! ;i i! : ; *l UNCEN50RED LETTERS OF A CANTEEN GIRL Class Book _ 'J&- GopyiightN Afe> COPYRkGHT DEPOSIT. THE T NCENSORED LETTERS OF A CANTEEN GIRL NEW YORK HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY 1920 u Copyright, 1920 BY HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY w / AUG 12 1920 ©CU576043 TO PAT GATTS BRADY SNOW NEDDY BILL NICK HARRY JERRY and THE REST THIS BOOK is DEDICATED CONTENTS PAGE CHAPTER I BOURMONT Company A i CHAPTER II GONCOURT The Doughboys 59 CHAPTER III Rattentout The Front 87 CHAPTER IV GONDRECOURT The Artillery 112 CHAPTER V Abainville The Engineers 132 CHAPTER VI Mauvages The Ordnance 167 CHAPTER VII Verdun The French 214 CHAPTER VIII CONFLANS Pioneers, M. P.'s and Others 237 FOREWORD ToM. D. M. andM. H. M: My dears , These letters were all written for you; scratched down on odds and ends of writing paper, in a rare spare moment at the canteen; at night, at my billet, by candle-light; in the mornings, perched in front of Madame's fire-place with my toes tucked up on an orna- mental chaufrette foot-warmer. Why were they never sent? Simply because all letters mailed from France in those days, must of course pass under the eyes of the Censor. And as the Censor was likely to be a young man who sat opposite you at the mess-table, it meant that one mustn't say the things one could, and one couldn't say the things one would. So, after my first fortnight over there I decided to write my letters to you just as I would at home, putting down everything I saw and thought and did, quite brazenly and shame- lessly, and then keep them, — under lock and key if need be, — until I could give them to you in person. Written with the thought of you in my mind, these letters are first of all for you, and after that for whoever they may concern, being a true record of one girl's experience with the A. E. F. in France during the Great War. CHAPTER I BOURMONT Company A Bourmont, France, Nov. 24, 191 7. My village has red roofs. When I first came to France and saw that the villages were two kinds; those with red roofs and those with grey, I prayed le bon Dieu that mine should be a red-roofed one. Heaven was kind. Every little house in town is covered with rose- colored tiles. We came here yesterday from Paris. Our orders, which were delivered to us in great secrecy, read: Report to Mr. T , Divisional Secretary, Bourmont, Haute Marne; then fol- lowed a schedule of trains. That was all we knew except that some one told us that at Bourmont it had rained steadily all fall. "It cleared off for several hours once," concluded our informant. "But that was in the middle of the night when nobody was awake to see." Bourmont is a city set upon a hill, a hill that rises so sharply, so suddenly, that no motor vehicle is allowed to take the straight road up its side, but must follow the roundabout route at the back. Already we have heard tales about our hill; one of them being of a lad belonging to a company of engineers stationed here, who in a spendthrift mood, being disinclined to climb the hill one night after having dined at the cafe at its foot, bribed an old Frenchman with a fifty franc note to wheel him to the summit in a wheel-barrow. The Frenchman, for whose powers one must have great respect, achieved the feat eventually, the spectators agreeing the ride a bar- gain at the price. Two-thirds of the way up the hill on the steep street called gran- diosely Le Faubourg de France we have our billet, at the home of 2 BOURMONT Monsieur and Madame Chaput. These are an adorable old couple; Madame a stately yet lovably gentle soul, Monsieur le Command- ant, a veteran of the Franco-Prussian War and member of the Legion oVHonneur. His wonderful old uniforms with their scarlet trousers and gold epaulets rub elbows with my whipcord in the wardrobe. Outside, the Maison Chaput resembles all the other houses which, built one adjoining another, present a solid grey plaster front on each side of the street. Like all the rest it has two doors, one opening into the house and one into the stable, and like every other house on the street the doors bear little boards with the billeting capacity of house and stable stenciled on them, so many Homines, so many Off. (for Officiers). It is told how one lad after walking the length of the street exclaimed; "Gee! Looks as if this were Dippyville. There's one or two off in every house!" Another boy gazing ruefully at the sign on his billet door, groaned; "Twelve homes! Why, there ain't one there!" One stable door nearby wears the legend in large scrawling let- ters; "Sherman was right." At first the owner was furious at this defacement of his property, but when someone explained the sig- nificance of the words to him, he became mollified and even took a pride in them. "Where are you stopping?" asks one boy of another. "Me? Oh, at the Hotel de Barn, four manure-heaps straight ahead and two to the right." The distinguishing feature of the Maison Chaput is the corner- stone. This shows as a white stone tablet at one side of the door. On it is carved "Laid by the hand of Emil Chaput, aged one year. Anno. 1842." It is the same Emil Chaput who with his tiny baby hand "laid" the corner-stone who is now our genial host. "It is droll," said Madame; "When strangers come to town they must always stop and read the corner-stone. They think the tablet is placed there to mark the birthplace of some famous man." The Gendarme and I, — Madame has christened G my com- COMPANY A 3 panion the Gendarme on account of her vigorous brisk bearing, — live in the Salle des Assiettes, at least that is what I have named it, for the walls of the room which evidently in more pretentious days served as a salle a manger, are literally covered with the most beautiful old plates. Not being a connoisseur I don't know what their history is nor what might be their value; I only know that they are altogether lovely. The designs are delicious; flowers, in- sects, birds, little houses, Chinamen fishing in tiny boats, inter- spersed with spirited representations of the Gallic cock in rose and scarlet. I exclaimed over them to Madame, whereat Monsieur, candle in hand, bustled across the room and called on me to regard one in particular. "Qa coute," he averred proudly, " quar ante francs!" Since that moment I have been vaguely uneasy. What if, in a moment of exasperation, I should throw an ink-bottle at the Gen- darme's head, and — shatter a plate worth forty francs! Our room is the third one back. The front room is kitchen, din- ing and living room. The in-between room is quite bare of furni- ture, lined all about with panelled cupboards, and quite without light or air except that which filters in through the opened doors. In one of these cupboards Monsieur le Commandant spends his nights. When the hour for retiring comes, he opens a little panelled door and climbs into the hole in the wall thus revealed, leaving the door a crack open after him. When we pass through on our way to breakfast we hurry by the cupboard with averted faces. The family Chaput are not early risers. Already Madame has taken us into her warm heart. She will be our mother while we are in France, she tells us. Everything about us is of absorbing interest. When the Gendarme exhibited her wardrobe trunk, she was fairly overcome. "Ah, vive VAmerique" she cried, clapping her old hands, and, 11 Vive V Amerique\" again. Bourmont, it seems, is army Divisional Headquarters. It is also headquarters for this division of the Y. There is a hut here, a ware- house, and headquarters offices, employing a personnel of sixteen 4 BOURMONT , or seventeen. By tomorrow the Gendarme and I will know what our work is to be. Botjrmont, November 28. I have a canteen; the Gendarme, who has had some business training, is to work in the office. My canteen is in Saint Thiebault, the village next door. In the morning I go down the hill, past the grey houses built like steps on either side — some with odd pear trees, their branches trained gridiron-wise flat against the fronts, — over the river Meuse, here a sleepy little stream, to Saint Thie- bault. On the way I pass lads in olive drab with whom I exchange a smile and a hello, villagers bareheaded, in sabots, and poilus in what was once horizon blue. In Paris the uniforms were all so beautiful and bright, but here at Bourmont one sees the real hue, faded, discolored, muddy, worn. The soldiers, middle-aged men for the most part, slouch about, occupied with homely, simple tasks, chopping wood and drawing water. One feels there is some- thing painfully improper in the fact that they should be in uniform; they should, each and every one, be propped comfortably in front of their own hearthsides reading VEcho de Paris, in felt slippers while their wooden shoes rest on the sill outside. And yet these very ones, I think as I look at them, may be the defenders of Verdun, the victors of the Marne, the veterans of a hundred battles! The Bourmontese, who are proud and haughty folk, and call themselves a city though they number only a few hundred souls, look with disdain on the smaller village of Saint Thiebault, Saint Thiebault des Crapauds they call it, Saint Thiebault of the Toads. Approaching Saint Thiebault one sees two unmistakable signs of American occupancy; first, a large heap of empty tin cans and then the Stars and Stripes fluttering from a flag pole in the centre of the village. For Saint Thiebault is Regimental Headquarters and it is the boast of the old Colonel that wherever the regiment has gone that flag has gone too. Down the main street of the town I go, past the drinking fountain placarded; "Do not drink, good only for animals," but at which, nevertheless, the doughboys frequently COMPANY A 5 refresh themselves, cheerfully risking death, not to mention a court- martial, in order to get a drink of unmedicated water; and out along the Rue Dieu until I turn off the highway just beyond the village wash-house. The wash-house, known to the French as la Fontaine, is a beautiful little building like a tiny stone chapel, with tall arched windows filled with iron grills. Through the centre runs a long oblong pool; at its brim the women kneel to do their scrubbing, handsome peasant wenches many of them, with fresh, high coloring. Often one sees a soldier leaning against the grill, engaged in some attempt at gallantry through the bars. Sometimes one even glimpses a form in olive drab kneeling by the side of one of the peasant girls, he scrubbing his sock,s, and she her stays, while she gives him a lesson in French and in laundering a la Franqaise. When the Americans first came to Saint Thiebault they had only a small-sized guard-house. Then came one historic pay-day when after months of penury the troops were paid. That night the accommodations at "the brig" proved inadequate and the wash-house had to be requisitioned for the over-flow. This was well enough until the lodgers fell to fighting among themselves and so fell headlong into the pool. Then such a hullabaloo broke loose that the whole camp turned out to see who had been mur- dered. Back of the wash-house lies a group of long French barracks, and here lives Company A of the Regiment, infantry and "regulars." Beyond the mess-hall is the hut, a French abri tent with double walls. Ducking under the fly, one finds oneself in a long rectangular canvas room, lighted by a dozen little isinglass windows. The room is filled with folding wooden chairs and long ink-stained tables over which are scattered writing materials, games and well-worn magazines. Opposite the door, at the far end, is the canteen counter, a shelf of books at one side, a victrola and a bulletin board, to which cartoons and clippings are tacked, on the other. Back of the counter on the wall, held in place by safety pins, are the hut's only decorations, four of the gorgeous French war posters brought with me from Paris. There are two 6 BOURMONT stoves resembling unbrella-stands for heating in the main part of the hut and behind the counter another, about the size and shape of a man's derby hat, on which I must make my hot chocolate. For lights at night I am told that occasionally one can procure a few quarts of kerosene and then the lamps that stand underneath the counter are brought out and for a few days we shine; but usually we manage as our ancestors did with candle-light. Our candle- sticks form a quaint collection; some are real tin bourgeois brought from Paris, some strips of wood, some chewing-gum boxes, while others are empty bottles, "dead soldiers" as the boys call them. As for the bottles, I am particular about the sort that I employ and none of mine are labeled anything but Vittel Water. Others I observe are not so circumspect, — yesterday I chanced in at a can- teen in a neighboring village kept by a Y man; on a shelf three "dead soldier" candlesticks stood in a row and their labels read; Champagne, Cognac, Benedictine ! For the rest, the hut is equipped with a wheezy old piano, a set of parlor billiards, and a man secre- tary. It is invariably dense with smoke, part wood and part tobacco, and usually crowded with boys. The first night after the Chief had taken me over to call at my canteen and I had had one cursory glance at them, I came back feeling that my hut contained the roughest, toughest set of young ruffians that I had ever laid eyes on. The second night I came home and fairly cried myself to sleep over them — they seemed so young, so pitiful and so puzzled underneath their air of bravery, so far away from anything they really understood and everybody that was dear to them. It was Cummings in particular I think who did it for me. He owns to seventeen but I would put fifteen as an outside estimate. A mere boy who hasn't got his growth yet, with soft unformed features and a voice as shrill as a child's, I am sure he ran away from home to go to war just as another lad might have run away to see the circus. Although the regiment is a regular army organization, a large part of the men were raw re- cruits only last summer, a fact which causes the old-timers, whose service dates from Border days or before, no little regret. COMPANY A 7 "This Man's Army ain't what it used to be," they complain; "it's getting too mixed." The "veterans" have a stock saying which they employ to put the youngsters in their places; "Call yourself a soldier do you? Why I've stood parade rest longer than you've been in the army ! " This is sometimes varied, when the speaker happens to be the tough sort, by; "Huh! I've put more time in the guard-house than you have in the army!" Tonight a boy came up to the counter and asked: " Goin' to serve hot chocolate tonight? " "Sure thing!" "Then I guess I won't go out and get drunk." It's going to be hot chocolate or die in that hut every night after this! Bourmont, November 31. I don't like my uniform. I don't like women in uniform any- way. I suppose it is because one is so used to the expression of a woman's personality in dress that when she dons regulation garb she seems to lose so much. And then to really carry off a uniform requires a flair, a dash, a swagger, and such are rarely feminine possessions. The consensus of opinion seems to bear me out. "Of course I think women in uniforms look very snappy, "con- fided a lad to me today; "but somehow they don't look like women tome!" "Pas joli" says Monsieur le Commandant severely, referring to my hat. "Pas jolil" But when I put on my old blue civilian coat he fairly goes into raptures. "Be-u-ti-ful!" he ejaculates. "Be-u-ti-ful! Toilette de mile. Pas toilette de Y. M. C. AJ" Besides the suit and cape I had made in Paris, they gave me two canteen aprons, aprons such as French working women wear, voluminous, beplaited, made in Mother Hubbard style. Now there is one point on which I am resolved. They can court martial me, they can send me home, or they can lead me out and shoot me 8 BOURMONT at sunrise, but they cannot make me wear those aprons! What's more, the very first minute that I have to myself I'm going to cut them up and make them into canteen dish-cloths. Bourmont, December 3. ! This French money is the very plague; not because it is French but because it is so flimsy. It may perhaps measure up to the na- tional standards, but it fails utterly to meet American require- ments; the difference lying chiefly in the fact that the French don't shoot craps. It comes into the canteen in all stages of disintegra- tion. "She's kinder feeble. Will she pass?" inquires a lad anxiously. "With care maybe, and the help of a little sticking plaster," I reply; and getting out the roll of gummed paper kept handily in the cash-drawer, I proceed to patch up the tattered bill. "Guess this one must have been up to the front; it's all shot to pieces," another lad apologizes; then, at my casual references to shooting craps, grins guiltily. "But say now, ain't it the rottenest money you ever did see?" "The United States ought to teach these Frenchies how to make paper money," remarks a third; while still another adds; "When I'm to home I write to my girl on better paper than that." Sometimes the bills come in as a mere mass of crumpled tatters; then one must play picture-puzzle piecing it together. Sometimes they are beyond repair; for at times you will receive two halves of different notes pasted neatly together, or at other times one with the corner bearing an essential number lacking. The French banks refuse to pay a cent on their paper money unless it is just so. "I'm sorry, but that bill's no good," you will occasionally have to tell a boy. Usually he will grin cheerfully as he stuffs it back into his pocket. " Oh well, I'll pass it along in a crap game." Then too, the boys have no respect for foreign money and so handle it carelessly with an obvious contempt that is irritating to the French. COMPANY A 9 "Tain't real money," they declare. The paper francs and half -francs they call "soap coupons." "Why, you might just as well be spendin' the label off a stick o' chewin' gum!" they jeer. Next to the paper money that comes to pieces in their fingers, the boys detest the big one and two cent coppers. Known to the navy as " bunker-plates," in the army they pass as "clackers." "You get a pocket-full o' them things and you think you've got some money, and all the time it ain't more than ten cents alto- gether," they grumble. "I can't be bothered carryin' that stuff around," they declare when I beg them to pay me in coppers. "I always throw 'em away or give 'em to the kids." A prejudice which greatly complicated the matter of making change until I had an inspiration. Now I give them their small change in boxes of matches or sticks of chew- ing gum. Then there is the annoyance of the local money. Since the war, the cities of France have taken to issuing their own paper francs and half-francs. We accept all this local money in the canteens and send it to Paris to be redeemed. But the French tradespeople in general refuse to honor these bills except in the city that issues them or its immediate vicinity. Many a puzzled dough-boy has been driven to indignant protest or even to "chucking the stuff away" in his exasperated disgust when told by the shop-keepers that his paper money was pas bon. But the grievance is not quite all on one side: no small amount of worthless Mexican money, brought over by Border veterans, I am told, was palmed off on shopkeepers at the port when the Americans first landed! In contrast to their disdain for this foreign currency the boys cherish to a degree that is half funny, half pathetic, any specimens of "real money" that they are lucky enough to possess. "Say, I had an American dollar bill in my hand the other day, — I felt just as if the old flag was waving over me!" And another lad; "Saw a U. S. Dollar bill today. Oh boy! but it looked a mile long to me!" io B0URM0NT If anyone displays an American greenback at the counter a little riot is sure to ensue. All the boys nearby crowd about, feast their eyes on it, touch it, pat it, kiss it even. "Lemme see!" " Ain't she a beauty?" "That's the real stuff!" "Say, how much will you sell her for?" Even the half-dollars, quarters and dimes are precious. "You don't get that one," they say as they pull a handful of change from their pockets. "That's my lucky piece. I'm savin 7 that there little oP nickel to spend on Broadway." French money, Belgian money, Swiss money, English money, Spanish money, Italian money, Greek money, Canadian money, Luxembourg money, Indo-Chinese money, money from Argentine Republic, and yesterday a German mark even, all come across the counter and go into the till without comment. But when any American money comes in I always feel badly over it. For, be it a crisp five dollar bill, an eagle quarter or only a buffalo nickel I know it signifies just one thing, — bankruptcy. Bourmont, December 7. To be a corporal in the Ninth Infantry, it is said, a man must be able to speak eight languages, one for each soldier in his squad. The same could be said with almost equal truth of our regiment. I don't know whether it is this mixture of many nationalities that gives my family its flavour; be that as it may, Company A has more color, more character, more individuality to the square inch than I had dreamed any such group could possess. And they are so funny, so engaging in their infinite variety and their child-like naivete! First there are Gatts and Maggioni; Gatts, lean, tall, honest- eyed, with a grin that won't come off and a quaint streak of humour, — Gatts who looks pure Yankee, but is, if the truth were told, three-quarters German, — Gatts who hangs about my counter hour after hour; and by his side sticks little Maggioni, who told the recruiting officer that he was seventeen but whose head just tops the canteen shelf, and who looks, with his pink cheeks and his COMPANY A ii great dark eyes, like nothing in the world but an Italian cupid in the sulks. The two have struck up the oddest comradeship. "Me an' Gatts, we're goin 'to stick side by side," explains Mag- gioni, " an' if I see a crowd o' Germans pilin' onto him, why I'll just go right after 'em, an' if too many of 'em come for me ter oncet, why Gatts here, he'll just lay right into 'em." And Gatts nods, looking down at Maggioni with a parent's indulgent eye. "He thinks he's a tough guy for sich a little feller," he comments reflectively; "but he's the only one in the regiment that knows it." "You all think I'm mighty little!" snaps the cupid. "When I joined at Syracuse everybody said to me 'Baby, where'd you leave your cradle? ' But lemme tell you, I've growed since I've been in the army!" "Waal I do believe there's one part of him that's growed;" Gatts is very solemn. "What's that?" I ask. "His feet." Private Gatts has promised me one of the Kaiser's ears! Then there is Brady, "Devil Brady" the little black Irish coal- miner from Oklahoma, who spends his days trying to get put in the guard-house, so he won't have to drill. "I'm plumb disgusted," he confided to me today. "I never worked so hard in my life as I did the other night gettin' drunk, an' then the guard was so much drunker than I was, I had to carry him to the guard-house. I thought sure they'd give me thirty days at least, but they only kept me twenty-four hours and then out!" "Hard luck," I sympathized. "I just knew how it would be," he mourned. "It was Friday the thirteenth when I joined the army; there were just thirteen of us fellers, and the thirteenth was a nigger." He tells me the most wonderful yarns about the miners and their pet rats, about explosions and disasters and rescue parties. Last night he told me the story of one mine-horror that will stick in my memory. 12 BOURMONT "And we shoveled the last three men and a mule into one bag," he finished. Now and then I catch a glimpse of Jenicho the Russian giant, but he is very shy. A huge lumbering fellow, sluggish, and seem- ingly stupid, with little pig eyes that are quite lost to sight when he smiles, Jenicho is the butt of the Company. When he joined the regiment last summer, they tell me, he knew no word of English. The first phrase that he acquired was; " You no bodder me." For the boys can't resist the temptation to plague Jenicho, and though his strength is such that if he once should get his hands on his tormentors he could break them into bits, he is so slow withal that they always can elude him. Not long ago Jenicho was walking post one night when the Officer of the Day hailed him and an- nounced himself. To which Jenicho lustily responded; "Me no give damn. Me walk post, gun loaded, bay'net fixed. You no bodder me. Me shoot!" And the Officer of the Day discreetly walked on. Then there is little Philip R. who plays our decrepit old piano quite brilliantly by ear, and who is, he tells me, half Greek and half Egyptian. Philip R. is the pet of a French family in one of the neighboring villages. He stopped at a house to ask for a drink of water when out walking one day. Madame asked him in, pressed him to stay to supper. The family made much of him, and all because forsooth he was the first "American" they had ever seen. Since then he has been a constant welcome visitor. There is St. Mary too. If you can conceive of a cherub eating watermelon you have a perfect picture of St. Mary. St. Mary converses entirely in words of one syllable and very few at that. He makes smiles serve for speech. St. Mary loses everything he owns; not long ago he lost his overcoat, now he has lost his bayonet. Yet St. Mary is the best natured boy in the company; he needs to be. When St. Mary helps me stir the chocolate it seems as if half the company fined up on the other side of the counter to shout; "St. Mary! Take your dirty hands out er that there chocolate!" and St. Mary never says a word but grins until his eyes are nothing COMPANY A 13 but little slits and ducks his head until only the curls on top are visible. "St. Mary, he's kind o' simple," explains Private Gatts. "But there ain't anybody in camp that's got a better heart." And there is Bruno, Angelo Bruno, a little grinning goblin of a man, but strong, they say, as a gorilla. Bruno gives the non-coms no end of trouble; he's a "tough nut to manage." Whenever he is told to do anything that does not suit his tastes, he merely shrugs his shoulders, " No capish," and that's the end of it. The other day while on guard he was interrogated by the Officer of the Day. "What's your name?" "Bruno." "What are your general orders?" "Angelo." The Officer gasped, thought he would try again. "What are your special orders? " Bruno saw a light. "They're ina my pock!" When I first came to Saint Thiebault I was puzzled by the silver half-francs in my cash drawer which were bent in the middle, some of them so far as almost to form a right-angle. Then the boys explained. Bruno was once a strong man in a circus side- show. He did things with his teeth. The crooked half-francs were the results of his exhibiting his prowess to the boys. So now when damaged half -francs appear I know that our little Angelo has been trying his teeth again. At present our social intercourse with Bruno is limited. He is serving thirty days in the guard-house. But every day or two he slips into the hut to do his shopping, the kind-hearted guard standing at the door, as he does so, a sheepish look on his face. If there is one military duty which the dough- boy hates above all others, it is this job of "chasing prisoners," and when you meet a file of guard-house habitues escorted by a rifle in the rear, it is invariably the guard, and not the prisoners, who looks the culprit! The interest of Bruno's visits lies largely in seeing what is his latest acquisition in the way of jewelry. For Bruno has a pretty taste for finery and enlivens the dull evenings i 4 BOURMONT of his captivity by winning away the ornaments of his fellow prisoners. Already he has come into the canteen decked out with seven large rings and a fat watch and chain. Today he appeared with his latest prize, a pair of gold-rimmed eye glasses. They are hideously unbecoming, they pinch his nose so that it hurts, more- over he can't more than half see out of them, and yet it is quite evident those eyeglasses are the pride of his heart. Last week our Secretary conceived a big idea. He would edu- cate A Company. He would teach them to read, write and speak English. He started a class. On the first night there was a large crowd, eager and interested; the second night there were six, the pupils when sought out complaining they were " tired" or "busy;" the third night there was Saint Mary who made one; the fourth night the class died an easy death. I am afraid Company A is going to continue uneducated. As Brady said: "There were just two things I learned in school; one was to throw a spit ball, the other was to bend a pin convenient for somebody to sit on." And it looks as if it would have to go at that. "Why, those birds don't even understand their own names," complain the officers; "except on pay-day, and then they'll answer no matter how you pronounce them." Bourmont, December q. There is something queer about me. I don't mind the mud, I don't mind the rain, I don't mind the hill, I don't even mind the mess. Of course I admit that the food isn't quite what one is used to, and the surroundings are a trifle unsavoury, but it is, after all, so much better than the state of semi-starvation that I was led to half anticipate, that I for one am quite content. Our mess is held at the house of an old couple who live a little way above our billet on the hill. The house was differentiated from the others in the row by a spindling and discouraged tree which stood in a green tub outside; as this was the only tree in front of a house on the whole street it has always been easy to pick out our otherwise undistinguished entrance. Last night however, the COMPANY A IS weather waxing colder, the tree moved indoors. This morning the whole Y. personnel wandered distractedly up and down the hill trying to identify the mess-house door, until some kindly villagers, sensing the situation, came out on their front steps and pointed us to the place. The house, like most of the village dwellings, consists, down- stairs, of just two rooms. In the front room the family cooks, eats and spends its days. In the back room the family sleeps, and here we have our mess. The drawback of this arrangement is that one has to pass through the kitchen in order to reach the dining- room and this is likely to spoil one's pleasure in the meal that follows. As for me, I go on the principle that what one doesn't know won't take one's appetite away, and so hurry through the kitchen with one eye shut and the other fixed on the door ahead of me. Said my right-hand neighbor to my left-hand neighbor at supper the other day, as he offered him the piece de resistance of the meal: "You aren't taking rice tonight? " "Thanks no. Saw the old lady picking 'em out this noon." " That's nothing. I saw the old man picking 'em out of the beans yesterday." But why should people come to war if they are going to be so squeamish? A few days ago one rash soul among us conceived a hankering for salad. She went to Madame and, being ignorant of the French word, demanded simply. "Avez-vous lettice?" Madame shook her head uncomprehending, but finally as the words were repeated a fight dawned. "Ah ouij oni, ouiV She turned and hurried upstairs, descending triumphantly a moment later with a large bundle of old letters! In just what form she expected us to have them served I have not yet been able to ascertain. The mess-room is so crowded that to reach a seat often requires 16 BOURMONT considerable manceuvering. In one comer stands an ancient dress- maker's dummy — by popular vote awarded as sweetheart to the most bashful man at table; in the corner opposite is the bed of Madame and Monsieur. The men who get up for early breakfast, swallow their bread and jam and coffee with Monsieur watching from his couch of ease. Today Madame was indisposed and when we came to supper we found that she had retired already. All through the meal she lay there, under the red feather-bed, looking like a dingy, weazened old corpse, staring at the ceiling, her mouth wide open. For the last few days we have had a visiting clergyman with us. To all appearances a meek and long-suffering little man, he has been giving special revivalistic discourses at the huts and eating at our mess. This morning he was asked to say grace. In the middle of a long and earnest exhortation I was startled to hear these words: "Oh Lord, Thou knowest we are apt to grow lean and to starve in Thy service!" I fairly had to stuff one of the one franc canteen handkerchiefs, which serve as napkins at the mess, into my mouth to keep from laughing. Bourmont, December 12. In Paris a man who lectured to us said : " Get the fellows who have influence with you, and you can swing the crowd." Sometimes I think that if Pat were our enemy instead of our friend we might almost as well shut up the hut. For Pat the sharp-shooter, Pat the dare-devil, Pat, who in company phrase "has Harry Lauder and George Cohen stopped in a hundred places," Pat the happy-go- lucky adventurer is one of the leading spirits in Company A. He has served, it seems, already in the war with the Canadian army. "But how did you get out of it?" I asked. Whereupon Pat regaled me with a wonderful rigmarole involving an extraordinary case — his own — of shell-shock out of which I could make neither head nor tail. Later, from one of the Secretaries who had been at Saint Thiebault before I came, I learned the truth. COMPANY A 17 When America had declared war, Pat had deserted from the Canad- ian in order to enlist in the American army. Pat had showed him a letter from one of his old-time friends; it ended: "Of course I wouldn't think of splitting on an old pal like you, Pat, but I do need twenty dollars like hell." "What did you do?" asked the Secretary. "Sure an' I sent him the money," grinned Pat. Shortly after I first became acquainted with him, Pat, who is naturally gallant, with a tongue inclined to blarney, extracted a promise from me. Some day, after the war, if we should happen to meet, say, strolling down Fifth Avenue, Pat "dressed in a nice blue serge suit" is going to "take me away from the other feller" and take me out to dinner. It was after solemly pledging my word to this agreement that I learned that Pat had formerly been a saloon keeper and had had an extensive police-court record. Im- mediately I began to hope that Pat would forget that post-war party, but not he. Instead, he is constantly reminding me of it, always before an audience, dwelling on it and elaborating it, until now I find it has grown from a mere dinner, to dinner, the theatre and a dance! Lithe, wiry, lean-faced with close-cropped hair, pale blue gimlet eyes and an almost unvarying expression of intense seriousness on his face, Pat, when present, is the life of the hut. Forever at his clowning, you would never dream from his demeanour that Pat's domestic affairs are in a state little short of catastrophic. His wife, according to her photograph a handsome, sullen, passionate type, half Mexican, ran away about a year ago, taking with her all his money that happened to be handy, together with his new auto- mobile. Encountering some of Pat's friends, she had explained her apparently care-free single state by telling them that Pat was dead. Now she has discovered that Pat is in France, she is all for reconciliation. She has written him a letter in which she addresses him as her dear husband about six times to each sheet, informing him that she needs money, and inquiring of him what he wished her to do with his clothes. 18 BOURMONT "What did you answer?" I asked, for Pat, who must always share his correspondence, had shown me the letter. "I told her," grinned Pat, "she cu'd keep the clothes and maybe she'd find another man to fit 'em." But there is another and more serious side to the matter. It seems that the lady in the case has written to the Captain of A Company, requesting him to forward a large proportion of Pat's pay to his deserving and indigent wife. Whether or not this will be done is still uncertain. Pat refuses to discuss the possibilities, but from the glint in his eyes I have a premonition that if next pay day Pat finds any considerable deduction made from his pay, that that night one wild Irishman will run amuck in Saint Thiebault. Occasionally in the midst of Pat's racy discourses I overhear things not meant for my ears, such as his remarking how in Rochester once he "went on a seven day's pickle in company with a female dreadnut." But usually he is very careful to only "pull gentle stuff" in my hearing. The other day he delivered himself of a wonderful dissertation on the deceitfulness of pious people, ending with this gem; "So whenever I see one of these guys comin' towards me with a gold crown on his bean, looking' as if he couldn't sin if he had to, why I nip tight on to my pocket-book and I cross to the other side of the street!" To-day Pat came into the canteen with a newspaper clipping and a letter to show me. The letter was from the Chief of Police of K. , one of the many cities in which Pat has resided during his short but crowded life, the clipping from the K Daily Sheet. The clipping was comprised of a letter which Pat had written to the Chief of Police giving in humorous phrase his version of life in France and an accompanying paragraph stating that though the writer had given the police force no little anxiety during his resi- dence in K , still he had been in spite of all, a good-hearted and likable rascal, and now that he had gone to war for his coun- try, bygones should be bygones and K must be proud of him. The letter from the Chief was in much the same vein. COMPANY A 19 "Yes," ruminated Pat; "I kept the old feller pretty busy, though me an' him were friends just the same. But it sure would get the old man's goat, just after he'd had me up and fined me, to come home and see me settin' at his dinner-table alongside of his pretty daughter." Bourmont, December 14. Because it took too much time right in the most important part of the day to climb Bourmont Hill for mess at night, I have ar- ranged to take my suppers with two little old ladies here in Saint Thiebault. The suppers are to consist of a bowl of cocoa and a slice of bread with jam. The little ladies supply the bread and milk for the cocoa and I supply the rest, paying them one franc a day. At half-past five I put on my things, light my little candle- lantern and set forth. The boys, coming in after mess, will be crowding the hut; a chorus of anxious voices queries. "You're comin' back sure, ain't you?" And, "What time is that hot chocolate goin' to be ready?" I pick my way down the slippery duck-boards to the highway. Trudging along the muddy road, friendly voices hail me from the dark. I am known by the little light I carry. At number two Rue Dieu I rap and enter, trying desperately to leave some of the mud from my boots on the door-step, for in this land of wooden shoes scrapers are as unknown as they are unnecessary. Once inside I have to fairly strain my eyes in order to be able to see any- thing, for all the light in the room is supplied by the embers on the hearth and one tiny gasolene lamp with a flame not much bigger than the point of a lead pencil. Kerosene is unobtainable for civilian use; the price of candles is prohibitive. "C'est la guerre. Cest la inisere" say the little old ladies. "One must sit in the dark — "C'est triste comme qa." My candle doubles the illumination, yet in spite of that, so strong is the instinct for economy, they will not rest easy until they have blown it out. The little old ladies are cousins. The elder of the two, "Ma- 20 B0URM0NT dame," is lame and has snow-white hair. She sits by the fire always in the self -same spot. The younger, "Mademoiselle," is a tiny dwarfish creature with a back that is not quite straight. Over her dark dress she wears a jaunty little scarlet apron sewn with black polka dots. I am grateful for that apron; it makes the one bit of color in the sombre room. I sit in front of the fire at the round table and sip my chocolate. The table has an oil-cloth cover on which is printed a map of France, so as I eat my supper I can take a lesson in geography. It is a pre-war tablecloth I fancy; over at one edge shows a slice of Germany. The little old ladies point to that side of the table with scorn, "Les sales Bodies sont la!" they explain. I wonder that it doesn't give them heart-burn to look down and see the captive and devastated districts of France lying beneath their tea cups. Think of setting your salt-cellar on the city of Lille or your mustard pot on the sacred citadel of Verdun! As I sup I endeavour to converse politely, but as my French is little more than camouflage, this is a dubious proceeding. Whenever I prove particularly stupid, out of the corner of my eye I catch Madame shaking her old head at Mademoiselle despair- ingly. "Elle ne comprend pas!" she murmurs sotto voce, pityingly; "elle ne comprend pas! " At odd times they turn an honest penny by doing a little sewing for the villagers. But life is very difficult these days: the prices of everything have gone so high. Why, wooden shoes that cost five francs before the war now fetch fifteen ! Tonight I noticed an item in a Parisian Journal lying by my plate. It was to the effect that at the Madeleine that day Mile. X had married Lieut. Z., a veteran of the war who had lost both arms and both legs. I showed it to the little ladies. "Ah out!" sighed Mademoiselle with a shiver. "Elle a beau- coup de courage, celle-la!" And Madame shook her white head and echoed. "Oui, elle a beaucoup de courage!" COMPANY A 21 Upstairs an American officer is billeted. I fancy his presence supplies a certain dash of romance to the little old ladies' lives. The Americans are nice, they say, and make little noise in the village; when the Russians were here it was different. "It will be lonely when the Americans are gone," sighs Madem- oiselle. "The houses will seem empty." Bourmont, December 18. Yesterday I explored the top of Bourmont Hill. It is here that the Quality Folk live, and here are some stately old houses with beautiful carved doorways and even an occasional gargoyle. Here too the general commanding the Division lives, and I have often observed with glee corpulent colonels and rotund majors puffing and blowing and growing red in the face as they climbed the hill to Headquarters. At the top of the hill there are two churches. Some two weeks ago, it is whispered, a spy was caught signaling from the tower of Notre Dame. His signals, it is said, were flashed to another spy stationed on the hills to the east, who in turn sent the messages on to the lines. The Cure* of Notre Dame is being held under suspicion of complicity. From Notre Dame an avenue bordered by magnificent old trees sweeps around to the Calvary, a tall wooden cross surmounting a curious structure of rough stone, ringed about with shallow steps — the Mecca of many pilgrimages. Beyond the Calvary one comes to the Mystery of Bourmont. A faded sign declares Defense d J entree, but one looks the other way and slips by. For once past the gate you are in an atmosphere of enchantment. No one seems to know just what it is, nor how it came about; I can get no intelligent ex- planation from Madame or Monsieur. To me it seems like the for- gotten playground of an old mad king in some fantastic legend. For here among the trees are stone stairs, walls and terraces, and, cut in the curiously cleft rocks, are niches and tunnelled passage- ways, all mantled over now with green moss and ivy, the whole making one think of a dream garden out of Maeterlinck. 22 BOURMONT Coming down Bourmont Hill afterwards I was startled by the beating of a drum; looking back I saw a woman, bare-headed, her blue apron fluttering in the wind, descending the street after me; from her shoulders was slung the drum which she was beating with a martial vim. It was the town-crier, le tambour as the French put it. Arrived at an appropriate spot, she stopped, pulled out a paper, cried "AvisI" and began to read in a rapid high official monotone. The wash-house was to be closed between two and four o'clock the following afternoon on account of the new water system the Amer- icans were installing. Certain requisitions of grain were to be levied. . . . The villagers were notified to call at the Mayory for their bread cards, without which, after such a date, no bread could be obtained. . . . One or two women came to the doors of the houses and listened. She took no notice of them. The reading over, she rolled the paper up with a quick decisive gesture, and re- sumed her march, the sharp rub-a-dub-dub of her drum pursuing me all the way to Saint Thiebault. Of late the air has become fairly vibrant with disquieting rum- ours: one does not know what to believe, what to reject. The Germans are massing for a gigantic drive on Nancy. In three weeks, some say, the offensive is to begin; three days, say others. Nancy is to be another Verdun. If they break through they will pass this way. The American troops are being withdrawn from this neighborhood: any day the order may come for us to leave. At Paris the political situation is dark. Some people even fear a popular uprising against the government. I hinted at this to Monsieur, he shook his old head hopelessly. But yes, things were in a bad way. Now if France only had Veelson at her head! France and Veelson! His gesture indicated the grandeur of such a contingency. As it was, France lacked a leader. And under- neath all this runs another rumour, still darker, still more dis- quieting. The French, the gallant French, they say, are "laying down." They are ready to make peace at any price. They are played out, sick to death of it all! "Forty- two months in the trenches!" cried a sergeant en per- COMPANY A 23 mission last night; "It is enough! I am through. Let the Ameri- cans do it!" And this feeling, they tell us, is wide-spread. The people see our soldiers day after day, in the training camps, inactive. " What are they here for?" they are asking. "Why don't they fight? Are they going to wait until it is all over?" Will our soldiers, half-trained as they are, and a mere handful, be forced, to satisfy them, into the trenches? In the canteen I look inco the boys' faces and smile, but my heart turns sick within me. Bourmont, December 20. Such a strange, incredible thing has happened, — a thing that has upset all my preconceived ideas of human nature. It began with Malotzzi. Malotzzi as his name betrays is a "wop;" he is also the smallest fellow in the company which contains many small men. Nor is he only small, but with his thin olive-tinted face and his slender body, he looks so delicate, so ethereal that you feel a breath of wind might fairly blow him away. To the company he is "a good kid, quiet, never makes any trouble." To me he has always seemed an elfin, changeling creature, a strayed pixie, whose imp- ishness has turned to gentleness. Child of the tenements that he is, he is possessed of the most exquisite old-fashioned courtesy that I have ever yet encountered; and he has the starriest eyes of any mortal born. Not long ago he came to the counter to show me a postcard from his sweetheart. It had an ugly picture of a red brick city block upon it, and the message scrawled in an unformed hand beneath contained little except the simple declaration that when he came home she would go with him to the photographer's over the candy store at the corner and they would have their pictures taken to- gether. Yet no flaming and lyric love-letter could have rendered him more naively proud. Malotzzi with a sweetheart! It was absurd, he was nothing but a child! I can well believe that Malotzzi wouldn't make a very "snappy" soldier. 24 BOURMONT This afternoon when the company was out for drill, a certain Second Lieutenant discovered that Malotzzi hadn't got his pack rolled up right. This was not the first time he had offended in this manner. The Lieutenant had warned him. He was angry. He took Malotzzi over to the bath-house, stripped off his blouse, tied his hands so he couldn't struggle, and beat him with a gun- strap until he fainted. The story flashed around the camp. When I came back from supper I found the boys at white-heat with indignation. They fairly seethed with anger. I think if the Lieutenant had happened in, they might have killed him. Presently a little crowd carried Malotzzi in. They rolled back his sleeves and showed me the great purple welts upon his arms. His back was all like that, they said. He had to be held up in order to keep his feet. "You had better take him to the hospital," I told them. They carried him out again. He is at the hospital now, where he is likely to stay for some time. His lungs are delicate and the beating caused congestion. The medical officer made a report and the Lieutenant has been placed under arrest. I have never met the Lieutenant to know him, but curiously, the Secretary, who messes with the officers, asserts that of all the men there this Lieutenant has always appeared as the most clean-spoken, the most cultured, the most gentlemanly. And the boys have always considered him a very decent sort. The whole thing is absolutely and blankly incomprehensible to me. There is one explanation the boys offer; which is that the Lieutenant, having a yellow streak, has lost his nerve at the prospect of going to the front, and has done this as a desperate expedient, in the hope of being dishonorably discharged. The only other possible explanation which I can come upon is that the Lieutenant has a German name. Bourmont, December 23. The burning question that is on every lip: Will the Christmas turkeys come? COMPANY A 25 We had been promised turkey. What's more I had been prom- ised some of that turkey too, at Company A's mess table. Now uncertainty holds us in torment. Every sort of a rumor is rife. Some darkly insinuate that neighboring organizations have side- tracked those turkeys. Others declare that the turkeys, having been smuggled in by night, are now actually in camp among us. ''Huh!" snorts my friend the Tall Kentuckian. " Funny tur- keys they have in this army! I done heard those turkeys had four legs and a pair of horns!" Of course Christmas won't be Christmas without the turkeys, but anyway we have done our best to bring Christmas into the hut. The question of Christmas trees was taken up in the Bour- mont office some days ago. An application was made to the Mayor; the Mayor referred the matter to the representative of the Bureau of Forestry. The Bureau of Forestry proved to be a good scout. He ruminated a while, "Mademoiselle," said he, "this matter is so tied up with red tape, that if one were to unwind it all, it would be New Year's before you got your tree. My advice is that you select your tree, wait until after dark, then go out, cut it down close to the ground, and cover the place carefully with snow." Tonight when the subject of Christmas trees came up in the canteen I repeated this anecdote to the boys. It was then growing dusky. Several boys immediately disappeared. In an hour they were back again, dragging not one, but two beautiful hemlocks. We set up the more perfect one, and cut the other up for trim- mings. With flags, paper festoons, Japanese lanterns, tinsel which the French call " angel's hair," and tree ornaments the hut was transformed in a twinkling as if by magic. Now it is no longer a muddy-floored tent, but a green bower threaded with myriad bits of bright color, and I have really never seen anything of the sort that was any prettier. Yesterday several cases of free tobacco from the Sun Tobacco Fund arrived in camp. The boys in the orderly room opened the cases last night and hunted through and through them, trying to find packages which bore the names of unmarried lady donors. 26 BOURMONT Unfortunately the Misses who contributed were few and far be- tween, but hope dies hard. "Say, mightn't Asa be a girl?" the lads are asking me eagerly today. "Lucien ain't a man's name, is it?" Enclosed in each package is a postal-card on which one may, if so inclined, return thanks to the giver. The boys who are tak- ing the trouble to write are doing it frankly with the hope that this may encourage the recipient to repetition. How to tactfully suggest this without seeming greedy is a problem whose delicacy proves difficult. "You tell me how to say it," they tease. "Say, won't you write it for me, please ma'am?" I saw one postal-card accomplished after an evening of con- centrated effort; "Your precious and admired gift," it began. Already Santa Claus in the person of Mr. Gatts has presented me with a beautiful white silk apron embroidered with large bunches of life-like violets. Bourmont, Christmas Day. Joyeux Noel! As I came in last night there was a great log burning on the hearth. "Cest la louche de Noel" said Madame and explained how it would burn all night, then Christmas morning she would take the little end that was left and put it away in the loft until the next Christmas: it would protect the house from lightning; it was a very ancient custom. Back in the Salle des Assiettes I found our table spread as for a little fete with a wonderful cake and a bottle tied up with a bouquet of chrysanthemums and long ribbon streamers of red white and blue. I was so innocent that I supposed at first that the chrysanthemums were in the bottle, an improvised vase, but Ma- dame quickly enlightened me: "Cest le vin blanc" she explained to my embarrassment. COMPANY A 27 The Gendarme and I took counsel together as to how we could best express our feelings on this occasion toward the Family Chaput, the household having been increased over night by the ar- rival of the married daughter and her small boy and girl. After va- rious projects had been considered and abandoned, we finally took the little stand from our room, dressed it with evergreen and tinsel, then heaped it with nuts, candies, chocolate bars, and little jars of jam all from the canteen, together with a few small toys, and carried it in and placed it in front of the hearth. The family ap- peared delighted. We observed, however, that after the first toot, baby Max's whistle was swiftly and silently confiscated. Later when La Petite, the little maid-of-all-work who takes care of our rooms, came in, we had a few trinkets dug from the depths of our trunks to bestow on her. Later still I carried chocolates and con- fiture to my little old ladies of the Rue Dieu. This Christmas day I fancy will be long remembered by the inhabitants of this part of France; for in every one of the villages about, our soldiers have given the French children a Christmas tree. I went to see the tree at Saint Thiebault. The ancient church, its chill interior ablaze with light, was crowded with vil- lagers all dressed in their fete day best. The old people were just as excited and eager as the children; not one had ever seen a Christ- mas tree before. They stood on the pews in order to get a better view. The tree which was very large and beautiful stood just outside the altar rail. It bore a gift for every child in Saint Thie- bault. While the tree was slowly being unburdened of its load, the band-master's choir, high up in the choir-loft sang an accom- paniment. Some of the selections were of a sacred character, others frankly secular, such as Drink To Me Only With Thine Eyes; but as one of the choristers remarked; "As long as we sing them slow and solemn the Frenchies won't know the difference." After the Christmas tree I went around to the little local hos- pital to take some gifts to the patients. There were half a dozen of them lying on cots in the bare barracks room, a dreary set in a 28 BOURMONT drearier setting. In one corner lay a boy who muttered incoher- ently. He had just been brought in, they told me, and was very ill: the doctors were puzzled to know what was the matter with him. I left some little gifts for him when he should be better. It was half -past four when I reached the hut. Suddenly it popped into my head that we ought to have a Santa Claus. At half-past six Santa walked in through the door. It was Pat in a big red nose, a red peaked cap, much white cotton-batting beard and whis- kers, rubber boots, the Chief's fur coat, covered over for the night with turkey-red bunting, and a fat pack slung over one shoulder. I had just dressed him in the mess hall, and for an impromptu Santa Claus, I flatter myself he was quite effective. The boys whooped. When they discovered who it was behind that nose, they yelped like terriers. "Ain't he the beauty! Oh you whiskers! Say Pat, kiss me quick!" We got Santa safely behind the counter and then opened the pack. It was full of foolish little things; tricks, puzzles, games, mottoes, whistles, tin trumpets, paper "hummers". The boys went wild. It was the musical instruments that made the hit. For two hours that hut shrieked pandemonium. Every last man in the company tootled and squawked as if his life depended on it, and every last one of them was tootling a different tune. "Cest des grands gosses!" Truly, as Madame Chaput says, they're nothing after all but so many big little boys. After the stuff was distributed the Secretary and I invited the boys to partake of hot chocolate and sandwiches. But to our disappointment they only took a languid interest in the treat. Instead of the five and six cups apiece which many often swallow, not one of them consumed more than a cup and three-quarters. Too late we realized; they had already gorged themselves on the contents of their Christmas boxes from home. Reports coming in from the village stated that one American Christmas custom had made a strong appeal to the feminine por- tion at least of the population. Quantities of mistletoe grow here- COMPANY A 29 abouts. The French, although averring that it brings good-luck, consider it a pest and let it go at that. It took the American dough- boys to enlighten the Mademoiselles as to its Anglo-Saxon signif- icance. It would be curious, I have been thinking, if the adoption of this ancient privilege should prove one of the lasting evidences of the American troops in France! As I left the canteen I learned that the boy who had been so sick at the hospital was dead. Bourmont, December 26. Last night was a wild night in the barracks. This morning the hut was full of echoes of it. Company A indeed wore a jaded look. They had had very little sleep it was explained. And it was all on account of the Christmas hummers. "I ain't got nothin' against you people, but I shore don't think you gave A Company a square deal," remarked my friend the Tall Kentuckian as he lit his cigarette at the counter. "Why, didn't you like the present that Santa Claus brought you? " I teased. "Huh! I would shore have singed the ol' gentleman's whiskers for him last night if I could have caught him!" He went on to explain; "We'd just get settled down good to sleep when some guy or other would start up a-squawkin' on one of them things. An' Sergeant — , well he'd had just enough to make him fightin' mad, an' he shore would rare around that there barracks tryin' to find them fellers. Why, half the corporals in the outfit was marchin' up and down the place most all the night long, shyin' hob-nailed shoes in what they guessed was the direction of them noises." I began to discern what a night of terror it had been. "Yes suh!" declared the Kentuckian. "There was one feller with a hummer we couldn't get. He kept blowin' Tipperary. He must have blowed it for two hours steady, on an' off. I guess he had every last hob-nailed shoe in the hull barracks throwed at him." Nor is this all. It seems I have committed a ghastly faux pas. 3 o BOURMONT I have gotten the Y. in dreadfully dutch with the officers. It is all along of the Christmas calendars. The Christmas calendars arrived at the canteen just the day before Christmas. They were designed to be sold to the boys for five cents a-piece in order that they might have something to send to the folks at home as a Christ- mas greeting. But since they reached us so very late the Secretary and I decided we didn't have the face to put them on sale. " Let's give them away," I suggested, and on his agreeing, laid them in heaps on the counter and invited the boys to help them- selves. The boys weren't bashful. They helped themselves with enthusiasm and zeal. They came back for more and more. For the rest of the day no one did a thing at the hut but sit at the tables and address envelopes. One boy, I learned later, sent off as many as thirty-five. I was awfully pleased to have the boys appreciate the calendars so. And I never once for a moment thought of the censors; but presently I heard from them. The company censors, two of the younger lieutenants, had been looking forward, it seems, to some leisurely care-free hours at Christmas. When the stacks of calendars started coming in they saw their holiday vanish into thin air, nay more, they saw themselves sitting up nights for weeks to come censoring those precious calendars. And they were swearing, raving mad. They were going to run the Y. out of the town! They were going to shut down the hut! Finally they compromised the matter with their consciences by censoring half and chucking the other half into the stove. But even then they couldn't stop fussing and fuming over it. Tonight just to top the matter off, we received a sharp reprimand from the Busi- ness Manager at Bourmont for being so extravagant as to give the calendars away, unauthorized. Was there ever such a tragedy of good intentions? Bourmont, December 27. Today we buried the lad who died on Christmas night. I had never seen a military funeral before and I had never dreamed that such a ceremony could be so thrillingly beautiful. COMPANY A 31 The company formed at three o'clock in the road in front of the canteen, then filed slowly through the streets of the little grey age-old village. The band marching at the head of the pro- cession played the Marche Funebre of Chopin. After the band came the officers of the company and then the firing squad of eight sharp-shooters, followed by an ambulance carrying the boy's coffin covered with a great flag. Behind, marched the whole of Company A and after them crowded a throng of villagers. All the men in town, with the innate respect that the French have for death, stood uncovered as we passed, while many of the women watched with tears streaming down their faces. We passed through the village and down the road to the little grey-walled cemetery, ringed around with evergreens and now deep in freshly fallen snow. All about stretched virgin shining snow- fields and over them to the east rose Bourmont like a dream city, etched as delicately as by a silver-point against the soft dove- colored sky. The majestic phrases of the Catholic burial service rang out clearly on the frosty air: Eternal rest grant him, Lord, And let perpetual light shine upon him! The coffin with the great flag burning in blue and scarlet was lowered into the grave. Slowly, with perfect expression, a bugler blew the poignant, unforgettable notes of Taps. The rifles of the firing squad cracked sharply; three volleys, it was over. "Will they leave him there?" An old Frenchwoman asked one of the boys afterwards. " 'Till the war is over, then likely they will send him home." "But why? He won't be lonely here. There will always be some one to put flowers on his grave." Tonight I was talking to the Supply Sergeant about the lad. "I think he died of a broken heart as much as anything," he told me. "They wouldn't let his mother see him at the dock when we sailed. She came to say good-bye but it was against the rules. He never could get over that; he kept brooding all the time and 32 BOURMONT fretting for her. I read some of her letters to him. They seemed more like a sweetheart's than a mother's." The doctors, however, diagnosed his disease as spinal menin- gitis. They have ordered the barracks in which he slept to be quarantined. Already a half a dozen boys in quarantine have taken to their beds, but this we hope is largely due to over-stimu- lated imaginations. Even if the disease doesn't spread, however, I am wondering what will become of ninety-seven lively boys bottled up for two weeks in one barracks. Already various ones have eluded the guard and come sneaking furtively into the canteen to buy their cigarettes and chocolates. Whenever one of these un- fortunates is recognized a regular howl goes up all over the hut. " Outside! You're one of the crumby ones!" they jeer, or; " Convict! Get back to your cell!" Bourmont, December 28. The worst of my job is playing dragon to the French children. In view of the fact that if allowed in the hut at all they swarm in, in such numbers as to fairly overrun it, and pester the boys with their insatiable appeals for "goom" and chocolate, it has seemed best to make a strict rule against their admission. (Besides which I don't approve of giving them gum, for in the face of anything one can do or say they will insist on swallowing it, which is, I'm sure, not at all good for their tummies!) But in spite of this prohibition the place holds an irresistible attraction for them. At night one can often see their faces pressed flat against the isin- glass windows as they peer inside; while chiefly on Saturday and Sunday afternoons they will slip slyly in, and then if the dragon isn't on the jump to explain to each and every one in her very best French, that she is so sorry but it really is forbidden, why in a twinkling the hut becomes full of them. And they are so pictur- esque, so appealing, so full of shy wonder at the gramaphone with the wheel that "marches by itself" that it is very hard to turn them out. COMPANY A 33 Since Christmas I have been kept busy by a tiny tad of a raga- muffin with a funny round cropped black head and a face as sol- emnly expressionless as a little carved Buddha. He slips in among the tables and he is positively too small to be seen. The Christmas tree with its shining ornaments is his stealthy objective. In vain I explain matters politely to him; without a sound, without the hint of a flicker in his little beady black eyes, he turns and clumps out in his ridiculous sabots, only to presently slip in again. And now it seems he has lain low and sagaciously observed my habits; for returning to the hut after mess this noon, I met him trudging along the Rue Dieu, his eyes encountering mine blandly without embarrassment, his absurd little figure bulging all over with pur- loined Christmas tree ornaments. In the hut I found our poor tree stripped to a height of four feet from the floor of all its finery. These last few evenings the hut has been given over to writing Christmas thank-you letters home. The official writer of love letters for the company has been working overtime; not that his clients cannot write themselves, but because they feel he is more able to do justice to the subject. Every night now I see him sitting out in front of the counter, his Jewish profile bent low over the table as he covers sheet after sheet with his fine and fanciful hand-writ- ing, while next him perches anxiously the interested party, watch- ing developments and occasionally proffering a suggestion. When it is done they must bring it to me for my approval. " That's a real classy letter, ain't it? " the lover will query proudly and I assure him that it is indeed. "When she gets that, I bet she'll come across with that sweater she told me she was makin' for me, all right!" "Say do you think that ought to be good for a cartoon of cigar- ettes? " another one inquires. Of course there are many who, no matter what the effort, prefer to write their own. Sometimes when cleaning up the canteen tables I come upon specimens of such, first drafts dis- carded on account of blots. One such love letter, classic in its brevity, picked up the other day, ran: 34 BOURMONT Dear Sweetheart, I am writing you a few interesting lines which I hope will be the same to you wishing you a merry Xmas and a happy New Year Your loving friend Pvt. Of late I have been moved to speculate wonderingly on the men- tal processes of the American public. I have been going through the stacks of magazines in the warehouse sent from the States for one cent per to provide amusement for the doughboys' leisure moments. Among the rest I found the Upholsterer's Monthly, The Hardware Dealer's Journal, The Mother's Magazine, Fancy Work and The Modern Needleworker. I showed some of these prizes to one of the boys; "Gee, but that's the kind of snappy stuff to send a feller over the top!" was his comment. That numbers of the Undertaker's Journal have also been discovered among the donations from home I have heard asserted on excellent authority, but as yet I have not personally come across any. Just as we were closing tonight, Pat came up to the counter, solemnly leaned across it: "Have you seen the new shoes they're issuin'? he demanded. "They've got pitchers on them so a feller can't see his own feet!" Botjrmont, January 2, 1918. Once a week our peripatetic movie-machine makes its appear- ance among us. Louis, the sixteen year old French operator, un- packs the big cases, sets up the apparatus, and, if our luck holds, we have a show. Owing to the short range of the little machine the screen must be hung in the middle of the hut. This means that half the audience must view the pictures from the back, the essential difference being that the lettering is then reversed; "The Jewish Picture Show," the boys call this. But then as half of us can't read anyway, why should we mind? The joy of the show lies in the audience. Just as soon as the lights are put out the fun begins: "Everbody watch their pocket- COMPANY A 35 books!" goes up the shout and from that moment we are never still. The curly-headed heroine makes her coquettish entrance. "Ooo la la! Oooo la la!" rises the enthusiastic welcome. A bottle is displayed; "Cognac!" the yell shakes the roof. The neglected wife begins to waver in response to the tempter's wiles; "Now don't forget your general orders, little lady!" ad- monishes an earnest voice. Lovers indulge in a prolonged embrace; "Aw quit! Quit it! Yer make me home-sick!" goes up the agonized appeal. The enraptured lover stands registering ecstacy; "Hit him again, he's coming to!" comes the derisive shout. And so it goes. The actors aren't on the screen, they're in the house, and truly there isn't a dull moment on the programme! Last night, however, instead of the joyous chorus of running comment a subdued and decorous silence reigned, broken only by a few half-hearted sallies. What was the matter? I racked my brain to find the cause. All the joy had gone from the show. The evening was stale, flat and unprofitable. When the lights were lit again the mystery was immediately made plain. At one end of the counter stood an officer. I wonder if he dreamed what a spoil- sport he had been? Once a week also a lady comes from the Bourmont office to give us a French lesson; not that Company A betrays any burning desire to learn to parlez-vous, but just that it seems obviously the proper thing to do under the circumstances, so French they must be taught willy-nilly. There were two lessons to be sure in which they took a degree of interest; the lesson about buying and count- ing money, and the lesson about food and drink. But when they had once learned to ask the price of things and to understand the answer, and had learned the words for eggs, bread, butter, beer, ham, beefsteak, chicken and French fried potatoes, their interest lapsed until it became positive boredom. Of late it has seemed to me that it was only the boys with French blood that learned any- thing and they, of course, knew it all already. 3 6 BOURMONT For entertainment Company A can upon occasion furnish its own show. This was demonstrated by an impromptu programme staged in the hut the other night; there's no use we have discovered in planning things beforehand, if one does, as sure as fate, all the star performers " catch guard" that day! Pat by request acted as stage-manager and master of ceremonies. To stimulate the artists we announced prizes. Private Dostal opened the programme; a large red-faced lad with a bland and simple cast of countenance, he is the comic bal- ladist of the company. His first contribution was a selection popularly known among us as Beside the dyirf boxcar, the empty hobo lay, a piece with a vast number of verses in which the dying hobo repents an ill-spent life, only, in the last line, to "jump up and hop the train." For an encore we had Papa Eating Noodle Soup which could best be described as a '"gleesome, gruesome" recitative, the chorus of each of numerous verses consisting of a realistic imitation of Papa partaking of the Soup. Mr. Gatts gave us a jig. Then Bruno who, as the boys say; "Could sing pretty good, only he don't sing nothin' but wop," favored us with Oh Maria, prefacing his performance with the earnest admonition, "No lafim! nobody!" and after that with an Italian folk dance in which he looked more like a grotesque little punchinello than ever. Our light-weight boxing champion then gave us Love's Old Sweet Song and the heavy-weight champion popularly known as Magulligan, together with Mr. Bruno rendered Bye low my Baby, antiphonal fashion. The last number was furnished by a poilu who had wandered in, in company with one of the boys. He sang a long dramatic ballad, entitled The Last Cuirassier, depicting some incident in the Franco-Prussian War. Just what the boys made of it I don't know, but to me it was intensely thrilling, not on account of the words for I couldn't catch them, but on account of the fervor, the imaginative sympathy, the martial spirit which that old fellow in his faded trench coat threw into his tones. When the show was over Pat stood up on the counter and an- nounced that as long as all the performances had been of such COMPANY A 37 superlative merit, it was impossible for the judges to decide be- tween them. So we handed out a couple of packages of " smoking" to each one of the artists, and everybody was satisfied. Once too we had a party, an athletic stunt party. There were potato-races and sack-races, string-eating contests, three-legged and obstacle-races; but the sensational, the crowning event was, of course, the pie-race. The pies which were of French manufacture had only been arranged after difficulties: consulting the houlanghre at Bourmont I had discovered that the calendar now only allows two pie-days per week, Sunday and Wednesday; since the party was to be Friday, pie was unlawful, unless — and here the law, like all good laws allowed a loop-hole — unless the pie be made with commissary flour! The pie-race was the "dark horse" on the programme. Fearing that if the boys learned beforehand of the prospective pie not only would we be mobbed by would-be con- testants but also that their interest in the rest of the programme would suffer, we had kept the pie-race a profound secret. Smuggled in when the hut was empty those pies had reposed serenely under the counter all afternoon and contrary to my fears not a boy had sniffed them! When the proper moment came the pies were placed on a board in the middle of the floor, the contestants, of whom Pat was one, knelt with their hands tied behind them. At the word go! they fell to. The hut howled. Then it was discovered that Cor- poral G. laboured under a cruel handicap; his pie was a cherry pie and every cherry had a stone in it. Half-way through his pie, Pat, jerking one hand loose, seized a large piece, plastered it on the head of his opponent opposite ; the race ended in a riot. Strangely enough, when peace was restored not a trace of pie could be found any- where, — nowhere, that is, except in the back hair of the contestants. Bourmont, January 6. Now I know how the prince in the fairy tale felt when he was bidden to climb the mountain of glass. For Bourmont Hill is sheeted with ice, and it is fairly as much as one's life is worth to attempt to go up or down. Every morning I stand and look at 3 8 BOURMONT that dizzying slide aghast, and wonder if I may possibly reach the foot alive; then assistance comes, sometimes in the shape of a French lad in sabots, sometimes as a stalwart doughboy with a sharp-pointed staff, and together the two of us go slipping, slither- ing down the hill-side. In the middle of the road yelling doughboys, seated on cakes of ice, whiz by at a mad rate of speed; long before they reach the bottom of the slope, the ice-cake splinters into bits, but the doughboy shoots on downward, sprawling, spinning like a top, while you hold your breath and gape to see that his neck isn't broken. For the French people all this supplies the sensation of a life- time; they crowd their front doors and their front yards laughing, shrieking warning or encouragement, as they watch the progress of the mad Americans up and down the hill. " If one could only have a movie of Bourmont Hill on a day like this! " sighs the Gendarme. The other day I encountered a sergeant of engineers on the hill- side. "You ought to have a sled, Little Girl," he told me. "Well why don't the engineers make me one?" I unthinkingly retorted. "Sure and they will!" he answered. Since then I have gone in terror. If the sergeant should have that sled made for me, as he likely will, why I shall have to use it. And as for starting down Bourmont Hill on a sled, I would just as soon attempt Niagara in a barrel. Ever since Christmas it has been cold, bitter cold. At the can- teen I wash my chocolate caps with the dishpan on the stove in order to keep the water fluid; hanging the dish-cloth up to dry at the corner of the counter, in a few minutes I find it stiff with ice. At night the ink-bottles freeze and then burst, spreading black ruin all around them. What to do with the still unfrozen ones is a vexing problem; I might I suppose take them home each night with me and sleep with them underneath my pillow. In the little um- brella-stand stoves the green wood, which comes in so freshly cut, that the logs have ivy still unwithered twined around them, simply COMPANY A 39 will not burn, and the stoves will smoke, mon Dieu, how they will smoke ! Every time the wind blows, the stove-pipes, secured shakily by the canvas walls, become disjointed, parting company with the stoves, and thenthe clouds pour forth as if we housed a captive Etna. In the barracks the boys teU me their shoes freeze to the floor over night. They have taken to sleeping two in one bunk for the sake of warmth. Blanket-stealing has been elevated to the rank of a deadly crime. Even the problem of keeping warm by day is an acute one. The boys who have money to burn are spending it to purchase extravagantly priced fur-lined gloves. The boys who can't afford them, wait until they see somebody lay a pair down. The taking of baths has become an act of heroism. "Took a bath today," growls a lad. "Think I ought to get a service stripe for that." While another boy grins; " Gee but I'm feelin' rich ! Took a bath today and found two pair o'socks and three shirts I didn't know I had!" "Now ain't you sorry you cut off the bottom of your coat!" a long-coated doughboy taunts an abbreviated one. "I told you not to. First, you're out of luck at Reveille 'cause the Top Kick can see you ain't got no leggin's on. An' now before you know it, you'll be havin' chilblains in your knees." "You should worry," growls back the short-coated one. "I couldn't stand that thing flappin' 'round my feet no longer. An' most of the other guys done it too." Which is true. Before this cold spell set in, half the boys in the company had taken a slice off the bottom of their overcoats, a procedure which leads to an odd effect en masse as each has chosen his own length which means everything from knees to ankles, and drives the exasparated Loots to demanding; "D'you want to know what you look like? Well, you look like heUI" In the village streets snow-ball fights are in order. As soon as the boys start an offensive, all the inhabitants of the Faubourg de France run out and put up their shutters. Better to sit in the dark while the battle rages than to risk a pane of precious window- 40 B0URM0NT glass! Yesterday out at Iloud the boys caught the Y Secretary, a meek and mild little man, in the road and started to give him a thorough pelting. He ran for the hut, they chased him, he gained his refuge, locked the door after him; they proceeded to heap about half a ton of snow against it, making it immovable. The unhappy man had to remove a window frame and crawl out through the open- ing, then spend the rest of the afternoon digging out his hut door. Here at our billet our little pea-green porcelain stcve with the lavendar thistles growing over it has proved to be more ornamental then useful. Since the Gendarme is one of your naturally efficient souls, I feel that such practical details as building fires belong to her. If she wishes to coax and cozen the wretched thing for an hour on end, well and good. As for me I prefer to go and hug the cook stove in Madame's parlor. French fires don't burn the way Ameri- can fires do, I tell Madame. But to her the matter is quite simple. The stove, she says, doesn't understand English. Today I met the sergeant of engineers. Some imp impelled me to question jovially; " Where's that sled you promised me?" "It's almost done." My knees went weak beneath me. Tonight I confided my apprehensions to the Gendarme. She looked at me with an unpitying eye. "The more goose you, for encouraging him," was her cold com- fort. "What are you going to do about it?" "I'm going to pray for a thaw," I told her. Bourmont, January 8. Life at the Maison Chaput doesn't flow quite so peacefully these days as it did before Christmas. The disturbing factor is four- year old Max, left by his mother to visit his grandparents. Max is a spoiled child according to the Chaput point of view. He is ex- pected to walk a chalk line with his little red felt toes, and failing this, he is spanked early and often. It is unlucky for him that the fagots by the hearth afford a continual supply of handy switches. "The little Jesus will never bring you anything again at Christ- COMPANY A 41 mas," warns Grandmamma; " never again! And neither will the Pere Nicolas!" Then she appeals to me; "All the little children in America are always well-behaved, are they not?" "But yes, certainly!" I reply, avoiding Max's eye. Coming home in the evening I often stop on my way back to the chilly Salle des Assiettes, in response to an urgent invitation, to warm myself at the fire-place. Old Monsieur will be sitting on one side of the hearth and I on the other, while Baby Max toasts his toes in their scarlet slippers on a stool between us. Sometimes they will sing for me. Monsieur had a fine voice when he was young and even now he sings with a delightful air, a sort of inde- scribable old gallantry that is a joy to me. When he and Max sing together the effect is irresistible. "Now we will sing Le Drapeau de la France" cries Monsieur. "We must stand for this!" And Monsieur in his gay red neck cloth and little Max in his blue checked pinafore stand up before the fire and sing with their hearts in the words. "Saluons le drapeau de la France" When they come to that line, Monsieur le Comman- dant veteran of 1870 and baby Max salute together. Then, " Vive la France! " I cry, and " Vive la France!" they echo. When new troops pass through town Max must always run to the door to cry ll Bon jour les Americains !" a salutation which is often followed I fear by a request for cigarettes, for Max, baby that he is, enjoys a smoke, much to his grandparents' amusement. Among the chinaware at the Maison Chaput there is a funny little jug which the Gendarme and I use for fetching hot water. It is made in the shape of a fat frog with a blue waistcoat and a pipe in one of his webbed feet. I had thought it was the famous frog who would a-wooing go, but Monsieur has his own explanation. It is the original St. Thiebault toad he declares, to tease me. Every time I come to draw a little hot water from the stove he must crack the self-same joke. "C'est le crapaud de Saint Thiebault" he cries and baby Max pipes up; " II a sol}!" Yesterday as I was passing through the front room on my way 42 BOURMONT to the canteen Monsieur stopped me to draw me into conversation. There were several neighbors present. They gathered in a ring around me. I could see they had some weighty question to put to me. After a moment's hesitation it came out: "Pourquoi," they demanded, "pourquoi, does the American sol- dier blow his nose with his fingers? " I stared, taken aback. In order to make their meaning quite clear they illustrated with expressive gestures. "Why," I stammered, "does the poilu never do such a thing?" "But never!" they declared in chorus. "The poilu always uses his handkerchief!" And again they illustrated in pantomime. I labored to explain; the French climate had given the boys colds, and the question of laundry and clean handkerchiefs pre- sented difficulties "But," declared old Monsieur sagely, "in America I have heard it is the custom. There all the haut monde, it is said, lawyers, doctors, ministers, statesmen, blow their noses in that manner!" This was too much. I hurried from the room. This morning Monsieur accused me of being a coquette. Hotly I denied the charge. But why then, he rejoined triumphantly, had I asked for a looking-glass in my bed-room? Bourmont, January 9. Company A is going to China! Somebody heard somebody say that somebody told him that the Chaplain had said so. The boys are all excitement over the idea. "Won't that be jolly! You'll all be coming home with little shiny pigtails hanging down your backs!" I tease them. "Yes sir! an' we'll learn to eat our chow with chopsticks!" I have solemnly promised the boys that if Company A goes to China I will go too. What's more I will learn to make Chop Suey for them. I have always wanted to visit China. Thus does the army rumor make sport of us. Reports of this sort incessantly spring up among us, flourish for a day, to be for- gotten on the morrow. It is just a sign I suppose of the restless- COMPANY A 43 ness that is rife among the boys, the nostalgia, the rebellion at the grinding monotony of their lives. Half the men in the company, it seems, have gone to their officers begging to be transferred into one of the two divisions that have already been in the lines. "I'm sick o' this kind o' life; what I came over here for was to fight," they growl. In the canteen they look at the French National Loan poster which has the Statue of Liberty on it, and speculate as to their chances of ever seeing her again. "Oh boy! but I bet there'll be some noise on board ship when we catch sight o' that ol' gal again!" "They wouldn't be breakin' my heart if they gave out orders tonight to start for home termorrer." The chorus groans assent. "No sir!" speaks up Private Gatts, "I don't want to go home until I've killed some of them Germans." "Aw, come off," rises the incredulous jeer; "you know, if they'd let you, you'd start out to walk to Saint Nazaire tonight if you had to carry your full pack an' your rifle an' your extra shoes." To beguile the tedium they indulge in what appears to be, next to crap-shooting, the most popular indoor sport of the A. E. F. — mustache raising. I don't believe there's a man in the company outside of Cummings and Maggioni who hasn't tried his luck at it. Sometimes it seems as though an epidemc of young mustaches will break out overnight as it were. The second lieutenants jeer and witticize in vain. There is one squad who have solemnly pledged themselves to remain mustachioed until they "can the Kaiser;" but for the most part, the little "Charlies" are fleeting affairs that come and go according to their owner's whim. This makes it quite confusing for me, because no sooner have I got to know a lad with a mustache by sight, than he shaves it off and alters his appearance so that I have to learn him all over again. But even the excitement of raising a mustache and having your picture taken and sending it back home to your best girl and then waiting to hear what she will say about it, affords only a brief diversion. And when that is done, we are face to face again with the stark 44 BOURMONT sheer stupidity of drilling and hiking, hiking and drilling, day after day, week in and week out, in the slush, the mud, and the rain. "Another day, another dollar," remarks my friend Mr. Brady with philosophic resignation as he comes in from walking post at night, "Betsy the Toad-sticker," as he familiarly terms his rifle, over his shoulder. "I sure was strong on the patriotic stuff when I enlisted," mourns a lad cast in a less stoic mould, "but since I got over here 111 tell the world my patriotism is all shot to pieces." "Who called this here land Sunny France, I'd like to know?" is the indignant question which someone is bound to propose at least once a day. "I've only seen the sun twice since I've been here," complained one lad, "and then it was kind of mildewed." "It stopped raining for three hours the other day," remarked another, "an' I wrote home to my folks an' told 'em what a long dry spell we'd been having." Altogether we are inclined to take a very pessimistic view at present of our surroundings. "This land is a thousand years behind the times," is the re- iterated comment, and who can blame them, having seen nothing of France but these tiny primitive mud-and-muck villages? "It ain't worth fightin' for. Why if I owned this country I'd give it to the Germans and apologize to 'em." "It ain't the country, it's the people in it," asserted another lad darkly. While the Tall Kentuckian declared, "When I came to France, the height of my ambition was to kill a German. Now the height of my ambition is to kill a Frenchman." What can one say to them? I try fatuously to comfort by re- minding them of the good time coming when we all get home again. I paint rosy pictures of a grand parade of the division up Fifth Avenue, but they are sceptical. " Huh ! That won't be for us ! All the fuss will be for the National Guard and the draft guys. The reg'lars don't never get no credit." COMPANY A 45 Then someone will start to hum the song which goes; "O why didn't I wait to be drafted? Why didn't I wait to be cheered?" "Well I'll tell the world that you deserve the credit!" Anyway Company A has settled one point: if they ever march up Fifth Avenue I am to march with them. Bourmont, January ii. The "convicts" are out of quarantine, and none the worse it seems for the experience. Yet my family is still depleted. Forty boys from the company have been sent out on a wood-chopping detail. Detachments from each of the four companies in rotation are being sent out into the forest to cut fuel for the use of the First Battalion and now it is our turn. The boys, we learn, are billeted in a twelfth century fortress in a tiny village at the forest's edge. From time to time some of them hike the four miles in to Saint Thiebault after the day's work is done, in order to get a cup of hot chocolate and to tease a candle out of me. For the chateau boasts none of the modern luxuries of heat and light. "What do you do in the evenings?" I asked Mr. Gatts. "Sit in the cafe. It's the only place there is to go." "I'm sorry." "Well you needn't worry about the boys drinkin'. They ain't none of them got no money. All they can do is to sit and watch the Frenchies." Indeed such a long time has passed since our last payday that the whole company is feeling the pinch of poverty. Canteen sales have narrowed down to the three essentials; chocolate, cigarettes and chewing gum. I am running accounts on my personal re- sponsibility, giving them "jawbone" as the boys say, a proceeding at which our Secretary looks with a disapproving eye. To be sure the air is full of rumours of impending payday but meanwhile there is no disguising the fact that the great majority is "dead broke." Says Sergeant X to Sergeant Z, a boy with a curious cast of 46 BOURMONT countenance; "Say, Bill, do you remember the time I paid ten cents to see you in a cage at Bamum's? Well I want that dime back now." Another lad in answer to the appeal of "got a cent?" replies with feeling; " One cent? Why man, if I had a cent I'd go to Paris!" They have court-martialed the lieutenant who beat Malotzzi. His punishment is to be transferred to another regiment. Bourmont, January 14. Madame is sick and I am worried. It isn't so much that she is dangerously ill as that she is dangerously old. She lies in the big blue room upstairs, looking like a patient aged Madonna, without a fire, and with no one to look after her. Monsieur it seems has made up his mind to her demise and piously resigned himself. I called in an army doctor. "She's pretty low," he said, "but it isn't medicine she needs so much as nursing." I informed Monsieur. He must get a woman to come in and take care of her. But there was no such woman. He must try to find one. But no, it was impossible! "Well at least, you can make a fire in her room," I told him. As for La Petite , she has proved herself a broken reed. Lacking Madame's rigid eyes upon her, she has become lazy and negligent. Moreover she is indubitably in love with some doughty doughboy, the proof being that she spends the time when she should be gathering the harvest of dust from the Salle des Assiettes in copying English phrases from our books on to the Gendarme's pink blotting-paper. Yesterday we found "Welcome Americans" scrawled all over it. Meanwhile Monsieur seems to consider himself as qualifying for a martyr's crown because he gets his own meals and washes his own dishes. "Mais, regardez Mademoiselle!" he calls to me as I pass through the living-room, and flourishes the dish-cloth at me with a tragic air. So between excursions to the canteen I am trying to play nurse to Madame, and a pretty poor one I make, I fear. Worse still, I must act as interpreter for the Doctor, whose French is COMPANY A 47 absolutely nil, at every visit and since my scanty stock of French phrases hardly includes a sick-room vocabulary I am often abso- lutely at a loss. But we muddle through somehow and the Doctor gets his reward when we stop to speak to Monsieur in the front-room afterwards, for then Monsieur must bring out a bottle of cham- pagne and together they sit in front of the fire and toast each other. Yesterday the Doctor prescribed fresh eggs. I told Monsieur. But there were none in Bourmont he declared. "Very well," I said, "then I'll get them." I started out to search. I knew of course that eggs in France these days were difficult. In some places the Americans have been forbidden, on account of the scarcity, to buy either eggs or chickens; a ruling which officers have been known to evade by the simple expedient of renting laying hens. But no such prohibition exists at present in Saint Thiebault. Just the other day a lad told me he had consumed twelve fried eggs at one sitting. "Yes and Corporal G. ate more than I did." " How many did he eat? " "Oh, just thirteen." "No wonder," I observed, "that the French talk about la fa- mine!" I started a house-to-house canvas of Saint Thiebault only to be met by a shake of the head and "Pas des oeufs" everywhere I went. Finally back at the canteen I put the question in despair to the boys. "Have you been to the tobacco shop?" they in- quired. So to the tobacco shop I hurried and sure enough there they were, all one wanted at the rate of seven francs a dozen. Last night Madame had an egg-nogg and this morning an omelette. Now the Doctor says that she is better. Bourmont, January 17. If my fairy god-mother should lend me her magic wand, the very first thing I would wish for would be a dinner, a real dinner just like Mother used to cook, for Company A. It would start with turkey and cranberry sauce and end with several kinds of pie, ice-cream and chocolate layer cake. There would be no soup on 48 BOURMONT the menu. Such a meal I am sure would do more to raise the morale of Company A than the news of a smashing allied victory. It is the everlasting sameness, the perpetual reiteration of a certain few articles of food, I suppose, that makes the boys' "chow" so de- pressing. "I've eaten so much bacon since I've been in the army," re- marked one boy mournfully, "that I'm ashamed to look a pig in the face." There is one question which the whole A. E. F. would like to have answered. They've "got the bacon," but what became of the ham? Far more hated than the bacon, however, is the "slum," a word which Pat informs me is derived from the " slumgullion" of the hobo. It is this "slum" that gives the doughboy his horror of anything like soup. "When I get back to New York," said a lad to me the other day, "I'm going to go into a real swell hotel and order a big dish o' slum. Then I'm going to order a regular dinner, beefsteak and oysters and all the fixings, and then I'm going to sit and laugh at the slum." Pat came in with a whoop after dinner yesterday. "We had a change today," he sang out, "they put a pickle in the beans!" This noon he bounced in again. "We had a change today," he shouted, "they cut the beans lengthwise instead of cuttin' them acrosst." I made a fatal error. "Don't you like beans?" I asked. "Why I'm very fond of them. I wish they'd give them to us at our mess once in a while." Pat looked at me with his sharp eyes narrowing. "D'you mean it?" "Why of course I do!" He turned and walked out of the hut. Two minutes later he returned with a hunk of bread and a mess-kit brimfull of beans; he laid them on the counter in front of me. I gasped but did my best to rise to the occasion. I was delighted to see those beans, COMPANY A 49 I assured him. I had just been starting out to go to mess; a little bird had told me they were to have roast pork, French fries, and peach pie for dinner, but now I would stay at the hut and eat beans instead. Then I tasted the beans. They were as hard as bullets, they stuck in my throat; I had never known anything could be quite so awful. But Pat's eyes were upon me. There was nothing for it but to swallow those beans. So swallow them I did, every last one, and there were positively at least a thousand. Then I washed the mess-kit and returned it to friend Pat with effusive thanks. At least, I complimented myself, I had been game. Tonight, just as I was starting out for my supper of toast and chocolate with the little old ladies of the Rue Dieu, Pat sud- denly appeared on the other side of the counter. "We had 'em again tonight," he announced joyfully, "and I thought since you were so fond of 'em," — he pushed another mess-kit full of beans across the counter. I glared at him. I had vainly been trying to recover from the dinner beans all afternoon. "Take those things away," I snapped, "I don't want to lay eyes on another bean as long as ever I live!" Pat had called my bluff. For the last week Company A has had guests in the mess-hall. Several French soldiers have been sent here to instruct the boys in some special drill; it was arranged that they eat and sleep with the Americans. Dreary as the boys find their chow, it proved a treat to the poilus who evidently spread the news of their good fortune among their friends in the vicinity, for day by day the number of Frenchmen messing with Company A was mysteriously increased. "Yes sir!" the indignant Mess Sergeant declared to me. "They started in with five and now they've grown to be fifteen. I can't tell one from t'other because all these frogs look alike to me, and they know as how I can't sling their lingo. That's a nice thing for them to be putting over on me!" But yesterday he got his chance to get even. He caught one of the Frenchmen putting a piece of bread in his pocket. It is of course a military offense to carry food out of the mess-hall. "I just sailed right into that guy" — the Mess Sergeant is a So BOURMONT large and husky specimen — "and I sure did wipe up the floor some with him. And since then the whole gang of 'em has been scared stiff. Those frogs just watch me all the time. There ain't a minute when I'm in the mess-hall that one of 'em takes his eyes off me." The other day, they tell me, one of the boys in the company, possessed of a practical turn, employed his newly-issued "tin derby " as a kettle in which to boil some eggs. The delicacy proved dear. Betrayed by the blackened helmet, he was tried and fined twenty dollars. Bourmont, January 20. I'm off for Paris! My eyes have been in a horrid state for the last week. I have had all the doctors in the neighborhood treating them and they only get worse and worse. The Chief is going up to Paris tomorrow and has decided that the best thing to do is to take me along to see a specialist. Madame is so much better that I don't feel uneasy at leaving her. But I hate to desert the boys, especially as the hut is in such a state. Yesterday we had a storm and the wind almost wrecked our tent. There was one moment while I was out at dinner, when such a gust hit it, that, as the boys said, " She sure seemed a goner." At that moment there was a stampede for the door, the boys shoot- ing out of the tent "just like seeds from an orange when you squeeze it." But thanks to the Secretary and a crowd of boys who got out and hung for dear life on to the guy ropes, the tent came through damaged but still standing. When I returned after mess I found our hut with two great gaping rents torn in the outer walls and the inner lining all ripped loose and hanging down from the ceiling, so that one felt exactly as if one were inside a punctured zeppelin. Reports coming in this morning from other points on the divi- sion state that two tents actually did collapse during the tempest, and that one man, caught beneath the wreckage, had his collar- bone broken. So we can count ourselves lucky. Tonight I said au 'voir to Company A, telling them that if pay- day should occur during my absence, I hoped they all would be COMPANY A 51 very, very good. Some of the boys lugubriously predicted that I would never return, while others darkly insinuated that they suspected I was "goin' to Paris to git married." To show them what my intentions honestly were, I inquired if there were any errands I could do for them in the city. Corporal G. looked at me, stammered, hesitated. There was something he would like, only he didn't want to bother me. What was it? He paused, grew red, then blurted it out. "If it ain't too much trouble, could you send me a picture post- card while you're away? I ain't never had a post-card from Paris." H6pital Claude-Bernard Porte D'Aubervilliers, Paris, January 25. This is a hideous hospital. They wake you up in the middle of the night to wrap you in a mustard poultice. They wake you up in the wee sma' hours and order you to brush your teeth. And nobody in the whole establishment from head-doctor to scrub-lady knows a word of English; except the night-nurse and she knows "mumpsss!" like that she says it, "MUMPSSSSS!" Not that I have them; I have the measles. I don't know where I got them. They were, so far as I am aware, almost the only known malady which we didn't have at Bourmont. Probably some lad who was passing through the town and stopped in at the canteen gave them to me. It was undoubtedly the measles that were affecting my eyes; sometimes it seems they act that way. They sent me to this hospital because it was the only hospital in Paris admitting women that had room for me: known officially as the city hospital for contagious diseases, among Americans it passes as " the pest-house." They think I'm a weird one here, because I want my window open. Twenty-nine times a day at least an infirmiere will come hurrying in and bang it shut and twenty-nine times a day I crawl out of bed and open it again. The nursing here is all done by infirtnttres, or untrained women 52 BOURMONT under the direction of two real nurses, one in charge of this wing during the day, the other during the night. Some of these infirm- ieres go about in curl papers, others wear sabots. They mean well enough, but they are overworked, and frankly peasant types, with little education and almost no notion of cleanliness or of much else that is supposed to pertain to nursing. Last night a fat old soul without many teeth came waddling into my room to have a look at that interesting curiosity, la pauvre petite Dame Americaine. When she saw my open window she was so overcome with aston- ishment that she hurried out and fetched a companion to regard the phenomenon. The two of them stood and stared at it and dis- cussed the matter between themselves for quite a while, then the fat one turned to me and remarked with a toothless but engaging smile ; it was very warm in America where I lived, was it not? When I replied that, instead, it was much colder in winter there than here in Paris, they looked aghast and flatly incredulous. Their only explanation of the matter had been, it seemed, that I was accus- tomed to living in the tropics and just didn't have sense enough to suit my habits to the atmosphere. Just outside the hospital there is a munitions factory. At night the light over the front door shines into my room and day and night the machinery keeps up an incessant thudding hum that says as plain as words over and over and over: Kill the Bodies. Kill the Boches. Kill the Bodies. Once in a long while the machines stop for a few moments in order, I suppose, to catch their breath and then I grow dreadfully worried, for I know that if someone doesn't keep on killing the Boches every second, they will be breaking through the lines and pouring in over France in great drowning grey waves. January 27. I haven't got the measles after all; I have the Ger- man measles, only they don't call it that in French I am glad to say. At first I was so very red and speckled that they thought I had the rougeole, but now they have decided it is only the rubeole after all. A concourse of doctors considered me yesterday morning and pronounced the verdict. "But then," I demanded, "if it's COMPANY A S3 only the rubeole can't I be leaving tout de suite? " For the French do not consider quarantine necessary for the rubeole. " Eight days," they answered, and when I expostulated they turned on their collective heels and marched callously out the door, each one hold- ing up eight fingers apiece as a parting rejoinder. Last night I resisted a great temptation. This place is full of doors with little glass panes in them. As I lay awake in bed in the middle of the night, a wild desire grew on me to seize my big green bottle of mineral water by the neck and see how many panes of glass I could account for before they nabbed me. I had a per- fect vision of myself, flying down the hall in my little flour-sack chemise of a night-gown, long legs stretching out beneath, going zip, bang, right and left into those window panes. I have seldom wanted to do anything quite so badly. And then just to top off with I was going to wring the interne's neck. He is a little shrimp of a man — that interne, with no chin and a sort of scrawny picked-chicken neck, a neck that gets on one's nerves. When they sent me to this hospital I comforted myself with the thought that I would at least learn a little French while staying here, but the only thing I have learned so far is that gargariser means gargle and any goose might have guessed that. January 28. The Chief has sent me a rose-pink cyclamen. It is a lovely thing and very elaborately done up with pink crepe paper and a large bow of shell-pink ribbon. Now I am no longer an object of any interest. Every last doctor, nurse, interne and infirmiere who comes into my room to take a look at la petite Mees, immediately turns his or her back on me and admires the cyclamen instead. I gather such objects are rare in French hospitals, for they examine and discuss it at the greatest length, always winding up with the remark that it must have "cost very dear." Not having anything else to do I lie with my eyes shut and think. And of course I have been thinking chiefly about Company A. I have thought among other things of a play, or rather a dramatic charade in three acts, which we might give in the hut. It is to be 54 BOURMONT entitled Slum. In the first act, — BUI — three doughboys hit on a plan to encompass the Kaiser's death and so become rich by gain- ing the proffered reward: — they will send him a dish of slum! The second act, — et — shows a room in the Potsdam palace with Kaiser Bill and His Side Whiskers, the Lord High Chancellor, discussing the food situation. The slum appears; the Kaiser partakes of it and falls writhing to the floor. The last act shows a typical barn- loft billet, with rats squeaking, chickens clucking et cetera, where the Soldiers Three of the first act have their lodging. They receive the tidings of the Kaiser's death; wild rejoicings ensue, as in fancy they spend their fortunes; only to be cut short by the discovery that the cook who made the slum has already claimed the reward. I think we can stage it successfully, though the costumes for the Kaiser and His Side Whiskers present some difficulties. One thing only troubles me; will it hurt the Mess Sergeant's feelings? January 30. They have relented. They have shortened my stay. I am to be let out tomorrow, but I must reposer a few days before going back to work. Bother! I haven't heard anything from Bourmont for ten days and I am full of uneasy apprehensions. Since I have been in the hospital the cyclamen has been the only word I have had from the outside world. I have been cut off as completely as if I were in a tomb. Ah well, some day I'll get back to the hut again I suppose, and when I do, if those boys aren't almost half as glad to see me as I am to see them, why I'll know that some other canteen lady has been surreptitiously stealing their affections, and I shall put poison in her soup. Hopital Claude-Bernard, Paris, January 31. I have been in a big air raid; this is just how it all happened: It was a white night in the hospital for me. I had lain for hours, it seemed, in the little blue room watching through the glass panes of my door the coiffed head of a young infirmiere bent over her embroidery. She sat outside my door because there was a light in the hall just there. Suddenly my drowsy ears were pierced by COMPANY A 55 a long weird hoot. In an instant the girl had leaped to her feet and switched off the light, then she turned and ran down the hall. A moment later and the building was in darkness. I jumped from my bed and ran to the window. The light in front of the munitions factory was out, there seemed an uncanny silence, the machinery had been stopped. I hurried to the door. The corridor was full of hastening forms, infirmieres, their loose white robes showing dimly in the grey light. "Qu'est ce qui arrive?" I demanded. 11 Les Bodies!" The night nurse was peering from my window. "It's the first warning," she whispered. "See! the lights of Paris still shine." But even as we looked, the light across the sky that was Paris flickered, dimmed, flashed out. At the same moment two great golden stars rose over the munitions factory. " Les avions!" cried the night nurse. And all the time the sirens kept up their ghostly wailing, like nothing one could imagine except a vast host of lost souls. Then the guns began. A moment later a crashing thud told that a bomb had fallen in our neighborhood. The night nurse drew me hurriedly into the hall. "Lie down against the wall, — close — like this," she ordered. Up and down the corridor every space by the wall was occupied by the huddled form of an infirmiere buried beneath a mattress. The night nurse, who had a whole heap of mattresses to herself, pushed one across to me. I lay on the top, finding it more com- fortable that way. The bombs were falling nearer. A child in one of the wards woke up and began to wail fretfully. No one heeded her. There was a flash and then a tearing thud that shook the hospital. I had one ghastly moment, a thrill of panic terror at our utter helplessness as we lay there awaiting what seemed the inevitable coming of destruction. The moment passed. I got up and slipped down the side corridor to the glass door. The sky was full of moving lights; 56 BOURMONT some burned with a steady brilliancy, some flickered and went out like fireflies, a few flashed red. There was no telling which was friend or foe. They seemed to be proceeding in all directions with- out plan or purpose. The air pulsated with the humming drone of their motors. They were like a swarm of angry hornets I thought. Across the road, standing on the top of a high wall, in sharp sil- houette against the sky, three poilus stood to watch. Every now and then an infirmiere, curiosity outweighing caution, would leave her hiding-place and creep to the door beside me only to burrow like a bug, a moment later, underneath her mattress once more. " Mees! N'avez-vous pas peur? " "Maisnon!" "Ah, vous etes un soldat!" I went back to my room and climbed out on the window-sill. At first I thought the lights of Paris had been turned on again, but this time they were color of rose. As I looked the pink flush deep- ened, grew ruddy, flamed across the sky. I called the night nurse. "Cest une incendie" she wailed staccato. "Quel malheurl" So Paris was on fire. As we watched two big puffs of white smoke rose over the muni- tions factory, spread into a cloud, drifted slowly toward us. The night nurse sniffed, then shut the window hurriedly. "La gaz" she whispered. I questioned it but left the window shut. An aeroplane swung low over the munitions factory, so near that it looked like a great lazy fish with the rose fight from below shining on its belly. Was it friend or enemy? The bombs were dropping close again. One could see the flashes and feel the jar of the explosions which made the windows rattle. "Oh les sales Bochest" "Ohlalal" The agonized wails sounded half stifled from beneath the mat- tresses. "Taisezl Ecoutezl" It was the night nurse's voice. The front door slammed. A fat infirmiere in a badly shattered COMPANY A 57 state of nerves stumbled down the hall weeping out unintelligible woes. At my mattress she came to a standstill, then ducked and tried to crawl beneath it; failing, she sat down on top of me. I ventured a polite protest, — in vain. The night nurse heard me. She emerged from beneath her heap. Followed a scene dramatic, unforgettable. Mattresses scattered to each side of her, heedless of the falling bombs, with Gallic passion she proceeded to point out to the sobbing infirmiere the shortcomings of her behaviour. But the fat lady proved unrepentant, her terror at the bombs superseding even her awe of the night nurse. She sat tight, hold- ing her ground. She even ventured to answer back. The scene grew more intense. After I had heard the night nurse discharge the infirmiere some six times over, feeling a trifle out of place, I managed to crawl from beneath and made my way back to the window. No more bombs were falling but the guns still barked. As I watched, a burning plane looking like a great tinsel ball seared its way through the sky, falling just to the right of Paris. '"Pray God it is a Boche!" I thought. A round-eyed infirmiere peered in at the door, staring curiously at me. "Meesf Vous allez retourner en AmeriqueV 1 1 Mais out! A pres la guerre! ' ' The red glare over Paris was fading out. The machines in the munitions factory began to throb once more. In the grey light at the window I looked at my watch. It was fifteen minutes past one. I turned to crawl into bed feeling cold and very sleepy. Some one touched my sleeve; it was the night nurse. She was staring out the window with eyes that saw nothing. "And how many little children will be dead in the morning do you think?" she asked. Bourmont, February 5. The blow that I somehow dimly apprehended while I was in the hospital has fallen. Last night late I arrived from Paris. The first thing I learned was, that with the addition of some new workers a general shuffle of the women at Headquarters was to take place. 5 8 BOURMONT This morning the Chief called us together and gave us our new assignments. The Gendarme and I are to leave Bourmont. Since I have been away regimental Headquarters have been moved from Saint Thiebault to Goncourt, a town about two miles to the south, and the whole regiment with the exception of the First Battalion concentrated there. The Y. at Goncourt has had a hard time of it. Originally it occupied a barracks; then the regimental machine-gun company moved in and the Y. must move out. So the Y settled itself in an old stone mill by the Meuse, only to have the military authorities decide that they needed that mill for a guard-house. So once more the Y. moved, this time to a little old house in the centre of the village; and here according to last reports it still is, for the simple reason that nobody else has any use for the little old house. Meanwhile, however, they are putting up a Big Hut which is to be ready in from one to three weeks, all according to who is making the estimate. It is to Goncourt that the Gendarme and I have been assigned. According to the Chief this is a " promo tion." "It's the largest, the most important place on the division now," he declared; "I'm sending you there because you made good at Saint Thiebault." But this little piece of taffy doesn't seem to help matters a bit. The only way to look at it is that it's a case of the greatest good for the greatest number, and of course numerically Goncourt is about ten times as important as Saint Thiebault. And anyway it wouldn't do the least good to kick against the pricks because when all is said and done one is under orders like a soldier. After all it isn't as if I were going to Greenland or to Timbuctoo. And yet at even only two miles distance, so tied to the work one must be, one might almost as well be in a different planet. As for Saint Thiebault, they are going to have to do with just a man secretary there. The place is too small, the Chief says, to be allowed more than one worker. We won't be moving for several days yet. I'm not going to say a word about it to Company A until the very last moment. I hate partings. CHAPTER II GONCOURT THE DOUGHBOYS Goncourt, February ii. , The little old house which now harbors the Y. formerly served, it seems, as guard-house. To some it must have a strangely fami- liar air. Downstairs there are two small rooms; the front one stone-paved, with a dark carved cupboard in one corner which formerly enclosed the family bed, and a huge fireplace; the back one with a dirt floor over which uncertain boards have shakily been laid. The front room we use for the canteen, the back, with four rough tables, serves as a make-shift writing room. The walls are dim with smoke and grime, the windows in both rooms lack half their panes, yet the odd little place has an atmosphere, a charm all its own. Upstairs soldiers are billeted. When the din of business dies down in the canteen, one can hear the crisp rattle of dice as the boys shoot craps on the floor overhead. In accordance with military regulations here we cannot open the canteen until four in the afternoon. But a large part of the morning is easily spent in cleaning out the hut and arranging the stock for the afternoon and evening onslaught. At Saint Thie- bault the detail that " policed up" the camp in the morning swept out our tent for us, but here one wields one's own broom and shovel, — for first of all one must shovel out the mud that's on the floor! Cleaning the canteen, however, I find, though a dirty, is quite a remunerative job, for in the heaps of litter on the floor money lurks. According to the ethics of the game if money is found back of the counter it belongs in the till, but if in front it goes to the finder. Sometimes the find is five centimes, sometimes fifty and once it was five francs! The litter — chocolate wrappers, 6o GONCOURT orange peels and cigarette boxes — is all swept into the fireplace and then touched off with a match; a regular bon-fire ensues. This morning we had left the front door open; immediately the fire was started a throng of villagers crowded around to look in. They were scandalized at the conflagration. The house was old, they cried; we would set the chimney on fire, we would burn up the building, we would burn down the whole town! One ancient and portly dame in a frenzy of protest dashed into the room and fairly danced about the hearth, shaking her apron at the flames and calling for ashes to cover them. But before she could get her ashes the fire died down and the excitement with it. The Gendarme and I are billeted in a tiny house just at the vil- lage edge. Our low second story looks down upon the street, so narrow that it seems one could almost reach out and touch hands with the houses opposite. But what a street it is! Underneath our low window the whole world goes by; American officers on horse- back, French officers in limousines, American mule teams, French wood teams with three white horses harnessed one in front of the other, and always the troops; going by at dawn in the semi-dark- ness, their rhythmic incessant tramp weaving itself into one's waking dreams, passing by at noon, swinging back down the hill as it grows dusk, singing snatches of song as they tramp. As I lie a-bed in the morning before getting up to peer out the window into the yellow misty atmosphere I can always calculate the exact state of the weather by the amount of squelch which those march- ing boots make in the muddy road. Company H is billeted on this same street with us. The first morning after we arrived the Gendarme and I were startled out of sleep by First Call blown directly underneath our window. Hardly had the last note sounded when a shout fit to wake the dead went up. "Get to hell up, all of you! Rise and shine!" Followed a tremendous banging and kicking at all the stable doors along the street accompanied by a torrent of vivid and spicy ad- monitions. The Gendarme and I gasped and chuckled. This was THE DOUGHBOYS 61 rich. Were we always to be awakened in so picturesque a fashion? But the next morning we listened in vain. First Call was blown at the far end of the street and followed by a solemn silence; and so it has been ever since. Now that American ladies are known to be living on the street Company H must get up decorously. Goncoxjrt, February 12. The fireplace is easily the feature of our funny little hut. Around this at night the lads crowd perched on packing-boxes to smoke, chew gum and gossip. As the first mad rush of business at the canteen dies down a little I edge up towards the fireplace in order to get a wee share in the conversation. They have caught a spy! One of the cooks in F Company. He was a deserter from the German Army some one said. They caught him putting dope in the slum. The doctors were analyzing it now. It's a wonder the whole company wasn't poisoned. Yes, and they found plans of the camp in his pocket too. He hasn't eaten a thing since they arrested him. All he does is just to walk up and down the guard-house. Seems as if he were kind of crazy. And so they gossip. A sad-eyed bugler remarks to me that he'd be a rich man if he only had all the hob-nailed shoes that had been thrown at him. Another boy wonders what he'd do if he had " both arms shot off and then the gas alarm sounded." And always they must be rowing about their respective states. "Neebraska! Where's Neebraska? Is that in the United States or Canada? " "Noo Hampshire! Huh! There ain't nothin' but mountains there. Why my old man told me that when they let the cows out to grass there they had to put stilts on one side of 'em so they won't fall off'n the pasture." Then they turn on me. "Boston! When you get ten miles from Boston you can smell the beans bakin'." "But I don't come from Boston," I protest. "Well there ain't nothin' much in Massachusetts outsider Bos- 62 GONCOURT ton. Why the state of Noo Hampshire is goin' to rent the rest o' Massachusetts for a duck-yard." And so it goes. "Gee! but it's good to get into one shop where you don't have to talk frog talk!" exclaimed one lad tonight. "I've just heard the greatest compliment for you," another lad declares solemnly, " the greatest compliment that could possibly be paid any woman." "Why, what was it?" "I just heard a feller say; 'My! don't she look different from the French girls!'" A flushed-faced lad leans over my end of the counter; "You know to talk to an American girl like this again, it's like, it's like— " Again and again he tries only to become helplessly inarticulate. Then pulling a large bunch of letters "from lady friends" from his pocket, nothing will do but he must tell me about each one. Finally in a fit of prodigal generosity he bestows a handful on me, "Because I'm an American and you're one too." As he makes the presentation something falls to the floor with a little click. We search among the litter on the floor, the lad on all fours; finally the lost is found, — a broken bit of comb about two inches and a quarter long. This is a happy chance, he explains, for he is com- pany barber and with the company comb gone E Company would be out of luck. Always our presence here is something that seems so strange to them as to be almost incredible. "Will you please tell me," asked a serious-looking lad tonight, "what consideration could possibly induce two American girls to come to a place like this?" Continually I am encountering boys who are sure that they've "seen me somewhere." "Say, didn't you use to live in Milwaukee?" "Haven't I seen you in Seattle? Well, if it warn't you, it was somebody that looked just like you!" THE DOUGHBOYS 63 I suppose it is simply because I look American that I look familiar to them. But the facts in the case seem to be that I have been observed by some member of the A. E. F. in practically every one of the large cities of the U. S. A. One boy nearly started a fight in camp the other night by declaring that in spite of the evi- dence of my nose he knew I was of Hebraic origin. He had seen me, he solemnly insisted, "goin' with a Jew feller in Philadelphia. " Undoubtedly it is because they have so little to think about in these drab days that they are so pathetically curious. Every little thing you say or do is repeated, discussed all over camp. Sometimes curiosity gets hold of one of the bolder spirits to such an extent that he ventures the question; "How much do you get paid for smiling at the soldiers?'' And when they learn that you are a volunteer and are paying for the privilege of being there, their amazement is so blank as to be positively ludicrous. Goncourt, February 13. One of the nicest things about Goncourt is our mess. This we have at the House Across the Street, which is next to the House of the Madonna. We mess en famille with the family Peirut, the Gendarme, Mr. K. and I, and we eat the family fare which con- sists chiefly of soup, boiled meat and carrots, supplemented by various additions such as sugar, cocoa, jam and canned corn from the commissary. I can never quite decide which is quainter, the family or the setting. In America we have the phrase living-room, in France they have it. In this one high-ceilinged room the daily life of the family is complete. Here is the kitchen stove and the dinner table, here are the beds of Madame and Monsieur, Madame's in one corner hung with dim flowered chintz, Monsieur's in another brave with a beautiful old red India shawl. Here is the broad stone sink under the window, with the drain running out into the street, where the family makes its morning toilet. Here are the great dark armoires which hold clothing, china-ware and stores of all sorts. Here is 64 GONCOURT the littered desk where the family correspondence is carried on; and here is the larder, a huge slab of pork and a ham hanging from the beams over one's head, while on a stick in front of the fireplace a row of little fishes hang by their tails in dumb expectation of a Friday. And here too is the family shrine, a little wooden Madonna in red and blue, found as Madame tells us in the ancient city of La Mothe, which, destroyed in 1645, now exists as a wonderful ruin crowning a hill some two miles to the west. If the stove-wood is found lacking at meal-time, Monsieur rises from his chair and saws an armful beside the dinner-table. If Madame decides while we are eating our soup that a piece of ham will improve the menu she stands upon her chair and cuts a slice in the air over our heads. On wash days one picks one's way to the table past the pails which hold the family linen in soak, and later eats one's soupe a pain under a brave array of drying garments slung from wall to wall. The family, which consists of Monsieur, Madame and Mademoi- elle, the two sons being in service, are the most hospitable souls alive. Continually they urge, "Mangez, mangezV and then, "Vous ties timide!" Their feelings are dreadfully hurt if each one of us refuses to eat enough for two. They seem somehow to have acquired the idea that Americans need a vast deal of sweeten- ing, so they offer you sugar, commissary sugar, with everything, and they are gently but definitely disappointed when you decline to heap it on your mashed potato. Mile. Jeane, clear-skinned, bright-eyed, capable, energetic yet possessed of a warm charm withal, is forewoman of the little glove factory in town. "Are there many employees?" I asked. "But no. Eight only. Since the Americans came to town all the women have deserted the factory in order to wash the Ameri- cans' clothes." Monsieur, it appears, is a wood-cutter by profession. He comes home from a hard day's chopping looking like a genus of the woods himself with his worn brown velour suit, his wrinkled brown skin THE DOUGHBOYS 65 and his ragged brown beard which resembles exactly those bundles of fine twigs which the French burn in their fireplaces. When Monsieur was ten years old the Germans occupied the town and sixteen of them slept in this very room. They were perfect pigs, he says, and ate everything they could lay their hands on; "But," he adds, "they didn't like our bread!" Sunday mornings all the men in town, including the Man With One Leg, and all the dogs start off together, the men armed with guns and each carrying a musette bag or knapsack. Papa puts on his shooting coat with the fancy buttons each depicting a different bird or beast of the chase, takes down his old shot-gun from the wall, and joins them. At dusk they come back again, empty-handed, but seemingly well content. Their modus operandi, I gather, is to proceed to a comfortable spot in the woods, then all sit down, drink vin rouge and wait for the game. Indeed one doughboy declares, that passing by one of those open alleys which intersect the forests here, he once saw an old Frenchman standing with his gun in a drizzling rain, patiently waiting for a shot while by his side stood another "old frog " holding an umbrella over him. Goncourt, February 14. The woman who lives in the House of the Madonna is an un- conscionable old scalawag. Not that you would ever suspect it to look at her, for with her round rosy face, her smooth parted hair and her comfortably rotund figure she resembles nothing so much as somebody's genial and respected grandmother. Yet the facts in the case remain. She sells doped wine to the soldiers at ruinous prices and she sells at forbidden hours. Moreover we have reason to suspect that at odd times she carries on an utterly illicit com- merce. According to our hostess, when the time from the last pay day grows too long, certain soldiers are not above smuggling in their extra shoes and shirts to her, and she pays them back in drinks. This morning while I was at breakfast she came bouncing in and proceeded to fill the house with lamentations. Last night a tipsy 66 GONCOURT soldier had stolen the key to her front door! Then she delved into history for my benefit, recounting how, some weeks before, two sol- diers, having sent her out of the room on an errand, had pro- ceeded to rob her till, the sum amounting to almost three hundred francs! "Oh! lis sont des monstres, des cochonsl" she wailed. Whereat I, with some asperity, remarked that if the French people wouldn't sell drink to the Americans, the soldiers wouldn't become zig-zag and do such things. Immediately she became con- ciliatory. Of course, everyone knew that there were good people and bad people in every nation, but certainly! Then she changed the subject abruptly, demanding; why, why in the name of common sense did I do anything so contrary to all the dictates of reason as to sleep with my window open? Last night, as Mr. K. and I were coming home from the canteen, the door of the cafe opposite was suddenly opened and a man's fig- ure appeared, half pushed, half thrown outside. The door slammed shut, — it was long after closing hour for the cafe, — the figure fell like a log to the ground. We watched a minute to see the fellow pick himself up, but he lay motionless. It was a freezing night. Mr. K. went over to investigate. The man was in a drunken stupor. "You go along," he called to me, "I've got to get this fellow home." I left reluctantly. Subsequently Mr. K. told me the night's his- tory. After considerable coaxing, he had finally succeeded in ex- tracting the information that the boy belonged to F Company. So to F Company barracks, a good half-mile north of the canteen, they had proceeded, Mr. K. hah dragging, half carrying the fellow who was head and shoulders taller than he, and broad to boot. When they had nearly reached their journey's end, Mr. K. by this time fairly in a state of collapse, his burden suddenly baulked. The barracks evidently didn't look like home to him. Mr. K. began to have a sickening sense of something gone wrong. At last the wretch drowsily recalled the fact that he didn't belong to F Com- pany at all, but to I Company far on the other side of town. So THE DOUGHBOYS 67 around they turned and back through town they crawled until finally they arrived at I Company's abiding-place; and this time the derelict was satisfied. Indeed a walk home from the canteen at night with Mr. K. at any time is likely to prove an adventure. For should we meet a boy who has had more than is "good for him" and is in an irritable mood, we must stop and talk with him, in order, as Mr. K 's theory puts it, to divert his mind. " Get them thinking about something else," is his slogan. The other night we stood out in the sleety drizzle until my feet fairly froze solid into the freezing mud, carry- ing on polite conversations with two boys who had just been put out of the House of the Madonna and were in a state of mind to wreck the town. One of them Mr. K. got started on the subject of taking French lessons. He was ambitious to study French he explained and would Mr. K. kindly arrange for a teacher and a course of lessons? I listened with one ear; here was the first man I had found in France who expressed an earnest desire to learn French and he was tipsy! The other one, evidently ashamed, explained to me at length how he hadn't wanted to get drunk, the trouble was that he was just naturally "dishgushted with this country, just dishgushted." And that it seems to me is the whole thing in two words. The boys are "just dishgushted." Considering it all, who can blame them? Goncourt, February 15. The M. P.s who live in the second story of the Guard-House are my good friends. They help sweep out the hut often in the mornings and when they make taffy in their mess kits they bring me some. These M. P.s are in reality cavalrymen detached from their regiment for the time being in order to do police duty. As far as I can see, there seems to be no special hard feeling between them and the doughboys. One slim young M. P. in particular is a crony of mine. He keeps me informed as to the gossip of the town. He tells me how the French women who run cafes, our neighbor of the House of the 68 GONCOURT Madonna among them, seek to curry favor with the law in Gon- court, by bringing him out coffee and sandwiches as he walks his beat in the middle of the night; and how, the other night after closing hour, he put his head inside the door of one of these cafes to be greeted by a frantic shriek of "Feenish! FeenishI" from the hostess, only to find, when he insisted on entering, a crowd of dough- boys making merry in the back-room; how he took their names and then was inspired to look at their "dog tags" in confirmation and found that not one of the names agreed! He tells me about the cross old Frenchman whose beehives have been stealthily, inexpli- cably, disappearing one by one, in spite of the fact that the French- man had tied his unfortunate and much suffering dog underneath the hives to guard them; until now the old gentleman had taken to sitting up nights with a shot-gun in order to watch the remaining ones. "He's a kind o' snoopy old man and nobody likes him. I reckon the boys are taking his beehives just to spite him." He tells me about the old lady who wants to marry him to her daughter; but chiefly he tells me, — under the strictest oath of secrecy, — the latest development in the case of the old woman whom he suspects of being a spy. I advise him to hand the matter over to the In- telligence Officer, but no, he must have the honor of catching her red-handed himself. It's quite like reading a detective story in in- stallments. The other night while I was talking to one of the M. P.s in the canteen, we heard a shot up the street. The next moment another M. P. appeared at the door. After the exchange of a few whispered words, the two of them ran out of the hut, and as they went, I saw them both draw their revolvers. Fifteen minutes later the dough- boys coming into the canteen brought a ghastly tale. There had been a fight between the M. P.s and the soldiers. The M. P.s had shot and killed two. "Yes, so-help-me-God, it's the truth!" The narrator had himself seen the two slain doughboys lying in the street; one had been shot through the head, the other through the heart. So the story went around. We went to bed that night with a dull sense of horror hanging over us. THE DOUGHBOYS 69 The next morning I confronted my friend the M. P. with the story. Then I learned the true version. He had been on his beat not far from the church, when down a dark alley he had heard sounds of a tremendous fracas. In spite of the fact that he didn't have his stick with him he had plunged down the alley to come upon "a bunch of wops beating each other over the head with beer bottles.'' When they caught sight of the M. P. they had quickly abandoned their family disagreement in order to turn upon the intruder. He had shot his revolver into the air and this had been enough to frighten them into taking to their heels. The two fellows who had been seen lying on the ground were the casualties resulting from the bottle-fight: they had been stunned and gashed so badly as to bleed a good deal, but were later patched up with complete success at the hospital. Indeed life at Goncourt is seldom unrelieved by incident. Last night I was sitting by our open window reading — the Gendarme was out — after my return from the hut, when I heard an angry voice snarl something abusive directly beneath me; a moment later a fusillade began. I jumped for the candle, blew it out, then stood close against the wall. After a minute the shots ceased; immedi- ately excited people began to pour into the street. I heard the M. P.s pounding on the door of the House Across the Way, de- manding information; I leaned from the window and told them what I knew. All the French people in the neighborhood stood out in the street and chattered excitedly for hours afterward it seemed. This morning Madame told us what had happened. In the house next door lives a tall and handsome girl. A sergeant suitor of hers, crazy with jealousy and cognac, had shot wildly at a rival entering her door, emptying his automatic, fortunately without effect. Goncourt, February 16. Twice a week each one of us goes to pay a visit at the local hos- pital. This is a depressing place — two large dingy rooms in what was once, to judge from the inscription over the door, some sort of ecclesiastical school. We take the boys magazines and news- 7 o G0NC0URT papers, oranges and jam. This week I had a new idea. I would read aloud to them. In the Bourmont warehouse I came across a volume of W. W. Jacobs' short stories. Here was just the thing, I thought, such simple slap-stick humour must appeal to the most unsophisticated understanding. I hurried to the hospital with my prize. The orderlies, not ex- pecting a lady visitor, were in the midst of a Black Jack game. Red and flustered, one lad tried to hide the little heaps of money on the floor by standing on them; I pretended not to see. Yes, they thought it would be all right if I should read to the patients. They went ahead to the ward to announce me. All the cots were full, making sixteen invalids in all. I selected a story — an old favorite, I was sure it would prove irresistible — and started to read. The story tells of an eccentric skipper with a fad for doctoring. One by one, his crew, realizing his weakness, develop mysterious mala- dies. They are excused from duty, put to bed, petted and cossetted. Finally the mate becomes desperate. He guarantees that he will cure them all; the skipper is sceptical but allows him a free hand. The mate sets to work to compound some "medicine," a wonder- ful and fearful brew made of ink, vinegar, kerosene and bilge- water. After a few doses, presto! the crew is hale and hearty once again. I read with all the animation I could muster, and to me the story had never appeared funnier, but try my hardest, I couldn't seem to "get it over." Not a chuckle, not a grin lightened my solemn audience. They were utterly, blankly, unresponsive. I began to wonder if it were possible that not one of them could understand English. At last I ended. As I closed the book a whoop of de- light went up from the orderlies; "That's you all over, Johnny!" "Gee, that guy must have wrote that story about you, Slim." "Say, Miss, can't you let us have the recipe for that medicine? We need it in our business." The invalids grinned sulkily. In one awful moment I realized what I had done. "Of course," I stammered, "this wasn't meant to have any per- THE DOUGHBOY 71 sonal application!" But the mischief was already done. There was nothing to do but to retire with dignity. However, I couldn't bear to give up my scheme entirely. Today I went again; this time having carefully selected my story. To my astonishment the ward proved empty, all except for three boys who were crouching on the floor shooting craps; I drew back. "Perhaps they would rather not be disturbed." "They ought to be in bed anyway," growled the orderly, and chased the patients back to their cots. I read to them ; there was no way out of it. They listened politely to the end, but all the while I felt they were longing to resume their interrupted game. Tonight I expressed my surprise over the de- serted ward to Captain X. He roared at my innocence. "You didn't expect to find any fellows in hospital today did you? Why, this is Saturday, and there isn't any drill tomorrow!" Goncourt, February 18. Every day we must go to see how the new hut is progressing. This involves wading through a wilderness of mud. I had thought that Bourmont had taught me everything that one could learn about French mud this side of the trenches, but Goncourt has shown me that it has possibilities hitherto undreamed. The new hut is on the far edge of the town, on the east bank of the Meuse. Near it are grouped the barracks of the Milk Bat- talion, so called not because, as I first supposed, it is composed of heavy drinkers, but because it is comprised of Companies I, K, L, and M. These barracks, which were bequeathed to us by the French, are, the boys tell me, infested with vermin. In the mess- hall of Company M we hold our weekly movie-shows and our occasional concerts. The hut, which is very large, and shipped here in sections, goes up slowly. Army details are proverbial in their ability to consume time. Then we are constantly being held back by shortage of materials; lumber and nails and such things being desperately hard to obtain in France at present. Not long ago the divisional Con- 72 GONCOURT struction Man, who is a young fellow with poor eyes and consider- able initiative, was driven to the desperate resort of appropriating French Army lumber. For a while all went well, then the thefts grew too bold, and the Construction Man was summoned before the French colonel in command. As the colonel knew English, and so could not be put off by any " no compris" bluff, the Construc- tion Man had a pretty bad quarter hour of it, but in the end was let off with a warning. The window frames of the hut are to be filled in with vitex, a curious glass substitute, which looks like a thin celluloid glaze over very fine meshed wire. It is only slightly transparent, rather fragile and very costly but it does admit the light, in this respect being far better than the oiled cloth in use in most barracks. When the vitex is cut to fit the frames, many odd scraps are left over and these I have been distributing among the boys so they can substitute them for the old newspapers or sacking now in vogue for billet windows. If they only could hurry up that hut! " You wait and see," say the boys; " just as soon as that hut is finished we'll be moving. That's always the way with this regiment. Sure as you five, when that hut's done, we'll be off for the front." And it begins to look as if this might come true. "Do you really think so?" I asked Mr K. today. "There's no telling," he replied. "Perhaps. But anyway the boys will know we did our best." Meanwhile the state of the men is worse than ever. An order has been issued in Goncourt that no soldier may enter a civilian house without a special permit. The reason given is that certain of the townspeople have been illegally selling the men strong drink. The soldiers, however, declare bitterly that the real reason is that the officers wish to have a clear field with the village damsels. Goncourt, February 21. We have had our first taste of the trenches; these are not real trenches to be sure but simply practice trenches which lie on the THE DOUGHBOYS 73 hilly uplands west of Goncourt. For two days we have been in a tumult with a dress rehearsal of manceuvers at the front. The whole brigade in battle array has passed under our window. Colonels and soup-kitchens, mules and majors, supply trains, am- bulances, machine-guns, everything. Yesterday as Company F was starting on its hike to the trenches, word came that the mules who pulled their field-kitchen were indisposed. Company F had no mind to eat corn-willy and hard bread for dinner. They seized the soup wagon and pulled it by hand, all the way up the hills. Meeting their major on the way, they shouted in unison; "The mules went on sick report and got marked quarters. We went on sick report and they marked us duty." But they got their dinner hot. Tonight I heard the sad tale of Mr. B. the new secretary at Saint Thiebault. Company A had marched off to spend the day in the trenches. Mr. B. had an inspiration; he filled a large suit-case full of chocolate and cigarettes: hailed a passing ambulance and set out to carry first aid to Company A in its ordeal in the trenches. Unluckily neither Mr. B. nor the driver knew just where the field of operations lay. Two miles north of Goncourt Mr. B. got out and started to " cut across lots." It was raining; he waded through swamps, he scratched through thickets, he wallowed in ploughed fields, with that suit case which must have weighed a good eighty pounds growing heavier at every step. There being no sun to guide him, he got lost and wandered about in circles. Finally, after several hours, he arrived in a state of collapse at the field of manceuveurs. Then instead of A Company he encountered an- other company, a perfectly strange company; they demanded chocolate and he didn't have the heart to deny them. After the last cake of chocolate and the last package of cigarettes had dis- appeared an officer came up, an officer from still another company, and proceeded to tell Mr. B. in very plain language what he thought of him for leaving his men out. And when that officer had done with Mr. B. an officer from the company which had been fed came up in an awful temper and "bawled out" Mr. B. because forsooth 74 GONCOURT his men had made such a mess, throwing away the chocolate wrap- pers that when the others left, his company would have to stay behind to " police up" the trenches! Poor Mr. B ! My heart goes out to him. This evening as we were about to close the canteen, my friend, the mule-skinner from Texas appeared in the hut. He had a sort of a weak-in-the-knees expression on his face. "What's the matter?" "Met the Old Man," he answered ruefully,— the ' 'Old Man" is the general in command of the division — "Gee! but he sure did give me some bawlin' out!" "But why?" He explained that his sergeant had misunderstood orders and told him to go out in his usual rig. The general, encountering the mule-skinner without his proper war-paint, had expressed his mind to him on the matter. "Jumpin' Jupiter! but the langwidge that that old bird used! I sure will hand it to him! Why, my ears ain't done burnin' yet!" And he shook his head like a man half dazed. "What did he say?" The mule-skinner grew red as a beet, stared at me horrified. "I couldn't repeat it, ma'am! I couldn't repeat nary word of it!" That a general should so scandalize a mule-skinner, and a Texas mule-skinner at that, by his address, was so intriguing to my fancy that I laughed all the way home. We have a new colonel; he has declared that the regiment is not fit for the front, and so has laid out a two weeks' programme of gruelling hikes and intensive training, in order at the eleventh hour to try to jack us up to standard. The Gendarme leaves tomorrow to go en permission. Goncourt, February 25. If I were God I would lay a blight on every grape-vine in France; then I would sink every still, wine press, distillery and brewery to the bottom of the sea. THE DOUGHBOYS 75 We have had pay-day. It happened Friday. The total results didn't make themselves evident immediately; it was instead a cumulative effect, a crescendo, beginning Friday and reaching its climax yesterday. On these three days, out of the twenty-five hundred men stationed here, twenty-four hundred and ninety-three, I could take my oath, have come into the canteen and leaned over the counter, drunk; — that is to say, visibly and undeniably under the influence of liquor. When a lad, as some half dozen did, — those composing the regular attendance in the group about the fire, — came into the canteen entirely and unmistakably sober, one welcomed him as a drowning man does a spar. For a moment one had come in touch with something stable in a reeling world. Out of a company of two hundred and fifty last night ninety were capable of standing Retreat. I have learned to gauge the stages. When a man looks you squarely in the eye and declares vociferously, "Never took a drink in all my life! " he is very drunk indeed. And there is always some- one nearby to wink and comment; "He must have joined the gang that pours it down with a funnel. " Saturday night a very red-faced lad came up to the counter and insisted on conversing; from each pocket in his rain-coat pro- truded a long-necked bottle. I stood it for a few minutes, then: "Please/ I said, "won't you take those bottles out of here? I just hate to see them." "Bottles!" he expostulated. " What do you mean, bottles!" "I mean just those." I pointed. "Why I ain't got a bottle on me!" he burst out indignantly, fairly glaring at me. Seeing it was hopeless, I edged away toward the other end of the counter, leaving him standing there, a perfect picture of outraged and insulted virtue, with those bottles bristling all over him. The whole town is pervaded by a warm glow of geniality. Boys that used to nod shyly in answer to your " Good morning" now lean from their loft windows as you pass to call a greeting. Last night, my friend the M. P. tells me, he heard a racket in one of the sheep- 76 GONCOURT folds up on our street. Going to investigate he met a "bunch o* drunken wops" coming out of the door, every man of them carry- ing a struggling sheep under each arm. He shouted at them; they dropped the sheep and fled. The French find it all vastly amusing. "Beauoup zig zag" they cry. It means, I suppose, riches for them. And yet in all this orgy I have not yet encountered a single word of disrespect, nor heard one objectionable expression uttered. Last night I caught an angry splutter from the crowd in front of the counter. One boy, evidently a shade less tipsy, had admonished another boy apparently a shade more so, to be careful of his lan- guage out of respect for me. "Whu'd 'y° u think? D'you think I ain't got sense enough to know how to talk when there's an Ameri- can lady present? " For a moment it looked as if there might be a fight. Meanwhile the guard-house, the real guard-house, is so crowded that they have had to put duck-boards across the rafters for the prisoners to sleep on. From a nearby town where part of another regiment is stationed come even more startling stories. Certain officers there went so wild that they started to blow up the town with hand grenades. And one of them coming into the Y. held up the secretary at the point of his pistol until he sold him — instead of the ordinary allowance of one or two packages — several cartons of his favorite brand of cigarettes. The new colonel is said to be horrified. But what could he ex- pect? Take an odd lot of twenty-five hundred boys, remove them from every decent restraining influence, hike them all day through the interminable mud and rain until they drop by the roadside, bring them back at night to dark, cold, damp, filthy, vermin-ridden lofts and stables, add the nerve strain of the imminent prospect of their first time at the front, close every door to them except the door of the cafe, give them money; — what could anyone expect? THE DOUGHBOYS 77 Goncourt, February 27. My friend Pat is in the hospital; not the local hospital, but Base 18 situated at Bazoilles, some six miles to the north of Gon- court. This afternoon, having our time free between one and four, Mr. K and I decided to go to call on him. "Are we going to walk?" I asked. "Oh we'll get a lift; one always does.' , But the lift didn't heave in sight until we were half way there; then it was an ambulance that slowed down in answer to our signals. "Give us a ride?" "Sure, if you aren't afraid of the mumps." I was, dreadfully afraid. But Mr. K. wasn't, he had already had them, on both sides. I hesitated, then decided to take a chance. We rode into Bazoilles in an ambulance full of mumps. As for Pat, we hadn't an idea in what sort of shape we might find him. Once, Mr. K. told me, he had come upon Pat in one of his visits to the Saint Thiebault infirmary. Pat was lying on a cot with his eyes closed and a sanctified look of patient suffering upon his face. "Why what's wrong with you, Pat?" "Ssh!" Pat squinted about to see that neither doctor nor orderly was within ear-shot, then an Irish grin spread over his impudent features. "Nothin' at all," he whispered joyously, "just no thin* at all!" But this time we found Pat's ailment real enough. He was in the "bone ward" with a badly broken wrist. "How did it happen?" we inquired. "Sure an' it happened this way," and he told us both the offi- cial and the confidential versions. Confidentially, Pat's wrist had been broken by a blow from an M. P.'s billy in an after-pay- day argument at Saint Thiebault. Officially it had been broken two days later in the barracks by an accidental knock from a gun-barrel. Pat had hiked and drilled with a broken wrist for two solid days in order to be able to claim that he had been disabled in 78 GONCOURT the line of duty\ After the second day, convinced that the en- counter with the M. P. was sufficiently a matter of past history to be discredited, Pat had reported at Sick Call with his trumped- up tale and had as usual gotten by. Now as he lay on his cot he was occupying himself by conjuring up visions of the party to which he and his buddy were going to treat that M. P. just as soon as he (Pat) should get his hospital discharge. As we talked I noticed a lad who was walking about the ward with his right hand done up in bloody bandages. He looked self-conscious and embarrassed as if he half hoped, half feared to be recognized. I caught Pat's eye, his voice dropped to a whisper. " That's Philip R. Don't you remember him?" Of course! I smiled at Philip, but he turned away and wouldn't come to speak to me. Mr. K. went over to him; they talked for a long while in undertones. Later I heard the whole pitiful story. He had been drinking, the terror that was haunting him had suddenly gripped. He had taken his rifle and shot himself through his right hand, mutilating it, in order that he might not be sent to the front. Placed under arrest on suspicion, his nerve had utterly given way. He had made a full confession. It was likely to go hard with him. While Mr. K. was listening to Philip, Pat was telling me about the regiment of southern negro engineers who had come to Baz- oilles to help build the new hospital. Every time there was an air-raid alarm, Pat declared, they knelt down and prayed by companies. I emptied out my musette bag onto Pat's cot. Pat looked at the oranges, dates, chocolates and cigarettes that we had brought, then took a squint along the hungry-looking ward. " Well, I guess I'll get a taste," he said. He was "in soft" he told us. The nurses let him help serve the meals. He had free run of the kitchen and all the milk that he wanted to drink. Yet he was already chafing at the restraint and in his wicked head he was scheming schemes. Some day in THE DOUGHBOYS 79 the not-too-distant future he was going to give the hospital guards the slip, make a night of it, and paint "Bazooie" red. Tonight word reached us that a Y. M. C. A. woman worker has been killed in Paris in an air-raid. She was sick and they had sent her to the Hopital Claude-Bernard. This time the bombs found it. Goncourt, March 2. The new hut is opened. Finished or unfinished, we made up our minds that we would open that hut Saturday night, and open it we did. The last two days have been fairly frantic. Yesterday we washed up; today we dried out and decorated. The cleaning was the worst of it. The hut, as I have hinted, is a sort of island in a sea of mud. Consequently as the building went up, the floor, walls, counter, ceiling, everything was splotched, streaked and plastered with dirt. Thursday night as I looked around the hut my heart sank. The place was a sight. "You can't do anything about it," they told me. "But something has got to be done!" Friday morning arrived a detail of eight prisoners from the guard-house. They had come to scrub. The guard in charge took his stand, leaning against one of the pillars, his loaded rifle in his hands; to see that no one escaped was his only responsibility, the rest was up to me. My detail proved a sullen, stubborn lot, slouching, cursing under their breath, all their self-respect turned to a smouldering rebellion; after the first few minutes I saw just how much work left to themselves they would be likely to ac- complish. So I told them in a matter-of-fact way just how things stood: that we had promised to open the hut the next day, that it was, as they could see, in a frightful mess, that I realized they were up against a stiff job, but I did so hope that we could put it through. Then I got a pail and a scrubbing-brush and went out and scrubbed side by side with them. It is of course strictly against the rules to talk to prisoners, but all the while I worked I "jollied" my "jail-birds" for all my wits were worth. I ad- 8o GONCOURT mired ecstatically the spots which they had scrubbed, I moaned in despair over the unscrubbed places. Inside of an hour the prisoners were all grinning cheerfully as they worked like beavers. When the guard was looking the other way I sneaked them cigar- ettes. By night the hut was very damp and somewhat streaky, but it would pass, at least by candle-light. I didn't care though my arms were so lame I could hardly lift them, and my hands in ruins. "I congratulate you," said the new Secretary, "I never thought it could be done." "If only nobody looks at the ceiling! " For the ceiling was beyond our reach, and back and forth over every one of its boards had tramped the hob-nailed boots of the A. E. F. and every step had left its muddy print. As I looked I thought; if we only had the signatures to put beside each foot- print, what a fascinating autograph collection it would make! Today we spent in a mad tear, making the hut beautiful and moving our effects over from the " Guard-House." The moving was accomplished by the aid of the Wall- Eyed Boy and his donkey. These are two of Goncourt's leading citizens, the donkey, an ancient moth-eaten beast, being particularly intimately known to a certain group of doughboys who would joyfully murder him. His stable is directly beneath the loft in which they are billeted and every morning, prompt as an alarm clock, at 4 A. M. that donkey brays, and brays until the soundest sleeper is awak- ened. The Wall-Eyed Boy's name is Martin, and as a donkey in France is slangily called un Martin, as we call a mule "Maud," the two go under the title of Les Deux Martins. When les Deux Martins and I went trudging along the muddy streets of Goncourt, side by side, with the little tippy cart loaded with canteen truck bumping along behind, the M. P.s thought it a rare joke. "I wish Sister Susy could see you now," called one. The last few hours were spent frantically decorating. Our color scheme is red and blue. This came about through accident rather than intention. We had a bolt of turkey-red cotton bunting for THE DOUGHBOYS 81 curtains, only to discover that this did not darken the lighted windows sufficiently to comply with the now strictly enforced aeroplane regulations. So I asked a secretary starting for Paris to bring me a bolt of black cambric in order to make a set of inner supplementary curtains. The secretary returning, brought bright blue; black, on account of the demand for mourning, had proved too expensive. At first I was non-plussed, but then discovered that the bright red and blue made rather a jolly combination. So each one of our many windows is now giddy with red and blue draperies and the seat that runs all around our writing room is brave with blue and red cushions (stuffed, if the truth must be told, with shavings!) Between each two windows is tacked one of my stun- ning big French war posters, the long counter is covered with red- checked oil-cloth, a bouquet of flags flies from the proscenium arch over the stage which, for the occasion, is banked beautifully with evergreens. Altogether we present rather the appearance of a perpetual Fourth of July celebration, but then who cares? If one can't be aesthetic one can atleast be gay, and it's anything to take one's mind off the mud! The Gendarme came back from her leave tonight just in time for the Grand Opening. This took place at seven o'clock. The hall was packed to the last inch. As one boy said; " There's plenty of room for me, but there ain't none for the buttons on my coat." There was a reason for this. The new colonel was to make a speech and he had advised all the officers and non-coms, in the whole regiment to be present. I caught a glimpse of Company A wedged in among the suffocating mass. Everything, I understand, went off very nicely; there was much music by the band and somebody sang Danny Deever very thrillingly, but I was too busy in the kitchen to pay much attention. The new Secretary had wanted me to sit on the platform, but after a three days' debate, he had finally agreed to let me off, and luckily, for the minute the last note of the S. S. B. had sounded we were ready to start handing out the hot chocolate and cookies over the counter to the mob. When every- one else had been fed the colonel himself appeared back of the 82 GONCOURT counter, to graciously accept a cup of chocolate, and make himself generally charming. When the last guest had gone and we were getting ready to shut up the hut for the night, the Chief who had come over from Bourmont for the occasion drew me aside, looking solemn. "I have a question to put to you." "What is it?" "The division leaves for the front within a short while. Do you wish to go with them?" "Of course! "said I. Goncourt, March 8. This week has gone by in a whirl. Because it was our first and presumably our last week in the big hut we wanted to make it just as nice as was humanly possible. And this hasn't been an easy task because with the regiment putting on the last touches before they go to the front, there hasn't been a bit of spare man-power available to help us; and the mere problem of keeping that huge place any- thing like clean has almost swamped us. After mess at night, to be sure, we have no lack of assistance. The boys swarm into the little kitchen in droves, eager to help stir the chocolate, or cut the bread for the sandwiches. If only ten out of every dozen would be content to stay the other side of the counter, it would simplify matters, but much as they may be underfoot one hasn't the heart to turn them out. Those who can't get into the kitchen hang about the doors, looking in, teasing for a "hand-out" of bread and jam. "I'm just so hungry," sighed a lad plaintively today, looking at me out of the corner of his eyes, "I could eat the jamb off the door!" We have a Frenchwoman to help us in the kitchen. She is a treasure, shy and bright-eyed as a brown bird, and so tiny that we have to set a packing-box by the stove for her to stand on when she stirs the chocolate. She is deaf and speaks patois, so between her strange French and mine still stranger we have droll times making each other understand. Yet, none the less, she and the boys manage to keep up a running fire of badinage and when they THE DOUGHBOYS 83 become too rowdy, the tiny thing turns ridiculously bellicose and threatens to whip them all with her chocolate paddle. At night we all go home together and one tall lad must always come along in order to help Madame over the road of a thousand mud holes that leads from the hut to the highway, lest she be drowned in transit. She carries a funny little gasolene lamp that gives about as much light as an ambitious fire-fly and all the way to the main road one can hear her moaning; "Mon Dieu } quel chemin! Mon Dieu, quel cheminl" This has been our week's programme: Sunday. Hot chocolate and cookies Religious Service with special music Song Service. More chocolate Monday. French Classes Hot chocolate and jam sandwiches Tuesday. Boxing and Wrestling Matches Hot chocolate and sardine sandwiches Wednesday. Band Concert Hot chocolate and jam sandwiches Thursday. Movies Hot chocolate and cookies Friday. Sing Fest with Solos Hot chocolate and jam sandwiches Saturday. Stunt Programme Canned fruit and cookies The hut has been filled every night, hundreds and hundreds of soldiers, the auditorium packed and the writing-room holding at least a hundred more, while the chocolate line, coiling and curling about like a monster snake, has for hours seemed absolutely end- less. We have worked out a system for the chocolate serving — the Gendarme is cashier, taking the money and making change, fifty centimes or nine cents for a cup of chocolate and a sandwich, or six spice cookies, or four fig ones. One boy ladles out the choco- late. I push the cups over the counter, another boy hands out 84 GONCOURT the cookies, a third gathers up the dirty cups and carries them to the kitchen, where three or four others are busy washing and wiping them, while Heaven only knows how many more are around the stove, helping Madame stir the next kettleful, opening milk cans, or dipping water into a third container. Thus we keep the line merrily wagging along. Last night, quite unknown to the men, Pershing himself came to town, whirled in after dark in his big limousine and whirled away again as suddenly and secretly as he had arrived. He came to give the officers final instructions as to their conduct at the front. The first faint wistful scents of Spring are in the air. This morn- ing Madame brought to our room a tiny bouquet of snow-drops. And one hears from Saint Thiebault a rumour of early violets. Goncourt, March io. This morning shortly after I reached the hut, one of the men from the Bourmont office came in with a note for me, it read: My dear Miss I am glad to be able to tell you more or less con- fidentially that you will probably go to the front very shortly. You had better have everything ready so you could leave on short notice any time after tomorrow noon. Very sincerely yours, Enclosed in the envelope was a little slip headed Suggestions for Men going to the Front. It began "Go light, take no trunk," and ended " We provide helmets, gas masks, etc." The note was dated yesterday. I left the canteen and hurried back here to my billet to pack, while the Gendarme, who does not wish to go with the division but prefers to stay back and be reassigned, remained at the hut. What with sorting and mending things, the packing took all afternoon. What to leave behind in storage and what to take is no end of a question. Unfortunately the Suggestions were compiled with a view strictly to masculine necessities. THE DOUGHBOYS 85 It has been a grey dismal afternoon. A melancholy donkey in somebody's back-yard has kept up an incessant braying. " He does not please himself at Goncourt," explained Madame. "He is a Saint Thiebault donkey. 3 ' Meanwhile half the regiment, it seems, has strayed by under my open window. I never knew before how consistently and persistently profane the A. E. F. could be when left to its own devices. The amazing part of it is; — since this seems to be their natural style of expression, how do they manage to slough it all and talk with such perfect prunes and prisms propriety in the canteens? At supper time we were surprised by a Concert Party which had arrived today unexpectedly in this area. We were particularly glad to have them as the nervous tension among the boys is marked enough to make us welcome anything to divert their attention. We could have the regular Sunday evening service first, we decided, and then the concert to finish off with. The Concert Party came to supper at our mess. There was an ornamental Russian violinist, male, an American accompanist, also male, and a little French actress-singer. The minute we laid eyes on her we knew that the concert would be a success. She was all frills and frippery; lace, pink-rose buds and pale blue silk, with yellow curls and great blue eyes peering from beneath a quaint little rose-wreathed poke bon- net; an amazing vision of femininity to appear suddenly in the mud and dingy squalor of Goncourt! The family Peirut was in a great state of mind over such dis- tinguished visitors. They brought out food enough to feed the company a week, and kept hovering about the table, urging the dishes on our guests and emitting little wails of dismay when any one of the artists refused to eat enough for all three. I stayed at our billet to finish up my packing, and went over to the hut late in the evening. The concert was half finished. As we anticipated, the little singer had made a hit. She gave some French songs, accompanying them with clever pantomine. Then she sang Huckleberry Finn and Oh Johnny! As the phrase has it, she "got them going." She proved a past-mistress in the 86 GONCOURT art of using her eyes. They winked at her and she winked back. Every last man in the first six rows was flirting with her, and every one was convinced that he was making a hit all his own. Several, it was confided to me afterwards, developed matrimonial aspirations on the spot. Then a tragic thing occurred. For the closing number they must give the Star Spangled Banner. Every- body rose, and everybody in duty bound removed their hats. The little singer took one wild survey of the audience, gasped, choked, then retreated precipitately in order to conceal her giggles. A week ago an order was published that the regiment should have their hair shaved off before going to the front; — every head in the whole auditorium, thus suddenly laid bare, was bald as an egg! From latest advices it appears that the troops will start entrain- ing the middle of the week. We are going on ahead in order to be there to serve them hot chocolate when they detrain after the journey. Every one has a different idea where that will be, but the best guess seems to be the Luneville sector. What sort of conditions we will find at the front I haven't the least idea. I missed the special conference held at Bourmont the other day, in which instructions and information to the personnel bound for the front were given. The driver who was to call for us, failed to do so; I set out to walk, only to find on arriving at Bourmont that the conference had been cut short, and was already over. Nobody has told me a word except to tease me by telling me that I will have to have my hair cut off in order to wear a gas-mask. Mr. K. amuses himself by predicting cellars and cooties. The Peiruts shake their heads and talk about my courage, but I can see that they mean folly. As for the Gendarme's friends, Lieut- enant Z. warns: "Take my advice, stay out of it. It's a man's game out there.' , While Captain X. splutters; "Sending you to the front without any gas-drill, it's nothing short of cold-blooded murder." Thus do our friends encourage us. CHAPTER III RATTENTOUT THE FRONT Bar-le-Duc, March 12. It's not to be the Luneville sector after all, it's to be the sector just south of Verdun! We arrived here at Bar-le-Duc last night after a six-hour trip by motor car. Mr. K. came by motor-cycle; most of the other men travelled by truck, sitting perched on top of a load of luggage, canvas cots, and chocolate boilers. The truck broke down some- where en route and never reached Bar-le-Duc until this morning, when it rolled in carrying a rather weary-looking lot of passengers. Tomorrow we go on to our station behind the lines. Today we have spent shopping for supplies. We have bought writing paper; materials to make hot chocolate, paying two francs and a half apiece or almost fifty cents for a small-sized can of condensed milk; and dozens of gross of little jars of confiture. Ever since I was a child Bar-le-Duc has meant just the one thing to me, — those little glasses of delectable currant preserve which bear its label. We went around to the wholesale houses which handle the famous Confitures Fins de Bar-le-Duc. The sight of all those gleaming rows of glass jars filled with deep crimson or amber- colored currants was one that I shan't easily forget. Bar-le-Duc is a city which shows the wounds of war. Time and again, unfortified, defenceless as she is, she has known the terror that flieth by night. Last summer several blocks in the very heart of the city were completely demolished by bombs and the wilderness of ruins lies there untouched. All over the city great black signs are painted on the houses; Cave, Cave voutee, — vaulted 88 RATTENTOUT cellar, — Place Pour 40 Personnes. At the end of the afternoon we climbed, Mr. K and I, to the top of the ancient clock-tower which stands on the edge of the fortress-citadel of the Dukes of Bar, overlooking the city. Just above the clock we came upon a tiny platform transformed for the time being into light-house- keeping apartments for two poilus who night and day keep watch there for enemy aircraft. As we stood on the little balcony out- side and looked down on the house-tops of the city spread be- neath us, with the little children playing in the streets, a telephone bell in the tower tingled. A moment later one of the poilus an- nounced; "A squadrille of Gothas has just crossed the lines, headed for Paris." Alas, poor Paris! Yet the news brought a feeling of relief with it. The little children of Bar-le-Duc are safe for the night, it seems. The avions are out after bigger game. Rattentout, March 14. Out from Bar-le-Duc one swings into a separate world, the World-Behind-the-Lines. Here one is at the back door of the war, as it were. Passing through the half-abandoned villages one sees war in its deshabille; you get no sense of the thrill of it, nor even of its horrors; only the weary disgust, the stultifying stupidity, the unutterable ennui. Here everything that moves or lives, it seems, is blue; faded blue, dingy blue, purplish or greenish blue perhaps, but blue nevertheless. Everywhere the color insists. It streaks along the roads in long, broken lines, the meagre trodden villages are blotched and patched with it. Indeed the whole horizon, at this season of the year, might be expressed in just two tones; the almost uniform grey-yellow tint that washes over the fields, the rolling hills, the dusty roads, the squalid villages, and the ever- insistent poilu-blue. You pass by tilled fields labeled Culture Militaire; great grey- green aerodromes with flocks of little planes resting in rows beside them, in their gay paint resembling nothing in the world so much THE FRONT 89 as dicky birds fresh from the toy shop; and always dotted here and there over the open fields, the little lonely graves, sometimes hedged in by fences made of sticks and always marked by a grey wooden cross on which hangs, in painted tin, the tricolor. Farther on you come to the world where men live underground, burrowing in the earth like hunted animals. Scattered along the road-side, or in rows under the shelter of a hill-slope, everywhere you look, are dugouts, some with the entrances covered with pine-boughs, others thatched with sticks, still others hidden beneath earth- colored camouflages. We arrived here last night about dusk. The poilus as we passed stared at us as if we were so many lunatics. Rattentout is on the right bank of the Meuse, about six miles from the trenches. This means for one thing that you must carry a gas-mask with you wherever you go. One even sees the little children, what few of them are left, trudging about with small-sized masks slung over their shoulders. The Y. here is short of masks and as yet M. — the only canteen worker besides myself to come with the advance guard — and I have none. This morning when the Chief went out he hung his mask on a peg in the hall. "If anything happens," he said to M. and me, "you two can settle it between you, which shall have it." Our home here is in a lordly mansion, evidently the Big House of the village. French officers were living here before we came. The regiment to which they belonged moving out just as we arrived, they graciously made over the house to us. The officers had started a vegetable garden in the back-yard and this they relinquished with deep regret, one young lieutenant fairly having tears in his eyes as he took a last survey of his rows of tiny lettuce and young cabbages. Today is to be given over to house-cleaning, and getting settled. Tomorrow the troops are due to begin detraining at the two points Landrecourt and Dugny and we are to be there to serve them hot chocolate. Last night we took our supper at the dingy little house next go RATTENTOUT door, a surprisingly delicious meal, bread and butter, omelette, salad and cocoa. The house next door is one of the half-dozen or so in town still inhabited by civilians. The family consists of grandmother, mother and little girl of five; the husband is in the trenches. The child Pauline is half sick with a feverish cold. They could get no medicine, the mother fretted; we promised some from Bar-le-Duc. The house itself is painfully unkempt and dirty, yet Pauline is always fresh in a spotless white pinafore, her glossy hair immaculately brushed. This morning we went to the house next door again for bread and coffee. "Did you sleep last night?" asked Madame. " But yes, — and you? " She shook her head. "I was afraid of the Boche aeroplanes. I could hear them overhead.' ' "But I should think you would be used to them by now." "Ah! But that makes no difference!" What consideration keeps her here, clinging to the very door- step of the war, as it were, hounded as she is, by terrors? Just the one reason, I suppose, — that she has nowhere else to go. Rattentout, March 15. Lafayette, nous voild! The first battalions of the division have arrived. The car called for us early this morning to take us to Dugny- Est where half the men are to detrain. We followed along the east bank of the Meuse running parallel to the Canal de UEst. The canal was a dismal sight, filled with an endless fine of empty aban- doned barges, many of them settling slowly down as if water-logged, a few, already sunk, leaving nothing but a bit of prow protruding above the water's surface. We ran along the bank for about three miles, then swung across the Meuse to Dugny. Dugny-Est is a half mile north of Dugny proper, — the terminus of a strip of rail- way taken over and run by American engineers. Viewed from the detraining tracks the landscape was bleak enough; the morasses of the Meuse, strung with barbed-wire beyond, an austere deserted- THE FRONT 91 looking church in the foreground, and, dreariest of all, right under the boys' feet as they detrained, almost, a large military grave-yard. Arriving at the little stone station-house made over to us for the occasion, we found the chocolate already made. Four of the Y. men had spent the night there and by dint of stoking the fires all night long, as they declared, they had gotten the five huge con- tainers hot. The equipment assembled in haste at Bar-le-Duc was evidently proving none too satisfactory. I had just time to suspend a small American flag from the front of the station-house before the first train puffed up the track. Nothing I think has ever looked quite so good to me as that old American locomotive. It was the first one I had seen in France. I wanted to throw my arms around it and hug it. As one of the boys said afterwards: "Why, you'd be happy just to lie down on the track and let the darned thing run over you." I stood under the flag and waved frantically, first to the Ameri- can train crew and then, oh joy! to my Company A! There they all were, crowded in the open doors of their box cars, " Side-door Pullmans" as they call them, Magulligan the prize fighter, comi- cally conspicuous with his head done up in a sort of night-cap made from a large white handkerchief. The train pulled by, slowed down, came to a standstill up the track. We hustled the chocolate cans out by the road-side. Company A, the first off the train, came marching down the road; each man held out his mess-cup and got a dipperf ul of cocoa. "Where are we?" they demanded. "Four miles south of Verdun. How do you like the scenery?" "All right except the grave-yard. That's too handy." " Say " spoke up one of the boys, "I heard the mud out here in the trenches was pretty deep." "Is that so?" "Yes they said a feller went in over his ankles there the other day." "I wouldn't call that very deep!" I bit. "Mm, but he went in head-first!" 92 RATTENTOUT I asked one of the corporals how things were going. "We were feelin' kind o' lost," he confessed. "Then we looked out and saw the old flag and you. After that it seemed just like home somehow.' ' They marched off down the road looking very business-like and military. Next came the other companies belonging to the first battalion, and the regimental machine-gun company. These were not permitted to stop by the station-house on account of the danger of being observed by enemy aircraft, but were halted at a distance down the road. We picked up the chocolate cans and chased after them. When every man in the First Battalion had had a drink, we hurried back to the stone-house to get ready for the next train- load. As I stirred the chocolate on one of the little stoves set up outside, several of the train crew came to talk to me. I was the first "real honest- to-God American girl" they had seen in months they told me; and they were just as excited over me as I had been over their engine. If the history of America in the Great War should ever be written down in detail, surely one chapter should be given over to a Little Iliad of the "Six Bit Railway" that runs from Sommeil to Dugny- Est, five kilometers south of Verdun; how, as I had it from the lips of one of those engineers, the English took it over from the French and tried to run it and failed, how the Canadians took it after them and failed too, how then the Engineers fell heir to it. How they lived with the French, eating French rations which were gall and wormwood to them. How they struggled with an alien tongue and finally reduced it to a wierd unholy gibberish which was yet somehow intelligible both to the French and to themselves. How they came through shell-fire and gas and bombing raids, seemingly bearing charmed lives. And how they worked forty-eight hours at a stretch whenever the big drives and shifts were on. Tonight one of the secretaries told us that, as he was standing by the road-side watching while we ladled out the chocolate, one of the boys said to him: THE FRONT 93 "I'm thinking of a toast." "And what might that be?" "God bless American women," the boy answered him. Rattentout, March 16. When we reached the station-house this morning we found every- one agog over the night's events. The detraining had gone on all night; at first without incident. All precautions had been taken, no one was allowed to so much as light a match. About midnight one of the marine soup-kitchens had been unloaded and rolled down the road puffing sparks and scattering coals. Some enterprising mess sergeant had evidently planned that his men should have a hot meal. The French spectators in consternation had followed the soup-kitchen down the road, extinguishing the trailing embers, but the mischief was already done. There were German planes scouting overhead, they noted, evidently, the sparks, and signaled the range to the German gunners. Fifteen minutes later a six inch shell exploded a few hundred yards from the little stone-house, then another and another. One shell had fallen in the very center of the grass-plot where Company D had lined up to eat their luncheon of cold corn-willy sandwiches and hot chocolate. The gas-alarm had been sounded. A mule team had become frantic and bolted, encountering the marine band's big base drum, had made toothpicks of it. Meanwhile confusion, it seemed, had reigned in the little stone-house. One secretary, seizing an article of under- wear and putting it on his head in mistake for a helmet, had dashed madly up and down the road as the shells fell, and ended by burst- ing, in his deshabille, into the private dugout of a French colonel. No Americans were hurt, but one poilu had been injured and another killed. "They have our range now," said everybody. "And look at those Boche ballloons, will you?" We looked to the northeast; three German observation balloons were hanging just above the hills. 94 RATTENTOUT We stirred the chocolate and served it to whatever boys happened to be about, boys on detail, drivers of mule-teams. One can, having been kept warm all night, had turned. Some bright soul suggested that it was the concussion of the shelling that had soured the milk, just as thunderstorms sometimes do. Two poilus leaned in at the window. "What are you doing?" they asked curiously. We explained; they shook their heads. "You spoil your soldiers." Then, "Was anyone killed last night?" "Yes, one Frenchman." "Oh that's nothing!" (Ca ne fait rien.) They strolled away. The friendly interpreter came in and told us that they were about to hold the poilu's funeral. A troop-train pulled in. It was loaded with soldiers from my own regiment, the Second Battalion. The chocolate was ready, smelt delicious. • "You can't serve it," they told us. "On account of last night's shelling, the troops won't be allowed to stop until they're well beyond the town." "Isn't there some way we can manage?" we teased. "No, they've got our range." "Well at least we can say hello to them!" We went down to the tracks where the men were spilling out of the box cars. They were gathering up their equipment and forming in companies in double time. One red-in-the-face ser- geant was furiously demanding who in blazes had stolen his revolver on him; it was evident that he found the presence of ladies sadly hampering to his flow of language. Three companies marched off. The last to go was H Company, the company that had been billeted on the same street with us at Goncourt. We waved and they smiled back at us. They marched down the road, disappeared over the brow of the hill. We stood chatting with two boys who were on a billeting de- tail. There was a dull heavy detonation beyond the hills. A moment THE FRONT 95 later a strange whistling screech shrilled over our heads. I stared into the air, trying to see — I knew of course it was a shell, but I had never thought one would travel so slowly or be quite so noisy about it. The whistling shriek passed over us, changed to a dropping whine. Down the street there was a thunderous explosion followed instantly by a shattering crash. Timbers, tiles, stones, a mass of debris splashed for a moment up against the sky. The shell had fallen at the cross-roads. I stared at M. I was cold all over. "It must have got them," I heard myself whispering. "My God! it must have got them!" We stared down the road. Everywhere figures in poilu blue and some in khaki, were running like rabbits towards the dugouts. It seemed to me the uncertainty was more than I could bear. "I'm going to go and see." "I'll go with you," said M. We stopped at the station-house and put on our helmets; then we started down the road. Just beyond the 'station-house we passed a little cortege of poilus carrying the body of their comrade on a stretcher-bier. They were on their way to the church. When the first shell came over I had seen the funeral procession waver, hesitate, seem uncertain for a few moments whether to proceed or to seek shelter, now, their indecision conquered; they were continuing their march with what seemed an added dignity. A limousine drew up behind us, stopped. In the back seat sat an American major. "Give you a lift?" We climbed in. Half way down the hill another shell shrieked over our heads, burst in front of us. We reached the cross-roads. "Let us out, please." The major stared, them stopped the car. We scrambled out. The car whirled off. Two houses lay, crushed heaps of stone. In the road were three dead horses and an automobile with a crumpled radiator. That was all. Another shell struck, sending us cowering against the nearest house-wall. As far as we could see the place was utterly deserted, There was nothing to do but 96 RATTENTOUT go back. Half-way up the hill we met a poilu, he was carrying an O. D. blouse. He asked us where the wounded American was; he had been carried into some house nearby; this was his coat. We could of course tell him nothing. The wind which had been strong all morning, was filling the air withj)linding clouds of yellow dust. The shells were coming over at regular intervals, so many minutes between them; they were all falling, it seemed, in the vicinity of the cross-roads. A little further up the hill and we began to meet mule teams from the supply train driving down. The mule-skinners on their high seats looked calm enough, but a num- ber of the mules were becoming quite unmanageable. I recognized the slim lad of seventeen with whom I had driven into Bourmont from Goncourt once after a load of canteen supplies. As each team passed, we waved our hands and wished them luck; but all the time I kept repeating to myself : " They're going right down into it. God help them! Why does ithave to be?" A French officer encountered us, asked us politely if we wouldn't like to step down into a dugout. I was amused at his manner which was as casual as if he were offering us an umbrella in a^hower. There were some excellent dug-outs up on the hill-side he assured us. "But I don't want to go into a dugout!" "Mademoiselle a beaucoup oV esprit" he observed, " mais ce n'est pas prudent." Obedi- ently we climbed the hill, to come upon a little group of Americans gathered about the entrance to a dugout, watching the shells as they came over. Taking a peep into the dugout I found it had already been patronized by several poilus. We sat on the ground and watched the shelling. On the other side of the town we could see Company H flung out in skirmish line, marching over the open fields. Presently a boy in olive drab came panting and laughing up the hill. The group welcomed him with a shout. He was one of the billeting detail. They had been staying in a house at the cross- roads. When the others had gone out this morning he had been left to clean up and get dinner. He had washed all the dishes, he THE FRONT 97 told us, and had just gone out and bought a basketful of eggs to make an omelette for dinner, when crash! the first shell had fallen demolishing the house next to theirs. He had stepped out to look at the ruins and returned, when bang! went the house on the other side of him! He began to think it might be time for him to move, when, oh boy! zowie! a shell had wrecked the upper story of the billet over him. Then he had left. But he was feeling very badly about those eggs. Corporal G. also of the billeting detail looked at him with widened eyes. "And I was half a mind to stay up- stairs in bed and not get up this morning!" he remarked. The boys found solace for the loss of the omelette in the thought that all the effects of the very unpopular captain billeted next door must surely have been annihilated. After an hour or so the shelling stopped. One by one blue forms emerged from the dugouts. The Chief had ordered the flivver to report at eleven. It was noon and it hadn't appeared. "We must walk to Rattentout," said the Chief. "No use our staying here." It was hot and dusty and my helmet weighed like a mountain on my head, but at last we made it. Some two miles or so from Dugny we passed two marines sitting in discouraged postures by the roadside. "What's the matter?" "He's had a fit," growled one of the warriors, jerking his thumb in the direction of his comrade's back. "He has 'em. They never ought ter let him come." There was nothing we could offer them but sympathy. Rattentout, March 17. Here I am sitting on a bench in the little garden back of our billet, soaked in spring sunshine. Over my head the lilacs are leafing out against a sky of Italian blue, at my feet are golden crocuses and the first pale primroses. But the sky, as one gazes at it, has an odd trick of breaking out in little puffy dots of white like nothing so much as kernels of corn in a corn-popper. These 9 8 RATTENTOUT are of course the bursting shells fired by French anti-aircraft bat- teries at the enemy aviators overhead; sometimes you can see the plane itself, skimming like a gnat among the smoke puffs. "They don't seem to get 'em often," as a boy remarked to me. " But golly they do make 'em move!" Ever since the Americans began to arrive the German planes have been constantly overhead. They are taking photographs; they say. Where, oh where are our American aviators? In my ears as I sit here is a curious sound, a sound like the pound- ing of tremendous breakers on a stormy shore: it is the guns of Verdun, Les Eparges and St. Mihiel. At rhythmic intervals this sound is punctuated by heavy crashing thuds nearer atJiand. They are shelling Dugny again. All the civilians fled yesterday. A driver, coming in last night, told us how they went, empty-handed, creeping along the edges of the roads under the cover of trees or brush, fearing to step out in the open lest they be spied and bombed by the German aeroplanes overhead. The church where they held the poilu's funeral has already been struck by a shell and the steeple demolished. In front of the house the street is quiet. All through the day the town seems a sleepy deserted place, but at night it is a different matter; then the real business of the day begins. Carts and camions may straggle past at odd intervals during the daylight hours, but with darkness, the traffic starts to pour by in a perfectly unbroken stream. One lies awake and listens, it seems for hours, to the absolutely incessant rattle of carts, trucks, caissons and gun car- riages passing along the road, until it seems as if the whole French Army must be on the move. Little Pauline is better today. She has just come running into the garden through the back gate, in company with a big curly dog. Rattentout they tell us is the "Dog Town" for this sector; every dog picked up near the front, lost mascots, faithful beasts looking for their masters, strays of every sort, are sent back here for keeping. Presently I must go in and help M. get the supper. Our food, THE FRONT 99 over and beyond what we brought from Bar-le-Duc in tins and sacks, is furnished us by the French Army. Every morning a dapper little corporal calls to take our orders. When the official inter- preter is out it falls to me to do the parleying. The corporal is patient and very military and oh so polite! He brings us fresh butter, fresh eggs, even so much as a quart of fresh milk, and the most delicious fresh French bread I have ever tasted. The first day he came he was dreadfully distressed; he had no fresh meat to offer us. This morning he shone with smiles. There was plenty of fresh beef now, plenty! We ordered some and ate it stewed for dinner. It was dark and tough and stringy. I could dare swear that I saw that "beef" freshly slaughtered yesterday at Dugny cross-roads. A French liaison officer called here this afternoon. He told me that it was quite true that a certain regiment of French infantry had gone into battle, each man carrying with him the wooden cross which was to mark his grave if he fell. To earn le croix de bois is the current slang phrase among the French to designate dying a soldier's death. Yesterday noon a detachment of marines arrived in Rattentout. During the day they must keep under cover, but last night after sundown they came out and played baseball in the street. When I looked out my window and saw those lads in olive drab nonchal- antly throwing and catching a baseball under my window, I felt as if something safe and sane had somehow appeared in the midst of a strange night-mare world. Rattentout, March 18. I have said; "Good-bye, Good luck!" to my boys. Today we received word that the first battalion of my regiment was to take its place in the trenches by Les Eparges at twelve o'clock tonight, leaving Genicourt where they have been billeted, at eight. I breathed a piteous appeal to the Chief. At five o'clock the car called for us. Earlier in the afternoon there had been an air battle over Geni- ioo RATTENTOUT court. I heard the soft whut, whut of the anti-aircraft guns, and later the staccato rattle of machine-guns in the air. Looking out I could see the planes, one German and two French darting among the shrapnel puffs, the German escaping, sad to say, unharmed. Now a French observation balloon was floating over Genicourt, a curious-looking thing shaped like a huge ram's head, and a dull green in color. As we neared the town they started to haul the balloon in: it came down with astonishing rapidity. We rolled into Genicourt, a sodden desolate village clinging under the lea of a low hill, just now alive with suppressed vitality. The boys had been ordered to keep their billets until the last moment, as any unusual number of men about might be observed by an enemy aeroplane. Nevertheless there were plenty of stragglers in the streets, while out of the windows were leaning several hundred more, craning their necks in order to get a glimpse of the des- cending balloon. We went to the Foyer du Soldat, a bright clean barracks, the walls covered with posters in vivid hues. It was full of our boys. They laughed, joked, played checkers and pounded the piano, some were dancing together. Yet through all the gaiety one had a sense of tension, of nervous strain. Some of the boys asked us to sing, one lad evidently in a more solemn mood repeatedly requested "My Country 'Tis of Thee." We sang the "Long, Long TraiT and "Keep the Home Fires Burning." Then we went out in the street again. The French, we gathered, were quite astonished at the high spirits of the Americans. "Ah, but it's their first time," they said. "After four years it will be different." In the public square they had been holding some sort of cere- mony, an interchange of formal greetings between the French and American officers. A French military band had just finished its programme. As we passed they played the Marseillaise and the Star Spangled Banner; we all stood at attention. We came to the street where Company A was billeted. The boys leaned out of the windows and waved and called to me. Every- where it was the same question: THE FRONT 101 "What shall I bring you from the trenches? " "Do you want a live Boche for a souvenir? I'll get you one!" They thought my gas-mask was a lovely joke. "What's that strap across your shoulder for?" they teased. "That? Oh that's my new Sam Browne belt!" " Say! Bet you don't know how to put it on! " Then they would yell "Gas!" just to frighten me. In the street a little crowd of boys were tossing coppers. Every- body was anxious to get rid of his "clackers," in order not to have to carry all that useless weight into the trenches with him. They invited me to join. I tried one penny while the boys all cheered, only to miss by a good yard. Lieut. B. came by: "Will you take tea with me in my dugout?" he asked. The order was given for the companies to form. The streets filled up; dusk was gathering. The Chief said that it was time to go. We found the car in the public square. Slowly we moved out of town. I shall never forget those long brown files drawn up against the dim grey houses. Five hours hence and those very boys would be in the front fine trenches, face to face with the enemy. We passed Company A. I called out to them to be sure not to stick their heads up over the top, and not to dare to take off their gas-masks before they were ordered to. Never before did I realize how much those boys meant to me. Each face I saw flashed some vivid unforgettable association to my mind. "When you come back," I called, "I'll be waiting for you with the hot chocolate ready." They smiled and waved Good-bye to me. Some of them held up their fingers to show how many Germans they were going to account for. A turn in the road shut it all from sight. On the way back to Rattentout we passed the Third Battalion, who were marching in on their very heels to take over their billets. It's eleven o'clock now. They must be almost in. They are marching, I know, in darkness and silence; not a cigarette is to be lighted, not a word spoken above a whisper. One hour more and the relief will be completed. 102 RATTENTOUT Rattentout, March 19. I am to be sent to Paris for reassignment. I have, it seems, been guilty of conduct unbecoming a lady under shell-fire. This sentence has been hanging over me ever since that day at Dugny. I knew of course that I was in disgrace but never dreamed that it would come to this. It seems, what no one had troubled to hint to me, that we have been allowed to go farther front than any women of any of the Allied Nations in France have been permitted to go to work before. Moreover that the French, whose guests we are in this sector, were very much opposed to the presence of women here, and only finally, after much persuasion, allowed us to come here on trial. Now the Chief says that he is afraid that my indiscreet action at Dugny in going down to the cross-roads instead of into a dugout may have shocked the French. In order to forestall any possible protest by our Allies I am to be made an example of the discipline of the organization. Etretat, Normandy. March 28. I have been here a week on leave. To-morrow I start back for Paris once more. Where I am to go after that is uncertain. It seems strange to be in France and not be wading through seas of mud, but to have firm turf and dry roads beneath one's feet. The hamlets here, while picturesque, are quite spruce and tidy, amaz- ingly different from the quaint but indescribably dirty little mud- pie muck-heap villages to which I have been used. This pretty little coast town, once a fishing village, then a sum- mer resort, is now chiefly a hospital. All the large hotels have been taken over for wards and nurses' quarters, the big casino filled with row on row of iron cots. It is an American hospital with American doctors, nurses and orderlies, but attached to the B. E. F. and filled of course with British patients. As in all the English hospitals, as soon as a patient is able to get out of bed he is dressed in a "suit of blues;" trousers and jumper blouse of bright blue cotton, white shirt, scarlet tie and handkerchief to match, making him look exactly like a grown-up. Greenaway boy. The men hate THE FRONT 103 them, they tell me, but I for one am grateful to the designer as the bright blue and scarlet makes wonderful splotches of color in the landscape. There may be a more disgusted set of boys in France than these here in the hospital corps at Base No. 2, but if so I have yet to meet them. One of the first units to come across, landing in May of 19 17, every man enlisted, so they tell me, because he thought it was the quickest means of getting to the front in field hospital service and most of them enlisted to do some form of specialized work; but, medical students, college professors, and motor experts, they each and all were given the job of hospital orderly which means scrubbing floors, washing windows, shovelling coal, doing the hard and dirty work of a hospital, and, most galling I fancy of all, — taking orders from girls with whom you are not allowed to associate or even speak except in the line of business. The X-ray expert has been delegated to the job of keeping the hospital pigs. I saw him in a pair of grimy overalls trundling a well-worn wheelbarrow down the street. The man who speaks eight languages, and en- listed as interpreter, spends his days checking up clothes in the laundry. And here as hospital orderlies in spite of their frantic efforts to get transferred, it seems likely that they will stay. But these are dark days for us all just now, with the news that comes in every day of the German drive. ''What do the officers in the hospital think? What do they say about it?" I tease the nurses. "They think that we will hold them," they reply, but none too hopefully. At the hotel where I am staying there is a French officer en per- mission, with his wife and apparently unlimited offspring. With them is an English governess. She is a little nervous thing all a-twitter these days with excitement and apprehension. Will the Germans get through to Paris? Monsieur's aged mother is there. He is thinking of going back to get her, together with a few essen- tial household treasures. She herself had fled with the family from Paris in 1914. It was a dreadful experience; fourteen people 104 RATTENTOUT crowded in a coach for six, and nothing to eat. Oh dear! wasn't it all just too terrible! There is also an old French lady here who frankly fled from Paris to escape the air-raids; now someone has taken all the joy out of life for her by suggesting that Etretat might be shelled from the sea by a German submarine. The Tommies in the hospitals, they say, flatly refuse to believe that Paris is being shelled. It isn't possible, they declare, for a gun to shoot as far as that, and to them that is the end of it. But to- night a little crowd of the hospital boys who had gone on pass to Paris came back as eye-witnesses. One of the first shells had fallen very close to them, killing a number of people who were sitting drink- ing in a sidewalk cafe. The boys had gone up to the Church of Sacre Cceur on Montmartre and from the tower there had watched the shelling of the city. It had been a beautiful clear day: they could see where each shell struck. One of the boys brought back with him for a souvenir a piece of a French lieutenant's skull, picked up, after the shell had wrecked the cafe, from the sidewalk. Tonight there was a concert at the Y hut here. The hall was crowded; the concert party, a group of pretty girls, had just com- pleted, to much applause, the first number, when a horn sounded in the distance. Everybody started up. The Y man stepped for- ward and announced the programme over. In a few minutes the hut was deserted. "The convoy is in," they said, which meant that a train load of wounded had arrived at the station. Paris, Easter Sunday. On the way here from Etretat I saw a sight which brought the war closer to me somehow than anything before; at the junction station connecting the line to Le Havre with the line to Amiens, a string of box cars full of women, little children and decrepit old men, packed in like cattle, fleeing before the German drive, many of them empty-handed, others with a few pathetic futile treasures, a hen or two, a copper cooking-pot, snatched up evidently in a moment of half-witless panic haste. THE FRONT 105 Nor is Paris itself without its refugees. The German advance, the air-raids, the shelling, culminating in the Good Friday horror, have combined to render the city half deserted. "Paris? We call Paris 'the front' nowadays," one Frenchman on the journey had remarked to me. Yesterday I went shopping. Everywhere it was the same reply. Nothing could be made to order for an indefinite period, the work- rooms were all deserted, the workers fled. As for those who re- main, they seem to take life calmly enough; what else can they do? When, as yesterday, every sixteen minutes a tremendous jarring crash tells you that a shell has fallen somewhere in the city, — and the concussion is so great that it always sounds as if it had fallen in the next block! — you see people turn their heads as they walk, staring in the direction of the explosion; others come out on the balconies to see what they can see and that is all. Of course the danger of all this lies in its effect on the civilian morale. In connection with this I learned an interesting thing today. While the hospitals outside are over-crowded, the hospitals in Paris with their splendid equipment and staffs are left half empty, because they dare not show the people of Paris too many wounded. And when convoys are brought into the city, they are often detained outside, sometimes for hours, in order that the wounded may be transferred to the hospitals at night. Yesterday at Brentano's I got talking with a boy who belonged to the American Ambulance Section which is attached to the French. He told me an incident which struck my fancy: One night, at the front, after a hard day's work, he had just dropped off to sleep when he was awakened. There was a bless e to be taken back to the hospital, he was in bad shape, they had placed him in an ambulance. The boy rolled out of his blankets, started up the car. It was a bitter night. Once he was on his way everything went wrong; the water had frozen in the radiator, he had to get out and crawl along the ditches on his hands and knees, trying, in the dark to find a pool that was still unfrozen. And all 106 RATTENTOUT the while he was tortured by the thought that the life of the wounded man in the car depended probably on his speed in reaching the hospital, and this urged him to an agony of haste. Finally, as the dawn was breaking, he reached his goal. They came to carry the blesse in. The wounded man was dead; he had been dead, it was evident, some while before the boy started. At the front, he ex- plained, they hate to take the time and trouble to bury bodies. So whenever it is possible they work this method of passing on the task to someone else. You have to be constantly on the look-out for such tricks. This time they had fooled him. Last night there was an air-raid. It was a mild affair. I was awakened by the sirens. They make what is to me quite the most fascinatingly horrible sound I have ever heard. That long agon- ized wail, now sinking to a shuddering whimper, now rising to a banshee screech, flashes vividly to my mind's eye a myriad little demons sitting on the roofs of Paris, cowering, shivering, crying out their abject terror. I went to the window and looked out, but although my room is on the top floor of the hotel, I could see noth- ing and so went back to bed again. The anti-aircraft guns put up a tremendous barrage; they have them mounted on trucks now so they can quickly be shifted from point to point about the city. I am sure there was a whole battery just in front of the hotel. Today the papers inform us that the Gothas were driven back after reaching the suburbs. This morning I went to service at Notre Dame, entering through piles of sand bags heaped so as to hide the carvings about the door- ways. In that vast cathedral only a few were present, a fair share of the congregation being comprised of Americans. Tonight an ambulance driver attached to one of the Paris hospi- tals came to the hotel for dinner. He spread a startling tale. Every ambulance in the city has been ordered to be in readiness; for tomorrow, it has been learned, twenty-seven long-range guns are to be turned at once on Paris! THE FRONT 107 Aix-les-Bains, April 6. When they said "Leave Area" to me my heart sank. The Lady in the Office explained to me how very important she considered the work, and the assignment, she added, need not be permanent. "Very well" I said, "I'm willing to go there temporarily." I left Paris Tuesday, taking the night train. Getting off was something of an ordeal. The lighting at the stations, as on the streets, has been reduced almost to the vanishing point. The great Gare de Lyon was filled with a mass of distraught humanity over whom the few violet-blue bulbs cast a ghostly glimmer. There were no porters to take one's luggage; a number of women had possessed themselves of the baggage trucks and were pushing them, heaped high with bags and household stuff, recklessly through the crowds. I could find no officials anywhere about. All the French orderliness and red tape seemed to have been swept clean away and the result was chaos. Somehow, I don't know quite how, I found my train and reached my seat. Three very fat old gentlemen and one old lady occupied the compartment with me. The fat gentlemen had one little spoiled dog between them which they kept passing from one to the other, in order that each in turn might kiss him. The old lady had a bird in a cage; presently she opened her hand-bag and brought out her supper, a loaf of bread, junwrapped, together with a good- sized turtle. For a moment, such were her raptures over her pet, I thought that she was going to kiss the turtle. The first minute that one of my companions entered the compartment, each in- formed all the rest that he or she was not running away from the air-raids or the long range guns. "I? / am not afraid of the Kaiser's Gothas! I laugh at them! " A few minutes later however they began: Ah, what a fearful night, last night had been! Five hours in the Caves! No sleep at all! One might as well be a mole and take up one's dwelling underground. What a life! Oh it was terrible, terrible! Then one old gentleman turned proudly to the little fat canine. "But of a verity, my little Toto is possessed of a sagacity extraordinary. The moment that he hears the sirens, 108 RATTENTOUT he will run down into the cellar, and nothing can induce him to come up again until the 'all clear' has sounded!" We pulled into Aix soon after dawn as the rising sun was touch- ing the tops of the mountains and the morning mists were hover- ing over the lake. Whatever the work may prove to be like here, the place is surpassingly lovely. It is too early for the summer resort pleasure seekers. The French don't care for it here until it grows really hot, they tell us. But to me the season is at its most appealing rnoment. One glimpses pink peach blossoms against the blue lake over which stand purple mountains with snow still lying on their summits. Several of the large hotels and casinos have been requisitioned for French convalescent hospitals, but the largest of all has been taken over by the Y. JFrom this canteen excursions are constantly setting out, motor-boats on the lake, motor cars to Chambery, the cog-wheel railway up Mt. Revard, picnics, hikes and fishing parties, yet many of the boys seem to find it pleasantest to do nothing, — just to sit around in lazy com- fort all day long, watching the others playing billiards, listening to the orchestra in the afternoon beneath the gold mosaic casino dome, sitting luxuriously in a box at the vaudeville in the evening, gaining a maximum of pleasure with a minimum of exertion. Many of the boys came here with their heads full of pessimistic expecta- tions. "They told us it would be Reveille and Retreat and one day's K. P. for each of us," confided one lad to me. Some brought their mess-kits and some even their blankets. When they find themselves guests in hotels that are among the finest in Europe, lodged in comfortable rooms, eating real food off tables furnished with china-ware and linen, at first they are fairly dazed. "I'm feared somebody'll pinch me an' I'll wake up," declared one lad today. More than one has told me, that the first night he got here, he could not go to sleep in bed at all and only finally achieved slumber by rolling himself in blankets on the floor. THE FRONT 109 There are no troops from the line here at present; only boys from forestry regiments, motor mechanics and a few lads from medical detachments. They are holding up the leaves of all com- batant troops on account of the drive. It may be that presently they will hold up all leaves altogether. Then we will have to shut up shop here temporarily. It is the pleasant custom here for the Y ladies to go down to the train every night to see the boys off. "It's a shame you can't stay longer," we say tothem. "I'll say it is!" "I'm awfully sorry you have to go." "You ain't half so sorry as I am, Lady." "Maybe some day you'll be coming back again." "I'll tell the world one thing; I'm going to be good as gold when I get back to camp, so they'll let me." One of the Y women tonight repeated what one boy on leaving had confided to her: "If I said to you that this had been my happiest week since I joined the army it wouldn't mean much," he told her, "but that's not what I'm going to say. What I'm going to say is that this has been the happiest week of all my life." So far I have found just one man who wasn't enjoying himself here. He had been stationed for six months at Paris. Aix, he declared, "Weren't no town at all, nothin' but a one-horse place." He evidently had no soul for the beauties of nature. Paris, April 22. They held the leaves up. The boys kept leaving; fewer and fewer came, then finally none. Last week they disbanded the force of workers at Aix; a few stayed to look after things until such time as the crowds should start to pour in again; the rest v/ere sent back to Paris to be reassigned. If I thought the trip down was a chore, it wasn't a patch on the trip back. We waited half the night for the train at the Aix rail- way station. When it finally pulled in, I found my seat was in a no RATTENTOUT compartment which was full, and had evidently been so for hours, of French people. Now life in France tends to cure you of belief in several popular superstitions; one is the idea that it is dangerous to have wet feet, and another that there is anything in the germ theory; but there is one notion to which I still cling, an obstinate belief in the desirability of fresh air. I putmy head in the compart- ment, then withdrew, shutting the door. For the twelve hours it took to reach Paris I stood up outside in the corridor. Arrived in Paris, they assigned me temporarily to the Avenue Montaigne Club House. This is a beautiful building, the home of one of Napoleon's generals; but the best thing about it is the tea-room restaurant, for here they serve apple-pie, chocolate cake and ice-cream. Since the latest food restrictions were issued, forbidding the French to make desserts employing milk, cream, sugar, eggs or flour, such dainties have been unobtainable any- where else in Paris; but the Americans drawing supplies from their own commissary, are of course untouched by such regulations. Indeed the saddest sign in France these days I often think is that over the deserted shops which reads Patisserie. To be sure some of these stores still make a show at doing business, filling their windows with raisins, dried prunes and other prosaic edibles, to- gether with heaps of pseudo-chocolates wrapped gayly in tin-foil, but which when purchased proved to be nothing but what one boy termed "the same old camouflage," — an unappetizing paste of dried fruits and ground nuts. Yesterday a curly-headed lad, who looked about sixteen, came into the canteen carrying a big bunch of pink carnations. These were for the waitresses, he said, because they were the first American ladies that he had seen in France. We each pinned a spray to the front of our pink aprons, and then, since he pretended famine, let him have "seconds", — quite against the rules — on everything, with all the ice-cream and cake that he could swallow. Yesterday I saw Mr. T. who was with us for a while at Goncourt. He told me that French troops en repos were occupying that area at present. They had asked for the use of our hut and of course THE FRONT in it had been granted them. A Y man, happening by the other day, had stopped in. They had converted our beautiful hut into a regu- lar French Cantine with three men to hand the bottles over the counter "and a smell enough to knock you down." Who shall say that this is the least of life's little ironies? This morning I met N. who had reached Rattentout the day I left. She tells me that all the villages occupied by our troops in the sector have, one by one, been shelled. Rattentout was shelled and two Frenchwomen killed. Because of the constant shelling all the Y women workers had been withdrawn from the canteens and sent back to safety at Souilly where they have nothing to do but sit and possess their souls in patience. Tonight they gave me my new assignment. It is at Gondrecourt. I leave tomorrow. I am glad, so glad over the prospect of being back on a real job once more! Here at the Avenue Montaigne as in the gilded casino at Aix I have been desperately homesick, to be back in a real hut again! CHAPTER IV GONDRECOURT THE ARTILLERY Gondrecourt, April 28. Gondrecourt is quite a place. It boasts a brewery, a hotel, a mediaeval tower and a number of little stores. Each one of these stores contains at least one pretty girl on its selling force and the ratio between the sales of goods and the charms of the ladies is, I fancy, quite exact. From the military point of view Gondre- court is important as being the site of the First Army Corps Train- ing Schools. But to me the really distinguishing feature of Gondre- court is the fact that it boasts a bath-tub. If anybody had said bath-tub to me the day before I arrived here, I would have said with the doughboy that, — short of Paris — "there ain't no such animal." But now I have beheld it with my own eyes, a white- enamelled bath-tub, a Y. M. C. A. bath-tub, in the basement at Headquarters. The tub is supposed to be a strictly family affair, — on the door are posted hours for the Lady Secretaries and hours for the Men Secretaries, — but in spite of the plain English before their eyes, it seems that army officers occasionally slip in and steal a bath off us, yes, even impinging on the sacred bath hours of the ladies! My first day here they sent me to "The Cafe." This was once a very wild place indeed. When the Y. first came to Gondrecourt it tried to buy the proprietor out, but the proprietor refused; he was doing too profitable a business. Then one night Providence sent some Boche planes wandering in this direction. There was a panic among the populace; the proprietor, with visions of his place wrecked by a bomb, sold out in a hurry and left town. Since then the Cafe has led a reformed and decorous existence but the old THE ARTILLERY 113 name still clings. My second day I spent at the " Double Hut," the big hut built up on the hill close by the Infantry School. The third day I was introduced to my own canteen. According to directions, I climbed the hill by my billet, went past the athletic field, past the warehouse and out along the edge of the rolling open upland. About half a mile out of town I came to a group of seven French barracks, covered with black tar paper, built at the edge of the railway cut. This was the Artillery School. I crossed the field, entered the nearest barracks which bore a Y. sign at one end, and found myself in a Greenwich Village Tea House. I stood and stared. Some modern-school interior decorator had been at work. The place was a riot of red, yellow, salmon- color and black, worked out from a nasturtium motif. In the wall panels were paintings, some conventionalized fruits and flow- ers, evidently done by the decorator; others, landscapes, Japanese scenes and some rather awful Indians just as evidently executed by the boys. The whole effect to be sure was a bit sketchy and in spots frankly unfinished, and yet to one used to such simplicity in the huts as I, the ensemble was startling. Back of the black and orange partition which screens the canteen and the kitchen from the hut proper, I found the staff, secretary and canteen worker. The lady whom I am to replace, it appears, belongs in reality to the Motor Transport Section. She turned canteen worker to help out in a pinch, and now is anxious to return again. When dinner-time came the Motor Transport girl told me that we had been invited to dine at the camp. We went over to the mess-hall. "Let's help feed the chow-line for a lark!" said the M. T. girl. So we stood behind the serving-bench and ladled out big spoonfuls of mashed potato and gravy. This amused the boys immensely; and as they passed they would sing out: "When did they put you on K. P?" "What have you done to deserve this?" The kitchen was white-washed and specklessly clean, the earth floor was covered with cinders. These cinders which are in use for floors and walks in all the camps about, come, I am told, from ii 4 GONDRECOURT a great heap down by the river which marks the site of one of Napoleon's cannon foundries. "Why are the boxers in a company always found on the kitchen force? " I asked one of the cooks. "That's so they can handle the boys when they come back for seconds." As soon as the chow-line had been fed, the M. T. girl and I had ours with the Top Sergeant. After dinner the Top Sergeant, who had formerly been mess sergeant, was moved to unburden his soul as to the sorrows of a mess sergeant. "When I was mess sergeant," he reminisced, "I sure got to know the way to a man's heart all right. Why, the days when I gave them a good dinner there wasn't a man in camp who wouldn't positively beam at me; but if something had gone wrong and the chow wasn't up to scratch, half the fellers in the company wouldn't speak to me the rest of the day." Then he grinned. "I wouldn't want Mother to know the way I used to get stuff for the boys last winter." He went on to tell us. French freight trains have no brakemen and the conductor rides in a caboose directly behind the coal car. Trains pulling into town from the north hit a grade curve close to the camp, up which they must pull very slowly. The camp guard kept a lookout; when a freight train with flat cars was sighted, word was immediately passed to the mess sergeant who with a number of K. P.s hurried to the tracks and boarded the slow-mov- ing train; if the cars proved to holdjmy thing of value for the mess, — be it coal or cabbages, — all the way up the grade the sergeant and his assistants were busy, hastily throwing or shoveling what they could over the sides of the cars. At thejtop of the grade they would jump off and returning along the tracks, gather up the spoils. Tomorrow the Motor Transport girl departs and I "take over" the canteen. GONDRECOURT, MAY 4. The Artillery School consists of some few hundred officers and non-coms enrolled for each four-weeks' course, in addition to the THE ARTILLERY 115 two batteries who are here, for demonstration work; .Battery D from a regiment of "75s" and Battery A from a regiment of the big "155s." Selected for this exhibition jvork on account of their ex- ceptional ability, they are, I suppose, the equal of any batteries in the world. When the boys enlisted these batteries were declared to be about to be "motorized," but at present the motor power is being supplied by a particularly unresponsive set of French cart horses, whose daily care is the greatest trial of the boys' lives. Last night we had a movie-show; one reel gave the story of a discontented boy on the farm — showing him at one moment disgustedly groom- ing Dobbin. For a full minute it seemed as if the roof of the hut was going to be hf ted right off. The officers' quarters and the class-rooms lie across the railroad track from the camp, in the grounds of the Chateau. Here they have a canteen of their own, a cool little place in cream color and blue presided over by a most refreshing and delightful English lady. The Chateau itself was partially destroyed by fire a few years ago and though the lower story is available for offices, the upper story stands roofless, with empty windows staring against the sky. Every now and then a rumour goes the rounds: — Per- shing is going to move his headquarters to Gondrecourt, — the Chateau is to be repaired for Jiis use! The Chateau and the school buildings stand on high ground. To the south the ground falls away suddenly; below is "off limits" and is Fairyland. Here are meadows warm with the color of spring flowers, here are groves such as one sees in the pictures of Eighteenth Century shepherds and shepherdesses, and here is the river flowing so placidly that its waters seem to form still lagoons, white-flecked with swans and arched with rustic bridges. Here while the boys are at their mess, I have been stealing to eat my picnic supper; an orange, a sand- wich and a piece of chocolate. The guard walking post at the foot of the embankment shuts one eye as I go past, — and usually gets half of my supper! For that matter I gather he is there largely for the sake of appearance, for there's not a boy in camp I'm sure who hasn't explored those groves, fed the swans, and angled for u6 GONDRECOURT fish in the river. And the only reason, I'm certain, that they don't surreptitiously go in swimming there is that the water, fed by springs, is cold as ice! Nor is the touch of romance that should go with such a setting absent. One of the cooks in the officers' mess kitchen is deep in an affair with Lucile, the caretaker's daughter, a girl like a wild rose, shy, slender, freshly-tinted. Every other night when he is off duty he carries her chocolate from the canteen and she " gives him a French lesson." " Serious?" I asked inquisitively. "Fat chance!" he glowered at me frankly. "She tells me that she's engaged to twelve fellows now already and that twelve's enough." The proprietor of the Chateau, Monsieur S., has the distinction of being the father of ten girls. I like to fancy that the spirits of the ten lovely daughters, — for lovely they must be, as no French- man, I am sure, would have the courage to father ten homely ones! — haunt the Chateau gardens. The boys, however, don't have to rely on phantoms for thrills of this sort. Yesterday, they tell me, that during the progress of an exciting ball-game on the Y. athletic field a beautiful lady dressed a la Parisienne strolled by. The batter dropped his bat, the pitcher forgot his ball; the game came to a dead halt until the beautiful lady had passed out of sight. GONDRECOURT, MAY 13. The Secretary is sick. He lies in his little bed-room office and reads the latest magazines and gossips with his visitors while I attempt to run the hut single-handed. At times during this last week I have been strongly tempted to get sick myself. Indeed I think I probably would have done so if it hadn't been for Snow. Snow, Snowball or Ivory as he is variously called, is Battery D's albino cook. "Say, ain't I the whitest-haired beggar you ever did see?" he asked me the other day in a sort of naive wonder at him- self. "Anyway, nobody ever had a cleaner-looking cook," re- marked the Top Sergeant, ex-Mess Sergeant. Snow has the sweet- THE ARTILLERY 117 est disposition in the world. "If Snow was starving to death," declared one of the boys to me today, " and somebody gave him a sandwich, and he thought you were the least bit hungry, he'd give you that sandwich." Ever since the Secretary has been sick, Snow has been bringing him toast and eggs and things while he has brought me lemon pies, the most wonderful lemon pies that ever I tasted. Already Snow has come to be looked upon by the boys as an authority on all things pertaining to the canteen and has to stand a battery of searching questions, such as, whether he thinks that my hair is really all my own? Just to add to all our other troubles this week we have run amuck of the Major. This I suspect was all my fault. I was fu- rious because when he came into the hut he made the boys stand at attention. This was something I had never seen done before and is, I am sure, contrary to all the rules. J was so angry that when the Major came up to the counter I stood and glared at him. "You will find the Secretary in his office," I said and turned and walked out the back door. It was the Major's turn to be angry then. He stalked out behind the counter, looking for trouble, and began to hold an inspection in the kitchen. The Secretary appeared, the Major let loose. That kitchen, he declared, was not up to army standards in cleanliness. This was a matter of utmost importance. Hereafter the medical officer would inspect the kitchen daily. Then he proceeded to prescribe a schedule of canteen hours outside of which nothing at all must be sold. Now I admit that kitchen hasn't been quite all it might be. It is a small, overcrowded place, built of rough dirty boards and there are no shelves, nor of course running water, nor conveniences of any kind. Moreover, the Major, I learn, has the reputation of being a tartar in this respect; "Major Mess Kit" they call him because of the rigour of his inspections. The next morning the medical officer arrived at the crack of dawn. He found the chocolate cups from the night before unwashed. He was shocked. He too read the Secretary a lecture. Then he departed to do the sensible, the saving thing, which was to rec- n8 GONDRECOURT ommend to the Major that we be allowed a detail. So it all worked out for the best in the end. " Neddy" as we have christened the detail is now a part of the family. A shy, dreamy lad, he is ;at hand to help from early morning until closing time at nine at night, and I actually have to shoo him out to his meals. The only trou- ble with Neddy is that he is so good I am sure that he is going to die young. And besides Neddy I now have a pet bugaboo. This has proved so useful these last few days that I don't know how I ever kept a canteen without one. Now any time that officers come to my kitchen door to tease for cigarettes out of selling hours I can gleefully tell them: "Oh, but I wouldn't dare! The Major, you know! He's ex- pressly forbidden it! If I did and he learned about it, he would surely have me court-martialed!" Of course when the boys come out of hours that is quite a dif- ferent matter. Then, too, as the Major is detested by the men, this furnishes a common bond of sympathy. This morning a boy came to my back door to borrow our axe in order to chop up the Major's wood. "You can have it on one condition," I told him. "What's that?" "That you chop off the Major's head with it too." GONDRECOURT, MAY 24. I have always cherished a secret longing to have pets in my can- teen: I have heard of huts that kept kittens and canaries, and once I visited in one where an ant-eater, if not an habitue, was at least a frequent and honoured guest and sat in the ladies' laps at the movie-shows. At various times I have considered and regretfully abandoned the project 4 i A man secretary and I are to run the hut together; a minister in the states, here he answers to the unvarying title of " Chief. " The " Chief" I find at present chiefly remarkable for his trousers. These are garments with a past apparently and a present of such a sort that in the company of ladies he is only rendered at ease by assuming a sitting posture. If compelled to rise he backs out of your presence as if you were royalty or goes with the gesture of the little boy who has been chastised. Outside the house, no matter how fine the day may be, he goes discreetly clad in a raincoat. " I must," declares the Chief at least six times a day, "go to Toul and get a new uniform." "Amen," say I under my breath. Besides the outfits stationed in town there are some twenty more in the neighborhood which draw their rations here at the railhead and then there are the leave trains on their way to or from Ger- many, whose passing, like a visitation of locusts, leaves the can- teen stripped and bare. The negro labor troops in the vicinity supply quite a new element. Sometimes this takes the form of a bit of humour. Last night I had drawn several cups of cocoa ahead of the demand when a darky lad came shyly up to the counter and pointed to one. "Please ma'am," he asked, "am dat cup occupied?" There is one fat and genial little darky who is a constant cus- tomer, always he comes in munching a sandwich or an orange or some other edible bought from a street-vendor. "Eating again, Jo?" asked the Chief today. "Why Boss," expostulated Jo, "I only eats one meal a day! But dat," he grinned, "am all de time!" "Shines" the boys invariably call them. Tonight we were amused to see a negro corporal, who, not con- tent with the chevrons on his sleeve, had sewed an additional pair on his overseas cap! Conflans, March 14. My family at the hut consists of the Chief, Harry, Jerry and Slim. Harry and Jerry are as nice lads as one could find anywhere, 242 CONFLANS but Slim is the bird that hatched out of the cuckoo's egg. Lean, uncouth, according to his own claim, "the tallest man that Uncle Sam's got in his army," with an inordinately long neck and an Adam's apple so prominent as to give him the appearance of an ostrich in the act of swallowing a perpetual orange, "Slim Old Horse" as the boys call him, seems to me at times more like an ani- mated caricature of the middle west "Long Boy" than a being of flesh and blood and bone. How he ever became attached to the Y. is a point on which nobody seems certain, but here he is and here he sticks in spite of every effort to dislodge him. I fancy his "Top Kick" was only too glad to get rid of him and when he discovered Slim's inclination toward the Y. simply let him go and washed his hands of him. Slim's health is uncertain. Most of the time he only feels well enough to sit in the office and eat or "chaw." "I started in ter chaw terbaccer," — he talks with a nasal twang which is impossible to reproduce, — "when I was a kid four years old; when my daddy an' my mammy found it out, they sure did start ter raise hell with me, but I says to 'em; 'All right, have it your way, but then it will be whisky and rum fer mine, when I'm twenty-one!' So my mammy says 'Let 'im chaw.' An' I've chawed ever sence." "I've only got one lung," he remarked the other day, "and that's a little one." "Slim," I urged, "I'm worried about you. You oughtn't to be here. You ought to be in the hospital where you could be properly cared for. Go to your medical officer and tell him from me that he must send you to the hospital." Slim reluctantly departed. I dared to hope we had seen the last of him. But before the afternoon was over he was back on his old perch. He had brought some little pills back with him. Just wait, I thought, until I meet that medical officer! Slim seldom feels attracted to the meals at the mess-hall. So he sits in the office and lives chiefly upon cheese ; Y. M. C. A. cheese purchased to make sandwiches for the canteen at a cost of a dol- lar and a quarter a pound. Sometimes he fries himself eggs, tak- PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 243 ing whatever mess-kit, Harry's or Jerry's or mine, happens to be handy and never, in spite of anything I can say, will he wash it up after him ! Sometimes Harry and Jerry and I decide that instead of going to mess we would like to have a supper-party at the can- teen ourselves, and then the question is, how to get rid of Slim? "Slim, it's getting near chow-time," we say, "I'll bet they're going to have mashed potatoes and brown gravy tonight. Isn't that 'Soupy' I hear going now?" But Slim refuses to budge any more than a bump on a log, so we usually have to end by inviting him. But if I find Slim a bur- den, how must the Chief feel toward him? For Slim has appro- priated the extra cot in the office, which also serves as the Chief's bed-room, and so has fairly camped down on him. And the Chief is a gentleman of nerves and delicate perceptions. "He gets up in the middle of the night," confided the Chief to me today in an almost awe-struck voice, "and he goes for the water-bucket and drinks a half a pail without stopping. He makes a noise just like a horse swallowing it." I have given up trying to do anything with Slim. Nothing that I can say seems to make the least impression on him. Slim is a married man, yet yesterday I caught him embracing Louise, Madame's cross-eyed maid of all work, in the passage-way. I undertook to reprove him. 'Why that ain't nawthin !" he turned a blameless and unabashed eye upon me. "That's jest a man's nature." This is the first time that I have eaten regularly from a mess- kit and I am learning things. I have learned that the aluminum mess-cup draws the heat from the hot coffee so that it is impossible to drink out of one until the liquid has become half-way cold, and that it is most unappetizing to have to wash one's mess-kit afterwards in a pail of greasy soap suds in which a hundred odd other mess-kits have already been bathed. I used to tease the boys with their mess-cups in the chocolate line by telling them that I could tell just how recently they had had inspection by the shine on their mess-cups, but now whenever I look at the 244 CONFLANS state of my own cup I think I won't have the face to ever tease them that way again! I have also learned that cold "gold fish" or "sewer carp," as the boys call their canned salmon, is just as bad as they say it is, and that slum made of hunks of bacon, potatoes, onions and unlimited water is no easy thing to swallow. But this sounds ungrateful and I don't mean to be, for the cooks are nice as can be and never say a word no matter how late I may be. While as for the boys, they put on all their company manners for me. Here at the hut we are busy building an addition in order to enlarge our restaurant business. This is in the shape of a room on the terrace. The Germans had kindly built a roof over one end, a detail from the ordnance detachment at Jarny is enclosing the sides; we are to have three real glass windows looking out onto the street and a door connecting the terrace-room with the present canteen. This afternoon the detail ran out of lumber; the Chief managed to get the loan of a truck to fetch some more. He asked Slim to go with the truck. The afternoon wore away, neither Slim nor the truck appeared, the detail, disgusted, sat and twiddled their thumbs. Nobody could understand what had happened as the lumber yard was just around the corner! Jerry went out to search. There was no trace of Slim or the truck to be found. About five o'clock he turned up. He had gone to Mars-la-Tour he told us coolly. We had been talking of going to the commissary at Mars-la-Tour for canteen supplies, and that great goose had gotten into his head that the lumber was to be obtained there! At least that is his explanation. But Harry and Jerry insinuate darker things: 'We didn't know you had a girl in Mars-la-Tour before," they tease. "Oh Slim, you old devil, you!" I wonder now, just what was he up to in Mars-la-Tour all after- noon? Conflans, March 19. Why is it that all the world loves a rascal? What is the secret of the fascination that outlaw and free-booter have exercised PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 245 from Robin Hood down to Captain Kidd? Is it because each one of us, in our secret hearts, would like to go and do likewise, if we only dared? Of all the minor piracies committed by the A. E. F. in France, none, I think, are so picturesque as those of the ■ — Engineers. The — Engineers are a railroad regiment. My first acquaint- ance with them was last summer. A company of these engineers was located at a station on the Paris line just north of us. It was a point at which supplies for the American front were trans- ferred from the standard gauge to the American narrow gauge; in order to effect these transfers the — Engineers had a switch of their own. Now freight trains in France are quite unguarded and so at the mercy of marauders. Indeed the losses in transit have been so serious that since the armistice it has been the custom to have cars containing American goods " convoyed " to their destination by soldier guards. Last summer of course the men could not be spared for convoy duty. So it was the eas- iest thing in the world for the — Engineers to "cut out" a Y. or a Red Cross car, side-track it, and lighten the load at their lei- sure. "I went through their company store-house while I was there," a Q. M. sergeant told me, "and it was as well stocked with deli- cacies as the store-rooms of a big hotel back in the States." No wonder there was such a dearth of supplies at Abainville last summer! But it was after the — Engineers moved into the occupied area here following the armistice that they performed their most notorious exploits. Assigned to run a stretch of railway in co- operation with the French, a certain amount of friction was inevitable from the start, the red tape in the French railway system exasperating the Americans as much as our more direct methods scandalized the French. Finally the French protests at the Americans* disregard for the formalities of railroading moved the engineer officers to stricter discipline. "I'll hang the next man of you who runs a train out of the yards without a pilot!" 246 CONFLANS declared one captain. After that things went more smoothly, — on the surface. Then came the Dance. Now unfortunately for the — Engineers there is an extra large M. P. force here at Conflans under a Major whose greatest delight in life is the detection and punishment of both major and minor infractions of the law. The Dance was quite an affair over which the — Engineers had spread themselves and to which the French fair sex was generally invited. When the party was about to begin, however, it became evident that the feminine partners afforded locally were all too few. Some bold soul had a bright idea; a train-crew forth- with hurried down to the yards, commandeered an engine and a couple of cars, and, in spite of the horrified protests of the French railroad men, ran it to a nearby town. Here they filled up the train with girls from the village and were about to start back again when a detachment of M. P.s, rushed up in autos from Conflans, broke in upon the scene. A sanguine scrimmage en- sued, resulting in a victory for law and order. In the meanwhile, back at the dance hall the engineers were waiting in impatient expectation for partners. Among the in- vited guests were two friendly M. P.s, old soldiers, with genial dis- positions and several wound stripes to their credit. When word reached the party that the M. P.s had prevented the arrival of the " Mademoiselles' ' the engineers were furious. "Kill the M. P.s!" went up the cry. Catching sight of the red-arm bands on their two innocent guests the crowd started for them with the evident intention of making a beginning then and there. Heaven only knows what would have happened if the two M. P.s, by affecting an exit at the double-quick, hadn't immediately made their escape, unharmed but badly scared. The most notable exploit of the — Engineers occurred not long afterwards. It is referred to as the Affair of the Serge Uni- forms. One fine day, not very long ago, it was noised abroad that a car full of tailored serge uniforms, consigned to and paid for by officers of the Army of Occupation in Luxembourg, was standing PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 247 down in the yards. The idea of going home in an officer's serge uniform from which, of course, the braid on the cuffs had been discreetly ripped, made a strong appeal to the boys' imaginations. When the time came for that car to be sent to Luxembourg it was found to be quite empty. But for once the Engineers had gone too far. The M. P. Major took the war-path. Word flew around the camp that a strict search was being conducted. The possessors of the incriminating uniforms must get rid of them and get rid of them quick. Some hid them in out-of-the-way places, between the floors and ceilings in the half-ruined houses; others frantically ripped the uniforms to pieces and burned them in the barracks stoves. The camp, they tell me, was full of the stench of scorching woolen. Still others got rid of them by plant- ing them among the possessions of their innocent neighbors. One company postal clerk, a most upright and blameless lad, to his horror discovered one of the fatal uniforms stuffed in a mail-bag lying at his feet. Before the search party had made its rounds most of those serge uniforms had been safely disposed of; a few, a very few were found. But now, having been baulked in his attempt to bring the culprits to justice, it is common rumour, that the M. P. Major is lying low, waiting to "fix" the — Engineers. Conflans, March 23. The — Engineers have left. They are on their way to Le Mans, presumably the first stage of their journey home. Their departure was not unmarked by incident.* At the last moment, when they had all entrained and were ready to pull out of the sta- tion, the M. P. Major sallied forth, court-martials in his eye, to search the trains for contraband. But he had reckoned without the Colonel of the engineers who flatly refused to allow any such procedure. Being outranked by the Colonel, the M. P. Major was seemingly helpless. Then, however, the Colonel made a bad mistake. There were two train loads. The Colonel left with the first. The second, being left without any protector of sufficiently 248 CONFLANS high rank, fell an easy prey to the Major. He searched to his heart's content, discovering several articles of unlawful loot and, one unfortunate clad in one of the notorious serge uniforms! The train was held in the yards while the M. P. Major indulged in an orgy of court-martials. On the morning of the departure the captain of the motor unit where we had messed stopped in to speak to me. He came by request of the boys to bring an apology for any careless language which might have been uttered unwittingly in my hearing! Then the captain of another unit called to tell us, sub rosa, that, forced by shortage of transportation, he was leaving behind an over supply of rations which would be ours for the fetching. We fetched accordingly and found that we had fallen heir to dozens of loaves of bread, sugar, coffee, canned meat, canned tomatoes, hard bread, soap and unlimited beans. What to do with these surreptitious stores is now the embarrassing question. One simply can't offer the boys hard bread, tomatoes plain or scalloped, in the canteen, no matter if one should dress them with all the sauces of Epicurus and serve them on gold-plate. Yet they mustn't be wasted. What's more, the fact that they are in our possession must be kept absolutely dark, lest we get the kind captain into trouble. I feel something like the man who was presented with a million dollar check and then found he couldn't cash it. With the — Engineers went Harry, Jerry, and Slim. I couldn't believe until the last moment that Slim was actually going. His departure almost compensated for the loss of Harry and Jerry. But though gone, he is not forgotten. This morning a lad came into the canteen. He would like his watch please, he said. I looked blankly at him. He explained; several days ago, just as he was leaving on a long truck-trip, he had broken the strap of his wrist watch. Happening to be in front of the Y. just then, he had brought it in and left it for safe-keeping "with the Y. man in the office." The Chief knew nothing of it. "What did the Y. man look like?" I questioned. He described him. It was Slim. We have searched every nook PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 249 and cranny of that office, hoping to come upon the missing watch, in vain. "I'll come in again," said the boy. "Perhaps by that time you will have found it." But personally I am sure that that watch is now on its way to Le Mans, en route for the States. Was there ever anything more wretchedly embarrassing? Conflans, March 27. This is a curious world. Six "Relief Trains" pass through here every day bound east, loaded with food for Germany. Mean- while in the little half-ruined hamlets within a stone's throw of the tracks the French villagers, for whom no provision has been made, are famine-stricken. Lieutenant A. came in from the little town of Pierrefond which lies between Conflans and Verdun yesterday. "They have nothing to eat there," he told me, "but the weeds they dig up in the fields for salade and the frogs they catch in the marshes. When the days are cold the frogs bury themselves so deep in the mud that they can't be caught. There is one old gentleman who told me today that he had existed for weeks en- tirely on a diet of turnips. They come to me and beg pitifully for a bite of something from the mess-kitchen, but I don't dare let them have it, as that would be, of course, strictly against regu- lations." I thought of those bushels of beans in the store-house. It was taking a chance of course, because after all it was government property and nothing else, but I told the Lieutenant that if he was willing to run the risk, I was; then I put it up to the Chief. This morning the Lieutenant came in with a flivver. We drove over to the store-house and loaded it up with army beans, issue coffee, sugar, rice, onions, potatoes and soap. Then we filled a special sack with canned soup, "gold fish," corn meal, canned tomatoes and corn syrup for the old gentleman who had lived on turnips. I felt he had a special claim on our sympathy. 250 CONFLANS We reached Pierrefond after a long drive in a stinging rain. It was a quaint pathetic village with a pretty little church whose tower had been sliced off as neatly as by a knife. Was it a German or a French shell which had done it, I wondered. We drew up in front of the Mayor's house. He came out to greet us, showed me a list of the seventy- three inhabitants of the town; men, women and infants in arms. All the supplies were to be duly weighed and measured and distributed, so much per capita. While they were unloading the flivver we stopped in at Madame C.'s for coffee and compliments, and to dry out by her hospitable fire. Everyone made pretty speeches, of course, and Madame bestowed on me a delectable bouquet of wall-flowers and daffodils. Poor things! It's little enough one can do for them. This will keep the wolf from the door for a short while perhaps, but after that, what then? Pierrefond, like Conflans, was occupied by the Germans for four years. Now there is a young half-German population grow- ing up, even as many as three to one family. The villagers accept the situation with tolerant humour; "Souvenirs Bodies," they call the children. As for the rest of the rations, I made jam sandwiches with the bread and bestowed them together with hot chocolate on a hungry leave train. What to do with the "Charlie Horse," as the boys call the canned roast beef, was a puzzle. Finally I made a paste of it mixed with bread crumbs, tomato soup, a few weenies and some ham scraps, pickles, parsley, onion and an egg, — we had six assistants in the kitchen and each added an ingredient, — put it between slices of bread and christened the result "Liberty Sand- wiches. Guaranteed to contain neither Gold Fish nor Corn Willy." The boys ate and wondered and came back for more. Conflans, March 30. In our back yard a detail of German prisoners is busy cleaning up; already they have made quite a transformation. Madame must have a garden. I wonder, as I watch them, what their state of mind may be; their phlegmatic faces give no hint. Did some of PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 251 these very ones, perhaps, make merry in this self same caf£, only six months ago, when they were conquerors? Madame tells me how, when the German officers were living here at the hotel, they ate off priceless old French plates, which, appar- ently quite ignorant of their value, they had carried off as loot. Madame, coveting these treasures, tried to arrange an exchange with the mess orderly, offering a number of modern dishes in return for one antique; but the mess orderly, fearing that some officer might notice the substitution, hesitated and before they could come to an agreement the precious plates, with the rough handling ac- corded them, had all been broken to bits. Some of the boys seem to think that the French don't give their prisoners enough to eat. The Germans, they say, when they get the chance, will wait outside the mess-hall door and seize eagerly the leavings in the mess-kits that the boys are about to throw away. " Maybe it's just because they're greedy," I say. " Surely they look fat enough!" And then a picture comes back to my mind, the picture of a Red Cross train seen while waiting at Pagny on my way to Paris last January, a train full of French prisoners who were being brought back from Germany, so weak from starvation that they lay on stretchers or sat pressing against the windows faces as wan and white as spectres. The German prisoners, according to the boys' repeated stories, are by no means a humble or repentant lot. They're not beaten for good, the prisoners invariably declare. Just as soon as the Americans have gone and things have calmed down a bit, they are coming back to France again, they say, and this time they will settle matters with the French for good and all! Last night a train load of German prisoners in box cars pulled into town. When the doors of the cars were opened it was found that one of the prisoners had died on the way. The dead man was wrapped in a blanket and left lying on the freight station platform. A "shine" from the labor battalion happened along in the dark, tripped and fell flat over the body. He came into the canteen in a state of nerves, quite prepared, evidently, to see a ghost in every corner. 252 CONFLANS Conflans, April 2, The latest member of our household is something quite new in the way of details. He is a Salvation Army man and a very nice fellow indeed. A year or so ago he was beating a big drum in front of GimbePs Store; then he was drafted to come to France with the pioneers; now he has applied for a discharge in order to join his organization over here; and while waiting for his release he is prov- ing himself an invaluable aid in the canteen. Now more than ever, since The Salvation Army, as everybody calls him, has joined our force, I have been longing to realize a dream which I have cherished ever since I came to France, — to make doughnuts for the A. E. F. I have the recipe, I can get the materials, the stove is the sticking- point. At present our cooking equipment consists of a hot water boiler and a wretched German range which is really fit for nothing but the scrap-heap. As the boys say, I have lost more religion than I ever thought I had over that stove! So while we hope and hunt for a doughnut-stove we are specializing in sandwiches and pud- dings. The puddings are my special pride as I worked out the ideas for them myself and, as far as I know, they are served in no other canteen. There are four of them; Coffee Jelly, Raspberry Jelly (made with the " pink-lemonade" fruit juice) Chocolate Bread Pudding, and Blackberry Bread Pudding. The bread-puddings are baked for us, by kindness of the cooks, at a nearby mess-kitchen. The only trouble with the puddings is, that there never is enough! But lest anyone should think that I take this as a compliment to my culinary skill, I must explain that the boys would eat anything you offered them, I believe, just as long as it was sweet and was a change. And then there is perhaps a quaint psychological factor too. "A man don't like to eat food that's cooked by a man," a lad confided to me the other day. "Anything that's cooked by a woman tastes better." So if a boy does leave any scraps of pudding on his plate it bothers me unreasonably. " Somebody didn't like his pudding," I remark mournfully to the S. A. as I pick up the dishes. This amuses him. Last night PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 253 as we were clearing up before we closed he marched up to the counter, deposited a tiny wad found on one of the tables in front of me. " Somebody," he declared in a tragic tone, "didn't like his chew- ing-gum!" Nor can I boast, as a cook, of a record of unvarying success. On more than one occasion I must admit to having scorched the cocoa, and once, not many days ago — to my shame be it said! — I ruined a ten gallon can by putting in salt instead of sugar! Here at Conrlans we have an unusual amount of competition in the light lunch line. The other day a French fried potato booth, like a hot-dog booth at a country fair at home, established itself on the terrace just outside our door. Now a hungry doughboy can take the edge off his appetite with a paper full of hot French fries in return for a franc at any hour of the day. Also in the street below the terrace are many little stands where oranges and sandwiches made of rolls and slices of sausage are on sale. The rivalry between these stands, it appears, is acute. Yes- terday, hearing a hubbub, I looked out to see a comic battle in progress, the proprietors of two neighboring stands, a fat frowsy old woman and a little ragged man like a weasel, pelting each other for all they were worth with rotten oranges while half the A. E. F., it seemed, stood around and cheered. Nor did matters settle down to calm until a gendarme and intervention appeared on the scene. This morning I stopped in at the little French store around the corner to buy half a dozen eggs to make a custard sauce for my chocolate bread pudding. When the man gave me my change I noticed he had overcharged me by twenty-five centimes. "Why's that?" I asked. "That," returned the shop-keeper, "is because you picked them out by hand." Some canteen ladies can cook and wait on the counter and open milk-cans and wash the chocolate cups and yet keep spotlessly and specklessly clean. But I have come to the conclusion that as long as I live in Conflans, with its air full of smoke and soot from the 254 CONFLANS train yards, and its water so hard that it curdles the soap, — and sometimes the milk in the cocoa too, that I will have to content myself with being godly and leave the cleanliness till a happier day. We have been having a regular plague of inspectors and investi- gators of late. Last night just as I had my final bout with the last chocolate container, a major and a lieutenant colonel wandered in, evidently in search of scandal. The lieutenant colonel fixed a piercing eye on me. "So you are the only 'white woman' in this part of the world at present? " "Well," I said looking at my fingers smudged with cocoa, "to- night I should say that I was a pale chocolate-colored woman." "I noticed that your face was dirty," coolly returned the gentle- man. I hurriedly excused myself in order to consult a looking- glass. Sure enough, there on my nose was a large smudge of soot! I must have got it the last time I stoked the chocolate-stove. Conflans, April 7. The M. P.s live in the hotel next door. Naturally we see a good deal of them. I try to treat them extra nicely because I feel sorry for them. They can't help being M. P.s any more than they can help being unpopular. And though many of them go about with a chip on their shoulders and an attitude of I-don't- give-a-tinker's-damn, still to know that you are anathema to the major portion of the A. E. F., to be publicly referred to as Misery Providers, Mademoiselle Promenades, and Military Pests, besides being made the subject of songs such as; Mother take down your service flag, Your son is only an M. P., must be galling to the most insensitive. Just as soon as the armistice was signed the doughboys started in to pester the M. P.s with the classic taunt: "Who won the war?— The M. P.s!" For a long while the M. P.s could think of no more crushing rejoinder than the time-honored; "Aw, go to hell!" PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 255 But lately some bright soul has hit upon a bit of repartee that goes far to salve the M. P.s' self-respect. Now if a soldier is so rash as to jeer; "Who won the war? The M. P.s!" the response comes instantly: " Yep ! They chased the doughboys up front!" There are two M. P.s from the detachment next door who have lately joined themselves to our family. Like Slim, they came unsolicited, and like Slim, they stick. They are known respect- ively as the Littlest M. P. and the Fattest M. P. The Littlest M. P. is a pest. I feel sorry for him because he is so young and has no mother; otherwise there would be no tolerat- ing him. He hangs about the canteen from morning until late at night under pretence of assisting us, and eats and eats and eats and eats. The other day I heard him proudly averring that he hadn't taken a meal in the mess-hall for two weeks, and I believed him. Yet when you ask him to do any particular piece of work, like filling up the wood box or fetching a pail of water, in return for his board, he always has some perfectly good reason for not doing it. Besides which, he has no morals. The other day he confided to me triumphantly that the reason that they didn't put him on guard work was that they knew he would take money to let men into caf£s at prohibited hours. He went on to tell me about the town of S. "That was a good place, you could get twenty-five francs for lettin' a feller into a cafe* out of hours there.'* I have tried to find out what he does in return for Uncle Sam's dollar a day and have discovered that his job is sweeping out the halls in the M. P. Hotel. "But I skip about twenty feet at each end every time, so it don't take me more'n ten minutes." Yesterday morning he came in with an air of righteousness rewarded. "I told 'em I'd got to have help on that job," he announced, "so they put another feller on too." This morning I got so exasperated with him that I told him 256 CONFLANS in unmistakable terms that we could dispense with his company. He disappeared, and I congratulated myself that we were rid of him. But at supper-time he bobbed serenely up again. "Some fellers would have got sore if you'd spoke like that to them," he told me with a magnanimous air, "but I just took it as a joke." Now what is one to do with anybody like that? The Fattest M. P. is the most unleavened lump of good-nature I have ever known. He is, I understand, a notorious poker-player and his breath, to my embarrassment, betrays the fact that he has a weakness for Conflans beer. Besides which, he really takes up quite too much room behind the counter. Yet in spite of all this, he is such a simple soul and is. so anxious to help that one hasn't the heart to send him away. Yesterday I thought I was going to be arrested by an M. P. I had gone over to Verdun in an army flivver to get some stock. Turning the corner into Conflans on our way home we were halted by the upraised billy of the M. P. on duty. "Sorry, Buddy!" he called to the driver, "but you can't do that!" Then, approaching, he got a closer view, turned red as fire and stammered; "Beg your pardon, Miss. Made a mistake. That's all right, driver, you can go on." Later he sent apologies to me at the canteen. It is, of course, against regulations to allow civilian women to use army trans- portation. The M. P., catching sight of a skirt, had taken me for a Mademoiselle on a joy-ride. Conflans April 7. We must start an Orphans' Annex here, the boys tell me. Three nights ago as it was drawing on toward closing time the Chief called me into the office. By the table stood two young boys, about fourteen and sixteen I judged them; each carried on his shoulder a little sack which evidently contained all his worldly possessions. They were German boys from Metz; they PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 257 had just come in on the train. Why had they come? we asked them. They had come to join the American army. But they were too young! He was eighteen, declared the elder. He dug into his pockets and produced documents. I looked at two of the papers, they appeared to be the birth certificates of his father and mother. Had his parents given their consent? He nodded. "And you really are eighteen?" "Ja! J a wohll" It was hard to believe, — he was so small. We stared at them a bit helplessly. Then, finding our German not quite adequate to the occasion, we called an interpreter. But to all the interpreter's questioning the boy returned the same unvarying answer. He had come to join the American army! As for the younger one, he merely stood and smiled and looked as guileless as a young angel. Whatever the elder one's intention might be, I was sure I could divine the younger's. He, I am certain, had set his heart on being an Amer- ican "mascot." And he, for all his innocent and engaging air, had most patently run away from home! We told the boys that we would put them up for the night. I busied myself in getting them some supper and then — another waif appeared! A little French lad of thirteen, with a peg-leg and a crutch, he came shyly hobbling into the office, and the face he lifted to us was one of the sweetest, the most sensitive and appealing that I have ever seen. Silently he tendered us a letter. It had been written by an American lieutenant; the bearer, it stated, was an orphan of the war; he had been shot by German machine-gunners near Verdun; his right leg had been amputated at the thigh. I looked at the crippled child in appre- hension. How would he take the presence of the Germans? But my question was already answered. The little German lad and the French mutile had drawn close together, seemingly drawn instantly to each other by a bond of childish understanding. Although neither could speak the other's speech they appeared to be communicating in some shy wordless way. Later, as we were getting the cots ready for the lodgers, passing the empty canteen room, I glanced inside. Somebody had started the vie- 258 CONFLANS trola on the counter to playing a waltz, and to its music the German boys were dancing while the little French lad gaily kept time with his crutch! We fed the three of them and put them up for the night. The next morning the French lad took his leave. Later he came back to see us dressed in a little American uniform; he had been adopted by one of the companies here. The German lads stayed with us, or rather, they slept and ate with the M. P.s next door and spent the rest of the day with us in the canteen. They loved to help about the counter; they were quick and deft and willing. The only trouble with the arrangement was that I fairly went distracted trying to talk three languages at once ! Two days afterwards, the M. P.s having taken the matter in hand, the German boys were sent back to Metz. But the French lad comes in often to visit us. We see him playing ball with the soldiers in the street in front of the hotel. This morning the S. A. and I stood watching him. "I wouldn't mind it so much somehow," the S. A. remarked, "if he didn't have that wrap-legging wound so tight around that pitiful little peg-stick!" The tenderness toward little children which the war has shown forth so vividly has been a revelation of an inherent sweetness in the boys' natures; this fondness for children other than their own, being, I believe a distinctive characteristic of our American men. Any number of companies have mascots, little French boys, orphans usually, whom they dress in miniature uniforms, take about from place to place with them, and, of course, spoil quite shamelessly. And in every unit that possesses a mascot you find boys whose dearest wish is to adopt the little fellow as his own and take him back home; but this the French law forbids. "That's the best part of France, the little kids," remarked a boy to me as we passed a group of little tots by the road-side. Unfortunately though, this petting has another side. Spoiled by the soft-hearted soldiers, the French gamins have developed into a brood of brazen little beggars. They have come to regard PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 259 all Americans, it seems, as perambulating slot machines for "goom" and chocolate with whom, however, the purchasing penny is quite superfluous. I shall never forget being held up, as I was walking with a doughboy through the streets of Lourdes, by a tiny lad who demanded pathetically; " Une cigarette pour tnoi, et une pour Papa y et une pour Maman qui est maladeV Nor the fifteen year old conductor on a suburban tram line near Paris, who took up our tickets with a forbidding scowl, and then, his rounds made, hurried back down the car to confront us with the wistful childish plea: "'Ave you goom?" For some while there has been a red-headed urchin of perhaps thirteen years hanging about the hut. As he was dressed jn an O. D. blouse, breeches and leggings, I concluded that he was somebody's mascot. He kept coming into the canteen to buy gum and cigarettes; presently I discovered he was purchaser for a little gang of ragamuffins who would wait for him just outside the door. I asked the boys in the canteen if they knew anything about the red-head, but no one seemed to know who he was or to what outfit he belonged. The boy himself seemed stupid and sullen when I questioned him. Finally I told him that I could sell him nothing more. Tonight my friend the M. P. Sergeant asked casually; "Do you remember that red-headed kid that used to hang around? Well we've got him and eight others." "Why, what for?" "They're Propaganda Kids. They came over here from Ger- many; they've been stealing American uniforms and smuggling them to the German prisoners so they could escape in them." CONFLANS, ArRIL 1 5. Of all the roads over which I have ever passed, the road from Conflans to Verdun will remain, I think, most sharply etched upon my memory. Leaving Conflans, as one passes through the occupied territory, the predominant impression made upon one's mind is of signs. 2 6o CONFLANS German military signs. These are everywhere, painted in great staring letters on the sides of buildings, covering bill-boards set at the road's edge, or hung suspended from the branches of trees over the truck drivers' heads. Here in this German sector behind the lines every movement was timed, ordered and regulated. No one could possibly go astray, no one could lose a moment in hesitation as to where he should go, in what manner and at what rate. Half- way between Conflans and the lines you come upon two great bill- boards at the highway's edge, one duplicating the other, in order that, marching past, what might have been missed on the first board, could be supplied by the second. They are headed "Under Enemy Observation!" and give in strict detail the order of pro- cedure from that point forward, both by day and night, just what strength the marching groups should be and how many metres should intervene between them. The German thorough- ness, the German system! Everything has been thought of, every- thing provided for, everything possible done to reduce the indi- vidual to an automaton, a mere senseless cog in a vast machine. And yet among all these signs there is one that lacks, a sign that is notable by its absence; it is the sign that should read Nach Verdun. Once across the lines on the French side you are struck by the startling difference; here the only signs that one sees are two, poignant in their simplicity and directness. They are Poste de Secours and Blesses a Pied. Every time I approach Verdun by this road I thrill when I think of the enormous energy that poured along it, directed, it must have seemed, irresistibly, over - poweringly against the city in the hills; a thrill only surpassed by the emotion that one must feel when he traverses the Sacra Via on the other side of Verdun, the "Holy Way" over which men and munitions flowed incessantly to the defense of the beleaguered city. Everywhere one sees the ineffaceable scars of struggle^ the aftermath of destruction. The stately trees bordering the road- side, the trees that Napoleon ordered planted along the highways of France, are barked with great ugly gashes where mines had PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 261 been placed, the exploding of which would have felled the great trees across the road, blocking the pursuer's way. Others bear platforms high up in the branches where machine-guns were placed. Rotting camouflages of every sort, paper strips woven like lattice, curtains of branches woven through wire which once screened the road for miles from the enemy's observation, now lie disintegrating in the ditches. Shell holes pit the fields, concrete " pill-boxes" lurk in unsuspected places, every mound is shelter for a dug-out, walls are riddled with ragged holes cut for machine- guns. Further on, one comes to the trenches zigzagging in what seems erratic and aimless patterns and the interminable barbed- wire entanglements, like the devil's brier patches. Half across the open plain that lies before the hills of Verdun you come upon a German tank defence, a long line of heavy concrete pillars with enormous cables, once highly electrified, looped between. A little farther and the road crosses an impromptu bridge thrown hastily over the great gaping crater torn by an exploding mine. And always here and there over the plain, little heaps of glimmering whitish stones which mark the places where once were villages. Starting to ascend the hills, one looks down upon a ghost city, a city where many of the walls still stand, making you think of nothing but a huddled host of tombstones, a city chalk-white, naked, as if the flesh were all picked away from its dead bones; the most haunted, the most wraith-like, the most desolate of any. Climbing the hills, sweeping around one slow curve after another, one beholds suddenly before him, a lesser hill ringed by higher ones, Verdun, scarred, wounded, but victorious, like the Winged Victory of Samothrace, mutilated yet triumphant! When I first made the trip from Verdun to Conflans there were still good pickings for the souvenir-hunter by the way; shell-cases, helmets, gas masks lying along the roadside; but lately it has looked as if these trophies had been thoroughly gleaned. Nor does one wonder where they have gone when one sees the flivvers piled high with homeward bound souvenirs pulling in at the post office around the corner. But will they reach home, is the question? 262 CONFLANS Ominous rumours are abroad that salvage plants have been estab- lished at the base ports for the particular purpose of confiscating shell-cases on their way to America, and thereby saving the Allies a fortune in brass. Some of the boys are inclined to try to carry their trophies with them rather than entrust them to Uncle Sam's mail service, but this entails some trouble to prevent their seizure dur- ing inspections. Nowadays, passing by, one can tell when an in- spection is in progress within, by all the junk which is hanging out of the barracks windows! Homeward-bound troops have already discovered a use for gas masks not mentioned in the Drill Manual: the cases provide an excellent receptacle in which surreptitiously one may carry photographs and post-cards! When I first came to Conflans, camouflaged German helmets were a prize so rare as to be much sought after by the souvenir enthusiast; but now cam- ouflaged helmets may be had for the asking; an enterprising bugler possessed of a knack with a paint-brush has gone into the business of camouflaging them while you wait. Yesterday, after having returned from Verdun, I noticed a post- card in a Jarny shop. It showed a black cat and a white cat sil- houetted against the moon, perched on the skeleton beams of a half-demolished house, peering disconsolately about them. Under- neath the sentence ran; Oil est-il le toil de nos amours? Where is the roof of our love? Could any nation but the French thus make light of such tragedy? Paris, April 21. I am on my way home at last. I am waiting here for my sailing. This time I am really going all the way through. Now that I am on the brink of the retour au civil, as the French say, it seems very odd. For eighteen months I haven't worn white gloves, or silk stockings, or a veil, no, nor even powdered my nose. And the worst of it is, these things don't seem to matter any more. Even a uniform, and a homely uniform at that, has tremendous advan- tages as part of a working scheme of life. As one girl remarked; "You don't have to spend any time thinking: Shall I put on the PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 263 pink or the blue tonight? The only question is, Do I or do I not need a clean collar? " Somehow I feel a little unfitted to go back to a civilian existence once more. The same feeling one finds expressed continually among the boys. "When I get back home, if I see a line anywhere I'll go and stand in it just from force of habit," remarked one boy, grinning ruefully. But most often this feeling takes the form of a pathetic and wistful fear. "I'm afraid I'll shock Mother when I get home." "They won't know what to make of us, back home, the way we'll behave." "I reckon I've forgotten how to act civilized." And over and again they confess to a shame-faced apprehension lest they should unguardedly relapse into the language of the army and so frighten their women folk! A famous French surgeon confided to my friend, the English Lady: "In that first year of the war when we were allowed no permis- sions we became like savages. The first time that I returned home I was afraid. I was afraid all the while, afraid before my wife, be- fore my children, — afraid that I would act the beast." If by coming to France, we women who have had this privilege have discovered the American doughboy, the American doughboy, by coming to France, has discovered America. I don't know who first said; "After I get back, if the Statue of Liberty ever wants to see my face again, she'll have to turn around," but whoever did, uttered a sentiment which has been echoed and re-echoed all over France. The doughboy has been to Paris, "the City of Light," he has amused himself in the playgrounds of princes along the Riviera, he has visited the chateaux and palaces of kings and queens. And though he admits it is all mighty fine, in the face of everything he holds staunchly to his declaration of loyalty; "I'll tell the world the little old U. S. A. is good enough for me!" At times perhaps his patriotic enthusiasm has outweighed his 264 CONFLANS manners. Again and again a French villager, evidently echoing some doughboy's dissertation, has asked me a little wistfully; "America bon, goode! France pas boil, no goode! Hein?" "Anyway the war has done one good thing," I used to say to the lads in the canteens," it has taught you to appreciate your homes." "I used to want to get away from home," confided one boy to me, "but when I get back there again I'm just going to tie myself so tight to Mother's apron-strings that she'll never get the knot undone." "Say, when I get back," declared another lad as he helped me wipe the dishes, "my mother's going to find I'm just the best little K. P. she ever knew." "When I get home, I'm going to lock myself in the house and then I'm going to lose the key and stay right there for a month," announced another. "Who's in your house? " "Just Mother. She's good enough for me." Sometimes I have thought that three things have stood as con- crete symbols of all that was desirable to the American boy through his ordeal over here: a dollar-bill, the Statue of Liberty, his mother's face. And only a shade less touching than the dough- boy's realization of all that is implied by "Mother;" is his attitude of chivalrous idealism toward the American girl. Once I ventured to say something in praise of the women of France. "But they're not as fine as our girls!" came the instant jealous rejoinder. "No Mademoiselles jranqaises for me, thank you. I've got a little girl of my own back home!" "Our American girls, they're as different from these French girls," declared a tall Virginian, "as day is from night!" "I've laid off of lovin' while I've been over here," confided one little engineer, "but, oh boy! my girl's goin' to get an awful huggin' when I get home! " The most pitiful and hopeless cases that I have seen over here were boys who had taken to drink because their girls at home had PIONEERS, M.P.S AND OTHERS 265 proved inconstant. "That man never touched a drop," confided the buddy of one of these to me," until he got that letter from his girl telling him that she was married to a slacker." Not that the doughboy's conduct has always been above re- proach. "Single men in barracks," as Kipling once remarked, "don't grow into plaster saints;" and he has been sorely tempted. But in his heart he has kept an ideal. It has stood between him and utter darkness. In this ideal he has put all his faith. If he loses it, he loses everything. Those women back home, I wonder, do they really understand? THE TURN OF THE TIDE Fully illustrated with original maps and sketches \ By Lieut-Col. JENNINGS C. WISE, author of " The Long Arm of Lee," " Gunnery," " Empire and Armament,".etc, etg. $2.00 To what extent were the great German reverses of the summer of 1918 due to American military prowess? What were Cantigny and Chateau-Thierry from the military standpoint? And how much help did Foch get from the Americans at the Second Marne? Such are the questions to answer which Colonel Wise has written the " Turn of the Tide." Fresh from France and the Historical Section of the General Staff at Chaumont, Colonel Wise is the first writer to return to this country fully equipped to discuss with authority our share in the war. from the point of view of a battalion commander who saw much action and as an Army Historian. FIRST REFLECTIONS ON THE CAMPAIGN OF 1918 By R. M. JOHNSTON, author of " The French Revolution," "Leading American Soldiers," " Napoleon," etc, $1.50. In undertaking to offer constructive criticism of our combat army in France, Major Johnston does not speak without authority. He was attached to the General Staff at Pershing's Headquarters for twelve months or more. During this period he made a number of intimate visits to the active fronts, and was also special envoy to Paris and London on one occasion. Thus he was able to get a perspective on the activities of our war machine without being detached from it and without a sacrifice of the detailed knowledge which comes from per- sonal contact. He sees the war whole and retains an unusual breadth of point of view. " SIMSADUS-LONDON " AT U. S. NAVAL HEADQUARTERS ABROAD By J. L. LEIGHTON. With numerous illustrations from actual photo- graphs, and picture jacket. $4.00. The facts and information offered in this book have a most opportune interest as they throw light on the Naval affairs now receiving so much public and official attention. The author's close personal contact with conditions at the various Naval bases, his relations with the staff in London and his active service on the ships of which he writes, vouch for the authenticity of his work. ARMY MENTAL TESTS By CLARENCE S. YOAKUM and ROBERT M, YERKES, of the National Research Council. Illustrated. $i-SO. Authorized by the War Department, this book provides for business men an account of a great achievement in scientific management whereby the United States, employing suddenly four million soldiers, found the right men for the right places. HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY 19 W. 44 St. (II 'ao) NEW YORK FIRECRACKER JANE By Alice Calhoun Haines, author of " The Luck of the Dudley Grahams," " Cock-a-doodle Hill," "Partners for Fair." $1.50 Firecracker Jane is the motherless, lovable, red-haired daughter of an American cavalry officer, and has grown up with her father and " S. O. S.," a younger officer, for her " pals." Stung by what she thinks is her father's indifference, she elopes with Riccardo, her Mexican cousin, and is plunged into the midst of the Mexican chaos of three years ago. Follows then a series of adventures which culminate in her capture by Valdes, the Lion of the North, a brutal revolution- ary leader. Her escape, and the manner in which the love tangle is unraveled after war with Germany began, provide a happy ending. The New York Evening Sun: "Lives up to its title, much strenu- ous adventure." San Francisco Bulletin: "Thrilling . . . calculated to stir the blood of the most jaded fiction reader." THE CHINESE PUZZLE By Marion Bower and Leon M. Lion. The characters, vitally drawn, are gathered at a great English country house, and include, in the group of brilliant worldlings, a Chinese Ambassador, wise, loyal, and finally — ? There is a secret treaty, crime, intrigue and sparkling talk. $1.60. New York Times: " That all too rare literary product, an absorb- ing mystery tale." THE HAPPY YEARS By Inez Haynes Irwin. The third of the " Phoebe and Ernest" Series. $1.60. The author's response to the request that she tell what happened to Phoebe and Ernest when they grew up. We here see each of them married, with children of their own, and with delightful friends, and perhaps the happiest of all are grandfather and grandmother Martin. The life of them all is rich with responsibility, friendship, love, sorrow and happi- ness. New York Evening Post: " Has as much humor, truth, and appeal- ing warmth as any of its predecessors." Boston Evening Transcript: "What marks Mrs. Irwin's work is her ability to catch the mood of the average American." HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY PUBLISHERS (vi '19) NEW YORK THE LIGHT HEART By Maurice Hewlett. $2.00. Hewlett has never done anything more brilliant than this northern story of adventure in which the epic starkness of the plot, drawn from the Iceland sagas, is softened by the humanity of a gentler day. The result is a surprising com- bination of thrilling narrative and delicate characterization, seldom to be matched in literature. THE BLACK KNIGHT By Mrs. Alfred Sidgwick and Crosbie Garstin. $2.00. A young Englishman is involved in the financial ruin and disgrace of his father, and emigrates to Western Canada. At first a penniless laborer, he eventually makes a fortune, after many humorous adventures strongly reminiscent of Owen Wister's " Virginian." Finally he returns to Paris, where he finds the girl of his choice in the clutches of schem- ing relatives, and then . A fascinating up-to-date romance. TRUE LOVE By Allan Monkhouse, Literary Editor of the Manchester Guardian. $1.75. This novel deals with the spiritual struggles of a young playwright, torn between his love for a woman and his love of country at one of the great moments of the world's history. No more gallant struggle was ever made, and Monkhouse's handling of it is worthy of a high place in contemporary fiction. The picture given of the dramatic and literary life in Manchester is of particular interest. CAPE CURREY By Rene Juta. $1.75. This remarkable historical novel, which is also a first novel, tells one of the strangest stories which has seen the light, even in these wonder-loving days. Many of the characters have descendants playing their parts now on the British imperial stage.^ But the strange figure of Dr. James Barry has only old wives' tales and this novel for memorial. The mysterious garden is likewise no fiction, Sir Charles Somerset being credited with the foundation of the first of its kind in the Cape Province. HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY 19 W. 44TH St. (iii '20) NEW YORK Deacidified using the Bookkeeper proces Neutralizing agent: Magnesium Oxide Treatment Date: 2001 PreservationTechnologie A WORLD LEADER IN PAPER PRESERVATIO 111 Thomson Park Drive Cranberry Township, PA 1 6066 (724)779-2111 in LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 007 690 812 6