's Monthly for 1878. (See also Courts, Etc.) A special corps of police is attached to the Street Cleaning Department to enforce its ordinances. The Health Department is, in fact, a branch of the Police. Its control is vested in the President of the Board of Police, the Health Officer of the port, and two Commissioners, one of whom must be a practicing physician. A corps of medical inspectors is employed for the cure and prevention of disease, in the inspection of tenement houses, factories, etc., and for the enforcement of the health laws and the sanitary code, and a detail of police officers assist in this work, There is also a vaccinating corps, a corps for disinfection, and a corps of milk and meat inspectors. One of the most important functions of this Board is the collec- tion of vital statistics, and the supervision of persons practicing medicine. The legal support of the work of the Board is ample, and it often happens that some actual wrong, technically out of reach of other powers, can be abated or punished by an appeal to the Health Commissioners. Their office is at Police Headquarters. Sanitation. — A cjuotation from the last Mayor's message is interesting here: The public health may be considered as ne.xt in importance to personal security, 26 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. and in this respect our condition is one of steady amelioration. For many years this city has enjoyed almost complete immunity from every form of pestilence. During the jiast year there has been a substantial decrease in mortality, and from the vigor with which the Sanitary Code is now enforced we may reasonably expect a still further diminution of the death rate. The Department of Health has for some months jiast devoted a great deal of attention to the improvement of the sewerage, and by the intelligent cooperation of the Department of Public Works there is every reason to believe that the original defects in the construction of the older sewers will soon be remedied. Our pro.ximity to the sea affords great facili- ties for effective drainage, and it is the earnest purpose of the municipal adminis- tration to so improve these natural advantages that in a short time we may enjoy the possession of a perfect system of sewerage, so arranged and constructed that the drainage of the city may be discharged into the harbor in places where it will become subject to the movement of the tides, and thus be carried out to the open sea without danger to the public health. The fire Department and Insurance. Nothing is more exciting or entertaining to visitors from the country than the scenes at a fire in the city ; and they are ready to believe, afterward, that the New York Fire Department is a model to the whole country. It is controlled by three commissioners, one of whom is appointed by the Mayor every two years. Their office is in the handsome new Fii-e Headqu irters at 157-9 E. 67th st. Besides the extinguishing and investigation of causes of fires, the regulation of the transporta- tion, storage and use of combustibles and explosives, and the control of buildings — over 100,000 in number — with reference to their safety from fire or collapse, and the safety of their inmates, devolves upon the four bureaus of this department. It has also a superintendent of telegraph in charge of the fire-alarm telegraph system, which consists of 1,069 miles of wire, with 1,066 alarm-boxes; medical offi- cers for the examination of candidates for appointment and attending disabled fire- men ; a repair-shop, under a captain of the uniformed force ; a superintendent of horses, and a training-stable for teaching horses while on trial before purchase. The cost of maintaining the department, which numbers in all about 1200 officers and employes, is nearly ^^2,000,000 a year. The uniformed force of firemen proper is commanded by a Chief of Department, and is divided into 12 battalions, each commanded by a Chief of Battalion. There were, at the last accounting, 74 companies located in houses throughout the city (55 engine and 19 hook-and-ladder companies). The apparatus consists of 85 steam fire-engines, 2 marine or floating engines, called " fire-boats," 84 hose-tenders, 3 water-towers, 36 hook-and-ladder trucks, 337 horses, 186,586 feet of hose, etc. Scaling-ladders and other life-saving appliances are now in use in all the hook-and- ladder companies, and over one-third of the force has been trained in their use. A visit to an Engine-house may be made at ordinary hours, and the foreman in charge will take pleasure in showing appreciative persons the details of the GENERAL FACTS AS TO NEW YORK CfTV. 27 establishment. If you can happen to be there when an alarm of fire is struck, you will be lucky, but must expect no courtesy as to leave-taking — and you'd better get out of the way! The horses, unhitched automatically by the electric current which strikes the alarm, spring to their places, where the men, whose duty it is, lower the harness hung overhead, and with half a dozen dextrous snappings of clasps make the required fastenings. Meanwhile the men come sliding down the smooth pole that reaches through round hatchways to the top floor, or tumble half-dressed down-stairs, the driver has mounted his seat and gathered the reins, the front doors are thrown open, the engineer and firemen have lighted the ever- prepared fire, and with the fire-laddies' cry " Let her go, Gallagher ! " the machine — a fountain of blaze and smoke — bell ringing, whistle shrilly blowing, attended by a clanging hose-cart and impeded by no obstacle that can hurry out of the way, rushes on its errand of salvation. The alarm may have come from a point a mile away, but the steamer that was not there and at work within five minutes would be considered slow. A first alarm calls only the apparatus of a single battalion ; but where a fire seems at all threatening, a second and third alarms quickly follow, which summon from a far wider territory ; and in case of a really great or threat- ening conflagration, special alarms are sent by the "chief" in charge, who may even ring the portentous " double sixes " which calls for everything the city can furnish in the quickest possible time. Each alarm of fire is promptly reported at the appropriate police station, whereupon — when it seems necessary — the reserve platoon of police in the station at that hour is turned out to form a cordon around the burning building and keep back the crowd which is sure to assemble, and which will be sure to contain enterprising thieves. No one is permitted to pass the police lines unless he wears one of the badges furnished by the Commissioners to a limited number of olificials, insurance men and newspaper reporters. An annual parade of the department takes place in the spring, and makes a. very pretty spectacle. The Insurance Patrol companies, or salvage corps, as the English call them, are an independent body, having no direct connection with the Fire Department, though cooperating with the latter in the extinguishing of fires by the use of special appliances, and through the rescue or salvage of property, which latter service is no part of the duty of firemen. This corps is supported by the Board of Fire Underwriters (combined insurance companies), and owes its origin to the circumstances which followed the great fire in this city of 1835. The loss at that time was $25,000,000, and the financial dis- aster culminated in the panic of 1837 when prices fell, doubt existed everywhere, merchants and tradesmen were comj^elled to suspend business, and distress was almost universal. As is almost invariably the case when retail business is bad in a large community, there was an era of fires, most of them down town in the business districts, and many of them of incendiary origin, and the firemen were 28 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. called out almost every night. The insurance companies became alarmed at their losses, and agreed among themselves to establish an insurance patrol, selecting for the most part old firemen for iwtrolmen. They were found to be both vigilant and prompt, discovering without delay fires of which the department heard noth- ing, and sometimes putting them out without any alarm. This was the origin of the present fire insurance patrol system. During the half century which has fol- lowed the inauguration of these property-saving companies in New York, the orig- inal plan of operation has of course been much extended, and the members of the insurance patrol companies have ceased to occupy themselves with the business of giving alarm, their efforts in this respect having been entirely superseded by the present electric alarm system, and their services being now directed chiefly to the task of saving goods, either by covering them up or removing them, and in preventing damage by water, which is a more serious source of loss to insurance companies than is fire itself or the incidental damage done liy breakage. For this purpose the insurance patrol men have various contrivances of their own, which form part of the equipment of the big red wagons upon which they ride to fires. The extraordinary celerity with which these men start from their stations on hearing an alarm, and the speed with which they travel often exceeds that of the firemen, whom they are always ambitious to get ahead of. After the conflagration has been quenched, if there is any property left undestroyed, a member of the patrol stays to guard it, not so much against general thieving as to prevent prop- erty owners who might be so disposed from removing after a fire effects for which the company would be called upon to pay, but for his attendance and vigilance. Insurance Matters offer little to interest the stranger. The New York Board of Fire Underwriters (Boreel Building) is a corporation composed of insurance companies, which endeavors to regulate and advance the business in many ways, and to " maintain rates." Insurance, nevertheless, is low, owing to the intense competition. According to the last report of the Superintendent of Insurance, the gross sum paid by insurers to companies doing business in this country against losses by fire was, in 1889, $105,187,011. Against this the companies paid back to persons sustaining loss the sum of $62,540,335, and they expended otherwise than in paying losses the sum of $35,522,831, so that the net profit for the year is in the vicinity of $7,000,000, on a total yearly risk of over $3,000,000,000, counting all property insured against loss by fire. Insurance agents and brokers have formed an Underwriters' Club, which meets in handsome rooms in the Equitable Building. The Walford Library is among its attractions. \Nater and Lights. Water Supply. — New York gets its water supply mainly from the Croton river and a group of lakes, some 40 miles northward. It is brought by the Croton aqueduct — a conduit of brick and stone completed in 1842 and able to deliver 96,000,000 gallons a day. From the Bronx river is derived 16,000,000 gallons a GENERAL FACTS AS TO NEW YORK CTTY. 29 day more. The Croton aqueduct crosses the Harlem upon the viaduct known as High Bridge (hereafter described). In Central Park, four miles below High Bridge, is the retaining reservoir, capable of holding 1,030,000,000 gallons, and just below this is the receiving reservoir, which holds 150,000,000 gallons more. The distributing reservoir is on Fifth av., bet. 40th and 42d sts., in the heart of the city, and 115 feet above tide water. IJesides these there is a "high service" reservoir holding 11,000,000 gallons, at High Bridge, and another at Ninth av. and 97th St. The iron mains distributing the water under the principal streets aggregate about 660 miles in length, which feed 8,420 fire hydrants in addition to the private supply pipes. For several years a new aqueduct has been building to increase the supply. This source is the same Croton watershed, but new retain- ing reservoirs have been, or remain to be, built to store so much of the 400,000,000 gallons of water now running to waste, as may be desirable. This new aqueduct, which will cost nearly $25,000,000 before it is done, is now so near finished that it will become available before the close of 1890. It is a tunnel, 14 feet in diameter, and over 30 miles in length, carried through solid rock, at an average depth of 500 ft. below the surface. It leads, like the others, to the reservoir in Central Park and will be distributed by the present system of pipes. Its ultimate capacity, when the system of storage reservoirs has been completed, will be 300 millions of gallons daily, and enough water will come through at the first opening to satisfy all demands for some years to come and to restore the proper degree of pressure. It is probable that no great city in the world uses so much water per capita as does New York. Croton water is as pure and wholesome as could be desired, and no one need hesitate to drink it freely. The income of the city for water service now exceeds $2,550,000 a year. Illumination. — The city now lights 503 miles of street, mainly with gas, for which there are over 27,000 lamps, but also by electric arc-lamps in great number, the wires for which are principally carried in the subways, — a system of iron tubes laid underneath the pavements of the principal streets. II. THE ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. Advice to Inexperienced Travelers. AN arrival in New York, or any other large city, alone and for the first time, is an ordeal to which many persons look forward with justifiable dread. What shall they do first — whither shall they go — what arrangements are to be made regarding baggage — how shall they find the proper way — how escape mischievous misleading of some sort and unnecessary expenses ? These questions occur to many inexperienced travelers ; and it is the purpose of this chapter to answer them, as to New York, as explicitly as possible. The Metropolis has many entrances. A dozen regular lines of steamships bring passengers from Europe, and many others from South and Central America, the West Indies, and the ports along the Gulf of Mexico and the South Atlantic coast. Lines of steamboats connecting with railroads come down the Hudson and from Long Island Sound. Five great railway termini stand upon the western bank of the Hudson and are connected with New York by ferries. Long Island is covered with a network of roads, and it is proposed to construct at the further end of the island a great ocean entrepot, which would make that approach a very important one. Finally, in the very heart of the city, stands the Grand Central Depot. It will be well to point out distinctly the landing places of passengers arriving by any one of these routes, beginning with the ocean steamships. Cabin passengers may go ashore as soon as the vessel is made fast and will find Custon^ House inspectors ready to examine their baggage on the wharf without delay Pick out your trunks, give to the inspector your " declaration " and your keys, be polite and good-tempered and the ordeal is quickly and easily passed. Steamship Landings. TRANSATLANTIC STEAMSHIPS : Anchor Line. — Pier 41 (new), N. R. (North River), foot of LeRoy st.; office 7 Bowling Green. (Liverpool, via Queenstown.) ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. 31 Cotnpagnie Generale Transathuitique.—Yi^x 42, N. R., ft. of Morton st. ; office, 3 Bowling Green. (French line to Havre.) Canard Line.— V\&\ 40, N. R., ft. of Clarkson St.; Office, 4 Bowling Green. (Liv- erpool, via Queenstown.) Guion Z/«i'.— Pier 38, N. R., ft. of King st. ; office, 35 Broadway. (Liverpool, via Queenstown.) Hamburg American Packet Company.— \lo\ioVQ.\\ ; offices, 37 and 6i Broadway. (Hamburg, via Southampton.) Inman Z/w.— Pier 43, N. R., adjoining Christopher St. ferry; office, 6 Bowhng Green. (Liverpool, via Queenstown.) " Monarch " Line. — (See Wilson Line.) National Z/w.— Pier 39 (new), N. R. ; office 27 State st. (London.) Netherlands Line.— ]exsQy City, ft. of York st. ; office, 39 Broadway. (Rotterdam and Amsterdam.) Norddentscher Lloyd [German) Z/;/.'.— Hoboken, ft. of 2d St.; office, 2 Bowhng Green. (Bremen via Southampton.) Red Star Line.—]Qxsty City, Pennsylvania R. R. pier, ft. of Montgomery st. ; office, 6 Bowling Green. (Antwerj).) State Steamship Company.— V\tx 34 (new) foot of Canal st. ; office, 53 Broadway. (Cilasgow.) White Star Line.—V\tx 45 (new) N. R. ft. of W. loth st. ; office, 41 Broadway. (Liverpool, via Queenstown.) Other lines carry few, if any, passengers. COASTWISE steamships: Atlas Steamship Company.— V\ex 55 (new), N. R., ft. of W. 2Sth st. ; office, 24 State St. (West Indies and Mosquito Coast ports.) Clyde Steamship Company.— V\(ix 29, E. R., ft. of Roosevelt st. ; office, 5 Bowling Green. (Charleston and Florida.) Crovnvell Line.-Vxex 9, N. R., ft. of Rector st. (New Orleans.) Honduras &= Central American Cotitpany. — Brooklyn, Atlantic Dock; office, 19 Whitehall st. (Kingston, Grey town, etc.) yI/(?//w7 Z/w.— Pier 20, East River, Burling Slip; office, 362 Broadway (Galve- ston.) New York &^ Cuba Mail Steamship Company. — Pier 16, E. R., ft. of Wall St.; office, 113 Wall St. (Havana and other ports in Cuba and Mexico ) Old Dominion Steamship Company. — Pier 26, N. R., ft. of Beach st. ; office, 235 West St. (Norfolk, Richmond, etc.) Pacific Mail Steamship Cf^w/f^/n/.— Pier 34, N. R., ft. of Canal St.; office on the pier. (California, China and Japan, via Isthmus of Panama.) Red D Z/w.— Pier 36, E. R. foot of Jefferson St.; office, 71 Wall st. (West Indies and Carribean Coast.) Savannah Line. — Pier 35, N.R., ft of Spring s-t. ; office, 317 Broadway. (Savannah.) All of the steamship landings are adjacent to horse-cars (tram-cars) to all parts of the city ; several of the principal hotels, including the Windsor, Brevoort, Fifth Avenue, and some others, send their own coaches to meet the incoming steamers of the transatlantic lines ; and any number of cabs and baggage transfer 32 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. agencies or wagons will be found at the street-end of the wharf, the rules and customs of which are detailed farther on. Rlmr and Sound Steamboats. The only lines of River and Long Island Sound steamers with which we need concern ourselves here, are those that do more than a merely local traffic, and con- nect at their further end with railways ; they are, principally, the People's and the Citizens' lines to Albany and Troy, the Catskill, Kingston and Newburg lines, and the " Mary Powell " on the Hudson River ; and the Old Colony, Providence, Stonington, Norwich, New Haven and Bridgeport lines, on Long Island Sound. The river boats cease running during the winter months, when the Hudson is impeded by ice, but the Sound boats are rarely interrupted or even delayed. Most of the Hudson River boats touch at W. 22d St., and some of the Sound lines halt at E. 23d st. The ordinary time of arrival is between 5 and 7 A. M., or, for the day lines, toward sunset. The landings of all these boats (save those of the New Haven, Hartford and Bridgeport lines) are close together on the North River, at the foot of the streets following : Albany Day Line Vestry. Albany, People's Line (night) Canal. Albany & Troy, Citizens' Line Christopher. Catskill (Catskill R. R.) Jay. Kingston (Ulster & Delaware R. R.) Harrison. Newburg (two lines) ... Vestry or Franklin. " Mary Powell " Vestry. Old Colony line (Old Colony R. R.) Murray. Providence (Railroad to Boston) Warren. Stonington (Railroad to Boston) .Canal. Norwich (New London & Northern R. R.) Desbrosses. The New Haven line (N. Y., N. H. & H. R. R.) lands at Peck Slip, just above Fulton Market, East River ; the Hartford boats at the pier next below, and the Bridgeport (Housatonic R. R.) line at the foot of Catherine St., E. R. Railway Stations. The railway termini are situated as follows : Baltimore & Ohio, Philadelphia & Reading, Cenfral R. R. of New Jersey (Bound Brook Route), and dependencies, Communipaw, Jersey City, reaching New York by ferries to foot of Liberty st. The nearest El. Ry. stations are Liberty st., on Ninth Av. line, and Cortlandt st. on Sixth Av. line. Pennsylvania Railroad, Lehigh Valley, N. Y., Susquehanna & Western, N. J. Midland, and dependencies, Jersey Citv, with ferries to the foot of Cort- landt and Desbrosses sts. The Cortlandt St. ferry is the best one to take for a ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. 33 person going to the Astor House, the Post Office, the Brookhn Biidge, or uptown by any of the elevated roads. The Desbrosses St. ferry-house, however, is regarded l)y the company as its main N-ew York station, and thither goes the bag- gage checked " New York," unless it be particularly checked to " Cortlandt St., N. \'.," at the beginning of the journey. For Brooklyn take the Annex boat from the Jersey City side. New York, Lake Erie & Western (Erie) Railway, Chicago & Atlan- tic, and local dependencies, Pavonia av., Jersey City, reaching New York by ferries to Chambers st. and W. 23d st. The former is within three blocks of the Warren St. station, of the Ninth Av. El. Ry. or of the Chambers St. station of the Sixth Av. El. Ry.; and within six blocks of the City Hall, Post Office, Brooklyn Bridge and the City Hall station of the Thu'd and Second Av. El, Rys From the W. 23d St. ferry-house, horse-cars run in several directions. An Annex boat goes to Brooklyn. Delaware, Lackawanna & Western, and Morris & Essex R. Rs. have a depot in Hoboken, whence ferries come to Barclay St., and to Christopher st., New York. Barclay St. landing is near to the Barclay St. station on the Ninth Av. El. Ry., and to Park Place station on the Sixth Av. El. Ry.; it is five blocks from the Post Office, and seven blocks from the City Hall station of the Third A v. El. Ry. and the Brooklyn Bridge, and this ferry should be taken for Brooklyn, as there is no Annex boat from Hoboken. At Christopher st. is a station of the Ninth av. El. Ry. and horse-cars to Union Square and elsewhere. The West Shore and the Ontario & Western R. Rs. and their western connections come into a depot at Weehawken, north of Hoboken. A downtown ferry brings passengers to the foot of Jay st., close by Chambers (see Erie R. R., above) ; and an uptown ferry crosses directly to the foot of W. 42d st., whence horse-cars radiate to all parts of the city. There is also an Annex boat directly to Fulton St., Brooklyn, leaving after the arrival of important trains. This finishes the list of stations on the New Jersey shore ; whether the long- talked-of tunnel underneath the Hudson, or the bridge over it, will some day allow the western railroads an actual entrance to Manhattan Island, remains to be seen. At present there is only one passenger station (save the purely local one in W. 30th St.) on the island. This is the Grand Central Depot, next to be mentioned. The New York Central & Hudson River R. R., the New York & Har- lem R. R., and the New York, New Haven & Hartford R. R. unite their termini in the Fourth Av. Tunnel, which leads them to the Grand Central Depot at Fourth av. and E. 42d st. This tunnel, which occupies the center of Fourth (or Park) av., is 4^ miles long and perfectly straight. At first it is simply an open cut, then, where the ground is low (Harlem flats), it becomes for a short dis- tance a viaduct of masonry arching over the east-and-west cross-streets. At I30tb 34 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. St. the rising ground forces the road into a tunnel of rock and brickwork, diviikd by longitudinal arches into three apartments carrying four tracks, which continue south to 45th St. The central part of this." tunnel " is, to a great extent, open above, and spanned by ornamental bridges carrying the cross-streets. The middle of the street over the tunnel, and around these spacious openings in the roof, is planted in a continuous series of pretty little parks, leaving room for a driveway and sidewalks on each side of them, and this part of Park av. (as Fourth av. is here designated) is pleasant and fashionable for residence. Between 41st and 33d sts,, below the terminus, a second similar tunnel is used by horse-cars. The Grand Central Depot is a large building in the French style, which faces 42d St. across Fourth av., and extends along Vanderbilt av. for almost three blocks. It is occupied by the waiting rooms and general offices of the three companies above mentioned, each quite separate from the others, and with separate entrances. Those of the New Haven road are on the 42d st. front, while the Harlem and Cen- tral companies occupy the western side. In the rear is a general train-house 695 feet long, covered by a glass and iron roof, having a single arch of a span of 200 ft., and an altitude of no ft. This train-house was soon outgrown, however, and is now devoted wholly to outgoing trains, all arriving trains coming into an annexed building just east of it, where the facilities for discharging passengers are greatly increased. This arrival station faces 42d st., and horse-cars of the Fourth Av. line will be found inside its doors ready to cany passengers directly down town, past Madison and Union squares, and along the Bowery to the Post Office and Brooklyn Bridge, crossing all lateral lines. A stairway within the doors leads directly to a branch of the Third Av. El Ry., which is the quickest route to Brooklyn. Horse-cars passing the door on 42d st. will carry the passenger directly to the W. 42d St. station of the Sixth Av. El. Ry., about ten minutes' walk west- ward. The arriving baggage is stored in this station until called for. Uniformed porters are on hand to assist passengers in reclaiming it ; there is no charge, but a small " tip " will accelerate their movements. Baggage-express and cab offices are in the building, and hotel coaches and cabs stand at the door, where policemen and detectives are always at hand to see that no one annoys or imposes upon the busy and perhaps somewhat bewildered passenger. The system is so perfect and the management so strong at this great station, that any confusion or difficulty is extremely rare, in spite of the enormous crowds handled. There is no safer place for man, woman or child, stranger or citizen, in the city of New York, than the Grand Central station. It forms a sub-precmt of police, provided with a regular- station and lock-up (in the basement). There are also restaurants within the building, as well as just across the street, barber shops, telegraph and messenger offices, etc., etc. Into this station must come all passengers by rail from Montreal, Quebec, and the Maritime Provinces of Canada, and from all New England and r-o- \ I -^* ' 1"^"^ 1^ III ^ 1, \ 1^— J ja 11,-^^ ill' ( \' ■.-*-* ->-* U '" P m GEIIBgL HUDSON lira PILROP. TheONLYLlE liTEiGMI IYofllEWYORK. THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE TO The West, North-West, North, and South-West. Eight Magnificently Appointed Passenger Trains Daily Traverse the Empire State between New York and Buffalo and the West. SCENERY UNEQUALED, EQUIPMENT UNSURPASSED. WAGNER DRAWING-ROOM, SLEEPING, AND DINING CARS ON ALL EXPRESS TRAINS. The Direct Line to Niagara Falls. All Trains Arrive at and Depart from GRMND OENTRML- STMTION 4th Avenue and 42d Street, New York, Largest and finest passenger station in America, and the only one in the City of New York. Ticlvets over the New York Central and connecting lines can be obtained at the following oflices: ^ NEW YORK: Nos. 413, 785 942. 1 Broadway, 12 Park Place, 53 West 125th St., 138th St. and Grand Central Stations. BROOKLYN :-Nos. 333 Washington Street, 726 Fulton Street, and 398 Bedford Avenue. JOHN M. TOUCEY, GEORGE H. DAN I ELS, Gene al :Manager, General Passenger Agent, Grand Centr.^l Station, New York. ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. 35 Northern New York points, by whatever route ; and all passengers ticketed over the New York Central R. R. Ijy its western connections. The Long Island R. R. discharges its passengers in Brooklyn at its station on Flatbush av. (see Brooklyn); and at its station on East River, in Long Island City, whence ferries bring passengers to New York at James Slip (down town, near Fulton St.), Or at the foot of E. 34th st. From the latter landing horse-cars run across town (through 23d and 42d sts.) ; and it is a branch station of both the Second and Third Av. El. Rys. The arrival stations of the railways which reach the city by ferry over the Hud son River, are mentioned on pages 32 and ll, and again in Chapt. III. under Ferries. At each one the coaches of several prominent hotels will be found on the arrival of the principal express trains from the west. Cabs are always numerous, baggage-express agencies will be found at or near each, and horse-cars go from each to all parts of the city. Baggage Transfers and Delivery. Ordinary baggage may be taken with you if you employ a hackman, and the delay, otherwise inevitable, will be avoided. The hotel 'busses get baggage for their patrons very promptly also. For those who do not hire cabs or carriages, that American institution, the " express delivery service," is easily available here Baggage Express. — On all important incoming trains, a uniformed solicitor for either Dodd's (N. Y. Transfer Co.) or Westcott's baggage delivery company passes through the train seeking orders. He will take your checks, giving a receipt therefor, and deliver your baggage to any part of New York or Brooklyn for 40 cents a piece ; to Jersey City, from the Grand Central Depot, the charge is 75 cents. The payment may be made in advance or on receipt of the article at the house, which will be in the course of two hours, ordinarily, if not earlier. These companies hold that delivery is made by placing the trunk or valise inside the front door of the hotel or house ; and they permit their men to charge an addi- tional 10 or 25 cents for carrying it upstairs. This annoyance may be avoided by employing an outside responsible agency, such as the Union Transfer Company or Jackson's Express (which have agents at the Grand Central Depot, and main offices down town), whose men are instructed to place the trunk in any part of the house desired without extra fee. Caution." — Never give up jour checks to anyone but a uniformed train-solicitor, or a regular office agent or porter of either the transportation company which holds the baggage or of the express company to which you mean to entrust it ; and always take a receipt ; and never give up your checks, if you claim your baggage yourself, to any person except the uniformed baggage-men of the railway or steamboat line by which you have travelled. If you expect to meet or visit friends in the city, 36 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. who are old residents, the best way probably is to keep your checks and let your friend manage the delivery of your baggage for you. lie may know private expressmen who will do the work cheaper than the large companies ; but it is dangerous for an entire stranger to attempt to economize in this way, since, like the man who went down to Jericho, he may " fall among thieves." Outgoing Baggage. — When you get ready to leave the city, an expressman will call at your house, and take and deliver your baggage at any station for from 25 to 40 cents a piece. Dodd's and Westcott's companies (both of which have many branch offices in New York and in all the adjoining cities), will check your baggage at the house to your destuiation in any part of the country, so that you need have no trouble vvith it at the railway station; but you must have bought your railway ticket in advance, and must pay 10 cent* additional for the accommo- dation. Hacks and Cabs. The rich, we are told, " they ride in chaises," and they may be expected to understand the cost and be ready to pay it. The majority of persons, how- ever, will be willing to forego both the expense and discom- fort of driving in a hack over the city pavements. Travellers often stop over in New York on through tickets from the South or West to New England, or vice versa. All such tickets contain a coupon, entitling the passenger to a ride in the coaches of the Transfer Co. across the city, between the Grand Central Depot and any ferry station, or to any hotel or suitable stopping point between these points. These coaches meet all the great express trains, and may be taken advantage of as indicated above. Carriages or cabs may be hired of the train solicitors above mentioned at the following rates: Two-horse coaches, by the hour, Jr. 50 for the first hour or part, and 75 cents for each succeeding half-hour or part; by the mile, $1 for the first mile or part, and 40 cents for each succeeding half-mile or part. One-horse cabs, by the hour, $1 for the first, and 50 cents for each succeeding half-hour or part; by the mile, 50 cents for the first mile, and 25 cents for each ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. 37 succeeding half-mile. If you wait till you arrive and then hire a carriage, be sure to have a distinct understanding with the hackmaii as to the pay, or a wrangle and attempt to over-charge at the end of the journey is sure to result. " The New York hack-driver," remarks a recent writer, " is never content to accept the legal fare until convinced that he will get no more. Consult the table of legal fares given below, a copy of which should be posted in the hack, together with the number of the license and the owner's name and address. Having done this, and figured out the sum which the driver is entitled to, tender it to him, and if he declines to take it, refuse to pay him any more, provided you are willing to go to the Mayor's office to have the matter settled. If the rates of fare, etc., are not posted in the hack, you are under no obligation to pay at all except at the Mavor's office, to which the driver will surely summon you if you owe him more than the fine of $5 which he may be compelled to pay. Every licensed vehicle is bound to have the driver's number, cut from a metal plate, and fastened across his lamp." Cabs — By the mile. — 50 cts. for the first mile, and 25 cts. for each additional half-mile. For stops over five minutes and not exceeding- 15, 25 cts.; for longer stops, 25 cts. for each 15 minutes. By the Hour. — With the privilege of going and stopping to suit yourself, $1 fur the first hour, or part thereof, and 50 cts. for each additional half-hour. This tariff includes Hansom cabs. Coaches — By the mile. — One dollar for the first mile or part thereof ; and each additional half-mile or part thereof, 40 cts. By distance for " stops ' 38 cts. for each 15 minutes. For brief stop not over 5 minutes, no charge. By the Hour. — $1.50 first hour or part thereof, and each succeeding half-hour or part thereof, 75 cents. From "line balls "one or two pas- sengers, to any point south of 59th St., $2 ; each additional passenger, 50 cts. ; north of 59th St, each additional mile 50 cts. " Carriages and cabs are found at the various railway depots and ferries on the arrival of trains, at the principal hotels, and at the City Hall Park, and Union and Madison sqs. The legal fares are understood to be for one or two persons in a cab, or for 'one, two, three, or four persons in a carriage ; while children under 8 vears are to be carried free when accompanied by adults. It also includes the carrying of one piece of baggage ; for all pieces over one a sjjecial bargain must be made. If the hack is engaged without any understanding between driver and passenger, the hiring of the hack should be regarded as being by the mile." The fare everywhere on the trains of the elevated railroads and on all the horse- cars in New York, Brooklyn and the New Jersey cities, is five cents without regard to distance. Hotels, Lodging Houses and Restaurants. HOTELS. New York has always been proud of its hotels, which are almost numberless and which year by year increase in excellence of service and splendor of appoint- ments. They are scattered from the Battery to Harlem River, but few of promi- nence are farther than a square or two from Broadway or Fifth av., and all the foremost are between Madison sq. and Central Park. One of the signs of cosmo- politan growth in this city is the wide adoption of the " European " plan of hotel- 38 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. keeping, two-tliiids of the hotels, great and little, now following that method, or combining it with the other. Hotels on the American plan furnish lodging, meals at fixed hours, attend- ance, etc., at a price varying from $2 to $5 a day, with unlimited enlargement for extra fine rooms and other advantages. At these hotels breakfast, luncheon, dinner, both at mid-day and at night, tea at night for those who dine at mid-day, and supper until midnight, are the meals set by the most expensive. It should be noted that the proprietors charge travellers for the meal which is on the table when they arrive, and also for the one on the table when they are departing. As there is scarcely a break from daylight till midnight, a person will be quite sure to be charged for one, if not two, more meals than he has eaten, unless he is careful. The best way is to insist in atlvance, when registering your name at the clerk's office, that your account begin with the first meal which you propose eating. For example, " breakfast " at the larger hotels lasts until eleven o'clock, and if you arrive at 10 130 you are charged with it, thougli lunch or dinner is where your account really begins, since you have breakfasted at an earlier hour on the incom- ing train, and do not propose to eat again ; hence you should make the stipula- tion that your account begin with the noon meal, or else refuse to remain at the house. The hotels upon the American plan are mainly patronized bv persons of regular life, who can command their time; and are largely inhabited by permanent boarders, who can get greatly reduced rates, and who prefer this mode of living to housekeeping with its worries and responsibilities. Hence several of the very finest hotels in the city are conducted under this system, and some of the most expensive and elegant are little known to the travelling public, because so well sustained by families of New York people. Following is a list of the principal hotels on the American plan, with the lowest ordinary rate, by the day, for one per- son, higher rates being charged for superior room accommodations : Fifth Avenue, Broadway and 23d St. (Madison sq.) — $5. Windsor, Fifth av. and 46th st. — $6. Sherwood House, Fifth av. and 44th St. Metropolitan, 5S4 Broadway — $3. Miller's, 37 to 41 W. 26th st. Madison A-vcnne, Madison av. and 58th St. Lenox, Fifth av. and 36th st. Avrill House, 132 W. 42d st. Westmittster, Irving PI. and i6th st. Bristol, Fifth av. and 4 2d st. City, 393 Lexington av. Earless, Canal and Centre sts. — $2. Grainercy Park House, Gramercy Park. Oriental, 13 Lafayette Place and 1414 Broadway. C=^a^ q^AiWD CJntrail, fil^POT, W, D. GARRISON, Manager. 600 R007VTS KT $1.00 PER Day A.ND UPWARDS. EUROPEAN PLAN. First-class Restaurant, Dining-Rooms, Cafe, and Lunch Counter, a la carte, at moderate prices. GUESTS' BAGGAGE TO AND FROM GRAND CENTRAL DEPOT FREE Travelers arriving via Grand Central Depot save Car- riage-hire and Baggage Express by stopping at the Grand Union. The photograph 011 preceding page shows a portion of this Hotel, and its nearness to the Grand Central Depot. ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. 39 Combination Plan. — Several prominent hotels combine both plans, and the traveler may choose which he prefers ; among them are : Ashland, Fourth av. and 24th st. — Am. $3, Eur. %\. Bradford, 65 E. nth st. Bitrliiigtoii, Fifth av. and 30th st. C/art'iidon, 217 Fourth av. Gladstone, Broadway and 59th st. Grand Central, 671 iJroadway. — Am. $2.50, P2ur. $1. Hotel America, 15 Irving Place. Hotel EspaTiol c Hispano-Ainericano, 116 W. 14th st. Hotel Royal, Sixth av. and 40th st. Murray Hill, Park av. and 41st st. — Am. $4.50, Eur. %2. Stnrtevant, 1186 Broadway. — Am. $3.50, Eur. $1.50. Victoria, Fifth av. and 27th st. — Am. ;S4.50, Eur. ^2. Wellington, Madison av. and 42d st. European Plan. — The hotels conducted wholly upon the European plan are in the following list, so far as they are important to know. In these hotels rooms are rented, with gas, service, towels, etc., at so much a day, and one is at liberty to take his meals in the restaurant attached to the hotel, or anywhere else. The prices range from %\ a night for a single room (minimum) in the hotels below Union Square to $2 and $3 above that point ; but especially good rooms and extra privileges must be paid for at higher rates. As a general rule, the bigger the hotel and the more fashionable its surroundings the higher the price, but $1.50 for a single room and $2 to $3 for two persons together will procure accommoda- tions quite satisfactory to most travelers, (see also above). LIST OF HOTELS ON EUROPEAN PLAN. Al'crdeen, Broadway and 21st st. — $1. Albemarle, Broadway and 24th st. — $2. Arno, 2Sth st. and Broadway. Astor, 225 Broadway — $1.50. Barrett House, Broadway and 43d st. — ^^l. Bartholdi, cor. 23d st. and Broadway. Belvedere, Fourth av. and i8th st. Brevoort, 11 Fifth av. — $2. Brower House, Broadway and 28th St. — $1, Buckingham, Fifth av. and 50th st. — $2. Coleman, 1 169 Broadway — %\. Colonnade, 35 Lafayette Place and 726 Broadway. — %\- Continental, 904 Broadway cor. 20th st. — $1. Cosmopolitan, Chambers st. and W. Broadway — $1. Cumberlatid, 945 Broadway. Everett, Fourth av. and 17th st. (Union Square). Everett's Hotel and Dining Rooms, 104 Vesey st. — 75 cents. Gedney House, Broadway and 40th st. — ^i. 40 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Gilsey, Broadway and 29th st. — $2. G/cnJiam, 155 Fifth av. — ^$1. Grand, Broadway and 31st st. — $2. Grand Union, Fourth av. and 42d st. — %i. Grosvenor, 37 Fifth av. Hamblen's Hotel, 148 Chambers st. Hamilton, 42d st. and 50th av. Hoffman, mi Broadway. — $2. Hotel Brunsiuick, 225 Fifth av. — ^2. Hotel Dam, 104 E. 15th st. — $2. Hotel Devonshire, 30 E. 42d st. — $1. Hotel Hungaria, 4 Union sq. — ^i. Hotel Imperial, Broadway and 32d st. Hotel Martin, 17 University pi. cor. 9th st. — $1. Hotel Metropole, Broadway and 41st st. — #1. Hotel Monico, 7 E. l8th st. — $1. Hotel Normandie, 38th st. and Broadway. — $z. Hotel St. George, 825 Broadway. — %\. Hotel St. Mare, Fifth av. and 39th st. Hotel St. Step/ten, 50 E. nth St.— $1. International, 17 and 19 Parl< row. — $1. Irving House, i Irving pi. Lafayette, 9 Waverly pi. Langham , Fifth av. and 52d st. Leggetfs, 76 Park Row. — 75 cents. Mitchell House, Broadway and 42d St. Morton House, liroadway and 14th st. — %i. Mount Morris, 2396 Third av. (Harlem). Nezv York Hotel, 721 Broadway. — $1.50. Oriental, Broadway and 39th st. — $r. Parker, 1303 Broadway. Park Avenue, Fourth av. and 32d st. — %z. Plaza, 5th av. and 59th St. Putnam House, 367 Fourth av. Revere, 606 Broadway. — ■$!. Saint Charles, 648 Broadway. Sai)it Cloud, Broadway and 42d st. — $1. Saint Denis, Broadway and nth st. — $1.00. Saint James, 1 133 Broadway. — $2. Saint Nicholas, 4 Washington pi. — $r. Saint Omer, 384 and 386 Sixth av. Sinclair House, 75^ Broadway cor. 8th st. — $1. Sinith &= McNeils, 199 Washington St. — 75 cts. Stevens House, 27 Broadway.' — %\. Sweeney^s Hotel, 106 Park Row.— 75 cts. Szueet^s, 4 Fulton st. — 75 cts. Tremont, 665 Broadway. — %\. Union Square, 16 Union sq. — $2. United States, Fulton and Water sts. — %\. Vanderbilt, 42 d st. and Lexington av. — ^i. ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. 41 Veiidotne, Broadway and 41 st. — $2. Westmoreland., P'ourth av. and 17th St. Winthrop, 2088 7th av. Extras.^In all these hotels, of whatever plan, no " extras " will be found unexpectedly swelling the bill as so vexatiously happens in Europe ; except, that meals sent to private rooms, baths (when no bath is attached to the bed-room which you occupy) and fires, or, in some cases the turning on of steam-heat, are charged as extras. The fire is usually one of hard coal in an open grate, and costs from 50 cents to $1.00 a day; and 50 cents is the ordinary charge for a bath. In almost every hotel will be found telegraph oiSces, barber and boot-blacks, newstands and theatre-ticket offices ; and in many, railway ticket offices, and agents of the bag- gage transfer companies and carriage-lines. These men are authorized, and may be dealt with without hesitation. Characteristics of prominent Hostelries.— This is not the place to make any recommendations, but it is proper to remark upon a few distinctions which have been acquired by certain of the older hostelries. It would be difficult to divide them into classes, since they grade down by infinitesimal degrees from the palaces on Murray Hill to the " for-gentlemen-only " business shelters around the Post Office. Perhaps the most widely known of those on the American plan is the Fifth Avenue, which faces Madison sq., where Broadway, Fifth av. and 23d St. intersect Half a century ago or more Corporal Thompson's diminutive yellow tavern, once a farmer's cottage, stood here, and became an objective point for what in 1S30 was a long walk mto the fields, and a stopping place for drivers on the Bloomingdale road. The hotel is a large, plain, dignified edifice of white marble, capable of housing 1000 guests, and its corridors are filled every evening with politicians and elderly men-about-town. This hotel has long been the fa- vorite stopping-place of officials, and it has entertained, during the last 25 years,' far more public men than any other hotel in town. The Victoria and Hoffman are also political centers, the latter being the choice of the Democratic politicians in particular. Another very noted hotel is the Windsor, which is the residence of many active financiers, and the resort in the evening of a crowd of brokers, specu- lators and railway men interested in stocks and securities. The Murray Hill and Gilsey houses are also favorites with railway officers. At the Brunswick congre- gate \}n&jeit}iesse dorel who are interested in sport, and from its door start the drag parades and the trips of the amateur coaches. At the St. James, racing men congregate. The Hoffman is also a resort of turfmen and the sporting fraternity, and is noted for its extravagantly furnished bar-room, filled with costly paintings, statuary, tapestries and other artistic ornaments. The Everett, Albermarle, Union Square, and Morton houses are sustained largely by the patronage of the 42 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. dramatic profession. To the Brevoort and Clarendon go an unusual number of Englishmen of rank or wealth, who find in the quiet, old-fashioned elegance of the former, especially, something nearer an English inn than are any of the others in town. The Westminster, for some reason, is a great stopping place for mem- bers of the diplomatic service, while army and navy officers generally put up at the Sturtevant. The Astor is the leading hotel down town, and is always crowded with business men ; it has lost nothing but the use of its ground floor by the long increase of years it has seen ; and an enormous number of men gather daily in its " rotunda " to eat a hot luncheon and to drink at its great circular bar, which is said to be the largest institution of its kind in existence. The St. Denis, a popu- lar up-town hotel pleasantly located opposite Grace Church, is favored principally by people of moderate means, and ladies shopping. The New York has always been a favorite with Southerners, the Grand Central and Metropolitan with west- ern merchants, and the Grand Union and Murray Hill with the people of New England. Such quiet, somewhat retired hotels as Miller's, the St. Stephen, the Continental, the Colonnade, the Hotel Royal and others of that stamp are very suitable for family parties, or for ladies alone, who are disposed to comfort rather than display. The Park Avenue occupies the building erected by A. T. Stewart, and intended by him to be a woman's hotel, but which proved an unsuccessful beneficence. The names in the French, Italian and Spanish languages above written, indicate the Latin nationalities that support them. Many small German hotels occur on the East Side and in Harlem, but no distinctively German hotel of large size has yet been erected or called for. A colored man maintains a small hotel in W. 27th St., for patrons of his own color, who are not received, as a rule, in the first-class hotels of the city — the only social distinction yet prevalent in New York against giving a man of African descent equal privileges in public places with a man of Caucasian or Mongolian descent. A lady, unescorted may sometimes be refused admission to Ji hotel, by a plea of lack of rooms or some evasion of that kind. It is well, therefore, for ' lone women," especially if young, to write or telegraph in advance of their intention to arrive at a certain time ; or better yet to take a note of introduction. In case a lady finds herself unexpectedly alone and unacquainted in the city, and compelled to go to a hotel for the night, let her do so without hesitation, however, since the great probability is that she will meet with no more obstacle than if father or husband were with her , but if she does, she has only to insist upon her legal right, so long as her behavior is justifiable, to remain in a house of public enter- tainment, and deliberately do so. If this does not answer its purpose, and the lady thinks it worth the trouble, as compared with seeking another hotel, let her take a cab and drive to the nearest police station. A simple motion in this direction would bring any but a particularly foolish hotel keeper to terms, since ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. 43 it would mean an " item " for industrious reporters, of which the average Boniface stands in holy horror. The justification for any such inliospitality is, of course, the necessity of keeping dissolute characters of every kind out of any house of good reputation ; and the " lone female " is only one of the classes of applicants sometimes regarded with suspicion. Fees to servants in hotels are not generally regarded as necessary, although this bad, un-American custom is creeping into the more fashionable and modern ones up town. A small fee to your -waiter in the dining-room is generally given, however. Persons fresh from an experience in hotels in western and northern towns will find in New York a sweet relief from the crushing magnificence and awful superiority of that magnate, the " clerk." New York is too big and busy a place for that sort of affectation to flourish. Payment. — No traveller without baggage ought to consider it an insult to be asked to pay his bill for a certain period in advance ; and at most hotels, espe- cially those on the European plan, this will be required, unless the proprietor knows you — not, it is to be hoped, because he knows you ! Lodging and Boarding Houses. Furnished Rooms. — Private lodgings or " furnished rooms," as the New York phrase goes, are preferred to an hotel by many persons, and in some respects are to be recommended. By this is meant, however, simply the rental of a fur- nished room, with possibly the taking of breakfast in the same house. " Lodg- ings " in the London sense of the word, where the person from whom you hire the room procures and cooks for you such food as you direct her to do, is unknown in New York, except in the case of a few buildings designed for suites of wealthy bachelors, which aspect of the case does not fall within the present purpose. A very large proportion of the permanent, or at any rate habitual, residents of the city, however, dwell in rooms rented from private families, and this custom is as wide, and the rates and accommodations are as various, as the extent and diversity of the residence districts. In the crowded tenements on the East Side and south of Washington Square, squalid families who nest together in one or two dirty rooms will take " boarders ; " and so on up to the splendor of bachelor suites overlooking Central Park. It will be understood, therefore, that the requirements of any degree of economy may be met ; and for a visitor of moderate purse, who means to remain in town a fortnight or more, private lodgings are to be recom- mended. He can suit himself, without much trouble, in the district between Sixth and Eighth avenues, from 9th st. north to 20th or farther, by paying $7 to $8 a week for a room on the parlor floor (all the houses in that region are of the four-story, high-stoop pattern), and about $1 less for each story as he climbs toward the attic. Sitting-room and bedroom together will double this estimate. 44 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. The room will be neatly, perhaps elegantly, furnished, clean and well ventilated. The use of the bath, gas, and ordinary chambermaid service are included, and visitors may usually make a reasonable use of the general parlor, but fire, ice- water and other things are extras. An exact bargain as to them and everything else should be made in advance, and no promise to remain longer than from week to week ought to be conceded (though it is likely to be asked for) as you cannot foresee what your experience is to be. A reference will often be required from you; and payment for a week in advance is usually insisted upon. Your mail, if addressed to the house, will be received from the carrier at the basement door, and either taken to your room by the landlady, or, more likely, laid upon the hall table, with that of other lodgers. This may seem risky, and under certain cir- cumstances, is so; but the courts have decided that the responsibility of the Post Office ceases when the letter is properly delivered at the house, and thereafter any meddling with the mail is a misdemeanor to be treated under State laws, the same as any other larceny. It is fair to say, however, that any trouble arising from this custom is almost unknown. Caution should be observed in making friends among the lodgers or with the family of the house, not because of their lack of respecta- bility, but for fear of possible complications with persons whom you know nothing about in any other way, and to avoid the often very unpleasant results of confi- dential gossip with people whose tongues cannot be trusted. The reserve in city people, which often seems a forbidding discourtesy and coldness to open-hearted persons accustomed to the large acquaintances and amenities of village life, is really the caution acquired by hard experience ; and the stranger would do well to profit by the example. East of Union Square furnished rooms abound, and Lexington avenue is another region prolific in "furnished rooms to let." A more expensive class is to be found all along both Fifth and Madison avenues, below 34th st. and on W. 34th and W. 42d st. The morning newspapers contain long lists of descriptive adver- tisements, w hich may be followed up ; or an applicant may advertise for precisely what he wants, and probably get a dozen answers before night. But the more satisfactory way is to walk through any street that strikes your fancy, in the part of the city selected, and ask to be shown the rooms advertised, wherever you see a tiny square of inscribed paper pasted upon the jamb of the front door, which in New York is the outward expression of an inward vacancy. If you are not pleased you can repeat the quest elsewhere. Boarding Houses. — A large number of the citizens who live in furnished rooms take their meals at restaurants, or room in one house and take their meals at another. The stranger in the city would probably prefer to either of these methods finding a room at a regular boarding-house, where he may eat and sleep, under the same roof. These institutions are plentiful in all parts of the city, and ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. 45 grade imperceptibly, as their luxuries and prices increase, into the grand " family hotels " and "apartment houses " where the annual rental of a suite of rooms runs into the thousands of dollars. The boarding-houses occupied by the vast army of young men and women employed on small salaries, are all over the city. The rates of board in these houses range from $5 to $10 a week, according to the location of the house and the room occupied. Two meals a day, breakfast and dinner at night, are fur- nished, and the table is the same for all, variations in price being based solely upon the apartments occupied. They are to be looked for in the districts above noted, those on the West Side being a little more expensive, as a rule, than on the East Side, while the highest prices must be paid along Fifth av. and in the vicinity of Madison Square. Above 9th st. handsome rooms and a good table may be had in almost any street or avenue at prices ranging, for one person, from $7 to $30 a week or more, the price being still graded on the room, so that if two persons occupy one room the price is materially decreased. Prices are about the same in the best parts of Harlem, Brooklyn and Jersey City. All the caution- ary remarks under the last heading as to an exact bargain in advance, etc., apply here with equal force ; and if you are at all suspicious of a place or neighborhood, you will do well to consult the police authorities of that precinct. Baths. — At every hotel and in all of the larger barber-shops in New York a bath may be obtained, either hot, cold, or shower, with soap and towels, uni- form price is 25 cents. At the Battery are salt water swimming baths. Single bath, 25 cts. ; warm salt baths, 30 cts. ; private baths, same price. Russian, Turkish, and medicated baths are numerous and luxurious in this city. Prices of Turkish and Russian baths, from %i to $1.50 ; medicated baths, usually $3. Several however, charge only 50 or 75 cents. Some of them keep open all night. The situation of these can easily be learned from advertisements or the directory. Free baths for the poor are maintained by the city along the East River front. Restaurants. General Restaurants. — No city in the world is better supplied with restau- rants and eating-houses of every kind than New York, and a very large class of the population lives wholly at them, while the whole male half of the population, apart from the " day laborers," may be said to patronize them for the noon meal. They occur in every quarter of the city, represent every grade of excellence and cxpensiveness, and many of them have an individuality which the experienced 46 GUIDE 7V NEW YORK CITY. citizen learns and takes advantage of, — going to one place for a particular delicacy or style of meal, and to another place for a different one. The monotony that follows sitting day after day at the same kind of table, may thus be broken agreeably. The most famous restaurant in New York, and in the United States, probably, is Delmoiiico's, which is conceded to stand at the head of the list. It occupies the whole of a tall building on 26th St., running through from Fifth av., where is the main entrance to the general restaurant, to Broadway, where is the gen- tlemen's cafe. On the 26th St. side is an entrance to the ball-rooms and other special apartments on the upper floors. The restaurant pr«per is a moderately but richly fur- nishqd room looking through broad win- dows upon Fifth av. and Madison sq. It is furnished with small tables for two and also with larger round tables, where several may dine tcjgether, and is most crowded about 8 o'clock in the evening, and again after the theatres are out, when the interior presents a most brilliant appearance — none more so, however, than do several other handsome dining-rooms in the same neighborhood at that hour. The cafe in the Broadway front is a large room with a marble floor and a great number of little marble tables, where men sit smoking, drinking and taking light luncheons at all hours of the day. Upon the second floor is a series of private parlors and dining-rooms en suite, and a large and finely decorated ball-room or dining-hall. Most of the public din- ners given by societies and the like are laid in this room, and private dinner parties and balls are also arranged for persons who desire it, without care or trouble to themselves other than paying the expenses. On the upper floors are a few sleeping-rooms for gentlemen. As the cooking and service at Delmonico's are equal to anything in the world, so, it must be confessed, are the prices on his meiui. Twenty-five or twice that number of dollars is not an uncommon bill for a dinner for a party of three or four, and no one need e.xpect to dine satisfactorily for less than $3 to $5, including a simple wine. It must be remembered, however, that here, as at all other first- class restaurants, what is enough for one is enough for two. If the waiter on taking an order for two persons inquires whether you wish one portion or two, it is certain that one is enough. If the point is not raised by the waiter the inquiry should be made by the diner. Don't leave vour wife at home, therefore, when you dine at Delmonico's as a part of "seeing New York," for it is just as cheap to take her along, and the probability is that she will enjoy it more than you do. But Delmonico's is not the only elegant restaurant in New York, where per- uT ARRIVAL IN NEW YORK. 47 fectly trained service, the best cooking and handsome surroundings make the meal an asstlietic pleasure. Indeed there are goitnnands who assert that at some of these Delmonico's is surpassed. The Brunswick has a restaurant, palatial in its decora- tion and appointments, on the corner diagonally opposite from Delmonico's, where you may eat as good and expensive dinner as anywhere else in the country. The restaurant in the Hoffman House is another of equal rank, as also is Sieghortner's (German) at 18 Lafayette Place, and some small and exclusive places far up town. Scarcely inferior in service or price are the restaurants attached to the St. James, Victoria, Coleman, Gilsey, Bartholdi, Parker's, Murray Hill, Normandie and sev- eral other Broadway hotels. Somewhat more moderate are tlie prices at the Astor, St. Denis, the famous Taylor's Restaurant, Gedney, Grand Union, Ashland, Barrett and others of that class. Very satisfactory dinners may be obtained for from $1 to $2 (for two persons, and not much less for one alone) at a large class of restaurants represented by the Metropolitan, Sinclair, Continental, Grand Union and Royal hotels, and by such detached restaurants as Moquin's (20 Fulton St.) ; Clark's (22 \V. 23d st.) ; O'Neill's and Bristol's in Sixth av near 21st st. ; the Vienna Bakery, Broadway and 10th sts., Purssell's, Broadway, near 20th st and on 42d St. opposite New Haven depot; Central Cafe, W 14th st. near Macy's, Nash & Brush's in Park Place, near Church st., and at many others of about the same appearance. Inferior in grade, and classified by the fact that only 5 cents is ciiarged for a cup of coffee, are a long list of restaurants, especially aljundant in the neighborhood of the Post Otifice, the principal ferries, and along Third, Sixth and Eighth avs., one of which, the Dairy Kitchen on Union sq., is something of a curiosity for its size, its music and its methods ; Smith & McNeil's, opposite Washington Market, is said to furnish more meals each 24 hours than any other eating house in town. These grade down into the cheapest and dirtiest form of eating houses in the poor quarters of town and along the water-fronts, and to the all night coffee-and-cake saloons that cluster in the Bowery, around the markets, and near the great newspaper offices where the city never sleeps. Oyster saloons are common everywhere, the most prominent of which are .Schaef- fer & Dorlon's in Fulton Market ; Dorlon's on 23d st. east of Broadway, Stewart's in Third av. near 14th, Silsbee's in Sixth av. near 14th, O'Neill's and Bristol's in Si.xth av. just below 23d, and Clark's in Sixth av. near 30th. The last named will be found most crowded between i and 3 A. M. " English chop houses " are adver- tised on many signs, but are only an imitation of such as you find in London, — why, it is hard to say. A writer familiar with both cities has lately asserted that to all American women and most men the merits of a "grill" are unknown. " Chops," he says, " mean to most Americans a bone scraped quite white, with a small piece of scalloped paper at one end and a morsel of thin, tasteless meat at the other. The chop proper, however, is 3 fine large gqt fron^ the loin, ^r( jnc}) 48 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. and a quarter tliick, well outlined with firm white fat, and having a good-sized tenderloin, as rich and juicy as it is tender." A very good imitation of this, with accompaniments copied from English models can be had at " Old Tom's " in Thames St., in the rear of Trinity Church ; Farrish's, in John St., near William ; Hopcraft's, 57 Franklin st. ; Brown's, 27th st., near Broadway ; '"The Studio" and "Knickerbocker Cottage" in Sixth av. The prices are moderate, and each of these places — especially the ones down town — has a well-simulated air of antiquity which attracts customers of consequence. The last three being in the theatre district, are the resort of actors, journalists and noted men-about-town for a bit of supper and a mug of ale at midnight, and often they see very enter- taining company. Ladies are not supposed to go to the chop houses. Their favorite luncheon- places, when shopping, are the St. Denis, the Vienna Cafe, where in summer they cat alfresco under the vineclad, bush-shaded bower in front of the door ; the Dairy Kitchen, South Union sq. ; the Central Cafe and Macy's, 14th st. and Sixth av. ; the Jefferson Dining Rooms, Sixth av. near 13th st. ; The Continental hotel, Clark's and Dorlon's near Madison sq., Purssell's, Delmonico's and the St. James. Hundreds of women, and many men, whose appetites, or purses, or both, are light, drop into any one of the many little bakeries and confectioner's shops which abound on the side streets, and get a cup of tea and a few cakes or buns, or a sandwich, for 10 or 15 cents, or a plate of ice cream for as much more, and call it luncheon. This is a *' pomter " for ladies who do not want an expensive meal and yet are repulsed by the soiled table-cloths, heavy ware and rough ways generally of the cheaper class of eating houses. The clerks and business men down town may find a restaurant to suit them on nearly every block, from the quiet elegance of Delmonico's old stand in Beaver st. or the cheerful clamor of the Astor House rotunda, to the subterranean lunch-counters where a struggle goes on like that of feeding a lot of half-starved wolves. A few years ago a class of restaurants called dairies sprang up in the region below the Post Office which met with great success. They make milk and bread in a great variety of forms the standard nourishment, adding some simple desserts and pastries, and always berries and fruit in season. They are nearly all located between Broadway and the East River, below News- paper Square. All the restaurants heretofore spoken of are types of those where you eat ct la carte, that is, choose what you want from a bill of fare and pay for it by the piece ; an order for meat, however, includes, as a rule, a fair proportion of bread and butter, some simple preparation of potatoes, and often a condiment, such as pickles. There is, however, a class of restaurants which, while they will cook "to order " a meal a la carte, offer at certain hours (generally 5 to 8 P. M ) a " regular " dinner table d'hote, where you have only a small range of choice, and pay a fixed ARRIVAL nV NEW YORK 49 sum langing from $1 50 at the Brunswick to 15 cents in Chatliam sq. The best and usual table d'/iofe dinners are those set by the Italian and French restaurants, of which New York has many excellent examples. Excellent dinners of five courses and accompanied by a pint bottle of fair claret, may thus be obtained at Martinelli's, 136 Fifth av.. at $1.25 ; Morello's, 29th st. east of Broadway, at $1.25 ; and Moretti's, in 21st st east of Broadway, at $1, each including wine. These are all Italian. In Third av.. near loth St., Colombo gives a good and essentially Neo- ]5olitan dinner, with Chianti, for 75 cts. ; while in Fourth av. 50 cent Italian dinners are to be had. At the Hotel Hungaria, at the southeast corner of Union Square a dinner much favored by actors and musicians may be bought for 75 cts., with Hungarian wines at moderate rates L'Antelme's, in the next block above, is good. In the neighborhood of Washington sq. French restaurants abound. The Hotel St. Martin gives a capital dinner without wine at $1 ; but in 8th, 4th and Bleecker sts. several neat little restaurants, such as the Giffou, Vattel's and May's, offer an evening /ah.'d ci'hdte, with good red or white wine, for 50 cts. Of these, May's, in Bleecker St., one door west of Wooster, and near the station of the Sixth Av. El. Ry., is a great favorite with journalists, artists and young authors. It is in a queer little basement room, and is a bit of the student's quarter of Paris brought bodily to New York. Ladies go — but rarely alone — to all of these restau- rants ; and the most crowded hour is from 6:30 to 7:30. Other queer little places, where, as usual, the proprietor is cook and comes in his white cap and apron to smoke a cigarette and ask you how you like your fare, are Vianest's and DeLisle's in Fulton st. just below William ; and there are others, but more conventional, like Lazard's in W. 25th st. near Sixth av., and Jacquin, 456 Sixth av. Many excellent German restaurants are scattered all over the East Side, in Harlem and in Second av. ; while many small, but decent ones are scattered all along the East Side streets. They give German cooking and delicacies, beer is an invariable accompaniment, and often a beer saloon is a part of a really excel- lent and thoroughly respectable eating room. Such are the " kellers " common below 14th St. which are thronged with men at luncheon time, and serve a table d^ hdte luncheon, with an elaborate bill of fare to select from in addition, if you pre- fer less or more than the " regular " meal. The most prominent of these German restaurants probably, is the RathsTveller in the basement of the Staats-Zeitzmg building, opposite the entrance to Brooklyn Bridge. The Post Keller, northwest corner Broadway and Barclay st. ; Hollender's at the corner of Chambers st ; two or three in Church st. near Park Place; and one on the northeast corner of Broad- way and Canal st. are worth mention — all in basements. Eckstein's, East 4th st. is a fair sample of a cheaper and more familj^-like kind of restaurant, where every evening, among a lot of jolly Germans, a table full of well-known artists may be seen making merry at an average cost for dinner of perhaps 60 cents. 50 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Nearly all the bakeries of the city are in the hands of Germans. Going still farther eastward you may try, if you please, Hebrew eating-houses, Russian and Polish restaurants (in Division St.), until along East River you strike again the Irish-American "hash-house." Down in Mulberry st. (No. i8) is a full-fledged Chinese restaurant, elsewhere spoken of; and in the unsavory and ill-chosen purlieus of Cherry st. is one managed by Jaj^anese, and furnished with their food and drinks. Fees to Waiters. — The bad habit of " tipping " waiters is spreading, unfortu- nately, in New York. At the high-class restaurants, where the waiters are mostly foreigners, the custom almost amounts to an obligation — especially at the French tabic d^/iSte places. The fee for an ordinary meal ought not to exceed lo cents anywhere short of Delmonico's and the Brunswick where 25 cents at least will be expected, but never demanded (except at Coney Island) as is the case in Europe. Where one is going repeatedly to the same restauraiit and same table the "nimble sixpence " will make things more pleasant for him ; but in taking a single meal here and there nothing need be given to the waiter unless your generosity freely prompts it. The custom ought not to be encouraged. III. GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. IN spite of the multitudinous surface-cars, elevated railways, suburban steam roads, bridges, steam-boats and ferries, not to speak of carriages and cabs. New York finds herself continually in want of new methods of transit from one part of the city to the other, and to the neighboring cities. This is due not only to the enormously rapid growth of the city in population, but to the consequent spread of her purely commercial area, and the entailed necessity of living at a distance from one's place of business. Moreover the long and narrow shape of the island compels the great mass of travel to be back and forth in the same direction ; and morning and night all the public conveyances up and down town are over-crowded, so that more are earnestly needed. A few words in regard to the various ways of getting about the city will be appropriate. Elevated Railways. General Remarks. — The system of elevated railroads, which carry trains of cars drawn by steam locomotives, now consists of four main double-track lines, and a few short branches. All come together at the southern extremity of the island in a terminal station at South Ferry (see Ferries) alongside the Battery. Two lines are on the West Side and two on the East; and all reach to the Har- lem river, one (the "Suburban") continuing beyond, through Motthaven and Morrisania, to ijzd st. These trains run at intervals of one or two minutes (or even less, during the busiest hours of morning and evening) all the day and even- ing ; but the Ninth av. line does not run after nine o'clock at night, and from midnight to sunrise the intervals between trains are from seven to fifteen minutes. Strangers should be careful to note the sign at the foot of the station-stairs, which informs them whether that station is for " up-town " or " downtown " trains ; but if they forget and find themselves on the wrong side, they will be passed in free at the opposite station if they explain the case to the gateman where the mistake is made. The fare on all roads and for all distances is 5 cents. A ticket must be bought and thrown into the gateman's glass " chopper " box at the entrance to the platform. On the West Side, certain trains going down town, take the Ninth Av. 52 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. route, while others go via Sixth av. ; others proceed only as far as Cortlandt or Rector streets, instead of going to the ferry. Up-tovvn West Side trains go both to Harlem and 58th st. (Central Park). On the East Side, going down, some trains go to South Ferry and others to the City Hall ; and up-town, both Second and Third av. trains use the same track from the Battery to Chatham sq., and must be distinguished. The gatemen usually call out the destination of each train as it approaches, but any one may quickly learn to recognize the signals on the locomotives, and should ask, if in doubt ; and the confusion is really not as great as it appears to be. All of the roads are now consolidated and under the single ownership and management of the Manhattan Railway Co., whose general offices are at No. 7 1 Broadway. The busiest line is the Third Avenue ; the most comfortable and cleanest cars are those on the Sixth Avenue. Stations down town are at intervals of about five blocks ; those up town, about half a mile apart. Any article lost or left in the cars or stations is taken to the "Lost Property Ofifice," at No. i Water st. (near the Battery) and can be reclaimed upon proof of ownership satisfactory to the clerks in charge. The Ninth Avenue Line is the oldest, a part of it having been constructed as early as 1S70. It extends from the Battery up Greenwich st., passing Washington Market and overlookmg much of the North River water-front, and has stations close to Liberty, Desbrosses and Christopher st. ferries. At West 14th st. it swings into Ninth av. and runs along it to 59th st. where it joins the Sixth Av. line. Its upper stations are at 14th, 23d, 34th, 42d, 50th and 59th streets. Sixth Avenue Line. — This is the main West Side line. From South Ferry it skirts Battery Park (q. v.) to Battery Place, which is the station for the Coney Island and other steamboats that sail from pier i, N. R. ; and for the Field Building, Produce Exchange, foreign consulates, steamship offices, and lower Broadway generally. (See A Tour of the City.) The course is then up New Church St., a name derived from the fact that it passes directly in the rear of Trinity and St. Paul's over ground once owned by Trinity parish. Tenements on the left — among whose inhabitants is a colony of Arabs — and the rear of express offices and the large buildings on Broadway are seen. Rector st. is the station for Wall St., Trinity Church and neighboring buildings. Trinity churchyard is next overlooked, and a glimpse of lower Broadway obtained on the right. Cortlandt st. is the station for Jersey City and Communiijaw ferries (see Ferries), for the Glen Island boats, Washington Market, and for the Coal and Iron E.xchange, Fulton St. and Maiden Lane, the W. U. Telegraph, Equitable and Herald build- ings, and St. Paul's church. This street and the next (Dey) were named after owners of the properties through which they were laid out, 125 years ago. St. Paul's church, and the graveyard in front of it (it is the rear of this church which GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. S3 abuts on iSioadway) are seen on the right after leaving Corthindt St.; and just beyond is the massive temple of St. Peter's on the site of the oldest R. C. church in New York (see Churches). Pa7-k Place, next stop, is the station for Newspaper sq., the Post Office, City Hall, Court House and Brooklyn Bridge. The line now turns one block west through Murray st. (the sharpest railway curve in the world) to the station at Cliafiibers st., where you alight for the Fall River and Providence steamboat lines, and Pavonia (Erie R. R.) ferry. The streets from Fulton to Chambers on this west side of Broadway, were cut through "the King's Farm " and named after prominent rectors and officers of Trinity parish, its owner, except Warren st., which commemorates Sir Peter Warren, commander of the British naval forces on this station after the Revolution, who married a daughter of the Delancey's here. The Cosmopolitan hotel, and the lofty whole- sale grocery warehouses of Thurber & Co., Legget & Co., and others, are concen- trated in this neighborhood. The- course is next up West Broadway through the wholesale grocery and dry goods district. Franklin, Grand and Bleecker are the street-stations, the last in the French quarter and close to Washington Square. Turning west through Amity St., the line is carried over to the foot of Sixth av., and its next station, at Eighth st., is under the shadow of Jefferson Market and the clock-tower of the attached police court and prison. (See Courts, etc.) Fourteenth st. is the next station, with Macy's famous bazaar, Union sq. and the Fourteenth Street Theatre just at hand. Ladies crowd the platform here, and also at Eighteenth St., which is near the busiest shopping districts of Sixth av. and Broadway. At the Tzventythird st. station are Ehrich's store on Sixth av., the Grand Opera House (2 blocks west) and the long line of West 23d st. shops and publishing houses. Proctor's and Koster & Bial's theatres and the Eden Musee; the Masonic Temple (the great grey building shadowing the station) and the hotels and theatres around Madison sq., are one block east. Twenty-eighth st. is the station for the Fifth Avenue, Palmer's, and Daly's theatres, Delmonico's and the many hotels just above Madison sq. The Thirty-third st. station stands at the diagonal crossing of Broadway, and permits a view down that street (to the right) as far as Grace Church (loth st.) and up to the yellow cube of the Metropolitan Opera House at 39th st. This is the station for 34th st. ; for the Standard, New Park and Bijou theatres ; for " Murray Hill " and " upper " Broadway ; and for the very shady district west of Sixth av. between 26th and 34th sts. Sixth av. above 34th st. is a long series of comparatively small stores and factories, over many of which are "flats." Bryant Park, named after the poet, containing a colossal bronze bust of Washington Irving, and always full of little children, breaks the monotony at 40th St.; behind it stands the grim wall of the distributing reservoir on Fifth av. At the station at Forty-second st. passengers alight for the Grand Central Depot, two blocks {%m\\Q) eastward, and for the horsecars to the 54 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. West Shore RR., \)i miles west. The Casino, the Metropolitan Opera House, the Broadway Theatre and the cluster of hotels around the crossing of Broadway and W. 42d st. ; the principal clubs ; the Fifth Avenue Baptist, Temple Emanu-el, Heavenly Rest, Holy Trinity, and Divine Paternity churches on Fifth av., are within easy walking distance. The Elfticth st. station is the one for the Windsor and Buckingham hotels, Columbia University, St. Luke's Hospital, St. Thomas's and Dr. Vermilye's Ref. Dutch churches, the R. C. Cathedral, and the Vanderbilt houses — all on or near Fifth av. Here passengers for Central Park change cars, unless they are on a Central Park train, which will carry them straight ahead to Fifty-eigJith st. and a Park entrance. The Harlem trains turu westward and pass through 53d st. (with a station at Eighth Avc'iuie), to Ninth av., where the line again turns northward up Ninth av. The station at 'Fifty- ninth st. is close by the Roose- velt Hospital. Soon after leaving it Broadway, now trending northwestward toward its continuation in the Boulevard, is again crossed, and the armory of the 12th Reg't. '° '' IS passed on the left at 62d St., while on the light glimpses are got of the Cen- lal Park, and of the tall apartment houses o\erlooking it, nearest and oldest of which IS the enormous gable-roofed Dakota flats on Eighth av. The Sev- e}ity-si'co!!d St. station is the place to alight for a half-mile walk west to the lower end of Riverside Park; it is opposite an entrance to Central Park, and in a quarter becoming a district of very handsome residences, where General Sherman and many distinguished citi zens now dwell. Just before reaching the Eighty-first st. station the American Museum of Natural History and another Park entrance (see Parks) are passed. The castle-like structure far off at the right is the " Belvidere," on an eminence in Central Park; and at the left spaces of the Hudson appear, dotted with shipping. The stations at 93^/ st. and 104/// st. are surrounded by costly and often elegant houses, all built within a very few years, save here and there a conspicuous relic of the rural past; and by lofty apartment houses which it will interest a vis- itor to see. The track is here at a considerable height above the pavement, but at iioth St. it turns eastward to Eighth av. and then turns up that avenue upon an iron trestle-work which DeLesseps is said to have been amazed at as an example SIXTH AV. EL. RY. AT IIOTK ST. GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 55 of audacious engineering. Tiie ground is low here, and the track is carried across it on a level with the fifth-story windows of the houses. This makes necessary an elevator to reach the station platform at wdth st. A wide area of the city (Har- lem) is now under view toward the east and north, arid the upper end of Central Park appears as a green grove a short distance away on the right. On the left are the ornamental stairways of Morningside Park, and farther and higher the pillared front of the Leake and Watts Orphan Asylum, on whose site the Anglican Cathedral is soon to be erected, while in the distance are seen the groves and roofs of the great Bloomingdale Asylum, and the mansions on the heights overlooking the Hudson. A few blocks beyond, St. Nicholas av., the ancient country road to King's Bridge and Albany, is crossed diagonally, the density of the population increases, and the next stop is in a lofty station 2X Harlem {IV. 125^/; jA), where the busy appearance of a down-town avenue meets the eye. Change here for the cable road to Riverside Park, Ft. Lee ferry and High Bridge. Rocky ridges, market gardens, and remnants of shanty-town diversify the dead level and uniformity of graded streets beyond, es]:iecially at the left, where the ground rises into a long ridge called Washington Heights, which is an exceedingly handsome part of the city. Near 135//^ st. station is the great R. C. Convent of the Sacred Heart. The engine-houses and shops of the company are at the 145/// st. or Carmanstiille station; and half a mile beyond it the terminus is reached at 155/// st. Here is the Harlem river, and the carriage bridge at the right is on the site of the old Macomb's Dam, where the last generation of turfmen were wont to speed their horses. In this neighborhood are a number of large picnic grounds, dancing halls and beer-gardens, which in summer are liberally patronized. The stairways lead up to the level of Washington Heights, and to the Edgecombe Road, which leads to High Bridge reservoir and park; and the lofty arches of the aqueduct itself can be seen up the river. This station is the terminus of the Northern New York R. R. which goes northward into W^estchester county some 40 miles ; by it are reached (within the city limits) High Bridge, Berkeley Oval (athletic grounds) Morris Dock, Ford- hani Heights, Kingsbridgeville, and Van Cortlaiidt, — the last named the station for the great Van Cortlandt park and lake, where the best skating in this part of the state is obtainable, whenever there is ice anywhere. Trains runs every few minutes, especially on Sundays. The through time from South ferry to Central Park by the Sixth av. line, is 28 minutes; to 155th st. one hour. The Third Avenue Line runs from South Ferry along Water st. to Jeanette Park, where fruit vessels and canal-boats are numerous, and where a broad expanse of the bu.sy East River and the front of Brooklyn are overlooked. It then 56 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. turns ill among the shipping offices, drug and tobacco houses and factories of Pearl st., among which still stands at Broad and Pearl, the Fraunces Tavern, where Washington took leave of jiis officers in December, 1783; and makes its first stop at Hanoz'er Square, the station for Wall St., the Custom House (the back corner of which is seen up a narrow street at the left) and the commercial exchanges generally. Winding on through narrow Pearl St., Fulton st. is next reached, close to Fulton Ferry and Market ; the ingenuity with which a portion of the old United States Hotel has been converted into entrances and station rooms, securing a platform in the narrow street, is worth attention. At Franklin Square, the next station, you are right under the approach to the Brooklyn Bridge. This " square " at the end of the last century was the most fashionable quarter of the city, and on the ground now covered by the bridge approach and the square itself were the mansion and gardens of the wealthy and highly connected Walter Franklin family, opening down to the water. It was in a house on this square that Washington and his family dwelt and held official receptions subsequent to his inauguration as President in 1789. (See illustrated magazines for April and May, 1889.) Up to that time lower Pearl st., through which the train has just passed, held the homes of many aristocratic families, who, before the Revolution, had been accustomed to give \.\\t pas in fashion, such as the De Lanceys, Livingstons, Morrisses, Bayards, De Peysters, Congers," and so on. This is the station for the steamboats to New Haven, Hartford, Bridge- port and the eastern end of Long Island; for the Charleston steamers (Peck Slip) ; for the Police Gazette, and for the publishing house of Harper & Brothers, whose great, iron-fronted buildings are closely skirted by the train. Just west of Franklin sq. and south of the bridge is the leather-sellers' district, still known as " the swamp " ever since the days when it was a brush-hidden morass on Wm. Beeckman's farm, and was surrounded by the ill-smelling vats and yards of his tanneries, whence descended its present occupation. From Franklin sq. up the New Bowery the train passes through the rough region of the Fourth Ward. On the right are seen the remnant of an old Jewish Cemetery, where Joe Jefferson played as a boy (see his " Autobiography "), many queer old streets, full of Irish tenements, which a century and less ago were the abode of gentility, and picturesque views of the Brooklyn Bridge. Chatham Square is the busiest elevated station in New York. Here the branch from the City Hall comes in and the Second Avenue line begins. There are two platforms, and passengers should be careful to learn whether they do not need to change cars here to reach their destination. 'Phe station almost covers the upper part of the "square," which is formed by the intersection of several streets, and is described elsewhere. It is a crowded, noisy spot, surrounded by streets full of factories and tenement hou.ses filled with foreign laborers. The Five Points and GETTING ABOUT 7'HE CITY. 57 Chinese quarter are only a block or two west, Chatham st. (now Park Row) leads south to the City Hall, and the Bowery begins here. It is northward, up the Bowery, that the Third Av. line proceeds. The pillared front of the Old Bowery Theatre (now the " Thalia ") is passed immediately upon the left near Canal st. sta- tion. Then comes an almost continuous row of theatres, dime museums, cheap lodg- ing houses and numberless small shops, while the din of the traffic is tremendous. At Grand st. station, the principal shopping street of the East Side is crossed; and the horse-cars to the Williamsburg (Brooklyn, E. D.) ferry. Houston st. is the next station, and the one for Police Headquarters, for horse-cars westward to North River ferries, and eastward into the heart of the great East Side tenement and small factories district, the home of the German, Jewish, Russian, and Bohe- mian population of wage-workers. Before reaching the next station {Ninth st.) the Cooper Union appears ahead as a tall brown building looking down the Bowery. Fourth av. diverges on the left side of it, and on this side the train enters Third av. by a slight curve. Ninth st. is the station for the Bible Plouse, Cooper Union and Astor and Mercantile libraries ; Lafayette Place, the book selling district of Broadway, Denning's and Daniell's stores, St. Mark's church, the Baptist Tabernacle and lower Second av. It stands on ground which was once a part of old Stuyvesant's farm. The \\th st. station is close by Union sq. the Academy of Music, the Star, Amberg and Tony Pastor's theatres, and Stuy- vesant sq. At 18/// st. is a station and another at 2i,d st., the latter convenient to the Y. M. C. A., .Academy of Design, Art League and Madison sq. Near the 2?,th St. station are St. Stephen's R. C, and the Rose Hill M. E. churches — the latter recalling the fact that this region was once the fine Rose Hill farm of Maj.-Gen. Gates. 34/// st. is the station for the Long Island R. R. and Manhattan Beach, and a branch road (no extra charge) leads down to the Hunters' Point ferry. At 42d st. the next station, another branch (no charge) leads to the Grand Central Depot. 'l"he next stop is at 53^/ st. (ferry to Biackwell's Island). The ^cjfh st. station is unimportant, but at 67/// st. alight for the Lenox Hospital and Library, the Normal College and the Central Park menagerie. The 76/// st. station has near it many charitable institutions; and the next station, 84^/; st., is the one for the Metro- politan Museum of Art and the Obelisk (see Central Park). The whole remaining course up Third av. calls for little remark. The street is the old Boston road, made straight and populous. For the whole of its six miles it is solidly built up with a continuous line of retail shops, restaurants, etc., over which are lofty tenements inhabited by well-to-do and respectable people, largely of the German nationality. Along Third av., the Bowery, Park Row and Broadway a continuous line of business runs from Harlem River to the Battery, a distance, thus measured, of nearly ten miles ; yet this is only one of the great city's street-s. The stations at 89M st., 98/// sf., ]o()l/i st. and i\6t/i s(, are iu " Har- 58 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. leiii," whose main east and west thoroughfare is reached at 125/// st., where a cable-car can be taken westward to the Sixth Av. El. Ry., and on to Wasiiington Heights. Tiie line continnes, however, to the baiik of the Harlem at 129/// st., where passengers going further north, change to the cars of the Suburban Kl. Ry. which carries them through North New York and Morrisania, as far as I72d st. The Second Avenue Line does not need much description. It begins at Chathaiii Square, and passes thence northward through Division, Allen, and First and Second avs. to the Harlem River, where it connects with the terminus of the Suburban road spoken of above. It goes at first through the heart of the densely populated Jewish, Russian and German quarters, and gives an interesting outside view of their existence in the tall and crowded tenements of the region between Chatham Square and East 14th st. Its stations are, successively, Chatham Stjuarc, Caual St., Grand St., {xv&zx Essex Market and Police Court), Rivingto/i j-/., (near Allen St. M. E. church) Houston st., St. Jllar/c's Place (near Tompkins sq.), 14/// st., igth St., 2y{ St. (where the road turns from First into Second av., and which is the station for Bellevue Hospital, and the ferry to Blackwell's, Ward's and Randall's islands), 34^// st.. Long Island R. R., and Manhattan Beach), \2d st., 50/// st., ^jth St., 65/// St., -jofh St., i^th St., 80/// St., 86/// st., ()2d st., (Astoria ferry) 105/// st., iiith St., i\6th St., \20th St., I2^th St., and the Harlem River terminus. Second av. as a street, is similar to Third av., except that it is much less devoted to business and in its upper part is less solidly built up, and has many large factories, gas-works, etc. along it near the river. When the city was a good deal younger than now, a fav- orite drive led along the course of this street, where "over a tell-tale little brook that listened and then ran away to blab to the East River, at our present 54th St., was the Kissing Bridge. " At this point the etiquette of Gotham's forefathers exacted of the gentleman driving the ' Italian Chaise,' or sleigh of highest fashion, 'a salute to the lady who had put herself under his protection.'" From the cars of this line a good view of Hell Gate and the East River, generally is obtained, and of the islands with then- penitentiaries and charitable institutions. The time between Chatham sq. and Harlem is about 35 minutes. City Hall Branch. — It only remains to mention that an elevated Ry. station stands at the New York terminus of the Brooklyn Bridge, beside the City Hall, and near to the Post Office. Alternate trains on the Third av. go thither without change; from the Second av. line change at Chatham sq. Trains outward from the City Hall go up Third av. and change at Chatham sq. for the Second Av. line. There is direct communication between the platforms of the El. Ry. at this station and that of the Bridge cars. Horse- Car Routes. Tramways, or " street-cars," as they are universally known in this city, are a very old institution in New York, and seem to do ciuite as large a business as they GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 59 did before the elevated roads were built, though their passengers ride, on the average, shorter distances than before. The fare everywhere is five cents. Only one line — that on 125th st. and up to Fort George — is run by the cable-system, but the Third Av. Company is about to change its road into a cable line ; and the Broadway Company proposes to do the same thing. All lines run cars all night, at intervals of not more than twenty minutes. North and South Lines. — Horse-cars run north and south on Broadway from the Battery (South Ferry) to Central Park; along both river-fronts (Belt Line) and from the Post Office up every numbered avenue, except Fifth, to Harlem. Cross-town lines exist, as follows (see Ferries) : Blecckcr St. Liiu- : Between Fulton and West 23d st. ferries, via the Post Office, Broadway, Bleecker st.. Ninth av., etc. Av. C. Line : Between Erie R. R. ferry, foot of Chambers St., N. R., and East 23d St. (Greenpoint) ferry and neighborhood to East 42d st. via Prince st. (going east) and Houston st. (going west); a branch reaches loth st. ferry, E. R., to Greenpoint. Transfers with the Broadway line. Christopher and Tenth St. Line : Between Hoboken ferry, foot of Christopher St., N. R., and 10th st. ferry, E. R. (to Greenpoint), via 8th st., etc. Central Crosstmun R. R.: Between Christopher st. (Hoboken) ferry and East 23d St. (Greenpoint) ferry, via 14th and East iSth sts. (going west, through East 17th St.), etc. Desltrosses, Vestry and Grand St. Line: Between Desbrosses st. (Jersey City) ferry, N. R. and Grand st. (Williamsburg) ferry, E. R., via Grand St., etc. Union Sq. Line: Between Christopher st. (Hoboken) ferry and Union sq. via West 14th St., etc. ; also by branch to foot of West 14th st. Chambers St. Line : Between Chambers st. (Erie R. R.) ferrv, N. R., and James Slip (ferry to Hunter's Pt. L. L R. R.) ; also between Erie R. R. ferry and foot of Grand st, E. R., (Williamsburg ferry). Transfers with the Broadway line. Forty-s^eond and Grand St. Line: An extremely useful line, distinguished by its green cart, between West 42d st. (West Shore R. R. or Weehawken) ferry and Grand st. E. R. ( Williamsburg) ferry, via Grand, etc. East 14th St., Union sq., Fourth av. and East 23d St., Madison sq., Broadway, West 34th, Tenth av. and West 42CI St. (eastward, by a reversal of the same route). E.Vi'y-second St. and Bonlevard Line: Between East 34th st. (Hunter's Point) terry and Fort Lee Ferry, West 129th st., via 42d st. and the Boulevard; also betvveen foot of East 34th st. and foot of West 42d st. Another branch crosses the city on iiOth st. Grand and Cortlandt si. Line: Between Grand st. (Williamsburg) ferry, E. R. and Cortlandt st- (Jersey City) ferry, N. R., crossing Broadway at Canal st. Iwenty-third St. aild Erie Ferry Line: Crosses from river to river along 23d st. ; also, by a branch, between foot Oi West 23d st. (Erie R. R. Ferry) and East 34th St. (L. L R. R.) Harlem and Manhattanville {Cable) line: Between East I-iiver, at 125th st. and the North River at Fort Lee ferry (West 129th st. via 125th st.) ; branch (transfer tickets) from cor. Tenth av. and 129th st. to 187th St., Was'iington Heights. Some other short lines and branches exist, which hardly require mention for the 6o GUIDE TU NEW YORK CITY. purposes of this guide. In a general way it may be said tiiat any part of the city can be reached by horse-cars without more than one change. Stages. — The great white " stages " or omnibuses, which used to be so char- acteristic a feature of Broadway disappeared with the advent of the Broadway street-cars. A line of modern, low-hung, and easy-riding stages now runs u]j Fifth av. from Bleecker st. to and along the eastern side of Central Park to 841)1 St., affording a direct carriage to the Lenox Library and Metropolitan Museum of Art. In summer a number of these stages are run, which, like those in Paris, have seats upon the roof, and they are crowded, especially in the early evening with sight seers and pleasure-takers. (See Tour.) Suburban Transit. The Annexed District (north of Marlem River) is traversed by several lines of horse-cars, especially on the East Side ; has the Suburban El. Ry. from the Harlem River at the head of Second av. to iy2d st., with stations at Enst 133^/, ijSf/i, 14^/, lipt/i, i6ot/i, (Me/rose) i66th and 1721/ streets (fare 5 cents) ; and is penetrated by the New Haven, Harlem, Northern New York and Hudson River railroads. Trains on the main line of the New York, New Haven and Hartford R. K. make no stop below Williamsbridge, near the northern limit of the city, but its " Har- lem branch " passes along the Sound coast, through Port Morris, to Pelham, etc. The stations of the Northern New York line, from the terminus of the Sixth Av. El. Ry., at 155th st. and Eighth av. have already been given. The stations within the city limits, served by the Harlem K. R. are as follows, with distance fi- Grand Central Depot, and single fare : Eighty-sixth st 2^ miles One hundred and Tenth st 3^ miles Harlem) 125th st.) 4'4^ miles . Motthaven (138th St.). .. 5 miles Melrose 6 miles Morrisania 7 miles Central Morrisania 7 j^ miles Tremont. 7|4^ miles. . -ts. Fordham (Jerome Pk.) 8^' mil'- ^ cts. Bedford Park 9)^ ' ... 20 cts. Williamsbridge i^ 22 cts. Woodlawn 25 cts. The following stations are '■ (■;■ R. R., either from the station at 30th st. and Tentl .vi Central Depot ; those reached more directly from the Crai .mted in Italics: Manhattanville (W. 125th 12 cts. West I52d st, ., ,,,..., ., 14 cts, GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 6i Fort Washington i6 cts. Inwood 20 cts. High Bridge -]% miles 10 cts. Morris Dock 8>^ miles 15 cts. King's Bridge 10 miles 15 cts. Spuyten Duyvil ....11^ miles 22 cts. Riverdale 12^ miles 24 cts. Mt. St. Vincent 13^ miles 26 cts. ferries. The situation of the city upon an island with railroad termini and populous cities along the opposite shores of both rivers, and an immense exchange of popu- lation morning and evening between the city and the suburbs, gives the system of ferries a peculiar prominence here. Those to Brooklyn, though most numerous and rapid, would have proved inadequate to the needs of the service, ere this, had they not been re- ~^-' " '~-^-;^. lieved by the build- i n g of the E. R. bridge- Even now their boats run as often, and are as well filled, as is safe. At all the ferries, passengers are admitted to the house by purchasing a ticket and dropping it in the gateman's box ; when a boat has come in, the passengers are .,^_ discharged before the doors are opened to admit the «5- " i^6^-A.- outgoing crowd. The boats are all double-enders, and the FERRY boat. pilot goes from one wheelhouse to the other as he changes his trips back and forth. On one side is a women's cabin, and on the other a men's ; no man of decent behavior is refused admittance to the ladies' cabin, but smoking is not permitted on that side of the boat. The usual fare on the boats to Brooklyn is 2 cents, but only one cent is charged between 5 and 7 a. m., and ^Yz and 7^ p. m., when the laboring population go back and forth. The upper East River ferries, and the North River boats charge 3 cents, with no hours of reduced rale. In all cases a package of tickets is sold at a reduced rate. Many of the ferries afford pleasant rides and an excellent opportunity to see the water-front ; while some are of considerable length, especially those to Staten Islandj.tp South Brooklyn, 62 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. from James Slip E. R. to Hunter's Point, and from 23d St., N. R., to Jersey City. " South Ferry " is now a general term applied to the group of ferries (to Staten and other islands, and to South Brooklyn) near the Battery, where the elevated roads terminate. All the ferries are reached by horse-cars and most of them have cross-town lines connecting them with ferries on the opposite river. The two oldest ferries in the city are Fulton and Cortlandt ; but a large amount of inter- esting history and legendary lore, and a great picturesqueness clusters about all of them. Following is an alphabetical list of the city ferries, with landings and running times : Atlantic A v. or South ferry (see Brooklyn). Astoria. — From 92d st., E. R. to Astoria, every 15 min. during the day, and half-hourly from 7 to 12.15 midnight. Bedloe's Island. — From the barge-office pier, at the Battery, every hour, alter- nately from 6.10 a. m. to 7.30 p. m. To Liberty Statue. Blackwell's Island.— From 26th st., E. R., to Blackwell's Island, 10.30 a. m. 1-30, 3-30 p. m. (no 3.30 p. m. on Saturday). — From 52d St., E. R., hourly, 6 a. m. to 12 m. ; then every 30 minutes to 7 p. m., by pass only. — From 76th St., 6.30 and 7 a. m., then hourly till 10 p. m., and 12 midnight — pass only. No trips on Sunday. — Row boats at all times. Brooklyn. — From Catharine st. to Main st., every 10 min. to 9. p. m. ; then every 20 min. to 4 a. m.. El. Ry. station, Franklin sq. — From Fulton st. to Fulton St., every 10 min. from 4 a. m. to 5 p. m. ; then every 5 min. to 7 ; then every 10 min. to 12 p. m. ; then every 15 min. to 4 a. m., El. Ry. station, Fulton st. — From Wall st. to Montague st. every 10 min., 6 a. m. to 9 p. m. No trips on Sunday. El. Ry. station, Hanover sq. — From Whitehall st. (terminus elevated railways) to Atlantic st., every 12 min. from 4 a. m. to 8 p. m. ; then every 15 min to 10 p. m. ; then every 30 min. to 4 a. m. — From W^hiteliall st. to Hamilton av., every 10 min. from 5 a. m. to 7.30 p. m. ; then every 15 min. to 10 p. m. ; then every 30 min. to 5 a. m. — From Whitehall st. to foot of 39th st., South Brooklyn, every half-hour from 6.30 a. m. to 10.30 p. m. ; fare, 5 cts. (The last three are the " South " ferries.) Brooklyn, E. D. — From Roosevelt st. to Broadway every 10 min. from 5 a. m. to 7 p. m. ; then every 7 min. to 8 p. m ; then every 20 min. to 12 p. m. ; then every 30 min. to i a. m. ; then every 20 min. to 5 a. m. Sunday every 20 min. El. Ry. station, Chatham sq. — From Houston st. to Grand st., every 10 min. from 5 a. m. to 9 p. m. ; then every 12 min. to 10 p. m. ; then every 20 min. to 12 p. m. then every 30 min. to 5 a. m. El. Ry. station, Houston st. and cross-town line of horse-cars. — From Grand st. to Broadway, every 7 min. from 6 a. m. to 11 a. m. ; then every 10 min. to 1.30 p. m. ; then every 7 min. to 7 p. m. ; then every 10 min. to 12 p. m. ; then every 30 min. to 6 a. m. — From Grand st. to Grand st., from 5 a. m. to 10 p. m. every 12 min. ; then every 24 min. to 12 p. m.: then every 30 min. to 5 a. m. El. Ry. stations Grand st, and horse-cars. — From 23d st. to Broadway at 6.15 a. m., and every 10 min. till 10 p. m. ; from 10 p. m. till i a. m. every half hour, even time ; then every 40 min. till 6.15 a. m. Brooklyn " Annex " Lines. — The various railroads terminating in Jersey City and in Weehawken have lately established lines of double-decked ferry boats * . GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 63 run in connection with their trains, at intervals of about half an hour, including Sundays, until midnight. They carry passengers to and from the Pennsylvania and Erie railway depots in Jersey City, and to and from the steamboats of the Albany Day, and Fall River lines ; land in Brooklyn at the foot of Fulton st., where nearly all the horse-cars and elevated roads of that city terminate. The fare is 10 cents, and an excellent impression of the harbor, the Battery and the water-front of the city is gained by this pleasant trip. Catherine Ferry (see Brooklyn). CoMMUNiPAW Ferry {?,tQ Jersey City). CoRTLANPT ST. [■a^^ Jersey City). Uesbrosses Ferry [ste. jersey City). Forty-second st. (see IVee/icnoken). Fort Lee. — From West 129th st. every half-hour from 6.30 a. m. to 6.30 p. m. ; then at 9.30. Cross-line horse-cars through 125th st. connect. From foot of Canal St., and landing at 22d st. : Daily, 10 a. m. ; 2 and 3.15 p. m. Sunday, 10 a m. ; 2 and 6 p. m. From Fort Lee to New York: Daily, 7.30 and u.30 a. m., and 3.30 p. m. Sunday, 8 a. m. ; 12 m. ; and 5 p. m. Fulton Ferry (see Brooklyn). Governor's Island. — From the Battery, hourly. Grand st. to Williamsburg (see Brooklyn, E. D.) Greenpoint. — From foot of East loth st, every 15 min. from 5 a. m. to 6 a. m. ; then every 12 min. to 10 a. m. ; then every 15 min. to 2 p. m. ; then every 12 min. to 7 p. m. ; then every 15 min. to g p. m. ; then every half hour to midnight. El. Ry. station. East 9th st. or horse-cars. Foot of East 22d st. every 12 or 15 min. from 5 a. m. to 9 p. m. : then every 20 min. to 12 p. m. ; then every 30 min. to 5 a. m. El. Ry. station, East 23d st. Hamilton Ferry (see Brooklyti). ?L\rt's Island — From 26th st. E. R., to Hart's Island, by steamboat, 11 a. m. daily ; none Sunday. Hoboken. — Foot Barclay st. every 10 min. from 6.30 a. m. to 7.40 p. m. ; then every 15 min. to 11.30 p. m. ; 30 min. to 4 a. m. ; then every 15 min. to 6.30 a. m. El. Ry. station, Park Place. Principal station in New York of the Del., Lack. & W'n Ry. — From foot of Christoiiher st. every 15 min. from 3.45 a. m. to 5 a. m. ; then every 10 min. to 6 p. m. : then everv 7 min. to 7 p. m. ; then every 10 min. to 11.30 p. m. : then every 30 min. to 4 a. m. El. Ry. (Ninth av. line) Christopher St. or horse-cars from Union Square. This, and the Barclay St. ferry go directlv to the station of the Delaware, Lackawanna & Western and the Morris & Essex Rys., and to the wharves of the Norddeutscher Lloyd & Hamburg American Packet steamship Companies in Hoboken, where the Hoboken Elevated Ry. ter- minates and horse-cars center. Take these ferries for " the Oranges," in New Jer- sey. From foot of 14th st. to 14th St., Hoboken, every 15 min. from 6 a. m. to 8 p. m. ; then every 30 min. to 12; then each hour until 4 a. m., and every 30 min. to 6 a. m. Sundays at longer intervals. Hunter's Point (see Long Island City). Jersey City. — From Desbrosses st. to Pennsylvania Ry. station, foot of Mont- gomery St., Jersey City, at intervals of 10 or 15 minutes all day, and half-hourly after midnight. At this ferry are the principal station and baggage-rooms of the Pennsylvania Ry. in New York. The Desbrosses st. station of the Ninth Av. El. 64 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. • ** Ry. is the only El. station near ; but horse-cars reach it from every direction. — From Cortlandt st. on same time and to same place as from Desbrosses st. This is the "Jersey City ferry," and probably the busiest one in the city. The El. Ry. stations are : Cortlandt st. on the Sixth av. line, and City Hall on the Third av. Horse-cars direct to Grand st., E. R. — From Liberty st. to Connnunipaw (station Central R. R., N. J.) 5.30 a. m. ; then every 15 min. to 9 p. m. ; then 10.15, 10.35, 1 1, 1 1. 15, 11.30, 11.45, and '- P- '11- ) 12.20, I, 1.30, and every 30 min. to 4.30 a. ni. Communications same as for Cortlandt ferry. — From Chambers st. to Pavonia av.,and the terminus of the N. Y., L. E. & W. (Erie) R. R. at intervals of 10 or 15 minutes all day, and half-hourly after midnight and on Sundays. This is one New York station of the Erie Railway and connections, the other being next mentioned. — From foot of West 23d St., to Pavonia av. and Erie R. R., 5.55 a. m ; then every 15 min. to 6.55 p. m. ; then every 30 min. to 11. 25 p. m.; then every hour to 5.55 a. m. Sundays, every 30 min. from 7 a. m. to 11.55 P- '"• > ^^'^'^ every hour from i to 7 a. m. Long Island City, and Railroad. — From James Slip E. R. (El. Ry. station, Hanover sq.) to Hunter's Point (Long Island Ry station) every 30 min. from 7 a. m. to 6.30 p. m. None Sundays — From East 34th st. (terminus branch of Third and Second av, lines of the El. Ry.) to Long Island Ry. depot. At 5.00, 5.10, 5.30, 5.45, and 6 a. m. ; then every 10 min. to 10 a. m. ; then from 10 to 15 min. until midnight ; then every 30 min. to 4.30 a. m. Sundays same. This is the ferry for the Long Island R. R.'s route to Manhattan Beach. Manhattan Beach (see Lout;- Island City). Pavonia Ferry (?,e.ejt'?-scy City)- Randall's Island. — From 120th st. by steamboat from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Roosevelt Ferry (see Brooklyn, E. £>.). South Brooklyn (see Ferry to 34th st., Brooklyn). Staten Island. — Formerly the ferries to Staten Island made several landings, but now only touch at St. George, the terminus of the Island's Rapid Transit rail- way system. The boats leave foot of Whitehall st. at intervals varymg from 20 to 40 minutes till midnight. The fare (10 cents) includes the railway ride to destina- tion, except on the line to Tottenville. Wall St. Ferry (See Brooklyn). Ward's Island. — From 26th st., E. R., 10.30 a.m., and from foot of iioth st., E. R., every 20 min. to 6 p. m. Weehawken. — From foot of W. 42d St., at intervals of from 15 min. to an hour, and 15 mm. fiom 6 a. m. to 8.35 p.m.; Sundays, the same; and also from foot of Jay St. to connect with West Shore Railroad, from 12.30 a.m.; half hourly till midnight. The Forty-second st. (green line) of horse-cars, serves this ferry, as also does the Belt line. The Brooklyn and other Bridges. East River or Brooklyn Bridge. — This magnificent bridge spans the East River and connects New York and Brooklyn. Its terminus in New York is oppo- site City Hall Park, and directly reached by the City Hall branch of the Third Av. El. Ry., and by all the horse-cars that go to the Post Office. Park Place is the nearest station on the Sixth Av. El. Ry. The terminus in Brooklyn is at Fulton and Sands sts., where all the elevated railways of that city have their termini, and GETTIJVG ABOUT THE CITY. 65 can be reached without descending to the ground, and where the cars of nearly every surface line are within a few steps. The bridge carries two drives, a broad footwalk, paved with asphalt, and a double-track cable railroad. The walk across is delightful, and seats are scattered along the broad " promenade," and in the balconies about the towers, where one may rest and enjoy the view. This includes a large part of both cities, the course of the river, until it bends out of sight behind Corlear's Hook, and the whole of the upper harbor, with the shores of Staten, Governor's and Bedloe's Islands, the latter bearing the Statue of Liberty. Admission to the foot-walk costs one cent, but twenty-five tickets are sold for five cents. The south drive is for vehicles going to Brooklyn; the north drive for those coming to New York. The toll for vehicles varies with their weight. Bridge Cars. — The railroad carries by far the larger number of persons who cross the bridge. It is a cable line, and the mechanism of the "grip" under each car may be studied from the promenade near the terminus, where the under side of the cars can be seen as they start. The power-house is in Brooklyn, and a new cable is always lying beside the track, ready to be adjusted without delay in case of breakage. The cars run in trains of three at intervals of a minnte or less dur- ing the busiest hours, and cross in si.x minutes. The fare is 3 cents, payable to ticket-sellers at each terminus, the passenger dropping his ticket into the gate- man's box at the entrance to the car platform ; packages of ten tickets are sold for 25 cents. The car platforms at both ends are directly accessible from the stations of the elevated railways, and policemen are numerous and attentive. How the Bridge toas built. — It was foreseen, many years ago, that the ferriage facilities between New York and Brooklyn were fast becoming inadequate to the rapidly growing needs of these two great cities. Not only would it be difficult to keep pace, by increase of ferries, with the advancing requirements, but the choking crowd of commerce could not find room for many more big boats in East River, and delays occurred even in fine weather, while a heavy storm, or a fog, would almost stop transportation. The need of a bridge was imperative. Much public discussion resulted in the making of acceptable plans and estimates, and the authority from the state to issue bonds of the twin cities to provide the money. In 1870 work was begun. The first thing was to make foundations by sinking caissons of timber down to a solid resting-place, 78 ft. below the water level on the New York side, and 45 ft. in Brooklyn. As fast as they sank, by tlie digging away of the ground beneath them, masonry was laid course by course ; and w^hen hard- pan was reached, the hollow beneath the caisson was filled with concrete. The lower part of the towers (which are 140.x 50 ft. on the ground), is solid, then they are hollow up to the base of the great arches, 119 ft. high ; the arches rise 117 ft. higher, and the cap-stones are 271 ft. above the water. Meanwhile the massive masonry anchorages, 127 ft. high and 1 19 ft. wide, containing the arrangement of iron bars to which the ends of the cables are fastened, were prepared, 930 ft. behind each tower. It is the weight and holding power of these anchorages that sustain the bridge, the towers really doing little more service than to elevat^e it at a sutlicient height. The ne.xt step was to erect the four cables. To make them 66 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. below and hoist them into place was deemed impracticable. They were made where they are. Two steel wire ropes, travelling over large ]:(ulleys, were stretched between the tops of the towers. By means of these, a few other small and fixed cables were stretched, movable platforms were hung, and a foot bridge was laid, upon which the workmen, and sometimes a favored visitor, could cross. The present writer was among those who made this nerve-testing trip. Then all was ready to begin the cables. Seven years had passed, and it was not until June 1 1, 1S77, that this work began. The cables are not twisted like ropes, but consist of 5434 separate galvanized steel wires (12 ft. to the pound), which were drawn over, two at a time, and laid side by side, as true to the [Moper curve of the intended cable as ]:)ossible. The " weav- ing " progressed steadily, and on Oct. 5, 1878, the last wire was drawn across. Then by a careful and ingenious method these wires were forced into a close and even round bundle, and closely wound with other wire, like the thread on a spool. Each finished cable is 3578^ ft. long, 15$ inches in diameter, and able to bear 12,200 tons in the middle of the sag. The floor beams were ne.xt suspended by steel cables from collars clasping the cables at certain intervals, and when these had been thoroughly tied together and braced, the suspension part of the structure was complete and ready for the final arrangement of roadways, railings, tracks, etc. The approaches to the bridge are massive arches of masonry, with here and there steel truss-bridges spanning the streets. The total length is \\ miles; the length between the towers 1,595 ft. ; the width, 85 ft. ; the height above the water, in the center, 135 ft.; and the variation, due to extremes of temperature, amounts to 3 ft., vertical, at the center. ' Thirteen years of time, and about $16,000,000 were expended in the undertak- ing. The inventor and engineer in charge was John A. Roebling ; but he died during the progress of the work, which was completed by his wife and son, Col. Washington Roebling, and opened to the public Sept. 24, 1883. The average number of persons crossing the bridge is about 100,000 daily ; and the cars are so overtaxed, morning and evening, that increased facilities in this direction are pressingly needed, and will soon be arranged. Harlem Bridges. — All other large bridges in New York, besides the Brooklyn Bridge, are across the Harlem. There is a railway bridge at 2d av., and at 3d av- is an iron drawbridge for general traffic, known as Harlem Bridge. At Fourth av. is the great drawbridge which brings all the railways centering in the Grand Central Depot. At Madison av., a new bridge spans the river to Mott Haven. Next comes Central Bridge, formerly known as McComb's Dam Bridge. Just above it is the new railway bridge for trains of the Northern R. R. High Bridge is above these, and is a conspicuous and beautiful object. It was built to carry the Croton aqueduct across the Harlem river and the valley at 175th st. It is 1,460 ft. long, and is supported by 13 arches resting on solid granite piers, the crown of the highest arch being 116 ft. above the river surface. The water is carried over the bridge in large cast-iron pipes protected by brick masonry. A wide foot-path enables visitors to walk across it and view the fine prospect from its top. A small park has been made at its southern end, and picnic grounds, boating houses, hotels and beer gardens are numerous at both ends. It is consequently a great GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 67 resort for out-door parties in warm weather, especially on Sundays, and sometimes a pretty rough crowd is seen there. (For means of access see pages 55 and 61.) A short distance above it another remarkable structure, called ihe Harlem River or Washington Bridge, spans the stream. It is 2,400 ft. long, and 80 ft. wide, built of steel, iron and stone. The two central arches are each 510 ft. span, and 135 ft. above high-water mark, and are notable examples of a new device in engineering, wherein sections of steel were combined and keyed into arches in the same manner as stone arches are built. Its total cost was nearly $2,700,000, and it was opened to travel in 1889. The New York end is at loth av. and 181st st., and is reached by the cable road from 125th st. King's Bridge is at the point where the waters of the Harlem River and Spuyten Duyvil Creek meet. The Harlem is, in fact, not a river, rightly speaking, but a tidal channel entered through Bronx Kills. Its course can be seen on the map. It meets an indenta- tion from the Hudson called Spuyten Duyvil Creek, and thus cuts off Manhattan Island. Its entire length is about 7 miles, the eastern (or southern) half of which is navigable for vessels of less than 10 ft. draft, and plans are under way for making it a part of a ship canal between Long Island Sound and the Hudson -River, cutting across the peninsula below King's Bridge into the Spuyten Duyvil. At present the lower part of the river is of great convenience as a landing place for coal and other heavy freights ; and small pleasure steamers ply upon its waters, as far as High Bridge, while it is the scene of nearly all the pleasureable and professional boating in the city. For the odd name, " Spuyten Duvvil," Washington Irving gives this facetious explanation : One dark and stormy night, Antony Van Corlear, the trusty henchman of Pieter de Groot, swore that he would swim across the water in spite of the devil (Spyt den Duyvil), and was drowned in the attempt. Posi Office and Postal Facilities. The General Post Office is at the junction of Broadway and Park Row, next the City Hall, and is reached from up town by all the north and south surface railways, and by the Third Av. El. Ry. to City Hall station, or by the Sixth Av! line to Park Place. The "general delivery" [post restante) windows are near the front door ; the stamp-selling windows on the Broadway side. Letters can be asked for and stamps bought all night as well as during the day, except that on Sunday the office is open only from 9 to 1 1 a. m. The Money-order, Registered- letter and other special offices are up-stairs, and are open from 9 to 4. The site of this huge building (which is a conspicuous example of the structures erected for the government when Mr. Mullet was supervising architect) was for- merly the southern point of City Hall Park. "The structure is five stories high above the sidewalk — one story being in the Mansard roof — besides a basement 6$ GUIDE TO NEW YORK C/TY. and a sub-basement. The arcliitecture is a mixture of Doric and Renaissance. Several domes patterned after those of the Paris Louvre rise high above the sky* line proper. The material used in the construction of the walls is a light-colored granite from Dix Island, Me. The girders, beams, etc., are all of iron. It was POST OFKICE. completed at a cost of between $6,000,000 and $7,000,000, and first occujiied on SejJt. I, 1875. The engines and other machinery used in heating the building and running the elevators connecting the different floors are placed in the sub-base- ment, while the basement is used for the reception and sorting of mails. The various " drops," letter boxes, delivery windows, and offices for the sale of stamps, are on the first or main floor. The Postmaster's and other offices are on the sec- ond floor, while the third and fourth floors are used by the Law Institute and by the United States Courts and their officers. The fifth floor is given over to the janitors and to the storage of various articles." The Post Office is not beloved by architects. " Modeling with the masses," these critics assert, " has been indeed attempted, but so imperfectly carried out that we do not get a single effective mass, a single powerful shadow, a single de- cisive line. Of composition, with the voids and solids there is no trace at all ; we see no wall-spaces that can be so called, and the windows are distributed with monotonous, mechanical regularity. We miss, accordingly, all such impression of solidity and dignity as the eye demands in so large a building; we miss all expres- sion of interior through exterior forms; we miss all proof of an artistic conception GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 69 in the builder's brain; and we miss, in spite of the fact that there is no plain sur- face where the eye can rest, all evidence that he understood the aim of decoration. It is a big, costly, conspicuous structure, but no one calls it a work of art." About 2500 men are employed at the New York Post Office, in the collection, sorting, and delivery of the 890,000,000 letters, newspapers, etc., handled at this office annually. The average receipts per year are about $6,000,000, and the expenditures about $2,000,000, so that the office yields a net profit of $4,000,000. Branch Post Offices. — General details in regard to post office management and the handling of mails have no place here, but a few facts may be useful to the stranger as to the branch post-offices, called Stations. These branches are scattered all over the city, and form the local centers for collection and distribu- tion of mail by the carriers. They are open until 8 p. m. on weekdays, and from 8 to 10 a. m. on Sundays. Stamps, money-orders, postal notes and registered letters may be bought there, but no letters are given to callers at these stations, any letter addressed to a station being delivered to the address by the carrier, or, if this is not known, returned to the General Post Office to be advertised, etc. For any question as to the delivery of your mail by the carrier, go to the station in whose district you live: Following is a list of these branch post offices, it being under- stood that the General Post Office serves all the region south of a cross-line through East, Houston, Canal and Clarkson sts. : A, 21 E. Houston st. serving a territory thus bounded: Franklin st. from West St. to West Broadway, to Canal St., to Bowery, to E. 4th st., to W. 4th st., to 6th av., to Carmine st., to Clarkson St., to West st. B, 3S0 Grand st. : north of Catharine st. from East River, to 63 Bowery, to both sides of E. Houston St., to East River. C, 95 Bank st. : Clarkson st., from West St., to Carmine st., to west side of 6th av., to W. 4th St., to MacDougal St., to Waverley pi., to 5th av., to W. 20th st, to North River. D, corner 9th and Stuyvesant sts. : above E. Houston st. from East River, to Bowery, to E. 4th st., to Washington pi., to Washington sq., to 5th av., to E. 20th St., to East River. E, 322 7th av. : north of W. 20th st. from North River to 5th av. (west side), iacluding W. 44th st. 7^,401 3d av. : north of E. 20th st. from East River, to east side 5th av., to and including E. 44th St., to East River. C, i66r Broadway: W. 44th 4t. from North River, to 5th av., to W. 59th St., to 8th av., to W. looth st., to North River. //, 156 E. 54th St. : north of E. 44th st. from East River, to 5th av., to but not including E. 71st St., to East River. J, Sth av. cor. 123d st. : north of W. looth st. to W. i5Sth St., from 5th av. to Hudson river. A', 203 E. 86th St., near 3d av. : E. 71st st. from East River, to 5th av., to and including E. lOOth St., to East River. L, 117 E. 125th St.: above looth st. from East River, to and including 5th av. ; to 145th St., to Harlem River, to East River, to looth st. 76 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. M, cor. 158111 St. and loth av. : Washington Heights northward to King's Bridge. P, Stone St., cor. Produce Exchange. K, Third av. and 150th st. Morrisania, Motthaven and that trans-llarlcm region generally. S, Riverdale av. near railroad crossing: serves the west side of the district north of Spuyten Uuyvil generally ; but Riverdale village has a sub-station to itself, and letters should be addressed " Riverdale." T, Tremont, central part of Annexed District; address K iters " Tremont." " High ISridge" is also a branch station, by name. In addition to this, some 20 sub-stations have lately been established — princi- pally in drug stores. These are primarily for the sale of stamps, the registering of letters, and the sale of money orders, but there are also collection boxes at each sub-station. The letters from this are taken up by the same collectors who take from the lamp-post boxes, but there is a special collection several times a day by wagon of second and third class matter. By means of all these aids to rapid circulation of mail, letters will be delivered in any part of the city within two or three hours of mailing at the utmost, and if addressed to a point within the same district where mailed, in a much shorter time. The use of a "special delivery" stamp, costing 10 cents additional, may hasten this time somewhat. The letter rate to any part of the city is 2 cents. Delivery by carrier, to specified house and number, or where the address is known to or can be obtained by the post office authorities, is made throughout all parts of the city, at intervals, in the more densely populated quarters, of only an hour or two; from morning until 8 or 9 p. m. The carriers also deliver registered letters and parcels ; or these can be obtained at the General Post Office, where the delivery hours are from 9 a.m. to 6 p. m. ; and the receiving hours (also at the stations), are from 8 a. m. to 6.30 p. m. Collections are made from the lamp-post boxes, and the boxes in hotel and large buildings, at intervals of an hour or two (even oftener down town), all day and at midnight; on Sunday a collection is made in the afternoon, and again at midnight. A " Post Office Guide " is pub- lished, which gives full information as to foreign and other mails. Letters addressed to persons who cannot be found are advertised in some of the daily papers after being held one month. They are then delivered at the general Post Office to the persons to whom they are addressed on payment of a fee of i ct. Letters directed to no definite street, number, box, or hotel are placed on general delivery to await calls. Boxes may be rented at the general Post Office and at the various stations for $16 per annum. Telegraphs, Telephones and the Messenger Service. Telegraphs.— All the land telegraph and ocean cable companies have their head offices and many branch stations in New York. The IVesfeni Union Head- GETTING ABOUT THE CITY. 71 qttartcrs is in the huge building at the corner of Broadway and Dey St., just below the Post Office. At Fifth av. and 23d St., and at 16 Broad St., are the principal branch offices, connected with the central office at Dey st. by pneumatic tubes ; others are at 599, 854, and 1227 Broadway ; 821 6th av., and 134 E. 125th St., which are open night and day. A large number of minor offices are scattered every- where, in hotels, ferry-stations, great stores and other convenient places. Mes- sages between local offices in the city or in Brooklyn cost 15 cts. for 10 words, and one cent for each additional word. The Postal Telegraph and Cable Company has its central office at 187 Broadway, and many branch offices throughout the city. The American District and the Mutual District Telegraph Companies have offices scattered all over town, generally in conjunction with the Western Union offices, where uniformed messenger boys are on hand to deliver telegrams, answer calls, and perform every variety of service for which a boy is capable, from simply carrying a message or delivering a package, to cashing a check, escorting ladies to the theatre or to a railway station, or distributing advertisements. Both companies place small automatic call-instruments in clubs, hotels, offices and pri- vate houses, by which a messenger, or one of the company's firemen (armed with chemical apparatus), or a policeman with full authority may be summoned, by simply pulling a lever. The charge is regulated by a tariff, which is printed in a book supplied to subscribers and carried by the boys ; and it is well to learn in advance what will be the charge for the service you wish done. These boys are faithful in their work, and as prompt as could be expected, notwithstanding the popular jibes at them, but many of them will overcharge a customer if they can. Telephones are as numerous in New York as elsewhere, the companies here being the Metropolitan and American, with offices at 18 Cortlandt st. ; and the Southern Bell Telephone Company at 195 Broadway. The city is divided into many districts, each with a " central " office, as about 30,000 " calls " a day are recorded. At frequent intervals, in telegraph and messenger offices, hotels, drug stores, ferries, etc., public "pay" stations are indicated by a blue sign, where the use of a telephone can be had for a small fee, and some of these are " long-dis- tance " stations, whose wires reach ])laces as remote as Boston, Buffalo and Washington. Electrical Subways. — " For many years," to quote Mayor Hugh Grant's annual message, relating to affairs in 1889, "our thoroughfares have been ob- structed and disfigured by unsightly poles and dangerous electrical wires. Laws have been enacted providing for the burial of electrical conductors, but, until recently, no apparent effort has been made to enforce them. In the early part of the present year energetic and decisive measures were taken to abate this nuisance. From some of the leading thoroughfares these obstructions have been entirely 72 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. removed, and it is the firm purpose of the local authorities to prosecute this reform to a speedy completion. By the close of next summer it is confidently believed that every pole will be removed from the streets, and that every electrical wire will be operated underground in properly constructed subways. " Since the first of January, 1889, the bureau of incumbrances has removed 2,495 poles, and about 14,500,000 lineal feet of electrical wires." The subways alluded to by Mayor Grant are tunnels, with accommodations for a great number of wires, which underlie the principal streets; and the groups of men who will frequently be encountered working about a round trap-door in the middle of the street, are engaged with the buried wires in these tunnels. They carry small fences which are erected about the man-hole, as soon as its cover is removed, and generally one man remains above to work a portable fan, supplying fresh air to his co-laborers beneath. Subterranean connections are made with buildings in which telegraph, telephone or electric light wires are necessary, and with the electric arc lamps that light the streets at night. IV. THEATRES, THE OPERA AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. |ROBABLY the first thing to which the average visitor to New York turns his attention, after 'getting his " bearings," is amusement — though with the |,/ gentler sex shopping might hold first place : if, indeed, it would not come under the same head in their esti- mation. The amusements of this great gay city are mul- titudinous in number, as wide in their variety as are the di- versity and breadth of human tastes and ingenuity, incessant in action, and of all grades of expensiveness. They range liom the Italian opera and Shakesperian drama, to the beery concert hall and dime museum ; from scientific exhibitions to a Bowery auction ; from a Delmonico banquet to a lunch- eon in Chinatown ; from Long Branch and Manhattan Beach ' T to a clambake at Sandy Hook ; from Plymouth pulpit to the Salvation Army ; from athletics at the Turn Verein or Columbia to a slug- ging-match on the East Side ; from a stroll up Fifth Avenue to a midnight ramble in the Five Points. They change with the alternating seasons; and parallel with the regular methods of enjoyment go innumerable and never-ceasing attractions of an occasional character. The men or women who cannot amuse themselves in New York, each according to his taste, are confirmed misanthropes, who can find no joy in life anywhere. The amusements fall into certain classes, briefly and candidly summarized below. Theatres and the Opera. Metropolitan Opera House. — This vast new playhouse is entitled to first place. It occupies the block on Broadway between 39th and 40th sts., and through to Seventh av. giving it a space 200 by 260 ft. square. The excellent archi- 74 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. tecture of this building, which is conspicuously in view all the way up Broadway, from below Union Sq., has often been commented upon. In The Century for July, 1884, will be found one extended criticism with several fine illustrations. The writer points out the many restrictions of space and limited expenditure and subordination of interior room to external effect under which the architect, Mr. Cady, labored. " It would, therefore, be manifestly unjust," she assures her readers, '' to ask for monumental grandeur. . . . We can only congratu- late ourselves that we have got as much as we have — an honest, unaffected, schol- arly, dignified pile, as well designed in mass as was possible under the circum- stances, expressive, at all events, of its structural fashioning, and happy in the composition of its voids and solids. . . . Would it not be well," Mrs. Van Rens- selear adds, " if in our other theatres the same sort of excellence prevailed ? Is it not a vast improvement on such a hideous nullity as our old Academy of Mu- sic ? And, on the other hand, should we not be happier if the Casino Theatre had been less fantastic, and if the Eden Museum on Twenty-third street, had relied on structural beauty and ajjpropriate, subordinated decoration for its effect, instead of upon a showy accumulation of superficial details, mechanical in spirit, and thrice too plentiful for the size of its fa9ade 1 " The design in a general way is after the Italian Renaissance, and the material is vellow brick. The entrances are numerous, and the main foyer, in the Broad- way front, is 34 by 82 feet in dimensions, and can be enlarged by opening wide doors into a parlor. The auditorium, (ca]iacity, 6000), contains three rows and a half of boxes, 122 in all, with each of which is connected a salon twice the size of the box itself, in which refreshments may be served, wraps left, and visits received be- tween the acts. These boxes are precisely alike and equally desirable all the way around the amphitheatre ; and most of them are owned by wealthy patrons, THEATRES AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 75 whose names are placed upon the doors. The stage is 96 ft. wide, 76 ft. deep, and 120 ft. high. It also goes some 30 ft. below the floor. The building was opened for performances in October, 1883, under the management of Henry Abbey. It is devoted chiefly to Italian and German singing, many of the Wagner operas having been produced there recently with great idor It is also the scene of important entions and great balls each season, of which the stupendous Centennial ball, in May, 1889, has been the most notorious. The admission prices are usually about twice those of the first-class theatres, though the highest gallery has cheap seats. The Academy of Music, in 14th st. near Fourth av., was the home of opera and the tragic muse until the Metropolitan Opera House was built, and there all the GRAND STAIRCASE METRO- g^eat singers, especially of Italian opera, were accus- POLITAN OPERA HOUSE. tomcd to be heard. It is a very spacious and hand- some structure, interiorly, and for two years past has been exclusively occupied by Denman Thompson's " Old Homestead." It was built in 1854, and rebuilt, after a fire, in 1866. The Grand Opera House, Eighth av. and 23d st., is another theatre of large size and varied fortunes. It has a massive and ornamental front of white marble, through which a grand entrance from each street leads to the spacious audito- rium. Badly situated, it failed as a theatre, but in 1869 the building was pur- chased by the late James Fisk, Jr., and Jay Gould, and the upper floors were devoted to the offices of the Erie Railway until after the death of P'isk. " It was the scene of the magnificently audacious career of that prince of railway wreckers, and the theatre was kept open at a loss during his occupancy, princi- pally as the home of ope7-a boiiffe." When Fisk was killed the property passed into the hands of managers who devoted it to " star " companies, and it has prospered. The prices here are frequently much lower than on Broadway. Niblo's Garden is a third very spacious and well-known theatre, and the suc- cessor of one of the foremost playhouses of the city half a century ago. It is in the Metropolitan Hotel, at 589 Broadway, corner of Printe st. The present 76 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. interior dates from 1872, will seat 2000 people, and contains ample lobbies and a tiny relic of a former *' garden." This theatre has been devoted almost entirely to spectacular pieces, since the appearance there of the " Black Crook," twenty years ago : and its stage, which is peculiarly wide and high, has machinery adapted to these and to melodramatic performances. The prices are moderate. Tony Pastor's vaudeville theatre is next beyond the Academy, at 143 E. 14th St. ; and at the corner of Irving Place and E. 15th st., nearly opposite the side entrance to the Academy, is Amberg's Theatre, which has been tastefully remodeled out of the old Irving Hall, and is devoted to standard plays and opera by German performers and in the German language. In the same neighborhood is the new Union Square Theatre, on 14th st. near Broadway, which has been rebuilt and much enlarged and beautified since it was burned in 1888. Before that accident many strong plays were first produced there, under the former management of Mr. A. M. Palmer, such as " The Banker's Daughter," " A Celebrated Case," and others which had extraordinary runs. The Star, at Broadway and 13th st, is the second house built by the Wallacks, James and Lester, and became widely renowned as Wallack's Theatre. It is leased by Theodore Moss, and is the scene of " star " acting of a high order. The Fourteenth Street Theatre, just west of Sixth av., has paid the penalty of its bad situation by frequent change of ownership and many misfortunes. It was called the Lyceum for a time, under Fechter, and later became Haverly's. Now the playing is by star companies, and varies from something as near " legit- imate " as the " Still Alarm," to the "tank drama" and extravaganzas. The prices of admission are often lower than is usual on Broadway. No theatres are to be found between 14th and 23d sts., but between 23d and 42d they are plentiful. Proctor's Theatre, on 23d st., just west of Sixth av., was built some years ago by Salmi Morse for the exhibition of the Passion Play, but this project was never executed. It is advertised as " absolutely fire-proof," and as having an extra number of exits. Its interior is handsome and comfortable. The plays are given by star companies who portray American comedies of a high class. One peculiarity of this theatre is its half-price admission for children to matinees on Wednesday and Saturday. The site of Mr Edwin Booth's fine old theatre on the S. E. corner of 23d st. and Sixth av. is covered by stores. Opposite is Masonic Hall, where amateur theatricals, lectures, etc. are sometimes given. A few doors east of it the broad front and many lights of the Eden Musee will attract attention to its exhibition of wax works, accompanied by music and special novelties, mentioned hereafter. The Madison Square Theatre is in 24th st., just in the rear of the Fifth Avenue Hotel, where it replaces the one burned so spectacularly on New Year's THEATRES AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 77 INTERIOR THE LYCEUM. day, twenty years ago. It is noted for its cosy and prettily decorated interior and for the uniform excellence of the comedies and serious social dramas pre- sented by its stock company under the management of Mr. A. M. Palmer, which have included such long-running productions as " Hazel Kirke," and " Jim the Penman." In this theatre the orchestra is over the proscenium ; and a striking novelty is an elevator-stage, which is raised and lowered between the acts, giving the stage carpenter an opportunity to set one scene during the playing of- the pre- ceding act. Another pietty theatre is The Lyceum, on Fourth av. bet. 23d and 24th sts. ' ' ' ■ ' - J j^ Here are to be seen comedies of the modern English domes- ' ^ \^ tic school, like " Lord Chumley " and " The Charity Ball," ^'sff^ and this house which is new and elegant, has attained great popularity. The Fifth Avenue, at Broadway and 28th st. is the first theatre above Madison sq., introducing us to a nest of jjlayhouses. This house was built for Mr. Augustin Daly by the Gilsey estate, prior to which Mr. Daly had achieved a marked success as manager of a theatre of the same name standing on the sight of the present Madison Square Theatre. Here is introduced the " drama of contempora- neous human interest," by such plays as " Divorce," " P;que," " Frou-Frou," etc., etc. Fanny Davenport, Clara Morris, Agnes Ethel, Kate Claxton and other well- known actresses made their first metropolitan successes at this theatre. It is now what is called a " star theatre " and has had a dozen managements since that of Mr. Daly, who now devotes himself to the next one to be named. Daly's Theatre, was designed by Mr. Daly to be a repre- sentative theatre of modern comedy of the higher class and for the special revival of .Shakesperian comedy. The com- pany headed by Ada RehRn, James Lewis, John Drew and Mrs. Gilbert has an exceptional reputation in Eng- land, as well as in this country for its talents and artistic training. On the other side of Broadway, is Palmer's Theatre, (N. E. cor. 30th st.), built by Lester Wallack after his moving from 13th St., and known as ■"* " Wallack's " until transferred to Mr. A. M. Palmer in 1888. Wallack's company was retained for one season after his death and then dis banded, its last appearance being in the " School for Scandal," with a memorable cast, on May 5, 1888. This theatre is one of the most elegant and comfortable in the city, and an attention to detail and a richness of stage-setting are usual here which are not always visible \\\ other theatres, even of the highest order. 3t^r 78 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. actors, beginning with Coquelin's first appearance in America, and including Irving and Terry, Salvini and others of similar eminence, have been seen here lately, but Mr. Palmer will transfer to this house the stock company, recruited and rein- forced, which has made its reputation at the Madison Square. The Bijou Theatre is a pretty little house opposite Palmer's (bet. 30th and 31st sts.), devoted to comic opera. The Gaiety is the new name for a small theatre, now given up to comic opera, which was long the home of the old San Francisco Minstrels. Facing Broadway, though standing on Sixth av. near 33d st., is the tall Standard Theatre, — a house of varied foi tunes le membered as the place where " Puiafoie was first heard in New York. Just abo\e, at the corner of 35th St., on the site of the Aquarium, abandoned long ago, is the New Park Theatre, where the roaring fun of Irish comedies attracts a crowd of laughter-loving people nightly. This is the successor to Harrigan and Hart's playhouse formerly in Broadway near 8th st., where the curious structure erected for "Old London Streets" now stands. The Casino is now con- spicuous on the east side of Broadway at 39th st. ris- ing in an ornamental pile of Moorish architecture, contrasting sharply with the staid character of the buildings about it, and at night blazing with lanterns and rows and pinnacles of lights. Interiorly the oriental style is carried out in all the details of box-arrangement, open lobbies and mural decoration, while gilding is laid on with a barbaric expansiveness which at night is not without a gaudy splendor of effect. Opera bouffe occupies the stage, Aimee and Theo singing Offenbach's gay melodies in time past, while Gilbert and Sullivan's familiar operas, supplemented by "Erminie" and the hke, have appeared more frequently of late years. A large cafe and summer garden is open on the roof THE CASINO. THEATRES AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 79 of this theatre during, and for an hour after, the performance, to which all in the house have free admittance, and where a band plays at brief intervals. Two blocks above, at the S. W. corner of 41st St., is the new Broadway Theatre, — a large and elegant house devoted to " star " performances of the first class, especially in the Shakesperian plays and good light operas. The Third Avenue, at Third av. and 31st st., gives good plays by travelling companies, as also does the Mt. Morris Theatre in Harlem (2398 Third av.). The leading theatre in the upper part of the city, however, is Mr. Hammer- stein's new Harlem Opera House, on 125th st. just west of Seventh av. The building is lofty and handsome. On its upper floors are an extensive ball-room and hall with a gallery, rostrum, etc. ; and several lodge-rooms. The main entrance is at the level of the sidewalk and leads directly into a large foyer, separated only by curtains, if at all, from the parquette. The decorations of this theatre are in blue, gold and old-ivory white, and its admirers assert with good reason that it is the handsomest house in New York. The building cost $300,000,. is fire-proof, both stage and auditorium are at the level of the ground, and there are no less than 18 exits. The seating capacity is 1600. The winter of 1889-90 was its first season, and the leading starring com- ]3anies of the country were heard there. A second theatre, to be called The Columbus, as large and as gorgeously, furnished as this, is in course of con- struction on 125th St. near Fourth av., where travelling companies will apjjear. Performances, second-rate only in the cheapness of stage-fittings and admission price, are to be seen at the People's Theatre, in the Bowery, oi)]iosite Spring st, at the Windsor, Bowery near Grand St., and at The Thalia (German), as the ancient "Bowery Theatre" near Chatham Square is now called. (See Night Ramble.) The Madison Square Garden. — This new structure, opened in June, 1S90, is of a class by itself, since it affords accommodations for a variety of entertainments. It occupies the block diagonally opposite the northeast corner of Madison sq., bounded by Madison av., 27th St., Fourth av. and 26th st., — the site of the old garden where circuses, athletic matches and exhibitions were wont to be seen. The new building is a handsome structure of buff-brick and light terra cotta, is constructed wholly of masonry, iron and glass, is lighted by electricity and is abso- lutely fire-proof. At the southwest corner a tower rises to the height of 300 ft., ascended by elevators and staircases and provided with summit balconies com- manding a wide landscape. The building contains an amphitheatre, a theatre, a resfaiirant, a concert hall, a roof garden and several sfiialler rooms, with 8o GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. THE BROADWAY THEATRE. all possible conveniences for public and private entertainments. On special occasions all portions of this structure, except the Theatre, can be so arranged as to communicate. The Aviphitlieatre is 310 by 194 ft. and 80 ft. high, with an arena containing a track one-tenth of a mile in length. It has a permanent seating capacity for 6,000 people, inclusive of 150 private boxes, and for conven- tions and similar purposes, can be arranged to seat 12,000. Under the permanent seats, and extending around the entire Amphitheatre, is a continuous hall with upwards of 30,000 square feet available for exhibitions, fairs, stabling for horse shows, circuses, etc. The Restaitrant, on the ground floor in the Madison av. and 26lh st. corner of the building, is 80 x 90 feet in dimensions and is handsomely decorated. Its kitchen is on the roof. Over the restaurant is the Concert Hall, sazLimg 1500 people; it is also intended to be used as a bail or banqueting room, and for this purpose con- necting supper-rooms and every convenience have been provided. The Theatre occupies the corner at Madison av. and 27th st., and will seat 1200 persons. It is fire proof, its ej«it§ are ample, and its accommodations of the most advanced THEATRES AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 8i and elaborate kind, both before and behind the footlights. The decorations are in white and gold. On the Madison av. end is a Roof Garden to be used as a summer garden and restaurant ; or it may be covered with glass as a winter gar- den, if deemed advisable in the future. This establishment bids fair to become one of the most popular places of amusement in the city. General Remarks. Prices. — The prices usual at the New York theatres are $1.50 for the orchestra or best balcony seats, $1 admission without seat secured, and 50 cts. for the upper circles. At the Grand Opera House, Niblo's, and the " popular " houses in the Bowery, the prices vary, running down as low as 50 cents admission, and 75 cents for reserved orchestra chairs. The Rialto. — One of the peculiarities of the city, most noticeable in the early autumn, when actors are seeking and arranging engagements, is the congregation of " the profession " on the sidewalks and in the restaurants along Broadway between 27th and 31st sts. This is due to an ancient custom fostered by the presence in that neighborhood of the Actors' Fund and several dramatic agencies; but this new " Rialto " is a very recent change from the old and famous " slave mart " on the south side of Union Square, Amateur Dramatics. — Tn both New York and Brooklyn many societies of amateur dramatic performers exist, some of which give regular performances, of a public, or semi-public nature, while others act only before invited friends. The addresses of such societies can easily be ascertained by any stranger interested in making their acquaintance. Costumes, etc. — Costumers are numerous in the Bowery and Third av., about Union Square and in Sixth av., where masquerade dresses, wigs, masks, etc., and usually evening suits may be hired. The wearing at the opera or theatre of " full dress " by the ladies and evening suits by gentlemen is not imperative in New York ; but it is becoming so common as no longer to excite remark. At the opera and especially in theatre boxes it is almost invariable. ]/audevilie Eniertainments. A cla.ss of theatres known as Variety houses has many examples in this city, of various grades of excellence. The most noted of these is Tony Pastor's, in the Tammany Hall building, on E. 14th St., near Third av. The program is a mix- ture of serio-comic and comic vocalisni, trapeze performances, juggling, acrobatics, clog and ballet dancing, and broad farces. A dozen years ago public opinion was very tolerant on this point and cancan dancing and other reprehensible performances could be seen on the public " vari- 82 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. ety " stage. Now, however, the legal line is drawn far more strictly, and nothing worse occurs than the costumes of the ballet, and occasional words and gestures suggestive of indecency. Ladies often go to Tony Pastor's, but rarely, to any of the others, where the admission fee is only a few cents, the audience con- sists of men and boys who smoke, and in some places drink beer or spirits, during the performance and the whole affair is subsidiary to patronage of the bar. The other variety theatres are Koster & Dial's, 23d st. west of Sixth av. (distinguished of late by the fine dancing of Carmencita) ; the Comique in Harlem (125th st., near Third av.) ; Harry- Miner's, Bowery, near Broome st. and Eighth av. near 26th st. ; Harry Kennedy's, 8th St. near Fourth av., and the London, in the Bowery, near Rivington st. Thence they grade down to the " dives " where no respectable man will set his foot, except, perhaps, to satisfy a moment's curiosity. Concert Saloons. — A class of amusement places, so called, which may be included here, is that of the concert saloons, spoken of more particularly in another chapter (see Night Ramislk). The most extensive and gorgeously fur- nished of them are east and south-east of Union sq. The remainder are along the Bowery and Chatham st. Musical Entertainments. Halls. — First among the music halls stands the Lenox Lyceum, which began to be used only in January of 1889. It stands at Madison av. and 59th St., and is easily accessible by both horsecars and elevated railway. The main entrance is on the avenue, and is a handsome, though rather squat fa9ade of colored marbles. The auditorium is a circular hall, 135 ft. across, covered by a dome, the zenith of which is 75 ft. high, in one side of which is a large stage, over which curves an extensive and remarkable sounding board, adding greatly to the acoustic perfection of the great room ; this can be removed whenever it would be in the way of amateur theatricals or other uses for the stage. The decorations are rich in color, Init harmonious and consistent with the Italian renaissance style of architecture to which the whole interior closely con- forms. The lobbies are extensive and commodious; there are cafes, restaurants and smoking rooms under the same roof; and besides its main purpose as a hall for concerts, and especially for a high class of instrumental music, the Lyceum will often be used for banquets, great balls and like occasions. It was opened by Theo. Thomas's orchestra in a series of concerts which set the key for all that is to take place in this finest temple of music. When standing room is taken, 3000 persons can gather in the auditorium ; yet the mechanical arrangements for heating or cooling the building, and for the replacing of the vitiated air with fresh, are sufficient to insure comfort to even so large a crowd. 84 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Here, no doubt, will be heard hereafter, the serial concerts of the Symphony and Oratorio Societies, which are features of each winter in New York, after the holi- days; and also the fashionable rehearsals and concerts of the Philharmonic Society, — where evening dress is insisted upon by custom. Following the example of Steinway & Sons (whose famous hall in E. 14th st. has now been converted into ware rooms), the Chickering Company opened some years ago a great concert-hall over their salesroom at Fifth av. and i8th st. known as Chickering Hall. This is theatre-like in its interior, and has a very large stage. Concerts of the highest class are .given here, as well as lectures and other reputable meetings and entertainments. Hardman Hall, near by it, is a new institution of a similar character. Musical Societies. — The oldest musical society in the city is said to be the German Liederkranz, founded in 1847. The society has about 1,600 members, of whom 152 are "active" (gentlemen who sing), and the balance " passive " mem- bers. There is also a female chorus of about 80 voices. Its club-house is in E. 58th St., between Park and Lexington a vs., where the concert hall is 125 x 100 ft., with a balcony, and will seat 1,200 persons, while the large dining hall in the base- ment will seat 800 persons. The Liederkranz gives at its own hall three concerts, with Thomas's orchestra, making it a point to perform at each a novelty with their full chorus, whereby these compositions are generally for the first time brought before an American audience. Once during the winter the society gives a public masked ball (see below), which is one of the most pretentious and merry of those festivities. A free school of music for both young men and women is maintained by the society. The Arion is another well-known singing and social club, much like the Lieder- kranz, though less serious in its musical manifestations. There are some 800 members, 150 of whom are in the choir; and the club-house is a new and hand- some edifice at Park av. and 59th st. The annual Arion masquerade at the Met- ropolitan Opera House is a great event for nimble-footed dancers. Less generally known are the Beethoven Mannerchor, 210 5th St.; the Miinner- chor, 103 E. 53d St. ; the Mendelssohn Glee Club, 55th St., east of Fifth av. ; the New York Sangerbunde, Third av. and 15th st. ; the Oratorio Society, 30 E. 14th st. ; and the Philharmonic Society, 923 Fourth av. The concerts of the last-named form the musical climax of the winter, and every person of fashion who wants to be thought attentive to art, tries to be seen there in his most stylish estate. Lectures and Instructive Exhibitions. Lectures in New York are frequent, but occasional, and the advertisements in the daily papers, especially in T/ie Tribune and The Evening Post, should be scrutinized daily by any one interested. Chickering Hall and the hall of the THEATRES AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 85 Y. M. C. A. building are the usual places for their delivery, but many are given in churches and in theatres, on Sunday, especially in the Grand Opera House. A long course of weekly lectures is sustained by the Y. M. C. A. each winter ; the Cooper Union supports a free course of lectures on popular science and kin- dred subjects; and the illustrated travel courses of Cromwell, Stoddard and others are to be heard. At Columbia College the lectures to the higher classes are often open to the public, too. But perhaps the most interesting thing in this line, to a visitor, is an evening in the great basement-hall of the Cooper Union. Here are held not only the largest political mass-meetings that assemble any- where in the city under cover (it was here that Lincoln made his renowned speech in i860) ; but it is the usual forum for addresses by the orators of the Anti-Poverty Society, the Labor and Trades Unions, and of all sorts of reforms and social and religious is7ns. It is an enormous room, and some of the crowds which assemble there exhibit, in a way that can be seen nowhere else at a glance, the cosmopolitan, polyglot character of the metropolis. A Sunday night meeting at the Cooper Union is one of the "sights " of New York. Exhibitions. — Certain instructive exhibitions are always visible. Among these is the Eden Musee, in 23d St., near .Sixth av., a collection of wax figures of historical and prominent living personages, arranged after the style of Madame Tussaud's, in London, and is open all the year around, and on Sundays; admis- sion 50 cents. In addition to the " figgers," the " chamber of horrors," and so on, music and light stage performances are usually given at stated hours. The cyclo- rama of the Battle of Gettysburg, on the corner of Fourth av. and 19th St., also falls into this class and is well worth seeing. It is open every day and evening, in- cluding Sundays ; admission, 50 cents, Sundays, 25 cents. The " anatomical " and "dime museums" of the side streets would like to see themselves classified under this head, no doubt; but when they are not cloaks for some swindling game they are humbugs, pandering to the morbid taste of the ignorant and credulous, and are unworthy any attention from persons of intelligence. Museums and Galleries. — The one great museum of the city is the American Museum of Natural History, described as a part of Central Park (see Parks). A fine Geological Museum, exceedingly well arranged by Dr. J. S. Newberry, is open to the public at Columbia College (which see), in the School of Mines Build- ing. A hideous series of instruments of brutality can be examined at the offices of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, P'ourth av. and 22dst.; and an introduction at Police Headquarters may enable you to see the " Rogue's Gallery," and the relics of criminals, preserved there. The Art Galleries open for inspection will be found described under Art. The Circus usually makes a prolonged halt in New York, in the earliest spring, previous to going upon the summer tours ; and some years ago Barnum became so 86 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. nearly a permanent feature as to fasten the name Hippodrome upon the old Mad- ison Square Garden, where he exhibited. (See above.) In winter a large number of live animals belonging to circus companies are left in the Central Park Menag- erie to be cared for. and add greatly to the census of that otherwise rather meagre vivarium. 'I'he amphitheatrical shows occasionally held at Erastina, on Staten Island, and such prolonged out-door exhibitions as Buffalo Bill's " Wild West," are mainly supported by city people, though held in the suburbs, and the means of reaching them and hours of performance are well advertised. Balls and Dancing. The private festivities among all classes that fall under this head need no com- ment in a guide-book, further than to say that many large, yet strictly private, dancing parties are held in public assembly rooms, like Delmonico's or Sherry's parlors, since few private houses afford the space. For another class of balls, which recur with regularity and are in a certain sense public, the Metropolitan Opera House or the Lenox Lyceum are now generally chosen ; in this class come the great Charity and the Patriarchs' balls, the annual masquerades, and several other more or less fashionable dancing assemblies which strangers may attend if they choose. A regular feature of winter gaiety are the public balls given by several French and German organizations, of which the Arion, Le Societe de I'Harmonie, and Le Cercle Fran9aise de I'Amitie are most conspicuous. These are nominally masquerades, and are Parisian in style. The floor com- mittee and other members array themselves in gorgeous mediaeval costumes, the ball opens with a grand march of maskers and many of the dancers are in cos- tume — those with abbreviated skirts being the favorite among the gentler sex attending. Nothing more than a mere mask, in addition to evening dress, is required of dancers, however, and long before morning all masks are discarded. .Supper and wine rooms are attached to the hall, and their effect is presently apparent. .Soon after midnight the more dignified of the members take their fam- ilies home and then the fun becomes fast and furious. .Still good nature reigns and the presence of numerous policemen ]jreserves order, and prevents too high kicking in the quadrilles by the lively demoiselles. Tickets for these balls are on sale at the hotels and principal restaurants; and L'Harmonie ball is the largest one of the series. Below these in rank are a great number of lesser dances given by neighborhood clubs. Beer Gardens and Bar-rooms. In summer, dancing may be enjoyed at a large number of " pavilions" and beer gardens, some of wliich are in the city, but most in the outskirts, or at the seaside. Jones Wood, at the foot of E. 69th St., once a beautiful grove surrounding a man- sion, but now an immense pleasure house for beer-drinking picnics and dances, is one of these places; it may easily be reached from the 70th st. station of the Second THEATRES AND OTHER AMUSEMENTS. 87 Av. El. Ry. Several others are grouped at the •155th st. terminus of the Sixth Av. El. Ry., and two prominent ones, Lion Park and Elm Park, are close by the 93d and 104th St. stations of the same line. The banks of the Harlem, near High Bridge, abound with them ; and there are others on the north bank of the Harlem, near its mouth, reached from the Second Av. bridge, and at Oak Point two miles beyond. The eastern and southern (Ft. Hamilton) outskirts of Brooklyn, and the beaches at Far Rockaway and Old Coney Island (boats to the Iron Pier) sustain many; also Staten Island and the Jersey Shore, particularly in Hoboken, at Fort Lee, and at lona Island in the Hudson. These differ in respectability not only among themselves, but at different times, and most of them should be avoided in the evening by anyone who cares to dance in an irreproachable company. The dancing, in fact, is only an accessory to the games and beer drinking, without which these places would do a poor business. In the Bowery are many so-called "gardens," where beer-drinking and music goes on every evening. The oldest, largest and best of these is the Atlantic Garden, just below Canal st. This is frequented mainly by Germans, and charges no admission fee, except one of ten cents to the gallery. Fair music is given by an orchestra of young women, and good order is always maintained. Of the same class, but frequented by people better dressed, at least, is the roof garden of the Casino (theatre), at Broadway and 39th St., already mentioned. Beer drinking and beer making has vastly increased in New York, daring the last twenty years, to the diminution of the drinking of stronger spirits. Lager beer saloons arc ubiquitous and almost countless, and many of them are elegantly fitted up. Koster & Bial's, 6th av. and 24th st. (down-stairs) is a curious imitation of an old German bier stuhe, well worth seeing. A very quiet and pleasant room, where ladies and children go with their husbands or escorts, is on E. i8th st. near the corner of Third av., and a long catalogue of others might be given. The breweries are mainly on the East River bank, uptown ; but some extensive ones are established in Brooklyn and on Staten Island. It is re]3orted that over 6,000,000 barrels of malt-liquors are consumed annually in New York and its im- mediate neighborhood. The uniform price is 5 cents a glass; sometimes a double-glass or " schooner," is given for five cents, in which case the quality is very poor. The " bock," widely advertised in the spring, is an extra brew, more intoxicating than ordinary lager. Many bar-rooms in New York are widely famous among men about town. That of the Hoffman House has an even wider reputation. Stewart's, at 8 Warren St., has some paintings of great merit, which are open to the inspection of ladies from 9 to II o'clock in the morning. The "Fog Horn " at 23d st. and Ninth av. is extraordinary in its own way ; and many others, celebrated for one thing or an- other, can be pointed out by any hotel clerk. (See Night Ramble.) V. RACING AND ATHLETIC SPORTS. ENERAL interest in out-door sports has increased an many associations devoted to them have been organ- ized. The most important of these are those of Turf and Turfmen. Horse-racing in the state of New York is regu- ~ lated by law, inasmuch as the law regulates bet- ting, and without betting there is no racing. The legitimate season opens on May 15, and closes on Oct. 15, between which dates the sport goes on without intermission. After October 15 New Jersey monopolizes everything. The metropolitan circuit comprises nine race tracks, all within an hour's ride of the city. Six of these, four in New York and two in New Jersey, are open in the regular season. The others — all in New Jersey — are known as winter tracks, and racing of an inferior quality is seen there in and out of season, rain or shine, hail storm or blizzard. Brooklyn Jockey Club. — The first, in the spring, of the popular courses to be thrown open to the public is the Gravesend track of the Brooklyn Jockey Club, where the spring meeting begins on May 15, and the fall meeting on September 16, each lasting two weeks. The track is a plain oval, one mile in circumference, and it has the reputation of being the fastest track of that shape in the United States- On it the mile-and-a-quarter record has been lowered twice. Racing is conducted here on the strictest business principles. Little attention is paid to the social ele- ment. The club house, for members and guests, is an unpretentious place, where an excellent luncheon is served free. Drinks are expected to be paid for. The president of the club is Philip J. Dwyer, head of the great racing firm of Dwyer Brothers, who are the largest stockholders. H. D. Mclntyre, the secretary and handicapper, is noted for his close finishes. The track is situated about half way between Brooklyn and Coney Island, on RACING AND ATHLETIC SPORTS. 89 the line of the Prospect Park and Coney Island Railroad. It is just n\ miles from the New York City Hall, in an air line, but cannot be reached from that point in less than 50 minutes. There are numerous ways of reaching i Route No. I is the pleasantest. It is called the "Culver Route." Boats leave the foot of Whitehall st. (near the Battery), every 30 minutes, and sailing through the Bay in the direction of the Narrows, connect with trains on the Manhattan Beach Division of the Long Island Railroad at Bay Ridge. All trains land pa,s- sengers in the rear of the grand stand. Ask for " Culver " tickets. Route No. 2 — Cross East River at 34th st., and take special race trains on the Long Island road. These trains have parlor cars attached, chairs in which cost 25 cents extra each way. Route No. 3 — Cross the big bridge and take horse car or elevated road for the Flatbush Av. station of the Long Island road, whence special race trains run dfrect to the course at short intervals. Route No. 4 — Cross the Brooklyn Bridge and take the Vanderbilt Av. car, or the Fifth Av. branch of the elevated road for 20th st. The car stops at the sta- tion of the Prospect Park and Coney Island road, but the nearest point on the elevated road is four blocks away, requiring a short walk or drive. Trains on the P. P. & C. I. R. R. run to the course every 15 minutes. A view of Greenwood Cemetery is obtained on this route. Route No. 5 — " Sea Beach Route." Practically the same as Route No. i. Fol- low the same directions, but ask for " Sea Beach " tickets. Round trip tickets to the track range between 35 and 50 cents. Admission to the grand stand, $1.50 ; paddock badges, 50 cents extra. The principal races of national interest at Gravesend are the Brooklyn Jockey Club Handicap and the Great American Stakes, in the spring, and the Oriental Handicap and First and Second Specials in the fall. New York Jockey Club. — The track of this club is at Westchester, N. Y. Racing begins here, spring and fall, at the close of the Gravesend meetings — May 30, and October i, respectively. This is the most expensive and best appointed race-course in the world, John A. Morris, of the Louisiana Lottery, having built it on an elaborate scale at a cost of some $2,000,000. It is a track of magnificent distances, and is superbly equipped. The splendid grandstand seats 10,000 peo- ple. The club has absorbed the fashionable membership of the American Jockey Club, which went out of existence in 1889, and now has over 2,000 names on its register. It is Mr. Morris's intention to increase this number to 5,000. The club-house is a marvel of convenience and elegance, and is rapidly becoming a center of social functions. Mr. Morris leases the track to the New York Jockey Club at a nominal figure. The president of the club is H. De Courcy Forbes, and T. H. Hock is secretary. The handicapping is done by Mr. Vosburg. The track is if miles around and has a straight stretch f mile long, called the " Eclipse Course," over which the Great Eclipse Stakes, and, in fact all short races are run. The grade of this straightaway is unqsually steep and on it the half, five- 90 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. eighths and three-quarter-mile records, which stood untouched for years on other courses, have been far outdone. The course is twelve miles from the City Hall, on the Harlem River Branch of the New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad, and is easily reached in three ways : Route No. I — Take either the Second Av. or Third Av. elevated road and go to 129th St., then walk over the bridge to the Harlem River station, whence special race trains are dispatched at intervals of ten minutes. The time from the City Hall is about 50 minutes. Route No. 2 — By special trains from the Grand Central Station in 42d st. (The Harlem road is building a branch to the course which will be ready for trains by May 30). Route No. 3 — By private conveyance or public hack over the Southern Boule- vard, from 133d St. and Third av., a drive of five miles. Fare for the round trip is 50 cents, by rail. A seat in a hack costs $1. Carriages may be hired for $ij to %\q for the afternoon. Admission to the grand stand .$1.50. Paddock badges, 50 cents extra. Coney Island Jockey Club — [Track at Sheepshead Bay, L. I.) The spring meeting of the Coney Island Jockey Club begins on June 17 and the fall meeting on August 30. Compared with the immense buildings and long reaches of West- chester, the Sheepshead track is a pocket edition of a race-course, — William K. Yftnclerbilt's pogk^t edition. It has Jiitherto been the most popiil^r course iii the RA CING A ND A THL E TIC SPOR TS. 91 metropolitan circuit. Here the young American classic, The Suburban, is run in June, bringing together all the stars of the turf. This race, the weights for which are announced on February i of each year, excites wider interest among the turf- men than any other race run in this country. It is the only race, with the excep- tion of the Brooklyn Jockey Club Handicap, on which there is any considerable amount of ante-post betting. Books are opened on the Suburban as soon as the weights are out, and few men who bet deny themselves the satisfaction of taking a flyer at a long price — ^froni 50 to i to 500 to i. Other important and immensely popular races at Sheepshead are the Realization, valued at $40,000, run at the June meeting, and the Futurity, worth $60,000, run in the fall. These are two of the richest stakes in the world. Then there is the Volunteer Handicap, which gener- ally decides the three-year-old championship. The days on which these races are run are duly announced in the daily newspapers. Leonard W. Jerome, one of the pioneers and pillars of racing in America, is president of the Coney Island Jockey Club, and J. G. K. Lawrence is secretary, handicapper and general manager. The membership of the club is large, including a majority of the influential men of the city. The grounds, kept like a garden, are always beautiful and refreshing. The club-house is small, but the cuisine is unexcelled. There is a charge for wines, etc., but none for meals. The track, a mile and an eighth in circumference, and with a straight stretch of six furlongs, called the " P'uturity Course," is within a ten minutes walk of Coney Island, and only two miles from the track of the Brooklyn Jockey Club at Graves- end. It is on the line of the Long Island Railroad — Manhattan Beach Division— and is eight miles from the New York City Hall. The Brooklyn and Brighton Beach road runs within a quarter of a mile of the gates. Time from New York, about 50 minutes. To get to the course, follow the directions given for reaching the Brooklyn Jockey Club's grounds in routes No. i. No. 2 and No. 3, or go by- Route No. 4 — Cross the big bridge, take the Kings County FHevated Rail- road, get off at Franklin av. and walk two blocks to " Bedford Station," whence special race trains are dispatched every fifteen minutes. This is the quickest route, but No. i is the pleasantest. Route No. 5 — A drive from Brooklyn down Ocean av. to the gates of the course. The railroad fare is the same as to Gravesend— 35 to 50 cents the round trip. Admission to the grand stand, $1.50 ; paddock, 50 cents extra. Monmouth Park Association. — This track is at Monmouth Park, N. J. Monmouth Park is the Newmarket of America. The old course was abandoned in 1889 and a new one, elaborately equipped and much more extensive than any other in the United States — excepting possibly Westchester — has just been com- pleted to take its place. Every improvement known to racing is to be found here. The track is the only one in this country on which horpes run the reverse 92 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. way, that is, from left to right instead of from right to left, as on all other courses. There are in reality four tracks on these magnificent grounds, the main track being if miles around, while within it there is a cut-off, giving a mile-and-a-quarter oval ; a straight track of six furlongs, running diagonally across the field, and a mile-and-three-eighths stretch with a slight curve near the centre. Monmouth Park is forty-two miles from New York and about a mile from the main line of the New York and Long Branch Railroad. Special trains make the trij) in an hour. The racing usually begins on the Fourth of July and continues three days a week till August 28. The meeting always attracts the best racing material, and many notable contests occur. The great prizes are the Lorillard Stakes and the Omnibus Stakes, for three-year-olds, the Junior Champion Stakes, for two-year- olds, and the Champion Stakes, for three-year-olds and upward. Besides these there are stakes for horses of all ages which invariably produce exciting sport. The president of the association is A. J. Cassatt. H. G. Crickmore (" Krik ") is the secretary. The handicapping is done by Mr. Vosburg. The general man- agement of the course is in the hands of D. D. Withers, who is assisted by T. M. Croft. These men conduct the sport with a business exactitude that has made Monmouth Park the favorite track with horse owners. The new grand stand is a commodious and handsome structure. The club has only a few members besides the stockholders, but they are men of prommence in business and the professions. The club house is an invitmg place, where excel- lent dinners and luncheons are served. Monmouth is easily reached in three ways. Route No. I — By way of the Pennsylvania R. R., special race trains leaving Jersey City at convenient hours. Route No. 2— By way of the Central R. R. of New Jersey, special trains going direct to the course at short intervals. Route No. 3 — By way of Sandy Hook. Steamers leave the foot of Rector st. every hour, connecting at the Hook with trains on the New Jersey Southern R. R., which run to the course. This is one of the most delightful excur.sions that can be made out of New York. Tickets for one route are good on the others both going and returning. Fare f-or the round trip, including admission to the field, $1.50; grand stand, ^i extra; paddock badge $1.50. New Jersey Jockey Club.— Track at Elizabeth, N. J., reached by special trains on the Central R. R. of N. J. Linden Park Blood Horse Ass'n. — Track at Linden Park, N. J., reached by special trains on the Pennsylvania R. R. Brighton Beach Racing Ass'n. — Brighton Beach, Coney Island. Regular trains pn the Brooklyn and Brighton Beach R. R. RACING AND ATHLETIC SPORTS. 93 Passaic County Agricultural Society. — Track at Clifton, N. J. Special trains on the Erie R. R. Hudson County Jockey Club. — Track at Guttenberg, N. J. Reached by street cars (35 minutes) from Hoboken ; and by a "dummy" train from the West Shore R. R. depot, Weehawken. Turfmen's Resorts. — Not since the closing of the American Jockey Club's " subscription rooms," seven or eight years ago, has there been a social club nor any place where racing men resort. Theso-cailed club-rooms of the several metro- politan racing associations are simply secretaries' offices, where the boards of governors and executive committees meet to transact business The places where turfmen congregate at night to " talk horse " are the lobbies of the St. James, Hoffman, Coleman, Gilsey and Sturtevant hotels, all in Broadway between 25th and 30th sts. At the St. James, between the hours of 7 and 1 1 p. m., every racing man of any consequence may be seen. Persons desiring to see local stables may do so by visiting the race tracks at Westchester, Sheepshead Bay and Gravesend, where they will be courteously received by the superintendents in charge. As the stables move from place to place during the season, following the meetings in their order around the circuit, it is impossible to locate them permanently. The Riding Club of New York is the largest as well as the most exclusive in the country, and now occupies the largest and finest club-house in the world devoted to riding. It is between Fifth and Madison avs., is of brick, four stories high, and elegantly arranged. A ring, 100 x 105 ft. and stables capable of accommodating nearly 200 horses adjoin the house. Strangers interested in driving and riding may enjoy both in Central Park. The East and West drives are thronged, during the afternoon, with every description of vehicles, and the bridle-paths are crowded with cavalcades of horsemen. The most popular drive, however, is upper Seventh av. from Central Park northward to McComb's Dam bridge, over Harlem River. Here may be seen every day all the noted trotting men in the city, speeding their horses over the splendid thor- oughfare, which, by common consent, has been set apart for their use. To reach this drive take the Sixth Av. El. Rv. to 125th st. The Parade of the Coaching Club on the last Saturday in May of each year, is a brilliant show of drags, uniforms, and toilets and can be seen by any one who will take the trouble to go to Central Park at the advertised hour. This club dates from 1876, and has now some 35 coaches, several of which are out on fine days in the Park, and at the races. Taiidem drivers have also formed a club with a strong membership, a full account of which, with illustrations, may be consulted in The Cosmopolitan for July, i88g. Fox-hunting has taken a firm hold upon the affections of the rich young people 94 GUIDE TO NFAV YORK CTTY. of this city and neighborhood, who have leisure and money to devote to it. The " hunts " are completely organized, on English models, and the runs (which consist in following for a while an anise-seed bag dragged over the ground to afford the hounds an imitation scent, and then turning loose a captive fox) are made on the plains of Long Island and in Essex Co., N. J. Illustrated articles on Cross Coun- try Riding in America, in The Century for July, 1886; and on Hunting, in The Cosmopolitan for May, 1889, give full information Kabint Coursing, another imported and aristocratic sport, has been begun by a club possessing grounds near Garden City, L. I., but has met with much opposition. Yachting, Boating and Fishing. The contiguous rivers and ocean give New Yorkers inclined to sailing, boating and fishing abundant opportunities for such sport ; it is rare, however, that any- thing "popular," like the watermen's races on the Thames, is heard of here; but there is an interest in sailing regattas Yacht Clubs. — The oldest and largest yacht-club is the JVeTH York, now housed in the old Municipal Club building at 67 Madison av. A remarkable collection of models is shown, and many trophies, foremost among them being the " America Cup," which has been the cause of several international contests. The Club-Course, where the mternational as well as local contests are sailed is just outside the harbor. The club has over 250 vessels in its fleet, and gives regattas each spring and fall, which are generally attended by excursion steamers carrying spectators. The charge is small and sailing hours are duly advertised. The Larchmont Yacht Club, the Seawanhaha, the American, the Atlantic, the Harlem and several minor clubs are in the neighborhood of the city. They have club houses, maintain fleets and give regattas. Among the most interesting are the Corinthian races, started by the Seawanhaka Club where the boats are manned and sailed by the amateur owners and their friends, without professional assist- ance. In addition to the regattas in the harbor, several clubs make annual cruises to the watering places along the New England coast. A yacht agency exists at 45 Beaver .St., where any one may charter a yacht, steam or sailing, for the season, or for a single cruise, and the cost is said not to be much larger than the maintenance of a family party at a fashionable seaside or mountain hotel dur- ing the same length of time. Rowng is very popular here, naturally enough. The banks of the middle stretch of Harlem River are lined on either side with large and well-arranged boat- houses, and every day, at any time, the oarsmen may be seen practicing in shells or working-boats. Columbia College Boat Club has a large house on the west bank of the river, at the terminus of Eighth av. ; the Nassati, the Gramercy, and others are situated near by. The visitor interested in aquatics will always be RA CING A ND A THL E TIC SPOR TS. 95 hospitably received at any of these houses. Regattas are held here spring and fall, on varying dates. There are boat clubs in Brooklyn, having their head- quarters at the foot of Court st. ; prominent among these is the Alcyone Boat Chib. The Argonauta has its headquarters at Bergen Point, N. J. On the Passaic River, beyond New York, will also "be found a fine, smooth sheet of water, the banks of which are lined with boat-houses. Boats can always be hired for an hour's row on the Harlem, and at the Battery; but no one unacquainted with the tidal currents, and the impetuous habits of tugs and steamboats, ought to venture out into the harbor, unattended by a professional waterman. All along the Hudson shore opposite, and above the city, and in the waters about Staten Island and along the adjacent shore of New Jersey, good opportunities for boating may be found. About 50 cents an hour is the ordinary charge for a fair-sized row-boat. Canoeing also, has attained a great vogue of late years, and there are several clubs, with a local magazine (The American Canoeist, Brentano's) devoted to their affairs. Fishing in Salt Water, at proper times and seasons, affords a day's recrea- tion, now and then, to thousands of busy men, and often attracts enthusiastic anglers, who, living in the interior, take advantage of their visit to New York to enjoy a sport novel to them. Striped bass may be caught with a rod and reel, and crab bait, in Coney Island Creek (Van Licklanl station, Prospect Pk. and Con. Isld. R. K.) and at Cos Cob, 31 m. from New York, on New Haven R. R. Weakfish are said to be plenty in Newark Bay, the best fishing ground being by Newark Bridge. Better hire a boat at Bergen end of bridge and fish from boat under bridge on the side /'('T^w/v/ which tide is running. Best ]ilaces are the "500"' and " 1,000" ft. sec- tions. Use shedder crabs for bait. Another good place is " Robins' Reef," near the Lighthouse. Also " .Sand Island," which is a point running south "from Bed- loe's Island. Another, "The Plot," which lies between Bedloe's Island and Communipaw. All these places are good for striped bass and weakfish. At Princess Bay, accessible by the Staten Island Railroad, by boat from foot of Whitehall St., stopping at Gifford's station (fare 25 cts., distance, 12 miles), any quantity of weakfish may also be caught. See Clifford at this place. At Garrett Smith's, a station on the Long Island Railroad, this side of Rockaway Beach, weakfish, bluefish, and sheepshead may be caught in plenty. Bluefishing, perhaps the most exciting of all salt water angling in this latitude, is to be enjoyed in the spring along the south shore of Long Island, by chumming and by the use of rod and reel. Bay Shore, or any other station on the Great South Bay is a good starting point. Fishing of a less ambitious kind may be undertaken almost anywhere. At certain times the less frequented wharves and projections of the city water-front are lined with men and boys catching eels and several kinds of small fish, and part- ies go to City Island, Whitestone, various places in the Hudson, to the Kill von Kull, all along the Staten Island shore, Shrewsbury and Sandy Hook ; while adver- tisements will be seen in the newspapers of almost daily steamboat excursions for fishing to the " banks " off Sandy Hook. 96 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Athletics. Several private gymnasiums exist, one of the best of which is Wood's in 28th st. near Fifth av. The V. M. C. A. have a very fine gymnasium, open to subscribers, in their central building and another in the Railroad Men's branch at Madison av. and 45th st. ; and a club named Atnerkan has been formed of Y. M. C. A. men, which gives annual exhibitions. The Westside, Olympia, Pastime and Cal- edonian clubs also give athletic exhibitions. Of these the most widely known is the Caledonian, which has a club-house on Jackson Square, and celebrates annual public contests in Jones' Wood, where peculiarly Scotch sports are given in cos- tume, in addition to the regular program of running, sprint and long-distance races, hurdle-races, the tug of war, standing jump, running jump, putting the heavy shot, walking matches, and similar feats. More pretentious than any of these, how- ever, is the National Association of Amatenr Athletes, whose headquarters is in this city (P. O. box 3478) and which controls athletic sports in this country, so far as possible in view of the opposition of the Afnatetir Athletic Union, -whost object is similar, and which is influential in this vicinity ; the latter's office is at 104 W. 55th St. The leading associations are the New York Athletic Club, the Manhattan Athletic Club, the Central Turn Verein and the Pastime Club. The New York Athletic Club dates from 1868, and hired rooms were at first occupied, but the organization grew, leased a gymnasium as a temporary club-house, and prospered steadily. Now the club occupies (since 1885) one of the finest buildings devoted to athletic club purposes in the world. It is on the corner of 55th st. and Sixth av., is built of brick and rises four full stories above the street. It measures on the ground 75 x 100 feet. The basement has six bowling- alleys, baths and massage-room, barber-shop, and a swimming-tank 20 x 60 feet. On the story above is the hzW-cafe, a large dining-room, and the parlors, the latter being furnished very handsomely. They are convenient to a reading-room, and to the billiard-hall. The locker floor, one ascent higher, contains 1,100 lockers, a private dining-room, a boxing den, and dressing and toilet rooms. Next above this is the gymnasium proper, a grand apartment the whole size of the building, fitted up with all the a];)pliances and conveniences that knowledge and money can procure ; elevated around the room is a running track, of rubber, with 21 laps to the mile. The highest story is only over a corner of the structure and is the kitchen, all odors thus being kej^t awav from the house ]5roper. The open-air grounds of the club were in Mott Haven until recently, when they have been sold "to the Y. M. C. A. and the club has taken possession of Travers Island, one of the Glen Island group in Long Island Sound, near New Rochelle, which is named after the witty Wm. R. Travers, a former president of the club. Costly improvements of this property have been made, adapting it to the regattas and competition games held semi-annually. J? A CING A ND A THL E TIC SPOR TS. 97 A younger athletic club is the Manhattan, which will soon occupy a magnifi- cent club-house at Madison av. and 45th St., to cost with its furnishings $750,000. The top floor will be devoted to a gymnasium 100 ft. by no ft., and there will be, besides, bowling-alleys, rifle-ranges, baths, a swimming tank, billiard-rooms, parlor and restaurant. A theatre will be found on the second floor. The grounds for exercise are at S6th st. and Eighth av., comprising an entire block, and the boat crews have a house on Harlem River. The Pastime Club is prospering, and boasts having given more champions and athletes of distinction to the record-making world, than any other club. Its grounds and house — once a church on the old Schermerhorn estate, perhaps a century ago — are on the bank of the East River at the foot of E. 66th st. ; and no social amusements are attempted to wean the members from their training. The Central Turn-Verein is the youngest, yet the strongest, of the thirteen German Turner societies in the city and neighborhood which constitute the New York District of the N. Am. Turner Union. The Central now has 2,500 members, and owns what it considers the best building in America for its pur- poses. It covers an area 175 x 100 feet square, is erected in the German Ren- naissance style, and the fa9ade, with its noble doorway, is ornamented with medal- lions of '* Father John " and " Frobel," the founder of kindergartens. "The aims of the society — gymnastics, educational and entertaining — find sufficient space in this hall to extend themselves on a sound basis. The hall con- tains, besides a superb gymnasium furnished with an abundant equipment of apparatus, a swimming-bath, a shooting-gallery, a special room for the fencing lessons, a fine ball room, the largest in the city, with a stage for theatrical per- formances, a number of meeting rooms, a reading-room with a library, bowling alleys, restaurant, and last, but not least, in its eastern wing a number of spacious school rooms, sufficient for any branch the society may add to its program." — Cosmopolitan Magazine, December, 1SS9. field Sports. Closely allied to athletics are the field sports, which are designed as games for pleasure rather than exercises in strength and skill. Of these the leader is Baseball, played daily in or near New York as long as weather permits. The grounds for both League and Brotherhood games are at Eighth av. and 155th St., the terminus of the Sixth Av. El. Ry. The day and hour of all games are abund- antly advertised. In Brooklyn the grounds are at Fifth av. and 3d st. (a station on the Fifth Av. line of the Brooklyn El. Ry.) and are easily reached. The results of all the championship games throughout the country are displayed during the summer on newspaper bulletins, and in many other public places, as fast as the score is received by telegraph ; and two or three evening newspapers print extra late edi- tions principally devoted to this class of news. 98 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Cricket has felt the general grovvtii of interest in out-door games. The city and its neighborhood counts a score or more clubs, the most important of which are the Staten Island, with grounds at Tompkinsville ; the St. George, at Hobo- ken; and the Manhattan, playing at Prospect Park. They are largely recruited from English and Scotch citizens, and many matches are played every summer. Tennis has hundreds of clubs, several of which have formed an association, which owns a fine building on 41st St., near Seventh av., with all conveniences for dressing, bathing, etc., and two full courts under a sky-lighted roof, which are rented for play to the associated clubs. For the extensive tennis grounds in Cen- tral and Prospect parks, see Parks. The Kacqtcet Club owns an elaborate house at Sixth av. and Twenty-sixth st., for the playing of its game (which bears some similarity to tennis) and also for social enjoyment. A Fencing Club has quarters at 19 W. 22d st., and details in regard to it may be found in The Centuyy for January, 1887. Bicycling and Tricycling are practiced by great numbers of young men and women in New York, of all classes of society ; and the Neiv York Bicycle Club is the founder of the American League of Wheelmen. The headquarters of this oldest club are at Broadway and 57th st. The Citizens' is at 58th st., near Eighth av., and the Ixion is at 4 E. 59th. Other clubs are, the Harlem lVheeh?ien and the Riverside. Although the public parks in all other large cities in the country were thrown open to bicyclers, Central Park remamed closed to them for a long while, but is now available at all times. The same is true of Prospect Park in Brooklyn. The avenues and boulevards and roads between 59th st. and Tarrytown, however, afford facilities for riding which bicyclers improve to the utmost. There are in the city now about 2,000 bicycle riders, and flourishing clubs exist in Brooklyn, Yonkers, and Newark, which join New York riders in races and parades. Rifle-Practice and Shooting. — The rifle shooting at Creedmoor, L. I., where is situated the range of the National Rifle Association, may interest military visi- tors, though the excitement of a few years ago in regard to it has subsided. Creedmoor is a small village on the Long Island R. R., 13J miles from New York, and on match days special trains run at short intervals. The range embraces 85 acres of level sodded ground, and has 30 iron targets, which can be shot at at any distance from 50 to 1,200 yards, and a large wind dial shows the direction of the wind. The whole is the property of the N. R. A., and there are two hotels where the associations using the range and the officers of the National Guard have rooms, and where arms and ammunition can be obtained. Each regiment of the first and second brigades of the National Guard is required to practice here a cer- tain number of times during the year. Each armory (see Milit.\ry) has a range- and all over the city are small shooting-galleries. RACING AND ATHLETIC SPORTS. 99 "Trap-shooting" clubs in New York and Brooklyn are the New York Gun Club, which shoots at Bergen Point, N. J. ; the Long Island Gun Club, which shoots at Dexter's, near Jamaica, Long Island; and the P'ountain Gun Club, which shoots at the Brooklyn Driving Park, near Coney Island. Hoboken also has one or more clubs for this sport. Lovers of highly-bred dogs will not forget that the Westminster Kennel Club holds an annual bench show of dogs, in February, usually in the American Insti- tute building, near the 65th st. station of the Third Av. El. Ry. This is a fashion- able " event," and great numbers of pets are seen, as well as all the larger classes of sporting and other dogs. This show (admission 50 cents) ought not to be missed by sportsmen or lovers of pets. An annual horse-show usually takes place in May. Winter Sports.— Whenever the weather is cold enough good skating is to be had, with much gayety, on the lake in Central Park, and on the sheets of water in the northern part of the city— especially Van Cortlandt Lake (N. Y. and North- ern R. R.). Snow enough for good coasting or tobogganing is very rare ; but there is often enough for short periods of sleighing, to the great profit of livery- VI. SUGGESTIONS AS TO SHOPPING. THE shopping district of New York, par excellence, is the quadrangle formed by Broadway from Union to Madison Square (the "ladies' half-mile"), West 23d st. to Sixth av., down that avenue to W. 14th St., and back tlirough that street to Union Sq. To this must be added a prolongation down Broadway as far as 8th St. In this round are the greatest shops, of every kind in New York, yet by no means all of them. On Broadway, between Astor Place and -Madison Sq., are Scribner's and other large book stores, Daniell's, Denning's (the old " Stewart's ") and McCreery's dry goods stores, Mitchell & Vance (gas fixtures and brass work), the bent-wood show rooms, and various other good shops, all below 14th St. Brentano's foreign book and periodical shop, Tiffany's treasure-house of jewels, Schubert's, Pond's and several other music stores, Sarony's gallery, Sypher's silver and art-work store. Van Tine's Japanese bazaar, Sloane's carpet warehouse, the enormous store of Arnold & Constable, are the most famous of those between 14th and i8th sts. From there to Madison Sq., among many of scarcely less note, are the Gorham Silverware Company, Herts Brothers (furni- ture), Morrison's, Lord & Taylor's, and Brooks Bros, (clothiers.) Turning down \V. 23d St., Putnam's, Button's and several other fine book stores are passed in succession, Horner's artistic furniture shop, and on the south side of the street a long line of elegant stores for the sale of cloths, fancy goods, furs and the like, among which Le Boutillier, Stern Brothers, McCutcheon and Gunther are perhaps the best known names. Sixth avenue is probably the busiest shopping district in the city. A continuous line of stores extends from 34th to loth, and between 23d and 14th are many famous ones, such as Ehrich's, Altman's, O'Neill's, and Simp- son, Crawford & Simpson's — all on the west side of the way. Macy^s marks a vortex of retail trade, at the southeast corner of 14th st. and Sixth av., where the crowd and noise under the elevated railway station each evening is almost frightful to a person not used to such scenes of harmless strife, where everybody seems panic-stricken to a countryman's eyes. The two blocks in 14th between Sixth av. and Broadway are filled on the soutii side with shops for the sale of dry goods. SUGGEsrrOMS AS TO SHOPPING. fancy articles and house-furnishings. Hearn's, Rothschild's, Le lioutillier's, and the Palais Royal— all near Sixth av.— are prominent among them. On the north. side of the street is a long line of florists bric-a-brac and furniture shops, and agencies for an endless variety of folding beds, in the midst of which are the dignified mansion and large grounds of the Van Buren family, once the home of Martin Van Buren, Presi- dent of the United States in 1832-36. Facing Union Square, on 14th St., are the Butterick Pattern Company and the Domestic Sewing Machine Co., while the Sin- ger, White, alid nearly every other prominent sewing machine company in the country have offices near by. Another special shopping district is in Grand St., east of the Bowery, where Ridley's, a branch of Lord & Taylor's, and other huge shops invite the custom of the East Side, and are patronized by thousands of ladies from the eastern district of Brook- lyn. It is supposed that prices, as a rule, are somewhat lower there than in Sixth av. even, while these are less than those prevailing on Broadway. The great feature of shopping in New York is the prevalence of huge bazaars, like Macy's, where every sort of thing is sold that a woman would want to buy for herself, for her family or for her house, except heavy furniture, general provis- ions and the outer clothing of her men-folks. Ridley, Altnian and other mer- chants keep the widest possible variety of dry goods and fancy .articles ; but Macy's is an immense bazaar rather than a single establishment — a federation of separate special salesrooms under the same roof and subjected to common regula- tions for mutual benefit rather than one store divided into departments, as at Wanamaker's, in Philadelphia, for example. Here the visitor will find telegraph and telephone offices, a place to leave parcels on payment of ten cents, retiring rooms, an immense luncheon-room with moderate prices, and a detective system which guards the customer from pick-pockets, while it protects the firm from thieving. The "first requisite in a successful shopper is to know what is wanted and strength of mind enough to resist buying what one does not need, simply because ON WEST FOURTEENTH STREET. GUIDE TO Nh W YORK CTTY. it is cheap. A study of Harper s Bazar, or some other of the fashion periodicals, will give all the hints needed a« to the fashions of the moment or a choice of ma- terials, before entering on a tour of inspection. In all stores goods of every description are openly displayed, and a quick eye will very often see what is wanted without giving one's self the trouble of useless questions. Certain stores, like Macy's, are considered cheaper than others ; but the variation in the prices of standard goods is very small, and not enough to make up for the annoyance of crowds, the loss of time, etc. Sometimes real bargains are to be met with, through some change of stock. But these are quite as likely to be found at the higher priced stores as at the bazaars, or general outfitting houses. Certain establishments are noted for special- ties: Arnold & Constable's for dress goods and gloves; Altman's, for underclothing, gowns, gown fittings and fancy articles; Rothschild's for millinery materials; McCutcheon's on 23d st. for linen goods; Morrison's for imported dress trimmings, and so on. These are among the higher priced stores, but they are much more trustworthy, and their goods more likely to be satisfactory, than are the cheaper places. It often happens that articles apparently cheap are found not so upon comparison with something elsewhere. The rule holds, that a good article will always cost what it is worth, no matter where you get it, and if less than a standard price is asked, the article is somehow inferior. Advertisements of wonderful bargains are often to be seen in the daily newspapers but in almost all cases these are delusive, or if really what they are represented to be the chance lasts only for a day or two. Unless one spends one's whole time in seeking for fortunate chances, a dollar can rarely buy more than a dollar's worth. A shopper should be as courteous to clerks and fellow shoppers as to guests in one's own drawing room, and complaints as to the incivility of floor-walkers and salesmen or saleswomen are most often heard from those whose own behavior has been open to criticism. It is to the interest of the proprietors to please everybody, but their employees are mortal, and the crowds, heat, and work are often irritat- ing. Be considerate, therefore, wait for your turn, speak pleasantly, do not push roughly forward, and above all else have a clear idea of what you want, and make a choice with as few words and as little overhauling of goods as possible, thus saving both time and friction. A pleasant manner will insure courteous and help- ful treatment in nearly all cases, even when the clerks are tired, and your own mind is perplexed by the many things spread before your eyes. Special Trade-districts, — A person interested in purchasing any special line of articles, and wishing to have an opportunity for wide selection, should consult the Business Directory, where the addresses and specialties of dealers are given under their appropriate heads. The tradesmen in each line are inclined to group themselves in this city as in other cities ; and a few hints as to where to look for the commoner divisions of trade maybe serviceable to the reader. Art-works and pictures— to begin at the head of the alphabet — are mainly to be seen in Fulton St., and in Fifth av. and on Broadway from 22d st. up ; painters' materials may SUGGESTIONS AS TO SHOPPING. 103 be bought in Fourth av. near loth st., in Sixth av. near 17th and elsewhere. For bric-a-brac look along upper Broadway and Fifth av. and near Wall st. Books center in Broadway below Sth, Astor Place, Fourth av. between Bible House and 14th St., and in 23d near Broadway (see Libraries). Catholic books and goods are sold principally in Barclay st., due to the fact that there was the first R. C. church (St. Peter's) in New York. Canary-birds and pet animals are nu- merous in the Bowery and among the Germans of the East Side, and in upper Sixth and Third avs. For Carpets go to Sloane's at Broadway and i8th st., and to the great dry goods and furniture stores generally. Clothing stores and tailors are scattered everywhere ; but the principal makers and dealers in ready- made clothing for men and boys are in Broadway between Bleecker and Canal sts., in the side-streets near there and opposite the City Hall. Chinese wares can be had in Mott st. and at the lower end of the Bowery, one of the best stores being up a narrow stairway at 10 Chatham sq. The Dry- goods district is along and west of Broadway, where $500,000,000 worth of merchandise, it is said, is some- times " in stock " at once. Drng stores are everywhere and alvvays conspicuous; the wholesale drug district is in lower Fulton st. and thence along Pearl and Water sts. to Hanover sq., where it mingles with the whole- sale Tobacco, Oil and Metal trade ; and the wholesale Grocers are clustered on the west side, where Hudson and West Broadway converge upon Chambers st. „. , . ,, J , £ ij ■ 'N DIVISION ST. Fishing-tackle and sportsmen s outfits are sold in Nassau St., above Fulton, in Fulton and in Park Place at Church st. ; Fire-artns in Broadway just above Chambers; and Fire-works in Park Place. Furnittire men and Florists are everywhere, especially in W. 14th and W. 23d sts., and on upper Broadway and Fifth av. Japanese goods abound in Broadway near Bleecker and above Union sq. P'or Jewels, silverware, watches and all such goods, search Maiden Lane and John st., which is nearly filled with the workshops and sales- rooms of jewelers and gold and silversmiths, and also visit Tiffany's, and the many other dealers near Union sq. Implements for lawn-tennis, base-ball and all out-door games and sports can be had in Park Place and Nassau st. ; and lumber is stacked in mountain piles along the East and North rivers. Leather at whole- sale occupies several blocks in " the swamp," just below the Brooklyn Bridge. For Millinery of the highest kind go to W^est 14th and 23d sts., and to the elegant importing shops along Fifth av. between 27th and 33d sts. ; but it is worth a lady's while, as a curious phase of the metropolis to walk a little way up Division st. east from Chatham sq., where scores of bonnet and trimming shops stand side by 104 GUTDE TO NEW YORK CITY. side, and in front of each a young woman or a little girl beseeching you to enter and buy and to jkiv no attention to "that thing" (her next-door rival), who insists that you shall examine her stock of headgear. Musical Iiistrtcttiettts are to be found in P'ulton st., Maiden Lane and along Broadway; and there are colo- nies of these merchants, and of small makers and repairers of musical instruments, in Broome st., in the Bowery and in E. Houston st. The Piano men are getting all together in splendid establishments on Fifth av. between 15th and 20th sts. and near Union sq. For Notions and fancy goods, search Broadway from Cham- bers to Bleecker St., and the " dry-goods district " generally : the silk men are mainly in Broome St., and its neighborhood just west of Broadway; and hat and glove makers assemble in up]:)er Church st. For Optical Instruments go to Fulton St. and Maiden Lane, and along lower South st. Paper and stationery at whole- sale is bought in Keade st. or near there, as a rule; but the cheapest place for stationery and office supplies and office furniture at retail is in Nassau st., or in the neighborhood of Washington Market. Pawn-brokers and junk-shops abound in Chatham St., the Bowery, and at the lower end of Sixth av., but they are scattered all over the poorer parts of the city; the \3xge.s\. Jniik-s/iops (where many curious trinkets may be picked up), are most frequent along the East River above and below Fulton Market. Pottery ivares of all kinds, and especially imported ceramic goods, are to be found at wholesale and retail in Park Place, Murray and Warren sts., and along Fifth av. and Broadway above Madison sq. For Pipes and amber articles go to Kaldenberg under the Astor House and Fulton st. Toys are best bought in Broadway and on 14th st. near Union sq. This list might, of course, be greatly extended, but it hardly seems necessary. New Yorkers know where to go to get special things at reduced rates, or of partic- *ularly good quality, and your town acquaintances can give you more hints in 15 minutes than a book could tell you in as many pages. E. J. DENNING & CO. SUCCESSORS TO A. T. Stewart & Co. ^RETAIL) r^^NEW YORK. -. DEALERS IN FOREIGN AND DOMESTIC DRY GOODS EVERY DESCRIPTION. ORDERS BY MAIL. Having a department organized specially for filling \^ I / orders sent by uiail from any part of the country, they •- — have superior facilities for conducting that branch of /\ N. the dry goods business, and can guarantee promptness and satisfaction in all cases. Dry Goods Delivered at all accessible Points Free of Mail or Express Charges. Samples and Information sent free on application. VII. THE CITY'S PARKS AND SQUARES. ' EW YORK glories in her parks, an congratulates herself that the fathers were wise enough to reserve so many small breathing spaces even in the most crowded parts of the city as her " squares " represent. There are no less than forty such spaces between the Battery and the Bronx devoted to sunlight and recreation, some of wide acreage, like the Central or Van Cortlandt, others mere breadths of paving, surrounding a tiny bit of green, as at Tackson sq., while a few are private grounds, of which Chelsea sq., at Ninth av. and 20th st. and Gramercy Park are examples. All the parks of the city are under control of a commission appointed by the Mayor : and this commission also has charge of the laying out and improvements of the streets and drives in the " annexed district." The policemen clothed in gray, who are on duty in all parks and public squares, are subordinate to this com- mission, and quite separate from the blue-coated city force, which affects to despise them intensely, and calls them " sparrow-chasers " ; nevertheless the Park Police are an effective and useful body of men. The ordinary annual expendi- tures in improvement of parks is between one and two hundred thousand dollars ; but in 1889, arrangements were completed for the installation and improvement of new parks north of the Harlem, by issuing nearly $10,000,000 of bonds by the city, and the money thus raised is now being expended on what in a few years will be- come a most beautiful series of woodland spaces reserved in the midst of the fast advancing cit}', connected by delightful drives or "parkways," and in some instances reached by steamboats on East River. Ultimately these parks will be connected with Brooklyn's systems by a bridge and boulevard. Battcrv Park, Bowling Green 2iwAJeannette Square, at the southern extremity of the island, and City Hall Park and the open area in front of The Tribuite building. io6 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. called Printing-house Square, are described elsewhere. Little spaces of green turf and trees, railed in and surrounded by busy streets, are found at the Five Points, on Duane St., on Beach St., at the foot of Canal st., in East Grand St., in front of the Cooper Union and near the foot of Christopher st. Abingdon Squa>e, where Eighth av. turns out of Hudson st., was at one time a fashionable locality ; and Jackson Square, where Hudson st., W. 13th st, and Greenwich av., intersect, is a good bourgeois neighborhood, largely inhabited by Scotchmen, whose Caledonian clubhouse over-looks it. Washington, Union, Madisoji and Stnyvesant squares, and Bryant and Graniercy parks, will be described in the " Tour of the City." Tompkins Square is a space on the East Side, some ten acres in extent, between avenues A and B, and 7th and loth sts., which has lately been improved, and will in time become a park of great beauty. It is the evening resort of the vast popu- lation of wage workers who live in its neighborhood, and music is furnished by the city on Saturday afternoons. Central Park. Central Park covers, by its name, not only the 1^ square miles of park proper, but the additional space called Manhattan Square, west of Eighth av., where the American Museum of Natural History stands; that Museum itself; the Metro- politan Museum of Art; the Obelisk; the Menagerie; the Croton reservoir, and the fashionable Drive of the city. Means of access to Central Park. — The Broadway and Seventh av., the Sixth av., the Eighth av. and the Belt Line horse-cars go directly to the lower end of the park. The Eighth av. line runs along the whole length of its western side ; and the Fourth av. line (on Madison av.), is only one short block east of it. The Fifth av. stages go to its main entrance, and along its eastern side as far as the Met. Mus. of Art, at 8ist st. The Sixth Av. El. Ry. reaches the foot of the Park at 58th St. by many direct trains, or by a change from Harlem trains at 50th st. ; it also runs along the western side of the park on Ninth av., with a station opposite the Museum of Nat. History and the 77th st, gate on that side. The Third Av. El. Ry. is four blocks east of the park ; its 67th st. station is most convenient for the Menagerie and lower part of the park, and its 84th st. station for the Art Museum and Obelisk. Lower Park. — Central Park is divided into two nearly equal halves, a north- ern and a southern, by the high ground around the Belvedere and the sunken road at 79th St., beyond which, northward, are the reservoirs and the upper park, to which, however, a stranger does not ordinarily extend his walk. The principal entrance to the park is at 59th st. and Fifth av., where the Drive begins and where the park phaetons start. This is called the Scholars' Gate, and it is appropriately PARKS AND SQUARES— CENTRAL PARK. 107 adorned by a colossal bust of Alex, von Humboldt, at the unveiling of which, in 1874, Prof. Louis Agassiz made a memorable address. At Eighth av. and 59th st., is another spacious entrance, where the statue of " Commerce," presented to the city in 1865 by Mr. Stephen B. Guion, may be seen. Gates will also be found where Seventh and Sixth avs. abut upon the park. The Scholars' Gate (Fifth av. and 59th St.) is the best starting point for a ramble, and the reader is advised to make his way along the broad thoroughfare leading inward from that entrance, which in five minutes will bring him to the Menagerie. — The living animals displayed here will hold his attention a longer or shorter time according as his interest in them is large or small. They are grouped in small houses around the old Arsenal, a picturesque building now containing a stable and police-station in the basement, offices for the administra- tion of the park and vivaria on the upper floors, and a meteorological observatory of much consequence in the attic; it is close to the gate at 64th st. and Fifth av. In front of it are houses and cages containing the monkeys, the parrots and other tropical birds, and certain cats and other small animals that require warmth ; a cage of eagles ; a large, wire-fronted aviary, and several pens containing buffalos, deers, etc. In the rear of the Arsenal are pens for the deers, bisons, oriental buffalos and other quadrupeds ; the great tank for the sea-lions ; and exposed cages with wolves, etc. In winter many of these cages and paddocks are unoccu- pied, the animals that inhabit them in warm weather having been put under shelter. The lion-house, containing the lions, tigers, leopard, etc., the two- horned rhinoceros, and the interesting pair of hippopotami (which are provided with a huge tank), is among these cages, and forms the central attraction to most visitors. In the rear of that is the deer-house and adjoining paddocks, where elks, giraffes, oriental goats, etc., are lodged ; and behind that the house for the elephants, and the pond and paddock where the storks and some other large birds live. The bear pits are hollowed into the side of a rocky ledge near by, and form an unfailing attraction to the children. The zoological collection is not very large, and, now that " Crowley " and " Kitty Crowley," the chimpanzees, have succumbed to the climate and passed away, no species of extraordinary interest is included. In winter many animals belonging to circuses are boarded here, and form a part of the exhibition, which, consequently, is much more extensive at that season than in summer. It is well worth seeing at all times, however, and Superintendent Conklin, who has been in charge many years, is entitled to great credit for his management of the menagerie. It is probable that the whole collection of living animals w'ill soon be moved to some other place in the park, but this matter is at present undecided. The Mall, Esplanade, etc. — In moving about the menagerie, glimpses are caught of the winding, rocky shored piece of water at the southern end of the io8 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. park called The Pond ; it is often extremely pretty, and a short walic to the bridge in the rear of the Menagerie should be taken, in order to look at it. This done turn your face northward, pass beneath the arch that carries a drive over the main pathway and follow its windings onward until it brings you out upon the Mall. This is a broad level space of rather high ground, a quarter of a mile long, planted with parallel rows of stately elms, between which broad and straight paths of asphalt, lined with seats, run straight to where the prospective is beauti- fully closed by the carved balustrades of the Terrace, over which, in the remote distance, rises the tower and flag of the Belvedere. Southward, a charming glimpse is caught, through the trees, of the tall apartment-houses on 59th st. and of the roofs and steeples along P'ifth av. At your left stretches the undulating iawns o.f The Green, dotted here and there, perhaps, with pasturing sheep, under the faithful watch of " Old Shep " — a dog whose fame has gone far and wide {See St. NicJiolas, Vol. XI. Part II., page 747.) Below the Green, nearer to the Eighth av. entrance, is the ball ground, devoted to boys' amusements ; but it is invisible from here and the noise of its shouting players does not despoil the silence. At the lower end of the Mall is a statue of Shakespeare, by J. Q. A. Ward, erected there in 1872, on the 300th aniversary of the poet's birth; and just above it, fac- ing each other, are statues of Burns and Scott, both in sitting postures, and appropriately borne upon pedestals of Aberdeen granite. Both were modeled by John Steele, of Edinburgh, and presented to New York by resident Scotchmen. Ward's " Indian Hunter " stands somewhat behind the Burns statue, looking eagerly toward the Green ; and a few rods up the Mall is the bronze statue of Fitz Greene Halleck, modeled by Wilson MacDonald. The Mall is the great promenade of the park, and on summer afternoons is always filled with loiterers, while goat carriages, carrying happy youngsters, race up and down one of the side- paths. At the upper end is the Kiosk, in which, on Sunday afternoons, a band plays in the presence of great throngs of listeners of every class of society ; and significantly overlooking this musical spoc is the bust of Beethoven, unveiled with much ceremony in July, 1884. At the upper end of the Mall are The Terrace and Lake. — Here was naturally a valley, winding east and west, and the landscape gardeners took advantage of it to make a lake, which winds about among rocky ridges in a bewildering and beautiful way. On this side the high- est bank is bordered by a curving balustrade of freestone masonry, elaborately carved and half overgrown with trailing viies, from which a broad stairway, with richly carved panellings at the side, leads down through a covered court to a large esplanade (the Lower Terrace) which borders upon the lake and surrounds the noble Bethesda Fountain. This fountain was made in Munich, from designs by Miss Emma Stebbins, and suggests its meaning at a glance — an angel poised .rf^H vr IN CENTRAL PARK. PARKS AND SQUARES— CENTRAL PARK. 109 gracefully over, and blessing the waters that gush naturally from the rocks beneath her feet and then fall into an ornamental basin. At a little distance are seen the Boat-houses, where one may seat himself in a barge, after paying ten cents, and be rowed the round of this pretty sheet of water by oarsmen dressed as though they had just stepped off the deck of H. M. S. Pinafore. In winter, whenever the ice has been proved safe, this lake is illumi- nated and skating is permitted. Leaving the Terraces by the broad path that leads through flowers and shrubbery toward the left, the Narrows of the lake are crossed by a bridge, whence an exquis- ite landscape is opened, and we plunge into the rocky and wooded mazes of The Ramble. — Here no " guide " is wanted, — the very genius of the place, which has been left as wild as possible, and whose paths wind in and out most confusingly or come to a sudden halt against the rocks or lake shore, is to wander without method or care till you are rested from the formality and crowd of the town, "so near and yet so far." A noble bust of Schiller; rustic cabins set upon lofty points of rock; narrow gorges hung with blossoming vines; splashing waterfalls ; a gloomy cave ; thickets, flowers, birds, woodland sights and sounds — these are the features of The Ramble. The picking of flowers, and the breaking of twigs are wisely forbidden, and the rule is enforced by the park police, so that the botanist in search of specimens must not hope to increase his collection here ; but every variety of tree and shrub is well labeled with the common and the scien- tific name, so that one may, if he chooses, make an hour's stroll fruitful in botani- cal information. It is a fine place for birds, too, and they are wonderfully tame — even the wary spring migrants which throng in the Ramble, especially during May and June. Signs here and there help the rambler to find his way. One of these directs him to the Carrousel— a place for children's games, with swings, merry-go-rounds, etc. Another sign directs him to the Dairy, near by, where milk, bread and butter, cheese and the like may be bought for a luncheon. The Belve- dere is not far away, along shady paths and over bare rocks ; and it should not be forgotten. The view from its tower is worth far more than the small exertion of climbing to the outlook. The reservoirs seen at the foot of the tower and northward are those which first receive the Croton water, and whence it is dis- tributed. From the Belvedere a path down an avenue of thorn-trees, which com- pletely overarch it, leads eastward to the main thoroughfare, whence it is only a short distance to the Art Museum and Obelisk at 82d st. and Fifth av., a description of which will be found a few pages ahead. Returning from the Belvedere to the Ramble, keep along the edge of the Lake, cross another bridge, pausing a moment to look at the swans, and walk straight on to the gate at 77th st. A large unfinished stone and brick building faces you on the opposite side of Eighth av., surrounded by wide and regular lavvns. The no GULDE TO NEW YORK CITY. green space is Manhattan Square, an annexation to Central Park ; and the uncom- pleted building is the nucleus of The American Museum of Natural History. — What appears now — large as it is — is only a beginning. The entire building, as designed, will occupy the whole of Manhattan sq. and embrace four great courts, surrounding the present brick building. It will be made wholly of stone, brick and iron, and thus be absolutely fire-proof and a safe depository for the valuable libraries and collection of specimens illustrating man's career upon the earth, and the mineral, animal and vegetable kingdoms. The architecture will be imposing, and a lofty dome will rise above the central structure. The present entrance is in the east front, and planked walks lead to the door from the Park gate, and also from the 8ist st. station of the Sixth Av. El. Ry. (Ninth av. and 8ist st.). The admittance is free, and the museum is open on Wednesday and Saturday evenings until lo o'clock. The general offices are on the first floor, near the entrance. Pamphlets descriptive of the geological and ornithological collections, and of the Jessup collection of woods, may be pur- chased at the door. The system of labelling is so complete, however, that these are not required by the ordinary visitor. The first or ground-story hall is occupied by the collection of Mammals, begin- ning with skulls and skeletons of certain savage races. Next follow some natu- rally mounted figures of a family of orang-utans of Borneo. " The full-grown male and female, and others of different ages, are here, including a baby which swings in the tree-top. The tree, foliage, and fruit are made in imitation of spec- imens brought from the East ; and a rude platform, or nest, of leaves and small boughs is made to represent the exact method of construction [of its bed by this ape] .... Adjoining cases contain many specimens of apes and monkeys, fol- lowing down the scale to the lemurs ; many were mounted by Verreaux, of Paris, who studied their attitudes in their native wilds." Then, according to the classifica- tion, come the insect-eating bats, moles, shrews, hedgehogs and the like. Next are the carnivorous beasts — the cats leading, with the lion at their head. All are descriptively labelled, and the taxidermy is artistic. " To make this museum a means of conveying useful knowledge," says Dr. Holder, curator of this department, " care has been exercised in arranging the groups that an unbroken connection — so far as is possible in the present light of science — may be preserved. Many of the great beasts not yet exhibited are represented by some important part, as the skeleton or skull, which is placed where the animal would belong, and suggests its alliance with others. ... It is the purpose of the trustees to secure, as rapidly as possible, the most perfect ex- amples of our American mammals, not, by any means neglecting others, . . . An admirable idea, carried throughout the collections, is the introduction of mounted skeletons at stated intervals, a glance at which shows, in connection with the exterior development, the reason why the animals are so arranged. No one, by PA RK'S—MUSE UM OF NA TURA L HIS TOR Y. in this aid, could fail to recognize a variety of the cat family, nor would affinities of the wolf or fox with the dog be questioned. There are many instances where the affinities are more obscure, and it is the purpose of the arrangement in cases to render the subject of classification more familiar to visitors. The specimens are the best that can be procured, and many are exceedingly rare. They are mounted on handsome stands and plainly labelled, the common name being jslaced more conspicuously than the scientific. Notes appertaining to the history of the speci- mens, for the use of students, are preserved on the bottom of the stands and in a book kept for that purpose." This hall is so crowded, and so subject to change, that no directory to it can be given ; but cases will ]je found containing a great number of quadrupeds in addition to those mentioned, the names of which are attached. In the same great room will be found the display of reptiles, amphibians (frogs, turtles, etc.), and of fishes, — the last chiefly by their skeletons or bodies preserved in alcohol. " The skeletons of fishes are among the gems of the collection, in the sense of mechan- ism as well as scientific value. They are split, and one half is wired on aboard, each bone independently, and so adjusted that it may be removed singly for exam- ination." The second floor is reached by a broad stairway, or by the elevator near the entrance, and is devoted on the flioor to Birds, and in the gallery to Ethnology. It is a beautiful hall, filled with interesting objects, and will engross the larger part of the visitor's time. " Earnest attention has been given here to a subject much neglected hitherto in museums, the tasteful adaptation of the necessary furniture. We see here that everything is subordinate to the purpose of exliibiting the objects in the best possi- ble manner. The specimens being the best that can be obtained, they more satis- factorily stand the test behind the flood of light admitted through the great glass- jjlate doors. The old method of native bough and moss accessories is abandoned, its too naturalistic litter proving a nuisance in a well ordered museum. Accord- ing to the present method the objects are regarded as so many works of art. They must be mounted for exhibition, and must be labeled and subject to being placed readily in the course of classification. They must be separately mounted that students may easily handle them. In view of these requirements a specimen, say a bird, is mounted on a perch or stand, and one that shall be in its pro])ortions and purposes what the pedestal is to a bust or statue. These are planned to be proportionate to the specimen. The perch is sufficiently large to allow the feet to clasp naturally, and all mechanical supports are kept out of sight. " Unlike the usual custom, the experiment has been tried here of placing the l^rds of each country in groups by themselves. This method is not only pleasing in its effect, but gives an impression to the great numbers who visit the museum of the distribution of life. Drawings, written descriptions, and classified skeletons will be added to aid the student in ornithology." — Holder. You start on the left hand as you enter with a nearly complete collection of the birds of North America. The song-birds come first in the list, followed by the crows and jays, woodpeckers, swifts, etc., and the many doves and pigeons. 112 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Next follow the vultures and other birds of prey, closing with the owls ; then the game birds of all parts of the continent, the beach-birds and marsh-fowl, the ducks and geese, and last of all the wild and oddly shaped cormorants, pelicans, the huge albatross, tiny petrel and awkward penguin. Among the last named, occu- pying a small case by itself, is one of only four specimens in the United States of the great auk or gare-fowl, which became extinct almost a century ago, but which in early times was extremely numerous on the islands of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. This skin was bought in London, in 1868, and cost $625 in gold. The fac simile of the egg was modeled after one of the few genuine eggs existing in European cabinets. The skeleton and bones were gathered from the earth of the Funk Islands, off the northern coast of Newfoundland, where these helpless birds were sacrificed in thousands for the sake of their feathers, by the early fishermen and seal-hunters. Rare and curious specimens in all classes, including types from Audubon's own cabinet, three good specimens of the extinct Labrador duck, etc., present themselves for the admiration of ornithologists. In each alcove table-cases are filled with the nests and eggs of the l)irds in the adjacent cases ; and there are also some exceedingly effective examples of taxidermy, as, for instance, the group of towhees, and the cluster of homes of the cliff-swallows, with the birds poised in the air before their retort-shaped nests of mud. Next follow the birds of South America, among Which the humming birds will longest hold the eye of the visitor, who will not refuse to admire the plumage of the splendid green trogons, the gaudy macaw parrots and the varied but always gay parakeet. The condor and otlier great Andean vultures will attract atten- tion here. The cases along the western wall are devoted, at the southern end, to water- fowl, and sportsmen will linger long over their favorites in duck-shooting. A great variety of foreign and domestic game-birds follow, including the wide-spread- ing peacock and argus pheasants of India. A gaudy array of Old World parrots and parakeets is next seen, besides an almost equally brilliant collection of king- fishers (extremely numerous in Asia). The extraordinary African horn-bills, a long list of foreign woodpeckers, and a crowd of European and Eastern singing birds lead us on to where the lovely lyre and paradise birds, with tails fully spread, solicit our praise. The broad gallery or mezzo-floor, devoted to Ethnology, which encircles the Hall of Birds, is reached by stairway or elevator. If you take the latter convey- ance you miss the tall carved "totem" or heraldic posts, made by the Tshimsean Indians of the northern coast of British Columbia, who set these posts before the doors of their large timber-houses, as a sort of sign of their ancestry and quality. Notice should also be taken of the curious " wood-skin " canoe, made of a single sheet of bark, and used by the Indians on the rivers of British Guiana. It may PA RKS—MUSE UM OF NA TURAL HIS TOR V. 113 be compared with several other savage canoes, to be seen within the room, of which the great dug-out of the Haidas of the Queen Charlotte Islands, which hangs from the ceiling, is the most conspicuous. At each side of the entrance a mummy stands, as if on guard ; and each is cir- cumstantially described by large labels. The cases on the left, all the way down that (the eastern) side of the hall, are filled with the handiwork of the savage islanders of the South Pacific archipelago, mainly gathered by Mr. Appleton Stur- gis. Weapons and dresses from Fiji and New Guinea come first ; then articles of various kinds from Easter Island, noted for its colossal stone images, the makers and purpose of which are unknown to the present islanders; then a large series of ornamented paddles, fishing tackle, etc., followed by hundreds of war clubs of wood and stone, curious, often elegant and always murderous; cloth- ing and articles of personal adornment, made of bark in a great variety of ways; ornaments of shells, and all sorts of bright little objects likely to please a savage fancy; and some most ingenious and tasteful specimens of weaving, carving and of the turning to a hunter's or housewife's utility of apparently useless materials. Samoa contributes many of the most interesting of these, and a share of the dreadful spears, armed with rows of sharks' teeth, which fill an upright case. At the southern extremity of the gallery are costumes and many objects made and used by the Eskimos, together with relics of some of our Arctic expeditions. Here is a large series of Alaskan handiwork, of which the masks used in their dances are most prominent. Here, too, are their medicine rattles, fish clubs and fishing implements, paddles, and a great variety of implements and household utensils made of wood, horn, ivory, bone and stone, all elaborately and quaintly carved and ornamented. The great ingenuity of the Alaskans and their neighbors of the more southern Pacific coast, whose handiwork is displayed near them, will be more admired than their good taste, from our point of view. It must be remem- bered, however, that much of what seems to us mere caricatures of animals and men, etc., are symbolical figures full (ti meaning to the people who made and owned them. Collections of articles made by the savage natives of the west coast of Africa, of Central America and of various other districts of the uncivilized world, fill the remaining cases back to the door, where, against the wall, is a fine series of primitive stone implements. The line of table-cases along the balustrade should not be neglected. Many of them contain small articles characteristic of the people represented in the adjacent upright cases. Near the door, however, is a splendid series of specimens illus- trating the rude beginning of man upon the earth. These were taken, as the labels fully describe, from the ]3leistocene gravels of northern France, and show in- disputably the contemporaneity there of man and the elephant, the cave bear and many other animals extinct in Europe long before the beginning of the era. Along the eastern side a series of implements in stone, bone, etc., illustrates the age of paleolithic man in' America. " The Geological Hall, in the next story above, is rather more imposing than the others ; its high walls and great iron columns and girders, its large windows> admitting a flood of light, all impress the visitor very sensibly." The larger por- tion of this hall is devoted to the great collection of fossils purchased from Prof. J. H. Hall, of Albany, formerly state geologist, which are the results of a lifetime 114 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. of work in the field and laboratory. A great number of them are " types " of his species, and hence priceless to paleontologists. To the unscientific the broad slabs of Connecticut sandstcine, marked with the footprints of the reptiles that crawled over the surface when it was plastic mud ; and the fine skeletons of the fossil Irish elk, and of the extinct moa of New Zealand, will prove the most in teresting objects. • A large and extremely handsome and valuable collection of minerals, and the Jay collection of shells, are also crowded into this room, awaiting the completion of new quarters for their proper display. The attic floor holds a series of fine apartments. One of them is a lecture room, where Prof. A. -S. Bickmore, .Superintendent of the Museum, lectures on Saturday mornings, in winter, to an eagerly attentive audience of teachers ; another is given up to a branch of the U. S. Geological Survey; and the rest are laboratories and store-rooms, closed to the public. On this highest floor, too, are established the library of the New York Academy of Sciences and the special libraries of the Museum itself. The Drive. — After this museum has been examined to your satisfaction, a good plan will be to return to Central Park and wait until one of the public carriages comes along, northward bound. These carriages or " phaetons " are roomy and easy-going affairs, which make the complete circuit of the park at intervals of about half an hour. The fare is 25 cents for each passenger for the whole ride. This pleasant and profitable trip (which by the way is not beneath the dignity of any one), begins at the Fifth av. and 59th st. entrance. The course is to and past the end of the Mall, showing its green parterres, the noble breadth of the Green and all the statues there ; then along the western side of the Mall and to a knoll at the lower end of the Lake, passing the fine bronzes " Tigress and Young " by Aug. Caine, and "The Falconer" by George Simonds. The course is then around the western extremity of the Lake, past the heroically tall bronze statue of Daniel Webster, which was modeled by Thomas Ball, and stands opposite "jzd st. The Lake remains prettily in view for some time on the right, with the woods of the Ramble, and the mediaeval tower of the Belvedere as its background. On the left, outside the park, the Dakota flats — a huge, yellow, gable-roofed building, and, at 77th st., the large and shapeless Museum of Natural History are conspic- uous. The memorial statue of the Seventh Regiment also stands near 72d st., and not far from it is a bust of Mazzini, the Italian liberator, modeled by Turini and the gift of Italian citizens. Leaving the Lake shore, the Drive loses itself among almost continuous lines of trees. The grim walls of the lower reservoir are near at hand on the right. Near the 8ist st. gate an equestrian statue of Gen. Simon Bolivar will attract notice. It was a gift from the government and people of the Venezuelan Republic. Through thickening and beautiful woods, opening Organized, 1852. Incorporated, 1866. Wells Fargo & Co's Express The Only Express Line Extending Across tfie Continent from Ocean to Ocean. Constituted by tfie Government a Bonded Line for the Transportation of Goods in Bond. Running Fast Exclusive Express Trains Between New York and Chicago Via the Erie Railway. And Extending Ovsr 45,000 Miles 27,507 miles by Railroad, 3,818 miles by Stage, 525 miles by Inland Steamers, 14,130 miles by Ocean Steamers. With Agencies at nearly 3,000 Towns and Cities in the United States, Mexico, and in Europe. Fastest, Safest, and Best Service at Rates as Low as the Lowest. Money Orders for sale at all offices. Money transferred by telegriiph. Purchases made and commissions executed. Also Express Forwarder To Great Britain, the Continent of Europe, Asia, Africa, Mexico, South and Central America, Sandwich Islands, Australia, Etc. NEW YORK. Principal Offices. Telephone Call. 63 Broadway, ..... 3072 Cortlandt New York Depot (Erie Pier 4), . 167 A. (•^city^) Sranch Offices. 304-306 Canal Street,. 317 Broadway, 10 CKnton Place (Corner Mercer Str< 957 Broadway, . 143 Itowery, 66 Beekmaii Street, Foot of Chambers Street, Foot of W. 2 3d Street, 97 Mercer Street, . 16 Bloointield Street (New Washington Market). 63 W. 135tli Street (Harlem), .71 Harlem. BROOKLYN. 340 Fulton Street, .... 1545 Brooklyn. I 15 Broadway, ... 153 Williamsburgh. 349 Cumberland Street. JERSEY CITY. New York Depot (Erie Pier 4), . 167 A, Jersey < Ity. 74 Montgomery Street, . 167 F, Jersey City. 109 Sprintr. 4 366 Cortlandt. eet), . 941 Sprina. .~>i8 18th Sf. 375 Spring. 830 Cortlandt. 4859 Cortlandt. PARKS— CENTRAL PARK DRIVE. 115 here to a glimpse of sunny hill-slopes or rocky exposures, and there to the shining surface of the lake-like reservoir, the passenger rolls smoothly along the perfectly kept road. If it is in the morning not many carriages will be seen, but the bridle- path which follows the road pretty closely may be well filled ; but if the hour is toward sunset the Drive will be crowded with handsome equipages and one may feel himself quite " in the swim." The upper end of the park is much wilder and more solitary than the lower end ; and here, on a bit of a hilltop called Mt. St. Vincent, at the extreme end of the Drive, is a large restaurant and lounging place, where excellent fare is given at moderate rates. The southward ride along the East Drive differs from the upper part of the West Drive, only in the fact that you overlook a wide area of half-built town, the most conspicuous structure being the fortress-like armory of the Twelfth Regi- ment. Fifth av. shows some fine new houses as far up as this, however, and by the time the looth st. gate is passed has become a solid line of brown stone pal- aces. The 015elisk and Metropolitan Museum of Art are passed at 82d St., with passing glances of admiration for Conradt's statue of Alexander Hamilton and Kemeys's " Still Hunt," which stand a little above them. Then the beautiful woods and rocky knolls and lake glimpses along the eastern side of the lower park begin; the bronze statue of Prof. S. B. Morse, the inventor of the electric tele- graph, attracts attention near the 72d st. entrance; Ward's historical statue of "The Pilgrim" (a gift from the New England society) is justly admired as the Lake is approached ; the Terrace and Mall fall under our eyes, and the ride ends at the familiar approach to the Scholar's Gate, — its starting point. The site of the Morningside Park of the future is an irregular, elongated piece of land, the southeastern corner of which begins about 500 ft. from the northwest- ern corner of Central Park at iioth st. It extends northward to 23d St., having an average breadth of about 600 ft., the total area being a little over 32 acres. It occupies high, rocky ground, and the battlemented wall and heavy staircases along its eastern side, overlooking the Harlem flats, are conspicuous from the trains of the Sixth Av. El. Ry., where they make the lofty turn from Ninth to Eighth av. at iioth st. It takes its name from the fact that it faces the east, and is undergoing improvements which by and by will make it a charming resort. The Boulevard, which has often been mentioned in these pages, and will become familiar to those who drive about the city, is a doubly broad street, fol- lowing the line of the old Bloomingdale Road, which starts at the termination of Broadway, at the southwest corner of Central Park, 59th' st. and Eighth av., and extends in a northerly and westerly direction, crossing Ninth av. at 64th st.. Tenth av. at 70th St., and then running between Tenth and West End avs. to io6th st, whence it continues to 155th st. in a finished state. It will ultimately extend to 167th St. It is charmingly laid out with two wide road-beds, separated by small ii6 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. parks of grass and trees in the center. At 125th st. the visitor may turn off to the east and take Seventh av. to Central av., or take St. Nicholas av., or by continu- ing northward along Eleventh av. strike King's Bridge Road near 170th st. Horse- cars run along a large part of the Boulevard ; and it is a driving route to Morning- side and Riverside parks. Riverside Park and Grant's Tomb. This new and beautiful park, or drive, lies along the high verge of the Hudson between 71st and 127th sts., and is reached by the Boulevard horse-cars, by the 72d St. station of the Sixth Av. El. Ry. (half a mile walk) or, at its upper end, by the cable cars along 125th st. to Fort Lee ferry. It was the subject of an apprecia- tive and artistically illustrated article, by Wm. A. Stiles, editor of the popular horticultural journal, Garden and Forest, m T/ie Century, for October, 1885, from which the following remarks are condenst- d. " From 72d st. to the hollow known in the old maps as ' Marritje Davids' Fly,' at what is now 127th st. the river banks are bold, rising steeply at one point to the height of 150 ft. Down at the river level lies Twelfth av., while upon the high ground, Soo ft. inland, and parallel with the pier-line. Eleventh av. cuts its way square across the long series of side streets. . . . Between these two avenues, now approaching one and now the other, winds Riverside Drive, following mainly the brow of the bluff, but rising and falling in easy grades, curving about the ^ m ON RIVERSIDE DRIVE. bolder projections, and everywhere adapting its course so graciously to the con- tour of the land that it does not look to have been laboriously laid out, but to have developed rather as a part of the natural order of things. The broad shelf against the sloping bank, formed by the associated ways, is supported on the lower side by a massive retaining wall, at some points nearly 40 ft. in height, and this rises above PARKS— RIVERSIDE DRIVE. T17 the Drive in a low, heavy parapet which extends throughout its entire length, fitly crowning and completing the dignified structure. . . . The constant change of level and direction excludes any impression of sameness and at times the upward sweeping of the parapet curve produces a pleasant effect by its harmony with the sky-line or the tree-tops beyond. Even now, before its trees are grown, or its retaining wall mantled with vines, this road itself, as its gray stretches disappear behind some hill and beckon the visitor onward, delights the eye and kindles the imagination." Aline of statues will ultimately adorn this road, but at present the only one is a copy of Houdon's Washington, which stands opposite the block between 88th and 89th sts., and was given by the school children of the city. " West of the wall a strip of land varying in width falls away to the water with a rapid inclination. In one of its wider portions, however, near 82d st., the granite basement of the island rises in a pair of abrupt hillocks above the road-level, burst- ing through its thin covering of turf here and there, and nurses in its crevices two or three stunted and picturesque honey locusts. Glimpses of the river and the Jer- sey shore beyond, caught between these hills, furnish pictures worth remembering, even among the many glorious prospects from the Drive. This strip of land is too narrow to afford any park-like range, and while nothing has been done to adapt it to the purposes of a pleasure-ground, it has unfortunately been hideously sacrificed to furnish filling to the railroad (N. Y. & Hudson River R. R.) and other impVovements. Descending from the Drive by stone steps to some points where it is accessible, as at io6th st., we find an open wood of fine trees, with grassy intervals extending for a long distance, as a sort of intermediate terrace, which drops suddenly to the river-level in a steep bank covered with wild trees, shrubs and vines. . . . " From the Drive the views of the river and the wood-crowned heights above are most characteristic. . . . From occasional high levels the eye has free range to the north or south along the bright waterway, and cover prospects of great extent and the most varied interest. The crowning view of the whole series is that from Claremont looking up the river. This is at the northern end of the park, where the grounds are widest, and where they reach their greatest elevation. . . . Here, half hidden in a grove, stood the historic mansion once occujiied by Lord Churchill, but the oaks and tulip trees which surrounded it are deader dying. . . . Below the bluff the Hudson still broadens out to hold the light of all the sky. The Palisades frown along the left, and seem to end in a bold promontory, around which the river flows from the mysterious distances beyond, while on the island side a rocky arm is thrust out from Washington Heights to protect the deep and quiet bay." This part of the park has kept the old local name of C/aretnont Heights, and here, overlooking a commanding prospect, and surrounded by quiet lawns, which keep at a reverential distance the " equipage and bravery of fashion," has been placed the Tomb of Gen. U. S. Grant, the first soldier of the restored Union. Here his body was interred after the impressive ceremonies of August 8, 1885. The structure over it is a temporary mausoleum of stone — plain and massive. The designs for a stately monumental structure to be erected on the spot have been approved by the committee having the matter in charge. Whether or not ii8 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. the proposed memorial be erected, " the spot will henceforth be invested with a national and historic interest which will lend a new consequence and dignity to the park," as it has already done in a marked degree. This tomb and the park near it are most expeditiously reached by the cable road. The group of buildings among the trees on the hilltop northward is the great Roman Catholic Convent of the Sacred Heart. All along Riverside av., which bounds the park inland, and extends northward to the Convent, in Manhattanville, elegant houses, surrounded by expensive lawns and flower gardens are rising ; and it is fair to suppose that this admirable region will become and permanently remain one of the finest and most fashionable residence portions of the metropolis. " The road itself — a cluster of ample ways for pleasure riding, driving and walk- ing, separated by strips of turf from which stately trees are to rise, and extending for three miles, — would have a dignity of its own wherever it might lead through the city. But its position overlooking the broad Hudson gives it an added impor tance and an individual character which are not repeated nor paralleled in any of the famous avenues of the world." Another similar park and drive is to be made along the river front of Washing- ton Heights, from 155th st. northward to Old Fort George. This will be instinct with historic associations. Harlem has its own little park in pretty Mt. Morris Scjiiare, which occupies about 20 acres and interrupts Fifth av., between 120th and 124th sts., by its rocky hill, which is over 100 ft. high, and crowned by an observatory. An examination of this relic of the original roughness of the land here gives one an idea of the labor expended in reducing to the present level the streets and building sites of this now flat and monotonous district. Parks and Drives North of the Harlem. Six new parks, in and near the annexed district north of the Harlem River, recently projected, are as follows : Van Cortlandt Park, — A new and large park containing 1069 acres, which is yet almost in its original condition of rocky woodland lake and stream, and is not open to the public. A station on the N. Y. & Northern R. R. will give ready access to it in the near future. Bronx Park lies along both sides of the Bronx River above West Farms and contains 856 acres. It is reached by the Harlem R. R. at Jerome Park station ; and it will be connected with Van Cortlandt Park by the Masholo Parkway, and with Pclham Park, along the coast of Long Island Sound, four miles eastward, by another Parkway. Crotona Park is a space of 135 acres between Morrisania and Tremont, also connected with Bronx Park by a drive. Claremoiit Park lies upon PARKS AND DRIVES NORTH OF THE HARLEM. 119 the wooded ridge three-quarters of a mile east of High Bridge, and just west of Central Morrisania (Harlem R. R.) station; and St. Mary's Park is in the heart of Morrisania. There is also a little park surrounding the reservoir at the south- ern end of High Bridge, which overlooks the Harlem and a long prospect east- ward. Drives. — Though it is pleasant to wander almost anywhere along the winding roads north of the Harlem, east of the flats of Morrisania, some special " drives " have been prepared and are followed by those who have the carriages to use upon them. The Southern Boulevard starts from the north end of the Third av. bridge, and turning east follows the line of the Westchester shore of Long Island Sound, then curving around returns to the westward and joins Central av. at Jerome Park. It is wide, well kept, and commands at its southern end some fine views of the Sound. Ceutral A'deiiue begins at the north end of the Central Bridge, formerly called McComb's Dam Bridge. It is reached by Seventh av. at 155th st. It is a wide boulevard and the road-bed is kept in excellent condition. This is the fashionable drive of the city outside of Central Park, and every afternoon, and especially on Sunday, it is thronged with .splendid horses. The avenue extends to Jerome Park and thence to Yonkers. It is lined with road-houses, among the best known of which are " Gabe " Case's, "Judge" Smith's and Florence's. St. Nicholas Avenue. — This fine road was formerly Harlem Lane, and runs northwest from Central Park, alongside of the grounds of the Convent of the Sacred Heart, and thence to Fort Washington, where it joins the King's Bridge Road, which you may follow thence to King's Bridge across the Harlem, after which it runs into Broadway and extends to Yonkers. VIII. THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART, AND THE EGYPTIAN OBELISK. THE Metropolitan Museum of Art is on the eastern side of Central Park, oppo- site the entrance at 8ist St. It is half a mile from an elevated railway, but is reached directly by the Fifth av. stages. The Fourth (or Madison) av. horse-cars l^ass within one block; and the Park carriages go to the door. Admittance is free except on Monday and Tuesday, when 25 cents is charged. The museum is not yet opened on Sundays, although public sentiment demands it. The principal entrance is in the south front. Turn-stiles within the door admit and register visitors, and umbrellas, canes, overcoats or handbaggage may be checked and left at the desk, on payment of 5 cents. A series of handbooks, cost- ing ID cents each, may be bought, covering a few of the separate exhibits. "Unlike the great European art museums, the Metropolitan is a private institu- tion, receiving but a small sustenance from New York City. The Louvre, the British Museum, the art galleries of Dresden, Vienna, Naples, and Madrid, are national institutions, and some of them centuries old. But this is a corporation of individuals, who devote some of the benefits of their wealth in this way to the people ; and although the older part of the Museum was erected less than ten years ago, it stands unique in the world in its Cyprian antiquities, is second only to the British Museum in its Babylonian cylinders, leads all American collections in jjaintings and statues, and has recently acquired a series of mummy cases that can- not be matched anywhere. The total value of its possessions is about three mill- ion dollars, independent of the precious loan collections that swell its riches to half as much more. It would take twice that sum to duplicate the collections in value. " The original plan of the building jjrovided for an extension on the northern extremity, similar to that just finished on the southern, and the rapid accumula- tion of new objects by the munificence of art-lovers renders it likely that such a growth would be speedily occupied. The corporation in charge of the museum has for several years maintained an estimable art school in New York City. Arrangements are now in progress for the erection of a suitable building on the east side of the Museum for the Metropolitan School of Fine Arts, which will be in immediate connection with the Museum, having ready access to all its richness METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. of art models in paint- ing, sculpture, carving, laces, etc. Here for a - moderate tuition, prom- ising pupils will be able to obtain an excellent art education, with facili- ties unequaled on this continent, under the instruction of such artists as cannot be found in America outside of New York City. " The museum proper is under the charge of General L. P. Di Cesnola, whose Cyprus collection was the first nucleus of its art riches. Professor Joseph A. Hall, the well-known expert upon antique art, is also attached to it, and a large corps of attendants and watchmen keep everything in perfect order. An intricate series of electric signals is now attached to every case, giving instant alarm when anything is disturbed, and insuring absolute safety." — Cosmopolitan Mag., 1888. firsi floor. Having passed the turn-stiles, you find yourself in the Hall of Casts of Ancient Sculpture, marked B on the accompanying dia- gram of the First Floor. Here are plaster casts of the most noted remains of ancient Greek, Roman, Assyrian and Egyptian sculpture, each one of which is labeled. Around the wall, at the top, beginning on the west (or left-hand side) of the entrance, are portions of the frieze from the temple of Apollo at Bassae, near Phigaleia in Arcadia, running entirely around the four sides of the room. Below the line of the windows is a series of sculptures taken from the wall-lining of the great hall of the palace of King Assur-nazir-apli of Assyria, in ancient Nineveh. This series is continued on the same (south) wall at the right of the entrance, where also are a slab representing a wounded lioness, taken from the palace of 122 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY- King Assur-bani-apli (Sardanapalus I.), in a different quarter of ancient Nineveh; and friezes from his palace, hung on the opposite (north) wall. An interesting series of Asiatic Greek friezes occupies both walls at the western end of this main part of the hall. On the floor of the north and south extension of this hall, opening directly in front of the entrance, are busts of ancient sculpture, and on the wall south of the two columns, at the top, reliefs from the temple at Priene. Below the line of the windows, on the west wall, above, is a portion of the frieze from the Temple of Wingless Victory at Athens. Below this is a portion of the narrower frieze of the Nereid monument at Xanthus in Lycia; and on the east wall, a portion of the " chariot frieze" from Xanthus in Lycia. North of the two pillars, on both walls, are sculptured slabs from the wall of the grand hall of the palace of Assur-nazir- apli in Nineveh. Against the pier at the north end hangs an enamelled pottery relief of " The Assumption of the Virgin," by Luca della Robbia. On the west side of this portion of the hall a small alcove is devoted to a collec- tion of interesting and beautiful mediaeval and renaissance work in wrought iron. Leaving this Hall of Casts, the visitor may turn to the right (east) from the entrance, and enter C, the Hall of Egyptian Antiquities, which is on the Fifth av. side of the building. Two lines of floor-cases are first encountered, containing mummies and other Egyptian Antiquities, many of them from the royal sealed tomb at Gourmet- Mourrai discovered by Maspero in 1886, and all circumstantially labeled. " There are no kings here, but many nobles. The seventeen cases contain an incomparable cluster of wooden sarcophagi, all most richly carved and |)olished with colored lacquer and hieroglvphs, often within as well as outside, while the mummies that sleep in their double caskets amid winged scarabei and other sacred figures, are decorated as befits princes and princesses, lords and ladies, with bead embroideries, and papyrus scrolls from ' The Book of the Dead.' Several of the objects found with these royal Thebans, as the little paint-incrusted boxes, inclos- ing religious images, have never before been found complete; and the household implements illustrating the art and surroundings of the old Egyptians are particu- larly valuable. . . . This Egyptian room has been pronounced by visitors from the Louvre to be superior in its exhibits and in arrangement to the Paris repository of art." Beyond, down the center of the room, is a line of swinging frames containing embroideries, garments and other textile fabrics from Fayyum, in Egypt, and from 10 to 16 centuries old, which should be closely examined. The cases in the eastern half of the room, both on the floor and along the wall, are filled with heads and other fragments and objects of sculpture belonging to the great collec- tions made some years ago in the Island of Cyprus by General Di Cesnola. All ME TROPOLITA N MUSE UM OF ART. 1 23 are arranged according to the style of art, from the Egyptian and Phoenician down to the Graeco-Roman. The marbles and serpentines of the same collection are in the wall-cases on the western side of the hall, beginning at the southwest corner. The greater part of this west line of wall-cases, however, is devoted to an extremely interesting and diversified collection of Egyptian antiquities of vari- ous periods in bronze, porcelain, ivory, wood, mummied animals, scarabs, etc. etc., and the exhibit extends into the next room, which is defined by square pillars. Around two of these piers are arranged clay lamps, each bearing an inscription or ornamental figures or both ; on the east wall-pier these are Cypriote, Greek and Roman, and on the east-central pier Greek and Roman — nearly all from the Di Cesnola collection. The next pier bears clay tablets and cylinders from the libra- ries of Assyria and Babylonia at the time of Nebuchadnezzar and other monarchs of the flourishing days of those empires. The inscriptions are in cuneiform char- acters and contain a great variety of legendary matter. On the lower part of this pier are choice specimens of Egyptian linen for mummy-wrapping, some with hieroglyphics and very ancient ; also examples of inscribed papyri. The room beyond the piers (F) is devoted to Ancient Terra Cottas. — These are mainly from the Di Cesnola collection, with a few from Ephesus and other regions, and are arranged according to the style of art from Phcenician down to Roman. Many of the pieces are unique in form, and the collection is regarded as one of unusual value. A door opens from this room to the Sotit/ieast Staircase (K), where ornitholo- ogists will look with pleasure on several of the original copper plates from which the folio illustrations of Audubon's " Birds of America " were printed ; while art lovers will linger over some old Italian frescoes and mosaics. Beyond this stair- case, and separated from it and the Terra Cotta room, is the eastern wing of the main hall of the building, called the Hall of Ancient Statuary (H). — The line of sarcophagi, which began in the Egyptian hall (C) is continued on across this hall, where several richly carved antique burial caskets of marble are to be seen ; the most notable of these is the last or northernmost one, and all bear descriptive labels. Against its piers on the west and center are sculptures and statues from the Di Cesnola collection, which show a close affinity to Assyrian styles. On the south, in the wall cases, and above them, are Cypriote, Phcenician, Greek and other inscriptions of various kinds and upon various objects ; on the east, funereal sculpture, all of the Di Cesnola collection. On the north, outside the cases, are the remnants of the bronze crabs which supported the Egyptian Obelisk as it stood at Alexandria; they are of Roman make, during the reign of Augustus, and are inscribed. In the cases on the north wall are ancient bronzes of great value, from the Di Cesnola col- lection ; and beyond them, near the north window, figured Persian tiles of antique 124 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. FIRST FLOOR. A Principal Entrance to the Museum. B Hall of Casts of Ancient Sculpture. B*^ Alcove of Work in Wrought Iron. C Hall of Ancient Sculpture and Egyptian Antiquities. D Hall of Glass, Laces, and Ancient Pottery. E Room of Carved Wood and Musical Instruments. F Room of Ancient Terra Cottas. G Hall of Architectural Casts. H Hall of Ancient Statuary, Inscriptions, and Bronzes. I Hall of Modern Sculptures. K Staircase. METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. 125 SECOND FLOOR. L Gallery of Drawings by Old Masters, Etchings, Photographs, etc. M Alcove of Water Colors. N Gallery of Reproductions of old Gold and Silver Plate, etc. O Gallery of Paintings. P Gallery of American Antiquities. Q Gallery of Gems, Gold, Silver, Miniatures, etc. RS Galleries of the Catharine Lorillard Wolfe Collection. T Gallery of Memorials of Washington, Franklin, and Lafayette. U Gallery of Paintings. V Gallery of Paintings. W Gallery of Oriental Porcelains, etc. X Gallery of Paintings. Y Gallery of Old Masters. 2, Gallery of Oriental Art. 126 GUIDE TO NEW YORK' CITY. manufacture will attract attention, and may be mistaken by some, at first glance, for Chinese work. At this northeast corner of the room is a staircase to be spoken of later. At present let us pass through the arches westward into the sky- lighted " grand hall " of the Museum, marked " G," and known as the Hall of Architectural Casts. — We are confronted at once by three very large and brilliant paintings, hung high enough to give the distance requisite to their proper contemplation. The center one is " Diana's Hunting Party," by Hans Makart ; on the left is " Peace," by L. Knaus ; and on the right " Victory," by G. Richter. The tapestries on the east wall are by Fargand de Lavergne and are dated 1788. Two broad galleries (W and Z) cross the hall at the height of the second story, and their faces bear casts of sculptured friezes from ancietit temples. At the corners of the gallery are four casts of metopes from the Parthenon at Athens. On the north face of the gallery, and continuing through the eastern half of the south face, casts from the frieze of the cella of the Parthenon, so arranged that the center of the eastern frieze of the Parthenon is at the center of the north face of the gallery, and the whole corresponds as nearly as possible in position to the original if stretched out in line from this center. The remaining casts on the south face of the gallery are, beginning at the west : portions of the frieze of the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus, of the balustrade from the Temple of Wingless Victory at Athens, and the archaic representation of a woman mounting a chariot, at Athens. The floor is occupied by large casts of architectural details from Greek temples and from European and Oriental churches, which are of great assistance to the students of design and to architects. A large number of new architectural casts will be added during the coming year, including a reduced copy of the fagade of the Cathedral of Notre Dame, in Paris, and many examples of the elevation and ornamentation of ancient classical buildings. This " grand hall " opens by a passage, to the Entrance, and on the west is separated only by piers supporting the roof from Room I, the Hall of Modern Statuary. — Here are arranged in a good light some fifty marble statues, busts, bronzes, and statuettes, many of which belong to the museum, while others have been loaned by their public-spirited owners. They are numbered and a catalogue may be bought. Among the more noticeable are : IV. Original mask of Washington, taken after death in 1799. VI. Terra Cotta bust of Charles Darwin, the evolutionist. By Etcheler. VIII. Reduced copy of the Apollo Belvedere. The original is in the Vatican, at Rome, and is an antique copied from a Greek statue of the 3d century, B. C. IX. Water-boy of Pompeii. By F. E. Elwell. XII. California. By Hiram Powers. XIII. Andrew Jackson. By Hiram Powers. XX. Alexander I., Czar of Russia. XIII. Medea meditating the Murder of her Children. By W. W. Story. 1868. Medea is said to have been deserted by her husband Jason (hero of the Golden Fleece) and to have killed their children in revenge. ME TROPOLITAN MUSE UM OF ART. 1 27 XXV. Semiramis. By W. W. Story. She was a queen of Assyria (perhaps only fabled to be so) and was honored as the founder of Babylon. Dated 1873. XXVII. Cleopatra. By W. W. Story. 1869. XXVIII. Rizpah, defending the Bodies of her Sons. By J. Mozier. 1869. XXXVI. Wm. Cullen Bryant. Bust by Launt Thompson. 1867. Owned by the city. XXXVIII. Sir Walter Scott. By Henry Westmacott. Property of the St. Andrew Society. XXXIX. The Poe Memorial. By R. H. Park. Presented to the Museum by the actors of New York. XLIII. Equestrian Washington. By Marochetti. XLV. Eve finding the body of Abel. By J. A. Jackson. XLVI. Benjamin Franklin. By Houdon, 1778. XLVI. Polyzena, Daughter of Priam. By W. W. Story. XLVIII. Henry Clay. By Cleovenger. L. The Flight from Pompeii. By G. M. Benoni. They- are trying to protect themselves from the thickly falling ashes. LII. Thetis and her Son, Achilles. By P. F. Connelly. 1874. LIII. Napoleon. By Antonio Canova — a sculptor who died in 1822. EIV. Ganymede, the cup-bearer of Zeus. By C. Voss. Leaving this hall (whose windows look out upon the Obelisk and Eastern Drive) by the door at the southeast corner, we cross first the stairway into the room marked " E," which is devoted to Carved Wood and Musical Instruments. — The specimens of wood-carving here represent not only intricate designs and figures, but elaborate inlaying. Ori- ental antique, European, and aboriginal. Standing outside the cases are a finely carved clock of English work, dated 1640 ; a valuable cabinet inlaid with Oriental porcelains ; and a most elegant case of drawers and shelves, or buffet, made of American woods, which received a gold medal at the Centennial Exhibition of 1876, and was mentioned in the committee's report as the finest piece of wood- carving and designing in the exhibition. The musical instruments fill as many cases as the room will hold, and are in great variety, savage and civilized They belong to the bequest of the late Joseph W. Drexel, and to the larger collection of Mrs. Crosby Brown, author of a well-known book upon the subject. The old-fashioned, small-sized, but beautifully finished pianos, will attract attention. The Italian mandolins form another beautiful series. Visitors will linger curiously over the extraordinary stringed instruments, of the guitar and violin types from Turkey, Persia, India and China, and some strange forms from Japan. All these are fully labelled and need not be specifically described. The drums shown take on some quaint forms, especially in India and China, where their use enters largely into the Buddhistic ceremonial. From Africa are a list of strange and very rude instruments, — several of strips of wood, mounted upon resonant gourds and intended to be hammered like a xylophone. Our American Indians contribute 128 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. rattles and flutes in great variety. Hardly less rough and curious than these are obsolete instruments played in mediaeval Europe, such as the " nail violin."' Beyond this room, and occupying the southwest corner of the museum marked " D," is the great Hall of Glass, Laces and Ancient Pottery. — Standards with swinging leaves,, in a line down the center of the hall, contain hundreds of rare and exquis- ite examples of laces, which were collected by Mesdames Astor, McCallum and Stuart, and which "cost a fortune." "The Astor laces are European — coming from Italy, and France and Belgium. A full display of them is made now for the first time. They were prepared and placed on frames in the museum by Mrs. Carter, one of the most expert workers in laces in this country. This display is arranged in a series of revolving stands, on which the frames are set, to be opened like the leaves of a book. Each of these frames or leaves presents a background of satin, of the color best adapted to bring out the intricacy of the delicate patterns. A glass covers the lace, which is so arranged that artists can copy the patterns by placing above them on the glass the tracing paper on which the outlines are to be marked. The arrange- ment of these laces was a work of the most painstaking character, and only a few hours daily could be devoted to it. The figures all had to be laid out smoothly on the frames, each figure examined and any break repaired. The threads are of linen, of almost cobweb texture. There are scores of pieces, lace handkerchiefs, collars, dress flounces several yards in length, that could be rolled up and con- cealed in the palm of the hand ; a single piece of some of these specimens could not be duplicated for one thousand dollars. It was stated by Mr. Astor that Mrs. Astor expended upward of fifty thousand dollars in the purchase of her collection. The McCallum collection of laces, which was given to the museum several years ago, has many pieces quite as fine and delicate as the Astor laces. This collec- tion is mounted in the same manner as the Astor laces. With them is still another collection of laces which recently came to the museum, and which will be a great surprise to all ladies.and every one interested in laces. In value, beauty, variety and artistic merit, this collection is only second, if it is second, to that of Mrs. Astor. It is the gift of Mrs. Robert L. Stuart, and the laces are chiefly Oriental, from India and Turkey." — Cosmopolitan. The piers between this hall and Room E hold small specimens of pottery mainly from the Cypriote collection of Di Cesnola ; and in the wall-cases on the west and south, with the western cases on the floor, is pottery from the same source, with a few other pieces, arranged generally according to age and simi- larity of style in art, from the Phoenician down to the Graeco-Roman. The Athenian and Corinthian pieces, however, are at the southeast corner; and next to them, on the wall-pier, a collection of dark-colored Etruscan vases found in tombs near Turin, Italy. Against the walls, above the cases, hang amphoras, principally Rhodian, with the stamp of the eponym and the name of the Doric month, and other stamps and emblems, presenting a unique and very valuable series. METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. 129 " High upon the walls may be seen the valued Rhodian vases that, previous to the Cyprus excavations, were known only by fragments. They were sent from Rhodes to Cyprus during the Roman Empire, each bearing on the handles the name of the Emperor who then reigned, containing wines, oils, and other fine mer-- chandise. No two are alike, and none like them can be seen elsewhere, except one that went to Europe from this group." The opposite (eastern) side of the room is devoted to an exhibition of ancient glassware about which the visitor will be likely to spend as long a time as possi- ble. In the cases along the wall he will discover Egyptian, Phoenician, Greek and Roman glass from the Di-Cesnola collection; in the cases on the floor, eastern line, the two Marquand collections of Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Venetian, Florentine, etc., pieces, together with the Jarves collection. " Some of the ancient specimens, glorified by their entombment, are glowing sunsets of gold, purple and ruby, marvels of iridescence such as only the oxidizing touch of centuries can produce." It is believed that no exhibition of ancient glass anywhere in the world is equal to this one. We have now come around again to the entrance hall, and therefore have com- pleted the survey of the first floor. Let us now cross to the Nortlieast Stairway, in the Hall of Ancient Statuary, and ascend to the second floor where the galler- ies of paintings, the Oriental porcelains, etc., are arranged. Second Floor. The Northeast Staircase contains several works by masters of the old Flem- ish school, and a " Holy Family" by Rubens, which hangs excellently at the head of the stairway. The landing admits us, at the right, into Room Y — the Gallery of Old Masters. — On the eastern wall hang paintings illustrating the Dutch and Flemish styles of two to three hundred years ago by David Teniers, the elder (Nos. 59 and 94), and David Teniers, the younger fNo. 57), son of the former and author of the "Teniers Gallery." The younger Teniers was born at Antwerp, i6ro; died in Brussels, 1694. He was taught by his father and adopted his style, and became court-painter to the Archduke Leopold William, Governor of the Spanish Netherlands. " As a painter of guard rooms, fairs, beer houses and other interiors he has never been excelled. While he was in charge of the gallery of the Archduke he made copies of many of the most admirable pictures in the collection, and so successful was he in imitating the particular style of each master that he was called the Proteiis of Painting. The pictures so copied by him were engraved in Theatrtim Pictoriae Davidis Tenierz, etc., 1660, commonly known as the Teniers Gallery. The orig- inal pictures were removed to Vienna in 1657, and are now in the Belvedere Gal- lery. The copies, 120 in number, were brought to England, and for many years were an interesting feature of the art collections at Blenheim They were sold by the Duke of Marlborough at Christie's, June 28, 1886." 130 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY, Pictures are also to be seen here by Metsys Quentin, Jan Steen (66), Anton Van Dyck — a pupil of Rubens, and represented by the "St. Martha," (No. 78), Van Hugtenburg, Ruysdael the landscapist o[ Harlem (died 1681), the two Hals, and several others of that ilk; also portraits of Washington and of John Jay, by Gil- bert Stuart, and some old Italian pictures. The north wall holds portraits by Rubens, Franz Hals and Van der Heist, and a fruitpiece by Velasquez, among other old pictures of less note. Peter Paul Rubens was born in Westphalia in 1577, and died at Antwerp in 1640. He studied with Vandeen in Antwerp, and in 1608 was appointed court- painter to the governor of the Netherlands. He was engaged in several political missions to Spain and to England, where he was knighted by Charles I. He died full of honors and wealth. His pictures are said to amount to several thou- .sand, but many of them were executed after his designs by his scholars, Van Dyck, Van Thulden, Jordaens, Snyders, and others. Franz Hals was a Hollander who lived between 1584 and 1666. He was a jovial fellow, and his pictures are mainly of peasant festivities and pot-house scenes. Van der Heist was a contemporary of these ; as, also, was Velasquez, the .Spaniard, who was born at Seville in 1599, of noble parentage. His portrait is No. 39 in gallery O. In 1623 he was made court-painter at Madrid, and had other titles given him. He spent some time in Italy but was little influenced in the style of his portraits and scenes of real life, which are unsurpassed by any of his day or perhaps of this. The partition wall is largely occupied by Joshua Reynolds's great canvas con- taining three full length portraits of Inigo Jones, Henry Fane and Charles Blair. Reynolds lived in England from 1723 to 1792. He studied with Hudson in London and afterwards in Italy. He was a founder and the first president of the Royal Academy, and was knighted in consequence. He was the greatest portrait painter of England, and had many friends among the eminent literary men of his (lav as well as among those socially prominent ; while he himself wrote many essays and several valuable books. The portrait of Alexander Hamilton by Trumbull, and a head by Greuze are the most notable pictures at the south end of the room. The adjoining side-room, X, forms a Gallery of Modern Paintings. — The whole northern wall is occupied here by an immense canvas depicting the appearance of Christopher Columbus before the Court of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain to argue in favor of his proposed voyage in search of a new continent. The figures are life-size and the scene is powerful and animated. The artist is V. Brozik, of Paris. On the partition wall, beginning at that end, hang "Brittany Washerwomen," (9) by Jules Breton ; " The First Kiss of the Sun " (on the pyramids J, by Gerome (11); landscapes by Clausen (13), Corot (15), Daubigny (14 and 25), Rousseau (19) and Cazin (24); figure pieces by Delacroix (No. 21— the centerpiece on that METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. 131 side), Ley (18), Fromentin (22); a hunting scene of wonderful life and color, by Isabey (30) ; and a marine by Jules Dupre. On the southern end hang a characteristic landscape by Uiaz (No. 39 — " Rocks in the Forest of Fontainebleau"), a picture of sheep, by N. Jacque (38], a marine sketch by Dupre (37) and F. D. Millet's charming figure-sketch named " Confi- dences." The western side-wall contains landscapes by Cazin (43), Diaz (45), Troyon (54 and 64), C. Jacque (57), Dupre (51 and 58), Corot ("Dance of Nymphs," 70, and two other small landscapes, 75 and 76) ; a village scene by Daubigny (79), and a characteristic Rousseau landscape (83). On this wall are also figure sub- jects painted by such well-known men as De Neuville, the French war artist (46), Bougereau (48), L'Hevmittee (50), J. P. Laurens (60), A. D. Schreyer (66 — the oft-copied " Wallachian Post-cart" with four galloping horses), Jno. F. Wier (71), Geo. H, Boughton (62 and 74), F. A. Bridgman (78) and Ruybet (80). The sim- ple list of names of the artists represented in this room, from Corot and Delacroix downward, is enough to stamp the collection as one of extraordinary merit ; and many more examples of the work of most of these painters may be seen and com- pared in the " Western " and " Wolfe " galleries hereafter to be mentioned. Next southward is the room designated P, and devoted to a Gallery of American Antiquities. — This will be more attractive to special students than to the casual observer. In the table-cases is arranged a collection of antique and comparatively modern idols and fetishes used by the aborigines of New Mexico. This collection is unique. In the wall-cases are collections of Mound-Builder, Mexican, Peruvian, Central American, etc., antiquities, of great variety, interest and value. Three of the silver pieces were carried from Peru to Spain by a soldier under Pizarro. Beyond this room come two galleries, O and N, the former of which, first to be examined, is entitled the New Eastern Gallery of Paintings by the Old Masters, and of the English School, presented to the museum by Henry G. Marquand. A catalogue of this room with biographical and other information, is issued by the museum, and costs ten cents. You enter at the northern end, where hang two grand portraits by Rembrandt (Nos. i and 2), one of Van Beeresteyn, Burgomaster of Delft, and the other of his wife, painted in 1632. Harnenzoon Rembrandt van Ryn, was born at Leyden in 1607, and died at Amsterdam in 1669. lie spent most of his life at Amsterdam, was twice married, but was always in financial difficulties. " His fame as an etcher almost equals his fame as a painter. For strength, truth, handling, and chiaroscuro he has never been surpassed." He is represented in these galleries by, several pictures. The two ]3ortraits above noted were offered at a sale of the effects of the Beere- steyn family in 1884, and their authorship was discovered by two amateurs only a 132 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. few hours in advance of the auction. Greatly to the surprise of the owners the bidding was so spirited for these two pictures that their suspicions were awakened, and one of them entering the contest carried them off at the price of 75,000 florins, about $30,000. Their present owner is Mr. H. O. Havemeyer, and they form the only exceptions in the room to the Marquand collection. Along the east wall are hung a portrait by Jurian Ovens (No. 3), dated 1650; a portrait by Antony Van Dyck (5), a pupil of Rubens, who became painter to Charles I., and died with wealth and honors in 1641 ; "Christ before Pilate" (6), by Lucas Van L.eyden, in water colors on canvas ; a landscape (7) by Ruysdael ; a portrait (8) of the eldest son of Philip IV. of Spain, by Velasquez ; another por- trait {9) and "The Adoration of the Shepherds" (10) by Rembrandt; Gainsbor- ough's " Girl with a Cat " (11) ; Turner's " Sattash," with the River Tamar in the foreground (12) ; Sir Joshua Reynolds' portrait of Lady Carew {13) and Rubens's " Pyramus and Thisbe " (15), at the moment when Thisbe, discovering her lover dead, attempts to take her own life, and Cupid hastens away, horrified by the sight. At the south end of the room are the following: Portrait (16) by Rubens; "A Lock on the Stone" (17), by John Constable; portrait of James Stuart, Duke of Richmond, by Van Uyck, "The Valley Farm " (19), a scene on the Stowe, Eng- land, which was a favorite subject with Constable; and a portrait of Queen Mariana of Austria (20) by Velasquez. On the western, or partition wall, hangs a portrait-subject by Van Hoogstraaten (4); portraits (21) and " The Smoker" (30) by Franz Hals; a portrait (22) by C Jansen ; " Hautbois Common" (23) by John Crome ; a Florentine interior (24) by Massaccio ; a portrait (25) by Terburg; "Christ presented to the People" (26) by Van Leyden (see below); a landscape (27) copied by Teniers, Jr., after Bas- sano; "Virgin and Child" (28) by Jan Van Eyck — the oldest painting in the room; a casement scene (29) by Van der Meer. "The Card Party" (31) by Net- scher; "The Good Samaritan" (32) copy by Teniers, Jr., after P>assano ; "A Kitchen in Holland " (33) by Zorg, a landscape (34) by Teniers, Jr.; "Assump- tion of the Virgin " (35) by Prud'hon — an original sketch for the picture in the Louvre, and formerly in the collection of Wm. M. Hunt, a sea-coast (36) by Bon- nington ; and a portrait of himself (39) by Velasquez. The artists in this list of old masters, not heretofore mentioned are the follow- ing : Lucas Van Leyden, 1494-1533. He lived at Levden, and began to etch when a mere child. He was a close friend of Albert Durer, whoin he equalled in engraving upon copper, while his paintings exhibited a wide range of subjects and ■ great excellence. The picture " Christ Presented to the People," by which he is represented here, was formerly in the possession of Baron Carondelet, Spanish Governor of Louisiana, and is probably the original of the picture of the same name in the Belvedere gallery, in Vienna. Turner (Joseph M. W.) is universally known through his water colors and by reason of Ruskin's advocacy. He died in METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. 133 1851. Gainsborough was a distinguished member of the English Royal Academy who died in 178S, and is most admired for his portrait of the beautiful Uuchess of Devonshire, wearing the broad-feathered hat since called a "Gainsborough." John Constable was an English landscapist living between 1770 and 1837 ; and Richard P. Bonnington, another young English painter of great promise, who stud- ied in Paris and Italy, but died in 182S, only 27 years old. "Old " John Crome was also an Englishman (1769-1821) who spent his life and painted all his land- scapes near Norwich, and founded the Society of Artists of that town. Jan Van Eyck is, together with his older brother Hubert, distinguished as the inventor of oil painting; he lived at Ghent and Bruges from 1390 to 1440. Hoogstraaten was a pupil of his father, Theodore, and afterwards of Rembrandt, whose style he adopted. Cornelms Jansen was another Dutch artist of that era and was patro- nized by Kmg James I., the poet Milton and other noted Englishmen of his time. Tommaso Guidi Masaccio, a young Italian of note, died in Rome about 1428. Jan Van der Meer, called "of Delft," lived in Holland in the latter half of the 15th century, and his pictures are scarce Gaspar Netscher was a German, but followed the Dutch School of Art, and passed most of his life at The Hague, where he died in 1684 Jurian Ovens was a contemporary and a student of Rembrandt, whose style he e.xemplified in night scenes and portraits. Henry Martin Rokes Zorg lived at the same time, but studied with Teniers, the younger; and Terburg was another Dutch painter of that day, distinguished for his small portraits and con- versation scenes. The adjoining room, at the side of this picture gallery is " N," and it contains the collection of Reproductions of Gold and Silver Plate.— These glittering reproductions of remarkable e.xamples of the goldsmith's and silversmith's art, are derived from various European collections, but principally from St. Petersburg. They fill cases all around the room, and comprise not only all sorts of "plate" (i. e. table-ware), but also candelabra, mirror-frames, small tables, tankards, samovars, urns, censers, lamps, handles of weapons, and a great variety of other objects of utility or orna- ment to which the precious metals have been applied in times past ; and all are burnished to a precise resemblance to the real originals. Each specimen bears a descriptive label. From the southern end of this room we turn to the right through an archway opening into the long southern Gallery [L] of Drawings by Old Masters, Etchings, Etc. — The Museum's Handbook No. 8 (price 10 cents) gives a complete catalogue of this collection, which (with the water colors) contains nearly 1000 pieces. " This collection of drawings is composed of two portions ; the first. Numbers i to 670, was begun in the latter part of the last century by Count Maggiori, of Bologna, a learned scholar and connoisseur, and a member of the Academy ot Sciences in that city. It has gradually been increased by additions from the cele- brated collections of Signor Marietta, Professor Angelini, Doctor Guastalla and Mr. James Jackson Jarves, our Vice-Consul at Florence. In 1880, it was purchased from the latter gentleman and generously presented to the Museum by Mr. Corne- 134 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. ]ius Vandcrbilt, one of its trustees. The other portion, Numbers 671 to 851, was collected by ^Ir. Cephas G. Thompson, who generously presented it to the Museum in 1887. Tlie attributions of authorship are by former owners. In many instances the drawings bear the artist's own signature, sometimes with the presen- tation to a friend." — Handbook. Among those of most popular interest are drawings by Raphael (Nos. 44, 58, 727, 734, 739) and by Michael Angelo (92, 129, 136, 590, 591, 595, 599, 600), together with many of the schools of these great men. Here may be seen, also, drawings by Andrea del Sarto (104, 106, no, in, 116, n;, nS, 133); "Paul Veronese" (373> 375' 376' 1)1^'> 380.833, 690, 698,763, 767); Canova (671-7); "Claude Lor- raine" (546-555, 836) ; Corregio (215, 217,230,232,759, 771,781); Albert Durer (479,483); Leonardo da Vinci (186, 187); Murillo (488-90, 493, 494); Salvator Rosa (94, 98, 341-362, 807); Rubens (465, 466, 468, 471); Rembrandt (445, 446, 448, 450-4) ; " Tintoretto," (412-427, 785) 5 '^''tian 374, 3S7-9, 391-3, 395, 397, 401, 403, 813); Watteau (522, 524, 525, 526); besides those of many other men of almost equal fame and by a host of their pupils, especially among Italians. The Water Colors (Alcove M), embrace 71 sketches of scenery, chiefly along the New England coast and in the White Mts., by Wm. T. Richards, who made them for the Rev. E. L. Magoon, D.D., by whom they were presented to the Museum. All were painted since 1870. In the same alcove are a few water color drawings by J. W. Hill and etchings from Rembrandt. The center of the main room is occupied by standards with swinging leaves containing drawings by- Old Masters, photographs from the Torlonia Museum, Rome, and medals struck under Napoleon I. There is also, in this room, a large collection of etchings by Seymour Haden, J. A. M. Whistler, Charles Jacque, J. M. W. Turner and other masters of the art, some of which are extraordinary. The case-exhibit of Oriental and European decorations, etc., which stands in the water-color alcove, should not be overlooked. The western end of this gallery opens directly into the rooms where Miss Wolfe's gift of pictures are stored; but neglecting them for the moment, let us pass through, to the left, into the room " Q " called the Gallery of Gems, Etc. — This is in the southwest corner of the building ; and of its rich and diversified treasures the following account is furnished by the Museum authorities : " In the wall cases of this gallery on the south side are the objects in gold, silver and precious stones of the Cesnola collection, with a few others collected in Baby- lonia, etc. On the west, the Johnston-King collection of ancient gems, collections of antique watches, gold and silver snuff-boxes, etc. On the north, a series of gold and silver coins extending from Philip and Alexander of Macedon, down through the Roman empire to the Arabic and Persian sovereigns; Egyptian scarabaei in rich (modern) mountings; inscribed seal cylinders, seals, weights, etc., Assyrian, Babylonian and Cypriote ; antique and renaissance spoons in silver; on the east, continuation of the collection of spoons, and the Moses Lazarus collection of miniatures, boxes, and other rich and valuable objects. In the four corner cases, northeast, the Bryant Vase and other objects; southeast, silver objects from the Cesnola collectioi'i; southwest, two Sevres Vases, formerly the property of Louis XVI. of France ; northwest, various objects from the Demidoff collection. In the center, eight cases containing the Maxwell Sommerville collection of gems, METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. 13^ one of the largest and most superb known ; arranged by its collector, Mr. Sonimer- viUe, who loans it to the Museum. On the wall above the cases, north side : a suite of P>ench bed-hangings, 15th century, silk, embroidered with gold and colors- after a Persian design; a brocade, Louis XIII. (northeast corner) ; an embroidered altar-front, Louis XIV., representing a martyrdom (northwest corner); and (center) a large old Portuguese tapestry representing a sacrifice of the Greeks before Troy, and the omen of the birds devoured by a serpent. East side : a Daghestan rug, last century; a rich Persian carpet and three Persian rugs, all of the i6th century. South side, beginning with the east end : a Louis XIII. embroi- dery ; a long piece of Persian embroidery in colors, etc., on Genoese velvet ; a \ery rare and valuable altar-cover of old Venetian leather, 15th century, beauti- fully tooled and colored (framed) ; a Gobelin tapestry of the best period, repre- senting a scene from Tasso's "Jerusalem Delivered"; signed " Nouzou, 1735"' (from the Hamilton Palace) ; a Castilian coat of arms, old Cordova leather (framed) ; a beautiful piece of silver-embroidery on silk, style Louis XIV., which came from Versailles, 1500; and a i6th century Persian divan hanging. West side: a rug of Turkish work, present century; an antique Persian rug, 16th cent- ury; a magnificent Persian rug of the early part of the i6th century, with inscrip- tions and figures of animals, obtained from the treasures of the Sultan Aziz after his death ; an antique Persian rug with figures of animals, of the i6th century ; and a very ancient embroidery on Genoa stuff, with double fringes." We are now at liberty to return and study the galleries of modern paintings^ which begin with those nearest us, marked R and S, devoted to the Catherine Lorillard Wolfe Collection. — This consists of the fine and numer- ous pictures bequeathed by the lady after whom the galleries were named, and whose benefices elsewhere in the city were large and judicious. The portrait of this gracious lady hangs at the southern end of the room S, and is numbered " r." Miss Wolfe is descended from a family of Saxon blood. Her great grandfather came to New York in 1729. and his sons acquired large property which constantly^ increased in value, and rendered to the grandchildren great wealth. This was- always bestowed with noble generosity, esjjecially in forwarding the work of the Episcopal Church. John David Wolfe, the father of Catherine Lorillard, and one of the founders of the Am. Museum of Natural History, was conspicuous for his gifts to public institutions of charity and education. He died in 1872, and his- daughter succeeded to his wealth and to his generous disposition. Miss Wolfe was endowed with a mind of remarkable power, cultivated by edu- cation, reading and extended travel. Her biographv cannot be written here. She devoted herself and her large and largely increasing wealth to the widest and most effective charity. . . . There is not space to enumerate half of her recorded gifts, in sums varying from twenty to two hundred thousand dollars. . . . Nor did she,, while devoting so much of her life to good works, fail in any degree to fulfil the duties of that position in the social world to which she was called by her wealth and her accomplishments. She recognized those duties, and i^erformed them with grace and dignity as the accomplished hostess in her own house, and the always- welcome guest in others. Those who knew her best admired and loved her most- " She had from early life cultivated her affection for the fine arts, and before her father's death had purchased several jiaintings which are in the present cata- 336 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. logue. Her taste was excellent, and her judgment strengthened by study and very thorough acquaintance with the works of old and modern artists. She had there- fore, great enjoyment in gathering around her, in her city residence, examples of znasters in the modern schools." Miss Wolfe had a constant interest in the Metropolitan Museum of Art to whose collections she had been a large contributor, and of which she was one of the patrons, and in her will (which disposed of more than a million dollars), she not ■only 2;ave to the Museum her collection of paintings, but added an endowment of $200,000, the income to be used for the preservation and increase of the collection. It is impossible in the limited space at command in this Guide to do more than mention some of the more striking of the 150 or more pictures included. A com- plete catalogue may be bought at the door for 10 cents by those who wish fuller information. The names of the painters represented include Alex. Cabanel, Sir Frederick Leighton, Rosa Bonheur, Jules Dupre, Leon Bonat, Munkacsy, Vibert, Troyon, Kaulbach, Daubigny, Diaz, Gerome, Hans Makart, Rousseau, Corot, Meissoiner, Breton, Bougereau, Koek-Koek, Detaille, Vernet, Knaus, Leloir, Dore, Richards, Fortuny, Bida, Boughton and many more of less wide repute. In respect to certain ones a few notes may be helpful. No. I. Portrait of Miss Wolfe (south end of Room R). No. 9. " A Limier-Briquet Hound," by Rosa Bonheur'; painted in 1877. No. ID. " The Hay Wagon," by Jules Dupre ; 1876. No. 18. " A Pawnbroker's Shop," by Milhaly Munkacsy; painted to order, 1874. No. 22. " Holland Cattle," by Constant Troyon. No. 28. " Crusaders before Jerusalem," by William Kaulbach. The motive of rthis large canvas is the universal triumph of Christianity. Jerusalem, the goal of all crusaders, lies in the distance. " Somewhat removed, some crusaders contem- plate the city from a hill-top, a group of eminent knights, ecclesiastics, bishops and crusade preachers ; on another hill to the right can be seen the army of crusaders • commanded by Godfrey of Bouillon, who holds uplifted in both hands, a crown, -symbol of the divine right of the Kings of Jerusalem; near him are lioemond and Tancredi, soldiers who had distinguished themselves in the memorable battles the •crusaders fought with the Saracens. The ground is covered with the enemy's dead. On the foreground in the middle, are Peter of Amiens on his knees, with ^eyes turned towards the Holy City and offering to God prayers of thanksgiving. Behind him a group of penitents lying on the ground or scourging themselves ; above, borne on clouds, is seen the divine apparition of the Redeemer accom- panied by the Holy Virgin and surrounded by the Saints and Martyrs. Godfrey •of Bouillon bearing on his head a crown of thorns, offers the crown of the Holy Land to the Saviour, the real King of Jerusalem. Near Peter of Amiens is a group of fervent psalmists of the Christian faith, followed by the Knights in mag- nificent armor. The Troubadour of the middle ages, so closely associated with the romances of the Crusaders, here also finds his place. The beautiful Armida, •borne seated on a litter dra]3ed with laurel branches, is carried by Moors, while her Knight, Rinaldo, leads the way to the city, as pious, and beautiful, she lifts .her gaze to the heavenly apparition." No. 38. Objects of Art, painted by Blaize Desgoffe. These artistic antiquities .are deposited in tlie Louvre, Paris, and were selected by Miss Wolfe; among METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. 137- them are the poignard of Phillippe II., a collarette of Louis XIII., and various-- vases, etc., of the i6th century. No. 39. " On the Seine — Morning," by Chas. F. Daubigny, 187 1. No. 43. " Study of Trees," by Narcisse Diaz. No. 48. " Prayer in a Mosque ; old Cairo," by J. L. E. Gerome. No. 49. " The Dream after the Ball," by Hans Makart, painter of the large canvas " Diana's Hunting Party " in the main hall on the ground floor. No. 53. " River Landscape," by Theo. Rousseau. No. 55. " Edge of a Forest," by N. Diaz. No. 60. " Ville d'Avray " (near Paris), by Jean B. C. Corot. No. 61. " Study of a White Cow," by C. Troyon. No. 63. " The Brothers Adrien and William Van de Velde," by J. L. E- Meissonier. No. 64. " Boy of the Bischari Tribe," by J. L. E. Gerome. No. 68. " Peasant Girl Knitting," by Jules Breton. No. 74. " Religious Procession m Brittany," by Jules Breton. Breton was a special student of the quaint picturesque life of the Brittany peasantry, and one of his paintings, similar in theme and treatment to this, was sold a few years ago- to Sir Donald Smith, of Montreal, for $45,000. The peasantry there are a simple- hearted, superstitious people, among whom many a heathen legend, descended from the Druids, has mingled with Roman Catholic ideas and worship. " Almost every church has its strange legend, and every saint his special pat- ronage, and on his fete day a pilgrimage ox pardon is celebrated, when indulgence for past sins is obtained. These /(rn/ww or festivals often are nearly equivalent to the German kirchweich, the Flemish kermes, and the Irish wake. The pardon St. Mathurin held at Lamballe on Whit Sunday is much frequented by pilgrims, who dance the old Breton dances. The pardon celebrated four times a year at Rumegol near Le Faou is attended with very curious ceremonies. These pardons take place at fixed periods around about certain churches, but often in. uncultivated fields, where tents are erected and where the fete continues for sev- eral days and is attended by thousands of the peasantry of both sexes. The most important of these pardons are those of St. Anne d'Auray, and of St. Anne de Palud, which last is the most picturesque of all, and takes place at the sea-side. The one represented in M. Breton's picture is held at Kergoat, near Douarnenez and Quimper." Painted in 1859. No. 78. " Sister of Charity," by Edouard Frere. No. 79. "Brother and Sister," by Wm. A. Bougereau. No. 84. " A General and Adjutant " (shores of Antibes, France), by Meissonier. No. 85. " The Holy Family," by Diaz ; 1853. No. 94. " Skirmish between Cossacks and the Imperial Body Guard," 1814, by Edward Detaille; 1870. No. 99. " On the River Oise ; Evening," by Daubigny; painted to order in 1874. No. in. " The Shumalite Woman," by Alex. Cabanel ; painted to order, 1876. Illustrating the Song of Solomon, II., 8: "The voice of my beloved ! Behold he cometh," etc. No. 115. "The Holy Family," by Ludwig Knaus. This picture was painted in 1876, by order of the late Empress of Russia. No. 123. " The Retreat from Moscow," by Gustave Dore ; 1865. No. 136. "The Massacre of the Mamelukes," by Alex. Bida ; a water-color. This massacre occurred on May i, 181 1, at the order of the Viceroy of Egypt, who wished to crush this warrior-race, and invited their leaders to meet him in the 138 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. old palace at Cairo. "The Mamelukes, surrounded by impassable walls, fell like ripe corn under a hail of bullets, a confused mass of men and beasts : the horses neighing in their fright bounded through pools of blood over the bodies of the wounded, while the conquerors of a hundred battles, now conquered, shook their clenched fists at the terrible walls. Death passed over them like a whirlwind, not sparing one out of the five hundred horsemen." No. 138. "The Sign Painter," by Meissonier ; 1872. No. 139. "Camels Reposing," by Fortuny. This water-color, of a scene in Tangiers in 1865, once belonged to the artist Gerome. No. 142. " Landscape," by Diaz, on wood. North of these two rooms and communicating with them is the room T, called the Gallery of Memorials of Washington, Franklin and Lafayette. — It is occu- pied by memorials, and representations of all sorts, of the memorable men from •whom it is named ; paintings, busts, figurines, medallions, placques, pottery, etc. ; and is the most extensive collection of the kind known, but it is not of a sort to claim much attention from the average visitor. From this room, we pass on by doorways into two long galleries of paintings, marked U and V, and known as the Old Western Galleries. — Most of the pictures here are of recent date, and were presented, or bequeathed, by citizens of New York. Two stairways lead directly to the outer of the two rooms (V) and there we will begin our study of modern art. Prominent among the pictures in this first room (V) are several American land- scapes by Thomas Kensett, Cropsey, Hart and Bolton Jones, among American artists ; and Boughton is represented in a local historical subject, " the Judgment of Wouter Van Twiller." This illustrates a humorous bit of "history" from Irving's "Knickerbocker," wherein the sage Van Twiller, one of the early governors of New Amsterdam is related to have settled the dispute of two merchants in a novel way, by counting the leaves of, and then weighing, the ledgers each brought with him. Finding their thickness and weight the same, he announced that the accounts balanced, and that the constable in attendance should pay the costs. The striking painting by Hellquist (No. 18) of " Peder Sonniivater and Master Knut's Opprobrious Entry into Stockholm, in 1526" is thus explained : These two Swedish Bishops had sought refuge after their unsuccessful rebellion in Dalame, against Gustavus I., with the Archbishop Olaf, in Tronheim ; but the latter treacherously betrayed them to the King's servants, who, dressing them in rags, and putting a crown of straw on Sonnavater's head, and a mitre of birch- bark on Knut's, mounted them on starving horses, and brought them through Upsala to Stockholm in a Shrovetide procession, amidst jeers and insults. They were led to the market-place, and after drinking to the executioner's health, were broken on the wheel. Dated 1870. The large canvas on the end-wall near the entrance (No. 25), painted by Piloty METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. 139 at the order of the late A. T. Stewart, is probably the most conspicuous in the Toom. It is entitled " Thusnelda at the Triumphal Entry of Germanicus into Rome," and will demand long study to master its splendid details. Germanicus, fresh from his conquest of the tribes of Northern Europe, appears in the background upon a triumphal car, in front of which are his most distin- guished captives, and heaps of spoil, passing in review before the Emperor Tiberius, who, surrounded by his court, sits upon a dais to behold the trophies of his army's victory. The scene is described by both Tacitus and Strabo. The prin- cipal figure of the day, and of this picture is Thusnelda, wife of the German prince, Arminius, who had been forcibly carried away from her husband by her father, Segestes, and betrayed into the hands of the Romans. Now Segestes — the figure with long, red locks and fierce attitude standing on the platform before the •emperor, — is forced by Tiberius to witness the shame of his daughter's position, and endure the scorn of the senators and courtiers. Thusnelda, proud and regal in air and dressed in the costume of the Germans, walks past the throne without deigning a look to either her father or the emperor, and leading her little son Turnelicus. "Before her is the Priest Libes coupled (chained) together with war- riors, escorted by Roman soldiers, who insult them. Behind Thusnelda are to be seen her brothers, leaders of the Cherusker, chained together, with bears, etc., etc. The foreground to the left is occupied by populace of Rome, who mock and insult Thusnelda; but it is related that the nobility of Rome recognized and applauded the womanly dignity and patriotism she showed." The Old Western Gallery is continued into the larger adjoining room marked U, where a multitude of fine pictures are hung. The most conspicuous is Rose Bonheur's " Horse Fair " (No. 81) which was first exhibited at the Paris Salon in 1853, and established her reputation. She was then only thirty years of age. This picture was exhibited in several European galleries, and was offered by Mile. Bonheur to the town of Bordeaux for $2,400 but did not find a purchaser. In 1855 it was bought by Mr. Ernest Gambart, of London, for 40,000 francs. He intended to have an engraving made from it ; but Mile. Bonheur, knowing, that this would be difficult, made for that purpose a replica, one quarter as large ; and it was that small one which Sir Thomas Landseer copied in the steel engrav- ing which quickly, became familiar all over the world. The original (here present) was subsequently bought by Mr. W. P. Wright, of Weehawken, N. J., who sold it to Mr. A. T. Stewart, in whose gallery it remained until the sale of 1877, when Mr. Cornelius Vanderbilt paid $53,500 for it, and gave it to the Museum. Perhaps the next most popular picture is Detaille's "Defense of Champigny" {No. 100), which was first exhibited in the Paris Salon in 1879. It was bought and presented to the Museum by Mr. Henry Hilton, to whom the artist (who was a soldier in the Franco-Prussian war and a witness to the scene depicted, wrote: " The episode which I have chosen gives scope for a great development of sub- ject. It is the moment when the division of General Faron (now Inspector of Marine), after having taken Champigny, situated above the Marne, fortified itself I40 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. in the village and defended, foot by foot, the houses and enclosures against the return attack of the Saxony and Wurtemburg divisions, in the battle of 2d Decem- ber, 1S70. The chateau which I have shown is one of those which is found at the fork of the two roads of Chennevieres ; a place well-known to those Parisians who took part in the scenes of the siege of Paris. The ofiicer shown in the center of the picture is General Faron, who was appointed General of Division on the field of battle. The foot soldiers belong to the 1 13th Regiment of the Line, who lost a great number in the three days of tight. The Sappers, who are making the embrasures in the wall to allow the sharpshooters to lire under protection, and are barricading the opening with all kinds of material ; the artillerists, who are plac- ing the battery guns in position ; all likewise were under the orders of General Faron, who at this time commanded the right wing of the French army." Several other paintings are more than ordinarily interesting here. Shrader's por- trait of Von Humboldt (No. 63) was painted in 1857, in Berlin, at the request of the late Mr. Albert Havemeyer, and was the last portrait from life of the great nat- uralist. The background, Mt. Chimborazo, was of his own choosing The nota- ble picture by Meissonier, entitled " Friedland, 1807 " (No 66) was one in which the artist took peculiar pride and pleasure. "I can only part with it with pain," he wrote to Mr, Henry Hilton (by whom it was given to the Museum) " — a picture which has been for so long a time the life and joy of my studio. ... I have the conviction — which I do not express without a certain pride — that the value of this work will increase with time. . . I did not intend to paint a battle — I wanted to paint Napoleon at the zenith of his glory ; I wanted to paint the love, the adoration of the soldiers for the great Captain in whom they had faith, and for whom they were ready to die. . . . The men and the Emperor are in the presence of each other. The soldiers cry to him that they are his, and the impassive Chief, whose Imperial will directs the masses that move around him, salutes his devoted army. He and. they plainly comprehend each other, and absolute confidence is expressed in every face." The price paid for this picture was $66,000. The picture No. 94, called " L'Attentat d'Anagni," by Albert Maignan, repre- sents a dramatic incident in the life of Pope Boniface VHI. in 1294. " Philip the Fair, of France, resisted his authority in spiritual matters, and, aided by Italian enemies of the Pope, compelled him to take refuge in his native town. Hither he was pursued by Sciarra Colonna, at that time head of the most celebrated and powerful of the Romai> aristocratic families. The picture repre- sents the moment when Boniface says to his assailants, ' Here is my neck; here is my head ; strike ! but I will die Pope.' " The gein-e work, landscapes and portraits by George Inness, Thomas Kensett, Edward Gay, Swain Gifford, George Smillie, W. B. Baker, George H. Boughton, Frank Millet, C. F. Ulrich, Leon Y. Escosura, Eastman Johnson, J. Alden Wier and other American painters will be noticed ; while pictures are to be seen in this room by such distinguished foreign artists (in addition to these already mentioned) as Dupre, Mauve (Nos. 95, loi), Diaz (98), Fortuny (71), Benjamin Constant ("La METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. 141 Tunisienne " (No. 73), Wylie {" Death of a Vendeau chief" No. 105), and Har- pipignies (No 137, illustrating a song by Victor Hugo). On the Southwrest Stairway are hung fourteen paintings. The first is a Flem- ish picture of the school of Rubens, representing the " Birth of the Virgin." The next nine are " The Muses," by J. Fagnani ; all painted from New York ladies, and presented by an association of gentlemen in 1873. ^^- "^ ^^ by Benvenuti, and represents an incident described in Dante's Divine Comedy. The next is Bierstadt's " Donner Lake; " No. 13, Kensett's " Passing away of the Storm," and the last a " Holy Family " by Carl Miiller. On the Northwest Stairway is T. Couture's powerful " Decadence of Rome " — a copy of the large picture now in the Luxembourg, in Paris, made about 1850, and retouched by Couture himself, — and several other paintings. These Western galleries are connected with the Eastern galleries of Paintings by the two Oriental galleries (W, Z), which overlook the grand hall. Of these, the northern one is W, — the Gallery of Oriental Porcelains, Etc. — This is worth very careful attention by lovers of the ceramic arts ; and a handbook ( 10 cents) may be bought which treats of the collection most instructively. The examination should begin at the eastern end, where the numbering of the specimens begins. The earliest is the pure white porcelain, the oldest style in China, and still some- what made. Next in order and time follows the old Celadon wares, generally sea- green. Then come the old and valued blue wares, with slip decorations, and after them the monochromatic, variegated and mottled enamels, whose splendor of color could not be matched for variety, or for the intensity of some of their tints, by all the rest of the world. Observe the graduations and purity of the blues, and then the liver-reds upon this ware. From the plain-ground colors the eye passes to the intermingling of enamels, the marvelous success of which, when attempted by the Chinese, is shown in specimens 161, t66, 173, 175 and others near them. The crackle wares come next, divided into classes : i, one ground color ; ::, two ground colors ; 3, decorative designs in colors. These are followed by reticulated pieces of which 325 is a prominent example. They indicate the highest skill in the hand- ling of pastes, and collectors now eagerly seek good specimens. Next come the relief decorations, in great number and variety ; but special attention should be paid to the vases and cup and saucer, Nos. 376, 377, and 37S, which are orna- mented with designs in mother-of-pearl inlaid in lacquer. Delicate specimens of bamboo-covered eggshell ware follow ; and then the rice-grain style of decora- tion (e.g., 1205, 1231). Beyond these are picked examplars of the various styles ofblue-and-white enameled porcelain, so universally esteemed, and forming a long list. Rose and ruby porcelains succeed these — the latter tint, being a royal pre- rogative. This class grades into various mixtures of colors, classified by the pre- dominating feature in their decoration. Among these begin to appear many specimens of Japanese work of the same class. The cases at the western end of the gallery contain pieces of exceptional beauty and value. Specimens 1093 to 1099 are fragments from the porcelain Tower at Nankin completed in 1431, but begun so far back that the date has? been lost in tradition. P^ few specimens of 142 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Corean (1071, etc.), Hindoostani and Persian wares complete this extremely interesting and precious collection. The opposite, or South gallery (X) is the Gallery of Oriental (Japanese) Art. — Its cases are crowded with a rare col- lection of Japanese ivories, small bronzes, jades, crystals, lacquers of great variety and excellence, and other of the smaller and more delicate examples of the exquisite work of that artistic nation, outside of the realms of pottery and pict- m-es. It is one of the most precious and beautiful accumulations of these objects in the world, and will repay many hours of study. The Art Schools. — In the basement of the Museum are domiciled the Art Schools attached to the Museum, but these are not open to the public; and two rooms containing exhibits. One of these (the East Room), contains the Di Cesnola collection of Tanagra statuettes, in regard to which art-circles were much excited some years ago, but these are not at present open to the public. The Obelisk, or "Cleopatra's Needle." The obelisks that stand as mementos of ancient religions and kingdoms in the valley of the Nile, have been objects of intense interest to the world ever since their erection. Many of them have been transported to Rome, Constantinople and other European cities, and it is a subject of gratification to all Americans that the most distinguished of those remaining in Egypt — the far-famed " Cleopatra's Needle," should have been permitted to come to New York. Historical. — This obelisk was quarried out of the hard, rose-red syenite of the quarries of Assouan (anciently Syene), in Nubia, and was then floated 700 miles down the Nile to the ancient city On, known in classical writings as Heliopolis — City of the Sun — whose ruins are near the modern village of Matunyeh, five miles from Cairo. Here in the far-past days of Egyptian glory, stood the celebrated Temple of the Sun, where students and pilgrims gathered from all parts of the world, and the greatest Pharaohs added to their titles " Prince of Heliopolis." This temple was the University, so to speak, of the nation, where " all the learning of the Egyp- tians" was concentrated, and that meant the sum of human knowledge at that time. Here, no doubt, Moses studied, and here Joseph obtained his wife, the daughter of a priest of Ra. Herodotus described the temple, and hither, at a later day, came Pythagoras, Plato and Eudoxus for higher training than Athens could give them. It is thought that from the records preserved in this temple, Manetho collected his history of the ancient Egyptian kings. If so, it is well that he did not delay, for by Strabo's time, Alexandria, under the Roman domination, had become the seat of learning, and Heliopolis was in the ruins from which it never arose, although this was the very city of the Phoenix itself, THE OBELISK. 143 This renowned temple at Heliopolis, of which a model has been preserved, was consecrated to the s]3ecial service of Ra, the mid-day sun, the god of creating light and life, and thence, secondarily, to deities associated with him by similarity of attributes. There is no record of the founding of this building, which is regarded as only exceeded in age, in all Egypt, by the shrine of Pthah at Memphis. It was occasionally rebuilt or repaired, and at last, was restored and enlarged by Thothnies III. who belonged to the XVIIIth dynasty, was a great warrior, and represented the height of Egypt's period of conquest and expansion about 16 centuries before Christ. He also adorned the temple-grounds with new and splendid obelisks. Two of these, of the larger size, stood in front of the temple, one on each side of the main entrance ; and it is one of these two that has been set up in Central Park. Though always of religious significance, the obelisks themselves were not wor- shipped, but bore the names of the god or gods of life, to which they were sev- erally consecrated, and also of the king — himself an object of worship— who erected them. This form of monument was symbolic of the highest function of nature — re-creation. They were always associated with temples, yet always an exterior accessory, as was the case with this one. When this obelisk was erected, it had only a single vertical column of hiero- glyphics, placed there to the glory of Thothmes III. Three centuries later, Rameses II., the '' Pharaoh" of Mosaic story, added two outside lines upon each face, while Seti II. also placed a few lines of hieroglyphics with his cartouche, on the lower front of the stone. Thus this stone commemorates three great rulers. When the Romans conquered Egvpt, they brought down the two great obelisks above mentioned, and set them up in Alexandria to ornament a city at that time only second to Rome itself in grandeur and learning. This occurred in the iSth year of the reign of Augustus, 13-12 v.. c, when Publius Rubrius Barbarus was prefect of Egypt ; and the engineer who managed the removal was a cele- brated Greek architect named Pontius. The bases of these two shafts had become somewhat rounded, and the Romans thought the best plan was to support them freely upon bronze legs. These took the form of sea crabs (regarded as appropriate because the crab was the symbol of Apollo — a god in the Roman mythology which corresponded with Ra) ; but afterward nearly all the accessible portions of these crabs were hacked away by plunderers. Fortunately, however, in the case of the present obelisk, the one crab remaining in fair condition (and which may be seen in the Art Museum) contained an inscription which affords the information as to its removal above recited. This obelisk (as well as' its fallen companion now in London) has been known for a long time as Cleopatra's Needle ; but it is evident from the history above given, and the fact that Cleopatra died some years before the stone w o i Z -Zo c m c i 4 u 4 Q -1 Q E ■^ ■ < m 4 < a: A TOUR OF THE CITY. 149 and Mrs. Marshall O. Roberts lives just below, at No. 107. Edwards Pierrepont ex-minister to England, is at 103, and at No. iiS dwells Robert Winthrop, while No. 85, corner of E. i6th, is the home of Vice-President Morton, immediately opposite the tall publishing house occupied chiefly by Mrs. Frank Leslie and Judge ; and just around the corner lives Ward McAllister. The brown stone building on the southwest corner of 15th st., has been occupied until lately by the Manhattan Club, now domiciled in the Stewart Mansion, up town. Crossing the busy thoroughfare of 14th St., we find the next block given up to business. No. 60, a little below, is the home of General Butterfield: and No. 57 that of the Roosevelt's and Maitlands. Between E. nth and E. loth is the headquarters of the Presbyterian Church. On the corner of E. 9th st. (No. 23) Gen. Daniel E. Sickles dwells, and diagonally across is the old and elegant Berk- eley apartment house. Eighth st. is here called Clinton Place, and the white front of the Brevoort House, so much admired by foreign tourists, will compel attention. John Taylor Johnston, President of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, lives at No. 8 ; and at No. 6 the Lispenard Stewarts, while No. i is the home of J. Butler Duncan. Washington Square to the Battery. The visitor, a year or two hence, will pass from Fifth av. into Washington Square under the noble curve of the Centennial Arch, which will be modelled in marble after the temporary structure built there for the centennial celebration of the inauguration of the first president of the United States, which took place in this city on May i, 1S89, with such memorable pomp and circumstance. The park at Washington Square is 9 acres in extent, and occupies the site of the old Potter's Field, wherein more than 100,000 bodies are buried. Later it was a military training ground, and a camp for volunteer troops during the late war. Its improvement is therefore more modern than the appearance of the grand elms along its northern side would indicate. The north side of Washington Square is peculiarly impressive and interesting, from the style of the residences, many of which are still inhabited by affluent old families, too conservative and too much in love with past associations and with the beauty of the location to yield to the behests of fashion. The houses are of red brick, with white marble trimmings and marble stoops, and have a peculiarly bright and refreshing aspect. " On or near the Square dwell the DeNavarros, the Butlers, St. Gaudens the sculptor, R. W. Gilder, editor of the Coitmy, and A. W. Drake, its art-director ; Rogers the sculptor of statuette groups, Charles DeKaj-, Henry James, George Parsons Lathrop, and several other poets and literary men, and a colony of artists, many well known, occupy studios and bedrooms in the castle-like University building or in the Benedict apartment house on the east side of the square. The west side is made by MacDougal St., once one of the most delightful side streets in New York, but now given up to squalid tenements, except ISO GUIDE 7 NEW YORK CITY. that the tall Washington flats and sunie good houses still overlook the park. Near the southwest corner is to be built soon a great memorial mission church, in honor of the Rev. Adoniram Judson, who was the first foreign missionary sent out from the United States. The region south of the square has fallen into the- deep- est social degradation, and is inhaljited by a mixture of Italians, French, negroes and nondescripts, among whom the police know many habitual criminals. The Italian poor predominate among the crowds that throng here on pleasant evenings ; and to this people the city owes the bronze statue of Garibaldi, which faces the fountain, and is the work of Giovanni 'I'urini. Let us step eastward into Washington Place, formerly one of the fashionable streets in the city, far enough to glance at No. lo, the old home of the Vanderbilt family, where the famous old " Commodore " spent the latter half of his life, and finally died. Here were born the sons whose aptitude in money-getting has main- tained the reputation of the name, and whose palaces we shall see later on in our jaunt. The house is plain, but large and elegantly furnished, a mansion far more roomy, solid and comfortable than are most of the more showy uptown houses of recent date. In the rear are the spacious stables, glass-roofed, where the Commo- dore kept " Plowboy," " Postboy," and the other light-footed horses in which he took so great delight; a miniature track, where the trotters were exercised, was laid out in the yard, and " Mountain Girl " lies buried in its center, under a memo- rial stone. At No. 25, corner of Greene St., lives the wealthy DeNavarro family. Returning, we cross Washington Square and walk down South Fifth av., through the French quarter, to the station of the Sixth Av. El. Ry. at Bleecker St., and take our seats in a train bound down town. (The route passed over in this car- ride will be found in the early chapter Getting About the City.) We alight at Battery Place and can spare a few minutes for a stroll about Bat- tery Park and a glance at Castle Garden, facts in regard to which may be read in the next chapter. This done, we will turn our steps toward the commercial quar- ter of New York, and Wall street. Bowling Green to Wall Street. Bowling Green is a small oval of shrubbery in the triangular space at the foot of Broadway. It is the oldest park in the city, and was a market place in the early Colonial days of the Dutch town, whose narrow and intricate streets were laid out between it and East River. The English made a little park of it, and some of the best houses of pre-Revolutionary days overlooked its lawn. Here was erected that leaden statue of George HI., which the spirited young Americans pulled down in 1776, and out of wliich, tradition says, they moulded 42,000 bullets to fire at -the red-coated subjects of the melted monarch — which was adding injury to insult. For many years the surroundings retained much of this old-fashioned appearance, but since the last decade began, vast changes have taken place, though Savannah Line S. S. Kansas City, 4,000 toas, Capi'. Kempton. S. S. City of Birmingham, 3 UOO tons, Capt. Bukg S.S. City of Augusta, 3.000 tons, ('APT. Catharine. S.S.Tallahassee, 3,000 tons, Capt. Fisueu. S. S. Chattahoochee, 3,000 tons, Capt. Daggett. S. S. Nacoochee, 3,000tons, ('apt. S.mitii. S. S. Ci:y of Savannah, ~', 100 tuns. Capt.Googins. Steamers leave for SAV- ANNAH every MONDAY, WEDNESD.\Y, FRIDAY, and SATURDAY, at 3 p.m., from new pier 35, N. R., foot of Spring Street, New York, connecting with ex- press trains for JACKSON- VILLE, TIIOMASVILLE, andNSW ORLEANS. Through passage tickets and b lis of lading issued for all principal points in Georgia, Florida, and Ala- bama. For further p.iitxulars r^.^- garding passage or freight. address New Pier 35, N. R., NEW YORK. A TOVR of the city. 151 the line of old brick buildings south of it, now occupied as foreign consulates and steamship offices, reminds us of the long-ago. But these, it is supposed, will soon be cleared away to make room for a new Custom House. " On the site now occupied by Mr. Cyrus W. Field's Washington building |the enormously high structure west of the Green and facing the Battery], No. i Broad- way, Archibald Kennedy, the collector of the port, built, in 1760, a large house, which successively became the headquarters of Lords Cornwallis and Howe, General Sir Henry Clinton and General Washington, while Talleyrand made it his home during his stay in America. Benedict Arnold concocted his treasonable projects at No. 5 Broadway, and at No. 11, on the site of the Bourgomaster Kruger's Dutch tavern, was General Gage's headquarters, m the old King's Arms inn. . . . South of the square, and on the site now occupied by si.x old-fashioned brick buildings, the first governor of the New Netherlands, Peter Minuit, who had bought the island of Manhattan from the Indians for .i;24, built Fort Amsterdam, a block house surrounded by a cedar palisade." Broadway begins at Battery Park and passes west of the Green. The diverging street at the right is Whitehall, which goes by a curve to the South ferries on East River. This street received its name from a large white dwelling, which stood at the corner of State St., supposed to have been built by Stuyvesant, who occupied it for a time, and which was subsequently the residence of the English governor Dongan. Straight across from the Green, at the head of this AVhitehall st., the long stately fa9ade of the Produce Exchange forms the most conspicuous feature in the scene. This building is 300 by 150 ft. in ground dimensions, 116 ft. high to the cornice of the roof, and 225 to the top of the tower. It stands upon a foundation of 15,000 spruce piles, and is fire-proof throughout. The cost, including the ground, was nearly $3,200,000; and when the bonded debt is liquidated it will yield an income of $200,000 a year. The external material is brick and terra-cotta and the style is modern Renaissance of a beautiful order, designed and executed by George B. Post, as architect. " Its massive campanile shares with the lace- like Brooklyn Bridge, the spire of Trinity Church, the tall tower of the Tribune, and the ambitious altitude of the Equitable and Western Union structures, the admiration of the stranger." The Produce Exchange arose by degrees out of the habit of the merchants, from the earliest time, of meeting in the central market-jjlace to traffic together and compare prices. In 1690 an Exchange building was first erected, partly for their use, at the foot of liroad St., succeeded in 1727 by an exclusive corn-exchange or market at the foot of Wall st. This was followed by other buildings more and more specially adaj^ed to their needs, until finally the merchants united in erect- ing the Merchants' Exchange, now used as the U. S. Custom House. But after a time a number of discontented members and outsiders, who were then doing busi- ness in flour and grain in the open air at the lower end of Broad St., organized and incorporated a new association which set up for itself at the corner of Whitehall 152 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. and Pearl sts., where Washington Irving had lived in his younger days. To this new center all the old members .were finally obliged to come, and in 1868 the " New York Produce Exchange " was organized. Ten years later it was seen that the old building would soon be outgrown, in 1882 the foundations of this new " temple of commerce " were laid, and on May 6, 1S84, the members took posses- sion. The old Corn Exchange has been torn down and in its place has arisen the Army liuilding. The membership, has long since reached the limit, 3000, and when a vacancy occurs by death or otherwise, from $3000 to .|>5ooo is paid at an auction among approved bidders for the vacated certificate. Several large entrances admit to the corridors, where are a branch Post Ofiice, the offices of the Produce Exchange Bank and several other corporations. Nine elevators are constantly running, and visitors may easily go to the foot of the tower where they are permitted to ascend the stairways to its summit. This is well worth the exertion. " The White Tower of the Conqueror, the Colonne Napoleon, or the Monument on Bunker Hill offers nothing equal to the urban, rural, and marine scenery presented to the vision. East, west, north and south the view is comparatively unobstructed. About its feet cluster the Field Building, on the site of Washington's headquarters, Castle Garden, the United States Sub-Treasury, Assay Office, and Custom House, the Stock, Produce, Cotton, Metal, and other exchanges, and the stately edifices in which the marvellous oper- ations of commerce, finance, insurance, banking, railroading, and telegraphing are carried on. If Washington be the cerebrum. New York is the cerebellum of the American body-politic, governor's Island, the pedestal of ' Liberty Enlightening the World,' the civic municipalities of Brooklyn, Hoboken, Jersey and Long Island City, the distant heights in the receding country, and the shimmering waters of bay and river, mottled by craft of every civilization, invite delighted mspection." If the visitor does not care to go the Tower, he stops at the Gallery floor, and passes into the balcony overlooking the " floor " of the Exchange, upon which no one is permitted to go without introduction. This room is 220 by 144 ft. in breadth, and 60 ft. high to the skylight. It can hold comfortably 7000 persons, and a fourth more space may be added, if neces- sary, in the future. Several long tables, having drawers and compartments, are provided for the convenience of the flour merchants; and one for dealers in lard, oils, etc. Telegraph and telephone booths are scattered along the walls, and sev- eral little tables are assigned to commercial journalists. Not at the long tables, however, where samples are shown, are all prices determined. That occurs at the auctions on the floor, amid a noise and confusion of yellings which is utterly incomprehensible to the uninitiated. The little circle of raised platforms near the gallery, known as the Pit, and filled sometimes with a crowd of men who seem to have gone mad with excitement, is where the prices of future deliveries, at the option of buyer or seller, are decided. ISack of the Pit is the call room (out of sight from the gallery) where an amphitheatre of 500 seats is arranged, and where provisions and grain are sold through the medium of presiding callers. Here on bulletin boards the figures of supply, sales, and prices of all the articles dealt in by the Exchange, at every important mart in the world, are posted as fast as received A TOUR OF THE CITY. 153 by telegraph. " While on the floor a buyer may receive a cable order for a cargo of grain, flour or provisions, may purchase what is ordered, charter a vessel for shipment, engage an elevator to load the grain, or a lighter to move provisions or flour, effect insurance, sell exchange, cable back the fact of his purchases, write and mail his letters." The E.xchange is controlled by a board of managers, and its expenses are defrayed by an assessment not exceeding $30 on each member. The employees number 84, under the control of a superintendent, who is the executive officer and cashier of the corporation. An arbitration committee exists, to whom all dis- putes may be referred, and from whose judgment there is no appeal. The business hours are from 9 to 4, no smoking is allowed before 2.15 p. m., and " skylarking " is permitted only on special occasions sanctified by custom. No fictitious or "washed" sales are allowed. All business must be fair and square on pain of expulsion. For what this business amounts to, and full details of how it is done, read Mr. Richard Wheatley's admirable article (illustrated) in Harper's Magazine for July, 1886. Several other analogous business associations may be noted. Among them are : The Mercantile Exchange, butter, eggs, etc., in Hudson St.; the Coffee Exchange, at Pearl and Beaver sts.; the Cotton Exchange (see below) ; the Maritime Exchange in the Produce Exchange building; the Metal Exchange, on Burling Slip; the Coal and Iron Exchange, Cortlandt and Church sts.; the Real Estate Exchange, 57 Liberty st. (see Harper''s Mag., Nov. 18S8) ; Bnilding Material Exchange, 59 Liberty St.; and the Horse Exchange, whose great stables are at 50th st. and Broad- way, and which acts in conjunction with Tattersalls, in London. Representatives of all these unite to form the Chamber of Commerce, which was incorporated in 1770, and is the oldest commercial corporation in the United States. Its history is a reminiscence of the old coffee houses and merchants assembly-rooms in the early days of the city. " At the time of its first incorporation the Chamber consisted of 20 of the lead- ing merchants of the then young city, who first met in April, 1768, at Bolton & Sigell's house, still standing at the corner of Pearl and Broad sts , afterward occu- pied by Gen. Washington as a headquarters. In 1769 rooms were rented in the building then known as the ' Exchange,' at the lower end of Broad st.; and after 10 years' occupancy the Chamber moved to the Merchants' Coffee House, at the S. E. corner of Wall and Water sts. In 1817 another move was made to the old Tontine Coffee House on the N. W. corner of the above. They next found quar- ters at the Merchants' Exchange from 1827 until they were driven out by the great fire in 1835. Afterward the meetings were held in the Directors" room of the Mer- chants' Bank in W^all st. until 1858, and later at 6t, William st. In the year 1884 they removed to spacious rooms in the new building of the Mutual Life Insurance Co., in Nassau st., between Cedar and Liberty sts. The objects of the Chamber are to promote and encourage commerce, support industry, adjust disputes relative tp trade and navigation, and procure such jaws and regulations as may be founrj 1 54 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. THE NKW YORK COTTON EXCHANGE, A TOUR OF THE CITY. 155 necessary for the benefit of trade in general. The membership at present is about 800, and includes the leading merchants, financiers, and business men of the city. Meetings are held on the first Thursday of each month. The rooms, which are very handsome, and well worth a visit, contain the portraits of many of the old merchants of New York, and a mass of valuable commercial statistics." — 7'own- send. Leaving the Produce Exchange we walk eastward through Beaver st., originally a canal, leading into the greater inlet which penetrated what is now Broad st. Opposite the Exchange is a handsome granite pile, which is the rear of the Welles building, whose still grander front of rose granite is at No. 18 Broadway. A clus- ter of Atlantic-cable offices will attract attention, The narrow cross street is New, which leads northward to Wall. Its tall buildings are filled with commercial offices, and the sidewalks are crowded with " curbstone " brokers. One block above here, the stranger hears with wonder the shouting that pours steadily out of the windows of a huge building on the corner of Exchange Place, and thinks a riot must be going on inside, until he learns that the authors of the noise are the brokers on the floor of the Consolidated Stock Exchange, the front of whose grand building is one of the ornaments of Broadway. The next cross-street is Broad — the home of bankers and brokers. Here Beaver St. suffers a " jog," and on the other side of Broad there comes suddenly into view ahead the great round front of yellow brick, and the conical red roof-tower of the Cot- ton Exchange, where all the dealings in cotton in the United States concentrate. Here William st. crosses and South William diverges ; and here, on the point just opposite the Exchange, Delmonico's restaurant has stood for many years, but is now to give place to a nine-story new building, the two lower floors of which will be devoted to the same pleasant uses. The Cotton Exchange is nine stories high, and with the ground, cost $1,028,000. It reaches through to Hanover Square (see Third Av. El. Ry. Route) and has loi offices beyond the rooms used by the Ex- change. Across Beaver st. from the Cotton Exchange is the new building of the P\-irnier's Loan and Trust Company, 8 stories high and costing a million dollars. Just beyond, on the corner of Hanover St., is seen the Post Building, and diago- nally opposite is the office of the venerable yiv/;-;/^/ of Commerce. ■ A few steps farther on we run out of Beaver st. into Pearl st. at the point where it crosses Wall Street. — "In the neighborhood of old Fort George, were clustered a number of the aristocratic families who before the Revolution had been accus- tomed to give the/rt.r in fashion, such as the De Lanceys, Livingstons, Morrises, Bayards, De Peysters, Crugers ; but for some years Wall St., where abode the Winthrops, Whites, Ludlows, Verplancks, and Marstons, had been running an even race with Pearl, getting ahead in the end, and holding precedence till Park Place claimed the laurels. Cortlandt st. gained luster from the residence there of Sir John Temple, Colonel and Lady Kitty Duer, Major Fairlin, and Colonel ancl IS6 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Mrs. Crawford, once Mrs. Robert Livingston. In Wall st. was to be found the very desirable boarding house of Mrs. Daubenay, or Dabney, the great resort of Southern members of Congress. Broadway had been a pleasant bowery street until the great fire of 1776 swept through it, leaving desolation in its wake." In the early Dutch days Pearl st. was the natural shore line (it owes its sinu- osity to that fact — not to its having been a " cow-path " as the story goes) and an estuary penetrated the whole length of what is now Broad st. At the head of Broad St., where now the Sub-Treasury stands, the Dutch built their first "city hall," and there was a tendency to place other buildings between it and the river. A portion of the street or beach in front of these houses was in danger of washing away at times of storm and high tide, and the prudent burghers protected it by a sea-wall. It is to this circumstance that the street, which was presently pushed through from the water to the Heere Straat (or Broadway) naturally owes its name, and not to the fact that several years before a line of earthworks and stockade had been built on nearly the same line, as a protection against the Indians. That fortifi- cation was not a " wall," nor at that date (1652) was any street there. At the head of Wall St. was the principal "land gate " of the city and at its foot (where we now stand) was the " water gate." Not until the beginning of the eighteenth cen- tury were any streets north of Wall laid out. All that tract was " Damen's farms," as far north as " the Maiden's Path" (Maiden Lane) which "was a very ancient road, .... its course through a valley the easiest route of. passage from the two great highways along the North and East River sides." From the very first. Wall st. became a choice thoroughfare in the growing town, where the best people lived, and it retained this character, with little business intermingled (except toward the foot of it, where the slave-market stood) until after the Revolution. "The financial institutions of the city became concentrated here gradually, having been first drawn to the locality and then kept there for some time by the fact that nearly all the government buildings stood on the street. The City Hall was here before its removal to its present site ; so were the courts, and the first Congress of the United States after the adoption of the Constitution assembled in a building which covered the site of the present Sub-Treasury." Now the name stands not only for the assemblage of great financial institutions which line its quarter-mile, but for the whole body of dealings in money and secu- rities that go on in New York under the lead of the Stock Exchanges; yet the offices of the manipulators of the largest and most influential of the finan- cial operations credited to "Wall Street" are often several blocks away from that short avenue, whose paving stones might be replaced by gold bricks without exhaust- ing the vaults of wealth and the world-wide resources the street represents. Let us note a few of the sign boards. The even numbers are on the right-hand (northern) side of the street as vye saunter up toward ISroadway. At the nejft A TOUR OF THE CITY. 157 corner below used to stand the old Tontine Coffee House, and the enormous Ton- tine building is now rising on its site. At No. 80, just below Pearl st., is the Commercial National Bank, and at No. 76 the Seamen's Bank for Savings. The Eagle building is at No. 71, and at 62 the New York branch of the Nevada Bank of San Francisco ; but insurance ofifices almost exclusively occupy the numbers from 72 to 56, together with many ofifices opposite them. In the Brown Brothers' building at 59-61 are located, besides the offices of that distinguished firm of bank- ers, the New York branches of the Bank of Montreal, the Merchant's Bank of Canada, and the Stock Agency of the Canadian Pacific Ry. This brings us to Hanover St., and to the U. S. Custom "House, which occupies the whole block on the south side of Wall between Hanover and William streets. The Custom House is a massive structure of granite, with an Ionic portico sustained by fluted pillars of granite and reached by a broad flight of steps which together make an imposing effect. The interior is one great rotunda, covered by a dome supported upon eight columns of Italian marble, whose Corinthian cap- itals were carved in Italy. This was the "floor " of the old Merchants' Exchange for which the structure was originally prepared; and it is now filled with an inner and outer circle of desks, occupied by those clerks with whom the public has most business. A bridge across Exchange Place connects this rotunda with a second building where other offices are ; but there is nothing of interest to a casual visitor to be seen beyond the rotunda. Opposite the Custom House, at No. 54, is the lofty brick front of the Central Trust Company : at No. 52 are the City Bank, the Bank of British North America, financial agencies of several north- western railroad companies, the law offices of Sec- retary Evarts and his partners, and several other important factors in commercial life. No. 50 is the abode of the Royal Insurance Co., the German- American Bank, agencies for banks in China, and other large institutions. In No. 51, at the south- west corner of William st., are the Atlantic Mutual Insurance Co., and the Phenix National Bank. The Bank of America's big building across the street (No. 46) was completed in May, 1889, at a cost of $1,500,000 and has an income of $100,000 from offices rented to such tenants as the Edison electrical companies, the Nicaragua Canal and others which take a floor each. Then follows a cluster of very striking buildings lately erected, grand in their architecture and magnificent in all their interior appointments. In one of these, perhaps the most costly and imposing of the group (Nos. 40-42), are domiciled the Manhattan Insurance Co., the Merchants' National Bank, the offices of Mr. Sidney THE CUSTOM HOUSE. 158 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Dillon and the western section of the Union Pacific Railway, of Mr. James Hill and the Great Northern Railway lines, of one of the Mexican systems, and a host of other corporations. This, known as the Manhattan Building, was opened in May, 1885, and some of its suites rent as high as $7,500 a year. In the nine- story building of the United States Trust Co., at 43-45, are several bankers besides the owner, southern and western railway agencies, and the law-office of Col. Robt. G. Ingersoll. The cost of this structure was about $700,000. The new Orient Building, at No. 41, is to be ten stories in altitude. No. 39 is now tenanted by the Metropolitan Trust Company, the Mercantile Co-operative Bank, and the Mechanics Bank ; but the last-named is completing a splendid building for itself at Nos. 31-33 which will be nine stories high. The lot upon which it stands ( 1 12 X 43^ ft.) which was acquired by the bank a century ago, is valued at $750,000. No. 35 is the Wall-st. wing of the great Mills Building, erected some years ago by Senator D. O. Mills, one of the " silver kings " of California, at an expense of over $4,000,000. It has frontages of 175 ft. on Broad st, 150 ft. on Exchange Place, and 25 ft. on Wall St., is ten stories in height, has 330 rooms, and its eleva tors have carried as many as 17,000 people in a day. Here are the headquarters in New York of the Central and Southern Pacific railroads (C. P. Huntington); the Northern Pacific and Mexican National Railroads ; the Pullman Palace Car and Colorado Coal and Iron companies ; the banking rooms of the Seligmans, Henry Clews, Senator Leland Stanford, Ex-secretary Whitney, Daniel Lamont and other prominent financiers. The beautiful brown stone building opposite (No. 36), is occupied by several New England railways, the Gallatin Bank, .S. V. White & Co., and several others. No 29 is the old marble house of Drexel, Morgan & Co., and contains, besides the extensive offices of that firm, those of the Leather Bank. This brings us to the corner of Broad st. ; and into view just below on the left of the lofty double front of the Mills Building, with its beauti- ful wrought-iron entrance, while on the right, the front of the Stock Exchange becomes conspicuous. Opposite the head of Broad st., on the right-hand side of Wall St., stand the Assay Office and the Sub-Treasury of the United States. The Assay Office, No. 30, is the oldest building in the street. It is of marble, and represents a handsome style, much in favor for public buildings a century ago. It is open to visitors from 2 to 4 p. m., and is well worth examination. " Every operation is here carried on that is done in the Mint, except the actual stamping of the money. In the front are the offices of the assayer, and the room where crude bullion is received and paid for ; and in the six-story building at the rear it is assayed, refined, separated, and cast into bars. Gold and silver are here to be seen in great profusion, the former generally in bars weighing from 250 to 300 ounces, and worth from $5,000 to $6,000, and the latter in bars weighing about 200 ounces, and worth $250. The gold which is used in the arts is generally in thick square plates, worth from $100 to $800. The most noticeable curiosities are the A rOUR OF THE CITY. '59 Iiydraulic press, by which a great quantity of silver is compressed into a round ijody not unlike a milk-pan; the crystallizing vats, where the metal is subjected to the action of powerful acids ; and the melting-ro(jm, where at intervals the gold and silver are i^oured off. From twenty to one hundred millions of crude bullion are here received and assayed in the course of a year." The Sub-Treasury is the large Doric building of granite extending from the Assay Office to Nassau St., and reaching through to Pine st. in the rear. It stands upon the site of the old Dutch City Hall and of the subsequent Federal Buildings, where Washington was inaugurated first President of the United States, in 1789. The broad flight of steps is now broken by a pedestal bearing J. Q. A. Ward's colossal bronze statue of Washington taking the oath, which was paid for by popular subscription, and unveiled in 1883. This building was first erected for the Custom House, but was long ago out- grown and remodeled for its present pur- pose. " Within there is a rotunda 60 ft. in diameter, the dome being supported by 16 Corinthian columns. Around this ro- tunda are ranged the desks of the various divisions of the Sub-Treasury. There are two large vaults for the storage of gold coin and notes on this floor, and the large vaults for the storage of silver are in thk sub-treasury. the basement." Near the Pine st. entrance are the two rooms devoted to the handling of. gold and silver coin. More money is stored in this building than any where else in the country, except in the Treasury vaults at Washington, and the majority of the money paid out by the general government is by drafts upon this Sub-Treasury. Steel doors and shutters and a well-armed guard protect the treasure, and upon the granite roof are facilities for mounting a battery of (Jatling guns and otherwise protecting the building against assault. The street at the side of the Sub-Treasury is Nassau, which runs straight north to City Hall Square. In this lower part it is occupied wholly by banking and commercial concerns, as also is Pine st., in the rear of the Sub-Treasury, where the bank Clearing House and other large institutions are located. Further on, Nassau st. is devoted largely to picture stores, shops for the sale of stationery and office supplies, and a great number of second-hand book stores. At its upper end the lofty buildings are occupied principally by lawyers, and it finally emerges into " Newspaper Square." Returning to Wall St., the latest new edifice is the Wilkes, on the southwest corner of Wall and Broad sts. It is nine stories high, the material gray sand- i6o GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. stone, and the cost ^1,500,000, exclusive of the site. It was opened in May, 1890. Nos. 14-16 are covered by a wing of the Schermerhorn Building, owned by the Astor family, which is full of businessmen; and across the way, at No- 15, is the entrance to the public gallery of the Stock Exchange. The New York Stock Exchange occupies a building extending through from Hroad to New St., with a passage-way from 15 Wall st. The fronts — 162 ft. on New and 70 ft. on Broad st. — are of marble and granite, and the Board Room or " floor " is an immense and lofty apartment on the ground floor, overlooked by a gallery to which visitors are admitted. No one except members is allowed upon the floor. In the basement are the most extensive safe-de]3osit vaults in the coun- try, and the upper stories are occupied by otitices. The hours are from 10 a. m. to 3 p. m., and members are forbidden to make any transactions except during those hours. The dealings are wholly in stocks, bonds and other securities which have been recognized or " listed " by the Exchange. The most prominent of these are represented by name upon iron standards scattered about the floor, around which the selling and buying of those particular securities goes on. One corner is given up to less important " miscellaneous " stocks. The general list of stocks and bonds is called regularly, and a free list of stocks, etc., is called at the request of members. About 250,000 to 300,000 shares of stock change hands daily, and the value of the railroad and miscellaneous bonds dealt in is from $2,000,000 to $3,000,000. In Government bonds the transactions average about $400,000 in amount each day. " Here, day by day, are scores ot men striving for wealth with the fierceness of maniacs, and here fortunes are made and lost by that system of gigantic gambling which has come to be known as ' dealing in stocks.' The stu- dent who complains of the intellectual drain that is put upon him might find con- solation in the overwrought and exhausted condition of the men whose brains are here occupied in the apparently easy problems of the market. The operations of the Stock Exchange and Gold Room concern the whole country both financially and industrially, and in times of panic, when millionaires are made and unmade in a single day, the wild ravings of the operators on 'Change present a scene never to be forgotten by those who witness it. It is here the true governmental center is found, rather than at Washington. Wall and Broad sts. dictate to Congress what the laws of the country concerning finance shall be, and Congress obeys. The Bankers' Association holds the threat over Congress that if their interests are not considered they will invoke disaster upon the country; and it is in their power to execute the menace. They did it on the memorable Black Friday, the 24th of September, 1869, when, by the action of a small but strong combination of " bears," gold was made, after a sale of $50,000,000, to fall from 1.60 to 1.30 in seventeen minutes. Money was locked up and could not be obtained at 100 per cent premium : and thousands of men from Maine to California were ruined. This incident, too, was a forerunner of the panic that followed in 1873, when the Union Trust Company went into Bankruptcy, and carried with it some of the greatest financial houses of the time. The Stock Exchange was closed for the first time of its history, and such was the condition of affairs that without its closing not a mer- chant or banker could have survived. No contracts could be completed nor stocks transferred while the doors of the Exchange were shut, and thus people were given, what was absolutely needed, breathing time, without which general and utter ruin would have been experienced all over the Union. As it was, not less than twenty thousand firms went into bankruptcy, and scarcity of money was A TOUR OF THE CITY. i6i felt in every part of the country, depressing business and checking industry, until Congress took measures for the relief of the stringency." The Stock Exchange now counts iioo or 1200 members, and the cost of a mem- bership or " seat " varies from $20,000 to $30,000. The seats are transferable, with the consent of the Committee on Admissions ; and when a memijer dies, or becomes insolvent and cannot recover, his seat is sold for the benefit of his heirs or creditors. In addition to this, when a member dies his heirs receive $io,ooo from the gratuity fund. A younger organization, with similar purposes, is The Consolidated Petroleum and Stock Exchange, usually called "The Consolidated ; " which has occupied since April, 1888, a noble building with large accommodations for business, at the corner of Broadway and Exchange Place. It arose from a consolidation of various boards dealing in oil, mining and general securities, and began opera- tions in 1S75. ^^ ^^'^^ does nearly as much business as the older board, and the scene from its gallery (the entrance to which is on Broadway) is often even more animated, since the stocks and bonds of oil and mining corporations are more fluctuating than those of rail- way and telegraph companies. A clearing system has been adopted which reduces risk to a minimum, only a very small amount of money being needed to effect balances. Tlie hazing and skylarking that formerly characterized these two, and all the other exchanges, is now sharply repressed and limited only to " white- hat day " (Sept. 15) and a few other festive occasions, when the exuberant spirits of the younger brokers are given vent. Any disputes which arise are speedily settled by committees of ar- bitration. No. 10 Wall St., at the head of New St., is the splendid Astor Building, occu- pied by the Manhattan Trust Co., and many other bankers and brokers. The grand new yellow brick structure opposite,' (Nos. 9-1 1) is the Mortimer Building. This brings us to the corner of Broadway, where rise the massive walls of the United Bank Building. Here are the rooms of its joint owners, the First Na- tional Bank, and the Bank of the Republic; of several private banking firms; of the Richmond Terminal and several other southern and western rail- ways; and here General Grant had his offices during his brief and ill-fated career in the "street." %d.\'Cr^!fi^'f THE CONSOLIDATED EXCH.^NGE. t62 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Banks. — New York City has some 50 national banks, issuing currency, and hav- ing a combined capital of fifty millions of dollars, varying in amount from $150,000 to $5,000,000. These banks are scattered all over town, but those most influential are in Wall st. and neighborhood. The stock of many of these has advanced to, and remains at, astonishingly high figures, that of the Chemical Bank (whose capital is only $300,000) standing at about twelve times its par value, while several others approach this excessive premium. Besides the national banks more than 40 other banks, organized under State laws, are established in the city, and represent 18 or 20 millions capital. The msostprominent of these is the Bank of North America. Many foreign banks, like the Bank of Montreal (which, by the way, is the strong- est financial institution in the world, out- side of the Bank of England) and some other Canadian Banks, the California and Nevada banks of San Francisco, and oth- ers, have permanent agencies here ; there area dozen or so "trust companies" and many private bankers The savings banks, closely supervised bv the State, now num- ber 25, and are scattered all over town. The aggregate capital of the banks of the city, as reported last year, is $65,012,700, to which must be added $53,658,500 sur- plus, — total $118,671,200. Since 1853 all these banks have met to exchange checks and square a daily balance among themselves in an exchange or association called the Clearing House, the operations of which exceeds $150,000,- 000 daily. The Clearing House is at No. 14 Pine St., and is in charge of a manager and assistant manager. Its operations are concisely and clearly described, and pictures of its interior are given in an- article in Tlie Cosviofolitaii for June, 1888, to which the reader is referred. The Clearing House, however, has nothing to show the mere sight-seer, even if he could gain admittance. UNION TRUST COMPANY. Broadway to the City Hall. Some of the noblest and costliest business structures in the city stand on Broad- way below Wall st. At No. i is the exceedingly lofty Washington (or Field's) A TOUR OF THE CITY. 163 Building. At No. 18, next above the Produce Exchange, the grand front of the Welles Building appears. No. 26 is covered by the massive structure of the Standard Oil Company. At No. 45 the beautifully ornamented facade and antique entrance of Aldrich Court will be admired ; this structure cost more than $1,000,000, yet its owners are about to build a second still more costly one far- ther down the street. The Consolidated Exchange, at the corner of New St., and The Tower, at No. 50, are conspicuous buildings ; the last named stands on a lot only 22 ft. wide, yet it runs up to 13 stories (167 ft.) and contains 120 offices. All of these, like most of those mentioned in Wall St., are new, architecturally impos- ing, splendidly fitted within, and return a fair rate of interest upon the investment. There is a greater demand for good oifi- ces in the neighborhood of this mone- tary center than has yet been supplied, although as high as $10 a square foot is asked for many of the suites. The ex- pense of maintaining a building like the Welles or Aldrich Court, approaches $40,000 a year. This brings us to Trinity Church, surrounded by its historic churchyard and lookmg straight down Wall st., " Where Jews and Gentiles most are wont, To throng for trade and last quotations, — Where, hour by hour, the rates of gold Outrival in the ears of people. The quarter-chimes serenely told From Trinity's undaunted steeple." But this noble house of worship is fully described in the chapter on Sunday, and need not be repainted here, further than to say that the church yard and the church itself are open at all suitable hours to visitors. The climbing of the steeple used to be one of the " things to do," but now an equally good view of the city and its environs may be had from the roofs of the Washington or Equitable buildings, or from the tower of the Produce Exchange, to each of which the visitor is carried by an elevator. The long yellow office-building on the northern side of the churchyard was erected by the trustees of the property, and is regarded as a ALDRICH COURT. i64 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. highly desirable one, since a gratifying amount of light and air are admitted from all sides. Just above is the Boreel Building (No. 119) largely occupied by insur- ance companies, and directly across the way, at No. 120, rises the palatial home of the Equitable Life Assurance Society, known far and wide as the Equitable Build- ing. The Equitable. — This towering and sumptuous structure should not be neglected by the sight-seer. Its broad ground-floor corridor runs straight through to Nassau st., and forms a brilliant arcade, paved, walled and adorned with vari- colored marbles, and illuminated by electricity, along which elegant little shops and restaurants are arranged. The letter shute and pneumatic despatch tubes on this floor should be looked at, too. In the basement are a grand array of hydraulic pumps and other machinery, and the largest electric lighting plant in the city devoted to a single establishment. Taking any one of the several eleva- tors the visitor may be carried to the top story and ascend to the roof, where an extensive view of the city is obtained, — a pleasure which no one ought to forego. Descending, he may examine the gorgeously decorated offices and law library of the company, on the second floor. The offices in this building are always fully oc- cujjied, though some of them rent for as high as %\o a square foot of floor space. Liberty st., one of the few that cross lower Broadway, and which is devoted largely to machinery depots; Cortlandt St., leading down to the Jersey City ferry; Maiden Lane, the abode of jewelers, dealers in diamonds and gems, and the makers of instruments of precision; Dey st., with the Western Union Telegraph Company's building on the corner, and John st., opening eastward, are crossed in succession, as one walks on up Broadway. The tall new building at John and Jhoadway is owned by Austin Corbin, and occupied by the Long Island R. R. Co., the Chatham and Corbin banks, etc. This brings us to Fulton st., named in honor of the man, who, if not wholly the originator, was certainly the practical inventor of the steamboat. It is an extremely busy street, all the way down to Fulton Market on one side, and to Washington Market on the other. The lofty home of The Evening Post, erected by William Cullen Bryant and his partners, stands upon the southeast corner, and "begins the long cafalogue of newspapers which congregate between here and the Brooklyn Bridge. The Commercial Advertiser (founded in 1797) is one block down Fulton st. at the corner of Nassau; and only a few steps above Fulton St., on the corner of Broadway and Ann, is the ornamental marble front of The Herald office. The opposite block, between Fulton and Vesey, is occupied by old St. Paul's and its churchyard (see Sunday) ; and the venerable Astor House (see Hotels) fills the succeeding block from Vesey to Barclay. Here, at the parting of the ways, the motley pile of the Post Office rears its huge bulk, with the City Hall in its rear. Broadway stretches northward west of it; to the right Park Row leads off at an angle toward Chatham sq. and the Bowery. The rush and turmoil of traffic here are indescribable. Make your way across to Lehigh Valley Railroad Through the Most Picturesque Region of America. Tlae Mountain and Valley Scenery traversed by this Line is Unsurpassed in Grandeur and Scenic Beauty. DIRECT ROUTE TO THE COAL REGIONS. DOUBLE TRACK. STEEL RAILS. THE POPULAR ROUTE BETWEEN NEW YORK, PHILADELPHIA AND EASTON, BETHLEHEM, ALLENTOWN, MAUCH CHUNK, POTTSVILLE, GLEN SUMMIT, WILKES-BARRE, PITTSTON, SCRANTON, ITHACA, GENEVA, WAVERLY, WATKINS GLEN, ELMIRA, ROCHESTER, BUFFALO, NIAG- ARA FALLS, TORONTO, DETROIT, CHICAGO, ST. LOUIS, AND ALL POINTS WEST. Pullman Palace BuflFet Cars and Chair Cars on all Through Ti'ains. ANTHRACITE COAL IS USED EXCLUSIVELY, Thus avoiding' the dense volume of sraoke that so terribly annoys passengers on lines using Bituminous Coal. TICKET OFFICES: NEW YORK— General Eastern Office, No. 2;i5 Broadway, and 180 East 125th Street: Depot loot of Cortlandt Street; IJepot foot of Desbrosses .Street; all the offices of the Pennsylvania Railroad and New York Transfer Company. BROOKLYN— Pennsylvania Annex, foot of Fulton Street, and 3:29 Cumber- land Stre.'t. E. B. BYINCTON, A. W. NONNEMACHER, General Passenger Agent, General Ticket Agent, SOUTH BETHLEHEM, PA. SOUTH BETHLEnE:\[, PA. W. B. SM3TH, General Eastern Passenger Agent, 235 Broadway, New York. A TOUR OF THE CITY. i6s the more peaceful Post Office side of Park Row, and walk slowly northward with your eye upon the sign-boards that almost cover the fronts of the old, but large, buildings that face you. They are nearly all the names of newspapers — dailies and weeklies known all over the country, besides many you never heard of. Here, to mention only a few, are the publication and editorial offices of the N'ews, Press, Mail and Express and others among dailies. The Star has its office just opposite THE EQUITABLE BUILDING (See page 164.) in Broadway. Beekman st. (named from that old farmer and tanner who owned all this region and " the swamp " besides long decades ago, and founded one of the wealthiest of Knickerbocker families) strikes across Park Row, passes (by Mail st.) to Broadway and continues, under the name of Park Place, westward to North River. A few doors down Beekman is Temple Court, the lofty and elegant busi- ness home of the Nassau Bank and of countless lawyers. On the other side of Beekman the immense iron and stone mass of the Potter Building rises skyward, where The World used to be printed ; and next beyond, covering the point between 1 66 GUIDE 'TO NEW YORK CITY. Park Row and Nassau St., is the new Times building, grandly beautiful in archi- tecture and notable in its construction, since the old building which it replaced was not taken down, nor the work of its occupants interrupted while the new walls arose around and far above them. The Obsen^er, Moore's Rural Neiu Yorker, Forest and Stream, are only a few of the weekly newspapers whose offices may be found in these buildings or further down Park Row. At the head of Nassau St. and just across from City Hall Park, is Printing House Square, an open paved space in the center of which stands a statue of Benjamin Franklin, erected in 1872, after the design of Plassman and at the expense of Capt. De Groot, formerly a steamboat commander on the Hudson ; while Ward's statue of Horace Greeley is seated just in front of T/ie Tribune. Around this limited space, within easy hail of one another, and in the tallest group of buildings on Manhattan Island, are iDublished the Times, Tribune, Sun, Journal, World, and Staats Zeitung, while the Star, Press and several daily newspapers in foreign lant^uages are issued within a quarter of a mile. Here is the newspaper center of New York ; and these precincts are hardly less wide awake and active at mid- night than at midday, for in addition to the workers upon the local press scores of correspondents are busy dispatching the metropolitan news to out-of-town journals. A visit to the offices of one of these " great dailies " would form an interesting item in the list of things to be seen; but it is scarcely practicable, except by invi- tation. The only hours of interest are late at night, when the whole staff, editors, reporters, compositors and printers are intensely busy ; it is not until after two o'clock in the morning that the gigantic presses begin to run, and to toss off their hundreds of newspapers a minute. The City Hall and Court-House, etc., will be found described in an earlier chapter to which the reader is referred. A moment may be spent in running up to the " Governor's room," to get a glimpse of Washington's furniture and some good portraits of public men. If you have no other opportunity to go upon the Brooklyn Bridge (which see), it would be well to walk out a few hundred feet upon the promenade ; or, better yet, spare 15 minutes for a trip across it in the cars and return. Up Broadway and across to Second Avenue. Having completed our sight-seeing in and around the City Hall, let us now take a horse-car on Broadzoay and ride up the central part of that great thoroughfare. We traverse the wholesale district nearly all the way, and pass a long line of railway offices and miscellaneous agencies. Among them, however, are tucked many retail stores: while here and there a hotel, like the Grand Central (once owned by Jim Fisk, and in which he was shot), the Metropolitan and others attract attention. Many widely known names will be observed upon the signs, A TOUR OF THE CITY. 167 Avhere the prevalence of Hebrew patronymics is notable; but no remarkable examples of architecture— except those buildings remarkably bad, — are to be seen. At E. 4th St., we stop the car, and getting off walk to the right (one block) into Lafayette Place, a spacious street extending four blocks north and south, from Great Jones (E. 3d) st. to Astor Place. The great brick structure at the foot of the Place is an establishment in which several Roman Catholic benevolent agencies are housed. On the opposite northeast corner of E. 4th st., the DeVinne Press is conspicuous ; there is where The Century and St. iViiho/as and the fine publica- tions of the Grolier Club are printed. Just above, on the right, an old residence is occupied by the " Middle " Dutch Ref. Church— the oldest organization in the city (See Churches). Its meeting-house stood opposite until recently. The yel- low front a few doors beyond, where tables can be seen through the windows, is tlie Aldine Club, whose members are publishers and literary workers ; it is the favorite luncheon jjlace of men of that numerous ilk in this quarter of town. Op- posite, the late Father Drumgoold's IVcwslwys' Lodging House is showy with yellow brick and elaborate stone carvings : this establishment is due wholly to the remarkable laliors in that field of a single-hearted priest, and was paid for by a mass of small contributions, in 1886. Its cellar is said to contain a deep well miraculously filled with water after the engineers and well-diggers had abandoned work in despair. The long line of Corinthian pillars beyond it supports the por- tico of a hotel suitably named The Colonnade. Sieghortner's restaurant (the Ger- man Delmonico) and the offices of T/ie Christian Union are opposite. Then the grand brown-stone fa5ade of the Astor Library rears itself upon the right (see Libraries) and a moment may be spared to enter and glance at the book-covered walls of its three great rooms. This brings us nearly to the head of the Place, where the convergence of Astor Place a7id 8t/i st. forms an opening, where, not so many years ago, was the south- ern boundary fence of the farm of Capt. Richard Randall, the founder of the .Sailor's Snug Harbor on Staten Island. At the time of his death, in 1801, the large farm here and his well-known octagonal house were valued at about $40,000; this endowment was so invested as now to be worth about $15,000,000. Upon the wedge between Astor Place and 8th st. now occupied by the tall and handsome new structure of the Mercantile Library, stood, until 1890, a noble brick structure called Clinton Ha'll. It was built as a theatre, half a century ago; and at its doors in May, 1849, occurred the Astor Place riot, precipitated by the rivalry between the American actor Forrest, and the English actor Macready, which resulted in a mobbing of the latter's company and friends at the close of a per- formance, and the loss of several lives. Let us now turn to the right and walk westward towards Second av. Fourth av. is at once encountered, looking down which to the right the upper end of the l68 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Bowery is seen. On the point of land opposite, between the divergence of Fourth and Third avs. from the Bowery, is the pile of brown stone sheltering the schools and reading rooms of the Cooper Union, for which a moment may be spared, run- ning in by the rear stairways, underneath which are the entrances into the huge subterranean lecture hall. The massive brick across the way from the rear of the Cooper Union is the Bible House (See Sunday). Continuing along 8th st. we cross Third av. underneath its elevated railway (9th st. station) and walk on past the short Stuyvesant Place, which takes its name from that old Knickerbocker, the last of the Dutch governors. He owned the lands here- about, lived in a big stone farmhouse on the Bowery, and was buried in 167 1 at his chapel, just beyond, upon the site of which now stands St. Mark's Church, (else- where described) within a green plat at the corner of 8th st. and Second av. The large modern church beyond, facing us across the street as we come to St. Mark's and Second av., is the Baptist Tabernacle, built in 1850, but remodeled since. Stuyvesant Square and Gra mercy Parti. We now turn up Seco)id av. and find ourselves in a handsome thoroughfare, the houses along which (in this part) are almost wholly occupied by wealthy and influ- ential Germans. On the corner of nth st. the building of the iV. Y. Historical Society will be noticed, and two blocks further the N. Y, Eye and Ear Infirmary. At the left-hand corner of 14th st. stands the old Fourteenth Street Presbyterian Church. The house of Senator William M. Evarts is at No. 231, on the opposite corner ; and at 15th st. we find the beautiful Stnyvesant Square, occupying the space of four blocks, filled with fine old trees, and surrounded by elegant residences. This was a part of the Stuyvesant property, and its west side is bounded by Ruth- erford Place, keeping the name of another old family, whose descendants dwell near by. The double-towered church overlooking the square is St. George'' s (Prot. Epis.), which is said to have the largest seating capacity of any church in the city except the R. C. Cathedral. Beside it are the Rutherford Place Friends' Meeting House and school (Quaker) — plain brick structures without steeples or ornament. On this square remain many old New York families — the Fish's, Stuyvesants, De Voes, Rutherfords, and others. It is a charming dwelling place. Above Stuyvesant square. Second av. grows more business-like; and leaving it we turn eastward and walk through E. 20th st., which in this block is mainly given up to private stables. We re-cross Third av. under its " L " road, and presently come to the fashionable seclusion of Gramercy Park. The tall Gramercy Park Hotel overshadows us, — the home of Emma Thursby, Minnie Palmer, and many society people. A moment later we cross the head of Irving Place, which has that name from here south to 14th st., but north of the park becomes Lexington av. and runs Straight to Harlem. CHECK YOUR BAGGAGE AT YOUR HOUSE TO POINT OF DESTINATION. DODDS EXPRESS. Baggage Checked from Hdtel or Residence to Destin tion. Through Checks Furnished when Baggage is Collected. SPECIAL DELIVERY BETWEEN POINTS IN New York, Brooklyn, Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington. Baggage checked fi-om hotel oi- residence and delivered to hotel or resi- dence at point of destination. No delay. No annoyance of checking at depot. No inconvenience of hunting up baggage at destination. OFFICES OF THE COMPANY. «44 Broadwiiy (bet. 22d and 23d Sts., East Side), . . . New York l;W.3 Broadway (bet. 34rh and 35th Sts., West Side), 849 Bro idway (bet. 13th and 1 4th Sts., West Side), ... 1 Astor House (N. W. Cor. Broadway and Vesey St.), ■. " 737 Sixth Avenue (N. W. Cor. 42d St.). ... .'iil Seventh Avenue (N. E. Cor. 3^th St.), ..... " 1170 Ninth Avenue Cnear Cor. 72d St.), . " Grand Central Depot (on 4ed St., N. Y. & N. H. R. R.), . . " Pennsylvania R. R. Depot (foot of Deslrosses St.), . " " " (foot of Cortlandt St.), Central R. R. of N. J. Depot (foot of Liberty St.), ... 4 Court Street (City Hall Square), ....... Brooklyn !5'.J Nassau Street (near Washington St.), '• 860FultonStree'. (Cor. Clinton Avenue), ..... " 98 Broadway, Williamsburgh 134 East 12.5th Street (S. W. Cor. Lexington Avenu ■). . Harlem 2G4 West 125th Street (near Cor. 8th Avenue) .... " 18 Exchange Place (near Ferry), Jersey City 789 Broad Street, ....... Newark, N. J. P. R. R. Station (Market St.), j^^°°The public may rely on the prompt transaction of all business entrusted to this Company. K*r" Address all communications for inattention, incivility, or delays to the Executive Office, 1323 Broadway, New Y'ork, N. Y. A TOUR OF THE CITY. 169 Gramercy Park, whose name commemorates the old Gramercy farm, is the property of the owners of the surrounding property, and its i)rivileges go with their title-deeds. Its gites are opened only by these proprietors, and its pleasant walks are reserved for the nurses and children of the neighboring families. Here dwells an aristocratic colony of old and wealthy families, who have thus far withstood the advance of the commercial tide northward, among whom are many well-known persons. On this 20th st. side, at Nos. 116-11S was the home of the late Governor Samuel J- Tilden. which is said to contain greater treasures of fur- niture, books and bric-a-brac than any other residence in the city. It is a palace among palaces. Ne.xt to it, at No. 120 is the club house of The Flayers, de- scribed under Clubs. Other residents are Cyrus W. P'ield, to whom we owe the Atlantic cables, and now the principal stockholder in the elevated railwavs ; Justice David Dudley Field, of the U. S. Supreme Court ; Mrs. Conrtlandt Palmer, at whose house, during the life -of her husband, the Nineteenth Century Club was wont to meet ; John Bigelow, Abram Hewitt and the Coopers, Edwin Booth, the tragedian, William Steinway, of piano fame, Nicholas Fish, Brander Matthews, the dramatist, Joseph Howard, of newspaper repute, and many professional musicians — especially singers and vocal teachers, of whom Signors Agramonte and Errani are most widely known. Union Square and Central Broadway. Let us walk on through E. 20th st., as far as Fourth av. On this corner stands the red-and-white Church of All Souls, where Dr. Bellows used to preach. On the next corner below is the Battle of Gettysburg cyclorama ; and at Fourth aV. and i8th st. the immense Florence, — the largest of the down-town apartment houses, and one of the most elegant. One block more and we reach Union Square. — We enter it at its quietest (northeast) corner, where E. 17th St. crosses Fourth av. The Everett House is on our right, and the Clarendon Hotel on the left. A broad paved space called The Plaza, borders this northern side, and may be illumined at night by the picturesque row of lamps along the curbing. Here military parades and out-door meetings are often held, the speakers finding a rostrum on the balcony of the Sanitary Cottage. Overlooking this plaza are the windows of Tlie Century and St. Nicholas editorial rooms. The Square itself is an oval park of three acres or so, shaded by large trees, and orna- mented by a handsome fountain and statues. On the Fourth av. side are a row of hotels, restaurants and shops, among which the Singer Sewing Machine office is tallest. South of the Square runs the busy line of 14th st. — where the Union Square Theatre, the Morton House and several fine shops are conspicuous. Here, in the midst of a paved space, stands an equestrian statue of George Washington. It is of heroic size, was modelled by Mr. H. K. Browne, and holds an outstretched hand as if in remonstrance at the wrangles of the crowd of news- boys who assemble here every afternoon to buy newspapers from the delivery carts of the News, Sun, World, Telegram and other evening newspapers. GUIDE TO NEW YORJs: CITY. Straight against the southern end of the square breaks the whole traffic-current of IJroadway, to swerve to the west of it, and sweep in an augmented tide along its further side, where 14th st. adds its quota. Here, where the crowd is densest, has been ])laced that bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln, seated in the chair of state with the emancipation proclamation in his hand, which was erected by popular subscription soon after Lincoln's assassination. The sculptor is H. K. Browne, who is thought to have succeeded better than he did with the equestrian Washing- ton, just mentioned, at the other corner of the .Square. Between these two bronzes of heroic size, and facing down Broadway, stands the life-sized figure of Lafayette, which was designed by Bartholdi, the sculptor of the Liberty statue in the harbor, and erected in 1876 at the cost of the French residents of the city. " It represents a man of graceful figure and handsome, ojDen face, in the act of making offer of his sword to the coun- try he admired — the country that sorely needed his aid. The left hand is extended as if in greeting and friendly self- surrender, and the right hand, which holds the sword, is pressed against the breast as if implying that his whole heart goes vith his sword. The statue well expresses the warm and generous devotion which, as we all know, the French Marquis rendered to this coun- try during the War of the Revolution, and is a fitting me- morial to the noble friend of Washington and of America." Up Broadway. — A very handsome drinking fountain is among the ornaments on the west side of Union Square ; and opposite it, hang the signs of w e 1 1-known merchants. Be- ginning at 14th St., and not at- tempting to note all of them, the stroller up Broadway passes the Lincoln Building, Brentano's THE LINCOLN BUILDING. i^ews and periodical shop, and then Tiffany's great storehouse of jewels and articles de virtu. Schirmer's and A TOUR OF THE CITY. 171 Pond's music stores, the piano house of Decker Bros., and Sarony's and Rock- wood's photograph galleries are next noticeable. Then we enter upon The Ladies' Half-mile. — Just around the corner, in E. i8th st., is the office of Bt'IforcVs Magazine and the bazaar of the First Japanese Trading Company. Many artists have studios in this neighborhood. Between i8th and 19th sts. Vantine's great Japanese store, and Arnold & Constable's dry- goods house nearly fill the block on the left, with Sloane's carpet house on the right. All along here jewelers, fruit-sellers, and other shops make a brave window-show. The isolated house (the home of the Gillette family) standing on the northeast corner of rgth st., is a grim relic of the days when this part of Broadway was filled with residences whose owners never expected to be driven away so soon. Opposite it is the Gorham Silver Company, and next beyond are the art-furniture depot of Hertz Brothers on the right and Lord & Taylor's immense establishment on the left. In the next block (20th to 21st sts.) the Continental Hotel and Purssell's bakery and restaurant nearly fill the space on the right, and on the left is a row of gay shops, and one of Park & Tilford's big grocery stores. At 21st st. Broadway begins to widen out, and is filled on both sides with the offices of many railway and express companies, telegraph stations, etc. The Bartholdi Hotel occupies the right hand corner of 23d St. ; and from the roof of the small triangular Erie Railway office, between Broad- way and Fifth av., the " stereopticon " man shows his nightly array of picturesque advertisements, thrown on a screen against the lofty side of the Cumberland Hotel. On the night of important election days, he exposes the returns as fast as re- ceived, and great crowds fill the open spaces in 23d st., and along Madison sq. to which we have now returned. A Ride up Fifth Avenue. Crossing Madison Square, described in the beginning of the present chapter, we stop one of the Fifth Avenue stages, and climbing to a seat upon its roof, prepare to enjoy a ride up America's grandest street. " Fifth Avenue," to quote a recent eulogist, "is the Belgravia of the American metropolis, the center of its fashion and splendor, the home of its merchant- princes. It is at its best on a pleasant Sunday, at the time when the churches are out ; or on a bright afternoon, when its long line of carriages are rumbling away toward the park. From Washington Square to Central Park, a distance of two miles and a half, it presents an unbroken array of splendid dwellings and noble churches, except here and there in its lower portion, where business establishments which deal, for example, in musical instruments, pictures, jewelry, and articles of a costly and ornamental nature, have encroached on its fashionable private charac- ter. Many of the structures in this long line of costly domiciles possess marked beauty of architectural design, and all are built in fine massive blocks and chiefly of brown stone. Here, indeed, on every side are gorgeous club houses, churches 172 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. notable for theii" beauty and a domestic architecture of rare variety and comfort, with picture galleries and rich porticos, and long vistas of Connecticut brown- stone palaces, the homes of incalculable wealth and splendor. In spite of the uniformity of appearance which conies of a general use of the same building mate- rial, and a similar style of structure, sufficient variety and character are given the thoroughfare, by numerous magnificent church edifices and the few hotels and private dwellings of a different style of architecture, to relieve the sombre and massive dignity which would otherwise stamp the aspect of the street. To describe in detail the many objects of interest 4;o be seen on this avenue would require more space than we have at command- It has been appropriately said, that an inquisitive visitor should, on taking a- stroll up Fifth avenue, be accom- panied by a herald-at-arms, a mercantile register, an elite directory, and a wise old clubman with his stores of personal and family gossip." Delmonicd's and the Brunswick at 26th st. are beside us as we start, the latter running to 27th st. on the right, while the great Victoria Hotel, owned by Mrs. Paran Stevens, is on the southwest corner of 27th st. The office of the sportsmen's magazine. Outing, is in the next block on the right; and all along the street in this neighborhood will be noticed shops for the sale of pictures, bric-a-brac, fine furniture, foreign books and fashionable costumes and millinery, for " the Avenue " has been invaded by business during the last few years with astonishing rapidity. The Forum is another magazine published in this locality and farther up are others of less notoriety. At No. 244 (southwest cor. 28th, lives Mrs. Paran Stevens, opposite the tall Knickerbocker flats ; at 236 are the rooms of the Ohio Society ; at 267 (northeast cor. 29th st.) those of the " swell " Cahtmet Club. On the northwest corner of 29th st. stands the imposing stone Collegiate {Dutch Reformed) Church (see Sunday) ; this church was organized in 1623, but the present building dates from 1854. The Knickerbocker Club is on the northeast cor- ner of 32d. and the houses on the left, filling the whole block between 33d and 34th sts., are the Astor houses, the first the home of the late John Jacob, and the second that of William Waldorf Astor, the present head of this, the wealthiest family in America. At No. 319 are the rooms of the Coaching Club. This brings us to 34th, one of the prominent cross-streets, beyond which rises the gentle incline of Murray Hill, — This name is applied to all the elevated region covering several blocks in this neigborhood, where, twenty years ago, was clustered that fashionable class, which now is usually designated " the four hundred." It took its name from the mansion (" Incleberg") and family of Robert Murray, an eminent Quaker merchant of the Revolutionary period, and father of the grammarian, Lindley Murray. It was his patriotic wife, who, by her personal charms, conversa- tion and wine, detained the British officers here on the day they crossed over from Long Island long enough to allow Putnam to pass safely by with the remnant of the American army, hidden by intervening woods, and join Washington's forces on Harlem Heights. This mansion is said to have stood close by where 37th st. now crosses the avenue. A TOUR OF THE CITY. 173 Tlie Italian-looking palace of white marble, standing upon a terrace at the left, is the mansion built and occupied by A. T. Stewart. It is said to have cost, fur- nished, $3,000,000, and has been leased for a long time by the Manhattan Club, who pay $37,000 a year rent. Judge Hilton, Stewart's e.xecutor, lives near by. The small building next beyond is a gallery for the exhibition and sale of pictures, etc. ; and next beyond that (southwest cor. 35th st.) is the house of the New York Club, — an old mansion for which $250,000 was paid before remodeling. The block between 36th and 37th sts., on the right, is taken up by the house of Pierre Lorillard. On the left, the beautifully carved front of Mr. J. C. Drayton's house at No. 374 will attract admiration ; the St. Nicholas Club is on the southwest corner of 36th St., in the old homestead of Gov. E. D. Morgan ; at No. 400, in the next block, lives Robert G. Ingersoll ; and on the next corner is " Sherry's " — a rival for dinners and dances to Delmonico's. The northwest corner of 37th st. is the site of the Brick Chtirch (Dr. Van Dyke's, Presbyterian). On the right, between 37th and 38th sts., live the Webbs, Turnures and Van Aukens ; on the northeast corner of 38th st., Austin Corbin, and next door (429) was the home of the late Henry Bergh. At No. 435 is the club house of Delta Kappa Epsilon ; and at the corner of 39th st. rises the very conspicuous front of the Union League Club, near where the Rutgers' house used to stand, when this was a rural suburb of the young city. The only remaining house on that block is the splendid home of Fred. W. Vanderbilt, No. 459. The large isolated house nearly opposite is that of Mrs. Mary Wendell. At 450 is the Republican Club, and the next two blocks on that (left-hand) side, from 40th to 42d sts., are given up to the Distributing Reservoir, behind which is Bryant Park, where the Crystal Palace was erected for the great exhibition of 1857. Several fine new buildings have been constructed opposite the reservoir within a few years, the lower stories of which are devoted to business and the upper stories to flats. The Cohitnbia Bank Building, on the corner of 42d st, is regarded as one of the architectural gems of the city, and deserves special attention in that respect ; its upper stories are divided into bachelors' suites. Forty-second st. is the great thoroughfare east and west of this middle part of town, and the massive walls and roofs of the Grand Central Depot will be seen at the right. On the northern corners are two prominent private hotels, the Bristol and the Hamilton. At 506, next beyond the Bristol, is the city house of Russell Sage, whose real home is in Ithaca, N. Y. ; and opposite him on the northeast corner of 43d St., stands the beautiful Synagogue Emmanu-El, the leading Hebrew congregation. The Cd'w/'z/^'j'j new club house is to be built on the other corner. The Sherwood, on the corner of 44th st., is an expensive private hotel. The church on the southwest corner of 45th st. is the Divine Paternity (Rev. Chas. H. Eaton); and that diagonally opposite, with the angels upon the four corners of the tower, is 174 GUIDE ro NEW YORK CITY. the Church of the Heavenly Rest {'^&\. D. P. Morgan). The great Windsor Hotel ViO-^ fills the block upon the right from 46th to 47th sts., opposite which lives Joseph \V. Harper, of Harper & Brothers (No. 562). Jay Gould occupies the house, No. 579, on the northeast corner of 47th st. ; and that on the next (southeast cor. 48th St.) is the home of Robert Goelet. The beautiful church with flying but- tresses on the left, is the meeting-house of another congregation of the Collegiate Dutch Reforn'ied Church, and was erected in 1872. Two grand residences fill the block on the left between 47th and 48th sts. : in the first (604) lives Wm. P. Draper ; and in the second Ogden Goelet. The Belgravia and Buckingham hotels occupy most of the next block on the right; and the Cathedral (which see) fills the block from 50th to 51st sts., next beyond. The marble buildings in the rear are the residence of the Archbishop and the Rectory, where his assistants dwell. Behind them, on Madison av., may be seen the palatial block occupied by White- law Reid, editor of The Trilnuie, Roswell Smith (chief owner of The Century) and others. Opposite the Cathedral, at No. 634, lives D. O, Mills, the California millionaire, and then come " ^/^i? Vanderbilt housesP The first of these, on the northwest corner of 51st St., is where Wm. H. Vanderbilt lived, and where his widow is still domiciled ; connected with it is the second (No. 642) extending to 52d St. which is the home of Mr. Vanderbilt's daughter and her husband, Wm. D. Sloane. His next neighbor. No. 2 W. 52d St., is Col. Elliott F. Shepard, another relative, and the editor of the Alail and Express. On the other side of 52d st. (No. 660) is the home of W. K. Vanderbilt, former president of the New York Central Ry. and present head of the house. Mrs. Osgood, a sister, lives at No. 697 Fifth av. The institution just beyond the Cathedral is the R. C. Orphan Asylum, the girls' department of which is seen in the rear, on Madison av. St. Thotnas''s Church occupies the northwest corner of 53d st., and at 54th st. are the houses of H. M. Flagler (No. 685) and of W^m. Rockefeller (No. 689), President of the Standard Oil Company, filling the two corners on the right, while Calvin S. Brice dwells at 693, just beyond. These are opposite St. Luke's Hospital : and the next objects of special interest are the Plaza (and the new Plaza Hotel) at the 59/// st. entrance to Central Park. The Avenue now overlooks the most improved portion of the park, and away at the left, down 59th st., can be seen the tall and handsome fa9ades of the De Na- varro row of apartment houses, described on page 173. On the right the line of beau- tiful mansions continues, becoming more varied and interesting in architecture as we proceed, and all are the houses of people locally prominent in business, politics or society, but the fortress-like liuilding of \.\\& Lenox Library, and the grand new structure of the Progress Club will attract most attention. Between 66th and 67th st.s., is a block of houses built entirely different from any others on the street, and A TOUR OF THE CITY. 175 at the same time presenting a pleasing appearance. One of them is occupied by Mrs. Barrios, the widow of General Barrios, the Central American Dictator. Lenox Library occupies the square from 70th to 71st sts., and there are two very fine houses beyond this — one is in white marble, and the other resembles a French chateau. By the time you have reached the park gate at 8ist st., and the Metropolitan Mnsenm of Art, you have finished the best of Fifth av., until you see it again in TIarlem. Remarks upon Apartment Houses and Domestic Life in New York. — The peculiar shape and conditions of Manhattan Island: the desire of the peo- ple in or near "society," to dwell close together, so that no invidious distinctions of locality may be made by irreverent outsiders ; the fact that the majority of New Yorkers are men of business, and must live near it ; and the extreme costli- ness of desirable land, consequent upon the circumstances just mentioned, have combined to make New York a compact city, several stories high — or several layers deep — rather than a wide-spreading accumulation of single houses, as are London and Philadelphia. In those parts of the city where the poor congregate because they can go nowhere else, blocks of " tenement " houses, as high as the law will permit, cover many square miles of the surface with superimposed layers of humanity. At the other extreme, men whose large incomes enable them to choose what way they will live elect to do the same thing — only they make their tenement houses as convenient and luxurious as a suite of rooms at Windsor Castle (probably far more so), and call them " apartments." But after all, it is not so much a matter of taste, as it is one of room, and to some degree, the saving of expense, though this is not considerable, since in the most expensive apartment- houses as high as $6oo a month may be paid for a single suite, while from $200 to to $300 a month is common. The terms " apartment-house " and " flat " must be distinguished, by the way. The former means a suite of rooms without a kitchen or any means of regular cooking, the occupants takmg their meals in the restau- rant attached to the hotel, or somewhere else. In a " flat " on the contrary a kitchen and every convenience for housekeeping are included. Some buildings contain suites of both kinds. The only difference between a flat and a single house of the same size, in a block, is : In a flat your whole home is on one level — which is a decided advantage ; and the noises made by your neighbors reach you from above and below, instead of through the partition walls, which may or may not be an advantage, according as you look at it. The new and expensive build- ings of this kind that overlook Central Park are imposing and beautiful architec- turally and are fitted throughout the interior with lavish magnificence. The largest of them, until recently, was the vast many-gabled "Dakota," on 72d st. and Eighth av., which stood until lately quite alone, and was ugly enough ; but its appearance improves as other buildings gradually go up in the vacant lots about it. It was built by Clark, of Singer sewing-machine fame, and the rent of one of its suites for a year would almost buy a satisfactory country house for the same family. Nearer, and still greater in size, are the series of contiguous houses facing the park, along 59th st. near Seventh av., which are known collectively as the Central Park or Navarro flats, and consist of several huge buildings ornamented after a pseudo-Spanish style of architecture, and named the " Madrid," the " Cordova," the " Granada," the " Lisbon," etc. The visitor should take pains to see their nobly beautiful fa9ades, with stately entrances, Moorish arches and indented balconies, if he cannot examine the magnificence of their interior 176 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. appointments. They are said to have cost more tiian $7,000,000, and were not finished until 1889. Several of the flats in these buildings are owned by those who occupy them and who pay a proportion with other owners of the current expenses for general maintenance of the building. The " Osborne," at Seventh av. and 57th st., is another eleven-story structure of the same character, whose entrance, with its grand stone portal, heavy oaken doors and pannellings of rare marbles, is only a foretaste of the luxury within. Many others approaching these might be mentioned, in the best of which the rooms are finished in hard woods — mahogany in many cases — have inlaid floors, ceilings stuccoed and frescoed, steam-heat, electric lights, stained glass windows, etc. In such buildings, many of which are really fire-proof, there is a reception-room and little oftice at the entrance, and men-servants (or at any rate one servant) to announce visitors and attend to the door generally. Elevators are provided and each suite of rooms has a hallway ot its own opening upon the stairways and the elevator, so that quite as much privacy is maintained as in a sej^arate house. Of this character, and more or less equal to those heretofore mentioned; are the Florence, Fourth av. and 28th st ; the Strathmore, Broadway and 52d St.; the Saratoga, Broadway and 52d St.; the Newport, 200 W. 52d St.; the Grenoble. 57th st and Seventh av. ; the Chelsea Home Club, W. 23d st. bet. Seventh and Eighth avs. ; the Delmonico, 79th st. near Second av. ; the Osborne, northwest cor. 57th st. and Seventh av. ; the Hoffman Arms, northivest cor. 59th St. and Madison av. ; the Berkeley, 20 P'ifth av. ; the Randolph, 12 W. i8th St.; the Rockland, 140 W. i6th st. ; St. Augustine, 264 W. 57th st. ; the Heathwood, 345 W. 58th st. ; the Garfield, 336 W. 56th st. ; the St. Albans, 349 W. 58th St. ; the Palisade, 325 W. 56th st. ; the Ashton, 53d st. and Lexington av. the Alarlborough, 356 W. 58th st. ; the Hetherington, Fourth av. and 63d st. ; the Lonsdale, Fourth av., bet. 62d and 63d sts. ; the Washington, Seventh av., bet. I2istand I22dsts. ; tlie Beverley, Sixth av. and 125th St.; the Eisleben, -Sixth av. and 125th St.; the St. Catherine's, Madison av. and 59th st. ; the Evelyn, Ninth av. and 72d St.; the Belgravia, Fifth av. and 49th st. ; the Manhattan, Second av. and 86th St. ; the Ariston, Broadway and 55th St.; the Rutland, Broadway and 57th st. ; the Dalhousie, 59th st. and Sixth av. and several others. Below these in grade, — though no distinct line can lie drawn, — are cheaper flats and those cheaper still, down to an acknowledged " tenement-house." These are on the less fashionable streets and the better of them are respectable and comfort- able ; though a family of refinement will hesitate to occupy a suite which costs less than $45 to $60 a month, if any other arrangement within their means is possible. Some of the better ones have elevators and a hall-boy, and are furnished in hard wood — ash or pine — and contain gas-fixtures, ornamental mantels and mirrors, and private hallway. Stationary wash-tubs are placed either in the kitchen or in a laundry on the top floor, and clothes are always hung upon the roof to dry. The houses where a man-servant is not stationed at the door to receive visitors always have a bell, a letter-box, and a name-plate within the vestibule for each apartment. Above the name-plate is a speaking-tube, through which a visitor, after ringing the bell may be called upon to announce his name. Then if the tenant chooses to do so, he may open the door by means of an electric lever, when the visitor may enter and pass to the floor occu])ied by the person he wishes to see. Several elegant structures, ot which the " l>eiiedick," in Washing- ton square is a good example, are devoted wholly to bachelor apartments, and in some of them a caterer who lives in the basement, will serve meals in the rooms, as ordered, after the manner of lodging-houses in London. The old term " fam-' ily hotel" has nearly disappeared from use, A TOUR OF THE CITY. 177 /Across Centra/ Park to Harlem, The Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Obelisk have been fully described in the preceding chapter upon Central Park. After as long a halt in the Museum as you think your time will permit, you can make your way straight westward across the park. It would be idle to attempt to describe the precise paths, but your first objective point is the Belvedere, where it will be worth your while to climb to the top of the tower, and overlook the "wide and beautiful expanse of park and city spread out in all directions. From the Belvedere you can pick your way down over the exposed rocks at the corner of the reservoir and so reach Eighth av. by unfrequented paths, or you may follow the asphalted walks that lead to the Ram- ble, the Cave, and so on over to the exit at 77th st. and Eighth av. Here you are immediately opposite the American Museum of Natural History in Manhattan Square, which is described under the head Central Park, and to which half an hour at least should be given. This done, walk out to the station of the elevated railway at 8ist st. and Ninth av., and take the train for Harlem. The objects of interest along this route, which center at the very lofty curve on iioth St., have been catalogued in Chapter IV., where the route of this Sixth Av. line is described, and they need not be repeated. If one has plenty of time it may repay him to go to the terminus at iSSth st., and return ; but if time presses, the tourist is advised to alight at 125th St., and there take a cable car going east. This wide street (125th) is the Broadway of Ha riff u, and has been surprisingly built up and improved upon during the last few years. Fine shops now line its whole length, and the architecture of many of its newer buildings, such -as the Harlem branch of the Y. M. C. A., the bank on the corner of Fourth av. and several others, is highly ornamental. Two clubhouses will be observed; and the splendid driveways of Fifth, Sixth (or Lenox) and particularly of Seventh av., thronged with handsome equipages every pleasant afternoon, will repay attention. Fourth av. is underlaid by the railway tracks of the N. Y. Central, New Haven, and Harlem railroads, and the last named has a station there, whence you can go by steam to the Grand Central depot for ten cents. Third av. will be found a crowded thoroughfare, here, as below, and there is a station of its elevated road at this street. It will be more interesting, however, for the stranger tc return to the southern part of the city by the .Second A v. line, the station for which is at 127th St., where are seen the Harlem Ri-rcr and the coaling wharves, factories, steamboats and barges that line its low banks and ply upon its sluggish and yel- ■ low surface. Across the river are the ugly precincts of Motthaven, traversed by the Suburban Elevated Railway and fringed with beer-gardens. A description of the ride down Second av. will be found in Chapter IV., to which 178 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITV. the reader is referred. From these cars he gets a good idea of the East River and its shores and islands, with the charitable and correctional buildings, belonging to the city, that are isolated upon them. The lower course of his journey is through the densely crowded German and Jewish tenements of the East Side, to Chatham Square. Here he may alight and take a horse-car, or the Third av. El. Ry. up the Bowery (see Night Ramble) to his hotel. X. THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. O great city in the world is so grandly situated with reference to the sea and navigable rivers as is New York. Other cities and seaports have beautiful, hill- girt harbors, as Yokohama and Rio Janeiro ; other cities stand at the mouth of broad rivers, as New Or- leans, Alexandria, and Shanghai ; other cities spread, like Constantinople, along the curving shores of a strait, protected from the fury of the outer gales ; but only New York combines ail these advantages in her insular site, under a beauty of landscape arrangement all her own and the admiration of the world. The horizon seen from her roofs is the blue Atlantic. The harljor, pleasingly irregular in outline, studded with islands, girt by low hills, and encompassed by cities and villages that glow brightly in the sunshine, and at night form a galaxy of brilliants, lacks only the snows of Fujiyama or the broken towers of the Organ Mts. to surpass Rio or Yokohama. The East River is an American Bosphorus, leading from the sea to Long Island Sound; and the Hudson River (in connection with the Erie Canal) forms the water-highway for a commerce geographically as extensive as that of the Mississippi, the Hoang-Ho, or the Volga. It would be possible to embark in a canoe at the Battery, and never leaving it, save for an occa- sional short " carry," to float to the borders of Alaska, or even down to the Arctic Sea at the mouth of the Mackenzie ; or in another direction, by a carriage of only a few miles across the main range of the Rockies, to descend the Columbia to the Pacific in Oregon. This is a glimpse of one reason why New York has become the foremost entrepot of the New World and will always be the commercial me- tropolis of the United States. It is the natural converging point of trade-routes. Three grand divisions of this chapter present themselves, — The Hudson or North River, the East River, and the Harbor, which receives both of the foregoing i8o GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. and other rivers besides. A glance at the map attached to this book will make this plain to the stranger. The Hudson River. Panorama of the River. — The source of the Hudson is on the slopes of Mt. Marcy, in the heart of the Adirondacks. It is a clear and dashing mountain tor- rent as far down as Glens Falls, where a great dam checks its speed and diverts its currents to the turning of factory wheels. This is the beginning of its period of slavery, and the waters fret their course through flumes and over dams, and keep machinery turning all the way down to Troy and Albany, 125 miles above New York. Here the great Mohawk enters from the west, the Erie Canal terminates, connecting the river with Lake Erie 400 miles west, and here is the head of its navigation. The Helderberg Hills on the west and the Berkshire Hills on the east confine and straighten its current into a channel long ago plowed out by an enormous glacier. Then come long and quiet spaces, with low and sometimes marshy banks, until the Catskills reach forward to make bluff banks again. These passed, the pretty hills of Kondoiit and Rhuiebeck, succeed, where the historic Esopus comes in and the lofty banks begin to be dotted with the costly and pic- turesque houses and vineyards of the fortunate merchants who can spend a part of their time, at least, in the midst of these invigorating and delightful scenes. The boat glides past the wharves of Poiighkeepsie, and under the great cantilever bridge which spans the narrowed stream at this point; but Vassar College is invisible. Then the Hudson expands into the shining lake which the old Dutchmen called Tappan Zee, where the windows of Neiubiifg on the right reflect signals of sun- light across to Fishkill on the left, quite as they did a century ago, when Wash- ington's little army had its headquarters here. Then a new range of hills — the Hudson Highlands — rear their bold front across the path, and press more and more closely upon the valley until it is contracted into the splendid gorge where Storm King frowns down, and the batteries of West Point awake the echoes of a hundred rocky hills. Escaping from this magnificent portal — the scene of so much physical beauty and of so many romances, and which has been reproduced in so many an ambitious story or painting — the eddying current finds room to broaden again. On the right the shore is abrupt and rocky, with Uunderberg frowning down behind and the Palisades rising up ahead. lona Island — a favorite place for picnics from New York — lurks near the western shore. Haverstratu and Nyack are villages on the bank, reddened by vast brick yards. Opposite on the eastern shore are Peehskill, Sing Sing, with its famous penitentiary, Tarryto7vn, celebrated by Washington Irving, and the closely connected suburbs of the metropolis. Shipping of every sort crowds the waters, and railway trains flash up and down along each bank ; while in the rear of the busy towns rise hills, some- THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. i8i times forested, sometimes cultivated, sometimes village-crowned. Still farther down the left bank becomes more abrupt, and the right stands boldly out in the pannelled front of the Palisades. Gradually the precipitous cliffs upon the western shore decrease and grow bare until they finally disappear, and the city appears. Below the bushy headland of Hoboken, the Jersey shore sways backward, and is lined with the crowded wharves of Hoboken and Jersey City; while on the New York side the expanding river trends to the left (eastward) and is crowded with ocean steamships and the white hulls of the boats that run up the river, to ports on Long Island Sound and to the ocean beaches. A score of ferry boats are seen at once, crossing from shore to shore, and three times as many more may be counted in their slips. Great steamers, — European " liners," coasters to the Gulf of Mexico, the West Indies and South America ; men-of-war at their anchorage off 23d st. ; numberless tugs, racing about alone, proudly tow- ing some noble ship to sea, or laboriously dragging a long line of picturesque barges ; and innumerable sailing craft, large and small, foreign and domestic, dig- nified and ridiculous. All these meet and pass and cross one another's bows with little hindrance, for there is room enough for each. The width between New York and Jersey City is now uniformly close upon a mile, and the depth from 70 to 80 feet in mid-channel ; and only this straight stretch below Hoboken is properly called " North River.'" Many nropositions as to bridging it have been made, and a tunnel has long been under way, but so many mechanical difficulties are encountered that progress is slow and success doubtful. The North River Water-front of New York. — The available water-front of New York on the Hudson is said to be no less than 13 miles; at present, how- ever, there is little commerce, and only an occasional temporary wharf, above 23d St. The water-front (nominally Twelfth av.) above that is mostly given over to lumber and stone yards, factories, etc., which receive and discharge their heavy materials either from vessels, or from the cars of the Hudson River R. R., whose line passes along the water's edge from Spuyten Duyvil to 30th st. Washington Heights and Manhattanville occupy the elevated shore with pleasant residences down to the Fort Lee Ferry. Between 128th and 72d st.. Riverside Park and Drive beautify the bank. At 42d and 34th are ferry and steamboat landings, and a few irregular piers are scattered along, broken again by the 23d st. ferry-landing, near which many steamboats touch or depart, and a few of the ocean steamships have their docks. This region is known in police circles as Hell's Kitchen, and is frequented at night by gangs of rough men and boys who do not hesitate at any violence, even to murder, trusting to escape among the vacant lots, lumber yards, and shadowy piles of factories and scattered tenement houses. Strangers are therefore advised to keep to the main thoroughfares if compelled to go to that part of the city at night. i82 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. It is not until West Washington Market is reached that commerce really be- gins ; but from Bank (or W. nth) st. down, well-made piers succeed one another as ■closely as possible, and shipping and warehouses are continuous. Here lie almost ■all of the transatlantic and many of the coastwise steamships ; and the steamboats plying upon the Hudson River and to Boston through Long Island Sound. Ocean Steamers. — The scenes daily enacted at one or another pier when the .great ocean steamships are about to sail (Saturday is the special day) are well worth the attention of a visitor from the interior, to whom anything connected Avith the sea is interesting. The wharf and the ship are thronged with passengers and their friends, floral offerings from those who stay behind load the cabin tables, baggage is being stored with much noise, the roar of escaping steam adds to the uproar, carriages are constantly arriving and departing, peddlers shout their wares, and all is hurry-skurry until the gang-plank is drawn in and the steamer swings slowly out into the stream, amid cheers from the assembled crowd, and answering shouts from the passengers. It is well worth while to pay a visit to one of the " ocean racers." The greatest luxury in the fitting and furnishing is the rule on the steamers of the great lines. The table is supplied with every delicacy. There are superb smoking, card, and retiring rooms, electric bells with which to summon well-trained waiters, and the electric light is now in common use. The transatlantic steamers have flush decks with these accommodations below, but the coastwise steamers as a rule have cabins on deck, and are between a steamship and a river steamboat in appearance. From Canal st. down to Cortlandt, the water-front is largely devoted to domestic transportation and freight lines, and the warehouses and sheds are luonopolized by the produce and supply trade of the city. Flour, meal, butter, eggs, cheese, meats, poultry, fish, and fruit, are poured into this " lap of distributive commerce " by New Jersey and the counties lying along the Hudson River to be sold and re-sold in Washington Market (q. v.). The piers are all numbered, Pier One being a noble stone structure, covered with a great iron shed, close by the Battery, where the Coney Island and other excursion boats call to receive and deliver pas- sengers. The front street here is West st. It is filled for the most part with old and mean buildings, devoted to drinking saloons, eating houses, ship chandleries, and small clothing and provision stores, with many tenements in the upper part. The Belt Line of horse-cars runs along the water-front from the Battery to 59th st., and from them can be seen all that one would ordinarily desire of this waterside. Easi River and Long Island Sound. Above Hellgate. — The East River is, in reality, only a tidal strait cutting off Long Island and connecting New York Bay with Long Island Sound. As you approach it from the Sound — generally — early in the morning the points and bays of the converging shores bewilder one, and it is hard to say where the Sound ends and the River begins. All along the mainland, from New Rochelle, some 20 miles above Hellgate, islands succeed one another and hide the real shore. THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. iZ^, which, however, is low and uuinterestiiig. The first one (off New Rochelle harbor) is David's Island, where extensive hospitals were erected during the late, war. Subsequently the island was purchased by the United States and made a sub-depot for the reception of recruits. It is now a regular post under command of a colonel, and can be reached by boat from New Rochelle. Next comes Glen Island, which has been fitted up by J. M. Starin as a pleasure resort, intended especially for ladies and children and small picnic parties who go out in the morning and return in the evening by steamboat; every- sort of innocent amusement possible at such a place has been provided and the resort is a great favorite. Boats run back and forth every hour or two, in summer, between the island and the foot of Cortlandt st., N. R. Several other islands, not notable, hide the shore of Pelham and Chester ; while on the left Sand's Point, bearing a light-house, juts out from the bluff Long Island shore. Just beyond it is the deep indentation of Manhasset Bay in front of which lies Hart's Island, the potter's field for the city of New York, and the site of a lunatic asylum and .several other branch establishments of the city's charities ; more than 2000 unknown or pauper dead are buried there every year. City Island, between Hart's and the Westches- ter shore, is a pretty spot, inhabited by farmers, boat-builders and fishermen, notable as the place where American oyster culture first began. Great Neck now forms the Long Island shore in the shape of a headland on the left, falling away into the deep indentation of Little Neck Bay, famous for its clams. On the further side of this bay is the projection of Willefs Point, nearly meeting the long low peninsula from the mainland called Throgg's Neck. The reader must examine the map to understand thoroughly this itinerary; and must read Irving's "Knick- erbocker " to get the wealth of old traditions, and the histories of this region for the soberer facts that belong to it. Willet's Point is a station for the Engineer Corps of the U. S. Army, whose fortifications crown the bluff. "Torpedoes — Don't Anchor " is a signboard that may be read clear across the narrow strait which is the real entrance to the East River, and refers to the explosives that stud the bottom of the channel as a part of our coast defence. On the tip end of Throgg's Neck are the batteries and encampments of Fort Schnyler. This fort was begun in 1833, but not garrisoned until the beginning of the Civil War, when the great McDougal General Hospital was built near it. It is a scientifically casemated fortress of gneiss walls and earthworks, and commands all approaches by water from that side of New York. It can be reached by rail from the Grand Central Depot. IVliitestone and College Point are next passed on the Long Island side, the broad inlet of Flushing Bay opening beyond the latter, after which come Berien's Island and the upper end of Astoria. The low shore of the Port Morris district of the city appears meanwhile on the right, with a terminus of the New Haven R. R., where barges are loaded with. 1 84 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. freight and passenger cars to be towed around to the railway termini in Jersey City, and forwarded to their destination without unloading. .The low shore on the left is Riker's Island, just above Astoria. Randall's Island, which old Gov- ernor Van Twiller bought two centuries ago from the Indians, appears ne.xt on the right, behind the " Sunken Meadow." It is the site of some of the municipal charitable institutions described under the head of Charities — Public. The strait north of it, called Bronx Kills, admits to the mouth of Harlem River. South of it a passage through to the western channel is known as little Hellgate, and separates it from the beautiful fields and groves of IVard's Island, where sick and destitute emigrants are cared for by the State; and also where the city's huge lunatic asylum towers above the trees (see Charities). The channel is narrow here, but broadens out, as Ward's Island is left behind, into Hellgate. — This is by no means the turbulent and perilous place of the old time, when many a good ship, including at least one man-o'-war, left its bones upon the reef of sharp rocks which obstructed this sharp turn in the channel and made the tides seethe and rush hither and thither with perplexing and destructive vio- lence. The United States Government in 1870 decided to free the channel of these obstructions, and engineers under the direction of Gen. Newton were engaged for six years drilling the principal rocks and charging them with nitro-glycerine. Meanwhile enormous chambers had been excavated underneath Flood Rock, and the debris removed to the Long Island shore. The present writer once explored these artificial, submarine caverns, which were designed to make room for the roof (the bottom of the river) to fall into when the final explosion should come. They were like the chambers of the Mammoth Cave. The work was successful, but was found to be inadequate, and the channel was little improved, as to safety, even when lighted at night by electric lamp-towers, as was temporarily tried. In 1885 a much larger area was undermined and exploded as before, the explosion (which was effected by electricity) attracting an enormous crowd of spectators who lined the shores and filled the decks of excursion boats. As a spectacle the scene was disappointing, comparatively insignificant mounds and fountains of water bulging up only to sink back with little noise or display of force; but Flood Rock was annihilated, and only a trace remains of the frightful rocks and whirlpools, which an old tradition says were goblin-haunted. Blackwell's Island to the Battery. — Turning and twisting through Hellgate, where the east side of Harlem is in view, piled high with breweries and factories, the steamboat enters the narrow, quiet and lovely stretch of water between Black- zveWs Island on the right and Astoria on the left. The great buildings on Black- well's Island are all charitable or correctional institutions belonging to the city and elsewhere described. The first to appear is a lunatic asylum. Then follow the workhouse ; the almshouse for men and then an almshouse for women ; the reservoir ; the rude stone castle of the Penitentiary — " sent to the Island," in Police Court phrase, means coming here; next the immense halls of Charity THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 185 Hospital; and finally, among the trees at the lower extremity, the detached hospitals for contagious diseases. The hideous, commercial front of Long Island City, exhaling the odor of oil and disgusting chemicals from its refineries, rendering-bouses and sugar-making establishments, that turn the once fair current of Newtown Creek into a frightful drain, now appears upon the eastern side; while upon the western is the middle region of New York, its shore crowded with gasworks, factories and blocks of tenements, with here and there a great beer-garden overhanging the rocks, and a bath-house floating at their feet. Just below Hunter's Point (where the Long Island R. R has its terminus) is Grcoi Point, the northern extremity of Brooklyn (on the left). Directly opposite the forbidding gray front of Bellevuc Hospital (q. V.) looms above the trees, and the landing of the 26th st. ferry. Three blocks below is the East Twenty-third St. Ferry and landing, where many steamboats touch to accommodate passengers going up town. Here the U. S. School Ship " St. Mary's " is generally moored, and below here the piers are close together and crowded with shipping, and navigation is impeded by scores of ferryboats, tugs, steamboats, lighters, barges and all kinds of sailing vessels, for which the more manageable steamers must make room. Williamsburg, the "eastern district " of Brooklyn, occu|iies the shore on the left, and on the right New York is solid to the water's edge. The river contracts its width, and straight ahead lies the U. S. Navy Yard {see Brooklyn), — a half-circle about the large and once swam|n' bight anciently called the Wallabout. The head of your boat, hitherto pointed south- east, now turns slowly to southwest, and rounding Corlear's Hook enters the lower and busiest part of the East River, spanned by the great suspension bridge, now in plain view.' Both shores are filled with vessels of every description, backed by warehouses and lofty stores. The channel narrows, until it is only a quarter of a mile broad (1600 ft. between the bridge towers) ; and its waters are vexed at all hours of the day and late into the night by the many ferryboats plying between the opposite shores, large sailing vessels from foreign ports, coastwise steamers, dozens of noisy, puffing tugs, and countless small craft which trade to near-by ports. Its crowded condition has driven the large European steamers entirely away from it, and the long black hulls seen are those of " tramps " or else of coast- ing lines. It has an advantage over the Hudson in its freedom from floating ice ; but in very severe winters, at intervals of a generation or so, it freezes over, and during the campaign at the opening of the Revolution a large part of the Conti- nental army including the artillery crossed on the ice. After you have swept under the bridge and past Fulton Ferry the river perceptibly broadens, the Brooklyn shore, lined with massive warehouses, and overlooked by the fashion- able mansions on "the heights," trending away to the left and the New York shore losing its outline to the right in a forest of masts. Governor^ island blpc-H? the THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 187 view ahead, with Buttermilk Channel between it and Brooklyn; and avoiding the buoy that marks Diamond Reef, your boat enters the Harbor, and sweeps around the Battery to its North River pier. A Walk along the East River water-front, through South sf., is far more in- teresting than anything to be seen on the North River front of the city, and is pecu- liarly fascinating to a person from the interior who for the first time finds himself at a great seaport and whose imagination is stirred to its depths by the sights and sounds familiar to his mind from reading and pictures of foreign travel and seafaring adventures. Turning up the river from South Ferry, at the foot of Whitehall St., we come at once into the most anciently occupied portion of the island and the present domain of foreign commerce. The land we tread upon here is all artificial. The natural riverside is represented by Pearl st., whose western side was primitively the walk along the shore which the houses faced. and whose turn at later ran over tow- One by one, as the 1 pushed out and gun in 1687), and Franklin Square recalls the country road which ard the high road in the center of the island, growing town demanded them, piers were docks filled in, until finally Water, Front (be- at last South St., were added, and the shore extended out to water too deep for further progress. Just north of the ferries at the foot of Whitehall st. is Coentics' Slip. Among the earliest traders in New Amsterdam was Con- roet Teneyck, who had a corner- store at the head of what was then a little cove convenient for landing boats. He was a jolly fellow, familiarly known to everybody as " Coentje," so that it was natural when his cove became improved into a regular dock it should be pop- ularly called " Coentje's," which has been corrupted by careless tongues into the mod- ern " Quincy." It is now one of the places where fruit vessels abound in summer and cannal boats tie up through the winter months ; the little park at the head, which represents a space filled in, has been named Jeannette, after the ill-fated vessel which the New York Herald sent on an arctic exploration. Old Slip, next encountered, opens out of Hanover Square. It now contains a big new police station, behind THE BARGE OFFICE. i88 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. which, where an ancient market building stood until within a few years, is now an engine house, built of red and black bricks in close imitation of the old Dutch structure. The foot of Wall st. is just beyond, with its P'erry to Brooklyn Heights, which is used almost exclusively by the brokers who live over tiiere, and does not run its boats after nightfall. Just above it is the foot of Maiden Lane, where stood the Fly Market, famed in the early history of the town. "Fly" was a cor- ruption of the Dutch word vly, meaning "valley," and recalls the fact that here was a hollow, up which ran the natural, because easiest, road from the first East River ferry to the central highway along the ridge of the island. This quiet road was called the Maiden's Path, which has come down to us as Maiden Lane. In the early days, when all farms faced the water and all produce came to town by boat, a market stood at the foot of every street. The tall, old-fashioned, slanting-roofed buildings along here are filled with the offices of shipping masters, vessel owners and other seafaring occupations. Here are makers of nautical instruments, outfitters for seamen, sailors' boarding-houses (now well regulated and officially supervised), dark and cobwebby little saloons, with toy ships in the window, or specimens of shells, coral, scrimshaws worked during the tedium of long voyages in the forecastle, and weather-browned men " full of strange oaths " leaning over the counter. Far over the street, then- bowsprits reaching almost to the windows of the agents' offices on the other side, are great ships moored to the wharves, disgorging goods brought from some other side of the globe, taking on freight to go to buyers who know not whence it comes ; or waiting with unrufHed patience the profitable cargo that shall enable them to go forth. Among the big, tall-masted ships and the long black steamers are smaller vessels and the flag of every maritime nation is here unfurled to the breeze. In a stroll along East River you may find little clam and oyster boats from Connecticut, and fishing smacks from the Banks ; shapeless canal-boats from Buffalo and grimy steam barges from Philadel- phia and the coal regions ; trim schooners with potatoes from Nova Scotia, or tobacco from Norfolk, or odorous piles of oranges and bananas from Jamaica and the Windward Isles; brigs from Boston and Bombay, barks from the Mediter- ranean and the Brazils; full-rigged ships and swift clippers resting after voyages 'round the Horn or the Cape of Good Hope ; thick-skinned whalers from arctic seas and battered merchantmen from the Indian ocean; smudgy tramp steamers whose crews are of every swarthy race and uncouth tongue, and gay excursion boats bril- liant in white paint and flags and gilt adornment. Between them you get a glimpse of the water, fairly alive with moving boats of every kind. It is such, to be sure, as every great seaport may present, but the picture in New York excels in glow- ing light and breadth of canvas; and it is intensely novel and interesting to a landsman. THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 189 The broad space at the foot of Burling Slip passed, you are at Fulton Ferry and Fulton Market (see Markets), the liveliest point on the river-front. The great bridge looms up overhead, shading the Clyde Line and other steamers to southern ports. Further on is the ferry to Broadway, Brooklyn, and still further beyond a lot of queer junk-shops and places for the sale of sea-going commodities, is Catharine Ferry and Catharine Market. The latter is a relic of old times, in the midst of crazy buildings and a rude population not yet disturbed by the hand of progress. The log-wood, coffee and other tropical goods remind you that here is the center of the South American and West Indian commerce. Later comes the broad space of Market Slip, with a long row of disused trucks standing in a line along the middle of the pavement. The scene has now become uninteresting and squalid; and when the dry docks begin to appear the entertainment of the stroll is at an end. Horsecars run along the whole length of this lower river-front, and one may perhaps find a ride upon them satisfying to his curiosity. A Trip Down the Bay. New York Bay is roughly lozenge-shaped, stretching into the Hudson and East rivers at its northern end, and reaching its southern point out through the Nar- rows into the Lower Bay, which is a broad indentation from the Atlantic, pro- tected by Sandy Hook and the Bar, which form a north-and-south barrier stretching from New Jersey to Long Island. The mass of Staten Island, reaching to within a mile of Long Island at the Narrows, divides the Lower from the Upper bay, the latter of which is the Harbor, properly speaking. South of Staten Island is Raritan Bay ; and between it and the New Jersey mainland winds the narrow tide- channel called Staten Island Sound or Arthur Kills. A glance at the map will make this plain. The Upper Bay or Harbor, is eight miles long and five miles broad in its wid est part. It is completely protected from all gales, has several islands, and is one of the most beautiful harbors in the world. Its care is in the hands of the Harbor Commissioners, a State committee who execute the laws pertaining to it, control pilotage and make all regulations, except such as it belongs to the Federal government to enact or such as fall within the province of the City, as represented by the harbor police patrol-boats. Steamboats traverse it regularly all the year round, and in summer the harbor is fairly dotted with them. They run to South Brooklyn and Bay Ridge on the eastern side ; to Coney Island, Rockaway and Sandy Hook ; to Keyport and the two Amboys in Raritan Bay ; to Elizabeth and Newark, N. J. ; to Staten Island ; and in summer a small excursion boat makes a delightful trip, with many stops, completely around Staten Island. Tour of the Harbor, — Emerging from either river into the harbor, the Battery and Governor's Island (see Military Affairs) are quickly left behind, and the 1 90 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. massive commercial and office buildings at the lower end of the city group them- selves into a magnificent mountain of stately architecture, supporting banners of sun-gilded steam and smoke, and bristling with gables, turrets and flagstaffs. Far above all tower the campanile of the Produce Exchange and Trinity's sacred spire. At the right, as you gaze stern-ward, the breadth of East River, the delicately arched line of the graceful suspension bridge and the looming heights of Brooklyn extend the picture grandly in that direction ; while at the left are the broad level of the Hudson, and the tall elevators and green background of Jersey City, far enough away to take on an ideal beauty. The focal and foreground point of the splendid scene is the Battery—green with trees and lawns, marked by the quaint structure of Castle Garden, and fringed with white, where the gentle surf breaks against its curving sea-wall. The Battery (as before this the reader will have well ascertained) is the name applied to the triangular park at the southern extremity of the city. Originally Manhattan Island was rounded at the end and bordered with rocks, hardly covered at high tide. Upon the outermost of these a fortification, in the form of a water- battery, was built very early in the history of the city, and rebuilt, but not much used at the time of the Revolution. This accounts for the name. Among the defences projected at the close of the last century was a new fort here, de- signed by Col. Jonathan "Williams, then Chief of Engineers, U. vS. A., and founded upon the outermost rocks. It was completed in 1805, and was named Fort Clinton, after Gov. DeWitt Clinton. This is the structure since modified into Castle Gar- den. As originally built the fort was separated from the main land of Manhattan Island by a strip of water which was bridged by a draw, and which was filled in later. It was a circular building of solid stone masonry, with walls in some places thirty feet thick, and was provided with barbette and casemate guns. It was liberally armed and garrisoned by the government, and was considered by military men one of the best forts in the country. During the second war with England Fort Clinton was the center of a great deal of activity on the part of the citizens of this town. In 1814, the probability of a naval attack presented itself, and early in the spring the Common Council called a mass meeting of citizens to consider the situation. The citizens pledged themselves to rally for the defence of the city. Enlisting stations were at once opened, and companies and regiments were rapidly formed, and drilled opposite Fort Clinton, which was much strength- ened at the same time by gangs of citizens working with trowel and spade. The intense excitement of the times, centering at the Battery, spread in all directions about the port, and works were thrown up on Brooklyn Heights, Ellis Island, Bedloe's Island and Staten Island, largely by volunteer labor of citizens. Forts were built all around the Lower Bay and along the shores of the East River, McGowan's Pass was fortified to protect the city from approach byway of Harlem, and at Manhattan Pass a battery was trained on Bloomingdale. After the war Fort Clinton was kept in good military shape for a few years THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 191 only, because the defences in other approaches to the city had made it practically useless. It was deeded to the State in 1822. Then began its civil existence, which is more interesting than its military career. From 1824, when Lafayette landed there, on his visit, to this country, until 1853, when theatrical representa- tions of a rather cheap sort were produced there, the fort was a popular resort. The guns and munitions of war were gone, but in all other respects the place was un- changed. On festive occasions the sally-port in front of the drawbridge was lighted with colored lamps, and the draw decorated with bunting. Trees were planted in the park, and at night the whole would be brilliantly illuminated. Early in this period the Battery was in the most fashionable portion of the city. Canal street was out of town and Bleecker street a suburb. Chambers street was lined with the residences of the rich and Columbia College was at the foot of Park place. The up-town movement was felt somewhat in the quarter around Bowling Green and State street, but still that section was the centre of the conservative Knicker- bockers and social leaders of the day. An old print, which is one of the most highly prized treasures in the superintendent's office in Castle Garden, shows the Battery Park of this period. The park contained a few small trees, and flowers were planted along the walks. Men in fashionable clothes are pictured strolling along the water-front, and mothers innumerable walking with their daughters. At night, as books of the time relate, hundreds of people, representing the wealthiest and most respected families of the city, used to stroll about the park and into Cas- tle Garden. The reception tendered to Lafayette in 1824 was one of the great events of that period, and the magnificent ball in Castle Garden was its central feature. Receptions of the same kind were given there to President Andrew Jackson in 1832, to President Tyler in 1S43, and to Henry Clay, in 1S48; and for years the fort served the ]nirpose of an assembly-room for New Yorkers on great occasions, as the Metropolitan Opera House does now. In 1847 Castle Garden began its career as a theatre, and here many of the greatest actoVs and singers of the last generation were seen and heard. The fort was remodeled inside, and shut in with a high roof. It was fitted up as luxu- riously as any place of amusement in the country at that time. In August, 1847, the Havana Opera Company, the leading opera organization of the period, appeared there, and came again in 1850, many fine ]3lays having been given in the interim. Then followed the wonderful introduction of Jenny Lind to the United States, under the management of P. T. Barnum, when seats were sold by auction for hundreds of dollars, and the town went wild over the Swedish diva. In 1855 the dramatic manager's lease expired, and Castle Garden was leased to the State Board of Emigration to become an immigrant depot, and since then the name has become synonymous with its use. To this building all steerage passengers from Europe were brought in barges to make their landing; and every arrangement pos- 192 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. sible was made for their safety and welfare while endeavoring to meet friends, pre- paring for a residence in the city or waiting to be forwarded to western destina- ti9ns. Nearly ten millions of immigrants have passed through its halls and been placed upon the records. The United States has now taken the whole matter of immigration out of the hands of the State Board, has abandoned Castle Garden and is establishing a new depot on Ellis Island. What will be the future of the historic building is beyond conjecture at this writing. The Battery park contains 21 acres, is shaded by large trees and provided with a broad walk along the sea-wall and with a great number of seats. There is no spot in the me- tropolis more cool and beautiful in warm weather than this, but for 35 years it has been almost entirely given up to the immigrants, lodging-house runners and other hangers-on at Castle Garden, whose presence has kept away all but the tenement-house population of the neighborhood, for no longer, as of yore, does any one of wealth or taste live near it. At its eastern end stands the Revenue Barge Office, a branch of the Cus- tom House, surmounted by a tower 90 ft. high; and beyond that the group of ferries to Brooklyn known collectively as South Ferry. Anchored at the Battery is one of the free public baths which are provided at various suitable places along both river-banks. The Liberty Statue. From the Battery, and from every other point, near or remote, which commands the least view of the Harbor, the first object to catch the eye is the Statue of Liberty. — It stands upon Bedloe's Island, if miles southwest of the Batterv and on the western edge of the path of commerce. Its base is surrounded by the double, star-shaped walls and salients of old Fort Wood, which nearly hide the true pedestal (as seen from the city) but lend dignity to the noble figure. This colossal figure, the largest statue of modern times, is made of hammered plates of copper, is 151 feet in height and stands upon a pedestal 155 feet high. Auguste Bartholdi was a French sculptor, already known to Americans by his statue of Lafayette in Union sq., and by other works. He was impressed during a voyage to the United States by the eageirness with which the emigrants crowded the decks for a first glimpse of the new land to which they were coming with such hope and confidence, and the thought came to him, as Mr. Charles Barnard has well written it : " What a joy and encouragement it would be to these people if they should see something to welcome them, to remind them that this is a republic. THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 19J What if there stood, like a great guardian, at the entrance of the continent, a colos- sal statue — a grand figure of a woman holding aloft a torch, and symbolizing Lib- erty Eiilig/iteiiing the World! " When he went home he proposed that a popular subscription should be opened in France to present to the people of the United States such a statue. The idea took the fancy of the French. More than $200,- 000 was collected, and in 1S79 Mr. Bartholdi began work upon the statue, the sketch of which had been approved by critics and people alike. The process of building this colossal figure was most interesting and was graphically detailed by Mr. C. Barnard in St. Nicholas for July, 1884, quoted below. Structure of the Statue. — A monolith so enormous as this was designed to be, could never be transported or erected ; and if built up in courses it would crumble and become unsightly. Bartholdi remembered the statue erected centuries ago by " II Cerano " on the shore of Lake Maggiore, which was made of copper, in thin sheets, hammered into shape and laid upon a frame of stone, iron and wood ; and he decided that his statue must follow the same method. A beginning was made by executing a model in plaster just one-sixteenth the size of the intended statue. Next another model four times as large was constructed, and carefully studied and worked over to make it as perfect as possible. This quarter-size model being fin- ished, the task followed of making the full-sized model in plaster. But this had to be cast in sections, and these fitted together. To mold these full-sized copies of the quarter-sized model, which had been cut into suitable pieces, was a work of great ingenuity. Their weight required a support, and a framework of laths was first erected over which the plaster was roughly spread, and then was chiseled and smoothed by skillful workmen into an exact similitude of the smaller model. These sections in plaster completed, came the work of making wooden molds that should be exact copies both in size and modeling of the plaster. "It was a long, tedious and difficult piece of work; but there are few workmen who could do it better than these French carpeuters. Each piece was a model of a part of the statue, exactly fitting every projection, depression and curve of that portion of the figure or drapery. Into these wooden molds sheets of metal were laid, and pressed or beaten down till they fitted the irregular surfaces of the molds. All the repousse, or hammered work, was done from the back, or inside of the sheet [which varied from one to three yards square]. . . In this complicated manner, by making first a sketch, then a quarter-size model, then a full-sized model in sections, then hundreds of wooden copies, and lastly by beating into shape 300 sheets of copper, the enormous statue was finished. These 300 bent and hammered plates, weighing in all 88 tons, form the outside of the statue. They are very thin, and while thev fit each other perfectly, it is quite plain that if they were put together in their proper order they would never stand alone ; . . . there must be also a skeleton, a bony structure inside, to hold it together. This is of iron beams, firmly riveted together, and making a support to which the copper shell can be fastened." In erecting such a great statue, two things had to be considered that seem very trifling, and yet, if neglected, might destroy the statue in one day, or cause it to crumble slowly to pieces. One is the sun, the other is the sea breeze. Either of these could destroy the great copper figure, and something must be done to pre- 194 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. vent such a disaster. The heat of the sun would expand the metal and pull it out of shape, precisely as it does pull the Brooklyn Bridge out of shape every day. " The bridge is made in four parts, and when they expand with the heat they slide one past the other, and no harm is done. The river span rises and falls day and night, as heat and cold alternate. The great copper statue is like- wise in two parts, the frame-work of iron and the copper covering ; and while they are securely fastened together they can move one over the other. Each bolt will slip a trifle as the copper expands in the hot August sunshnie, and slide back again when the freezing winds blow and the vast figure shrinks together in the cold. Besides this, the copper surface is so thin and elastic that it will bend slightly wlien heated and still keep its general shape. " The salt air blowing in from the sea has thin fingers and a bitter, biting tongue. If it finds a crack where it can creep in between the copper surface and iron skele- ton, there will be trouble at once. These metals do not agree together, and where there is salt moisture in the air they seem to quarrel more bitterly than ever. It seems that every joining of points of copper and iron makes a tiny battery, and so faint shivers of electricity would run through all the statue, slowly corroding and eating it into dust." This curious, silent, and yet sure destruction is prevented by packing every joint throughout the statue, wherever copper approaches iron, with an insulating material which keeps the two metals from actually touching one another. Thus the statue itself was built. Its readiness was promised for the summer of 1883, and the people of America were asked to contribute money to erect a suit- able pedestal. They were slow to respond, not feeling the enthusiasm for the idea which had prompted the Frenchmen ; but at last The World newspaper aroused attention and by a systematic effort on its part (chiefly) the $250,000 necessary was raised, and the summer of 1886 was spent in erection of a pedestal after plans by Richard M. Hunt, under the supervision of Gen. C. P. Stone, as chief ejigineer. Bedloe's Island had been selected as the place for it to stand by Bartholdi him- self. There 2,000,000 people could plainly see the great bronze figure from their homes, and another million, in country homes, could see her lamp by night ; while men and women of every nation would pass in ships beneath her mighty arm. At the end of the Revolutionary war the island became the property of the State of New York, and at the time of the yellow fever alarm, in 1797, it was used as a quarantine for a short time. In 1800 it was given by the State to the United States, and in 1814 the Government began to build a fort on the island. In 1S41 the present star-shaped fort was built, at a cost of $213,000. It was thought at the time to be a fine affair, as it would mount over 70 guns and hold a garrison of 350 men. During the Rebellion the place was used as an hospital, and a number of hospital buildings were built on the island. With this exception, the fortifica- tion has never been practically utilized ; and the great guns now used on ships would soon demolish it. " It is a queer place indeed," as Mr. Charles Barnard remarks, "and reminds THE RIVERS AMD HARBOR. 195 one of the illustrations in an old picture-book. As you go up from the wharf on the east side, you cross a road that follows the top of the sea-wall, and come at once to the outside battery, already falling to ruin. Here are a few rusty old guns, and behind them rise the granite walls of the fort. There are on the west side an arched entrance, a moat and a place for a draw-bridge — like those of an old castle. In the southeast corner is a sally-port, a cavern-like entrance, dark and crooked and closed by massive iron doors, not unlike the doors of a big safe. Within the fort there was a parade-ground, or open space, a few houses for the men and offi- cers, immense tanks for" storing water, and great bomb-proof vaults where the men could hide if the shells flew too thick. " It was decided that the lofty pedestal for the statue should be built in the square within the fort. The parade-ground, however, appeared to be level sand. Clearly, it would not do to rest su great a weight on sand, and it would be necessary, there- fore, to make excavations" until a firm foundation was secured, far below. This seemed an easy task, but it proved to be an exceedingly difficult one. Under the parade-ground were the old water-tanks, the store-rooms, and bomb-proof vaults, and these were of solid brick and stone, very heavily built. " A pit or excavation, 90 ft. square, was made and was carried deep enough to go below the fort to the solid ground beneath. Then the great pit had to be filled up again with some material that would not yield or sag. For this purpose wet concrete was used— a mixture of cement, broken stones and water. As soon as it is put into place and beaten down it hardens and becomes like stone Layer after layer of concrete was put in, till the whole pit wTis filled up solidly." This mass of concrete is 53 ft. deep and 90 ft. square. It is like one solid block of stone-work, sunk deep in the ground, and rising to the level of the broad walk on top of the walls of the fort ; but it is only the foundation on which the pedestal rises to the height of 155 ft. Stairways in its interior lead to balconies on each side at the base of the statue and up into the statue itself. These cham- bers and the interior are lighted by electricity, and narrow, but well protected stairways lead up among the iron trusses and cross braces which knit the whole structure together, and are securely anchored to the pedestal. It is interesting to note the strength and ingenuity of this skeleton, and to observe how deftly the plates are joined, so as to appear seamless and continuous on the exterior. After a time the stairway becomes spiral, twisting upward around a central column, the return stairway coiling, reversely, within it, so that no one is met either going up or coming down, though the voices and steps of invisible persons are plainly heard. The main stairway leads to the hollow in the top of the head, where it is said that 40 persons may stand at once, and a row of windows in the half-circle of the coronet overlooks the whole harbor, New York City, the Brooklyn shore, far back among the Long Island hills and out past the Narrows to the ocean hori- zon. It is a magnificent picture, and on a clear bright day fully repays one for the exertion of the climb. Another stairway goes into the torch, where a chamber will hold several persons at once; but this is not always open to the public. No greater elevation can be reached anywhere near New York. This torch is lighted by a cluster of electric-lamps, the dynamos and machinery for feeding which are in 1^6 GIJWE TO NEW YORK CITY. a building on the southern shore o£ the island. It was a part of the original inten- tion to place an electric lamp on each one of the rays above the heading, giving the statue a crown of diamond-like points of light at night ; but this has not been done thus far. The figure itself, which faces the east, and has a face full of grave and noble beauty, stands posed on one foot, as if about to step forward and is majestic from every point of view. It is iioj ft. high to the top of the head, and 151 to the apex of the torch-flame, held aloft as a beacon of liberty guiding the stranger hastening to our shores from over the sea. In the left hand it clasps a tablet — the tables of the law. Access. — A steamboat leaves the wharf in the rear of the Barge Office, between South Ferry and the Battery, every even hour, between 8 a. m. and 4 p. m., reaching Bedloe's Island in 15 minutes and returning on the alternate half hours. The fare for the round trip is 25 cents. There is no charge for seeing or ascending the statue ; and an hour is sufficient time to spend upon the island, unless, on a Saturday afternoon, you choose to sit upon the parapet of the old fort and watch the procession of ocean steamers, outward bound, file past, threading their way through a crowd of other shipping and the gay fleet of excursion boats Scenery of the Harbor. — Bedloe's and Governor's Islands left astern, the whole of the Harbor is in view. The New Jersey shore on the right is indistinct, but would have little to show, as it is a low, squalid water-front, bordered by great shallows locally distinguished as York Bay. Straight ahead is Robin's Keef ligJit- houst\ warning against a ridge of rocks where a century ago seals used to bask and play, whence its Dutch name. The lighthouse is a low brown tower, hardly visible against the hills of the Staten Island shore. On the left is the monotonous expanse of South Brooklyn, curving about the anchorage-basin of Gowanus Bay, the northern shore of which projects into the point called Red Hook, where there are vast warehouses. A ferry from the foot of Whitehall st. goes to that part of Brooklyn, landing at 34th st. where cars may be taken for Fort Hamilton, or for Prospect Park and Greenwood cemetery, whose verdant hills make the background of the city. The skirts of Brooklyn thin out toward the south into the high, villa-dotted shore of Bay Ridge, at which the steamboats of the Culver Route to Coney Island land their passengers to take the railroad train. Below Bay Ridge the shore swells outward in green bluffs to form a headland at the Narrows crowned by the batteries of Fort Hamilton, bristling with cannon and accented by the Stars and Stripes, in front of which, at the water's edge, is old Fort Lafayette. Fort Hamilton is the name not only of a fort, but of a pretty little village which has grown up around it. The military reservation contains 96 acres and reaches around to the beach of Gravesend which reaches in behind the western extremity of Coney Island. The fort itself is a large casemated structure, capable of being put in a state of most effective defense and having shore batteries 50 feet THE RIVERS AND HARBOR^ t97 above tlie water. Its guns command the Narrows and the appi'Oach from the lower bay. It is garrisoned by several artillery companies, and is usually the regimental headquarters. Fort Lafayette is the conspicuous, circular " castle " standing in the water in front of Fort Hamilton, constructed of brick and resting upon an artificial island where its guns command the channel, point blank. It was begun in 1812, and was originally called Fort Diamond, but the name was changed to Fort Lafayette in 1822, when it was first garrisoned. It has long been obsolete as a defense against modern ships of war, and in 1868 the interior was largely destroyed by fire. Many interesting stories might be told in connection with it ; and readers will recall that during the late war it was the prison for political prisoners, where many well- known persons convicted or suspected of treason against the government were confined. Lately it has been used as a place of storage for ordnance and ammuni- tion ; and here Zalinsky built and experimented with his dynamite guns, and the new submarine torpedo boats were tried. This is one of the places selected for the improved harbor defenses, and it is probable that at some future day steel tur- rets will be erected upon it, carrying guns of enormous calibre. The Narrows are here only a mile wide, and form the gateway from the Lower Bay into the Harbor. The right-hand shore is the eastern end of Staten Island, with the contiguous villages of Tompkinsville, Stapleton and Clifton. The yacht- club houses, the queer craft of two or three wrecking companies and many coast- ers at anchor will attract notice. The point at The Narrows is high and is occu- pied by Fort Wadsworth — a name which covers the whole group of fortifica- tions on that side. Fort Wadsworth proper is a triple casemated structure of granite, which looks very formidable, but would stand long under modern projec- tiles. Nearer the crest of the hill is Fort Tompkins; 140 feet above the tide, and carrying many heavy guns ; while along the water's edge are the really powerful works of Battery Hudson. The military reservation includes 100 acres of high and rugged land, which could quickly be made almost impregnable, and in con junction with Fort Hamilton become an impassable obstacle to the invasion of the harbor by a hostile fleet. Meanwhile it is extremely picturesque. Having sailed through Narrows, the wide expanse of the Lower Bay spreads to the right, opening at the left to the breadth of the Adantic. The low sandy shore fades eastward into the dotted beach of Coney Island; and if the wind is brisk a white line of surf may be distinguished breaking on the Bar. Near at hand, on the right of the channel a group of .small islands and dismantled hulks will attract the attention of the passenger. These constitute the Quarantine Station. — Quarantine in the port of New York for the protection of the public health was established and is authorized by State laws ; the city office of the Commissioners is at 71 Broadway. " Its regulations are administered by three Commissioners of Quarantine, who are appointed for a term of three years by the Governor of the State by and iqS . GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. with the advice of the Senate ; and a Health Officer who is appointed for a term of two years by and with the consent of the Senate. . . . The Health Officer is required to reside at the boarding-station for vessels ; to board every vessel subject to quarantine or visitation by him as soon as practicable after her arrival (but between the hours of sunrise and sunset) ; to inquire as to the health of all per- sons on board, and the condition of the vessel and cargo by inspection and by examination of the bill of health, manifest, log-book, and otherwise; to send all sick to the hosjiital, and to determine what passengers and vessels are to be detained in quarantine. . . The establishment consists of -the hospital-ship ' Illinois,' which is used as a residence for the deputy health officer and a board- ing-station for all vessels arriving from infected ports, and is anchored from the first day of May to the first day of November in the lower bay, 3 miles below Swinburne Island and in a duect line with Sandy Hook; Swinburne Island, which is situated in the lower bay, 8 miles below the city of New York, upon which is located the hospital for contagious diseases; Hoffman Island, situated I mile north of Swinburne Island, which is used for the detention and purifica- tion of well persons arriving in infected vessels; the quarantine burying-ground, situated at Seguin's, Staten Island, in which are deposited the remains of all persons dying of infectious diseases; the upper boarding-station at Clifton, S. I., at which are the health officer and the deputy health officer's residences, and from which all vessels are boarded arriving from non-infected ports ; and the steamer " S. C. Preston," bv means of which daily communication is kept up between all points of the quarantine establishment, su]5plies transported, the remains of deceased patients towed to the hosjMtal burying-ground, and the mails and passengers released from vessels detained in quarantine brought to the city. Swinburne Island is connected with the health officer's residence at Clifton, Staten Island, and the health officer's residence with the city of New York, mak- ing the communication complete between the hospital, Health Officer, and Com- missioners of Quarantine. From Quarantine are just visible, 8 or 10 miles southwest, the trio of light- houses and the low fort on Sandy Hook, which is a long spit reaching northward in continuation of the New Jersey coast-line. Some distance outside of it, marking the position of some dangerous shoals lies the Scotland LigJttship, — a hulk securely anchored, whose short masts support two great red globes by day and lanterns by night as a warn- ing to mariners. Around the Lightship and return is the " outside " or " ocean " course of the yacht-clubs, where the great races for the America cup and other prizes are sailed. The main ship channel runs close by both the Lightship and the extremity of Sandy Hook; but there is also a second, shallower channel through the Bar, known as The Wash, used by vessels of inferior tonnage or draught. The triangular enclosure of water inside Sandy Hook affords a secure harbor (the "horseshoe") where outward bound vessels often anchor and wait for favor- able weather to enable them to put to sea. Into this bight comes the estuary of the Shrewsbury and Navesink rivers, long ago noted for their oysters. The sand here is very unstable, and not only the channel, but the very navigability, of this inlet and tidal river changes with every gale, while now and then the currents break through and convert Sandy Hook itself into an island, which THE RIVERS AND HARBOR. 199 gradually rejoins the mainland. Just at the heel of Sandy Hook, and between Navesink River and the Bay, rise the lofty Navesiiik Highlands, <&\.\x\\\ow\\i&(S. by twin lighthouses, which are of great interest in many ways. From this lofty outlook an agent thoroughly acquainted witli the insignia of all craft coming to New York and aided by a powerful telescope, watchec the horizon and notifies to the agent of the Associated Press at Sandy Hook the approach of any steamer or vessel worth mention. This is immediately telegraphed to New York. Another " sliip-news " agent resides at Fire Island and a third at quaran- tine ; while other agents are deputed to board incoming steamers and gather such exchanges, dispatches, correspondence, etc., as they bring for the local news- papers, or for Customs officers. This explains the unexpected reception which escaped criminals and would-be smugglers sometimes get, even when the fact of their being passengers on a particular ship has not been cabled in advance. Persons expecting friends from abroad may, by paying a dollar and leaving their addresses at any telegraph ottice, receive notice of the arrival at Quarantine of the vessel by which the absent ones are coming, giving them ample time to reach the wharf from any part of the city as soon as the vessel itself. This will also be done by the Maritime Exchange, at the corner of Beaver and New sts. The New Jersey Central R. R. has a station on Sandy Hook, about two miles from its end, whence its trains run to the villages and beaches (see Seaside Resorts) along the coast of New Jersey ; and this is connected with New York by a regular service of boats sailing from Pier 8, N. R. This is the scenery of the ocean portal, visible to the outward-bound voyager, or to the excursionist going to Coney Island, Rockaway, Sandy Hook or Long Branch. A few words remain to be said in regard to the south shore of Staten Island and Raritan Bay, seen from the steamboats that go to Keyport, Perth Amboy, Tottenville or around into Newark Bay. Passing down through The Narrows the steamer turns southward along the straight south shore of Staten Island which is pretty, but has few features of special interest. Great Kill is an indentation early passed, and later comes Prince's Bay, the headquarters of the oyster cultivators of the region, whose natural beds, where the young oysters, or " seed," are gathered, and ])lanted beds, to which they are transferred, cover many square miles of shaUows in this vicinity. All along the adjacent Jersey shore, and particularly off Keyport, this industry rules ; and in the spring and early summer the whole surface of this part of the bay will be dotted with oyster sloops, and hundreds of small boats will be seen, each with two or three men busily tonging. Ernest IngersoH's " Oyster Industries of the United States," which was a special report to the Census of 18S0, contains full details, statistics and illustrations of this business, and of the oyster culture generally in the neighborhood of New York. He found that at that date the oyster planters of New York Hay alone numbered 500, cultivating 2.500 acres of sea-bottom, having 400 sailing vessels of all sizes, and selling $375,000 worth of oysters annually, one-third of which had been brought young from Chesapeake Bay, replanted and allowed to gain their growth in these genial waters. This narrowing easterly portion of the bay is called Raritan Bay, and receives the Raritan River and canal, which communicates with the Delaware river at 2O0 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Trenton, N. J. The port of Toltcnville is the southernmost village of Staten Island, — a queer old town of seafaring people. Straight across from it, at the mouth of Raritan River, is Perth Amboy, one of the very earliest places settled in New Jersey. The colony was led by Sir George Carteret, and came from Perth, in Scotland. These people found that the Indian name of the locality was Amboy, and so called their settlement Perth Amboy.. It has seen, and preserves the relics of, much interesting history, and is one of the quietest, most rural and charming towns in the vicinity of the city. Across the river is South Aiiiboy, which was the terminus of the old Camden and Amboy R. R., the predecessor of the Pennsylvania and all other railway routes between Philadelphia and New York. The New Jersey Central R. R. to Long Branch, now skirts the shore. Between Staten Island and the mamland of New Jersey runs the river-like c\i2l\\- n^l oi Staten Island Sound or the Arthur ("Achter") Kill; and it is a delightful sail to return along its still current between green and shady banks, with here and there a small village or some other pleasant object to interest the eye. As the northeastern part is reached the island shore becomes low and the broad shallow expanse and marshy shores of Neivark Bay open ahead, with the water-front of the busy city of Elizabeth at its mouth (on the left). Here crosses the new steel drawbridge of the Baltimore and Ohio R. R., carrying trains to the new terminus at the northern end of Staten Island; and at the Staten Island end of the bridge are seen the enclosures and few houses of Erastiim;'-vi\\tx& Kiralfy's spectacular exhibitions, Buffalo Bill's " Wild West," and other shows of that kind are wont to be seen in summer. Newark Bay receives the Passaic and Hacken- sack rivers, and is navigable. Its eastern shore is Bergen Point, the terminus of the peninsula stretching south from Jersey City, and a delightful place for suburban residence. Between Bergen Point and Staten Island winds the Kill van Knll, extending through to the harbor, and completing the insulation of Staten Island. On the right, noble old houses with elegant grounds, and a succession of small village-center?line the shore; but on the Jersey shore, which reaches out in the low point called Constable's Hook, there is seen an immense array of oil tanks, warehouses and shipping wharves, — the property of the Standard Oil Company and terminus of their pipe lines — immediately opposite which are the park-like grounds of Sailor's Snng Harbor. From here a beautiful picture of New York Harbor is presented, and a moment later the circumnavigation of Slaten Island has been completed. XI. A RAMBLE AT NIGHT. ''^'^'^-.^f ROBABLY no aspect of this great city is more interesting f,;,"Al? to the stranger than that which presents itself after the gas is lighted. How exciting is that hurrying rush of a winter's evening, when the snow is flying, and up and down Broadway, and across it from every side-street, press hastening crowds just released from ofiice, store and workshop, and eager to get home. For an hour afterward the streets are comparatively deserted. New York is never so dull as from 6.30 to 7.30 in the evening. Then it revives again. By half-past seven most citizens have dined and are coming out on errands of business or pleasure, or, in some parts of the town, simply to crowd the street with strollers. The theatre doors are open in a gush of light, but their curtains will not rise until 8:15 or 8:30. The town below 14th st. is black and quiet; but from Union Square upward, Broadway is fairly ablaze with electricity and gas, massed in parterres of light at the squares and stretching away into a sparkling perspective. All the shop windows are brilliant with jewels, flowers, cut glass, paintings, potteries and gay merchandise of every sort, and knots of people gaze into them and then give place to others while they pass to the next. Fourteenth st. is as light as day, from Macy's great red star at Sixth av. to the hundreds of lamps in front of the concert halls near Third av. ; and Third av. itself is a line five miles long of many-colored lights, and a throng of lively people. It is a memorable vision to look from some lofty point, like the roof of the Equitable Building, or even from the Brooklyn bridge, at the city by night, its thousands of street lamps glistening, its tall buildings illumi- nated from attic to basement, its squares indicated by halos reflected upon the clouds, its spires holding high over all, here and there, an illuminated cross, the harbor embroidered with the moving and many colored lanterns of the ferryboats and shipping, and the river spanned by the noble arch of the bridge, set with dia- 202 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. nionds of electricity, with here an emerald of safety in the center of the diadem, and there two rubies of warning where the towers lift to the sky their dim and prodigious bulk. A Nocturnal Ramble. Slumming. — One of the diversions in London is to make up a party, secure the services of an experienced police ofhcer — usually a detective — and visit the region of poverty and crime at the East End. That miserable precinct is called the "slums," and hence the verb. But New York has little to show, as yet, which resembles the narrow and intricate streets, the blind alleys, hidden courtyards and murder-inviting places along the lower Thames and in Whitechapel. " Slum- ming," therefore, in the London sense of the word, cannot be satisfactorily carried out here, though it is certainly possible to hire a guide at some one of the many private detective agencies, and to pay him to show you the darker parts of the town at midnight. But the chances are, unless you are hunting for an oppoVtunity to join in with some deviltry which must hide away from the light and the law, that he will reveal to you little, if anything, more than you can see for yourself, any night. As for danger — pooh ! Leave at home your silk hat, diamond studs and kid gloves, and your watch, too, if it is a valuable one ; don't exhibit a roll of bills when you pay for your occasional glass of beer or cigar ; don't be too inquisi- tive ; and don't allow yourself to be enticed into any back yards, or dark doorways, nor up or down any stairways, by man or woman. Above all, keep quite sober — so clear-headed that you not only can take care of yourself, but that you could closely observe and subsequently identify any person who tried to do you harm. That ability is what criminals fear, more than anything else ; and a sober man, of ordinary appearance and tact, can go anywhere on the streets of New York (save perhaps certain remote parts of the water-front which nobody has a call to visit) at any hour of the night, without worrying himself a particle as to his safety. Some suggestions as to a good route for a nocturnal ramble, and the sort of thing a person may expect to see, may be useful. If you are in search of evil, in order to take part in it, — don't look here for guidance. This book merely ))ro- poses to give some hints as how the dark, crowded, hard-working, and sometimes criminal portions of the city look at night. Supposing that you start from an uptown hotel, say at 9 o'clock, a good ]jlan would be to take the Sixth Av. El. Ry. to Bleecker st. station. This is a shady corner, in more senses than one. The. Jitnction of Bleecker and South Fifth av. is quite roofed over by the elevated station and tracks, and the latter street is one of the most poorly lighted in town ; moreover the locality is largely inhabited by ne- groes, mainly of a very low class, becoming still more low and vicious as you go down Sullivan and Thompson sts., below Bleecker ; and a large proportion of the A RAMBLE A T NIGHT. 203 white residents, American, Italian, French and Irish, are fond of shady places and shady ways. An innocent looking basement beer saloon, a few doors west ol South Fifth av. is not, probably the most dangerous, but certainly the vilest place in New York ; and still nearer the corner are two places, known as " The Fashion," and " The Rathole," which certainly do not fall far behind it. Wander about these gloomy blocks a bit, if you like, but keep your eyes open— not so wide, how- ever, as would be advisable four or five hours later. East of South Fifth av. ]!leecker st. is brighter, and there are several queer little French restaurants, one of which. May's, at the corner of Wooster, is a great favorite with artists and liter- ary men, not to speak of the many French families who regularly patronize it. Le Grand Vatel, in the same block, is also good. Fifty years ago this street was the height of fashion, and the doorplates of the fine old-houses, many of which yet remain in melancholy dirt and ruin, bore names now counted high up on Fifth or Madison avenues. But great business houses are rising year by year on their sites, and even the devil is being ousted from all this evil part of town by commerce and manufactures. Wooster and Greene sts., ne.xt east of South Fifth av. have only a few remnants of the long lines of houses of prostitution which twenty years ago made them infamous ; but both are dark and miserable still. Two blocks further on we come to Broadway, quiet and gloomy here, since almost every store is closed at six. We cross it and walk one block east to the head of Mulberry St., just beyond which are the rooms of two street missions, one of which, the Florence Mission, is widely known. We find a long, plainly furnished room with a carpeted platform across the fur- ther end. There is an organ and an abundance of seats. Early in the even- ing some ladies and gentlemen interested in the meeting take their seats upon the jDlatform, a young preacher or divinity student assuming the place of leader, behind a reading-desk. The room fills \\\i with boys and men mainly, who are orderly, and presently a number of girls and women, evidently belonging in the neighborhood, but neatly, if frugally attired, come in together through a side-door. Then the singing begins — anybody calling .out what he would like to have sung next. Perhaps a dozen songs are roared out, with more earnestness than melody, but that doesn't seem to matter ; and a little service, and, sometimes, a sort of experience meeting follow. Judging by your educated taste you say it is all very rude and coarse and tiresome ; but undoubtedly vast good is done through these missions, and to some extent by these nightly meetings, and you steal out after a bit, feeling that you would help it along if you could. Turning down Mulberry we pass the solemn, white front of Police Headquarters, whose two green lanterns, erect and firm before the door, are no more watchful than the power within, with its hand on the pulse of the metropolis, unceasingly vigilant, unfailingly ready, minute by minute, day after day, year in and year out. The odd, elevated figure confronting us as we approach the next corner gradu- ally shapes itself out of the shadows as the image of the genial Puck, whose bright 204 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. weekly is printed in that great building. On this northeast corner of Mulberry and Houston ran for many years the notorious pugilistic resort and concert-hall of Harry Hill ; but the doughty proprietor closed his doors some years ago. Turning east through Houston st, we walk two blocks to the Bowery (of which more pres- ently), and jumping upon a car ride down half a mile to Worth St., which opens as a broad thoroughfare westward from the lower side of Chatham sq. We walk rapidly two or three hundred yards along it, until we suddenly find ourselves in an open, triangular space, where several narrow and irregular streets converge. This is the Five Points. — Thirty years ago Worth st. was called Anthony and did not extend through from Chatham sq. to Broadway, as it now does, but stoj^ped mid- way at "the points," where its intersection with Park and Cross (now Baxter) sts. formed five triangles. The ground was low, and had from the first been avoided by those who could choose a moie desirable site for their buildings. On each of these points, years ago, stood grogshops of the lowest character, and the whole neighborhood was filled with infamous houses and tumble-down tenements, inhabited by the poorest and most abandoned persons, — the human drainage of the city. It would be unpleasant to insist upon all the disagreeable features. What remains even yet is indicative of a very bad past, though the light has been let in by the opening of Worth St., the paving of the little " square," the demoli- tion of many of the old rookeries, and the closing of such alleys as " Cow Bay " and "Donovan's lane." Even the old "Bloody Sixth" police-station in Franklin st. was abandoned a dozen years ago. Nevertheless you may listen to the noise of fighting any night now in that region, especially in the Italian quarter just north of it ; and the counters of the dark and dreadful saloons are chipped with knife-thrusts and dented with pistol-bullets. But no longer, as of yore, are the Points the scene of a continual street-brawl ; nor, as in the days when " Cow-legged .Sam," " Irish Mike," " Family Pat," " Yellow P)ill," and their associates flourished and worried the brains of Chief Matsell or Superintendent Walling, will you hear a dozen cries of murder at once. At the Franklin st. station, sixty prisoners were frequently brought during one night. Police officers, locally known as " cops," were busy from the time they went out until they were relieved. Much as the two missions (see Benevolent Societies) erected in the locality about 1S50 did towards its regener- ation, they would have had little effect had it not been for the support of the swift and tireless clubs. These preached a gospel Five Points could not fail to comprehend. The stories of peril and heroism which could be related of the policemen whose posts were in the dark purlieus, would make not only a thrilling romance, but contain bright examples of courage and nobility- There is no danger, whatever, at present in a visit to the P'ive Points by daylight ; and little at night, or even to the crowded quarters beyond it, if a personlieeps his eyes open and does not allow himself to be enticed off the street. Where next? Baxter st. which leads straight through from the Five Points to Chatham st. is dark and quiet. The ol' clo' shops are shut, and all the Cohens have gone to bed In the day time this narrow, short and dirty thoroughfare will repay the curiosity of any sight seer who has the temerity to run the gauntlet of " pullers in." The street, more commonly spoken of as " the Bay," has always A RAMBLE A T NIGHn 205 been known for its cheap clothing business, and shop after shop on both sides is given up to our Hebraic brethren, who appropriate the greater part of the side- walk for the display of their various " bargains." Swarthy men and sometimes girls entreat you to enter and buy, not only, but seize your arm and will drag you in, if they can, despite the protests and revilings of the salesmen next door. The complacency with which you are assured that black is white and that other contra- dictory things are similar, in order to effect a sale, is amusing — objectively. Failures are almost unheard of but one occurred the other day that shook the Bay to its foundations " The original Harris Cohen," one of the big- gest manipulators of the overcoat market, was compelled to make an assignment. His establishment was one of the largest in the street. His clerks wore bigger checks and diamonds than the employes of any rival establishment, while his " pullers in " were celebrated for the persuasiveness of their arguments both lingual and muscular. " Cohen " appeared to be the " open sesame " to success. Rivals accordingly began to spring up, and before long there was hardly a shojj in the street that did not boast a Cohen for a proprietor. Not content with a]j|:)ro- priating his trade mark, each dealer dubbed himself with the only Cohen's Chris- tian name, until now, if you go to any store in the street, no matter what sign there is hanging in front of your very nose, the capj^er will assure you that the place is the original Harris Cohen's, and that no one else has ever kept it. There used to be a theatre, under the sidewalk, where Ba.xter st. joins " the Points," called the Grand Duke's Own Opera House. It was managed by news- boys, and the actors and dancers were all little street waifs. There was no harm in them, and it cost only five cents and a certain nimble recklessness in getting down the rickety stairs that led through a kind of hatchway to the cellar, to wit- ness the performance ; but that disappeared long ago. It is too far to go to see the Italian rag-pickers in Crosby st., but we can find a great colony of the same people in Little Italy, just above here ; so let us go to The Mulberry Bend. — Mulberry st, here at its southern end, is narrow, dark and dirty. Six-story tenements, whose unwashed windows scarcely disclose any evidence of the lamp-light within, rise in a solid wall on either hand. Their first floors are occupied by shops of various kinds, — all dark now, but blurs of red and yellow light at each corner, and once or twice in the middle, of every block, show that the saloons are still open. Along the curbstone, every two or three doors, are groups of trucks, whose drivers and horses are stabled somewhere in the midst of these tenements. It is not much after ten o'clock, and plenty of people are in the street, unless it be a cold night ; if it be one of the hot summer even- ings, everybody is out, half of them asleep on the trucks, or in door steps, or on the cellar doors, where the mothers have brought pillows, or maybe a mattress, for their children to lie upon ; and there they will sleep all night rather than stifle inside those awful hives of neglected humanity. Where can all this crowd stow itself ? My dear sir, there are tenements here within tenements. These dark little arches and entrances — do not be enticed into exploring them — lead to tall 2o6 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. houses in the center of the block where large families crowd into one or two small rooms. But to-night it is cooler, and we see no children and few women. Here is a little street coming in from the right, and the smoky torches of a fruit-seller gleam upon the brass buttons of two policemen who are watching what seems to be material for a very pretty row, in a group of small, lithe, dark men excitedly quarreling and gesticulating. Not a word of English is heard — only a rough, gutteral Italian. Perhaps they will take it out in words — perhaps a knife may flash out, a cry be heard, and the cat-like murderer get away even though policemen are so close at hand, for his countrymen will help him to escape, in order that they may institute the vendetta and become their own avengers. We move on. The way is more crowded, and as we jostle through it is hard to believe this is not Naples. The street curves slightly to the left. More dark-skinned men and bonnetless women — who ever saw one of these sigiiornias wear a hat .-" — throng the sidewalks and squat in the doorways of the little shops, whose thresholds are below the sidewalk, or lounge upon the trucks or pass, in and out of a concert hall where dancing is going on. Let us step into this groggery kept by a man whose name is honored in Rome, if his sign may be believed, and get a glass of beer. It is a dark, smoky little bar-room, filled with Italians. No doubt they look ferocious, if your fancy insists upon it, but to me there seems only a sort of brutish curiosity in their glances. The beer comes in glasses holding nearly a quart, and only three cents is asked ; but if it was not altogether obtained by emptying the dregs of the beer-kegs in other saloons, the stock was certainly eked out in that way. We take just a sip for politeness sake and go out again. This is the Mulberry Bend — in some respects the most unman- ageable crime-nursery in the city. It is quiet enough, as a rule, however, and we turn back and saunter through the stinking shadows of Bayard st. (the very worst part of a very bad street named after the pattern of gentility) without any sensa- tions of alarm, since no vendetta has been declared against us in " Little Italy." "The Italian population of New York," says Townsend, " numbers about 15,000 [nearer 25,000 now] largely made up of laborers and rag-pickers, who are industrious, economical, and dirty. Most of them will suffer many privations for the sake of saving a little money, and, though they have a miserable appearance, there are no beggars among them. Their principal headquarters are the Five Points, Baxter and Crosbv sts. on the east side, and Wooster, Sullivan, and Spring sts. on the west side. They rarely speak the English language, and mingle little with people of other nationalities. They are commonly sober, but when they do become intoxicated it is nearlv certain that they will quarrel, and not rarely with fatal results. It is a mistake 'to suppose that the majority of organ-grinders and strolling players which crowd our streets are Italians. These nuisances are mostly Germans. Another calling to which our Italians answer in great numbers is that of waiters in restaurants, a business for which their natural politeness renders them peculiarly fit. Ascending their social ladder, we find a host of Italian musi- cians, music and language teachers, some of whom stand very high in their pro- A RAMBLE A T NIGHT. 207 fession, and others have devoted themselves to literary pursuits, or to the higher branches of trade." China.town and the Chinese. — At the top of the slope of Baxter st. is Mott -St., and here in daylight an extremely picturesque and foreign scene is presented as you look back at the rickety tenements and the chaffering crowd of excitable hucksters. Mott st., from Bayard to Chatham sq., is the heart of Chinatown. Here, or in the immediate neighborhood, the majority of the 7000 Chinese in New York has its home, though its work may be done to a large extent somewhere else. Here are the joss houses, the civil officers of the colony, the merchants, the tailors and shoemakers, the lodging-houses and restaurants, the gambling rooms and opium-smoking places. The latest estimate, by the Chinese Consulate (26 W. 9th st.) places the num- ber of Chinese in New York and Brooklyn at about 7000. All come from a little territory in the province of Kwantung, in part known as the Sam Yup, or Four Towns, and the Sz' Yup or Three Towns. The Sz' Yup people are in the majority, and are not so well-educated as the former, and seem more susceptible to foreign influences, and more easily convertible to Christianity. The influence of home customs, traditions and clans is strongly felt in this country, where the race iso- lates itself and clings closely together. Those from the same village naturally seek one another's society; and as the dwellers in each village not only belong to the same clan, but to a great extent to the same family, certain names occur in great numbers here. The speech of each clan differs in some degree from that of all the others, while all resemble the dialect of Canton Cit}'. In many cases long- standing feuds between the separate clans are kept up here, but the war is rarely more than one of hard words. The assaults by Chinese reported in the news- papers are nearly always by professional criminals who are as much detested by the mass of their countrymen as white rascals are by us. These people are as in- different to our laws as safety jiermits, but have a code of their own to which they pay more attention. Each community is a little democracy, governed, so far as any regulations seem necessary, by a kind of town meeting, or assembly of the merchants and influential men, who resolve upon certain local regulations. In this city the merchants support a guild hall, which is in charge of a ])erson of ap- proved character, who is elected to the office annually, and is called in the news- papers " mavor of Chinatown." He really has no executive ])owers, but acts as adviser and arbitrator of quarrels in the colony. Very few of the Chinamen in New York are married to Chinese women, but many have found wives or consorts among the Irish and Italian women of that quarter of the city, and these unions seem happily maintained in most cases, but tend to separate the husbands from their countrymen, who, in general, disapprove of intermarriage with " barbarians," and decline to offer them or their children any of the ceremonies of courtesy which belong to marriage, the birth and naming of children, and to other occasions in the domestic life of this superstitious people. Some thirty " comjjanies " of merchants are enumerated in New York, and many of them do a large business, not only at home, but in supplying Chinese shops in out- lying towns. Their stock is mainly imported direct, and includes a wide range of goods. These stores are always oj^en, of course, to visitors, and in each of them a clerk or proprietor speaking English will be found. The largest wholesale onef< 2oS GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. are in Mott st. and Chatham sq. ; but the most showy retail shops are in Chatham sq. and at the lower end of the Bowery. A few physicians — but none who would be considered of much account at home — and otlier men of moderate attainments are here ; but the main body of the people are villagers from the rural districts north and west of Canton, who have had no more than what we should call a com- mon school education. Ail can read, the stock of native books among them is large, and some of them can write a pretty long list of characters. The six or seven hundred laundries in town employ most of the Chinamen, who are very in- dustrious and frugal. This trade is more a matter of accident than of any pre- dilection on their part, and due to the fact that the first comers were imported from California, and put at work in a great laundry at Belleville, N. J. After having learned the trade, and saved a little capital, some were shrewd enough to start in it on their own account, and their success induced others to follow. They have invaded few other lines of toil, and hence have never aroused the prejudice and opposition of the white laborers of the city, as has resulted from their excessive numbers and general competition on the Pacific coast. Few Chinamen here have changed their costume or altered their habits to conform to American usage, ex- cept in the single item of head covering. Their habits of personal cleanliness are maintained, their streets are by all odds the cleanest in that part of the city, the buildings in which they live are well swept and kept in good repair, and their quarters, though smelling of incense smoke, and otherwise strangely malodorous to Caucasian nostrils, and despite their crowded condition, far surpass in whole- some cleanliness the tenements of the foreigners around them. The colony is very healthy, and gives the police little trouble, apart from opium orgies. The hour of this walk is too late, of course, to enable us to enter the stores, whose upright signs, with big carved characters and little knots and tassels of cloth, glimmer picturesquely in the gaslight. What we can see through the darkened windows induces a resolve to come here again by daylight. The front of a build- ing on the eastern side of the way attracts attention. It is covered with balconies hung with gaudy signs and ornaments, and illuminated by large octagonal lanterns of colored glass. This is the new temple or joss house at No. 6, which is worth a visit. A Joss House. — We enter the hall and climb two pairs of stairs to the front room, where the noise made by our entrance brings an aged and shriveled attendant, who bows his welcome, shaking his own hands the while, instead of shaking ours. (Jne side of the room is filled with a great shrine of magnificently carved ebony columns and arches, within which carved figures covered with gold leaf are placed, the whole resembling somewhat the stage-setting of a tiny theatre. The extreme back of this shrine is occupied by a half-length painting representing, they tell vou, Gwan Owing Shing Te, the onlv original god of the Chinese empire. On his left is the woman-like figure of his grand secretary, Lee Poo, and on his right, in fiercest battle array, is Tu Chong, the grand body-guard. A row of candles, set like theatre footlights, illuminates the iiainting, and brings out all its barbaric splendor. About three feet in front of the shrine, is a massive carved table upon which are arranged the brass jars, joss sticks, sandal-wood urns, and all the offerings and sacrifices j^eculiar to this worship. It is before this table, after lighting his jncens? sticks and his sacred paper, th^t the Mongo]ian worshiper makc-^ A RAMBLE A T NIGHT. 209 his devotional salaams, pours his tiny libation of rice wine, and repeats the ritual of prayers enjoined upon him. The two other temples (at Nos. 16 and 18) are furnished in the same style. The decorations are all in red and gold, and the furniture is black ebony heavily made, elaborately carved with vine work, and slightly polished. The walls are hung with banners of red and gold, bearing moral mottoes or praises of the deity represented ; or sometmies these are expensively carved on ebony planks, carved and gilded. The temple at No. 18 is supported by the Lee family as a chapel for the clan, and that at No. 6 is connected with a benevolent society which is also a Masonic body. The religion of this people, as manifested here, is, however, ac- companied by little sacredness. The " worship " is purely formal, carelessly gone through with, and prompted by a mingling of fear of harm and the desire for good luck. The theory, so far as it can be learned, is a sujjerstitious and nonsensical conception, partly derived from the philosophies of Buddha and Confucius, but recognizable by neither. Several Chinese restaurants are carried on in this quarter, and on Saturday nights and Sundays, when thousands of Chinamen flock in here to visit friends and make purchases, they are crowded. '1 he largest one is kept by Kee Keng Low on the third floor (front) of iS Mott st. 1 he room has a number of small and tall tables, surrounded by high-seated chairs, but the furnishing in general is bare and disappointmg. One can get here a meal, cooked and served in an exclu- sively Chinese way, as long and elaborate as he likes ; but the prices are rather high, the surroundings are not inviting, and visitors ordinarily content themselves with a cup of tea, (served with the stems, etc., in a cup covered by an inverted saucer), and some small round fruit-cakes. If you wish to taste their peculiar rice-spirit, it will be served in cups holding a thimbleful ; and you will find this quite enough, probably, and hasten afterward to eat or drink the most pungent things you can find to get rid of the unspeakably disgusting taste it leaves upon the palate. Gambling, in the game with small cards called fan tan, is rife in the Chinese quarter ; but it is against the law and carefully hidden, so that ingenuity and help will be required to discover where it is going on, disarm suspicion and get a chance to witness it. Opium Smoking rooms, popularly called "joints," are hidden away in Pell and Doyer sts., but it is dangerous to visit them, as the police are likely to raid them at any moment, and the consequences to every one found there are exceed- ingly unpleasant. The price ot " hitting the pipe " is $1. The habit has spread outside the Chinese quarter, and now "joints" exist uptown, whose patrons are wholly white men and women, who yield themselves to the pipe without any restraint of dignity or decency. They are principally on the West Side somewhat above and below 34th st. The following picture of an opium-den in Chinatown is little if any exaggerated. " There is certainly nothing inviting about this particular joint, but it is a fair 210 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. type of its class. A weazened-faced Chinaman admits the visitor after first closely scrutinizing him. The doorkeeper leads the way to the rear of the house and admits the mtending smoker into a large room, whose only furniture is two little tables, on which the ' dope ' is prepared, and a number of unhealthy-looking bunks on which the smokers recline. There are back of the large room several closets and alcoves in which are bunks placed one above the other. The atmosphere, odors and appearance of the place are offensive to the last degree. Yet over there on one of the lounges is a girl whom a painter would call beautiful, and on whose every feature is the stamp of refinement. Her tawny chestnut hair falls in a shim- mering yellow cascade down over her broad bosom and shoulders, her clear hazel eyes are growing dull and lustreless as the drug asserts its influence, and her white, rounded arm is thrown around the neck of a repulsively ugly Chinaman beside her. Suddenly her eyes close, the pipe drops from between her nerveless fingers and she falls back on. the lounge in a trance that seems like death. There are in the room about thirty smokers. Of these eight are white girls and si.x white men, the rest being Chinamen. Nearly all are stupefied and lie piled on top of each other in the bunks in attitudes and with expressions of the most horri- ble grotesqueness. An old Chinaman is " cooking his dope " in the furthest away corner of the room. As the green light from the tiny lamp flashes and flickers over his cadaverous features, throwing an eerie gleam into the hungry eyes, he presents a picture that equals the terrors of any portraiture in Dante's ' Inferno.' Dark Corners Behind the Bowery. — I.et us turn from Pell into Elizabeth, and walk rapidly northward. The street is a dark caiion between lofty ware- houses and tenements. We meet few persons and see few in the doorways, and most of the windows are dark, for the working men and women, whose wagons and handcarts crowd the narrow, muddy street, are asleep. The green lamps of a police station show a clean space in front of its white doorway, where two officers are trying to get a struggling woman, desperately drunk, up the stairway, without actually carrying her. One of them gives her a resounding spank with his open hand, which must have reminded her of her childhood's days, if she ever had any, and in she goes, with a bound nearly upsetting the small doorman. If you care to see the inside of a police station, its cells and lodging rooms, here is a good opportunity. Music, mingled with the click of billiard ballS;, comes through the grated win- dows of a round-roofed building opposite, the rear of the Atlantic Garden. Canal St. is crossed, a group of women on the corner seeming to get into our way pur- posely, instead of stepping aside as we brush past. The next block is dotted with loitering girls who leer at us under their drooping hat brims, and thrust out their elbows to touch us as we pass. There is another block or two of the same sodden and terrible gauntlet beyond, but we escape it by turning up Broome st. to the brilliant Bowery, which is only one block away; Chrystie st., on the other side of the Bowery, is almost the same, but one glimpse of that sort of thing is enough. The Bowery. — It is only eleven o'clock, and the Bowery is still crowded with A RAMBLE AT NIGHT. 211 people, and brilliant wilh innumerable lights along its whole length. There is no other such a street in America. " In it is probably represented every civilized nation on the globe, and it is unquestionably a democratic street. It is the an- tithesis of Broadway, and the grand avenue of the respectable lower classes." Years ago it was the resort of a peculiar type of braggart ruffians, the Bowery boys, who were the heroes of that New York which was guarded by the " leather head " police, and ran to fires " wid de machine " of their favorite volunteer com- pany, Dickens found here material to his taste. No chapter in his " American Notes " is more graphic or true than that upon the Bowery ; and Thackeray was anxious first of all to see this street and its habitues. But that time passed with the era of the war, and the coming of the immigrants. Americans have almost disappeared from all that part of New York, and the swaggering "boy" has de- parted. The " young feller " who remains is really no better, but he is more showy, less troublesome, and is in turn giving way to the German and Jew, good- natured and frugal, even in their amusements. Larger buildings and better shops are exhibited year by year, and the Bowery is gradually but steadily rising. " Here retail stores, beer-saloons, pawn shops, dime museums, theatres, etc., crowd upon each other, and an incessant multitude streams along the encumbered sidewalks. The German language seems to predominate, appearing in hundreds of sign-boards and coming from thousands of lips. . . . While always crowded and full of life, the Bowery presents itself in all its glory of a Saturday night, when wage-earneis have a little spare time to themselves, and are abroad with a week's earnings in their pockets. King Beer holds high carnival. Beer-saloons and gar- dens are almost as closely packed as sardines in a tin box. Each saloon is extrav- agant in its offers of a free lunch to all its patrons, and the lunch is in each case attacked by a perspiring and not too particular throng. Ten men to one fork ! The red herring, so conducive to thirst, is not popular, the tripe having evidently borne the brunt of attack. The cheese has suffered greatly, too, and looks as though it wished itself dead, which it isn't. Then, out on the sidewalks hoodlums abound ; and not only hoodlums of the sterner sex, bnt hoodlums of the gentler and amiable type of humanity — female hoodlums, from thirteen to sixteen years of age, short of dress, long of tongue, with bangs, bold eyes, tremendous hats, and ' Mikado tuck-ups ' to their hair. The street swarms with them, and they seem to 'know it all.' Not wholly bad, perha])s, but on the road to being so. They are in quest of excitement, aching for attention, dying for a dance, hungering for admira- tion, and ready to go any length for a compliment. How near akin are vanity and vice ! On every hand are lung-testers, vendors of candy, buttons, suspenders, pop- corn ; and here and there, on hand-carts, ' bankrupt stocks ' of large wholesale houses, purchased at small cost, are disj^layed and offered at ' ruinous sacrifices.' The theatres and dime museums are ablaze with light, and crowded with tobacco and gum chewers ; the stores are filled to overflowing with bargains ; and every corner is buttressed by live statues, many of whom would sooner fight than eat, while others have a greater longing for eating than for a bout at fisticuffs." — Illustrated New York. The old Bowery Theatre, near Chatham sq., still stands, but its fortunes have 212 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. greatly clianged. It was originally built in 1826, on the site of the older Bull's Head Cattle Market, and was opened as the New York Theatre, in the comedy The Road to Ruin. It was then the largest theatre in America, and would seat 3000 people. It was burnt three times, and the present building dates from 1838. Many actors of past eminence, and some still in high esteem on the stage have performed there, in both tragedy and comedy ; but the Bowery was long ago aban- doned by fashion, and with it went the high dramatic respectability which this theatre at first commanded. For a long time it was devoted to the most sensa- tional melodrama, and then, a few years ago, passed under a German manage- ment, and became The Thalia. For a time good plays in German were to be seen there, but these were soon taken elsewhere, and now performances in the German- Jewish dialect of the region prevail, with an occasional run of so-called English in melodrama and " variety bills." The other theatres of the Bowery are the People''s and the Windsor, where good plays are seen ; and Miner''s, the London, and some lesser ones which give " variety " performances. Many so-called "theatres " along the street are simply concert saloons. " By this title," says a recent clever writer, " New Yorkers understand a class of resorts such as a respectable person would not like to be seen in. Formerly Broadway, in the neighborhood of Bleecker st., was full of them ; but of late years they have come to confine themselves almost entirely to the Bowery. In them women are employed as attendants, and a lavish display of gas-jets, and paint and tinsel outside, serves to give the passer-by an impression of splendor within which the reality by no means warrants. The women are seldom good-looking, vulgar as a rule, and ignorant always. The music is furnished from a badly thumped piano, the liquors sold are vile, and the women insist on being treated constantly to a concoction which they dignify with the name of brandy, and for which they charge accordingly. The frequenters of these places are chiefly foolish young clerks and mechanics, who labor under the delusion that this is ' seeing life.' Strangers should be very careful about going into them." The Russian Quarter. — It is getting late. We must hurry eastward. Here is Chatham sq. again. A maze of streets radiates off at the left — dark, narrow streets leading down toward the East River, and we can see in the distance a few of the lights on the Brooklyn Bridge, and distinguish against the sky the shadowy blur of a tower. Let us follow the line of the Second Av. El. Ry. up Division st. as far as Market st., running the gauntlet of hook-nosed girls in front of the milli- nery stores, who, from pure force of habit, will beseech us to go in and buy some- thing " for your young lady, sir." It is an odd bit of the city. Then we turn down Market, a broad and once important street, which runs down to East River, and cross over one block to East Broadway, a semi-fashionable thoroughfare half a century ago, but now the central avenue of the Russian and Polish quarter, so far as these people can be separated from Jews, Bohemians and Hungarians, A HAMBLR AT NIGHT. 213 who throng a square mile of marvellously crowded tenements in this region. Here, among his countrymen, dwells many a political refugee or escaped soldier from the dominion of the Tsar ; or if, as is usually the case in New York, the edu- cation of the exile enables him to earn enough to live in a better place, he is often to be seen here as a visitor. .Signs in Russian letters are frequent. One of these, over the door of a basement liquor saloon, suggests to us that we go in and get a glass of vodka, or Russian spirits ; there is little in it that differs from any bar- room of the vicinity, and the drink is nothing but poor whiskey. The sign of a Russian restaurant, kept by J. Balochowsky, at No. 140, attracts us. We find a neat room, once the parlor of a big house, where a mother and two comely daughters are chatting with half a dozen dark-skinned young men, who sit smoking cigarettes at small tables. We get some bread and coffee, and go our way, having seen little if anything out of the ordinary. The Russian, the Pole, the Bohemian, is lost at once in the American ; but the Jew remains a Jew. In " Judea." — We turn disappointedly out of East Broadway, and wander about the narrow dirty streets northward: and westward — Forsythe, Allen, Orchard, Ludlow, Hester, and Canal. Everywhere si.x- and seven-storied brick tenement houses are crowded to their eaves with humanity. One single square mile in this part of town holds a quarter of a million persons. Nine-tenths of them are Ger- mans or Germanized Jews and Bohemians. They are the hardest-working part of the population, and spend the least of "what they earn. The Israelites are the most interesting. They form a community by themselves, supplying each other's wants and having communication only to a limited extent with outsiders. Here is where the fakirs and peddlers who throng the lower part of the town get their supplies and learn how to earn their livelihood, even before they have any idea of the language of the country. There is no special reason why we should come to see them at night, save for the picturesqueness of it; except on Thursday night (preceding the Hebrew Sab- bath, which begins at Friday's sunset) when the streets, and especially Hester St., are crowded to suffocation with crowds of strollers and buyers of the holiday's provisions, and long lines of handcarts, selling every conceivable thing and illu- minated by flaring oil-torches. The little shops open their doors to the widest, and upon every cellar door some zealous merchant displays a heap of second-hand goods, and howls out the 'name and virtues of his wares. " In that district on the East Side," to quote the New York Sim of recent date, "where Chief Rabbi Joseph is the supreme arbiter in the more important matters of life . . . the tongue that is known to all the orthodox Jews is a jargon com- posed of German, Hebrew, and English. Most of the orthodox Jews who settle on the East Side bring with them from Europe a jargon very similar to this one, but rarely containing any English. It is known to the more enlightened Gernvan 214 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Jew as Jiidish-Deutsch, and is composed partly of German and partly of He- brew. ... In quite a large district, extending around the southern part of East Broadway as a centre, this language is not only used in speaking, but also in writ- ing. All the signs that are to be found there among the orthodox are printed in A CURBSTONE MARKET IN HESTER STREET. Hebrew characters, but there are very few Hebrew words in them. Usually the words are German, but here and there a corrupted phrase or word from English or Hebrew is introduced. . . . All sorts of business in this district are carried on by Jews, and therefore these signs are very numerous. They cater, of course, to their co-religicnists, and a few Christians who live among them neither patronize them nor are patronized by them. Here are to be found Jewish printers, restaurant keepers, tailors, grocers, and even saloon keepers. In fact, the Jewish saloon is one of the oddest of all the features of this very peculiar district. Some of the drinks sold there are distinctive, and the way of conducting business is entirely unlike that in any of the other saloons of the city." A RAMBLE AT NIGHT. 215 There are a nuinber of little restaurants on East Broadway, where meals are served "d'Av-V,— the first Roman church in the city. A picture of St. Peter's, dated 1831, shows a building with a broad, but not tall tower, surmounted by a cupola with a bell-shaped top. The grounds, in which large trees then grew, were surrounded by a wall carrying an iron fence, and con- taining a small burying ground. The king of Spain and the French and Spanish ambassadors to our new government were its chief benefactors. I-ater $5000 were collected in Mexico, for its benefit, with a number of pictures for its adornment. One of its conniuniicants was Mrs. Elizabeth A. Seton, afterwards founder of the Sisters of Charity in the United States. In 1838 the present stately church replacing the original edifice was opened in the midst of a crowd of buildings and din of traffic never dreamed of by its builders. In 1808 the diocese of New York (including the whole state and New Jersey) was set off from that of Baltimore, and in 1809 the corner-stone of the old St. Pat- rick's Cathedral in Mott st. was laid, but the building was not ready for consecra- tion until 181 5. It was by far the best church in the city at that time. The first bishops were successively Connolly and Dubois, both of whom, with several early priests, are buried beneath the pavement. It still serves the purposes of a parish church, and has preserved a little of its old burial-ground. In 1840 the Catholics in New York were estimated at 35,000, and had eight or ten churches. "In 1870," to quote Archbishop Corrigan's latest report, " the Catholic population of the diocese was 525,000; to-day it is 800,000. In 1870 the number of churches, was 113; in 1890 it is 196. This makes no account of the vast improvement in the size and beauty of our church edifices. No account is made of the substitution of new buildings for old. There were in 1870, 210 priests in the diocese. The present number is 496. The numljer of Sisters in the diocese in 1870 was 800: now it is 2,268. The schools twenty years ago numbered 120: now they are 229. In 1870 many of the schools were in poorly lighted and ventilated basements. There has been a vast improvement in the two decades, and the schools now being built will compare favorably with any in the city. In 1870 23,000 children attended the parish schools ; now the number is 48,000." The Cathedral is the first, of course, of the Roman churches, and the great show-church of the city ; it is described at length further on. SUNDA Y AND RELIGIOUS WORK IN NEW YORK. 231 About 70 other Roman Catholic churches are catalogued of which only a few need be commented upon. The oldest, as has been said, is St. Feter''s (Barclay and Church sts.). Among others of comparatively great age are : Epiphany (373 Second av.) lately presided over by Dr. Burtsell; Immaculate Conception (Morris- THE CATHEDRAL, FROM THE NORTH. ania), a German congregation, and to be distinguished from the church of the same name at 505 E. 14th st., where Father Edwards was pastor ; Mary, Star of the Sea, (7 State st.) for sailors, etc. ; St. Aiidrew^s (Duane st.) : St. Bridgefs (123 Av. B) ; ^V. _/;Wd'jV (32 James St.); St. Joseph'' s (59 Sixth av.), the parish of 232 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Father Farrell, who became very notable as an anti-slavery preacher and writer, before and during the Civil War ; St. Mary's (near Grand st. ferry), and St. Patrick's, the old cathedral, at Mott and Prince sts., now ministering chiefly to Italians. Churches distinguished by race are : Mount Carniel {w"] E, 115th St.), Italian; St. Benedict the Moor (210 Bleecker St.), African; St. Vincent de Paul {i2'j W. 23d St.), French; Immaculate Conception (Morrisania), St. Joseph's (E. 87th st. near First av.), St. Joseph's (Ninth av. and 125th st), St. Mary Magdalen (17th st. and Av. B), German ; and St. Stanislatcs's (43 Stanton St.), Polish. Father Brophy's church was that of the Sacred Heart (447 W. 51st st.) ; and Dr. Bram's, now Father IMcDonald's, St. Agnes (143 E. 43d St.). The Jesuits have an imposing church and college dedicated to St. Francis Xavier in W. i6th st. near Sixth av. ; and another, St. Larurence's in E. 84th st. near Fourth av. ; and the Dominicans' church is St. Vincent Ferrer, Lexington av. and E. 66th st. All Saints, Madison av., cor. E. I2gth st., is the most noted R. C. house of worship in Harlem, and has just completed an extremely handsome rectory. Mohsignor Farley's church is another wealthy one, at 312 E. 37th St.; but the most fashionable church of the city, next to the Cathedral is probably St. Stephen's, 140 E. 2Sth St., which was lately in charge of Dr. McGlynn, whose quarrel with the ecclesiastical authorities, and whose oratory in propagating the doctrines of the Anti- Poverty Society, at whose Sunday evening meetings in the Cooper Union he speaks almost every week, have made him famous. This church is an Italian Renaissance building, the interior of which is spacious and richly decorated and contains an especially beautiful altar. THE CATHEDRAL. The Cathedral, on Fifth av. between 50th and 51st sts. should not be omitted from the list of places strangers ought to visit in New York. Its projector was the late Archbishop John Hughes, and the architect was James Renwick. All the designing and execution of the work, mechanical and artistic, was done in New York, except certain adornments, hereafter mentioned. The corner-stone was laid on Aug. 15, 1858, in the presence of 100,000 persons, who had room to stand on the adjacent lots, then vacant. On May 25, 1879, ^^^ structure was dedicated by Cardinal McCloskey, who died in 1885. From an elaborate account written by the architect, we learn that this cathedral is an example of the decorated and geometric style of Gothic architecture which prevailed in Europe from 1275 to 1400, and of which the cathedral of Cologne and the nave of Westminster are advanced exponents; and that although Europe can boast larger ones, for purity of style, originality of design, harmony of proportions, beauty of material, and finish of workmanship, New York Cathedral stands unsur- passed. SUNDA Y AND RELIGIOUS WORK IN NEW YORK. 233 Architectural Details. — The plan is a Latin cross, and the dimensions are : Length, 306 ft.; breadth of nave and choir, 96 ft. without the chapels and 120 ft. with the chapels; length of the transept, 140 ft.; height, 108 ft; height of side aisles, 54 ft. Above the granite base-course the whole exterior is of white marble from Pleasantville, Westchester Co., N. Y., and from Lee, Mass. The principal front, on Fifth av., consists of a central gable, 156 ft. in height, flanked by twin towers and spires, 330 ft. high. The grand portal in the lower division of the cen- tral gable has its jambs richly decorated with columns with foliage capitals, and has clustered mouldings, with rich ornaments in the arch, which is also decorated and fringed with a double row of foliated tracery. It is intended at some future period to place statues of the Twelve Apostles in the coves of the jambs of this portal, in rich tabernacles of white marble. A transom of foliage, with emblematic designs, crosses the opening of the door, over which a window, with beautiful tracery, tills in the arch. The gablet over the main portal is richly panelled with tracery, having the arms of the diocese in the central panel. The label over the gable is crocketed with an original design of the grape-vine and morning-glory, intertwined and alternating in the crockets, and the whole is terminated by a very rich and beautiful finial. The door is ilanked on either side by buttresses termi- nating in panelled pinnacles, and between these buttresses and the tower but- tresses are niches for statues. The horizontal balustrade over the first story is of rich pierced tracery. Over this and across the whole gable except over the cen- tral portal, is a row of niches for statues. Above, a richly moulded Gothic jamb encloses a magnificent rose window, 26 ft. in diameter, equalling those of the greatest cathedrals abroad. Above this rose- window the main gable is carried up to the roof-lines, and is veiled by a pierced screen of rich tracery, terminated by a label-cornice which is crocketed. The crockets are designed from leaves and flowers of the passion-flower, and at the gable entwine a foliated cross bearing the emblem of the Sacred Heart. The towers rise square to 136 ft., where they change into octagonal lanterns 54 ft. high, over which are the spires, 140 ft. in height, making the total height of each tower and spire, 330 ft. ; they are flanked by massive buttresses decorated with very light and beautiful tabernacles at each offset, and terminated by clustered pinnacles, which join the buttresses of the octagonal lanterns. The spires are octagonal, built in two stories, have rich moulding in the angles, and the faces panelled with traceries; they terminate in a magnificent foliage finial carrying crosses made of copper. Circular stone stairways are carried up in the buttresses of the towers, and a full chime of bells will soon be placed at a height of no ft. above the ground. These twin spires are newer than the rest of the church and still white and perfect. They are visible for a long distance, should be studied through an opera-glass to realize how fine and beautiful is the carving, and are a subject of pride and delight to all the citizens of the metropolis. Visitors should walk around the Cathedral and note the fine details of its architecture from various points of view — the buttresses, pinnacles and side arches ; the ornamented gables and great windows of the transept, 58 ft. high and 28 ft. wide. Some day statues will fill the numerous niches. The side aisles of the transept are flanked by octagonal buttresses, in which are stairways leading to the triforium and roofs. The apse, or curved head of the cruciform ground-plan, is five-sided externally, and, like the other parts, is divided by the biittresses into 234 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. bays, each of which is pierced by a grand window filled with stained glsss, pro- tected by a second window of white glass. The roofs of the side-aisles and clerestories are slated, and the clerestory roof is terminated by a gilded metal cresting with a central tinial at the intersection of the nave and transepts 15 ft. in height, terminated by a cross at the east end of the roof 13 ft. in height, and gilt with flowers and foliage. The Interior of the Cathedral, like its exterior, is cruciform, divided in its ground-plan into a nave, two transepts, and a choir or sanctuary. The nave of the building, or the entire portion between the transepts and Fifth av., is 164 ft. long and 96 ft. wide between the side-aisle walls, or 124 ft. broad including the side, aisle chapels, which are seven in number, on each side, with corresponding illu- minated windows above them. The transept, or arins of the cross, measures 144 ft. ; and the sanctuary is 95 ft. long, to the extremity of the curve of the apse, under which is a crypt for the entombment of the archbishops, which will hold 42 coffins ; Cardinal McCloskey's body rests there. The transept and sanctuary have bays, like the nave. The columns dividing the central aisle from the side aisles are of white marble, clustered to the height of 35 ft. where they are ornamented with foliated capitals. The arches between these columns rise to 54 ft., and are four in number on each side, corresponding to the divisions of the clerestory windows, which are a continuation of the tracery of the triforium. The ceiling, 77 ft. from the floor, is groined with richly moulded ribs. The floor is largely occupied by pews which will seat about 2500 people, buf broad aisles and spaces remain clear in which visitors may walk about freely. The floor of the choir before the High Altar is elevated. The alcoves (bays) along the walls will ultimately be filled with chapel altars, but are now occupied by small confessionals. It is intended to erect, in the near future, an additional building, in the form of a chapel to Our Lady, which will stand in the rear of the apse, and between the residence of the Archbishop and the Rectory (460 Madison av.) where dwell the clergymen in attendance upon the cathedral. In this chapel will be placed the confessionals and the Stations of the Cross, which are temporarily arranged, at present, in the south transept. The building is lighted by gas jets, placed for the most part around the capitals of the great central columns, and is heated by steam. It is open at all reasonable hours, and the verger will answer any questions. Altars. — The High Altar* is at the east end of the nave, in the central aisle of the choir, and conceals from view the sacristy (temporary) where the sacerdotal procession that precedes the Mass is vested and arranged. * The description of the altars and windows is greatly condensed from the pamphlet on the Cathedral by the Rev. Wm. Quinn, which gives large additional details on these and other points, and should be in the hands of interested visitors. It is for sale by the verger at ^he Cathedral, SUNDAY AND RELIGIOUS WORK IN NEW YORK. 235 This altar was made in Italy and is of Carrara marble, inlaid with alabasters and precious marbles. The front of the bottom part of the altar is divided into niches and panels; the niches containing statnes of the four Evangelists, the panels representing in bas reliefs the Last Supper, the Carrying of the Cross, the Agony in the Garden. The tabernacle on the altar is of marble, decorated with Roman mosaics, and has a door of gilt bronze set with emeralds and garnets. It is the gift of His Eminence John, Cardinal McCloskey, whose hat is suspended over the center of the choir. The reredos or altar-screen, -^t^ ft. wide and 50 ft. high, was carved in France^ and was presented by the clergy of the Archdiocese. The centre tower of the reredos has a niche containing a statue of our Lord, and the two flanking towers bear statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. The spaces between the central and the two corner towers are divided into six niches, con- taining angelic figures bearing emblems of the Passion. The Allai- of the Blessed Virgin is at the eastern end of the north side-aisle of the sanctuary, and is French stone, delicately sculptured into panels containing in low relief, such subjects as the Birth of Our Lord, the Annunciation, and the Descent from the Cross. The Altar of the Sacred Heart in the south transept, i^ of bronze, and its four statues represent the sacrifices of the old dispensation, and, in the middle, Jesus holding a chalice. The columns on each side, surmounted by bronze statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, are a gift from Pope Pms IX. This altar was presented to the Cathedral by Cardinal McCloskey. The Altar of tJie Holy Family is in the north transept. Its reredos, of carved Caen stone, is divided into three panels, the center one having a painting of the Holy Family by Castaggio, and was the gift of Joseph Donahue, of San Francisco. The four altars above described are said to have cost about $100,000. St. Joseph'' s Altar, west of the sacristy, is of bronze and mosaic. In the middle one of the three scenes, the Archangel Gabriel announces the Incarnation to the Virgin ; on the Gospel side vSt. Joseph teaches the infant Jesus his trade, and opposite St. Anne instructs the child Mary. This altar was given by Mrs. Agnes Maitland. The Archbishop's Throne, on the left, within the sanctuary is notable for its elaborately carved Gothic canopy. The Pulpit — a gift of the clergy of the diocese to Cardinal McCloskey on his " Jubilee " in 1884 — is erected at the first column, outside the rich altar rail. " It' is of the same style of Gothic architecture (Norman) as the building itself, and was designed by the same architect. It was carved and finished at Carrara, Italy, and is from the quarry which furnished the columns of the portico of the Pan- theon at Rome. It is octagonal in form and carried by eight columns of beautiful Sienna marble, with their bases and caps moulded and enriched with carvings, and resting on a finely moulded pedestal of Carrara marble. Over these columns the outward swell of the corbel or body begins ; the surface is divided by light mouldings, and tastefully ornamented with oak and chestnut leaves; the cornice of the corbel, enriched with carvings of the bell flower, marks the starting line of 236 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. the latera or sides of the pulpit ; each side representing the perfect triform Gothic arch: sustained by columns of Mexican onyx, and moulded, panelled, and highly ornamented. On the angles between each side are niches, in which are placed statuettes of pure white statuary marble The statuette in the niche nearest the sanctuary, represents St. John the Evangelist; the next, St. Peter; St. Patrick occupies the center niche; on his left, is St. Paul ; and in the fifth and last is the statue of St. Andrew, the Apostle." The rostrum is reached by a flight of steps winding around the marble column, carrying a balustrade of rich, pierced tracery work. The marble in which this work is executed is known to conniosseurs as canal-bianco, and is from the quarry from which were extracted the marble columns of the portico of the Pantheon, at Rome. The Windows of St. Patrick's Cathedral have been called the finest collection of examples of painted glass in the world. All are the product of French art- workers, and most of them were made under the very shadow of the Cathedral of Chartres, where the most beautiful specimens of the Xlllth Century stained gla.ss are preserved. Of these windows, t,-j represent figures and action, and twenty mote are filled with stained glass in geometric designs. The first to be mentioned is St. Patrick's Window, the great six-parted one over the south transept door, which portrays in eighteen scenes the whole life of the patron saint of Ireland. Beginning at the base of the left hand bay, and reading the scenes upward in lines of three each, we find: i. The baptism of St. Patrick; 2. He is taken prisoner at the age of thirteen ; 3. An angel reveals to him his vocation ; 4. He preaches the gospel on board a ship ; 5. He is sold to King Milcho ; 6. He is set at liberty at Maestric; 7. He is made a cleric by his uncle, St. Martin, Bishop of Tours; 8. He pursues his studies in the island of Lerins; 9. He is ordained a priest by Bishop Sancaur; 10. He sets out for Rome; ii. He receives the bless- ing of Pope Celestine ; 12. He is consecrated Bishop by St. Amataur; 13. He visits St. Germain d'Auxerre; 14. He converts Dichu and his family (on his arrival in Ireland); 15. He gives Holy Communion to the princesses Ethna and Feth- lema; 16. He raises Malfric from the dead; 17. The Saint's death; 18. The angels singing his funeral dirge. In the center of the tracery is the beautifully exe- cuted scene of St. Patrick's coronation in heaven. This window is from the atelier of Ely, at Nantes, and is seen to best advantage just before sunset. It was the gift of "Old St. Patrick's Cathedral to the New." The Wiiidcno of the Blessed Virgin, over the north transept door, contains 19 scenes, read from left to right in lines of six each. Beginning at the bottom of the left hand bay, we find: i. The nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary ; 2. Her presentation in the temple ; 3. She is taught by St. Anne ; 4. Espoused to St. Joseph ; 5. The Annunciation ; 6. The angel apjiears to St. Joseph in his sleejj ; 7. The Blessed Virgin visits St. Elizabetli ; 8. The Nativity of our Lord; 9. The Shepherds adore the Infant Jesus ; 10. Adoration of Jesus by the Magi ; 11. Presentation of the Infant Jesus in the temple; \2. The flight into Egypt,* 13. Joseph carries th? Ipfant Jesus during the journey ; 14. The SUNDA Y AND RELIGIOUS WORK IN NEW YORK'. 237 Holy Family in Nazareth ; 15. The Mother of Sorrows ; 16. Descent of the Holy Ghost upon Mary and the Apostles; 17. Death of the Blessed Virgin; 18. The Assumption. High above in the center of the tracery is the scene of our Lady's coronation. In tlie tracery around the coronation scene, the trefoils, etc., are filled with the symbols of the various titles of the Blessed Virgin. This window is said by many critics to be the finest in the collection. It — and the series coming next — are by Lorin of Chartres ; and it was given by the clergy of the diocese of Albany. Turning toward the sanctuary, we observe in the clerestory eleven windows, of which tie si.x lateral ones represent subjects relating to sacrifice ; and the re- mainder are devoted to the history of Our Lord. Of the former series the first is The Sacrifice of Abel, and it was the gift of Charles and John Johnston. The subject of the next is The Thanksgiving Sacrifice of Noe (Noah), who "built an altar unto the Lord, and taking all cattle and fowls that were clean offered holocausts upon the altar." The effect of the rainbow, as seen at night when the interior of the Cathedral is illuminated, is something remarkable. The adjoining window represents The Sacrifice of Me/chiseJech, when " Melchisedech, th6 King of Salem, bring- ing forth bread and wine, for he was the priest of the most high God, blessed Abram, and said : Blessed be Abram by the most high God, who created heaven and earth." Crossing to the south side the first window there represents The Sacrifice of Abraham, at the moment when the angel bade him stay his knife. This picture in glass is the gift of D. J. Murphy, of San Francisco. The subject of the next is Eating the Paschal Lamb, and is treated in a peculiarly graphic and detailed manner. The sixth and last of this series is Calvary. — " In the distance rises the Mount of Calvary, with three naked crosses standing out against the sky. The sacrifice is over, Christ has been laid in the tomb. The sun of Justice is rising behind Calvary. An allegorical figure of Error is seen fleeing into the night, surrounded by owls and bats and the emblems of darkness, and stumbling over the debris of broken altars and implements of Pagan worship. In the foreground rises an allegorical figure of Truth, who, with uplifted cross, rules the world. Before this figure stands an altar on which a kneeling form is placing the noblest offering ever made to Truth in this hemis- phere. The figure is that of his Eminence the Cardinal Archbishop of New York ; the offering is the new St. Patrick's Cathedral." This is the gift of John Laden. The windows of the curving apse should be read from the south side around to the left. The first is The Resurrection of Lazarus, and its donor is Miss McLaughlin. Next it is 238 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. The Comiiiunion of St. John, representing a touching scene at the Last Sujiper and presented by Miss Mary Caldwell to commemorate her first communion. Next, in the most conspicuous position, is portrayed The Kesiirrection of Our Lord. — Mary Magdalen, Joanna, and Mary the mother of James, are seen approaching in the distance. This window is inscribed " From the Diocese of Buffalo." The subject of the fourth window is Giving the Keys to Peter; a gift of the diocese of Brooklyn. The fifth and last of thisseries represents Jesus meeting the Disciples going to Ei)tinaits, whom he reproaches with their incredulity. The tracery of all these windows teems with figures of angels and scripture-texts. The Lady Chapel, adjoining, has windows that merit notice. That in the first bay represents X\i& Presentation of the Blessed Virgin in the Temple ; the high priest advances to receive the child, while St. Joachim and St. Anne stand in the background. This is a memorial to Tammany's old-time leader, the Hon. John Kelly. The next is the Adoration of the Shepherds, given by Thos. H. O'Connor. The third exhibits the Holy Babe, and is due to Mrs. Julia Coleman. Opposite it, on the south aisle, is the Death of St. Joseph. In the center bay of the next one stands a life-size figure of St. Alphonsns Ligonri, vested in cope and mitre and holding the Monstrance in his hand. The scene underneath represents St. Alphon- sus miraculously giving speech to a dumb youth. The figure in the left-hand bay represents Ste. Teresa, and that on the right is Ste. Susanna, the martyr — that under- neath being the angel protecting Susanna from the evil designs of Maximian, the infidel, and chosen heir to the Roman throne, to whom her relative, the emperor Diocletian, wished to wed her, but she chose to suffer death, rather than obey him. These three last named were given by the Loubat family. The next window, over the Altar of St. Agnes, is divided in the same way. In the centre a life-size figure of St. Agnes, the virgin martyr of Rome, is seen ; under- neath the angel protects her from the pagan and casts him, blinded, to the ground. In the right-hand bay the Apostle St. James the Greater stands forth ; the scene below this figure represents the Blessed Virgin appearing to him at Sara- gossa, in Spain, on the site of which was built a church that is known to the present day as the Church of the Pillar of St. Mary. The figure in the left-hand bay is St. Thomas, the Apostle ; underneath he is seen touching the sacred wound in the side of Our Lord. This window is the gift of Mrs. Agnes Maitland. Having described the windows of the sanctuary, we turn now to the southern arm of the transept, where we meet, first : The Window of St. Lonis, King of France, who, in return for services to Bald- win, emperor of Constantinople, received many relics of Calvary. The sub- ject is the procession in which these relics are borne to La Sainte Chapelle, in SUNDAY AND RELIGIOUS WORK IN NEW YORK. 239 Paris. Behind tlie king is seen Queen Blanche, his mother, surrounded by nobles. H. L. Hoguet was the donor. Next in order conies the window of The Sacred Hearty given by Mrs. E. Iselin ; following which is St. PdiiPs Windotu, where the apostle is portrayed speaking to the Athenians on the Areopagus. Prominent among the audience is Dionysius, the convert, who, tradition says, afterwards founded the church of Paris. This piece is in- scribed to John Kelly, from his brother Eugene. Adjoining this is the window of Sf. Augustine at the deathbed of St. Monica, his mother, with Ostia-on-the-Tiber, where she died, in the distance. This window is a memorial erected by the wealthy Misses Caldwell to their parents. St. Mdttheiv's Windoiv, is on the east side of the north transept door ; and St. I\Iark's is on the west side of the same door. In the south transept, on the west side of the entrance, \sSt. Luke's Windoiu and St. John's is opposite. In each case, of the above, four scenes from the life of the saint fill the lateral bays of his window, and all are the work of Ely, of Nantes. On the west wall of the north transept is the Windcrw of St Charles Borromeo, who advances in solemn procession from the door of the cathedral of Milan into a concourse of plagiie-stricken citizens. This window was the gift of L. Delmonico, the restaurateur. On the west wall of the south transept is the Windo7o of St. Patrick, designed and presented by the Architect Renwick. St. Patrick is j^reaching to Irish peasants, one of whose primitive wooden churches (see Century, 1S89), is depicted in the distance. The scene underneath represents the architect submitting his plan to Archbishop Hughes, who is seated at a table. Cardinal McCloskey stands in the foreground, holding the diagram of that part of the building which he has altered from the original plan. Behind His Eminence stands M. Lorin, the maker of the window. The portraits are e.xcellent, and the minute details exquisitely rendered. Turning now toward the long aisles of the nave there remain ten windows which merit far more attention than can be given here. Dr. Quinn describes them in detail, and the names of their donors can easily be read by visitors. Beginning on the north, or Gospel side, at the angle of the transept, we first meet St. Bernard's ^///(^/czc, where the saint is preaching the Second Crusade; his habit is that of the Cistercian order. The next portrays the Martyrdom of St. Latvrence, and will repay study. Adjoining this is the Windoiv of the Christian Brothers, representing the special approbation of Pope Benedict XIII. (1725). Next comes the brilliant Window of St. Columbanus, which depicts his encounter with the riotous Thierry II., King of Burgundy, who has come to visit him, bringing rich presents of viands and wine. St. Columbanus meets the King at the door of the monas- 240 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. teiy, rebukes him for his scandalous life, and with a blow strikes from the hand of the attendant the rare vessel of wine, saying : " God rejects the gifts of the wicked, nor ought they to pollute the lips of the servant of God." The King is at once converted. Behind the King is seen the stately figure of Brunchilda, retreat- ing, with a gesture of reprobation, toward her converted husband, and regarding the monk with a look of intense hatred. The four windows last enumerated are from Lorin's shop. The last in this, the north aisle, is the Window of the Three Baptisms, appropriately placed near the main entrance, and over the chapel of the baptistery. In the central bay is the scene of our Lord's baptism by St. John, the baptism of water; to the right is the scene of a martyrdom, and in the left bay a solitary reclining figure dying with a desire to be baptized. Crossing to the south aisle of the nave, the first one met with is the Window of St. Vincent de Paul, the legendary messenger of charity. In the right-hand one of the lateral pictures, the saint is represented calmly seated while the ball-and-chain of a galley-slave is made fast to his foot. The prisoner whose punishment the holy man has taken on him is going on his way rejoicing; on the left St. Vincent's devotion to homeless children is suggested. The last two win- dows are by Ely. Next fqllows a window, the three bays of which hold figures of St. Elizabeth, St. Andrew and St. Catherine. — The first of these (on the left side) was Queen of Hungary and good to the poor. One day, when carrying bread to some pensioners, she was met by her husband, who suspected her of hav- ing a lover and insisted upon seeing what she carried with such an attempt at concealment. The queen unfolds her mantle, when lo ! the bread has been miraculously turned into flowers, — heaven's approbation. In the center St. Andrew seems to be taking upon him his cross of martyrdom. In the right com- partment is the figure of St. Catherine, of Alexandria, who holds in one hand the palm branch of victory, and with the other leans on a wheel, the instrument of her glorious death. Beneath is a rendering of the visionary espousals of St. Cather- ine to our Lord, which Rubens has made so memorable. The adjoining window contains The Annunciation. — The Virgin is kneeling before her angelic visitor, who de- livers his supernal message. The interior of the home in Nazareth was copied from the Holy House of Loretto. The next window depicts The Battle of St. Henry, Emperor of Germany, against the Slavonians in de- fence of the Church, where he sees the spirits of St. Lawrence, St. Adrian and St. George fighting by his side. The last of the windows is that of the Immaculate Conception. — The scene is the memorable one in Rome, in 1854, when Pius IX. proclaimed to the world the dogma of the Immaculate Conception. The pontiff is standing on his throne after having proclaimed the dogma, in the act of giving the apostolic benediction. Cardinals, patriarchs, prelates, religious SUNDAY AND RELIGIOUS IVORIC IN NEW YORK. 241 men of several orders, and officers of the Papal Household troops stand about. Above the head of the Pope is a figure of the Immaculate Conception. The stat- ues of Sts. Peter and Paul, on either side, will be recognized by all who have seen the originals at the entrance to St. Peter's, Rome. The paintings in the north and south transepts, representing " The Baptism of Our Lord," " The Marriage Feast of Cana," "The Return of the Prodigal Son," " St. Patrick preaching at Tara," " The Sistine Madonna," and " The Transfigura- tion of Our Lord," were presented by the late Hon. John Kelly. The picture hanging over St.. Joseph's Altar on the wall of the sacristy is a copy of the cele- brated " Madonna del Sacco," painted by Andrea Del Sarto in the Church of the Servi, Florence. Religious Missions and Aid Societies. A great number of missionary and religious societies, both unsectarian and de- nominational, have their headquarters in this city. Some ' of these are national in character ; others purely local. The great center of Protestant evangelical labor and influence of this kind is Bible House, an immense brick edifice, seven stories high and occupying a whole block, bounded by Fourth av., 8th st., Third av. and 9th st. This building was erected in 1852 by the American Bible Society, an organization which began to print and diffuse the Scriptures in 1816, and has since distributed nearly 50,000,000 copies of the Bible, or important sections of it, in almost every recognized tongue. Here are the headquarters of the society, and a printing office, bindery, etc., em- ploying 500 persons, where the Scriptures are printed in many languages. The fire-proof library-room contains about 4,000 books of great rarity and value, includ- ing rare specimens of early typography, Bible translations, commentaries, etc., in various languages, and a few manuscripts. Among the valuable works, of modern date, on the Sacred Text, may be found Hansell's " Novum Testamentum Graece " ; " Novum Testamentum Vaticanum " ; Tischendorf's four-volume edition of the famous Codex Sinaiticus. In addition to supplying the poor, the freedmen, the immigrants, the humane and criminal institutions, hotels, steamers, and rail- roads, a great work is done by the society for the welfare of foreign lands. Its work in the city is conducted through an auxiliary organization called the N. Y. Bible Society, which employs agents who supply Bibles to vessels about to sail, to the emigrants going West from Castle Garden, and to families. One feature of this society is, that no member over 45 years of age can take part in its manage- ment. A second auxiliary, the Bible and Fruit Mission. 416 E. 26th St., distributes Bibles and fruit on Blackwell's Island and in the hospitals. The Am. Board of Foreign Missions (N. Y. office) ; the N. Y. City Mission and Tract Society (which employs 30 missionaries, sustains chapels, etc., among the 242 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. poor, at a cost of over $50,000 annually) ; the Atn. Church Missionary Society, the Am. Home Missionary Society, the Board of Missions of the P. E. Church, and the Women^s Union Missionary Society, the Atn. Baptist Home Mission Society, the Coftgregational Union, the Atn. Sutiday School Union, and \.\\e Evangelical Alliance are some of the other religious organizations having offices there ; while the ground floor is almost entirely occupied by dealers in Bibles and books of devotion. Societies and publication agencies connected with the Protestant Episcopal Church are scattered, their Diocesan House being at 19 Lafayette Place, their Tract Society at 12 Astor Place, their Sunday School Union at 713 Broadway, and so on. The headquarters of similar work in the Presbyterian denomination is at 53 Fifth av., as heietofore mentioned; the N. Y. Presbytery, however, sits at 153 E. 7Sth St. ; the Dutch Ref. Church centers at 26 Reade st. ; and the Methodists at Fifth av. and 20th st. The Baptist Social Union is at 200 W. 52d st., the Lutherans have mission offices at 26 State St., and the Swedenborgians in the Cooper Union. The Am. and Foreign Bible Society at 116 Nassau st. and the Am. Tract Society 2X 150 Nassau st. are well-known institutions near the City Hall, and many similar but more obscure or local religious societies may be found elsewhere by consulting Trow's City Directory. K. M. C. A. and K. W. C. A. The Young Men's Christian Association in New York is in a flourishing con- dition, and owns a large and handsome building, which cost $500,000, and stands at Fourth av. and 23d st. The interior is divided into a reception-room, reading- room, parlors, lecture and concert hall (with a seating capacity of 1,400), lecture- room, class-rooms, library, gymnasium, bowling-alley, and baths. On the top floor artists' studios are rented. The building is open to visitors all day, the library may be used by strangers, and religious gathering's for both sexes are held daily. The association sustains several branches in the Bowery and other parts of the city, of which the most notable is the Railroad branch, which occupies a hand- some building near the Grand Central Depot given by Cornelius Vanderbilt. The Young Men's Institute, occupying a fine new building at 222-4 Bowery, is an impor- tant branch of the organization, concerned with work down-town. The Young Women's Christian Association occupies a beautiful home at No. 7 E. 15th St., and devotes itself to helping in every way the young working women of the city. It has a library and many other features which will make it an interesting object to ladies visiting the city, who are welcome at the rooms. XIII. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. Public Schools. HE public school system of the city consists of graded ytYxfiMI/- schools, evening schools, corporate schools (industrial ~ iilTil^^ schools, reformatories, orphan asylums, etc.), the nautical school on the St. Mary, and the Normal College and the College of the City of New York. The total now ex- ceeds 300 schools, and it is constantly being amplified, yet loud complaints are heard of the inadequacy of the accommo- dations. The whole system is under control of the Board of Education, 21 in number, the terms of one-third of which expire each year, afford- ing an opportunity for the Mayor to change, annually, if he desires, one-third of the board, a part of whose members are women. In each ward five trustees and three inspectors are appointed by the Commissioners. The Board has an office building at 146 Grand st. " The free school system," quoting Appleton's Dictionary, " offers to the child- ren of parents in all grades of society the opportunity to acquire not only a good but a finished education, second to none in general excellence, if the pupil desire it, which can be obtained elsewhere in this country. Beginning with the primary schools, where the children are taught their A 1^ C's, the pupils are advanced on passing rigid examinations through the primary and grammar schools, and thence, if they so elect, the girls into the Normal College, and the boys into the College of the City of New York. The usual studies in English are sujiplemented in the grammar schools by the teaching of vocal music and the study of Erench and Ger- man. These languages are taken by permission, and are confined to pupils of the three higher grades in the grammar school. All other studies are obligatory. Within the past few years instruction in drawing has been made obligatory, and added to the subjects for examination for admission to both the colleges. No separate schools now exist for colored children. The evening schools give instruc- tion to over 20,000 young persons who are obliged to work during the day. The attendance of pupils is necessarily irregular, but as a rule they appreciate keenly their privilege and opportunities. The discipline in the schools is excellent and 244 GUIDE TO NEW VORK CITY. severe, and the examinations are rigid to a degree tliat insures the proficiency of the pupil before his advancement." The whole number of children taught is now about 320,000, under the care of about 4,150 instructors, at an annual cost exceeding \\ million dollars. "The at- tendance at school of children, between the ages of 8 and 14 years, is compulsory in the city by statute, and for the enforcement of this law, 12 Agents of Truancy are employed constantly in looking after delinquent children. These officers in- vestigate about 20,000 cases annually, and as a rule enforce the provisions of the law with little difficulty in these cases. In cases of extreme viciousness on the part of the truants, however, they are removed from their homes, and committed to one of the reformatory institutions." The school-buildings are distributed all over town, and many of them, packed into a group of tenements in some dark and dirty street, or wedged between tall business blocks, will seem very dreary abodes to visiting teachers accustomed to the light, air, and pleasant play-grounds sur- rounding rural schoolhouses; but the situation is a necessity of city-crowding, and strenuous efforts are made to gain as good ventilation and as much exercise between lessons as possible. Educators desirous of visiting the common schools will have no difficulty in satisfying their curiosity. The College of The City of New York is the city's " high-school," and is the successor of the "Free Academy" founded half a century ago. It is open free to all young men residing in this city, and prepared at the city schools, and it offers both a literary-classical and a scientific course, each four years in length; but during the first two years the studies are the same. There is also a mechani- cal course of instruction, and a post-graduate course in engineering. The total number of students approaches 900^ only one third of whom are engaged in classi- cal studies. This College occupies the large, turreted brick building on the south- eastern corner of 23d st. and Lexington av., which contains a cabinet of natural history, a library of 25,000 volumes and much laboratory apparatus. The Normal College, for young women, is a free institution sustained by the city, corresponding with the last mentioned, and intended especially for training girls to serve as teachers. It has an immense monastic-looking building in 69th St. between Fourth and Lexington avs., which cost $500,000. Most of its graduates enter the service of the city as teachers. The curriculum includes Latin, physics and chemistry, German, natural science, French, drawing, and music. The disci- pline is strict, and the control over the hundreds of young women daily assem- bled in the building is perfect. A model or training school is erected in the rear, in which pupil-teachers have an opportunity to supplement their theoretic studies with the practical. The morning exercises in the chapel at 9 o'clock are open to the public. Take Fifth av. stages or Fourth or Lexington av. horsecars to 69th St., or the Third Av. El. Ry. to 70th st. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 245 All of the above mentioned schools and institutions are free, and are under con- trol of the Board of Education. Columbia College. Columbia College — now a university — is the foremost institution of higher learnmg in New York, and one of the foremost in the United States. It began in 1754, as King's College, under a charter from the English crown and by aid of money raised mainly in England. The Trinity Church Corporation took an interest in it from the start, and presently made it a grant of land between what is now College Place and North River, from the sale or rental of which a large part of the University's income has since been derived. During the Revolution its sessions were interrupted and its buildings appropriated to the use of the troops. After that war the Legislature of the State made a grant of land, and reincorporated it as Columbia College — a name urged by Alexander Hamilton and John Jay — under a board of regents (afterward changed to 24 self-perpetuat- ing trustees, who had to begin again almost de iwto. The institution erected buildings on College Place and occupied them until 1857, when the site was sold and at once covered by business blocks and the College was moved to its present situation between 49th and 50th sts., between Madison av. and the Hudson River R. R. tunnel. (Fourth av. horsecars, or Sixth Av. El. Ry. to 50th st.) During the past five years several large and handsome buildings have replaced, or been added to the earlier halls, and the facilities for both general and special work greatly enlarged. No dormitories are attached, the students finding boarding places in the neighborhood, and studying at home or in the commodious Library. The President is Seth Low, installed in February, 1890 : and the faculty, which includes many names of world-wide reputation, numbers some 60 persons. The five " colleges " or departments of the University now established are: I. Arts. 2. Mines. 3. Law. 4. Political Science. 5. Medicine. The College of Arts, is the oldest and central department, and embraces the classical and literary curriculum usual in a collegiate course of four years. The School of Mines, which was founded by the late President Barnard, who regarded it with peculiar interest, now has the largest quarters upon the college block, and long ago become in fact a school of applied science, covering a wide range. Its latest addition is a course in electrical engineering. It has very complete laboratories and apparatus for the study and experimental illustration of all the manifold branches of natural science lectured upon ; and on the attic floor of the building visitors will find a geological museum, arranged by Prof. John S. Newberry, which is unsurpassed in the Union as a clear and comprehen- sive picture of the record of the rocks from primeval to modern times. Other objects of interest are there also. The course at the School of Mines lasts four 246 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. years, and the degrees conferred are those of Mining Engineer, Civil Engineer, Metallurgical Engineer, and Bachelor of Philosophy. P'or the degree of Doctor of Philosophy there is a post-graduate course of two years. The Law School has a new building on the campus, and a large attendance ; its course is two years. The School of Political Science is only lo years old, and offers a three- years course in the broadest scope of political economy, conferring the degree Doctor of Philosophy. The School of Medicine is better known as "The College of Piiysicians and Surgeons." It was formerly domiciled at the northeast corner of Fourth av. and 23d st. but now has a building on 60th st. between Ninth and Tenth avs. close to Roosevelt Hospital, in which (and in other hosj^itals; much of the instruction is given. The ground upon which this building stands was given, and the building partly erected, by the late Wm. H. Vanderbilt, at a cost of $500,000. In 1886 the Sloane Maternity Hospital, controlled by the College, was built and equipped by Mr. and Mrs. Wm. D. Sloane (the latter a daughter of Mr. Wm. H. Vanderbilt) at a cost of $250,000; and still more recently the four sons of Mr. Vanderbilt together gave the sum of $250,000 to establish a free clinic and dispensary, to be carried on in connection with the two other gifts', and known as the Vanderbilt Clinic. These royal gifts, amounting to a million dollars, place the College in the front rank for facilities, as it has long been for instruction. Students who have attended two full courses of lectures (the second here) and one course in comparative anatomy, are entitled to the degree M. D., after passing a satisfactory e.xamination. The Library will be, no doubt, the object of greatest interest to the general visitor at Columbia, since the buildings so crowd the campus as to preclude any- thing like the architectural display or space around Yale, Princeton and other institutions in small towns. The entrance is at the left, and close by the main gate on 49th St., whence a winding staircase of stone leads to the Library floor. The room is a large and lofty one, adorned by many portraits and completely surrounded by cases crowded with books, and made accessible high up by a light gallery. Any one may go to the shelves and take down the book he wants without any form of enquiry or permission; and there are a great number of small reading tables, a portion of which are reserved for regular students, whose names they bear, whenever they please to occupy them. Elaborate catalogues, in both book and card form, are available ; and altogether this is the most convenient and time- saving reference library in New York. The Barnard Annex is the name of a course of study for women, parallel with that of undergraduates in the School of Arts, of which some young ladies now avail themselves. The University now has 1800 students all told, the large part of whom come from the city and its neighborhood. It is prominent in intercollegiate contests, both intellectual and physical, and is especially strong in rowing, its boat clubs practicing on the Harlem. A new athletic field is about to be laid out on the EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 247 bank of the Hudson, at Washington Heights, and great things are promised in regard to it. University of the City of New Yorli. This institution is a stronger one than its comparatively narrow reputation would lead an outsider to suppose. Its main building is the castellated structure at the northeastern corner- of Washington Sq. which has given a name to Univer- sity Place, which runs before its door, in continuation of Wooster st. This build- ing was erected at 60 years ago, and contains lecture and recitation rooms, museum, society rooms, the library — very strong m legal works — and some bache- lor apartments. It is said to have been in a room in this building that Prof. S. F. B. Morse wrought out his invention of the electric recording telegraph; and in another room the first photographs of the human countenance ever made were taken by Prof. John W. Draper. The Department of Arts now has about 125 undergraduate students, besides several specialists in higher courses. The Law Department has about 100 students, and many names of prominence upon its list of professors. The most important of the departments, however, is the Faculty of Medicine, which occupies spacious buildings at the foot of E. 26th St. and contiguous to Bellevue Hospital (which see). These buildings (whose two amphitheatres, together, will seat 1000 pupils) are modern and admirably adapted to their pur])oses. Attached is the Loomis Laboratory, the cost of which ($100,- 000) was defrayed by an unknown friend on condition that his name be kept secret, and the laboratory be directed and named after Dr. Alfred Loomis. Much of the instruction is given in the wards and lecture rooms of Bellevue, and it is conse- quently of a very practical character. Drs. Valentine Mott, John W. Draper, Alfred Loomis, W. H. Thompson, Lewis A. Stimson and many other noted surgeons and physicians have been, or are, instructors there. Miscellaneous Institutions The Cooper Union, or Institute, is an enormous building at the head of the Bowery, where Fourth av. branches off to the left and Third av. to the right. It was erected by the late Peter Cooper in 1857 at a cost of ;j^630,ooo, and endowed with $300,000 for the support of the free reading-room and library. The purpose is philanthropic, and embraces day and evening schools of various kinds. Besides those which have a regular academic course, there are art schools for men and women, free school, of telegraphy and of type-writing for women, and other special departments. As the thousands of pupils who attend these classes are drawn almost entirely from the people who must work for a living, all of the 248 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. THE COOPER UNION. instruction tends strongly to the practical ; and in the art schools, especially, pupils are able to earn something while under instruction. The ac- commodations have proved inadequate to the demand*, and additions have been made upon the roof which have destroyed what little archi- tectural pretension the Union ever made. For an account of the great Reading-Room, see the next chapter ; and for the Hall, consult the chapter Amusements. The Fourth av.. Third av., and 8th st horse-cars pass the Cooper Union ; and the 9th st. station of the Third Av. EI. Ry. is one block distant. Theological Seminaries. — The most widely known of these is probably Union Seminary, filling the block on Fourth av. between 69th and 70th sts. with four handsome buildings. It is the principal school for ministers of the Presbyterian, church, and was founded in 1836; but its students may come from any evangelical denomination, so long as they can show a certificate of good church standing. The library is founded upon a gift of 13,000 volumes by L. Van Ess, and now con- tains about 60,000 books and nearly 50,000 pamphlets and manuscripts. As would be expected it is very rich in rare and ancient theological books and Mss., speci- mens of early Bibles, first printings and rare tracts. The catalogue contains nearly 1300 titles in the literature of the Reformation and over 4,200 in Church history and polity. Elocution and Sacred Music form parts of the three-years course, to the completion of which every student is pledged. The Protestant Episcopal Theological Seminary, beautifully situated on Chelsea Sq., between 20th and 21st sts., west of Ninth av., was founded in 1817, and is open to any student, generally qualified, who professes "attachment to the P. E. Church." The course lasts three years and no charge is made for tuition to those who take rooms and board in the buildings, some of which are new and enlarged. The library contains about 20,000 volumes. Schools of Medicine, Pharmacy, etc. — The medical schools attached to Columbia and other universities, and to Bellevue and other hospitals, have been mentioned under those titles. Three others, whose terms, etc., can be had upon EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 249 application, are : The Homeopathic Medical College, at Third av. and 23d st. •, the New York Post-Graduate Medical School, 226 E. 20th st., and the New York Polyclinic, 214 and 216 E. 34th st. The College of Pharmacy, at 209 E. 23d St., is an important school for those intendi'ng to be druggists, and one largely attended. Practical laboratory work in analytical chemistry and in botany are parts of the instruction, which is only open to those who have had at least four years' experi- ence in compounding prescriptions. Near by, at the corner of 23d st. and Second av., is the College of Dentistry which educates men for that specialty. The Veteri- nary College of the N. Y. State University is located in this city, and full courses of lectures and hospital clinics are given by it, at 141 W. 54th st. The N. Y. Col- lege of Veterinary Surgeons is another institution with the same object, located at 332 E. 27th St. It grants degrees, and enjoys the special patronage of the War Department. Roman Catholic Institutions. — Of these the leading college is St. Francis Xavier's, whose beautiful new building next to St. F. Xavier's Church, in West i6th St. near Sixth av., is one of the architectural ornaments of the city. This is a day college, in charge of the Jesuit Fathers, and numbers about 450 students, who come daily from their homes to the class-rooms. It has a reference library of 20,000 volumes and a small circulating library. Another able institution under charge of the same pedagogical order is St. John's College, at Fordham, a station on the Harlem R. R., at the extreme north-eastern edge of the city, where the spacious and beautiful grounds of Rose Hill surround the school. The late Cardinal McCloskey was its first president. Manhattan College is a third strong R. C. school, situated in Manhattanville, and reached by the cable cars. The great Academy of the Sacred Heart, one of the oldest and best known Catholic Schools for girls, is also in Manhattanville, in the domain of the Convent of the same name ; and another noted convent school is that of Mt. St. Vincent, on the Hudson River, above Riverdale, a branch of which is maintained by the Sisters of Charity in 17th st. between Fifth and Sixth avs. A long additional list of industrial, parochial. Collegiate-preparatory, national (as French, Italian, etc.) and commercial schools, young ladies' seminaries, riding academies, etc., etc., might be made, did the purposes of this book justify the par- ticulars. Libraries and Reading-Rooms. New York has no great Public Library like that of Boston or Cincinnati, though Brooklyn possesses an institution of this kind of which it has good reason to be proud. There are, nevertheless, several circulating libraries, one of immense ex- tent, which are practically free ; a number of subscription libraries, and several of the most valuable reference libraries in the Union. A stranger who desires to 250 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. consult a particular book is made welcome at most, or all, libraries, but should be careful not to abuse the privileges granted ; he is advised, moreover, to try the Astor or some other of the more public collections, before applying to semi-pri- vate subscription libraries, like the Mercantile. Those in which a sight-seer will find most interest are the Lenox, the Alitor, Columbia, and the great reading-room of the Cooper Union. The Lenox (Fifth av. and 70th st.) is a treasure-house of sculptures, paintings, ceramic and other kinds of artistic production (see Art); and of manuscripts, rare and curious specimens of early printing and binding, and costly and unusual editions, rather than a library in the ordinary sense. It is the gift to the city of the late James Lenox, a citizen of wealth and scholarly tastes, to whom New York is indebted in many other ways; and occupies a massive, temple-like building of white limestone, facing Central Park. The whole cost of ground, construction (over $1,000,000) and furnishing, was defrayed by him, and he also established an endowment for its perpetual maintenance. The building was begun in 1S70, but was not opened to the public until 1S77, and then admittance, even to scholars of distinction, was hedged about with so many difficulties that few students would take the trouble to force their way m The discontent with this exclusive management of a public benefaction was loudly expressed, and of late the doors have been open to free admission from n a. m. to 4 p. m., except on .Sunday and Monday. The effect of the former policy and the fact that no provision is made for readers, leaves the books (some 30,000 in num- ber) undisturbed on their shelves except by a few advanced scholars who are delving deeper than ordinary into their objects of inquiry. The Lenox is therefore regarded in New York as a museum, rather than a library; but as such every stu- dent of literature, art or history, should see it. Of the most precious books, a very large number are specimens of the first products of the typographic art, first editions. Bibles, Shakespeariana, and Americana. There are also copies of every known edition of Walton's " Angler," of Bunyan's " Pilgrim's Progress," and of nearly every known edition of Milton. A great number of exceedingly valuable Mss. and illuminated books on vellum are present. The collection of Bibles includes a perfect copy of the so-called "' Mazarin " Bible, the product of Guten- berg and Faust at Mainz, about 1445, the first printed book from movable types ; Fiist and Schoffer's Latin Bible, dated Mayence, 1462, the sixth book bearing a date and the first edition of the Bible having the name of the prmter and the place and date; a large folio Latin Bible printed by Koberger, Nuremberg, 1477, densely interlined with emendations, connnents, etc., in the handwritmg of Philip Melancthon ; and five copies of Eliot's Indian Bible, embracing every varia- tion of both editions, as well as two copies of his New Testament of 1661. Examples of these Bibles, and many of the curiosities further mentioned, are displayed in glass table-cases where they can be examined almost as well as if held in the hand. These cases contain specimens of the very first imprints in both Europe and America. There are many " block books," for example, representing the stage of printing before the invention of movable types, when, after the fashion of theChinese, a page was cut on a wooden block, among them two copies of the " I'.iblia Pauperum," a small folio of 40 leaves, the most celebrated of this class EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 251 of books, and supposed to have been executed about 1430. Caxton's press is rep- resented by no less than seven specimens, one of which is a fragment of Fevre's " Recuyell of the Histories of Troye," issued at Bruges about 1474, being the first booli printed in the English language. A copy of this has been sold for over $5,000. There are also copies of the " Doctrina Cristiana," one of the earliest products of the Roman Catholic press in Mexico — the first press on the American continent — and of the " Bay Psalm Book," the first book printed within the terri- tory of the United States, dated Cambridge, 1640. As to modern books the library is especially rich in bibliophilistic gems, fine bindings, and books of illustrations and the illustrative arts. Art galleries occupy the second and third floors, and contain about 150 pictures, including many of great note. Among these are a portrait, considered an original, of John Bunyan, one portrait of Washington by James Peale, three by Rembrandt Peale, and one (full length) by Gilbert Stuart. Here is Munkacsy's great picture " Blind Milton Dictating ' Paradise Lost,' " which was the masterpiece of the Paris Exposition of 1878, and has been so often engraved. There is one Andrea del Sarto, " Tobit and the Angel ; " one Delaroche, " The Field of Battle ; " one Gainsborough, called " A Romantic Woody Landscape ; " one Horace Vernet, " The Siege of Saragossa ; " several Wilkies, Verboeckhovens, Gilbert Stuarts, Reynoldses, and Leslies ; two Copleys, and a like number of Turners. The Tur- ners are "A Scene on the French Coast, with an English Ship of War stranded," painted in 1831, and " Staffa, Fingal's Cave," first exhibited in 1832, and bought from the artist for Mr. Lenox by Leslie in 1845. The Astor Library, like the Lenox, is the gift of a New York family of wealth — the first one, perhaps, that attained to that distinction ; but its character and management have always been entirely different, and it is the most popular consulting library in the city. It occupies a substantial building of brown-stone and brick in the Romanesque style, about 200 ft. front by 100 deep. It was founded by the will of John Jacob Astor, who died in 1848, leaving $400,000 for that purpose. His son, William B. Astor, added upward of $550,000 to this endowment ; and his grandson, the late John Jacob Astor, gave about $700,000 more. This library is open froln 9 a. m. until dark, but never in the evening ; and it is used by some 62,000 readers of all types annually, from the most casual idler in literature to the most learned and indefatigable investigators. Students in the higher schools and institutions of learning, and active journalists form a large class of its patrons. Within the entrance, on the ground floor, is a large hall, adorned by marble busts of Roman heroes copied from the antique. Here a warden requires you to leave in his care any books or packages you may be carrying, and also your cane or umbrella, and he gives you a check for them. Ascending the marble staircase to the second floor, you arrive in the lofty central hall, and find yourself surrounded by alcoves of books supported upon galleries, and rising to a great height on every side. Right and left arches open into spacious wings of similar structure, where long tables and scores of arm-chairs are set for readers. 252 GUIDE- TO NEW YORK CITY. In the main hall some tables are especially reserved for ladies, but there is no impropriety in their going into the other rooms if they please. No one is allowed to enter the alcoves without permission from the Librarian, who grants it only to special students. Any person, however, by writing upon the small blank furnished him the titles and shelf-numbers of the books he wants, and his name and address, can have the use during the day of as many books as he needs. No books are ever lent out of the building. Volumes of printed catalogues lie near the office desks, and also an admirable card catalogue ; and you should look up in one or the other of these the name of each book asked for, in order to put upon your card the Library's " shelf-number," which will be found written on the catalogue margin, opposite each title. Having handed in your slip, you wait until the book is delivered to you. The Astor Library is well lighted through the roof, is well- warmed and ventilated, toilet-rooms are attached, and altogether is one of the pleasantest places for study in the country. The librarian and his assistants are not only learned but full of kindness in assisting readers ; and they give out about 180,000 volumes each year, — three fourths of the total number of books now pos- sessed by the Astor. The total capacity of the upper halls is about 300,000, but there is storage for 200,000 more on the ground door. Among the treasures are rare Mss. in Greek and Latin, given by Mr. Astor, and the elephantine volume, of chants used at the coronation of the French kings for many years, superbly illu- minated with vignettes by well-known early French artists. These books will be shown by the librarian on application, together with many other literary antiqui- ties. The Cooper Union Library and Reading Room, (three minutes walk from the Astor Library) forms one of the strongest features of that great institution {q. v.), and one which Mr. Cooper felt to be so important that he endowed it with a fund of $300,000. It occupies an immense room on the third floor, the walls of which are lined with shelves of books, each in a jacket of strong paper. Long tables are supplied for readers of books and magazines, which are given out from a desk, on deposit of the metal check which everyone who enters must accept and must return when he leaves the room. The library contains about 20,000 vol- umes, principally practical and instructive ; and is noted as the possessor of a complete set of both the old and new series of Patent Office reports, which are consulted yearly by almost 2,000 persons. Each volume has been carefully indexed, making them invaluable for reference. The library is open in the even- ing and then is crowded by a class of readers who have no time during the day to spend in gathering information or in taking intellectual amusement. More interesting to the stranger, however, will be the sight of the long tables and racks filled with newspapers and periodicals and pored over by crowds of men and boys, generally poorly dressed, often dirty, but all orderly, quiet, and eager to read. This is one of the sights of the citv. and the visitor will easily accept the statement that between 450 and 460 newspapers and periodicals are taken in here. The only other really large public reading-room in the city is that at the Y. M. C. A. building. EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 253 Few of the other libraries in the city will repay a visit by the casual observer. The most important lending libraries are the Apprentices', the Mercantile and the Free Circulating. The Apprentices', 18 W. i6th st., takes its name from its orig- inal purpose, which was to furnish instructive reading for mechanics' apprentices. It was founded in 1820, but not until 1862 were its privileges extended to girls employed in mechanical services. Latterly its doors have been widened, until now any person who can furnish a recommendation signed by a citizen of stability may draw books freely, renewing his application from year to year, without charge. Tliere are now.over 80,000 volumes, which circulate rapidly and'widely. The Free Circulating Library is less than ten years old, but circulates about 420,000 volumes annually. Its head-ofifice is in a building at 49 Bond St., erected for it by subscription and costing $35,000. In 1884 a branch, intended for German readers mainly, was built by the late Oswald Ottendorfer, editor of the Staats-Zeitmig, at 135 Second av. Another branch in 42d St., near Broadway, is due to the liberality of Miss Catharine Wolfe Bruce ; and a third, opened in 1888 in Jackson Square (the Scotch quarter of the city), was built by George W. Vanderbilt. These build- ings are each admirable examples of library architecture, and the system promises to grow into an affair of great importance. The Mercantile Library occupies rooms in its new building at Lafayette Place and 8th st., and owns over 200,000 volumes of general interest, new books being added as fast as issued. The ordinary fee is $5 annually, or $3 for six months. The public are admitted only to the outer office, which contains nothing to inter- est the sightseer. The upper part of the city profits by the old Harlem Library, founded in 1825 and connected with much interesting local history; it is at 2238 Third av. between 121st and I22d sts. Other libraries which might be added to this list would interest specialists only and need not be expatiated upon this book, except to say that a /rtze/ library I'S, open to public inspection in Rooms 1 16-122, Post Office Building. Besides more than 30,000 legal works, this library contains portraits of Thomas Addis Emmet, Chancellor Kent, and Judge Greene C. Bron- son ; and busts of James T. Brady and John Anthon. Among the books are many very scarce copies of law reports; a few books belonging to Alexander Hamilton, and containing numerous entries in his handwriting ; a note-book of Lord Hard- wicke ; and the cases and opinions of Charles O'Conor. Old or second-hand book shops abound in New York, though few are as inter- esting places as those of London, or even of Boston and Philadelphia. The largest is Leggatt's, in Chambers St., near Church. There are several along Nassau St., or just around the corner from that narrow and crowded thoroughfare, but the most picturesque one has disappeared. Clark's, 34 Park PI. (upstairs), is worth a visit by a searcher for old books and magazines. Fourth av., Aster Place, and Broadway between the Cooper Union and Union sq., has several 254 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. antique book shops, the sign of which is the usual stall of very cheap specimens outside the door ; and the lower end of Sixth av. has two or three, while stores of a somewhat higher grade, mingling imported rarities and modern books of a quaint kind with the second-hand lot, abound in Astor Place, and in Broadway near there, where many well-known publishing firms reside. All importing book- sellers offer rare and expensive art prints and editions of foreign and early works at second hand ; but with some it is a specialty to do so, as is well known to collectors. At such stores the stranger may see books and prints of rare and beautiful workmanship; mediaeval rtianuscripts, illuminated in gold and colors before the ■invention of printing ; historical bindings from the libraries of monarchs and celebrated personages of past ages ; blackletters and books printed in the first decades of typography ; Aldines and Elzevirs ; superb volumes of great rarity encased in bindings of Trautz-Bauzonnet, Chambolle-Duru, David, Lortic and other famous modern binders ; eighteenth century illustrated works emanating from the presses of Paris during the reigns of Louis XVth and XVIth, with limnings of the artists who designed for the Regent d'Orleans and the Farmers General. Miniatures and curios, mezzotints, line engravings and etchings in the rarest states, are also freely exhibited, and portraits of famous persons. It is a curious fact that American book collectors reject much that is acceptable to Europe. There was a time when it was 'believed in Euroj^e that anything could be sold to American collectors, but that time has passed forever. " The process of book collecting," to quote Mr. Charles Sotheran, who is an authority on all bibliographical matters, " is cumulative, and education advances with practice. Men's ideas expand as their knowledge amplifies itself, and he who begins a collection upon one basis of quality rarely terminates his labors until his entire library has been revised and his whole method of collection altered for the better. . . . The treasures demanded by the American bibliophile must be sought for at the greatest cost of time and trouble. They are found in the most unexpected places and in the oddest ways. Europe is the mine from which they must be exhumed for the American collector. In this country books are bought to be kept. In the older country those who have gathered them, by the accretions of generations, are commencing to part with them to satisfy the extravagances of the present. . . . And though America demands the very best that Europe can supply, competition is not mad enough to render the extravagant prices of Europe possible." XIV. ART AND ARCHITECTURE. Art Galleries. INE arts have made a very notable advance in New York during the last few years, in the direction of exhibition and general popu- larity, not only, but toward a higher standard of work and more thorough and localized methods of teaching. The one really great public gallery of the city is that of the ' Metropolitan Museum of Art, which is described in the general account of that institution (pp. 120-142) The Lenox Library has a small gallery of fine pictures open daily; and the N. Y. Historical Society, Second av. and nth St., possesses many portraits, examples of the Dutch masters and pieces of statuary, to which visitors are admitted by card from a meniljer of the society. Portraits of departed statesmen adorn the walls of the Governor's Room in the City Hall ; and portraits of old merchants hang about the hall of the Chamber of Commerce. Many art societies, schools and clubs exist, several of which give exhibitions at stated Intervals. The oldest and fore- most of these institutions is the National Academy of Design. — Its handsome building at the corner of Fourth av. and 23d st. is sure to attract attention. It is built of gray and white marble and bluestone, mingled in a zigzag pattern, copied, as is the general form, from a Venetian palace. A double flight of steps leads to the main entrance, and with its carved balustrades and the drinking fountain beneath the balcony, forms a striking feature of the general effect, The lower floors are devoted to offices, ^56 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. lecture-rooms, etc., but the third story, lighted through a glazed roof, consists of a series of galleries. These are approached from the entrance by a broad staircase, which," on the occasion of an exhibition or reception, is always made beautiful by growing plants and artistic decorations. The corporation consists of the "National Academicians" (N. A.), who fill vacancies in their ranks by election from a subordinate body of chosen artists called " Associates of the National Academy " (A. N. A.). To become a member of either of these bodies is regarded among artists as a high recognition of profes- sional merit. The Academy supports free schools in drawing and painting, open to all applicants of either sex who can and will conform to the simple requirements for admission. These schools are in session from October until May, and medals are given for proficiency. THE NATIONAL ACADEMY OF DESIGN. The Academy holds an exhibition of new paintings in the early spring of each year, and several prizes, ranging from $ioo to $300 are distributed. During the first two days of the exhibitions, which are known as " varnishing day " and " pri- vate view," or " buyers day," admission can only be obtained by a card of invita- tion from the secretary, and these are eagerly sought for. During the succeeding weeks the gallery is open to the public from 9 a. m. until 10 j). m. upon payment of an admission fee of 25 cts. There is also an exhibition in the fall, where work less ambitious, but often none the less interesting, is shown to the public. The Water Color Society is closely allied to the Academy of Design. It has no rooms, but the secretary is Mr. C. Harry Eaton, 52 E. 23d st. The object of this society is the advancement of painting in water-colors, and it holds an annu^] ART ANE ARCHITECTURE. 257 exhibition in the Academy o£ Design of the work of its resident members, which occurs in late January or early February, and forms one of the most interesting and important art-events of the year. In connection with this exhibition there is often a display of the year's results by members of the Etching Club, whose mem- bers are largely men on the lists of the Academy and the Water Color Society. The Centennial Exhibition gave a great impetus to the fine arts in this country, which has been duly manifested in New York, where a new spirit has gradually obtained control It has completely revolutionized architecture and it has sent our younger painters and sculptors to study in the schools of Europe. Many have already come back, and others are returning now, or will soon do so, imbued with the tea-chings of the great masters. The result of all this has been the establishment in this city within the last fif- teen years of a number of promising art societies in addition to these just men- tioned, each devoted to its own branch of art work, but all actuated by this same modern .spirit. Five of these societies form a group, which have combined their forces into a " Fine Arts Society," intended to be a working institution, as distin-^ guished from a club of painters. It has begun to erect a handsome building on W. z-]\.\\ St., adapted to exhibitions, schools, and all other needs. It is said that this union will bring together 500 men and women, each in his or her own depart- ment of work and retaining allegiance to the society which he helped to build up. Not counting students, there are about 300 artists in active service in New York, most of whom have had the advantage of foreign study. Their average age is not far from thirtv-five. Of the five societies above alluded to the first place belongs to The Society of American Artists, founded in 1S77 by some of the younger men of that time who were not in accord with the policy of the National Academy and thought there was room for a second institution. It now has over 100 members. The secretary is Mr. Wm. A. Coffin, 138 W. 55th st. Its annual exhibition comes in May (at the Fifth Avenue Art Galleries, 366 Fifth av.,'near 35th st.) and both the public and the critics pay quite as much heed to it as to that of the old Academy. The Art Students' League dates from 1875, and is devoted to instruction in all branches of the graphic arts. Students are not entitled to membership in this institution until they have studied there for two years, and then presented works showing the requisite proficiency. Of such members there are now about 175. The professors of the Art Students' League are, without exception, members of the Society of American Artists ; and classes are held in the rooms at 143 E. 23d St. There is nothing at the school to attract the general visitor, but now and then receptions and exhibitions of work are given, which have an elegantly bohemian air very charming to those who enjoy the atmosphere of the studio. Almost next door to the League is the Art Guild, an organization of artists, mostly members 258 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. of the societies already mentioned, banded for the purpose of properly conducting the sale and exhibition of their works throughout the country. Several Clubs of Artists are established, and should be mentioned, though ad- mission to their rooms is only by invitation. Such are the Salmagundi, which is the strongest of all, has rooms in 22d st. near Sixth av. and gives an annual exhibition of sketches of great interest ; the Pai)iters in Pastel, the Tile Club whose excursions have formed the basis for several illustrated magazine articles, and whose cozy rooms are at 58^ W. loth St., where (as with the others) gay little receptions are given ; the Kit-Kat Club, corner University PI. and nth st., which like the others combines social pleasure with hard work ; the revived Palette Club and the Architectural League, the latter devoted to architectural design, mural decoration, work in stained glass, etc. An illustrated article upon this League in The Cetittc}y tor March, 1883, may be referred to with profit. Other art-societies of less con sequence may be found. The Artist's Fund is a beneficent scheme for the relief of widows and orphans of dead artists, sustained by each member contributmg annually a painting worth at least $100 or its equivalent in money. Another phase is found in the Society of Decorative Art at 28 E. 21st st. whose object is to foster a knowledge of decorative art among women, and their fram- ing in artistic industries. It aims (i) To induce art workers to master thoroughly the details of one kind of decoration, that they may make for themselves a reputation of commercial value. (2) To assist those who have worked unsuccessfully in choosing some practical and popular direction for their lal^or. (3) To open classes in various kinds of decorative work. (4) To dispose, by orders in advance and by sale of decorative pottery, china, tiles, cabinet work, carvings, draperies, embroideries, and other articles of household art. (5) To develop the art of needlework and assist in adapting it to the requirements of housefurnishing and decoration. The society has 4,000 contributors, and sells articles accepted by its committee at a commission of ten per cent. It has been of great service to educated women who wish or need to turn their talents to pecuniary account and its salesroom at 28 J2. 2ist St. is well worth examination by anyone in search of artistic novelties. The Associated Artists at 215 E. 23d st. belong in the same category. Art Schools in New York are sustained by the Metropolitan Museum, the Cooper Union (which see), the National Academy, the Art Students' League, the Sharp Art School (formerly Gotham Art Students), 744 Broadway, Stimpson's Institute for Artist-Artisans, 140 w. 23d St., the Harlem Art Association, 149 E. 125th St. and other corporations. There are purely private teachers in abundance, including many well-known artists, who receive pupils at their studios. Drawing is now taught compulsorily in the public schools and in the Normal School with great success. In Brooklyn there are the Art Guild, the Adelphi Art Academy, and the Brooklyn Institute Art Schools. Studios are objects of great interest to visitors interested in art, and many de- ART AND ARCHITECTURE. 259 lightful days may be spent by such persons in making the round of New York ateliers. Few artists will shut their doors against a courteous and appreciative visitor, even if he brings his own introduction, but they do not welcome mere curiosity-mongers, nor toplofty persons nor bores. Some artists have a special reception day, usually known to the janitor of the building. The studios are vv^el! scattered, but are most numerous in W. 14th st., E. 23d St., and near Washing- ton sq., especially in the picturesque old University building, whose attic rooms were made by throwing a floor across what was once the chapel, just under the groined roof. The dark old beams of the arches and the gothic windows made ideal workrooms for those who cared more for romantic furnishing than for good light in their studios. Latterly several buildings have been designed, especially for these exacting tenants, and are kept filled with them, many artists dwelling as well as working in their suite of rooms. Such buildings are "The Studio " at 51 W. loth St., between Fifth and Sixth avs. the Y. M. C. A. (top floor). Fourth av. and 23d St.; the "Fourth Av. Studio Building," Fourth av. and 25th St.; the "Sherwood," Sixth av. and 57th st. ; the "Rembrandt," in W. 57th, near Seventh av. ; the " Holbein," in W. 55th St., near Sixth av.; and the upper floors of 788 Broadway. Many of the New York studios are exquisitely decorated and fur- nished, as can be seen by referring to the pictures in an article upon them in The Cosmopolitan (magazine) for May, 1889. Other recent magazine articles, referring to this subject, are : "American Etchers in New York," and " Artists' Models in New York," both in The Century for February, 1883; "Recent Architecture in America," The Century, July and August, 1884, and February, 1886, all illustrated. The purely commercial side of art in New York has much to interest one. At the galleries of the American Art Association, 6 E. 23d st., two exhibitions and sales are held spring and autumn, and often at other times there are special exhibitions of extreme interest, as when Verestchagin showed his collection there in the spring of 1889. The principal art dealers have long been accustomed to add to the pleasures of the public by tht owing open their collections of modern paintings, chiefly foreign, which are well worth examination. Auctions of pictures are rarely worth attending, unless some well-known private collection is to be disposed of. The splendid private gallery of Mr. W. K. Vanderbilt, which is unexcelled in" this country, and by few private collections in Europe, has often been opened to strangers asking cards of admission. Other private galleries are those of Mr. Henry G. Marquand, Mr. August Belmont, Mr. G. I. Seney, Mr. Wm. Rockefeller, Mr. Wm. Schaus, Mr. Thos. B. Clarke, and Mr. Edward D. Adams. Many of the pictures once belonging to these and other citizens have been presented, or loaned, to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Loan and sale exhibitions occur at several prominent clubs annually, notably at the Union League and I,otos. XV. CLUBS AND SOCIETIES. Social Clubs. N a book of this character the subject of social clubs need not consume mucli space, since without an invitation from a member nothing more than the outside of the club-houses can be seen by a stranger. In many cases, indeed, there is little to reward curiosity inside : while some, like the Union League, and others of the older and more prominent class, have splendid rooms, filled with treasures of art as well as all the appliances of comfort and luxury which the modern upholsterer, decorator and cook are able to supply. Clubs have increased in numbers and expanded in membership and importance with the growth of the city, and will continue to do so. Several new and magnificent houses are about to be built in both New York and Brooklyn, and those down- town are moving to new quarters toward the Park. Of the social clubs the Union League is among the foremost, and its grand house, at the corner of Fifth av. and 39th St., is one of the ornaments of the city. This club grew out of an association of gentlemen of the Republican party, who in 1863 banded together for the support of that party and the prosecution of the Civil War to a successful issue. Its political character has waned with advancing years and altered circumstances until it is now in the background. It has 1500 mem- bers, including the foremost men of this part of the country. The present struct- ure, which cost complete about $400,000, was designed especially for the varied uses of the club, and contains as an unusual feature a large art gallery (used also for the general meetings of the club), where extraordinary loan exhibitions are occasionally given, as well as receptions and entertainments of a grand character. The interior decorations of the house (by La Farge, Louis Tiffany and Franklin Smith) are the admiration of connoisseurs, — especially in the oak-paneled dining- CLUBS AND SOCIETIES. 261 room. This club gives monthly receptions, at which new American pictures and foreign pictures loaned by dealers and private collectors are exhibited. Admission to these receptions is by card obtainable from members, and for ladies between 12 m. and 3 p. m. the day following the reception. A ladies' reception is given annually, and is one of the most brilliant social events of the season. Admission to the club after election, costs $300 and the annual dues are $75. An illustrated article in The Century for March, 1882, should be con- sulted. The Manhattan Club represents, in a general way, the other (Democratic) side of the political arena, and was founded in 1865. It long occupied an old man- sion on the southwest corner of Fifth av. and 15th st.', but has recently moved into a V&f'^^V- Tm Mrs. A. T. Stewart, at Fifth '" *" ""^ av. and 34th st., which has been remodeled into the largest, and perhaps the most elaborately adorned club-house in the world. The •cuisine of this club is celebrated among good-livers. The Union Club, at Fifth av. and 21st st (northwest corner), was the first one in the city (and, for that matter, in the country) which was formed upon English models and was a real club as the term is now understood. It was founded in 1836, and had a succession of down-town resting places until 1855, when it moved into its present lu.Kurious house. This club has consisted from the very first of the " social magnates of New York : " the Astors, Edgars, Schuylers, Suydams, Lydigs, Le Roys and Griswolds were among its early supporters. The sons and grandsons of these men are still to be found on the rolls, but as each new element of commercial and social life was added to the growing city it was received by this gay and liberal organization, which has remained a true expression of the prosper- ous life of the metropolis, growing along the same lines as the city has changed and advanced. It is a strong, wealthy, spirited crowd of well-groomed, well-fed gen- marble house built and oc- cupied by the late Mr. and THE UNION LEAGUE CLUB. 262 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. tlemen, who find the carpet on their library lasts much longer than that on their card-room, and take more pride in their cook than in their art-committee. Out of this sprang, some years ago, a club of the jetinesse doree familiarly known as the Union Junior, but whose proper name is the Calumet, which occupies a beautiful house on the northeast corner of Fifth av. and 29th st. The Century Club enjoys a well-established reputation for dignity and scholarly character, and its library consists mainly of works of art. Its old house is at 109 E. 15th, but a new building, with an imposing front, and to approach $200,000 in cost, is about to be erected at Fifth av. and 43d st. Monthly meetings of a literary sort, are held from September until June, to which strangers are admitted by a card from a member ; but the peculiar character of this remarkable club is steadily changing to a more generally social type. This is ascribable to several causes — to the death of most of the early Centu- rions ; to the establishment of similar associations, like the Tile, Etching, Authors' and Fellowcraft clubs, many of whose members belong to it; to the admission of stockbrokers and business men whose sympathy with art and litera- ture is more nominal than real. One thing, however, the Century will not be likely to show any weakness for, as so many clubs have done, and that is for men simply rich. A number of the Centurions are rich, necessarily, but they had something else than riches to commend them to this coterie, which may be said still to cherish an earnest and wholesome prejudice against all plutocrats. The opposite sentiment seems to rule in the Knickerbocker, which is composed mainly of rich men who love and practice such sports as coaching, polo, fox- hunting and the like. Its club-house is a costly structure at Fifth av. and 32d st. In the St. Nicholas Club, 386 Fifth av., corner 37th St., is found an ultra-aristo- cratic organization, to which only the " Knickerbockers " are eligible,— defined in this case to be descendants of persons resident in New York prior to 1785. Their club-house was once the home of Gov. E. D. Morgan. The St. Nicholas Society, which is partly benevolent and partly historical in its object, and which gives a banquet once a year where great orators are always heard, is wholly separate. The New York Club, at Fifth av. and 35th st. (southwest corner), has re- modeled into an elegant modern home the old mansion of the Astorfamily, andisa long-established and fashionable organization. The Lotos Club possesses an unostentatious mansion opposite the Union Club, on the northeast corner of Fifth av. and 21st st. Its membership is mainly composed of literary men, actors, artists, and professional men. Monthly art re- ceptions are held during the winter, when some good pictures by American artists are usually shown ; and a " ladies' day " each month, when music and recitations are added. If you are offered a card to one of the "Saturday Nights," take it and go. Somewhat similar to this is the University Club, open only to those who have taken a collegiate course, which occupies the old home of the Union League Club, CLUBS AND SOCIETIES. 263 at Madison av. and E. 26th St., facing Madison sq. The foinier theatre having been remodeled, this club now has the most spacious dining-room of them all ; and it is the settled home of many bachelors. The Players is a club of actors of the highest order, whose beautifully fitted home, at 16 Gramercy Park (116 E. 20th st.), was the gift, complete, of Mr. Edwin Booth, the great tragedian, who makes his home there. " It was formally opened on New Year's eve, 18S8. On the first floor is a billiard-room and the various ofiices ; the reading-room, lounging-room, and grill-room are upon the second story, and the third contains the library. This is a priceless collection of dramatic lore, the playbills gathered by Augustine Daly, the libraries of Edwin Booth and Lawrence Barrett, and books from many others." Another actors' club, of a more Bohemian kind, is The Lambs. The Progress is a club of Hebrew-Americans, which has just completed a conspicuous and elegant Florentine building at Fifth av. and 63d St., that cost $500,000, is magnificently furnished, and contains the largest ball-room in the city. The German is another old club, about to erect a new building on 58th st. near Si.xth av. Its members are the wealthiest Germans of New York and vicinity. Another strong German club is the Harmonie, whose elegant home is conspicuous at 45 W. 42d St., facing Bryant sq. The Harlem, the Merchants', the Down Town (new building at the corner of Pine and Cedar sts.) and several others need no particular mention. Special in their character, are the Delta Kappa Epsilon (535 Fifth av.), the Psi Upsilon [■},}, W. 42d st.), and the Delta Psi (29 E. 28th), none of which are open to any except to members of these college secret societies ; the Fellowcraft, Aldine and Authors' clubs, formed by literary workers for the most part (for the "Authors'" see Harper''s Magazine, Nov. 1886); the Press Club, with rooms at 150 Nassau St.; the Grolier Club of bibliophiles; the Whist, Fencer's and Chess clubs; the Ohio Society, at 236 Fifth av. ; the Harvard Club (for alumni) at 11 \V. 22d ; the Electric Club, 17 E. 21st; the Lawyer's Club, in the Equitable Building, and the art, musical and sporting clubs, mentioned in the chapters devoted to those topics. Woman's clubs have been started from time to time, but have not ])rospered, as a rule. Sorosis is a society of women for intellectual and artistic culture, which meets monthly at Delmonico's for " a feast of reason and a flow of soul " besides a remarkably good dinner; and once a year it holds a reception of a similar character to which a limited number of gentlemen are invited. More lately there has been started an association of some 50 ladies, which is more nearly a " club " than anything established hitherto. It is called the Woman's Univer- sity Club, and has rooms on Madison av. where receptions are given on Satur- days. 264 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. " Unlike the typical woinaii's club, it is devoted to the discussion of no occult theories and the consideration of no crying evils, but is purely of a social nature. .The Saturday afternoon receptions are informal and delightful, the chief entertain- ment being the woman's favorite beverage, which cheers but not inebriates and is prepared before the open fire by a charming woman in a dainty manner. The rooms have received some additions of pictures, and the nucleus of a library is en- closed in a very pretty bookcase. The humble beginning of the club augurs well for its ultimate success." Reminiscent. — A capital sketch of clubs and club life in old and in modern New York was furnished by Mr. Henry L. Nelson as a supplement to Harper's Weekly, for March 15, 1890, from which the following is quoted and condensed : " The first clubs of New York were such as Dr. Johnson organized and loved, with a difference. The pleasure of the Johnson club was its talk; that of the New York club was its dinner. The old New Yorkers deceived themselves into believing that they were intellectual descendants of Shakespeare and Ben Johnson, of Sam Johnson, Garrick, Goldsmith, and Reynolds, because they met in taverns at stated and regular times, but every one who has read William Irving's poetry in Salmagundi knows better. " This, however, is not true of the first club of the city, the lawyers' Moot Club, at which cases were tried and questions of law argued. It was founded in 1775, and among its members were John Jay, Gouverneur Morris, and Stephen Ue Lancey. They lived in the day when the literature of their profession was mak- ing. "In 1792 the Drone Club was founded as a sbcial and literary organization. Afterward came the Kraut Club, which met annually for a dinner; the Turtle Club; the Bread and Cheese Club, founded by James Fenimore Cooper in 1824. All of them were on the Johnsonian model. There was a dash of literary flavor in them, at a time when every scribbler for the somewhat thin and altogether sub- servient press was counted a man of letters. Very humble chroniclers of the doings of the times were those scribblers who, at public dinners, when their lords, the Aldermen, fed themselves, stood in the hallway, and noted the elegant com- pany, and smelled the savory dishes as they were borne by them. When they got inside their back rooms on club nights, however, they were the true successors of the wits of the Queen Anne Coffee-house and the clubs of the great lexicog- rapher. . . . " Tlif most famous of the dinner-giving organizations was the Hone Club, founded in 1836, and named for Mayor Philip Hone. Its members were among the first merchants of the city, and were all admirers of Daniel Webster. Philip Hone lived in a fine house directly opposite the City Hall Park, and afterward at the corner of Broadway and Great Jones St. He was an admirable specimen of his class — rich, generous, and hospitable. When he was Mayor his entertainments to distinguished visitors were so lavish that his friends insisted on relieving him of part of his assumed burdens. Therefore the Hone Club was established. Din- ners were given bv the members in turn at their own houses, and it was under- stood that on the days when the great Daniel looked in upon the town, the mem- ber whose turn it was should give his dinner then. Those were happy days for Webster and for the merchant princes who feasted him, for he had the noble products of a great ^V/^' and the rich contents of a fine cellar, while the others enjoyed the stimulating presence of the lion of his day. Sometimes Irving was a CLUBS AND SOCIETIES. 265 guest of the Hone Club — modest Mr. Irving, who ran* away from public dinners for fear he might be called upon for a speech, and whose happiest after-dinner effort was his confession that he had forgotten the lines of his prepared address to Charles Dickens, liut the sparkle of New York life in the first half of tJie century did not bubble up in literature and in literary conversation. Boston was much better off in that respect, as it is to-day. There were law, theology, and com- merce; and, for pleasure, eating, drinking, dancing, and the theaLie." Secret Orders. All, probably, of the secret orders and societies in the United States have representatives in New York and for many it is the American headquarters. Several of these stand before the public more in a social aspect, or otherwise, than on account of any secrecy in their proceedings, and are mentioned elsewhere, e.g. the "Greek letter societies" of collegians, above; the Turn Verein, under Amusements; the Loyal Legion under Military, etc. A long list of others may be found mentioned under Charities, while many are not deemed of sufficient interest to the average stranger in town to be given here at all, since their names and addresses appear in Trow's Directory. The orders of Free Masonry and Odd- Fellows remain for special notice. Free Masonry. — The Brothers of the Mystic Tie, who " meet upon the level and part upon the square " have as a rule to be sought for in out-of-the-way halls, yet much can be seen and learned about the order in its semi-public homes. Masonic Tcviplc, at Sixth av. and 23d st. is the headquarters of the Grand Lodge of New York State. It is a lofty granite building, at whose entrance are two massive symbolical pillars of bronze. Entering through a portico of coui)led Doric columns we pass by a ]iair of sphinxes, guarding the inner doors, and at the summit of a flight of marble steps meet the famous statue of Secrecy, a Roman matron with fingers warningly placed upon her lips. On the left of the first floor are the offices of the Grand Secretary and other Grand dignitaries of the Blue lodges. On the right is the large hall of the Grand Lodge of the State which meets annually in June. The remainder of the year the room is available for assemblies, lectures, preaching, etc. Scattered through the corridors on the upper floors will be noticed cases of Masonic curiosities, such as charters, patents, aprons, scarves, jewels, swords, trowels, etc., of historical value. These, and the portraits and liusts of Grand Masters, form a part of the n^useum attached to the Grand Lodge library. This notable collection of Masonic literature is open to all visitors between 3.30 and 10.30 p. m. The lodge-rooms, Royal Arch chapters, and asylums of Knights Templar on the upper floors, where the subordinate bodies meet, are open to the ]iublic, and should be inspected. They are not only elegantly decorated and fur- nished but each room is built and finished in a different style of architecture. The most striking are the Chapter room, a fac-simile of an Egyptian tomb or tem- ple, and the Commandery room or asylum on the top floor, which represents the choir of a Gothic cathedral. The Grand Council of Royal and Select Masters meets annually there on the first Tuesday of September, it and the Grand I^odge being the only Grand bodie§ which assemble in this city regularly every year, 266 GUIDE rO NEW YORK CITY. Masonic hall is now paid-for, and is the property of the Blue lodges. The Gei- man Masons have a building of their own overlooking Stuyvesant sq. The high- grade or Scottish Rite Masons, who control the fourth to the thirty-third degrees, are divided into different organizations — Sublime Princes of the Royal Secret, Rose-Croix, Princes of Jerusalem, etc. Those of the Supreme Grand Council of the United States, thirty-third and last degree, — as founded by Joseph Cerneau at New York in 1807, of which both Lafayette and DeWitt Clinton were Sovereign Grand Commanders — meet in a big lodge room over Koster & Bial's on 23d st. The Supreme Grand Council of the Northern Jurisdiction meets at Scottish Rite Hall, Madison av. and 29th st. Two other organizations more or less affiliated with the Masonic Order, viz, the Sheikhs of the Kaaba, and the Nobles of the Mystic Shrine, hold their "khana- keens " it is believed at the Masonic Temple and elsewhere. Much mystery, how- ever, conceals their ceremonies and movements, as also those of many associate orders to which Freemasons alone are admitted, such as the Pilgrim of the Palm and Shell, the Ancient and Primitive, Swedenborg, Mizraim and Memjihis Rites, as well as the Eastern Star lodges in which only the wives, sisters, and daughters of Blue Lodge Masons can be initiated. Here, however, we are trenching upon secrets that the brothers and sisters "hele, conceal and never reveal. So mote it be!" Odd-Fello'ws. — "There are over 100 lodges of the, Independent Order of Odd Fellows in New York citv, and the headquarters of these is Odd-Fellows' Hall, at the southeast corner of Grand and Centre sts. This building is about 100 ft. square, and has several large rooms decorated in various styles of architecture. At the time it was built — about a quarter of a century ago — it was the most impos- ing structure in that part of the city, and even at present its squat, brown dome, and fluted columns make it a noticeable object. Lodges meet here nightly." Scientific and Learned Societies. Learned men, especially if specialists, will find in New York many societies and clubs devoted to scientific, medical, and other learned investigations; but these persons will be pretty likely to know in advance of their coming where to find the particular ones they are in search of, and the Directory may be examined for addresses. The widest interest doubtless attaches to the New York Histori- cal Society at the corner of Second av. and E. nth St., collections of which have already been described (see Libraries and Art). Monthly meetings are held during the cool months, at which historical essays are read. A fund is in hand for the erection of a ivew and more adequate building. The object of this society (founded, 1804) is to investigate matters of local his< CLUBS AND SOCIETIES. 267 tory and preserve records and relics illustrating it. The leading citizens of that date were active in forwarding its interests, particularly Mr. Johli Pintard, who contemplated a great and comprehensive museum, library and art collection, as well as a historical and genealogical society. His valuable collection of books and Ms. notes was subsequently acquired by the society. Besides the library of 70,000 volumes, the building contains the interesting Nineveh marbles, presented by James Leno.x, and the Abbot collection of Egyptian antiquities, consisting of some 1,200 objects. "The gallery of art is upon the fourth floor, and, except- ing the Metropolitan museum of art, comprises, perhaps, the largest permanent collection in America at the present time of valuable sculptures, ancient and modern paintings by renowned masters, and authentic portraits of persons distin- guished in history. It contains 800 pictures and 59 pieces of sculpture, and includes the collections of the late Luman Reed, the New York Gallery of Fine Arts, the American Art Union, the famous ' Bryan Gallery ' collected and pre- sented to the society by the lamented and eminent virtuoso. Thomas |. Bryan, and the collection formed by the late Louis Durr. In all its departments the col- lections are increasing so rapidly that the society is taking measures to provide a larger repository for them in a more central location." The New York Academy of Sciences, (founded in 1817 as the N. Y. Lyceum of Natural History) still holds weekly meetings in Hamilton Hall, Columbia College, and publishes " transactions." It has a library, deposited in the library of Columbia, which is especially rich in sets of the serial publications of foreign scientific societies : and its studies are mainly in geology and biology. Lectures are given each winter (free admission by ticket procurable from members). The Monday evening meetings are open to the public and ladies always attend. The Linnean is a younger and more exclusively natural history society, meet- ing at the American Museum of Natural History, once a fortnight. The Torrey Botanical Club, the Am. Microscopical Society, the N. Y. Microscopical Society, and the Am. Chemical Society are a few others of the same character. The Am. Geographical Society is a flourishing institution, with interesting rooms and a large library, at No. 11 \V. 29th st., which any one may visit during the day. It has a grand collection of maps and charts, and many interesting mementos of travel and travellers. Its monthly meetings (first Tuesday of each month from May to November) are held in Chickering Hall, when lectures on geographical subjects are given which are usually illustrated and always attract large audiences. Free tickets are distributed by members, or mailed to applicants by the permanent secretary at 1 1 W. 29th st. The American Institute is an old society, with rooms and a library in Clinton Hall, which has attained wide notoriety on account of its annual fair. The object of the society was promotion of invention and domestic industry ; and after many wanderings its fair has now settled in a building of its own at Third av. and 63d St. (Third Av. El. Ry. to 67th st. ; or Second Av. El. Ry. to 65th st., " These fairs are usually kept open for several weeks in the fall ; and, among a vast array of 268 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. machinery in motion, agricultural implements and manufactured goods, there are always to be seen a sufficient number of curious and beautiful objects to repay one for a visit. The building at 63d st. is a large hall covering the entire square, and is of the railway-station order of architecture. The promenade concerts given every evening during the exhibition attract many young people, usually more interested in each other than in the useful arts." The Farmers Club, of wide fame, is a section of this society. The Am. Society of Civil Engineers, 127 E. 23d st., possesses a pleasant club-house and library. The list of such societies might be prolonged, but they have nothing to show the sight-seer. The same is true of the thirty or forty societies devoted to medicine, surgery or hygiene. There is a County Medical Society, which examines and licenses qualified physicians to practice, under authority from the state. Its meetings are held the last Monday evening of each month at the Academy of Medicine, 12 W. 31st st. This Academy is a corporation of physicians and licen- tiates. Its objects are the cultivation of the science of medicine ; the advance- ment of the character and honor of the profession ; the elevation of the standard of medical education ; and the promotion of the public health. There are sections devoted to a variety of special diseases and departments of the science ; and rooms and a library of 20,000 volumes are open daily to the public at 12 W. 31st st. In the same building are the rooms of \.\ie. Medica/ Journal Association, \\\\\c\\ ex\s,is to furnish immediate access to all current medical literature in the department of medical journals and monographs. Several other special societies hold their meetmgs in this buildmg, also, which has thus become a professional headquar- ters for the metropolis. XVI. MILITARY AFFAIRS. The Regular Army and the Forts. ; ,->.i^ ROB ABLY there is no great city in the world, where nuil- >.'. '^ itary and naval affairs are so little before the eyes and minds of the citizens as in New York. The only fortifications and garrisons are far enough outside to put them quite apart from it ; and though private soldiers and sailors are often seen on the streets, an officer in uniform is almost never visible. Yet a considerable body of United States troops is always within a short distance of the city; and several thousand thoroughly drilled and equipped militiamen are able to be summoned within a few hours to quell a riot or meet any other emergency for which the police might be inadequate. The city of New York is now the general headquarters of the Military Depart- ment of the Atlantic, which is co-extensive with the Division of the same name, and embraces all of the states east of the Mississippi River. The residence and head- quarters post is on Governor's Island (see below) where all the Division and purely military business is transacted ; but the offices of the chief quartermaster and chief commissary, and the other commercial departments are in the new Army Building, a fine structure at the corner of Whitehall and Pearl sts. This stands on ground covered by one corner of the first Dutch fortification erected in New Amsterdam, and occupies the site of the old Produce Exchange. Governor's Island. — The major-general commanding at present is O. O. How- ard, known quite as widely for his religious philanthropy on one side as for his fighting ability on the other. The residences of himself and his staff are on Gov- ernor's Island, which is probably preferred to any other post in the Union, both for beauty and convenience, and on account of its proximity to the metropolis ; and an assignment there is eagerly sought for by most officers. 270 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. This island originally was densely wooded, of course, and was known to the early Dutch settlers as Nut Island, — a translation of the Indian name " Pogg- auck; " and thither merry parties would go on nutting picnics in the autumn. Its first owner was Governor Van Twiller, who purchased it from the redmen in 1635 ; and as it passed from him to his successors it came to be known as a sort of Gov- ernor's park, an appanage of the oftice : hence the present name. Governor's Island lies directly in the mouth of East River, about half a mile from the New York, and an equal distance from the Brooklyn shore, from the latter of which it is separated by Buttermilk Channel. The island contains about 65 acres, and has been exclusively owned and occupied by the War Department since previous to the war of 181 2, when its strategical position was taken advantage of and the extensive fortifications that now cover it, were erected. A ferry-boat (free) is run between the island and the U. S. Barge office, next to South Ferry, at intervals of an hour or so ; and though purposeless tramping about the island is discouraged, a quietly behaved visitor will be welcomed. It will facilitate sight-seeing, however, if an introduction to a resident officer be obtained. The landing is upon the northern side of the island, at the foot of a road running up to the Parade. All the ground at the right of this road belongs to the New York Arsenal, in charge of the Ordnance Bureau, and is covered with offices, magazines, pyramids of shot and shell, and rows of dismounted cannon ; the huge gun crushing its supports on the little wharf is one of three 20-inch Rodmans — the largest cannon owned by the government. At the left, a few yards beyond the landing, the quadrangular Parade appears, adorned with trees and a pretty band-stand and surrounded by the comfortable, albeit old-fashioned, houses of the commandant and headquarters' staff; at the further end are the officers' club, the chapel, built mainly by the exertions of Mrs. General Hancock, widow of the late commandant, and the soldiers' barracks. At the near corner is the long building filled with the library and picture-gallery of the Military Service Institution — an organization by officers of the army devoted to the advancement of their profes- sion. This is a progressive and highly important institution, and publishes every two months a "Journal," in magazine form, edited and contributed to by officers, which takes very high rank among publications of its class. Near by is the Military Museum, the key of which can be obtained, and an illustrated catalogue purchased, at the Institution. In this museum are stored a great number of interesting relics of all our wars, especially the last one : a great variety of obsolete and modern arms and equip- ments, both domestic and foreign ; a large and interesting collection of objects of Indian handicraft, costumes, decorations, etc., collected by officers on the frontier ; many presentation and personal swords, guns and the like, and miscellaneous articles of interest. Especially to be mentioned are : the Relics of Sir John Franklin ; the war horse (admirably mounted) which Sheridan rode at Win- chester, — MILITARY AFFAIRS. 271 " the steed, That saved the day, by carrying Sheridan into the fight From Winchester, twenty miles away." This horse was of Black Hawk blood, came into service with the Second Michi- gan Cavalry, and was considered by Sheridan the best charger he ever knew. A kettle-driun captured at Saratoga in 1777, the camp-bedstead and a card-table that belonged to Washington, represent the War of Independence ; while a series of torn battle flags recall the Civil War. laeyond the Parade a sunken way leads to the moat, picturesque old sallyport and interior of Fort Columbus, which is half-filled with the quarters of officers and artillerymen. Throtigh an opposite port you pass down to the level of the moat, now dry and grassv, on the opposite side and climb the narrow stairs leading to the scarp, when the magnificent breadth of the harbor breaks upon the view. Thence a path descends the sloping lawn of the glacis, past the little powder magazine and the hospital (on the right) to old Castle Williams, a small, circular fort of brick and stone on the point of the island opposite the Battery and com- manding the channel. This old-fashioned and now worthless fortress was begun in 180S, but its con- struction lagged until the war of 1812 was threatening the country, when it was completed in great haste by the voluntary labor of the citizens ; the professors and students of Columbia College, for example, came in a body and worked several days upon it. Its name honors the memory of Col. Jonathan Williams, the son of a Revolutionary patriot and the grandnephevv of Benjamin Franklin. He studied military science and fortifications in France, and was made Chief Engineer of the American army in 1805, when lie built most of the forts in the inner harbor of New York, including Fort Columbus, and Fort Clinton (Castle Garden). It has three stories of casenaates, reached from the ground by spiral staircases in towers. The lower tiers are now used for storage and the uppermost as a prison for mili- tary convicts. Several great guns are still mounted upon the parapets, and used for saluting; and it is worth while, if you can obtain permission, to mount to the top, since one of the most beautiful views in the world is to be obtained there. The whole expanse of the harbor, crowded with shipping and dominated by the Liberty Statue, is beneath the eye, while the vista extends far up both North and East rivers, takes in the grand architectural ]3ile of accumulated buildings at the lower end of New York, sweeps the long range of Brooklyn's shore-front, the full span of the great bridge, and overlooks the pretty island behind you. At sunset, when the evening-gun on the shore beneath booms out the day's farewell, the scene is thrillingly beautiful. Leaving the Castle, you will walk along the shore, past the water batteries, which may be made extremely formidable at short notice, and so around the southern extremity of the island and back through the Parade to the ferry. The Signal, or "Weather," Service is a branch of the U. S. Army whose reports upon coming weather are watched for with especial eagerness by the mari- time half of the population. Its station is in a little chamber on the roof of the Equitable Building [q. v.). Near it are mounted the wind-gauges, thermometers. 272 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. etc., and the tall staff upon which are floated during the day the flags, and at night the lanterns, that indicate weather anticipated during the next few hours. These signals are ordered from Washington ; but observations are given and received by telegraph between this city and 150 other stations, and upon them are based the opinions in regard to the weather which appear almost daily in the local newspapers in the form of interviews with the sergeant in charge. The flags are not conspicuous, but the great red danger-light can be seen at a great distance. Visitors are welcomed at the station, and its apparatus is of great interest. (See also Central Park). Other than this, the Regular Army is confined to the islands and fortifications in and about the harbor, described in the chapters A Tour of the Harbor, East River, and Brooklyn. The list of military stations and fortifications in the immediate neighborhood includes West Point (57 miles up the Hudson) ; David's Island ; Willett's Point, on the Long Island side of the entrance to Long Island Sound — an engineers' school and torpedo station ; Fort Schuyler, on Throgg's Neck; the Navy Yard in Brooklyn; Governor's Island (headquarters described above); Bedloe's Island, — Fort W^ood; Ellis Island (magazines); Fort Hamilton, Brooklyn shore of the Narrows ; Fort Lafayette, in the water opposite Fort Hamil- ton (abandoned); Fort Wadsworth and its associated batteries on the Staten Island shore of the Narrows ; and Sandy Hook, where new artillery is tested and where the beginning of an enormous fortress was made long ago and is advanced af ii^ervals. Recruiting Offices for the army are at the foot of Cortlandt st. and several places elsewhere. New recruits are sent to David's Island, at the exit of East River, where they remain for some months undergoing instruction and drill, before entering active service. Narwnal Guard, S. N. K. " The militia organizations of the city," writes Mr. Percy Townsend, "have always been a just source of pride to New Yorkers, for here alone has the National Guard system attained anything like the standard which was contem- plated by the act which created it. The inalienable right to bear arms seems to be dear to the hearts of the people of the city, and 5,230 otticers and enlisted men, forming seven regiments of infantry and two batteries of artillery, comprise the First- Brigade. These troops are all thoroughly equipped and regularly drilled, and form a very respectable body of efficient soldiers always at the disposal of the Governor of the State, who is ex officio commander-in-chief of the National Guard. These organizations have proved their value at various times of disturbance of the public peace, notably during the " draft riots " of 1863, the " orange riots " in 1871, and the "railroad-strike troubles" in 1S77. The knowledge of their presence always exercises a beneficial influence upon the dangerous classes of a great city. MILITARY AFFAIRS. 273 The material of which they are composed is not confined to any race or class, and naturalized citizens are as enthusiastic militiamen as Americans. The artillery is composed partly of Germans, while of the infantry one regiment is distinctively German, one Irish, and the others, known as American, contain many naturalized citizens. "The members of these regiments of citizen soldiery partly pay for their own uniforms. Arms, equipments, and munitions of war are furnished by the State, and certain other allowances are made to the organizations. The term of service is five years. Weekly company drills are held during the winter months. For- merly on national holidays, like July 4th, Decoration Day, or Washington's Birth- day, it was customary for the military to parade ; but of late years this has been discontinued, except on Decoration Day (May 30). It is also generally paraded for review by the Commander-in-Chief in the fall of each year." The local troops, composing the First Brigade (one-third of the total authorized militia of the State) have their headquarters at 6 Pine St., and are organized into 1st and 2d Batteries, and the 7th, 8th, 9th, 12th, 23d, 69th and 71st Regiments of infantry ; there is also a very " swell " and somewhat independent troop of hussars, and the veteran organization called The Old Guard. In addition to this list, New York has the Ordnance Department and Quartermaster-General's Department of the State, with an arsenal, like a small fort, at Seventh av. and 35th st. (The U. S. Arsenal is on Governor's Island.) The 1st Battery consists mainly of Germans, and has an armory at 340 W. 44th St. The 2d Battery is armed with gatling guns, and its armory is on Seventh av. between 52d and 53d sts. Seventh Regiment Armory. — Of the Infantry the famous Seventh Regiment is the "crack" corps, and has the finest armory in the United States, filling the entire square bounded by 66th and 67th sts., Fourth and Lexington avs., covering 200 ft. by 405 ft. The material is Philadelphia brick, with granite trimmings. The entrance is on Fourth av., where are the offices and reception rooms. Behind these is the magnificent drill-room, 200 by 300 feet in floor space, roofed at a great height by a single arch, and surrounded by galleries and glass cases for the storage of arms. This is adequately heated and lighted ; and when decorated for some fete, or occupied, as occasionally happens, by a ball or a fashionable fair, it is one of the most splendid rooms in the country. The building also contains si.x rooms for drilling squads, a rifle range 100 yards long, and rooms for the colonel, the adjutant, the field and staff, the non-commissioned oflicers and the board of olifi- cers. In addition to these official apartments there are a reception room, a library, a memorial room, a gymnasium, a hall for the Veteran's organization and ten rooms assigned to the different companies. These more social quarters are elab- orately and expensively decorated and furnished, and form a military club-house of the first order. As is implied by these facts, the Seventh is made up largely of the sons of wealthy families, socially prominent, and takes quite as much pride in 274 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. itself as does the city in it. Its record is most lionorable, both Ijefore and since it was among the first volunteers to reach Washington at the opening of the Civil War ; and in marching and soldierly bearing it claims, probably with good reason, the first place in the New York militia. The Eighth and Sev- enty-First Regiments oc- cupy jointly an old armory, up-stairs, at Broadway and 35th St. where Sixth av. crosses Broadway diagonally ; the armory of the Ninth is at 221 W. 26th St.; and of the Twelfth at 62d st. and Ninth av. — a new building of com- mendable proportions and ar- rangement conspicuous from the trains of the Sixth Av. E'. Ry. The Sixty-Ninth Reg- iment is made up almost wholly of Irishmen, and was the one so conspicuous for bravery under Corcoran, at the first battle of Bull Run. Its armory is over Tompkins Market, on Third av. between 6th and 7th sts. One battalion of the new Naval Reserve (militia) has been organized in this city, with temporary quarters at the First Battery Armory. The National Rifle Association, which was organized in 187 1 for the pur- pose of encouraging rifie practice throughout the United States, and to secure a uniform system of arming, drilling, and target practice among the National Guard of New York and the militia of other states, and also to provide and maintain a suitable rifle range in the vicinity of New York City, has established such a range at Creedmoor, L. I. (which see). Selected teams from the various regiments of the National Cuard compete there for prizes. The Loyal Legion, an organization of veteran ofiicers of the late war and their eldest sons, meets on the first Wednesday evening of each month at 214 Fifth av. The Grand Army of the Republic (headquarters, Albany) is represented in New York City and Brooklyn by 87 Posts, many of which own handsome halls, and number among them men of eminence. A note to Col. McK. Loeser, 8 S. William st., will procure information as to the meeting-place of any particular post. An account of Naval Affairs will here be found under the heading Navy Yard, in the chapter on Brooklyn. ARMORY OF THE SEVENTH REGIMENT. XVII. HOSPITALS, DISPENSARIES AND NURSES. EW YORK is justly proud of its hospitals and its ambu- lance service. It has been said with great truth by the able editor of the " Dictionary of New York," that many of these institutions have attained a degree of excellence in management and comfort in appointments which render them more desirable as places in which to take refuge during illness than almost any private house or home. " This is especially true of the New York, St. Luke's, and Roosevelt hospitals, where by paying a reasonable sum the best medical attend- ance, diet, and nursing may be had. Any stranger in the city, or any person living in a hotel or boarding-house, should not be deterred by old-time ]5rejudice from increasing his comfort and chances of recovery by removing at once to a first-class hos|)ital, away from the noise and inattention incident to an illness in a boarding- house." The present writer heartily endorses this advice. Bellevue. — This is the most widely known hospital in America. It stands at the foot of E. 26th St., and is a " long, grayish, four-story, prison-like structure, sit- uated in a block which extends to the East River, and is enclosed by a high, for- bidding stone wall. It was established in 1826, and is under control of the Dept. of Charities and Correction, who expend upon it about $100,000 a year. For many years it has been famous for the high medical and surgical skill of which it is the theatre, its faculty embracing many leading members of the profession in the city." Bellevue is governed by a medical board, with military inspection and discipline, and it is a prize of scholarship in the medical schools to be given a cadet- ship there. Admission of jjatients (between 10 a. m. and 3 p. m.), is procurable upon the reconmiendation of a physician, but contagious diseases are refused ; accidents and sudden illness, at any time of day or night. Hours for visitors, from II a. m. to 3 p. m. Near by is the Emergency Hospital, 223 E. 26th st. (Dej^t. 276 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Public Charities and Correction), for the relief of persons taken suddenly ill, and women on their way to Maternity Hospital. Within the grounds is the Bellevue Hospital Medical College, founded in 1861, under the ausi:)ices of the Commissioners of Public Charities and Correction, who are ex-otificio members of the Board of Trustees. The college has taken a high rank, and has now about 500 students. The course is three years in length, diplo- mas are given, and the fees arc low. The l\loi\s;ite is another object of gruesome interest at Bellevue. It is a small, one-story building. In an inner room, protected by a partition of glass, the un- known and unclaimed dead lie stretched, almost nude, upon marble slabs, and under the drip of icy water. Many of these ghastly corpses come from the rivers, which yield a floating dead body for almost every day in the year. They are kept for 72 hours, if the warden deems it permissible, and photographs, the clothes, etc., are retained for a long time, sometimes enabling identification to be made by friends long after the burial of the body. The New York Hospital is next in popularity, and the oldest in the city, since though it was chartered by George III., in 177 1, it was no doubt a direct outcome of the older hospital which went back to a hundred years before that in its history. The office and residence is at No. 8 W. i6th — a handsome brown-stone structure, with a pretty front yard and abundance of ivy. But in 1877 there was opened in the rear of this office, a magnificent structure facing W. 15th st. (near Fifth av.), having every modern device for health and comfort. This hospital also maintains a branch " house of relief," for cases of accident or sudden illness, at 160 Chambers St., in the heart of the wholesale district, whither the police take down-town cases of injured and prostrated persons, found in the street or other- wise coming into their hands. This branch, as well as the main establishment, has ambulances, and it gives free treatment. Other Hospitals.— i?rison, which is close beside the 8th St. station of the Sixth Av. El. Ry. Center Market is a dilapidated affair, dis- tinguished as the best place to buy flowers and living house-plants, whicb in spring make the dull old building gay and sweet with their colors and perfume. The prin- cipal wholesale flower market is the Clinton at the foot of Canal St., N. R., where the wagons of the dealers are drawn up at daylight, and trade goes on briskly for several hours, in the midst of a temporary verdure to which that grim locality is otherwise unaccustomed; but it is probable that a flower-market will be estab- lished for a few hours each morning in the plaza of Union sq. It is to be hoped that this proposition may be carried out, Hudson River # Daylight THE PALACE IRON STEAMERS "NEW YORK" AND "ALBANY" OF THE Ht_idson River IDsiy Line, Leave New York Daily, Except Sunday, from Desbrosses St. Pier, 8.40 a. m.; Twenty-second St. Pier, N. R., 9.00 a. m. The Favorite Tourist Route to the Catskill Mountains, Saratoga and the North, Niagara Falls and the West, in PPRECIATIXG the demand of the better class of tourists foi- coinfurt ffSl ^■ntl kixury, the inanagenient of the Day Line have ]»Ttected their service in every manner possible, keeping^ it fully abreast of tlie times. The elegant steamers are as famous as is the inajcstir river on which they run. Built of iron, of great speed and superii appointments, they are the finest of their class afloat. No freight of any desi ription is carried, the steamers being designed exclusively for the passi'iitjiT sei-vice. Richly furnished private parlors, giving absolute seilusiou and inivacy to small parties or families, are provided, and liandsonu'ly appoiutiMl dining rooms, with superior service, are on the main deck, affording an uninterrupted view of the magnificent scenery for which the Hudson is renowned. attractive daily excursions to West Point, newburgh, and poughkeepsie. C. T. VAN SANTVOORD, GeniTal Mnnafjer. F. B. HIBBARP, Gfueral PassfiiKfi" Agent. DESBROSSES STREET PIER, NEW YORK. XX. BROOKLYN. VISIT to Brooklyn is among the duties, and will prove itself to the pleasure, of anyone who wishes to see New York, for it is to all intents and pur- poses an integral part of the metropolis, though quite autonomous in government and possessed of characteristics wholly its own. Its population is now about 900,000, and is increasing rapidly ; and 100,000 of these citizens come to New York every day, on the average. There are four general divisions of the city, popularly, though not officially, called The Heights; South Brooklyn, the Hill, and the Eastern District, or Williamsburg. Certain principal features should be attended to by the sight-seer, among which are the following : 77/^? Heights; Prospect Park; Greenwood and other cemeteries ; The Navy Yard ; Plymouth Church; A four of the Elevated Railroads. The main thoroughfare of Brooklyn is Fulton St., which is six miles in length, and has a generally eastward course. It begins directly o])posite Fulton st. in New York, and was among the first to be laid out when settlement began on that side of East River. Its present name was given in honor of Fulton, the inventor of the steamboat, and the honor is emphasized by the enactment that no street shall cross it, or if a street does cross it, that the name shall not be same on one side as it is on the other; a distinction maintained to this day as to that part below the City Hall, which was the original Fulton street. The oldest and busiest of the ferries from New York (Fulton) lands its passengers at the foot of P'ulton st. ; and the Bridge terminus is almost upon it, some distance back from the shore. The Kings County Elevated Railway and many horsecar lines occupy the lower, more busy part of the street. Two thirds of a mile above the ferry, where a number of streets intersect and branch away from Fulton, stand the Court House, where the celebrated " Beecher trial " took place, the Hall of Records, ne.xt to it, the Municipal Building (con- 290 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. taining the departmental offices of the local government) and, prominently in front of all, the City Hall. These buildings are costly and imposing. They contain several Federal ofiSces at present, and the Post Office is in hired quarters near by; but an immense, and handsome Federal Building is under construction not far from the Bridge terminus. Near the City Hall are many large business structures THE CITY HALL OF BROOKLYN. — office buildings, banks, newspapers, and theatres ; the finest Y. M C. A. house in the country, and some of the largest shops in Brooklyn. If now the visitor will walk clown Montague st. toward the river, he will soon find himself in that part of Brooklyn called The Heights. — Here the land comes \o the water in a steep bluff nearly a hundred feet high at the foot of Montague St., where the residences of many of the oldest and most prominent Brooklyn families stand on what is known as Columbia Heights, overlooking from their windows a grand j^anorama of the harbor, the lower part of East River and the Battery and Wall st. regions of New York City. Along the base of the bluffs are lines of wharves and spacious warehouses, BROOKL YN. 291 where ships are moored and foreign commerce comes and goes , and there is only room for a narrow street with only warehouses, mostly bonded, those on the land side being bmlt in excavations under the back gardens of the dwellings on Colum- bia Heights ; but the highland above is covered with stately homes, hotels, churches, clubs and institutions of learning. The term " The Heights," however, is made to reach back as far as the City Hall and hence includes the public build- ings, the V. M. C. A., the Academy of Music, and several theatres. Next to the capacious Academy of Music, and communicating with it by large doors, is the ornamental structure of the Art Association, where pictures are exhibited at stated intervals, by artists and by wealthy connoisseurs. Opposite these buildings stands the Brooklyn Library, whose admirable reading-rooms, elaborate catalogue, excellent collection of books for reference and 100,000 volumes for circulation, are matters for just pride to the citizens, and ought to interest strangers. The Brooklyn Institute, which has long sustained a free library and is now founding an Art Museum liberally planned, is close by. Closely cognate is the purpose of the Long Island Historical Society, which possesses a large and handsome edifice, with terra cotta and stone trimmings, at the corner of Clinton and Pierrepont sts., a library of over So, 000 volumes and pamphlets, and a museum of historical and curious objects. The Philharmonic Society and the Seidl Society — the former over thirty years old — though they have no buildings, are among the notable influ- ences of the city. Clinton st. was for many years the Fifth Avenue of Brooklyn, and no part of the city is more fashionable than the blocks along Montague, Pierre- pont, Remsen, and some other streets leading from Clinton to the river-bluff. There is not the shade and picturesque beauty here, however, which belong to some other districts, that "on the hill," for example. Here on the Heights are the three — and the only three — first-class hotels of Brooklyn, the Mansion House, the Pierrepont House, and the new and lofty St. George Hotel,' and here have lately been erected some tall and elegant apartment houses, the principal ones being the Arlington, Berkelev, Grosvenor, Montague, Columbia, West End, Roebling and Marguerite, the latter a massive pile of ten stories, overlooking the Bay. Here, too, are the leading clubs, — the Ihooklyn, Hamilton, Excelsior and Crescent Ath- letic Club, just reinforced by the Jefferson, a new Democratic club, while on "The Hill" the new Republican Union League Club, the Lincoln and the Montauk have been added, with fine houses, to the older Oxford. It was the number of very fine houses of worship, not to speak of many smaller ones, in this conspicuous part of town, which gave to Brooklyn the name " City of Churches." Plymouth Church, made forever famous by the pastorate of Henry Ward Beecher, is here, and is now presided over by Dr." Lyman Abbot, editor of Tlie Cliristiaii Union. Plymouth Church is in Orange st., between Hicks and Hetiry. It is within easy 292 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. walking distance of either Fulton Ferry or the Bridge, and " anybody can direct you." The edifice is merely a great brick " barn," and has no ornamentation within, inconsistent with its outward simplicity. It was built in 1847, and its pul- ])it was occui)ied 40 years by Mr. Beecher, until his death in 1887. Its most prom- inent members dwell near by, but a large part of the regular congregation gathers from remote quarters of the city, while a throng of strangers from all parts of the country is to be seen within its doors each Sunday. In Mr. Beecher's time it was often impossible to seat the number of outsiders who came; the congregation is still an exceptionally large one and growing. The Bethel and Mayflower missions of this church are of magnitude and importance and its general city mission work is rapidly extending, $10,000 being raised annually for this work. Mr. Beecher lived and died not far away, at No. 124 Hicks St., corner of Clark. Another famous Congregational church on the Heights is Dr. Richard S. Storrs's Church of the Pilgrims, at the corner of Henry and Remsen sts. Next to the Historical Society's building is Holy Trinity, the leading Episcopal Church of Brooklyn, under the pastorate of the Rev. Dr. C. H. Hall ; while St. Ann's (Dr, Alsop's) is only a block or two distant. These are only a few of the more widely known churches on the Heights ; and in this sanctifie'd locality are the homes of such well-known men as Secretary-of-the-Navy Tracy (on Montague st.), A. A. Low ; John Claflin, the dry-goods merchant ; the Mallorys, of steamship fame; Mr. S. V. White — or " Deacon " White, as he is called in Wall st; the Roeblings, engineers of the Brooklyn Bridge ; and many others of great wealth and influence. Prospect Park. — This noble park, which lies upon the high ground in the rear of the city, overlooking the populous wards of South Brooklyn and the New York harbor on one side, and the Atlantic shore toward Coney Island on the other, is nearly as large as Central Park, and is by many people considered more enjoyable, if not more beautiful. It is reached by the horse-cars of the following lines: From Fulton Ferry or the Bridge entrance, — Flatbush av. line (the most direct), Adams and Boerum Place line, and Franklin av. line ; from Hamilton (south) Ferry, the Hamilton av. and Prospect Park line ; and from Broadway (Williamsburgh) ferry, the Nostrand av. line. The distance is about 21^ miles, more or less, from any of the ferries, but the route from Fulton Ferry or the Bridge is the most interesting. None of the elevated railroads go very near to the park. Prospect Park contains nearly 550 acres, of which there are in woodland, no acres; in lakes and water courses, 77 acres; in meadows, 70 acres ; in plantations, 259! acres ; in drives, 8f miles ; bridle roads, 3jL miles ; walks, lof miles. There is an acreage of .90 per 1000 inhabitants as against 4.29 in New York. Work was begun there in 1S66, so that it is eight years younger than Central Park, but, owing to the retention of old woodlands, the i^resence of good soil, and excellent early management, it has a mkture and strikingly rural appearance. The land cost $5,000,000, and as much more has been expended on improvements. Real estate in the vicinity has increased in value $33,000,000. In connection with the park, a series of boulevards, 200 ft. wide, have been designed for distant points. One is BROOKL YN. 293 to cross the East River at IJlackwell's Island, and connect with the Central Park or the Eastern Boulevard. The entrance is dignified, presenting to the eye a large, open space, with planta- tions of trees and shrubs, both exotic and native. The drives are skilfully arranged, so as to give glimpses of the broad reaches of green sward, which are the chief charm of this park. None other in the world has a finer stretch of meadow sur- face, and this is made effective by the borders of natural wood. Here may be seen some of the finest Japanese maples in the country, many rare coniferous trees, and masses of rhododendrons and other broad-leaved evergreens. In cer- tain parts, especially near the main entrance, showy flower gardens are cultivated. Restaurants and shelters will be found in the park, near the lake. It is the great delight of this park that one may run about on the grass almost everywhere, or wander through the thickets at will. There is a winding lake with boats, a shady ramble, etc., etc. P'rom Lookout Hill, a magnificent view is to be gained, reaching from the Atlantic horizon to the Palisades and the Orange Hills; and on certain lawns, especially on Saturday afternoons, hundreds of brightly apparelled young people may be seen playing tennis, or croquet, or prac- tising at archery, or otherwise actively amusing themselves, while thousands of others lounge upon the grassy slopes in friendly groups and look on, or join the crowds that surround the music-stand by the lake. A visit to Prospect Park should be among the items not to be left out of a trip to the metropolis in summer. Near the entrance to the park is the site for the statue of Henry Ward Beecher, erected by public subscription. Greenwood Cemetery. — This famous city of the dead covers a square mile of the highlands that lie back of South Brooklyn and overlook New York Harbor. It is zyi miles from the Bridge, and is reached most directly by the Fifth Avenue line of the Brooklyn El. Ry. which has a station at its principal (the northern) entrance ; and also by several lines of horsecars from Fulton, Hamilton and South Ferries. Thirty minutes is the length of the trip from New York via the Bridge and Elevated road. Carriages will be found at the entrance which make the tour of the cemetery, and the driver explains what are generally regarded as the most interesting things as he goes along. The charge for the whole ride is 25 cents. This cemetery was opened in 1842, and nearly 30,000 lots have been sold and about 250,000 burials have been made since that time, including the most distinguished citizens of New York and Brooklyn who have passed away during the last half-century. The control is not vested in a private corporation, but in a board of public trustees, who now have at its disposal, for its maintenance, a fund approaching $1,000,000. These large resources, and the wealth of many of the families represented upon the rolls of its dead, have permitted a vast expenditure in beautifying both the public and private parts : and there is no burying ground 294 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. in the country which compares with Greenwood for the cost and elaborateness of its mortuary monuments or the care taken of it as a whole. The stone-bedded, tile-drained roads alone measure 25 miles in length. The Northern is the principal one of the several entrances, and its grand gothic gateway of brown stone, elaborately carved, holds the offices of the administration and a visitors' room. Waiting rooms will also be found at the other entrances, each of which is furnished with toilet rooms, etc. : and near the center of the cem- etery — which covers almost a square mile (474 acres) is " The Shelter House" (at the intersection of Locust and Southwoodavs.), designed for the shelter and con- venience of visitors who chance to be remote from the various entrances and need the conveniences which it affords. From Plateau Hill, and from many other points, far reaching and beautiful views of the harbor, the Jersey shore and New York and Brooklyn cities may be obtained ; and a walk of half a mile from the eastern entrance will take one to Prospect Park. Among the thousands of mortuary monuments, some are worthy of special note. Among them are : The monument and bronze bust to Horace Greeley, on Locust Hill, near Oak av., which was erected by the printers of the country. The triangular block covering the remains of Piof. S. F. ]>. Morse, the inventor of the electric telegraph; this stands on High-wood Hill, is surrounded by many costly monuments, and overlooks the Clinton monument. The Soldiers' Monument, which is tall and costly, but lacks impressiveness ; it stands on the plateau of Battle Hill, whence a broad view is to be gained. The Theatre Fire Monument, opposite the main entrance, underneath which, in a common grave, rest the unrecognized and unclaimed bodies of those who perished in the burning of the Brooklyn theatre, in Dec, 1876, when over 300 peo- ple lost their lives. The Firemen's Monument, surmounted by the figure of a fireman, holding a child in his arms. ■ It was erected by the old volunteer fire department of New- York City, whose chief engineer, Harry Howard, has jilaced elsewhere in the grounds a statue in memory of his foster mother, showing her as adopting him when saved from a burning building. Many of the monuments take the form of Greek or Gothic memorial cha])els. one of the most conspicuous and beautiful of which is that to Miss Mary M. Dauser, a philanthropic woman, at the intersection of Fir and Vine avs. Another temple worth special attention is that of A. S. Scribner, at Cypress ami Vine avs., which was made in Italy and contains the figure of Hope. The monument to commemorate John Matthews, at the southwesterly end of Valley Water, is in the form of a richlv carved canoj^y and spire above a sculp- tured sarcophagus, upon tlie top of which lies a full-length, marble figure of the dead man. On the tablet under the canopv is a veiled female figure seated in a chair and typifving grief. The artist was Carl Miiller and the cost $30,000. The Pilot's Monument, erected by the pilots of New York Harbor to a hero among them ; and the " Sea Captain's statue " to (Capt. John Correja), holding the actual sextant he was accustomed to use, will interest thosQ fond of the sea. Other fine and costly carvings in Italian marble, are seen in the monument BROOKL YN. 295 lo the Brown Brothers, the New York bankers, in the emblematic group standing in the lot of the elder James Gordon Bennett, founder of the New York Herald, and in the famous Charlotte Cauda monument, at Fern and Greenbough avs. The colossal bronze statue of Governor De Witt Clinton, in Bay wood Dell, should not be missed by the visitor to Greenwood, who will come away feeling that perhaps it is as satisfactory as anything of the more pretentious sort in the whole cemetery. Remarks on other Cemeteries. — Burial of the dead within New York city is no longer permitted. The sites of most of the ancient cemeteries are now com- pletely obliterated, and covered by buildings or parks ; but a few picturesque rem- nants are left, one of which is caught sight of from the Third Av. El. Ry. just below Chatham sq. This was a Jewish burying-ground, and is the one alluded to by Joseph Jefferson in his " Autobiography." The death-rate in New York city is about 26)^ to the 1000 ; and the deaths annually number about 40,500. A death must be satisfactorily reported to the Health Board by the attending physician and a burial permit issued, or else the case is investigated by the district coroner. All these formalities and every other detail will be attended to by any reputable undertaker, who, under instructions from friends, would take complete charge of the funeral of a stranger dying in the city. None of the cemeteries will repay a visit by the ordinary sight-seer, except Greenwood and Trinity churchyard (see Trinity Church). They are mainly on Long Island, and the approaches, as a rule, are unattractive. Trinity Parish has a cemetery on the North River bank between 153d and 155th st. On the western shore of the harbor, south of Jersey City, is the New York Bay Cemetery, used principally by Jersey City and Hoboken. Union Field, Salem Field and Machpelah (Jewish), Washington, Maple Grove and The Cemetery of the Ever- i^reeiis, are in the eastern suburbs of lirooklyn, but none contain anything likely to interest the stranger much, except the Sailor's Monument in the last named. Cahary Cemetery, two miles east of Hunters' Point, is the great Roman Catholic burial-ground of New York and the surrounding cities. The trains of the Long Island R. R. from Hunter's Point, and the Broadway horse-cars,- Williamsburgh, run to it. Cypress Hills is a beautiful burial-ground in the eastern limits of Brook- lyn. It covers 400 acres, broken by hills and dales, embosoming little lakes, and 200 acres are already laid out. Here is New York's National Cemetery for sol- diers killed in the late war, which covers a large ]5lat lying upon a hill-top, and is under a distinct management. A fine monument has been erected in the center of the plat, and the graves are sim])lv^ btlt tastefully adorned. This cemetery is accessible by several Imes of Brooklyn horse-cars, by the Fulton st. and Broadway elevated railways, and by steam-cars from the Atlantic av. station. Woodlawn is an elegant and aristocratic city of the dead, at Woodlawn .Station, on the Harlem R. R. (hourly trains from Grand Central Dejjot) ; and is wtli seen from the cars of the New Haven road. It is on high ground in the extreme northern margin of the city, has an area of 396 acres, and has become the burial-ground of many wealthy New York families who have erected handsome monuments to their dead, among whom are Ex-Mayor Havemeyer, Horace F. Clark, James Law, and Judge Whit- ing. It is entirely undenominational. Cremation has not made much progress in New York, yet two crematories are kept busy. The Navy Yard. — Tourists from the interior of the country are sure to be desirous of inspecting the U. S. Navy Yard in Brooklyn. It is on the Wallabout 296 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. — a basin or indentation from the East River, where in Revolutionary days was moored the dreadful y^rj^^, worst of the prison hulks. It is within comfortable walking distance of the landings of Fulton or Catherine ferries, or of the Bridge: but horsecars run thither at frequent intervals, if you wish to ride. This is the foremost naval station in the country, and its brick wall embraces a space of 45 acres in the yard proper, while 100 more acres closely adjacent belong to the establishment. The space within the walls is largely occupied by huge store-houses and the offices of the superintendents of various branches of the service. The United States Naval Lyceum, founded by officers of the navy in 1833, is here ; it has a fine library and a large collection of curiosities, together with valuable geological and mineralogical cabinets. Near the water are the enormous sheds under which the building of ships goes on, and the shops where the iron work is prepared. The only vessel of impor- tance under construction at present is the Maine ; but, excepting a few yards of her prow, nothing can be seen of her or the method of her construction, as no spectators are admitted to the shops or the shed that covers her. Two or three monitors, and one or more ships of war in commission, usually lie in the basin, or are moored at the wharves, and permission can be gained in most cases to go on board of them. The enormous cranes used to handle heavy ordnance, will excite admiration ; and visitors will look with interest upon the magnificent, new graving dock, which will carry a ship 300 ft. long. It is built of granite, and the main chamber is 286 ft. long by 35 ft. wide at the bottom, and 307 ft. long by 98 ft. wide at the top, with a depth of 36 ft. The enormous steam pumps connected with the dock can empty it of water in four and a-half hours. This dock cost considerably over $2,000,000. Another and larger dock is constructing. It will be 465 ft. long, and 2rowide, and will accommodate the largest vessels. The large, pillared structure seen in the distance, as one looks eastward, is the U. S. Marine Hospital, where 500 patients can be taken care of. The grounds surrounding it are large and handsome. ^ Several years ago the bones of the men who died on board the British prison- ships moored near the site of the Navy Yard during the Revolutionary War, were removed from the ])lace where they were buried in the lower part of Brooklyn, and entombed at Fort Greene. In 18S8, at the request of the Society of Old Brooklynites, the Legislature of this State passed a resolution requesting Congress to make an appropriation for the erection of a suitable monument in honor of these men, and a bill providing .$100,000 for the proposed monument has been laid before the present Congress. Between 11,000 and 12,000 are believed to have perished in the wretched old hulks which the British used as substitutes for prisons, and died, too, in the most miserable way it is possible to conceive. Tlieir bodies were wrapped in blankets and i:)uried in shallow graves dug in the sand, where they remained, except in so far as they became uncovered and scattered by the action of the elements, until 1808, when the Tammany Society caused them to be collected and buried with impressive ceremonies. In the tomb thus provided, BROOKLYN. 297 they remained until, as has been said, they were transferred to Fort Greene. The Federal Government has thus far done nothing to honor the memory of these soldiers who did not even enjoy the privilege of dying on the battle-field. The monument, if erected, will stand in a most commanding position, overlooking the spot where \\\t Jersey and the other prison-ships lay while doing their deadly work. The Docks. —The water-front of Brooklyn, especially toward the southern end of the city, is bordered by spacious docks and warehouses, wherein is done by far the larger part of all the warehousing at the port of New York. The nearest and greatest of these docks is the Atlantic, which is immediately opposite Governor's Island and can be reached by horse-cars from any ferry. The l:)asin is a parallelogram in form, has an area of 40 acres, and a depth of 25 It. It will accommodate the largest vessels; 500 vessels can occupy it at one time ; and 400 canal boats, besides many other vessels have floated upon it at once. The pier-line on Buttermilk Clhannel is 3,000 ft. long, and the total wharfage is about two miles. Surrounding the basin on all sides, exce]>ting an entrance 200 ft. wide for vessels, are substantial brick and granite warehouses from two to five stories high, and covering an area of 20 acres. Here are nine steam grain-eleva-- tors, the largest capable of raising 3,000 bushels per hour. South of the Atlantic Docks, on Gowanus Bay — the earliest part of that shore settled, and once famous for its fine shellfish, — are the Erie and Brooklyn basins, of similar design and construction ; and still farther south two large dry docks. All these are very well seen from the decks of the ferry-boats to South Brooklyn, and are full of picturesque interest. Tours in Brooklyn. — The shore-front, the Heights, the business center of the city, and Prospect Park and Greenwood, overlooking the whole, have already passed under our observation. Persons going to " Coney Island " by one route and returning by another, as a stranger seeking to get as much as possible out of one trip would be likely to do, will get various gbmpses of the outskirts of the city; and thushfe has fairly covered it. A pleasant ride, nevertheless, is to take the cars of the Kings County Elevated Railroad at Fulton Ferry or the Bridge and run out to East New York. The line goes out Fulton st. and carries you through one of the prettiest and most respectable parts of the city to the suburb of East New York. Here it crosses the tracks of the Long Island company's rail- way to Manhattan Beach and its Rapid Transit line on Atlantic avenue ; and here, at the distance of a block, the Union Elevated R. R. may be re-taken homeward. This goes through a somewhat different, but no less interesting part of town, and connects with the Fifth av. line to Greenwood, and with the Myrtle av. line to the Eastern District (Williamsburgh), without any additional charge. In Williams- burgh, an elevated railway runs out to East New York along Broadway, the prin- cipal thoroughfare of that part of the city, but its route has few attractions. XXT. SEASIDE RESORTS. ^^^t- ' ^,^ NE chapter can hardly contain more than a mere suggestion as to the accessibility and distinctive characteristics of the seashore resorts near New York. These fall into two classes, namely : the coast of Long Island and the coast of New Jersey. The principal bathing and fishing points in each of these divisions have been resorted to in sum- mer by people from New York and neighboring cities, ever since civiliza- tion began here. Hotels of every kind, from the finest and most expensive to those of the cheapest and most limited accommodations, open their doors to the public, supplemented by boarding-houses in equal variety. Some places are designed only for those who go to stay some days or weeks, others are favorites with excursionists, or the citizen who runs away from town only for the day, or over night. At the latter are a great number of eating and drinking rooms, and catch-penny amusements, and an active, ephemeral life which gives them a holiday appearance quite distinct from the staid and homelike atmos- phere of the other class. Extra trains for the seaside traffic are run at frequent intervals and at low rates of fare in summer, over all the railroads leading to the beaches; and a great fleet of steamboats plies back and forth. In addition to these, almost daily excursions are run under the auspices of some Sunday-school, or charitable or private organ- SEASIDE RESORTS. 299 izatioii, which are more or less open to the public, and offer the amusements of a picnic ; when, however, the advertisement of one of these picnic excursions shows that it is given by the "Johnny Morgan Coterie " or the " Pat Moloy Association," or something of the same ilk, people disposed to good order and whole bones in taking their amusements will do well to stay at home. BATHING AT COiMEY ISLAND. The principal starting places for steamboats to the seaside are at Pier i, on the west side of the Battery (Battery Place Station, Sixth Av. El. Ry.), and at the foot of W. 23d St., N. R. In Brooklyn the boats start from the foot of Fulton st. The advertisements in the daily newspapers should be consulted for information on these points, since no general statement that could be made here would be trustworthy for all occasions. The care of the police extends to all these steam- boat lines and all the seashore villages and bathing resorts near the city, so that women and children need not fear to go to any of them unescorted by men, — or at. 300 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. any rate to any place where women and children would naturally think of going for a day's outing. Manhattan Beach, for instance, is crowded on jjleasant after- noons with little parties of ladies and children alone. Light wraps shoula always be taken, since the wind often blows very cool on the beach and on the ride home, especially if the return is made after dark. long Island Coast— Coney Island and Rockaway. The ocean beaches at the western extremity of Long Island are comprehended under the general designations " Coney Island " and " Rockaway." Important distinctions between the separate parts of each of these seaside resorts exist, how- ever, and should be carefully noted by the stranger. " Prior to 1875 ^'^'^ ^'^^ stretch of beach, five miles long, with its splendid surf, and its unecpialled location in point of accessibility from New York, Brooklyn, and other adjacent cities, was little more than a barren waste of sand. On the west end of the island was a small hotel, and two steamboats made daily trips to that point. At the terminus of the old Coney Island road from Brooklyn, stood a hostelry to which the residents of that city occasionally drove down in the after- noon. "The boats and the beach, however, were little patronized by the better classes, owing to the ditifrculty of reaching the island and the reputation for dis- order which it obtained through various causes. At that time a single horse- car line from Fulton Ferry and a steam line from an almost inaccessible part of Brooklyn near Greenwood Cemetery furnished the means of reaching other parts of the island; but these were an inconvenient and tedious means of reaching a location desirable only from its natural advantages. In 1S74 a steam road from 20th St., Brooklyn, was built by an enterprising capitalist to what is now known as West Brighton Beach, and a large pavilion and restaurant were erected at its terminus. The result proved that the enterprise necessary to afford a convenient means of reaching the island was all that was necessary to secure for the place the position to which its location and natural advantages entitled it, as the most popular watering-place in this country. At the present time six steam railways, one line of street cars, and several lines of steamboats, capable of transjiorting at least 150,000 persons to and from the beach daily, are in operation. The beach itself is covered with light and airy buildings of all sizes and for every conceivable purpose, and during the season the sands are black with people daily." — Toivnsend. As this volume is not a descriptive book, it is not necessary to name or picture all the wonderful and enjoyable things one may see and do on these beaches further than is sufficient to characterize each one, so that the visitor who goes for the first time may intelligently choose his landing-place. Old Coney Island, or The West End. — This is the part longest occupied, and Norton's hotel, antedating all the modern structures, is still occupied. Around it have grown up pavilions, saloons and small hotels, but the district is not popular with quiet-loving citizens. It communicates directly with Brooklyn by a horsecar and steam route, known as the Brooklyn, Bath and West End R. R., which runs from Fifth av. and 29th St., just beyond the main entrance to Green- SEASIDE RESORTS. 301 wood, but is rarely patronized by New Yorkers except when they go on to the shore ji'^ter a visit to the cemetery. A large summer home and- hospital for sick children is one of the features here. Adjoining and continuous with the West End is West Brighton, the most crowded and democratic part of this whole series of beaches. Here " there is a motley crowd of hotels, big and little, concert stands, beer-gardens, variety shows, skating-rinks, wooden toboggan-slides, shooting-gal- leries, bathing-houses, merry-go-rounds, inclined railways, museums, aquariums, brass-bands, pop-corn and hot sausage venders; " in fact, every thing that can be thought of for amusement and penny-catching. Out from the beach extend two long iron piers, with bathing-houses beneath them and restaurants, etc, at the end ; and here (and here alone) is where the steamboats from New York land their passengers. On the beach stands a tower, 300 ft. high, with elevators to carry you to the observatory in the top ; and a building near by is in the form of a colossal elephant, with restaurants, dancing-rooms and various other interesting things in its interior, while the howdah on its back forms an observatory beneath which is spread the panorama of the whole shore. The bathing arrangements here are good. West Brighton is thronged with people of every kind from noon till midnight, and most of all on Sundays; but there are certainly more plebeians than patricians. Three direct routes to West Brighton may be chosen from : — 1. By StCiunhoaf. — Staunch and elegant boats of the Iron Steamboat Com- pany make trips at intervals of an hour or so from Pier i, on the North River side of tiie Battery, and from several other landings. The places and hours of depart- ure are advertised in the daily newspapers. The fare is 50 cents for a round-trip ticket, good to return by any boat of tlie line. 2. Culver Route. — This is by steamboat from the Battery, at the terminus of the Elevated railways in New York, to Bay Ridge (South Brooklyn) and thence by rail (N. Y. and Sea Beach R. R.) to West Brighton. These trains run at intervals of an hour or less from morning until late in the evening. The time required is about an hour, and the fare is 50 cents for a round-trip ticket ; these tickets may be exchanged at offices on the beach to return by trains from Manhattan Beach ; and Manhattan tickets mav be exchanged for use in returning this way. Open cars, cool and comfortable, are used on all trains; and the terminus is in the por- tico of the great Sea Beach Hotel, which was originally the Government Building at the Centennial Exposition. 3. T/ie Culver Route from Brooklyn, leaving Ninth av. and 20th st., South Brooklyn, and joining the main line in the outskirts of the city. Fare from Brook- lyn, 25 cents. The horse-cars from Fulton Ferry and the Bridge marked " Pros- pect Park and Coney Island " connect with the city terminus of this line, which is a convenient one for those who may spend a morning in Prospect Park, and wish to go to Coney Island for the evening. 4. T/ie Ocean Parkzvay, a splendid boulevard or drive from Prospect Park straight down to West Brighton, and thence along the shore to Brighton Beach. 5. The Route to West End, herettifme desnibed. 302 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Brighton.— Half a mile east of West Brighton, beyond a desert of sand through which a hard road has been made, is Brighton, the favorite beach for Brooklyn people. Here is a huge hotel, which has been repeatedly moved back from the shore, out of the way of the waves, and the beautiful grounds have more than once been ruined by an inroad of the sea, or by the devastation of gale and salt spray. It is only three or four years since large and costly buildings stood far out beyond the present high-water mark. The Brighton hotel is 535 ft. long, and is run on the American plan. The upper floors are reserved for permanent guests, and transient visitors are not allowed even to ascend the stairways. Rooms on the second floor are assigned to guests making a short stay. The piazzas are so broad that 2000 persons ni'ay sit down at once at the tables set in them, and still leave ample space for promenading; and 20,000 meals may be given in a single day. The prices are not excessive, though somewhat in advance of average rates in the city; but the portions served are large and will suffice for two persons, so that a party of friends dining together, may get a substantial dinner at fair rates,— say 75 cents to $1.25 each, "including vin ordi- naire. In front of this hotel is a band-stand, canopied by a huge, shell-shaped sounding- board, where one of the leading orchestras of I^rooklyn gives concerts twice a day. The bathing houses are of great size and are conveniently arranged; but nothing else obstructs the seaward outlook, for the shows and shops, taverns and clap- trap which distinguish West Brighton, are entirely absent from Brighton Beach. Routes to Brighton are : 1. The Ciib'er and other routes to West Brighton, as heretofore stated, and thence along the Concourse, a paved road which connects West Brighton with Brighton, — distance, ^ mile. Cars on an elevated road, and many stages or " park wagons " are going back and forth continually ; fare 5 cents. 2. Brighton Beach and Brooklyn Railway — From Atlantic and Franklin avenues to Brooklyn. 3. Marine Raikuay, from Manhattan Beach. Manhattan Beach. — This resort, next east of Brighton Beach, is the favorite place for New Yorkers of the well-to-do class, and undoubtedly the spot to which the visitor will oftenest return, though he ought, once at least, to make the whole tour from the Oriental to West End. The Manhattan grounds are supposed to begin where the Brighton property ends, but in fact there is a half-mile space of Bpen sand and tidal inlet between them, which is traversed by a short steam rail- l-oad known as the Marine Railway, because formerly it ran through the surf upon a substructure of piles which were long ago engulfed by the sea. The Manhattan grounds are said to be 2^ miles long, and are occupied by the Btructures and grounds about two vast hotels — the " Manhattan " and the " Ori- ental." The former is at the terminus from the railroad to New York and Brooklyn, and at the western end of the beach, nearest Brighton. This is one of the largest hotels in the world, and after one has seen the throngs which contend SEASIDE RESORTS. 303 for places at the tables set in its acre or so of dining-room, and on its broad piazzas, the statement that 8700 persons can be fed here at one time, does not seem improbable. The beach in front of the hotel is j^rotected by a piled break- water which has thus far withstood pretty well the encroachments of the devouring sea. A planked walk is built upon these jjiles and seats are placed there, in the full face of the ocean. Between this esplanade and the ocean a broad sjjace of asphalted walks, lawns and flower-beds is arranged, with a great number of park benches, and here one may stroll or sit at ease, with the ocean on one hand and the gay bustle of the hotel piazzas on the other. Immediately in front of the hotel is a sort of out-door theatre-shed, in which Gilmore's band, sitting inside a vast concavity which acts as a sounding-board, discourses music, afternoons and evenings. An admittance fee of 10 cents (with 25 cents for a reserved seat on special occasions) is charged; but the music can be fairly heard outside; and when it mingles with the booming of a heavy surf the effect is singular and im- pressive. A few rods down the beach are the bathing-houses, — one for men and one for women, — which contain no less than 2700 rooms and all possible conveni- ences. Bathing suits are let at 25 cents a piece, and the safe-keeping of valuables IS provided for. Here (as also is the case at Brighton) the bathing is protected from public gaze, by the walls and fences of the bathing establishment; but a payment of 10 cents will admit one to a pavilion overlooking the water in which hundreds of persons may be plunging about at once, under the watchful eye of life-savers and boatmen. In the rear of the hotel is the club-house of the Coney Island Jockey Club, whose race-track at Shee])shead Bay is only a short distance inland (See AMUSEMp;Nrs — Raciitg) and an enormous structure for the display of pyrotechnic e.xhibitions, etc. Except a picturesque kiosk for the sale of drugs, confectionery, cigars, etc., nothing disturbs the unity and elegance of the pleasure- grounds around the hotel. Half a mile eastward, and connected with the Manhattan by a broad walk and series of lawns is the great Oriental Hotel, with its own esplanade and bathing establishment. This hotel is nearly 500 feet in length and its four stories are crowned by peaked roofs, towers and spires in a most fantastic way. It is almost entirely patronized by permanent guests with long pocket-books, for its prices are beyond the means of ordinary mortals ; but if you are brave and have your best coat on you may walk past it without fear to the pleasant point of land at the eastern extremity of Coney Island, or even take a few steps on its piazza, just to see how it feels to be under the same roof with such stunning affluence. Manhattan Beach at night, when hundreds of electric lamps and thousands of gas jets are flooding the scene with radiance, and the moon is turning to silver and snow the heaving plain and bursting surf of the sea, is something long to be remembered. Two or three times a week a bewildering display of red light and fireworks takes place in the enclosure behind the grounds, where the palaces of Rome or Babylon fall into fiery wreck, or Pompeii disappears under the flaming hail and lava streams of Mr. Kiralfy's mock Vesuvius; but it is a question whether it is better to pay 25 cents and be given a hard bench close by the catas- trophe, or to stay by the *' loud-resounding sea " and watch these awful conflagra- tions from a comfortable distance. 304 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Routes to Manhattan. — Manhattan may be reached from New York, as has been described, by coming through West End and Brighton, from the steamboat landing, by the Culver railroads, or through the city of Brooklyn. The direct routes, however, are by the Manhattan Beach Railway, from the James Slip or the E. 34th St. ferry, in New York, to Hunter"^ Point, and thence by rail direct to Manhattan; or by rail, direct from the Long Island R. R. station in Brooklyn (Atlantic and Flatbush avs.) ; or by the King's County or the Brooklyn Elevated R. R., from the Bridge to East New York, and thence by rail. All these routes converge into one in the outskirts of Brooklyn, and both open and drawing-room cars are run upon the trains, which move with great speed. The fare is 50 cents for a round-trip ticket from New York, which ticket may be exchanged for one to return by the way of the Culver Route, from West Brighton to Bay Ridge, and steamboat to the Battery. Trains are run half-hourly during the day in summer, and the last one leaves Manhattan at 10 : 30 p. m., and West Brighton somewhat later. Rockaway. — The next beach east of Coney Island, from which it is separated by the outlet of Jamaica Bay, is Rockaway. It is divided into two parts, the near- est of which (about 20 miles from New York), is Rockaway Beach. This is one of the oldest seaside resojts on the Long Island shore, and may be reached either by the Long Island R. R. from Long Island City (E. 34th St. ferry), or by steam- boat. The latter route carries by far the greater number of excursionists, and the steamers used are the largest known. Their hours of sailing and the various piers at which they touch, going and coming, are daily advertised. The route is down the harbor, through the Narrows, out past Sandy Hook into the open sea, and along the shore of Coney Island, whose towers, elephant, hotels, and railway struc- tures make a gay and picturesque scene along the water's edge, and so on into an inlet which forms a harbor in the rear of Rockaway Beach. The tiip occupies about one and a half hours, and one has about four hours to stay on the shore. Here are four piers, the railway station, a cluster of small hotels, and the empty shell of the biggest hotel on the face of this earth, which failed for want of patron- age, and brought to an end the elaborate scheme of improvement which had been begun by its projector. Rockaway has lost the elegance and ])restige which belonged to it a quarter of a century ago, before the Brighton and Manhattan hotels and beaches were con- structed. The place is now the resort of those who need or prefer to take their amusement cheaply, and are not too particular as to fashionable tone. The gen- eral as])ect at all four landings is much like that at the West ILnd of Coney Island, lacking, however, its crowd and vivacity. Frail and fantastic wooden pavilions, for dancing, drinking beer, and eating, abound on every hand, and there is little to choose between them in point of excellence. Clams and fish are plentiful and good, well cooked, but rather roughly served ; but the prices are moderate. There is a mechanical museum, and street-venders sell toys and notions of many kinds. The dancing platforms are always in request by the class of ])eople who visit the ]5lace, and the-scra|5ing of the fiddle and the tones of pianos, made wheezv bv salt air, mingle incessantly with the roar of the surf. The ocean beach, which is only SEASIDE RESORTS. 305 a few luinJied yards from the steamboat landings, and a less distance from the railway stations, is a magnificent stretch of hard sand, exposed to the whole weight of the in-rolling Atlantic. Life-lines extend into the water at intervals, and thou- sands of people in uncouth bathing-dresses roll, tumble and scream with delight. Bathing houses line the shore, where dresses and a room may be obtained for 25 cents. Should the ocean surf be dangerously heavy, a still-water bath may be taken on the inlet side. This beach is also accessible from Brooklyn by the Long Island R. R., and by the Canarsie R. R., and connecting steamboats on Jamaica Bay. Far Rockaway is the village at the eastern end of the beach, where it joins the mainland. It contains several good hotels and boarding-houses, and no excursionists invade its quiet. It is reached Ijy railroads from Long Island City or Brooklyn, or by steamer and rail via Rockaway Beach ; but offers no attraction to the mere sight-seer. Long Beach. — The next beach east of Rockaway is a stretch of sand facing the ocean, clear and solitary except for the splendid great hotel of the Long Beach Iinprove?ne7it Coftipany, in which the Long Island R. R. Company is interested, and which is a terminus of one of their branches. This is an immense and admi- rable hotel, designed for families who mean to remain for some weeks at a time on the shore. It is the resort of politicians and men of affairs and of wealth, and cares little for the patronage of the excursionist. Glen Island, in Long Island Sound is a favorite place forspending a day by the shore, and is described in the chapter on the Rivers and Harbor (p. 183). Coast of New Jersey. The seaside resorts upon the coast of New Jersey are a little more distant than those on the south shore of Long Island, and hence are less patronized — with the exception of Long Branch — by the one-day excursionists ; but the tourist bent upon seeing the metropolis in summer will find it well worth his while to visit some if not all of the places hereafter mentioned. The principal points of interest, as far down as Barnegat Bay, are these : Sandy Hook, The Highlands, Seabright, Monmouth Beach, Long Branch, Elberon, Deal Beach, Asburv Park, Ocean Grove, Ocean Beach, Sea Girt, Point Pleasant, Bay Head. The following information as to the means of reaching these points by rail is furnished to the public by the Central Railroad of New Jersey, which owns or operates (in some cases jointly with the Pennsylvania R. R. Company) all of the plexus of railways knitting together the towns and beaches of that part of the state. One may go thither fr.om the terminus of the Pennsylvania R. R., Jersey City : but that route is around inland, via Rahway. It is therefore pleasanter to make the trip by the Central R. R., whose New York terminus and ferry is at the foot of 3o6 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Liberty st., North River. This route follows the shore, via Ijergcn I'oiiU, the long bridge across Newark Bay, the Amboys and Mattawan to the beaches. 'I'his company also owns the Sandy Hook route, the most delightful and lu.xuri- ous route to the Jersey coast resorts, the trip being in itself an exhilarating recreation. A fleet of the finest steamers leaving New York, including the fastest boat on the bay, ply between the foot of Rector st. and the Hook. " A stranger can on this trip, familiarize himself with all the beauties of the harbor and bay — can see the statue of Liberty, the Narrows, Coney Island, and the Quarantine islands, and observe the fleet of yachts, merchantmen, and of coast- wise and ocean steamers which form a maritime procession of never-ceasing, ever- varying interest. The commuter, who has seen all these things many times, can breathe in the strong salt air which, after a hot day in the city, acts like a tonic. As soon as the steamers leave New York, the sujjerintendent at .Sandy Hook is informed by telegraph of the number of jiassengers aboard, and the train at Sandy Hook is made up accordingly, so that the railroad accommodations are ample. The train, after running for a short distance through the woods on Sandy Hook,, emerges upon the beach in full view of the ocean on one side and the Navesink River on the other, so that the railroad trip from the Hook is cool and refreshing." Tickets between New York and stations on the N. Y. and Long Branch R. R., from Long Branch to Point Pleasant inclusive, are good on the Sandy Hook route or the trains of either the Central R. R. of New Jersey or of the Pennsylvania R. R., whether issued by the Central R. R. of New Jersey, the Pennsylvania R. R., the New York and Long Branch R. R., or the New Jersey Southern Railway. Sandy Hook has been described in the chapter on the Harbor. Its interest for the sight-seer lies mainly in the shipping and yachts he is likely to find near there, and in the government ordnance and other scientific stations there. In the protected cove, called the Horseshoe, where the steamboat lands at the railway wharf, excellent fishing is to be had, and also from the government wharf and from the jetties north of the fort. The bathing in comparatively still water inside, or in the surf on the outer beach, is of the best kind. No hotel exists, but excur- sionists can get meals on the steamboats. The railway runs along the sand spit, or neck, with Spermacetti Cove (an ancient whaler's refuge) on the right and the open Atlantic close on the left, to Highland Beach, an excursion and bathing resort, especially intended for family parties, where there is a restaurant. This beach is connected by a bridge with the Highlands of Navesink, the special interest of which lies in the twin light- house towers, and their accompaniments, which have stood upon this height since 1828, and were preceded by beacons a century older. This structure, includ- ing the semaphore for signalling the arrival of vessels, etc., which preceded the use of the telegraph, is extremely interesting; and the view it affords, embracing all SEASIDE RESORTS. 307 the lower harbor and the Long Island shore, is one of the grandest marine pictures in the world. This is a good standpoint from which to watch the ocean yacht races. The hotels here are in the town of Atlantic Highlands, on Sandy Hook Bay, where the Grand View ($3.50) and the Bay View and Windsor ($2.50) are in the lead. The rough but picturesque villages of clani-diggers along the beaches of the Navesink river, which " makes in "south of the Highlands, will prove highly en- tertaining to persons from the interior. Navesink Beach (with its U- S. Life-Saving Station), Normandie, and Rumson beaches are bathing and boating stations along the outer strand opposite the mouth of Navesink River — a region full of histori- cal associations and literary interest, as readers of Cooper's sea-storie-- will recall. Seabright is the first of the line of fashionable watering-places. Its improve- ment is of recent date, and it has become one of the gayest of summer resorts, since a large number of costly cottages, owned by wealthy men from New York, Philadelphia, etc., have been built. The grounds about them are sodded and planted with shrubbery and flowers, and every means of outdoor amusement is provided. The principal hotels are the Normandie, Octagon and Seabright ($4.00), and the Peninsula and Shrewsbury ($3.50). Near by are Nanvoo, a quaint old clamming and fishing conunuuity, and the Shrewsbury Rocks, long famous for good fishing. The headland opposite is Rumson Neck, which lies as a peninsula between Navesink River on the north and Shrewsbury River south of it. It ter- minates in a bluff inhabited in summer by cottagers and boarders from the city. The Neck is traversed by pretty drives, one of -which goes out to the edge of the bluffs and commands an exceedingly fine view of the sea and the foreground beaches. Carriages may be hired at Red Bank (a large town on the Central Rail- road of New Jersey, at the head of Navesink River), or at Seabright, which is connected with Rumson Neck, and the summer village of Oceanic (Pavilion Hotel) near its extremity, by a bridge. At Redbank, the Globe and other hotels charge '5;2.oo a day. The next important station is Monmouth Beach. — "In 1871," says Gustav Kobbe, whose excellent little book The Neiu Jersey Coast and Pines should be in every traveller's hands, " there were only two houses between Seabright and North Long Branch, a distance of over three miles. Now there are so many summer residences on this portion of the coast, that there is scarcely a stretch of a few hundred yards without a cottage, and scarcely a foot that does not show evidence of the improvements made by the Monmouth Beach Association." There is, however, no general hotel, and the pat- ronage of excursionists is not encouraged. These must content themselves with admiring its lordly privacy from the windows of the cars, and pass on to the cele- brated show-place of this coast, — Long Branch. — The name is derived from that long ago given to a narrow southern inlet from Shrewsbury River ; and the place was a favorite resort for summer visitors to the seaside (particularly those from Philadeljjhia) a century 3o8 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. ago. A large hotel, The Bath, was elected there fifty years ago, upon the site now occupied by Hotel Scarboro. The present hotels at Long Branch are : Hollywood, West End, Howland, Scarboro, Brighton, Ocean and United States, at $4.00 a day; and a dozen or more others at lesser rates down to $1.50 a day. Mr. Kobbe's admirable characterization of this far famed resort is so complete and perspicuous that it must be quoted in large part : "The Long Branch of to-day is a sea-shore cosmopolis. The features which attract the vast summer throng to it probably repel as many, if not more, from it, a circumstance to which the majority of the more rational resorts on the coast doubtless owe their origin. The leading characteristics of Long Branch may be described in one sentence : It is the only resort on the coast which supports a synagogue; the 'tiger' has two superbly appointed jungles: it is ' fashionable ' in the sense in which the word is used by those who fondly imagine that lavish dis- play of wealth is evidence of high social position. It may be judged from the foregoing that Long Branch is not a place whither a circumspect parent would take his family for a quiet summer by the sea ; but for those who like to be in the whirl of a ' fashionable ' watering-place it is without a rival, as it is also for the cynic who enjoys drawing his own conclusions anent the maddening crowd as it gads by. Yet, as there are islands in a rushing, roaring stream, so there are some spots in Long Branch where the noisy throng has not intruded." But those who would not care to live at Long Branch may find interest enough to tempt them to one or more day's stay there. A line of steamers, supplemented by many irregular excursions lands its passengers at the Iron Pier, which extends 800 ft. out to deep water, at a height of 20 ft. above the tide. The base of this pier rests upon Ocean Avenue, a part, five miles long, of the " beach drive " which runs from Sandv Hook to Barnegat Bay. " Ocean avenue toward evening is prob- ably the liveliest thoroughfare in the United States. Here one can see almost every kind of vehicle — stages crowded with excursionists, buggies drawn by swift roadsters, tandems, four-in-hands, T-carts, etc., many of them perfectly appointed, and each interesting in its own way, as representing one of the many types of peo- ple to be found at this resort. Among the turnouts are many from the resort north and south of Long Branch, whose residents doubtless look with quiet amuses ment upon much of what they see. Underneath the Iron Pier is an extensive public bathing beach, with all suitable facilities, where at the bathing-hour (announced near full tide by the hoisting of a white flag on the hotels), hundreds and sometimes thousands of persons may be seen bobbing in the surf. Thev are carefully watched by life-savers in boats on the line beyond the surf, and should bathing be dangerous none are permitted to enter the water. Restaurants and places for amusement of various kinds are open for the benefit of day-visitors. Included under the general name are Branchport and Long Branch Village, old farming settlements inland ; North and East Long Branch ; Pleasure Bay, where Price's hotel and boat houses are situated ; Oceanport and West End, — the latter the southernmost and most aristocratic part of the district. Close by Long SEASIDE RESORTS. 309 Branch village are the great race courses of Moiniionth Park, where, in past years, some of the most important races in the history of the American Turf have been run. Lately this course has declined in importance (see Amusements — Racuig) but new and very extensive additions to the grounds and accomodations have been made, and since the new Park was opened by conspicuous trials of speed on July 4, 1S90, it is exi^ected that the former prestige of the course will be regained. In its vicinity are the many stud farms and other interesting features of Eatontown and Little Silver. A continuation of Long Branch southward (and the next railway station) is Elberon. — It was elaborately laid out by its original owners as a refined cottage- district, and gives no invitation to excursionists, though possessing a large and expensive hotel (the Elberon). " Among the handsome residences of this place is the Francklyn cottage, rendered famous as the refuge to which President Ciarfield was brought, and where he was lulled to his final sleep by the murmur of the sea. General Grant's former summer home is also at Elberon." Deal Beach, just below Elberon, and on the border of Deal Lake, promises to grow into a popular place for summer residences of a more moderate degree of cost and display, but it has not many inhabitants. Its hotels are the Hathaway ($3) and Allen ($2). An adjacent district is called Interlaken. Asbury Park and North Asbury Park come next, and are separated only by a narrow fresh-water lake, while both also face the ocean. This popular resort is really an outgrowth of Ocean Grove, the land having been bought and platted by a capitalist who was moved to do so by the fear that it might fall into hands inimical to the religious objects held in view at the great camp-meeting grounds just below. He named it after Bishop Asbury, the pioneer bishop of the Methodist Church in America, and his title deeds prohibit liquor making or liquor selling. Extensive improvements of the wilderness of sand and pines were at once undertaken, and the excellent management exercised by its promoters has met with a large and well-deserved success. The summer population now reaches 30,000, and a beauti- ful village, with hard and thoroughly drained roads, good sidewalks and paths, hundreds of hotels, business houses, boarding houses and cottages, churches, banks, newspapers, an opera-house, a library and lecture hall, electric lights, public water, and a plank walk a mile long on the sea beach, connecting with the esplanade of Ocean Grove, has arisen where twenty years ago was little or nothing. The people here are not of the pretentious wealth and social prominence of those at Monmouth Beach and Seabright nor are there manv representatives of the pushing and sometimes vulgar " aristocracy" of Long Branch ; but, on the other hand they are a more rational, well-to-do and livelier population than that wliich frequents the academic walks of Ocean Grove, and though they cannot drink fiery spirits are not averse to milder stimulants, and dance, flirt, and other- wise make as merry as the gayest. There are said to be 200 hotels and boarding houses, an increasing number of which remain open during the winter, when foiir 310 GUIDE TO NEW VORk' CITY. or five thousand people continue to inhabit the village and enjoy a comparatively mild and equable climate. The hotels at Asbury Park are the Coleman ($4), West End ($3.50), Atalanla, Belvedere, Brunswick, Colonnade and Continental ($2 to %l), and a number of others at less rates per day. Separated from Asbury Park only by an insignificant inlet, is Ocean Grove, a seaside town under the control of an association of Methodist clergymen, which owes its origin to the need of larger space and better accomoda- tions for the annual summer camp-meetings formerly held at Vineland, N. J. This site, in 186S, was almost totally uninhabited — a waste of beach and sand-dunes overgrown with small trees. Purchases of land were made and a permanent relig- ous resort was started, which has now become firmly established and widely pop- ular among the classes of people it appeals to. The object in view of its founders was to establish a school and nursery of religious influence, where people would be attracted to remain for rest and out-door recreation. To this end, and in order that nothing should contravene this religious influence, the strictest regulations as to moral conduct, judged from an evangelical standpoint, were laid down and are maintained. The result of this religio-social experiment where some 30,000 peo- ple voluntarily place themselves, during their vacation season, under a purely autocratic government, has been so extraordinary, as Kobbe remarks, that the place merits the careful examination even of those whose convictions or sense of individual dignity and independence revolt against such a form of admin- istration. Everything has been done to further the exclusiveness, not only, but the devo- tional spirit of the place. On the north it is guarded against the world by Wesley and another lake, crossed only by foot-bridges ; the western side is defended by a strong fence, while the southern boundary is protected by Fletcher Lake. The streets are named after localities prominent in sacred history or after the fathers of the Methodist Church, and the largest buildings in the place are the great Auditorium, the Tabernacle, intended mainly for "holiness" meetings, the Young People's Temple, and a huge topographical model of modern Jerusalem. So many association meetings, anniversaries and religious conventions or special services are held, in addition to the daily stated meetings for preaching, prayer or praise, that they are said to average sixteen a day during the two midsummer months, and the effort at religious revival is incessant. Almost the only allowable amusements, among those customary at the seaside, are boating on the freshwater lakes and surf-bathing. The latter is now strictly regulated and policed, for strangely enough, the sisters and brethren of this good community permitted themselves such indiscreet, not to say scandalous, behavior while enjoying the waves and strolling along the beach or through the town in their bathing suits, as SEASIDE RESORTS. 31 r really to surprise and shock not only the Elders (who might be suspected of having supersensitive eyes) but even the most worldly of visitors. The bathing houses are massed in huge pavilions at each end of the sea beach, where a broad space has been reserved by the Association, and the plank walk is thronged at all hours with strollers. Bathing suits may be hired, or a bathing house may be rented. Carriages are charged for at the rate of $2 for the first hour and $1 for succeeding hours: and boats at 25 cents an hour. The hack fare from the railway station is 10 cents. Tents, with simple furniture, may be rented and set upon the grounds. An excursion (return) ticket from New York to Ocean Grove or Asbury Park, costs I11.85, single fare, $1.20. The leading hotels at Ocean Grove are : Sheldon ($3 to $4) ; Arlington, Atlantic, La Pierre and Seaside ($2.50 to ^3); United States, Waverly ($2), besides a score or more of lesser ones. " It is chiefly in the regulations by which it protects the ends for which it was founded, that Ocean Grove is most distinguished from other resorts. In order to maintain control over the character of the population, no lot is sold outright, but only leased for 99 years, with privilege of renewal. The lease carries with it the burdens of ownership in the way of taxation, improvements and repairs, and the privileges of ownership, including sale of lease during satisfactory tenancy and the fulfillment of the proviso that no liquor be sold nor any nuisances created on the premises. No person shall keep pigs or chickens, nor dogs, unless licensed and muzzled; and a large number of occupations require a license. No theatrical or other like entertainment is allowed, nor the distribution of handbills and adver tisements of the same, under penalty; nor is it lawful ' for any organ-grinder, pack-peddler, scissors-grinder, hand peddler, or person having for sale or selling anything in a push-cart, rag-gatherer, or for any person engaged in similar pursuits, or for any person exhibiting shows of any kind, to pursue their calling within the premises of the Association.' The penalty is a fine or imprisonment. The sale of tobacco under any form is strictly forbidden, under penalty, and smoking is not permitted in the neighborhood of the camp-meeting grounds. Spirituous liquors are forbidden, under severe penalties, excepting under very strict regulations by the druggists. By special act of the Legislature, this prohibition extends for a statute mile from the limits of Ocean Grove. With the tabooed potables are included 'such seemingly innocent liquids as Schiedam .Schnapps, Tolu, Rock and Rye, Wild Cherry, Rock and Bitters, Tippecanoe and the various so-called bitters, which are preparations put up as medicine, but really intoxicating stimulants.' No carriages are permitted on the beach, no velocipedes, bicycles or wheelbarrows on the plank-walks, and it is forbidden 'to discharge any cannon or other piece of artillery, or small-arms, guns or pistols, rockets, squibs, fire-crackers, or other fire-works, within the limiti* of said Association.' No swearing is permissible in the boats, where, it is presumed, parties might be inclined to indulge in unseemly speech, out of earshot of the Association. An efficient police is employed day and night to exclude tramps or other unsuitable persons, and enforce the other regulations. The gates are closed at 10 p. m. and all day on the Sabbath, when no one can enter except by the bridges, which are carefully Avatched, and only those desiring to attend services can then cross, paying no tolls, l)ut liable to a fine of $10 if crossing for other purposes. No papers can be sold on Sunday, nor, by agreement with the authorities of Asbury Park, within one block of the Asbury 312 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. end of the bridges. No boats are used on that day, no wheeled vehicles can be seen in the streets, no milk is distributed, and even the physicians, though sum- moned to the bed of the dying, must go on foot. It is needless to add, that no trains stop there on the Sabbath, nor at Asbury Park. Of course no bathing is permitted on the Sabbath." — Kobbe. With Asbury Park and Ocean Grove the popular attraction of the New Jersey coast pertaining to New York, really ends. Next below Ocean Grove is Key East, a nev/ settlement on Shark River, famous for its oysters and crabs, which is growing into favor. A religious " Seaside Assembly " and an " American Institute of Christian Philosophy" have residences and annual sessions there, and a summer home for crippled orphans is maintained bv the Protestant Episcopal Church. Avon Inn ($3 to $4), and Berwick Lodge ($3) are the foremost hotels. Ocean Beach, a short distance beyond, has one of the most beautiful locations upon this coast, lying along a narrow strip between the sea and Shark River. The sport to be had from fishing and crab-catching, boating and bathing, is nowhere excelled. The ruins of the once celebrated Allaire Ironworks form the object of a delightful drive from this place, or from the resorts south of it. The principal hotels are : Columbia, ($4), Brunswick ($3), Nejitune ($2.50), and there are sev- eral others. Lake Como is a new and small place just beyond. Spring Lake takes its name from the sheet of fresh water in its center, and is largely patronized by Philadelphians; it is a quiet and pretty spot, with excellent boating; three hotels, Essex, Susse.x and Monmouth, each charge $3 to $4 a day. Sea Girt is not a cottage town, but a place for picnics and excursionists, who come mainly from Philadelphia and inland towns, to the many hotels and restau- rants that border upon the bathing beach. On the second Saturday in August, a vast assemblage of farmers in wagons meets here, and indulges in a monster clam- bake ; but the piquancy of the "doings" has been much toned down by the mod- ern conventionality of summer visitors from the city. Manasquan and Brielle, a few miles below, are new places for cottagers ; but in Point Pleasant, on the south side of Manasquan River, we have another summer resort, like Sea Girt, where there are many hotels and excursion parties, as well as permanent cottagers. At Bay Head, two miles south of Point Pleasant, Barnegat Bay is reached, and the seashore line of railroad terminates. Suburban Points of Interest. LONG ISLAND. Eastern End. — It is about 115 miles from the East River to the eastern ex- tremity of Long Island at Montauk Point. The island is only a dozen miles in breadth, however, and its eastern end is deeply indented by the waters of Gardi- ner's and Peconic Bays. Around these bays, and on Shelter Island, in the latter, ..^v^^iMA^jfu -. SEASIDE RESORTS. 313 are several villages — Greenport, Southold, Riverhead, Sag Harbor, etc., which are deservedly beloved as summer resorts, and where large preparations have been made to receive visitors and summer residents. Some of these towns are among the oldest settlements in the United States, and are full of quaint relics of two centuries ago. Amagansett, Southampton, East Hampton (where Howard Payne, author of " Home, Sweet Home " lived), are on the southern side of that end of the Island, near the ocean, and full of sea-scenes and traditions. The Long Island R. R. runs fast and elegant trains to these points, and no excursion would yield more pleasure to the visitor from the interior than the one to this part of Long Island, with rambles on foot, or by stage, from one quaint village, fashionable hotel, or fishing station to another. It is a great place for yachting, boating, crab- bing, fishing and sea-fare, and has often been pictured and described, most suc- cessfully, perhaps, in the articles and illustrations by the Tile Club, to be found in The Century Magazine for February, 1882. The present writer contributed to Harper'' s Magazine for October, 1878, an article entitled "Around the Peconics," covering all this regions which was illustrated by Abbey and Rinehart, and from which the ensuing extracts are made : South Shore. — The whole south shore of Long Island is protected from the strength of the ocean by beaches, which extend in an almost continuous line from Coney Island, the western end of which juts into New York Bay, to the semblance of bluffs at Sag Harbor. They are all alike — narrow banks of shifting sand scarcely elevated above the level of the tides, on the outer side of which the surf beats with endless diligence, and within which shallow bays separate them from the marshy shores. Westwardly the barrier is broken at short intervals by frequent inlets, and the islands thus formed receive distinct names — such as Coney Island, named after the vast abundance of " conies " found there by the discov- erers; Barren Island, whose desert character is only heightened by the disgusting fish-oil factories; Hog Island, where the earliest settlers of Hempstead, in 1660 or thereabouts, made a public pasture for their pigs; Manhattan and Rockaway. " Westwardly the inclosed waters, such as Jamaica and Hempstead bays, are of no importance, being full of sandy bars and marshy islands ; but after the thousand and one islands of the latter are ]nissed, comes a splendid lagoon of open water six or seven miles wide and forty miles long, known to all the world as the Great South Bay. Who has not heard of Eire Island and its light-house?— the first beacon that shines out of America upon the voyager who is shaping his course for New York.' of the Surf Hotel and its marvellous chowders.' of the Great South Beach and its reminiscenses of wrecks, told in the curious old bar at Captree, where the dampness of the sea fog is warded off bv the most miscellaneous of mixed drinks? All these wonderful places are on the Great South Bay. It is there, too, that city sportsmen most often go for a day's or a week's gunning. Abundantly on the meadows during the spring migrations, and all summer on the outer beaches, various snipes and sandpipers resort, laying their eggs high up in the sand, and picking their food between tide-marks. . . . But the main sport is to 314 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. be had in the autumn and winter, when the hosts of wild fowl — geese, swans, ducks — and the bay birds — curlew, snipe, plover — come winging their way from their arctic breeding grounds to winter homes on our warmer coast. In November, per- haps, the most water-fowl are to be found on the Great South Bay, after which the more tender ones pass further south; but, unless the weather is very boisterous, large numljers remain all winter. . . . " The fishing begins in early spring, when the ice goes out, and the nets can be set. . . . Late in April the flounders go out into the deeper water, and then are caught with hook and line, which is great sport, after which comes blue-fishing in May, and that is greater fun. Get a ten-pound blue-fish on the far end of your line, pulling one way, while your yacht is carrying you swiftly through the curling waves in the opposite direction, and you will need both adroitness and muscle to secure your prize. " In one respect the fame of the Great South Bay is becoming a thing of the past. Among the Indians it was famous for the abundance of sickissuog, which we call clams ; and until recently it was thought the supply was inexhaustible. . . . The oyster business has been better managed. The soft bottom and sheltered coves of the bay made it a fine place for these bivalves, and until thirty-five years ago the natural catch was sufficient for the demand. Since then, however, the reg- ular planting of oysters in appropriated beds has been pursued, having been begun at Patchogue. This industry is successfully increasing, and even now the annual production of cultivated oysters in the bay is said to amount to $500,000, many being sent to Europe. One doesn't know how good an oyster really is till he eats it just out of the shell at Bay Shore or Blue Point. "The villages along the shore are clean and bright with new paint and prosper- ity, but they are not picturesque. The country fishing hamlets of Bellport, Fire- place (a favorite spot for aboriginal clambakes, tradition asserts), Moriches, and Speonk, where you strike the Sag Harbor branch of the railway." A railway line (from the Atlantic Av. Station, Brooklyn, or from foot of E. 34th St., New York), extends along the Great South Bay, and frequent trains are run. The principal stations in succession are, Babylon, Islip, Sayville, Bay Shore and Patchogue. From Babylon a ferry runs to Fire Island. Between Bay Shore and Patchogue, at the eastern extremity of the bay, lie the great oyster grounds, whence come the small Blue Point oysters, which take their name from a little cape where they were first gathered and afterward cultivated. East of the Great South Bay lies the large, shallow island-studded Inlet called Jamaica liay, at the head of which are the broad prairies of the Hempstead Plains. Canarsie, noted for its clambakes is on its shore. The protecting sand- spit which runs from the mouth of Jamaica Bay eastward is Long Beach. Then come in order, Rockaway, Manhattan, Brighton and Coney Island beaches, else- v/here described. The railways to the South Shore all pass through Garden Cil)\ a town of new, fine houses on the open Hempstead Plains, which will remind western travellers of some new prairie city. It was founded by A. T. Stewart, who intended it to be a model suburb for the residence of New York business men, but for some reason this purpose never met with the expected response. A beautiful SEASIDE RESORTS. 315 and costly Anglican cathedral has been built there, which was consecrated in 1885^ and was generously endowed by Mr. Stewart's gifts and legacies. An Episcopal residence was added by Mrs. Stewart, and here lives the bishop of the Diocese of Long Island. The length of the cathedral is 270 feet, its transept 75 feet, and its nave about 60 feet. The oigan it contains is the largest in the world. It has 115 stops and 7,252 pipes, and cost $100,000. Underneath the cathedral is the mauso- leum, said to be the most elaborate of the kind in this country. Garden City is 18 miles from New York. The quaint and pleasant village of Jamaica, 11 miles from New York, is passed through en route, and is worth a few moments stoppage, if convenient. North Shore. — The northern shore of Long Island, facing Long Island Sound, is less thickly settled aTid less interesting than the southern margin. A railway line skirts it, with stations at Flushing, Whitestoiie, Bayside, Glen Cove and Roslyn (by branch), Huntington, Northport and some smaller places. Oysters ar*; extensively cultivated in the little bays and a small ship-building goes on steadily Northpoi-t is a queer little place, with a long history and many attractions for artists; Glen Cove is noted for its starch and other factories; at Roslyn lived the poet, Wm. Cullen Bryant; Sea Cliff is a pretty summer resort, perclied upon high sand-cliffs and surrounded by woods. Great religious campmeetings are held there annually. Bayside is a charming spot on the shore of Little Neck Bay (whence came originally the small round clams termed " Little Necks"); it is connected with Flushing by a beautiful drive, four miles in length. lVillet''s Point is a headland and fortification (see p. 183) dividing Little Neck Bay from Great Neck Bay and marking the mergence of East River into the Sound; opposite it is another fortification named Fort Schuyler. The Point is a depot for engi- neer's stores and material, and headquarters of the liattalion of Engineers, U. S. A., and is garrisoned by troops of that battalion. Torpedoes are planted in front of it, and the great sign "Don't Anchor here,'' attracts the attention of all passengers on the Sound steamboats. Flushing is an old and prosperous town, settled in early times by Hollanders. It is only ten miles from New York and a large part of its citizens do business there. It is a port upon the Sound, and was the scene of important military oper- ations and a battle during the Revolution. Steamboats ply between all these North-shore villages and New York. Flatbush, Newtmvn, Middle Village, Canarsie, Gravesend and East N'ew York are merely suburbs of Brooklyn. Long Island City, Hunter's Point, Ra7'enswood and Astoria are united into a city under the former name, which lies north of Brooklyn, Newton Creek being the line of division. Here are the terminus, headquarters, shops, etc., of the Long Island R. R., which monopolizes traffic on the Island ; and here are a large 3i6 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. number of oil refineries, chemical works, and other evil-smelling factories, which have given to Hunter's Point a national reputation for unsavorine?:' T' Ravenswood district, north of Hunter's Point, is somewhat better; and Astoria, which stretches along the East River above Hell Gate for a mile or more, has costly and handsome residences whose gardens come down to the shore. The name comes from the old country house of the Astors ; and many families of note used to dwell here, or still do so. It furnishes the bulk of the flowers brought to the markets and florists of the city. Bay Ridge, Bath and Besonhiwst are charmingly situated southern suburbs of Brooklyn, overlooking New York Harbor, and reached by ferries, as well as by horsecars. Westchester County. The hills and dales of Westchester County which joins New York County and city on the north, are densely populated and many pretty towns and villages may be counted. Yonkers is on the Hudson, and joins the northern limits of New York. It has 20,000 citizens, a great part of whom come regularly to business in the metropolis. Next eastward, covering the central hills is Mt. Vernon, a scat- tered town with stations on both the Hudson River and New Haven R. Rs., and many beautiful drives. wStill farther east is Westchester, a historic old place, likely to become more popularly known hereafter, through the crowds which will visit the great new race-track of the N. Y. Jockey Club, described under the head of Amusements. Eastchester and Pclham are hamlets at the head of inlets from Long Island Sound, and are traversed by the Harlem Branch of the New Haven R. R. New Rochelle, 17 miles from Grand Central Depot, on the New Haven R. R., is exceedingly pretty and popular with New Yorkers. It was settled in very early times by Huguenots, and preserves many interesting relics of its colonial period. The New Jersey Shore. Although in another state, and on the opposite side of the Hudson, the cities fronting upon the western side of the North River are an integral part of the Metropolitan District, since a great number of their inhabitants do business in New York and pass back and forth daily. These are Jersey City, Hoboken, West Hoboken, Gutenberg and Weehavvken, Jersey City. — This great town, which has absorbed several contiguous and once separate municipalities, now has 150,000 population and stretches from the harbor shore opposite the Liberty Statue, to the Hoboken line opposite the foot of Christopher st, New York ; and it reaches back to the Hackensack River and JERSEY CITY. 317 Meadows. Its front is low land, a large breadth of which has been reclaimed from the harbor, enclosing the great Communipaw Basin at the outlet of the Mor- i'js &"iissex Canal, in the rear of the terminus of the Central R. R. of New Jersey. Tl'iis low frontage, known originally as Paulus Hook (or Point) offered less induce- ment to the early settlers than other equally accessible districts near New Amster- dam, and was doubly exposed to Indian depredations. It was therefore slow to be settled and cultivated ; and the prejudice thus naturally begun has been unnat- urally continued in the minds of New Yorkers ever since. This feeling is intensi- fied by the fact that the traveller on any of the railways that pass through Jersey City sees only the forlornest streets ; and also by the fact that the town offers no ■ one special attraction to the public gaze. The water-front is for the most part in the possession of railway and steamship companies. Here are the termini of the systems of the New York, Lake Erie and Western, the Pennsylvania, and the Central New Jersey (Baltimore and Ohio) railways, with their many subsidiary lines (see Ferries), whose long depots and wharves line the shore and sometimes extend far out into the tide. Behind them are a great number of factories, some of immense proportions, — notably large glass works, crucible works, steel works, zinc works, locomotive works, boiler and machine shops, founderies, etc. The lofty piles of the sugar refineries form a conspicuous object near the cen- ter of the city, as one crosses from New York ; and the massive tobacco factories of the Lorillard Brothers (a short walk from Pennsylvania depot and ferry) make another notable feature in the view. The elevators nearer to the " Erie" wharves are also conspicuous. A mile back from the river-front the long rocky ridge of Bergen Heights — a continuation of the Hudson Highlands — extends north and south as an elevated peninsula between New York and Newark Bays, as far as the pretty village of Bergen Point ; and furnishes a fine building site for residences, where the windows overlook the panorama of the whole harbor. Upon this hill are many very pleasant streets and some fine churches and schools ; but the pub- lic buildings of the city, located there, are of mean appearance. Both the New Jersey Central and the Pennsylvania railways pass through this ridge by deep cuts which afford to mineralogists one of the best fields for collecting rarities known in the east; and the latter company, which now rushes several hundred trains a day through the city at an astonishing speed, is about completing an elevated viaduct of masonry and iron, which will extend from the Heights to the ferry and obviate all danger to pedestrians. The principal ferry entrance to Jersey City is at the foot of Montgomery St., connected by boat with Cortlandt and Desbrosses sts.. New York (Pennsylvania R. R. ferries). From here horsecars run southward to the extreme limits of Jersey City and to the New York Bay Cemetery — the principal burying ground of that region ; this district is also reached by the Central R. R. of New Jersey, 3i8 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. from Liberty st. New York. Other lines from " the ferry " in Jersey City, go up Montgomery st., past pretty Van Voorst Sq. (perpetuating the memory of the original owner of all the land in that vicinity) and along the southern part of the hill to the suburbs Lafayette, Greenville and Bayonne ; up Newark Av., the main business street, to the Court House on the Heights ; and northward to Ho- boken, and to the terminus of the N. Y., Lake Erie and Western R. R. and its associated lines in the northern edge of the city. This (the •" Erie ") station is at the foot of Pavonia av., and is connected with New York by direct ferries to 23d and to Chambers st. The trains pass under Bergen Ridge by a long tunnel. Jersey City is improving in many ways, but as yet has little or nothing to inter- est the ordinary sight-seer unless it be Taylor's Hotel. This famous hostelry is a large, unornamented building at the foot of Montgomery St., and within a minute's walk of the ferry and the Pennsylvania R. R. station. It was built about 1850, and for some years was distinguished principally as a sporting resort where many of the pugilists of the last generation met before and after the big " mills." During the war it was always crowded with army officers and politicians, many of the highest rank, making brief stoppages. But its pr(jx- imity to the city of New York, while under the jurisdiction of another state, has recommended to it its most notorious and profitable patronage. Eloping couples were always numerous there, and many a refugee from justice, or, more often, from the too pertinacious questioning of some court, has lived there a temporary ex- ile within sight of home. These, if gathered together, would make a strong army, with such leaders as Jim Fisk, Jay Gould, the Tweed conspirators and many more of almost equal prominence. Now it is the political headquarters of the state, and the scene of many banquets and honorary festivities. Hoboken. — North of Jersey City (Hobokeu av. is the dividing line) lies the very convenient but unlovely city of Hoboken. Its water-front is made by the wharves of several great trans-Atlantic steamer lines, particularly those sailing to the Ger- man ports, and by the station of the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western Ry. sys- tem. This ferries from Barclay and Christopher sts., New York (see Ferries). A ferry from W. 14th st., New York, also lands passengers at the riverside com- mons called the Elysian Fields, in the northern part of Hoboken. The population of Hoboken (30-40,000) is very largely German, and is devoted to manufacturing to a considerable extent. It has one distinctly American Institution, however, in the Stevens' Institute, which occupies a wooded promontory of rocks that juts out into the river conspicuously and is covered by a pretty park. This is a polytechnic and scientific school of high rank, founded by the late Commodore Stevens, who equipped the " Stevens Battery," famous in the early part of the Civil War ; and whose "castle " overtops the trees of what was formerly his estate. " Along the edge of this hill, with the river-bank on the right, is a promenade to the Elysian Fields, formerly a fine pleasure ground with stately trees and luxurious grass, but now sadly neglected and all but ruined. The promenade is the only one of the CITIES OF NEW JERSEY. 319 kind near New York, and even New-Yorkers with an eye for tlie picturesque, do not disdain to come over here on a fine summer Sunday afternoon, and enjoy the river-breeze under the shadow of the well wooded and extremely steep hill." Bergen Heights, behind and above the lowland part of Hoboken, are occupied by Hudson City, West Ilobckcn and Union Hill, constituting one municipality under the first name. It is an unprepossessing district, accessible by an elevated road from Hoboken Ferry to the top of the hill, whence horsecars radiate ; there is also a carriage road through Weehawken. On Union Hill, the northern part of the ridge, stand the monastery and triple- towered, gaudily decorated church, of the Romanist ascetic order Redemptorists. There, also, principal of the many beer-gardens scattered among this German pop- ulation, is the Scheutzen Park, — charmingly variegated grounds which were once the country-seat of an Englishman, who built him a picturesque stone house now used as headquarters of the Target-shooting Society which owns the grounds. Great picnics, shooting matches, etc., are frequently held here during the summer, the best one of which is the Volksfest, when many thousands of Germans throng the grove, amusing themselves with games, beer-drinking, music and social acquaintance. This park is half-an hour's ride from the ferry by horse-cars, or can be reached by the Northern New Jersey R. R. Guttenburg is on the hill next north of Hudson City (Union Hill), and more or less continuous with it. It is most easily reached by the ferry from the foot of \V. 42d St. Germans predominate, and an immense brewery, upon the roof of which is a beer-garden with a wide, cool prospect up and down the river, is the most notable feature of the place, except the winter race-course, described elsewhere- Weehawken is another little city, north of Hoboken and under the hill which here apjiroaches the water more closely than below. It was the scene of Revolu- tionary operations ; and here, a few years later, Alexander Hamilton and Aaron Burr fought the duel which cost the former his life. Now it is known principally as the terminus of the New York, West Shore and Buffalo, and the Ontario and Western railroads, and is connected with 42d st. and Jay St., New York, and with Brooklyn, by ferries. A pleasant walk may be had in summer along the Highlands, in and above Weehawken, which command beautiful views of the river, the bold shores and the great city, catch the coolest breezes, and are most easily accessible ; yet they are so thinly settled as to appear from the river almost deserted ; and few persons of social prominence have ever chosen that region as a residence, even upon the Palisades themselves. The reason for this, and for the fact that even Hoboken has been so largely relegated to obscure and socially inferior people, is not readily perceived ; and the time will come, no doubt, when a very different state of things shall be seen along that beautifiil shore. 320 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. Fort Lee, at the foot of the Palisades of the Hudson, and opposite the upper end of Manhattan Island, is a small village clustered about old Fort Lee, a forti- fication built by Washington, commanded by Greene and named after Gen. Charles Lee. It was evacuated soon after the British obtained possession of New York, and never did any service to either side. For many years this has been an excursion point and picnic ground, and gradually it became the resort of a rough element who would land there by the barge-load and hold noisy revels. A few years ago, an attempt was made by a company of capitalists to redeem the place, and prepare it for a pleasure resort acceptable to a good class of customers. A great hotel has been built, and abundant means of refreshment and amusement are provided, while the scale of prices is moderate. The surroundings of the spot are charming, and during the summer steamboats make hourly trips back and forth, from Canal, 24th and 34th sts , New York, while the ferry at W. 129th st. (readied by the 125th st. cable cars), runs all the year round; but fashion has never smiled upon the place, though the view from its Palisades is worth a much longer journey. Inland Towns of New Jersey. Newark is the largest city in New Jersey, only 9 miles from the City Hall, New York, and separated from Jersey City only by the salt meadows along the Hackensack River, which are gradually becoming populated, and where now ex- tensive railroad shops have grown up. It lies for the most part along the west bank of the Passaic River, from two to five miles above its debouching into New- ark Bay; and small steamers and sailing craft ascend to the city's wharves. It has now about 150,000 population, only a small portion of whom do business daily in New York, for, notwithstanding its proximity, Newark is self-contained in a greater degree than any other town near the metropolis, and can hardly be spoken of as a suburb of New York. Its history goes back to 1666, when it was settled by a colony of Connecticut people, who bought the site from the Indians. They wished to enjoy their form of worship (the Congregational) without interference, and came at the invitation of the liberal and far-seeing governor of New Jersey — Sir George Carteret. They enacted that no one could become a burgess of the town, or vote, unless he w.ts a member of the Congregational Church, but anyone else could enjoy all the other privileges of the community, which prospered steadily. The name is in honor of Newark, England. In 1721, they first quarried the freestone which long since became an im])ortant article of exj^ort, but it was not until after the war of i8r2 that a career of progress Ijegan. The city now covers 17I square miles of terri- tory. It is regularly laid out, with wide, straight streets, crossing each other at right angles. Broad St., the j^rincipal thoroughfare, is 120 ft. in width, and extends through the entire length of the citv. Bordering upon it are two beautiful )iublic squares called the Upper and Lower imrks, which are adorned with magnificent elm trees, as also are South Park, in the lower part of the town, and many of the fine roads leading out toward the hills of Orange, INLAND TOWNS OF NEW JERSEY. 321 The rapid growth of Newark is chiefly owing to its manufactures. These are very prosperous and widely diversified. They embrace almost every branch of industry, but particularly excel in jewelry, buttons and ornamental novelties, iron fabrics, India rubber goods, leather and leathern articles, drugs, clothing, hats, and in the production of malt liquors. The encouragement given to these factories by the city, the multiplied means of transportation by both land and water, and its contiguity to the great market of New York, has built up Newark into a vast workshop. The Pennsylvania, New York, Lake Erie and Western, New Jersey Central, and Delaware, Lackawanna and Western railroads pass through the city, each having several stations. The Pennsylvania, from Jersey City, is the most direct route ; round-trip fare, 35 cents. Elizabeth is another manufacturing city, a few miles south of Newark, and upon the shore of Newark Bay. It is almost continuous with Newark along Broad st., and is traversed by both the Pennsylvania and New Jersev Central railroads, on the route to Philadelphia. The name was given about 1664, when it was first settled, out of compliment to the wife of Sir George Carteret ; and for a century or more this was the capital and chief town in New Jersey. Hence many of its streets are shaded by fine old trees, and the residence portion of the town contains charmingly old-fashioned mansions, the homes of wealthy families. Here was founded the College of New Jersey, afterward established at Newark under the presidency of the father of Aaron ISurr, and subsequently removed to Princeton. During the Revolution Elizabeth was the scene of many stirring inci- dents ; and afterward witnessed the triumph of Washington, who came there to embark with much ceremony on his way to his inauguration in New York, in 1789, as the first President of the United States. The city now has a population of 25,000 and contains a large number of factories, foremost among which is the enormous establishment of the Singer Sewing Machine Company, which prac- tically supports the waterside suburb called EUzabethfort (see p. 200). Rahway is a pretty town of about 7000 people, five miles southwest of Elizabeth on the Pennsylvania R. R. It is the residence of many men doing business in New York, and is surrounded by orchards and fruit farms. The Rahway River, which empties into Staten Island Sound, is navigable to this point. New Brunswick, 12 miles beyond, and 32 miles from New York, is an inter- esting old plnce at the head of navigation on the Raritan River, where the Delaware and Raritan Canal begins its overland course to Trenton. There are many large factories there, but its chief interest to strangers lies in Rutger's College, — an old seat of learning under the care of the Dutch Reformed Church, which can be seen from the cars of the Pennsylvania R. R. as they cross the lofty bridge spanning the river and canal. South of Elizabeth, on the line of the N. J. Central R. R., the first stations are 322 GUIDE TO MEW YORK CITY. Perth Aniboy and South Aiiiboy, heretofore mentioned, followed by Matawan^ MidcUetcnvn, Red Bank 2iW^ Shrcu>slmry,\)^-^o\\A which lie Long Branch and the coast villages and pleasure resorts described in the next chapter. The Oranges, and the region generally north and west from Newark is the best known and most favorite district for suburban residences in the immediate neigh- borhood of the city. It is reached by the Morris and Essex line of the Delaware, Lackawanna & Western R. R., from Hoboken, and the stations are hardlj half a mile apart. These are, in succession, after leaving Newark, Grove st., East Orange, Brick Church, Orange, Mountain Station and South Orange. The last is fourteen miles from New York. The whole region, which is low and level near Newark, but gradually rises westerly into the Orange Hills, is highly cultivated and thickly set with the homes of men who, for the most part, go to New York every day. This suburb is more and more assuming a town-like appearance, aud its streets are continually advancing and connecting hitherto sejDa- rated villages, so that already " the Oranges " constitute one great and beautiful rural community of perhaps 50,000 people. At a greater distance, and somewhat northward, lie Blooiiificld, Llcwclly)! Park, the three Montclairs, and many lesser villages, closely clustered together among the hills, inhabited by New Yorkers, and served by frequent trains on one or another branch of the D. L. & W. or Erie R. R.'s. On the main line of the " Erie,"-(N. Y., L. E. and W. R. R.), which runs nearly north from Jersey City, are the Riitherfords and Passaic — the latter a factory town of 10,000 people. On the same river, a few miles higher up, and 17 miles from New York, is Paterson, a city of over 50,000 inhabitants. Its extensive iron and silk works and the repair shops of the Erie Railway give it a thriving appearance. The Passaic Falls on Passaic River are a feature of this place. The river here has a perpendicular fall of 50 feet and a total descent of 72 feet, affording an immense water-power, which has been improved by a dam and canals. The scenery in the vicinity of the falls is very picturesque, and a handsome park borders them. Along the western base of the Bergen Hills, the West Shore (N. Y., W. S. and B. R. R.), and several other railways make their way northward, passing through many pretty villages where New Yorkers live, and penetrating, in the rear of the Palisades, a district of extreme natural beauty and full of historical relics and asso- ciations. No person should leave out of his scheme of exploration of the neigh- borhood of New York, such places as Englewoody Hackensack, Cherry Hill, Tappan and others where happened some of the most exciting incidents of the Revolutionary war, and which are still environed in a rural beauty astonishing when one remembers how near they are to the city. STA TEN ISLAND. 323 Siaien Island. The description already given (see Harbor), of the shores of Staten Island, forestalls the need of any extended remarks here. The ferry to Staten Island, furnished with staunch and elegant double-decked boats, runs between the Battery and St. George, a new landing at the northernmost point of the island, lately established by the managers of the Baltimore and Ohio R. R. as a terminus for their lines from the west, which cross to the island from Elizabethport, N. J. by a bridge over the Arthur Kills. Extensive piers and terminal facilities for exchange and warehousing of freight have been constructed here, and the port bids fair to become of vast importance, while plans are under consideration for connecting Staten Island with Long Island by a tunnel under the Narrows. No passenger trains are yet run over this route. There is a highly serviceable railway system on the island, nevertheless, known as the State7i Island Rapid Transit, which runs from St. George, the ferry-landing, to all the shore villages of importance. This consists of three lines : 1. A line crossing the island from St. George southward at the distance of a mile or so from the shore, and passing through Concord, New Dorp, Htcgtienot, Princess Bay (whence come many oysters) and Pleasant Plains, to Tottenville, at the southern extremity of the Island, whence a ferry boat crosses hourly to Perth Amboy. Regular fares are charged on this line. 2. A line from St. George along the shore of the Narrows to Stapleton (the landing where old Commodore Vanderbilt began the ferry to New York which was the foundation of his fortune), to Clifton (where Garibaldi lived several years), and to Fort Wadszvorth and the batteries at the Narrows. Ferry tickets (10 cents) are good between New York and any station on this line without addi- tional charge. 3. A line from St. George along the beautiful north shore, through New Brighton, Sailor's Smig Harbor, Port Richmond, etc., to Erastina, at the terminus of the bridge to Elizabethport. Here as in No. 2, an uniform rate of 10 cents is charged from New York to any station, and vice versa ; this fare including both ferriage and railroad ticket. The time from New York to St. George is twenty-five minutes, and Rapid Tran- sit trains closely connect with every boat. Staten Island is hilly and contains many attractive spots, and much excellent farming land. The views of the harbor and harbor-shores gained from its northern highlands, are exceedingly fine, while the most charming and artistic river scenery is to be had along Arthur Kill and the sound separating the island from New Jersey. Quaint old ports are scattered along the southern shore, and odd little villages throughout the interior, as countrified as if they were away in the woods 324 GUIDE TO NEW YORK CITY. of Cattaraugus, lint interspersed everywhere are the modern and luxurious country residences of wealthy New Yorkers, who go back and forth daily. This interior is traversed only by wagon roads, Richmond, the judicial seat of the Island (which constitutes Richmond County) being itself away from the railroad. Sailor's Snug Harbor, — The most interesting and notable thing on the north shore of the Island is this asylum for aged and infirm seamen, which is in the western part of the town of New Brighton, opposite Constable's Hook, N. J. but has a railway station of its own half a mile beyond the New Brighton station. Its stately and complete buildings occupy a park and attached farming lands amounting together to 1S5 acres. This benefice is the result of a bequest made at the beginning of this century by Capt. Richard Randall, then a prominent mem- ber of the Marine Society of New York. This bequest consisted mainly of his farm, whose southern boundary was the line of the present Astor Place, and which yielded to the Trustees about $40,000. This has been so carefully managed that the pr(5perty of the Harbor now approaches $iS,ooo,ooo in value, and the income suffices to care for 1,000 beneficiaries. About 750 are at present on the rolls, and surrounded by unusual comfort. According to the terms of the bequest, which was made in advance of the introduction of steam navigation, none can be admitted except those who have seen a certain amount of actual sea-service as sailormen. This excludes a large class of men who have been employed on steam- ships exclusively, and there is much complaint at the strict interpretation by which the trustees exercise their privileges. The institution is open to visitors at all suitable hours, and is well worth inspection, es])ecially in summer, when the grounds and the water-views they afford are admirable. A mortuary monument covering the bones of the founder, stands near the main entrance : and in another part of the park is a bronze statue of Randall by Augustus St. Gaudens, which is one of the most satisfactory pieces of sculpture in the neighborhood of New York. The visitor should take pains to see, within the buildings, the workshops, where scores of cheerful old mariners sit in the sunshine, smoke their pipes and work at plaiting baskets, mats and other articles of straw, netting hammocks, fishnets, tidies, etc., and rigging toy models of painfully accurate schooners, brigs and full- rigged ships. These articles were sold by them, and the more able and industri- ous make a considerable income in this way. The Sailor's Snug Harbor is as sunny and cheerful a refuge as can be found in the Union. Erastina and the Woods of Ai'dcn are pleasure resorts of occasional interest. At the former Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show gave its exhibitions and may do so again. THE END. INDEX. A PAGE Academy of Design 256 Amateur Dramatics ^f, Ambulance Service ~'' Anarchists 'ik m Annexed District i°' S. Apartment Houses I'O Arion Singing Society o^ Army, The Regular v.o'bV" 5^8 Art Schools 142, 25,, 2o8 Ai-t Galleries 255, ^^ Astor Place ••••■■■ 1^^ Astoria 6«J, IW, dia Assay Office ip« AsburyPark ^^ Asylums, BUnd t5} Deaf Mute 281 Insane ^^1 Orphan -"'^ Athletics . "„ Avenues, Central ■ • • }i^ Fifth 145, 1-1 St. Nicholas ll^ Second ^° Third ^' B Baggage Express |5 Balls and Dances oo Banks lo^ Baths 45 Battery, The ••• ]^^ Barge Office 18', 192 gj^P The Bar' Rooms 8T, 88, 93, 217 Base Ball ^^i Bayside f Baxter Street 204 Beaches, in Long Island oW " New Jersey ^^ Beer Gardens •■ ,°° Bedloe's Island ^^' o2! Bellevue Hospital i *' 5 Bergen Point 200 Bible House • • • 241 Blackweirs Island ^^' ^^ Bloomingdale 15 Boarding-houses 44 Bookstores l"-* Books about New York 12 Boulevards 115, 119 Bowery, The 210 Bowhng Green l^X Branch Post Offices 69 BriKhton -^Oa Broadway 13, 162, 166, 170 Brooklyn 289 Bridge 64 " E.D 62 Ferries to ^j Librarv 291 Suburbs of . . . C .315, 316 Canarsie Carmansville 15^ Castle Garden ■•• Cathedral, the R. C 231 Cemeteries, Calvary Cypress Hills Greenwood Central Park " Menagerie " The Drive " Museum, Nat. Hist " Museum of Art " Obelisk Circus, The City Government .... " Hall 1 " Island Chamber of Commerce Chapels of Trinity Charities, Private PubUc Chelsea 314 , 55 190 232 295 295 293 106 107 114 110 120 142 85 16 I, 58 183 153 223 280 278 15 325 326 INDEX— Continued. PAGE Chlckering Hall 207 Churches, Baptist 227 Congregational 227 Dutch Reformed 219 Episcopalian 220 Jewish 228 Lutheran 228 Methodist Episcopalian . . . 226 Presbyterian 224 Roman Catholic 229, 249 in Brooklyn 291 Clearing House 162 Cleopatra's Needle 142 Clubs, Social 260 Artists' 258 Bicycle 98 N. Y. Athletic 96 Coaching 93 Fencing 98 Manhattan Athletic 97 Pastime 97 Riding 93 " Yacht 94 College of City of New York 244 Normal 244 Columbia 245 Coenties Slip 187 Concert Saloons 82 Coney Island 300 Cooper Union 57, 85, 847, 252 Corlear's Hook 14 County of New York 18 Courts 19 Cricket 98 Croton Aqueduct 29 Custom House 157 D David's Island 183 Day Nurseries 283 DealBeach 309 Delmonico's 46 Departments of the City 16 Dispensaries 277 District Messenger Service V . . . 71 E East River Bridge. (See Brooklyn Bridgeo Eden Musee 85 Elberon 309 Electrical Subways — 71 Elevated Railways 51 Elizabeth 321 Engine-house, A Visit to an 26 Equitable Building 164 Erastina 324 Exchange, Cotton 155 Produce 151 Federal Hall 11 Perries 61 Field Sports 97 i>AGi: FifthAvenue 145, 171 Fire Department 26 Fishing 95 Five Points 204, 280 Flats 175 Florence Mission 203 Flushing 315 Fort Hamilton 196 " Lafayette 197 " Lee , 320 " Wadsworth 197 Fox Hunting 98 Fraunces Tavern 56 Free Masonry 865 Furnished Rooms 43 G Garden City 431 Gas Lamps 29 Geology of Manhattan Island 9 Glen Cove 315 Glen Island 183, 305 Governor's Island 83, 269 Grace Church 323 Grand Army of the Republic 874 Grand Central Depot 34 Grant's Tomb 117 Greenwich 15 Greenpoint 63, 185 Greenwood Cemetery 293 Guttenberg 319 H Hackensack 322 Hacks and Cabs 36 Harbor, Tour of the 189, 196 Harlem 15,177 Harper & Bros 56 Hart's Island 63, 183 Health Department 25 Hell Gate 184 Highland Beach 30« Highland Lights 199 Hoboken 318 " Ferries to 63 Horse Car Routes 58 Hospitals 275 Hotels, American plan 38 " Combination plan 39 " European plan 39 " Ladies at 42 Hudson City 319 Humane Societies 284 Hungarian and Swiss Quarter 216 Hunter's Point 315 I Insurance Patrol 27 Statistics 28 Inwood 15 Islands in East River 183 Italian Quarter 208 INDEX- 'S PAGE Jersey City 316 " " Ferries to 63 Jewish Quarter 113 Jockey Club, New York 89 ■' " Coney Island 90 Joss House 208 K King's Bridge 67 L Ladies' Half-mile 171 " Luncheon Places 184 Lafayette Place 167 Lectures 84 Lenox Lyceum 82 Liberty Statue 192 Library, Apprentices' 253 Astor 251 Brooklyn 291 Columbia 245 Cooper Union 352 Free 253 Lenox 250 Mercantile 253 Liederkranz 84 Local Districts 13, 14 Long Beach 305 Long Branch 307 Long Island, Eastern end of 312 North Shore of 315 South Shore of 313 Long Island City 318 ■' Ferries to 64, 185 Ludlow Street Jail 23 M Macy's. 100 Madison Square 147' Madison Square Garden 79 Maiiliattauville 15 Manhattan Beach 302 Manhattan Island 9 Market, Catherine 189, 288 Centre 288 Essex 288 Fulton 286 Ganseverst 287 Jefferson 288 Washington 285 W.Washington 287 Masquerades 86 Menagerie. (See Centra Park.) Metropolitan Opera House 73 Metropolitan Museum of Art 120 Missions 241 Monmouth Beach 307 Morrisania 15 Mulberry Bend 205 Murray Hill 172 Museums 85, 110, 120 Musical Entertainments 82, 84 Continued. 327 N PAGE Narrows, The 197 National Guard 272 Navesink Highlands 306 Navy Yard, Brooklyn 295 Negroes, Institutions for 283 Newark 320 New Brunswick 32 New Jersey, Cities and Suburbs in. . . 316 NewRochelle 316 Newspaper Offices 165 Night, A Ramble at 200 Northport 315 Nurses, Trained 277 O Obelisk, The 142 Ocean Beach 312 Ocean Grove 310 Old Slip 187 Opera Houses 73 Opium Smoking 209 Oranges, The (N. J.) 322 Oriental Hotel Beach 303 (Oyster Culture 199 Saloons 49 P Panoramas 85 Park Row 165 Park, Bronx 118 Bryant 53 Central 106 Gramercy 168 Jeannette 55 Morningside 115 ■' Prospect 292 Riverside 116 ■• Van Cortlandt 55, 118 Paterson 322 Plymouth Church ...'. 291 Police Courts 21 Force . . . 23 Headquarters 24 Population 12 Port Morris 15 Post Office 67, 69 Prisons 21 Produce Exchange 151 Prospect Park 292 Q Quarantine 197 R Rahway 321 Railwaj' Stations 32 Routes 33 Randall's Island 64,181,279 Races at Gravesend 89 at Monmouth Park 91 in New Jersey 92 at SheepheadBay 90 at Westchester 89 Raritan Bay 199 328 INDEX— Continued. PAGE Ravenswoo"d 315 Redbank 307 Religious Facts 218 Restaurants 45 Chinese 209 French 203 Rialto 81 Rifle Shooting 98 River, East 1T9, 182 Harlem 67 Hudson 180 North 181 Riverside Drive 116 Rockaway 304 Rogues' Gallery 25 Roslyn 315 Route of Ninth Ave. Elevated R'y • • • • ='3 Second Ave. Elevated R'y-- 58 Sixth Ave. Elevated R'y. • ■ ■ 52 Third Ave. Elevated R> .... 55 Rovcing 94 Rumson Neck 307 Russian Quarter 212 Sailors' Snug Harbor 167, 200, 324 St. George's Church 223 St. Mark's Church : 224 St. Paul's Church 222 Schuetzen Park 319 Schools, Public 243 Medical 248 Seabright 807' Sea Cliff 315 Sea Girt 312 Sea Resorts 298 Seventh Regiment 273 Ship News 199 Shipping 100 Slumming 202 Socialists 215 Societies, Art 256 Historical 266 Learned 267 Musical 84 Secret 265 S. P. C. A 284 Square, Abingdon 106 Franklin 56 Jackson 106 Madison 147 Printing-house 166 Stuyvesant 168 Tompkins 106 Washington 149 Stages 60 Statues 169 Staten Island 197, 200, 323 Ferries to 64 Steamboats 32 Steamships 182 Landings 30 Stock Exchange 160 " " Consolidated 161 PAax Statistics . . JO Street, Baxter 204 Bleeker 202 Chambers 53 Cortlandt... 52 Fulton 164 Forty-second 173 Hester 214 " South 187 " Wall , 155 Streets, Arrangement of 13 Stuyvesant Place 168 Suburbs, How to Reach 60 Sub-Treasury 159 Sunday in New York 218 T Table d'Hote Dinners 48 Telegraphs 70 Telephones 71 Tennis 98 Theatres 73 Tombs, The 22 Trade Districts 102 " Statistics 12 Trap-shooting 99 Trinity Church 163, 221 Trip Down the Bay 189, 196 Turf and Turfmen 189 Turn Verein 97 U University, Columbia 245 New York 247 Union Hill 319 " Seminary 248 V Vanderbilt Houses 174 VaudevUle Theatres 8 W Waiters, Feeing 50 Wall Street 155 Ward's Island 64, 379 Washington Bridge 67 " Place 150 Water Supply 28 Weather Service 271 Weehawken 64, 319 West Brighton 301 Westchester County 316 West Hoboken 319 Wharf Scenes 181, 188 Williamsburgh 62 WiUets Point 183, 315 Wolfe, Catherine 135 Women, Institutions for Aiding 281 Woodlawn Cemetery 295 Y Yachting and Boating 94 Yorkville 15 Yonl?ers 316 Young, Institutions for 282 Y. M. C. A 242 LATEST ADDITIONS TO GLOBE LIBRARY. ( See other List.) 76 LIVING OR DEAD. By Hugh Conway. 77 VALERIE; or. Half a Truth. By " The Duchess." 78 A MERE CHILD. By L. B. Walford. . „ ^ 79 FAIRY GOLD. By the author of "All in the Wild March Morning," etc. 80 MADAM'S WARD. By Carl Andrews. 81 THE STORY OF AN AFRICAN FARM. By Olive Schreiner. 82 THE UNPOPULAR PUBLIC. By Litere. 83 THE DREAM. By Knille Zola. 84 THE ROGUE. By W. E. Norrls. 85 MISS BRETHERTON. By Mi-s. Humphrey Ward. 86 A DANGEROUS CATSPAW. By D. C. and H. Murray. 87 RALEIGH RIVERS. By O. OB. Strayer. 88 JACK DUDLEY S -WIFE. By E. M. ftavy. 89 THE MADDOXES. Bv .Jean Middleniass. 90 ADAM BEDE. Bv Gc.iRe Eliot. 91 THE QUEENS TOKEN. By 31r.><. Cashel Hoey. 92 THE LADIES' GALLERY. F.v .lustjn JUCarthy, and Mrs. C. Praed. 93 THE ENGLISHMAN OF THE RUE CAIN. By H. F. Wood. 94 IS MARRIAGE A FAILURE ? Edited by H. Quilter. 95 ALMEDA. By Dr. N. T. Oliver. 96 MADEMOISELLE SOLANGE. By E. de Julliot. 97 THE REPROACH OF ANNESLEY. By Maxwell t.rey. 1 98 THREE YEARS. Bv .losei)hine. Countess Sehwerin. ' 99 VERE; THE LEADING LADY. By One of the Profession. 100 THE GIRL FROM MALTA. By F. W. Hume. 101 CLEOPATRA. By H. Kider Haggard. 102 ARTIST AND MODEL. By Bene de Font-Jest. 103 THE TENTS OF SHEM. By Grant Allen. 104 A CROOKED PATH. By Mrs. Alexander. 105 MAROONED. By W. t'hn-k Kussell. 106 COULD AUGHT ATONE ? Anonymous. 107 THE GOLGOTHA OF THE HEART. By H. Wachenhusen. 108 DR. WILBURS NOTE-BOOK. By Dr. N. T. Oliver. 109 ROLAND OLIVER. I'.y .lustin McCarthy, M. P. no RHEA; or, The Case of Dr. Piemen. By Rene de Pont-Jest. 111 MRS. ANNIE GREEN. By Opie P. Read. 112 FOR LOVE OF HER. By tlie author of "Vere. 113 ALLANS WIFE. By H. Kider Haggard. . 114 LOVER OR BLACKMAILER? By F. Du Boisgobey. 115 LADY CLANCARTY; or. W^edded and Wooed. By A. D. Hall. 116 THE SALVATION ARMY. By "Nora M.arks.'' 117 TROLLOPE'S DILEMMA. By St. Aubyn. 118 BLIND LOVE. Bv Will. CLYOE