' %LMight, but were quite refreshed in the morning, though the day promised to be very warm. It vv^as the first really hot weather we had had and this was a little strange, as they do not have much hot weather in Vienna. We visited the Imperial Palace and Imperial Museum of Art. Titian's " Ecce Homo" is here, Tintoretti's "Visit of the Magi," and many other noted paintings. One by Murillo, a conception of John the Baptist, Leaves from My Diary. 6p with one hand on the head of a lamb, and the other holding a staff with a cross on top and a roll flowing from it with the words " Ecce Agnus Dei " inscribed thereon, riveted my atten- tion. In the wilderness or back ground was a light. Light Coming Through the Cross, by Van Dyke was another which interested me greatly. Mary, Joseph and the babe were in the dark or shadow. Clouds were above and three angels holding the cross, through which streamed the light. Peculiar costumed children were very amusing pictures. Their dresses were long and quilted, the designs being suitable for elderly persons. Most of the galleries we visited in all of the countries were in themselves gems of architecture, but this Imperial Gallery far surpassed them all. In fact the exterior as well as the interior was very beautiful. The stairs leading to the different halls were of white marble, the balusters seeming to be of agate. Lovely marbles of every variety formed the walls, and every niche and corner was filled with some artistic statue, or so arranged as to be a place of beauty. We went into the Treasury of the palace where we saw the Court jewels and robes. After dinner and a rest, we drove for three hours all over the city. The buildings seemed very massive and grand. They are mostly of stone or granite, and seem built to last for all time. The Town Hall covers one whole block, and is a magnificent structure. The Opera House is one of the largest in the world, for next to the Italians the Vienese are the most musical people in Europe. Haydn, Mozart and Beethoven made their homes here for a long time. The Parliament House is a very imposing structure, and with its mass of columns gives one an impression of beauty and strength one cannot easily dispel. The Palace of Justice is another fine building and I might go on enumerating others, but in a word, will say that I was greatly impressed with the yo Leaves from My Diaiy. number, height, massiveness and beauty of the structures and with the width of the many strasses ,or boulevards, as we would call them. The King Strasse, araund which is grouped so many of these fine buildings, is said to surpass in architect- ural magnificence any other street in Europe. We visited St. Stephen's Cathedral, a noble Gothic structure built in the 13th century. The stained glass windows are very fine and the carved stalls in the choir and stone pulpit are specially notable. We drove to the " Prater," the great park of Vienna, covering 4,270 acres. Here was where the Great Exposition in 1873 was held, and here there were miles of overarched roadways shaded by magnificent trees ; there was the quiet which is so intense that you can really feel it and then you had to drive but a little, when all forms of recreation and a type of almost every phase of life would burst upon your view. It was in this part that I realized the truth of the scenes in "Old Vienna" as depicted on the Mid-way Plaisance, at Chicago, Vienna has over a million inhabitants and everything is on a large scale. Emperor Francis Joseph hns reigned fifty years, and during his reign an aqueduct thirteen miles long has been built and the course of the Danube turned which formerly threatened inundation, so that the danger has been forever averted, Sunday, July 23d, as in most places on the Continent, I was awakened by the march of soldiers and the music of the band. Workmen seem to be busy here on Sundays as else- where. In Luzerne they were plastering houses near our hotel, and here they are equally busy. We went to the Protestant Church Dorothea Gassi, but it proved to be a Ger- man Church and we could not understand the service. On our return we stopped in the Votine Church or Cathedral, Leaves from My Diary. ji built to commemorate the escape of Francis Joseph from assassination in 1853. It has 78 stained glass windows, and six Egyptian marble pillars support the pulpit or oratory. In the afternoon the heat was so intensely oppressive that we wend- ed our way to the Prater and there sat for hours in the shade of the trees. The next morning we left Vienna at 7.30 for Dresden. Our driver took us to the wrong station and we came near losing our train. It was raining hard, but we hailed another carriage, and reached the right station just in time. Our journey was through varied scenery. From stretches of dense woods we would emerge into little hamlets with clusters of low houses, the habitations of the peasantry. Now and then we would see the ruins of an old castle. Much of the way was through a fertile farming country, with its golden sheaves of grain, ripe for the sickle. We passed through Prague, longing to stop there, but time forbade. The river Elbe flowed by our side for a long way, and though seemingly narrow and not very deep, steamers were plying through its waters and other craft indicating quite an extensive traffic. Our train came to a sudden halt at a small station, and we were informed that here we must stay for an hour, as our train was late and had failed to make connections. We dined in a restaurant, and entered our compartment to find that our baggage had been again inspected by the custom- house officials, as we were on the border line of Germany. The scenery on from this point was grand. We were so near to a castle as to have a charming view of it, and all its details. The mountains hereabouts reminded me of the Palisades, and assumed some of the forms so peculiar to our own Rockies. At 8.35 P. M. we reached Dresden and were soon established in pleasant quarters. Dreeben an^ IDictnit^. We were pleasantly impressed from the first with this lovely city. We had been directed to a Pension by friends, but finding it full, we stumbled upon very pleasant quarters with four sisters as our landladies. Our rooms were very large and pleasant, and everything was done to make us feel at home. Our first visit, the morning after resting, was to a gallery of paintings (in the Zwinger), where is Raphael's Sistine Madonna. A room is devoted to this wonderful paint- ing, and while we are familiar with the outlines of the pic- ture, still the colorings are rarely reproduced. A curtain of green seems to be drawn aside, revealing the Mother and Child on clouds of glory ; two angels are in the foreground. St. Sisto is on the right, in robes of yellow and red, looking up, while Santa Barbara, in blue and yellow, is looking down ; Pope's hat in the corner. " The Holy Night ", by Correggio, is another of the 2400 paintings in this gallery. Mary, with the Babe in her arms. Joseph and the animals in the shadow, angels above, from whence comes the light, illuminating the Mother and Child. "Death of the Holy Clara," by Murillo. Clara on a bed with hands folded. Priest reading to her, candles lighted, and vessel of holy incense near. A train of virgins, bearing palms in their hands, with the queen in the center. The death scene in the shadow, the rest in the light. St. Cecelia, by Carl Dolce. The Crown of Thorns, by Guido Reni. Tribute Money, by Titian. Christ on the Cross, by Michael Mulcaksy. Christ in the Temple, by Pleinrich Hoffman. These are only a few of the pictures I was specially interested in. Leaves from My Diary. 7j In the afternoon we visited the Schiller Gardens, where we listened to most lovely music. On our way hither we saw some charming private residences. The next morning ^we went to the Royal Palace and into the Green Vault, where the jewels of the royal family are kept. We saw most beau- tiful ivory, bronze, gold and silver and mosaics. The attend- ant then showed us all the gold and silver plate, china, glass and linen used in the royal household. The variety and quan- tity was so great that we could hardly comprehend its need. The feasts of state must be worth looking in upon, for the brilliancy of the gold and silver vessels, with the rare china, fine crystal, matchless linen and decorations, would alone re- pay one, even if there were no viands to tempt the appetite. Another garden, where the band was discoursing sweet music we visited in the afternoon, and also took in some of the fine shops, of which there are many. The morning was fine, and a stroll by the river Elbe was taken, and the Beuhl Terrace, the popular promenade, visited, where were some fine build- ings devoted to modelling, which we did not enter. We rested in the park, where were mounds of sand for the children to play in. At 2.15, July 27, we took the train for Berlin.) Berlin. It was raining hard when we started, but cleared before we reached Berlin, at 5 P. M. Here we were domiciled in a German family and greatly enjoyed this glimpse of real Ger- man life. Our hostess was very bright and witty, and spared no pains to make our stay an agreeable one. Berlin is the third city in size in Europe. We visited the famous Frederic Arcade, then took a car- riage and drove through the " Unter der Linden", one of the finest streets in Europe ; it is a mile long, with the Palace Bridge, with its eight groups of statuary at one end, and the celebrated Brandenburg Gate, surmounted by the colossal chariot of victory, at the other. The figure of victory, seated in the chariot, drawn by four horses, is magnificent; and the whole was taken away by the French in t8o6, but restored in 18 14, after the Treaty of Vienna. The gate cost £80,000, and is the entrance to the Thier Gardens. Among other famous buildings which we passed on our ride, was the Palace, the Opera House, and University, and also the famous statue of Frederick William HI. Passing through the Brandenburg Gate, which is 63 feet high and 205 feet wide, having five pas- sages, and which was built in 1789-92, after the model of the Prophylea at Athens, we passed through the Thier Garden, in reality a very extensive park, out to Charlottesburg, where there is a palace and very beautiful grounds. Here was the mausoleum containing the remains of Frederick William IH, Qj-ieen Louise, tlieir son Emperor William I and the Empress Augusta. The mausoleum is in the form of a temple of the Doric order, and within are the sarcophagi of the four recum- Leaves from My Diary. 75 bent figures, cut out of Carara marble, the master-pieces of Rauch. So wonderfully beautiful are these sculptured figures that you are strangely impressed with their majestic greatness and their pure loveliness. We lingered and lingered here, strangely fascinated with the place, which did not savor of death, but of life immortal. On our entrance to the Royal Palace the following morn- ing, we were each required to encase our feet in felt shoes pro- vided, so that in our walk through the rooms we might not mar the highly polished floors. The appearance of the com- pany thus shod, gliding about the rooms, was ludicrous in the extreme, and I am afraid that my gaze was oftener riveted upon the gyrations of some of the company than upon the portraits the attendant was describing in German. Some of the rooms, however, were very beautiful, and as we emerged from the last one, we left our shoes at the entrance, and the fun was over. We paid a visit to the Aliiseum, and took a view of the interior of the Opera House ; this is considered a very wonderful building, but its size disappointed us. In the Hohenzollern Gallery, among many others, I was specially interested in the painting, "Antoninus of Padua Holding the Christ", by Murillo. The foreground and sides were dark, while the face of Antoninus and of the Child were lighted from above, and the effect was very fiine. The "Raising of Lazarus", by Reubens, was another; Christ is standing, the sisters are kneeling, one looking up at Jesus, the other clasping the brother by the hand, while two men are loosing the clothes ; Lazarus has his eyes fixed upon Christ. On Sunday we attended service at the American Chapel. Rev. Mr. Dickie preached from Matt. 8:31 : " Suffer me to bury my father." He said there were three kinds of men — those who are sinful and wish to follow Jesus, but do not y6 Leaves from My Diary. count the cost; those who put filial duties before the dut they owe to God, and those who worship in secret, but do n< acknowledge him openly. Our duty is to follow one Master, and to let all earthly interests sink into insignificance. After the service we met Rev. Peter Easton, the missionary from Persia, and his daughter. The weather was very treacherous, so that we did not go out in the evening, but retired in good season, as we were to take an early start in the morning. Mcteba^en* July 31st, we rose at 5.30, breakfasted, and were on our way to the station before 7.00 in the morning. Our train was an express, and we had to pay fifty cents each, extra, for our seats, as a lady told us they were equivalent to seats in our Pulman's. If so, the correspondence was not visible, for in no sense did they differ from the ordinary cars we had traveled all through Germany in. The train was an express, however, and moved very rapidly, taking us to Frankfort in good time. Here we had expected to stay for a day, but we decided sud- denly to go on to Weisbaden, and reached the place before 7 P.M. On our journey hither we saw women making plaster, breaking stones, working the fields, and performing all sorts of labor. We found very pleasant quarters at the Villa Mar- garetha. Weisbaden is a watering place, like our Saratoga. There are hot springs here, and the water looks and tastes very much like bouillon. Invalids resort here from all sections, the baths and waters being specifics for rheumatism and throat diseases. There are many large hotels and villas, and the pub- lic buildings are on a magnificent scale. The lovely flowers, vines and trees encompassing all the buildings are a feature f.cai'cs from My Diary. yj of the place, and these, taken together with the extensive and magnificent parks, make it a place of beauty and a joy at all seasons. My window opened out onto a balcony, and from there I looked down upon a garden in which were blooming salmon, red and white roses in great profusion, and these, mingling with English ivy and ferns, made a lovely picture. I have forgotten to record that on our way hither we passed through the Luther country — Wittenberg, Weimar and Eisnack — and only regretted our inability to stop and wander through those places so full of interest. Schiller also lived in Weimar; and Frankfort was the birthplace of Goethe, We spent a week in Weisbaden resting, and enjoying at the same time the delightful scenery and listening to the charming music furnished by the bands. At the Kursal, a large build- ing containing reading and reception rooms, located at the entrance to a magnificent park, for a mark a day, we were ad- mitted to all its privileges, including two band concerts, one in the afternoon and one in the evening, We wended our way hither every day and evening of our stay, and seated out of doors, listened to fine concerts, with the accompanying attrac- tions of a varied landscape spread out before us. In the fore- ground was a body of water, with boats plying about, a foun- tain in its center sending up its jets to a marvellous height, while beyond and on the sides were thick woods bordered by flowers of artistic hues, and walks through leafy bowers, in- tersecting its copses in every direction ; little rustic bridges spanned its small streams, and here one could stray away with a book for perfect quiet, or mingle with the crowd who gath- ered to the strains of the band. Invalids were wheeled in here by their attendants, and thus could enjoy much that at home they were deprived of. Did one wish to rise early enough to go to the springs, they could there drink the water while list- y8 Leaves fj'oni My Diary. ening to the morning concert, but as I felt no special need of the water, did not go but once. The bath-houses are well pa- tronized, and though August is not the season here, still there are hundreds of visitors in pursuit of health. At our table we met Mr. and Miss Baker from New York, and enjoyed very pleasant chats with them, Mr. B. is connected with the New York Herald., and they were both taking the baths for rheumatic troubles. We often strolled into the parks, and here are still to be seen some old Roman ruins. One day we took a long and beautiful drive, our ostensible goal being the Russian or Greek Church, Our way thither led through streets lined on either side with lovely residences, and then through woods, every tree betokening the nicest pruning and care. We found out after- ward that the Government employs foresters to care for these trees, and so there are no dead branches or leaves, no under- brush and nothing at all unsightly. Ever and anon through openings in the trees could we see the five domes of brass of the Church, each surmounted by a cross, dazzingly bright with the sun's rays. When we reached the top of the hill where the church was located, we were denied an entrance, as serv- ice was being held there. We entered later, but were quite disappointed with the interior. On August 4th, we rode in a bus as far as Sohnneberg, to visit an old Roman Castle, built in the 12th century. We passed under or through an old Roman gateway, and found the castle remarkably well preserved, and vestiges of some of the old Roman walls. We attended the English Church on Sunday, and heard a sermon from the text, " My house is a house of prayer;" The enunciation of the rector was very indistinct, but one point he emphasized was, that there were various kinds of zeal in the Church, but it is the zeal born of Leaves from My Diary. jg the Holy Spirit that is Christ's ideal. It was a very warm day, and we rested in the park, on our way home, directly op- posite the beautiful statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. A terrific thunder-storm closed the last day of our stay in Weisbaden and on the morning of August 7th, we left in a carriage for Brebrich, where we were to take the steamer for a sail down the Rhine. Down tbe IRbine. We boarded the steamer at 9,35 A. M., and were all day upon the lovely river, reaching Cologne about 6 P.M. Our own Hudson compares very favorably with it, and in many respects surpasses it. It is its many, many castles, some in ruins, some restored, which to Americans constitutes its pecu- liar charm ; we saw thirty or more of these old-time structures, and when we recalled the many legends and histories we know are connected and associated with each and everyone, there is a charm or infatuation one cannot well rid themselves of. The first fort built on the Rhine was at Bonn, by Drusus. Under Constantine Bonn was a flourishing city, and his mother built a cathedral here ; Beethoven was born here, and a monument has been erected to his memory. Only one tower of the castle of Godesburg is left standing. At Krengswinter there is the ruins of an old castle built in the i3th century, by Arnold, archbishop of Cologne. The ruins at Rolandseck furnished the subject for one of Schiller's poems. At Obervvinter one can see the thirty peaks forming the Seven Mountains, and the island Nounenwerth, on which is a Convent of the I3th century. At Reinbroke is an old castle of the family of Isenberg ; at Leinz is an old castle restored and a new one built ; and so I could go on enumerating, but it is sufficient to say that they are very picturesque and interesting and that the dream of my life was realized in seeinoj them. Cologne. Our stay here was short, but long enough for us to visit the celebrated cathedral commenced in the 13th century, and Leaves from My Diary. 8i not completed until 1880. The cost was two millions, and it is the largest Gothic structure in the world. It impresses you as one mass of delicate tracery in stone, with its carvings and flying buttresses and hundreds of turrets. We walked all around it and found our best point of view on one side, where we could, to better advantage, comprehend its vastness and take in its details. Service was being held in the church, so that we heard the fine tones of the organ, but the interior does not equal the cathedral at Milan, while its exterior surpasses it. It must be seen to be appreciated, for no description can do it justice. After a car ride about the city, we left at 2.25 P, M. for Amsterdam. Hmster&am. Alighting during the journey for an inspection of our baggage by the custom-house officers, we reached the city about 6 P. M. Two hotels we applied to for service had not even a single room unoccupied, but at the third we were ac- commodated. Our first visit was to the Royal Palace, a very unpretentious building, but very beautiful within, and the only palace which looked really home-like enough to awaken with- in me a desire for royalty. Most of the rooms were of white marble, with most beautiful carvings and statuary. The car- petings were soft and rich, the draperies and furniture cover- ings of French silk brocatelle of subdued colorings, well suit- ed to the different rooms. The palace cost thirty-one million guilders, but this does not seem strange when upon the foun- dation alone a fortune was spent. The young Qjieen Wilhel- mina only spends one month in the year here (April), as The Hague is her residence for the greater part of the time. The large reception and dining-room used on state occasions was 82 Leaves from My Diary. very rich in sculpture and carvings, and twenty or thirty Spanish flags, taken in the Thirty Years War, v^^aved on each end of the room ; the attendant called our attention to these, saying he thought we would be interested in them. The throne-room was very interesting, with a chair besides the queen's for the queen regent. We next visited the New Church, so-called, where the queen was crowned, and where her seat in church is pointed out. There is here a most ex- quisitely carved wooden pulpit, in the center of the church, and an organ with 3400 pipes, at the end. The seats were ar- ranged very peculiarly in this church — the men by themselves and the women opposite; the queen, with her ladies in wait- ing, near by, and chairs for a iiundred singers, right on the main floor. The streets of the city all converge to a square, called the Dam, This square is to Amsterdam what the Piazza San Marco is to Venice, Here are all the public buildings, Amsterdam reminds one of Venice with its canals, and in fact is called a northern Venice. Its buildings are quaint and the people hale, hearty and interesting. The canals with the roads on either side connected by bridges, the substantial look- ing houses and towering trees are so different from what you see elsewhere, that they possess a peculiar charm, and really entice you to a long stay. I would like to visit Holland again, for a short stay fails to satisfy one. At Rijk's Museum we saw Rembrandt's famous " Night Watch." In it there are tvventy figures, mostly in the shadow, their faces indicating that they were on the alert for a sur- prise. The two figures in the foreground are in the light, and there is a woman crouching, apparently in great fear. All are armed, and the coloring is fine. Another of Rembrandt's was "The Directors of the Cloth Makers." This is considered to be the finest portrait painting Leaves from My Diary. 8j in the world. I was very much interested in some of the cos- tumes worn by the Dutch. Some of the women have a sort of metal band, worn under a cap, and the band has some gild- ed ornaments, which are visible in front or on the sides of the face. While very peculiar, they give one a sort of distin- guished appearance as well as an attractive one; the young women wear blue stuff dresses, black aprons and embroidered muslin caps. We left this interesting city at 3.15 P.M. for The Hague. ITbe Ibaoue. Our journey hither was very interesting, for all over Hol- land are the canals, and it seems very picturesque to see, on either side of the track, but a little way off, large boats mak- ing their way, apparently, right through the meadows. The hotel we stopped at was a gem in its way, as there were flow- ers and palms arranged in a most artistic manner, and the dining-room opened out onto a broad piazza covered with vines, and steps from this led down into a lovely garden, where were fruits and flowers, as well as pets for the guests. My first ride was in a tram to Scheveningen, a fishing village on the shores of the North Sea. The ride was for two miles or more through an avenue of over-arching trees, and as we neared the village a most wonderful sight burst into view. It was like one of our own gay sea-side resorts, only that the beach was much more extensive than any I have seen, and evidently a very large amount of money had been expended in the erection of immense hotels, and in concreting a very broad roadway or boulevard for a long distance. Just as I reached the little ascent skirting this boulevard the rays of the setting sun were bathing the shores of this Northern Sea, and S/f. Leaves from My Diary. for beautiful colorings and vastness of stretch, its equal I had never seen. Upon the beach were hundreds of people, and after a little, lights were twinkling from thousands of win- dows, and strains of music floated upon the waves of air, as the splash of the waves broke upon the shore, and I stood as transfixed to the spot, so wierd and beautiful did it all seem. The sand upon this shore (for we made another visit here in the day-time) was as fine as silk, and the beach was covered with hundreds of those cane chairs so peculiar in appearance, yet so nice for protection from the wind and sun ; and the bathing-houses were wheeled at low tide right out into tlie water, and then horses attached at night to draw them in. A visit was paid to the House of Commons, House of Lords : and we went into the prison, where we saw the instruments of torture of the early centuries ; and then we went to the Royal Museum in the old town hall. We drove to the "Palace in the Woods," where the Peace Conference met, and were shown through the various rooms. The Orange Hall had been fitted up specially for the Conference, This seemed peculiarly significant, for the Palace in the Woods was a present from Frederick Henry, a Prince of Orange, to his wife Amelia. It was commenced in the 17th century but finished by Amelia after her husband's death, and as a monument to him the Orange Hall was called by her the Hall of Peace. In this palace were a Chinese and also a Japanese room, and also the Queen's Boudoir, all the decorations and furnish- ings of which were distinctly characteristic — those in the boudoir being all hand embroidered. August 11 we left for Rotterdam. Leaves from My Diary. 85 IRotter^am. We reached here at 10 A. M., and drove for two hours all about its docks and quays, through a park, and through the principal streets. We were very much pleased with its gene- ral appearance and greatly surprised with the vast amount of shipping here. We saw forty or fifty large steamers, and the docks were laden with merchandise, and the canals with craft of every kind. The bridges were massive and wonderful in their construction, and there were many of them. After lunch we took the 2.03 P, M. train for Antwerp, but did not stop, and pushed on to Brussels. Brussels. On our way hither, as we entered Antwerp, we saw on one side very extensive and wonderful fortifications. There were earthworks, with three stone arched gateways. The railway was elevated above the city, and the stone pillars and railings were so massive and wonderful as to elicit much com- ment as to their cost. We reached the city about 6 P. M., and were immediately driven to the hotel. After a night's rest we paid a visit to the cathedral in the morning. As there was a service being held here in one of the chapels, we dropped into one of the first chairs we saw, to wait and rest till its close. We were soon requested to rise, and when the chairs had been turned about, were told that we might sit again. These chairs were then so placed that we faced the Virgin, instead of hav- ing our backs toward her. We wished to see some very won- derful wood carvings here, but the service was so very long 86 Leaves front My Diary. that we had to leave without accomplishing our object. We took a carriage then, and drove to the Hotel de Ville, This hotel is in the gothic style, and is very imposing in its archi- tecture. We drove quite a little distance, and alighted at the Palais de Justice. This is the largest building in the world, covering 270,000 square feet, and it cost ten millions of dol- lars. It is built of white marble, and after the style of Gn- cian architecture; it was paid for by the nation; the interior is very rich and grand, and its halls of justice are on a laroe scale ; the walls, floors, stairs and ceilings are all of marble, and at the head of the stairs, as a symbol of justice, is a figure of Solomon, with two females, one on either side, both claim- ing the child, which one holds. We saw the palace of the Duke of Alva, now the residence of the brother of King Leo- pold, and also the Royal Palace, The Bourse is still another very large and elegant build- ing, in classic style. We visited the Palais of the Nations, and saw the halls where the deputies and senators meet ; w^e went into the Notre Dame and saw the Martyr's Monument ; also the garden connected with the palace ; the Mannikin Foun-! tain, the Place du Congress, and a park containing a Doric column, the base adorned with nine figures in relief, erected to commemorate the Congress of June 1831, which founded the Kingdom of Belgium. The place is enclosed with stone columns, each cut differently, and each representing the differ- ent provinces of the country and their industrial trades. After lunch we took a train to Braine L'Allend, and from there drove in a wagonette to the battlefield of Water- loo ; we passed the Lion's Mound, where five hundred of the killed are buried ; saw where the English, French and Rus- sians were stationed ; visited the Honghomount farm, the door of the house still indicating the resistance it presented to Leaves from My Diary. 8y the bullets with which it was riddled, and were shown the parts, all through the house, where the bullets had lodged. The chapel was shown us, in this connection, and the fact dwelt upon, that this was unharmed. The ravine into which the French marched to their death, is still pointed out, and the bloody field, so-called, has never been cultivated to the present day ; we spent the whole afternoon on this excursion, but were well paid for the time consumed. We attended on Sunday, August 13th, the Scotch Church. The sermon was from Joel 14:4, He spoke of Joel as the first evangelist, the first three chapters of the book showing his preparation therefor resulting from his experiences with his unfaithful wife ; the key to the whole of the book was lack of knowledge on the part of Israel. Joel brought his wife back from the lowest depths, so we are bought with a price. The prophets of old always appealed to a nation, but Christ taught us to appeal to individuals, and so Joel, who had never seen Christ, seemed to have foreseen him, and so became an evangelist, Joel did not receive his call through dreams and visions, but through an experience ; Love cannot, how- ever, make an individual seek redemption, so many reject it — and when love fails there is hell. The next morning, after going to the Bourse and post- office, we took a car for the Wertz Museum, where was a strange and most peculiar collection of paintings, "We did not tarry long, for it seemed as if the painter had portrayed the horrid and repulsive phases of life rather than the good and beautiful. As an example of the character of these paintings, was one — " Napoleon in Hell," with those whom he had wronged on earth holding up their grievances before him. Another, a man just emerging from a coffin, having pried off the lid in his agony. We went from here to the Palace of 88 Leaves from My Diary. Fine Arts, a beautiful building, with a fine collection of paint- ings and statuary. At i P, M. we left for Paris, parts. August 14th, the ride was very dusty and hot, with a visit from the custom-house officials on the frontier. We passed through a seemingly fertile country, and as we neared and en- tered France, the scenery was picturesque and lovely. Hed- ges divided the fields ; the trees were trimmed low ; and the thatched-roofed houses numerous and attractive. On the afternoon of the 15th my friend and I took a ride on the top of a bus, to get our first glimpse of the city. The climbing up the spiral staircase with the bus in motion was attended with such consequences that I did not care to repeat it for a long time after. I was so nearly thrown off my balance by the sudden lurch of the bus, that either I or my belongings had to go over into the street, and so I loosened my hold on my guide-book, and the loose leaves containing notes by the wayside, were scattered in all directions. I tried inwardly to be reconciled to my loss, but happily it was restored to me by a passing bicyclist, who dismounted, gathered up the frag- ments, motioned to the bus to stop and restored to me my guide-book, much marred, and still bearing traces of the soil of the Champs Elysees, Our ride was a success, however, after we got fully ac- customed to our aerial point of observation, and we saw the Louvre, the Arche de Triomphe, with the full length of the Champs Elysees, and then went into the Trocadero and wan- dered about in the buildings of the old Exposition, and watched the erection of the many new ones. The entrance was a col- Leaves from My Diary. 8q lonade of great extent, swelling in the center in the form of a semi-circle, then widening out for a long distance on either side ; the view from here was fine and we lingered for a long time, taking refreshments at one of the small tables. The grounds when laid out and complete will or must be very attractive and I could form some idea of the beauty in store for the visitors to Paris in 1900. The seven bridges over the Seine are fine ; the Pantheon here is a very perfect representation of the original at Rome and here is where Victor Hugo was buried ; we stood long under the central dome of the Arch of Triumph, for the view in four different directions is fine from here ; there is so much to be seen in this city, that one can hardly enumerate the buildings of interest, the parks and boulevards ; we visited the Louvre and saw the two obelisks, one marking the spot where the guillotine was erected during the French Revolution, and where Murat, Charlotte Corday, Robespierre and others were sacrificed ; we have been as far as the Bastiles and passed the famous Hotel de Ville and Statue of Joan of Arc ; we sailed upon the river Seine, stopping at the Jardins des Plants, taking a carriage from there to the Pantheon and Notre Dame ; the paintings in the Pantheon were fine ; Notre Dame was massive and grand and the columns in the interior immense in size ; we visited the Luxembourg Gallery, the sculptures here were very fine indeed, and I enjoyed them as well as any I had seen ; Pervis de Chavannes had many paintings here, the coloring of which were very peculiar, but I am not sure but that they would grow upon a person, so that they would like them ; he is considered by some as a great, if not one of the greatest painters, and some of his work is in the Boston Library : Job, by Leoni Bonnet, interested me ; Les Fonrs, by Bastian Le Paige ; the Reconnoitre of Faust and Marga- po Leaves from My Diary, rite by Tissot, and The Baptism by Renard were also interest- ing ; the statue of Joan of Arc, by Chaper, was fine. One afternoon we took the train for Versailles and under the impulse of the moment, and a suggestion from the guide- book, rode upon the top of the train ; it was an experience we did not care to repeat ; a bus from the station took us directly to the palace ; it was an immense structure and the interior was filled with a most wonderful collection of historical paint- ings ; battles scenes prevailed, but there were others of note and many, many statues ; the rooms were all very large till we came to those of Marie Antoinette, and this suite seemed very small, though cosy ; the gardens on the three sides are very ex- tensive and beautiful and the views from some of the balconies of the fountains, and in the distance the canal, with the woods on either side, is hard to describe ; we took our way from the palace through the woods to the Great and Little Trianons ; to the latter Marie Antoinette, when tired of Court life, used to come, in her straw-hat and muslin dress, to cultivate her flowers and play at being daisy maid and shepherdess ; we saw many of the Court carriages, and looked back on this trip, as one fraught with pleasure and interest ; after a stroll along the Rue Rivoli, and a vist to the shops, Aug. 19, we spent much time in the gallery of the Louvre ; the Coronation of Josephine by David, The Happy Family, by Murillo, Christ on the Cross by Reubens, and The Immaculate Conception, by Murillo, in- terested me; the original statue Venus de Milo is very beauti- ful, though lacking the arms ; the paintings of Messonier are among the choicest of the modern ones. We drove for an hour, the whole length of the Champs Elysees, and it was to me a long-remembered ride — one continuous scene of beauty greeting the eyes its entire length, Sunday. August 20th, we attended services at the Ameri- Leaves from. My Diary. qi can Church, hearing a most interesting sermon from Psalm 84: T I ; Rev. Mr. Nason from Philadelphia, preached. Rev. Mr, Thurber being away on his vacation ; after commenting on the sun as the object which all the ancient nations worshiped, he raised the query, why this was ; his answer was they worship- ed what they saw ; it was the source of all power, and it was natural that what they saw that they were dependent upon for heat, for life, for wind and wave, they intuitively worshiped; then came the scientists and told us that the sun was a nebulous mass, a massive bonfire; before this, however, the children of Israel were forbidden to worship the sun ; men then said, if we cannot worship the sun, which we can see we will worship nothing ; we cannot see God ; then the question came. Can we really see the sun ? We can see the power of the sun in everv- thing, but are blinded if we try to see the sun itself; God is the sun, the source of all life, power and order; God is in everything and in all our ways ; why can we not believe that not one sparrow falleth to the ground without His knowledge or that the very hairs of our head are all numbered, when as with the solar system, even the minutest planet is held in place by the s^. The afternoon found us in Westminster Leaves from My Diary. pj- Abbey, the place my dear mother had always longed to visit, and her sweet memory enveloped me and lent a sad, sweet in- terest to all its strangely fascinating and historic surroundings, the only national place of sepulture in the world; this magni- ficent Gothic Church is the only spot whose monuments epito- mize a national history. As we entered the Abbey in the main aisle (or nave), we passed over the slab in the floor marking Gladstone's grave. On the sides against the wall are monu- ments to England's illustrious men — soldiers, officers, heroes and statesmen; then you come to the Poet's Corner, where in the south transept we find the names of Chaucer, Spenser, Addison, Campbell, Longfellow, Browning and very many others ; with a guide we passed through an iron gate into the enclosure set apart for kings and queens. The tombs of Ed- ward the Confessor, Edward I and III, Henry V and VII, Elizabeth and Mary Qjiieen of Scots are only a few of the long lines of royal kings and queens, whose memories are per- petuated in marble carvings of varied and wonderful designs. The next morning found us on our way to the celebrated Tower of London. It is thought by some that a fortress was commenced on this spot by Julius Caesar, but though this is not definitely affirmed, it is known that in 1066, William the Conqueror constructed such an one and that he erected the White Tower twelve years after this. After entering the gates, which were guarded by soldiers, we crossed the moat. Here the officer scanned us thoroughly and requested us to re- move even our chatelaine bags and leave them at the entrance. Afterwards I saw a man with a kodak, which he must have smuggled in, trying to get a snap shot at a company of Eng- lish soldiers who were drilling, but he was evidently approach- ed by the officer on guard and reproved for his audacity. The White Tower is near the center of the fortress, and surmount- p6 Leaves from My Diary. ed by four turrets ; the fortress looks like a small military town with its barracks, store houses, sheds, buildings and large guns, batteries and armories. The whole area consists of twelve acres. Ascending the stairs, we saw all kinds of guns and implements of war and also the instruments of torture used in former centuries. Among these were the neck band, the stocks, the grlls, for neck, arms and legs, and the stretchers, capable of literally tearing the body apart. On the floor above were various kinds of armors for men and horses used in the 13th, 14th, 15th and i6th centuries; those actually worn by Henry the VII, Charles I, and Henry VIII interested me great- ly ; some were beautifully engraved, some fluted and all were very handsome ; there were also German armors, some of which were made of a kind of wooden fibre lined with metal ; across the yard was the building where so many noted persons were confined, among them being Lady Jane Grey, and here we saw many insignia cut by them in the stone walls during their confinement. In the yard was the spot marked where the scaffold was erected on which Anne Boleyn, Catharine of Arragon and Lady Jane Grey were executed; in the White Tower we saw also the Crown Jewels ; the crown of Victoria, of the Prince Consort and of Edward the ist w^ere the most noticable, but the glitter of innumerable gems seemed but to intensify the remembrance of the terrible tragedies enacted in former times within these same walls. Our afternoon was sp^^nt in a visit to the South African Exhibition. This was quite like an exposition, as there were many buildings filled with all sorts of exhibits, from Australia and Victoria land, There were frozen fruits, grain, meat and woods indigenous to these climes. There were also woods and ore.s, some of tlie nuggets of gold representing large sums. This exhibition, I suppose, was mainly to advertise the different Leaves from My Diary. gy mines, and so the methods of working claims were here illus- trated and the art of wood turning. There was a lake in the center of the enclosure, with pagodas in which were stationed three bands, each discoursing music alternately. Boats in the form of swans were plying across the water, flowers of every hue were blooming hereabouts, and with small buildings where you could purchase all sorts of oriental articles, the whole scene made a very pleasing and fantastic picture. In connection with this there was an entertainment, giving a glimpse of real life in South Africa. First there were brought before us the trained animals ; the horses went through a series of evolutions, dancing to music in the figure of a cotillion and waltzing with the diflFerent steps in such perfection as to make one wonder at their knowledge ; next came the trained elephants and these so skillfully obeyed the word of their trainer as to make it seem as if they must surely think as well as hear ; they left the stage, bearing the body of their trainer carefully on their trunks, one the head the other the feet, he having been shot and apparently killed. A battle between 40 or 50 native South Africans and the white men ensued, which was very realistic. The Africans fought under cover on the mountain, but when overpowered, dropped from the heights into the water below, and swimming to the shore, if able from their wounds to make any headway. The oxen and wagons fording the stream gave us a glimpse of the real life in that far-oflf country. We then visited the krawls of these same natives. They were built of clay and mud, with no opening for smoke or fires, as their fires are built outside. There was not an article of furniture inside, but in this rude way they live and seem to be happy after their fashion. August 26th, my friend and I visited the Soule Collection of Curiosities and Paintings. This collection is in a house and C)8 Leaves from My Diary. is a most remarkable one. It is just as the owner left it, and contains many paintings by Turner, Hobart and others, rare manuscripts and coins, pottery and sarcophagi, gems, etc. The divisions between the different rooms are so arranged as to open like doors, the interior disclosing one set after another, and each hung with paintings. Among the rare manuscripts was one in Tasso's own hand writing. We visited the House of Parliament in the afternoon. This immense structure, so beautiful to gaze upon from with- out, surprises you when you enter and pass tlirough, with its seeming lack of spaciousness. Neither the House of Lords or House of Commons seem large. The House of Lords is very handsome, while the House of Commons seems quite plain and simple. The fact is, that there are not nearly seats enough for its members, and were the whole constituency present many would have to stand. There are lobbies for each, and halls hung with paintings. We went into the ancient Westminster Hall, where in the olden times were held the Royal revels at Christmas and where the great State trials took place. Here Cromwell was inaugurated as Lord Protector, and Charles I was condemned to death. A sail on the Thames, as far as Greenwich, finished our sight-seeing for the day. We went under the famous London Bridge and had a fine view of many of the handsome and massive buildings and also gained a good idea of the shipping interest on the Thames. Sunday morning found us on our way to the City Temple, Dr. Parker's Church. Rev. J. H. Jowitt, from Birmingham, preached. His text was from Cor. 15 : 55th to the 58th verses, and the first clause of the i6th chapter. " Now concerning the collection.'' He commenced by asking the question whether these two themes seemed incongruous, and then went on to prove that one was a direct result of the other, or Leaves from My Diary. pg in other words that beneficence flowed when the ground of our belief was in the resurrection of Christ, and could not flow when there were no springs in the hills, the fountain-head. He added, that as there was not the tiniest bit of glass imbed- ded in the earth, but what could reflect the beauties of the sun's rays, so there was not the lowliest duty preformed, but reflects the light and loveliness of the risen Saviour. There is a natural dread of death, and everyone, high and low, instinc- tively shrinks from it. No one can escape its resistless grasp. Christ rose and burst its fetters and in Him is the spring, the source of the river of life, that robs death of its sting and the grave of its victory. He criticised Robert Elsmere as trying to evolve beneficence without a river. He read what he called a classical extract from John Wesley and said Methodism commenced when his heart began to warm towards the Lord, and that all missionary societies sprung up after his life-work was done. He gave his life to beneficent works and so con- cerning the collection was a fit result of the belief in the re- surrection. The Church was a large one, the day very warm and yet there was not a vacant seat in either the body of the church or the six tiers of seats in the gallery, and every one on entering was handed the order of exercises and a hymn-book. The choir was a large one, with four solo singers, an organ, two violins and a cornet, and everyone in the assembly joined heartily in the singing of the hymns and in the responsive service, and so close was the attention given to the preacher, that a pin drop could have been heard. His evening text was " If Christ be not risen," i Cor. 15 :t4. Our faith was some- times strengthened by considering the negative side of a truth. He emphasized belief, in contrast to mere opinions. They were like the difference between a burning fire and a pail of coal. An opinion would not change any more than the pail of 100 Leaves from My Diary. coal the temperature, but a belief was like a burning fire. If he and his friend each had conservatories, but his friend was piped for heating and his was not, they could both grow flowers and fruit during the summer time, but when the win- ter came his would show the need of heat. Those who really believed in their lives manifested to the world their ability to show forbearance in Gethsemane and forgiveness on Calvary. His next point was that when these moral and spiritual virtues were thus exemplified such persons were believing a delusion if Christ were not risen. Death was called by the Psalmist, a shadow, but Christ called it a sleep. It was but the entrance into life. The widow feels confident that she will meet her partner in life on the other side, the prodigal rejoices in a new heart, and this aged pilgrim dies, saying, I know that my Redeemer liveth. Do these all believe a delusion } If Christ lives, we live in him and nothing is impossible for us. Let us open our hearts to him and live in him and we ^\vA\kiio~jo that we are his. He spoke of his visit to Loch Lomond and said as he looked, it seemed to him to be land-locked and as if he could walk round it in a short time. He stooped down, however, and picked up some seaweed. By this, he knew that it open- ed into the sea, and this was like death opening out into the wider and fresher life. He said a swallow returns each year, upon a certain day to build her nest in the old place, but leaves with equal regularity, to go South. How does she know that there is a South ? Instinct we say tells her and it is no de- lusion. If we believe that Christ is risen from the dead, then shall we know, .md shall believe no delusion. Monday morning we paid a visit to the Bank of England. This irregular structure covers four acres and within its walls nine hundred persons are employed. The afternoon found us in the National Gallery, where one room is filled with Turner's Leaves from My Diary. loi paintings and where in the others, I admired so much Sir Ed- ward Landseer's and Sir Joshua Reynolds' pictures of animals. The British Museum was but a little ways from Russell Square and we could walk there in a few miuutes. On our first visit we saw famous marble columns and statues from the far East, The Ionic columns and friezes from the Temple of Diana in- terested me greatly. The mausoleums were wonderful, and the famous Rosetta stone, the key to all ancient inscriptions. We spent an hour or two in the afternoon, at Madame Tos- saud's wax works, but were quite disappointed. Aug. 30th, we had to bid adieu to one of our party, as he took the train for Liverpool, sailing for home at 5 p.m. on the steamer Germanic. After being housed with a severe cold, 1 ventured out on Sept. 3nd, into the British Museum for a little time, and saw a great many mummies wrapped as I had never seen before. In one room was everything pertaining to the Buddhist, the Shintoo and the Jean worship, and here I tarried quite a while. In the Library were original charts, illuminated books, public documents and very many ancient royal signatures. In one case was a set of chessmen, the oldest in the world, dating back to 700 A. D. Sept 3rd, we attend- ed the City Temple and heard the Rev. J. G. Greenhough of Leicester, preach from Lam. 3 : 26. In the afternoon we attended service at St. Paul's Cathe- dral, the third in size in the world. On the outside (the effect of the London smoke) it looks dull and grimy. It was thirty- five years in building and the height from the street to the top of the cross is 404 feet. The interior is rich and handsome. The singing by the boy choir was very fine, but we lost much of the sermon, preached by the Rev. H. S. Holland, from Acts 2 142, on account of the many echoes. On the sides of the church are many tombs, one to Major Chinese Gordon. In 102 Leaves from My Diary. front of the church within the enclosure stands the statue of Queen Anne, in whose reign, t7^^> ^'^^ Cathedral was com- pleted. Sept. 4th, we took the train for Hampton Court, a ride of about thirteen miles. Here was where Cardinal Woolsey and Oliver Cromwell lived, but it is now occupied by pension- ers of the crown. It is most beautifully located and the grounds are very extensive and beautifully laid out. We went to see the famous grape vine planted in the time of George the III. It is 131 years old and is trained under glass, covering a large space. Fine clusters of ripe, luscious grapes hung in great profusion, and we longed to taste but one, but they were all reserved for the Qjieen. Entering this once famous palace we saw man)' of the State rooms, and the view from the win- dows was just charming. In one of the rooms were many of Titian's and Tintoretti's paintings. We drove from there through Bushy Park, where were hundreds of deer, all pro- tected, for the parks are owned by the Queen, and thrown open to her subjects. The deer seemed to be very tame, one of them eating out of my hand. Our ride was continued through Kensington, through Richmond Park, to the famous Botoni- cal Gardens and Conservatories at Kew. These gardens cover 75 acres and the parks or pleasure grounds 270 acres more. The great Palm House is 362 feet long, 100 broad and 66 high, while the Temperate House is nearly as large. On our way back to the city we passed the famous Star and Garter Hotel. A visit to the South Kensington Museum revealed a fine dis- play of ancient marbles, carved woods, pieces of furniture of the fifteenth, sixteenth and seventeeth centuries, fine stained glass, china and wares of all kinds, as well as various paint- ings. Sept. 6th, we went to the Tate Museum, where there were Leaves from My Diary. loj many pictures of great merit. This building is charmingly located, overlooking the Thames, and is of itself quite a work of art. We took a cab home and drove through a most terrific thunder storm. The next afternoon we visited the Zoologi- cal Gardens. We dined at the Holborn Restaurant. The Holborn is a veritable palace, with grill rooms, waiting and drawing rooms, and here many come in full dress, ready to go to the Opera. The band discoursed pleasant music and for our benefit played many of our National airs, which we were not slow in applauding. Sept. 9th, we paid a visit to the Guildhall, where the annual Lord Mayor's dinner takes place. We saw Gog and Magog, the carved wooden images, which were formerly carried about in the Lord Mayor's procession. They were carved in 1708. We wandered through " Cheapside " on emerging from the hall, but do not understand the signficance of the name, as the shops seemed to be of a high grade, for the most part, and the prices as high as in other localities. At the Marylebone church we heard Dr. Newman Hall preach from Heb. i3 ;i. The next day we went in the cars about eight miles to Sydenham, to visit the Crystal Palace. Here is a series of en- tertainments every day during the year. There is also a fine display of machinery and exhibits of all kinds. I was parti- culary interested in what might be called a side show, for there was an extra charge. It was a collection of ants, some colonies of them being exhibited. Through powerful magni- fying glasses they could be seen to advantage, their workings bordering on the marvellous. There was the queen, and her will was undisputed. Armies or colonies of them seemed to be put to death at her will, and their place of burial was a mound in one corner of their section. On Sept. 12th, we left London for a trip of the British Isles. 104. Leaves from My Diary. Ube Britisb IFsles. At II a.m. we left on the Great Eastern Railway, for Cambridge, arriving there in time for the luncheon. The Hotel Bull was not far from King's College, to which we strolled soon after getting settled. This is only one of the seventeen Colleges, built in the Gothic style, the Chapel being furnished with buttresses and with very fine carvings. The interior has a wonderful ceiling, carved oak paneling, lovely stained glass windows and an organ in the middle of the church, which strikes one as very peculiar. An iron gate and wall separates Clare College. Here the buildings are less artistic, but the grounds are even handsomer. There is a long walk leading down to the river, with trees overarching it its whole length. Looking up and down tlie river Cam, from one of the manv bridges spanning the stream, the view is charming. Tlie old- est of the colleges, I believe, is Trinity, and this one we found covered with English ivy, and built in the form of a castle with its battlements. The Prince of Wales was educated here, and I think had his home with the Dean of the College. Here are parks, avenues, fountains and courts, and the whole aspect is very attractive. After %vandering about a little, we took a boat and rowed up and down the river, pass- ing under nine rustic bridges and as the bank on one side was turfed down to the stone facing and the English ivy and vines on the other trailed in the water; it was as lovely and pic- turesque a scene as could ever be imagined. Our next point of view was the great Cathedral at Ely. It is the longest Gothic Church in Europe. It was commenced in the nth century, The Gallilee Porch was completed in the T2th cen- Leaves from My Diary. lo^ tury and the Norman choir in the 13th. No part was built in later than the 14th century, and there are all periods of Gothic architecture here represented from the early Norman, pure English decorated, down to the perpendicular. The carvings of stone in the Lady Chapel are very fine, but everywhere are niches, from which the images have been torn down and de- stroyed, and all the heads of figures remaining have been knocked off since the Reformation. The paintings on the ceil- ing of the nave give the story of the Creation. Xincoln. We took the train for Lincoln, arriving there about 2.30 p.m. and drove immediately to the Cathedral. It is very differ- ent from the Ely Church, and from the outside does not seem near as imposing. Different portions were built from the i ith to the 15th century. The Angel Choir is one mass of tracery in stone. The stained glass is from the 13th century and the rose window is very beautiful. The Cloisters date back to the same century, and there is a chapel in which is a chair used by the early Edwards. Excavations have been made and an old Roman mile-post unearthed, that was buried eight feet deep. Queen Eleanor is buried here, the one for whom crosses were erected all along the way, as her body was borne hither. Just in sight of the Cathedral was the Newport Gate, a fine rem- nant of the Roman architecture. We went up into the old tower and into the castle, to the top of the Roman wall, which is wonderfully preserved. Down through a hole in the floor, prisoners were let down into the prison. Everywhere was noticable the same abhorrence of images. At Lincoln we saw many very old buildings, and the signs in front of inns, we io6 Leaves from My Diary. had read about so often. We reached our third cathedral - town, York, late in the evening. l^or??. Sept. 13th, we stopped at the '^ Black Swan," and no one could mistake the place, as the "swan" swung on hinges above the door. The cathedral here covers two and a half acres of ground, and was two centuries and a half in building. It has the largest stained glass window in the world. It was built over two churches, the Saxon of the 7th century and Norman of the nth, while the perpendicular is of the 13th century. Down in the crypt, you can see the columns of the old church cut off. There are also some of the old foundation-stones of the 7th century, and also some of the old Norman. Many old buildings interested us on our way to the Cathedral, one house bearing the date 1410. We took a drive around the city after luncheon and saw the Lord Mayor's house, the cattle market, the old walls and gate of the city, and very many objects of interest. We got out at the Gardens of the Yorkshire Philo- sophical Society, and spent a long time wandering through these extensive gardens, beautiful in themselves, but specially interesting as they contain the ruins of the Abbey of St. Mary. This was my first near view of a ruin, and as its broken arches, draped with the clinging English ivy, burst upon my view, I exclaimed that in this was my ideal realized. The Abbey must have covered an immense area, been colossal in structure and transcendent in beauty. These grounds also contained the ruins of a castle and also of a hospital. The Abbey was built in the nth century. Clifford's Tower, where five hundred Jews were imprisoned, we saw on our drive. These Jews destroyed Leaves from My Diary. loy themselves by immolation rather than submit to a blood-thirs- ty mob. This took place it 1190. Durbam. This was our next stopping place, but when we reached there the rain was falling in torrents, so we took carriage direct to the Cathedral. This, as well as the Castle, another point of interest, was located on the crown of a high hill. The Cathedral belongs to the nth century, and is mostly pure Nor- man work. The carvings are what they call dog-toothed, and the piers or columns short and massive with ornamentations of zigzagged and latticed designs. The rain continuing, we were prevented from visiting the castle, and so we took the train for Melrose. /iDelrose. This place we reached a little before 8 o'clock, stopping at the Melrose Abbey Hotel. A cheerful fire was burning in the parlor grate, and after dinner we gathered here, with pleasant English people, enjoying both the warmth and cheer. The rain suddenly ceased, and one of the ladies raised the curtain, calling attention to the beautiful moonlight. It was my first view of Melrose Abbey. If one could ever picture a more lovely scene, I have failed to see or know of it. I went up to my room and there looked out upon the five arches of the Abbey forming a collonade, the tops covered with soil and overgrown with tall grass. Pinnacles rise from the main roof ; there were flying buttresses, and surmounting all, a broad section of stone-work, with three openings, the whole io8 Leaves from My Diary. overgrown with ivy. The moon was shining brightly and when I retired, I raised my curtain so that many times during the night, when I was wakened, I could take in this view from my bed. The early morning found me within the Abbey grounds, and though much is really gone, still much remains and the carvings have been wonderfully preserved. I saw the famous kneeling stone, where Sir Walter Scott sat when he wrote ''The Lay of the Last Minstrel" ; and the carvings in the cloister, no two of which are alike, all of which are as perfect as if fresh from the sculptors's hand. There are no two arches alike in the Ahbey, no two win- dows the same, and yet all form one harmonious whole. In one of the windows, at a certain angle, you can see three crosses, representing Calvary. The keystone of one of the arches is the head of Christ. At one point, the guide shows you a perfect hand holding flowers, and the stone carving re- presents the various grains and cereals of the country. You can see the stairs leading up to the choirs or corridors, where the processions of monks chanted, and also the opening through which these same moaks fled in time of danger, and through which they could go to the Tweed for water. Here are also the graves of Alexander II of Scotland, and several of the Earls of Douglas. The heart of King Robert Bruce is said to have been placed before the high altar. One visit to this Abbey did not suffice for me, for it seemed to exert over me a strange and powerful fascination. A grave yard surrounded it on two sides, and there were here some very old stones and some very peculiar epitaphs. We drove in an open coach to Abbotsford, the home of Sir Walter Scott. It is a drive of about three miles. The air was crisp and cool, the party a very pleasant one, and tlie country through which we passed very charming. There were several little villages or Leaves from My Diary. ion hamlets, with the village kirk, surrounded by low houses built of stone, one and a half stories high, with red-tiled roofs and vines running over them. In the yard in front were varieties of flowers carefully cultivated and trained on the houses with the vines, the same blush rose I had seen in England. These villages dotting the landscape with hill and dale, made a very pretty picture. At last, gleaming through the trees, we caught sight of the river Tweed, which winds in and out through the grounds at Abbotsford, and in a few moments we were at the entrance. After quite a walk, we gained entrance, and were met by a typical old Scotchman, who gave us much at- tention and conducted us through the various rooms of this stately mansion. The ceiling of the library is of hard wood, richly carved, the designs being drawn by Sir "Walter, and taken from the Abbey. There are many portraits on the walls, one of his oldest son, in uniform. Here also are many rare curios. In the Armory, the walls are hung with swords, spurs, guns, pistols, powder flasks and weapons of all kinds. In the drawing-room are cabinets, water-colors and portraits of noted people. In his study are his writing table and chair, many of his books, and there is a staircase leading to a little upper-room, to which he could retire when weary, without dis- turbing the members of his family. Our ride back to the ho- tel was uneventful. A gentleman had said to me at Melrose, I think ''Edin- burg is the most beautiful city in the world." While I could not say this, I do say that it is most delightfully located, and that the view from my window at the Royal McGregor hotel, I would like to see reproduced, and think it would compare favorably with any landscape I have ever seen on canvas. Sunday morning we drove to what was pointed out to us as John Knox's Church, but upon being told that he never preach- no Leaves from My Diary. ed in it, so we made our way to St. Andrew's, passing John Knox's house on the way. We heard quite an interesting sermon from Matt. i6:i8. At the conclusion of the service we went into St. Giles Cathedral, where John Knox really did preach, and saw the spot from which the stool was hurled at his head by Jenny Geddes. There was a fine organ here and we heard a little of the service. The weather during the after- noon was so fickle that we did not venture out. 1boli(?roo& palace. Monday, Sept. i8th was a holiday, and all the shops and restaurants were closed. We rode to Holyrood Palace and saw the rooms occupied by Lord Darnley and Mary Queen of Scots. A dark stairway leads to Mary's rooms, most of which are small and very plainly furnished. Here is preserved her bed, dressing and audience rooms. Her private dining room is shown where Rizzio was dragged from the table and murder- ed in the hall. A private special staircase leads to some of these rooms. The old Royal Chapel is the best preserved part of the Abbey and this was to me full of interest. It is roofless, but many broken columns still stand. A beautiful door and window and many finely chiselled fragments remain to sug- gest its former glory and beauty. The floor consists of the tombstones of some of the old Scottish nobility, and here Darnley sleeps. How many royal marriages and coronations have taken place within these walls and what pageants could the walls speak might they reveal.? We next visited Edin- burg Castle, from which is a most magnificent view of the city. The castle is a strong natural fortress, built upon a great ba- Leaves from My Diaiy. iii saltic rock, 383 ft. above sea level. It is now used as barracks for soldiers. We passed over the moat and saw the prison where so many noble men were formerly incarcerated. Near the entrance was the famous cannon '' Mous Meg," used in 1497, at the seige of Norham Castle, restored to the castle from London Tower through the petition of Sir Walter Scott in 1829. We passed to the ramparts, and heard the Scotch bag- pipes and bugle calls. In a little room on the ground floor James I of England was born in 1566. In the crown room are kept the regalia of Scotland. We visited the National Gallery in the afternoon and took a ride of about three miles out into the country. Salisbury Craig. We drove, Sept. 19, to Salisbury Craig, from which we had a fine view of the German Sea, the river Forth and the towns and villages below in the valley. The scene was a memorable one, the immense precipices or craigs on one side and the love- ly fertile valleys on the other. We drove to Calton Hill, which is 35^ feet above the level of the sea, and laid out in vari- ous walks and covered with several monuments. Lord Nelson's is in form something like a Dutch churn, Burns" is very artistic and the still uncompleted National Monument to the heroes of the battle of Waterloo consists of twelve Doric columns and is called the monument to "Scotland's pride and poverty." Descending the hill we passed the Royal High School and then through High Street, the old part of the city, stopping at the hall of the House of Parliament. The ceiling is of dark carved oak, resting on quaint sculptured corbels that resemble flying buttresses. At one end of the hall is a window, with a picture of James V, founding the College of Justice, and all 112 Leaves from My Diary. around the sides are statues of judges, lawyers and statemen. In the pavement of the Court is the stone marking the burial place of John Knox, and farther on stones arranged in the form of a heart, known as the famous Heart of Midlothian. During our ride we saw the house of Jennie Dean, a character in Scott's novels, and the possessions of a famous Scot whose name I do not recall, who lost all his estates in betting on horses, but who regained them by playing cards. He has planted trees in the form of an ace of clubs. The famous Scott monument is a very fine specimen of florid Gothic work, and cost over $80,000. On Prince Street is also a statue to Livingstone. Prince street is a broad avenue, one mile long, lined on one side with fine buildings, shops and hotels. On the other, tlie East and West Princess Street. On this highway are the Royal Institution and the National Gallery. The first is an oblong- square Doric temple, with a colossal statue of the Qjieen over its pediment, the other is an Ionic structure of great beauty. Stirling Castle, Late in the afternoon we left here for Stirling, where we spent the night. After breakfast we took a carriage and drove to Stirling Castle. When we reached there a company of the Scotch Highlanders were drilling, as they had just been ordered to the front in South Africa. The regiment to be left at the castle seemed to feel very jealous of those who had been ordered to move on, and in fact the enthusiasm and loyal- ty of the soldiers everywhere to their Qiieen was very much in evidence. The view from the walls of the castle is said to be unsurpassed in Great Britain, and as we looked forth upon the mountains and then upon the vales, catching glimpses of Leaves from My Diary . iij the river Forth, as it wound among the hills, and saw the ruins of an Abbey, the Wallace monument and the Abbey Craig, the Bridge of Allan and field of Bannockburn, we could but exclain at its loveliness and beauty. The castle was the birth-place of James II and V, and it was the favorite residence of James IV. You are shown the window through which the lifeless body of William, Earl of Douglas, assassinated by James II, was thrown into the yard below. Mary Qjieen of Scots lived in this castle, and this was where Parliament used to be held. On our way down from the castle, we looked into the old Grayfriar's Church, within the walls of which James VI was crowned, John Knox preaching the coronation sermon. We took the train for Aberfoyle about ii a.m. and lunched there on our arrival. From here we drove seven-and-a-half miles in an open coach to Loch Katrine. The senery was wild but fine all along the way, and the deep gorges of the Trossacks reminded me of the gorges in our own Rockies. The steamer Rob Roy is an open steamer which plies on Loch Katrine. On a hot summer day, it must be perfectly charming on this lake, but the wind blew and the clouds occasionally dropped rain, so that the elements detracted not a little from our pleasure. N"otwith- standing all of these drawbacks, the scenery was grand. The mountains on one side were covered with a green moss and on the other with trees and luxuriant verdure. It was so cold and chilly, when we reached the end of the lake, that we felt inclined to spend the night at the hotel here. We finally de- cided to press on to Inversnaid, and so took places on the coach, well provided with wraps and rubber blankets. The sun shone out brightly for our start, but we had not proceeded far, when a dark cloud overhung us, and mutterings of thunder were heard. All at once the storm broke upon us in great ii/f. Leaves front My Diary. fury, and a deluge of water seemed let down upon us from the clouds. With umbrellas and blankets, we managed to keep from being drenched, and then the sun appeared as suddenly as it was hidden, and a beautiful rainbow overarched the sky. We spent the night at a very nice hotel, and in the parlor, where a bright fire was burning in the grate, met fellow travelers from New Bedford, with whom we had pleasant converse. In the early morning, I was wakened by the fall of rushing water, and on looking out of my window had a fine view of Loch Lomond, and the hills surrounding it. This did not, however, account for the splashing sound of water, and so I dressed and followed the path up the hill into the woods, across a little rustic bridge, where I stood as if entranced at the sight before me, of the Falls, the scene of Wordsworth's poem of The Highland Girl. The rest of the party were soon on the spot, and here were lovely ferns, flowers and trees, and farther up, it was said, a cave, called Rob Roy's Prison. We had a good appetite for breakfast, and at nine o'clock were ready to take the steamer for a sail of 3i miles on this queen of Scottish lakes. The lake is dotted with many islands and the mountains encircle it, jutting out here and there as head- lands, forming inlets of varied outlines and contour, the whole reminding me more of Lake George than of any place I had ever visited. Among our fellow passengers were a Rev. and Mrs. Clark, English people, who had been as Methodist missionaries in South Africa, for i8 years. As Africa was the theme uppermost in most everyone's mind at the time, this chance opportunity of hearing from the lips of residents of that section of the world was improved, and many facts of interest gleaned from the conversation. At Balloch we dis- embarked and took the train for Glasgow, reaching there in time for luncheon. We paid a visit to the Cathedral in the Leaves frotn My Diary. ii^ afternoon, built in the I3th century. On our way to the city, we had a good view of the Clyde and of the shipbuilding there. Glasgow is a great industrial and commercial center. Its population is more than half a million. Near the Cathe- dral is the '•' I^ecropolis," an ornamental cemetery on a pro- jecting height, approached by the Bridge of Sighs. As you look up from the Cathedral grounds, the view of lofty columns and monuments, the latest being that of John Knox, rising to a great height upon this rocky craig, itself over 300 feet high, is so strangely, peculiar and imposing, that you long to wan- der through its avenues, with the shrubbery clinging to and imbedded in its rocks, but the rain prevented us from in- dulging our wishes, and so, with a long gaze from the Cathe- dral door, we turned our steps toward the carriage and were driven to the hotel. A ride around the city the next morning revealed the Municipal Building in George Square, the Post Office, Bank and a colossal monument to Sir Walter Scott, beside many bronze statues and the equestrian statues of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. The buildings in process of erection, for the coming Exposition, we had also a good view of. On to Ayr. Ayr was our next objective point, and on arriving there we drove out to the home and birth-place of Robert Burns. This was a little one story house, the kitchen retaining its old- time appearance. The floor was of stone, and in a niche in the wall on the side of the room was the place for a bed, and it was here where Burns saw the first rays of light. The fire- place remains as it was, and there is a dresser of ye olden-time standing in the room. The original door opening into the ii6 Leaves from My Diary, next room is well preserved and also one window. Burns' mother's spinning wheel and reel are here. We drove to the tomb of Robert Burns, passing on the way, the ruins of the old Kirk, where his parents attended church, and where their tombstone can still be seen. Burns' tomb is in the center of an ornamental garden, and is a very imposing monument. The Bridge of Doon is but a little way off and also the shell grotto. Ayr is very pleasantly located, and its low thatched-roofed cottages looked very attractive and inviting all along the two miles of our drive. Ube IFrisb Sea» At 6.30 we left on the train for Stranahar, where at 8.30 we were to take the steamer for Larne. The Irish Sea, at best, is very choppy and the passage, though of short duration, tempestuous and greatly dreaded, but the winds had been blowing for days and the skies lowering so that it seemed as if "old boreas" had lashed these waves into such a fury as al- most to defy the passage of any craft, however staunch, through her treacherous waters, I had expected a rough passage, but roughness would not begin to convey any idea of the sea we encountered. The steamer was lifted up upon the crest of a wave, only to be almost submerged the next minute in the trough of the sea, and the power of the waves was so great as they dashed and broke on the sides of the boat, and then swept over the decks, as to make one feel as if the cabin would be no barrier to their force at their next onslaught. Eighty minutes of such discomfort was enough to remember for a life- time. After a ride in the cars of a half an hour, we reached Belfast about 11. 15 p.m. A jaunting car was the only con- Leaves from My Diary. iiy veyance available here. The Irish seem to like these modes of conveyance, but I felt as if I should be thrown forward in- to the street and so begged the driver to walk his horse to prevent such a catastrophe. The hotel was reached at mid- night. Belfast. Sept. 23rd found us in this second city in Ireland. Upon the principal street was a very fine department store, which we entered. The gentleman in charge treated us with great attention, and showed us some very fine linen, one specimen, having hundreds of different ferns as the designs, and another the fruits of the country. He then sent a boy with us to the top of the building, from which we had a charming view of the city, and then were shown the different rooms where they were weaving rugs, napkins, and making up under-clothing, hundreds being employed in the different industries. We were shown the flax as it grows and all the processes through which it passes, even to the women carding it, and the typical Irish- men weaving it into napkins. The following day was Sunday, and it rained hard all day. We rode to the Presbyterian Church, and when the minister mounted the pulpit, I thought we were to have a fine sermon. His theme seemed to be that we were to be a peculiar people, and I thought his church met the requirements, for it was a Cummunion service, and no one was invited to partake, and the symbols were passed only to those occupying the central tier of seats. Such coldness and exclusiveness affected me strangely, and when he told his people to look upon Jesus and they would become like him, I woundered whether the Sa- viour's invitation was limited to such an exclusive set. it8 Leaves from My Diary. The next morning we took the train for Port Rush, tlien to the Giant's Causeway, seven miles by electric railway. The scenery all along the shore, after leaving Port Rush, was wild, rocky, but interesting. The Giant's Causeway was dis- appointing in a way, although one of Nature's prodigies. The formation is of basalt rock, and very peculiar in that the layers are lengthwise, the round stones, each separate, being laid one on top of the other, as if laid by hand. The same conditions exist in Fingal's Cave. One to get the best views, ought to approach the causeway in a boat, but as the weather forbade this in our case, the idea we had formed from the pictures seen, were not realized. At the table we found a Catholic Priest from Pittsburg, who made himself very agreeable, and whom we afterwards found was stopping at the same hotel we were in Belfast. We reached here at nine in the evening, and left the next afternoon for Dublin. Dublin. The ride was for 112 miles through a very fertile country, the scenery along the route, being varied and beautiful. Though so late in the fall, Sept. 26th, the grain was not har- vested nor the potatoes dug. So little sunshine prevents the crops from maturing. The next morning after our arrival we sauntered out across the O'Connor bridge to Trinity College. These grounds cover 42 acres, and the library is particularly fine. It contains 300,- 000 volumes, and some very rare manuscripts. We saw the edition of the four Gospels of the eight century, beautifully illustrated and wonderfully preserved. They were found hid- den in a monastery. We went into the chapel ; it was a very interesting place, but seemed rather small to accommodate the Leaves from My Diary. iig students of a large college. On inquiry I found that the students were not required to attend worship. The Parliament, or old House of Lords, was an interest- ing spot, as connected so closely with the history of the past, but the Irish feel deeply their non-representation in the affairs of the kingdom at the present time. St. Patrick's Cathedral stands on the same site as that formerly occupied by a church built by the celebrated saint. This edifice was built in the I3th century and has been restored by a Dublin brewer, who has spent seven hundred thousand dollars on the work. On our way to this spot, we passed through a narrow alley, where we saw the lowest grade of Irish peasants and met with squalor and filth. The Castle next claimed our attention, and one tower remains just as it has always been. This is called the Wardrobe Tower, and dates back to 12 13. The chapel is a fine specimen of the point- ed gothic style and the carvings are very rich, having been wrought by a Dublin man, Stewart by name, and his son. The railing of the altar is of bog-oak, and the carvings in this dark wood are very fine. We were shown through the Regal x\partments. This castle covers nearly ten acres, and is now devoted to several public uses. We rode several miles out in the tram cars to the ceme- tery, where Charles O'Connor and Charles Stewart Parnell are buried. The shaft or tower over O'Connor's grave is 175 feet high, and a most wonderful piece of masonry. We saw the birth-place of the lyric poet Thomas Moore. Sept. 2Sth we took a drive of a couple of hours in Phoenix Park, in a jaunting car. We had no rain while we stayed in D^ublin, and so carried away the impression of a very beautiful city. The Park is considered to be the finest in the world. There are 1720 acres in it. It is not more than a half hour's 120 Leaves from My Diary. walk from the center of the city. It consists of a wide ex- panse of pasture and woodland, and there has been no attempt to improve on nature. The Vice-Regal Lodge, the residence of the Lord Lieutenant, is an unpretentious structure. In the center of the park is the PhcEnix monument, and near the en- trance a statue to Lord Gough. Near the river is the monu- ment to Wellington, over 200 feet high. When we reached the spot where the murder of Lord Cavendish and Mr. Burke took place in 1882, our car was stopped and we were besieged by pedlers to invest in some appropriate souvenir of this re- volting tragedy. At 4 :5o p. m. we took the train for Killarney. Ikillarnep. This was a ride of four hours, and we did not reach the hotel until late in the evening. The next morning was wet, but between the showers, we strolled out and got a real view of peasant life. We found long narrow lanes, with gutters in the center of the roadway, and low houses on either side of the street. Ducks were wallowing in the dirty water and there were some unwashed children about the doorways. We wandered through one of these localities or streets and found an open door, through which we peered, to see an old woman sitting over the fire. The floor of the room was of mud, and dingy curtains were at the small windows. We drove in the afternoon to Muckrose Abbey, a fine ruin, over five hundred years old. The stone walls were well preserved, and the stairs, so that we could go into every part of the building. In the old Abbey Church are tombs of many noted Irish families. Vines of every sort were climbing over and through the crevices, so that the walls, chimney, windows Leaves from My Diary. I2i and in fact the whole presented a very picturesque appearance. On the last morning in Sept., we started for a long ride. We entered the estate of Lord Kenmere, and then for the first time got a true and realistic idea of the extent of one of these estates. The Lodge at the entrance is very attractive, and then for miles after, our way led over fine roads, overarched with trees, winding here and there, with large open spaces, well lawned, the deer quietly grazing, rabbits in large numbers hopping about, and pheasants wandering around. The keeper of the place appeared when we were about to pass out of the estate, and in answer to some comments made by one of the party, expressed himself as well satisfied with his position, saying, with a smile, that he was a number one. The ruins of Aghadoe consist of a broken tower, and two chapels, and from here you get a lovely view of the largest of the lakes. We left the carriage and walked to a glen. I can never think of this walk without a peculiar feeling of awe, at the remembrance of its loveliness. The trees on either side of the stream, while tall and seemingly in the full flush of a vig- orous life, had their trunks covered with a green moss. A bridge of stone arches crossed this stream, and vines were droop- ing at different lengths from its sides to the water, some just trailing in the stream, and for wildness, picturesque freshness and loveliness, I do not know its equal. Ross Castle was next reached, and from the top of its turret, to which we all climbed, was the finest view of the Lakes of Killarney, and the mountains encircling them, we were able to obtain from any point. The castle itself was a most extensive ruin, cov- ered with a very thick growth of ivy, and this was in bloom, which heightened the effect greatly. The stonework of these ruins in Ireland is of a coarser grade than in other countries, but the ivy masses itself over and through the crevices so as 122 Leaves from My Diary. to outline it in most fantastic designs. A ride in the train of about two and one half hours, brought us to Cork. Oct. I we attended church in the Protestant Cathedral in this southernmost city of Ireland. The text was "What doth it profit a man, if he gain the whole world and lose his own soul ?" We drove out to Blarney Castle the following morn- ing. This ruin dates back to 1400, and is a very interesting spot. A tower and some of the walls are still standing. We climbed the stairs to the top, but did not kiss the Blarney j Stone. The view from the tower is fine. At five the same afternoon we took the train for Thurles, passing through most charming scenery on the water. We found the hotel full, as a Fair was to be held on the following day. We were awakened early by the lowing of cattle, the bleat of sheep, and the neighing of horses. As we looked 1 out of the window a sight most novel was presented to our view. The main street was broad and long, there seeming to be a castle at each end, on rising ground. During the night J or evening before a sort of fence had been placed against the ' sides of the hotel, and the buildings on either side of the street. As far as we could see in either direction, this wide street was literally filled with cattle of every description : — Pigs, sheep, ij lamb, cows, oxen, calves and horses were huddled together in | groups, each owner seeming to have two or three boys and \ young men, with long whips, to keep their cattle in place. ' Buyers from the cities were numerous, and it was interest- ing to see the motion, as of slapping of the hand, when . a sale had been made. Most of the herds were marked, and | Leaves from My Diaiy. I2j their good points were commented upon with much fervor. There were some fine horses for sale and I was much impressed with the respectable appearance of the men from the country who owned these same animals. The street was cleared about three p.m. but oh ! what a filthy place it was ! We left for Dublin late in the afternoon and reached that city in the evening. We were to sail for Holyhead the next mornrng about ii, and so took a last stroll through the main street and a last look at its many interesting features. The scenery as we neared the shore was peculiar, in that there was less of the velvety greens and more of the rocky greys. Our ride to Chester was full of interest, for we went through a portion of Wales. Long stretches of coast were visible and the beeches, though almost deserted at the time (in Oct.) were of so great an extent, and the hotels and cottages so large and numerous, as to give evidence of being the favorite resort of the multitudes during the summer season. The resi- dences all along the route indicated the thrift of the occupants, and so varied was the landscape, with lake and mountain scenery interspersed, as to warrant the expression we often heard, that Wales was a charming and picturesque country. One peculiarity of the houses in Chester is that the second story overhangs the first, and for a few blocks on the main throughfare, flights of steps lead up from the street to the sec- ond tier of stores. God's Providence House is still standing, the only house left when Chester was destroyed. These stores are called "The Rows " and all the better shops are on the up- stairs street, there being a continuous covered gallery over it. We went into the old Derby House, over 300 years old. This was where the Earl of Derby was hidden for months, and fed by his servant, who finally betrayed him, and from his 1 2 /J. Leaves from My Diary. room, which we saw, he was carried through a secret under- ground passage to the Castle. There he was tried, sentenced and then beheaded. From the street, we ascended a flight of steps to the Roman wall which encircles the city. We walk- ed quite a distance along this wall and were very much inter- ested in the PhcEnix Tower, bearing the inscription : King Charles stood on this tower Sept, 24, 1625, and saw his army defeated on Rowton Moor. The gates of these old Roman cities always affect me strangely — they seem to link one so closely with the past and to savor so strongly of military des- potism. "Ibawar^en. A delightful drive brought us to Hawarden, the residence of the noble Gladstone. His estate is a fine one, and the resi- dence dignified and stately, while at the same time cheery and inviting. It seemed a fitting place in which to develop noble thoughts and originate grand schemes for the betterment of mankind, as well as a place of retirement and seclusion from the ills and worries of a nation. The pew in the church where he worshiped was shown us, and a tablet inscribed as a tribute to his memory. The return drive was through his vast estate. Grand old trees dotted both hillside and valley, love- ly birds were carolling their sweet songs of praise, fine herds of cattle were browsing on the spacious stretch of meadow and plain, and such a spirit of rest and peace seemed to brood over all, as to give one the feeling that, ''all was well'' and in sym- pathy with everything that is good and true. At 4.10 p.m. we took the train for Leamington, changing at Clews and also at Rugby. The following morning was bright and so we took carriage for a drive for the day. All the residences betokened Leaves from My Diary. I2§ thrift, wealth and artistic taste. There are some mineral springs here, and it is a place of resort. IRenilwortb. Our first stop was at Kenilworth Castle. This is a state- ly and magnificent ruin. Many of the walls are still standing, and as we climbed some of the stairways and from its para- pet looked out upon the surrounding country, the landscape was a charming one. Looking over the ruins, there was enough of the decoration of the rooms remaining to help one to picture the richness and grandeur of the castle in its pris- tine days, and to suggest the scenes enacted here in former years. Marwicft Castle. A five mile ride brought us to the entrance of Warwick Castle, the best preserved of all the castles still uninjured by the hand of Time. The rooms in the castle were very interest- ing and from one of the windows was a view^ of the river Avon, winding in and out, and a stretch of landscape I shall not soon forget. The castle is now occupied, and so we were shown but a few of the rooms. The grounds are beautifully laid out. Strattort). We then drove to Stratford, and stopped at the Shakes- peare Hotel, where everything is quaint, and every room named after some play of Shakespeare. We went into the Stratford Church, where Shakespeare is buried, and where there is a monumental bust of the poet. The large windows in this church, illustrating ''Shakespeare's Seven Ages,'' was the con- 126 Leaves from My Diary. tribution of Americans. The Memorial Building was well worthy a visit, and is pleasantly located on the banks of the Avon. The interior is divided into a library, picture gallery and theatre, Shakespeare's home in Henley street is well pre- served and looks very antique. We took a good look at the Memorial Fountain, erected by Mr. Geo. W. Childs, of Philadel- phia, and drove through a finely-wooded park, well stocked with deer. We returned to Leamington, reaching there about 7.15. October 4th found us early making our way to the Leicester Hospital, a fine specimen of the old half-timber style building. The huge east and west gates arouse one's in- terest, as remnants of the old walls of the town. On our re- turn we visited the " Pump Room," where we listened to a de- lightful concert. ©rtorC). We left by train in the afternoon, and after an hour and a quarter's ride, reached Oxford. We attended church, at the Manchester Chapel, hearing Rev. Staff'ord Brooks preach from Ephesians 2 ; 8 and 9. In the evening we went to the Church of St. Mary the Virgin. The sermon was from i John I : 8. Dr. Pusey preached within its walls, and here the Wes- ley's worshiped, Latimer was tried here, and WycoflF, who translated the Bible, worshiped in this sanctuary. We saw here the grave of Amy Robsart. Oct. 9, we visited Christ Church College, founded by Cardinal Wolsey in 1525. The hall is filled with portraits and here, once, Charles I held Parliament. We passed from the grounds to the Cathedral Church of the See of Oxford. Here is a portrait of Wilberforce, carved out of wood. Something which I had never noticed before in the Cathedrals, was the "Watching Place," a place where the patron saint of the Leaves from My Diary . izj Cathedral was guarded. We next saw the chapel and library of Merton College, Pembroke, Corpus Christi and Oriel Col- leges. A visit to the famous Bodleian Library, and a climb to the roof, gave us a very fine view of the city. A short walk brought us to the theatre, where all the commemoration exer- cies of the Oxford University are held, degrees given, etc. The next day we visited Magdalen College. We strolled down Addison's walk. Eight miles from Oxford is Woodstock, celebrated as the occasional residence of Henry I and II, and the fair Rosamond, and the drive hither on a beautiful October afternoon was a trip long to be remembered. The road was so straight that we could look back for miles over the way we had come. Woodstock was a very quaint and interesting old town and here we saw the house in which Cromwell dwelt, and also Chaucer's habitation. Blenbeim, Blenheim Palace, the gift of the nation to the Duke of Marlborough, was of more than usual interest to us, as the residence of an American lady. The Duchess was absent, but as we drove we saw her two children. The entrance to Blen- heim is through a broad avenue, lined on either side with two rows of fine English beech trees. The dwelling is unpreten- tious. The grounds are extensive, and the massing of trees on the extensive lawn is in imitation of the order of battle at the siege of Blenheim. The view from the house is a very beautiful one. This grant of land and 250,000 pounds was given to the Duke of Marlborough, in 1703, by Queen Anne. On the morning of Oct. nth, we left Oxford for London, and after an hour and forty minutes ride, reached the great city at 12.10 p.m. 128 Leaves from My Diary. BacI? to XonC»on. We had expressed ourselves to some of the English people, as not desiring to return home, until we had seen a London fog, and though these are not due, before Nov., still on Oct. 1 2th, (whether for our special benefit or not, I cannot say,) we were favored with one, of so genuine a character, as to fully satisfy all our wishes in this direction. The afternoon found us at Kensington Palace, where the QjLieen was born. The Palace is quite unpretentious, but the park, in which it is located, is a most charming spot. We wandered through the various rooms of the Palace, some of which were very interesting. In glass cases, were preserved many of the playthings of the Queen, which bore a very strong rememblance to the dolls and toys of the present day. Many pictures hung upon the walls, those of the "Coronation," "Marriage of the Queen" and "Baptism of the Prince of Wales," being the most prominent. Of the many guests pre- sent at the marriage, only one beside the Queen is still living. On the afternoon of Oct. 14th, we rode out to "The People's Palace." We found the palace a substantial, but unpreten- tious structure, planned to meet the wants of the People. The hall for the entertainments is large and fine and here are held very nice concerts, the best artists giving their services, and for three-pence anyone can hear "The Messiah" "Elijah," and concerts of a more miscellaneous character. A Lord, whose name I do not recall, has given a large number of tropi- cal plants, and so, opening out from the hall, these have been so arranged as to form a Winter Garden, and during the in- termissions, here is where the people can promenade. What such influences mean to the respectable people, it would be hard to estimate, and time alone will determine. We visited Leaves from My Diary. i2g the work-rooms, school-rooms, etc., and were greatly impressed with the power for good these courses were destined to effect. There are one hundred scholarships given to the boys and girls passing the best examinations, and these are worth to each one, at least 50 pounds. On the payment of a shilling a week, any one can pursue the branches they wish. Oct. 15th we heard Dr. Parker preach. His subject was "Watered Gardens." At the close of service, we took a cab and were driven to Mrs. Griffin's, where we dined. This glimpse of Americo-English life (for both were Americans) was interesting and agreeable. A little trip to Kensington the next morning we very much enjoyed. We took the train for Windsor on Oct. 17, reaching there about 11.40. We were shown through the State rooms, visit- ed the Terrace, the Royal Stables, and St. George's Chapel. Prince Albert's Memorial is fine. In the stables were ninety horses, the Queen, then at Osborne House, having twenty with her. Fifty-eight grooms were in attendance. The royal carriages filled one building, the harnesses and saddles another, and then there was the riding stable, where the young Princes and Princesses are taught to mount, the Queen sitting in the balcony to watch them. We visited the National Gallery on the afternoon of the following day, and attended a fine concert in the evening, at Queen's Hall. To my utter astonishment, during this concert, the gentlemen all about lighted their cigars and quietly puffed away till the air was thick with smoke. There was a very fine band, with some eighty members, and a pianist, tenor- soloist, our own Mr. Van Hose, a base soloist, and Miss Sterling. Oct. 19 revealed a dense fog. Another fog, equally dense, greeted us on the following day, but in the afternoon we went to Westminister Abbey, where service was being held. Tjo Leaves from My Diary. The singing by the boy choir was fine and the service very impressive. Oct. 23, we were driven in a carriage to the house of Mr. Henry Jones, near Hyde Park, where we had been invited to dine. This was a typical English household, and we had a very pleasant glimpse of real English family life. Oct. 24th found us making our farewell visit to the British Museum, and taking a last look at the many wonders gathered there, for we were to sail from Liverpool on the 25th, ^be IReturn Dosage, After months of most delightful travel in many countries, the date, Oct. 25, that seemed so far remote when we landed at Naples, was actually upon us, and our trunks, which we had packed and unpacked so many times were really strapped and locked, and we were on our way to the station at London to take the special for Liverpool to board the steamer there and sail for home ; the thought of our home and the dear ones awaiting us there made us feel that, much as we dreaded the ocean trip at this late season of the year, time could not fly fast enough for us nor the steamer make too rapid headway to land us once more on our own native shore ; we had to bid adieu to but one at the station, and she a stranger comparative- ly, whose acquaintance we made on our outward trip ; kind words were exchanged and we were about to enter our com- partment when the guard, instead of assisting us, as heretofore, requested us to follow to the office a man whom he summoned to escort us ; such a strange proceeding almost took our breath away, for why should we be hindered thus in our journey, and what could it mean? Rather bewildered and crestfallen, we followed his lead to the place where we found an excited crowd gathered around one poor, lone man whom I heard say, as I approached, "You cannot sail to-day on the Germanic for she met with an accident not two hours since,'' Cannot sail, I thought; why we must sail; well, after considering the matter, though it took some time to collect our thoughts, we decided to take the train for Liverpool and there await the sailing of the Oceanic, a week later. Leaves from My Diary. I will not give a lengthy account of our trip homeward, but will say, that we embarked on Nov. ist. and soon after leaving Queenstown encountered headwinds, which blew with hurricane force, for three days, creating such a disturbance of the sea that the greater majority of the passengers were very sick and kept their berths ; on Sunday morning I managed, by holding on, to mount the stairs and to reach the saloon where service was being held; but a scanty number were here gath- ered, but if ever you feel that you are in the keeping of your Heavenly Father it is when upon the high seas ; all human aid seems utterly powerless for any emergency when even such an immense steamer as the Oceanic pitches and seems like a toy upon the waves. When we reached the Banks, the weather changed, and then did we again begin to enjoy the sea. An entertainment was held at which Lord Paunceforte presided with great dignity and speeches were made by him, by Andrew Carnegie and Mr. Alfred Arnold, member of Par- liament ; we had on board many dukes, ladies and titled people, some very worthy of their titles and some seeming to have nothing but these appendages ; as Lord Paunceforte said in his speech, an ocean steamer is one of the most wonderful things in the world, and the Oceanic, a wonder of wonders ; it is 704 feet long, carried on our trip 3200 people and used 600 tons of coal daily : when about to board her with his family he said he could hardly conceive of a mind capable of planning and constructing such an immense ship. There was a very fine library on board, and every convenience for the accommoda- tion of the passengers ; as the weather forbade much promenad- ing on deck we read many books, and thus the time passed very pleasantly; when Fire Island was sighted you cannot realize, if you have never experienced it, our joy and enthusiasm and our impatience at being required to remain at anchor at quar- Leaves from My Diary. antine for the night ; daylight found us up and ready, and at 8.30 we were towed into our slip, where the passengers dis- embarked ; our dear ones were waiting to welcome us. Three cheers for America, the home of the brave and the land of the free, and we could heartily say the best country upon the face of all the earth. H 61- 79 ,^ Vi. ' . . « DiJC 73 N. MANCHESTER,