I,. ' ■; .
';.:V'"''r
Book Tl] ^^
Coipght N°_
COPyRIGIlT DEPOSIT.
Sixty Years in California
A HISTORY OF EVENTS AND LIFE
IN CALIFORNIA; ^-rfi-
Personal, Political and Military,
UNDER THE MEXICAN REGIME ; DURING THE QUASI-MILI-
TARY GOVERNMENT OF THE TERRITORY
BY THE UNITED STATES,
AFTER THE ADMISSION OF THE STATE INTO THE UNION,
BEING A COMPILATION BY A WITNESS OF THE EVENTS DESCRIBED.
BY
WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS.
SAN FRANCISCO :
A. J. LEARY, PUBLISHER,
402-408 Sansome Street.
1889.
Copyright, 1889,
By WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS.
(All rights reserved.)
From the Tress and Bindery ov
A. J. Leary, San Francisco, Cal.
^ ,
TO
GEORGE HYDE,
IN THE YEARS 1847 AND 1848
FIRST-^LCA^LDE
OF THE DISTRICT OF SAN FRANCISCO.
THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY
The a uthor.
PREFACE.
The author came to California in 1831, seventeen
years before the discovery of gold in Sutter's mill-race,
and married into a native California family of Spanish
extraction. He has continued to reside in the depart-
ment and State ever since, except when absent from it
on business.
He has had an extended experience in the manners
and customs of the people, their methods of trade, of
the social and political history of the department and
of its successor, the State, as that history was evolved
through all the stirring events of that period, to the
American occupation, down to the present date. There
is an under-current in social life abounding in genial
interchange of amenities, which is preserved only in
tradition, to be recited in family circles, and from this
source the author has obtaineci much valuable informa-
tion. All this has enabled him in these personal recol-
lections, to rescue from oblivion events that are herein
recorded, narrations of which cannot be found else-
where. Many of them are instructive, interesting and
amusing. Instructive, in portraying the vast resources
of the Department ; its well stocked haciendas and its
extended commerce. Interesting, in its incidents of
personal matters ; and amusing in the natural humor
characteristic of many of the inhabitants.
PREFACE.
They also present an insight to the energy, enter-
prise, trials, misfortunes and triumphs of those men
who laid the foundation of that prosperity which now
places California in the front rank, among the most
favored States of the Union. Many of the partici-
pants in those occurrences, have passed away from life's
duties and exertions. The survivors will be able, from
the perusal of these pages, to attest to the verity of the
author's representations.
It has been his sole intent to set forth the facts in
a clear and distinct manner, consistent with the adage:
" Truth is mighty and will prevail."
San Francisco, Cal., May, 1889.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I.
Page.
Author's first arrival in California — Engages in local trade and commerce
with Sitka and the Hawaiian Islands — Appearance of Sitka — Government
Officers — Social Amenities — At Monterey — Prominent Foreign Residents —
Author's Second Visit to the Coast — An English Brig Discovered — A Race
between the Brig and "Volunteer" — The latter Victorious — In Port a "Good
Time " ensues between the officers of the Respective Vessels — List of Trading
Vessels — Forts, Military Officers and other Residents of the Bay Shores —
Sea Otter plenty in San Francisco Bay— Trade Ventures in Different
Directions i
CHAPTER II.
The San Francisco Mission — The Padres as Instructors — Their Possessions
in Live Stock and Natural Productions — Hostile Indians Captured, Civil-
ized and Christianized — Goods sold to the Padres, for Hides, Tallow,
Peltries and Money — Other Missions — San Francisco in 1 833^X1 arriage of
Thomas O. Larkin on board the "Volunteer," at Santa Barbara — Fes-
tivities that followed — The "Volunteer" trades to Honolulu — The Author
Sails on Board to that City 8
CHAPTER III.
The Author Returns May. 1838, on the "Don Quixote" — A Protracted
Battle without Human Bloodshed — At Monterey on the " Don Quixote " —
Further Enumeration of Trading Vessels — The Voyage to Sacramento — The
Author's Schooner the Flag Ship — Captain Sutter on Board — He unfolds to
the Author his Future Plans — The Nativity of Captain .Sutter— A Plague of
Mosquitos — Captain Sutter Landed — A Salute which Astonishes the Indians
and Wild Beasts — The Salute Answered with Cheers — Return Voyage —
Provisions Scarce — Unexpected Food Supply Received 13
CHAPTER IV.
More names of Residents around the Bay of San Francisco 21
CHAPTER V.
Station of the Russian P\ir Company, anil its Officers — The Force engaged
Hunting Sea Otters — Value of the Otter .Skins and where they were .Sold —
Captain .Sutter Purchases the Russian Buildings and Outfits— A Fourth of July
Celebration in 1839 — Parties in Attendance — Vessel Arrivals in 1839 24
Viii CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VI.
Page.
Thousands of Elk on Mare Island — Elk captured with the Lariat by the
Rancheros — Dangers of the .Sport — Ranchos with Large Herds of Live .Stock —
Ranches around the Bay in 1838 — Wealth of Bay Residents in Land and
Live Stock — Indians as Farmers and \'^aqueros — Indian .Steam Baths 28
CHAPTER VII.
How the Missions were supported — Cattle Slaughtered mainly for their
Hides and Tallow — The Portions Preserved for Food — Milch Cows in no
Demand — The use of Florses — The Gangs into which they were Divided, and
their Habits while running at large — Wild Horses in San Joaquin Valley —
Sport had by the Young Men in their Capture with the Lasso 36
CHAPTER VIII.
The Cattle tamed by frequent Rodeos — Manner of Collecting the Cattle
together — Neighboring Rancheros attend the Rodeos to look after their own
Brands— The Pursuit of Break-away cattle — The Novel Method of Reducing
them to Obedience — A Rodeo Described — Beef the Chief Food of Californians,
which accounts for their Health and Longevity 41
CHAPTER IX.
Horse Breeding — Instinct of Attachment between the Equine Se.ves — Their
Uneasiness at .Separation — Grain and Bean Threshing by Mares — A Primitive
Method 50
CHAPTER X.
How Taxes were Imposed for the Support of the Department — Governor
Alvarado's Order for the Arrest of Americans — The Arrests that were made —
Verba Buena placed under Martial Law by General Vallejo — Disposition of
the Arrested Parties- — News of the Arrests sent by Consul Larkin to Wash-
ington — Action of the United States Government — The Principal Rancheros
Anticipate the Annexation of California to the United States — The Ques-
tion only one of Time — Their Reasons for not Earnestly Opposing the Measure. 54
CHAPTER XL
Arrest and Release of Nathan Spear — The Author is one of the Arrested —
While a Prisoner attends an Entertainment — An Attractive Hostess — Further
action of the Government of the United States concerning the Arrests — A
General Delivery of Prisoners — An E.vplanation and Disclaimer — The Latter
probably Insincere 60
CHAPTER XII.
Population of the Department in l838-'39, and its Composition — A
Prominent Frenchman Arrives — His Nervous Impatience causes him to take
an Impromptu Cold Bath — His Mission Suspected of being one of Observation
CONTENTS. IX
Page.
for the French Govertimenl-He makes a Round of Visits-Captain Sutler
is Pleased with him-Mutual Respect-His Opinion of the Country and its
Destiny
63
CHAPTER XIII.
The Priests and the Missions-The Work of Converting Indians-Missions
under rule of the Mexican Republic-Culture and Attainments of the Priests-
Father Gonzales-Horses Supplied Gratuitously to the Traders by the
Rancheros and Padres-The Supercargo sometimes owned his own Horses
—Manner of Trading with Incoming Vessels-Comforts of the Adobe
Dwelling-Family Traveling Equipages-Houses and IIouse-keeping-A
Word of Praise for Native California Ladies-Educational Facilities Scarce
—Sites Selected for Dwellings ^i
CHAPTER XIV.
Indian Treachery-Fighting the Indians-An Indian Arrow Wound ulti-
mately causes the Death of Comandante Juan Padro Mesa-The Californians
Early Risers-Daily Customs of the Rancheros-Dress of the Leisure Season
-Customs of the Native Californian when Mounted-Trappings of his
Horse-C;allantry in the Saddle-Habits of the Household-Gray-headed
Persons Scarce-A Contented People-Class Distinctions-Courtesy a
Common Thing-Home Entertainments-The Dancing Endurance of the
Native California Women-The Author takes a Whirl in the Waltz-Sur-
prising Feats of Horsemanship-Upsetting a Bull-Concerning the Double
Marriage of Don Jose Martinez-He proves a True Philanthrophist-Dies, ^^
and has an Immense Funeral
CHAPTER XV.
Horse Racing as an A.nusement-Bull Fighting-Lassoeing Bears by the
Wholesale-A Night of Horror to the Author-Don Vicente exhibits his skill in
Throwing Cattle-Gambling not a Vice with the Native Californians-Their
Promptitude in Business Transactions-Pride Supported their Honesty 9S
CHAPTER XVI.
Rank of the Mexican Civil Officers and their Powers-Military Officers-
Their Duties-The Junta Departmental-Land Grants, Why and How
Bestowed-Officers appointed for San Francisco-How Justice was Adm.n-
istered-The Governor's Powers-The Alcaldes were Capable Officers-Their
Insignia of Office-Governor Alvarado-IIe is held in Esteem by the I-oreign
Residents-General Castro as a Military Man-General Vallejo-His Courtesy
to Visitors and Strangers-A Sleep on a Cold Night without Blankets-
General Vallejo skilled as a Horseman, and expert with the Lasso-Allu-
sion to Don Pablo de la Guerra, Don Jose Antonio Carillo, Mr. Alfred
Robinson and Don Manuel Jimeno-Dona Augusta Jimeno, a High-spirited
and Patriotic Lady-Dona Ramona Wilson, a Lady of great Hospitality. . . . 103
oc CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XVII.
Page-
A Post erected at Yerba Buena in 1841 by the Hudson's Bay Company — Rae
occupies a Portion of the Building — Rae a Genial Man — A Particular Game
of Cards — Favorite Games of the People — The Hudson's Bay Store as a
Place of Resort — A Wrestling Contest — Rae Vanquished — Rae held in much
Respect — Bob Ridley and his Doings — Brandy gets him in the End — Rae
proves an Unfaithful Husband — Ends his Life by .Suicide — A new Agent at
the Post, who closes out the Business to Melius & Howard 115
CHAPTER XVIII.
Commodore Wilkes and Fleet visit the Pacific Coast Waters in 1841 — A
Survey of the Sacramento River is made — Captain .Sutter Visited — He Enter-
tains the Surveyors Bounteously — Commodore Wilkes as Gentleman and Officer
■ — General Vallejo visits Wilkes — He receives a Salute — The Commodore has
other Distinguished Visitors — The Commodore gives Interesting Descriptions
of his Pacific Explorations — Interchange of Visits between the Officers of the
Fleet and of Fort Ross — The Fleet Secures its Supplies from Spear, which
enables the Author to become Intimate with its Officers — A Jolly .Set — Com-
modore Wilkes is too Busy to Participate in the Current Festivities — Spear
and the Commodore become Intimate — .Spear was the First Merchant in Yerba
Buena — He is Profuse in his Praises of the Country's Resources and Climatic
Advantages to his Eastern Correspondent — He Declines to become a Mexican
Citizen — Visit of British War .Ships to the Bay — A Design Suspected of
Prompting the Visit — Movements that are watched by Commodore Wilkes. . . 122
CHAPTER XIX.
Captain Eliab Grimes — The Mexican Government has no Revenue Cutters
to prevent Otter Hunting — Captain Bancroft presumes too much upon the for-
bearance of his Alaskan Hunters — Reprimands them Severely and Loses his
Life — The Hunters are Pacified — The Mate takes the Vessel to Alaska —
Discharges the Hunters and proceeds to Honolulu — A British ship Arrives
in San Francisco Bay on a .Surveying Expedition — The result of the
Captain's Labors is kept Secret — The Object Apparent^ — Captain Wm. A.
Leidesdorff" comes to California in 1841, in the Schooner "Juliann" —
The Author becomes Supercargo of the "Don Quixote," Captain John
Paty — Sails to Honolulu with a Vessel Load of Hides — That City a Central
Mart for the Pacific Ocean Trade 135
CHAPTER XX.
The " Don Quixote " returns to San Francisco, and becomes a Coast Trader
— A Misunderstanding with the Customs Officers — Smuggling Operations Dis-
covered but not Reported — Escape from the Surveillance of the Sub-Prefect
— A Profitable Night's Work— Explanation why the Merchants at one time
Violated the Mexican Revenue Laws — Clever Tricks to avoid the Customs
Taxes — The First Steam Saw Mill — It is Located in the Bodego Lumber
Region — A New Firm Established at San Diego — The Author leaves the
" Don Quixote," and becomes an Agent of the Firm at Yerba Buena —
Business Lively 141
CONTENTS. xi
CHAPTER XXI.
Pagb.
The American Occupation of Monterey, in 1842, by Commodore Jones— A
Graphic Description of the Capture— A Mistake- -Relinquishment of the
City— The Commodore's Action Sustained by the Government— A Mexican
Vessel brought to by a Shot across her Bow— Flying False Colors— A Sur-
render—Lady Prisoners of War— The Author's Wife was One of Two— She
Describes the Situation — Surrender of Monterey — A Wail in the Town —
Commodore Jones gives to the People Assurances of Protection to Life and
Property — A Pleasant Interview with the Commodore — He Relates the Story
of 'his Proceedings at Monterey— The Great Responsibility he Felt led to his
Mistake— Glad there was no Occasion for Hostilities— Favorably Impressed
with California— Proud of being the First to Raise the American Flag over
the Soil— Felt Assured the Country would Some Day pass into American
Possession 'S'
CHAPTER XXII.
Stay at Monterey— A Musical Treat— A Present of Wine to the Naval
Officers— A Consular Entertainment at Monterey— The Enjoyment General
—Commodore Jones the Right Man in the Right Place— His Popularity —
Leniency Improperly Bestowed— Base Ingratitude— Fast trip of the Frigate
"United States" to Honolulu and Back— A Family Party visits the Ship
"Cyane" — An Agreeable Surprise— Hearty Congratulations— An Enjoyable
Feast— Commodore Jones as a Hunter of Small Game— The " Cyane" Leaves
for Monterey 102
CHAPTER XXIIL
Commodore Jones and Officers make a Visit to Governor Micheltorena at
Los Angeles— A Talk about the Capture of Monterey— An Amicable Under-
standing arrived at — A Grand Banquet Succeeds — The Officers, by Invita-
tion, call on Don Louis Vigne — They Inspect his Cellars, Vineyards, and
Sample his Wine— They are Presented with Several Barrels of the Same —
Nativity of Don Louis — A Pioneer, and the Most Noted Viticulturist — The
First to Raise Oranges in Los Angeles — Devoted to His Business — Extent
of his Vineyards Nine Years after— His Predictions of California becoming
a Wine-producing Country — Don Louis as an Old Man— A Pride to the State,
Generous to the Poor, and Liked by Every One — Impossible to Bestow too
much Praise on his Memory 168
CHAPTER XXIV.
A Few Names of the Earliest Comers to California— A Homely Husband
and Handsome Wife— A Lady with Long and Beautiful Hair- Race Improve-
ment by Intermarriage — Captain Thomas M. Robbins and His Cook —
J.J. Warner — He becomes a Prominent Man in the State 173
xii CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXV.
Page.
A Revolution — General Castro Joins Alvarado — Troops at their Old Tricks
— A Skirmish and a Retreat — Los Angeles taken by Alvarado — A Division of
Sentiment — The Leaders of the Separate Columns — The People Opposed
to Strife — Alvarado its Moving Cause — Why and Where he found his Allies
— Alvarado resorts to Impressment — General Vallejo Non-committal — •
Micheltorena is joined by General Sutter with Fifty or Sixty Riflemen —
The Author Custodian of Alexander Bell's Treasure and Goods — Cannon-
ading Heard — A Battle Ensues — Apprehension of the People for the Safety
of Relatives — Anguish of the Women — A Long but Bloodless Battle —
Micheltorena Capitulates and Agrees to Leave the Country 178-
CHAPTER XXVL
After the Battle — Intermingling of the Hostile Parties — The Author has
another Interview with Captain Sutter — A Talk over Old Times — James
McKinlay becomes a Mediator between the Hostile Leaders — Condition of
the Settlement — General Vallejo Supplanted as Commander-in-Chief by
General Castro — Generous Forbearance of General Micheltorena — Reason why
the Conflict was Bloodless — Don Pio Pico becomes Provisional Governor of
the Department — The "Don Quixote" Chartered as a Transport — Michel-
torena and Troops Depart upon Her — The Author on Board as Supercargo
— Micheltorena Talks about the Battle — His Appearance as a Soldier — His
Accomplishments — Reflections on what has been Related — Alvarado as an
Intriguer — The Voyage to San Bias — Micheltorena Wishes to Amend Paty's
Fortunes — The Governor's First Arrival in the Department —Diversions
Coming North from San Diego 185.
CHAPTER XXVII.
Native Cahfornians and Indians seldom Intermarried — The Padres at the
Missions had a Care over Unfortunate Children — Settling Book Accounts at
Santa Anita — A Singular Vow — Fine Looking Native Californians — An
Eccentric Octogenarian — He is the Head of a Numerous Family — Continued
Enumeration of Noted Caliiornians— A Skilled Markswoman — Limantour
appears on the Scene — His Vessel goes Ashore near Point Reyes — His Silks
flntl Ready Sale— A Cargo of Cattle Shipped to Marquesas and Society Islands,
for Breeding Purposes — A Drunken Brawl —The old Mission of San Luis
Rey and its Priests — Penance Performed in Food-mixing — A Sententious
and Devout Octogenarian 195.
CHAPTER X.W III.
William Sturgis Hinckley Arrives in 1838 — He and Governor Alvarado
become Good Friends — A Good Joke — Hinckley goes to Callao — He Returns
as the owner of the Brig " Corsair" — 1 le becomes a Permanent Resident, and
Marries — Is Elected Alcalde of San Francisco District — Makes a Capable
and Popular Officer — He Constructs a Much-needed Bridge — A Survey of
CONTENTS. xm
Page.
Verba Buena is Ordered and Streets laid out— Dies in June, 1846— Fran-
cisco Guerrero "becomes an Alcalde— Is afterwards Appointed Sub-Prefect—
His Good Nature to Spear and the Author while under Arrest— Ilis Efficiency
and Impartiality as an Officer— He Secures a Land Grant at Half Moon Bay
—Is one of the Real Founders of San Francisco— His Murder and the
Reason for it ^°5
CHAPTER XXIX.
A Record of Vessel Arrivals at Verba Buena and Monterey— Method 'of
Collecting Cargoes— How Hides were Cured and Loaded Aboard— \Yhalers
come into Port for Water and other Supplies— The sort of Vegetables to be
Planted for the Whalers— Reception given to Deserters from on Shipboard-
Farmers Anticipate the Arrival of the Whaleships— Local Trade with them
—Ingenious Manner of Concealing Goods from Custom House Inspection-
Politics Excitedly Discussed— Captain Eliab Grimes Relates an Experience
—An Expression of Yankee Pluck— The Captain Secures a Land Grant—
His Death ^'^
CHAPTER XXX.
The First Discovery of Gold— Where and by Whom Discovered— It serves as
Currency— Large Amounts of the Metal in Circulation— Promoting the Immi-
gration of Women to Equalize the Sexes— Inducement for Young Men to
Marry Early— The Draft of Voung Men for the Army Relentless— An
Anecdote of the Draft— A Flight to Avoid it-The Draft Deemed Needless
—Salmon Catching— The Occupation made Profitable— Nathan Spear the
Originator of Salmon Fishing for Commerce— Parrott's 111 Luck— His
Vessel Wrecked— No Lives Lost— Part of the Cargo Saved— The Benefit
of Packing Goods Securely— Looting Goods— Captain J. B. R. Cooper's
Share in the Spoils ^^^
CHAPTER XXXI.
Gold known to Exist in the Sacramento Valley long before the Discovery
at Sutter's Mill— Indians brought it into the Missions— They told the Padres
Where it was Found— A Couple of Priests— They Differ in Character— Are
Both Friendly to the Author— Father Mercado Understood Good Living—
Both Priests speak Concerning the Existence of Gold— They could not be
Convinced that it would be Proper to Publish the Secret to the World— An
Old and Faithful Aboriginee gives Information of an Intended Indian
Outbreak— The Report Doubted— It is Confirmed by a Sudden and Unex-
pected Attack— Three Men Killed— Indians Break into the House— The
Mistress saved by the Interposition of the Old Indian Woman— She is Dis-
robed and Turned Loose— The Daughters taken into Captivity—The
Mother's Brutal Treatment— Her Little Son Spreads News of the Savage
Performances— Further Fiendish Acts Threatened— The General Conster-
nation
231
xiv CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXII.
Page.
How the Freaks of an Inebriated Man Frightened the Indians Off — The
Indians Pursued — An Indian Spy is Captured — Tells of the Fright Occasioned
to the Indians, and is Shot — An Attempt to Recapture the Daughters Fails —
The Brothers Wounded and compelled to Retreat^The Girls Never Re-
covered — Further Indian Exploits — The Savages are Chastised — Residents
at San Diego in 1838 — Miss Alvarado — Her Knowledge of the Indian
Language Enables Her to Detect a Fiendish Plot — The Indian Plan for a
Massacre— A Company Organized for Defense — The Conspirators Lassoed
and Secured — They Confess their Guilt and are Shot — A Cannon Bor-
rowed by the Californians for Defense — Another Confession by a Spy, after
Mutilation — His Subsequent Fate — The Indians are Surprised — A Battle
in which they are Defeated — An Indian Night Attack upon the Residence
of Don Santiaguito Arguello — It is Unsuccessful — Indian Depredations —
James Berry gets a Land Grant, and Stocks it — A Bay and Shore Celebra-
tion of the Fourth of July 238
CHAPTER XXXIII.
A Cargo of Panocha brought by Captain Dare in the Ship " Dread naught "
— John Perry Tells Interesting Stories of Central America — Precautions against
Smuggling^Spear Influences Perry for a Motive — Privileges Granted to
Merchants by Governor .-Mvarado — Perry Dies at Realejo — Pisco and other
Goods Arrive from Peru — Hinckley Talks too Much and is Arrested—
Nothing is Proved against Him, and He is Discharged — The First Grist
Mill at Verba Buena — The Manner of Operating it — The Second Mill at
San Jose — Native Mode of Grinding Flour — Something about the Verba
Buena Miller — Captain Miguelon — His Characteristics and Cargo — An
Offer Declined— Dangerous Passage of a Swollen Stream— A Thrilling In-
cident of the Crossing — Stetson in Peril — He has a Narrow Escape — More
High Water— Detention of a Bridal Party in Consequence — The First
Steamer on the Bay— Something about "Jim Crow Smith," an Eccentric
Character— His Dexterity as a Pistol Shot— He makes a Savage Misuse of
the Weapon — Dies by Suicide 246
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Remembrances of Doiia Encarnacion Altamirano — The Discovery of Blossom
Rock — An East Indian Trader Strikes on the Rock — Gets off without
Material Injury — Respect of Native California Children for their Parents —
The Cigarito Smoking Habit — Cases in Point — Wine Drinking Permitted —
Filial Affection — Further Concerning Native California Habits — Relating to
Courtship and Marriage — The Division of Horses into caponcias, on Account
of Color — Incidents connected with a Bridal Party— The Dull Season —
Camping on Goat Island — How the Islana Derived the Name — The Author's
Losing Speculation — Old Jack Fuller as Cook and Story Teller 260
CONTENTS. XV
CIIArTER XXXV.
Page.
Camping at the Ocean beach— Strawberry Patches— Don Francisco Guerrero
gives a Grand " Blow-out" — Howard Amuses an Audience — His Talent as an
Amateur Actor — Strawberry Campings Popular — Paty becomes Prominent
in Business Transactions— He establishes a Line of Packets between San
Francisco and Honolulu -His Hundredth Voyage between San Francisco
and Honolulu Celebrated— Theodore Cordua Arrives— Becomes a Mexican
Citizen and obtains a Grant of Land — He is a Genial Companion — Wm. C.
Flugge's Movements— Change in Character of the Native Californians —
Reasons Therefor — Litigation Involved by Change of Government— The
Natives Fleeced by Sharpers — Demoralizing Effect of their Outrageous
Treatment — An Interview with Widow Paty — A Coincidence of Names —
More of Captain and Mrs. Paty— The Husband had been Christened
" Commodore" by the Hawaiian King — Discriminating l)etween Debtors —
A Generous-hearted Creditor- -The Hunters and Trappers Reliable ]SIen —
Wilkes and Paty — The Incident of a Dancing Party 270
CHAPTER XXXVI.
A Self-assertive Woman, but Good and Honest— The Carnival Season —
The Amusement of Breaking Egg-shells over the Head— Entertainments of the
Carnival Season— Observance of the Holy Days— An Evening on Board the
"Alert," with Captain Wm. D. Phelps— The Latter gives an Account of his
Journey to Jerusalem — His High Appreciation of the Visit— Captain Phelps
as a Hunter— He often Writes East in Praise of California— He also becomes
a Favorite with Commodore Wilkes— Boston the First to Learn of the
Country's Vast Resources 286
CHAPTER XXXVII.
Observing Christmas Eve by Turkey Shooting— The Rash and Dangerous
Folly of Captain Phelps — The Author's Father Arrives on the Coast — Some
time after. His Mother also— The Former trades between Honolulu and China
—He opens a Lively Trade on this Coast at Refugio— The Padres chief among
the Traders — Otter Hunting — The Russians Manifest a Disposition to en-
croach upon the Rights of the Padres— The Vessel Visited by a Military
Official in full dress— The Goods of the Vessel bring in a Golden Harvest —
How Captain Meek's Herds Increased from the Gift of Four Cattle — His
Manner of Improving the Herds — Great Age Changes a Horse's Color —
Captain Meek makes a Quick Trip with the " Don Quixote " from Callao,
Peru, to Honolulu— The Ship Noted as a Fast Sailer 294
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
The Mi.-,sions Well-Stored — The Padres good at Bartering— Reciprocity of
Interests between tlie Missions — A Community of Property — A Word of
Praise lor the Padres — Best Otter Hunters from the Southern States — Names
of Some of the Early Hunters and Trappers — A Trade in Otter Skins — The
Method of their Preservation — Constant Hunting Diminished the Otter Skin
Supply— The Christian Name used as a Designation — A Sketch of a Surgeon
xvi CONTENTS.
Pag .
— He Visits and Explores the Hawaiian Islands — His Sudden Disappearance
— His Body Found in a Cattle-pit — Purity of Character in Native California
Women— Punishment for a Stain on it — Indian Mode of Bear-hunting — A
Well-preserved California Lady — Her Plan and Offer of Aid to President-
elect Juarez is Gratefully Appreciated — The Lady's Husband proves Valorous
in Battle 304
CHAPTER XXXIX.
Concerning Wm. D. M. Howard, an Early Comer to the State, who After-
wards made his Mark — Displays his Superior Business Qualifications — Becomes
a Trader Up and Down the Coast — Is a Humorist — Fond of His Joke — En-
gages in Business with Melius — The American Flag Hoisted on Portsmouth
Square — It is Run Up at Other Places, but Compelled to be Taken Down —
The Author and Howard Overhauled —Taken to the Guard House — Hospit-
ably Entertained as Prisoners —Howard as a Mimic— Full of Innocent Mis-
chief — The Merry Gift of Commodore Biddle — -Howard as a Generous Host —
Remarkable Results of Drinking water from the Polin Spring — Mrs. Howard
Dies at Honolulu — Howard Marries a Second Time — A Child by this
Marriage still Survives — The Firm of Melius, Howard & Co. — It does an
Immense Business — Sam. Brannan Manages a Branch of the Establishment at
Sutter's Fort 314
CHAPTER XL.
Foresight of Quartermaster Folsom — He Slips Off to the West India Islands
and Purchases from the Heirs the Entire Leidesdorff Estate in California — The
Author Becomes a I^ocal Officer of San Francisco — Howard Forms a Military
Company — An Incident of Recognition — Disputing a Man's Identity — How-
ard Crippled Financially by the Great Fire of 1851 — The Increase in Real
Estate Values Restores Ilim to Wealth — A Spiteful Lawsuit Instituted by
Melius Against Howard — It is Soon Abandoned for Good Cause — Howard a
Generous Contributor to Charity — He and Melius Present the City a Fire
Engine— A Fire Company Organized with Howard as Foreman — Howard
Dies in 1855 — Tokens of Respect to His Memory 322
CHAPTER XLI.
Some Political History— The First Wharf — Privileges Granted to it — A vast
Fleet of Trading Vessels in the Bay — A Splendid Spectacle — The Business
Bustle on Shore — The Scene as a Panorama — A Patriarchal mode of Governing
the Mission Indians — Their Cleanliness under Discipline — Yoscolo, an
Educated Indian, proves Treacherous — Outbreak of the Savages — Yoscolo
their Leader — They Break into the Mission Convent, and carry off 200
Indian Girls — Yoscolo joins Stanislaus, another Educated Chief, in the
Mariposa Mountains — Their United Forces Formidable — The Indians break
into, and Plunder tlie Mission of Santa Clara — The Savages retire to the
Santa Cruz Mountains — Prado Mesa musters a Hundred Men to March
against Them — A Battle PInsues — Mesa gains a Victory — Yoscolo is Taken
and Beheaded on the Spot— The Killed and Wounded — Yoscolo's Head
displayed as a Trophy 330
CONTENTS. xvu
CHAPTER XLII.
Page.
Chief Stanislaus is Pursued and Overtaken by Castro — An Outbreak of the
Indians at Clear Lake — They are Slaughtered without Mercy — Arrow Poison-
ing — The Methods of Counteracting its Effect — The Trouble of Land Squat-
ters — A Timely and Skillful use of the Reata, and a Fortunate Rescue —
Dangers and Benefits of the Reata — Two Illustrative Incidents — A Wealthy
Land, Horse and Cattle Owner — Members of his Family Designated — A Close
Dealer — Pompous on First Acquaintance, but Easily Softened — Exhibits his
Moneyed Treasures to the Author — The Owner tells how he Acquired Them
— Does a Bartering Business on his own Account — The Wealthy Man makes
Further Purchases from the Author — Robbed by his Sons — His Character as
a Money Broker — The sort of Security he Required on Loans-rTime and
Manner of Herding and Transferring Cattle 34^
CHAPTER XLIH.
Several Arrivals from Boston by Sea — A Party on Shipboard — Sad Fate of
Captain Vincent — Thomas B. Park comes out to San Francisco — Dies Soon
After — Active Competition in the Vessel Trade of the Port — First Arrival of
Melius — Robinson's Dislikes — Melius goes East and Returns — His Precision
and Caution as a Business !Man — Melius gets Married — Sells out his Business
■ — Goes East again — Returns and Locates at Los Angeles — A Constructive
Insult Offered his Wife at a Dancing Party, by an Officer of the Army named
Bonnycastle — Melius Challenges Bonnycastle — A Friend offers Himself as a
Substitute to Fight for Melius — The Duel Comes Off— Bonnycastle Shot in
the Hand — Melius Fails in Health — Changes in the Melius Business Firm. . . 352
CHAPTER XLIV.
Sharp Practice in Trade — The Rancheros' Favoritism between Bidders —
Drying Hides Extempore — Expedients adopted by a Ranchero to Fill an Order
— Business Rivalry no Cause for Ill-feeling — Frank and George Melius come to
California — ^The Former Marries Here — A Lady's Sarcastic Response — List
of Vessels sent out to Melius — Don Jose Antonio Aguirre as a Trader on the
Coast — Other Incidents in his History — He gets an Insight into the Animus
of Professional Quarrels among American Lawyers, and other American
Customs — He Opposes the Annexation of Cuba in Vigorous Language 359
CHAPTER XLV.
A New Arrival on the Scene, in the Person of Miguel dc Pedrorena — Some-
thing Concerning Him — He Assists in getting Horses for Stockton's Command
— Displays Bravery in Battle — Ingenious Device of Gale and Robinson to Dis-
pose of a Cargo of Merchandise — Indians as Boat-Builders, Boatmen and
Otter Hunters — A Vessel Seized — Her Cargo Confiscated — A Knock-down
on Board — Thompson, the Supercargo, Borne off and Imprisoned— The
Cargo Released and Thompson Set Free — Suicide of Henry Paty at Sea —
Everett Arrives Again on the Bark "Tasso"-— An Exceptionally Disagreeable
Man 366
xviii CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XLVI.
Page.
Young Pacheco and his Studies^His Wealthy Family meets with Misfortune
in the Loss of Live Stock, in the Drouth of 1864— Statement of the Export
Trade in Hides and Tallow— Estimate of Tallow Exportation — Signaling
from Shore for Vessels in the Harbor to come for Fresh Beef — Places for
Slaughtering Cattle — A Ludicrous Gastronomic Contest — Vioget afterwards
Employed by the Author as Captain of the " Euphemia." 375
. CHAPTER XLVH.
An Attempted Partnership Fails— E. & H. Grimes and the Author Purchase
the "Euphemia" — Sheisput into the Honolulu Trade — A Visit to Gen. Castro
— Business Shrewdness — A Gift that is appreciated— The Author Auspiciously
Inaugurated as a Merchant — Ingratiates himself by Firing a Salute from the
Vessel— Guests present at a Party on Shipboard — A Customs Officer afraid of
Scorpions — The Custom House used as a Salesroom — Transactions of Mutual
Accommodation between Merchants, the Customs Officers and Mexican
Government — The Pleasant Surprise of Captain Grimes 383
CHAPTER XLVIII.
The American Flag Hoisted at Monterey — The English Government Cir-
cumvented — A Welcome to "American Soil" — Incidents preceding the Flag-
hoisting — Admiral Seymour Outwitted — Sloat's Hesitancy — Urged by Mervine
to Act without Delay — Commodore Stockton arrives in the " Congress," to
Relieve Commodore Sloat — The "Congress" Anchors in San Francisco
Harbor — The Author and Mervine Cultivate an Acquaintance — A Favorable
Impression of Commodore Stockton — A Grand Reception Tendered him on
Shore — The Commodore shown around by a Mounted Escort — The Influential
Native Californians Accept the Situation Gracefully — Revolt of the "Baser
Sort," in the Southern Portion of the State — Captain Mervine of the "Savan-
nah," then at Monterey, is sent under Orders to Suppress it — A Battle
Ensues — Captain Mervine's Forces driven back to their Vessels 393
CHAPTER XLIX.
Commodore Stockton's Fleet — Fremont Joins the Commodore with his
Troops — A Commendation of Captain Montgomery — His Successor a Ditiferent
Sort of Man — Melancholy Fate of Captain Montgomery's Two Sons — The
" Euphemia " Arrives from Honolulu with a Large and Varied Cargo of Goods
— Rum in Demand— A Fitting Out Suitable for Army and Navy Uses — Lar-
kin Made Prisoner— Mrs. Larkin Despondent in Consequence — Bartlett
and Pickett Arrested— Still a Demand for Rum and Other Liquors— A
Christmas Dinner Eaten in Bunks— Money Plenty— A Man of Self Impor-
tance—An Anecdote Concerning Him— Fremont's Battalion Marches South-
Why the Author was Sent for by Fremont — The General is in Want of Sup-
plies—They arc Furnished by the Author 405
CONTENTS. xix
CHAPTER L.
Page.
Stockton Becomes Impatient at Fremont's Delay — Forms a Militar}' Camp at
Old San Diego — The Military Musicians Entertain the California Ladies at
Dances — The Sailors and Marines are Drilled for Battle — General Kearney
Arrives near San Diego — Sufferings of Kearney's Men — Kearney's Pluck — It
Proves to be Ill-Advised — He is Attacked by the Californians and Worsted —
Accomplishments of Don Andres Pico as a Military Officer — A Hazardous
Mission Successfully Accomplished by Lieutenant Beale — Stockton Sends Rein-
forcements to Kearney, who is brought in, with his Wounded, to San Diego —
Stockton Prepares for a Battle — A Conflict of Authority — March of the Col-
umn — ^The Californians Encountered in Force — Attacks and Repulses of the
Enemy — The Killed and Wounded — Account of the Battle 417
CHAPTER LI.
Retreat of the Californians — They are Intercepted by and Capitulate to
Fremont — The Conquerors march into Los Angeles to the Music of the " Star
Spangled Banner" — Dispersion of the California Troops — Fremont appointed
Governor of California — He Arrives at Los Angeles — Exchange of Courtesies
on Vessels at Sea — The Author takes Advantage of the Situation by Prosecut-
ing Trade — American Soldiers unused to the Spear Thrust — Good Angels to
the Wounded Soldiers — A Young Man who Wounded Kearney Extolled for
his Bravery — The First California Sugar-cane — A Generous Tender of Riding
Animals Accepted — The Tender Repeated by the Accomplished Widow of
Don Tomas Yorba — The Lady's Foresight in Preparing a W^ay with Horses
for Crossing a Swollen Stream — The Author makes a Purchase of Wine from
the Fair Widow — The Author calls at Fremont's Headquarters for a Settle-
ment of his Claim— A Delay Asked for and Granted — Again put off — The
Great Man cannot be Seen ; but at last Condescends to Transact the Author's
Business — The Papers he Signed are Transferred — Stockton a Different Sort
of a Man — His Promptitude in Securing the Payment of Creditors' Claims
against the Government — His Ripe Judgment as a Military Commander 428
CHAPTER LII.
A Harsh Sentence Relented— A Mark of Credit to Fremont — A Reflection
by Native Californians upon the Mexicans and Mexican Government — -The
Author Continues Trade by Vessel — The Passengers on Board — Head-Winds
and a Slow Voyage induce Owner and Passengers to make a Land Journey to
their Point of Destination — Their Vessel beats them to Monterey — A Profit-
able Trade Venture^ — The Author Sails for Honolulu— Money on Board for
Grimes — None for Consul Abell — The Money for Grimes just in Time —
Honolulu gets the Benefit of a Large Marine Commerce from the Pacific
Coast 440
CHAPTER LIII.
Celebrating the Centennial of the Foundation of the Mission Dolores and of
the City of San Francisco — Rev. Father Junipero Serra, President of the
Franciscan Missionaries, in Charge of the Missions in California — The Port
XX CONTENTS.
Page.
of San Francisco Discovered, A. D. 1769 — The Mission Founded October
8, 1776 ; the Presidio Three Weeks Before — The Country Never before Inhab-
ited by Civilized Man — Indians Buried in the Darkness of Paganism — The
Code of Recopilacion de Leges de Indias established by the Spanish Sovereigns
to Protect the Rights of Indians — If in Rebellion, the Indians to be Reduced
with Mildness and Peace, Without War, Theft or Deaths — A Detailed Nar-
ration of the Primitive History of the Presidio, Mission and Pueblo of San
Prancisco . . 447
OHAPTER LIV.
First Experience of a Novice at Tea Drinking — Goods for the Missionaries
on the Hawaiian Islands — Trade between the Islands and China — Loss of the
Brig "Griffin" — A Maritime Race from Santa Barbara to Monterey — Wines
Shipped to California in Small Quantities to Improve in Flavor by the Sea
Voyage — Mrs. Paty presented with a Cask of Wine by Don Louis Vigne— She
Ships it to Honolulu with the Same Object — How the Bulk of the Wine was
Diminished without the Knowledge of its Owner 483
CHAPTER LV.
Lieutenant Bartlett of the " Portsmouth " appointed First-Alcalde at Verba
Buena — George Hyde appointed Second-Alcalde — He resigns the Alcaldeship
after a Two Days' Service, and is appointed First-Alcalde by Captain Hull —
Resigns a Second Time — Bartlett the first Elected Alcalde — He beats Bob
Ridley for the Office, badly — Bartlett is ordered on Board his Vessel, and
Hyde again becomes Alcalde — The name of Verba Buena changed to San
l-'rancisco by Governor Kearney — Petty Charges in regard to a Land Grant
and Alleged Changes in Map and Survey of Lots — Don Jose Ramon Carillo
Encounters a Bear in the Woods — A Fight Ensues — Carillo Slays his
Antagonist — Don Jose Ramon has Further Experience with a Bear — Don
Jose Ramon Carillo Waylaid and Shot Dead by an Unknown Assassin — -Dona
Encarnacion Peralta Witnesses the Capture of a Bear 490
CHAPTER LVI.
A Voyage projected by the Author to Callao, Peru, with a Valuable Cargo —
How it was Frustrated — Supercargo Sherman makes a Judicious Investment in
Goods at Honolulu, and Returns with them in the "Nick of Time"^The
" Euphemia " Sold to the City of San Francisco — The Vessel was Noted
for Profitable Ventures and Good Luck — Major Reading, the Author and
Others Embark in a Flour Speculation to Oregon — The Vessel Employed
Reaches her Point of Destination ; Secures a Cargo, but is Frozen in on the
Columbia River — The Brooklyn Arrives from New Vork in 1846, with 230
Passengers — Sam. Brannan was on Board, at the Head of an Organized Mili-
tary Company — It was their Intention to Hoist the American Flag, but they
were a Little too Late — Many of the New Comers were Mechanics, and the
Humof Industry was Soon Heard — Mr Brannan Extolled as Laying the Corner-
stone of San Francisco's Future Prosperity — Vessels Arrive by the Dozen
from all Parts of the World — The Author Purchases a Sample of Scale Gold
Dust from a Couple of Miners — Its Purity Doubted — It Stands the Acid Test
CONTENTS. xxi
Page.
— Gold Weighing Scales in Demand — Arrival of the First Gold-Seekers — A
Broadside Salute from the Pacific Squadron then in Port — Alfred Robinson,
First Agent of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company — He Still Survives
Beyond the Age of Four Score Years — A Night Alarm — Safety Sought by
Frightened Women — Ruffianly Work of the " Hounds " — Mr. Brannan Takes
the Lead in a Movement Against the Desperadoes — Patrols Organized and
Parade the Streets for Weeks — The "Hounds" when Identified, were
Arrested, Ironed and Placed on Board the Ship " Warren" to Await Trial —
Hall McAllister Appeared Against Them — A Tribute to McAllister — Mr.
Maynard Makes a Survey which Demonstrates the Possibility of Navigating
the Sacramento River with a Vessel of 600 or 800 Tons Burden — He Goes East
and Forms a Syndicate which Purchases the "Senator" — When the Vessel
Arrives in the Bay Mr. Brannan as Spokesman of a Partnership of Four,
Offered $250,000 in Gold Dust for the "Senator," Which was Rejected —
The Vessel not for Sale — The "Senator" Leaves a Memorable Record. .. . 501
CHAPTER LVII.
First Brick Building Erected in San Francisco by the Author — Heavy Rains
Stop the Work for a Season — Teaming Difficult — The Embryo City a Lake of
Mud — How Pedestrians Managed to get About — Commodore Jones Wants to
Remove the Brick Building, and Transport the Material of which it was Com-
posed to Benicia — The Commodore Fails to Make an Impression on the
Author's Mind that Benicia was to be the Future Metropolitan City of the Bay
— The Commodore's Offer Declined — Other Tempting Propositions Rejected
— The Building Subsequently Leased to the Government as a Custom House —
Seiior Jose Antonio Aguirre, the Author and Others Embark in Another
Business Enterprise— The Ship Rhone Chartered and Dispatched to China for
Goods — Why the Speculation Proved a Failure — Flour from Chile — The
Author, with a Parly, Goes on a Gold- Hunting Expedition to Lower California
— Precaution in Tent-Pitching against Rattlesnakes — Don Ramon fond of
Rattlesnakes as Food — An Ancient Olive Orchard — The Party Joined by Don
Manuel Castro and Five Soldiers, an Indian Guide and Interpreter — The Expe-
dition Arrives at Trinidad — The Interpreter Dispatched for /apaje, an Old
Indian Chief, who knew Where the Gold was to be Found^The Chief Comes
into Camp with a Party of His Own — Generous Offers Made to the Old Chief
it he will Reveal where the Gold Exists — He declined Them — His Reason
for so Doing — The Chief obdurate to the End— The Expedition Consequently
a Failure — A Band of large fine Cattle purciiased by the Author from Seiior
Emigdio Bejar in Lower California — The Cattle Arrive at San Leandro in
August 1852 51S
CHAPTER LVHI.
Sefiora Dona Juana Estudillo's Portion of the Pinole Rancho— A Tract of
Seven Thousand Acres — It is named " San Joaquin " by the Author — Four
Thousand Head of Cattle grazing on the "San Joaquin" in 1853— The
" Cybell," with a Cargo of three hundred thousand feet of Pine Lumber, forty
thousand Bricks, and Frames for eight or ten Houses, arrives from Portland,
Maine, in the Summer of 1850— The Author Purchases the Cargo for $10,000
— Building Material a Glut in the San Francisco Market— A Picturesque Spot
xxii CONTENTS.
Pack.
for a Town on the Encinal de Temascal, the present site of the City of Oakland
— The Author's Plans for the Laying Out of the Town — Negotiations with the
Owner of the Rancho for Purchase of the Premises in the Fall of 1846 — Don
Vicente Peralta Refuses to Sell the Property — The Owner Disposes of the
Land in 1850 to Col. Jack Hays, Caperton and others — The Rancho San
Leandro — A History of Squatter Troubles — Litigation Lasting for Years —
The Squatters finally Beaten — They Take Leases from the Estudillo Family
— The County Seat of Alameda County Removed in 1854 from Alvarado to
San Leandro — Mrs. Estudillo and her Children Deed the County Land for
Public Buildings — The town of San Leandro Laid Out, and a Fine Hotel
Built, called the " The Estudillo." 531
CHAPTER LIX.
Ports in the Department where Hides were conveyed through the Surf to
Vessels — An instance of Feminine Self-assertion, manifested by a patriotic
Mexican Lady — An Interview with a Reporter of the San Diego Sun — The
Author imparts Information of Occurrences at the Port of San Diego in 1831
— The First Building and an Extensive Wharf erected at New San Diego by
the Author in 1850 — Military Necessity — The Wharf converted into Fire-wood
by the Soldiers of the United States Army in the Rainy Winter of 1861-62 —
The Congress Appealed to for Compensation — The Senate Passes the Bill —
Why no Adequate Relief was ever Granted — General Nathan Lyon gives a
Dance and Entertainment at Military Headquarters in San Diego — An Enjoy-
able Reunion — Fair Women and Brave Men — Correspondence relating to the
Administration of First-Alcalde Hyde, of the District of San Francisco-
Names of Residents at the Presidio of San Francisco, at the Mission and in
Verba Buena, on the date of Conquest July 8, 1846 547
CHAPTER LX.
First Chinaman in California — Second Arrival of Chinese — Observations by
Mr. McDermett — Observations by Mr. Leeds — Chinese Encroachment —
Chinese Immorality — Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson's Regiment of one
thousand New York Volunteer Soldiers, a portion of the United States Army
of Occupation, Arrives at San Francisco in the month of March, 1847 —
Roster of the commissioned and non-commissioned Officers of the Regiment. , . 571
CHAPTER LXI.
Colonel Stevenson's Arrival at San Francisco — Distribution of Troops —
Mormon Soldiers — Tranquility of California — Good Work of Commodore
Stockton — Arrival of Transports — Colonel Stevenson much Esteemed and
Popular — Death of his Son, Captain Stevenson — Author's Visit to Mount
Vernon — Patriotic Women of the United States — Isaac Williams — Homes of
the Hacendados 584
CHAPTER LXII.
Missions and their Wealth — Hacendados and their Property — Downfall of
the Missions — Cattle, Horses and Sheep in the Department of California. . . . 591
CHAPTER LXIII.
James Alexander Forbes — Record of Arrivals from 1774 to 1847 — Estimate
of Exports of Hides and Tallow — Conclusion 603
Sixty Years in California,
BY
WILLIAM HEATH DAVIS.
CHAPTER I.
Author's first arrival in California — Engages in local trade and commerce with
Sitka and the Hawaiian Islands — Appearance of Sitka — Government
Officers — Social Amenities — At Monterey — Prominent Foreign Residents —
Author's Second Visit to the Coast — An English Brig Discovered — A Race
between the Brig and " Volunteer " — The latter Victorious— In Port a
"Good Time" ensues between the Officers of the Respective Vessels —
List of Trading Vessels — Forts, Military Officers and other Residents of the
Bay Shores — Sea Otter plenty in San Francisco Bay — Tratle Ventures
in Different Directions.
My first visit to California was in 183 1, in the
bark "Louisa" of Boston, captain George Wood, with
J. C. Jones as supercargo and owner and Charles
Smith as assistant supercargo. She had come from
Boston with a carsfo of assorted merchandise to the
Sandwich Islands, where she disposed of a portion of
her goods, and sailed thence to Sitka, and from there
to Monterey, to Santa Barbara, to San Pedro (the port
of Los Angeles), and to San Diego, trading at each of
these points.
At the last named place we received many hides
from the " Volunteer," an American bark, captain J. O.
Carter, supercargo Ebbitts; that vessel as well as the
2 POINTS OP^ INTEREST AT SITKA.
" Louisa," being owned by J. C. Jones, who was a
Boston merchant engaged in trading to ports on the
Pacific coast and the Islands. From San Diego, we
sailed for Honolulu, with a full cargo of hides and a
deck load of horses. The horses were disposed of at
Honolulu, and the hides taken in the vessel to Boston,
on her return voyage.
Among the residents of Monterey at that time were
David Spence, Captain J. B. R. Cooper, Nathan Spear,
James Watson, George Kinlock, William E. P. Hart-
nell, and these men were the most prominent of the
foreigners.
The first three named were enofaofed in merchan-
dising. Kinlock was a ship and house carpenter.
Hartnell was an instructor in the employ of the Mexi-
can government in the department of California, of
which Monterey was the capital.
In trading at Sitka on this trip, we took furs and
Russian money in payment for the goods disposed of
there.
At that time Sitka presented many points of in-
terest. Besides the government fort, the different
residences of the Qrovernor and his staff were fine build-
ings, in the shape of castles or round towers ; each
mounted with guns, as a protection against the Indians,
who were very hostile.
The office of the governor was both civil and
military, He and his officers were gentlemen, highly
educated, refined in manners, intelligent and courteous.
They received us with great hospitality.
SECOND VISIT TO PACIFIC COAST. 3
These gentlemen were from the nobility of Russia.
Their wives and daughters were exceedingly beautiful
and highly accomplished ; they were of medium height,
delicate and symmetrical in form and figure, and exceed-
ingly graceful in their walk and carriage. What struck
me particularly was the wonderful transparency of their
complexions and their rosy cheeks. At my age I was
much impressed with their handsome appearance.
Most of these gentlemen and ladies spoke French
and English in addition to their own language. They
gave family parties and balls for our entertainment,
which were conducted with great elegance and refine-
ment.
In return we eave two or three entertainments on
board the " Louisa," the vessel on each occasion being
handsomely decorated with the flags of almost every
nation, the Russian flag flying at the foremast. On
the arrival of the governor with his staff, and the ladies
of their families, he received a salute corresponding to
his rank.
In 1833 I visited this coast again in the Boston bark
" Volunteer," captain Thomas Shaw ; J. C. Jones, owner
and supercargo ; Sherman Peck, assistant supercargo.
Jones went from Boston to the Sandwich Islands about
1820 or 1 82 1, and became U. S. consul, and during
his consulship made voyages between Boston and the
Islands and to other points. During his absence his
duties were performed by a deputy, Stephen Reynolds,
of Boston. We arrived at Monterey and sailed thence
to San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, San Pedro, San
4 A TRIP FROM THE SOUTH.
Dieo-Q. and returned, touching and trading at these
places. We then came to the harbor of San Francisco,
and anchored in a cove known as Yerba Buena or Lo-
ma Alta Cove, Yerba Buena being San Francisco, and
Loma Alta is Telegraph Hill. At that time there were
trading on the coast at different points the ship "Alert,"
of Boston, captain Thompson ; ship " California," of
Boston, captain James Arthur, supercargo Alfred Rob-
inson ; the English brig " Arecucha," captain John Wil-
son, supercargo James Scott, both being owners ; the
American brig " Bolivar Liberator," captain Nye ; the
Boston bark " Don Quixote," captain John Meek, super-
cargo William S. Hinckley ; and the Mexican brig
" Leonidas," formerly U. S. vessel of war " Dolphin,"
captain Juan Malarin, owner and supercargo Don Jose
Antonio Aguirre.
As the " Volunteer" approached the bay of San
Francisco on the trip from the south just mentioned,
she was becalmed and compelled to lie to in a fog.
About II o'clock in the forenoon the fog lifted and dis-
appeared from the horizon, and as it did so we noticed
the English brig " Arecucha," also becalmed, lying near
us, almost within hailing distance, she also having just
come from the southern ports, bound for Yerba Buena.
We were then about twenty-five miles west of the
entrance to the bay.
The " Arecucha" was claimed by her owners to be
the fastest vess(;l on the coast, and this was conceded
by all the captains except captain Shaw of the " Vol-
unteer," who was very proud of our pretty bark, and
THE "volunteer" WINS A RACE. 5
her superior sailing qualities, and had often remarked
to me that he desired an opportunity for a trial of speed
between the two vessels.
The opportunity now presented itself, and he de-
termined to avail himself of it, to the delicjht of all on
board. The captain i^ave orders to prepare for the ex-
citing race, which was obeyed with alacrity by all with
smilins: faces. The " Arecucha" beino^ a little to the
west of us, took the trade wind first, it having sprung
up as the fog cleared, and so had the lead.
Captain' Shaw, approaching me on the quarter-deck,
said, •' Billy, she will not maintain that position long."
The breeze freshened, both vessels put on more sail,
and we began slowly and surely to gain on the brig.
Captain Shaw, standing by the man at the wheel, said,
*' I want to pass her within hailing distance." "Aye,
aye, sir," was the response. When abreast of the brig,
captain Shaw called to the steward to bring him the
speaking trumpet, and on receiving it, he hailed the
other vessel with "Captain Wilson how do you do?"
The reply came, " I am well, thank you ; Captain Shaw,
you are gaining on me fast." When the stern of our
vessel was about abreast of the forecastle of the brig,
three cheers from the "Volunteer" rent the air, spon-
taneously given by the crew, and they were returned
from the brig. We anchored about fifteen minutes
before she did, in the present anchorage at the port of
San Francisco, and our captain and all the crew were
joyous and happy, as they had beaten the vessel reputed
to be the fastest on the coast.
O SOCIAL AMENITIES.
The race had been very excitino-, both vessels
flying their national colors, and spreading their sails to
the fullest extent, the captain of each standing on the
quarter-deck, watching every movement and trimming
sails to catch every portion of the breeze.
In the evening, the captain and supercargo of the
" Arecucha" came on board the " Volunteer," and spent
a few hours, and the race formed the subject of conver-
sation ; Wilson admitting that he w^as fairly beaten for
the first time. A good many social glasses passed over
the event, and the best feeling prevailed. This little
episode was an illustration of the national feeling of
pride existing between the English and Americans.
The Presidio was the military post, where all the
white inhabitants lived, and was commanded by Captain
M. G. Vallejo, now General Vallejo, There were
probably at the barracks, including soldiers, between
two and three hundred men, women and children.
The soldiers were native Californians, all vaqueros,
all horsemen. Captain Vallejo was then only recently
married to his beautiful bride, Doiia Francisca Benicia
Carrillo. Fort Point was garrisoned, and was then
known as Punta de Castillo, or Castle Point, and was
also under the command of Captain Vallejo.
Among the foreigners who were here at that time
were Captain William A. Richardson, a native of Eng-
land, the owner of the Saucelito ranch, who was mar-
ried to the daughter of the late Captain Ygnacio Mar-
tinez, who commanded the Presidio and Fort Point
military posts previous to the command of Vallejo ;
TRADE ON THE COAST. 7
John Read, of Ireland, who subsequently was the
owner of the Read ranch adjoining the Saucelito ranch ;
Timothy Murphy, of Ireland, and James Black, of
Scotland.
Murphy was a sea otter-hunter, making his head-
quarters at the Presidio and the Mission of San Rafael.
The sea otters were plentiful in the bay, and at Bodega
and other points along the coast. The skins were
quite valuable, worth from $40 to $50, and sometimes
as high as $60 apiece. They were sold to the Boston
ships that traded on the coast. Read became a stock-
raiser on his ranch. Richardson commanded a vessel,
and traded up and down the coast, and on the coast of
Peru and Chile. He made his headquarters at Verba
Buena. He got his goods at Callao and Lima, mostly
English and German, which had been sent there from
Europe. For them he exchanged tallow and furs
which he had collected about the coast. He was sail-
ing for a Lima house. Black was a cattle-raiser and
otter-hunter, and became owner of ranches in Marin
county. He died a few years ago, leaving to his heirs
a larQ^e fortune in land and cattle.
The trade on the coast at that time was mostly a
barter trade. The currency was hides and tallow, with
considerable sea otter, land otter and beaver skins, the
latter being obtained on the Sacramento and San Joa-
quin rivers.
.^^
CHAPTER II.
The San Francisco Mission— The Padres as Instructors — Their Possessions in
Live Stock and Natural Productions — Hostile Indians Captured, Civil-
ized and Christianized — Goods sold to the Padres, for Hides, Tallow
Peltries and Money — Other Missions — San Francisco in 1S33 — Marriage
of Thomas O. Larkin on board the " Volunteer," at Santa Barbara — Fest-
ivities that Followed — The " Volunteer'' trades to Honolulu — The Author
Sails on Board to that City.
The Mission of San Francisco de Asis, usually
called the Mission Dolores, situated one league from
the site of Verba Buena, on the west side of the bay
of San Francisco, contained at this time, August, 1833,
about 2000 Indians, more or less civilized, well clothed.
Among them were blacksmiths, shipwrights, carpenters,
tailors, shoe-makers and masons, all of whom had
learned these trades at the Mission, under the superin-
tendence of the Padres. They had also learned the
Spanish language, as a general thing had acquired
habits of industry, and had become civilized and
Christianized. Many of them could read and write.
Padre Ouijas was at the head of the Mission Do-
lores, and administrator of the establishment. He had
abaut 10, 030 head of cattle, many thousand head of
horses an.I m u-es, and a vast number of sheep.
The dom:iin of the Mission extended to what is
now known as San Mateo, includinof the rancho of Buri
Buri, formerly owned by Don Jose Sanchez and his
family.
INDIANS AT THE MISSIONS.
I visited the Mission Dolores frequently during
our stay at the port here, was always kindly received
by the Padre, and drank as fine red California wine as
I ever have since, manufactured at the Mission from
grapes brought from the Missions of Santa Clara and
San Jose.
The Indians were captured by the military who
went into the interior of the country in pursuit of them,
detachments of soldiers being frequently sent out from
the Presidio and other military posts in the department
on these expeditions, to bring the wild Indians into the
Missions to be civilized and converted to Christianity,
Sometimes two or three hundred would be brought in
at a time — men, women and children — from the foot-
hill region of the Sierra Nevadas and the San Joaquin
and Sacramento valleys. They were immediately
turned over to the Padres at the different Missions,
generally with a guard of a corporal and ten soldiers to
assist the priest in keeping them until they had become
somewhat tamed. They were kindly treated, and soon
became domesticated and ready and eager to adopt the
habits of civilized life. They gradually lost their desire
to return to their former mode of life.
After they had become adapted to their new con-
dition their influence on the later arrivals of Indians
was very marked. These yielded much more readily to
the civilizing influence exerted upon them than those
first captured. They were baptized and the children
christened and taught in schools and in hibiis of in-
dustry. Many of them were employed to look after
lO TRADE WITH MISSION FATHERS.
the Stock belonging to the Missions, and became expert
horsemen and vaqueros.
During our stay in the bay (about three or four
weeks) we sokl some fifteen or twenty thousand dollars'
worth of goods to Padre Quijas. We received in pay-
ment hides and tallow, sea and land otter skins, and
beaver skins, and also some Spanish and Mexican
doubloons, which had probably been laid away for many
years.
The goods were mostly sugar, tea, coffee, clothing,
and blankets for the Indians.
There were blankets manufactured at the Mis-
sions, of a very coarse texture, from the wool of their
sheep. They were known as Mission blankets, and
used at the Missions mostly.
We also sold to the Missions of Santa Clara
and San Jose a large amount of goods, which was sent
to them in launches to what is now known as Alviso
Landing, for which we received in payment hides,
tallow, furs and some coin — Mexican and Spanish
doubloons. ' >
The Missions of Santa Clara and San Jose were
richer in cattle, horses and sheep than the Mission Do-
lores, and each of them had a much larger number of
Indians. The Mission Dolores was considered a poor
Mission compared to these other two. The Mission
of San Rafael was also in existence, and that was in-
ferior to the Mission Dolores.
In 1833 there was not a single inhabitant of what
is now known as the City and County of San Francisco
outside of the Presidio and the Mission.
A marriagp: on the "volunteer." II
At the place where Portsmouth Square now is there
was a growing crop of Irish potatoes — a patch about the
size of the square — enclosed by a brush fence, the crop
having been planted by Candelario Miramontes, who
resided near the Presidio with his family. One of his
sons loaned me a beautiful horse to ride to the Presidio
and Mission Dolores whenever it suited my pleasure to
do so. I had him picketed with a long rope, for
pasturage, at a place which is now the block between
Pacific and Jackson and Montgomery and Sansome
streets.
When we left the bay of San Francisco we traded
down the coast at different points. While stopping at
Santa Barbara, Thomas O. Larkin, who was afterwards
United States Consul at Monterey, was married on
board the bark " Volunteer " by Mr. J. C. Jones, acting
in his capacity as consul.
The bride was a Massachusetts lady whose name
has passed from my memory. We had a wedding
festival, which was attended by the elite of Santa
Barbara — beautiful ladies, mothers and daughters, with
their husbands and sons, all of Castilian extraction.
There was music with dancing, commencing soon after
the marriage, and kept up till a late hour in the evening.
Native California wine and imported sparkling
champagne were freisly used, and all had a very enjoy-
able time.
On reaching San Diego our vessel was turned over
to captain Joseph O. Carter, of the American schooner
12 VOYAGE TO HONOLULU.
" Harriet Blanchard," both vessels being owned by J.
C. Jones.
Shaw took command of the latter, and Jones and
myself went in her to Honolulu, with a cargo of hides,
some furs, and also thirty head of fine California horses
for a deck load. Sherman remained in the " Volun-
teer " as supercargo. The horses were sold at
Honolulu and the hides transferred to another vessel
about to sail for Boston.
CHAPTER III.
The Author Returns May, 1S38, on the "Don Quixote" — A Protracted Battle
without Human Bloodshed — At Monterey on the "Don Quixote" — Further
Enumeration of Trading Vessels — The Voyage to Sacramento — The
Author's Schooner the Flag Ship — Captain Sutter on Board — He unfolds to
the Author his Future Plans — The Nativity of Captain Sutter — A Plague of
Mosquitos — Captain Sutter Landed — A Salute which Astonishes the Indians
and Wild Beasts— The Salute Answered with Cheers — Return Voyage —
Provisions Scarce — Unexpected Food Supply Received.
The "Don Quixote" arrived in Santa Barbara
from Boston via Honolulu, in May, 1838, and I was a
passenger on her, this being my third trip to California.
We found Governor Alvarado there, and the depart-
ment in a revolutionary state. He was opposed by
Don Carlos Carillo and his brother Don Jose An-
tonio Carillo, who were at Los Anofeles.
At the above date Governor Alvarado was at his
headquarters at Santa Barbara provisionally, and the
brothers Carillo were at Los Anofeles. Thev met on
the plains of Los Angeles, where a battle ensued, and
four or five horses on each side were shot ; but none of
the soldiers lost their lives — not even one was wounded
— though the conflict lasted for a day or two, as they
took the precaution to keep at a safe distance from
each other,
Alvarado's force was commanded by General Jose
Castro, and the revolutionary party by Jose Antonio
Carillo.
14 A REVOLUTIONARY EPISODE.
Alvarado sustained his authority as governor of
the department of CaHfornia, and the revokitionists
were considered as subdued after this bloodless conflict.
Some of the leaders were taken prisoners, but shortly
after released, and the remainder dispersed.
Previous to this affair our vessel was ordered by Al-
varado to go from Santa Barbara to Monterey to enter,
that being the only port of entry in the department.
At Monterey I stopped with Major William War-
ren, then keeping a store there for Nathan Spear, who
had also a commercial establishment at Yerba Buena
in company with Jacob P. Leese and William S. Hinck-
ley.
During my stay there of two or three weeks, the
severe earthquake of June, 1838, took place. At Mon-
terey at that time were David Spence, Thomas O. Lar-
kin, U. S. consul, John B. R. Cooper, Major William
Warren, James Watson, a grocer, George Kinlock,
James Stokes, merchant, Edward T. Bale, physician,
a native of England, William P. Hartnell, the Mexi-
can government instructor and interpreter. These
were the prominent foreigners there. Among the
Mexicans and Californlans were Jose Abrigo, Man-
ual Dias, Don Antonio Maria Osio, Collector of the
Port ; Juan Malavin, Estevan Munrass, Don Pablo
de la Guerra, Raphael Gonzales, Raphael Pinto, (the
last three connected with the Custom House), also,
Jacinto Rodriguez, Jose Ameste, Don Manuel Castro,
Francisco Pacheco, who were engaged in stock-raising ;
MERCHANTS AT VERBA BUENA. 1 5
Mariano Soveranes, Jose Antonio Vallejo, also engaged
in stock-raising, and a brother of General Vallejo.
At that time the following vessels were trading on
the coast : The English brig " Arecucha," the Peruvian
brigantine " Delmira," captain John Vioget, supercargo
and owner Don Miguel Pedrorena ; the ship " Alert,"
ship " California," the Mexican brig " Catalina," cap-
tain Jo. Snooks, supercargo Don Eulojio de Celis ;
the Mexican bark "Clarita," captain Walter; same
supercargo as the "Catalina;" the Mexican Govern-
ment schooner " California," captain Cooper ; and the
Boston bark " Don Quixote," captain John Paty,
I sailed from Monterey to Yerba Buena in the ship
*' Alert," well known as the vessel on which Dana served
for two years, which experience gave rise to his book,
" Two Years Before the Mast." She was commanded
by captain D. P. Penhallow, supercargo Thomas B.
Park. The ship was owned in Boston by Bryant &
Sturgis, and was on this coast trading for hides, tallow
and furs.
On arriving at Yerba Buena I went into the employ
of Nathan Spear, and soon became his managing ac-
tive business man.
He was a native of Boston, Mass., brother of Paul
Spear, a prominent apothecary in Boston, and visited
Monterey, California, as early as 1823, in the American
schooner " Rover," together with Captain J. B. R.
Cooper.
Mr. Nathan Spear was one of the first merchants
at Monterey and Yerba Buena, and kept a stock of
1 6 A REMARKABLE EARTHQUAKE.
general merchandise, which was sold to the native Cal-
ifornia farmers and stock-raisers around the bay. The
goods were carried to different points by two little
schooners owned by Spear, named the " Isabel" and
" Nicholas."
Mr. Spear informed me that during the earthquake
of June, '3S, before mentioned, a large sand-hill stand-
ing in the vicinity of what is now Fremont street, be-
tween Howard and Folsom, and between which and
the bay at high tide there was a space of about twenty
feet, permitting a free passage along the shore to Rin-
con Point (the coves of which were then much resorted
to for picnics and mussel parties), was moved bodily
close to the water, so as to obstruct the passage along
the shore. After that no one could pass there at high
tide, and we were compelled to go around back of the
sand-hill, and wade through the loose sand to reach that
point, a much more laborious walk.
Early in the spring of '39, the American ship "Mon-
soon, "of Boston, captain George Vincent, Thomas
Shaw supercargo, arrived at Yerba Buena from Mon-
terey with an assorted cargo. My brother, Robert G.
Davis, from Boston, was a clerk on board.
In the month of June the brigantine "Clementine,"
captain Blinn, arrived from Honolulu, by way of Sitka.
Captain John A. Sutter, with four or five Germans or
Swiss, who were mechanics, and three Hawaiians and
their wives were passengers. He had gone from one
of the Eastern States to Honolulu, thence to Sitka,
thence to California. Sutter stayed with Nathan Spear,
sutter's expedition north. 17
with all his men and his outfit, and intended to go to the
Sacramento valley. When he was ready to proceed,
our expedition, composed of the two schooners, " Isa-
bel" and " Nicholas," and a four-oared boat which Sut-
ter brought with him, started with Sutter and his fol-
lowers. Sutter had two pieces of artillery which he
brought with him, and other arms and ammunition for
defense against the I ndians, if necessary. The fleet was
placed under my command.
We left Yerba Buena on the 9th of August, 1839,
from alongside the ship " Monsoon " (the only vessel in
the bay) for the Sacramento valley, concerning which
there was but little known at that time. It had no in-
habitants but Indians, many of whom were Mission In-
dians who had left as the Missions became impover-
ished and located there. They returned to their former
uncivilized life, making occasional visits to the different
ranchos to steal horses.
The fleet was about eight days going up the river;
every night we would stop at the bank, and Captain
Sutter would make excursions from the river to examine
the country, looking for a suitable place to establish
himself. His idea was to settle, and obtain grants from
the Mexican government. I think he had an under-
standing with that government before he went there,
probably with the Mexican minister in the United
States. When stopping along the bank of the river at
night we could not obtain any rest on account of the
immense multitude of mosquitoes which prevailed, ex-
ceeding anything we ever experienced before.
1 8 PLANS FOR DEFENSE AGAINST INDIANS.
The last afternoon we anchored in front of what is
now Sacramento City, and saw on the banks of the river
some seven or eight hundred Indians, men, women and
children. We prepared ourselves for an attack, but our
fears proved groundless. They came off to our anchor-
age in large numbers in canoes made of tules. That
afternoon we weighed anchor and went into the Ameri-
can river, landed, pitched tents, and made preparations
to occupy the country.
Captain Sutter immediately mounted his brass can-
nons ; all his small arms were made ready for defense
against the Indians in case of necessity, and camp es-
tablished.
On the way up the Sacramento river, Captain Sut-
ter being on board my schooner, which was considered
the flag-ship of the fleet, communicated tome his plans.
He said, as soon as he found a suitable site he would
immediately build a fort, as a means of defense against
the Indians, and also against the government of the
department of California, in case any hostility should be
manifested in that quarter. He also mentioned his in-
tention to form a laro-e colonv of his own countrvmen
to come to this coast, with a view of developing the im-
mense Sacramento valley.
Captain Sutter was a native of Switzerland, an edu-
cated and accomplished gentlemen, and a very agreeable
and entertaining companion.
Having accomplished my purpose of landing Cap-
tain Sutter at the junction of the American and Sacra-
A SALUTE IN THE WILDERNESS. 1 9
mento rivers with his men and his freight, the following
morning we left him there, and headed the two vessels
for Verba Buena. As we moved away Captain Sutter
gave us a parting salute of nine guns — the first ever
fired at that place — which produced a most remarkable
effect. As the heavy report of the guns and the echoes
died away, the camp of the little party was surrounded
by hundreds of Indians, who w^ere excited and aston-
ished at the unusual sound. A large number of deer,
elk and other animals on the plains were startled, run-
ning to and fro, stopping to listen, their heads raised,
full of curiosity and wonder, seemingly attracted and
fascinated to the spot, while from the interior of the
adjacent wood the howls of wolves and coyotes filled
the air, and immense flocks of water fowl flew wildly
about over the camp.
Standing on the deck of the " Isabel" I witnessed
this remarkable sight, which filled me with astonishment
and admiration, and made an indelible impression on my
mind. This salute was the first echo of civilization in
the primitive wilderness so soon to become populated,
and developed into a great agricultural and commercial
centre. We returned the salute with nine cheers from
the schooners, the vessels flying the American colors.
The cheers were heartily responded to by the little gar-
rison, and thus we parted company.
The voyage down the river occupied eight days.
As we approached its termination we were nearly
starved. We were reduced to living on brown sugar,
that being all that remained of our provisions.
20 SUPPLIED WITH GOOD BEEF,
The day before we reached Yerba Buena we an-
chored where the town of Martinez now is, the place
being" then known as Canada del Hambre (Valley of
Huno^er), from the fact that on one occasion a company of
soldiers who were out campaigning against the Indians
found themselves very hungry. While at this place we
were without the means of obtaining food. Our own
situation coincided with that of the soldiers, and we
landed with a view to kill some game or capture a steer.
We adopted the latter course. Jack Rainsford, who
commanded the " Isabel," killed a fine steer belonging"
to Don Ygnacio Martinez, our necessity compelling" this
step, and we were thus supplied with plenty of good
beef.
On meeting Don Ygnacio Martinez subsequently
and informino- him of the circumstance, he said it was
entirely satisfactory, and regretted that he \vas not there
at the time to supply us with bread, butter and cheese
to eat with the beef. This was certainly a fine instance
of gentlemanly courtesy and generosity.
CHAPTER IV.
More Names of Residents around the Bay of San Francisco.
In 1838 the following were the prominent families
around the bay of San Francisco : At the Mission Do-
lores were Francisco de Haro, then alcalde, who was
married to the daughter of Don Jose Sanchez ; Fran-
cisco Guerrero, who was afterward alcalde and sub-
prefect ; Tiburcio Vasquez, Dona Carmen Cibrian,
Candelario Valencia, married to the daughter of Don
Jose Sanchez ; Jesus Valencia, married to another
daughter of Sanchez ; Don Jesus Noe. The residence
of Don Jose Sanchez was at Buri Buri, which place he
owned. It contained 8000 head of cattle and a great
many horses and mares. His sons, who lived there
also, were Jose La Cruz, Francisco, Manuel, Chino and
Ysidro. Captain Juan Prado Mesa, who resided with
his family at the Presidio, was in command of the mili-
tary post there.
At the Rancho Pinole, near Martinez, resided
Teniente Ygnacio Martinez, with his family. At the
Rancho San Pablo, Don Joaquin Castro, with his
mother. Dona Gabriella Berreyesa de Castro, and his
brothers, Antonio, Gabriel, Victor and Jesus Maria.
At Temescal were Don Domingo Peralta and Vicente
Peralta. At San Antonio, Ygnacio Peralta and his
family, and Antonio Maria Peralta and his family. At
the Rancho San Leandro resided Don Jose Joaquin
2 2 THE OWNERS OF RANCHOS.
Estudillo and family. At the Rancho San Lorenzo,
Guillermo Castro and family. At the Mission of San
Jose, Jose Jesus Vallejo, brother of General Vallejo,
who was then administrator of that Mission, which re-
tained some of its former wealth. At Milpitas resided
Don Jose Crisostimo Galindo and family; James Alex-
ander Forbes, who was married to a daughter of the
latter, and was then acting as British vice-consul, a na-
tive of Scotland. He was a thorough Spanish scholar.
There were also Jose Maria Alviso (chico) and family.
At Agua Calienta was Don Flujencio Higuera and
family. At the Pueblo San Jose, Don Antonio Sunol,
a native of Spain, a merchant ; the Bernal families ;
Don Antonio Maria Pico and family ; Don Luis Peralta,
the father of those before mentioned, with his daugh-
ters, he being then nearly a hundred years old. He
was a native of Sonora, and had emigrated to this part
of the country when a boy. At Santa Clara were Dona
Soledad Otega Arguello, widow of Don Luis Arguello,
one of the early governors of the department of Cal-
ifornia, who owned the Rancho Las Pulgas (which
means the F"leas) in San Mateo county, now possessed
by his heirs ; also Don Ygnacio Alviso, with his amiable
wife, to whom I am indebted fo.r numerous kindnesses.
At these different places there were many others,
mostly foreigners, engaged in commercial pursuits.
At Sonoma were General M. G. Vallejo and family,
he being commander-in-chief of the forces of the depart-
ment. His military headquarters were at that place.
WEALTH IX CATTLE AND HORSES. 23
He owned the Rancho Petaluma, with thousands of cat-
tle and horses. The Rancho Suscol was a national
ranch under his control, heavily stocked with cattle
and horses. At Sonoma, also, was Salvador Vallejo,
brother of the ofeneral, who owned a laree ranch in
Napa Valley, with thousands of cattle and horses.
Nicholas Higuera lived at Napa, and was engaged rais-
ing stock ; so were Cayetano Juarez and Don Joaquin
Pina and family. At Santa Rosa resided Doiia Maria
Ygnacia Lopez de Carrillo, with her beautiful daugh-
ters, J nana and Felicidad. Mrs. Carrillo was the grand-
mother of ex-Governor Romualdo Pacheco and mother-
in-law of General V^allejo. At San Rafael were Timothy
Murphy, Ygnacio Pacheco and family, and Domingo
Sais. At Read's Ranch was John Read, who married
the daughter of Don Jose Sanchez, with his family.
At Saucelito were Captain William A. Richardson and
family.
CHAPTER V.
Station of the Russian Fur Company, and its Officers — The Force engaged Hunt-
ing Sea Otters — Value of the Otter Skins and where they were Sold —
Captain Sutter Purchases the Russian Buildings and Outfits — A Fourth
of July Celebration in 1S39 — Parties in Attendance — Vessel Arrivals in
1S39.
On my arrival in 1838 the Russian Fur Company
had a post at Bodega and also one at Fort Ross, with
headquarters at the latter place.
Pedro Kostromitnoff was the governor of the es-
tablishment, under lease from the Mexican govern-
ment, which covered the privilege of hunting the sea
otter and collecting forces at that point for that pur-
pose, ^which lease expired a few years afterward.
Before the expiration of the lease Kostromitnoff
was succeeded by Don Alexander Rotcheff, who sold
the entire establishment, the Improvements and every-
thing, in 1 84 1, to Captain John A. Sutter, of New
Helvetia, which was the name of his fort on the Sac-
ramento. The force engaged in hunting the sea otter
numbered several hundred of Russians and Esquimaux,
brought from Alaska with all their outfits — boats, skin
canoes (made from the intestines of the whale) and
their native instruments.
They were expert shooters with their Russian
rifles, made for the purpose of killing otters, showing
great skill in the business, which they carried on here
the same as in Sitka.
Going out in their boats, the moment an otter ap-
peared above the water a gun was raised and fired, in-
SUTTER BUYS OUT THE RUSSIANS. 25
stanlly killing the animal, so expert were these hunters.
Bodega was the port of outfit and delivery from the
hunt.
These otters were captured in large quantities in
the bay of San Francisco, and along the coast south
and north of the bay ; but the hunting was continued
so persistently that they became scarce after a while
and finally were killed out entirely. The skins varied
from three and one-half to five and one-half feet in
length, with a width of about three feet, and were
dried at Bodega, and sent to Sitka in vessels that came,
two or three yearly, for this freight, for wheat raised
about the bay of San Francisco and soap made by
the California farmers. The wheat and soap were for
the supply of Sitka and other northern Russian posts
in Alaska Territory. From Sitka these skins were
sent to St. Petersburg.
Some of the men had their families with them.
Don Pedro Kostromitnoff was unmarried ; Don Alex-
ander Rotcheff was a married man ; and his wife was a
beautiful Russian lady, of accomplishments. They lived
at Fort Ross.
Sutter bought whatever the Russian Company had,
the buildings and all the fixtures of the places, both at
Bodega and Fort Ross, for $50,000, payable in wheat,
soap and furs, in yearly installments for five years, the
purchase including several thousand cattle, horses and
sheep. It was all paid for in the course of time as
agreed by the articles named. The wheat was raised
26 CELEBRATING INDEPENDENCE DAY.
in the Sacramento valley in and around his establish-
ment.
At the first celebration of the fourth of July, in
1839, at Yerba Buena, the families of the prominent
residents before mentioned were invited to the festivity,
which was managed by the Americans attached to the
three or four American vessels in port, and those living
on shore.
The celebration was at the residence of Jacob P.
Leese, situated at a point which is now Dupont street,
between Washington and Clay streets.
The invitations extended to the persons living about
the bay were quite generally accepted. Among the
most notable of them were : Don Joaquin Estudillo, with
his beautiful wife and lovely daughter Doiia Concepcion ;
Don Ygnacio Martinez, with his handsome daughters,
Doiia Susanna, Doiia Francisca, Dona Rafaela and
Doiia Dolores ; Captain William A. Richardson with
his wife and pretty daughter, Sefiorita Mariana, who
was one c-f the belles of the country ; Don Victor Castro
and his amiable wife, Dona Louisa, daughter of Don
Ygnacio Martinez ; also the sub-prefect, Don Francisco
Guerrero, and his pretty wife, Doiia Josefa ; and Alcalde
Don Francisco de I laro, with his charming daughters,
Rosalia and Natividad.
Salutes were fired from the vessels at meridian of
the Fourth, a grand dinner took place during the
eveninij, and there was music as well as dancino- after
the banquet, kept up till the dawn of the next day.
PICNICS AT VERBA BUENA. 2/
On the fifth, picnics took place, as a continuation
of the festival, generally at Point Rincon; the dance was
resumed in the evening, and continued until the morn-
ing of the sixth, when the ladies had become so ex-
hausted that the festivities ceased. This celebration
was kept up year after year on the Fourth, for a long
time, until the change of the government from Mexico
to the United States, being attended by the native ladies
of California, many of whom were noted for their beauty,
and such American gentlemen as were here at the time.
Richardson was the captain of the port or bay of
San Francisco for many years, an office of the depart-
ment, under appointment from the Mexican governor
of California ; this position being equivalent to that of
harbor-master under our present law\ Upon vessels
coming into the bay it was his duty to order them to
Monterey, then the port of entry, for the purpose of
entry at the custom house.
The vessels which arrived in 1839 at Monterey,
entered there, and traded at coast ports, as near as I
can remember, w^ere the ship '' California," captain
Arthur, from Boston, William D. M. Howard, cabin boy;
the vessel was consigned to Alfred Robinson and Henry
Melius, agents for Bryant & Sturgis, ot Boston ; the
Baltimore brig "Corsair," captain \Vm. S. Hinckley,
who was also owner and supercargo, from Callao ; the
ship " Fama," captain Hoyer, A. B. Thompson owner
and supercargo ; the American schooner ' Nymph,"
captain Henry Paty, who was also supercargo, from
Honolulu.
CHAPTER VI.
Thousands of Elk on ]Mare Island —Elk captured with the Lariat by the Rancheros
— Dangers of the Sport — Ranchos with Large Herds of Live Stock —
Ranches around the Bay in 1838 — Wealth of Bay Residents in Land and
Live Stock — Indians as Farmers and Vaqueros — Indian Steam Baths.
On Mare Island I often saw in the years from '40
to '43, as many as two or three thousand elk, it being
their habit to cross and re-cross by swimming between
the island and the main land, and I remember on one
occasion when on the schooner /' Isabel," of sailing
through a band of these elk, probably not less than a
thousand, which were then crossing from Mare Island
to the main land. It was a grand and exciting scene.
The captain of the boat wanted to shoot at some
of them, but I prev^ented him from doing so, because
we could not stop to get the game on board and I did
not like to see the elk wantonly destroyed.
These elk were killed for their hides and tallow
by the rancheros in considerable numbers, at the time
they slaughtered their cattle. They would go out to
the haunts of the elk, and capture them by the lasso,
which was used by them on all occasions, and after kill-
ing the animils, secure the hides and tallow on the spot,
leaving the carcasses. The tallow of the elk was
superior to that of the bullock, whiter and firmer, and
made better candles.
This work was much more dangerous and exciting
than the killing of cattle, and required the very best
CATTLE FARMS ENUMERATED. 29
broken saddle horses and those most accustomed to the
lasso, and also the best vaqueros, on account of the
strength, agility, fleetness and fierceness of the elk.
Great skill was also required in throwing the lasso, (the
loop of which was made larger than for cattle on account
of the wide-spreading horns of the elk), and in hold-
ino- them after the lasso was cast.
o
In 1 838 and 1839 the prominent ranches or cattle
farms about the bay of San Francisco and in the vicinity
were as follows : On the north side of the bay at the
Mission of San Rafael were three or four thousand cattle
and horses. At Bodega and Fort Ross, the Russian
American Fur Company, which has already been de-
scribed, had two or three thousand head of cattle,
twelve or fifteen hundred horses and numerous sheep.
At Petaluma, was the rancho of Don Mariano Guada-
lupe Vallejo, with about ten thousand head of cattle,
four to six thousand horses and a large number of sheep.
Where the town of Santa Rosa now stands was
the Rancho Santa Rosa, owned by Dona Maria Ygnacia
Lopez de Carrillo, with about three thousand head of
cattle and twelve to fifteen hundred horses and some
sheep. Adjoining the Santa Rosa on the north was
the rancho of Marcus West, an Englishman, with
about 1 500 cattle and 500 or 600 horses.
The rancho of Don Salvador \'allejo was located in
Napa Valley, and contained from 5000 or 6000 cattle
and about 2000 horses; adjoining him on the east was
Nicholas Higuera, with about 2000 cattle and 1000
30 CARQUIXEZ STRAITS AND RAX'CHO PINOLE.
horses ; to the south of the latter Cayetano J uarez, with
a few hundred cattle and horses ; adjoining- him to the
south was the National Rancho Suscol in charge of
General Vallejo, This was reserved by the Mexican
government for the purpose of supplying the troops of
the department of California with cattle and horses.
It contained 5000 head of cattle, and two or three
thousand horses, in charge of a corporal and eight or
ten soldiers, the latter being utilized as vaqueros for
the purpose of managing this stock. It may be men-
tioned here as a matter of interest that all the native
Californians (the term meaning those of Spanish ex-
traction) were trained to horsemanship, and naturally
became vaqueros, being very expert with the riata
and skilled in the traininof and manacrement of horses
and cattle.
On the south side of Carquinez strait was the Rancho
Pinole, owned by Don Ygnacio Martinez, with 8000
head of cattle and about 1000 horses. This rancho
derived its name from the parched corn, ground up,
known as pinole, and which was used everywhere and
especially by the Mexican troops as food in their cam-
paigns against the Indians; it was commonly mixed
with a little pa HOC /la (sugar) and water, and was very
palatable and nutritious. This food, together with the
game killed by the soldiers, such as elk, deer, antelope —
and beef, constituted their whole fare when in the field.
Adjoining this rancho, on the southeast side, was
the Rancho Boca de la Canada del Pinole, owned by
SITE OF OAKLAND AND ALAMEDA. 3 1
Felipe Briones, with a i'cw hundred cattle and horses ;
to the west of the Rancho Pinole was the San Pablo,
owned by the Castro family, with four or five thousand
head of cattle and one or two thousand horses.
To the south of San Pablo was the Rancho San
Antonio, owned by Don Luis Peralta, who prior to his
death divided the tract among his four sons, Ygnacio,
Domingo, Antonio Maria and Vicente. A portion of it
is now occupied by the cities of Oakland and Alameda.
This rancho carried 8000 head of cattle and 2000 head
of horses and mares ; it extended on the south to San
Leandro creek. To the east of this was the Rancho
Moraga, owned by Don Joaquin Moraga, with about
800 cattle and a few hundred horses.
South of San Antonio was the Rancho San Le-
andro, owned by Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo, with two
or three thousand head of catde, about 800 horses, and
five or six thousand sheep ; the present town of San
Leandro is on a part of the rancho. Across San Lo-
renzo creek was the Rancho San Lorenzo Bajo, owned
by Francisco Soto, with one to two thousand cattle, and
three to four hundred horses ; to the east of him was
the San Lorenzo upper ranch, owned by Don Guill-
ermo Castro, with five or six thousand cattle and two
or three thousand horses.
To the east of this was the rancho owned by Don
Jose Maria Amador and Don Dolores Pacheco resid-
ing at the Pueblo of San Jose, with 6000 head of cattle
and one to two thousand horses. To the east of them
vD-
STOCKRAISERS OX THE GUADALUPE.
was the rancho ot Robert Livermore, an Englishman,
with two or three thousand cattle and one or two thous-
and horses.
To the south of Francisco Soto was the Mission of
San Jose, with 8000 head of cattle, and about 3000
horses, and eight to ten thousand sheep, and fifteen to
eighteen hundred Christianized Indians, all under the
charge of Don Jose Jesus Vallejo, the administrator of
the Mission.
In the valley of San Jose, extending from what is
called Warm Springs, as far as thirty miles to the south
of the town of San Jose, and to the river Guadalupe
on the west, there were numerous stock-raisers, having
extensive ranchos, with an aggregate of not less than
100,000 head of cattle, and probably 20,000 horses, and
large flocks of sheep. At the rancho of Ygnacio Al-
viso, where the town of Alviso is located, there were
three or four thousand head of cattle and about 1500
horses.
x-\t the Mission of Santa Clara, to the west of the
river Guadalupe, there were probably 1000 to 1500 cat-
tle and horses. This Mission, anterior to 1834," was con-
sidered one of the richest in the department, but dur-
ing the revolutions and civil wars in the country the
military power in the vicinity of the Mission appropri-
ated nearly all the horses and cattle belonging to it, and
it therefore became impoverished.
To the northwest of Santa Clara was the Rancho
Las Pulgas, (the Fleas), owned by the heirs of Gov-
THE SOTOYOME GRANT AT HEALDSBURG. 2)3
ernor Arguello, with about 4000 head of cattle and 2000
horses. The towns of Belmont, Redwood City and
Menlo Park are situated here.
To the northwest of the Las Pulgas was the Buri
Buri rancho, with about 8000 head of cattle and 1000
horses, owned by Don Jose Sanchez.
Captain Henry D. Fitch, a native of New Hamp-
shire, who came to the country in 1833 or '34, com-
manded vessels trading to Callao and other points on
the coast, and afterwards settled at San Diego, where
he married a sister of General Vallejo's wife, and en-
gaged in merchandising. He was an honorable man,
and very hospitable. Afterward, he obtained a grant of
land, called Sotoyome (an Indian name) in Sonoma
county, from Governor Micheltorena. He stocked it
with several thousand cattle and horses. Fitch Moun-
tain, at Healdsburg, was named after him. He died
in 1848.
At San Diego, also, was Don Juan Bandini, a na-
tive of Peru, who married one of the Estudillo family.
He was a man of decided ability and of fine character.
He owned several ranches in San Diego and Los An-
geles counties.
Don Abel Stearns married a daughter of Bandini,
Dona Arcadia, who, after Stearns' death, married Col-
onel Baker, after whom Bakersfield was named. She
was very beautiful. Her husband is one of the wealth-
iest residents of the State.
At San Diego was also Don Santiago Arguello, a
brother of Governor Arguello. He was a prominent
J
34 FARMS AROUND THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO.
man, and prefect under Governor Alvarado, in Los An-
geles, and he held other offices.
To the north of the bay of San Francisco, wild In-
dians, from the Clear Lake country, assisted in farm
work, such as making soap, luatanza work, plowing
lands for wheat, barley, beans, corn and small veget-
ables, onions, peas, cabbages, calabazas, lantejas and
melons.
Civilized Indians from the Missions were scattered
about the country, and many were to be found on the
different ranchos. They were of peaceable disposition,
were employed as vaqueros, and helped the rancheros
at the planting season and at harvest time.
I have often seen the Clear Lake Indians at their
temascales, or steaming places. A large cavity was made
in the ground, six or eight feet deep, somewhat like
a cellar, and tightly covered over with brush, with a
little aperture for the smoke to pass out. In this cav-
ity they made a very hot fire, and a number of them,
men and women, nearly bare of clothing, went in and
subjected themselves to the heating process, taking a
hot air bath, keeping up a monotonous singing all the
time.
They remained there from half an hour to an hour,
or until entirely heated through, so that the perspira-
tion ran off them in streams. In that condition they
rushed out, plunged into a pool in the creek near by,
cooled off and washed, after which they retired to their
habitations. I frequently witnessed this steaming of
the Indians at the rancho of Mrs. Carillo, at Santa
INDIANS STEAMING THEMSELVES, 35
Rosa, and wondered that they were not instantly killed
by the sudden transition from heat to cold ; but never
knew any of them to be injured by the practice. These
performances always took place in the night.
CHAPTER VII.
How the Missions were supported — Cattle Slaughtered mainly for their Hides and
Tallow — The Portions Preserved for Food — Milch Cows in no Demand —
The use of Horses — The Gangs into which they were Divided, and their
Habits while running at large — Wild Plorses in San Joaquin Valley — Sport
had by the Young Men in their Capture with the Lasso.
The Missions exacted from the cattle owners a
contribution known as diezino, for the support and ben-
efit of the clergy and for the expense of the Missions
— one-tenth of the increase of the cattle. The tax was
not imposed by the general government, but was solely
an ecclesiastical matter decreed by the Pope of Rome
or a law of the church, diligently collected by the clergy
of the different Missions, and religiously contributed by
the rancheros. The collection was continued as late as
1851 or 1852.
The cattle were slaughtered in the summer season ;
the killing commenced about the first of July and con-
tinued until the first of October, for the hides and tal-
low ; about 200 pounds of the best part of the bullock
was preserved, by drying, for future consumption, the
balance of the animal being left to go to waste ; it was
consumed by the buzzards and wild beasts.
The tallow was tried in large pots brought by the
American whale ships — such as are used to try out
their blubber, and was then run into bags made of hides,
each containing twenty to forty arrobas. An arroba
is twenty-five pounds.
NO MILK OBTAINABLE ON THE RANCHOS. 37
In securing the tallow, the manteca, or fat lying
nearest the hide of the bullock, was taken off carefully,
and tried out apart from the interior fat, or sebo. The
latter constituted the tallow for shipment ; about sev-
enty-five to one hundred pounds being obtained from
each creature. The former, of which forty to fifty
pounds were obtained, was more carefully and nicely
prepared, and was saved for domestic use ; in cooking
being preferred to hog's lard. Sometimes the two were
mixed, the latter not being used by itself. Whenever
there was more of the manteca than was needed for the
family, the Russians were eager purchasers for ship-
ment and for their own use. It was sold for $2 perar-
roba, and the sebo at $1.50 per arroba.
The manteca required much attention in trying it
out. Being of a more delicate nature than the other
fat and more liable to burn, it was constantly watched.
When the fat of either kind was sufficiently melted and
cooked it was allowed to partly cool, and while still
liquid was transferred to hide bags, which were pre-
pared to receive it by fastening at four points on the
edge of four upright stakes set in the ground, the
mouth of the bag being thus held open. The hides
were staked out and dried, and were then ready for
the market.
At the ranchos very little use was made of milch
cows for milk, butter or cheese. I have frequently
drank my tea or coffee, without milk, on a ranch con-
taining from 3600 to 8000 head of cattle. But in the
spring of the year, when the grass was green, the wives
38 HORSES BROKEN FOR THE SADDLE ONLY.
of the rancheros made from the milk asaderas, a fresh
cheese, in small flat cakes, which had to be eaten the
day it was made.
The horns of the animals were considered of no
value by the cattle owners, and were generally secured
for nothing by the trading vessels on the coast, and
shipped to Boston.
The horses were never stabled. They were broken
for the saddle only, and were almost wholly for herding
cattle. They were divided up into caponeras, or small
bodies of about twenty-five each, each caponera having
a bell mare, which was always a yegtia pinta (calico
mare), having a beautiful variety of color, whom they
followed; and so accustomed were they to their leaders
that the different little bands never mixed; and if by
chance one got into the wrong company, he would
presently go back to where he belonged.
On a rancho with 8000 head of cattle there would be,
say, twelve caponeras. One or two of these divisions,
containing the best horses, were specially for the owner
of the rancho, and never used for ordinary work, but
merely by the owner for his own riding purposes.
A large number of horses were needed on each
rancho for herding stock, as they were used up very
fast. They were numerous and cheap, and the owners
placed no restraint upon the vaqueros, who rode with-
out a particle of regard for the horses, till they soon
became unfit for further use in this way. The va-
CAPTURING WILD HORSES. 39
queros were continually breaking in young colts three
years old and upwards, to replace those already
beyond service.
There were large bands of wild horses in the Val-
ley of the San Joaquin, which at that time was entirely
unsettled. At times, a few mares, and perhaps a young
stallion, would stray away from a rancho and get out of
reach, until in the course of time there were collected
in that valley immense herds, thousands and tens of
thousands of horses, entirely wild and untamed, living
and breeding by themselves, finding there plenty of
o-ood feed to sustain them.
Frequendy during the summer time, young men,
the sons of rancheros, would go in companies of eight
or ten or twelve to the valley on their best and fleetest
steeds, to capture a number of these wild horses and
bring them to the ranchos. On reaching the place
where a large band was collected, they prepared for the
sport in this way : The saddles being removed, the
horses were ridden bare-back, a piece of reata being
tied loosely around the body of each horse just behind
the fore legs, and the rider, having no saddle or stirrups,
slipped his knees under the rope, one end of the lasso
being tied to the rope also. Thus prepared, they rode
toward the wild horses, who, on seeing them approach,
would take alarm and rush off at great speed, the riders
following. Sometimes the chase lasted for miles before
they came up with the horses. On getting near enough
each horseman selected his victim, pursued him, and
40 CAPTURING WILD HORSES.
at the right moment cast the lasso, which never failed
to encircle the neck of the horse ; then bringing his
own horse to a stand, there was a wild struggle, the
rider holding his horse firm, and the captured horse
pulling and straining on the rope until he became so
choked and exhausted that he was compelled to suc-
cumb.
It was very hazardous sport, and required the
greatest nerve and the best horsemanship. If a rider
found himself in the midst of a band of wild horses
there was danger that he and his horse might be over-
ridden and trampled to death. This sometimes occurred.
When fifty or sixty of the wild horses were thus
captured, they were taken to the ranchos, corralled at
night and herded in the daytime, until they became
sufficiently subdued to be introduced among the horses
of the ranch.
This was great diversion for the young men, and
at the same time it added to their stock the best ani-
mals of the wild herds. It is presumed there were as
many as fifteen or twenty thousand of wild horses in
different bands, in the San Joaquin valley.
CHAPTER VIII.
The Cattle tamed by frequent Rodoes— Manner of Collecting the Cattle together
— Neighboring Rancheros attend the Rodeos to look after their own Brands
—The Pursuit of Break-away cattle— The Novel Method of Reducing them
to Obedience— A Rodeo Described — Beef the Chief Food of Californians,
which accounts for their Health and Longevity.
Although the cattle belonging to the various
ranchos were wild, yet they were under training to
some extent, and were kept in subjection by constant
rodeos. At stated times, say, two or three times a
week at first, the cattle on a particular ranch were driven
in by the vaqueros, from all parts thereof, to a spot
known as the rodeo ground, and kept there for a few
hours, when they were allowed to disperse. Shortly
they were collected again, once a week perhaps, and
then less seldom, until after considerable training, being
always driven to the same place, they came to know it.
Then, whenever the herd was wanted, all that was ne-
cessary for the vaqueros to do was, say twenty-five
or thirty of them, to ride out into the hills and valleys
and call the cattle, shouting and screaming to them,
when the animals would immediately run to the accus-
tomed spot ; presently the whole vast herd belonging to
the ranch finding their way there.
At times, cattle strayed from one ranch to another
and got into the wrong herd. Whenever a rodeo was
to be held, the neighbors of the ranchero were given
notice and attended at the time and place designated.
42 SPORTS OF THE VAQUEROS.
If any of these cattle were found in the band, they
were picked out, separated, and driven back to the
rancho where they belonged. As the cattle were all
branded, and each rancho had ear-marks, this was not
difficult. ■
Sometimes when cattle were being herded in a
rodeo, an obstinate or unruly animal, cow, steer or bull
— commonly a bull — watching an opportunity, suddenly
darted from the herd and ran away at full speed. The
vaquero, being always on the alert and knowing his
duty well, immediately dashed out after the animal.
Being on a fleet horse he presently came up with the
runaway, and by a dexterous movement, leaning over
his horse, seized the creature by the tail, when, urging
the steed to an extra effort, the horse dashed forward,
giving a sudden jerk, and the tail being let go by the
vaquero at the right moment, the animal was rolled
over and over on the ground. When it regained its
legs it was completely subdued, tamely submitted to be
driven back to the herd and was not inclined to repeat
the experiment. '
The capture was called colliar. It was highly en-
joyed by the vaquero, and was a feat requiring no little
skill, strength, nerve and horsemanship on his part.
The ranchero himself when out riding with his friends,
for their amusement and his own, would sometimes
separate an animal from the herd, run him off to one
side, gallop alongside, catch him by the tail and skill-
fully turn him over and over, creating a good deal of
GATHERING CATTLE AT RODEOS. 43
merriment. At times the sagacious animal, knowing
what was coming, would draw his tail down under his
body. This manoeuvre did not prevent its being seized,
nevertheless.
The rodeo ground was of circular shape ; the va-
queros always left the cattle together in that form.
When a rodeo took place, six or eight cabestros, or tame
cattle, were brought together in a stand, or parada,
about one hundred yards or more from the rodeo, in
charge of a vaquero. When the cattle were to be se-
lected from the rodeo, the vaqueros rode quietly in
among them, in pairs, and two of them, seeing one they
wanted to remove, gently approached the animal, one
on each side, and, without making any disturbance,
edged him along to ,one side of the rodeo ground op-
posite to where \.\\q parada stood. When they got just
to the edge, they gave him a sudden start, by shouting
^' fiord' (now), and off he went at full speed, followed
by them. Seeing the paj^ada a little distance off, the
wild steer or cow generally made for that, or, if he or
she turned to one side, was guided by the vaqueros,
and, on reaching it, stopped with the tame cattle, or was
compelled to if not so inclined. The cattle when
taken first in this way to the parada, finding them-
selves with a strange set and few in number were
uneasy ; but the vaqueros continuing to bring in others,
the numbers increasing rapidly, the new comers would
feel more at home, and generally remained quiet. If
44 GREETINGS AT RODEOS.
one bolted from theparada, a vaquero pursued him and
performed the ar^adores, were often engaged at the same time
in the rodeo ground, taking out cattle to be removed
and conducting them to different paradas.
When the owners of adjoining ranchos came to the
rodeo ground to select their cattle, they brought their
own cabesti'os, and their own vaqueros, who went in and
picked out the cattle belonging to their special ranchos,
and took them to their own paradas. Two or three
hundred cattle belonging to a neighboring ranch would
be taken from a rodeo at a time.
The work of separating the cattle, while a necessity,
was really more of an amusement than a labor, and I
have frequently participated in it for the sport. On
such occasions many persons from the different ranchos
came, as at a cattle fair in the country in our day, to
exchange greetings and talk over affairs. Sometimes
they would amuse themselves by joining in the work
with the vaqueros, in pairs, a point being not to disturb
or friofhten the whole mass of cattle on the rodeo
ground.
The cabestros had holes in their horns, with a
small spike inserted, by which an unruly beast could be
ARABIAN STOCK. 45
attached to one or two other cattle, so to be taken from
one place to another, when necessary.
When the horses became disabled, or too poor for
use, they were generally given away to the poorer
people of the country, or to Indians who could make
them useful.
The California horses were originally from Ara-
bian stock, imported from Spain by the Padres at the time
of the first establishment of the Missions. They had
multiplied here extensively. At first it was very fine
stock, but it became degenerated by breeding in, gen-
eration after generation, for over a hundred years. No
attention was given by the rancheros to the production
of good stock, either cattle or horses.
All orejanos (calves without ear-mark or brand)
not following the cow, were considered as belonging to
the rancho on which they were found.
The marking season always commenced about the
first of February in the southern counties, before the
hot weather came on, and ended about the middle ot
May, when both horses and cattle were branded, ear-
marked and castrated. Rodeos were held at marking
and slaughtering times, and at other periods often
enough to keep the animals subdued, and accustomed
to the premises of the owner.
At the killing season, cattle were driven from the
rodeo ground to a particular spot on the rancho, near a
46 THE CATTLE-SLAUGflTERING INDUSTRY.
brook and forest. It was usual to slaughter from fifty
to one hundred at a time, generally steers three years
old and upward ; the cows being kept for breeding pur-
poses. The fattest would be selected for slaughter,
and about two days would be occupied in killing fifty
cattle, trying out the tallow, stretching the hides and
curing the small portion of meat that was preserved-
The occasion was called the matanza.
The mode of killing cattle was thus : About fifty
were driven into a corral near the matanza ground ; a
vaquero then went in on horseback and lassoed a crea-
ture by the horns, the end of the reata being already
fastened to the pommel of the saddle, with as much
thrown out as was necessary, only a portion being used
in a small space like the corral, the remainder being
held in the hand in a coil, to be let out or drawn in, as
circumstances should require. The animal was brought
out of the corral, and, another vaquero coming up, the
animal when it reached the spot where it was wanted
was lassoed by one or both hind legs, and at that mo-
ment the horse, by a sudden movement, jerked the ani-
mal to one side or the other, and it was thrown instantly
to the ground. The man who had him by the head then
backed his horse, or the horse, understanding the busi-
ness perfectly, backed himself, until the whole reata was
straightened out ; and the horse of the vaquero who
had the creature by the hind legs did the same, the lat-
THE VAQUEROS SKILLFUL BUTCHERS. 47
ter vaquero meanwhile fastening his reata more se-
curely to the saddle, and the two lines were drawn taut.
The man at the tail end, then dismounting, tied the
fore legs of the animal together with an extra piece of
rope, and the hind legs also, drawing all the feet to-
gether in a bunch and tying them. During this oper-
ation the man and horse at the head stood firm, and
the horse without the rider did the same, watching ev-
ery movement, his ears moving back and forth ; if
there was any slacking of the reata from the motions of
the animal, he backed a little further, without any di-
rection from the vaquero, so intelligent and well-trained
was the faithful beast. After the steer was thus tied,
and powerless to rise, the reatas were taken from him
entirely, and the man on foot stuck a knife in his neck.
When he was dead, the two took off the skin in a short
time, not over half an hour, so expert were they at the
business. At other times, not during the killing sea-
son, if a beef was required for family use, two vaqueros
were detailed by the ranchero to go out and bring in a
fat creature. They selected the best they could find
from the cattle in the field, lassoed him and brought
him in to the side or rear of the house, about loo feet
distant, and convenient to the kitchen, where the steer
was lassoed by the hind legs, thrown over and killed,
as above. The skin was laid back on the ground as it
was taken off, and the creature was cut up on the skin.
At this time nearly the whole of the meat was used, not
48 EXCELLENT BEEF.
merely the choice parts, as at the matanza. In cutting'
up the animal they first took off in a layer i\\(i fresada
(literally, blanket), that is, the thick portion covering
the ribs, which, though tough, was very sweet and pal-
atable ; and as the Californians, both men and women,
old and young, were blessed with remarkably sound
teeth, the toughness was no impediment to its being
eaten. I never knew an instance of a person of either
sex or any age among the Californians suffering from
toothache or decay of teeth, but all preserved their
teeth in' good condition to extreme old age ; at the same
time, they did not take any special care of them. I can
account for the excellent preservation of the teeth only
upon the ground of an extremely simple mode of liv-
ing and their temperate habits.
This mode of slaughter of cattle — lying flat upon
the ground — preserved a great deal more of the blood
in the meat than the method in use by Americans.
The meat was therefore sweeter and more nutritious
than if the blood had been drained as much as possible,
as is the custom with us ; though the slaughtering in this
way seemed somewhat repugnant to a stranger, at first.
I have heard Americans express this feeling, and have
experienced it myself, but we soon became accustomed
to it, and were convinced that the mode of the Califor-
nians was superior to ours. Capt. Richardson said to
me that he could account for the fine appearance, the
health and longevity of the Californians only from the fact
that their chief article of food was beef; and the beef
A LADV OVER A CENTURY IN YEARS. 49
being dressed in the way I have described was more
nutritious and sustaining than ours.
During a business visit to Los xAngeles some years
since, I frequently met Don Dolores Sepulveda, one of
the oftspring of a prominent family of that name in
that section of California. Senor Sepulveda stated to
me one day, speaking of the longevity of some of his
countrywomen, that there were living in Los Angeles
county thirty native California women with ages
ranging from eighty to over one hundred years.
They were well preserved mentally and physically. In
Monterey, the old capital under the Mexican regime,
there are still living a number of women of Castilian
extraction, who are ninety years old and upward.
Seiiora Doiia Guadalupe Briones de Miramontes lived
formerly at the Presidio of San Francisco, near " Polin,"
the name of a spring of water celebrated for certain
virtues. She is now a resident of Spanishtown, in San
Mateo county, and a very old lady, being over a century
in years. I have been informed that she is hale and
strong, and is able to insert a thread through the small
eye of a needle, preparatory to her habit of daily sew-
ing with her hand. It was this woman who cured
me of a malady and saved me from death years since.
I was afflicted with the neuralgia in the head from my
youth, and I had been on the point of death, but Doiia
Guadalupe's simple remedy relieved me of suffering
probably to the end of my time.
4
CHAPTER IX.
Horse Breeding — Instinct of Attachment between the Equine Sexes — Their Un-
easiness at Separation — Grain and Bean Threshing by Mares — A Primitive
Method.
In 1840 the Mission of San Jose ordered a
slaughter of about 2000 bulls, simply for the hides, not
taking any meat from them. The vaqueros rode into
the fields, and lassoed and killed them on the spot,
taking off the hides and little tallow and leaving the
carcasses there untouched. The rule among the old
rancheros here was to preserve one bull for every twenty-
five cows, but in the instance above mentioned they
had carelessly allowed a large number to grow up with-
out castration. The Missions did not give so much
attention to these matters as the regular ranchmen.
The vaqueros of the Missions were always Indians,
who were more careless in the management of the
stock.
The breeding mares were divided up into man-
adasy or little bodies of twenty-five, with a stallion for
each, and so accustomed were they to follow their stall-
ion that each band kept distinct and never mixed with
other nianadas. The stallions were equally faithful to
those under their charge, and never went off to other
bands. It was the custom of a stallion, on the approach
of a stranofe horse, or number of horses, to circle round
his mares keeping them well together, and driving the
HERDINC; MARES IN BANDS. 5 1
visitors away, so jealous were they of intruders. I have
never known them to mix in any way, but to keep their
companies distinct. The inanadas were formed at
first by the vaqueros herding the band during- the
day, and at night securing them in a corral. They con-
tinued this day after day until the animals had become
so accustomed to the arrangement that there was no
danger of their separating. They were then left to go
free, and continued together month after month and year
after year. A stallion when taken away from his inan-
adas and confined in a corral would squeal and neigh
and manifest the greatest uneasiness and anxiety until
restored to his company. Except for this training to
form them into inanadas, these mares were entirely wild
and unbroken. They were never used for riding, and
only occasionally for work at the harvest season. They
were kept for breeding purposes, and it was not consid-
ered a proper or becoming thing for a lady or gentle-
man to ride a mare ; it would, in fact, have been regarded
as humiliating.
The tails and manes of the mares of the manadas
were closely cut. The hair was utilized for ropes, made
by the vaqueros by twisting and braiding together.
Those made from the tails were used by the vaqueros
for reins and halters in breaking in young colts, and
those made from the manes, being of finer quality, were
used by the rancheros themselves. The hair being of
different colors and skillfully worked together, these
hair ropes were very pretty and ornamental, as well as
52 THRESHING GRAIN BY TREADING PROCESS.
very strong. I once asked an old ranchero, Don Do-
mingo Peralta, why the manes and tails of the stallions
attached to the manadas were not cut also. He replied,
''Las yegtias los aboj'recen " — (the mares would take
a dislike to them, would lose their respect and affec-
tion for them, and would not recognize them as their
stallions).
When the grain was cut at harvesting, the mares
were employed in threshing it. I have seen at the
rancho of San Leandro four manadas, or lOO mares, en-
gaged in threshing barley. While they were at work
during the day the stallions were separated from them
and kept in different corrals. At the end of the day,
when the work was done, they were released ; the
mares being set free also, the stallions would go to work
and separate the mares, each getting his own band to-
gether, and the mares, recognizing their own stallion,
would flock round him.
The threshing was accomplished in a very primi-
tive way : A circular piece of ground, known as hera,
containing, say. an acre and a half, was inclosed by a
fence, smooth on the inside. The ground was prepared
by putting water on it, levelling and pounding it until
it became firm and hard. A large quantity of grain was
then thrown into this circular space, and seventy-five to
one hundred mares were turned in to the place', with
two or three vaqueros mounted on powerful horses,
with whips in their hands, who drove the mares round
and round the circle, shouting "Yeguas! Yeguas !
Yeguas ! " (Pronounced jay'-goo-ah.)
WHEAT RAISED AT THE MISSIONS. 53
When the mares became dizzy from circling round
in this way, they were turned and driven in the opposite
direction. This was continued actively until the grain
was well threshed out. The grain was winnowed in
an equally primitive manner, the process requiring a day
when a good breeze was blowing. The threshed grain
was pushed well to one side of the inclosure by the har-
vesters, and a good space cleaned off. Then, with large
wooden shovels, they took it up and threw it as high
as possible against the wind, which blew the chaff and
straw away, while the heavier grain fell down on the
clean ground which had been prepared for it. In this
way they got it out quite clean, also nice and whole,
not broken, as it is more or less in passing through a
threshing machine.
The Missions of San Jose and Santa Clara would
use two or three hundred mares in a hera of four or
five acres in extent. The Missions commonly raised,
each, from six to eiofht hundred acres of wheat for their
own use. The mares were also used for the threshing
of beans by the same process.
CHAPTER X.
How Taxes were Imposed for the Support of the Department — Governor Alvar-
ado's Order for the Arrest of Americans — The Arrests that were made —
Yerba Buena placed under Martial Law by General Vallejo — Disposition of
the Arrested Parties — News of the Arrests sent by Consul Larkin to Wash-
ington — Action of the United States Government — The Principal Rancheros
Anticipate the Annexation of California to the United States— The Ques-
tion only one of Time — Their Reasons for not Earnestly Opposing the
Measure,
The government of the department of CaHfornia
imposed no tax upon the people of the country, and was
mainly supported by revenue duties imposed on cargoes
of foreign vessels sold in the country, which amounted
to eighty to one hundred per centum of the invoice
prices. This was considered very exorbitant, and offered
a temptation to foreign traders to smuggle, which was
largely availed of. Occasionally the government of the
department would draw on the home government to as-
sist in its financial matters.
In April, 1840, an event transpired which occa-
sioned considerable excitement on this coast. An
order was issued by Governor Alvarado, through the
prefect, Don Jose Ramon Estrada, for the arrest of
all the resident Americans in the department, with
some exceptions. General Manuel Castro, who is
still living at Monterey, has recently informed me that
this movement originated with Governor Alvarado
and General Jose Castro ; that they had been in-
VERBA BUENA UNDER MARTIAL LAW. 55
formed that the Americans were preparing to rise
against the government of the department, take pos-
sesion of it, assassinate them, and assume control of
the department affairs in behalf of the United States;
that Alvarado and Castro becoming alarmed for their
personal safety, as well as that of the department, in
order to prevent this outbreak, issued the order above
mentioned. Don Manuel, in giving me this informa-
tion, said, with a smile, he did not think the Americans
had any such design. He thought Alvarado and Gen-
eral Jose Castro were unduly alarmed. This is Don
Manuel Castro's version of the matter. My own opin-
ion is that Governor Alvarado had been secretly in-
structed by the home government to be constantly on
the alert for any movements or designs of the Ameri-
cans for getting possession of the country, and becoming
alarmed himself, ordered the arrest.
Governor Alvarado issued his orders through the
prefect to the different sub-prefects and alcaldes of the
department to arrest all Americans within their several
districts. This was accomplished, the arrests being
made by the military, under the instructions of the civil
officers. About seventy persons were thus arrested,
nearly all Americans ; a few of other nationalities were
also taken, under the mistaken impression that they
were Americans. While these arrests were being made
General Vallejo, with his staff and about seventy sol-
diers, came from Sonoma to Yerba Buena and placed
the town under martial orders for a few days, when he
56 CAPTIVES SENT TO MONTEREY.
left with his forces for Monterey. Yerba Buena con-
tained at that time about twenty-five inhabitants, men,
women and children all t.old. The captives were sent to
Monterey, some by water and some by land, under
military guard, as soon as possible after the arrest.
They were put into the government house under a mil-
itary guard, and were kept there until all were collected,
being well treated. They were then transported to San
Bias in the Mexican bark " Joven Guipuzcoana," cap-
tain Joseph Snooks, an Englishman who had sworn al-
legiance to the Mexican government. They were ac-
companied by General Jose Castro, who was in charge
of them. The owner of the vessel was Don Jose An-
tonio Aguirre, a native of Spain, an old merchant of
this coast, living at Santa Barbara. Prominent among
the prisoners was a pioneer to the coast from Kentucky,
by the name of Isaac Graham, who lived at Santa Cruz.
He was an old hunter and trapper, and at the time of
his arrest was engaged in stock-raising and getting out
lumber, having a water-mill there, and owned the Ran-
cho Cyante.
The news of the arrest was communicated to
Washington as speedily as possible by Thomas O. Lar-
kin. United States consul at Monterey, and orders were
sent out through the United States Minister at Mexico,
to Commodore Claxton, in command of the Pacific
squadron, to look into the matter, and he dispatched the
United States sloop of war " St, Louis," captain For-
est, to Monterey. She arrived there shortly after the
THE MEXICAN OFFICIALS DISTRUSTFUL. 57
departure of the " Joven Guipuzcoana" with the prison-
ers. In fact the two vessels passed each other shortly
before the " St. Louis" arrived, the captain, of course,
not being aware that the other vessel contained the
prisoners. She remained there a short time and went
southward, not visiting the bay of San F'rancisco at that
time. She again visited the upper coast in the sum-
mer of 1 84 1, coming direct to the bay of San Fran-
cisco, and proceeding thence to Monterey.
This movement was one of the manifestations of
the old feeling of jealousy which existed on the part of
the Mexican government towards the government of
the United States. There had for some time existed a
suspicion on the part of the Mexican officials of Cali-
fornia against the Americans in the department, which
was, doubtless, natural enough, as they desired to re-
tain their positions with all the honors and benefits per-
taining thereto. A fear prevailed that the Americans
in the department of California, although few in num-
ber, might band together and conspire against the legit-
imate government, overpower and take possession of it.
Consequently, in order to be on the safe side and avert
this danger, they thought it best to arrest these Amer-
icans and get them out of the department.
This feeling of distrust or partial hostility on the
part of the officials was well understood among the
Americans in the department, who, however, I am con-
vinced, had no desig-n whatever agfainst the o-overn-
ment, at least no such idea was ever discussed or sug-
5b THE RANCHEROS FRIENDLY TO AMERICANS,
sugg^ested to my knowledge, although for a long time it
had been the common talk among the Americans when
among themselves or in company with the rancheros
that at some future time the United States would hold
possession of California, and that our government
would never permit any other nation to be the possessors
of this territory. But the idea of the few Americans
then in California upsetting the government of that de-
partment existed only in the minds of the officials,
strengthened, doubtless, by advices from the home gov-
ernment of Mexico to be constantly on the alert and
avert anything of the kind, if threatened. While the
officials were thus jealous and inimical, on the other hand,
the rancheros, the owners of the large estates and the
immense herds of cattle and horses, of whom I have
spoken, were exceedingly friendly to the Americans and
the United States government. They often expressed
to me and to other Americans in the department the
hope that at some time the stars and stripes would float
over California, and she become a part of the United
States. . In their intercourse with the American traders
and others who had visited the coast they could not fail
to perceive the American superiority in intelligence,
education and business ability. They naturally felt a
respect for the government of the country to which such
men belonged, and a desire that they might also share
in these advantages for themselves and their children ;
that their children might be better educated, their agri-
cultural methods improved, their lands better cultivated
CONSTANT REVOLUTIONS NOT FAVORED. 59
and enhanced in value, their horses and cattle made
more valuable by improving the stock, and other desir-
able things secured, all of which they were sufficiently
intelligent to appreciate and desire for themselves, and
so, without reserve, they frankly expressed their liking
for the Americans and their wish to be united with
them.
These Californians frequently expressed to me
their dislike of the constant revolutions to which the
Mexican people were addicted, and said they would feel
better protected under the American government and
more secure in life and property, than under the Mexi-
can government. In these revolutions their sons were
often wrested from them and forced into the army, in
the service of the party then dominant and nearest at
hand. They were taken from fourteen years old and
upwards, much to the dread and distress of the parents,
though it may be mentioned that the risks of the ser-
vice were not very great, since it was a rare thing for
anybody to be killed in these revolutions. The
women of California, without exception, were wholly
loyal to their own government, and hated the idea of
any change ; although they respected the Americans,
treated them with great cordiality and politeness, and
entertained them hospitably at their homes, they would
not countenance the sug^aestion that the United States
or any other foreign power should assume control
of the countrv.
CHAPTER XI.
Arrest and Release of Nathan Spear— The Author is one of the Arrested— ^Yhile a
Prisoner attends an Entertainment — An Attractive Hostess — Further action
of the Government of the United States concerning the Arrests — A General
Delivery of Prisoners — An Explanation and Disclaimer — The Latter
probably Insincere.
Nathan Spear was arrested with the other Ameri-
cans, and taken to Monterey by a guard of soldiers,
but was soon released by the governor, who had been
a clerk for Spear in former years at Monterey and had
a high esteem for him. The governor, therefore, made
an exception in his behalf. At that time I was in the
employ of Spear, the principal manager of his commer-
cial house at Yerba Buena. I was also arrested and
taken to the headquarters of the sub-prefect, Don Fran-
cisco Guerrero, at the Mission Dolores, and was there
a prisoner for twenty-four hours. During my incarcer-
ation I was very kindly treated by the sub-prefect and
his amiable wife, Doiia Josefa, daughter of Don Fran-
cisco de Haro, who was alcalde at that time. In the
evening I was entertained by this lady with a beautiful
little dancing party at her house, at which were present
six or eight lovely young ladies and about as many
young California gentlemen.
We had a delightful time. On that occasion, Doiia
Josefa, who had been married only a year, and who was
a graceful woman, with full, brilliant black eyes, wore
her hair unconfined, flowine at full length, rich and lux-
FASCINATIONS OF YOUTH AND BEAUTY. 6 1
uriant, reaching nearly to her feet ; as she moved in
the figures of the dance she presented a fascinating
picture of youth and beauty that I could not but ad-
mire. The dancing continued till a late hour, and the
affair was so very enjoyable that I hardly realized that
I was a prisoner of State. The sub-prefect assumed
the responsibility of releasing me in the morning, and
remarked at the time that he would receive an order
to that effect from the seat of government, procured
by Spear. This subsequently proved to be correct,
and I had no further trouble.
There were a few exceptions to this general arrest
of Americans, among them Don /\bel Stearns at Los
Angeles, he being a very early pioneer to this country,
a prominent and wealthy merchant at that time, and
always very highly respected by the officials. He had
been in the country so long that he was rather consid-
ered as belonging to it, though he was a Bostonian
originally. Another was Don Juan B. Cooper at Mon-
terey, who had also been long in the country, having
arrived here in 1823 in the American schooner " Thad-
deus." He had been a shipmaster, and at the time of
the arrest was engaged in the business of stock-raising.
He was married to a sister of General Vallejo, was in-
timate with the officials and respected by them.
There were also a few other old residents, who had
married into California families, who were excepted ;
among them William G. Dana, Francis Branch, Daniel
Hill, Lewis T. Burton and Isaac Sparks, all of Santa
Barbara. None of the agents, supercargoes or cap-
62 TRANSPORTED TO TEPIC.
tains of vessels on the coast at the time of this arrest
were molested ; only those who resided here contin-
uously.
When the news of this arrest was communicated
to the State Department at Washington by the United
States consul at Monterey, Thomas O. Larkin, instruc-
tions were sent to the United States Minister at the
City of Mexico, and through his intercession with the
Mexican government these prisoners were released
in a month or two after their arrival at San Bias,
whence they had been transported to Tepic. While
they were at the latter place orders came from the
Mexican government for the release of the prisoners,
and for the imprisonment of General Castro. The Mexi-
can government disclaimed having authorized the arrest
of these people, and its prompt action in ordering their
release, and causing Castro to be imprisoned, was prob-
ably for the purpose of giving greater effect to this dis-
claimer and making everything appear as favorable as
possible to the American government. At the same
time I have no doubt the Mexican government was
really at the bottom of the whole movement, directly
or indirectly, but after the event had transpired, thought
best, for prudential reasons, to discountenance it, not de-
siring to provoke any difficulty with the United States.
To further strengthen the position of the Mexican
government in this phase of the matter, it promised
the United States Minister that these people should be
indemnified for the trouble and inconvenience to which
they had been subjected by this movement.
CHAPTER XII.
Population of the Department in i838-'39, and its Composition — A Prominent
Frenchman Arrives — His Nervous Impatience causes him to take an Im-
promptu Cold Bath — His Mission Suspected of being one of Observation
for the French Government — He makes a Round of Visits — Captain Sutter
is Pleased with him — Mutual Respect — His Opinion of the Country and its
Destiny.
The population of the department of CaHfornia
about 1838-39 was probably from ten to twelve thou-
sand, exclusive of Indians, who numbered about twenty
thousand. Christianized,
In 1840, Mofras, a Frenchman, visited the coast
in a French frigate (name forgotten), and landed at Yerba
Buena. He was a French official, a kind of traveling-
ambassador to observe the different countries of the
world. I think he came here from the coast of Peru
and Chili. There were but few houses here at the
time, and the most prominent was the residence and
commercial establishment of Nathan Spear on the
spot which is now the north-west corner of Clay and
Montgomery streets. He was invited by Spear to be-
come his guest. He was there several months, making
that his headquarters, traveling about the bay and to
different points in the interior. As I was in Spear's
employ I saw a good deal of Mofras, became quite
well acquainted with him, and was much pleased with
him, as were all those with whom he came in contact.
He was an educated gentleman, master of several Ian-
64 MOFRAS NEARLY DROWNS.
guages besides his own, among them EngHsh, Spanish,
and German, He was a close observer of everything,
and, Hke most Frenchmen, excited in his conversation
and manner. In my business trips about the bay in
the schooner " Isabel," he frequently accompanied me.
On one occasion, in coming up to the town in the
schooner from Read's ranch, on the opposite side of
the bay, the captain of the vessel went a little too near
the flat off North Beach, and the schooner grounded.
We were compelled to lie there for an hour or two,
waiting for the tide to float us off Monsieur Mofras
soon became impatient and excited, and finally he got
so restless and uneasy that he could no longer restrain
himself. In spite of my persuasions and remonstrances
he leaped overboard, with his clothes on, waded and
swam ashore, and proceeded dripping wet to the house.
On his arrival there. Spear was astonished to see him
in that plight, and at first thought the schooner had
been wrecked. I used to joke with him afterwards
about his jumping overboad, and he confessed to me
that he would not do it again ; that in a deep place be-
tween the shoal and the beach, it was with great diffi-
culty he kept from drowning, as his long boots had
filled with water and the weight of his clothes bore
him down.
It was understood that Mofras was on a tour of
general observation for the French government.
During his visit here he was in correspondence with the
officials at home, but it is not known that his visit had
MOFRAS AND SUTTER. 65
any political bearing or significance, and if he had any
instructions in this direction from the government he did
not disclose them. During his stay on the coast he
visited General Sutter, in Sacramento valley, stoppin^^
there a month or two ; also General Vallejo at the
military headquarters at Sonoma, sojourning there one
or two weeks. He also visited Monterey, the seat of
the government, where he was courteously and hos-
pitably received by Governor Alvarado and the other
officials. Next, he visited Don Alexander Rotcheff at
the Russian Fur Company's headquarters at Fort Ross,
and he went also to other prominent points. He was
very cordially received and entertained by Rotcheff
and his wife, both of whom spoke the French lan-
guage perfectly, and ]\ I ofras therefore felt quite at home
in their company. Don Alexander when visiting Yerba
Buena spoke of Mofras and praised him. The visit to
Sutter pleased him greatly. He spoke of Sutter in
the highest terms, and thought his establishment and
operations in the Sacramento valley would people and
develop that immense country sooner than it could
otherwise have been done, as he believed Sutter
would induce a large immigration to that point by the
numerous letters he had written home to his own
country and to the United States. Mofras was very
favorably impressed with California, and he frequently
spoke of its future importance, thinking it would some
day be a great country, and he freely expressed his
opinion that it would belong to the United States. Con-
5
66 AN INDIAN TRADITION.
sidering its natural resources and advantages he thought
that under the United States government it would be-
come a rich and important section. His admiration
and astonishment at the bay of San Francisco were fre-
quently expressed, and I have seen hini many times
standing in front of Mr. Spear's store, at the corner
of Montgomery and Clay streets, which was then quite
near the water, and go into raptures on looking at the
bay, stretching out his arms with enthusiasm and ex-
claming with delight, Frenchman-like, at the broad and
beautiful expanse of water before us, predicting that it
would be a great field for com'merce ; and saying again
and again, he had never seen anything like it and the
more he traveled over it the more he was impressed
with its grandeur and importance.
Spear had a very high opinion of Mofras, and I
will mention a little incident which occurred one day
when Mofras was stopping at Spear's house. We were
at dinner, and the servant in passing a plate to Mofras
accidently touched his glass with it, which gave out a
sharp ring, and instantly Mofras placed one of his
fingers on the glass to stop the sound. Spear men-
tioned it afterward as an illustration of the good breed-
ing of the Frenchman.
A curious tradition was current in regard to the
bay of San Francisco, which greatly interested Mofras,
as well as myself and others who heard it. Captain
Richardson, who has been mentioned before in this
narrative, had in his employ at that time an Indian by
THE GOLDEN GATE HOW FORMED. 67
the name of Monica. He was about eighty years of
age, but still active and vigorous, and was employed by
Captain Richardson as boatman on the bay, in launches
which were used to run between the shipping and dif-
ferent points to convey goods back and forth. This
old Indian told Captain Richardson that the story had
been handed down from his remote ancestors, that a
long way back there was no Golden Gate ; that between
Fort Point and right across to the north it was all closed
by a mountain range, and there was no access to the
ocean there, but the natural outlet of the bay was
through the SantaClara valley, across the Salinas plains,
to the bay of Monterey ; that in a tremendous convul-
sion of nature the mounttain barrier between the bay and
the ocean was thrown down and a passage made where
the Golden Gate now is. That became the entrance to
the bay. In the course of time the Santa Clara valley
and the other land between the lower end of the bay
of San Francisco and the bay of Monterey became
drained and elevated.
In this connection, I may mention that I have seen
sea-shells which were brought up from a depth of loS
feet in boring an artesian well at San Leandro, and I
learn that shells were found in Alameda at a depth of
about 100 feet.
Captain Richardson frequently alluded to this tra-
dition in the presence of Nathan Spear, Monsieur Mo-
fras and myself. Mofras being a scientific man, he be-
came so impressed with this statement that he rode out
68 MIRACULOUS WATERS AT THE PRESIDIO.
to Fort Point two or three times to examine personally
the features of that part of the bay, and from his obser-
vations there and of the country between here and the
bay of Monterey he expressed his opinion that the
theory or tradition was probably correct. In frequent
conversations at the dinner table he became quite en-
thusiastic in dilating upon the geological appearance
and indications of the country, especially in reference
to this story related by the old Indian Monica in regard
to the Golden Gate.
Near the Presidio, about three-quarters of a mile
southeast from the barracks, in the grounds of the
Miramontes family, was a very remarkable spring called
" Polin " — an Indian name. The spring was celebrated
from a very remote period for its virtues, which were
handed down from the Indians for several generations,
and afterward through the Californians. It is claimed
that it possessed the remarkable power of producing
fecundity in women who were childless, and who par-
took of its waters. Many authentic instances could be
quoted in support of this assumption. In proof it may
be mentioned that the Miramontes family, living on the
spot, had twenty children, and other families living in
that neighborhood were blessed with a large progeny.
Many who came to the place from a distance, by the
advice of friends, to test the wonderful qualities of the
water, were alike rewarded for their faith by a happy
increase in their families. The firsc wife of William D.
M. Howard, a well known early San Franciscan, for
THE RAINY WINTER OF 1839-4O. 69
several years without children, went thither by the ad-
vice of Mrs. Miramontes, and at the proper time was
blessed with a lovely little daui^hter. Other instances
might be given in proof of its efficacy in this direction.
The winter of 1839-40 was a severe one in Cali-
fornia, an immense quantity of rain falling. It poured
down for forty days and nights, with but little cessation.
Old Domingo Peralta, who had come across the bay to
Yerba Buena with his family, in a boat, to obtain sup-
plies, was caught here and obliged to remain several
weeks, stopping at Spear's house with his large family
of ten or twelve persons until he could re-cross the bay
to get home.
After Captain Sutter had established himself in
the Sacramento valley, he sent a boat to Yerba Buena
about once in two weeks for the purpose of obtain-
ing supplies for his station, Spear being his agent.
During the prolonged storms of this year the whole
country was flooded, and communication w^as conse-
quently interrupted, and we didn't hear from Captain
Sutter for more than a month. At last a boat made its
appearance, bringing a letter from him, in which he de-
scribed the country as one vast expanse of water.
Among the stories he mentioned was of seeing the
deer, elk and other animals crowded together in large
numbers on every little prominence which appeared
above the waters, to protect themselves from being car-
ried away by the flood. The boat, in endeavoring to
return, was unable to stem the current, which was so
yO CAPTAIN SUTTER SENDS FOR SUPPLIES.
Strong and rapid as to keep her on the passage several
weeks before she reached Sutter's place again. The
boat's captain was a Swiss, and the boatmen Indians,
formerly of the Missions, who had returned to their
wild Indian life.
Some years before my first arrival here in 183 1,
there was an exceedingly dry- season. The priest at
the head of the Mission of Santa Clara ordered the de-
slruction of several thousand head of horses and mares
belonging to the Mission, which was accomplished by
drowning them in the Guadalupe river, in order to pre-
serve the feed for the cattle, as there was not enough
for all, and the cattle were re^jarded as of more value
than the horses.
CHAPTER XIII.
The Priests and the Missions — The Work of Converting Indians — Missions under
rule of the Mexican Republic — Culture and Attainments of the Priests —
Father Gonzales — Horses supplied Gratuitously to the Traders by the
Rancheros and Padres — The Supercargo sometimes owned his own Horses
— Manner of Trading with Incoming Vessels — Comforts of the Adobe
Dwelling — Family Traveling Equipages — Houses and House-keeping — A
Word of Praise for Native California Ladies — Educational Facilities Scarce
— Sites Selected for Dwellings.
The priests of California belonged to the Order of
Franciscans. Their ordinary dress was a loose woolen
garment, made whole and put on over the head, reach-
ing nearly to the ground, of a plain drab or brownish
hue, which was the color of the Order. The dress was
made with wide sleeves, a hood falling back on the
shoulders, which could be drawn over the head when
it was desired by the wearer, if the weather was cold
or unpleasant ; and at the waist was a girdle and tassels
of the same material tied around the dress or habit,
the tassels hanging down in front. Sometimes they
were left untied. One requirement of the Order was
that every priest should have shaven on the crown of
the head a circular spot about three or four inches in
diameter. This I noticed among all of them. As the
hair commenced growing it was again shaved, and this
spot was always kept bare.
The priests at the various Missions were usually
men of very pure character, particularly the Spanish
72 INDIANS ADVANCED IN CIVILIZATION.
priests. The first priests who estabh'shed the Missions
were directly from Spain. They were superior men in
point of talent, education, morals and executive ability,
as the success of the Missions under their establishment
and administration showed. They seemed to be en-
tirely disinterested, their aim and ambition being to de-
velop the country, and civilize and Christianize the In-
dians, for which purpose the Missions were established.
They worked zealously and untiringly in this behalf, and
to them must be given the credit for what advancement
in civilization, intelligence, industry, good habits and
good morals pertained to the country at that day, when
they laid the foundation of the present advanced civil-
ization and development of the country.
After the independence of Mexico, and its separa-
tion from Spain, the Missions of California passed un-
der the control of Mexican priests, who were also men
of culture and attainments, generally of excellent char-
acter, but as a class they were inferior to their predeces-
sors. They were always hospitable to strangers, all vis-
itors were kindly received and entertained with the best
they could offer, and the table was well supplied.
The wine which they made at the Missions was of a
superior quality and equal to any that I have drank
elsewhere.
In trading through the country and traveling from
point to point it was customary for travelers to stop at
the Missions as frequently and as long as they desired.
This was expected as a matter of course by the priests,
FATHER GONZALES. 73
and had the traveler neglected to avail himself of the
privilege it would have been regarded as an offense by
the good Fathers. On approaching the Mission the
traveler would be met at the door or at the wide ve-
randa by the Padre, who would greet him warmly, em-
brace him and invite him in, and he was furnished with
the best the Mission afforded at the table, given one of
the best rooms to sleep in, attended by servants, and
everything possible was done to make him at home
and comfortable during his stay. On leaving he
was furnished with a fresh horse, and a good vaquero
was appointed to attend him to the next Mission, where
he was received and entertained with the same hospi-
tality, and so on as far as the journey extended.
The last of the Mexican priests was Father Gon-
zales, who presided in '38 at the Mission of San Jose,
and who died a few years ago at the Mission of Santa
Barbara at a very advanced age. He was a noble man,
a true Christian, very much respected and beloved by
all his people, and by all who knew him. Whenever
I went there he always welcomed me in the most cor-
dial manner, and the moment I saw him I felt drawn
toward him as by a lodestone. He would take me in
and say, '' Sienta usted Jiijito'' (sit down, my little son),
and seating himself close by my side, he entertained me
in such delightful manner by his conversation, which
flowed easily and naturally in a continuous stream, that
one hardly realized that he was only an humble priest.
His people greatly honored and loved him, and he was
74 TRAVELERS ENTERTAINED AT THE :\riSSIONS.
known among them as The Saint on Earth." There
were some exceptions among the priests as to general
rectitude and excellence of character, as there are every-
where ; but as a class they were a fine body of men of
superior character, and accomplished a vast deal of good.
The priests were much respected by the people, who
looked to them for advice and guidance.
The supercargoes of the vessels that were trading
on the coast, of course had occasion to visit all the set-
tlements in the interior or along the coast to conduct
their business with the people, and to travel back and
forth up and down the country. In visiting down the
coast they usually went on the vessels, which had a fair
wind most of the time going south ; but on coming up
there was commonly a head wind, which made the
voyage tedious, and the supercargoes then took to
land and came up on horseback, accompanied by a va-
quero, stopping along from one Mission to another or
at some rancho, where they were always welcome, and
where they were supplied with fresh horses whenever
they required them, free of charge, by the Fathers or
the rancheros. These horses were furnished as a mat-
ter of course with entire freedom and hospitality by the
farmers and the Padres. When the traveler reached
another stopping place he was provided with a fresh
horse, and such a thing as continuing the journey on
the horse he rode the day before was not to be thought
of, so polite and courteous were these generous Califor-
nians. The traveler had no further care or thou^rht in
SUPERCARGOES SUrPLIED WITH HORSES. 75
resfard to the horse he h;id been usincr, but left him
where he happened to be, and the Padre or ranchero
would undertake to send him back, or if this was not
convenient it was no matter, as the owner would never
ask any questions concerning his safety or return. It
would have been considered impoliteness for the guest
to express any concern about the horse or what was
to become of him. Sometimes the traveler, was fur-
nished by the rancheros with part of a caponera, ten or
twelve horses with a bell mare, and a vaquero, in order
that he might continue his journey to the end without
looking for other horses. He would travel along from
day to day, changing his horse each day and sometimes
oftener, and also that of his vaquero, and on reaching
his journey's end the vaquero would return with the
horses.
In later years, say after 1844, some of the smaller
rancheros gave more attention to horses than cattle
making it a speciality to have always on hand several
fine caponeras for the accommodation of travelers, who
in these latter years were accustomed to hire the num-
ber of horses they required for their journey, with a bell
mare, and a vaquero to accompany them, or at times
the owner of the horses himself went with them. Santa
Barbara, and to some extent Los Angeles, were points
especially where horses were furnished in this way.
Some of the supercargoes of the vessels owned their
horses, to the number of twelve to fifteen, and employed
a vaquero continuously. When the su[)ercargoes were
76 HIDES AND TALLOW IN LARGE WAGONS.
at sea the vaqueros looked after these horses, and took
them from point to point to meet the vessel when she
would come into a certain port. When the supercargo
landed he would find his horses there, and journey with
them from place to place as his business required. The
vaquero, while waiting for the vessel, would stay with
some family, probably one of his relatives, of whom he
most likely had many in various parts of California, and
the horses would feed in the vicinity. Many supercar-
goes preferred this method, as they could always thus
have the horses and vaqueros to which they were accus-
tomed. As the supercargo came to a Mission or rancho
near a port, he would stop a few days waiting for the
vessel to come along, and its approach was sometimes
announced by a vaquero, and sometimes by a gun from
the vessel. The supercargo would then- go down and
take with him the customers to whom he was to bill the
goods from the vessel. The rancheros would attend
him with their loads of hide and tallow to pay their in-
debtedness incurred on a former trip, or to make new
purchases by exchanging them for goods. They would
convey their hides and tallow in large wagons of very
primitive fashion. The body of the vehicle was set on
the axles, having no spring, but with four wheels (the
smaller wagons with two) sawed out of a tree four feet
in diameter, and about a foot thick, a solid block or sec-
tion, with a hole in the middle for the axle. Sticks
were set up perpendicularly along the sides and covered
with hides stretched across them, thus inclosino- the body
ADOBE HOUSES AND BOSTON FURNITURE. ']^
of the wagon. In this way they brought back the goods
they bought. The wagons were drawn by oxen, with
a nearly straight yoke fitting the top of the neck just
back of the horns, and fastened with a piece of soft
hide, and attached thereto and to the wagon. FamiHes
sometimes took long journeys in these wagons fitted up
with more style, the sides being lined with calico or
sheeting, or even light silk, with mattresses on the floor
of the wagon. \\ ith cooking and eating arrangements
they went along comfortably, camping by a spring, and
sleeping in the wagon, traveling days at a time.
The people lived in adobe houses, and the houses
had tile roofs ; they were comfortable and roomy, warm
in the winter and cool in the summer. Their furniture
was generally plain, mostly imported from Boston in
the ships that came to the coast to trade. Generally
the houses had floors, but without carpets in the earlier
days. Some of the humble people had no floors to their
houses, but the ground became perfectly hard and firm
as if cemented. The women were exceedingly clean
and neat in their houses and persons and in all their
domestic arrangements. One of their peculiarities was
the excellence and neatness of their beds and bedding,
which were often elegant in appearance, highly and
tastefully ornamented, the coverlids and pillow cases
being sometimes of satin and trimmed with beautiful
and costly lace. The women were plainly and becom-
ingly attired, were not such devotees of fashion as at
the present day, and did not indulge in jewelry to
yS DELICIOUS DISHES.
excess. Their tables were frugally furnished, the
food clean and inviting, consisting mainly of good
beef broiled on an iron rod, or steaks with onions,
also mutton, chicken, eggs, each family keeping a
good stock of fowls. The bread was tortillas;
sometimes it was made with yeast. Beans were a staple
dish with them, admirably cooked, corn, also potatoes ;
and red peppers were their favorite seasoning. A de-
licious dish was made of chicken and green corn, partly
cooked and put together, then wrapped in the green
leaves of the corn, tied with the same and boiled
called tamales. Their meat stews were excellent
when not too highly seasoned with red pepper.
The people were sober, sometimes using California
wine, but not to excess. They were not given to strong
drink, and it was a rare occurrence to see an intoxi-
cated Californian. The men were good husbands
generally, the women good wives, both faithful to their
domestic relations. The California women, married or
unmarried, of all classes, were the most virtuous I have
ever seen. There were exceptions, but they were ex-
ceedingly rare.
The single men were not so much so, associating
to some extent with Indian women, although the
married men were generally excellent husbands and
kind fathers.
During my long and intimate acquaintance with
Californians, I have found the women as a class much
brighter, quicker in their perceptions, and generally
TALENT AND TASTE FOR MUSIC. 79
smarter than the men. Their husbands oftentimes
looked to them for advice and direction in their general
business affairs. The people had but limited opportu-
nities for education. As a rule they were not much
educated ; but they had abundant instinct and native
talent, and the women were full of natural dignity and
self-possession ; they talked well and intelligently, and
appeared to much better advantage than might have
been supposed from their meagre educational facilities.
The families of the wealthier classes had more or less
education ; their contact with the foreign population was
an advantage to them in this respect. There were no
established schools outside the Missions, and what little
education the young people obtained, they picked up in
the family, learning to read and write among them-
selves. They seemed to have a talent and taste for
music. Many of the women played the guitar skill-
fully, and the young men the violin. In almost every
family there were one or more musicians, and every-
where music was a familiar sound. Of course, they
had no scientific and technical musical instruction.
The houses of the rancheros were usually built
upon entirely open ground, devoid of trees, generally
elevated, overlooking a wide stretch of the country
round, in order that they might look out to a distance
on all sides, and see what was going on, and notice if
any intruders were about the rancho for the purpose of
stealing cattle or horses, in which way they were oc-
casionally annoyed by the Indians, or perhaps by some
80 COMMANDING SITES OF ADOBE DWELLINGS.
vicious countrymen ; and the house was placed where
there was a spring or running water. These houses
stood out bare and plain, with no adornment of trees,
shrubbery or flowers, and there were no structures,
except the kitchens, attached to the main buildings.
Even in the towns it was a rare thing to see flowers or
shrubbery about the houses of the Californians.
I have often inquired of the rancheros, on seeing
a beautiful and shaded spot, why they did not select it
for their residence, and they would always answer it
was too near the forest — they having in view always
security against the Indians.
CHAPTER XIV.
Indian Treachery — Fighting the Indians — An Indian Arrow Wound ultimately
causes the Death of Comandante Juan Prado Mesa — 'I'he Californians Early
Risers — Daily Customs of the Rancheros — Dress of the Leisure Season —
Costume of the Native Californian when Mounted— Trappings of his Horse
— Gallantry in the vSaddle — Habits of the Household — Gray-headed Persons
Scarce — A Contented People — Class Distinctions — Courtesy a Common
Thing — Home Entertainments — The Dancing Endurance of the Native
California Women — The Author takes a Whirl in the Waltz — Surprising
Feats of Horsemanship — Upsetting a Bull — Concerning the Double
Marriage of Don Jose Martinez — He proves a True Philanthrophist — Dies,
and has an Immense Funeral.
Occasionally the Indians who had been at the
Missions, and had become well informed in regard to
the surrounding neighborhood and the different ranches
in the vicinity, would desert the Missions, retreat to
their old haunts and join the uncivilized Indians. At
times they would come back with some of the wild
Indians to the farms, for the purpose of raiding upon
them, and capturing the domesticated horses. They
would come quietly in the night, and carry oft one or
two caponeras of horses, sometimes as many as five or
six, and drive them back to the Indian country for their
own use. In the morning a ranchero would discover
that he was without horses for the use of the ranch.
He would then borrow some horses from his neighbor,
and ten or twelve men would collect together and go
in pursuit of the raiders. They were nearly always
successful in overtaking the thieves and recovering
6
82 INDIANS RAID THE RANCHOS.
their horses, though oftentimes not without a fierce
fight with the Indians, who were armed with bows and
arrows, and the CaHfornians with horse carbines.
At these combats the Indians frequently lost some of
their number, and often as many as eight or ten were
killed. The CaHfornians were sometimes wounded and
occasionally killed. Once in a while, but very seldom,
the Indians were successful in eluding pursuit, and got
safely away with the horses, beyond recovery. In the
early part of '39, nearly all the saddle horses belonging
to captain Ygnacio Martinez, at the rancho Pinole,
were thus carried off by the Indians, and his son Don
Jose Martinez, (whose niece I afterward married), with
eight or ten of his neighbors, went in pursuit of them,
and though they succeeded in recovering the animals,
they lost one of their number, Felipe Briones, who was
killed by an arrow. The fight on that occasion was
exceedingly severe, and the Indians became so incensed,
and their numbers increased so much, that the little
party deemed it too hazardous to continue the fight,
and retreated, taking with them the recovered horses,
but were compelled to leave the body of Briones on the
field. Two days afterward the party went back and
recovered it, but found it terribly mutilated. Some
eight or ten of the Indians were killed by the CaHfor-
nians in that fight.
Juan Prado Mesa vvas the comandante of the
Presidio at Yerba Buena, and frequently left his post to
go in campaigns against the Indians with part of his
INDIAN ARROW WOUNDS. S ;^
command. He was always considered a successful Ind-
ian fighter. He was a brave and good man. On one
occasion he was wounded with an arrow, which ulti-
matelv carried him to his q;rave. He was blessed with
a large family. I became very well acquainted with
him, and he frequently furnished me with fine saddle
horses and a vaquero to make my business circuit around
the bay. He was under the immediate command of
General Vallejo, with whom he was intimate, and some-
times he confided to me secret movements of the
government.
o
The Californians were early risers. The ranchero
would frequently receive a cup of coffee or chocolate in
bed, from the hands of a servant, and on getting up
immediately order one of the vaqueros to bring him a
certain horse which he indicated, every horse in a ca-
ponera having a name, which was generally bestowed
on account of some peculiarity of the animal. He then
mounted and rode off about the rancho, attended by a
vaquero, coming back to breakfast between eight and
nine o'clock.
This breakfast was a solid meal, consisting of came
asada (meat broiled on a spit), beefsteak with rich gravy
or with onions, eggs, beans, tortillas, sometimes bread
and coffee, the latter often made of peas. After break-
fast the ranchero would call for his horse again, usually
selecting a different one, not because the first was
fatigued, but as a matter of fancy or pride, and ride off
again around the farm or to visit the neighbors. He
84 PICTURESQUE DRESS OF RANCHEROS.
was gone till tweh^e or one o'clock, when he returned
for dinner, which was similar to breakfast, after which
he again departed, returning about dusk in the evening
for supper, this being mainly a repetition of the two for-
mer meals. ,
Although there was so little variety in their food
from one day to another, everything was cooked so well
and so neatly and made so inviting, the matron of the
house giving her personal attention to everything, that
the meals were always relished.
When the rancheros thus rode about, during the
leisure season, which was between the marking time
and the viatanza or killing time, and from the end of the
matanza to the spring time again, the more wealthy of
them were generally dressed in a good deal of style,
with short breeches extending to the knee, ornamented
with gold or silver lace at the bottom, with botas
(leggings) below^ made of fine soft deer skin, well
tanned and finished, richly colored, and stamped with
beautiful devices {these articles having been imported
from Mexico, where they were manufactured), and
tied at the knee with a silk cord, two or three times
wound around the leg, with heavy gold or silver tas-
sels hanging below the knee. They wore long vests,
with filagree buttons of gold or silver, while those
of more ordinary means had them of brass. They wore
no long coats, but a kind of jacket of good length, most
generally of dark blue cloth, also adorned with filagree
buttons. Over that was the long serape or poncho.
THE CALIFORNIA SADDLE. S^
made in Mexico and imported from there, costing from
$20 to $100. according to the quaHty of the cloth and
the richness of the ornamentation. The serape and
the poncJio were made in the same way as to size and
cut of the garments, but the former was of a coarser
texture than the latter, and of a variety of colors and
patterns, while the poncJio was of dark blue or black
cloth, of finer quality, generally broadcloth. The serape
was always plain, while xh^ pone ho was heavily trimmed
with ofold or silver frinofe around the edcres, and a little
below the collars around the shoulders. They wore
hats imported from Mexico and Peru, generally stiff,
the finer quality of softer material —<^£Y//;7^, a kind of
beaver skin obtained in those countries. Their saddles
were silver-mounted, embroidered with silver or gold,
the bridle heavily mounted with silver, and the reins
made of the most select hair of the horse's mane, and at
a distance of every foot or so there was a link of silver
connecting the different parts together. The tree of
the saddle was similar to that now in use by the Span-
iards, and covered with the mochiia, which was of
leather. It extended beyond the saddle to the shoulder
of the horse in front and back to the fiank, and down-
wards on either side, half way between the rider's knee
and foot. This was plainly made, sometimes stamped
with ornamental figures on the side and sometimes
without stamping. Over this was the coraza, a leather
covering of finer texture, a little larger and extending
beyond the mochila all around, so as to completely cover
86 A horseman's trappings.
it. It was elaborately stamped with handsome orna-
mental devices. Behind the saddle, and attached there-
to, was the anquera, of leather, of half-moon shape, cov-
ering the top of the hindquarters of the horse, but not
reaching to the tail ; which was also elaborately stamped
with figures and lined with sheep skin, the wool side
next to the horse. This was an ornament, and also a
convenience in case the rider chose to take a person be-
hind him on the horse. Frequently some gallant young
man would take a lady on the horse with him, putting
her in the saddle in front and himself riding on the an-
quera behind. The stirrups were cut out of a solid
block of wood, about two and a half inches in thick-
ness. They were very large and heavy. The strap was
passed through a little hole near the top. The tapadera
was made of two circular pieces of very stout leather,
about twelve to fifteen inches in diameter, the outer one
a little smaller than the inner one, fastened together
with strips of deer skin culled ^-amiisa, the saddle strap
passing through two holes near the top to attach it to
the stirrup ; so that when the foot was placed in the
stirrup the tapadera was in front, concealed it, and pro-
tected the foot of the rider froni the brush and bram-
bles in going through the woods.
This was the saddle for everyday use of the ranch-
eros and vaqueros, that of the former being somewhat
nicer and better finished. The reins for everyday use
were made of deer or calfskin or other soft leather,
cut in thin strips and nicely braided and twisted to-
87
gether, and at the end of the reins was attached an
extra piece of the same with a ring, which was used as
a whip. Their spurs were inlaid with gold and silver,
and the straps of the spurs worked with silver and gold
thread.
When thus mounted and fully equipped, these men
presented a magnificent appearance, especially on the
feast days of the Saints, which were celebrated at the
Missions. Then they were arrayed in their finest and
most costly habiliments, and their horses in their gay-
est and most expensive trappings. They were usually
large, well developed men, and presented an imposing
aspect. The outfit of a ranchero and his horse, thus
equipped, I have known to cost several thousand dollars.
The gentleman who carried a lady in this way,
before him on a horse, was considered as occupying
a post of honor, and it was customary when a bride
was to be married in church, which was usual in
those days, for a relative to take her before him in
this fashion on his horse to the church where the cere-
mony was to be performed. This service, which in-
volved the greatest responsibility and trust on the part
of the gentleman, was discharged by him in the most
gallant and polite manner possible.
On the occasion of my marriage, in 1847, the bride
was taken in this way to the church by her uncle, Don
Jose Martinez. On these occasions the horse was
adorned in the most sumptuous manner, the anquera
and coraza being beatitifully worked with ornamental
88 A CONTENTED PEOPLE.
devices in gold and silver thread. The bride rode on
her own saddle, sometimes by herself, which was made
like the gentleman's, but a little smaller, and without
stirrups, in place of which a piece of silk — red, blue or
green — perhaps a yard wide and two or three yards
long, joined at the two ends, was gracefully hung over
the saddle, puffed like a bunch of flowers at the fasten-
ing, and hung down at one side of the horse in a loop,
in which the lady lightly rested her foot.
The ladies were domestic and exceeciingly indus-
trious, although the wealthier class had plenty of Indian
servants. They were skillful with their needles, making
the garments for their families, which were generally
numerous. The women were proficient in sewing.
They also did a good deal of nicer needlework of fancy
kinds — embroidery, etc. — in which they excelled, all for
family use. Their domestic occupations took up most
of their time.
Both men and women preserved their hair in all its
fullness and color, and it was rare to see a gray- headed
person. A man fifty years of age, even, had not a sin-
gle gray hair in his head or beard, and I don't remem-
ber ever seeing, either among the vaqueros or the
rancheros, or among the women, a single bald-headed
person. I frequently asked them what was the cause
of this remarkably good preservation of their hair, and
they would shrug their shoulders, and say they supposed
it was on account of their quiet way of living and free-
dom from worry and anxiety.
SOCIAL CONDITIONS. 89
The native Californians were about the happiest
and most contented people I ever saw, as also were the
early foreigners who settled among them and intermar-
ried with them, adopted their habits and customs, and
became, as it were, a part of themselves.
Among the Californians there was more or less
caste, and the wealthier families were somewhat aristo-
cratic and did not associate freely with the humbler
classes ; in towns the wealthy families were decid-
edly proud and select, the wives and daughters espec-
ially. These people were naturally, whether rich or
poor, of a proud nature, and though always exceedingly
polite, courteous and friendly, they were possessed ot a
native dignity, an inborn aristocracy, which was appa-
rent in their bearing, walk, and general demeanor.
They were descended from the best families of Spain,
and never seemed to forget their origin, even if their
outward surroundings did not correspond to their in-
ward feeling. Of course among the wealthier classes
this pride was more manifest than among the poorer.
In my long intercourse with these people, extend-
ing over many years, I never knew an instance of in-
civility of any kind. They were always ready to reply
to a question, and answered in the politest manner, even
the humblest of them ; and in passing along the road, the
poorest vaquero would salute you politely. If you wanted
any little favor of him, like delivering a message to
another rancho, or anything of that sort, he was ready
to oblige, and did it with an air of courtesy and griice
90 DANCING A GREAT ENJOYMENT.
and freedom of manner that were very pleasing. They
showed everywhere and always this spirit of accommoda-
tion, both men and women. The latter, though reserved
and dignified, always answered politely and sweetly, and
generally bestowed upon you a smile, which, coming
from a handsome face, was charming in the extreme.
This kindness of manner was no affectation, but gen-
uine goodness, inward as well as outward, and com-
manded one's admiration and respect.
I was astonished at the endurance of the Califor-
nia women in holding out, night after night, in dancing,
of which they never seemed to weary, but kept on with
an appearance of freshness and elasticity that was as
charming as surprising. Their actions, movements and
bearing were as full of life and animation after several
nights of dancing as at the beginning, while the men,
on the other hand, became wearied, showing that their
powers of endurance were not equal to those of the
ladies. I have frequently heard the latter ridiculing
the gentlemen for not holding out unfatigued to the
end of a festival of this kind.
The rancheros and their household generally re-
tired early, about eight o'clock, unless a valecito casero
(little home-party) was on hand, when this lasted till
twelve or one. They v/ere fond of these gatherings,
and almost every family having some musician of its
own, music and dancing were indulged in, and a very
pleasant time enjoyed. I have attended many of them
and always was agreeably entertained. These parties
A CELEBRATED WEDDING PARTY. 9 1
were usually impromptu, without formality, and were
often held for the entertairmient of a guest who might
be stopping at the house. The balls or larger parties
were of more importance, and usually occurred in the
towns. On the occasion of the marriage of a son or
daughter of a ranchero they took place on the rancho,
the marriage being celebrated amid great festivities,
lasting several days.
Fandango was a term for a dance or entertainment
among the lower classes, where neighbors and others
were invited in, and engaged themselves without any
great degree of formality. The entertainments ot the
wealthy and aristocratic class were more exclusive in
character; invitations were more carefully given, more
formality observed, and of course, more elegance and
refinement prevailed. An entertainment of this char-
acter was known as a baile.
In November, 1838, I was a guest at the wedding
party given at the marriage of Don Jose Martinez to the
daughter of Don Ygnacio Peralta, which lasted about a
week, dancing being kept up all the night with a com-
pany of at least one hundred men and wonien from the
adjoining ranchos, about three hours after daylight
being given to sleep, after which picnics in the woods
were held during the forenoon, and the afternoon was
devoted to bull fighting. This programme was contin-
ued for a week, when I myself had become so exhausted
for want of regular sleep that I was glad to escape. ihe
bride and bridegroom were not given any seclusion until
the third night.
92 A CELEBRATED WEDDING PARTY.
On this occasion Dona Rafaela Martinez, wife of
Dr. Tennent, and sister of the bridegroom, a young
woman full of life and vivacity, very attractive and
graceful in manner, seized upon me and led me on to
the floor with the waltzers. I was ignorant of waltzing
up to that moment. She began moving round the
room with me in the waltz, and in some unaccountable
manner, perhaps owing to her magnetism, I soon found
myself going through the figure with ease. After that
I had no difficulty in keeping my place with the other
waltzers, and was reckoned as one of them. I waltzed
with my fascinating partner a good portion of the night.
During this festivity, Don Jose Martinez, who was
a wonderful horseman, performed some feats which aston-
ished me. For instance, while ridins: at the gfreatest
speed, he leaned over his saddle to one side, as he swept
along, and picked up from the ground a small coin, which
had been put there to try his skill, and then went on
without slackening his speed.
Some years after that I was visiting him, and while
we were out taking a ride over his rancho, we came to
an exceedingly steep hill, almost perpendicular; at the
top was a bull quietly feeding. He looked up and
said, " Do you see that bull?" " Yes," said I. " Now,"
said he, " we will have some fun. I am going up there
to drive him down and lasso him on the way." It
seemed impossible owing to the steepness of the
declivity. Nevertheless, he did it, rode up to the top,
started the bull down at full speed, and actually lassoed
DON JOSE MARTINEZ AND FA^[ILV. 93
the animal on the way, threw him down, and the bull
at once commenced rolling down the steep side of the
hill, over and over, until he reached the bottom, Jose
following on his horse and slackening up the riata as he
went along. He was a graceful rider.
After many years of happiness with his excellent
wife, during which they were blessed with six or eight
children, Don Jose Martinez became a widower. A few
years after this he married an English lady, a sister of
Dr. Samuel J. Tennent, who was then living at Pinole
ranch, and who married a sister of Don Jose Martinez.
Dr. Tennent still lives on a portion of the ranch in-
herited by his wife. This marriage of Don Jose to a
lady outside of his own countrywomen was rather an
unusual occurrence among the Californians. The mar-
riage proved a happy one, and half a dozen children
resulted therefrom. This lady is now living in San
Francisco.
Don Jose Martinez had the largest kind of a heart,
and if anyone called at his house who was in need of a
horse, he was never refused, and the people of the sur-
rounding country were constantly in receipt of favors at
his hands. If one wanted a bullock, and had not the
means to pay for it, he would send out a vaquero to lasso
one antl bring it in and tie it to a cabestro (a steer broken
for that purpose), so that the man could take it home, and
told him he might pay for it when convenient, or it not
convenient, it was no matter. So with a horse which
he might furnish, it didn't matter whether the animal
94 DEATH OF DON JOSE MARTINEZ.
was returned or not. This generosity was continual
and seemed to have no Hmit. At his death, which
occurred in 1864, his funeral was attended by a vast
concourse of people from all the surrounding country,
who came in wagons, buggies and carriages to the
number of several hundred vehicles, such was the high
appreciation in which he was held by the community.
I never saw such respect paid to the memory of any
other person. If true generosity and genuine philan-
thropy entitle a man to a place in the kingdom of
Heaven, I am sure that Don Jose Martinez is received
there as one of the chief ouests.
CHAPTER XV.
Horse Racing as an Amusement — Uull Fighting — I.assoeing Bears by the Whole-
sale — A Night of Horror to the Author — ^Don \'icente exhibits his skill in
Throwing Cattle^Gambling not a Vice with the Xative Californians —
Their Promptitude in Business Transactions — Pride Supported their
Honesty.
Besides indulgence in music and dancing, the men
found their recreation, as they did their occupation,
chiefly on horseback.
Horse racing was one of their favorite amuse-
ments, which they occasionally enjoyed ; especialh' on
the Saints' feast days, which were general holidays.
The vaqueros were then relieved from duty, wore
their best clothes, and were allowed to mount the best
horses and to have their sport. These races were
usually from two to four hundred yards and partici-
pated in by only two horses at a time. Bets were made
in cattle and horses, and large numbers of animals were
lost and won on these occasions ; at times one hundred
up to several hundred head of cattle were bet on the
result of a single short race. They generally put up
their baquillas, (heifers.) They had no money to wager,
but plenty of cattle. Sometimes horses were also bet,
but not often. There was on one occasion a famous
race at Los Angeles of nine miles, between the horses
of two wealthy rancheros, and an immense amount
of property changed hands on the result of the race,
cattle and horses, mostly the former. This race at-
96 DON JOSE RAMON CARILLO.
tracted quite a large crowd of people, and was
considered a great affair for that day, Don Jose
Ramon Carillo, of the Santa Rosa ranch, was ex-
tremely fond of horses, a very expert and accom-
plished horseman himself, and a brave and good
fellow. On his rancho he had a number of fine capo-
neras, I think as many as ten or twelve, all of the
best horses. In 1844 I bought a fine horse of him
for which I paid $50, which at that day was a large
price ; he was a splendid animal, a dark yellow, darker
than buckskin. I bought another, equally as good, a
dapple gray, for $20, all he asked for him. Either of
them to-day would be worth $200. Don Jose was pas-
sionately fond of bear-hunting, and talked of this sport
and of his love of horses with the o-reatest enthusiasm,
and never seemed to be at ease unless he was on a
horse. On several occasions when I was visiting him
in the summer season, when the bears were plenty, he
was always engaged in hunting them, and tried to per-
suade me to join him in the sport, urging me to become
a bear-hunter, saying he would teach me to lasso bears
and make me as good as himself in that line. But my
experience with bears (as related a few pages further
on) had satisfied me, and I always declined absolutely
to become a participant. In 1844 Don Jose Ramon
ran a race with the first horse he had sold me, at the
Mission Dolores, against a horse owned by Francisco
Sanchez, named Palomino, and was just barely beaten,
the distance being 300 yards. Thereupon, William
HORSE RACING IN 1 844. 97
Rae, of the Hudson's Bay Company's post, put up a
mouse-colored horse named Grullo for a race of 600
yards aq-ainst mine, and the bets were doubled, and
Don Jose Ramon, with my horse, won by a long dis-
tance. He was much pleased with his success, and Rae
was much chagrined with the failure of his horse. At
this occurrence, James Alexander Forbes, then and for
several years previous British vice-consul, was the
judge of the race.
The bull-fighting was usually held on one of the
Saint's days. The bull was turned into an enclosure,
and the horsemen would come in, mounted on their
best animals, and fight the bull for the entertainment of
the spectators, killing him finally. Sometimes a bear
and bull fight would take place, another amusement
they had at the killing season at the matanza spot.
When cattle were slaughtered, bears came to the place
at night to feast on the meat that was left after the
hides and tallow were taken. The bears comino-, the
rancheros, with vaqueros, would go there for the
purpose of lassoeing them. This was one of their
greatest sports ; highly exciting and dangerous, but the
bear always got the worst of it. One would lasso a
bear by the neck, and another lasso the same beast by
the hindfoot, and then pulling in different directions the
poor bear was soon strained and strangled to death.
Sometimes half a dozen or more would be taken in a
single night in this way.
My wife's father once told me that in one night he,
with ten soldiers from the Preside of San Francisco, in
7
98 FORTY BEARS.
the woods at a place near San PVancisquito, one of the
stock ranchos of the Mission of Santa Clara containinci^
many thousand cattle and horses — about where Moun-
tain View is now, on the Southern Pacific Railroad —
lassoed and killed forty bears in one night. They had
a relay of horses to aid them in their work, and the
soldiers having originally been vaqueros were quite at
home in the sport. It was in the killing season, and
the bears, smelling the meat, had come down from the
mountain to partake of it. My father-in-law said this
was the most exciting event of his life, and that they
were so interested in dispatching the bears they forgot
all danger. The animals were lassoed by the throat
and also by the hind leg, a horseman at each end, and the
two pulling in opposite directions till the poor beast suc-
cumbed. The fun was kept up until about daylight, and
when they got through they w-ere completely exhausted,
and then discovered how much work they had done.
That region of country was largely infested with
bears and many hundreds were in the mountains back,
and that place was especially noted for bear-hunting by
Californians.
At one time I was encamped at the embarcadero
of Temescal, a place betw^een where the Oakland long
wharf and Berkeley are now, in order to receive hides
and tallow from the cattle that were slaughtered not far
away, which articles I was collecting for my employer,
Nathan Spear, I was there for several days with one
man, the boats meantime taking down loads of the
hides and tallow to Yerba Buena and returning empty.
BEARS SNIFFING AROUND A TENT. 99
One night I sent my man up to Don Vicente Peralta's
house, of an errand, and remained in my tent alone all
night, to my great peril, as I soon discov^ered.
The niatanza ground was about a mile from my
tent, and Peralta and his vaqueros came down in the
night to lasso the bears for sport. Some of them got
away from their enemies and made for my tent, prob-
ably being attracted to it as a strange object looming up
white in the darkness ; with the curiosity which such
animals are known to possess, they proceeded to inves-
tigate it. I sat in the tent and heard these animals cir-
cling round and round outside for sev^eral hours, going
off at times and returning. I was in constant fear that
they might push their noses under the canvas, work
themselves into the tent and devour me, and had thev
not been full from feasting on the matanza meat I should
probably have fallen a victim to their hunger.
As I sat there quietly and listened to their deep
breathing and movements outside, I was filled with fear
and anxiety, and it may easily be imagined how much I
was relieved when finally the beasts went off for good
and left me alone. I attribute my prematurely gray
hairs to the alarm I felt on that occasion.
On giving Don Vicente Peralta a narrative of my
narrow escape from being devoured by the bears which
he and his vaqueros had stampeded to my tent, he
laughed heartily, but became serious when he realized
the gravity of my situation, and remarked that there
were not enough men at the place that night to lasso all
the bears, and three of them had escaped, as he sup-
lOO CRITICAL EXPERIENCE.
posed to the mountains. He said they were not hun-
gry, having made a hearty supper from the slaughtered
cattle, but he thought it was best to be on the safe side;
that they were not to be trusted at any time, and a youth
of my fine appearance might be tempting to them.
After this occurrence whenever I had occasion to
stop over night there, he would send a vaquero with a
horse, and kind messages from himself and wife to be
their guest for the night, which invitations I gladly ac-
cepted. He asked me once or twice to accompany him
on his bear-hunting expeditions, but I always declined,
preferring the company of his handsome wife for the
evening to the possible danger of being devoured by
the osos, taking warning from my past critical expe-
rience.
Don Vicente was about six feet tall, finely propor-
tioned, straight as an arrow, weighing about 225 pounds,
hospitable, kind, and full of native dignity. His sur-
roundings were in keeping with his appearance, man-
ners and tastes.
I have ridden in company with him going to the
Feast of San Jose, when he was attired in a costly suit
trimmed with gold and silver lace, sitting with ease and
grace on his horse, which was equally well equipped,
followed by two mounted and well-dressed rnosos twenty
feet in the rear, and his wife about two or three hun-
dred yards distant with her splendidly mounted caval-
cade, the whole forming a picture worthy of admiration.
On one occasion in 1840 I stopped at his house
during one of my trading expeditions, remaining over
EXHILARATION OF THE CHASE. IQI
night. In the morning, when about ready to depart,
he said to me, " ISFo sc apiire." (Don't be in a hurry.)
" Let's take a ride out this beautiful April morning.
You see how handsome the hills are ; it is the pleasant-
est part of the year. Just now the cattle and horses
are beginning to change their coats, and everything is
fresh and new. Let's take a ride and enjoy the day."
Don Vicente being one of our best customers, with
whom I was anxious to keep on good terms, I accepted
the invitation, being also pleased to enjoy the day as
he proposed. He mounted me on a splendid horse
and taking another himself, we went along enjoying
the freshness and beauty of everything about us ex-
ceedingly. Presently Don Vicente said, " We will now
have a little fun and I want you to assist me. You see
among those cattle there a three-year-old cow. I select
her because she is the fleetest. Your horse is well
trained and will follow the movements of the game.
You must take care that he does not unsaddle you by
his quick movements. Now let us go for her ! "
We let the horses out and they immediately rushed
away, and in a few moments we lapped the cow, one
on either side. He leaned over and cauofht the creature
by the tail, and instantly she was turned over and over
toward me, and my horse, at the right moment, leaped
to one side to allow room for the animal's movements.
It was very exciting, and 1 shall never forget the ex-
hilaration of the chase and the leap made by the horse
to get out of her way when the creature was thrown.
I02 VERBAL PROMISES BINDING.
The native Californians were not naturally gam-
blers. I have seen some of the lower classes gamble
for small sums with cards, but have never known the
wealthy rancheros, or the higher class in towns, to in-
dulge in gambling, except on special occasions, like feast
days of the Saints or at a horse-race.
The merchants sold to the rancheros and other
Californians whatever goods they wanted, to any rea-
sonable amount, and gave them credit from one killing
season to another. I have never known of a single
instance in which a note or other written obligation was
required of them. At the time of purchasing they
were furnished with bills of the goods, which were
charged in the account books, and in all my intercourse
and experience in trade with them, extending over
many years, I never knew a case of dishonesty on
their part. They always kept their business engage-
ments, paid their bills promptly at the proper time in
hides and tallow, which were the currency of the coun-
try, and sometimes, though seldom, in money. They
regarded their verbal promise as binding and sacred,
relied upon their honor, and were always faithful. This
may be said of all their relations with others; they
were faithful in their promises and engagements of every
kind. They were too proud to condescend to do any-
thing mean or disgraceful, This honesty and inteo-rity
were eminently characteristic of these earlv Califor-
nians. As much cannot be saitl of some of their de-
scendants, who havfi become demoralized, and are not
like their ancestors in this rei^ard.
CHAPTER XVI.
Rank of the Mexican Civil Officers and their I'owers-Military Officers-Their
Duties-The Junta Departmental-Land Grants, Why and How Bestowed
-Officers appointed for San Francisco-How Justice was Admin.stered-
The C.overnor's Powers-The Alcaldes were Capable Qfficers-Their In-
signia of Office-Governor Alvarado-He is held in Esteem by the Foreign
Residents-General Castro as a Military Man-General Vallejo-His Cour-
tesy to Visitors and Strangers-A Sleep on a Cold Night without Blankets-
General Vallejo skilled as a Horseman, and expert with the Lasso -Allusion
to Don Pablo de la Guerra, Don Jose Antonio Carrillo, Mr. Alfred Robin-
son and Don Manuel Jimeno -Dona Augusta Jimeno, a High-sp.nted and
Patriotic Lady-Dona Ramona Wilson, a Lady of great HospitalUy.
At the head of the government of the department
of Cahfornia was, of course, the governor, who resided
at Monterey, then the seat of government. The next
officer hi rank was the prefect, whose position was
somewhat similar in rank to that of Heutenant-governor
at the present day, only he was much more of an exec-
utive officer. He resided at Monterey also. 1 hrough
him all orders emanating from the governor were issued
toofficers of lower rank^the sub-prefects-who pre-
sided over districts of considerable extent ; tor instance,
that in the vicinity of Verba Buena comprised ban V ran-
Cisco and Contra Costa, the hitter being the name of all
the country on the east side of the bay.
The alcaldes presided over the towns, and were
supervised by the sub-prefects. There was also a sec-
retary of state at Monterey, who was the in.mediate
counselor of the governor, generally a man ot educa-
I04 MEXICAN CIVIL OFFICERS.
tion and of more than ordinary ability. The com-
mander-in-chief of the forces of the department also
usually resided at Monterey, although in the case of
General Vallejo there was an exception, he residing at
Sonoma by permission of the supreme government of
Mexico.
The governor's cabinet consisted of the prefect, the
secretary of state and the commander-in-chief. The
oovernment was both civil and militarv in character.
The office of the prefect was of great importance. The
whole civil administration of affairs went through his
hands. His orders were issued to the various sub-pre-
fects of the department, and they in turn issued them
to the alcaldes. In matters of doubt concerning the
titles to pueblo lands and other questions which the
alcaldes were called to pass upon, the sub-prefects were
often consulted, and questions of importance referred
from the alcaldes to the prefect, through the sub-pre-
fects, and by him laid before the governor and cabinet
for final decisions.
There was also the junta departmental, compris-
ing seven members, which assembled at the seat of gov-
ernment once a year. The members were elected from
different sections of the department, and remained in ses-
sion each year from one to three months, according to the
business to be disposed of. The oldest of their num-
ber was made chairman or president of this assembly,
and held his office during its existence. The governor
of the department could idso preside over the assembly.
MILITARY OFFICERS I\ CALIFORNIA. IO5
This bcdy was largely occupied in passing upon
titles to lands which had been conveyed by the gov-
ernor to different persons, these grants being certified
by the secretary of state. The grants were generally
bestowed as a reward for services rendered the country
in a military capacity, though there were some excep-
tions where grants were given to other persons at the
option of the governor. He had full power to issue
these grants, subject to approval or disapproval by the
assembly. If they were approved, the title was consid-
ered perfect ; if not approved, the title was considered
inchoate, subject to further consideration and action by
the junta.
In case of the death of the governor, or other va-
cancy of his office the president of the junta depart-
mental became governor pro teni. until a new appoint-
ment was made by the supreme authority in Mexico.
I recollect of only one instance where the president of
the assembly became governor p7'0 Ion., and that was
on the occasion of the revolution against Governor
Micheltorena, when he was displaced, and Don Pio Pico
who was then president of the junta departmental, was
made provisional governor.
In 1834 or '35 an ayuntamiento, or town council,
was formed for San Francisco, consisting of one alcalde,
two regidores and a sindico, which body resided first at
the Presidio; afterwards at the Mission.
There were no regularly established courts in the
department at that time. The alcalde exercised the
I06 JURISDICTION OF CIVIL OFFICERS.
office of judge, jury, lawyers and all, inasmuch as no
lawyers were employed ; in fact there were none in the
department. The plaintiff and defendant simply ap-
peared before the alcalde, and stated their case on either
side, produced their witnesses, if they had any, and
the alcalde decided the case speedily ; generally on
the spot, without delay. I believ^e that more sub
stantial justice was done in this way than in the courts
ot the present day, with all their elaborate machinery
and prolonged course of proceedings. The alcalde
decided all cases of minor importance, and the penalty
for lesser crimes was fine or imprisonment. Cases of
more magnitude, like those of murder and other high
crimes, were brought before the gov^ernor and cabine
at Monterey, and their decision in the matter was final.
The governor had full power to condemn or discharge
a prisoner, or to pardon him after sentence. The fate
of the prisoner rested entirely in his hands. There was
no hanging in those days, but when a prisoner was con-
victed of a capital offense and condemned to death he
was shot by the military. Criminals, such as burglars,
horse thieves, cattle thieves, perpetrators of assaults,
were arrested by the sindico, and turned over to
the military commander of the post, if within con-
venient distance, otherwise to an alcalde's posse, and
imprisoned in the calaboose, and guarded by citizens
specially appointed by the alcalde for the occasion
until the time for examination or trial. These alcades
as a class were men of good, strong common sense, and
JUAN 13. ALVARADO. 10/
many of them had a fair education. As a rule they
were honest in their administration of justice and
sought to give every man his dues. I had occasion
to appear before them frequently in my business trans-
actions, with reference to hides that were not branded
according to law, and other matters. I always found
them ready upon a proper representation of the
case to do what was just to all concerned. The alcalde
was an important personage in the town. His insignia
of office consisted of a cane of light colored wood,
handsomely finished, and ornamented at the top with
silver or gold. Below the knob were holes in the cane,
through which was drawn black silk cord, attached to
tassels of the same material, hanging below. The al-
calde carried this staff on all occasions, and especially
when about to perform any official act, such as ordering
an arrest. Great respect and deference were paid
to the cane and its bearer by the people at large. He
was treated with great courtesy and politeness and
looked up to as a person of undisputed authority. The
administration of the governor and his cabinet, and of
the various sub-prefects, was just and satisfactory to the
people, and I have never known any instance to the
contrary.
Juan B. Alvarado, who was governor of California
when I came to this coast, was a native Californian.
His mother was a sister of General Vallejo. He was
educated at Monterey by an English iiistructtjr, W. E.
P. Hartnell. When (juite a young man, in: was clerk
io8
JUAN B, ALVARADO.
to Nathan Spear, then a merchant at Monterey. I
have frequently heard Spear speak in terms of the
warmest admiration of his honesty and great abihty.
Spear himself was well read and intelligent, and I have
heard him say that he took such an interest in young
Alvarado, as he called him, that he was in the habit of
imparting to him when in his employ a good deal of in-
formation about other countries and governments. Al-
varado, who had a thirst for knowledge, was an eage^*
listener, and received it gratefully ; for a considerable
portion of his acquirements he was indebted to Spear.
In his early life he was more or less connected with the
governing officials at Monterey, and then showed his
talent in that direction.
It was in 1836 or ' 2i7> I think, that Alvarado wrote
a letter to President Bustamente, then at the head of
the Republic of Mexico, about some governmental
matters connected with the department of California,
in which his ability was recognized by the president ;
for, shortly after this, he appointed Alvarado governor
of the department, which position he held until he was
superceded by Micheltorena in the latter part of '42.
In his administration of affairs he showed talent, and
was friendly to all foreigners. Spear and other well-
informed Americans often spoke highly of Alvarado's
military tact. Although not educated with a view to
military life at all, he seemed to have a natural apti-
tude for military tactics and remarkable ability for plan-
ning military movements.
CASTRO AND VALLKJO. IO9
Jose Castro, the second in command in the army,
was an educated miHtary man. Living at the head-
quarters of the government, he frequently consulted Al-
varado on important military matters, and relied largely
upon his opinions and advice. General Castro was a
man ot fair military ability, of excellent character, very
popular, and much liked by his countrymen.
General Vallejo was a more reserved man than Al-
varado. He was a native of California and lived con-
tinuously in Sonoma, with his family, attending- to his
immense herds of cattle and horses, and did not partic-
ipate in active movements in the field. He occasionally
visited Monterey, where his mother and nephew, the
governor, resided. He was hospitable, and received the
merchant traders on the coast at his fine mansion at
Sonoma and entertained them handsomely. He was
courteous to the higher class of foreigners, but had no
taste for the companionship of the rougher class, min-
ers, trappers and other adventurers whom he denomi-
nated "white Indians." In the month of December,
1839, Jacob P. Leese, who was a brother-in-law of
General Vallejo, Thomas Shaw, supercargo of the ship
" Monsoon," of Boston, and myself, crossed the bay to
Sonoma Landing in the schooner " Isabel," and ap-
peared at General Vallejo's house in the evening. We
were very cordially received, handsomely entertained at
dinner, and invited to pass the night, which we ilid. On
retiring we were shown to our several apartments ;
I found an elegant bed with beautifully trimmed and
no GENERAL VALLEJO.
embroidered sheets and coverlid and pillows ; but on
getting in to it I discovered there were no blankets, an
oversight of the servant, and as the whole house had
retired I could not arouse anybody to secure them, but
lay there shivering and shaking through the night,
wishing there were a little less elegance and a little
more comfort.
I saw General Vallejo in Sonoma many times. His
selection of horses for his own use was one of the finest
in the country, comprising a large number of beautiful
animals, well trained. I have seen him taking his
morning and evening ride on horseback (there were no
carriages in Sonoma at that time) and sitting on his
fine horse in the most natural and graceful manner.
He was considered skillful in the use of the lasso, and
also expert in the colliar, or catching the bull by the
tail and overturning him when going at full speed, as
before described. This was a favorite amusement
amongst the rancheros, and any one of them, though
he might be the possessor of many thousands of cattle
and horses, who was not fully up to the mark in the
skillful and daring maneuvers of using the lasso and in
colliar and other feats of that kind, was looked upon
as lacking in those accomplishments which were befit-
ting a genuine Californian.
General Vallejo received a school education under
the instruction of W. E. P. Hartnell at Monterey. Being
naturally fond of study, and appreciating the advan-
tages of education of a higher order, and having great
PABLO DE LA GUERRA. I I 1
ambition for learnino^, he has continued his studious
habits during his whole Hfe, gathering books here; and
there whenever opportunity offered, sometimes from
vessels coming to the coast, and if there were any special
books he wanted he would send to Mexico, to S[)ain,
to France, to England, to the United States, or to any
part of the world to procure them. Having accumu-
lated large wealth in his younger days he has always
gratified his tastes in that direction. In visiting him in
the earlier days I would find him in his library sur-
rounded by his books, in which he took the greatest
delight and pride. He illustrates in the best manner
the oft quoted phrase, " a gentleman and a scholar."
Don Pablo de la Guerra was a native Californian,
and a pupil and brother-in-law of Hartnell, the latter
having married one of the de la Guerra sisters. He was
a man fond of reading, an accomplished scholar, speak-
insf his own lancruasfe in the best manner, and also the
English fluently and correctly. He was in the gov-
ernment service, and in 1845 became Collector of the
Port. His father was Don Jose de la Guerra, a native
of Spain, who always resided at Santa Barbara, and
who married one of the Carillo family there. The four
brothers of the lady — Don Carlos, Anastacio, Domingo
and Jose Antonio Carillo — were each of them at least
six feet in height, weighing over 200 pounds, and finely
proportioned. Don Carlos was the leader in the revo-
lution against Governor Alvarado to displace hini in
1838.
112 ALFRED ROBINSON.
Don Jose Antonio resided at Los Angeles, and was
considered a leading man of talent in that part of the
country, being surpassed only by Alvarado in intellect.
During this revolution he was a most efficient worker
in the movement to place his brother Don Carlos in the
position of governor.
Don Pablo was a member of the first Constitutional
Convention in '49, and assisted greatly in the formation
of the constitution. He was several times elected to
the Senate, (State) representing Santa Barbara and
San Luis Obispo. He often presided over the Senate
in the absence of the regular officer, and was frequently
asked to become a candidate for governor of the State,
but declined.
Mr. Alfred Robinson, sometimes known as Don
Alfredo Robinson, who still lives in San Francisco,
married a sister of Don Pablo de la Guerra and of Dona
Augusta Jimeno. 1 never saw the lady, but she must
have been fine looking, coming, as she did, from a
handsome family. This wedding is described in
Dana's " Two Years Before the Mast."
Don Manuel Jimeno, who was secretary of state
under Alvarado, was a native of Mexico, and emiorated
to California when very young. He married one of Don
Pablo de la Guerra's sisters. Dona Augusta. He was
considered a man of learning and a statesman. I think
he held also the position of secretary of state under
Micheltorena. He was familiar with the laws of Mex-
ico which were in force in the department of California,
A PATRIOTIC LADY. I I 3
and filled the office with credit to himself and the de-
partment. His wife was an accomplished lady, \ery
entertaining in her conversation, overflowing with wit
and vivacity. I have frequently heard her, after the
change of the government to that of the United States,
express her utter disapprobation in the most sarcastic
language ; but she was so intelligent and her manner so
captivating, that the listener was overcome with ad-
miration of her brightness and the pungency and ap-
propriateness of her speech.
In a patriotic outburst, Sefiora Dona Augusta
Jimeno exclaimed one day that she would delight to
have the ears of the officers of the United States
squadron for a necklace, such was her hatred of the
new rulers of her country. But, with all this, it was
well known in Monterey that whenever an officer of
the army or navy was taken sick Mrs. Jimeno was the
first to visit the patient and bestow on him the known
kindness so characteristic of the native California
ladies, with encouraging words, and delicacies suitable
to his condition. This would show that she disliked
them as conquerors of her country, but respected them
as individuals. Some years after Mrs. Jimeno became
a widow, she married Dr. Ord of the United States
army.
Mariano Pacheco, the brother of the governor, was
with me for two years as clerk in Yerba Buena, in 1843
and '44.
8
114 DINING IN SANTA BARBARA.
Doiia Ramona. the mother of Governor Pacheco,
when I first knew her in 1838, at Santa Barbara, was a
handsome woman, queenly in her walk and bearing,
and among her countrywomen, who were noted for their
beauty, she was one of the most attractive. She is still
living, and I am told preserves her former fine appear-
ance. Her first husband. Don Francisco Pacheco, was
an accomplished musician, playing- the violin with great
skill and taste.
After the death of her first husband Mrs. Pacheco
married Captain John Wilson, an old Scotchman, and
lived at Santa Barbara. She was kind to all the mer-
chants who visited that port. In 1842 and '43 I was
at Santa Barbara as supercargo ot the " Don Quix-
ote," and often dined with her. Frequently when the
hour arrived, and I was not there, she would send a
servant round the town to find me, with the message,
"'Dona Ramona esta csperaiido a nstcd para la coniida!'
(Doiia Ramona is waiting dinner for you.) I would
sometimes tell her not to wait for me, that my business
might prevent me coming, and I could not be prompt
at her fine dinner, but she would always send for me.
Her kindness to me is among my pleasantest recollec-
tions.
CHAPTER XVII.
A I'osl erected at Verba Buena in 1841 by the Hudson's Bay. Company — Rae
occupies a Portion of the Building — Rae a Genial Man — A Particular (lame
of Cards — Favorite Games of the People — The Hudson's Bay Store as a
Place of Resort— A Wrestling Contest— Rae Vanquished— Rae heUl in much
Respect— Bob Ridley and his Doings — Brandy gets Ilim in the End — Rae
proves an Unfaithful Husband — Ends his Life by Suicide— A new Agent a
the Post, who closes out the Business to Melius & Howard.
The Hudson's Bay Company was a commercial cor-
poration existing under charter granted by Charles H. in
1670. During the first half of the present century it had
posts and stores for trade with Indians and trappers at
Astoria, Fort Vancouver and other points on the Colum-
bia. The head agent, residing at Vancouver, was given
the title of "governor." In 182 1 McLaughlin was ap-
pointed governor for the company of all the country in
the Oregon Territory west of the Rocky Mountains.
In the spring of 1S41 Governor McLaughlin
(who was a large man) and suite came from the Hud-
son's Bay Company's post, on the Columbia river, in the
bark "Cowlitz," to Verba Buena. for the purpose of es-
tablishing a post of the company at this point. The
governor was also called Dr. McLaughlin. He was
talkative and companionable. The four or five gentle-
men who accompanied him were also large men, of re-
finement, and appeared to be men of prominence. They
purchased a portion of a block of land, with a house,
from Jacob P. Leese, bounded by Montgomery street on
Il6 ONE OF THE EARLY HOUSES.
the west, Sacramento on the south, Clay on the north,
on the east coming near to the water mark of the bay.
They purchased four fifty varas, being two-thirds of the
whole block. The house was a laro-e wooden two-story
building, occupied by Leese and his family. The price
paid for the property was $4800, half in coin and half in
ofoods. The " Cowlitz " remained about two weeks at
Yerba Buena, and then the governor and his party lett
in her for Monterey, and proceeded thence to their
post on the Columbia river. The building was not given
up by Leese until the arrival of William G. Rae, son-in-
law of Dr. McLaughlin, from the Columbia river post,
with a large stock of goods in the "Cowlitz." He
opened the new post in September, 1841, and took
possession of the property. The goods were sent from
England to the Hudson's Bay Company's station on the
Columbia and then transhipped here, the vessel going
to Monterey to make entry at the Custom House. Rea
made use of the building for a store ; he kept a large
miscellaneous assortment of English goods, and the
company traded in the same way that other merchants
did on the coast, sendinQ; out their little launches and
schooners to collect hides and tallow about the bay, and
to deliver goods, and they did a good business until the
death of Rae in January, 1845. They had no large ves-
sels trading up and down the coast.
Rae was a Scotchman, tall and handsome, and
much of a gentleman. I became intimately acquainted
with him, and have played "whist "at his house many
RECREATIONS IN 1 84 I. II7
times until daylight. He was fond of this game, a skill-
ful player, and always selected me for his partner, as he
considered me a good player also. W^e sometimes bet
a rial (equivalent to twelve and a half cents) each on
the result of the game-never more than this sum —
which was bet in order to make the game more inter-
estinof.
One eveninof there were three sets of o-entlemen
playmg "whist" in Air. Rea's rooms, he and I being part-
ners as usual. During one of the games I saw by a
significant look from him that he had a poor hand, and
that he rather conceded the game to our opponents ; to
which I assented. As the game proceeded, I had only
two hearts in my hand, the ace and the king ; I delib-
erately threw away the king, which seemed to astonish
him, as I saw by a kind of dry smile on his counte-
nance. This trick was my partner's already, but as
I could not follow suit I played the king of hearts,
and thus enabled my partner to use his cards to ad-
vantage, and when hearts were played afterward my
low trum|)s secured other tricks, and the game
was decided in our favor. This greatly delighted
Rea, who expressed his unbounded satisfaction, and so
emphatically that all the playing in the room stopped,
and his enthusiasm created general hilarity. He said
to the other gentlemen that this movement of mine in
the game was one of the best conceived that he ever
witnessed, and complimented me highly for my skill.
If he had just made $10,000 by some lucky stroke of
business he could not have been more delighted.
Il8 A WRESTLING CONTEST.
The q^ames of "whist" and "twenty-one" were
favorite amusements of the people in those days, and
generally indulged in, there being no public amusements
of any kind. Rae had with him his wife, the daughter
of Governor McLaughlin, and two or three interesting
children.
The other third of the block containing the Hud-
son's Bay store was owned by John J. Vioget, a Swiss,
who lived there, and had a kind of public house, with
a billiard-room and bar, which at that time was the only
place of resort for the entertainment of captains, super-
cargoes, merchants and clerks of the town. He had
also occasional visitors from the ranchos whenever they
came to town to make their purchases and transact
business. Among these visitors was Don Jose Joaquin
Estudillo, of the San Leandro Rancho, also a large
man, but not so tall as Rea.
One day Rae, Estudillo and a number of others
happened to be at Vioget's house, w-hich was a sort of
exchange or meeting place for comparing notes on busi-
ness matters, talking over affairs in general. At the
same time a little amusement was perhaps indulged in.
Some were chatting, some smoking, some playing bill-
iards, and presently Rae challenged Estudillo to a con-
test at wrestling, to prove who was the best man. The
challenge was accepted, and they stood up facing each
other ; on the word being given they came together
and Rae was immediately thrown, to his great amaze-
ment. At the second trial he was thrown again, and
ROBERT RIDLEY. 1 I 9
this was repeated a tliird, fourth and a fifth time, until
Rae frankly acknowledged that his opponent was the
better wTestler, and he himself was fairly beaten. He
invited us to join him in a glass of wine.
Rae was much respected. He was liberal to those
less favored by circumstances than himself, frequently
giving little presents to persons who came to his store
of things most needed by them. His table was always
finely supplied with the best of everything, and he had
a generous sideboard and entertained a great deal ot
company. He and Spear were the chief entertainers.
There being no hotels at that time, the hospitalities of
the town devolved mostly upon these two gentlemen.
The captains, supercargoes and other strangers were
always welcome at Rae's house, and it was a pleasure
to him to entertain them. He had the true California
nature and feeling in this respect.
Rae had a clerk named Robert Ridley, who was a
regular English cockney, a good-looking fellow. He
married the daughter of Juana Briones, the first settler
at North Beach. He was singular and comical, and
was considered the funny man of the town. Everybody
knew him, and he was popular and liked by all. He
knew everyone's business, was the news-carrier and
gossip of the place, and was at home in every house.
He imagined he was a lady's man, and at times stirred
up a little excitement among the feminines. He was a
great teller of extravagant stories — a regular Mun-
chausen — and withal was considered the life and tun ot
the place.
I20 RAE S DEATH.
I met him one fine spring morning" between seven
and eight o'clock. '' Bill," said he, "how many i^o;^-
don Docks do you suppose I have taken already before
breakfast this morning?" "About a dozen," I an-
swered ; " your usual allowance." " I can discount
that," said he; "I have taken twenty-three!" — and he
was apparently sober at the time.
Rae told me the same day that two large decanters
filled with dark English brandy on the sideboard in his
dining-room had been emptied, and he accused Bob of
having drank the contents, which the latter acknowl-
edged having done, astonishing as it may seem. Like
most Englishmen, he was not easily affected by this
habit, and it was for a long time a question whether
King Brandy should rule or Bob ; but finally his strong
English constitution yielded to the superior authority
of the former, and poor Bob died more than twenty
years ago at the Mission Dolores.
The business of the Hudson's Bay Company's post
was quite successful up to January, 1845, when it was
discovered that Rae was unfaithful to his wife, having
succumbed to the fascinations of a California lady. Upon
this becoming public, Rae, who was a sensitive man, was
so overcome with mortification and disgrace that he shot
himself. After his death the British vice-consul, James
Alexander Forbes, took possession of the post, and was
instructed by the managers of the general post on the
Columbia river to close out the business of the company
at Yerba Buena as soon as practicable. This was done
RETIREMENT OE HUDSON'S BAY COMPAXV. I^I
in the course of a few months, and the land and house
sold to Melius & Howard for $5000, They afterward
opened a commercial establishment there, using the
building as a store, and in the winter of 1849-50 this
buildinor was converted into the United States Hotel,
which became a popular resort.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Commodore Wilkes and Fleet visit the Pacific Coast Waters in 1841 — A Survey of
the Sacramento River is made — Captain Sutter Visited — He Entertains the
Surveyors Bounteously — Commodore Wilkes as Gentleman and Officer —
General Vallejo visits Wilkes — He receives a Salute — The Commodore has
other Distinguished Visitors — The Commodore gives Interesting De-
scriptions of his Pacific Explorations — Interchange of Visits between the
Officers of the Fleet and of Fort Ross — The Fleet secures its Supplies from
Spear, which enables the Author to become Intimate with its Officers — A
Jolly Set — CDmmodore Wilkes is too Busy to I'articipate in the Current
Festivities — Spear and the Commodore become Intimate — Spear was the
First Merchant in Verba Buena — He is Profuse in his Praises of the
Country's Resources and Climatic Advantages to his Eastern Corres-
pondent — He Declines to become a Mexican Citizen — Visit of British War
Ships to the Bay — A Design Suspected of Prompting the Visit — Movements
that are watched by Commodore Wilkes.
In 1 84 1 the squadron in command of Commodore
Wilkes visited the Columbia river on an exploring- ex-
pedition, the fleet consisting of the United States sloop
of war " Vincennes," which was the flag ship, the sloop of
war "Peacock," commanded by Captain Hudson, and the
brig " Porpoise." In going into the Columbia, across
the bar, the "Peacock" was lost, and became a total
wreck, but the officers and crew were rescued and taken
on the two other vessels. Sailing thence, after the
completion of their work on the Columbia, the " Vin-
cennes " and "Porpoise" arrived in the bay of San
Francisco in July and anchored off Saucelito. Soon
after, the numerous boats of the vessels were prepared
for the survev of the Sacramento river. Commodore
^
COMMODORE WILKKS. 123
Wilkes headed the party, and they were engaged for
about two months in exploring that river and some of
its branches. During the survey they frequently visited
Captain Sutter, and I have often heard the officers
speak of his hospitality to them at his establishment on
the Sacramento. They also made some surveys of San
Francisco bav, remaining here until October.
Commodore Wilkes was not a man to impress a
stranger favorably at first sight, being rather severe
and forbidding in aspect, not genial and companionable,
and not popular with his officers, though they gave him
credit for being very thorough in his disci[)line and
duties, and there is no doubt he was a great explorer
and a thoroughly scientific man. He was an indefatiga-
ble worker and accomplished a great deal, but, unlike
other distinguished commanders who visited the coast,
he was not given to sociability and had no entertain-
ments on board his vessel ; although several were given
by his officers, who were a genial set, fond of enjoy-
ments. I partook of their hospitality on several occa-
sions, and had a very pleasant time.
Wilkes was visited by General V^allejo and his
brother Captain Salvador Vallejo, on board the " Vin-
cennes," and the general was received with a salute and
all the naval courtesies due to the commander-in-chief
of the forces of the departmcmt of California. He
was also visited by Governor Alexander Rotcheff, of the
Russian Fur Company at Fort Ross, and 1 afterward
heard Rotcheff say, when speaking of his visit to Wilkes,
124 VISITS OF NAVAL OFFICERS ASHORE.
that he took orreat interest in this exploring expedition.
In his visits to Spear, which he made frequently, he
told us with enthusiasm of his listeninQ; for hours to
Wilkes and his officers in their accounts of their visits
to the South Sea Islands and other parts of the globe,
and their descriptions of the habits, manners, character
and mode of life of the natives. Some of the officers
of the squadron visited Rotcheft"at Fort Ross, and were
handsomely entertained by him during their brief stay.
It was sixty or seventy miles from Saucelito to Fort
Ross, and to enable the officers to get there conven-
iently, Rotcheff sent down a number of his finest horses,
with a vaquero, to take them up, having adopted the
Spanish fashion of herding horses in capoueras, and
being well furnished with fine stock. He returned the
officers in the same way, after their visit. Some of
these navy officers also visited General Vallejo at So-
noma, and were entertained by him very agreeably.
The supplies for the ward-rooms of the two
vessels while in port, were obtained from Spear, and as
I was his active business man, I became well acquainted
with the officers. I found them fine fellows, full of life,
and ready for any enjoyment that came along. They
would sometimes send over a boat for supplies in
the morning, and address me a line, saying they
would be over in the evening, a dozen of them
or so. Meanwhile I would dispatch a boy out to my
friend Guerrero, the sub-prefect, at the Mission
Dolores, asking him to send me a dozen horses and
WILKES ESTEEM FOR STEAR. 125
saddles, which he would kindly do. If there were not
saddles enough, I made them up in town. When the
party arrived in town about dusk, the horses would be
ready, and mounting them, we rode out to Guerrero's
house. The young men and women in the neigh-
borhood were invited in, and we would have a little
dance, the party generally lasting till morning. The
young fellows from the ship enjoyed it highly after
their long life at sea.
Commodore Wilkes seldom came ashore at Yerba
Buena, being a very busy man, and when not engaged
in surveying outside, was industriously occupied on the
vessel in working out the results of his explorations and
surveys, and recording them.
Spear appreciated Wilkes' labors, and the commo-
dore took quite a liking to him and invited him to dine
on board the vessel several times, and they had several
interviews.' Spear had great respect and admiration for
the commodore, which was reciprocated by him, for
whenever he found a man who could understand and ap-
preciate his work, which was everything to him, he be-
came more affable and companionable than with others.
Wilkes more particularly esteemed Spear from the
fact that he was an American, and one of the first Amer-
ican settlers on the coast, having come here in 1 823 ; and
also from the fact that he had done a great deal through
his correspondence with friends in the east to inform the
United States government of the great resources and
future importance of California, describing minutely its
126 spear's eastern CORRESl'ONDENXE.
climate, soil, productions and commercial advantages.
His principal correspondent was his brother, Paul Spear,
a wealthy druggist of Boston, who communicated through
friends in Washington this information to the authori-
ties. Spear also predicted to me and others that at
some future time mineral discov^eries of importance
would be made here.
These efforts of Spear to make the advantages of
California known to the government, and his views and
opinions in regard thereto, greatly interested Wilkes,
and he commended him warmly for what he had done
in that direction. Spear was the first merchant who es-
tablished himself on shore in California, first at Mon-
terey, afterward with a branch at Yerba Buena, to
which place he went later himself.
Governor Alvarado, who felt very grateful to Spear
for the aid he had given him in his younger days, and
with whom he always maintained a cordial friendship,
often suggested to Spear that he should become a Mex-
ican citizen, and urged this upon him repeatedly, in or-
der that he might bestow upon him a grant of eleven
leagues of land, which was the extent allowed by law,
and which grant could only be made to a citizen of
Mexico, and he assured him that he would be most
happy to do this if Spear would only comply with his
suggestion ; but Spear persistently refused to renounce
his allegiance to his own country, which he honored and
loved too much to wish to change his nationality, even
for so tempting an offer, although many Americans and
WILKES OBSERVATIONS. 127
Other foreigners had done so for the purpose of ob-
taining grants of land from the Mexican Lrovernnicnt.
During their friendly intercourse the governor would
sometimes say to Spear, " Don Natan, it is only a ques-
tion of time when this country will belong to your gov-
ernment. I regret this, but such is undoubtedly the
ruling of Providence ; " or something to that effect.
Spear told me that in his conversations with
Wilkes, in visiting him on the vessel, the commodore
expressed himself repeatedly as more than delighted
with the bay of San Francisco and the Sacramento ri\er,
and said there was no question as to the future great-
ness and importance which would ensue when the bay
and the other commercial advantages of this territory
were av^aiied of. He said also that California would
surely belong to our government at some time in the
future. It was understood, and was, in fact, stated by
Wilkes to Spear, that the chief object of his visit to
California was to obtain and report accurate information
in regard to the bay of San Francisco to the govern-
m.ent at Washington, with a view of future acquisition.
Wilkes, on being informed that Mofras had been
the guest of Spear while stopping at Yerba Buena,
was greatly interested, and inquired carefully and par-
ticularly about Mofras' visit to California, asking Spear
for all the details of his movements here and his con-
versations. He was particularly anxious to know if
Mofras ever divulo^ed that the French ofovernment had
any designs or intentions in regard to the bay of San
Francisco.
128 A BRITISH WAR VESSEL IN PORT.
In my visits to the officers of the vessels the con-
versation in the ward-room would frequently turn upon
the bay of San Francisco, and they often declared their
admiration, and said that in all their visits to other
parts of the world they had seen nothing to equal it.
The more they became conversant with it in their
surveys the more they were impressed with its import-
tance, and they would sometimes exclaim, " This is
ours !" referring to the future, when the United States
government should hold possession of this part of the
country.
During my early residence here British men-of-
war came to the coast and to the bay of San Francisco
about once a year or so, remaining two or three weeks
at a time, touching also at Monterey, and sometimes
going north to visit the British possessions. They
generally landed at Saucelito, at which point they re-
plenished their supplies to some extent. Captain Rich-
ardson, the owner of Saucelito Rancho, an English-
man, was a social man and very obliging, and he made
it pleasant for them to go there. He supplied them
with wood from his ranch, also beef, and allowed them
to procure water from the springs on his place. It
was the impression among the foreign residents here,
especially the Americans, that these visits of British
government vessels had some significance ; that they
called here under instructions from the British govern-
ment, to observe in a quiet way, the bay, the surround-
ing country, its facilities, the people, the probable re-
ENGLISH DESIGNS. I 29
sources of Ccilifornia, and to note whatever was going
on, with some view to the future possibility of Eng-
land's obtaining possession. American men-of-war
came here more frequently, in the same way, and
stopped several weeks at a time. In fact, there was
nearly always a United States government vessel either
at Yerba Buena or Monterey, or somewhere in the
neighborhood, often more than one, up tothe time when
the country came into our possession.
It was the impression then, and doubtless the fact,
that the American war vessels were sent for the purpose
of keeping an eye on the vessels of other nations,
particularly the British, as bearing upon the future
of California ; and in my intercourse with the com-
manders and officers of the United States Qroveinment
vessels, they expressed to me their suspicion or fear
that the English had designs upon the country, and the
hope that they would not be permitted to anticipate any
movements our own government might contemplate, and
Qfet ahead of us in securinof an advantaofe in California.
In Spear's interviews with Wilkes when he visited
him on board the "Vincennes," the commodore freely
conversed with him about the future of the Pacific
coast, and stated that the British government was the
only power which the United States had cause to feel
any concern about in reference to California, and said
further, that the United States squadron in the Pacific
was specially instructed to keep an eye on the move-
ments of the British vessels of war in this ocean, with
9
130 MASON AND SLIDELL.
a view of intercepting any movement that they might
make looking toward securing possession of California,
The commodore at this time showed that he had no
special liking for the English, as was subsequently
evinced in his memorable capture of Mason and Slidell
from a British vessel durinfj our civil war. In one of
his conversations with Spear he said, with that frank-
ness and freedom from reserve which characterized his
speech with those in whom he felt confidence, "These
Britishers shall never get possession of California. Our
government is constantly on the alert to prevent any
such design. We are their equal, and a little more, as
has been proved in the past." This greatly delighted
Spear, who was a thorough American, and longed to
have the country come under the American flag. Wilkes
also informed Spear that our consul at Monterey
was specially instructed by the government authorities
at Washington, through the secretary of state, to con-
stantly advise the government of all the movements
of the English on this coast.
During the visit of Wilkes' squadron to the Eiji
Islands, prior to coming to California, a chief of high
rank had been taken captive in one of the fights
which frequently occurred between the different tribes.
The chief was held by his captors for ransom. Wilkes
being desirous of securing a Fijian to take home with
him, paid the ransom in presents of such articles as he
had on board his vessel to the captors, who thereupon
released their prisoner, and Wilkes took him on board
A FIJIAN CHIEF. I3I
his vessel and brought him to Cahfornia. He was a
thorough savage and cannibal. In my visits to the
" Vincennes" I frequently saw him. He was confined
in a room of good size, in the forepart of the vessel,
constantly guarded by a marine. He was a man of
large and powerful frame, with rather a square counte-
nance, and a cunning look in his eyes, but not ferocious
in his appearance and manner. He was very dark in
his complexion, something between a negro and a
malay, and had a heavy head of hair, looking like an
immense bunch of oakum — -probably two feet in
diameter from side to side, and a foot high from the
top of his head, giving him a very singular appearance.
He seemed to regard this hair as sacredly as the
Chinese do their pigtails, and when the officers of the
vessel suggested that some of it be clipped off, for the
benefit of his health, he begged most piteously, with
tears in his eyes, that they would not touch it, saying
he would rather die, or submit to any torture or disgrace,
than be deprived of it. When first taken he was of great
size, weighing probably 250 pounds, but while impris-
oned on the vessel he had become reduced to about 200.
I once went into his place of confinement, and saluted
him, and shook hands with him. He returned the salute
with a kind of nod, showing some appreciation of the
attention paid him. He was carefully and kindly pro-
vided for; everything was done that could be for his
health and comfort, as the commodore was desirous of
getting him to Washington ; but his confinement wore
132 WILLIAM A. RICHARDSON.
upon him ; he was impatient and uneasy, and I subse-
quently learned that he died on the voyage eastward
after the vessel left here.
Captain Richardson repeated to Commodore Wilkes
the tradition of the old Indian Monica with regard to
Golden Gate at one time having been closed, and sub-
sequently rent apart by some great convulsion of nature,
making an outlet for the waters of the bay through
to the ocean, and Wilkes became greatly interested
in the matter. With some of his scientific corps, to-
gether with Captain Richardson, he went out to the
Golden Gate in one of his boats to carefully observe
the two points on either side ; having become famil-
iar with the bay in their surveys, which extended as far
up as Alviso and the surrounding country, they could
form an intelligent opinion in the matter. They said
they thought it probable that the story of the old Ind-
ian was correct, and that the bay once found an outlet
through the San Jose valley into Monterey bay. The
botanist of the party, with whom I was quite intimate,
particularly expressed his belief in the correctness of
this theory or tradition. The commodore was so inter-
ested in the matter that he had the old Indian Monica
brought on board his vessel by Captain Richardson,
and questioned him closely all about it himself. Monica
was treated with great courtesy on this occasion and
was shown all over the vessel. The Fiji captive was
also exhibited to him, and he regarded him with much
interest and curiosity, especially as Captain Richardson
DR. OLIVER WENDELL HOLMES. I 33
explained to him that in his own country he was a great
fighter ; that after a battle between the different tribes
the bodies of the slain were taken by the victors and
devoured as a grand feast.
Commodore Wilkes had with him a full scientific
corps, all the various departments covered by the ex-
pedition being represented, and in the ablest manner.
Probably there never was sent out by the government
a more thoroughly skilled and learned set of men. The
regular officers of the vessels also were very well fitted
for their work, highly capable, and were of great aid to
the commodore in his labors. The first surgeon of the
fleet, Dr. Holmes, I discovered in conversation was a
distant relative of mine. When I told him of my grand-
father and other relatives in Massachusetts I was treated
with great attention. Doctor Oliver Wendell Holmes,
the author, is of the same family, and was named after
my grandfather, Oliver.
Captain Richardson who had come here in 1823,
was much liked by Wilkes, though an Englishman, in-
asmuch as he was a thorough sailor and pilot, and well
acquainted with the bay of San Francisco, and he was
also an agreeable and obliging gentleman. He gave
Wilkes a good deal of information about different parts
of the bay, indicated points for examination and survey,
and his suggestions were of aid to Wilkes and were
found by him of much value. When the commodore was
about to leave the bay of San Francisco for Monterey,
he requested Richardson to pilot the vessel out to sea.
134 ACCIDENT ON BOARD THE FLAG-SHIP.
Richardson advised him not to leave on the day ap-
pointed, as there had been a strong south-east wind
blowing, the bar was very rough, breaking almost
across, and he thought it too hazardous. The commo-
dore being of a very determined nature — headstrong,
as Richardson expressed it — was not easily changed
from his purpose when he had once made up his mind
to anything. He said he would go nevertheless, and
asked Richardson to be on board at a certain hour.
The vessels accordingly started, but on nearing the bar
it was decided to come to anchor just inside, which they
did. During their stay there, the swell of the sea swept
over the " Vincennes," and broke loose and set in motion
some spars on the upper deck, which killed two of the
marines on board.
CHAPTER XIX.
Captain Eliab Grimes — The Mexican Government has no Revenue Cutters to pre-
vent Otter Hunting — Captain Bancroft presumes too much upon the forbear-
ance of his Alaskan Hunters — Reprimands them Severely and Loses his Life
— The Hunters are Racified — The Mate takes the Vessel to Alaska — Dis-
charges the Hunters and proceeds to Honolulu — A British ship Arrives
in San Francisco Bay on a Surveying Expedition — The result of the
Captain's Labors is kept Secret — The Object Apparent — Captain Wm. A.
Leidesdorff comes to California in 1841, in the Schooner " Juliann "' —
The Author becomes Supercargo of the "Don (Quixote," Captain J
the offenders pursued their profitable occupation with-
out interference. In 1837 the government of the de-
. partment of California bought of Captain John Paty a
schooner of about a hundred tons, named the " Califor-
nia," but she was not fitted for revenue-cutter service,
having only one or two small guns, and she was used
chiefly to carry dispatches bi^tween Monterey and Maz-
atlan and San Bias, in communication between the de-
partment of California and the supreme government at
Mexico. Captain Bancroft married at Honolulu in
1836, and on the last voyage he ever made, in 1S39,
he was accompanied by his wife. In the summer of
that year, the brig was lying at anchor at the Island of
Santa Cruz, off Santa Barbara ; one day the Indians re-
turning in their canoes from the hunt, towards evening,
collected around the vessel, and Captain Bancroft
spoke to them from the deck in their own language,
CAPTAIN BANCROFT SHOT BY INDIANS. 1 37
and inquired about their success for the day. Their
report did not satisfy him, as they had not obtained the
usual number of otters, and he began to talk severely
to them, reprimanding them for their ill success, thinking
he could say what he pleased to them. Upon this, they
rushed on board the vessel in large numbers, pointing at
him their loaded rifles with which they killed the otter,
in the use of which they were expert, and commenced
firing. He fell upon the deck. Meanwhile, his wife, who
was in the cabin, and who always had more or less dread
of these Indians, hearing the tumult above, hastened up ;
seeing her husband lying bleeding on the quarter-deck,
and the Indians around him, she flew to the spot and
fell upon him, covering his body completely with her own
to protect him from his assailants. The assault con-
tinued, and she was severely wounded. Captain Ban-
croft died on the spot. The natives were quieted after
a time, when the mate took command of the vessel, and
returned them to Alaska. He then sailed for the
Islands with Mrs. Bancroft and the body of her hus-
band, which was preserved, for burial at Honolulu.
She survived bL\t a few weeks after reaching her home,
though attended by the best medical skill. Her life
might have been saved had she consented to submit to
a surgical operation which was proposed, but she de-
clined to have it performed. After the tragic death of
her husband she had no desire to live.
In the spring of 1839 there arrived in the bay ot
San Francisco from British Columbia a British vessel
138 WILLIAM A. LEIDESDORFF.
of war, Captain Belcher, which anchored east of Yerba
Buena. She was on an exploring expedition in the
Pacific Ocean. Soon after the vessel dropped anchor
Captain Belcher came ashore, accompanied by some of
his officers, and called at Spear's store and also at
Jacob P. Leese's residence. Captain Belcher stated to
Mr. Spear that he would remain in the bay a few weeks
and make some surveys of our miniature inland sea and
the Sacramento river. The work of the ship while in
the bay was never made known to anyone here, at the
tune, to my knowledge. She remained at Yerba Buena
but twenty-four hours, and then departed for Saucelito,
where she was anchored during the work of her boats
around the bay and on the Sacramento river. Captain
Richardson, owner of the Saucelito rancho, said but
little or nothing in regard to Captain Belcher's visit and
his surveys of the bay and rivers.
At this early period, and several years before
Wilke's exploring expedition, it would seem that Eng-
land had her attention directed to the value and im-
portance of the bay of San Francisco from its geograph-
ical position as the commercial center of the Pacific
Ocean trade in the future.
The schooner " Juliann," Captain William A. Leides-
dorff, who is well known in the history of San Francisco,
left New York about January, 1841, for the coast of
California through the Straits of Magellan. J. C. Jones,
former United States consul at Honolulu, who owned
the schooner, left New York sometime afterward in a
VOYAGE TIIROUC.H THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN. I 39
sailing vessel to meet the " Juliann " at Panama. He
proceeded to the Isthmus on the Atlantic side, crossed
to Panama, and expected to find the vessel there on his
arrival, but was compelled to wait sixty days before she
appeared.
During her passage through the Straits she en-
countered many delays and perils, having almost con-
stant head-winds, and being in great dread of the Ind-
ians, who were cannibals and who swarmed about the
vessel in their canoes, a little distance off, apparently
waiting an opportunity to pounce upon the schooner and
capture all on board. A constant watch was therefore
kept up to prevent such a calamity. They finally
got through the Straits, and were greatly relieved to
findthemselves beyond the reach of the savages. They
arrived at Panama just as Jones was about chartering
another vessel to take him up the coast, thinking
his own must be lost. Robert G. Davis, a brother of
mine, was a passenger on board the schooner ; also John
Weed, of a very wealthy family of New York, who took
the voyage for the benefit of his health. My brother
had a stock of merchandise aboard for sale on the
coast. She arrived at Monterey in June, 1841. This
was Leidesdorff's first visit here.
In January, 1842, I left Nathan Spear and took
passage on the ship " Alert," Captain Phelps, to Monte-
rey, and there found the bark " Don Quixote," Captain
John Paty, and I made arrangements with him to be-
come supercargo of that vessel, and at once assumed
140 SUPERCARGO OF THE "DON QUIXOTE."
that position. We came to Yerba Buena, remained
here a few weeks, trading around the bay, and I made
very successful sales and collections for Paty. On leav-
ing here we proceeded to Monterey. About the last of
February we sailed from there for Honolulu with a cargo
of hides and otter and beaver skins, which we disposed
of on reaching there, and purchased a full cargo of
goods for the market of California.
These goods had been brought principally from
Boston and New York, and some from England, France
and Germany. There was only five per cent, duty on
foreign goods imported into the Islands in those days,
and Honolulu was a kind of depot or central point
where the ships brought their goods from different parts
of the world, and they were sold there and sent out to
supply the whole western coast of America, going to
various points in California, the Columbia river, the
British and Russian possessions north, and also to Mex-
ican ports.
CHAPTER XX.
The "Don Quixote" returns to San Francisco, and becomes a Coast Trader —
A Misunderstanding with the Customs Officers — Smuggling Operations Dis-
covered but not Reported — Escape from the Surveillance of the Sub-Prefect
— A Profitable Night's Work — Explanation why the Merchants at one time
Violated the Mexican Revenue Laws — Clever Tricks to avoid the Customs
Taxes— The First Steam Saw Mill— It is Located in the Bodego Lumber
Region — A New Firm Established at San Diego — The Author leaves the
"Don Quixote," and becomes an Agent of the Firm at Verba Buena —
Business Lively.
The " Don Quixote" left Honolulu on the 31st of
May and returned to this coast, entered at Monterey,
and traded along the coast for the remainder of the
year; and she left Santa Barbara, returning to Honolulu,
in February, 1843 > sailing thence, she arrived at Verba
Buena on the 20th of May.
On this voyage also we brought to port a full cargo
of merchandise Immediately the sub-prefect came on
board and ordered us to Monterey for entry. I knew
the sub-prefect well, and told him the tide would not ad-
mit of our leaving till the next day. He then placed a
guard upon the vessel to remain with us until we left the
port, not a regular custom house officer, but a citizen
selected by him for this special duty. We had a
purpose in coming to Verba Buena first. The duties
on goods imported into California were very high at
that time, and this was a great temptation to merchants
trading on the coast to avoid them as far as possible.
The invoice cost of our cargro at Honolulu was $20,000,
14^ AN OBLIGING CUSTOMS OFFICER.
and the duties would have amounted to nearly or quite
as much, averaging" about loo per cent. While the
merchants and captains trading on the coast desired to
keep on friendly terms with the Mexican government,
and had no thought or intention of opposing it in any
way, at the same time they did not entertain so much
affection for it as to induce them to contribute to its
revenues any more than they could well avoid, and so
whenever they saw an opportunity to outwit the custom
house authorities they availed of it.
Soon after the guard was placed on board, one of
us who knew him very well, approached him and told
him we were going to lock him up in a state room.
"What?" said he in surprise; "What's the matter ?"
We laughed, and told him not to be alarmed, and he
soon understood, apparently, what we were aiming at.
He was told that he could have his supper and could
take his smoke, and then go into the state-room, where
he would find a nice bed, a bottle of Madeira, a bottle
of aguardiente, cigars, and everything to make him
comfortable, and that the door would be locked and the
key taken away, and he was to go to sleep and take it
easy, and in the morning he would be let out and given
$20 in gold. " Don't say any more," he replied ; " that's
enough."
Accordingly, after finishing his supper and his cigar,
he went into the state-room, as desired, the door was
locked and the kev laid aside, and nothing further was
heard from him till the next morning. We put on all
EXIIORBITANT IMPORT DUTIES. 1 43
the boats and men, and during the night worked indus-
triously and landed about half our cargo, all the more
valuable goods — silks, etc., on which the duty was the
highest, and a large quantity of sugar. The tide favored
us, and we put the goods on the beach near Spear's store,
and the men rolled them in. We ceased oiu* labors
about four o'clock in the morning, well satisfied with our
night's work.
There was another vessel in the harbor, the ship
"Admittance," of Boston, Captain Peterson, Henry
Melius supercargo, afterward of the firm of Melius &
Howard. We muffled our oars in order not to attract
■ the attention of the officers and crew of that vessel, but
our movements were observed by them, as they informed
us sometime afterward. We had, however, no fear of
them, for we knew they would not report us, as they
might sometime themselves be engaged in similar busi-
ness, and they were interested in keeping quiet. The
penalties for smuggling were very severe under the
Mexican law — death in some cases. W^e left on the
following day for Monterey, to enter the remainder of
the cargo, first recompensing our guard, as promised,
and putting him ashore, and on reaching the port of
entry we duly entered the goods on board and paid the
duties, to the satisfaction of the custom house, having
saved a handsome sum by our night's operations, con-
cerning which no suspicion was ever created in the minds
of the sub- prefect or custom house officers.
144 EXHORBITANT IMPORT DUTIES.
I propose to say something in regard to the evasion
of the revenue laws of Mexico by the merchants of Cal-
ifornia in early clays, in order that the matter may be
fully understood and regarded in its true light ; to show
that those who were transgressors of the law in this re-
spect were not considered as law-breakers in any odious
sense, but were in entire good standing in the commu-
nity, and were, to a certain extent, benefiting the people
and doing a service to the country.
In entering goods at the custom, house, the
revenue officers did not require any oath from the mer-
chants as to the correctness of the invoices presented
by them ; in fact, no oath of any kind was required of '
them ; and the practice was to prepare fictitious in-
voices, and pay $10,000 instead of $40,000, on a
cargo of the value of the last named sum. The
duties on goods imported from foreign countries were
very high, averaging about 100 per cent., as previously
stated ; so that a cargo of miscellaneous goods costing
in Boston $50,000 would be subject to duties of about
the same amount on entering at the custom house, mak-
ing $100,000, to which must be added, as a legitimate
part of the cost of the goods, various expenses, such as
the cost of the voyage from Boston to this coast and
back, including the stay of the vessel here and her
sailing up and down the coast (about three years being
consumed in the whole voyage from Boston out and re-
turn), the wear and tear of the vessel, the wages of the
crew, the pay of the officers, the commission of the
MEXICAN CUSTOMS DUES EVADED. 1 45
supercargo, the supplies of the ship in provisions, the
cost of purchasing and collecting hides and tallow and
preparing the hides for the return voyage, the long
credit given to the rancheros and other purchasers of
goods, besides the numberless other expenses, little and
great, all immediately or remotely connected with the
expedition ; and also the interest on the capital invested ;
all together making the cost of the business very heavy.
These expenses were to be reimbursed from the
profits arising from the exchange here, for hides, of the
cargo from Boston and the sale of the hides there. In
order to make this profitable the merchants found it nec-
essary to evade the payment of duties to the Mexican
government so far as practicable, and these duties were
evaded to a very considerable extent, probably one-half.
Had the shipper been compelled, under a more
stringent administration of the law, to pay the full
amount of duties, he could not have made a fair profit
out of the business. Moreover, he would have been
compelled to charge so high a price for his goods that
it v^ould have been a severe tax upon the rancheros
who required them.
It will be seen, therefore, that not only was the
temptation to smuggle very great, under the facilities
presented by a loose administration of the revenue laws,
but there w^ere excellent reasons why the payment of
duties should be evaded. They operated to such an
extent that the merchant did not feel under that moral
restraint, especially in the absence of the oath, which
10
146 MEXICAN CUSTOMS DUES EVADED.
under other circumstances he might have experienced.
If he defrauded the government, he was helping the
people.
It would not have been good policy to crowd or
cripple the farmers by making them pay exorbitant
prices for their goods. This would have reacted upon
the merchants and been injurious to the department.
To give a higher price for his goods, on account of the
larger duties paid by the merchant, the farmer would
have been compelled to slaughter a larger number of
cattle to secure the requisite quantity of hides and tal-
low to pay for them, thereby subtracting so much more
from his wealth and the wealth of the department. The
merchants, therefore, not only benefited themselves by
this evasion of the duties, but, to a greater or less ex-
tent, protected the farmer at the same tinie. Although
I never knew an instance of the bribery of an official
by a merchant, yet the officers of the revenue must have
had in their own minds an idea that the customs laws
were evaded.
The relations of the officials and the merchants
were very pleasant. They associated together in the
most friendly manner. The merchants always made it
agreeable for the officials whenever they came aboard
the vessels, treating them courteously and hospitably.
The hieh rate of duties was sometimes alluded to, when
the officers would smilingly say that they themselves
considered the duties as very high. They would add
that they presumed the government of Mexico knew
MEXICAN CUSTOMS DUES EVADED. I47
what it was about when it fixed the rates. I have heard
them admit that if the duties had been lower the gov-
ernment would probably have secured more revenue.
Although I don't mean to intimate that they connived
with the merchants knowingly to defraud the govern-
ment, yet they certainly were not very sharpsighted or
severe in the discharge of their vocation. However,
had they been ever so vigilant and desirous of rigidly
enforcing the laws, they were really powerless to do so
efficiently, for they had no detectives, no revenue cut-
ters — none of those numerous aids and facilities for
detecting the offender against the laws which prevail in
these latter days.
It was then considered as no disgrace for a mer-
chant to evade the revenue laws to such an extent as
he thought proper to take the risk ; some doing so
more than others ; although it was never talked about
among the merchants themselves, or made public in
any way. There was a kind of tacit understanding
that this was the general custom, and it was all right
and proper to get as many goods in free of duty as pos-
sible, and it was encouraged by the rancheros them-
selves, as many were not solicitous of assisting the
remote general government at Mexico by payment of
exhorbitant taxes in duties upon the necessaries of life
required by them. Had the merchant been compelled
to make oath, it would have been respected. The mer-
chants, who were all foreigners, were an honorable and
high-minded set of men, and would not have per-
jured themselves to evade the duties.
148 MEXICAN CUSTOMS DUES EVADED.
A large amount of goods could easily be concealed
in the lining of a vessel, or a false lining be built, at
no great expense around the sides of the ship, behind
which they could be stowed away. There were
numerous other hiding places which could be availed
of. The captain, with the aid of the mates and the
ship's carpenter, could make whatever arrangements
or alterations were necessary to successfully con-
ceal a large amount of goods. When the vessel
reached the port of entry, the customs officers would go
through the formality of making an examination of the
ship ; but they did it in quite a superficial way. They
were so exceedingly well-mannered that they did not
wish to appear impolite, and so they did not make any
critical and offensive scrutiny of the arrangements
and contents of the vessel. Portions of the cargoes of
vessels trading from South America and the Sandwich
Islands were sometimes deposited upon the Islands off
Santa Barbara, when the vessels approached the coast,
before coming to the port of entry. I know of one in-
stance in which about two-thirds of the cargo of a
vessel from Honolulu was landed upon the Island of
Saint Nicolas, about seventy miles south-east of Santa
Barbara, after which the vessel entered at the custom
house, paid the duties on the remainder of the cargo,
and then returned to the Island and took in the portion
she had left there. She then went on her way, trading
about the coast as usual. Invoices also were arranged
to suit the plans of the merchants. Goods were some-
A STEAM SAW-MILL OPERATED IN 1 843. 1 49
times landed at night at Yerba Buena and other points
outside of the port of entry, and at the port of entry
itself, by eluding the officers, before entry was made.
The rancheros, in a general way, would hint to the
merchants that they ought to smuggle all the goods
they could ; they knowing they would get what they
purchased cheaper than if all the duties were paid.
At Monterey we found the Baltimore bark
" George and Henry," captain Stephen Smith, which
had arrived a few days before from Callao, and had on
board a steam saw-mill, the first ever brought to this
coast. It was set in operation in the woods near
Bodega for sawing lumber. Smith had visited Cali-
fornia in 1 84 1 and purchased of Captain Sutter all his
title and interest in Bodega, and also bought, for work
of the mill, the rancho Blucher, near Bodega, covered
with timber, mostly redwood.
In a few weeks we came to Yerba Buena, (our
vessel, after having made entry and paid duties at the
custom house, being free to go anywhere on coast trade)
and took on board in the daytime and openly what we
had secretly landed on the night of the 20th of May,
transporting small lots at a time. This created no
suspicion, as Spear, having a large stock of goods on hand
at his store, might be supposed to be shipping a quantity
of them down the coast. We left again, and traded along
the coast as far as San Diego. There a new firm was
formed, that of Paty, McKinlay & Co., for general
trading purposes, consisting of Captain John Paty, ot
150 LARGE MERCANTILE TRANSACTIONS IN I 845.
the vessel, James McKinlay and Henry D. Fitch. The
vessel went in as a part of the stock of the concern,
being still under the command of Captain Paty. We
then returned to Yerba Buena, after having touched at
intermediate ports, and taking on at San Pedro some
cargo belonging to McKinlay & Fitch, which came into
general stock. On reaching Yerba Buena, we landed
about half the cargo of the vessel at Richardson's old
adobe building, which stood where Dupont street is
now, between Clay and Washington, and was then
owned by McKinlay, he having bought it of Richard-
son a few years previous. I then quit the vessel, Mr.
McKinlay taking my place as supercargo, while I re-
mained at Yerba Buena with the goods, as commercial
agent of the firm. I did a large business for them
until September, 1845, the vessel meanwhile trading
along the coast, visiting the bay of San Francisco three
or four times during this period to supply me with
stock from the stores on board.
CHAPTER XXI.
The American Occupation of Monterey in 1842, by Commotlore Jones — A
Graphic Description of the Capture — A Mistake — Relincpiishment of the
City — The Commodore's Action Sustained by the Government — A Mexican
Vessel brought to by a Shot across her Bow-- Flying False Colors — A Sur-
render — Lady Prisoners of War — The Author's Wife was One of Two— She
Describes the Situation — Surrender of Monterey — A Wail in the Town —
Commodore Jones gives to the People Assurances of Protection to Life and
Property — A Pleasant Interview with the Commodore — He Relates the Story
of his Proceedings at Monterey — The Great Responsibility he Felt led to His
Mistake — Glad there was no Occasion for Hostilities — Favorably Imqiressed
with California — Proud of being the First to raise the American Hag over the
Soil — Felt Assured the Country would Some Day pass into American
Possession.
One of the most interesting events in the history
of California was the first taking of Monterey by Com-
modore Jones, in 1842. The following account has
been kindly offered for my use by Mr. S. S. Culver-
well, who was a participant in that affair, and who
now resides in San Francisco.
Culverwell's Story of Tin-: Capture.
About August, 1842, the- American squadron,
under Commodore A. Jones, was lying at Callao, Peru.
I was on board the fricjate " United States." The
sloop of war " Cyane," Captain Stringham, was near
by. Commodore Jones was on the " United States,"
also Captain Armstrong, P"irst Lieutenant Lardner and
Surgeon Maxwell, who recently died in San Francisco.
There was also a British squadron in the harbor ot
Callao, of which I think the "Vanguard" was the ad-
miral's ship. It was understood among the shii)'s com-
152 COMMODORE JONES AT MONTEREY.
pany that we were to sail soon, as everything was in
readiness for departure at short notice, but to what
point we were destined nobody knew. It seemed to
be the opinion, and was generally understood, that our
sailing depended upon the movements of the British
fleet, which was very closely watched by our vessels.
One evening there was a ball given on the admiral's
ship, at which the officers of our vessels were present,
and on that occasion they learned that the English
were to sail the next morning, but their destination was
a secret. By this our own movements were guided ; for
early the next morning we were under way, bound for
Monterey, California. During the whole passage, the
ship's company was exercised in practicing the guns
and apparently preparing for something extraordinary.
It leaked out in a few days that the commodore's in-
structions were to keep watch of the British fleet, and,
if anything should occur which looked suspicious, he
was to get ahead, and take possession of Monterey.
When we reached the bay of Monterey, the
" Cyane" and the " United States" came to anchor op-
posite the fort, and the same afternoon the commodore
sent a message ashore to the alcalde or governor to
surrender the place. The answer was returned that he
was not in town. The ships' crews were at quarters on
board all night. I was a boy of sixteen at that time —
a powder boy, stationed in what was called the
"slaughter house," just abreast of the main mast. I
reniember the remarks made by the old salts on the
night we were lying there at our moorings, looking up
at lights in the fort and seeing men with lanterns run-
ning arc'und here and there. The sailors surmised
that any moment the guns of the fort might open fire
upon us, and if they had done so, the general impres-
sion was that they would have given us a pretty lively
shaking up. The gunners on board our vessel said the
first time their guns were let loose we would catch the
whole of them just where we stood in the " slaughter
house," and that one gun in the fort would do us more
COMPLETING HIS CRUISE. 1 53
damage than our whole broadside of twenty-six guns
could do them. The crews of both our vessels were at
the guns all night to be ready for action, and our offi-
cers were watching intently the movements at the castle
or fort. If any demonstration had been made, both
ships would have opened fire immediately. The night
passed off quietly however.
The next morning at nine o'clock, the officers,
marines and sailors were landed, and marching up to
the fort, took possession of it, hoisted the American
flag, and, to my recollection, retained possession about
twenty-four hours. But there seemed to have been a
mistake as to the intention of the English, for the fleet
did not make its appearance at Monterey.
We gave the place up, and returned to Callao ;
there learned that Commodore Jones had been ordered
home, and that Commodore Dallas was on his way out
to relieve him. (This was only hearsay.) Our cruise of
three years not being more than half finished, Commo-
dore Jones wished to complete it and go home on his
ship, and so kept out of the way of Dallas. We left
Callao and sailed for the Sandwich Islands. After our
visit there, we went to all the groups of islands in the
Pacific Ocean. When the time of the cruise was up,
we went to Valparaiso. Meanwhile, after we left Callao,
Commodore Dallas, on board the United States frigate
"Congress," followed us around from one place to
another, but not overtaking us ; for he would arrive at
a place just after we had left; and so, by dodging the
"Congress" in this way, Commodore Jones completed
his cruise and took the " old wagon," as the frigate
" United States" was called, round to the Atlantic side,
home.
I understand that an official investigation of the
commodore's action at Monterey took place, which re-
sulted in exonerating Commodore Jones from blame
for his action in the matter, and that he was presented
with a gold-hiked sword for the vigilance which he had
displayed in this affair.
1.54 COMMODORE JONES UNDER FALSE COLORS.
Mr. Culvervvell's contribution is made use of, it
being an accurate statement, by an eye-witness, of the
ev^ents detailed.
While I was at Santa Barbara with the " Don
Quixote " about the latter part of September, 1842, the
"Joven Guipuzcoana," Captain Snook, was there also.
He departed a few days before we did and proceeded
up the coast to Monterey, trading along as usual. His
vessel left the port of Monterey sometime in October. As
she was beating out of that bay they saw two war
vessels approaching from the south, and according to
the usual custom raised the Mexican flao;, she beinof a
Mexican bark ; and the two vessels approaching raised
the English flag. When they got pretty near, a shot
was fired from one of them across the bow of the " Joven
Guipuzcoana " for that vessel to stop, which demand she
complied with. Shortly after, she was hailed with an
order to throw her foreyards back, which she did, and
waited quietly not knowing what was the matter, until
a boat put off from one of the other vessels and came
alongside. The boat contained a lieutenant, midship-
man, the ordinary boat's crew, and eight or ten men
besides. When they came aboard his vessel Captain
Snook observed that the officers wore the uniform of
the United States navy, which puzzled him a good deal ;
the vessels bore the English flag. They asked him to
surrender the vessel to them, which he immediately did.
They remained on board, and the three vessels came
to anchor in the bay of Monterey, just under the bluff
NON-CO.MBATANTS MADE TRISOXERS. I 55
where the fort or castle stood, and then the EngHsh
flag was hauled down on the two vessels of war and
the American flag raised instead. These vessels were
the United States frigate "United States" and the
sloop-of-war " Cyane."
When the "Joven Guipuzcoana " left Santa Bar-
bara, Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo was on board, with his
daughter, whom he had left with her aunt when quite
young at San Diego, where she had since lived. He
had not seen her for ten years, and was now taking
her to their home at San Leandro. When the vessel
was captured as above described, in going out of Mon-
terey, this young lady and also Mrs. Snook, the cap-
tain's wife, became prisoners of war. I learned from
the former, who afterward became my wife, the facts in
regard to what transpired on the vessel. The two
ladies being in their state-rooms unaware of what had
transpired, Captain Snook went to his wife's room and
told her that they were prisoners ; whereupon that lady
hastened to Miss Estudillo's room and informed her, in
tears, that they had been captured. The officer in com-
mand told Captain Snook that his presence was required
on board the frigate " United States," and that his orders
from the commodore were that no one should go ashore ;
that all on board were prisoners of war, ladies included.
Captain Snook then had an interview with the commo-
dore, and coming aboard his own vessel, he found his
wife very much agitated and frightened. She presently
prevailed upon the captain to return and request permis-
156 THE GOVERNOR EVACUATES MONTEREY.
sion of the commodore for herself and Miss Estudillo
to be put ashore. The request was granted, and the
next morning early the two ladies were landed. During
the night Captain Snook had the oars of the boats muf-
fled, and quietly landed nearly the whole cargo of the
vessel, in order to save it for the c>wner, unknown, of
course, to the American vessels of war. Early in the
morning an officer from the " United States" came on
board and took an inventorv of what remained of the
cargo, which was very little.
Soon after the vessels had anchored at Monterey,
Commodore Jones sent an officer on shore to demand
the surrender of the town. The authorities at Monte-
rey had noticed the two vessels coming in under the
English flag, which was presently replaced by the
American, and also the return of the "Joven Guipuz-
coana " with them, and their suspicions were aroused.
They supposed that war had been declared between
the United States and Mexico, and thought the vessels
had probably come to take the town. Upon this, Gov-
ernor Alvarado left Monterey for his rancho Alisal.
twenty-six miles distant, accompanied by a body-guard
of forty cavalrymen, not wishing to incur the humilia-
tion of surrendering the town himself. In leaving, he
instructed the comandante, Captain Mariano Silva, that
if the surrender of the town was demanded to comply
with the request, inasmuch as they had not force enough
to successfully resist. When the officer who went on
shore to demand the surrender found that the cjovernor
TERRIFIED RESIDENTS TACIFIED. 1 57
was not there, he was met by the comandante, to whom
he deHvered the message, and who comphed. It was
stipulated between them, as it was late in the day, the
formal surrender should take place the next morning
at nine o'clock. The following morning the officers,
marines and sailors were landed in large force and pro-
ceeded, a portion to the fort, and a portion to govern-
ment headquarters. As they marched up from the land-
ing, through the town, they made quite a display, with
the American flag flying and the band playing the na-
tional air. The native Californians resident in the town
were horror-stricken, especially the officials and the
women, the latter going about the streets or looking
from their windows with their hair hanging loosely about
them and tears streaming from their eyes, bewailing the
loss of their country, the humiliation of their flag, and
fearing that their lives and property might also be sac-
rificed. The United States consul, T. O. Larkin, with
David Spence and other prominent foreigners, sought
to pacify them, assuring them that if the country was
lost to them forever, they should be protected.
Commodore Jones' force marched through the
streets, and a manifesto was read at intervals declar-
ing that as war existed between the United States
and Mexico, he, as commander of all the American
forces on the Pacific and representing the government
of the United States in that quarter, had been ordered
to take possession of the department of California ; and
in doing so, his purpose was not to injure the peaceable
158 NEWS THAT WAR HAD NOT BEEN DECLARED.
inhabitants of the department; that he would give them
every assurance that they should be protected in their
lives and property ; and moreover, the laws of Mexico,
under which they had lived, should continue in force; and
those officials who might wish to continue in their posi-
tions and administer the laws honestly and justly, were
at liberty to do so. On reaching the government head-
quarters the formal surrender took place, and the United
States flag was raised.
The United States consul and other prominent Amer-
icans at Monterey had received from Mexico newspa-
papers and letters giving much later intelligence than
Commodore Jones had received at Callao before his
departure from that port, which showed that up to the
time of their issue no war existed between the two
countries.
After the town had been taken possession of, Com-
modore Jones examined these letters and papers giving
the latest intelligence, and, on doing so, became con-
vinced that war had not been declared, and saw that his
action in the premises had been, to say the least, prema-
ture. Accordingly, he determined to surrender the place
to the authorities of the department and leave them in
possession, as before. He therefore sent an officer to the
comandante, Don Mariano Silva, to say he was satisfied
from the facts he had collected from the American consul
and other American residents at Monterey that he ought
to surrender the place to the Mexican authorities, and
would formally do so on the following day at a certain hour.
jMONTekev restored to the MEXICANS. 159
The next morning the troops were drawn up in front of
the government headquarters and at the fort. At a si^^-
nal,.the American flag was hauled down and the Mexican
flag raised at both points. A salute was then fired from
the two vessels in honor of the Mexican flag, and this
was responded to by a salute from the fort. All the
courtesies due from one nation to another were shown;
and the town of Monterey was fully restored to the pos-
session and power of its former possessors, twenty-four
hours after it was taken from them. The commodore
and officers, some twelve or fifteen, in full uniform, then
called on the government officers, to pay their respects ;
and the war was at an end. I n return, the officials called
on the commodore and his officers on the flag-ship, and
were warmly welcomed, entertained, and honored with a
salute befitting their rank. The Mexican bark was also
released and permitted to go on her business unmo-
lested.
About four or five days after these exciting events
I reached Monterey on the "Don Quixote." Shortly
after, Captain Paty and myself called on Commodore
Jones on board his vessel, and were immediately made
to feel at ease in his company. He impressed as a man
of decided ability, and withal social and genial. "VVe
listened with great interest and admiration to his ac-
count of his movements at Monterey and his reasons
therefor, which he gave us in full. He said he had
been instructed by the government to keep a close
watch upon the movements of the British squadron in
the Pacific, and on learning at Callao that their vessels
l6o AN EXPLANATION BY COMMODORE JONES.
were about to leave, thoucrh he did not know for what des-
tination, thinking the objective point might be Monte-
rey, he started a little in advance. He reached that
place without seeing them. Believing that the war
which seemed imminent between the United States and
Mexico had already commenced, he took possession of
the place, being determined to anticipate the British in
case they had any design of doing the same thing.
As he proceeded in his narrative, he warmed up with
enthusiasm, and declared what he had done was in per-
fect good faith. Although he had no positive instructions
to take Monterey, what he had done was in accordance
with the general instructions of the government not to
be outdone by the British. Straightening himself up,
as he went on in his narrative, he said : " Although I
was doubtless hasty in my action, it was better to be a
little too soon than an hour too late. The delay might
have been fatal. I felt the immense responsibility rest-
ing upon me. Had I arrived here and found the British
flag floating over Monterey, it would have been no easy
thing to displace it. In fact, to attempt to do so would
have been equivalent to a declaration of war between
the United States and Great Britain, and had I allowed
the British to get the advantage of me in securing
Monterey, I would have been disgraced forever." He
said that when he came to anchor before Monterey he
had springs placed upon the cable, so as to move the
vessel round in case of necessity, but he was very happy
that there had been no occasion to fire upon the town ;
although, he added, that if any demonstration of hos-
FIRST IIOISTINC, OF THE AMERICAN FLAc;. l6l
tility or show of resistance had been made, he would
have met it promptly, first notifying the United States
consul to have the women and children removed, as he
did not want to shed a drop of their blood, and then, if
necessary, he would have opened upon the fort and bat-
tered it to pieces.
The commodore went on to say that he was very
favorably impressed with California; that this was his
first visit, but he was familiar with it from readinof and
Other information he had gathered about it ; that he
liked the climate and the appearance of the countrv,
and that it was destined to be of great importance, and
that it must belong to the United States. He dwelt at
length upon the importance of our government getting
possession of it, and not letting the British do so in ad-
vance of us. He said there was no other nation to
fear in this connection, and that he and all his predeces-
sors here had been charo-ed to be alwavs on the watch
for the British fleet in these waters, and that doubtless
his successors would be likewise instructed.
The commodore in his conversation with us ex-
pressed a considerable degree of pride at having been
the first to raise the American flaof on the soil of Cali-
fornia, and seemed to regard this movement, although
so briefly terminated, as having given us the first right
in the future, and to have established a priority of claim
on the part of the United States to the possession of
the country when it should pass from the control of
Mexico. ,
//
CHAPTER XXII.
Stay at Monterey — A Musical Treat — A Present of Wine to the Naval Officers —
A Consular Entertainment at Monterey — The Enjoyment General — Commo-
dore Jones the Right Man in the Right Place — His Popularity — Leniency
Improperly Bestowed — Base Ingratitude — East Trip of the Frigate " United
States" to Honolulu and Back — A Family Party A'isits the Ship " Cyane "
An Agreealile Surprise— Hearty Congratulations — An Enjoyable Feast —
Commodore Jones as a Hunter of Small dame — The "Cyane" leaves for
Monterey.
We remained in the harbor of Monterey with the
" Don Quixote" about a week, and made frequent visits
to the flag-ship, and had many pleasant interviews with
the commodore and his officers. It was years since I
had heard any good music, and we enjoyed hearing the
fine band play at sunset on the quarter-deck of the
frigate. Captain Paty and myself sent a little present
of fine California wine to the commodore and Captain
Armstrong, which we had procured from the vineyard
of Don Louis Yione at Los Ano^eles. It was hio^hlv
appreciated by the recipients.
While we were at Monterey, an elegant entertain-
ment was given by the United States consul and other
American residents, at the government house, to the
commodore and the officers of the vessels. Captain
Paty and myself were among the guests. The music,
dancinof and feastins: lasted till a late hour. The com-
modore had sent messaofes to Governor Alvarado at
his rancho to come in and see him ; that he was a o-en-
ALVARADO FAILS TO MEET THE COMMODORE. I 6
3
tleman whose acquaintance he was desirous of mak-
ing ; that he would be most happy to entertain him
aboard his vessel. Alvarado replied courteously, declin-
ing the invitation, saying that while he was still gover-
nor of California, he might, by such a visit, in some
way compromise himself, or the commodore in his
subsequent intercourse with Micheltorena, the newly
appointed governor, who w'as at Los Angeles on his way
to the seat of government ; and said that he referred all
matters concerning the recent taking of Monterey to him.
Commodore Jones was much respected by his offi-
cers and also very popular with them. During my
visits to the vessel, I got the impression from what I
heard that Commodore Jones was especially selected
for service in the Pacific Ocean to watch and counter-
act any movements that might be made toward the ac-
quirement of California by any government other than
our own ; not only because of his superiority as a
naval commander, but on account of his intelligence,
sagacity, diplomatic talent and courage ; these qualities
rendering him peculiarly fitted for an undertaking re-
quiring delicacy and tact in its management.
Had Alvarado known of the coming of Jones be-
forehand, he would have made preparations to defend
Monterey and sink some or all of the fleet, by firing
from the castle ; as was done on a former occasion, in
1818, when two insurgent vessels, manned by Spaniards
from South America, without any government authority
came into the harbor of Monterey with the intention
164. INSURGENT SPANIARDS IN 1818.
of capturing the town ; and one of them, the " Negra,"
was sunk by guns fired from the fort. As she was
going down, those on board made signs and shouted to
those on shore to have mercy on them, and stop firing.
Captain Gomez, commanding the artillery, ordered the
firing to cease. The men from the sinking vessel, and
those from the other one also, then all came ashore in
their boats; and instead of being grateful for the kind-
ness shown them in sparing their lives, they marched
up with their arms, overpowered the governor and his
forces and took possession of the town. The governor,
Don Pablo Vicente de Sola, with the other officers of
the government and the garrison and the families living
in that vicinity, had to take flight into the country. The
enemy burned the town and the garrison buildings, and
then went away.
We departed from Monterey In the " Don Quixote,''
leaving the two United States vessels, and proceeded to
Yerba Buena. During the stay of the " Don Quixote,"
lasting several weeks, Commodore Jones arrived in the
sloop-of-war " Cyane," which was made flag-ship before
leaving Monterey, the frigate " United States " having
been sent to Honolulu for naval stores, that place being
the depot for provisions, etc., of the Pacific squadron.
She made the trip from Monterey to Honolulu and back
in twenty-nine days, the quickest ever known at that
time, and I don't think it has been beaten since by any
sailing vessel. This included four days stopping at
Honolulu to take in stores. Captain Eliab Grimes was
THE FLAG-SHIP GOES TO HONOLULU. 1 65
on board of her on her voyage out from Monterey as
the guest of Captain Armstrong. She made the run to
Honolulu in ten days. Captain Grimes said she might
have performed it in eight days, but it was always their
habit to shorten sail at evening and proceed under less
canvas during the night. He tried to persuade them to
keep on full sail during the night, as well as the day, but
Captain Armstrong could not be induced to alter the cus-
tom; so the voyage was longer than it otherwise need
have been.
The " Cyane " lay at Saucelito during her stay here,
and the commodore visited Yerba Buena. I was very
busy arranging for my business and saw but little of him
at that time. Spear saw him frequently, and both he
and Richardson spoke in high terms of the commodore
as a well-informed man.
In January, 1843, Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo, ac-
companied by his wife and his daughters, Doiia Con-
cepcion and Dofia Maria Jesus (the latter of whom a
few months before had been captured at Monterey by
Commodore Jones, as already described), visited Cap-
tain Richardson's family at Saucelito, Mrs. Richard-
son and Mrs. Estudillo being sisters. During this visit
Captain Richardson and his wife and daughter and the
Estudillo family were invited by Commodore Jones to a
little party on board the " Cyane." As they passed over
the gangway of the vessel the commodore and his offi-
cers stood there to receive them, and showed the greatest
warmth and courtesy toward them. Captain Richard-
l66 DANCING PARTY ON THE " CYANE."
son introduced Don Jose as the father of the young
lady who a few months before had been. captured by the
commodore at Monterey. "What ! " exclaimed the com-
modore ; " is this the father of the fair captive who, un-
der the rules of war, I was compelled to make prisoner
for a time ? " and at the same moment took Estudillq
warmly by the hand, threw his arms around him and
embraced him heartily, as was the fashion of the Cali-
fornians. x^fter all the introductions were made, and
affable greetings extended, the commodore showed the
highest gallantry by remarking that the only thing he
regretted was having to surrender Monterey after haY-
ing taken it. They had a delightful entertainment,
dancing until late in the evening, the ladies above men-
tioned being present.
On this occasion tlie commodore showed great at-
tention and politeness to Don Jose, and was exceed-
ingly affable to the ladies, doing everything in his power
to make their visit agreeable, and setting before them
a very handsome dinner. During the dinner the com-
modore carved with difficulty, one of his hands being
distorted from a wound received durinif an enofaeement
between the vessel on which he was a midshipman and
a vessel of the enemy, during the war of 1812 with
England. He excused himself for his want of skill in
carving, explaining the cause of the difficulty. A num-
ber of the officers on board the " Cyane " spoke the
Spanish language fluently, which added to the interest
of the festivity.
THE FLEET LEAVES FOR SAN PEDRO. 1 67
During the stay of the vessel in the bay the com-
modore's habit was to go on shore in the morning and
hunt for small game, sport he greatly enjoyed. He would
frequently lunch with Captain Richardson on shore, and
there he met the Estudillo family. The "Cyane" left
here and went down to Monterey about the time the
"United States " was expected back. On the arrival
there of the latter vessel she was made the flag-ship
again, and both ships left for San Pedro.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Commodore Jones and Officers make a ^'isit to Governor Micheltorena at Los
Angeles — A Talk about the Capture of Monterey — An Amicable Under-
standing Arrived at — A Grand Banquet Succeeds — The Officers, by Invita-
tion, call on Don Louis Vigne — They Inspect his Cellars, Vineyards, and
Sample his Wine — They are Presented with Several Barrels of the Same —
Nativity of Don Louis — A Pioneer, and the Most Noted Mticulturist — The
First to Raise Oranges in Los Angeles — Devoted to His Business — Extent of
his Vineyards Nine Vears after — His Predictions of California becoming a
Wine-producing Country — Don Louis as an Old Man — A Pride to the State,
Generous to the Poor, and Liked by Every One — Impossible to Bestow too
much Praise on his Memory.
Commodore Jones called on Micheltorena at Los
Angeles, with his suite of officers, in full uniform, and
the commodore and the new governor had a long con-
ference in regard to the taking of Monterey, lasting
several days. The explanations of the former were
politely received by the latter and a cordial understand-
ing arrived at between the two.
During his stay there a banquet was given to Com-
modore Jones and his officers by Micheltorena, wind-
ing up with a grand ball. Mr. Henry Melius was pres-
ent, and has informed me it was a brilliant affair. All
the wealth and beauty of Los Angeles and surrounding
country were present. The^-commodore and his of-
ficers expressed themselveS'^as highly delighted. They
also spoke flatteringly of Los Angeles and its neighbor-
hood, calling it the Eden— ef-4ht^ earth. They were
charmed with the vineyards and orchards, with the
AN ENLIGHTENED PIONEER. ■^'^^\ 1 69
/ I
orange groves, seeing the golden fruit hanging oxi the
trees in the month of January. The most extensive
cultivator at that time (1843) was Don totJis Vigne,
who invited them to his place and entertained them.
They were delighted with his California wines, of differ-
ent vintages, some as much as eight or ten years old, of
fine quality. They were interested in going through
his cellars, where the wines of different years were stored
in large quantities in pipes. Vigne presented the
commodore and the officers with several barrels of this
choice wine, which were gratefully accepted. He re-
marked that he desired them to preserve some of it to
take to Washington to give to the President of the
United States, that he might know what excellent wine
was produced in California.
Don Louis was a Frenchman, who came to Mon-
terey in the bark "Louisa" with me in 1831 from Bos-
ton, touching at Honolulu and Sitka. From Monterey
he went to San Pedro, shortly afterward established
himself at Los Angeles, and before long had the
largest vineyard in California. At that early day he
imported cuttings of different varieties of grapes, in
small quantities, which were put up with great care
and sent from P>ance to Boston ; thence they came
out in the vessels trading on this coast, to be experi-
mented with in wine producing. He took great pride
in the business. I regard him as the pioneer not only
in wine making, but in the orange cultivation, he being
the first man to raise oranges in Los Angeles and the
I/O AN ENLIGHTENED PIONEER.
first to establish a vineyard of any pretension. In 1833
I called to see him at his house and found him well
established. My old friend was overjoyed to see me
and received me most hospitably ; I remained two or
three days with him. I was a boy at that time, and
he said to me most warmly, "William, I only regret
that I am not of your age. With my knowledge of
vine and orange cultivation and of the soil and climate
of California, I forsee that these two are to have a
great future ; this is just the place to grow them to per-
fection." He was then about fiftv years old, full
of zeal and enterprise. He was one of the most
valuable men who ever came to California, and the
father of the wine industry here. He had an intelli-
gent appreciation of the extent and importance of this
interest in the future. In 184.1, nine years afterward,
I again called to see him. He asked me if I remem-
bered what he had said to me when I was last there»
about the California wine, its iniportance and value, and
remarked that he would now prove to me that his pre-
dictions were correct, and would show me what he could
do for California. He then took me and a friend who
was with me into his cellar and showed us the different
vintages stored there, and brought out several bottles
of his old wine, which were tested and commended-
He said he had written home to France representing
the advantages of California for wine making, tell-
ing them that he believed the day would come when
California would rival "la belle France" in wine pro-
ducing of all varieties, not only in quantity, but in
AN ENLIGHTENED PIONEER. I71
quality, not even excepting champagne ; and that he had
also induced sev^eral of his relations and a number of his
more intellisfent countrymen to come to California to
settle near Los Angeles, and engage in the business.
He also manufactured aguardiente in considerable
quantities, as did other wine producers. This liquor
was considered by the old settlers as a superior article
when three or four years old. Beyond that, it still
further improved in quality, being of a finer flavor, en-
tirely pure, and was regarded as a wholesome drink.
It was made from the old Mission grapes. When first
produced it was clear and colorless, like gin or alcohol,
but gradually assumed a slight tint with age, and when
six, eight or ten years old, became of fine amber color,
and was then a rich, oily liquor, very palatable.
The merchants bought the aguardiente and also
the wines, in considerable lots, directly from the vine-
yards, and sold it to their customers at Monterey,
Yerba Buena, and other points along the coast. At
that time I was familiar with wines of different kinds,
and was regarded as an expert in determining their
quality and value, and I considered the aguardiente as
vastly superior to the brandy made in those days.
Some of it is probably still kept at Los Angeles.
Don Louis was trulv one of the most enh^ht-
ened pioneers of the coast. In May, 1852, I saw him
again for the last time, visiting him at his home, accom-
panied by John H. Saunders, who recently died at
San Rafael. Vigne was then quite old, but his intellect
was unimpaired. The Don was full of the history of
172 DON LOUIS VIGNE.
wine matters, and kept up a constant stream of conver-
sation, proud of his success, and overflowing with bril-
liant anticipations of the future of this interest in
which he was so wrapped up, as bearing upon the pros-
perity of the state and its commercial importance.
His vineyard was entered by an immense gate, just
outside of which there was a splendid sycamore tree
of great age. From this circumstance Vigne was
known as Don Louis del Aliso, aliso being the Spanish
word for sycamore. He greatly admired the huge tree
and was proud of it and of being called by that name,
by which he was more familiarly known. His choice
old wine could be drank with impunity. It had an
agreeable, exhilarating and strengthening effect, but no
unpleasant after-consequences. He was known by
everybody in the vicinity of Los Angeles, and ap-
preciated. He was generous to the poor ; in their
distress he helped them in bread, money and wine.
When they came to him he advised the mothers of
young children to give them a little wine as an in-
ternal antiseptic, so that they might grow up strong, as
in his own country ; or on the same principle, perhaps,
that doctors prescribe whisky and milk, as a cure for
diphtheria. »
I am sure that all of the residents of California
who were living here at the time of Don Louis will
endorse what I have said in regard to him and his
influence upon the prosperity of the country. It is to be
hoped that historians will do justice to his character,
his labors and foresiofht.
CHAPTER XXIV.
A Few Names of the Earliest Comers to California — A Homely Husband and
Handsome Wife — A Lady with Long and Beautiful Hair — Race Improvement
by Inter-marriage— Captain Thomas M. Robbins and His Cook — J. J.
Warner — He becomes a Prominent Man in the State.
Some of the foreicrners at Santa Barbara dated their
residence at that place back to 1830 and 1831. Among
them were William G. Dana, a nephew of my father ;
Daniel Hill, Francis Branch and A. B. Thompson, who
were all natives of Massachusetts. They were engaged
in merchandising and stock-raising. Isaac Sparks and
George Nidever were natives of Kentucky, and otter-
hunters by profession. Lewis T. Burton was also an
otter-hunter, who left an only son a considerable fortune
in land. Michael Burke was a native of Ireland, and
Robert Elwell was a native of Boston. The latter was
a comical character, with a peculiar, sharp countenance^
a prominent nose, and a queer look. He had consider-
able native wit, and made fun for others. He himself was
made fun of by the captains, supercargoes and merchants
who came to the place ; and was altogether of use as a
clown. He married a daughter of Don Juan Sanchez, a
prominent ranchero.
After 1833, Dr. Nicholas A. Den, a native of
Ireland, came to Santa Barbara and practiced his pro-
fession there. He married a daughter of Daniel Hill,
who had married into the Ortega family. Dr. Den
174 DINING AGAIN AT SANTA BARBARA,
was as homely a man as I ever saw. His wife is
still living and preserves her beauty. Her hair was
remarkable in its color of melchocJia, or pulled
candy made from molasses. It was very luxuriant,
falling profusely over her shoulders nearly to her
feet. Dr. Den was an intelligent, educated and accom-
plished gentleman, and much liked. He has a brother,
a physician, now living at Los Angeles, and commonly
known in Southern California as Don Ricardo, a man of
learning, and universally respected.
At Santa Barbara also was captain Thomas W. Rob-
bins, formerly a shipmaster, a Boston man, married to
adauofhter of Don Carlos Carillo. When I was there in
1842 he kept a store of general merchandise, and which
was a kind of headquarters for the captains and super-
cargoes of vessels lying in port. He was generous and
liked by everybody. At his table, as well as at Mrs.
Wilson's, the captains and supercargoes of vessels were
always welcome.
Captain Paty and myself were dining with him in
1842, and he told us of an old Indian cook who had
been with him many years, and had been carefully in-
structed, as, indeed, his good dinners testified. He said
that although the man was faithful and quiet, and attended
well to his duties, he was obliged about every six months
to give him a tremendous whipping ; only because at
those times the Indian came and begged his master
to give him a good thrashing, saying it was necessary,
to make him a good cook for the next six months.
THE REASON THE CO'OKING WAS GOOD. I 75
Robbins felt forced to comply, much against his will, for
he was a kind-hearted man and treated his servants well ;
but the Indian assured him it must be done, otherwise
he would become lazy and negligent.
Captain Robbins had before mentioned this several
times, and on this occasion, in order to fortify his state-
ment, while we were busy with our dinner and talking
and lauQfhine with the wife of our host and their beau-
tiful children, he whispered to a servant in the dining-
room to call the old Indian, Presently, in he came, a
stalwart man, weighing probably 200 pounds, strong
and well preserved, with rather a pleasing cast of coun-
tenance, and polite in his manners, the result of his good
, training in the family. Captain Robbins addressed him
in Spanish, saying, " I have said to my guests that I
have had to whip you soundly, against my will, about
once in six months, because you desired it and persisted
in having it done, to make you a good cook for the next
half year. Is it so ? " The old Indian looked sharply
at Captain Paty and myself and answered, " £s verdad,
seiiores.'' (" It is true, sirs.") A roar of laughter fol-
lowed from all present, as the cook retreated to the
kitchen, laughing heartily himself.
In my father-in-law's family at San Leandro there
was an Indian by the name of Juan Jose, now about
seventy years of age, well preserved and strong, who was
taken when a child, reared and always retained by them.
He was usually obedient and tractable, but occasionally
would become lazy and insolent, when it was found
176 A PATRIARCH.
necessary to give him a good whipping ; which was done
(not by his own request, however) ; whereupon he be-
came civil and obedient and attended faithfully to his
duties. The effect of this management has always
been apparent ; goodness, as it were, being whipped
into him.
I knew Don Teodoro Arrelanes in Santa Barbara.
He was a thorough ranchero. He was then perhaps
fifty-five years of age, six feet in height, very straight,
weighing 220 pounds; was genial and polite; had a
numerous family, and owned extensive tracts of land,
cornprising many leagues ; among them the Rancho
Guadalupe, near Santa Maria, with as many as
20,000 cattle and thousands of horses. Among the
rancheros he was looked upon as a kind of chief
in that portion of country, by reason of his good
judgment and knowledge of matters pertaining to
ranchos. On one occasion I said to him : " Don
Teodoro, how is it you have accumulated so much
wealth — such an immense number of cattle and
horses ? " He smilingly answered : " The labor is to get
the first 2000, and after that they increase very fast,
under ordinary care and management. They require
a great deal of care and thought, to make the best
rodeo cattle and to prevent them from running entirely
wild, and to make the horses useful for their purpose."
Sometimes cattle escaped from the ranchos to the
mountains, forgot their former training, and became
entirely wild ; when vaqueros would go out into the
CALIFORNIA CHILDREN. 177
mountains, lasso them, and bring them, tied to the
cabestros, to be slaughtered or tamed.
John J. Warner, a native of Connecticut, came to
California in 1831. He owned the Rancho Agua Cal-
iente in .San Diego county, containing eleven leagues.
He resided there and also at Los Angeles ; was some-
what a literary man, and he spoke Spanish fluentlv.
He has represented Los Angeles and San Diego coun-
ties in the State Legislature. The Californians valued
his friendship, and also his good counsel whenever they
were in need of advice. He is now over seventy years
of age and well preserved.
The intermarriage of the foreigners in early times
with the Californians produced a fine race of children,
who partook of the characteristics of both parents.
The stock, as usual, was improved by the mingling of
the different nationalities.
12
CHAPTER XXV.
A Revolution — General Castro joins Alvarado — Troops at their Old Tricks — A
Skirmish and Retreat — Los Angeles taken by Alvarado — A Division of Senti-
ment — The Leaders of the Separate Columns — The People Opposed to Strife
— Alvarado its Moving Cause — Why and Where he found his Allies — Alvarado
resorts to Impressment — General Vallejo Non-committal — Micheltorena is
joined by General Sutter with Fifty or Sixty Riflemen — The Author Custo-
dian of Alexander Bell's Treasure and Goods — Cannonading Heard — A
Battle Ensues — Apprehension of the People for the Safety of Relatives —
Anguish of the Women — A Long but Bloodless Battle — Micheltorena Ca-
pitulates and Agrees to Leave the Country.
The revolution against Micheltorena by Alvarado
and Castro, in 1844, was not on account of bad govern-
ment or misrule by Micheltorena, or from a dislike of
him by the responsible men of the country. The
wealthy ranch-owners and others were not in favor of
revolution. They desired peace, naturally, as they had
everything to lose by conflict and nothing to gain. It
originated as much from the restless nature of Alvarado
and his ambition to rule, as anything else. Having
when young been connected with public affairs, and after-
ward governor of the department, he could not rest
quietly and see the government administered by any-
body else.
General Castro, who had been displaced when
Micheltorena came into power, was ambitious, and nat-
urally joined with Alvarado ; and the two, having been
intimately connected for a long time, stirred up the peo-
ple to revolutionize. There was also a good deal of
THE BATTLE OF SALINAS. 1 79
feeling by many against the troops who came into
the country with Micheltorena, especially by the resi-
dents of Monterey, where the troops were quartered ;
they alleging that the soldiers stole their chickens and
committed other small depredations. They might have
done something^ worse, though there is no evidence of it.
Alvarado and Castro collected several hundred men
about the bay of San Francisco and got them together
on the Salinas plains, mounted, and armed with all kinds
of weapons such as they could pick up, most of their
arms being of no great efficiency. They had also a few
old cannons. At this place they were met by Michel-
torena and his force from Monterey, and a skirmish
ensued. The insurgents retreated to the Laguna San
Antonio, followed by Micheltorena. They remained
there several days, during which some firing and maneu-
vering took place ; but nobody was killed.
From that point, Alvarado and Castro with their
troops retreated, and commenced a march south for the
purpose of visiting the different ranchos, creating sym-
pathy for their cause and obtaining recruits, horses and
provisions.
Alvarado had great power of speech and argument.
He was eloquent in behalf of his movement, and
though the people generally disliked it, he induced
some of the rancheros to join him. Many of the
younger men were taken against their will as recruits
for his army. He also secured a large number of horses,
some of which were given to him voluntarily, and others
were taken by force.
l8o LOS ANGELES TAKEN BY ALVARADO.
I was at that time in Los Angeles. It was known
by the people there that a revolution prevailed at the
north. But the soldiers at the barracks and the ranch-
eros were loyal to the government. Alvarado know-
ing this, prevented any mformation going ahead of
him to notify the military of his coming. He reached
the neighborhood of Los Angeles and went into the
town quietly before daylight, and surprised the soldiers
at quarters. Some resistance was made, two of the de-
fenders being killed. The garrison was overpowered
and obliged to yield the post, and a guard was placed
over the captives. Alvarado took possession of the
plaza, where the barracks were located, and also of the
government offices, including those of the alcalde and
prefect. The officers who resisted were made prisoners.
He then set his wits to work to bring the people under
his influence, and immediately had a conference with
Don Pio Pico, a very wealthy ranchero in that place, a
man of large influence, brother of Don Andres Pico,
also wealthy, popular and influential ; the two owning
sixty or seventy leagues of land in what are now Los
Angeles and San Diegfo counties. This interview was
followed by several others. Alvarado used his great
powers of persuasion with Don Pio to induce him to
join his cause and pursuade the people of the surround-
ing neighborhood to come into the movement, and con-
tribute hundreds of their fine horses to the army. Among
other inducements by him, he promised Pio Pico the
governorship of the department, if Micheltorena should
THE PICO BROTHERS LED INTO REBELLION. 151
be deposed. Being at that time president of the junta
departmental, he was assured the place was lawfully his;
and' he was finally so influenced that he promised to
aid Alvarado to the extent of his power. Don Andres
Pico was also prevailed upon to join the movement.
Through the activity and great influence of the
Pico brothers, several hundred new recruits were col-
lected, and added to Alvarado's army. Hundreds and
hundreds of the finest of saddle horses were contributed
also. I saw capone7'a after caponeT-a, day after day,
brought to the military headquarters, at the town plaza,
from the neisfhborinof ranchos. Alvarado and Castro
were busy in receiving recruits, distributing them and
the horses to the different commands, and reorganizing
the forces for the battle which was expected to take
place. The work continued actively for several weeks.
At that time military affairs took precedence of every-
thing else in Los Angeles.
Ever since the conflict between Carillo and Alva-
rado in 1838, and even prior to that time, there had ex-
isted a jealousy between the two sections of the country
north and south, the northern portion of the people,
say from San Luis Obispo north, being the Alvarado
party ; and the southern portion, from Santa Barbara
south, the Carillo and Pico party. The leaders in
the north were Alvarado and General Jose Castro, but
the master spirit was Alvarado. In the south the
leaders were Don Jose Antonio Carillo and his brother
Don Carlos, and the brothers Pico.
I $2 THE CARILLOS INFLUENCED.
In this outbreak, General Vallejo was considered
non-committal, not taking active part, preferring to at-
tend to his own affairs. Alvarado, thus engaged, feared
the influence of Jose Antonio Carillo. After he had
won over the Pico brothers, he approached him in the
same way he had approached them, but found in him,
as he had anticipated, more confirmed and strenuous
opposition to his plans, Carillo was superior to the
Pico brothers in intellect, but Alvarado was superior to
them all. He finally prevailed upon Don Jose An-
tonio to give him some assistance. Jose Antonio's am-
bition originally, in the revolution of 1838, was to make
his brother Don Carlos governor ; to prove to Alva-
rado and to his countrymen, as I frequently heard him
say, that he himself was the brains of the department.
After the skirmish near Salinas, Micheltorena was
joined by Captain Sutter, with fifty or sixty riflemen,
from the Sacramento valley, among them Dr. John
Marsh, one of the first comers, P. B. Reading, and
other early settlers, who probably had no particular
preference one side or the other in the revolution.
Their aim and desire was to secure laree grants of
land, in addition to what they already possessed, and
which they would have undoubtedly obtained as a
reward for military services in defending the country
had Micheltorena remained in power. Sutter kept also
in the Sacramento valley 300 Indian riflemen, whom
he had trained as soldiers, for his own defense.
BATTLE NEAR LOS ANGELES. 1 83
Micheltorena followed Alvarado southward ; but as
the main portion of his troops was infantry, and his
cannons had to be transported, his progress was neces-
sarily slow. When Alvarado and his force left Los
Angeles to meet Micheltorena, several of the American
residents and other foreigners who had joined his army
accompanied him ; among them Alexander Bell, a lead-
ng merchant. He requested me to take charge of
his store during his absence, and in case he should
meet the fate of a soldier I should turn everything
over to his widow. In leaving, he gave me the key of
his safe, and said it contained considerable money. In
those days there were no banks. Every merchant was
his own banker. Bell was considered as always havinga
good supply of money on hand, and I felt a little ner-
vous the first night ; as there were a good many doubt-
ful characters about Los x^ngeles, I feared that some
of them might break in, and take possession of the
funds. I was not disturbed however. Perhaps Al-
varado had taken all this class along with him as part
of his army.
In January, 1845, the two armies came together
in the valley of San Fernando, one of the most beautiful
portions of Los Angeles county. Alvarado had seven
or eight hundred men, well mounted but poorly armed.
About nine o'clock one clear morning, a day or two
after the departure of the troops, the first cannonading
was heard in Los Angeles, and we knew that the battle
had commenced. Directly to the north was a high hill.
184 MICHELTORENA CAPITULATES.
As soon as the firing was heard, all the people remain-
ing in the town — men, women and children, ran to the
top of this hill. As the wind was blowing from the
north, the firing was distinctly heard, five leagues away
on the battlefield, throughout the day. All the busi-
ness places in town were closed.
The scene upon the hill was a remarkable one.
Women and children with crosses in their hands, kneel-
ing and praying to the Saints for the safety and protec-
tion of their fathers, brothers, sons, husbands, lovers,
cousins— that they might not be killed in the battle ; in-
dffferent to their personal appearance, tears streaming
from their eyes, and their hair blown about by the wind,
which had increased to quite a breeze. Don Abel
Stearns, myself and others tried to calm and pacify
them, assuring them that there was probably no danger;
somewhat against our convictions, it is true, judging
from what we heard of the firing and from our knowl-
edge of Micheltorena's disciplined force, his battery,
and the riflemen he had with him. During the day
the scene on the hill continued. The night that fol-
lowed was a gloomy one, caused by the lamentations
of the women and children.
It afterward proved that our assurances to the
women were correct ; for not a single person was killed
in this remarkable battle, only a few horses being shot.
The next day the strife ended ; Micheltorena capitu-
lated, and agreed to leave the country with his troops,
arms and followers.
CHAPTER XXVI.
After the Battle — Inter-mingling of the Hostile Parties — The Author has another
Interview with Captain Sutter— A Talk over Old Times— James McKinla)'
becomes a Mediator between the Hostile Leaders — Condition of the Settle-
ment — General Vallejo Supplanted as Commander-in-Chief l)y General
Castro— Generous Forbearance of General Micheltorena— Reason why the
Conflict was Bloodless — Don Pio Pico becomes Provisional Governor of the
Department— The "Don (Quixote" Chartered as a Transport— Micheltorena
and Troops Depart upon Her— The Author on Board as Supercargo—
Micheltorena Talks about the Battle— His Appearance as a Soldier— His
Accomplishments— Reflections on what has been Related — Alvarado as an
Intriguer— The \'oyage to San Bias— Micheltorena Wishes to Amend Paty's
Fortunes — The Governor's First Arrival in the Department— Diversions
coming North from San Diego.
On the day following the grand battle in San Fer-
nando valley many of the prominent men from both
armies arrived at Los Angeles, among them Captain
Sutter. Dr. Marsh. Bidwell, Bell and others. Sutter
and some of his friends came first to the headquarters
of Don Abel Stearns, who received them kindly. They
were so thickly covered with dust that one could hardly
recognize them. I was glad to meet my old friend
Captain Sutter, whom I had not seen for several years.
That night he was the guest of William C. Flugge,
a conspicuous German merchant of Los Angeles, who
had lived at fort New Helvetia, and been connected
with Sutter in business. I spent the evening there
very pleasantly, talking over old times with Captain Sut-
ter, and sipping some fine California wine ot Don Louis
del Aliso's vintage till a late hour in the night.
1 86 BENEVOLENCE OF MICHELTORENA.
James McKinlay was present at the battle as
a spectator, not taking an active part. Towards the
close of the day he volunteered to Alvarado and Castro
to act as meditator between them and Micheltorena
and endeavor to bring about an agreement of the two
armies. He was encouraged to do so; and upon his
representations the conflict was terminated.
During the settlement of the terms, before the
capitulation, the insurgent Californians urged upon
Micheltorena, as one of the conditions, that General
Vallejo should be deposed as commander-in-chief, and
General Castro appointed in his place. This was agreed
to ; and from that time General Castro occupied that
position.
The capitulation of Micheltorena was not compul-
sory, inasmuch as his force of skilled and disciplined
soldiers, and their arms, equipments of every kind, and
supply of ammunition, were altogether superior to those
of Alvarado ; but it was the result wholly of Michelto-
rena's good feeling toward the people of California,
and which led him to refrain from injuring them, as he
might easily have done, and to a serious extent. From
my knowledge of him and my personal acquaintance
with him, I regarded him as a humane man. The for-
bearance he showed on this occasion in the face of great
provocation, proves this to have been the case. He
was not only a military man, but a statesman, and took
a broad and comprehensive view of the whole matter.
Captain Sutter, during the evening, in giving me an
PIO PICO BECOMES GOVERNOR. 1 87
account of the day's battle, said that Micheltorena had
ordered his command not to injure the CaHfornians in
the force opposed to him, but to fire over their heads,
as he had no desire to kill them. This order was given
to the other captains also. Sutter's men being sharp-
shooters and skillful in the use of their rifles, might
have done terrible execution, had they not been directed
to the contrary. Moreover, the Americans who accom-
panied Sutter had lived for many years among the CaH-
fornians ; some had intermarried with them ; had become
identified with them, and the natural sympathies of these
men were, of course, not against them.
Had Micheltorena conquered the CaHfornians in
this conflict, and killed a number, it might have added
to his military reputation, but it would have made him
very unpopular with the people and embittered them
against him, especially the families of those killed, and
their friends. Thereafter his position as governor would
not have been a pleasant or an easy one, for he would
have been subjected to constant harassment from peo-
ple opposed to him ; who would have considered that
they had been greatly injured at his hands, and would
finally have driven him away.
A few days after the battle, Micheltorena moved
his forces to Palos Verde, about four miles from San
Pedro, where cur vessel, the " Don Quixote," then lay.
Don Pio Pico became provisional governor of the
department, after the capitulation, by virtue of his hold-
ing the position of president of the junta departmental,
1 88 MICHELTORENA DEFENDS HIS CONDUCT.
and immediately entered into negotiations with Cap-
tain Paty and myself to charter the " Don Quixote"
to convey Micheltorena and his forces to Monterey, and
thence to San Bias, taking in the remainder of the troops
at Monterey. After several days' conference we came
to an agreement. Pico chartered the vessel for that pur-
pose for $1 i,ooo. While these negotiations were pend-
ing, Captain Paty and myself called upon Micheltorena
a number of times with reference to the transportation
of the troops, the room required for their accommoda-
tion, and other details. In about two weeks after the
agreement was made the vessel was ready to receive
the troops, and they embarked upon her. We had a
pleasant trip of seven and a half days to Monterey.
Micheltorena talked freely about the late battle. He
said he was a friend of the Californians ; that he had
been sent here to protect and not to destroy them ;
that he thought they were a brave people, but they were
ill prepared for a battle-field ; their cannons were of
little account, their small arms still worse, and they could
not procure others from any source, the government
having possession of them all ; that they had done their
best to defeat him, but that was an impossibility. He
said his forces were drilled soldiers and well armed ; his
officers educated military men; that he had eight or ten
fine brass guns, four to eight-pounders, properly mounted,
an inexhaustible supply of ammunition ; and that he
could have made sad havoc among the opposing force ;
but he gave orders to the artillerymen and soldiers to
IMAGINARY GRIEVANCES. I 89
shoot over the heads of the insur
bey, of the bark " Tasso," had made several voyages
to the coast and had become enamored of a young Cal-
ifornia lady, who was also beloved by Chico Haro. Lib-
bey was a good-natured man, but rather gross in his ap-
pearance. His attentions were not reciprocated by the
lady. The two rivals met one day in Vioget's saloon.
200 ONE SOBER SANCHEZ.
which was kept at that time by Juan Padillo, who suc-
ceeded Hinckley as alcalde. They had imbibed rather
freely of California aguardiente, which, when newly
made, is very stimulating. Ramon Haro, brother of
Chico, the brothers Francisco and Ysidro Sanchez,
uncles of the two Haros, were present, and they all had
drank more or less. A drunken row ensued, high words
were used, and during the melee Captain Libbey was
stabbed by Chico Haro. His brother Ramon was sup-
posed to be an accomplice in the matter. The Sanchez
brothers were also more or less connected with it. This
occurrence is mentioned, because breaches of the
peace were rare; disturbances of any kind being very
unusual.
I have before stated that the Californians, as a
class, were a sober people, and drank little ; but the
Sanchez family was an exception ; and though not hab-
itual drunkards, they imbibed freely, one only of them,
Don Jose de la Cruz Sanchez, being temperate. After
the stabbing. Alcalde Hinckley did his duty promptly by
arresting the two Haro brothers and Ysidro Sanchez.
They were immediately tried, and Ysidro was released.
The two Haros were found guilty and sentenced to the
calaboose of the Pueblo San Jose for six months each.
The whole matter occupied but a brief time, Hinckley
showing great alacrity in the administration of the law-
Libbey was not dangerously stabbed, and presently re-
covered.
I have already spoken of the fine appearance and
development of many of the Californians ; and in this
A WIRY OCTOGENARIAN. 20I
connection shall mention General Vallejo's three broth-
ers, all well proportioned men, of large stature ; one is
still living, over eighty years of age. The Bernals, of
San Jose ; the Berreyesas, of whom Don Jose Santos
was particularly noble-looking and intelligent ; the halt-
brothers of Governor Alvarado, at Monterey ; the Es-
trados, the Soberanes family, the Monrass family, also
of Monterey, were fine-looking men ; also the Santa
Cruz Castros, three or four brothers ; Don Pablo de la
Guerra's brothers, at Santa Barbara, they were his
equals in good looks.
Don Antonio Maria Lugo, of Los Angeles, was
genial and witty, about eighty years of age, yet active
and elastic, sitting on his horse as straight as an arrow,
with his riata on the saddle, and as skillful in its use as
any of his vaqueros. He was an eccentric old gentle-
man. He had a wife aged twenty or twenty-two — his
third or fourth. In 1846 I visited him. After cordially
welcoming me, he introduced me to his wife, and in the
same breath, and as I shook hands with her, said, in a
joking way, with a cunning smile, ''No se enainore dc
}ui joven esposa!' He had numbers of children, grand-
children and great-grandchildren. Los Angeles was
largely populated from his family. Referring to this
circumstance, he said to me, quietly, " Don Guillermo,
yo he cuiuplido mi deber a mi paiz!'
At Los Angeles, also, were Don Tomas Yorba and
his brothers, splendid looking, proud and dignified in
address and manners, the cream of the country. The
202 BEAUTIFUL WOMEN.
wife of Don Tomas was Dona Vicenta, a graceful
woman. The Sepulvedas, of Los AnQ^eles, also were
fine physical specimens of the people. At San Diego,
the Arguellos, sonsof the prefect, were finely formed men,
well proportioned. Mrs. General Castro, of Monterey,
Dona Modeste, was beautiful, queenly in her appear-
ance and bearing. The wife of David Spence, sister of
Prefect Estrada, was of medium size, with fine figure
and beautiful, transparent complexion. The two sisters
ot General Vallejo, one the widow of Captain Cooper,
the other the wife of Jacob P. Leese, were also striking
in beauty. I saw the former a year or two ago. She
was then seventy years of age and well preserved. She
had the appearance of a woman of fifty. The latter,
Dofia Rosalia, was considered in former days an at-
tractive woman, fascinating and vivacious. Mrs. Leese
learned from her husband the use of the rifle, shooting
with the greatest accuracy. Jacob P. Leese was among
the sharpshooters in early Indian campaigns. On the
Pourth of July celebration in 1839 I saw a specimen of
her skill with the rifle, which was wonderful, shooting at
bn-ds on the wing at a great distance, and killing them.
When James McKinlay and myself were on our
way from San Diego to Santa Anita, in November,
1844, to visit Hugo Reid, we stopped a day and night
at the Mission of San Luis Rey, where we met Father
Jose Maria Salvidea, one of the last of the old priests
from Spain still remaining in California. He was strong
and healthy, although about eighty years of age. There
was also a Mexican priest in charge of the Mission.
AT THE MISSION OF SAN LUIS REV. 203
Father Salvidea spent most of his time in walking back
and forth in the spacious piazza of the Mission, with his
prayer-book open in his hand, saying his prayers, hour
after hour. I stood there for some time observing him,
and every time he reached the end of the piazza he
would give me a little side glance and nod of recogni-
tion, and say " llamas si, sefwr'' a number of times in
succession. Whenever he met me or anyone else
through the day or evening he would make the same
greeting, and never anything else. It anyone spoke
to him he would listen attentively until the speaker had
finished, apparently hearing and understanding every-
thing that was said, but he made no reply other than
the words I have quoted. During such interviews he
would never look a person square in the face, but
always gazed a little one side, round the corner, as it
were. One might have supposed he was demented
from this singular conduct. I inquired if this was so
of Mr. McKinlay, who had known him for ten years or
more, and he replied that he was always the same ;
that his mind was perfectly clear and unimpaired ; that
he was so absorbed in his devotions that he did not care
to hold any intercourse with the world or converse on
worldly topics, but gave his whole life and attention to
religion.
Father Salvidea was much beloved by the people,
who looked upon him as a saint on earth, on account of
the purity and excellence of his character. Among his
eccentricities was his custom, at meals, of mixing dif-
204 THE LAST OF THE SPANISH TRIESTS.
ferent kinds of food thoroag-hly together on one plate,
— meat, fish, vegetables, pie, pudding, sweet and sour —
a little of everything. After they were thoroughly
mingled, he would eat the preparation, instead of taking
the different dishes separately, or in such combinations
as were usual. This was accounted for by others as
being a continual act of penance on his part. In other
words, he did not care to enjoy his meals, and so made
them distasteful; partaking of food merely to maintain
existence. Whenever any ladies called on him, as they
frequently did, to make some little present as a mark of
their esteem, he never looked at them, but turned his
face away, and extending his hand to one side received
the gift, saying, " Vaiiios si, sefiora ; miichas gracias^ He
never offered his hand in salutation to a lady. At times,
in taking his walks for exercise in the vicinity of the
Mission, the priest was seen to touch his head lightly on
either side with a finger, throw his hands out with a
quick, spasmodic motion, and snap his fingers; as if cast-
ing out devils. On such occasions he was heard to ex-
claim, " Vete, satanas /" — some improper thought, as he
conceived, probably having entered his mind.
Resuming my business in Yerba Buena in April,
1845, I visited old custoniers around the bay, and was
very successful in making collections prior to and
during the killing season of that year; and I accu-
mulated many hides, bags of tallow and furs, and had
sold out the entire stock of goods by the time the " Don
Ouixote" arrived ag^ain in x^uijust, after havinof safelv
landed Micheltorena and his troops at San Bias.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
William Sturgis Hinckley Arrives in 1838 — He and Governor Alvarado become
Good Friends — A (Jood Joke — Hinckley goes to Callao — He Returns as the
owner of the Brig "Corsair"— He becomes a Permanent Resident, and Marries
— Is Elected Alcalde of the San Francisco District — Makes a Capable and
Popular Officer — He Constructs a Much-needed Bridge — ^A Survey of Verba
Buena is Ordered and Streets laid out — Dies in June, 1846 — Francisco
Guerrero becomes an Alcalde — Is afterwards Appointed Sub- Prefect— His
Good Nature to Spear and the Author while under Arrest — ^His Efficiency and
Impartiality as an Officer — He Secures a Land Grant at Half Moon Bay — Is
one of the Real Founders of San Francisco — His Murder and the Reason for it.
William Sturgis Hinckley joined Nathan Spear in
the latter part of 1838,, in business at Verba Buena.
Hinckley was a native of Hingham, Massachusetts,
nephew of William Sturgis, of Boston. He was an
educated man, of pleasant address. He had been
some vears en^aeed in business in the Sandwich Islands,
whence he came to this coast and traded awhile in
vessels, until he established himself at Verba Buena.
He was popular with both the foreign and the native
population. When I arrived at Santa Barbara, in May,
1838, Hinckley was there, and visited Alvarado's
headquarters frequently, the two being intimate friends.
Hinckley highly estimated Alvarado's talent and had
a warm esteem for him, which feeling was reciprocated
by the governor, who was in the habit of communica-
ting his plans to Hinckley confidentially. Alvarado
was much appreciated by intelligent foreigners, who
recognized his general superiority, he being an excel-
206 PRACTICAL JOKES IX 1 838.
lent looking man, and possessing- great geniality and
tact.
At this time Carillo was in active opposition to
the governor, seeking to oust him from his position.
Hinckley greatly assisted Alvarado with advice and sug-
gestions regarding his preparations to repress Carillo.
One evening they were engaged in private conversa-
tion in the governor's rooms, discussing their plans.
Alvarado had an one-eyed secretary, who was a fellow
capable and accomplished enough, with talent for writ-
ing official dispatches and papers, and a useful man,
but withal prying and inquisitive. Gas was not in use
in those days, and sperm and adamantine candles were
rare. Bullock and elk tallow candles were commonly
used for lights, with old-fashioned snuffers, having a
little square box attached to receive the wick when
snuffed off The secretary, on this occasion, every few-
minutes dodged into the room where Alvarado and
Hinckley were engaged in conversation, ostensibly for
for the purpose of snuffing the candles, showing thereby
his politeness and attention, but really to catch the
drift of the conversation and find out what was Pfoinor
on. He was so assiduous in the performance of his
self-imposed duty, that the two gentlemen presently
discovered hisintention. Not liking to be so frequentlv
interrupted, Hinckley, who was fond of a practical joke,
emptied the snuffers of the bits of burnt wick, and
poured in a little gunpowder (it being war time gun-
powder was handy), and the two gentlemen then retired
FIRST-ALCALDE HIXC KLKV. 20/
to a remote corner of the room. Soon after, the faithful
secretary came again and appHed the snuffers, when an
explosion followed that startled and nearly capsized him.
He immediately broke out of the room, and the two
gentlemen indulged in a burst of laughter. From the
adjoining apartments, the governor's aids and General
Castro hurried in, alarmed at first by the explosion, but
relieved by hearing the laughter that followed. On being
infornied, they joined in and added to the general merri-
ment. The secretary finally made his appearance and
shared in the fun. admitting that he had been victimized.
In 1839 Hinckley went to Callao and brought the
brig " Corsair," of which he was part owner and super-
cargo, to Yerba Buena, loaded with assorted merchan-
dise. In 1840 he became a permanent resident here. In
1 842 he married Dona Susana, daughter of Don Ygnacio
Martinez, his first wife having died in 1840 in Massa-
chusetts. In 1844 he was elected first-alcalde of the
district of San Francisco, headquarters at Yerba Buena.
Being well fitted for the office of alcalde, he discharged
the duties of the position in a manner very creditable to
himself and to the satisfaction of the Californians and
foreign residents.
On the block now bounded by Washington, Jack-
son, Montgomery and Kearny streets was a salt-water
lagoon, or little lake, connected with the bay by a small
creek. When the tide came in the lake was filled.
At all stages of the tide there was considerable water
remaining in it. To reach Clarke's point, to the north
208 CONSTRUCTS A REMARKABLE BRIDGE.
of the creek, the settled portion of the town being- to
the south of it, the people would have to g^et across the
best way they could, by wading, or jumping across in
some places. One of Captain Hinckley's acts as alcalde
was to cause the construction of a little bridge across the
creek, thereby adding much to the convenience of the
people who had occasion to go to the other side This
was regarded as a great public improvement, and people
came from far and near to look at and admire it, espec-
ially the native Californians, who arrived from the Mis-
sion and elsewhere, with their wives and children, to con-
template the remarkable structure.
During his administration as alcalde there were
two or three little disturbances among the lower orders
at Vioget's saloon and elsewhere, this saloon then being
rented to Juan Padillo, a Mexican. Alcalde Hinckley,
on being informed, would immediately go to the spot,
and raising his baston, command them in tones of au-
thority to desist from disturbance. Everything at once
became quiet, and the disorder ceased; showing the re-
spect with which they regarded the American alcalde
and his insignia of office.
Hinckley prevailed upon the prefect at Monterey
to order a survey of Yerba Buena. The survey was
made, and a plan of the town drawn and mapped, being
the first survey of the kind of any importance. He
took great interest in having the streets properly located
and the plan executed in the best manner. No names
at that time were given to any of the streets.
SUB-PREFECT FRANCISCO GUERRERO. 2O9
When Governor Micheltorena was opposed by Al-
varado and Castro, he was at first favored by Hinckley
as the legal governor of the department. Respecting
his own oath of office, he naturally felt it his duty to
stand by the regularly constituted authorities. How-
ever, when Alvarado had succeeded in turning the cur-
rent of popular feeling against Micheltorena, and had
roused the people to revolution, Hinckley could not re-
sist the movement, and joined the Alvarado party, be-
coming an active participant in its operations.
During the Bear Flag excitement Hinckley stood
firmly by the Mexican government, being still alcalde,
and was outspoken in its favor.
After the expiration of his term of office, January
I, 1846, he retained his friendship for the Californians
and Mexicans. Before his death, which occurred in
June, 1846, talk of war between Mexico and the United
States was prevalent. The sloop-of-war '' Portsmouth,"
Captain Montgomery, was then lying at Yerba Buena,
and though Hinckley was an American, his feeling in
favor of the Mexican rule was so strong that he used to
have some warm discussions on the subject with Cap-
tain Montgomery and other officers of the vessel.
P>ancisco Guerrero I regarded as one of the most
important men in the district. He was a Mexican by
birth. Shortly after I made his acquaintance, in the
year 1838, I found him to be an intellectual man.
About 1839 he was made alcalde, or jiiez de paz, and a
few years after, was appointed sub-prefect. In these
2IO THE SETTLEMENT OF FOREIGNERS FAVORED.
offices he performed his duties most strictly, but not
discourteously. On the occasion of the detention of
Spear and myself at the time of the general arrest of
the foreigners, he came in person to Spear's house and
mentioned in the politest manner that he had an order
from headquarters to arrest us, which he very much re-
gretted, saying that Spear and myself need not feel any
alarm ; that everybody knew us, and that he would go
with Spear part of the way, as if they were traveling
together, and that no indignity should be put upon him
as a prisoner ; making the exercise of authority as light
and as little disagreeable as possible. And so in the
other arrests, he was so polite that those who were de-
tained could not be otherwise than pleased with him.
He knew them all and showed no domineering spirit,
but treated them as friends rather than otherwise, and
at the same time he did his duty strictly.
Guerrero encouraged the immigration of foreigners
to California and tlieir settlement, and defended them
in their ri^rhts after thev ^ot here. He saw that the
country must necessarily pass from the control of Mexico.
In his administration of office he gave great satisfac-
tion, showing no partiality tohis countrymen over foreign-
ers, treating all with equal justice. Albeit a thorough
Mexican, and loving his country, he had, as he often
expressed it, no dislike to Americans. He admired
them as a progressive people, and saw that they would
ultimately control. On one occasion, in conversation
with him, I suggested that he had better look out for a
211 FOND OF I.rrTLE DANCES.
rainy day, and secure some land for himself; that Gov-
ernor Alvarado, in consideration of his official services,
would irive him a erant, and that the land about the
bav of San Francisco would some day be valuable.
He replied that he had already taken steps to secure
a grant at Half Moon bay, five or six leagues in ex-
tent ; that he had received a permit from the govern-
ment to occupy it, and in due time would get his title.
He was very social in his nature and fond of little
dances, which were frequently had at his house, join-
ing in the festivity with great enthusiasm.
Guerrero was one of the few real founders of San
Francisco. A street at the Mission was named after
him. In 185 1 he was murdered, in broad daylight, at
the corner of Mission and Twelfth streets, by a F'rench-
man, who came uo behind him, mounted on horseback,
and struck him on the back of the head with a slung-
shot. It is supposed that parties interested in the San-
tillan land claim were the instigators of the murder.
They wished to get Guerrero out of the way, as he
would have been a damaging witne.ss against their
claim ; being afraid of his influence and ability and in-
dependence of character ; knowing he would not hesi-
tate to expose the fraudulent nature of the claim. His
widow is still living, and maintains her fine and digni-
fied appearance and the graceful walk of her earlier
years.
CHAPTER XXIX.
A Record of Vessel Arrivals at Verba Buena and Monterey — Method of Collect-
ing Cargoes — How Hides were Cured and Loaded Aboard — Whalers come
into Port for Water and Other Supplies— The sort of Vegetables to be
Planted for the Whalers — Reception given to Deserters from on Shipboard^ —
Farmers Anticipate the Arrival of the Whaleships — Local Trade with them
^Ingenious Manner of Concealing Goods from Custom House Inspection
— Politics Excitedly Discussed — Captain Eliab Grimes Relates an Experi-
ence — An Expression of Yankee Pluck — The Captain Secures a Land Grant
—His Death.
There is not in existence, to my knowledge, any
maritime or commercial report of arrivals, or statement
of the volume of business, in the port of San Francisco
(Yerba Buena) for the two decades preceding the latter
part of the year 1846, at which time the United States
crovernment established a custom house here, the first
collector being appointed by Commodore Stockton,
commander of the naval squadron.
It has been my purpose in these pages to furnish
as complete a list as possible of the arrivals of vessels
in the years from 1831 to 1846, both at Yerba Buena
and at Monterey, the capital, where the only custom
house in the department was located.
The Boston ships which came here in early days
with goods to sell, and took back hides, remained about
two years, going up and down the coast several times.
The round trip from San Diego, touching at San Pedro,
Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, San Simeon, Monte-
HIDE AND TALLOW WAREHOUSES. 213
rey, Santa Cruz and Verba Buena, occupied three or
four months ; so that during- the two years they made
seven or eight trips of this kind. seHincr their nroods,
collecting hides and tallow at different points, and on
reaching San Diego deposited their collection of hides
and tallow in warehouses, each of the vessels having
a house for that purpose.
At that port the hides were prepared for shipment
by soaking them for twenty-four or forty- eight hours in
large vats of brine, to preserve them against the attacks
of moths and other insects. They were then spread out
on the smooth sandy beach to dry, and afterward hung
on ropes and beaten by the sailors with a sort of flail, a
contrivance made of a wooden stick three and a halt
feet long, to which was fastened a strip of hide and a
short piece of wood of heavier kind than the other, to
swing freely. Armed with these beating-sticks, two sail-
ors passed along each side the row of hides and beat
them thoroughly, removing all the dust and sand.
After two years, a full cargo having been gathered,
and stored at San Diego, the ship was loaded, carry-
ing to Boston 38,000 to 45,000 hides. In loading the
ves.sel, a rude press, made of boards and worked with
ropes and pullies, was used to press the hides firmly to-
gether in the hold. I saw this done in 1831 at San
Diego, when the cargo of the bark " Volunteer " was
transferred to the bark " Louisa." The vessels trading
between California and Peru took no hides to Callao. If
they collected any they exchanged them with the hide
2 14 SPRINGS OF GOOD WATER.
ships for tallow, no tallow going to Boston. Tallow
vessels also had houses at San Diego for the deposit of
bags of that article. The tallow was used in Peru for
making soap and candles and for consumption in the
silver mines of the country.
Prior to 1843, whalers from the Atlantic coast
would occasionally touch at a California port, either
San Diego, San Pedro, Santa Barbara, San Luis
Obispo, Monterey, or the bay of San P^rancisco, for
supplies of beef and vegetables, and for water. In 1843.
'44, '45, a considerable number of whalers came to San
Francisco bay, and anchored off Saucelito ; as that was
a convenient place to obtain water, Captain Richardson
invited them to come and take what they wanted from
his springs, which were reached from the beach. The
shipping was generally supplied with water from those
springs. There was also a spring of good water at
about where the northeast corner of Clay and Mont-
gomery streetsis now, from which whalers and merchant-
men sometimes got a supply. As many as thirty or
forty whalers were in the bay at one time during each of
these years. They were not recjuired to enter at the
custom house. They generally had on board a few
thousand dollars' worth of goods for trading, and were
allowed by the custom house authorities to exchange
goods for supplies for their own use, at any point where
they touched along the coast, to the extent of $400,
but were not allowed to sell goods for cash.
After 1842 there was an officer of the customs sta-
tioned at Verba Buena to keep a general oversight of
VEGETABLES CROWN IN LARGE QUANTITIES. 215
the shippiiio. The whalers, however, became so numer-
ous in the bay that he found it impossible to attend to
them all, not having guards sufficient to place one on
each.
The farmers were much benefited by these vessels,
inasmuch as they obtained from them goods at a cheap
rate, in exchange for supplies. In consequence of there
being so little supervision over them the whalers traded
with the farmers and others for supplies, freely, not ad-
hering to the $400 rule, but doing pretty much as they
pleased.
In making my usual trading expeditions, the ran-
cheros whom I met would ask me if I thought as many
of the whalers would come another year as were there
then. I told them I thought even more would come,
as they had been encouraged by finding good supplies
of vegetables, and would probably come again and
advise other ships to come. They asked my advice as
to what they should plant for sale to the ships another
year. I told them to plant Irish potatoes, cabbages,
pumpkins and onions, as those were the vegetables the
vessels mainly depended upon.
Among those who were most active and energetic
in furnishing supplies of this kind, and interested in
planting for the purpose, were Don Vicente Peralta, the
Castros of San Pablo, Don Antonio Maria Peralta, Don
Ygnacio Peralta, and Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo, all
on the east side of the bay. The Californians, although
mainly engaged in cattle raising, were fond of agricul-
2l6
MECHANICS LEAVE THE WHALESHIPS.
ture, and would have engaged in it extensively had there
been any market for their products. When an oppor-
tunity presented itself, as in the case of supplying the
whaleships, they availed of it, and commenced planting.
The vessels usually remained from four to six
weeks getting in their supplies, which took some time,
as they had to send out their boats to the different ran-
chos about the bay, ihere being no produce merchants
in those days. They were delayed also in painting
and repairing, and waiting, perhaps, for the proper
time to arrive when whales would be in season at
the whaling ground. Most of the crews were given
their liberty on shore, and a sailor would occasionally
desert, and settle among the rancheros ; if a good man,
industrious, and willing to work, especially if he had
some mechanical skill at carpentry or other useful in-
dustry, he was encouraged by the rancheros to stay, and
was treated with kindness ; but if indolent and worth-
less fellows deserted, while kindly treated, they were not
encouraged to remain, but were presented with horses,
and perhaps some clothes, and persuaded to ride away
to some other rancho.
As the time for the whaling fleet to visit the port
approached, the farmers who had raised a supply of
vegetables looked forward to their coming, hoping to
dispose of their produce, and obtain goods in exchange
at a low rate.
In 1843 or '44 a young Irishman named O'Far-
rell deserted from an American whaleship lying at Sau-
OFFICIAL SURVEY OF SAN FRANCISCO. 2 17
celito, having been employed as a cooper on board,
and went to the Mission of San Rafael, then under the
charge of Timothy Murphy, as administrator. From
there he went to Bodega, bought a large tract of land,
and engaged in cattle raising. He subsequently assisted
as civil engineer in the survey of a portion of the city
of San Francisco, as laid down on the present offi-
cial map. Afterward he was elected to the State Leg-
islature from Sonoma county ; for one term held the
important position of State Harbor Commissioner ;
and Jasper CF^arrell's name is prominent in the history
of the state.
While acting as the agent of Paty, McKinlay &
Co., at Verba Buena, in 1843. '44 and '45, I occupied
a large adobe building on the .spot which is now the
west .side of Dupont street, near Clay. Requiring only a
portion of it for my store and residence, three large
rooms remained unoccupied. When the custom's agent
Benito Dias, (who was not very scrupulous) came to
reside at Verba Buena, I invited him to occupy these
rooms with his family, free of charge ; and he did so.
He had under his command four boatmen, and a four-
oared boat with which he went all around the bay to
visit vessels. I was on friendly terms with him, and
at times after he had come home for the day, I would
request and obtain the use of his boat and crew for the
evening, he asking me no questions. Thus provided,
I visited the whaleships, and purchased goods from
them at a very low figure, white and brown cottons,
calicos, handkerchiefs, and other cheap stuffs, paying
2l8 BREAD IN CASKS.
cash. My arrangements with Paty, McKinlay & Co..
were such that while I was conducting their business,
I was allowed to trade on my own account, if such
would not interfere with their trade. My goods
were bought and sold for cash, while theirs were sold
only for hides and tallow. Although money was
scarce, I was enabled to sell articles so low that the
rancheros managed to raise the funds to pay for them.
In securing commodities from the whaleships I had
them landed by the captains in large water casks, each
end of the cask being filled with Boston pilot bread to
the depth of eighteen or twenty inches. The casks
were landed on the beach, and were supposed to be
empty, but if any official felt curious enough to make an
examination, and open the cask, the pilot bread would
be seen. It was common to purchase bread supplies
from the vessels for use on shore ; there were no bakeries,
and the pilot bread was much liked. It would therefore
appear all right to the inquiring officers. Nathan Spear,
William G. Rae, William A. Leidersdorff and others
doing business at Verba Buena got goods from the
whalers by the same method, and considerable trade was
carried on in this covert manner. During these two or
three years, I made outside of my regular salary from
my employers two or three thousand dollars.
The revenue regulations were so little respected and
so loosely enforced, that this traffic with whalers was
sate. In 1845, the whaleship " Magnolia," Captain Sim-
mons, was at Verba Buena. He was afterward of the
A DEARTH OP^ AMUSEMENTS. 219
firm of Simmons, Hutchinson & Co., at San b>ancisco ;
in 1849 one of the heaviest houses on the coast, doing
a large business.
Captain Jim Smith, of the whaleship " Hibernia."
from New Bedford, was here in 1844. He afterward
established a Hne of packets between San Francisco
and Honoluhi. Captain Smith was a Democrat, and
Captain EHab Grimes, before mentioned in this narra-
tive, was a Whig, and in 1844 they met in Nathan
Spear's parlor, which was a resort of prominent mer-
chants and strangers in the town, and often engaged
in very warm political discussions, both being men
of intelligence, aptness of expression, and erudition
in the history and doctrines of their political parties.
Each ably defended his party and its men and meas-
ures, the discussions lasting usually several hours and
attracting an interested audience of fifteen or twenty
persons — captains, supercargoes and merchants, to
whom anything of the kind was a great treat, in the
dearth of other amusements.
Captain Smith had the advantage of Captain
Grimes in keeping his temper and being always cool
and collected, while Grimes would get very much heated
and would swear furiously at his adversary. In that
remote part of the country forty-five years ago, in that
little Mexican town of about seventy or eighty inhab-
itants, the influence of the fierce contest between Dem-
ocrats and Whigs which was being waged all over the
Union was felt and had an effect.
220 NO SURRENDER.
Captain Eliab Grimes, during the war with Eng-
land in 1812, was a young- heutenant of an American
privateer, an hermaphrodite brig, which did great ser-
vice in our cause, and captured many prizes, burning the
vessels and landing the officers and crews at some con-
venient point, after securing what money and other val-
uables were on board. So successful was the privateer
that each officer acquired a little fortune. Giving an
account of his experiences on board, he said that one
morning thev saw a vessel far oft" flying the English
flag, supposed to be a merchantman, but on approach-
ing, she proved to be a British man-of-war, and a fast
sailer, which bore down upon them ; a stiff breeze blow-
ing at the time. The privateer began to run away as
fast as her sails would carry her, but the gale increas-
ing, the war vessel made better headway, and their
capture seemed imminent. Fortunately, the wind light-
ened, giving the American vessel an advantage, as she
could sail faster than her pursuer in a light wind, and
toward night she increased the distance between them
and escaped.
William G. Rae, who was present when the cap-
tain related the adventure, remarked, with a touch of
national pride, he being an Englishman : " Captain
Grimes, if the wind hadn't moderated, you would have
had to surrender the brig." "No!" retorted Grimes,
flashing up ; " I'll be d — d if we would ; we would
h'civv. scuttled the old brig and simk her before we would
have surrendered." It is true; their decision and res-
olution would have proved unconquerable.
(CRIMES GOOD MANAGEMENT. 22 1
Rae and Grimes were on very friendly terms.
They were given much to discussion, and for liours to-
gether opposed each other in wordy controversy about
national matters, the American Revolution, the last war
with Great Britain, ably defending to the utmost each
his own country. Rae, having a liking for the Ameri-
cans, was not offended with Grimes' ebullitions, but
took them all in good part, carrying on the discussion
mainly as an intellectual pastime and for the entertain-
ment of the listeners, who enjoyed the debates.
Captain Grimes was an intimate friend of my
father. Thev made several vovai>-es tofjether, one as
passenger in the other's vessel, and my only brother
was named after Captain Grimes. The captain was a
noble-hearted man, very much esteemed and loved both
at Honolulu and Yerba Buena. In 1841 or 1842 he
obtained from Alvarado a grant of eleven leagues of
land near Sacramento city, which afterward came into
the possession of Sam Norris, and was known as the
Norris ranch.
When Captain Grimes died, in 1848, he had 16,000
or 18,000 head of rodeo cattle on his ranch, obtained
in these few years by his good management, system and
skill. He was attentive to details, such as having the
right proportion of bulls to cows. I merely allude to
this by way of comparing the American and Califor-
nian styles of management. His funeral was attended
by the people of all the surrounding country, who came
to pay the last tribute of respect and affection to his
memory.
CHAPTER XXX.
Tlie First Discovery of Gold — Where and by Whom Discovered — It serves as
Currency — Large Amounts of the Metal in Circulation — Promoting the
Immigration of Women to Equalize the Sexes — Inducements for Voung Men
to Marry Early — The Draft of Young Men for the Army Relentless — An
Anecdote of the Draft — A Flight to Avoid it — The Draft deemed Needless —
Salmon Catching — The Occupation made Profitable — Nathan Spear the
Originator of Salmon Fishing for Commerce — Parrott's 111 Luck — His Vessel
Wrecked — No Lives Lost — Part of the Cargo Saved — The Benefit of Packing
Goods Securely — Looting Goods —Captain J. H. R. Cooper's Share in the
Spoils.
The first discovery of gold in California was in
1840 in the valley of San Fernando, in the present
county of Los Ano^eles. It was made by some Mexi-
cans, from Sonora, who were passing through going
north. They were familiar with the gold placers in their
own country, had their attention attracted to the local-
ity, and made the discovery. A good deal of gold from
this source found its way to Los Angeles into the hands
of the storekeepers. Henry Melius, in trading along
the coast, used to visit Los Angeles, his vessel lying
meanwhile at San Pedro. In his business with the
merchants there he collected about $5,000 in gold dust,
which was of fine quality, in scales as from placer digg-
ings. Other merchants also collected some. Melius
remitted $5,000 in gold dust to Boston by the ship
"Alert," and also made other similar remittances.
I saw at Yerba Buena, and handled, some of the dust
which Melius had obtained. That year and the next,
TFIE MONEY IN CIRCULATION. 323
probably eif^hty to one hundred thousand dollars worth
of gold dust was taken from these diggings. The
finding of gold continued there for several years, up to
ihit time of what is known as the bio- aold discovers in
the Sacramento valley, but the results were small.
The coin generally used by the merchants was
Spanish and Mexican doubloons (gold) ; also American
gold coin. Silver money of Mexican, Peruvian and Unit-
ed States coin was likewise in circulation. I never saw
in California an\ of the paper money in use in the East.
In the early days, while Californian was still under
Spanish ride, the proportion of men who had im-
migrated to the new country was largely in excess of
the women. To equalize the difference, and furnish
wives for the single men, more particularly for the sol-
diers, a representation was made by the governor of the
department to the Spanish authorities of the facts,
whereupon the home government made arrangements
for the conveyance to California of a considerable num-
ber of women of Spanish extraction, from Mexico.
Some came by water, by vessels chartered by the Gov-
ernment expressly for this purpose, and others came by
land, imder official auspices.
The motive was to prevent, so far as possible, the
mixing of the Spanish race in California with the na-
tive Indians of the country. The Spaniards were nat-
urally proud of their own blood, and wanted to keep it
uncontaminated. Hence this movement on the part of
the government. The want of women was thus sup-
2 24 EARLY MARRIAGES.
plied in a measure, but as late as 1838, and along up to
1846, the men exceeded the women in number, and
some mixture with the Indians occurred.
It was customary for the young men of the Cali-
fornians to marry early. In this they w-ere encouraged
by their parents, partly because they desired to have
the sparsely settled country populated as rapidly as pos-
sible, and partly also that the young men might thereby
escape being drafted into the army. Under the Mexi-
can law the commanding general of the army had
power to levy upon the people for as many men as he
might want to recruit his military force. From time to
time, he designated such young men of different families
as he chose to be taken for the purpose. It was noth-
ing less than most arbitrary conscription. There was
no redress. The rancheros were compelled to give up
their sons when called upon, however wealthy, as money
would not be accepted in lieu of the services of the
young men.
The unmarried were only taken, the commanding
general being so considerate as to leave the married
men to care for their families. The motive for early
marriage, therefore', was strong ; in frequent instances
boys of sixteen and seventeen taking wives unto them-
selves. The designs of the commander were often thus
frustrated, and draft evaded by young men who were
on the alert to escape military service.
A squad of ten soldiers, commanded by a sergeant,
was sent out in 1838 by General Vallejo, from Sonoma,
A CONSCRTPTION SCARE. 225
for the purpose of picking up recruits at the ranchos.
A young man living in the vicinity of the general's head-
quarters getting information of this movement, and of
the direction in which the squad was going, rode off
post-haste to Suscol and across the National Ranch. As
fast as one horse tired he lassoed another. Continuing
on his course he reached the Straits of Carquinez, where
he abandoned horse and saddle, and was quickly ferried
across in a title bolsa by the I ndians. Taking his chances
of lassoeing on foot one of Don Ygnacio Martinez' fine
horses, rather a difficult feat, he rapidly pursued his
journey until he reached San Pablo. There he gave in-
formation of the coming of the recruiting squad to his
friend Castro, then a boy fifteen or sixteen years old,
who immediately mounted a fleet horse and rode to the
rancho of his neighbor, Martinez, and informed his son
of about the same age, that the conscripting officer
was coming. The two then rode off rapidly south-
ward, changing their horses when necessary, and
stopping at the ranch houses along for food and a
little rest, until they reached the old Mission of San Juan
Bautista, which was located in a wide valley of remark-
able beauty, half way between Castroville and Gilroy.
At the Mission they were within a district under com-
mand of General Jose Castro, who was a relative of
one of the boys, and could feel at ease. They re-
mained there until they thought it safe to return home.
The following year both of these young men were
married. Castro to the sister of his friend Martinez, and
the latter to a daughter of Don Jose Joaquin Moraga,
15
226 AN ARMY NOT NEEDED.
at the time owner of the valuable Moraga grant of six
leagues.
The Californian parents had dread of their sons
being drafted into the armv, and the vounof men them-
selves had no liking for it. Some of the more wealthy
rancheros had pre-arranged and reliable communi-
cations with their relations or friends living in So-
noma, who gave them information whenever a squad of
soldiers was about to be sent out to gather up recruits,
and of the direction the squad would take. At such
times young- men w^ould be sent off for a month or two
from the rancho, either hunting orame, or to the ofreat
San Joaquin valley to lasso some of the numerous wild
horses there. The farmers were peace-loving men, and
disliked to have their children forced into the army.
They would protest, in the presence ot their friends,
against General Vallejo's or Castro's taking their boys
for soldiers, asking what they wanted of them when the
countrv was at peace, not at war or likely to be, saying
that the general had a hundred or two soldiers already,
which was a force amply sufficient to send out to cap-
ture or chastise wild Indians, and that any further in-
crease must be only for the purpose of gratifying per-
sonal ambition and love of power and display ; that if
the Americans came to take the country, if they ever
should, the few hundred soldiers he might have under
him would not prevent the carrying out of their designs.
After Captain Sutter bad settled at the fort New
Helvetia, he was in the habit, at times, of sending
fresh salmon to Yerba Buena.
FIRST SALMON FISHERY. 227
The fish were fresh -salted or smoked. Nathan
Spear, who was an epicure, and lover of good thhigs,
appreciated these fish very highly. The idea suggested
itself to his mind that something profitable might be
done in salmon fishing on the Sacramento river. Not
wishing to trespass upon Captain Sutter's ground, al-
though, of course, Sutter had no exclusive rij^ht to the
fish in the river, Spear wrote to him on the subject, and
received encouragement to go up and engage in fishing
there tor salmon. He made several trips in 1840 and
'41 in the schooner "Isabel," camping on the bank of
the Sacramento in a comfortable tent, and superintended
the catching of the fish by the crew of his schooner
and by Indians experienced in fishing, furnished by
Captain Sutter. He took large quantities of salmon,
filling the hold of the " Isabel " with fish packed in bulk;
transported them to Yerba Buena, and disposed of them
at satisfactory prices, packed in barrels and kegs of dif-
ferent sizes, to visiting vessels and to residents, making
a good profit. To Nathan Spear, therefore, is du(; the
credit of having inaugurated the salmon fishery on this
coast as a business, and of developing, to a considera-
ble extent, an enterprise which has since grown to
large proportions. On the last trip to the river in
salmon catching Mrs. Spear accompanied her husband.
While John Parrott was United States commercial
agent (consul) at Mazatlan in 1844 or '45, and also
engaged in trade, an English brig named the " North
Star" arrived there from England, with a cargo consigned
228 "NORTH star" WRECKED IN CARMEL BAY.
to Parrott, the invoice cost of which was $120,000.
The duties on this cargo would have amounted to
that sum ; probably more. Parrott wished to save
payinor a large proportion of them, and thinking he
could do better by entering the vessel at Monterey,
than at Mazatlan, he hoisted sail, and started for the
former place. Just before reaching Monterey, the
vessel went ashore at Punta de los Lobos, Carmel
bay, and became a total wreck. All persons on
board were saved; also a large part of the cargo,
one-half ]or two-thirds. The goods were originally
intended to be taken from Mazatlan into the interior
of Mexico, upon mules, this being the only mode ot
transportation, and had been packed in E^ngland with
reference to that, in not very bulky square packages,,
admirably put up, solid and compact, and encased with
water-proof wrapping. So securely were they covered^
that although many of them were taken from the water
in the hold of the vessel, and others picked up while
floating about the bay, yet the contents were not in the
least injured, and were in as good a condition as if they
had been landed from a vessel at the wharf. When
the wreck became known at Monterey, the people of
that place flocked by hundreds to the spot, and com-
menced saving as much of the cargo as possible. There
being nothing to prevent, each became a wrecker on
his own account, and saved what he could for his own
benefit.
Captain J. R. B. Cooper was successful in securing
a large amount of these goods. He took down from
TWO AMERICANS. 229
Monterey a number of the old-foshioned, solid-wheel
wagons, drawn by oxen, the creaking and screeching of
the vehicles, for want of grease on the axles, being
heard for miles. With the aid of sailors whom he
brought to the wreck he secured a large share of the
spoils, many wagon loads ; took them to Monterey, and
made a small fortune out of the proceeds. Cooper was
an old sea captain, and understood the business.
Others saved smaller quantities. The custom house
permitted them to be taken as " damaged goods," with-
out payment of duty, although, no damage was ap-
parent on opening the packages. The landing of the
goods was attended with great risk and danger, three
of the native Californians losing their lives at this time
— Jose Antonio Rodriquez, Francisco Gonzalez and
Francisco Mesa. None of the wrecked goods was re-
covered by Mr. Parrott. His protests and demands
were ignored. It was a scramble, and he could not
procure men or teams.
In 1840 or '4.1 there arrived at Yerba Buena from
Mazatlan two Americans, one named Hirnian Teal, a
merchant ; the other Mr. Titcomb, his clerk. Teal
brouQfht on a vessel about twentv thousand dollars'
worth of Mexican goods; such as silk and cotton
rebosas, serapes, ponchos, mangos, costly and ordinary ;
silver mounted and gilt spurs, saddle.s, ornamented and
ordinary, armas de pelo, or riding robes for protecting
the legs and body up to the waist ; silver headstalls for
horses, hair bridle reins, and other fancy and ornamental
goods ; an assortment of Mexican products. Teal opened
230 FROM NEW MEXICO.
a Store and sold these goods to the hacienderos, princi-
pally. Many were also sold to Captain Sutter, who
paid for them in land-otter and beaver skins. Teal
was here about two years disposing of his merchandise,
and he made probably $30,000 out of the venture ; and
had also boucrht some of Limantour's goods, which
he sold with his own.
I have heard him speak highly of the people of
New Mexico with whom he had lived, in respect to
their honesty and fair dealing; that during the whole
mercantile course there, of several years, during which
he dealt largely with them, giving them credit for their
purchases when required, he never lost a dollar in all
his transactions. They were kind and hospitable ;
their kindness was genuine, and not affected. He
said the happiest part of his life was spent among them.
He obtained his goods for his store at Santa Fe, mostly
from St. Louis, overland, commencing there with three
or four thousand dollars. The twenty thousand dollars'
worth of goods he brought from Mazatlan to Verba
Buena showed how successful he had been in New
Mexico. At Verba Buena he was much respected by
Spear, Rae, and other prominent merchants, and liked
by the people in general. He was fond of chess,
and also made frequently one of a party at whist,
playing chess in the daytime with Rae, and whist in the
evening. After selling his goods here, Teal returned
to New Mexico. Both he and Titcomb were originally
from New England.
CHAPTER XXXI.
Gold known lo K\ist in the Sacramento Valley long before the Discovery at
Sutter's Mill — Indians brought it into the Missions — They told the Padres
Where it was Found — A Coujile of Priests — They Differ in Character —
Are both Friendly to the Author — Father Mercado Understood Good Liv-
ing — Both Priests speak Concerning the Existence of Gold — They could not
be Convinced that it would be Proper to Publish the Secret to the Worlds
An Old and Faithful Aboriginee gives Information of an Intended Indian
Outbreak — The report Doubted — It is Contirmetl by a Sudden and Unex-
pected Attack — Three Men Killed — Indians Break into the Mouse — The
Mistress saved by the Interposition of the Old Indian Woman — She is Dis-
robed and Turned Loose — The Daughters taken into Captivity— The
Mother's Brutal Treatment— Her Little Son spreads news of the Savage Per-
formances — Further Fiendish Acts Threatened —The general Consternation.
The existence of orold in the Sacramento valley
and vicinity was known to the Padres long prior to
what is commonly known as the gold discovery of 1848.
Many of the Indians connected with the Missions were
from that part of the country, and after becoming civil-
ized, they were permitted to go to and fro between the
Missions and their old homes, leave of ab.sence being
granted for the purpose. Sometimes on returning to
the Mission after a visit of this kind, an Indian would
bring little pieces of shining metal to the priest, ap-
proach him with an air of mystery indicating he
had something to communicate, and display what he
had found. The priest was to the Indian the em-
bodiment of all wisdom and knowledge, and naturally
the one to whom he would disclose anything of im-
portance. Probably he had a suspicion that these
232 PARTICLES OF GOLD.
shining bits were gold, having some indefinite idea of
the value of that metal. He would be asked where he
had obtained it, and would name the spot, a certain
slough or river bottom, where he had picked it up, or
say that in digging for some root he had unearthed it.
Upon getting all the information the Indian could give,
the priest, with a solemn air, would caution the Indian
not to impart to anyone else knowledge of the discovery,
assurinor him if he further divulijed such information
the wrath of God would be visited upon him. Having
the most entire confidence in the priest and in every-
thing he said, the Indian never uttered a word in re-
gard to finding the gold, and kept the matter secret in
his own breast.
In my business trips about the bay of San Fran-
cisco and neighborhood I visited the INIissions, and
became intimately acquainted with Father INIuro, of
the Mission of San Jose, and Father Mercado, of the
Mission of Santa Clara. Both these priests always
welcomed me. Father Mercado, whenever I was in
the neighborhood transacting my business with the peo-
ple, would send a messenger for me to come and dine
with him. His table was bountifully supplied ; and dur-
ing Lent, when meat was forbidden, he had every-
thing else that was allowable, fish of different kinds,
eggs cooked in various styles, and little delicacies of
one kind and another, furnishing a meal of which a
prince might have partaken with the greatest satisfac-
tion.
BRILLIANT CONVERSATION.
-J.->
The priests naturally had confidence in the mer-
chants who supplied them with goods and whose posi-
tion gave them influence, and it was through theni that
they had comunication with the world outside.
Father Muro, while I was visiting him along in
1843 or 1844, at the time I was agent of Paty, McKin-
lay & Co. at Yerba Buena, mentioned to me his knowl-
edge of the existence of gold in the Sacramento valley
as a great secret, requiring me to promise not to divulge
it. I have never mentioned it to this day to anyone.
Afterward, in conversation with Father Mercado, the
same subject was gradually and cautiously broached, and
he confided to me his knowledge of the existence of
gold in the same locality. Both of the priests stated
that their information was obtained from Indians.
Father IMercado vvas a brilliant conversationalist, and
talked with the greatest fluency, in a steady stream of
discourse, hour after hour ; and I greatly enjoyed hear-
ing him. After he had imparted the news of gold in
the Sacramento valley, I would interrupt the discourse,
and, for the sake of argument, suggest that it would
be better to make the matter known to induce Ameri-
cans and others to come here, urging that with their
enterprise and skill, they would rapidly open and de-
veloi) the country, build towns, and engage in number-
less undertakings which would tend to the enrichment
and prosperity of the country, increase the value of
lands, enhance the price of cattle, and benefit the
people. He would answer that the immigration would
234 INDIAN OUTBREAK.
be dangerous ; that they would pour in by thousands
and overrun the country ; Protestants would swarm
here, and the Catholic religion would be endangered:
the work of the Missions would be interfered with,
and as the Californians had no means of defense, no
navy nor army, the Americans would soon obtain su-
preme control ; that they would undoubtedly at some
time come in force, and all this would happen ; but if no
inducements were offered, the change might not take
place in his time.
I never heard from any one, except the two priests,
of gold in Northern California prior to its discovery in
1848 at Sutter's mill. In the year 1851, I, with others,
made an expedition into lower California from San Di-
ego in search of gold. There information had been
given by Indians to priests under similar circumstances.
About the year 1837 there was an Indian outbreak
in what is now San Diego county. A family by the
nanie of Ybarra, consisting of the father, the mother,
two young daughters, and a son about twelve years of
age, lived at the rancho of San Ysidro. They had in
their employ an old Indian woman, who had been chris-
tianized at the Mission, a very faithful and good woman,
Aconiadre to her mistress, the godmother of one of the
Indian woman's children. This»relatibn was frequently
assumed by the California ladies, it being a mandate
of the Catholic Church everywhere, that any child that
is christened shall be attended by a godfather and god-
mother, and the Californians performed this religious
I
PREPARED FOR ATTACK. 235
duty toward the children of the poorer classes, includ-
ing the Indians. The serving woman got information
of an attack upon the rancho which had been planned
by Indians in the mountains, and a week before the
occurrences here mentioned she warned the family of
the approach. She urged and begged that they at once
remove to the Presidio of San Diego for protection.
Her mistress was anxious to follow the advice, but
Ybarra himself discarded it. He did not believe that
the Indians contemplated a movement. The Calitor-
nians were a brave people, especially in opposition to the
Indians, whether they went out in pursuit of them to
recover stolen horses, or otherwise. They were always
prepared to resist an attack by them in their own homes,
and did not fear them, but considered that three or four.
or eight or ten of their number were sufficient to van-
quish ten times that many Indians. Ybarra had with
him two vaqueros on the ranch, and did not think it
necessary to pay heed to the statement of the woman,
who, the night before the attack, repeated with em-
phasis, her advice for the family to leave, saying the next
day the Indians would surely be there and carry out
their plans. The next morning at nine o'clock, while
Ybarra and his vaqueros were at the corral, about [50
yards from the house, engaged in lassoeing horses, with
the intention of starting for .San Diego, the Indians
stealthily approached, to the number of seventy-five or
one hundred. The three men in the corral, seeing them
very near, immediately ran toward the house to secure
236 MISCREANT SAVAGES.
arms. This design, however, was thwarted by a Htde
Indian boy employed in the family, who, seeing them
coming as they neared the house, shut and barred the
door and prevented them from entering. He must
have had knowledge of the designs of the Indians, and
been in complicity with them, as by this act of the little
villain, the three unarmed men were left outside at the
mercy of the miscreant savages, and were speedily killed.
I he Indians then broke into the house, and made a
movement immediately to kill Doiia Juana, the mistress,
but the old Indian woman defended her at the peril of
her own life; interceded with the Indians and suppli-
cated them to spare her mistress. This they did. The
two daughters were also captured by the Indians and
made prisoners. All the houses of the rancho were
burned. The mother was ordered by the savages to
leave the house, and go on foot to San Diecro. She
set forth entirely disrobed. On approaching San Di-
ego Mission she was clothed by a friendly woman, who
came out and met her. In proceeding through a wheat
field on the rancho she met her little son, who had gone
out in the morning and had not encountered the sav-
ages. He now learned from his mother of the murder
ot his father and the two vaqueros, and the capture of
his sisters. He was sent ahead to give information of
the attack to the first Californian he might meet.
News of what had happened was immediately com-
numicated to the Rancho Tia Juana, owned and occu-
pied by Don Santiago Arguello, a beautiful piece of
KRRiHT AT TIA jUANA. 237
land having a fine stream of living water running-
through it. At that time several California families
were encamped there, spending a portion of the sum-
mer ; the Bandinis, xAlvarados and others. There were
also several young ladies and girls, one of them Miss
Estudillo.
At the Rancho Tia Juana the intelligence created
much consternation, and the camps of the several
families were immediately broken up. They proceeded
to San Diego, accompanied by the Arguello family, who
took with them as many of their horses as they conven-
iently could. The Indians shortly after reached the
place, burned the houses, and secured the stock which
the owner had left behind in the fields.
CHAPTER XXXII.
Mow the Freaks of an Inebriated Man Frightened the Indians off — The Indians
Pursued — An Indian Spy is Captured — Tells of the Friqht Occasioned to the
Indians, and is Shot — An Attempt to Recapture the Daughters Fails — The
Brothers Wounded and Compelled to Retreat — The Girls never Recovered —
Further Indian Exploits — The Savages are Chastised — Residents at San
Diego in 1838 — Miss Alvarado — Her Knowledge of the Indian Language
Enables Ilcr to Detect a Fiendish Plot — The Indian Plan for a Massacre — A
Company Organized for Defense — The Conspirators Lassoed and Secured —
They Confess their Guilt and are Shot — A Cannon Borrowed by the Cali-
fornians for Defense — Another Confession by a Spy, after Mutilation — His
Subsequent Fate — The Indians are Surprised — A Battle in which they are
Defeated — An Indian Night Attack upon the Residence of Don Santiaguito
Arguello— It is Unsuccessful — Indian Depredations — ^James Berry gets a
Land Grant, and Stocks it — A Bay and Shore Celebration of the P'ourth of
July.
The third night the Indians intended to fall upon
the Rancho Jesus Maria, occupied by Don Jose Lopez
with his wife and two daughters. News of the Indian
outbreak reaching San Diego, it was resolved to send
out a force for his protection and to rescue, it possible,
the two girls captured at San Ysidro.
Don Jose Lopez had a large vineyard and manu-
factured wine, of which he occasionally imbibed more
than was consistent with a well-regulated head. On
the evening when the Indians were to attack him
he was filled with wine, which led him to some ex-
traordinary demonstrations. He went out and built
a number of largfe bonfires in the vicinitv of his
house, and then commenced shouting vociferously, mak-
LOPEZ UNCONSCIOUS STRATF.GY. 239
ing a great noise for his own entertainment onl\ . As
the' Indians approached the place they sent out a spy
in adv.ince to reconnoitre and ascertain it everything
was fa\"orable for attack. The spy seeing the fires
i)Lirnino-, and hearing; this loud and continued shouting,
concluded that the Californians were there in force, and
so reported to the main body of Indians, who deemed
it prudent to retire.
This is the only instance I remember where anv
p.u'ticular benefit resulted from the freaks of an into.xi-
cated man, who probably could not have done anything
better to drive away the Indians had he been aware o(
their presence and designs.
The ne.xt day the force arrived, and Lojiez and
family were escorted to San Diego, the main body of
the troops going in pursuit of the Indians.
Ybarra, at the time he was murdered, had in San
Diego two sons, who joined the company in pursuit, as
they were anxious to learn everything possible regard-
ing the fate of their sisters. They were soon in-
formed by a captured spy that two of the chiefs had
made them their wives. The company followed into
the mountains, until they reached a rugged and broken
country wholly inaccessible to horses, and were obliged
to stop, the narrow defiles affording innumerable hid-
ing places for Indians and giving them an advantage
over the approaching enemy. Had the Californians
attempted to advance on foot they would have met with
certain death, for the Indians swarmed in force, knew
2-40 VBARRA GIRLS NEVER HEARD FROM.
the region intimately, and would hav^e picked the troops
off one bv one. The two brothers Ybarra, however,
urged on by the desire to rescue their sisters, advanced
further into the mountains than the rest of the com-
pany, actually saw the girls in the midst of the savages,
and got within a short distance of them, but were so
badly wounded by the arrows showered upon them that
they were compelled to return. After that, up to the
time Miss Estudillo left San Diego, in 1842, nothing
further was heard of the two girls.
Opposite the house where she was living with her
aunt was the residence of Ybarra's two sons and their
families. Dona J nana, the mother, lived with them in
San Diego up to the time of her death, which occurred
about a year after her husband was murdered ; this ter-
rible occurrence and the loss of her daughters also,
proving too great a blow for her. During this time she
never ceased to lament their sad fate. It was heart-
rending to listen to her expressions of grief, weeping
and wailing for the loss of her husband and children, like
Rachel refusing to be comforted. Her distress often
made the people weep who heard her lamentations.
Prior to the incidents above related, the same tribe
of Indians had made several attacks upon the Presidio
of San Diego for purpose of plunder, and the capture
of women, but were frustrated; and also pursued and
severely chastised. The savages in that part of the
country had the reputation of being braver and better
fighters than those in the north. The San Diego In-
dians ate the meat of horses as well as of cattle.
COUNCIL OF THE COOKS. 24I
In 1838 there were living at the Presidio of San
Diego the following families : The Estudillos, the Ar-
guellos, the Bandinis, the Alvarados, Governor Pico's
family, the Marons, the Machados, the Ybarras, the
Serranos, the Carillos, the Lopez family, the h'itch fam-
ily and a number of others.
One of the daughters of the Alvarado family mar-
ried Captain Snook. After her marriage two of her
younger sisters resided with her a portion of the time.
One of them had acquired considerable knowledge of
Indian language. Several of these families had Indian
men for cooks. One evening after supper, the vou ng
lady just mentioned. Dona Guadalupe Alvarado, over-
heard the cooks in earnest conversation in the Indian
language. As soon as the words were caught by her
ear she was startled and surprised, and drawing nearer
heard all that was said. She discovered that the In-
dian cooks from the different families had gathered in
the kitchen of the house and were discussing a plan of
attack upon the town by members of their tribe. It
appeared that arrangements had been completed for the
capture of the town the following night, and that the
cooks in the several families were to lend their aid.
In the council of the cooks, it came out that each
on the following night was to communicate with a
spy from the main body of Indians, and take stations
for this purpose on top of the hill overlooking the town,
where the old Presidio and first garrison quarters of the
Spaniards in California formerly stood. They were to
16
242 EXECUTION OF CONSPIRATORS.
inform the spies of the condition of each family, whether
or not it was sufficiently off guard at the time to warrant
an attack. There happened to be present in the house
Don Pio Pico and Don Andreas Pico, who were mak-
ing a friendly call on the family. They were a good
deal startled at the statement made by the young lady,
and represented that they would give the conspiracy
immediate attention. The people of San Diego at that
period had their houses well supplied with arms and were
always on the watch for Indian movements. Accord-
ingly, during the night they organized a company of cit-
izens and arranged that at daylight each house should
be visited, and the cook secured. This was success-
fully accomplished. As each of the conspirators came
out of the house in the early morning he was lassoed,
and all were taken a little distance from town, where
it was proposed to shoot them. They expressed a
desire to be allowed to die as Christians, to confess
to the priest and to receive the sacrament. This re-
quest was granted ; the priest heard the confession of
each and administered the rite,s of the church. A trench
of suitable depth was then dug, and the Indians made
to kneel close beside it. Then on being shot, each fell
into the ditch, where he was buried. Eight or ten In-,
dians were executed at this time.
While these proceedings were taking place a mes-
senger was sent to one of the Boston hide-ships lying
in the port requesting that a cannon might be loaned to
the town, to assist in its defense. The cannon was
UNCONVF.RTED INDIANS. 243
sent over, with ;i suitable supply of ammunition. At
night a party of citizens visited the spot where the In-
dian spy was to appear, and succeeded in capturing
him. He steadily refused to confess, though assured
that he would soon die, as his friends had done before
him. One of his ears was cut off, and he was given
to understand that the other one would follow, and
that he would be mutilated little by little until he made
the statement required of him ; whereupon, his reso-
lution orave wav, and he made a confession indicating
where the Indians were encamped, and telling all that
he knew.
This mode of extorting a confession, although re-
pulsive to those who participated in it, was the only way
of securing the desired information. After the spy had
divulged all he knew, he was shot without further cere-
mony, he being an unconverted Indian and not desir-
ing the services of the priest.
The next day the citizens went out in force, found
and surprised the Indians and engaged them in
battle ; numbers of them were killed, but none of the
Californians.
The last time Miss Estudillo saw any of these
.savages was in 1840 while visiting at the house of Don
Juan Bandini, who owned and occupied the Rancho
Jurupa, in what is now Los Angeles county. Her aunt.
Doiia Dolores Estudillo, was Bandini's first wife, and
at her death, left several children. He afterward mar-
ried a daughter of the Prefect, Don Santiago Arguello,
244 PUNTA REYES GRANT.
who, at the time now mentioned, was mistress of the
household. The house was situated at an elevation,
and the view from it commanded a wide range of coun-
try. One day they all noticed from the house a body
of Indians in the distance, who were collecting horses
they had stolen from the Mission San Gabriel and the
Rancho Santa Ana in that neighborhood. As Bandini
had but few men with him at the time, and the Indians
were in large numbers, he did not deem it prudent to at-
tack, and attempt the rescue of the animals. He there-
fore permitted them to move off to their retreats with-
out any pursuit.
In 1838, at Yerba Buena, I made the acquaintance
of James Berry, an Irishman of intelligence and edu-
cation, who had come here from Mexico or South
America. He had traveled all over the world. Spear
was attracted to him, and Berry stayed at his house
while in Yerba Buena. He spent a good deal of his
time at the Mission of San Rafael with Timothy Mur-
phy, one of his countrymen, and Father Ouijas. He
was a Spanish scholar and spoke Spanish perfectly. In
1839 Governor Alvarado gave him a grant of eleven
leagues of land at Punta Reyes, and he stocked the
rancho with horses and cattle.
The ship " Alciope " of Boston, Captain Clapp,
arrived at Yerba Buena in the summer of 1840 with
an assorted cargo, from Honolulu. She had been char-
tered by A. B. Thompson, who disposed of her goods
here, and then loaded her with hides and tallow. She
FOURTH OF JULY, 184O. 245
went down the coast exchanging the tallow for hides,
with the tallow vessels bound for Callao, and proceeded
to the Islands; from there to Boston.
At the Fourth of July celebration while at Yerba
Buena on this trip, being the only vessel in the bay at
the time, she was handsomely decorated with flags of dif-
ferent nations. Salutes were fired by the vessel at sunrise,
noon and sunset. A grand picnic was held at the Rincon,
which was attended by all Americans and other foreign-
ers of the town, by the elite of the Californians from
town and country, and by the officers of the vessel. The
foreigners, English, Irish, Germans and French, joined
in the festivities with all the enthusiasm of the Ameri-
cans, and the Calitornians likewise, prominent among
whom was Don Francisco Guerrero, who did all in his
power to make the occasion enjoyable to those partici-
pating. In the evening there was a ball at Captain
Richardson's house on the hill, near Clay and Dupont
streets, which was attended by those who had joined in
the picnic. Late in the evening a splendid dinner was
served, and dancing continued till daylight. The whole
celebration passed off in the pleasantest manner and
was greatly enjoyed by all. To enable the prominent
families around the bay to attend, boats and schooners
were sent to different points a day or two previous to
the Fourth to bring them in, and they were returned in
the same wav after the event.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
A Cargo of Panocha brought by Captain Dare in the Ship " Dreadnaught '' — John
Perry tells Interesting Stories of Central America — Precautions against
Smuggling— Spear Influences Perry for a Motive — Privileges Granted to Mer-
chants by Governor Alvarado — Perry Dies at Realejo — Pisco and other
Goods Arrive from Peru — Hinckley Talks too Much and is Arrested — Nothing
is Proved against Him, and He is Discharged — The First Grist Mill at Verba
Buena — The Manner of Operating it — The Second Mill at San Jose —
Native Mode of Grinding Flour — Something about the Verba Buena Miller- —
Captain Miguelon — His Characteristics and Cargo — An Offer Declined —
Dangerous Passage of a Swollen Stream — A Thrilling Incident of the Crossing
— Stetson in Peril — He has b Narrow Escape — More High Water — Detention
of a Bridal Party in Consequence — The First Steamer on the Bay — Something
about "Jim Crow Smith," an Eccentric Character — His Dexterity as a Pistol
Shot — He makes a Savage Misuse of the Weapon — Dies by Suicide.
About September, 1838, there arrived at Yerba
Buena the hermaphrodite brig " Fearnaught," Captain
Robert H. Dare, from Realejo, Central America, with
a cargo mostly of panocha (hard sugar) put up in boxes
in solid form, each box containing a cake of about three
arrobas in weight, and resembling packages of maple
sugar. The vessel also brought a little coffee. She
remained in the harbor a long t|me. The panocha
sold readily to the California people, who had a liking
for sweet things, and were very fond of it, the children
eating it in lumps like candy, the grown people doing
the same. Captain Dare was an Englishman, a regular
John Bull, a very good sort of man, punctual and cor-
rect in all his business engagements. There also came
VISITING CALIFORNIA FOR HEALTH, IN I 838. 247
in the vessel an American by the name of John Perry,
who had Hved at Realejo for many years as a merchant.
He visited Cahfornia on this trip for his health. He
was a peculiar man, although very intelligent, pos_
sessed of wide information, and a Spanish scholar,
speaking and writing the language fluently. He re-
tained the friendship and confidence of his business
associates to the time of his death. After the ves-
sel had disposed of her goods she returned to Realejo.
Perry remained here for about a year and a half, stop-
ping with Spear, and assisting in the business, taking
charge of the store while I was cruising about the bay.
Spear, of course, had a general oversight of affairs, but
did not confine himself closely to the store at Verba
Buena, as he had a store at Monterey also, to which
place he went frequently. He also made little trips into
the country round about on matters of business. Be-
sides this, having a smattering of medical knowledge,
and a good supply of medicines, he was called upon
to attend the sick in various directions, which he did
willingly, making no charge for his services.
Perry was married to one of the ladies of Realejo,
and appeared to be very devoted to his wife and children.
Having an intimate knowledge of the character, habits
and manners of the people of Central America, he en-
tertained us with descriptions of the country, its inhab-
itants and their history.
In 1838, and prior to that time, the Mexican law
applicable to the department of California forbade any-
248 THE 200 VARA LIMIT.
body in any seaport building nearer the water than 200
varas, so that facilities for smugghng might not exist,
as if the houses were close toshore. Under this aofree-
ment Jacob P. Leese and Captain Wm. A. Richardson
were living on what is now Dupont street, and conduct-
ing business there. This was considerably beyond the
200 vara limit, and as they could not be down near the
water, which they would have preferred for their busi-
ness, they went higher up than was necessary under the
law, this elevation giving them, however, a good view
ot the surrounding country and bay.
About the beginning of 183S, the Boston bark,
" Kent," Captain Steele, was lying in the bay of San
P'rancisco, and Spear bought of him a good-sized ship's
house, and placed it near the beach, at what is now the
northwest corner of Clay and Montgomery streets. As
a special friend, Alvarado, the governor, gave him per-
mission to occupy it there, he then being the only per-
son who was permitted to be near the margin of Loma
Alta cove. Very soon afterward he built a store ad-
joining '' Kent Hall," by which name the ship's house
was known, though only 12x18 feet in dimensions.
About that time Spear and Leese dissolved their part-
nership, and the business on the hill was discontinued,
Leese still having his residence there. Spear opened
business at the new place near the water. He had no
title to the lot, simply a permission from the gover-
nor to occupy it. Perry, finding that the climate of
California agreed with him and that his health had
THE GOVERNOR CiRANTS A 50-VARA LOT. 249
improved, determined to make Verba Buena his home
in the future. He was incHned to become a Mexican
citizen.
Spear encouraj^ed him in this incHnation, as being
of great advantage, for thereby he might, under the
hiw, become a o-rantee of such lands as the irovernor
should be disposed to bestow upon him. He also
thought Perry might assist him in acquiring a title to
the lot occupied by his store. Perry went by land to
Monterey, with strong letters of introduction from Spear
to Alvarado, in the spring of '39. The governor made
him a citizen of Mexico, and granted to him, in his
own name, the fifty vara lot occupied by Spear. Upon
his return, Perry deeded the property to him, although
under the law, strictly applied, Spear could not hold the
land under such transfer. In a short time Leese ob-
tained a similar permit from the governor to build near
the water, and did so. After that. Yioget and John
P'uller did the same. They were followed by others as
the town increased and foreigners came in. Spear con-
tinued to occupy the place until the change of govern-
ment in 1846. Perry returned to Realejo in the spring
of 1840, his health not firmly established, and died there
within a year.
In 1839, early in the year, the brig " Daniel O'Con-
nell," an English vessel, arrived at Verba Buena from
Payta, Peru, with a cargo of Peruvian and other foreign
goods, having on board a considerable quantity oi pisco
or Italia, a fine delicate liquor manufactured at a place
250 HINCKLEY IN TROUBLE.
called Pisco. He had also a considerable lot of becufia
hats, and a good many p07ic/ios, slmWar to those brought
from Mexico. Spear assisted the captain and super-
cargo in disposing of the goods. She left here for
Peru in the Spring of 1840 with a cargo of tallow.
In 1839 the brig " Corsair," Captain William S.
Hinckley, arrived from Monterey. Hinckley was after-
ward alcalde. While at Monterey he said something
about evading the custom house laws, and was heard to
talk imprudently in Spear's store. I cautioned him in
a friendly way. A few days after, Don Pablo de la
Guerra, a custom house officer, and other officials, ar-
rived from Monterey ; Hinckley was arrested, and
kept under arrest for about a week at Spear's store
while an examination was made by the officers. An
inspection was made of the vessel, the sailing master
and other officers were cross-questioned ; but nothing
could be proved against him, and he was discharged.
Hinckley being a man with good powers of speech
and persuasion, brought these personal forces to bear
in his defense against the charge of smuggling. Be-
sides this, he showed the officials all the attentions pos-
sible during the examination. This is the only in-
stance, with the exception of A. B. Thompson, super-
cargo of the " Loriot," that I remember, of an arrest
in those days on a charge of evading the revenue laws.
On this trip the " Corsair" landed at Verba Buena,
consigned to Spear & Hinckley, the machinery for a
grist mill, from Callao, manufactured at l^altimore.
THE FIRST FLOUR MILL. 25 1
Shortly after, the machinery was put up in a heavy-frame
wooden building, two stories high, on the north side of
Clay street, in the middle of a fifty vara lot between
Kearny and Montgomery streets. This was the first
grist mill in California. It was operated by six mules,
Spear having some eighteen or twenty for this work.
A man by the name of Daniel Sill was the miller. The
mill made a considerable quantity of fine flour, from
wheat raised by the rancheros round the bay, each of
them having a patch, and some of them fields of good
size.
The mill probably turned out twenty to twenty-five
barrels of flour a day, which was put up in fifty and one-
hundred-pound sacks and sold to farmers and to the
vessels. A flour mill run by water was established about
the same time at San Jose by William Gulnack, an
American, who married a Lower California lady. He
first emigrated to Honolulu, with his family, and from
there came to Monterey in the bark " Volunteer," in
1833. He went thence to San Jose. Those two were
the only flouring mills in the department for a long
while. Prior to their establishment the ranchero made
his flour by crushing the wheat by means of an ap-
paratus composed of two circular stones, a yard in diam-
eter, set up out of doors near the kitchen of his house,
a shaft being aflixed to the upper stone and turned by
mule power. The grain thus ground fell upon a plat-
form about eight or ten feet in diameter, under the lower
stone ; a hopper was affixed to the upper stone, into
252 SILL, THE MILLER.
which the wheat was poured. After a quantity had
gone through this process it was ground over again
two or three times in the same manner ; the flour was
then sifted out in hand sieves, and was ready for use.
The poorer people who did not have a mill of this
kind were provided with a inetate, a flat stone, about
12x18 inches, with a little rim on the two lonor sides, and
supported on three legs five or six inches high of un-
equal length, the flat surface inclining at an angle of
about thirty-five degrees. The operator, resting on his
knees, crushed and abraded the grain by moving a hand-
stone forcibly downwards over the flat surface until the
grain was well cracked. At the foot of the incline it
fell into a dish placed beneath. The process was re-
peated several times and until the grain was suffici-
ently pulverized for use. If corn was crushed iox tor-
tillas, or tamales, the whole of the grain was made
use of. The vietatc was also used for grinding chili
pepper, when dry —for seasoning ; also for meat, instead
of chopping.
Sill, the miller, was an old mountaineer who had
come across the plains in 183 i or '32, and lived about
the bay of San Francisco, either at a Mission or with a
ranchero. He was industrious and useful, possessed ot
a deal of common sense, but of no education ; quiet and
well behaved ; a splendid hunter and marksman, hav-
ing brought from his eastern home his old rifle, of a
very primitive pattern, but unerring in execution in his
hands. If he ever drew it upon a coon, a bear or a
DEER AT RINCON. 253
lark, the result was that the game had to come down.
While employed as miller he was fond of going out
Sunday mornings for a little hunt. I was often invited
to accomj)any him. We would start about nine o'clock
and go over to a place called Rincon, a flat between
Rincon Hill and Mission Bay, and a resort for deer, the
place being covered with a thick growth of scrub oak
and willows, which afforded them good shelter. Pres-
ently, perhaps four or five deer would appear in sight,
and Sill, drawing his old rifle to his shoulder, always
got one. " Now, William," he would say, "go for the
yellow horse." This was one of Spear's animals, and
was known as the deer horse. I would cjo and saddle
him, and ride over to the hunting ground. By that
time, Sill usually had another deer. Slinging the two
carcasses across the animal, we would return in triumph
to town.
The native Californians were not fond of hunting,
and so the deer were little disturbed, save by the few
hunters who came into the country from other parts.
Sill spent a portion of his time in the Sacramento
valley, trapping beaver and land-otter, for their skins,
which were very valuable. He also killed elk, for their
hides and tallow. There was a blacksmith's shop con-
nected with the mill, and Sill, who had a natural apti-
tude for all trades, was the blacksmith as well as the
miller, the first one in San Francisco. Afterward, old
Frank Westgate was employed as blacksmith. He
understood that work ; but was a hard drinker. Sill
2 54 CHOICE COCOA.
remained as miller for Spear until about 1842 or '43.
when his disposition to rove, impelled him to take his
departure. He went to the upper Sacramento valley,
and lived a while with Peter Lassen, a Dutchman, who
had settled there under a grant. At times he stopped
with some of the other settlers ; with Sutter for a while
at New Helvetia. As he always made himself useful,
he was welcomed wherever he went.
About March, 1841. the Ecuadorian brig " Joven
Carolina," from Guayaquil, arrived, commanded by an
Ecuadorian who was always known as Captain Migue-
lon, (which signifies large Michael.) The captain was
of a broad and liberal nature, kind and humane in his
treatment of the men on board his vessel ; the friend of
everybody; overflowing with good humor, though at the
same time an excellent business man. Being one ot
the joliiest and best natured of gentlemen, he took
great delight in the society of ladies. They often
visited him on board the brig. The vessel brought a
cargo mostly of cocoa, with a quantity of coffee, from
Central America, and some Peruvian commodities. She
remained at Yerba Buena until November, disposing of
the goods, all of them being sold in the bay, a portion
to vessels trading on the coast. The Californians were
fond of cocoa and chocolate ; the manufacture of the
latter from the cocoa was done by the women, who pre-
pared a choice article with the hand-mill or metate.
The vessel went back to Guayaquil, and thence
to Peru, with tallow. Shortly before she sailed. Cap-
I
A YOUNG MAN FROM CHARLESTOWN.
'D^
tiiin Miguelon, who owned the vessel, uri^ccl me to go
to Guayaquil with him, saying^ that on arrival there, I
should be supercargo; we would then return to Cali-
fornia and dispose of the goods. The offer was an ex-
cellent one. but I declined it. thinking I could do better
bv remaining where I was.
One day in January, 1842, after I hi n>c «.";\vniv;\l Season — The
Amusement v>f Urvakinji l\jJ3j-sheUs o\xm- the Ikwvl — K4Hertau\n»ents of the
(.'arnivixl St^xsiMX- A>hservrtnix> of the IK>ly l>a\-s--An Kwninj; on Ikuxnl tlK"
" Alert," with lixptain \Vn\. H, l*helj>s The l^xtler s<^"**' «" Aivount of his
Jownu^y U> Jerus;\lem Mis Hijjh Appixvirttion of the Visit- Captrtin I'helps
as a llvtnter- He »>(\en Writes Kast in Pnxise v^f California— He also iKVomes
a Favv>rite with CotunuxU^re Wilkes -lUvston the First to Ixarn of the
t.'o«ntrY"s \ast Res»M\>ws,
Mrs. InMUuni .irri\i\l in \ (mI\i Inion.i, troin Mis-
souri. .iKnil 1S4.;. with hor husband and a lars^o lamily o\
children. I nuMition her tusi. .is slio w.is unmistakably
the luMvl ol the taniilv. a lar^^o. powerful wvMuan. un-
cultivated, but well-nie.uung aiul very industrious. Her
word was law. and her huslxmd stood in becomii\j^ awe
of her. Their ohildnMi wcmc respeciablv brought up.
iho family beinj; supportcvl bv sewini:. washing-. in>n-
injv ; raising chickens, turkeys and ducks. ! trusted
her for jLioods frtH|uemly. not knowing, or caring much,
whether ihe\ were ever p.iivl for : but thev .dways
were. She w.is .u\ honest, i^ood \voni.u\. .md while not
reguriltHl as .in i qu.d bv the bettor cultivated and n\ore
arist«.xTatic ladies, she w.is .ilw.iys pleasantly received
in their houses ; as foreign Kidies weiv scarce and class
distinctions not rigidly observed.
The carnival festival which is celebrvittn.! with merri-
ment and revelry in Catholic countries during the week
pirocvling Lent, w.is observed by the Californians.
IIAKMI.I'.SS AMI'SIMI'N rs. 2Sj
rii(\ li.id various little (•mcri.iiinucnis ; .hmoiil; ilifui.
<"
iii!:^ one ol the aL;ri'('al>l<' leatiiics i)| these j^atheiines.
Ihe ( '.ilitornians niaile the most ol all their lestivals,
,Mui. .iceoitliuL; to their usual hahils. oi)si'r\ eil this one
luIK . L^iv in_e theniseKcs up to anuisenient duiine its
eont iniiance.
( )ne ol the anuisenients the (, '.ililoiiuans hrouglu
with iheni Ironi Spain ami Mexieo, was the laistoni
ilurinL; the iarni\al season eaeh year, ol hreakini; upon
the heails ol the opposit*' sex, ejL^'i; shells lilled with hue
scraps ol prett\ loloretl siKcror l^oM paper, or with
cologne water, or some h.u'ui less and .i^reeal tie substance.
1 1 was in the n.ilure of .i L;ame oi' t riek pl.i\cil upon one
another, the idt'. I Ixmiil; to eateh the xictim un.iwares,
and ;^eml\ sm.ish the (\l;_l; •\\^<'\ disti'ihute its eonteiits
over the he.ul. A L^^'iulem.ui. lor instanee, would lall
upon .1 l.uK , .uul he pleas.uuK i
Arthur, used influence In getting Howard into this
position. The young man had become docile by
his sea experience ; and applied himself diligently to
his new labors, having a bright and active mind, and
showing indications that he would make a successful
merchant. In 1840, he went home, z-/^ Mexico, to see
his relatives, and returned here in 1842 with Captain
Arthur, of the vessel he first came in. The ship
touched at Honolulu on her way to California. Aboard,
as a passenger, was a young lady, Miss Mary Warren,
the daughter of Major William Warren, of Boston.
During the voyage, young Howard became enamored
of the young lady, who was pretty and fascinating.
They were married at the house of Captain Grimes,
while the vessel remained at Honolulu, and the bride
and groom came to Monterey in the ship, after a stay
of a few weeks at the Islands.
Reaching Monterey about this time in the " Don
Quixote," I met my friend Howard and was introduced
to his wife. During the visit, Howard surprised me by
announcing a discovery he had made that we were
second cousins ; that his mother was a niece of my
father ; and that the name of my family was his second
given name. He made me a present of a work called
" Day and Night," in two volumes. The "California"
proceeded down the coast, trading, and the " Don
Quixote" came to Yerba Buena.
Before this second trip of the " California," she had
been sold by Bryant & Sturgis to William G. Read, a
3l6 WILLIAM D. M. HOWARD.
capitalist of Boston, by whom she was loaded, and sent
out, with three supercargoes : Captain Arthur, Captain
Clapp, who commanded the " Alciope" when she was
here m 1840, and WilHam D. M. Howard. They did
not get along very harmoniously. Captain Arthur,
though an excellent navigator and ship master, was not
much of a business man, neither was Captain Clapp ; but
Howard, with a natural aptitude for business, had profited
by his experience with Stearns in 1839 ^"d '40, in de-
veloping business capacity, and was the chief super-
cargo. The others were jealous of his superior ability.
The cargo having been disposed of, the vessel returned
to Boston with hides, but Howard and his wife remained
at Los Angeles. Read had written to Howard mean-
time that he would dispatch to him the " Vandalia," of
four or five hundred tons. The ship arrived here in the
latter part of 1843. Howard, being sole supercargo,
traded up and down the coast (sometimes taking his
wife with him), and sold the cargo at a good profit
for the owners. In 1846 he sent the vessel back to
Boston with hides, otter and beaver skins, and other
furs.
The vessel while in the harbor of San Francisco,
entertained many of the ladies at impromptu receptions.
Howard often joined them in Philopena — sharing
with them double almonds, the one calling out Philo-
pena first, on their next meeting, being entitled to a
present. It cost him a good many pairs of gloves, and
other articles, to discharge these obligations.
WILLIAM D. M. HOWARD. 317
In I845 he formed a copartnership, under the style
of Melius & Howard, with Henry Melius, who for
several years had been employed by Boston merchants
as agent and supercargo. The business of the Hudson's
Bay Company in Yerba Buena having been terminated
by the death of Rae, the premises occupied by that
company were purchased by the new firm. Late in
1848 they built a new store on the southwest corner of
Clay and Montgomery streets; abandoned the Hud-
son's Bay building and took Talbot A. Green, a new
partner into the business. Then the style of the firm
was chano-ed to Melius, Howard & Co.
Howard was a bold operater, liking to do things on
a grand scale — sometimes rather reckless in his pur-
chases, but generally successful. Henry Melius was the
best merchant in town, he having been thoroughly edu-
cated in business. My store in 1846 and 1847 was on
the northwest corner o( Clay and Montgomery streets.
Howard was accustomed to late suppers, and often
after I had retired for the night at Kent Hall he would
rap at my door and call out that I must come over and
have supper with him, persisting until I complied.
Going across to the store, we feasted on turkey,
chicken and champagne, or whatever his larder af-
forded ; talking, laughing and enjoying ourselves for
two or three hours, sometimes with other company.
The /\merican flag was hoisted in 1846, and the
town was placed under martial law. Watson, captain ot
the marines of the American man-of-war " Portsmouth"
3l8 WILLIAM D. M. HOWARD.
(Commander Montgomery), was in charge, with a corps
from the vessel. The flag was raised on what is now
Portsmouth Square. A guard was stationed at the
Mexican custom house, an adobe building on the square.
The Californians made no resistance to the raising of
the flag at various points in the department ; but some
weeks afterward they decided to oppose the complete
surrender of the country. At Los Angeles, Santa Bar-
bara and San Jose, attacks were made upon the little
guards of soldiers there stationed, and they were driven
away. News reaching Yerba Buena, the remainder of
the marine corps on board the " Portsmouth" was sent
on shore, making a force of twenty-five. The opposi-
tion of the Californians led to the preparations by Com-
modore Stockton and the battle of San Gabriel, which
will be spoken of hereafter.
Howard, myself and a few other merchants were
furnished by Watson with the countersign, which was
changed every night. We were out on a visit one
evening, and were crossing Portsmouth Square, on the
way home, about eleven o'clock, when we were hailed
by the guard on duty: "Halt! who goes there.'*"
" Friends ;" we answered. "Advance and give the coun-
tersign ! " commanded the sentry. We advanced, but
both Howard and myself had forgotten it. We ex-
plained our position. The guard said he was obliged
to take us to the guard-house, which he accordingly
did, armed with his musket, one of us on each side of him.
Fortunately, Captain Watson was still up, and, on see-
THE LEIDESDORKF ESTATP:. 319
in^^ US approach under arrest, burst out laughing. He
dismissed the guard, and entertained us very hospitably
lor two or three hours. Howard was a capital mimic.
He often personated the peculiarities of others in a
good-natured way; was a fine actor, and very success-
ful in playing practical jokes on his friends. If Grimes
flew into a rage over the practice of some of these arti-
fices, the former used his mirth and persuasive abilities
with success, in calming down the old captain.
Robert Ridley, in 1845, built a one-story cottage,
with a piazza round it, on the southwest corner of Cal-
ifornia and Montgomery streets, back about twenty varas
(fifty-five feet) from each of the streets. He sold this
place to William A. Leidesdorff, who lived there from
1846 to the time of his death in May, '48. In the sum-
mer of 1847 Commodore Biddle arrived from China in
the line-of-battle ship " Columbus," and was the guest
of Leidesdorff. While he was there, Don Jose Joaquin
Estudillo with his wife and two daughters, and myself
called to pay our respects. As we approached the
house from the Montgomery street side and passed the
pretty flower garden which Leidesdorff had at the time,
we were met by him and the commodore. The lat-
ter seeming to be in a playful mood, presented each of
the Jadies with a miniature bouquet of two or three
flowers plucked from the garden. Tome he presented
a single dry straw picked from the ground.
Upon the death of Leidesdorff, Howard was ap-
pointed administrator of the estate, with two bonds
320 SAM. BRANNAN.
men, each in $50,000, of whom I was one. Howard
then took possession of the cottage as a residence, and
occupied it up to the beginning of '49. While there,
he received a good deal of company, — merchants, cap-
tains, supercargoes, army and navy officers and other
strangers. Mrs. Howard came up from Los Angeles,
where she had been spending considerable time, a
daughter being born to her there, and joined her hus-
band at the Leidesdorff cottage in 1848. She left San
Francisco in January, 1850, by the American ship
" Rhone" for Honolulu, hoping to secure in the Islands
the restoration of her failing health, but she died in
three or four months after her arrival, while staying
with the faniily of William Hooper, the United Staces
consul.
In the autumn of 1850 Howard was married again,
the bride being Miss Poett, daughter of Dr. Poett, who,
with his wife, had resided many years in Santiago,
Chili, where the young lady was born. They came to
California in '49. Before the marriage he had purchased
a house and lot on the northeast corner of Stockton and
Washington streets. It was there he was married and
afterward lived, until 1S51, when he moved to Mission
street, between Third and Fourth, and built one of four
cottages — of similar ciesign and appearance, the others
having been constructed, one by George Melius, one by
Talbot H. Green and one by Sam. Brannan. Howard
had by his second wife one child, who is still living.
His first child died at Los Angeles.
SAM. BRANNAN. 32 I
Melius, Howard &; Co., in 1848 and '49, after the
discovery of gold, did an extensive and profitable busi-
ness. They had a branch store at Sutter's Fort, with
Sam. Brannan as partner and manager (he having no
interest in the San Francisco house), and sold goods
and supplies of all kinds to the miners. The business
at Brannan's branch store required continuous supplies
from the San Francisco house, and he would sometimes
come to the city and nearly empty my store and the
stores of others, buying everything we had.
21
CHAPTER XL.
Foresight of Quartermaster Folsom — He Slips Off to the West India Islands and
Purchases from the Heirs the Entire Leidesdorff Estate in California — The
Author Becomes a Local Officer of San Francisco — Howard Forms a Military
Company — -An Incident] of Recognition — Disputing a Man's Identity — How-
ard Crippled Financially by the Great Fire of 1851 — The Increase in Real
Estate Values Restores Him to Wealth — A Spiteful Lawsuit Instituted by
Melius Against Howard — It is Soon Abandoned for Good Cause— Howard a
Generous Contributor to Charity — He and Melius Present the City a Fire
Engine — A Fire Company Organized with Howard as Foreman — Howard
Dies in 1855 — Tokens of Respect to Plis Memory.
The Leidesdorff estate, when Howard took charge
of it, was in debt about $60,000. In its management
and settlement he showed his business abiHty. It em-
braced a great deal of property. Everything was ar-
ranged by Howard in the most satisfactory manner. C.
V. Gillespie was his managing assistant in this business.
J. L. Folsom, quartermaster, United States army, in
San Francisco, noticing the rapid rise in real estate,
consequent upon the discovery of gold and the rush
of people to California, and knowing that the Leides-
dorff property would rapidly become valuable, slipped
away from the city and proceeded to the island of St.
Croix, one of the West Indies, where Leidesdorff was
born, and where his mother Ann Maria Sparks, and
her family, were living. His father was a Dane, who
had emigrated to St. Croix.
Folsom bought of the heirs the entire estate in
California, paying therefor the sum of $75,000 cash,
THE FIRST MILITARY COMPANY. 323
and afterwards $15,000 or $20,000 more. Oii return-
ing, after having secured the deed, the property was
turned over to him, it being then worth several hundred
thousand dollars.
I was elected to the ayuntamiento of San Fran-
cisco in 1848 and also in 1849. My friend Howard
having conceived the idea that I would like to be a
member, insisted upon my taking the nomination, which
I accordingly did. While a member of the council, I
had the honor of suggesting the name of a street in
San Francisco after its first citizen, William D. M.
Howard ; which suggestion was adopted.
He organized, in the year 1849, the first military
company in San Francisco, under the name of Califor-
nia Guard, composed of one hundred members, of whom
I was one. He made a good commanding officer, and
drilled the company efficiently ; taking much pleasure
and pride in this work, having acquired in the East in
his younger days considerable military skill. Without
ambition for political office or civil position of any kind —
although, with his talents and popularity, he might easily
have attained any position in the department — his aspira-
ations were of a military charactfr, and his tastes were
in that direction. At the same time he was a persist-
ent and honest worker for his friends. If he thought
that a certain man should fill a certain position in civil
affairs, he would set the forces in motion to that end ;
electioneer for him, and by his efforts carry him through
successfully.
324 A SERENADE.
Having a fine ear for music, and great appreciation
of it, Howard had also a taste for theatricals, and was a
good amateur actor. He happened to be at Santa Bar-
bara with the " Vandalia " in 1845, while the ship "Ad-
mittance " was there. John C. Jones was going as
passenger to Boston, and had secured a cabin for his
accommodation. Jones was considered a good actor of
Shakespearean characters, and while the vessels were
at Santa Barbara he and Howard got up a performance
(in which both personated characters) for a large com-
pany assembled. It was very seccessful, affording a
good deal of entertainment to themselves and the audi-
ence ; being the first introduction of Shakespeare to this
wild country.
Just after my marriage, in November, 1847, How-
ard serenaded us on two occasions with a band of music,
at our house in Yerba Buena. When the band had
played a number of airs on the piazza, we got up and
dressed, opened the doors, and invited Howard and the
musicians in. Mr. and Mrs. Estudillo being also
with us, we had quite a party. Champagne was freely
opened, and a few pleasant hours were enjoyed.
Melius having had an attack of apoplexy in 1850,
which impaired his health, soon after sold out his share
in the business to Howard and Green, receiving there-
for $150,000 here, and also one-half of $40,000 which
he and Howard had on deposit in Boston. After his
withdrawal he retired to private life in that city. His
brother Frank afterward went into the concern, but
shortly withdrew.
GEDDES, ALIAS GREEN. S^5
Sometime in 1850 Talbot H. Green was recog-
nized by H. P. Hepburn, a lawyer from Philadelphia,
who had known him at the East, as Paul Geddes.
Hepburn was walking in Montgomery street with a
number of gentlemen, among them Ferdinand Vas-
sault, and looking across the street, exclaimed, " Why,
there's Paul Geddes!" "That's Talbot H. Green,"
said one. " No," responded Hepburn ; " it is Paul
Geddes ; I know him as well as I do myself" The
circumstances under which he had suddenly left the
East soon became known throughout the city, and the
discovery created quite a sensation, as Green at the
time was a candidate for the office of Mayor of San
Francisco. Howard had put him forward for that po-
sition.
Green stoutly denied that he was Paul Geddes and
contradicted all the accusations, affirming that he was
Talbot H. Green, and always had been. To prove the
truth of his statement, he offered to go East and ob-
tain evidence to satisfy anybody interested of that fact.
Vassault was called on by Howard and asked if it was
correct, as reported, that Hepburn had made the dis-
closure about Green, in Vassault's presence. The latter
confirmed the report, and the former appeared much
surprised and excited.
Green soon left for the East and did not return
for a number of years. Howard continued the business
by himself.
The great fire of 185 1, which destroyed the busi-
ness portion of San Francisco, and, in fact, almost the
326 THE GREAT FIRE OF 1 85 1.
whole city, leaving a little rim on the outside like the
tire of a wheel — the wheel itself beinof orone — burned
out Howard, who at the time had a large stock of goods,
and also his buildings in different parts of the town. He
became Iso crippled in consequence that he was on the
verge of bankruptcy.
The town was rebuilt, however, and in 1853 real
estate had increased so much in value that he had not
only recovered his losses by the fire, but had become a
rich man. He visited Boston in that year. The fact of
the resuscitation of San Francisco and the great increase
in the value of property there were of course well known
at the East. When Howard reached Boston he was
looked upon as a millionaire. This excited the jealousy
of Melius, who, although wealthy himself, was not sat-
isfied ; and he instituted a suit against Howard, employ-
ing the famous Rufus Choate as his counsel ; his com-
plaint being that he was not in his right mind at the
time of his settlement with Howard in 1850, and that
he had not received the full value of his share of the
partnership property at that time. The suit was, how-
ever, abandoned, as Howard could prove unquestionably
that Melius was sufficiently sane to know what he was
about, and had sold his interest with full knowledge of
its value. Besides, at the time of settlement, the friends
of Melius, his brothers and others, were consulted ;
they were aware that in the transaction there was no
deception on the part of the purchaser.
After his return from Boston, in 1854, he was so
enraged at Melius' unfriendly action in commencing
ORGANIZATION OF THE PIONEER SOCIETY. 327
suit, that he caused the name of the street which had
been called after him to be changed to " Natoma," which
name it still bears.
Howard was the leader and one of the most ac-
tive organizers in the establishment of the California
Pioneer Society in 1850, and due credit should be given
him for these efforts. He was the first president of the
society, and remained as such till 1853. At the Pioneer
Hall is a portrait of him, but I regret it is not a very
correct likeness; a better one is owned by Don Alfredo
Robinson.
I never knew Howard to decline granting a favor
or refuse to contribute to a charitable enterprise. In
any scheme of the kind he was always one of the first
to act, not from ostentation or a desire for display, but
from real philanthropy and generosity. Among other
things, I remember his subscribing $300 to build the
first Catholic church on Vallejo street in the fall of
1848, for which I made some collections at the request
of Judge (afterward Governor) Burnett, and I was
treasurer of the fund.
In 1850 or 1 85 1 Melius & Howard purchased, in
Boston, a first-class fire engine, one of such machines
as were in use in those days, worked by hand, selected
by Melius while he was East on a visit, the firm paying
for it, and the freight also, from their private funds.
On its arrival in 1851 they presented it to the city of
San Francisco, this being among the first, if not the"
very first, of the engines which the city possessed. It
was named the " Howard."
328 THE FIRST FIRE COMPANY.
A fire company was organized, of which Howard
was made foreman. Charles R. Bond was secretary,
Ferdinand Vassault, WilHam Burling, A. S. Dungan,
G. B. Post, R. S. Watson, Charles Warner. R. L. Og-
den, Thomas J. Haynes and other well-known gentle-
men — all merchants, the first citizens of San Francisco
— were original members ; also Beverly C. Sanders,
banker, and collector of the port ; Sam. Brannan and
George H. Howard, capitalists. In fact all the mem-
bers of this company were men of wealth and high
standing, none others being admitted. At the organ-
ization of the company and the election of officers there
was a jolly time. One of the participants recently re-
marked to me that the champagne was unlimited. There
were about forty members, and they had their head-
quarters in an iron building, imported from England,
situated on the west side of Montgomery street, a little
south of California, where the engine was kept. On
occasions of fires, Howard, as foreman, and the other
members of the company, appeared in their firemen's
caps and uniforms, and worked the engine— aided by
volunteers from the outside, when necessary.
The subject of this sketch may be regarded as one
of the founders of San Francisco. His enterprise, en-
ergy and wealth helped build it up and stimulated its
prosperity. He had its interests always at heart ; and
where he could be of service in anything tending to its
growth and advancement, he was foremost.
In personal appearance, he can be described as an
ideal nobleman, six feet in height, erect, of command-
HOWARDS DEATH. 329
ing figure, with sandy beard (generally clean shaven)'
full, ruddy cheeks, laughing eyes, and soft and musical
voice.
During his visit to Boston in 1853, Howard con-
tracted a severe cold which settled on his lungs. After
his return here in 1854, he commenced to pine away.
He gradually grew worse, until he became hardly more
than a skeleton of his former self, having lost perhaps
half his weight. He was then living at the Oriental
Hotel, Bush and Battery streets, with his family.
Larkin went up to the hotel one day to see him.
He looked about the parlor, passing a man sitting
there and was continuing his search, when the man
in the chair called out, " For God's sake, Larkin,
why don't you speak to me?" — and, to his astonish-
ment, he perceived that it was Howard, so changed that
he hardly knew him. His death was much lamented,
laudatory obituary notices appearing in the Alia and
Herald. The columns of the latter were dressed in
mourning, as a token of respect.
Howard left a fine estate, which was divided be-
tween his widow and son. His widow afterward mar-
ried his brother George ; and after the latter's death,
she married her present husband, Mr. Bowie.
CHAPTER XLI.
Some Political History — The First Wharf — Privileges Granted to it — A vast Fleet
of Trading Vessels in the Bay — A Splendid Spectacle — The Business Bustle
on Shore — The Scene as a Panorama — A Patriarchal mode of Governing the
Mission Indians — Their Cleanliness under Discipline — Yoscolo, an Educated
Indian, proves Treacherous — Outljreak of the Savages — Yoscolo their Leader
— They Break into the Mission Convent, and carry off" 200 Indian Cjirls —
Yoscolo joins Stanislaus, another Educated Chief, in the Mariposa Mountains
— Their United Forces Formidable — The Indians break into, and Plunder the
Mission of Santa Clara — The Savages retire to the Santa Cruz Mountains —
Prado Mesa musters a Hundred Men to March against Them — A Battle
Ensues — Mesa gains a Victory — Yoscolo is Taken and Beheaded on the Spo
— The Killed and Wounded — Yoscolo's Plead displayed as a Trophy.
After the change of flag, the laws of Mexico (civil
and criminal) were continued as the predominating laws
of the department, but the U. S. military commander
of the territory was at the head. If a doubt arose con-
cerning any alleged illegal exercise of authority by an
alcalde (who was an elective officer) or by prefects (who
were appointed by the governor), the dispute could be re-
ferred to the military governor, and his decision thereon
might be final ; he had power, for cause, to remove the
alcalde from office ; but I know of no instance of the
arbitrary exercise of this power.
Pio Pico was the last of the governors under the
Mexican regime, holding from January, 1845, ^^ ^^^
time of hoisting the American flag at Monterey in
July, 1846.
Commodore J. D. Sloat, of the U. S. navy, was
the first military commander under our flag. He was
THE CENTRAL WHARF. 33 1
succeeded by Commodore R. F. Stockton in August,
1846. Colonel Fremont was the military governor
during a part of 1847. The latter was succeeded by
General Kearney, and he, by Colonel Mason. The
last of the military governors was General Riley, dur-
ing whose administration the first constitution of the
state was formed at Monterey in 1849. It was ratified
at the general election November 13, 1849 ; the popu-
lation at that time being about 120,000, of whom 80,-
000 (estimated) were American, 20,000 foreigners, and
20,000 native Californians.
Peter H. Burnett was elected governor at that
election, under the constitution. On the 20th of De-
cember, 1849 (before the admission of the state into the
Union, September, 1850), he entered upon the discharge
of his duties at the capital, the pueblo of San Jose. Be-
fore the expiration of his term of office he resigned the
governorship, and John McDougal, the lieutenant-gov-
ernor, served out the remainder of the term, a little less
than a year.
Governor McDougal was jolly and open-hearted,
but his habits were against him, and occasionally he
would imbibe too much.
The next election took place in the fall of 1851,
John Bigler being elected governor of the state for the
term of two years from January i, 1852. His majority
was 441 votes over P. B. Reading, the Whig candidate ;
the whole vote being about 50,000.
In 1849 the first wharf was built in San Francisco,
known as Central wharf, so named from Central wharf
33^ THE CENTRAL WHARF.
of Boston. It was located where Commercial street is
now, commencing- a little to the west of Sansome street,
and running 400 feet into the bay. Howard was one
of the most active movers in this enterprise, and owned
a large amount of the stock. The wharf proved to be
useful, and was a valuable piece of property, bringing in
a large income. At the public sale of tide lands by Al-
calde Hyde, in October, 1847, Melius and Howard
bought the block bounded by Clay, Sacramento, San-
some and Battery streets, and they gave the company
a slip of land about thirty-five feet wide for the build-
ing of the wharf. Its construction and use enhanced
the value of the remainder of the block, and increased
the wealth of the firm.
Afterward, in 1849, the alcalde, with the approval
of the ayuntamiento, granted to the Central Wharf
Company a block of tide land east of this block, and
the wharf was extended to Front street the same width
as the portion before built. In 1850 Colonel J. D.
Stevenson and Dr. W. C. Parker secured the title to
the block in front of that just mentioned, bounded by
Front, Clay, Davis and Sacramento streets, and they
granted to the Central Wharf Company, for a consider-
ation, a strip the width of the wharf for a further ex-
tension, which was made as far as where Davis street
now is. After that the city gave the company the right
of way as far as Drumm street, and the wharf was built
to that point.
The first section of wharf extending to Battery
street, cost $110,000, and from Battery to Drumm
1
THE CENTRAL WHARF. ;^T,;^
$200,000. On the organization of the wharf company,
C. V. Gillespie was elected president, and I was chosen
treasurer. At the first meeting after the organization
I reported having collected $23,000 from the stock-
holders. The stock was paid for as soon as subscribed.
At the second meeting I reported that the subscrip-
tions had all been paid in, amounting to $200,000.
1 then relinguished my position as treasurer, having more
business on hand of my own than I could find time to
attend to. I had accepted the position at first solely
to oblige Howard.
From the time of the building of the first portion,
the wharf became an important feature of the city ;
and in the winter of 1849-50 it presented a scene of
bustle and activity, day after day, such as, I presume,
hardly has been equalled elsewhere in the world at any
time.
An immense fleet of vessels from all parts of the
globe, numbering eight to nine hundred, were anchored
in the bay, east of the city, between Clarke's Point
(now about Broadway street) and the Rincon (now
about Harrison street), presenting a very striking pic-
ture — like an immense forest stripped of its foliage.
The Central Wharf being the only one in the
city, was the thoroughfare for communication with the
vessels, and was crowded from morning till night with
drays and wagons coming and going. Sailors, miners,
and others of all nationalities, speaking a great variety
of tongues, moved busily about ; steamers were arriving
334 A GRAND SPECTACLE.
and departing, schooners were taking in merchandise
for the mines, boats were crowding in here and there —
the whole resembHng a great beehive, where at first
glance everything appeared to be noise, confusion and
disorder.
The city of San Francisco to-day, with its exten-
sive commerce and four hundred thousand people,
presents no such grand spectacle of enterprise and
activity as was centered at that pic;r, in its infancy.
The wharf at that time was a prominent feature
of the view from the hill residences west. On leaving
my home at Stockton and Jackson streets for the
store on a fine morning, looking down, the sight was
panoramic in the extreme — the living mass of human
beings moving to and fro seeming in the distance not
unlike an army in battle on the edge of a forest, re-
presented by the wilderness of masts of vessels ma-
jestically riding at their moorings, gathered from all
parts of the known world. The scene was one of the
most memorable within my recollection.
• Visiting the Missions of Carmel, Santa Barbara
and San Diego in 1831, I was impressed with the neat-
ness and order about them, and the respectable appear-
ance of the Indians. The men dressed in white shirts
and blue drill or cotton pants ; many of them with shoes,
which were manufactured at the Missions, from bullock
hides, deer and elk skins, dressed and tanned there. The
government of the Indians was systematic and well de-
signed. A few of the Indians, in whom the Padres had
CAPTAIN SHAW. ^T,^
confidence, were selected to act as alcades or capiianes,
each over a certain number, for whose good conduct he
was held in some degree responsible. If any offense
ao-aint the resfulations of the Mission was committed,
the case was reported to the Padre, who determined
what punishment should be inflicted on the the culprit.
The good iinpression was confirmed by a visit to the
Mission Dolores in 1833, where were gathered ftom
2000 to 2500 Indians. The order and discipline among
them being so apparent and perfect as to excite the
admiration of the beholder It seemed like a military
camp.
Captain Shaw, of the " Volunteer," was a severe
disciplinarian, and his vessel was as neat in every
respect as a man-of-war ; he also remarked upon the neat-
ness and good order of the people, and everything con-
nected with the Mission, saying the system could not
be surpassed on a war vessel. There were no ragged
children or vulgar-looking women. In visiting other
Missions during that year, I noticed a similar condi-
tion ; good order and cleanliness prevailed. I made the
same observations at the Mission of San Jose in 1838,
where two or three thousand Indians were collected —
all having an appearance of neatness, and all being un-
der good discipline. At that time the Mission of Santa
Clara was falling into decay, owing to the loss of
some of its lands, and it was made a centre for military
operations.
At the Mission of San Jose in 1839, I saw an In-
dian whipped on the bare back, for some offense he had
^^6 CHIEF YOSCOLO.
committed, this being one of their punishments. The
Mission was not then under the charge of Father Gon-
zales, but of Don Jose Jesus Vallejo. In a year or two
the control was again given to the Padre, and Don Jose
withdrew. This was the richest Mission in the Depart-
ment at that time.
Among the Indians who were educated at the Mis-
sions, two became prominent— Stanislaus at the Mis-
sion of San Jose, after whom Stanislaus River and
County were named; and Yoscolo, at the Mission of
Santa Clara. They were educated by the Fathers.
Both showed ability and promise in their youth.
Yoscolo when twenty-one years of age, was made the
chief of the whole body of Indians at the Mission,
responsible of course to the Padres for the manage-
ment of them. In this position he displayed tact in the
control of the Indians.
At one time some of them committed tresspasses
which displeased the Padres and they proposed pun-
ishing Yoscolo, who refused to submit to it. At this
stage he was joined by 500 of the Indians over whom
he had command, and they all assumed a hostile
attitude.
The Indians were armed with bows and arrows,
having been allowed to retain these weapons, as it was
considered there was no danger in their doing so, and
they were needed in killing game.
The outbreak occurred in the night. The five
hundred, led by Yoscolo, broke open the Mission stores
A MISSION ATTACKED. 337
and helped themselves to blankets and whatever articles
they could easily carry away.
A small guard was usually placed at each Mission
by the governor, consisting of ten or fifteen soldiers,
from the troops of the nearest Presidio, under the
charge of a corporal or sergeant. At the Mission of
Santa Clara there was a guard of this kind, under the
command of Juan Prado Mesa. But against so large
a force it would have been powerless.
After breaking into the stores and helping them-
selves, they entered the convent attached to the Mis-
sion, and seized about two hundred young Indian girls,
whom they took away with them.
It is probable that the sole object of the emeute
was to secure possession of the girls, and that Yoscolo
had planned for some time to effect this purpose ; that
the offense for w^hich he had incurred the displeasure of
the Fathers and rendered himself amenable to punish-
ment was committed as a pretext for the outbreak ;
that his five hundred followers had all been fully in-
structed beforehand as to the performance ; and that
the weapons had also been secured, and everything pre-
arranged. Yoscolo was a young man of talent and
bravery, as afterward was shown, and capable of con-
ducting an intrigue of this kind. Besides the plunder
from the stores, and ihe two hundred girls, about two
thousand head of horses belonging to the Mission of
Santa Clara and also some owned by the citizens of the
pueblo of San Jose, were taken by the Indians. As
22
338 MEN OF STRAW.
they went on south they gathered in the stock of others.
They made good their retreat, and reached the Mariposa
mountains without opposition.
An instance is not known of Indians doing harm
to any of the Padres, so great was the respect in which
the Fathers were held.
Stanislaus had sometime previous left the Mis-
sion of San Jose and taken command of numerous
tribes at Mariposa, numbering about 40,000 He, also,
was well educated, brave and talented, but preferred
the freedom of wild life and the exercise of authority
over the tribes, to the tame civilization of the Missions.
Yoscolo sought Stanislaus, cultivated his friend-
ship, and the two joined forces, the former becoming the
leader. These events occured in May, 1831.
The government took steps immediately to pursue
and chastise the offenders. General Vallejo collected a
force from the different presidios, and called also for
volunteers. In two or three weeks he had organized a
body of 200 men, armed and equipped, for the pursuit.
The Indians were encamped on the Stanislaus
river to the number of several thousand, — men, women
and children, for fishing and general enjoyment.
The Californians reached the camp and prepared
to attack it. As soon as the presence of the troops
was known, the enemy formed an ingenious plan to
evade them. A large number of bundles of grass were
set afloat down the stream, and as the current took
them past General Vallejo's camp, in the indistinct light
NEW OUTRAGES. 339
of the moon the soldiers mistook them for Indians, and
supposed that their wily foes were getting- away in a
body ; whereupon, the entire force set c-ut in pursuit of
the supposed aborigines, who, after being followed some
distance down the stream, were discovered actually to
be men of straw. Meanwhile, the real Indians had
taken up their march to the interior and where they
were safe from all pursuit, as no white man would fol-
low them into those well-nigh inaccessible retreats.
Some time after, Voscolo, with about 200 picked
men, made an attack in the night upon the Mission of
Santa Clara, for the purpose of plunder. Breaking into
the stores, they helped themselves to whatever they
chose to carry off, making good their escape. They
took up their position at a pass in the Santa Cruz
mountains, known as " La Cuesta de los Gatos," which
name was given from the circumstance that wild cats in
great numbers were about there in former times. Here
Yoscolo relied upon his ability to hold out against any
attack of the Californians.
This new outrage on the part of these Indians
aroused the military spirit of the Californians anew.
Juan Prado Mesa gathered one hundred men in a few
days, with whom he marched against the enemy, taking
with him also a piece of artillery.
Mesa was a great Indian fighter. He knew his
enemies, and did not underestimate their cunning
and ability ; yet, at the same time, he had no fear of
them. Yoscolo, seeing him approach, came out from
340 YOSCOLO BEHEADED.
his retreat, and with his force went part way down the
mountain to meet him. A desperate encounter ensued,
in which both sides showed great intrepidity. The
Indian leader marshaled his forces in the form of a
square, in true military style, and ordered his men to
lie down and discharge the arrows from a recumbent
position, in which there would be less risk of being hit
by the bullets of their opponents, who were armed with
old-fashioned muskets, carbines and flint-lock pistols.
The battle raged all day, the savages showing great
stubborness in continuing it. Only when their arrows
had all been discharged did they finally yield to the
Californians. Their leader, when taken, was found to
be wounded. He and the more prominent of the band
under him were immediately beheaded. The remainder
were turned over to the Mission of Santa Clara to be
civilized and Christianized anew. About one hundred
Indians were killed and wounded in this battle. Of the
Californians only eight or ten were killed, but a large
number were wounded. Among the killed were two
brothers Cibrian, of a well-known family of the pueblo
of San Jose.
Yoscolo's head was affixed by the hair to the top
of a pole planted in front of the church at Santa Clara,
and remained there for several days as a warning to
other Indians.
CHAPTER XLII.
Chief Stanislaus is Pursued and Overtaken by Castro — An Outbreak of the
Indians at Clear Lake — They are Slaughtered without Mercy — Arrow Poison-
ing — The Methods of Counteracting its Effect — The Trouble of Land Squat-
ters — A Timely and Skillful use of the Reata, and a Fortunate Rescue —
Dangers and Benefits of the Reata — Two Illustrative Incidents — A Wealthy
Land, Horse and Cattle Owner — Members of his Family Designated — A Close
Dealer — Pompous on First Acquaintance, but Easily Softened — Exhibits his
Moneyed Treasures to the Author — The Owner tells how he Acquired Them
— Does a Bartering Business on his own Account — The Wealthy Man makes
Further Purchases from the Author — Robbed by his Sons — His Character as
a Money Broker — The sort of Security he Required on Loans— Time and
Manner of Herding and Transferring Cattle.
Stanislaus, with a force of about eighty Indians,
came down from the mountains in May, 1840, to the
ranchoof Guillermo Castro, at San Lorenzo, and to the
rancho of the Peraltas, at San iVntonio (East Oakland),
and captured several hundred head of horses. A day
or two after. Castro, with seventeen men, went in pur-
suit. A fight took place on the banks of the San Joa-
quin river. Stanislaus formed his men in military
order ; and directed them to lie down, and not to dis-
charge the arrows at random, but to make sure of a
white man each time. The battle lasted about three
hours, during which two of the bravest of the fighters,
the Romero brothers, were wounded. One of them
could not help expressing admiration for the bravery of
Stanislaus, as he noticed his conduct during the fight,
and he informed Castro, who was in command, that it
342 A MASSACRE OF WOMEN AND CHILDREN.
would be impossible to win, as the Indians were in supe-
rior force and were well supplied with arrows. The
Californians then withdrew, with their recovered horses.
The loss of the enemy could not be definitely ascer-
tained, but it was considerable in killed and wounded.
In the summer of 1841 the Indians of the Clear
Lake region committed some depredations, and troops,
to the number of fifty or sixty, were sent out under
command of Captain Salvador Vallejo to vanquish them.
Reaching the Indians, he found them in their temes-
cales, and as they emerged from the steaming huts, one or
two at a time, they were barbarously shot or cut down,
until about 150 men, women and children had been
slaughtered. When the news of the massacre reached
Yerba Buena, the people were horrified. I remember
that Spear spoke of it as nothing but butchery, for
which there was no justification ; and the officers of
Wilkes' expedition regarded it in the same light.
No doubt the Indians deserved some chastisement
for the offenses, or at least their leaders did, but no
such punishment as was inflicted.
Solano, after whom Solano county was called, was
a noted chief. He exercised great influence over the
tribes, and had the confidence and respect of General
Vallejo, who conferred with him, and communicated to
him his wishes and views. He assisted the general in
keeping the Indians in subjection.
In 1843, sixty or seventy Indians, commanded by
the brother of Yoscolo, came to the rancho San Pablo,
stole several hundred horses and then retreated. One
of the owners of the rancho, with his brother and four
other CaHfornians, and two domesticated Indians, went
in pursuit. The thieves were found in the neighbor-
hood of Mount Diablo. The little party approached,
and succeeded in capturing two of the Indians, whom
they put to instant death.
The main body of the Indians coming up, a fight
took place, lasting two or three hours, during which
the horse of the leader of the party was killed under
him. He made a barricade of the body of the animal
and fought behind it, and in the fight he shot the
leader of the savages dead with his pistol, — the same
chief who had killed Briones in 1839. After the fall
of their leader the others became dismayed, and re-
treated, leaving three or four dead upon the field and
abandoning the stolen horses.
The Indians sometimes fought with poisoned ar-
rows. In fighting expeditions the CaHfornians were
usually accompanied by an Indian doctor, who was pro-
vided with an herb which he used as an antidote to the
poison. Indians, themselves, also made use of it.
When a man was wounded by an arrow the Indian doc-
tor applied his mouth to the wound and sucked out the
blood and the poison with it. He then chewed some
of the herb and injected it into the wound.
Some time prior to i860 a man named O'Connor
obtained possession of a portion of the Rancho San
Pablo by purchase, transfer or otherwise. The ranchero
344 ^ COOL PERFORMANCE.
permitted him to remain, respecting his claim, and
did not distrust him so long as he remained upon his
own premises, but would not allow the slightest encroach-
ment upon land the owner occupied as a homestead.
Squatters would take possession of lands belong-
ing to the Californians. A certain ranchero, by his
coolness and bravery, succeeded in driving them from
his premises and in keeping them off, sometimes facing
guns and pistols. He never had to fire upon a man,
though fully armed on these occasions and on the alert
to use his weapons, if necessary. The owner of the
rancho, one day in i860, riding over his land, mounted
on a fine horse, with a reata on his saddle, noticed that
some laborers employed by O'Connor had come over
the border and were at work upon his land. He per-
emptorily ordered them off, and threatened to thrash
them with the reata if they did not instantly obey.
O'Connor coming up to interfere, commenced an angry
dispute, drew a pistol, and was in the act of firing at
the ranchero when the latter quickly flung out the lasso
and caught O'Connor round the neck. The rider put-
ting spurs to his horse, the unfortunate man was
dragged along at a furious rate. Luckily, the ran-
chero's son happened to be near at hand, also mounted
on a swift steed, ' He rushed forward in pursuit, and
dexterously cut the reata between horse and victim,
thus saving the latter's life. A witness, giving an ac-
count of the occurrence, said, he never saw anything
more admirable than the whole performance, in cool-
ness, quickness and courage.
DANGEROUS USE OF THE REATA 345
The rcata was a slender woven cord about eighty
feet in length, and made of very strong leather or strips
of hide untanned. In the hands of a Californian it was
not only a very useful implement, as well as means
of amusement at times, but was also a powerful weapon,
as has been shown by the instance just mentioned. It
was carefully handled, as much so as a firearm, acci-
dents sometimes happening from its use.
A ranchero of my acquaintance was once in the
act of securing the reata to the pommel of the saddle,
just after a steer had been lassoed, when his hand got
under the lasso, between it and the saddle, and the
strain which came at that instant almost severed the
fingers of his hand from the remainder. In two or
three weeks thereafter lock-jaw set in, from which he
died. There are numbers of instances where a Cali-
fornian has lost a thumb or forefinger of the right hand
by having it caught and cut off in the same manner by
the reata, while in the act of securing it to the saddle.
To the Californian the lasso was an indispensable
part of his equipment on all occasions when he started
away from home. In expeditions against the Indians
and in military campaigns, every man took his reata
along with him, not only for use for ordinary purposes,
but as a weapon of offense and defense in cases of ne-
cessity. If, on starting out, he had been compelled to
choose between pistol and reata which to take with him,
he would have chosen the latter as being the more use-
ful of the two.
34^ A RESCUE FROM THE SURF.
I remember where the use ofthereata in an extra-
ordinary way saved a man's life. Between San Luis
Obispo and Guadalupe, the regular road in some parts
was quite sandy. Traveling over it was heavy work.
Another and at times better road ran nearer the ocean,
part of the way along the beach when the tide served.
Don Luis Estudillo happened to be going from Guad-
alupe to San Luis Obispo one day in the spring of
1875, and reached the Arroyo Grande at the moment a
wagon and four horses, driven by a young man, were
struggling in the water, after an attempt to ford, when
the tide was high, at the point where the beach road
crossed that estuary. Seeing the stranger in this
plight, being borne out by the current into the ocean,
and hearing his cries for help, Don Luis prepared
to assist in a rescue. He knew it would not be prudent
to plunge his horse into the swift tide, so he rode in
only a short distance, and casting the reata the full
length, with all his force, it just reached far enough.
The loop passed over the young man's head and went
round his neck. Calling loudly to him to catch hold
with his hands, so that he would not be strangled, Don
Luis then gently drew him ashore, and saved his life.
The horses and wagon were carried out to sea and lost.
About the year 1801 Jose de la Guerra y Noriega,
a captain in the Spanish army, came from Mexico and
located at Santa Barbara, as comandante of that pre-
sidio. He was born about 1775, at Novales Santander,
in Spain. When Mexico severed allegiance to Spain
LAS POSAS, SIMI AND OTHER RANCHOS. 347
he resigned his commission in the army and was elected
as depidado to represent the department at the caj)ital
city. During^ his residence in CaHfornia he acquired
immense wealth in lands, cattle, horses, sheep and
money. He owned the Las Posas rancho, of twelve
leagues, and the Simi rancho, of fourteen leagues, about
half way between Santa Barbara and Los Angeles, the
two ranchos being nearly adjoining. Each rancho had
from 5000 to 6000 head of cattle and about 2000 horses.
He also owned the Callegua rancho, of five leagues, with
2000 head of cattle and a large number of horses ; also
El Conejo rancho, of three leagues, with 1000 head of
cattle and many horses, and the San Julian rancho, of
eleven leagues, with 10,000 head of cattle and a large
number of horses. His possessions covered a vast
area, and were equal to a small kingdom. In all these
ranchos the horses aggregated 5000 to 8000. His sons
were Jose Antonio, Francisco, Pablo, Joaquin Miguel,
and Antonio Maria. His daughters were Teresa, wife
of Hartnell ; Augusta, wife of Jimeno; Anita, wife of
Don Alfredo Robinson, and Maria Antonia, wife of Lat-
aillade, and after his death, of Caspar.
I became well acquainted with the old gentleman
in 1842. He still retained his title of captain, by which
he was always called. I sold him large quantities ot
goods at different times. He was a close buyer, gen-
erally paying cash (Mexican and Spanish doubloons).
What money the vessels collected was used for the pur-
chase of hides. Being introduced by Henry Melius to
34^ TREASURE BASKETS.
the captain in 1842, he received me with a good deal of
dignity and coolness, and rather pompously ; but on
learning that I was the son of Don Guillermo Davis,
who had visited the coast many years before, he wel-
comed me cordially ; paying my father many compli-
ments ; saying that he knew him well, and had bought
from him largely. I was afterward quite a favorite of
his, and came to know him well. While supercargo of
the " Don Quixote" in 1842 and '43 I made four or five
sales to him, ranging from $2000 to $4000 each.
On these occasions Noriega took me to the attic
of his house, where he kept his treasure, the room being
used exclusively for that purpose. There was no stair-
way, the attic being reached by a ladder, which was re-
moved when not in use. In this room were two old-
fashioned Spanish chairs, and ranged round about were
twelve or fifteen coras — strong, compactly-woven bask-
ets, of different sizes, made by Indians, the largest hold-
ing, perhaps, half a bushel — all of which contained gold,
some nearly full. The money amounted to a consider-
able sum in the aggregate. I was astonished to see
so much coin in the possession of one person in a coun-
try where the wealth consisted mainly of horses and
cattle. The old gentleman said that the attic was the
safest place in which to keep it. I asked him how he
managed to collect so much gold, and he replied that it
was the accumulations of all the years he had been on
the coast. The Spanish soldiers, when they were paid
off, spent their money freely, and he had supplied them
SALES MADE BY THE AUTHOR. 349
with what they wanted, having carried on a store of his
own.
Many articles were required to supply also his
ranchos, and he paid his vaqueros in goods, as they
had not much use for money ; and on these he made
more or less profit. He also sold his hides and tallow,
besides otter and other fur skins, for cash ; and had
thus collected his great treasure. He had no occasion
to spend money except for purchases from the vessels.
Being a good merchant and shrewd manager, he knew
how to take care of money. Noriega had also at Santa
Barbara a vineyard, from which he made wine and
aguardiente.
In 1846 I owned one-third of the brig "Euphemia,"
the other two-thirds being owned by Captain Grimes
and his nephew Hiram Grimes. I was supercargo,
and being at Santa Barbara with the vessel. Captain
Noriega asked to see the invoice of my goods, and
seemed very anxious to purchase. That day and the
next, I sold him about ten thousand dollars' worth,
for which he paid coin. After visiting San Diego on
this trip, and returning in January, 1847, I sold him
goods to the amount of three or four thousand dollars
more, which he paid for in cash and in hides.
Some of the old gentleman's boys were a little
wild. Knowing that their father had plenty of money
and the place where it was deposited, they devised a
plan to secure some of it for their own use. The lad-
der was kept in the old captain's bedroom, beyond their
350 CAPTAIN NORIEGA.
reach. So they dimbed to the roof from the outside,
and took off two or three of the tiles, beneath which
were standing these baskets of gold. Reaching down
into the baskets with an improvised pitchfork, they
drew out as many coins as they thought it advis?ble to
take. How often this operation was repeated and how
much of the old gentleman's treasure thus disappeared
is not known, but the trick was soon discovered and re-
ported, and this mode of abstraction was brought to an
end. As the captain did not know how much money
he had in the baskets, of course he could not tell how
much he had lost.
When I first knew him, he was nearly seventy,
and retained his fine personal appearance. He was the
sire of many handsome sons and daughters.
Being the wealthiest man in that part of Califor-
nia, and having so much money, he was applied to by
the rancheros for loans when they were in need of
funds. The loans were made on promises to repay in
beef cattle at the killing season, or in heifers, or in
hides and tallow after cattle had been killed ; the lender
taking the borrower's word as security, as was the
custom.
In the spring of the }ear, the number of heifers
agreed upon would be delivered to him to add to his
own stock, heifers being more easily domesticated in a
new place than older cattle ; or at the 7natan2a season
the beef cattle or the hides and tallow would be delivered,
and the debt thus cancelled.
CAPTAIN NORIEGA. 35 1
When cattle, old or young, were transferred from
one rancho to another, as was frequently the case in
the dealinc^s of the rancheros with each other, it
was generally done in the spring of the year, the
new feed being then plentiful, and they were easier
aquerenciado, or domesticated, in their new pasture
than at any other season, A band of cattle taken to
another rancho, would be placed under the charge of
vaqueros, and watched and herded at first very care-
fully. Becoming accustomed to the new place, and less
restless and uneasy, they were allowed more liberty of
range, and at night were coralled. After some weeks,
they were habituated to their new surroundings, and
turned in with the other cattle, becoming a part of the
general band belonging to the rancho.
CHAPTER XLIII.
Several Arrivals from Boston by Sea — A Party on Shipboard — Sad Fate of
Captain Vincent — Thomas B. Park comes out to San Francisco — Dies Soon
After — Active Competition in the Vessel Trade of the Port — First Arrival of
Melius — Robinson's Dislikes — Melius goes Fast and Returns — His Precision
and Caution as a Business Man — Melius gets Married- — Sells out his Business
^Goes' East again — Returns and Locates at Los Angeles — A Constructive
Insult Offered his Wife at a Dancing Party, by an Officer of the Army named
Bonnycastle — Melius Challenges Bonnycastle — A P'riend offers Himself as a
Substitute to Fight for Melius — The Duel Comes Off — Bonnycastle Shot in
the Hand — Melius Fails in Health — Changes in the Melius Business Firm.
The ship " Courier" arrived at Monterey, from
Boston, on the 3d of July, 1826, Captain Cunningham
master and supercargo, and traded on the coast, collect-
ing hides and tallow. Thomas Shaw, who came out
from Boston in the vessel as a carpenter, after her arri-
val was made clerk and assistant supercargo. He was
supercargo of the "Lagoda," when she was here in
1835, ^^^ ^^so of the " Monsoon" which arrived here
in 1839. George Vincent was second mate of the
"Courier," and commanded the "Monsoon" in 1839.
He also commanded the ship ''Sterling," which left
Boston, in October, 1843, ^^''^ arrived here early in
1844. She was consigned to Thomas B. Park. Henry
Richardson came out on this trip from Boston, as clerk
of the vessel, and died here of typhoid fever. He was
a young man of great promise, and his death was much
lamented by those who knew him. Captain Vincent
also commanded the brig " Sabine," which left Boston
I
A PIONEER SEA-CAPTAIN PERISHES IN A FIRE. 353
in the early part of 1848, arriving here in the midst
of the gold excitement. Holbrook was owner and
supercargo.
The ship "Monsoon" was lying in the harbor, in
1839, and Sutter left from along-side for the Sacramento
valley, with the schooners "Isabel" and " Nicolas"
and his own four-oared boats, as previously described.
Just prior to our leaving, the whole company was in-
vited on board the ship for a little farewell entertain-
ment. We were handsomely treated ; toasts were
given, and a pleasant time enjoyed. As the visitors left
the vessel to embark on their expedition, they were
followed by friendly expressions and best wishes of
Captain Vincent, his officers and crew. After 1848 the
captain continued to reside in San Francisco, and made
one or two trips to Mexico to purchase goods. In 1850
I had my office in the brick building at the northwest
corner of Sacramento and Montgomery streets, on the
second floor, where Captain Vincent also had an of-
fice and kept his valuables. The second story was
reached by a flight of stairs from an alley that con-
nected with Montgomery street. While the great fire
of May, 1 85 1, was raging, the captain rushed up to
the office to secure his property, and in returning was
caught by the fire at the foot of the stairs in the alley,
and there p. rished, his body being nearly consumed to
ashes.
In 1837 Thomas B. Park came out in the ship
" Alert " from Boston, in the capacity of assistant su-
23
354 SHARP COMPETITION IN SELLING FROM VESSELS.
percargo. On Robinson's return to Boston in the same
year, in the ship " Cah'fornia," Park took his place as
agent, and remained here ten or twelve years, and up to
his death. He was an educated merchant and gentle-
man. Though not liking the rough travel of a new
country, and the rambling kind of trade peculiar to
California, where a good deal of jjush and energy were
required, but preferring much to be in his own office at-
tending to his correspondence, with bookkeeper and
clerks at hand, whom he could direct in the business,
still he was willing to adapt himself to the circumstances,
and did travel about to secure his trade ; sought out
his customers and followed them up, sold his goods, and
filled his vessels with hides. But he consumed more
time than others, not moving actively, nor pushing the
business very vigorously.
There was a great deal of competition in the early
days in the selling of goods from vessels, particularly
at Yerba Buena, which was a distributing point.
Whenever there were two or more vessels here at a
time, the supercargoes were very active in getting
round in their boats, up the creeks, or with their horses
and vaqueros, to various points about the bay, in order
to be first at the different ranchos and Missions, to sell
Sfoods, and collect hides and tallow. The rancheros
preferred to buy from the vessel rather than from the
local stores, for the reason that they then got supplies
at first hand, and, as they thought, to better advantage.
BRIG ** PILGRIM;" ROBINSON, CONSIGNEE. 355
Henry Melius came to the coast in the brig " Pil-
grim," before the mast, in 1834, l^rank Thompson,
captain. The vessel was consigned to Alfred Robin-
son. When the brig arrived, the ship " Alert," Cap-
tain E. F. Falcon, was here, Alfred Robinson, agent
and supercargo. He transferred Melius from the ves-
sel, and employed him as clerk. Most of the Boston
ships in those days had on board three or four boys, of
good families, who were sent here to get a little experi-
ence, and learn something of nautical life. Melius was
one of them. The " Pilgrim," a smaller vessel than
the others belonging to the same owners, was sent
as a tender to assist them at rancho landings, such as
at the Refugio and other points distant from the regu-
lar ports, and to deliver goods and receive hides and
tallow.
Robinson was thorough and systematic in all mer-
cantile matters — a man of good commercial schooling.
He had a great dislike for the " Alert's" captain,
Falcon, and also for John H. Everett, the clerk of the
vessel, who certainly were very disagreeable.
In order to get them away from the coast as
quickly as possible, Robinson loaded the " Pilgrim "
rapidly, transferred Falcon and Everett, and dispatched
them, with the brig, home.
In 1837 Melius returned to Boston, with Robin-
son, in the ship " California," the agency being left in
charge of Park. Returning in 1839, as assistant su-
percargo of the " California," Melius for a time co-
operated with Park in the agency, and showed great
356 HENRY MELLUS MARRIES ANITA JOHNSON.
aptness for business, becoming a successful merchant
in San Francisco. He was not so demonstrative and
unreserved as Howard, but said very little, and that
little to the point. Though unostentatious, he was al-
ways pleasant and agreeable, and magnetic in manner.
An excellent manager, he planned everything carefully
beforehand, and all the details of his business were ex-
ecuted without jar or confusion. Everything moved
smoothly, just as designed, and came to a successful is-
sue. He kept his plans to himself When he sent off
his boats from the vessel's side, no one unconnected
with the vessel knew their destinations, and no advan-
tage could be taken by competitors. In 1846 he mar-
ried Anita Johnson, the daughter of an Englishman
who had married a Mexican lady from Sonora. Anita
was born in Los Angeles. She was pretty and attract-
ive. A number of children followed the marriage.
After relinquishing the agency for Bryant & Sturges in
1848, Melius went to Boston with his family on a visit.
He returned to this coast in the winter of 1849-50, at
which time he had an attack of apoplexy. He par-
tially recovered, but never was the Henry Melius of
former days. H. F". Teschemacher and he were close
friends, and he was also on the same friendly terms
with Alfred Robinson.
Melius' family lived at Los Angeles after his mar-
riage. On one occasion a grand party took place there,
at which were present Mr. and Mrs. Melius, Tesch-
emacher, and other company, among whom was a young
BONNYCASTLE CHALLENGED. 357
officer of the United States army named Bonnycastle.
During the dancing, Mrs. Melius and Bonnycastle hap-
pened to be in the same set, and at this time the army
officer was grossly guilty of the impropriety of press-
ing the lady's hand ardently. She immediately left the
room, feeling much aggrieved, and informed her hus-
band of what had occurred. The result was a challenge
from Melius to Bonnycastle, which was accepted. The
latter having the choice of weapons, selected rifles, at
forty paces.
On the morning appointed for the meeting Melius
was reclining on a lounge in his house, very uneasy, and
much excited at the prospect before him. Being of a
very sensitive nature, the contemplated duel was quite
contrary to his inclinations and tastes. He looked for-
ward to it with forebodings which he could not control.
A friend much attached to him came into the room, and
seeing his nervous condition, proposed a compromise*
urging that since he was a respectable man of family,
with a good many duties, whereas his adversary was a
sinele man, the risks would be much less with the lat-
ter. He proposed to take Melius' place as a principal
in the duel, and insisted upon it so strongly that Melius
finally yielded, and allowed him to do so.
The parties met, and fired, Bonnycastle being
wounded in the hand. A ring on one of his fingers
was hit by the bullet and carried away, and the finger
shattered. Thus the duel terminated.
35^ THE OLD FIRM OF MELLUS, HOWARD & CO.
Up to the time of the attack of apoplexy, Melius
was known as a man of remarkably strong mind, with
head always clear ; but afterward it was evident that
his intellect was somewhat impaired, although his con-
versation was rational and intelligent. I remember
meeting him at San Diego in 1850, whither he had
gone for his health. He frequently came to the house
where my wife and I were staying ; and he seemed
solicitous about his diet, saying that he dared not im-
bibe wines of any kind, having to be very careful of
himself.
The action on the part of Melius, in relation to
Howard, created a feeling against him in San Francisco
and on the coast among those who had known them
here in the former days, and he became quite unpopu-
lar ; but I did not join in the outcry against him. My
regard for him remained undiminished.
After he had retired from Melius, Howard & Co.,
his brother P>ank went into the concern as partner,
and the style of the firm became Howard, Melius
& Co. Frank shortly after withdrew ; the firm name
was changed to Howard & Green, and so continued to
the time the partnership was dissolved by the exposure
of Green and his departure from the city.
CHAPTER XLIV.
Sharp Practice in Trade — The Rancheros' Favoritism between Bidders — Drying
Hides Kxtempore — Expedients adopted by a Ranchero to Fill an Order —
Business Rivalry no Cause for I]I-feeling--Frank and George Melius come to
California — The Former Marries Here — A Lady's Sarcastic Response — List
of \'essels sent out to Melius —Don Jose Antonio Aguirre as a Trader on the
Coast — Other Incidents in his History — He gets an Insight into the Animus
of Professional (Quarrels among American Lawyers, and other American
Customs — He Ojiposes the Annexation of Cuba in Vigorous Language.
Referring again to the competition among the early
merchants, I recollect some instances of pretty sharp
practice in the collection of hides and tallow. Mer-
chants trusted the rancheros largely for the goods they
sold them, and the indebtedness was paid after cattle
were killed. The ranchero being more or less in debt
at all times, would promise a merchant to supply him
with a certain quantity of hides and tallow at a stipulated
time ; but shortly before the specified date the ranchero
would be called upon by another merchant to whom he
was likewise indebted for goods, and who was also
anxious to secure hides and tallow, on account of what
was owing to him, and also to make up a cargo for ship-
ment. By persistent efforts and persuasion he would
so work upon the ranchero — who was good-natured
and obliging, and desirous of accommodating all his
friends, as far as he was able — as to secure for himself
a large part of the hides and tallow which had been
promised to the first one, and carry them ofi triumph-
360 DOUBLE PROMISES BY THE KANCHEROS.
antly, somewhat to the chagrin and discomfiture of
the merchant who had the first contract, who, coming
shortly afterward, would find that his competitor had
got ahead of him. The ranchero would then make the
best of it. explaining that he could not resist the impor-
tunities of the other, and had been obliged to let the
hides and tallow q-q to the first arrival. To make
good his original promise, he would let the second
comer have the hides and tallow remaining, and would
collect everything about the place that could be made
available, even frequently ordering more cattle to be
slaughtered, the hides taken off, and some tallow melted
out forthwith.
When this happened, hides were often taken in a
green state, and staked out and dried by the merchants
at Yerba Buena. I have frequently had them spread,
by stakes, at the vacant space by the water side, between
Washington and California streets, which was then a
meadow, covered with short green grass. I have also
seen them hung up thickly on ropes stretched over the
decks of vessels, the same way the clothes of the crew
of a man-of-war are hung in the rigging to dry. The
tallow in a very soft state was sometimes taken on
the vessel — before it had cooled and hardened, after
having been put into the bags.
It was impossible for the rancheros to pay all the
merchants at once, as it required time to kill a large
number of cattle and prepare the hides and tallow.
The merchant who reached the rancho first, gen-
MERCHANTS OP' VARIOUS V \TIONALITIES. ■;6l
O*
erally had the best bargain, though in the course of
time the others usually got their share.
In 1 84 1 a ranchero had promised to deliver to me
a quantity of hides and tallow on a certain day. I went
at the time specified, to the ranch landing with the
schooner " Isabel," expecting a full load, but I found
that Henry Melius had preceded me the day before, with
one of his schooners, and had secured nearly the entire
stock. Upon my appearing, the ranchero and his sons
expressed a good deal of concern and many regrets.
They went to work and collected all the dry hides they
could find on the place, had a lot of bulls slaughtered
immediately, and the hides taken off, and some of the
matanza tallow tried out, so that before I left I made
up nearly a schooner load. This cutting under and
getting the first grab, was common, and well understood
among the merchants, but it never caused any ill-feel-
ing, as it was considered perfectly fair. They joked
and laughed about it among themselves, and it was
not thought that any injury was done or unfair advant-
age taken. The quickest, most enterprising and in-
dustrious it was conceded should be the winners. The
last man might be the first on some other occasion.
There was never any disagreement or hard feeling, or
quarrel of any kind, or even a coolness where two mer-
chants would not speak to each other. At all times
they were on the most friendly footing ; entire good
feeling prevailed. Of various nationalities — American,
French, English, Scotch, German and Spanish, as a
class they were intelligent, high-minded and honorable.
362 A BASHFUL MELLUS.
Mr. Frank Melius, a younger brother of Henry,
came from Boston in 1840, in the " Alert," and was em-
ployed as clerk and educated by Henry in business.
On his arrival, he was green-looking and bashful, and
he always retained boyish appearance and bearing.
He failed to command that respect and deference which
was felt towards his brother. He was a good fellow
however, though impulsive and easily excited, and
proved to be quite smart and efficient. The Califor-
nians gave him the nickname of Fultninante (percus-
sion cap), by reason of his excitability. He married
Adelaide Johnson, a sister of Henry's wife, a very
handsome and vivacious young lady. George Melius
another brother came to the coast in 1849.
In 1850 a beautiful bark, of several hundred tons,
owned by Henry Melius, Don Alfredo Robinson and
others, arrived from Boston with a cargo designed es-
pecially for Los Angeles. She anchored at San Pedro
and discharged the goods. The vessel was named
after the Christian name of a California lady, then the
wife of a very wealthy gentleman living in one of the
southern counties. Several years since, this lady, while
at the Palace Hotel, was called upon by an acquaint-
ance of hers, a Spanish-American gentleman, who, in
the course of conversation, asked if she would sing ;
she replied, facetiously and with the utmost good
nature, '' No puedo cantar, pero puedo encantar' (Can-
not sing, but I can enchant).
JOSE ANTONIO AGUIRRE. 363
Spear and Henry Melius were very good friends.
Each called the other covipadre, though this relation did
not actually exist between them. I have heard Spear
speak in the highest terms of Melius, and compliment
him for good business judgment.
The following is a list of the vessels which were
sent out to Henry Melius by Bryant & Sturgis. while
acting as their agent : ship " California," Captain Arthur ;
ship " Alert," Captain Phelps ; ship " Barnstable," (first
voyage) Captain Hatch ; ship " Barnstable," (second
voyage) Captain Hall; ship "Admittance." Captain
Peterson; bark " Tasso," Captain Libbey; and bark
'• Olga," Captain Bull.
Don Jose Antonio Aguirre was one of the most
prominent early merchants of California. At the time
of the separation of Mexico from the Spanish govern-
ment, he was in business in the city of Mexico, and
largely interested in trade with Manila and Canton,
which was carried on extensively between those places
and Mexico. The importation of cargoes of Manila
and China goods, was a branch of the business he con-
ducted. , He remained loyal to Spain after the separa-
tion, and in consequence was expelled from Mexico, as
was the case with many other loyal Spaniards. Com-
ing to California he made his mercantile headquarters
at Santa Barbara and San Diego. He owned the brig
" Leonidas," and afterward the " Joven Guipuzcoana."
Fine-looking and of commanding appearance, though
of rather a severe bearing toward strangers, his man-
364 JOSE ANTONIO AGUIRRE.
ners were affable and genial to those who knew him
well. He was a genuine merchant, thoroughly edu-
cated. His first wife was a dauo^hter of Prefect Es-
tudillo, of San Diego. In 1842 Aguirre had the finest
residence in Santa Barbara. His wife dying there, he
afterward married her sister. He was a great church
man, and a favorite of the missionaries. He had visited
the United States; was well-read, and was appreciative
of our institutions and government.
In conversing with me he gave expression to
his views with regard to us ; he thought that at the
rate we were progressing in time we would be thegreat-
est nation on earth. One thing about which he spoke
seemed to have produced in him amazement : that in
the courts, which he sometimes visited from interest or
curiosity, during the trial of a case, he would hear the
arguments on either side, in which the opposing coun-
sel appeared to be the greatest enemies, ready to tear
each other to pieces, and yet, after the trial was closed,
they would calm down and be the best of friends ; and
the same peculiarity was noticeable in our elections,
when the prejudices and passions of men were excited
on opposite sides ; when resentments were aroused,
hot words were exchanged, and all kinds of abusive
things were said ; yet, after the election, the combatants
came together on the best of terms. He thought this
a fine trait in the American character, and spoke of it
with admiration.
JOSE ANTONIO AGUIRRE. 365
Aguirre was my guest from the early part of 1848
up to end of 1849. Spear was there at the same time,
and Aguirre and he became cronies. Often they had
dissensions, but only upon political and national affairs.
The proposition that the United States might ac-
quire Cuba by conquest or purchase had been broached,
and Spear argued in favor of it, which would anger
Aguirre, and he would denounce the project in severe
terms, declaring in emphatic language that Spain would
fight to the last drop of blood before she would surren-
der the island.
This worthy gentlemen had a large estate. The
San Jacinto Nuevo Rancho, of eleven leagues, and sev-
eral other smaller ranchos in San Diego county, and
two or three leagues in Los Angeles county, were
among his possessions, besides many cattle and horses.
Four children and his wife survived him. The widow
afterward married another Spaniard named Ferrer, who
squandered all the property which the first husband had
left to her.
CHAPTER XLV.
A New Arrival on the Scene, in the Person of Miguel de Pedrorena — Something
Concerning Him^He Assists in getting Horses for Stockton's Command —
Displays Bravery in Battle — Ingenious Device of Gale and Robinson to Dis-
pose of a Cargo of Merchandise— Indians as Boat-Builders, Boatmen and
Otter Hunters — A Vessel Seized — Her Cargo Confiscated — A Knock-down
on Board — Thompson, the Supercargo, Borne off and Imprisoned — The
Cargo Released and Thompson Set Free — Suicide of Henry Paty at Sea —
Everett Arrives Again on the Bark " Tasso " — An Exceptionally Disagreeable
Man.
In 1838 Don Miguel de Pedrorena, a resident of
Peru, arrived here, being at the time part owner and
supercargo of the " Dehnira." The vessel was under
the Peruvian flag, and John Vioget was her captain.
The " Delmira " was loaded with tallow, and left
the coast in 1839, Don Miguel remaining here. In
1840 the brig "Juan Jose," Captain Duncan, was sent
to him from Peru, he being part owner and supercargo.
The other owners, whom he represented, were in Lima
— a wealthy house. Most of their goods were imported
from Europe to Peru, and they sought to increase their
business by these ventures to California. The " Juan
Jose " loaded with tallow, and returned to Peru. After-
ward she made another voyage hither for the same sort
of cargo.
Don Miguel was a native of Spain, and belonged
to one of the first families of Madrid. After receiv-
ing an education in his own country he was sent to Lon-
don, where he was educated in English, becoming a
MIGUEL DE PEDRORENA. 367
complete scholar. Most of the Castillian race of the
upper class are proud and aristocratic ; but Don Mi-
guel, though of high birth, was exceedingly affable,
polite, gracious in manner and bearing, and, in every
respect, a true gentleman. He married a daughter of
Prefect Estudillo, and resided in San Diego until the
time of his death in 1850, leaving one son, Miguel, and
two daughters, Elena and Ysabel. He was a member
of the convention at Monterey in 1849, for the forma-
tion of the state constitution. He owned the Cajon
Rancho and San Jacinto Nuevo Rancho, each contain-
inor eleven leas^ues, with some cattle and horses. Not-
withstanding these large holdings of land he was in
rather straightened circumstances in his latter years,
and so much in need of money that when I visited San
Diego in the early part of 1850 he offered to sell
me thirty-two {32) quarter-blocks of land (102 lots)
in San Diego at a low figure. He had acquired the
property in the winter of 1849-50, at the alcalde's sale.
I did not care for the land, but being flush, and having a
large income from my business, I took the land, paying
him thirteen or fourteen hundred dollars for it.
In Madrid he had several brothers and other
relatives, one of his brothers being a Minister at that
time in the Cabinet of the reigning monarch. During
the last two or three years of his life, these relatives
becoming aware of his unfortunate circumstances,
wrote to him repeatedly, urging him to come home to
Spain, and bring his family with him. They sent him
368
MAJOR HENSLEV.
means, and assured him that he would be welcomed.
Though poor, his proud disposition led him to decline
all these offers. Popular with everybody in the depart-
ment, the recollections of him by those who knew him
are exceedingly pleasant. Spear was much attracted
toward him on account of his fine scholarship and great
store of information. He did all he could to make the
acquaintance mutually agreeable.
When Commodore Stockton was making his prep-
arations for the recapture of Los Angeles, in the latter
part of 1846, at San Diego, at which point the fleet
then lay, Don Miguel Pedrorena offered his services as
cavalryman, which were accepted. He also rendered aid
to Stockton before he started on the expedition, by pro-
curing him supplies of horses. Being an active man,
familiar with the country and people, he did this very
readily, Don Santiaguito E, Arguello also volunteered
his services to Stockton, and assisted Pedrorena. Both
of these men were appointed captains in Stockton's
force, and both had cavalry commands. Major Sam-
uel J, Hensley, who joined Stockton at Yerba Buena
in the fall of 1846, and went with him to San Diego in
the " Congress," also joined Pedrorena and Arguello in
scouring the country for horses, and getting as many
of the Californians as they could to join the expedition.
Hensley also had a command under Stockton. Not
only before the force started, but during their progress
from San Diego to the river of San Gabriel, these
three men rendered invaluable service to the commodore
THE AGENTS OF BRVANT & STURGIS. 369
by inducing other Californians to join and augment the
force. I think there were about one hundred CaHfor-
nians on Stockton's side, when the conflict took pxjace.
Hensley, who had been in the country a good while,
was an accomplished horseman, entirely at home in the
saddle. He and Pedrorena and Arguello were brave
men, cool, collected, self-po.ssessed, determined, and
consequently were of value. In the battle they all dis-
played great judgment and bravery.
Don Santiaguito was an Indian fighter, and had
been always foremost in proceeding promptly against
the Indians whenever they committed depredations on
the people, as they often did. He organized many of
the hasty expeditions which were gotten up on the spur
of the moment to pursue and chastise them on such
occasions, and was verv successful in overtaking and
punishing them as they deserved. Often he was in a
good deal of danger in the engagements, and I have
known him at times to be in very critical circumstances,
but never in the least flurried or excited — always calm
and collected, fully aware of what he was about, bring-
ing himself finally out all right. This man was a nephew
of Don Luis Aroruello, the first native California 2fov-
ernor of the department.
In 1834 Alfred Robinson and William G. Gale,
who were associated in the agency for Bryant & Stur-
gis, were at Santa Barbara, awaiting the arrival of the
ship "California" at that port. One day seeing a ves-
sel approach the town, between the islands, they went
Zl*^ MORE CALIFORNIA CUSTOMS.
toward the beach and made her out to be their vessel.
On their way they met Thomas Shaw, supercargo of
the " Lagoda," coming up to the town, when Robinson
called out exultingly to him, " Look out, Shaw ! There's
the 'California' coming; you'll have some competition
now."
The Missions were rich at the time, and the two
agents, in order to make large sales of goods, con-
cocted an ingenious plan, which they carried into effect,
as follows : After the captain had been ordered to take
the ship to Monterey, they started up the coast on
horses, with their invoices of goods. Pretending to be
rivals, Gale would go first, on coming to a Mission, and
present his invoice to the Padres, and after they had
made large selections from the list, Robinson, who was
much liked by the Fathers and friendly with all of them,
smilingly*^ presented his invoice, and made extensive
sales also. Repeating this at other Missions, by the
time Monterey was reached they had sold an enormous
quantity of merchandise. Each had prepared a list
of the cargo.
Gale was known on the coast by the name of Don
Guillermo el Cuatro Ojos (Four Eyes), from the fact
that he wore glasses ; this name having been bestowed
by the Californians, who were given to nicknaming a
person with anything peculiar in his appearance or man-
ner. By such name he was known to everybody during
his stay here. The custom prevailed more particularly
in the southern portion of the department, where two
BOATS OF ANCIENT PATTERN. 37 1
ladies, cousins of my wife, were nicknamed, one "N^u-
tria' (Sea Otter) and the other ''Pichona" (Dove), and
so addressed to this day.
The Padres not only taught the Indians to build
vessels and boats, but instructed them also in their man-
agement, and made sailors of them. They were some-
times employed as such by myself and other merchants
at Yerba Buena, upon boats that were attached to the
vessels, or that were owned on shore, in the delivery of
goods and collecting hides and tallow. The Padres
also instructed the Indians how to shoot and capture
otters in the best manner. Hence, their accumulation
of so large a number of fur skins, when the sea otters
were plentiful about the bay and along the coast.
I remember that in 1833, hides and tallow were
brought to the vessel in schooners and launches manned
and commanded by Indians, from the Mission Dolores
and the Missions of San Jose, Santa Clara and San
Rafael, the vessels and boats having been built at the
Missions by the Indians, under instructions from the
Padres, after designs and models prepared by them of
a very ancient pattern. They reminded me of illustra-
tions of old vSpanish vessels.
Richardson owned one of these vessels, built at
the Mission of San Rafael, called the " Tava," and
the old Indian Monico was one of the crew, who were
all Indians. Old Domintro Peraltahad another of these
peculiar boats, built at one of the Missions. Nathan
Spear had control of a boat of this kind in 1839, be-
■Ty'J2 A SUPERCARGO IN TROUBLE.
longing to the Mission of San Jose. It will be seen
that the Padres, in addition to their missionary work
and the teaching of various trades to the Indians, were
also shipwrights and skilled workmen in the building of
vessels and boats.
About 1833 the brig " Loriot." Captain Nye, ar-
rived from Honolulu with a cargo of merchandise, A.
B. Thompson, supercargo. Shortly after, orders were
sent from Monterey to have the vessel and cargo seized,
upon the presumption that full duties had not been paid.
Don Jose Sanchez was directed to board the vessel and
arrest Thompson. He accordingly proceeded to do so,
accompanied by a squad of soldiers. Reaching the deck
of the vessel and approachmg to make the arrest, San-
chez drew a pistol and aimed it at Thompson, who in-
stantly struck it from the officer's hand, and at the same
moment knocked him down and jumped upon him. The
soldiers came to Sanchez' aid and gave him protection.
Thompson was taken ashore and imprisoned at the
Presidio, where he remained for some considerable time.
After his arrest the whole cargo was removed to shore,
together with the stores of the vessel, and the sails
were unbent and taken away. P^inally an order was re-
ceived from headquarters to release the cargo and other
property of the vessel and to liberate Thompson, which
was carried into effect. During the detention the cargo
and stores deteriorated in condition, particularly the lat-
ter, which were also much diminished in quantity.
The trip of the "Loriot" to Honolulu from Bos-
ton, prior to her coming here, was one of the longest
REDWOOD LUMBER IN 1 849. 373
on record — occupying two hundred days. On this voy-
age, Henry, a younger brother of Captain Paty, came
out, also Eh Southworth, both from Plymouth, Mass.
Henry was part owner of the " Don Quixote," and in
the year 1840, while the vessel was on a voyage from
Valparaiso to Honolulu, many of the crew were sick
from small-pox contracted in Chili, and several died on
the passage, which so affected the mind of Henry that
though not taking the disease, he became demented.
Looking^ into a mirror in his state-room, he took a razor
and cut his throat. He was buried at sea. Southworth
was interested in the " Don Quixote." From 1843 to
1845 he was with me in Verba Buena as my clerk.
After 1849 h^ went to the redwoods, and engaged men
in getting out lumber for a number of years, but did not
make a success of the venture, financially. In 1853 he
came to live at my house at San Leandro, and remained
there until hedied, in 1857.
As an exception to the uniformity of friendship
and good feeling which prevailed on the coast in early
days between the foreigners and Californians, and, in
fact, between all classes in all their relations, I wish to
mention that Everett, who has been spoken of as com-
ing here in the " Alert," was a disagreeable man. He
arrived again in the bark " Tasso," as supercargo, with
Captain Hastings, in 1840. Mean, selfish, and repulsive
in his appearance and manners, his unhappy disposition
was shown by his continually quarreling with Cap-
tain Hastings, who was a gentleman. However,
374 AN UNPOPULAR SUPERCARGO.
notwithstanding his unpopularity and the general dis-
favor with which he was regarded, he succeeded in filling
his vessel, for the reason that the people were in want
of the goods which he had brought, and therefore they
took them in exchange for hides and tallow. Everett,
contrary to the usual custom of the merchants, never
made presents to the people, or showed them any friendly
courtesies. They themselves were always generous
to strangers, making them welcome to whatever they
had. They would have disdained an offer of compen-
sation for such kindness. But the merchants, having
been so well treated by them, and having shared, more
or less, in their hospitality, naturally reciprocated the
good feeling, and showed their appreciation and friend-
ship by making presents from time to time, thereby
cultivating a kindly spirit.
CHAPTER XLVI.
Young Pacheco and his Studies — His Wealthy Family meets with Misfortune in
the Loss of Live Stock, in the Drouth of 1864— Statement of the Export
Trade in Hides and Tallow — Estimate of Tallow Exportation — Signaling
from Shore for Vessels in the Harbor to come for Fresh Beef — Places for
Slaughtering Cattle — A Ludicrous Gastronomic Contest — Vioget afterwards
Employed by the Author as Captain of the " Euphemia."
Governor Pacheco, a boy in 1842, was sent to
Honolulu to be educated. After remaining about two
years, under the tuition of Mr. and Mrs. Johnston, he
returned. The ship " Sterling" then being in port, he
went on board, and for a year or more traveled about
in company with Thomas B. Park, supercargo, from
whom he received a orood deal of instruction in mer-
cantile matters ; it being a fine opportunity for the
young man, who was bright and teachable. In 1861 he
went to Europe, on a tour of travel and observation.
At that time, and prior, his stepfather, Captain Wilson,
and his mother and the family owned several extensive
ranches in San Louis Obispo county, adjoining one
another, which the captain had bought from different
owners, and which contained fourteen thousand to six-
teen thousand head of cattle, and many horses ; being a
large number of cattle for a single owner at that date.
After the death of Captain Wilson, the family met with
the misfortune of losing the cattle and horses by star-
vation in the dry season of 1864, nearly all of their
stock perishing for lack of feed. At this time vaqueros
^i^d HIDE AND TALLOW EXPORTS.
were busily employed taking off the hides. They
were obliged to work very speedily (so many cattle
were dead, and others dyings day by day), to save the
skins in marketable condition. The hiring of men was
expensive, and left but little profit on the hides, The
great loss was the beginning and cause of financial
troubles, and they lost nearly the whole of their land.
A statement of the export of hides and tallow
from the department of California, from 1826 to 1848,
has been prepared by me, gathered partly from actual
knowledge of the cargoes taken by particular vessels,
and partly estimated from the size of the' vessels which
loaded previous to my residence here ; these vessels
always taking full cargoes on their return to the At-
lantic coast, viz :
No. of Hides.
Ship " Brookline," departure 1831 40,000
Ship "Courier," Capt. Cunningham, departure 1828 40,000
Bark " Louisa,'' Capt. Wood, departure 1831 25,000
Bark " Volunteer,"' Capt. Carter, departure 1832 20,000
Ship " California," departure 1833 40,000
Brig " Newcastle," departure 1833 10,000
Brig " Plant," tender to " California" 1833 10,000
Schooner " Harriet Blanchard," departure 1833 8,000
Bark "Volunteer," Capt. Carter, departure 1834 20,000
Brig " Roxana," tender to " California" 1834.- 10,000
Brig " Pilgrim," Captain Falcon, departure 1834 10,000
Ship "Alert," Capt. Frank Thompson, (R. H. Dana came out
on this vessel), departure 1834 40,000
Ship " Lagoda," Capt. Bradshaw, departure 1836 40,000
Bark " Kent," Capt. Steele, departure winter 1836-37 30,000
Brig "Bolivar Liberator," Capt. Nye, three or four trips,
departures 1836 to 1843 60,000
Ship •' California," Capt. Arthur, departure 1837 40.000
Ship " Rasselas," Capt. Carter. Honolulu, departure 1837.. . 35,000
Ship "Alert," Capt. Penhallow, departure winter 1838-39. . . 40,000
ENORMOUS PRODUCT OF TALLOW. ^^TJ
Bark " Don Quixote,"' Captain Paty, four or five trips to Hon-
olulu, departures 1838 to 1845 60,000
Ship " Alciope,"' Capt. Clapp, departure 1840 30,000
Ship " California," Capt. Arthur, departure winter 1840-41 . . 40,000
Ship " Monsoon," Capt. Vincent, departure winter 1840-41... 40,000
Bark " Tasso,'" Capt. Hastings, departure winter 1841-42 ... 35,000
Ship '• Alert," Capt. Phelps, departure winter 1842-43 40,000
Ship ■' Barnstable," Capt. Hatch, departure 1843-44 40,000
Ship '• California,"' Capt. Arthur, departure 1843-44 40,000
Ship " Fama," Capt. Hoyer, departure 1843-44 20,00°
Ship "Admittance," Capt. Peterson, departure 1845 40,000
Ship "Sterling," Capt. "Vincent, departure 1845 30,000
Ship " Vandalia." Capt. Everett, departure 1846 40,000
Ship "Barnstable," Capt. Hall, departure winter 1846-47 . . . 40,000
Bark '• Tasso." Capt. Libbey. departure 1847 35j00o
Bark " Olga," Capt. Bull, departure winter 1847-48 25,000
Total 1,068,000
Probably an underestimate. The actual number
of hides exported approximated one million and a
quarter.
With regard to the amount of tallow exported
during the above period — -I have already mentioned that
the killing sea.son was when the cattle were the fattest,
each bullock producing on an average three to four ar-
robas (twenty-five pounds) of tallow, besides the manteca
reserved for home use. I n the winter season, when cattle
were killed for home consumption and for the use of
the vessels, the tallow would average perhaps not over
one arroba to the bullock. Taking the whole year
through, I place the product of tallow, for export, at two
arrobas for each animal killed, which, for the one mil-
lion and a quarter, would give 62,500.000 pounds of
tallow.
378 DEER-SKIN SHOES.
The Californians cut up a great many hides for
the use of the ranchos. Strips of the skins were used
for reatas and in building corrals, also for covering
wagons and for many other purposes. Many of the
rancheros tanned their own leather, for corasas, nio-
chillas, angiieras and tapaderas. Some of the sons of
the rancheros were shoemakers, and made shoes for
home use. The soles of the shoes were made from the
leather, and tanned deer skin was used for the uppers.
The hides were also used to cover the trees of the sad-
dles and for other purposes. Large quantities of tal-
low were used by the rancheros for candles and for
soap. Large amounts of the latter were made by the
rancheros of the valleys of San Jose, Gilroy and Pajaro
and sold to the Russians for export to Alaska.
A vessel in the bay, about once a week ordered
a bullock for ship's use from one of the ranchos nearest
by, which would be brought in alive by a vaquero, aided
by a cabestro, to the meadow between Washington and
California streets at the water side. A little below
Spear's store there was a scaffolding, with fall and
tackle, for hoisting the cattle by the horns after being
killed, erected by some ship's crew for the use ot the
vessel and left there. Each of the vessels in the bay
had a signal deposited at the store, and when a bullock
was brought in for a vessel or if, for any other purpose
It was desirable to give notice, the signal was displayed.
If the tide was up to the beach, then a boat would be
sent ashore, or if a bullock was expected, perhaps it
BLUCHER VIOGET. 379
would be sighted, with the aid of a glass, from the ves-
sel, and the crew coming ashore, prepared with knives,
the animal was dispatched, cut up, and the meat taken
aboard, together with the hide, which was stretched
above the deck, or against the main rigging, to dry.
Sometimes the cattle were killed in the primitive
method, and cut up without hoisting, thus leaving more
of the blood in the beef. They were so killed and the
meat prepared at Thompson's Cove, which was a little
bay south of Clark's Point, and between that and Buck-
alew or Watchman's Point, where Thompson had abide
house. Cattle were likewise slaughtered at Monterey,
San Luis Obispo, Santa Barbara, San Pedro and San
Diego, and at other ports or landings, on the beach, for
the use of vessels. The cattle were slaughtered upon
the ground, and cut up as they lay, no hoisting ap-
paratus being used.
Captain Steele came here in command of the bark
'■ Kent," in 1835, from Boston. He was good-natured
and jocular, a vegetarian, and during his stay never
touched meat. The Fourth of July being celebrated
in Yerba Buena in 1836, by a public dinner. Captain
Steele was i)resent, and also John Vioget, two men
who were like Damon and Pythias — of the same dis-
position and temperament, and always around about
the same time. At this banquet. Steele christened
Vioget as Blucher (after the officer who saved Wel-
lington from defeat at Waterloo). By that title he was
afterward known on the coast ; called by it even more
than bv his real name.
380 AN EATING CONTEST.
Vioget was one of the principals in an incident of
somewhat ridiculous nature. In 1841 a Russian by the
name of Don Andres Hoeffener. was employed for a
considerable time by General Vallejo as teacher of
music for his daughters, at Sonoma, and frequently
visited Yerba Buena. Being an excellent musician —
playing with taste and skill the piano, violin and guitar
— he was popular and well liked, such men being much
appreciated by the people, who had little in the way of
good music or amusements. Being sociable and com-
panionable he frequented V'^ioget's saloon, and became
a particular friend of the proprietor.
The latter was known on the coast as a great
eater, and prided himself on that reputation. Hoeffen-
er and several others being in the saloon one day en-
joying themselves, the question of gormandising was
brought before the company, and he challenged Vioget
to a contest to determine who was the biggest eater in
the department. Hoeffener not being known or sus-
pected in connection with gastronomic feats, the chal-
lenge was instantly accepted, and a day was hxed tor
the contest. Invitations were sent out to the merchants
to attend. I was invited, as were also Spear and others.
When the trial commenced pancakes were brought
on, plate after plate, and speedily devoured. Hoefte-
ner was one plate ahead. The next course was beet-
steaks, all of which disappeared as rapidly as had the
other. Hoeffener lead a little on the steaks. Next was
gisado, a meat stew in the Spanish style — a delicious
THE CONTESTANTS FINE MUSICIANS. 38 1
dish, several plates of which were consumed. Next
came asado, or beef broiled on the spit, many plates.
Hoeffener a little ahead. After this, beans, Spanish
style, large quantities of which were disposed of; suc-
ceeded by tamales, corn prepared as before described,
each of the contestants eating at least a dozen. An im-
mense pudding then appeared, followed by pies of vari-
ous kinds, which were largely consumed. All the food
had been prepared in the nicest manner, and made in-
viting, by skilled cooks — old Jack Fuller and assistant.
The wind up was black coffee, but during the meal no
drink was taken. \Moget gave out on the pies. Hoefife-
ner. still eating, was declared the winner. All were as-
tonished at the quantity of viands that went down the
throats of those two men. After concluding their re-
past they got up and moved round, smoked, drank a
little wine, played billiards, and appeared to suffer no
inconvenience from the meal each had consumed.
Vioget was of large frame ; Hoeffener taller, nearly
six feet in height, slender, but well proportioned. I
have no doubt each of the gormands ate food enough
to satisfy a dozen hungry men. Both contestants were
good musicians, Vioget playing the violin as finely as
Hoeffener. The former was also an excellent civil en-
gineer, and had been employed by Captain Sutter in
surveying his lands. Don Andres Hoeffener's wife
was a Russian lady, a pretty little woman, and, like
women in general at Yerba Buena, was much appre-
ciated.
382
VIOGET S DEFEAT EXPLAINED.
Vioget was afterward captain of the brior " Euphe-
mia," in 1848. Referring to his defeat in the eating
match, he said that if he had been as young as Hoeffe-
ner the latter would not have had any show at all. He
was some fifteen or twenty years older.
CHAPTER XLVII.
An Attempted Partnership Fails — E. & II. Grimes and the Author Purchase the
"Euphemia" — She is put into the Honohilu Trade — A Visit to Gen. Castro
— Business Shrewdness — A Gift that is appreciated — The Author Auspiciously
Inaugurated as a Merchant — Ingratiates himself by Firing a Salute from the
Vessel— Guests present at a Party on Shipboard — A Customs Officer afraid of
Scorpions — The Custom House used as a Salesroom — Transactions of Mutual
Accommodation between Merchants, the Customs Officers and Mexican
Government— The Pleasant Surprise of Captain Grimes.
I went over to Honolulu in 1845 ^^ supercargo of
the " Don Quixote," with Captain Paty, and while there
a partnership was proposed between him, his brother
William and myself, under which the ownership of the
vessel was to be transferred, one-half to me and one-
fourth to each of the brothers ; but we could not agree
upon her valuation. William Paty thought the vessel
was worth $8000, which I thought was too high. Cap-
tain Meek agreed with me, saying that, considering her
age, $5000 or $6000 would be a good price for the bark.
The negotiations, therefore, fell through, and my rela-
tions with Captain Paty ceased, under the circumstan-
ces much to my regret.
Afterward, several merchants and firms at Hono-
lulu, among them Stephen Reynolds, who had been
the United States vice-consul, E. & H. Grimes, and
Starkey, Janion & Co. (a heavy English house), made
propositions to furnish me with a vessel to trade on the
California coast, the business to be partly mine. The
384 PURCHASING A VESSEL AND CARGO.
offer of E. & H. Grimes was accepted. We purchased
the " Euphemia," an Enq;^lish brig which had been em-
ployed by Henry Skinner & Co. in the Chinese trade.
Then came a difficulty with regard to the papers and
flag of the vessel, inasmuch as the Grimes and myself
were Americans. We had selected an Englishman by
the name of Thomas Russom for captain, a very good
man, who was then at Honolulu ; and to sail under the
English flag we should have been obliged to have
the papers made out in the captain's name ; but we did
not think it advisable to entrust so much to one man
not directly interested with us, however responsible and
trustworthy he might be. In order to avoid the diffi-
culty, Hiram Grimes, who had a good deal of influence
with the premier, Mr. Wiley (an old Scotchman, who
had lived in South America many years), succeeded in
getting the vessel registered in his name, under the
Hawaiian flag.
We then purchased the cargo of the vessel, which
occupied a month, selecting with care and judgment
such articles as were suited to the California trade,
picking here and there the best we could obtain. At
the same time the Patys also purchased a cargo for the
"Don Quixote." The "Euphemia," with her cargo,
cost between $50,000 and $60,000, my share being
$17,000 or $18,000. Having saved my salary for sev-
eral years, and accumulated money by speculations
with the whalers, etc., I was able to pay about half this
amount into the concern, leaving the other payable in
A WEALTHY LADY OF HONOLULU. 385
six months, for which I gave my note to E. & H. Grimes
(the first note I ever gave). In contracting with them
it was stipulated that the business on this coast should
be done in the name of Wilham H. Davis only, their
names not appearing.
My mother was living in Honolulu and was wealthy,
owning a large number of cattle, which were good prop-
erty, as they were always in demand by the ships of
war, whalers and other vessels visiting the Islands. She
offered me money to assist in carrying on the business,
but I declined it. preferring to act within mv own re-
sources ; and I really did not need it.
These vessels both left Honolulu February 26,
1846. A strong southeasterly gale sprang up, which
was in their .favor, and in less than two weeks' time the
bark anchored at Monterey. Our brig had occasion to
touch at a lower coast port before calling at Monterey,
and did not reach that place until the last day of March.
The " Don Quixote " was then ready to leave for San
Bias, she having been chartered to take Castillero as
commissioner to represent California in the City of
Mexico.
Soon after we anchored. I went on board that
vessel and was warmly greeted by Captain Paty and
Eli South worth, they having feared that some misfor-
tune had happened, on account of the long delay of thv,
brig. I then went ashore and called on General
Castro, comandante-general of the department.
25
386 A SALUTE IN HONOR OF THE MEXICAN FLAG.
During this visit I ventured upon a little diplo-
macy, in order to place myself on a good footing with
the officials, as this was my first venture of any magni-
tude on my own behalf. I noticed that the window and
door-frames and woodwork about the headquarters were
unpainted, and mentioned to the general that I had on
board my vessel some paints and oils, and with his ap-
proval I would send a few kegs ashore for his use. He
said those materials were scarce and he should receive
them with a great deal of pleasure.
On this occasion I was accompanied by United
States Consul Larkin. While we were there I was in-
troduced to Mrs. General Castro, and we chatted for
some time very pleasantly. I saw by the general's ex-
pression, when she went into the next room for a few
minutes, that he was proud of her. Larkin found an
opportunity to communicate, enthusiastically, " Isn't
she beautiful?" and I responded, with equal enthu-
siasm, "Indeed, she is."
On returning to my vessel I sent and borrowed
two cannons from the bark, got them aboard, and fired
a salute in honor of the Mexican flag, which was
promptly returned by the comandante from the fort.
Thus, my introduction to the port of Monterey as a
merchant in my own behalf was happily accomplished,
and everything made smooth for future trade.
Then I called on the collector, Don Pablo de la
Guerra. He was living with his sister, Mrs. Jimeno.
He said at once that the other vessel had been there
CUSTOM-HOUSE BROKERS. 387
two or three weeks, and that my brig had only just got
in ; as both had sailed the same day, he wanted to know
how that was. I said to him, " Look at the brig. She
is more Hke a box than anything else. She is no sailer,"
He responded that I was correct; that she was indeed
like a box, and it was not surprising that she had made
a long voyage. I sent to Don Pablo from my cargo a
basket of champagne, and to Mrs. Jimeno some sweet
potatoes and cocoanuts, which were regarded as lux-
uries at Monterey.
It was customary when a vessel came into port
to enter, to give the management of the custom house
business to a shore merchant, who acted as broker. He
made the entry, assuming the responsibility of the
transaction — paving the way, if any difficulties arose.
Larkin, Hartnell, Spear and Spence sometimes acted
in a similar capacity The merchant received a proper
commission for the service. On this occasion I em-
ployed Larkin to make the entry.
The law required the collector and his officers to
go on board any vessel arriving with dutiable goods
and make a thorough examination. Captains or super-
cargoes would invite merchants from on shore and other
friends to accompany the officials. Quite a party as-
sembled, the event being made one of entertainment. A
handsome collation was provided of meats, fowls, jams,
jellies, pies, cakes, fruits, champagne and other wines
of which all would partake, and an enjoyable time
be had. We spread a table, and received and enter-
388 DUTIES PAYABLE IN NOTES.
tained the guests as handsomely as any one could.
Among those present were : Henry Melius, Captain
Eliab Grimes, Don Jose Abrigo, Larkin, de la Guerra,
the collector, and two or three of his officers, one of
whom was Don Rafael Pintito, an attache of the customs
service [adicana) for a great many years.
The custom house inspector was a curious old
Mexican who had lost his teeth, and his sentences were
mumbled in a queer way ; but he was polite and gentle-
manly withal, and while going through the formality of
looking about the vessel to examine her, I accom-
panied him. The main hatch was off, and I said that
if he wished to go down into the hold, I would have a
ladder brought for his accommodation, and that he
should be assisted down. He replied that he was not
very particular. I remarked that there were a good
many scorpions among the cargo. These creatures had
got in at the Islands, and in the warm latitude they had
bred very fast. When I mentioned scorpions, he step-
ped back, really frightened, and making up a ludicrous
face, declared vehemently that he had no desire to go
into the hold-^thoroughly alarmed at the idea. The
duties on the cargo amounted to ten thousand dollars.
The merchants, when they entered goods, used to
pay about half the duties in cash, and give their notes
for the remainder, payable in sixty or ninety days, the
custom house allowing them this accommodation. Not
having sufficient money to pay these duties — although
Captain Grimes and other merchants offered to procure
WOMEN AND CE^ILDREN BUYING MERCHANDISE. 389
it for me, which offer I declined — a plan was adopted
to realize more speedily upon the car<^o than could
have been done on the vessel and selling there, as
was common. Obtaining the use for a short time of a
large room in the custom house, with ample space for
my purpose, the crew brought the cargo ashore, and the
ship's carpenter put up a table eighty feet long, in the
room so secured, on which I sampled the goods for
sale. William F, Swasey, who had recently come to
the coast, was looking for employment, and I engaged
him to assist me.
The plan was an admirable success. Men.
women and children gathered in crowds, finding it
much more convenient than to qo aboard the vessel,
where the goods could'nt have been seen to advantage.
They were also attracted by the novelty of the arrange-
ments. They bought in quantities to suit. Within
a week I had taken some five thousand dollars in cash,
on sales amounting to fifteen thousand dollars; so that
I was able to pay half of the cash duties demanded,
and had some money left. My notes went into the
custom house for the remainder.
The collector and his officers were always in debt
to the merchants for goods. The notes they gave
were sometimes turned in for duties, the customs officers
arranging the matter with the government. The col-
lector of course reported to the government all duties
collected, this being its only source of revenue ; and if
in need of money for government use, the governor
390 DOUBTS REMOVED.
would direct the collector to negotiate to the best ad-
vantage with merchants what paper he had, at a dis-
count. Or frequently the government owed mer-
chants for supplies used by the troops, such as mus-
kets, ammunition, shoes and other clothing, and would
require money for the troops, who were regularly paid '
and used the notes in settlement with the mer-
chants, and to obtain money to pay the troops. The
merchants were glad to take notes {v.'hich had been
given for duties), either in liquidation of their claims,
or for cash loaned, as they would be paid at maturity*
in hides and tallow, by the parties who signed them.
Melius was at Monterey before I arrived, and he waited
until I came, and secured in part liquidation of his firm's
claim against the government most of the notes I gave
the collector.
On my arrival, Captain Eliab Grimes was at Con-
sul Larkin's house. He greeted me gruffly, and said,
" Well, Hiram has been playing the devil down there,
buying a vessel and cargo for $50,000 or $60,000, and
sending her up here ! " The captain, being the main
man of the concern, naturally felt some doubt about his
nephew and myself (who were young men) succeeding
in this speculation. I told him I had paid about $9,-
000 in cash on my interest, and was owing about as
much more, to be paid in six months. " Well, do you
expect to pay it ? " he asked, rather savagely. " I hope
to do so," was my reply. Producing the well known
liquor case, which he carried with him wherever he
NATHAN SPEAR IN ILL HEALTH. 39 1
went, we had a orlass or two together, and he asked for
all the details of the venture in partnership with his
nephew and himself.
I narrated the transactions in full, at which he
seemed to feel reassured. He had been greatly con-
cerned about our buying the vessel and cargo. He
was also pleased afterward, when I informed him of my
success in the sale of the goods at the custom house,
of which he had expressed doubt when I first men-
tioned the plan to him — having thought it would fail ;
and Melius was of the same opinion. The goods not
disposed of were taken on board again, and we sailed
for Santa Cruz. I made many sales there, taking my
pay in lumber and hides and tallow, to be delivered at
a future time. I then sent the vessel to Verba Buena,
and came up by land, making sales at San Jose, Santa
Clara and other places, by invoice, to the rancheros and
merchants — doing well. Reaching Verba Buena about
the 25th of April, I found that Spear had vacated his
store and moved to Napa, on account of ill health.
Hinckley was in town. Bob Ridley was keeping the
Vioget house, with his family, and I lodged with him.
The next morning I met Howard, who was here
with the " Vandalia." and for a day or so was a guest
on board his vessel, until my own arrived, while I sold
to rancheros round the bay until I had no goods remain-
ing. Josiah Belden assisted me in this work as one of
my clerks. The vessel then went over to Saucelito to
get in a supply of water. While she was there, Spear,
392 A JOLLY nic;ht.
who had come down from Napa, Hinckley and myself,
went over to spend a night on board. We had a good
supper, and a jolly time — talking over old matters, smok-
ing, singing and drinking champagne nearly the whole
night. Captain Russom was an admirable singer, and
he entertained us with songs, and the whole company
also sang.
This was the 20th of May, 1846, a heavy south-
east gale blowing, and during the evening the captain
went on deck to order the second anchor dropped, for the
greater security of the vessel. It rained hard all night.
The next day I visited Captain Richardson. The
day after, Captain and Mrs. Richardson, Miss Rich-
ardson and Miss Estudillo came on board the brig by
my invitation. Our steward and cook prepared a
choice dinner, which the guests enjoyed. I invited the
ladies to the salesroom and made them some presents.
I remember having given Mrs. Richardson some white
silk handkerchiefs and fancv Qroods, from the careo.
Meeting her a few years ago she said she still had the
handkerchiefs.
CHAPTER XLVIII.
The American Flag Hoisted at Monterey — The English Government Circumven-
ted — A Welcome to "American Soil " — Incidents preceding the Flag-hoisting
— Admiral Seymour Outwitted — Sloat's Hesitancy— Urged by Mervine to
Act without Delay — Commodore Stockton arrives in the "Congress," to
Relieve Commodore Sloat— The "Congress" Anchors in San Francisco
Harbor — The Author and Mervine Cultivate an Acquaintance — A Favorable
Impression of Commodore Stockton — A Grand Reception Tendered him on
Shore — The Commodore shown around by a Mounted Escort — The Influential
Native Californians Accept the Situation Gracefully — Revolt of the "Baser
Sort," in the Southern Portion of the State — Captain Mervine of the "Savan-
nah," then at Monterey, is sent under Orders to Suppress it — A Battle
Ensues — Captain Mervine's Forces driven back to their Vessels.
Shortly after, the "Euphemia" left Saucelito, bound
south, and we took on board at a southern coast port
an additional cargo of merchandise. About the last
day of May we arrived at San Pedro, and sold there
twenty-five thousand dollars' worth of goods. Thence
we sailed to Santa Barbara, where additional sales were
made, to the extent of eitrht or ten thousand dollars ;
thence to Monterey, arriving in July, 1846. On round-
ing Point Pinos we were surprised to see the United
States vessels of war at anchor, and the Stars and
Stripes floating from the staff over the town.
On the voyage up, Captain Russoni. myself and
the two mates, Lee and Colbath, and also the clerk,
R. M. Sherman, who were New England men, had
many little discussions about the probability of Mon-
terey being taken by the English. Owing to the
394 THE AMERICAN FLAG.
rumors of war between the United States and Mexico,
we were expecting it. The captain being an Eng-
Hshman, we Americans teased him, and boasted that
our country would certainly be the foremost. He des-
canted upon the pluck and enterprise of his country-
men, and declared that they would certainly plant their
flag in Monterey before the Americans had a chance.
As we rounded the Point and saw our flag floating
serenely over the town, we called out exultantly, " There
it is, Captain Russoni ! See the American flag flying ! "
He was discomfited, but made the best of it, frankly
saying that his countrymen were beaten. The " Euphe-
mia" was the first vessel to enter Monterey after the
American acquisition.
Going ashore, on ascending the steps of the wharf,
I was met by U. S. Consul Larkin, who introduced me
to Commodore Sloat, standing by his side. The com-
modore extended his hand, and said : " I am glad to
make your acquaintance, my dear sir, and to welcome
you to American soil ! "
In the course of his conversation he said, " Thank
God! we have got ahead of Seymour." He said that
he had determined to take the country at all hazards,
and he had done it. The commodore was an agile,
nervous little man, and was extremely well satisfied
with the exploit, his face being illumined with a perpetual
smile of satisfaction.
My vessel happened to have a variety of stores of
which the vessels of the squadron were in need, and
ADMIRAL SEYMOUR. 395
these wants I supplied, visiting the purser of the flag-
ship frequently in the transactions.
There I made the acquaintance of Post-Captain
Mervine, and saw him every day, the week I remained
there ; sometimes visiting him in his cabin, by his
invitation. He was portly, well proportioned, quick
and energetic in his manner, and impressed me as a man
of resolution and decision of character. He gave me
a little account of matters prior to the fleet's arrival.
He said the " Savannah" and " Cyane " were at Maz-
atlan, oscillating between that port and San Bias, wait-
ing for the news of the declaration of war, and the
English ship " Collinwood," Admiral Seymour, was
there at the same time. Captain Mervine said they
were watching Seymour and he was watching them.
If the " Savannah " ran from Mazatlan to San Bias,
the " Collinwood " followed her ; or, if the " Collin-
wood " ran from one place to another, the " Savannah"
was after her. Commodore Sloat, while on shore, hav-
ing received, unofficially, private information that war
had been declared between the United States and Mex-
ico, slipped away one night with his vessels and sailed
for Monterey, making all speed possible, not knowing
but they should find the " Collinwood " there before
them. Arriving first, however, on July 4th, Commo-
dore Sloat hesitated as to what he should do.
On the night of the 6th of July, a council of war was
called, at which were present the Commodore, Captain
Mervine, Captain Dupont of the " Cyane," and other
396 CAPTAIN MERVINE.
officers of the squadron, to discuss the matter, and to set-
tle upon a Hne of action.
Captain Mervine declared to me that Sloat still
seemed irresolute. At the council, the captain said :
" You hesitate, Commodore Sloat, but delay is danger-
ous ; the 'Collinwood' is right at our heels. You
know when we approached this port we thought we
might find her here before us and the English flag
raised on shore, in which case we should have had to
fight. It is more than your commission is worth to
hesitate in this matter. Although you have no direct
official information of the declaration of war between
the two countries, the unofficial news is to the effect
that war had been declared. If we don't hoist the
American flag, the English will take possession of this
capital ; so there is no time to be lost. It is our duty to
ourselves and to the country to run up the flag at once."
Captain Mervine remarked further, that he talked
so emphatically at the council of war that his sugges-
tions prevailed. The next morninp' the United States
flag floated over the town.
Mervine was outspoken and frank, unquestionably
a better qualified officer than Sloat. He was impatient
at the commodore's slowness and vacillation. It was
owing to the captain's decision and right comprehension
of the situation, in my opinion, that the flag was raised.
Eight days thereafter, the " Collinwood" came into
the bay. My vessel then lay at Santa Cruz, and we
heard the salutes. James Alexander Forbes, British
CAPTAIN MONTGOMERY. 397
vice-consul at the time, was in Monterey shortly after
the "Collinwood" arriv^ed. He learned from the offi-
cers of the ship, as he informed me, that, as they
rounded the Point, and the United States men-of-war
were discovered, and the American flag came in sight,
floating over the town, the British admiral stamped his
foot in rage, and flung his hat upon the deck. His
chagrin at the advantage which the Americans had
gained over him in this matter caused these demon-
strations.
The American flag was flying in Yerba Buena
when I reached there overland from Santa Cruz. The
United States ship "Portsmouth," Captain Montgomery,
was in port. I made the acquaintance of the captain,
and breakfasted with him one morning, by his invita-
tion, aboard the ship. He said, among other discussions
regarding the situation, that he felt some anxiety
about the relations of our government with England,
in connection with the Oregon Question, or the
boundary line dispute between the United States and
British Columbia; he thought that any time we might
learn that war had been declared between the two
countries ; that the vessel was ready for action, al-
though he was short of his full fighting complement, as
his marines were ashore, on guard, under Captain Wat-
son, yet he believed he could do good execution with
his vessel should an enemy be encountered.
While we were talking, it was reported to the cap-
tain that a strange vessel was in sight, coming up the
398 SLOOP OF WAR "PORTSMOUTH.
bay ; whereupon he ran out on deck to sight her, and
gave orders to have the men immediately beat to
quarters. This was done — a pretty sight which inter-
ested me very much. Every man stood at his post
ready for action. It might have been an Enghsh war
vessel approaching, and the captain thought it best to
be prepared for hostilities. Soon discovered it to be a
merchant vessel, we returned to the cabin. Washing-
ton A. Bartlett, third-lieutenant on the " Portsmouth,''
afterward alcalde at Yerba Buena, told me this was an
usual occurrence on board — beating the men to quarters
and getting ready as a vessel came in sight.
When my brig arrived, I took possession of
Spear's vacant premises, and transferred the remainder
of the cargo, opening a store for the sale of the goods.
The vessel was then sent to Santa Cruz, to load with
lumber for Honolulu. Leaving the store in charge of
employees, I went by land to meet the vessel about
the time the loading of cargo was completed, and there
found that the captain, and Sherman, the clerk, were
somewhat worried at my delay of a day or two, fearing
I might have been murdered by Indians in crossing the
Santa Cruz mountains. The brig being just ready,
we took her over to Monterey, where I prepared her
papers and accounts.
At this time I found Commodore Stockton had
arrived there in the " Congress," had relieved Commo-
dore Sloat, and taken command of the forces on the
Pacific Coast, Post-Captain Mervine had taken out
COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON. 399
some of the guns of the frigate "Savannah" and
mounted them on the fort over-looking the bay.
His men were drilling there, and were practicing in
firing at water targets — throwing bombs, to see at
what distance they would explode — all with reference
to the possibility of war with England. He invited
me to the fort once or twice to witness the practice,
which was very interesting.
The " Euphemia" was dispatched to Honolulu,
with the cargo of lumber and some furs. Remittances
were also sent by her in what were known as " Purser's
Bills," which I took in exchange for supplies furnished
the United States vessels, these bills being drawn by
the pursers on the department in Washington, and
countersigned by the commander. It was a conven-
ient method of remittance, the bills being at a premium.
I also sent $i,8oo in gold. Returned to Yerba Buena
shortly after, when the United States flag-ship
" Congress" came into the bay, with the commodore on
board.
When Commodore Stockton first arrived at
Monterey with the " Congress," he sent for Captain
Richardson to come from Saucelito to pilot the vessel.
In August the "Congress" left Monterey for San
Pedro. From there Stockton went to Los Antjeles to
confirm and more fully establish the possession of the
country by the United States, to make himself known
to the people, to begin friendly relations with them, as
their commander-in-chief, to make the acquaintance of
400 COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON.
the wealthy rancheros and to endeavor to impress upon
them that he was their friend.
The "Congress" soon returned to Monterey, and
came from there to Yerba Buena, Captain Richardson,
pilot ; who, while on the vessel, gave the commodore
valuable information about the country and the people.
These two men became great friends.
Upon the arrival of the "Congress," several of the
citizens of Yerba Buena called on Commodore Stockton
aboard the vessel to pay their respects, among whom I
remember were Spear, Captain Grimes, Howard and
Leidesdorff— perhaps seven or eight in all, includ-
ing myself. We were handsomely received by the
commodore and were favorably struck with his appear-
ance, which was that of a gentleman and thorough
commander. He was fine-looking, of dark complexion ;
frank and off-hand in manners and conversation ;
active and energetic. There was nothing weak or ef-
feminate about him. He at once impressed us as a
strong man and of decided ability.
We remained about half an hour, the commodore
making us feel at home, inquiring individually of the
pioneers about their first coming to the country, their
experience here, etc., so that we were soon well ac-
quainted with him.
A few days afterward, upon the first landing of
the commodore, a celebration was held, which was a
grand success. Extensive preparations had been made.
Notice having been sent into the surrounding coun-
try, the people came to town in great numbers.
COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON. 4OI
Colonel Wm. H. Russell made a speech, welcom-
ing the commodore, as he landed from his barge, which
came close to shore (the tide being high) at about
where Clay street is now, between Montgomery and
Sansome. Russell spoke in bombastic, spread-eagle
style, saying, " I meet and welcome you on the shore"
— giving much emphasis to the consonants.
A procession was formed, which marched from
the corner of Sacramento and Montgomery streets to
Washington street, up Washington to Kearney, to Clay,
to Dupont, along Dupont to Washington, thence down
the hill to Montgomery again. These streets, with the
exception of Kearney, had been named by Bartlett.
Some blocks were enclosed by fences — the three
bounded by Montgomery and Kearney streets, east
and west, and by Jackson and Sacramento, north and
south — these blocks being identical with those between
these streets to-day ; also a portion of the block be-
tween Sacramento and California streets, the southeast
corner of that block being separately enclosed (a 50-
vara lot by itself), parties owning in that block having
built cross-fences. On reaching Montgomery street,
those who had formed the procession gathered about a
platform which had been erected near where Clay now
intersects Montgomery street. The commodore was
invited to make a speech, which he did in the most en-
thusiastic manner, and quite at length, and referred
facetiously to Russell's eloquent speech of welcome to
California.
26
402 COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON.
At that time the news had been received of the
revolt of some of the CaHfornians, and the re-capture
by them of points which the Americans had taken pos-
session of; and Stockton, in his address, referred to this,
saying he was there to protect and defend the country,
to fight her battles, if need be, and to establish and
maintain her interests.
Guerrero, the Sanchez Brothers, Vasquez, and all
the rancheros in the immediate vicinity, had each
sent in a number of horses for the procession — the
choicest from xX'i^xx caponeras, the largest and most hand-
some, numbering one hundred or more. After the
speaking was over, an escort of horsemen rode with the
commodore to the Presidio, which he desired to visit ;
thence across to the Mission Dolores, getting back to
Yerba Buena near sunset, when we dispersed.
We rode very rapidly, Stockton himself being a
fine horseman. On our return the horses were covered
with foam.
The procession was the first that ever took
place in California in a civil celebration. It attracted
larofe numbers of women and children from all the
neighborhood. It was a demonstration of welcome, not
only by Americans proper, but by those of all na-
tionalities who had made this new country their home ;
and (with some exceptions) by the CaHfornians also,
who, although their government was now to be super-
seded by that of strangers, nevertheless accepted the
situation gracefully. On this occasion most of the Cali-
COMMODORE K. I". STOCKTON. 4O3
fornians joined in the celebration, entering into it with
spirit, and contributing to its success. F"or that early
day, it was an imposing display and very creditable to
the people.
The ovation was unexpected by Commodore
Stockton, and much appreciated, since it showed the
good feeling of the masses of the people toward the
American government and for him as its represent-
ative, and that the Californians regarded him as a friend
rather than an enemy.
When the news was received, shortly after the
"Congress" arrived, that the Californians at Los An-
geles, Santa Barbara and other points in the south had
revolted, and replaced the Mexican flag, Stockton dis-
patched orders to Monterey for Captain Mervine to
proceed with the " Savannah " to San Pedro, to protect
American interests at Los Angeles. Mervine, on
reaching San Pedro, landed his marines and most of
his crew, with some artillery. Taking command, he
moved towards Los Angfeles. He had some animals with
which to transport his guns. To prepare for anticipated
conflicts with the Californians, it was the custom for
the commanders and officers of the government vessels,
while lying at the different ports, to drill the crews for
army service. The officers themselves possessed more
or less military knowledge, but they familiarized them-
selves still further with that branch of the service. In
the various expeditions inland, a portion of the naval
force on the coast was utilized as infantry men, and,
404 COMMODORE R. F. STOCKTON.
occasionally, as cavalry men, according to circumstances.
As Mervine proceeded, the Californians began to sur-
round the little army and disturb it with threatened at-
tacks. When the rancho of Manuel Dominofues was
reached, about half way between the port and Los An-
geles, a battle ensued, lasting several hours, in which
Mervine displayed great daring in leading his men for-
ward, but without avail ; it resulted in the defeat of the
Americans, who retreated to San Pedro, and boarded
their vessel. Several of the sailors and marines were
killed in the engagement.
CHAPTER XLIX.
Commodore Stockton's Fleet —Fremont Joins the Commodore with his Troops —
A Commendation of Captain Montgomery — His Successor a Different Sort
of Man — Melancholy Fate of Captain Montgomery's Two Sons — The " Eu-
phemia " Arrives from Honohdu with a Large and Varied Cargo of Goods —
Rum in Demand — ^A Fitting Suitable for Army and Navy Uses — Lar-
kin Made Prisoner — Mrs. Larkin Despondent in Consequence — Bartlett
and Pickett Arrested — Still a Demand for Rum and Other Liquors — A
Christmas Dinner Eaten in Bunks^Money Plenty — A Man of Self Impor-
tance — An Anecdote Concerning Him — Fremont's Battalion Marches South —
Why the Author was Sent for by Fremont — The General is in Want of Sup-
plies — They are Furnished by the Author.
The news of Mervine 's defeat reaching Commo-
dore Stockton, he sent orders to the captain to remain
at San Pedro, In the meantime he actively organized
a force to proceed south. The intelHgence of this re-
buff caused him to forward operations vigorously, his
aim being to secure a sufficient force to make thorough
work in overcoming the refractory Californians and
establishing the American supremacy.
Small arms of all kinds were very scarce in the
country, and Stockton was desirous of collecting all he
could for his [)roposed expedition. One morning a
midshipman from the "Congress" presented the com-
modore's compliments, and said the Commodore de-
sired me to purchase for him a quantity of small arms,
pistols, rifles, etc. I sent out several of my clerks to
the little shops, bar-rooms, and all the places in Verba
Buena where it seemed probable any arms could be
406 COLONEL JOHN C. FREMONT.
found, and collected a considerable number, many of
which were obtained from the Mormons, who had re-
cently arrived. The arms were turned over to Commo-
dore Stockton, who paid for them, and also thanked
me for the service.
About the latter part of October, 1846, the commo-
dore sailed with the "Congress" for San Diego. The
" Portsmouth," Captain Montgomery, was ordered to
proceed there also, and left some time subsequent.
These vessels, on reaching that point, were joined by
the "Savannah," Captain Mervine, the " Cyane," Cap-
tain Dupont, and the sloop of war " Dale," The sloop
of war "Warren," Captain Hull, remained at Yerba
Buena.
Fremont's battalion embarked at Yerba Buena on
the "Cyane," intending to land at San Pedro, but when
out at sea a few days the vessel was spoken by the
" Vandalia," coming up the coast, and he was informed
that no horses could be procured at San Pedro, where-
upon Fremont's vessel put in at Monterey, and he dis-
embarked his troops. They proceeded by land south-
ward, it being Stockton's design that they should join
Mervine. At Monterey Fremont's force was increased
by immigrants who had recently arrived in the country,
who augmented his number to about 400.
Captain Montgomery was highly regarded by the
people, and became a great favorite with all classes,
both American and foreign, and also with the Cali-
fornians. He was about fifty years of age, with a pleas-
MONTGOMERY IX COMMAND AT VERBA RUENA. 407
ant, intelligent face ; a man of considerable ability,
officer-like in appearance, and in demeanor polite to all ;
kind and conciliatory in his intercourse with the people,
winning their esteem and affection. He was much
liked by his officers, who spoke of him as one of the
best commanders in the service. During the six or
seven months that he remained at Yerba Buena,
he never had the slightest trouble with any one. Cap-
tain Hull, who succeeded him in command of the dis-
trict, on the contrary, was frequently in hot water ; get-
ting into various difficulties; inclined to be over-partic-
ular and fussy. Although a good officer, attending
strictly to his duties, he showed an impatient disposition,
noticing^ trifling affairs and matters ; whereas Mont-
gomery would not have taken notice of them. A
man of small mind, Hull was unpopular with the
people, but at the same time had his friends, among
them Captain Grimes.
Two sons of Captain Montgomery came out in the
" Portsmouth" with him, aged respectively twenty-one
and seventeen years. Toward the latter part of No-
vember, 1846, these two young men were sent by their
father, in one of the'* Portsmouth's" boats, accompanied
by a crew of eight sailors and a boatswain, with a con-
siderable amount of money to pay the troops — to Sut-
ter's Fort, on the Sacramento. They were never heard
of after their departure, and no trace of them or ot the
boat was ever found, nor any clue as to their fate. It
is presumed that the boat capsized off Angel Island,
4o8 A boat's crew lost in the bay.
in crossing the bay, and it and the occupants were swept
out to sea. The winter commenced early that year ;
heavy southeast winds and rains prevailed, and it was
stormy when the boat left. A thorou^^h search was
made and the whole country notified of the loss, but
with no result. The sad disaster was a great blow to
Captain Montgomery, and weighed very heavily upon
him.
When Captain Montgomery and the people of
Yerba Buena became aware that the boat had failed to
reach Sacramento, they at once concluded that some
disaster must have happened. The first impression on
the captain's mind and that of others, was that the
two young men might have been murdered by the
sailors in the boat for the sake of the money ; who had
then seized it and swamped the boat, and gone into the
interior. That idea prevailed for some time, but after
wide information had been given of the disappearance,
and every effort made to get some intelligence, as none
of the sailors were ever seen by anyone on shore, and
they could not have stayed in the country nor have gone
out of it without the fact being known, this belief
gave way to the more plausible supposition that the
boat was swamped and carried out to sea.
About the middle of November my brig arrived
at Yerba Buena from Honolulu with a splendid cargo,
consisting largely of liquors, and a good assortment of
miscellaneous goods well adapted to the market. It
was one of the first cargoes, perhaps the very first, that
SAN FRANCISCO MADE A TORT OF ENTRY. 4O9
paid duties in San Francisco, under the American gov-
ernment.
When the vessel left for Honolulu in August, I
ordered her to come back to Verba Buena, being con-
vinced, as the country had passed into our possession, this
would be a port of entry by the time she got back ;
foreseeing that San Francisco was to be the commercial
mart, and that Monterey would cease to be the head-
quarters for shipping.
The liquor was mostly New England rum, ex-
ported from Boston to the Islands. Having plenty of
cash on hand, I at once paid the duties on the goods,
which were thirty per cent, on all articles of the in-
voice cost, amounting to $5000 or $6000. The law re-
quired the duties to be paid as soon as goods were
entered.
Captain William A. Richardson, of Saucelito, was
appointed the first Collector of the Port by Commo-
dore Stockton, in recog'nition of his services as pilot
while on the " Congress,"
In addition to other useful information given to
the commodore by Richardson, after the revolt of the
Californians had become known, he also explained
to Stockton that the disturbance did not commence
with the wealthier and better class of rancheros, but
with officials and ex-officials who were desirous of re-
maining in power, and that they had stirred up the
floating or irresponsible class, who had little or nothing
to lose, in opposition to the new government.
41 THE SEAT OF WAR.
My New England rum cost in Honolulu $i.oo per
gallon ; the duty of thirty cents made it $1.30. Liquors
at that time had become very scarce, and on the arrival
of the vessel a great demand began for it. I sold it speed-
ily at from $3.00 to $4,00 per gallon ; could hardly land
it fast enough to supply the want. Going a short dis-
tance from my store, I would be hailed by one person
or another, " Got any more of that New England rum ?
I want a cask of it."
Before returning to my store, I would have seven or
eight orders in my head to put down in the order-book.
The whole invoice was disposed of at a splendid profit,
most of it having been delivered from the vessel.
From the first trip of the " Euphemia," business
had been very prosperous. The last success in my
transactions brought me up in wealth, influence and
commercial importance, to a level with Melius &
Howard, whose establishment to that time had been
cpnsidered the leading one.
Soon after the brig's arrival, I commenced prepar-
ing her for a trip south, to be near the seat of war.
Landing some of the goods she recently brought from
Honolulu, I put on board goods from the store, arranging
the cargo especially to supply the wants of the army and
navy, and not with reference to selling to rancheros.
I had tea, coffee, sugar, clothing, boots and shoes, as-
sorted liquors, foreign wines of the best quality, ale
and porter, flour and other articles, which I knew would
be in demand by the squadron and the military forces.
CAPTURES BY INSURGENT CALTFORNIANS. 4II
We left the beginning of December, and proceeded to
Monterey, having on board Mrs. Thomas O, Larkin,
with some of her children.
Larkin, -some time before, had been captured by the
Californians at Salinas, while journeying from Monterey
to Verba Buena. Having dealt with them largely, and
always having treated them kindly, he naturally thought
that the Californians would not molest him, but that he
would be allowed to pass through the lines. He
was mistaken. They thought it important to seize
the former United States official. He was well treated,
although there was one Californian, Joaquin de la Torre,
who was inclined to be ugly, and showed a disposition
to harm Larkin. Whereupon, Don Manuel Castro put
an immediate stop to any such proceedings. Castro
ordered a guard of ten men placed over Larkin for his
protection. This man de la Torre was considered,
among his countrymen, as a person of low instinct.
Mrs. Larkin was much troubled about her husband's
imprisonment, and despondent on the trip to Monterey,
which occupied a day and a night. I did my best to
cheer her. saying, that her husband, having been ac-
quainted with the Californians for so many years, was en-
tirely safe. Nevertheless, she continued dispirited, and
evidently felt an.xious.
About this time, Bartlett, then alcalde, went into
the country for some cattle, and while attending to the
business, he also was arrested and made prisoner by
the Californians. Another occurrence took place, C. E.
412 DISBURSEMENTS BY NAVY PURSERS.
Pickett had uttered some remark offensive to Captain
Hull, and on its coming to his ears, he had Pickett ar-
rested, and ordered him to remain on my premises as
a prisoner of war ; saying to him, that if he went away
from my store he would have him imprisoned on board
the "Warren" in close quarters. Pickett was very in-
dignant, but thought it prudent'to comply.
At Monterey I delivered ten casks of the rum, and
also sold largely of other goods, nearly all the sales be-
ing for cash.
We proceeded thence to Santa Barbara, where I
sold to Noriega, as before stated, and also sold to
others.
On our way there from Monterey, on Christmas
Day, 1846, we were off San Luis Obispo in a tremen-
dous gale of wind from the southeast, with a boister-
ous sea. My excellent cook and steward, who
still remained with me, had prepared a choice dinner,
but the sea prevented our sitting at table, and we were
compelled to partake of the turkey and other viands in
the bunks.
Money circulated freely at the points where the
United States vessels of war visited, as disbursements
were made at all these places, and the contents of the
pursers' strong boxes became much diminished ; those
who had anything to sell reaping the advantage.
The fitting out of the battalion by Commodore
Stockton, before he left for the south, required a large
expenditure on the part of the naval officers. The pur-
FREMONT S BATTALION AT SANTA BARBARA, 4I3
sers could replenish their exchequers, however, by the
issue of their bills drawn upon the government at Wash-
ington, there being plenty of money in the hands of the
merchants.
While I was at Captain Noriega's house in Santa
Barbara, negotiating with him, there came to the house
Major Snyder, Major Reading, and King, the commis-
sary, all of whom I knew. They said, Colonel Fre-
mont desired to see me at his camp, about a mile from
town, I told them I would call on the colonel as soon
as I had finished my business with Captain Noriega.
They replied that the colonel wished me to go without
delay. Whereupon, I complied (it being war time)
somewhat against my will. I surmised the colonel
wished to obtain supplies, and while I wanted to
assist the government, and to do everything I could to-
ward making the men under P remont comfortable, at
the same time I did not care to become his creditor.
My companions to the camp gave an account of
the condition of the men composing the battalion, say-
ing, that their necessities were very great, and that they
were in next to a starvino condition, being without
flour, sugar, tea or coffee ; beef supplies being all they
could procure ; and that many of them were without
shoes or hats. On reaching headquarters, I noticed
that many of the m(Mi were ragged and dilapidated.
This battalion had been collected by Stockton be-
fore he left Yerba Buena. He caused it to be widely
known that a battalion would be formed, and called for
414 ONE OF THE FOUR HUNDRED. ^^M
volunteers, and sent officers into the country in every
direction to obtain recruits ; and about four hundred
were collected at Verba Buena, consisting mainly of
Americans, with a few English, Irish, Scotch, German,
and of other nationalities. Some of them were rather
rough, but many among them were intelligent men —
Bryant, afterward alcalde of San Francisco, also Wil-
liam H. Russell, a big man from Kentucky, who came
to Verba Buena in 1846 across the plains. He was
good-natured, but self-esteem was a great weakness in
his composition. Sometimes this vanity was carried to
a ridiculous extent in the telling of yarns. His friends
laughed at his assumption of superiority, and made
jokes at his expense. Often when they were ridiculing
him with fictitious praises of his attainments, and as-
sumed a deference to his authority, he thought they
were in earnest and that they were rendering tribute to
his importance. He therefore never took offence at
anything they said. I knew him very well ; he was
generally liked, and had no enemies.
The following anecdote in regard to him was fre-
quently told : In coming to California overland, while
camping at night, the owls were sometimes heard in the
distance, calling out in their peculiar, deep tones, sound-
ing not unlike the human voice. One evening after
the colonel's party had camped, he was perambulating
outside, and, hearing the owls, fancied they were ad-
dressing him, with, " Who comes there ? " He promptly
responded in sonorous tones, " Colonel William H.Rus-
A PERILOUS MARCH. 415
sell, of Kentucky — a bosom friend of Henry Clay."
This little performance was afterward a source of ban-
tering among his friends.
Fremont was placed in command of the battalion
by Stockton, and he marched with it southward. The
start was made in the winter. The weather being very
severe, many hardships were suffered by the troops
on the march, and when they arrived at Santa Barbara
a considerable number of them were in weak condition.
The arms I had collected for Stockton were put into the
hands of these men, a good many of whom I knew —
probably one hundred to one hundred and fifty out of
the four hundred. Some of them told me that while
crossing the Santa Ynez mountains in the niq^ht, PVe-
mont showed considerable nerve in leading his men, the
road being very steep and a tremendous storm raging.
On reaching Fremont's tent I found him walking to
and fro in front of it. After salutations, he said he had
sent to see what I could do towards furnishing supplies
for his troops, who were greatly in need, beef being
about the only food in camp. I told him I would be
happy to supply the battalion with Hour, tea, coffee,
sugar and clothing. He said that I could see the quar-
termaster and commissary and arrange with them about
the quantities, etc. ; that there was no money in the
camp at that time, but that I would surely be paid ; that
they would doubtless capture Los Angeles within six
weeks, and I could depend on getting my money then,
4l6 ..UPPLIES FURNISHED TO THE BATTALION.
and he pledged his word he would pay for the supplies
V. ithin that time.
Major Snyder was quartermaster and King was the
commissary. After consulting with them as to what
they wanted, and they had given me acknowledgements
of indebtedness amounting to about $6000, the goods
from the vessel were landed next day. Concluding my
business at Santa Barbara, I proceeded to San Diego.
CHAPTER L.
Stockton Becomes Impatient -it Fremont's Delay — Forms a .Military Camp at Old
San Diego — The Military Musicians Entertain the California Ladies at
Dances — The Sailors and Marines are Drilled for Battle— Cicneral Kearney
Arrives near San Diego — Sufferings of Kearney's Men — Kearney's I'liick — It
Proves to be Ill-Advised— Me is Attacked by the Californians and Worsted —
Accomi)lishments of Don Andres I'ico as a Military Ofiicer — A Hazardous
Mission Successfully Accomplished by Lieutenant Beale— Stockton Sends Rein-
forcements to Kearney, who is l)rought in, with his Wounded, to San Diego —
Stockton Prepares for a Battle — A Conflict of Authority— March of the Col-
umn — The Californians Encountered in Force — Attacks and Repulses of the
Enemy —The Killed and Wounded — Account of the Battle.
There was an understanding between Stockton
and Fremont, as part of the former's plan, that Fremont
should approach Los Angeles, and halt at a point not
far from there at a specified time, and send word to
Stockton at San Diego of that fact, when Stockton
would advance from the south, and thus inclose the
Californians between the two forces.
Stockton waited at San Diego for that intelligence
from Fremont, which, however, did not arrive. Hav-
ing become impatient at the long and mysterious de-
lay, Stockton decided to move on Los Angeles without
tarrying further for Fremont.
While waiting, Stockton had not been idle. On
the arrival of the fleet at San Diego, he landed his sail-
ors from the different vessels, and moved up to the
presidio, or old town of San Diego. By invitation of
Bandini, he took possession of a portion of his residence
27
4l8 THE OLD PRESIDIO OF SAN DIEGO.
and made it the military headquarters. His sailors
were encamped at that place, and the whole presidio
was turned into a military camp. The commodore had
also the band from the "Congress " quartered at the
mansion.
The commodore was accustomed to have the band
play during the dinner hour, and to invite the Bandini
family and ladies of San Diego to dine with him and
to listen to the excellent music, which invitations they
were pleased to avail themselves of, and afterwards
spoke of these occasions with enthusiasm. The ladies
also praised the commodore and his officers, and evi-
dently appreciated the courtesy and attention.
Don Bandini had in his dwelling a very large hall,
where he gave dancing parties during the commodore's
stay in San Diego, in which he and his officers and the
best families of the town participated, the band of the
squadron furnishing the music. Bandini himself was a
musician, and was noted as a dancer. He understood
fully how to manage an entertainment of the kind, with
his charming wife. These gatherings were highly en-
joyed by all who were present.
He owned the Guadalupe rancho in Lower Califor-
nia, comprising eleven leagues of land, with 4,000 or
5,000 head of cattle, 2,000 horses, and numerous sheep.
In Los Angeles county he owned the Jurupa rancho,
with 4,000 or 5,000 head of cattle and 2,000 or 3,000
horses. He had another rancho a few leagues below
the boundary line between the United States and Mex-
GEN L KEARNEY AT WARNERS RANCH. 419
ico, called Tecate. He was a well-educated man, and
represented the department of California in the city of
Mexico for some time.
Stockton's sailors were drilled in military tactics at
the presidio of San Diego, and practiced in various
army evolutions as soldiers — infantry, artillery-men and
cavalry — in preparation for the coming campaign. The
commodore wanted to do his work thoroughly, and
make sure of conquering.
The Californians had risen quite generally through
that part of the country. Stockton's preparations were
extensive, and his organization complete and effective.
The necessity was urgent of at once bringing the
whole department into subjection to the new order of
affairs. Meanwhile Santiaguito Arguello, Don Miguel
de Pedrorenaand Hensley were actively recruiting, and
gathering horses, for Stockton's command.
While these preparations were going forward,
news was received of General Kearney's arrival at or
near Warner's rancho, in San Diego county, from New
Mexico, to take the position of commander-in-chief of
the United States forces in California. The informa-
tion was brought by Captain Snook, who has been
mentioned in connection with Commodore Jones' tak-
ing possession of Monterey, in 1842. He had given
up sea voyaging and bought a rancho in San Diego
county in the vicinity of San Pasqual. On getting this
intelligence. Lieutenant Beale was sent out by the com-
modore to meet Kearnev and oruide him to San Dieofo.
420
LIEUTENANT BEALE.
On reaching- San Pasqual, at which place Kearney
had then arrived, Beale found that the general had
from 1 20 to 130 men with him, all suffering severely
from cold and lack of food. The winter was an unusu-
ally severe one, snow and frost prevailing, which was
very seldom known in that latitude, and the men had
experienced many hardships on the way from New
Mexico to this point. They had no horses, only mules.
Lieutenant Beale informed General Kearney that he
had been sent by the commodore as a guide, and that
it would be advisable to avoid meeting Don Andres
Pico and his force of cavalry, consisting of about 90
men, who were then in the vicinity of San Diego, hav-
ing been dispatched from the main body of Californians
near Los Angeles for the purpose of watching Stock-
ton's movements and preparations, and communicating
information of the same to headquarters. Commodore
Stockton, knowing of Pico's presence in the neighbor-
hood, and that he had a well-mounted force, in fine
condition, thought it best for Kearney's troops not to
meet them, probably surmising that the latter were not
in very good fighting condition, after their long march
during the cold weather ; or, probably, he had been in-
formed of this by Captain Snook. Upon Lieutenant
Beale's communicating Commodore Stockton's views to
Kearney, the latter promptly responded, "No, sir; I
will go and fight them," and declined to act upon the
suggestion of the commodore.
THE BATTLE OF SAN PASQUAL. 42 1
Beale had observed the starved appearance of the
men and their bad circumstances generally. He inti-
mated to Kearney that as they were worn out with their
recent march and had not found time to recruit, they
were hardly in a fit condition to meet the Californians,
who were numerous, as well as brave, and not to be de-
spised as enemies. He also represented that the
mules would be no match for the horses in a battle, even
if in the best condition. Kearney declined to be influ-
enced by the argument, being determined to have a
fight. He was saved the necessity of moving to meet
the Californians, however, for the latter having learned
of Kearney's force at San Pasqual, shortly appeared
there, and, led by Don Andres Pico, made an attack
about the 6th of December.
When the Californians observed the appearance of
Kearney's men, and how they were mounted, they re-
marked to each other, ''Aqiii bamos hacer matanzar
(" Here we are going to have a slaughter.") They were
mounted on fresh horses, and were armed with sharp-
pointed lances and with pistols, in the use of which weap-
ons they were very expert. A furious charge was made
upon Kearney's force, whereupon all the mules ran away
as fast as their legs would convey them, pursued by the
Californians. who used their lances with great effect, kill-
ing about twenty-five of Kearney's men and wounding
a large number of the remainder (nearly all of them in
the back, including General Kearney), who were all
in the predicament of being unable to control the half-
422 DON ANDRES PICO.
Starved mules which they rode at the time of the stam-
pede. The general, however, managed to rally his men
and the mules, and, taking a position, held it against the
attacking forces, who were not able to dislodge him. The
Californians withdrawing from the immediate scene of
action, Kearney buried his dead, while expecting that at
any moment the enemy would renew the fight.
In this conflict Beale was slightly wounded in the
head. At his suggestion Kearney moved his force to
the top of Escondido mountain, which lay in the direc-
tion of San Diego, marching in solid form, so as to be
able the better to resist any attack that might be made,
the mountain offering advantages for defence which
could not be procured below. While there encamped
they were surrounded and besieged by Pico and his
troops, who made another attack, but without success.
In the battle just described, Don Andres Pico, who
was brave and honorable, displayed so much courage
and coolness as to excite the admiration of the Ameri-
cans, He never did an act beneath the dignity of an
officer or contrary to the rules of war, and was humane
and generous. If he saw one of the enemy wounded,
he instantly called upon his men to spare the life of the
wounded soldier. Kind and hospitable, Pico was held
in great esteem by the Americans who knew him.
While Kearney was thus besieged, Lieutenant Beale
volunteered to make his way through the enemy's lines
and communicate to Stockton the intelligence of the
general's position and circumstances. It was an act of
STOCKTONS CAMPAIGN. 423
great daring ; but by traveling in the night only, and
part of the time crawling on his hands and knees, to
avoid discovery, he finally reached San Diego, nearly
dead from exhaustion, his hands and limbs badly scored.
When he came into San Diego he was little more
than a skeleton ; his friends hardly knew him. He gave
an account of what had transpired and of the condition
of Kearney's force. As soon as his mind was relieved
of the message he became utterly prostrated from the
sufferings he had undergone, and shortly after was delir-
ious. It was some time before he recovered. Stockton
and the other officers of the squadron showed him every
attention.
A force of two hundred men, with some light ar-
tillery, was immediately sent to rescue Kearney's troops
and escort them to San Diego, also conveyances for the
wounded, with full supplies of provisions. The Cali-
fornians moved back as this force approached, not ven-
turing further demonstrations. The troops, with the
wounded, were brought to San Diego.
Stockton continued his preparations on an exten-
sive scale for the conflict. He delayed a further move-
ment in order to allow the recovery of the wounded
men. Kearney demanded of Stockton the position of
commander-in-chief of the territory, by virtue ot an
appointment to that place by the President. The navy
officer declined to yield the command, claiming that the
men whom he had organized and drilled for the con-
flict belonged to the United States ships which he
424 THE ARMY READY TO MARCH.
commanded ; that he had spent his time and labor in
making preparations ; had transformed his sailors into
soldiers ; had exercised and trained them in military
tactics ; that he had gathered horses and men, had or-
ganized a force of cavalry, and had made all his ar-
rangements to conquer the Californians and show them
that the country was now a part of the United States.
He claimed the honor of accomplishing this, and de-
clined to be superseded bv another.
There was more or less controversy about their re-
spective ranks, which was not definitely settled.
Meanwhile, Stockton continued his preparations.
Kearney having made his demand and Stockton hav-
ing refused to comply, the former could do nothing but
quietly submit. When the expedition was ready to
start, he volunteered to join with such of his dragoons
as were able to do service, about eighty in all, which
offer was accepted by Stockton, Kearney simply com-
manding his own men under the commodore's orders.
When they moved forward, about the first of January,
1847, Stockton had between seven hundred and eight
hundred men, including Kearney's force.
During the march, and afterward, the natives in
Stockton's army were mounted as cavalrymen, and
were assigned to picket duty, a very responsible service
— which showed the confidence the commodore placed
in them. They were specially adapted for this duty,
being genuine horsemen, and knowing the country
thoroughly. They were, moreover, faithful and trust-
worthy.
THE BATTLE OF SAX GABRIEL. 425
Arrivino^ at the river San Gabriel, the Californians
were found in force on the opposite side, in an advan-
tageous position. The river was swollen from previous
heavy rains. On the eig"hth, the two armies commenced
an artillery fight, in which Stockton exhibited great
skill, coolness and bravery. During the engagement
one of the artillery-men was killed by a shot from the
enemy, while firing his gun. Stockton, who was near
bv, immediatelv took charofe of the ofun, and so accurate
was his aim that he did marked execution in the
enemy's ranks. In the navy the commodore was
known as a practical artillerist, and afterward was the
inventor of a powerful piece of ordnance. Under
cover of the artillery fire, his force crossed the river,
the movement being accomplished with considerable
difficulty, and was followed by the artillery.
The fighting continued on that day and the next,
the Californians making several charges upon the
United States troops. The commodore had formed
his army into a hollow square, which the enemy at-
tacked on e\ery side simultaneously ; but they were
unable to penetrate it, and were repulsed each time.
The Californians were all mounted, there being no in-
fantry in their army. They relied upon their horse-
manship and their lances to break Stockton's lines; but
he knew their mode of attack and was prepared for it.
The line of troops in front kneeled down and received
the charge of the cavalry at the point of the bayonet,
those in the rear thus being enabled to fire over the
heads of those in the front rank.
426 TACTICS OF THE CALIFORNIANS.
Twenty-five or thirty of the CaHfornians were
killed, and a great many wounded; while Stockton's
loss did not exceed ten killed, with a few wounded.
Doubtless the actual number of the CaHfornians
killed will never be known, they having concealed their
loss, not being willing to make a statement in regard
thereto. Many more of the CaHfornians would have
been killed and wounded during their charges upon
Stockton's force, but for skillful maneuvers in horse-
manship which they employed in making their attacks.
Forcing their horses forward, in approaching Stock-
ton's line, every horseman in their ranks threw himself
over to one side, bending far down, so that no part of his
body, except one leg, appeared above the saddle. When
the columns met, and the horseman was required to use
the lance or do other effective service, he remained but
a few seconds in the saddle ; and in the retreat he threw
himself over along the side of the horse, and rode rap-
idly in that position, guiding the steed skillfully at the
same time. By these tactics, the cavalry of the enemy
avoided presenting themselves as conspicuous marks for
the riflemen.
Stockton had three or four hundred head of , beef
cattle which he had brought from San Diego, or had
gathered along the route, for the use of his army. In
forming the square to receive the attacks of the CaH-
fornians, the cattle were placed within the lines, and also
his baggage-wagons and supplies.
TACTICS OF THE CALIFORNIANS. 427
The enemy made desperate attempts to break
through at the point where the cattle were stationed, but
without success.
It might seem difficult to keep a large body of
rodeo cattle within the military square during the prog-
ress of a battle. But the animals were placed in charge
of the mounted Californians of Stockton's force. They
were rancheros and were thoroughly familiar with the
handling of stock ; they made it their duty to see that
the cattle were kept intact on this occasion. The crea-
tures gradually became accustomed to the movements
of the army and were held in place even during the
discharge of cannon and small arms. Stockton's in-
fantry and artillery repulsed the attacks, and he man-
aged the animals so well that no part of his square was
broken on any side. The Californians finding that our
army was too powerful for them, finally withdrew from
the field.
CHAPTER LI.
Retreat of the Californians — They are Intercepted by and Capitulate to Fremont
—The Conquerors march into Los Angeles to the Music of the "Star
Spangled Banner" — Dispersion of the California Troops — Fremont appointed
Governor of California — He Arrives at Los Angeles — Exchange of Courtesies
on Vessels at Sea — ^The Author takes Advantage of the Situation by Prosecut-
ing Trade— American Soldiers unused to the Syaax Thrust — Good Angels to
the Wounded Soldiers— A Young Man who Wounded Kearney Extolled for
his Bravery— The First California Sugar-cane— A Generous Tender of Riding
Animals Accepted — The Tender Repeated by the Accomplished Widow of
Don Tomas Yorba — The Lady's t'oresight in Preparing a Way with Horses
for Crossing a Swollen Stream — The Author makes a Purchase of Wine from
the Fair Widow — The Author calls at Fremont's Headquarters for a Settle-
ment of his Claim — A Delay Asked for and Granted — Again put off— The
Great Man cannot be Seen ; but at last Condescends to Transact the Author's
Business — The Papers he Signed are Transferred — Stockton a Different Sort
of a Man — His Promptitude in Securing the Payment of Creditors" Claims
against the Government— His Ripe Judgment as a Military Commander.
The Californians retreated toward the San Fer-
nando Mission, near which point they were confronted
by Fremont's battaHon, which had advanced that far on
the way south ; and they capitulated to him. This was
the whole of Fremont's participation in the conflict.
Meanwhile Stockton marched his army into Los
Angeles, to the tune of "The Star Spangled Banner."
Fremont also soon arrived.
The Californians findinQ: themselves beaten, and
seeing the number and determination of their oppo-
nents and their superiority in arms, in military organi-
zation and in generalship, quietly yielded, dispersed,
and went about their business, refusino- to contend fur-
ther against the United States.
THE KNEMY CAPITULATE TO FREMONT. 429
The city of Los Angeles, after our army entered
and took possession, was orderly and not at all disturbed ;
the citizens moved to and fro, in the usual way, as if her
angelic sanctity was not in the least ruffled.
Stockton appointed Fremont governor of Califor-
nia. He, perhaps, was influenced to this course by
Kearney's previous abrupt demand for the position of
commander-in-chief. Fremont took the office, and
Stockton returned to San Diego, with his army, includ-
ing Kearney's force. He embarked his men on the ves-
sels and took command of the squadron again.
I arrived at San Diego about the time of the bat-
tle, with the " Euphemia," in company with the bark
" Tasso." The two vessels left Santa Barbara at the
same tinie, a heav^y gale having then abated. A light
easterly wind prevailed, which required us to beat down
all the way. We sailed so near to each other that we
carried on a conversation from one vessel to the other.
The "Tasso " lowered a boat, and Captain Libbey and
supercargo Teschemacher came aboard our vessel, stay-
ing for an hour or two and partaking of refreshments.
On reaching San Diego we waited for war news.
Meanwhile, I sold to the different vessels of the
squadron $3000 to $4000 worth of provisions, its own
stores having been largely used for the supply of the
troops ; received purser's bills in payment ; also sold to
Bandini and to my old friend Captain F"itch, who were
merchants there.
430 CALIFORNIANS BRAVE FIGHTERS.
The dragoons of Kearney's force who were wounded
in the battle of San Pasqual, about twenty or thirty in
number, when brought into San Diego had been dis-
tributed amonof the different famiUes. Dr. R. F. Max-
well, then surgeon of the " Cyane," was in attendance
on the men. He took me and Teschemacher with him
to visit them. They all had the utmost horror of Cal-
ifornians. The attack upon them had been sudden and
vigorous, and they had been pursued by the Califor-
nians relentlessly, and grievously wounded, the lances
having been wielded with such skill and precision that
many of the dragoons were killed.
This was an entirely new experience to the Amer-
ican soldiers. As there had been no opportunity offered
to face their enemy in a fair fight, a terrible impression
had been made upon their minds of the warlike char-
acter of the native Californians.
One young man in particular, of about twenty,
with an intelligent face, suddenly became delirious while
we were visiting him, and called out in terror, thinking
the Californians were upon him. The San Diego ladies
were very kind to these men, visiting and nursing them,
preparing little delicacies for them and doing all in their
power to make them comfortable.
After the troops had returned to San Diego from
the battle of San Gabriel, Kearney made inquiries for a
young Californian of the opposing force who had distin-
guished himself in the battle of San Pasqual by his cour-
age and valor. He had singled out General Kearney
MAGNANIMOUS ENEMIES. 43 I
individually and sprung at him as chief of the enemy.
When he had succeeded in wounding- the general, and
the latter had fallen, the young Californian desisted from
the attack and spared his life. After some inquiry,
Kearney succeeded in finding out who he was. Upon
his solicitation the young man called on the general,
who greeted him warmly, and praised him for his bravery
and soldierly behavior.
As soon as we received news of Stockton's victory
over the Californians, Teschemacher and myself started
by land for Los Angeles, ordering our vessels to pro-
ceed to San Pedro. The first night out we slept at the
rancho of Santa Marguerita, in charge of Don Jose
Antonio Pico. He was called Teniente (Lieutenant)
Pico, from his long service in the army. I had known
him in 1841, '42, '43, in Sonoma, in General Vallejo's
a-rmy. This rancho was owned by Governor Pico and
Don Andres Pico, and was one of the most beautiful
places in the country. Here I saw the first sugar-cane
growing in California, around a mound near the house,
in the center of which, at the top, was a natural spring
of water. Some of the stalks were nearly as large
as my arm.
Arriving in the evening, we were received with
great hospitality by Don Antonio and his family ; had
an excellent supper ; and talked and smoked, and sipped
California wine to a late hour, enjoying ourselves
heartily.
The next morning I was up early, and, on going
out, saw the sugar-cane. I expressed my surprise to
432 TOMAS YORBAS WIDOW.
Don Antonio, who was already out on the porch, (with
a black silk handkerchief lied over his head, the four
ends meeting at the back of his neck.) On receiving
permission to cut some of the sugar-cane, I feasted on
its sweetness before breakfast.
We got an early start, Don Antonio insisting that
he should send back to San Diego the horses and
vaqueros we had engaged there to take us to Los
Angeles ; furnishing us with true California hospitality
six of his own horses and a vaquero to continue the
journey, three of the horses to go ahead loose, to be
used when those we started with had become tired.
Not wishing to slight his generosity, we accepted them,
and proceeded.
We stopped next at the rancho of Santa Ana,
owned by the beautiful and fascinating widow of Don
Tomas Yorba, who had extensive landed possessions,
and great numbers of cattle and horses. She managed
her rancho with much ability. The lady was one of
my best customers. In June, 1846, I sold her from
$2,000 to $3,000 worth of goods, she having come
to the vessel at San Pedro to buy them. Here we
passed the night. She also insisted upon furnishing us
with fresh horses to Los Angeles, having herself before
we appeared in the morning dispatched ours and the
vaquero back to Teniente Pico.
Returning the vaqueros and horses was frequently
done when guests remained over night. She provided
us with two horses and another vaquero. It had been
I
TOMAS YORBA S WIDOW. 433
raining for some days, and the Santa Ana river was
high.
While we were making our preparations to start,
Doiia Vicenta, her fine hair streaming over her shoulders,
a picture of womanly grace and beauty, gave orders to
her iiiayor-dovio to group four or five nianadas, which
was done. Having the horses together, the vaqueros
drove them into the river, across to the other shore,
and then immediately back to the same place. As they
returned, Doiia Vicenta said : " The ri\er is now pre-
pared for you to cross." The object of the move-
ment of the large number of horses had been to
trample down and harden the soft sediment or river
quicksand at the bottom, so that we could cross on our
horses with greater ease and safety, without risk to
horse or man. When we were all prepared to start, the
band of horses was driven over the river again at the
same place, and we followed immediately in their wake.
This proceeding, which I have frequently seen in
other places, for the same purpose, showed the extreme
kindness of the lady to her guests. While here, we
drank some good California wine, five or six years' old,
manufactured by Tomas Yorba, Dona Vicenta's deceased
husband. They had a large vineyard, and made wine
for their use, and also for sale to others, and I pur-
chased of her several hundred dollars' worth of wine
and aguardiente, to be transported to my vessel at San
Pedro, and resold. There was no higgling about the
price, she simply named it when she said I could have
the articles.
28
434 THE SAN GABRIEL NOT FORDABLE.
The common custom in dealings between the mer-
chants and the Californians, was for the purchaser not
to take occasion to ask the price ; the seller quietly
naming it at once. There was a perfect understanding
between the parties, and confidence was felt on both
sides that no advantage would be taken; the price
stated was at once accepted as the correct one. Mrs.
Yorba was the aunt of Mrs. Gafia, wife of the American
consul at Tepic, Mexico, before mentioned. She is
now living at Anaheim, where her married daughters
also reside.
After crossing the Santa Ana, the next important
stream was the San Gabriel, which we reached toward
the end of the day, having made rather slow progress
in the muddy roads. We found the river very swift,
and, halting at the brink, looked inquiringly towards
each other. Addressing the vaquero by name, I said :
'''Que le parece austed? El rio esta bi^avd' (What
do you think ? The river is mad.) He replied, it was
dangerous but we could manage to cross. I asked
Teschemacher what he thought, and he said he sup-
posed we should have to try. We went in, at the sug-
gestion of the vaquero all three abreast, so that he could
keep us in sight. About a third of the way across, the
vaquero's horse suddenly turned over, and went under
the swift water. He came up again, the vaquero still
clinging fast to him. The animal gave a snort, shook
the water from his ears and went forward to shore.
Teschemacher's horse made a side motion, as if to turn
over, but the rider leaned to the other side, and the
SETTLING WITH COLONEL FREMONT. 435
animal, regaining his balance, swam across. My horse
had no trouble, but took me steadily and safely over.
The horses had to swim most of the way. We got to
Los Angeles about seven or eight o'clock P. M. We
were going to Don Abel Stearns' house ; as we ap-
proached, William G. F"lugge met us and took us to his
apartments, where he prepared some hot punch, which
warmed us, after which Doiia Arcadia Stearns provided
us with an excellent supper. Dry garments and shoes
were given us, and several hours were spent there
talking, enjoying ourselves, and drinking California
wine until we felt in a very happy frame of mind,
though none of us were intoxicated. Mrs. Stearns
provided each of us a room, and we slept very com-
fortably in her excellent beds.
The captains, supercargoes and merchants in the
early days of California were nearly all good drinkers.
They partook freely of California wine and aguardiente,
which, from the excellence and purity, seemed to have
no deleterious effect. I never knew of an instance of
a drunkard among them.
While we were proceeding from San Diego to Los
Angeles, Stockton and his force passed in the opposite
direction, by another road, going to San Diego. On
the second day after reaching Los Angeles I called on
Colonel Fremont, who was then Governor of California.
The first person I saw at headquarters was Colonel
William H. Russell. He had been made Secretary of
State by Fremont, and he gave me a little account of
the movements of the battalion, the capitulation, etc. I
436 SETTLING WITH COLONEL FREMONT.
told him I had called to see Colonel Fremont on busi-
ness, and that I should like to make a settlement of my
claim against him ; that my vessel was at San Pedro,
and I probably should not be at Los Angeles more than
a week. H e answered, in his flourishing style, that the
colonel was extremely busy ; that he had a great many
callers and very important matters to attend to ; and
asked if it would make any difference if he did not pre-
sent the matter to the colonel until the morrow. I told
him that a day's delay would make no difference.
Russell worshiped Fremont as a great hero, carry-
ing his admiration to a ridiculous extent, thinking Fre-
mont appreciated him. I called the next day at head-
quarters, and was again put off by Russell, who told
me that Colonel Fremont was engaged in writing dis-
patches to Washington, and could not by any means
be disturbed. Seizing me by both hands, and shaking
them warmly, he said, with a good deal of fervor, that
he should consider it a personal favor if I would call the
next day, when he would secure the attention of the gov-
ernor to mv business ; upon which the interview ended.
I called every day during the week, and was each
time unable to see Fremont, although Colonel Russell
informed him I had called, the plea being that his great
press of business would not admit of it. I became
convinced that he was trifling and purposely avoided
an interview. On the seventh day I sent to him by
Colonel Russell the quartermaster's and commissary's
receipts for the goods I had delivered, and requested
their approval by Fremont. I was told to call in the
SETTLING WITH COLONEL FREMONT. 437
afternoon, at which time I at last succeeded in getting
the papers, containing Fremont's endorsement as
Governor of California.
Meanwhile, during this week, I was busy in making
sales at Los Angeles and collecting wine and aguar-
diente, of which I purchased considerable quantities,
taking much of it in pay for goods previously delivered ;
also collecting hides, tallow and money. I made large
sales. The country having been at war, the supplies
of the people had become exhausted.
I did not regret having furnished the supplies for
the soldiers, knowing how much they were in need of
them, nor the assistance I had rendered the govern-
ment in so doing; thus indirectly aiding in conquering
the country. Nor did I regret that I was not to re-
ceive my pay when I found it was not forthcoming,
although it had been absolutely promised by Fremont ;
but I considered in view of Col. Fremont's relation to
me as a creditor and of the great accommodation I had
rendered to him at Santa Barbara, when his force was
in distress, and of his promise to settle on reaching Los
Angeles, that I was entitled to courteous treatment. If
he was not prepared to redeem his promise, he could
at least have said so in a fair, square, and manly way.
In January, 1848, my partnership with E. and H.
Grimes was dissolved, and in settlement I turned these
two papers over to them. Several years afterward I
knew that the claim was still unpaid, though I think it
eventually was settled.
43^ A CAPABLE COMMANDER.
Commodore Stockton became U. S. senator and
interested himself personally to see that the indebted-
ness which he had contracted, as agent of the orovern-
ment, for supplies on this coast received attention at
Washington.
I may mention one instance : Don Santiaguito
Arguello, furnished large quantities of army supplies
to Stockton from his extensive rancho eleven or twelve
miles from San Diego — several hundred head of cattle
and horses, and for which he had a claim against the
government amounting to $14,000. The claim was
sent to Washington by Major Lee, commissary-general
for the Pacific coast. Stockton's attention being called
to it, he exerted himself effectually in itssetdement, and
in a few months Aroruello received his monev.
I regard Stockton as the real conqueror of Califor-
nia and as a man of very large mind, great judgment,
and extraordinary foresight evinced in his whole career.
His visit to Los Angeles shortly after coming to the coast
and his friendly overtures to the Californians at that
place, and afterward at Verba Buena, showed his wis-
dom and discernment. When the news of the revolt of
the Californians was received, he showed his good judg-
ment in the preparations he made, first here in the
north, and afterward in San Dietjo, looking months ahead
for the conflict, and arranging to meet it systematically
and thoroughly. Instead of hastily going forward with
a small and unorganized and imperfectly drilled army,
he took pains to instruct his officers and men for their
A CAPABLE COMMANDER. 439
new work ; and at the same time, no doubt, improved
and qualified himself in army tactics. The gathering
of recruits, horses and supplies from the country and
equipping, drilling and organizing his troops for the cam-
paign, required laborious effort.
In striking contrast to this mode of proceeding
was Kearney's hasty and ill-judged action in fighting
Pico's force, with half-starved and fatigued men mounted
on mules, which was precipitated by Kearney, against
the combined judgment of Stockton and Beale.
We have another example of Stockton's foresight
and good sense, in sending out a man to warn Kearney
of there being in the vicinity a more powerful enemy
(Pico), and to proceed to San Diego without meeting
that foe. Pi ad any less capable man than Stockton
been commander-in-chief at that period on the Pacific
coast, the insurrection of the Californians would have
been a serious affair. The conflict might have been
prolonged with further effusion of blood.
CHAPTER LII.
A Harsh Sentence Relented — A Mark of Credit to Fremont — A Reflection by
Native Californians upon the Mexicans and Mexican Government — The
Author Continues Trade by V'essel — The Passengers on Board^ — Head-Winds
and a Slow Voyage induce Owner and Passengers to make a Land Journey to
their Point of Destination — Their Vessel beats them to Monterey — A Profit-
able Trade Venture — The Author Sails for Honolulu — Money on Board for
Grimes — None for Consul Abell — The Money for Grimes just in Time —
Plonolulu gets the Benefit of a Large Marine Commerce from the Pacific
Coast.
When Fremont's battalion was passing down to
Los Angeles from the north, near San Luis Obispo,
Totoy Pico was arrested as a spy and charged with the
design of conveying to the Californians information of
Fremont's approach. Brought before Fremont and
tried by court-martial, he was found guilty and con-
demned to be shot. The arrest took place near the
man's own home at San Luis Obispo, and it was deemed
improbable that he had designed acting as charged, es-
pecially in view of the fact that the Californians were
well-posted as to Fremont's movements during the
whole progress of the march. If the prisoner had been
found any considerable distance from his home, between
Yerba Buena and Los Angeles, the case would have
looked more suspicious against him. He declared his
innocence. As the time for the execution approached,
Pico's wife and family were much alarmed. Mrs. Pico,
accompanied by her children, appeared before Fremont
to intercede for her husband. She knelt before him
CREDITABLE PATRIOTISM. 44 1
and pleaded eloquently for her husband. The com-
mander relented, and gave Pico a pardon. They after-
ward became friends, and the latter went with Fremont
in his march south.
In my visits to the camp at Santa Barbara, I saw
Totoy Pico two or three times and conversed with him.
He spoke of Fremont's great kindness to him, after he
had been pardoned, and of the attentions that had been
shown him.
In conversation with many of the prominent Cali-
fornians, at various times, after their defeat in the battle
of San Gabriel, they expressed themselves freely against
the Mexicans, saying that they considered the Mexican
government had appeared badly in the war between
that country and the United States ; that the fact that
General Scott had been allowed to march from Vera
Cruz to the City of Mexico, with hardly a show of re-
sistance by the Mexicans, seemed to indicate there
was a concerted plan between Santa Ana and the
United States government to permit the success of the
latter's army in Mexico. They seemed to think
also that Mexico was very delinquent in its duty to
California, in not sending an army to resist the capture
of the territory by the United States ; and remarked
that the Mexican government had sold them like so
many sheep. They said their own effort against the
United States forces was in part to show that they were
not Mexicans and cowards, but had some patriotism
and love for their country. Although they could not
442 A DELAY CAUSED BY HEAD-WINDS.
hope to successfully resist so powerful a nation as the
United States, yet they had proved their devotion to
California in not quietly submitting to be conquered,
without a sign of resistance.
On leaving San Pedro, I sailed for Santa Barbara,
with Louis McLane and Josiah Belden on board as
passengers ; also Jose Ramon Estudillo, who had been
impressed into the service by the Californians in Contra
Costa (San Leandro) and taken south by them. He
was in the fight of San Gabriel. McLane was a passed
midshipman in the navy aboard one of the United
States vessels, and held a position on shore as captain,
(with other officers) for the protection of the flag, and
had accompanied Fremont's battalion. McLane was
permitted to return and take his old position at Mon-
terey. He came on my vessel for this purpose. We
touched at Santa Barbara, and were four days beating
up from there to Point Concepcion, against a strong
head-wind. Seeino- that we had before us a tedious
voyage, the captain, at my request, anchored under the
lee of the Point, and Belden, McLane and myself left
our vessel and went ashore, determined to come up to
Monterey by land. At the Cojo rancho, Don Anasta-
cio Carillo's mayor-domo brought us a caponera, and we
took three good horses and a vaquero and proceeded
inland to the Rancho Nipoma, owned by William G.
Dana. When we arrived, we found there H. F. Tes-
chemacher and Dr. Nicolas A. Den, the former havinor
left his vessel at Santa Barbara to come up by land.
OVERLAND NORTH FROM SANTA BARBARA. 443
The next morning I ordered the vaquero back to the
Rancho Cojo, with Carillo's horses and a note to the
owner, explaining the liberty I had taken in borrowing
them.
Belden, McLane and myself each bought two
horses from Dana to continue our journey. Den and
Teschemacher had brought their horses from Santa
Barbara, with a vaquero, and a tent on a pack animal.
We joined in one party, all sleeping in the tent, camp-
ing out and cooking our own food. We spent several
days on the journey. The weather was delightful, cool
and clear, the country fresh and beautiful, with grass
and wild flowers growing luxuriantly all the way from
the Cojo to Monterey; and we enjoyed ourselves ex-
ceedingly.
On reaching Monterey, the "Tasso" and the
"Euphemia" were already there, they having got a
favorable slant of wind after leaving Point Concepcion.
I continued my trip by land to Yerba Buena, ordering
my vessel to proceed there, and, on arriving, found that
my friend and employee, R. M. Sherman, had done a
good business during my absence. When the " Eu-
phemia " came into the bay {March, 1847,) I had on
board over $20,000 in coin (Mexican dollars and doub-
loons) and purser's bills, the result of sales during the trip
south and back, besides what was trusted out.
I also had aboard a large quantity of California
wine and aguardiente, which were just as good as gold,
and better, because there was a sure sale for both at a
profit. Some of the original cargo also remained.
444 A SMOOTH SEA.
I was greeted by Captain Grimes, who reported
that my mother was very ill at Honolulu. I therefore
made preparations to go hence. On giving Captain
Grimes an account of my business trip down south and
the result, he was greatly pleased. His face broke
out in a smile all over, and he said: "William, you
have done wonders."
On the 31st of March, sailed for Honolulu, on
the " Euphemia" with Pickett aboard, he having re-
quested me to take him down to visit the Islands. I
had about $30,000, including what Sherman had col-
lected during my absence south, a portion of which was
in Mexican dollars, twenty bags of $1,000 each. We
left in a south-east storm, but after a day or two it abated,
and with gentle trade winds the ocean was as smooth
as glass. A Whitehall boat could have made the pas-
sage. On arriving at Honolulu after a voyage of
twenty days, I was met by the pilot in the outer har-
bor, Stephen Reynolds, a Boston merchant at Hono-
lulu, who had been previously United States vice-con-
sul there. He had lived at Honolulu many years, and
had become wealthy, importing goods from Boston ; and
yet he acted as pilot. The pilotage was very lucrative.
He immediately gave the sailors their orders, and we
were shortly anchored in the harbor, I was met on the
wharf by Alexander G. Abell. He was then United
States consul at Honolulu, and was of the firm of
Abell, McClure & Cheevers, engaged in the trade be-
tween the Islands and California. The two latter had
ARRIVAL AT HONOLULU. 445
taken a large cargo In the brig " Francisca" to the
Pacific Coast, leaving Mr. Abell to manage the business at
Honolulu. He asked if I had any remittance for him,
and when informed I had not, he seemed disappointed ;
he could not imagine what his partners were doing in
California, not to have disposed of the goods, or a part
of them, and remitted the proceeds. I kn^w that they
had mismanaged the business and were too fond of
drinking, and enjoying themselves, to make a success
of it.
Mr. Reynolds, who was a special friend of my
mother, accompanied me to her house, and on the way
asked me what amount I had brought for Grimes ; on
my replying, about $30,000, he stared in amazement
and could hardly believe it. He said he was overjoyed,
for the house had got into trouble financially ; this
amount would save them from a great disaster ; and it
did, when I turned the money over to the concern.
The presence of so large a fleet of vessels on the
coast, as well as the increasing immigration to Califor-
nia, had stimulated business, and money was plenty at
Honolulu. The Sandwich Islands, then being our
nearest neighbors, were greatly benefited.
I found my mother very ill. Her death occurred
four days after my arrival.
I reached Honolulu on Sunday. While I was at
my mother's house, with Reynolds, I was sent for by
Hiram Grimes from his residence, the stores and other
business places being all closed on that day.
44^ HONOLULU DESCRIBED.
Honolulu seemed very much like a thriving New
England town, both in the business and residence por-
tions. A person could easily imagine himself in one of
the suburbs of Boston, in passing through its streets.
I spent most of my time with my mother until her
death. After the funeral, I commenced loading my
vessel for the return voyage.
CHAPTER LIII.
Celebrating the Centennial of the Foundation of the Mission Dolores and of
the City of San Francisco — Rev. Father Junipero Serra, President of the
Franciscan Missionaries, in Charge of the Missions in California — The Port
of San Francisco Discovered, A. D. 1769 — The Mission Founded October
8, 1776 ; the Presidio Three Weeks Before — The Country Never before Inhab.
ited by Civilized Man — ^Indians Buried in the Darkness of Paganism — The
Code of Recopilacion de Leges de Indias established by the Spanish Sovereigns
to Protect the Rights of Indians — If in Rebellion, the Indians to be Reduced
with Mildness and Peace, Without War, Theft or Deaths — A Detailed Nar-
ration of the Primitive History of the Presidio, Mission and Pueblo of San
Francisco.
The Centennial Celebration on Sunday, October
8, 1876, of the founding of the Presidio of San Fran-
cisco and the Mission Dolores, may be truly described
as a memorable event in the annals of the commercial
metropolis of California.
I am indebted to Mr. P. J. Thomas, the compiler
and publisher of a valuable work upon the founding of
the Mission of San Francisco de Asis, and historical
reminiscences of other Missions of California, and which
includes an account of the procession and the relig-
ious and civic exercises held at the celebration of the
foundation of the above Mission in its hundredth
year — for the privilege of incorporating in this volume
two very interesting addresses delivered on that occa-
sion.
448 A MEMORABLE CELEBRATION.
At the Mechanics' Pavilion at least eleven thou-
sand persons were assembled. Among other prominent
citizens, His Grace, the Most Reverend Archbishop
Alemany ; the Governor of the State ; the Mayor of
City and County of San Francisco ; Hon. John W.
Dwinelle and General M. G. Vallejo, orators of the
day ; the Collector of the Port of San Francisco ; Con-
suls from foreign countries ; Col. Peter Donahue and
Gustave Touchard, were present.
The Spanish, Mexican and South American ele-
ments were largely represented in the immense throng,
which was graced by the presence of many members of
the clergy of the Province.
At the Old Mission grounds on the corner of Six-
teenth and Dolores streets, the celebration was inaug-
urated with the solemnity befitting so important an an-
niversary. The exercises commenced with a Grand
Pontifical Mass at 10 A. M. Beneath a tasteful o-othic
arch, adorned with ferns, ivy, clematis, and wreaths of
flowers and tropical plants, the temporary altar was
erected. The choir excellently rendered Beethoven's
Mass in C, as well as the Offertory Ave Maria, by
Loretz.
At the conclusion of the Gospel, His Grace the
Most Rev. Archbishop advanced from the altar to the
front of the platform occupied by the choir, and stated
that instead of the sermon promised by the Right Rev.
Bishop Grace, of St. Paul, Minnesota, which would not
be delivered, owing to the unexpected illness of that
THE HUNDREDTH ANNIVERSARY. 449
revered prelate, he would himselfaddress those present.
The Archbishop then delivered the following discourse :
THE archbishop's ADDRESS.
Dearly Beloved : This is a day of joy and exultation, both to
the citizens of San Francisco, and, in a certain sense, to those of the
whole State of California, especially to the children of Christian light,
for to-day we celebrate the Centennial of the Foundation of this Mis-
sion, and of this vast metropolis of the Pacific Coast.
If our illustrious nation has justly been celebrating with rejoicin7y I^on Jose Martinez started from the
mansion at Pinole to go out for a little sport at bear
hunting, with several companions. This rancho is sit-
uated in a deep valley, with high hills on either side.
When they had got some little distance from the house
they fancied they heard a bear not far away, and Don
Jose rode off ahead of the others, up the side of the hill,
and suddenly came close upon a bear, himself unpre-
pared for an attack. The bear made a dash at him,
aVid with his claw raked him down the leg, ripping his
trousers, tearing off the shoe and stocking and just
giving the foot a scratch. As the horse pressed for-
ward, the Don held on to his saddle with all his might,
to save himself from being torn to pieces. The
strength of the bear's stroke having been spent upon
the clothing, which gave way, the rider passed on and
escaped. His companions soon coming up, the crea-
ture was speedily lassoed and killed.
Dona Encarnacion, the widow of one of the Peraltas,
the present wife of Don Manuel Ayala, resides at Tem-
escal, where she has a beautiful home, one of the hand-
somest in the country. In 1840, while she was Mrs.
Peralta, she lived a quarter of a mile from her present
residence in a north-easterly direction. About where
her home is now she had a large vegetable garden, or
milpa, and cultivated watermelons. One day in the
month of August, she walked down from her house at
midday to look at her garden and see how her melons
and vegetables were getting on. As she was about to
5O0 COMBAT WITH A BEAR.
return to the house, just as she had left the garden, she
saw a short distance off five or six horsemen, among
them her husband, gathered about an immense bear
which they had just lassoed. It was the matanza sea-
son, and the animal had been attracted to the spot by
the smell of the meat. He had come down from the
mountains to feast upon the carcasses of the slaught-
ered cattle, but, contrary to the usual custom, had
boldly approached in the broad light of day instead of
at night. He was a monster, the largest that had ever
been seen there, strong and savage, having broken one
of the reatas. It required the strength of all the men
to manao^e and hold him. Dona Encarnacion was a
good deal startled at the sight of the struggling beast.
Her husband made a motion to her to go back to the
milpa, which she did, staying until the bear was fully
secured and subdued. This was in the open country,
with no concealment of woods or shrubbery.
CHAPTER LVI.
A Voyage projected by the Author to Callao, Peru, with a Valuable Cargo— How it
was Frustrated — Supercargo Sherman makes a Judicious Investment in Goods
at Honolulu, and Returns with them in the "Nick cf Time"— The
"Euphemia" Sold to the City of San Francisco— The Vessel was Noted
for Profitable Ventures and Good Luck— Major Reading, the Author and
Others Embark in a Flour Speculation to Oregon— The Vessel Employed
Reaches her Point of Destination ; Secures a Cargo, but is Frozen on the
Columbia River— The Brooklyn Arrives from New York in 1846, with 230
Passengers — Sam Brannan was on Board, at the Head of an Organized Mili-
tary Company— It was their Intention to Hoist the American Flag, but they
were a Little too Late — Many of the New Comers were Mechanics, and the
Hum of Industry was Soon Heard — Mr Brannan Extolled as La3dng the Comer-
Stone of San Francisco's Future Prosperity— Vessels Arrive by the Dozen
from all Parts of the World— The Author Purchases a Sample of Scale Gold
Dust from a Couple of Miners— Its Purity Doubted — It Stands the Acid Test
— Gold Weighing Scales in Demand — Arrival of the First Gold-Seekers— A
Broadside Salute from the Pacific Squadron then in Port— Alfred Robinson,
First Agent of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company — He Still Survives
Beyond the Age of Four Score Years— A Night Alarm— Safety Sought by
Frightened Women— Ruffianly Work of the " Hounds "—Mr. Brannan Takes
the Lead in a Movement Against the Desperadoes— Patrols Organized and
Parade the Streets for Weeks— The "Plounds" when Identified, were
Arrested, Ironed and Placed on Board the Ship " Warren to Await Trial —
Hall McAllister Appeared Against Them— A Tribute to McAllister— Mr.
Maynard Makes a Survey which Demonstrates the Possibilfty of Navigating
the Sacramento River with a Vessel of 600 or 800 Tons IJurden — He Goes East
and Forms a Syndicate which Purchases the " Senator "—When the Vessel
Arrives in the Bay Mr. Brannan as Spokesman of a Partnership of Four,
Offered $250,000 in Gold Dust for the "Senator," Which was Rejected—
The Vessel not for Sale — The "Senator" Leaves a Memorable Record.
After my return to the coast, with the brig " Eu-
phemia," in March, 1846, an idea came into my mind,
that in the course of business events, I would prepare
502 PROJECTED VOYAGE TO CALLAO.
a voyage for Callao, Peru, with the " Euphemia" or
some other vessel, carrying a cargo of tallow for that
market. In this I was inspired by the big gains of
vessels that were fitted out from Callao with assorted
merchandise for the coast of California. In return for
goods the vessels brought here, they went back to
Peru with tallow as a remittance, which was sold at one
hundred per cent, profit over the cost of the same here.
In the fall of 1847 I commenced getting ready for the
new field of operations. At Saucelito I deposited the
tallow collected from debtors to myself around the bay,
and from vessels trading on the coast, in exchange for
hides. In December following, the brig sailed for San
Diego, to touch at intermediate ports for collections of
more tallow. I had contracted with Don Eulojio de Celis
for a lot of tallow he had stored at San Diego, to make
up a full cargo. Before the brig reached Monterey,
she encountered a southeast gale of wind, and sprung a
leak. In the course of a week, a courier arrived from
Monterey with a letter from R. M. Sherman, who was
supercargo, informing me that they had arrived there,
and that the vessel was in a leaky condition. The bark
" Natalia," of Valparaiso, was leaving for Monterey at
the time the bad news reached me, and I took passage
on her. The brig returned to San Francisco ; the voy-
age to Callao having been abandoned for lack of a ves-
sel to convey the cargo. Had she been favored with
her usual luck, the venture would have been carried
out, with a prospect of a profitable result for her own-
TRADE WITH MAZATLAN. 503
ers. The proceeds of the tallow would hav'^e been in-
vested in ofeneral merchandise, as Callao was then a
depository for goods from Europe and the United States.
But, the adage, " Man proposes, God disposes," proved
true in this instance, and the vessel was sent to Hono
lulu for repairs, with her cargo of tallow, Mr. Sherman
as supercargo. The tallow was sold there at a loss.
While the " Euphemia" was being overhauled and
put in order, Sherman was busy buying a return cargo,
and his selections proved suitable for the mines, which
were discovered during his absence. The " Euphemia"
arrived at San Francisco just in the nick of time, in
June, 1848, a few days after the first appearance here
of the gold from Sacramento.
On the evening of Mr. Sherman's arrival, Mr. \V.
D. M. Howard invited eight of his intimate friends
(among the number the writer) to partake of a fine din-
ner, in honor of and to welcome Sherman's return. It
was in the early hours of morning that this group of
young argonauts retired to their homes, after an hilar-
ious and enjoyable feast.
In the fall of 1849, the " Euphemia" was chartered
by \V. D. M. Howard, Hiram Grimes, Joseph P.
Thompson, Eulojio de Celis and myself, for a voyage
to Mazatlan for Mexican goods, with a capital of $45,-
000 in gold dust. Celis furnished $15,000, and went
as supercargo; Howard and myself, $10,000 each, and
the other two of the company $5,000 apiece. At my
suggestion, Howard and I called on board the flag-ship
504 VOYAGE TO PORTLAND FOR FLOUR.
" Ohio," and asked Commodore Jones to give the
" Euphemia" an American flag, instead of the Hawai-
ian, which he readily did. The occasion of the in-
terchange of flags was celebrated with sparkling wine
on board the brig, by a large company of friends,
including Commodore Jones. The voyage to Mexico
proved to be a success to those interested in the enter-
prise.
Sometime in 1850 I sold the "Euphemia" to the
city of San Francisco, to be used as a prison brig, and
she was moored alongside Long Wharf for a time.
Thus ended the career of one of the luckiest ves-
sels to her owners that I have known in my long
business experience. She was homely and a slow
sailer, but carried more than double her tonnage in
freight. On her first voyage to California she cleared
$30,000 the day I obtained the receipt for the duties
and Custom House permission to trade up and down
the coast. Her numerous voyages to Honolulu and
San Francisco were very prosperous financially, and
during my ownership only one accident occured to the
" Euphemia."
The "Joven Guipuzcoana" was owned by Mr.
Aguirre, as I have before stated. In the beginning of
December, 1848, Major Reading, of the firm of Hens-
ley, Reading & Co., of Sacramento, was in my store
one morning. The subject of conversation between
the Major and myself on that occasion was the high
price of flour that ruled in the market. Reading sug-
WALLED IN BY ICE. 505
gested oretting up a voyage to Oregon for a cargo of
flour. I replied, "Yes, I have a vessel in port already
manned, belonging to Aguire." The Major wanted to
know how soon she could sail. I said, " Right away,
as she is already prepared for sea." Reading asked how
much money would be required for the speculation. I
replied, "$15,000, in this manner: Hensley, Reading
& Co. should pay in $5,000 — Aguirre and myself $10,-
000." I then asked Reading, who would go supercargo,
and suggested one of his partners, Jacob R. Snyder.
In two days from that tinie, the bark was on her
way to Portland, with a spanking breeze at her stern
from the southeast. She arrived at the Columbia river
and went to Portland in remarkably quick time.
Three or four days after her arrival; Mr. Snyder suc-
ceeded in buying a full cargo of flour for the vessel,
at reasonable prices. While she was getting ready to
start on the return voyage the Columbia river froze
over, and the vessel remained from December, 1848,
to April, 1849, walled in by ice. During the time the
bark was detained, many vessels arrived from Chili
with flour. The consequence was, when our flour
reached here it had no price in the market. It was
sent in the vessel to Sacramento, and jobbed out at fair
prices, so that we lost no money, but made some profit.
P. B. Reading was the Whig candidate for Gov-
ernor of California, in the election of 1851, against
John Bigler, the Democratic candidate for the same of-
fice. Being a Whig, I voted for the former, who was
defeated by Bigler.
506 THE BRANNAN COLONISTS ARRIVE,
The American flag was raised at Yerba Buena, by-
Captain Montgomery, of the " Portsmouth," as before
stated in July, 1846.
The ship " Brooklyn," Captain Richardson, arrived
from New York about the last of the same month. The
vessel brought passengers to the number of two hun-
dred and thirty, and I was the first aboard after she
dropped anchor, to welcome the new comers to our
embryo American town. It was on this occasion I met
Sam. Brannan for the first time, who was a passenger.
The " Brooklyn" came with an organized military com-
pany, at the head of which was Brannan as its leader.
They arrived a little too late for their object — 'to hoist
our national standard ; as thegood work had already been
accomplished by our squadron.
Many of the new coiners pitched their tents on a
lot of mine, on Washington street near Montgomery.
These additions to our small village, proved to be de-
sirable, as they were an industrious, hard-working and
thrifty class of people, intelligent and sober. Among
them were carpenters and house builders. After their
arrival, the echoes of mechanics' hammers vibrated
through the sand hills of Yerba Buena. From every
direction in the village, the signs of progress under the
change and that of the American system, became ap-
parent.
Soon after Brannan's arrival, he commenced busi-
ness in a spirit of push and energy ; and at once mani-
fested an interest in California's prosperity which he has
THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD. 50/
assisted materiallyj to develop and in promoting her va-
ried resources. He was always found at the front,
with open purse, in any enterprise to forward the in-
terest of the State of his adoption. If there is a man
who is deserving of recognition from the State of Cali-
fornia and the city of San Francisco, it is Sam. Bran-
nan. He assisted to lay the corner-stone of the cicy's
commercial greatness.
After the discovery of gold, at Sutter's mill-race
in May 1848, and the news had spread over the Pacific
Ocean, vessels began to come in with merchandise,
from Honolulu, Mazatlan, San Bias, Valparaiso, Callao,
Chinese and other Pacific ports.
By the time the first steamer arrived from Panama
with eastern passengers, there were already anchored
in the bay of San Francisco, quite a fleet of vessels of
nearly all nations, which had come to receive their share
of the newly discovered treasure, in exchange for goods,
which were in much demand to supply the wants of
those who had ofone in "Teat numbers to the mines
from all portions of the department, and of the pas-
sengers by vessels. In the month of June, 1848, two
miners came to my store with fine scale gold dust. I had
seen similar gold from the San Fernando mines in Los
Angeles county. But withal I was in doubt as to the gen-
uineness of the bright metal before me. The miners
and myself called on James C. Ward, a neighboring
merchant. He proved to be incompetent to de-
termine whether it was gold or not. \Vc four then
5o8 THE FIRST GOLD FROM THE PLACERS.
went to Buckalew, a jeweller and watchmaker. Mr.
Buckalew applied the aqua fortis, and at once pro-
nounced the metal pure gold. I bought the dust, over
one hundred dollars' worth, at sixteen dollars per ounce,
from the two miners, and paid them half in coin and
half in goods.
This gold was the first that arrived in San Fran-
cisco, and I was the first purchaser of the product of
the mines. All merchants transacted an immense
business, and there was no trouble in selling goods,
if we had them to sell. The receipts of gold from
the mines was so great, and the means of weighing it
so limited, that we had trouble from the scarcity of
scales. Buckalew being the only maker of scales was
kept at work from morning till night manufacturing
to fill orders.
Gold and silver coin became very scarce in the
market. The duties on goods from foreign ports, had
to be paid in coin, and the merchants were unable to
comply with the custom laws. An arrangement was
made with the Collector of the Port, to receive gold
dust on deposit from them, at ten dollars per ounce,
for duties, redeemable at the end of sixty days with
coin. Most of the gold pledged for duties was sold
at auction by the government, at the expiration of the
time, for about ten dollars per ounce, and less in some
instances. This action of the government w'as a great
hardship to the merchants, as they incurred a loss of
six dollars for each ounce thus sold, and particularly
THE FIRST SHIP LOAD OF GOLD-SEEKERS. 509
when it was known at the Treasury Department in
Washington, that the true value of the gold was from
eighteen to twenty dollars per ounce, assayed and made
into coin at the Mint in Philadelphia.
David Carter, of Boston, in the summer of 1848,
formed a copartnership with me, for carrying on com-
mercial business, between California and the Eastern
States. Mr. Carter left here in the fall of 1848, by
way of Central America. He carried with him about
thirty thousand dollars in gold dust, to be coined at
the United States Mint above named, and it was the
first gold coined at that time from California. I had
a small interest in this gold shipment.
One bright morning in February, 1849, the first
steamer from New York arrived here from Panama
with the first gold-seekers from, the Atlantic States. As
she rounded Telegraph Hill, the vessel careened to the
shore side, from the rush of passengers to get a look
at the town. The United States Pacific naval squadron
was anchored between Telegraph and Rincon Hills.
Commodore Jones' flag-ship was the " Ohio." The
other vessels were the " Portsmouth," " St. Mary,"
" Cyane," " Dale " and " Warren."
The sight of the steamer, with her immense load
of humanity, inspired the Commodore to order a general
salute from the vessels of the fleet simultaneously.
After the first broadsides from them they were en-
veloped in a cloud of smoke, until the end of the
greeting of twenty-one guns from each ship. The
510 THE FIRST SHIP LOAD OF GOLD-SEEKERS.
handling of the guns was so admirable that the firing
appeared as if from one only. The echoes of the
cannonading vibrated among the hills and valleys of
the surrounding country of the bay, as heralding the
future greatness of California.
Commodore Jones, who first planted the American
flag in California, in 1842, was the first to fire the
memorable salute in the bay of San Francisco welcom-
ing the immigrants who came subsequent to the dis-
covery of gold. The Commodore was proud of being
the first of our naval officers to welcome the new immi-
gration that subsequently laid the foundation of Califor-
nia, destined to assume the front rank among the States
of the Union. The scene is fresh in my mind ; the view
of the spectacle being grand, inspiring and awakening
the deepest enthusiasm. In this steamer came the
agent, Alfred Robinson, of the Pacific Mail Steamship
Company, which had just been organized in New York ;
and the " California " was the first vessel built by that
Company and sent out to the Pacific coast as the fore-
runner of a commercial fleet propelled by steam.
Don xAlfredo Robinson came to California in the
ship " Brookline," of Boston, in 1829, as assistant
supercargo. He arrived at Monterey and in the same
year came to San Francisco. He has now attained
the ripe age of over four score years and is mentally
and physically hale and strong, with the exception that
he has become almost totally blind. Of the very
earliest settlers of California Mr. Robinson stands first
A NIGHT ALARM. 5 I I
on the list of the few remaining argonauts. Jacob P.
Leese comes second, J.J. Warner, number three, (if
he is still living) and the writer, number four. It will
not take many more years before the names here
mentioned will disappear, as things of the past.
Immediately below my home, north of Jackson
and west of Stockton streets, there existed a hollow or
little valley, with low, rolling hills on each side. In it
in the summer of 1849, quite a village of tents was
temporarily inhabited by people from all parts of the
world, preparatory to departing for the mines. One
night in the early hours of morning my slumber was
disturbed by screams of women and children from
the hamlet of canvass. While I was reflecting, in
a half awake and half asleep condition, as if emerg-
ing from a dream or nightmare, I heard a sharp
knock at the door of my dwelling. In opening it,
there stood before me several women, tremblincr with
fright. They had escaped from their temporary homes ;
the poor creatures came to my house for protection,
which I gave them. One of the number, who proved
to be a cultivated Chilean lady, Dona Rosa Gaskell,
asked my wife to permit them to remain for the rest of
the night. Mrs. Gaskell was terribly alarmed for her
life. Her husband had gone to the mines. During
the melee at the scene of disturbance, the tents and
their fixtures were destroyed, and many persons were
injured bodily by the hands of a band of ruffians who
styled themselves the "Hounds."
512 ROUGHS IN A HAMLET OF TENTS
The town became alarmed and excited over this
affair, and energetic measures were at once adopted to
prevent a repetition of the outrage by these despera-
does. Mr. Samuel Brannan took the lead in the mat-
ter. Under his directions we organized patrols, and
the town was divided into districts, each district
guarded by a body of men under arms. I was ap-
pointed the head of seven, to guard north of Washing-
ton and east of Montgomery streets, running to the bay
from these thoroughfares. For several weeks I shoul-
dered one of Uncle Sam's shining muskets with bayo-
net, parading all night near the habitations of the
roughest elements of the town.
While we were protecting the place Mr. Brannan
was active and did good work. The breakers-of-the
peace were arrested as fast as they were found and
identified. They were placed on board the sloop of
war "Warren," in irons, preparatory to their trial by a
Court of the Territory.
Mr. and Mrs. C. V. Gillespie arrived here in
the American brig " Eagle," from Canton, in the begin-
ning of February, 1848. With this vessel another
American lady was added to the number of the very
few that were already here, who with the male popu-
lation were all very glad to welcome this estimable
lady to the new American town.
Hall McAllister brought letters of introduction to
Mr. Gillespie from the East, at the time when the
" Hound " excitement was at its highest pitch. Hor-
PRISONERS ON BOARD THE " WARREN. 513
ace Hawes was the prosecuting attorney against the
evil-doers and disturbers of the tranquihty of the town.
C. V. Gillespie, who was a member of the committee of
safety, suggested to Mr. Hawes the name of Mr. Mc-
Allister as a young man of talent and learned in the
profession of the law, to be associated with him in the
prosecution of the " Hounds." This was the cause
of his participating in those events. He prosecuted the
prisoners for the Territory with marked ability. That
trial established his legal talent, which developed up to
the time of his demise, and stamped him the foremost
barrister of the city of San Francisco and of the State
of his adoption. I may safely remark here, that he
probably had no superior in the Union in the law, con-
sidering that Mr. McAllister was master of all branches
of practice in his profession. The " Hounds" were
convicted after a stubborn and able defence by their
attorney, Myron Norton. R. M. Sherman and Wm.
H. Tillinghast were appointed a committee, to board
the "Warren," to interview some of the prisoners.
Some years after this occurrence, a young lady, a
cousin of Sherman, met an older lady accidentally in
New York. The subject of their conversation turned
on California. The former mentioned that she had a
cousin in California named Richard M. Sherman. The
latter replied that she was familiar with a part of the
early history of the Golden State. She had a son, by
the name of Higgins, who was one of the gang of
" Hounds," that were tried and convicted for the crime
514 COMMERCE ON THE BAY.
above named. It was a sineular coincidence, that
Sherman who was active in the exciting event and had
waited on Higgins in his official capacity, as a com-
mitteeman, was a relative of the young woman. Hig-
gins, the " Hound," was the son of the older lady.
The pressure was great for the first twelve months
or more after the discovery of gold, to transport passen-
gers and goods more speedily to the mines. The only
transporters of passengers and goods were sailing
schooners and launches. Early in 1849, Mr. John
Parrott suggested to me the project of building a steam
vessel, for commerce on these inland waters. Captain
William A. Richardson, John Parrott and myself were to
form a copartnership, with a cash capital of $45,000, as a
beginning for our enterprise. Mr. Parrott was to leave
for New York immediately, and to contract with a
builder for a steamboat of about 200 tons capacity, to
ply between San Francisco and Sacramento, with pass-
engers and freight. He departed on the U. S. flag-
ship "Ohio," by way of Mazatlan, for New York, in
February, 1849; and on arriving there, he found that
Jim Blair was then constructing a stern-wheel boat for
the bay of San Francisco and rivers adjacent thereto.
In a letter from Mr. Parrott to Richardson and myself'
he discouraged our scheme, for the reason that the
steamer already under construction for Blair would
supply the demand of the increasing trade with the in-
terior, and he thought that our undertaking would prove
financially disastrous.
MR. LAFAYETTE MAVNARD. 515
This news was anything but pleasant to the cap-
tain and myself, as the traffic with the mines had mul-
tiplied to such an extent that every man living- here
was astonished to witness the millions of wealth that
were pouring into the town of tents.
I wrote to Mr. Parrott that there was business
enough for our steamboat if she was built ; yea, and
eight or ten more with her, to meet the commercial
demands of the bay and its tributaries. In his answer
to my letter, he thought that my judgment was erron-
eous, and that he was right. The project was aban-
doned, through him, to the injury of himself and his
associates. The business would have produced for us
hundreds of thousands, if not a million or more of dol-
lars. I am sustained in this assertion by events that
transpired subsequently in this line of business.
Richardson and myself got our money back from
New York, after waiting a long while. Blair's boat
was called " Sutter," after the pioneer of Sacramento
Valley, and she did a large and profitabe business for
her owner.
Mr. Lafayette Maynard was the owner of a part
of block of real estate, bounded by Sacramento, San-
some and California streets, which bore his name. He
had been a lieutenant in the 'United States navy,
and was familiar with the art of surveying harbors and
rivers. He took Wilkes' survey of the Sacramento
river, and examined it critically for an object. He went
to capitalists in New York, explained and demon-
510 THE STEAMER "SENATOR.
strated to them that it was practicable and feasible for
a deep sea steamer of 600 or 800 tons measurement to
navigate the river to Sacramento city. The steamer
" Senator " was purchased by a syndicate, for the pur-
pose suggested by Maynard, and he was included in
the company. At the time of the transaction, she was
a packet out of New York, running on the Sound.
She departed immediately for San Francisco through
the Straits of Magellan, and arrived here early in Sep-
tember, 1849. Samuel Brannan, W, D. M. Howard,
(and, I think,) Bezar Simmons, and myself, made up
the party of four who boarded her soon after she
dropped anchor. Mr. Brannan, who was the originator
of the project, was selected by us as our spokesman.
He soon made known the object of our visit, and of-
fered the captain or agent of the steamer the large sum
of $250,000, in gold dust, at sixteen dollars per ounce,
for her sale to us. This offer was rejected with smiles,
by those representing the steamer. Mr. Brannan
again asked them what would they take for the vessel.
The answer came that she was not for sale. So ended
our trip to the most historic vessel of the days of forty-
nine.
It was often remarked that the '' Senator" had car-
ried enough gold from Sacramento to San Francisco to
sink her two or three times over with the weight of the
precious metal. Add to this the passage and freight
money, the former two ounces for the trip, and the lat-
ter from forty dollars to eighty dollars per ton, and the
THE STEAMER "SENATOR.' 517
amount received was enormous. It would probably take
two or three similar steamers to convey the freighted
gold, and the gold and silver coin she had earned for
her owners during the height of our gold production.
The " Old Senator," by which name she was fa-
miliarly known, is now moored in the waters of Aus-
tralia, as a coal vessel. Had she possessed intelligence,
she might have been too proud of her nationality, and for
her deeds of the past in the accumulation of wealth to
the country of her birth, to become a naturalized sub-
ject of a British colony,, by the change of flags.
Had Mr. Parrott exercised his known foresight
and great business ability, our steamboat would have
been one of the early conveyances on the waters of the
bay of San Francisco, in competing for our pro rata of
the enormous business, that was clone principally by
a few vessels moved by steam, of a commerce that
excited the business men of the known world.
CHAPTER LVII.
First Brick Building Erected in San Francisco by the Author — Heavy Rains Stop
the Work for a Season — Teaming Difficult — The Embryo City a Lake of Mud
— How Pedestrians Managed to get About — Commodore Jones Wants to
Remove the Brick Building, and Transport the Material of which it was Com-
posed to Benicia — The Commodore Fails to Make an Impression on the
Author's Mind that Benicia was to be the Future Metropolitan City of the Bay
— The Commodore's Offer Declined — Other Tempting Propositions Rejected
— The Building Subsequently Leased to the Government as a Custom House —
Seiior Jose Antonio Aguirre, the Author and Others Embark in Another
Business Enterprise ^The Ship Rhone Chartered and Dispatched to China for
Goods — Why the Speculation Proved a Failure — Flour from Chile — The
Author, with a Party, Goes on a Gold-Hunting Expedition to Lower California
— Precaution in Tent-Pitching against Rattlesnakes — Don Ramon fond of
Rattlesnakes as Food — An Ancient Olive Orchard — The Party Joined by Don
Manuel Castro and Five Soldiers, an Indian Guide and Interpreter — The Expe-
dition Arrives at Trinidad — The Interpreter Dispatched for Zapaje, an Old
Indian Chief, who knew Where the Gold was to be Found — The Chief Comes
into Camp with a Party of His Own — Generous Offers Made to the Old Chief
it he will Reveal where the Gold Exists — He declined Them — His Reason
for so Doing — The Chief obdurate to the End — The Expedition Consequently
a Failure — A Band of large fine Cattle purchased by the Author from Seiior
Emigdio Bejar in Lower California — The Cattle Arrive at San Leandro in
August 1852.
The first brick building erected in San Francisco
was commenced in September, 1849, by the writer, at
the northwest corner of Montgomery and Cahfornia
Streets ; forty feet on the first and eighty feet on the
latter street,, four stories high, with a cellar. The bricks
and cement, and other materials, were brought from
Boston. The winter of i849-'50 was so rainy that the
work on the structure was stopped early in November,
FIRST BRICK BUILDING IN SAN FRANCISCO. 519
and re-commenced in April, 1850. The rains were
heavy, and teaming difficult on Montgomery between
California and Jackson streets, and California, Sacra-
mento, Clay, Washington and Jackson streets. The
miniature city of that day was a lake of mud. To en-
able the pedestrians to move about, boxes of Virginia
tobacco and kegs of New England nails were placed
along the streets, about a foot or two apart, for side-
walks. On these goods the people traveled, by leaping
from a box to a kee, and from a keg of nails to a box
of tobacco, and thus the inhabitants managed to reach
their places of business and their homes. The influx
of tobacco and nails was so great that the articles had
no market value, but they were of use for the purposes
above described.
One lovely morning in April, 1S50, Commodore
Jones approached me where my building was being put
up, and said he had a business proposition for my con-
sideration. The naval commander of the Pacific
squadron immediately gave me the details of it ; which
was for me to stop building, and to undo what had
been done; and he would transport all the materials of
my structure to Benicia in one of his ships of war, free
of charge for freight.
He and other Benicians were to deed me a very
eligible piece of real estate in the city of the Carquinez
free of cost, conditioned that I should erect a large brick
building on the site. The Commodore went into the
particulars of the commercial advantages of Benicia
520 BENICIA, A PROPOSED METROPOLIS.
over San Francisco, in extended and able remarks, such
as a man of talent and of vast information would surely
make. After listening to the historical naval officer's
praises of the interior deep sea harbor, with all due
respect to his high rank, I said : " I beg to differ with
you. In my judgment San Francisco is destined to be
the harbor and business emporium on the Bay of San
Francisco, from her geographical position and accessi-
bility for vessels from the ocean." I thanked the Com-
modore for having spent more than an hour in attempt-
ing to convince me from his standpoint of the superior
advantages possessed by Benicia for being the future
big city of California, but was compelled to differ with
him nevertheless. At this time and previously, there
had been a vigorous move on the part of a few men, to
locate San Francisco at Benicia for all time, as the
great city on the waters of San Francisco Bay.
Among the schemers were Robert Semple. General
Vallejo, Thomas O. Larkin, Henry D. Cook, William
M. Stewart, and the heads of the United States army
and navy on the coast. I was talked to by some of the
parties above named, before Commodore Jones inter-
viewed me who made propositions of magnitiude in my
interest, from their view of the subject. They wanted
me to give up the city that I had assisted to build from
its infancy, and to establish my large business at Benicia ;
which was something that I could not accede to.
That building after it was finished, I leased to the
United States Government in June, 1850, for a Custom
I
BUILDING LEASED FOR A CUSTOM HOUSE. 52 1
House. The rental was to be three thousand dollars
per month, or thirty-six thousand dollars per year for
three years to run. In the great fire of May, 1851, the
Custom House succumbed to the devouring element ;
also other buildings and merchandise I owned, both
of which produced me an income of over ten thou-
sand dollars monthly, before the fire. The Collec-
tor retained possession of the premises lor over
a month, guarding the treasure which was saved
in the vault, which proved to be thoroughly fire-
proof The structure was filled with bonded goods
from cellar to top. The lease terminated with the
destruction of the building, and ended one of my
monthly incomes. But I demanded of the Collector pay
for the detention of the premises after the fire, the sum
of $6,ooc. He referred me to the Treasury Department
at Washington for my compensation. In the course of
many months, I received three thousand dollars through
Colonel J. U. Stevenson, who was my attorney in the
matter.
Thomas Butler King was the Collector of the Port
at that time. The removal of the treasure from the
ruins of my building, to the new custom-house. Palmer,
Cooke & Co's. old banking house, northwest corner ol
Kearney and W'^ashington streets, constituted a pro-
cession of about fifty armed men, which was headed
by the Collector with pistol in hand. This action on
the part of King, was ridiculed and censured by the
citizens as doubting the honesty of the inhabitants of
52 2 TRADE WITH CHINA.
the youno- city. The numerous law-abiding citizens
that Hned Montgomery street to view the transfer
of the treasure, would have protected the Government
funds from any attack that might have been made, with-
out the aid of the accompanying guard.
One evening in December, 1848, Sefior Aguirre
and myself were seated by a blazing fire, in the sitting
room of my home in San PVancisco. The wind was
blowing from the southeast, the windows of the dwelling
rattled with the storm, and the piazza was drenched
by the spattering of the silvery drops that fell from the
dark clouds overhead. I said to Don Jose Antonio,
that the "Joven Guipuzcoana" sailed but a week or
two since for Oregon, for a cargo of flour, and I had
another business proposition in my mind, to make for
his consideration : — " You and I both have money lying
idle. Let us arrange a voyage to China, for a cargo of
Chinese goods, for this market." He replied that
he had confidence in my business ability, and any sug-
gestion coming from me he would gladly assist to carry
out. I said, " Let us charter the ship Rhone for the
object and I will prevail on her owners to join us."
Mr. Aguirre was an old merchant that traded
between Mexico and China, mentioned previously, and
was familiar with the cost of goods in China ; also with
the prices of the articles when sold here. I asked him
what capital we would require for the expedition.
He said, not less than $100,000, to make it profitable
and that $1 20,000 would be still better. I replied, " Al
TRADE WITH CHINA. S~3
right; we will put in $40,000, and I think F^inley,
Johnson & Co. will invest $40,000; and I am sure
Cross, Hobson & Co., will make up the balance." He
suggested that I had better move in the matter soon.
The following day I arranged with the two firms above
named, and by noon the Rhone was chartered. The
beginning of January, i849. the American ship Rhone
departed for Canton via Honolulu. She took with her
$120,000 in gold dust at sixteen dollars per ounce, less
$4,000 which Cross, Hobson & Co. were unable to
provide to make up the full amount of their portion.
Mr. Finley who was also an old China trader
between Baltimore and China, went as supercargo, to
attend to the business of the Rhone. The ship returned
to San Francisco in the summer of 1849 with a cargo
of goods.
Mr. Finley had a written instruction, on the eve
of his departure, to invest the funds under his charge
wholly for China goods and no other. About half of
the cargo proved to be European and American goods,
and the market of San Francisco was glutted with such
articles. The entire cargo of the vessel was sold per-
emptorily at auction by Brannan 8z Osborn. During
the sale W. D. M. Howard and I were standing side
by side and offering bids to the auctioneer. Mr. Howard
said to me, " Why, if the invoice of the Rhone had all
been Chinese goods, the Rhone's cargo would have
yielded you a very large profit, over the capital you
invested." The owners of the cargo made a profit of
524 TRADE WITH CHINA.
more than one hundred percent, on the Chinese goods,
but lost on the other goods, in consequence of Finley's
acting contrary to his instructions. Had Mr. Finley
followed the old adage, " Obey orders or break owners,"
the rule would have been reversed in this instance to :
" Obey orders and enrich owners."
Let me remark right here, that it was the unanim-
ous wish of the charterers of the Rhone, that I should go
as supercargo instead of Finley, and the latter urged
me over and over to accept the appointment, and relieve
him of the responsibility of the undertaking. Had I
gone one thing is certain, I would have obeyed my in-
structions to the letter. In the end however we lost
no money, but made a profit.
In the summer of 1849, and after the arrival of the
ship Rhone from Canton, my friend Aguirre conceived
the idea for a business voyage to the Southern ports
of California. He had in my safe between $100,000
and $200,000 in doubloons and gold dust, and he was
eager to do something with it. «•
The bark Rochelle, of Boston, was in port, and
Aguirre wanted me to charter her for our joint account,
and I did so. Captain John Paty was in town without
a ship, and he was engaged for master of the vessel.
In a short time she was filled with goods, on freight for
different points on the coast, and with merchandise on
our own account. She sailed for Monterey, and after
she had passed Point Pinos in the night, the wind
shifted to the southeast. In' order to reach the anchor-
FLOUR FROM CHILE. 525
age of Monterey, she had to make tacks, and beat
against the wind. In standing in towards the shore on
which were the picnic grounds of olden times, south of
Point Pinos, she struck on a rocky point, in the dark-
ness and sprung a leak. Captain Paty, however,
managed to get her off and came to anchor. In a few
days after the accident, a courier arrived from Monterey,
with letters from Aguirre and Paty, informing me of
the mishap. At that time I was the owner of a Balti-
more-built bark of about three hundred tons burden,
named Hortensia, which was lying here in the stream,
preparatory to a departure later in the year for Valpa-
raiso in ballast for a cargo of flour, on my own account
for this market. This unexpected news changed the
programme of the Hortensia's intended voyage to Chile.
In twenty-four hours after the receipt of my mail from
Monterey, the Hortensia was on her way to the scene
of the disaster, with her owner as passenger. The
cargo of the disabled vessel was transferred to the
Hortensia and she performed the delivery of the goods
at ports south of Monterey as far as San Diego. The
Rochelle venture after all the serious and costly acci-
dent proved profitable finally.
This was the first misfortune that had occurred to
Captain Paty during his long career on the coast as
mariner and shipmaster. He looked very much depress-
ed, when he reached the deck of the Hortensia, after
we had dropped anchor. The misfortune of the
Rochelle was a good thing for the Hortensia, as it
526 DANGEROUS REPTILES.
proved afterward. The influx of flour from Chile dur-
ing;- the winter of 1849-50 was so great that its price
came down, and the shippers of the article suffered
heavy losses.
In 1850 and part of 1851, Mrs. Davis lived at
San Diego in her own house. During a visit to her in
the latter year, I was invited by a nephew of one of the
early governors of California, to join him and his
brothers, in a gold-hunting expedition to Lower Califor-
nia. Our company consisted of the three Arguellos,
myself, two servants, and two pack mules, for our bag-
gage and provisions. During our journey through the
sparsely populated country, to the Mission of Santo
Tomas, we camped every night near a spring or stream
of running water. Don Ramon Arguello, who acted
as our guide, would pitch our tents, after the ground
had been cleared of brushes and scrub oak, in a circle
of about 300 feet circumference, the boundary of which
was encircled with a rim of fire. This w-as done to
protect us from nightly attacks of rattlesnakes while
we slept. The territory was infested with these repul-
sive and dangerous reptiles. Every day during our
march, Don Ramon would kill, on an average, a dozen
of these snakes. He would eat a portion of their
bodies, after it was broiled over a hot fire, and often
remarked to me, that it was more nutritious than the
meat of a fat chicken. He tried to prevail on his
brothers, to share with him in his " tidbits," as he
called them.
AN EXPEDITION TO LOWER CALIFORNIA. 527
W'c Stopped as we moved along at the rancheros'
old adobes, and received their hospitalities — a repetition
of the treatment of strangers in Upper California in the
days gone by. We drank very good native wine, froni
the vineyards of the pioneers of the department. We
were several days in reaching Santo Tomas, where we
camped in the ancient olive orchard of the Misson, under
the shade of its trees. The trees were lofty, their
planting having been the work of the early mission-
aries, more than a century before my visit there.
Here Don Manuel Castro who was the military
commander of this part of the country, joined our party,
with five soldiers and a corporal, as an escort, to our
journey of discovery. General Castro also provided
us with an Indian, who was to interpret for us, with an
old chief, for whom we were in search, to obtain infor-
mation of the hidden bonanza.
The expedition arrived at Trinidad, a valley
in a mountain of over four thousand feet above
the level of the sea, twenty to thirty miles back
from the Pacific Ocean. Here we dispatched the in-
terperter with another Indian forChief Zapaje. In three
days time our couriers returned with the chief and other
aborigines. Our camp fed them well, before our big
talk took place over the object of our visit, with Zapaje.
General Castro was a talented man and a man of persua-
sive powerof language. He commenced first to convince
the chief, that if he would make known the coveted
spot and uncover it to us, he would present him with
528 AN EXPEDITION TO LOWER CALIFORNIA.
a maiiada of mares, ten saddle horses, and twenty-five
head of cows for himself and his tribe. The old man
was unmoved with this generous proposition from
Castro. The latter asked him through the interpreter,
what was his objection to lead us where the placer existed
after this offer of so much property. He replied that
more than seventy years ago, he was instructed by the
Fathers of Santo Tomas never to divulge to any one,
outside of the Church, the covered wealth of Lower
California; if he did he would incur the wrath of
«
God. and would die instantly. These early teachings
of the Fathers were indelible in the minds of these
Christianized Mission Indians, who were deeply impress-
ed with the Church notions, of keeping the world
ignorant of the whereabouts of this buried ore.
Don Santiaquito Arguello next argued with the
chief, to tell him where the gold existed, and offered
him one hundred head of cows, one manada of mares,
and five tame horses, if he would reveal the secret.
The chief turned a deaf ear to this proffer, and told the
interpreter to tell Senor Arguello, whom he had known
when a youth, that he would die soon after telling it.
I was the third to have the final argument with
the stubborn Indian. I commenced telling him that I
was a merchant of San Francisco, the owner of bales
of Turkey red handkerchiefs, calico, brown sheeting,
colored blankets, tobacco, and other articles suitable to
the Indian tastes of California; if he would show us
where the mine was located, I would give him two bales
A PURCHASE OF CATTLE. 529
of handkerchiefs, two of caHco, two of cotton, fifty pairs
of blankets, tobacco and other articles of value ; condi-
tioned that he brins^ us some of the gold first ; after
that we would meet him at this place with our presents,
and follow him with the animals and goods to the loca-
tion of the placer, where the whole property would be
delivered to him. His answer to my liberal proposition
was the same as already mentioned.
Here our hopes vanished for discovering the
rumored deposits of gold, known to exist in primitive
days of missionary regime. It w^as well known to
the early inhabitants of that part of the peninsula, that
gold existed ; and the priests handled plenty of it,
through the Indians of- the Missions. But the secret
of the deposits was kept by the priests, as a matter
of policy and from political and religious convictions ;
and by the Indians because of their superstitions.
On our way back to San Diego, we were inter-
cepted at the ruins of the Mission of San Vicente by
Don Emigdio Vejar. He was a member of a prominent
family of that name, in Los Angeles County, who were
large cattle owners. Seiior Vejar offered to sell me
seven hundred head of tame milch cows, many ot them
with suckling calves, and fifty head cabcstj'os, for seven
thousand dollars. I said to him I had no time to spare
to eo and see his cattle. He referred me to one of the
Arguellos who was present. The latter said that he
had seen the stock, and that they were large fine cat-
tle. I accepted Vejar's offer and bought the animals.
34
530 A PURCHASE OF CATTLE.
In May, 1S52, I visited San Diego, and received
from Arguello the cattle I had bought of Vejar the year
before.
On my way north with the band of cattle, I stop-
ped at Los Angeles about two weeks, during which
time I bought of Don Eulojio de Celis, seven hundred
large steers for thirteen dollars each. With this
purchase it made the drove a large one. The band
arrived at San Leandro in x^ugust, where they were
re-branded and re-earmarked with my iron and earmark.
The stock was removed to "San Joaquin" in the fall
of 1852, and Jose Antonio Estudillo, a brother of Mrs.
Davis took charge of them. The consideration for his
care over my cattle, being one-half of the increase from
the cows.
CHAPTER LVIII.
Senora Doiia Juana Estudillo's Portion of the Pinole Rancho — A Tract of Seven
Thousand Acres — It is named "San Joaquin " hy the Author — Four Thou-
sand Head of Cattle grazing on the " San Joaquin " in 1853 — The" Cybell,"
with a Cargo of three hundred thousand feet of Pine Lumber, forty thousand
Bricks, and Frames for eight or ten Mouses, arrives from Portland, Maine, in
the Summer of 1850 — The Author Purchases the Cargo for $10,000 — Build-
ing Material a Glut in the San Francisco Market — A Picturesque Spot for a
Town on the Encinal de Temascal, the present site of the City of Oakland —
The Author's Plans for the Laying Out of the Town — Negotiations with the
Owner of the Rancho for Purchase of the Premises in the Fall of 1846 — Don
Vicente Peralta Refuses to Sell the Property — The Owner Disposes of the
Land in 1850 to Col. Jack Hays, Caperton and others — The Rancho San
Leandro — A History of Squatter Troubles — Litigation Lasting for Years —
The Squatters finally Beaten — They Take Leases from the Estudillo P'amily
— The County Seat of Alameda County Removed in 1854 from Alvarado to
San Leandro — Mrs. Estudillo and her Children Deed the County Land for
Public Buildings — The town of San Leandro Laid Out, and a Fine Hotel
Built, called the "The p:studilIo."
Previous to my departure for Southern California,
I had a corral built, large enough to contain my cattle,
on my mother-in-law's portion of the Pinole rancho,
which I had named " San Joaquin," after the husband
of the proprietress of the land she had inherited from
her father and mother, Don Ygnacio and Doiia Martina
Martinez. Mrs. Estudillo added to her interest by
purchases from several of her sisters, who were also
heirs of the Pinole. In titling the new rancho, I simply
added San to the Joaquin, then it became the name of
a Saint. The Californians were in the habit gen-
erally of naming their ranchos after Saints; probably
532 THE PINOLE RANCHO.
from religious convictions that the Ruler on High
in all things would aid and guide them in their
daily pursuits. But it did not save them from the
avaricious enemies of the Spanish and Mexican grants,
Sefiora Doiia Juana Estudillo was the possessor
of over seven thousand acres of valuable land, a part of
the original " Pinole." She had the tract enclosed and
improved with good fences and buildings. Under
ordinary management it could have been made to pro-
duce from rents of the land enough income to have
supported Mrs. Estudillo and her children. But the
rancho was subsequently sold for thirty-eight thousand
dollars.
Probably the present owner and the original pur-
chaser from Mrs. Estudilloof the " San Joaquin " would
not sell it for half a million dollars. The Central
and Southern Pacific Railroad have acquired rights of
way through the estate.
In the end, my cattle speculation proved a success,
for many steers were sold in the fall and winter of 1853
and 1854, for fifty, sixty and as high as seventy dollars
for each animal. There were many of them stolen
from the rancho, for lack of watchfulness on the part
of the man who had the supervision of the animals.
Schooners and launches came to the beach along the
northern boundary of the rancho in the night, and the
very vaqueros under pay from Estudillo to guard the
cattle against thieves, were the men (villians) delivering
to the boats, not only my cattle, but also those that
THE PINOLE RANCnO. 533
were owned by the Estudillos themselves. My loss in
this way amounted to more than ten thousand dollars.
In 1853, the cattle at San Leandro were pretty
well hemmed in by the squatters, and deprived of their
pasturage, on their native soil. So it was compulsory
on the part of the owners, to remove them to " San
Joaquin," as their place of grazing, to keep them from
dying for want of grass and water.
My cattle and the herd from San Leandro made a
rodeo of over four thousand cattle, a very respectable
number compared with the round-up of the early days
of the department.
Don Jose Ramon Estudillo, another brother of
Mrs. Davis, was fond of the sport of lassoeing elk. He
told me once that on this identical spot of " San Joaquin, "
he had seen many of these beasts of the forest graz-
ing with the stock of the Pinole rancho.
After new San Diego was laid out, lumber was
wanted for building purposes, by the projectors of the
newly made plot, and by others ; also by the quarter-
master of the post, for government improvements.
About the latter end of the summer of 1850, the
brig " Cybell " of three hundred and fifty tons burden,
arrived from Portland, Maine, loaded with a cargo of
lumber and bricks. Mr. Bond of the firm of Hussey,
Bond & Hale, offered me soon after the " Cybell " drop-
ped anchor, the brig with her load of three hundred
thousand feet of pine lumber, eight or ten houses already
framed, and forty thousand bricks, for ten thousand
534 PLANS FOR BUYING THE SITE OF OAKLAND.
dollars, and I bought the vessel and cargo just as she
came from the East. The following day she sailed for
San Diego, with the same captain that brought her to
San Francisco.
The purchase proved profitable. About eighty
thousand feet of the same lumber were re-ship-
ped to San Francisco from San Diego in the winter of
1851-52, and I realized from it seventy dollars per
thousand feet, free of freight. At the time of the arrival
of the " Cybell," building materials were a glut in the
market of San Francisco. " The vessel was similar to
the " Euphemia," as a great carrier, for her tonnage.
It was evident after the change of flag that the
growth of San Francisco would be rapid, even without
subsequent discovery of gold and the influx of immigra-
tion caused by it. The resources of the department
were endless, as an agricultural and horticultural coun-
try ; also, for grazing purposes. The latter had been
demonstrated by the early settlers under the Mexican
rule. This prospective wealth of California was suffi-
cient to build and support one large city on the coast
San Francisco, being geographically well situated for the
commerce of the world, with her rich country border-
ing on the bay, and rich valleys accessible by water.
In my travels around the bay on business, I had
observed a picturesque spot for a town on the estuary
of San Antonio, due east from San Francisco. The
site was known in early times as Encinal de Temascal,
on Vicente Peralta's portion of the division of the Rancho
PLANS FOR BUYING THE SITE OF OAKLAND. 535
San Antonio, segregated by Don Luis Peralta, his
father. This site is the present city of Oakland.
My relation with Don Vicente was good, socially
and commercially. In the fall of 1846, he was in my
store making purchases. I told him I had a proposi-
tion to make for his consideration, and I desired him
to dine with me that evening. After dinner I broached
the matter, by saying to him : "You are the owner
of the Encinal de Temascal, and there is a spot on that
part of your rancho that pleases me for a town." He
wanted to know the exact location of the place, and
I pointed it out to him on a rough map I had prepared
for the purpose. I offered him five thousand dollars
cash for two-thirds of the Encinal, to build a church of
his faith, also to construct a wharf and run a ferry-boat
from San Francisco to the intended town, all of which
to be at my cost and expense. Whenever sales of lots
were made, we would both sign the deeds, and each
take his pro rata of the money. Don Vicente, in reply
to my talk, said that he would take the matter under
advisement and let me know.
He inquired the extent ot the land I sought to
purchase. I described it to him on my sketch, which
made Fifteenth street from the bay to Lake Merritt
the northern boundary, and thence from Lake Merritt,
following the meandering of the shore boundary of the
present city of Oakland to the intersection of Fifteenth
street with the shore line of the bav of San Francisco.
When we met again, Don Vicente was not prepared to
give me an answer.
536 PLANS FOR BUYING THE SITE OF OAKLAND.
While m}^ mind was full of my project, I inter-
viewed and explained to W. D. M. Howard, Sam. Bran-
nan, Henry Melius, Alcalde Hyde, James C. Ward,
Wm. A. Leidesdorff, Robert Ridley, Frank Ward, Hir-
am Grimes, Wm. M. Smith, Robert A. Parker, Fran-
cisco Guerrero, Josiah Belden, Bezar Simmons,
C. L. Ross, R. M. Sherman, and many others of the
leading citizens of San Francisco, my programme for a
" Brooklyn " for San Francisco — an outlet for the com-
ing city. Each of these gentlemen was willing and
anxious to buy a block or more of land for a retreat so
near the metropolis, whenever I completed my arrange-
ments with Peralta, and mapped the town.
During my numerous conversations with him at
various times on the subject before me, I told him that
if he declined to accept my generous offer, he would
suffer essentially, from a business standpoint ; that his
land would be squatted on, and his cattle slaughtered
without his knowledge at night by evil-doers, and the
meat shipped to San Francisco and sold. (Beef was
selling here at retail from three-quarters of a dollar to
one dollar per pound. I paid the latter price to supply
my table with meat in the winter of 1849-50.) That
if he sold me the land I would have the tract inclosed
at once with a good fence ; I would start the town with
the best and wealthiest people of San Francisco, which
would be a body-guard against the appropriation of his
property without his knowledge and consent. " Well,"
he said, " I must get the consent of my father for my
I
PLANS FOR 15UYING THE SITE OF OAKLAND. 537
action in the matter." This was simply done to put
me off, as he hated to part with any land, although
convinced that it would be for his benefit to put some
of his possessions into money. It was the old notion
of the big rancheros of the department to have leagues
of land, with thousands of animals.
I went to see his father at the city of San Jose,
accompanied by James Alex. F'orbes (British vice-
Consul for California, who was married to a sister of
Mrs. Vicente Peralta,) who knew the old man well.
Old Peralta said that the land I desired to buy from
his .son Vicente absolutely belonged to the latter. I
persevered in my project year after year, to induce Don
Vicente to yield to my liberal proffer, as I considered
1 was doing him a kindness. But it was of no avail,
and the stubborn man stood alone in his singular no-
tion, against the judgment and advice of his good wife,
of the British vice-Consul (his brother-in-law), of the
Catholic priest, and other friends of Don Vicente, all of
whom advised him to accept my proposition by all
means.
In the meantime, boatmen from San Francisco
were bringing meat from the cattle belonging to Vicente
Peralta to the city. These cattle were killed with
rifles in the night, under the shadow of the Encinal, by
parties who had already squatted on his lands. Atone
time Peralta and a vaquero came suddenly on a party
of men, in the night, who were quartering a beef, pre-
paratory to shipment to San Francisco. The squat-
53^ SQUATTERS IN POSSESSION.
ters immediately pointed their guns at Peralta and his
vaquero, who departed, in order to save their Hves.
This slaughtering of his animals began as early as
1848, before the discovery of gold. In the fore-part
of 1850 I made my last call on Don Vicente on this
business, to renew once more my offer. At this time
the Encinal de Temascal was well covered with squat-
ters. But I received the same reply as before. Prob-
ably the loss to Peralta in cattle would exceed one hun-
dred thousand dollars. I have heard it estimated by
others much above my figures.
He sold the site that I wanted to buy from him
in the fall of 1850, to Colonel Jack Hays, Major John
C. Caperton, Col. Irving, Alexander Cost, John Freanor
and others, for eleven thousand dollars, after spending
more than the amount he received, in fruitless lawsuits,
for the possession of his lands from the squatters.
Everything that I had predicted to Peralta, several
years before the date above named, proved to be a
reality, and he lost a large fortune by his stupidity, in
refusing to have me associated with him in the owner-
ship of some of his land, I had selected the best men
in San P>ancisco, as founders of the new town I had
conceived to build. Probably we would have prevented
Carpentier, Adams, Moon and others, from becoming
citizens of the town, adverse to our title.
Several years after the above event, one bright
spring morning, I met Don Vicente accidentally on
Broadway in Oakland. He was glad to see me, and
THE RANCIIO SAN LEANDRO. 539
invited me to a costly French breakfast. Durinf^ our
enjoyable meal, he referred to our old social and busi-
ness relations, and at last he broke out with an expres-
sion in his own language : " Vo fui uiuy tonto, dc no
aver acceptado su proposicion, tocante al Encinal de
Temascaiy (I was very foolish not to have accepted
your proposition, in regard to the Encinal de Temascal.)
In reply I said to him : " Es inutil de llorar por
leche deramadaJ' (It is useless to cry over milk already
spilt.)
The following narrative concerning an historical
Rancho in Alameda County, is a fair illustration of cer-
tain events throughout the State generally, after the
change of government, in respect to the difficulties and
annoyances endured by the early settlers, and legal own-
ers of the land and rightful possessors, in retaining
their homes from the grasp of unscrupulous squatters
and adventurers.
In 1834 and 1835, Don Jose Joaquin Estudillo was
living at the Presidio of San Francisco, and was elected
first-alcalde of the district at the time. In the latter
part of 1835 or the beginning of 1836, he removed to
Rancho Pinole, and in the same year he located with
his family at San Leandro.
Jose Joaquin Estudillo settled on the Rancho San
Leandro in 1836. He first obtained a written permit
from the governor of the department to occupy the
land. After he had located there with his family,
he petitioned Governor Alvarado for a title. While the
540 THE RANCHO SAN LEANDRO.
Governor had the matter under consideration, Guil-
lermo Castro, who owned the adjoining rancho San
Lorenzo of six leagues to the east of San Leandro, was
intriguing with Alvarado to obtain a grant of the same
land. Governor Alvarado had married a first cousin
of Castro. Although the former was on intimate terms
with Estudillo, the governor was rather inclined to
favor his cousin.
Estudillo and Castro were both summoned by the
governor to appear before him. to determine the peti-
tions of the two applicants. Estudillo triumphed over
Castro in the controversy. The former received his
title papers in 1842 for one league of land, more or
less, within and according to the following boundaries :
on the west the Bay of San Francisco, on the north
the arroyo (creek) San Leandro, on the east the first
ridge of mountains or hills, and on the south the arroyo
San Lorenzo. The consideration of the grant was the
military services rendered by the grantee to his country.
At the time that Don Joaquin settled on this land, he
commenced with three hundred baquillas (heifers) to
breed from. On his death in 1852, he left to his heirs
about three thousand head of cattle, the increase of the
original number after those he used and sold. Senor
Estudillo had a peculiar idea of breeding white cattle;
it was that it would enable him to see his stock at a
great distance. In his large herd you could observe
them more distinctly from their whiteness over the other
cattle of the rancho.
THE RANCIiO SAN LEANDRO. 54 1
I well remember the occasion of the visit of Dona
Martina, the mother of Mrs. Estudillo to San Leandro
in 1850. Mrs. Martinez viewed the rancho of San
Leandro from the cupola of her daughter's residence.
She admired Don Joaquin's idea of breeding white
cattle, because she saw they could be distinguished
when far away. This lady was the owner of the Pinole
rancho with thousands of animals.
In 185 1 men commenced settling on the San
Leandro rancho, against the wishes of its legal owner.
The squatters had started a story that Estudillo had
changed his title papers from one league to two leagues
of land. Estudillo's grant called for one league, more
or less, in accordance with the desefio (plat) and all the
land contained therein belonged to the grantee. It
was so decided by the government of the United States,
and a patent was issued to Estudillo for seven thousand
and ten acres of land. Don Jose Joaquin was an edu-
cated, intelligent and upright man, and he had nothing
to gain from a pecuniary standpoint in making the
alterations as alleged by the squatters, as the owner-
ship of the tract was already in him. Besides, all title
papers before delivery to the grantee were recorded in
the government archives at Monterey. The scheme
of the enemies of the title was inconsistent with the
facts. Squatting first made its appearance along the
banks of the San Lorenzo creek, at a place subsequently
known as " Squatterville." It soon spread over the
entire rancho. Erom the incipiency of the epidemic,
542 THE RANCHO SAN LEANDRO.
the sons and sons-in-law of Senor Estudillo opposed the
evil-doers in seizing the land. At times when we en-
countered these men in their different holdings, there
was a tendency or appearance towards a bloody affray.
But among" them, there were conservative counsellors
and prudent squatters, who invariably prevailed on the
rougher class to avoid bloodshed.
Only in one instance was this good advice dis-
regarded. A young, intelligent man from Vermont, by
the name of Albert W. Scott, was severely wounded by
a pistol shot through the body, by one of the leaders
of the squatters named Caleb Wray. Young Scott was
helping John C. Pelton, who had been employed by the
family to erect fences on the rancho, to prevent further
invasion of the land, if possible, by the wrong doers.
Scott recovered after many months of good nursing by
the mother of the Estudillos. Since his narrow escape
from death in protecting the rightful owners of the San
Leandro, Mr. Scott has become a prominent merchant in
San Francisco, and he has met with good success in
business. He has been elected once or twice on the
Board of Education in this city ; also, he was elected
several times as Supervisor of his district in the city.
Once in the spring of 1852, during my temporary
absence to the Southern country, the cattle of the rancho
that were raised along the San Lorenzo creek and vicin-
ity, suffered greatly for want of water. The squatters
had fenced in the entrance to the creek, and prevented
the stock from getting to the only place where they
THE RANXHO SAN LEANPRO. 543
could be enabled to drink. John B. Ward happened
to know Captain Chislhom, one of the squatters on the
creek, and he prev^ailed upon him, to allow the poor
animals to take their daily beverage of pure fresh water,
and keep them from dying from thirst.
Some of these men were very malicious, and they
often shot and wounded horses and cattle that were
raised on the rancho and they always did so under the
cover of darkness.
While the controversy with the squatters was pro-
gressing in these exciting times of 1851, 1852, 1853
and 1854, Mr. Ward and myself were asked by the
lawyers of the rancho to bring them the title papers.
Mr. Ward undertook to do so, and carried the papers
in his breast coat pocket. On leaving the embarca-
dero of San Leandro in a small launch, in the night,
on his way to San Francisco he assisted the crew of
the craft in poling and rowing through the meandering
of the creek. While thus engaged, the papers fell out
of his pocket into the water, and in the darkness of the
night were lost. This created another furore by the
enemies of the title. During all these turbulent times
the members of the family were in constant fear of
their personal safety.
The family instituted several ejectment suits
against the squatters. In each trial the jury disagreed,
but the majority of them in each case were against the
wrong holders of the land. Thereupon John B. Ward,
the lawyers and myself, formed a plan, which after-
544 MOVING A COUNTY SEAT.
ward proved successful in bringing the squatters to
terms. An interest in the land was ceeded to one
Clement Boyreau, an alien. This enabled us to reach
the jurisdiction of the United States Circuit Court.
The squatters were sued by Boyreau in that Court.
The trial lasted several weeks, and Judge Hoffman,
who had been sitting with Judge McAllister during the
trial, rendered a decision favorable to the plaintiff.
This just verdict of the Federal Court overthrew the
squatters. They then took leases from the family,
pending the decision of the United States Supreme
Court, on the appeal regarding the title proper.
After the compromise in 1856 with the squatters,
those that occupied the lands at Squatterville, bought
at thirty dollars per acre one thousand acres ; terms,
one-third cash, the remaining unpaid amount in
one and two years in equal payments, at ten per cent,
interest per annum.
. In 1854 or 1855 the voters of Alameda county
were dissatisfied with the location of the county seat at
Alvarado, because it was not central, being within a
short distance of the northern boundary of Santa Clara
county. There was an election ordered for a choice of
the county seat by popular vote. There were several
candidates in the field, among them San Leandro, which
succeeded over the other competitors. The county
seat was removed from Alvarado, and the family man-
sion was surrendered to the county for a temporary
court-house.
THE TOWN OF SAN LEANDRO. 545
This Structure was subsequently destroyed by fire
in the night. There were many conjectures by the
people of the county as to the origin of the fire. Prob-
ably it was the work of a vicious man, in order that
the county seat might be removed back to i\lvarado.
After the fire the county seat still remained at San Le-
andro.
The people of Alvarado eventually succeeded in
getting back the records, through some technicality of
the law.
But again it was put back to San Leandro, where
it remained for years. Subsequently there was a law
enacted for its removal to Oakland.
While Mr. Ward and myself were canvassing the
county for San Leandro, a plan was submitted b> us to
Mrs. Estudillo and her children to lay out a town for
the coming county seat, if we were successful. San
Leandro succeeded in the election, and a deed was ex-
ecuted to the county by the family, of a site for the
county buildings. Two hundred acres of land were
also reserved and a town was mapped, which is the
present town of San Leandro. A fine hotel was built
by the family, and named after the founder of San Le-
andro, " Estudillo."
In 1856 and 1857 which were the last years of my
management of the San Leandro, with Ward, the
income of the rancho was more than forty thousand
dollars yearly for rents of land. This enabled Mr.
Ward and myself to discharge most of the liabilities
35
546 FRUITFUL, FERTILE LAND.
that were incurred in our expensive litigations to recover
the productive lands of the rancho. It thereafter pro-
duced a large revenue to the family from the very men
who originally were adverse to our title. When I
ceased to be one of the business managers, I left the
estate with more money due from the sales of land, than
the rancho was owing for our costly lawsuits. The
San Leandro rancho w*as considered by many good
judges of land, the best and richest soil under the
canopy of Heaven. The income of it was enough for
two, yea, three Estudillo families.
CHAPTER LIX.
Ports in the Department where Hides were conveyed through the Surf to \-essels
-An instance of Feminine Self-assertion, manifested by a patriotic Mexican
Lady-An Interview with a Reporter of the San Diego i-««-The Author
imparts Information of Occurrences at the Port of San Diego in 1831-The
First Building and an Extensive Wharf erected at New San Diego by the
Author in 1850-Military Necessity-The Wharf converted into Fire-wood
by the Soldiers of the United States Army in ihe Rainy Winter of 1861-62-
The Congress Appealed to for Compensation-The Senate Passes the Bill-
Why no Adequate Relief was ever Granted-General Nathan Lyon gives a
Dance and Entertainment at Military Headquarters in San Diego-An Enjoy-
able Reunion-Fair Women and Brave Men-Correspondence relating to the
Administration of First-Alcalde Hyde, of the District of San Francisco-
Names of Residents at the Presidio of San Francisco, at the Mission and in
Verba Buena, on the date of Conquest July 8, 1846.
There were several ports I'n the department, where
the hides were transported to the vessels from the shore
through the surf, namely : Santa Barbara, San Luis
Obispo, Santa Cruz and Monterey (the latter before
the wharf was built by the government.) The ship's
long boat was moored just outside the rollers, with two
sailors on board to receive the cargo from the surf
boats. The latter were hauled upon the beach out of
the reach of the waves, and loaded, say, with ten hides
each. The men would watch for the first, second and
third rollers to comb and foam, and before the fourth
made its appearance, the boats were pushed into the
water energetically, with a man or two on board each
to scull to the launch and unload the hides. This was
repeated until the latter was loaded and towed to the
54^ SURF BOATS FLYING THROUGH BREAKERS.
ship. Between the third and fourth rollers, there is a
lull of a minute at the most in the movements of these
dangerous billows of the sea. The steersman of a surf
boat, in approaching the shore, watched his opportunity
for the fourth roller always, and guided her straight for
the landing, and went in flying with the breaker, with
the stern elevated to an angle with the bow of about
thirty degrees, at a velocity of about 12 to 15 miles an
hour, and during this exciting speed for a small boat,
the oarsmen peaked the ends of their oars to the bottom
of the boat whereby their outer ends were elevated
beyond the reach of the roaring sea. All this work in
landing and embarking for the vessels had to be done
quickly, to avoid being swamped by non-compliance with
the movements of the swell of the ocean, and for the
salvation of life and property in those early days when
wharves had not been built. But the crew and others
of the ships, became experts with years of experience
in voyages up and down the coast of California.
There were other seaports on the coast from which
the rancheros shipped hides and tallow, namely : El Cojo
(Point Concepcion,) La Gaviota, and Refujio before
mentioned. The Mission of San Juan Capistrano,
about sixty miles south of Los Angeles, in the days of
her glory in wealth, exported hides and tallow, from the
beach known by that name and not far distant from the
Mission. These large estates transported their produc-
tions in the same way as I have above described.
Occasionally the surf landings were rougher than at
PATRIOTIC CALIFORNIA LADV. 549
Other times, from the action of the winds. When the
beach was very rough after a heavy wind along the
coast, tallow in bags were put in the water and towed
to the vessels, and dried thoroughly on deck before
being placed in the hold.
A native California lady named Sefiora Doiia
Josefa Estrada de Abrigo. half-sister of Governor
Alvarado, resided at Monterey in 1842 (where she still
resides) at the time Commodore Jones raised the Ameri-
can flag over that city. She was one of the most beauti-
ful and intelligent of her sex. Like all her people,
she felt deep chagrin that the fortunes of war should
bring about a change which would compel her to sub-
mit to the new order of things.
Commodore Jones as a gentleman, aside from his
official rank, was an acceptable visitor in the families of
the native Californians, where he was treated with
courtesy, which he reciprocated in kind, as one who
fully appreciated the situation, and would not permit
himself to be outdone in gallantry.
One day he called at the Abrigo mansion, and
alluded to the fine appearanceof the assembled children
—especially extolling the manly bearing of the boys.
Acknowledging the compliments with a smile and
graceful obeisance, la Senora said, good naturedly, but
with ill-concealed warmth : " I am only sorry. Commo-
dore, my sons were not old enough to offer resistance
when you captured our city." To which Commodore
Jones replied: "The sentiment does you honor,
550 OCCURRENCES AT SAN DIEGO.
madame. As lovers of their country, it would certainly
have been their duty to do so." Sefiora Abrigo, it may
may be remarked, is at this writing (October, 1888,) 74
years of age and in a remarkable state of mental and
physical preservation.
The writer was interviewed by a reporter of the
San Diego Stin, in December, 1887, to whom he impart-
ed the following information :
" In the year 183 1, our three vessels were at La
Playa, preparatory to one of them loading for Boston.
It was at this time that Mr. Jones removed to the
Presidio above Old Town, taking with him a cook from
one of the vessels, two stewards and two servants.
He rented a home at the Presidio, which was then
located at the present ruins, on the eminence just above
the palm trees in Old Town. The military headquar-
ters and the soldiers of this department were located
there. In fact, all the inhabitants of this section were
living at the Presidio. It was quite a lively town. At
our house, which was a building of six or eight rooms,
we entertained many beautiful Spanish women at din-
ners, and also at dancing parties. We were there
about two or three months, and during that time one of
the vessels in the bay was loading for Boston,
"The location of the Presido was chosen from a
military point of view, to protect the citizens of this
miniature city, from the ferocious and savage Indians
of those days. In the town the inhabitants, soldiers
and citizens numbered between 400 and 500. Quite a
OCCURRENCES AT SAN DIEGO. 551
large place. There was a great deal of gaiety and re-
finement here. The people were the elite of this por-
tion of the department of California. In the garrison
were some Mexican and not a few native Spanish
soldiers. What is now called Old Town, was at that
date laid out, but was not built for some time thereafter.
Whenever a ship came to anchor at La Playa, saddle
horses were at once dispatched from the Presidio to
bring up the supercargo and captain. The voyage of
these vessels from Boston, usually occupied from one
hundred .and fifty to one hundred and seventy-five days.
Monterey being the seat of government of California,
and the port of entry of the department, all vessels were
compelled to enter that port first. After paying the
necessary duties, they were allowed to trade at any of
the towns along the coast, as far south as Lower Cali-
fornia.
" I returned to the coast in the Boston bark " Don
Quixote," Captain John Paty, in 1838, havmg been ab-
sent about two years. Afterwards I became supercargo
of the same vessel. During my two years' absence,
the town (or Presidio) on the hill gradually changed its
location to where Old Town now exists. The popu-
lation was about the same, with possibly a natural in-
crease. The rancheros of the vicinity usually kept
their families at the Presidio as a protection against the
Indians.
" P>om 1838 to the present time I have been a res-
ident of California.
552
OCCURRE^XES AT SAN DIEGO.
" Of the new town of San Diego, now the city of
San Diego, I can say that I was its founder. In 1850,
the American and Mexican commissions, appointed to
estabhsh the boundary Hne, were at Old Town. An-
drew B. Gray, the chief engineer and surveyor for the
United States, who was with the commission, intro-
duced himself to me one day at Old Town. In Febru-
ary, 1850, he explained to me the advantages of the
locality known as " Punta de los Muertos " (Point of
the dead), from the circumstance that in the year 1787
a Spanish squadron anchored within a stone's throw of
the present site of the city of San Diego. During the
stay of the fleet, surveying the bay of San Diego for
the first time, several sailors and marines died and were
interred on a sand spit, adjacent to where my wharf
stood, and was named as above. The piles of my
structure are still imbedded in the sands, as if there had
been premeditation to mark them as the tomb-marks of
those deceased early explorers of the Pacific ocean and
of the inlet of San Diego, during the days of Spain's
greatness. I have seen "Punta de los Muertos" on
Pantoja's chart of his explorations of the waters of the
Pacific.
" Messrs. Jose Antonio Aguirre, Miguel de Pedro-
rena, Andrew B. Gray, T. D. Johns and myself were
the projectors and original proprietors of what is now
known as the city of San Diego. All my co-pro-
prietors have since died, and I remain alone of the
party, and am a witness of the marvellous events and
A VALUABLE WHARF CONFISCATED. 553
changes that have since transpired in this vicinity
during more than a generation.
" The first building in new San Diego was put up
by myself as a private residence. The building still
stands, being known as the San Diego hotel. I also
put up a number of other houses. The cottage built
by Andrew B. Gray is still standing, and is called " The
Hermitage." George F. Hooper also built a cottage,
which is still standing near my house in new San Diego.
Under the conditions of our deed, we were to build a
substantial wharf and warehouse. The other proprie-
tors of the town deeded to me their interest in Block
20, where the wharf was to be built. The wharf was
completed in six months after getting our title in
March, 1850, at a cost of $60,000. The piles of the
old wharf are still to be seen on the old wharf site in
Block 20. At that time I predicted that San Diego
would become a great commercial seaport, from its fine
geographical position and from the fact that it was the
only good harbor south of San Francisco. Had it not
been for our civil war, railroads would have reached
here years before Stanford's road was built, for our
wharf was ready for business."
In connection with this subject, it will be proper
here to relate the following brief story. In the winter
of 1861-62 unusually heavy rains fell in San Diego
County, being thirty inches, the average fall for that
section of the State being nine inches.
There were collected together six hundred or seven
hundred soldiers of the United States Army, at the
554 AN APPROPRIATION DEMANDED.
military depot in San Diego, from Arizona to go East,
and from the East and San Francisco to go to Arizona,
to guard the territory against the confederates. During
those unparalled storms, the country around the depot
became miry and the travel for heavy teaming impos-
sible. The fuel at the soldiers' quarters gave out, and
there was no way to replenish the supply for the troops,
to keep them alive with warm food. My wharf and
warehouse were still in existence near the depot, and
earning me several hundred dollars per month for wharf-
age and storage. The commanding officer of the post
decided to use my property for fire-wood, as a military
necessity. Being war time, it was demolished for that
purpose, and I lost my income.
A few years after the occurrence, I went to work
and collected evidence, in connection with the destruc-
tion of the wharf and warehouse. I appealed to Congress
with the facts I had obtained for compensation fo rmy
loss. The Senate passed a bill unanimously, appropriat-
ing sixty thousand dollars as my pay; but it was defeated
in the House. At last. Congress enacted a law creat-
ing General Saxton (Quartermaster-General of the Paci-
fic Coast) as a Commissioner, to take testimony in Cali-
fornia. Several sessions were held in San Francisco ;
also three or four at San Diego, where the property
was located. The testimony before the Commissioner
was overwhelming in my behalf. After these proceed-
ings the claim was before the House, Congress after
Congress, asking that body to appropriate a just and
SETTLEMENT AT TEN CENTS ON THE DOLLAR. 555
equitable amount, under the Commissioner's investiga-
tion and report, for my reimbursement. In 1884-85 I
was voted $6,000 in full payment for the sixty thousand
dollars, which the Senate had allowed. While I was
in Washington attending to the matter, a member of
Congress remarked to me one day: — "The Govern-
ment has the power to take your property, and you
get your pay the best way you can, if you ever get it."
This was said by the gentleman in a general way.
The depot block which I have mentioned above
was donated to the government, by the original proprie-
tors of New San Diego, at my suggestion, together
with another block of land adjacent to the depot, and a
wharf privilege for all time. The real estate has become
very valuable, as well as the water property, since the
rapid growth of the city next to Mexico, on the water
front of California.
Speaking of the old historic building, at the mili-
tary headquarters, which has been the receptacle for
government stores since the year 1850 : The lamented
General Nathan Lyon of our civil war times, was quar-
ter-master during the construction of the building. On
its completion Captain Lyon said to me one evening :
" I am going to give a baile at the building, with the
aid of my brother officers. Will you assist me to get
up the amusements ?" I replied, " Certainly, I will help
you with pleasure." Captain Santiaquito Arguello was
selected to invite the fair sex, from the old town, from
the ranchos, and from the city of the angels. The
55^ ARMY HEADQUARTERS IN SAN DIEGO.
assemblage of women constituted the elite of San Diego
and Los Angeles, which places were noted in early
times for their handsome women. The party dispersed
in the early hours of morning, guided by the dim light
of a constellation to their homes. Thus terminated an
enjoyable reunion more than a generation since.
Some three or four years since, I met General
Vallejo, in the court-yard of the Palace Hotel, convers-
ing with a few intelligent-looking American tourists. I
remarked to him on his youthful appearance, for a man
of his ripe age. He said he was the living patriarch
of his countrymen, many of whom have passed away at
great ages. "Yes, General," I_said, " I well remember
seeing you at the Presidio of San Francisco in 1833.
You were then the comandante of that military post —
a young soldier in the Mexican army." The General,
addressing the strangers, told of his sports of early days.
He said right where we all stood, he lassoed a large
bear with his reata. He was noted for his horsemanship
among the rancheros of the department. The listeners
from the East looked at the General with a good deal
of curiosity. They were astonished that the man who
stood before them, was an actor in the exciting scenes
of the primitive days of the Golden State at Yerba
Buena, which was then only inhabited by the wild
beasts of the forest. Now look back two generations,
and see at the site of the incident above named, the
magnificent Palace Hotel and its beautiful surround-
ings.
ALCALDE HYDES ADMINISTRATION. 557
Inasmuch as the reputation of Mr. Hyde was in-
volved in the charges made against hini while he
served as alcalde of San Francisco in 1847, and as he,
like all gentlemen with a high sense of honor, feels
sensitive in the matter, I have granted him the space
in these pages to give his own statement concerning
the charges and the attending circumstances. It is
as follows :
"A ring had been formed which induced Mr.
Edwin Bryant, my predecessor in office, to arbitrarily
'make changes and alterations in the surveys, pending
the act of making old surveys rectangular, thereby
breaking his own contract with the citizens and injur-
ing some to oblige thisring; all of which was proved
when the first charge against me to this effect was be-
fore the commission. Immediately after I assumed
office, in June, 1847, this party approached me to se-
cure similar results. I was solicited to cause the sur-
vey of the 100 vara lots on the south side of Market
street, to be moved forty feet further south, in order to
make certain lots they desired to procure, south of
of Howard or Folsom street, more eligible, by lifting
them out of the boggy location ; and also to make a
block of land at the junction of Bush and Battery, or
thereabout, more eligible for business purposes. I de-
clined, because it would be an arbitrary act and injure
many persons who already had vested rights. I was
also asked to change the survey of the water and beach
lots, by making the lots into slips of 50 varas wide —
55^ ALCALDE Hyde's administration.
streets intervening from the beach out to ship channel.
This was also refused, because the survey, as fixed by
Mr. Bryant, was nearly completed. I soon after this
became the object of frequent anonymous attacks from
the California Star, which culminated in the charges
concocted and preferred, and which, so far as they
went, were triumphantly disproved. They were actu-
ally turned against my assailants, for the whole matter
was well understood in its correct light by the entire
community. I was opposed to the sale of the water
and beach lots, as granted by General Kearney, and
sought to influence the Governor to allow a postpone-
ment, but I, being in office by military appointment,
had to obey orders, and the lots were sold as surveyed.
C. L. Ross, under his name, bought a number of lots
for individuals who were members of the r/;^^ previously
referred to. Their first effort was to get rid of paying
the customary fees for recording the deeds. Coached
as to the objections he was to interpose, Ross urged
many silly reasons for refusing to pay. and finally sub-
mitted the matter to the Town Council, which body de-
cided in my favor. Ross still persisted in refusing to
pay, and I agreed to leave the matter to Hombres Bu-
enos (arbitrators), each selecting one, and these two the
third. Mr. Ross, after a few days, informed the alcalde
that he had selected Mr. Folsom. On the following
day the true state of the case was discovered. Folsom
was one of the actual purchasers ; and of course no de-
cision was ever reached. Putting all these things to-
ALCALDE Hyde's administration. 559
gather, it is very easily seen who of my assailants
had motives for defacing maps, preferring charges,
etc. ; and likewise to perceive zuhy the committe bring-
ing the charges refused to appear before the commis-
sioners to continue proceedings. They well knew that
a further exposure would consign them to ruin and
the contempt of the public.
George Hyde."
The annexed letters are literally copied in vindica-
tion of Alcalde Hyde :
''To George Hyde, 1- Alcalde:
Sir: I acknowledge the receipt of your letter of
yesterday evening enclosing a copy of a letter purport-
ing to be a letter from the Town Council to the Governor
together with his reply thereto, and also your several
requests to which I respectfully return the following :
I was not present at any meeting of the Town Council
sitting as Commissioners to investigate the Charges pre-
ferred against you by a Committee of Citizens, nor has
there been any such meeting publicly held since Decem-
ber last. Consequently I am not aware of the subject
having been entertained ; but have heard that the de-
termination you allude to, soliciting the Governor to
remove you, was made by the four members whose
names you have mentioned, at a secret meeting which
I was not invited to attend. I have not been officially
called on to sit in my capacity as commissioner to
investigate since last December, nor has there been an
official meeting of the board. But four of the ten
560 ALCALDE HYDE's ADMINISTRATION.
charges have as yet been entertained, and I know
that you have repeatedly soHcited the board to cause
them to be brought to a speedy determination. Through-
out the entire proceedings, and up to the present time,
the Gentlemen whose names you mentioned have pub-
licly expressed in my hearing that the Committee
preferring the Charges have completely failed to prove
them and that its proceedings were a perfect humbug ;
two of the persons preferring the charges have also
admitted that fact in my presence, one saying that he
wished he had never had anything to do with it, the
other that he would not bother himself any more about
it. I am very Respectfully,
Your Obt. Servant,
W. S. Clark.
San Francisco, March 20, 1848."
*' San Francisco, July 16, 1855.
Geo. Hyde, Esq.
Sir: I rec'd yours of the 25th June, in regard
your question when Alcalde in 1847. I was chairman
of a committee of the Town Council of San Francisco,
to investigate the charges preferred against you, and in
respect to the first interrogation, I say that it is not
true they were established by proof To the second,
that, by the testimony, you fully and completely exoner-
ated yourself from all responsibility.
Yours Respect,
Robert A. Parker."
LATITUDE IN PROSECUTING CHARGES. 56 1
"San Mateo, July 23rd, 1855.
My Dear Sir : I received your note of June 25th
requesting an answer to two interrogatories therein
contained concerning certain charges preferred against
you whilst alcalde. I say that the two charges as
examined, were not established by proof. In reply to
the second, I say that in my opinion you did clearly
exonerate yourself from all culpability, and it was so
generally understood at the time. Yours truly,
W. D. M. Howard.
Geo. Hyde, Esq."
"San Francisco, August 4, 1855,
Dear Sir : Your note dated 25th June last, came
to hand a day or two ago; this must be my apology for
the delay occasioned. With regard to the charges
preferred against you in 1847, I will take the liberty of
saying, that it was well understood then, that they were
preferred by a few individuals merely for the purpose
of gratifying personal animosity. Some nine or ten
charges were forwarded to the Council by the Governor,
only two of which underwent an examination ; and the
committee who conducted the prosecution of them
had every latitude allowed them, not only by the Coun-
cil but by you also. The first charge was commenced on
the 25th Octo., and concluded on the eveningof the first
Nov. 1847. Some four or five evenings of a couple of
hours each being the time employed. From this last date,
until about the third of December following, when the
second charge was entertained and concluded at one
36
562 NO BLAME ATTACHED TO MR. HYDE.
sitting, no meeting of the Council, as examiners, was
held. After that, the whole affair was viewed as a
farce by the public ; was considered as abandoned, in-
asmuch as frequent meetings were called at your solici-
tation, to which the Committee prosecuting the charges
invariably failed to attend. It was about the first of
March, 1848, when two members of the Council, in a
secret manner, on their own responsibility, occasioned
by personal feeling (originating in a matter entirely
foreign to the matter of the charges,) opened a corres-
pondence with Gov. Mason, alleging that the charges
were admitted by you to be true, and hence recom-
mended your removal, which the Gov^ refused to do.
As a matter of justice to you I will add that I was
present at all the meetings and I distinctly declare that
you never made any admission of the kind whatever ;
the character of the testimony was such as clearly ex-
culpated you from all blame. To your interrogatory
then, is it true that either one or both of the charges
examined before the Council were held to be es-
tablished by proof ? — I declare that it is not true. I
distinctly and positively assert that you maintained your
innocence, and vindicated your fair fame throughout
the whole affair, and that too by all the testimony taken.
I am, sir, with sincere respect.
Very truly yours, &c.,
W. S. Clark.
To George Hyde, San Francisco."
INHABITANTS OF VERBA BUENA. 563
Eight or ten years since I prepared a list of the
inhabitants of Yerba Buena, Mission Dolores and
Presidio in 1846, which comprised the district of San
Francisco, and the same was published in the Morning
Call. Shortly after the article appeared in print I met
the late Hall McAllister on Montgomery street one
forenoon, and he stopped me to say that he had read the
article referred to in the Call, and had filed among his
legal archives three of the newspapers as part of his
large record of legal matters. The same are doubtless
now in existence as part of the mass of records, the ac-
cumulation of many years of his brilliant and success-
ful practice in the profession that he loved.
The following is a similar list of names in the three
villages above named on the day in July, 1846, that the
Mexican Eagle was displaced by the Stars and Stripes,
by Captain Montgomery of the United States Navy.
In the preparation of the names of the early residents
at the time the government was changed, I have been
very careful to omit none of the people that lived in
the district; and I have revised the published list : —
VERBA BUENA.
Nathan Spear (retired from business on account of
ill health), Mrs. Nathan Spear, two servants.
Mrs. Susanna Martinez Hinckley, and one servant.
William M. Smith, Auctioneer.
Captain Eliab Grimes, Capitalist.
564 INHABITANTS OF VERBA BUENA.
John Vioget, Maria Montero, his wife, two child-
ren and one servant.
Jose Venavidas.
William A. Leidesdorff, merchant and real estate
owner, and one servant.
Jack Fuller, Chona Linares, his wife, two daugh-
ters, two sons and two servants.
W. D. M. Howard (merchant), and three servants.
Henry Melius, Merchant.
Wm. R. Basham, Clerk to Melius & Howard.
Seregee (young Russian), clerk to Leidsdorff
Jose Jesus Noe, last alcalde under the Mexican
regime.
Dona Guadalupe, wife of Jose Jesus Noe, four
sons and two daughters (who were all small children)
and four servants.
Miguel Noe, son of ex-Alcalde Noe.
Francisco Ramirez (Chilean), Trader.
Trinidad Moya (Mexican), Trader.
Grigorio Escalante (Manila), Baker.
Juana Briones de Miranda, first settler in Yerba
Buena, who is still living on her large tract of land in
Mayfield, Santa Clara County, at the advanced age of
four-score and ten years ; two sons and three daughters
— small children.
Polinario Miranda (husband of the former), and
three servants.
Presentacion Miranda de Ridley and one servant.
Robert Ridley (husband of the former), Lessee of
Violet's Hotel.
INHABITANTS OF VERBA BUENA. 565
John Evans, wife, three sons and three daughters.
Tomas Miranda.
John Baywood (known by the name of John
Cooper), wife and son.
John SuHivan, wood cutter and dealer, and two
very young brothers,
Peter Sherbeck and wife.
R. M. Sherman.
WilHam Heath Davis (merchant), and two servants.
Josiah Belden.
Henry Neal, clerk to Melius & Howard.
George Glidding, formerly clerk to bark " Tasso."
Henry Richardson, formerly clerk to bark " Ster-
ling."
Josefa Venavidas, daughter of Mrs Vioget.
Josefa Montero, sister of Mrs. Vioget.
H. F. Teschemacher, clerk to Henry Melius' bark
" Tasso," and afterwards agent for the same vessel.
Joseph P. Thompson, clerk to Melius & Howard.
Mrs. John C. Davis, wife of John C, Davis.
John C. Davis (and one servant), William J. Rey-
nolds (Chino), John Rose, John Finch (tinker), ship-
wrights, housebuilders and blacksmiths.
Benito Diaz (Custoni- House officer), wife, three
small children and mother-in-law.
John Thompson, Blacksmith.
Mrs. Montgomery ; afterwards married Talbot H.
Green alias Paul Geddes.
Charles E. Pickett.
566 INHABITANTS OF VERBA BUENA.
George Denecke, Baker.
Vicente Miramontes, wife and six children.
Francisca Vidal.
Charles Meyer, clerk to Leidesdorff.
Rafael Vidal.
Francisco el Negro, Cook (Peruvian.)
John el Negro, Pastryman.
Carmel Tadeo, Washerwoman.
Bias Tadeo.
Bias Angelino, Wood Cutter.
Juan Agramon, Wood Cutter.
Juan Bernal and Chona Soto, bis wife.
Victor Prudon and Teodosia Boronda, his wife,
Marcella Boronda, sister of Mrs. Prudon.
Antonio Ortega and Chica Garcia, his wife.
Antonio Buhan (Peruvian), Gambler.
Mary Bennett, husband and four children.
Daniel Sill, Miller and Hunter.
Charles Clein, Proprietor of Saloon.
Alexander Leavett, Carpenter.
Juan Lara, Shoemaker.
A. A. Andrews, builder, and Rosalia Haro, his wife,
two children and one servant.
Thos. Smith (Smith & Co.), Proprietor of Saloon.
Maria Antonia Valle de Dawson, owner of land
near the Blucher Rancho.
Guadalupe Berreyesa, grantee to a large tract of
land.
J. H. Brown, Saloon-keeper.
i
INHABITANTS OF MISSION DOLORES. 567
William Johnson, owner of schooners in the bay
of San Francisco.
John Ackerman, clerk to W. A. Leidesdorft.
MISSION DOLORES.
Padre Real, of the Mission San Francisco de Asis.
Francisco Guerrero, Sub-Prefect of the District of
San Francisco.
Josefa Haro, wife of Francisco Guerrero, two sons
and two servants.
Francisco de Haro,' Ex-Alcalde.
Miliana Sanchez, wife of Francisco de Haro.
Francisco de Haro, Jun.
Ramon de Haro.
Natividad Haro.
Prudencio and Alonzo Haro, small children and
two servants of the household.
Tiburcio Vasquez, mayor-domo. Mission Dolores.
Alvina Hernandez, wife of Tiburcio Vasquez, eight
children and two servants.
Candelario Valencia. (Valencia street is named after
him.)
Paula Sanchez, wife of Candelario Valencia, and
two servants.
Eustacio Valencia.
Jose Ramon Valencia.
Lucia Valencia.
Tomasa Valencia.
Francisco Valencia.
568 INHABITANTS OF MISSION DOLORES.
Jose Jesus Valencia and Julia Sanchez, his wife.
Rosa Valencia.
Amadeo Valencia.
Catalina Valencia, second wife of Jose Jesus Noe.
Leandro Galindo and Dominga Sotelo, his wife.
Nazario Galindo.
Josefa Galindo.
Seferino Galindo.
Benerito Galindo.
Henaro Galindo.
Maria Galindo.
Antonia Galindo.
Manuela Galindo.
Chino Sanchez and Jesus Alvisu, his wife, five
small daughters.
Isabel Sanchez.
Jose Gomez and Eusavia Galindo, his wife.
Guadalupe Gomez, female.
Bernardino Garcia, married to Mrs. Hilaria Read.
Hilaria Sanchez Read, of Read's rancho in Marin
County.
John Read, of Read's rancho, Marin County.
Hilarita Read, of Read's rancho, Marin County.
Carmel Cibrian de Bernal.
Bruno Valencia and Bernarda Duarte, his wife,
and four children.
Militon Valencia.
Felipe Soto.
Jose Santa Maria, Secretary to Sub-Prefect
Guerrero.
INHABITANTS OF MISSION AND PRESIDIO. 569
Agustiii Davila and Jesus Feliz, his wife, and two
children.
Agustin Davila, Junior.
Tutiana Avila.
Dolores Avila.
Magin Feliz.
Torivio Tanforan (Peruvian) and Maria Valencia,
his wife, and seven children.
Jose Cornelio Bernal, husband of Carmel Cibrian.
Jose Jesus Bernal.
Angel Alvisu and Josefa Sotelo, his wife.
Ysidora Jalapa.
Rafaela Jalapa.
Mariano Jalapa.
PRESIDIO.
Dona Guadalupe Briones de Miramontes.
Candelario Miramontes, her husband.
Ygnacio Miramontes.
Rodulfo Miramontes.
Alsiano Miramontes.
Raymundo Miramontes.
Jose de los Santos Miramontes.
Juan Jose Miramontes.
Doiia Luz Briones, who is still living at the great
age of mt)re than a century ; with her sister Dona
Juana Briones de Miranda, at Mayfield, Santa Clara
County.
Dolores Miramontes.
570 INHABITANTS OF PRESIDIO.
Ramona Miramontes. .
Manuel Pefia (an old soldier of the Mexican army)
and Guadalupe, his wife.
Dolores Pena.
Maria de Los Angeles Pena.
Carmel Pena
Maria Peiia.
Antonia Peiia.
Francisco Pefia.
Husevio Soto, (an old artilleryman of the Spanish
and Mexican armies, with the rank of Corporal) and
Martina Mendoza, his wife and three children.
Marta Soto.
Francisco Soto.
Joaquin Pena (an old soldier of the Spanish and
Mexican armies, with the rank of Corporal) and Eusta-
quia Mojica, his wife.
Jose de la Cruz Pefia.
CHAPTER LX.
First Chinaman in California — Second Arrival of Chinese — Observations by Mr.
McDermett — Observations by Mr. Leeds — Chinese Encroachment — Chinese
Immorality — Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson's Regiment of one thousand New
York Volunteer Soldiers, a portion of the United States Army of Occupation,
Arrives at San Francisco in the month of March, 1847 — Roster of the com-
missioned and non-commissioned Officers of the Regiment.
I have mentioned previously that I was on my
way from Santa Cruz when the national, standard was
hoisted on the 8th of July, 1846. I arrived only a day or
two after the occurrence. My name appears on the
list of the inhabitants of Yerba Buena on the day the
American flag waved over the little village for the
first time, this place having been my residence for
many years.
Several years anterior to 1838 there was a China-
man on board the brig " Bolivar," Captain Nye, as a
servant in the cabin, and he remained on the coast dur-
ing the stay of the vessel. Probably this man of the
Celestial Empire was the first that visited California
until the commencement of 1848.
The American brig " Eagle " arrived here from
Canton, China, on the 2d of February, 1848, with two
Chinamen and a Chinawoman, who were looked upon
as curiosities by some of the inhabitants of the grow-
ing town of San Francisco, who had never seen people
of that nationality before. During the winter of 1848
and 1849 it was observable that Chinamen were multi-
572 SECOND ARRIVAL OF CHINESE.
plying by immigration rapidly. The Mongolians soon
availed themselves, in the new field, of their pro rata
of the large business that was being done here during
the gold excitement. At that particular time there was
no expression of alarm from the people of San Fran-
cisco that the Chinese would overrun the city of the bay
and the State of California.
In 1 88 1 and 1882 while I was in the capital of the
nation I became acquainted with John McDermett, a
resident and capitalist of Washington, and I frequented
his home, and in those visits I made to him and his
family, he and myself would often get into discussions
over the unacceptable immigration from China to the
State of California. He thought, from a humane stand-
point, the people of California were, as a class, too
harsh and severe in their treatment of the Mongolians.
Of course, during our arguments I opposed all sugges-
tions in behalf of the Chinamen, but I could never con-
vince him that their presence was demoralizing to the
youthfulpeopleoftheyoung State, and that they had been
extracting millions of gold continuosly for many years.
About three years ago Mr. McDermett came to Cali-
fornia for the first time, to visit a married daughter re-
siding in the city, and viewed many points of interest
in the State of perpetual flowers. One day I said to
him that I would be pleased to devote one or two days
in showing him the city. We visited Chinatown, and
I took him into basements and cellars which were in-
habited by Chinese, and the smell from the filth that
OBSERVATIONS BY MR. MCDERMETT. 573
surrounded their habitations was so offensive that he
and I were glad to retreat to the street above us and
into the pure air. From Washington street I called
my friend's attention to both sides of Stockton street,
which were once the residences of capitalists and mer-
chants of the town, which were now populated by the
Mongolians the whole line of the street from California
to south side of Broadway, When we crossed the lat-
ter street, and got out of the Chinese quarters, north-
ward, Mr. McDermett remarked: "This portion of
Stockton street is an American town."
The Eastern tourist became satisfied and con-
vinced that this class of people was injurious to the
prosperity of California, morally and commercially.
I have been favored with the following item upon
the Chinese influence in San Francisco by Mr. S. P.
Leeds, editor of the Commercial Record, which is an
expression of his observation of the detrimental effect
of the Mongolian upon the morality of our population:
" The influx of the Chinese began before 1838, with
a single Mongolian as stated previously by yourself.
It has steadily increased, until now there are probably
several hundred thousand in the United States. At
first, while few in numbers, they were docile, meek and
subservient. They would give the entire sidewalk to
every man of other nationalities whom they met. They
entered into menial services and did the best they
could. Thiy were moderately honest and strictly
attentive to their industries. Bui as ihc ir numbers
574 OBSERVATIONS BY MR. LEEDS.
increased they began to display their natural disposi-
tions, and they passed from petty pilferings to robberies;
from light dissipations to sensualities ; from praise-
worthy neatness to uncleanliness ; from little assaults to
murders ; from willing workers to aribitrary usurpers
of many industries. In this latter case they over-esti-
mated their power, and threatened to quit work in some
factories, unless all white employes should be dis-
charged. This action aroused such a storm of resentful
indignation that they dropped the subject. They
have taken another course and are running factories, in
which only Chinese find employment.
As an illustration- the following incident is narrated.
A manufacturer of bird cages finding that he could
employ Chinese at less wages than he paid white men,
took two or three of them into his factory. After a
while one of them left, under pretence of going to China ;
but recommended his cousin as a good steady fellow to
fill his place, which was given to him. The same
method was adopted by another of them with the same
result. This occurred. several times, as fast as chose
employed had learned the art of making bird cages.
During this time they had found out where the employer
procured his materials and who were his customers.
They started a factory in Chinatown and offered their
cages to the dealers at a great reduction in price from
what they had been paying. ' The manufacturer finding
his sales rapidly falling off, went among his customers
to learn the cause, and discovered that his false economy
FALSE ECONOMY CELESTIAL ENCROACHMENT. 575
in hiring Chinese had ruined his business, and he had
soon after to close it and seek some other occupation.
This will be the final result to all trades in which the
Chinese are given work, for the same reason.
They have the control of the manufacture of cigars,
shoes and slippers ; common clothing ; six or eight
jewelry establishments, several hardware stores, numer-
ous express wagons ; and have recently invaded the
higher branches of commerce by becoming exporters
of American products to China markets : and soon no
flour will be shipped there except by them. This de-
prives the mill men of a profitable branch of their
business, which will be more seriously felt when the
Chinese execute their intended purpose of building a
large flouring mill. They have also established a
marine Insurance Company, and will, unless they are
kept out of the country, in time obtain the control of
all branches of business, the same as they have done in
Manila.
Their immorality is of the most iniquitous charac-
ter. They are regardless of female virtue, and take
especial delight in inducing young girls into their prem-
ises for the most flagrant purposes. Their brothels
are boldly open upon some streets, where boys are ruined
for life by visiting those abominable haunts.
Regardless of human life, they would to-day, if
they knew themselves to be powerful enough to escape
the vengeance which should follow the deed, murder
every white man and boy in the city, and only spare
576 CHINESE IMMORALITY.
the women and. girls for a fate worse than death. They
have been a curse to every country where they have
gained a foothold."
Colonel Jonathan D. Stevenson was in command
of the New York regiment of one thousand volunteer
soldiers, which was sent by the United States Govern-
ment to California, with the following officers attached
thereto, namely :
FIELD OFFICERS.
Colonel, J. D. Stevenson.
Lieutenant-Colonel, Henry S. Burton.
INIajor, James A. Hardie.
STAFF OFFICERS.
Surgeon, Alexander Perr)\
Asst. Surgfeon, Robert Murrav.
Asst. Surgeon, William C. Parker.
Captain William G. Macy, Commissar)^
Lieutenant J. C. Bonnycastle, Adjutant.
Captain Joseph L. Folsom, Asst. Quarter-master.
NON'-COMMISSIOXED STAFF.
Sergeant-Major, Alexander C. McDonald.
Quarter-master Sergeant, Stephen Harris.
NEW YORK REGIMENT. 577
Quarter-master Sergeant, Georore G. Belt.
Quarter-master Sergeant, James C. Low.
sutler's department.
Sutler, Samuel W. Haight.
Clerk, James C. L. Wadsworth.
COMPANY A,
Captain, SeymDur G. Steele.
Lieutenant, George S. Penrose.
Lieutenant, Charles B. Young.
Lieutenant, George F. Lemon.
Sergeant, Sherman O. Houghton.
Sergeant, Walter Chipman.
Sergeant, Edward Irwin.
COMPANY B.
Captain, Turner.
Lieutenant, Henry C. Matsell.
Lieutenant, Thomas E. Ketchum.
Lieutenant, E. Gould Buffum.
Sergeant, James Stayton.
Sergeant, Charles C. Scott.
Sergeant, John Wilt.
Sergeant, Charles Richardson.
Sergeant, James D. Denneston.
COMPANY c.
Captain, J. E. Brackett.
Lieutenant, Per Lee R. Theron.
37
578 NEW YORK REGIMENT.
Lieutenant, Thomas J. Roach.
Lieutenant, Charles C. Anderson.
Lieutenant, Wm. R. Tremmels, (Died off Cape
Horn.)
Lieutenant, Georg-e D. Brewerton.
Sergeant, Edmund P. Crosby.
Sergeant, WilHam Johnson.
Sergeant, George Robinson.
COMPANY D.
Captain, Henry M. Naglee.
Lieutenant, George A. Pendleton.
Lieutenant, Hiram W. Theall.
Lieutenant, Joseph C. Morehead.
Sergeant, Aaron Lyons.
Sergeant, William Roach.
Sergeant, Henry J. Wilson.
COMPANY E.
Captain, Nelson Taylor.
Lieutenant, Edward Williams.
Lieutenant, William E. Cuttrell.
Lieutenant, Thomas L. Vermule.
Sergeant, John M. O'Neil.
Sergeant, Henry S. Morton.
Sergeant, James Maneis.
Sergeant, Abraham Van Riper.
COMPANY F.
Captain, Francis J. Lippitt.
Lieutenant, Henry Storrow Carnes.
NEW YORK REGIMENT. 579
Lieutenant, William H. Weirick.
Lieutenant, John M. Huddart.
Sergeant, James Queen.
Sergeant, Thomas Hipwood.
Sergeant, James Mulvey.
Sergeant, John C. Pulis.
COMPANY G.
Captain, Matthew R. Stevenson.
Lieutenant, John McH. HolHngsworth.
Lieutenant, Jeremiah Sherwood.
Lieutenant, William H. Smith.
Sergeant, Walter Taylor.
Sergeant, William B. Travers.
Sergeant, James Mehan.
Sergeant, John Connell.
Sergeant, George Jackson.
CONPANY II.
Captain, John B. Frisbie.
Lieutenant, Ed\Yard Gilbert.
Lieutenant, John S. Day.
Sergeant, Eleazer Frisbie.
Sergeant, William Grow.
Sergeant, Henry A. Schoolscraft.
Sergeant, James Winne.
COMPANY J.
Captain, William E. Shannon.
Lieutenant, Henry Magee.
580 REGIMENT AT RIO JANEIRO.
Lieutenant, Palmer B. Hewlett.
Sergeant, Joseph Evans.
Sergeant, Joshua S. Vincent.
Sergeant, B. Logan.
COMPANY K.
Captain, Kimball H. Dimmick.
Lieutenant, John S. Norris.
Lieutenant, George C. Hubbard.
Lieutenant, Roderick M. Morrison.
Sergeant, Jackson Sellers.
CHAPLAIN,
Rev. T. M. Leavenworth.
The regiment sailed from New York on Septem-
ber the 26th, 1846, in three transports of about eight
hundred tons burden each, namely : "Thomas H. Per-
kins," Captain James Arthur, (fornierly of the " Cali-
fornia," a hide ship) ; ship "Loo Choo," Captain Hatch^
(formerly of the " Barnstable," also a hide ship), and
ship " Susan Drew," Captain , for San Fran-
cisco. The troops were equally divided among the
vessels. After leaving New York, the three ships
soon parted company and were out of sight of each
other until their arrival at Rio Janeiro, where they re-
mained ten days.
On Colonel Stevenson's arrival at Rio Janeiro, he
found an American naval squadron in port. While he
was preparing to salute the squadron's flag, the captain
COMPLICATIONS AT RIO JANEIRO. 58 1
of the port came on board and asked Col. Stevenson
if he was intending to salute the Brazilian flag. The
Colonel replied that he was not, but was preparing to
salute the flag of the squadron. Then the captain of
the port asked if he would exchange salutes, to which
the Colonel replied he would do so with pleasure.
After the salute to the American flaor was fired,
the Colonel sent Captain Folsom to the flag-ship of the
squadron to inform the Commodore that he was in com-
mand of the New York regiment on its way to Califor-
nia ; and also, that he intended to salute the Brazilian
flag. The Commodore said that there was no inter-
course between the Brazilian government, and the
American Minister and himself. That as Colonel
Stevenson was in command of his regiment, he could
do what seemed best, but the relations were some-
what strained between our representatives and that
government. When Captain Folsom returned, Colonel
Stevenson sent an officer on shore, to the captain of
the port to inform him that he declined to fire the
promised salute to the Brazilian government. The
justification of declining to salute the Brazilian flag was
the severe criticism which had been passed upon certain
imprudent remarks of Minister Wise the day before
Folsom visited the flag-ship. Wise was the god-father
at the christening on board the flag-ship, of a child born
in the fleet of transports during their voyage to Rio
Janeiro, and spoke of the infant being greater as to
nationality than the child-princess, who had been
christened but a short time previous at the Palace.
582 STEVENSON ADDRESSES HIS SOLDIERS.
Probably there was unpleasantness between minister
and government, anterior to the christening incident.
The Imperial Council met and passed a resolution to
order the transports, as well as other American ves-
sels, out of port. Colonel Stevenson, after his ships
dropped anchor, issued a general order to the regiment
that one-third of the men should have liberty on shore
one day ; and on the two next succeeding days one-
third should enjoy a similar privilege. Colonel Steven-
son had taken up his quarters on shore and when that
resolution was passed, he was informed of the fact by
an English merchant.
When he heard this he went back to his fleet to
countermand the order, to avoid any collision between
the soldiers and the citizens ; and he informed the men of
the probable difficulty. He instructed the companies to
prepare themselves to be ready for the emergency, every-
thing must be in perfect order, and perhaps the next
time they went on shore, it would be with fixed
bayonets. As he stated this, the men went aloft and
manned the yards and cheered him. He visited the
other two ships and countermanded his order, giving
the same reasons for doing so. He was also cheered
from the yards by them ; all of the men being eager
for a fight. Colonel Stevenson went on shore, and as
he landed on the mole he was met by many thousand
people and was asked the reason of the cheering on the
three ships. He stated the above mentioned facts, and
told the citizens if the resolution which was passed
REGIMENT AT SAN FRANCISCO. 583
should be enforced, he would land one thousand men
with fixed bayonets, and they would have one thousand
men worse than so many devils turned loose on them,
and also have the American naval squadron's batteries
opened upon the city, under which fire the Emperor's
palace would inevitably be destroyed. But the Imper-
ial resolution was never put in force. The Commo-
dore seeing the commotion on the mole went on shore
to ascertain its cause and there thanked Colonel Steven-
son for his action in the matter.
In leaving Rio Janeiro the " Perkins " sailed directly
for her destination, and arrived on the 6th of March,
1847, one hundred and sixty-five days from New York,
with the Colonel of the regiment and her pro rata of
the soldiers. After departing from Rio Janeiro the
" Loo Choo " and " Susan Drew " stopped at Valpa-
raiso. Both vessels reached San Francisco in the same
month, but after the arrival of the " Perkins."
The voyage of the fleet from the Atlantic to the
Pacific oceans was without any material interruptions
to mar the comforts of the loads of humanity, who
enjoyed their sea life of thousands of miles in vessels
under sail. These troops were the first that ever left
the Atlantic coast of the United States to go so great
a distance to a foreign country, to uphold the flag of
their nation.
CHAPTER LXI.
Colonel Stevenson's Arrival at San Francisco — Distribution of Troops — Mormon
Soldiers — Tranquility of California — Good Work of Commodore Stockton —
Arrival of Transports — Colonel Stevenson much Esteemed and Popular —
Death of his Son, Captain Stevenson — Author's Visit to Mount Vernon —
Patriotic Women of the United States — Isaac Williams — Homes of the
Hacendados.
When Colonel Stevenson reached San Francisco
he found orders awaiting him from General Kearney
for the distribution of the companies of the regiment,
which were as follows : Sonoma one, Presidio two,
Monterey two, Santa Barbara three, and Los Anoreles
two companies. On the arrival of these companies at
Los Angeles, they found a battalion of five hundred
Mormon soldiers, and the latter were turned over to
Colonel Stevenson's command. *' In July the battalion
was disbanded. A new company of Mormons was
organized under Captain Davis, and sent to San
Diego, and remained there until April or May, 1848,
when it was mustered out of service. Colonel Stevenson
took command at Monterey where he established his
headquarters. Early in June, 1847, he received orders
from Washington to take command from Santa Barbara
southward, with headquarters at Los Angeles, to the
line of the boundary of the Territory newly acquired
by conquest, during the pendency of diplomatic discus-
sion over the terms of the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo,
which was not ratified until August, 1848. In August,
TRANQUILITY OF CALIFORNIA. 585
September and October, 184S, the entire re^^iment was
mustered out of service, and the soldiers became citizens
of the new country, and were living under their own flag.
When Stevenson arrived he found California in a
state of tranquillity, the result of the good work of
Commodore Stockton ; a long account of which I have
given. There is no doubt whatever that Colonel
Stevenson, arriving as he did soon after the battle of
the river of San Gabriel, which stamped the naval
officer as the conqueror and hero of the war, demon-
strated to the Californians the endless power and re-
sources of the United States, to perpetuate its authority
over the conquered country.
After the disembarcation of the regiment, the three
ships departed for China, for cargoes of Chinese mer-
chandise for New York and other Eastern ports.
The ship " Brutus," Captain Adams, was chartered
by the government to transport the stragglers of the
regiment, who had been left behind, and also stores for
the command at San Francisco. She sailed from New
York for her destination and arrived in April, 1847.
The ship " Isabella" sailed from Philadelphia on
August 1 6th, 1847, with a detachment of one hundred
soldiers, and arrived at California on February i8th,
1848 ; at the same time that the ship " Sweden "
arrived with another detachment of soldiers.
Before and after war was declared between the
United States and Mexico, a journey to California
overland was attended with dangers. The person mak-
586 VISIT TO MOUNT VERNON.
ing the journey would feel as if exiled to some foreign
land. It took from four to six months to accomplish it.
Colonel Stevenson, durlnof his longf residence in
California, has invariably won the respect and esteem
of his fellow citizens by his manly and upright line of
action. All that he has done has been prompted by a
fixed principle of honor, probity and integrity. He
is still in full possession of his mental faculties and exer-
cises his mind more effectually than do many who have
not reached his term of years. He has ever been kind,
courteous and obliging to his friends, and even many
strangers have cause to be grateful for some benevo-
lent action on his part. It is to be hoped that he may
be spared for many years to gladden the hearts of his
friends by his presence among them.
I may here remark that his son, Captain Matthew
R. Stevenson, whom I knew after the arrival of the
regiment, was a high-minded, brave young officer of
the regular army. He died at the time of our civil
war, in 1861, in the service of his country, during that
eventful period of the nation's life.
In the winter of 1881-82, I was at the capital of the
nation. On the morning before Christmas, Mr. James
B. Metcalfe and myself made a trip to the tomb of the
Father of his country (Mount Vernon) to view the in-
teresting relics, that were preserved for our citizens and
those of other nations to look at, as memorials of General
Washington. In nearing the wharf that Washington
used, or the site on which the old one stood in his days,
RELICS OF GENERAL WASIIlXCiTON. ^^y
I observed a tall, stout, well-dressed gentleman looking
at me, while at the same time he approached, and said:
" Are you a Western man from California ?" I replied,
•' Yes." He then asked my name which I told him.
" Oh !" he said, " I was in your stor^ in San Francisco
many times in 1847 ; I was then a lieutenant in
Stevenson's regiment and my name is Hollingsworth.
I will take pleasure in showing you and your friend the
sights of Mount Vernon." Colonel Hollingsworth was
the Superintendent of Mount Vernon at that time.
He went with us to the general's chamber and showed
us the bedstead on which Washington died ; then to
the room which General La Fayette had occupied,
where everything remained just as this noble friend
of liberty and comrade of Washington had left it.
The apartment in which Mrs. Martha Washington
died, was next opened for our inspection, and the
original furniture stood as she had used it. From >
the house we went to the tomb of both the husband
and wife. All of these objects interested us very
much. Col. Hollingsworth presented us with several
relics from trees that were planted by General Wash-
ington's own hands ; for which we were very gratelul
and expressed our thanks, as well as for the courteous
attentions he had bestowed upon us, because I was an
old Californian from the country that he liked, and
which as he remarked to me, he ho[jed to see again.
Many years ago some of the energetic and
patriotic women of the nation formed a company for
588 PATRIOTIC WOMEN OF THE COUNTRY.
purchasing Mount Vernon and many relics, as perma-
nent mementos of Washington, for the people of the
United States.
The property was bought from the descendants of
the historic man for two hundred thousand dollars, by
two hundred thousand women of the country.
Isaac Williams was one of those Americans who
first came to the Department of California, and was
known by the name of Don Julian, from the similarity
in sound of Williams to Julian in the ears of the Cali-
fornians of that time. He gave as one reason of his
coming here that he wanted to see the setting sun
in the furthest West. He became the owner of several
leagues of land and thousands of animals.
In June, 1846, Don Julian came on board my
vessel at San Pedro, and I sold him a large quantity of
goods, the payment for which was to be made in the
following 1847 7natanza. One exceedingly hot day in
August, 1847, I visited Don Julian who was busy
slaughtering cattle for hides and tallow, to meet his
engagements to different supercargoes on the coast. The
hacienda Santa Ana del Chino, containing eight leagues
of land, was situated about thirty miles from where
Pomona is now located. Don Julian's home was built
in the heart of a fertile valley, in which were thirty
thousand horned cattle, sheep and horses. It seemed to
me like a young Mission with American ideas added
to the ancient notions of improvements, I found the
enterprising man in the midst of his matanza, with
HOMES OF HACENDADOS. 589
more than a thousand steers slautrhtered. the work to
be continued until two thousand or more w^ere killed.
I observed with great interest the try-pots bubbling
with the melted tallow and iiuDitcca, the latter, the
delicate fat that lies between the hide and meat of the
animal. He was preparing this to add to the exports
of the hacienda.
His income, say, from two thousand five hundred
steers killed, would be from the tallow and manteca, at
six arrobas to each animal, fifteen thousand arrobas or
twenty-five thousand dollars ; add to this five thousand
dollars for the hides, the amount would be thirty thou-
sand dollars. This is an illustration of the incomes of
the hacendados, proportionate to the number of cattle
they slaughtered at the matansa season ; exclusive of
the sales of cattle, horses, wool and sheep.
The homes of the hacendados were generally large
dwellings, one-story in height, built of adobes, with
very thick walls as a protection against the attacks of
the Indians. The floors in the dwellings of the more
wealthy class were planked, and the rooms were parti-
tioned off in sizes to suit the requirements of the fami-
lies, and furnished with plain, neat furniture, generally
imported from Boston. The homes of the poor, usually
had no flooring except the adobe soil, which had been
stamped and pounded until it was as smooth and hard
as slate, and resembled it in color. These rooms
were warm in winter and cool in summer. The build-
ings were erected on the general plan of the Missions,
590 SOCIAL HOURS AT HACIENDAS.
with broad piazzas ; a court-yard was entered through
a wide passage way, protected by massive wooden
doors.
Many of the hacendados Hved in the towns in the
winter months ; but in the spring of the year their
households moved to their country homes, where they
generally remained until the autumn or close of the
matanza season.
During these times of dwelling at the haciendas,
visits were received from the merchants, supercargoes
and the residents of the towns. They were entertained
in the most hospitable manner, with picnics in the day
time to some picturesque spot on the rancho and in
the evening a family baile was invariably heralded by
the melody of the violin and harp. I have often been
a guest at such gatherings, which were the sweetest
part of my life, and thought these native Californians
of Spanish extraction, were as a rule, as sincere people
as ever lived under the canopy of heaven.
I look back almost two generations ago to those
merry days with pride and joy, at the kindness which I
received and the manliness and simplicity of the
welcome of the fathers of families, and the womanly
deportment of their wives and daughters, and their
innocent amusements.
CHAPTER LXII.
Missions aiid their Wealth— I lacendados and their Property— Downfall of the
Missions — Cattle, Horses and Sheep in the Department of California.
When I was at the port of San Luis Obispo, in the
bark " Louisa," in the year 1831, the Mission of that
name was wealthy, with sixty thousand head of cattle
and thousands of sheep and horses. The great wealth
of the Missions, while under Spanish and Mexican
control, in cattle, horses and sheep, will be shown by the
following enumeration of their live stock, before and
after their secularization — before and after the year
1830.
Mission Sonoma: 30,000 cattle and 1,000 horses
and mares. The stock on the rancho Suscol before
mentioned (see page 30) belonged to the Mission.
Mission of Santa Clara : 65,000 cattle, 30,000
sheep and 4,000 horses and mares.
Mentioninof this Mission, recalls to my mind a
transaction in hides and tallow, with the Fathers Mer-
cado and Muro, in my earlier dealings with them in
September, 1844, which showed that the Missions
acted in unison with each other. I received from
Father Mercado of the Santa Clara Mission, a letter to
Father Muro of Mission of San Jose, requesting him
to deliver to me two hundred hides, which he did, as
part payment for some goods I had sold the former. I
592 MISSIONS AND THEIR WEALTH.
had not pressed the matter at all ; but he said it was
the same as if he had paid for them himself.
Mission San Juan Bautista : More than 60,000
cattle, 2,000 horses and mares and 20,000 sheep.
Mission San Antonio : Don Jose Abrigo, admin-
istrator in 1833 and 1834; 10,000 cattle, 500 horses
and mares, 10,000 sheep. There were 1,000 Indians
at the Mission.
Mission San Miguel : 35,000 cattle, 1,000 horses
and mares and 20,000 sheep.
Soledad (Mission): 25,000 cattle, 1,000 horses
and mares and 10,000 sheep.
La Purisima Concepcion (Mission): 20,000 cattle,
1,000 horses and mares and 15,000 sheep.
Mission Santa Ynez : 20,000 cattle, 1,500 horses
and mares and 10,000 sheep.
Mission San Fernando: 50,000 cattle, 1,500
horses and mares and 20,000 sheep.
Mission San Gabriel : 80,000 cattle, 3,000 horses
and mares and 30,000 sheep.
Mission San Luis Rey : 60,000 cattle, 2,000
horses and mares and 20,000 sheep.
Mission San Juan Capistrano : 20,000 cattle,
1,000 horses and mares and 10,000 sheep.
Missionof San Diego : 15,000 cattle, 1,000 horses
and mares and 20,000 sheep.
Mission of Santa Barbara : 20,000 cattle, 1,000
horses and mares and 20,000 sheep.
Mission San Buena Ventura: 25,000 cattle, 1,500
horses and mares and 10,000 sheep.
WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 593
The following is a list of the solid men of the
department, anterior to and after the change of govern-
ment.
Francisco P. Pacheco : Ranchos San Felipe and
San Luis Gonzales, about 90,000 acres of land; 14,-
000 cattle, 500 horses and mares and 15,000 sheep.
That rich hacendado was a large buyer of merchandise,
and I sold many goods to him in 1844 and 1845. He
hauled the hides and tallow from his hacienda, a dis-
tance of sixty miles, to the embarcadero of Santa Clara,
now the town of Alviso.
David Spence : Rancho Buena Esperanza, 25,-
000 acres of land ; 4,000 head of cattle, 500 horses and
mares.
Juan Malarin: Ranchos Zanjones, Guadalupe, Cor-
reos and Chualar, 8 leagues of land ; 6,000 cattle, 200
horses and mares, and 2,000 sheep.
James Watson : Rancho San Benito, 2 leagues of
land; 2,000 cattle, 100 horses and mares, and 1,000
sheep.
Teodoro Gonzales : Rancho SanCenobio or Rincon
de la punta del Monte ; 5,000 cattle and 300 horses
and mares.
Estevan de la Torre : Rancho Escarpines, two
leagues of land ; 1,600 cattle and 150 horses and mares.
Estevan Monrass : Rancho Laguna Seca, 3 leagues
of land ; 3,000 cattle, and 200 horses and mares.
Feliciano Soberanes : Ranchos Ex Mission Soledad
and San Lorenzo ; 4,000 cattle, 2,000 sheep and 300
3S
594 WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT.
horses and mares. This land was the old Mission
Soledad and pursuant to the law of secularization was
sold by order of the government. After the arrival of a
Bishop in California, he called on Senor Soberanes,
who was ill at the time, and requested him to give back
to the Church the property above named — ^an advisable
act, if he, Soberanes, wanted to save his soul. The
old hacendado replied to the Reverend Father, that
he had decided to leave the land to his heirs and he
must decline his request.
Charles Walters : Rancho Toro, 4 leagues of land ;
3,000 cattle. 2,000 sheep, 150 horses and mares.
Sebastian Rodriquez : Rancho Bolsa del Pajaro, 2
leagues of land ; 2,000 cattle, and 100 horses and
mares.
Jose Amesti : Rancho Los Corralitos, 4 leagues of
land ; 5,000 cattle, 300 horses and mares, and 2,000
sheep.
Juan Antonio Vallejo : Rancho Pajaro, 4 leagues
of land ; 4,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares.
W. E. P. Hartnell : Rancho Alisal, 2 leagues of
land; 2,500 cattle and 200 horses and mares.
James Stokes: Rancho de las Vergeles ; 2,200
cattle and 100 horses and mares.
Jose Rafael Gonzales (Pintito) : Rancho San
Miguelito de Trinidad, 5 leagues of land ; 4,500 cattle,*
and 200 horses and mares.
Juan Wilson : Rancho Guilicos, 4 leagues of land ;
3,000 cattle, and 500 horses and mares.
WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 595
Government Rancho Nacional : in Monterey Valley;
6 leaoues of land ; 15,000 cattle, and 200 horses and
mares.
Santiago and Jose Ramon Estrada : Rancho Buena
Vista, 3 leag^ues of land ; 2,000 cattle, and 200 horses
and mares.
Joaquin Estrada : Rancho Santa Margarita, 6
leagues of land; 4,000 cattle and 300 horses and mares
and 2,000 sheep.
Jose Simeon Castro : Rancho Bolsa Nueva y
Moro Cojo, 8 leagues of land (the present site of the
city of Castroville) ; 6,000 cattle and 500 horses and
mares.
Francisco Rico : Rancho San Bernardo, 3 leagues
of land ; 3,000 cattle, and 100 horses and mares.
Jose Abrigo : owner of the following ranches : —
Punta Pinos, i league of land, now the present site of
" Pacific Grove;" Noche Buena, near the Hotel Del
Monte, 2 leagues ; Sausito, i league and San Fran-
cisquito, 3 leagues. Those ranchos contained 4,000
cattle, 200 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep.
Juan Anzar: Rancho Los Aromitasy Agua Caliente,
3 leagues of land ; 4,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares
and 4,000 sheep.
Charles Walters: Rancho Tularcito ; 1,000 cattle
and 50 horses and mares.
William G. Dana : Rancho Nipoma, 32,728 acres
of land ; 6,000 cattle, 500 horses and mares and 10,-
000 sheep.
596 WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT.
Joaquin and Jose A. Carrillo : Rancho Lompoc,
38,335 acres ; 2,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares and
i,oOQ sheep.
Salvio Pacheco : Rancho Monte Diablo, 18,000
acres of land ; 3,500 cattle, 300 horses and mares and
4,000 sheep.
Henry D. Fitch : Rancho Sotoyome, 1 1 leagues
of land; 14,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 10,-
000 sheep.
John A. Sutter : Rancho New Helvetia, 1 1 leagues
of land; 4,000 cattle, 800 horses and mares and 10,000
sheep.
William A. Richardson : Rancho Saucelito, 19,571
acres of land; 2,800 cattle and 300 horses and mares.
Rafael Garcia : Ranchos Tomales and Baulinas,
2 leagues of land; 5,000 cattle and 150 horses and
mares.
Ygnacio Pacheco : Rancho San Jose, 6,660 acres of
land ; 3,300 cattle and 400 horses and mares.
John Marsh : Rancho Los Mejanos, 4 leagues of
land ; 5,000 cattle, 500 horses and mares, and 5,000
sheep.
Tomas Pacheco and Agustin Alvisu : Rancho
Potrero de los Cerritos, 3 leagues of land ; 4,000 cat-
tle, 200 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep.
Anastacio Carrillo : Rancho Punta de la Concep-
cion, 24,992 acres of land ; 4,000 cattle and 500 horses
and mares.
Ex-Alcalde Jose Jesus Noe : Rancho San Miguel,
1 league of land; 2,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares.
WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 597
Hilaria Sanchez Read: Rancho Tamalpais, 2
leagues of land ; 2,000 cattle, 200 horses and mares and
1,000 sheep.
Juan Temple : Rancho Los Cerritos, 5 leagues of
land ; 14,000 cattle, 5,000 sheep and 1,000 horses and
mares.
Ricardo Vejar : Rancho San Jose, 22,720 acres of
land; 8,000 cattle and 600 horses and mares.
Abel Stearns : Rancho Alamitos, 6 leagues of land,
and other ranchos, amounting to many thousand acres;
30,000 cattle, 2,000 horses and mares, and 10,000
sheep.
Juan Abila : rancho El Niguel, 4 leagues of land ;
9,000 cattle and 500 horses and mares.
Pio Pico and Andres Pico : Rancho Los Coyotes,
56,980 acres of land ; in Los Angeles county; 10,000
cattle, 1,500 horses and mares, and 5,000 sheep ; also
ranchos Santa Margarita, Los Flores and San Mateo,
in San Diego county, with many thousand acres of
land; 10,000 cattle, 2,000 horses and mares and 15,-
000 sheep.
Carlos Antonio Carillo : Rancho Sespe, 6 leagues
of land ; 5,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 5,000
sheep.
Ygnacio del Valle : Rancho Camulos, 22 leagues
of land ; 5,000 cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 5,000
sheep.
Manuel Dominguez: Rancho SanP edro, 10 leagues
of land ; 8,000 cattle, 1,500 horses and mares and 5,000
sheep.
598 WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT.
Bernardo Yorba : Ranchos Santiago de Santa Ana,
1 1 leagues of land ; La Sierra, 4 leagues : El Rincon, i
league; those ranchos in all contained 11,000 cat-
tle, 1,500 horses and mares and 8,000 sheep.
Agustin Machado : Rancho La Ballona, 13,920
acres of land ; 10,000 cattle and 600 horses and mares.
Julio Verdugo : Rancho Los Verdugos, 8 leagues
of land; 5,000 cattle and 500 horses and mares.
John Roland and William Workman ; Rancho La
Puente, 48,790 acres of land ; 5,000 cattle, 500 horses
and mares and 5,000 sheep.
Jose Sepulveda : Rancho San Joaquin, 1 1 leagues
of land ; 14,000 cattle and 3,000 horses and mares.
Jose Antonio Aguirre : Rancho San Pedro, 2
leagues of land; 3,700 cattle.
Jose Loreto and Juan Sepulveda : Rancho Los
Palos Verdes, 31,600 acres of land; 5,000 cattle, i.ooo
horses and mares and 5,000 sheep.
Nazario Dominguez : Rancho San Pedro, 2
leagues of land ; 5,000 cattle and 300 horses and mares.
Ygnacio Machado : Rancho Ballona, 13,920 acres
of land ; 3,600 cattle and 200 horses and mares.
Antonio Maria Lusi'o : Rancho San Antonio, 1 1
leagues ; and Chino, 6 leagues of land ; 30,000 cattle
and 1,500 horses and mares.
Jose Maria Lugo : Rancho San Antonio; 3,000 cat-
tle and 500 horses and mares.
Vicente Lugo : Rancho San Antonio ; 4,000 cattle
and 400 horses and mares.
WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 599
Tomas Yorba : Rancho Santiaj^o de Santa Ana, 8
leagues of land ; 6,000 cattle, 400 horses and mares and
4,000 sheep,
Teodosio Yorba : Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana,
7 leagues of land ; 4,800 cattle and 500 horses and
mares.
Tomas A. Sanchez : Rancho La Cienega ; 2,000
cattle, 1,000 horses and mares and 15,000 sheep. This
hacendado was Sheriff of Los Anofeles county from
i860 to 1868.
Jose Noriega and Robert Livermore : Rancho Los
Positas, 2 leagues of land ; 2,000 cattle, 200 horses and
mares and 2,000 sheep.
Plujencio and Mariano Higuera: Rancho Aqua
Caliente, 2 leagues of land; 3,500 cattle, 350 horses
and mares and 4,000 sheep.
Antonio Suiiol : Rancho El Valle de San Jose, 51,-
573 acres of land ; 6.600 cattle, 500 horses and mares
and 5,000 sheep.
Agustin Bernal : Rancho El Valle de San Jose, 4,-
000 cattle, 400 horses and mares and 4,000 sheep.
Juan Bernal : Rancho El V^alle de San Jose ; 2,300
cattle, 200 horses and mares and 2,000 sheep.
Tiburcio Vasquez : Rancho Corral de Tierra, i
league of land; 2, 100 cattle and 200 horses and mares ;
in San Mateo county.
P>ancisco Sanchez : Rancho San Pedro, 2 leagues
of land; in San Mateo county ; 2,000 catde and 200
horses and mares.
6oO WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT.
Joaquin Ruiz : Rancho La Bolsa Chico, 2 leagues
of land ; 2,400 cattle and 500 horses and mares.
Jose Antonio Yorba : Rancho Santiago de Santa
Ana, 2 leagues of land; 3,200 cattle and 300 horses
and mares.
Ramon Yorba : Rancho Santiago de Santa Ana, 2
leagues of land ; 2,500 cattle and 400 horses and mares.
Macedonio Aguilar : Rancho La Ballona, 2 leagues
of land ; 4,800 cattle, 400 horses and mares and 2,000
sheep.
Diego Sepulveda : Rancho Los Palos Verdes, 2
leagues of land ; 2,300 cattle and 300 horses and mares.
Francisco Sepulveda : Rancho San Vicente, 38,-
000 acres of land ; 5,000 cattle and 500 horses and
mares.
Francisco Ocampo : Rancho San Bartolo, in Los
Angeles Valley ; 8 leagues of land ; 7,000 cattle and
350 horses and mares.
John B. R. Cooper : Rancho Salinas, 3 leagues of
land ; 6,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares: also
Ranches Sur, 2 leagues of land, and Bolsas de Potrero
y Moro Cojo, or La Sagrada Familia, 2 leagues of
land ; 3,000 cattle and 200 hundred horses and mares.
Juan Miguel Anzar and Manuel Larios: Ranchos
Santa Ana, i league, and Ouien Sabe, 6 leagues of
land ; in San Juan Bautista Valley ; 4,000 cattle, 300
horses and mares and 4,000 sheep.
Ygnacio Palomares : Rancho San Jose (Pomona),
2 leagues of land; 3,000 cattle and 500 horses and
mares.
WEALTHY MEN OF THE DEPARTMENT. 6oi
Pedro Abila : Rancho El Niguel, 2 leagues of land,
in Los Angeles Valley ; 3,400 cattle and 300 horses
and mares.
Henrique Abila : Rancho Los Cuerbos, 2 leagues
of land; 2,200 cattle, 300 horses and mares and 2,000
sheep.
Jose Maria Abila : Rancho Los Cucirbos, 2 leagues
of land; 2,000 cattle and 200 horses and mares.
Antonio Ygnacio Abila : Rancho Sausal Redondo,
5 leagues of land; 4,500 cattle and 500 horses.
Andres Pico : Ex-Mission San Fernando, 1 1
leagues of land; 5,000 cattle, and 500 horses and mares.
Some years after the secularization of the Mission of
San Fernando, it became impoverished, and 121,620
acres of its lands were granted to Eulojio de Celis ;
probably Pico became a joint owner with him in the
large tract.
To enumerate all the ranchos in the department,
with the live stock on them, would take too many pages.
I have only mentioned, comparatively, a few or some
of the more important haciendas, to illustrate their
great wealth.
After their downfall, the Missions became destitute
and the lands were granted b)' the authorities of the
department to citizens of the young country. Those
men became stock -raisers, and through the experience
gained by their observations of management by the
Fathers, they succeeded in reinstating the lost riches of
California, which were taken from the missionaries ;
and they even accumulated more than twofold the
6o2 California's riches in cattle.
former wealth of the primitive land. They became ex-
tensive hacendados, and were inspired by the numerous
evidences around them, which remained only as monu-
ments that were fast crumbling away, of the energy,
perseverance and industry of the good Fathers, in their
days of plenty and their acquisition of property.
This they made to enable them to proceed successfully
in the conversion of the aborigines to Christianity,
which was the stimulation of the Fathers' immigration
to this land.
I may have alluded before to the facts contained
in the statement, which leads me to make the assertion,
without fear of a successful contradiction, that the
Department of California previous to and after the ruin
of the Missions, in proportion to the population, was
the richest of any country under Spanish dominion and
inhabited by citizens of Castilian extraction.
There were one thousand and forty-five grants of
ranchos of all sizes made by the governors ; deducting
from that number- two hundred and forty-five (which it
is presumed were not stocked with animals) will leave
eight hundred ranchos, \yhich were probably all stocked ;
averaging 1,500 head qf cattle to each rancho, and
making a total of 1,200,000; this was after the Mis-
sions became poor. There are eighty -seven haciendas
above mentioned, with an average of 5,310 cattle to
each. When, in addition, the horses and sheep are con-
sidered, surely no stronger proof of the assertion as to
the wealth of the Department of California at that
period, could be either required or produced.
CHAPTER LXIII.
James Alexander Forbes — Record of Arrivals from 1774 to 1847 — Estimate of
Exports of Hides and Tallow — Conclusion.
I am indebted to Mr. James Alexander Forbes,
for the following- list of arriv^als and vessels at California
ports from 1774 to 1847. Mr. Forbes has been for
many years past, official goverment translator and
keeper of the Spanish and Mexican Archives in the
United States Surveyor General's office, for the District
of California ; without his aid I could not have obtained
any data concerning the earlier shipping.
He is the son of the well known pioneer, James
A. Forbes, who, during his lifetime, was esteemed and
respected by all who had social and business relations
with him. J. A. Forbes, Jr. was educated in Santa
Clara College, and being a master of several languages,
obtained the position of Official Translator of the laws
of California, in the years 1867, 1868, 1869, 1870; he
has the reputation of being the n,iost accurate translator
and fluent interpreter in the State. His father came
to California in the year 1829; he was British Vice-
Consul for many years. He married a native Califor-
nia lady of Castilian descent ; he was a highly educated
gendeman speaking the English, Spanish aiitl French
languages with great accuracy and fluency ; it was very
entertaining and instructive to listen to his conversa-
604 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
tion. During his consulate, his official acts gave satis-
faction to his government, and his private life was
irreproachable. His death occurred in 1881, at the
ripe age of 79 years ; leaving a family of ten children.
1774-
San Carlos.
Principe, July, 24.
1776. ,
San Carlos.
San Antonio, June 6th.
Principe.
1778.
San Carlos arrives on the coast July 22. Order
for vessels that bring supplies to take back salt, March
8th.
1779.
San Carlos arrives at San Diego Feb. 15.
Princesa and Favorita anchored in the Bay or Port
of San Francisco on the 15th of September, 1779.
The vessels belonged to His Majesty King of Spain
and came on an exploring expedition under command
of Don Ygnacio Ortega. They reached up to 65° and
some minutes north latitude and did not goto 70° north
latitude as ordered because the coast turned to the south.
Garland (Spanish brig) captured by an English man of
war, June 7th, 1779.
1783.
San Carlos, June, 2.
Favorita, July 27.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 605
1784.
Favorita, Spanish man of war, October 25th.
1786.
Spanish Frigate Aranzazu, Feb. i ith, Santa Lucia,
June 7th, Favorita, Sept. 29th, Princesa, Sept. 21st,
Spanish war ships, with materials for Presidio buildings.
Order prohibiting passengers on board vessels to
carry more than 2 pounds of tobacco, October 5th.
1787.
Astrolobe and Bonssole, anchored at Monterey,
with La Perouse, the explorer, April 12th.
Princesa, at Monterey, Feb. 27th.
Aranzazu, January 6th.
Brugula, Jan. 6th, Astrolavio, Jan. 6th, French
vessels.
San Carlos, Sept. 29th.
1788.
San Carlos, Sept. 7th.
Princesa, at Santa Barbara, Oct. 8th.
Frigate Aranzazu, Dec. 21st, came into port and
Mateo Rubio, a soldier, was wounded by the firing of
a cannon.
1789.
Frigate Aranzazu at Santa Barbara, Oct. 2.
6o6 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
I79I.
Aranzazu, August 22d.
Princesa, October 24th ; saw unknown vessel in
distress in Pichilingue Bay.
Princesa (Spanish P>igate) arrived at Loreto with
NaturaHst Jose Longinos Martinez and Jaime Senseve,
Botanist, to make collections for the Museum of Natural
History, October 25th.
Aranzazu (Spanish Frigate), Juan Bautista Matirte,
Captain. He says to the Governor of the Department :
" By last advices from the Court of Madrid, which I
delivered at Nootka, it appears that the King does not
wish that port to be abandoned." Monterey, June 12th.
Aranzazu, Juan Hendrick, Captain ; January 25th.
Frigate Concepcion at anchor in Nootka harbor
with Ramon Antonio Sadvedra, March 7th.
1794.
Princesa, January 17th.
Sutil, February 28th.
Mexicana. February 28th.
Arrival of Vancovers expedition on the same date,
Feby 28th.
Frigate Concepcion, April 26th.
Mexicana at San Francisco, June loth.
The Frigate Concepcion wrecked off Pichilingue
Bay, Lower Cal., July 5th.
Saturnina, August 5th.
RECORDS OI-" ARRIVALS. 607
Sloop Horcasitas, August 29th.
Concepcion in San Diego, Dec. 17th.
Chattam, at Monterey, Nov. 2ncl.
Discovery, at Monterey, Nov. 5th.
Aranzazu, Oct. 2 2d, at Santa Barbara ; at
Monterey Nov. T4th.
Unknown English vessel at Santa Cruz, Novem-
ber 30th.
English launches arrived at Santa Cruz and pre-
cautions were taken to prevent men from landing
November 30th. The English launches depart and
cause no disorder ; December ist.
Frigate Aranzazu, bound for Nootka from
Monterey, July 12.
Discovery, (Eng. ship) with Vancouver on board.
Exposition under Vancouver arrived the second time
on November 6th.
Catham, (Am. ship) Peter Pudget, master.
1795-
Resolution, (Eng.) Feb. 6th.
Achilles, (Eng.) May 22nd.
Phenix, (Eng.) Sept. loth.
Aranzazu, September 23rd.
Resolution, (Eng.) at San Diego, Oct ist.
Active, (Eng. war vessel) with an English Com-
missioner on board, March 3rd.
Resolution, (Eng. manof war) Captain Juan Lochc.
seeking supplies that were furnished September 6th.
608 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
1796.
Spanish Frigate Concepcion from Manila, anchored
at Santa Barbara, July 25th.
Sloop Loreto, July 25th.
Sutil, arrived July nth.
Providence, (British man of war) W. Broughton,
Commander, at Monterey.
1797.
American ship , Captain Dows forcibly
put on shore eleven foreigners from his vessel, Oct. 6th.
Paquebot S. Carlos, wrecked and lost in the harbor
of San Francisco, March 23rd.
Concepcion and Princesa, (Spanish frigates) have
come to guard the ports of California, March 7th, and
April 13th.
Magallams, Spanish vessel at Santa Barbara, Dec.
5th.
Goyconhea, commander of Santa Barbara (Spanish
war vessel) keeps guard up and down the coast, to see
if they can discover the " Fama," but see nothing.
San Carlos, April 14th.
Unknown large vessel seen off the coast, May 23rd
Three more large vessels seen off the coast, May
nth.
Spanish Frigate Princesa, at Santa Barbara,
May 27.
Several vessels sighted off the coast, July 4th.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 609
Frigate Princesa seen off the coast of San Diegro,
July 22nd ; and the same vessel at San Diego. Octo-
ber 20th.
I 79S.
Fama, (Am. ship) January 7th.
Brig Active, March 31st.
Magallams, March 31st.
Otter, Captain Ebenezer Dow.
Concepcion, October 19th.
1799.
Eliza, Captain James Rowan, June 12th.
Eliza, (Eng. ship) Jas. Rowan, captain, writes to
Pedro Alberin, Comandante of San Francisco, about
getting wood and water, Nov. loth.
Mercedes, (Eng. sloop of war) at San Diego, July
6th.
1800.
Betsy, (Am. vessel) at San Diego Aug. iith.
Nuestra Senorade la Concepcion, Spanish frigate,
Aug. 25th.
Princesa (Spanish frigate,) Aug. 25th.
1801.
Enterprise, (Am. vessel) at San Diego, July 3rd.
1803.
Alexander (Am. vessel) John Brown capt., at
San Diego, Mar. 13th.
39
6 10 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Mexican schooner San Joaquin, and Lelia Bird,
(Am. vessel,) in San Diego June 20th.
Santa Ana, (Mex. schooner).
Calatina, 12 guns and 62 men was ordered off
the coast, but did not go Oct. 15th.
Alexander, (Am.) Captain Brown, Feb. 7th.
Lelia Bird, (Am.) Captain \A\ Shater, at San
Diego Feb. 15th.
1804.
O'Kain, (Am. vessel) 60 men, 15 canoes, 5 boats,
and 16 guns, w^ent into San Ouentin for repairs and
provisions, when ready was ordered off the coast, but
stayed until she had killed all the otter from Rosario
to Santo Domingo. Mar. 24th, O'Kain, captain.
Hazard, Sept. 6th.
Active, (Eng. man-of-war) Sept. 13th.
Racer, (Am.) lands soldiers at Ensenada.
1806.
O'Kain, (Am.) Jose O'Kain, master, in San
Luis Obispo Jan. 2nd.
Racer, (Am.) at San Diego July i6th.
Juno, (Russian ship) Resanofif, captain and agent
of Russian-American Fur Company, at San Francisco
Apr. 1 6th.
Peacock, (Am.) the captain captured three Spanish
soldiers that were rescued by giving up four American
prisoners. Monterey, July 15th.
RECORDS OK ARRIVALS. 6ll
1807.
Racer, (Am.) at San Diego, July 25th.
Alteta, Captain Caleb Winstep.
1813.
Mercurio, June 19th, captured by Nicholas Noe,
captain of the Flora, (Spanish war vessel) detained
at Santa Barbara until Sept. 3rd, following. Jorge,
captain of the Mercurio.
1814.
Isaac Todd, Captain Frazer Smith, Feb'y 21st.
Raccoon, (Eng.) Captain W. Black, March 29th.
1815.
Columbia, July i8th.
1816.
Rurick, (Russian ship) Kotreben, captain, May 5th.
Coronel, (Eng. ship) October loth.
Extraordinary proceedings of the Lelia Bird,
(Am. ship.) She was taken, off the Refujio Rancho
near Santa Barbara, by Californians, who sailed with
her to Monterey, with Captain Henrique Garcelay,
her master, on board, February 5th.
The Governor of the Department sets the Lelia
Bird free ; she was an American smuggler, March 9th.
Ship Albatross, smuggler, Captain W. Smith,
January 25th.
6l2 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Rubio, Kalzule, Rurick, Russian, October 15th.
Soovaroff, Cherescoff, Ermenia, Russian ships, at
San Francisco, Sept. i6th.
Eagle, (Am. ship) at Refujio, Wm. Heath Davis,
owner and captain.
1817.
Caminante, Captain W. Smith Wilcox, Mar. 13th.
La Cazadora, (Spanish frigate) September 30th,
at Monterey.
Paduskin, a Russian officer, came to San Fran-
cisco with small boats with a letter from St. Peters-
burg to the Governor, April loth.
1818.
San Ruperto, (Spanish ship) with all the crew
sick with the scurvy, arrived at Monterey, February
14th.
Argentina, Santa Rosa, Hypolite Bouchard, cap-
tain, insurgent vessels or privateers, Nov. 22nd.
1819.
Cosack, (ship) brings Captain Pablo de la Portilla,
with troops from Mazatlan, August 17th.
San Carlos, (Spanish ship) with munitions of war,
etc., to Monterey, Aug. 25th.
Reyna de los Angeles, Aug. loth.
Reyna de los Angeles, at San Diego, September 6th.
1821.
Frigate Rita.
Brig San Francisco, Xaveir, Oct. 8th.
British frigate May 30th.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 613
1822.
Aguila, (Am. schooner) seized by the Govern-
ment for smuggling, August ist, and sold at auction
at Santa Barbara, Nov. 8th.
San Carlos. March loth.
Apollo, Dec. 19th.
1823.
Apollo, Jan. 20th.
Am. ship Eagle, Captain William Heath Davis.
Tartar, July 24th.
Buldacoff, (Russian) Aug. 31st.
Apollonia, Sept. 25th.
Am. ship Massachusetts, Oct. 6th.
Mentor, Nov. 12th.
1824.
Buldacoff, Jan. 8th.
Juan Begg, John Lincoln, master, Sept. 25th.
Buldacoff, Aug. 12th.
Rosanio, Sept. 25th.
Predpreyatic, Oct. 8th.
French man of war Creiser, Dec. 2nd.
Reina, Dec. loth.
1825.
Eng. brig Eliza.
Am. brig Arab.
Spanish man of war Aquiles, P. Augulo, com-
mander.
6l4 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Morelos, formerly San Carlos, Flaminio Agoevini,
commander.
Pizarro, Eng. brig.
Am. schooner Rover, J. B. R. Cooper, master.
Espeleta.
Juan Battey, John Burton, master.
Russian Brig Elena, Moraviof, master.
Am. Whaler, Ploughboy, Chadwick, master.
Schem, (Am.) W. A. Gale, master.
Maria Ester, (Mex. brio-) Davis, master.
Eng. ship Bengal.
Apollo, whaler, at Santa Cruz.
Merope, (Eng. ship) supposed to be the Espeleta.
Kiaklta, (Russian brig).
Juminis, (Eng. brig) Carter, master.
Asia, Spanish man of war, 70 guns, 400 men, Jose
Martinez, commander, surrendered at Monterey to the
Mexican authorities.
Constante, Spanish man of war, surrendered with
the above, and re-named Apalonia.
Factor, (Am. whaler) John Alexis, master.
Spy, (Am. schooner) George Smith, master.
Nile, (Am. brig) Robert Forbes, master.
Recovery, (Eng. whaler) W. Fisher, master.
Tartar, (Am. schooner) Benj. Morrell, master.
Santa Rosa.
Snow.
Ticnechmack, (Am. brig) John Michi, master.
Washington, (Am. schooner) Robert Elwell, master,
A. B. Thompson, supercargo.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 615
Huascar, (Peruvian brig) J. M. Oyague, master,
W. E. P. Hartnell, passenger.
Whaleman, whaler.
Tomasa.
Triton, Jean Opheme. master.
Thomas, \V. Clark, master.
1826.
Sirena brought money to California.
Solitude, (Am. ship) Chas. Anderson, master.
Blossom, (Eng. exploring) Beechy, commander.
Gen. Braro, (Mex. brig) ]\Ielendiz, captain.
Washington, whaler, Wm. Kelly, master.
Argony, (Russian brig) Inestrumo, master.
Paragon, (Am. whaler) Don Edwards, master.
Olive Branch, (Eng. brig) W. Henderson, master.
Santa Apolonia, (Mex. schooner) Manuel Bates,
master, Sanchez Ramar, supercargo.
Timorlan, (Haw. brig) seal and otter hunter at
Santa Barbara.
Peruvian, (Am. whaler) Alex. Macy, master.
Mero C. (Am. ship) Bacelo Juan, master.
Mercury, (Am. whaler) W. Austin, master.
Baikal, (Russian brig) Benseman, master.
Waverly, (Haw. brig) \V. G. Dana, master.
Harbinger, (Am. brig) J. Steel, master.
Charles, Am. whaler.
Adams, (Am. ship) Danl. Fallon, master.
Speedy, (Eng. Ship).
6l6 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Courier, (Am. ship) W. Cunningham, master.
Jonre, (Haw. brig).
Thomas Nolan, (Eng. ship) W. Clark, master.
Cyrus, (Am. schooner David Hariens, master.
Theresa Maria, (Am. ship) W. Gulnac, master.
Alliance, (Am. ship).
1827.
Blossom, (exploring expedition) Beechy, com-
mander.
Harbinger, (Am.) J. Steele, master.
Olive Branch, (Eng.) W. Henderson, master.
Andes, Seth Rodcjers, master.
Paraiso.
Solitude, J. Anderson, master.
Thomas Nowlan J. Wilson, master.
Carimaca.
Magdalena.
Temega.
Oliphant.
Maria Esther, David J. Holmes, master.
Huascar, J. M. Oyague, master.
Waverly, T. Robbins, master.
Sachem, W. A. Gale, master.
Ochotsk, D. Zarambo, master.
Massachusetts.
Isabella.
Heros, A. Dubrante Ceille, master.
Sp), George Smith, master.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 617
Grion.
Young Tartar.
Golovlnia.
Taniaackmaah, j. Michi, master.
Favorite.
Baikal, Etholin, master.
Franklin, J. Bradshaw, master.
Cadboro.
Concrete.
Tomaso.
Courier, W. Cunningham, master.
Fulham, H. Kimond, master.
Washington, R. Ewell, master.
1828.
Phenix, W. Ratiguende, master.
Franklin, J. Bradshaw, master.
Clio, W. Williams, master.
Vulture, B. Barry, master.
Funchal, S. Anderson, master.
Sucre, Melendez, master.
Grifon, C. Pitnack, master.
Andes, Seth Rodgers, master.
Verale, W. Deny, master.
Fulham, H. Kimond, master.
Kiathkla.
Laperin.
Rascow, W. Fisher, master.
Guebale, T. Robbins, master.
6l8 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS,
Harbinger, J. Steele, master.
Courier, W. Cunningham, master,
Arab.
Heros, A. Duhante Cille, master, .
Baikal, Etholin, master.
Minerva, D. Cornelio, master.
Huascar, J. M. Oyaque, master.
Karimoko.
Thomas Nowlan, J. Wilson, master,
Telemachus, J. Gillespie, master.
Emily, Mareham. master.
Washington, R. Elwell, master.
Temis, W. Ross, master.
Brillante, Waverly T. Robbins, master.
Maria Ester, Dav. J. Holmes, master.
Pocahontas, J. Bradshaw, master.
Okolilsk, D. Zarembo, master.
Solitude, J. Anderson' master.
Wilmantic, J. Bois, master.
1829.
Franklin, J. Bradshaw, master.
Andes, Seth Rodgers, master.
James Coleman, Hennul, master.
Maria Ester, H. D. Fitch, master.
Volunteer, W. S. Hinckley, master.
Susana, Levain, master.
Rosalia, Bruno Colepsodriguer, master.
Ann, Burnie, master.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 619
American.
Indian.
Vulture, Rich. Barry, master.
Funchal, Steven Anderson, master.
Dolly, W. Warden, master.
Planet, G. Rutten, master.
Joven Angustias.
Baikal, Benseman, master.
Alvino.
Kiatka.
Wilmington, John Bon, master.
Thomas Nowlan, J. Wilson, master.
Warren, W. Rice, master.
Santa Barbara, Waverly T. Robbins, master.
Okotsk, D. Zarembo, master.
Washington, W. Kelly, master.
Tridunt, Felix Esterlin, master.
Brookline, W, A. Gale, master.
Tumachmach, J. Michi, master.
1830.
Lenor, H. D. Fitch, master.
Thomas Nowlan, J. Wilson, master.
Maria Esther, J. A. C. Holmes, master.
Ayacucho, Joseph Snook, master.
Cyrus, David Harriens, master.
Seringapatam, grounded on Blossom Rock.
Whaleman, Joseph Ruddock, master.
Globe, Moore, master.
620 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Catalina, C. Christen, Eulojio de Cells, supercargo.
Pocahontas, John Aradshap, master.
Dambe, Sam Cooke, master.
Planet, John Butter, master.
Washington, R. Elwell, master, carried horses to
the vSandwich Islands.
Chalcedony, Joe Steel, master.
Emily, took prisoners to Santa Barbara.
Volunteer, W. S. Hinckley, master; carried
Joaquin Solis and his suite as prisoners to San Bias
(banished).
Brookline, Jas. O. Lake, master.
Convoy, (Am. brig) Perkins, master.
Funchal, Steven Anderson, master.
Jura.
Dryad, from Columbia river.
1831.
Luisa, (Am. bark) George Wood, master.
Fibian, trades on the coast.
Ayacucho, John Wilson, master.
California, W, A. Gale, supercargo.
Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master.
Guadalupe, California built schooner by Jose Chap-
man at San Pedro.
Wm. Little, Harry Carter, master.
Marcus, N. S. Bassett, master.
Baikal, Livorich, master.
Globe, Moore, master.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 62 I
Whalehound, whaler.
Pochontas, Bradshaw, master.
Catalina, Holmes, master, brouo^ht Government
stores, and also Governor Jose Figueroa, in 1833.
Whaleman, whaler.
Convoy (Am. brig) Perkins, master.
Urup, D. Zarembo, master.
Margarita, carried]. M. Paores from Monterey.
Volunteer, Jos. O. Carter, master.
Dryad, brought Doctor David Douglas, botanist.
Fanny, whaler.
Harriet, whaler.
1832.
Chalcidony, J. Steel, master.
Don Quixote, (Am. bark) J. Meek, master.
New Castle, Stephen, master.
Balance, Ed. Daggett, master.
Planet, sailed from Boston with the California.
California, W. A. Gale, master.
Spy.
Urup, D. Zarembo, master.
Crusader, (Am. brig) Thos. Hinckley, master.
Josephine, W. A. Richardson, master ; lost at
Santa Catalina Island.
Polefemia, Bradshaw, master.
Transquilina, Geo. Prince, master.
American, whaler, Nov.
Victoria, Brewer, master.
^^^ RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Bolfver, Nye, master; all men sick with the
scurvy ; carried horses to the Sandwich Islands.
Ayacucho. John Wilson, master ; the fastest vessel
on the coast up to the time she was beaten by the
Volunteer, in 1833.
Joven Victoriano, September.
Pocahontas, Bradshaw, master.
Waverly, W. Sumner, master.
Rosana, Frank Thompson, master.
Wm. Thompson. Stephen Potter, master.
Anchovite, whaler.
Phebe, whaler.
Friend. L. B. Blendenburg. master.
Catalina, (Mex. brig) J. C. Holmes, master
Friend, L. B. Blendenberg, master.
Loriot, Gorham H. Nye, master.
North America, N. Blanchard, master.
Roxana, F. Thompson, master.
Polefemia, Bradshaw, master; she carried away
•Oov. Victoria and Padre, Peyri, in 1832.
Isabel. J. C. Albert, master.
Helvetius, (Am. whaler).
Dryad, (Eng. brig).
Bolivar, Dominus, Master.
Layada, J. Bradshaw, master.
Facio, Santiago Johnson, master.
Crusader, Thos. Hinckley, master.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 623
Enriqueta, Lewis Young.
Kitty, (Am. whaler).
Leonidas, formerly U. S. Dolphin, J. Malarin,
master.
General Jackson, (Am. whaler).
Albert, Fancon, master.
Harriet, Blanchard Carter, master.
Don Quixote, John Meek, master, \V. S. Hinck-
ley, supercargo.
Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master.
Fakeja, R. Smith, master.
Ayacucho, Stephen Anderson, master.
Margarita, (Mex. schooner) Baikal Livovich,
master.
Volunteer, Shaw, master.
Charles Eyes, (Eng) B. T. Chapman, master.
Santa Barbara, (Mex) T. M. Robbins, master.
California, (Am. ship) Jas. Arthur, master.
1831.
Facio Santo, Johnson, master.
Lagoda, J. Bradshaw, master.
Clarita, (Mex. bark).
Avon, (Am. brig) \V. S. Hinckley, master.
Morelos, (Mex. sloop of war) Lieut. L. ¥. Manso,
commander.
By Chance, Hiram Covell, master.
Pacifico, consigned to J. A. Aguirre.
Joven Dorotea, Benito Machado, master.
624 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Crusader, W. A. Richardson, master.
Leonor, H. D. Fitch, master.
Ayacucho, J. Wilson, master.
Europe, properly called Urup, D. Zarembo,
master.
Loriot, Gorham H. Nye, master.
California, (Am. ship) Jas. Arthur, master.
Natalia, (Mex.) Juan Gomez, master.
Polefemia, N. Rosenburg, master.
Llama, W. M. Niel, master.
Don Quixote, J. Meek, master.
Magruder, W. Taylor, master.
Refujio, (Mex.) built at San Pedro.
Bonanza, (Eng. schooner)
Margarita, (Mex.)
South Carolina, Joe Steel, master,
Peores Nada, (Better than Nothing) Ch. Hibbard,
master.
Feighton.
Pulga.
Steriton, Whaler.
Tansuero, L. Amist, master.
Wm. Sye, D. A. Riddle, master.
Marta, Tim W. Ridley, master.
Rosa, (Sardinian ship) Nie Bianchi, master.
1835,
Ganza, H. Chondiere, master,
lolani, Jas. Rogers, master.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 625
Catalina, R. Marshall, master.
Maraquita, Ag. Poncabaro, master.
Pilgrim, Ed. H. Fancon, master.
Loriot, Gorham H. Nye, master.
Facio. James Johnson, master; grounded at San
Pedro, and was saved by the Pilgrim.
Ayacucho, James Scott, master.
Matador, consigned to John Parrott. Leon Bon-
nett, master.
Framner.
Alert, (Am. ship) Fancon, master.
Lagoda, Bradshaw, master.
Peores Nada; built at Monterey, by Joaquin
Gomez.
Garifilfa.
Clementina (Eng. brig) Jas. Hanley, master.
Liverpool Packet, (Eng. whaler).
Diana, (Am. [brig).
California, (Am. ship) Jas. Arthur, master.
Avon. (Am. brig) W. S. Hinckley, master.
Juan Jose. (Peru, brig) consigned to Miguel
Pedrorena. ^
Bolivar, (Am. brig) Dominis, master.
Leonar, H. D. Fitch, master.
Margarita.
Polefencia, N. Rosenberg, master.
Washington, whaler.
Sitka, Basilio Wacodzy, master.
Maria Teresa, (Mex. brig).
40
626 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Trinidad, (Mex. brig).
Rosa, Aia Bianchi.
Prima vera, (Mex. brig) Carlos Baric, owner and
master.
1836.
Hector, (Am.) Norton, master.
Leonidas, (Mex.) Gomez, master.
Loriot, (Am.) J. Bancroft, master.
Isabella (Haw.) N. Spear, owner.
Peores Nada, Gerald Kuppertz, master.
Pilgrim, Fancon, master.
Convoy, otter hunter, (Am. brig) Bancroft, master.
Sitka, (Russian) Basil Wacoocky, master.
Peacock, (U. S. sloop of war) Stubling, com-
mander ; flag-ship of Commodore Kennedy.
Brison, (Eng.)
California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master.
Rasselas, (Am. ship), Carter, master.
Europa, (Am. ship) Winkworth, master.
Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master.
Rosa.
Catalina, (Mex. brig) Snook, master.
1837-
City of Genoa, (Chilian) at Monterey in December.
Catalina, (Mex. brig) Snook, master.
Baikal, (Russian) Stephen Toaks, master.
Alciope, (Am. ship) Curtis captain.
Harvest, (Am.) A. Cash, master.
RECORDS OK ARRIVALS. 627
Loriot, Otter hunter, (Am. brig) Bancroft, captain.
Diana, (Am. brig) W. S. Hinckley, captain.
Clementina, (Eng. brig) Handley, captain.
Indian, (Eng. whaler) Freeman, captain.
Nancy, (brig) Fautrel, captain.
Llama, (Eng.) W. Brotchie, captain.
Sarah, (Am. brig) Joseph Steel, captain.
Voloz Asturiano, (Ecuador) C. V. Gatan, captain.
A'^enus, (French corvette) Petit Thonars, captain.
Starting, (Eng. war vessel) Lieut. Kellet, com-
mander.
Sulphur, (Eng. war vessel) Edward Belcher, com-
mander.
Boliver, (Am. brig) G. H. Nye, master.
lolani (Haw. schooner) Paty, master.
Toward Castle, (Eng.) Emmett, master.
Pilgrim, (Am. brig^ Fancon, master.
Crusader (Columbian) came from Callao.
Leonor, (Mex.) Chas. Walters, captain.
Cadboro, (Eng.) W. Botchie, captain.
California, (Mex. schooner) H. Paty, captain.
Kent, (Am. bark) Stickney, captain.
True Blue, (Haw.) Ragadate, captain.
Delmira, (Ecuador) Vioget, captain, M. Pedrorefia,
supercargo.
1838.
Fearnaught, (Eng. brig) R. Dare, captain and
owner.
Nereid, (Eng.) W. Brotchie, captain.
628 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Kamamalu, (Am. brig) formerly Diana, W. S.
Hinckley, captain.
Alert, (Am. ship) Penhallow, master.
Cadboro (Eng.)
Plymouth, (Am. bark) Paty, master.
Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master.
Kent, (Am. bark) Stickney, master.
Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master.
Leonidas, (Mex. brig) Juan Malarin, master.
Bolivar, (Am. brig) Nye, master.
Flibberty Gibbett, (Eng. schooner) Rogers, master.
Daniel O'Connell, (Columbian) Andres Murcilla,
master.
Sitka, (Russian) Wacoocky, master.
California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master.
Rasselas, (Am. ship) Barker, master.
Catalina, (Mex. brig) Snook, master.
Clarita, (Mex. bark) Chas. Waters, master.
Venus, (French man of war) October.
Commodore Rogers, wrecked Nov. 19th.
Blossom, (Eng. man of war) Belcher, commander,.
December.
1839-
Monsoon, (Am. ship) Vincent, master. Shaw,
supercargo, June 2nd.
Ayacucho, (Eng. brig).
Corsair, (Am. brig) Wm. S. Hinckley, captain
and supercargo, with full cargo of merchandise ; brought
the first grist-mill for Spear, from Callao.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. b2g
Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master.
Clarita, (Mex. bark) Walters, master.
Catalina, (Mex. bark) Snook, master.
Baikal, (Russian).
California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master.
Bolivar, (Am. brig) Nye, master.
Clementine, (Eng. brig) Blinn, master.
Artemiz, (French frigate).
Maria, (whaler).
Elvantes, (Peruvian).
California, (Mex. schooner).
Sulphur, (Eng. man-of-war) Belcher, commander.
Juan Jose, (Ecuadorian brig) Duncan, master,
Pedroreiia, supercargo.
1840.
Daniel O'Connell, (Peruvian).
U. S. sloop of war St. Louis, Forrest June, com-
mander.
Alciope, (Am. ship) Clapp, master.
Nicolai, (Russian) Kuprianoff, master.
Joseph Peabody, (Am. brig) Dominis, master.
Union, (Am. schooner).
Lausanne, (Am.) Spalding, captain.
Juan Jose, (Columbian brig) Thos. Duncan, mas-
ter.
Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master.
Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master.
California, (Mex.) T. M. Robbins, master.
630 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Monsoon, (Am. ship) Geo. Vincent, master.
Elena, (Russian) S. Vallivade, captain.
Angelina, (French ship) N. Jena, captain.
Morse, (Am. schooner) Henry Paty, captain.
Bolivar, (Am. brig) Nye, captain.
Forager, (Eng.)
Alert, (Am. ship) Phelps, captain.
Don Quixote, (Am. bark) Paty, captain.
184T.
Joven Carolina, (Ecuadorian brig) from Guayquil,
Captain Miguelon, March —
Maryland, (Am. schooner).
Ayacucho, (Eng. brig) Wilson, master.
Juan Diego, (Mex. schooner).
Llama, (Am.) Jones, captain.
Orizaba, (Mex. transport).
Hamilton, (Am.) Hand, captain.
Cowlitz, (Eng. bark) Brotchie, captain.
Lausanne. (Am.) Steel, captain.
Yorktown, U. S. man-of-war, Antick, commander.
Bolina, (Mex. schooner) trading on the coast.
Flying Fish, (Am.) Knox, master.
Lahaina, (Eng. whaler).
U. S. ship Vincennes, flag-ship of Commodore
Wilkes exploring expedition.
y. S. brig Porpoise. Reingold, commander, at-
tached to the " Vincennes" (exploring expedition.)
The sloop of war Peacock of the same expedition
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 63 1
was lost on the Columbia River bar, and her officers
and crew were rescued by the other vessels before
mentioned.
Columbia, (Eng. bark) Humphries, master.
JuHann, (Am. schooner) from New York, Leides-
dorff, master.
George and Henry, (Am. bark) Stephen Smith,
owner and master,
Eliza, French whaler, Malherbe, master.
Index, (Eng. bark) Scott, master.
Catalina, (Mex. brig) Chris. Hansen, master.
Chato, (Mex. brig) Machado, master.
Tasso, (Am. bark) Hastings, master.
Bolivar, (Am. brig) G. H. Nye, master.
California, (Mex. Government schooner) Cooper,
master.
Don Quixote, (Am. bark) Paty. master.
Clarita, (Mex. bark) Walters, master.
Alert, (Am. ship) Phelps, master.
Leonidas, (Mex. brig) Stokes, master.
1842.
California, (Mex. Government schooner) Cooper,
master.
Primavera. (Mex. brig) A. Chienes, master.
Llama, (Am.) Jones, master.
Index, (Eng. bark) Wilson, master.
Esmeralda. (Mex. brig) Hugo Reid, master.
Fama, (Am. ship) Hoyer, master.
632 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Constante, (Chilian ship) F. Una Mano, master.
BoHvar, (Am. brig) G. H. Nye, master.
United States, Commodore Jones's flag-ship, Cap-
tain Armstrong, commander.
Cyane, (U. S. ship of war) Stringham, com-
mander,
Palatina, (Mex.) came from the Mexican Coast.
Relief, (U. S. store ship) J. Sterrett, commander.
Tasso, (Am. bark) Hastings, master.
CataHna, (Mex. brig) Hansen, master.
Alert, (Am. ship) Phelps, master.
Jenny, (Hamburg ship) John Mein, master.
Republicano, (Mex. brig) Machado, master.
Joven Famita, (Mex. schooner) Limantour, master.
Joven Guipuzcoana, (Mex. bark) Snook, master.
Fernanda, (Mex. brig).
Don Quixote, (Am. bark) Paty, master.
Clarita, (Mex. bark) Walters, master.
Chato, (Mex. ship) brought General Micheltorena
and landed him and his troops at San Dieg-o.
o
Juliann, (Am. schooner) Liedesdorff, master.
Maryland, (x^m. brig) Blinn, master.
Alex. Barclay, (German whaler).
Barnstable, (Am. ship) Hatch, master.
California, (Am. shipj Arthur, master.
1843.
George and Henry, (Am. bark) from Peru, with
Mrs. Smith, her mother and Manuel Torres, as passen-
gers, Stephen Smith, master.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 633
Fanny, Feby. ist.
Don Quixote, (Am. bark) John Paty, master,
Vandalia, (Am. ship) Everett, master.
1844.
Vandalia, (Am. ship) Everett, master.
Constantine, (Chilian ship) Feb. 27th.
California, (Mex. Government schooner^ Cooper,
master.
Sterling, (Am. ship) Vincent, master, March 29th.
Julia, Dalton, master.
Juanita, (Eng. schooner) Wilson, Oct. 11.
Fama, (Am. ship) G. H. Nye, master.
Trinidad, Oct. 1 1.
Clarita, (Mex. bark) J. Vioget, master, Sept. 5th.
California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master.
1845.
California, (Am. ship) Arthur, master.
Joven Guipuzcoana, (Mex. bark) Orbell, master.
Tasso, (/Vm. bark) Hastings, master.
Maria, Dec. 19th, F. W. Holmes, master.
Matador, Natchin, master, Oct. 30th.
Cowlitz, (Eng. bark) Brotchie, master.
Primavera, (Mex. brig) Chienes, master, May 23rd.
Julia, Dalton, master, Sept. 29th.
Star of the West, lost off Monterey Bay (already
mentioned).
Argo, whaler, Oct. 23rd.
634 RECORDS OF ARRIVALS.
Fama, (Am. ship) G. H. Nye, master, May 28th
Vandalia, (Am. ship) Everett, master.
Juanita, (Eng. schooner) Wilson, master.
Clarita, (Mex. bark) J. Vioget, master.
Catalina, (Mex. brig).
Farisco, Indart, master, Oct. 2nd.
1846.
Don Quixote, (Haw. bark) John Paty, master,
March loth.
Euphemia, (Haw. brig) Thos. Russom, master,
March 31st.
Moscow, (Am. bark) W. D. Phelps, master,
March loth.
Alfredo, March 2nd.
Angola, (Am. bark) S. Varney. master, June 17th.
Fanny, whaler, Feby. 3rd.
Hannah, (Am. brig) March 25th.
Maria Teresa, May iith.
California, (Mex. Government schooner) Cooper,
master.
1847.
Commodore Shubrick, (Am. schooner) July 6th.
T. H. Benton, (Am.) July 21st.
Anas, (P>ench) July 21st.
Providence, (Am. schooner) July 24th.
Euphemia, (Haw. brig) Russom, master, November.
Joven Guipuzcoana, (Mex. bark).
Barnstable, (Am. ship) Hall, master.
RECORDS OF ARRIVALS. 635
Matilda, (Danish).
Mary Ann, (Haw. schooner).
Laura Ann, (Eng. schooner).
William, (Am. brig).
Eveline, (Am. brig).
Primavera, (Mex. schooner).
Malek Adhil, (Am. brig).
Maria Helena, (Chilian vessel).
Commodore Shubrick, (Am. schooner) November
13th.
Anita. (Am. bark).
Tonica, (Am. schooner).
Henry, (Am. brig).
Currency Lass, (French schooner).
Elizabeth, (Am. brig) Cheevers, master.
Angolo. (Am. bark) S. Varney, master.
T848.
Laura Ann, (Eng. brig).
Euphemia, (Haw. brig) Russom, master.
Malek Adhil, (Am. brig).
Charles, (Am. ship) David Carter, supercargo.
Natalia, (Chilian bark) Juan Manuel Luco, super-
cargo and owner.
S. S. (Haw. schooner).
Lady Adams, (Am. brig) Coffin, supercargo.
James Lick came in her as a passenger from Callao^
Peru.
Eveline, (Am. brig).
636 EXPORTATIONS.
Starling, (Haw.)
Anita, (Am. bark) Quarter- master's vessel.
Louisa, (Haw.)
La Flecha, (Spanish).
Adelaida, (Chilian).
Providence, (Am. schooner).
Mary, (Haw schooner).
After the receipt of the list of arrivals of vessels
from Mr. Forbes, it reminded me of revising my
former estimate on pages 376 and 2^']'], of the exports
of hides and tallow from 1828 to 1847, a period of
twenty years, of thirty-three vessels with cargoes in the
aggregate of 1,068,000 hides. I have taken the year
1800, the time the missions were fairly started in the
raising of live stock, down to their impoverishment ;
but the enterprise was continued by the hacendados in
the only wealth of the department as already men-
tioned. I find in the list before me, that the vessels
were numerous, which visited California in those primi-
tive days. I have taken the years 1800 to 1847, and
I find the arrivals were six hundred vessels of all sizes
and nationalities. In my conjecture I take only two
hundred of them, which is certainly a liberal deduction,
and allow to each one thousand hides exported yearly.
This will give a total of 9,400,000 hides for two hun-
dred vessels for forty-seven years. The tallow that
was exported during the same period would be two
arrobas for each hide, giving a total of 18,800,000 ar-
robas of tallow. I think it perfectly accurate to esti-
REVISED ESTIMATES. OT^y
mate the exportation of hides and tallow for forty-
seven years at 5,000,000 hides and 10,000,000 arrobas
of tallow, a deduction of nearly one-half from the first
calculation, but not the increase of cattle on 600,000,
900,000 and 1,200,000 head at different periods of the
forty-seven years as will be observed. In other words,
the cattle which were killed yearly as an income to the
department, kept those animals from over-running- the
immense territory of over seven hundred miles of
coast. Probably my first figures are the most correct
of the two estimates.
The readers can judge for themselves which of
the two will give the most knowledge concerning those
articles which constituted the leading commerce in the
primitive days of the Department of California.
Anterior to the year 1800 there were many cattle
slaughtered by the missions ; surely the hides and
tallow as articles of commerce from time immemorial,
were not thrown to the wild beasts of the forest to
feed on, but were bought by merchants and traders and
shipped to different parts of the world, as the memo-
randum of shipping on my table, will fully attest.
In the multiplicity of matters upon which I have
written, I have unintentionally omitted to narrate the
manner in which the merchants generally kept their
gold. Among the receptacles for the gold dust were
tin pans, tin pots and also a vessel used as a piece of
furniture for the sleeping apartments. The bright
metal was placed in those after being weighed, and a
638 VIGILANCE COMMITTEE.
tag attached on which was marked the number of
ounces.
As I am closing my work, it is but proper to make
a few remarks in reference to the Vigilantes of 1856.
The subject has been written upon so often, that I
deem it would be a repetition to write of the exciting
scenes then enacted to save life and property, from the
ruffians who infested and controlled the city of San
Francisco, in carrying out their evil designs a gener-
ation ago. The men who composed the Vigilance
Committee were determined to demonstrate to the
whole country that San Francisco was and is as now
an American town, and that her citizens were to
perpetuate that title at that critical period of her history
for all time to come. They did their work well ; and
restored order and obedience to the law of the land.
The citizens who came forward to the rescue,
deserve the everlasting gratitude of the people of the
Pacific coast
In calling to mind incidents in which my old
associates were connected, the act of doing so has
revived many personal circumstances which though
not needed in the book were pleasing ; also many scenes
of enjoyment with those who have departed from life
and will be seen no more. Such events have awakened
at times, mournful sensations, for
" There is many a lass I've loved is dead,
And many a lad grown old ;
And when that lesson strikes my head,
My weary heart grows cold."
CONCLUSION. 639
Other remembrances have brought back happy
associations with friends, and seasons past ;■ between
the gladness of some and the sadness of others, there
arise sentiments, which, in the language of Ossian,
*' Like the swaying of the wind in the pine tops, are
pleasing and mournful to the soul."
Corrections : On page 320 the death of \V. D. M.
Howard's first wife occurred in 1849 instead of 1850.
His second marriage took place in the autumn of 1849
not in 1850, as stated in the succeeding paragraph.
On page 227 " The North Star," should read
'' Star of the West."
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
017 064 045 ■?#
•: :,:,!.."■'::;. :';::i;i;x. ■
'■■ ■•;"" .^Kt.' I''
:, jX'X "<'■'■ ' ' •
■''''■Vli!;!^'!!!!;'':.;',;!') ;..,
,, , j:;:i:i:;;i.;:\!ii;;.iir;'|; '•••'•"•■■
■:'i|!r;:i:';.: .i'M.;:'; ■"■■ [
•■ :■■ ■ ■:■■, ■' :U
■.: ill
. i'v'l
;';;;,„;;„ '.-::,::■■ ' ', ;:;r;'i
i,l!l;i''':::'i-v'r'' '•:'
■i:i,:'iii:'::M',;"i,:t;, .^;,