t • • '^ " -oV*' • • • ^^ *''' ^^ ^ """^ t- 4'^ ^AO^ ^^<^^ V.^' 0^ o^-^.-^P. /.'•" ^Q - ^o^ iP-Tt, / L*. ; f Q r 7 TT 1^ '^i I) , / 'c'Sxnc^^tn:^ '^'^rmi^ rj^^/t^^y/t^ THE PICTTJEESQUE TOURIST; BEING \ GUIDE THROUGH THE iNORTHERN AND EASTERN STATES AND CANADA: GIVING AN ACCURATE DESCRIPTION OF CITIES AND VILLAGES, CELEBRATED PLACES OF RESORT, ETC. WITH MAPS AND ^LUSTRATIONS. EDITED BY 0. L. HOLLEY. NEW-YORK : PUBLISHED EY J. DISTURNELL, NO. 102 BROADWAY. 1844, •i^--'-. ;v Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1844./ " '. •* I . * -^z Joar CisTURNELL; in the Clerk's Office of the Dislrici '^ «'Jv .<>0«rt for, tbe Southeru District of New- York. ccc««««t ' ALBANY: PRINTED BY C VAN BENTHVYSEN A.VB CO- ^ ^1^ TO THE READER- The arrangement of the Picturesque Toueist, will be found to differ, in some respects^ from works of the same class. The general object of this book is to furnish a conve- nient and faithful guide for strangers^ whether travelling on business, or for pleasure, or health, through the North, ern and Eastern sections of the United States, and the Canadas. The City of New- York, as being the principal com- mercial emporium of the country, and the chief centre of resort, in the first instance, for distant travellers, whether native or foreign, is chosen as the point from which the Tourist is supposed to commence his excursion. Starting thence, this Guide will conduct him along the principal lines of travel North, West, and East. Northward he will proceed up the Hudson river, through the flourishing cities at the head of navigation, to the famous Springs at Ballston and Saratoga — thence to Lake George, and by Che way of Lake Champlain into Canada. Westward through the rich midland and western counties of the TO THE READER. State of New- York, to Niagara Falls, and Buffalo — thence to Chicago. Northerly through Canada, passing over Lake Ontario and down the St. Lawrence to Montreal, Quebec, and the Saguenay river. Eastward through the states of New England ; noticing, on each route, the pla- ces and scenery most worthy of the attention of the Tour- ist, either for memorable events, or for local attractions, and aiming, in the accounts of them, more at simple ac- curacy, than at embellished description. Such are the scope and design of this Traveller's Guide. 0. L. H. Albany, June, 1844. CONTENTS. Description of the City and Island of New- York. Page. Situation and Extent, , ^ Discovery and Settlement, 10 Streets and AvenueSj 13 Parks and Public Squares, , . . . . 15 Public Buildings, 16 Churches, 19' Literary and Scientific Institutions, 20 Benevolent Institutions, - 23 Places of Amusement, 23 Hotels and Public Houses, 25 Hackney Coaches, Cabs and Omnibusses, 27 Markets, 27 Trade and Commerce, 28 Buildings in 1840, 28 Croton Aqueduct, • ■ ■ • 29 Fire Department — City Courts, 33 City Police — Ferries, ' 34 Steamboats and Packets, 35 Railroads, 35 Stages. 36 Fashionable Places of Resort in the Vicinity N. York, 37 Eastern Lines of Travel through Long Island Sound, 42 Housatonic Route betvreen New-York and Albany^ 43 Hudson River and its Vicinity. Jersey City — Hoboken, 45 Weehawken — Bloomingdale — Manhattanville, 46 Fort Washington — Fort Lee — Palisades, 47 Yonkers — Hastings — Dobb's Ferry, 48 Piermont — Tappan, . . ., 49 Tappan Bay — Irving — Tarrytov^^n — Nyack, 50 Rockland Lake — Si«g Sing,. 51 IV COKTEIVTS. Page. City of Rochester, 16^ Avon Springs, 16S Batavia — Attica, 170 Brockport — Holley — Albion — Ridge Road, 171 Knowlesville — Medina — Gasport — Lockport, 172 Tonawanda — Black Rock, 173 Niagara Falls, 174 Levviston — Fort Niagara, 177 City of Buffalo, 178 Steamboat Lines leaving Buffalo, 1^1 Table of Distances from Buffalo to Chicago, : 182 A trip from Buffalo to Chicago — Lake Erie, 184 Dunkirk — 'Barcelona — Erie — Conneaut, 186 Ashtabula — Fairport — Cleveland — Sandusky, 187 Toledo — Perrysburg, 18S Monroe — Amherstburgh — Detroit, . . » = 189 Lake St. Clair — Fort ^Gratiot — Lake Huron, 190 Point aux Barques — Presque Isle— Mackinac, 191 Lake Michigan — Mihvaukie — Racine — Chicago,... 192 Michigan City— St. Joseph— Green Bay, 193 Sault de St. Marie, 194 Lake Superior, 195 Pictured Rocks, • 196 First Vessel vi^hich Navigated the Western Lakes, ... 1 97 Statistics of Steamboats, 202 Tour Through Canada. Fort Erie— Waterloo— Grand Island, 211 Navy Island — Chippewa, 212 Falls of Niagara — Drummondsville, 213 Queenston, 214 Niagara, 215 Fort George— Welland Canal, 216 Karailton — 'Dundas, 217 City of Toronto, 218 Steamboat Lines leaving Toronto, 219 Port Hope— Cobourg, 221 City of Kingston, 222 Rideau Canal, 223 Table of Distances betvi'een Kingston and Montreal, 226 Thousand Islands, » 226 Gananoqui — Well's Island, , 227 Brockville — Morristown — PrescG'tt, 228 CO/NTENTS. V Page. Ogdensburgh, 229 Galop Rapids — Dickinson's Landing — Cornwall — St. Kegis, 230 Lake St. Francis — Coteau du Lac, Cedar and Cas- cade RapidS; 231 Beauharnois Canal — Canals in Canada, 232 City of Montreal, 234 Excursion to Caledonia Springs, &c., 238 Lachine — St. Anne's, 238 Lake of the Two Mountains — Carillon — Point For- tune, 239 Caledonia Springs, 240 Georgian Springs — By town, 242 Steamboat Route from Montreal to Quebec, 243 Rapids of St. Mary — Varennes — William Henry, . . • 244 Lake St. Peter, 245 Port St. Francis — Three Rivers — Richelieu Rapids, 246 City of Quebec, 247 Excursions in the Vicinity of Quebec, 259 Falls of Montmorenci 260 Chaudiere Falls — Cape Rouge, 261 St. Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers, 262 Island of Orleans, 263 Madam Island — St. Thomas — Isle aux Coudi'es,. • ■ • 264 Goose Island — St. Anne — •Kamouraski, 265 River Du Loup — Red Island — Tadousac, 266 Saguenay River, 269 T^te du Boule, 271 St. Louis Island — Eternity Point — Cape Trinity,. . . 272 Statue Point — Tableau — Ha-Ha Bay, 273 Chicoutimi, 274 Value of Colonial Moneys, 275 Eastern Tour. Table of Distances from Burlington to Concord,. . . 277 Lake Champlain, 278 List of Steamboats built on Lake Champlain, 280 Montpelier, 280 Eastern Lines of Travel from Whitehall and Albany, 281 New Lebanan S.prins;s — Shaker Settlement, 282 Pittsfield—Dalton— Washington— Becket, 283 Chester— Westfield— Springfield, 284 Northampton — Mount Tom — Hadley, 286 VI CONTENTS. Page. Worcester, 287 City of Boston, 288 Vicinity of Boston — Dorchester, &c., 296 Brookline — Brighton — Cambridge, 297 Mount Auburn — Charlestown, 298 Breed's Hill— Battle of Bunker Hill, 299 Chelsea— Boston Harbor, c 302 Nahant, 303 Railroad Route from Boston to Concord, 304 City of Lowell, 305 Nashua — Concord, 308 White Mountains, 309 Routes between Boston and Portland, 314 Railroad and Steamboat Routes, 315 Lynn — Salem, , 316 Beverly— Ipswich — Newburyport — Portsmouth, . . . 318 South Berwick, 319 Wells — Kennebunk — Saco — Portland, 320 Lines of Travel from Portland, 322 Augusta- — 'Bangor, 324 Lines of Travel between Boston and New- York,. . 325 Providence — Newport, 326 Stonington, 327 Norwich — New London, 328 City of Hartford, 329 City of New Haven, 331 Railroads i& New-England, 334 TABLE OF ROUTES OP TRAVEL, THROUGH THE NORTHERN AND EASTERN STATES, ANTi CAJTADA — GIVING- THE DISTANCE AND THE USUAL TIME. RotJtEs. Miles. Hours. 1. New-York to Philadelphia, uta New- Jefsey > Railroad, 86 6 2. New-York to Baltimore, rt'ct Railroad routes 182 13 3. New- York to Washington, t;ta " " 220 16 4. New- York to Boston, via Stonington and Providence Railroad, 224 14 :| 5. New- York to Boston, via Norwich and Worcester Railroad, .*.... 237 15 6. New- York to Springfield, Mass., via New- Haven and Hartfoifd Railroad, 143 7. New- York td Albany, ijitiHousatonic Rail- road, 200 14 8. New- York to Albany, via Piermont, by Steamboat, Railroad and Stage, . 166 28 9. New- York to Albany, east side Hudson River, by Stage, » 154 ^S 10. New- York to Albany, by Steamboat Route, 145 10 11. New-York to Dunkirk, via line of New- York and Erie Railroad, 475 12. Newburgh to Barcelona, on Lake Erie, by Stage, .387 13. Albany to Boston, via Railroad Route, .. . 200 12 14. Boston to Portland, via Eastern Railroad, . 105 5| 15. Portland to Bangor, by Stage, 129 20 16 » Portland to Quebec, via Augusta and Nor- ridgewoek, by Stage, 300 Vlll TABLE OF ROUTES OF TRAVEL. Routes. Miles. Hour*. 17. Boston to Bangor, by Steamboat Route, .. 245 18 18. Boston to Montreal, via Concord and Bur- lington, Vt., by Railroad, Stage and Steamboat, 317 19. Albany to Montreal, via Lake Champlain, by Stage, Steamboat and Railroad, .... 250 36 20. Montreal to Quebec, by Steamboat, 180 12 21. Albany to Buffalo, by Railroad Route, ... 325 28 22. Albany to Buffalo, via Erie Canal, 364 96 23. Schenectady to Buffalo, by Canal Packet, . 334 72 24. Utica to Binghamton, by Stage, 94 16 25. Utica to Ogdensburgh, by Stage, 125 24 26. Ogdensburgh to Plattsburgh, by Stage, 126 24 27. Syracuse to Niagara-Falls, via Oswego, by Canal Packet, Steamboat & Railroad, 187 20 28. Rochester to Niagura-Fails, via Lockport, 80 12 29. Rochester to Clean, by Stage, 98 18 30. Rochester to Buffalo, by Railroad Route,. . 74 6 31. Rochester to Buffalo, by Erie Canal. 95 19 32. Buffalo to Kingston, Canada, via Lewis- ton, by Railroad and Steamboat, 222 24 33. Kingston to Montreal, via St. Lawrence River, 212 24 34. Lewiston to Detroit, through Canada, by Stage, 263 72 35. Buffalo to Detroit, by Steamboat, - 372 30 36. Buffalo .to Chicago, via Detroit and St. Jo- seph, by Steamboat, Railroad and Stage, 640 60 ■.?7. Buffalo to Chicago, -yia Lakes Erie, Huron and Michigan, Steamboat Route, 1047 72 DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY AND ISLAND OF NEW-YORK. SITUATION AND EXTENT. The City of New- York stands on an Island of the same name ; in n. lat. 40 deg;. 42 min. 43 sec. ; in e. LON. from the Washington meridian 3 deg. 1 min. 13 sec, and w€st from Greenwich, England, 78 deg. 59 min. 46 sec. Its distance from Washington is 220 miles, by one continuous line of railroads. The Island is 13| miles long, north and south, with an average width of 1 ^ miles, the greatest width being 2^ miles. On its east side it is separated from Long Island by a continuation of Long Island Sound called East River, and on the west by the Hudson River from New-Jersey. The two rivers unite at the southern point of the Island, and form the spacious Bay of New- York, the distance across which, and through the '' Narrows" to the Atlan- tic ocean, is 16 miles, with a channel sufficient for the largest ships. East River connects with Long Island Sound through the formidable strait, called by the Dutch, ^' Helle-Gat." On the north, the Island is separated from the main land by the Harlem River, which opens into East River, and by the Spuyten Duyvel Creek opening into the Hudson, forming a continuous but winding water-way 8 miles long. The southern termination of the island and city is a spacious esplanade called the "Battery," once fortified, but long since dismantled ; planted with trees and laid out with public walks. A fine view from the Battery forms the frontispiece of this book. B 10 DESCRIPTION OF In the Bay, fronting the Battery, at the distance of lit- tle more than half a mile, and separated from Long Is- land by the Butter-milk channel, is Governor's Island ; while toward the Jersey shore and looking up the Hud- son, are Bedlow's and Ellis's Islands. These all were long since ceded to the United States, (reserving the ju- risdiction of the state and city for the service of legal pro- cess,) and are strongly fortified. In the East River, and extending in succession towards Hell-Gate, areBlackwell's, Great-Barn, and Randall's Is- lands, all belonging to the city of New- York ; and on the first named are the City Penitentary and Lunatic Asylum. DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. The Island of New-York was discovered in 1609, by Henry Hudson, who was then sailing in the service of the Dutch. It was formerly called Manhattan, from the native inhabitants — a name, says Schoolcraft, descriptive of the singular whirlpool of " Helle-Gat," the most ex- pressive feature in the neighborhood, and which may be translated, " the people of the whirlpool." The first settlement of white men on this Island was made by the Dutch in 1613, who then laid the foundation of the city, under the name of New- Amsterdam, which it retained till its conquest in 1664, by the English, who changed the name to New- York. Being reconquered in 1673, by the Dutch, they gave it the name of New- Orange ; but on being again surrendered to the English by treaty, in 1674, the name of New- York was restored, and has been retained ever since. The municipal authority of New- Amsterdam was vested in two Burgomasters, five assistants called Schepens, and a Schout or Sheriff. The English changed the city go- vernment to its present form, under a charter granted in 1665, Nicolls being governor of the province. In 1686. NEW-YORK CITY. 11 under Gov. Dongan, the charter was enlarged, and again, in 1730, under Gov. Montgomerie. Under these charters, the mayor was appointed by the governor, and the alder- men and assistants were elective. The charter of 1730, as amended by acts of the state legislature, is still in force. From 1674 to 1783, the city and surrounding country were in possession of the English, under the administra- tion of governors appointed by the British crown. Dur- ing that period the city increased slowly in numbers, hav- ing, in 1750, only about 10,000 inhabitants. When the British evacuated the city, November 25, 1783, it con- tained about 24,000 inhabitants ; which, in 1790, had in- creased to 33,131— in 1800, to 60,489— in 1810, to 96,373 —in 1820, to 123,706— in 1830, to 202,089, and in 1840, to 312,710 ; being at the present time by far the most populous and important city on the continent of America. The city was originally built up without any regular plan, and its streets were for the most part narrow and crooked. As late as 1783, Chambers-street was the limit of the city on the north, and Catharine-street on the east towards Corlear's Hook. But the anticipated growth of the city, soon after the close of the revolutionary war, and especially on the adoption of the present Federal Con- stitntion, led to great public improvements, which were conducted in a systematic manner, being greatly facilitat- ed by the extraordinary powers exercised by the corporate authorities for the assessment of private property. Wide and commodious avenues and streets have thus taken the place of the narrow and irregular thoroughfares of the olden times. Hills have been levelled, rough places made smooth, and bogs and marshes filled up, until the city now presents a uniform grade throughout. It extends about three miles from the Battery towards the north, and across the Island from river to river. The 12 DESCRIPTION OF style of building has improved from time to time, and within the last ten years has reached a high degree of ele- gance and convenience. The upper or north part of the city has been laid out into spacious streets, with wide and convenient sidewalks, formed of large flag-stones ; and the houses, built of brick in uniform blocks, with marble steps, and highly ornamented balustrades of cast-iron in front, present an imposing and agreeable aspect. This is now the fashionable quarter, the lower part of the city being comparatively deserted even by old residents, whose former mansions are converted into boarding houses, or have given place to shops or warehouses. The City is now divided into 17 Wards; each Ward elect- ing one Alderman, one Assistant Alderman, two Assessors, one Collector, &c. The following table shows the com- parative population of the Wards at different periods : — WARDS. 1825. 1830. 1835. 1840. First, Second, Third, Fourth, Fifth, Sixth, Seventh, Eighth, Ninth, Tenth, Eleventh, .... Twelfth, Thirteenth,*.. Fourteenth,* . Fifteenth,t'. . . Sixteenth,t . . . Seventeenth, § 9,929 9,315 10,201 12,210 15,093 20,061 14,192 24,285 10,956 23,932 7,344 7,938 11,331 8,203 9,599 12,705 17,722 13,570 15,873 20,729 22,810 16,438 14,915 11,808 12,598 14,288 10,380 7,549 10,884 15,439 18,495 36,827 21,481 28,570 20,618 20,926 26,845 24,437 17,130 17,306 13,202 10,629 6,394 11,581 15,770 19,159 17,198 22,982 29,073 24,795 29,026 17,052 11,652 18,571 20,235 17,755 22,273 18,619 Total,.... 166,086 202,589 270,089 312,710 * These two Wards were constituted in 1826, the 13th being taken from the lOlh, and the Wh from the 6th and Sth Wards, t Taken from the 9th Ward, 1832. J Taken from the 12th or out-ward, 1836. § Taken from the 11th Ward, 1837. NEW-YORK CITY. 13 STREETS. The principal street is Broadway, extending in a northerly direction from the Battery a distance of three miles along the centre of the city, and intersected at right angles by streets that slope gradually to each river. It is 80 feet wide, with spacious side- walks that afford a fa» vorite promenade in fine weather for the gay and fashiona- ble. Here are to be found the most extensive hotels, dry goods stores, fancy shops, confectionaries j jewellers, booksellers, grocers, tailors, milliners, and in general all the various establishments that furnish the elegancies and luxuries of life in the greatest perfection. The Bowery is about two-thirds the length of Broad- way, but is a much wider street. The name is derived from the Dutch bouwery, signifying a farm, and the street was originally called Bowery- lane, from itsleading through the public farms. It runs nearly parallel with Broadway, on the east, and being chiefly a business street, has a lively and animated appearance. It is the great thorough- fare for country wagons and market people from West- chester county, with which it communicates by the Har- lem Railroad and Third Avenue. Chatham- STREET, (named from the Earl of Chatham,) connects the Bowery with Broadway and Nassau-street : an immense population pours through it at all times from the eastern part of the city, and Broadway, below its junc- tion with this street, is often so thronged as to render it hazardous, if not impracticable, for foot passengers to cross it. East Broadway is a spacious and elegant street on the east side of the town, and parallel with it are Henry, Madison and Monroe-streets, all handsomely built up with private residences, in the neighborhood of East Ri- '14 DESCRIPTION OP ver. The principal streets crossing Broadway and termi- nating at East River, are Grand, Broome, Houstoun, Fourth and Eighth-streets. On the west side, Greenwich and Hudson-streets are the most spacious and fashionable : they run parallel to the Hudson, and are about two miles and a half in length. Washington and West-streets are of the same length, and have a parallel coursej the latter ex- tends along the river. Between the lower part of Broadway and East River are Nassau, William, Pearl, Water, Front and South- streets, intersected by Fulton-street, Maiden-Lane, Li- berty, Cedar, Pine, Wall and Broad-streets, all of which are occupied with the great commercial interests of the city. A considerable part of this quarter of the city was destroyed by the great fire of December, 1835, but it has since been entirely rebuilt in a much superior style. Wall-street contains the Merchant's Exchange, Cus- tom House, and numerous other splendid edifices, recent- ly built, occupied by insurance and banking companies. The Avenues (so called) are sixteen in number and extend from the upper parts of the city to Harlem river ; they are in general 100 feet wide, as laid out, but are not lall graded. They are crossed by streets running from ri- ver to river, some of which are of equal width with the Avenues, The Third Avenue leads to Harlem bridge, and being m.acadamized throughout its whole extent, (about 7 miles) affords a pleasant drive from the city. The Harlem Railroad is laid upon the Fcxtrth Ave- nue. The Bloomingdale road, (a continuation of Broad- way,) is another favorite route for drives in pleasant weather, leading to the villages of Bloomingdale and ^lanhattanville, along the bank of the Hudson. NEW-YORK CITY. 15 PARKS AND PUBLIC SQUARES. Of the public squares the Battery is the principal. It affords a fine view of the bay and harbor, and of the adjacent islands and opposite shores. It contains about eleven acres of ground, laid out in gravel walks and or- namented with trees and shrubbery. As a public pro- menade it is, probably, not surpassed in the beauty of its situation and general attractions by any other in the world. A castle, built on a mole in the harbor, is connect- ed with the grounds by a bridge, and is now used as a place of amusement, and for the exhibition of fire works. The Park is a triansrular area of about ten acres, handsomely disposed into grass-plots and walks, and con- tains the City Hall with other public buildings. It is an ornament to the city, and is much thronged on gala days ; especially on the anniversary of American Inde- pendence, and other public occcasions. The Fountain which now adorns this Park is greatly admired. Washington Square, of about the same extent as the Park, is in the upper part of the city, between Fourth- street and Waverley Place. The University and a new Dutch church in the Gothic style, front on this square. Tompkins Square, on the east of the Bowery, be- tween Seventh and Tenth-streets, is handsomely laid out, and afifords a fine view of East River and the opposite shore of Long Island. It is a place of great resort dur- ing the warm season, especially on Sundays, and is a favorite parade ground for the military corps of the city. Stages are constantly running between this square and the Battery, and improvements are rapidly going forward in its vicinity. Union Place, at the common termination of the Bowery, Broadway and University Place, between Four- teenth and Seventeenth-streets, is laid out in a tasteful 16 DESCRIPTION OP manner and surrounded by an elegant paling of cast iron. Madison, Hamilton, and Stuyvesant squares are not yet open to the public. The Bowling Green is a small enclosure at the foot of Broadway, near the Battery. It is ornamented with a beautiful Fountain — a view of which embellishes this work as a vignette. Hudson Square or St. John's Park, in the central part of the city, between Hudson and Varick- streets, be- longs to Trinity church, and is open only to privileged persons. It is a beautiful green of about four acres, filled with shrubs and flowers, enclosed by a high iron paling. St. John's church, (a chapel of Trinity,) with its lofty spire, 240 feet high, fronts on the east side of this square, and adds to the beauty of the situation. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. The public buildings are numerous, and many of them are justly admired for their architectural beauty and sub- stantial character. The new Merchants' Exchange, erected on the site of the former, which was destroyed by the great fire, is the largest and most costly edifice in the city. The material of which it is built, is the dark blue Quincy granite, {sienite •) no wood is used in any part of the building ; the whole is solid masonry. It occupies an entire block of ground fronting on Wall-V*reet, being about 200 feet in length by 171, and 144 feet in depth. It is 77 feet high to the top of the cornice, and 124 feet from the foundation to the apex of the dome. In front is a re- cessed portico with eighteen massive columns of granite, beautifully wrought in the Ionic style. These columns are 38 feet in height, and 4 feet, 4 inches in diame- ter, each weighing thirty- three tons. They are said to be the largest monoliths in the world, excepting only the co- NEW-YORK CITY. 17 lumns of a church at St. Petersburgh. The exchange room or rotunda is in the centre of the building, 100 feet in diameter, and 90 feet in height to the top of the dome. The dome is solid masonry, 80 feet in diameter, sup° ported in part by eight Corinthian columns of beautiful Italian marble. These are 41 feet in height, and 4 feet 8 inches in diameter. A more magnificent apartment is seldom seen. The effect on the beholder when first seen, is grand and sublime. The entire cost of the building, including the ground, is stated at $1,800,000 ; the origi- nal estimate was one-third of that sum. It was erected by a company called the Merchants' Exchange Company, incorporated in 1823, with a capital of one million. The new Custom House, is another recent addition to the public edifices of the city. It is modelled after the Parthenon at Athens, and is nearly of the same size as that celebrated temple. The external walls and the roof are of white mai-ble, and the entire building is finished without wood, so as to be completely fire proof. It is 200 feet long by 90 wide, and about 80 feet in height.* It has two fronts ; the principal one on Wall street, at the head of Broad-street, and the other on Pine street ; each containing a row of finely wrought marble columns 32 feet high, of the Doric order. The business hall oc- cupies the centre of the building ; it is a rotunda sur- mounted by a dome, supported by sixteen beautiful Co- rinthian columns 30 feet high. The diameter of this room is 80 feet. The architectural ornaments of the interior are numerous, beautifully designed, and exquisitely finish- ed. This superb edifice was commenced in May, 1834, and finished in May, 1841. The cost, ground inclusive, was $1,175,000— building alone, $950,000. • The dimensions of the Parthenon were 217 feet long, 98 broad and 65 high. 18 DESCRIPTION OF The Hall of Justice, built in the Egyptian style, is a remarkable structui'e. It fronts on Centre- street, and occupies a block of ground 253 feet long by 200 wide, in- cluding, however, in this space a prison, which is detached from the main building. Its massive Theban columns with their gigantic palm-leaved capitals, and its cornices, ornamented with winged globes encircled by serpents, give a singular effect to the building. The criminal courts of the city and the city prison are to be found in this gloomy pile, which has gained the sobriquet of the '' Egyptian Tombs." The building was finishedin 1838, being constructed of light colored granite. The New-York University, on Washington Square^ is built in the Gothic style, and has a commanding ap- pearance. It is 180 feet long by 100 wide. The front is composed of a centre building with wings flanked by towers, one on each of the four corners of the edifice. The centre rises above the wings, and contains in front a large Gothic window of stained glass, 50 feet high by 24 wide. This part of the building contains the Chapel, which is much admired for its architectural beauty. Its lofty ceiling adorned with Gothic tracery, and the richly carved columns and pannelings of oak, give it an antique air, and produce a striking effect. The wings of the edi- fice are four stories high, and the towers five : the last are surmounted by embattled parapets. The main en- trance is under the great central window, through a deep portal of richly moulded stone, and a door of massive oak. This building is of recent date, having been com- pleted in 1836. Among the older public edifices, the City Hall, is pre-eminent. It is situated in the Park, and consists of a centre building with wings, principally of the Ionic and Corinthian orders. The entire front is 216 feet long, by JfEW-YORK CITY. 19 105 deep ; the front and ends are built of white marble, and the rear of free stone. It is chiefly occupied by the civil courts, and the common council, both branches of the latter and the mayor having their respective apart- ments. The United States Courts are held in a large brick building in the rear of the City Hall, originally built and occupied as an Alms-House. At Bellevue, on East River, 2| miles from the City Hall, are several public buildings, as the new Alms- house, a large stone edifice, well adapted to the purposes for which it is used ; a Hospital connected with it for the sick and insane poor ; the House of Refuge for juvenile delinquents ; and a Penitentiary for the punishment of fe- male convicts. An Asylum for the insane poor of the city has been recently erected on Blackwell's Island, Vv'here there is also a Prison for male convicts. Opposite Blackwell's Island are the Long Island Farms, where are schools and nurseries for pauper children, liberally sus- tained in connection with the Aims-House. CHURCHES. The number of Churches is about one hundred and sixty, as follows : Presbyterian, thirty- seven • Episcopa- lian, twenty-six ; Methodist, twenty-three ; Baptist, six- teen ; Dutch Reformed, thirteen ; Roman Catholic, nine ; African, ten ,• German Lutheran and Reformed, six ; Jews' Synagogues, four ; Quakers or Friends, four ; Universa- lists, four ; Unitarians, two ; and others, seven. Many of the Churches are handsomely built ; of these are the new Dutch Reformed Churches on Washington Square and La Fayette Place ; the Church cf the Meg- siah, (Unitarian;) St. Peters, (Roman Catholic ;) French Protestant du St. Esprit ; the Church of the Ascension, St. Paul's, and St. Peter's, (Episcopalian ;) Presbyterian 20 DESCRIPTION OF Churches on Duane, Grand and Mercer- streets ; First Baptist Church on Broome-street, &c. The Church now building on the site of old Trinity, at the head of Wall- street, will far surpass all others in the city in its extent and architectural splendor ; its length is 189 feet by 84 in breadth ; height 64 ; height of tower and spire, 264 feet. There are congregations of French, Germans, and Welch, who have religious services conducted in their re- spective languages. LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. Columbia College the oldest literary institution in the city, was founded in 1754, and was originally called King's College. It is situated on a beautiful square ad- joining Park Place, west of the City Hall, where the col- lege buildings were erected in 1760. For a considerable period there were no other buildings of any kind in the immediate neighborhood of the college, which thus en- joyed an extensive and unobstructed view of the opposite shore and country of New-Jersey, Long Island, Staten Island, and New- York Bay. &c. This college has always sustained a high character as a seminary of learning, having from the beginning enjoyed the services of emi- nent scholars in the various departments of instruction. The University or the city of New- York, is a youthful institution; it was chartered in 1831, and is rapid- ly increasing in importance and favor. Connected with it is a Medical School of high reputation. Its location is unrivalled, fronting Washington Park on the west, which is ornamented with shade trees and laid out with gravelled walks. The General Theological Seminary of the Episcopal Church, is situated on Twentieth-street, cor- ner of the Ninth Avenue, near the Hudson, 2 miles north NEW-YORK CITY. 21 from the City Hall, a part of the city known as Chelsea. There are two handsome buildings of stone for the ac- commodation of the professors and students ; the board of trustees consists of all the bishops, and one other trus- tee from each diocese in the United States. The institu- fion is well endowed, and in a flourishing condition. The New- York Theological Seminary near the University, is under the direction of the Presbyterian church, although open to all christian denominations. Its library is of great value, consisting of 16,000 volumes, formerly the property of a German clergyman, Rev. Leander Van Ess, after whose decease it was purchased. Of the literary associations, the oldest is the New- York Society Library, founded in 1754, which occu- pies a new and beautiful building recently erected on Broadway, corner of Leonard-street. The library is the largest and most valuable in the state, and is con- stantly increasing ; it now consists of nearly 40,000 vo- lumes. An extensive reading room is connected with it, in some respects the best in the city. The institution is governed by a board of twelve trustees, who are annual- ly elected by the shareholders. The New-York Historical Society, formed in 1804, at present occupies a suite of rooms in the University, where its library, comprising about 12,000 volumes, is situated. It has published several volumes of historical collections, and ranks among the most active and distin- guished literary associations in this country. The Lyceum or Natural History, established in 1818, has done much for the promotion of natural science in this country. The building in which its library and cabinet are deposited, is on Broadway, near Prince- street ; it was erected at the expense of the Lyceum. 22 DESCRIPTION OF The Mercantile Library Association is formed chiefly of merchants' clerks. Its library consists of about 22,000 volumes, connected with which there is an excel- lent reading room. The number of members in 1840, was over 5,000. An annual course of lectures is de- livered before this association at Clinton Hall, where the library is also kept. The Apprentices' Library in Crosby-street, contains about 12,000 volumes. It was established in 1820, by the General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen. The American Institute for the encouragement of American industry, formed in 1828, has a valuable li- brary of about 5,000 volumes, situated in the spacious building in the rear of the City HaU. Under the direc- tion of this Institute annual fairs are held in the city at Niblo's Garden, for the exhibition of American manu- factures in every department of human industry. The Mechanics' Institute occupies rooms in the basement of the City Hall, where it has a library and reading room ; a course of lectures is also given under its auspices every winter. The National Academy or Design, established in 1826, for the encouragement of the fine arts, occupies rooms in the Society Library's building, where are held its annual exhibitions of paintings. The Apollo Asso- ciation, incorporated in 1840, for a similar purpose, is a popular institution. Other miscellaneous associations, are the Sacred Music Society, for the improvement of church music ; the Chamber of Commerce, formed in 1768 ; the Board ol Trade ; the Board of UnderAvriters ; the Board of Stock and Exchange Brokers ; the New- York Lyceum, with a library and reading room, and annual lectures ; together with many other institutions of less note. NEW-YORK CITY. 23 BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. Among the benevolent institutions of the city, is the Institution for flie Blind situated on the Eighth Ave- nue. having seventy-two pupils ; the Institution for the Instruction of the Deaf and Dumb, incorporated in 1817, on Fiftieth-street, 3| miles from the City Hall, containing by the last report, 152 pupils ; the Lying-in- Asylum ; the Female Assistance Society, for the relief and instruction of the sick poor ; the society for respec- table aged Indigent Females ; the Orphan Asylum, es- tablished in 1806, situated on the Hudson at Blooming- dale, five miles from the City Hall, where great num- bers of indigent orphan children are reared and educat- ed ; the Protestant Half Orphan Asylum on Twelfth- street ; the Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum on Prince- street ; the Asylum for Colored Orphans, &c. The foreign residents have associations for charitable purposes, as the St. George's Society, composed of Eng- lishmen ; St. Andrew's, of Scotch ; St. Patrick's, of Irish ; St. David's, of Welch ; the French, German, Spanish and Hebrew Societies ; the St. Nicholas, composed of the descendants of the early Dutch inhabitants and others, and the New England Society. There are also numerous religious associations, as the Bible, Tract, Missionary, Sunday School, Education, and Seamen's Friend Societies, most of which are sus- tained by particular denominations or sects, each having its own distinct organization. PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. There are four Theatres in the city of New- York, be- sides numerous other places of amusement. Park Theatre, Situated on Park Row, facing the Astor House, is an old and fashionable place of resort for those fond of 24 DESCRIPTION OF theatrical entertainments. It was first erected in 1798, and the interior destroyed by fire May 24, 1820 ; it was rebuilt, except the walls which were left standing, and opened in August, 1821. This Theatre is calculated to seat about 2,000 persons. The Bowery Theatre, Was first erected in 1826. It was burnt in May, 1828, and immediately afterwards rebuilt, and opened in August of the same year. It has since been destroyed by fire, and again risen phanix-like, from its ashes. The new building is a fine specimen of the Doric order of architecture ; the interior being elegant and fitted up in a superior style. The Olympic Theatre, Situated on Broadway, above Canal-street, is a much frequented and popular place of amusement. The Chatham Theatre and Circus, Is situated on Chatham-street, and is an entertaining place of amusement. A new Italian Opera House, has recently been fitted up in Chambers-street, over the Arcade Baths, in the rear of the City Hall, and is called Palmo^s New- York Opera House. The Bowery Amphitheatre, or Circus, situated on the Bowery, near the Theatre, is also much fre- quented. Theatrical entertainments are given during the sum- mer at NiBLo's Garden, 576 Broadway, and at Vaux- hall Garden, 408 Bowery. Castle Garden, at the south-west angle of the Bat- tery, is also a place of much attraction, where is occa- sionally given a grand display of fire works. There are also several other Public Gardens, in dif- ferent parts of the city. NEW-YORK CITY. 25 The American Museum, At the corner of Broadway and Ann-street, is an old and popular place of amusement and instruction. It was founded by the late John Scudder in 1810, and now con- tains an immense collection of natural and artificial curi* osities, which have been brought together by the arduous and unremitting exertions of its proprietors, during a period of more than thirty years. It is now said to contain over half a million of specimens, arranged in six splendid halls, each measuring upwards of 100 feet in length. The New- York Museum, Formerly called Fettle's Museum, is situated on Broad- way opposite the City Hall. This is an extensive and in- teresting collection of natural and artificial curiosities, taken from every part of the world ; the whole being handsomely displayed in several spacious apartments. It contains also a Gallery of Portraits, and other paintings by eminent artists. "■' HOTELS AND PUBLIC HOUSES. No city is more amply supplied with Hotels and other Houses, for the accommodation of travellers and perma- nent boarders, than New- York. The most noted are sit- uated on Broadway, and they are usually thronged with pei'sons from all parts of the Union, and from foreign countries. The AsTOR House, built of granite, is a very exten- sive and imposing edifice ; being five stories high, and calculated to accommodate 400 guests. It is situated on Broadway, between Barclay and Vesey-streets. The others of note are included in the following enu- meration : The American Hotel, Broadway, corner Barclay-st. ,. Athenjeum Hotel, 347 Broadway, corner Leonard-st. C 26 DESCRIPTION OP Atlantic Hotel, 5 Broadway, near the Battery. Batteky Hotel, 8 Battery- Place, Caklton House, Broadway, corner Leonard-street. City Hotel, Broadway, between Cedar and Thames- streets. Clinton Hotel, Beekman, corner Nassau- street. Ckoton Hotel, (Temperance,) 142 Broadway. Dunning's Hotel, Cortlandt, corner Washington-st. Eagle Hotel, 61 Broadway. P Franklin House, Broadway, corner Dey-street. Globe Hotel, QQ Broadway. Howard's Hotel, Broadway, corner Maiden-Lane. Lovejoy's Hotel, Park-Row, corner Beekman-street. Mansion House, (Bunker's,) 39 Broadway. Merchants' Hotel, Cortlandt, near Green wich-st. Northern Hotel, Cortlandt, corner West-street. Pacific Hotel, 162 Greenwich- street. Pearl^Street House, 88 Pearl-street. United States Hotel, Fulton, between Pearl and Water- streets. Washington Hotel, Broadway, corner Reade-street. Waverley House, 56 Broadway. Western Hotel, 9 Cortlandt- street, near Broadway. Tammany Hall, Nassau, corner Frankfort- street, and several other Public Houses, are kept on the European Plan, of letting out rooms by the day or week, and the occupant getting his meals when and where he chooses. There are numerous private Boarding Houses, in dif- ferent parts of the city, affording all the quiet and comfort that can be desired, varying in their charges according to their situation and style of living. There are also a great number of Restaurants, or Eating Houses, in the lower part of the city, which are much resorted to by citizens and strangers, — the bills of fare being generally good, and the charges reasonable. NEW-YORK CITY. 27 HACKNEY COACHES, CABS AND OMNIBUSSES, Throng the principal streets, especially Broadway and the Bowery. Regular lines of Omnibussesrun between the upper and lower parts of the city, affording a cheap and certain mode of conveyance. Hackney Coaches and Cabs are to be found at the various stands in different parts of the city, and at the Steamboat landings. In order to guEflfd against impositions from their drivers, it is neces- sary that the stranger should make himself acquainted with the rates of fare allowed by law, to violate which subjects them to a fine. These rates are — for conveying a passenger any distance not exceeding one mile, 37| cents ; and for every additional passenger, 25 cents, in- cluding ordinary baggage. MARKETS, The largest and most important Markets are, Fulton Mabket, situated on South-street, between Fulton and Beekman-streets. Washington Market, on West-street, between Ful- ton and Dey- streets. Catharine Market, in Catharine- street, running from Cherry to South- street. Centre Market, between Grand and Broome-streets. Essex Market, on Grand-street, corner Essex-street, Clinton Market, at the foot of Canal-street ; be- sides Jefferson, Union, Greenwich, Tompkins, Gouver- neur, Monroe, and Franklin Markets, situated in different parts of the city — all being abundantly supplied with every variety of meats, fish, fruit and vegetables that the country affords. 28 DESCRIPTION OF TRADE AND COMMERCE. The trade and navigation of the city of New- York are immense. The average number of arrivals, American and foreign, amount to about 2000 annually, independently of coasters from different parts of the Union. A great num- ber of steamboats also arrive and depart daily, carry- ing passengers and merchandize. The wharves are crowded with vessels, sometimes exceeding one thousand in number, from all countries and of almost every size and rig, giving constant employment to a great number of mariners. The number of wharves or piers for the use of the ship- ping, on the East River, is 60 ; on the Hudson, 53. The numerous packet ships, and most of the foreign vessels lie in the East River. The amount of capital invested in marine insurance is over three millions of dollars, exclusive of companies for mutual assurance. There are twenty-three Fire Insur- ance Companies, with an aggregate capital of six millions. The number of Banks is twenty-nine, having a capital of about twenty-five millions. There are two Gas Light Companies, with a capital of $1,500,000. The Farmers' Loan and Trust Company Las a capital of $2,000,000, and the Life Insurance and Trust Company a capital of $1,000,000. The rapid increase of the city in population, wealth, trade and navigation, during the last fifteen or twenty years, is attributable for the most part to the opening of the Erie canal, and other internal improvements. BUILDINGS. The number of dwelling houses in the city in 1840, was 16,458 ; dwellings with stores, 6,614; stores and of- ces, 3,855 ; other buildings, 5,189 ; making a grand to- tal of 32,116 buildings of diff'erent kinds. NEW-YORK CITY. 29 CROTON AQUEDUCT. This Aqueduct, for supplying the city of New- York with pure and wholesome water, is one of the most ad- mirable works of the kind to be found in any country. Excluding the Grand Reservoir, 5 miles long and having an area of about 400 acres, occupying the bed and valley of the Croton river, the length of the Aqueduct, from the Dam which forms that Reservoir, to the Distributing Re- servoir on Murray Hill in New- York, is 40^ miles. The Dam is placed, in the Croton river, about 6 miles from its confluence with the Hudson ; and it elevates the water in the Reservoir 40 feet to the level of the Aqueduct Head, or 166 feet above the top line of mean-tide in the Hud- son. Passing from the Dam down the Croton valley about 6 miles, the Aqueduct turns into the valleyof the Hudson and runs southerly through Westchester county, 32.88 miles, to the verge of the Harlem River valley. Throughout this distance the Aqueduct is a continuous conduit of stone and brick masonry. The width of the the Harlem valley, at the height of the conduit level, is about 1,450 feet, or a little more than } mile ; and the A- queduct crosses it in cast-iron pipes of 3 feet bore, on a level 114 feet above the ordinary high- water surface of the river. On reaching the southern verge of this valley, on the Island of New- York, the pipes give place again to the conduit of masorry, which thus continues for 2 miles and a fraction over, to the verge of the high ground over- looking the Manhattan valley. At that point the conduit level is 102 feet higher than the bottom of the valley, which, at the height of the level, is a fraction ever | mile wide. The conduit passes this valley in cast-iron pipes, of the bore already stated, following the valley- curve ; and on ascending to the southern verge of the curves the pipes again give place to the conduit of ma- 30 DESCRIPTIOW OF sonry, which, crossing the Asylum ridge in Blooming- dale, and the Clendenning valley, runs a little more than two mil^s, to the great Receiving Reservoir, on York- Hill, 5 miles and a little over from the City Hall. This Receiving Reservoir includes an area of 35 acres, being 1,826 feet long by 836 feet wide, measuring from the external angles of the enclosing embankment, and it is divided by a cross wall into two parts of unequal capacities. From this Reservoir the Aqueduct, with a conduit of cast-iron pipes of the size before mentioned, continues a fraction over 2 miles, to the Distributing Reservoir at Murray Hill. Itis 420 feet square, as mea- sured on the cornice of the outer wall ; it contains an area of a little more than 4 acres, divided into two equal parts by a partition wall ; its enclosing walls have an average height of 44^ feet above the adjacent streets, and it is 3 miles from the City Hall. From this Reservoir the water is drawn in large cast- iron pipes called the Great Mains, which lead through the central parts of the city, and from which the distri- bution of the water for use, is made by pipes of various dimensions, diminishing in size as the ramifications ex- tend. The aggregate length of the Great Mains is about four miles ; and if they be included in the linear measure- ment, together with the Croton Reservoir above the Dam, the entire distance falls but little short of 50 miles. Of the excavation required for grading the line and constructing the Aqueduct, the larger moiety was of rock, and amounted to somewhat more than 400,000 cu- bic yards. The shape of the country for much of the way presents a succession of transverse ridges and ravines, to be cut, tunneled, or embanked, and swelling the cost of the work. NEW-YORK CITY. 31 The whole number of tunnels is 16, varying in length from 160 feet to 1,263 feet each, and making a total of 6,841 feet, with roofs varying from 25 feet to 75 feet in vertical depth. In Westchester county 25 streams are crossed, with beds from 12 feet to 70 feet below the grade line of the Aqueduct, to say nothing of many small brooks, and all requiring, for the safety of the work, culverts of mason- ry. The whole number of culverts is 114, varying in span, from 1| feet to 25 feet each, and making an ag- gregate length of 7,959 linear feet. The grandest structure is the Bridge over the Harlem River and valley. The width of the river itself is 620 feet, and that of the valley a little more than a quarter of a mile, which is the length of the Bridge. The arches over the river are 8 in number, with a span of 80 feet each, springing from stone piers 20 feet wide at the spring- line, which is 60 feet above the surface of the river at high- water mark ; and the arches being semicircles, the spring is half the span, making the whole height 100 feet from the river surface to the soffit, or under side of the centre of these arches. On the north side of these large arches are 6 others and on the south side one, of 50 feet span each, resting on piers 7 feet wide, which, with the abutment at each end, complete the supports of the Bridge. The parapet walls and the whole superstructure are of stone j the whole width at the top of the parapets being 21 feet, and the height at the same line being 114 feet above the water. These dimensions give the exter- nal aspect of this magnificent work. The Receiving Reservoir at York Hill, is formed with vast earth embankments perfectly puddled, protect- ed externally by massy walls of stone masonry, and de- 32 DESCRIPTION OF signed to contain 20 feet depth of water measuring 150 millions of gallons. The Distributing Reservoir, at Murray Hill, is formed with double and hollow walls of heavy masonry. Their least height is 39 feet and their greatest 49 feet, strengthened at the corners with pilasters, or buttresses, projecting from the wall- face four feet and being 40 feet wide, while at the points equi-distant from the corners these buttresses are 60 feet wide, projecting from the wall- face six feet. In both cases they rise several feet above the top of the walls, which is guarded all round with an iron railing running along the cornice. In the central pilasters are doors leading to the pipe-chambers in the walls where the cocks are regulated. The inside of these walls is strengthened with a sloping and heavy puddled embank- ment, faced with rubble masonry and coped with cut stone. The bottom of the Reservoir is a dense hardpan, covered with puddle two feet thick, and then floored one foot thick with hydraulic concrete. This Reservoir is calculated to hold 30 feet depth of water, with its surface 115 feet above mean- tide, and measuring 20 millions of gallons. The first contracts for construction, were made in April 1837, and the work commenced in the next month. The whole work was so far completed that the water was let in from the Croton Dam, June 22d 1842, and was admit- ted into the Distributing Reservoir, on the 4th of July following. The event of its completion, so far as to afford an abundant and constant supply of water, was celebrated with great pomp and parade on the 14th day of Oct. 1842. The total cost of this noble and useful work, will amount to about $12,000,000. But the supply of pure and wholesome water to the in- habitants of New- York, for all culinary and household JTEW-YORK CITY. 33 uses, does not, by any means, constitute the whole value of this great work. The supply of pure water, in larger abun- dance, to public bathing-houses and hospitals — its aid in cleaning streets — its utility as a permanent and ready pro- tection against fires, and its consequent influence in re- ducing the expense of insurance and enhancing the value of property — all conducive to the health, comfort, safety and economy of life — are important blessings resulting from this work, and they are certain to multiply with the growth of the city. Nor are these all its advantages. Even the means thus afforded for the mere embellishment of the city with fountains in the public squares, should not be overlooked ; for whatever adds to its attractions as a place of residence, is an obvious and substantial benefit to all classes, and especially to the holders of real estate. Of this mode of embellishment several specimens have already been furnished, and the Fountains in the Bowling Green, the Park, Union Place, and St. John's Park, are celebrated for the height of their jets, and for picturesque beauty of design and general eff'ect. FIRE DEPARTMENT. The FiKE Depaktment is well organized, and cost during the year 1841, $76,788.53 ; there were 48 engines, 33 hose carriages, '48,450 feet hose, 47 ladders, 53 hooks, and 7 hook and ladder trucks, belonging to the Depart- ment. The number of engine companies was 48, hose companies 34, hook and ladder companies 7, hydrant com- panies 3, and the number of men in the Department 1,639. CITY COURTS. The Courts in the city of local jurisdiction, are the fol- lowing : The Superior Court, composed of a Chief Jus- tice and two Justices ; the Court of Common Pleas, or County Court, consisting of a First Judge, and two A&- 34 DESCRIPTION OF sociate Judges, together with the Mayor, Recorder and Aldermen, Judges ex- officio ; the Vice- Chancellor and Assistant Vice- Chancellor's Courts ; the Marine Court, (jurisdiction limited to $100, except in marine cases,) and six Justices' or Ward Courts, (limited to $50.) CITY POLICE. The Police of the city depends for its efficiency on the personal character of the Mayor, its head ; but the sys- tem is believed to be extremely defective. There were confined in the Penitentiary on Blackwell's Island, at the close of 1841, 842 convicts — 396 males and 446 females. Of this number 230 were sentenced by the criminal courts, and the remainder were vagrants committed by Justices of the Police. The number of Watchmen employed at night, is 956, at an average expense of over $200,000 per annum. rERRIES. The public Ferries, running from the city of New- York to adjacent places, are as follow : South Ferry, from Whitehall- st. to Atlantic-st. Brooklyn. Fulton Ferry, " Fulton-st. " Fulton-st. " Catharine Fer. " Catharine-st. '' Main-st. '' Walnut Ferry, " Walnut-st. '' Jackson-st. " Peck Slip Fer. " Peck Slip, to S. 7th. st. Williamsburgh. Grand-st. Fer. '' Grand-st. to Grand-st. '* Houston Fer. " Houston-st. to " " Hell-Gate Fer. '^ Eighty-Sixth-st. to Astoria, Long-Isla'd. Staten Is. Fer. '* Battery Place to Staten Island. Jersey City Fr. " Cortlandt-st. " Jersey City, New-Jer. Barclay-st. Fr. " Barclay-st. '' Hoboken, *' Canal-st. Fer. '' Canal-street '' " ^' Christopher-st. Fr. from Christopher st. to Hoboken,N. J. Fort-Lee and Bull's Fer. from Canal-st. to Fort-Lee, " NEW-YORK CITY. 35 STEAMBOATS AND PACKETS. Steamboats leave the city daily during the greater part of the year for Albany, Troy, Hudson, Poughkeepsie, Newburgh, Peekskill, Haverstraw, Sing-Sing, Piermont, and other places on the Hudson. For Providence and Nevv^port in Rhode-Island. Stonington, Norwich, New- London, Hartford, New-Haven, Bridgeport, and Stam- ford, in Connecticut, by Long Island Sound. For Eliza- bethport, Newark, Amboy, New-Brunswick, and Shrews- bury, in New- Jersey ; and for various landings on Long Island. Steamers also plybetween this city and London; Liver- pool, and Bristol, England. Lines of packet ships sail with great regularity to va- rious ports in Europe, the West Indies, South America, and the United States. RAILROADS. New- York and Philadelphia Railroad Lines. In addition to the Camden and Amhoy Railroad^ which connects with a line of Steamboats, landing near the Battery ; there is the New- Jersey Railroad, commencing at Jersey City, opposite Cortlandt-street, connecting with a line of railroads extending to Philadelphia, 86 miles. Passengers leave New-York, by the latter route, from the foot of Liberty-street j being conveyed to Jersey City in a commodious steam ferry boat. Elizabethtown and Somerville Railroad. Passengers by this Railroad and Steamboat Line, leave New- York from the foot of Battery Place, touching at New-Brighton and Port Richmond, on Staten Island. Paterson and Hudson Railroad. Passengers going to Paterson, N. J., 17 miles by rail- road, leave New- York from the foot of Cortlandt-street. 36 RAILROADS AND STAGES. Long-Island Railroad. Passengers by this route leave New- York from the foot of Whitehall-street, for different places on Long-Island. This railroad is now finished from Brooklyn to Smith- town, Suffolk county, a distance ol 47 miles. Harlem Railroad. Passengers leave the city from near the City Hall, for the different places on the line of the Harlem Railroad, which is now finished to Williams' Bridge, a distance of 14^ miles, on Bronx river. • New-York and Erie Railroad. A Steamboat leaves New-York daily, from the foot of Duane- street, for Piermont, a distance of 24 miles; con- necting with cars running on this railroad to* Goshen and Middletown, in Orange county, a further distance of 53 miles. Stages for Milford, Honesdale and Binghamton, run from the cars on their arrival at Middletown. STAGES. A line of Stages run from New- York, through New- Jersey and into Pennsylvania ; thence to Binghamton in the state of New- York, connecting with a line of travel north to Utica, and west to Owego. Stages usually leave Cortlandt- street, during the winter months, for Albany and the intermediate places on the east side of the Hudson river ; while a line runs from the New- York and Erie Railroad, diverging from Turner's Depot, on the west side of the river. Stages leave the Bowery several times daily, for Har- lem, Manhattanville and difl'erent places in Westchester county. Stages also leave Franklin Square and Brooklyn, for Flushing, Jamaica, Fort Hamilton, and other places on ,Long Island. VICINITY OF NEW-YORK. 37 FASHIONABLE PLACES OF RESORT IN THE VICINITY OF THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. In the vicinity of New- York are mjmerous places of resort, which are easily reached by means of Steamboats, Railroads and Stages. Among the most favorite Steam- boat Excursions, may be named a trip to any of the va- rious places on the Hudson river — to Staten Island — to Shrewsbury and Long Branch — and through the East Ri- ver, to the various places on both sides of Long Island Sound J being all delightful, especially during the warm season. The resorts on the Hudson, most worthy of a visit, are fully described under the head of the " Hudson Ri- ver and its Vicinity. ^^ Staten Island, lying about six miles to the south of the city, surrounded in part by the beautiful bay of New- York, presents many attractions, and is much frequented. Steamboats leave New- York several times during the day, from the foot of Whitehall- street, for Tompkins- ville and Stapleton, both facing the Quarantine Ground ; also, from the foot of Battery Place, for New-Brighton and Port Richmond, on Staten Island Sound. The Ocean House, near Sandy Hook, is much re- sorted to during the summer months. Shrewsbury, Red Banks and Tinton Falls, all situated on a stream called Shrewsbury River, which emp- ties into the ocean near Sandy Hook, are also favorite resorts. A steamboat leaves New- York daily, from near Fulton Market on the East River, for the above places. Long Branch, 30 miles southof the city of New- York, is on the eastern shore of New- Jersey, facing the Atlantic Ocean, and affords a grand view of the coast for many miles. This is an old and fashionable resort for those who are fond of fishing or sea bathing, for which pur- 38 VICINITY OF NEW-YORK. pose it is considered equal to any resort in the vicinity of New- York or Philadelphia. Cape May, at the mouth of Delaware Bay, the ex- treme south part of New-Jersey, has of late attracted much attention as a watering place ; extensive accommo- dations are now being erected for the convenience of visiters. The places of resort on Long Island are numerous and present various attractions during warm weather, to invalids and seekers of pleasure. The city of Brooklyn, connected with New- York by four ferries, on which are placed commodious steam ferry boats, is a place of healthy and delightful residence, and much resorted to by pedestrians. The United States Navy Yard, on Wallabout Bay is well worthy of a visit. Greenwood Cemetery, near Gowanus, two or three miles south of the city of New- York, is a romantic and well selected burial place for the dead. Flatbush, on the road to Fort Hamilton and Coney Island, is delightfully situated, distant 3 miles from Brooklyn. East New- York, Union Race Course, and Jamai- ca, are all situated on the line of the Long-Island Rail- road, and are easily reached by cars or stages. The village of Hempstead, 23 miles from Brooklyn, by railroad, is celebrated as being a delightful place of residence, and a favorite resort. All who are fond of sea bathing, the invigorating sea breeze, or hunting and fishing, may find abundunt grati- fication at Fort Hamilton, situated at the " Narrows," where has recently been opened a commodious hotel ; at Bath House, on Gravesend Bay, an old and favorite resort ; or at VICIlSriTY OP NEW-YORK. 39 Coney Island, facing the Atlantic ocean, where are several well kept public houses. Stages leave Brooklyn several times daily, during the summer months, for the above fashionable resorts, pas- sing through the pleasant villages of Flatbush and 'New Utrecht. RocKAWAY Beach, with its splendid hotel, the Ma- rine Pavilion, and other public houses, has been long and deservedly a favorite resort during warm weather. The most desirable mode of conveyance to Rockaway, is by railroad cars to Jamaica, and thence by stage ; being distant about 20 miles from the city of New- York. Besides these, there are other agreeable and still more retired retreats on the south side of Long Island, farther east. In Great South Bay, extending from Hempstead to Southampton, a distance of 50 miles, are to be found inexhaustible quantities of scale and shell fish of difFe* rent kinds, and countless numbers of wild fowl. Montauk Point, the eastern extremity of Long Is- land, 140 miles from the city of New- York — with its rugged and beetling clifi's — its foaming breakers, and the mighty ocean in front, is a spot surrounded by great grandeur and beauty. Flushing, 9 miles east of New- York, is a delightful and retired place of residence and resort. Here is situa- ted the LinncEan Botanic Garden, which possesses many attractions and is much visited. Glen-Cove, Oyster Bay and Cold Springs, on the north side of Long Island, are also much frequented in summer. New-Rochelle, and other places on the Westches- ter shore of Long Island Sound, are also well worthy of a visit, and are much resorted to during the summer months by fashionable visiters. 40 VICINITY OF NEW-YORK. Daily lines cf steamboatSj in addition to stages, run from the city of New- York, to most of the places on both sides of Long Island Sound, affording cheap and speedy modes of conveyance. Various places on the Island of New- York, and in Westchester county, near the line of the Harlem. Rail- road, are also much visited. Stages leave the present termination of the railroad at Williams' Bridge, for "West- Farms, Eastchester, New-Rochelle Mamaroneck, Rye and Port- Chester on the Sound, and White Plains, and other places in the interior of Westchester county. ■ In the neighboring region of New-Jersey, also, are several places of much interest, not only to the lover of the picturesque, but to the social economist ; and they are easily reached by the railroads Vvhich diverge from Jersey City opposite New- York, Among these, besides Hoboken, Weehawken, the Elysian Fields, and other points near the shore of the Hudson, are the Passaic Falls, near the celebrated manufacturing village of Paterson, distant 17 miles from New-York. The whole descent of the Passaic, at this spot, is from 60 to 70 feet. In the first portion of its descent the river rushes over a steep slope of deeply rifted rock, and then makes a clear pitch of some 30 or 40 feet into a narrow, wedge- shaped and transverse chasm, with a high wall of perpen- dicular rock fronting the falls and right athwart the course of the stream, compelling the boiling waters to pass out of the chasm nearly at right angles with their previous direction, into the broad and black pool immediately be- low, which is walled in, for many rods on each side of the gorge, by perpendicular cliffs cf naked rock 80 or 90 feet high, greatly augmenting the grandeur of the scene. As the river escapes from this magnificent basin, it makes another sharp angle, and thus resuming nearly VICIWITY OF NEW-YORK. 41 the direction of the current ahove the falls, it flows away with a gentle descent through a fertile and cultivated val. ley of meadow, pasture, and arable lands. The con- trasts presented by the scene are various and striking, greatly enhancing its beauty, especially when the volume of the river is swelled by heavy rains. Of late years, however, some of the finest features of the place are im- paired in their expression by the diversion of much of the water, taken out above the falls and led away through the village of Paterson, for hydraulic uses. Still, the loss thus suffered by the picturesque, is amply compen- sated by gain to the useful, and by the associated images of individual and social benefit, of improving arts, and general prosperity. The Morris Canal passes a little to the south of Pas- saic Falls, on its roiUe from Jersey City across the state to the Delaware river, which it reaches at Easton, dis- tant from the Hudson 100 miles by this line. Newark, Elizabethtown, New Brunswick, and other places on the line of the New Jersey Railroad, are easily reached by means of steamboats and railroad cars. MoRRisTowN, 22 miles from Newark, is connected with the latter place by railroad, passing through the vil- lage of Orange, where there is a Mineral Spring of con- siderable celebrity. Schooley's Mountain, w^hich is usually approached from New- York by means of railroad and stages passing through Elizabethtown and Somerville, is a place of much fashionable resort, during the summer months, owing to its high, airy, and healthy situation. The extensive prospect afforded from its top, on which is located an excellent public house, is perhaps unrivalled. Belmont Hall, situated on the highest part of the moun- tain, 2,000 feet above tide water, is surrounded by a park D 42 EASTERN LINES OF TRAVEL. of many acres richly adorned with forest, fruit, and orna- mental trees. The proprietor has left nothing undone to give general satisfaction to his numerous visiters. A short distance from the hotel are Mineral Springs, where much has recently been expended for the comfort of visi- ters washing to enjoy this pure chalybeate at the fountain. The distance from the city of New York to Elizabeth- port, by steamboat, is 12 miles ; from Elizabethport to Somerville, by railroad, 26 miles ; from SomerviJle to Schooley's Mountain, by stage, 20 miles. Passengers from Philadelphia, usually leave the railroad cars at New Brunswick and proceed to the mountain by stage. EASTERN LINES OF TRAVEL THROUGH LONG ISLAND SOUND. There are at present three great lines of travel be- tween the cities of New- York and Boston, by steamboats and railroad cars. 1. A line of Steamboats leave New-York for New Ha- ven, daily, Sundays excepted, from Peck slip. East River, at 6 o'clock A. M. in summer, and at 7 A. M. in winter. Distance, 80 miles. The New Haven and Hartford Railroad, extends from Hew Haven to Hartford, a further distance of 3S miles. A line of Steamboats also run direct from New- York to Hartford, via Saybrook, daily, Sundays excepted, from the 1st April to 1st December. In winter, passengers for Hartford are carried via New Haven. From Hartford, a line of travel extends up the valley of the Connecticut river ; at Springfield, a distance of 25 miles, it intersects the Western Railroad of Massachu- setts, one of the great links of railroads extending from Boston to Buffalo, a total distance of 525 miles. Distance from Springfield to Boston, by railroad, 93 miles. " " Albany, " 102 miles. EASTERN LINES OF TRAVEL. 43 2. A line of Steamboats leave New- York for New London and Norwich, daily, Sundays excepted, starting from Pier No. 1, North River, at 5 o'clock P. M. in the summer and 4 P. M. in winter. Distance to Norwich by water. 133 miles. The Norwich and Worcester Railroad now extends from Allen's Point, 7 miles below Norwich, to Worces- ter, Mass., a whole distance of 66 miles, connecting with the great east and west line already mentioned. Distance from Worcester to Boston, by railroad, 44 miles. The total distance between New-York and Boston, by this route, is 235 miles j usual time, 15 hours. 3. A line of Steamboats of the first class, leave New- York daily, Sundays excepted, in the afternoon, from the foot of Battery Place, for Stonington, Newport and Pro« vidence, connecting with railroads running to Boston. At Stonington, 135 miles from New- York, by water, commences the Providence and Stonington Railroad^ extending to Providence, a distance of 47 miles. The Boston and Providence Railroad, extends a further dis- tance of 42 miles j making the total distance between New- York and Boston, by this route, 224 miles ; usual time, 14 1 hours. HOUSATONIC ROUTE BETWEEN NEW-YORK AND ALBANY. In addition to the above lines cf travel through Long Island Sound, and the states of Connecticut, Rhode Is* land, and Massachusetts — a Steamboat leaves New- York, daily, Sundays excepted, for Bridgeport, Conn. ; distance 60 miles. During the close of navigation on the Hudson River, this is the most expeditious and desirable routie between the commercial and political capitals cf the state of New- York. 44 HOUSATONIC ROUTE. At Bridgeport commences the Housatonic Railroad, which, in connection with the Berkshire Railroad, and the Jllhany and West Stockbridge Railroad, unites the cities of New- York and Albany, by one connected line of steamboats and railroads. Total distance, 198 miles ; usual time, 15 hours. Distances between New-York and Albany, via Bridgeport. To Bridgeport, by Steamboat, 60 miles. Stepney, by Railroad, 10 70 '* Bottsford, 5 75 " Newtown, 5 80 " Brook-field, 10 90 " Housatonic River, 6 96 " New Milford, 1 97 " Gaylcrd's Bridge, 6 103 '' Kent, 6 109 '' Cornwall, 12 121 '' Canaan Falls Village, 6 127 " Connecticut State Line, 7 134 Sheffield, Mass 6 140 Great Barrington, 6 146 West Stockbridge, 12 158 New-York State Line, 2 160 Tunnel, (600 feet long,) 2 162 Chatham Four Corners, 13 175 Kinderhook, 7 182 Schodack, 8 190 Albany, ...... ..0....C. 8 198 i( It I'/. / /^ DJ'' cf'hjj^ .// ^ vj.y oy i{ I ' 'J^^R AVilh die dJa HUDSON RIVER AND ITS VICINITY. During the season of navigation on the Hudson, which usually extends from about the 20th of March to the fore- part of December, numerous steamboats leave the city of New- York every morning and evening, for various pla- ces on both shores of the river. The boats of the largest class, nowhere excelled for comfort and speed, run through to Albany and Troy, about 150 miles, in ten to twelve hours running time, and touch at the principal villages on the way, to land and receive passengers. Usual fare •v. through. $2.00, including berths in the night boats. To the traveller for pleasure and health, the day boats are the most desirable, particularly in hot weather, when a night's confinement in a crowded cabin is very oppres- sive ; and they furnish a fine opportunity to enjoy the varied and beautiful scenery of this noble river. The panoramic view on leaving the city is extensive and grand. Seaward it embraces parts of Long Island and Staten Island with the '' Narrows," — the spacious Bay of New- York studded with Governor's, Bedlow's, and Ellis's Islands — the Jersey shore, on the west, with its settlements and cultivated fields — and on the east the city itself with its long ranges of wharves and shipping, its spires, and its masses of architecture — and as the boat rounds out upon the bosom of the majestic river and springs forward on her upward course, the view, crowded with striking contrasts and full of life and action, is one of rare beauty and interest. Jersey City opposite the lower part of New- York, and HoBOKEN a mile north, are seen to great advantage 46 HUDSON RIVER as the steamboat leaves the wharf. At the former place commences the Neiv Jersey j and Pater son Railroads ; and the latter place is a delightful and favorite resort of the citizens of New- York, during the warm summer sea- son, when the commodious steam ferry boats are crowd- ed every afternoon with parties of both sexes, seeking refreshment from the heated and thronged streets of the city, in that charming retreat. Weehawken, on the Jersey shore north of Hoboken and 3 miles from New- York, a high wooded cliif, with its bold rocky bluffs partly veiled with trees and partly bare, and a handsome villa on its summit is one of the finest points in the scene as you move up the river. At the foot of this cliff' and on the margin of the river a small obelisk of white marble for many years marked the spot where Alexander Hamilton fell in his fatal duel with Aaron Burr, on the 12th July, 1804. The monument, however, has long since been removed. Bull's Ferry, 2 to 3 miles further north, on the game shore, is a place of considerable resort, being con- nected with the city by a steam ferry. Bloomingdale, on York Island, 5 miles from the City Hall, is a scattered settlement, in which the most promi- nent object is the Orphan Asylum, which, as seen from the river, with its green lawn extending to the water's edge and surrounded by a fine grove, presents a pleasing aspect. About 3 miles further up the island, or 8 miles from the City Hall, is the Lunatic Asylum, a stately pile stand- ing on elevated ground. The next conspicuous object on the island, and visible from the Hudson, isMANHATTANviLLE, about a mile and a half east of which, toward the East River and near Hell-Gate, is the village of Harlem. AND ITS VICINITY. 47 Fort Washington, 2 miles north of Manhattanville, is elevated 238 feet above the river, being the highest point on the island of New- York. This old fort was captured by the British and Hessians, in the disastrous campaign of 1776, when some two or three thousand Amer- icans were either killed or taken captive, and thrown into the prison-ships at the Wallabout Bay, where the United States now have an extensive Navy- Yard, near Brooklyn. Fort Lee, on the Jersey shore, 10 miles from New- York, is a place of considerable interest, and between it and that city a steam ferry boat plies daily. The site of the old fort is on the brow of the Palisades, a short dis- tance from the river and elevated about 300 feet above it. It was surrendered to the British in 1776, immediately after the capture of Fort Washington. The Palisades, the most striking and peculiar feature of the scenery on either side of the Hudson, commence a little north of Weehawken, and on the same shore. This descriptive designation has been given to a majestic range of columnar rock, varying in height from 50 feet to 3 and 400 feet, and walling in the Hudson as far as Piermont, a distance of 20 miles. Just above Fort Lee they rise, almost perpendicularly, from the water's edge ; and as the channel of the river, for the whole 20 miles, runs very near the west side and along the base of these ma- jestic cliffs, they are seen to great advantage from the decks of the steamboats. Spuvten Duyvel Creek flows into the Hudson 13 miles north of the City Hall of New- York, and connects with the Harlem river on the east, thus separating the Island of New- York from Westchester county. Kings- bridge, on the great post-road from New- York to Albany, crosses this creek about a mile from its mouth, near which on the north bank, is the site of old Fort Independence, 48 HUDSON RIVER Here commences a succession of beautifully situated country residences, looking out upon the river and across it to the Palisades ; the shore itself being marked by a succession of narrow valleys and ridges running back with a gradual ascent to the north and south range of highland, which separates the waters flowing into the Hudson, from those which pass off to the East River and Long Island Sound. As you advance up through Westchester, this north and south ridge becomes more elevated and rocky. It is, in fact, the commencement of that extensive and lofty range which soon enlarges itself into the Fishkill Mountains, further north swells into the still loftier Tagh- kanic group, and finally attains its highest grandeur in the Green Mountains of Vermont. YoNKERS, 17 miles north of New- York, is a thriving village in Westchester county, at the mouth of Saw-mill river. It contains about 80 dwelling houses and some 500 or 600 inhabitants, and is the summer resort of many citi- zens of New-York, being easily reached by the steam- boats which ply daily between that city, Sing-Sing an:l Peekskill. It is surrounded by very pleasant scenery and commands a fine view of the Hudson and the Palisades. Hastings, 3 miles north of Yonkers, is a convenient landing-place, at which the smaller steamboats touch to receive and discharge passengers. Dobb's Ferry, 22 miles north of New- York, is a small settlement with a steamboat wharf. This was an impor- tant point in the military operations of the Revolutionary war. A ferry communicates with the opposite shore at the foot of the Palisades, a little north of the boundary line between the States of New-York and New-Jersey ; and from this point northward both sides of the Hudson are in New- York. AND ITS VICINITY. 49 PiEKMONT, formerly known as Tappan Landing, or the " Sloat," is on the west shore of the Hudson, 24 miles from the city of New- York. It has become a place of importance as the terininus of the New-York and Erie Railroad. The line of this great work, from Piermont to Dunkirk on the shore of Lake Erie, is 446 miles long. In 1841, the section extending from Piermont, which is in the county of Rockland, to Goshen in Orange county, 46 miles, was finished and put in operation. Since that time, the completion of 7 miles more, extends the road to Middletown. At Piermont a substantial pier, more than a mile long, has been constructed, extending from the shore to the channel of the Hudson. A steamboat plies daily between this place and New- York, and connects with the cars running on the railroad. At this point, also, the Palisades terminate on the north by an abrupt hill. This hill, and the extensive pie?" already mentioned, be- ing the two most distinguishing features of the place, they have been appropriately combined to form the name of Piermont. Distances on the New- York and Ekie' Railroad FnoM Piermont to Middletown. To Blauveltville, 4 miles. Clarkstown, 5 9" Mousey's, 4 13 ** SufFern's, 5 18 '' Ramapo, 2 20 '' Monroe Works, 8 28 " Turner's, (17 miles from Newburgh,) . 5 33 " Monroe village, 3 36 " Chester, 5 41 " Goshen, 5 46 '* Newhampton, 4 50 '• Middletown, 3 53 " Two or three miles west from the river is the old vil- lage of Tappan, memorable as having been for a time, 60 HUDSON RIVER the Head-Quarters of Washington and the American army during the Revolution, and the place where Major Andre was executed on the 2d of October, 1780. Tappan Bay — or, as it was usually called in earlier times, Tappan Sea — heing an expansion of tlie river, commences at Piermont and extends northward to Tel* ler's Point, a distance of 10 miles, with an average wddth of about 3 miles. On the eastern shore of this Bay, in the midst of a beautiful landscape, is the favorite country residence of Washington Irving. Nowhere on either shore of the Hudson is the scenery more distinguished for its picturesque beauty, having the Palisades in full view at the southwest ; at the west and north a fine range of hills jstretching away to the grand mountain masses of the " Highlands," with the broad river between. Irving, is the name given to a small settlement about one mile south of the village of Tarrytown, which is beautifully situated on the east bank of the river, overlooking Tappan Bay, 27 miles north of the city of New-York. It contains about 100 dwelling houses and 1,000 inhabitants. Steamboats run- ning to New- York, touch daily at this place. Immediate- ly north is Beekmantown, where is the Irving Institute, a school of much celebrity, and a venerable Dutch Re. formed Church, erected about the middle of the 17th cen- tury. Tarrytown is famed as being the place where Major Andre was captured while watering his horse, on his re- turn from West Point, and from a personal interview with the traitor, Gen, Arnold. Immediately north of this village, also, is the famous Sleepy Hollow, where Wash- ington Irving laid the scene of his entertaining legend of that name. Nyack, on the western side of the bay or river, is a pleasant and thriving place, between which and New- AND ITS VICINITY. 51 York, a steamboat plies daily. Here Tappan Bay spreads to its greatest width, presenting a noble expanse of water. Rockland Lake, 2 or 3 miles northwest of Nyack, is a picturesque sheet of the purest water, from which large quantities of ice are annually sent to the New- York market. Sing-Sing is handsomely situated on the east bank of the Hudson river. It has four landings, from which steamboats and vessels ply daily to and from the city of New- York, a distance of 33 miles. The main part of the village is situated on high and uneven ground, rising 180 feet above tide water, and overlooking Tappan and Haverstraw Bays, the Hudson and Crcton rivers, and the surrounding country, including a distant view of the Palisades and the Highlands. Sing- Sing was incorporated in 1813, and now contains about 2,500 inhabitants. This village derives its name from the Indian words " Ossin- Sing," meaning in their language, the place of stone. It is now celebrated for its marble quarries, which are work- ed to a great extent by the state prison convicts, who have here erected 2 large prisons, a keeper's house and several ranges of work shops, from materials found on the state farm ; where is also located a silver mine, which was worked to some extent previous to the Revolution^ and a copper mine which has been more recently worked. The marble found in this vicinity, is of a medium quality and almost inexhaustible ; large quantities are annually quar- ried and sent to the city of New- York and other places. The Mount Pleasant State Prison, situated about half a mile south of the village of Sing-Sing, contained in 1840, 827 male and female convicts, of whom 60 were females. The prison grounds consist of 130 acres of land, lying between the villages of Sing-Sing and Sparta ; being bounded on the east by the Highland turnpike, and on the 62 HUDSON RIVER west by the Hudson river, which here affords a depth of twelve feet of water at the landing. The main prison building is four hundred and eighty- four feet in length, north and south, and forty-four feet in width, fronting westerly on the Hudson, being 5 stories in height and con- taining 1,000 cells ; in front and rear are located work shops of different kinds, which, together with the keeper's house, are all built of rough dress marble. Attached to the prison building on the south, is a chapel, hospital, kitchen, storehouses, &c. A new prison for female con- victs stands on elevated ground, and is built of marble in the Ionic order. Teller's Point, about a mile north of Sing-Sing, separates Tappan from Haverstraw Bay. It projects southerly into the river more than a mile, immediately above the confluence of the Croton river, with the Hud- son. On the opposite side of the river, rises Verdreitje^s Hook, a bold headland 663 feet high, forming a beautiful feature in the landscape. Haverstraw Bay, is another expansion of the Hud- son river, 2 to 3 miles wide and 6 miles long, terminating on the north at Verplank's and Stony Points. Haverstraw or Warren, lies on the west side of the bay or river, 35 miles from New-York, to which city a steamboat runs daily. Grassy Point, 2 miles above, on the same side of the river, is a convenient steamboat landing. Verplank's Point, on the east side of the river, 40 miles north of the city of New- York is an excellent land- ing place, and memorable from its connection, in the Revo- lutionary war, with Stony Point on the opposite side. On the latter point is now a light house, erected on the site of the old fortification, which completely commanded the channel of the river. These points, where the river Con- AJVD ITS VICINITY. 53 tracts to about half a mile in width, were the first im- portant positions north of the city of New- York at which the American forces attempted to defend the passage of the Hudson against the British, in the struggle for inde- pendence. During the winter months, when the river is closed with ice above, steamboats can often reach Ver- plank's Point from New- York, and save the traveller the fatigue of passing over a difficult part of the stage road between the cities of New- York and Albany. Caldwell's Landing, on the west side of the river, 44 miles from New- York and 101 miles from Albany, is the first place at which steam passage boats of the large class touch on their upward trip, to land and receive pas- sengers. This landing is situated at the south entrance of the '' Highlands," and is connected by a steam ferry with Peekskill on the opposite side of the river, a large and thriving village, from which two or three steamboats run directly to the city of New-York, carrying large quantities of produce, manufactured articles, and pas- sengers. It was incorporated in 1827, and now contains 2,000 inhabitants, 8 churches, 6 public houses, 30 stores, and about 250 dwellings. On Oak Hill, where is now situated the Peekskill Academy, a flourishing chartered institution, is a venerable oak tree on which was hung during the revolutionary war, two noted spies, Strang and Palmer. Peekskill was then the head-quarters of the American army under Gen. Put- nam, who here dated his laconic reply to Sir Henry Clin- ton, commander of the British forces in the city of New- York, who sent up a flag of truce, demanding the release of Edmund Palmer, a lieutenant of a tory regiment, who had been detected in the American camp. The following was the reply sent back by Putnam : 54 HUDSON RIVER '' Head-Quurtcrs, 7th Avg. 1777. *'Edrnuii'l Palmer, an officer in the enemy's service, was taken as a spy, lurking within the American lines ; he has been tried as a spy, condemned as a spy, and shall be executed as a spy, and the flag is ordered to depart immediately. '' ISRAEL PUTNAM. '* P. S. He has been accordingly executed." Stage Lines east from Peekskill. A stage runs from Peekskill to Ridgefield, Conn, via Somers and North Salem, every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning : leaving Peekskill at 8 o'clock A. M. The same stage leaves Ridgefield every Monday, Wed- nesday, and Friday morning. A stage runs from Peekskill to Carmel village, via Red Mills and Mahopack, every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday j leaving Peekskill at 2 P. M., and Carmel the same days at 8 A. M. During summer, a stage leaves Peekskill every day for Mahopack Lake, and in the hottest of the season, when the lake is most visited, twice a day j leaving Peekskill at 12 M. and at 7 P. M. Mahopack Lake, is a beautiful sheet of water in the town of Carmel, Putnam county ; and is one of the chief sources of the Croton river. It is about one mile in diameter and embosoms two or three small islands. The waters abound with various kinds of fish of a fine flavor. It is a place of considerable resort, with good accommo- dations for visiters. At Fort Independence, opposite Caldwell's Landing, on the northeast, near the mouth of the Peekskill, a pub* lie house has recently been erected, which is intended for a summer retreat. The situation is delightful, facing down the river with an unobstructed view for many miles, ITS AND VICIKITY. 55 while immediately in the rear rise the "Highlands" in majestic grandeur. It is ccntemplated to make this a regular steamboat landing, and also to construct a bridge across the mouth of the creek or bay, which separates it from the village of Peekskiil. On leaving Caldwell's landing, the river takes a sudden turn to the west for about a mile ; this reach having the local designation of the " Horse Race," and then re- sumes its northern course, passing between the bold, wooded, and overshadowing hills known as the "High- lands," or " Matteawan Mountains." This latter name, meaning "'the country of good fur," was given by the the Aborigines, and is a fine, distinctive and appropriate name for the whole group. The " Highlands," the grandest, and next to the Palisades, the most remarkable feature of the scenery of the Hudson, are about 16 miles in width, and extend in a southwest and northeast direction for seme 20 or 30 miles, covering a part of the counties of Rockland and Orange, on the w^est side of the river, and Putnam and Dutchess on the east. Several of their summits reach aa elevation of 1,000 to 1,685 feet. This maybe considered classic ground, as many of the points or eminences in view from the river are celebrated in history for being the scene of stirring events during the struggle for American Independence, 1776 to 1783. The sites of old Fort Clinton ojid Montgomery , of revo- lutionary memory, are on the west side of the river, op- posite the lower Anthomfs Nose, 6 miles below West Point. These forts, deemed almost impregnable, were erected at this point for the defence of the river, which was also obstructed by chevaux-de-frise, boom and chains. On the 6th of Oct. 1777, they were attacked by a supe- rior British force under Sir Henry Clinton, and captured 66 PIUDSON RIVER after a sharp resistance ; the garrison of 600 men being overpowered by a disciplined army 3,000 strong. The works were resolutely defended until dark, when the ene- my effected an entrance at several places, there not be- ing a sufficient number of soldiers in the fort to man the lines. West Point, is romantically situated on the westbanlc of the Hudson river, 52 miles from New-York and 93 miles from Albany. It is the seat of the United States military academy, established by an act of Congress, in March, 1802 ; and the land ceded to the United States government by the state of New- York, 1826. Here are now erected two stone barracks, one of three and the other four stories in height, occupied by 250 cadets, which is the number authorized by law ; an academic hall, a large three story stone building, 275 feet in length, by 75 feet in width, used for military exercises in winter, an3' as a depository of the chemical apparatus, m.odels of for- tification, artillery, architecture and machines and as re- citation and drawing rooms : a new and beautiful two story stone building, to be used for the library and philo- sophical apparatus, constructed in the Elizabethan style of architecture, and is 150 feet in length by 60 feet in width ; the north front has three towers suited for the as- tronomical apparatus; the centre tower is surmounted by a dome of 28 feet 10 inches in diameter, the whole of which revolves on its vertical axis, adapting it to the use of a large equatorial telescope ; a chapel, a hospital, a mess hall, two cavalry stables, several workshops and store-rooms, and seventeen separate dAvellings occupied by the officers of the institution. In addition to the above, here ara located a magazine, a laboratory, soldiers' bar- racks, a store, and about 25 dwelling houses, occupied by families connected with the military school ; in all con- AND ITS VICINITY. 67 taining a population of about 900 souls. Here also is a convenient steamboat landing, and a well kept hotel^ cal- culated to accommodate about 100 visiters. No place in the Union probably, exceeds West Point in beauty of location and tlie stirring incidents connected with its early history, being '' hallowed by the footsteps of Washington anJ Kosciusko," during the revolutionary straggle — the interest in which, is continued to the pre- sent time by its being the residence and school of the fu- ture defenders of the Union. In 1777, immediately after the capture of Forts Clinton and Montgomery, by the British army. West Point was first occupied by the Ameri- can army, and fortified at the instance of Gov. George Clinton, of Revolutionarj'^ memory. At the present time are to be seen the remains of Forts Putnam and Arnold, (after the treason of the latter, called Fort Clinton,) which is situated on the extreme eastern point of this military position, 160 feet above tide water, Vv^hiie Fort Putnam is situated on Mount Independence, 1,000 yards southvrest, elevated about 500 feet above the river ; there are also numerous other redoubts and batteries, crowning the various eminences in the vicinity, built un- der the direction of the celebrated Kosciusko as engineer. In August, 17S0, Gen. Arnold was assigned to the com- mand of this important military station, extending from Fishkill to Yerplank's Point. On the 25th of September, he precipitately made his escape from his head-quarters, the Rohinson House, situated tv.'o miles below West Point, on the opposite side of the river, his treason having been discovered by the fortunate capture of Major Andre. From this period, to the close of the Revolutionary war in 1783, West Point was garrisoned by a strong division of the American army j after which, the garrison was reduced, and this location made a depot for the revolu- E 58 HUDSON RIVER tionary armament and other military stores. In 1794, at the recommendation of Gen. Washington, a military school was commenced in a building which was burnt down two years thereafter, and the school suspended un- til 1802. There are now connected with the West Point Academy, thirty- four officers and professors, a company of artillery and a detachment of dragoons, besides the cadets, who generally remain here for a period of four years, in which time they are qualified to become subaltern officers of the several corps of the army. Visiters on landing at West Point, are required to en- ter their names on a slate, presented by a soldier on duty for that purpose ; it is immediately afterwards taken to the commander's quarters, who is thereby informed of all arrivals. The departures are also regulated in the same manner. No stranger should leave this place without visiting the public buildings ; Kosciusko's Monument, and a wild and romantic retreat near the water's edge, called '' Kosciusko's Garden," the ruins of old Fort Putnam, which commands a view of West Point, the Hudson river, and the surrounding mountain scenery. The Ce- metery, about half a mile north of the hotel, is also well worthy of a visit. On the south, tovs^ards Buttermilk Falls, about a mile distant, there is a pleasant road run- ning near the river, and most of the way through a beau- tiful grove of trees. In this vicinity, and most agreeably located, is an academy for young men, under the superin- tendence of Lieut. Kinsley, formerly an instructor in the West Point Military Academy. If the visiter tarries through the day at this attractive place, any time during the summer months, when the ho* tel is usually thronged with fashionable people from AND ITS VICINITY. fi9 every section of the Union, he will have an opportunity to view West Point in all its loveliness. Cold Spring a mile or more above West Point, on the opposite side of the river, is a thriving manufactur- ing village. Here are situated the extensive iron works commonly known as the " West Point Foundry," and supposed to be on as broad n scale as any in the Union, and a machine shop, giving constant employment to about 300 workmen. The largest kind of machinery for steam- boat and other purposes, and warlike implements, are here constructed. The ore on which the works depend, is found in the immediate vicinity ; and there is also a quarry of granite of a very superior quality, eas)' of ac- cess and inexhaustible. Beacon Hill and Bkeakneck, both on the east side of the river, are situated immediately above Cold Spring. The former, sometimes called the " Grand Sachem," is the highest peak of the Highlands, being elevated 1,685 feet above the river. The latter presents the rocky pro- jection called the " Upper Anthomfs Nose." Crow's Nest and Butter Hill, are situated on the west side of the river. They rise abruptly from the wa- ter's edge, the latter, which is the more northerly peak, lifts its summit 1,520 feet above the Hudson j and the other is nearly as high, Pollopel's Island, is a mass of rock lying in the Hudson river, near its east shore, at the northern en- trance into the Highlands, 6 miles above West Point. Here the river begins to widen and expand to the width of more than a mile for some 5 or 6 miles, for which dis- tance it is sometimes called Newburgh Bay. Cornwall, Canterbury and New- Windsor, are small villages situated on the west side of the river, im- mediately above the Highlands. The last named village 60 HUDSON RIVER being distinguished as the birth place of De Witt Clinton. Newburgh, 61 miles north of New-York and 84 south of Albany, is pleasantly situate J on rising ground, on the west bank of the river. It was incorporated in 1800, and now contains about 6,000 inhabitants, 1,000 dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, this being a half-shire of Orange county ; a theological seminary under the direc- tion of the Associate E-efonned Presbyterian denomina- tion ; an incorporated academy ; a high school, two fe- male seminaries and a number of select schools, all in a flourishing condition j two large public libaries ; eleven churches of different denominations ; three banking houses, fourteen hotels and taverns ; 150 stores of different kinds ; nine store-houses ; five freighting establishments ; four steamboats and two freight barges, running to and from the citj^ of New-York, besides a number of sloops trad- ing to different places on the Hudson river, and schooners and other craft running to southern and eastern ports, al- together transporting an immense amount of lumber, coal, plaster, and agricultural and manufactured products ; two good steamboats also, are attached to the ferry between this place and Fishkill on the opposite side of the river, which is here about one mile in width. The location of Newburgh, in addition to its romantic beauty and healthi- ness, is peculiarly favorable as a place of business, being surrounded by a rich grazing and agricultural region, celebrated for butter and live stock. The Delaware and Hudson Railroad, the route of which is located and partly graded, com.mences at the village of Newburgh, and runs through the county of Orange into the state of New- Jersey. It is intended to tap the coal beds of Penn- sylvania, intersecting the New-York and Erie Railroad at or near Goshen. AND ITS VICIIVITY. 61 Newburgh was for a period the head- quarters of Gen. Washington, and at the close of the Revolutionary war, the army was here disbanded, June 23, 1783. The cfele- ebx-ated Neiohurgh Letters, addressed to the officers and men of the army, were here dated, supposed to have been written by the late Gen. John Armstrong. It is proposed to erect a suitable column to the memory of Washington, in front of the old stone house, in the south part of this village, where his family resided ; it is to be from 80 to 100 feet high, constructed of white marble, or granite, at an estimated cost of $50,000. It will be in plain sight from the water, commanding one of the finest prospects on the Hudson. Stages leave Newburgh for Bingharaton, 122 miles dis- tant, where they connect with lines running north and south, and with a line continuing west, through the southern tier of counties, to Barcelona, on Lake Erie. Stagk Eotjte from Newburgh to Barcelona. MUes.\ Miles. Montgomery, 13 Factoryville, 8 162 Bloomingburgh,. . . . 12 251 Athens, Pa 3 165 Wurtsboro,.r 5 SOIElmira, 20 185 MoNTicELLO, 10 40 Corning, 16 201 Bethel, 10 50 Delaware River, ... 10 60 Mount Pleasant, Pa. 20 80 New-Milford, 22 102 Great Bend, 4 106 BlNGHAMTON, 16 122 Union, 6 128 Nanlicoke, 9 137 OwEGo, 7 144 Smithboro, 10 154 Painted Post, 3 204 Bath, 18 222 Howard, 12 234 Hornellsville, 10 244 Angelica, 20 264 Franklinville, 25 289 Ellicottville,. ... 10 299 Seelysburgh, 15 314 Mayville, 35 349 Barcelona, 8 357 FisHKiLL Landing, on the east side of the river, di. rectly opposite Newburgh, with which it is connected by a steam ferry, is a thriving village containing about 900 inhabitants, and surrounded by delightful country resi- dences. <52 HUDSOW RIVER. Matteawan, an extensive and celebrated mannfac- turing village, is situated on the Fishkill, a mile and a half east of Fishkill Landing. Glenham, 3 miles fi'om the landing, is also a cele- brated manufacturing village, celebrated for its superior woollen cloths. The village of Fishkill, is pleasantly situated on a plain, 5 miles east of Fishkill Landing, and 65 miles north of the city of Nev^-York, on the great post road to Albany. This road, from Peekskill to Fishkill, a dis- tance of 19 miles, traverses the Highlands, and is re- markable for its formidable hills and the vi^ild scenery of this mountain route. As you approach Fishkill from the south, the character of the scenery suddenly changes to that of a fertile and cultivated farming district. During the Revolutionary war, this village was for a period the head-quarters of the American army ; the church is still standing here, in which Enoch Crosby, the spy of Revolutionary memory, was confined for a time : his escape being admirably described in Cooper's ro- mance of the " Spy," under the assumed name of Har- 9ey Birch. New-Hamburgh, 6 miles north of Newburgh, is a steamboat landing on the east side of the river, where Wappinger's creek, an important mill stream, empties into the Hudson, Hampton" is another landing nearly opposite, being connected with New-Hamburgh by a ferry. One or two miles north is the village of Marlborough. Barnegat, a few miles above on the east side of the river, is celebrated for the manufacture of large quanti- ties of lime. Milton, 9 miles above Newburgh, and 4 miles below Poughkeepsie, is a convenient steamboat landing ; the village stands about half a mile back from the riven AND ITS VICINITY. 63 PotTGttKEEPSiE, is handsomdy situated on the east side of the Hudson, about equi-distant between the cities of New-York and Albany, being 74 miles from the lormer, and 71 from the latter, by water. It was incorporated in ISOl, and now contains about 7,500 inhabitants, mostly engaged in mercantile and manufacturing pursuits ; 1,000 dwelling houses, many of them tasty edifices ; a court- house, and jail and county poor-house ; a splendid colle- giate building ; the Dutchess Academy ; tw^o female seminaries, besides several select schools ; a lyceum and reading room ; tw^o public markets : one Presbyterian, one Congregational, two Episcopal, one Baptist, two Methodist, one Dutch Reformed, one Universalist, one Roman Catholic, and one African Church, and two Friends' meeting houses; three banking houses, a sav- ing's institution, and an incorporated company called the " Dutchess Whaling Company," who own one or two ships engaged in the whale trade. Poughkecpsie contains several well kept hotels and taverns ; 25 dry good stores, 50 groceries, 3 bookstores, besides a large number of other different kinds of stores and shops ; also two brewe- ries, one of which is very extensive, perhaps the largest in the state, being capable of making 30,000 barrels of beer annually, and an extensive pin manufacture. Here are owned three steamboats, three freight barges, and eight sloops, engaged in transporting produce and mer- chandise to and from the New-York market, and other places on the river. No place on the Hudson exceeds this village for beauty of location ; it is surrounded by one of the richest agricultural districts in the Union, and may justly be ranked as the queen of villages in the Em- pire State. The Poughkeepsie Collegiate School, situated on Col- lege Hill, about half a mile northeast of the compact 64 HUDSON RIVER part of the village, is unrivalled in its location, command- ing an extensive prospect of the river and surrounding country, which cannot fail to excite the admiration of every lover of picturesque scenery; in addition to the collegiate building, which is a splendid edifice, here has recently heen erected an extensive gymnasium. This is a well established and flourishing institution^ conducted en philosophical principles. Poughkeepsie, is a corruption of the Indian word Apokecpsing , signifying safe harbor. It was early set- tled, and in 1788, the state convention met here to ratify the federal Constitution of the United States ; previous to that date the state legislature frequently convened in this village, which has long been considered a favorite place of residence. The Landing opposite Poughkeepsie, is in the town of New-Paltz, by which name it is called. A ferry here crosses the Hudson ; a short distance from the river is a scattered settlement. Three or four miles above Pough- keepsie, is a turn in the river called Crur,i-Elbow. Hyde Park, 80 miles from New-York and 65 from Albany, is pleasantly situated on the east side of the Hudson. The principal settlement is about half a mile from the landing. It contains 3 churches, 2 public houses, several stores and shops, and 50 or 60 dwelling houses. No section of the country between New-York and Alba- ny, excels this part of Dutchess county for the beauty of its country residences ; among which, the elegant man- sion and grounds of the late Dr. David Hosack, were conspicuous. This fine seat is now occupied by Mr. Langdon. It appears to great advantage from the river, standing on elevated ground, a short distance north of the steamboat landing. At Staatsburgh, 5 miles north of the village of Hyde Park, is situated the country resi^ AND ITS VICIIVITY. 65 (lence of the late Gov. Morgan Lewis. Esopus lleadows, as they are called, 6 or 7 miles above Hyde Park, are ex- tensive marshes, covered vv'itli water during high tide; Ihey lie opposite the town of Esopus on the west side of the river. Pelham is a small landing on the same side, a little south of the mea Jows. RoNBOUT, 89 miles nortli of the city of New- York, is situated at the mouth of a large stream of the same name, where there is a lighthouse built by the United States government. This is a place of considerable trade, con- taining an active population of about 1,500 inhabitants ; many of whom are engaged in navigation, and others are furnished employment by the Delaware and Hudson Ca- nal, which terminates at Eddyville, 2 miles above Ron- dout. The canal is 108 miles in length, extending in connection with a railroad of 16 miles, to the coal mines of Pennsylvania. From the mouth of Rondout creek a number of steamboats, freight barges, and sloops are regularly employed in carrying an immense quantity of Lacka waxen coal, lumber, lime, and produce of diifer- ent kinds. Stages run from this place to the village of Kingston, and to the Landing opposite Rhinebeck, where the line boats land and receive passengers several times daily. Kingston Landing, is situated on the w^est side of the Hudson river, 90 miles north of the city of New- York ; this landing was formerly called Columbus Point. A steam ferry boat here plies across the river. The village of Kingston is handsomely situated on a plain, through which flov/s the Esopus creek, 3 miles west of the landing on the river. It was incorporated in 1805, and now contains about 2,300 inhabitants, 300 dwel- ling houses, 1 Reformed Dutch, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist and 1 Methodist church ; a court house and jail. 2 bankin» iSiQ HUDSON RIVER houses, an incorporated academy, in a flourishing condi- tion, and a female seminary ; also several well kept pub« lie houses. Stages leave this place three times a week for Delhi, Delaware county ; a tri- weekly line also leaves for EUenville, and accommodation stages are in constant attendance, and run to the several steamboats that land and receive passengers at Rondout and Kingston Land- ing. Kingston, anciently called Esopus, was early set- tled by the Dutch, many of whose descendants now re- side in this vicinity. In April, 1777, the first convention of the Representa- tives of the state of New- York met in the village of Kingston, and formed the old Constitution of the state, and on the 16th day of October following, it was taken and burnt by the British army, under the command of Gen. Vaughan, while marching to the relief of Gen. Bur- goyne, who was obliged to surrender to the American army on the following day at Schuylerville. Imme- mediately after destroying the village, the British troops precipitately retreated to their vessels lying in the Hud- son river, and returned to the city of New-York. Some of the ruins of the stone buildings were standing as late as 1836, when the last of the walls were taken down, and the Kingston banking house erected on the same spot. Rhinebeck Landing, 90 miles from New-York and 55 from Albany, is situated on the east side of the river. In this vicinity are located a number of beautiful coun- try residences overlooking the Hudson. The village of Rhinebeck is handsomely situated on a plain, 2 miles east of the landing. It is incorporated, and flow contains about 1,000 inhabitants. This vicinity was early settled by Dutch families, many of whose de- Bcendants still retain the habits and language of their AND ITS VICINITY. 67 forefathers, and are a frugal and prosperous class of citizens. Barrytown, or Redhook Lower Landing, also on the east side of the Hudson, is 97 miles from New- York, and is surrounded by several delightful country residences, The Catskill Mountains, in the west, at a distance of some 12 or 15 rniles, may now be seen from the river to great advantage ; and the Catskill Mountain House, elevated nearly 3,000 feet above the Hudson, is distinctly visible in clear weather. It stands near the precipitous front of a rockj plateau, of a few acres in extent, called Pine Orchard, from the scattered pines which formerly grew out from the fissures of the rock. It commands a vast and noble prospect, and is a most refreshing retreat from the heats of summer. TivoLi, or Upper Redhook Landing, 100 miles from New-York and 45 miles from Albany, is a regular steam- boat landing for both day and night boats. In this vicinity are also a great number of beautiful country re- sidences. The villages of Upper and Lower Redhook, are situated 3 or 4 miles from the river, on the stage road. In the Hudson, near Tivoli, are annually taken during the months of May and June, large quantities of shad and herring. A steam ferry-boat here plies across the river, landing on the west side near the iron works at Sau- gerties. Saugerties, which is a large manufacturing village by the chartered name of Ulster, situated on the Esopus creek, near its entrance into the Hudson, where is a water- fall affording an immense hydraulic power, much of which is advantageously used in driving different kinds of machinery. The village contains about 2,000 inhabi- tants, 300 dwelling houses, 5 churches, and 3 or 4 public houses. A steamboat and several sloops run from the 68 HUDSON RIVER mouth of the creek, although the usual steamboat land- ing for the passage boats is at Bristol, or Malden, 2 miles above Redhook, and 1^ miles from Saugerties. A stage runs to and from the landing to the village, on the arrival and departure of the steam passage boats. East and West Camp, a few miles above Bristol, are old Dutch settlements on both sides of the river. The village of Catskill, 111 miles from New- York and 34 miles from Albany, is situated on both sides of Catskill creek, near its junction with the Hudson; the prin- cipal street being about half a mile back from the steam- boat landing. It was incorporated in 1806, and now con- tains about 2,800 inhabitants, 400 dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, 2 banking houses, 5 churches, and several public houses. Here is owned a steamboat and 4 barges, besides several sloops employed in transport- ing produce and merchandise to and from the city of New- York and different places on the river. A ferry boat plies across the river from the landing at this place, to Oak Hill, Columbia county. The Catskill and Cana- joharie Railroad commences at this village, and is finish- ed a distance of 26 miles. A daily line of stages leave Catskill for Delhi, Delaware county, and two tri- weekly lines for Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga lake, and Spra- ker's Basin in Montgomery county; the latter uniting with the Erie Canal and western railroads. A stage runs from Catskill to Hudson, via Athens, twice daily, and a stage runs semi- weekly to Prattsville, via Hunter and Lexington. Stages also run daily during the warm weather from the steamboat landing to the Catskill Mountain House, at the Phie Orchard, distant about 12 miles from Catskill. The following is AND ITS VICINITY. 69 a glowing description of this well known^ and charming eummer retreat : " Pine Orchard, forming a part of the Catskill moun- tain range, is situated about 12 miles from Catskill, Greene county. It is elevated 3,000 feet above the tide waters of the Hudson, which noble stream^ and the sur- rounding country, it overlooks for a great distance, af- fording a varied and extensive vievf of the greatest in- terest. On the summit is erected a large and commodious public house, called the Mountain House, for the accomo- dation of visiters, who resort here in great numbers during the summer months. In this vicinity are other mountain peaks of still greater elevation, and waterfalls of the most wild and romantic character, altogether form- ing unrivalled attractions, which are well worthy of a visit. From this lofty eminence all inequalities of sur- face are overlooked. A seemingly endless succession of woods and waters, farms and villages, towns and cities, are spread out as upon a boundless map. Far in the east rise the Taghkanic mountains, and the highlands of Con- necticut and Massachusetts. To the left, and at a still greater distance, the Green mountains of Vermont stretch away to the north, and their blue summits and the blue sky mingle together. The beautiful Hudson, studded with islands, appears narrowed in the distance, with steamboats almost constantly in sight,- while vessels of every description spreading their white canvass to the breeze, are moving rapidly over its surface, or idly loit- ering in the calm. These may be traced to the distance of nearly seventy miles vfith the naked eye ; and again at times all below is enveloped in dark clouds and rolling mist, which, driven about by the wind, is constantly as- suming new, wild and fantastic forms. From Pine Orch- ard, a ride or walk of a mile or two brings you to the 70 HUDSON RIVER KaaterskiU falls. Here the outlet of two small lakes leaps down a perpendicular fall of 130 feet, then glides away through a channel worn in the rock, to a second fall of 80 feet. Below this it is lest in the dark ravine through which it finds its way to the valley of the Catskill." The City of Hudson, situate on the east side of the river, 116 miles from New- York, and 29 miles from Al- bany, is a place of much trade and importance. It lies near the head of ship navigation, and was formerly cele- brated for being largely engaged in the West India trade, and more recently in the whale fishery. Hudson v^as first settled in 1783, by Thomas Jenkins and others, most of whom were Quakers, from Massachusetts and Rhode Island. The ciiy was chartered in 1785, and is divided into 2 wards ; in 1840, it contained 5,670 inhabitants, about 800 dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, with a beautiful white marble front, surmounted by a domej 8 churches of different denominations, including 2 Friends' meeting houses ; 2 banks, 2 public markets, and 5 hotels. The Hudson Academy at this place, is an old chartered institution, and the Hudson Female Seminary is a new and flourishing boarding school for young ladies ; besides which there are several schools, both male and female. The Franklin Library Association is a young and popular institution, to which is attatched a large library and phi- losophical apparatus. The Hudson Lunatic Asylum is situated on State- street, on the north side of the city, facing the court house on the south. This useful and flourishing institution, under the control of the proprietors, Drs. S. and G. H. White, contains at present about 40 patients. Since the opening of this institution, up to Jan. 1841, a pe- riod of eleven years, 503 patients have been admitted, most of whom have been permanently cured, or greatly bene- AND ITS VICINITY. 71 \ fited. The city is supplied by pure and wholesome water by a chartered aqueduct company, who bring the water in iron pipes from a spring about 2 miles distant. The Hudson and B&rkshire Rail-road commences at this place, and extends to West Stockbridge, Mass. a distance of 34 miles; running within 7 miles of Lebanon Springs, which are much resorted to during the summer months. The New-York and Albany steamboats land and receive passengers several times daily, during the season of navi- gation, in addition to the passage and freight boats which run to and from New-York direct, thus affording a speedy communication between the cities of New-York and Bos- ton, a total distance by this route of about 300 miles, extending through an interesting country. A steam ferry boat crosses the river from Hudson to Athens, a chartered village on the west shore contain- ing about 1,300 inhabitants. Four Mile Point, 120 miles above New-York, is considered the head of ship navigation on the Hud- son. Kinderhook ci'eek here enters the river on the east side, and near its mouth is situated the manufacturing village of Columbiaville. CoxsACKiE Landing, 8 miles above Hudson, is situa- ted on the west side of the Hudson 22 miles below the city of Albany. Here are three seperate land- ings within the distance of a mile, altogether contain- ing about 1,200 inhabitants, 150 dwelling houses, 1 Dutch Reformed, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist church ; an academy, 4 public houses, 16 stores of different kinds and 15 warehouses; 1 steam plaster mill and 1 furnace j I^iip yard and 2 dry docks for building and repairing vessels; 19 extensive brick yai'ds where are manufactured yearly about 30 millions of bricks. This is also a conve- 72 HUDSON RIVER nient steamboat landing, at which steamboats touch seve- ral times daily, during the season of navigation. The village of Coxsackie, 1 mile west of the landing, contains about 500 inhabitants, and is surrounded by fer- tile lands, extending to the base of theHelderberg moun- tains. Stuyvesant, 4 miles further on the east side of the river, is a flourishing place of business, from which large quantities of produce are annually sent to the New- York market, the country in the interior being justly celebrated for its fertility. A short distance north is the steamboat landing for the above place, and for the village of Kinderhook situated about 5 miles east of the river, and noted for the beauty of its location. It is the birthplace of ex-President Van Buren, and his present residence is a pleasant seat about two miles south of the village. New Baltimore, 4 miles above, on the west side of the Hudson, and 14 miles from Albany, is a village of about 400 inhabitants. Here is a convenient steamboat land- ing, where the passage boats usually land and receive passengers. CoEYMANs, on the west side of the river, 12 miles be- low Albany, is the last landing the boats make on their upward trips. The village contains about' 700 inhabi- tants, and here are owned several sloops trading with the New- York market. Barren Island, lying imme- diately below the village of Coeymans, is on the south bounds of the old colony of Rensselaerwyck, and was for- tified and garrisoned by one of the early Patroons, in IQM. All foreign traders were here obliged to come to, and learn the terms on which the port of the colony might be entered. It now presents a rocky and sterile appearance being well adapted for the purposes for which it was ori- AND ITS VICINITY. 73 ginally oecTipied, as it completely commands the channel of the river. Castleton, 4 miles above Coeymans and 8 miles from Albany, is on the east side of the river. Here is forming a bar in the channel of the river, which is very injurious to navigation. The Overslaugh, 3 miles below^ the city of Albany, has heretofore formed the principal obstruction to the free navigation of the Hudson on its tide waters. Here were several bars or flats, with narrow channels, afford- ing at low tides but a small depth of water — this obstruc- tion, however, has of late been mostly removed by an expenditure by the United States Government, the depth of the water being materially increased, the channel made straight, and the navigation much improved, Gbeenbitsh, opposite the south part of the city of Albany, with which it is connected by a steam ferry boat, contains about 900 inhabitants. Immediately above may be seen the new depot and buildings attached to the Bos- ton Railroad. From th« depot at Greenbush to the city of Troy, a distance of 6 miles, a branch railroad is now in progress of construction, ALBANY, the capital of the State, and one of the oldest cities in the Union, is eligibly situated on the west side oftheHuQson river, 145 miles north of the city of New- York; 325 mites by railroad, east of Buffalo ; 200 west -of Boston, and 250 south of Montreal. It was originally called " Beaver Wyck" (i, e. Beaver Town,) and after- ward '' Williamstadt." It received its present name in 1664, in honor of James, duke of York and Albany, af- terwards James II., in whose reign the original city char- ter was granted by Governor Dongan, July 22, 1686, and the government vested in ''The Mayor, Aldermen and Commonalty of the city of Albany," consisting of the F ^ 74 HUDSON RIVER Mayor, Recorder, ten Aldermen and ten Assistants. The charter has been materially altered by recent enact- ments of the Legislature ; the assistant aldermen are merged in ten aldermen, but the corporate name is still preserved. It is now divided into 10 vrards. In 1840, its population was 33,721. It is indebted for its prosperity to the enterprise of its inhabitants, and the impulse given to its trade by the Erie and Champlain canals, which unite about 9 miles to the north, and enter the Hudson river at the north end of the city. A basin has been formed in front of the city, pro- tected from the river by a pier one mile and a quarter in length, furnishing a safe harbor, for vessels and se- curing them from injury by the ice, which in the spring freshets, comes down the river in immense quantities, sometimes causing great damage. The city is command- ing in its situation, and appears to great advantage from the river. There are three ravines running from east to west, known as the Foxes Kill, the Rutten Kill, and the Beaver Kill, on each side of which the land is high, be- ing at an elevation of from 140 to 160 feet above, and gradually ascending from the river. The view from either of the heights is picturesque in the highest de- gree. To the north may be seen the city of Troy and the adjacent villages, and in the distance tite hills of Ver- mont. To the east the beautiful extent of country lying beyond the Hudson river, and to the south the Helder- bergs, and Catskill mountains. The public buildings are of the most beautiful and tasteful character. The Capi- tol, occupied by the legislature and the state courts ; the State Hall, just completed, for the accommodation of the public offices; the City Hall, occupied for city and county purposes, and by the United States Courts ; and the Al- bany Academy, having 300 pupils, face the public AND ITS VICINITY. 15 square at the head of State-street. This square is form- ed by the Capitol and Academy Parks, which are enclosed with substantial iron fences, erected on stone bases, and are laid out with walks lined with ornamental trees of the choicest species. A more delightful spot in the sum- mer, is not to be found in any inland city in the Union. A few rods south of the square, on Eagle-street, is the County Jail and the Medical College. This College was incorporated in 1839, and occupies a building granted to it by the corporation of the city, admirably adapted for its purposes. The College already possesses one of the most valuable museums in the country, which has recent- ly been greatly enlarged and enriched, by specimens im- ported direct from Germany and France. In addition to the Academy spoken of, there is a Female Academy, which has annually from 300 to 350 pupils. This insti- tution ranks high, and occupies a handsome and con- venient edifice in North Pearl-street. Connected with it is the Albany Library, numbering 9,000 volumes. The Albany Exchange, situated at the foot of State- street, is a large and commodious building, constructed of granite. It is occupied for stores, offices of professional men, and the post-office. The Young Men's Association, established for "Mutual Improvement," also occupies rooms in this buildingj it was the pioneer institution of its kind in this slate, and embraces all ranks and profes- sions, now numbering 1,500 members. It has an exten- sive reading room, supplied with the leading newspapers of this country and Englandj also a room, furnished with the most popular and standard periodicals and reviews, native and foreign; an excellent library of about 3,200 volumes, and a lecture room capable of seating 300 per- sons, in which two lectures a week are delivered, from the first of December to the first of March. Strangers 76 HUDSOIf RIVER have free access to all except the lecture room and library. There are 4 Presbyterian churches, 1 Associate do., 3 Dutch Reformed^ 1 Unitarian, 4 Methodist Episcopal, 1 African do., 3 Baptist, 1 colored do., 2 Lutheran, 3 Episcopalian, 1 Universalist, 3 Roman Catholic, 1 Inde- pendent church, 1 Mission House, 2 Jewish Synagogues, 1 Bethel and 1 Friends' Meeting House. The old State Hall, recently occupied for state offi- ces, is converted into a museum for the reception of the geological cabinet formed under the direction of the State geological surveyors. The New- York State Agri- cultural Society, also here hold their meetings in a room reserved for that purpose. The other public institutions whose meetings are held at Albany, are the New- York State Temperance Society, and the State Medical Society. There are also, in the city, in addition to those men- tioned, various benevolent, religious and scientific institu- tions ; among them the Albany Institute, with a valuable library and extensive museum, occupying a room in the Albany Academy. The principal hotels in Albany, are, the American Ho- tel, 100 State-street J City Hotel, 23 Broadway; Clin- ton Hotel, 19 South Pearl-street; Columbian Hotel, 161 Market-street; Congress Hall, Park Place, near the Capitol; Delavan Temperance House, 77 Broadway; Eagle Tavern, 105 Market- street; Eastern Raih'oad Ho- tel, 155 and 157 Market-street; Fort Orange Hotel, 153 Market- street; Franklin House, 136 and 13S State-street; Mansion House, 24 Broadway; Montgomery Hall, 56 Market-street; Plough Hotel, 126 State-street; Railroad Hotel, Stanwix Hall, corner of Broadway and Maiden Lane; Railroad House, 266 Market-street; United States House, 117 Market- street; United States Hotel, 91 Wash- ington-street; Washington Hall, 29 South Pearl-street. AND ITS VICINITY. . 77 The trade, commerce and manufactures of Albany are very considerable j in the year 1842, 27 steamboats and 51 tow boats plied regularly between Albany and New- York and the intermediate places on the Hudson river. The Mohawk and Hudson Railroad, among the first roads built in the country, and connected with the Utica and Schenectady and Saratoga and Schenectady Rail- roads, terminates at Albany. An arrangement is about to be made by which the inclined planes, which form so great an objection to this road^ are to be dispensed with. The Albany and West Stockbridge Railroad connects the Western Railroad at the state line between Massachu- setts and New- York, forming a continuous line of rail- roads from Albany to Boston. In addition to the rail- road and steamboat lines, there are eighteen lines of stages running from Albany to different places. It is es- timated that 1,100 passengers arrive and depart daily. The termination of the canals and railroads at Albany, renders it the centre of trade and trans-shipment, and has opened to the enterprise of her merchants and artisans an extent of country unsurpassed in its wealth and re- sources. Distances from Albany to Boston, by Railroad : To West Stockbridge 38 Miles. State Line to Pittsfield, Western R.R.) 11 49 " Springfield, do. > 53 102 '' Worcester, do. ) 54 156 '' Boston and Worcester Railroad, 44 200 " Distances from Albany to the City of Wash- ington, by Steamboat and Railroad Route: New- York, by steamboat, 145 Miles. Philadelphia, 6?/ raiZ-road, 86 231 '' Baltimore, " 96 327 '' Washington, " 38 365 " 16 Miles 77 93 53 146 26 172 79 251 43 294 78 HUDSON RIVER Distances from Albany to Buffalo, by Railroad; Mohawk and Hudson Railroad, Utica and Schenectady " Syracuse and Ulica, '^ Auburn and Syracuse, " Auburn and Rochester, " Tonawanda, via Batavia, Attica and Buffalo, 31325 " Distances from Albany to Montreal, via Sara- toga Springs and Lake Champlain : To Troy, by stage, Ballston Spa, by rail-road, 24 Saratoga Springs, *' 7 Whitehall, by stage, 39 St. John's, Canada, steamboat, 150 226 La Prairie, by rail-road, 15 241 Montreal, by steamboat, 9 250 6 Miles 30 li 37 n 76 (( We copy the foliovs^ing extract relating to the early history of Albany: '' The younger race of fashionables and semi-fashiona- bles know Albany, or affect to knoAv it, merely as a big city-looking place, full of taverns and hotels, where they land from the steamboat, on their way to Saratoga, Ni- agara or Quebec. Another set of less locomotive good folks, especially in New- York and Philadelphia, have no notions about it, but those derived from the old tradition, ary jokes upon its aocient Schepens and Schoutens, its burly Burgomasters, ' its lofty spires glittering with tin and hospitable boards smoking with sturgeon.' " But in honest truth, there are few cities of the size any where, which can exhibit a greater or a more agree- able variety of society and manners. In Albany may be lound talent and learning, accomplishment and beauty. The towns of Europe of the same size and relative im portance, can in this respect bear no sort of comparison with it. Then, too, its situation, the prospect from its AND ITS VICINITY. 79 higher grounds and streets abound in scenes meet for romantic fiction. Albany is rich also in more sober, but equally interesting recollections of our national history. There, (to use the once familiar personification in which Indian oratory delighted to speak of the French and Eng- lish governments,) Corlaer and Ononthio were wont to meet and plant the tree of peace, or else extinguish their council fire and part in wrath. There, about the middle of the last century, (1751,) the governors of the several provinces met the chiefs of the Six Nations^ and the am- bassadors of the Catawbas and other southern tribes, and buried the hatchet between the whole Indian race on this, continent, and planted the tree of peace in Fort Orange.* There, three years after, was held that first General Congress, in which the earliest arrangements for national defence were made, and where, by one of those remarkable coincidences with which the hand of Provi- dence has legibly inscribed the evidence of its own work- ings in every part of our national history, upon the fourth of July, 1754^ Benjamin Franklin, and other patriots des- tined to the highest honors of their country, signed the first plan of American Union, and proclaimed to the colonies that they were one people, fit to govern and able to protect themselves. Why need I speak of the events of the Revolution? At Albany, in the most eventful periods of that struggle, Montgomery, and Schuyler, and Gates, and the elder Clinton, in turns planned or directed the operations of war, while the civil wisdom and moral courage of Jay, gave new confidence to public spirit, and fresh vigor to our counsels." *On the spot where now stands the house formerly occupied by the venerable Simeon Pe Witt, for many years Surveyor-General of the State, and at present known as the Fort Orange Hotel, situated in Market-street, near Lydius-street. 80 HUDSON RIVER ALBANY, NINETY YEARS SINCE. The foDowing description of Albany, is taken from Mrs. Grant's interesting '' Memoirs of an American Lady." ''The city of Albany was stretched along the banks of the Hudson 5 one very wide and long street lay paral- lel to the river, the intermediate space between it and the shore being occupied by gardens. A small, but steep hill rose above the centre of the town, on which stood a fort, intended (but very ill adapted,) for the defence of the place, and of the neghboring country. From the foot of this hill, another street was built, [now State-street,] sloping pretty rapidly down till it joined the one before mentioned that ran along the river. This street was still wider than the other ; it was only paved on each side, the middle being occupied by public edifices. These con- sisted of a market place, or guard-house, a town hall, and the English and Dutch churches. The English church stood at the upper end of the street; the Dutch church was situated at the bottom of the descent where the street terminated. The town in proportion to its population, occupied a great space of ground. This city^ in short, was a kind of semi-rural establishment; every house had its garden, a well, and a little green behind, — before every door a tree was planted, rendered interest- ing by being coeval with some beloved member of the family." The City of Troy, 151 miles north of New- York, is pleasantly situated on the east bank of the Hudson river, at the head of tide water and steamboat navigation, 6 miles above Albany. Its existence as a village, may be dated from 1790. It was incorporated as a city in 1816, when it contained nearly 5,000 inhabitants ; it has recently AND ITS VICINITY. 81 been made a port of entrj, and contained in 1840, 19^334 inhabitants, who are mostly engaged in commerce, naviga- tion and manufactures. Since the completion of the Erie and Champlain canals in 1825, v/hich, opposite this place, at the village of West Troy, unite the waters of the lakes with those of the Hudson, Troy has rapidly in- creased in wealth and population. Here are a fine court- house, built of marble, in the Grecian Doric order j a jail constructed of brick ; a county poor-house, to which a farm containing about 200 acres is attached ; the Rens- selaer Institute, founded by the late Hon. Stephen Van Rensselaer, where the sciences are practically taught ; the Troy Female Seminary, a flourishing chartered insti- tution ; the Troy Academy, also an excellent classical and chartered institution for the education of boys, besides several select schools for males and females. Troy con- tains two new, finely modelled and expensive market buildings ; seven Presbyterian churches, three Episcopal, two Baptist, two Methodist, one Catholic, one TJniver- saiist, one Friend's meeting house and an African church; six banks, with an aggregate capital of $1,568,000 ; two insurance companies ,* onelyceum of natural history, with a choice scientific library, and an extensive collection of minerals and collections in various branches of natural history ; a Young Men's Association for mutual improve- ment, with a large library and extensive reading room. The public houses in Troy are numerous, and several of them celebrated for being well regulated establish- ments : The principal hotels are the American Hotel, Fourth, corner of Elbow-street j Mansion House, 4 Washington- square • Mechanic's Hall, 140 River-street ; National Temperance House, River, corner of Ferry- street ; Northern Hotel, 394 River-street ; Troy House, River, corner of First-street ,• Washington Hall, 331 River-street ; York House, 252 River-street. 82 HUDSON RIVER Here are owned about 60 masted vessels, four large passage steamboats of the first class, two smaller steam passage boats and five steam tow boats with 22 barges, which ply between Troy and New- York, transporting annually an immense amount of produce and merchan- dise. Four lines of passage and freight boats run on the Champlain canal from Troy : a line of packet schooners run from this place to Boston, and other eastern ports ; a line of canal packets to Whitehall, and lines of daily stages run to Whitehall, and Bennington, Vt., and to Brattleboro, Vt., and Boston. The water power at Troy is immense, and a large portion of it still unoccupied. Within the limits of the city and about a mile east of the Hudson, a tunnel has been excavated by Mr. Benj. Marshall, ex- tending from the Poestenkill, a distance of about 800 feet, and gives a fall of 180 feet. Several large mills and fac- tories to be supplied with water from this fall, are now in the progress of erection. Near the northei-n boundary of the city a dam has been built across the Hudson, by the state, which here makes a fall of 11| feet and creates an incalculable amount of hydraulic power. This place is abundantly supplied with wholesome water, brought from the Piscawin creek, through large iron pipes with hydrants at the corners of the streets. The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad commences at this place, crossing the Hudson river by a substantial bridge 1,650 feet in length, to Green island ; thence it continues north across several branches of the Mohawk river to Waterford ; following the valley of the Hudson until it reaches Mechanicsville, where it diverges to the west and continues to the village of Ballston Spa, a dis- tance of 24 miles, and unites with the Saratoga and Sche- nectady Railroad. The Schenectady and Troy Railroad 21 miles in length, was completed in 1842 ; it communi* AND ITS vrciNil-Y. 83 cates with the western roads at Schenectady, and will be extended to Greenbush, on the east side of the Hudson river, opposite Albany ; there to connect with the Alba- ny and West Stockbridge railroad, which, when completed will make a direct railroad communication from Troy to Boston, and furnish a continuous line of railroads from Boston to Buffalo. There is also a macadamised road already finished from Troy to Bennington, Vt., a distance of about 26 miles. Troy is connected with the village of West Troy, in Albany Co., which has risen into impor- tance within a few years, by means of a commodious bridge and two ferries crossing the Hudson river. The city of Troj'" has long been celebrated for its beau- ty and healthiness. The streets are laid out at right an- gles, are generally wide, remarkable for their cleanliness, and planted with beautiful, and in the hot season, most grateful forest and shade trees. From Mounts Ida on the east and Olympus on the north, an extensive and charm- ing prospect is presented, embracing a view of the valley of the Hudson for miles, the city of Albany, the villages of West Troy, Lansingburgh, Waterford and Cohoes, and the Cohoes Falls ; a landscape presenting more beauty and a greater variety of scenery, can hardly be imagined. From the elevations just mentioned, the eye rests at once, as on a map spread out before it, on city and village teem- ing with life and activity — the broad Hudson rolling on in majesty to the ocean, and bearing on its bosom fleets of boats and vessels — a long extent of the Erie canal, it- self no common stream, floating to market the products of the west — railroads, over which are passing with light- ning speed, multitudes in pursuit of business or pleasure — on woodlands and cultivated fields harmoniously blend- ed — and on a western horizon of undulating highlands, which towards the south, blend with the famed CatskiU mountains, lifting their giant heads to the clouds. 84 HUDSON RIVER West Troy, situated on the west bank of the Hudson river, 6 miles above the city of Albany, is a place of growing importance. It was incorporated as a village in 1836, and now contains about 5,000 inhabitants, 800 dwelling houses, 8 churches, 8 public houses, a large number of stores, and mechanics' shops. The Erie Ca- nal, which passes through the centre of the village, com- municates with the Hudson, by two commodious side- cuts. It is a convenient depot for vast quantities of pro" duce, lumber, and merchandise ; being on the Junc- tion Canal, and at the head of sloop navigation. The southern mouth of the Mohawk here unites with the Hudson. The Watervliet Arsenal, situated in West Troy, near the river, was established by the United States govern- ment in 1813. This is the largest arsenal of construction in the Union, having great facilities for the manufacture and transportation of warlike implements, and is well worthy of a visit. The grounds attached to the arsenal, consist of about 100 acres, enclosed in front by an iron fence, and in the rear by a stone wall. Here are located 33 buildings, comprising storehouses for small arms, gun sheds for cannon carriageSj timber sheds, magazines, saw-mill, paint, carriage, machine, casting and black- smith shops ; offices, barracks, hospitals and officers' quarters. About 200 officers, soldiers and hired work- men are constantly employed at this post, which number could be greatly increased if found necessary. Here are now manufactured munitions of war, amounting to an estimated value of $100, 000 annually. The total value on hand, January, 1841, amounted to $1,662,320. Lansingbttrgh, 3 miles above Troy on the east side of the Hudson, is one of the oldest villages in the state, being incorporated as early as 1787 ; it now contains AKD ITS VlClSi*^. 85 about 3,000 inhabitants. During the Revolutionary war it was a place of considerable importance. It has since increased but slowly, owing to obstructions in the chan- nel of the Hudson, and the consequent growth of Troy. Waterford, situated 1 mile above Lansingburgh, on the opposite side of the river, and 155 miles north of the city of New- York, is at the very head of sloop naviga- tion on the Hudson, with which the northern mouth of the Mohawk here unites. Navigation is kept up to this place by means of a dam and sloop lock at the upper part of the city of Troy. Waterford was incorporated in 1805, and now contains a population of about 1,400 inhabitants. The village of Cohoes two miles west of Waterford, is situated on the southwest bank of the Mohawk river a short distance below the Cohoes Falls and near the junction of the Erie and Champlain canals. Here is af- forded by the Mohawk, an immense amount of hydrau- lic power. If found necessary the whole volume of wa- ter in the river can be used for propelling machinery to almost any extent, having a total fall of about 140 feet. Here are several extensive manufacturing establishments ; Q churches; 1 hotel ; 12 stores, and a population of 2,000 inhabitants, mostly employed in the above manufactories. Stages pass through this village several times daily, run- ning between Albany and Waterford, a distance of 10 miles. Cohoes Falls, situated in the immediate vicinity of Cohoes village, is an object of great attraction. It is much resorted to during the summer months, by visitors from all parts of the Union. The water of the Mohawk here has a perpendicular fall of 70 feet, besides a rapid de- scent above and below. The banks of the river present a grand and romantic appearance, varying in almost per- pendicular heighth of from 50 to 120 feet, for the distance of half a mile below the falls, where a substantial bridge, about 800 feet long, spans the stream. 5e STEAMBOATS. HUDSON RIVER STEAMBOATS. The following list embraces all the Passage Boats built and running on the Hudson River, between New- York, Albany and Troy, since their first introduction by Robert Fulton, in the fall of 1807. Built, Name. Tons Commanders. Remarks. 1807 Clermont, - - - James Winan.s, Name changed. 1808 North River, - - 160 Samuel Wiswall, - - Broken up. 1809 Car of Neptune, - 295 A. H Roorabach, - - Broken up. 1811 Hope, -280 E. S. Bunker, - - - Broken up. 1811 Perseverance, - - 280 J Sherman, - . - - Hroken up. 1811 Paragon, - 331 Andrew Bartholomew, Sunk, 1825. 1813 Richmond, - - - 370 Joab Center, - - - Broken up. 1815 Oiive Branch, - - 265 James Moore, - - Broken up. 1816 Ch. Livingston, - - 494 S. Wiswall & J. Center, Coal barge. 1823 James Kent. - - 346 Thomas Wiswall, - - Coal barge. 1824 Hudson, . - - - 170 M. Bartholomew, - - Broken up. 1825 Sandusky, - - - 2S9 James Penoyer, - - - Tow boat. 1825 Constittition,* - - 276 Wm. J. Wiswall, - - Now Indiana. 1825 Constellation, - - 276 Robert G. Cruttenden. Tow barge. 1825 Ch. Jus. Marshall,! 300 Richard W. Sherman, I.ostinL.l. S'd. 1825 Saratoga, - - - - 250 James Benson, - - - Tow barse. 1826 Sun,J ?80 H. Drake, Burnt, 1831. 1826 New-Philadelphia, 300 (Jeorge E Seymotir, - Delaware river. 1827 Albany, . . . - 39S J. G. Jenkins &R. Macy Runs to Troy. 1827 Independence, - - 368 Wm. J. Wiswall, - - Pliila. route. 1827 North America, - 497 Gideon Lathrop, - - Des.byice,1839 1827 Victory, - . . - 290 Sanford Cobb, - - - From Rondout. 1828 De Witt Clinton, - 571 J. Sherman &S. R. Roe, Eng. in Knick. 1829 Ohio,§ - - - - 412 M. Bartholomew, • - Tow barge. 1830 Novelty, - - 477 Daniel Peck, - - From Rondout. 1832 Champlain, - - - 471 Adolphus G or ham. Tow barge. 1832 Erie,l - - . . 471 James Benson, - - - Tow barge. 1833 Helen, - - - . Henry Burden, - - - Destroyed, 1834 1835 Robert L. Stevens, 298 Joseph P. Dean, - To Piennont. 1836 Rochester, - - - 491 A. Houghton, - - - Runs to Albany 1836 Swallow, - - . 426 Alex. McLean. - - - Runs to Troy. 1837 Urica, - - - - 340 A. H. Shultz, ■ - - - Runs to Hudson 1838 Diamond, - - 398 A. Flower, - - - Laid up. 1839 Balloon, - - - - 204 David Hifchcock, - - F,aid up. 1839 North America, - 494 R. G. Cruttenden, - - Runs to A Ibany 1840 South America, - 638 M H. Tniesdell, - - Runs to Albany 1840 Ti-oy, 724 Adolphus Gorham, - - Runs to Troy. 1841 Columbia, - - - 391 T. P. Newbury, - - Runs to Albany 1841 Rainbow, - - - 230 Capt. Fury, - - . . Delaware river. 1842 1 Curtis Peck, - - Wm. Peck, - - - - Runs to Albany 1843 Empire, - - - - 936 Stephen R. Roe, - - Runs to Troy. ' 1843 Knickerbocker, - 858 A. P. St. John, - - - Runs to Albany Exploded her boilers in 1825, killing 3 persons, t Exploded her boiler in 1830, killing 11 persons. t Built to run as a day boat between New- York and Albany. § Exploded her chimney or flue in 1832, killing 5 persons. I Exploded her chimney or flue in 1838, slightly injuring 1 person. steamboats. 87 Passenger Barges. In 1826, the steamboat Commerce, Capt. George E. Seymour, towed the passenger barge Lady Clinton, and the steamboat Swiftsure, Capt. Cowden, towed the passen- ger barge Lady Van Rensselaer. 4. li 17 u 5. U 20 C( H- (( 30 i; 7. (C 36 cc Copy of an Advertisement taken from, the Albany Ga- zette, dated September, 1807. *'The North River Steamboat, will leave Pauler's Hook Ferry [now Jersey City,] on Friday the 4th of Sep- tember, at 9 in the morning, and arrive at Albany on Sa- turday, at 9 in the afternoon. Provisions, good berths and accommodations are provided. *' The charge to each passenger is as follows : To Newburgh, dols. 3, time, 14 hours. " Poughkeepsie, " Esopus, '' Hudson, " Albany, '* For places, apply toWm. Vandervoort, No. 48 Court- landt-street, on the corner of Greenwich-street. '' Sept. 2, 1807." Extract from theN. Y. Evening Post, dated Oct. 2, 1807. ''Mr. Fulton's new-invented steamboat, which is fitted up in a neat style for passengers, and is intended to run from New-York to Albany as a Packet, left here this morning with ninety passengers against a strong head wind. Notwithstanding which, it was judged she moved through the water at the rate of six miles an hour.". Extract from the Albany Gazette, dated Oct. 5, 1807^ " Friday, Oct 2, 1807, the steamboat [Clermont,] left New-York at 10 o'clock A. M. against a stormy tide, very rough water, and a violent gale from the north. She 88 STEAMBOATS. made a headway beyond the most sanguine expectations, and without being rocked by the waves. " Arrived at Albany Oct. 4, at 10 o'clock P. M. being detained by being obliged to come to anchor, owing to a gale, and having one of her paddle wheels tore away by running foul of a sloop," Note. — It is stated on the authority of Capt. E. S. Bunker, that the Clermont, or experiment boat, as sometimes called, the first steamboat constructed under the direction and superintendence of Robert Fulton in 1807, was 100 feet long, 12 feet wdde, and 7 feet deep. In 1808, she was lengthened to 150 feet, widened to 18 feet, and had her name changed to North River. The engine was constructed in England, by Watt & Bolton, and brought to New-York in Dec. 1306, by Mr. Fulton, The hull of the boat was constructed by David Brown, an eminent ship builder in New-York, In August 1807, the boat was propelled by steam from the East River to the Jersey shore, and on the 2d of October following she started on her first trip to Albany. THE CLERMONT. 90 TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. a distance of 72 miles from Albany. To St. John's, Cana- da, is a further distance of 157 miles, through Lake Champlain by steamboat. A railroad 15 miles long extends from St. John's to La Prairie on the St. Law- rencej and thence a steamboat runs to Monireal, a further distance of 9 miles. In going by the first route, through Saratoga Springs, the traveller has a choice of passing direct to Whitehall through Sandy Hill, or diverging to Glen's Falls, and thence to CaldM^ell, situated at the head of Lake George, or Horicon, v^here will be found a favorite public house. Passengers are then carried over the above charming piece of vt^ater in a steamboat, to the foot of the lake, 36 miles; thence by stage, 4 miles further, to the landing at Fort Ticonderoga on Lake Charaplainy where is delightfully situated a well kept public house. This is by far the most romantic and picturesque route, affording the traveller an opportunity to visit many points of great interest^ connected with stirring events, recorded in the history of the old French and Revolutionary wars. The route by railroad and canal packets, is considered the most expeditious and pleasant, as r. gards comfort,- passing through the villages of Waterford, Mechanics- ville and Stillwater, (by Bemus' Heights, and battle- ground, where Burgoyne surrendered to the American army under Gen. Gates, Oct. 17, 1777,) Schuylerville, Fort Miller, Fort Edward and Fort Ann, to the village of Whitehall ; being most of the way in sight of the beau- tiful Hudson, skirted by scenery of the most enchanting character. At Mechanicsville, 12 miles north of the city of Troy, is the place where the cars running on the Rens- selaer and Saratoga Railroad unite with passenger boats plying to Whitehall, during the season of navigation. TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 91 The village of Stillwater, is an old and quiet settle- ment, 4 miles further north. It was incorporated in 1816.J and now contains 400 or 500 inhabitants. In the north part of this town, is situated the battle ground where Gen. Burgoj^ne was defeated by the American army under General Gates in 1777. THE CAPTURE OF BURGOYNE. The place at which we have now arrived recalls one of the most important events of the Revolutionary war, and a brief notice of the principal incidents which preceded and accompanied the surrender of Gen. Burgoyne and his army, may not be unacceptable to the tourist whom we have undertaken to guide. The army of Burgoyne was probably the best equipped and most effective force brought into the field by the enemy for a specific object, during the whole contest; and its fate was mainly decided by two battles fought on very nearly the same ground, one on the 19th Septem- ber, and the other on the 7tli of October, 1777. The battle ground was on B emus' Heights, about two miles from, the Hudson river, in the town of Stillwater. The battle of Sept. 19th, was brought on accidentally rather than by design, originating in a skirmish between two advanced parties in a cleared field surrounded by the primitive forest, and known as Freeman's Farm. A small house in this clearing was occupied by a picket- guard of the British army, which lay to the north. A small party, detached from Col. Morgan's Rifle Corps, as the American army was advancing toward the enemy, fell in with the party posted in the house, attacked and drove them from it, and in pursuing them came unex- pectedly upon the main body of the enemy, by whom a part of their number were captured, and the rest dis- ^ TOUR TO THE SPRIIYGS, ETC. persed. This occurred a little past noon. Tn about an hour the fighting was partially renewed, but the action did not become general till about 3 o'clock, when it com- menced in earnest, and raged till night, both in the woods and in the clearing, the latter being the scene of the greatest slaughter. The battle was a very bloody one. The British forces kept their station in the rear of the clearing; and the Americans returned to their camp a lit* tie to the south. Burgoyne claimed a victory, but his loss, between five and six hundred, was nearly double that of the Americans^ and the relative circumstances of the two armies rendered his loss proportionately still more severe. The battle of October 7th, may be said, speaking in general terms, to have been fought on the same field as the former, but it covered more ground. It was brought on, (says Professor Silliman, in his " Toitr." published in 1820, where these battles and the incidents connected with, are very fully recounted,) by a movement of Gen. Burgoyne, who ordered a body of 1,500 men with ten pieces of cannon to the right of his own line, with the view of foixing the left wing of the American army and covering a foraging party in that direction. This occur- red about the middle of the afternoon; and the Ameri- cans, though destitute of artillery, promptly commenced the attack, and the battle soon extended along the whole line. " After a sanguinary contest of less than an hour, the discomfiture and retreat of the British, became gene- ral; and they had scarcely regained their camp when their lines were stormed with the greatest fury, and part of Lord Balcarras' camp was for a short time in our pos- session." The entrenchments of the German reserve, under Col. Breyman, were also stormed, the Colonel killed, and TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 93 his troops forced to abandon their position with great loss both of killed and priboners ; and had not the night put an end to the fighting, the whole British array would have been overwhelmed in their entrenchments. But though the coming on of night saved the enemy from further slaughter, yet the battle was decisive That same night the British abandoned their position, retired to their works on the heights, and on the succeeding night, leaving their camp fires lighted and various tents standing, commenced a further retreat with the utmost prac- ticable secrecy. The heavy rains and the deep roads so embarrassed their movements that the)'^ did not reach their last station, on the north side of the Fishkill creek till the morning of October 10th, There, on the high ground overlooking the meadows bordering the river, they took up their final position. They were speedily followed by Gen. Gates, whose forces were now greatly superior in numbers and were so advantageously disposed as to render further retreat by the British impossible, whose position, moreover, was completely commanded by the Americans. " Every part of the camp of the royal army," says Silliman, " was exposed not only to cannon balls, but to rifle shot; not a single place of safety could be found. Even access to the river was very hazardous, and the ar- my was soon distressed for want of water." In this exposed and hopeless situation the British con- tinued six days longer, when hostilities were terminated by the surrender of the whole army. The articles of capitulation were executed on the 16th, and the surren- der took place on the next day — October 17th, 1777. The ground on which Gen. Burgoyne delivered himself and his associates in command to Gen. Gates, was on the south bank of the Fishkill creek, near where now stands the village of Schuylerville. Gen. Wilkinson, an aid of 94 TOUR TO THE SPRINGS^ ETC. Gen. Gates, and an eye-witness of the scene, describes it as follows: " Early in the morning of the 17ih. I visited Gen. Burgoyne in his camp, and accompanied him to the ground where his army were to lay down their arms, from whence he rode to the bank of the Hudson river, which he surveyed %^ith attention and asked me whether it was not fordable. ' Certainly, sirj but do you observe the people on the opposite shore?' ' Yes, (i^eplied he,) 'I have seen them too long.' He thea proposed to be introduced to Gen. Gates, and we crossed the Fishkill and proceeded to head-quarters, Gen. Burgoyne in front, viath his Adjutant-General Kingston, and his aids Captain Lord Petersham, and Lieutenant Wilford behind him. Then followed Maj. Gen. Phillips, the Baron Reidesel, and the other general officers and their suites, according to rank. " Gen. Gates, advised of Burgoyne's approach, met him at the head of his camp, Burgoyne in a rich royal uni- form, and Gates in a plain blue frock. When they had approached nearly within sword's length, they reined up and halted. I then named the gentlemen, and Gen. Bur- gone raising his hat gracefully said — ' The fortune of war, Gen. Gates, has made me your prisoner;' to which the conqueror, returning a courtly salute, promptly re- plied, ' I shall always be ready to bear testimony that it has not been through any fault of your Excellency.' *' Maj. Gen Phillips then advanced, and he and Gen, Gates saluted and shook hands with the familiarity of old acquaintances. The Baron Reidesel and the other officers were introduced in their turn." The ground on which the captured troops piled their arms, was on the north bank of the Fishkill near its con- fluence with the Hudson. It is 34 miles from Albany, TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 95 and 11 miles above Stillwater village, and 10 miles east of Saratoga Springs. The severest individual loss of the British during the severe and bloody struggle between these two armies, was in the person of Gen. Frazier, who was shot by one of Morgan's riflemen posted in a tree, in the battle of October 7th. He was buried . the next morning- within the principal redoubt on the heights. Mr. Silliman states on a visit to the spot, in 1797, he found the grave still visible, with a slight enclosure round it, but that subse- quently the remains were removed to their native land. He was an accomplished and gallant officer, possessing the entire confidence and good-will of the army and greatly respected and beloved by his associates. The circumstances connected with his death and burial; the capture of Major Ackland, of the British Grenadiers, who was disabled by a severe wound and taken prisoner in the same battle; the heroic fortitude of his wife, lady Harriet Ackland, and of the Baroness Reidesel, in the vai'ious scenes of peril and suffering through which they passed; and the kindness and courtesy with which they were treated by the victors, particularly by Gen. Schuy- ler and his family, and which gave additonal lustre to the victory, all these incidents have imparted to the principal events of this scene a degree of romantic interest with which few others, if any of the military occurrences of that war are invested. A visit to the battle grounds has become a favorite excursion to travellers, and by visiters sojourning at the Springs, during the summer months. Ballston Spa, 12 miles northwest of Mechanicsville, is an old and celebrated watering place. It is situated in a valley near the Kayaderosseras creek, 30 miles north of the city of Albany, and 24 miles from Troy, by 96 SARATOGA SPRINGS. railroad. It was incorporated in 1S07, and now contains about 1,500 inhabitants, a court-house and jail, 1 Presby- terian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist churchy 1 banking house, 6 hotels and taverns, and several pri- vate boarding houses for visiters during the summer months. The oldest and still the most esteemed foun- tain, is known as the '^public ueZZ," en the flat west of the centre of the village. It is said to have been first dis- covered by the whites, in 1769, during the survey and par- tition of the Kayaderosseras patent. It issues from a bed of stiff blue clay and gravel. Besides the above, there are several other springs of less note, possessing medicinal properties of a similar character. The Sans Souci Hotel at this place, erected by the late Nichlas Low, Esq., in 1803, is an old and popular board- ing house, delightfully situated near the centre of the village. It is often thronged during the summer months with visiters from every section of the United States and Europe. The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad terminates at this place, where it unites with the Saratoga and Sche- nectadij Railroad^ thus affording a speedy communica- tion with the cities of Schenectady, Troy and Albany, and with Saratoga Springs, 6| miles north of Ballston Spa. The village of Sakatoga Springs, pleasantly situated on a plain, surrounded in part by a beautiful grove of pine trees, is the most noted watering place in the Union, the mineral springs, possessing great medicinal properties, vary somewhat in their analyses. It is built chiefly on one broad street, and the numerous large hotels and houses for the accommodation of visiters, give it an im- posing appearance, particularly when thronged with com- pany, as it usually is during the summer months. It was incorporated in 1816, and now contains about 2,500 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 97 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, one Presbyterian, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist, one Universalist and one Roman Catholic church ; one mutual insurance company, an incorporated academy, a female seminary and several select schools ; the Young Men's Association, e new and popular chartered institution, numbering about 150 members j 35 stores of different kinds ; 2 iron foun- dries, 1 machine shop, an extensive carriage manufac- tory, and 3 printing offices, besides many other kinds of mechanic work shops. The hotels and boarding houses are numerous, and many of them fitted up on a large and magnificent scale, unsurpassed by any similar establishments in the Union. The United States Hotel, situated near the railroad depot, is a large four story brick edifice, furnishing accommoda- tions for 400 guests ; the location is central, and within a short distance of all the principal mineral springs. Con- gress Hall, and Union Hall, are both old and popular es- tablishments, situated on the south of the village near the Congress Spring. The American Hotel is a new house built of brick, in the centre of the village. It is well furnished, and is kept open through the year, affording good accommodations both in winter and summer. The Columbian Hotel, Montgomery Hall, and jidelphi Hotel y are all well kept public houses, and remain open for the accommodation of visiters during the whole year. The Washington Hall, Railroad House, Eagle Hotel, Tempe- rance Hotel, Congress Spring Temperance House, Har- mony Hall, New England Hall, and Prospect Mansion House, besides some 20 or 30 private boarding houses, also accommodate visiters. There are several public bathing houses near the springs, wdiere cold and warm water and shower baths can at all times be obtained. The railroads afford a speedy communication between the Springs and the cities of Albany, Schenectady, and 93 SARATOGA SPRINGS. Troy. The Saratoga and Washington Railroad, when completed, is to extend from Saratoga Springs to White- hall, a distance of 40 miles. Stages now run from the Springs to Glen's Falls and Caldwell's, as well as to San- dy Hill, Dunham's Basin, and Whitehall. The celebrated Mineral Waters, which are the great cause of attraction to this place, require a particular des' criplion. At what precise period these springs were first discovered, cannot now with any degree of certainty be ascertained As early as 1773, a settlement was made here, a little west of the High Rock Spring, for the dou- ble purpose of trading with the Indians, and accommo- dating invalids. The High Rock and Flat Rock were the only springs at that time known. The Congress Spring was first discovered in 1792. There are now within the distance of about half a mile, some 10 or 12 important mineral fountains, flowing to the surface, and most of them located near the margin of a brook which runs through the village on the east. Congress Spring, Wash- ington Spring, Putnam's Spring, Pavilion Springs, Io- dine Spring, Hamilton Spring, and the Flat Rock and High Rock Springs, may be named as the most valuable for their medicinal properties, and as objects of curiosity. A cluster of mineral springs known as the " Ten Springs," are situated about one mile east of the village. The most celebrated of these springs is known as the Union Spring ; in the vicinity of which is the Mansion House, a well kept summer establishment. Large quantities of these waters are annually exported to dilFerent parts of the country, affording a handsome income to the several owners, most of them being private property, although no charge is made to visiters, other than what they vol- untarily give to those who are employed to wait on them. SARATOGA SPRINGS. 99 The following are analyses of some of the priacipal Springs of Saratoga. Congress Spring. — From experiments and deductions by Dr. Steel, one gallon, or 231 cubic inches of the wa- ter of the Congress Spring, is found to contain the fol- lowing substances, viz : Grains. Chloride of Sodium, (sea salt) 3S5.000 Hydriodate of Soda, 3 . 500 Bi-carbonate of " 8.982 " of Magnesia, 95.788 Carbonate of Lime, 9S . 098 " of Iron, 5.075 Silex, 1.500 Hydro-bromate of Potash, a trace, Total grains, 597.943 Carbonic acid gas, cubic inches , 311 Atmospheric air, 7 Gaseous contents, 318 Washington Spring, is situated in a southwest di- rection from Congress Spring. It is a sparkling acidu- lous water; its temperature is 50 -degress, and one gallon of it affords the following articles, viz : Grains. Chloride of sodium, 2S1.50 Bi-carbonate of Soda 16.50 " ofMagnesia, 40.92 Carbonate of Lime, 92.60 '• of Iron, 3.25 Silex , 3 . 50 Hydriodate of Soda, 2-75 Solid contents in a gallon, 439 . 02 Carbonic acid gas, cubic inches, 262.50 Atmospheric air, 6.80 Gaseous contents in a gallon, 269 • 30 L.ofC. 100 SARATOGA SPRINGS. Putnam's Congress Spring, is located a few rods east of the United States Hotel. The following is an analj'sis taken by James R. Chilton, M. D. of New- York city. One gallon of water contains the following ingredients, viz : Grains, Chloride of Sodium, 214.00 Carbonate of Soda, 14.32 of Lime, 6S.80 Iodide of Sodium, with a trace of Bromide of Potassium, 2.00 Phospliate of Lime, • . • .21 Sulphate of Soda, 1.63 Carbonate of Magnesia, 51.60 " of Iron, 7.00 Silicia, 84 Alumina, -56 Total, 361 . 01 Carbonic acid, cubic inches, 341.88 Atmospheric air, 6 . 04 Total, 347 . 92 The gases were obtained and analyzed at the Spring, the temperature of the water being 51° Fahrenheit, in July. Pavilion Fountain. This celebrated medicinal foun- tain rises in a valley near the Pavilion Hotel, [destroyed by fire in 1843,] and was tubed up from a depth of forty feet, in May, 1840, after incredible labor and expense The great curiosity it excited, and the crowds which it daily attracted, induced the proprietors to have the same analyzed in August following, when one gallon of water was found to contain these constituents, viz : SARATOGA SPRINGS. 101 Grains, Chloride of Sodium, 226.58 Carbonate of Mas^nesia, 62.50 " of Lime, 60.24 Carbonate of Soda, 4.70 Oxide of Iron, 3.10 Iodide of Sodium, > 9 75 Bromide of Potassium, • ) ' Silica, .62 Alumina, .25 Total, 361.74 Carbonic acid gas, 480.01 Atmospheric air, 8 . 09 Cubic inches, 488. 10 The quantity of gas which evolves from the Pavilion Fountain is double its volume of water ; which fact ren- ders it an object of great curiosity, and increases its me- dicinal properties. Iodine Spring, is a new fountain, located a few rods north of the celebrated High Rock Spring. According to an analysis of Professor Emmons, of the Medical Col- lege in Albany, one gallon of this water contains the fol- lowing ingredients : Grains. Muriate of Soda, 187 Carbonate of Lime, 26 '' Iron, 1 " Magnesia, 75 '' Soda, 2 Hydriodate of Soda or Iodine, 3^ Total, 294^ Carbonic acid gas, ( water bottled three weeks,). . 330 Atmospheric air, . - 4 Cubic inches, 334 The freedom of this water from iron is truly remarka- ble, and as Professor E. remarks, " supplies a desidera- 102 SARATOGA SPRINGS. turn which has been long wanting, viz : a water which may be drank by a certain class of invalids to whom iron proves a decided injury. Union Spring, one of the most celebrated of the "Ten Springs:" analyzed in 1841, by James R. Chil- ton, M. D. One gallon of this water contains the fol- lowing ingredients : Grains. Chloride of Sodium, 243.620 Carbonate of Magnesia, 84.265 " Lime, 41.600 '' Soda, 12.800 " Iron, 5.452 Iodide of Sodium, 3.600 A trace of Bromide of Potassium, Silica and Alumina, 1 • 570 Total, 392.907 Carbonic acid gas, (from water bottled four weeks,) 314.16 Atmospheric air, > 4.62 Cubic inches, 318.78 Saratoga Lake, lying in Saratoga county, is a beau- tiful sheet of water, 4 miles southeast of the village of Saratoga Springs, and 5 miles east of Ballston Spa : it is 9 miles long and about 2 miles wide. This lake is much resorted to during the summer months by parties of pleasure, and it is stored with pike, pickerel, perch and other fish. The shores abound with game, and with the lake, afford ample sport to the huntsman and angler. On leaving Saratoga Springs for the north, the travel- ler is conveyed by stage to Glen's Falls and Caldwell, or to Whitehall, via Sandy Hill, or Dunham's Basin ; at the latter place the stage line connects with canal packet boats running from Albany and Troy, to Whitehall. TOUR TO LAKE GEORGE, ETC. 103 The village of Glen's Falls, on the Hudson, 18 miles north of Saratoga Springs, is a place of great interest. The falls in the river at this point have a total de- scent of about 50 feet, are varied and picturesque, and af- ford hydraulic power to a vast extent, which is yet hut partially used for manufacturing purposes. A new and substantial bridge, about 500 feet long, has been erected here on the site of the old one. It is a free bridge and affords a favorable view of the falls and river. The Champlain canal feeder passes on the north side of the river at this place, receiving its waters from the Hudson, two miles above the village, and uniting with the Cham- plain canal a few miles east of Sandy Hill, affording a navigable communication with Lake Champlain, and the tide waters of the Hudson river. This village was incorporated in 1839, and now con- tains about 1,800 inhabitants, 225 dwelling houses, one Presbyterian, one Baptist, and one Methodist church j an incorporated academy, and a female seminary ; four hotels and taverns ; thirty stores and groceries ; one grist mill, four extensive saw-mills, including three gang mills of twenty-five saws each, and four English mills ; four marble mills, containing 275 saws ; one plaster mill, one furnace, three machine shops, one marble polishing and chimney piece manufactory, two tanneries, and three ex- tensive establishments for making lime. On both sides of the river at this place are extensive beds of black mar- ble, which for beauty of color and brilliancy of polish, are not exceeded in this country. From this marble, lime also is made of a superior quality. Below the falls, na- ture has exposed the strata in such a way that the thick- ness of the several layers can be examined to the depth of at least 70 feet. 104 TOUR TO LAKE GEORGE, ETC. The principal hotel at Glen's Falls, where the stage usually stops for passengers to dine, has long been cele- brated for its delicious hill of fare. The road from this place to Caldwell, at the head of Lake George, a distance of 9 miles, passes over a wild and romantic region of country, connected with stirring events in the Revolutionary and old French wars, which make it classic p^round. Before reaching Lake George you pass the " Bloody Pond,'^ near which in Septemherj 1755, about 1,000 English and French Mere killed, and their bodies thrown into this pond, which now presents a wild and gloomy appearance. The village of Caldwell is delightfully situated at the southwest end of Lake George, 62 miles north of the city of Albany. It contains about 200 inhabitants, 35 dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, a county clerk's office, one church, four hotels and taverns, two stores, one grist-mill, one saw-mill, and a plaster mill, situated on Mill brook. In the vicinity of this place, near the south end of the Lake, is situated the site of old Fort Willia?n Henry, and a short distance beyond, the ruins of Fort George ; still further south are the ruins of Fori Gage ; all of which are associated with the early history of this part of the country both in peace and war. The Lake House, at this place is a well kept hotel, and is much resorted to during warm weather. It is a delight- ful summer retreat, where are to be found desirable accom- modations for fishing parlies and parlies of pleasure. — The steamer William Caldwell, plies regularly between Caldwell and the outlet of the lake at Ticonderoga, a distance of 36 miles ; stages then transport passengers a distance of 4 miles from the landing on Lake George, to the steamboat landing on Lake Champlain ; affording one of the most picturesque and romantic excursions imaginable. X,AKE G120IIGE. 105 Lake George, or Horicon, is justly celebrated for its varied, romantic and beautiful scenery, and for the trans- parency and purity of its waters. It is 36 miles long, north and south, and from two to three miles wide ; and is elevated 243 feet above the tide water of the Hudson, although its waters flow north into Lake Champlain. It is surrounded by high and picturesque hills, sometimes rising to mountain height — ^and dotted with numerous islands, said to count as many as there are days in the year -, some are of considerable size, and cultivated ; while others are only a barren rock, rising majestically out of the surrounding waters. Diamond Island, near the village of Caldwell, is celebrated for its beautiful quartz crystals, which in shape and brilliancy resemble pure diamonds. The wild and romantic scenery of this lake is no where surpassed. The bed of the lake is a handsome yellowish sand, and the water is so pure and transparent, as to render the bottom visible from 30 to 40 feet. Here the delicious salmon trout, that weigh from 5 to 20 pounds, are found in great numbers and of the finest quality. Silver trout, brook trout, pike, pickerel, perch, and several other kinds of fresh water lish are also abundant. Travellers on the tour from the Springs to Canada, should not fail to visit Lake George ; by the French called Lat Sacrament, on account of the purity of its waters. The steamboat " "William Cald* well," runs through the lake, from Caldwell to the land- ing near the village of Ticonderoga, whence stages run to Fort Ticonderoga, at the steamboat landing on Lake Champlain ; where steam passage boats on their route from Whitehall to St. John's, touch daily, during the season of navigation. This route is varied in scenery, and deeply interesting in historical incidents. H 106 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. Route from Saratoga Springs to Whitehall. The village of Sandy Hill, through which passes the stage route from Saratoga Springs to Whitehall, is situated on elevateJ ground on the east side of the Hudson, 19 miles from Saratoga Springs, and 50 miles north of the city of Albany. The water power at this place is very great, there being a fall of about 12 feet at the upper part of the village, while about 100 rods teicw with a continuous descent, are situated Baker^s Falls, where there is an almost perpendicular fall of 50 feet, affording hydraulic power to a great extent, none of which is at present used for manufacturing purposes. The Champlain canal feeder passes through this place, uniting v>"ith the main canal one or two miles east of the village, affording canal navigation to Lake Champlain and to the navigable w-aters of the Hudson. The Sara- toga and 'V/ashington Railroad, when completed, will run through Sandy Hill, from Saratoga Springs to White- hall, a distance of 40 miles. A daily line of stages run during the summer months from Saratoga Springs to Dunham's Basin, 2 miles east of Sandy Hill, on the Champlain Canal, connecting with canal packets running from Albany and Troy to Whitehall. The village of Fort Edward is 2 miles south of San. dy Hill. This vicinity having been celebrated during the old French and Revolutionary wars, as the theatre of military exploits and savage murder, Ave subjoin the fol- lowing extract : " The remains of Fort Edward are still to be seen in the very centre of the romantic little village which now bears its name. At a short distance north, the place is shown where Miss Jane McCrea was mur- dered by the Indians. Tradition has accurately preserv- ed the location of that most bloody and most melancholy deed. She was on her way to join an officer in the British TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 107 army to whom she was to be married. She cominilted herself, against the remonstrance of her friends, to a party of Indians as the safest escort in those times. They met another party at this place, sent by the anxious and expecting bridegroom, and an altercation ensued in re- ference to the promised reward ; in the midst of which they were attacked hj a party of whites. When the con- flict was over she was found tomahawked and scalped. Her lover was overwhelmed with grief, and survived but a short time." Fort Ann, 10 miles north of Sandy Hill, is a place of interest, being on^ of many fortified points between Lake Charaplain and the Hudson river, celebrated in the early history of the country. The old fort, of which hardly a vestige now remains, was erected in 1756. The village of Whitehall, 72 miles north of Albany, is advantageously situated in a narrow valley at the head of Lake Champlain ; it was incorporated in 1820, and now contains about 2,400 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, one Presbyterian, one Episcopal, and one Metho- dist church ,• one banking house, four hotels, thirty stores and groceries, and two extensive forwarding houses; several manufacturing establishments ; two ship yards and two dry docks, where are built and repaired steam- boats, lake craft and canal boats; two brick yards and one tannery, besides almost every other kind of mechanic work shops. Here are owned 2 or 3 steamboats for the conveyance of passengers and merchandise, and two steamboats used as tow boats ; 50 sloops and schooners, averaging about 100 tons burthen, and 70 canal boats, besides others owned on diflerent parts of Lake Cham- plain, which trade with and pass through this place. Two daily lines of canal packets leave Whitehall for Troy and Albany, and two daily lines of stages, one pas- sing on each side of the Hudson river ; in addition to 108 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. which two daily lines of stages run to Saratoga Springs during the summer months, connecting with the railroads to Troy, Schenectady and Albany. A daily line of stages run to Rutland, Vermont, intersecting stage lines running to Boston, &c. During the close of navigation, a daily line of stages run from here to Burlington and Montreal. The passenger steamboats now running on Lake Cham- plain, from Whitehall to St. John's, Canada, are the Burlington, commanded by Richard W. Sherman, the Whitehall, commanded by G. Lathrop, and the Saranac, These boats are celebrated for the admirable discipline observed on board and for quiet and comfort. One of the above boats will leave Whitehall daily, at 10 o'clock A. M. during the season of navigation, which usually lasts from the middle of April to the first of De- cember. The fare through to St. John's is now reduced to $3.00 for cabin passage. Lake Champlain, lying between the states of New- York and Vermont, extends north and south a distance of 140 miles ; varying from half a mile or less, to 10 miles in width ; it is a long, narrow and deep body of water, dotted with a number of islands, the largest of which be- long to Vermont. From Whitehall to Crown Point, the lake is quite narrow, but here it begins to expand, and soon becomes 3 miles wide, still increasing northward, until near Burlington, where it spreads to its greatest width. Steamboats of the first class, and sloops of from 50 to 100 tons burthen navigate this lake its whole length, thence down the Sorelle, or Richelieu river, its outlet, to St. Johns, Canada, where steamboat navigation ceases ; a total distance of about 150 miles. This lake is connect- ed with the navigable waters of the Hudson, by means of the Champlain canal, which extends south, a distance of 63 miles; also by the Chambly Canal, on the north, with the St. Lawrence river. As you approach near the TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 109 centre of Lake Champlain, a large body of water presents itself to view, bordered by scenery of the most picturesque description. The headlands which are seen to great ad- vantage, and the vast ranges of mountains on either side, are truly grand and romantic. The highest peak of the Green Mountains, called the " Camel's Rump/' is seen on the east, while the high ranges of the mountains of Essex county, are seen on the west. This latter range of moun- tain peaks, the Adirondack group, contain the highest land in the state of New- York, rising in some places to the height of 5,000 feet and upwards, richly stored with iron ore and timber of large growth. In the streams which flow into this lake are frequent waterfalls of great beauty ; and the fine headlands and bays of the lake itself give a picturesque charm to its shores. Its waters are stocked with salmon, salmon trout, sturgeon, pickerel, and various other kinds of fish. FoBT TicoNDEROGA. The ruins of this old fortification are situated in the town of Ticonderoga, Essex Co. on the west side of Lake Champlain, at the entrance of the outlet of Lake George, 24 miles north of Whitehall. This place was originally called Che-on-der-o-ga hy the Indians, sig- nifying, in their language, noise; its name was afterwards slightly changed by the French into its present appellation, which it has borne ever since it was first occupied and forti- fied by them in 1756. The fort was at first named Fort Carillion, but afterwards called Fort Ticonderoga, by the English and Americans. This fortification cost the French goyernment a large sum of money, and was considered very strong both by nature and art. It stands on a point of land, elevated 70 feet above Lake Champlain, being surrounded on three sides by water, and on the northwest it was defended by strong breast works. Mount Inde- pendence^ on the opposite or east side of the lake, was no TOUR TO CANADAj ETC. also fortified, and some of the intrench ments are still visible, elevated 110 feet above the lake, and overlook- ing the peninsula of Ticonderoga. After several sangui- nary conflicts in this vicinity and under the very walls of the fort, in which several thousand lives were sacrificed, this important niilitary position was tamely evacuated by the French in 1759, and given up to the British array under Lord Amherst ; who retained possession until it was taken by surprise by Col. Ethan Allen, of the American armj^, in 1775. He is said to have entered the fort through a subterraneous passage from the south, extend- ing to the lake ; surprising the commandant in his bed be- fore he vras aware of his danger, and in his characteris- tic way required the officer to surrender. He asked to whom? "Why, to Jehovah and the Continental Con- gress, to be sure j" was his laconic reply. In 1777, the British army, under Gen. Burgoyne, on their route to Saratoga, appeared in array before Ticonderoga, w'hen Gen. St. Clair, the American commander, was forced to evacuate J the enemy having erected a battery on 3Iouni Defiance, in the rear, elevated 720 feet above the lake, which overlooked and completely commanded this forti- fication, which was before considered almost impregna- ble ; it then remained in the hands of British until the close of the war. Since tliat time it has been suffered to go to decay, and now presents one of the most interesting ruins of the kind in this country, and is annually visited by a great number of travellers. Near by, delightfully situated on the lake shore, is a well kept hotel for the ac- commodation of visiters. Here steamboats, during the season of navigation, daily land and receive passengers, on their route from Whitehall to St. John's, Canada. TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. Ill The following account of the dkff.at of the British AT TicoNDEKOGA, IN 1759, is taken from the " Memoirs an American LaJy,'' written b}- Mrs. Grant. " The araiy un.ler the command of Gen. Abercrorabie, crossed Lake George on the 5th of July, and landed with- out opposition. They proceeded in four columns to Ti- conderoga, and displayed a spectacle unprecedented in the New World. An army of sixteen thousand men, regu- lars and provin3ials, with a train of artillery, and all the necessary pro\'isions for an active campaign cr regular siege, followed by a fleet of batteaux, pontons. &c. They set out wrong, however, by not having Indian guides, who are alone to be depended en in such a place. In a short time the columns fell in upon each other, and oc- casioned much confusion. The advance guard of the French, w'hich had retired before them, were equally be- wildered, and falling in with each other in this confusion, a skirmish ensued, in which the French lost above three hundred m^en, and the English, though successful in this first rencontre, lost as much as it was possible to lose, in one man — for here it w^as that the valiant Lord How^e, the second in command, fell mortally w-ounded. He was shot from behind a tree, probably by some Indians ; and the whole army w'ere inconsolable for a loss they too well knew to be irreparable. '' The fort is in a situation of peculiar natural strength ; it lies on a little peninsula, wdth Lake Champlain on one side and a narrow opening communicating wdth Lake George, on the other. This garrison, which was well prepared for attack, and almost impregnable from situa- tion, was defended by between four and five thousand men. An engineer sent to reconnoitre, was of opinion that it might be attacked wdthout waiting for the artillery. The fatal resolution was taken without consulting those who were best qualified to judge. 112 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. " I cannot enter into the dreadful detail of what fol' lowed. Certainly never was infatuation equal to this. The forty-second regiment was then in the height of de- served reputation, and commanded by a veteran of great experience and military skill, Col. Gordon Graham, who had the first point of attack assigned to him He was wounded at the first onset, and of the survivors, every officer retired wounded off the field. Of the fifty- fifth f egiment, ten officers were killed, including all the field officers. No human beings could show more determined courage than this brave array did — standing four hours under a constant discharge of, cannon and musketry from barricades, on which it was impossible for them to make the least impression. Gen. Abercrombie saw the fruit- less waste of blood that was every hour increasing, and ordered a retreat, which was very precipitate ; so much so, that they crossed the lake, and regained their camp on the other side, the same night. Two thousand men were killed, wounded, or taken in this disastrous engage- ment ; which, was however, quickly succeeded by the dear bought conquest of Quebec, where fell both the ri- val commanders, Wolfe and Montcalm." Mount Defiance, about one mile southwest of Fort Ti- conderoga, on the south side of the outlet to Lake George, is a bold promontory, elevated about 800 feet above the level of the Lake. While the ascent from the water or eastern face is quite steep and difficult, the approach from the west is easy. It was from this quarter that Gen. Burgoyne, in 1777, ascended this mountain and planted several pieces of artillery — obliging the Ameri- cans to evacuate the fort, which was before considered al- most impregnable. The top of this eminence gives a grand view of Lake Champlain and the surrounding country, and is well worthy of a visit, which can easily be accomplished on foot. TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 113 The village of Ticonderoga, two miles west of Lake Champlain, is situated on the outlet of Lake George, where is a thriving settlement, surrounded by picturesque mountain scenery. One or two miles farther west on the road to Lake George, is situated ano- ther village called Upper Ticonderoga or Alexandria, Here is a most beautiful fall of water, affording immense hydraulic power, a small part of which is only used for propelling machinery. The steamboat landing, at the foot of Lake George, is about one mile west of the latter place, the whole distance to Lake Champlain being four miles. Shokeham, 2 miles from Ticonderoga, on the opposite side of the lake, is a regular steamboat landing. Bridport, 9 miles further, is another landing on the Vermont shore. Chimney Point, 6 miles north of Bridport, is also another landing on the east side of the lake. Crown Point, 18 miles north of Ticonderoga, on the west side of Lake Champlain, presents an interesting ap- pearance from the water. The ruins of the old fortifi- cations are situated on a neck of land running into the lake ; the embankments are visible and indicate an im- mense amount of labor expended to render this point in- vulnerable to an approaching foe, whether by land or wa- ter ; yet it was taken by surprise, at the commencement of the revolutionary struggle, by the celebrated Col. Ethan Allen. Port Henry, on the west side of the lake is situated on Cedar Point, at the mouth of Bulwagga Bay , which separates Crown Point from the main land. Here are the works of the Port Henry Iron Company , with iron ore of good quality in the vicinity. Westport, 54 miles north of Whitehall, is situated on northwest bay, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It 114 TOUR TO CANADAj ETC. contains 6 or 700 inhabitants and is a thriving place. A horse ferry boat here plies across the lake, running to Basin Harbor, Vermont. Fort Cassin, 7 miles further north, on the east side of Lake Champlain, is situated near the mouth of the Otter river, which is navigable to Vergennes, a distance of 5 miles. Split Rock, on the wes? side of the lake, 2 or 3 miles south of the village of Essex, is a rocky promontory pro- jecting into the lake on the west side, about 150 feet, and elevated above the level of the water some 30 or 40 feet. This is perhaps the greatest natural curiosity on Lake Champlain. 'The part detached contains about half an acre, covered with a small growth of trees, and is sepa- rated from the main rock about 20 feet. It is evident this rock has been detached by some convulsion of nature, as the two faces exactlj^ fit each other — the prominences in the one corresponding with the cavities in the other. The village of Essex, 6S miles from Whitehall, is handsomely situated on the west side of Lake Cham- plain, opposite Charlotte Landing, with M'hich it is connected by a horse ferry boat. The lake here expands to 3 or 4 miles in width, and presents a large expanse of water towards the north. The Green Mountains of Ver- mont, and the Adirondack Group of Essex county, are here seen stretching north and south in vast mountain peaks and ridges. The CameVs Rump, being one of the highest peaks of the former, is overlooked by Mount Marcy on the New- York side of the lake, the latter being elevated 5,467 feet, or upwards of one mile above the tide waters of the Hudson ; and near it this noble river has its most northern source. TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 115 BtTRLiNGTON, Vermont, 82 miles from Wliitehall and 75 miles from St. John's, Canada, b)- steamboat route, is most delightfully situated on the east shore of Lake Chaniplain. This is Ihe most important place in the irtate, lying on Burlington Bay. It possesses a convenient and safe harbor for steamboats and lake craft. The United States government have here erected a breakwater, v/hich protects the shipping from westerly winds, and is a great addition to the security of the harbor. In 1840, it contained a population of 4,721 inhabitants; about 600 dwelling houses; the University of Vermont, consisting of four spacious edifices; the Episcopal Insti- tute; a court-house and jail; 7 churches of difterent de- nominations, an academy and 2 female seminaries, 2 banking houses, several well kept hotels, and a number of stores of different kinds; besides several factories and mills, and most every kind of mechanic establishments. This village overlooking the lake, with its bays, islands, and adjacent scenery — the passing steamboats and other vessels; possesses a beauty of location probably unsurpass- ed by any other place in the Union, In tradp and commerce it is closely allied with the interests of the State of New- York. Steamboats stop here daily on their route from Whitehall to St. John's. Canada; a steamboat also plies from this place to Port Kent, en the opposite side of the lake, a distance of 10 miles, and thence to Plattsburgh, a further distance of 12 miles. Port Kent, is advantageously situated on the west side of Lake Champlain, 12 miles south of the village of Plattsburgh. It contains about 250 inhabitants, 30 dwel- ling houses, 1 church, 2 taverns, 3 stores and 2 ware- houses. The site of this place is beautiful, command- ing one of the finest views on Champlain, extending to 116 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. the opposite shore of Vermont. It is contemplated to construct a railroad from Port Kent to the Au Sable Forks, a distance of 16 miles, passing through the villages of KeesevUle and Clintonville. Immediately south of the landing at this place, lies Trembleu Point, the com- mencement of the Clinton range of mountains, Keeseville, is situated on both sides of the Au Sable river, 4 miles west of Port Kent. It contains about 2,000 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, 1 Congregational, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist and 1 Roman Catholic church, an incorporated academy, 1 banking house, 2 taverns, and 18 stores and groceries. The water power at this place is very great, and advantageously used by several manu- facturing establishments. The "Keeseville Manufactur- ing Company" is chartered, with a paid capital of $40,000 j they own on the north side of the river, an extensive water power, on which is situated a forge with three fires, a rolling mill and nail factory, which manufacture into roll iron and nails about 1,000 tons of iron annually. The "Keeseville Wollen and Cotton Company" is also chartered, with a paid capital of $30,000: they own on the south side a large factorj'^ building, to which is at- tached a drying house and a dye house, all built of stone in the most substantial manner. There are also 2 flouring mills, 4 extensive saw mills, which make annually about half a million of market boards; 1 furnace and a ma- chine shop, 1 plaster mill, 1 brewery, 1 large wheel- wright shop, 1 tannery, and 1 printing office, together with most other kinds of mechanic work shops. At Birmingham, 2 miles below Keeseville, is a sue cession of picturesque falls, in all about 150 feet descent. Immediately below the lower falls the river enters a deep ravine of singular and romantic beauty. Through the chasm thus formed by the wearing of the waters, or TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 117 some convulsion of nature, the rocks rise from 75 to 150 feet, almost perpendicular, for a distance of about two miles, averaging about 50 feet in width, altogether form- ing a great natural curiosity. In addition to the above, there are other ravines in this vicinity of singular for. mation. Plattsburgh, is situated on both side of the Saranac river, on the west shore of Lake Champlain, 162 miles north of the city of Albany. It was incorporated in 1815, and now contains about 2,600 inhabitants, 350 dwelling houses, a court-house, jail and county clerk's officej 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist and 1 Roman Catholic churchj an incorporated lyceum and an incorporated academy ; 5 hotels and tav- erns, 30 stores and groceries, 1 flouring mill, 1 grist mill, 2 cotton factories, 3 woollen factories, 2 marble mills, 2 fulling mills, 2 saw mills, 2 tanneries, 1 machine shop, 1 soap manufactory, and 2 printing offices, together with almost every other kind of mechanic work shops. The water power at this place is very great; the Saranac river here ^having a succession of falls, making a total descent of about 40 feet; only a part of which is occu- pied for manufacturing purposes. The surrounding coun- try is rich in agricultural and mineral productions, and Plattsburgh is the proposed termination of the Ogdens- burgh and Lake Champlain Railroad, which when com- pleted, will greatly tend to develop the resources of the whole northern part of the State of New- York. This is an United States military post, where the government are now erecting extensive stone barracks, near the lake shore, south of the village, and a permanent breakwater for the protection of the harbor. Plattsburgh was the scene of an important engagement between the British and American armies, in September, 118 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 1814, which resulted in the defeat of the British, under the command of Sir George Prevost, and the capture of the British fleet under Com. Downie, who was killed in the action. The American army was commanded by Maj. Gen. Macomb, and the fleet by Com. PvIcDonough. The officers, on both sides, who fell in the several encounters by land and water, on the memorable occasion just mentioned, were buried in the public cemetery adja- cent to the village of Plattsburgh; but their graves were left, under the pressing exigencies of that time, without any permanent monument, or stone of memorial. That community, long discontented with an omission w^hich seemed to betoken an apathy not at all in unison with real feelings, at last determined to make amends for their neglect, and fufil all the rites of sepulture. Accordingly, a little previous to the return of the anniversary of the battle, in 1843, meetings were held at which it Avas re- solved to celebrate the day, by placing marble monu- ments, with appropriate inscriptions, at the several graves, and thus render to the brave and devoted dead, the remaining public honors so eminently their due, and so long left unpaid. This design was carried into eflfect under the superintendence of the Clinton County Mili- tary Association, and the anniversary rendered deeply interesting by the placing of these monuments, wdth ap- propriate ceremonies and religious services, accompanied by commemoration addresses. The graves are arranged in the form of a parallelogram, with that of Capt. Downie, the commander of the British flotilla, in the centre, as the officer of highest rank. The names of the others, so far as known, are as follow: Of our own countrymen, Lt. George W. Runk, of the U. S. A.J Lt. Peter Gamble, U. S. N.; Lt. John Stan?, bury, U. S. N.j Sailing Master Rogers Carter, U. S. N.j TOUR TO CANADA, ECT. 119 Midshipman James M. Baldwin, U. S. N.; Pilot Joseph Barron, U. S. N., and another pilot, name not known. Of the British army j Col. Wellington, 3d Regt. Buffs, Capt, PurchesS; 76th Regt., and a Lieutenant, name not known, of the 3d Regt. Buffs; and of the British navy three Lieutenants, names not known. The beautiful lines of an Irish poet of the last century, (Collins,) can never be more appropriate than to this occasion: " How sleep the brave who sink to rest, By all their country's wislies blest ! When spring with dewy fingers colrl, Returns to deck their hallowed moulrl. She there shall dress a sweeter sod Than fancy's feet liave ever trotl. Tiiere honor comes, a pilgrim grey, To bless the turf that wraps their clay, And memory shall awhile repair To-dwell a weeping hermit there." Cumberland Head, is a peninsula extending two or three miles into the lake, opposite the village of Platts- burgh, forming Cumberland Bay, into which empties the Saranac river. Crab, or Hospital Island, lies 2 miles south, and near the track of the steamers on their way to and from the landing at Plattsburgh. It was on a line near- ly north and south between Cumberland Head and Crab Island, that the British and American fleets encountered each other, on the 11th of September, 1814, a day which brought so much honor to the American flag. South Hero, and North Hero, are the names of two Islands belonging to the jurisdiction of Vermont. The former is connected by a ferry, on the west side with Cumberland Head, and on the east side with the main shore of Vermont. 120 TOTJR TO CANADA, ETC. Chazy Landing, 16 miles north of Plattsburgh, is a convenient steamboat landing, on the west side of Lake Champlain. Isle au Mott, opposite the above landing, is a fine island, also attached to Vermont. It is 6 miles long and 2 miles vride, containing much good land, and a valuable quarry of marble. The town of Alburg, Vt. is a triangular body of land, projecting from Canada into Lake Champlain, by which it is surrounded, excepting on the Canada side. On the eastern shore lies the village of Alhurg, a port of entry, and a few miles north is Alburg Springs, where is a small settlement, and mineral spring of considerable etficacy in scrofula and other cases. MissisQui Bat, still further northeast, is a large body of water lying mostly in Canada, or north of the 45th de- gree of north latitude. The village of Rouse's Point, in the town of Cham- plain, 25 miles north of Plattsburgh, and 132 miles from Whitehall, is situated on the west side of Lake Cham- plain, about one mile south of the Canada line, and has a convenient steamboat landing. It is surrounded in part by a level and fertile region, which extends west to the St. Lawrence river. One mile north of the village is a military position commanding the navigable channel of the lake. In 1815, the government of the United States commenced the construction of a strong fortress at Rouse's Pointj but on running out the boundary line between the United States and Canada, under the treaty of Ghent, this point was found to be north of the 45th degree of north latitude, and the works were suspended. By the treaty of Washington, concluded in 1842, the boundary was so adjusted, however, as to give this point to the United States. The suspended works are in a very dilapi- TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 121 dated condition, and serves at present only as a land-mark to indicate the line of division between two national juris- dictions. At the Line, the lake, which, a little south, is 3 miles acrossj narrows to about a mile in width. On the castj as the steamer passes into the Canadian waters, may be seen a long line of road cut through a forest : this marks the boundaries between Canada and the United States. Ash Island, 4 miles north of Rouse's Point, is consi- sidered the foot of Lake Champlain. Here the Richelieu, or St. John's river, as the outlet of Lake Champlain is called, is about half a mile wide. The land on both sides of the stream seems almost level with the water, and presents this low and flat surface for many miles. Isle atjx Noix, situated in the Richelieu river, 12 miles north of Rouse's Point, is the first steamboat land- ing after entering Canada. Here is a strong fortification occupied by British troops, and commanding the channel of the river. The American steamer is compelled to land at this place to take on board a custom house oflicer, and to show their permit as it returns. On the arrival of the boat at St. John's, being as far as the river is naviga- ble for steamboats; the baggage of the passengers is subject to the inspection of custom house officers, before being removed on shore; a duty being levied on such arti- cles as are not allowed to enter free. St. John's, or I>orchester, 157 miles from Whitehall, is advantageously situated on the west side of the Riche- lieu river, abridge connecting it with the village of St, Anthanaise on the opposite shore. It is 23 miles north of the American line, 24 miles southeast of Montreal, and contains about 2000 inhabitants, 250 dwelling houses, a custom house and barracks for soldiers, 1 Episcopal, 1 I 122 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. Roman Catholic, and 1 Methodist church; 10 hotels and taverns, of which Mann's, Morehouse's, and Mrs. Wat- son's are the most noted; 9 stores and 2 forwarding houses, 2 tanneries and a number of mechanics' shops of different kinds. The Chambly Canal, extends from St. Sohn'sto Cham- bly, on the north west side of the Richelieu river, a dis- tance of 12 miles. It was completed in 1843, at a cost of about $400,000. There are nine locks on this canal 120 feet long, 24 feet wide and 6 feet deep; lift 10 feet each, making a total descent of 90 feet in 12 miles. This canal was constructed by the Provincial govern- ment. It affords navigation for vessels of 100 tons burden between Lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence river, thus furnishing an uninterrupted water communication from New- York to Quebec, The Champlain and St. Lawrence Railroad extend- ing from St. John's to La Prairie on the St. Lawrence, a a distance of 15 miles, belongs to a joint stock company. It was completed in 1826, at a cost of $200,000 including depot buildings, locomotives, cars, &c. The road runs over a level section of country, and was constructed at a less sum than the estimated cost. The usual fare from St. John's to Montreal, is one dollar in first class cars; fifty cents in second class cars. ' At La Prairie, a convenient steam ferryboat conveys passengers to Montreal, a distance of 9 miles. The aspect of the St. Lawrence is truly grand and in- teresting, as you approach it on the south from St John's. Towards the west is seen the Lachine rapids, one of the most dangerous on the river. Opposite Montreal it is 3 miles wide, embosoming the beautiful island of St. He- len, which is fortified and garrisoned by British troops. TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 123 As you approach Montreal by water, the city, ship- ping, and wharves are seen to great advantage. The lat- ter — the wharves — ^probably exceed any thing of the kind in America, consisting of a range of massive and solid masonry extending along the river for upwards of a mile, *jt* For a description of Montreal, and other places in Canada, see the Tour through Canada in the -«' Picturesque Tourist," TABLE OF DISTANCES BETWEEN ALBANY AND MONTREAL, BY THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE, PLACES. Albany, Troy, , Whitehall, . , . Ticonderoga, Burlington, Plattsburgh,, . . . . . Rouse's Point, . . . . , St. John's, Canada, Montreal, Place to place. 6 66 24 58 25 25 24 24 From Albany. 6 72 96 154 179 204 228 252 From Montreal. 252 246 180 156 98 73 48 24 124 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC, BY Water. To Verennes, . » 15 Miles. Williayn Henry,. 30 45 " Lake St. Peter, 8 53 " St. Francis, 30 83 " Three Rivers, 7 90 '' St. Anne, 25 1.55 " Richelieu Rapids, ^ 20 135 " Cape Sante, 15 150 '^ Cape Rouge, • 22 178 '^ Quebec...... 8 180 "• TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM MONTREAL TO KINGSTON. To Lachine, by stage 9 Miles.. CsLScsLdes, by sieajnboat, 24 33 " Coteau du Lac, 6i^ s^fage, 16 49 " Cornwall, by steamboat, ......... 41 90 *' Dickinson's Landing, by canal, .... 12 102 " OgdensburghjOrPrescott, s/eaw6oaf, 38 140 " Brockville, do. 12 152 " Kingston,, do. 60 212 " From Kingston to Toronto, by steamboat^ 1^0 miles. To Niagara Falls, by Steamboat and Railroadj^ 50 miles further. Total distance from Montreal to Niagara Fall^^ 442 miles. WESTERN TOUR. ROUTES FROM ALBANY AND TROY TO BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS. The first link of the great chain of railroads connect- ing the navigable waters of the Hudson with Lake Erie, is the Mohawk and Hudson Railroad. It was one of the first constructed railroads in this state, the company hav- ing been chartered in 1826. It extends from Albany to Schenectady, 16 miles, and passes over a tract of sandy land, covered nearly the whole distance with a thick growth of stunted pines. Though at present barren and uninviting, this district is capable of being rendered fruit- ful and beautiful by judicious tillagej and at no extraor- dinary cost. The sand is everywhere underlaid, general- ly at no great depth, with clay; and at the bottoms of the ravines and basins, or rather bowls, with which the whole tract abounds ; are rich deposits of muck and a marly clay, which could be mixed with the sand at about as little cost as equal quantities of other manures, and would furnish precisely those ingredients which are now mostly deficient in the general soil. The few farms which skirt this tract, are encouraging evidences of what the whole could be rendered, and if so rendered, there are few districts more beautiful than this would be. Its surface is agreeably varied, and from its general elevation, it commands a wide horizon, with distant prospects of universal beauty. The Schenectady and Troy Railroad, which has re- cently been put in operation, extends from the city of Troy to the city of Schenectady^ on a line of 20 miles in 126 WESTERW TOUR. length, and making with the other road, two lines of travel diverging from the tide waters of the Hudson, in addi- tion to the Erie Canal. This road from Troy inclines to the north, running parallel with the Mohawk river, and, is remarkable for the variety and beauty of its scenery. The City or Schenectady is handsomely situated on the south bank of the Mohawk, at the true com- mencement of the celebrated valley of that river. This is an ancient place, having been settled as early as 1620, by the Dutch, many of whose living descendents reside in the dwellings of their ancestors, and retain many of their primitive habits. This place was called by the Indians Schagh-nac-taa-da; signifying in their language, '' beyond the pine plains.^' During the old French and Indian wars, Feb. 9, 1690, it was taken by surprise in the dead of night, was sacked and burnt by the Indians; a great number of its inhabitants were massacred, and others carried away into captivity. It was chartered as a city in 1798; and in 1840, contained 6,784 inhabitants. Few inland towns present a more thronged thoroughfare than Schenectady. In addition to the Erie Canal, which passes through the centre of the city, here diverge four important railroads. Besides those already mentioned, there are the Saratoga and Schenectady Railroad, run- ning to Ballston Spa and to Saratoga Springs, 2H miles; and the Utica and Schenectady Railroad, running to Utica, 78 miles, and traversing the rich valley of the Mohawk, parallel with the river and the Erie Canal. The public building, dwellings, and stores in Schenec- tady, present a plain appearance, perfectly in keeping with the general character of the place. There are seve- ral well kept hotels, affording every desirable accommo- dation for the traveller, if inclined to tarry for business or pleasure. The place derives its most extended cele- WESTERN TOUR. 127 brily from being the seat of Union College, situated on the elevated ground about half a mile east of the com- pact part of the city. This institution was incorporated in 1795, and derived its name from the fact that its foun- ders w^ere members of different denominations, and prof- fered its advantages indiscriminately to the followers of every faith. The buildings consist of one stone and two brick edifices, containing accommodations for the president and professors and their families^ 2 cha,pels, lecture and library roomSj 4 halls lor the meeting of literary socie- ties, and dormitories for students, of whom there are usually from 200 to 300, from every section of the coun- try. Attached to the institution, are about 250 acres of land, appropriated in part to groves for recreation and health. These are distingushed for beauty of feature and situation, and present great capability for improve- ment. The annual commencement takes place on the fourth Wednesday of July, after which there is a vaca- tion of six weeks. In addition to railroad cars, commodious Canal Packet Boats, run daily during the opening of the canal, be- tween Schenectady and Utica, adistauce by this route of 80 miles, affording a cheap and comfortable mode of conveyance. On leaving Schenectady for Saratoga Springs, and for Utica, the railroad tracks cross the Erie canal and Mo- hawk river by substantial bridges. If bound for the Springs, you proceed northward through an interesting region, passing on the way the village of Ballston Spa, an old and celebrated place of resort, and the terminus of the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad, which comes up from Troy. If bound to the west, your route is on the north side of the Mohawk, and your first halt is at the village of 123 WESTEKJr TOUR. Amsterdam, 15 miles from Schenectady, and cobu nected by a toll-bridge with Port Jackson on the oppcK side of the river. Amsterdam contains about 1,700 inha> tants, and in the immediate vicinity are annually quarried large quantities of a fine quality of limestone, much used for the construction of locks and other public worksv Stages leave Amsterdam daily for the Fish House, on the Sacondaga river, and for other places to the north in Fulton county. One or two miles west of Amsterdam, on the line of the railroad, are situated two of the old stone mansions of the Johnson family, who figured large- ly in the early history of this part of the country. Schoharie Creek, a fine stream descending from the high lands away to the south, and towards the head wa- ters of the Delaware, enters the Mohawk in the midst of a broad tract of rich alluvial land, at the distance of 22 miles from Schenectady. On a sort of natural bastion in the angle between the creek and the river, once stood Fort Hnnter, famous in old colonial times, in the transactions between the Indians and the white men, and its remains are still traceable. Fonda, a pleasant village of recent date, and the coun- ty seat of Montgomery county, is 42 miles by railroad from Albany. It stands on the north side of the Mo- hawk, and opposite the village of Fultonville, on the Erie canal. Johnstown, the county seat of Fulton county, lies 4 miles north of the Mohawk river, and 45 miles from Al- bany. This is an old and interesting place, containing about 1,000 inhabitants. It was originally founded by Sir William Johnson, whose residence, built of lime- stone, is still standing about one mile west of the village. A daily line of stages runs from Johnstown to Fonda WESTfiRJr fOUR. 129 connecting with the cars on the Utica and Schenectady Raibroad. To the north of Johnstown and some 30 miles distant; lies the county of Hamilton, being for the most part an unsettled wilderness of great extent. This region of country abounds with lakes and streams richly stored with trout and other fish of fine flavor, the most fre- quented resorts are Lake Pleasant and Lake Piseco, and the creeks and rivers in their neighborhood. Spraker's Basin, on the line of the Erie canal is 36 miles from Schenectady. Here is located a thriving settle- ment, containing a church and some 20 or 30 dwellings. _ Palatine Bridge, 54 miles from Albany, connects with the village of Canajoharie, on the south bank of the Mohawk river, and the proposed terminus of the Catskill and Canajoharie Railroad, a distance of 78 miles from the Hudson river at Catskill, by this route, Canajoharie was incorporated in 1829, and now contains about 1,300 inhabitants. The Erie canal passes through the centre of the village. Stages leave this place daily, during the summer season, for Sharon Sulphur Springs and Cooperstown. Sharon Springs, some 10 or 12 miles south of Cana- joharie, and 45 miles west of Albany, via the Cherry- VaUey turnpike, has become a place of considerable re- sort for health or pleasure. The Pavilion is a large and weU kept public house, afibrding a view, said to be equal to that of the Catskill Mountain House. The rides in the vicinity, the numerous villages, extensive views, neighboring caves and romantic scenery, together with the delightful fishing in Otsego Lake, are among the many attractions offered to those seeking in the heat of summer either health or pleasure. 130 WESTERN TOUK. Added to these advantages, the pure clear waters of these springs, greatly resembling those of the White Sulphur Springs of Virginia, have been proved to be highly effi. cacious in Rheumatic, Cutaneous, and Dyspeptic com- plaints, and in some respects possess medicinal and heal- ing properties unsurpassed, and believed to be unequalled in the United States. From a certificate of a recent analysis made for the proprietor of these Springs by one of the most eminent chemists in this country, (Dr. Chilton of New- York,) the following results have been obtained from one gallon of the water: Grains. Sulphate of Magnesia, 42.40 Sulphate of Lime, 111.62 Chloride of Sodium, 2-24 Chloride of Magnesium, 2 . 40 Hydrosulphuret of Sodium, ^ Hydrosulphuret of Calcium, > 2.28 Vegetable extractive matter, ) Totalgrains, 160.94 Sulphuretted Hydrogen Gas, , 16 cubic inches. CooPERSTowN, although off from the great line of travel, east and west, is well worthy of a visit. It is 66 miles west of the city of Albany, by stage route, and most delightfully situated on a plain at the outlet of Otsego Lake, this being the chief source of the Susquehanna river. No inland village in the Union, probably excels Cooperstown in elegance of situation and beauty of sur- rounding scenery. Otsego Lake in the immediate vicini- ty, is a most beautiful sheet of water, abounding in trout and bass, celebrated for their peculiar flavor. Richfield Springs, 69 miles from Albany, is situated near the head of Canaderaga lake. Here is a celebrated sulphur spring, which is much resorted to by invalids, aad is noted for the cure of cutaneous disorders. WJESTEJRN TOUR. 131 Fort Plain, 57 miles from Albany by railroad route, oa the south side of the Mohawk river^ is situated on the line of the Erie canalj it was incorporated in 1834, and now contains about 1,400 inhabitants. A daily line of stages run from this place to Cherry-Valley, Coopers- town, and Sharon Springs in Schoharie county. Palatine Church, 60 miles from Albany, is sur- rounded by a small settlement. Saint Johnsville, 63 miles from Albany and 31 from Utica, is situated on the north side of the Mohawk, on the line of the Utica and Schenectady Railroad; it contains about 300 inhabitants. East Canada Creek, enters the Mohawk river 3 miles west of St. Johnsville. This stream for a consi- derable distance forms the boundary line between the counties of Montgomery and Herkimer. Lillle Falls, Herkimer county, is situated on both sides of the Mohawk, 73 miles west of the city of Alba- ny. It was first incorporated in 1811, and amended in 1827; it now contains about 2,500 inhabitants, 300 dwel- ling houses, 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist, and 1 Roman Catholic church ; a large and beautiful academy building, a banking house, 5 hotels, and taverns, 30 stores and groceries, 2 printing offices, together with almost every other kind of mechanic work shops; and the village is rapidly improving in population and business. The Mohawk river here falls, in the dis- tance of half a mile, about 42 feet affording hydraulic power to a large extent, only a small portion of which is at present occupied for manufacturing purposes. There are now erected and in operation, 1 extensive woollen fac- tory, with new and improved machinery, 3 paper mills, 3 flouring mills, 2 saw mills, 1 plaster mill, 1 trip ham- 132 WESTERN TOtTR. mer works, 4 furnaces, 1 machine shop, 1 distillery, 1 brewery, 1 sash factory, and 1 fulling mill. This place and vicinity is justly celebrated for its wild and romantic scenery, and is much resorted to by the admirers of nature and art. The gap between the moun> tains, through which the river has apparently worn for itself a passage, though confined, is still of breadth sufficient to afford room for a large town. The rock at the river bed is primitive granitic gneiss, very hard but is readily quarried and broken into building stone. Above this, on the mountain sides, lies the sand rock, and still higher, at the top, are extensive beds of blue limestone; great quantities of which have been used in constructing the locks, and for building, for coping, and for flagging. Through this gorge passes the Erie canal, on the south side of the river; and the Utica and Schenectady Railroad and the Mohawk turnpike on the north. It is the gate- way through which the product and travel of the vast west must of necessity pass to tide -v^ter. An aqueduct crosses the Mohawk at this place, communicating with a feeder on the north side of the river, and is a fine specimen of masonry. A daily line of stages runs between Little Falls and Trenton Falls, and several mail routes north and south branch off at this place. West Canada Ckeek, enters the Mohawk river, 5 miles west of Little Falls. Its whole length is about 60 miles from its sources, in the wilds of Hamilton county. It is a romantic and lovely stream, and abounds with fine trout. About 20 miles from its mouth are situated Tren- ton Falls, being on the border of the town of the same name in Oneida county. The village of Herkimer, 79 miles from Albany, is handsomely situated in the valley of the Mohawk on the north side of the river. It was incorporated in 1807, and WESTERN TOUR. 133 now contains about 800 inhabitants, 120 dwelling houses, a new brick court-house, and stone jail, built on an im- proved model, combining security and comfort to the prisoners ; a fire- proof clerk's office ; an incorporated academy in a flourishing condition ; 1 banking house I 1 German Reformed, and 1 Methodist church; 6 hotels and taverns; 10 stores and groceries, and I printing office. Here is a flouring mill containing four run of stone, situ- ated on a hydraulic canal, which is fed by the waters of the West Canada creek; it is about three miles in length and has two falls, one of 22 feet, and another of 15 feet, aflfording water power sufficient to propel upwards of 100 run of stone, most of which is still unoccupied, and is one of the most durable and available water powers in the state. The village of Mohawk, situated on the south side of the river, one mile west of Herkimer, is a thriving place of business, through which passes the Erie canal. The village of Frankfort, 9 miles east of Utiea, is also situated on the line of the Erie canal, and contains about 500 inhabitants. The City of Utica, situated on the south side of the Mohawk river, is on the site of old Fort Schuyler, 93 miles west of the city of Albany. It was chartered ia 1832, and is now divided into four wards, and governed by a common council, consisting of a mayor and 12 alder- men. In 1840, it contained 12,810 inhabitants, about 1,600 dwelling houses, 3 Presbyterian churches, 1 Re- formed Dutch, 2 Episcopal, 4 Baptist, 3 Methodist, 2 Catholic, 1 Universalist, and 1 African church, and 1 Friends meeting house ; 1 Protestant and 1 Catholic orphan asylum ; 1 public marl et, 4 banking houses and 1 saving's bank ; 1 mutual insurance company; 2 incorpo- rated academies, one for males and the other for females; 134 WESTERN TOUR. a museum located in the Exchange building; 1 public garden; 15 hotels and taverns, besides several extensive private boarding houses. The July term of the supreme court of the state, the several terms of the vice-chancel- lor's court for the fifth circuit, one term of the United States district court for the northern district of the state of New-York, and one term of the circuit court for the county of Oneida, are holden in Utica. The office of one of the clerk's of the supreme court, that of the clerk in chancery for the fifth circuit, of the clerk of the United States court, and of the clerk of the county of Oneida, are located in this city. The New- York State Lunatic ./2s?/ZMm,situated on some- what elevated ground, about one mile west of the centre of Utica, is a noble and imposing structure. The finished building can accommodate upwards of 200 patients . T hi s humane establishment is calculated for the. reception of all insane persons in the state, whose friends or county authorities may apply in their behalf. "The probable ex- penditure of the state, will be above half a million of dollars^ to complete the design of the four buildings, as contemplated by the commissioners appointed by the state authorities. There were, according to the census of 1840, 3,973 lunatics in the state. In addition to the Erie canal which passes through the centre of the city, the Chenango canal commences at this place, and terminates at Binghamton, in Broome county; the Utica and Schenectady Railroad and the S}Ta- cuse and Utica Railroad unite at this point, forming two of the principal links in the great chain of railroads, which are completed between the cities of Boston, Al- bany and Bulfalo. WESTERN TOUR. 135 The city of Utica is surrounded by one of the finest and richest agricultural and manufacturing districts in the Union, and is a wealthy and flourishing place of business. The Erie canal through the city has been widened to 70 and deepened to 7 feet, and presents a fine appearance from the several beautiful and well constructed bridges which span its breadth. Before the canal was widened, the several bridges were miserable looking structures, so low that boats could but just pass beneath. But now they are raised some six feet higher than formerly, and are really ornaments to the city. The principal hotels in Utica are chiefly situated on Genesee- street, of which the following are the most noted ,• Bagg's Hotel or Bleecker House ; American Hotel; Franklin House ; National Temperance House, and the McGregor House on Whitesboro'-street. Several daily lines of stages run from Utica, north and south. The following are the arrangements for 1844, or during the summ.er months : 1. An accommodation coach leaves Utica daily, (Sun- day's excepted,) at'' 8 o'clock, A. M. for Denmark, 62 miles north, where passengers can remain over night and take a stage next morning for Watertown and Sackett's Harbor, or for Ogdensburgh. 2. The U. S. mail coach leaves daily at H P. M. or on the arrival of the cars from Albany, and proceeds directly through to Watertown and Sackett's Harbor, and via Den- mark to Ogdensburgh. 3. A stage leaves at l^P. M. for Binghamton, 94 miles, and connects with stages running to Owego and Mon- trose, Pennsylvania. 4. A stage leaves daily, (Sunday's excepted,) at 8 A.M., for Hamilton, connecting with a canal packet boat for Binghamton. 5. A stage leaves daily for Cooperstown, 44 miles. 136 WESTERN TOUR. 6. A stage leaves every Monday, Wednesday and Fri- day, at U P. M. for Ithaca, 96 miles. 7. A stage leaves daily, (Sundays excepted,) at 8 A. M. for New Berlin, and connecting with a stage running to Mt. Pleasant, Pennsylvania, 8. A stage leaves daily, (Sundays excepted,) at 1:|P. M. for Augusta, via Clinton, Extras can at all times be obtained by those who wish to visit Trenton Falls, or any of the places off the regu- lar stage routes. Trenton Falls, 18 miles northeast from Utica, and on the West Canada creek, in the town of Trenton, are among the most remarkable scenes in our country. The wild, secluded, and primeval aspect of the place serves greatly to heighten the effect of the striking spectacle pre- sented by the stream j and the whole is so deeply embo- somed in the primitive forest that no token of the long and deep gorge through which the waters rush, is visible till you are on its very brink. Within a distance of about 2 miles there are no less than six distinct cascades, inter- changing with rapids as picturesque as the fallsithem- selves. The first fall, beginning up stream, is called the Upper Falls, and has a descent of about 20 feet. The river then dashes along its rocky bed about a mile, with a des- cent, in that distance, of about 20 feet more, to the second falls, called The Cascades. A little further down you come to the third fall, called the Mill-dam, from theregu- larity and smoothness of the ledge of rock, about 20 feet high, over which the waters pour. About 40 rods more, bring you to the High Falls. At this place the volume of the stream is separated, by rifts in the rock, into three distinct cataracts, having a perpendicular pitch of more than 100 feet. Here the chasm has become very deep, WESTERN TOUR. 137 and the high wooded banks and cliffs of bare rock on each side combine with the cataracts to make a spectacle of wild and savage grandeur. About 70 rods further down you come to the fifth, or Sherman's Falls, having a descent of nearly 40 feet, from the foot of which the stream pours along a less rapidly descending bed to the sixth, or Conrad's Falls, a pitch of some 15 or 20 feet, and soon after, the river, escaping from the deep and dark ravine, flows onward between more sunny banks and through a softer landscape. The chasm for the whole distance, is cut through a vast mass of lime-rock, which abounds with organic re- mains ; and the path which the tourist must take, if he would obtain any adequate conceptions of the scene, is along a narrow shelf of rock near the foot of the high and in some places overhanging precipice, and on the immediate verge of rushing waters. This shelf is so narrow in several places, and so perilous, that it has been found necessary to guard it with a chain supported by iron standards let into the rock j though sad to say, this safe-guard was not furnished, till two inter- esting young females had been lost in the terrible flood. The entire descent of the stream, from the top of the Upper Falls to the foot of Conrad's Falls, is stated at 312 feet. The village of Whitesborough, 3| miles westof IJtica, is situated on the south side of the Mohawk river. This is one of the oldest white settlements in this section of country, and has long been celebrated as a pleasant and attractive place of residence, being surrounded by fertile lands settled by an intelligent and wealthy communi- ty. It was incorporated in 1813, and now contains about 1,800 inhabitants, many of whom are engaged in manu- facturing pursuits ,• and it embraces within its corporate K 138 WESTERN TOUR. limits, a settlement called Yorkville, located on Sada- quada creek, one of the most valuable mill streams in the state. Oriskany, 7 miles west of Utica, is a large manufac- turing place, situated on the Oriskany creek, near its junction with the Mohawk river. It contains about 1,200 inhabitants, 200 dwelling houses, 2 churches, 4 public houses, 4 stores, and 2 large factory buildings, belonging to the " Oriskany Manufacturing Company," which an- nually manufacture into broad cloths and cassimeres about 200,000 pounds of wool, giving employment to about 150 men, women and children. The buildings, grounds and machinery of this establishment cost $200,000. It was here that the battle of Oriskany was fought, one of the bloodiest, in proportion to the numbers engaged, during the whole war of our Revolution, and in which Gen. Herkimer, of German Flats, lost his life. He was on his way with about 800 of the militia of the Mohawk Valley, to the relief of the garrison at Fort Stanwix, when at Oriskany, a deadly fire was opened on him and his corps, by a body of British regulars, tories, and Indians, from an ambuscade in a narrow ravine. The Americans were completely surrounded, but the gallant Herkimer and his brave compatriots maintained the fight for near six hours. Herkimer received his mortal wounds early in the fight, but he kept the field, seated on his saddle placed on a hillock, which gave him a view of the con- test, and from which he calmlj'- issued his orders to the last. This was on the 6th of August, 1777. The village of Rome, 14 miles west of Utica, is situa- near the head waters of the Mohawk, and on the line of the Erie canal, where it is intersected by the Black River Canal Feeder. It was incorporated in 1819, and is a half-shire town with Whitesboro' for Oneida county ; it WESTERN TOUR. 130 'contains about 2,500 inhabitants, 350 dwelling houses ; a court-house and jail; 6 churches^ 1 bank, 25 stores, be* sides 1 cotton factory, 1 ftaiiring mill, 1 saw mill, 1 brew* '«ry and 1 blast furnace. Here is located a United States arsenal ; and a number of work shops. This place stands on the site of old Fort Stanwix, which was an important military post during the Revolutionary and French wars. Owing to its natural and artificial advantages, this village is fast increasing in wealth and numbers. Oneida Depot, 27 miles west of Utica, and 26 from Syracuse, is a new settlement where the train of passen- ger cars usually stops some 10 or 15 minutes. One or two miles south of the depot is tlie incorporated village of Oneida Castle, near which resides a remnant of the -Oneida tribe of Indians numbering about 300 souls. Wampsville, 3 miles further west, is a small settle- ment through which passes the Syracuse and Utica rail- road, Canastota, 32 2 west of Utica by railroad, and on the Erie canal, was incorporated in 1835, and now contains about 800 inhabitants. Chittenango, 39 miles west of Utica, by railroad, is situated one mile south of the Erie canal, with which it is connected by a side-cut. It contains about 1,000 inhabitants, 180 dwelling houses, 3 churches, 3 taverns, 10 stores, 1 woollen factory, 1 flouring mill, and 2 large factories for the manufacture of water lime, which is found in this vicinity and is extensively used on the different public works of the state and for ether purposes. There is a sulphur spring one mile south of the village of Chittenango, of which the fol- lowing is an analysis, by Dr. Lewis C. Beck. Temperature 49^ F.; specific gravity 1.00341. 140 WESTERN TOUR. The following is the composition of a pint of the water : Grains. Carbonate of lime, 0.88 Sulphate of Soda, 1 . 66 Sulphate of lime and magnesia, 12.75 Chloride of Sodium, 0. 14 Organic matter, traces. Total, 15.43 Besides sulphuretted hydrogen, the water contains a small portion of carbonic acid gas. The village of Cazenovia, is situated on the Cherry- Valley turnpike, about 10 miles south of the Erie canal, 118 miles from Albany. It was incorporated in 1810, and now contains about 1,600 inhabitants, 250 dwelling houses, and 4 churches of different denominations. Here is situated the Oneida Seminary, a theological institution sustained by the Methodist denomination of this and the neighboring states. Cazenovia Lake, is a small but beautiful sheet of water, in the town of the same name. It is 4 miles long by 1 mile in width, abounding in different kinds of fish. The village of Manlius, a few miles south of the Erie canal, is a thriving place. Manlius Centre is on the Erie canal, near the line of the Syracuse and Utica rail- road. Syracuse, 53 miles west of Utica, and 146 from Albany by railroad route, is situated on the line of the Erie canal, where it unites with the Oswego canal, one mile and a half south of Onondaga lake. It was incorporated in 1825, and now contains about 7,500 inhabitants, 900 dwelling houses, 8 churches of different denominations, 10 hotels and taverns, and an incorporated academy, 2 banking houses a court-house and jail and county clerk's office. WESTERN TOUR. 141 Syracuse and its vicinity,, is celebrated for the immense quantity of salt which is annually made from the brine springs belonging to the state. No town in Western New- York, is no more rapidly increasing in wealth and numbers than this place. The traveller on going west from Sja-acuse to Roches- ter, has the choice of three modes of conveyance, viz: either by railroad, 105 miles, by canal packet, distance 99 miles ; or by canal packet to Oswego and thence by steamboat to the mouth of the Genesee river, distance 104 miles. In addition to the Erie canal, which passes through the centre of Syracuse, the Oswego canal commences at this point and terminates at the village of Oswego, connect- ing the Erie canal with Lake Ontario. The Syracuse and Utica and Auburn and Syracuse Railroads, unite in this place, opening a direct communication east and v/est, and a channel of trade with all the places on Lake Onta- rio and Canada. Geddes is an incorporated village 2 miles west of Syra- cuse, on the Erie canal, and within the bounds of the Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation. The most consider- able business of the place is the manufacture of salt. The village of Salina, in the town of the same name, is situated near the east end of Onondaga lake, 2 miles north of Syracuse. It was incorporated in 1824, and now contains about 2,600 inhabitants. Salina has long been celebrated for its valuable saline springs. Here are now yearly manufactured large quantities of fine salt, which finds a ready market in this and the western states, and Canada. Liverpool is another village principally engaged in the manufacture of salt. It stands near the northeasts 142 WESTERN T0I7R. erly shore of Onondaga lake, and on the Oswego canal', about 5 miles from Syracuse. It contains about 1,000 inhabitants. Syracuse', Salina, Liverpool, and Geddes, are all inclu- ded in the town of Salina and within the limits of the Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation; and though the original Reservation included a much larger extent of ^urface than is occupied by these villages, yet these are the only portions of it within which the making of salt is carried on ; the state having sold to private citizens the whole of the Reservation not included within these vil- lages, as well as a very large part of what is included within their bounds. Salt was first made on this tract at Salt Point, near the margin of Onondaga lake and within the bounds of Sa- lina village. The manufacture, in very trifling quanti- ties, at that point, was carried on by the Indians prior to the appearance of any white man among them, as it was by the white men also, at a very early period of their settlement in that vicinity. The earliest systematic ar- rangments, so far as records show, for making salt, to any important extent, at that place, date as far back as 1787, when works were erected which produced 10 bush- els daily — a very insignificant quantity when compared with the present extent and productiveness of the works on the Reservation. The total quantities made in the several villages men- tioned, and the aggregate during the year 1843, is shown in the following statement made up from the last annual report of the State Superintendent and Inspector to the Legislature pursuant to law. WESTERN TOUR. 143 Total quantity of salt, fine and coarse, inspected on the Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation, in the year 1843. Place. BTzshels. Salina, 1,203,138.00 Syracuse, 973,821.32 Liverpool, 675,206.18 Geddes, 275,334. 55 Aggregate, 3,127,500. 05 Of this aggregate, 2,732,863.43 bushels were of the kind called ^ne salt ; 318,105.34 bushels were of coarse salt; and 76,531.28 bushels were of the description called cZairy salt. The^^ne salt, which is so called from the small size of its crystals, is produced by the agency chiefly of artificial heat, and the process of evaporation is carried on by boiling the brine in large iron kettles. The coarse salt is produced exclusively by evaporation in the open air. It is sometimes termed solar salt, and the crystals are large. This salt is the purest muriate of soda known to com- merce. The dairy salt is so called from the particularly neat and convenient manner in which it is prepared and boxed for use in dairies. The state of New- York, as the proprietor of these salines, receives a duty of six cents a bushels on all the salt inspected on the Reservation; and the works are erected under written leases of the ground for specific terms of years, for making the fine salt ; and under li- censes somewhat of the character of conditional grants, for making the coarse salt ; but both are gratuitous, the duty being substituted for rent. 144 WESTERN TOUR. The village of Oswego, 38 miles north of Syracuse, hy canal route, is situated on both sides of the Oswego river, at its entrance into Lake Ontario. It is a port of entry, was incorporated in 1828, and now contains about 4,500 inhabitants, 500 dwelling houses, 2 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist and 1 Catholic church, besides a Bethel congregation, a custom-house, a court- house, 1 banking house, an insurance company, an in- corporated academy and a female seminary. The num- ber of vessels which arrive and depart from this port an- nually is very great,- there being owned at this place alone 6 steainboats and 70 schooners, averaging about 100 tons burthen, besides a large number of canal boats. The harbor is capacious and safe, being protected by two large stone piers, constructed by the United States Go- vernment. On the end of the west pier is situated a light- house ; about half a mile above is a bridge extending across the river, 600 feet in length. An extensive for- warding business is done at this place by means of lake, river and canal navigation ; daily lines of steamboats for the conveyance of passengers run between Oswego, Sackett's Harbor, Kingston, and Ogdensburgb, on the north ; and Rochester, Toronto, and Lewiston, on the west. Connected with the above line of steamboats are railroads cars, canal packet lines and stages. During the winter months daily lines of stages run from Oswego northeast to Sackett's Harbor, Watertown and Ogdens- burgb, east to Rome and Utica, south to Syracuse, south- west to Auburn, and west to Rochester. At Oswego there are several well kept public houses. The Oswego House, on the east side of the river, and the United States Hotel, and the Welland House, on the west side, are the most frequented by pleasure travellers. The promonotory on the east side of the Oswego river, at its mouth, has been ceded to (he United States Govern- WESTERN TOUR. 145 raent, and on it is situated old Fort Ontario, which has recently undergone extensive repairs, affording protection to the harbor and village of Osv^ego, A w^riter makes the following remarks in relation to this important mili- tary position : — •' This ancient work is within the pre- cints of our village, situated on the right bank of the Oswego river at the point of confluence with Lake Ontario. It was one of the old northwestern posts, the continued occupation ot which by the British, after the peace of '83, caused so much indignation on the part of the Govern- ment and the people of the United States, during the period of the "Washington administration. It was evacu- ated by Col. Grant, in 1795. The works, including the glacis and outposts, were extensive, and very considera- ble remains of them exist. Old Fort Oswego, which was situated on the left bank of the river, immediately opposite, is completely levelled and occupied by ware- houses and manufactories, a ship yard and marine rail- way. It is a matter of much satisfaction that the care of the Government is at last extended to Fort Ontario. In connexion with the navigation of Lake Ontario and the communications with the interior of the state and the Hudson river, it is probably the most important military position on the northern frontier." Sackett's Harbor, about 50 miles north of Oswego, and distant 35 miles from Kingston, Canada; possesses one of the best and most secure harbors on Lake Onta- rio, being situated on Black River Bay , 12 miles below the village of Watertown. It was an important naval and military station during the last war with Great Bri- tain, where now lays a large vessel under cover. Madi- son Barracks, garrisoned by United States troops, is handsomely situated near the landing, being in full view from the water. 146 WESTERN TOUR. The village was incorporated in 1814, and now con- tains about 2,000 inhabitants. An hydraulic canal ex- tends from Black river near Watertown, to this place, on which are erected several mills and manufacturing estab- lishments. Watertown, is advantageously situated on the south side of Black river, a few miles above its entrance into Black river bay. The water power of this place is very great, and there is now a large amount of capital invest- ed in mills and in diiferent kinds of manufacturing estab- lishments, where hydraulic power is used. The village was incorporated in 1831, and now contains about 4,000 inhabitants ; a court-house and jail ; a state arsenal ; 7 churches ; 3 banking houses ; 8 hotels and taverns, and 50 or 60 stores of different kinds. Stages leave Water- town daily for Utica, 82 miles distant. Lake Ontario, the most eastern of the great chain of Lakes of North America, is 180 miles in length, and 60 miles in extreme breadth ; being about 485 miles in cir- cumference. The boundary line between the British Pos- sessions and the United States runs through the middle of the lake and so continues down the St. Lawrence to the 45th degree of north latitude, where the river enters Canada. This lake is navigable throughout its whole extent for vessels of the largest size J audit is said to be, in some places upwards of 600 feet in depth. Its surface is eleva- ted 231 feet above the Atlantic, and lies 334 feet lower than Lake Erie, with which it is connected by the Niaga- ra river and by the Welland canal in Canada. It has also been proposed to construct a ship canal on the American side. The trade of Lake Ontario, from the great exten* WESTERN TOUB. 147 of inhabited country surrounding it, is very considerable, and is rapidly increasing. Many sail vessels and spkn- did steamers are employed in navigating its w^aters, which owing to its great depth never freezes, except at the sides, where the water is shallow ; so that its navigation is not so effectually interrupted by ice as some of the other large lakes. The most important places on the Canadian or British side of Lake Ontario^ are Kingston, Coburg, Toronto, Hamilton, and Niagara j on the Ame- rican shor.e, the villages of Sackett's Harbor, Oswe- go, and Charlotte or Port Genesee. This lake is con- nected with the na,vigable waters of the Hudson river, by means of the Oswego and Erie canals. It receives numerous streams^ both from the Canadian and the Ame- rican sides, and abounds with a grent variety of fish of an excellent flavor. The bass and salmon in particular^ have a high reputation and are taken in large quantities. The passage across Lake Ontario in calm weather is most agreeable. At times both shores are hidden from view, when nothing can be seen from the deck of the vessel but an abyss of waters. The refractions which some- times take place in summer, are exceedingly beautiful. Islands and trees appear turned upside down ; and the white surf of the beach, translated aloft, seems like the smoke of artillery blazing away from a fort. The Bay of Quinte, on the north shore, in Canada, is a beautiful- ly winding and picturesque sheet of water. It is navi- gable for about 80 miles, and on its borders, are several flourishing settlements. 148 WESTERN TOUR. SUMMER ARRANGEMENT, FOR 1844. Packet Boats running between Syracuse and Oswego, Distance 38 miles. — Usual time 7 hours. — Fare $1.50. Fare through from Syracuse to Niagara Falls by this route $4.50, (including meals,) by Canal Packet Boat and Steamboat. Packet boat Rochester, Capt. Wm. D. Stewart. " " Liberty. '' Francis Rood. The above boats form two daily lines, leaving both places at 7^ A. M. and 7 P. M.j connecting with steam- boats on Lake Ontario. LAKE ONTARIO ROUTE. Daily Line (Sundays excepted.) between Lewiston and Ogdensburgh. Steamer Lady or the Lake, Capt. J. J. Taylor, " Rochester, " H. N. Throop, '' St. Laavrence, '^ J. Van Cleve, «' Oneida, '' R. F Child, Will run daily, (Sundays excepted,) between Lewiston and Ogdensburgh, touching at the intermediate Canadi- an and American ports, as follows : D0WNWAR,DS. Leave Lewiston, daily, except Saturdays, at 3 P. M. '' Rochester, " " " at 11 P. M. *' Oswego, " except Sundays, at 8 A. M. " Sacketfs Harbor, '' " at 12 M. " Kingston, " '' at 4 P. M. Arriving at Ogdensburgh in the afternoon in time for the daily steamboats for Montreal, which run in connec- tion with this line. UPWARDS. Leave Ogdensburgh, daily, except Sundays, at 8 A. M- ^ ^ ' " a a at 5 P.M. '' '' at 9 P.M. " '' at 11 A.M. '' '' at 6 P.M. ate A. M. Kingston, SacketVs Harbor, Oswego, Rochester, Toronto, u And arrive at Lewiston at 10 o'clock A. M. in time for the cars for Niagara Falls and Buffalo. WESTERNT TUUR. 149 Travellers taking this route west, will have an oppor- tunity to view by daylight Queenston Heights, and Brock's Monument 5 the beautiful scenery of the Niagara, and at its mouth the British and American Forts i on going north from Oswego to Sackett's Harbor, Kingston and Ogdensburgh, affords the interesting view of the St. Lawrence with its Thousand Islands. • LIST OF AMERICAN STEAMBOATS, Built and running on Lake Ontario, since their first introduction in 1816. When . : — . ;_«; built. Name. Tons Wlierc built. Remarks. 1816 Ontario, - - - - 400 Sackett's Hai-bor, Broken up. 1818 Sophia, - - - - 75 u « Broken up. 1823 Martiia Ogden, - 150 (( u Lost in 1832. 1830 Brownville, - - 150 Brownville, - - Ch'ed to Wm. Avery. 1831 Charles Carroll, - 100 Sackett's Harbor, Changed to America- 1831 Paul Pry, - - - 50 Ogdensburgh, - Broken up. 1832 United States, 450 u Laid up. 1833 Black Hawk,' - 200 French Creek, - Laid up. 1834 Oswego, - - - 400 Oswego, - - - Used as a timber ship. 1836 Oneida, - - - - 300 Oswego, - - - Lewistonto Ogdens'h. 1837 Telegi-aph, - - 200 Dexter, - - - Oswego to Kingston. 1838 John Marshall, - 60 Lake Erie, - - Runs fr. S. Harbor. 1839 St. Lawrence," - 450 Oswego, - - - Lewiston to Ogdens'h 1839 Express, - - - 1.50 Poultneyville, Rochester to Kingston 1.S41 Georj^e Clinton, - 100 Oswego, - - . U (C 1.841 President, - - - 60 "... Runs from Oswego. 1842 I.ady oftheLake, 425 " Lewiston to Ogdens'h. 1843 Rochester, - - - 400 u a a ERICSSON PROPELLERS. 1841 Vandalia, - - - 1.50 Oswego, - - - Oswego to Chicago. 1842 Chicago, - - - 150 " - - - a (( 1842 Oswego, - - - 150 « - ^ - u u 1843 1 New- York, - - 150 " - - - li (C ' Now named DolphixY, and owned in Canada. 150 WESTERN TOtJn. LIST OF BRITISH STEAMBOATS, BUILT AND RUNNING OTN LAKE ONTARIO. Wlieu built. 1816 1817 1819 1824 1824 1825 1825 1828 1829 iS30 lasi 1832 1832 1832 1S33 1833 1833 1833 1834 1834 1835 1837 1837 1838 1839 1839 1840 1840 1840 1840 1840 1841 1841 1841 1841 1842 1842 1842 1843 Name. Tons Frontenac, - - - Charlotte, - - - Dalhoasie, - - - Toronto, ^ - - Queenston, - - Canarla, - - - Niagara, - - - Alciope, - - - Sir James Kempt, Great Britain, - - Iroquois, - - - John By, - - - William 4th, - - Tran.?it, - - - - Britannia, - - - Coburg, - - - Kingston, • - - Brockville, - - - Com. Barrie, - - Union, .... St. George, - - - Sir Robert Peel, Gore, .... Queen Victoria, - Henry Gildersleve Oatai'io," - - - Highlander, - - Albion, . - - - America, - - - City of Toronto, Sovereign,! - - Princess Royal, Canada, - - . . Frontenac, - - - Sir Charles, - - Prince of Wales, Admiral, - - - Ch. Jus. Robinson Eclipse, - - - - BRITISH 700 150 350 200 350 250 400 4.50 200 700 100 100 450 350 200 500 200 3.50 275 300 400 350 200 200 250 300 300 200 300 509 475 500 4.50 200 200 200 400 400 400 Where built. Kingston, - - Prescott, - . Toronto, • - Queenston, - Toronto, - . Brockville, Niagara, . . Kingston, . . Prescott, - - u Kingston, - . Gananoque, • Oakville, - . Kingston, - - Coburg, - - Kingston, - - Brockville, - Kingston, - - Oakville, - - Kingston, - . Brockville, - Niagara, - - Kingston, - . Niagara, - - Coteau du Lac, BrockviUe, Niagara, - - Prescott, - Kingston, - Remarks. \iagara, t( Broken up. Broken up. Broken up. Broken up. j Broken up. Broken np. Broken up. Broken up. Broken up. Broken up. Broken up. Broken up. Tow boat. Toronto to LewistoS. Laid up. Laid up. Bay of Quinte. Bay of Quinte. Lost in 1842. Kingston to Hamilton. Laid up. Destroyed in 1838. Cobourg to Rochester. Hamilton to Lewistoii. King'n to Cot. du Lac. King'n to Cot. du Lac Bay of Quinte. Toronto to Rochester, Kingston to Toronto. Kingston to Toronto. Kingston to Toronto. King'n to Cot. du Lac: Bay of Quinte. Toronto to Hamilton. Bay of Quinte. Toronto to Rochester. Toronto to Lewiston. Toronto to Hamilton. GOVERNMENT VESSELS. 18-35 Traveller, - . - 350 Niagara, - - - 1838 Experiment, - - 150 Niagara, - - - 1842 Mohawk, - - - 150 Kingston, . - - Iron vessel. 1842 Cherokee, - - - 700 Kingston, . ' - - 'Now Lord Sj/denham; she was run down tlie rapids of the St. Law- rence by Capt. Hilliard, in 1840, and plies between Quebec and Montreal. t First named Niagara. Note. — In addition to the above list of British steamboats of a large class, tliere are a number of smaller boats and Ericsson Propellers., running from Kingston to Montreal, down the rapids of the St. Law- rence and returning through the Rideau canal, carryij^ an immense amount of produce, merchandise, and passengers. western tour. 151 Route from Syracuse to Buffalo. Camillus, 8 miles west of Syracuse, is situated on the iine of the Auburn and Syracuse Railroad. It contains about 600 inhabitants. The village of Jordan, is situated on the Erie Canal, 19 miles west of Syracuse. It was incorporated in 1835j and now contains about 1,200 inhabitants. A railroad is contemplated from this place to Skaneateles, from which a branch road, already constructed to the Auburn and Syracuse railroad, is a part of the contemplated work. Skaneateles, 5 miles south of the line of the Auburn and Syracuse Railroad, is delightfully situated at the foot oi Skaneateles Lake. It was incorporated in 1833, and now contains about 1,500 inhabitants. The lake, 15 miles long, and from a half a mile to a mile wide, is a beautiful sheet of w^ater, surrounded by well cultivated farms and country residences, and celebrated for its fine trout, which are taken in great abundance, weighing from 5 to 10 pounds. Auburn, is situated on the outlet of Owasco lake, 172 miles west of Albany, and 8 miles south of the Erie ca- nal. It was incorporated in 1815, and contained in 1840, 5,626 inhabitants. 800 dwelling houses, a court-housej jail, and county clerk's office. The Auburn State Prison, on the north side of the Owasco outlet a splendid edifice of the kind, was founded in 1816, and cost over half a million of dollars. Here is inclosed 10 acres of land, surrounded by a solid stone wall, from 16 to 40 feet in height and 3 feet thick. The main building, facing the east, is 3 stories high, besides the basement, sur- mounted by a turretted cupola, in which is an alarm bell. The wings are of two stories, the whole front being 276 feet long, and the wings 242 deep by 45 feet wide, enclos. 152 WESTERN TOUR. ing on three sides a court in the rear, about 190 feet square. The cells in the interior are built within the ex- terior front, are 5 stories high, surrounded by galleries. There are 770 of these separate cells, each cell being 7 feet long, 3| feet wide, 7| feet high, and calculated to ac- commodate one prisoner during his relaxation from labor. In addition to the cells, the main building contains a chapel, a hospital, dining-room for the prisoners, cook- ing apartments, and store rooms ; besides apartments in the main front building, used as offices for the clerk and agent, and for the residence of the principal keeper. Here are now about 700 convicts, mostly engaged in dif- ferent kinds of mechanical pursuits, carried on in work- shops and under large sheds within the outside prison walls. Of these convicts. 570 are natives of the U. States, and 130 foreigners. The Jluburn Theological Seminary, is a large stone edifice, 4 stories high, above the basement, and will be 200 feet front, when fully completed as designed. There is now, 1841, a front of 160 feet finished and occupied, under the charge of four professors, with about 80 stu- dents. It was chartered in 1820, and first went into ope- ration in 1821. The outlet of Owasco lake is a large and durable stream. Within the limits of the village there is a fall of about 100 feet, affording hydraulic power of great magnitude, much of which is yet unoccupied. The jiu- burn and Syracuse Railroad, terminates at this place, and extends to Syracuse, 26 miles. The Auburn and Rochester Railroad commences at the termination of the above road and runs to the city of Rochester, in rather a circuitous line, a distance of 79 miles. Stages leave Au- burn for Ithaca and Cortland on the south, and Oswego on the north, all of which connect with other lines of WESTERN TOUR. 153 travel, running to different places. Auburn is one of the finest inland villages in the state ; its public and private buildings are generally constructed in a good style of ar- chitecture, coinbining elegance and durability, and it is altogether a very desirable place of residence. OwAsco Lake, a few miles southeast of Auburn, is 12 miles long and about 1 mile wide, being celebrated for its picturesque scenery. The water is very transpa- rent, abounding in fish, and the banks rather rugged. Weedsport, 8 miles north of Auburn, is on the Erie canal. It was incorporated in 1831, and now contains about 800 inhabitants. Port Byron, 3 miles west of the above place, and on the Erie canal, was incorporated in 1837, and now con- tains about 1,000 inhabitants. Here is an extensive flour- ing mill, with 12 run of stones. Montezuma, 205 miles from Albany, by canal route, is situated at the junction of the Cayuga and Seneca canal with the Erie canal ; it contains about 600 inhabitants, one church, tbree taverns and 5 stores. Here are a num- ber of saline springs, from which salt has been manufac- tured ever since the earliest settlement of this part of the country ; and the salt is of the best and purest quali- ty. " The specific gravity of this brine is 1.09767 ; and 1,000 parts of it contain 129.33 parts of dry solid matter, or 12.93, in 100 parts of brine. This is within one per cent of the strength of much of the brine now worked in Onondaga county." The village of Cayuga, 10 miles west of Auburn, is situated on the east bank of Cayuga Lake ; it contains about 300 inhabitants, 50 dwelling houses, one church, two taverns and three stores. Here the celebrated " Cayu- ga Bridge" crosses the lake, which is upwards of a mile wide ; a new bridge has also been here erected for the L 154 WESTERN TOUR. railroad, still longer. A steamboat runs from this place to Ithaca, a distance of 40 miles. Tourists travelling for pleasure are recommended to deviate south on their arrival at the foot of Cayuga Lake and make the TOUR OF THE CENTRAL LAKES of NEW- YORK Cayuga Lake, which constitutes one of the Central Lakes of New- York, is 40 miles long and from 1 to 4 miles wide ; it lies between the counties of Cayuga and Seneca, extending some 10 or 12 miles into Tompkins county. This lake, which is very deep, is navigated by steamboats from Cayuga Bridge to the village of Ithaca, stopping at the intermediate landings. It is a most beau- tiful sheet of water, surrounded by well cultivated farms and thriving villages ; and abounds with salmon trout, white fish, pike, pickerel, perch and catfish. On several of the inlets to this lake, towards the south, are most beauti- ful and picturesque water falls, well worthy the attention of the lovers of natural scenery. The outlet flows north into Seneca river. " The railroad route from Auburn to Rochester, carries you to the northern end of Cayuga Lake, where the rail- road crosses the water by a bridge a mile and a half long. At the village of East Cayuga, you can embark on the steamer Simeon De Witt, a fast, commodious and well regulated low-pressure boat, where every attention wiU be paid to your comfort and enjoj^ment. " In this vessel you pass up (south,) through the Cayuga Lake, which is 40 miles long, and varies from one to four miles in width. The extreme beauty of this sheet of water, transparent as crystal, being fed to a great ex- tent by living springs, and of prodigious depth, 500 feet of line failing to find bottom, its varying scenery, from the highly cultivated sloping shores at its northern end WESTERN TOUR. 155 lo the wilder and more abrupt borders of its southern ex- tremity ; its similarity in some parts to, and contrast in others with the Hudson river scenery, have never failed to elicit from all who have passed over it, the highest admiration." As the boat proceeds southerly the different landings, passed in succession, are as follows : On the eastern shore, Union Springs, or Springpoet, where several mills find their supply of water from the number of springs which rise within a short distance of the shore. This is also the great locality of the gypsum or plaster, whence a large portion of the western coun- ties of this state, and the northern counties of Pennsyl- vania, derive their supply of this valuable manure. Levanna, a beautiful point, jutting out into the lake. Aurora, one of the oldest settled and most pictures- que villages in the western counties. The route changes here to the western shore, when the first landing is Sheldrake Point, a beautiful low promontory, ex- tending half a mile out from the main shore. Kidder's Ferry; PoRTLAND,-sand Frog Point, are next passed. Goodwin's Point, lies at the mouth of the Taghcanic creek, which has, a mile from its mouth, one of the most remarkable cataracts to be found in the country. Crossing the lake again to the eastern shore, the boat makes its last stop at Ltjdlowville Landing, the port of the village of that name, which lies a mile from the water, en an ele- vated spot, but not visible from the water. From this point, the suburbs of Ithaca, distant 9 miles, crowning the eminence in the rear of the village, are visible, while still higher may be seen the line of the Ithaca and Owego Railroad distinctly marked by the house containing its stationary engine at the summit of 156 WESTEIIN Toun. its inclined plane, which is elevated near 400 feet above the surface of the lake. The village of Ithaca is par- tially concealed by a dense forest from the eye, and is ap- proached from the lake throueh the Cayuga Inlet, a na- tural canal of two miles in length, winding through the plain on which the village stands. Ithaca, is beautifully situated on a flat one and a half miles above the head of Cayuga lake, with which it is connected by the Cayuga Inlet, navigable for steamboats to the village. It is 170 miles west from Albany, and distant 205 miles northwest from the city of New- York. This village was incorporated in 1821, having been found- ed about 1800, by the late Simeon Be Witt, surveyor- general of the state. It now contains about 4,000 in- habitants, 600 dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, and a count}'' clerk's office ; one Presbyterian, one Dutch Reformed, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist and one African church ; three banking houses, with an aggregate capital of $650,000 ; nine hotels and taverns, and 46 stores and groceries. Within the chartered limits of the village is found hy- draulic povv-er equal to any in the state, for extent and facility of application. Fall Creek alone is capable of operating 133,000 cotton spindles at all seasons of the year ,• and the water power on Cascadilla and Six Mile creeks is verj'^ extensive. There are at present on these streams, 2 flouring mills, with 12 run cf stones ; 2 plas- ter mil's, 1 tanner3% 1 brev/ery, 1 paper mill, 3 furnaces, 2 machine shops. 1 carding and cloth dressing establish- ment : 1 oil mill. 1 sash factory, a number of turning- shops, 2 tobacco factories, and 1 cotton factory, with 50 looms ; besides which there has been recently established 1 woollen factory, with $100,000 capital, and 7 sets of WESTERN TOUR. 157 machinery ; anJ a new company has been organized for the manufacture of cotton. The site of the village is very beautiful • a portion of it lies upon the hiil, commanding a fine view of the lake and the valley of the inlet, v;ith the surrounding coun- try, which is well cultivated. The houses are tastefully and neatly built j and the streets, which cross each other at right angles, and are lined with choice shade trees, form vistas opening upon charming views of the adjacent hills. The location of this village with reference to trade, is equally advantageous. By means of Cayuga lake, and the Cayuga and Seneca canal, it communicates vrith the Ei'ie canal ; and by the Ithaca and Ovvxgo Railroad with the Susquehanna river, and the line of the New- York and Erie RaiRad. Thus, while enjojdng equal advantages with other western villages for intercourse with the cities on the Hudson, it partakes in the growing trade in pias- ter, salt, lime, flour and merchandize, carried into Penn- sylvania in exchange for coal and iron. The completion of the New- York and Erie Railroad wall open to this place still further advantages by furnishing an avenue for winter trade with the sea board, wdiile it will present at all seasons a cheap and expeditious route for travel. A beautiful steamboat for the convej-ance of passengers, and one used in towing canal boats, run daily between Ithaca and Cayuga Bridge, a distance of 40 miles. Daily lines of stages also leave here for Geneva, Auburn, New- burgh and the city of New- York ; besides tri- weekly stages, running east, west, north and south, to different places. To tourists the great attraction of Ithaca consists in its scenery. Built in a valley, hemmed in by an extension of the lofty hills which form the shores of the lake, it is sur- rounded by scenery of the most attractive character. From 158 WESTER]!? TOUR. the heights which encircle it three large streams within the village, and within four miles south, several others, fall with rapid descent to the plain, forming cascades of surpassing beaut)' and sublimity. In a single day, a number of water falls, equaling the famed Trenton Fallg, may be visited. The following is a brief description of the Falls at and near Ithaca: The falls of Fall Creek are near the village, and are seen* on entering the village by the Auburn stage road. Their height is 150 feet, with the same breadth. The "water of this creek, collected in a dam above the fall, is con- veyed to the mills below, through a tunnel 9 feet square, and 300 feet long, hewed through a jutting promontory rock, at a distance of 40 feet below the sui-face of the ground. The curious visiter after passing through the tunnel, finds himself in the bed of the creek^ between rock walls more than 100 feet high. The view from this point is grand and impressive. The visiter proceeds a short distance from this, up the rocky bed of the creek, until his steps are arrested by another splendid fall ; the bank presenting the most curious forms and the most sur- prising strata. The fall is beautiful 5 it is not so high as the preceding, but it is more wild ; the water pours over in large sheets, commencing, as it w-ere, from the top- most ledge, and then spreading out wildly and boldly be- low. The basin into w'hich the water falls is also very, picturesque. There are two more falls beyond these, which, with the others, make the descent 438 feet in the short space of one mile. On the Six Mile Creek, Cascadilla Creek and on the Buttermilk Creek, there are also a great number of beau- tiful and romnntic falls, all worthy of particular notice WESTERN TOUR. 159 and equal to any thing in this country. These are all near the village. On the Five Mile Creek, vv^hich is four miles south from Ithaca, is one of the most interesting cataracts in the country, surpassed by none here enumerated. At Goodwin's Point there is still another fall, called the Taghcanic. This point is a place where the steam- boat lands daily. The ravine is ascended for about a quarter of a mile, and then the eye is amazed with a fall of water of 200 feet in perpendicular height, a breadth of 20 feet, and banks of 360 feet high. On going south from Ithaca j^ou take the Ithaca and Owego Railroad for Owego, distant 30 miles, where you reach the line of the New- York and Erie Railroad. Owego is a pleasant village, situated on the north bank of the Susquehanna river, and is destined, as the point of union of the Ithaca and Owego, and the New- York and Erie Railroads, to be a place of importance. The Owego Creek supplies it with a valuable water power. From this place you take conveyances and descend southwes- terly the Susquehanna river, to the village of Athens, in the state of Pennsylvania, at the confluence of the Sus- quehanna and Chemung rivers ; and from this point changing your course northwesterly you ascend the latter stream to the village of Elmira, situated at its point of union w'ith the Chemung canal, which unites the waters of the Chemung river with Seneca lake, 32 miles west of Owego, the entire route being along the line of the New York and Erie Railroad. There is not probably in any part of New-York, a route so abounding in varied beauties of soft and pastoral, sublime and mountain scenery as this. All travellers agree in saying that this portion of 160 WESTKltJf TOLR O the tour would amply repay them for their divergence from the old line of travel. The village of Elmira is another of those beautiful places which, by the enterprise of our yeomanry have sprung up far from the great travelled roads, unknown because unseen, and yet from its position and local ad- vantages, will soon be a large and important place. From Elmira by carriage you traverse northerly the route of the Chemung Canal, 19 miles, to the village of Jefferson, on the inlet of the Seneca Lake, where the steamer receives you, and carrying you through this sheet of water, in every respect the equal of its sister Cayuga, lands you at the beautiful village of Geneva, on the grand route, 15 miles west from the point where you com- menced the Tour of the Middle Lakes.* The village of Seneca Falls, 15 miles west of Au^ burn, and 187 miles from Albany, is advantageously situa- ted on both sides of the outlet of Seneca lakej it was in- corporated in 1831, and now contains about 3,000 inha- bitants ; 400 dwelling houses ; 5 churches of diiferent de- nominations j 1 cotton factory, and 8 flouring mills. In this neighborhood are large quantities of gypsum, which is here ground and sent to different parts of the country. The Cayuga and Seneca canal and the Auburn and Ro- chester Railroad, pass through this village. The water power afforded by the Seneca outlet is very great; the descent from Seneca to Cayaga lake, a distance of 12 miles, being about 75 feet. The stream is abundant, and not subject to freshets, scarcely ever having a rise to exceed two feet; the hydraulic power is great, and is but ' Travellers from the west, on their return from Niagai'a, will under- stand that the reverse of the above proposed tour is to pe adopted, com- mencing at Geneva, and ending at East Cayuga WESTERN TOUR. 161 partially employed. At Seneea Falls, there is a descent of upwards ot 40 feet within the distance of one mile. Here are five locks in the Cayuj^a and Seneca canal, which unites with the Erie canal at Montezuma. Wateeloo, 191 miles west of the city of Albany, is handsomely situated on both sides of the outlet of Seneca lake, which is in part used as the Cayuga and Seneca canal. It was incorporated in 1824, and now contains about 2,600 inhabitants, 350 dwelling hoijses, a court- house and jail, being a half shire town with Ovid : 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist church ; an academy ; 8 hotels and taverns j 1 banking house,- 25 dry goods, grocery and other stores ; 1 large woollen factory, which manufactures over 200,000 pounds of wool annually, and 5 flouring mills, containing 18 run of stone. The fall of water at this place is about 16 feet. In this immediate vicinity are quarried large quan- tities of limestone, extensively used for building. In ad- dition to the Cayuga and Seneca canal, the Auburn and Rochester Railroad passes through this village, which is about equi-distant between Cayuga and Seneca lakes. Geneva, 27 miles west of Auburn, and 191 miles from Albany, is beautifully situated near the foot, or north end of Seneca lake, on the w^estern side. The principal part of the village which is devoted to the residences of the inhabitants, lies upon a ridge along the banks of the lake, and elevated about 100 feet above its surface, while the business part extends to the plain which lies at the foot of the lake, and but little elevated. The land west ol the village is peculiarly formed, consisting of a succession of ridges parallel to the lake, and rising higher and high- er for some distance, commanding a view of its waters, as if formed for choice residences in this region of beau- ty. The village was incorporated in 1812, and now con- 162 WESTERA' TOUR. tains about 3,600 inhabitants, and 500 dwelling houses The Geneva College, attached to which are three build- ings, and the Geneva Lyceum, are located here; and 6 churches of different denominations. The new Episco- pal church is a splendid edifice, erected at a cost of about $30,000. The accommodation for strangers at Geneva is very good, there being several well kept hotels ; and carriages are always in readiness at the railroad depot and steamboat landing, to convey passengers to any part of the village. Two or three steamboats ply regularly on the lake, running daily up and down between Geneva and the village of Jefferson at the head of the lake ; con- necting with stages to Elmira and Corning ; and at the latter place with the railroad to Blossburg. in Pennsyl- vania, A boat is employed in towing canal boats, which come to Geneva by the Cayuga and Seneca canal, a branch of the Erie canal, and thence to the villages on the lake, and to the canal which connects this lake with Crooked Lake, and the Chemung canal, leading from Jefferson to the Chemung river at Elmira, and by the feeder to Corning. By the Blossburg Railroad and the canal just mentioned, a large quantity of coal from the Blossburg mines, passes through this village on its way to market. Near the canal basin at the northern part of the village, passes the Auburn and Rocliester Railroad; and probably ere many years the intercourse now not difficult by the canals, stages and the Blossburg Railroad, with the sys- tem of canals and railroads in Pennsylvania, will open through the Seneca lake which is never frozen, an easy and direct communication with the south. The meri- dian of the capital at "Washington passes through, the lake about half a mile east of Geneva. Geneva College, received its charter in 1825, and is a flourishing institution. The college buildings, three in WESTERN TOUR. 163 number, are beautifully situated on Main- street, over- looking Seneca lake. A large and handsome building is about being erected on the same street for the use of the medical department. Seneca Lake, is one of the largest as well as the most beautiful of the numerous lakes, which so much a%^ ,^ adorn western New- York. It extends from south to north 40 miles, and varies in width from 2 to 4 miles. It is very deep, and in consequence is never frozen. The depth is not accurately known, but w^as found a year or two ago to be 560 feet about 12 miles above the outlet. The lands about the south end of the lake are high and picturesque j about the northern less elevated, but undu- lating, and covered with the richest crops, with here and there remains of the magnificent primitive forest. The outlet of the lake is at the northeastern angle, and the discharge of waters furnishes an ample supply of power to the manufactories of Waterloo and Senaca Falls, ^ which flourishing villages are situated, the former about six and the latter ten miles from the lake. Seneca lake receives the water of Crooked lake at Dresden, about 12 miles above Geneva. The outlet of Crooked lake is about 6 miles in length, and the descent to Seneca lake about 270 feet. A canal constructed along this outlet con- nects the two lakes. Seneca lake does not so much abound with fish as some of the other lakes, probably in conse- quence of the depth and coldness of the w^aters. There are found in it, however, white-fish, pike, pickerel, trout, perch, herring, rock-bass, striped-bass, chub, sun- fish, cat-fish, eels, shiners, mullet, &c. Lyons, 16 miles north of Geneva, is eligibly situated on the Erie canal, 181 miles west of Albany by mail route. It was incorporated in 1831, and now contains # about 1,800 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, a coutt- 164 WESTERN TOUR. house and jail, county clerk's and surrogate's ofUce ; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist, 1 Baptist and 1 Lutheran church. Stages leave Lyons daily for Geneva, Rochester, Scdus Point and Syracuse, in addition to com- modious canal packets vv'hich pass and repass twice daily. The village of Clyde, is 9 miles east of Lyons, on the Erie canal. It was incorporated in 1835, and now con- tains about 1,000 inhabitants. Newark, 7 miles v/est of Lyons, and on the Erie ca- nal, is an active place of business, and contains about 1,200 inhabitants. Palmyra, 15 miles west of Lyons, on the Erie canal, was incorporated in 1828, and now contains about 2,000 inhabitants.* It is situated on an elevated and dry piece of ground, in the midst of a delightful wheat grov/ing country. The main street is over one mile and a quarter I in length, and at each end touches the canal ; it is inter- sected by cross streets of ample width, many of which are ornamented by beatiful shade trees. On leaving Geneva, going west by railroad, you incline to the north, passing through a fine section of country, for which the county of Ontario is justly celebrated. Vienna, 8 miles from Geneva, is a flourishing place, on the outlet of the Canandaigua lake, at the junction of Flint creek. There are two settlements about one mile apart, known as East Vienna and West Vienna. Clifton Springs, 3 miles west of Vienna, are resorted to for their medicinal properties, and have become some- what celebrated. They are sulphur springs, of a similar character to many others to be found in Western New- York. Short's Mills, is the name given to a small settle- N( ment on the line of the railroad, 5 miles further west. WESTERN TOUR. 165 Canakdaigxja, is delightfully situated near the foot of Canandaigua lake, 222 miles west of Albany by railroad. It was incorporated in 1815, and now contains about 2,700 inhabitants, 350 dwelling houses, a court-house, jail, surrogate's office, county clerk's office and town house ; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Metho- dist, and 1 African church; 2 banking houses and a saving's bank. Wo place in the state probably exceeds this village as a desirable place of residence; being sur- rounded by a rich agricultural district abounding in al- most everj^ luxury for which Western New-York is so justly celebrated. On the south, at a short distance, lies Canandaigua lake, with its cultivated shores, infuU view of this abode of taste and opulence. Canandaigua Lake, is a most beautiful sheet of wa- ter, IS miles long, and from 1 to 1| miles wide, lying mostly in the county of Ontario, and a small part in Yates county ; it is surrounded by well cultivated lands, celebrated for their fertility, diversified by charming sce- nery. Its waters, which are deep and clear, abound with fish of different kinds, and are elevated 670 feet above the Atlantic ocean. Ccmandaigua Outlet flows northeast into Flint creek, thence into Cl;/de and Seneca river ; all of which are important mill streams. The village of Victor, is 9 miles west of Canandaigua, and a little to the north of the railroad. PiTTSFORD, 12 miles further, is on the line of the Erie canal, near its intersection with the railroad. It was in- corporated in 1827, and nov/ contains about 700 inhabi- tants. Brighton, 4 miles east of Rochester, is also on the ine of the Erie canal. 166 WESTERN TOUR. The City of Rochester, 251 miles from Albany, by railroad, is advantageously situated on both sides of the Genesee river, and on the line of the Erie canal. 6 miles south of Lake Ontario, w^ith which the Genesee affords good water communication for steamboats and schooners from the landing at Carthage, three miles below the centre of the city. It was chartered as a city in 1834, and is di- vided into 5 wards, being governed by a Mayor, Recorder and board of Aldermen. It contained in 1840, 20,202 inhabitants, mostly engaged in mercantile and manufac- turing pursuits ,• about 2,000 dwelling houses ; a court- house, jail and county clerk's office ; 2 public markets, 6 banking houses, 1 saving's bank, 1 mutual insurance com- pan ; 5 Presbyterian, 2 Epispcopal, 2 Baptist, 2 Metho- dist, 2 Roman Catholic, 1 Unitarian, 1 Covenanters, 2 Friends' meeting houses, 1 Universalist, 1 Lutheran and 1 Christian church j a museum j a collegiate institute; 2 female seminaries ; 2 orphan asylums, and 2 arcade buildings. Steamboats arrive and depart daily during the season of navigation, from the landing|on the south of the city, and from Charlotte at the mouth of the river. Besides the steamboat, canal and railroad routes, diverging from this place, several lines of daily stages also centre here, running to different places for the accommodation of tra- vellers. The natural and artificial curiosities of Rochester and its vicinity are well worthy of notice. The most impor- tant of them are the Genesee Falls, which are seen to the greatest advantage from the east side of the river, a short distance below the railroad bridge ,• the noble aqueduct for the enlarged canal, is a splendid specimen of ma- son work ; other falls and bridges, together with the Mount Hope Cemetery, to the south of the city, all giv- WESTERN TOUR. 167 ing to Rochester many points of attraction well worthy the attention of the traveller. The hotels are numerous^ and most of them well kept, affording every desirable luxury in abundance. To the immense water power which Rochester posses- ses, by means of a succession of falls in the Genesee river, may be justly ascribed her rapid growth and sub- stantial wealth. There are now within the limits of the city, and all using water power, 21 flouring mills, with 108 run of stones ; 2 woollen factories, 1 cotton factory, 1 wrought- iron forge, 4 iron foundries, 11 'machine shops, 2 brass foundries, 1 plaining and flooring mill, 1 veneering mill, 2 paper mills, 1 oil mill, 4 tobacco and snuff factories, 7 saw mills, 1 pail factory, 3 pump fac- tories, 2 shoe-peg factories, 2 edge-tool factories, 1 thresh- ing machine and fanning mill factory, 1 chair factory, 2 last factories, 2 stave manufactories, 1 sash factory, 3 wood turning establishments, 4 tanneries, 3 distilleries and 3 breweries. Within the limits of the city, a dis- tance of 3 miles, the total fall of water is nearly 300 feet, affording an almost inexhaustible supply of water power, which is but partly used. The immense amount of flour manufactured at this place alone, gives employment to a great number of persons. These mills are capable of making 5,000 barrels of flour per day, consuming, when under full headway, about 25,000 bushels of wheat daily. There are upwards of twenty forwarding establishments connected with the trade of the Erie and Genesee Valley canals, besides a limited shipping interest on Genesee river and Lake Ontario. 168 WESXEKN TOUR, STAGES LEAVING ROCHESTER. Daily Lines, 1. From Rochester to Lockport, via Ridge Road, 64 miles; usual fare, $2.50; connecting at Lockport with the railroad extending to Lewiston and Niagara Falls. 2. From Rochester to Lockport, via Canal Route, 62 miles ; usual fare, $2.00. Leaves daily, (Sunday's ex- cepted.) 3. From Rochester to Bath, Steuben Co. via Geneseo and Dansville, 75 miles ; usual fare, $3.00 ; connecting with stages running to Corning and Elmira. Tri-weekly Lines. 4. From Rochester to Olean, Cattaraugus Co. via Mount Morris and Angelica, 96 miles ; usual fare, $4.00. Leaves Rochester Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays ; leaves Olean, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. 5. From Rochester to Oswego, 76 miles ; usual fare, $4.00. Leaves Rochester, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, at 6^ A BI.,' leaves Oswego on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, at 4 A. M. The Genesee Valley Canal, commences at Rochester, and ascends the rich valley of the Genesee, being now finished to Mount Morris, a distance of 37 miles, with a branch to Dansville, a total length of 52 miles. Passage boats run daily on this canal to the above places, stop- ping at the intermediate landings on the route. The most noted place of resort in the Valley of the Genesee, is Avon Springs, 20 miles south of Roches- ter. The village is delightfully situated about half a mile east of the right bank of the Genesee river, and two miles from the Genesee Valley canal, on an elevated terrace about one hundred feet above the river, command- ing an extensive prospect of the rich Genesee Valley and urrounding country. WESTERN TOlUKo 169 Connecte.'l with the village, en the southwest, are the justl}^ famed medicinal springs, giving celebrity to the place. The two principal springs are distinguished as the Upper and Lower Springs, distant from each other about 80 rods. They prssess similar properties, differing only in the relative quantities of the same mineral ingre- dients. Analysis and experience have fully tested the san- ative properties of these waters. They are found peculiar- ly efficacious in disorders of the digestive organs, rheuma- tic complaints and gout, in all sorts of cutaneous ailcc- tjons, and in every kind of obstructions. There are several well-kept hotels both at the village and near the Springs. The most noted are the Avon Ea- gle Hotel, kept by O.. Comstock j the Avon Hotel, or Hosmer House, kept by H. R. Phillips ; the Knicker- bocker Hall, kept by D. Knickerbocker, and the Spring Hc» tel, kept N, Houghton. The two latter are situated near the springs, the two former in the village. The accom- modations for bathing are also extensive and hanJsome- iy arranged, there being three establishments ; altogether affording great attractions not only for the invalid but for the seeker of pleasure. The following is an analysis of the lower spring, which is the most esteemed for drinking. One gallon contains : Carbonate of lime, 23.33 grains. Chloride of calcium, 8.41 •' Sulphate of lime, 57.44 " Sulphate of magnesia, 49.61 " Sulphate of soda, 13.75 ^' Amount of saline ingredients 15S 52 Carbonic acid, 3.92 cubic inches. Per volume, sulphuretted hydrogen gas, 10.02 Nitrogen gas, 5.42 Oxygen gas, - . . . 56 M <( 170 WESTERN TOUR. The temperature of these waters is 45 degrees of Fah- renheit ; specific gravity, 10.018; quantity of water dis- charged, 54 gallons per minute. On returning from Avon to Rochester, the traveller has a choice of two conveyances, by canal boats or stages. There are several modes of conveyance from Roches- ter, west to Buffalo and Niagara Falls. The route by railroad to Buffalo, 74 miles is the most expeditious. The canal route, 95 miles, is a cheap and comfortable mode of travelling ; in addition to which, steamboats run daily, during the season of navigation, from Carthage, 3 miles below the centre of the city, to Lewiston, and thence passengers are conveyed by railroad cars to Niaga- ra Falls and Buffalo. Railroad Route from Rochester to Buffalo. The Tonawanda Railroad, extends west from Rochester, through the villages of Churchville and Bergen. Batavia, 32 miles west of Rochester, and 283 from Albany, by railroad route, is pleasantly situated on a plain, through which flows the Tonawanda creek ; it was incorporated in 1823, and now contains about 2,000 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, a court-house, jail and county clerk's office, a state arsenal, the general land of- fice of the Holland Land Company ; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 2 Baptist and 1 Methodist church ; a female seminary in a flourishing condition ; 2 banking houses, and 7 hotels and taverns. Stages run from Batavia south, to Warsaw; and north, to Albion and Lockport. The village of Attica, 11 miles from Batavia, and on the Tonawanda creek, is the western terminus of the Tonawanda Railroad. It is an active place of business, containing about 800 inhabitants. The Attica and Buffalo Railroad, is 3 1 miles long, terminating at the city of Buffalo. The total distance from Albany to Buffalo, by railroad route, is 325 miles. WESTERN TOUR. 171 Canal Route from Rochester to Buffalo. Brockport, 20 miles west of Rochester, and 289 by canal from Albany, is handsomely situated on the Erie canal ; it was incorporated in 1829, and now contains about 2,000 inhabitants, 250 dwelling houses, 1 Presby- terian, 1 Episcopal, and 1 Methodist church j and a col- lege building now used as an academy. l"he village of Holley, 5 miles west of Brockport, contains about 350 inhabitants. Sandy Creek flows through this place, over which the canal passes by means of an embankment, 75 feet above the bed of the stream, which is conveyed under it by a culvert. Albion, on the Erie Canal, 60 miles from Buffalo, and 304 miles from Albany, by canal route ; was incorporated in 1829, and now contains about 1,400 inhabitants, 200 dwelling houses, a court-house, jail and county clerk's office ; 2 banking houses ; an incorporated academy and Phipp's fer/.ale seminary, both in a flourishing condition, to each of which is attached large brick edifices ; 1 Pres- byterian, 1 Baptist and 1 Methodist church ; 3 taverns, 18 stores and groceries, 7 ware-houses and 1 flouring mill. Here is a canal collector's office and a convenient landing. The village oi Gaines, 1 or 2 miles north of Albion, and on the Ridge Road, was incorporated in 1832, and now contains 6 or 700 inhabitants. The Alluvial Way, or Ridge Road, is a work of nature, extending from the Genesee river, near Roches- ter, to the Niagara river, near Lewistcn. It is a gently curving ridge composed of beach sand and gravel stoneSj apparently worn smooth by the action of water. Its ge- neral width is from 6 to 8 rods, raised in the middle, and the top presents an excellent road, called the "Ridge Road," extending upwards of 80 miles, being from 6 to 10 miles south of the present shore ol Lake Ontario, of which it once no doubt formed the beach. . 172 WESTERN TOUR. Kxov.'LF.sviLLK, 7 milcs Avpst of x\lbion, is an incor- porate] village on the line of the Erie canaJ, anJ ccr.<= tains about 590 inhabitants. Medina, 4 rai'es further west, on the Erie c^nal, v/aa incorporate,! in 1332, ani now contains about 900 inhabi- tants, 130 dwelling houses, ani several mills and manu- facturing establishments. MiDELEPORT, 17 miles west cf Albion, contains about 400 inhabitants. Gasport, 5 miles further west, lakes its name from several mineral burning springs cf some celebrity, situat- e.i near the line cf the canal. The gas is used for do- mestic purposes. The village of Lockport is en the Erie canal, 31 miles northeast of Buffalo, ani from Albany by canal route, 333 miles. It was incorporateJ in 1327, ani now con- tains about 6,500 inhabitants, 800 dwelling houses, a court-house, jail ani county clerk's office ; 2 Presbyte- rian, 1 Congregational, 2 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Metho- dist, 1 Roman Catholic, 1 Lutheran ani 1 African church ; besides an Orthodox and Hicksite meeting house. The hydraulic power derived from the surplus waters of the Erie Canal at this place, is sufficient to propel at least 300 run of mill stones, and is admirably located fcr an extensive manufacturing town. In addition to the Erie canal which passes through the centre of the village, the Loc'sport ani Nia^ar'f- Falls Railroad commences at this place, ani runs to Niagara Falls, 24 miles ; the Buffalo and Niazara Falls Railroad extends a further distance of 22 miles to the city of Bufialo, afforiing a speedy communication for travellers visiting the Falls ani Buffalo. Here are now re- building ten combined locks, to be constructed cf lime rock in the most finished style cf mascnry, to acccmmcdale the enlarged Erie ca- WESTERN TOUR. 173 nal. Lcclcpcrt has sprung up and keccme cne cf our largest in'ani villages since the completion cl' the above canal, deii/ing its name from the above locks. Here is the first fall of water between this place anJ Lake Erie, there being a descent of about 60 feet. A daily line cf stages run from this place to Batavia, and to Rochester by the ridge road, in addition to daily lines of canal packet beats running east and west. From Lockport to Lewiston, the Falls of Niagara, and EufFalo, travellers are speedi y taken by railroad ; the ca- nal boats though slower are cheap and ccmicrtable. The principal villages through which the Erie canal passes from Lockport to Buffalo, are Tonawanda, 19 miles distant, and where the line of the canal approaclies the Niagara river, and Black Rock, 3 miles from Buf- falo. Here is a long stone pier and dam, which answers tlie double purpose of raising the water of the outlet of Lake Erie, so as to feed the canal, and far- nish a vast amount of hydraulic power. At Buffalo, 364 miles from Albany by canal route, is the terminus cf the Erie canal. Here a plan has been proposed to construct an extensive basin, to accommodate the immense number of canal beats that navigate this ar- tificial river, connecting the waters of the great inland seas of America, with the Atlantic ocean. The United States government is constructing fcetweerx Buffalo and Black Rock, an extensive and strong fortress, on a scale suitable for the defence cf so important a point. It is situated on a rise cf ground about a mile and a half north of the cilj' — that is, about halfway to Black Rock — and neaidy opposite to the site of Fort Erie, en the Canada side, which was made memorable by the sortie of Gen. Porter, then of Black Rock, and his volunteers, on the ITth of August, in the glorious campaign cf 1SI4 174 WESTERN TOUR. Niagara Falls, the admiration and wonder of all who behold them, are situated in the Niagara river, about equi-dislant between Lakes Erie and Ontario, and 330 miles west of Albany, by the most usually travelled route. For an accurate, well drawn, detailed description of the Falls, the tourist is referred to " Orr's Pictorial Guide to Niagara Falls," published in 1842, inas- much as the different views, features, and points of at- traction, are sufficiently numerous and interesting to form a volume of themselves. The following extracts w^ritten in the summer of 1843, are here inserted to guide those who may not possess the above work. "The Falls of Niagara, always majestic and won- derful for their power over the imagination, really seem to be improving in grandeur. The truth is, the lover of nature, the tourist in search of the pictur- esque, or the patriot who to these attractions would add the enjoyment of those delicious emotions which are ex- cited by the actual presence of the scenes of heroic deeds, cannot accomplish the true object of a visit to this spot — cannot really see the Falls without a sojourn of several days on both sides of the mighty cataract. Nothing less will enable him to obtain true conceptions of its surpassing grandeur and its varied magnificence. The rapids above — the falls themselves — the rapids below — the whirlpool — the vast chasm and the huge lines of precipice walling in the river — all these should be severally seen and studied. " On this magnificent frontier, it should also be re- membered, are various other localities clustered together and belonging to history. Fort Niagara, at the angle made by the junction of the river and Lake Ontario, on the American side — Fort George, on the Canada side — Queenston Heights, also on the Canada shore, made WESTERN TCUR. 175 memorable by the gallantry and steaJiness of a detach- ment of the miliiia of this Slate, leJ on to the attack by Solomon Van Rensselaer ani cnhanceJ in inierest by the fall of Gen, Brociv, the priJe of the British forces then in Canada, and whose monument, though shattered by the ruffiai Lett, is about to be rebuilt — Luniy's Lane, also on the Canada siJe, and not far from the Falls, where, on the 25lhof July, 1314, was fought one of the bloodiest battles en record — Chippewa, a liitle up stream, where, on the 5lh of the same July, an American ibrce, in fair fight anJ open field, defeated a British foi'ce creatly su- perior la nusnbers and drawn from the veterans of Wel- lington, who had conquered the conquerers cf Europe all these historical scenes nre among the objects which should be included in a visit to the Fails. '• The Burning Spring, too, on the Canada side, and the Mineral Springs, otherwise known as as the Bel'e Vue Fountain, on our side, are not to be oveidooked nor undervalued, as helping, each in its own M'ay, to sus- tain the interest cf the rival shores; so that whether we regard the grandeur cf Nature's works, or the ex- citing emotions called forth by the doings of men, it must be ccnceJeJ that the Falls of Niagara and the appurte- nances thereunto belonging, possess many and varied at- tractions. " As to hotels, I cn^y vtdsh all who are pent up and pining in hot and stifling cities, could Le transferred to this gran;lest of all ' watering places,' that tliey might breathe the air forever fresh and kepi in healthful motion by the action of the mighty cataract, anl that they might banquet on the luxuries proviJeJ by Messrs. Whitney & Son, of the Cataract House, on the American bank, or by C, B, Grifl'en cf the Clifton House, on the Cana- da bank. The Pavilion, kept by Mr. Christler, is also 176 WESTERN TOUR. on the Canada side. Besides the above, there are seve- ral well kept public houses on the American side of the river, all of which are usually thronged with visiters dur- ing the summer months." The following expressive lines were penned by the late Willis Gaylord Clark, June, 1836, immediately after having passed tRe great falling sheet of water ; to the Termination Rock, being 230 feet behind the Great Horse-Shoe Fall, which is approached from the Canada side : NIAGARA FALLS. " Here speaks the voice of God ! Let man be dumb, Nor with his vain aspirings hither come ; That voice impels these hollow-sounding floods, And like a presence fills the distant woods. These groaning rocks the Almighty's finger piled, For ages here His painted bow has smiled ; Marking the changes and the chance of time- Eternal— beautirul— serene— sublime ! " ^ te: ^^'^Mim fp^ I'll If ailL Table Rocz FROii below^ on the Canada side. I WESTERN TOUR. 177 Lewiston, 7 miles below The Falls, is situated cq the east siJe of the river, opposite Queenston and at the head of steamboat navigation ; being 7 miles from Lake Ontario. It is an incorporated village and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. Here is a convenient steamboat land- ing from which boats ply to various places on Lake On- tario ; a commodious horse ferry boat also plies across the Niagara river to Queenston, Canada. A branch railroad extends 3 miles, to its junction with the Lock- port and Niagara Fails Railroad, affording a speedy com- munication with Lockport, Niagara Falls and Buffalo. The railroad, steamboat and canal route from Buffalo to Albany, via Niagara Falls, Lewiston, Oswego, and Sy- racuse, is a desirable, cheap and speedy mode of con- veyance during the summer months. Steamboats leave Lewiston daily for Niagara, 7 miles ; Hamilton, 56 miles j Toronto, 44 miles ; Kingston, 200 miles ; Rochester, 80 miles, and Oswego, 150 miles, con- necting with other lines of travel at the above places. On the arrival of the Oswego and Toronto boats, rail- road cars immediately convey passengers to Buffalo, via Niagara Falls, a distance of 30 miles. A dai'y line of stages run from opposite Lewiston, through Canada, to Detroit, Michigan, a distance of 262 miles. Fort Niagaka, 7 miles below Lewiston, lying on the American shore at the mouth of Niagara river, is well worthy of a visit in connection with the ruins of Fort George, on the Canadian shore, near the village of Ni- agara. In 1679, M. De Salle, the explorer of the Mis- sissippi, in the service of France, enclosed the spot on which the fort was here built in 1725, by pallisades. In 1759, it was taken by the British unJer Sir William Johnson, in whose hands it remained until 1796, when it 178 WESTERN TOURo was evacuated and given up to the United States. On the 19lh of December^ 1813, it was again taken by the British by surprise; and in March, 1815, again surrendered to the Americans. This old fort is as much noted for being the theatre of tyranny and crime as for the scenes of military exploits. While in the hands of the French, there is no doubt of its having been at times used as a prison. In its close and impregnable dungeons, where light w^as not admitted, for many years, there remained clear traces of the ready instruments for execution or for murder. During the war of the Revolution it was the head-quarters of all that was barbarous, and unrelenting and cruel; this being the chief rendezvous of a savage horde that carried death and destruction into the remote American settlements. Of late years, the abduction of William Morgan, who was taken from the jail in Canan- daigua, and conveyed more than 100 miles, through a populous country and lodged in the magazine at Fort Niagara, where he was kept three or four days, and then inhumanly drowned — has justly tended to continue its reputation for being the scene of tyranny and murder. For a description of places in Canada, see " Toub THROUGH Canada." The City of Buffalo, distant from Albany 284 miles by nearest route ; 325 miles by railroad, and 363 miles by the Erie canal, is situated at the head of Niaga- ra river, the outlet of Lake Erie, and at the foot of the great chain of western lakes, and is the point where the vast trade of these inland seas is concentrated. The site of the city is one of much beauty, having a gentle southern inclination towards the lake. The harbor, form- ed by Buffalo creek, lies nearly east and west across the southern part of the city, and is separated from Lake Erie by a peninsula, between the creek and the lake. This WESTERN TOUR. 179 harbor is a very secure one, and is of such a capacity that, although steamboats, ships and other lake craft, and canal boats, to the number, in all, from two to three hun- dred, have sometimes assembled there, for the transaction of the business of the lakes, yet not one-half part of the harbor has ever yet been occupied by the vast business of the great and growing west. Facilities, however, have been wanting for bringing together the lake and canal craft, in the eastern part of the harbor; and to fur- nish these, the canal commissioners, under a special law of the state, are to extend the Erie canal a mile or more, east of its original termination, across the eastern part of the city, and parallel to the harbor. By this work, and cross cuts therefrom, canal boats will reach every part of the harbor with equal facility. The city is divided north and south, by Main-street, into two nearly equal parts, but by far the greater portion of its inhabitants occupy the eastern half of the city. Buffalo was first settled by the whites in 180 J. In 1814 it was all burned by the British, except three build- ings. In 1832 it was chartered as a city, and divided into five wards ; being governed by a mayor, recorder and board of aldermen. Its population in 1840, according to the United States census, was 18,213. In 1818 the first steamboat was built upon Lake Erie; and the total num. ber of sail craft upon these waters, at that time, was 30. There are now, 1843, some 50 or 60 steamboats, with 300 schooners and other sail craft, navigating Erie and the upper lakes, and carrying on an.extensive commerce from Buffalo westward, twelve hundred miles, through this chain of inland seas. By means of the Erie canal and the Hudson river, Buffalo is now connected with Albany and New-York ; while by a chain of railroads now completed, she is as ISO WESTERN TOUR. direct'}' connectei by Ian I through these, with Albany > anJ Boston, Massachusetts. The streets in the most compact portions of the city, arepavei; an.l the builJings, particularly those for bu- siness, are of the most durabie construction. anJ modern style. Hei'e are a court-house and jail and county clerl-'s office ; 2 public market?, one with the city oifices in the second story ; 3 Presbyterian, 2 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 2 Roman Catholic, 1 Unitarian, 1 Universalist, 3 Ger- man Protestant, 1 Bethel, 1 Methodist, and 2 African churches; 1 orphan asylum, and 1 theatre. The United States Government have constructed a pier or mole, extenJing 1.500 feet on the south side of the mouth of the creek, between the harbor and the iake. Up- on'the outer end of this pier is a light-house, 46 feet high, and 20 feet in diameter at its base. It is a beautiful and durable structure, erected in 1S32-3. The Buffalo and Black Rock Railroad, 3 miles long, ani the Buffalo and Niagara Falls Railroad, 23 miles lon2f, both commence at this place, and run north j while the Attiat and Buffalo Railroad, extends 3 1 miles eastu'-ard, connecting with the Tonawanda Railroad^ which terminates at the city of Rochester. *' Such have been the facilities atfitr. led by means of ca- nals and railroads, in connection with lake navigation, that Buffalo now presents a very active and thriving ap- pearance. Situated at the foot of one of the great series of inland seas, where every particle of produce and mer- chanJise must be transhipped, in coming both from the Far West and from the sea-board, nothing can prevent the rapid growth nn I expand ii g importance of the place. Already are her wharves anJ storehouses crowded with the products of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michi'jan, and Wisconsin, the natural resources of which vast regions WESTERN TOUR. 181 have but just begun to be developed. As the population of the northern section of the great valley of the Missis- sippi, increases, so must, in due proportion, increase the population and wealth of this Queen City of the Lakes." There are novv' running between Buffalo and Chicago^ distant about 1,000 miles, some 15 to 20 steamers of a large class ; and about as many more run to Toledo. Maumee, and Detroit, stopping at the intermediate ports. All these, together with the sailing craft of the lake, and the canal boats now thronging the harbor of Buffalo, give life and employment to great numbers of people, and heavy amounts of capital. STEAMBOAT LINES LEAVING BUFFALO. From Buffalo to Chicago. — A steamboat leaves Buffalo every other morning, during the season of navi- gation, for Chicago, Illinois. Distance 1,047 miles- Usual fare $12.00. Fkom Buffalo to Detroit. — A boat leaves Buffalo daily for Detroit, stopping at the intermediate ports. Distance 372 miles. Usual fare, $7.00. From Buffalo to Toledo and Perrysburg. — A boat leaves Buffalo daily for Perrysburg, stopping at the in- termediate ports. Distance 319 miles. Usual fare, $7.00. A boat runs daily between Buffalo and Barcelona. Distance 60 miles. Usual fare $2.00. A boat runs daily between Buffalo, Chippewa and Schlosser's Landing. Distance 22 miles. Usual fare, 37| cents. The latter line connects with railroad cars rimning from Chippewa to Queenston, and with stages runnins^ from Schlosser's Landing to Niagara Falls. A British steamer plies between Buffalo and Port Stan- ley_, Canada, running twice a week, during the season of navigation. N 1^ WESTERN TOUI{, STAGES LEAVING BUFFALO. Daily Line from Buffalo to Detroit, via Erie, Penn- sylvania-, Cleveland and Toledo, Ohio ; distance about 400 miles. Usual fare, $10.00. From Buffalo to Batavia, leaves daily, (Sundays ex- cepted.) Distance 38 miles. Usual fare, $1 .00. Tri- Weekly Lines from Buffalo to Ellicottville. Distance 50 miles. Usual fare, $2.50. From Buffalo to Warsaw. Distance 44 miles. Usual fare, $1.50. A daily line of stages runs from Buffalo to Lockport during the suspension of navigation^ distance 30 miles. Usual fare, $1.50. Distances from Buffalo to Chicago, via Detroit and St. Joseph, by steamboat, railroad and stage route. From Buffalo to Detroit by steamboat, 372 miles. Railroad and Stage Route from Detroit to Chicago. Detroit to Dearborn, by railroad,. ... 10 Dearborn to Wayne, '^' .... 8 18 Wayne to Ypsilanti, " 12 30 Ypsilanti to Ann Arbor, " 10 40 Ann Arbor to Dexter, " 10 50 Dexter to Sylvan, •' 10 60 Sylvan to Grass Lake, '' .... 10 70 Grass Lake to Jackson, " .... 10 80 Jackson to Barry, 6?/ s^ag-e, 6 85 Barry to Smithfield, 7 93 Smithfield to Albion, 6 99 Albion to Marengo, 7 106 Marengo to Marshall, 5 111 Marshall to Battle Creek, 12 123 Battle Creek to Charleston, 10 133 Charleston to Galesburs, 4 137 Galesburg to Corastock, 4 141 Comstock to Kalamazo, 4 145 Kaiamazo to Paw Paw, 18 163 Paw Paw to Hamilton, 12 175 Hamilton to Keelersville, 4 179 Keelersville to Bainbridge, 11 190 Bainbridge to St. Joseph, 10 200 St Joseph to Chicago, bij steamboat,. 69 269 'WESTERW TOUR. 183 Table of Distances through Lakes Erie, Huron AND Michigan, from port to port. PLACES. Buffalo, Dunkirk, Erie, Penn., Conneaut, Ashtabula, Grand River, . . ^ . . Cleveland, Black River, Vermilion, Huron, Sandusky, Toledo, Monroe, , Detroit, Fort Gratiot, Point au Barks, Thousand Bay Islands, Presque Isle, Mackinac, Manitou Islands, Milwaukie, Racine, Southport, Chicago, p-i €0 45 45 I 28 13 30 30 28 10 20 10 50 28 35 70 60 75 30 60 80 220 20 12 48 02 O 00 45 90 118 131 161 191 219 229 249 259 309 337 372 442 502 577 607 667 747 967 987 999 1047 o i; 372 327 282 254 241 211 181 153 143 123 113 63 35 00 70 130 205 235 295 375 595 615 627 675 u^ 1047 1002 957 929 916 886 856 828 818 798 788 733 710 675 605 545 470 440 380 300 80 60 48 Oo Interesting Excursion. During the summer months it is usual for one of the many splendid steamers that sail from Buffalo, to make a pleasure excursion of some weeks, duration, visiting the Upper Lakes, stopping at Detroit, Mackinaw, the Manitou Islands, Chicago, Green Bay, the Falls of St. Mary's, and other interesting points to be found on the borders of these great inland seas. 184 \VESTEl:W TOUll. A TRIP FROM BUFFALO TO CHICAGO. This is a deeply interesting excursion, calculated to give the traveller a just conception of the great inland seas of North America, inasmuch as the route traverses Lakes Erie, St. Clair, Huron, and Michigan, a total dis- tance of more than a thousand miles. If to this is added a trip to the Falls of St. Mary, (Sault de St. Marie,) in the outlet of Lake Superior, and connecting it with Lake Huron — to the Manitoulin Is- lands in the northern quarter of Lake Huron, their very name implying scenery fitted to excite sublime emo- tions and suggesting the strong sentiment of religious awe which characterised the primitive redman, and to the island of Mackinac, (pronounced Mackinaw,) and its sister islands in the straits of the same name, abounding with the finest trout and white fish, and connecting the lakes of Michigan and Huron — if these be added to the tour, no excursion of equal extent can be found, that presents a greater variety of picliaresque and magnificent scener3^ As this excursion begins on Lake Erie, we begin our guidance with a brief description of that noble and most useful body of water. Lake Erie, washing the shores of four of these LTni- ted States — New-York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Michi- gan — and spreading between them and a large segment of the British province of Canada "West, with the line of division as settled by treaty, running through the middle of the lake, is 240 miles long by 40 to 60 miles wide- Its surface, as ascertained by the engineers of the Erie canal, is 555 feet above the Hudson river at Albany, and 334 feet above Lake Ontario. The greatest depth of the lake yet observed, is 270 feet. This is comparatively shallow; and the relative depths of the great series of WESTERN TOUR. 185 tak^s may be illustrated by saying that the surplus waters poured^ from the vast basins of Superior, Huron, and Michigan, flow across the plate of Erie into the deep bowl of Ontario. Lake Erie is reputed to be the only one of the series in which any current is perceptible. The fact, if it is one, is usually ascribed to its shallownessj but the vast volume of is outlet — the Niagara river — with its strong ■current, is a much more favorable cause than the small depth of its water, which may be far more appropriate- ly adduced as the reason why the navigation is obstructed by ice much more than either of the other great lakes. The New- York shore of Lake Erie extends about 60 miles in the course of which the lake receives a number of streams, the most considerable of which are the Buffalo and Cattaraugus creeksj and presents several harbors, ■the most important of which at present, are Buffalo creek and Dunkirk. As connected with trade and navigation, this lake is far the most important of all the great chain, not only be- cause it is bordered by older settlements than any of them except Ontario, but still more because, from its position, it concentrates the trade of the vast west. When we consider the extent not only of this lake, but of Huron, nearly 250 miles long, of Michigan, 300 miles long., of Superior, the i'argest body of ftesh water on the globe, w« may quote with emphasis, the words of an English writer: " How little are they aware, in Europe, of the extent of commerce upon these inland seas, whose coasts are now lined with flourishing town and cities ; whose waters are ploughed with magnificent steamboats, and hundreds of vessels crowded with merchandise. Even the Americans themselves are not fully aware of the rising importance of these lakes, as connected with the west." 186 WKSTERW TOUK. Dunkirk, 45 miles from Buifalo, is no doubt destined to become an important place. Here it is intended to ter- minate the New-York and Erie Railroad, "vvhicli will no doubt be completed before many j'^ears. The fine harbor here is usuallj^ clear of ice much earlier than that of Buf- falo. This village was incorporated in 1837, and now contains about 1,000 inhabitants, 2 churches, and several public houses. The distance from Dunkirk |to New- York cit)' is 470 males by this raih-oad, 64 miles of which are finished; 177 miles, in detached portions, ready for the superstructure, and the remainder surveyed and lo- cated. Barcelona, 52 miles southwest from Buffalo, is the westernmost village in the state of New- York. It is a port of entry and contains about 400 inhabitants, 3 taverns, and ten or fifteen stores and storehouses. A steamboat runs from Buffalo to this place, stopping at the intermediate ports. Here, too, is a lighthouse, lighted with inflamma- ble gas, which escapes from the bed of the creek, about a mile distant, and is carried in pipes to the shore. Erie, Pa., 90 miles from Buffalo, is beautifully situa- ted on Presque Isle bay, affording one of the best har- bors on the lake. It contains about 4,000 inhabitants,- a court-house and jail; 8 churches,- 1 banking house; several well kept public houses, and a number of stores and warehouses. It is a place of much trade and of growing importance. CoNNEAUT, 28 miles further west, in the northeast corner of Ohio, stands on a creek of the same name, at its entrance into the lake. In 1840, the town contained 2,642 inhabitants, 3 churches, and 24 stores. It ex- ports large quantities of lumber, ^rain, pork, beef, flour^ butter, cheese, &e. WESTERN TOUR. 187 Ashtabula, Ohio, 13 miles from Conneaut, stands oh a stream of the same name, near its entrance into the lake. Faibport, Ohio, stands on the east side of Grand river, 161 miles from Buifalo. Its harbor for lake ves- sels is good, and it is connected with Painesville by a railroad of 3 miles long. The City of Cleveland, the emporium of northern Ohio, is 191 miles from Buffalo, 211 from Detroit, and 916 from Chicago. It is a port of entry, and next to Cincinnati, is the most important town in^lhe state. It stands at the mouth of the Cuyahoga river, and the northern termination of the Ohio canal, 307 miles from Portsmouth on the Ohio river. Packet boats for passen- gers run daily en this canal, reaching Portsmouth iu about three and a half days ; where steamboats are taken for Cinftinnatti, a further distance of 113 miles. It has aho a connection with Pittsburg, by means of the Ohio and Pennsylvania canals. The harbor of Cleveland is one of the best on Lake Erie, and it has a great and growing trade. The popu- lation in 1840, was 6,071, and is rapidly increasing. Black Ria^er, 2S miles from Cleveland, is a small vil- lage with a good harbor, and has considerable trade. Vermilion, 10 miles further is a village of some trade, situated at the mouth of a river of the same name. Huron, 20 miles further, also stands at the mouth of a river of the same name, with a good harbor. It con- tains about 1,200 inhabitants, 15 stores, andS or 10 ware, houses. Sandusky, 10 miles further, and 259 miles from Buf- falo, is a port of entry, and the capital of Erie county, Ohio. It stands on the shore of Sandusky bay, fronting the lake. The entire town is based ori a quarry of 188 "WESTERN TOUR. the finest building stone, which has been extensively use! in its edifices. During the season of navigation, eight or nine months, the wharves are thronged with steamboats and other vessels. It contains about 1,500 inhabitants, 3 splendid churches, 30 stores of different kinds, and a ship-yard, for building steamboats and other lake craft. Toledo, 50 miles from Sandusky, and 309 miles from Buflalo, stands on the west bank of Maumee river, near its entrance into Maamee bay, at the south end of Lake Erie. It contains a population of about 1,500; 40 or 50 stores, and several extensive manufacturing establish- ments. Steamboats run direct from Buffalo to this place, and Perrysburg, at the head of steamboat navigation on the Maumee river, 18 miles from the light-house on the lake sliore. ■•'A railroad is finished from Toledo to Adrian, 33 miles; and the Wabash and Erie canal is now completed from Lake Erie to La Fayette, a point on the Wabash, to Avhich steamboats ascend from the Ohio river. As boats cannot, however, ascend to La Fayette, except in com- paratively high water, the canal is to be continued down the Wabash 81 miles to Terre Haute, where the National road crosses the river Much is already done on the ca- nal south of La Fayette. ^'A traveller wishing to go from Buffalo to St. Louis, can do so by the above route in six days, after the lake and canal shall be in a navigable condition. It will re- quire 30 hours to reach Toledo, 83 hours to Terre Haute, and 30 hours by stage from thence to St. Louis across the beautiful prairies of Southern Illinois, making in all 143 hours, or six days. We trust that the packet boat com- panies on the Wabash and Erie canal will put down the WESTERN TOUR. 189 fare, as the saying is, ' to suite the times/ and all rea- isonable efforts will be made to induce a large share of the travel tVom Missouri, and the southern country, to ISTew-York and Boston, to take this route." Monroe, Michigan, 28 miles northwest of Toledo, stands on the River Raisin, 2^ miles from its mouth. A canal 100 feet wide, and 12 feet deep, extends from the city to the lake, through which steamboats and other ves- sels continually ply. Monroe contains a population of about 2,000 ; a court-house and jail, 2 banks, a United States land office, 7 churches, 20 or 30 stores, and several Isirge manufacturing establishments. Amherstburgh, Can. West, stands at the mouth of the Detroit river, about half way between Monroe and Detroit. It w^as known during the last war by the name of Maiden. On the opposite side of the river is the bat- tle ground of Brownstown^ where the Americans, under disadvantageous circumstances, and with a slight loss, routed the British forces, which lay in ambush, as the former were on their way to relieve the fort at French- town. The City of Detkoit, on Detroit river, 372 miles from Buffalo, and 675 miles from Chicago, by steamboat route, is unsurpassed for beauty and advantages of lo- cality, standing 30 feet above the water, with a fine view of the surrounding country. It is admirably situated for trade, and is fast rising in commercial importance. Th^ navigation of the river and lake is open 8 or 9 months in the year, during w^hich time steamboats and other vessels are almost hourly arriving and departing for the different ports on Lakes Erie, Huron, and Michigan. Detroit was first settled by the French in 1683 ; and now contains a population of about 10,000 inhabitants ; a state house of brick^ this being the capital of the state 190 WESTERN TOUR. of Michigan ; a city hall; 10 churches; 4 banking houses; a United States land office ; a theatre and museum ; 3 markets ; a state penitentiary ; a government magazine, and a mechanic's hall ; various charitable and other in- stitutions, besides 12 public schools. The Central Railroad of Michigan, "is now finished for 80 miles ; and when completed will extend to St. Jo- seph, on Lake Michigan, 194 miles from Detroit. There is now a line of public conveyance on this route to Chi- cago, running through in about 40 hours; 80 miles being by railroad cars ; 120 by stage ; and 69 by steamboat, across Lake Michigan. The Detroit and Pontiac Rail- road is 25 miles long. WiiMDSoa, on the opposite side of the river, in Cana- da, is the western termination of the stage route extend- ing to Hamilton and Queenston. This is a favorite route while navigation is closed. Lake St. Clair, 30 miles long and 24 wide, com- mences 7 miles above Detroit; it is 90 miles in circum- ference and 20 feet deep. Its banks are alluvial, and ele- vated 20 feet above the water. Clinton river enters from Michigan, and the Thames and other streams from the Canada side. From thence the river St. Clair, 40 miles long, extends northerly to Fort Gratiot, 70 miles from Detroit, and at the foot of Lake Huron, on the west side of St. Clair river. ♦ it was built in 1814, and consists of a stockade, enclos- ing a magazine, barracks, and other accommodations for a garrison of one battalion. Lake Huron, through which runs the boundary be- tween the United States and Canada, is about 218 miles long and 180 broad, though its irregular form renders it difficult to determine this with much precision. It re- ceives the waters of Lake Superior through the straits of WESTERN TOUR. 191 St. Mary, and of Lake Michigan, through the straits of Michilimackinac, and discharges its over surplus into Lake Erie, through the St. Clair and Detroit rivers. On the north part of this lake are the Manitoulin Islands, the largest of which is 80 miles long. Point aux Babquji-s, 130 miles from Detroit, is aS the south entrance of Saginaw bay, which extends many miles inland, toward the west. Thunder Bay, 75 miles further, contains a great number of islands, on one of which is a light-house. It is sometimes called Thousand Island Bay. Presqtje Isle, 30 miles, is situate on the northeast point ot the peninsula of Michigan, where the lake in- clines towards the west. Mackinac, 295 miles from Detroit, and 380 from Chicago, is delightfully situated on the southeast ex- tremity of an island of the same name in the straits of Michilimackinac. It contains a eourt-house and jail, 2 churches, 10 stores and several public houses. Fori Mackinac stands on a rocky eminence, 150 feet imme- diately above the village, which, together with the har- bor, it commands. This is a!delightful residence during warm weather, the air being freshened and cooled by the water and by" gentle winds, rendering the place a favorite resort for invalids. Here also is a great fishery; over 3,5000 barrels of trout and white fish being annualb' ex- ported ,- and it is the mart of an extensive fur trade, being for ages a favorite resort of Indians. A steamboat runs from Mackinac to Green Bay, at the head of which, in Wisconsin, is an important settlement. After leaving Mackinac, and entering Lake Michigan, several islands are passed in succession, the largest of which is Beaver Island, 192 WESTERN TOUR. The Manitou Islands, SO miles frcm Mackinac, lie on the east side of Lake Michigan, opposite the mouth of Green Bay, a large and important body of water. Lake Michigan, the largest lake which lies wholly in the United States, is about 330 miles long and 60 broad. Its waters are deep, and it afford? excellent fish, which are annually taken in large quantities and constitute an important item in the trade of that region. Mimvaukie, in Wisconsin, 300 miles from Mackinac, is on the west side of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of the MiJwaukie river. It contains a court-house and jail, a United States land office, 3 churches, and about 3,000 inhabitants. Steamboats and sail vessels ply between this place and Buffalo, and from its rich and extensive back country, it is likely to grow rapidly and become a place of much importance. Racine, 20 miles south of Milwaukie, and at the mouth of Root river, contains a court-house and jail, 10 or 12 stores and about 500 inhabitants. SouTHPORT, 12 miles further, on the west side of the lake, contains about 500 inhabitants and several stores. The City or Chicago, in Illinois, 48 miles still fur> ther south, is beautifully situated on level ground, on both sides of the river Chicago. It extends along the lake shore for a mile. An artificial harbor has been formed by the construction of piers on each side of the entrance of the river, for some distance into the lake. This is a rapidly growing and important place, with numerous steamboats and other vessels employed in ac- tive and profitable trade with Buffalo, and the various intermediate ports on the Upper Lakes. It contains 5 or 6,000 inhabitants ; the public buildings for Cook county ; a United States land office ; 8 churches, and several well kept public houses. No place in the Union has probably WESTERN TOUR. 193 exceeded Chicago ia its rapid growth and the increase of its trade. It is the central mart of the rich agricultural section of northern Illinois, and a part of Wicsonsin. The Michigan and Illinois Canal, now constructing from this place to the navigable waters of the Illinois river, will add much to its importance and give a new and powerful impulse to its growth, Michigan CitYj Indiana^ standing at the head of Lake Michigan, and at the mouth of Trail Creek, was laid out in 1835, It now contains about 800 inhabitants, and is no doubt destined to become a place of very consi- derable importance. St. Joseph, Michigan, opposite Chicago, stands at the mouth of the St. Joseph river, and is the proposed termination of the Central Railroad, running through Michigan from Detroit, a distance of about 200 miles. A line of steamboats, stages, and railroad cars, now run over this route, from Chicago to Detroit, affording a choice of conveyances, and great facilities for travel and correspondence. Green Bay is in the Territory of Wisconsin, Con- necting with Lake Michigan at the northwestern bend of the latter, by a wide opening, or straits, the Bay stretches southward about 100 miles, with a breadth varying from 15 to 30 miles, and lying nearly parallel with the north segment of the lake. Its broad entrance, for some 30 miles, is traversed by a succession of islands, called, from their position, Traverse Islands, The Bay is navi- gable by vessels of 200 tons burden, to its southern ex- tremity, or head, where it receives the waters of Fox river, at the mouth of which is a flourishing town, with a population of nearly 2,000, surrounded by a fertile and beautiful region, and where the United States have a Land Office, The head waters of the Fox river inter- i94 WESTERN TOUK, lock with those of the Wisconsin, at a very short dis- tance apart, and in vjery high freshets boats have often passed from one to the other. A short canal v^^ould make the connection perfect at all times, aad would thus give an unbroken navigation from the great lakes through Green Bay, Fox river and the Wisconsin, to the Missis- sippi at Prairie du Chien, 300 miles below the Falls of St. Anthony, and 600 miles above St. Louis. Green Bay contains several islands about midway its length, and at its northwestern curve it receives the Menominee river, which flows in from the northwest, and forms the boundary between the Wisconsin Territory and that por- tion of Michigan which lies between it and Lake Su- perior. Sault de St. Makie, or St. Mary's Falls, is the name of the settlement on the American shore of the St. Mary's River, about 15 miles below Lake Superior, at the rapids, which are three-fourths of a mile long, with a descent of some 23 feet. The entire fall of the river, which is 60 miles long, from Lake Superior to its en- trance into Lake Huron, is about 50 feet. It is contem- plated to cut a ship canal round the falls, or sault, (he river being navigable in all the rest of its course. Such a canal, by enabling steamers and all other lake vessels to pass into Lake Superior, and thus opening the naviga- tion of that great inland sea, would serve most efficiently to promote the settlement of Upper Michigan, and the regions bordering on Lake Superior, would enhance the value of the national domains, particularly of the cop- per and lead districts, and would be the pioneer of incal- culable benefits to the whole Union, as well as to a vast but secluded country, not yet accommodated with the means of constant and permanent intercourse and traffic JL. WESTERN TOUR. 195 with the great lake states, and the great markets of the sea-board. The settlement, or village of St. Mary, ife on the site of an old French fort, and is an elevated and pleasant po- sition. It contains a court-house, 3 churches, a trading house of the American Fur Company and several other stores. A post belonging to the United States, called Fort Brady, is also established here, and has a garrison of United States troops. The population, made up of Americans, Frenchmen, Indians and half-breeds, amounts usually to about 1,000, and occasionally a much greater number, when the Indians and other trappers and hun- ters come in with their peltry, for the purposes of trade, and to receive their annuities. Lake Superior, supposed to be the largest body of fresh water in the world, is about 380 miles long and 130 wide, and about 1,400 miles in circumference. It is sur- rounded mostly by a rocky and uneven coast, and con- tains many considerable islands, one of the largest of which. Isle Royal, is about 100 miles long and 40 miles broad. Its waters abound with fish, particularly trout, sturgeon, and white-fish, which are caught at all seasons and in large quantities. Of these the trout, weighing from 12 to 50 pounds, and the white fish, weighing often over 20 pounds, are perhaps the most important. The storms on this lake are almost equal to those on the Atlantic — its waves run as high, and its navigation is probably more dangerous. Its surface is elevated 625 leet above the level of the sea, and its mean depth is 900 feet. Its wa- ters are remarkably clear and transparent. It receives more than thirty rivers, and discharges its surplus into Lake Huron, by the straits, or river of St. Mary. The boundary lines between the United States and the British Possessions pass through the middle of this, as of the 196 WESTERN TOLR. Other great lakedy from its outlet, the St. Mary, most of the distance, but t(S>vard the westerly segment of the Isle Royal, giving that island to the United States, and then inclining southwesterly to the mouth of Pigeon river. The Pictured Rocks, on its south shore, toward the east end of the lake, are a great curiosity, forming an immense perpendicular wall 300 feet high and extending about 12 miles, with frequent and vast caverns along their base, into which waters roll, especially in storms, with a tremendous roar. At one place a considerable stream is thrown from them into the lake, by a single burst, from the height of 70 feet, and boats can pass between it and the rocks ,• at another place four enormous piers of rocks support a vast stratum, or entablature oi stone, covered with soil, on which stand trees of spruce and pine, some of which are 50 or 60 feet high. This is called the Doric Rock, or Arch, and it appears like an achievement of Art, though it is the work of Nature. THE FIIIST VESSEL WHICH NAVIGATED THE WESTERN LAKES. The followin 2 account, which we extract from Hunt's Merchants' Magazine, is translated from an old French vvork, printed in 1688, entitled, '* An Account of the Discovery of a very great Country situated in America," •by Father Hennepin. It will be read with interest : It now became necessary for La Sal(p, in furtherance of his object, to construct a vessel above the Falls of Niagara, sufficiently large to transport the men and goods necessary to carry on a profitable trade with the savages residing on the western lakes. On the 22d of January, 1679, they went six miles above the falls to the moulh ■of a small creek, and there built a dock convenient for Che construction of their vessel.* On the 26th of January, the keel and other pieces be- ing ready, La Salle requested Father Hennepin to drive the first bolt, but the modesty of the good father's pro- fession prevented. During the rigorous winter. La Salle determined to re- turn to Fort Frontenac ;t and leaving the dock in charge of an Italian named Chevalier Tuti, he started, accom- panied by Father Hennepin as far as Lake Ontario ; from whence he traversed the dreary forests to Frontenac on * There can be bxit little doubt Ihnt the place they selected for buildhig their bark, was the mouth of the Cayuga Creek, about six miles above the falls, (rovernor Cass s.iys " the vessel was launched at Erie;" Schoolcraft, m his journal, says, "near Buf- falo;" and the historian Bancroft locates the site at the mouth of Tonawanda creek. Hennepin s;iys the mouth of the creek was two leiigues above the great falls ; the mouth of the Tonawanda IS more than twice that distance, and the Cayuga is the on!|r stream that answers to the description. I Now Kiiigston, Canada. O 198 NAVIGATION 01* THE foot, with only two companions and a dog which drew his baggage on a sled, subsisting on nothing but parched corn, and even that failed him two days journey from the fort. In the mean time the building of the vessel went on under the suspicious eyes of the neighboring savages, although the most part of them had gone to war beyond Lake Erie. One of them, feigning intoxication, attempt^ ed the life of the blacksmith, who defended himself suc- cessfully with sUfkd hot bar of iron. The timely warning of a friendly sqaw averted the burning of their vessel on the stocks, which was designed by the savages. The work-' men were almost disheartened by frequent alarms, and would have abandoned the work had they not been cheered by the good father, who represented the great advantage their perseverance would afford, and how much their success would redound to the glory of God. These and other inducements accelerated the work, and the vessel wassoonready to be launched, though not entirely finished. Chanting Te Deum, and firing three guns, they commit-- ted her to the river amid cries of joy, and swung their hammocks in security from the wild beasts and still more dreaded Indians. When the Senecas returned from their expedition tliey were greatly astonished at the floating fo?t, "which struck terror among all the savages who lived on the great lake* and rivers within fifteen hundred miles." Hennepin as' cended the river in a bark canoe with one of his com- panions as far as Lake Erie. They twice pulled the ca-' noe up the rapids, and sounded the lake for the purpose' of ascertaining the depth. He reported that with a fa- vorable north or northwest wind the vessel could ascend to the lake, and then sail without difficulty, over its whole extent. Soon after the vessel vras launched in the current of Niagara about foar amd a half miles froBfti the WESTERN LAKES. 199 lake. Hennepin left it for Fort Frontenac, and returning with La Salle and two other fathers, Gabriel and Zeno- be Mambre, anchored in the Niagara the 30th July, 1679. On the 4th of August, they reached the dock where the ship was built, which he calls distant eighteen miles from Lake Ontario, and proceeded from thence in a bark canoe, to their vessel, which they found at anchor three miles from the " beautiful Lake Erie." The vessel was of 60 tons burthen, completely rigged, and found with all the necessaries, arms, provisions and merchandize ; it had seven small pieces of cannon on board, two of which were of brass. There was a griffinj flying at the jib boom, and an eagle above. There were also all the ordinary ornaments and other fixtures which usually grace a ship of war. They endeavored many times to ascend the current of the Niagara into Lake Erie without success, the wind not being strong enoiigh. Whilst they were thus detained, La Salle employed a few of his men in clearing some land on the Canadian shore, opposite the vessel, and in sowing some vegetable seeds for the benefit of those who might inhabit the place. At length the wind being favorable, they lightened the vessel by sending most of the crew on shore, and with the aid of their sails and ten or a dozen men at the tow- lines, ascended the current into Lake Erie. Thus on the 7th of August, 1679, the first vessel set sail on the un- tried waters of Lake Erie. They steered southwest, after having chanted their never failing Te Deum, and dis- charged their artillery in the presence of a vast number of Seneca warriors. It had been reported to our voya- gers that Lake Erie was full of breakers and sand banks, whic h rendered a safe navigation impossible ; they there- fore kept the lead going, sounding from time to time. 200 NAVIGATION OF THK After sailing, without difficulty, through Lake Erie, they arrived on the 11th of August at the mouth of the Detroit river, sailing up v^hich they arrived at Lake St. Clair, to vi^hich they gave the name it bears. After be- ing detained several days by contrary v^'inds at the bot- tom of the St. Clair river, they at length succeeded in entering Lake Huron, on the 23d of August, chanting Te Deum through gratitude for a safe navigation thus far. Passing along the eastern shore of the lake, they sailed with a fresh and favorable wind until evening, when the wind suddenly veered, driving them across Saginaw Bay, (Sacinaw.) The stormed raged until the 24th, and was succeeded by a calm, which continued until next day noon, (25th,) when they pursued their course until mid- night. As they doubled a point which advanced into the lake, they were suddenly struck by a furious wind, which forced them to run behind the cape for safety. On the 26th, the violence of the storm compelled them to send down their top-masts and yards, and to stand in, for they could find neither anchorage or shelter. It was then the stout heart of La Salle failed him, the whole crew fell upon their knees to say their prayers and prepare for death, except the pilot, whom they could not compel to follow their example, and who on the contra- ry " did nothing all that time but curse and swear against M. La Salle, who had brought him thither to make him perish in a nasty lake, and lose the glory he had acquired by his long and happy navigation on the ocean." On the 27th, favored with less adverse winds, they arrived dur- ing the night at Michillimackinack and anchored in the bay, where they report six fathoms of water and a clay bottom. This bay they state is protected on the south- west, west and northwest, but open to the south. The WESTERN LAKES, 201 savages were struck dumb with astonishment at the size of their vessel, and the noise of their guns. Here they regaled themselves on the delicious trout, which th€y described as being from 50 to 60 lbs. in weight and as affording the savages their principal subsistence. On the 2d of September, they left Mackinao, entered Lake Michigan, (IlJinois,) and sailed 40 leagues to an islani at the mouth of the Bay of Puara, (Green Bay.) From this place La Salle determined to send back the ship laden with furs to Niagara. The pilot and five men embarked in her, and on the 10th she fired a gun and set sail on her return with a favorable wind. Nothing more was heard from her, and she undoubtedly foundered in Lake Huron, with all on board. Her cargo was rich, and valued at 60,000 livres. Thus ended the first voyage of the first ship that sailed over the Western Lakes. What a contrast is presented between the silent waves and unbroken forests which wit- nessed the course of that adventurous bark, and the busy hum of commerce which now rises from the fertile bot- toms, and the thousand ships and smoking palaces which now furrow the surface of those inland seas ! The first vessel bearing the American flag upon Lake Erie, was the sloop Detroit, of 70 tons, built in 1796. In 1797 the schooner Wilkinson, of Detroit, was built; her capacity was 80 tons. In 1300 the Good Intent, of 35 tons was built ; she was wrecked in 1806. In 1799, the government built the " John Adams" and "Tracy." In 1305, the schooner Nancy was built by the United States at Black Rock. In 1S06, the " Contractor" was built by Porter, Bar- ton & Co. 292 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. la 1810, the " Catherine" was built. In 1818, the first steamboat, " Walk- in- the- Water," was built at Black Rock ■ at which time there were, in ail, about thirty sail of vessels on the Upper Lakes. In 1824, two new steamboats were built. In 1825, three more were added ; from this period to 1832, four steamboats were built, and the whole number of steamboats in 1841, was upwards of fifty, and the number of sailing vessels little short of three hundred. We copy from the Buffalo Commercial Adverti- ser of May 3, 1843, the following : STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. The present month completes a quarter of a century since the first steamer was launched upon the western lakes. During that period changes of vast magnitude have been efl'ected by the application of the mighty agent steam. Dense forests which frowned from the margin of these great lakes have been felled to give place to thriving villages, and the moody aboriginal occupant who gazed with wonderment at the approach of the ponderous vehi- cle has become extinct, or is known only as a wanderer beyond the limits of the Mississippi. Changes like these have characterized the introduction of steam upon the lakes, and the independent, inquiring spirit which so distinctly marks the habits of the people of this country, has kept pace with the progress of steam westwardly, and developed the fertility and abounding resources of the prairies, until they have become the granary of the world. Of those who early participated in the effort to build up this new commerce, but few remain ; still they have vivid recollections of the undertaking, attended as it was by a heavy outlay and much solicitude for its consumma- STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 203 tion. To them, if not to these now actively engaged in its prosecution, a list of steamers down to the present season must be interesting, and we have at no inconside- rable time and trouble, been enabled to make up the ta- ble below. In arranging it we have endeavored to be correct, but may have fallen into mistakes, in consequence of the want of official data. Should such be the case, those at the west who have records as authority, will make corrections and call attention in some suitable man- ner, as we ^re desirous to obtain such information. The list of boatSj^with place and date of building, together with their tonnage, will be found annexed. NAME. TONS, CLASS Low TONS, Walk-in-the- Water, . 342 Superior,.. 300 Low Chippewa, 100 Low Henry Clay, 348 Low Pioneer, 230 High Niagara, 180 Low William Penn, 275 Low Enterprise, 250 High Peacock, 120 High Newburyport, 75 High Thompson, 242 Low Ohio, 187 High Adelaide, 230 Low Gratiot, ....'. 63 High Pennsylvania, 395 High New-York, 325 High Brady, 100 High Uncle Sam, 280 Low Perseverance, ...... 50 High Washington, (1st)... 609 Low Michigan, 472 Low Daniel Webster, .... 358 Low Detroit, 240 High Lady of the Lake,. . . 60 High Gov. Marcy, 161 Low North America, 362 High Newberry, . 170 High Delaware, 170 High WHERE AND WHEN BUILT. Black Rock,. . . 1818 Buffalo, 1822 " 1824 Black Rock,. . . 1825 1829 " ... 1826 Erie, " Cleveland, . Barcelona, . Erie, Huron, 1830 L. Sandusky,. . '' Chippewa, ... " Charleston, ... 1831 Erie, 1832 Black Rock,. . . " Detroit, " Gros Isle, " Erie, '' Huron, 1833 Detroit, " Black Rock,... " Toledo, '' Mt. Clemens,,. *' Black Rock,. . . '' Conneaut,. . 9. . " Palmer, " HuroDj , *' 204 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. NAME. TOKS. CLASS. Victorj', 77 Low Gen. Porter, 342 Low Jefferson, = 428 Low Com. Perry, 352 High Monroe. = 341 Hisfh Mazeppa 130 High Sandusky, 377 Low Minnessetunk, » 250 Low Jackson, 50 High Jack Downing, 80 High Little Western, 60 High Kobert Fulton, 308 High Columbus,.., 391 High Charles To wnsend,. . 312 Low United States, 366 High Chicago, 166 High W. F. P. Taylor, 95 High Thames 160 High DeWitt Clinton, 493 High Julia Palmer, 300 Low Little Erie. 149 Low Barcelona, 102 Low United 37 High St. Clair, 250 High Don Quixotie, 80 High Crockett, 18 High Cincinnati, 116 High Illinois, 755 Low Rochester, 472 High Madison, 630 Hisjh Cleveland, 530 Low Wisconsin, 700 Low Erie, 497 Low Constellation, 483 Low Bunker Hill, 457 High Constitution, 443 High New England, 416 Low Milwaukie, 401 Low Anthony VVayne,. . . 390 High Macomb, 101 High Star, 128 High Commerce, 80 High Mason, 33 High Greet We.stern,. 780 High WHERE AND WHEN BCILT, Buffalo, 1834 Black Hock,. .. " Erie, " Perrysburgh, . . " Monroe, " Buffalo, " Sandusky, *' Goderich, " Mt. Clemens,.. " Sandusky, *' Chatham, " Clevelani.... 1835 Huron,.. T^. '* Buffalo, " Huron, " St. Josephs,. . . " Silver Creek,.. ** Chatham, " Huron, 1836 Buffalo, " Detroit " DunviUe, " Detroit, " Sandusky, .... '' Toledo, ", Brunersburgh, . '* Sandusky, " Detroit, 1837 Richmond, .... " Erie,...*. *' Huron, " Conneaut, " Erie, " Charleston,.... " Conneaut, " Black Rock,. . . ♦' Grand Island,. *' Perrysburgh. . . " Mt. Clemens,.. " Belvidere, '* Sandusky, " Grand Rapids,. " Huron, 1838 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 205 NAME. TONS. Buffalo, 613 Chesapeake, 412 Vermilion, 385 Lexington, 363 Fairport, . , . , 259 Red Jacket, 148 Vance, 75 James Allen, 258 Washington (2d) , . . . 3S0 Dole, 162 Trowbridge, 52 Marshall, 51 Owashenonk, . .. =, — 45 Patronage, 56 Gen. Scottj..,. 240 Chantauque, 161 Brothers, 150 Kent, 180 Huron, 140 Harrison, (1st) ..... 63 Missouri, 612 Harrison, (2d) 326 Waterloo, 98 Minos, 400 Indiana, 534 Franklin, 231 Nile, 600 Union, . .^ 64 Caroline,' (re-built,) . 46 CLASS. WHERE AND WHEN TUILT. Low Buffalo, 1838 Low Maumee City,, '* High Vermilion, .... *' Low Charleston, '' High Fairport, " Low Grandlsland,. . *' High Perrysburgh, . . '' Low Chicago, *' High Ashtabula, " High Chicago, ... '^ High Kalamazoo,... '* High Perrysburgh, . . '' Hish Grand Haven,. " High St. Joseph, ... '' High Huron, 1839 Low Buffalo, '* High Chatham, ..... '* High Chatham...... '' High Newport, ...... " High Erie, . ' •* High Vermilion, 1840 High Maumee City,. '•' Low Black Reck,. . . '* Chippewa, .... '^ Toledo, 1S4I Aigonac, 1842 Detroit, 1843 Black Rock,. . . '* Low Low High Low High Low Ogdensburgh,. . 1824 Besides the above list, there are a few small boats of which nothing is known other than their names. Amcn» these are t'.ie Pantanguishane, Cynthia, Pontiac,and Phe- nomenon, making with those above*given, an aggregate of 27,000 tons, at a total cost of $3,510,000. One hundred and thirty dollars a ton being what w^e deem true data^ for building and fitting out this description cf vessels. In examining the progress of steam as applied in propel- ling vessels on the lakes, we are struck with the very small number of disasters when compared with other sec. tions of the country, especially on the western waters^ 206 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. i In the whole period of 25 years, there have been but four explosions which might be termed serious. It is true there are other disasters to record, whose calamitous de- tails are too freshly impressed upon the publicmind. The following tabular view presents both these classes : EXPLOSIONS. LIVES LOST. BURNED. LIVES LOST. Peacock, Sept. 1830, 15 Washington, 2d, Je. '38 50 Adelaide, June. 1830,. . . 3 Erie, August, 1841, ..250 Erie, August, 1840, 6 Vermilion, Nov. 1842, 5 Perry, iwuce in 1835,... 6 Caroline, (wilful).... 5 Total, 30 310 The incidental disasters, such as collisions, wrecks, &c. are as follows: Walk- in- the- Water, wrecked in gale in our offing, Nov. 1, 1821, total loss. Washington, (1st) wrecked in a gale near Long Point, 1833. She was a splendid new boat, cost $60,000, and the first season out — totally lost — one m.^n drowned. Delaware, totally lost in a gale near Chicago, in 1834. Crockett, totally lost in a gale near St. Joseph, 1834. Detroit, ashore near South- port, on Lake Michigan, 1836 — total. Adelaide, ashore in a gale on Lake Michigan, 1840 — totally lost. Taylor, at Michigan City, 1838, totally lost. Don Quixotte, lost in a gale on Lake Huron, 1836. Thames, burned by the '^ Patriots" at Windsor, in 1838. Webster, burned to the water's edge while lying up in our harbor, 11th Jan. 1835. The Taylor took fire near the mouth of Cattarau- gus Creek, in the autumn of 1836, but the flames were subdued in time to save the boat. One hand jumped overboard and was drowned. Beside the explosions of the Perry, she has had two collisions w^th other vessels, in one of which a man was killed. The first season the Great Western came out, she was burned (Sept. 1st, 1839) while lying at Detroit. She had been to Chicago, and on returning across Lake St. Clair took fire, but the STATISTICS OF STEAMERS- 207 flames were apparently extinguished until reaching De- troit, when they burst forth anew and consumed the boat almost down to the water's edge. The Cynthia, a Cana- dian ferry-boat, was burned near Maiden in Oct. 1838. Minnessetunk sunk by collision with the Erie, near De- troit. She has been raised, enlarged, and is now known as the Goderich. Little Western, burned at Detroit last season. Macomb, ashore in a gale, mouth of Detroit ri- ver, last fall. Niagara, by collision with some other boat, at Huron. Ohio, sunk at Toledo, in 1837. Little Erie, lost in the ice last fall near Detroit, total. The Sandusky, consumed by fire while lying up in our har- bor last February. Of the old boats which have gradually gone to decay, we note the following: Chippewa, Henry Clay, Enter- prise, and Pioneer, in this harborj Peacock and Pennsyl- vania at Erie; Marcy and Brady at Detroit; Thompson at Huron; Newberry at Maumee city; Perseverance at Monroe; Uncle Sam at Charleston, with some of the smaller boats whose whereabouts are not distinctly known. Many of the larger class of boats, but seldom used of late, are laid up in ordinary at the places nam- ed: Webster, Townsend, New- York, Star, and Monroe at this port; Jefferson at Erie; United States at Cleve- land; Michigan at Detroit; Milwaukie at Milwaukie. The Porter is now known as the Toronto, in the service of the Canadian authorities; the Minos is the armed steamer also in the same employ. The Superior was long since dismantled and converted into a ship, and is the only vessel of that description now on the lakes, the Julia Palmer having been converted into a steamer, and the Milwaukie lost in the disastrous gale of November last, upon Lake Michigan. The Cincinnati, J. Downing, Barcelona, and Mazeppa have also been converted into 208 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. sail craft. The latter is known as the schooner General Scott. The St. Clair was originally known as the Sagi. naw, Rhode Island, &c. of only 160 tons. During the past winter she was remodeled and enlarged at Detroit, and now rates 250 ;tons. The Wisconsin was originally 490 tons, but now being lengthened sixty feet which will add to her tonnage at least enough to meet the figures given in the table. The Marshall is now running on Lake Ontario, having passed through the Welland canal. The Caroline, whose destruction filled so large a por- tion of public notice, v^'^as originally known as the Caro- lina, and is believed to have been built at Charleston, S. C. at a very early date, as she was rebuilt at Ogdens- burgh as given in the table. She was very strong built, of Norway pine and copper fastened. Before passing down the St. Lawrence, she ran a couple of seasons on the Hudson, between Albany and Troy, when her guards were shipped so as to admit her through the Erie canal. The date of her destruction is at Schlosser, Niagara Co. N. Y., 2ath December, 1337. The number of boats yet remaining of the whole once in commission on Lake Erie and the other upper lakes, is about sixty, with an aggregate of 17,000 tons. Of these, some thirty-five only are used v/hen the consolida- tion is in existence. Of the whole number of boats put in commission du- ring the above period, only ten were built and owned in Canada. The first steamer known to be upon Lake Michigan was the Henry Clay. In August, 1827, an excursion of pleasure was made in her to Green Bay, where Governor Cass was holding a treaty with the Winnebagoes. After the treaty was concluded. Gov. C. and suite returned in the Clay. From that period to 1832, some of the boats STATISTICS OF STEAMERS 209 went to Green Bay, but no further. On the breaking ouc of the Black Hawk war, several of the larger boats were chartered by government, to convey troops to the disaffected territory, and Chicago for the first time was greeted by the sight of one of those strange visiters. The building of the propeller Hercules is the com- mencement of a new era in lake navigation, and her own. ers predict for that description of vessels a large share of the carrying trade, especially upon the Upper Lakes. The H. is 275 tons burthen, 137 feet long, 25 feet beam, 8 feet hold, and put together in the strongest manner. She has 14 state-rooms, 6feet square, with sufficient addition- al space for the erection of 46 berths more, and from the peculiar symmetry of the H. she will doubtless afford ample accommodations for families emigrating. Her space below for storage is large, having almost the entire hull of the vessel appropriated for that purpose. The peculiar feature, however, of the Hercules, is her engine and its auxiliaries. On examining the machinery, all are struck with the infinite compactness of the steam appa= ratus, and its perfect simplicity, the whole^weighing but fifteen tons. The engine is simple and very small, lies close upon the kelson, and fills but a space of six feet square. It is one of Ericsson's patent, was made at Au- burn and is computed to be of 50 horse power. We might here remark that the weight of an engine and boilers for one of our largest steamers is estimated at from 60 to 70 tons — the dead weight of which a propeller escapes carrying. The paddles are made of boiler iron, I inch thick, 18 inches broad by 30, and are placed on two long wrought iron shafts, protruding from either side of the stern post. The diameter of the paddles are 6 feet 4 inches. From the superb manner in which the Hercules is built and fitted out, having cost nearly $20,000 •210 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. dollars, it is apparent that the enterprising proprietors are determined to give the experiment a full and fair trial. Another boat of the same tonnage, for the same owners. is now being built at Perrysburgh, and will be out next month. The Cleveland propeller was launched on the 22d ult. and the fourth vessel of the kind is rapidly pro- gressing toward completion at Chicago. Ten cords of wood, at a cost of $17, will suffice the propeller per diemj while one of our largest steamers will consume two cords per hour, at a cost of $80 a day. Some of the steamers even exceed this calculation by 33 per cent TOUR THROUGH CANADA. The most usual mode of conveyance from Buffalo to the Falls of Niagara, and thence into Canada, is by rail- road on the American side of Niagara river to the Falls, thence to Levviston, where commodious steamers leave several times daily for the different ports on Lake Ontario. There is also another very desirable mode of convey- ance, by steamboat, descending the Niagara river, from Buffalo to Chippewa, Canada j thence by railroad, on the Canadian shore, passing in full view of the Falls, to Queenston, where the British steamboats land and re- ceive passengers daily, during the season of navigation* As the steamboat leaves Buffalo, on the latter route, it affords a fine view of Lake Erie and both shores of the river. On the Canada side, the first object of interest is the ruins of old Fort Erie, captured by the Americans^ July 3, 1814. It is situated at the foot of the lake, oppo-^ site to the site of a strong fortress which the United States government are now erecting, a little north from Buffalo toward Black Rock. Waterloo, in Canada, 3 miles from Buffalo and op-« posite Black Rock, with which it is connected by a steam ferry, is handsomely situated on the West side of Niagara river, which is here about half a mile wide. GraJtd Island, belonging to the Americans, is passed to the left in descending the river, and is a large aad Valuable tract of fine land, mostly covered with a heavy forest, which abounds with white oak of a superior quali= ty for ship timber, great quantities of which, within a few years, have been sent to market on the sea-board, by the Erie canaL 212 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. Navy Island, belonging to the British, is next passed. This island obtained great notoriety in the fall and winter of 1837-8, when it w^as occupied by the ^'patriots," as they were styled, during the troubles in Canada. The steamer Caroline was destroyed on the night of Decem- ber 29th, 1837, while lying at Schlosser's Landing, on the American shore, having been engaged in ti-ansport- ing persons to and from the island, which was soon after evacuated. Opposite Navy Island, on the Canada side near Chip- pewa, is the house in which Capt. Usher resided when murdered in 1838. It is supposed he fell by the hands of some of the deluded patriots. Chippewa, 20 miles below Buffalo, and 2 miles above the Falls, is on the west side of Niagara river, at the mouth of a creek of the same name, which is navigable to Port Robinson, some 8 or 10 miles west ; the latter place being on the line of the Welland canal. The vil- lage of Chippewa contains a population of about 800 souls. It has obtained a place in history on account of the bloody battle which was fought near it in the war of 1812, between the United States and Great Britain. The battle was fought on the 5th of July, 1814, on the plains a short distance south of the Chippewa Landing. The American forces were commanded by Major Gen. Jacob Brown, and the British, by Major General Riall, who, after an obstinate and sanguinary fight, was defeated with considerable loss. At Chippewa commences a railroad, extending to Queenston, a distance of 10 miles. Steamboats continue the line of travel from both ends of this road, thus fur- nishing an interesting and speedy conveyance between Lakes Erie and Ontario. TOUR THROUGA CANADA. 213 On arriving in the vicinity of the Falls of Niagara, •on the route from Chippev^a to Queenston, the railroad cars stop opposite the Pavilion, a favorite public house kept by Mr. Chrystler. About half a mile below, near the ferry, is situated the Clifton House, a well kept hotel. The site of this house was chosen as giving the best view of both the American, and Canadian or Horse Shoe Falls, which are seen from the pia/./.as and every window in front. In addition to the Falls, there are other points of at- traction on the Canada side of the river. The collection of curiosities at the Museum, and the Camera Obscura, which gives an exact and beautiful, though miniature image of the falls, are well worthy of a visit. The burn- ing spring. 2 miles above the falls, is also much fre- quented ; and the rides to the battle grounds in this vi- cinity make an exhilarating and very pleasant excursion. Drummondsville, one mile west of the Falls, and situated on Lundy's Lane, is celebrated as the scene of another sanguinary engagement between the American and British forces, July 25, 1814. The following is a brief, though correct account of the engagement. " On the afternoon of the above day^ while the American army was on their march from Fo?'t George toward Fort Erie, ascending the west bank of the river, their rear guard under the immediate command of Gen. Scott, were attacked by the advanced guard of the British army under Gen. Riall, the British having been reinforced after their defeat at Chippevi^a, on the 5th of the same month. This brought on a general conflict of the most obstinate and deadly character. As soon as attacked, Gen. Scott advanced with his division, amounting to about 3,000 men, to the open ground facing the heights occupied by the main British army, where were planted P 214 TOUR THROUGH CASTADA. several heavy pieces of cannon. Between 8 and 9 o'clock in the evening, on the arrival of reinforcements to both armies, the battle became general and raged for several hours, M'ith alternate success on both sides ; each army evincing the most determined bravery and resistance. The command of the respective forces was now assumed by Maj. Gen. Brown, and Lieut. Gen. Drummond, each having under his command a well disciplined ariTiy. The brave (American) Col. Miller, was ordered to advance and seize the artillery of the British, which he effected at the point of the bayonet in the most gallant manner. Gen. Riall, of the English army was captured, and the possession of the battle ground contested until near mid- night, when 1,700 men being either killed or wounded, the conflicting armies, amounting altogether to about 6,000 strong, ceased the deadly conflict, and for a time the bloody field was left unoccupied, except by the dead and wounded. When the British discovered that the Americans had encamped one or two miles distant, they returned and occupied their former position. Thus ended one of the most bloody conflicts that occurred during the last war ; and while each party boasted a victory, alto- gether too dearly bought, neither was disposed to renew the conflict." QuEENsroN, situated 8 miles below the Falls, and T miles above the entrance of Niagara river into Lake On- tario, lies directly opposite the village of Lewiston, with which it is connected by a ferry. It contains about 450 inhabitants, 50 dwelling houses, 1 Episcopal, 1 Scotch Presbyterian, and 1 Baptist church, 6 taverns, 4 stores and 3 warehouses. This place is also celebrated as be- ing the scene of a deadly strife between the American and British forces, Oct. 13, 1812. The American troops actually engaged in the fight, were commanded by Gen. TOUR THROUGH CAKADA. 215 Solomon Van Rensselaer, and both the troops and their commander greatly distinguished themselves for their bravery although ultimately overpowered by superior num- bers. Tii attempting to regain their own side of the river many of the Americans perished, the whole loss in killed^ wounded and prisoners amounting to at least 1,000 men. Gen. Brock, the British commander was killed in the middle of the fight, while leading on his men. A monu- ment stands on the heights, near where he fell, erected to his memory. It is now very much dilapidated, hav- ing beea shattered by gunpowder, April 17, 1840 ; an in- famous act said to have been perpetrate'd by a ruffian of tlie name of Lett, concerned in the insurrection of 1837. The railroad to Chippewa, terminates on the south of Queenston village, near the laonument. Passengers are taken from the depot in c-arriages to the steamboat land- ing, a short distance below, W'here steamboats depart s.nd arrive several times daily, during the summer months. Stage Route through Canada from Queenston to Detboit. The distance by th« above route is 260 miles. Usual time^ 2|days; fare $13.00. Stages leave Queenston, (opposite Lewiston,) everyday at 8 o'clock A. M., passing through St. Catharines, Hamilton, Brantford, Woodstock, Lon- don and Chatham, to Windsor, opposite Detroit. Leav- ing Windsor every morning at 8 o'clock, returning by the same route. By the above arrangement, a direct line is formed be- tween Albaay and Chicago, a distance of 925 miles ; through in 8 days. The village of Niagaba, is advantageously situated on the Canada side, at the entrance of the river into Lake On- tario, directly opposite Fort Niagara, on the American 216 TOUR THROUGH CANADA, side. It contains about 2,000 inhabitants ; a court-house and jail ; 1 Episcopal, 1 Presbyterian, 1 Methodist, and 1 Roman Catholic church } 10 hotels and taverns, and 20 stores of different kinds. This is the most noted place in Canada West, for building steamboats and other craft navigating Lake Ontario. Here is a Dock Yarsl with a marine railway and foundery attached, capable of mak. ing machinery of the largest description, and giving em- ployment to a great number of men. It is owned by the " Niagara Dock Company." The Race Course at this place is in high repute among the sporting gentry ; and the spring and fall races are numerously attended. Fort Gsorge, situated a short distance south or up- stream from the mouth of the river, is now in ruins. This was the scene of a severe contest in 1813, in which the Americans were victorious, A new fort has been erected on the point of land at the mouth of the river, directly opposite old Fort Kiiagaraon the American side. The new fortification is called Fort Massasauga. The whole frontier on the Canada side, from Fort George to Fori Erie, opposite Buffalo, was occupied by the American army in 1814, when occurred a succession of battles of the most determined and brilliant character. Here the British regulars were met face to face at the point of the bayonet, and vanquished on their own ground. The Welland Canal, which unites the waters of Lakes Erie and Ontario, is a work of great magnitude. It enters Lake Ontario a few miles west of Niagara. The entire work is now being enlarged, and though it will probably not be completed till 1846, it will be navi- gable in 1845, on the enlarged plan. At present there are 32 locks ; but when the enlarged work is finished there will only be 22, with a lift of from 12^ to 14 feet. TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 217 The locks on the old canal are made of wood ; the new ■ones are of granite, made in the best manner. Those at each entrance from the lakes are to be 185 feet long and 45 feet wide ; the other twenty, 150 feet long and 46^ feet wide. The length of the canal will be 28 miles. The vessels which will pass through the canal are to be 145 feet long and 26 feet wide, including all projections. The schooners will generally be of the burthen of 450 tons. It is expected that the chief portion of the trade will be done by the new fashioned steamers called " pro- pellers." i\.t Port Maitland there is to be a graving dock, which will be of importance both to the naval and mer- cantile interest. There are several places of growing importance on the line of the Weiland canalj of which Port Maitlanb, Port Robinson, and St. Catharine's, are the most noted . Hamilton, 50 miles west of Niagara, stands on Bur- lington Bay, at the head of Lake Ontario, and 42 miles from Toronto. It contains 4 or 5,000 inhabitants; a court-house and jail, being the seat of justice for the Gore district; 6 churches of different denominations; several well kept hotels, and a large number of stores. Its busi- ness is increasing, and it has one of the largest and most secure harbors on Lake Ontario, being formed by Bur- lington Bay, which is so much land-locked as to be well sheltered. The approach to the bay is through an artifi- cial canal across Burlington beach. Steamboats leave Hamilton daily for Toronto and Lewiston, and connect with other lines of travel. Stages also depart, daily, for Windsor, opposite Detroit, and Queenston, DuNDAs, near the head of Burlington Bay, 5 miles west of Hamilton, is a place of considerable trade. It contains about 1.500 inhabitants, and possesses a fine 218 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. v.-ater pi-ivilege, on which are already erected several ex- tensive flouring mills, and other manufacturing establish- ments. The Des Jardin Canal, 2 mi\es long and navi- gable, connects it with Burlington bay and Lake On- tario. The City of 1'oronto, the third place in population and importance in Canada, is delightfully situated on a beautiful bay. formed by a low sandy peninsula called Gibraltar Point. It is 180 miles west of Kingston, and 45 miles east of Hamilton by steamboat route. Toronto signifies in the Indian language, a. place of meeting. In 1793, when surveyed by the elder Bouchette, under the orders of Gov. Simcoe, two Massasauga families were the only inhabitants it contained, and the harbor was a resort for numerous wild fowl. It was incorporated as a city in 1834, when it contained 9,254 inhabitants. In 1842 it had increased to 15,436, and now probably num- bers 18.000 inhabitants, having doubled its population in ten years. Within a few years it has greatly improved in appear- ance and in trade ; a large number of elegant buildings have been recently erected, and it now presents as neat an aspect as any place in Canada. The streets are paved, and the city is well lighted with gas. Waterworks are also in progress, which Avhen completed will afford every family a bountiful supply of pure water, which heretofore has been taken from the lake and distributed by cans. The streets cross each other at right angles, and King-street, the great mart for merchandize, is near a mile long, mostl}'' built in a substantial manner with brick stores or dwellings. Toronto now contains a Parliament House and Govern- ment Offices, mostly unoccupied ; the College of Upper Canada, surrounded by spacious grounds ; the Canada Company's Land Office; a court-house and jail, city hall TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 219 and market place, a lunatic asylam, 14 churches of dif« ierent denominations; 5 banking houses and several well kept hotels, the principal of which are the North Ameri- can, facing the hay, and Stone's Hotel in King-streef. The public houses generally adopt the English custom of giving a lunch at noon and dining late, furnishing a sup- per in the evening. The population are decidedly English in their appearance and feelings. The prejudice against the Americans, or Yankees, is easily perceived and easi- ly accounted for, as most of the inhabitants are exceed- ingly loyal, have never visited " the States," and look upon their neighbors as a set of lawless republicans or disorganizers ; forming their opinions from the character of the patriots and sympathisers who hover on the fron- tier of both countries. The Old Garrison as it is called, is situated on the lake shore, commanding the entrance to the harbor ; and soldiers' barracks are to be seen in different parts of the city. Toronto, formerly called Little York, was cap- tured by the Americans in 1813, when Gen. Pike the American commander, was killed by the explosion of the magazine which was fired by the English on their re- treat from the fort. The steamboats which arrive and depart daily from the harbor during the season of navigation, from April to December, add much to the business and life of To- ronto. A mail stage also leaves daily for Kingston on the ^st ; Lake Simcoe on the north, and Hamilton on the west, all communicating with other lines of travel to different places in Canada. THE FOLLOWING ARE THE PKINCIPAL STEAMBOAT LINES LEAVING TORONTO. A steamboat leaves Toronto for Hamilton, daily, Sun- days excepted, during the seasoa of navigation, stopping S20 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. at the intermediate ports. Distance 45 miles. Usual fare (cabin passage) one dollar. Deck passage, 50 cents, A steamer leaves Toronto daily for Niagara and Lew- iston. Distance 45 miles. Usual fare $1.50 for cabiit passage. The mail line of steamers run daily, (Sundays except- ed) between Toronto and Kingston, stopping at Port Hope and Cobourg. Distance through, 180 miles. Usual fare $5.00 for cabin passage, including meals. Deck passage $2.00. A line of steamboats run between Toronto and Roch- ester daily. Distance 100 miles. Usual fare for cabiis passage $3, including meals. Deck passage, $1.50. The American line of steamboats, running from Lew- iston to Ogdensburgh, also touch at Toronto and Kingston. N. B. All the above rates of fare are subject to change, owing to opposition lines. Stage Route from Toronto to Queenston". Miles. To Etobicoke, 9 Cooksville, 7 16 Credit, 4 20 Trafalgar, i . . 3 23 Palermo, 7 30 Nelson, , 5 35 Hamilton, 13 48 Stony Creek, 7 55 Grimsby, 10 65 Beamsville, 6 71 St. Catharines, 14 8^ Queenston, 15 100 Stage Route from Toronto to Holland Landing. To York Mills, 7 Thorne Hill 7 14 Richmond Hill,. 3 17 New Market, 15 32 Holland Landing, 4 36 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 221 A steamer leaves Holland Landing 3 times a week, dur- ing the season of navigation, for different landings on Lake Simcoe. • Royal Mail Route from Toronto to Kingston. p Place From From rt,ACES. jQ place. Toronto. Kingstoa. Toronto, 180 Port Hope, 65 65 115 Cobourg 7 72 108 Fifty Mile Point, 58 130 50 False Duck's Island,.. . 20 150 30 Kingston, 30 180 Stage Route from Toronto to Kingston, Usual fare through $10. Miles. To Post's, 26 Bowmanville, 17 43 Hope, 17 60 Cobourg, 13 73 Colborne, 16 89 Bullock's 12 101 Belleville, 18 119 Bogarl's, 15 134 Gordonier's, 16 150 Kingston, 20 170 Port Hope, 65 miles east of Toronto is the first steam- boat landing on the -way to Kingston. It is a flourishing place, containing about 2,500 inhabitants, and is sur- rounded by a fine tract of cleared land. Here is a good xvater privilege, on which are erected some manufactur- ing establishments, Cobourg, 7 miles further, is handsomely situated on the north side of Lake Ontario, and appears to good advan- tage from the water. It contains about 3,000 inhabitants, 6 churches, the Victoria college, several hotels and ta- verns and 20 stores. The town is laid out with great symmetry, has fine broad streets, substantial houses of 222 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. Stone, brick and wood, and all the external symptoms of prosperity, having a fine agricultural country behind it for many miles. A steamboat runs from this place di- rect to the mouth of the Genesee river near Rochester, a distance of 80 miles. There are several other settlements, of less note, on the lake shore betvt^een Toronto and Kingston, but they are not usually visited by the large class of steamers. Fifty Mile Point, attached to Prince Edward's Dis- trict, is so named from being distant 50 miles from Kings- ton. False Duck's Island, 30 miles from Kingston, lies near the entrance to Prince Edward's bay, which is a large expanse of water south of the entrance to the bay of Quinte. Amherst Island is next passed on the right as you approach Kingston; then comes in view Gage Island and Grand Island,- the latter being the largest of the Thou- sand Islands which lie in the St. Lawrence river — all the above named islands belong to the English. Kingston, 180 miles from Toronto and 212 miles southwest from Montreal, is advantageously situated at the foot of Lake Ontario, where commences the St. Law- rence river. This place stands on the site of old Fort Fron- tenac, having been first fortified by the French in 1672. Next to Quebec and Halifax it is considered the strongest military position in British America. Point Henry, a high rocky ridge forming the east side of Navy Bay and extending into the lake for about half a mile, is crowned by a strong fortification called Fort Henry, built on the extremity of the ridge and commanding Kingston and its harbor, and indeed all approaches to the city, both by land and water. Point Frederick is a narrow peninsula, lying between Fort Henry and the city. The extremity TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 223 of this point is surrounded by a battery, which together with the fort, fully protects the chief naval depct, silua- led in a deep narrow inlet called Navy Bay. The Navy Yard and the FortifLcaUons are well worth visiting. They may be seen by procuring an order from the commandant of the station. The RiDEAu Canal commences at this place, and al- though it is likely to be in some degree superseded bjj^the canals coustracting around the rapids of the St. Law- rence, still it is an 1 will continue to be a Vrork of much importance to Canada. It consists of a succession of ar- tificial canals, interchanging with natural reaches of wa- ter, ani extends from Kingston' to Bytown, on the river Ottawa, a distance of little over one hundred miles. It is navigated chiefly by small steamboats, which easily pass the locks and artificial cuts, and move more expeditiously than the usual canal craft. From Bytown to Mon- treal the passage on this route is by boats down the Ot- tawa, which has been fitted for navigation by a series of locks. Kingston was chartered as a city in 1S40, and now con- tains 9 or 10,000 inhabitants. It has rapidly increased in numbers and importance since the completion of the above canal, and the more recent location of the seat of govern- ment within its limits, which is, however, about being removed to Montreal. It contains at present the resi- dence of the Governor General, handsomely situated about a mile to the west of the city, near the lake shore, and where the late Governor General, Sir Charles Bagot, died, May 19, 1843. The present Governor General is Sir Charles T. Metcalfe, who has the reputation of great en- ergy of character, combined w^ith moderation and eminent administrative abilities. Here also is the Parliament House, first erected for a hospital, in which the Provin- TOUR THROUGH Cx\?fADA. cial Parliament held its session annually; government offices, barracks for soldiers, a large penitentiary build- ing, a court-house and jail, a custom-house, and a new and splendid town hall and marVet; 7 churches of differ- ent denominations; 4 banking houses; 1 marine and two fire insurance companies; 20 hotels and taverns, and about 150 stores of different kinds. The public houses most frequented by travellers, are the British- xYmerican Hotel. Larnpton House, and the Royal Exchange. The number of steamboats of a large class plying between Kingston and other places is about fifteen, besides as ma- ny more of a small class, that run through the Eideau canal and down the rapids of the St. Lawrence to Mon- treal, Steamboats leave Kingston several times daily, for the different ports on Lake Ontario and the bay of Quinte, giving life and animation to the place during the season of navigation. Within the city limits, a short distance from the Par- liament House, have recently been discovered two valua- able Mineral Springs, on the premises of Mr. Morton, near the lake. The water was found by boring, one to the depth of 145 feet, and the other 85 feet. From the analysis of the first, it appears to belong to the same class, and nearly of the same component parts, as the Cheltenham Spring of England, although not so much impregnated with common salt. \ TO AN IMPERIAL PINT. Cheltenham. Kingston. Grains. Grfiins. Common Salt, 70.14 45.64 Chloride of Calcium, 7. 48 35.09 Chloride of Magnesium, 3.60 15.43 Sulphate of Soda, 17.55 21.36 Total grains,..., 98.23 117.52 TOUR THROUGH CAKADA. 225 The other spiing is unusally strong, and no doubt is of great medical value. Its strength is somewhat variable, owing to an admission of common water. It is, however, supposed to be much stronger than any other mineral water as yet discovered. The follow-ing analysis is by Professor Williamson — Sept. 1843. ANALYSIS OF THE UPPER SPRING AT MR. MORTON's. Specific gravity, •• 1.0432 In Imperial Pint. Carbonate of Lime, 3.2631 Carbcnate of Magnesia, 11.2653 Sulphate of Lime, 3-4716 Chloride of Sodium, 261.3108 Sulphate of Magnesia,, 4.3092 Chloride of Calcium, 112.8025 Chloride of Masnesium, *. 60.8475 Iodine and Bromine, (Traces.) Total grains, 457.2700 Gases, Carbonic Acid Gas. An extensive bath-house has recently been erected by the proprietor of the above springs, and other accommo- dations for visiters are contemplated. From the analysis and increasing celebrity of these springs, owing to their medicinal properties, it is by ma- ny predicted that Kingston wall become celebrated as a place of resort for invalids and others who may wish to visit these restorative fountains. Carriages may at all times of the day be found in waiting near the principal hotels to convey passengers to the springs, which are well worthy of a visit by all strangers. 226 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. Table of distances betwekn Kingston & Montreal. p Place From From rLACES. to place. Kingston. Momrenl. Kingston, 212 Gananoqui, 20 20 192 Brockville, 40 60 152 Mailland, 4 64 148 Prescott, or Ogdensburgh, . . 8 72 140 Galop Rapids, 7 79 133 Matilda, 9 88 124 Williamsburgh, 7 95 117 Dickinson's Landing, 15 110 102 Cornwall, by canal, passing the Long Sault Rapids,. . • 12 122 90 St. Regis, 4 126 86 Lake St. Francis, 2 128 84 Lancaster 15 143 69 Coteaudu Lac, ..;.-'...... 20 163 49 Cascades, by stage, passing the Cedar Rapids, 16 179 33 La Chine, passing through Lake St. Louis '. 24 203 9 Montreal, by stage, 9 212 On leaving Kingston to descend the St. Lawrence, you enter at once among the remarkable group of the Thou- sand Islands, which stretch along the river for more than thirty miles. " The main stream of the St. Lawrence," says Buckingham " as it flows from the eastern termina- tion of Lake Ontario, is 12 or 15 miles wide, from Kings- ton to Cape Vincent, across Grand Island; but it is so thickly studded with Islands, that it is like passing through a vast archipelago, rather than navigating a mighty river. Though this extensive range bears the name of the Thou- sand Isles, it is said that there are more than 1,500 of them. The largest are from 8 to 12 miles in length, and from 3 to 5 in breadth; and the smallest of them cover perhaps an acre of space. They are for the most part rocky islets, sometimes rising in abrupt cliffs from the water, and so bold and steep that you may run the boat fOUR THROUGH CANADA. 227 near enough almost to touch the cliffs from the vessel. A few only are low and flat; but being nearly all wood- ed, they form a perpetual succession of the most roman- tically beautiful and picturesque groups that can be con- ceived." After clearing the Thousand Islands the river contracts to about two miles in width, and presents a magnificent appearance. The cultivated fields and settlements inter- changing with bolder features, along its banks, impart a grandeur, as well as a variety and beauty, to the river and its shores, which no other stream on the continent possesses in an equal degree. Gananoqui, 20 miles below Kingston, is usually the first landing made by the British steamers in descending the river, unless they stop to take in wood at some of the islands. Wells' Island, one of the largest of the Thousand Is- lands attached to the United States, lies a short distance below, opposite the village of Alexandria, on the Ame- rican shore. This island was the scene of a high-handed piece of piracy, in May 1838. The following is a slate- ment of the aff"air as narrated by Capt. J. B. Armstrong. " The British steamer. Sir Robert Peel, while stopping at Wells' Island, for the purpose of taking in wood, was boarded at midnight by a set of men, two of whom seized the commander of the boat, as he came on deck, by the shoulders, while 5, third one presented a musket with fixed bayonet to his breast and ordered him to proceed on shore, w^hich order he quietly obeyed between his two captors. The crew and passengers, several of whom were ladies, were disposed of in a similar manner. The boat was then robbed of all the most valuable articles, including a considerable amount of money, and set on fire. 228 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. The notorious Bill Johnson was supposed to have been the leader, assisted by Canadian patriots. Brockville, 60 miles below Kingston, is delightfully situated on the northwest side of the St. Lawrence, where it is about two miles wide. Here is a convenient steam- boat landing, where the American and English passage boats usually land on their trips up and down the river. It contains about 1600 inhabitants, 250 dwelling houses, 4 churches, a court house and jail; and several well kept public houses. Nearly opposite lies the village of Mobristown, on the American shore, 11 miles above Ogdensburgh. It con- tains about 250 inhabitants. 40 dwelling houses, 2 church- es, 2 taverns, 3 stores, 2 store-houses, and 1 steam grist mill. This is a regular landing place for passage boats passing up and down the St. Lawrence; and the stage road between Utica and Ogdensburg passes through this place. Maitland, is a small village, 4 miles below Brock- ville, on the same side. It contains about 300 inhabi- tants, 1 church and 2 public houses. Pbescott, 72 miles below Kingston, stands opposite to the village of Ogdensburgh, with which it is connected by a ferry. Here is located Fort WeUingtoji, a strong and important fortress permanently garrisoned by British troops. Prescott is a place of considerable trade, con- taining 2 or 3,000 inhabitants, 350 dwelling houses, 4 churcheS; 8 hotels and taverns, and a large steam grist mill. Windmill Point, about one mile below Prescott, is noted for having been occupied in November, 1838, by a body of Americans under the command of Van Shultz, who had embarked in a crusade against the British au- thorities in Canada, in behalf of the patriots. The stone TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 229 \yindmill, near the river, was his stronghold, and valiant- ly defended for some time and at the cost of many ]ives, when the surviving inmates were all compelled to surren- der. This was an unfortunate afiair for all who were captured. The leaders suffered an ignominious death on the gallows, at Kingston, whither they were conveyed for trial, and the others were transported to Van Die- man's Land, where many of them still linger, unless in- cluded in a decree of amnesty and pardon recently issued by the British government. Ogdensbitrgh, on the American side of the St. Law- rence, is situated at the mouth of the Oswegatchie river. It was incorporated in 1817, and now contains about 3,600 inhabitants, 450 dwelling-houses; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Epis- copal, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist, and 1 Roman Catholic church; 2 banks, 5 public houses, 80 stores and shops of different kinds, and a number of mills and other manu- facturing establishments. This place is situated at the foot of sloop navigation on the St. Lawrence, although steamboats of a large class descend to the Long Sault Rapids, 40 miles below. A daily line of steamboats leave Ogdensburgh, ascending the St. Lawrence, passing through Lake Ontario, and touching at Prescott^ Morris- town^ BrockviUcy Alexandria, French Creek, Cape Yin- cent, jSTiregsf on, Sackett's Harbor, Oswego, Rochester, To- ronto, and Lewiston. A steam ferry boat crosses the St. Lawrence from Ogdensburgh to Prescott, a dis- tance of 1:^ miles. A daily line of stages run from Ogdens- burgh to Plattsburgh by the southern route. A line of stages also run three times a week from Ogdensburgh to Plattsburgh, via Fort Covington, where it intersects a stage running to Montreal, a distance of about 80 miles; the total distance from Ogdensburgh to Montreal, by the above stage route, being 140 miles. Q 230 TOUK THUOUGH CANAOA. The Galop Rapids, 7 miles below Ogdensburgh, are easily passed by steamboatSj although they prevent the navigation of the St. Lawrence by sail vessels. Matilda, 9 miles further, is a convenient landing on the Canada side of the river. Willi AMSBURGH, 7 miles below, is a convenient land- ing, where passage boats usually touch ascending and de- scending the river. Waddington, on the American shore, lies opposite Ogden's Island, which is passed to the right, as it is on the American side of the line. Dickinson's Landing, 110 miles below Kingston, is situated at the head of the Long Sault, which is a dan- gerous rapid, extending for several miles. The St. Law- rence Canal, recently finished, on the Canada shore, ex- tends from this place to Cornwall, a distance of about 12 miles. It is calculated to accommodate steamboats and a large class of other vessels. Cornwall, 122 miles from Kingston and 90 miles above Montreal, is situated on the northwest side of the river, at the lower end of the St. Lawrence Canal. The town contains about 1,800 inhabitants, 300 dwell- ing houses, a court house and jail; 5 churches, 20 stores, and several hotels. St. Regis, 4 miles below, on the American side of the river, is situated on the line of the 45th degree of north latitude, the St. Lawrence, below this point, being en- tirely in Canada. St. Regis is an Indian village, part of its inhabitants living in the United States, and part in Canada. It contains 4 or 500 inhabitants, 80 dwelling houses, 1 Roman Catholic church, 1 tavern and 1 store. Here is a convenient steamboat landing, where during warm weather may be seen Indian boys, prepared to plunge into the water, on having a piece of money thrown TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 231 overboard — often it is caught by these expert swimmers before reaching the bottom. Lake St. Francis, which is 30 miles long and from 4 to 7 miles wide, is an expansion of the St. Lawrence. Lancasteb, 16 miles below St. Regis, is a steamboat landing on the northwest side of the lake, or river. Ca- jr.EDONiA Springs is 30 miles distant from this place, in a northerly direction. A new road is about being construct- ed to unite the two places. At CoTEAu DU Lac, 20 miles further, commences a rapid of the same same name, extending about two miles. Seven miles below this commences the Cedar Rapid, which extends about 3 miles. Then comes the Cascade Rapid, which terminates at the head of Lake St. Louis, where the Ottawa, by one of its mouths, joins the St. Lawrence. The grandeur of the scenery in the vicinity of these ra- pids cannot be conceived without being witnessed. The mighty St. Lawrence is here seen in all its magnificence and power, being lashed into a foam for miles by the im- petuosity of its current. The Cedars* have hitherto been considered the most formidable obstruction to downward bound craft, but the new South Channel, first used in 1843, affords an additional depth t)f water. '' Previously to taking the Ontario, (now the Lord Sy- denham) down to Montreal from Kingston, Captain Bil- liard examined the south channel for some part of the way; but though he supposed there was sufficient depth of Avater, he was of opinion that it was too rough to be navigated with safety; so the Ontario came down by the * It was here that Gen. Amherst's brigade of 300 men, on their way to attack Canada, then in possession of the French, were lost. At Montreal they received the first intelligence of the in- vasion, by the dead bodies floating past the town. 232 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. old path. These and other facts had long been known to D. L. Macpherson, Esq., of the forwarding house of Macpherson, Crane & Co.; and it is to the sagacity, per- severance and public spirit of that gentleman, that the country owes the knowledge of the existence of the new" passage." The Beauharnois Canal, now in the course of construc- tion, will extend 16 miles, and afford steamboat naviga- tion round alj the above rapids. From Coteau du Lac passengers now proceed by stage to the Cascades, 16 miles; thence by steamboat to La- chine, 22 miles, through Lake St. Louis. From the lat- ter place, stages usually convey passengers to Montreal, a further distance of 9 miles. On the enlargement of the Lachine Canal, however, passage boats of the larger class will be able to pass directly to Montreal, as do now, a small class of steamboats, in descending the St. LawTence. In ascending, however, even the latter class are obliged, at present, to proceed up the Ottawa river, and take the Rideau Canal to Kingston. A statement of the canals, finished and in progress in Canada, intended to improve the navigation of the St. Lawrence, and afford ship navigation from Quebec to the Falls of St. Mary are here added. '' The line commences with the Lachine Canal, extending from Montreal to the village of Lachine, a distance of 8 miles. This work is about to be enlarged, and it will form the first link of the chain which is to connect the navigation of the St. Lawrence with that of the great interior lakes, through Avhich runs the boundary between the Unitetl States and the British dependencies, and to which, there- fore, the people and the trade of both nations have equal and free access. '' At Lachine you enter an expansion of the St. Law- TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 233 rence called Lake St. Louis — similar to that of the Tap- pan sea in the Hudson river — and have a steamboat navi- gation to the Cascades, at the mouth of the Ottawa. At this point, vi'here is the village of Beauharnois, com- mences the Beauharnois Canal, which is to extend 16 miles, to a point opposite Coteau du Lac, surmounting the obstacles to navigation caused by the several rapids, known as the Cascades, the Cedars, and the Coteau du Lac, which make, in all, a difference of elevation of about sixty feet. " At this last point you enter another expansion of the St. Lawrence, called Lake St. Francois, which takes you to Cornwall, a distance of 40 miles, and on the 45th pa- rallel of north latitude. At this point commences the St. Lawrence Canal, now finished and extending 12 miles to Dickinson's Landing, and passing the Long Sault rapids, which have a total descent of about 50 feet. This canal is a fair sample of the other works. It has six locks of solid masonry, constructed in the most dura- ble manner, each 200 feet long in the chamber, by 50 feet wide, with a depth of 10 feet of water. They are de- signed, therefore, to accommodate the largest class of Lake Ontario steamers, and most of the ships that navi- gate the St. Lawrence from Quebec to Montreal. " From Dickinson's Landing to Kingston, steamers of a^ large class now ply, though there are two or three ra- pids below Ogdensburgh. '^ From Kingston the route is by the lake to the point of connection with the Welland Canal. This work, now being enlarged, is but a continuation and completion of this great line of works designed and destined to fur- nish a continuous ship navigation throughout the whole extent of the valley of the St. Lawrence and the basin of the great lakes, from Quebec to the Falls of St. Mary. •234 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. When this chain of communication is finished, and this great route of travel and traffic is opened and in use, it will give to the Canadas an exclusive as well as direct communication between the vast and far north-west and the Atlantic ocean — a result which, unless counterbal- anced by the completion of our own great works, espe- cially the Erie Canal Enlargement, will give to the Bri- tish navigation and commerce, advantages ot the greatest importance, and will operate to the deep and lasting in- jury of the State of New-York." The City of Montreal, now the first in population and commerci^ importance in British America, as well as the capital of the United Provinces, is advanlageouslj' situated on the southeast side of the Island of the same name, with the river St. Lawrence flowing past from southwest to northeast, being here about 2 miles v/ide, and navigable from this place to the ocean for ships of several hundred tons burthen. Immediately above commence the Lachine Rapids, through which no vessel can ascend the stream. The city extends along the river for about two miles. there being an inward curve to the wharves, which ex- tend nearly the whole distance, aflording great facilities to the numerous vessels of difi'erent kinds which visit this port during the season of navigation. The settlement extends inwards for upwards of a mile, covering an area of about one thousand acres. On approaching from La Prairie above, or from Que- bec below, this place appears to great advantage. The towering grandeur of the French Cathedral, the spires of other churches, • and the spreading mass of well built stores and dwellings, give the traveller a very favorable impression of the city he is about to enter — and it is in- TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 235 creased as he views the line of noble stone wharves, and |reads the streets, at present celebrated for their good or- der and cleanliness, Montreal being now one of the neat- est cities on this continent, though formerly it had a very '..... 5 25 " Rowley, 4 29 " Newburypokt, 5 34 " Salisbury, 2 36 '' Seabrook, 4 40 *' Hampton 4 44 *^ Greenland, 5 49 " Portsmouth, ,.. 5 54 " Kittery, Maine, 1 55 " South Berwick, 11 66 " North Berwick, 6 72 " Wells, 5 77 " Kennebunk, 5 82 '" Saco, 10 92 '' Scarboro', 8 100 " Portland, 5 105 " Cars on both these routes run through in five hours and fifteen minutes. Steamboat Route from Boston to Bangor, Me., via Portland. To Cape Ann, 32 miles. Mouth of Piscataqua river,. . . 30 62 " Hood Island, 26 88 " Portland, 17 105 " Thoraaston, 65 170 '' Belfast, 30 200 ''' Bucksport, 20 220 '• Frankfort, 10 230 *' Bangor,. 15 245 ■■ Passengers going over the ^osiora and Maine Railroad, on their route to Portland, leave Boston from the depot in Lowell-street, and are carried rapidly through a suc- cession of villages, and an interesting section of country, until they arrive at South Berwick, Maine, where the 31G EASTERN TOUE.. country assumes rather a barren aspect, which is continu- ed until you approach Portland. Passengers on leaving Boston by the Eastern Railroad route, are carried by a steam ferry boat to East-Boston^ starting from near Lewis's Wharf. This is a well con- ducted line of travelj and the road being constructed in the most substantial manner, induces great speed as well as safety. The number of miles run on this Eastern Rail- road in 1842, which extends from Boston to Portsmouth,, N. H., was, With passenger trains, 139,715 Merchandize trains, 28,460 Total miles, 168,175 The total number of passengers carried dming the same period, was, 431,260. Lynn, 9 miles from Boston, is the first stopping place after leaving the citj?", and the point where passengers take the stage for Nahant. This place has long been celebrated for the manufacture of ladies' shoes, of which it produces over 2.500,000 pairs annually. The village, which is scattered, contains 8 churches, 2 banks of dis- count, a savings bank, several public houses, and 30 or 40 stores. The City of Salem, 14 miles from Boston, is an old and wealthy town. In 1840 it contained 15,032 inhabitants principally engaged in manufactures, commerce and na. vigation. It is a well built, pleasant, healthy place, dis- tinguished for its enterprise, and for its numerous and well managed institutions. Next to Plymouth it is the oldest town in the state, having been settled in 1628. It is chiefly built on a tongue of land formed by two inlets from the sea, called North and South rivers, over the former of which is a bridge, upwards of 1,500 feet long, connecting it with Beverly, and the latter forms the EASTERN TOUR. 317 harbor. The harbor has good anchorage gronnd, but ves- sels drawing more than 12 or 14 feet of water must be partially unloaded before they can come to its wharves. The situation of Salem is low, but it is pleasant and healthy. It is well built, and latterly most of the houses which have been erected, are of brick, and many of them are tasteful and elegant. The compact part of Salem is about one and a half miles long, and half a mile wide. The streets are irregular, having been originally laid out v/ithout much regard to symmetry and beauty. In the southern part of the town there is an elegant public square or common, containing about 10 acres, surrounded by a handsome public walk, ornamented with rows of trees. An aqueduct supplies the city with an abundance of excellent spring water. Salem was long the second town in New England in wealth, commerce, and popula- tion; but Providence and Lowell now exceed it in popu- lation, and New Bedford in shipping. It was long dis- tinguished for its East India trade, by which it was great- ly enriched; but this branch of commerce, though still carried on, is less extensive than formerly. On a penin- sula below the town are Fort Pickering and Fort Lee; and on Baker's Island there is a light-house. The ton- nage of this port in 1840, was 37,020, Among the public buildings are a court-house, a jail, an alms house, a market house, an East India Marine Museum, and a Lyceum. It has 9 banks, with an ag- gregate capital of $2,000,000; 6 insurance companies, with a total capital of $950, 000; a marine insurance com- pany, and an institution for savings. There are ^two public libraries, an athenaeum containing 10,000 volumes, and a mechanics' library, containing 1,200 volumes. There are 16 churches — 4 Unitarian, 4 Congregational, 2 Baptist, 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist, 1 Christian, 1 Roman Catholic, 1 Friends, and 1 Universalist. B18 EASTERN TOUR. Harmony Grove Cemetery, situated on the east side of North river, about one mile from the city, was laid out in 1840, and now presents a beautiful aspect, the grounds being admirably adapted and arranged for a burial place. Here are to be seen picturesque dells, shady lawns, and craggy rocks covered with moss grown trees, giving the place altogether a romantic appearance. Beverly, 2 miles from Salem, is connected with the latter place by a bridge 1,500 feet long. The village con- tains 4 churches, 1 bank, and 1 insurance company. The inhabitants are chiefly employed in commerce and the fisheries. Ipswich, 25 miles from Boston, is a port of entry. It contains a court-house and jail, 1 bank, 4 churches, a fe- male seminary of considerable celebrity, 2 public houses, and several stores. Newbtjrypobt, 34 miles from Boston, is one of the capitals of Essex county, and a port of entry, where are annually built a number of large vessels. It is beautifully situated on the south bank of the Merrimack river, near its entrance into the Atlantic. The streets are wide, intersect- ing each other at right angles. It contains a brick court* house and a stone jail, a custom house built of rough gran, ite, 8 churches, 3 banks, a savings bank, 3 insurance com- panies, an alms-house, a lyceum. several public houses, and about 100 stores. Here are owned numerous vessels employed in the cod, mackerel, and whale fisheries, giving employment to upwards of one thousand men. The har- bor is safe and spacious, but difficult of entrance. Portsmouth, N. H., 54 miles from Boston, 51 from Portland, Maine, and 45 from Concord, is the largest town and the only seaport in the state. It is advantageously situated on a peninsula on the south side of the Piscata- qua river, three miles from the ocean. The streets are EASTEHN TOUR. 3|9 somewhat crooked, yet the houses are mostly well buiitj and some of them elegant. It has a fine harbor, with 40 feet water in the channel at low tide, and is protected by islands and headlands from storms. The Piscataqua which here forms the boundary between the states of New Hampshire and Maine, is about half a mile wide, and the tide rising 10 feet, flows with so rapid a current as to keep the harbor free from ice. There are three or four fortified points at the mouth of the harbor: Fort Consti- tution is situated on Great Island, and Fort McClary in Kittery, on the north side of the harbor. On Continental or Navy Island, lying opposite Ports- mouth, within the bounds of Maine, is an extensive Navy Yard belonging to the U. States Government, which has every convenience for the construction of ships of war of the largest class. Portsmouth contains much wealth and has considerable trade, though its back country is rather limited, bein*^ situated about equi-distant between Boston and Portland much of the trade of the interior flows to those places. Among the public buildings are 8 churches, 6 banking ?iouses, a court house, 2 market houses, an athenseum, an alms-house, and the State Lunatic Asylum; there are about 150 stores of diflferent kinds, and several hotels. Those of most note are the Rockingham House on State street; Mansion House, (temperance.) Congress-street- and Franklin House, Congress-street. On leaving Portsmouth, proceeding north, the railroad track crosses the Piscataqua river by means of a sub- stantial bridge, extending to Kittery, Maine; from thence the route extends 11 miles to South Berwick, where the Boston and Maine Rail- road, running through Dover, intersects the Portland, Saco and Portsmouth Railroad. Here the cars are usu- 320 EASTERJf TOUR. ally detained a short time, in order to have the passen- gers transferred from the former road to the latter, which runs through to Portland, a further distance of 39 miles. Wells, 11 miles from South Berwick, lies a few miles east of the railroad. Kbnnebunk Depot, five miles further, is situated about 2 miles from the village. Saco, 38 miles from Portsmouth, and 13 from Port- land is a port of entry, situated on the northeast side of Saco river, 6 miles from the ocean. Here is a fall in the river of 42 feet, creating a great water pov/er, and pre- senting an interesting and beautiful view. There are numerous mills at this place and many hand- some dwellings. Immediately below the falls is a fine basin where vessels take in their cargoes. On the shore of the river below the village, there is a fine beach, 4 miles long, within sight of the ocean, which affords a pleasant drive in warm weather. From Saco to Portland, a distance of 13 miles, the railroad passes over a level section of country, in part covered with a small growth of trees, and some meadow lands. On approaching Portland, the railroad extends over a bridge of considerable length, extending across an arm of the sea which in part forms the peninsula on which the city stands. The depot is about one mile from the centre of the town, passengers being usually carried to the hotels in carriages. The City of Portland, is very advantageously situa- ted on a peninsula at the western extremity of Casco bay. It is distant 105 miles from Boston ; 50 from Au- gusta, the capital of the State, and 545 from Washington. The city presents a beautiful appearance from the sea, and the islands in the bay, as it rises like an amphithea- tre between two hills. It is regularly laid out, and handsomely built, and has some fine public edifices, EASTERN TOUR. ^1 among which are a spacious city hall, a court house and jail, and 16 churches; a custom-house, 6 hanks, a theatre, and an athenseum, containing a library of 4 or 5,000 volumes. On an eminence called Mount Joy, on which Fort Sumner formerly stood, there is an observatory 82 feet in height, being elevated 226 feet above the ocean, commanding a fine view of the harbor, and the adjacent country. Casco bay is seen lying to the east, studded with islands and rocky islets, said to amount to 365 in number, — on the north is a body of water called Back Cove, — the city is immediately on the south-west, and presents a splendid appearance in connection .with the harbor aad shipping, — Cape Elizabeth lies on the south, 3 miles distant, where is located Cape Cottage, a much frequented public house and delightful place of resort during warm weather, — Fort Preble stands two miles southeast and commands the ship channel in connec- tion with Fort Scammel, situated on an island. Beyond it lies the broad Atlantic ocean, where during the fall months of September and October, numerous small vessels are seea engaged in taking mackerel. Mount IVashington, the highest peak of the White Hills of New-Hampshire, distant 90 miles, may be seen on a clear day by looking through the glass here used in the observatory, which is a large and excellent instrument of the kind. Few places exceed Portland in point of loca- tion, having an extensive back country. Its trade is large and important ; the principal articles of export are lum- ber, fish and country produce. The trade with the West Indies is very great, also with Boston and New- York, and southern ports. The Oxford Canal which extends to Sebago pond, 20 miles northwest, affords 50 miles of inland navigation. An important road also diverges in the same direction, 322 EASTERN TOUR. which enters New-Hampshire and extends across into Vermont. Over this road stages run three times a week to the White Mountains, distant 92 miles, connecting with lines of travel to Concord, and Burlington, Ver- mont. The principal Hotels in Portland are the American House, Congress-street; Casco Temperance House, Mid- dle-street; Elm Tavern, Federal- street; United States Hotel, corner Congress and Federal-streets; besides many others of less note in different parts of the city. Lines of Tkavel from Portland. Stages connecting v/ith the railroad cars from Boston, run twice daily from Portland to Augusta via Brunswick; thence daily to Bangor, Ellsworth and Eastport. A tri-weekly line of stages run from Portland to Au- gusta, via Lisbon and Winthrop — distance 60 miles. On the opposite days a stage runs through, via Gray, Lewis- ton and Winthrop, — intersecting with the Farmington and Buckfield stages. A daily line of stages run from Portland to Bath, via (, Brunswick, — thence on the shore road to Ellsworth and Eastport, — intersecting at Ellsworth the stages from Ban- gor. « Tri-weekly stages run from Portland to Paris, 40 miles ; " Water ford, 40 miles ; '* Dover, N. H., via Alfred, 56 miles; " White Mountains, 92 miles. A line of steamboats run from Portland to Boston, 105 miles; " Hallo well, 61 miles; » " Bangor, 140 miles. EA5.TEIIN TOUR. 323 Stage Route from Portland to Bangor, via Augusta. MILES. To North Yarmouth, 12 " Brunswick, 14 26 '• Boardinham, 10 36 ''Richmond, 11 47 " Gardiner, , 7 54 " Augusta, 6 60 " Vassalboro 12 72 " China, 9 81 '' Unity, 14 95 " Dixmont, 12 107 '* West Hamden, 11 118 "■ Bangor,... 11 129 Fare through $5.50 — Usual time 20 hours. Stages run twice daily from Portland to Augusta, via Brunswick — connecting with railroad cars at Portland, From Augusta stages run to Bangor and other places. Stages twice a week leave Augusta for Quebec, running over the Kennebec road, via Norridgewock. Stage Route from Portland to Easiport. MILES. Falmouth, 7 North Yarmouth, 5 12 Freeport, , 6 18 Brunswick, 9 27 Bath, (Kennebec river,) 7 34 WiSCASSET, 15 49 Waldoboro', 18 67 Warren, 9 76 Thomaston, 4 80 Camden, 11 91 Belfast, 18 109 Castine, (across Penobscot bay,) 9 118 Bluehill, 10 128 Ellsworth, 14 142 Franklin, ]2 154 Cherryfield, 20 174 Columbia, 12 186 Machias, 15 201 Whiting, 14 215 Eastport, 15 230 324 EASTERN TOUR. ♦ This route extends along near the coast of Maine, which is deeply indented with numerous inlets or bays, filled with islands and rocky islets, often presenting a truly grand and romantic appearance. Eastport, lies on an island in Passamaquoddy bay, into which empties the St, Croix River, forming the eastern boundary of the United Slates. Augusta, 60 miles northeast of Portland, is situated on both sides of the Kennebec river, 43 miles from the ocean, at the head of sloop navigation. This is the capi- tal of the State of Maine, and is a beautiful place. The State House is constructed of white granite, and stands on a commanding eminence, half a mile south of the vil- lage. The population in 184u, was 5,314. It is regular- ly laid out, the ground rising on each side of the river, and a fine bridge extends across the Kennebec, 520 feet long, connecting the two parts of the town- The principal hotels are the Augusta House, and the Mansion House; there are also several others of less note. Below Augusta, on the Kennebec river, are Hallo- well, Gardiner and Bath, at all of which steamboats stop on their trips to and from Portland. The City of Baxgor, 129 miles from Portland in a northeast direction, and distant 245 miles from Boston, is the easternmost place of note in the United States. It is situated on the west side of Penobscot river, 60 miles from the ocean, at the head of steamboat navigation. The tide here rises 17 feet, and is of itself sufficient to float vessels of a large class. The principal article of trade is lumber, which com_es down the river in immense quantities, from a fertile region of country., The city occupies a pleasant and commanding situa- tion. The buildings for the most part are not only neat, but many of them elegant. Steamboats ply regularly EASTERN TOUR, 325 between Bangor and Portland, and Boston, for about eight months in the year, when the river is free from ice. The population in 1840, was 8,627, and is rapidly increasing. The principal hotels are the Bangor House, the Franklin House, and the Penobscot Exchange, Below Bangor on the Penobscot river, are Frankfort, BucKSPORT, Belfast and Thomaston; at all of which steamboats l^nd and receive passengers on their trips to and from Portland and Boston, On leaving Portland for Boston, the traveller has the choice of three lines of travel — by steamboat, or by rail- road through Portsmouth, or over the upper railroad through Dover. The latter, although a few miles further, is usually run over in the same time, and passes through an interesting section of country. LINES OF TRAVEL BETWEEN BOSTON AND NEW-YORK, There are three great lines of travel between the above 5)laces. The most direct is by way of Providence, pass- ing over the Boston and Providence Railroad, 42 miles in length. From thence passengers are conveyed by rail- road to Stonington, Conn., and take a steamboat for New- York, or take a steamboat at Providence, stopping at Newport to land and receive passengers. Either of the above routes are desirable and speedy modes of convey- ance. At Mansfield, 24 miles from Boston, a branch railroad diverges south to Taunton, 11 miles — from thence the New-Bedford and Taunton Railroad, extends to New- Bedford, a further distance of 20 miles. The City of Providence, the semi-capital of Rhode- island, in connection with Newport, is situated at the iiead of Narraganset bay, on the west side of Sekonk or W 326 EASTERN TOUR. Providence river. 35 miles from the ocean, and 182 miles from the city of New-York. This is the second city in New-England in point of population and trade. Vessels of 900 tons come up to its wharves, and it has long been successfully engaged in a trade with the West Indies and China, Packets also run direct to most of the ports in the Union. The population in 1840, was, 23,171, many of whom are engaged in commerce and manufacturing pursuits. Among the public buildings are the State House, several churches, which for specimens of archi- tecture may be ranked among the finest buildings of the kind in the country ; the Arcade, extending between two streets, with a fine Doric portico on each, and Brown University, occupying a commanding situation, has two large brick edifices, 4 stories high; this is an old estab- lished institution of learning, having been originally es- tablished in Warren, in 1764, and was removed to Provi- dence in 1770 ; it has a president, and 8 professors and instructors. Here is a State Prison, lately erected, and a new Theatre ; the Athenseum, founded in 1836, has a handsome granite building, and a library of 7,000 volumes. It has 21 banks, with an aggregate capital of eight millions of dollars, and 3 insui-ance companies. The Blackstone Canal, extending from Worcester, Mass., terminates here; also, the Boston and Providence Railroad, which consti- tutes one of the great links in the line of travel between the cities of New- York and Boston ; the latter place be- ing 42 miles distant. Providence was settled in 1636, by Roger Williams, and others, who fled from Massachusetts on account of their religious opinions, and who early adopted in this place the principles of universal toleration. Newport, situated on the southwest side of Rhode Island, 5 miles from the ocean, has one of the finest bar- EASTEllN TOUR. 327 bors in the world, being safe, and easily accessible by ships of the largest class. The harbor, which is of a semi- circular form, spreads westward before the town ; it is defended by Fort Adams, situated on Goat Is- land, ^ miles below the town, which is garrisoned by several companies of XJ. S. troops. Fort Greene,^ built during the late war, has been suffered to go to decay; it was at the northern extremity of the town. This place appears to great advantage as it is approached from the water, the ground rising in a beautiful and gentle accli- vity, shows the buildings to much advantage. The plea- santness of its situation, and the healthfulness of its cli- mate, its fine views, and its cooling ocean breezes, have rendered it a favorite summer resort to the most fashion- able class of inhabitants of the northern and southern states. It contains a state house, market house, theatre, a public library containing over 8,000 volumes, 3 acade- mies, 6 banks, and 12 churches of different denomina- tions ; 1.200 dwelling houses, and 8 or 9,000 inhabitants. The accommodations for visitors are ample and of a good character, affording every inducement to the invalid and seeker of pleasure to make this place a summer resi- dence. Stonington, 89 miles from Boston, and 135 miles from New- York, by water, is situated on a point of la;id which projects half a mile into the east end of Long- Is- land Sound, and has a good harbor, protected by a break- water, constructed by the United States Government. It contains about 1,000 inhabitants, many of whom are en- gaged in navigation ; here being owned several vessels engaged in the whaling business. The Providence and Stonington Railroad extends from this place to Provi- dence, a distance of 47 miles. A line of steamboats of the first class run daily between this place and the city of New- York. 328 eastern tour. Worcester and Norwich Eotjte. The route between Boston and New- York, via Wor- cester and Norwich, Conn., is a favorite line of travel. The cars pass over 110 miles of railroad through an in- teresting section of country, -until they reach Allen's Point, 7 miles below Norwich. Here there is a suffi- cient depth of water for the steamers at all tides, which run to the city of New- York. For a description of Wor- cester see page 287. Norwich is situated at the head of navigation on Thames river, 13 miles north of New-London, and dis- tant 103 miles from Boston. The site is singularly ro- mantic, on the steep declivity of a high hill, which causes the streets to rise above each other like terraces The city contains a court-house and jail, a town-hall, 4 banks, 2 insurance companies, 7 churches, several public houses,^ 80 or 90 stores, and 4,200 inhabitants. In the immediate vicinity of this place are several in- teresting localities. At the junction of the Yantic with the Shetucket rivers, which united take the name of Thames, is situated a romantic cataract, affording a fine site for mills and manufactories. The village around it is called Yanticville. From a high projecting rock,, which overhang these falls, it is said the Mohegan In- dians formerly plunged to destruction, rather than fall into the hands of the Narragansetts who were pursuing them. In the rocks which form the bed of the stream at this point, will often be found circular perpendicular holes, five or six feet deep, evidently formed by stones whirled round within them by the force of the water. These holes are so regular as to appear like a work of art, and are a curiosity. New-London, is situated on the west side of the Thames river, 3 miles from its entrance into Long-Island Sound. EASTERN TOUR. 329 and is distant 120 miles from the city of New- York. This harbor is one of the best in the United States ; it has a depth of 30 feet, and is spacious and safe. Fort Trumbull, situated on a projecting point, about one mile below the city, defends the approach to the town together with Fort Griswold, on the east side of the river. The county courts are alternately held at this place and Norwich. It contains a court-house and jail, 5 churches, 3 banks, 2 insurance companies, 40 stores, and several public houses. In the rear of the city the ground rises to a considerable height, and from its summit presents a fine view of the harbor and the surrounding country. This is the only place at which the steamboat stops, running in connection with the railroad cars on the Nor- wich and Worcester Railroad route ,• total distance from Boston to New- York, 236 miles. Spkingfield and Hartford Route. This is destined to be a favorite line of travel between the cities oi Boston and New- York, passing through the most interesting portions of the states of Massachusetts and Connecticut. The route to Springfield is described in a previous part of this volume. At the distahce of 98 miles from Boston by railroad, the line of travel diverges down the beautiful valley of the Connecticut. 25 miles to the city of Hartford. A railroad is now in the course of construction between Springtfeld and Hartford, which when finished will furnish a line of railroads from Bos- ton to New-Haven, a distance of 161 miles, thence by steamboat to the city of New-York, a total distance of 241 miles by this route. For a description of Springfield, see page 284. The City of Hartford, the semi-capital of the state, is handsomely situated on the west side of the Connec- ticut river, 50 miles from its mouth, at the head of sloop. 330 EASTERN TOUR. navigation. The compact part of the city is more than a mile in length, and three-fourths of a mile wide, and con- tained in 1840, a population of 9,46S. Among the pub- lic buildings and institutions, is the state house, a spa- cious and handsome edifice ; the city hall is a large build- ing of the Doric order of architecture ; Washington Col- lege is situated on elevated ground in the western part of the city, where are two large edifices ; it was founded in 1824, and has a president, and 8 other professors or in- structors. It is under the direction of the Episcopalians, and is in a flourishing condition. The commencement is on the first Thursday of August. The American Asy- lum, for the instruction of the deaf and dumb, was the first establishment of the kind in the United States. The Retreat for the Insane, is situated on a commanding emi. nence south of the state-house, and was opened in 18.24. The Atheneum, is a new edifice of the Gothic order of architecture, and accommodates the Young Men's Insti- tute, Historical Society, and Gallery of Paintings. There are in the city 12 churches ,; 5 banks, and a bank for sav- ings ; 3 fire and marine insurance companies ; an arsenal; a museum, and 2 markets. The principal hotels are the City Hotel, Main-street, and the United States Hotel, State-street, besides several others of less note. Hartford is well situated, and is no doubt destined to in- crease in commercial importance ,• Connecticut river has been made navigable for boats 220 miles, to the mouth of Wells river, at Newbury, Vt.; opening an extensive and rich country to it on the north, while it enjoys facilities of sloop navigation into Long Island Sound, and the railroad in progress of construction to Springfield, when finished, will much benefit this place by connecting it with the great line of travel east and west. Steamboats • of a small class can navigate the river for many miles above Hartford. EASTERN TOUR. 331 The City of New Haven", the semi-capital of Connecti. cut with Hartford, distant 38 miles by railroad route, lies round the head of a bay which sets up four miles from Long Island Sound. The city is situated on a beau- tiful plain, with a slight inclination toward the water, and skirted in other directions by an amphitheatre of hills, two of which consist of bold rocky eminences, called East and West Rock, which presents fronts nearly per- pendicular from 300 to 370 feet high. Two small rivers discharge their waters into the bay on either side of the town ; West river on the west, and Quinnipac on the east. The city extends about 3 miles from e. to w. and 2 from s, to N. It is laid out with great regularity, and consists of 2 parts, the old town and the new township. The harbor of New-Haven is safe but shallow, and gradually filling up with mud. It has about 7 feet of water on the bar at low tide, and the common tides rise to 6 feet, and the spring tides about 7 or 8 feet. Long wharf is 3,943 feet in length, the longest in the United States, At present its foreign trade is chiefly with the West Indies, The tonnage of the port in 1840, was 11,- 500, A line of steamboats connects this city with New- York, and also several lines of packets. The Farming - ton canal connects this place with Northampton, Mass, -and Connecticut river near it ; and a railroad connects it with Hartford. The town contains 20 houses of public worship, viz : 9 Congregational, 3 Methodist, 3 Episco- pal, 1 Baptist, 1 Catholic, 2 colored Methodist, 1 color- ed Congregational. There are also a customhouse, an. almshouse, a jail, a museum, 3 banks, and a saving in- stitution; various benevolent societies, the Young Men's Institute, and an institution for popular lectures, with one of the best selected libraries in the Union. The State Hospital, founded in 1832, is half a mile southwest 332 EASTERN TOUR. from the centre of tlie city, and has a fine edifice with a colonnade. But the most important public institution ih the city is Yale College, one of the oldest and most extensive institutions of the kind in the United States. Without large funds, it has accomplished great things. It was founded in 1701, originally at Killingworth. It was removed to Saybrook in 1707, and to New Haven in 1717. There are 4 college halls, 100 feet long by 40 wide, 4 stories high, containing 32 rooms each for stu- dents ; and north of these is another hall devoted to the use of the theological students ; there is a chapel, in which is one story appropriated to religious worship, and one to the college library ; and two other buildings, called the Athenaeum, and the Lyceum, appropriated to recita- tion and lecture rooms, rooms for the professors, and for the libraries of the literary societies. These are all of brick ,• and the buildings intermediate between the college halls, have neat cupolas ; one of which is after the model of the Temple of the Winds, fitted up for the use of a splendid telescope. In the rear of these is another range of buildings, consisting of the chemical laboratory; the commons hall in the second story, of which is a spacious apartment devoted to the most splendid mineralogical cabinet in the United States, containing more than 16,000 specimens, many of them rare ; and a stone building stuccoed, and containing a splendid collection of paintings by the late Col. Trumbull and others. A short distance from these are the buildings devoted to the law and medical departments, the latter of which has an anatomical mu- seum and library. Yale College has more students, and has educated more men than any other college in the country. In 1841, the officers were 30 in number. Of these, besides the president, 17 were professors, and the remainder were tutors or subordinate officers; 15 are con- EASTERN TOUR. 333 nected with the college proper. The whole number of students of all descriptions was 550. Of these 410 were undergraduates ; 59 theological students ; 31 law ; 47 medical ; and 3 resident graduates. The whole number of graduates is over 5,000, of whom nearly 1^400 were ministers. The number of volumes in the various libra- ries is 33,000; among which are many old and rare, as well as many splendid modern works. The commence- ment is on the third Wednesday of August. New Haven was first settled in 1638, by a colony un- der Theophilus Eaton, the first governor, and John Da- venport, the first minister, whom Cotton Mather de- nominated the ''Moses and Aaron" of the settlement. In 1665, this colony was united by a royal charter to Connecticut. In 1784, New Haven was chartered as a city. In July, 1779, the city was invaded and plundered by about 3,000 British troops from New-York, under Generals Tryon and Garth, after a feeble opposition on the part of the inhabitants. RAILROADS IN NEW-ENGLxlND. Finished or in Progress of Construction — 1843. Name. Bangor and Orono, Portland, Saco, & Ports- mouth, Eastern, Marbleliead Branch, Boston and Lowell, Nashua and Lowell, Concord, Boston and Maine, Great Falls Branch, Boston and Providence,- • Dedham Branch, Taunton Branch, New Bedford and Taunton Providence & Stonington, Quincy, Fitchburg,* Boston and Worcester, •• Norwich and Worcester, • Extension, do. Western, • West-Stockbridge, Berkshire, Housatonic, New-Haven & Hartford, • Hartford and Springfield* From. To. Bangor, • Orono, Portland, ♦•'•••• iPortsmouth,- Portsmouth, •••[Boston, Eastern RailroadjMarblehead,' Boston, Lowell, Lowell, iNashua, Nashua, Concord, Wilmington, S. Berwick, M. B. ^.M.^Railroad G. F. Village,- Boston, Providence, •• B. &P. Railroad, Dedham," Mansfield, Taunton, Taunton, New-Bedford,- Providence, Stonington,- •• Quincyj Neponset river Boston, Fitchburg, Boston, Worcester, •-• Worcester, Norwich, Norwich, Allen's Point,- Worcesier, N. Y. S. Line, - N. Y. State Line, W.Stockbri'ge W. Stockbridge,- Conn. St. Line, Conn. State Line, jBridgeport,- •- j New Haven, Hartford, jHartford, Springfield,- •- Total miles. Miles. 11 51 54 '26 15 35 59 3 43 2 11 20 47 54 44 59 7 117 2-h 23i 75 38 25 827 I.a progress of construction. HOTELS. The following list of Hotels is added for the informa^ tion of Travellers, having been omitted in the body of the work: Principal Hotels in Syracuse. (See description of Syracuse, page 140.) American Temperance House, Farmers' Exchange, Franklin House, Mansion House, Syracuse House. Principal Hotels in Auburn. (See description of Auburn, page 151.) American Hotel, Auburn House, Western Exchange. Principal Hotels in Geneva. (See description of Geneva, page 161.) Franklin House, Geneva Hotel, Railroad House, Tem- perance House. Principal Hotels in Rochester. (See description of Rochester, page 166.) American Hotel, Clinton Hotel, Eagle Hotel, Ex- change Hotel, Mansion House, Morton House, North American Hotel, Rochester House, United States Hotel. Principal Hotels in Lockport. (See description of Lockport, page 172.) American Temperance House, Eagle Tavern Lock- port House. 336 HOTELS. Principal Hotels in Buffalo. (See description of Buffalo, page 178.) American Hotel, Farmers' Hotel, Huff's Hotel, Man- sion House, Pollard Temperance House, United States Hotel, Western Hotel. Principal Hotels in Montreal. (See description of Montreal, page 234.) Exchange Hotel, St. Paul-street j Orr's Hotel, Notre .Dame-street 5 Ottawa House, McGill-street ; Rosco's Hotel, St. Paul-street; Sword's Hotel. Principal Hotels in Quebec (See description of Quebec, page 247.) Albion Hotel, Palace- street, Upper Town ; Payne's Ho- tel, St. Anne-street, do.j Ottawa House, Lower Town ; St. Lawrence Hotel, do. TO THE TRAVELING PUBLIC. J. DISTURNELL, DEALER IN sa^5?^y (a^aa>a 3<^(^SQ5> statistical Works, &c. &c., NO. 102 BROADWAY, BETWEEN PINE AND WALL STREETS; NEW-YORK; Keeps a full assortment of the above articles, together with a collection of ENGRAVINGS, illustrative of Ame- rican Scenery — all of w^hich v^^ill be sold on reasonable terms at wholesale or retail. Citizens and Strangers are invited to call and exa- mine his assortment of Maps, Guide Books, &e., before leaving the city on excursions of pleasure, or travels for health or business, as they can be furnished with publi- cations relating to every section of the United States, Ca- nada, Texas, Mexico, Guatemala, the West Indies, South America, Europe, Asia, and Africa — embracing every part of the Civilized World. N. B.— The PICTURESQUE TOURIST, being a Guide through the Northern and Eastern States, and Canada, together with other publications of J. D.'s, useful to travellers, can be obtained at most of the Book- stores in the United States and Canada. New- York, June, 1844. J. DISTURNELL, No. 102 BROADWAY,: MEW-YORK, HAS RECENTLY PUBLISHED 1. A New Township Map of the State of New-York ; showing the boundaries of Counties and Townships; the location of Cities and Villages, &c. By J. Calvin Smith. Engraved on steel. Price, (Pocket Form,) $0 75 Do. on RolSers, 1 5^ 2. Gazetteer oe the State of New-York ; comprising its Topography, Geology, Mineralogical Resources, Civi] Divisions, Canals, Railroads, and Public Institutions, to- gether with General Statistics; Accompanied by a ne^^ Township Map of the State. Price, $2 0( Do. without the Map, ■ 1 o( 3. The New -York State Guide; containing an Alphabeti cal List of Counties, Towns, Cities, Villages, Post Offices, &c., with Census of 1840. Price, with State Map, $1 0( Do. without the Map, 2^ 4. The New- York Political Manual; containing the. Official Election Returns for 1840-42, and the Census of 1840 —together with other useful information. Price,. $0 25 6. The New-York State Register for 1843-4. Edited by O. L. HoUey. Price, $1 50 6. The Northern Traveller; containing the Hudson River Guide, and Tour to the Springs, Lake George and Canada, passing through Lake Champlain; with 2 Maps. Price, $0 50 1. The Western Traveller; embracing the Canal and Railroad Routes, from Albany and Troy to BufiTalo and Niagara Falls. Also the Steamboat Route from Bufialo to Detroit and Chicago. Price, $0 50 8. The Picturesqe Tourist; being a Guide through the Northern and Eastern States and Canada. Edited by O. L. Holley. With Maps and Illustrarions. Price, .... $1 50 N . B .—A liberal discount will be made to the Trade. — Orders solicited for all kinds of Maps and Geographical Works, and supplied on the most reasonable terms . New -York, June, 1844. C 310 88 ■■iMm»wei-- 9ftr':'''?mmr:'?>t9^-mais^'.ii)0t>i*!:ie!'Aft<^i'k' ,v , f' / Y t.-^ >..;: . ^f, s <- '« II \^ I \.\"(t\ L%^ ^^Y-'^ :^^.^J_Z ■.^ 'n^"D C 310 ^^ n4 0. N O *. *. "^^ '--^K*' J'^\ °WW: J'^^ ^ y.4^ L