OMSI TORY ^^^^^^^-^ Pass ^^ ^ Rnnk -VVi<2> GDpiglitN?_ COEVKIGMT DEPOSm From Literary California. — Mighel The children's statue of the Pioneer Mother. "The only church we knew was around our mother's knee " — Stephen M. White. LESSONS IN CALIFORNIA HISTORY BY HARR WAGNER AUTHOR OF PACIFIC HISTORY STORIES AND MARK KEPPEL COUNTY SUPIRINTENDENT OF SCHOOLS OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 'Westward the Star of Empire takes its tt'^.v"-- Berkeley Copyright 1922 by Harr Wagner HARR WAGNER PUBLISHING COMPANY SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA U S^ I Wii> 00731*9? ©C1A6&0313 PREFACE The writers of this history have aimed to give each chapter a beginning, a middle and an end. Each topic is complete in itself. An attempt has been made to put some life in the pages by going into details that have a human interest which the formal his- torical writer would consider more or less trivial. Special emphasis has been placed on the early dis- coveries by sea and land and the idea has been to correlate the facts of geography and history so this .book will furnish material in harmony with such books as ''California" and ''The Home and Its Re- lation to the World" by Dr. H. W. Fairbanks. Tourists and students have a special interest in the Spanish historical relationships. Architecture, especially the modern school buildings and private homes, the olive, the orange and the vine and other fruits and even our hospitality, are a part of Cali- fornia's Spanish heritage. The discovery of gold, the American settlements, the building of the great state of California during the past seventy years, are treated by the presenta- tion of types of pioneers and stories of struggles and difficulties of the early settlers. Special emphasis has been placed upon the story of education, the story of literature, the story of the state government and Cal- ifornia's contribution to the common wealth, on ac- count of their influence upon the social conditions of our state. The aim has been to stimulate the love of the people for California; to keep alive the memo- ries of the pioneers and the men and women who contributed to the wholesome pubHc sentiment that has brought about our great commonwealth and translated it into socialized uses. We believe that the illustrations will be of un- usual value, as they have been selected for their his- torical interest rather than scenic effects. Less em- phasis than is usual has been placed on our wars and more emphasis has been placed on our literature and heroes of thought. The compilation of California names and their de- rivations will be useful as well as interesting. The writers have aimed, not only to make children think, but to give them something to think about. The authors are especially indebted to Ruth Thomp- son, author of ''Comrades of the Desert" and ''Type Stories of the World for Little Folk," for research work, revision of manuscript and the preparation of several chapters; to Roy Cloud, Superintendent of Schools, San Mateo County, for the chapter on trans- portation; to J. D. Sweeney, Superintendent of the Red Bluff schools and special student of California history, who contributed the chapter on John Bid- well; to Harry Noyes Pratt for revision and sev- eral sections; to C. B. Turrill for photographs and source material; and to William M. Culp for sug- gestions and photographs. HARR WAGNER. MARK KEPPEL. CONTENTS Chapter I — Balboa 9 Project — Discovery of the South Sea by Balboa in 1513. Chapter II— Magellan 14 Project — The first trip around the world, and naming the Pacific Ocean, 1520. Chapter III — Cortes 17 Project — The conquest of Mexico and all lands to the north by the Spaniards from 1519 to 1540. Chapter IV— Cabrillo 20 Proj-ect — The search for the Straits of Anian, 1542. Chapter V — Vaca 23 Project — Cabeza De Vaca, or the search for the fabled cities of Cibola, 1528-1539. Chapter VI — Vizcaino 25 Project — The discovery of the bay of Monterey in 1596. Chapter VII — Sir Francis Drake 28 Project — In search of gold and th-e "Straits of Anian" or the northwest passage, 1539-1596. Chapter VIII — The Spanish Settlements 33 Project — The settlement of California by the Spaniards, 1769 to 1815. Chapter IX — ^Juan Bautista Anza 51 Project — The founding of San Francisco, 1744 to 1775. Chapter X — The Indians of California 59 Project — A study of the native Indian tribes from 1769 to 1922. Chapter XI — The Spanish Governors of California 78 Project — The government of California by the Spaniards, 1770 to 1822. Chapter XII — The Mexican Governors 85 Project — California ruled by the Mexicans from 1823 to July 7, 1846. Chapter XIII — The Russians in California 98 Project — The settlement of the Pacific Coast, including Cali- fornia, by Russians, 1781 to 1841. Chapter XIV— Romantic California 102 Project— The social life from 1770 to 1846. Chapter XV— Jedediah Smith 112 Project — The first overland journ-ey to California, 1826. Chapter XVI — John Charles Fremont 115 Project — Explorations of western territory and life of John Charles Fremont from 1840 to 1890. Chapter XVII— John Bidwell 139 Project — The pioneer settlement in Northern California, 1841, Chapter XVIII — Peter Lassen, Pioneer 145 Chapter XIX— The Donner Party 149 Project — Crossing the plains in covered wagons, 1846. Chapter XX — The Discovery of Gold 160 Project — The production of gold in California, 1848. Chapter XXI— Dr. Josiah Gregg 184 Project — The exploration of Humboldt Bay region, 1849. Chapter XXII— William Lewis Manly 195 Project — The discovery of Death Valley, 1850. Chapter XXIII — California Admitted to the Union 201 Project — California's admission to the Union of States, Sep- tember 9, 1850. Chapter XXIV — Governors Under American Rule 209 Project — The political growth of California, 1846-1922. Chapter XXV — Education 213 Project — The public school system, 1850 to 1922. Chapter XXVI — Literature of California 223 Project — The Study of California in literature, art and music, 1852 to 1922. Chapter XXVII— Industrial Wealth 239 Project — California's contribution to the common wealth. Chapter XXVIII— Stephen Mallory White 246 Project — A typical Native Son. Chapter XXIX — Transportation 252 Project — The story of building the first transcontinental railroad. Chapter XXX— Imperial Valley 260 Project — The development of a desert by irrigation. Chapter XXXI — Conservation 267 Proj-ect — Our State and National Parks. Chapter XXXII — Cities with a Historical Background 271 Project — San Francisco, Los Angeles, Oakland, San Diego, Sacramento, Long Beach, Berkeley, Pasadena, Fresno, Stockton, San Jose, Santa Barbara. Appendix 307 Places connected with California history. List of Governors of California. California names, derivation, pronunciation and meanings. CALIFORNIA HISTORY BALBOA PROJECT— DISCOVERY OF THE SOUTH SEA BY BALBOA, IN 1513. Topics — The First Authentic Record of the Discovery of the South Sea. The Lure of Gold. The Native In- dians. The Importance of Balboa's Discovery. CHAPTER I September 29, 1513, twenty-one years after Colum- bus discovered America, Balboa discovered the Pacific Ocean. Long before Balboa stood upon the mountain peak in Darien, men of other countries had come to the lands washed by the sunset seas. Scientists have discovered strange signs and symbols which prove that for centuries before the intrepid Spanish explor- ers set foot on this soil, other men of other lands had been here before them. In view of the fact, however, that Balboa was the first to leave an authentic record of his discoveries, he is given first place in the history of Cahfornia. While the first Spanish explorer to connect his name directly with California was Hernando Cortes, who landed at Vera Cruz six years after Balboa dis- covered the Pacific, yet it was Balboa's daring that 10 CALIFORNIA HISTORY opened the various trails which led to the develop- ment of the lands bordering on the great western sea. Balboa was born in Spain in 1475. When a boy of seventeen he heard stories of the new world as told by Columbus and his men. Without waiting to make any preparations he sailed for liayti, then known by the musical name of Hispaniola. He engaged in farm- ing with no great success. When Encisco decided to go on a voyage of discovery, Balboa, to escape his creditors, hid himself in a barrel which was rolled on board the ship. When he was discovered, the ship be- ing too far out at sea to put him off, and Balboa ex- plaining to Encisco, the captain, that he knew where there was a land of much gold, it was decided to make use of him. Balboa became very popular with the ship's crew. He was chosen as their leader in place of Encisco before Darien was reached. The native Indians, dressed in skins of wild beasts, met the Spaniards at Darien. They became very friendly with them. Balboa learned from them that there was gold and a great body of water on the other side of the mountain. Balboa made up his mind that he would cross this mountain and find out if the stories he had heard were true. He took with him about two hundred men, a number of blood hounds, and some of the na- tive Indians of Darien. On the sixth of September, 1513, Balboa began his march to the sea across what is now known as the CALIFORNIA HISTORY 11 Isthmus of Panama, along the route of the Panama Canal which the United States built under the leader- ship of Theodore Roosevelt. This trail was also used by many of the pioneers of 1849 and 1850. It was a difficult trip, as the Isthmus of Panama is under the path of the sun and the people had not yet learned how to keep well in a tropical climate. When they came near the highest part of the mountain, Porque, an Indian chief, with one thou- sand men, met Balboa and his party. ''What do you want?" he demanded. 'T will not permit you to pass." Balboa attempted to march on in spite of the chief's threats. When the Indians showed battle, the Spaniards attacked them with their weapons. Many Indians were killed. With about sixty of his men, Balboa started the climb to the summit of the mountain. The under- brush was so thick the men had to cut paths with their sabers. At last Balboa reached the top of the mountain, and as Keats said of Cortes, he stood "Silent upon a peak in Darien." Before him was the great ocean. He turned to his men and said: ''There is the re- ward for your labors. You are the first Christians to behold that sea !" They built a cross on the moun- tain top and piled stones around it. On September 29, 1513, Balboa, dressed in his ar- mor, holding his sword and with the flag of Spain in his hand, waded into the water. 'T take posses- 12 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 13 sion of the Southern Sea with all its islands and all the shores washed by its waves," he declared. A paper was then drawn up and signed by each man describing their discovery of the great body of water which they named the Southern Sea. On their return Balboa and his men attempted to force Poncra, an Indian chief, to reveal to them the source of the large quantities of gold that he pos- sessed. He refused and was tortured and put to death. After this cruel incident Balboa and his men re- turned in triumph to Darien. It had taken a little more than four months to make the trip. In Europe the news of the discovery created almost as much of a sensation as the discovery of America by Co- lumbus. The King of Spain appointed Pedraris Davila as governor over all the lands and Indians discovered by Balboa. Balboa, who was the commander, re- signed all his interests to the new governor and un- dertook many important expeditions. His success created a jealous enmity on the part of Davila, and when Balboa learned of this feeling toward him he surrendered himself, thinking he would be given pro- tection. Instead of being protected, Balboa was tried for treason. In violation of all forms of justice he was beheaded at a place called Santa Maria, in 1517, just four years after his discovery of the Southern Sea. 14 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER 11 MAGELLAN PROJECT — THE FIRST TRIP AROUND THE WORLD, AND NAMING OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 1520. Topics — Magellan's Ambition. The Straits of Magellan. The Discovery of the Potato. Naming the Pacific. The story of Fernan Magellan's life and voyage of discovery had a direct influence on the history of California and its neighbors across the sea. Ma- gellan was born in Portugal near Oporto in 1481. When a lad he be- came ambitious to explore land and sea. He served his King in a number of exploits and then ^ I requested that he _^yjj, ^^ be sent westward ^^rr^r^^^^r"^- '-'" across the Atlantic to India. The King of The type of ship used by the daring Portugal WOUld not navigators on the early voyages of discovery listen to Magel- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 15 lan's proposal. He then went to Spain, and after much pleading, Charles V gave him five ships and he sailed from Spain in August, 1519. After several months the ship reached the coast of South America. The men were glad to be on land again where they could shoot the wild game and where they discovered many interesting things in the new country. There were monkeys, parrots and many strange birds, and one of the men found in the ground an oval-shaped tuber that resembled an Ital- ian chestnut. It was a potato. Sir John Hawkins, mentioned frequently in United States and English history, a few years later took the potato to Ireland and it became known as the Irish potato. On October 21, 1520, Magellan was delighted, for he had found the strait that now bears his name. After much trouble, due to storms and uncharted wa- ters, one of his ships that had sailed on ahead returned and saluted Magellan as follows: 'Traise God, we have found the outlet. We have seen the great ocean beyond." The men at once desired to sail out on the trackless and nameless ocean. This Magellan consented to do. One day while the sea was calm and the ship was making no progress, Magellan called his men to- gether and said: ''Comrades, we are on an unknown sea. No ship has ever sailed these gentle waters, four hundred years and more this body of water has I will christen this calm, quiet sea the Pacific." For 16 CALIFORNIA HISTORY been known as the Pacific Ocean, although it is not always gentle. After many hardships due to sickness and hunger, the ships reached the Philippine Islands, then known as Spice Islands, and Magellan converted many of the natives to Christianity. In a battle with some unfriendly savages Magellan was killed. Of the two hundred and twenty-six men who started on the voy- age only eighteen lived to return to Spain and only one ship, the V^ictoria, returned. Magellan was a daring man and his ship, Victoria, was the first to sail around the world. . CALIFORNIA HISTORY 17 CHAPTER III CORTES PROJECT— THE CONQUEST OF MEXICO AND ALL LANDS TO THE NORTH BY THE SPANIARDS FROM 1519 TO 1540. Topics — The Conquest of Mexico. The First Shipyard on the Pacific Coast, 1522. The First Settlement in Lower California at La Paz, 1535. The Origin and Derivation of the Name California. Eollowing the discovery of America by Columbus in 1492, Cortes with a small army sailed into the Mexican harbor of Vera Cruz in 1519. In order that his men should be successful and fight desperately if necessary, he ordered his ship to be burned. His little army then marched through the tropical jungle, up the steep mountain sides to table lands of the great valley in which the old Aztec city of Mexico is located. Montezuma, the Indian chieftain, was friendly, but he was killed and Cortes as conqueror assumed the title of ruler of all Mexico. It was not long until the urge came to him to make explora- tions to the north. The stories of the Straits of An- ian which, like the Straits of Magellan in the south, 18 CALIFORNIA HISTORY would open a new way in the north from the Pacific to the Atlantic, interested him. Then there were the Isles of the Amazon"* where nobody dwelt but wom- en, and stories of rich kingxloms, a terrestial paradise with cities of gold and other marvels that people of four centuries ago talked about. Is it any wonder that after he had established his new government in Mexico he planned for voyages of discovery in the north? In 1522 he founded the first shipyard at Zacatula on the Pacific Coast. After various difficulties and delays, ships were equipped and several unsuccessful voyages were made. Finally Cortes fitted out an ex- pedition under the command of Bercerra in 1533. The crew became dissatisfied and murdered Bercerra, and Fortun Jiminez was chosen as captain. The ship sail- ed into a harbor now known as La Paz, Lower Cal- ifornia. So far as is known, Jiminez was the first white man to set foot on California soil. He and twenty others were killed by the Indians. The men who survived returned and reported that there were islands of pearls in the vicinity of La Paz It was * "I shall journey in search of the Incan Isles, Go far and away to traditional land, _ Where love is que-en in a crown of smiles, And battle has never imbrued a hand; "Where man has never despoil'd or trod; Where woman's hand with a woman's heart Has fashion'd an Eden from man apart, And walks in her garden alon-e with God." — Joaquin Miller. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 19 this report that finally led Vizcaino fifty years later to make his important voyage. Cortes, not discouraged, fitted out and accompan- ied a new expedition of three ships in 1535 and sailed from Mexico. He landed at La Paz, named by Cortes, Santa Cruz, on May 3, 1535, and founded the first Spanish settlement in California. It was soon after this that the name California was applied to all the territory north of Mexico bordering on the sea, from the Gulf of Mexico to the mythical Straits of Anian. Pages have been written on the name, its derivation and when first applied. There are vari- ous theories about the origin of the name. There are some authorities that quote a romance of Ordonez de Montalvo, who published the story in four vol- umes between the years 1492 and 1534, in which ap- pears the name Queen Calafia of the Island Califor- nia. Others claim it was taken from two Latin words, "Calida Fornax", meaning hot furnace, or from the Spanish word of Catalan origin, Calif orno — hot oven ; Cal y Forno — lime — furnace. After making the settlement at La Paz, Cortes in 1539 sent out other expeditions. One, under com- mand of Ulloa, discovered that Baja California was not an island but a peninsula. In 1540 Cortes re- turned to Spain and died in 1547. He was the first of those great Spanish explorers who laid the foun- dation of a mighty civilization, not only of Califor- nia, but the entire west coast of America. 20 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER IV CABRILLO PROJECT— THE SEARCH FOR THE STRAITS OF ANIAN,- 1542. Topics — Discovery of the Bay of San Diego. Port Los Angeles. San Miguel. "Sail North." Cabrillo Not in Search of Gold. On the twenty-eighth of September, 1542, Cabrillo, a native of Portugal, sailed from Natividad on the coast of Mexico in search of the Straits of Anian, and with his two ships entered the beautiful and won- derful bay of San Diego. Here first on California's soil, Cabrillo walked the lonesome sands; Here first the Christian standard arose Upon the sea-washed Western lands, And Junipero Serra first laid loving hands. (From ''At San Diego Bay," by Madge Morris Wagner.) He named the bay San Miguel. He also gave to the bay of Magdalena and many of the other coast inlets and bays the names they now bear. Cabrillo remained in San Diego bay for six days and he and his men became friendly with the native Indians and gave them presents. The Indians in turn welcomed the strange men of the white race. By signs and other means they told of white men, * A mythical route by water, suggested by Marco Polo, which navigators were interested in discovering. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 21 OJ^AKe'S BAY: Cm9) SAA/ F£A/^C/SCO:CAYAlA-n7S / ^ \j onSfTip^S^nCeri'losV vA10AfT£/^BY: (VIZCAINO -fS96) SA/^TA BAflBAflAXCA&afLLO-/SAt} LOS ANCBLBS-CCABR/LIQ -JS4t) (CABBfUO -/S42) '(V/ZCAiNO ~^S96) Graphic map, showing the general routes of discoveries by sea, 1542-1679. 22 CALIFORNIA HISTORY referring no doubt to Coronado and others who had traveled into the land now known as Arizona and New Mexico. Cabrillo sailed up the coast. He gave names to many of the places where he anchored. At a little harbor at the island of San Miguel, near the present location of Santa Barbara, he fell and broke his arm. Although he sailed further north he was taken seri- ously ill, due to the fact that his injured arm did not have proper medical attention, and returned to San Miguel, where he died. His last words to his faithful crew were ''Sail north". The pilot, Ferrelo, took charge of the ship and sailed north past the greatest harbor on the Pacific Coast, San Francisco Bay. He sailed on until he reached the Oregon coast, where he encountered severe storms. Many of his crew died from exposure. They were forced to re- turn, and after many hardships the men reached port in Mexico. Cabrillo's discovery of the coast of California is one of greatest historical importance. He was a brave man. He was not in search of gold and plun- der like so many of the daring adventurers and dis- coverers of his time. His record of friendship with the natives and the diaries kept by his men show him to be a man of true courage and with a desire to be of service to mankind. California should erect a great monument to this hero of peaceful exploration. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 23 CHAPTER V VACA PROJECT— CABEZA DE VACA, OR THE SEARCH FOR THE FABLED CITIES OF CIBOLA. Topics — The Discovery and Settlement of Territory by the Spaniards, inland. Friar Marcos and His Imag- ination. The ''Northern Mystery", the Straits of Anian, stimulated the voyages of discovery of Cabrillo, Cor- tes, Coronado, who explored the Colorado territory in 1541, and many others. The legend of the fabled isles of the Amazon, like the Fountain of Youth of Ponce de Leon, lured men on to daring adventures. The Seven Cities of Cibola also played an important part in the exploration and settlement of territory by the Spaniards in Arizona, New Mexico and fur- ther north. It is reported that some of the Spaniards went as far north as what we know as South Dakota. The legend of the ''Seven Cities" is as follows: Cabeza de Vaca, who was in 1528 with Narvaez in Florida, but escaped when so many of the ill-fated expedition were killed, made a perilous trip from Florida across the section of country now known as 24 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Texas, New Mexico and Arizona, and into Mexico, where he told the wonderful story of his perilous adventures, including his capture by Indians and his escape. He described the Seven Cities of Cibola, of which he had heard on his journey. Vaca did not actually see the cities, but passed near them. The Seven Cit- ies of gold stimulated many adventures. Cortes, the Viceroy of Mexico, in 1539 sent Friar Marcos and a negro servant to search for the Cities. The In- dians were hostile, the negro was killed, and Friar Marcos, after enduring many hardships, returned. Friar Marcos is supposed to have had a vivid imag- ination and described the Cities as larger than the City of Mexico, and that the roofs of the houses and the domes of the large buildings were of gold. John S. McGroarty, who has made a special study of the Seven Cities of Cibola, says that Friar Marcos was not a liar, that he probably saw a Moqui Indian vil- lage in the distance with the golden afterglow of the sun on its glistening walls. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 25 CHAPTER VI VIZCAINO PROJECT — THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF MONTEREY IN 1596-1602. Topics — In Search of Pearl Fisheries. The Change of Name of Bay of San Miguel to Bay of San Diego. The Discovery and Naming of the Bay of Monterey in Honor of Conde de Monterey, Viceroy of Mexico. For nearly fifty years after Cortes returned to Spain there were no important developments in the way of new discoveries on the California coast by Spaniards. Then in 1596 Vizcaino, a merchant, se- cured permission of the viceroy of Mexico, Conde de Monterey, to fit out an expedition to sail to Califor- nia to take possession of the pearl fisheries in Baja California. He sailed from Acapulco, and entered the harbor of Santa Cruz, which he named La Paz (peace). He arrived in August and in October sailed north, but on account of storms, lack of provisions and hostile Indians he returned to new Spain. He reported, however, that " Pearls were abundant ", that 'The waters were richer in fish than any other known". He also described 'Towns of people wear- 26 CALIFORNIA HISTORY ing clothes, and who have golden ornaments in their ears and noses". Vizcaino wanted to make another voyage, but he could not get the consent of the vice- roy. It was not until the year 1602 that the expe- dition was ready. He was provided with three ships and about two hundred men, sailors and soldiers. The Government ordered him to make a thorough exploration of the coast from Cape San Lucas to Cape Mendocino. He was ordered, however, to make no settlements, and to avoid conflicts with the In- dians. Vizcaino anchored in the Bay of San Miguel and gave it the name of San Diego. From this port he sailed north through the Santa Barbara channel and up the coast until he discovered the bay which was named by him Monterey in honor of the Viceroy of New Spain. They also named the Carmelo River. The discovery of Monterey Bay, however, was the most important event of the voyage. They reported the Bay of Monterey as such a wonderful harbor that for many years after men went in search of the sheltered bay described by Vizcaino and his men. Vizcaino had many hardships. He sailed north as far as Cape Mendocino. The cold was intense, many of his men were sick, and after sailing still farther north, he returned and sailed south, and after many hardships, and with forty to fifty deaths among the men of his crew, he reached New Spain. He was given special honors as the discoverer of the Bay of Monterey. For nearly one hundred and fifty years CALIFORNIA HISTORY 27 California in silent grandeur was undisturbed by aliens in search of gold, or explorations of any kind. It was not until 1768, when Jose de Galvez began to be interested in Alta California, that the romantic days of the Spanish settlements and the uplift by the padres began. 28 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER VII SIR FRANCIS DRAKE PROJECT — IN SEARCH OF GOLD AND THE "STRAITS OF ANIAN" OR THE NORTHWEST PASSAGE, 1577-1596. Topics — The Beginning of Great Britain's Interest in the Pacific Ocean and the Lands Bordering Thereon. Drake's Bay, and the Description of the Animals. The First Protestant Religious Service in California. The First English ship to Sail Around the World. The Golden Hind. New Albion. "THE SPACIOUS TIMES OF QUEEN ELIZABETH" Francis Drake was born in Devonshire, England, in 1539. He was a cousin of John Hawkins, the sea captain. He had heard stories of Columbus, Magel- lan, Balboa, Cabrillo, Cortes and others, and was ambitious to become a sea captain and a discoverer. England and Spain were at war. In a few years Drake was the commander of a fine ship. He sailed to Darien and, believing it was right to plunder towns and vessels which belonged to the Spaniards, he be- came rich. Having crossed the Isthmus of Darien and having CALIFORNIA HISTORY 29 Sir Francis Drake seen the great Pacific Ocean, he was determined to sail the unknown sea and find the Straits of Anian or a northern passage to the Atlantic. He returned to England, and with the aid of Queen Elizabeth fitted 30 CALIFORNIA HISTORY out five vessels, and in 1577 sailed for the Pacific by way of the Straits of Magellan. Drake's favorite ship was the Golden Hind, the first English vessel to pass through the Straits of Magellan, The Golden Hind sailed up the coast of California alone. The other ships had deserted. The chaplain on the vessel kept a record of the voyage, and he tells in his reports that they reached a point where there was so much snow and ice and the weath- er was so cold that they returned south and anchored at what is known as Drake's Bay near Point Reyes. Drake's Bay Here is an inlet of that bay in which the English explorer spent several weeks. What was then a waste is now a rich dairying region CALIFORNIA HISTORY 31 It is supposed that he did not see the entrance to the Golden Gate. Drake's ship remained over a month at Point Reyes. Chaplain Fletcher held at this point the first Protestant religious service in California, and in Gol- den Gate Park, San Francisco, now stands the Prayer Book Cross, erected by George W. Childs of Phila- delphia as a memorial of this event. Drake made a journey inland and saw fat deer and thousands of queer little animals. They had tails like rats and jaws like moles. The men ate them and coats were made of the skins. All of California was named by Drake New Albion because of its white cliffs and because Albion was a name often applied to England. The Golden Hind next sailed west, past Asia and Africa, and reached England two years and ten months after leaving. To honor Drake as the first Englishman to sail around the world, Queen Eliza- beth visited him on the Golden Hind and gave him a title, the Queen say- ing, ''Arise, Sir Fran- cis Drake." He contin- ued to fight the Spanish and was one of the bravest commanders in the destruction of the Spanish fleet, the Ar- Nombre de Dios, Isthmus of Pan- ,..^/\^ t„ i cq/c u„ ^^ ama, near where Drake died. maaa. in lOVO ne re- 32 CALIFORNIA HISTORY turned to the Isthmus of Panama, where he was taken sick and soon after died. Sir Francis Drake was buried in the waters he loved so well near Nombre de Dios. The Golden Hind was ordered preserved, and was kept over one hun- dred years, but it has long since decayed. A chair made of its timbers was given by Charles II to Ox- ford University, where it may be seen as a memorial of the first English ship to visit our California shores. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 33 CHAPTER VIII THE SPANISH SETTLEMENTS PROJECT — THE SETTLEMENT OF CALIFORNIA BY THE SPANIARDS, 1769 TO 1815. Topics — Portola and Serra's Trip from Velicata, Lower California, to San Diego. The Founding of the First Mission in California on July 16, 1769, at San Diego. Portola's Journey in Search of the Bay of Monterey. The Establishment of El Camino Real. The Nam- ing of the Los Angeles River and the Founding of the Pueblo of Los Angeles. The Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco. The Establishment of Carmel Mission, Fermin Francisco Lasuen, and the Establishment of Missions. Father Kino and Father Salvatierra, members of the Jesuits, estabhshed missions about the year of 1700 in Lower CaHfornia and in Arizona. For nearly seventy years there were no attempts to settle the land that Cabrillo, Vizcamo and Drake discovered. In 1769 Jose de Galvez, the Governor of Sonora, heard of the Russian fur traders and others who were approaching Alta California from the north, and in order that he might hold this territory for Spain, 34 CALIFORNIA HISTORY PO^TOLA • /769 ANZA TRAiL-/774-S' OJ2£.m/GeA/Vr TflA/L Fremont's /tr £xp£0. F/lEMOm'S J5? EXPBD. ■•JEOBDIAH SMITH'S l^ EXPEO. /QZS^ -*JEDEl>lAy SK'THS Z^E%PED- /8Z7 Overland trails, showing the routes taken by explorers from 1769 to 1846. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 35 decided to send an expedition by land and sea to set- tle California and to hold the land for his King, and to prevent Russia, France and other nations from getting a foothold. Galvez, in person, arranged all the plans for the trip north. The leaders who were selected to go were Caspar de Portola, Covernor of Lower California; Rivera, Commander of the sol- diers; Fages, who afterward became Governor of California; Costanso, an engineer; Dr. Prat, a phy- sician, and Father Serra, who was to be in charge of the missions, and his two able assistants, Father Crespi and Father Palou. Crespi and Palou had come with Serra from Spain thirty years before and were inti- mately associated with him in his great work as mis- sionary. When the time arrived to make the start Galvez had arranged for four separate parties. First was the ship San Carlos, loaded with men and pro- visions; then the San Antonio and the supply ship San Jose. They had a hard voyage on account of the storms, and were greatly delayed in reaching the port of San Diego. There w^as much sickness on board and many of the men died during the voyage. The supply ship, San Jose, is supposed to have been lost in a storm, as it was never heard of again. The land party also had a difficult trip. The distance from the mission Velicata in Lower California from where they started to San Diego by trail has been variously estimated at from three hundred to four ?>6 CALIFORNIA HISTORY hundred miles. Captain Rivera began the journey on March 24, 1769. He had twenty-five soldiers, three mule drivers, and about forty Indians. Food and water were scarce. There were no trails, and mountain lions frightened them. It took Captain Rivera fifty-two days to reach San Diego. They had a hard and difficult trip and hailed with delight the appearance of one of the ships in the Bay of San Diego, but they were disappointed and saddened when they learned that so many on board were sick and others had died. Portola, Fages, Ortega, Father Serra and party with much stock started from Velicata, Lower Cali- fornia, to follow the trail made by Rivera to San Diego. Serra on this, as in all of his other trips, proved himself to be a man of splendid endurance, a keen lover of nature and interested in the trees, flowers and Indians, and the wild and romantic scenes of the new country. He had a lame foot and suffered great pain, but he was neither discouraged nor did he complain. They arrived at San Diego July 1st, having been on the road forty-eight days. All of the party survived the trip, except several of the Indians who deserted or died. They were joined at San Diego Bay by Rivera and his party and by those of the San Carlos and San Antonio who sur- vived the voyage by sea. On July 16, 1769, Father Junipero Serra established the mission of San Diego wath appropriate ceremonies. It was the first mis- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 37 sion established in California, and marked the be- ginning of history in California in the period of Spanish development. In view of the fact that Gal- vez had ordered Portola to find the port of Mon- terey, he at once began to organize a party to pro- ceed north overland, until they came to the port of Monte- rey, where, according to instruction, they were to establish a settlement. Among the people that Portola took with him were Pedro Am- ador, after whom Amador County is named ; Ortega, path- The Cross erected on the hill above San Diego Bay back of Old Town where Junipero Serra first held religious services in California finder and discoverer of the Golden Gate and the Bay of San Francisco ; Alvarado, grandfather of Governor Alvarado of California; Carrillo, afterwards Com- mander at Monterey, Santa Clara and San Diego, and founder of a celebrated Spanish family in California ; and Pages, afterward an interesting figure in history as Governor of California. It was an interesting group of men starting to tramp a distance of more than 500 miles, without roads, trails or paths. Father Crespi, who was with the party, kept a diary and he wrote down everything that happened. 38 CALIFORNIA HISTORY At the head rode Fages, the commander; Cos- tanso, the engineer; two priests, and six others. Then came Indians, with spades and axes. These were followed by pack trains in four sections; last was the rear guard, with Captain Rivera and Gov- ernor Portola. Each soldier had defensive weapons; for instance, his arms were wrapped with leather so that the Indians' spears and arrows could not hurt him, and then a leathern apron that fell on each side of the horse over his legs, to protect them when rid- ing through brush. Each soldier carried a lance, a sword and a short musket. The men were fine horse- men and good soldiers. Traveling slowly, not over five or six miles per day, the greatest difficulty was with the horses. It is said that a coyote or fox or even wild birds would frighten the horses so they would run away. The trip was along what is now known as El Camino Real, the King's Highway. "Half the length of California In the sunshine and the shade, Past th-e old Franciscan missions, Runs the road the padres made." — Ben Field; (From A Dream of Old Camino Real.) It took them four days to reach San Luis Rey, where the mission now is. They rested four days at San Juan Capistrano. On the 28th day of July they reach- ed the Santa Ana River and experienced a terrible earthquake shock. They crossed the Los Angeles River, where the city of Los Angeles now stands, and gave it its name. The city itself was not founded CALIFORNIA HISTORY 39 Twin Palms of San Fernando These adobe walls are part of the enclosure which, built to a height of some ten feet, ran for several miles about the mission grounds. The palms were planted by the padres, and in the dim hills beyond gold was first discovered in California. 40 CALIFORNIA HISTORY until 1781, when the full name, Nuestra Senora La Reina de Los Angeles (''Our Lady the Queen of the Angels"), was given to it. They gave the San Fer- nando Valley the pretty name of ''Valley of St. Cath- erine of the Oaks." Portola crossed another river near where Camulos now is and named it Santa Clara in honor of the saint whose day they celebrated on August 12th. Then they marched, on and on, across many rivers, and over mountains. The Indians in the rancherias welcomed them and gave them food, and showed them how they made boats and imple- ments of various kinds. They passed through where Santa Barbara now is and on to San Luis Obispo. Here were many Indians. Their big chief had a tumor on his neck and the men called him and the place El Buchon. Father Crespi did not like the name, but Point Buchon and Mount Buchon, "Bald Knob" show how names will remain. The men were taken sick and their way to the Salinas Valley was rough and hard. Many of the men were afflicted with scurvy, a disease brought on by not eating enough vegetables. On the last day of September the men halted near the mouth of the Salinas River, within sound of the ocean, but could not see it. Portola now sent out scouts to look for the Bay of Monterey; but after a long search, and seeing the sand dunes and the pines, failed to recognize the bay. A coun- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 41 cil was called; Portola told of the shortness of pro- visions and the danger of winter coming on, with danger that all might perish. Costanso said they must travel farther north. Rivera thought they should go and find a camp. If Monterey were not found, they would discover some other place where they could settle. So Portola determined to put his trust in God and move forward. Sixteen of the men were so sick they had to be lifted on and off the horses. The march was slow and painful. Coming to a river, the Indians killed an eagle with wings that reached seven feet four inches from tip to tip. Father Crespi called the river Santa Ana, but the people called it Pajaro, ''the Bird". This happened near the present city of Watsonville. On the 17th of October they passed through the section where is now located the beautiful town of Santa Cruz, and at Waddell Creek both Portola and Rivera were taken sick. At San Gregorio it began to rain and aU sick- ened, but strange to say the new ailments relieved the scurvy and they were able to press forward. They marched along Half Moon Bay and up along the coast, reaching the foot of Montara Mountains on October 30th. The site of their camp is about a mile north of Montara light house. They named the camp El Rincon de La Almejas on account of the mussels and other shell fish found there. Ortega and his men were sent out to find a way over the 42 CALIFORNIA HISTORY mountains, and in a few days Ortega returned and told of seeing a great arm of the sea that thrust it- self into the land as far as the eye could reach. He was the first white man to see the Golden Gate and the Bay of San Francisco, which has become so famous in song and story and in the commercial life of the West. Portola and his men now crossed into the San Pe- dro Valley, marched over to the bay side and camped again near the site of Stanford University. After many hardships Portola and his companions were welcomed back to San Diego. On the way they were forced to kill mules and eat the flesh to keep from starving. They reached San Diego on January 18th, and reported that they searched for Monterey Bay in vain. After resting until April 17, 1770, Portola set out again for the Bay of Monterey, this time on the ship San Carlos. And on this, the second, trip they found it. On May 24th they camped on the shores of Monterey Bay. Portola, Fages and Father Crespi noted the calm and placid water, the seals, and spouting whales, and all said: 'This is the port of Monterey. It is as reported by Vizcaino." On the 3rd of June, 1770, under the shelter of the branches of an oak tree, Portola established a pre- sidio, and as the first Governor of California, in the name of the King of Spain took possession of the country. Thus was established the first presidio in California. On July 9th, 1770, Portola sailed for CALIFORNIA HISTORY 43 44 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Mexico, and afterwards became Governor of Puebla, Mexico. Portola and his men opened the way for the found- ing of the missions. Junipero Serra and his follow- ers built missions in the most beautiful places from San Gabriel Arcangel. Founded on September 8, 1771, by Padres Somera and Cambon About six miles from the present site. This Mission has both current and historical interest, for in this locality Portola, Serra, Anza, Lasuen, Fages and later Pico, Kearny and Fremont were active, and at present it is the home of "The Mission Play." San Diego to Sonoma, and after a lapse of more than one hundred and fifty years, many of them still stand as landmarks of the devotion of the Span- ish pioneers. The founders in the selection of sites chose the most attractive places and adopted a style of archi- tecture which is the basis of some of our handsomest CALIFORNIA HISTORY 45 modern buildings. Among our finest examples are the buildings of Stanford University, and many of the modern high school buildings. The buildings have the color and atmosphere of California, and seem to have grown up out of the brown soil. The soft dove- color of the adobe walls, the red-brown tiles of the roof, the olive leaves on the trees, the violet haze of the distant mountains, the tawny hue of the hills, all harmonize with each other. Serra established the first mission in what is now known as Old San Diego, near where the twm palms now stand, and mass was celebrated. This mission was removed in 1774 to a site on the San Diego River about three miles from the bay. Here palm trees were planted, an olive orchard started, and ground cultivated, and many of the Indians were converted to Christianity. Part of the walls of this mission are still standing. The padres at this mis- sion also built the first irrigation dam and ditch. On November 4, 1775, the Indians revolted against the Spanish and 800 of them attacked the mission. Father Louis Jayme and several others were killed, and the mission burned. The soldiers and settlers, however, fought bravely, and in the morning the In- dians picked up their dead and wounded and marched away and never renewed the attack. On April 16, 1770, Junipero Serra sailed for the port of Monterey. He landed on the morning of June 3, 1770, and under an oak tree an altar was 46 CALIFORNIA HISTORY The Mission Santa Barbara Founded December 4, 1786, by Fermin Lasuen. It is a good type of Mission architecture and is visited by thou- sands of tourists each year. built, the mission bells hung and service was held. Serra in alb and stole asked the blessing of heaven on their work, and on June 3, 1770, a great cross was erected and the historic Mission San Carlos Borromeo, or Carmel Mission, w^as started. In 1771 the mission was changed from the beach to its present location. The beautiful wild roses, the roses of Castile, grew all about it. The Monterey cypress, the forest of pines, the Carmel River, the quiet crescent-shaped bay, marked it as one of the most attractive places in California. The missions were founded by the order known as the Franciscans, and when these settlements were made and the news of the conquest reached Old and New Spain, the bells of the cathedral rang in tune CALIFORNIA HISTORY 47 with those of Monterey, San Diego and San Gabriel. Father Serra devoted his hfe to the estabhsh- ment and care of the missions. He died at the age of seventy, August 28, 1784. The tourist of today finds a melancholy interest in the crumbling adobe walls of the missions. Father Palou wrote of the life and work of Junipero Serra in such a careful and excellent a manner that it has been used as a source of history for many writers. A monument has been erected to Serra's memory. It is located on a hill overlooking the Bay of Monterey. Fermin Francisco Lasuen was a noted missionary. Fie was placed in charge of San Gabriel in 1773 and under his care it became very prosperous and suc- cessful. Father Lasuen also, in company with Or- tega, who discovered the Bay of San Francisco, founded the Mission of San Juan Capistrano, one of The Mission San Juan Bautista Founded on June 24, 1797, by Fermin Francisco Lasuen 48 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 49 the most noted missions, on account of the attract- iveness of its location and its romantic history. In 1785 Father Lasuen became Father President of all the missions, and during his eighteen years of ser- vice the missions were prosperous. It was under his direction that Santa Barbara, Soledad, Santa Cruz, San Juan, San Miguel, San Fernando and San Luis Rey were established. He was present at the inau- guration of each one of these missions. This would not mean much in this generation of automobiles and airplanes, but in the days of Father Lasuen it meant the travel over trails of hundreds of miles on horse- back or afoot. Father Lasuen also officially sent to Spain for artisans and introduced practical manual training in the schools and missions, and imported olive and orange trees and vines from Spain and was the founder of our great modern fruit industries. For a man nearly eighty years of age he was pro- gressive, and his achievements were of an high order. He died at the age of eighty-three in 1803 and was buried at Mission San Carlos. As a mission founder, as an administrator, he deserves great honor for his achievements. Like the majority of missionaries he died very poor. 50 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Juan Bautista Anza, who brought the first settlers to California overland from Mexico in 1775 and who selected the site of the present city of San Francisco CALIFORNIA HISTORY 51 CHAPTER IX JUAN BAUTISTA ANZA PROJECT— THE FOUNDING OF SAN FRANCISCO, 1774 TO 1775. Topics — The First Ship to Enter the Golden Gate. The First Trip Overland from Mexico. The First Women and Children to Settle in California. Anza's Equip- ment. The Arrival at San Gabriel. The Location of the Presidio of Yerba Buena, now San Francisco, Sep- tember, 1776. After the good ship San Carlos had brought Por- tola and Serra to Monterey Bay from San Diego, its commander, Ayala, was ordered to sail and search for the port of San Francisco. On August 5, 1775, the San Carlos sailed through the narrow channel into the Bay of San Francisco, now known as one of the finest ports in all the world. They remained in the bay for forty days and made a careful note of the various points visited, and then returned to Monterey. In Sonora, Mexico, Juan Bautista Anza, a man of fine intelligence and great courage, was planning a route to California by land. After long delays 52 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Anza started on January 8, 1774, on his first trip from Tubac, not far from where Tucson is now located. Anza was the first man to take the trip overland from Mexico, crossing the desert. Other explorers travelled by water up the coast. He was the first man to have women and children in his party and so skillful was he in handling the difficulties he had to encounter that the records of his expeditions are some of the most remarkable in history. The rec- ords of deaths by exposure, starvation and sickness of various kinds were so low that Anza's trips stand out as remarkable achievements. In the first trip there were thirty-four men, thirty- five pack loads of provisions and sixty-five head of cattle and one hundred and forty horses. Crossing the Colorado River at Yuma, they found friendly Indians. Anza, however, found the sand dunes im- passable, and after making attempts until his men and animals were exhausted he turned to the south- west, leaving some of his men and his baggage with Palma, a friendly Indian chief. After six days' hard travelling across the desert he came to San Carlos Pass near Borega Springs in the Sierra Nevada range. Crossing, he soon came in view of the San Jacinto Valley, and the wonderful plains that since have become the homes of a prosperous and happy people. After a trip of several hundred miles he reached the Mission San Gabriel. There he rested CALIFORNIA HISTORY 53 and later returned to Tubac, delighted that he had found a route overland from Mexico to California. On his return Anza immediately began arrange- ments with Bucareli, the viceroy of Mexico, to take a party of colonists to settle in the vicinity of the Bay of San Francisco. Under the direction of the viceroy Anza gathered at Tubac a company of two hundred and fifty persons and started on October 23, 1775. In his book, ''A History of California, The Span- ish Period,'' Charles E. Chapman tells of the trip: ''Anza recruited most of his colonists from fam- ilies 'submerged in poverty' in Sinaloa. Gathering his company at Horcasitas, he proceeded to Tubac, where on October 23, 1775, the whole force got un- der way. The roster of the expedition as it left Tubac is worth quoting: "Lieutenant-Colonel Anza 1 Fathers Font, Garces and Eixarch 3 The purveyor, Mariano Vidal 1 Lieutenant Jose Joaquin Moraga 1 Sergeant Juan Pablo Grijalva 1 Veteran soldiers from the presidios of So- nora 8 Recruits 20 Veterans from Tubac, Anza's escort 10 Wives of the soldiers 29 Persons of both sexes belonging to families of the said thirty soldiers and four other 54 CALIFORNIA HISTORY families of colonists 136 Muleteers 20 Herders of beef-cattle 3 Servants of the fathers 4 Indian interpreters 3 Total 240 "Of the thirty soldiers who intended to remain in Alta California, Lieutenant Moraga was the only one unaccompanied by his wife. Anza's care of this mixed assemblage made his expedition one of the most remarkable in the annals of exploration. Start- ing with a party of 240, he faced the hardships and dangers of the march with such wisdom and cour- age that he arrived in Alta California with 244 ! No fewer than eight children were born in the course of the expedition, three of them prior to the arrival at Tubac. The day of the departure from Tubac one mother died in childbirth — the only loss of the whole journey, for even the babes in arms survived both the desert and the mountain snows. When one thinks of the scores that lost their lives in the days of '49 over these same trails, Anza's skill as a front- iersman stands revealed. Furthermore, over a thou- sand animals were included in the expedition. The loss among these was considerable, but enough of them lived to supply Alta California's long-press- ing want. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 55 "A very heavy equipment was taken along, all of it, even the ribbons in the women's hair, being pro- vided at government expense. Anza had warned the viceroy that it would be necessary not only to do this but also to pay the men in clothing and out- fit instead of cash, since they were habitual gamb- lers. Of such seemingly unpromising materials were the men, who, certainly without their knowledge, were about to play a part in one of the most impor- tant acts on the stage of American history. ''The prices of their outfit are enough to make one sigh for 'the good old days'. Petticoats, relatively, were expensive; they cost about $1.50 each. Wom- en's shoes were $.75, and so, too, women's hats! Each woman got six yards of ribbon, at twelve cents a yard. Boys' hats were only fifty cents apiece, but girls' hats were the cheapest of all; the girls were supposed to require nothing more than the hair of their heads. And so it went; for men, women and children clothing of every sort and kind, arms, rid- ing horses and rations were provided, and all at what now seems to have been an astonishingly low cost. One undemocratic note is to be observed. The fare of thirty families was of the plainest, and its esti- mated cost for the entire expedition amounted only to $1957. On the other hand, Anza and Father Font were to have such edibles as beans, sausage, biscuit, fine chocolate, a barrel of wine, cheese, pepper, saf- fron, cloves, cinnamon, oil and vinegar at a cost of 56 CALIFORNIA HISTORY $2232.50 — more than the expense for the thirty fam- ihes. Anza protested against this allotment when it was proposed, but it may be imagined that his ob- jections were somewhat perfunctory, for the arrange- ment was entirely in accord with the ideas of the day." The party under Anza's leadership had travelled thirty-seven days when they reached the junction of the Colorado River. Here there was difficulty in crossing, for the place where Anza had crossed in 1774 had deepened so that it was impossible to get over. The Indians knew of no other ford, but Anza made a search himself and found a place where the river divided into three shallow branches. The thick- ets were cleared away and the crossing was made in one day. The Yuma Indians amongst whom the travellers stayed for a few days were very friendly. Garces and Eixarch remained with the Yumas with three interpreters and four servants for purposes of ex- ploration. The march was resumed by Anza in a few days and the Colorado desert was reached. Here Anza, profiting by the knowledge gained from cross- ing the desert on his previous trip, divided his party into three divisions and gave them orders to march on different days. This was in order to be sure of water, as the waterholes would have time to refill if not drawn upon for a few days. The third division was under the command of Mo- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 57 raga and suffered great hardships. Moraga suffered severely from pains in his head and he later became totally deaf. The mountains which the party had to cross were covered with snow; the weather was extremely cold and it rained and snowed much of the time. How cheering it was to reach the summit of the mountains and begin the descent to the beau- tiful valley which lay at the foot. The march was continued to San Gabriel, which was reached Jan- uary 4, 1776. The arrival in San Gabriel was timely, for there had been a number of Indian uprisings against the Spaniards, killing them or driving them out of the country. The revolt at San Diego, in which Father Jayme and others were killed, had just occurred. There were thousands of Indians and only a few Spaniards, and it would have been possible at this time to have ended the Spanish settlements. Anza saved California for the Spaniards and eventually for the United States. Anza was on the way to the Bay of San Francisco, but upon hearing of the trou- ble he gave up his plans and marched to San Diego with his men, where his arrival was regarded as providential. As soon as it was considered that no further dan- ger was to be feared, Anza and his party began their journey to San Francisco Bay. They reached the Bay of Monterey March 10, 1776, and on March 23 arrived on the present site of San Francisco. Anza 58 CALIFORNIA HISTORY at once made a survey for water and wood and sites for a fort and mission. He selected a site near where Fort Scott now is, and for a mission, the present site of the Mission Dolores. On September 17, 1776, the presidio was located with proper ceremonies. It was on October 9, 1776, that Mission San Francisco de Asisis (Dolores) was formally dedicated. While these events were taking place on the Pa- cific Coast, on the Atlantic Coast the Declaration of Independence had but a few months before been signed, and the great events of the Revolutionary War were changing the destiny of the world, just as Anza and his few soldiers and colonists were changing the destiny of California. With Anza were men and women who contributed much to later California history, and cities, towns, streets, rivers and mountains have been named in their honor, perpetuating their memory. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 59 CHAPTER X THE INDIANS OF CALIFORNIA PROJECT — A STUDY OF THE NATIVE INDIAN TRIBES, FROM 1769 TO 1922. Topics — A Description of the Indians as the Spaniards Found Them. Indian Customs. The Food, Clothing and Shelter of the Indians. The Mission Indians. The Various Industries Taught the Indians. Changes in Style of Living. The Indians Under the Mexican Gov- ernors. The Indians of California Under the Govern- ment of the United States. When, after 1769, the Spanish explorers came to CaHfornia and an attempt at settlement was made, they found many Indian inhabitants Their number is estimated at from 133,000 by some historians to 700,000 by others. They were barbarians, living on the wild fruits and berries they could gather and wearing next to no clothing and living in the mean- est kind of homes. Each tribe spoke a different language and at least twenty-one different languages v/ere heard, not counting the dialects. The Indians who lived near the sea coast, and in the great interior valleys, seemed to be of an infe- rior order. Many of the smaller tribes who made 60 CALIFORNIA HISTORY their homes in the lower mountain valleys, particu- larly those in the vicinity of Mt. Shasta, were not only different in appearance but displayed more in- telligence. The men were of greater stature, and were brave and warlike. They took better care of the women of their tribe. But the coast and valley Indians were different. They lived in small villages and had many cus- toms and habits which we today think are very curious, but California had so much in the way of nature's bounty that there was no inducement to struggle for a living. Though they were barbarians, the majority were not savage and they did not op- pose the Spanish settlement, though they might easily have done so. When the Franciscan missions were established, the Indians proved to be gentle and adap- table. Although they had made no progress for themselves in civilization, they were capable of learn- ing readily all the mission fathers taught them. In- dians in other parts of North America were far more war-like than the California Indians. An Indian chief gained his position either by he- redity or by having more wealth than any other In- dian in the village. Shells or skins were used for money, and by payment of a goodly supply of these, an offender could be excused from many a crime. In the home, the man was the head of the house. There were a few tribal religious laws that all must obey. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 61 Old Felicita. This is a photograph of old Felicita, who is a direct descendant of the Indians who met Portola and Father Serra at San Diego in 1720. She re- members the battle of San Pasqual and many- other incidents of California's early history. "No dawn I see, no rising sun — alas, my people!" 62 CALIFORNIA HISTORY The Indians' clothing depended upon the chmate. When it was cold the skins of animals were worn. In the warm weather the men wore a loin cloth and the women wore grass skirts which extended from the waist to the knees. Decorations in the way of tattooing were lavish. Such grotesque markings as they smeared on their faces, necks, breasts and bod- ies ! This they thought would scare away the evil spirits. Decorations — we might call them jewels — were made of bone, shells and wood and worn in the ears, on the neck, or around the wrists or waist. Building a home was the least of the Indians' troubles. The cone-shaped wigwam held in place by poles and covered with skins was one type of home. A hole in the top let out the smoke and let in the fresh air. In some of the coast sections, around Santa Barbara for instance, huts of willows, tules and mud were built. In the San Joaquin Valley often a bush or a tree served for shelter. These people were not energetic. They did not care for the work of hunting for food. They did not have domestic animals or raise crops. They ate that which was nearest at hand. The Indians used for meat skunks, snakes, lizards, frogs, rats, mice and grasshoppers. These last were a true delicacy. They could be dried, mashed or roasted. Fish were caught along the coast and rivers, and often eaten raw. Bear meat and wild game were not eaten, for the principal reason that they were too hard to catch. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 63 A basket made by the Tahoe Indians, (From photograph by George Wharton James) Then, too, the In- dians thought the wild animals must be possessed with evil spirits because they were so fero- cious, and they feared that they, too, would be pos- sessed if they should eat of that meat. Acorns were ground into flour for bread by the use of two rocks. Seeds, grasses, herbs, roots and berries were all eaten. The pine nut and acorn were the staple food of the Indians who lived in the foot- hills of the Sierras. This simple man- ner of living did not make work, the wo- men doing what little there was to do. They hunted for food and made what clothing was necessary. They made waterproof bas- ^^B^^^^, * ® ^ WIHJI Bi*p -:-^iM ^^m B^fc'"^fc ;:^ '■- \Mi'^- ^^^H^^SM, ^':B:^--sMki:l~'.. l^^^^Hi^9^^S:£?^£-:^K^,„.. ■■i ■■1 (From photograph by George Wharton James) A basket made by the native Indian. kets and stone cooking vessels. When they were near water, as around San Francisco Bay, they paddled on the water in rafts made of tules. 64 CALIFORNIA HISTORY The male Indians' one task was to do the fighting in time of war. Wars among themselves were often caused by disputes over acorn groves, or through a tribe preventing the salmon from going up the stream by building a weir, and other similar troubles. Then again one tribe plundered another; or religion might be a cause of war, as a medicine man often accused another of practicing sorcery or magic among the people. In case of war a herald was sent in advance and the time and place of battle were determined upon. The hands, head and feet were often cut from a dead enemy and saved as trophies. If the enemy had been very brave in lifetime, sometimes his con- queror would eat a bit of him, hoping to get some of the bravery. Seldom did these Indians scalp one another. Prisoners of war were killed. Slavery ex- isted little, if at all. Perhaps one reason for this was that there was no work for slaves to do. The Indians had many filthy habits. They were far from clean, and their houses were dirty. Often they piled dried fish around the walls of their houses to keep from season to season, and the resulting odor may be imagined. Unclean habits caused many diseases. The med- icine man, when an Indian was ill, cared for the pa- tient. He had many methods. One of them was to bark at the patient until he had discovered the cause of the sickness. Sometimes he treated the ailing per- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 65 son, or he might place him in an underground room, build a hot fire and cause him to perspire freely; then he brought him out and made him jump into cold water. When an Indian died his body was cremated. The ashes were mixed with grease. The paste this made was painted on the face of the mourner. There it stayed until it naturally wore off, ending the period of mourning. The Indians were religious in their way. They had their laws and tried to obey them. They be- lieved in many gods, demons and spirits, both good and bad. Everything in nature meant something to them. They were children of Nature and worshiped at her shrine. The rustling of the leaves in the wind, the shooting of stars in the sky, all had meanings to them. There were many dances and ceremonials and in many of them the men only were allowed to take part. One of the Indian ceremonials in worshiping their deity was the smoking of the pipe. The smoke curl- ing upwards typified the ascent of their prayers to their gods. Dancing, praying and singing were en- ergetically indulged in. They thought that dancing- called the attention of the gods to them, and when once they had gained this attention the prayers and petitions could be presented to the Great Spirit. Many myths and legends have been passed down by word of mouth to the Indians of today. They 66 CALIFORNIA HISTORY are curious and interesting stories, and are studies in themselves. THE MISSION INDIANS What a change was wrought in this style of liv- ing when the kindly Franciscan padres came from Mexico to begin settlements and to convert the Indians ! Twenty-one missions were established by the Fran- ciscan fathers. They extended from San Diego to Sonoma and were located in fertile and beautiful spots. Here churches were built and Indians gath- ered around the mission. They were taught to build their homes, to earn their food, to grow their crops, herd their flocks, and to be clean, and, above all, they were Christianized. That was the great aim of the fathers. The Indians were baptized and taught the ritual of the church. They were taught not only how to wear clothes, to make them and to prepare good food, but they were taught how to preserve food and clothing. Certain rules of conduct were followed regarding their relations to their families, neighbors and the missions. These were happy days for the valley Indians. From Mexico and Spain skilled laborers were sent to assist the settlers. Seeds, plants and herds were brought from the south. It was not long before there were not only comfortable homes clustered around the missions, but fruitful gardens, orchards and pastures CALIFORNIA HISTORY 67 spread out in the surrounding country where the Indians could be daily seen cultivating their crops, harvesting them, watching their flocks, shearing their sheep and branding their cattle. The Indians were crudely artistic when the fath- ers came. They could carve patterns of beauty on stones ; they could shape and decorate pottery in fan- tastic and curious designs. Now this art was culti- vated and encouraged. From the crude pottery de- signs that then existed the Indians learned how to improve their work. They learned how to carve leather so well that today their leather designs are treasured in many collections and museums as me- mentoes of great value. Then there was the drawn work for the women, the weaving of cloth by hand, and we may still sometimes find some exquisite altar cloth, hand-woven, embroidered with taste and skill. The hemp and flax of which these cloths were made were grown at the missions. The cattle industry gave rise to the tanning of leather, which was used for boots, shoes, harness and saddles. The saddle was the treasure of many an Indian, for travelling by horseback or by foot was the only method. How picturesque were those In- dians of the early days with all the clothes and fit- tings the padres and the skilled Spanish people had taught them to make so well! Drinking cups and spoons and ladles were carved from the horns of cattle. But one thing the Indians 68 CALIFORNIA HISTORY taught the padres was how to preserve meat from a time of plenty to keep until a time of need. The Mexicans today preserve their meat in the same man- ner. The meat is cut into strips and ''jerked" or sun-dried. It may be prepared with or without salt. The mission settlements not only grew and made enough food and supplies for their own communities but they raised enough to spare. Cloth, wine, tallow, leather goods, could all be made and shipped by sail- ing vessels to other parts of the world. The women soon learned to be good cooks. Their men learned how to carve furniture for their home from wood. The lumber which was cut was used for buildings, fences, carts, boxes, cabinets, furniture. The Indians learned to do everything that was nec- essary in the making and keeping of a good home. It was some time between 1769 and 1773 that grapes, oranges and the fruits for which California is famous today were brought from the south and from Spain to the missions and carefully cultivated. Each mission had its own gardens and orchards and its own wine press. We are told that at the end of sixty years more than 30,000 Indians had been baptized and lived at the missions under the guidance of the good padres. The padres were kind and helpful to them, and obe- dience and peace generally prevailed at the missions. So well did these Indians learn their trades that today, when a sheepman can get an Indian sheep- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 69 herder or shearer, or a rancher can get an Indian cowboy, he counts himself fortunate. The Indians excelled their teachers in many things, such as braid- ing ropes for riatas. Can you not picture these peaceful and happy Cal- ifornia mission settlements in the calm and fruitful valleys of the state; the low adobe mission with its red tile roof surrounded by flowering gardens and fruitful trees, the adobe and wooden homes of the Indians surrounded by the wide fields and orchards and the miles of pasture land dotted with fat cattle and sheep; the patient and gentle padre teaching and guiding his red children and calling them to come to the mission and worship the Great Father of all mankind ? THE INDIANS FROM THE SECULARIZA- TION OF THE MISSIONS TO THE PRESENT TIME The story of the Indians from the time the mis- sion fathers were forced to give up their control to the present time is a sad story and sheds nothing of credit upon the white race. The Indians had been as children to the padres. They had, in sixty years' time, advanced from the crudest savagery to a civilized condition under the instruction and guidance of the fathers. But the padres prophesied that it would take many more years to allow the Indians to live as they had been taught, 70 CALIFORNIA HISTORY without a directing hand. They still needed care as a child needs careful watchfulness and training be- fore he can become a self-supporting man. Revolutions, and trouble between Mexico and Spain, were the beginning of trouble in the missions in California. Mexico gained her freedom from Spain about 1822 and Mexican politicians gained control in California. They could not have the same motive as the fathers in their interest in California and the Indians. The fathers desired to convert the Indians, the politicians and Mexican governors wish- ed to make money on them. The missions were the backbone of California. Near them was raised all the food and crops. They constituted the settlements. The governors appointed to California had no regard for the good of the missions. They imme- diately tried to get hold of the property. There were efforts to arouse the Indians to rebellion against the good priests. None of these efforts succeeded. How- ever, the governors did take control from the fath- ers. They left them but a small home in which to live at the mission and the rest of the property was either rented or sold. The new officials used mis- sion property in payment of their personal debts. Stores of tallow and hides were given away in this way and so was mission land. The priests fought against this edict, but they were powerless, though they knew that the Indians were not yet far enough CALIFORNIA HISTORY ?! advanced to make progress for themselves or even to earn their own Hving or to keep what property they had against the wiles or commands of the new residents. They were as children utterly unfit to take up the burdens of existence. On July 6, 1846, the Stars and Stripes were raised in Monterey, signifying that America now had con- trol of California. This meant an even sadder time for the Indians. In 1849 the gold rush to California began. With the settlement of California by people from all parts of the world there came thousands of pioneers, some men of high ideals, some camp followers, the saloon and the gamblers. The Indians fell an easy prey to the latter. What property some of them had was taken from them in exchange for liquor and trinkets. The Indians gambled and drank, and lacking food oftentimes turned to thieving. When they could get work they worked, but this was not often. The building of cities and manners of living which to the Indian were unnatural were introduced in Cal- ifornia. To conform to the new people who came, the Indian must make some attempt at living as oth- ers did, but his lands and property were gone and those people who had originally owned the entire state were beggars and treated cruelly and heart- lessly by the white usurper. This was written of the Indians of San Fran- cisco in 1853: 72 CALIFORNIA HISTORY "They are a miserable, squalid-looking set, squatting or lying about the corners of the streets, without occupation. They have no m-eans of obtaining a living, as their lands are all taken from them; and the missions for which they labored, and which pro- vided after a sort for many thousands of them, are abolished. No care seems to be taken of them by the Americans; on the con- trary, the effort seems to be to exterminate them as soon as possible." In Los Angeles at about the same time, the early fifties, the Indians were treated almost as slaves. They were excellent laborers and there was plenty of work for them to do. The Indians were often paid by the vineyard owners with wine every Saturday night. They gathered together and became drunk over the week end. For this and the wild behavior that it caused they were arrested and thrown into jail. At the beginning of the new week the Indians were shown for sale to vineyardists who paid from one to three dollars, for which debt the Indian had to labor for the next week for the man who had paid his fine, and at the close again receive his payment in wine. These are just a few of the abuses that the Indian has suffered at the hands of the white men. The race is rapidly dying out. The Indians in California in 1921, according to government report, numbered but 12,725. The church and the government have both tried to educate the Indians, but the training has been hard for them and they are not adapted to civilized ways and customs. The result has been many epi- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 7Z A modern Indian woman of Northern California carrying wood. 74 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 75 demies of disease, and tuberculosis has made sad ravages among the people. An Indian commissioner and his assistants, under the Department of the Interior, are in direct charge of Indian affairs. A campaign to release Indians from government control if they were fitted to care for themselves be- gan in April, 1917. This provided that all able-bodied adult Indians should be given full and complete con- trol of some property. This resulted in 20,000 titles to land being given to Indians in the United States. The Indians had to be graduates of the government schools and be competent and over twenty-one years of age. This work now, however, is at a standstill, as it was dropped in January, 1921, and no more titles have been issued. The Indians in California meanwhile are attend- ing the government schools and trying to learn how to care for themselves. At the rate they have been dying out, they will soon cease to be a problem to the government. In California there are eleven main Indian agen- cies and schools at the present time. They are: Bishop Agency and Schools, at Bishop, Inyo County, which include schools at Bishop, Big Pine, Independ- ence and Pine Creek; Campo Agency and School, near San Diego; Digger Reservation, at Jackson; Fort Bidwell Agency and School, at Fort Bidwell; Greenville School, at Greenville ; Hoopa Valley Agen- 76 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 77 cy and School; Pala Agencies and Schools, which include Capitan Grande, La Jolla, Rincon, Volcan, Mesa Grande, Inaja or Cosmet and Los Coyotes res- ervations and day schools; Round Valley Agency and Schools, which include Upper Lake, Pinoliville, Yokaia schools; Sherman Institute, near Riverside; Soboba Agency and Schools, at San Jacinto, which include Cahuilla, Santa Rosa, Santa Ynez, Malki and Martinez reservations and schools ; Tule River Agen- cy and Schools, near Porterville, which include Au- berry, Tule River and Burrough day schools. ^ The government furnishes funds for the educa- tion of Indian children under the regular public school system. A good example of such a school is the Tejon school, Kern County. 78 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER XI THE SPANISH GOVERNORS OF CALIFORNIA PROJECT— THE GOVERNMENT OF CALIFORNIA BY THE SPANIARDS, 1770 TO 1822. Topics — The First Governor, Portola. California Un- der Neve. The Arrival of Senora Fages. Large Land Grants and the Results. The government of California after its settlement by the Spanish has been divided into three periods, under Spanish, Mexican and American governors. The Spanish governors began their rule with Caspar de Portola when he established the first presidio in Monterey on June 3, 1770. Felipe de Barri governed from 1771 until 1774, and Felipe de Neve from 1774 to 1782. For forty years after the rule of Neve the Span- ish governors did not do anything that left an en- during mark on history. They gave minute instruc- tions to the alcaldes and soldiers to watch the per- sonal habits of the settlers and to see that they were not idle and that they went to church regularly. They were to prohibit gambling and drinking. There CALIFORNIA HISTORY 79 were rules for the use of water for irrigation pur- poses and there was an attempt to employ the In- dians of the missions. So that none could plead ig- norance of the laws, they were read publicly at least once a month. The five governors who held their authority by regular appointment between July, 1782, and the end of Spanish control, 1821, were: Don Pedro Pages, July 12, 1782 -April 16, 1791; Don Jose Antonio de Romeu, 1791-1792; Don Diego de Borica, May 14, 1794 -March 8, 1800; Don Jose Joaquin de Arrillaga, March 8, 1800 -July 24, 1814; Don Pablo Vicente de Sola, August 30, 1815 to 1822, the Independence of Mexico. In the time between the death of Romeu and the appointment of Borica, April, 1792 - May, 1794, Ar- rillaga, who was lieutenant-governor of Lower Cali- fornia, served as governor of both Lower and Upper California. Between the death of Arrillaga and the appointment of Sola, Don Jose Arguello served as governor of Alta California. The two Californias, Upper and Lower, or Alta and Baja California, as they were called, were separated by the decree of August 29, 1804. After Mexico declared her independence from Spain, 1821, Sola continued to serve until Novem- ber 10, 1822, when Luis Antonio Arguello was ap- pointed and held office until April 2, 1823. The governors appointed had all distinguished 80 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 81 themselves as soldiers for a number of years pre- vious to their being made the head of California. Fages, Romeu and Borica brought their wives and families to live at the capital, Monterey. The coming of Senora Fages was regarded of great importance and the residents of California anticipated great ad- vantages from associating with so great a lady as the wife of the governor. She, however, came to California much against her will, and found her home so crude and with so little of the luxury to which she had been accustomed that she made herself very dis- agreeable. In fact, she was so bad-tempered with everyone, her husband included, that the priests had to interfere, until her better temper prevailed. She was so shocked upon seeing the almost naked Indians that she gave them many of her clothes. There were four presidios in California. They were in San Diego, Santa Barbara, Monterey and San Francisco. They were walled-in villages and the soldiers lived in adobe huts ranged along the in- ner walls of the stronghold. The settlers lived in unwalled pueblos or around the missions, guarded by a few soldiers and surrounded by hundreds of Indians. "The Spanish governors were expected to defend some 600 miles of sea coast, extending from San Francisco to San Diego, from foreign attack and to permit no settlement to be made in the region north- ward as far as Spain claimed sovereignty, which was 82 CALIFORNIA HISTORY to and beyond Vancouver Island, without protest, and giving prompt notice to the authorities of New Spain. They were also to defend the missions and pueblos against attack by the Indians, or at least to put down any uprising that might occur, and punish those who took part in it. They were to permit no trade with any ship except the transports from San Bias, and allow no foreign ship to enter any harbor unless in urgent need of repairs or supplies of wood, water or provisions." Fages showed himself to be capable and active and made a good governor during his term of ser- vice. His successor, Romeu, was appointed because of his aptitude for business affairs, and the presidio's business affairs were in sad confusion. Romeu died before he could work any reforms. He was buried at San Carlos in a now forgotten grave, and his wife and daughter returned to Spain. In the interim between the death of Romeu and the appointment of a successor, Arrillaga, lieutenant- governor of Loreto, served temporarily as governor of both Californias. He applied himself to settling the accounts at the presidios until the matter of self- defense was brought to his attention. He studied the fortifications at the presidios and planned the build- ing and accomplishment of the most pretentious stronghold on the coast during the Spanish period. The fort was built, facing the Golden Gate, on San CALIFORNIA HISTORY 83 Francisco Bay, and was named Castillo de San Joaquin. Borica's six years of office saw the improvement of many defenses. San Jose, San Diego, Monterey and Santa Barbara were all improved in various ways and furnished with weapons of self-defense in case the troubles in Europe spread to the Spanish possessions in the new world. Further activities in fortifying California were checked by the lack of materials with which to work. Spain was unable to send supplies. Borica initiated his regime with ideas of colonization; there was planting of lands and the building of irrigating sys- tems. These yielded some increase, but did not amount to the results the workers had expected. Arrillaga and Sola, though less resourceful, had somewhat the same ideas and did their best towards bringing wives for the soldiers and further colon- izing the state. Large land grants were made to families in California during this period, though the friars at the missions opposed the grants because they feared the influence of the new residents upon their Indians and because they believed the land belonged to the Indians and should be saved for the time when they would be able to cultivate the land themselves. Colonization was not entirely a success because things were not so managed that they could be run at a profit. The system was one of government owner- ship and there was no market for things grown ex- 84 CALIFORNIA HISTORY cept that furnished by the government. The gov- ernment fixed the prices and Hmited the amount the individual should buy and should own. It was these conditions that caused the Spanish to become the lazy, luxury-loving people they were, leaving the w^ork for the Indians to do, paying them from one-third to one-half for doing the w^ork while they "whiled away the hours with the guitar, or in dancing, gambling or worse employments." The announcement in March, 1822, under the rule of Sola, that Mexico was no longer ruled by Spain, was received with satisfaction, and even the governor did not make much protest. The friars alone seemed affected by it and long remained faithful in their hearts to their former heads. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 85 CHAPTER XII THE MEXICAN GOVERNORS PROJECT— CALIFORNIA RULED BY THE MEXI- CANS FROM 1822 TO JULY 7, 1846. Topics — The Organization of the Government of Cali- fornia Under the Mexican Constitution. The Secular- ization of the Missions, in 1833. Governor Figueroa. Governor Alvarado. The Stars and Stripes. There were twelve governors under the Mexican regime from the date of the adoption of the consti- tution, 1823, until the American governors began their rule with John D. Sloat, the first governor un- der military rule, who took office July 7, 1846. Pablo Vicente de Sola, serving California under Spanish appointment, continued in office for a short time after the change in government, and thus be- came the first governor under the Mexican admin- istration. After Sola, the Mexican governors in order of their succession were: Luis Arguello, 1823-1825; Jose Maria Echeandia, 1825-1831; Manuel Victoria, 1831-1832; Pio Pico, 1832-1833; Jose Figueroa, 1833-1835; Jose Castro, 1835-1836; Nicolas Gutier- rez, 1836 (January to May) ; Mariano Chico, 1836 (few months) ; Nicolas Gutierrez, 1836 (few months) ; Juan B. Alvarado, 1836-1842; Manuel Micheltorena, 1842-1845; Pio Pico, 1845-1846. 86 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Sola had been violently opposed to the revolution of Mexico against Spain, but when the commission of the imperial regency arrived in Monterey and re- quired his submission and allegiance to the flag of Mexico he yielded immediately. In March, 1822, Sola issued orders for a council of the chief officers of the province to be held at Monterey in the early part of April for the purpose of putting the new gov- ernment into effect. He summoned the command- antes of the presidios and of the Mazatlan and San Bias troops and the president and prefect of the missions. "As soon as they were convened. Sola read the dispatches from Mexico; and thereupon all present agreed to take the oath of independence and swear for themselves and their subordinates to respect and obey the orders of, and bear true allegiance to, the new supreme government; and they all thereupon signed a written declaration to that effect. On April 11 the oath was publicly administered and was taken by them and by all the troops and people of Monte- rey; and the solemn act was made the occasion of a church festival, continual hurrahs, repeated salutes of cannon and muskets, music, an illumination and everything else that could be thought of to give eclat to the auspicious event. Within a few days after- wards, instructions were issued for the same oath to be taken at other points throughout the province and also by all the Indians.'' CALIFORNIA HISTORY 87 The time of Mexican rule in California was mark- ed by a number of upheavals of little importance. There was growing dissatisfaction with the Mexican rule, which did nothing particularly for the good of California. Though there were plans for improve- ment, there was no means by which to realize them. Some of the questions which caused trouble among the Californians wxre: the fact of Mexico sending convicts for soldiers; a growing jealousy between the north and south of California; numerous dis- putes over the location of the capital and where the custom-house should be. In 1833 the question of the secularization of the missions was paramount, and for the next ten years there was much of plunder and ruin in the history of the missions. These had been a bone of contention for a number of years. The understanding when they were estab- lished was that as soon the Indians had been con- verted and were able to be self-supporting that the padres should go to fresh fields and establish other missions. This was one of the policies of Spain, which had issued a decree for the secularization of the missions in 1813, though it was not carried into effect. The final secularization of the missions was completed in Figueroa's time. Echeandia in 1828 tried to adopt a plan whereby the work would be accomplished, but the plan mis- carried and was a failure. In 1833 the Mexican Congress ordered that ''the government should pro- 88 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 89 ceed to secularize the missions of both the Cahfor- nias; that each mission should constitute a parish to be served by a curate or a secular priest with an annual salary of from two thousand to twenty-five hundred dollars ; that the mission churches with their ornaments should serve as parish churches and have each annually five hundred dollars for the mainte- nance of public worship; that of the other mission buildings one with a tract of ground not exceeding- two hundred varas square in extent should be ap- propriated for the residence of the curate and the others devoted to the uses of schools and other pub- lic purposes." There were other comparatively un- important provisions, but the padres were robbed of their authority and influence and were expected to return to convents or colleges from whence they had come; or, at any rate, to leave California. The decay of the missions began. Their resources were drawn upon for many purposes for the govern- ment and they were even obliged to furnish supplies to government troops. Before any executive action could be taken regard- ing Echeandia's plans for the missions, Manuel Vic- toria, the new governor, came to Monterey and as- sumed oflice. He reversed Echeandia's policy and suspended its execution. The people revolted against Victoria and he surrendered in battle, finally return- ing to Mexico. Pio Pico followed, and his time of service was one of dissension and no accomplishment. 90 CALIFORNIA HISTORY The Mexican government next appointed Jose Fi- gueroa, a Mexican by birth and with Aztec blood in his veins. He had taken active part against Spain in the revolution and had risen to be general of a brigade in the Mexican army. The most important event in Figueroa's time and the event which has made the greatest impress on history was the final secularization of the missions. The three steps were: Spain's decree in September, 1813, for the creation of the missions into ordinary parishes, which was not carried out in California; Echeandia's plan in 1828 which he did not have the opportunity to carry into effect and the decree by the Mexican Congress in August, 1833, which or- dered among other things that each mission should serve as a parish and have a curate and a secular priest. The missions of California ceased legally to exist on August 17, 1833, when the Mexican Congress passed the law of secularization. They ceased to exist as a matter of fact on August 9, 1834, when Figueroa named commissioners to carry out the new system. The Indians were freed from the control of the priests, they were given land and property which they managed; their children were delivered to them (they had heretofore been cared for and carefully trained by the mission fathers), and the missions were transformed into Indian pueblos. Cu- rates or secular priests were only spiritual leaders CALIFORNIA HISTORY 91 to the Indians, who must manage for themselves. The ruin and loss this worked to the Indians and how they lost their property through the schemes of those wiser than they is a sad story. "Figueroa always sympathized with the Indians. He claimed to be of Indian blood and accounted in that manner for his sympathy, but he always meant to be fair. No charge of corruption or unlawful gain has been made against Figueroa in the spoilation of the missions, but the great mass of commissioners and other officials whose duty it became to adminis- ter the properties of the missions, and especially their great numbers of horses, cattle, sheep and other ani- mals, thought of little else and accomplished little else than enriching themselves. It cannot be said that the spoilation was immediate; but it was cer- tainly very rapid. A few years sufficed to strip the establishments of everything of value and leave the Indians, who were in contemplation of law the bene- ficiaries of secularization, a shivering crowd of naked and, so to speak, homeless wanderers upon the face of the earth. ... As soon as it became certain that secularization was to take place, the missionaries themselves commenced the work of destruction. Some of them sold off what property they were able to dis- pose of, and others ordered the slaughter of their cattle for the sake of the hides alone. Thus at San Luis Obispo a sale was effected and the proceeds, which consisted of over twenty thousand dollars' 92 CALIFORNIA HISTORY worth of cotton, silk and woolen goods, were distrib- uted among the Indians. At San Gabriel the cattle were all slaughtered. This latter was by far the richest mission in the territory. Its cattle numbered over a hundred thousand. They were killed where they were found, in the valleys or on the hills; the hides were taken off and the carcasses left to rot. The spectacle presented was horrible. Some of the valleys were entirely covered with putrescent masses; and for years the country in the neighborhood was white with skeletons. In some places the skulls and large bones were so plentiful that long fences were built of them. And the slaughter was so complete that afterwards, when a new missionary was sent to take charge of the spiritual concerns of the estab- lishment, he was obliged to depend upon the alms of a neighboring ranchero for meat." One of the forward policies of Figueroa was the establishment of many schools. The few teachers were incompetent and ill paid. Figueroa raised sal- aries, provided for the education of many more teach- ers at a normal school at San Gabriel in 1834, and established schools in Monterey, Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, Sonoma, Santa Clara, San Jose, San Ga- briel, San Luis Rey and San Diego. He was suffering from ill health and at last it was necessary for him to resign from his work. He hoped to go from Monterey to Santa Barbara, where he wished to be buried, but he died while on the way CALIFORNIA HISTORY 93 at San Juan Bautista. With great honors the body was moved to the Mission of Santa Barbara and buried. Jose Castro had been appointed pohtical leader by Figueroa when he was taken sick and Gutierrez was made mihtary leader. The Mexican government thought that one leader was sufficient for California and asked Castro to deliver the reins of government entirely over to Gutierrez, which he did. His term of office was short lived. Soon after Gutierrez' ap- pointment the supreme government, in 1836, se- lected Mariano Chico. Chico's rule was short and ignominious, for he was not fitted for the position and came to an inglorious end through his lack of judgment and bad temper. In order to save himself from being chased from California he left for Mex- ico City on the pretense that he was going to make certain reports and requests. He asked Gutierrez to take charge. But the passion and bad judgment that had marked Chico's short time seemed to still prevail and Gutierrez had a difficult few months, which concluded with his surrendering to Juan Bau- tista Alvarado, a native son of Spanish descent and a young man of unusual ability and cleverness. Al- varado was declared governor by a congress of Cali- fornians which met at Monterey. This little revo- lution was bloodless, and as Mexico was very busy with her own affairs and did not regard California as of very much importance, she ignored the change. 94 CALIFORNIA HISTORY The people of Los Angeles wished it to be the cap- ital and seized upon Alvarado's assuming the govern- ment as a chance to protest. Alvarado marched south with troops and threatened the town, and Los An- geles proved submissive. After numerous troubles and some negotiations, Alvarado was formally ap- pointed governor by authorities in Mexico. It was during Alvarado's reign that a notable in- flux of foreigners began to drift to California. They came for adventure or trade or because they liked the country. Many of them secured land for homes, lumber mills, cattle raising, hunting or trapping. There were some English, Americans, French, and Danes. Many who came to settle permanently were naturalized. One of the most prominent of these for- eigners was John Augustus Sutter. He was of Swiss parentage but had lived in New York and Missouri for a number of years. He came to California with twelve men and two women in 1839. Wishing to found a colony in the Sacramento Valley, he applied to Alvarado at Monterey for citizenship and land. Alvarado granted his request and gave him land, and jurisdiction in behalf of the government over the sur- rounding country where he settled. Sutter founded a colony on the present site of Sac- ramento and called it New Helvetia. He managed his property in a wise and judicious manner. In 1842, when the Russians were leaving their Califor- nia settlement at Fort Ross, the government agreed CALIFORNIA HISTORY 95 to assume the debt of Sutter for the property, pay- ing the Russians thirty-one thousand dollars. In 1841 Peter Lassen applied for naturalization. He afterwards settled at the foot of the Sierra in the northern part of the Sacramento Valley, and Las- sen's Peak and Lassen County were named after him. Alvarado appointed William E. P. Hartnell, an English merchant of Monterey, 'Visitador-general" of the missions, which meant that he was to visit, investigate and report on the conditions he found. Hartnell found prevailing conditions were bad. The Indians had been robbed of most of their property. They were treated as slaves in many localities, many of them were poorly fed and clothed. Some had fled from their mistreatment at the missions. Hartnell could do little for them, though some effort was made to reorganize the Indians and ease their troubles. Alvarado continued with Figueroa's policy of ed- ucation by establishing more schools, one of them at Monterey, for which he had teachers brought from Mexico. Typesetting and printing were taught there, the first in California, and this art was later used for government reports. After governing for six years Alvarado was forced to resign on account of ill health in 1843. Manuel Micheltorena became governor of Califor- nia January 19, 1842. His rule was a turbulent one, until in 1845 he returned ignominiously to Mexico accompanied by a ship load of convicts whom he had 96 CALIFORNIA HISTORY brought with him to help fight the invasions of Amer- icans. His tactics were such that Alvarado with re- covered heahh had several battles and truces with him, and these were instrumental in persuading Mich- eltorena that he preferred Mexico to California. The last of the Mexican governors was Pio Pico. Pie had previously been governor, about the be- ginning of 1832, when the flight of Victoria left no one in office and Pico took charge until the arrival of Figueroa. Now again in 1846 Pio Pico held of- fice from the time of the expulsion of Micheltorena until the arrival of Sloat and the American conquest. Pio Pico's few months of service as governor of Cal- ifornia were marked by dissension with his military leader, Jose Castro, and the fear of the ''horde of foreign bandits", as he called the Americans who were coming from the east in large numbers. Those who had arrived here first had written east to their families and friends and told them of glorious Cali- fornia and her resources, and it was having effect, to the dismay of the Calif ornians. The Bear Flag Republic was declared on June 14, 1846, when Americans surrounded the home of Gen- eral M. G. Vallejo, took him prisoner with some oth- ers, and sent them to Fremont's camp. On July 7, 1846, Commodore John D. Sloat raised the Stars and Stripes in Monterey, and Mexican rule in California came to an end. These events will be related in a more extended manner in ''How California Came CALIFORNIA HISTORY 97 Into the Union" and in the chapter on 'The Life and Times of John Charles Fremont". PICO Last of thy gallant race, farewell! When darkness on his eyelids fell The chain was snapped — the tale was told That linked the new world to the old; — Th-e new world of our happy day To those brave times which fade away In memories of flocks and fells Of lowing herds and mission bells. He linked us to the times which wrote Vallejo, Sutter, Stockton, Sloat, Upon their banners — times which knew The cowled Franciscan, and the gray Old hero-priest of Monterey. He * * * * * The train moves on. No hand may stay The onward march of destiny; But from her valleys, rich in grain, From mountain slope and poppied plain A sigh is heard — his deeds they tell, And, sighing, hail and call farewell, — Daniel S. Richardson. 98 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER XIII THE RUSSIANS IN CALIFORNIA PROJECT— THE SETTLEMENT OF THE PACIFIC COAST, INCLUDING CALIFORNIA, BY RUS- SIANS, 1781 TO 1841. Topics — The Russian Fur Traders. The Russian Set- tlement at Fort Ross. Count Rezanof and His Ro- mance with Concepcion de Arguello. The Russians were eager fur traders in the early days and their energy and industry were directed as early as 1781 to the fur-bearing animals that lived along the coasts of Alaska. Trading posts were built and trappers went to Alaska to live. In 1812 the trappers found that the sea otters in California had desirable fur. They built a trading post, named by the Russians Stawianski, but called by the Americans Eort Ross, on a stream since called the Russian River. We are told that the settlers bought their land of the Indians and paid them three blan- kets, three pairs of breeches, two axes, three hoes and some beads. The colony consisted of ninety- five Russians and eighty Alaskan Indians, who were good hunters. They brought with them forty canoes and ten cannon for protection. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 99 Not only were furs obtained from the Russian River, but San Francisco Bay and the FaraUone Is- lands proved good hunting grounds. Some supplies were grown by the traders, but at first they obtained all they needed from the missions. The Spanish people looked with great disfavor up- on the Russians, whom they regarded as intruders. They were very much provoked when the traders came in their boats in and around San Francisco Bay, but as they had no ships in which to go out and chase them away the governor had to content himself by writing severe and complaining letters to the com- mander at Fort Ross. These letters were ineffectual and the Russians obtained thousands of skins a year. In Alaska the settlers were not as fortunate in ob- taining food and having comfortable quarters as were those in California. They could not grow food for themselves there and it took supplies a long time to come from Russia. In 1805, hearing reports of conditions there and wishing to ascertain their truth, the Czar sent Count Rezanof to Alaska as his personal representative. Upon his arrival he found the settlers starving and ill and in need of immediate supplies. Rezanof sailed for San Francisco as the nearest port from which to get necessary food, taking with him a cargo for trade. Commander Arguello had been expecting impor- tant officials from Russia and his instructions were 100 CALIFORNIA HISTORY that if they came he must entertain them. When Comit Rezanof arrived, Arguello was in Monterey and his son Luis was in charge, and thought that Rezanof was the important Russian whom he had had instructions to entertain. He was most lavish in his hospitahty and sent for his father to come from Monterey. Commander Arguello was as cour- teous as his son, but discovered the truth, that Rez- anof was not the expected guest. He refused Rez- anof supplies, as he had received instructions not to trade with any foreign country at that time. This opposition Rezanof craftily overcame with gifts to those upon whom he could bestow them, as he had many acceptable articles on board his ship, the Juno. But he was failing in his purpose of get- ting supplies for his countrymen in Alaska until he fell in love with the beautiful sixteen-year-old daugh- ter of Commander Arguello. She returned his affec- tion and the two became engaged. The Commander was then prevailed upon by his family and friends and even the good padres themselves, to allow Rez- anof to take supplies to Alaska. The Commander finally consented, as he argued that this could not be called trading with a foreign country when Rez- anof was to be one of his family. Rezanof was given to understand, however, that he could not expect fur- ther supplies. The handsome young count declared he must go to Russia and get his emperor's permission to marry CALIFORNIA HISTORY 101 the fair Californian, expecting to return to Califor- nia and claim his bride after this consent had been obtained. Amidst the good wishes of many friends he sailed away once more and this was the last time that Concepcion Arguello saw her lover. He was taken ill and died while crossing the wastes of Si- beria. It was not mitil some thirty-six years later that Concepcion even knew that he had died. She waited vainly for him and later became a nun. Bret Harte has beautifully told this story in the poem which immortalizes the name of Concepcion de Arguello. The Russians continued to live and trade in Cali- fornia until the supply of otter was exhausted, and in 1841 the property at Fort Ross and all claims were sold to John Sutter.* * The purchase of Alaska, in 1867, from Russia by the United States, finally terminated the Russians' landed interest in North America. 102 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER XIV ROMANTIC CALIFORNIA PROJECT— THE SOCIAL LIFE FROM 1770 TO 1846. Topics — The Style of Living. Fiestas. Fandangos. Horseback Riding. Rodeos. Gambling. Happy Days. The romance and color, the kixury and ease, the picturesque costumes and style of living, the freedom from all worries which obsess civilization, were all marks which cast a glamor over the early days in California, a period which has been made famous in song and in story. California's romantic days were those when Spain was in control and of the early part of the Mexican era. While the Revolutionary War was raging in the eastern states, California was enjoying a golden age. There was plenty of land. There were numerous flocks. Crops were growing in abundance. Large ranches were flourishing. The missions were pros- perous and filling their place in the life of the In- dians. Wild game abounded. Ships came to the coasts bringing shiploads of silks, satins, linen and jewelry, and these were quickly exchanged for the things that California produced, including hides and tallow. The articles of trade came from the Atlantic states and from the Orient, CALIFORNIA HISTORY 103 104 CALIFORNIA HISTORY How the women reveled in the beautiful silks and satins ! How colorfully they arranged laces and silks into dresses of beauty and grace ! The men too wore picturesque raiment, wide brimmed hats, satin and velvet coats of bright colors and tall boots and some- times spurs of silver and gold when they were riding. Speaking of this period one historian says : "Look- ing at California's Mexican era from one point of view, there is a feeling of regret in the heart that the splendid, happy idleness of it ever passed away. Those were the days when people were not concerned with the strenuous materialism and commercialism of modern life. There was no greed, very little am- bition and a great deal of peace. California was then a country of vast estates. The cattle roamed on the hills, the fertile soil was taxed only to a degree which would give sustenance to the population. There was plenty of running water for man and beast; the doors of the great mission hospices were open with a welcome that was endless and without price to whom- ever might fare along El Camino Real. And the door of every man's house was open in the same way. There was marriage and giving in marriage, many children, much joy, little hate and a contentment that was as vast as the sun and moon and stars that shone upon the white peaks of the Sierras, the swing- ing lomas and the flower-flamed vales that stretched between Sonoma in the Valley of the Seven Moons and San Diego lying warm in the embrace of the CALIFORNIA HISTORY 105 dreamy hills that close in upon the Harbor of the Sun. "During all these years California had no rail- roads, no bridges even, no telephones, no automo- biles, no boards of trade and no intrusion from with- out except the visits of the Yankee traders who had rounded the Horn with New England merchandise to barter for the hides and tallow of the missions; a Russian now and then from the north, an occasional American pioneer who had wandered through the mountain passes from the east, and maybe a French- man or an Englishman once in a great while who came to see what might be seen — and that was all." The chief ruler of California during this period was a governor appointed by the central authority of New Spain or Mexico. Under the governor there were officers who were called prefects and sub-pre- fects. There were other officers if they were needed and the governor was himself the military command- er. Seven members composed the lawmaking body and they met but once in four years. The alcaldes, or magistrates, were important in their way and set- tled quarrels and helped to preserve the peace. Grants of land were made by the Spanish and Mex- ican governments to residents in California, and these were later confirmed by the United States when it came into possession. In all about nine million acres were given away. If these old families had been able to hold possession of their estates their de- scendants would be very wealthy now. It was nee- 106 CALIFORNIA HISTORY essary to have large tracts of land so cattle could roam over them for food. The people, men and women alike, travelled from one home to another on horseback. That was their only means of travel and they owned fine horses and beautiful hand-carved saddles which were greatly treasured. The homes were built of adobe and fin- ished with lime wash of different colors. The roofs were of red tile. Orange groves, vineyards, fields and gardens of many varieties surrounded these homes, which were graciously opened to every way- farer whether he came to stay for a day or a month. In the bed chamber of the guest there was even left a pile of money from which the guest might help himself if he were in need. Guests were welcome to take a horse or to fill their needs and desires at will. Hunting the wild beasts and fowls, the rodeo or round-up, the fandango or dance, and bull fighting- were some of the amusements. Work was not a serious factor of the time. The people were pleasure loving, luxurious and lazy, and a fandango might last for several days. The dancers were tireless if it were time to dance and in order to get to festive places they would ride many miles on horseback and often carry their gay clothes strapped on the saddle. Perhaps there was an ugly side to all this romance and charm, for we are told that there w^as much gambling and drinking in the lives of the care-free people. They were not making definite progress in CALIFORNIA HISTORY 107 108 CALIFORNIA HISTORY civilization, but they were happy and contented and kindly and generous with one another. The most important place in California during both the Mexican and Spanish eras was the capital, Mon- terey. In his book, 'Two Years Before the Mast", R. H. Dana, in 1828, when he made a trip to the Pacific Coast, describes Monterey: 'The town lay directly before us, making a very pretty appearance; its houses being of whitewashed adobe, which gives a much better effect than those of Santa Barbara, which are mostly of a lead color. The red tiles, too, on the roofs, contrasted well with the white sides, and with the extreme greenness of the lawn upon which the houses, about a hundred in number, were dotted about, here and there, irregu- larly. There are in this place, and in every other town which I saw in California, no streets nor fences (except that here and there a small patch might be fenced in for a garden), so that the houses were placed at random upon the green. This, as they are of one story, and of the cottage form, gives them a pretty eft"ect when seen from a little distance." Other small settlements during this time were San Diego, which was important as a trading point and a busy little place with its good natural harbor; ''Santa Barbara was a town of about one hundred white-washed, red-roofed adobe houses, and the great mission standing back on the commanding hills, a CALIFORNIA HISTORY 109 mighty landmark to the mariner then as it is today" ; Los Angeles and San Jose were dirty and of slow growth and the people gambled and drank to excess; Santa Cruz had a few homes clustered about the mission, and that was all. Of San Francisco from the bay it is said: "Beyond, to the westward of the landing place, were dreary sand hills, with little grass to be seen and few trees, and beyond them higher hills, steep and barren, their sides gullied by the rains. Some five or six miles beyond the landing place, to the right, was a ruinous presidio and some three or four miles to the left was the Mission of Dolores, as ruinous as the presidio and almost de- serted, with but few Indians attached to it and but little property in cattle." It would not be fair to write of the romantic days of California without emphasizing the gay celebra- tions that took place when there was a wedding. The silver-tongued, soft-toned caballeros in their pic- turesque attire, their guitars and their love of love and of life, were ardent in their wooing of the seno- rita of their choice. The dusky haired maids were closely watched and guarded by their duennas, but they married young and raised families of their own. Through the soft, sweet scented air of the California nights the caballeros could be heard strumming their guitars beneath the windows of their beloveds and singing in rich, soft voices the appealing love songs that the passionate sons of the south know and can 110 CALIFORNIA HISTORY sing so well. Probably many a time did a pair of bright eyes peek through the rose-draped window to the garden below ere the watchful duenna inter- fered. How gallant were these caballeros at the fiestas, the races and the bull fights and how poig- nant with youth and love was the atmosphere when there was a gathering of the youth and beauty of California! Then the wedding! The solemn cere- mony read by the padre amidst the brilliant gather- ing of friends and relatives ! The luxurious feast and then the dancing, oftentimes for several days and nights ! The senoritas looked forward to their wed- ding day from the time they were able to talk until the happy day arrived. The bridegroom gave beau- tiful gifts of jewels and laces of rare value to his bride. What a time it was for the senorita's friends to gather and admire the generosity and good taste of the happy senor ! The Spanish and Mexican young people intermar- ried with the Russians, and with the Americanos, or Gringos, as they were called, when they began to arrive in California. The closing of these happy days began during the turbulent times of the Mexican rule, when Mexico was trying to gain her freedom from Spain and fi- nally declared herself a Republic in 1822. The com- ing of the Americans and then the gold rush in 1849 brought with the many stalwart men of integrity and worth an influx of undesirable adventurers who CALIFORNIA HISTORY 111 cheated the simple and generous residents of CaH- fornia, and the romantic days of Cahfornia were at an end. The fever for gold, the lust of conquest, swept away the lazy, happy, carefree days of the Spanish era in a whirlpool of distress, and this time can never again exist. Civilization with all its ex- actions holds the Golden State in its grip. Old Spanish house — Bixby ranch, near Long Beach 112 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER XV JEDEDIAH SMITH PROJECT— THE FIRST OVERLAND JOURNEY TO CALIFORNIA, 1826. Topics — Difficulties on a New Trail. Fur Trappers. Trouble with the Indians. The Great Courage of the First Pathfinders. Jedediah Smith was the first American trapper to reach CaHfornia over land. He had been trapping as far west as the Great Salt Lake. In 1826 he gathered together a party of fifteen men and started southwest, down the Colorado, across the Mohave Desert to the San Gabriel Mission, near Los Angeles. In San Gabriel, Smith and his party were unwel- come and were regarded with such distrust that he was ordered to surrender his arms. Displeased with this treatment. Smith went on to San Diego and com- plained to the governor. Some white men, captains of ships then in the bay, heard of the trouble and vouched for him. He was asked, however, to leave the locality and go home the way he had come. He left, but not in the direction he was told, as he wish- ed to go up the coast to Oregon. On the way he CALIFORNIA HISTORY 113 was attacked by Indians, and returned to the San Bernardino country without provisions and in need of help. After starting once more, the next trouble encoun- tered was at Mission San Jose, when Padre Duran accused the men of inciting the Indians to revolt. This is said to be untrue. Studying his territory and the animals as he went. Smith began his return march to Salt Lake. He describes his trip for us himself: '*On May 20, 1827, with two men and seven horses, and two mules laden with hay and food, I started from the valley. In eight days we crossed Mount Joseph, losing on this passage two horses and one mule. At the summit of the mountain the snow was from four to eight feet deep and so hard that the horses sank only a few inches. After a march of twenty days eastward from Mount Joseph (Lassen's Peak), I reached the southwest corner of the great Salt Lake. The country separating it from the moun- tains is arid and without game. Often we had no water for two days at a time; we saw but a plain without the slightest trace of vegetation. Farther on I found rocky hills with springs, then hordes of Indians who seemed to us the most miserable beings imaginable. When we reached the Great Salt Lake we had left only one horse and one mule, so ex- hausted that they could hardly carry our slight lug- gage. We had been forced to eat the horses that had succumbed." 114 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Gathering supplies and eight men, Smith rejoined the men he had left in California, and they went to Monterey. Here the men were still regarded with suspicion, and they had to furnish bond before they could get any provisions for their trip through the north. On the way north the men collected many beau- tiful furs. One morning, as they were eating break- fast, Indians attacked the party, killed all but Smith and two men, who were not in the camp at the time, and took the furs the trappers had secured. Smith and his companions lost their rifles and could get no game for food. They travelled northward to Van- couver and upon their arrival were almost famished and in a pitiable state. They were received kindly, and a party was im- mediately organized to recover the stolen posses- sions from the Indians. The leader of the party was Tom McKay, an experienced Indian fighter. Mc- Kay recovered all the stolen goods, and returned them to the fur trappers, who arrived safely with them at Salt Lake. Smith's adventurous journeys occupied more time than any man had before spent in hunting in these regions. It took much stalwart courage and strength to carry them through. It is said that the Humboldt River was called Mary's River by the Americans after Smith's visit, as he so named it for his Indian wife. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 115 CHAPTER XVI JOHN CHARLES FREMONT PROJECT— EXPLORATIONS OF WESTERN TERRI- TORY AND LIFE OF JOHN CHARLES FRE- MONT FROM 1840 TO 1890. Topics — First Expedition of Fremont to the Rocky Mountains, 1841. Second Expedition of Fremont, Crossing the Sierras Into California, in 1843. Fort Sutter. California, the Golden State, a Land of Nat- ural Beauty. Fremont's Third Expedition, an Errand of Peaceful Exploration, in 1845-1846. Fremont Defies Castro at Gavilan Peak, 1846. Archibald Gillespie's Secret Mission from the President. Fremont Takes First Steps in this Country's Conquest of California. The Bear Flag Republic, June 14, 1846. Sloat Raises the American Flag, July 7, 1846. The Battle of San Pasqual, December 5, 1846. Fremont Takes Posses- sion of California from Governor Pico, January 12, 1847. Fremont's Later Activities and Death. Thy error, Fremont, simply was to act A brave man's part, without the statesman's tact, And, taking counsel but of common sense, To strike at cause as well as consequence. — John Greenleaf Whitti-er. 116 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Fremont was born at Savannah, South Caro- Hna, January 21, 1813. At sixteen years of age he was noted for his good scholarship. He had already begun, however, to show those temperamental qualities which made him one of the most interesting fig- ures in the history of the west, and left col- lege before graduating. The story of his life reads like a romance; engineer, pathfinder, ex- plorer, soldier, govern- or, U. S. Senator, and finally candidate for President of the United States, all in the brief of the sixteen from 1840 to He had bitter and faithful Hubert Howe space years 1856. enemies friends. John Charles Fremont, 1813 to 1890. Bancroft and other his- torians have written CALIFORNIA HISTORY 117 harshly of the mistakes he made, and have given him but Httle credit for his remarkable explorations, for the hardships endured and the happy and scholarly faculty he had in giving names worth while to so many of our attractive California places. Fremont did not belong to the red-shir ted type of explorer. He was a man of clean mind, a lover of nature, and was a man with a great vision. He did not succeed in everything that he attempted; indeed, he might be called a truly successful failure. One of his early friends was Mr. Pointsett,* at one time our minister to Mexico and afterward Sec- retary of War. He took a great interest in young- Fremont, and secured for him a position with Nic- ollet as second lieutenant of topographical engineers. Under Nicollet he began his explorations and made several expeditions to the north of the Missouri River. This was in 1838-39. In 1840, while Fremont was in Washington, he met Jessie Benton, the charming and talented daughter of Senator Benton of Mis- souri, and after a brief courtship married her. Be- cause of her charm of manner, and her devotion to the cause of the development of the west, her name is as well known in the history of California as is that of her illustrious husband. In 1842, while leading his first independent expe- dition, Fremont met that other explorer, Kit Carson, a meeting which resulted in a life-long friendship * Our beautiful scarlet Pointsettia was named for Mr, PointS'Ctt. 118 CALIFORNIA HISTORY and companionship. It was on this first expedition that Fremont and his party crossed the trackless prairies into the Rocky Mountains and cHmbed that Kit Carson, the Indian fighter and guide. lofty mountain, now named for him Fremont Peak, in the Wind River Mountains of Wyoming. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 119 Here he raised the American flag, and reported the details of the trip to the Government at Wash- ington. A second expedition was immediately plan- ned and successfully carried out. Fremont in his ''Memoirs" gives the following summary of the trip: "The circuit which we had made, and which cost us eight months of time and three thousand five hundred miles of travelling, had given us a view of Oregon and of Northern California, from tbe Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, and of the two principal streams which form bays or harbors on the coast of that sea." On this journey he followed the emigrant trail from Salt Lake to the Columbia, then down the Co- lumbia past The Dalles and, turning south, made a trail through Oregon to Fort Sutter. When Fremont came to the snow-clad Sierras, the Indians warned him and his party that it was impossible for them to cross the Sierras into Cali- fornia. One of the Indians, a very old man, made them comprehend in simple sign language: ''Rock upon rock, rock upon rock, snow upon snow, snow upon snow!" He told them that his provisions were low and they must reach the place where the white men were. Under the leadership of Kit Carson the trip through the mountains was made without loss of life, but they did not reach Fort Sutter and Cap- tain Sutter's warm welcome, without suffering many hardships and privations. Fremont relates that on February 13, 1842, they were out of meat, and in order to live he gave per- 120 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Fremont's Pass This narrow cut through the summit of one of the ridges over- looking the Mission of San Fernando marks the route taken by the Pathfinder and his party in entering the valley. Now unused, for the easy grades of the wonderful Ridge Route wind below, it stands as a monument to the great explorer. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 121 The old adobe house, Sutter's Fort, before restoration. mission to kill the little dog Tlamatt that was with the party. Fremont says, "The man prepared the dog meat Indian fashion, scorching off the hair, washing the skin with soot and snow, and then cut- ting it up into pieces, which were laid on the snow. Shortly after- ward the sleigh arrived with horse meat, and we had an extraordin- ary dinner of pea soup, dog meat and mule." After many days, when the party was close to starvation, they reached the valley of the Sacramento and Fremont was en- thusiastic in his reports of its beauty and fertil- ity. Fremont described and gave the name of ''Live Oak" to our Cal- ifornia oak tree. In his famous "Memoirs" he says, "A few miles from Sutter's place we found fields of flowering lupines. This beautiful shrub grew in thickets, some of them twelve feet high. They formed a grand bouquet and the perfume was very sweet and grateful. We also saw groves of wild oak, the most The old adobe house, Sutter Fort, restored. 122 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 123 beautiful and symmetrical we had seen in the country. A lover of natural beauty can imagine with what pleas- ure we rode among the flowering groves which filled the air with a light and delicate fragrance. We came to fields where the California poppy of a rich orange color was numerous, and our road was one contin- uous enjoyment. The green pastures, flowers and the warm green spring were quite a change from snowy peaks where we had suffered so much." After visiting a few weeks with Sutter, who had generously furnished them with provisions, Fremont and his party continued south and up the valley to the headwaters of the San Joaquin River. Mount- ing through Walker Pass, named for Joseph Walker, who was one of the few early American explorers, Fremont crossed the Mohave Desert* and by the old Spanish trail to Salt Lake and then back over his old route to St. Louis. Fremont's third expedition was of tremendous im- portance to the United States and to civilization. President Polk and other far-sighted men of the gov- ernment, including Senator Benton, Fremont's father- in-law, could see the importance of securing to the United States the control of those lands bordering the western coast of the continent. They were de- sirable not only in themselves but as the gateway to India and the Orient. Polk's secretary of state, * Fremont named the river and desert after a native tribe. He spelled it "Mohahve," now written "Mohave." The Spaniards spelled the name "]\lojave/' taking the same pronunciation. 124 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 125 James Buchanan, afterward President, and another member of his cabinet, George Bancroft, the noted historian, were convinced that war with Mexico was certain to come in the very near future. If, when war was actually declared, the United States could have a force in this Mexican territory of California ready to raise her standard and claim the country for the United States, it would be a tremendous ad- vantage to this country. Having this in mind they interested themselves in Fremont's third expedition, and sent him on this peaceful errand of exploration which was to blossom into military activity and re- sulted in the acquisition by the United States of the Mexican territories of California, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico and a portion of Utah. In Fremont's party were Kit Carson; Dick Owens, after whom he named Owens Lake; twelve Delaware Indians; Preuss, his devoted friend and topographer; and about forty others. They crossed the plains, following the old trail to Salt Lake, and thence across Nevada, naming the river and moun^ tains which we know as the Humboldt after the great scientist. They crossed the Sierra Nevada Moun- tains and followed down the American River divide, reaching Sutter's fort in the Sacramento Valley, where they again enjoyed the open hospitality of John A. Sutter. From here Fremont went on to the town long be- fore founded by Anza and his party, Yerba Buena, 126 CALIFORNIA HISTORY a name later changed to San Francisco. Here he was the guest of a Mr. Leidesdorff, who had the finest house and the most beautiful garden in the lit- tle community, and Leidesdorff accompanied Fremont on to Monterey, where they visited the American con- sul, Mr. T. O. Larkin. Fremont wrote in his ''Mem- oirs" the following beautiful description of the Santa Clara Valley — the San Jose Valley, he calls it — and of Santa Cruz: The fertile valley of San Jose is a narrow plain of rich soil lying between equally fertile ranges from two thou- sand to three thousand feet high, covered on one side with wild oats, and wooded on the range toward the sea. The valley is op-enly wooded with groves of oak free from un- derbrush, and after the spring rains covered with grass. On the west it is protected from the chilling influences of the northwest winds by the Cuesta de los Gatos — Wild- Cat Ridge — which s-eparates it from the coast. Resuming the work of the expedition, on the 22d March we encamped on the Wild-Cat Ridge on the road to Santa Cruz, and again on the 23d near th-e summit. The varied character of th-e woods and shrubbery on this mountain, which lay between my camp and the Santa Cruz shore, was very interesting to me, and I wished to spend some days there, as now the spring season was renewing vege- tation, and the accounts of the great trees in the forest on the west slope of the mountain had roused my curiosity. Always, too, I had before my mind the home I wished to make in this country, and first one place and then another charmed me. But none seemed perfect where the sea was wanting, and so far I had not stood by the op-en waves of the Pacific. The soft climate of the San Jose Valley was very enticing, and in the interior I had seen lovely spots in the midst of the great pines where the mountains look- ed down, but the sea was lacking. The piny fragrance was grateful, but it was not the invigorating salt breeze which brings with it renewed strength. This I wanted for my mother. For me, the shore of "the sounding sea" was a pleasure of which I never wearied, and T knew that along this coast the sea brok-e deep against bold rocks or shining sands. All this I had reason to believe I would find somewhere on the Santa Cruz shore. We remained on the upper portion of the mountain several days. Th-e CALIFORNIA HISTORY 127 place of our encampment was two thousand feet above the sea, and was covered with a luxuriant growth of grass a foot high in many places. They called while at Monterey at the residence of Governor Pico, finding him absent, and also on the commanding officer of the Mexican forces, General Castro. Fremont told Castro that he was on a geo- graphical and topographical mission for his govern- ment, purely in the interest of science and commerce, with the intent also to find the best route for a road from the Atlantic to the Pacific. Castro, in the name of the Mexican government, granted permission to Fremont to carry on his work, but a few weeks later, while Fremont was camped in the Salinas Valley, he was ordered to leave the country. Fremont sent word to Castro in reply that he refused to comply with a request that was an insult to himself and to his gov- ernment. Moving his camp to the top of the ridge between the Salinas and San Juan Valleys, called Gavilan Peak, Fremont built a fort of heavy logs and raised the American flag to the cheering of his men. This was in 1846. Fremont, with a force of only forty men, in the heart of foreign territory and separated by a conti- nent from his government, defied the whole Mexican army. Had Castro's threat of force been carried out, history must have recorded for Fremont and Califor- nia a fight equal to Crockett's glorious defeat in the "Fall of the Alamo." Castro made no attempt, how- ever, to actively interfere with the intrepid Fremont. 128 CALIFORNIA HISTORY John Gilroy, an Englishman for whom the present town of Gilroy is named and who settled on its site, came to Fremont as Castro's messenger, asking him to join forces with the general in starting a revolu- tion against Governor Pico. Too wise to thus en- tangle himself and his government, Fremont refrain- ed from any hostile activity and proceeded with his mission of exploration. Consul Larkin reported to the then secretary of state as follows: "To Fremont is due from the Government unqualified praise for the patience, industry and indefatigable perseverance in obtaining the object he is engaged in," a report dated April, 1846. While in the upper Sacramento Valley, preparing to cross the mountains into Oregon and continue his explorations there, Fremont was overtaken by Lieu- tenant Archibald Gillespie, bearing special dispatches and verbal orders from the Government. Fremont was warned of impending war with Mexico and the desires of the Government with regard to California. He realized that the time had come to translate into action Senator Benton's vision and make the Pacific Ocean the western boundary of the United States. Fremont was in command of the only United States force west of the mountains, organized for explora- tion but by virtue of wilderness conditions equipped as a fighting force. He took the first step in this country's conquest of California and immediately commenced his military activities in accordance with CALIFORNIA HISTORY 129 130 CALIFORNIA HISTORY his instructions. He was at this time surrounded by hostile Indian tribes, and had it not been for the bra- very of his Delawares the party would have been massacred. As it was, in the several fights which took place, several of his men were killed. Return- ing down the Sacramento Valley, Fremont's force formed a nucleus around which the scattered Amer- icans of the territory gathered. This was a critical time in the history of Califor- nia and of the United States. For a long time the British Empire had looked with covetous eyes upon this region. Russia also had desired it, and Mexico had held it though doing little for its progress. Fre- mont's reports to the Government at Washington had aroused our statesmen to the knowledge that pos- session of California was necessary to the growth of the United States. Fremont became at this time a commanding and an heroic figure in the progress of events. With war at hand, a proclamation had been issued by the Mexicans ordering all foreigners out of the territory. An American, William B. Ide, who had settled in the upper Sacramento Valley, organized a group of men, thirty-two in all, who made a surprise attack on the military post at Sonoma. At this time Sonoma was but a small settlement of a few adobe houses, the barracks, the residence of General Val- lejo and that of Jacob Leese, grouped about the plaza. At daybreak on June 14, 1846, Ide's forces sur- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 131 rounded Vallejo's house. Aroused from sleep, Val- lejo surrendered. Marching to the fort, the men sur- rounded it and demanded its surrender. Without the firing of a shot the Mexican force of eighteen gave way to superior numbers, and the Americans came into possession of nine brass cannon, two hundred and fifty guns and some personal property. Ide is- sued a proclamation declaring California a republic. But a republic called for a flag, and Ide's force had none. One of the men made, from a piece of coarse white cloth, a flag* about three feet by six, bearing a single star, a bear, and the inscription, ''California Republic." Ide in a speech to the men of his company declared that the republic was found- ed on ''equal justice to all men." General Vallejo and a number of the prisoners were sent to Fremont, who sent them on to Sutter's Fort, where they were well treated. There were two unfortunate events, one the lassoing and dragging to death by the Mexicans of the two Americans, Cowie and Fowles; and the capture and killing by the Americans of Berreyesa and the Haros. War was now a certainty, though the aid of the United States was not sure. Fremont's orders were verbal ones and secret, and how far he and his men would go in support of the insurrection could not be * This original flag was preserved in San Francisco's Pioneer Hall until its destruction in the great fire of 1906. 132 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 133 known. Ide and his men knew that without Fremont's aid the recapture of Sonoma by Castro was sure. With the arrival at Sonoma of Fremont and his men, all uncertainty was removed and the rejoicing was great. News was received of the raising of the American flag at Monterey by Commodore Sloat, whose fleet was anchored in the bay, and Fremont issued a proclamation taking possession of the coun- try in the name of the United States. This was on July 7, 1846, and Commander John B. Montgomery of the U. S. S. Portsmouth, then in the Bay of San Francisco, was ordered to raise the American flag on the plaza there. Uncertainty still existed as to the extent of Fre- mont's verbal instructions as carried to him from Washington by Gillespie. Commodore Sloat had taken a decisive step. Was Fremont acting under his orders or independently? Sloat was uncertain as to his own authority, and doubtful as to the ex- tent of his orders. Fremont in the meantime had gone south, routing the Californians and proclaim- ing possession by the United States. General Kear- ny, famous Indian fighter, had fought the battle of San Pasqual near San Diego. Don Andreas Pico, brother of Governor Pico and commanding the Californians, retreated at the ap- proach of Kearny and his men. Kearny ordered an attack, and in their eagerness to come to close quarters those Americans who had better horses 134 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Proposed Memorial to the Battle of San Pasqual. quickly drew away from their comrades. When Pico saw that the American forces were becoming separated, he turned and began a running fight in which the Americans lost eighteen killed and wound- ed, among whom were both Kearny and Lieutenant Gillespie. The position of the Americans became critical. Kit Carson and Midshipman Edward Beale, after- ward a noted citizen of California with a large grant of land in Kern County, volunteered to make their CALIFORNIA HISTORY 135 Commodore R. F. Stockton in command of the U. S. S. Congress during the conquest of California. way through the enemy's Hnes to San Diego and secure help from the American forces there. Creeping through in the darkness of night, they reach- ed San Diego and secured reinforce- ments, resuUing in the surrender of the Mexican forces. In giving bat- tle to Pico, Kear- ny was acting in- dependently of the naval forces with which Fremont was working, and believing that this battle was un- necessary, the latter described it as an unfortunate affair. This was a further result of the uncertainty caused by the verbal instructions given to Fremont, which caused him, a military officer, to act with and under the instructions of Commodore Stockton rather than under the command of General Kearny, his ranking officer in the army. Kearny, angered by Fre- 136 CALIFORNIA HISTORY mont's frank criticism of his action at San Pasqual, ordered him as a prisoner to Washington, where he was courtmartialed and found guihy, only to be promptly pardoned by the President, who recognized his great services to the country. This battle of San Pasqual was the only conflict of note in the entire conquest of California. It was fought on De- cember 5, 1846. An appropriate memorial will be erected by the state to mark the site. On January 12, 1847, Governor Pico, at a place called Cahuenga, near the place where Hollywood now stands, signed the papers w4iich gave the United States full possession of California. Fremont ac- cepted them for our Government, and through those documents California, with other territory, was fi- nally definitely ceded to the United States by the treaty of Guadaloupe Hidalgo in 1848. Against the opposition of Kearny, Commodore Stockton appoint- ed Fremont acting governor of California. Kear- ny's charges, the courtmartial and the presidential pardon followed. Fremont's fourth expedition to California was by a new route, through New Mexico and Arizona, where he suft'ered many hardships, some of his men actually resorting to cannibalism. Settling in the state for which he had done so much, he was in 1850 elected United States Senator at the first elec- tion held for this office in the new state. He served for but three months, the short term — drawing lots CALIFORNIA HISTORY 137 with the other successful candidate to determine which should have the long term, and losing — and failed of re-election. He spent 1852 and 1853 in Paris, returning to lead a fifth expedition to California and make a sur- vey of his previous route. He was the candidate of the Republican party in 1856 for President, running second in the race and securing more than a million votes. Serving as major in the Civil War, he issued an order emancipating the slaves — this was in 1861 — and was demoted. He resigned from the army in 1862. He endeavored to promote a transcontinental railroad, and through his vision was later built the great railways which first spanned the country. His attempts to raise funds in Paris led to charges of fraud. Returning to this country he settled in New York, later serving a brief term as governor of the Territory of Arizona. He died in New York in 1890 at the age of 77 . Fremont was not the favorite of fortune. He was not mercenary. He was not fitted for the "system." Fle was an individual, and this chapter is written that Fremont's name, his hardships, his vision and his services may be accessible to the children of Califor- nia. Of his death his sweet and gentle wife, Jessie Benton Fremont, wrote: "Of the many kindnesses unknown Fate reserved for Fremont, the kindest was the last. He had just succeeded in a most cherished wish. Peace and rest 138 CALIFORNIA HISTORY were again secured, when he was attacked in New York by what he thought was a passing summer illness. His physician recognized danger, and quickly the cessation of pain showed a fatal condition. ''Night and day his loving son watched over hmi, and with their long-time friend and physician, kept unbroken his happy composure. Rousing from a prolonged, deep sleep the General said: 'If I con- tinue so comfortable I can finish my writing next week and go home.' Seeing the eyes closing again, his physician said, to test the mind: 'Home? Where do you call home. General?' One last clear look, a pleased smile: 'California, of course.'" "Here, scholar, cavalier, Bayard of thy brave new land, Poppi-es for thy bed and bier. Dreamful poppies foot and hand. "Poppies garmented in gold; Poppies of the land you won — Love and gratitude untold — Poppies — peace — the setting sun!" * John C. Fremont in his book, "Memoirs of My Life," writes of th-e naming of the Golden Gate: "To this gate I gave the name of Chrysopylae, or Golden Gate, for the same reasons that the harbor of Byzantium (Constantinople) was named the Golden Horn (Chrysoceras)." The name was suggested to him by the beauty of the sunset, the gatelike entrance to the bay, and the value of the harbor for the commerce of the world. He put the name on the map that was sent to the Senate of the United Sta'-s, in June, 1848. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 139 CHAPTER XVII JOHN BIDWELL PROJECT — PIONEER SETTLEMENT IN NORTH- ERN CALIFORNIA. Topics — The First Organized Party for the Golden State. John Bidwell, a Fine Leader. Bidwell and the Bear - Flag Republic. Bidwell at His Chico Home. Bidwell, a Progressive Statesman. Mrs. Bidwell, a Fine Type of Pioneer Woman. John Bidwell, an early settler in California, A\^hose work has left its impress on the state, was born in 1819 in New York of New England parents. At the age of two his family moved to Pennsylvania and later to Ohio, where he lived until he was nine- teen. When seventeen years old he entered Kings- ville Academy, which he reached by walking three hundred miles. So well did he do his work that at eighteen he was chosen principal of the same acad- emy. The following year he returned home and taught school during the winter. During these months he decided to come west, so with a stout heart, and but seventy-five dollars in his pocket he started upon a career unique in the annals of his 140 CALIFORNIA HISTORY newly-adopted land, which then belonged to Mexico. His journey was full of adventure. He stopped in Missouri to earn money by teaching, as well as with some in- tention of staying in that state, and it was not until 1841 that his par- ty, the first or- ganized party to cross the moun- tains for Califor- nia, reached the Golden Gate. This was long before the gold rush. B i d w e 1 1 was leader of the par- ty, and soon after arriving in this John Bidwell, pioneer, who settled at Chico. 1849. state he became prominent in California affairs. Soon after arrival he went to Sutter's Fort and, entering the employ of General Sutter, remained nearly three years in his service. It was while working for Sutter that he, in company with such pioneers as Lassen, Thomes, Chard, Dye, Toomes and Reading, came up the valley to a point above CALIFORNIA HISTORY 141 Red Bluff. During this trip he named the many streams flowing into the Sacramento, and also saw the site of his future home at Chico. In 1844, during the Alvarado rebellion, Bidwell and Sutter, who were loyal to the governor, Michel- torena, were taken prisoners, but were soon released. In 1846 Bidwell was prominent in the conquest un- der Fremont, being one of the committee to form- ulate a plan for the California Republic, and having personal charge of General Vallejo, who was taken at Sonoma. Later Commodore Stockton commis- sioned Bidwell a lieutenant, and still later a major. After peace was declared. he returned to Sutter's Fort and became manager for that property as well as surveyor of all recent Mexican grants. In 1849 Bidwell purchased his Chico home, where he lived the remainder of his life. He was elected a member of the first constitutional convention, but failed to receive notification of his election in time to attend. That same year he was elected a mem- ber of the first state senate, and as such helped frame the first laws of the new state. In 1860 he was in the Charleston Democratic convention and voted for Stephen A. Douglas for the nomination for Presi- dent, and four years later was a member of the Bal- timore Republican convention, voting for Lincoln. That same year he was elected to Congress by a big majority. He served two years and refused re- election. Governor Stanford later making him brig- 142 CALIFORNIA HISTORY adier-general of the Fifth Brigade of state mihtia. While in Washington he met Miss Annie Ken- nedy, daughter of the superintendent of the census of 1850 and of 1860, and in 1868 they were married. On the Chico ranch they erected a beautiful man- sion, and planted many varieties of trees, the farm becoming one of the most famous in the state. In this home men of fame were often received. The Bidwells were consistent members of the Presbyte- rian church, and ardent lovers of education. They gave liberally to induce the state to locate the nor- mal school at Chico, and until his death the General was a trustee of that institution. In 1872 Bidwell was a candidate for governor on an independent ticket, but failed to be elected, al- Chico in 1854. (From an old print) CALIFORNIA HISTORY 143 though he ran close to the Repubhcan candidate. Very early, General Bidwell became convinced that the traffic in alcoholic liquors was wrong, and to prove his sincerity he uprooted all his wine grapes and became an advocate of temperance. His wife was for many years a leader among the women in this work. In 1890 the Prohibition party honored Bidwell by running him for governor, and two years later he was given the nomination of the same party for President. His popularity was shown by over 260,000 votes, the largest number polled to that date by his party. Bidwell was a statesman, but not a blind party follower. He was deeply interested in affairs tend- ing to promote his part of the state, and donated liberally to roads, river navigation and railways, as well as to churches and schools. He was a lover of' flowers and could name every variety on his great farm. A lover of astronomy, he was a student of that science. His knowledge of surveying he put to good use in his new home, laying out many of the roads in Butte County. But his crowning glory was his treatment of the Indians of his community. While he obtained legal possession of his lands from Mexico, he recognized that the natives who ran wild and free over his do- main had some rights and he became their protector. The men found work on the farm, and the women were given lighter employment. Land was set aside 144 CALIFORNIA HISTORY for each family, homes were buih for them, and a church erected for their worship. In that httle chapel, for years, Mrs. Bidwell conducted religious worship for her charges. Under the Bidwell regime, the Indians developed into substantial citizens, and many of the younger ones were given good educa- tions through the generosity of their patrons. In addition to his many honors, he served for a time as regent of the State University, and his was the first name on the roll of that institution as a graduate, receiving the degree of A.M. in the early days of the school. John Bidwell died in 1900. It has been said of him: "He was the foe of ignorance and vice; the friend and patron of enlightenment. When from his bounty he gave his choice gifts for the advance of education and morality, this he did not as a char- ity, but in the line of his high ideal of citizenship and patriotic duty, as sacred trusts for high and lofty ends. Of none could it be better said: 'His life was gentle and the elements so mixed in him that nature might stand up and say to all the world, "This is a man." ' " CALIFORNIA HISTORY 145 CHAPTER XVIII PETER LASSEN PROJECT — PETER LASSEN, PIONEER. Topics — First Sawmill. Cattle Ranch. Service to Gil- lespie and Fremont. Peter Lassen was born in the city of Copenhagen, Denmark, August 7, 1800. He finished his appren- ticeship as a blacksmith when he was 27 years old, and two years later emigrated to Boston, Massachu- setts, later moving to Missouri. In the spring of 1839, the year in which Captain Sutter established his trading post in the Sacra- mento Valley, Lassen left Missouri and crossed the plains to Oregon. Arriving in the Willamette Val- ley and not being satisfied with the prospects, Las- sen took passage on an English vessel for California, landing at the Russian post of Bodega. Mexican troops endeavored to prevent the landing of Lassen and his party. Lassen wrote the American consul at Monterey, advising him of the destitute condition of the Americans and that they had determined to land under the protection of the Russians ; further, that if they did not hear from him in fifteen days 146 CALIFORNIA HISTORY they intended to start out, protecting themselves with their guns. Finally securing permission to remain, Lassen went south to the Santa Clara Valley and in 1841 bought some land near Santa Cruz, where he built a saw- mill, said to be the first in operation in California. He later traded the mill for a hundred or two mules and in 1842 drove them to the vicinity of Sutter's Fort, where they ranged while Lassen was in Sut- ter's employ. In 1843 Lassen, John Bidwell and others pursued a party of emigrants on their way to Oregon and, overtaking them near the present site of Red Bluff, recovered from them some stolen animals. Lassen was greatly pleased with the valley of the upper Sac- ramento, then entirely unsettled, and after his re- turn applied to Governor Micheltorena for a tract of land. This grant was called Bosquejo, and was on Deer Creek in what is now Tehama County. Surrounded by hundreds of Indians, Lassen lived here alone for months, in perfect safety. Not one of his several hundred head of stock was ever dis- turbed by the Indians. He treated them fairly and was trusted by them. Lassen laid out here a town called Benton City. It was here Fremont with fifty of his men stayed for three weeks in the spring of 1846; and it was here that, in April of 1846, eight days after Fremont had left on his way to Oregon, Lieutenant Gillespie arrived with dispatches for him. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 147 Lassen, with several other men, started with Gil- lespie to overtake Fremont. On May 8 two of these men rode into Fremont's camp on the west side of Klamath Lake and told him an officer was trying to overtake him with dispatches from the govern- ment; and that Gillespie's party was in great dan- ger from the Indians and would all be killed unless help was sent at once. Fremont immediately started back with a small party of his men, riding sixty miles that day. Gillespie reached their camp at sundown, and that night they were attacked by Indians, three of Fremont's Delawares being killed. Had it not been for Lassen's knowledge of the country, enabling Gillespie to safely reach Fremont, these dispatches might never have been delivered; Fremont would have continued to Oregon and the whole course of events changed. England, hover- ing near the gate, would have entered California. Lassen, treating the Indians with all friendliness, had great confidence in them, and it was this confi- dence which brought about his death in 1859. He and two other men set out on a prospecting trip to the Black Rock region in northwestern Nevada, in search of silver. They camped one evening in a can- yon and while getting supper an Indian, carrying a muzzle loading rifle, came into camp. The Indian had neither powder, caps nor bullets, and in dumb show made known his wants. Wyatt and Clapper, Lassen's companions, objected, but Lassen insisted 148 CALIFORNIA HISTORY upon giving the Indian a good supply of ammuni- tion, saying that all the Indians knew "Uncle Pete" and would not harm him. Just at daybreak the following morning, Wyatt was awakened by the report of a rifle. He sprang from his blankets and called his companions. Clap- per was dead, shot through the temple. "Uncle Pete" stood by his bed, rifle in hand, trying to dis- cover where the shot had come from. A second shot, and Lassen fell, fatally wounded. A brave pioneer and an honest, kindly man, Las- sen's name stands fairly with that of Svitter and Bidwell. Mount Lassen, our only active volcano, commemorates his name, and his memory is honored as well in the Lassen National Park, Lassen County and the Lassen school district of Tehama County. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 149 CHAPTER XIX THE DONNER PARTY PROJECT— CROSSING THE PLAINS IN COVERED WAGONS, 1846. Topics — Finding a New Trail. The Tragedy of the Plains. The Approach of Winter. The Storm in the Mountains at Donner Lake. Starvation. The Relief Party. One of the deeper shadows which fall across the pages of California history is the story of the Don- ner party, that little band of starving people who one by one died in the snows of the desolate Sierras un- til only a handful escaped to reach the green valley of the Sacramento. Theirs is a story of almost in- credible hardship and privation, of weak cowardice on the part of some and of the noble bravery of oth- ers; a story of indescribable suffering and death. It is a story which has given a name to one of Cali- fornia's loneliest lakes, now marked with a monu- ment of stone and bronze, a monument not more enduring than the story of the men, women and chil- dren who suffered by the frozen shores of the moun- tain-encircled lake. 150 CALIFORNIA HISTORY On the Overland Trail. (From an old print) These picturesque caravans of covered wagons have been the source of material for poets, novelists and historians. Early in the year of 1846 a party of emigrants was preparing to leave Illinois for that wonderful land of sunshine and flowers which lay so far to the west. For several years people had been making the long trip in increasing numbers and tales of the won- derland crept back to draw more and more people CALIFORNIA HISTORY 151 to the shore of the Pacific. Neighbor had talked to neighbor, until now, in April, several families of Springfield had decided to make the venture. They had sold their Illinois land, loaded their wagons with supplies for the long journey and with the things they would need in the new land. There were in the party thirty-one persons, who had placed themselves under the leadership of Jacob Donner* and James F. Reed, with twelve loaded wagons and their cattle and horses. Knowing little of the country they were to penetrate and of its dan- gers, the venture seemed to them a pleasure trip. The prairies were green with spring. Their animals were fresh and vigorous. Feed and Mater for them were abundant. Rumor of trouble with the Indians there was, of course, but the men were well armed and confident of their ability to care for the safety of the party. Then, too, there were constant addi- tions to the train as it travelled farther and farther west. Other families with their stock and wagons joined the band until by the time the valley of the Platte was reached the train numbered close to forty wagons, a strong and confident caravan. They saw many Indians and had many adventures both with the wild men of the plains and with the * Patrick Breen, who was a member of the party, wrote a diary of the events. The Breen family were afterwards prominent in Cahfornia, one of them a judge in San Benito County for many years. Among other well known names were Murphy, Graves, Harlan, Ritchie, Bryant, Grayson, Dunleavy, Russell, West, etc. 152 CALIFORNIA HISTORY animals which were so plentiful along their route. Not all the trouble was with the Indians. With so large a party, travelling together day after day, dif- ferences of opinion were bound to arise, and some of these differences developed into serious quarrels. Some flared and were fought out. Other quarrels smouldered, only to break out later on. It had been the intention of the leaders of the party to travel to California over the regular route, the Fort Hall road, as it was called. But at Fort Bridger a man by the name of Hastings told them of a route he had discovered which was at least three hundred miles shorter than the old trail and strongly advised them to take it. Most of the train decided against the change of route, but a number of the families, including Donner and Reed, turned their wagons and started on the Hasting's Cut-oft'. The directions given by Hastings were vague and the party lost much time. They found the course through Weber Pass rough and almost impossible of passage with their wagons. Both cattle and men were worn and almost exhausted. Longer on the way than they had expected, their provisions were running low, and before them lay a wide reach of desert without water or grass. They feared their food would not last them until they reached Califor- nia. Some of their decreasing oxen were lost in the desert waste, when they rushed wildly toward what CALIFORNIA HISTORY 153 seemed a body of water, but which proved to be a mirage, deceiving some of the men as well. As the emigrants neared the Sierra Nevada Moun- tains, the conditions were so desperate with the near approach of winter that two men of the party, C. T. Stanton, and William McCutchen, volunteered to go on in advance of the train and try and reach Sutter's Fort, where they expected to be able to secure pro- visions and assistance. Carrying letters to Captain Sutter and leaving behind them^ their almost starv- ing friends, the two men quickly passed from sight. At the crossing of the Humboldt River one of the smouldering quarrels burst forth. The crossing was so rough and the oxen so nearly exhausted, it was found necessary to double the teams, six oxen to a wagon. Reed was away with his gun, hoping to add a deer to their scanty supply, and a man named Elliott was driving Reed's team, which at the time was hitched with a team driven by John Snyder. Snyder was a man of rather ugly disposition, and there had been ill-feeling between Elliott and him- self for some time. As they urged the weary teams up the steep slope with the heavy wagon, Snyder brutally beat the oxen with his goad, and when Elliott remonstrated Sny- der attacked him. Reed, returning just at this time, interfered in Elliott's behalf, and was in turn at- tacked by the maddened Snyder, who struck him repeatedly with the butt of the ox-goad. Reed's wife. CALIFORNIA HISTORY North Fork of the American River. The sides of this canyon are scarred with the overgrown trails of the pioneers of '49. Mil- lions of dollars in gold dust and nuggets have been taken from the canyon. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 155 fearful for his safety, rushed to his assistance and was struck by Snyder. Reed then drew his hunting knife and instantly killed Snyder. Excited by the tragedy, friends of the slain man would have hung Reed at once to a wagon pole, but it was finally decided to banish him from the train. The first intention was to send him off without sup- plies, but Reed's little daughter carried to him a small bag of provisions and a gun, ajid, mounted on his gray racing mare. Reed went on ahead of the party. Much injustice has been done Reed in the various accounts of the Donner party. That he killed Sny- der is not denied, but it was done after great prov- ocation and in defense of his wife, whose life he justly believed to be in danger. Reed was a strong man and a good leader. That he was a brave man is proved by his later return through the deep moun- tain snows with provisions, after he had himself safely reached the valley. Shortly after Reed's departure, Stanton returned from Fort Sutter with a pack train of seven mules, loaded with provisions. McCutchen, being ill, was not able to return. Stanton brought news to Mrs. Reed of her husband, whom he had passed well on his way to Sutter's Fort. It was now nearing the end of October and snow had already fallen on the higher peaks. C. F. McGlashen tells of the situa- tion in these words : 156 CALIFORNIA HISTORY "Generally the ascent of the Sierras brought joy and gladness to weary overland emigrants. To the Donner party it brought terror and dismay. The party had hardly obtained a glimpse of the moun- tains ere the winter storm clouds began to assemble their hosts around the loftier crests. Every day the weather appeared more ominous and threatening. The delay at the Truckee Meadows had been brief, but every day ultimately cost a dozen lives. ''On the twenty-third of October they became thor- oughly alarmed at the angry heralds of the gather- ing storm and with all haste resumed their jour- ney. It was too late! "At Prosser Creek, three miles below Truckee, they found themselves encompassed with six inches of snow^ On the summits the snow was from two to five feet deep. This was October 28, 1846. Al- most a month earlier than usual, the Sierra had donned its mantle of ice and snow. The party were prisoners. All was consternation. The wildest confusion prevailed. In their eagerness many went off in advance of the main train. There was little concert of action or harmony of plan. All did not arrive at Donner Lake the same day. Some wagons and families did not reach the lake until the 31st day of October; some never went farther than Prosser Creek, while others, on the evening of the 29th, struggled through the snow and reached the foot of the precipitous cliff's between the summit and CALIFORNIA HISTORY 157 the upper end of the lake. Here, baffled, wearied and disheartened, they turned back to the foot of the lake." Finding it impossible to proceed, cabins* were built and the cattle killed for food. The company pre- pared as best they could to remain until the spring. The shelter was poor and snow drifted freely through the roofs and walls of the cabins. For days and nights at a time wet clothing was worn with no means of drying it. Food was giving out and people were dying of starvation. Hides and even boots were boiled for food. C. T. Stanton again offered to go to the valley for help. With Patrick Dolan, a big hearted Irish- man, and thirteen others, Stanton started out across the wilderness of snow-covered ridges and deep can- ons. To Mrs. Reed and her little family, Dolan gave his pitifully little share of food. Through almost constant storms, over the increasingly deep snows, the men struggled on. Brave Stanton, blinded by the snow, was unable to win through, and died in the mountains. One by one others died, and when the few remaining members of the relief party finally * The Townsend-Murphy party had camped here the previous year and a few cabins remained. The cabin which th-e Breen fam- ily occupied was built in 1844 by Joseph Foster, Allan Montgom- ery and M. Schallenberger (father of Margaret Schallenberger Mc- Naught), members of the Townsend-Murphy party. Young Schal- lenberger, then a youth of seventeen, occupied the Breen cabin alone during most of the winter of 1844-45, Foster and Montgom- ery being able to make their way to Sutter's Fort on snow shoes. He kept himself alive by eating foxes, which he trapped. 158 CALIFORNIA HISTORY This monument has been erected at Donner Lake in the high Sierras in memory of the Donner party. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 159 reached an Indian camp, it is said that the Indian women wept at their pitiful appearance. Only seven of the fifteen men who left the lake survived. Captain Sutter, hearing of the privations of the party at the lake, sent out his Indians with loaded mules. In all four relief expeditions were sent, one headed by the same James Reed who had been ban- ished from the party, but before aid could reach the snow-imprisoned people forty-two had perished. Of the eighty-one who had been caught at Donner Lake only forty-five people were rescued and taken to the California valleys. The names of many of these have since become linked with the history and prog- ress of California. 160 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER XX THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD PROJECT— THE PRODUCTION OF GOLD IN CAL- IFORNIA. Topics — Discovery of Gold in Southern California, 1842. John Augustus Sutter and Sutter's Fort. James W. Marshall. Discovery of Gold at Sutter's Mill, January, 1848. Rush to the Mines. Northern and Southern Mines. Panning Gold. The Rocker. Sluicing Gold. Hydraulic Mining. Gold Dredging. The Mother Lode. Quartz Mining. Early Mining Towns. This is the story of the Argonauts,* those hardy men of '49 and the early '50's who crossed the wide prairies, and the rough and trackless mountains, to search for the long hidden gold of the northern Cal- ifornia hills, the true Golden Fleece which Jason had sought in the dim and ancient days. Gold was first discovered in California, so far as there is authentic record, in southern California, about thirty-five miles northeast of Los Angeles and * Argonaut was th-e name originally given to those who sailed with Jason in his ship Argo in search of the fabled Golden Fleece. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 161 not far from the old Mission of San Fernando. It was not found in large quantities and the shallow diggings were quickly ex- hausted, which no doubt accounts for the lack of ex- citement elsewhere than in the immediate vicinity. This was in 1842. In Northern California the Indians undoubtedly knew of the existence of gold, for we know that small quan- tities of it were occasionally brought to Monterey as ear- ly as 1843. But the real discovery, that which was of such supreme importance to California, came later. The climate of the lands bordering on the Pacific Coast, together with the reports of their wonderful fertility and the wealth to be obtained, was already turning the feet of the bolder pioneers westward, and after the close of the Mexican War several thou- sand of the adventurers had settled in various parts of Oregon and California. The tide was, however, flowing more strongly toward the settlements of the Willamette Valley, in Oregon, than toward the seem- ingly more barren lands of California, when the news James W. Marshall, who dis- covered gold at Coloma in 1848. 162 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 163 of the discovery of the vastly rich gold deposits on the American River began to filter through. Immediately the trains of settlers which were on their way across the plains turned to the new El Dorado. Other trains started forth, many of them little prepared in their haste for the hardships ahead. Ships left the ports of the Atlantic Coast, some to sail around the Horn, others to land their passen- gers and cargoes at the Isthmus of Panama, whence the gold seekers would re-ship on the Pacific side. The first trickle of the tide of immigration into the new land had swelled to a mighty flood, and it is estimated that in the year following the discovery of the American River diggings fully 30,000 people braved the hardships of the several routes and ar- rived in California. Among those who had settled in California, at- tracted by its possibilities in cattle raising, in trad- ing and perhaps in agriculture, was John Augustus Sutter, born of Swiss parents in Baden, February 15, 1803. After serving in the French army, where he became a captain, he came to America to select a place for a colony, and first located in Missouri. In company with a party of hunters, he travelled through what is now New Mexico and as far north as Fort Vancouver. He took ship for the Sandwich Islands, from there to Sitka, and then down the coast to San Francisco Bay to the little town of Yerba Buena. 164 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 165 He secured from the Mexican government a grant of a large tract of land in the Sacramento Valley and in 1839 built, near the junction of the Sacra- mento and American Rivers, within what is now the limits of the city of Sacramento, a trading post and later an adobe fort.* Captain Sutter had in his employ many Indians, and under his directions they raised wheat and cat- tle, which were sold to the settlers who were already coming in. The fort served as a trading post, from which was supplied almost all of the vast expanse of the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers. Fremont stopped at Sutter's Fort on sev- eral occasions, and was most hospitably received, and from the fort went forth many expeditions of relief to bands of immigrants who had fallen prey to hard- ships of the long trail. Sutter was a generous and open-handed man. Among the supplies urgently needed by the set- tlers was lumber for building. Hitherto the build- ings had been constructed almost entirely of adobe, the soil of the prairies being mixed with chopped grass or tules and pressed into large bricks, which were dried in the sun. Seeing the need for lumber. Captain Sutter determined to establish a sawmill and fixed upon a site on the south fork of the American River, about forty-five miles from the fort, a place * This fort, rebuilt on the same site and according to the orig- inal plan, is now used as a pioneer museum, containing many in- teresting relics of the days of gold. 166 CALIFORNIA HISTORY recommended to him by James W. Marshall, whom he had sent out for this purpose. Under Marshall's direction a road was built to the site of the mill and supplies carried in, and on January 23, 1848, the mill had been erected and was ready for use. To clear the millrace of debris, Mar- shall opened the floodgates and allowed the stream to run all night. In the morning he closed off the flow of water and walked down the bed of the race to see that all was in readiness. The light soil and sand had been carried off by the swift water, and among the pebbles which re- mained in the millrace Marshall saw some which shone yellow through the shallow water which cov- ered them. He picked up several of the pebbles and found that they were heavy, and that they could be hammered out like metal. Marshall says: "I thought it was gold, and yet it did not seem to be of the right color; all the gold coin I had seen was of a reddish tinge; this looked more like brass. I recalled to mind all the metals I had ever seen or heard of, but I could find none that resem- bled this. . . . Putting one of the pieces on a hard river stone, I took another and commenced ham- mering it. It was soft and didn't break: it there- fore must be gold, but largely mixed with some other metal, very likely silver; for pure gold, 7 thought, would certainly have a brighter color. . . . "When I returned to our cabin for breakfast I CALIFORNIA HISTORY 167 showed the two pieces to my men. They were all a good deal excited, and had they not thought that the gold only existed in small quantities they would have abandoned everything and left me to finish my job alone. . . . "While we were working in the race after this dis- covery we always kept a sharp lookout, and in the course of three or four days we had picked up about three ounces — our work still progressing as lively as ever, for none of us imagined at that time that the whole country was sowed with gold. . . ." On Marshall's next trip to the fort he told Sutter of the find, and showed him specimens of the gold. Sutter tested the nuggets* and found that Marshall really had found gold, but it seemed more important to him that his mill should produce lumber, and fearing that the men who were building a flour mill for him near the fort would desert their work and hasten to the mountains. Captain Sutter tried to keep the discovery a secret. Too many knew of the discovery. The news spread through the little colony about the fort, and to Mon- terey and Yerba Buena. It was not long before the towns on the coast were practically deserted, with their former citizens scattered over the foothills and * Captain Sutter turned to his books and read all that was given there as to the tests for gold. He was not prepared, of course, to test it except in a crude way, but be tried it in acid, hammered it, weighed it, and — it is said — even put some of the pieces in the water where a woman was boiling clothes. 168 CALIFORNIA HISTORY the lower slopes of the Sierras. Dispatches had been sent to Washington by the government officials at Monterey. The news spread through the east and through the newly settled territory of the middle west. All was excitement; all were eager to see the land of gold. No story was too wild to be believed. But little was known of the method of digging gold. Ships were loaded with all sorts of ingenious contrivances for separating gold from the soil, all of them equally worthless. Men set sail for Cali- fornia with no equipment other than the clothes they wore, expecting to pick up the nuggets from the sur- face of the ground. Ships sailing to the Isthmus were crowded with adventurers; even their decks were filled with passengers, all of whom were put ashore at Panama to make their way on foot, on mules, as best they could to the Pacific side, where they sometimes waited weeks for a vessel to carry them north to San Francisco Bay. Unwilling to wait for a ship to carry them around the Horn or to the Isthmus, thousands started over- land by wagon. The way was better marked now than it had been a few years before, but it still was a journey of terrible hardships. Ignorance of the equipment necessary for the trip brought unneces- sary privation to most of the adventurers. They lacked the things they needed and were burdened with things they could not use. The long trail was littered with the goods thrown away, with broken CALIFORNIA HISTORY 169 wagons and dead oxen and horses. The way was dotted with the low mounds which marked the graves of men and women and children. Gold had been found first on the south fork of the American River, and the first rush was to the dig- gings there. It took but a short time to fill to over- flowing the little valley where Sutter had built his mill, and then the eager men surged out over the hills around. Color* was found every place, it seem- ed. The low hills bordering the east side of the San Joaquin and Sacramento Valleys from what is now Mariposa County north to Shasta all gave trace of gold. Some was found close to the surface, ''in the grass-roots"; some was buried deep in the river bars. In the deep canons leading far back into the high Sierras, gold was found in gravel bars and along the ridges. It was picked by the handful from crevices in the rocks. What wonder that wild tales were taken all over the world of the ease with which wealth could be gathered in the mines of California. What wonder that every ship turned its prow toward the Golden Gate, bringing men of every nation. And what wonder that ships were deserted of their crews and captains on arrival in San Francisco Bay, all joining the mad rush to the mines. The mining region was spoken of as the Southern and the Northern mines. Those whose destination * When niiirers find traces of gold they say they have found color. 170 CALIFORNIA HISTORY was the Southern diggings, located in Mariposa, Tu- okmine, Amador and Calaveras Counties, usually went from San Francisco to Stockton, where they outfitted for the mines. The starting point for the Northern mines was Sacramento, whence the trails led to the mines of El Dorado, Placer, Yuba and the region of the Feather. The Cosumnes River was the dividing line between the Northern and Southern mines. The methods of the early miners were crude. They made rude bowls from sections of logs, batteaux they called them, and washed the gravel in these. Later they used shallow iron pans with sloping sides. Fill- ing one of these with the dirt or gravel supposed to contain gold — "pay-dirt," they called it — the miner carried it to the bank of the stream and, with a pe- culiar circular motion of the pan beneath the sur- face of the w^ater, quickly washed away the lighter dirt, leaving the heavy pebbles and the gold. This was called "panning." Later they constructed what was called a ''rocker," a contrivance into which the pay dirt was shoveled while water was poured on from dippers, meanwhile rocking the contrivance from side to side. The dirt was washed away, the pebbles screened to one side and the gold, because of its great weight, safely held in the "riffles" at the bottom. Two or more men usu- ally worked on one rocker and it was found to be CALIFORNIA HISTORY 171 172 CALIFORNIA HISTORY An illustration used in a book in London in 1850 describ- ing the California gold fields. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 173 Panning out gold. (From an old London reprint) much quicker than panning. A longer form of rocker was called a ''Long Tom." Still later another method of working was used. Long sluice boxes were built, sometimes of hand- hewed boards, for sawed lumber was very scarce. These were placed end to end in a long line along the bed of the stream where the miners were work- ing. Riffles, which were little cross-bars, were laid in the lower end of the sluice line, and a stream of water allowed to flow through from above. Then into the swiftly flowing water the pay dirt was shov- eled, the dirt and rocks driving quickly through, the gold remaining. 174 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Water was very necessary in this kind of mining, called placering or placer mining, and because of it the early miners divided the diggings into two groups. The diggings on the higher ridges where there was water only during the winter and the early spring, they called the "dry diggings"; the river bars and beds they called "wet diggings". And very wet some of them proved to be, for sometimes companies of miners would work for months building a wing dam and sluice so as to turn the water aside from the river bed and carry it by, thus allowing the miners to secure the gold from the deep holes, only to have a flood come down from the higher hills and sweep all their work away. So many thousands of miners quickly exhausted the shallow diggings and in a few years another method came into use, called hydraulic mining. Wa- ter was carried in ditches about the sides of the hills until it was high above the gulch where the gold was to be washed, then it was carried straight down the side of the gulch in iron pipes and canvas hose, driving through a nozzle with tremendous force just as water is forced by a' fire engine through a hose. This stream of water, having such force that a man could not cut through it with an axe, was directed against the side of the gulch, and it quickly washed away soil and gravel ; even huge boulders were moved by the stream. This method of mining is now not allowed by law, because it was found that the rivers CALIFORNIA HISTORY 175 were being filled up with the dirt washed down from the hills, and that the river steamers soon would not be able to float in their old channels. As in so many different kinds of work, it was found that machinery could be used to do the work of many men in gathering gold from the gravel of the California streams, and great, un- g a i n 1 y contrivances were built called gold- A modern dredger at work. boatS Or dredgers. It is with these that gold is now mined from the river beds and valleys. Built on a great, flat-bottomed boat, the dredger carries an endless chain of huge buckets. These buckets, built of strong steel, dig deep into the gravel and make a pit filled with water in which the dredger floats. As the gravel is brought up by the buckets it is dumped into sluices in the boat itself, and as in the sluices of the early miners the gold sinks to the bottom and is caught in the riffles, while the peb- bles and heavy stones are carried away by the water and fill up the pit behind the boat. The dredger seems like some huge monster, devouring the land as it slowly moves along. The early dredgers as they worked the gravel of the level valley near Folsom or Oroville, left behind 176 CALIFORNIA HISTORY them a desolate country where before had been fields and orchards, for the lighter soil was covered with huge piles of rounded pebbles. Now, because it was found that the crude dredgers of the earlier days had lost much gold, these fields are being worked again, and this time it has been found possible to put the rock below where it belongs, with the fertile soil above. Soon orchards will be blooming where was desolation for so long. The early miners, of course, wondered where all the gold had come from. Some said that it came originally from volcanoes, some that it had been washed down from solid ledges of gold far back in the mountains; and so the miners were always hunting for that ledge, which they called the ''Mother Lode." They never found the source of all the gold taken from California's placers, for that was at the head of a river that long since ceased to flow, but they did find many rich mines, and up in Amador County near San Andreas and Angel's Camp was found a ledge of gold so rich that it has ever since been known as the ''Mother Lode." These "ledges" are of hard stone, called quartz, and in this quartz is the gold. Sometimes the gold can be seen and then it is said to be free gold, in specks and in threads running through the quartz. ]\Iore often the gold is so finely divided that it can- not be seen, but in either case the rock must be crush- ed so that the gold may escape. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 177 Where the diggings were richest there formed towns. Some of these towns, where at one time were thousands of busy men, are now but names with not even a blackened stone to mark a miner's cabin. Along Auburn ravine, in Placer County not far from Sacramento, where were the richest of the early dig- gings, there were once half a dozen towns: Ophir, Gold Hill, Newtown, Virginiatown, and others. At Gold Hill was once a town of more than a thousand inhabitants ; now there remains only a tiny cemetery with its moss grown stones. At Encampment at Sacramento, November, 1849. Virginiatown was a lit- tle city of several thou- sand, where now stand a few crumbling adobe ruins amid bearing orchards. Newtown is scarcely a memory, for not a trace re- mains. Some of the towns of the old days still live. Au- burn is a thriving city, as is Placerville, the ''Hang- town" of the old days. San Andreas and Angel's Camp, on the ''Mother Lode," are full of quaint re- minders of the days of the Argonauts, and Sonora is one of the towns which has held its own. Near Sonora is the town of Columbia, once with a popu- lation of ten thousand, boasting of numerous stone buildings, a great brick church, and three fire de- 178 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 179 partments. At one time so great was its import- ance that it was proposed to make it the capital of CaHfornia. Now there Hve amid the crmiibhng buildings less than a hundred people. The streets, curbed with pure white marble from the hills around, are grass- grown and empty. The brick church stands deso- late and alone in its little plot, for the country round about has been denuded of earth up to the very bor- der of the cemetery, which adjoins the church, leav- ing it perched high up above the bedrock. The walls of the old Wells-Fargo Express office in the lower Auburn ravine. This was once the site of rich "diggings.' 180 CALIFORNIA HISTORY This is the country of Bret Harte and Mark Twain, for it was near Sonora and Cohuiibia that they passed some of their time in the w^est. This is the country described by Mark Twain in "Rough- ing It," and the scene of many of Bret Harte's sto- ries. Of those days and scenes Cahfornia's own great poet, Joaquin Miller, has sung: ''We have worked our claims. We have spent our gold; Our barks are astrand on the bars; We are battered and old, Yet at night we behold Outer oppings of gold in the stars. 'Tho' battered and old, Our hearts are bold. Yet oft do we repine For the days of old, For the days of gold, For the days of '49." An old prospector. An interesting sidelight of life in California at this period is given by Jessie Heaton Parkinson in her book, ''Adventuring in California". This writer was so fortunate as to secure the diary of two prospect- ors. They were the original partners in Bret Harte's story, "Tennessee", which attracted almost world- wide interest. A portion of the diary reads : CALIFORNIA HISTORY 181 'The week ending April 10. We have taken $162. 'The week ending April 17. Our lead is crooked and we have only taken $60. (From "Adventuring in California," by Jennie Heaton Parkinson) Chaffee and Chamberlain, typical miners of the days of '49. The original characters of Bret Harte's "Tennessee's Partner." 'The week ending April 24. Have taken $348. 'The week ending May 8. Have taken $250. Pratt went to Sonora. On his way back, bought 2 cows. Paid $150 for them. 'The water has failed. We discharge our men & give up washing for the season, & June 26, 1853, Chaffee & I start for San Jose, to see what the pros- pects are in that burg. We walk 20 miles & stop at Shoemakes(?). We were disappointed in getting a seat out of 3 stages, & finally take passage in a team; 182 CALIFORNIA HISTORY go to Blue Cottage & stay over night. 28, take one of the stages, & it whirled us into Stockton in a hurry. At 4 p. m., take steamer American Eagle for the city." Great amounts of gold were taken from the Cali- fornia diggings, and it is estimated that in the years from 1848 to 1856 the enormous sum of $450,000,- 000 was produced. Owing to the small number of men working the mines, only $10,000,000 was brought from the mines in 1848. Four times that was produced in the following year. In 1853, the greatest year of all, more than $65,000,000 in gold was added to the wealth of the world. The California hills and mountains are marked by thousands of trails, some dim and overgrown by chappa- ral, others trodden daily by passing feet. These are lasting re- minders of the brave men of the days of gold who went deep into the then unknown hills, footsore and hungry, but always pressing on. When, in some high Sierra forest, we come upon one of these dim trails, the words of one of California's younger poets come to us: Hangtown — now Placerville — in the early 50's. The famous hang tree is at the left of the "Empire" build- ing. Studebaker began as a black- smith in the building at the ex- treme right. (From Daguerreotype) CALIFORNIA HISTORY 183 'Wonder who has passed here In the long ago, Laughing, weeping, sighing — I shall never know; Only know the hill trails As they are today — The makers of the hill trails Have long since passed away." 7-Harry Noyes Pratt, in "Hill Trails and Open Sky." 184 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER XXI DR. JOSIAH GREGG PROJECT — THE EXPLORATION OF HUMBOLDT BAY REGION, 1849. Topics — The Expedition of Dr. Josiah Gregg. The Great Difficulty of the Trip to the Ocean. The Native Indians. The Discovery of Trinity Bay, where Eureka is Now Located. The Bear Fight. The Death of Gregg. The Foundation of Eureka. The territory comprising Humboldt County was visited by the trapping party of Jedediah Smith in 1827, but earher than that the coast had been vis- ited by explorers. In February, 1543, Cabrillo sailed along the coast and discovered and named the Cape of Perils. In 1604 the Fragata, a vessel belonging to Vizcaino's fleet, found shelter near Cape Mendo- cino. In 1849 Humboldt Bay was discovered by a party travelling overland under the leadership of Dr. Josiah Gregg. It was winter when the party reached the bay to which they gave the name of Trinity. At the time of the discovery of Humboldt Bay the northern coast of California was a primeval wil- derness. Its only inhabitants were wild beasts and CALIFORNIA HISTORY 185 A glimpse of Humboldt Bay, 1922. Indians. In October, 1849, a party of explorers was organized at a mining camp, Rich Bar, which was located on the Trinity River. Rich Bar was not a prosperous mining center. Only about forty miners, practically destitute, lived there, and so desperate was their condition that when friendly Indians who had visited the sea told them that it was ''not more than eight suns distant, that there was a large and beautiful bay surrounded by fertile and extensive prairie lands", the men determined to go to the bay and perhaps build a town. Dr. Josiah Gregg was chosen as leader of the ex- pedition. Twenty-four of the forty men at camp determined to join the party and two Indian guides were secured. 186 CALIFORNIA HISTORY November 5, 1849, was the day chosen for the start. For days before that date the rain poured in torrents. The dawn of November 5 brought no change. So miserable was the weather that the In- dian guides and sixteen of the white men refused to take the trip. The party was reduced to eight undaunted men. They were: Dr. Josiah Gregg of Missouri, Thomas Seabring of Ihinois, David A. Buck of New York, J. B. Truesdell of Oregon, Charles C. Southard of Boston, Isaac Wilson of Missouri, L. K. Wood of Kentucky, and a man by the name of Van Duzen. They took with them a supply of flour, pork and beans, sufficient to feed them for eight days. One of the members of the trip later said: ''The marked and prominent features were constant and unmitigated toil, hardship, privation and suffering." The Coast Range, which the men had to cross, was a series of mountains running north and south along the coast, while the men had to travel directly westward. They passed through heavy rains and snow, up steep mountain sides, over summits and down deep canons and ravines. They crossed South Fork of Trinity River, which Buck discovered when he went on ahead at one time to see if the ocean were in sight. Opposite the South Fork of the Trin- ity River they came to an Indian village. The sav- ages were afraid of them and left their homes and sought hiding places in the thickets and rocks, from CALIFORNIA HISTORY 187 which they watched curiously to see what the strange visitors would do The men, whose food supply was getting very low, helped themselves to the dried sal- mon they found in camp. Towards evening the In- dians returned with their faces painted and with every evidence that they meant to fight. The white men, by showing their rifles and firing them, over- awed the red warriors, who thereafter treated the visitors with the greatest respect. The Indians di- rected them still westward to the ocean, warning them a2;ainst other of the Indian tribes should thev change their course. After two more dayr. of travel, provisions were exhausted. The mules could find some grass on the hills and fared better than the exhausted and hun- gry men. Passing through valleys and over prai- ries, they were able in another day to kill some deer and dry some of the meat for rations. So hard was travelling that sometimes the distance covered aver- aged but seven miles a day. From the high moun- tains the men came to thick forests which presented terrible difficulties. For ten days all they had on which to exist was some flesh from bears they had killed, and later some bitter acorns. ''As the party got on lower ground the timber became thicker and thicker. Nature had not then been disturbed in her solitudes, and so luxurious was the growth of the redwoods, so interwoven the dense undergrowth, so nearly impassable the frequent barriers of fallen trees, 188 CALIFORNIA HISTORY that the utmost exertions could not accomphsh more than two miles of travel through the forest in a day. There were no trails; immense quantities of fallen timber covered the ground in almost impassable con- fusion, in many instances the logs being piled one upon another in such a manner that the onlv means of passage was to cut a way through. To go around them was often as impossible as it would have been to go over them. Two men were therefore sent ahead with axes who, as occasion required, would chop into the logs and slab off enough to construct a sort of platform by means of which the pack ani- mals were driven up on the logs and forced to jump off on the opposite side." At last, when the men were hardly able to travel further and three of the horses had died, the men heard the sound of the surf in the distance. They finally came to the sea at the mouth of what is now known as Little River. They travelled north from there until they came to a lagoon they could not pass. They then directed their steps south, deter- mining to go to San Francisco along the coast. Trav- elling south they camped on a headland they called ''Gregg's Point" but which is now known by the name the Spanish gave it, Trinidad. While travelling south the men were in need of drinking water, and Buck and Wood went in oppo- site directions to search for it. Buck returned with some bitter water and explained that it came from CALIFORNIA HISTORY 189 a slough, and after some questioning it was revealed that Buck had dipped it from a bay of smooth wa- ter. This was on the night of December 20, 1849, and the next day, on returning to the place from whence the water had been taken, it was found that Buck had discovered the bay they were looking for. They called it Trinity Bay, but the name has since been changed to Humboldt. The next morning the party started northward, keeping so near the bay that they had to swim a part of the way. The second day they came to a beautiful plateau skirting the northeast end of the bay, and camped here. The town of Union, now called Areata, was later founded on that spot. The next day being Christmas, the men roasted an elk's head for a feast. On December 26 they followed an Indian trail through the wood, back of where Eureka is now situated, and stopped at the place where Bucksport was later located. It was named after Buck, the discoverer of the bay. During this trying journey of exploration the men had many quarrels. They were many times near starvation, and exhausted both physically and men- tally. One serious quarrel occurred on the bank of a river, and the river is still called Mad River In memory of the trouble. When it became necessary to decide upon a future course of action, the men disagreed so seriously that they divided into two parties. One determined to 190 CALIFORNIA HISTORY go south by way of the coast to San Francisco and the other decided to foUow the course of the Eel River. The river was named from the fact that they obtained eels from the Indians there, the nearly starving- men trading beads and small bits of iron for the eels the Indians had caught. Seabring, Buck, Wilson and Wood were those who continued their journey down the Eel River; Dr. Gregg, Van Duzen, Southard and Truesdell went south by way of the coast. The first named, or Eel River party, went through the most terrible sufferings they had yet experienced. The blinding snow soon hid all trails and landmarks, and blocked up in great heaps in their way. They were hemmed in by snow for five days, and had they not been fortunate enough to kill a small deer they would have starved. When the flesh was gone they had to boil the hide, drink the water in which it had been cooked and chew the skin. They saw many grizzly bears, and one day, seeing eight of them to- gether, determined to attack them. Wood almost los- ing his life. He shot and wounded a bear, which fell as though dead. As he began to reload his rifie, the bear rushed at him and hurt him badly. Be- fore he could recover from this onslaught, another bear rushed at him and bore him to the ground. When he lay quiet, the animals sat and watched him as a cat watches a mouse, but when he moved they again attacked him. At last the bears tired of CALIFORNIA HISTORY 191 the game and left. One bear was dead and Wood's hip was dislocated, his shoulders and body badly torn. The men made camp and cared for Wood, who grew rapidly worse. His illness delayed the other men and they became impatient after some ten days of nursing. At last they discussed among themselves the practicability of leaving W^ood to his doom. Guessing of what they were talking, Wood begged the men to either get an Indian chief from a nearby camp to care for him, or kill him, as he could not stay there and die knowing that death was approach- ing- without human aid or comfort. The three men asked the Indian chief to care for Wood. He agreed to do this if they would give him many beads and trinkets. The white men gave to the chief all their trinkets and all of their personal belongings they could afford to give away. These the chief took and then left camp without Wood. Determined that he should not be left to die. Wood persuaded the men to tie him to a horse and let him travel with them. In spite of the terrible pain and weakness that he suffered, Wood survived the trip until the party, after ten days of travel down the Russian River, turned southwards towards Sonoma. Here they came to a farm, and Mrs. West, the own- er, nursed Wood until he was able to join his friends in San Francisco. The men who attempted to go south to San Fran- cisco by way of the coast had so difficult a time that 192 CALIFORNIA HISTORY they abandoned their course and instead went by way of the Sacramento Valley. Their ammunition gave out and they went hungry for days. Dr. Gregg, the brave old man who had so faithfully piloted the party and was its leader at the start, fell from his horse one day, dead of starvation. His companions dug a hole with sticks and buried his body in a grave covered with stones so the wild animals could not molest it. A few days later, after the arrival of the Eel River party, they too arrived in Sonoma and went on to San Francisco. Because of their pitiable condition, the plans of the explorers for building a town on Humboldt Bay had to be abandoned. Associations were later formed for the purpose of exploration in the northern part of California, and in search of a route perhaps from the ocean up some river to reach the mining camps in the wilds of Trin- ity and Siskiyou. The Laura Virginia Association was one of those formed with the purpose of divert- ing the extensive trade from the inland route, which was expensive, and to discover a landing place from the sea. It was on one of these trips that the Klam- ath River was discovered. The ship Laura Virginia on April 14, 1850, sailed into Humboldt Bay. The harbor and a city these men founded were named in honor of Baron Von Hum- boldt, a distinguished Prussian naturalist. Hum- boldt City flourished while it was a trading center for the mines, but the advantage of a nearer route, and an Indian trail from the head of the bay being CALIFORNIA HISTORY 193 impractical without costly improvements, settled the rivalry that had arisen shortly after the springing into being of Eureka and Union (Areata). Hum- boldt City was short lived. Eureka was located the same month, April, 1850, that Humboldt City was founded. Trinidad, first called Warnerville, was lo- cated at Trinidad Harbor. Humboldt County was formed May 12, 1853, and in 1856 the county seat was fixed at Eureka by the legislature. As early as 1854 shipbuilding was be- gun there, and a steamer, the Glide, sailed between Areata and Eureka. 194 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 195 CHAPTER XXII WILLIAM LEWIS MANLY PROJECT — THE DISCOVERY OF DEATH VAL- LEY, 1850. Topics — Following Old Trails. The Desperate Condi- tion of the Manly Party. Through Death Valley. The Arrival at San Fernando Mission. Crossing the mountains and plains in the early days to California called for courage and a distinct heroism on the part of all who took the trip. Not only was there danger of Indian attacks, of wild animals, of getting lost, but the task of carrying enough food and water to sustain life on the jour- ney was no mean one. Crossing the great deserts of the west was the greatest trial of all. We hear stories of leaders of great courage, but one of the most interesting stories of a brave, self-sacrificing leader on one of these journeys is that of William Lewis Manly, the hero of Death Valley. Manly was born in Vermont in 1820. He was full of life and the desire for adventure. When still a very young man he left his home with seven dollars in his pocket and went on pioneering expe- ditions through Ohio, Michigan and Wisconsin. 196 CALIFORNIA HISTORY It was natural that the call of California should be felt strongly by a man of Manly's type. In 1848 and 1849 the lure of the gold rush to California could no longer be resisted, and Manly set out as a driver for Charles Dallas, a pioneer bound for the west. The old Oregon route was followed until the party came to the Green River. There the men found a small sand-filled ferry boat. This river suggested the thought that the trip might be completed by boat, for surely the river flowed to the Pacific Ocean. Manly, reasoning thus, with six other men, deter- mined to travel by water. They mended the boat and began their trip. The river grew more and more rough as the water rushed madly on to the Colorado. The canons were deep and narrow and dangerous, and finally the men had to desert the boat and make canoes. Meeting a friendly group of Indians, Manly was told by them that if he did not give up his trip by water it would lead to his death. The men fol- lowed the Indians' advice and went overland to Salt Lake. There they met the party of Asabel Bennett and joined his emigrant train, which consisted of one hundred and seven wagons and about five hun- dred horses. The party pursued their way to the south, hoping to reach Los Angeles. But what horrors this southern route, which was not well mapped out, meant to this party! They lost their way and decided to go directly west. Climb- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 197 ing the mountains, they looked out across a low valley which stretched at their feet for many miles. It was gray, desolate, without growth, without wa- ter. The hills and mountains beyond were sharp and weather worn and utterly without vegetation. This was Death Valley, later given this suggestive name because of those who perished there in 1850. The valley was more than one hundred feet below sea level. It was an appalling sight for the emigrants. Water and provisions were giving out. Children were crying for food and water. In order to live it was necessary to kill the oxen, one by one, and drink their blood and eat their flesh. So desperate did conditions become that it was de- cided that some of the party had better go ahead on the trail in search of food and a place to settle. The emigrants were to halt by a spring and there wait ten days for the return of the men. Manly and John Rogers, the two strongest and hardiest of the young men, were chosen to make the search. They left the Bennetts with their three children, the J. B. Arcanes and their son, two Erhart brothers and a son, Captain Culverwell and three others whose names we do not know. So terrible was this exploring trip the young men made, that had the dangers and trials and suffer- ing in store for them been known, it is doubtful if a human being could deliberately have left on such a journey; but the sufferings they left behind them 198 CALIFORNIA HISTORY were so sad, and so great was the need of the men, women and children that, casting all thoughts of themselves aside, these two men went forth into the desert with stout hearts. For days they pushed onward in an agony of thirst and hunger. The lack of food and water so exhausted them that it was only by superhuman effort they pushed on. Days of suffering brought their reward. The men crossed the valley and mountains and came to a beautiful valley with singing birds and running brooks. Their joy and relief were be3^ond expression. Here they met a Mr. French, who helped to supply them with provisions for their return trip. Some horses and a mule were secured to carry supplies, and they were ready to return to their friends. The ten days had more than passed. Perhaps the people were dead by now! Perhaps the Indians had killed them! Perhaps they had given up ex- pecting relief and had wandered on and it would be impossible to find them! These were the thoughts that presented themselves to the men as a tempta- tion not to take the hazardous return trip. Never- theless they bravely retraced their steps. The return trip with provisions, while perilous, was somewhat easier, as the men had food and wa- ter, but the trail was dangerous and the trip most difficult over the sandy wastes and steep mountains. Nearing the camp the relief party were filled with gloom upon finding the dead body of Captain Cul- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 199 200 CALIFORNIA HISTORY verwell. They knew not what to expect next. They fired their gun as an announcement of their arrival. What a reunion followed! All except Captain Cul- verwell were at the camp; and with refreshed bod- ies and minds, and strong in courage with Rogers and Manly to guide them, the emigrants once more started on their way. Again the oxen had to be killed for meat, but in nineteen days they came to the brook which had first gladdened Manly's heart, and from there they went on to the San Fernando Mission. They were now near their goal, Los Angeles. The entire trip from Wisconsin had taken a year and they were still six hundred miles from the gold fields. For four months the party had wandered at random, searching for the short cut to Los Angeles^ but now all danger was passed. Manly lived until 1901 to tell his story of Death Valley, and he has left us the tale in book form. He is a splendid type of the courageous pioneers who came to California in the early days. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 201 CHAPTER XXIII CALIFORNIA ADMITTED TO THE UNION PROJECT — CALIFORNIA'S ADMISSION TO THE UNION OF STATES, SEPTEMBER 9, 1850. Topics — The American Flag in California. The Mili- tary Surrender of CaUfornia. The Government of Cal- ifornia Under Military Rule. The First Legislature in California. The Adoption of the New Constitution. The Problem of Slavery. President Fillmore Signs the Bill. CALIFORNIA She was not born a babe to suckle strength; A woman, gazing down her land's broad length, Stepped from the pines out on the fall-brown grass. The grizzly bear stood back to let her pass, And Fremont's cannon thundered wide and far — Old Glory's azure had another star!— Madge Morris. In 1846 the American flag was raised at Sonoma, at Sutter's Fort and at the plaza in Yerba Buena, which was a settlement by the Golden Gate where San Francisco now is located. There was satisfaction expressed in many places in California upon the American occupation, for it promised protection to persons and property. 202 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Military forces of Californians in the south made headquarters in Los Angeles and made several at- tempts at resisting American occupation. These were frustrated when Fremont arrived in the south. Before having the opportunity of meeting the op- posing forces, an armistice was proclaimed and at the Rancho de Cahuenga on January 13, 1847, the Californians surrendered to Fremont and returned peaceably to their homes, agreeing to follow the laws and regulations of the United States. In 1848 our country won the war with Mexico. "The Republic of Mexico was now a conquered na- tion and might have been added to our domain; but the victors were content to retain Upper California and New Mexico — the region from the Rio Grande to the Pacific, and from the Gila River to Oregon. For this great territory we paid Mexico $15,000,000 and in addition paid some $3,500,000 of claims our citizens had against her for injury to their persons and property." The discovery of gold in 1848 began the big rush westward. Many emigrants came by sea, but the majority came overland, and at the end of 1849 it is estimated that some seventy-seven thousand peo- ple had come to California and that the white pop- ulation numbered one hundred thousand. Under the rule of the United States, Stephen W. Kearny was the first governor of California. Mon- terey was retained as the seat of government. Col- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 203 MONTeHEY i?a» SACRAMENTO, 183S tSM. SAN JOSE 1S48 t95t BENiCIA, tSS3 )8S4 SACRAMENTO. taSa !S«9 The State of California in the first few years of its existence had five capitals. The first was located at Monterey, 1849. It was at San Jose 1849 to 1851. At Vallejo 1851-52. At Sacramento 1852-53. At Be- nicia 1853-54. At Sacramento 1854 to present time. There have been several unsuccessful attempts to remove the seat of government from Sacramento. 204 CALIFORNIA HISTORY onel Richard B. Mason commenced his administra- tion as governor of Cahfornia on May 31, 1847. His position, Hke that of Kearny, was that of ''com- mander of the United States mihtary forces and civil governor of the territory in possession of the United States as a belHgerent." Following Mason, General Bennet Riley was given charge of civil affairs on April 13, 1849, by President Polk. But this government was not really satisfactory. The hordes of people who had rushed to California from almost every part of the world when gold was discovered, and the larger number of Americans, felt the need of law and order. The people desired to join the Union and California to be a part of the United States. Congress was very slow in settling the govern- ment of its new territory, for it was harassed with the ques- tion of slavery. Unable to en- dure existing conditions and wishing lawful protection of their property, the wish of the people was acceded to by Riley, who called a convention at Monterey for the purpose of The Seal of California drawinsf Up a Constitution. The was designed by Major . Robert Seiden Gamett, meeting opened in Colton Hall and was adopted in 1849 c 4- u -? io/in vu by the Constitutional On September 3, 1849, With M^erey." "^^''^ """' ^' delegates from different parts CALIFORNIA HISTORY 205 The first theatre building in CaH- fornia at Monterey of the state present. Laws for California were deter- mined upon; it was provided that slavery should not exist in the state and the boundaries were settled. The covention closed on Oc- tober 13. Thousands of copies of the constitu- tion were printed in both Spanish and Eng- lish and distributed throughout the state. The election was call- ed for November 13. Peter H. Burnett was chosen the first governor of Cali- fornia by vote of the people under the United States government. The first legislature under the consti- tution met at San Jose on December 15, when Bur- nett took the oath of office. After that there were the civil and criminal codes to study and the first legislature had a large amount of labor and a great responsibility to assume. Meanwhile serious debates were being held in Washington as to admitting California as a state. Slavery was the question of paramount importance, and as California was opposed to slavery the north was willing to admit her to the Union, while the south, approving of slavery, was against it. Such men as Daniel Webster, John C. Calhoun and Henry Clay made notable arguments for and against the admission of California to the Union. 206 CALIFORNIA HISTORY The California bill finally was sent to President Fillmore, and on September 9, 1850, he signed it. California was now a state, the thirty-first to enter the Union, and we annually celebrate Admission Day on September 9. The news of California's admission was brought to the state by way of the Golden Gate, when the Oregon sailed into port with the glad news. It spread rapidly and Governor Burnett himself rode to San Jose in a fast stage and announced the glad news to the populace. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 207 CHAPTER XXIV GOVERNORS UNDER AMERICAN RULE PROJECT — THE POLITICAL GROWTH OF CALI- FORNIA, 1846-1922. Topics — The Governor Under Military Rule. The First Governor of California. The Governor During the War Period. The Governor Under the New Constitution. The Progressive Period of Government Under Hiram Johnson. Current Political Events. The first military governor of California was John D. Sloat, who served from July 7 to July 29, 1846, when Robert F. Stockton became the governor and served until January 19, 1847; it was then John C. Fremont was named by Stockton as acting governor. He served for several months, until Stephen W. Kearny was given the appointment. On May 31, 1847, Richard B. Mason was appointed, serving un- til February 28, 1849, when Persifer F. Smith be- came governor. He served a little over a month, v/hen he was succeeded by Bennet Riley. He con- tinued in office until the constitution was adopted. These rapid changes in government were due to the fact that the war with Mexico made it necessary 208 CALIFORNIA HISTORY for the military governors to change locations fre- quently and to leave some one in their place to rep- resent the Washington government. Richard B. Mason was the only one of the military governors who served more than one year. After the adoption of the constitution, Peter H. Burnett became the governor of the state of Califor- nia on December 20, 1849. He was in every way worthy of the great honor; a man of integrity and of vigorous intellect. He resigned January 8, 1851, and was appointed supreme judge of the state by Governor J. Neely Johnson, January 13, 1857. The salary of our first governor was $10,000 a year. It was afterwards changed by various legis- latures until the constitution of 1879 fixed the sal- ary at $6,000. The next in line were John McDougall, John Big- ler, John Neely Johnson, John B. Weller, Milton S. Latham, John G. Downey, and then we come to our great war governor, Leland Stanford, who served from January 10, 1862, to December 10, 1863. Le- land Stanford was one of the great builders of the west and was honored by not only being elected gov- ernor, but afterwards served the state as U. S. Sen- ator. He was succeeded in office by Frederick F. Low, who was elected by the Union party, and during the serious crisis of the latter part of the Civil War was noted for his devotion to duty and for his fine qual- ities of citizenship. He also served his state in Con- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 209 gress, dying in San Francisco in 1894. He was suc- ceeded by Henry H. Haight, and the next in line was Newton Booth, the celebrated orator, who was afterwards elected United States Senator. Lieuten- ant Governor Romualdo Pacheco filled out his un- expired term and was succeeded by William Irwin. The new constitution of California was adopted in 1879. This constitution was brought about through the agitation of Dennis Kearney, whose oratory against the Chinese gave him the popular name of ''the sand-lot orator." The constitution was adopted and went into effect with the inauguration of George C. Perkins, January 8, 1880. The new constitution was in many respects a re- markable document. It had so many provisions that it was almost a code of laws rather than a consti- tution. It has been amended man)^ times, espeoially since the law was passed providing for amendments by initiative measures. Governor Perkins deserves special mention. He was one of California's most popular governors. Coming to California as a poor sailor boy, he located for a time at Oroville in the grocery business, and afterwards was one of the principal owners of the Pacific Coast Steamship Company. He was noted as a patron of art, literature and music, and was instrumental in giving both inspiration and stimula- tion to young California writers. He was elected United States Senator and served three terms. 210 CALIFORNIA HISTORY George Stoneman, Washington Bartlett, Robert Waterman, H. H. Markham, James H. Budd, Henry T. Gage, George C. Pardee, each served a term of four years successively, and then came James N. Gillett, who was the last governor under the party convention plan. During his administration public sentiment grew until there became an insistent de- mand for greater social service in administrative affairs. His administration was characterized by legislation providing for an $18,000,000 bond issue, inaugurating the good roads movement which has resulted in our mag- nificent highways, and other measures that have been of great ben- efit to the public. With the inaugura- tion of Hiram Johnson, who became the leader of the Progressives in 1910, the state of Cali- fornia adopted a series of constitutional amend- ments that have had a marked influence upon the destiny of the state. First in importance was the adoption of woman's Hiram W. Johnson suffrage. This was the CALIFORNIA HISTORY 211 culmination of the leadership of Clara ShortridgeFoltz, who had with eloquent voice and virile pen worked for more than twenty years that women might have an equal voice and equal opportunity with men in all public affairs. The creation of the Railroad Com- mission, with great constitutional powers, giving it the right to regulate all public utilities; the Indus- trial Accident Commission; the State Board of Con- trol; Highway Commission; the Water Commission; the Teachers' Pension Law; Civil Service Commis- sion, and other legislation affecting the social wel- fare of the people. Governor Johnson was re-elected, and during his second term the people elected him U. S. Senator. In 1920 he was one of the outstanding candidates for the Republican nomination for the presidency of the United States. Senator Johnson was born in Sacramento in 1866. His fighting personality and aggressive and progressive policies appeal strongly to the people. His father is the Hon. Grove L. John- son, who represented his district in Congress and who served in the legislature of the state for many terms. Succeeding Johnson as Governor was William D. Stephens, former Congressman from California. The present junior Senator from California is Samuel M. Shortridge, who is a true type of the possibilities of American citizenship. Born in 1861, a graduate of the San Jose high school, a teacher in the public schools, a day laborer in the mines, a 212 CALIFORNIA HISTORY lawyer and orator, and finally attaining by the vote of the people the United States senatorship. At the age of twenty-five he announced his ambi- tion to represent the state of California in the Con- gress of the United States. He per- sistently held to this ambition, gave of his service freely to the people, and on November 6, 1920, he was elected to his present oftice. Senator Short- ridge's career from boyhood to the full realization of his ambition and high ideal should have a strong ap- peal to the boys and girls of the younger generation. V^.^ Samuel M. Shortridge Present Capitol Building, Sacramento. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 213 CHAPTER XXV EDUCATION PROJECT — THE PUBLIC SCHOOL SYSTEM, 1850 TO 1922. Topics — The First Public School. John Swett. Con- structive Education. Education Under the New Con- stitution. Educational Developments Under Edward Hyatt. The University of CaHfornia. The Stanford University. The Constructive Period of Education Un- der the Leadership of Will C. Wood. The public and private schools of California have been a potent factor in its historical development. The foundation for the educational structure began with the teaching of vocational and other subjects to the natives by the Franciscan fathers. Whenever the Americans later made a settlement they also pro- vided for churches and school houses, so as early as April 8, 1850, John C. Pelton secured the adoption of an ordinance, by the Common Council of San Francisco, making his private school the first public school. In September, 1851, the city of San Fran- cisco was provided with a city board of education and a city school superintendent. The constitution 214 CALIFORNIA HISTORY of the state adopted at the convention held in Sep- tember, 1849, provided for a state superintendent of pubHc instruction; for a system of common schools requiring that in each school district a public school should be maintained for at least three months each year. The constitution also provided that the lands granted by act of Congress for the support of schools and the 500,000 acres granted to the new state for the purpose of internal improvements should be ap- propriated for the use of the common schools and under no condition should ever be diverted. Our public school system grew gradually until John Swett became state superintendent of public instruction. In his campaign he took the question of education directly to the people and he appealed for a better financial support of the schools and for a state-wide system. He was elected, and during his term of office placed upon the statute books of California those laws which have made the state of California famous for its educational system. In 1865 and 1866 he secured the adoption of a state school tax of half a mill on the dollar and also an increase of county and district tax. He succeeded in securing these laws by presenting a series of al- most endless petitions. It was the entering wedge that has led to the liberal support of the public school John Swett, the pioneer educational leader. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 215 system. In 1864 and 1865 the state school tax yield- ed $55,000; in 1921 it yielded $7,160,703.42 for elementary schools, and for secondary schools $1,- 081,467.53. For the current biennium 1921-22 the amount appropriated is $46,189,666. The work of John Swett will always remain a rich heritage to the citizenship of California. The first normal school was established in San Francisco and afterwards moved to San Jose. The second, in Los Angeles, and others in succession were established until there are institutions for the training of teachers at San Jose, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chico, San Diego, Santa Barbara, Fresno and Areata. In the legislature of 1921 these insti- tutions were changed to teachers' colleges, offering greater educational opportunities to students. The adoption of the new constitution in 1879 cre- ated many educational changes. Hon. Fred M. Camp- bell of Oakland was elected superintendent of public instruction, and served during the period when there was much constructive legislation, and to his vis- ion and ability the public school system is greatly indebted. In 1906 Edward Hyatt was elected superintendent of public instruction, and during his twelve years of public service the standard of certification of teach- ers was raised. The county free library system was started under the direction of the state librarian, J. L. Gillis, and May Dexter Henshall, and the influence of 216 CALIFORNIA HISTORY the state library in educational affairs, which had been practically dormant from the time Fremont presented a hundred books in 1850 to the legislature as a begin- ning of the state library until Mr. Gillis emphasized ''service" as the chief purpose of any library. There were many new high schools organized and an act providing for free high school textbooks. There were also educational changes, including the re- organization of the state board of education. There was adopted a constitutional amendment providing for a state board of education consisting of seven lay members and a commissioner of secondary schools; and one from elementary schools ; and also provid- The new building of the California State Library, Sacramento, California, the center of California's great library service. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 217 218 CALIFORNIA HISTORY ing for state supervision along the lines of vocational education, home economics and other subjects. Mr. Hyatt during his twelve years' service made a dis- tinct impression on the public school system by his strong individuality. He loved the out-of-doors and his ''little talks" before children's and teachers' gath- erings were like a breath of fresh air in the routine of school work. In January, 1918, Will C. Wood, who had been the commissioner of secondary education, was inau- gurated as superintendent of public instruction. The name of Will C. Wood will be linked with that of John Swett as an outstanding educational leader. Wood is a constructive leader. Amendment 16,* the King Bill, the Junior College, the Junior High School, the State Teachers' College, are representa- tive of his legislative program. He has, by simple and direct methods, sold education direct to the peo- ple as an essential need of the commonwealth. The California constitution of 1849 provided for the establishment of a university. It was not, how- ever, until 1869 that the University of California was established. During the first twenty years of statehood the Methodists established the College of the Pacific at San Jose, the Catholics the Santa Clara College at Santa Clara, and the Presbyterians and * Amendment 16 is a constitutional amendment by an initiative petition that was placed upon the ballot in 1920. The amendment provid-es adequate salaries for rural teachers. It is an epoch- making law for the public schools of the State. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 219 Congregationalists the Contra Costa Academy and the College of California on April 13, 1855, in Oak- land. In 1869 the state of California acquired the holdings of the College of California, and it became a state institution governed by a board of regents. In 1873 the University was moved to Berkeley. The institution during 1869-70 had forty students and a faculty of ten. In 1879 and 1880 the attend- ance reached 528, and in 1892 to 1018. Then the establishment of high schools and the close co-ordination of the department of education of the University with the public schools and the accredited system led to a remarkable growth in attendance, until it has become one of Benjamin ide the greatest universities in the coun- Wheeier. ^j.^^ There were 10,796 students regis- tered in the University in 1920-21, with a faculty of 594 members. The total attendance, including the Affiliated Colleges and the Summer Session, brought the attendance up to 18,830. The University Ex- tension Division taught 15,479 by ._ class instruction, 4,033 by correspond- ence, 190,000 by lectures, and 452,000 by visual instruction. The total money spent from the period of 1869 to 1872 was $283, 720.33. The funds provid- ed for the maintenance of the Uni- versity in 1921 were $8,334,073. Of Joseph Le Conte 220 CALIFORNIA HISTORY the latter amount $1,000,000 was for the support of the University of CaHfornia Southern Branch at Los Angeles. The University has had such famous men in its faculty as E. R. Sill, Joseph Le Conte, Dean D. Gil- man, Dr. Howison, Bernard Moses, Henry Morse Stephens and Benjamin Ide Wheeler.''' David P. Barrows, who became its president in 1919, is noted for his scholarship and his organizing ® ability. He is a product of the public school, a post-graduate of the Uni- versity, a student of economic and political affairs. Stanford University, located at Palo Alto, was endowed by Leland Stan- David Star ^^^^ ^^ ^ memorial to his son Leland Jordan. Stanford, Jr. The endowment amounts to over $20,000,000. Dr. David Starr Jordan, noted as an author and a scientist, was the founder of the educational standards and its president from 1890 to 1910. He brought to the University the ablest and brightest minds in the country. He was suc- ceeded by President Branner, who in turn was suc- * Presidents of the University: John Le Conte, acting president, 1869-70; Henry Durant, 1870-72; Daniel C. Oilman, 1872-75; John Le Cont-e, acting president, 1875-76; John Le Conte, 1876-81; W. T. Reid, 1881-85; Martin Kellogg, chairman academic council, 1885; Edward S. Holden, 1885-88; John Le Conte, acting presi- dent, 1888; Horace Davis, 1888-90; Martin Kellogg, 1890-93; Mar- tin Kellogg, 1893-99; Benjamin Ide Wheeler, 1899-1919; David P. Barrows, 1919. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 221 222 CALIFORNIA HISTORY ceeded by Dr. Ray Wilbur, a graduate of the in- stitution. The main buildings with their mission architecture present a pleasing and harmonious group and keep alive the historic Spanish background. The church with its wonderful mosaics appeals to the thousands of tourists who visit the University. Indeed, the university which Stanford endowed gave to the world a number of men and women of national importance, and among them was Herbert Hoover, a man who was able, because of the education which he received there, to not only save a nation from starvation dur- ing the late war, but who was also able to return to his own country and direct the attention of the people to the matter of conservation and of supply- ing our Allies and their dependent wives and the children of the soldiers who were fighting for de- mocracy, with food and clothing. The University of Santa Clara, located on the site of the old mission, forty-eight miles south of San Francisco, is one of the well known educational in- stitutions of the state and numbers among its grad- uates some of our most noted citizens. It was, found- ed in 1851. Among the other noted institutions are the Uni- versity of Southern California, Occidental College, Pomona College, Pacific College, Mills College, Poly- technic School, besides many parochial, Protestant and non-sectarian. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 223 CHAPTER XXVI LITERATURE OF CALIFORNIA PROJECT— THE STUDY OF CALIFORNIA IN LIT- ERATURE, ART AND MUSIC, 1852-1922. Topics — Mark Twain, the Humorist. Bret Harte, the Editor of the Overland, Poet and Short Story Writer. Joaquin Miller, the Poet of the Sierras. Ina Coolbrith, Poet Laureate. Charles Warren Stoddard, Ambrose Bierce, Madge Morris Wagner, George Wharton James, William Keith, and others. California has a wonderful literary heritage, and from her historical background stand forth many ^...^ writers of national and world-wide Sfame. Among her younger writers are many, already well known within ; her borders, destined to attain wide recognition. There is inspiration in the beauty of California's mountains ; in the color of her valleys and the Mark Twain. ever changing loveliness of her thou- sand miles of shore. California's literary historian, Ella Sterling Mighels, says in her ''Literary California" that a Califor- 224 CALIFORNIA HISTORY nia writer is one who is born here or one who is re-born here, and much of the reaUy virile Hter- ature of the nation has come from the pens of those who have been, for a longer or a shorter period, identified with California. The first literary productions which may justly be claimed for California are of course those writ- ings of the padres which tell, as does Father Palou's life of Serra, of the struggles and triumphs of these brave missionaries. These are preserved to us in the original records in several of the old missions. There was, however, little of real note prior to the American occupation of California. Perhaps the earliest literary production from American hands was "The Calif ornian," first issued at Monterey on Au- gust 15, 1846. Walter Colton, then alcalde of Mon- terey, was the owner, editor and printer of this early weekly, and largely responsible for its contents, al- though Robert Semple was a some-time partner in the business. Colton was also the author of several books which contain many interesting incidents of those stirring days. The first journal of real literary value was the ''Golden Era," which commenced publication 'in San Francisco in 1852, and in its columns appeared many of the earlier writers. Newspapers which had strong influence upon the events of the early days sprung up in many of the mining camps. Some of these communities have long since disappeared, and with CALIFORNIA HISTORY 225 them the newspapers which carried the chronicles of their doings. Other newspapers, estabhshed in the days of the early pioneers, such as the Sacra- mento ''Union," the ''Bulletin," the ''Call," and the "Chronicle," of San Francisco, are still in existence. In the columns of these papers, and in others such as the "Herald" of San Diego, and the "Enterprise" of Virginia City, appeared poems, sketches and oc- casional stories well worthy of preservation. Many of these were unsigned, and we can only wonder to what unknown literary genius they owed their being. Among the books published in the early days by California writers were many notable for their lit- erary style and the fine quality of their subject mat- ter, and it is to these early chronicles that we owe much of our knowledge of the events of the times. First among California writers are placed the three who attained world-wide fame, Samuel L. Clemens, better known as Mark Twain; Bret Harte, and our "Poet of the Sierras," Joaquin Miller. The first two of these were identified with California for a short time only, but it was here that they first had recog- nition and it was here that they had their inspiration for the stories which gained for them wider fame. Mark Twain, most famous of the three, was born in Florida, Missouri, in 1835, dying in Hartford, Connecticut, in 1910. His experiences in the early mining camps he has told in one of his books, "Rough- ing It." He was not a miner, but worked as reporter 226 CALIFORNIA HISTORY and editor on various newspapers of the camps, as well as in San Francisco. It was for one of the San Francisco papers, the "Alta California," that he made the trip on the steamer Quaker City to the Mediter- ranean and the Holy Land in 1867. His w^eekly let- ters, setting forth his experiences on this trip, were printed in the Alta every Sunday, and served as the foundation for his first famous book, "The Innocents Abroad." Charles Henry Webb, another of Cali- fornia's early writers, had in that same year pub- lished Mark Twain's first book, ''The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras." Identified with this same period of California's literary history, and also with much the same terri- tory in the state, was Francis Bret Harte. He w^as born in Albany, New York, February 25, 1836, and died in England on May 5, 1902, the first of California's famous trio to pass. He came of English- lewish ancestrv. His father was a highly educated man, an instructor in FrandTBret Greek, and Bret Harte received splen- Harte. ^^^ educational training. Coming to California in 1854, he spent some time in the growing- city of San Francisco. He was for a time in 1856 a tutor in the San Ramon Yalley, later going to the region of the "Southern Mines," in Tuolumne and Calaveras Counties. At Tuttletown, in Calaveras County, he taught school for a time in 1856 and CALIFORNIA HISTORY 227 1857, and it was in this section that he laid the scenes of so many of his later stories. After serving for a time as editor of a paper in Humboldt Comity, Bret Harte returned to San Fran- cisco and in 1860 began the writing of poems and stories for the "Golden Era." He joined in 1864 the staff of the ''Alta California," and two years later was dramatic editor of the "Morning Call." In July of 1868, the Overland Monthly, a magazine which is still published, was started by the firm of A. Roman & Co., and to Harte was given the editorship. His stories of the mining camps, "Tennessee's Partner," "M'liss," "The Outcasts of Poker Flat," "The Luck of Roaring Camp," and others, brought fame to Bret Harte and wide literary recognition to the Overland Monthly. A few years later, in 1871, Harte left San Fran- cisco for the east, and about 1880 went on to Eng- land, where he made his permanent home. His sto- ries and poems brought added fame to California, but they do not truly portray the life of the mining camps of the day, and it is to other writers we must go for the history of the Argonauts. His poem "Concepcion de Arguello" is, however, based on his- toric fact, and is included among the most beau- tiful of his poetic works. Other poems of beauty and value are "Dickens in Camp" and "The Angelus." Best loved of the three, in California at least, is our own Cincinnatus Heine Miller, more widely 228 CALIFORNIA HISTORY known as "Jo^^^'^ii^" Miller, the poet who has car- ried the beauty and the spirit of the Golden Gate to every country the world over. Born in Indiana in 1841 and dying February 7, 1913, Joaquin Miller was closely identified with California during most of his life. He took part in some of the stirring in- cidents of her early history as a state. Much of the poetry and prose which he considered worthy of preservation was produced in California. His home was California, and few men have so greatly loved her. Joaquin's autobiog'raphy tells of his Joaquin MiUer. t i i • t r .\, boyhood m Indiana and the experi- ences of the pioneer family in the woods of what was then a wilderness. He tells of the family's emigration to Oregon, where his father settled and where Joaquin for a time lived. Boys quickly became men in those days, and when he was only fifteen he left home for the life of the mining camps in the region of Mt. Shasta. Here he had many thrilling experiences with the rough men of the camps and with the Indians. He took an active part in one of the campaigns against the Indians, and at the famous battle of Castle Crags was severely wounded, his neck being pierced by an arrow. Recovering from the wound, he returned to Ore- gon. At Canon City he ran a newspaper, was one of the riders of the Pony Express, and was also a CALIFORNIA HISTORY 229 judge of the local court. It was his desire to be a judge of the Supreme Court of Oregon, but family troubles — he had in the meantime married — caused him to give up all connection with Oregon. He took ship from Portland and arrived in San Francisco dur- ing the period when Bret Harte, Charles Warren Stoddard, Ina Coolbrith and other writers of the time were establishing California's place in literature. Unlike the other writers, Joaquin was unable to gain wide recognition here. His poetry did not con- form to established standards and, stung by the rid- icule of those who could not see its beauty, Joaquin in 1871 left for London. After much difficulty in finding a publisher, he issued in London his "Songs of the Sierras.'' England gave him immediate rec- ognition and his place as a world poet was assured. Other books followed: ''Songs of Italy," "Isles of the Amazon," and others. Returning to America in 1879 with English hon- ors and possessed of moderate fortune, he met Ab- bie Leland and married for the second time. Spec- ulation in Wall Street dissipated his fortune. In the endeavor to regain wealth, Joaquin wrote the plays, 'The Danites," " '49," and "Tally-Ho," which were well received. During Cleveland's first administra- tion, Joaquin lived in Washington, and the log cabin which he built for his residence there is still pre- served in Arlington Park as a memorial to Cali- fornia's poet. 230 CALIFORNIA HISTORY This stone funeral pyre was built by Joaquin Miller and ac- cording to his request his ashes were scattered to the winds from this point. It is on the Rights over- looking the Golden Gate. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 231 Urged by his California friends to return to the Pacific. Coast, he came back to San Francisco in 1884 and shortly thereafter purchased the tract high up in the Oakland hills, to which he gave the name of "The Rights." He planted here a forest of cy- press and eucalyptus, built here the quaint home in which he lived and wrote. He built here, too, a house for his aged mother where from her rose-cov- ered porch she could see the growing city of Oak- land beneath the hills; with the blue bay beyond which rose the streets of San Francisco. He made here a gathering place for the younger writers, to whom he was an inspiration and a help. The little cottages among the trees were free for their use as long as they chose to remain. Yoni Noguchi, the Japanese poet, and many others who later attained recognition are debtors to his advice. Always active and a man of the out-of-doors, Joa- quin in 1897 and 1898, when nearly sixty years of age, endured the hardships of a trip to the Klondike. While here he tramped over four hundred miles along the edge of the Arctic on a relief expedition to a whaling fleet frozen in the ice of the northern sea. Two years later he visited the Orient, penetrating to the heart of China. Frequent lecture tours took him from The Hights, but in spite of his continual activities along other lines he found time to write much poetry which will live. Age did not mean with Joaquin Miller a failing 232 CALIFORNIA HISTORY of power. Much of his best poetic work was done during the last ten years of his Hfe. ''The Passing of Tennyson," ''Missouri," "Songs of Creation," "Love to You and Yours" — all are poems of strength and beauty. This period, too, produced his auto- biography, a prose epic which should be in the hands of every child. His often expressed desire that, when death came, it should strike him down so that he would fall to earth as falls the giant sequoia he loved so well, was not to be gratified. His last illness, high up in the hills which heard the naming of the Golden Gate, was a lingering one; and here came to him, after their many years in New York, the poet's wife and daughter Juanita to be with him for the little time before he died. The Hights is now one of Oakland's parks, and here are preserved the memories of Joaquin Miller in his forest, his trails and the monuments his hands erected upon the round hills. It is a worthy mem- orial to the most picturesque figure in the life of literary California. Included in the literary circle which held Bret Harte, Joaquin Miller, Charles Warren Stoddard, Ambrose Bierce, and other literary lights of the day, was Ina Donna Coolbrith. Miss Coolbrith is one of California's pioneers, coming to the western coast by way of Beckwith Pass with an emigrant train of the early 'SO's. Her verse appeared frequently in CALIFORNIA HISTORY 233 the columns of the old Overland Monthly during Bret Harte's editorship, and in other contemporary publications. Miss Coolbrith, poet laureate of Cali- fornia by act of our legislature, has in her own ex- perience seen more of the literary history of the state than any living writer. Her famous poem, ''When the Grass Shall Cover Me," will live and endure. Like Joaquin Miller and Edwin Markham, her work is growing in power with the years. From Oregon came to California another poet whose verse has gained for him international recog- nition, Edwin Markham, the author of 'The Man With the Hoe." Born in Oregon City on April 23, 1852, Markham early came to California and lived for a time in the hills of Solano County. In a re- cent letter to a poet friend he says :"...! spent all my later boyhood among the hills of Solano. Among them is Laguna Valley, where my plain little home nestled at the foot of the green hills. I call these the Suisun Hills in a poem that appears in "The Shoes of Happiness." Markham later lived in San Jose, where the house, under direction of Henry Meade Bland and the admirers of the poet, is preserved as a permanent memorial in his honor. It was while he was principal of one of Oakland's schools that his poem, "The Man With the Hoe," written long before, suddenly brought him his deserved fame and recognition. Now living in New York, California still claims him as her own. Besides several vol- 234 CALIFORNIA HISTORY umes of poetry, he is the author of a prose volume, ''Cahfornia the Wonderful." Among other poets whose work has carried Cali- fornia's fame abroad is Madge Morris Wagner, whose work has its own individuality and charm. A resident of California since childhood, she too has seen much of the growth of the state's literary treas- ure. Her early work was on the San Jose ''Mer- cury," the ''Golden Era," the "Argonaut," and other publications. She has published several volumes of verse and two of prose. Among her best known poems are, "Liberty Bell," "Colorado Desert," and "Lure of the Desert." Her "Liberty BeU" furnished the inspiration for the making of the new "Colum- bian Liberty Bell" of the Chicago world's fair in 1893. Wm. O. McDowell, of Newark, N. J., saw a copy of the poem tacked up in Independence Hall, Philadelphia, beside the historic old bell of world- wide fame. Through his efforts, backed by the en- deavors of the Daughters of the Revolution and gov- ernors of the states, 250,000 relics and gifts were gathered and moulded into the new national bell. Chicago set apart July 4th, 1893, as Liberty Bell day, with Madge Morris Wagner and Wm. McDow- ell as guests, and gave them the freedom of the city. The list of California poets and prose writers might be extended almost indefinitely, especially if the list were to include contemporary writers, of whom there is an ever-growing number. Among CALIFORNIA HISTORY 235 the older writers are George Wharton James, who has written many excellent books pertaining to Cali- fornia, among them 'The Colorado Desert," ''Cali- fornia, the Wonderful," "Heroes of California," "In and Out of the Old Missions," "Indian Basketry," "Scraggles," "The Lake of the Sky," etc., etc.; Robert Louis Stevenson; Josiah Royce; Ambrose Bierce; E. Robeson Taylor; Gertrude Atherton; Mary Austin; Frank Norris; Jack London; John Muir; Henry George; Hubert Howe Bancroft; Charles F. Lummis. It is a notable list, and these are only a few of the names which might be added. Ella Sterling Mighels, who was born near Folsom, California, and cradled in a Gold Rocker by the miners, holds a unique place in California literature, as an author, compiler and literary historian. She has resided in London, New York and San Francisco. "The Story of the Files," "Literary California," "The Mountain Princess," and "The Full Glory of Dian- tha" are her most important works. The legislature in 1919 conferred upon her the title of "First Liter- ary Historian of California." Only a few of the contemporary writers may be named aside from those already mentioned. George John Muir, the discoverer of Pa- cific Coast glac- iers, and the most noted descriptive prose writer of CaUfornia's nat- ural scenery, es- pecially of the mountains. Sterling IS the strongest figure California 236 CALIFORNIA HISTORY poets of today. Fred Emerson Brooks, widely known as a poet-humorist and lecturer, is among the older writers but still contributing. Herbert Bashford, poet and playwright, whose book ''At the Shrine of Song" contains poems that for imagery and delineation of beauty are seldom surpassed. Charles Keeler is known as a writer of poetry for children. Harry Noyes Pratt is gaining recognition as a writer of lyrics. Grace Atherton Dennen, D. N. Lehmer, Henry Meade Bland, Ernest McGaffey, Neeta Marquis, Ben Field — the list of poets is long. And even longer is the list of prose writers. Kath- leen Norris, John McGroarty, Peter Kyne, Will Irwin — again it is a notable list, with constantly added names. California's romantic history is a rich source of material. Inspiration for the writer is in the very air. Nor is this inspiration given alone to the writer. Every art finds here a source of new life. Many of the greatest actors have had their early training in the theatres of San Francisco. Much of the finest in the art of painting has been produced here. Wil- liam Keith is identified with California, as is Thad Welch, Tom Hill, John Henry Breuer, Jules Taver- nier, T. Rosenthal, and many others. Music finds here its inspiration, and songs known the world over had their birth in California, for Carrie Jacobs Bond and other writers of songs and song lyrics make their home here. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 237 Adolph Sutro, the founder of Sutro Heights, a great tree planter and the builder of Sutro Tunnel, deserves mention here on account of his interest in art, literature and music. Hon. James D. Phelan, a native son, mayor of San Francisco and U. S. Senator 1915 to 1921, has de- voted much of his fortune and time to the develop- ment of art, literature and music in California. He is the outstanding figure in the cultural value of the new west, not academic but inspirational. On the California coast, in the shadow of Carmel Mission, where sleeps the good Padre Serra, is a col- ony of artists and writers which has world fame and which in its turn is carrying the beauty of California to the world. And four hundred miles piSran, {hT^mo^t south, not far from the old Mission of outstanding figure s^n Tuan Capistrano, and overlook- in the cultural . *^ ^ ' values of the ing the anchorage of Dana's ship in 'Two Years Before the Mast," is a similar colony, Laguna Beach. California literature has no boundary lines. The color, the atmosphere, the original angle may be the result of our mountains, our valleys, our sea, and the freedom that comes from the out of doors. The ap- peal of our writers, however, is to the heart and the intellect, and therefore our standards as illustrated by Bret Harte's ''Dickens in Camp,'' and Joaquin Mil- 238 CALIFORNIA HISTORY ler's "The Passing of Tennyson" are universal. Cali- fornia, on account of the climate, the history, the ro- mance, the freedom of the hills, the vastness of our deserts, the glory of the sundown seas, will always be an inspiration for creative literature. Glimpses of the Palace of Fine Arts. The building retained for a permanent art home; erected for the Exposition of 1915. Photos by Arthur F. Moore CALIFORNIA HISTORY 239 CHAPTER XXVII INDUSTRIAL WEALTH PROJECT — CALIFORNIA'S CONTRIBUTION TO THE COMMON WEALTH. Topics — Climate and Soil. Gold vs. the Orange and the Vine Fruit Industry, Cotton, Petroleum, Rice ; Men and Women in Times of War. Across the San Joaquin's broad reach of vines and waving wheat The old Sierras toss their gold at fair Los Angeles' feet. Soft sighs of pine and orange groves woo sea winds from the West And over all a spirit broods of romance and unrest. — Carrie Stevens Walter. We think of California as the land of gold, yet as compared to other products of the state this plays each year a smaller part. California's vineyards alone produced in 1920 a crop which exceeded by more than $10,000,000 the value of the gold produced in the banner year of 1852; and the mines that year of greatest production brought forth $81,294,700. The orange is in value as in color now the truly gol- den product of the state, for in 1921 California re- ceived for her oranges $61,257,344, with a mine pro- duction of gold amounting to only $15,704,822. In the seventy-two years from 1848 to 1920, Califor- 240 CALIFORNIA HISTORY nia's mines produced gold to the amount of $1,720,- 218,101; an eight year period of average crops brings to the state more money than this. With her variety of cHmate and soil, California can and does grow almost every crop of the temper- ate and semi-tropical regions. Her cereal crops alone are enormous, and in one, barley, she has held first place in production since 1852. For many years Cal- ifornia held place as one of the great wheat grow- ing states, the yield in the year of greatest produc- tion, 1896, being over 54,000,000 bushels. With the increase in area of irrigated lands, cereal production decreases, for the land is then too valuable for grain growing, so in 1921 only 557,000 acres were planted to wheat, where in 1896 almost 4,000,000 acres were given to the crop. Wheat commenced its decline as California's great crop with the development of the fruit industry. When scientific methods of shipping made it possi- ble to place our fruits in eastern markets in good condition, the planting of trees and vines increased tremendously throughout the state. To A. T. Hatch, a pioneer in the industry, California owes much, for he studied and experimented, particularly in connec- tion with almonds, until he had originated new va- rieties. The almonds of California, valued in 1920 at almost $2,000,000, are largely grown from trees of Hatch's varieties, originated near Suisun. To Luther Burbank, the wizard of Santa Rosa, Califor- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 241 nia owes an enormous debt, for it is largely through his work that many kinds of fruit have been brought to perfection, sufficiently hardy to stand the long trip to eastern markets and arrive in good condition. So each year has seen better fruit, better shipping conditions, and greater acreage planted. California's greatest crop, the grape, had its inception in the vines planted by the Franciscan fathers, some of which are still bearing at San Gabriel and Santa Barbara. By 1858 there were 6,500 acres planted to vines; twenty years more increased the acreage to 30,000 acres, while the year 1921 showed a total of almost 300,000 acres planted to raisin, table and wine grapes. In citrus fruits, peaches, pears, prunes, walnuts and almonds, California leads all the other states. She is also the leading vegetable producing state, ranking first in shipments of asparagus, celery, can- taloupes, lettuce, onions and spinach. The value in 1921 of the potato crop of the state, the most impor- tant vegetable, was over $13,000,000. Only one state, Louisiana, leads California in the production of rice, and we have been growing rice commer- cially for only ten years. In 1921 there were 120,- 000 acres, principally in Butte County, given to this crop and producing 5,880,000 bushels valued at $6,- 762,000. Cotton is another crop of recent introduction, yet in 1920 there were 275,000 acres, principally in Im- perial, Riverside, Kern, Madera and Merced Coun- 242 CALIFORNIA HISTORY ties, growing cotton to the amount of 35,280,000 pounds, valued at $6,350,000. The value of Califor- nia's total cotton crop of 1910 was only $11,744. The state is holding each year a place of greater importance as a source of manufactured products. With her great stores of raw materials, her vast amount of unutilized power and her proximity to the markets of the Orient, California's manufac- tured products will some time hold place with the product of her orchards and vineyards. The petroleum from the wells of the state plays a large part in the development of the commonwealth, for it is a great source of power. Wells have been sunk in almost every part of the state in search for the crude oil, but the production so far is confined almost entirely to the southern counties. New wells are being brought in and the production for 1921 was 114,849,924 barrels, an increase over the pre- ceding year of 9,000,000 barrels. From the ocean waters and from the rivers of the state are taken immense quantities of fish of vari- ous kinds, the greater portion of which is canned and shipped to all parts of the world. In 1921 there were taken from California waters 118,517,992 pounds of sardines alone. Almost $8,000,000 was the value of the salmon pack of 1920, while tuna to the value of $5,000,000 is sent to the world's markets, and these represent only three varieties of fish from the many used. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 243 In 1921 the valuation of California's fruit crop was $181,488,000; her field crops $162,202,000; while her mineral production — including petroleum, natural gas, brick, cement, salt, borax, etc. — was $244,856,910. Luther Burbank has contributed to the wealth of the world by his wonderful creations in fruit, flowers and various forms of plant life. He is located at Santa Rosa, and his gardens are visited by thou- sands of people each year. California has honored him by making his birthday, March 7, a legal holiday in the schools. There is another source of revenue that belongs to the common wealth to which California has contrib- uted generously. In 1861-65 California furnished men, women and money to the Union cause. Her loy- alty, patriotism and splendid service are deserving of highest praise. Governor Stanford and later Gov- ernor Low were strong leaders in upholding the ad- ministration of Abraham Lincoln. ©Thomas Starr King, pastor of the First Unitarian church of San Fran- cisco 1860 to 1864. In four years he gave a tremendous uplift to California intellectual development. He toured the State delivering lectures in behalf of the Union, and when secession was Thomas Starr no longer a menace he devoted him- King, whose elo- . ^ ^ . . r ^u t t c quence helped Self to raismg money tor the U. b. for^hf Union"^^ Sanitary Commission, or Red Cross 244 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Work. California contributed one million five hun- dred thousand, or one-third of the total amount raised for such work during the war. He died March 4, 1864, before reaching his fortieth year. In 1898-1900 California enlisted thousands of young men for the Spanish-American war. In view of the fact that soldiers and supplies were shipped to the Philippines via San Francisco, the State was the cen- ter of considerable war activity. Many of the young soldiers remained in the Philippines, and gave splen- did service in educational, governmental and commer- cial lines. In war against Germany and her allies, California again contributed in money, in men and women, and in food. No State in the Union responded more quickly or more completely than California to every call, whether for men, money or food. Camp Fre- mont at Menlo Park and Camp Kearny at San Diego became noted as centers of war activities. Our shipbuilding plants, our great food producing industries, our railroads, steamships and our mines were all placed at the government's disposal. The sol- diers who went across and fought at Argonne and elsewhere proved California soldiers had a loyalty and duty ''under fire" that stood the supreme test. The women in the Salvation Army, Red Cross serv- ice, at home and in army educational activities were imbued with the call to service. California's contribu- tion to the common wealth in gold, in grain, in fruit. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 245 in oil, in education, in literature, in men and women is a rich, heritage to the men and women of tomorrow. CALIFORNIA Sown is the golden grain, planted the vines; Fall swift, O loving rain, lift prayers, O pines; O green land, O gold land, fair land by the sea, Th-e trust of thy children reposes in thee. —Lillian H. S. Bailey. 246 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER XXVIII STEPHEN MALLORY WHITE PROJECT— A TYPICAL NATIVE SON. Topics — Education. Politics. U. S. Senator. Should the People or Corporations Control? The Port of Los An- geles. White's Challenge to the Children of California. Stephen Mallory White was born in San Fran- cisco, January 19, 1853, and died in Los Angeles, February 21, 1901. He grew to manhood in Santa Clara County and received his education in the public schools of that county, and in St. Ignatius College of San Francisco, and in Santa Clara College. He chose law as his profession. In November, 1874, he began the prac- tice of law in Los Angeles. His career as a lawyer was highly successful. In 1882 he was elected dis- trict attorney of Los Angeles County, and served for two years. In 1886 he was elected state senator and served for four years, from 1887 to 1891. Due to the death of Governor Washington Bartlett in 1887, Lieutenant Governor R. W. Waterman advanced to the governorship and president pro tem. Stephen M. White of the state senate of California advanced to CALIFORNIA HISTORY 247 the position of lieutenant governor. In 1890 Stephen M. White canvassed CaHfornia as a Democratic can- didate for United States Senator. He made a pro- found impression upon the people of California. Those who heard him and those who read his speeches recognized him not only as the ablest candidate, but also as a man who was ruled by convictions of right and not by ambition nor by love of money. The Re- publican party elected a majority of the legislature Monument to Stephen Mallory White, United States Senator 1893-1899. 248 CALIFORNIA HISTORY in 1890 and defeated Mr. White. This great cam- paign won him the United States senatorship in 1893, when the Democratic party secured control of the legislature. Stephen Mallory White was a great man. His natural abilities were of the highest order. His mind was keen, alert, incisive, and his power as an orator was unsurpassed. He loved work. No task was too small and no labor too great for him. In all his un- dertakings he was the master. He had high moral convictions. He loved the right because it was right ; he hated evil because it was evil. His devotion was to man and not to money. His mother was a noble woman who strove earnestly by precept and by ex- ample to instill into the minds and the lives of her children the noblest ideals of religion, of patriotism, of service, and of love for man. Her teachings found a ready and joyful response in the great heart and mind of her son Stephen Mallory. Senator White entered the United States Senate when the battle for a free harbor for Los Angeles was just beginning. The Southern Pacific Railway Company, under the control of Collis P. Huntington, had control of the ocean front at Santa Monica and had erected a great wharf in that bay and was de- termined that the United States government should improve Santa Monica Bay as the harbor for Los Angeles. The people of Southern California wished the United States to improve San Pedro Bay as the CALIFORNIA HISTORY 249 harbor for Los Angeles, because the government en- gineers considered it a better port than Santa Mon- ica, and because the harbor frontage was under gov- ernment control. The railroad made the fight for its harbor. It was a clear-cut issue— should the people or the railroad control the harbor? Senator White espoused the cause of the people. The wealth and power of a great corporation, di- rected by the master mind and dauntless will of Col- lis P. Huntington, and backed by all the corporate influences of America, were fighting for control of the transportation facilities of Southern California forever. Senator White threw himself into that fight with all the energy and ability that he possessed. He battled not merely against a selfish corporation, but also against great men in high places, who cared more for money than for right. Southern California supported Senator White, but not unanimously. Rail- road influence and selfish ambition mustered a con- siderable following and made a determined fight for the railroad's harbor at Santa Monica. The Los An- geles Times, then the only great newspaper in South- ern California, was steadfast in its support of the free harbor and of Senator White's great fight. Slow- ly, step by step, the battle was won. Congress ap- propriated millions of dollars for a great breakwater at San Pedro, and the development of Port Los An- geles, under the control of the people, began. The railroad abandoned its port at Santa Monica and 250 CALIFORNIA HISTORY finally removed its great wharf. In 1898 the Re- publican party regained control of the legislature of California and replaced Senator White with a Repub- lican Senator. President McKinley said to Senator White, "while I'm glad that California has gone Re- publican, I shall be very sorry to lose you." President McKinley's expression of regard for Sen- ator White found a pleased response in the minds of all who knew the Senator. Senator White was a vigorous fighter, but he fought fairly and always retained the respect of his opponents. Collis P. Huntington said to him, ''White, I like and respect you ; you are almost always against me; but it is not for what you can make out of us, to come over. You have a steadfast principle and you fight like a man, in the open and with clean weap- ons. I cannot say this of all the public men I have had to deal with." Senator White's last speech in the Senate of the United States contains these words, 'T experience natural pride in my presence here, but I would will- ingly sacrifice that honor rather than yield my ma- turely formed judgment to any senseless clamor, to threats or flattery, to condemnation or applause." Those were brave words, bravely spoken, as he step- ped down from the seats of the mighty to walk again, for a little while, the common way with common folks, whose interests he had guarded with unsullied fidelity and signal success. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 251 Death claimed Stephen Mallory White all too soon, for he was in the prime of life when disease came and silenced his golden voice. His fellow citizens reared a bronze monument to his memory on the west front of the courthouse grounds at Los Angeles. There he stands with hand raised as though chal- lenging all the children of California to noble ambi- tion, high endeavor, tireless effort, grand achieve- ment, and loyalty to high ideals and supreme self- respect. 252 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER XXIX TRANSPORTATION PROJECT— THE STORY OF BUILDING THE FIRST TRANSCONTINENTAL RAILROAD, 1855 - 1922. Topics — Prairie Schooner vs. Railroad and Boat. Cali- fornia's First Railroad. Theodore Judah, the Man with a Keen Vision. His Work at Washington. Hunting- ton, Crocker, Stanford and Hopkins. Stanford and the University. The Control of the Pacific. In the early days of our state, people coming from the east were obliged to travel by boat on the long and hazardous voyage around Cape Horn or had to take the chance of contracting fever on the unpleas- ant trip across the Isthmus of Panama, where tfie chance of getting a ship to California was sometimes doubtful. If they did not wish to go by water they had to make the long, tiresome and dangerous jour- ney on the ''prairie schooner" drawn by oxen and traversing unknown regions where climatic condi- tions, Indians and hardships of the wilderness made the way so unsafe that it was necessary for large parties to travel together. The demand also for a rapid mail service grew insistent. Mail at first came CALIFORNIA HISTORY 253 about once a month, via Panama, then stage Hnes were operated from the Missouri river to Sacramento and were paid Hberally by the government for serv- ice. But even this was too slow to meet the demand of the pioneers for mail, and the pony express was start- ed in April, 1860, to carry letters from St. Joseph, Missouri, to San Francisco. Sixty riders were em- ployed. Each rider was expected to cover seventy-five miles and to carry two hundred let- ters. Postage was five dollars for each half ounce. This pony ex- Theodore Judah, the builder of the first railroad in California and the man with the vision. press was continued until October, 1861, when the telegraph lines were completed. The pony express gave a notable service in carrying Lincoln's inaug- ural address to California in five days and seventeen hours. Because of these conditions the early set- 254 CALIFORNIA HISTORY tiers in California decided that it would be necessary to have railroad communication with the east, and so every one of influence besought those in the old homes to use whatever persuasion they could upon Congress to provide and construct a railroad from the Atlantic to the Pacific Coast. Indeed, the idea of the Pacific Railroad was not new because we find from the Congressional Records that in 1835 the plan was presented of building a road from some Missouri River point to the Puget Sound and later the same plan was broached for building to the Columbia River. On February 7, 1849, U. S. Senator Thomas H. Benton, father-in-law of our famous pathfinder, John C. Fremont, introduced in the Senate a bill providing for a Central National road to be built from St Louis to San Francisco. The government in this act was to donate a strip of land the entire distance, 100 feet wide, and on this right-of-way iron rails were to be laid if possible, and where rails could not be laid, a macadam roadw^ay was to be built. This bill failed to pass. On August 4, 1852, Congress passed an act grant- ing a right-of-way 100 feet wide over any public land of the United States from a Missouri River point to the Pacific Ocean to any company which would build a railroad, plank road or macadamized turnpike, then, or within ten years thereafter chartered. This, how- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 255 ever, did not help the people of California, for no one took any notice of the act in this state. On February 22, 1856, the first railroad in Cali- fornia was formally started. It was called the Sac- ramento Valley Railroad and ran from Sacramento to Folsom, a distance of thirty-two miles. This road was never of any great importance in the state his- tory except for one fact : the man who was employed to serve as the chief engineer in its construction was a young man named Theodore D. Judah of Bridge- port, Connecticut. Mr. Judah was empowered with the authority of purchasing supplies in the east and transporting them to California. He commenced the construction of his road early in 1855. While working on this road he conceived the idea of constructing a transconti- nental line. On every occasion possible he took ex- cursions into the mountains toward the eastern part of the state, and being a man of keen vision and won- derful foresight, he pictured to himself the tunnels which he would build, the lines of railroad which he could construct, and the vast possibilities incident to the entrance of a railroad into California. The one handicap which he suffered was the lack of money. While working in Sacramento he met four young men who were in business in that growing center of population; they were Collis P. Huntington and Mark Hopkins, who had come to California in 1849 and had entered the hardware business; Charles 256 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Crocker, who came in 1850 and owned a dry goods store, and Leland Stanford, who came in 1852, and was then engaged in the grocery business. Mr. Judah imbued them with his idea that a railroad would be a wonderful thing not only for the state of Califor- nia, but also for those who should build it. They were practical business men and caught his vision. Mr. Judah was sent to Washington and there en- listed the aid of Congress. He was successful in being appointed secretary of the Senate Committee on the Pacific Railroad. This gave him the right to be in the committee room at all times and also gave him the privilege of handling the reports concerning railroads and of appearing on the floor of the Senate during debates. Not only did he secure this appointment, but he also became clerk of the same committee in the House of Representa- tives, and as clerk of the committee drafted the bill which became a law. This act, which was known as the Pacific Railroad Bill, gave large grants of land to any company which would construct a railroad; it also. provided that the government would give a large sum of money to the constructors for each mile of railroad built; this money would help provide for the next mile of road, and so the government was virtually building the road for those who were willing to give their time and energy in its construction. This bill was passed on June 24, 1862; on July 1, CALIFORNIA HISTORY 257 1862, President Lincoln signed it and it became a law. Mr. Judah then returned to California and be- gan his surveys. He made several, but the present route of the Central Pacific Railroad was finally selected. In 1863 he returned to the east, and while there contracted an illness from which he died on Novem- ber 2. He was only Z7 years of age, but he had accomplished more than many people accomplish in life-times which extend far beyond the age he reached. Mr. Judah's work was taken up by S. S. Montague, who was chief engineer of the railroad for many years. The work of financing the railroad was largely by the four men who became interested after hearing Mr. Judah's plans. Collis P. Huntington became the active financier of the railroad and was responsible largely for securing the money necessary for its com- pletion. Mr. Huntington lived to be an old man. He was prominent in the affairs of the state until his death. Charles Crocker, who took over the active road building of the Central Pacific, was on the ground practically all the time directing the work of his coolies, for the right-of-way was largely prepared by Chinese labor. He developed into one of the keenest railroad men that this country has ever produced. Mr. Crocker lived in this state to a ripe old age and was very charitably inclined. He gave money freely 258 CALIFORNIA HISTORY to many institutions for dependent people and was a man universally loved and respected in California. Mark Hopkins gave largely of his means for the promotion of art in Cal- ifornia. He endowed the Hopkins Institute of Art and left many paintings as well as the building in which the art institute was housed to the school which now l)ears his name, and many years later the fortune which Mr. Hop- kins left to his wife came as a bequest to the University of Cal- ifornia. Leland Stanford be- came the war governor of California. He also served his country as a Senator and died while serving in that capac- ity. Mr. and Mrs. Stan- ford lost their only son, Leland Stanford, Junior, who died while they were travelling in Europe. Before the son's death. Sen- ator Stanford promised the young man that he would This plate may be seen at Front and K streets, Sacramento, California. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 259 endow a university where young men might receive an education. On their return to America Senator and Mrs. Stanford began to plan for the erection of Stanford University, which is located at the old Stan- ford home at Palo Alto, California. All of the organizers of the railroad, excepting Mr. Judah, gained great wealth, but they largely gave it back to the people from whence it came. There has been criticism as to the manner in which they made the large amounts which they secured in the construction of the railroad, but that has been wiped out by time and by the disposition which they made of their fortunes. The building of the Santa Fe Railroad to Los An- geles, San Diego and San Francisco; the Western Pacific from Ogden to San Francisco via the Feather River Canyon; the Salt Lake line; the San Diego Railroad from Yuma, followed the completion of the Southern and Central Pacific. The development of electric train service since 1909, and transportation by sea, including the completion of the Panama Canal at an expense of $365,148,000 in August, 1914, are all events of great interest, and with such transporta- tion by land and sea will give California ports control of the Pacific. 260 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CHAPTER XXX IMPERIAL VALLEY* PROJECT — THE DEVELOPMENT OF A DESERT COUNTY BY IRRIGATION. Topics — The U. S. Government's Storage Dam. The Rapid Growth of a Desert County Under New Condi- tions. A Land of Desert Wastes Until 1890, Now a Land of Peace and Plenty. The Imperial Valley, once known as the Colorado Desert is really the delta of the great river. The Colorado is more than 1700 miles long. Its water- shed embraces Western Colorado, Southern Wyom- ing, Eastern Utah and Western Arizona. This is a region lying more than a mile above the sea and having mountain ranges, many of whose peaks are more than two miles high. This elevated region receives much rain and vast quantities of snow in the winter season, and loses its snow in late May, June and early July. A great flood heavily laden with mud descends * Read Joaquin Miller's "Ship in the Desert" and Theodore Van Dyke's "The Desert", or George Wharton James' book, "The Col- orado Desert"; also Madge Morris Wagner's poem, "The Colo- rado Desert". CALIFORNIA HISTORY 261 Brawley main canal supplying a large portion of Imperial Valley. rapidly from the Rocky Mountains to the Imperial Valley. This flood has rushed down the watershed of the Colorado through uncounted centuries and has made it a wonderland of carved hills, sculptured mountains and stupendous canyons. The Colorado courses its way through the deepest and grandest of the canyons. Although more than a half million acres of land are irrigated in the Imperial Valley from the Colo- rado, yet not half its water is used and all its power is wasted. The United States government is begin- ning the construction of a great storage dam in Boul- der Canyon. When this is completed 1,250,000 acres 262 CALIFORNIA HISTORY can be irrigated and 600,000 horsepower of electrical energy can be generated. Other great dams may be erected further up the river. If all possible use is made of the river, it will irrigate more than 2,000,000 acres and will generate fully 6,000,000 horsepower of electric energy. The Imperial Valley began to attract serious at- tention after the Southern Pacific Railway was com- pleted from Los Angeles to New Orleans. That road crosses the valley from Banning to Yuma and has a branch line running south from Niland to Calexico and thence to Yuma. The main line as originally built crossed the bed of a dry lake for nearly twenty miles. This lake bed was over 280 feet below sea level at its lowest point. The spring flood of the Colo- rado partly filled the lake in 1891, and it was named the Salton Sea. The source of the water was so great a mystery that Major H. W. Patton, a daring young reporter, hired a small boat and an Indian guide at Yuma and floated down the Colorado, on the crest of the spring flood, in search of the an- swer. Two weeks later he arrived at Old Beach on the shore of the Salton Sea, having proved that the Salton Sea was being filled from the river and not from the ocean. With the passing of the spring flood evaporation emptied the lake in less than five years. After the completion of the railway across the val- ley, a few daring men, the pick of the sons of that superb race who have led the march of civilization CALIFORNIA HISTORY 263 from Plymouth Rock and Jamestown to the Pacific shore, entered the valley and began the great fight against heat and drought. In June, 1901, they turned the waters of the Colorado into their first system of irrigating canals. In 1922 a splendid group of peo- ple met at Brawley and celebrated the twenty-first anniversary of that great event. In 1905 there was a mighty flood in the Colorado River, and the river seized the irrigation system which had been developed rapidly and imperfectly. The flood swept down the canals and thence into an ancient channel known as New River and poured into Salton Sea in a thundering torrent. Soon the sea was a great body of water. It covered the salt works and flooded the railway line for miles. With each passing day, the situation grew more menacing. The river ceased its flow to the Gulf of California and poured into Salton Sea. It began to cut a wide, deep channel from the Salton Sea back toward the Colo- rado. This channel advanced up stream a full half mile a day. It required little imagination to see that if not stopped it would cut back to the river and up the river for many miles, thus giving a new and deep channel through which the river would flow until in the course of many years the valley was filled to sea level, and then perhaps the river would flow again to the gulf. The river must be turned in a few weeks or the ruin of the valley would be complete. 264 CALIFORNIA HISTORY The settlers were not rich enough to do the work because it would require millions of dollars' worth of work quickly done. The settlers appealed to Presi- dent Roosevelt and Congress. President Roosevelt, who was always equal to any emergency, found that Congress could not or would not act quickly. He ap- pealed to the Southern Pacific Railway Company, which had the most to lose if the river were not turned. President E. H. Harriman of the Southern Pacific Railway Company directed Colonel Epes Randolph, a railroad builder noted for his ability and courage, to turn the river, and put the entire resources of the company at his command. Colonel Randolph began the effort at once. It was a time for haste. Colonel Randolph built a railroad to the break in the levee and called to his aid every flat car from El Paso to Bakersfield. Then materials and machinery were assembled with incredible speed. Great piledrivers began to drive piles to put a bridge across the stream. The soil was sandy and the whirl- ing torrent would loosen the pile and send it racing toward the Salton Sea as soon as the driving ceased. Defeat seemed certain, when Colonel Randolph solved the problem by having great mats of willows woven on flat boats above the break. The willow mats were pinned to the bottom of the stream with great piles and weighted down with huge rocks. The foliage of the willows served as a trap for the sand and the CALIFORNIA HISTORY 265 piles stood. Railroad tracks were built across the flood and everything was made ready for the effort to turn the river. The great effort was set for a moonlight night because of the oppressive heat by day. At sundown of the fateful night the fight began. For hours the voices of men, the puffing of engines, the steady roll of trains, and the sounds of falling rock plunging into the torrent filled the night, and then another note was heard. The river began to growl as though angry that puny man should dare dispute its dominion over the valley. A new and most terrifying danger arose. The whole mass of the dam began to move down stream. The move- ment, while not rapid, was perceptible. Colonel Ran- dolph was appealed to, and answered, ''Dump more rock. Dump it faster." Efforts were speeded to the utmost and in a little while the trembling dam stood still, and a row of rock appeared above the water. The angry growl of the river ceased and its mighty flood turned again into its ancient channel and flowed toward the gulf. In a single night the river was turned and the greatest bloodless battle in human history was won. The development of the valley has been rapid. In 1922, 70,000 people were living there and its crops were worth more than $70,000,000. Each year the spring flood of the Colorado menaces the valley and will continue to do so until the Boulder Canyon Dam conquers the river. 266 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 267 CHAPTER XXXI CONSERVATION PROJECT— THE NATIONAL AND STATE PARKS AND FORESTS OF CALIFORNIA. Topics — Government Forest Work. National Parks. State Parks. Air Service. Government forest work had its beginning in the United States in 1876, with the appointment by the Department of Agricuhure of a special agent to study several forest conditions in the United States. In 1881 a Division of Forestry was created in the de- partment, which by 1901 became the Bureau of For- estry, and finally in 1905 the Forest Service was es- tablished. In the year 1922 nearly $7,000,000 was appropriated by the United States government for forest work. Today the forest work of the Government is mainly centered in the Forest Service, which in addition to administering and protecting the National Forests, studies a great number of general forest problems and diffuses information regarding forestry. The great waste of the forest lands in the United States caused Congress in 1891 to authorize the Pres- 268 CALIFORNIA HISTORY ident to set aside forest reserves, as National Forests were for nine years called. In 1897 a new act pro- viding for organization and management of reserves was passed, placing them under the Secretary of the Interior. The American National Forest system dates from the passage of that Act. Besides National Forests the Government has set apart public domains as National Parks, which are managed by the National Park service. In 1890 in California the following National Parks were formed: Sequoia National Park, 252 square miles; the Big Tree National Park, with 10,000 Sequoia trees over ten feet in diameter, some 25 to 35 feet in diameter, situated among towering moun- tain ranges, startling precipices and caves of consid- erable size; Yosemite National Park, 1125 square miles, a valley of world famed beauty, lofty cliffs, romantic vistas, waterfalls of extraordinary height and three groves of big trees; General Grant Na- tional Park, four square miles, created to preserve the celebrated General Grant tree, 35 feet in diameter. In 1916 the Lassen Volcanic National Park, 124 square miles, was formed in which Lassen Peak, 10,465 feet high, the only active volcano in the United States proper, is situated. Mud geysers, hot springs and the Cinder Cone, 6899 feet high, are important features. In addition to these five National Parks in Cali- fornia there are seventeen National Forests named CALIFORNIA HISTORY 269 as follows: Angeles, California, Cleveland, El Do- rado, Inyo, Klamath, Lassen, Modoc, Mono, Plumas, Santa Barbara, Sequoia, Shasta, Sierra, Stanislaus, Tahoe and Trinity. Before the National Forests were formed the red- wood forests of California had passed into private hands. In order to preserve a portion of the redwood forests for the benefit of posterity, the state of Cali- fornia purchased from private owners a tract of red- wood in Santa Cruz County known as the Big Basin. This is managed by a commission appointed by the Governor. The Muir Woods, a small but very wonderful red- wood forest on the southern slope of Mount Tamal- pais, was donated to the nation as a national monu- ment by Mr. William Kent. Neither of these tracts is a national forest, although the latter is owned by the Government. They are managed solely wath the view of preserving and developing their scenic fea- tures. The National Parks and Forests are managed for the benefit of the state and nation. Cattlemen are allowed to send in cattle, lumbermen are allowed to cut timber, and campers are allowed to throng the forests. The National Park Service and Forest Service regulate the forests and see to preven- tion of fires, attend stocking of streams with fish and fighting of plant diseases. The California State Board of Forestry created by 270 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Act of Legislature in 1899 has done much to ''Save the Redwoods." It also furnishes trees free of charge for highways and has a tree specialist in charge of the work. In 1921 $300,000 was appropri- ated for the purchase of virgin redwoods in Hum- boldt and Mendocino counties. More than 2000 acres have already been purchased. Aeroplanes are now used successfully by the United States Forest Service in detecting and conquering forest fires, and millions of dollars worth of timber has been saved. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 271 CHAPTER XXXII CITIES WITH HISTORICAL BACKGROUND PROJECT— THE HISTORICAL BACKGROUND AND GROWTH OF SOME OF OUR LEADING CITIES. Topics — San Francisco, Los Angeles, Oakland, San Diego, Sacramento, Berkeley, Long Beach, Pasadena, Fresno, Stockton, San Jose, Santa Barbara. The city of San Francisco was founded by Anza in 1770. It was first named Yerba Buena. It con- sisted for many years of a presidio near where Fort Scott now stands, and the Mission Dolores, and a few scattering Indian settlements. Located on the harbor of San Francisco, its importance even in these early days was recognized. Father Font said of it: ''The port of San Francisco is a marvel of nature and may be called the port of ports." In 1837 it con- sisted of a tent of the harbor master and traders' house and store on the edge of a cove. At the Mis- sion Dolores there were at various times from a few hundred to a thousand neophytes. Occasionally a vessel entered the harbor and the arrival of a ves- sel up to 1848 was considered a great event by the few inhabitants. Washington A. Bartlett, the first alcalde, was a 272 CALIFORNIA HISTORY . ,_ POWELL . . ,. ,, "ir ~lr aBr -ol (5a, "ii « j|-.r 11 .= ;; .r jl „ || „ || „ I -- 'I 1 L-^i-.aiLsJL^'L JL Si / --I 1 . STOCKTON ' *— ' 's^oT^t' ' =1 .li- ^ ^^\'lnnl w ^^^"£^s^° i" 1848, showing the condi- tions before what was called the Yerba Buena Cove was filled in. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 273 The Golden Gate and San Francisco in 1854. lieutenant on a naval vessel in port at the time of the passing of the Mexican regime. In January, 1847. he arbitrarily changed the name of Yerba Buena to San Francisco. Bartlett leaving with his vessel, George Hyde was for a short time alcalde, being superceded by Edwin Bryant, appointed by General Kearny. After Bryant, Hyde was again alcalde and was followed by Dr. J. Townsend, and he by Dr. T. M. Leavenworth. The last alcalde and the first mayor under the new charter was Col. J. W. Geary. All of the above had streets named after them, and J. W. Geary, after whom Geary street was named, went back to his native Pennsylvania and became governor of that state. 274 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 275 The discovery of gold brought to San Francisco a large number of undesirable people, and the new conditions in the rapidly growing city brought about a reign of terror. Such government as then ex- isted not functioning properly, a vigilance com- mittee was organized in 1851. This committee exe- cuted four men and compelled a large number to leave the city. In 1856 another reign of terror was started and William T. Coleman, a man of great courage and leadership, formed a second committee for law and order. James King, editor of the Bul- letin, was shot by a man named Casey in 1856. King had been writing editorials for good government. The vigilance committee, with William T. Coleman as leader, hung Casey and drove 800 men out of the city. At one time the committee had enrolled a force of 6000 citizens. When gold was discovered in 1848, San Francisco had 850 inhabitants. The discovery of gold brought to Yerba Buena the gold-seekers from around the Horn, across the Isthmus of Panama and the over- land trails. The city then began to grow rapidly. In 1850 it was a substantial looking city with hotels, substantial houses, hospitals, and a mercantile library. In 1850 the city was incorporated under the name of San Francisco. It was consolidated as a city and county in 1856 and was incorporated under a free- holders charter in 1899. 276 CALIFORNIA HISTORY San Francisco has been a victim of several great fires. On December 4, 1849, the city was burned with an estimated loss of $1,000,000. On May 4, 1850, there was another destructive fire, destroying $4,- 000,000, and a year later another fire, destroying $12,000,000. April 18, 1906, was the date of the San Francisco fire and earthquake. The earthquake affected an area of 450 miles in length and 50 miles in width at many points. Buildings on 2593 acres, over four square miles, were destroyed by fire in the down town business and residential section of the city. Four hundred and fifty people lost their lives. The loss of property was over $350,000,000 and there were over 28,188 buildings destroyed. Although 250,000 people were made homeless, the city was not discouraged. The lines of Bret Harte in refer- ring to San Francisco proved true: Serene, indifferent of Fate, Thou sittest at the Western Gate; Upon thy height, so lately won, Still slant the banners of the sun; Thou seest the white seas strike their tents, O Warder of two Continents! Since 1906 everything has been new in San Fran- cisco. New homes, new business blocks, new schools, new churches, and new public service utilities. The city of San Francisco has been unique in its growth. From 1848 to 1870 it was the great commercial cen- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 277 Yerba Buena (now San Francisco) in the spring of 1837. ter of the western states for the supphes to the gold fields. Portland grew in importance and took away her northern trade. Los Angeles developed and took away her southern trade. Seattle grew and took away part of her Oriental and Alaskan trade, but San Francisco, "serene and indifferent", has main- tained its commercial leadership of the western world. Among its most attractive features is Golden Gate Park, which was established in 1870. The city has changed the sand dunes and made them one of the most attractive places in the city. This has been followed up with an excellent system of parks and playgrounds in various parts of the city. Many of its principal streets are named after Spanish and American pioneers. The city has built and operates 278 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 279 a number of municipal car lines. It has appropriated $40,000,000 for bringing water to the city from the Hetch-Hetchy V^alley. This is under the direction of the city engineer, M. M. O'Shaughnessy. Under the present administration of James Rolph, Jr., there is maintained an excellent public school system; a department of health, maintaining a city and county This is a picture of San Francisco's beautiful City Hall in the Civic Center, erected after the fire of 1906 280 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Along old trails in Tuolumne. The city of San Francisco has constructed the great Hetch Hetchy aqueduct hospital, which is one of the finest sociahzed institu- tions of its kind in the country. In 1915 the city of San Francisco celebrated the opening of the Panama Canal with the Panama Pa- cific International Exposition. It was opened Feb- ruary 20, 1915, and closed December 4, 1915. It covered 635 acres of ground on the shore of San CALIFORNIA HISTORY 281 282 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Francisco Bay known as Harbor View. There were 80,000 exhibitors and it surpassed all other exposi- tions in its unity of motive, in architecture, color scheme and statuary, courts and fountains. The ex- position was held under the leadership of Charles C. Moore, the president of the Panama Pacific Interna- tional Exposition Company. San Francisco received as a permanent benefit from the exposition the Ex- position Auditorium in the Civic Center, and its great $50,000 pipe organ. The Civic Center of San Fran- cisco provides for an attractive grouping of the City Hall, the Auditorium, the Public Library, the State of California building and others. LOS ANGELES The founding of Los Angeles was the direct re- sult of the missionary labors of Father Junipero Serra, and the exploration of Don Caspar de Portola. The city was founded on September 4, 1781, by eleven families from Sinaloa in Old Mexico, who came with Anza, under direction of Governor Neve. It was located on the west bank of the Los Angeles River, twenty-six miles north of San Pedro Bay, fif- teen miles east of the ocean at its nearest point, and at the spot where the lines of land travel crossed nat- urally. The plaza or center of the city was that piece of ground bounded now by Bellevue, High, Main and Marchessault streets. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 283 o 01 > o t -^■ >.^ ^i. r. 1 f 3 5' w 3 O o > 3 ■M !.S 284 CALIFORNIA HISTORY The Port of Los Angeles— 1922. When Governor Neve was founding Los Angeles, Washington and Rochambeau were taking Corn- walHs at Yorktown, but no echo of that Horious achievement was heard in CaHfornia until long af- terward. The outlet for Los Angeles by way of the sea was through the Bay of San Pedro. This part was dis- covered by Cabrillo in 1542 and named the Bay of Smokes. The first American ship entered the har- bor in 1805 and traded with the people for otter skins and food supplies. The early settlers of Los Angeles engaged in agriculture and stock raising. In 1800 the shipment of wheat to Old Mexico began. The first church in Los Angeles was dedicated in 1822. It stood on what is now Main Street and faced the Plaza. Los Angeles w^as the leading city in South- ern California from the beginning. Its early history is mainly the story of the political struggles of the pioneer Spanish families. The names of Dominguez, CALIFORNIA HISTORY 285 Figiieroa, Pico and Verdugo are linked inseparably with the history of Los Angeles. During the war with Mexico, Los Angeles passed under American control on January 10, 1847. Gen- eral Stephen Kearny and General John C. Fremont and Commodore Stockton were the American lead- ers who captured the city. A fort was erected on the hill above the present Broadway tunnel and named Fort Moore. Occasionally a party of Americans arrived from the east, having crossed the plains by way of Salt Lake or through Arizona, but nearly all settlers and travellers came by water through San Pedro, or through San Diego, and thence over El Camino Real. Los Angeles was distinctly a Spanish city as late as 1870, when it had 5,614 inhabitants. In 1869 a railroad was built to San Pedro. In the decade from 1870 to 1880, the Southern Pacific Railway entered Great railroad terminal, city of Los Angeles. 286 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Los Angeles from the San Joaquin Valley. In 1880 its population was 11,183, and the Americans were dominating the city. The decade from 1880 to 1890 saw the completion of the Southern Pacific Railway to New Orleans, the completion of the Santa Fe Railway to Los Angeles, and the first great real es- tate boom in the history of Los Angeles. The rail- roads drew Los Angeles very near to the east and started it on that career of marvelous growth which still marks it as a wonder city. In 1882 the Los Angeles State Normal School began its work. In 1890 Los Angeles had 50,395 people. Between 1890 and 1900 Los Angeles waged and won its great fight for the development of a free harbor at San Pedro under the control of the people. The National government accepted San Pe- dro as the port to be developed and built, a stone breakwater more than five miles in length which gives a protected anchorage of deep water more than 3000 acres in extent. In 1906 Los Angeles annexed Wilmington and San Pedro and began the active de- velopment of the inner harbor between San Pedro and Long Beach. The inner harbor consists of more than 30,000 acres of tide lands protected from the sea by a strip of land extending along the shore from Long Beach to Deadman's Island at the en- trance to the inner harbor. The tide lands are easy to dredge and the danger from silt has been over- come by deflecting the Los Angeles River into the CALIFORNIA HISTORY 287 ocean just west of Long Beach. Competent engi- neers declare that Port Los Angeles can be made the greatest artificial harbor in the world, and Los Angeles is determined to do that work. In 1900 Los Angeles had 102,479 people. The need for an adequate water supply was becoming serious. On the 12th day of June, 1907, Los An- geles decided by a vote of 21,918 to 2,128 to issue $23,000,000 in bonds to bring a supply of water from Inyo County. The work of planning and building the aqueduct was placed in the hands of William Mulholland, one of the greatest civil engineers. This man-made river stretching for 240 miles under moun- tains, over canyons, across deserts, from the snows of Mount Whitney to the homes of Los Angeles, was built within the estimated limits of time and cost. Its maximum capacity is 33,000 miners' inches of water, and a hundred thousand horsepower of elec- tric energy. In the period from 1900 to 1910, two great rail- way enterprises helped Los Angeles. In 1901 Henry E. Huntington began the construction of the Pacific Electric Railway system which centers at Sixth and Main Streets in Los Angeles, and serves the people of Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside and San Ber- nardino Counties. Henry E. Huntington has built and endowed in recent years a great library, where he has placed many treasures of an historic and ar- tistic value. 288 CALIFORNIA HISTORY CALIFORNIA HISTORY 289 William A. Clark, formerly U. S. Senator from Montana, completed his great railroad, the Salt Lake line, in this decade. This road extends 782 miles from Salt Lake to Los Angeles, and gives the people Church of Nuestra Senora, Reina de Los Angeles This, the oldest church in Los Angeles and still in use, stands near the site of the first pueblo. The corner stone of the chapel was laid by Padre Gil of San Gabriel in 1814. 290 CALIFORNIA HISTORY of Southern Nevada, Utah, Idaho, Montana and Wyoming a direct outlet to the markets of the world through Port Los Angeles. Automobile boulevards radiate in all directions. Since 1910 Los Angeles has developed rapidly as a manufacturing city. In 1920 it was the tenth city in population in America, having increased from 319,198 in 1910 to 576,073 in 1920. In 1920 Los Angeles County was the lead- ing agricultural county of the United States and Los Angeles City ranked as the tenth American city in manufacturing. Los Angeles has a mild and equable climate because of its nearness to the sea, the range of mountains which curves like a great arch from above Santa Monica eastward for seventy-five miles, and then southw^ard to the ocean, and to its near- ness to the equator. This climate has attracted the thoughtful and the daring from all parts of the world. The tide of population flowing into Los Angeles brings to the city the pick of the world. The city is going ahead with great rapidity, and its devel- opment along every line represents the very best in American ideals and achievements. OAKLAND Because of the deep water lying close along the shore, the ships coming through the Golden Gate anchored on the peninsula side, and it was on the peninsula that the padres built their mission. The CALIFORNIA HISTORY 292 CALIFORNIA HISTORY establishment of the presidio and fort built by the Spaniards also tended to bring to this side the travel both by land and sea, and it was very natural that the first town on San Francisco Bay should be on the peninsula. Across the bay, on the mainland, was a low, broad plain, covered with great oaks and with hills beyond whose ravines were filled with redwoods. Men from Portola's expedition of 1772 had camped here, and in 1797 Father Fermin Francisco de Lasuen had es- tablished farther south the Mission of San Jose, but it was not until twenty-three years later that the first settlers came to that part of the mainland across from Yerba Buena. Don Luis Maria Peralta received, on June 20, 1820, from Governor de Sala, last of the Spanish governors of California, a grant of land which included all of the sites of the present cities of Berkeley, Oakland, Alameda and San Leandro, and which was called the Rancho of San Antonio. Peralta had four sons, and in 1842 the Rancho San Antonio was divided among them. To Jose Domingo Peralta was given the northwest portion, embracing what is now Berkeley. The adjacent por- tion, that which is now the main part of the city of Oakland, including the Encinal del Temescal, then an oak grove, was given to Vicente Peralta. To Antonio Maria Peralta was given that which now includes East Oakland and Alameda, while to Igna- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 293 cio Peralta was given the land to the south, as far as San Leandro Creek. With the great wave of immigration following the discovery of gold came the gradual overflow of white settlers upon the Peralta lands. In 1850 one Moses Chase, said to be the first white settler in Oakland territory, pitched his tent beside the estuary. In 1851 Edson Adams, A. J. Moon and H. W. Carpen- tier squatted on Vicente Peralta's land near the point where Broadway now touches the estuary. Peralta appealed to the law and finally leased to the three men the tract of land on which they laid out the city of Oakland, which was incorporated in 1852. The little town had at this time only about 100 inhabitants. There were a few scattered ranchos in the vicinity and the lumbering of the redwoods in the adjacent hills was the only industry. Wild Mex- ican cattle still roamed the hills, which were luxu- riantly covered with yellow mustard and wild oats. Yet so rapidly was California growing, and so prom- ising the future of the little city, that in 1853 Oak- land was reported to have a population of 8,000. Now the old Rancho San Antonio is covered with the spreading and constantly lengthening streets of the east bay cities, separate in government but one in interest, and so closely grown together that they are one in appearance. Handsome homes are being built high up in the hills where once the clumsy oxen dragged great redwood logs to the mill, and the es- 294 CALIFORNIA HISTORY tuary shores where Moses Chase pitched his tent are covered with busy factories. A quarter of a milhon people call Oakland their home. A prominent feature of Oakland's growth is her public and private schools. The city is known for many beautiful parks. One lies about Lake Merritt, a lovely sheet of water in the very heart of the city; but that which perhaps holds the greatest interest is one of the latest to be acquired, and which serves as a memorial to our great poet, Joacjuin Miller. This covers a large part of the land, high up toward the summit of the hills, upon which the poet built his home and w^here he lived for so long. Only a bare and rocky hill then, Joaquin planted upon it a forest of cypress and eucalypti which have thrived and grown. Above the poet's old home, preserved as a museum, is the spot upon which Fremont stood when he gave to the Golden Gate its name, and here Joaquin with his own hands built a monument of stone to the great explorer. On a lower slope he built a funeral pyre of rough native stone and on this his ashes were scat- tered at his death. SAN DIEGO The city of San Diego has the finest historical background of any of our modern cities. It was established in 1769, being the first place located in CALIFORNIA HISTORY 295 California by the Spaniards. It was originally in- corporated by a special act of the legislature under American rule in 1850. It was from San Diego that William Walker* started on his career as a filibuster. He was born in 1824, was a lawyer at Marysville, and editor in San Francisco in the early '50's. The San Diego Herald December 3, 1853, publishes an account of Walker's capture of La Paz, Lower California, and December 24, of the capture of Ensenada. The expedition, how- ever, was a failure. The land of what was known originally as Old Town, or Old San Diego, as compared with New San Diego, was purchased by A. E. Horton at 27 cents an acre in 1867. He laid out the streets, parks, etc., or a new city. Mr. Horton gave the wonder- ful park of 1400 acres to the city. By the plaza where now stands the U. S. Grant Hotel stood the hotel known as the Horton House, very famous in the 70's and 80's. The city has had many ups and downs. In 1886 to 1890 it had a great real estate boom due to the building of the Santa Fe and the prospects of other railroads and to the proposed irrigation system. It was at this time that Coro- nado beach was purchased and placed on the market * "Walker in Nicaragua" is the title of a poem by Joaquin Miller that made Walker as well as Miller famous in London. Walker afterwards became a revolutionary lead-er in Nicaragua and in an attempt to make war upon Honduras was captured and shot in the year 1860. 296 CALIFORNIA HISTORY as a town site, and the beautiful Hotel Del Coronado erected. The city was incorporated under the Free Holder's Charter in 1889. In 1915 and 1916 it held an exposition in honor of the opening of the Panama Canal. The chief attractions of San Diego are its beautiful bay, its wonderful park, its equitable cli- mate, its schools, its government buildings, and its teachers' college. SACRAMENTO Sacramento, capital city of California continuously since 1854 and serving as the seat of government for a little time prior to that, in 1852, is one of the richest in historical association of any city in the state. Dating its history back to the founding in 1839 of Sutter's Fort, whose walls have been rebuilt on their original site close to the heart of the city, Sacra- mento witnessed the stirring days of California's lib- eration from Mexican rule, for it was within the walls of Sutter's Fort that General Vallejo was for a time imprisoned. The Pathfinder, Fremont, had been before this, and was again, the guest of Cap- tain Sutter at the fort. All the emigrant trails which entered the state by the northern routes centered at Sutter's post, and it was from here that relief expe- ditions were sent out by the big-hearted Swiss to the belated emigrant trains caught in the snows of the Sierras. Here came James Marshall with his news of the discovery of gold on the American river; and here to CALIFORNIA HISTORY 297 [WB| f : ; ^ fS^SS^^i^^^m M ^^^^^^^^^il fj^^'^^j^WMJl '^^Bj^m^F* t^' 298 CALIFORNIA HISTORY this, the principal — ahiiost the only — trading post of the two great valleys, came the hoard of gold seekers who followed in the train of the discovery. At the head of deepwater navigation on the Sacramento river, the town which sprung up about Sutter's trad- ing post became the important point of departure for the mines, and was incorporated as a city in 1850. It was in Sacramento, too, that the first railway of the state had its terminus, the Sacramento Valley road which was started from Sacramento in Febru- ary of 1855 and completed to Folsom, twenty-two miles away, by February 22, 1856. Perhaps it is only natural, then, that Sacramento should also have given birth to California's first railway connection with the eastern states, the Central Pacific. The men respon- sible for its building, Leland Stanford, Mark Hopkins, C. P. Huntington and Charles Crocker, were all res- idents of Sacramento at that time and planned to make the city the terminus of the great transconti- nental road. Stanford's residence is still preserved, a home for orphaned children; and Crocker gave to the city of Sacramento his home with its adjoining art gallery, containing one of the finest collections of paintings in the west. The Capitol grounds are among the most beautiful in the country, containing many varieties of shrubs and trees from all parts of the United States and from many foreign countries. Sacramento's climate is such that plants of the sub-tropics as well as those CALIFORNIA HISTORY 299 of the temperate zone thrive there, and in the Capitol park orange trees golden with fruit mingle with Nor- way pine; the Rose of Sharon from the Holy Land drops its petals beneath the drooping fronds of the banana palm, and the crimson berries of the Califor- nia holly gleam beside thorny cactus from the south- ern deserts. California's state fair, one of the greatest in the country, annually brings here people from all over the state to view the varied products on display, and it is here that one best realizes the diversity and im- mensity of California's products. In government Sacramento is well toward the front among California municipalities. In 1893 it changed to the commission form of government, and within the past few years has placed its affairs in the hands of a city manager, one of the few California cities working under this plan. Sacramento is an attractive city and an interesting city. Its streets, shaded by the great elms of half a century's growth, run down to the wharves which line the banks of the Sacramento river. Here dock the steamers which carry the produce of the im- mensely rich delta country below, and here occasion- ally may be seen an ocean steamer which has brought in its cargo of lumber from some coast port. Not the least of Sacramento's attractions are found in its splendid schools, conducted under a system 300 CALIFORNIA HISTORY which has in the last few years attracted much at- tention from educators here and in the east. LONG BEACH Long Beach is called the Wonder City of Califor- nia, and rightly so, for situated on a seven mile stretch facing south on the Pacific Ocean, swept by soft breezes, it has such an ideal climate that it has drawn to itself thousands of people within the last few decades. Incorporated first in 1888 with a population of around 500 it is now a progressive mod- ern city of more than 85,000 people. In the beginning two tribes of Indians, the Pubgna and the Tibahagna, inhabited the region of Long Beach. In 1784 a large grant of land was given Manuel Nieto by the King of Spain, extending from the Santa Ana River to the San Gabriel and from the ocean to the northern limits of what is now Downey. This later was divided into five large ranchos. Long Beach stands on part of two of these, Ranchos Los Cerritos and Los Alamitos. These typical California cattle ranches later came under the control of two Americans, John Temple and Abel Stearns, through marriage, during 1835-1845. John Temple built the Cerritos Ranch House, the cen- ter of generous hospitality and scene of many fiestas, fandangos, bull-fights, horse races and barbecues. When the Americans came John Temple was made alcalde of Los Angeles and after the taking posses- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 301 sion of California by the United States, the Ranchos Los Cerritos and Los Alamitos were confirmed to their owners. In 1863-4 a terrible drouth caused great loss of cat- tle and Mr. Temple and Mr. Stearns decided to aban- don ranching. [n 1865 the firm of Jonathan Bixby and Company purchased Rancho Los Cerritos for $20,000.00, or about 80 cents per acre. A few years later another firm, of which Jonathan Bixby and his cousin John Bixby were members, purchased Rancho Los Alami- tos. The ranches were stocked with merino sheep and for years much wool was produced. In 1881 W. E. Willmore, a real estate man, pro- posed to Mr. Bixby the laying out of a city along part of the seven miles of beach between the San Gabriel river and Alamitos bay. Willmore was given an option on 4000 acres at $25.00 per acre. The city was laid out and settlers began to arrive. In 1882 a o-rand auction was held. The Southern Pacific rail- road ran to Wilmington and Mr. Willmore and asso- ciates put in a horse car line to connect with it. In 1887 the Southern Pacific ran a road into Long Beach. In 1884 Mr. Willmore failed and Willmore City and the American Colony was sold to Charles B. Woodhead and others, who changed the name of the town to Long Beach and made extensive im- provements. 302 CALIFORNIA HISTORY In 1884 the Methodists were given a block of land in the middle of the town and commenced holding Chautauqua assemblies during the . summer. This was the beginning of a large number of summer vis- itors. During the boom days of 1885-6 much land was sold in Long Beach. Situated on the ocean, Long Beach has always had dreams of a harbor. At present she is tied up with the development of the Port of Los Angeles. The plan of having a harbor of her own by dredging the mouth of the San Gabriel river was brought about in 1905. The last twenty years has seen a tremendous growth in Long Beach. Beautiful houses, fine streets, artesian water system, parks, fire protection, police, excellent schools, a great amusement center, hotels make it a bustling city. The discovery of oil within the last year on city lands has aided in paying the city's expenses. Long Beach at present is the Mecca of Middle Westerners and is destined to be one of the largest and most attractive residential cities of the Pacific Coast. BERKELEY Berkeley is the home of the University of Cali- fornia, the largest university in the world. The town is situated north of Oakland on San Francisco Bay. It derived its name from George Berkeley, Bishop of CALIFORNIA HISTORY 303 Cloyiie, Ireland, who came to this country for the purpose of estabhshing colleges early in the eigh- teenth century. It was he who wrote the famous lines, ''Westward the star of empire takes its way." When the university was located on its site in 1868 there was there a small village called Ocean View. It is from this village the Berkeley of today has grown. It is now a rapidly growing city with a popu- lation of 56,036, according to the 1920 census. It has a good harbor, large factories and industrial works, and beautiful homes. Besides being the educational center of the west it has an industrial future with its excellent location. PASADENA On January 27, 1874, a picnic was held a few miles north of Los Angeles by a group of people from In- diana. They had bought a large stretch of land, paying $30.00 an acre for it, and planned to found homes on the site. During the following years many more settlers joined the Indiana colony and engaged in ranching. In 1875 the Indian name, Pasadena, meaning crown of the valley, was given the place. As time passed, Pasadena's growth, owing to her climatic attractions, grew apace. It is today noted as a city of millionaire homes. While it has some flour- ishing industries, it is essentially a home town. Yearly since 1890 a Tournament of Roses has been held on New Year's Day, which shows the world that the 304 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Crown of the Valley is blossoming in lavish pro- fusion in mid-winter. Pasadena's population, accord- ing to the 1920 census, is 45,354, and it is growing rapidly. FRESNO The city of Fresno is one of the newest cities of California to achieve importance. It was first incor- porated as a city of the fifth class in 1885. It was in- corporated under a Free Holders' charter in 1901. In 1900 it had a population of only 12,470, but the raisin industry since that time has developed it into a large city until in 1920 it had a population of 45,086. Fresno is the center of a large fruit growing terri- tory. It is the center of the raisin industry for the United States. It is the most important town in the southern San Joaquin Valley and its growth is due to the actual necessity brought about by the increas- ing rural population of the valley. STOCKTON The city of Stockton was laid out by Lieutenant Weber, w4io was connected with the early history of California, and named in honor of Commodore Stock- ton, commander of the naval vessel, the Congress. It was incorporated in 1852 and was reincorporated un- der the Free Holders' Charter in 1889. It is located upon the San Joaquin river and has been an impor- CALIFORNIA HISTORY 305 tant trading point, where rail and water meet. It is the location of many great manufacturing plants. The most noted being the manufacture of combined harvesters and the tractor. SAN JOSE The city of San Jose was founded by Governor Neve in 1777 with fifteen families in a pueblo called Guadalupe. It was originally incorporated in 1850 and again under the Free Holders' Charter in 1897. It is the central trading place for the prune industry of the Santa Clara Valley. A State Teachers' Col- lege, the oldest institution of its kind in the state, is located here. San Jose has been the home of many pioneer families, and it was called by Bayard Taylor 'The garden spot of the world." SANTA BARBARA The presidio of Santa Barbara was established April 21, 1782, by Governor Neve, and Padre Junipero Serra founded the Santa Barbara Mission on Decem- ber 4, 1786. When the Spaniards first came to the Santa Barbara coast they found the Indians were more intelligent than the average California tribes and so it was that when the mission was established and Fathers Antonio Paterna and Cristoval Bramos were left in charge they soon gathered about them a group of natives that made a prosperous settlement. 306 CALIFORNIA HISTORY The permanent presidio was completed in 1793, but it was not until 1797 that the church was finally in good order. Around the mission buildings clustered the adobe dwellings with their picturesque red tile roofs and during the Spanish and Mexican era the days were happy and carefree. With the coming of the Americans and the secularization of the missions the town took on a more commercial aspect. The town was incorporated by the first legislature of Cali- fornia in 1850. The natural advantages of climate and soil, the good harbor and splendid location of Santa Barbara has caused its growth. It is regarded as an ideal spot and thousands visit it annually. Its natural beauty and salubrious climate have gained it the title of the ''American Nice." The 1920 census gave the population as 19,441. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 307 APPENDIX PLACES CONNECTED WITH CALIFORNIA HISTORY The Native Sons of the Golden West,* organized July 11, 1876, has an Historic Landmarks Commit- tee in its organization which has been instrumental in marking, preserving and restoring places connect- ed with the early history of California. It has been assisted in this work by the Native Daughterst * THE ORDER OF THE NATIVE SONS OF THE GOLDEN WEST Founded by General A. M. Winn on July 11, 1875, in San Francisco, Cali- fornia, the Order of the Native Sons of the Golden West has grown to a mem- bership of twenty-seven thousand today. The organization is exclusively for men who have been born in California and its aim is to encourage patriotism and advance the best interests of California. A portion of the oath administered to prospective members is, "I will ever be ready to serve my country whether in peace or in war." A few of the things accomplished by the Order are: pur- chased Sutter Fort and the grounds surrounding it at Sacramento and deeded them to the state ; took the lead in the restoration and preservation of Colton Hall, the scene of the first constitutional convention in California ; secured the restoration of the first U. S. Custom House in Monterey ; erected a monument to the memory of General A. M. Winn in Sacramento city cemetery ; secured the necessary legislation by which the largest redwood forest, the big basin of Santa Cruz county, became the property of the state; assisted in the erection of Sloat Monument at Monterey, commemorating the raising of the American flag on California soil ; worked actively and furnished funds for the restoration and preservation of the Missions of San Diego, Santa Ynez, San Antonia de Padua, San Juan Capistrano, San Jose and Sonoma; established fellowships in the University of California for investigation, study and research of the history of the Pacific Coast; took the lead and financed the fight against the Japanese menace which made possible the passage of the recent Alien Land Laws; in conjunction v/ith the Native Daughters has secured homes for about two thou- sand homeless children. t ORDER OF THE NATIVE DAUGHTERS OF THE GOLDEN WEST The Order of the Native Daughters of the Golden West consists of native- born California women. It was founded at Jackson, Amador County, California, on September 11, 1886, by Mrs. Frank Dyer, then Lilly O. Reichling. This or- ganization co-operates with civic, fraternal and community projects for the public welfare and in conjunction with other societies has accomplished numerous works, of which the following are named : establislied Arbor Day on Luther Burbank's birthday; established Mothers' Day as one of the official days of the order; planted many trees ; marked El Camino Real with mission bells in conjunction with other societies; helped preserve the old Spanish missions and marked land- marks connected with the early history of California ; helped extend the study of California history and patriotism and observance of the same in the schools; established college scholarships ; established a Native Daughters' Home and in conjunction with the Native Sons of the Golden West has been instrumental in placing thousands of homeless children in homes. 308 CALIFORNIA HISTORY and other organizations and persons. Travelers in the state today may stop at the landmarks and review something of the past and come to a better under- standing of the history of California. Sutter's Fort. — After several years' work money for the purchase of two blocks in Sacramento where Sutter's Fort stood, was raised by the Native Sons of the Golden West and appropriated by the State Leg- islature for the restoration of Sutter's Fort. The re- stored Sutter's Fort was dedicated in 1893. Marshall's Monument. — Near Coloma in El Do- rado County stands a monument today which marks the spot where James W. Marshall picked up the gold from the tail race of Sutter's mill. This monument was erected in 1887. Custom House. — The Custom House in Monterey, where Commodore John Drake Sloat raised the American flag on July 7, 1846, marking the passing of the Mexican regime and the introduction of Amer- ican rule, has been restored and is a picturesque spot on the west coast. Fort Gunnybags. — A memorial tablet marks the site of Fort Gunnybags, the headquarters of the San Francisco Vigilance Committee of 1856. The build- ing was burned in the fire of 1906, but the tablet was preserved. Franciscan Missions. — Different organizations and persons have undertaken to raise funds for the CALIFORNIA HISTORY 309 restoration and preservation of the California Mis- sions. This work is only partially completed. Commander Montgomery's Landing Place — Commander John B. Montgomery landed in San Francisco at what is now the corner of Montgom- ery and Clay streets. A tablet marks the spot. The words on the tablet are: ''On July 9, 1846, in the early morning in 'the days when the water came up to Montgomery street' Com- mander John B. Montgomery, for whom Montgom- ery street was named, landed near the spot from the U. S. Sloop-of-War 'Portsmouth' to raise the Stars and Stripes on the Plaza, now Portsmouth Square, one block to the west." Broderick and Terry Duel. — A bronze tablet has been placed in San Mateo County just over the San Francisco line, marking the last and one of the most important duels fought in California. It was "an affair of honor" and the participants were United States Senator David C. Broderick and Judge David S. Terry, who met September 13, 1859. Senator Broderick was fatally wounded and died three days later. Bear Flag Party. — A monument has been erected in Sonoma commemorating the Bear Flag Party. DoNNER Party. — Headed by Dr. C. W. Chapman the Donner Monument Committee has erected a mon- ument on the shores of Donner Lake commemorating the heroism of the Donner Party. 310 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Presidio Hill. — A cross made of steel, concrete and tiles from the old mission settlement in San Dieo:o has been built on Presidio Hill, San Diego, in mem- ory of Father Junipero Serra and his work. Gigantic Grapevine. — The grapevine planted in 1861 at the San Gabriel Mission is still growing. Presidios. — The presidios of Santa Barbara, founded 1788; Monterey, founded 1770, and of San Francisco, founded in 1776, but not built until 1792, are still standing. Fort Ross. — The ruins at Fort Ross mark the only Russian settlement made within the borders of Cali- fornia. Captain Sutter bought the equipment from the Russian fort when it was abandoned. Casa Grande. — This was the old adobe ranch home of General Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, the last military governor of California. It is in the Sonoma foothills. Portsmouth Square. — Marks the site in San Francisco where Captain John B. Montgomery raised the American flag on July 9, 1846, taking possession of the town in the name of the United States. There is also a monument in the square to Robert Louis Stevenson. The Prayer Book Cross. — This cross was erected in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, by George W. Childs of Philadelphia, commemorating the first Pro- testant religious service held by Chaplain Fletcher in Drake's party in California near Point Reyes in 1578. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 311 Sherman Rose Tree. — The Gold of Ophir rose tree is in Monterey and is significant of the romance between Senorita Bonifacio, the belle of Monterey, and General W. T. Sherman, who was a young offi- cer in the army stationed at Monterey in the early '50's. CoLTON Hall. — Colton Hall is in Monterey, the first capital of this state. It is there the first consti- tutional convention was held September 1, 1849. Old Theater. — The old adobe is in Monterey and belongs to the state. Sloat Monument. — This monument was erected in Monterey on the Presidio Reservation as a memo- rial to Rear-Admiral John Drake Sloat, who took possession of California for the United States July 7, 1846. Father Junipero Serra's Monument. — Erected in Monterey by Mrs. Jane L. Stanford. The cross marks the spot where Junipero Serra landed and the tree under which he held the service. El Cam I no Real. — This is the Spanish name for the King's Highway or the Royal Road which joined the twenty-one missions, four presidios and three pueblos from San Diego to Sonoma in the early days. The original highway is now in the system of state highways of the state. The road is marked by four hundred Mission Bell guide posts which were erected by El Camino Real Association and given by vari- ous organizations and persons. 312 CALIFORNIA HISTORY FRANCISCAN MISSIONS OF CALIFORNIA AND WHEN ESTABLISHED Name Location Date San Diego — San Diego County July 16, 1769 San Luis Rey — San Diego County June 13, 1798 San Juan Capistrano — Orange County Nov. 1,' 1776 San Gabriel Arcangel — Los Angeles County Sept. 8, 1771 San Buenaventura — Ventura County Mar. 31, 1782 San Fernando — Los Angeles County S-ept. 8, 1797 Santa Barbara — Santa Barbara County Dec. 4,' 1786 Santa Ynez— Santa Barbara County Sept. 17^ 1804 La Purisima Concepcion — Santa Barbara County -...Dec. 8, 1787 San Luis Obispo — San Luis Obispo County Sept. 1, 1772 San Miguel Arcangel— San Luis Obispo County July 25, 1797 San Antonio de Padua — Monterey County July 14, 1771 La Soledad — Monterey County Oct. 9,' 1791 San Carlos de Monterey (or Carmel Mission) — Mon- terey County June 3, 1770 San Juan Bautista — San Benito County June 24, 1797 Santa Cruz — Santa Cruz County Aug. 28,'. 1791 Santa Clara — Santa Clara County Jan. 18, 1777 San Jose — Alameda County June 11^ 1797 Dolores or San Francisco de Asisis — San Francisco Co. ..Oct. 9,' 1776 San Rafael Arcangel — Marin County Dec. 18, 1817 San Francisco Solano — Sonoma County Aug. 25,' 1823 GOVERNORS OF CALIFORNIA SPANISH GOVERNORS Name . Year Caspar de Portola 1769-71 Felipe de Barri 1771-74 Felipe de Neve , 1774-82 Pedro Pages 1782-90 Jose Romeu 1790-92 Jose Arrillaga 1792-94 Diego de Borica 1794-1800 Jose Arrillaga 1800-14 Jose Arguello 1814-15 Pablo de Sola 1815-22 MEXICAN GOVERNORS Luis Argu-ello 1823-25 Jose Maria Echeandia 1825-31 Manuel Victoria .' 1831-32 Pio Pico Z._', 1832-33 Jose Figueroa 1833-35 CALIFORNIA HISTORY 313 Jose Castro 1835-36 Nicolas Gutierrez (January to May) 1836 Mariano Chico (few months) 1836 Nicolas Gutierrez (few months) '. 1836 Juan B. Alvarado 1836-42 Manuel Micheltorena 1842-45 Pio Pico (February 22 to August 10) 1846 AMERICAN GOVERNORS UNDER MILITARY RULE John D. Sloat July 7, 1846 Robert F. Stockton July 29, 1846 John C. Fremont (for 50 days) Jan. 19, 1847 Steph-en W. Kearny March to May 31, 1847 Richard B. Mason May 31, 1847 Persifor F. Smith Feb. 28, 1849 Bennet Riley April 12, 1849 GOVERNORS OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNIA Peter H. Burnett (Democrat) Dec. 20, 1849 John McDougall (Democrat) Jan. 9, 1851 John Bigler (Democrat) Jan. 8, 1852 John Bigler (Democrat) Jan. 7, 1854 John Neely Johnson (American Party) Jan. 9, 1856 John B. W-eller (Democrat) Jan. 8, 1858 Milton S. Latham (Democrat) Jan. 9, 1860 John G. Downey (Democrat) Jan. 14, 1860 Leland Stanford (Republican) Jan. 10, 1862 Frederick F. Low (Union Party) Dec. 10, 1863 Henry H. Haight (Democrat) Dec. 5, 1867 Newton Booth (Republican) Dec. 8, 1871 Romualdo Pacheco (Republican) Feb. 27, 1875 William Irwin (Democrat) Dec. 9, 1875 George C. Perkins (Republican) Jan. 8, 1880 George Stoneman (Democrat) Jan. 10, 1883 Washington Bartlett (Democrat) Jan. 8, 1887 Robert W. Waterman (Republican) Sept. 13, 1887 H. H. Markham (Republican) Jan. 8, 1891 James H. Budd (Democrat) Jan. 11, 1895 Henry T. Gage (Republican) Jan. 4, 1899 George C. Pardee (Republican) Jan. 7, 1903 James N. Gillett (Republican) Jan. 9, 1907 Hiram Johnson (Republican) Jan. 3, 1911 William D. Steph-ens 1917.. 314 CALIFORNIA HISTORY AREAS, POPULATION, AND COUNTY SEATS OF CALIFORNIA COUNTIES „ ^ Land Area in Population Population „ 4. c * County Square Miles in 1910 in 1920 County Seat Alameda 732 246,131 344,177 Oakland Alpine 776 309 243 Markleeville Amador 601 9,086 7,793 Jackson Butte 1,698 27,301 30,030 Oroville Calaveras 1,027 9,171 6,183 San Andreas Colusa 1,140 7,732 9,290 Colusa Contra Costa 714 31,674 53,889 Martinez Del Norte 1,024 2,417 2,759 Crescent City Eldorado 1,737 7,492 6,426 Placerville Fresno 5,950 75,657 128,779 Fresno Glenn 1,337 7,172 11,853 Willows Humboldt 3,575 33,857 37,413 Eureka Imperial 4,089 13,591 43,453 El Centro Inyo 9,991 6,974 7,031 Independence Kern 8,003 37,715 54,843 Bakersfield Kings 1,159 16,230 22,031 Hanford Lake 1,238 5,526 5,402 Lakeport Lass-en 4,531 4,802 8,507 Susanville Los Angeles 4,115 504,131 936,455 Los Angeles Madera 2,112 8,368 12,203 Madera Marin 529 25,114 27,342 San Rafael Mariposa 1,463 3,956 2,775 Mariposa Mendocino 3,539 23,929 24,116 Ukiah Merced 1,995 15,148 24,579 Merced Modoc 3,823 6.191 5,425 Alturas Mono 3,030 2,042 960 Bridgeport Monterey 3,330 24,146 27,980 Salinas Napa 783 19,800 20,678 Napa Nevada 974 14,955 10,850 Nevada City Orange 795 34,436 61,375 Santa Ana Placer 1,411 18,237 18.584 Auburn Plumas 2,593 5,259 5,681 Quincy Riverside 7,223 34,696 50,297 Riverside Sacramento 983 67,806 91.029 Sacramento San Benito 1,392 8,041 8,995 Hollister San Bernardino ....20,175 56,706 73,401 San Bernardino San Diego 4,221 61,665 112,248 San Diego San Francisco 42 416.912 506,676 San Francisco San Joaquin 1,448 50,731 79,905 Stockton San Luis Obispo.... 3,334 19,383 21,893 San Luis Obispo San Mateo 447 26,585 36,781 Redwood City Santa Barbara 2,740 27,738 41,097 Santa Barbara Santa Clara 1,328 83,539 100,676 San Jose Santa Cruz 435 26,140 26,269 Santa Cruz Shasta 3,858 . 18,920 13,361 Redding CALIFORNIA HISTORY 315 ^ Land Area in Population County Square Miles in 1910 Skrra 923 4,098 Siskiyou 6,256 18,801 Solano 822 27,559 Sonoma 1,582 48,394 Stanislaus 1,450 22,522 Sutter 608 6,328 Tehama 2,925 11,401 Trinity 3,096 3,301 Tulare 4,856 35,440 Tuolumne 2,190 9,979 Ventura 1,858 18,347 Yolo 1,014 13,926 Yuba 632 10,042 Population in 1920 County Se: 1,783 Downieville 18,545 Yreka 40,602 Fairfield 52,090 Santa Rosa 43,557 Modesto 10,115 Yuba City 12.882 Red Bluff 2,551 Weaverville 59.031 Visalia 7,768 Sonora 28,724 V-entura 17,105 Woodland 10,375 Marysville INCORPORATED PLACES HAVING 2500 OR MORE PEOPLE IN 1920 City or Town County Population in 1910 Alameda Alameda ^c'^o? Alhambra Los Angeles 5,021 Anaheim Orange .o'SoS Bakersfield Kern 12,727 Benicia Solano 3.5. Berkeley Alam-eda 40,434 Brawley Imperial 881 Burbank Los Angeles 540 Burlingame San Mateo 1,565 Calexico Imperial 797 Chico Coalinga Butte 3,750 Fresno 4,199 Colton San Bernardino 3,980 Corona Coronado Daly City San Mateo Dinuba Tulare Dunsmuir Siskiyou . East San Diego San Diego El Centro Imperial ... Eureka Humboldt Fort Bragg Mendocino Riverside : 3,540 San Diego 1,477 970 1,719 4,500 1,610 11,845 2.408 Fresno Fresno 24,892 Fullerton Orange 1,725 Gilroy Santa Clara 2,437 Glendale Los Angeles 2,746 Grass Valley Nevada 4,520 Hanford Kings 4,829 Population in 1920 28,806 9,096 5,526 18,638 2.693 56,036 5,389 2,913 4,107 6.223 9,339 2.934 4,282 4,129 3,289 3,779 3,400 2,528 4,148 5,464 12,923 2,616 45.086 4.415 2,862 13.536 4.006 5,888 316 CALIFORNIA HISTORY City or Town County TinT "^'^19^ Hayward Alameda 2,746 3,487 Hollister ^ San Benito 2,308 2.781 Huntington Park Los Angeles 1,299 4,513 Inglewood „ Los Angeles 1,536 3,286 Lindsay Tulare 1,814 2,576 Lodi San Joaquin 2,697 4,850 Long Beach ^ Los Angeles 17,809 55,593 Los Angeles Los Angeles 319,198 576,673 Madera Madera 2,404 3,444 Martinez Contra Costa 2,115 3,858 Marysville Yuba 5,430 5,461 Merced Merced 3,102 3,974 Mill Valley Marin 2,551 2,554 Modesto Stanislaus 4,034 9,241 Monrovia Los Angeles 3,576 5,480 Monterey Monterey 4,923 5,479 Monterey Park Los Angeles 4,108 Napa Napa 5,791 6,757 National City San Diego 1,733 3,116 Needles San Bernardino 3,067 2,807 Oakland Alameda 150,174 216,261 Ontario San Bernardino 4,274 7,280 Orange Orange 2,920 4,884 Oroville Butte 3,859 3,340 Oxnard .Ventura 2,555 4,417 Pacific Grove Monterey 2,384 2.974 Palo Alto Santa Clara 4,486 5,900 Pasadena Los Angeles 30,291 45,354 Petaluma Sonoma 5,880 6,226 Piedmont Alameda 1,719 4,282 Pittsburg Contra Costa 2,372 4,715 Pomona Los Angeles 10,207 13,505 Porterville Tulare 2,696 4,097 Red Bluff Tehama 3,530 3,104 Redding Shasta 3,572 2,962 Redlands San Bernardino 10,449 9,571 Redondo B-each Los Angeles 2.935 4,913 Redwood City San Mateo 2,442 4,020 Richmond Contra Costa 6,802 16,843 Riverside Riverside 15,212 19,341 Roseville Placer 2,608 4.477 Sacramento Sacramento 44.696 65.908 Salinas Monterey 3.736 4.308 San Bernardino San Bernardino 12,779 18.721 San Diego San Diego 39,578 74.683 San Fernando Los Angeles ^ 2,134 3,204 San Francisco San Francisco 416,912 506,676 San Gabriel Los Angeles 2,640 CALIFORNIA HISTORY 317 _. _ ^ Population Population City or Town County in 1910 in 1920 San Jose Santa Clara 28,946 39.642 San Leandro Alameda 3,471 5,703 San Luis Obispo San Luis Obispo 5,157 5,895 San Mateo San Mateo 4,384 5,979 San Rafael Marin 5,934 5,512 Sanger Fresno 2,578 Santa Ana Orange 8,429 15,485 Santa Barbara Santa Barbara 11,659 19,441 Santa Clara ~ Santa Clara 4,348 5,220 Santa Cruz Santa Cruz 11,146 10,917 Santa Maria Santa Barbara 2,260 3,943 Santa Monica ~ Los Angeles 7,847 15,252 Santa Paula Ventura 2,216 3,967 Santa Rosa Sonoma 7,817 8,758 Sausalito Marin 2,383 2,790 Selma Fresno 1,750 3,158 South Pasadena Los Angeles 4,649 7,652 S. San Francisco San Mateo 1,989 4,411 Stockton San Joaquin 23,253 40,296 Taft Kern 300 3,317 Tulare Tulare 2,758 3,539 Turlock Stanislaus 1,573 3,394 Upland San Bernardino 2,384 2,912 Vallejo Solano 11,340 21,107 Venice Los Angeles 3.119 10.385 Ventura Ventura 2,945 4,342 Visalia Tulare 4,550 5,753 Watsonville Santa Cruz 4,446 5,013 Watts Los Angeles 1,922 4,529 Whittier Los Angeles 4,550 7,997 Woodland Yolo 3,187 4.147 POPULATION OF THE STATE OF CALIFORNL\ BY DECADES 1850 92.597 1860 379,994 1870 560,247 1880 864,694 1890 1,208,130 1900 1,485,053 1910 2,377,549 1920 3,426,861 318 CALIFORNIA HISTORY NAMES OF CALIFORNIA PLACES, WITH SPANISH, INDIAN AND ENGLISH DERIVATIONS The study of the names apphed to CaHfornia places is of very great interest. This is due partly to the fact that the Spanish names when translated appear so appropriate and so fitting that it is a delight to discover the meaning hidden in the Spanish words. The pronunciation of these Spanish words has been more or less difficult for the tourists or the new set- tler, and there is printed therefore a key for pronun- ciation and quite a complete list of California names with the meaning of the Indian and Spanish terms. A KEY FOR PRONOUNCING WORDS OF SPANISH DERIVATION give a the sound of ah; a-ni-an' give e the sound of ay; Ca-bri'llo, Rodriguez, Ro-dre'ges give i the sound of ee; ^1^^.^' 5^-1^-^'^'^ . . , , r , Ca-rrillo give J the sound of h; Co-lo'ma give o the sound of oh; Da'ri-en give u the sound of oo; Di-os' h is silent; Ji^^'^^' ^/''^^t-day, holiday _ ^ ,, . 1 1 1M 1 1-1 .1 ualvez, Jose, gal veth, ho-say 11 IS sounded like lya, like the Ga-vi-lan' 11 in million; Kearny, Kar'ny n is sounded like ny in lanyard; La Paz hua is sounded like wa in water. Las-u-en ,_ .. „ -, • Los Angeles, los ang hal-ais neophyte, na'6-flte, baptized In- Pronouncing vocabulary of dian difficult names. Ne-ve, Fe-li"pe de al-cal'de, mayor, magistrate pa'dres, fathers CALIFORNIA HISTORY 319 plaza, pla'sa, public square Point Reyes, Re'yes Por-to-la', Gas'par de pueblo, pwab'lo, town Re-za'nof ro-de'o, round-up of cattle for branding and separating San Fran-cis'co San Joaquin, san hoa-keen' San Jose, san ho-say' San Pas-qual' Serra, Junipero, sa'ra, hoo-ne- pa-ro Sutter, soo'ter Vallejo, Mariano, val-ya'ho, ma- ri-a'no vigilantes, vi-hi-lan'tes, members of vigilance committee Vizcaino, Sebastian, ves-ka-e'no, se-bas-fi-an' Yerba Buena, yer'ba bwa'na; a fragrant plant; the early name of San Francisco CALIFORNIA NAMES Acampo — pasture land on com- mons. Agricola — a farmer. Agua Caliente — hot water, Agua Caiendo — falling water. Agua Dulce — sweet water. Agua Hedionda — bad smelling water, Agua Tibia — warm water, Agua Puerca — water for pigs. Alameda — a walk with trees. Alamillo, Alimitos — little pop- lars. Alamos Muchos — many poplars or cottonwoods. Albion — English name given California by Drake; some say white. Albuquerque — white oak. Alcatraz — pelican. Alisos — alders. Almaden — mine. Alpine — is high land, where it snows. Alta — high, Altamont — high mountain, Altaville — high town. Alturas — the heavens. Alvarado — a surname, meaning white road. Alviso — the view. Amador — surname, meaning lover. Amaragosa — (river) has bitter water. American — (river) had a settle- ment of Americanos or people from U. S. Anaheim — Anna's home. Anahuac — everlasting water. Antelope Valley— had antelope there. Anita — little Anna. Antioch — ancient city. Arcade — row of arches. Arena — sand. Arrowhead Springs— has mark resembling arrowhead on nearby mountains. Arroyo Burro — jackass creek. Arroyo Del Norte— north creek. Arroyo Grande — big creek. Arroyo Media — middle creek. Artesia — from Artios, France, where artesian wells were first discovered. 320 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Arroyo Seco — dry creek. Asuncion, assencion. Atascadero — miry place. Auburn — surname, meaning brown; also an ancient city. Azusa — above; some say spell- ed Asusa. Baden — bath. Baja — lower. Bakersfield — named after Baker,, who founded the town. Baldy (Mt.) — bare or bald on top. Ballena (Mt. ) — looks lik e a whale. Bangor — high choir. Banning — a surname. Banner — was the banner mining camp. Barro — clay. Batavia — low plain. Bear Valley — many bears in valley. Bellota — acorns. Bella Vista — beautiful view. Belmont — surname, meaning beautiful mountain. Benedict — surname, meaning blessed. Benicia — named after wife of General Vallejo. Berenda — antelope (in Merced County a missp-elling for Berrendo). Berkeley — brook meadow, named after Bishop Berkel-ey, who wrote famous poem "West- ward the Star of Empire Takes Its Way." Berlin — uncultivated land. Bernard and Bernardino — Ber- nard. Blanco — white. Boca — mouth. Bodega — was a captain, means pocket. Bolinas — ropes. Bonita — pretty. Brea — named from oil residue. Brooklyn — brook pool. Buena Ventura — good luck. Buena Vista — good view. Butte — lone mountain. Cabrillo (Cape) — named after discoverer. Cache — hiding place for goods. Cajon — big box or valley shut in by hills. Calaveras — river of skulls. Caliente — hot. Cambria — name for Wales, meaning cymbri country. Campo — camp. Campo Seco — dry camp. Canada — mountain valley. Canada de los Coches — pig val- ley. Canada de los Noques — tan pit valley. Canada Verde — green valley. Canon (Spanish), Canyon (In- dian) — deep valley with steep sides. Carissa for Carrizo — a reed grass. Carlsbad — Charles' bath. Carmelo, Carmelito — a flower. Carmen — a country house. Camadero — said to mean a sh-eep owner. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 321 Carneros — sheep; word Borego is the Cahfornia word for sheep. Carpentaria — Carpenter's shop. Casa Grande — big house. Castroville — after Gen. Castro. Cayucas — fishing boat. Cazadero — hunting place. Centinela — a sentinel. Ceres — goddess of grain. Cerros — hills. Cerritos — little hills; also writ- ten Cerillos. Cerro Gordo — thick hill. Chico — little; Gov. Chico. Chileno — from Chili. Chine — Chinaman or simpleton. Chocolate — brown. Chula Vista — pretty view. Cienega — swamp; wrongly spell- •ed Scenega in Ventura. Cimarron — lost river. Cisco — broken coal. Cloverdale (Valley) — much burr clover. Coahuilla or Kaweah — seceders; Indians. Colorado — red. Colton — was a railroad man; coal town. Compton — count's town; a sur- name. Concepcion — honors the Immac- ulate Conception. Concord — dwell togetlier in har- mony. Conejo — rabbit. Contra Costa — opposite coast. Copperopolis — copper city; has copper mines. Cordero — lamb. Coronado — a surname; crowned. Corralitos — little corral or cat- tle pen. Corte Madera — woody a rd. Coyote — wolf. Crescent City — built on a cres- cent-shaped bay. Cruz, Cruces — crosses. Cucamonga — nun of evil repute. Cuyamaca — it rains behind. Cypress Point — is covered with cypress. Death Valley — so-called for the man}' who died in crossing the valley. Dehesa — pasture ground. Del Mar — of the sea. Del Norte — of the north. Delta— the Greek letter D. De Luz — a surname; of light. Descanso — place of rest. Diablo — Devil's Mountain. Diego, Dieguito — James. Dirigo — a straight drive. Dolores — a woman's n a m e, meaning sorrowful. Dos Cabezas — two heads. Dos Palmas — two palms. Dos Pueblos— two villages. Dos Valles — two valleys. Downieville — After Major Dow- nie, who hrst found gold there. Downey — named after Governor Downey; a hilly slope. Drake's Bay — after Sir Francis Drake. Duarte — a surname. Dulzura — sweetness. El Capitan — the captain. 322 CALIFORNIA HISTORY El Casco — p lace of the wine- cask. El Cajon — the box, Eldorado — land of gold. El Molino — the mill. El Monte — the thicket. El Nido — the nest, meaning res- idence. El Paso — the pass. El Rite — where a ceremony is performed. El Sausal — willow grove. Elsinore — said to be taken from "Hamlet." Encinal — oak woods. Encinitas — little oaks. Encino — oak. Ensenada — bay. Escondido — hidden. Esparto — feather grass. Esperanza — hope. Espiritu Santo— holy spirit. Estero — a salt marsh. Estrella — star. Etna — mountain of fire. Eureka — I have found it (the motto of the state of Cali- fornia). Farallones — needles or small- pointed islands in the sea. Feliz — happy. Floras, Florin — flowers. Folsom — a surname. Fresno — the ash tree. Gavilan — sparrow hawk. Gallinas — chickens. Garcia — was an early settler. Garrote — strangling with an iron collar. Garvanza — pea blossom or wild sweet pea. The word maj^ be corrupt from garbanzo (chick-pea). Gaviota — gull. Goleta — schooner. Gordo — thick or fat. Gonzales — a surname. Graciosa — gracious. Granada — the pomegranate. Grantville — big town; named after Grant. Greenwich — green town. Guadalupe — river wolf. Gua — Indian for house by the water. Guaji — house of trees. Guajome — house by frog pond. Guatay — big house. Guajito — little house. Harford — where a hare can ford a stream. Healdsburg — H e a 1 d's town; healthy town. Hermosa, Hermosillo — beautiful. Hetch Hetchy — name of a grass the Indians used for food. Hollister — surname, meaning one who lives by the holly trees. Honda — deep. Hornitos — little oven. Hoya or JoUa — hole. Huacupen — warm house. Hueneme — house by the sea. Huron — hair. Ilpa (Mts.) — have acacias on them. Indio — Indian. Inez or Ynez — Agnes. Isleta — little island. CALIFORNIA HISTORY 323 Ja— water (Dicgueno language). Jacumba — hut by the water. Jacupin — warm water. Jamacha — scummy water, or the mock orange. Jamul — antelope water. Janal — mother of waters. Japatul — water baskets. Jemet — acorn valley. Joaquin — name of legendary fa- ther of the Virgin. Jolon — snow. Jornado Del Muerto — journey ot death. Juan — John. Juana — Jane. Juarez — a surname. Kern — was an explorer. La— the. La Brea — the asphalt. La Grulla — sand hill crane. Laguna — lake. La Jolla — is a word of doubtful origin; some say it means the jewel, others the hollow. La Junta — the junction. La Mesa — the table. La Pateira — the duck pond. La Paz — peace. La Playa — the beach. La Presa — the dam. La Porte — the port. La Punta — the point or cape. Las Animas — the ringing bells. Las Flores — the flowers. Las Posas — the wells. Las Positas y Calera — the springs and the lim-e-kiln. Las Vegas — the meadows. Leon — lion. Lerdo — slow. Lalgas — place of thorns. Lobos — wolves. Lodi — from a race horse of that name._ Loma — hill. Lorenzo — Lawrence. Los Alamos — the poplars. Los Angeles — the angels. Los Banos — the baths. Los Berros — the water cresses. Los Coches — the pigs. Los Coronades — tonsured priests. Los Cueros — the hides. Los Feliz — the lucky. Los Gatos — the cats. Los Medanos — the sand banks on the seashore. Los Nietos— the grandsons. Los Osos — the bears. Los Prietos — the dark place. Los Robles — the oaks. Lugo — man's name; a kind of linen. Madera — wood. Madrone — strawberry tree. Maneadero— hobbling ground for hors-es. Manzanita — little apple; a moun- tain shrub. Mare — sea. Marin — was an Indian chief. Mariposa — "butterfly" lilies. Martinez — Martin; a surname. Mataquaquat — red earth. Mendocino — little liar; a sur- name. Menifee— a surname. Merced — mercy. Mesa Grande — big table land. 324 CALIFORNIA HISTORY Mesilla— little flat-topped hill. Milpitas — little garden. Milquatay — big foot valley. Mitaraqui — crooked land. Modesto — modest. Modoc Indians — strangers. Mojave or Mohave — three moun- tains; Indian tribe by that name also. Mohave is In- dian. Mojave is Spanish. Indian spelling preferred. Montecito — little hill or wood. Montara — mountain of earth. Mono — monkey. Monte Diablo — devil's mountain. Montecito, Monticello — little hill. Monterey — mountain king. Monserrate — a surname; notch- ed mountain. Moreno — brown. Morro — large, bare rock. Napa — a brave Indian tribe wiped out by smallpox in 1838. Nevada — white with snow. Nogales — native California wal- nut. Novato, Nuevo — new. Olancha — large waves. Oleta — oily. Olla — jar in which to hold wa- ter. Oro Grande — big gold. Oro Fino — fine gold. Oroville — gold town. Otay — big. Pacheco — a surname. Paguay — meeting of the valleys. Pajaro — bird. Pala — water. Palo Alto — tall wood. Palos Verdes — green sticks. Pasadena — crown of the valley. Paso Robles — pass of oaks. Pescadero — fishing place. Petaluma — low hills. Pinole — grains or seeds parched and ground. Pinos — pines. Pinon — pine nut. Pismo — said to be Indian, place of fish. Piano — plain. Plaza — a public scjuare. Plumas — feathers. Pomona — goddess of fruits. Posa — a spring or a passing bell. Potrero — pasture ground. Presidio — garrison or peniten- tiary. Puente — bridge. Pujol — a surname. Punta Arenas — point of sands. Purissima — most pure. Ranchito — little farm. Redondo — round. Reyes — kings. Rincon — inside corner. Rio Grande — big river. Rio Seco — dry river. Rio Vista — river view. Sacramento — in honor of the Holy Sacrament. Sal— salt. Salazar — sally. Salida — a start. Salinas — salty. San, Santa, Santo — Spanish for saint. Many places in Cali- ifornia are named in honor CALIFORNIA HISTORY 325 of the saints: a few places were discovered or founded on the day of the saint whose name they bear. Santa Ana— St. Anna was the mother of the Virgin and signifies "gracious." San Pasqual — holy passover. San Juan Capistrano— St. John Capistrano. San Luis Obispo — Saint Louis, the Bishop of Toulouse. Santa Fe— holy faith. San Mateo — St. Matthew. Saratoga — place of water in rocks. Sausalito— little willow grove. Shasta — men; Indians; some- times said to m-ean stone house. Sierra — a saw. Sierra Madre — mountains of the mother (of Christ). Sierra Nevada — mountains white with snow. Sierra Nevada — Saw-tooth. Solana — sunny. Solano — east wind. Soledad — solitary. Soto — a grove. Stanislaus — a Spanish Christian name. Sumi — sunken. Suisun — big expanse. Sur — south. Tahoe — big wat-cr. Tamalpais — from two Indian words. tamal (bay), pais (mountain). Teaco — black. Tehama — low land. Tehachapi — an .Indian word, may be derived from tribal name. Tejon — badger. Temecula — the rising sun. Temescal — sweat house. Tia Juana — Aunt Jane. Tf of In- dian derivation it means "by the sea." Toro— a bull. Trabuco — tumbled about. Tres Pinos — three pines. Trinidad — Trinity. Tulare — place of tules or rushes. Tuolumne — from Indian word "talmalaume". meaning clus- ter of stone wigwams. Ukiah — south valley. VacavlUe — cow town, or from a family named Vaca. Valle Bautista— Baptist Valley. Vallejo — little valley; named af- ter G-eneral Vallejo. Vega — meadow. Ventura — contraction of San Buenaventura, which means good chance. Vina — a vineyard. Visalia — -look-out place.. Volcrn — volcano. Wilmington — Williams' town. Verba Buena — a fragrant plant. Yolo — tules or rushes. Yreka — cave mountain. Yo Semite — grizzly bear. Yuba — probably taken from uva, Spanish word for grapes. 326 INDEX Admission California into the Union, 201 Almonds. 240 American flag in California, 201 Anza, 51 Anza, first trip, across the desert, 52 Anza, second trip, across the desert to the Bay of San Francisco, 53, 54-57 Anza, locates the site of San Fran- cisco, 57, 58 Aeroplanes in forest service, 270 Arguello. Luis, 79, 85 Arguello, Concepcion, 101 Armistice, 202 r.alboa, 9 Balboa at Darien, 10 Balboa's discovery of the Pacific, 11 Balboa's death, 13 Barrovi's, David P., 220 Bear Flag- Republic, 96 Beale, Edward, 134 Benton, Senator, 117, 123 Berkeley, 302 Bidwell, John, 139, 140, 141, 142, 143, 144 " Bidwell, Annie Kennedy, 142 Booth, Newton, 209 Breen, Patrick, 151 Burnett, Peter H., 205 Budd, Tames H., 210 Burbank, Luther, 240, 243 California, the name. 19 California names, 320 Cabrillo, 20 Cabrillo, discovers Bav of San Diego, 20 Cabrillo's death. 22 Cabeza de Vaca, 23 Cape Mendocino, 184 Carson, Kit, 118, 125 California admitted to the L'nion, 201- 206 Campbell. Fred M., 215 Cereals, 240 Cibola, 23 Civic Center. San Francisco, 282 Chico. 142 Chaflfee and Chamberlain. 181 Conservation. 267, 268, 269 Coronado, 22. 23 Coolbrith. 233 Cortes, 17 Cortes connuers ^lexico. 17. IS Cortes constructs shtjivard. 18 Cortes m?kes final settlement at Santa Cruz (La Paz). 19 Cortes' death, 19 Costanzo. 35 Cotton, 241 County Free Library service. 216 CresDi, 35. 40 Crocker, Charles, 256, 257 Death Vallev. 195. 196. 197 Discovery of the Pacific. 11 Discovery of Lower California. 18 Discovery of the Bay of San Diego, 20 Discoverv of the Port of Los Ange- les, 284 Discovery of the Bay of Monterey, 26 Discovery of Drake's Bay, 30 Discovery of the Bay of San Fran- cisco, 41, 42 Discovery of gold. 160 Discovery of Trinitv Bav (Hum.boklt), 184 Donner Partv. 149-159 Drake, Sir Francis. 28 Drake, holds first Proti-stant reliijious service. 31 Drake's vovage around tlie v>or!.'I, 29. 30. 31 Drake's death, 32 Eel River. 190 Eureka, 193 Fages, 36 Ferrelo, 22 'First vovage around the world, 16 First white man to land on California soil, 18 First settlement at San Diego, S6, 37 First American overland joutney. 112 First newspaper in California, 224 First railroad in California, 255 Founding of City of Los Angeles, 40, 282 Founding of San Francisco, 5S, 272 Founding of Oakland. 290 Founding of San Diego. 294 Founding of Sacramento, 296 Founding of Long Beach. 300 Founding of Berkeley, 302 Founding of Pasadena. 303 Founding of Fresno, 304 Founding of Stockton, 304 Founding of San Jose. 305 Founding of Santa Barbara. 305, 306 Foltz, Clara Shortridge, 211 Forty-nine, 180 Fort Ross, 98, 99 Fremont. Tohn Charles, 96. 116. 117. 119. 121, 123, 126, 127, 128, 130, 131. 133, 136, 138, 139. Fremont. Jessie Benton, 117, 137 Fresno, 304 Galvez, 33. 35 Cilroy. 128 _ Gillespie. Lieutenant Archibald, 128. 134 Cillett. James N., 210 Cillis. J." L., 216 Gold. 160. 182. 239 Gold at San Fernando, 161 Gold in South Fork American River, 165 Golden Era. 224 Golden G^te Park. 277 Grapes, 241 Gregg, Dr. Josiah, 184 Hangtown. 177 Harte, Bret, 226. 227 Hoover, Herbert, 222 INDEX 327 Hopkins, Mark, 255 Horton, A. E., 295 Humboldt Bay, 185, 189, 192 Hunting-ton, Collis P., 255 Huntington, Henry E., 287 Hyatt, Edward, 215 Ide, William B., 130, 131 Imperial Valley, 260-265 Indians, 59 Indians as the Spanish found them, 60, 66 Indians under Mission control, 66-69 Indians under Mexican government, 69, 70, 71, 12, 75, 90, 91 Indians, John Bidwell's treatment of 143 Indian reservations, 75, 11 Irrigation. 45, 260 Isles of the Amazons, 18 James, George \N'harton, 235 jiminez, 18 Johnson, Hiram W., 210, 211 Jordan, David Starr, 220 Tudah, Theodore, 255 Kearny, 133, 134, 136 Kearny, Dennis, 209 King Bill, 218 King, Thomas Starr, 243 La Paz, 18, 19 Landmarks, 307 Lasuen, 47, 49 Lassen, Peter, 145-148 Leland Stanford University, 222 Literature, 223 Low, Frederick F., 208 Los Angeles aqueduct, 287 Long Beach, 300, 301 Magellan, 14 Magellan discovers the Straits, 15 Magellan names the I'acific, 15 Magellan's death, 16 Manly, William Lewis, 195 Marshall, James W.. lol, 170 171, 173. 174, 175 Markham. Edwin, 233 Marcos, Friar, 24 Mason, Richard B., 207 Mexican Governors, 85 Arguello, 79, 85 Echeandia, 85, 87-89 Victoria, 85, 89 Castro. 85, 93, 96 Figueroa. 85, 90, 91, 92 Pico, 85 Guiterez, 85 Chico, 85, 93 Alvarado, 85, 94, 95 Micheltorena, 85, 95, 96 Pico, 85, 96, 97 Mining, 170, 171, 173, 174, 175 Mighels, Ella Sterling, 235 Miller, Joaquin, 225, 227, 228 ^'>9 231 Mission Dolores, 272 Muir, John, 235 ]\luir Woods, 269 New Constitution, 209-215 National Parks. 267 Native Daughters of the Golden West, 307 Native Sons of the Golden West, 307 Oakland, 290 Oil, 242, 245 Ortega, 41, 42 Overland journeys, 112, 115, 149, 195 Overland Monthly, 227 Pacific Railroad Bill, 256 Panama Canal, 11 Panama Pacific International Exposi- tion, 280 Palou, 35, 224 Pardee, George C, 210 Pasadena, 303 I'erkins, George C, 209 I'elton, John C, 213 Phelan, James D., 2Z1 Poinsetta named, 117 Pony Express, 253 I'ortola, ZZ ]*ortola at San Diego. 35. 36 Portola in search of Monterey Bav. 37-42 Portola^ at Montara, 41 Portola's men discover Bay of San Francisco, 41, 42 Port Los Angeles, 284, 290 Prairie schooner, 252 Private schools, 213, 222 Public schools, 213 Railroad commission, 211 Railroads. Pacific, 256 Reed and Snyder tragedy, 153 Rezanof, 99, 100, 101 Rice, 241 Rolph, James. Jr., administration. 279 Romantic California, 102-111 Fiestas, 108 Clothes, 105 Hospitality, 106 Weddings, 110 Russians in California, 94, 98, 99, 100. 101 Russian River, 98 Sacramento, 296 Salton Sea, 262, 263 San Carlos, 35, 51 San Diego, 294 San Jose, 305 Santa Barbara. 305 San Francisco, 272, 273, 277 Seal of California, 204 Save the redwoods, 269 Serra, 35 Serra holds first religious service, 36 Serra and the Missions, 44, 45, 46 Serra's death, 47 Seven Cities of Cibola, 23 Shortridge, Samuel M., 211, 212 328 INDEX Smith, Je.lediah, Hi, ll.>, 114 Spanish governors — Portola, 78 Barri, 78, 81 Neve, 78 Fages, 79-82 Uomeu, 79-82 IJoiica, 79 ArrilaRa, 79. 83 Sola, 79, 83. 84. 86 Sloat. 96. 133 Straits of Anian, 20 Stanford. Leland. 208, 256 Sutter, 94. 122. 159. 165, 167 Stockton, Commodore R. P.. 135 Swett. John. 214, 215, 218 Sutro, Adolph, l}!! Teachers' Colleges. 215, 218 Teachers' Pension Law. 211 Townsend-^Iurphv partv, 157 Twain. :\rark, 223 Travel to California. 252 Transportation, 252-259 nioa, 19 L'niversity of California. 219 I'niversitv of California. Southern P.ranch. 220 L'niversity of Santa Clara. Ill Vaca. 23 Vallejo. 96, 131 Vigilantes. 275 Vines. 241 Vizcaino, 25 Vizcaino in search of pearls. 25, 26 Walker. William. 295 Wagner. ^ladge Morris. 234 Walter. Carrie Stevens, 239 War with Mexico, 202 White, Stephen Mallory, 246 251 \N'oman's suffrage, 210 Wilhur. Rav. Ill Wood. Will C, 218 War service. 244 Verba IJuena, 111, 111, 275 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS I II i 00171387164 %