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MISS ANNA FALLS. 
 
 A picture of Perfect Health ami Beauty that extends "clean 
 through. " Her height is 5 ft. 2'j in., weight, 120 lbs., aned id 
 years neck. 12\- in., chest normal. 30*2 in., expanded, 
 33H in., bust 3°. in., waist. 23V4 in-- hips. ?,7 in., ankle, s 1 4 in. 
 
THE 
 
 BEAUTY 
 BOOK 
 
 OF 
 
 ROXANA RION 
 
 ; Beauty is more than skin-deep; / 
 
 I True beauty extends CLEAN THROUGH. 
 
 —Roxana Rion. 
 
 L. N. FOWLER & CO., 
 
 7. Inapt-rial Arcade. Luderat* Circus 
 
 London. E. C. 
 
 Published September 9. 1913. by 
 
 THE ELIZABETH TOWNE COMPANY. 
 
 HOLYOKE. MASS. 
 
RATI"? 
 J? 5 
 
 Copyrighted, September 28, 1913 
 
 By 
 
 ELIZABETH TOWNE 
 
 ©CLA354660 
 
 4tc/ 
 
Contents. 
 
 Chapter I. FOREWORD.— Beauty a Duty and a Pleasure. The 
 "Why" and the " How." Beauty Building. Digging the Founda- 
 tions. Beautiful " All the Way Through." 7 
 
 Chapter II. THE ROOT OF PHYSICAL EVIL.— Constipation. 
 Results of Constipation. The Nature of Constipation. The Colon. 
 The Impacted Colon. The Defective Drainpipe. Startling Facts. 
 Poisoning the System 12 
 
 Chapter III. THE UPROOTING PROCESS.— Cathartic Drugs and 
 Purgative Drugs Useless. The Pill Habit. How to Flush the Colon. 
 The Drugless Cure of Constipation 19 
 
 Chapter IV. BEAUTY AND INTERNAL CLEANLINESS.— Internal 
 Purity. The Normal Quantity of Fluids. Rules for Water Drinking. 
 Hot Water Drinking. The Water Cure of Constipation 25 
 
 Chapter V. EXTERNAL CLEANLINESS.— The Bath. The Nature 
 of the Skin. The Two Skins. Perspiration. Poisonous Waste Matter. 
 Keeping the Pores Clean. Oils of the Skin. Value of the Bath. The 
 Bath and Beauty 32 
 
 Chapter VI. THE SCIENCE OF THE BATH.— Wilson's Rules of the 
 Bath 39 
 
 Chapter VII. FOOD AND BEAUTY.— The Mixed Dietary. Gen- 
 eral Health and Beauty. The Question of Meats. Vegetables. Fruits. 
 Laxative Foods. Sweet Things. Bread and Pastry. Tea and 
 Coffee. Alcoholic Drinks. The Two Great Evils. Mastication. 
 Overeating 46 
 
 Chapter VIII. EXERCISE AND BEAUTY.— Rational Exercise. 
 Artificial Exercise. Mental Interest in Exercise. Evolution and Ex- 
 ercise. The Ideal System. Fresh Air and Exercise. The Vital Trio. 
 Dancing. Delsarte Exercises. General Directions 53 
 
 Chapter IX. BREATHING AND BEAUTY.— Close Relation between 
 Breathing, General Health, and Beauty. The Breathing Apparatus. 
 Breathing and Pure Blood. Nasal vs. Mouth Breathing. The Three 
 Kinds of Breathing. Clavicular Breathing. Intercostal Breathing. 
 Abdominal Breathing. Full Breathing. How to Breathe. Breathing 
 in Exercising. Breathing Exercises. A Good Suggestion 63 
 
 Chapter X. REST AND SLEEP.— Hours of Sleep. Rules of Sleeping. 
 Sleep Like a Child. Mental Relaxation. Physical Relaxation. Rules 
 for Relaxation. Relaxation in Bed. The Art and Science of " Letting 
 Go" 70 
 
 Chapter XI. ANTI-FAT AND ANTI-LEAN.— Above or Below the 
 Normal Standard. Superfluous Fat. Anti-Fat Systems. The Bant- 
 ing System. Ebstein's Method. Oertel's Method. The Schweninger 
 System. The Cathell System. Fantastic Remedies. Difficulties of 
 the Systems. Excessive Thinness. How to " Take on Flesh." The 
 " Dried Apple " State. Diet for Over-Thinness 78 
 
 Chapter XII. COMMON-SENSE METHOD OF FAT-REDUCTION.— 
 General Observations Regarding Fat-Reduction. A Clean Colon. 
 Water Drinking. The Bath. Exercise. Breathing. Food and Diet. 
 Articles of Food Allowed. Articles of Food Prohibited. Directions 
 for the Vichy-Kissingen Treatment. Results of the Cathell Treat- 
 ment. Notes regarding Kissingen and Vichy 87 
 
Chapter XIII. FLESH-REDUCING EXERCISES.— An Effective, 
 Condensed, Practical System of Fat-Reducing Calisthenics. Reducing 
 the Abdomen. Ten Effective Abdominal Exercises. Hip and 
 Thigh Reducing Exercises. Hip Exercises. Extra Suggestions. High- 
 Kicking Exercise. Massage. Rolling Exercise. Reducing Double 
 Chin. Caution 98 
 
 Chapter XIV. FLESH-DEVELOPING EXERCISES.— Exercise that 
 Works Both Ways. Developing Hips and Thighs. General Calf De- 
 velopment. Calf Development Exercises. Notes. Neck Development. 
 Neck Development Exercises. Arm Development. Forearm Develop- 
 ment Exercise. Upper-arm Development Exercises I to V. Wrist De- 
 velopment Exercise. Caution 109 
 
 Chapter XV. BUST DEVELOPMENT.— Building up the Bust. 
 Preliminary Suggestions. Local Methods of Bust Development. 
 Flabby Breast Treatment. Firming the Breasts. Simple Hints in 
 Bust Development. General Exercises in Bust Development. Bust 
 Development Exercises I, II, III, and IV. The " Setting-Up " Drill. 
 Walking, Sitting, Standing 118 
 
 Chapter XVI. THE SKIN.— Skin Health. Chapped Skin Chafed 
 Skin. Sunburn, Freckles, and Tan. How to Cure Sunburn. How 
 to Cure Tan and Freckles. Liver Spots or Moth Patches. Warts and 
 Moles. Ringworm. Blackheads: How to Remove Them. White- 
 heads: How to Cure Them. Dry Skin. Greasy Skin. Red Nose. 
 Pimples. Local Treatment for Pimples. Removing the Pus. Eczema. 
 Cold Sores and Fever Blisters 125 
 
 Chapter XVII. THE FACE, NECK, AND HANDS— Caring for the 
 Face. Washing the Face. Cold Cream Treatment. Choice of Soaps. 
 Choice of Face Powders. Face Creams. Antiseptics. Face-Steaming. 
 Facial Massage. Directions for Facial Massage. Preliminary Sug- 
 gestions. Cheek Massage. Forehead and Temple Massage. Chin 
 Massage. Under-Eye Massage. Ear Massage. Mouth Massage. 
 Nose Massage. Neck Massage. Wrinkles. The Neck. The Hands. 
 Hand Massage. Manicuring 135 
 
 Chapter XVIII. THE HAIR AND ITS CARE.— General Health and 
 the Hair. The Comb. The Brush. Combing the Hair. Brushing 
 the Hair. Airing the Hair. Scalp Massage. " Weeding-out " the 
 Hair. Washing the Hair and Scalp. The Shampoo. How to Sham- 
 poo. Dry Shampoo. The Hair at Night. Hair Tonics 146 
 
 Chapter XIX. HAIR TROUBLES.— Falling-out of the Hair. How 
 Hair Becomes Thin. The Cause of Thinning Hair. Dandruff. How 
 to Cure Dandruff. Baldness. Hair-Splitting. Hair Lice. Premature 
 Grayness. Superfluous Hair. Coloring the Hair. A Sane System of 
 Instruction on the Cure of Troubles of the Hair 156 
 
 Chapter XX. THE EYES, TEETH, AND FEET.— The Eyes and their 
 Care. The Eye-Cup. Eye-Washes. Eye Massage. Cinders. Eye- 
 brows and Eyelashes. Scanty Eyebrows and Eyelashes. Curling 
 Eyelashes. The Teeth and their Care. Brushing the Teeth. Bad 
 Breath: Its Cause and Cure. The Dentist. The Feet and their Care. 
 Foot-baths. S'nces and Stockings, Toenails, Corns, and Bunions. 
 Excessive Perspiration of the Feet. The Chiropodist 165 
 
 Chapter XXI. THOUGHT AND BEAUTY.— Mind and Body. Emo- 
 tion and Appearance. Mental Pictures. Thought and Beauty: 
 their Connection. Self-Treatment by Mind-Power. Full Directions 
 for Treatment of Important Complaints. Controlling the Emotions. 
 A Secret of the Orient. Another Little Secret. Making Your Ideals 
 Become Real. The Law of Compensation 173 
 
To 
 
 ELIZABETH TOWNE, 
 
 Whose Writings have been an Inspiration to Thou- 
 sands of Men and Women Climbing the 
 Ladder of Attainment, This Little 
 Book is Lovingly Dedicated 
 
 By ITS AUTHOR 
 
 
chapter i. 
 Foreword. 
 
 gj»T is the duty of every woman to be- 
 come and remain as beautiful as pos- 
 sible. It is also one of the greatest 
 of woman's pleasures to be and re- 
 main beautiful. This co-ordination 
 of pleasure and duty is instinctive in 
 the nature of woman, from the very 
 nature of her being, and arises from 
 impulses traveling over the path of 
 ; ;J centuries of evolution, gaining force 
 SUSsmS with each century of its travel. It is 
 
 as natural for a woman to desire to be beautiful as it 
 is for her to love and to wish to be loved. In fact, the 
 desire springs from the same root as the love instinct 
 and may be considered as a part thereof. No woman 
 requires any argument to convince her of the value 
 and desirability of beauty and physical perfection. 
 She instinctively recognizes this fact and takes it as a 
 matter of course. Her only concern is that regarding 
 the ways and means, the methods and systems, best 
 adapted to transmute her desires into accomplished 
 facts, her ideals into realities. 
 
 Lack of Popular Instruction. This universal desire on 
 7 
 
the part of woman to gain and preserve physical beauty- 
 has caused many to devote their best thought to the 
 subject, and there has developed a well-tested set of 
 rules calculated to point out the way to the inquiring 
 woman. But, alas, many of the best authorities on the 
 subject have written only for their professional brethren 
 in ponderous text-books, and in technical terms, so that 
 their work is not available to the average woman. And, 
 equally regrettable, the growing and insistent demand 
 for authoritative teaching on this subject has caused a 
 host of inexperienced, unqualified writers to flood the 
 market with books, booklets, newspaper and magazine 
 articles, on the subject of womanly beauty, the result 
 being that the inquiring woman is puzzled and per- 
 plexed in her efforts to reconcile the glaring discrepan- 
 cies in these writings, and to put into practice the vague, 
 contradictory advice and instructions so glibly given 
 with so little basic merit. Moreover, the field has been 
 invaded by the "cranks," those earnest fanatics with 
 their many fanciful theories and fantastic practices which 
 have caused disgust and disillusionment to so many 
 women. And, worst of all, the "quack" has taken ad- 
 vantage of this splendid opportunity to gather a golden 
 harvest from anxious women who have been deluded by 
 glowing advertisements and seductive promises, and 
 who often have invested goodly sums of money 
 in worse then worthless nostrums and absurd para- 
 phernalia. 
 
 The Leaven of Truth. But, fortunately, there has 
 8 
 
remained enough of the yeast of truth to leaven the 
 mass, and there has arisen a constantly growing body of 
 competent teaching on the subject, open to those who 
 know where to look, and who are competent to dis- 
 tinguish truth from error, and to separate the wheat 
 from the chaff. It is for the purpose of saving the aver- 
 age woman this perplexing search, and to furnish her 
 with the gist of the best information on this subject, 
 that this little book is written. Its writer feels that she 
 has had the experience qualifying her for the task, the 
 information to impart, the discernment and judgment 
 to separate the "worth while" from the worthless, and 
 the ability to condense into the space of a few pages 
 that which ordinarily might be expanded in a set of 
 several large volumes. 
 
 The "Why" and the "How." To begin with, the 
 writer wishes to be clearly understood that she is 
 presenting no new, startling, or "patent" system of 
 beauty-culture, which will revolutionize the subject. 
 Instead, she has been careful to present to your attention 
 only the kernel of such systems as have been advocated, 
 tested, and practiced by the best authorities of this and 
 other countries, and which have "made good." This 
 book represents the most conscientious research and 
 the most careful selection. The writer feels that she is 
 presenting to her readers a diet of pure grain, with lit- 
 tle or no chaff. Every page contains condensed, valu- 
 able information, theory being but little touched upon, 
 and practice being emphasized, although, of course, she 
 
has striven to show the reason underlying her advice — 
 the "why" as well as the "how." 
 
 "All Beauty Comes from Within." The reader should 
 understand from the beginning that the best authorities 
 agree in the belief that there is no method whereby a 
 woman may gain, preserve, or regain beauty solely from 
 "the outside." While there are certain things which 
 will enhance the physical charms, there must always be 
 a foundation of sound physical condition underlying the 
 outside treatment and supporting it. "All beauty 
 comes from within," says a well-known French writer, 
 and this axiom is heartily agreed to by the present 
 writer. 
 
 Beauty More than "Skin-Deep." By "the inside," 
 and "within," the writer means the physical organism 
 of the woman which is affected for good or ill by con- 
 ditions of health and disease, respectively. A good, 
 clean, strong, healthy body is the only foundation for 
 real beauty, and the first work of the beauty-seeker is to 
 bring about such a physical condition if she has it not 
 already. It is true that one may sometimes conceal an 
 unhealthy and poorly nourished body by means of 
 cosmetics and similar masks. But this, at the best, is 
 but putting on a coat over an unpleasant surface 
 material, and the illusion will not last long. The aim 
 of the true teacher of beauty-culture should be "beauty 
 from the inside," and "beauty all the way through." 
 The old saying that "beauty is but skin-deep" is not 
 true. 
 
 10 
 
Digging the Foundations. You may at first ex- 
 perience a feeling akin to disappointment, when I now 
 tell you that the beauty-building process begins with 
 the removal of that most common complaint known as 
 costiveness, or constipated bowels; and that the first 
 building work on the new foundations is that of restor- 
 ing to the bowels a natural, healthy, normal method of 
 activity. Rather prosaic and unromantic, isn't it, 
 milady? And yet it is most necessary. You will thank 
 me a thousand times for this advice, if you persist and 
 follow me to the end, in practice as well as in the reading 
 of my words. 
 
 Beautiful "All the Way Through." You may ob- 
 ject that you are not troubled with constipation, that 
 you have a call of nature each day. Never mind, read 
 the next chapter and then decide whether what you say 
 is true. If you are at all interested in the subject of in- 
 ner cleanliness, and the blooming health which results 
 therefrom, you will do well to read carefully what I 
 have now to say to you on this most important subject, 
 disagreeable and unromantic though it be. 
 
 My experience has been that the facts related in the 
 next chapter will be a surprise to the average woman, 
 and will throw light upon many unpleasant conditions 
 which have previously annoyed and perplexed her; and 
 will enable her to account for a number of disagreeable 
 symptoms and conditions which have been obstacles to 
 her in her search for beauty. Therefore, I state them at 
 the very beginning and lay such great stress upon them. 
 11 
 
chapter ii. 
 The Root of Physical Evil. 
 
 82 NE of the most frequent causes of 
 general physical disorder, discomfort, 
 and physical unsightliness is that 
 most disagreeable of bodily com- 
 plaints known as constipation. 
 
 Constipation. Constipation is 
 caused by an undue retention of the 
 refuse of the system in the large 
 intestine or colon, or, rather, by the 
 imperfect evacuation thereof. The 
 causes of constipation are various. 
 Often it is caused by a torpid condition of the liver. 
 Again it arises from a loss of tone in the muscular 
 coat of the alimentary canal. In some cases it is due 
 to the eating of an excessive amount of food, par- 
 ticularly when the food is of a nature difficult of 
 digestion. 
 
 On the other hand, many diseases have their origin 
 in a constipated colon, and it is but slight exaggeration 
 to echo the saying of a well-known, old-time physician, 
 who said: "Constipation is the root of all physical 
 ills." As we proceed, we shall see more clearly why 
 this is so. 
 
 12 
 
Constipation is very common, especially among 
 those who lead a sedentary life. It is, perhaps, more 
 common among women than men, probably because 
 the majority of women do not have sufficient exercise in 
 the open air, and also, very likely, because the average 
 woman is apt to defer prompt response to the calls of 
 nature, while the average man is more likely to act more 
 speedily in response to nature 's alarm. 
 
 Results of Constipation. A medical authority sums 
 up the more common ills arising from constipation as 
 follows: "In most cases there is headache, and, if the 
 disease is protracted, there is apt to follow colic, hem- 
 orrhoids, cutaneous eruptions, hysteria, or even 
 epilepsy." Among the more common results arising 
 from a constipated colon are a furred tongue, sallow 
 and muddy complexion, pimply and rough skin, and a 
 foul breath, all of which are most undesirable, and 
 which tend to render the person unattractive in 
 appearance. 
 
 The Nature of Constipation. Let me now briefly 
 consider the nature of constipation, that you may real- 
 ize its real causes, its seriousness, and the desirability 
 of correcting the complaint. For remember that con- 
 stipation can be overcome by the exercise of a little 
 care, the taking of a few simple precautions, and the 
 following of a simple plan of nature cure — all without 
 the use of drugs. Surely it is worth while to spend a few 
 moments in acquainting one's self with the nature of 
 this pernicious complaint, even though the details may 
 13 
 
be considered as not exactly "nice." The complaint 
 itself is far from "nice," and one should not shrink from 
 a few unpleasant details, when one considers what an 
 unpleasant condition may be removed by the result of 
 the knowledge to be obtained from a consideration of 
 these details. Foul drains and sewers are not pleasant 
 subjects for thought; and yet one must become aware of 
 their existence, in order to correct the trouble, and to 
 restore them to a state of cleanliness and sanitary con- 
 dition, that one may be benefited by their offices, in- 
 stead of being poisoned and contaminated by their 
 proximity. As we proceed, you will see that the anal- 
 ogy is not forced, for a constipated colon is as foul as 
 any bad drain or sewer that ever existed. 
 
 The Colon. To understand the causes and nature of 
 constipation, we must acquaint ourselves, first, with the 
 nature and offices of the colon, that great sewer of the 
 body. The colon is the large bowel or canal which 
 carries away from the body the refuse matter of the 
 system which has been discarded by the stomach and 
 small intestines after they have taken from the food 
 material the nourishment contained therein. The colon 
 is nearly five feet in length, rising upward along the 
 right-hand side of the abdomen, then passing across to 
 the upper left-hand side, then down to the lower left- 
 hand side. When the colon reaches the lower left-hand 
 side of the abdomen, it forms a peculiar twist or curve 
 called the sigmoid flexure, and then grows much smaller 
 in its final descent, terminating in what is known as the 
 14 
 
rectum, or small passage leading to the anus, the latter 
 being the muscular ring through which the waste mat- 
 ter takes its final exit from the body. 
 
 In a state of nature, mankind, like the lower animals, 
 speedily discharges the waste matter from the colon, 
 when the call of nature prompts, by what is known as a 
 "passage" or "movement" of the bowels. Primitive 
 mankind, like the lower animals, eating the proper 
 amount of fruits, etc., drinking a proper amount of 
 fluids, and finally, responding readily to natural calls, 
 carried out nature's plans. But civilized mankind not 
 only refuses to eat a sufficient amount of fruits, and 
 still more positively refuses to drink a sufficient amount 
 of fluids to carry off the waste matter, and, finally, post- 
 pones the response to nature's call until the nerves and 
 muscles operating the colon, rectum, and anus become 
 discouraged and manifest a tendency to refuse to func- 
 tion normally — and that terrible condition known as 
 constipation results. 
 
 The Impacted Colon. Constipation really means a 
 condition of "crowding together in a small space." In 
 a constipated colon the refuse matter is crowded and 
 squeezed together into a smaller and then still smaller 
 space, until it becomes a hard, tough mass instead of 
 the soft, moist substance that nature intended it to be. 
 The colon, weakened by careless habits, fails to readily 
 and speedily discharge its normal amount of refuse, and 
 a portion of the waste matter remains within its length, 
 being packed tighter and tighter each day. Moreover, 
 15 
 
the colon is filled with numerous minute absorbent 
 tubes which drain off the fluids of the retained waste 
 matter, and reabsorb the same into the system, which 
 not only tends to poison the blood but also to convert 
 the remaining solid waste material into averyhard mass. 
 I shall speak of the evil effects of this drained-off fluidic 
 matter a little later on; let me first consider the undesir- 
 able effects of the impacted hard solid matter left in the 
 colon. 
 
 The Defective Drain Pipe. In the first place, an im- 
 pacted or constipated colon tends to gather hardened 
 material around its outer edges, leaving a small opening 
 in the center of the mass through which a small amount 
 of waste matter is forced, from time to time, toward the 
 lower end of- the colon. This small amount may be 
 passed off in a slight movement, as often as once a day, 
 so that a person may really be very constipated and yet 
 have a small movement once a day, and thus fail to dis- 
 cover her actual condition. In such cases, the discharge 
 is from the lower end of the colon only, and some of the 
 worst cases of constipation may be accompanied by 
 these slight daily passages. In the meantime, the upper 
 part of the colon (excepting a small opening in the cen- 
 ter of the mass) may be tightly packed with a hard, foul 
 mass of putrescent waste matter, bearing down the 
 abdomen, pressing on delicate organs, pushing out of 
 place important parts of the physical machinery, and 
 tending to poison the entire system like a sewer or drain 
 pipe which "backs up." 
 
 16 
 
Startling Facts. The annals of medical science 
 throw a startling light on the subject of the amount of 
 this impacted matter that a constipated colon may hold, 
 and the condition of this matter so retained within it. 
 Some of the best authorities state that a badly impacted 
 colon will often contain as much waste matter as it 
 would ordinarily require several normal colons to hold. 
 In some cases the hardened matter weighs many pounds, 
 adding materially to the weight and size of the person, 
 and pushing out of place, or bearing heavily upon, some 
 of the most delicate and sensitive portions of the sexual 
 organism, the result of the latter being particularly 
 detrimental. In some cases the impacted matter is as 
 hard as soft coal, and packed into large bunches or 
 lumps, particularly in the sigmoid flexure. 
 
 The Cause of Many Ills. A medical authority says 
 on this subject: " Occasionally a cavity will become so 
 greatly enlarged as to be mistaken for an ovarian tumor 
 or a malignant growth of some abdominal organ 
 . . . When the accumulations are large, the increased 
 weight of the colon tends to displace it; then the trans- 
 verse colon may descend even into the pelvis. An 
 impacted colon, in an adult, may present a circumference 
 of fifteen inches . . . The mass may be so enormous as 
 to press upon any organ located in the abdomen, inter- 
 fering with its functions; thus we may have pressure on 
 the liver that arrests the flow of bile; or, upon the uri- 
 nary organs, crippling their functions." Many women 
 seeking in vain for relief from uterine complaints, might 
 17 
 
easily find relief and health by removing the real cause — 
 constipation. 
 
 Poisoning the System. Finally, the reabsorption of 
 the fluidic portion of the waste matter back into the 
 system, tends to poison the whole s} r stem. Think of 
 having a foul sewer in your system, pouring out its 
 putrid matter into your blood; rendering your breath 
 foul and your complexion muddy or sallow; filling your 
 skin with blotches, spots, or pimples; giving a muddy 
 look to your eyes, and a yellow tinge to your eyeballs; 
 causing you to exude strong, sweaty perspiration 
 (nature's effort to throw out of the system the foul 
 matter absorbed from the colon); and giving you a 
 general feverish, nervous, fidgety feeling and an ab- 
 normal, freaky appetite! Think of it, milady, and then 
 get to work to get rid of the thing that is causing it! 
 
 Now do not rush toward your medicine chest and 
 proceed to dose yourselves with cathartics. Cure does 
 not lie in that way. Go to the root of the trouble — re- 
 move the cause, not the symptoms, and the latter will 
 disappear together with the cause. This matter is one 
 well worth while. You will thank me for telling you 
 of it. 
 
 18 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 The Uprooting Process. 
 
 122 T is a sad commentary upon the aver- 
 age instruction regarding hygiene 
 and general physiological topics, to 
 note how naturally the mind of the 
 average individual turns toward 
 cathartic drugs the moment that 
 the subject of constipation and its 
 attendant ills is brought up in con- 
 versation or writing. The purgative 
 or cathartic pill habit is well-formed 
 in the case of a large percentage of 
 persons. They regard the little pill with reverence, 
 and treat its periodical taking as an almost sacred 
 rite. They little know that the innocent looking little 
 pill has done more to establish habitual and chronic con- 
 stipation than almost any other one thing. The con- 
 scientious physician will inform you that the habitual 
 use of purgative drugs is injurious; and also that medical 
 science knows of no drug cure for chronic constipation. 
 Many of the best physicians recommend drugless treat- 
 ment for chronic constipation as the only possible hope. 
 And yet, as all students of natural healing know, con- 
 stipation, even in its chronic form, yields readily to 
 19 
 
rational methods persistently applied and conscien- 
 tiously conducted. It is these rational methods that 
 I now ask you to consider. 
 
 Purgative Drugs Useless. It must be remembered, 
 first and last, that purgative drugs do not, and can not, 
 cure constipation. Their action is that of an irritant of 
 the organs of digestion and assimilation, these organs 
 uniting in a vigorous effort to expel the irritating sub- 
 stances by pouring out fluids to wash them out of the 
 system, and by Betting up muscular disturbances to ex- 
 pel them from the bowels. Nature proceeds to expel 
 the purgative, just as it does the poisonous, or otherwise 
 harmful, substances which have inadvertently been 
 introduced into the system. The pains, gripes, and 
 straining following the use of purgatives, as well as the 
 general feeling of weakness following the evacuation of 
 the bowels caused by their use, should plainly show that 
 the process is unnatural and harmful. Moreover, even 
 the passages so produced merely pass through the little 
 opening of a badly impacted colon, and do little or noth- 
 ing toward removing the hardened substance. And, 
 again, the effect of a purgative soon "wears off" — that 
 is, a stronger dose is required, the system has acquired 
 immunity against the irritating substance. 
 
 Flushing the Sewer. Before proceeding to a con- 
 sideration of the methods whereby a natural habit of 
 movement of the bowels may be established and main- 
 tained, in cases in which it has been lost, let us first 
 consider the best plan of removing the impacted waste 
 20 
 
matter which has been packed in the colon, particu- 
 larly in its pockets, curves, and twists. We must pro- 
 ceed in precisely the same way in which we would were 
 we desirous of cleaning out any other channel, canal, 
 gutter, or pipe, i.e., washing it out with water, — turning 
 the hose into it. 
 
 Flushing the colon to remove its accumulated 
 hardened waste matter is no new remedy. It has 
 been practiced by many of the best physicians in 
 hospitals for many years, and is in steady use by 
 thousands of individuals, many of whom have been 
 restored to health by its use. It has been brought 
 into disrepute, at times, owing to the extravagant 
 claims of some of its more ardent advocates, par- 
 ticularly in cases in which the method was advanced 
 as a " great discovery" or "patent method," sold to 
 suffering patients at a high price. 
 
 Some of these over-zealous advocates have gone so 
 far as to claim that patients would do well to use the 
 colon flush habitually, discarding the natural movement 
 of the bowels as antiquated and inefficient. The mere 
 mention of this extravagant claim should be sufficient 
 to show its fallacy. 
 
 How to Flush the Colon. The sufferer from an im- 
 pacted colon, or habitual constipation, should start by 
 flushing the colon with hot water. The injection or 
 "enema" is applied in the ordinary manner, from one 
 quart to two quarts of hot water being used for an adult. 
 
 In some cases the person will find difficulty in inject- 
 21 
 
ing more than one quart, in which case no effort should 
 be made to force more than that amount; later on, two 
 quarts may be taken easily. As the clogged up material 
 is removed from the lower part of the colon, the matter 
 further along will be pushed forward and become 
 loosened so that it may be removed at the next injection. 
 Moreover, the first injection will usually remove the 
 clogged matter resting in and about the sigmoid flexure 
 and thus make the admission of a larger quantity of 
 water easier the next time. 
 
 In flushing the colon, use the ordinary bulb syringe 
 or a fountain syringe, either of which may be procured 
 from any druggist at a nominal price. Use water about 
 as hot as you would use in a "hot-water" wash of the 
 face and hands — your hand will indicate the tempera- 
 ture. Lukewarm water tends to produce cramp-pains 
 in the colon, and, on the other hand, scalding hot water 
 would inflame the mucous membrane. Follow the 
 temperature above indicated, using the hand as a 
 thermometer. 
 
 Assume any position which may be most comfort- 
 able to you, in taking the enema, the kneeling position 
 being preferred by many. Placing a little vaseline, 
 cold cream, or even soap, on the tip of the injection tube 
 will cause it to be more easily introduced into the anus. 
 If the water does not flow freely at first partially with- 
 draw the point, and then gently press it forward again, 
 and the flow will follow. At first there will probably be 
 manifested a desire to evacuate the water injected the 
 22 
 
first few moments, but strive to control and resist this, 
 and the feeling of discomfort will disappear. After the 
 water reaches the sigmoid flexure, it begins the real 
 work of flushing the colon. In case the lower part of 
 the colon is badly impacted you may first allow that to 
 be discharged, and then resume the main process of 
 colon-cleansing. 
 
 After the proper amount of water has been injected, 
 rest quiet a few moments, rubbing and kneading the 
 abdomen gently in order to loosen the impacted par- 
 ticles of waste matter in the colon. Then take the closet 
 seat, and allow the water and accumulations to pass 
 from you. You will be surprised, and perhaps shocked, 
 by the quantity and character of the foul matter then 
 discharged, and you will require no further proof of the 
 value of the treatment. 
 
 You may have several subsequent small passages 
 within an hour after taking the injection. You may 
 also notice an increased flow of urine, as the kidneys 
 will absorb some of the water injected, and will dis- 
 charge it in the usual way. You will probably have no 
 regular movement the day following the flushing but do 
 not let that worry you as nature will soon re-establish 
 normal conditions. At first flush the colon twice a 
 week; then once a week; then once every other week; 
 then once a month; and so on steadily increasing the 
 period between flushings until you discontinue alto- 
 gether. Some persons prefer to take a regular flushing 
 say once a month, as a preventive of constipation; 
 23 
 
others once every three months; others, only when ex- 
 ceptional conditions seem to warrant its use. Use your 
 own discretion in the matter, according to your own ex- 
 perience and preferences. I advocate the colon flush 
 here principally for the purpose of the primary cleans- 
 ing of the colon, preparatory to the beginning of a 
 rational course of living, to the consideration of which 
 we shall now proceed. 
 
 The Drugless Cure of Constipation. The drugless 
 cure of constipation begins with the removal of the 
 debris of the past unnatural mode of living, to the end 
 that Nature may henceforth perform her office in a nor- 
 mal manner. The balance of the cure consists in a 
 manner and mode of natural living — eating, drinking, 
 exercising, relaxing, and sleeping, easy of performance 
 and wonderfully efficacious in its results. And, most 
 wonderful of all, you will find that this course of living 
 will not only cure the constipation, and restore normal 
 and natural functioning of the organs of excretion, but 
 also that your entire physical being will respond to the 
 treatment indicated, and that you will become gener- 
 ally healthy, strong, vigorous, energetic, and above all 
 BEAUTIFUL, as a consequence. Is this not worth 
 while, milady? 
 
 24 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Beauty and Internal Cleanliness. 
 
 I2|!T is axiomatic that beauty is based on 
 cleanliness. Without cleanliness 
 | there can be no true beauty; and 
 even where nature has been most 
 kind to the young woman or girl 
 in the direction of bestowing the 
 beauty of youth, that beauty can- 
 not long be preserved unless its 
 owner observes the rules of physical 
 cleanliness. 
 ijHsS The best authorities, moreover, 
 agree in the belief that there cannot exist external 
 cleanliness and beauty unless there be also internal 
 cleanliness. It is only when mankind departs from the 
 natural manner of life and living that this internal 
 purity is lost, and there develops a need of instruction 
 on the subject — a calling back to nature. 
 
 Water: Nature's Elixir. In order to create and 
 preserve internal cleanliness, nature employs a most 
 simple means and a most simple agent, namely, 
 WATER. Science informs us that water is closely 
 connected with life in all of its forms. The elementary 
 forms of life originated in the water of the sea, and in 
 25 
 
the bodies of all the higher living creatures it is neces- 
 sary for every cell of the body to be supplied with its 
 bath of water in order that it may live and prosper. 
 There can be no life without water. The plant withers 
 and fades if its water be withdrawn, and animal life 
 soon perishes if the water supply be withheld. A half- 
 withered plant is not beautiful; neither is a half-with- 
 ered woman beautiful; and the cause is frequently 
 found to be the same, lack of a proper supply of fluids. 
 
 Over eighty per cent of the human body is fluid, and 
 the remaining twenty per cent is dependent upon the 
 fluid portion for life, strength, and activity. It is im- 
 possible for any of our bodily organs to function prop- 
 erly unless tiny arc supplied with a sufficient amountof 
 fluids. Look for a moment at the following list of im- 
 portant offices performed by the fluids of the system: 
 
 Some Vital Facts. Every twenty-four hours there 
 is passed from the body of the healthy adult human 
 being over one and one half pints of water in the form 
 of perspiration; and nearly three pints of water in the 
 form of urine, etc. The blood, upon which all physical 
 nourishment depends, is principally composed of water 
 which serves to carry the particles of nourishment to all 
 parts of the body, and at the same time to carry back on 
 its return journey the waste discarded particles of 
 refuse thrown off by the cells of the body. The gastric 
 juices, the pancreatic fluids, and the other fluids of the 
 digestive system, including the bile, are principally 
 water. 
 
 26 
 
Unless sufficient water be taken into the system each 
 day, the organs cannot perform their work properly; 
 the waste matter of the system is not thrown off, but 
 gathers and accumulates in a filthy condition, and 
 disease results. Such diseased conditions naturally 
 reflect themselves on the complexion and general ap- 
 pearance, and beauty fades. Reverse the process, give 
 the body the necessary fluids, and there results health, 
 and finally beauty. So, by all means, milady seeking 
 beauty, you should see that you partake of a sufficient 
 amount of fluids daily in order to accomplish the above 
 desirable results. 
 
 The lack of sufficient fluids is especially noticed in 
 the case of the bowels. One of the principal causes of 
 constipation is the lack of sufficient fluids, which causes 
 the bowels to become clogged with foul matter with the 
 many evils which follow in its train. It is an absolute 
 fact that without sufficient water the bowels will not oper- 
 ate naturally. And it is likewise an absolute fact that 
 natural habits may be restored to the bowels by restor- 
 ing the natural amount of fluids to the system by drink- 
 ing the proper amount of water. 
 
 The animals drink what water their systems require ; 
 primitive races of mankind do the same; and so do 
 young children, until they are spoiled by the customs 
 of their elders. The primitive man, living near cool 
 streams, does not need to be told to drink water, for he 
 does so instinctively. But the dwellers in houses, 
 especially those living in the cities and towns, find the 
 27 
 
warm water of summer disagreeable, and gradually 
 neglect to drink water as nature intended. Women, 
 especially, fall into this mistake, finding it "too much 
 trouble to run for water" when they are busy with 
 household work, social duties, etc. 
 
 Cause and Effect. Many women will indignantly 
 answer that they have never drunk water except in 
 small daily quantities, and they have never felt the 
 need of more. Certainly, good sisters, but what is the 
 result? I venture to say that in nearly every case 
 where a woman has failed to partake of a natural amount 
 of fluids, it will be found that her skin is dry, wrinkled, 
 and sallow or muddy; her eyes cloudy; her eyeballs 
 yellowish; her face and body somewhat pimply; her 
 bowels costive; her urine sciTnty and strong; her 
 perspiration strong and disagreeable; her breath 
 unpleasant ; and her body anaemic ; at least to a cer- 
 tain degree. 
 
 Whenever I meet a woman whose face resembles a 
 dried apple, I know certainly that that woman does not 
 drink enough fluids. The same cause which results in 
 the drying of the apple, operates in the case of the 
 dricd-up woman — lack of water. 
 
 Moreover, I am convinced that in many cases of 
 female troubles, particularly in difficult and painful 
 menstruation, a lack of the proper amount of fluids will 
 be found to exist. These are important matters, and 
 closely bound to the general subject of beauty, and 
 must be taken into consideration by all women who are 
 28 
 
desirous of gaining, regaining, or retaining physical 
 beauty. 
 
 The Normal Quantity of Fluids. The best author- 
 ities on the subject of physiology hold that the normal 
 amount of fluids required daily by the average adult is 
 not less than two quarts daily. The best results are 
 obtained if this amount is well distributed throughout 
 the day, small quantities being taken at a time. This 
 amount is actually needed to carry off the waste prod- 
 ucts of the system, through the perspiration, urine, 
 and bowels, and it must be supplied, else trouble results. 
 Internal cleanliness, health, and beauty demand this. 
 Therefore, see that you follow the rule. 
 
 It is well to acquire the habit of taking a drink of 
 fresh water the first thing in the morning. Form the 
 habit, and thereafter you will enjoy the morning "wash- 
 ing out" of the stomach. A drink of water just before 
 retiring is also a good habit to form, for it "works 
 while you sleep." During the day the water may be 
 taken in small quantities. A little water before meals 
 will often freshen and tone up the stomach. The 
 principal objection to water drinking during meals is 
 that it causes the bad habit of "washing down" of the 
 food, thereby robbing the food of the advantage of 
 proper mastication, salivation, etc. Beyond this, there 
 is very little objection to drinking a reasonable amount 
 of water at mealtime, although some authorities have 
 strenuously opposed the use of any fluids at such times, 
 particularly in the case of over-fatness. 
 29 
 
Hot Water Drinking. Some will find the before- 
 breakfast cup of hot water very beneficial, in connection 
 with the regular habit of daily water drinking above 
 recommended. In such case the water should be about 
 as hot as a cup of good hot tea. Hot water in the 
 morning has a tendency to loosen up the mucous 
 accumulations in the stomach, and to otherwise dis- 
 solve and carry off refuse matter. Many cases of dys- 
 pepsia and weak stomach have been cured in this way. 
 There are those who use a cup of hot water taken one 
 half hour before each meal with excellent results in 
 health and beauty. 
 
 The Water Cure of Constipation. And now for an 
 important statement, viz. : The cultivation of the proper, 
 natural, normal habit of water drinking, as stated in this 
 chapter, will result in the complete cure of costiveness or 
 constipation with all of its train of ills. 
 
 In other chapters I shall have something to say 
 regarding the effect of certain foods, exercises, etc., on 
 constipation, but the real backbone of the cure is the 
 proper amount of fluids daily taken into the system, as 
 stated herein. Moreover, along with the improved 
 bowel action will come a more regular discharge of 
 waste matter through the kidneys, skin, etc. The com- 
 plexion will clear, the cheeks fill up, the body become 
 plumper, the eyes brighter, the breath sweeter, and a 
 general appearance of freshness will take the place of 
 the "dried-apple" appearance of which we have spoken. 
 Surely this is well worth while, milady, is it not? The 
 30 
 
remedy is simple but the results are often miraculous 
 in their speedy and effective action. 
 
 The Human Plant. Think of yourself as a beauti- 
 ful flowering plant, which requires a proper amount of 
 water each day in order to keep fresh and fragrant. 
 And also remember what happens to the plant when the 
 proper amount of water is withheld. 
 
 31 
 
chapter v. 
 External Cleanliness. 
 
 iO the average person the idea of the 
 bath is merely that of removing 
 from the surface of the body the 
 accumulated dust and foreign mat- 
 ter deposited there by the wind, 
 contact with other material, etc., 
 the main idea regarding the process 
 of removal being that of avoidance 
 of a "dirty" appearance, the satis- 
 faction of aesthetic feelings, and 
 ™" R ' the bestowing of a feeling of phys- 
 ical comfort. These conceptions and ideas are all very 
 worthy and are very well so far as they go, but they do 
 not go far enough. There is far more to the idea and 
 intent of the bath than those things, as we shall see as we 
 proceed, particularly in the direct relation of the bath 
 to beauty culture. 
 
 The True Inwardness of the Bath. In order to under- 
 stand the true inwardness of the bath, it is first neces- 
 sary to understand something of the structure and aci ion 
 of the skin. This understanding once had, one then 
 may readily see the why and wherefore of the bath, and 
 its close relation to beauty. 
 32 
 
In the first place, the skin is far more than a mere 
 covering to protect the inner parts of the body; far more 
 than being the external surface of thousands of minute 
 nerves designed to convey sensations from the outside 
 world to the brain. Important as are these offices of 
 the skin, it has other offices of equal importance, which 
 have a direct relation to the subject we are now con- 
 
 Among the less-thought-of functions of the skin are 
 the following: (1) the regulation of the temperature of 
 the body by means (a) of the evaporation of the per- 
 spiration to produce coolness; and (b) the reaction or 
 flow of the blood to the surface to produce heat; the 
 first being a protection against heated atmosphere, 
 and the second a protection against the effects of ex- 
 treme cold; (2) the work of excreting, or carrying off 
 from the body, the waste products and refuse matter of 
 the system, by means of the perspiration. When the 
 importance of these functions is recognized, we may 
 readily perceive the close connection between the cleans- 
 ing bath and beauty, for without a healthy condition 
 of the skin there can be no such thing as general beauty, 
 and more particularly no such thing as a clear and natu- 
 ral complexion. 
 
 The skin of the human being is composed of two 
 separate and distinct layers, namely: (1) the dermis or 
 true skin; and (2) the epidermis, or scarfskin. The 
 dermis, or true skin, lies beneath the epidermis or scarf- 
 skin, and is composed of muscular fibers, blood vessels, 
 33 
 
etc., sweat glands, and the follicles of the hair. The 
 epidermis, or scarfskin (also often called "the cuticle"), 
 rests over the dermis, and is simply a collection of skin 
 cells, it containing no blood vessels, nerves, etc. It is 
 this outer skin, cuticle, or epidermis, which "peels off" 
 occasionally without damage to the underlying layers. 
 
 The epidermis, or cuticle, is continuously forming 
 new cells, and at the same time shedding or throwing off 
 dead cells in the form of a dry, scaly dust. These dis- 
 carded scabs or skin cells are thrown off by the millions 
 on the body of every human being in the space of a few 
 hours. Being very tiny, they are not readily noticed 
 except when they accumulate on the surface of the body 
 becoming mixed with the exuding perspiration and oils 
 of the bod} r , in which case they form the tiny rolls which 
 are sometimes noticed when the body is scrubbed. It 
 is the cuticle, or epidermis, which forms the outer 
 "complexion," although, of course, it is influenced by 
 the condition of the underlying dermis from which its 
 fresh cells arise. 
 
 I have spoken of the offices of the skin, whereby the 
 surface of the body is protected against excessive cold 
 or excessive heat. It follows that if the skin is not kept 
 in a healthy condition, these offices will not be properly 
 performed, and the skin will consequently suffer. 
 Proper bathing affords us the solution of the trouble. 
 
 Perspiration. Very few persons realize that the 
 skin acts as one of the great organs of excretion whereby 
 the system discards its waste matter; the other impor- 
 34 
 
tant excretory organs being the bowels, the kidneys, and 
 the breath. There is, as you know, a great quantity of 
 impure waste matter generated in the work of the body 
 which is of the nature of foul refuse — the garbage of the 
 system — and which must be thrown out of the system 
 regularly and promptly else ill health ensues and beauty 
 disappears. The great mass of coarser refuse is carried 
 off through the bowels; a large amount is carried off in 
 the urine, through the work of the kidneys; a small 
 portion is carried off through the breath; and a very 
 considerable portion is carried off in the perspiration, 
 through the pores of the skin. When the kidneys are 
 not working properly, the skin is called upon to do 
 extra work in the direction of throwing off the debris of 
 the system. 
 
 The skin of the adult human being contains over 
 three million tiny sweat glands, the combined length of 
 which exceeds five miles. The blood niters out into 
 these tiny sweat glands a large amount of waste matter 
 every hour of the day and the glands carry it in the shape 
 of perspiration to the surface of the body, where it is 
 cast off. The perspiration rapidly evaporates, if the 
 epidermis is clean, and is scarcely noticed except in very 
 warm weather. Even warm, dry air takes it up rap- 
 idly without it being noticed. But when the atmos- 
 phere is warm and humid the perspiration gathers in 
 drops. Exercise also increases the perspiration, and 
 thus renders it noticeable. 
 
 Poisonous Waste Matter. An analysis of the 
 35 
 
perspiration shows it to be of a poisonous nature, as 
 might be expected when it is remembered that it is 
 composed of water carrying in solution the waste prod- 
 ucts of the system. In many respects the perspiration 
 is very similar to urine. If the colon is impacted (see 
 previous chapters) the perspiration is apt to be very 
 strong and disagreeable, for it must carry off the foul 
 matter which should naturally have been carried off by 
 the bowels. Likewise, if sufficient fluids are not par- 
 taken of, the kidneys are not doing their normal share 
 of carrying off the garbage of the system, and, as a con- 
 sequence, the perspiration must do extra work and 
 accordingly is strong and disagreeable. 
 
 Keeping the Pores Clean. All medical text-books 
 explain how necessary it is that the skin shall be kept 
 clean and free from obstructions in order that the 
 perspiration may flow freely and readily, and the foul 
 waste matter may be discarded from the system. Cases 
 in which large portions of the skin have been covered 
 tightly with substances like varnish, etc., have resulted 
 in illness and in some cases even in death, the cause be- 
 ing that the poisons of the perspiration not being allowed 
 to flow forth have been turned back into the system and 
 have poisoned it. Proper bathing keeps the surface of 
 the skin in a clean, healthy condition, so that nature's 
 work is properly performed. 
 
 The skin also performs an office similar to breathing, 
 in which carbonic acid gas is thrown off, and oxygen in- 
 haled. A healthy condition of the skin is vitally neces- 
 36 
 
sary while an unhealthy condition interferes with it. 
 Another reason for the bath! 
 
 Oils of the Skin. And, finally, the skin when kept in 
 a healthy condition secretes a thin delicate oil for the 
 purpose of keeping itself soft and flexible, and for pre- 
 serving the hair. When the body is kept in a clean con- 
 dition this oil readily evaporates and is not ordinarily 
 noticeable. But when the body is not kept clean this 
 oil has a tendency to accumulate and gum up and render 
 the skin sticky and greasy. Still another reason for 
 proper bathing. 
 
 And so, now, milady, do you not see that the bath is 
 a very important thing in the work of beauty culture? 
 If you would be healthy and beautiful you join the 
 Divine Order of the Daily Bath — or several daily 
 baths, as Lillian Russell advises. 
 
 The complexion itself, directly and immediately, is 
 dependent for its health, freshness, brightness, clear- 
 ness, and beauty, upon the degree of cleanliness given 
 it. Do not make the mistake of supposing that one 
 can give great care to one part of the skin — the facial 
 complexion, for instance — and at the same time neglect 
 the remainder of the surface of the skin. The skin, as a 
 whole, must be kept in a good condition, else the facial 
 complexion will not be as its owner would wish it to be. 
 
 The combination of internal cleanliness, and external 
 
 cleanliness — the internal bath of the normal amount of 
 
 fluids, and the external bath of the proper kind and of 
 
 proper frequency — will surely repay the woman for the 
 
 37 
 
time and trouble expended upon it. The ancients 
 recognized this fact, and one of the most important ad- 
 juncts of the apartments of the Roman and Grecian 
 women were the baths and the drinking water systems. 
 The "beauty parlors" of the ancients were the bath 
 apartments, some of which attained a degree of luxury 
 unsurpassed even in this day of reckless expenditure on 
 the part of wealthy persons. 
 
 The Bath and Beauty. The woman who wishes to 
 gain, regain, or retain, her beauty, must make up her 
 mind right at the beginning that cleanliness of the body 
 is necessary for the attainment of physical beauty. 
 Not merely the customary hasty "wash off, " which or- 
 dinary decency demands from all, but a systematic, 
 careful, thorough course of bathing, sufficient to keep 
 the skin sweet, pure, and clean, and to allow nature 's 
 work to proceed without unnecessary obstacles. 
 This task will not require much time, but it will require 
 thought, perseverance, and lust, but not least, INTER- 
 EST, for without interest no task is ever accomplished 
 successfully. 
 
 38 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 The Science of the Bath. 
 
 Iff ERHAPS the best way to begin our 
 consideration of the subject of the 
 science of the bath, would be to give 
 you the celebrated rules of the bath 
 formulated by Sir Erasmus Wilson 
 of England, a noted authority. His 
 rules are as follows: 
 
 Wilson's Rules of the Bath. 
 
 I. Rub the skin and limbs gently 
 with the hands, while in the bath. 
 
 II. Try to feel when you have 
 had enough : — some can bear immersion in water longer 
 than others. 
 
 III. Never abuse the bath by bathing too long; 
 your own sensations are a better, test than time. 
 
 IV. Dry the body leisurely, with moderate friction, 
 beginning with the head; then take the arms and body, 
 then the legs and feet. 
 
 V. Rough friction of the skin is never necessary; 
 neither in the bath, nor out of it. 
 
 VI. Friction has three purposes, namely: to move 
 the circulation in the skin; to exercise the muscles; and 
 to rub off dirt and loose skin. 
 
 39 
 
VII. The cleansing of the skin is very much assisted 
 by soap; soap is a tonic to the skin and very wholesome; 
 it removes the old surface of the skin, and the coating 
 of dirt that is apt to form upon it. 
 
 VIII. Never dress until the body is perfectly dry; 
 then the clothing should be resumed leisurely, to give 
 the skin time to feel and breathe the air. 
 
 IX. (This rule applies to open-air bathing, only.) 
 
 X. If the bather be in a state of perspiration, he 
 should take a tepid bath before he resorts to the cold 
 bath. And if he be exhausted or fatigued, he may still 
 take a tepid bath, but on no account take a cold bath 
 at such a time. 
 
 XI. The time spent in the bath must be regulated 
 by the sensations of the bather; it may be longer for a 
 tepid bath than for a cold bath. 
 
 Temperatures of the Bath. There is some confusion 
 among the authorities regarding the distinctions of 
 temperature between the several forms of baths, but the 
 best authorities practically agree upon the following 
 table of temperatures: 
 
 Hot bath above 98 deg. Far. 
 
 Warm bath 90 to 98 deg. Far. 
 
 Tepid bath 80 to 90 deg. Far. 
 
 Cool bath 65 to 80 deg. Far. 
 
 Cold bath below 65 deg. Far. 
 
 There is a difference among individuals, of course, in the 
 
 matter of sensation and reaction to the temperature of 
 
 40 
 
the bath, but, as a rule, it may be said that a tempera- 
 ture of less than 80 degrees Fahrenheit will give the 
 bather the sensation of coolness; while a temperature of 
 over 90 degrees Fahrenheit will cause the sensation of 
 warmth. Below 65 degrees Fahrenheit will give a dis- 
 tinct sensation of "cold"; and above 98 degrees Fah- 
 renheit will cause a distinct sensation of "hot"; while 
 a temperature of between 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit 
 will give a neutral, or "tepid," sensation — neither 
 warmth nor chill. 
 
 The Warm Cleansing Bath. Passing by, for the 
 moment, the consideration of the hot and the cold baths, 
 let us consider the most common form of bath, the 
 warm cleansing bath, which is really of the greatest im- 
 portance to us in connection with the general subject of 
 beauty culture. This is the form of bath which is the 
 most necessary to the woman seeking to gain, regain, or 
 retain physical beauty; and which is the most nearly 
 adapted to the requirements of the case. While I am 
 not assuming that my readers are ignorant of the ordi- 
 nary requirements of the warm cleansing bath, I believe, 
 nevertheless, that the following suggestions may be of 
 benefit to them: 
 
 How to take the Warm Bath. I. Never take a hot 
 bath immediately before, or immediately after, eating a 
 meal. Never take a bath in less than one hour to one 
 and one half hours after eating a meal; and never eat ;i 
 meal in less than one half to three quarters of an hour 
 after bathing. 
 
 41 
 
II. The best time to take a warm bath is either (a) 
 the first thing in the morning, immediately after arising; 
 or (b) about ten o 'clock in the morning; or (c) at night, 
 the last thing before going to bed. Avoid taking a hot 
 bath when you are greatly fatigued or when the vitality 
 is low. 
 
 III. Have the temperature of the water pleasant 
 and agreeable to your individual feelings, avoiding the 
 sensation of chill on the one hand, and an uncomfort- 
 able feeling of heat on the other. 
 
 The Bathing Mit. It will be found pleasant and 
 beneficial to use the bathing mit in taking this cleansing 
 bath. These mits may be purchased at a nominal price 
 at almost any department store, or drug store ; they may 
 also be made for one 's self by using ordinary bath towel- 
 ing or a Turkish bath towel. They should come in pairs, 
 of course, and should not have thumbs; and should be 
 large enough to allow the fingers and thumb to be easily 
 extended within them. 
 
 To use these mits to the best advantage, you should 
 stand up in the bath, put your hands in the mits, wet 
 the mits thoroughly, and then squeeze some of the water 
 out of them; then rub the soap well into the mits, and 
 then soap your body well all over, beginning at the neck 
 and working down toward the toes. Then rinse out 
 the mits rapidly, and proceed to give your body a good 
 thorough scrubbing, from neck to feet. Then, after 
 rinsing the mits a second time, sink down into the bath 
 and give yourself a second rubbing over, under the water. 
 42 
 
Use of the Hands. Finish the bath with a good, 
 vigorous rubbing-down using your bare hands for this 
 purpose. Whatever may be the reason, there seems to 
 be some special virtue in the use of the bare hands upon 
 the surface of the body, which is not afforded by any 
 other method. It will also be found advantageous and 
 beneficial to knead the muscles of the body, rolling them 
 about, rubbing them, and, in short, giving yourself a 
 general short-timed massage, while in the bath. Fol- 
 low the warm bath with a rinsing or spraying of cold 
 or cool clean water. 
 
 Drying the Body. Dry the body, after bathing, with 
 a good soft, but thick, towel, using some little friction 
 but avoiding "roughness, " the latter being unnecessary 
 and besides being injurious to some skins. Then ad- 
 minister to your body a brief but effective patting or 
 "spanking" over the entire body, using your bare hands, 
 this exercise imparting life and vigor to the flesh and 
 skin, and leaving a most pleasant and invigorating feel- 
 ing as a result. 
 
 Then dress yourself comfortably. It will be found 
 that the performance of some light work after the bath — 
 such as ridding up the room, light housework, etc. — 
 will be beneficial. 
 
 General Advice. Those who live in places in which 
 access to the ordinary bath tub is not readily had, may 
 use, as a substitute, a bowl of warm water, using a piece 
 of oilcloth to stand upon, and adapting the above sug- 
 gestions to meet the requirements of the case. 
 43 
 
A daily bath of the kind above mentioned is recom- 
 mended by the best authorities as reasonable, but, if 
 same is impossible, do the best you can. Do not be- 
 come a bath fanatic or "crank," however, nor try to 
 scrub off your cuticle as if you were trying to remove it 
 in its entirety. 
 
 Soap and Bran Bags. Use a good mild soap. 
 Avoid the use of strong soaps, as the excessive use of 
 them will tend to render the skin harsh and scaly. 
 Many women find great satisfaction in the use of "bran 
 bags" in the bath, as these give to the water an agree- 
 able softness. These bags consist simply of ordinary 
 bran confined in a thin gauzy bag. The glutinous sub- 
 stance escapes through the bag, without the danger of 
 the bran clogging up the drainpipes. The bag is placed 
 in the tub when the water is first turned on and allowed 
 to remain during the process of filling the tub, and dur- 
 ing the bath itself. Some use starch, almond meal, or 
 marshmallow, in place of the bran, but the bran will be 
 found to answer every purpose. The bran bag is also 
 used effectively and agreeably in washing the face. 
 
 When the daily cleansing bath is found impossible 
 you should, at least, see that you use warm water and 
 soap under your armpits, between the thighs, and upon 
 your feet, at least once a clay, as these parts specially 
 require attention. 
 
 Hot and Cold Baths. I shall not go into detail re- 
 garding the use of the morning "cold plunge," or the 
 very hot "soaking" bath, both of which are favored 
 44 
 
by some persons. The cold plunge or shower is un- 
 doubtedly very beneficial to persons of robust consti- 
 tution, but the effect is sometimes too severe for persons 
 of less ruggedness, in which case the shower or spray 
 rinsing may be of cool water instead of cold. Use 
 the spray as cool as you can stand it, and gradually you 
 will want it colder. Cold water is tonic, and should be 
 used after the warm bath, avoiding shock but courting 
 the cold water until it becomes pleasant to the body 
 winter and summer. 
 
 AS 
 
chapter vii. 
 Food and Beauty. 
 
 ISSN this chapter, it is not my purpose 
 to lay down a hard and fast rule 
 regarding the general subject of 
 dietetics. This would not only be 
 a most difficult task, so widely do 
 the authorities differ on many points, 
 but it would also be one foreign to 
 the purpose of this work. I shall, 
 accordingly, stick closely to the 
 particular row that I am hoeing, 
 avoiding the tempting digressions, 
 and confining myself to the special subject of the foods 
 which affect, favorably or unfavorably, the physical 
 beauty of the woman. 
 
 How Food Affects Beauty. To many, the subject of 
 food and beauty may seem to be far apart, but those 
 who have made a close study of the subject know posi- 
 tively that an improper diet will do more to ruin a good 
 complexion than almost any other cause; not to speak 
 of the general evil effect upon the beauty of a woman, 
 arising from a state of ill health caused by improper 
 habits of eating, poorly selected foods, etc. The skin 
 itself is very easily affected by imperfect digestion. 
 46 
 
Flushing in spots, pimples, irritation of the skin, muddy 
 complexion, etc., are to be attributed directly to an im- 
 proper dietary. Moreover, some foods are too fatten- 
 ing, and thus affect one's beauty. Others render the 
 skin greasy, coarse, or otherwise unpleasant to the 
 sight. 
 
 The Mixed Dietary. The best authorities are gen- 
 erally agreed upon the benefits of a mixed dietary. The 
 result of such a course of diet is held to be far more sat- 
 isfactory, in the long run, than is any specialized system 
 based upon fads, "discoveries," or "patented courses." 
 Common sense and science agree upon this point. Cer- 
 tain articles are to be touched upon but lightly, or omit- 
 ted altogether in some cases, but, as a rule, a mixed diet, 
 of good, wholesome food — well masticated — is the best. 
 
 General Health and Beauty. And, right here, let me 
 state an axiom of the beauty-dietary, viz.: Any diet 
 that is conducive to general health is adapted to beauty 
 culture; any diet that adversely affects the general health is 
 unfit for the beauty-seeker. This is true mainly because 
 the skin is apt to be one of the first points which show 
 the results of an improper dietary — ill health manifests 
 itself in symptoms affecting the complexion. Good 
 meat, fresh fish, bread and butter, milk, fresh vegetables, 
 fruits, a moderate allowance of sweet things, a little 
 salt, etc., are not detrimental to general health, and are 
 therefore fit for the beauty-seeker. Another general 
 rule, viz. : Any food that disagrees with one will adversely 
 affect the complexion, and should be cut out of one 's dietary 
 47 
 
no matter how highly recommended by any authority. Dif- 
 ferent persons have different idiosyncrasies of diet, and 
 these must be respected. 
 
 The Question of Meats. Meat of the proper kind, 
 and eaten in moderation, is not injurious to the com- 
 plexion, notwithstanding the positive statements of 
 some of the anti-meat authorities. Fried meats are to 
 be shunned, as a rule; or at least eaten in moderation. 
 Moreover, meat served with rich dressings and sauces 
 should be touched lightly — the trouble is with the sauces 
 and dressings, however, rather than with the meat it- 
 self. Salt meats, and salt fish, are not harmful in 
 moderate quantities, if not served too often. Stale meat 
 and aged poultry — particularly the latter — are to be 
 avoided. Keep an eye on the cold-storage product. 
 A little fat meat may be eaten, but beware of too much 
 fat. Avoid greasy messes of meat; touch the gravy 
 ladle lightly. Beware of too much "rich" food, meat 
 dishes, or other forms. 
 
 Vegetables. Vegetables, if fresh, are proper articles 
 of diet for the beauty-seeker. Beware of stale vege- 
 tables, and avoid fried vegetable dishes. 
 
 Fruits. Fruits are good for the table of the beauty- 
 seeker, if fresh. The juices of fruit are especially 
 beneficial in msmy respects, and some beauty-culturists 
 lay great stress upon a liberal use of fruits in this con- 
 nection. 
 
 Laxative Foods. In the cure of constipation the use 
 of green vegetables, and fresh fruits, are important 
 48 
 
factors, although the proper use of water must be de- 
 pended upon as the principal medium of the cure. 
 Fruit eaten the first thing in the morning meal, and 
 the last thing at night, have a laxative effect upon the 
 bowels. Stewed prunes, figs, etc., or baked apples, 
 may also be used in this way with good results. 
 
 Sweet Things. Sweet things, including candies and 
 prepared sugary things, are good things for the beauty- 
 seeker to avoid, except occasionally and in moderate 
 quantities. A little sugar is needed by the system, but 
 the better way to take it is in sweet fruits, etc., and not 
 in sweetened dishes or confectionery. Avoid over-indul- 
 gence in sweets, unless you wish to lay on excessive fat, 
 and are fond of a pimply, muddy complexion. 
 
 Bread and Pastry. Good bread is all right, milady; 
 but avoid hot bread, hot cakes, pastry, and pies, and 
 cakes of all kinds — except sparingly. A too liberal in- 
 dulgence in morning cereal foods, sweetened with sugar, 
 and generally bolted without mastication, is to be 
 avoided. 
 
 Tea and Coffee. Tea and coffee may well be left 
 alone by the beauty-seeker; but if she will not make 
 this sacrifice, let her, at least, use moderation in this 
 respect. Tannin is excellent for converting the skin 
 into leather, particularly when mixed with milk and 
 sugar — but who wants a leather skin? 
 
 Alcoholic Drinks. Alcoholic drinks unfavorably 
 affect the general health, and act directly upon the skin, 
 rendering tin' complexion blotchy, irritated, and gener- 
 49 
 
ally in an unsatisfactory condition. A strong temper- 
 ance sermon could be preached from the standpoint of 
 the beauty-culturist. 
 
 The Two Great Evils. One of the greatest sources of 
 evil effects arising from eating is the failure to correctly 
 masticate the food. The second is overeating. Both 
 of these causes produce direct results upon the complex- 
 ion, and they should be remembered and avoided. 
 
 Mastication. Imperfect mastication, or chewing, 
 of the food is the source of many complaints arising 
 from a disordered digestion. Nature intends every 
 mouthful of food to be thoroughly masticated before it 
 is passed on to the stomach by being swallowed. Mas- 
 tication is necessary to break up the food into small par- 
 ticles so that the digestive juices of the stomach may 
 easily penetrate them; and also that the food particles 
 may be thoroughly saturated with saliva, for the saliva 
 is an important factor in the digestive process, and per- 
 forms work that no other of the digestive juices can 
 accomplish. 
 
 Remember that you have no gizzard like the fowls; 
 neither has your stomach any teeth with which to chew 
 your food after you have swallowed it; nor have you any 
 saliva stored in your system, other than in the glands of 
 the mouth. Therefore, the work of mastication and 
 insalivation must be performed while the food is in the 
 mouth, or not at all. And, inasmuch as imperfectly mas- 
 ticated food— food that is "bolted" — has a tendency 
 to produce disorders of the digestion, and such disorders 
 50 
 
are reflected by the complexion, it behooves all beauty- 
 seekers to pay a little attention to the proper chewing of 
 their food before swallowing it. Take a little time in 
 chewing your food, and you will not only obtain the 
 benefits of proper mastication, but will also get more 
 pleasure out of the taste of the food itself. 
 
 Overeating. As for overeating, well ! you should not 
 need me to tell you that this is harmful and destructive 
 of beauty. Your common sense should tell you that 
 overeating will upset your digestion; and as for beauty, 
 did you ever see a really beautiful glutton? The pig is 
 not a beautiful animal, is it? 
 
 The average woman, excepting those who perform 
 hard physical labor, eats too much food and too rich 
 food. She not only eats too many dishes, and too rich 
 dishes, but also then nibbles away between meals — too 
 many candies, too many cakes, too many pies, too many 
 rich gravies, sauces, and dressings; and, alas, in many 
 cases, too many lobster suppers. And yet, she expects 
 to retain her beauty, and even to add to it! She 
 consults high-priced beauty specialists; reads many 
 "courses" and "systems"; practices many fantastic 
 "stunts" to reduce fat and to bring a fresh complexion 
 — and still keeps on nibbling, nibbling, nibbling, stuff- 
 ing, stuffing, stuffing! This is not a pleasant thing to 
 say to you, miladies who love the fleshpots and the 
 candy boxes, but you must understand this thing if you 
 would attain that upon which your heart 's desire is set 
 — Beauty. You must pay the price of Beauty, if you 
 51 
 
would make it yours; or retain it if it is yours 
 originally. 
 
 The "Forbidden Fruit." To break up the pernicious 
 habit of overeating and the equally bad one of improper 
 indulgence in the "forbidden fruits" of the table, re- 
 quires will power and determination. The psycholo- 
 gists tell us that the best way to overcome a bad habit 
 is to build up its opposite — that is, to let the new habit 
 crowd out the old one. And they are right. The best 
 way to break off these bad habits of eating is to throw 
 your whole heart and soul into the habit of eating for 
 beauty, and the old, bad habits will in time die out. But 
 be firm with yourself. Do not give way even once, for 
 each slip undoes much that has been gained — a well- 
 known writer on psychology says that this is like drop- 
 ping a ball of yarn that you are winding, you lose by the 
 drop that which it has taken you much effort to wind. 
 You have a will within you — why not begin to use it? 
 Here is your chance. 
 
 52 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 EXERCBSE AND BEAUTY. 
 
 |§HE subject of physical exercise has 
 been brought into disfavor with 
 
 Tp many by the general tendency on 
 1 the part of writers on the subject to 
 overemphasize this phase of phys- 
 ical well-being and to promulgate in- 
 tricate systems of artificial exercises 
 which would require the entire time 
 of the average man or woman to 
 carry into effect. Like so many 
 good things, physical culture has 
 been injured by being overdone by the teachers — there 
 is such a thing as " too much of a good thing," as all of us 
 know by experience. I do not purpose falling into this 
 too common mistake. While fully recognizing the 
 value of physical exercise, I believe that a woman may 
 obtain all the requisite exercise in a normal, natural 
 manner, independent of artificial systems. I shall ad- 
 vise such a plan of exercising but will also give full 
 directions for a number of important and useful ex- 
 ercises for special purposes. 
 
 Value of Rational Exercise. It is a fact admitted by 
 all of the best authorities upon health and beauty, and 
 53 
 
disputed by none except a few "cranks," that a reason- 
 able amount of physical exercise is necessary for the 
 preservation of general health and the possession of 
 physical beauty. Without exercise the muscles and 
 tendons of the body tend toward flabbiness and weak- 
 ness, and the natural firmness of the body is lost. More- 
 over, there is a tendency to take upon one's self 
 additional and useless fat. Again, there is a tendency 
 toward imperfect circulation; and, also, there is apt to 
 develop a general sluggishness of the excretory organs 
 which carry off the waste matter through the bowels, 
 the kidneys, and the perspiration. 
 
 Why Exercise is Needed. Exercise, in moderation, is 
 required to supply the proper conditions under which the 
 chemical processes of the body are carried on. Nature 
 has a wonderful laboratory in the human body, in which 
 countless delicate operations are continuously carried 
 on. When the system is kept in good condition by 
 proper exercise, this laboratory works smoothly, easily, 
 and effectively, manufacturing the many secretions 
 which are essential to normal functioning, and carrying 
 off, dissolving, burning up, or transforming the waste 
 products of the system. Without the proper amount of 
 exercise, however, these chemical processes cannot be 
 performed as nature intended, and the result is that the 
 secretions are not manufactured in the proper propor- 
 tions, and in the proper degree of strength; neither are 
 the waste-eliminating processes carried on in a normal 
 manner; the consequence being that the organs are 
 54 
 
weakened, and there is stored up in the system a quan- 
 tity of harmful, poisonous products, which serve to affect 
 the general tone of the system, and, necessarily, the 
 physical appearance of the person. 
 
 Rational Exercise. But now, milady, all this does 
 not mean that you should spend your entire time in go- 
 ing through a long and complicated system of artificial 
 exercises in order to bring about a physical condition 
 conducive to beauty. There are, of course, special ex- 
 ercises adapted to development in certain directions; or 
 to reduce certain portions of the body, which we shall con- 
 sider by and by; but, as a rule, the normal amount of 
 physical exercise necessary to the average woman may 
 be obtained in the performance of the ordinary house- 
 hold duties, reasonable walking, and a normal amount 
 of "play" in the outside air. 
 
 Artificial Exercise. The great trouble about arti- 
 ficial exercises is that they are artificial. That is to 
 say, they do not call for the co-operation of the mind in 
 the direction of interest and attention, and without the 
 co-ordination of the mind the best results are not ob- 
 tained from physical exercises. In work, other than 
 mere drudgery, the interest is held, and the necessary 
 mental co-operation obtained. The same is true in the 
 case of out-of-door games. And, in walking to and 
 from a certain point, either on a visit or to make pur- 
 chases, etc., the mental interest is present; although, a 
 walk, merely as a Bet performance for exercise, is apt to 
 lack interest, and consequently benefit, the only escape 
 55 
 
being the taking of interest in the scenery, the places, 
 points of interest, and persons passed on the way. 
 
 Mental Interest in Exercise. The man who has a 
 hobby which causes him to do physical work (par- 
 ticularly in the open air) ; the man or woman who plays 
 tennis or golf; the woman who takes a hand in the house- 
 work; all these persons obtain physical exercise of a 
 quality far surpassing that obtained by the brothers 
 and sisters who perform physical "stunts" under the 
 direction of a high-priced physical culture director, as a 
 rule. The point is that Mental Interest is the leaven 
 of physical exercise, and when that leaven is missing, 
 the virtue of the exercise is largely lost. This is a 
 point better known to psychologists than to the old- 
 time physical culturist; but the up-to-date physical 
 culturist is fully aware of this fact, and works it into his 
 system of exercise with the best results. 
 
 Evolution and Exercise. The secret of the importance 
 of mental interest in exercise, is found in the history of 
 the evolution of the race. The prime reason why 
 physical exercise is necessary to the physical well-being 
 of the human race, is that for countless generations our 
 ancestors were forced to take physical exercise in their 
 everyday life, in order to maintain existence and comfort. 
 The man was forced to roam through the forests hunt- 
 ing and fishing, climbing trees, fighting wild animals, 
 escaping from pursuers, etc., and, in the course of time, 
 the habit of physical exertion was fastened on the race. 
 The women were kept very busy preparing food, scrap- 
 56 
 
ing and tanning skins of animals, grinding corn, weaving 
 baskets and cloth, and in the thousand and one details 
 of the life of the primitive woman. And, as a conse- 
 quence, the habit of physical activity was fastened on 
 the race, in the female as well as in the male line of 
 descent. 
 
 To-day, as a consequence, unless the man is actively 
 employed in muscular work in his daily occupation, he 
 suffers from physical inactivity unless he has a safety- 
 valve in the shape of hunting, fishing, walking, golf, 
 tennis, etc. And the woman who has not the advantage 
 (speaking from the physical standpoint) of doing at 
 least a portion of her own housework, suffers from 
 physical inactivity, unless she manages to obtain the 
 necessary amount of exercise in outdoor sports, walks, 
 or occupations. I am not now speaking of overwork in 
 household duties — this, alas! has broken down thousands 
 of women. I am speaking merely of a normal amount 
 of household work, which, as the best authorities now 
 hold, affords perhaps the best all-around system of ex- 
 ercise that a woman can take, for it brings into play 
 every muscle of her body, and prompts a general phys- 
 ical development. 
 
 But, here, I ask you again to note that in these prim- 
 itive exercises of the race, as well as in their modern 
 substitutes, the mind as well as the body was used and 
 exercised — the co-operation and co-ordination of the 
 mind and body was secured — the element of mental in- 
 terest was there. I am not riding a hobby, not pursuing 
 57 
 
a fad, in thus insisting upon the advantage — nay, the 
 necessity, — of this mental interest in connection with 
 physical exercise. Instead, I am stating the results of 
 the investigation and thought of some of the world's 
 greatest thinkers on the subject of health and beauty. 
 
 So, milady, do not be deluded by "systems" of 
 physical culture warranted to produce beauty for you, 
 unless the exercises are such as will gain and hold your 
 interest. If they do not do this, discard them to the 
 scrap-basket, and substitute interesting work, tasks re- 
 quiring attention and appealing to the creative instinct 
 within you, or else games in which you can take an 
 interest. 
 
 The Ideal System. A combination of interesting 
 work and interesting play is the ideal system of physical 
 culture. Blessed is the woman who can combine these 
 two in the proper proportions, and who will faithfully 
 adhere to their practice. For she will bring to her 
 cheeks the bloom of health; to her eyes the sparkle of 
 life, and to her form the beautiful lines which nature in- 
 tended to bestow upon her. 
 
 Fresh Air and Exercise. Before passing on, I wish 
 to call your attention to the fact that it is well to com- 
 bine as much fresh air as possible with your daily ex- 
 ercise work or games. If you cannot work in the open 
 air, then at least well air the house in which you are 
 working. Fresh air is one of Nature's most potent 
 tonics for the general system, and one of her most effi- 
 cient beautifiers. The race has become accustomed to 
 58 
 
fresh air, throughout countless generations, and to-day 
 the healthiest men and women are those who have the 
 advantage of fresh air and plenty of it. Get out into 
 the air as much as possible; and keep your houses well 
 aired. 
 
 I am very glad to note that the fresh air propaganda 
 is making great headway in this country. The anti- 
 quated and irrational habit of almost hermetically seal- 
 ing the houses is rapidly passing away, and the new 
 generations are insisting upon living closer to nature in 
 the matter of fresh air. Avoid stuffiness in the house 
 or room. Throw open the windows and let the light and 
 air purify the interior of your dwelling houses and offices. 
 And, get out in the air as much as you can. Get closer 
 to Nature, and she will reward you by bestowing upon 
 you the priceless treasures of health and beauty. The 
 day of the hothouse beauty is passing. And, as for the 
 "preserve-jar" woman — that poor deluded product of an 
 almost hermetically sealed existence — well, she is impos- 
 sible under the present-day standards of beauty. Like 
 other preserve-jar articles, she is placed upon the shelf. 
 
 The Vital Trio. Remember now this trio: (1) Ex- 
 ercise; (2) Mental Interest; and (3) Fresh Air. Think 
 of them, always, as belonging to each other, and en- 
 deavor to combine them whenever possible. 
 
 Dancing. Before passing on, I wish to say that I 
 
 consider rational dancing a splendid form of exercise 
 
 for any woman, young or old, thin or stout. By rational 
 
 dancing, I mean dancing in moderation and along the 
 
 59 
 
\1 
 
 lines of aesthetic movements, avoiding the fantastic 
 varieties of the dance which seem to be afflicting society 
 at this time. Oh, no, I'm not exactly a prude — but 
 there is a limit. 
 
 Dancing not only tends to exercise many of the 
 muscles of the body; to increase the lung power by use; 
 and to generally stimulate the circulation and nerve 
 power; but it also has a tendency to encourage and 
 develop grace of motion and poise, and to improve the 
 carriage — all of which are well worth while to the beauty- 
 seeker. 
 
 Delsarte Exercises. I am also in favor of the Delsarte 
 System of exercise and movements for similar reasons. 
 I believe them to contain much of great value in the 
 direction of rational exercise, besides adding the element 
 of interest and pleasure. Moreover, they certainly tend 
 toward grace, poise, and carriage. I have known Del- 
 sarte Movements in connection with correct breathing 
 to reduce many cases of over-fatness, and also to aid in 
 breaking up stubborn cases of constipation. I have 
 also known of cases of female weaknesses to be greatly im- 
 proved by the same methods. There are published a 
 number of inexpensive books on the Delsarte Move- 
 ments. Ask your bookseller about them. But don't buy 
 the books if you merely want good exercises, for I have 
 given you quite a number — and of the very best — in 
 this little book you are now reading. But Delsarte is 
 more than mere exercise — it contains the secret of Grace 
 and Poise, and is the twin sister to dancing. I merely 
 60 
 
mention this to remind you that there is such a thing 
 in the world in case you are interested in this special 
 phase of the subject. 
 
 General Directions for Calisthenic Exercises. In 
 other chapters of this book, especially in Chapters XIII 
 and XIV, respectively, I give a number of important 
 calisthenic exercises designed to reduce superfluous 
 flesh on parts of the body, and to build up solid flesh 
 when same is needed. I think it well to give at this 
 place a few general directions regarding the taking of 
 these exercises: 
 
 I. Exercises taken only "occasionally" do but 
 little good. The benefit of calisthenic exercises depends 
 materially upon regularity and systematic performance. 
 
 II. Do not get too enthusiastic, and thus overdo the 
 exercises. Too much is worse than none at all. 
 
 III. Do not carry the exercises to the point of ac- 
 tual fatigue or exhaustion. Let your own feelings be the 
 judge. From fifteen to thirty minutes at a time is 
 about the average. About twice a day, preferably 
 morning and evening, is the best rule. 
 
 IV. In exercising for developing flesh and muscle, 
 slow movements are preferred, as a rule; this is par- 
 ticularly true in the case of very thin persons. In ex- 
 ercising for reducing flesh, on the contrary, a smart, 
 brisk, vigorous movement is best, as by such movements 
 there is caused a burning-up of surplus fatty matter and 
 waste tissues of the body. 
 
 V. The same exercise which will tend to burn up 
 
 61 
 
and dissolve superfluous fat in the over-fat person will 
 also equally tend to build up sound, strong, firm flesh 
 and muscle in the over-thin person — the exercise tend- 
 ing toward the Normal Condition in both cases. 
 Remember this! 
 
 VI. Avoid exercising immediately after eating; 
 and avoid eating immediately after exercising. Give 
 Nature a chance to rest and recuperate in either case, 
 before you heap fresh work upon her. 
 
 VII. Early morning, immediately after rising; and 
 late in the evening, immediately before retiring — these 
 are the ideal times for calisthenics. 
 
 62 
 
chapter ix. 
 Breathing and Beauty. 
 
 M|p3HERE is a close connection between 
 breathing and beauty, not only be- 
 cause there is a close connection be- 
 tween correct breathing and general 
 health, but also because correct 
 i breathing specially stimulates the 
 ftU£~vj activities of the skin, and also re- 
 .,.,*,', :.& moves the waste products of the 
 *W. system; moreover, it tends to pro- 
 pi duce a general condition of well- 
 fiWEKLxzJ&Bfi roun( j e( j plumpness (not superfluous 
 fat), and to develop the chest and bust particularly. So 
 that the beauty-seeker will find it well worth while to 
 acquire the art of correct breathing. 
 
 Breathing is such a common activity, that the aver- 
 age person does not pay any attention to it, but takes it 
 as a matter of course. And yet the average person is 
 sadly deficient in breathing power and practice, and is 
 careless regarding the same. Instruction is very much 
 needed. But, before we proceed to the consideration of 
 directions regarding proper methods of breathing, let 
 me give you a brief glimpse of the work actually per- 
 63 
 
formed by the lungs in the process of breathing, and 
 what effect it has on the general system. 
 
 The Breathing Apparatus. The breathing apparatus 
 of the human being consists of a pair of lungs, and 
 the air passages connected therewith. The air is drawn 
 in through the nasal passages and other air tubes and 
 enters the lungs, where it is divided and subdivided 
 into minute particles so that it may penetrate into 
 the millions of small air cells of the lungs. Now 
 happens a peculiar thing. The blood, returning 
 through the veins, heavily laden with waste matter 
 of the system, and being of a dull, bluish color 
 because of these impurities, is forced into the lungs, and 
 is then distributed through millions of tiny hairlikc 
 blood vessels which the lungs also contain. This blood, 
 in these tiny channels, then comes in contact with the 
 tiny air cells of the lungs, filled with the fresh air which 
 has just been breathed into them. The oxygen con- 
 tained in the fresh air, coming in contact with the foul 
 blood contained in the tiny blood vessels, produces a 
 chemical combustion, the result being that the impu- 
 rities in the blood are burned up and are transformed into 
 carbonic acid gas, and then breathed out from the lungs. 
 In the process, also, the blood takes up a fresh supply of 
 oxygen, and then returns to the heart in the shape of 
 rich, red blood which is sent by the heart flowing through 
 the arteries, building up, reinvigorating, and energizing 
 the entire system. This wonderful process is performed 
 every second in the day, for every human being. With- 
 64 
 
out this process, life would be destroyed in a few mo- 
 ments, as the system would be poisoned by the failure 
 of the oxygen, and the accumulation of foul material in 
 the blood. 
 
 Breathing and Pure Blood. You need scarcely be 
 told that unless the proper amount of air reaches the 
 lungs, the full performance of its wonderful offices be- 
 comes impossible, and the blood remains in a poorly 
 nourished and imperfectly cleansed condition. Poor 
 blood must mean poor general health, and especially a 
 poor, muddy complexion, dull eyes, foul breath, etc. 
 Moreover, unless they are properly employed, the lungs 
 themselves suffer, and even consumption may result. 
 Many good authorities hold that if correct habits of 
 breathing were common, tuberculosis of the lungs would 
 be an almost unheard-of disease. Moreover, over-fat- 
 ness, resulting from a lack of proper tissue-oxidation, is 
 a direct consequence of improper breathing habits. 
 
 Nasal vs. Mouth Breathing. One of the first things 
 to learn in acquiring the habit of correct breathing, is 
 that of using the nostrils alone in the breathing process, 
 and in overcoming the common habit of mouth breath- 
 ing. Nature intends mankind to breathe through the 
 nostrils; and the habit of mouth breathing is a 
 pernicious and unnatural one. 
 
 The nostrils filter the air, relieving it of dust and 
 
 other objectionable matter; this docs not occur if the 
 
 breath passes through the mouth. Moreover, the nasal 
 
 passages warm the air, while air taken through the 
 
 65 
 
mouth may chill the air passages leading to the lungs. 
 Again, it has been held by good authorities that con- 
 tagious diseases are often contracted by the germs being 
 breathed in through the mouth ; nostril breathers run- 
 ning far less risk. Finally, disuse tends to render the 
 nostrils inactive and subject to catarrh and other simi- 
 lar diseases; besides they remain in an uncleansed con- 
 dition by reason of the failure of the normal passage of 
 air through them. When I say "nostrils," I mean not 
 only the opening in the nose, but also the nasal air pas- 
 sages leading upward and backward in the head, from 
 these openings. I strongly urge all of my readers to ac- 
 quire the art of nostril breathing, if they have lost it; 
 and to beware of mouth breathing, as something not 
 only inelegant and vulgar, but also a cause of unhealthy 
 and unbeautiful conditions. 
 
 The Three Kinds of Breathing. There are three 
 kinds of breathing practiced by the human race, 
 viz.: 
 
 (1) Clavicular Breathing. Clavicular or Collar- 
 bone Breathing, in which the air is taken only into the 
 upper higher part of the lungs, and which is accompa- 
 nied by a raising of the shoulders and collar bone, and a 
 lifting of the ribs. This is a very imperfect form of 
 breathing, as only a minimum of air is allowed to enter 
 the lungs. This form of breathing is particularly no- 
 ticeable among women, and among men of sedentary 
 habits. The average invalid uses this imperfect form of 
 breathing. 
 
 66 
 
(2) Intercostal Breathing. Intercostal or Rib 
 Breathing is better than the form just mentioned, 
 and yet is far from being complete. In it the 
 breath is taken into the center of the lungs, the chest 
 being partially expanded and the ribs being somewhat 
 raised. This form is quite common, being that used 
 by the average man or woman. 
 
 (3) Abdominal Breathing. Abdominal or Deep 
 Breathing is used by young children and many 
 vigorous men, and is favored by many of the best 
 authorities. In it the diaphragm (the large flat 
 muscle which lies at the lower part of the chest, 
 separating it from the abdomen, and acting as a lung- 
 pump) is pressed downward, pushing the abdomen 
 downward and outward, and filling the lower part 
 of the lungs. 
 
 Full Breathing. The best form of breathing, and all- 
 round form, is that known as "Full Breathing," which 
 combines all the processes of the three forms of breath- 
 ing above mentioned. The following exercise describes 
 the process: (1) Stand or sit erect, in a natural posi- 
 tion. (2) Breathe naturally and slowly into the lower 
 part of the lungs, by pushing the diaphragm downward 
 (the abdomen being forced downward and outward, of 
 course). (3) Then fill the middle part of the lungs, by 
 continuing the breath, and pushing out the lower ribs, 
 the breast bone, and chest. (4) Then fill the upper 
 chambers of the lungs, finishing the breath, and at the 
 same time lifting the upper ribs, shoulders, and collar 
 67 
 
bone, and drawing in the abdomen a little. A little 
 practice will render this exercise easy. 
 
 How to Breathe. Practice full breathing until the 
 three combined motions follow one after the other, con- 
 tinuously and not in a broken series of three. Practice, 
 practice, practice this full breathing, for it will well repay 
 you for your trouble. Take a few deep, full breaths in the 
 morning when you arise, letting the air be as fresh and 
 pure as possible. Take a few more several times during 
 the day. If you feel chilly, take a few full breaths and 
 note how the circulation is stimulated, and how com- 
 fortable you feel afterwards. This is a very fine general 
 exercise for invigorating the system, and also one of the 
 best special exercises for chest and bust development. 
 
 Breathing-in Exercising. You will find it interesting 
 and beneficial to combine full breathing with many of 
 the exercises given in other chapters of this book. In 
 such cases, you may inhale during the "lifting up" 
 motions, and exhale during the "letting go" or "bear- 
 ing down" movements. Do not hold the breath during 
 exercises, however. A better way, perhaps, is to let the 
 breathing adjust itself, naturally and instinctively, to 
 the motions of the calisthenic exercises; the only thing 
 to be remembered being to breathe fully, and not par- 
 tially. 
 
 Breathing Exercises. Many breathing exercises 
 have been given by the many writers on the subject, 
 and quite a number of these exercises are very good in- 
 deed, and repay one for following them. I do not give 
 68 
 
them here, however, for the very good reason that I 
 have given the muscular movements, which accompany 
 many of the best breathing exercises, in the portions of 
 this book devoted to reduction or development of the 
 various parts of the body. I do not wish to repeat them 
 here, simply adding the breathing instructions to each — 
 I prefer to allow you to make the combination, which 
 you are as well able to do as are many of the writers of 
 the various books and articles on the subject. For that 
 matter, however, you will find that the average exercise, 
 given by me in this book, if performed with spirit, will 
 necessitate a natural, normal full breathing, without any 
 special instructions on that phase of the subject. 
 
 A Good Suggestion. At this point, however, I wish 
 to recommend to your attention two books written by 
 Elizabeth Towne, published by the Elizabeth Towne 
 Company, Holyoke, Mass., which contain a number of 
 very important and useful breathing exercises, designed 
 for special requirements of the individual. Those who 
 are interested in this subject of breathing, and who .wish 
 to go further into it, are respectfully referred to these two 
 books, the names of which are (1) " Practical Methods 
 for Self-Development, Spiritual, Mental, Physical"; and 
 (2) "Just How to Wake the Solar Plexus," respectively. 
 
 Now, do not forget the importance of this subject of 
 correct breathing. Combine it with any or all of the 
 forms of exercises or treatments given in this book, and 
 you will give additional virtue to them, and reap 
 additional benefits therefrom. 
 
chapter x. 
 Rest and Sleep. 
 
 SHERE is an important connection 
 between sleep and rest on the one 
 hand, and health and beauty on the 
 other. Sleep and rest are required 
 by nature as a period of recupera- 
 tion and building up of material 
 used up during the hours of waking 
 activity. It is the time in which 
 nature strengthens and fortifies the 
 nervous system against the hours of 
 itfe&^sc^es&bV use an d waste. Animals, children, 
 and the primitive races of mankind, sleep as nature 
 intended, but "civilization" has done much to destroy 
 the old natural habits, and to replace them with others 
 more or less injurious. Among the worst of these 
 changes effected by modern life, those relating to the 
 times of sleep and rest are especially regrettable. 
 For instance, the best hours for sleep are those between 
 sunset and midnight, which are so often dissipated in 
 exciting social pleasures; likewise, the best hours for 
 work are the first few after sunrise, which man now 
 spends in bed. However, there is no use railing against 
 70 
 
these things; let us rather make the best of things as 
 they are. 
 
 Hours of Sleep. It is difficult to state dogmatically 
 the precise hours of sleep required by any special 
 individual. General rules may be laid down, but the 
 individual must be governed largely by his tempera- 
 ment, occupation, and other individual peculiarities. 
 Young children require nine to twelve hours' sleep, and 
 even adults suffering from a weakened or depleted 
 nervous system need almost or quite as much sleep as 
 does the child. Some adults manage to get along 
 with a very few hours of sleep, but it is dangerous for 
 the average individual to follow rules laid down by 
 these exceptional persons. As a rule, about eight hours' 
 sleep is required by the average man or woman, in 
 order to maintain the balance of the nervous system. 
 One must not burn one's candle at both ends, in the 
 matter of the dissipation of nervous energy. The loss 
 of sleep soon tells on the general health, and even 
 before that time it manifests signs on the countenance, 
 in the direction of giving a haggard appearance, causing 
 wrinkles and drawn lines on the face, besides giving to 
 the eyes a dull appearance. 
 
 At the same time, one should not argue from the 
 above that if a little sleep is a good thing, much sleep 
 is better, and very much sleep is still better. Over 
 eight hours' sleep is too much for the average person, 
 unless when suffering from nervous troubles, etc. Too 
 much sleep tends to render one sluggish, heavy, and 
 71 
 
dull, physically and mentally. Many persons who 
 think they are suffering from insufficient sleep, and 
 who go about complaining that they can scarcely keep 
 their eyes open, are really suffering from a constipated 
 colon, a torpid liver, disordered digestion, and lack of 
 proper exercise. A change in their habits of life, as 
 indicated in the foregoing chapters of this book, will 
 soon re-establish normal conditions and cause that tired 
 feeling and the heavy eyelids to disappear. 
 
 Rules of Sleeping. The rules regarding the proper 
 conditions of sleeping are few and simple. Here they 
 are in a few lines: (1) See that your room is well 
 ventilated, but arrange your bed so that you will not 
 be in a direct draft. (2) Have sufficient bed-clothing 
 to keep you comfortable, but avoid feather beds and 
 extra heavy bed-clothing, both of which belong to the 
 dark ages. Far better a hot water bottle than too 
 heavy covers. (3) Never wear at night any garments 
 that you have worn during the day, but be sure to 
 always have clean, fresh, loose nightrobes for the sleep- 
 ing hours. This last rule will seem superfluous to the 
 majority of my readers, but there are many who 
 require it, strange as it may appear in this age. (4) 
 Avoid the use of too many pillows; one small one is 
 better than many; and place the pillow under your 
 head, and not under the shoulders as so many do. 
 (5) Sleep alone, if possible; if not possible to do so, 
 try to have a bed of extra width. (6) Air the body 
 before donning the nightdress, and, if convenient and 
 72 
 
possible, give the body a "dry rub" with your bath 
 mits, or with your bare hands for that matter. This 
 plan will often induce sleep. (7) And, now, last and 
 the most important of all: Leaen to sleep like a 
 child. You naturally ask, ''How does a child sleep?" 
 or "How is this possible?" Both of which questions 
 I will answer. I ask your careful attention to this 
 answer, for it embodies the essence of true sleeping and 
 resting — it is a royal secret, which may be worth a 
 great deal to you in life, for it has meant a great deal 
 to many others who have learned the lesson. 
 
 Sleep Like a Child. The secret of the natural sleep 
 of the child, which the adult so often envies, may be 
 summed up in one word, namely: Relaxation! Did 
 you ever look at the bed in which a child has slept? If 
 so, you will have noticed that, notwithstanding the 
 comparatively light weight of the child, it will have 
 made a much deeper impression in the bed than is the 
 case with even heavy adults. The difference is caused 
 by the fact that the child relaxes completely, while the 
 average adult does not even known how to relax, much 
 less does he habitually practice it. The adult who 
 Biasti rs the art of relaxation will be able to enjoy the 
 sleep of the child. Verily, in this as in other things, 
 one must become as a little child in order to attain. 
 Let us take a little lesson in relaxation. 
 
 Relaxation. In the first place, "relaxation" means 
 "loosening, slackening," or "relieving the tension." 
 And that is just what happens when we relax. We 
 73 
 
might express the idea still more simply by thinking of 
 relaxation as "Letting go." There is mental relaxa- 
 tion, and physical relaxation, and the child practices 
 both, naturally and instinctively. 
 
 Mental Relaxation. Mental relaxation, or "letting 
 go," means that one deliberately refuses to "think 
 about things," and simply lets his mind "loaf, and 
 invite the soul." The bed is no place in which to 
 deliberate over important matters, or to solve trouble- 
 some questions. In the first place, no clear thinking is 
 ever done under such circumstances, notwithstanding 
 that it may seem as if the brain is working clearly. In 
 the second place, it unfits one for clear thinking' the 
 next day, when the real work of thinking is to be done. 
 It requires a little knack to acquire this trick of mental 
 relaxation, but once mastered it remains mastered. 
 
 The idea, carried in one's mind at such times, of 
 "Let go!" will give the mind the right suggestion, and 
 will help mightily. Think how the little child "lets 
 go" of thought when it goes to bed, and endeavor to 
 bring about in yourself the same state of mind as that 
 of the child. Picture the little child in bed, and the 
 expression of its little face, and let yourself easily act 
 out the expression and attitude, and in short, enter into 
 the spirit of the child in such a condition. If you will 
 do so, you will find yourself sinking into a delicious 
 state of lazy, relaxed drowsiness, and the first thing you 
 will know you will know nothing, for you will have 
 fallen asleep. 
 
 74 
 
Physical Relaxation. The practice of physical 
 relaxation will help you to relax mentally, in addition 
 to being a valuable acquirement in itself. The little 
 child relaxes naturally, while you have probably lost 
 the art, and must learn all over again. Well, here's for 
 the lesson: 
 
 (1) Sit down, and hold your hand in front of you, 
 about a foot or so above your lap. Then, relax the 
 tension which holds your hand there, "let go" your 
 hand, and allow it to drop limply to your lap. Sounds 
 simple, doesn't it? but yet only a few persons can per- 
 form the experiment properly at the first attempt. 
 The hand must become as "limp as a rag," and drop as 
 heavily as if it had been detached from the body. You 
 will find a natural resistance to this "letting go" on 
 the part of the hand, and you will have to repeat the 
 trial several times before you succeed. Practice it, 
 however, until you have perfectly mastered it, for it 
 will give you the key to all that follows. 
 
 (2) Hold your arm straight out from your body, 
 and then "let go," and let it become limp and drop to 
 your side as if it were lifeless. Then repeat the process 
 with the other arm. Then with both arms together. 
 
 (3) Lying down, try "letting go" your foot, 
 and then your entire leg; then both legs, etc., in 
 the same general manner as in the hand and arm 
 experiment. 
 
 (4) Sitting upright, "let go" the muscles of the 
 neck, and let the head drop limply forward. Then, 
 
 75 
 
bending a little backward, let the head droop back- 
 ward, limply. 
 
 (5) The above experiments may be extended in 
 sitting, standing, or lying down, until you have brought 
 the entire body under your control, and can cause any 
 part, or the entire body for that matter, to "let go" at 
 will. Then you will have begun to learn the art of 
 relaxation. Did you ever see a child, or an intoxicated 
 person, fall "all in a heap" by means of general relaxa- 
 tion, voluntarily or involuntarily? Try to attain the 
 same degree of relaxation, but always under control of 
 your will, of course. 
 
 Relaxation in Bed. In relaxing in bed, at night, as 
 a means of promoting a childlike sleep, first picture the 
 child as it appears after it has relaxed. Carry this 
 thought-picture in your mind, for it will aid you in 
 relaxing your own body. Then lie flat on the back, 
 and "let go" generally, until you feel limp as a dish 
 rag, and are conscious that you are resting on the bed 
 as "heavy as lead," for that is the way the child lies, 
 heavy and limp all over. The idea of relaxation may 
 be illustrated by the fact that, if you have reached the 
 right state of relaxation, you may lift one of your arms, 
 and then allow it to fall limply and heavily at your 
 side; then you may do the same with both arms; then 
 with one leg after the other; then with the trunk; then 
 with the head and neck; and, finally, you will realize 
 that your entire body is lying perfectly relaxed and 
 limp, just as does the body of the child at rest and 
 76 
 
asleep. You may turn from side to side, allowing 
 yourself to drop limp and relaxed in the next position. 
 Keep the idea of the sleeping child, and of the idea 
 "let go," in your mind, and endeavor to have your body 
 fall into the spirit of the thing. 
 
 Suggestions regarding Relaxation. Relaxation may 
 be acquired somewhat more easily, at first, if you have 
 a friend to assist you in the practices above given; 
 that is, by having the friend lift your arm from your 
 side, in which case, if you have really relaxed it, it will 
 drop limply when she releases it. The friend may try 
 lifting your limbs, head, etc., until you are sure that 
 you have acquired the perfect art of relaxation. But 
 practice is required, and it is not as easy as it sounds. 
 The muscles are rebellious, and slow to respond to a 
 complete "let go" at first, but they will soon gain 
 confidence in your will, and will begin to respond 
 properly. 
 
 When you have acquired the complete art of perfect 
 relaxation, you will not only be able to sleep perfectly, 
 but will also be able to rest in a few minutes' time, by 
 taking a little general "letting go," which will surprise 
 you by its rapid and efficient results. The Orientals 
 have long been familiar with the value of relaxation 
 and repose, and employ it far more frequently than do 
 we of the Western world with our nervous, tense 
 manners of living and carriage. If properly mastered 
 and applied, this little lesson will prove of the greatest 
 value to you in many ways. 
 77 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 AlNTI-FAT AND AlNTI-LEAIN. 
 
 1S3HE aim of every woman, of course, is 
 to conform to the normal propor- 
 tions of the ideal woman's body, as 
 determined by observations arising 
 from the consideration of many 
 thousands of women. Of course, 
 fashions change in this matter, and 
 to-day a slender, willowy form may 
 be favored; while yesterday, and, 
 probably, again to-morrow, the 
 more plump form may win approval. 
 But, change as fashion may, there is always to be found 
 a limit beyond which one is considered "fat," and 
 another below which one is considered "scrawny" or 
 "skinny," by their most intimate friends and their 
 enemies, while other observers may use other and milder 
 terms to designate a similar impression. The woman 
 who reluctantly admits that she is "growing rather 
 fleshy," as well as the one who as reluctantly admits 
 that she is "rather too slender," begins to inquire 
 anxiously for means whereby she may change her lines 
 into a closer conformity with the average normal figure. 
 She meets with much difficulty in her search, and 
 78 
 
usually spends much money and time, generally to 
 meet with disappointment in the end. In this chapter, 
 it is my purpose to present to my suffering sisters the 
 essence of the best teaching and treatment along these 
 lines. 
 
 Superfluous Fat. A certain amount of fatty tissue 
 is, of course, normal and desirable. But when the 
 deposits of fat increase too rapidly, the result is dis- 
 agreeable, unpleasant, and undesirable, from the 
 standpoint of health, convenience, or beauty. The 
 tendency to develop too much fleshy tissue is often 
 hereditary, developing in a woman after she has 
 reached the age of thirty-five years, or thereabout. 
 But, too often, it arises from improper diet, overeating, 
 lack of sufficient and proper exercise, clogged colon, 
 improper elimination, etc. 
 
 Anti-Fat Systems. Many and varied have been the 
 remedies prescribed for reducing excessive fatty tissue; 
 many the "systems" devised, published, or otherwise 
 sold to the public for the purpose; all of which have 
 more or less merit, but few of which have proved wholly 
 satisfactory to those who followed them. In order 
 that you may get a general idea of the favored treat- 
 ments, and so extract their essence, so to speak, let me 
 here give you a brief synopsis of the more celebrated 
 systems : 
 
 The Banting System. This system originated with 
 Prof. William Banting, of London, England, a number 
 of years ago. The system consisted in the main of the 
 79 
 
reduction of foods and drinks, and the total elimination 
 of the fats and carbohydrates (sugars and starches) in 
 the food. In place of the fats, sugars, and starches, 
 Banting recommended lean meats, fish, fruits, etc., in 
 moderate proportions; the reduction of liquids; and 
 the daily use of an acid drink. His theory was that by 
 reducing the fat-making foods below the actual demands 
 of the system, nature would consume the stored up 
 fatty tissue to make up the shortage. He condemned, 
 except in the most limited quantities, the use of pota- 
 toes, bread, rice, sago, tapioca, corn meal, sweet fruits, 
 sweet vegetables (such as carrots, turnips, parsnips, 
 beets, etc.), fat, butter, cream, sweet wines, and cakes 
 and pastry. He urged the use, in moderate quantities, 
 of lean meats, lean fowl, fish, eggs, green vegetables, 
 succulent fruits, etc., and brown bread instead of 
 white. 
 
 Ebstein's Method. In this formerly very popular 
 method, the general features of Banting were sup- 
 ported, with the exception that this method permitted 
 the use of fats, but entirely eliminated the sugars and 
 starches (carbohydrates). 
 
 Oertel's Method. This well-supported method was 
 designed principally for persons suffering with weak 
 hearts, etc., and dwelt (1) principally upon the reduc- 
 tion of drinks, the perspiration being increased by hot 
 baths and similar methods; (2) restricting the diet 
 almost entirely to proteids (meats, etc.), and (3) in- 
 creased exercise, particularly slow walks uphill, etc. 
 80 
 
The Schweninger System. This system, very popular 
 in Germany, in which place and elsewhere it has had 
 many distinguished patients, gives more attention to 
 individual requirements, and dwells less in generalities. 
 Its discoverer regarded excessive fat as arising from 
 abnormal habits of living, and his first step was to 
 observe the personal habits of the patient very closely, 
 and then to endeavor to correct the abnormal habits of 
 living. For instance, he found that very often, espe- 
 cially in very active stout persons, the whole trouble 
 arose from improper diet; in which case, he would 
 point out a proper dietary, and discharge the patient. 
 Again, in many cases of indolent, sluggish, slow-moving 
 stout persons, the food was all right and all that was 
 needed was exercise, which latter he promptly pre- 
 scribed, very often with great success. In a third 
 class, he found that both diet and exercise needed 
 regulation, and he acted accordingly. This last class 
 was found to be much larger than either of the first 
 two. Some of the best American systems are based 
 largely upon this last system, and follow the general 
 plan of the discoverer thereof. 
 
 The Cathett System. This system is named after its 
 srer, Dr. Wm. T. Cathell, an eminent physician 
 of Baltimore, Md., who announced the same several 
 years ago, since which time it has found great favor in 
 many quarters. It is based upon the fundamental 
 principle that there exists a natural and well-marked 
 antagonism between Kiss'mgen and Vichy waters on 
 81 
 
the one hand, and adipose tissue on the other. He 
 prescribes the alternated taking of these two mineral 
 waters, as a wonderfully efficacious cure for over-fat- 
 ness. I shall go into detail regarding the Cathell 
 system, a little later on in this chapter, for I advocate 
 its use in connection with other methods which I shall 
 mention in a moment. 
 
 Fantastic Remedies. There have been many fan- 
 tastic remedies advocated for the purpose of reducing 
 fatty tissue, the majority of which are worthless, and 
 many of which are positively harmful. Dr. Cathell 
 says on this score: "There are many well-known 
 agents that more or less effectually reduce surplus fat, 
 and also counteract its return. Among these are Iodine, 
 Bromine, Mercury, Lead, Arsenic, Liquor Potassium, 
 Lemon Juice, Sour Wines, Vinegar, Purgatives, Sweat- 
 ing, Semi-Starvation, Baths of various kinds, Smoking 
 and Chewing, Fish Diet, Bladder Wrack, Phytolacca, 
 Clulf Weed, and various quack nostrums, each of which 
 has more or less reputation for diminishing weight. 
 Some of these, when taken sparingly or for a brief 
 while, have a proper place and a useful power, but, 
 unfortunately, when used in quantities sufficiently 
 strong and long enough continued to destroy any 
 considerable quantity of fatty tissue, they likewise 
 injure other structures; they are naturally dangerous 
 to health. . . . It is also well known that while 
 affecting the fat many of these articles also act as 
 slow poisons and damage or ruin the alimentary 
 82 
 
mucous membranes and the functions of digestion, and 
 thus cause malassimilation, or malnutrition, with 
 repugnance to food. These, therefore, are all doubly 
 injurious, and if used too heroically, or continued 
 beyond a certain period, anaemia, general debility, 
 marasmus, consumption, or other fatal affections may 
 be induced." 
 
 Difficulties of the Systems. Dr. Cathell also makes 
 the following striking comment: "None but an idiot, 
 however fat, wishes to endanger his health by unwise 
 efforts to reduce it; and many overweighted persons, 
 anxious to throw off their fleshy burden, and aware of 
 the danger of using anti-fat drugs, determinately avoid 
 them, and resort to pedestrianism, bicycling, gym- 
 nastics, rowing, massage, electricity, restricted sleep, 
 thyroid extract, skimmed milk, and other popular 
 means; while a few begin a regular dietary system; 
 Banting's, Oertel's, Ebstein's, Bruen's, or others, which 
 all aim to limit the supply of the elements that form 
 fat, and to increase its reabsorption; and I am glad to 
 say, to the honor of their founders, that every dictarj' 
 system with which I am acquainted seems to be based 
 on rational principles. But ball-and-chain rules, and 
 ironclad regulations, requiring discomfort, long-suffer- 
 ing, semi-starvation, abstemious dieting, etc., no 
 difference by whom recommended, are rarely per- 
 severed with to a successful degree by persons with 
 simple over-fatness, and we rarely meet any one 
 wreathed in fat who has not begun on one or another or 
 83 
 
several different plans, and after a while become either 
 careless or disgusted, and — quit!" 
 
 In the next following chapter, I shall present to 
 your consideration a "Common-Sense Method of 
 Fat-Reduction," which I think will please you, after 
 you have read the foregoing, and know the difficulties 
 in the way. 
 
 Excessive Thinness. Leanness as well as fatness, in 
 excess, is more or less abnormal. The former, like the 
 latter, may arise from hereditary causes, or may, on 
 the contrary, come from a too active, too nervous 
 temperament; improper diet; impacted colon; im- 
 proper feeding; failure to properly masticate the food, 
 insufficient fluids, etc. The remedy, naturally, is rest 
 and sleep to correct these abnormal conditions. 
 
 How to " Take on Flesh." In other chapters of this 
 book, I have pointed out the way of the proper cleans- 
 ing of the colon; the proper mastication of food; the 
 proper amount of fluids; proper bathing; proper 
 breathing; and proper exercises; all of which are 
 designed to remove abnormal conditions, and to cause 
 one to "take on flesh," if she lacks same. A normal 
 condition of general health, arising from observance of 
 the things I have pointed out in these other chapters, 
 will almost surely result in the increase of flesh and 
 weight to the woman who follows these directions. 
 
 The "Dried-apple State." In this connection, I wish 
 again to impress upon my lean sisters the importance 
 of overcoming the "dried-apple" aspect resulting from 
 84 
 
a failure to take sufficient fluids into the system. The 
 average "thin" person will be found to be at fault in 
 this respect. Accordingly, a correction of this bad 
 habit will bring increased flesh and weight to her, 
 if she be lacking in same. I also wish to call attention 
 to the fact that proper exercise will increase the size 
 of the various parts of the body — and of the entire 
 body as well — when one is under size and under 
 weight. 
 
 Diet for Over-Thinness. Regarding the question 
 of diet for underweight persons, or those of a thin, 
 lean, scrawny figure, I would say simply this — be sure 
 to read this carefully, my thin sisters: Read carefully 
 the remarks upon the diet mentioned in connection with 
 over-fat persons, and then REVERSE THE DIREC- 
 TIONS. This is to say: Avoid the food I recommend 
 to fat folks; and partake liberally of the food I prohibit 
 to fat folks. Now you have it in a few words — in 
 a nutshell, so to speak. Profit by it. Read carefully 
 what I have to say on the subject of diet, etc., to fat 
 folks, in this and the succeeding chapters— and then 
 reverse the directions. This will give you fat-forming 
 foods, instead of lean-making foods. The things 
 that make the fat person fat, will make the lean 
 person fatter. The things that will make the fat 
 person lean, will make the lean person still leaner. 
 Therefore, O my lean sisters, look upon the fat one 
 and govern yourselves accordingly, in the matter of 
 diet. 
 
 85 
 
But let this reversing be confined to the question 
 of diet, and be sure to let it go no farther. For, 
 remember always, that in the matter of the clean colon, 
 baths, exercise, breathing, mastication, and the rest — 
 that which brings down the fat woman to normal, will 
 also bring up the thin woman to normal. 
 
 With these two rules I shall take leave of you for 
 the present, my thin sister, but in parting with you 
 I wish to leave behind a word of hope, cheer, and 
 encouragement, for in the pages of this book, you 
 will surely find that which you need; that which 
 will fill you out to a desirable degree of plumpness, 
 roundness, and general comeliness. And, finally, 
 don't forget the two rules given you just above, but fix 
 them firmly in your mind, and you will call me blessed 
 in the years to come when you are plump and round, 
 rosy and radiant! 
 
 86 
 
chapter xii. 
 
 Common-sense Method of Fat- 
 reduction. 
 
 li^iSEIl&I HE main principle underlying the 
 
 j^|j common-sense method of the reduc- 
 
 ■ j^ tion of superfluous fatty tissue is 
 
 that of restoring normal conditions; 
 
 BjS my contention being that surperfm- 
 
 w^^^|^/l ous fat is merely a symptom and a 
 
 rS^IMfi il^-v! result of certain abnormal conditions. 
 
 ," ). / I « | For this reason, a certain part of my 
 
 %i;;.' : -'/' system will be found to be practi- 
 
 . j cally identical with that advocated 
 
 1 j by me for the "putting on" of flesh, 
 
 in the case of women under weight and lacking in 
 
 plumpness. I have explained the philosophy of this, 
 
 in the preceding chapter. Correct habits of living will 
 
 result in bringing and keeping the person in a normal 
 
 condition. Consequently, the substitution of normal 
 
 conditions in the place of the abnormal ones will (1) 
 
 bring down the over-fat person to normal; and (2) 
 
 bring up the under-fat person to normal. 
 
 Only in the matter of the choice of foods is there 
 found to be an apparent exception to the above-stated 
 rule I believe, always, in a general, well-balanced diet. 
 87 
 
But, as there exists in some persons a predisposition 
 toward the rapid storing of fatty tissue; and in others a 
 predisposition toward a lack of normal storing of such 
 tissue; therefore, I believe it to be rational and scientific 
 to supply the body in each case with the food which is 
 indicated by the predisposition, that is to say, to give 
 the under-fat person an extra supply of the foods cal- 
 culated to form fat; and to withhold from the over-fat 
 person the same food, as the same is not needed in her 
 case. But, I hope never to become a "food-crank" or 
 fanatic on the subject of diet, in my consideration of the 
 subjects of over-fat and under-fat. With this under- 
 standing, let us now proceed to the consideration of 
 "The Common-Sense Method of Fat-Reduction." 
 
 A Clean Colon. In Chapter II of this book, I have 
 pointed out the fact that constipation, resulting from an 
 impacted colon, is the root of much physical evil. In 
 Chapter III, I have shown you how to uproot this source 
 of evil. The information and advice contained in the 
 two chapters just referred to are especially applicable to 
 cases of over-fat. This because unless there be perfect 
 elimination, there is apt to be an abnormal storing-up 
 of waste material, and excess reserve of fatty tissue. 
 The poison flowing from an impacted colon seems to par- 
 tially paralyze the organs of elimination, and the result 
 is often a growing habit of superfluous fat. The best 
 authorities hold that one of the first things that the over-fat 
 person should do is to secure a clean condition of the colon, 
 and then to keep up that condition. 
 
 
Water Drinking. In Chapter IV of this book, I 
 have called your attention to the matter of the impor- 
 tance of drinking enough water each day to keep the 
 processes of elimination free and natural. In this con- 
 nection I wish to puncture a prevalent error existing in 
 the minds of many persons, on the subject of water and 
 over-fat. Because it is beginning to be recognized that 
 the average thin person does not drink sufficient water, 
 many have jumped to the conclusion that the over-fat 
 person drinks too much water, and consequently many 
 have advised the over-fat person to lessen her daily 
 fluid supply. 
 
 The last-mentioned notion is a mistake. The over- 
 fat person especially requires a sufficient supply of fluids 
 to carry off the waste matter of the system and to wash 
 away the accumulating debris. The trouble is this: 
 with an imperfectly working colon, the waste matter of 
 the over-fat person is not carried off properly, and there- 
 fore the water may have, in some cases, an over-plump- 
 ing effect. But with the colon kept clear, a proper amount 
 of water will tend to carry off the waste, and thus reduce the 
 weight of the over-fat person, instead of adding to it. More- 
 over proper amounts of drinking water will tend to keep 
 the bowels moving naturally and normally, and thus remove 
 the state of constipation, which is one of the great causes of 
 over-fatness. For this reason, I earnestly advise the 
 over-fat woman to partake of the normal amount of 
 fluids each day and thus bring her system back to 
 normal conditions and functioning. The normal 
 89 
 
conditions once secured, the surplus fat begins to 
 disappear. 
 
 The Bath. In Chapters V and VI of this book, I 
 have pointed the "why" as well as the "how" of the 
 bath. This information and the accompanying advice 
 are especially needed by the over-fat woman. If any one 
 needs to promote free and natural elimination through 
 the skin, the over-fat woman is that person. The only 
 way to get rid of over-fat is to eliminate it from the 
 system, and the skin is one of the channels of elimination. 
 And the bath clears the pores and stimulates the elimi- 
 nate ve processes. Therefore, bathing forms a part of the 
 Common-Sense Method of Fat-Reduction, and must 
 not be neglected. 
 
 One famous fat-reducing system prescribes med- 
 icated hot baths taken twice a week. The medication 
 consists of one pound of common Epsom salts to each bath, 
 the water as hot as the patient can bear it, soaking for 
 fifteen minutes just before retiring. This bath might 
 be combined with other treatment. 
 
 Exercise. In Chapter VIII of this book, I have 
 pointed out the important part played by exercise in 
 the matter of physical beauty and health. And here, 
 also, the over-fat person is invited to pay strict atten- 
 tion to what has been said in that chapter, and also in 
 Chapters XIII and XIV on the subject of exercise. 
 One of the main causes of over-fat is the lack of proper 
 exercise. In fact, some of the best authorities hold 
 that, in many cases, if this defect be remedied, no other 
 treatment is necessary. 
 
 90 
 
But even in cases where there are other condi- 
 tions to be remedied, the over-fat person must exercise 
 in order to get back to normal proportions. In this 
 book we have given some valuable exercises for the 
 purpose of reducing superfluous fatty tissue, which we 
 trust will be used by those who are troubled in this way. 
 But do not forget the general advice concerning exer- 
 cise which I have given in Chapter VIII. It need 
 scarcely be added that the fat-reducing exercises given 
 in this book form a part (a very important part) in the 
 Common-Sense Method of Fat-Reduction. Therefore, 
 read very carefully what I have said on the subject in 
 the other chapters above referred to. 
 
 Breathing. The average over-fat person does not 
 breathe properly. Therefore I call the attention of such 
 to Chapter IX of this book, in which the importance of 
 correct breathing is set forth; and in which full direc- 
 tions for correct breathing are given. The over-fat per- 
 son should pay careful attention to this matter of breath- 
 ing, for it, too, forms an important part of the general 
 Common-Sense System of Fat-Reduction. In fact, the 
 best authorities hold that want of lung-expanding 
 exercise is one of the greatest causes of obesity or over- 
 fatness — as breathing promotes tissue oxidation. 
 
 Food and Diet. And now we come to a portion of 
 the system in which some very special information and 
 directions are to be given to the over-fat person, in ad- 
 dition to what I have said on the general subject of food 
 and beauty in Chapter VII of this book. Before pro- 
 91 
 
ceeding with this special advice, I ask that you turn 
 back to the preceding chapter (Chapter XI) and reread 
 what I have said there on the subject of the general re- 
 lation of food to over-fatness. Get firmly fixed in your 
 minds the general class of food which is calculated 
 to build up the fatty tissue, before we proceed to 
 details. 
 
 Let me divide up the ordinary articles of food into 
 two lists, (1) articles allowed in moderation; (2) articles 
 prohibited, as follows: 
 
 Articles Allowed. Lean meat, lean fish, eggs (ex- 
 cepting when fried), whole-wheat bread, Graham bread, 
 stale white bread, toast, vegetables (excepting white 
 potatoes, peas, beans, carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips, 
 and rice), ripe fruits (particularly those containing 
 acids), milk (half-skimmed preferably), buttermilk, 
 fruit juices (especially lemon and orange juice). 
 
 Articles Prohibited. All "rich" foods, or "fancy 
 dishes," especially those containing thick, rich gravies, 
 sauces, or dressings; white bread, biscuit, crackers 
 (except Graham); cereals; macaroni, spaghetti, etc.; 
 salmon, eels, salt fish of all kinds; fat meats (particu- 
 larly pork, sausage, etc.); veal, liver, fried eggs; white 
 potatoes, peas, beans, carrots, beets, turnips, parsnips, 
 and rice; candies, sugar, pies, confections, pastry, cakes, 
 puddings, syrups, and sweet things generally; fried 
 things, or articles containing much fat or grease — 
 avoid the "pies and fries," especially — go very slow on 
 butter and cream. 
 
 92 
 
But, finally, do not become a fanatic on the subject 
 of anti-fat diet. Use common sense. The articles pro- 
 hibited will not poison you if occasionally touched — 
 they tend to build up fatty tissue, and must be so re- 
 garded — that's all. It is all a matter of paying the 
 price of giving up, to gain. You must decide for your- 
 self the matter of whether it is worth while. I have 
 pointed out to you the kind of foods which tend to add 
 fat — it is up to you to use or not use, just as you see fit. 
 Here is the prohibited list in a few words : Fried Things, 
 Rich Things, Sweety Things, and Starchy Things 
 (the latter including white bread, potatoes, cereals, 
 etc.). 
 
 The Cathell System. In the preceding chapter, I 
 called your attention to the Cathell System, in which 
 Vichy and Kissingen waters are used in fat reduction. 
 As promised, I herewith give you a little further infor- 
 mation regarding the essence of this treatment, and the 
 way to follow it, if desired. It is highly recommended 
 by many, and has the approval of many authorities 
 in medical circles. If in doubt about it, it might be 
 well to consult your family physician, or medical 
 friend. 
 
 Directions for the Vichy-Kissingen Treatment. Dr. 
 Cathell recommends the over-fat person to drink a large 
 glass of Kissingen water twenty or thirty minutes after 
 each of the three daily meals, on the first day; then a 
 similar glass of Vichy water after each of the three 
 meals, on the second day; then, alternate the Kissingen 
 
and Vichy waters, each day for a number of weeks, or 
 even months, until the effect is most marked. 
 
 Important Note: Dr. Cathcll especially emphasizes 
 the fact that: "It is useless to take either Kissingen or 
 Vichy alone, as they act only when both are taken 
 alternately. " 
 
 Dr. Cathell gives the further directions and advice 
 in the matter: "While using the Kissingen and Vichy, 
 the person should, as a necessary guide, keep tally on 
 his girth and weight, by taking his measures and by 
 carefully weighing his body in the same clothes, and on 
 the same accurate scales, every two or three weeks; 
 and, if he has lost more than a couple of pounds for each 
 week, take a smaller glass of each at every drink; while if 
 he has lost less than a couple of pounds for each week, 
 squeeze a few teaspoonfuls of lemon juice into each glass of 
 the Kissingen to increase its acidity, and also add one 
 teaspoonful of the aromatic spirits of ammonia to each 
 glass of the Vichy to increase its alkalinity. He can 
 further aid them by using acidulous food and drinks on 
 the Kissingen clays, and avoiding them with the 
 Vichy." 
 
 Results of the Cathell Treatment. Dr. Cathell says of 
 this treatment: " If any healthy person, whether male 
 or female, weighing less than 300 pounds, with simple 
 uncomplicated over-fatness, wishing to make a fair, 
 honest , and faithful trial of my plan to diminish over-fat- 
 will follow these directions, he will begin to gradu- 
 ally lose fat, until he comes down to medium weight and 
 94 
 
stoutness, and be correspondingly relieved of the discom- 
 forts and the dangers of obesity; after which their use 
 should be discontinued.' ' And, again: "After drink- 
 ing these waters, and following these rules for a while, 
 he will find that he is losing part of his girth and a couple 
 of pounds of avoirdupois every week, and that the loss 
 consists entirely of useless fat ; and that his appearance, 
 activity, and feelings will all be improved — just as if 
 there exists some natural antagonism between these 
 waters, thus taken, and adipose tissue ; more especially 
 that located in the great fat centers already mentioned. 
 In some cases, however, the direct effect of Kissingen 
 and Vichy is more perceptible than in others, because 
 some types of fatness reduce more readily and more 
 rapidly than others. The more firm and solid the flesh, 
 and the longer one has been fat, the more slowly it yields. 
 Such a one, if quite fat, and belonging to a constitution- 
 ally fat family, with proportionately small lungs, might 
 require a persistence with Kissingen and Vichy method- 
 ically for six months or even longer, unless the ammonia 
 and lemon juice are added regularly. Ungovernable 
 appetite, failure to exercise, tippling, etc., may also 
 retard or prevent success. In some of these stubborn 
 cases, a considerable decrease of size with but little 
 lessening of weight has been observed. In addition, 
 Kissingen and Vichy not only reduce over-fatness, but 
 also tend to permanently correct the irregular and ex- 
 eessive fat-making activity on which it depends, with- 
 out injury to health. The person gradually becomes 
 
thinner, looks healthier, and feels younger and more 
 active, as his (or her) superabundance disappears. At 
 the same time, the skin being an elastic and active tissue 
 contracts correspondingly, leaving neither flabbiness nor 
 wrinkles, bagginess nor crow's feet, while brain, muscle, 
 nerve, blood, and glandular nutrition and strength, all 
 remain normal, proving that this method does not cause 
 either pathological diminution or morbid shriveling, 
 from inanition or loss of strength ; or constipation with 
 cachexy from impaired digestion, as the various anti-fat 
 blood depuratives and glandular eliminatives are noto- 
 riously apt to do. To properly appreciate this fact, it 
 must be remembered that a person in normal flesh has 
 as much blood, and usually better blood, than a similar 
 person whose weight has been ever so much increased by 
 fat; and that Kissingen and Vichy act on the fat and not 
 on either the blood, the glands, or the bowels." 
 
 Note Regarding Kissingen and Vichy. Kissingen and 
 Vichy waters may be obtained at the soda-fountain of 
 any druggist; or may be procured in bottles (citrate of 
 magnesia or ginger-ale bottles may be filled at the 
 fountain, by the druggist, for that matter) or even 
 procured in five gallon tanks for home use. Kissingen 
 and Vichy tablets are also prepared by the large manu- 
 facturing chemists, and may be procured at any drug 
 store. The majority of persons prefer taking them in 
 this form, owing to convenience, cheapness, etc. Wyeth 
 Company of Philadelphia, and Sharp & Dohme of 
 Baltimore, are among the principal manufacturers of 
 96 
 
these tablets. They are, of course, not a patent medicine, 
 but a regularly prepared, non-secret formula, medicinal 
 salt preparation, compressed into tablets. Your drug- 
 gist will inform you regarding their standing and gen- 
 eral reputation — both that of the tablets and the 
 manufacturers. 
 
 97 
 
chapter xiii. 
 Flesh-reducing Exercises. 
 
 §§N the preceding chapter, I mentioned 
 some important and effective calis- 
 thcnic exercises as calculated to aid 
 materially in the work of reducing 
 superfluous flesh. I herewith give 
 you a number of these exercises espe- 
 1 cially designed for the reduction of 
 3 superfluous flesh on the abdomen and 
 on the thighs, all of which I recom- 
 mend to you. 
 '■•■'•- '•---- ^ "•» The public has had many " sys- 
 tems" thrust upon it, consisting of directions for cal - 
 isthcnic exercises for the reduction of fatty flesh, which 
 have been given publicity by means of much advertising. 
 There have, also, been many books written on this sub- 
 ject; and many magazine articles published, likewise, 
 along the same lines. I could easily fill several books, 
 of the size of this one, with exercises of this kind. But 
 I shall refrain. I believe that the real essence of the 
 best exercises may be condensed into a few particularly 
 effective special exercises which I give you herewith: 
 Abdominal Exercise I. (1) Lie on your back, 
 holding your arms stiffly by the sides of the body and 
 98 
 
raised an inch or so from the floor so as not to touch it. 
 (2) Then, after making the legs stiff, and holding 
 them close together, raise them slowly until they assume 
 a perpendicular position, pointing straight upward; 
 then lower them slowly. Repeat several times. But 
 remember, the head is not to be lifted from the floor; 
 the arms are to be kept in the original position; and do 
 not bend the knees. 
 
 Abdominal Exercise II. (I) Assume the same 
 position as in Abdominal Exercise I. (2) Then 
 slowly raise yourself to a sitting position, but without 
 bending the knees or allowing the feet to rise from the 
 floor; then sink back to the original position. Repeat 
 several times. 
 
 This exercise will prove somewhat difficult at first, 
 but a little practice will give efficiency. It may aid 
 you, at first, to vary the exercise by allowing your palms 
 to rest on the floor, in the first position; and then using 
 them to push yourself into the sitting position. After 
 efficiency is attained in this exercise, the following vari- 
 ations may be practiced, viz.: (a) fold your arms over 
 your chest, instead of holding them by your sides, and 
 rise with them in that position; or (b) clasp your hands 
 under your neck, behind the head, and rise with them 
 in that position; or (c) extend the arms straight out, 
 over the head, so that the back of the hands rest upon 
 the floor; then rise with them in that position. An- 
 other interesting variation (d) is to finish the rising by 
 reaching out and touching the toes with the tips of the 
 99 
 
fingers. (Also see Abdominal Exercise X for an inter- 
 esting combination.) 
 
 Caution. This exercise will probably cause some 
 fatigue and slight soreness to the muscles of the abdomen, 
 at first. Therefore do not overdo it at the beginning. 
 But this will not hurt you, and is merely an indication 
 that work is being well done. The soreness will soon 
 wear off and disappear. This exercise is considered 
 the most effective one known to physical culturists, 
 for the purpose of reducing a fatty abdomen. 
 
 Abdominal Exercise III. (1) Lie flat on your 
 back, arms extended by the sides. (2) Slowly raise 
 up both legs as far as they will go, first bending the knees, 
 however. (3) Press the thighs firmly against the 
 abdomen, and hold the position for a few seconds; then 
 extend and lower the legs slowly to the first position. 
 Repeat several times. 
 
 Abdominal Exercise IV. (1) Stand erect. (2) Lift 
 your right knee, and clasping it with your hands pull 
 it up as high as you can, against your abdomen; hold in 
 that position a few seconds, and then resume first 
 position. (3) Then follow the same motions with 
 your left knee. Repeat several times with each knee, 
 alternating. 
 
 Abdominal Exercise V. (1) Lie flat on your stom- 
 ach, hands extended by the sides. (2) Resting the 
 weight on the abdomen, raise up the head and chest as 
 far as possible without undue strain; then lower to 
 original position. Repeat several times. 
 100 
 
Abdominal Exercise VI. (1) Lie flat on your 
 stomach, as in preceding exercise, keeping the chin 
 touching the floor. (2) Then, resting the weight on 
 the abdomen, keeping the legs stiffly extended, raise 
 the heels up as far as possible without undue strain. 
 (3) Then lower to original position. Repeat several 
 times. 
 
 Abdominal Exercise VII. (1) Lie flat on the 
 stomach, but with arms extended straight ahead, on 
 a line with the body. (2) Then lift the head and chest 
 upward, as far as possible without undue effort; and 
 at the same time keeping the legs stiffly extended, raise 
 the heels up as far as possible without undue effort; 
 hold position for a moment, and then lower to original 
 position. Repeat several times. This exercise is seen 
 to be a combination of the two preceding ones, with a 
 slight variation in the position of the arms. The three 
 exercises may be used as a series, with excellent results. 
 
 Abdominal Exercise VIII. (1) Stand erect, heels 
 together with arms extended straight up over the head, 
 in a line with the body, palms to the front. (2) Then, 
 keeping the arms extended in the same manner, bend 
 the body backward at the waist, the abdomen protrud- 
 ing, the body assuming a bow-like position, with the 
 arms well extended backward over the head. Avoid 
 undue effort. (3) Resume the first position. Repeat 
 several times. 
 
 Abdominal Exercise IX. Stand erect, with heels 
 together (as in last exercise), with arms extended 
 101 
 
straight up over the head, in a line with the body, 
 palms to the front. (2) Then, bend forward, from the 
 waist, keeping the legs stiff and straight without bending 
 the knees, and try to touch the ground immediately in 
 front of the toes; then rise to first position. Repeat 
 several times. 
 
 This exercise will probably prove most difficult at 
 first, and it is almost impossible for the untrained 
 person to touch the ground without bending the knees, 
 at first trial. But you will be surprised at the gradual 
 increase in your ability and flexibility; for after a few 
 days' practice you will be able to touch your finger tips 
 easily. Some find it possible, after considerable prac- 
 tice, even to place the palm of the hand flat upon the 
 ground, without bending the knees. A variation of 
 this exercise may be had, by standing "astride," the 
 feet spread out a little over two feet apart (instead of 
 the heels together), and then bending over, with knees 
 unbent and legs straight, first touching the toes of the 
 right foot and then the toes of the left, with the tips of 
 the fingers of both hands — the two hands being held 
 closely together. 
 
 Abdominal Exercise X. (1) Lie on your back on 
 the floor, with legs extended straight in front of you, 
 legs stiff, and heels well together with arms down and 
 hands touching the floor. (2) Then, resting on the 
 palms of the hands, and throwing your weight upon 
 them, raise yourself up into a slanting position, heels 
 on the floor, palms on the floor, legs and arms straight 
 102 
 
and stiff, and head inclining forward from the slanting 
 position. 
 
 Then lower self to original position, and repeat 
 several times. This exercise may be used as a variation 
 finish for Abdominal Exercise II and the two will form 
 an interesting and effective combination exercise. 
 
 An Effective System. I cannot resist the temptation 
 to call the attention of my readers to the fact that the 
 above series of ten Abdominal Exercises constitutes a 
 wonderfully effective system of reducing the superfluous 
 fat which is apt to form on the abdominal region; and 
 to generally strengthen and render firm the abdominal 
 muscles. This series gives the essence of the best meth- 
 ods of the most skilled physical culturists and specialists 
 in this particular branch of physical training, and is the 
 real working principle of many high-priced courses of 
 abdominal reduction, the simplicity of the principles 
 being disguised, in many cases, by fantastic variations 
 and flowery wording. It will be your own fault, milady 
 who wishes to reduce her abdominal dimensions, if you 
 do not accomplish your wishes with this system. But 
 remember, you must pay the price of perseverance and 
 persistence. 
 
 Hip and Thigh Reducing Exercises. The following 
 exercises are highly recommended for the purpose of 
 reducing the fatty accumulations around the hips and 
 thighs, which are so undesirable to the woman who seeks 
 B syiumel rical form. Like the foregoing, they are very 
 Simple and very effective, and require persistency and 
 103 
 
perseverance — but they will reward you for your pains, 
 and the tape measure will offer up tribute to the method, 
 if properly applied and persistently continued. 
 
 Hip-Reducing Exercises Previously Stated. Under 
 the heading of Abdominal Exercises, I have already 
 given you several exercises equally adapted to reducing 
 fat hips. In fact, these exercises combine the two 
 features of fat reducing, abdominal and hip, in about 
 an equal measure, and should be used for both. I 
 refer to the abdominal exercises in which the legs are 
 actively used, as for instance Abdominal Exercises Nos. 
 I, III, IV, VI, VIII, IX, respectively. The following 
 additional exercises are equally effective: 
 
 Hip Exercise I. (1) Stand erect, hands clasped 
 around waist-band on either side. (2) Slowly sink 
 into a position such as you would assume if you were 
 about to seat yourself on a low stool (only the stool is 
 not there, in this case), letting the knees separate and 
 spread out, but keeping the feet firmly on the ground (and 
 touching each other), with the back straight and head 
 erect. (3) Raise yourself up to your first position. 
 Repeat several times. 
 
 Hip Exercise II. (1) Stand erect, with hands 
 clasped at waist, as in preceding exercise. (2) Slowly 
 sink down to a sitting posture, as in the preceding 
 exercise, but with this difference: (a) lift your heels from 
 the ground, and rest your weight upon the balls of your 
 feet; also (b) instead of sitting on an imaginary stool, 
 let your seat sink so as to rest on your heels, which you 
 104 
 
will find possible as this exercise allows you to sink 
 much lower than did the preceding one. (3) Resume 
 first position. Repeat several times. 
 
 Hip Exercise III. (1) Stand erect, hands clasped 
 at waist, as in the preceding two exercises, but with 
 your feet about a foot or foot-and-a-half apart, heels on 
 ground. (2) Slowly sink into a "squat," such as you 
 were familiar with in childhood days. (3) Hold the 
 position a few seconds, and then resume first position. 
 Repeat several times. 
 
 Extra Suggestion. If you are sufficiently strenuous 
 to try it, you may increase the efficacy of the above 
 exercises by learning to "hop" a few inches forward 
 (while in the sitting position) in the above exercises; 
 then repeat the hop, and then again, until you can hop 
 over the length of your room. You may have some 
 little trouble in keeping your balance at first, but a 
 little practice will enable you to master it. This extra 
 strenuous addition to the hip exercises will make your 
 thighs quite tired at first, and will cause you to pant 
 for breath if you keep it up for longer than a few hops; 
 but it will do the work, and you will soon get used to it. 
 Try it, in moderation. 
 
 High Kicking Exercise. The good old-time exercise 
 of "high kicking" is an excellent one for the hips, and 
 in addition will give you a good general exercise. If 
 you do Dot care to "go the liin.it" in the direction of 
 high kicking, you may have a very excellent substitute 
 in what is known as " hand-kicking" in the gymnasiums. 
 105 
 
Hand-kicking consists of (1) standing on the left foot, 
 with the right arm extended straight in front of the 
 body, right out from the shoulder, palm downward. 
 (2) Then, raising the right foot, kick the palm of your 
 hand, without lowering the hand. You may have a 
 little difficulty at first, but you will soon be able to 
 reach the hand, and after a few days' trial will be able 
 to raise the hand still higher, and succeed. If at first 
 you do not succeed, why, just lower the hand a little, 
 and then keep on trying until you are able to reach it. 
 Then try the exercise with the left foot and hand. 
 Repeat several times, alternating between right and 
 left. 
 
 The above hip exercises will be found somewhat 
 tiring at first, and the muscles of the thigh may be sore 
 for a day or so after the first attempt. But that is a 
 good sign, so do not get discouraged, but persist. 
 
 Massage. Many have used massage treatments in 
 the reduction of superfluous flesh on the abdomen, hips, 
 calves, arms, etc., with good effect, and in fact a little 
 sensible massage will act as a valuable assistant to the 
 exercise work, in the direction named. The massage 
 movements which may be described as "kneading" 
 and "rolling" the flesh are particularly useful. A 
 good plan is to take a general, thorough massage treat- 
 ment from some skilled operator, and carefully noting 
 her movements, you may then apply to yourself such 
 of the movements as may appeal to you as helpful. 
 
 Rolling Exercise. Many favor the familiar "floor- 
 106 
 
rolling" exercise as useful in the direction of reducing 
 the extra fat of the abdomen, and hips, especially. 
 This is a simple exercise. Place a sheet on the floor, 
 to protect your clothing (but you should wear as little 
 clothing as possible during this exercise), and then 
 simply roll over and over — that's all there is 
 to it — simple, but effective. Carry the arms at the 
 sides, during the rolling process, so as to get them out 
 of the way. Turn over about twenty-five times the 
 first trial; and then gradually increase to not over one 
 hundred turns — though some say two hundred is not 
 too many, after a time. This rolling exercise increases 
 the circulation, stirs up the liver and bowels, and burns 
 up the excess fat on the abdomen and hips. But, to be 
 effective, the rolling must be regularly performed, daily, 
 and not in fitful starts and spasmodic efforts. Good, 
 solid, hard work alone will prove of any benefit in this 
 exercise. 
 
 Reducing Double Chin. Good vigorous, regular, 
 massage will do much to reduce the double chin. Some 
 advocate the wearing of chin straps or masks at night, 
 so as to induce excessive perspiration of the chin, thus 
 causing the excess fat to dissolve. A solution of 
 powered alum and Epsom salts in water applied to the 
 flesh of the double chin and neck will cause; these parts 
 to manifi I at least a temporary firmness. But, after 
 all, the besl plan is to pracl ice I he various neck exercises 
 given in the succeeding chapter (Chapter XIV) par- 
 ticularly "Neck Development Exercise III." This last 
 107 
 
mentioned neck exercise will not only develop a full, 
 firm, strong neck, but will also tend to burn up the 
 superfluous fat on the double chin, if persistently and 
 regularly practiced. 
 
 Caution. I do not advise you to practice the more 
 vigorous of the flesh-reducing exercises during the 
 menstrual period, at least at the beginning. And, I 
 do not consider it at all wise to take too vigorous 
 calisthenic exercises of any kind during pregnancy, or 
 if you have a weak heart, at least not unless with the 
 approval of your physician. I also request you to re- 
 read the close of my chapter on general exercise, for 
 suggestions regarding calisthenic exercises. 
 
 Moderation and Persistence should be your 
 watchword in all exercise. 
 
 Endurance is the natural result of repetition. 
 
 Female Troubles. These abdominal and hip exer- 
 cises used with moderation and persistence will prove 
 valuable in overcoming female troubles. Additional 
 splendid special exercises for this purpose were given 
 in PHYSICAL CULTURE magazine for May, 1913. 
 Such exercises as these, along with other practices out- 
 lined in this book, coupled with local douches for clean- 
 liness, will cure almost any case of female trouble. 
 Under such treatment, even the troubles peculiar to 
 motherhood will in most instances cease to trouble. 
 Go easy, and keep at it. Let that be your watchword. 
 
 108 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Flesh-developing Exercises. 
 
 JSSS we have stated in a preceding 
 chapter, just as superfluous flesh 
 may be got rid of by the proper 
 calisthenic exercises, so may addi- 
 tional solid flesh be taken on in 
 the same way by the woman who 
 needs filling out. The proper exer- 
 cise will cause an increase in good 
 solid flesh in the parts particularly 
 exercised. This because nature re- 
 sponds in a reaction following the 
 breaking down of tissue by exercise, and begins 
 actively to build up new solid material to replace 
 that broken down and dissolved by the work of the 
 exercise. But, of course, the exercise must not be 
 continued to the point of exhaustion or actual fatigue. 
 And, on the other hand, it is an established fact that 
 moderate exercises taken in regular succession, that is 
 daily, will do far more to build up the body than will 
 strenuous exercise taken at longer intervals. 
 
 Exercises That Work Both Ways. Strange as it 
 may appear at first, it is a fact that the same exercises 
 which tend to reduce superfluous fat on any special 
 109 
 
part of the body will also tend to build up solid flesh, 
 and thus enlarge the same part of the body when 
 the person is lacking in normal weight and measure- 
 ment. The same exercise that burns up the fat, will 
 develop solid flesh and muscle', the same exercise that 
 brings down the fat woman to normal, will bring up 
 the scrawny woman to normal. Simple but true! 
 Remember it! 
 
 Developing Hips and Thighs. In accordance with 
 the above statement of facts, I recommend for the 
 development of the thighs and hips, when the same 
 are below normal proportions, the same exercises 
 that I gave in the preceding chapter for the reduction 
 of superfluous fat on the thighs and hips. There 
 is no use in repeating the same here, but you are 
 cautioned not to underrate their importance because 
 they are merely referred to here in this connection. 
 They are the greatest normal leg developing exercise 
 known to physical culture to-day, and must not be 
 underrated. I shall now give you a few very good 
 additional exercises designed especially for the develop- 
 ment of the calves and lower leg. These are equally 
 important for the woman with legs below the normal 
 standard. 
 
 General Calf Development. The following exercises 
 are specially designed to develop the calves of the 
 legs. In this connection you must remember that 
 in the preceding chapter you have been given several 
 exercises which are very effective in the direction 
 110 
 
of developing the thighs and hips, when the same are 
 below normal proportions, while equally efficient in 
 the direction of burning up the excessive fatty ac- 
 cumulations on these parts of the body when same 
 are in excess of normal. The following exercises are 
 intended to develop particularly the calf and lower 
 portions of the leg, when same are below normal 
 proportions; but they will act in the direction of 
 reducing the fat on these portions of the leg if in 
 excess of normal. I have already pointed out the 
 cause of this twofold action of these exercises. 
 
 Calf Development Exercise I. (1) Stand erect; 
 feet close together; hands clasped at waist. (2) Rise 
 slowly on the toes without bending the knees. (3) 
 Sink slowly to first position. Repeat several times. 
 This is one of the best "calf developers" ever designed, 
 and is used by the best physical culture instructors 
 the world over. It is very effective, and its action 
 is speedily manifested. One may develop her calves, 
 very noticeably in a short time, by faithfully following 
 this exercise. It will be apt to cause a muscular 
 soreness in the calves, at first, owing to the unusual 
 use of the muscles of that part of the leg, but this 
 will soon disappear and a firm, solid, well-formed 
 calf will develop. As we have said, however, in the 
 case of an over-fat person, the surplus fat on the 
 calves will disappear, and be replaced by the firm, 
 strong, well-proportioned normal calf. 
 
 Note. The exercises for reducing the hips, given in 
 111 
 
the preceding chapter, will also work excellently in the 
 direction of developing the calf, in connection with those 
 given in the present chapter. Do not neglect to include 
 them in your system of exercises for the purpose. 
 
 Calf Development Exercise II. (1) Stand erect, 
 raised on your toes, hands clasped at waist. (2) Then 
 smartly swing the right foot backward and upward, 
 as if you were trying to "kick yourself" with your 
 heel. (With a little practice you may actually perform 
 the kicking.) (3) Assume first position; and repeat 
 with the left foot. Repeat this a number of times, 
 alternating feet — first right and then left — in quick, 
 active movement, never, however, allowing the heel 
 of either foot to sink to the floor, using only the 
 toes for support. This exercise is splendid for the 
 calves, and will also generally "limber up" the knee 
 joints. 
 
 Calf Development Exercise III. (1) Stand erect, 
 balancing on toes, hands clasped at waist. (2) 
 Then walk around the room on your toes — "tiptoe" 
 fashion — several times, in fact, until you become a 
 little tired. This is a splendid calf developer. 
 
 Calf Development Exercise IV. (1) Lie flat on the 
 back, with legs extended straight in a natural manner, 
 heels on ground and toes pointing upward. (2) Then, 
 without changing the position of the legs, point the 
 toes forward, extending them as far as they will go, 
 drawing the heels backward and upward, of course. 
 (3) Then draw back the toes toward the shin, as far 
 112 
 
as they will go, pressing the heels forward, of course. 
 Repeat a number of times. This exercise is also 
 a splendid calf developer, and will soon tire the muscles 
 of the calf, at least at first. 
 
 Calf Development Exercise V. (1) Stand erect, 
 balanced on your toes, hands clasped to your sides 
 at waist. (2) Then, without moving from your 
 original standing place, alternately raise one foot 
 and then the other, in a skipping movement, raising 
 the knee well upward, and never allowing the heels 
 to touch the floor. This exercise is something akin 
 to "tiptoe running," while standing still; or, perhaps, 
 still more like an imaginary "skipping rope" exercise 
 — a combination of the two, in fact. A little practice 
 will give you the exact idea, better than can any 
 written description. 
 
 Neck Development. The following exercises are 
 designed to develop the neck into a healthy, firm, 
 well-rounded condition; but, as before indicated, will 
 also tend to remove the superfluous fatty accumula- 
 tions around the neck region where same exist. 
 
 Neck Development Exercise I. (1) Stand erect, 
 hands clasped at waist. (2) Then bend the head 
 sideways, first to the right and then to the left. Repeat 
 a number of times. Bend the head as far as possible 
 without undue effort. 
 
 Neck Development Exercise II. (1) Stand erect, 
 hands clasped at waist. (2) Then turn the head 
 alternately slowly from right to left as far as it will 
 113 
 
go in either direction without undue effort. Repeat 
 several times. 
 
 Neck Development Exercise III. (1) Stand erect, 
 hands clasped at waist. (2) Then bend the head 
 slowly backward and forward as far as possible without 
 undue effort. Repeat several times. 
 
 Repeat all these exercises over again with muscles 
 tensed. 
 
 The above three exercises comprise the framework 
 upon which all of the more intricate and fanciful 
 "neck development systems" are built. There is 
 nothing to be gained by fanciful variations. Stick 
 to the elementary exercises above given and you 
 will reap the full benefit without having to bother 
 about a thousand-and-one minute directions. 
 
 Arm Development. The following exercises are 
 designed to develop the arm, forearm, and upper arm. 
 They, following the general rule, will also tend to re- 
 move superfluous fat from these portions of the body. 
 
 Forearm Development Exercise. (1) Stand erect, 
 hands hanging down naturally at the sides. (2) 
 Clinch the fists, tightly, very tightly and stiffen the 
 forearms. (2) Then twist both forearms, smartly, 
 the right arm to the right, and the left arm to the 
 left, as far as possible without undue effort; then re- 
 verse the motion, the right arm to the left and the left 
 arm to the right. Repeat a number of times. Then 
 hold the arms extended straight in front of you, and 
 go through the same twisting motions. Then hold 
 114 
 
the arms extended from the shoulders, sideways, 
 toward the right and left, respectively, and go through 
 the same twisting motions. 
 
 Note. It may help you to place small rolls of news- 
 paper, or similar small rolls, in the clinched fist, before 
 beginning the twisting motions, keeping the rolls there, 
 of course, during the entire exercise. This exercise will 
 prove most effective in developing the forearm, or in 
 reducing undue fat on that portion of the body. It may 
 be repeated many times during the day, if desired. It 
 will, naturally, make the muscles of the forearm some- 
 what sore at first. 
 
 There have been many exercises designed for the 
 development of the forearm, but the above is held 
 to contain the principal points of all the others besides 
 being remarkably simple and easily used; therefore, 
 we give it alone, without taking up your time and 
 attention with useless additional exercises. 
 
 Upper-arm Developing Exercise I. (1) Stand erect, 
 with clinched fists raised to the shoulders. (2) Raise 
 the arms to full length straight upwards over the 
 head. (3) Bring the arms down to original position. 
 Repeat several times. 
 
 Upper-arm Developing Exercise II. (1) Stand 
 erect, with arms extended straight out from the sides 
 at the shouldf-rs and hands open naturally with palms 
 upward. (2) Bending the arms at the elbow, slowly 
 bring the hands upward, circling toward the neck, 
 until the tips of the fingers touch the base of the neck 
 115 
 
where it joins the shoulders. (2) Then swing the arms 
 back to the original position. Repeat a number of 
 times. 
 
 Note. A more strenuous and vigorous form of this 
 exercise is obtained by tensing the arms stiffly, during 
 the exercise, so as to produce a strain or tension of the 
 muscles of the arms during the exercise. 
 
 Upper-arm Development Exercise III. (1) Stand 
 erect, with arms extended straight forward from the 
 shoulder, out in front of you; fists clinched. (2) 
 Then bring the clinched fists smartly back until they 
 strike against the shoulder in front. (3) Resume 
 original position, and repeat several times with a 
 continuous motion. 
 
 Upper-arm Development Exercise IV. (1) Stand 
 erect, with arms extended straight out from the sides, 
 at the shoulders; fists clinched. (2) Then bring 
 back the clinched fists, smartly, until they strike 
 against the top of the shoulders. (3) Resume original 
 position, and repeat several times with a continuous 
 motion. 
 
 Upper-arm Development Exercise V. (1) Stand 
 erect, with arms extended straight out from the sides, 
 at the shoulder; fists clinched. (2) Then, with each 
 arm, describe an imaginary circle upward and back- 
 ward, keeping the arms fully extended. Move slowly 
 at first, and then more rapidly. Make your circle 
 smaller at first, and then larger as the motion increases. 
 This exercise not only develops the upper arm, but 
 116 
 
also the muscles of the shoulder, and also has a decided 
 beneficial action upon the muscles of the chest; and 
 may be used to advantage in the development of 
 the bust, in connection with the exercises given in the 
 succeeding chapter. 
 
 Wrist Development Exercises. The wrists may be 
 developed by moving the hands backward and forward, 
 holding the forearm stiff. Also, by giving the hands 
 and wrists a twisting circular movement (first in one 
 direction and then in the other) holding the forearm 
 stiff during the movements. A series of more com- 
 plicated wrist movements may easily be built up 
 from these simple elementary ones — try it if you 
 wish to exercise your ingenuity — but the simple ones 
 will do the work equally well. Suit yourself. 
 
 I request that you reread the suggestions given at 
 the close of my chapter on general exercise. 
 
 117 
 
chapter xv. 
 Bust Development. 
 
 1 8 EARLY if not entirely all of the races 
 of mankind, ancient and modern, 
 
 Nj have regarded a well-developed, well- 
 9 formed, firm bust as a distinguish- 
 ing mark of womanly beauty. The 
 statuary of ancient Greece shows 
 perhaps the nearest approach to the 
 ideal in this feature that the race 
 has ever attained. It follows, there- 
 fore, that a perfect bust development 
 is the ideal of every woman who 
 seeks physical beauty — and that means, practically, 
 every woman who lives. 
 
 Building up the Bust. While it is true that a general 
 state of health may be considered as one of the pre- 
 requisites of a beautiful and well-formed bust (and I am 
 far from underrating this fact, insisting as I do on ideal 
 hygienic conditions), nevertheless, I feel justified in 
 stating that very much can be done in the direction of 
 building up and developing the bust even before per- 
 fect health is attained. That is to say, that while the 
 woman is building up her general health along the lines 
 which I have referred to in the earlier chapters of this 
 118 
 
book she may proceed even more rapidly with the 
 development of her bust, for the nerves and cells of 
 the breast are remarkably responsive to the proper 
 stimulus. 
 
 Preliminary Suggestions. I believe, however, that 
 one should begin bust development by attending to the 
 state of the colon, as stated in the earlier chapters of 
 this book. This because the impacted colon tends to 
 press upon and derange the nerve centers of the sexual 
 organism; and there being a very close coimection 
 between the feminine sexual centers and breasts, the 
 latter reflect the disturbed condition of the former. 
 Removing the cause of the disturbance results in 
 improved conditions in both sexual centers and in the 
 breasts. Do not overlook this important point, please. 
 
 Bust development may be said to consist of two 
 forms of exercises, viz. : (1) local massage, etc., and (2) 
 general calisthenics for chest development. I shall 
 present these to you in the order named. 
 
 Local Methods of Bust Development. The following 
 contains the essence of the many widely advertised and 
 highly recommended "systems" of, or "treatments" 
 for, the development of the bust: (1) Gently sponge 
 the breasts with warm water (not too hot, but just com- 
 fortably and soothingly warm), using cither a soft 
 sponge or soft cloth. This softens the parts and opens 
 the pores. (2) Then, gently massage the breasts, in a 
 circular and upward manner, viz., beginning at the lower 
 outer edge of the breast, and then working around and 
 119 
 
around, toward the nipple. Finish by a gentle thorough 
 massage of the nipple itself. You are cautioned against 
 pressing hard upon any part of the breast so as to bruise 
 it, or even to press it roughly; and especially do I warn 
 you against the practice of pinching the breasts or nip- 
 ples, which plan is advised in some of the so-called "sys- 
 tems." The mammary glands and the surrounding 
 parts are very tender, and roughness may injure them. 
 Cocoa butter or olive oil may be effectively used in this 
 massage; use same liberally. This massage treatment 
 may be given daily but do not overdo it. (3) Conclude 
 the treatment by gently dashing or spraying a little 
 cool water on the breasts, so as to firm the flesh and 
 close the pores. 
 
 The above treatment will tend to arouse the blood 
 vessels supplying the breasts; to increase the circulation 
 to the parts massaged; to stimulate the nerve supply in 
 the region of the breasts; and thus to feed and afford 
 nourishment to the glands, cells, and tissues of the bust. 
 Accordingly, it is but natural that the bust should grad- 
 ually increase in size and improve in form, for Nature's 
 plans are being followed and her pattern used in forming 
 the parts. 
 
 Flabbij Breast Treatment. The above treatment is 
 also beneficial in the case of flabby breasts, that is, in 
 breasts which have become shrunken in tissue and flesh, 
 but with the skin remaining enlarged. There is this 
 difference, however , that in this case one need not use 
 the quantity of cocoa butter or olive oil indicated in the 
 120 
 
treatment just described. This, because the main ob- 
 ject in the present case is to give increased strength to 
 the muscles, and firmness to the skin, rather than to 
 add fleshy substance. In this case, also, the entire 
 chest should be massaged and stimulated, so as to bring 
 about an equalized condition. 
 
 Firming the Breasts. It may assist you in firming 
 the breasts, to use a simple preparation, which may be 
 procured at any druggist 's and which consists of a few 
 drops of benzoin and a small quantity of powdered 
 alum mixed with a little ordinary cold cream. Use 
 this in massaging as above directed. 
 
 Simple Hints in Bust Development. You will find 
 that exercise in full breathing, mentioned in a preceding 
 chapter, will do much to develop the breasts and general 
 region of the bust. The "full breath," or breathing 
 from all the parts of the lungs, practiced a few minutes 
 every day, will do much for you in this direction. 
 
 You must also not forget that a proper position of 
 the chest in walking, standing, and sitting will assist in 
 giving you the appearance of a full and firm bust and 
 will moreover tend to develop the chest region. The 
 chin up; the abdomen drawn in; and the chest well for- 
 ward and slightly upward — this is the correct position. 
 Practice it, and make it your own! 
 
 General Exercises for Bust Development. I now pre- 
 sent to your attention the following general calisthenic 
 exercises designed to develop the chest and bust, all of 
 which are well recommended, and some of which have 
 121 
 
also formed the basis of some celebrated "systems," 
 although not originating with their founders. 
 
 Bust Development Exercise I. (1) Stand erect, with 
 arms hanging naturally from the sides. (2) Raise the 
 arms from the sides to a horizontal position, when they 
 will extend at full length on each side with the palms 
 downward. (3) Raise arms from side with a circular 
 movement over the head, bending the forearm so that 
 the tips of the fingers meet and touch over the top of 
 the forehead, with elbows well pressed backward (thumbs 
 of hands pointing to the rear, of course). (4) Extend 
 arms upward at full length, holding them apart, with 
 palms facing each other. (5) Force the arms backward 
 in an oblique direction, and, holding them well pressed 
 back, gradually lower them to the sides, and resume 
 first position. These motions must form a continuous 
 motion, and not a series of disjointed ones. Remember 
 the importance of keeping the elbows well pressed back, 
 in the fourth motion; and the forcing and pressing back 
 of the arms in the fifth motion. Repeat several times. 
 
 The "Setting-up Drill." The above exercise is the 
 celebrated "First Exercise" of the "Setting-up Drill" 
 of the United States Army, and is one of the best ever 
 devised for the purpose of developing the chest muscles 
 so that they may present a well-rounded surface, and 
 at the same time throwing the shoulders back so that 
 the chest will assume a full appearance. It has been 
 recently discovered to be especially efficacious in the 
 case of the bust development of women, and bids fair to 
 122 
 
prove as popular with them for this purpose as it has for 
 many years proved with the men who wish to acquire 
 the military shoulder carriage and the prominent, well- 
 rounded chest. It may seem a little complicated at 
 first trial, but a little careful rehearsal will soon make 
 3 r ou proficient in its use. Once acquired, it will never 
 be forgotten, and will prove a favorite exercise. 
 
 Bust Development Exercise II. (1) Stand erect, 
 with arms extended straight in front of the body, palms 
 touching. (2) Swing the hands, vigorously, to the rear, 
 letting them drop a trifle downward during the back- 
 ward swing, at the same time rising on the toes, with 
 heels off the ground. Repeat several times. This is a 
 vigorous, sprightly exercise, and you must throw your 
 spirit into it to make it effective. It is a wonderful 
 chest expander and developer. 
 
 Bust Development Exercise HI. (1) Stand erect, 
 with arms hanging naturally from sides. (2) Clinch 
 the fists and make the arms tense, and then quickly 
 raise the hands straight up from the side, until they are 
 extended straight above the head. Return to first 
 position, and repeat several times. 
 
 Bust Development Exercise IV. (1) Stand in front 
 of an open door frame, on the side away from the one 
 on which the door swings outward; your feet about one 
 foot back of the door frame, and your arms ex- 
 tended straight forward from the shoulders, your 
 open palms pressing against the sides of the 
 door frame, a little below the height of your 
 123 
 
shoulder (about on a level with your breasts). (2) 
 Then, keeping your hands and feet in the same position, 
 slowly swing the upper part of your body through the 
 open door frame until your shoulders are well pressed 
 backward, and you can feel the pressure on your 
 shoulders and chest muscles. (3) Then slowly press 
 yourself back, with your arms, until you resume the 
 first position. Repeat several times, slowly. You 
 will be delighted with the buoyant feeling that will 
 result from this exercise, if correctly practiced, and 
 with the "feel" of your well-pressed-back shoulders, 
 and your rounded and projecting chest and bust, which 
 will result. This is a valuable corrective to the droop- 
 ing shoulders and curved chest resulting from stooping 
 over your work, the sewing-machine, typewriter, desk, 
 or dishpan. 
 
 Walking, Sitting, Standing. Do not forget to sit, 
 walk, and stand with chest well to the front, shoulders 
 thrown back, and abdomen drawn in. Practice the 
 breathing exercises given in a preceding chapter. All 
 of these things help materially in the work of develop- 
 ing the bust. You can have a well-developed, well- 
 rounded, firm bust — but you must work for it. And 
 remember this, that everything you do in the way of 
 rational development exercise for the increase in bust 
 measurement will also result in improved conditions of 
 general health. Is this not worth while? 
 
 124 
 
chapter xvi. 
 The Skin. 
 
 S8N Chapter V of this book, I have 
 given you a brief description of the 
 structure and functions of the skin 
 and shall therefore not mention the 
 same further in this chapter, but 
 shall at once proceed to the con- 
 sideration of the hygiene of the skin. 
 It may be well for you to refer to 
 Chapter V for the purpose of 
 refreshing your mind on this sub- 
 ject, before proceeding further with 
 the present chapter. 
 
 Skin Health. As I have indicated in the preceding 
 chapters, as I proceed with my story of general beauty, 
 the skin depends for its healthy condition upon the 
 normal functioning of the general system; therefore, 
 anything creating abnormal conditions of any of the 
 other parts of the system is sure to adversely affect the 
 beauty of the skin. For this reason, especially, I have 
 laid great stress upon the subjects of the clean colon, 
 water drinking, bathing, diet, sleep, exercise, rest, breath- 
 ing, etc. I may, then, sum up the prime requisites for 
 a healthy, beautiful skin as follows: Cleanliness, and 
 125 
 
the observance of the hygienic principles laid down in 
 the book for the general welfare of the body. 
 
 But there are certain special disturbances peculiar 
 to the skin, which we must consider as we proceed. A 
 little common-sense treatment will relieve the majority 
 of these troubles. 
 
 Chapped Skin. The condition generally known as 
 "chapping" is usually the result of exposure in cold 
 weather. Chapping may be explained in a few words, 
 i.e., as an abnormal dryness of the skin which permits 
 cracking of the surface. In winter, the oil of the skin 
 is not so much in evidence and the skin is apt to suffer 
 by reason of this condition. Chapping may be pre- 
 vented by avoiding too great exposure of the 
 skin to the cold air, particularly after washing — 
 although a careful drying of the skin will reduce 
 the chances of chapping, even in such cases. The 
 use of too strong soap sometimes causes chapping. 
 A little good cold cream, carefully applied, will do 
 much to save the skin from chapping, and, likewise 
 an application of cold cream at night will tend to 
 heal the chapped places. Anything that will supply 
 oil to the skin, which it needs at this time, will tend 
 to prevent or cure the chapped condition. 
 
 Chafed Skin. Chafing frequently occurs in the 
 portions of the skin in which one part rubs against an- 
 other, in the folds and creases especially. Friction of 
 the clothing also is a cause of the same trouble. The 
 treatment is simple, viz., keeping the affected parts 
 126 
 
carefully cleaned and powdered. Soap and water 
 should be used, the soap being well rinsed off, and the 
 skin well dried. In very troublesome cases a little 
 diluted alcohol may be used as an antiseptic. After 
 bathing the affected parts carefully dust them with 
 ordinary talcum powder, or powdered boracic acid, or 
 better still, with a mixture of both of these powders. 
 
 Sunburn, Freckles, and Tan. Sunburn, freckles, 
 and tan arise from undue exposure to the sun of course. 
 The sunburn proper arises from the irritating qualities 
 of certain rays of the sun 's light, and not from its heat 
 as is generally supposed. The inflamed condition is 
 usually followed by a tanning process, which is nature 's 
 effort to render the skin immune from further sunburn. 
 Freckles are simply the result of an uneven tanning of 
 the skin, resulting from the peculiar distribution of 
 pigment cells. 
 
 How to Cure Sunburn. Sunburn is treated by mild, 
 cooling, soothing applications, such as mild glycerine 
 and rosewater lotions, or glycerine and witch-hazel, or 
 a mild solution of alcohol and water. A little powder 
 dusted on after the other remedies have been applied 
 will be found pleasant and beneficial. Some prefer the 
 use of a little cold cream as a comfortable, protecting 
 covering of the burnt skin. The use of a good cold 
 cream, followed by a good toilet powder dusting, will 
 often prevent sunburn. 
 
 How to Cure Tan and Freckles. Tan and freckles 
 are somewhat difficult to remove without danger of in- 
 127 
 
jury to the skin. The majority of the freckle removers 
 sold by the druggists contain mercury in some form, or 
 strong corrosive substances which may severely irritate 
 sensitive skins. I caution my readers against using 
 these dangerous preparations. Many have had great 
 success in the use of lemon juice in this comiection; the 
 acid in the lemon juice causing the skin to scale off and 
 take with it the freckle or tan. Peroxide of hydrogen 
 solution, used to sponge the face after a careful washing 
 with hot water and soap, is held by many to work very 
 well. Others use a weak solution of ammonia, applied 
 by sponging, but this sometimes proves irritating to 
 tender skins and should be used very carefully if at all. 
 Some combine the peroxide and ammonia, in equal 
 parts. 
 
 Liver Spots or Moth Patches. These terms are com- 
 monly applied to those annoying spots or patches which 
 appear on the skin, particularly on the face and hands. 
 Women are especially subject to them, and those of 
 dark colored skin seem particularly liable to their occur- 
 rence. Medical science does not as yet thoroughly 
 understand the exact cause of these spots or patches, 
 but the old idea of their being caused by the liver is now 
 discarded. However, keeping the stomach, liver, and, 
 particularly, the colon, in normal condition, is believed 
 to prevent or cure this trouble in most cases. The 
 mercury ointments are frequently used for these spots, 
 but with the danger of burning the skin as above 
 mentioned. The milder methods are those above sug- 
 128 
 
gested for the removal of freckles and tan. The 
 peroxide-ammonia solution is especially favored by- 
 many in this connection, used carefully and applied 
 by sponging. 
 
 Warts and Moles. I should advise that the physi- 
 cian be consulted regarding the removal of moles and 
 warts, as much trouble arises at times from amateur 
 surgery in such cases. It is always well to be on the 
 safe side in such cases, especially as the chemicals used 
 to eradicate warts and moles happen to be particularly 
 strong and dangerous in unskilled hands. 
 
 Ringworm. This annoying but rather uncommon 
 trouble is usually treated by an application of tincture 
 of iodine, applied with a camel's-hair brush. But even 
 this remedy must be used carefully and not too often, 
 and it would be better to have it applied by a 
 physician. 
 
 Blackheads. This annoying skin complaint is not 
 caused by tiny worms, as many imagine, but by fatty, 
 sweaty, waste matter retained in large inactive pores of 
 the skin. The treatment for blackheads consists in a 
 vigorous washing or scrubbing of the affected portions 
 of the skin, using hot water and a good soap. In the 
 majority of cases the skin in which the blackheads arc 
 located is apt to be quite oily or grcas}', so there is 
 little danger of chapping. The use of sponge appli- 
 cations of diluted alcohol to the affected part is held to 
 be beneficial. Steaming the face is also favored by 
 many, but this should not OD any account be resorted 
 120 
 
to habitually. (See Chapter XVII for directions for 
 face steaming.) 
 
 After the skin has been cleansed and softened by 
 following the above described treatments the black- 
 heads should be removed. Some use the fingers for 
 this purpose, while others prefer one of the several 
 little instruments sold by druggists for the purpose. 
 The old-fashioned watch-key pressed around the black- 
 head, so that the latter may be squeezed into the hole 
 of the key, is about as good as any of the "bought" 
 appliances for that purpose. When the blackhead 
 comes out apply peroxide of hydrogen to the spot; and 
 use the same liquid on the face after the process is com-, 
 pleted Cleanse the extracting implement with the 
 peroxide both before and after using, to render it anti- 
 septic. 
 
 Whiteheads. This term is commonly applied to 
 milium or small whitish pimples, which sometimes form 
 around the upper part of the cheeks, just below the eyes. 
 They are really blackheads without the outside dirt, 
 and should be treated in a similar manner so far as the 
 sponging is concerned. Their removal, however, is 
 best effected by using a sterilized needle to prick the 
 surface, after which the white substance may be care- 
 fully squeezed out. Be sure to apply a little peroxide 
 to the spot before and after the operation. 
 
 Dry Skin. There is frequently met with a condition 
 of dry, scaly surface of the skin, which is usually due to 
 incorrect habits of living, such as improper eating, lack 
 130 
 
 
of exercise, impacted colon, etc. Removing the cause 
 of course removes the trouble itself, so I must refer you 
 back to my chapters on these subjects in other parts of 
 this book. In addition, facial massage and the careful 
 use of some good facial cream will do much to aid the 
 cure. A mixture of glycerine and rosewater is helpful 
 in such cases, and is agreeable to use. Avoid all skin- 
 drying substances, such as ammonia, borax, etc., if you 
 are troubled with a dry, scaly skin. 
 
 Greasy Skin. Directly opposed to the dry-skin con- 
 dition just mentioned there occurs in some persons a 
 condition of over-oily or over-greasy surface of the skin 
 which arises from an extra-active condition of cer- 
 tain glands of the skin. This condition is very often 
 accompanied by enlarged pores of the skin. It very 
 often arises from or at least is accentuated by an 
 impacted colon, a torpid liver, and indigestion, hence 
 removing these causes tends to cure the condition of the 
 skin mentioned. This condition of the skin is often 
 accompanied by blackheads and the general scrubbing 
 treatment suggested for blackheads will also prove 
 useful. Avoid the use of greasy creams, when the skin 
 is in this condition, but apply boracic acid solution, 
 alcohol solutions, and, occasionally, a little astringent 
 wash such as a solution of alum, etc. 
 
 Red Nose. This condition of the skin of the nose 
 
 generally arises from disturbances of the digestion, 
 
 impacted colon, etc., and the first treatment should be 
 
 directed toward the restoration of normal functioning 
 
 131 
 
of those parts of the body which are not doing their work 
 properly. Local treatment consists of nasal douches of 
 warm salt water night and morning. A little boracic 
 acid dusted over the freshly cleansed nose before retir- 
 ing is also recommended by some authorities. In 
 aggravated cases it may be well to seek medical advice 
 and treatment. 
 
 Pimples. This condition is one of the most annoy- 
 ing to the woman who is afflicted with it. It is par- 
 ticularly troublesome to young women and girls in 
 their teens. It arises, often, from disturbances of the 
 digestive sj-stem and in many cases is aggravated by 
 the existence of an impacted colon. The general 
 health directions given by me in the earlier chapters 
 of this book will do much to remove the cause of 
 this annoying trouble. Restoring normal elimination 
 through the bowels by correcting the constipated colon 
 and drinking sufficient water, bathing and exercise, 
 accompanied by correct breathing, will cause a speedy 
 improvement and even cure in most cases. 
 
 Local Treatment for Pimples. Local treatment of 
 ordinary pimples, or acne, consists of the careful cleans- 
 ing of the skin, as indicated in the treatment for black- 
 heads. Be careful to remove all blackheads, as these 
 tend to irritate the skin and to bring on more pimples. 
 In fact by many authorities blackheads are regarded 
 as one of the active causes of pimples. The use of 
 "green soap" is especially useful in this complaint, as 
 it has a tendency to remove the greasy deposits and 
 132 
 
 
seal}" skin. "Green soap" may be obtained from any 
 druggist at a moderate cost; some prefer tincture of 
 green soap, to the soap itself. Green soap (which is 
 really of an amber color, and not green at all) is a soft 
 alkaline soap, too strong and irritating to be used indis- 
 criminately, and never to be used on a too dry skin. 
 
 Removing the Pus. When pus forms in the pimples, 
 it is well to open the pimple carefully, using a sterilized 
 needle, and then gently press out the matter. Be sure 
 to put a little alcohol or peroxide on the spot after 
 removing the pus. The needle may be sterilized by 
 dipping it in alcohol or peroxide. It is also better to 
 wet the spot with a little alcohol or peroxide before 
 puncturing the pimple. Remove the pus with a bit of 
 absorbent cotton which has previously been dipped in 
 a little alcohol. These precautions should always be 
 taken as they will obviate the danger of infection. 
 
 Steaming by applying hot-water cloths to the 
 affected skin, followed by cold water rinsings, will often 
 prove quite beneficial in cases of pimples. But do not 
 make a habit of steaming or heating the skin, lest the 
 pores become habitually distended and coarse. 
 
 Eczema. This is a most disagreeable skin disease 
 and one most difficult to treat effectively. Those 
 seriously afflicted by it should not attempt self-treat- 
 ment beyond observing the ordinary care of the skin, 
 but should consult a reliable physician and be governed > 
 by his advice. ^ 
 
 Cold Sores and Fever Blisters. A simple treatment 
 133 
 
for this bothersome complaint is the application of 
 spirits of camphor or peroxide of hydrogen frequently 
 to the sore spot, to check the progress of the sore. 
 Dabbling the incipient cold sore with peroxide or 
 camphor or alum every half hour or so for the first half 
 day will check its spread. After the sores have 
 "broken" or become torn or open, it is well to apply 
 some antiseptic solution such as peroxide of hydrogen 
 several times a day. Borated vaseline, or a com- 
 bination of powdered boracic acid and ordinary vase- 
 line, is also recommended by many in this connection. 
 The appearance of a cold sore should be the signal 
 for an immediate clearing and cleansing of the colon 
 and a reduction in the quantity of food taken. 
 
 134 
 
CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 The Face, Neck, and Hands. 
 
 RARING for the Face. The first and 
 principal step in the proper care of the 
 face is to keep it in a clean condition 
 by proper and sufficient washing. I 
 regret to say that there have been and 
 may still be, teachers of beauty-culture 
 who instruct their pupils to beware of 
 washing the face, for fear of injury to 
 the skin. This is rank nonsense, de- 
 rided by all the best authorities. The 
 skin of the face requires washing, and 
 frequent washing at that. Oils and creams alone can- 
 not, and do not, keep the face clean, and the conse- 
 quence of their use in place of water results in a deposit 
 of dirt, grease, and oil on the skin which is far from 
 being healthy or beautiful. 
 
 Washing the Face. The face should be washed 
 with warm water, using only good soap. Use a good 
 crash washcloth. It is a good plan to give the face a 
 good, careful washing at night, just before retiring, 
 taking the necessary time for the task; then in the 
 morning a warm water bathing followed by cold water 
 rinsing will be all that is necessary, a second scrubbing 
 135 
 
with soap not being necessary at that time. Several 
 rinsings each day with cool water, and one good real 
 washing with washcloth, soap, and hot water, will be 
 all that the average face needs, although there may be 
 conditions and surroundings that render extra wash- 
 ings advisable. 
 
 Cold Cream Treatment. If the skin of the face is 
 extremely dry, and lacking in the natural oils, it may 
 be well to give the face an occasional treatment of 
 good cold cream, say once or twice a week, massaging 
 the cream well into the skin. This treatment should 
 follow after the face has been thoroughly washed with 
 soap and warm water; and should also be followed by 
 a similar face washing and cold water rinsing. 
 
 The moderate use of some plain, simple, good 
 powder, such as talcum powder, etc., does no harm, and 
 often serves a good purpose in protecting the face. But 
 the daily use of fat creams and ointments, followed by 
 a thick coating or plastering of powder, is sure to result 
 in clogging the skin, the results being an unpleasant 
 sight to persons of taste and refinement. 
 
 Choice of Soaps. Use the best white castile soap, or 
 select some good standard toilet soap, and do not be 
 deluded by fancy wrappers, perfumed soaps, or 
 "patent" soaps claimed to have great medicinal prop- 
 erties. The well-known English "Pear's Soap" is 
 good though rather drying to the skin; and so is the 
 plain, well-known American "Ivory Soap," among 
 others. Make your own choice, selecting some good 
 136 
 
 
standard brand, and remembering that you are not 
 buying a medicine chest, nor a perfumery outfit, but 
 simply a good, safe, cleansing material. We have 
 mentioned "green soap" in the preceding chapter — it 
 has its proper place and use, but is not intended as an 
 everyday soap for the toilet. 
 
 Choice of Face Powders. The right kinds of face 
 powders serve the purpose of protecting the skin, 
 besides the better-known office of "beautifying." 
 Properly used, they are commendable ; but abused they 
 are deplorable. I caution you especially against face 
 powders belonging to the general class of "cosmetic 
 powders," and sold as having great virtues in improv- 
 ing the skin. Many of these powders contain lead or 
 bismuth, both of which are injurious to the skin. Be- 
 ware also of combinations of oily creams and powder, 
 as such tend to clog the pores and to produce blackheads 
 and similar troubles, even pimples sometimes resulting 
 from their use. 
 
 The simple, harmless toilet powders are composed 
 principally of talcum, starch, or rice powder. You may 
 prepare these powders yourself, if you wish, from 
 materials obtained from your druggist. You may also 
 perfume them to suit your taste. Finely powdered 
 starch or rice powder is the lightest and Least perceptible, 
 but they ha-ve the tendency to spoil if allowed to be- 
 comedampor moist. Talcum is the best all-around 
 substance for the toilet powder as it is not affected by 
 moisture, and always remains the same. A little 
 137 
 
powdered boracic acid makes an excellent addition to 
 the ordinary talcum powder. Here is the formula: 
 one tenth powdered boracic acid to nine tenths talcum 
 powder; perfume to suit your taste, a few drops of 
 extract of violets usually being used. 
 
 Face Creams. Face creams, used properly, have 
 their place and use. It is only the abuse of these 
 articles that is to be condemned. We have seen that 
 nature normally supplies a certain amount of oil to the 
 skin, in order to keep it soft and pliable, and to prevent 
 cracking or scaling. If, as often happens, the supply 
 of oil is scant, then we may profitably aid nature by 
 supplying some pure, harmless oil in small quantities. 
 The very dry skin generally needs a little extra oil in 
 the shape of a face cream; the very oily skin, not so 
 often. The great mistake, however, in the use of face 
 creams is that of allowing them to remain on the face, 
 where they become mixed with dirt, and a clogged 
 condition of the pores results. Face creams should be 
 removed from the surface of the face after first being 
 well rubbed into the skin. 
 
 I do not approve of the daily application of face 
 creams; once a week is sufficient in the average case. 
 The best face cream is some good cold cream made by 
 some reputable manufacturer, avoiding all fanciful prep- 
 arations and so-called "medicinal creams." Equally 
 good is -pure olive oil, however, perhaps better. Be sure 
 to get pure, fresh cold cream, and do not use it if it 
 seems to be rancid. It is well to add a little powdered 
 138 
 
boracic acid to the cold cream. Some favor the use of 
 vaseline. In this connection, I would say that the best 
 authorities generally agree that the common belief that 
 oily creams, and particularly vaseline, tend to promote 
 the growth of hair on the face, is a popular superstition 
 having no warrant of truth behind it. But the average 
 woman will not be convinced on this score, so I shall 
 not press the matter. If these things would make hair 
 grow they would have an enormous sale as efficient 
 hair-restorers, for the want of which the drug trade has 
 been clamoring for years. However — well, what's the 
 use of talking? 
 
 Antiseptics. I have spoken several times of using 
 antiseptic solutions in connection with treatment of 
 the skin. The office of an antiseptic is to destroy germs 
 and thus prevent infection. Soap and water act as an 
 antiseptic. Alcohol is an excellent antiseptic and one 
 having many uses on the toilet table and around the 
 house. The same is true of peroxide of hydrogen, 
 another good antiseptic for ordinary purposes. Bo- 
 racic (or boric) acid, either in powdered form or dis- 
 solved in water, is a good thing to have around the 
 toilet table, for it has antiseptic properties and is a 
 useful remedy. I have mentioned it many times in 
 this book. Always apply antiseptics to wounds, cuts, 
 or scratches of the skin, also to opened pimples, etc. 
 
 Face Steaming. Many favor the steaming of the 
 face as a valuable aid to the complexion. In modera- 
 tion it is well worth trying, but always avoid making a 
 139 
 
habit of anything of this kind. Face steaming is 
 applied by holding the face closely over a bowl or basin 
 of steaming hot water, the steam being allowed to 
 ascend to the face via a curled stiff towel, napkin, or 
 funnel of paper. Do not run the risk of scalding the 
 face, however, by using too hot water. Perspiration 
 will soon begin to flow profusely, which is a sign that 
 the work is being done, and that it is time to get ready 
 to stop, as you do not wish to parboil your face. After 
 the steaming, dry the face with soft towels or cloths, 
 and apply a little cold cream, which may be allowed to 
 remain a little time, after which it should be washed off, 
 rinsed with cold water, and wiped gently. Then a 
 little toilet powder may be used. Steaming opens the 
 pores and relaxes; the cold water is tonic and contracts 
 the pores to the normal. 
 
 Facial Massage. This form of treatment has many 
 advocates who claim for it great virtues in the direction 
 of generally toning up the skin, removing wrinkles, 
 curing flabby conditions, removing fatty accumulations 
 under the skin, etc. A little olive oil, almond oil, or 
 melted cocoanut oil may be used to advantage in facial 
 massage, that the fingers may easily pass over the face 
 without too much friction. The following directions 
 will give a good idea of a general facial massage, as 
 practiced by a good operator: 
 
 Directions for Facial Massage. (1) First apply hot 
 water towels to the face, to cleanse and soften it and 
 thus prepare it for the coming massage. It is better to 
 140 
 
use two towels in this process — one left soaking in the 
 hot water, while the other is on the face. When the one 
 towel loses its heat, place it in the water and apply the 
 fresh one. Continue until each towel has been used 
 several times. Then thoroughly dry the face by "mop- 
 ping" it with a soft towel, instead of rubbing it. 
 
 (2) Then apply a small quantity of pure almond oil, 
 or pure olive oil, to the inner side of the fingers and palm 
 of the hand. Do not use too much oil — a mere trace is 
 all that is necessary, for the oil is used merely to allow 
 the hand to glide easily over the face without friction. 
 
 Cheek Massage. (3) Then massage the cheeks, 
 beginning about the chin, and proceeding upward with 
 your massage movements. After several movements 
 in this direction change the motion and proceed to 
 make a series of spiral movements on the cheeks, the 
 series of spirals being made in an upward direction. 
 If your cheeks are too fat, give the cheeks a good, 
 vigorous, thorough massage, using no cream or anything 
 of a nourishing nature; this form of massage will tend 
 to reduce the fat of the cheeks. If, on the contrary, 
 your cheeks are sunken, thin, and generally lacking in 
 plumpness, an opposite course must be pursued, namely, 
 a nourishing skin food must be used, and well rubbed 
 in. Pure cocoa butter is the best thing for this purpose. 
 
 Forehead and Temple Massage. (4) Then proceed 
 
 to massage the forehead and temples, moving the hands 
 
 always from the center of the forehead over the root 
 
 of the nose, toward the upper part of the temples; never 
 
 141 
 
moving the hands downward or from the temples 
 inward. In forehead massage, first make the straight 
 movement, in the direction stated, and then follow up 
 with the series of spiral movements. After finishing 
 the forehead, give the temples a little special circular 
 massage, or spiral movements. 
 
 Chin Massage. (5) Then proceed to massage the 
 chin in the same manner, first straight movements and 
 then spiral, proceeding from the lower middle of the 
 chin, and working backward and upward. If the chin 
 is sunken, or lacking in plumpness, you may use a little 
 cocoa butter, as before mentioned ; but if the chin is too 
 fat, use vigorous, thorough movements to burn up the 
 fatty tissue, avoiding the use of the cocoa butter. 
 
 Under-Eyes Massage. (6) Then massage under the 
 eyes, as mentioned in Chapter XX of this book, in 
 which the eyes are specially considered. 
 
 Ear Massage. (7) Then give the ears a little gentle 
 massage treatment, passing gently behind them, in a 
 downward direction, and then gently massaging the 
 inner surface and cavities with the tips of the fingers. 
 In ear massage avoid upward movements, or those push- 
 ing the ear away from the head. On the contrary, the 
 ear should be pressed toward the head, and the move- 
 ments of the fingers should be downward. 
 
 Mouth Massage. (8) Then proceed to massage the 
 
 mouth and lips, always stroking inward toward the 
 
 center; except in cases of too prominent lips, when 
 
 the movements should be outward from the center. 
 
 142 
 
Nose Massage. (9) Then give the nose a little mas- 
 sage treatment, preferably by a series of small spirals, 
 upward toward the eye, taking care, at the beginning, to 
 thoroughly clean out the little creases at the base of the 
 nose, where grease often collects and blackheads form. 
 
 Neck Massage. (10) Then finish with a thorough 
 massage of the neck, which is given thoroughly and 
 carefully, from the lower front of the neck, working in 
 spirals upwards and backwards toward the ears. In 
 case of scrawny neck, use the cocoa butter liberally; 
 while if there is too much fat on the neck, omit the 
 nourishing cocoa butter and instead knead away the 
 fatty tissue. 
 
 (11) Finish by carefully washing off your face with 
 warm water, followed by a dash of cold water to give 
 firmness, then carefully dry the skin, and apply a little 
 toilet powder. 
 
 Wrinkles. There is no better treatment for wrinkles 
 than careful systematic massage treatment, as above 
 described, paying special attention to the wrinkled 
 portions of the face. 
 
 The Neck. What we have said in the general con- 
 sideration of the skin, and in the treatment of the face, 
 will apply equally to the neck. If anything, however, 
 the advice regarding the massage of the neck should be 
 specially considered, as the neck generally requires a 
 greater degree of that form of treatment than does the 
 face itself. The exercises for neck-development, and 
 neck-reduction, respectively (given in other chapters 
 143 
 
of this book), will be found particularly useful and 
 beneficial. The use of high collars often results in a 
 discoloration of the neck. This discoloration may be 
 removed by the use of the remedial agents mentioned 
 in connection with tan and freckles (see Chapter XVI), 
 remembering however that the skin of the neck is 
 usually more tender than that of the face, and accord- 
 ingly more easily irritated by such applications. 
 
 The Hands. What I have said concerning the 
 general care of the skin, and the facial complexion, 
 applies also to the skin on the hands. Cleanliness and 
 care are as much needed for the hands as for the face. 
 The hands also need exercise. The " gripping exercise " 
 is furnished in connection with the exercises given in 
 another chapter of this book referring specially to 
 exercise of the forearm. The fingers also may be 
 moved in a manner suggestive of piano-practice or 
 typewriting work, and also drawn backward and for- 
 ward, and spread outward like a fan in order to render 
 them strong and flexible. 
 
 Hand Massage. The hands may also be massaged 
 to an advantage, the movements beginning at the wrist 
 and proceeding toward the finger-tips. Where the hands 
 are too fat, the fatty tissue may be massaged away; 
 while if they are skinny or scrawny, massage with nour- 
 ishing cocoa butter will prove beneficial. Where the 
 hands have grown hard and rough, from work or other- 
 wise, the application of olive oil will be found helpful. 
 
 It should be needless for me to caution you that the 
 144 
 
 
nails should be well cared for; kept clean and well 
 brushed with a nail brush ; and also kept well manicured. 
 There is no need of your spending money with mani- 
 curists, unless your purse easily permits of the same, 
 for with a little preliminary instruction, and the use of 
 nail scissors, file, emery-boards, orange-wood sticks, 
 and buffer, you should be able to do the work very well, 
 yourself. These little appliances are not expensive, 
 and may be obtained from any drug store. 
 
 Manicuring. It may be well for you first to have 
 your nails manicured, several times, by some competent 
 manicure, during which process you should carefully 
 observe the several movements, handling of implements, 
 and general treatment; after which you may continue 
 the performance, yourself, at home, by carefully follow- 
 ing the example of the manicure and having the advan- 
 tage of a good start. 
 
 The hardest part of manicuring, of course, is that of 
 getting the irregular nails well shaped up, in good con- 
 dition, and well started, after which all that is required 
 is to keep up the good work. 
 
 Careless cutting of the nails is to be avoided; and 
 as for that relic of barbarism, "biting" nails — pardon 
 me, the subject is too unpleasant even to think of. 
 Avoid excesses in manicuring, such as fancy shaped 
 nails or extra polished. Remember that the secret 
 of good manicuring is not to attract attention to the 
 nails, but rather to avoid the attention usually given 
 nails either too little or too much manicured. 
 145 
 
chapter xviii. 
 The Hair and Its Care. 
 
 l| HERE is no woman who does not appre- 
 ciate the value of a luxuriant growth 
 of hair. Well has it been called "the 
 crowning glory of woman." And, as 
 a consequence, there is no woman who 
 is not interested in the subject of the 
 growth, care, and preservation of the 
 hair. Accordingly, I shall plunge at 
 once into this subject, without wast- 
 ing space in glorifying the hair, or in 
 describing the history of hair-culture, 
 or anything of that sort with which readers of "hair 
 books" are usually afflicted. 
 
 General Health and the Hair. I may as well state, 
 right here at the beginning, that I am firmly convinced 
 that there can be no such thing as a fine head of hair 
 unless the woman first builds up her general health. 
 The hair is as much dependent upon the general health 
 of its wearer as is the skin. One has but to observe the 
 quick reflection of the general health upon the coat of 
 hair of the animals, to get an idea of the close connection 
 referred to. Therefore, the first thing that you must 
 do, milady of the scanty tresses, is to build up your 
 146 
 
general health and physical condition. And I feel no 
 hesitation in telling you that in this little book I have 
 given you information which should result in building 
 you into a strong, healthy woman, who may then expect 
 an increased growth of hair on her head. 
 
 But this does not mean that the hair will not 
 respond to the correct care and local treatment in the 
 case of every woman. The hair, like the muscles of any 
 part of the body, will respond to exercise and care and 
 may be increased thereby. 
 
 The Comb. The best regular exercise that can be 
 given the hair is that supplied by a careful and system- 
 atic combing, and so we shall consider this form of 
 exercise, now at the start. In the first place, be sure 
 that you have the right kind of comb. And, in the 
 second place, be sure that you keep your comb always 
 clean. 
 
 The best comb is the hard-rubber, " coarse" comb, 
 with smooth rounded edges which will not cut the hair. 
 A fine comb has many disadvantages, therefore I do not 
 recommend the ordinary rubber comb which is half fine 
 and half coarse. Get a coarse tooth comb, with teeth 
 of a like degree of coarseness along its entire length. 
 Never use a metal-tooth comb, as these, like the fine- 
 tooth rubber combs, tend to pull out good hair, to 
 cut hairs, and to wound and scratch the scalp. Beware, 
 particularly, of the sharp pointed-tooth comb, such as 
 our grandmothers so favored. And, also, discard a 
 comb the teeth of which arc broken. It pays better to 
 147 
 
get a good comb in the beginning, for its lasts almost 
 forever with good care, and one does not run the risk of 
 broken comb teeth. 
 
 Wash the comb frequently, adding a little ammonia 
 to the water and scrubbing out the teeth with your nail 
 brush and soap. A little sun bath is also as good for 
 the comb as it is for the brush. 
 
 The Brush. Beware of the metal-bristle brushes, as 
 they tend to scratch the scalp, and often injure delicate 
 hair; and besides they often become rusty and unfit for 
 use. The brush should have bristles widely separated 
 from each other. A fairly stiff brush is preferable but 
 not too stiff. The bristles should be of even length 
 throughout the entire surface of the brush. The brush 
 should be kept scrupulously clean, by frequent washing 
 in soap and hot water with a little ammonia added, 
 then rinsed in cold water. The nail brush is a help 
 here, too. 
 
 Avoid using the combs or brushes of other persons 
 or of allowing others to use yours. Scalp diseases are 
 infectious and every precaution should be taken to 
 avoid them. You should no more think of using the 
 comb and brush of another than of using the other 
 person's tooth brush. 
 
 Combing the Hair. Begin the process of dressing 
 and caring for the hair with combing, of course, the 
 brushing naturally following after the combing. Mak- 
 ing a part in the middle, comb the hair in gentle motions 
 from the scalp downward to the ends, first on one side 
 148 
 
and then on the other, continuing until the hair is 
 thoroughly disentangled and every hair hangs free 
 and the entire mass is soft and free. Then, after 
 exposing it to the air for a few moments, take up 
 your brush. 
 
 Brushing the Hair. The main object in brushing 
 the hair is to cleanse and stimulate the scalp, and to 
 clean and render smooth and glossy the hair. Correct 
 brushing is a valuable form of massage of the scalp. 
 The brushing should be continued until the hair shows 
 signs of "life, "as the hairdressers express it. A well- 
 known English authority advises a brushing of twenty 
 strokes on one side of the head, and then twenty on the 
 other; and so on, alternating in twenty-stroke series, 
 until each side receives a hundred strokes; but others 
 think that this number of strokes is excessive. One 
 must be governed by her own feelings in the matter, 
 to a great extent. Many careful women prefer to 
 brush the hair in smaller strands, finishing up with a 
 grand brush of the hair in two sections as above 
 described. Do not tear the hair by trying to untangle 
 it with the comb; in case of bad tangles the fingers 
 will do the work better and far more safely. 
 
 Airing the Hair. Many of the best authorities on 
 hair-culture advise an occasional airing of the hair, 
 that is to say, exposing the combed and brushed hair to 
 the air and sun if possible. Those who practice it 
 pronounce this plan very agreeable and generally 
 beneficial to the hair, as it serves to freshen it up, and 
 149 
 
relieve the roots of the strain of dressed hair. If you 
 have the opportunity, I suggest that you try it occasion- 
 ally. 
 
 Scalp Massage. The authorities differ regarding 
 the value of the scalp massage ; some claim great bene- 
 fits from it, while others incline to minimize its impor- 
 tance. Personally, I favor scalp massage. It certainly 
 stimulates the roots of the hair, and imparts a feeling 
 of life to the scalp and hair. In massaging the scalp, 
 use only the ends or tips of the fingers, being careful 
 to press only with the tips of the fingers, and avoiding 
 scratching the scalp with the nails. Place both hands 
 on the head, separating the fingers somewhat, and then 
 press the scalp between the finger tips, at the same 
 time giving to the scalp a gentle pressing forward motion . 
 The finger tips should also be made to move in little 
 circles. Press firmly and do not let the fingers slip 
 along the scalp — make the scalp itself move in 
 circles. 
 
 "Weeding-out" the Hair. A number of authorities 
 strongly advise a form of massage a little more strenuous 
 than the ordinary form, such as is above described. 
 They advocate, in addition to the ordinary massage of 
 the scalp, a gentle pulling of the hair, which is effected 
 by grasping a small portion of the hair between the 
 separated fingers, and then gently lifting or pulling the 
 hair from the scalp by the closed fingers. This is 
 held not only to invigorate the scalp, but also to remove 
 the loose dead hair which is far better out of the head 
 150 
 
than in it, for new hair grows from the roots of the hair 
 so removed. 
 
 In this process of "weeding-out," the fingers are 
 inserted in the hair, spread out like the ribs of a fan, 
 then closed together, holding the hair firmly between 
 them, and a pulling, extending motion then being given 
 them. Some authorities lay especial stress upon this 
 "weeding-out" of dead hair, and hold that if this exer- 
 cise is persisted in a fine strong full head of hair will 
 surely replace the head of weak hair which has been 
 weeded out. In this, however, as in other things, 
 remember that moderation and persistence pay. 
 
 Washing the Hair and Scalp. Here, again, the 
 authorities differ. Some advocate a weekly shampoo, 
 while others frown upon anything beyond a shampoo 
 at very long intervals. The truth, here as elsewhere, 
 seems to lie between the two extremes. It would seem 
 that every two weeks in some cases, and once a month, 
 in others, would be just about right — the difference 
 arising in the respective dryness of the hair of the 
 individuals, as well as its exposure to dust, etc. Use 
 a little common sense in this matter and do not overdo 
 the washings on the one hand nor make the shampoo 
 a "bugaboo" on the other. 
 
 The Shampoo. Any good toilet soap is suitable 
 for the shampoo, or you may make a shampoo liquid 
 by dissolving soap-chips in hot water. "Green Soap" 
 in solution is also very effective. Tar soap is also good, 
 especially when the dandruff is thick. There is no 
 151 
 
use in spending money in fancy shampoo liquids, etc., 
 as the same results may be obtained by the use of soap 
 solutions which you may make yourself. Some like 
 the white of egg shampoo, but there is no special virtue 
 in it. 
 
 How to Shampoo. Use hot water in the shampoo at 
 first; "lather" the head and rinse off; then lather again 
 and leave it on two or three minutes before cleaning 
 off with fresh -warm water; and finish the process with 
 an application of water cold enough to bring on a slight 
 reaction; then dry thoroughly. I use castile soap for 
 the first lather and a tiny bit of Birt's head wash for 
 the last. If my hair is very dirty from traveling I use 
 two castile "lathers" first, rubbing the soap cake gently 
 over the wet hair. Massage the scalp with the finger 
 ends during the shampoo. You will find an ordinary 
 bath-spray very useful and convenient in administer- 
 ing the shampoo. Be careful to get the hair thor- 
 oughly dry by the use of plenty of soft towels. Some 
 favor finishing up the drying by fanning it, but an 
 exposure to the sun is preferable. Both plans are 
 good. The hair should be thoroughly combed after 
 the shampoo, of course. 
 
 To make your hair stand out prettily around the 
 face dry it hanging over the face instead of down the 
 back. Lie face down across the bed and let the hair 
 drop over your face down on to a clean towel laid on 
 the floor. With the finger tips fluff the hair around 
 the face, rubbing the scalp briskly but lightly and with 
 152 
 
short strokes. A maid can expedite the drying with 
 a palm leaf fan. When the hair is nearly dry comb it 
 down all aroimd, away from the crown, using the fingers 
 only, place round your head a large fluffy "rat" made 
 of tissue paper, pin your hair loosely together on top, 
 over the "rat," taking pains to arrange the front 
 prettily but loosely with the fingers only, and go about 
 your work in peace for an hour or two while the hair 
 dries thoroughly. If at this point you can make it 
 convenient to read or sew for an hour or two swinging 
 in the hammock in the sun your hair will take on new 
 life and gloss and grace that will delight you. When 
 very dry comb your hair out thoroughly with the fingers 
 before touching it with a comb. Use no brush after 
 this shampoo. 
 
 After the shampoo, it may be found that the hair 
 is too dry, and lacking in oil. If this is found to be 
 especially noticeable, it may be well to apply a very 
 small quantity of olive oil — not too much, but just a 
 trace, in order to impart softness and glossiness. A 
 mixture of three teaspoonfuls of castor oil to one pint 
 of alcohol, is recommended for this purpose by good 
 authorities. If the hair persists in oiliness or greasiness 
 even after normal shampooing a little plain alcohol, 
 sparingly applied, and rapidly wiped off, may be found 
 helpful, but it will not be needed if these directions are 
 followed. The use of borax in the water, or even 
 liquid ammonia, for this purpose, is not advised, as 
 these have the tendency to make the hair too dry and 
 153 
 
brittle. Do not be afraid of a little natural oil in the 
 hair, for it is necessary for the health of the hair. 
 
 Dry Shampoo. Some favor the use of the dry- 
 shampoo, for several reasons, among which are (1) 
 the speedy process; (2) avoidance of a damp head in 
 cold weather; (3) easy application. Dry shampoos 
 are merely simple powders, such as cornstarch, orris 
 root, or corn meal, dusted in the head, and then re- 
 moved after the powder has taken up and absorbed the 
 oil and dust of the hair and scalp. I have known ordi- 
 nary talcum powder to be used in this way with good 
 results. The best way to apply the dry shampoo is to 
 dust it thoroughly into the hair, and then massage the 
 scalp thoroughly; then remove the powder by a good 
 vigorous brushing and shaking out. The hair will be 
 left quite fluffy, clean, and dry. There is no use in 
 wasting money buying fancy prepared dry shampoos, 
 as ordinary corn meal, cornstarch, or, better still, orris 
 root, will do as well. A trace of perfumed powder or 
 drop of extract, added, will render the shampoo powder 
 more agreeable. Of course, care should be taken to 
 thoroughly remove all the powder from the hair after 
 the process of shampooing with it. 
 
 The Hair at Night. I wish here to warn you against 
 allowing the hair to remain "put up" over night. This 
 course is apt to ruin the hair, and is, besides, not nice 
 or cleanly. The hair should be taken down at night, 
 well combed and brushed, the scalp massaged or the 
 hair pulled and "weeded out," and then put up into a 
 154 
 
loose braid, or more than one braid if the hair be 
 abundant. 
 
 Hair Tonics. Beware of the hair tonics, many of 
 which are so widely advertised. A little alcohol and 
 castor oil (previously described) with a few drops of 
 perfumed oil added, will answer every purpose, and 
 will be much cheaper, and perhaps much safer. But 
 very little even of this is needed. Proper treatment 
 of the hair will stimulate it sufficiently, and the natural 
 oil is generally sufficient. The chief value of hair 
 tonics comes from the finger tips, not the bottle. 
 
 155 
 
chapter xix. 
 Hair Troubles. 
 
 I22ET us now consider a few troubles 
 that befall the hair of woman. And 
 in the consideration, let us learn 
 what may be done to remedy, cor- 
 rect, or cure the troubles referred to. 
 Falling Out of Hair. In the 
 first place, milady, you must not 
 regard as "lost hair" every hair 
 that drops from your head. Just 
 as the skin is constantly throwing 
 off worn-out scales, so does the 
 hair constantly throw off dead hairs, leaving the roots 
 still alive, fresh, and vigorous, from which will spring 
 new, fresh, live hairs, to take the place of the discarded 
 ones. Remember this, that every hair on the head 
 is "shed" sooner or later; and, in health, is replaced 
 by growing new hair, springing from the same roots. 
 It is only when the hair is noticed to be growing thinner, 
 that the falling-out process need concern you. 
 
 How Hair Becomes Thin. The failure of nature to 
 replace each discarded hair with a new fresh one, spring- 
 ing from the roots of the old, results from an unhealthy 
 condition, and requires treatment and attention. In 
 156 
 
such cases, it will usually be found that the discarded 
 hair is being replaced by smaller and finer hairs, and 
 these by still smaller and finer, until at last the locks 
 become scanty and thin, or even baldness may result 
 in extreme cases. Thus, as you will see, it is important 
 to know the cause, as well as the remedy. 
 
 The Cause of Thinning Hair. Thinning of the hair 
 very often is the result of a decline in the general health. 
 In such cases, it should be your work to build up the 
 general physical condition, along the lines which I have 
 laid down in other chapters of this book. In other 
 cases, it is due to a general nervous condition, in which 
 case the remedy consists of building up the physical 
 system and acquiring mental poise and calm (see 
 Chapter XXI, regarding the mental aspects of the case). 
 
 Dandruff. In many cases, however, the cause of 
 falling hair is found to be the fact that the scalp is 
 covered by dandruff. In such cases, of course, the 
 remedy is plain — get after the dandruff. Dandruff, 
 as you know, is the presence on the scalp of a large 
 quantity of the discarded scarfskin scales of the scalp, 
 usually combined with the oil of the hair, and mixed 
 with the accumulated dust gathered by the hair. In 
 some cases there are large accumulations of dandruff 
 in oily lumps or cakes. But still more disagreeable 
 is the aggravated form in which hard cakes or scales are 
 formed. 
 
 How to Cure Dandruff. In the case of simple, plain 
 dandruff, it will usually be found to yield to shampoo- 
 157 
 
ing, simple scalp massage, good brushing, etc. — in short, 
 to careful attention given the scalp and hair. The very- 
 oily dandruff may be removed by occasionally mixing a 
 small quantity of weak ammonia in the shampoo water, 
 and proceeding as described in Chapter XVIII; follow- 
 ing up with frequent thorough massaging. 
 
 The hard, scaly form of dandruff is believed to be 
 infectious, and has probably been acquired by the use 
 of the hairbrush of some person afflicted with it. It 
 requires careful attention in the direction of massage 
 and shampoos. In such cases tar soap or sulphur soap 
 will be found better than the ordinary shampoo soap. 
 It is also well to bathe the hair occasionally with alcohol, 
 which acts as an antiseptic. In case the alcohol seems 
 to make the hair too dry, you may add a little castor 
 oil to it (see directions in preceding chapter) which will 
 remedy this trouble. Rub the alcohol well into the 
 scalp, massaging it well into the skin. 
 
 But do not be frightened if you happen to have a 
 little dandruff, for every one has this; in fact, it is 
 perfectly natural for the tiny scales of scarfskin to be 
 constantly thrown off by the scalp— the only trouble 
 is when they multiply too rapidly, and are accom- 
 panied with the other troubles above mentioned. 
 Systematic cleanliness, shampoos, with daily brushing 
 or massage, will remedy the trouble and preserve 
 normal conditions. 
 
 Baldness. Baldness is far more common with men 
 than with women, the reason probably being that 
 158 
 
women give more attention to the brushing and cleans- 
 ing of their hair than do men, the exercise and 
 massage thus obtained saving them from the troubles 
 of the men in this respect. The wearing of hats by- 
 men possibly is an additional cause of their special 
 liability to baldness. But, occasionally, women will 
 notice a tendency toward baldness, and they should 
 give the trouble their careful attention, by massaging 
 the scalp, "weeding out" the dead hair, brushing, etc., 
 along the lines I have already mentioned. 
 
 Baldness due to dandruff may be cured by removing 
 the cause in time. But the ordinary baldness of men 
 seems to defy cure. There are many remedies on the 
 market designed to bring back hair to bald heads, but 
 for the most part they are useless and worthless. A 
 fortune awaits the one who will discover or invent an 
 absolute cure for ordinary baldness. 
 
 H air-Splitting. Some women are much troubled 
 by the splitting of the ends of their hair. This is held 
 to denote a poor condition of health on the part of the 
 hair. Massage of the scalp and general treatment for 
 dandruff will usually remove this trouble. The ends of 
 the split hairs should be carefully clipped. This trouble 
 sometimes arises from the hair having become too dry, 
 from too many shampoos. In such a case, the remedy is 
 plain — the addition of a little olive oil, or castor oil and 
 alcohol, to the hair, as I have mentioned several times 
 in this and the preceding chapter. Some advocate 
 singeing the ends of the hair to prevent this trouble, 
 159 
 
but the best authorities generally agree that there is 
 nothing in it, in reality. 
 
 Hair Lice. This is not a pleasant subject, for the 
 presence of these vermin is generally associated with 
 uncleanliness and dirt. But these things will some- 
 times happen in the best of families, the trouble gener- 
 ally arising from the children of the family having 
 acquired the objectionable creatures from their school- 
 mates, and having then passed them on to the other 
 members of their own family. These creatures increase 
 very rapidly, and require immediate treatment. The 
 very best treatment, according to the best authorities, 
 consists of the application of tincture of larkspur to the 
 hair and scalp, at night and morning, for say three days. 
 Then, after a lapse of a few days, an additional applica- 
 tion may be made to destroy any "stray ones." This 
 is a simple, harmless, and very effective remedy, and it 
 is astonishing that so few persons seem to have heard of 
 it. It is well to remember this, as it is an embarrassment 
 to have to ask advice on the matter from the druggist 
 or physician; and in fact some other remedies which 
 might be suggested are far from pleasant and may even 
 prove harmful under some conditions. But, ugh! let 
 us change the subject. 
 
 Premature Grayness. That gray hair comes with 
 age is a fact that needs no special argument, although 
 many persons seem reluctant to believe it. Some per- 
 sons manage to avoid the gray hairs until quite ad- 
 vanced, but middle age generally brings some of the 
 160 
 
"white threads" in the fabric. I am glad to note that 
 the one-time prejudice against gray and white hair is 
 disappearing, even among women. It is now being 
 admitted that gray hair is most becoming in many 
 cases; and, as people have ceased to grow old in the 
 former way, the gray hair is not now regarded as an 
 enemy by the average woman. The first few gray 
 hairs may give some worry but after a while the worry 
 passes away and milady begins to study the effect of 
 the new color scheme that has come to her. 
 
 But premature gray hair is not pleasant and gener- 
 ally requires medical treatment as the causes are usually 
 found to lie in the general system rather than in the 
 hair or scalp themselves. Strong emotion, grief, con- 
 tinued worry, mental shock, anxiety, over-study, etc., 
 are the more frequent causes of premature grayness. 
 
 I do not know of any real cure for gray hair; nor 
 is such known to the best authorities, according to their 
 own statements. The quacks and sellers of patent 
 nostrums offer many preparations claimed to restore 
 gray hair to its natural color; but I remain a doubting 
 Roxana in the matter. And I cannot say that I am 
 worried because of this fact. 
 
 When I look around me and see some of my dear 
 friends whose hair is not only gray but actually white, 
 and then see how becoming it is to them and how charm- 
 ingly they arrange the color schemes of their dress to 
 harmonize and blend in with the whitened hair, I must 
 confess that I do not look forward to the practically 
 161 
 
certain coming of the "silver threads among the gold" 
 in my own case, with any degree of fear or regret. 
 
 But even if I did not think it would be becoming to 
 me when it comes, I am sure that I shall be able to bear 
 it with equanimity, feeling sure that I shall be able to 
 grow into it with grace and with some degree of attrac- 
 tiveness, owing to my mental attitude in the matter. 
 It is not well to hate these things which are forced upon 
 us, and from which we cannot escape. It is far better 
 to learn to love the things for then we will harmonize 
 v. ith them, and they with us, and thus create a beauty 
 of their own. Inharmony never results in beauty — 
 harmony is an essential of beauty. Remember that, 
 milady, and govern yourself accordingly. 
 
 Superfluous Hair. Superfluous hair, of course, is 
 hair out of place — that is, hair not wanted. This is a 
 source of great annoyance to many women, who often go 
 to great trouble and expense in order to get rid of the 
 trouble — too often without success. Strictly speaking 
 there is only one remedy for superfluous hair, that will 
 effect a permanent cure, and that is the electric needle, 
 or electrolysis. But this treatment is expensive, 
 troublesome, and more or less painful, and few care to 
 adopt it except in the case where the objectionable 
 hairs are but few in number. The majority of women 
 resort to some of the various depilatory pastes, powders, 
 or liquids, which are sold at all drug stores, the majority 
 of which are more or less dangerous, owing to their 
 liability to burn and blister sensitive skins. There is 
 162 
 
no drug known which will permanently remove hair — 
 this is admitted by the best authorities, so look out for 
 the quack remedies ''infallible" which are offered at 
 a high price. 
 
 Simple Methods of Removing Hair. Many women 
 find more or less satisfaction and relief by removing the 
 objectionable hairs with a pair of small tweezers, when 
 they become too long; and in the meantime, applying 
 peroxide of hydrogen one day, and a weak solution of 
 ammonia the next, alternating the two each day. It 
 is claimed that by keeping this treatment up persistently, 
 for a period of six months to one year, the hairs will 
 become permanently weakened and will eventually die 
 and disappear. In the meantime, the hairs are bleached 
 and become less noticeable. 
 
 This last named remedy has been recommended by 
 good authorities, and I understand that many have 
 tried it with satisfactory results. I have never found 
 the need of it personally, so I cannot speak from experi- 
 ence in the matter. It seems reasonable though, but 
 it requires persistency, perseverance, and a dogged 
 tenacity though to carry it through for so long a time. 
 The average woman wants to get rid of the hairs at 
 once and permanently- but she cannot do this, and 
 must needs go about the mutter in some other way. 
 Here is another chance for some one to invent or dis- 
 cover a remedy, which would bring her in a fortune. 
 But no one seems to embrace the opportunity. 
 
 Coloring the Hair. I am utterly opposed to the 
 L63 
 
dyeing, coloring, or bleaching of the hair of the head, 
 and believe that the same is more or less unhealthy and 
 dangerous; and moreover, I fail to see any beaut y 
 whatsoever in hair so treated. I may be narrow and 
 old-fashioned in this, but I have very strong feelings 
 on the subject. Therefore, milady, there shall be 
 nothing in this book along these lines, except to repeat 
 the celebrated advice of Punch, i. e., "Don't!" 
 
 164 
 
chapter xx. 
 The Eyes, Teeth, and Feet. 
 
 ffiHE Eyes. I shall not take up 
 your time and my space by repeat- 
 ing the familiar advice about not 
 overstraining the eyes by reading 
 by a poor light, etc. You should 
 already know that by heart. One 
 should never read, or do fancy 
 work, in the bright glare of the sun, 
 or directly facing the light. The 
 light should always come over the 
 left shoulder, and should never be 
 dim, flickering, or "jumpy." Reading on the train 
 is, of course, also bad. 
 
 The Eyecup. Every woman who wishes to care 
 for her eyes should own a little eyecup, which is made 
 of glass, and which may be obtained at the druggist's 
 for five or ten cents. It is used for applying soothing 
 washes to the eye. It is used by placing a little of 
 the wash in the cup, and then pressing the cup 
 lightly around the eye-space, so that none of the 
 wash can escape, the head then being tilted back, 
 and the eye opened and shut, or winked slowly, dur- 
 165 
 
ing the bathing process. You will never be willing 
 to give up the little eyecup, once you have used it. 
 
 Eyewashes. Do not waste your money in buying 
 expensive eyewashes, for you can do just as well by 
 using simple materials without paying for the fancy 
 labels and advertising bills. A little powdered boracic 
 acid dissolved in water, with a little rosewater added, 
 makes the ideal eyewash. You can prepare it your- 
 self, or else obtain it already prepared from the druggist, 
 at a nominal price. It is used with the eyecup and 
 will relieve strained, tired eyes and impart a natural 
 brightness to them. It also is excellent for use in the 
 case of inflamed eyelids, etc. Some favor the " camphor 
 wash," made by dissolving one grain of borax in two 
 ounces of camphor water. The English women favor 
 bathing the eyes in weak, cold tea. 
 
 Many old-time mothers in this country advise 
 their daughters to use a mild solution of plain table 
 salt in water and if one does not mind the smarting 
 she will surely secure a bright, fresh eye from this 
 wash. 
 
 In case the eyeballs feel sore and tired, from over- 
 work or otherwise, the application of a cloth saturated 
 in hot water, placed over the closed eyelids, will help; 
 in this case the hot water should be renewed when it 
 begins to cool off, care being taken, of course, not to 
 use water hot enough to scald the eyelids. This last 
 remedy will speedily remove the bad effects of weep- 
 ing — something that every woman should know, for 
 166 
 
tears will often come to the best of us, absurd though 
 the causes of them often are. 
 
 Eye Massage. A little very gentle massage of the 
 eyeball (given over the closed lids, of course) will tend 
 to strengthen them and to relieve "that tired feeling." 
 Bagginess under the eyes, as well as the little wrinkles 
 that often come near the outer corner of the eyes, may 
 be relieved by a gentle massage, using the tips of the 
 fingers, and massaging away from the nose always, 
 never towards it. In massaging the eyeballs, reverse 
 the movement — rub gently toward the nose, which 
 tends to correct flattening of the eyeballs and con- 
 sequent far sight. 
 
 Cinders, etc. Never rub the eye in which a cinder 
 has lodged; but always rub the other eye, which causes 
 the cindered eye to water in sympathy and thus dis- 
 lodge the offending material. Rubbing the affected 
 eye may result in pressing the cinder into the eye or lid, 
 and thus make the removal difficult. Use the boracic 
 acid solution, in the eyecup, after the cinder is removed, 
 as it will remove the soreness. A medicine dropper 
 may often be used with good effect in removing cinders 
 from the eyelids, by drawing them out by suction along 
 with the fluids that have formed. A little pointed 
 roll of very soft paper, also, may prove useful. 
 
 Eyebrows and Eyelashes. The eyebrows may be 
 
 kept in the best condition by the use of an eyebrow 
 
 brush which may be obtained from any druggist at a 
 
 nominal price. lis soft bristles will not irritate the 
 
 167 
 
hair roots, but will tend to smooth down and render 
 generally attractive this important feature of the face. 
 A very small portion of olive oil (perfumed if you desire) 
 may be used not oftener than once a day, smoothing 
 out the eyebrow away from the nose in applying it. 
 
 Scanty Eyebrows and Lashes. Scanty eyebrows may 
 be corrected by a system of daily gentle massage, using 
 a little olive oil, and massaging away from the nose. 
 Use tweezers to remove occasional too-long hairs in the 
 eyebrows, or hair over the root of the nose, if too prom- 
 inent. Eyelashes, if too scanty or thin, may be 
 strengthened and stimulated into growth by a gentle 
 massage of the edges of the eyelids, using a little olive 
 oil. Avoid the use of "eyelash growers" containing 
 cantharides, as the same may injure the eye if any of 
 the preparation should get into it. 
 
 Curling Eye Lashes. Using the eyebrow brush for 
 the eyelashes, by brushing them upward from the under- 
 side, will encourage their growth and will give them an 
 attractive little upward curl. 
 
 The Teeth. I trust that it is not necessary for me to 
 do more than merely remind my readers that the teeth 
 must not be neglected. In these days of dental hygiene 
 more should be unnecessary. There are two general 
 rules for the care of the teeth, viz.: (1) Keep the teeth 
 clean by brushing night and morning, and perhaps 
 after each meal; and (2) have your teeth examined by 
 a dentist at least once every six months, having every 
 tooth attended to the moment you are aware of any 
 168 
 
trouble with it. I might add a third one, namely (3) 
 chew your food well; for this is nature's own way of 
 keeping the teeth in good condition. 
 
 Brushing the Teeth. In brushing the teeth give the 
 brush an "up and down" motion, rather than brushing 
 them across. (The druggist will show you tooth 
 brushes especially adapted to this motion.) This 
 motion removes the particles of food from between the 
 teeth, whereas the customary "across" motion does 
 not. Also be sure to brush the inside surface of the 
 teeth, as well as the outer one; the faces of the back 
 teeth also require attention. 
 
 Do not use too stiff a toothbrush, as such often 
 injures the gums. Choose the "medium" variety 
 unless your gums are extremely tender, in which case 
 the very soft brush should be used. Rinse out the 
 mouth after each brushing; a few additional rinses 
 during the day will not hurt you any and is a good 
 habit to acquire. Use only a good standard tooth 
 powder. 
 
 Bad Breath: Its Cause and Cure. Careful cleaning 
 of the teeth will prevent bad breath from that source; 
 but in many cases bad breath arises from the stomach. 
 Keeping the colon clean, and drinking the proper 
 amount of water (see other chapters of this book) will 
 do much to correct this trouble; but if it persists you 
 might try using a small pinch of bicarbonate of soda 
 (ordinary baking soda) in a wineglass of water, taken in 
 the morning, occasionally; or, if preferred, after meals. 
 10!) 
 
The Dentist. But, last, as well as first, keep on 
 good terms with your dentist; that is, have your teeth 
 examined at least every six months, and have every 
 defective tooth and your gums attended to at the first 
 signs of trouble. This will prove the cheapest in the 
 long run and will save you much annoyance besides. 
 
 The Feet. I suppose that it is folly for me to preach 
 the usual sermon regarding the evil effects of improper 
 shoes, and to advise rational habits in this respect — no 
 one will heed me, so I shall refrain from delivering the 
 usual discourse. But I will say, milady, try to use at 
 least a little common sense in the matter of the selection 
 of your shoes for there is nothing beautiful in a cramped 
 foot and a lame gait, no matter how beautiful the shoe 
 may be in itself. For myself, I have solved the problem 
 after years of painful experience, by wearing "ground 
 gripper" shoes for all purposes except dancing. 
 
 Footbaths. A frequent footbath is not only soothing 
 and refreshing to the poor tired feet, but is also bene- 
 ficial to the general health of the foot. Moreover, the 
 foot is an important excretory center, and by keeping 
 its pores clear, clean, and free, the waste matter of the 
 system is removed, and the general complexion is 
 benefited thereby. A good footbath, to be used every 
 night, is composed of water heated until it becomes 
 "almost hot," in which is dissolved a small quantity of 
 boracic acid (powdered). This boracic acid may be 
 obtained from your druggist, in large packages at a 
 small cost, and is quite a useful thing to have around 
 170 
 
the house. Let the feet soak for five minutes, and then 
 wash off in a cooler water; finishing with a good brisk 
 rubbing with a bath towel. Many favor finishing off 
 the rubbing by the thorough rubbing in of, and massag- 
 ing with, ordinary cold cream. 
 
 Shoes and Stockings. A change of shoes tends to 
 relieve the tired foot, so, if your purse permits, have 
 changes of shoes. This is good for the shoes as well 
 as for the feet, for two pairs of shoes worn alternately 
 will last much longer than two pairs worn in the ordinary 
 way, and the feet will also relish the change. Change 
 the stockings every day, even if you have to wash them 
 out every night in a bowl. See that your stockings fit 
 neither too large nor too small; and avoid coarsely 
 darned stockings, if possible. 
 
 Toe Nails, Corns, and Bunions. Keep the toe nails 
 as carefully trimmed as those of the hand. Visit the 
 chiropodist occasionally and have the corns and bunions 
 kept away, or at least in check. Use a little corn safety 
 razor for cutting corns, and be sure it is sterilized in 
 peroxide of hydrogen or alcohol. Beware of too narrow 
 toes in your shoes. A piece of pumice stone will often 
 keep down young corns, and will remove calloused 
 places on the foot, if used just after the footbath. 
 
 Excessive Perspiration of Feet. A clean colon will 
 
 domucli bo relieve the offensive or excessive perspiration 
 
 feet, for reasons we J'. mentioned in other 
 
 chapters of this book. The ordinary footbath (pre- 
 
 cribed) will also go a great way to per- 
 
 171 
 
manently remove the same. But if you have a very 
 obstinate case, you will find it beneficial to powder into 
 your stocking, or shoe, a little powdered boracic acid 
 every morning, or whenever you change your shoes. 
 This will also tend to render the feet firm and healthy. 
 Many of the widely advertised foot powders are no 
 more effective than the plain boracic acid, though 
 costing much more. 
 
 172 
 
chapter xxi. 
 Thought and Beauty. 
 
 |0, milady, this is not a sermon on 
 Christian Science or New Thought, 
 although the practices arising from 
 the teachings of both of those bodies 
 of thinkers have been found con- 
 ducive to an improvement in per- 
 sonal appearance by many of the 
 thousands who have applied them 
 in that direction. But this is no 
 place to enter into metaphysical 
 theorizing or philosophical discourses 
 and I must leave these things for others to discuss, 
 pro and con. 
 
 Mind and Body. Notwithstanding what I have 
 just said, I still feel justified in adding this chapter on 
 the influence of Thought upon Beauty, and this upon 
 strict psychological and physiological grounds — upon 
 scientific facts. Every advanced authority upon 
 psychology or physiology of late years has freely 
 acknowledged the wonderful effects of the mental states 
 and emotions upon the secretions of the body and upon 
 the general health or ill health of the individual. It is 
 known that many of the secretions of the body, .such as 
 173 
 
the perspiration, the saliva, the gastric juices, the bile, 
 the tears, the milk, etc., are directly, powerfully, and 
 actively affected by strong feelings, or strong mental 
 images, — this not only in the case of human beings, 
 but also in the cases of the lower animals. These facts 
 are too well established by careful scientific experiments 
 to need any argument here. 
 
 Emotion and Appearance. Again, it is within the 
 experience of every observing person that the outer 
 form and expression of human beings are powerfully 
 influenced by mental states, feelings, and emotions. 
 For instance, who would dispute the fact that the happy, 
 contented woman manifests in her outward expression 
 her inner feelings? Or, on the other hand, that the 
 depressed, unhappy, worried woman shows the char- 
 acter of her thoughts and feelings in the lines of her face, 
 the expression of her eyes, the set of her mouth, and, 
 in fact, in her general physical appearance? The 
 woman who loves and is loved, is a far different looking 
 woman from the one who is not experiencing that deep 
 joy of woman's nature. But why multiply illustra- 
 tions? Every one knows that these facts are so. 
 
 Mental Pictures. But comparatively few have 
 pursued the matter to its logical conclusion, and have 
 discovered by study or experience that the general 
 mental attitude and ideals of a person are infallibly 
 reflected in her countenance. That is to say, that a 
 mental picture in the mind of a person tends toward 
 an expression along the same general lines in her face 
 174 
 
and form. The woman who carries in her " mind's 
 eye" the picture of a beautiful womanly form and face, 
 is setting to work hidden psychic forces which will tend 
 to rebuild her face and form according to the model 
 held in the inner mind. Just as the ancient Greeks 
 surrounded prospective mothers with beautiful statuary 
 to the end that the beautiful lines might be reproduced 
 in the bodies of the forming babes, so are many women 
 to-day successfully rebuilding their forms and features 
 by holding an inner ideal of beauty. This is no fanciful 
 extreme statement but a fact known to the most 
 advanced students of the subject and to many who 
 have successfully tried this plan. It is true that the 
 rebuilding is slow, but it is sure. Is this not worth 
 trying? 
 
 Thought and Beauty. From what we have said, 
 you may see that there is an intimate relation between 
 thought and beauty, both in the direction of improving 
 one 's complexion by means of maintaining a happy and 
 cheerful state of mind, and thus favorably affecting the 
 secretions of the body; and also in the direction of 
 influencing nature in forming the lines of the body and 
 the face along the lines of an inner idealistic pattern. 
 Therefore I strongly advise every woman to cultivate 
 the emotional and imaginative sides of her mental 
 nature, so as to throw on the screen of her face and 
 body the beautiful mental pictures of form and feeling 
 which she is holding in her mind. 
 
 Self-Treatments by Mind Power. And while I am on 
 175 
 
this subject I may venture to go so far as to indicate 
 the effect of mental states upon physical conditions in 
 a few specific instances, which may be applied by such 
 of my readers who may need assistance of this kind. 
 I refer to the undoubted power of command over 
 certain functions and organs which the mind and will 
 certainly possess. Let me give you a few typical 
 examples: 
 
 In the first place, I know from my own experience 
 and that of many of my friends that the use of the mind 
 is a valuable aid in the breaking up of constipation and 
 the establishing of correct and regular habits of the 
 bowels in place thereof. 
 
 It will often be found that after the colon is cleaned 
 and cleared and the proper amount of water is partaken 
 of and the constipated habits removed there still exists 
 a reluctance of the bowels to move regularly and sys- 
 tematically. In such a case, select an hour early in 
 the morning, most convenient to you, say seven o 'clock 
 in the morning; then fix the hour "seven o'clock," 
 firmly in your mind, and frequently think of the same, 
 and even repeat it to yourself, thusly: "My bowels 
 will move freely, and naturally, at seven o'clock to- 
 morrow morning," repeating this several times each time 
 you say it. Form the mental picture of your having 
 relief at seven o'clock the following morning, and try 
 to believe in your statement. At the appointed hour, 
 go to the closet, whether or not you feel any inclination, 
 and assist nature by your mental expectation. In 
 176 
 
many cases the answer will come even at the first trial; 
 in others, several trials are necessary; but I will venture 
 to say that in all cases, if the experiment is persisted 
 with in the right spirit, the desired conditions will come 
 about in a short time. 
 
 In cases of chronic constipation, there is apt to have 
 developed an unnatural tightness of the rectum and 
 anus. If so, carry the thought, and utter the word 
 "Relax!" (repeated several times) vigorously, placing 
 the hand on the indicated part of the body, and trying 
 to form a mental picture of Relaxation of the muscles 
 involved. At the same time, try to feel the sensation 
 of relaxation in your mind — a sensation of "letting go" 
 or "expanding," and "freedom from tightness" in the 
 parts in question. This practice will result in produc- 
 ing a new habit and in causing the old strained habit to 
 disappear. These are not imaginings, but scientific 
 facts, good sister. 
 
 In the same way, the mental picture of strong 
 uterine muscles, firmly holding up the womb and support- 
 ing it properly, if persisted in with spirit and determina- 
 tion, has often caused a corresponding relief and even 
 absolute cure, in the case of women who have suffered 
 for years from falling of the womb and similar instances 
 of weakened support. 
 
 Again, painful menstruation has been cured, or at 
 
 least greatly improved, by the same method indicated 
 
 in the cure of constipation; i. e., the idea of freeness, 
 
 ease, relaxed condition, etc., being carried in mind and 
 
 177 
 
uttered in word. Paint the mental picture of what 
 you want, and express the command on your own words, 
 and see what happens! It is a scientific fact that many 
 women have cured irregular menstruation by marking 
 ahead a month, on a calendar, their regular day, and 
 then each day looking steadily at the calendar and 
 deliberately counting the days that must elapse, each 
 day being one step nearer the marked day; and at the 
 same time confidently feeling that that "day of days" 
 would bring the desired happening. It takes a little 
 time in some cases, but persistence will win out in most 
 instances. Is it not worth trying, suffering woman- 
 kind? 
 
 Controlling the Emotions. I also again recommend 
 the reading of that valuable little book of Elizabeth 
 Towne's, called "Just How to Wake the Solar Plexus" 
 (Elizabeth Towne Company, Holyoke, Mass.) in which 
 is given a number of means of controlling the emotions 
 by means of mental images and breath-control. Mrs. 
 Towne is a sane, sound thinker, and a powerful and 
 clear writer, and knows what she means to say, and 
 then says it forcibly and in a way that you will not for- 
 get. She is eminently practical, sensible, and tells 
 "how to do" things as well as explaining the "why" 
 of the thing. 
 
 A Secret of the Orient. While on the subject of 
 
 breathing and emotion, let me tell you the secret of the 
 
 Orientals who use the breath in this manner. The 
 
 secret is this: Emotional states always affect the 
 
 178 
 
rhythm of the breath; its frequency; its strength; its 
 duration. This you will admit if you think a moment. 
 There is the slow sighing breath of grief; the panting 
 breath of anger; the gasping breath of fear; and so on. 
 Well, the Orientals, years and years ago — centuries 
 ago — discovered that if man would learn to control his 
 breath, he could control his emotions; and that, for 
 instance, it was impossible for one to be fearful if he 
 would but prevent a "fear breath"; or angry if he 
 would cut off the " anger breath." See? Simple, isn't 
 it? And well worth trying. 
 
 Fletcher has told us that if one will master Fear and 
 Anger, one may remain perfectly well poised and calmly 
 serene. Therefore, if one can inhibit the fear breath 
 and the anger breath, and substitute therefor the 
 breath of calmness and serenity, one will have solved 
 the secret of poise. And poise is bound to reflect in 
 beauty, is it not? 
 
 I think I will leave the subject right at this point, 
 so as to induce you to do a little thinking along these 
 lines, on your own account. It will do you good. 
 
 Another Little Secret. Oh, yes! I came near forget- 
 ting — there is one thing more I wish to say to you, and 
 that is: Study the most beautiful woman you know — 
 the one you would most like to resemble — study her 
 until you can feel like her, that is, catch the keynote of her 
 inner feeling (do you get my meaning?) and then try 
 to manifest that feeling in the form of a predominant 
 mental attitude — mental picture, or image, as it were — 
 179 
 
and, in the course of time, do not be surprised to find 
 that the mental picture is beginning to reproduce itself 
 in outward form and that Your Ideal is Becoming 
 Real in your own face and form. 
 
 No, that's all! I am not going to tell you another 
 thing about this secret. It will be far better for you to 
 work it out for yourself, in your own experience — then 
 it will be well worth while, for you will have earned 
 your reward under the Law of Compensation. And 
 so, Auf Wiedersehen! 
 
 180 
 
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