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THE 
 
 PICTTJEESQUE TOURIST; 
 
 BEING 
 
 \ GUIDE 
 
 THROUGH THE 
 
 iNORTHERN AND EASTERN STATES 
 
 AND 
 
 CANADA: 
 
 GIVING AN ACCURATE DESCRIPTION OF CITIES AND 
 VILLAGES, CELEBRATED PLACES 
 
 OF RESORT, ETC. 
 WITH MAPS AND ^LUSTRATIONS. 
 
 EDITED BY 0. L. HOLLEY. 
 
 NEW-YORK : 
 PUBLISHED EY J. DISTURNELL, 
 
 NO. 102 BROADWAY. 
 
 1844, 
 
•i^--'-. ;v 
 
 
 Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1844./ 
 " '. •* I . * -^z Joar CisTURNELL; in the Clerk's Office of the Dislrici 
 '^ «'Jv .<>0«rt for, tbe Southeru District of New- York. 
 
 ccc««««t ' 
 
 ALBANY: PRINTED BY C VAN BENTHVYSEN A.VB CO- 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^1^ 
 
TO THE READER- 
 
 The arrangement of the Picturesque Toueist, will 
 be found to differ, in some respects^ from works of the 
 same class. 
 
 The general object of this book is to furnish a conve- 
 nient and faithful guide for strangers^ whether travelling 
 on business, or for pleasure, or health, through the North, 
 ern and Eastern sections of the United States, and the 
 Canadas. 
 
 The City of New- York, as being the principal com- 
 mercial emporium of the country, and the chief centre of 
 resort, in the first instance, for distant travellers, whether 
 native or foreign, is chosen as the point from which the 
 Tourist is supposed to commence his excursion. Starting 
 thence, this Guide will conduct him along the principal 
 lines of travel North, West, and East. Northward he 
 will proceed up the Hudson river, through the flourishing 
 cities at the head of navigation, to the famous Springs at 
 Ballston and Saratoga — thence to Lake George, and by 
 Che way of Lake Champlain into Canada. Westward 
 through the rich midland and western counties of the 
 
TO THE READER. 
 
 State of New- York, to Niagara Falls, and Buffalo — thence 
 to Chicago. Northerly through Canada, passing over 
 Lake Ontario and down the St. Lawrence to Montreal, 
 Quebec, and the Saguenay river. Eastward through the 
 states of New England ; noticing, on each route, the pla- 
 ces and scenery most worthy of the attention of the Tour- 
 ist, either for memorable events, or for local attractions, 
 and aiming, in the accounts of them, more at simple ac- 
 curacy, than at embellished description. Such are the 
 scope and design of this Traveller's Guide. 
 
 0. L. H. 
 
 Albany, June, 1844. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Description of the City and Island of New- York. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Situation and Extent, , ^ 
 
 Discovery and Settlement, 10 
 
 Streets and AvenueSj 13 
 
 Parks and Public Squares, , . . . . 15 
 
 Public Buildings, 16 
 
 Churches, 19' 
 
 Literary and Scientific Institutions, 20 
 
 Benevolent Institutions, - 23 
 
 Places of Amusement, 23 
 
 Hotels and Public Houses, 25 
 
 Hackney Coaches, Cabs and Omnibusses, 27 
 
 Markets, 27 
 
 Trade and Commerce, 28 
 
 Buildings in 1840, 28 
 
 Croton Aqueduct, • ■ ■ • 29 
 
 Fire Department — City Courts, 33 
 
 City Police — Ferries, ' 34 
 
 Steamboats and Packets, 35 
 
 Railroads, 35 
 
 Stages. 36 
 
 Fashionable Places of Resort in the Vicinity N. York, 37 
 
 Eastern Lines of Travel through Long Island Sound, 42 
 
 Housatonic Route betvreen New-York and Albany^ 43 
 
 Hudson River and its Vicinity. 
 
 Jersey City — Hoboken, 45 
 
 Weehawken — Bloomingdale — Manhattanville, 46 
 
 Fort Washington — Fort Lee — Palisades, 47 
 
 Yonkers — Hastings — Dobb's Ferry, 48 
 
 Piermont — Tappan, . . ., 49 
 
 Tappan Bay — Irving — Tarrytov^^n — Nyack, 50 
 
 Rockland Lake — Si«g Sing,. 51 
 
IV COKTEIVTS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 City of Rochester, 16^ 
 
 Avon Springs, 16S 
 
 Batavia — Attica, 170 
 
 Brockport — Holley — Albion — Ridge Road, 171 
 
 Knowlesville — Medina — Gasport — Lockport, 172 
 
 Tonawanda — Black Rock, 173 
 
 Niagara Falls, 174 
 
 Levviston — Fort Niagara, 177 
 
 City of Buffalo, 178 
 
 Steamboat Lines leaving Buffalo, 1^1 
 
 Table of Distances from Buffalo to Chicago, : 182 
 
 A trip from Buffalo to Chicago — Lake Erie, 184 
 
 Dunkirk — 'Barcelona — Erie — Conneaut, 186 
 
 Ashtabula — Fairport — Cleveland — Sandusky, 187 
 
 Toledo — Perrysburg, 18S 
 
 Monroe — Amherstburgh — Detroit, . . » = 189 
 
 Lake St. Clair — Fort ^Gratiot — Lake Huron, 190 
 
 Point aux Barques — Presque Isle— Mackinac, 191 
 
 Lake Michigan — Mihvaukie — Racine — Chicago,... 192 
 
 Michigan City— St. Joseph— Green Bay, 193 
 
 Sault de St. Marie, 194 
 
 Lake Superior, 195 
 
 Pictured Rocks, • 196 
 
 First Vessel vi^hich Navigated the Western Lakes, ... 1 97 
 
 Statistics of Steamboats, 202 
 
 Tour Through Canada. 
 
 Fort Erie— Waterloo— Grand Island, 211 
 
 Navy Island — Chippewa, 212 
 
 Falls of Niagara — Drummondsville, 213 
 
 Queenston, 214 
 
 Niagara, 215 
 
 Fort George— Welland Canal, 216 
 
 Karailton — 'Dundas, 217 
 
 City of Toronto, 218 
 
 Steamboat Lines leaving Toronto, 219 
 
 Port Hope— Cobourg, 221 
 
 City of Kingston, 222 
 
 Rideau Canal, 223 
 
 Table of Distances betvi'een Kingston and Montreal, 226 
 
 Thousand Islands, » 226 
 
 Gananoqui — Well's Island, , 227 
 
 Brockville — Morristown — PrescG'tt, 228 
 
CO/NTENTS. V 
 
 Page. 
 
 Ogdensburgh, 229 
 
 Galop Rapids — Dickinson's Landing — Cornwall — St. 
 
 Kegis, 230 
 
 Lake St. Francis — Coteau du Lac, Cedar and Cas- 
 cade RapidS; 231 
 
 Beauharnois Canal — Canals in Canada, 232 
 
 City of Montreal, 234 
 
 Excursion to Caledonia Springs, &c., 238 
 
 Lachine — St. Anne's, 238 
 
 Lake of the Two Mountains — Carillon — Point For- 
 tune, 239 
 
 Caledonia Springs, 240 
 
 Georgian Springs — By town, 242 
 
 Steamboat Route from Montreal to Quebec, 243 
 
 Rapids of St. Mary — Varennes — William Henry, . . • 244 
 
 Lake St. Peter, 245 
 
 Port St. Francis — Three Rivers — Richelieu Rapids, 246 
 
 City of Quebec, 247 
 
 Excursions in the Vicinity of Quebec, 259 
 
 Falls of Montmorenci 260 
 
 Chaudiere Falls — Cape Rouge, 261 
 
 St. Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers, 262 
 
 Island of Orleans, 263 
 
 Madam Island — St. Thomas — Isle aux Coudi'es,. • ■ • 264 
 
 Goose Island — St. Anne — •Kamouraski, 265 
 
 River Du Loup — Red Island — Tadousac, 266 
 
 Saguenay River, 269 
 
 T^te du Boule, 271 
 
 St. Louis Island — Eternity Point — Cape Trinity,. . . 272 
 
 Statue Point — Tableau — Ha-Ha Bay, 273 
 
 Chicoutimi, 274 
 
 Value of Colonial Moneys, 275 
 
 Eastern Tour. 
 
 Table of Distances from Burlington to Concord,. . . 277 
 
 Lake Champlain, 278 
 
 List of Steamboats built on Lake Champlain, 280 
 
 Montpelier, 280 
 
 Eastern Lines of Travel from Whitehall and Albany, 281 
 
 New Lebanan S.prins;s — Shaker Settlement, 282 
 
 Pittsfield—Dalton— Washington— Becket, 283 
 
 Chester— Westfield— Springfield, 284 
 
 Northampton — Mount Tom — Hadley, 286 
 
VI CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Worcester, 287 
 
 City of Boston, 288 
 
 Vicinity of Boston — Dorchester, &c., 296 
 
 Brookline — Brighton — Cambridge, 297 
 
 Mount Auburn — Charlestown, 298 
 
 Breed's Hill— Battle of Bunker Hill, 299 
 
 Chelsea— Boston Harbor, c 302 
 
 Nahant, 303 
 
 Railroad Route from Boston to Concord, 304 
 
 City of Lowell, 305 
 
 Nashua — Concord, 308 
 
 White Mountains, 309 
 
 Routes between Boston and Portland, 314 
 
 Railroad and Steamboat Routes, 315 
 
 Lynn — Salem, , 316 
 
 Beverly— Ipswich — Newburyport — Portsmouth, . . . 318 
 
 South Berwick, 319 
 
 Wells — Kennebunk — Saco — Portland, 320 
 
 Lines of Travel from Portland, 322 
 
 Augusta- — 'Bangor, 324 
 
 Lines of Travel between Boston and New- York,. . 325 
 
 Providence — Newport, 326 
 
 Stonington, 327 
 
 Norwich — New London, 328 
 
 City of Hartford, 329 
 
 City of New Haven, 331 
 
 Railroads i& New-England, 334 
 
TABLE OF ROUTES OP TRAVEL, 
 
 THROUGH THE NORTHERN AND EASTERN STATES, ANTi 
 CAJTADA — GIVING- THE DISTANCE AND THE USUAL 
 TIME. 
 
 RotJtEs. Miles. Hours. 
 
 1. New-York to Philadelphia, uta New- Jefsey > 
 
 Railroad, 86 6 
 
 2. New-York to Baltimore, rt'ct Railroad routes 182 13 
 
 3. New- York to Washington, t;ta " " 220 16 
 
 4. New- York to Boston, via Stonington and 
 
 Providence Railroad, 224 14 :| 
 
 5. New- York to Boston, via Norwich and 
 
 Worcester Railroad, .*.... 237 15 
 
 6. New- York to Springfield, Mass., via New- 
 
 Haven and Hartfoifd Railroad, 143 
 
 7. New- York td Albany, ijitiHousatonic Rail- 
 
 road, 200 14 
 
 8. New- York to Albany, via Piermont, by 
 
 Steamboat, Railroad and Stage, . 166 28 
 
 9. New- York to Albany, east side Hudson 
 
 River, by Stage, » 154 ^S 
 
 10. New- York to Albany, by Steamboat Route, 145 10 
 
 11. New-York to Dunkirk, via line of New- 
 
 York and Erie Railroad, 475 
 
 12. Newburgh to Barcelona, on Lake Erie, by 
 
 Stage, .387 
 
 13. Albany to Boston, via Railroad Route, .. . 200 12 
 
 14. Boston to Portland, via Eastern Railroad, . 105 5| 
 
 15. Portland to Bangor, by Stage, 129 20 
 
 16 » Portland to Quebec, via Augusta and Nor- 
 
 ridgewoek, by Stage, 300 
 
Vlll TABLE OF ROUTES OF TRAVEL. 
 
 Routes. Miles. Hour*. 
 
 17. Boston to Bangor, by Steamboat Route, .. 245 18 
 
 18. Boston to Montreal, via Concord and Bur- 
 
 lington, Vt., by Railroad, Stage and 
 Steamboat, 317 
 
 19. Albany to Montreal, via Lake Champlain, 
 
 by Stage, Steamboat and Railroad, .... 250 36 
 
 20. Montreal to Quebec, by Steamboat, 180 12 
 
 21. Albany to Buffalo, by Railroad Route, ... 325 28 
 
 22. Albany to Buffalo, via Erie Canal, 364 96 
 
 23. Schenectady to Buffalo, by Canal Packet, . 334 72 
 
 24. Utica to Binghamton, by Stage, 94 16 
 
 25. Utica to Ogdensburgh, by Stage, 125 24 
 
 26. Ogdensburgh to Plattsburgh, by Stage, 126 24 
 
 27. Syracuse to Niagara-Falls, via Oswego, 
 
 by Canal Packet, Steamboat & Railroad, 187 20 
 
 28. Rochester to Niagura-Fails, via Lockport, 80 12 
 
 29. Rochester to Clean, by Stage, 98 18 
 
 30. Rochester to Buffalo, by Railroad Route,. . 74 6 
 
 31. Rochester to Buffalo, by Erie Canal. 95 19 
 
 32. Buffalo to Kingston, Canada, via Lewis- 
 
 ton, by Railroad and Steamboat, 222 24 
 
 33. Kingston to Montreal, via St. Lawrence 
 
 River, 212 24 
 
 34. Lewiston to Detroit, through Canada, by 
 
 Stage, 263 72 
 
 35. Buffalo to Detroit, by Steamboat, - 372 30 
 
 36. Buffalo .to Chicago, via Detroit and St. Jo- 
 
 seph, by Steamboat, Railroad and Stage, 640 60 
 ■.?7. Buffalo to Chicago, -yia Lakes Erie, Huron 
 
 and Michigan, Steamboat Route, 1047 72 
 
DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF THE 
 
 CITY AND ISLAND OF NEW-YORK. 
 
 SITUATION AND EXTENT. 
 
 The City of New- York stands on an Island of the 
 same name ; in n. lat. 40 deg;. 42 min. 43 sec. ; in e. 
 LON. from the Washington meridian 3 deg. 1 min. 13 sec, 
 and w€st from Greenwich, England, 78 deg. 59 min. 
 46 sec. Its distance from Washington is 220 miles, by 
 one continuous line of railroads. 
 
 The Island is 13| miles long, north and south, with an 
 average width of 1 ^ miles, the greatest width being 2^ 
 miles. On its east side it is separated from Long Island 
 by a continuation of Long Island Sound called East River, 
 and on the west by the Hudson River from New-Jersey. 
 The two rivers unite at the southern point of the Island, 
 and form the spacious Bay of New- York, the distance 
 across which, and through the '' Narrows" to the Atlan- 
 tic ocean, is 16 miles, with a channel sufficient for the 
 largest ships. East River connects with Long Island 
 Sound through the formidable strait, called by the Dutch, 
 ^' Helle-Gat." On the north, the Island is separated from 
 the main land by the Harlem River, which opens into East 
 River, and by the Spuyten Duyvel Creek opening into the 
 Hudson, forming a continuous but winding water-way 8 
 miles long. The southern termination of the island and 
 city is a spacious esplanade called the "Battery," once 
 fortified, but long since dismantled ; planted with trees 
 and laid out with public walks. A fine view from the 
 Battery forms the frontispiece of this book. 
 
 B 
 
10 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 In the Bay, fronting the Battery, at the distance of lit- 
 tle more than half a mile, and separated from Long Is- 
 land by the Butter-milk channel, is Governor's Island ; 
 while toward the Jersey shore and looking up the Hud- 
 son, are Bedlow's and Ellis's Islands. These all were 
 long since ceded to the United States, (reserving the ju- 
 risdiction of the state and city for the service of legal pro- 
 cess,) and are strongly fortified. 
 
 In the East River, and extending in succession towards 
 Hell-Gate, areBlackwell's, Great-Barn, and Randall's Is- 
 lands, all belonging to the city of New- York ; and on the 
 first named are the City Penitentary and Lunatic Asylum. 
 
 DISCOVERY AND SETTLEMENT. 
 
 The Island of New-York was discovered in 1609, by 
 Henry Hudson, who was then sailing in the service of 
 the Dutch. It was formerly called Manhattan, from the 
 native inhabitants — a name, says Schoolcraft, descriptive 
 of the singular whirlpool of " Helle-Gat," the most ex- 
 pressive feature in the neighborhood, and which may be 
 translated, " the people of the whirlpool." 
 
 The first settlement of white men on this Island was 
 made by the Dutch in 1613, who then laid the foundation 
 of the city, under the name of New- Amsterdam, which 
 it retained till its conquest in 1664, by the English, who 
 changed the name to New- York. Being reconquered in 
 1673, by the Dutch, they gave it the name of New- 
 Orange ; but on being again surrendered to the English by 
 treaty, in 1674, the name of New- York was restored, 
 and has been retained ever since. 
 
 The municipal authority of New- Amsterdam was vested 
 in two Burgomasters, five assistants called Schepens, and 
 a Schout or Sheriff. The English changed the city go- 
 vernment to its present form, under a charter granted in 
 1665, Nicolls being governor of the province. In 1686. 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 11 
 
 under Gov. Dongan, the charter was enlarged, and again, 
 in 1730, under Gov. Montgomerie. Under these charters, 
 the mayor was appointed by the governor, and the alder- 
 men and assistants were elective. The charter of 1730, 
 as amended by acts of the state legislature, is still in force. 
 
 From 1674 to 1783, the city and surrounding country 
 were in possession of the English, under the administra- 
 tion of governors appointed by the British crown. Dur- 
 ing that period the city increased slowly in numbers, hav- 
 ing, in 1750, only about 10,000 inhabitants. When the 
 British evacuated the city, November 25, 1783, it con- 
 tained about 24,000 inhabitants ; which, in 1790, had in- 
 creased to 33,131— in 1800, to 60,489— in 1810, to 96,373 
 —in 1820, to 123,706— in 1830, to 202,089, and in 1840, 
 to 312,710 ; being at the present time by far the most 
 populous and important city on the continent of America. 
 
 The city was originally built up without any regular 
 plan, and its streets were for the most part narrow and 
 crooked. As late as 1783, Chambers-street was the limit 
 of the city on the north, and Catharine-street on the east 
 towards Corlear's Hook. But the anticipated growth of 
 the city, soon after the close of the revolutionary war, 
 and especially on the adoption of the present Federal Con- 
 stitntion, led to great public improvements, which were 
 conducted in a systematic manner, being greatly facilitat- 
 ed by the extraordinary powers exercised by the corporate 
 authorities for the assessment of private property. 
 
 Wide and commodious avenues and streets have thus 
 taken the place of the narrow and irregular thoroughfares 
 of the olden times. Hills have been levelled, rough 
 places made smooth, and bogs and marshes filled up, until 
 the city now presents a uniform grade throughout. It 
 extends about three miles from the Battery towards the 
 north, and across the Island from river to river. The 
 
12 
 
 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 style of building has improved from time to time, and 
 within the last ten years has reached a high degree of ele- 
 gance and convenience. The upper or north part of the 
 city has been laid out into spacious streets, with wide and 
 convenient sidewalks, formed of large flag-stones ; and 
 the houses, built of brick in uniform blocks, with marble 
 steps, and highly ornamented balustrades of cast-iron in 
 front, present an imposing and agreeable aspect. This is 
 now the fashionable quarter, the lower part of the city 
 being comparatively deserted even by old residents, whose 
 former mansions are converted into boarding houses, or 
 have given place to shops or warehouses. 
 
 The City is now divided into 17 Wards; each Ward elect- 
 ing one Alderman, one Assistant Alderman, two Assessors, 
 one Collector, &c. The following table shows the com- 
 parative population of the Wards at different periods : — 
 
 WARDS. 
 
 1825. 
 
 1830. 
 
 1835. 
 
 1840. 
 
 First, 
 
 Second, 
 
 Third, 
 
 Fourth, 
 
 Fifth, 
 
 Sixth, 
 
 Seventh, 
 
 Eighth, 
 
 Ninth, 
 
 Tenth, 
 
 Eleventh, .... 
 
 Twelfth, 
 
 Thirteenth,*.. 
 Fourteenth,* . 
 Fifteenth,t'. . . 
 Sixteenth,t . . . 
 Seventeenth, § 
 
 9,929 
 
 9,315 
 
 10,201 
 
 12,210 
 
 15,093 
 
 20,061 
 
 14,192 
 
 24,285 
 
 10,956 
 
 23,932 
 
 7,344 
 
 7,938 
 
 11,331 
 8,203 
 9,599 
 12,705 
 17,722 
 13,570 
 15,873 
 20,729 
 22,810 
 16,438 
 14,915 
 11,808 
 12,598 
 14,288 
 
 10,380 
 7,549 
 10,884 
 15,439 
 18,495 
 36,827 
 21,481 
 28,570 
 20,618 
 20,926 
 26,845 
 24,437 
 17,130 
 17,306 
 13,202 
 
 10,629 
 6,394 
 11,581 
 15,770 
 19,159 
 17,198 
 22,982 
 29,073 
 24,795 
 29,026 
 17,052 
 11,652 
 18,571 
 20,235 
 17,755 
 22,273 
 18,619 
 
 Total,.... 
 
 166,086 
 
 202,589 
 
 270,089 
 
 312,710 
 
 * These two Wards were constituted in 1826, the 13th being taken 
 from the lOlh, and the Wh from the 6th and Sth Wards, 
 t Taken from the 9th Ward, 1832. 
 J Taken from the 12th or out-ward, 1836. 
 § Taken from the 11th Ward, 1837. 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 13 
 
 STREETS. 
 
 The principal street is Broadway, extending in a 
 northerly direction from the Battery a distance of three 
 miles along the centre of the city, and intersected at right 
 angles by streets that slope gradually to each river. It is 
 80 feet wide, with spacious side- walks that afford a fa» 
 vorite promenade in fine weather for the gay and fashiona- 
 ble. Here are to be found the most extensive hotels, dry 
 goods stores, fancy shops, confectionaries j jewellers, 
 booksellers, grocers, tailors, milliners, and in general all 
 the various establishments that furnish the elegancies and 
 luxuries of life in the greatest perfection. 
 
 The Bowery is about two-thirds the length of Broad- 
 way, but is a much wider street. The name is derived 
 from the Dutch bouwery, signifying a farm, and the street 
 was originally called Bowery- lane, from itsleading through 
 the public farms. It runs nearly parallel with Broadway, 
 on the east, and being chiefly a business street, has a 
 lively and animated appearance. It is the great thorough- 
 fare for country wagons and market people from West- 
 chester county, with which it communicates by the Har- 
 lem Railroad and Third Avenue. 
 
 Chatham- STREET, (named from the Earl of Chatham,) 
 connects the Bowery with Broadway and Nassau-street : 
 an immense population pours through it at all times from 
 the eastern part of the city, and Broadway, below its junc- 
 tion with this street, is often so thronged as to render it 
 hazardous, if not impracticable, for foot passengers to 
 cross it. 
 
 East Broadway is a spacious and elegant street on 
 the east side of the town, and parallel with it are Henry, 
 Madison and Monroe-streets, all handsomely built up 
 with private residences, in the neighborhood of East Ri- 
 
'14 DESCRIPTION OP 
 
 ver. The principal streets crossing Broadway and termi- 
 nating at East River, are Grand, Broome, Houstoun, 
 Fourth and Eighth-streets. 
 
 On the west side, Greenwich and Hudson-streets 
 are the most spacious and fashionable : they run parallel 
 to the Hudson, and are about two miles and a half in 
 length. Washington and West-streets are of the 
 same length, and have a parallel coursej the latter ex- 
 tends along the river. 
 
 Between the lower part of Broadway and East River 
 are Nassau, William, Pearl, Water, Front and South- 
 streets, intersected by Fulton-street, Maiden-Lane, Li- 
 berty, Cedar, Pine, Wall and Broad-streets, all of which 
 are occupied with the great commercial interests of the 
 city. A considerable part of this quarter of the city was 
 destroyed by the great fire of December, 1835, but it has 
 since been entirely rebuilt in a much superior style. 
 
 Wall-street contains the Merchant's Exchange, Cus- 
 tom House, and numerous other splendid edifices, recent- 
 ly built, occupied by insurance and banking companies. 
 
 The Avenues (so called) are sixteen in number and 
 extend from the upper parts of the city to Harlem river ; 
 they are in general 100 feet wide, as laid out, but are not 
 lall graded. They are crossed by streets running from ri- 
 ver to river, some of which are of equal width with the 
 Avenues, The Third Avenue leads to Harlem bridge, 
 and being m.acadamized throughout its whole extent, 
 (about 7 miles) affords a pleasant drive from the city. 
 The Harlem Railroad is laid upon the Fcxtrth Ave- 
 nue. The Bloomingdale road, (a continuation of Broad- 
 way,) is another favorite route for drives in pleasant 
 weather, leading to the villages of Bloomingdale and 
 ^lanhattanville, along the bank of the Hudson. 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 15 
 
 PARKS AND PUBLIC SQUARES. 
 
 Of the public squares the Battery is the principal. 
 It affords a fine view of the bay and harbor, and of the 
 adjacent islands and opposite shores. It contains about 
 eleven acres of ground, laid out in gravel walks and or- 
 namented with trees and shrubbery. As a public pro- 
 menade it is, probably, not surpassed in the beauty of 
 its situation and general attractions by any other in the 
 world. A castle, built on a mole in the harbor, is connect- 
 ed with the grounds by a bridge, and is now used as a 
 place of amusement, and for the exhibition of fire works. 
 
 The Park is a triansrular area of about ten acres, 
 handsomely disposed into grass-plots and walks, and con- 
 tains the City Hall with other public buildings. It is 
 an ornament to the city, and is much thronged on gala 
 days ; especially on the anniversary of American Inde- 
 pendence, and other public occcasions. The Fountain 
 which now adorns this Park is greatly admired. 
 
 Washington Square, of about the same extent as 
 the Park, is in the upper part of the city, between Fourth- 
 street and Waverley Place. The University and a new 
 Dutch church in the Gothic style, front on this square. 
 
 Tompkins Square, on the east of the Bowery, be- 
 tween Seventh and Tenth-streets, is handsomely laid out, 
 and afifords a fine view of East River and the opposite 
 shore of Long Island. It is a place of great resort dur- 
 ing the warm season, especially on Sundays, and is a 
 favorite parade ground for the military corps of the city. 
 Stages are constantly running between this square and the 
 Battery, and improvements are rapidly going forward in 
 its vicinity. 
 
 Union Place, at the common termination of the 
 Bowery, Broadway and University Place, between Four- 
 teenth and Seventeenth-streets, is laid out in a tasteful 
 
16 DESCRIPTION OP 
 
 manner and surrounded by an elegant paling of cast iron. 
 Madison, Hamilton, and Stuyvesant squares are not yet 
 open to the public. 
 
 The Bowling Green is a small enclosure at the foot 
 of Broadway, near the Battery. It is ornamented with 
 a beautiful Fountain — a view of which embellishes this 
 work as a vignette. 
 
 Hudson Square or St. John's Park, in the central 
 part of the city, between Hudson and Varick- streets, be- 
 longs to Trinity church, and is open only to privileged 
 persons. It is a beautiful green of about four acres, filled 
 with shrubs and flowers, enclosed by a high iron paling. 
 St. John's church, (a chapel of Trinity,) with its lofty 
 spire, 240 feet high, fronts on the east side of this square, 
 and adds to the beauty of the situation. 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 
 
 The public buildings are numerous, and many of them 
 are justly admired for their architectural beauty and sub- 
 stantial character. The new Merchants' Exchange, 
 erected on the site of the former, which was destroyed by 
 the great fire, is the largest and most costly edifice in the 
 city. The material of which it is built, is the dark blue 
 Quincy granite, {sienite •) no wood is used in any part 
 of the building ; the whole is solid masonry. It occupies 
 an entire block of ground fronting on Wall-V*reet, being 
 about 200 feet in length by 171, and 144 feet in depth. It 
 is 77 feet high to the top of the cornice, and 124 feet from 
 the foundation to the apex of the dome. In front is a re- 
 cessed portico with eighteen massive columns of granite, 
 beautifully wrought in the Ionic style. These columns 
 are 38 feet in height, and 4 feet, 4 inches in diame- 
 ter, each weighing thirty- three tons. They are said to be 
 the largest monoliths in the world, excepting only the co- 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 17 
 
 lumns of a church at St. Petersburgh. The exchange 
 room or rotunda is in the centre of the building, 100 feet 
 in diameter, and 90 feet in height to the top of the dome. 
 The dome is solid masonry, 80 feet in diameter, sup° 
 ported in part by eight Corinthian columns of beautiful 
 Italian marble. These are 41 feet in height, and 4 feet 
 8 inches in diameter. A more magnificent apartment is 
 seldom seen. The effect on the beholder when first seen, 
 is grand and sublime. The entire cost of the building, 
 including the ground, is stated at $1,800,000 ; the origi- 
 nal estimate was one-third of that sum. It was erected 
 by a company called the Merchants' Exchange Company, 
 incorporated in 1823, with a capital of one million. 
 
 The new Custom House, is another recent addition to 
 the public edifices of the city. It is modelled after the 
 Parthenon at Athens, and is nearly of the same size as 
 that celebrated temple. The external walls and the roof 
 are of white mai-ble, and the entire building is finished 
 without wood, so as to be completely fire proof. It is 
 200 feet long by 90 wide, and about 80 feet in height.* 
 
 It has two fronts ; the principal one on Wall street, at 
 the head of Broad-street, and the other on Pine street ; 
 each containing a row of finely wrought marble columns 
 32 feet high, of the Doric order. The business hall oc- 
 cupies the centre of the building ; it is a rotunda sur- 
 mounted by a dome, supported by sixteen beautiful Co- 
 rinthian columns 30 feet high. The diameter of this room 
 is 80 feet. The architectural ornaments of the interior 
 are numerous, beautifully designed, and exquisitely finish- 
 ed. This superb edifice was commenced in May, 1834, 
 and finished in May, 1841. The cost, ground inclusive, 
 was $1,175,000— building alone, $950,000. 
 
 • The dimensions of the Parthenon were 217 feet long, 98 broad and 
 65 high. 
 
18 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 The Hall of Justice, built in the Egyptian style, is 
 a remarkable structui'e. It fronts on Centre- street, and 
 occupies a block of ground 253 feet long by 200 wide, in- 
 cluding, however, in this space a prison, which is detached 
 from the main building. Its massive Theban columns 
 with their gigantic palm-leaved capitals, and its cornices, 
 ornamented with winged globes encircled by serpents, 
 give a singular effect to the building. The criminal courts 
 of the city and the city prison are to be found in this 
 gloomy pile, which has gained the sobriquet of the 
 '' Egyptian Tombs." The building was finishedin 1838, 
 being constructed of light colored granite. 
 
 The New-York University, on Washington Square^ 
 is built in the Gothic style, and has a commanding ap- 
 pearance. It is 180 feet long by 100 wide. The front is 
 composed of a centre building with wings flanked by 
 towers, one on each of the four corners of the edifice. 
 The centre rises above the wings, and contains in front a 
 large Gothic window of stained glass, 50 feet high by 24 
 wide. This part of the building contains the Chapel, 
 which is much admired for its architectural beauty. Its 
 lofty ceiling adorned with Gothic tracery, and the richly 
 carved columns and pannelings of oak, give it an antique 
 air, and produce a striking effect. The wings of the edi- 
 fice are four stories high, and the towers five : the last 
 are surmounted by embattled parapets. The main en- 
 trance is under the great central window, through a deep 
 portal of richly moulded stone, and a door of massive 
 oak. This building is of recent date, having been com- 
 pleted in 1836. 
 
 Among the older public edifices, the City Hall, is 
 pre-eminent. It is situated in the Park, and consists of 
 a centre building with wings, principally of the Ionic and 
 Corinthian orders. The entire front is 216 feet long, by 
 
JfEW-YORK CITY. 19 
 
 105 deep ; the front and ends are built of white marble, 
 and the rear of free stone. It is chiefly occupied by the 
 civil courts, and the common council, both branches of 
 the latter and the mayor having their respective apart- 
 ments. The United States Courts are held in a large 
 brick building in the rear of the City Hall, originally 
 built and occupied as an Alms-House. 
 
 At Bellevue, on East River, 2| miles from the City 
 Hall, are several public buildings, as the new Alms- 
 house, a large stone edifice, well adapted to the purposes 
 for which it is used ; a Hospital connected with it for the 
 sick and insane poor ; the House of Refuge for juvenile 
 delinquents ; and a Penitentiary for the punishment of fe- 
 male convicts. An Asylum for the insane poor of the 
 city has been recently erected on Blackwell's Island, 
 Vv'here there is also a Prison for male convicts. Opposite 
 Blackwell's Island are the Long Island Farms, where are 
 schools and nurseries for pauper children, liberally sus- 
 tained in connection with the Aims-House. 
 
 CHURCHES. 
 
 The number of Churches is about one hundred and 
 sixty, as follows : Presbyterian, thirty- seven • Episcopa- 
 lian, twenty-six ; Methodist, twenty-three ; Baptist, six- 
 teen ; Dutch Reformed, thirteen ; Roman Catholic, nine ; 
 African, ten ,• German Lutheran and Reformed, six ; Jews' 
 Synagogues, four ; Quakers or Friends, four ; Universa- 
 lists, four ; Unitarians, two ; and others, seven. 
 
 Many of the Churches are handsomely built ; of these 
 are the new Dutch Reformed Churches on Washington 
 Square and La Fayette Place ; the Church cf the Meg- 
 siah, (Unitarian;) St. Peters, (Roman Catholic ;) French 
 Protestant du St. Esprit ; the Church of the Ascension, 
 St. Paul's, and St. Peter's, (Episcopalian ;) Presbyterian 
 
20 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 Churches on Duane, Grand and Mercer- streets ; First 
 Baptist Church on Broome-street, &c. 
 
 The Church now building on the site of old Trinity, at 
 the head of Wall- street, will far surpass all others in the 
 city in its extent and architectural splendor ; its length is 
 189 feet by 84 in breadth ; height 64 ; height of tower 
 and spire, 264 feet. 
 
 There are congregations of French, Germans, and 
 Welch, who have religious services conducted in their re- 
 spective languages. 
 
 LITERARY AND SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 Columbia College the oldest literary institution in 
 the city, was founded in 1754, and was originally called 
 King's College. It is situated on a beautiful square ad- 
 joining Park Place, west of the City Hall, where the col- 
 lege buildings were erected in 1760. For a considerable 
 period there were no other buildings of any kind in the 
 immediate neighborhood of the college, which thus en- 
 joyed an extensive and unobstructed view of the opposite 
 shore and country of New-Jersey, Long Island, Staten 
 Island, and New- York Bay. &c. This college has always 
 sustained a high character as a seminary of learning, 
 having from the beginning enjoyed the services of emi- 
 nent scholars in the various departments of instruction. 
 
 The University or the city of New- York, is a 
 youthful institution; it was chartered in 1831, and is rapid- 
 ly increasing in importance and favor. Connected with 
 it is a Medical School of high reputation. Its location 
 is unrivalled, fronting Washington Park on the west, 
 which is ornamented with shade trees and laid out with 
 gravelled walks. 
 
 The General Theological Seminary of the 
 Episcopal Church, is situated on Twentieth-street, cor- 
 ner of the Ninth Avenue, near the Hudson, 2 miles north 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 21 
 
 from the City Hall, a part of the city known as Chelsea. 
 There are two handsome buildings of stone for the ac- 
 commodation of the professors and students ; the board 
 of trustees consists of all the bishops, and one other trus- 
 tee from each diocese in the United States. The institu- 
 fion is well endowed, and in a flourishing condition. 
 
 The New- York Theological Seminary near the 
 University, is under the direction of the Presbyterian 
 church, although open to all christian denominations. 
 Its library is of great value, consisting of 16,000 volumes, 
 formerly the property of a German clergyman, Rev. 
 Leander Van Ess, after whose decease it was purchased. 
 
 Of the literary associations, the oldest is the New- 
 York Society Library, founded in 1754, which occu- 
 pies a new and beautiful building recently erected on 
 Broadway, corner of Leonard-street. The library is 
 the largest and most valuable in the state, and is con- 
 stantly increasing ; it now consists of nearly 40,000 vo- 
 lumes. An extensive reading room is connected with it, 
 in some respects the best in the city. The institution is 
 governed by a board of twelve trustees, who are annual- 
 ly elected by the shareholders. 
 
 The New-York Historical Society, formed in 1804, 
 at present occupies a suite of rooms in the University, 
 where its library, comprising about 12,000 volumes, is 
 situated. It has published several volumes of historical 
 collections, and ranks among the most active and distin- 
 guished literary associations in this country. 
 
 The Lyceum or Natural History, established in 
 1818, has done much for the promotion of natural science 
 in this country. The building in which its library and 
 cabinet are deposited, is on Broadway, near Prince- 
 street ; it was erected at the expense of the Lyceum. 
 
22 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 The Mercantile Library Association is formed 
 chiefly of merchants' clerks. Its library consists of about 
 22,000 volumes, connected with which there is an excel- 
 lent reading room. The number of members in 1840, 
 was over 5,000. An annual course of lectures is de- 
 livered before this association at Clinton Hall, where 
 the library is also kept. 
 
 The Apprentices' Library in Crosby-street, contains 
 about 12,000 volumes. It was established in 1820, by 
 the General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen. 
 
 The American Institute for the encouragement of 
 American industry, formed in 1828, has a valuable li- 
 brary of about 5,000 volumes, situated in the spacious 
 building in the rear of the City HaU. Under the direc- 
 tion of this Institute annual fairs are held in the city at 
 Niblo's Garden, for the exhibition of American manu- 
 factures in every department of human industry. 
 
 The Mechanics' Institute occupies rooms in the 
 basement of the City Hall, where it has a library and 
 reading room ; a course of lectures is also given under its 
 auspices every winter. 
 
 The National Academy or Design, established in 
 1826, for the encouragement of the fine arts, occupies 
 rooms in the Society Library's building, where are held 
 its annual exhibitions of paintings. The Apollo Asso- 
 ciation, incorporated in 1840, for a similar purpose, is a 
 popular institution. 
 
 Other miscellaneous associations, are the Sacred Music 
 Society, for the improvement of church music ; the 
 Chamber of Commerce, formed in 1768 ; the Board ol 
 Trade ; the Board of UnderAvriters ; the Board of Stock 
 and Exchange Brokers ; the New- York Lyceum, with a 
 library and reading room, and annual lectures ; together 
 with many other institutions of less note. 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 23 
 
 BENEVOLENT INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 Among the benevolent institutions of the city, is the 
 Institution for flie Blind situated on the Eighth Ave- 
 nue. having seventy-two pupils ; the Institution for 
 the Instruction of the Deaf and Dumb, incorporated in 
 1817, on Fiftieth-street, 3| miles from the City Hall, 
 containing by the last report, 152 pupils ; the Lying-in- 
 Asylum ; the Female Assistance Society, for the relief 
 and instruction of the sick poor ; the society for respec- 
 table aged Indigent Females ; the Orphan Asylum, es- 
 tablished in 1806, situated on the Hudson at Blooming- 
 dale, five miles from the City Hall, where great num- 
 bers of indigent orphan children are reared and educat- 
 ed ; the Protestant Half Orphan Asylum on Twelfth- 
 street ; the Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum on Prince- 
 street ; the Asylum for Colored Orphans, &c. 
 
 The foreign residents have associations for charitable 
 purposes, as the St. George's Society, composed of Eng- 
 lishmen ; St. Andrew's, of Scotch ; St. Patrick's, of Irish ; 
 St. David's, of Welch ; the French, German, Spanish and 
 Hebrew Societies ; the St. Nicholas, composed of the 
 descendants of the early Dutch inhabitants and others, 
 and the New England Society. 
 
 There are also numerous religious associations, as the 
 Bible, Tract, Missionary, Sunday School, Education, 
 and Seamen's Friend Societies, most of which are sus- 
 tained by particular denominations or sects, each having 
 its own distinct organization. 
 
 PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 
 
 There are four Theatres in the city of New- York, be- 
 sides numerous other places of amusement. 
 Park Theatre, 
 
 Situated on Park Row, facing the Astor House, is an 
 old and fashionable place of resort for those fond of 
 
24 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 theatrical entertainments. It was first erected in 1798, 
 and the interior destroyed by fire May 24, 1820 ; it was 
 rebuilt, except the walls which were left standing, and 
 opened in August, 1821. This Theatre is calculated to 
 seat about 2,000 persons. 
 
 The Bowery Theatre, 
 
 Was first erected in 1826. It was burnt in May, 1828, 
 and immediately afterwards rebuilt, and opened in 
 August of the same year. It has since been destroyed 
 by fire, and again risen phanix-like, from its ashes. 
 The new building is a fine specimen of the Doric order 
 of architecture ; the interior being elegant and fitted up 
 in a superior style. 
 
 The Olympic Theatre, 
 
 Situated on Broadway, above Canal-street, is a much 
 frequented and popular place of amusement. 
 
 The Chatham Theatre and Circus, 
 
 Is situated on Chatham-street, and is an entertaining 
 place of amusement. 
 
 A new Italian Opera House, has recently been 
 fitted up in Chambers-street, over the Arcade Baths, in 
 the rear of the City Hall, and is called Palmo^s New- 
 York Opera House. 
 
 The Bowery Amphitheatre, or Circus, situated 
 on the Bowery, near the Theatre, is also much fre- 
 quented. 
 
 Theatrical entertainments are given during the sum- 
 mer at NiBLo's Garden, 576 Broadway, and at Vaux- 
 hall Garden, 408 Bowery. 
 
 Castle Garden, at the south-west angle of the Bat- 
 tery, is also a place of much attraction, where is occa- 
 sionally given a grand display of fire works. 
 
 There are also several other Public Gardens, in dif- 
 ferent parts of the city. 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 25 
 
 The American Museum, 
 At the corner of Broadway and Ann-street, is an old 
 and popular place of amusement and instruction. It was 
 founded by the late John Scudder in 1810, and now con- 
 tains an immense collection of natural and artificial curi* 
 osities, which have been brought together by the arduous 
 and unremitting exertions of its proprietors, during a period 
 of more than thirty years. It is now said to contain over 
 half a million of specimens, arranged in six splendid halls, 
 each measuring upwards of 100 feet in length. 
 
 The New- York Museum, 
 Formerly called Fettle's Museum, is situated on Broad- 
 way opposite the City Hall. This is an extensive and in- 
 teresting collection of natural and artificial curiosities, 
 taken from every part of the world ; the whole being 
 handsomely displayed in several spacious apartments. 
 It contains also a Gallery of Portraits, and other paintings 
 by eminent artists. "■' 
 
 HOTELS AND PUBLIC HOUSES. 
 
 No city is more amply supplied with Hotels and other 
 Houses, for the accommodation of travellers and perma- 
 nent boarders, than New- York. The most noted are sit- 
 uated on Broadway, and they are usually thronged with 
 pei'sons from all parts of the Union, and from foreign 
 countries. 
 
 The AsTOR House, built of granite, is a very exten- 
 sive and imposing edifice ; being five stories high, and 
 calculated to accommodate 400 guests. It is situated on 
 Broadway, between Barclay and Vesey-streets. 
 
 The others of note are included in the following enu- 
 meration : 
 
 The American Hotel, Broadway, corner Barclay-st. 
 ,. Athenjeum Hotel, 347 Broadway, corner Leonard-st. 
 
 C 
 
26 DESCRIPTION OP 
 
 Atlantic Hotel, 5 Broadway, near the Battery. 
 
 Batteky Hotel, 8 Battery- Place, 
 
 Caklton House, Broadway, corner Leonard-street. 
 
 City Hotel, Broadway, between Cedar and Thames- 
 streets. 
 
 Clinton Hotel, Beekman, corner Nassau- street. 
 
 Ckoton Hotel, (Temperance,) 142 Broadway. 
 
 Dunning's Hotel, Cortlandt, corner Washington-st. 
 
 Eagle Hotel, 61 Broadway. P 
 
 Franklin House, Broadway, corner Dey-street. 
 
 Globe Hotel, QQ Broadway. 
 
 Howard's Hotel, Broadway, corner Maiden-Lane. 
 
 Lovejoy's Hotel, Park-Row, corner Beekman-street. 
 
 Mansion House, (Bunker's,) 39 Broadway. 
 
 Merchants' Hotel, Cortlandt, near Green wich-st. 
 
 Northern Hotel, Cortlandt, corner West-street. 
 
 Pacific Hotel, 162 Greenwich- street. 
 
 Pearl^Street House, 88 Pearl-street. 
 
 United States Hotel, Fulton, between Pearl and 
 Water- streets. 
 
 Washington Hotel, Broadway, corner Reade-street. 
 
 Waverley House, 56 Broadway. 
 
 Western Hotel, 9 Cortlandt- street, near Broadway. 
 
 Tammany Hall, Nassau, corner Frankfort- street, and 
 several other Public Houses, are kept on the European 
 Plan, of letting out rooms by the day or week, and the 
 occupant getting his meals when and where he chooses. 
 
 There are numerous private Boarding Houses, in dif- 
 ferent parts of the city, affording all the quiet and comfort 
 that can be desired, varying in their charges according to 
 their situation and style of living. 
 
 There are also a great number of Restaurants, or 
 Eating Houses, in the lower part of the city, which are 
 much resorted to by citizens and strangers, — the bills of 
 fare being generally good, and the charges reasonable. 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 27 
 
 HACKNEY COACHES, CABS AND OMNIBUSSES, 
 
 Throng the principal streets, especially Broadway and 
 the Bowery. Regular lines of Omnibussesrun between the 
 upper and lower parts of the city, affording a cheap and 
 certain mode of conveyance. Hackney Coaches and Cabs 
 are to be found at the various stands in different parts of 
 the city, and at the Steamboat landings. In order to 
 guEflfd against impositions from their drivers, it is neces- 
 sary that the stranger should make himself acquainted 
 with the rates of fare allowed by law, to violate which 
 subjects them to a fine. These rates are — for conveying 
 a passenger any distance not exceeding one mile, 37| 
 cents ; and for every additional passenger, 25 cents, in- 
 cluding ordinary baggage. 
 
 MARKETS, 
 
 The largest and most important Markets are, 
 
 Fulton Mabket, situated on South-street, between 
 Fulton and Beekman-streets. 
 
 Washington Market, on West-street, between Ful- 
 ton and Dey- streets. 
 
 Catharine Market, in Catharine- street, running 
 from Cherry to South- street. 
 
 Centre Market, between Grand and Broome-streets. 
 
 Essex Market, on Grand-street, corner Essex-street, 
 
 Clinton Market, at the foot of Canal-street ; be- 
 sides Jefferson, Union, Greenwich, Tompkins, Gouver- 
 neur, Monroe, and Franklin Markets, situated in different 
 parts of the city — all being abundantly supplied with 
 every variety of meats, fish, fruit and vegetables that the 
 country affords. 
 
28 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 TRADE AND COMMERCE. 
 
 The trade and navigation of the city of New- York are 
 immense. The average number of arrivals, American and 
 foreign, amount to about 2000 annually, independently of 
 coasters from different parts of the Union. A great num- 
 ber of steamboats also arrive and depart daily, carry- 
 ing passengers and merchandize. The wharves are 
 crowded with vessels, sometimes exceeding one thousand 
 in number, from all countries and of almost every size 
 and rig, giving constant employment to a great number of 
 mariners. 
 
 The number of wharves or piers for the use of the ship- 
 ping, on the East River, is 60 ; on the Hudson, 53. The 
 numerous packet ships, and most of the foreign vessels lie 
 in the East River. 
 
 The amount of capital invested in marine insurance is 
 over three millions of dollars, exclusive of companies for 
 mutual assurance. There are twenty-three Fire Insur- 
 ance Companies, with an aggregate capital of six millions. 
 
 The number of Banks is twenty-nine, having a capital 
 of about twenty-five millions. 
 
 There are two Gas Light Companies, with a capital of 
 $1,500,000. The Farmers' Loan and Trust Company 
 Las a capital of $2,000,000, and the Life Insurance and 
 Trust Company a capital of $1,000,000. 
 
 The rapid increase of the city in population, wealth, 
 trade and navigation, during the last fifteen or twenty 
 years, is attributable for the most part to the opening of 
 the Erie canal, and other internal improvements. 
 BUILDINGS. 
 
 The number of dwelling houses in the city in 1840, 
 was 16,458 ; dwellings with stores, 6,614; stores and of- 
 ces, 3,855 ; other buildings, 5,189 ; making a grand to- 
 tal of 32,116 buildings of diff'erent kinds. 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 29 
 
 CROTON AQUEDUCT. 
 
 This Aqueduct, for supplying the city of New- York 
 with pure and wholesome water, is one of the most ad- 
 mirable works of the kind to be found in any country. 
 Excluding the Grand Reservoir, 5 miles long and having 
 an area of about 400 acres, occupying the bed and valley 
 of the Croton river, the length of the Aqueduct, from the 
 Dam which forms that Reservoir, to the Distributing Re- 
 servoir on Murray Hill in New- York, is 40^ miles. The 
 Dam is placed, in the Croton river, about 6 miles from its 
 confluence with the Hudson ; and it elevates the water in 
 the Reservoir 40 feet to the level of the Aqueduct Head, 
 or 166 feet above the top line of mean-tide in the Hud- 
 son. Passing from the Dam down the Croton valley 
 about 6 miles, the Aqueduct turns into the valleyof the 
 Hudson and runs southerly through Westchester county, 
 32.88 miles, to the verge of the Harlem River valley. 
 
 Throughout this distance the Aqueduct is a continuous 
 conduit of stone and brick masonry. The width of the 
 the Harlem valley, at the height of the conduit level, is 
 about 1,450 feet, or a little more than } mile ; and the A- 
 queduct crosses it in cast-iron pipes of 3 feet bore, on a 
 level 114 feet above the ordinary high- water surface of 
 the river. On reaching the southern verge of this valley, 
 on the Island of New- York, the pipes give place again to 
 the conduit of masorry, which thus continues for 2 miles 
 and a fraction over, to the verge of the high ground over- 
 looking the Manhattan valley. At that point the conduit 
 level is 102 feet higher than the bottom of the valley, 
 which, at the height of the level, is a fraction ever | 
 mile wide. The conduit passes this valley in cast-iron 
 pipes, of the bore already stated, following the valley- 
 curve ; and on ascending to the southern verge of the 
 curves the pipes again give place to the conduit of ma- 
 
30 DESCRIPTIOW OF 
 
 sonry, which, crossing the Asylum ridge in Blooming- 
 dale, and the Clendenning valley, runs a little more than 
 two mil^s, to the great Receiving Reservoir, on York- 
 Hill, 5 miles and a little over from the City Hall. 
 
 This Receiving Reservoir includes an area of 35 
 acres, being 1,826 feet long by 836 feet wide, measuring 
 from the external angles of the enclosing embankment, 
 and it is divided by a cross wall into two parts of unequal 
 capacities. From this Reservoir the Aqueduct, with a 
 conduit of cast-iron pipes of the size before mentioned, 
 continues a fraction over 2 miles, to the Distributing 
 Reservoir at Murray Hill. Itis 420 feet square, as mea- 
 sured on the cornice of the outer wall ; it contains an area 
 of a little more than 4 acres, divided into two equal parts 
 by a partition wall ; its enclosing walls have an average 
 height of 44^ feet above the adjacent streets, and it is 3 
 miles from the City Hall. 
 
 From this Reservoir the water is drawn in large cast- 
 iron pipes called the Great Mains, which lead through 
 the central parts of the city, and from which the distri- 
 bution of the water for use, is made by pipes of various 
 dimensions, diminishing in size as the ramifications ex- 
 tend. 
 
 The aggregate length of the Great Mains is about four 
 miles ; and if they be included in the linear measure- 
 ment, together with the Croton Reservoir above the Dam, 
 the entire distance falls but little short of 50 miles. 
 
 Of the excavation required for grading the line and 
 constructing the Aqueduct, the larger moiety was of 
 rock, and amounted to somewhat more than 400,000 cu- 
 bic yards. 
 
 The shape of the country for much of the way presents 
 a succession of transverse ridges and ravines, to be cut, 
 tunneled, or embanked, and swelling the cost of the work. 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 31 
 
 The whole number of tunnels is 16, varying in length 
 from 160 feet to 1,263 feet each, and making a total of 
 6,841 feet, with roofs varying from 25 feet to 75 feet in 
 vertical depth. 
 
 In Westchester county 25 streams are crossed, with 
 beds from 12 feet to 70 feet below the grade line of the 
 Aqueduct, to say nothing of many small brooks, and all 
 requiring, for the safety of the work, culverts of mason- 
 ry. The whole number of culverts is 114, varying in 
 span, from 1| feet to 25 feet each, and making an ag- 
 gregate length of 7,959 linear feet. 
 
 The grandest structure is the Bridge over the Harlem 
 River and valley. The width of the river itself is 620 
 feet, and that of the valley a little more than a quarter 
 of a mile, which is the length of the Bridge. The arches 
 over the river are 8 in number, with a span of 80 feet 
 each, springing from stone piers 20 feet wide at the spring- 
 line, which is 60 feet above the surface of the river at 
 high- water mark ; and the arches being semicircles, the 
 spring is half the span, making the whole height 100 feet 
 from the river surface to the soffit, or under side of the 
 centre of these arches. On the north side of these 
 large arches are 6 others and on the south side one, of 50 
 feet span each, resting on piers 7 feet wide, which, with 
 the abutment at each end, complete the supports of the 
 Bridge. The parapet walls and the whole superstructure 
 are of stone j the whole width at the top of the parapets 
 being 21 feet, and the height at the same line being 114 
 feet above the water. These dimensions give the exter- 
 nal aspect of this magnificent work. 
 
 The Receiving Reservoir at York Hill, is formed 
 with vast earth embankments perfectly puddled, protect- 
 ed externally by massy walls of stone masonry, and de- 
 
32 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 signed to contain 20 feet depth of water measuring 150 
 millions of gallons. 
 
 The Distributing Reservoir, at Murray Hill, is 
 formed with double and hollow walls of heavy masonry. 
 Their least height is 39 feet and their greatest 49 feet, 
 strengthened at the corners with pilasters, or buttresses, 
 projecting from the wall- face four feet and being 40 feet 
 wide, while at the points equi-distant from the corners 
 these buttresses are 60 feet wide, projecting from the wall- 
 face six feet. In both cases they rise several feet above the 
 top of the walls, which is guarded all round with an iron 
 railing running along the cornice. In the central pilasters 
 are doors leading to the pipe-chambers in the walls where 
 the cocks are regulated. The inside of these walls is 
 strengthened with a sloping and heavy puddled embank- 
 ment, faced with rubble masonry and coped with cut stone. 
 The bottom of the Reservoir is a dense hardpan, covered 
 with puddle two feet thick, and then floored one foot 
 thick with hydraulic concrete. 
 
 This Reservoir is calculated to hold 30 feet depth of 
 water, with its surface 115 feet above mean- tide, and 
 measuring 20 millions of gallons. 
 
 The first contracts for construction, were made in April 
 1837, and the work commenced in the next month. The 
 whole work was so far completed that the water was let 
 in from the Croton Dam, June 22d 1842, and was admit- 
 ted into the Distributing Reservoir, on the 4th of July 
 following. The event of its completion, so far as to afford 
 an abundant and constant supply of water, was celebrated 
 with great pomp and parade on the 14th day of Oct. 1842. 
 The total cost of this noble and useful work, will amount 
 to about $12,000,000. 
 
 But the supply of pure and wholesome water to the in- 
 habitants of New- York, for all culinary and household 
 
JTEW-YORK CITY. 33 
 
 uses, does not, by any means, constitute the whole value of 
 this great work. The supply of pure water, in larger abun- 
 dance, to public bathing-houses and hospitals — its aid in 
 cleaning streets — its utility as a permanent and ready pro- 
 tection against fires, and its consequent influence in re- 
 ducing the expense of insurance and enhancing the value 
 of property — all conducive to the health, comfort, safety and 
 economy of life — are important blessings resulting from 
 this work, and they are certain to multiply with the 
 growth of the city. Nor are these all its advantages. 
 Even the means thus afforded for the mere embellishment 
 of the city with fountains in the public squares, should 
 not be overlooked ; for whatever adds to its attractions as 
 a place of residence, is an obvious and substantial benefit 
 to all classes, and especially to the holders of real estate. 
 Of this mode of embellishment several specimens have 
 already been furnished, and the Fountains in the Bowling 
 Green, the Park, Union Place, and St. John's Park, are 
 celebrated for the height of their jets, and for picturesque 
 beauty of design and general eff'ect. 
 
 FIRE DEPARTMENT. 
 
 The FiKE Depaktment is well organized, and cost 
 during the year 1841, $76,788.53 ; there were 48 engines, 
 33 hose carriages, '48,450 feet hose, 47 ladders, 53 hooks, 
 and 7 hook and ladder trucks, belonging to the Depart- 
 ment. The number of engine companies was 48, hose 
 companies 34, hook and ladder companies 7, hydrant com- 
 panies 3, and the number of men in the Department 1,639. 
 
 CITY COURTS. 
 
 The Courts in the city of local jurisdiction, are the fol- 
 lowing : The Superior Court, composed of a Chief Jus- 
 tice and two Justices ; the Court of Common Pleas, or 
 County Court, consisting of a First Judge, and two A&- 
 
34 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 sociate Judges, together with the Mayor, Recorder and 
 Aldermen, Judges ex- officio ; the Vice- Chancellor and 
 Assistant Vice- Chancellor's Courts ; the Marine Court, 
 (jurisdiction limited to $100, except in marine cases,) 
 and six Justices' or Ward Courts, (limited to $50.) 
 
 CITY POLICE. 
 
 The Police of the city depends for its efficiency on the 
 personal character of the Mayor, its head ; but the sys- 
 tem is believed to be extremely defective. There were 
 confined in the Penitentiary on Blackwell's Island, at the 
 close of 1841, 842 convicts — 396 males and 446 females. 
 Of this number 230 were sentenced by the criminal courts, 
 and the remainder were vagrants committed by Justices 
 of the Police. 
 
 The number of Watchmen employed at night, is 956, 
 at an average expense of over $200,000 per annum. 
 
 rERRIES. 
 
 The public Ferries, running from the city of New- York 
 to adjacent places, are as follow : 
 
 South Ferry, from Whitehall- st. to Atlantic-st. Brooklyn. 
 Fulton Ferry, " Fulton-st. " Fulton-st. " 
 
 Catharine Fer. " Catharine-st. '' Main-st. '' 
 
 Walnut Ferry, " Walnut-st. '' Jackson-st. " 
 
 Peck Slip Fer. " Peck Slip, to S. 7th. st. Williamsburgh. 
 Grand-st. Fer. '' Grand-st. to Grand-st. '* 
 
 Houston Fer. " Houston-st. to " " 
 
 Hell-Gate Fer. '^ Eighty-Sixth-st. to Astoria, Long-Isla'd. 
 Staten Is. Fer. '* Battery Place to Staten Island. 
 Jersey City Fr. " Cortlandt-st. " Jersey City, New-Jer. 
 Barclay-st. Fr. " Barclay-st. '' Hoboken, *' 
 
 Canal-st. Fer. '' Canal-street '' " ^' 
 
 Christopher-st. Fr. from Christopher st. to Hoboken,N. J. 
 Fort-Lee and Bull's Fer. from Canal-st. to Fort-Lee, " 
 
NEW-YORK CITY. 35 
 
 STEAMBOATS AND PACKETS. 
 
 Steamboats leave the city daily during the greater part 
 of the year for Albany, Troy, Hudson, Poughkeepsie, 
 Newburgh, Peekskill, Haverstraw, Sing-Sing, Piermont, 
 and other places on the Hudson. For Providence and 
 Nevv^port in Rhode-Island. Stonington, Norwich, New- 
 London, Hartford, New-Haven, Bridgeport, and Stam- 
 ford, in Connecticut, by Long Island Sound. For Eliza- 
 bethport, Newark, Amboy, New-Brunswick, and Shrews- 
 bury, in New- Jersey ; and for various landings on Long 
 Island. 
 
 Steamers also plybetween this city and London; Liver- 
 pool, and Bristol, England. 
 
 Lines of packet ships sail with great regularity to va- 
 rious ports in Europe, the West Indies, South America, 
 and the United States. 
 
 RAILROADS. 
 
 New- York and Philadelphia Railroad Lines. 
 
 In addition to the Camden and Amhoy Railroad^ which 
 connects with a line of Steamboats, landing near the 
 Battery ; there is the New- Jersey Railroad, commencing 
 at Jersey City, opposite Cortlandt-street, connecting with 
 a line of railroads extending to Philadelphia, 86 miles. 
 Passengers leave New-York, by the latter route, from 
 the foot of Liberty-street j being conveyed to Jersey City 
 in a commodious steam ferry boat. 
 
 Elizabethtown and Somerville Railroad. 
 
 Passengers by this Railroad and Steamboat Line, leave 
 New- York from the foot of Battery Place, touching at 
 New-Brighton and Port Richmond, on Staten Island. 
 
 Paterson and Hudson Railroad. 
 
 Passengers going to Paterson, N. J., 17 miles by rail- 
 road, leave New- York from the foot of Cortlandt-street. 
 
36 RAILROADS AND STAGES. 
 
 Long-Island Railroad. 
 
 Passengers by this route leave New- York from the foot 
 of Whitehall-street, for different places on Long-Island. 
 This railroad is now finished from Brooklyn to Smith- 
 town, Suffolk county, a distance ol 47 miles. 
 Harlem Railroad. 
 
 Passengers leave the city from near the City Hall, for 
 the different places on the line of the Harlem Railroad, 
 which is now finished to Williams' Bridge, a distance of 
 14^ miles, on Bronx river. • 
 
 New-York and Erie Railroad. 
 
 A Steamboat leaves New-York daily, from the foot of 
 Duane- street, for Piermont, a distance of 24 miles; con- 
 necting with cars running on this railroad to* Goshen and 
 Middletown, in Orange county, a further distance of 53 
 miles. 
 
 Stages for Milford, Honesdale and Binghamton, run 
 from the cars on their arrival at Middletown. 
 
 STAGES. 
 
 A line of Stages run from New- York, through New- 
 Jersey and into Pennsylvania ; thence to Binghamton in 
 the state of New- York, connecting with a line of travel 
 north to Utica, and west to Owego. 
 
 Stages usually leave Cortlandt- street, during the winter 
 months, for Albany and the intermediate places on the 
 east side of the Hudson river ; while a line runs from the 
 New- York and Erie Railroad, diverging from Turner's 
 Depot, on the west side of the river. 
 
 Stages leave the Bowery several times daily, for Har- 
 lem, Manhattanville and difl'erent places in Westchester 
 county. 
 
 Stages also leave Franklin Square and Brooklyn, for 
 Flushing, Jamaica, Fort Hamilton, and other places on 
 ,Long Island. 
 
VICINITY OF NEW-YORK. 37 
 
 FASHIONABLE PLACES OF RESORT IN THE 
 VICINITY OF THE CITY OF NEW-YORK. 
 
 In the vicinity of New- York are mjmerous places of 
 resort, which are easily reached by means of Steamboats, 
 Railroads and Stages. Among the most favorite Steam- 
 boat Excursions, may be named a trip to any of the va- 
 rious places on the Hudson river — to Staten Island — to 
 Shrewsbury and Long Branch — and through the East Ri- 
 ver, to the various places on both sides of Long Island 
 Sound J being all delightful, especially during the warm 
 season. 
 
 The resorts on the Hudson, most worthy of a visit, 
 are fully described under the head of the " Hudson Ri- 
 ver and its Vicinity. ^^ 
 
 Staten Island, lying about six miles to the south of 
 the city, surrounded in part by the beautiful bay of New- 
 York, presents many attractions, and is much frequented. 
 Steamboats leave New- York several times during the 
 day, from the foot of Whitehall- street, for Tompkins- 
 ville and Stapleton, both facing the Quarantine Ground ; 
 also, from the foot of Battery Place, for New-Brighton 
 and Port Richmond, on Staten Island Sound. 
 
 The Ocean House, near Sandy Hook, is much re- 
 sorted to during the summer months. 
 
 Shrewsbury, Red Banks and Tinton Falls, all 
 situated on a stream called Shrewsbury River, which emp- 
 ties into the ocean near Sandy Hook, are also favorite 
 resorts. A steamboat leaves New- York daily, from near 
 Fulton Market on the East River, for the above places. 
 
 Long Branch, 30 miles southof the city of New- York, 
 is on the eastern shore of New- Jersey, facing the Atlantic 
 Ocean, and affords a grand view of the coast for many 
 miles. This is an old and fashionable resort for those 
 who are fond of fishing or sea bathing, for which pur- 
 
38 VICINITY OF NEW-YORK. 
 
 pose it is considered equal to any resort in the vicinity of 
 New- York or Philadelphia. 
 
 Cape May, at the mouth of Delaware Bay, the ex- 
 treme south part of New-Jersey, has of late attracted 
 much attention as a watering place ; extensive accommo- 
 dations are now being erected for the convenience of 
 visiters. 
 
 The places of resort on Long Island are numerous 
 and present various attractions during warm weather, to 
 invalids and seekers of pleasure. 
 
 The city of Brooklyn, connected with New- York by 
 four ferries, on which are placed commodious steam ferry 
 boats, is a place of healthy and delightful residence, and 
 much resorted to by pedestrians. The United States 
 Navy Yard, on Wallabout Bay is well worthy of a visit. 
 Greenwood Cemetery, near Gowanus, two or three 
 miles south of the city of New- York, is a romantic and 
 well selected burial place for the dead. 
 
 Flatbush, on the road to Fort Hamilton and Coney 
 Island, is delightfully situated, distant 3 miles from 
 Brooklyn. 
 
 East New- York, Union Race Course, and Jamai- 
 ca, are all situated on the line of the Long-Island Rail- 
 road, and are easily reached by cars or stages. 
 
 The village of Hempstead, 23 miles from Brooklyn, 
 by railroad, is celebrated as being a delightful place of 
 residence, and a favorite resort. 
 
 All who are fond of sea bathing, the invigorating sea 
 breeze, or hunting and fishing, may find abundunt grati- 
 fication at 
 
 Fort Hamilton, situated at the " Narrows," where 
 has recently been opened a commodious hotel ; at 
 
 Bath House, on Gravesend Bay, an old and favorite 
 resort ; or at 
 
VICIlSriTY OP NEW-YORK. 39 
 
 Coney Island, facing the Atlantic ocean, where are 
 several well kept public houses. 
 
 Stages leave Brooklyn several times daily, during the 
 summer months, for the above fashionable resorts, pas- 
 sing through the pleasant villages of Flatbush and 'New 
 Utrecht. 
 
 RocKAWAY Beach, with its splendid hotel, the Ma- 
 rine Pavilion, and other public houses, has been long 
 and deservedly a favorite resort during warm weather. 
 The most desirable mode of conveyance to Rockaway, is 
 by railroad cars to Jamaica, and thence by stage ; being 
 distant about 20 miles from the city of New- York. 
 
 Besides these, there are other agreeable and still more 
 retired retreats on the south side of Long Island, farther 
 east. In Great South Bay, extending from Hempstead 
 to Southampton, a distance of 50 miles, are to be found 
 inexhaustible quantities of scale and shell fish of difFe* 
 rent kinds, and countless numbers of wild fowl. 
 
 Montauk Point, the eastern extremity of Long Is- 
 land, 140 miles from the city of New- York — with its 
 rugged and beetling clifi's — its foaming breakers, and the 
 mighty ocean in front, is a spot surrounded by great 
 grandeur and beauty. 
 
 Flushing, 9 miles east of New- York, is a delightful 
 and retired place of residence and resort. Here is situa- 
 ted the LinncEan Botanic Garden, which possesses many 
 attractions and is much visited. 
 
 Glen-Cove, Oyster Bay and Cold Springs, on the 
 north side of Long Island, are also much frequented in 
 summer. 
 
 New-Rochelle, and other places on the Westches- 
 ter shore of Long Island Sound, are also well worthy of 
 a visit, and are much resorted to during the summer 
 months by fashionable visiters. 
 
40 VICINITY OF NEW-YORK. 
 
 Daily lines cf steamboatSj in addition to stages, run 
 from the city of New- York, to most of the places on both 
 sides of Long Island Sound, affording cheap and speedy 
 modes of conveyance. 
 
 Various places on the Island of New- York, and in 
 Westchester county, near the line of the Harlem. Rail- 
 road, are also much visited. Stages leave the present 
 termination of the railroad at Williams' Bridge, for "West- 
 Farms, Eastchester, New-Rochelle Mamaroneck, Rye 
 and Port- Chester on the Sound, and White Plains, and 
 other places in the interior of Westchester county. 
 
 ■ In the neighboring region of New-Jersey, also, are 
 several places of much interest, not only to the lover of 
 the picturesque, but to the social economist ; and they 
 are easily reached by the railroads Vvhich diverge from 
 Jersey City opposite New- York, Among these, besides 
 Hoboken, Weehawken, the Elysian Fields, and other 
 points near the shore of the Hudson, are the Passaic 
 Falls, near the celebrated manufacturing village of 
 Paterson, distant 17 miles from New-York. The whole 
 descent of the Passaic, at this spot, is from 60 to 70 
 feet. In the first portion of its descent the river rushes 
 over a steep slope of deeply rifted rock, and then makes 
 a clear pitch of some 30 or 40 feet into a narrow, wedge- 
 shaped and transverse chasm, with a high wall of perpen- 
 dicular rock fronting the falls and right athwart the course 
 of the stream, compelling the boiling waters to pass out 
 of the chasm nearly at right angles with their previous 
 direction, into the broad and black pool immediately be- 
 low, which is walled in, for many rods on each side of 
 the gorge, by perpendicular cliffs cf naked rock 80 or 90 
 feet high, greatly augmenting the grandeur of the scene. 
 As the river escapes from this magnificent basin, it 
 makes another sharp angle, and thus resuming nearly 
 
VICIWITY OF NEW-YORK. 41 
 
 the direction of the current ahove the falls, it flows away 
 with a gentle descent through a fertile and cultivated val. 
 ley of meadow, pasture, and arable lands. The con- 
 trasts presented by the scene are various and striking, 
 greatly enhancing its beauty, especially when the volume 
 of the river is swelled by heavy rains. Of late years, 
 however, some of the finest features of the place are im- 
 paired in their expression by the diversion of much of the 
 water, taken out above the falls and led away through 
 the village of Paterson, for hydraulic uses. Still, the 
 loss thus suffered by the picturesque, is amply compen- 
 sated by gain to the useful, and by the associated images 
 of individual and social benefit, of improving arts, and 
 general prosperity. 
 
 The Morris Canal passes a little to the south of Pas- 
 saic Falls, on its roiUe from Jersey City across the state 
 to the Delaware river, which it reaches at Easton, dis- 
 tant from the Hudson 100 miles by this line. 
 
 Newark, Elizabethtown, New Brunswick, and 
 other places on the line of the New Jersey Railroad, are 
 easily reached by means of steamboats and railroad cars. 
 MoRRisTowN, 22 miles from Newark, is connected 
 with the latter place by railroad, passing through the vil- 
 lage of Orange, where there is a Mineral Spring of con- 
 siderable celebrity. 
 
 Schooley's Mountain, w^hich is usually approached 
 from New- York by means of railroad and stages passing 
 through Elizabethtown and Somerville, is a place of much 
 fashionable resort, during the summer months, owing to 
 its high, airy, and healthy situation. The extensive 
 prospect afforded from its top, on which is located an 
 excellent public house, is perhaps unrivalled. 
 
 Belmont Hall, situated on the highest part of the moun- 
 tain, 2,000 feet above tide water, is surrounded by a park 
 
 D 
 
42 EASTERN LINES OF TRAVEL. 
 
 of many acres richly adorned with forest, fruit, and orna- 
 mental trees. The proprietor has left nothing undone to 
 give general satisfaction to his numerous visiters. A 
 short distance from the hotel are Mineral Springs, where 
 much has recently been expended for the comfort of visi- 
 ters washing to enjoy this pure chalybeate at the fountain. 
 The distance from the city of New York to Elizabeth- 
 port, by steamboat, is 12 miles ; from Elizabethport to 
 Somerville, by railroad, 26 miles ; from SomerviJle to 
 Schooley's Mountain, by stage, 20 miles. Passengers 
 from Philadelphia, usually leave the railroad cars at 
 New Brunswick and proceed to the mountain by stage. 
 
 EASTERN LINES OF TRAVEL THROUGH 
 LONG ISLAND SOUND. 
 
 There are at present three great lines of travel be- 
 tween the cities of New- York and Boston, by steamboats 
 and railroad cars. 
 
 1. A line of Steamboats leave New-York for New Ha- 
 ven, daily, Sundays excepted, from Peck slip. East River, 
 at 6 o'clock A. M. in summer, and at 7 A. M. in winter. 
 Distance, 80 miles. The New Haven and Hartford 
 Railroad, extends from Hew Haven to Hartford, a further 
 distance of 3S miles. 
 
 A line of Steamboats also run direct from New- York to 
 Hartford, via Saybrook, daily, Sundays excepted, from 
 the 1st April to 1st December. In winter, passengers 
 for Hartford are carried via New Haven. 
 
 From Hartford, a line of travel extends up the valley 
 of the Connecticut river ; at Springfield, a distance of 25 
 miles, it intersects the Western Railroad of Massachu- 
 setts, one of the great links of railroads extending from 
 Boston to Buffalo, a total distance of 525 miles. 
 Distance from Springfield to Boston, by railroad, 93 miles. 
 " " Albany, " 102 miles. 
 
EASTERN LINES OF TRAVEL. 43 
 
 2. A line of Steamboats leave New- York for New 
 London and Norwich, daily, Sundays excepted, starting 
 from Pier No. 1, North River, at 5 o'clock P. M. in the 
 summer and 4 P. M. in winter. Distance to Norwich by 
 water. 133 miles. 
 
 The Norwich and Worcester Railroad now extends 
 from Allen's Point, 7 miles below Norwich, to Worces- 
 ter, Mass., a whole distance of 66 miles, connecting 
 with the great east and west line already mentioned. 
 Distance from Worcester to Boston, by railroad, 44 miles. 
 The total distance between New-York and Boston, by this 
 route, is 235 miles j usual time, 15 hours. 
 
 3. A line of Steamboats of the first class, leave New- 
 York daily, Sundays excepted, in the afternoon, from the 
 foot of Battery Place, for Stonington, Newport and Pro« 
 vidence, connecting with railroads running to Boston. 
 
 At Stonington, 135 miles from New- York, by water, 
 commences the Providence and Stonington Railroad^ 
 extending to Providence, a distance of 47 miles. The 
 Boston and Providence Railroad, extends a further dis- 
 tance of 42 miles j making the total distance between 
 New- York and Boston, by this route, 224 miles ; usual 
 time, 14 1 hours. 
 
 HOUSATONIC ROUTE BETWEEN NEW-YORK 
 
 AND ALBANY. 
 
 In addition to the above lines cf travel through Long 
 Island Sound, and the states of Connecticut, Rhode Is* 
 land, and Massachusetts — a Steamboat leaves New- York, 
 daily, Sundays excepted, for Bridgeport, Conn. ; distance 
 60 miles. During the close of navigation on the Hudson 
 River, this is the most expeditious and desirable routie 
 between the commercial and political capitals cf the state 
 of New- York. 
 
44 HOUSATONIC ROUTE. 
 
 At Bridgeport commences the Housatonic Railroad, 
 which, in connection with the Berkshire Railroad, and 
 the Jllhany and West Stockbridge Railroad, unites the 
 cities of New- York and Albany, by one connected line of 
 steamboats and railroads. Total distance, 198 miles ; 
 usual time, 15 hours. 
 
 Distances between New-York and Albany, via 
 Bridgeport. 
 
 To Bridgeport, by Steamboat, 60 miles. 
 
 Stepney, by Railroad, 10 70 '* 
 
 Bottsford, 5 75 " 
 
 Newtown, 5 80 " 
 
 Brook-field, 10 90 " 
 
 Housatonic River, 6 96 " 
 
 New Milford, 1 97 " 
 
 Gaylcrd's Bridge, 6 103 '' 
 
 Kent, 6 109 '' 
 
 Cornwall, 12 121 '' 
 
 Canaan Falls Village, 6 127 " 
 
 Connecticut State Line, 7 134 
 
 Sheffield, Mass 6 140 
 
 Great Barrington, 6 146 
 
 West Stockbridge, 12 158 
 
 New-York State Line, 2 160 
 
 Tunnel, (600 feet long,) 2 162 
 
 Chatham Four Corners, 13 175 
 
 Kinderhook, 7 182 
 
 Schodack, 8 190 
 
 Albany, ...... ..0....C. 8 198 
 
 i( 
 
 It 
 
I'/. / /^ DJ'' cf'hjj^ .// ^ vj.y oy i{ I ' 'J^^R 
 
 AVilh die dJa 
 
HUDSON RIVER AND ITS VICINITY. 
 
 During the season of navigation on the Hudson, which 
 usually extends from about the 20th of March to the fore- 
 part of December, numerous steamboats leave the city of 
 New- York every morning and evening, for various pla- 
 ces on both shores of the river. The boats of the largest 
 class, nowhere excelled for comfort and speed, run through 
 to Albany and Troy, about 150 miles, in ten to twelve 
 hours running time, and touch at the principal villages 
 on the way, to land and receive passengers. Usual fare 
 
 •v. 
 
 through. $2.00, including berths in the night boats. 
 
 To the traveller for pleasure and health, the day boats 
 are the most desirable, particularly in hot weather, when 
 a night's confinement in a crowded cabin is very oppres- 
 sive ; and they furnish a fine opportunity to enjoy the 
 varied and beautiful scenery of this noble river. 
 
 The panoramic view on leaving the city is extensive 
 and grand. Seaward it embraces parts of Long Island 
 and Staten Island with the '' Narrows," — the spacious 
 Bay of New- York studded with Governor's, Bedlow's, 
 and Ellis's Islands — the Jersey shore, on the west, with 
 its settlements and cultivated fields — and on the east the 
 city itself with its long ranges of wharves and shipping, 
 its spires, and its masses of architecture — and as the boat 
 rounds out upon the bosom of the majestic river and 
 springs forward on her upward course, the view, crowded 
 with striking contrasts and full of life and action, is one 
 of rare beauty and interest. 
 
 Jersey City opposite the lower part of New- York, 
 and HoBOKEN a mile north, are seen to great advantage 
 
46 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 as the steamboat leaves the wharf. At the former place 
 commences the Neiv Jersey j and Pater son Railroads ; 
 and the latter place is a delightful and favorite resort of 
 the citizens of New- York, during the warm summer sea- 
 son, when the commodious steam ferry boats are crowd- 
 ed every afternoon with parties of both sexes, seeking 
 refreshment from the heated and thronged streets of the 
 city, in that charming retreat. 
 
 Weehawken, on the Jersey shore north of Hoboken 
 and 3 miles from New- York, a high wooded cliif, with its 
 bold rocky bluffs partly veiled with trees and partly bare, 
 and a handsome villa on its summit is one of the finest 
 points in the scene as you move up the river. At the 
 foot of this cliff' and on the margin of the river a small 
 obelisk of white marble for many years marked the spot 
 where Alexander Hamilton fell in his fatal duel with 
 Aaron Burr, on the 12th July, 1804. The monument, 
 however, has long since been removed. 
 
 Bull's Ferry, 2 to 3 miles further north, on the 
 game shore, is a place of considerable resort, being con- 
 nected with the city by a steam ferry. 
 
 Bloomingdale, on York Island, 5 miles from the City 
 Hall, is a scattered settlement, in which the most promi- 
 nent object is the Orphan Asylum, which, as seen from 
 the river, with its green lawn extending to the water's 
 edge and surrounded by a fine grove, presents a pleasing 
 aspect. 
 
 About 3 miles further up the island, or 8 miles from the 
 City Hall, is the Lunatic Asylum, a stately pile stand- 
 ing on elevated ground. 
 
 The next conspicuous object on the island, and visible 
 from the Hudson, isMANHATTANviLLE, about a mile and 
 a half east of which, toward the East River and near 
 Hell-Gate, is the village of Harlem. 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 47 
 
 Fort Washington, 2 miles north of Manhattanville, 
 is elevated 238 feet above the river, being the highest 
 point on the island of New- York. This old fort was 
 captured by the British and Hessians, in the disastrous 
 campaign of 1776, when some two or three thousand Amer- 
 icans were either killed or taken captive, and thrown into 
 the prison-ships at the Wallabout Bay, where the United 
 States now have an extensive Navy- Yard, near Brooklyn. 
 
 Fort Lee, on the Jersey shore, 10 miles from New- 
 York, is a place of considerable interest, and between it 
 and that city a steam ferry boat plies daily. The site of 
 the old fort is on the brow of the Palisades, a short dis- 
 tance from the river and elevated about 300 feet above it. 
 It was surrendered to the British in 1776, immediately 
 after the capture of Fort Washington. 
 
 The Palisades, the most striking and peculiar feature 
 of the scenery on either side of the Hudson, commence a 
 little north of Weehawken, and on the same shore. This 
 descriptive designation has been given to a majestic range 
 of columnar rock, varying in height from 50 feet to 3 and 
 400 feet, and walling in the Hudson as far as Piermont, 
 a distance of 20 miles. Just above Fort Lee they rise, 
 almost perpendicularly, from the water's edge ; and as 
 the channel of the river, for the whole 20 miles, runs 
 very near the west side and along the base of these ma- 
 jestic cliffs, they are seen to great advantage from the 
 decks of the steamboats. 
 
 Spuvten Duyvel Creek flows into the Hudson 13 
 miles north of the City Hall of New- York, and connects 
 with the Harlem river on the east, thus separating the 
 Island of New- York from Westchester county. Kings- 
 bridge, on the great post-road from New- York to Albany, 
 crosses this creek about a mile from its mouth, near which 
 on the north bank, is the site of old Fort Independence, 
 
48 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 Here commences a succession of beautifully situated 
 country residences, looking out upon the river and across 
 it to the Palisades ; the shore itself being marked by a 
 succession of narrow valleys and ridges running back with 
 a gradual ascent to the north and south range of highland, 
 which separates the waters flowing into the Hudson, from 
 those which pass off to the East River and Long Island 
 Sound. As you advance up through Westchester, this 
 north and south ridge becomes more elevated and rocky. 
 It is, in fact, the commencement of that extensive and 
 lofty range which soon enlarges itself into the Fishkill 
 Mountains, further north swells into the still loftier Tagh- 
 kanic group, and finally attains its highest grandeur in 
 the Green Mountains of Vermont. 
 
 YoNKERS, 17 miles north of New- York, is a thriving 
 village in Westchester county, at the mouth of Saw-mill 
 river. It contains about 80 dwelling houses and some 500 
 or 600 inhabitants, and is the summer resort of many citi- 
 zens of New-York, being easily reached by the steam- 
 boats which ply daily between that city, Sing-Sing an:l 
 Peekskill. It is surrounded by very pleasant scenery and 
 commands a fine view of the Hudson and the Palisades. 
 
 Hastings, 3 miles north of Yonkers, is a convenient 
 landing-place, at which the smaller steamboats touch to 
 receive and discharge passengers. 
 
 Dobb's Ferry, 22 miles north of New- York, is a small 
 settlement with a steamboat wharf. This was an impor- 
 tant point in the military operations of the Revolutionary 
 war. A ferry communicates with the opposite shore at 
 the foot of the Palisades, a little north of the boundary 
 line between the States of New-York and New-Jersey ; 
 and from this point northward both sides of the Hudson 
 are in New- York. 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 49 
 
 PiEKMONT, formerly known as Tappan Landing, or 
 the " Sloat," is on the west shore of the Hudson, 24 miles 
 from the city of New- York. It has become a place of 
 importance as the terininus of the New-York and Erie 
 Railroad. The line of this great work, from Piermont 
 to Dunkirk on the shore of Lake Erie, is 446 miles long. 
 In 1841, the section extending from Piermont, which is 
 in the county of Rockland, to Goshen in Orange county, 
 46 miles, was finished and put in operation. Since that 
 time, the completion of 7 miles more, extends the road to 
 Middletown. At Piermont a substantial pier, more than 
 a mile long, has been constructed, extending from the 
 shore to the channel of the Hudson. A steamboat plies 
 daily between this place and New- York, and connects 
 with the cars running on the railroad. At this point, 
 also, the Palisades terminate on the north by an abrupt hill. 
 This hill, and the extensive pie?" already mentioned, be- 
 ing the two most distinguishing features of the place, they 
 have been appropriately combined to form the name of 
 Piermont. 
 
 Distances on the New- York and Ekie' Railroad 
 FnoM Piermont to Middletown. 
 
 To Blauveltville, 4 miles. 
 
 Clarkstown, 5 9" 
 
 Mousey's, 4 13 ** 
 
 SufFern's, 5 18 '' 
 
 Ramapo, 2 20 '' 
 
 Monroe Works, 8 28 " 
 
 Turner's, (17 miles from Newburgh,) . 5 33 " 
 
 Monroe village, 3 36 " 
 
 Chester, 5 41 " 
 
 Goshen, 5 46 '* 
 
 Newhampton, 4 50 '• 
 
 Middletown, 3 53 " 
 
 Two or three miles west from the river is the old vil- 
 lage of Tappan, memorable as having been for a time, 
 
60 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 the Head-Quarters of Washington and the American army 
 during the Revolution, and the place where Major Andre 
 was executed on the 2d of October, 1780. 
 
 Tappan Bay — or, as it was usually called in earlier 
 times, Tappan Sea — heing an expansion of tlie river, 
 commences at Piermont and extends northward to Tel* 
 ler's Point, a distance of 10 miles, with an average wddth 
 of about 3 miles. On the eastern shore of this Bay, in 
 the midst of a beautiful landscape, is the favorite country 
 residence of Washington Irving. Nowhere on either shore 
 of the Hudson is the scenery more distinguished for its 
 picturesque beauty, having the Palisades in full view at 
 the southwest ; at the west and north a fine range of hills 
 jstretching away to the grand mountain masses of the 
 " Highlands," with the broad river between. 
 
 Irving, is the name given to a small settlement about 
 one mile south of the village of 
 
 Tarrytown, which is beautifully situated on the east 
 bank of the river, overlooking Tappan Bay, 27 miles 
 north of the city of New-York. It contains about 100 
 dwelling houses and 1,000 inhabitants. Steamboats run- 
 ning to New- York, touch daily at this place. Immediate- 
 ly north is Beekmantown, where is the Irving Institute, 
 a school of much celebrity, and a venerable Dutch Re. 
 formed Church, erected about the middle of the 17th cen- 
 tury. Tarrytown is famed as being the place where Major 
 Andre was captured while watering his horse, on his re- 
 turn from West Point, and from a personal interview 
 with the traitor, Gen, Arnold. Immediately north of this 
 village, also, is the famous Sleepy Hollow, where Wash- 
 ington Irving laid the scene of his entertaining legend of 
 that name. 
 
 Nyack, on the western side of the bay or river, is a 
 pleasant and thriving place, between which and New- 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 51 
 
 York, a steamboat plies daily. Here Tappan Bay spreads 
 to its greatest width, presenting a noble expanse of water. 
 
 Rockland Lake, 2 or 3 miles northwest of Nyack, 
 is a picturesque sheet of the purest water, from which 
 large quantities of ice are annually sent to the New- York 
 market. 
 
 Sing-Sing is handsomely situated on the east bank of 
 the Hudson river. It has four landings, from which 
 steamboats and vessels ply daily to and from the city of 
 New- York, a distance of 33 miles. The main part of 
 the village is situated on high and uneven ground, rising 
 180 feet above tide water, and overlooking Tappan and 
 Haverstraw Bays, the Hudson and Crcton rivers, and 
 the surrounding country, including a distant view of the 
 Palisades and the Highlands. Sing- Sing was incorporated 
 in 1813, and now contains about 2,500 inhabitants. This 
 village derives its name from the Indian words " Ossin- 
 Sing," meaning in their language, the place of stone. It 
 is now celebrated for its marble quarries, which are work- 
 ed to a great extent by the state prison convicts, who have 
 here erected 2 large prisons, a keeper's house and several 
 ranges of work shops, from materials found on the state 
 farm ; where is also located a silver mine, which was 
 worked to some extent previous to the Revolution^ and a 
 copper mine which has been more recently worked. The 
 marble found in this vicinity, is of a medium quality and 
 almost inexhaustible ; large quantities are annually quar- 
 ried and sent to the city of New- York and other places. 
 
 The Mount Pleasant State Prison, situated about 
 half a mile south of the village of Sing-Sing, contained 
 in 1840, 827 male and female convicts, of whom 60 were 
 females. The prison grounds consist of 130 acres of land, 
 lying between the villages of Sing-Sing and Sparta ; being 
 bounded on the east by the Highland turnpike, and on the 
 
62 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 west by the Hudson river, which here affords a depth of 
 twelve feet of water at the landing. The main prison 
 building is four hundred and eighty- four feet in length, 
 north and south, and forty-four feet in width, fronting 
 westerly on the Hudson, being 5 stories in height and con- 
 taining 1,000 cells ; in front and rear are located work 
 shops of different kinds, which, together with the keeper's 
 house, are all built of rough dress marble. Attached to 
 the prison building on the south, is a chapel, hospital, 
 kitchen, storehouses, &c. A new prison for female con- 
 victs stands on elevated ground, and is built of marble in 
 the Ionic order. 
 
 Teller's Point, about a mile north of Sing-Sing, 
 separates Tappan from Haverstraw Bay. It projects 
 southerly into the river more than a mile, immediately 
 above the confluence of the Croton river, with the Hud- 
 son. On the opposite side of the river, rises Verdreitje^s 
 Hook, a bold headland 663 feet high, forming a beautiful 
 feature in the landscape. 
 
 Haverstraw Bay, is another expansion of the Hud- 
 son river, 2 to 3 miles wide and 6 miles long, terminating 
 on the north at Verplank's and Stony Points. 
 
 Haverstraw or Warren, lies on the west side of the 
 bay or river, 35 miles from New-York, to which city a 
 steamboat runs daily. 
 
 Grassy Point, 2 miles above, on the same side of the 
 river, is a convenient steamboat landing. 
 
 Verplank's Point, on the east side of the river, 40 
 miles north of the city of New- York is an excellent land- 
 ing place, and memorable from its connection, in the Revo- 
 lutionary war, with Stony Point on the opposite side. On 
 the latter point is now a light house, erected on the site 
 of the old fortification, which completely commanded the 
 channel of the river. These points, where the river Con- 
 
AJVD ITS VICINITY. 53 
 
 tracts to about half a mile in width, were the first im- 
 portant positions north of the city of New- York at which 
 the American forces attempted to defend the passage of 
 the Hudson against the British, in the struggle for inde- 
 pendence. During the winter months, when the river is 
 closed with ice above, steamboats can often reach Ver- 
 plank's Point from New- York, and save the traveller the 
 fatigue of passing over a difficult part of the stage road 
 between the cities of New- York and Albany. 
 
 Caldwell's Landing, on the west side of the river, 
 44 miles from New- York and 101 miles from Albany, is 
 the first place at which steam passage boats of the large 
 class touch on their upward trip, to land and receive pas- 
 sengers. This landing is situated at the south entrance 
 of the '' Highlands," and is connected by a steam ferry 
 with 
 
 Peekskill on the opposite side of the river, a large 
 and thriving village, from which two or three steamboats 
 run directly to the city of New-York, carrying large 
 quantities of produce, manufactured articles, and pas- 
 sengers. It was incorporated in 1827, and now contains 
 2,000 inhabitants, 8 churches, 6 public houses, 30 stores, 
 and about 250 dwellings. 
 
 On Oak Hill, where is now situated the Peekskill 
 Academy, a flourishing chartered institution, is a venerable 
 oak tree on which was hung during the revolutionary war, 
 two noted spies, Strang and Palmer. Peekskill was then 
 the head-quarters of the American army under Gen. Put- 
 nam, who here dated his laconic reply to Sir Henry Clin- 
 ton, commander of the British forces in the city of New- 
 York, who sent up a flag of truce, demanding the release 
 of Edmund Palmer, a lieutenant of a tory regiment, who 
 had been detected in the American camp. The following 
 was the reply sent back by Putnam : 
 
54 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 '' Head-Quurtcrs, 7th Avg. 1777. 
 *'Edrnuii'l Palmer, an officer in the enemy's service, 
 was taken as a spy, lurking within the American lines ; 
 he has been tried as a spy, condemned as a spy, and shall 
 be executed as a spy, and the flag is ordered to depart 
 immediately. 
 
 '' ISRAEL PUTNAM. 
 
 '* P. S. He has been accordingly executed." 
 Stage Lines east from Peekskill. 
 
 A stage runs from Peekskill to Ridgefield, Conn, via 
 Somers and North Salem, every Tuesday, Thursday and 
 Saturday morning : leaving Peekskill at 8 o'clock A. M. 
 The same stage leaves Ridgefield every Monday, Wed- 
 nesday, and Friday morning. 
 
 A stage runs from Peekskill to Carmel village, via 
 Red Mills and Mahopack, every Tuesday, Thursday and 
 Saturday j leaving Peekskill at 2 P. M., and Carmel the 
 same days at 8 A. M. 
 
 During summer, a stage leaves Peekskill every day for 
 Mahopack Lake, and in the hottest of the season, when 
 the lake is most visited, twice a day j leaving Peekskill 
 at 12 M. and at 7 P. M. 
 
 Mahopack Lake, is a beautiful sheet of water in the 
 town of Carmel, Putnam county ; and is one of the chief 
 sources of the Croton river. It is about one mile in 
 diameter and embosoms two or three small islands. The 
 waters abound with various kinds of fish of a fine flavor. 
 It is a place of considerable resort, with good accommo- 
 dations for visiters. 
 
 At Fort Independence, opposite Caldwell's Landing, 
 on the northeast, near the mouth of the Peekskill, a pub* 
 lie house has recently been erected, which is intended for 
 a summer retreat. The situation is delightful, facing down 
 the river with an unobstructed view for many miles, 
 
ITS AND VICIKITY. 55 
 
 while immediately in the rear rise the "Highlands" in 
 majestic grandeur. It is ccntemplated to make this a 
 regular steamboat landing, and also to construct a bridge 
 across the mouth of the creek or bay, which separates it 
 from the village of Peekskiil. 
 
 On leaving Caldwell's landing, the river takes a sudden 
 turn to the west for about a mile ; this reach having the 
 local designation of the " Horse Race," and then re- 
 sumes its northern course, passing between the bold, 
 wooded, and overshadowing hills known as the "High- 
 lands," or " Matteawan Mountains." This latter name, 
 meaning "'the country of good fur," was given by the 
 the Aborigines, and is a fine, distinctive and appropriate 
 name for the whole group. 
 
 The " Highlands," the grandest, and next to the 
 Palisades, the most remarkable feature of the scenery of 
 the Hudson, are about 16 miles in width, and extend in 
 a southwest and northeast direction for seme 20 or 30 
 miles, covering a part of the counties of Rockland and 
 Orange, on the w^est side of the river, and Putnam and 
 Dutchess on the east. Several of their summits reach aa 
 elevation of 1,000 to 1,685 feet. This maybe considered 
 classic ground, as many of the points or eminences in 
 view from the river are celebrated in history for being the 
 scene of stirring events during the struggle for American 
 Independence, 1776 to 1783. 
 
 The sites of old Fort Clinton ojid Montgomery , of revo- 
 lutionary memory, are on the west side of the river, op- 
 posite the lower Anthomfs Nose, 6 miles below West 
 Point. These forts, deemed almost impregnable, were 
 erected at this point for the defence of the river, which 
 was also obstructed by chevaux-de-frise, boom and chains. 
 On the 6th of Oct. 1777, they were attacked by a supe- 
 rior British force under Sir Henry Clinton, and captured 
 
66 PIUDSON RIVER 
 
 after a sharp resistance ; the garrison of 600 men being 
 overpowered by a disciplined army 3,000 strong. The 
 works were resolutely defended until dark, when the ene- 
 my effected an entrance at several places, there not be- 
 ing a sufficient number of soldiers in the fort to man the 
 lines. 
 
 West Point, is romantically situated on the westbanlc 
 of the Hudson river, 52 miles from New-York and 93 
 miles from Albany. It is the seat of the United States 
 military academy, established by an act of Congress, in 
 March, 1802 ; and the land ceded to the United States 
 government by the state of New- York, 1826. Here are 
 now erected two stone barracks, one of three and the 
 other four stories in height, occupied by 250 cadets, which 
 is the number authorized by law ; an academic hall, a 
 large three story stone building, 275 feet in length, by 75 
 feet in width, used for military exercises in winter, an3' 
 as a depository of the chemical apparatus, m.odels of for- 
 tification, artillery, architecture and machines and as re- 
 citation and drawing rooms : a new and beautiful two 
 story stone building, to be used for the library and philo- 
 sophical apparatus, constructed in the Elizabethan style 
 of architecture, and is 150 feet in length by 60 feet in 
 width ; the north front has three towers suited for the as- 
 tronomical apparatus; the centre tower is surmounted by 
 a dome of 28 feet 10 inches in diameter, the whole of 
 which revolves on its vertical axis, adapting it to the use 
 of a large equatorial telescope ; a chapel, a hospital, a 
 mess hall, two cavalry stables, several workshops and 
 store-rooms, and seventeen separate dAvellings occupied 
 by the officers of the institution. In addition to the above, 
 here ara located a magazine, a laboratory, soldiers' bar- 
 racks, a store, and about 25 dwelling houses, occupied by 
 families connected with the military school ; in all con- 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 67 
 
 taining a population of about 900 souls. Here also is a 
 convenient steamboat landing, and a well kept hotel^ cal- 
 culated to accommodate about 100 visiters. 
 
 No place in the Union probably, exceeds West Point in 
 beauty of location and tlie stirring incidents connected 
 with its early history, being '' hallowed by the footsteps 
 of Washington anJ Kosciusko," during the revolutionary 
 straggle — the interest in which, is continued to the pre- 
 sent time by its being the residence and school of the fu- 
 ture defenders of the Union. In 1777, immediately after 
 the capture of Forts Clinton and Montgomery, by the 
 British army. West Point was first occupied by the Ameri- 
 can army, and fortified at the instance of Gov. George 
 Clinton, of Revolutionarj'^ memory. At the present time are 
 to be seen the remains of Forts Putnam and Arnold, 
 (after the treason of the latter, called Fort Clinton,) 
 which is situated on the extreme eastern point of this 
 military position, 160 feet above tide water, Vv^hiie Fort 
 Putnam is situated on Mount Independence, 1,000 yards 
 southvrest, elevated about 500 feet above the river ; 
 there are also numerous other redoubts and batteries, 
 crowning the various eminences in the vicinity, built un- 
 der the direction of the celebrated Kosciusko as engineer. 
 In August, 17S0, Gen. Arnold was assigned to the com- 
 mand of this important military station, extending from 
 Fishkill to Yerplank's Point. On the 25th of September, 
 he precipitately made his escape from his head-quarters, 
 the Rohinson House, situated tv.'o miles below West Point, 
 on the opposite side of the river, his treason having been 
 discovered by the fortunate capture of Major Andre. 
 From this period, to the close of the Revolutionary war 
 in 1783, West Point was garrisoned by a strong division 
 of the American army j after which, the garrison was 
 reduced, and this location made a depot for the revolu- 
 
 E 
 
58 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 tionary armament and other military stores. In 1794, at 
 the recommendation of Gen. Washington, a military 
 school was commenced in a building which was burnt 
 down two years thereafter, and the school suspended un- 
 til 1802. 
 
 There are now connected with the West Point Academy, 
 thirty- four officers and professors, a company of artillery 
 and a detachment of dragoons, besides the cadets, who 
 generally remain here for a period of four years, in 
 which time they are qualified to become subaltern officers 
 of the several corps of the army. 
 
 Visiters on landing at West Point, are required to en- 
 ter their names on a slate, presented by a soldier on duty 
 for that purpose ; it is immediately afterwards taken to 
 the commander's quarters, who is thereby informed of all 
 arrivals. The departures are also regulated in the same 
 manner. No stranger should leave this place without 
 visiting the public buildings ; Kosciusko's Monument, and 
 a wild and romantic retreat near the water's edge, called 
 '' Kosciusko's Garden," the ruins of old Fort Putnam, 
 which commands a view of West Point, the Hudson 
 river, and the surrounding mountain scenery. The Ce- 
 metery, about half a mile north of the hotel, is also well 
 worthy of a visit. On the south, tovs^ards Buttermilk 
 Falls, about a mile distant, there is a pleasant road run- 
 ning near the river, and most of the way through a beau- 
 tiful grove of trees. In this vicinity, and most agreeably 
 located, is an academy for young men, under the superin- 
 tendence of Lieut. Kinsley, formerly an instructor in the 
 West Point Military Academy. 
 
 If the visiter tarries through the day at this attractive 
 place, any time during the summer months, when the ho* 
 tel is usually thronged with fashionable people from 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. fi9 
 
 every section of the Union, he will have an opportunity 
 to view West Point in all its loveliness. 
 
 Cold Spring a mile or more above West Point, on 
 the opposite side of the river, is a thriving manufactur- 
 ing village. Here are situated the extensive iron works 
 commonly known as the " West Point Foundry," and 
 supposed to be on as broad n scale as any in the Union, 
 and a machine shop, giving constant employment to about 
 300 workmen. The largest kind of machinery for steam- 
 boat and other purposes, and warlike implements, are 
 here constructed. The ore on which the works depend, 
 is found in the immediate vicinity ; and there is also a 
 quarry of granite of a very superior quality, eas)' of ac- 
 cess and inexhaustible. 
 
 Beacon Hill and Bkeakneck, both on the east side 
 of the river, are situated immediately above Cold Spring. 
 The former, sometimes called the " Grand Sachem," is 
 the highest peak of the Highlands, being elevated 1,685 
 feet above the river. The latter presents the rocky pro- 
 jection called the " Upper Anthomfs Nose." 
 
 Crow's Nest and Butter Hill, are situated on the 
 west side of the river. They rise abruptly from the wa- 
 ter's edge, the latter, which is the more northerly peak, 
 lifts its summit 1,520 feet above the Hudson j and the 
 other is nearly as high, 
 
 Pollopel's Island, is a mass of rock lying in the 
 Hudson river, near its east shore, at the northern en- 
 trance into the Highlands, 6 miles above West Point. 
 Here the river begins to widen and expand to the width 
 of more than a mile for some 5 or 6 miles, for which dis- 
 tance it is sometimes called Newburgh Bay. 
 
 Cornwall, Canterbury and New- Windsor, are 
 small villages situated on the west side of the river, im- 
 mediately above the Highlands. The last named village 
 
60 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 being distinguished as the birth place of De Witt 
 Clinton. 
 
 Newburgh, 61 miles north of New-York and 84 south 
 of Albany, is pleasantly situate J on rising ground, on the 
 west bank of the river. It was incorporated in 1800, and 
 now contains about 6,000 inhabitants, 1,000 dwelling 
 houses, a court-house and jail, this being a half-shire of 
 Orange county ; a theological seminary under the direc- 
 tion of the Associate E-efonned Presbyterian denomina- 
 tion ; an incorporated academy ; a high school, two fe- 
 male seminaries and a number of select schools, all in a 
 flourishing condition j two large public libaries ; eleven 
 churches of different denominations ; three banking houses, 
 fourteen hotels and taverns ; 150 stores of different kinds ; 
 nine store-houses ; five freighting establishments ; four 
 steamboats and two freight barges, running to and from 
 the citj^ of New-York, besides a number of sloops trad- 
 ing to different places on the Hudson river, and schooners 
 and other craft running to southern and eastern ports, al- 
 together transporting an immense amount of lumber, coal, 
 plaster, and agricultural and manufactured products ; two 
 good steamboats also, are attached to the ferry between 
 this place and Fishkill on the opposite side of the river, 
 which is here about one mile in width. The location of 
 Newburgh, in addition to its romantic beauty and healthi- 
 ness, is peculiarly favorable as a place of business, being 
 surrounded by a rich grazing and agricultural region, 
 celebrated for butter and live stock. The Delaware and 
 Hudson Railroad, the route of which is located and 
 partly graded, com.mences at the village of Newburgh, 
 and runs through the county of Orange into the state of 
 New- Jersey. It is intended to tap the coal beds of Penn- 
 sylvania, intersecting the New-York and Erie Railroad 
 at or near Goshen. 
 
AND ITS VICIIVITY. 61 
 
 Newburgh was for a period the head- quarters of Gen. 
 Washington, and at the close of the Revolutionary war, 
 the army was here disbanded, June 23, 1783. The cfele- 
 ebx-ated Neiohurgh Letters, addressed to the officers and 
 men of the army, were here dated, supposed to have been 
 written by the late Gen. John Armstrong. 
 
 It is proposed to erect a suitable column to the memory 
 of Washington, in front of the old stone house, in the 
 south part of this village, where his family resided ; it 
 is to be from 80 to 100 feet high, constructed of white 
 marble, or granite, at an estimated cost of $50,000. It 
 will be in plain sight from the water, commanding one of 
 the finest prospects on the Hudson. 
 
 Stages leave Newburgh for Bingharaton, 122 miles dis- 
 tant, where they connect with lines running north and 
 south, and with a line continuing west, through the 
 southern tier of counties, to Barcelona, on Lake Erie. 
 Stagk Eotjte from Newburgh to Barcelona. 
 
 MUes.\ Miles. 
 
 Montgomery, 13 Factoryville, 8 162 
 
 Bloomingburgh,. . . . 12 251 Athens, Pa 3 165 
 
 Wurtsboro,.r 5 SOIElmira, 20 185 
 
 MoNTicELLO, 10 40 Corning, 16 201 
 
 Bethel, 10 50 
 
 Delaware River, ... 10 60 
 
 Mount Pleasant, Pa. 20 80 
 
 New-Milford, 22 102 
 
 Great Bend, 4 106 
 
 BlNGHAMTON, 16 122 
 
 Union, 6 128 
 
 Nanlicoke, 9 137 
 
 OwEGo, 7 144 
 
 Smithboro, 10 154 
 
 Painted Post, 3 204 
 
 Bath, 18 222 
 
 Howard, 12 234 
 
 Hornellsville, 10 244 
 
 Angelica, 20 264 
 
 Franklinville, 25 289 
 
 Ellicottville,. ... 10 299 
 
 Seelysburgh, 15 314 
 
 Mayville, 35 349 
 
 Barcelona, 8 357 
 
 FisHKiLL Landing, on the east side of the river, di. 
 rectly opposite Newburgh, with which it is connected by 
 a steam ferry, is a thriving village containing about 900 
 inhabitants, and surrounded by delightful country resi- 
 dences. 
 
<52 HUDSOW RIVER. 
 
 Matteawan, an extensive and celebrated mannfac- 
 turing village, is situated on the Fishkill, a mile and a 
 half east of Fishkill Landing. 
 
 Glenham, 3 miles fi'om the landing, is also a cele- 
 brated manufacturing village, celebrated for its superior 
 woollen cloths. 
 
 The village of Fishkill, is pleasantly situated on a 
 plain, 5 miles east of Fishkill Landing, and 65 miles 
 north of the city of Nev^-York, on the great post road to 
 Albany. This road, from Peekskill to Fishkill, a dis- 
 tance of 19 miles, traverses the Highlands, and is re- 
 markable for its formidable hills and the vi^ild scenery of 
 this mountain route. As you approach Fishkill from the 
 south, the character of the scenery suddenly changes to 
 that of a fertile and cultivated farming district. 
 
 During the Revolutionary war, this village was for a 
 period the head-quarters of the American army ; the 
 church is still standing here, in which Enoch Crosby, the 
 spy of Revolutionary memory, was confined for a time : 
 his escape being admirably described in Cooper's ro- 
 mance of the " Spy," under the assumed name of Har- 
 9ey Birch. 
 
 New-Hamburgh, 6 miles north of Newburgh, is a 
 steamboat landing on the east side of the river, where 
 Wappinger's creek, an important mill stream, empties 
 into the Hudson, 
 
 Hampton" is another landing nearly opposite, being 
 connected with New-Hamburgh by a ferry. One or two 
 miles north is the village of Marlborough. 
 
 Barnegat, a few miles above on the east side of the 
 river, is celebrated for the manufacture of large quanti- 
 ties of lime. 
 
 Milton, 9 miles above Newburgh, and 4 miles below 
 Poughkeepsie, is a convenient steamboat landing ; the 
 village stands about half a mile back from the riven 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 63 
 
 PotTGttKEEPSiE, is handsomdy situated on the east side 
 of the Hudson, about equi-distant between the cities of 
 New-York and Albany, being 74 miles from the lormer, 
 and 71 from the latter, by water. It was incorporated 
 in ISOl, and now contains about 7,500 inhabitants, mostly 
 engaged in mercantile and manufacturing pursuits ; 1,000 
 dwelling houses, many of them tasty edifices ; a court- 
 house, and jail and county poor-house ; a splendid colle- 
 giate building ; the Dutchess Academy ; tw^o female 
 seminaries, besides several select schools ; a lyceum and 
 reading room ; tw^o public markets : one Presbyterian, 
 one Congregational, two Episcopal, one Baptist, two 
 Methodist, one Dutch Reformed, one Universalist, one 
 Roman Catholic, and one African Church, and two 
 Friends' meeting houses; three banking houses, a sav- 
 ing's institution, and an incorporated company called the 
 " Dutchess Whaling Company," who own one or two 
 ships engaged in the whale trade. Poughkecpsie contains 
 several well kept hotels and taverns ; 25 dry good stores, 
 50 groceries, 3 bookstores, besides a large number of 
 other different kinds of stores and shops ; also two brewe- 
 ries, one of which is very extensive, perhaps the largest 
 in the state, being capable of making 30,000 barrels of 
 beer annually, and an extensive pin manufacture. Here 
 are owned three steamboats, three freight barges, and 
 eight sloops, engaged in transporting produce and mer- 
 chandise to and from the New-York market, and other 
 places on the river. No place on the Hudson exceeds 
 this village for beauty of location ; it is surrounded by 
 one of the richest agricultural districts in the Union, and 
 may justly be ranked as the queen of villages in the Em- 
 pire State. 
 
 The Poughkeepsie Collegiate School, situated on Col- 
 lege Hill, about half a mile northeast of the compact 
 
64 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 part of the village, is unrivalled in its location, command- 
 ing an extensive prospect of the river and surrounding 
 country, which cannot fail to excite the admiration of 
 every lover of picturesque scenery; in addition to the 
 collegiate building, which is a splendid edifice, here has 
 recently heen erected an extensive gymnasium. This is a 
 well established and flourishing institution^ conducted en 
 philosophical principles. 
 
 Poughkeepsie, is a corruption of the Indian word 
 Apokecpsing , signifying safe harbor. It was early set- 
 tled, and in 1788, the state convention met here to ratify 
 the federal Constitution of the United States ; previous to 
 that date the state legislature frequently convened in this 
 village, which has long been considered a favorite place 
 of residence. 
 
 The Landing opposite Poughkeepsie, is in the town of 
 New-Paltz, by which name it is called. A ferry here 
 crosses the Hudson ; a short distance from the river is a 
 scattered settlement. Three or four miles above Pough- 
 keepsie, is a turn in the river called Crur,i-Elbow. 
 
 Hyde Park, 80 miles from New-York and 65 from 
 Albany, is pleasantly situated on the east side of the 
 Hudson. The principal settlement is about half a mile 
 from the landing. It contains 3 churches, 2 public houses, 
 several stores and shops, and 50 or 60 dwelling houses. 
 No section of the country between New-York and Alba- 
 ny, excels this part of Dutchess county for the beauty of 
 its country residences ; among which, the elegant man- 
 sion and grounds of the late Dr. David Hosack, were 
 conspicuous. This fine seat is now occupied by Mr. 
 Langdon. It appears to great advantage from the river, 
 standing on elevated ground, a short distance north of 
 the steamboat landing. At Staatsburgh, 5 miles north of 
 the village of Hyde Park, is situated the country resi^ 
 
AND ITS VICIIVITY. 65 
 
 (lence of the late Gov. Morgan Lewis. Esopus lleadows, 
 as they are called, 6 or 7 miles above Hyde Park, are ex- 
 tensive marshes, covered vv'itli water during high tide; 
 Ihey lie opposite the town of Esopus on the west side of 
 the river. Pelham is a small landing on the same side, 
 a little south of the mea Jows. 
 
 RoNBOUT, 89 miles nortli of the city of New- York, is 
 situated at the mouth of a large stream of the same name, 
 where there is a lighthouse built by the United States 
 government. This is a place of considerable trade, con- 
 taining an active population of about 1,500 inhabitants ; 
 many of whom are engaged in navigation, and others are 
 furnished employment by the Delaware and Hudson Ca- 
 nal, which terminates at Eddyville, 2 miles above Ron- 
 dout. The canal is 108 miles in length, extending in 
 connection with a railroad of 16 miles, to the coal 
 mines of Pennsylvania. From the mouth of Rondout 
 creek a number of steamboats, freight barges, and sloops 
 are regularly employed in carrying an immense quantity 
 of Lacka waxen coal, lumber, lime, and produce of diifer- 
 ent kinds. Stages run from this place to the village of 
 Kingston, and to the Landing opposite Rhinebeck, where 
 the line boats land and receive passengers several times 
 daily. 
 
 Kingston Landing, is situated on the w^est side of the 
 Hudson river, 90 miles north of the city of New- York ; 
 this landing was formerly called Columbus Point. A 
 steam ferry boat here plies across the river. 
 
 The village of Kingston is handsomely situated on a 
 plain, through which flov/s the Esopus creek, 3 miles 
 west of the landing on the river. It was incorporated in 
 1805, and now contains about 2,300 inhabitants, 300 dwel- 
 ling houses, 1 Reformed Dutch, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist and 
 1 Methodist church ; a court house and jail. 2 bankin» 
 
iSiQ HUDSON RIVER 
 
 houses, an incorporated academy, in a flourishing condi- 
 tion, and a female seminary ; also several well kept pub« 
 lie houses. Stages leave this place three times a week 
 for Delhi, Delaware county ; a tri- weekly line also leaves 
 for EUenville, and accommodation stages are in constant 
 attendance, and run to the several steamboats that land 
 and receive passengers at Rondout and Kingston Land- 
 ing. Kingston, anciently called Esopus, was early set- 
 tled by the Dutch, many of whose descendants now re- 
 side in this vicinity. 
 
 In April, 1777, the first convention of the Representa- 
 tives of the state of New- York met in the village of 
 Kingston, and formed the old Constitution of the state, and 
 on the 16th day of October following, it was taken and 
 burnt by the British army, under the command of Gen. 
 Vaughan, while marching to the relief of Gen. Bur- 
 goyne, who was obliged to surrender to the American 
 army on the following day at Schuylerville. Imme- 
 mediately after destroying the village, the British troops 
 precipitately retreated to their vessels lying in the Hud- 
 son river, and returned to the city of New-York. Some 
 of the ruins of the stone buildings were standing as late 
 as 1836, when the last of the walls were taken down, and 
 the Kingston banking house erected on the same spot. 
 
 Rhinebeck Landing, 90 miles from New-York and 
 55 from Albany, is situated on the east side of the river. 
 In this vicinity are located a number of beautiful coun- 
 try residences overlooking the Hudson. 
 
 The village of Rhinebeck is handsomely situated on a 
 plain, 2 miles east of the landing. It is incorporated, 
 and flow contains about 1,000 inhabitants. This vicinity 
 was early settled by Dutch families, many of whose de- 
 Bcendants still retain the habits and language of their 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 67 
 
 forefathers, and are a frugal and prosperous class of 
 citizens. 
 
 Barrytown, or Redhook Lower Landing, also on the 
 east side of the Hudson, is 97 miles from New- York, and 
 is surrounded by several delightful country residences, 
 The Catskill Mountains, in the west, at a distance of 
 some 12 or 15 rniles, may now be seen from the river 
 to great advantage ; and the Catskill Mountain House, 
 elevated nearly 3,000 feet above the Hudson, is distinctly 
 visible in clear weather. It stands near the precipitous 
 front of a rockj plateau, of a few acres in extent, called 
 Pine Orchard, from the scattered pines which formerly 
 grew out from the fissures of the rock. It commands a 
 vast and noble prospect, and is a most refreshing retreat 
 from the heats of summer. 
 
 TivoLi, or Upper Redhook Landing, 100 miles from 
 New-York and 45 miles from Albany, is a regular steam- 
 boat landing for both day and night boats. In this 
 vicinity are also a great number of beautiful country re- 
 sidences. The villages of Upper and Lower Redhook, 
 are situated 3 or 4 miles from the river, on the stage road. 
 In the Hudson, near Tivoli, are annually taken during 
 the months of May and June, large quantities of shad and 
 herring. A steam ferry-boat here plies across the river, 
 landing on the west side near the iron works at Sau- 
 gerties. 
 
 Saugerties, which is a large manufacturing village 
 by the chartered name of Ulster, situated on the Esopus 
 creek, near its entrance into the Hudson, where is a water- 
 fall affording an immense hydraulic power, much of 
 which is advantageously used in driving different kinds 
 of machinery. The village contains about 2,000 inhabi- 
 tants, 300 dwelling houses, 5 churches, and 3 or 4 public 
 houses. A steamboat and several sloops run from the 
 
68 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 mouth of the creek, although the usual steamboat land- 
 ing for the passage boats is at 
 
 Bristol, or Malden, 2 miles above Redhook, and 1^ 
 miles from Saugerties. A stage runs to and from the 
 landing to the village, on the arrival and departure of the 
 steam passage boats. 
 
 East and West Camp, a few miles above Bristol, 
 are old Dutch settlements on both sides of the river. 
 
 The village of Catskill, 111 miles from New- York 
 and 34 miles from Albany, is situated on both sides of 
 Catskill creek, near its junction with the Hudson; the prin- 
 cipal street being about half a mile back from the steam- 
 boat landing. It was incorporated in 1806, and now con- 
 tains about 2,800 inhabitants, 400 dwelling houses, a 
 court-house and jail, 2 banking houses, 5 churches, and 
 several public houses. Here is owned a steamboat and 
 4 barges, besides several sloops employed in transport- 
 ing produce and merchandise to and from the city of 
 New- York and different places on the river. A ferry 
 boat plies across the river from the landing at this place, 
 to Oak Hill, Columbia county. The Catskill and Cana- 
 joharie Railroad commences at this village, and is finish- 
 ed a distance of 26 miles. A daily line of stages leave 
 Catskill for Delhi, Delaware county, and two tri- weekly 
 lines for Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga lake, and Spra- 
 ker's Basin in Montgomery county; the latter uniting 
 with the Erie Canal and western railroads. A stage runs 
 from Catskill to Hudson, via Athens, twice daily, and a 
 stage runs semi- weekly to Prattsville, via Hunter and 
 Lexington. Stages also run daily during the warm 
 weather from the steamboat landing to the 
 
 Catskill Mountain House, at the Phie Orchard, 
 distant about 12 miles from Catskill. The following is 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 69 
 
 a glowing description of this well known^ and charming 
 eummer retreat : 
 
 " Pine Orchard, forming a part of the Catskill moun- 
 tain range, is situated about 12 miles from Catskill, 
 Greene county. It is elevated 3,000 feet above the tide 
 waters of the Hudson, which noble stream^ and the sur- 
 rounding country, it overlooks for a great distance, af- 
 fording a varied and extensive vievf of the greatest in- 
 terest. On the summit is erected a large and commodious 
 public house, called the Mountain House, for the accomo- 
 dation of visiters, who resort here in great numbers 
 during the summer months. In this vicinity are other 
 mountain peaks of still greater elevation, and waterfalls 
 of the most wild and romantic character, altogether form- 
 ing unrivalled attractions, which are well worthy of a 
 visit. From this lofty eminence all inequalities of sur- 
 face are overlooked. A seemingly endless succession of 
 woods and waters, farms and villages, towns and cities, 
 are spread out as upon a boundless map. Far in the east 
 rise the Taghkanic mountains, and the highlands of Con- 
 necticut and Massachusetts. To the left, and at a still 
 greater distance, the Green mountains of Vermont stretch 
 away to the north, and their blue summits and the blue 
 sky mingle together. The beautiful Hudson, studded 
 with islands, appears narrowed in the distance, with 
 steamboats almost constantly in sight,- while vessels of 
 every description spreading their white canvass to the 
 breeze, are moving rapidly over its surface, or idly loit- 
 ering in the calm. These may be traced to the distance 
 of nearly seventy miles vfith the naked eye ; and again 
 at times all below is enveloped in dark clouds and rolling 
 mist, which, driven about by the wind, is constantly as- 
 suming new, wild and fantastic forms. From Pine Orch- 
 ard, a ride or walk of a mile or two brings you to the 
 
70 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 KaaterskiU falls. Here the outlet of two small lakes 
 leaps down a perpendicular fall of 130 feet, then glides 
 away through a channel worn in the rock, to a second 
 fall of 80 feet. Below this it is lest in the dark ravine 
 through which it finds its way to the valley of the 
 Catskill." 
 
 The City of Hudson, situate on the east side of the 
 river, 116 miles from New- York, and 29 miles from Al- 
 bany, is a place of much trade and importance. It lies 
 near the head of ship navigation, and was formerly cele- 
 brated for being largely engaged in the West India trade, 
 and more recently in the whale fishery. Hudson v^as 
 first settled in 1783, by Thomas Jenkins and others, most 
 of whom were Quakers, from Massachusetts and Rhode 
 Island. The ciiy was chartered in 1785, and is divided 
 into 2 wards ; in 1840, it contained 5,670 inhabitants, 
 about 800 dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, with a 
 beautiful white marble front, surmounted by a domej 8 
 churches of different denominations, including 2 Friends' 
 meeting houses ; 2 banks, 2 public markets, and 5 hotels. 
 The Hudson Academy at this place, is an old chartered 
 institution, and the Hudson Female Seminary is a new 
 and flourishing boarding school for young ladies ; besides 
 which there are several schools, both male and female. 
 The Franklin Library Association is a young and popular 
 institution, to which is attatched a large library and phi- 
 losophical apparatus. The Hudson Lunatic Asylum is 
 situated on State- street, on the north side of the city, facing 
 the court house on the south. This useful and flourishing 
 institution, under the control of the proprietors, Drs. S. 
 and G. H. White, contains at present about 40 patients. 
 Since the opening of this institution, up to Jan. 1841, a pe- 
 riod of eleven years, 503 patients have been admitted, most 
 of whom have been permanently cured, or greatly bene- 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 71 
 
 \ 
 
 fited. The city is supplied by pure and wholesome 
 water by a chartered aqueduct company, who bring the 
 water in iron pipes from a spring about 2 miles distant. 
 The Hudson and B&rkshire Rail-road commences at this 
 place, and extends to West Stockbridge, Mass. a distance 
 of 34 miles; running within 7 miles of Lebanon Springs, 
 which are much resorted to during the summer months. 
 The New-York and Albany steamboats land and receive 
 passengers several times daily, during the season of navi- 
 gation, in addition to the passage and freight boats which 
 run to and from New-York direct, thus affording a speedy 
 communication between the cities of New-York and Bos- 
 ton, a total distance by this route of about 300 miles, 
 extending through an interesting country. 
 
 A steam ferry boat crosses the river from Hudson to 
 Athens, a chartered village on the west shore contain- 
 ing about 1,300 inhabitants. 
 
 Four Mile Point, 120 miles above New-York, is 
 considered the head of ship navigation on the Hud- 
 son. Kinderhook ci'eek here enters the river on the east 
 side, and near its mouth is situated the manufacturing 
 village of Columbiaville. 
 
 CoxsACKiE Landing, 8 miles above Hudson, is situa- 
 ted on the west side of the Hudson 22 miles below 
 the city of Albany. Here are three seperate land- 
 ings within the distance of a mile, altogether contain- 
 ing about 1,200 inhabitants, 150 dwelling houses, 1 
 Dutch Reformed, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist church ; 
 an academy, 4 public houses, 16 stores of different kinds 
 and 15 warehouses; 1 steam plaster mill and 1 furnace j 
 I^iip yard and 2 dry docks for building and repairing 
 vessels; 19 extensive brick yai'ds where are manufactured 
 yearly about 30 millions of bricks. This is also a conve- 
 
72 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 nient steamboat landing, at which steamboats touch seve- 
 ral times daily, during the season of navigation. 
 
 The village of Coxsackie, 1 mile west of the landing, 
 contains about 500 inhabitants, and is surrounded by fer- 
 tile lands, extending to the base of theHelderberg moun- 
 tains. 
 
 Stuyvesant, 4 miles further on the east side of the 
 river, is a flourishing place of business, from which 
 large quantities of produce are annually sent to the New- 
 York market, the country in the interior being justly 
 celebrated for its fertility. 
 
 A short distance north is the steamboat landing for the 
 above place, and for the village of Kinderhook situated 
 about 5 miles east of the river, and noted for the beauty 
 of its location. It is the birthplace of ex-President 
 Van Buren, and his present residence is a pleasant seat 
 about two miles south of the village. 
 
 New Baltimore, 4 miles above, on the west side of the 
 Hudson, and 14 miles from Albany, is a village of about 
 400 inhabitants. Here is a convenient steamboat land- 
 ing, where the passage boats usually land and receive 
 passengers. 
 
 CoEYMANs, on the west side of the river, 12 miles be- 
 low Albany, is the last landing the boats make on their 
 upward trips. The village contains about' 700 inhabi- 
 tants, and here are owned several sloops trading with 
 the New- York market. Barren Island, lying imme- 
 diately below the village of Coeymans, is on the south 
 bounds of the old colony of Rensselaerwyck, and was for- 
 tified and garrisoned by one of the early Patroons, in IQM. 
 All foreign traders were here obliged to come to, and 
 learn the terms on which the port of the colony might be 
 entered. It now presents a rocky and sterile appearance 
 being well adapted for the purposes for which it was ori- 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 73 
 
 ginally oecTipied, as it completely commands the channel 
 of the river. 
 
 Castleton, 4 miles above Coeymans and 8 miles from 
 Albany, is on the east side of the river. Here is forming 
 a bar in the channel of the river, which is very injurious 
 to navigation. 
 
 The Overslaugh, 3 miles below^ the city of Albany, 
 has heretofore formed the principal obstruction to the 
 free navigation of the Hudson on its tide waters. Here 
 were several bars or flats, with narrow channels, afford- 
 ing at low tides but a small depth of water — this obstruc- 
 tion, however, has of late been mostly removed by an 
 expenditure by the United States Government, the depth 
 of the water being materially increased, the channel 
 made straight, and the navigation much improved, 
 
 Gbeenbitsh, opposite the south part of the city of 
 Albany, with which it is connected by a steam ferry boat, 
 contains about 900 inhabitants. Immediately above may 
 be seen the new depot and buildings attached to the Bos- 
 ton Railroad. From th« depot at Greenbush to the city 
 of Troy, a distance of 6 miles, a branch railroad is now 
 in progress of construction, 
 
 ALBANY, the capital of the State, and one of the 
 oldest cities in the Union, is eligibly situated on the west 
 side oftheHuQson river, 145 miles north of the city of New- 
 York; 325 mites by railroad, east of Buffalo ; 200 west 
 -of Boston, and 250 south of Montreal. It was originally 
 called " Beaver Wyck" (i, e. Beaver Town,) and after- 
 ward '' Williamstadt." It received its present name in 
 1664, in honor of James, duke of York and Albany, af- 
 terwards James II., in whose reign the original city char- 
 ter was granted by Governor Dongan, July 22, 1686, and 
 the government vested in ''The Mayor, Aldermen and 
 Commonalty of the city of Albany," consisting of the 
 
 F 
 
 ^ 
 
74 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 Mayor, Recorder, ten Aldermen and ten Assistants. 
 The charter has been materially altered by recent enact- 
 ments of the Legislature ; the assistant aldermen are 
 merged in ten aldermen, but the corporate name is still 
 preserved. It is now divided into 10 vrards. In 1840, its 
 population was 33,721. 
 
 It is indebted for its prosperity to the enterprise of its 
 inhabitants, and the impulse given to its trade by the Erie 
 and Champlain canals, which unite about 9 miles to the 
 north, and enter the Hudson river at the north end of the 
 city. A basin has been formed in front of the city, pro- 
 tected from the river by a pier one mile and a quarter 
 in length, furnishing a safe harbor, for vessels and se- 
 curing them from injury by the ice, which in the spring 
 freshets, comes down the river in immense quantities, 
 sometimes causing great damage. The city is command- 
 ing in its situation, and appears to great advantage from 
 the river. There are three ravines running from east to 
 west, known as the Foxes Kill, the Rutten Kill, and the 
 Beaver Kill, on each side of which the land is high, be- 
 ing at an elevation of from 140 to 160 feet above, and 
 gradually ascending from the river. The view from 
 either of the heights is picturesque in the highest de- 
 gree. To the north may be seen the city of Troy and 
 the adjacent villages, and in the distance tite hills of Ver- 
 mont. To the east the beautiful extent of country lying 
 beyond the Hudson river, and to the south the Helder- 
 bergs, and Catskill mountains. The public buildings are 
 of the most beautiful and tasteful character. The Capi- 
 tol, occupied by the legislature and the state courts ; the 
 State Hall, just completed, for the accommodation of the 
 public offices; the City Hall, occupied for city and county 
 purposes, and by the United States Courts ; and the Al- 
 bany Academy, having 300 pupils, face the public 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 15 
 
 square at the head of State-street. This square is form- 
 ed by the Capitol and Academy Parks, which are enclosed 
 with substantial iron fences, erected on stone bases, and 
 are laid out with walks lined with ornamental trees of 
 the choicest species. A more delightful spot in the sum- 
 mer, is not to be found in any inland city in the Union. 
 A few rods south of the square, on Eagle-street, is the 
 County Jail and the Medical College. This College was 
 incorporated in 1839, and occupies a building granted to 
 it by the corporation of the city, admirably adapted for its 
 purposes. The College already possesses one of the 
 most valuable museums in the country, which has recent- 
 ly been greatly enlarged and enriched, by specimens im- 
 ported direct from Germany and France. In addition to 
 the Academy spoken of, there is a Female Academy, 
 which has annually from 300 to 350 pupils. This insti- 
 tution ranks high, and occupies a handsome and con- 
 venient edifice in North Pearl-street. Connected with 
 it is the Albany Library, numbering 9,000 volumes. 
 The Albany Exchange, situated at the foot of State- 
 street, is a large and commodious building, constructed of 
 granite. It is occupied for stores, offices of professional 
 men, and the post-office. The Young Men's Association, 
 established for "Mutual Improvement," also occupies 
 rooms in this buildingj it was the pioneer institution of 
 its kind in this slate, and embraces all ranks and profes- 
 sions, now numbering 1,500 members. It has an exten- 
 sive reading room, supplied with the leading newspapers 
 of this country and Englandj also a room, furnished with 
 the most popular and standard periodicals and reviews, 
 native and foreign; an excellent library of about 3,200 
 volumes, and a lecture room capable of seating 300 per- 
 sons, in which two lectures a week are delivered, from 
 the first of December to the first of March. Strangers 
 
76 HUDSOIf RIVER 
 
 have free access to all except the lecture room and library. 
 There are 4 Presbyterian churches, 1 Associate do., 3 
 Dutch Reformed^ 1 Unitarian, 4 Methodist Episcopal, 1 
 African do., 3 Baptist, 1 colored do., 2 Lutheran, 3 
 Episcopalian, 1 Universalist, 3 Roman Catholic, 1 Inde- 
 pendent church, 1 Mission House, 2 Jewish Synagogues, 
 1 Bethel and 1 Friends' Meeting House. 
 
 The old State Hall, recently occupied for state offi- 
 ces, is converted into a museum for the reception of the 
 geological cabinet formed under the direction of the 
 State geological surveyors. The New- York State Agri- 
 cultural Society, also here hold their meetings in a room 
 reserved for that purpose. The other public institutions 
 whose meetings are held at Albany, are the New- York 
 State Temperance Society, and the State Medical Society. 
 There are also, in the city, in addition to those men- 
 tioned, various benevolent, religious and scientific institu- 
 tions ; among them the Albany Institute, with a valuable 
 library and extensive museum, occupying a room in the 
 Albany Academy. 
 
 The principal hotels in Albany, are, the American Ho- 
 tel, 100 State-street J City Hotel, 23 Broadway; Clin- 
 ton Hotel, 19 South Pearl-street; Columbian Hotel, 161 
 Market-street; Congress Hall, Park Place, near the 
 Capitol; Delavan Temperance House, 77 Broadway; 
 Eagle Tavern, 105 Market- street; Eastern Raih'oad Ho- 
 tel, 155 and 157 Market-street; Fort Orange Hotel, 153 
 Market- street; Franklin House, 136 and 13S State-street; 
 Mansion House, 24 Broadway; Montgomery Hall, 56 
 Market-street; Plough Hotel, 126 State-street; Railroad 
 Hotel, Stanwix Hall, corner of Broadway and Maiden 
 Lane; Railroad House, 266 Market-street; United States 
 House, 117 Market- street; United States Hotel, 91 Wash- 
 ington-street; Washington Hall, 29 South Pearl-street. 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. . 77 
 
 The trade, commerce and manufactures of Albany are 
 very considerable j in the year 1842, 27 steamboats and 
 51 tow boats plied regularly between Albany and New- 
 York and the intermediate places on the Hudson river. 
 The Mohawk and Hudson Railroad, among the first 
 roads built in the country, and connected with the Utica 
 and Schenectady and Saratoga and Schenectady Rail- 
 roads, terminates at Albany. An arrangement is about 
 to be made by which the inclined planes, which form so 
 great an objection to this road^ are to be dispensed with. 
 The Albany and West Stockbridge Railroad connects the 
 Western Railroad at the state line between Massachu- 
 setts and New- York, forming a continuous line of rail- 
 roads from Albany to Boston. In addition to the rail- 
 road and steamboat lines, there are eighteen lines of 
 stages running from Albany to different places. It is es- 
 timated that 1,100 passengers arrive and depart daily. 
 
 The termination of the canals and railroads at Albany, 
 renders it the centre of trade and trans-shipment, and has 
 opened to the enterprise of her merchants and artisans 
 an extent of country unsurpassed in its wealth and re- 
 sources. 
 
 Distances from Albany to Boston, by Railroad : 
 
 To West Stockbridge 38 Miles. 
 
 State Line to Pittsfield, Western R.R.) 11 49 " 
 Springfield, do. > 53 102 '' 
 
 Worcester, do. ) 54 156 '' 
 
 Boston and Worcester Railroad, 44 200 " 
 
 Distances from Albany to the City of Wash- 
 ington, by Steamboat and Railroad Route: 
 
 New- York, by steamboat, 145 Miles. 
 
 Philadelphia, 6?/ raiZ-road, 86 231 '' 
 
 Baltimore, " 96 327 '' 
 
 Washington, " 38 365 " 
 

 16 
 
 Miles 
 
 77 
 
 93 
 
 
 53 
 
 146 
 
 
 26 
 
 172 
 
 
 79 
 
 251 
 
 
 43 
 
 294 
 
 
 78 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 Distances from Albany to Buffalo, by Railroad; 
 
 Mohawk and Hudson Railroad, 
 Utica and Schenectady " 
 Syracuse and Ulica, '^ 
 
 Auburn and Syracuse, " 
 Auburn and Rochester, " 
 
 Tonawanda, via Batavia, 
 
 Attica and Buffalo, 31325 " 
 
 Distances from Albany to Montreal, via Sara- 
 toga Springs and Lake Champlain : 
 
 To Troy, by stage, 
 
 Ballston Spa, by rail-road, 24 
 
 Saratoga Springs, *' 7 
 
 Whitehall, by stage, 39 
 
 St. John's, Canada, steamboat, 150 226 
 
 La Prairie, by rail-road, 15 241 
 
 Montreal, by steamboat, 9 250 
 
 6 Miles 
 
 30 
 
 li 
 
 37 
 
 n 
 
 76 
 
 (( 
 
 We copy the foliovs^ing extract relating to the early 
 history of Albany: 
 
 '' The younger race of fashionables and semi-fashiona- 
 bles know Albany, or affect to knoAv it, merely as a big 
 city-looking place, full of taverns and hotels, where they 
 land from the steamboat, on their way to Saratoga, Ni- 
 agara or Quebec. Another set of less locomotive good 
 folks, especially in New- York and Philadelphia, have no 
 notions about it, but those derived from the old tradition, 
 ary jokes upon its aocient Schepens and Schoutens, its 
 burly Burgomasters, ' its lofty spires glittering with tin 
 and hospitable boards smoking with sturgeon.' 
 
 " But in honest truth, there are few cities of the size 
 any where, which can exhibit a greater or a more agree- 
 able variety of society and manners. In Albany may be 
 lound talent and learning, accomplishment and beauty. 
 The towns of Europe of the same size and relative im 
 portance, can in this respect bear no sort of comparison 
 with it. Then, too, its situation, the prospect from its 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 79 
 
 higher grounds and streets abound in scenes meet for 
 romantic fiction. Albany is rich also in more sober, but 
 equally interesting recollections of our national history. 
 There, (to use the once familiar personification in which 
 Indian oratory delighted to speak of the French and Eng- 
 lish governments,) Corlaer and Ononthio were wont to 
 meet and plant the tree of peace, or else extinguish their 
 council fire and part in wrath. There, about the middle 
 of the last century, (1751,) the governors of the several 
 provinces met the chiefs of the Six Nations^ and the am- 
 bassadors of the Catawbas and other southern tribes, 
 and buried the hatchet between the whole Indian race on 
 this, continent, and planted the tree of peace in Fort 
 Orange.* There, three years after, was held that first 
 General Congress, in which the earliest arrangements for 
 national defence were made, and where, by one of those 
 remarkable coincidences with which the hand of Provi- 
 dence has legibly inscribed the evidence of its own work- 
 ings in every part of our national history, upon the fourth 
 of July, 1754^ Benjamin Franklin, and other patriots des- 
 tined to the highest honors of their country, signed the 
 first plan of American Union, and proclaimed to the 
 colonies that they were one people, fit to govern and able 
 to protect themselves. Why need I speak of the events 
 of the Revolution? At Albany, in the most eventful 
 periods of that struggle, Montgomery, and Schuyler, and 
 Gates, and the elder Clinton, in turns planned or directed 
 the operations of war, while the civil wisdom and moral 
 courage of Jay, gave new confidence to public spirit, and 
 fresh vigor to our counsels." 
 
 *On the spot where now stands the house formerly occupied by the 
 venerable Simeon Pe Witt, for many years Surveyor-General of the 
 State, and at present known as the Fort Orange Hotel, situated in 
 Market-street, near Lydius-street. 
 
80 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 ALBANY, NINETY YEARS SINCE. 
 
 The foDowing description of Albany, is taken from 
 Mrs. Grant's interesting '' Memoirs of an American 
 Lady." 
 
 ''The city of Albany was stretched along the banks 
 of the Hudson 5 one very wide and long street lay paral- 
 lel to the river, the intermediate space between it and the 
 shore being occupied by gardens. A small, but steep hill 
 rose above the centre of the town, on which stood a fort, 
 intended (but very ill adapted,) for the defence of the 
 place, and of the neghboring country. From the foot of 
 this hill, another street was built, [now State-street,] 
 sloping pretty rapidly down till it joined the one before 
 mentioned that ran along the river. This street was still 
 wider than the other ; it was only paved on each side, 
 the middle being occupied by public edifices. These con- 
 sisted of a market place, or guard-house, a town hall, 
 and the English and Dutch churches. The English 
 church stood at the upper end of the street; the Dutch 
 church was situated at the bottom of the descent where 
 the street terminated. The town in proportion to its 
 population, occupied a great space of ground. This city^ 
 in short, was a kind of semi-rural establishment; every 
 house had its garden, a well, and a little green behind, — 
 before every door a tree was planted, rendered interest- 
 ing by being coeval with some beloved member of the 
 family." 
 
 The City of Troy, 151 miles north of New- York, is 
 pleasantly situated on the east bank of the Hudson river, at 
 the head of tide water and steamboat navigation, 6 miles 
 above Albany. Its existence as a village, may be dated 
 from 1790. It was incorporated as a city in 1816, when 
 it contained nearly 5,000 inhabitants ; it has recently 
 
AND ITS VICINITY. 81 
 
 been made a port of entrj, and contained in 1840, 19^334 
 inhabitants, who are mostly engaged in commerce, naviga- 
 tion and manufactures. Since the completion of the Erie 
 and Champlain canals in 1825, v/hich, opposite this place, 
 at the village of West Troy, unite the waters of the 
 lakes with those of the Hudson, Troy has rapidly in- 
 creased in wealth and population. Here are a fine court- 
 house, built of marble, in the Grecian Doric order j a 
 jail constructed of brick ; a county poor-house, to which 
 a farm containing about 200 acres is attached ; the Rens- 
 selaer Institute, founded by the late Hon. Stephen Van 
 Rensselaer, where the sciences are practically taught ; 
 the Troy Female Seminary, a flourishing chartered insti- 
 tution ; the Troy Academy, also an excellent classical and 
 chartered institution for the education of boys, besides 
 several select schools for males and females. Troy con- 
 tains two new, finely modelled and expensive market 
 buildings ; seven Presbyterian churches, three Episcopal, 
 two Baptist, two Methodist, one Catholic, one TJniver- 
 saiist, one Friend's meeting house and an African church; 
 six banks, with an aggregate capital of $1,568,000 ; two 
 insurance companies ,* onelyceum of natural history, with 
 a choice scientific library, and an extensive collection of 
 minerals and collections in various branches of natural 
 history ; a Young Men's Association for mutual improve- 
 ment, with a large library and extensive reading room. 
 The public houses in Troy are numerous, and several 
 of them celebrated for being well regulated establish- 
 ments : The principal hotels are the American Hotel, 
 Fourth, corner of Elbow-street j Mansion House, 4 
 Washington- square • Mechanic's Hall, 140 River-street ; 
 National Temperance House, River, corner of Ferry- 
 street ; Northern Hotel, 394 River-street ; Troy House, 
 River, corner of First-street ,• Washington Hall, 331 
 River-street ; York House, 252 River-street. 
 
82 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 Here are owned about 60 masted vessels, four large 
 passage steamboats of the first class, two smaller steam 
 passage boats and five steam tow boats with 22 barges, 
 which ply between Troy and New- York, transporting 
 annually an immense amount of produce and merchan- 
 dise. Four lines of passage and freight boats run on the 
 Champlain canal from Troy : a line of packet schooners run 
 from this place to Boston, and other eastern ports ; a line 
 of canal packets to Whitehall, and lines of daily stages 
 run to Whitehall, and Bennington, Vt., and to Brattleboro, 
 Vt., and Boston. The water power at Troy is immense, 
 and a large portion of it still unoccupied. Within the 
 limits of the city and about a mile east of the Hudson, a 
 tunnel has been excavated by Mr. Benj. Marshall, ex- 
 tending from the Poestenkill, a distance of about 800 feet, 
 and gives a fall of 180 feet. Several large mills and fac- 
 tories to be supplied with water from this fall, are now 
 in the progress of erection. Near the northei-n boundary 
 of the city a dam has been built across the Hudson, by 
 the state, which here makes a fall of 11| feet and creates 
 an incalculable amount of hydraulic power. This place 
 is abundantly supplied with wholesome water, brought 
 from the Piscawin creek, through large iron pipes with 
 hydrants at the corners of the streets. 
 
 The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad commences at 
 this place, crossing the Hudson river by a substantial 
 bridge 1,650 feet in length, to Green island ; thence it 
 continues north across several branches of the Mohawk 
 river to Waterford ; following the valley of the Hudson 
 until it reaches Mechanicsville, where it diverges to the 
 west and continues to the village of Ballston Spa, a dis- 
 tance of 24 miles, and unites with the Saratoga and Sche- 
 nectady Railroad. The Schenectady and Troy Railroad 
 21 miles in length, was completed in 1842 ; it communi* 
 
AND ITS vrciNil-Y. 83 
 
 cates with the western roads at Schenectady, and will be 
 extended to Greenbush, on the east side of the Hudson 
 river, opposite Albany ; there to connect with the Alba- 
 ny and West Stockbridge railroad, which, when completed 
 will make a direct railroad communication from Troy to 
 Boston, and furnish a continuous line of railroads from 
 Boston to Buffalo. There is also a macadamised road 
 already finished from Troy to Bennington, Vt., a distance 
 of about 26 miles. Troy is connected with the village of 
 West Troy, in Albany Co., which has risen into impor- 
 tance within a few years, by means of a commodious 
 bridge and two ferries crossing the Hudson river. 
 
 The city of Troj'" has long been celebrated for its beau- 
 ty and healthiness. The streets are laid out at right an- 
 gles, are generally wide, remarkable for their cleanliness, 
 and planted with beautiful, and in the hot season, most 
 grateful forest and shade trees. From Mounts Ida on the 
 east and Olympus on the north, an extensive and charm- 
 ing prospect is presented, embracing a view of the valley 
 of the Hudson for miles, the city of Albany, the villages 
 of West Troy, Lansingburgh, Waterford and Cohoes, 
 and the Cohoes Falls ; a landscape presenting more beauty 
 and a greater variety of scenery, can hardly be imagined. 
 From the elevations just mentioned, the eye rests at once, 
 as on a map spread out before it, on city and village teem- 
 ing with life and activity — the broad Hudson rolling on 
 in majesty to the ocean, and bearing on its bosom fleets 
 of boats and vessels — a long extent of the Erie canal, it- 
 self no common stream, floating to market the products 
 of the west — railroads, over which are passing with light- 
 ning speed, multitudes in pursuit of business or pleasure 
 — on woodlands and cultivated fields harmoniously blend- 
 ed — and on a western horizon of undulating highlands, 
 which towards the south, blend with the famed CatskiU 
 mountains, lifting their giant heads to the clouds. 
 
84 HUDSON RIVER 
 
 West Troy, situated on the west bank of the Hudson 
 river, 6 miles above the city of Albany, is a place of 
 growing importance. It was incorporated as a village in 
 1836, and now contains about 5,000 inhabitants, 800 
 dwelling houses, 8 churches, 8 public houses, a large 
 number of stores, and mechanics' shops. The Erie Ca- 
 nal, which passes through the centre of the village, com- 
 municates with the Hudson, by two commodious side- 
 cuts. It is a convenient depot for vast quantities of pro" 
 duce, lumber, and merchandise ; being on the Junc- 
 tion Canal, and at the head of sloop navigation. The 
 southern mouth of the Mohawk here unites with the 
 Hudson. 
 
 The Watervliet Arsenal, situated in West Troy, near 
 the river, was established by the United States govern- 
 ment in 1813. This is the largest arsenal of construction 
 in the Union, having great facilities for the manufacture 
 and transportation of warlike implements, and is well 
 worthy of a visit. The grounds attached to the arsenal, 
 consist of about 100 acres, enclosed in front by an iron 
 fence, and in the rear by a stone wall. Here are located 33 
 buildings, comprising storehouses for small arms, gun 
 sheds for cannon carriageSj timber sheds, magazines, 
 saw-mill, paint, carriage, machine, casting and black- 
 smith shops ; offices, barracks, hospitals and officers' 
 quarters. About 200 officers, soldiers and hired work- 
 men are constantly employed at this post, which number 
 could be greatly increased if found necessary. Here are 
 now manufactured munitions of war, amounting to an 
 estimated value of $100, 000 annually. The total value 
 on hand, January, 1841, amounted to $1,662,320. 
 
 Lansingbttrgh, 3 miles above Troy on the east side 
 of the Hudson, is one of the oldest villages in the state, 
 being incorporated as early as 1787 ; it now contains 
 
AKD ITS VlClSi*^. 85 
 
 about 3,000 inhabitants. During the Revolutionary war 
 it was a place of considerable importance. It has since 
 increased but slowly, owing to obstructions in the chan- 
 nel of the Hudson, and the consequent growth of Troy. 
 Waterford, situated 1 mile above Lansingburgh, on 
 the opposite side of the river, and 155 miles north of the 
 city of New- York, is at the very head of sloop naviga- 
 tion on the Hudson, with which the northern mouth of 
 the Mohawk here unites. Navigation is kept up to this 
 place by means of a dam and sloop lock at the upper part 
 of the city of Troy. Waterford was incorporated in 1805, 
 and now contains a population of about 1,400 inhabitants. 
 The village of Cohoes two miles west of Waterford, 
 is situated on the southwest bank of the Mohawk river 
 a short distance below the Cohoes Falls and near the 
 junction of the Erie and Champlain canals. Here is af- 
 forded by the Mohawk, an immense amount of hydrau- 
 lic power. If found necessary the whole volume of wa- 
 ter in the river can be used for propelling machinery to 
 almost any extent, having a total fall of about 140 feet. 
 Here are several extensive manufacturing establishments ; 
 Q churches; 1 hotel ; 12 stores, and a population of 2,000 
 inhabitants, mostly employed in the above manufactories. 
 Stages pass through this village several times daily, run- 
 ning between Albany and Waterford, a distance of 10 miles. 
 Cohoes Falls, situated in the immediate vicinity of 
 Cohoes village, is an object of great attraction. It is much 
 resorted to during the summer months, by visitors from 
 all parts of the Union. The water of the Mohawk here 
 has a perpendicular fall of 70 feet, besides a rapid de- 
 scent above and below. The banks of the river present 
 a grand and romantic appearance, varying in almost per- 
 pendicular heighth of from 50 to 120 feet, for the distance 
 of half a mile below the falls, where a substantial bridge, 
 about 800 feet long, spans the stream. 
 
5e 
 
 STEAMBOATS. 
 
 HUDSON RIVER STEAMBOATS. 
 
 The following list embraces all the Passage Boats built and running 
 on the Hudson River, between New- York, Albany and Troy, since their 
 first introduction by Robert Fulton, in the fall of 1807. 
 
 Built, 
 
 Name. 
 
 Tons 
 
 Commanders. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 1807 
 
 Clermont, - - - 
 
 
 James Winan.s, 
 
 Name changed. 
 
 1808 
 
 North River, - - 
 
 160 
 
 Samuel Wiswall, - - 
 
 Broken up. 
 
 1809 
 
 Car of Neptune, - 
 
 295 
 
 A. H Roorabach, - - 
 
 Broken up. 
 
 1811 
 
 Hope, 
 
 -280 
 
 E. S. Bunker, - - - 
 
 Broken up. 
 
 1811 
 
 Perseverance, - - 
 
 280 
 
 J Sherman, - . - - 
 
 Hroken up. 
 
 1811 
 
 Paragon, - 
 
 331 
 
 Andrew Bartholomew, 
 
 Sunk, 1825. 
 
 1813 
 
 Richmond, - - - 
 
 370 
 
 Joab Center, - - - 
 
 Broken up. 
 
 1815 
 
 Oiive Branch, - - 
 
 265 
 
 James Moore, - - 
 
 Broken up. 
 
 1816 
 
 Ch. Livingston, - - 
 
 494 
 
 S. Wiswall & J. Center, 
 
 Coal barge. 
 
 1823 
 
 James Kent. - - 
 
 346 
 
 Thomas Wiswall, - - 
 
 Coal barge. 
 
 1824 
 
 Hudson, . - - - 
 
 170 
 
 M. Bartholomew, - - 
 
 Broken up. 
 
 1825 
 
 Sandusky, - - - 
 
 2S9 
 
 James Penoyer, - - - 
 
 Tow boat. 
 
 1825 
 
 Constittition,* - - 
 
 276 
 
 Wm. J. Wiswall, - - 
 
 Now Indiana. 
 
 1825 
 
 Constellation, - - 
 
 276 
 
 Robert G. Cruttenden. 
 
 Tow barge. 
 
 1825 
 
 Ch. Jus. Marshall,! 
 
 300 
 
 Richard W. Sherman, 
 
 I.ostinL.l. S'd. 
 
 1825 
 
 Saratoga, - - - - 
 
 250 
 
 James Benson, - - - 
 
 Tow barse. 
 
 1826 
 
 Sun,J 
 
 ?80 
 
 H. Drake, 
 
 Burnt, 1831. 
 
 1826 
 
 New-Philadelphia, 
 
 300 
 
 (Jeorge E Seymotir, - 
 
 Delaware river. 
 
 1827 
 
 Albany, . . . - 
 
 39S 
 
 J. G. Jenkins &R. Macy 
 
 Runs to Troy. 
 
 1827 
 
 Independence, - - 
 
 368 
 
 Wm. J. Wiswall, - - 
 
 Pliila. route. 
 
 1827 
 
 North America, - 
 
 497 
 
 Gideon Lathrop, - - 
 
 Des.byice,1839 
 
 1827 
 
 Victory, - . . - 
 
 290 
 
 Sanford Cobb, - - - 
 
 From Rondout. 
 
 1828 
 
 De Witt Clinton, - 
 
 571 
 
 J. Sherman &S. R. Roe, 
 
 Eng. in Knick. 
 
 1829 
 
 Ohio,§ - - - - 
 
 412 
 
 M. Bartholomew, • - 
 
 Tow barge. 
 
 1830 
 
 Novelty, - - 
 
 477 
 
 Daniel Peck, - - 
 
 From Rondout. 
 
 1832 
 
 Champlain, - - - 
 
 471 
 
 Adolphus G or ham. 
 
 Tow barge. 
 
 1832 
 
 Erie,l - - . . 
 
 471 
 
 James Benson, - - - 
 
 Tow barge. 
 
 1833 
 
 Helen, - - - . 
 
 
 Henry Burden, - - - 
 
 Destroyed, 1834 
 
 1835 
 
 Robert L. Stevens, 
 
 298 
 
 Joseph P. Dean, - 
 
 To Piennont. 
 
 1836 
 
 Rochester, - - - 
 
 491 
 
 A. Houghton, - - - 
 
 Runs to Albany 
 
 1836 
 
 Swallow, - - . 
 
 426 
 
 Alex. McLean. - - - 
 
 Runs to Troy. 
 
 1837 
 
 Urica, - - - - 
 
 340 
 
 A. H. Shultz, ■ - - - 
 
 Runs to Hudson 
 
 1838 
 
 Diamond, - - 
 
 398 
 
 A. Flower, - - - 
 
 Laid up. 
 
 1839 
 
 Balloon, - - - - 
 
 204 
 
 David Hifchcock, - - 
 
 F,aid up. 
 
 1839 
 
 North America, - 
 
 494 
 
 R. G. Cruttenden, - - 
 
 Runs to A Ibany 
 
 1840 
 
 South America, - 
 
 638 
 
 M H. Tniesdell, - - 
 
 Runs to Albany 
 
 1840 
 
 Ti-oy, 
 
 724 
 
 Adolphus Gorham, - - 
 
 Runs to Troy. 
 
 1841 
 
 Columbia, - - - 
 
 391 
 
 T. P. Newbury, - - 
 
 Runs to Albany 
 
 1841 
 
 Rainbow, - - - 
 
 230 
 
 Capt. Fury, - - . . 
 
 Delaware river. 
 
 1842 1 Curtis Peck, - - 
 
 
 Wm. Peck, - - - - 
 
 Runs to Albany 
 
 1843 Empire, - - - - 
 
 936 
 
 Stephen R. Roe, - - 
 
 Runs to Troy. ' 
 
 1843 
 
 Knickerbocker, - 
 
 858 
 
 A. P. St. John, - - - 
 
 Runs to Albany 
 
 Exploded her boilers in 1825, killing 3 persons, 
 t Exploded her boiler in 1830, killing 11 persons. 
 t Built to run as a day boat between New- York and Albany. 
 § Exploded her chimney or flue in 1832, killing 5 persons. 
 I Exploded her chimney or flue in 1838, slightly injuring 1 person. 
 
steamboats. 87 
 
 Passenger Barges. 
 
 In 1826, the steamboat Commerce, Capt. George E. 
 Seymour, towed the passenger barge Lady Clinton, and the 
 steamboat Swiftsure, Capt. Cowden, towed the passen- 
 ger barge Lady Van Rensselaer. 
 
 4. 
 
 li 
 
 17 
 
 u 
 
 5. 
 
 U 
 
 20 
 
 C( 
 
 H- 
 
 (( 
 
 30 
 
 i; 
 
 7. 
 
 (C 
 
 36 
 
 cc 
 
 Copy of an Advertisement taken from, the Albany Ga- 
 zette, dated September, 1807. 
 *'The North River Steamboat, will leave Pauler's 
 Hook Ferry [now Jersey City,] on Friday the 4th of Sep- 
 tember, at 9 in the morning, and arrive at Albany on Sa- 
 turday, at 9 in the afternoon. Provisions, good berths 
 and accommodations are provided. 
 
 *' The charge to each passenger is as follows : 
 To Newburgh, dols. 3, time, 14 hours. 
 
 " Poughkeepsie, 
 " Esopus, 
 '' Hudson, 
 " Albany, 
 
 '* For places, apply toWm. Vandervoort, No. 48 Court- 
 landt-street, on the corner of Greenwich-street. 
 '' Sept. 2, 1807." 
 
 Extract from theN. Y. Evening Post, dated Oct. 2, 1807. 
 ''Mr. Fulton's new-invented steamboat, which is fitted 
 up in a neat style for passengers, and is intended to run 
 from New-York to Albany as a Packet, left here this 
 morning with ninety passengers against a strong head 
 wind. Notwithstanding which, it was judged she moved 
 through the water at the rate of six miles an hour.". 
 
 Extract from the Albany Gazette, dated Oct. 5, 1807^ 
 
 " Friday, Oct 2, 1807, the steamboat [Clermont,] left 
 
 New-York at 10 o'clock A. M. against a stormy tide, 
 
 very rough water, and a violent gale from the north. She 
 
88 
 
 STEAMBOATS. 
 
 made a headway beyond the most sanguine expectations, 
 and without being rocked by the waves. 
 
 " Arrived at Albany Oct. 4, at 10 o'clock P. M. being 
 detained by being obliged to come to anchor, owing to a 
 gale, and having one of her paddle wheels tore away by 
 running foul of a sloop," 
 
 Note. — It is stated on the authority of Capt. E. S. 
 Bunker, that the Clermont, or experiment boat, as 
 sometimes called, the first steamboat constructed under 
 the direction and superintendence of Robert Fulton in 
 1807, was 100 feet long, 12 feet wdde, and 7 feet deep. 
 In 1808, she was lengthened to 150 feet, widened to 18 
 feet, and had her name changed to North River. The 
 engine was constructed in England, by Watt & Bolton, 
 and brought to New-York in Dec. 1306, by Mr. Fulton, 
 The hull of the boat was constructed by David Brown, 
 an eminent ship builder in New-York, In August 1807, 
 the boat was propelled by steam from the East River to 
 the Jersey shore, and on the 2d of October following she 
 started on her first trip to Albany. 
 
 THE CLERMONT. 
 
90 TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 
 
 a distance of 72 miles from Albany. To St. John's, Cana- 
 da, is a further distance of 157 miles, through Lake 
 Champlain by steamboat. A railroad 15 miles long 
 extends from St. John's to La Prairie on the St. Law- 
 rencej and thence a steamboat runs to Monireal, a further 
 distance of 9 miles. 
 
 In going by the first route, through Saratoga Springs, 
 the traveller has a choice of passing direct to Whitehall 
 through Sandy Hill, or diverging to Glen's Falls, and 
 thence to CaldM^ell, situated at the head of Lake George, 
 or Horicon, v^here will be found a favorite public 
 house. Passengers are then carried over the above 
 charming piece of vt^ater in a steamboat, to the foot of 
 the lake, 36 miles; thence by stage, 4 miles further, to 
 the landing at Fort Ticonderoga on Lake Charaplainy 
 where is delightfully situated a well kept public house. 
 This is by far the most romantic and picturesque route, 
 affording the traveller an opportunity to visit many points 
 of great interest^ connected with stirring events, recorded 
 in the history of the old French and Revolutionary wars. 
 
 The route by railroad and canal packets, is considered 
 the most expeditious and pleasant, as r. gards comfort,- 
 passing through the villages of Waterford, Mechanics- 
 ville and Stillwater, (by Bemus' Heights, and battle- 
 ground, where Burgoyne surrendered to the American 
 army under Gen. Gates, Oct. 17, 1777,) Schuylerville, 
 Fort Miller, Fort Edward and Fort Ann, to the village of 
 Whitehall ; being most of the way in sight of the beau- 
 tiful Hudson, skirted by scenery of the most enchanting 
 character. 
 
 At Mechanicsville, 12 miles north of the city of 
 Troy, is the place where the cars running on the Rens- 
 selaer and Saratoga Railroad unite with passenger boats 
 plying to Whitehall, during the season of navigation. 
 
TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 91 
 
 The village of Stillwater, is an old and quiet settle- 
 ment, 4 miles further north. It was incorporated in 
 1816.J and now contains 400 or 500 inhabitants. In the 
 north part of this town, is situated the battle ground 
 where Gen. Burgoj^ne was defeated by the American army 
 under General Gates in 1777. 
 
 THE CAPTURE OF BURGOYNE. 
 
 The place at which we have now arrived recalls 
 one of the most important events of the Revolutionary 
 war, and a brief notice of the principal incidents which 
 preceded and accompanied the surrender of Gen. Burgoyne 
 and his army, may not be unacceptable to the tourist 
 whom we have undertaken to guide. 
 
 The army of Burgoyne was probably the best equipped 
 and most effective force brought into the field by the 
 enemy for a specific object, during the whole contest; and 
 its fate was mainly decided by two battles fought on 
 very nearly the same ground, one on the 19th Septem- 
 ber, and the other on the 7tli of October, 1777. The 
 battle ground was on B emus' Heights, about two miles 
 from, the Hudson river, in the town of Stillwater. 
 
 The battle of Sept. 19th, was brought on accidentally 
 rather than by design, originating in a skirmish between 
 two advanced parties in a cleared field surrounded by the 
 primitive forest, and known as Freeman's Farm. A 
 small house in this clearing was occupied by a picket- 
 guard of the British army, which lay to the north. A 
 small party, detached from Col. Morgan's Rifle Corps, as 
 the American army was advancing toward the enemy, 
 fell in with the party posted in the house, attacked and 
 drove them from it, and in pursuing them came unex- 
 pectedly upon the main body of the enemy, by whom a 
 part of their number were captured, and the rest dis- 
 
^ TOUR TO THE SPRIIYGS, ETC. 
 
 persed. This occurred a little past noon. Tn about an 
 hour the fighting was partially renewed, but the action 
 did not become general till about 3 o'clock, when it com- 
 menced in earnest, and raged till night, both in the woods 
 and in the clearing, the latter being the scene of the 
 greatest slaughter. The battle was a very bloody one. 
 The British forces kept their station in the rear of the 
 clearing; and the Americans returned to their camp a lit* 
 tie to the south. Burgoyne claimed a victory, but his 
 loss, between five and six hundred, was nearly double that 
 of the Americans^ and the relative circumstances of the 
 two armies rendered his loss proportionately still more 
 severe. 
 
 The battle of October 7th, may be said, speaking in 
 general terms, to have been fought on the same field as 
 the former, but it covered more ground. It was brought 
 on, (says Professor Silliman, in his " Toitr." published 
 in 1820, where these battles and the incidents connected 
 with, are very fully recounted,) by a movement of Gen. 
 Burgoyne, who ordered a body of 1,500 men with ten 
 pieces of cannon to the right of his own line, with the 
 view of foixing the left wing of the American army and 
 covering a foraging party in that direction. This occur- 
 red about the middle of the afternoon; and the Ameri- 
 cans, though destitute of artillery, promptly commenced 
 the attack, and the battle soon extended along the whole 
 line. " After a sanguinary contest of less than an hour, 
 the discomfiture and retreat of the British, became gene- 
 ral; and they had scarcely regained their camp when their 
 lines were stormed with the greatest fury, and part of 
 Lord Balcarras' camp was for a short time in our pos- 
 session." 
 
 The entrenchments of the German reserve, under Col. 
 Breyman, were also stormed, the Colonel killed, and 
 
TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 93 
 
 his troops forced to abandon their position with great loss 
 both of killed and priboners ; and had not the night put 
 an end to the fighting, the whole British array would 
 have been overwhelmed in their entrenchments. 
 
 But though the coming on of night saved the enemy 
 from further slaughter, yet the battle was decisive That 
 same night the British abandoned their position, retired 
 to their works on the heights, and on the succeeding 
 night, leaving their camp fires lighted and various tents 
 standing, commenced a further retreat with the utmost prac- 
 ticable secrecy. The heavy rains and the deep roads so 
 embarrassed their movements that the)'^ did not reach 
 their last station, on the north side of the Fishkill creek 
 till the morning of October 10th, There, on the high 
 ground overlooking the meadows bordering the river, they 
 took up their final position. They were speedily followed 
 by Gen. Gates, whose forces were now greatly superior 
 in numbers and were so advantageously disposed as to 
 render further retreat by the British impossible, whose 
 position, moreover, was completely commanded by the 
 Americans. " Every part of the camp of the royal army," 
 says Silliman, " was exposed not only to cannon balls, 
 but to rifle shot; not a single place of safety could be found. 
 Even access to the river was very hazardous, and the ar- 
 my was soon distressed for want of water." 
 
 In this exposed and hopeless situation the British con- 
 tinued six days longer, when hostilities were terminated 
 by the surrender of the whole army. The articles of 
 capitulation were executed on the 16th, and the surren- 
 der took place on the next day — October 17th, 1777. 
 
 The ground on which Gen. Burgoyne delivered himself 
 and his associates in command to Gen. Gates, was on the 
 south bank of the Fishkill creek, near where now stands 
 the village of Schuylerville. Gen. Wilkinson, an aid of 
 
94 TOUR TO THE SPRINGS^ ETC. 
 
 Gen. Gates, and an eye-witness of the scene, describes it 
 as follows: 
 
 " Early in the morning of the 17ih. I visited Gen. 
 Burgoyne in his camp, and accompanied him to the 
 ground where his army were to lay down their arms, 
 from whence he rode to the bank of the Hudson river, 
 which he surveyed %^ith attention and asked me whether 
 it was not fordable. ' Certainly, sirj but do you observe 
 the people on the opposite shore?' ' Yes, (i^eplied he,) 
 'I have seen them too long.' He thea proposed to be 
 introduced to Gen. Gates, and we crossed the Fishkill and 
 proceeded to head-quarters, Gen. Burgoyne in front, viath 
 his Adjutant-General Kingston, and his aids Captain 
 Lord Petersham, and Lieutenant Wilford behind him. 
 Then followed Maj. Gen. Phillips, the Baron Reidesel, 
 and the other general officers and their suites, according 
 to rank. 
 
 " Gen. Gates, advised of Burgoyne's approach, met him 
 at the head of his camp, Burgoyne in a rich royal uni- 
 form, and Gates in a plain blue frock. When they had 
 approached nearly within sword's length, they reined up 
 and halted. I then named the gentlemen, and Gen. Bur- 
 gone raising his hat gracefully said — ' The fortune of 
 war, Gen. Gates, has made me your prisoner;' to which 
 the conqueror, returning a courtly salute, promptly re- 
 plied, ' I shall always be ready to bear testimony that 
 it has not been through any fault of your Excellency.' 
 
 *' Maj. Gen Phillips then advanced, and he and Gen, 
 Gates saluted and shook hands with the familiarity of old 
 acquaintances. The Baron Reidesel and the other officers 
 were introduced in their turn." 
 
 The ground on which the captured troops piled their 
 arms, was on the north bank of the Fishkill near its con- 
 fluence with the Hudson. It is 34 miles from Albany, 
 
TOUR TO THE SPRINGS, ETC. 95 
 
 and 11 miles above Stillwater village, and 10 miles east of 
 Saratoga Springs. 
 
 The severest individual loss of the British during the 
 severe and bloody struggle between these two armies, 
 was in the person of Gen. Frazier, who was shot by one 
 of Morgan's riflemen posted in a tree, in the battle of 
 October 7th. He was buried . the next morning- within 
 the principal redoubt on the heights. Mr. Silliman states 
 on a visit to the spot, in 1797, he found the grave still 
 visible, with a slight enclosure round it, but that subse- 
 quently the remains were removed to their native land. 
 He was an accomplished and gallant officer, possessing 
 the entire confidence and good-will of the army and 
 greatly respected and beloved by his associates. The 
 circumstances connected with his death and burial; the 
 capture of Major Ackland, of the British Grenadiers, 
 who was disabled by a severe wound and taken prisoner 
 in the same battle; the heroic fortitude of his wife, lady 
 Harriet Ackland, and of the Baroness Reidesel, in the 
 vai'ious scenes of peril and suffering through which they 
 passed; and the kindness and courtesy with which they 
 were treated by the victors, particularly by Gen. Schuy- 
 ler and his family, and which gave additonal lustre to the 
 victory, all these incidents have imparted to the principal 
 events of this scene a degree of romantic interest with 
 which few others, if any of the military occurrences of 
 that war are invested. 
 
 A visit to the battle grounds has become a favorite 
 excursion to travellers, and by visiters sojourning at 
 the Springs, during the summer months. 
 
 Ballston Spa, 12 miles northwest of Mechanicsville, 
 is an old and celebrated watering place. It is situated 
 in a valley near the Kayaderosseras creek, 30 miles 
 north of the city of Albany, and 24 miles from Troy, by 
 
96 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 
 
 railroad. It was incorporated in 1S07, and now contains 
 about 1,500 inhabitants, a court-house and jail, 1 Presby- 
 terian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist churchy 
 1 banking house, 6 hotels and taverns, and several pri- 
 vate boarding houses for visiters during the summer 
 months. The oldest and still the most esteemed foun- 
 tain, is known as the '^public ueZZ," en the flat west of 
 the centre of the village. It is said to have been first dis- 
 covered by the whites, in 1769, during the survey and par- 
 tition of the Kayaderosseras patent. It issues from a bed 
 of stiff blue clay and gravel. Besides the above, there are 
 several other springs of less note, possessing medicinal 
 properties of a similar character. 
 
 The Sans Souci Hotel at this place, erected by the late 
 Nichlas Low, Esq., in 1803, is an old and popular board- 
 ing house, delightfully situated near the centre of the 
 village. It is often thronged during the summer months 
 with visiters from every section of the United States and 
 Europe. 
 
 The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad terminates at 
 this place, where it unites with the Saratoga and Sche- 
 nectadij Railroad^ thus affording a speedy communica- 
 tion with the cities of Schenectady, Troy and Albany, 
 and with Saratoga Springs, 6| miles north of Ballston Spa. 
 
 The village of Sakatoga Springs, pleasantly situated 
 on a plain, surrounded in part by a beautiful grove of pine 
 trees, is the most noted watering place in the Union, the 
 mineral springs, possessing great medicinal properties, 
 vary somewhat in their analyses. It is built chiefly on 
 one broad street, and the numerous large hotels and 
 houses for the accommodation of visiters, give it an im- 
 posing appearance, particularly when thronged with com- 
 pany, as it usually is during the summer months. It was 
 incorporated in 1816, and now contains about 2,500 
 
SARATOGA SPRINGS. 97 
 
 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, one Presbyterian, one 
 Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist, one Universalist 
 and one Roman Catholic church ; one mutual insurance 
 company, an incorporated academy, a female seminary 
 and several select schools ; the Young Men's Association, 
 e new and popular chartered institution, numbering about 
 150 members j 35 stores of different kinds ; 2 iron foun- 
 dries, 1 machine shop, an extensive carriage manufac- 
 tory, and 3 printing offices, besides many other kinds of 
 mechanic work shops. 
 
 The hotels and boarding houses are numerous, and 
 many of them fitted up on a large and magnificent scale, 
 unsurpassed by any similar establishments in the Union. 
 The United States Hotel, situated near the railroad depot, 
 is a large four story brick edifice, furnishing accommoda- 
 tions for 400 guests ; the location is central, and within a 
 short distance of all the principal mineral springs. Con- 
 gress Hall, and Union Hall, are both old and popular es- 
 tablishments, situated on the south of the village near the 
 Congress Spring. The American Hotel is a new house 
 built of brick, in the centre of the village. It is well 
 furnished, and is kept open through the year, affording 
 good accommodations both in winter and summer. The 
 Columbian Hotel, Montgomery Hall, and jidelphi Hotel y 
 are all well kept public houses, and remain open for the 
 accommodation of visiters during the whole year. The 
 Washington Hall, Railroad House, Eagle Hotel, Tempe- 
 rance Hotel, Congress Spring Temperance House, Har- 
 mony Hall, New England Hall, and Prospect Mansion 
 House, besides some 20 or 30 private boarding houses, 
 also accommodate visiters. There are several public 
 bathing houses near the springs, wdiere cold and warm 
 water and shower baths can at all times be obtained. 
 
 The railroads afford a speedy communication between 
 the Springs and the cities of Albany, Schenectady, and 
 
93 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 
 
 Troy. The Saratoga and Washington Railroad, when 
 completed, is to extend from Saratoga Springs to White- 
 hall, a distance of 40 miles. Stages now run from the 
 Springs to Glen's Falls and Caldwell's, as well as to San- 
 dy Hill, Dunham's Basin, and Whitehall. 
 
 The celebrated Mineral Waters, which are the great 
 cause of attraction to this place, require a particular des' 
 criplion. At what precise period these springs were first 
 discovered, cannot now with any degree of certainty be 
 ascertained As early as 1773, a settlement was made 
 here, a little west of the High Rock Spring, for the dou- 
 ble purpose of trading with the Indians, and accommo- 
 dating invalids. The High Rock and Flat Rock were the 
 only springs at that time known. The Congress Spring 
 was first discovered in 1792. There are now within the 
 distance of about half a mile, some 10 or 12 important 
 mineral fountains, flowing to the surface, and most of 
 them located near the margin of a brook which runs 
 through the village on the east. Congress Spring, Wash- 
 ington Spring, Putnam's Spring, Pavilion Springs, Io- 
 dine Spring, Hamilton Spring, and the Flat Rock and 
 High Rock Springs, may be named as the most valuable 
 for their medicinal properties, and as objects of curiosity. 
 A cluster of mineral springs known as the " Ten Springs," 
 are situated about one mile east of the village. The most 
 celebrated of these springs is known as the Union Spring ; 
 in the vicinity of which is the Mansion House, a well 
 kept summer establishment. Large quantities of these 
 waters are annually exported to dilFerent parts of the 
 country, affording a handsome income to the several 
 owners, most of them being private property, although 
 no charge is made to visiters, other than what they vol- 
 untarily give to those who are employed to wait on them. 
 
SARATOGA SPRINGS. 99 
 
 The following are analyses of some of the priacipal 
 Springs of Saratoga. 
 
 Congress Spring. — From experiments and deductions 
 by Dr. Steel, one gallon, or 231 cubic inches of the wa- 
 ter of the Congress Spring, is found to contain the fol- 
 lowing substances, viz : 
 
 Grains. 
 
 Chloride of Sodium, (sea salt) 3S5.000 
 
 Hydriodate of Soda, 3 . 500 
 
 Bi-carbonate of " 8.982 
 
 " of Magnesia, 95.788 
 
 Carbonate of Lime, 9S . 098 
 
 " of Iron, 5.075 
 
 Silex, 1.500 
 
 Hydro-bromate of Potash, a trace, 
 
 Total grains, 597.943 
 
 Carbonic acid gas, cubic inches , 311 
 
 Atmospheric air, 7 
 
 Gaseous contents, 318 
 
 Washington Spring, is situated in a southwest di- 
 rection from Congress Spring. It is a sparkling acidu- 
 lous water; its temperature is 50 -degress, and one gallon 
 
 of it affords the following articles, viz : 
 
 Grains. 
 
 Chloride of sodium, 2S1.50 
 
 Bi-carbonate of Soda 16.50 
 
 " ofMagnesia, 40.92 
 
 Carbonate of Lime, 92.60 
 
 '• of Iron, 3.25 
 
 Silex , 3 . 50 
 
 Hydriodate of Soda, 2-75 
 
 Solid contents in a gallon, 439 . 02 
 
 Carbonic acid gas, cubic inches, 262.50 
 
 Atmospheric air, 6.80 
 
 Gaseous contents in a gallon, 269 • 30 
 
 L.ofC. 
 
100 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 
 
 Putnam's Congress Spring, is located a few rods 
 east of the United States Hotel. The following is an 
 analj'sis taken by James R. Chilton, M. D. of New- 
 York city. One gallon of water contains the following 
 ingredients, viz : 
 
 Grains, 
 
 Chloride of Sodium, 214.00 
 
 Carbonate of Soda, 14.32 
 
 of Lime, 6S.80 
 
 Iodide of Sodium, with a trace of Bromide of 
 
 Potassium, 2.00 
 
 Phospliate of Lime, • . • .21 
 
 Sulphate of Soda, 1.63 
 
 Carbonate of Magnesia, 51.60 
 
 " of Iron, 7.00 
 
 Silicia, 84 
 
 Alumina, -56 
 
 Total, 361 . 01 
 
 Carbonic acid, cubic inches, 341.88 
 
 Atmospheric air, 6 . 04 
 
 Total, 347 . 92 
 
 The gases were obtained and analyzed at the Spring, 
 the temperature of the water being 51° Fahrenheit, in 
 July. 
 
 Pavilion Fountain. This celebrated medicinal foun- 
 tain rises in a valley near the Pavilion Hotel, [destroyed 
 by fire in 1843,] and was tubed up from a depth of forty 
 feet, in May, 1840, after incredible labor and expense 
 The great curiosity it excited, and the crowds which it 
 daily attracted, induced the proprietors to have the same 
 analyzed in August following, when one gallon of water 
 was found to contain these constituents, viz : 
 
SARATOGA SPRINGS. 101 
 
 Grains, 
 
 Chloride of Sodium, 226.58 
 
 Carbonate of Mas^nesia, 62.50 
 
 " of Lime, 60.24 
 
 Carbonate of Soda, 4.70 
 
 Oxide of Iron, 3.10 
 
 Iodide of Sodium, > 9 75 
 
 Bromide of Potassium, • ) ' 
 
 Silica, .62 
 
 Alumina, .25 
 
 Total, 361.74 
 
 Carbonic acid gas, 480.01 
 
 Atmospheric air, 8 . 09 
 
 Cubic inches, 488. 10 
 
 The quantity of gas which evolves from the Pavilion 
 Fountain is double its volume of water ; which fact ren- 
 ders it an object of great curiosity, and increases its me- 
 dicinal properties. 
 
 Iodine Spring, is a new fountain, located a few rods 
 north of the celebrated High Rock Spring. According to 
 an analysis of Professor Emmons, of the Medical Col- 
 lege in Albany, one gallon of this water contains the fol- 
 lowing ingredients : Grains. 
 
 Muriate of Soda, 187 
 
 Carbonate of Lime, 26 
 
 '' Iron, 1 
 
 " Magnesia, 75 
 
 '' Soda, 2 
 
 Hydriodate of Soda or Iodine, 3^ 
 
 Total, 294^ 
 
 Carbonic acid gas, ( water bottled three weeks,). . 330 
 Atmospheric air, . - 4 
 
 Cubic inches, 334 
 
 The freedom of this water from iron is truly remarka- 
 ble, and as Professor E. remarks, " supplies a desidera- 
 
102 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 
 
 turn which has been long wanting, viz : a water which 
 may be drank by a certain class of invalids to whom iron 
 proves a decided injury. 
 
 Union Spring, one of the most celebrated of the 
 "Ten Springs:" analyzed in 1841, by James R. Chil- 
 ton, M. D. One gallon of this water contains the fol- 
 lowing ingredients : Grains. 
 
 Chloride of Sodium, 243.620 
 
 Carbonate of Magnesia, 84.265 
 
 " Lime, 41.600 
 
 '' Soda, 12.800 
 
 " Iron, 5.452 
 
 Iodide of Sodium, 3.600 
 
 A trace of Bromide of Potassium, Silica and 
 
 Alumina, 1 • 570 
 
 Total, 392.907 
 
 Carbonic acid gas, (from water bottled four 
 
 weeks,) 314.16 
 
 Atmospheric air, > 4.62 
 
 Cubic inches, 318.78 
 
 Saratoga Lake, lying in Saratoga county, is a beau- 
 tiful sheet of water, 4 miles southeast of the village of 
 Saratoga Springs, and 5 miles east of Ballston Spa : it 
 is 9 miles long and about 2 miles wide. This lake is 
 much resorted to during the summer months by parties of 
 pleasure, and it is stored with pike, pickerel, perch and 
 other fish. The shores abound with game, and with the 
 lake, afford ample sport to the huntsman and angler. 
 
 On leaving Saratoga Springs for the north, the travel- 
 ler is conveyed by stage to Glen's Falls and Caldwell, 
 or to Whitehall, via Sandy Hill, or Dunham's Basin ; 
 at the latter place the stage line connects with canal 
 packet boats running from Albany and Troy, to Whitehall. 
 
TOUR TO LAKE GEORGE, ETC. 103 
 
 The village of Glen's Falls, on the Hudson, 18 miles 
 north of Saratoga Springs, is a place of great interest. 
 The falls in the river at this point have a total de- 
 scent of about 50 feet, are varied and picturesque, and af- 
 ford hydraulic power to a vast extent, which is yet hut 
 partially used for manufacturing purposes. A new and 
 substantial bridge, about 500 feet long, has been erected 
 here on the site of the old one. It is a free bridge and 
 affords a favorable view of the falls and river. The 
 Champlain canal feeder passes on the north side of the 
 river at this place, receiving its waters from the Hudson, 
 two miles above the village, and uniting with the Cham- 
 plain canal a few miles east of Sandy Hill, affording a 
 navigable communication with Lake Champlain, and the 
 tide waters of the Hudson river. 
 
 This village was incorporated in 1839, and now con- 
 tains about 1,800 inhabitants, 225 dwelling houses, one 
 Presbyterian, one Baptist, and one Methodist church j 
 an incorporated academy, and a female seminary ; four 
 hotels and taverns ; thirty stores and groceries ; one grist 
 mill, four extensive saw-mills, including three gang mills 
 of twenty-five saws each, and four English mills ; four 
 marble mills, containing 275 saws ; one plaster mill, one 
 furnace, three machine shops, one marble polishing and 
 chimney piece manufactory, two tanneries, and three ex- 
 tensive establishments for making lime. On both sides 
 of the river at this place are extensive beds of black mar- 
 ble, which for beauty of color and brilliancy of polish, 
 are not exceeded in this country. From this marble, lime 
 also is made of a superior quality. Below the falls, na- 
 ture has exposed the strata in such a way that the thick- 
 ness of the several layers can be examined to the depth 
 of at least 70 feet. 
 
104 TOUR TO LAKE GEORGE, ETC. 
 
 The principal hotel at Glen's Falls, where the stage 
 usually stops for passengers to dine, has long been cele- 
 brated for its delicious hill of fare. 
 
 The road from this place to Caldwell, at the head of 
 Lake George, a distance of 9 miles, passes over a wild 
 and romantic region of country, connected with stirring 
 events in the Revolutionary and old French wars, which 
 make it classic p^round. Before reaching Lake George 
 you pass the " Bloody Pond,'^ near which in Septemherj 
 1755, about 1,000 English and French Mere killed, and 
 their bodies thrown into this pond, which now presents 
 a wild and gloomy appearance. 
 
 The village of Caldwell is delightfully situated at the 
 southwest end of Lake George, 62 miles north of the 
 city of Albany. It contains about 200 inhabitants, 35 
 dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, a county clerk's 
 office, one church, four hotels and taverns, two stores, 
 one grist-mill, one saw-mill, and a plaster mill, situated 
 on Mill brook. In the vicinity of this place, near the 
 south end of the Lake, is situated the site of old Fort 
 Willia?n Henry, and a short distance beyond, the ruins 
 of Fort George ; still further south are the ruins of Fori 
 Gage ; all of which are associated with the early history 
 of this part of the country both in peace and war. The 
 Lake House, at this place is a well kept hotel, and is 
 much resorted to during warm weather. It is a delight- 
 ful summer retreat, where are to be found desirable accom- 
 modations for fishing parlies and parlies of pleasure. — 
 The steamer William Caldwell, plies regularly between 
 Caldwell and the outlet of the lake at Ticonderoga, a 
 distance of 36 miles ; stages then transport passengers a 
 distance of 4 miles from the landing on Lake George, to the 
 steamboat landing on Lake Champlain ; affording one of 
 the most picturesque and romantic excursions imaginable. 
 
X,AKE G120IIGE. 105 
 
 Lake George, or Horicon, is justly celebrated for its 
 varied, romantic and beautiful scenery, and for the trans- 
 parency and purity of its waters. It is 36 miles long, 
 north and south, and from two to three miles wide ; and 
 is elevated 243 feet above the tide water of the Hudson, 
 although its waters flow north into Lake Champlain. It 
 is surrounded by high and picturesque hills, sometimes 
 rising to mountain height — ^and dotted with numerous 
 islands, said to count as many as there are days in the 
 year -, some are of considerable size, and cultivated ; 
 while others are only a barren rock, rising majestically 
 out of the surrounding waters. Diamond Island, near 
 the village of Caldwell, is celebrated for its beautiful 
 quartz crystals, which in shape and brilliancy resemble 
 pure diamonds. The wild and romantic scenery of this 
 lake is no where surpassed. The bed of the lake is a 
 handsome yellowish sand, and the water is so pure and 
 transparent, as to render the bottom visible from 30 to 
 40 feet. Here the delicious salmon trout, that weigh 
 from 5 to 20 pounds, are found in great numbers and 
 of the finest quality. Silver trout, brook trout, pike, 
 pickerel, perch, and several other kinds of fresh water 
 lish are also abundant. Travellers on the tour from the 
 Springs to Canada, should not fail to visit Lake George ; 
 by the French called Lat Sacrament, on account of the 
 purity of its waters. The steamboat " "William Cald* 
 well," runs through the lake, from Caldwell to the land- 
 ing near the village of Ticonderoga, whence stages run 
 to Fort Ticonderoga, at the steamboat landing on Lake 
 Champlain ; where steam passage boats on their route 
 from Whitehall to St. John's, touch daily, during the 
 season of navigation. This route is varied in scenery, 
 and deeply interesting in historical incidents. 
 
 H 
 
106 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 
 
 Route from Saratoga Springs to Whitehall. 
 
 The village of Sandy Hill, through which passes the 
 stage route from Saratoga Springs to Whitehall, is situated 
 on elevateJ ground on the east side of the Hudson, 19 
 miles from Saratoga Springs, and 50 miles north of the 
 city of Albany. The water power at this place is very 
 great, there being a fall of about 12 feet at the upper 
 part of the village, while about 100 rods teicw with a 
 continuous descent, are situated Baker^s Falls, where 
 there is an almost perpendicular fall of 50 feet, affording 
 hydraulic power to a great extent, none of which is at 
 present used for manufacturing purposes. 
 
 The Champlain canal feeder passes through this place, 
 uniting v>"ith the main canal one or two miles east of the 
 village, affording canal navigation to Lake Champlain 
 and to the navigable w-aters of the Hudson. The Sara- 
 toga and 'V/ashington Railroad, when completed, will 
 run through Sandy Hill, from Saratoga Springs to White- 
 hall, a distance of 40 miles. 
 
 A daily line of stages run during the summer months 
 from Saratoga Springs to Dunham's Basin, 2 miles east 
 of Sandy Hill, on the Champlain Canal, connecting with 
 canal packets running from Albany and Troy to Whitehall. 
 
 The village of Fort Edward is 2 miles south of San. 
 dy Hill. This vicinity having been celebrated during the 
 old French and Revolutionary wars, as the theatre of 
 military exploits and savage murder, Ave subjoin the fol- 
 lowing extract : " The remains of Fort Edward are still 
 to be seen in the very centre of the romantic little village 
 which now bears its name. At a short distance north, 
 the place is shown where Miss Jane McCrea was mur- 
 dered by the Indians. Tradition has accurately preserv- 
 ed the location of that most bloody and most melancholy 
 deed. She was on her way to join an officer in the British 
 
TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 107 
 
 army to whom she was to be married. She cominilted 
 herself, against the remonstrance of her friends, to a 
 party of Indians as the safest escort in those times. They 
 met another party at this place, sent by the anxious and 
 expecting bridegroom, and an altercation ensued in re- 
 ference to the promised reward ; in the midst of which 
 they were attacked hj a party of whites. When the con- 
 flict was over she was found tomahawked and scalped. 
 Her lover was overwhelmed with grief, and survived but 
 a short time." 
 
 Fort Ann, 10 miles north of Sandy Hill, is a place 
 of interest, being on^ of many fortified points between 
 Lake Charaplain and the Hudson river, celebrated in 
 the early history of the country. The old fort, of which 
 hardly a vestige now remains, was erected in 1756. 
 
 The village of Whitehall, 72 miles north of Albany, 
 is advantageously situated in a narrow valley at the head 
 of Lake Champlain ; it was incorporated in 1820, and 
 now contains about 2,400 inhabitants, 300 dwelling 
 houses, one Presbyterian, one Episcopal, and one Metho- 
 dist church ,• one banking house, four hotels, thirty 
 stores and groceries, and two extensive forwarding houses; 
 several manufacturing establishments ; two ship yards 
 and two dry docks, where are built and repaired steam- 
 boats, lake craft and canal boats; two brick yards and 
 one tannery, besides almost every other kind of mechanic 
 work shops. Here are owned 2 or 3 steamboats for the 
 conveyance of passengers and merchandise, and two 
 steamboats used as tow boats ; 50 sloops and schooners, 
 averaging about 100 tons burthen, and 70 canal boats, 
 besides others owned on diflerent parts of Lake Cham- 
 plain, which trade with and pass through this place. 
 Two daily lines of canal packets leave Whitehall for 
 Troy and Albany, and two daily lines of stages, one pas- 
 sing on each side of the Hudson river ; in addition to 
 
108 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 
 
 which two daily lines of stages run to Saratoga Springs 
 during the summer months, connecting with the railroads 
 to Troy, Schenectady and Albany. A daily line of stages 
 run to Rutland, Vermont, intersecting stage lines running 
 to Boston, &c. During the close of navigation, a daily 
 line of stages run from here to Burlington and Montreal. 
 
 The passenger steamboats now running on Lake Cham- 
 plain, from Whitehall to St. John's, Canada, are the 
 Burlington, commanded by Richard W. Sherman, the 
 Whitehall, commanded by G. Lathrop, and the Saranac, 
 These boats are celebrated for the admirable discipline 
 observed on board and for quiet and comfort. 
 
 One of the above boats will leave Whitehall daily, at 
 10 o'clock A. M. during the season of navigation, which 
 usually lasts from the middle of April to the first of De- 
 cember. The fare through to St. John's is now reduced 
 to $3.00 for cabin passage. 
 
 Lake Champlain, lying between the states of New- 
 York and Vermont, extends north and south a distance of 
 140 miles ; varying from half a mile or less, to 10 miles 
 in width ; it is a long, narrow and deep body of water, 
 dotted with a number of islands, the largest of which be- 
 long to Vermont. From Whitehall to Crown Point, the 
 lake is quite narrow, but here it begins to expand, and 
 soon becomes 3 miles wide, still increasing northward, 
 until near Burlington, where it spreads to its greatest 
 width. Steamboats of the first class, and sloops of from 
 50 to 100 tons burthen navigate this lake its whole length, 
 thence down the Sorelle, or Richelieu river, its outlet, to 
 St. Johns, Canada, where steamboat navigation ceases ; 
 a total distance of about 150 miles. This lake is connect- 
 ed with the navigable waters of the Hudson, by means 
 of the Champlain canal, which extends south, a distance 
 of 63 miles; also by the Chambly Canal, on the north, 
 with the St. Lawrence river. As you approach near the 
 
TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 109 
 
 centre of Lake Champlain, a large body of water presents 
 itself to view, bordered by scenery of the most picturesque 
 description. The headlands which are seen to great ad- 
 vantage, and the vast ranges of mountains on either side, 
 are truly grand and romantic. The highest peak of the 
 Green Mountains, called the " Camel's Rump/' is seen on 
 the east, while the high ranges of the mountains of Essex 
 county, are seen on the west. This latter range of moun- 
 tain peaks, the Adirondack group, contain the highest 
 land in the state of New- York, rising in some places to the 
 height of 5,000 feet and upwards, richly stored with iron 
 ore and timber of large growth. 
 
 In the streams which flow into this lake are frequent 
 waterfalls of great beauty ; and the fine headlands and 
 bays of the lake itself give a picturesque charm to its 
 shores. Its waters are stocked with salmon, salmon 
 trout, sturgeon, pickerel, and various other kinds of fish. 
 
 FoBT TicoNDEROGA. The ruins of this old fortification 
 are situated in the town of Ticonderoga, Essex Co. on the 
 west side of Lake Champlain, at the entrance of the outlet 
 of Lake George, 24 miles north of Whitehall. This place 
 was originally called Che-on-der-o-ga hy the Indians, sig- 
 nifying, in their language, noise; its name was afterwards 
 slightly changed by the French into its present appellation, 
 which it has borne ever since it was first occupied and forti- 
 fied by them in 1756. The fort was at first named Fort 
 Carillion, but afterwards called Fort Ticonderoga, by the 
 English and Americans. This fortification cost the French 
 goyernment a large sum of money, and was considered 
 very strong both by nature and art. It stands on a point 
 of land, elevated 70 feet above Lake Champlain, being 
 surrounded on three sides by water, and on the northwest 
 it was defended by strong breast works. Mount Inde- 
 pendence^ on the opposite or east side of the lake, was 
 
no TOUR TO CANADAj ETC. 
 
 also fortified, and some of the intrench ments are still 
 visible, elevated 110 feet above the lake, and overlook- 
 ing the peninsula of Ticonderoga. After several sangui- 
 nary conflicts in this vicinity and under the very walls of 
 the fort, in which several thousand lives were sacrificed, 
 this important niilitary position was tamely evacuated 
 by the French in 1759, and given up to the British array 
 under Lord Amherst ; who retained possession until it 
 was taken by surprise by Col. Ethan Allen, of the 
 American armj^, in 1775. He is said to have entered the fort 
 through a subterraneous passage from the south, extend- 
 ing to the lake ; surprising the commandant in his bed be- 
 fore he vras aware of his danger, and in his characteris- 
 tic way required the officer to surrender. He asked to 
 whom? "Why, to Jehovah and the Continental Con- 
 gress, to be sure j" was his laconic reply. In 1777, the 
 British army, under Gen. Burgoyne, on their route to 
 Saratoga, appeared in array before Ticonderoga, w'hen 
 Gen. St. Clair, the American commander, was forced to 
 evacuate J the enemy having erected a battery on 3Iouni 
 Defiance, in the rear, elevated 720 feet above the lake, 
 which overlooked and completely commanded this forti- 
 fication, which was before considered almost impregna- 
 ble ; it then remained in the hands of British until the 
 close of the war. Since tliat time it has been suffered to 
 go to decay, and now presents one of the most interesting 
 ruins of the kind in this country, and is annually visited 
 by a great number of travellers. Near by, delightfully 
 situated on the lake shore, is a well kept hotel for the ac- 
 commodation of visiters. Here steamboats, during the 
 season of navigation, daily land and receive passengers, 
 on their route from Whitehall to St. John's, Canada. 
 
TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. Ill 
 
 The following account of the dkff.at of the British 
 AT TicoNDEKOGA, IN 1759, is taken from the " Memoirs 
 an American LaJy,'' written b}- Mrs. Grant. 
 
 " The araiy un.ler the command of Gen. Abercrorabie, 
 crossed Lake George on the 5th of July, and landed with- 
 out opposition. They proceeded in four columns to Ti- 
 conderoga, and displayed a spectacle unprecedented in the 
 New World. An army of sixteen thousand men, regu- 
 lars and provin3ials, with a train of artillery, and all the 
 necessary pro\'isions for an active campaign cr regular 
 siege, followed by a fleet of batteaux, pontons. &c. 
 They set out wrong, however, by not having Indian guides, 
 who are alone to be depended en in such a place. In a 
 short time the columns fell in upon each other, and oc- 
 casioned much confusion. The advance guard of the 
 French, w'hich had retired before them, were equally be- 
 wildered, and falling in with each other in this confusion, 
 a skirmish ensued, in which the French lost above three 
 hundred m^en, and the English, though successful in this 
 first rencontre, lost as much as it was possible to lose, in 
 one man — for here it w^as that the valiant Lord How^e, 
 the second in command, fell mortally w-ounded. He was 
 shot from behind a tree, probably by some Indians ; and 
 the whole army w'ere inconsolable for a loss they too well 
 knew to be irreparable. 
 
 '' The fort is in a situation of peculiar natural strength ; 
 it lies on a little peninsula, wdth Lake Champlain on one 
 side and a narrow opening communicating wdth Lake 
 George, on the other. This garrison, which was well 
 prepared for attack, and almost impregnable from situa- 
 tion, was defended by between four and five thousand 
 men. An engineer sent to reconnoitre, was of opinion 
 that it might be attacked wdthout waiting for the artillery. 
 The fatal resolution was taken without consulting those 
 who were best qualified to judge. 
 
112 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 
 
 " I cannot enter into the dreadful detail of what fol' 
 lowed. Certainly never was infatuation equal to this. 
 The forty-second regiment was then in the height of de- 
 served reputation, and commanded by a veteran of great 
 experience and military skill, Col. Gordon Graham, who 
 had the first point of attack assigned to him He was 
 wounded at the first onset, and of the survivors, every 
 officer retired wounded off the field. Of the fifty- fifth 
 f egiment, ten officers were killed, including all the field 
 officers. No human beings could show more determined 
 courage than this brave array did — standing four hours 
 under a constant discharge of, cannon and musketry from 
 barricades, on which it was impossible for them to make 
 the least impression. Gen. Abercrombie saw the fruit- 
 less waste of blood that was every hour increasing, and 
 ordered a retreat, which was very precipitate ; so much 
 so, that they crossed the lake, and regained their camp 
 on the other side, the same night. Two thousand men 
 were killed, wounded, or taken in this disastrous engage- 
 ment ; which, was however, quickly succeeded by the 
 dear bought conquest of Quebec, where fell both the ri- 
 val commanders, Wolfe and Montcalm." 
 
 Mount Defiance, about one mile southwest of Fort Ti- 
 conderoga, on the south side of the outlet to Lake George, 
 is a bold promontory, elevated about 800 feet above the 
 level of the Lake. While the ascent from the water or 
 eastern face is quite steep and difficult, the approach 
 from the west is easy. It was from this quarter that 
 Gen. Burgoyne, in 1777, ascended this mountain and 
 planted several pieces of artillery — obliging the Ameri- 
 cans to evacuate the fort, which was before considered al- 
 most impregnable. The top of this eminence gives a 
 grand view of Lake Champlain and the surrounding 
 country, and is well worthy of a visit, which can easily 
 be accomplished on foot. 
 
TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 113 
 
 The village of Ticonderoga, two miles west of 
 Lake Champlain, is situated on the outlet of Lake 
 George, where is a thriving settlement, surrounded 
 by picturesque mountain scenery. One or two miles 
 farther west on the road to Lake George, is situated ano- 
 ther village called Upper Ticonderoga or Alexandria, 
 Here is a most beautiful fall of water, affording immense 
 hydraulic power, a small part of which is only used for 
 propelling machinery. The steamboat landing, at the 
 foot of Lake George, is about one mile west of the latter 
 place, the whole distance to Lake Champlain being four 
 miles. 
 
 Shokeham, 2 miles from Ticonderoga, on the opposite 
 side of the lake, is a regular steamboat landing. 
 
 Bridport, 9 miles further, is another landing on 
 the Vermont shore. 
 
 Chimney Point, 6 miles north of Bridport, is also 
 another landing on the east side of the lake. 
 
 Crown Point, 18 miles north of Ticonderoga, on the 
 west side of Lake Champlain, presents an interesting ap- 
 pearance from the water. The ruins of the old fortifi- 
 cations are situated on a neck of land running into the 
 lake ; the embankments are visible and indicate an im- 
 mense amount of labor expended to render this point in- 
 vulnerable to an approaching foe, whether by land or wa- 
 ter ; yet it was taken by surprise, at the commencement 
 of the revolutionary struggle, by the celebrated Col. 
 Ethan Allen. 
 
 Port Henry, on the west side of the lake is situated 
 on Cedar Point, at the mouth of Bulwagga Bay , which 
 separates Crown Point from the main land. Here are 
 the works of the Port Henry Iron Company , with iron 
 ore of good quality in the vicinity. 
 
 Westport, 54 miles north of Whitehall, is situated on 
 northwest bay, on the west side of Lake Champlain. It 
 
114 TOUR TO CANADAj ETC. 
 
 contains 6 or 700 inhabitants and is a thriving place. A 
 horse ferry boat here plies across the lake, running to 
 Basin Harbor, Vermont. 
 
 Fort Cassin, 7 miles further north, on the east side 
 of Lake Champlain, is situated near the mouth of the 
 Otter river, which is navigable to Vergennes, a distance 
 of 5 miles. 
 
 Split Rock, on the wes? side of the lake, 2 or 3 miles 
 south of the village of Essex, is a rocky promontory pro- 
 jecting into the lake on the west side, about 150 feet, and 
 elevated above the level of the water some 30 or 40 feet. 
 This is perhaps the greatest natural curiosity on Lake 
 Champlain. 'The part detached contains about half an 
 acre, covered with a small growth of trees, and is sepa- 
 rated from the main rock about 20 feet. It is evident this 
 rock has been detached by some convulsion of nature, as 
 the two faces exactlj^ fit each other — the prominences in 
 the one corresponding with the cavities in the other. 
 
 The village of Essex, 6S miles from Whitehall, is 
 handsomely situated on the west side of Lake Cham- 
 plain, opposite Charlotte Landing, with M'hich it is 
 connected by a horse ferry boat. The lake here expands 
 to 3 or 4 miles in width, and presents a large expanse of 
 water towards the north. The Green Mountains of Ver- 
 mont, and the Adirondack Group of Essex county, are 
 here seen stretching north and south in vast mountain 
 peaks and ridges. The CameVs Rump, being one of the 
 highest peaks of the former, is overlooked by Mount 
 Marcy on the New- York side of the lake, the latter being 
 elevated 5,467 feet, or upwards of one mile above the 
 tide waters of the Hudson ; and near it this noble river 
 has its most northern source. 
 
TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 115 
 
 BtTRLiNGTON, Vermont, 82 miles from Wliitehall and 
 75 miles from St. John's, Canada, b)- steamboat route, is 
 most delightfully situated on the east shore of Lake 
 Chaniplain. This is Ihe most important place in the irtate, 
 lying on Burlington Bay. It possesses a convenient 
 and safe harbor for steamboats and lake craft. The 
 United States government have here erected a breakwater, 
 v/hich protects the shipping from westerly winds, and 
 is a great addition to the security of the harbor. In 
 1840, it contained a population of 4,721 inhabitants; 
 about 600 dwelling houses; the University of Vermont, 
 consisting of four spacious edifices; the Episcopal Insti- 
 tute; a court-house and jail; 7 churches of difterent de- 
 nominations, an academy and 2 female seminaries, 2 
 banking houses, several well kept hotels, and a number 
 of stores of different kinds; besides several factories and 
 mills, and most every kind of mechanic establishments. 
 
 This village overlooking the lake, with its bays, islands, 
 and adjacent scenery — the passing steamboats and other 
 vessels; possesses a beauty of location probably unsurpass- 
 ed by any other place in the Union, In tradp and commerce 
 it is closely allied with the interests of the State of New- 
 York. Steamboats stop here daily on their route from 
 Whitehall to St. John's. Canada; a steamboat also plies 
 from this place to Port Kent, en the opposite side of the 
 lake, a distance of 10 miles, and thence to Plattsburgh, a 
 further distance of 12 miles. 
 
 Port Kent, is advantageously situated on the west 
 side of Lake Champlain, 12 miles south of the village of 
 Plattsburgh. It contains about 250 inhabitants, 30 dwel- 
 ling houses, 1 church, 2 taverns, 3 stores and 2 ware- 
 houses. The site of this place is beautiful, command- 
 ing one of the finest views on Champlain, extending to 
 
116 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 
 
 the opposite shore of Vermont. It is contemplated to 
 construct a railroad from Port Kent to the Au Sable Forks, 
 a distance of 16 miles, passing through the villages of 
 KeesevUle and Clintonville. Immediately south of the 
 landing at this place, lies Trembleu Point, the com- 
 mencement of the Clinton range of mountains, 
 
 Keeseville, is situated on both sides of the Au Sable 
 river, 4 miles west of Port Kent. It contains about 
 2,000 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, 1 Congregational, 
 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist and 1 Roman Catholic church, an 
 incorporated academy, 1 banking house, 2 taverns, and 
 18 stores and groceries. The water power at this place 
 is very great, and advantageously used by several manu- 
 facturing establishments. The "Keeseville Manufactur- 
 ing Company" is chartered, with a paid capital of $40,000 j 
 they own on the north side of the river, an extensive 
 water power, on which is situated a forge with three fires, 
 a rolling mill and nail factory, which manufacture into 
 roll iron and nails about 1,000 tons of iron annually. 
 The "Keeseville Wollen and Cotton Company" is also 
 chartered, with a paid capital of $30,000: they own on 
 the south side a large factorj'^ building, to which is at- 
 tached a drying house and a dye house, all built of stone 
 in the most substantial manner. There are also 2 flouring 
 mills, 4 extensive saw mills, which make annually about 
 half a million of market boards; 1 furnace and a ma- 
 chine shop, 1 plaster mill, 1 brewery, 1 large wheel- 
 wright shop, 1 tannery, and 1 printing office, together with 
 most other kinds of mechanic work shops. 
 
 At Birmingham, 2 miles below Keeseville, is a sue 
 cession of picturesque falls, in all about 150 feet descent. 
 Immediately below the lower falls the river enters a deep 
 ravine of singular and romantic beauty. Through the 
 chasm thus formed by the wearing of the waters, or 
 
TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 117 
 
 some convulsion of nature, the rocks rise from 75 to 150 
 feet, almost perpendicular, for a distance of about two 
 miles, averaging about 50 feet in width, altogether form- 
 ing a great natural curiosity. In addition to the above, 
 there are other ravines in this vicinity of singular for. 
 mation. 
 
 Plattsburgh, is situated on both side of the Saranac 
 river, on the west shore of Lake Champlain, 162 miles 
 north of the city of Albany. It was incorporated in 
 1815, and now contains about 2,600 inhabitants, 350 
 dwelling houses, a court-house, jail and county clerk's 
 officej 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist and 
 1 Roman Catholic churchj an incorporated lyceum 
 and an incorporated academy ; 5 hotels and tav- 
 erns, 30 stores and groceries, 1 flouring mill, 1 grist 
 mill, 2 cotton factories, 3 woollen factories, 2 marble 
 mills, 2 fulling mills, 2 saw mills, 2 tanneries, 1 machine 
 shop, 1 soap manufactory, and 2 printing offices, together 
 with almost every other kind of mechanic work shops. 
 The water power at this place is very great; the Saranac 
 river here ^having a succession of falls, making a total 
 descent of about 40 feet; only a part of which is occu- 
 pied for manufacturing purposes. The surrounding coun- 
 try is rich in agricultural and mineral productions, and 
 Plattsburgh is the proposed termination of the Ogdens- 
 burgh and Lake Champlain Railroad, which when com- 
 pleted, will greatly tend to develop the resources of the 
 whole northern part of the State of New- York. This is 
 an United States military post, where the government are 
 now erecting extensive stone barracks, near the lake 
 shore, south of the village, and a permanent breakwater 
 for the protection of the harbor. 
 
 Plattsburgh was the scene of an important engagement 
 between the British and American armies, in September, 
 
118 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 
 
 1814, which resulted in the defeat of the British, under 
 the command of Sir George Prevost, and the capture of 
 the British fleet under Com. Downie, who was killed in 
 the action. The American army was commanded by 
 Maj. Gen. Macomb, and the fleet by Com. PvIcDonough. 
 
 The officers, on both sides, who fell in the several 
 encounters by land and water, on the memorable occasion 
 just mentioned, were buried in the public cemetery adja- 
 cent to the village of Plattsburgh; but their graves were 
 left, under the pressing exigencies of that time, without 
 any permanent monument, or stone of memorial. That 
 community, long discontented with an omission w^hich 
 seemed to betoken an apathy not at all in unison with 
 real feelings, at last determined to make amends for their 
 neglect, and fufil all the rites of sepulture. Accordingly, 
 a little previous to the return of the anniversary of the 
 battle, in 1843, meetings were held at which it Avas re- 
 solved to celebrate the day, by placing marble monu- 
 ments, with appropriate inscriptions, at the several 
 graves, and thus render to the brave and devoted dead, 
 the remaining public honors so eminently their due, and 
 so long left unpaid. This design was carried into eflfect 
 under the superintendence of the Clinton County Mili- 
 tary Association, and the anniversary rendered deeply 
 interesting by the placing of these monuments, wdth ap- 
 propriate ceremonies and religious services, accompanied 
 by commemoration addresses. 
 
 The graves are arranged in the form of a parallelogram, 
 with that of Capt. Downie, the commander of the British 
 flotilla, in the centre, as the officer of highest rank. 
 The names of the others, so far as known, are as follow: 
 Of our own countrymen, Lt. George W. Runk, of the 
 U. S. A.J Lt. Peter Gamble, U. S. N.; Lt. John Stan?, 
 bury, U. S. N.j Sailing Master Rogers Carter, U. S. N.j 
 
TOUR TO CANADA, ECT. 119 
 
 Midshipman James M. Baldwin, U. S. N.; Pilot Joseph 
 Barron, U. S. N., and another pilot, name not known. 
 Of the British army j Col. Wellington, 3d Regt. Buffs, 
 Capt, PurchesS; 76th Regt., and a Lieutenant, name not 
 known, of the 3d Regt. Buffs; and of the British navy 
 three Lieutenants, names not known. 
 
 The beautiful lines of an Irish poet of the last century, 
 (Collins,) can never be more appropriate than to this 
 occasion: 
 
 " How sleep the brave who sink to rest, 
 By all their country's wislies blest ! 
 When spring with dewy fingers colrl, 
 Returns to deck their hallowed moulrl. 
 She there shall dress a sweeter sod 
 Than fancy's feet liave ever trotl. 
 Tiiere honor comes, a pilgrim grey, 
 To bless the turf that wraps their clay, 
 And memory shall awhile repair 
 To-dwell a weeping hermit there." 
 
 Cumberland Head, is a peninsula extending two or 
 three miles into the lake, opposite the village of Platts- 
 burgh, forming Cumberland Bay, into which empties the 
 Saranac river. 
 
 Crab, or Hospital Island, lies 2 miles south, and 
 near the track of the steamers on their way to and 
 from the landing at Plattsburgh. It was on a line near- 
 ly north and south between Cumberland Head and Crab 
 Island, that the British and American fleets encountered 
 each other, on the 11th of September, 1814, a day which 
 brought so much honor to the American flag. 
 
 South Hero, and North Hero, are the names of two 
 Islands belonging to the jurisdiction of Vermont. The 
 former is connected by a ferry, on the west side with 
 Cumberland Head, and on the east side with the main 
 shore of Vermont. 
 
120 TOTJR TO CANADA, ETC. 
 
 Chazy Landing, 16 miles north of Plattsburgh, is a 
 convenient steamboat landing, on the west side of Lake 
 Champlain. 
 
 Isle au Mott, opposite the above landing, is a fine 
 island, also attached to Vermont. It is 6 miles long and 
 2 miles vride, containing much good land, and a valuable 
 quarry of marble. 
 
 The town of Alburg, Vt. is a triangular body of land, 
 projecting from Canada into Lake Champlain, by which 
 it is surrounded, excepting on the Canada side. On the 
 eastern shore lies the village of Alhurg, a port of entry, 
 and a few miles north is Alburg Springs, where is a small 
 settlement, and mineral spring of considerable etficacy in 
 scrofula and other cases. 
 
 MissisQui Bat, still further northeast, is a large body 
 of water lying mostly in Canada, or north of the 45th de- 
 gree of north latitude. 
 
 The village of Rouse's Point, in the town of Cham- 
 plain, 25 miles north of Plattsburgh, and 132 miles from 
 Whitehall, is situated on the west side of Lake Cham- 
 plain, about one mile south of the Canada line, and has a 
 convenient steamboat landing. It is surrounded in part 
 by a level and fertile region, which extends west to the 
 St. Lawrence river. One mile north of the village is a 
 military position commanding the navigable channel of 
 the lake. In 1815, the government of the United States 
 commenced the construction of a strong fortress at Rouse's 
 Pointj but on running out the boundary line between the 
 United States and Canada, under the treaty of Ghent, 
 this point was found to be north of the 45th degree of 
 north latitude, and the works were suspended. By the 
 treaty of Washington, concluded in 1842, the boundary 
 was so adjusted, however, as to give this point to the 
 United States. The suspended works are in a very dilapi- 
 
TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 121 
 
 dated condition, and serves at present only as a land-mark 
 to indicate the line of division between two national juris- 
 dictions. 
 
 At the Line, the lake, which, a little south, is 3 
 miles acrossj narrows to about a mile in width. On the 
 castj as the steamer passes into the Canadian waters, 
 may be seen a long line of road cut through a forest : this 
 marks the boundaries between Canada and the United 
 States. 
 
 Ash Island, 4 miles north of Rouse's Point, is consi- 
 sidered the foot of Lake Champlain. Here the Richelieu, 
 or St. John's river, as the outlet of Lake Champlain is 
 called, is about half a mile wide. The land on both sides 
 of the stream seems almost level with the water, and 
 presents this low and flat surface for many miles. 
 
 Isle atjx Noix, situated in the Richelieu river, 12 
 miles north of Rouse's Point, is the first steamboat land- 
 ing after entering Canada. Here is a strong fortification 
 occupied by British troops, and commanding the channel 
 of the river. The American steamer is compelled to 
 land at this place to take on board a custom house oflicer, 
 and to show their permit as it returns. On the arrival of 
 the boat at St. John's, being as far as the river is naviga- 
 ble for steamboats; the baggage of the passengers is 
 subject to the inspection of custom house officers, before 
 being removed on shore; a duty being levied on such arti- 
 cles as are not allowed to enter free. 
 
 St. John's, or I>orchester, 157 miles from Whitehall, 
 is advantageously situated on the west side of the Riche- 
 lieu river, abridge connecting it with the village of St, 
 Anthanaise on the opposite shore. It is 23 miles north of 
 the American line, 24 miles southeast of Montreal, and 
 contains about 2000 inhabitants, 250 dwelling houses, a 
 custom house and barracks for soldiers, 1 Episcopal, 1 
 
 I 
 
122 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 
 
 Roman Catholic, and 1 Methodist church; 10 hotels and 
 taverns, of which Mann's, Morehouse's, and Mrs. Wat- 
 son's are the most noted; 9 stores and 2 forwarding 
 houses, 2 tanneries and a number of mechanics' shops 
 of different kinds. 
 
 The Chambly Canal, extends from St. Sohn'sto Cham- 
 bly, on the north west side of the Richelieu river, a dis- 
 tance of 12 miles. It was completed in 1843, at a cost 
 of about $400,000. There are nine locks on this canal 
 120 feet long, 24 feet wide and 6 feet deep; lift 10 feet 
 each, making a total descent of 90 feet in 12 miles. 
 This canal was constructed by the Provincial govern- 
 ment. It affords navigation for vessels of 100 tons burden 
 between Lake Champlain and the St. Lawrence river, 
 thus furnishing an uninterrupted water communication 
 from New- York to Quebec, 
 
 The Champlain and St. Lawrence Railroad extend- 
 ing from St. John's to La Prairie on the St. Lawrence, a 
 a distance of 15 miles, belongs to a joint stock company. 
 It was completed in 1826, at a cost of $200,000 including 
 depot buildings, locomotives, cars, &c. The road runs 
 over a level section of country, and was constructed at a 
 less sum than the estimated cost. The usual fare from 
 St. John's to Montreal, is one dollar in first class cars; fifty 
 cents in second class cars. ' 
 
 At La Prairie, a convenient steam ferryboat conveys 
 passengers to Montreal, a distance of 9 miles. 
 
 The aspect of the St. Lawrence is truly grand and in- 
 teresting, as you approach it on the south from St John's. 
 Towards the west is seen the Lachine rapids, one of the 
 most dangerous on the river. Opposite Montreal it is 3 
 miles wide, embosoming the beautiful island of St. He- 
 len, which is fortified and garrisoned by British troops. 
 
TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 
 
 123 
 
 As you approach Montreal by water, the city, ship- 
 ping, and wharves are seen to great advantage. The lat- 
 ter — the wharves — ^probably exceed any thing of the 
 kind in America, consisting of a range of massive and 
 solid masonry extending along the river for upwards of 
 a mile, 
 
 *jt* For a description of Montreal, and other places 
 in Canada, see the Tour through Canada in the 
 -«' Picturesque Tourist," 
 
 TABLE OF DISTANCES BETWEEN ALBANY 
 AND MONTREAL, 
 
 BY THE MOST DIRECT ROUTE, 
 
 PLACES. 
 
 Albany, 
 
 Troy, , 
 
 Whitehall, . , . 
 
 Ticonderoga, 
 
 Burlington, 
 
 Plattsburgh,, . . . . . 
 Rouse's Point, . . . . , 
 St. John's, Canada, 
 Montreal, 
 
 Place to 
 place. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 66 
 
 24 
 58 
 25 
 25 
 24 
 24 
 
 From 
 Albany. 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 72 
 
 96 
 
 154 
 
 179 
 
 204 
 
 228 
 
 252 
 
 From 
 Montreal. 
 
 252 
 
 246 
 
 180 
 
 156 
 
 98 
 
 73 
 
 48 
 
 24 
 
 
 
124 TOUR TO CANADA, ETC. 
 
 TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM MONTREAL TO 
 QUEBEC, BY Water. 
 
 To Verennes, . » 15 Miles. 
 
 Williayn Henry,. 30 45 " 
 
 Lake St. Peter, 8 53 " 
 
 St. Francis, 30 83 " 
 
 Three Rivers, 7 90 '' 
 
 St. Anne, 25 1.55 " 
 
 Richelieu Rapids, ^ 20 135 " 
 
 Cape Sante, 15 150 '^ 
 
 Cape Rouge, • 22 178 '^ 
 
 Quebec...... 8 180 "• 
 
 TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM MONTREAL TO 
 KINGSTON. 
 
 To Lachine, by stage 9 Miles.. 
 
 CsLScsLdes, by sieajnboat, 24 33 " 
 
 Coteau du Lac, 6i^ s^fage, 16 49 " 
 
 Cornwall, by steamboat, ......... 41 90 *' 
 
 Dickinson's Landing, by canal, .... 12 102 " 
 
 OgdensburghjOrPrescott, s/eaw6oaf, 38 140 " 
 
 Brockville, do. 12 152 " 
 
 Kingston,, do. 60 212 " 
 
 From Kingston to Toronto, by steamboat^ 1^0 miles. 
 
 To Niagara Falls, by Steamboat and Railroadj^ 
 50 miles further. 
 
 Total distance from Montreal to Niagara Fall^^ 
 442 miles. 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 ROUTES FROM ALBANY AND TROY TO 
 BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS. 
 
 The first link of the great chain of railroads connect- 
 ing the navigable waters of the Hudson with Lake Erie, 
 is the Mohawk and Hudson Railroad. It was one of the 
 first constructed railroads in this state, the company hav- 
 ing been chartered in 1826. It extends from Albany to 
 Schenectady, 16 miles, and passes over a tract of sandy 
 land, covered nearly the whole distance with a thick 
 growth of stunted pines. Though at present barren and 
 uninviting, this district is capable of being rendered fruit- 
 ful and beautiful by judicious tillagej and at no extraor- 
 dinary cost. The sand is everywhere underlaid, general- 
 ly at no great depth, with clay; and at the bottoms of the 
 ravines and basins, or rather bowls, with which the 
 whole tract abounds ; are rich deposits of muck and 
 a marly clay, which could be mixed with the sand at 
 about as little cost as equal quantities of other manures, 
 and would furnish precisely those ingredients which are 
 now mostly deficient in the general soil. The few farms 
 which skirt this tract, are encouraging evidences of what 
 the whole could be rendered, and if so rendered, there 
 are few districts more beautiful than this would be. Its 
 surface is agreeably varied, and from its general elevation, 
 it commands a wide horizon, with distant prospects of 
 universal beauty. 
 
 The Schenectady and Troy Railroad, which has re- 
 cently been put in operation, extends from the city of 
 Troy to the city of Schenectady^ on a line of 20 miles in 
 
126 WESTERW TOUR. 
 
 length, and making with the other road, two lines of travel 
 diverging from the tide waters of the Hudson, in addi- 
 tion to the Erie Canal. This road from Troy inclines to 
 the north, running parallel with the Mohawk river, and, 
 is remarkable for the variety and beauty of its scenery. 
 The City or Schenectady is handsomely situated 
 on the south bank of the Mohawk, at the true com- 
 mencement of the celebrated valley of that river. This 
 is an ancient place, having been settled as early as 1620, 
 by the Dutch, many of whose living descendents reside 
 in the dwellings of their ancestors, and retain many of 
 their primitive habits. This place was called by the 
 Indians Schagh-nac-taa-da; signifying in their language, 
 '' beyond the pine plains.^' During the old French and 
 Indian wars, Feb. 9, 1690, it was taken by surprise in 
 the dead of night, was sacked and burnt by the Indians; 
 a great number of its inhabitants were massacred, and 
 others carried away into captivity. It was chartered as 
 a city in 1798; and in 1840, contained 6,784 inhabitants. 
 Few inland towns present a more thronged thoroughfare 
 than Schenectady. In addition to the Erie Canal, which 
 passes through the centre of the city, here diverge four 
 important railroads. Besides those already mentioned, 
 there are the Saratoga and Schenectady Railroad, run- 
 ning to Ballston Spa and to Saratoga Springs, 2H miles; 
 and the Utica and Schenectady Railroad, running to 
 Utica, 78 miles, and traversing the rich valley of the 
 Mohawk, parallel with the river and the Erie Canal. 
 
 The public building, dwellings, and stores in Schenec- 
 tady, present a plain appearance, perfectly in keeping 
 with the general character of the place. There are seve- 
 ral well kept hotels, affording every desirable accommo- 
 dation for the traveller, if inclined to tarry for business 
 or pleasure. The place derives its most extended cele- 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 127 
 
 brily from being the seat of Union College, situated on 
 the elevated ground about half a mile east of the com- 
 pact part of the city. This institution was incorporated 
 in 1795, and derived its name from the fact that its foun- 
 ders w^ere members of different denominations, and prof- 
 fered its advantages indiscriminately to the followers of 
 every faith. The buildings consist of one stone and two 
 brick edifices, containing accommodations for the president 
 and professors and their families^ 2 cha,pels, lecture and 
 library roomSj 4 halls lor the meeting of literary socie- 
 ties, and dormitories for students, of whom there are 
 usually from 200 to 300, from every section of the coun- 
 try. Attached to the institution, are about 250 acres of 
 land, appropriated in part to groves for recreation and 
 health. These are distingushed for beauty of feature 
 and situation, and present great capability for improve- 
 ment. The annual commencement takes place on the 
 fourth Wednesday of July, after which there is a vaca- 
 tion of six weeks. 
 
 In addition to railroad cars, commodious Canal Packet 
 Boats, run daily during the opening of the canal, be- 
 tween Schenectady and Utica, adistauce by this route 
 of 80 miles, affording a cheap and comfortable mode of 
 conveyance. 
 
 On leaving Schenectady for Saratoga Springs, and for 
 Utica, the railroad tracks cross the Erie canal and Mo- 
 hawk river by substantial bridges. If bound for the 
 Springs, you proceed northward through an interesting 
 region, passing on the way the village of Ballston Spa, 
 an old and celebrated place of resort, and the terminus of 
 the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad, which comes up 
 from Troy. If bound to the west, your route is on the 
 north side of the Mohawk, and your first halt is at the 
 village of 
 
123 WESTEKJr TOUR. 
 
 Amsterdam, 15 miles from Schenectady, and cobu 
 nected by a toll-bridge with Port Jackson on the oppcK 
 side of the river. Amsterdam contains about 1,700 inha> 
 tants, and in the immediate vicinity are annually quarried 
 large quantities of a fine quality of limestone, much used 
 for the construction of locks and other public worksv 
 Stages leave Amsterdam daily for the Fish House, on 
 the Sacondaga river, and for other places to the north in 
 Fulton county. One or two miles west of Amsterdam, 
 on the line of the railroad, are situated two of the old 
 stone mansions of the Johnson family, who figured large- 
 ly in the early history of this part of the country. 
 
 Schoharie Creek, a fine stream descending from the 
 high lands away to the south, and towards the head wa- 
 ters of the Delaware, enters the Mohawk in the midst of a 
 broad tract of rich alluvial land, at the distance of 22 miles 
 from Schenectady. On a sort of natural bastion in the 
 angle between the creek and the river, once stood Fort 
 Hnnter, famous in old colonial times, in the transactions 
 between the Indians and the white men, and its remains 
 are still traceable. 
 
 Fonda, a pleasant village of recent date, and the coun- 
 ty seat of Montgomery county, is 42 miles by railroad 
 from Albany. It stands on the north side of the Mo- 
 hawk, and opposite the village of Fultonville, on the 
 Erie canal. 
 
 Johnstown, the county seat of Fulton county, lies 4 
 miles north of the Mohawk river, and 45 miles from Al- 
 bany. This is an old and interesting place, containing 
 about 1,000 inhabitants. It was originally founded by 
 Sir William Johnson, whose residence, built of lime- 
 stone, is still standing about one mile west of the village. 
 A daily line of stages runs from Johnstown to Fonda 
 
WESTfiRJr fOUR. 129 
 
 connecting with the cars on the Utica and Schenectady 
 Raibroad. 
 
 To the north of Johnstown and some 30 miles distant; 
 lies the county of Hamilton, being for the most part an 
 unsettled wilderness of great extent. This region of 
 country abounds with lakes and streams richly stored 
 with trout and other fish of fine flavor, the most fre- 
 quented resorts are Lake Pleasant and Lake Piseco, 
 and the creeks and rivers in their neighborhood. 
 
 Spraker's Basin, on the line of the Erie canal is 36 
 miles from Schenectady. Here is located a thriving settle- 
 ment, containing a church and some 20 or 30 dwellings. 
 _ Palatine Bridge, 54 miles from Albany, connects 
 with the village of Canajoharie, on the south bank of 
 the Mohawk river, and the proposed terminus of the 
 Catskill and Canajoharie Railroad, a distance of 78 
 miles from the Hudson river at Catskill, by this route, 
 Canajoharie was incorporated in 1829, and now contains 
 about 1,300 inhabitants. The Erie canal passes through 
 the centre of the village. Stages leave this place daily, 
 during the summer season, for Sharon Sulphur Springs 
 and Cooperstown. 
 
 Sharon Springs, some 10 or 12 miles south of Cana- 
 joharie, and 45 miles west of Albany, via the Cherry- 
 VaUey turnpike, has become a place of considerable re- 
 sort for health or pleasure. The Pavilion is a large and 
 weU kept public house, afibrding a view, said to be equal 
 to that of the Catskill Mountain House. The rides in 
 the vicinity, the numerous villages, extensive views, 
 neighboring caves and romantic scenery, together with 
 the delightful fishing in Otsego Lake, are among the 
 many attractions offered to those seeking in the heat 
 of summer either health or pleasure. 
 
130 WESTERN TOUK. 
 
 Added to these advantages, the pure clear waters of these 
 springs, greatly resembling those of the White Sulphur 
 Springs of Virginia, have been proved to be highly effi. 
 cacious in Rheumatic, Cutaneous, and Dyspeptic com- 
 plaints, and in some respects possess medicinal and heal- 
 ing properties unsurpassed, and believed to be unequalled 
 in the United States. 
 
 From a certificate of a recent analysis made for the 
 
 proprietor of these Springs by one of the most eminent 
 
 chemists in this country, (Dr. Chilton of New- York,) the 
 
 following results have been obtained from one gallon of 
 
 the water: Grains. 
 
 Sulphate of Magnesia, 42.40 
 
 Sulphate of Lime, 111.62 
 
 Chloride of Sodium, 2-24 
 
 Chloride of Magnesium, 2 . 40 
 
 Hydrosulphuret of Sodium, ^ 
 
 Hydrosulphuret of Calcium, > 2.28 
 
 Vegetable extractive matter, ) 
 
 Totalgrains, 160.94 
 
 Sulphuretted Hydrogen Gas, , 16 cubic inches. 
 
 CooPERSTowN, although off from the great line of 
 travel, east and west, is well worthy of a visit. It is 66 
 miles west of the city of Albany, by stage route, and most 
 delightfully situated on a plain at the outlet of Otsego 
 Lake, this being the chief source of the Susquehanna 
 river. No inland village in the Union, probably excels 
 Cooperstown in elegance of situation and beauty of sur- 
 rounding scenery. Otsego Lake in the immediate vicini- 
 ty, is a most beautiful sheet of water, abounding in trout 
 and bass, celebrated for their peculiar flavor. 
 
 Richfield Springs, 69 miles from Albany, is situated 
 near the head of Canaderaga lake. Here is a celebrated 
 sulphur spring, which is much resorted to by invalids, 
 aad is noted for the cure of cutaneous disorders. 
 
WJESTEJRN TOUR. 131 
 
 Fort Plain, 57 miles from Albany by railroad route, 
 oa the south side of the Mohawk river^ is situated on the 
 line of the Erie canalj it was incorporated in 1834, and 
 now contains about 1,400 inhabitants. A daily line of 
 stages run from this place to Cherry-Valley, Coopers- 
 town, and Sharon Springs in Schoharie county. 
 
 Palatine Church, 60 miles from Albany, is sur- 
 rounded by a small settlement. 
 
 Saint Johnsville, 63 miles from Albany and 31 from 
 Utica, is situated on the north side of the Mohawk, on the 
 line of the Utica and Schenectady Railroad; it contains 
 about 300 inhabitants. 
 
 East Canada Creek, enters the Mohawk river 3 
 miles west of St. Johnsville. This stream for a consi- 
 derable distance forms the boundary line between the 
 counties of Montgomery and Herkimer. 
 
 Lillle Falls, Herkimer county, is situated on both 
 sides of the Mohawk, 73 miles west of the city of Alba- 
 ny. It was first incorporated in 1811, and amended in 
 1827; it now contains about 2,500 inhabitants, 300 dwel- 
 ling houses, 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 
 Methodist, and 1 Roman Catholic church ; a large and 
 beautiful academy building, a banking house, 5 hotels, 
 and taverns, 30 stores and groceries, 2 printing offices, 
 together with almost every other kind of mechanic work 
 shops; and the village is rapidly improving in population 
 and business. The Mohawk river here falls, in the dis- 
 tance of half a mile, about 42 feet affording hydraulic 
 power to a large extent, only a small portion of which is 
 at present occupied for manufacturing purposes. There 
 are now erected and in operation, 1 extensive woollen fac- 
 tory, with new and improved machinery, 3 paper mills, 
 3 flouring mills, 2 saw mills, 1 plaster mill, 1 trip ham- 
 
132 WESTERN TOtTR. 
 
 mer works, 4 furnaces, 1 machine shop, 1 distillery, 1 
 brewery, 1 sash factory, and 1 fulling mill. 
 
 This place and vicinity is justly celebrated for its wild 
 and romantic scenery, and is much resorted to by the 
 admirers of nature and art. The gap between the moun> 
 tains, through which the river has apparently worn for 
 itself a passage, though confined, is still of breadth 
 sufficient to afford room for a large town. The rock at 
 the river bed is primitive granitic gneiss, very hard but is 
 readily quarried and broken into building stone. Above 
 this, on the mountain sides, lies the sand rock, and still 
 higher, at the top, are extensive beds of blue limestone; 
 great quantities of which have been used in constructing 
 the locks, and for building, for coping, and for flagging. 
 Through this gorge passes the Erie canal, on the south 
 side of the river; and the Utica and Schenectady Railroad 
 and the Mohawk turnpike on the north. It is the gate- 
 way through which the product and travel of the vast 
 west must of necessity pass to tide -v^ter. An aqueduct 
 crosses the Mohawk at this place, communicating with a 
 feeder on the north side of the river, and is a fine specimen 
 of masonry. A daily line of stages runs between Little 
 Falls and Trenton Falls, and several mail routes north 
 and south branch off at this place. 
 
 West Canada Ckeek, enters the Mohawk river, 5 
 miles west of Little Falls. Its whole length is about 60 
 miles from its sources, in the wilds of Hamilton county. 
 It is a romantic and lovely stream, and abounds with fine 
 trout. About 20 miles from its mouth are situated Tren- 
 ton Falls, being on the border of the town of the same 
 name in Oneida county. 
 
 The village of Herkimer, 79 miles from Albany, is 
 handsomely situated in the valley of the Mohawk on the 
 north side of the river. It was incorporated in 1807, and 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 133 
 
 now contains about 800 inhabitants, 120 dwelling houses, 
 a new brick court-house, and stone jail, built on an im- 
 proved model, combining security and comfort to the 
 prisoners ; a fire- proof clerk's office ; an incorporated 
 academy in a flourishing condition ; 1 banking house I 
 1 German Reformed, and 1 Methodist church; 6 hotels 
 and taverns; 10 stores and groceries, and I printing office. 
 Here is a flouring mill containing four run of stone, situ- 
 ated on a hydraulic canal, which is fed by the waters of 
 the West Canada creek; it is about three miles in length 
 and has two falls, one of 22 feet, and another of 15 feet, 
 aflfording water power sufficient to propel upwards of 100 
 run of stone, most of which is still unoccupied, and is one of 
 the most durable and available water powers in the 
 state. 
 
 The village of Mohawk, situated on the south side of 
 the river, one mile west of Herkimer, is a thriving place 
 of business, through which passes the Erie canal. 
 
 The village of Frankfort, 9 miles east of Utiea, is 
 also situated on the line of the Erie canal, and contains 
 about 500 inhabitants. 
 
 The City of Utica, situated on the south side of 
 the Mohawk river, is on the site of old Fort Schuyler, 93 
 miles west of the city of Albany. It was chartered ia 
 1832, and is now divided into four wards, and governed 
 by a common council, consisting of a mayor and 12 alder- 
 men. In 1840, it contained 12,810 inhabitants, about 
 1,600 dwelling houses, 3 Presbyterian churches, 1 Re- 
 formed Dutch, 2 Episcopal, 4 Baptist, 3 Methodist, 2 
 Catholic, 1 Universalist, and 1 African church, and 1 
 Friends meeting house ; 1 Protestant and 1 Catholic 
 orphan asylum ; 1 public marl et, 4 banking houses and 1 
 saving's bank ; 1 mutual insurance company; 2 incorpo- 
 rated academies, one for males and the other for females; 
 
134 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 a museum located in the Exchange building; 1 public 
 garden; 15 hotels and taverns, besides several extensive 
 private boarding houses. The July term of the supreme 
 court of the state, the several terms of the vice-chancel- 
 lor's court for the fifth circuit, one term of the United 
 States district court for the northern district of the state 
 of New-York, and one term of the circuit court for the 
 county of Oneida, are holden in Utica. The office of one 
 of the clerk's of the supreme court, that of the clerk in 
 chancery for the fifth circuit, of the clerk of the United 
 States court, and of the clerk of the county of Oneida, 
 are located in this city. 
 
 The New- York State Lunatic ./2s?/ZMm,situated on some- 
 what elevated ground, about one mile west of the centre of 
 Utica, is a noble and imposing structure. The finished 
 building can accommodate upwards of 200 patients . T hi s 
 humane establishment is calculated for the. reception of 
 all insane persons in the state, whose friends or county 
 authorities may apply in their behalf. "The probable ex- 
 penditure of the state, will be above half a million of 
 dollars^ to complete the design of the four buildings, as 
 contemplated by the commissioners appointed by the 
 state authorities. There were, according to the census of 
 1840, 3,973 lunatics in the state. 
 
 In addition to the Erie canal which passes through the 
 centre of the city, the Chenango canal commences at 
 this place, and terminates at Binghamton, in Broome 
 county; the Utica and Schenectady Railroad and the S}Ta- 
 cuse and Utica Railroad unite at this point, forming two 
 of the principal links in the great chain of railroads, 
 which are completed between the cities of Boston, Al- 
 bany and Bulfalo. 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 135 
 
 The city of Utica is surrounded by one of the finest and 
 richest agricultural and manufacturing districts in the 
 Union, and is a wealthy and flourishing place of business. 
 The Erie canal through the city has been widened to 70 
 and deepened to 7 feet, and presents a fine appearance 
 from the several beautiful and well constructed bridges 
 which span its breadth. Before the canal was widened, 
 the several bridges were miserable looking structures, so 
 low that boats could but just pass beneath. But now 
 they are raised some six feet higher than formerly, and 
 are really ornaments to the city. 
 
 The principal hotels in Utica are chiefly situated on 
 Genesee- street, of which the following are the most 
 noted ,• Bagg's Hotel or Bleecker House ; American Hotel; 
 Franklin House ; National Temperance House, and the 
 McGregor House on Whitesboro'-street. 
 
 Several daily lines of stages run from Utica, north and 
 south. The following are the arrangements for 1844, or 
 during the summ.er months : 
 
 1. An accommodation coach leaves Utica daily, (Sun- 
 day's excepted,) at'' 8 o'clock, A. M. for Denmark, 
 62 miles north, where passengers can remain over night 
 and take a stage next morning for Watertown and Sackett's 
 Harbor, or for Ogdensburgh. 
 
 2. The U. S. mail coach leaves daily at H P. M. or on 
 the arrival of the cars from Albany, and proceeds directly 
 through to Watertown and Sackett's Harbor, and via Den- 
 mark to Ogdensburgh. 
 
 3. A stage leaves at l^P. M. for Binghamton, 94 miles, 
 and connects with stages running to Owego and Mon- 
 trose, Pennsylvania. 
 
 4. A stage leaves daily, (Sunday's excepted,) at 8 
 A.M., for Hamilton, connecting with a canal packet 
 boat for Binghamton. 
 
 5. A stage leaves daily for Cooperstown, 44 miles. 
 
136 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 6. A stage leaves every Monday, Wednesday and Fri- 
 day, at U P. M. for Ithaca, 96 miles. 
 
 7. A stage leaves daily, (Sundays excepted,) at 8 A. 
 M. for New Berlin, and connecting with a stage running 
 to Mt. Pleasant, Pennsylvania, 
 
 8. A stage leaves daily, (Sundays excepted,) at 1:|P. 
 M. for Augusta, via Clinton, 
 
 Extras can at all times be obtained by those who wish 
 to visit Trenton Falls, or any of the places off the regu- 
 lar stage routes. 
 
 Trenton Falls, 18 miles northeast from Utica, and 
 on the West Canada creek, in the town of Trenton, are 
 among the most remarkable scenes in our country. The 
 wild, secluded, and primeval aspect of the place serves 
 greatly to heighten the effect of the striking spectacle pre- 
 sented by the stream j and the whole is so deeply embo- 
 somed in the primitive forest that no token of the long 
 and deep gorge through which the waters rush, is visible 
 till you are on its very brink. Within a distance of about 
 2 miles there are no less than six distinct cascades, inter- 
 changing with rapids as picturesque as the fallsithem- 
 selves. 
 
 The first fall, beginning up stream, is called the Upper 
 Falls, and has a descent of about 20 feet. The river 
 then dashes along its rocky bed about a mile, with a des- 
 cent, in that distance, of about 20 feet more, to the second 
 falls, called The Cascades. A little further down you 
 come to the third fall, called the Mill-dam, from theregu- 
 larity and smoothness of the ledge of rock, about 20 feet 
 high, over which the waters pour. About 40 rods more, 
 bring you to the High Falls. At this place the volume 
 of the stream is separated, by rifts in the rock, into three 
 distinct cataracts, having a perpendicular pitch of more 
 than 100 feet. Here the chasm has become very deep, 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 137 
 
 and the high wooded banks and cliffs of bare rock on each 
 side combine with the cataracts to make a spectacle of 
 wild and savage grandeur. About 70 rods further down 
 you come to the fifth, or Sherman's Falls, having a 
 descent of nearly 40 feet, from the foot of which the 
 stream pours along a less rapidly descending bed to the 
 sixth, or Conrad's Falls, a pitch of some 15 or 20 feet, 
 and soon after, the river, escaping from the deep and 
 dark ravine, flows onward between more sunny banks 
 and through a softer landscape. 
 
 The chasm for the whole distance, is cut through a 
 vast mass of lime-rock, which abounds with organic re- 
 mains ; and the path which the tourist must take, if he 
 would obtain any adequate conceptions of the scene, is 
 along a narrow shelf of rock near the foot of the high 
 and in some places overhanging precipice, and on the 
 immediate verge of rushing waters. This shelf is so 
 narrow in several places, and so perilous, that it has 
 been found necessary to guard it with a chain supported 
 by iron standards let into the rock j though sad to 
 say, this safe-guard was not furnished, till two inter- 
 esting young females had been lost in the terrible flood. 
 The entire descent of the stream, from the top of the 
 Upper Falls to the foot of Conrad's Falls, is stated at 
 312 feet. 
 
 The village of Whitesborough, 3| miles westof IJtica, 
 is situated on the south side of the Mohawk river. This 
 is one of the oldest white settlements in this section of 
 country, and has long been celebrated as a pleasant and 
 attractive place of residence, being surrounded by fertile 
 lands settled by an intelligent and wealthy communi- 
 ty. It was incorporated in 1813, and now contains about 
 1,800 inhabitants, many of whom are engaged in manu- 
 facturing pursuits ,• and it embraces within its corporate 
 
 K 
 
138 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 limits, a settlement called Yorkville, located on Sada- 
 quada creek, one of the most valuable mill streams in 
 the state. 
 
 Oriskany, 7 miles west of Utica, is a large manufac- 
 turing place, situated on the Oriskany creek, near its 
 junction with the Mohawk river. It contains about 1,200 
 inhabitants, 200 dwelling houses, 2 churches, 4 public 
 houses, 4 stores, and 2 large factory buildings, belonging 
 to the " Oriskany Manufacturing Company," which an- 
 nually manufacture into broad cloths and cassimeres about 
 200,000 pounds of wool, giving employment to about 150 
 men, women and children. The buildings, grounds and 
 machinery of this establishment cost $200,000. 
 
 It was here that the battle of Oriskany was fought, one 
 of the bloodiest, in proportion to the numbers engaged, 
 during the whole war of our Revolution, and in which 
 Gen. Herkimer, of German Flats, lost his life. He was 
 on his way with about 800 of the militia of the Mohawk 
 Valley, to the relief of the garrison at Fort Stanwix, when 
 at Oriskany, a deadly fire was opened on him and his 
 corps, by a body of British regulars, tories, and Indians, 
 from an ambuscade in a narrow ravine. The Americans 
 were completely surrounded, but the gallant Herkimer 
 and his brave compatriots maintained the fight for near 
 six hours. Herkimer received his mortal wounds early 
 in the fight, but he kept the field, seated on his saddle 
 placed on a hillock, which gave him a view of the con- 
 test, and from which he calmlj'- issued his orders to the 
 last. This was on the 6th of August, 1777. 
 
 The village of Rome, 14 miles west of Utica, is situa- 
 near the head waters of the Mohawk, and on the line of 
 the Erie canal, where it is intersected by the Black River 
 Canal Feeder. It was incorporated in 1819, and is a 
 half-shire town with Whitesboro' for Oneida county ; it 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 130 
 
 'contains about 2,500 inhabitants, 350 dwelling houses ; 
 a court-house and jail; 6 churches^ 1 bank, 25 stores, be* 
 sides 1 cotton factory, 1 ftaiiring mill, 1 saw mill, 1 brew* 
 '«ry and 1 blast furnace. Here is located a United States 
 arsenal ; and a number of work shops. This place stands 
 on the site of old Fort Stanwix, which was an important 
 military post during the Revolutionary and French wars. 
 Owing to its natural and artificial advantages, this village 
 is fast increasing in wealth and numbers. 
 
 Oneida Depot, 27 miles west of Utica, and 26 from 
 Syracuse, is a new settlement where the train of passen- 
 ger cars usually stops some 10 or 15 minutes. One or two 
 miles south of the depot is tlie incorporated village of 
 Oneida Castle, near which resides a remnant of the 
 -Oneida tribe of Indians numbering about 300 souls. 
 
 Wampsville, 3 miles further west, is a small settle- 
 ment through which passes the Syracuse and Utica rail- 
 road, 
 
 Canastota, 32 2 west of Utica by railroad, and on the 
 Erie canal, was incorporated in 1835, and now contains 
 about 800 inhabitants. 
 
 Chittenango, 39 miles west of Utica, by railroad, 
 is situated one mile south of the Erie canal, with 
 which it is connected by a side-cut. It contains about 
 1,000 inhabitants, 180 dwelling houses, 3 churches, 3 
 taverns, 10 stores, 1 woollen factory, 1 flouring mill, 
 and 2 large factories for the manufacture of water 
 lime, which is found in this vicinity and is extensively 
 used on the different public works of the state and for 
 ether purposes. There is a sulphur spring one mile 
 south of the village of Chittenango, of which the fol- 
 lowing is an analysis, by Dr. Lewis C. Beck. 
 
 Temperature 49^ F.; specific gravity 1.00341. 
 
140 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 The following is the composition of a pint of the 
 water : 
 
 Grains. 
 
 Carbonate of lime, 0.88 
 
 Sulphate of Soda, 1 . 66 
 
 Sulphate of lime and magnesia, 12.75 
 
 Chloride of Sodium, 0. 14 
 
 Organic matter, traces. 
 
 Total, 15.43 
 
 Besides sulphuretted hydrogen, the water contains a 
 small portion of carbonic acid gas. 
 
 The village of Cazenovia, is situated on the Cherry- 
 Valley turnpike, about 10 miles south of the Erie canal, 
 118 miles from Albany. It was incorporated in 1810, and 
 now contains about 1,600 inhabitants, 250 dwelling 
 houses, and 4 churches of different denominations. Here 
 is situated the Oneida Seminary, a theological institution 
 sustained by the Methodist denomination of this and the 
 neighboring states. 
 
 Cazenovia Lake, is a small but beautiful sheet of 
 water, in the town of the same name. It is 4 miles long 
 by 1 mile in width, abounding in different kinds of fish. 
 
 The village of Manlius, a few miles south of the 
 Erie canal, is a thriving place. Manlius Centre is on the 
 Erie canal, near the line of the Syracuse and Utica rail- 
 road. 
 
 Syracuse, 53 miles west of Utica, and 146 from Albany 
 by railroad route, is situated on the line of the Erie canal, 
 where it unites with the Oswego canal, one mile and a half 
 south of Onondaga lake. It was incorporated in 1825, 
 and now contains about 7,500 inhabitants, 900 dwelling 
 houses, 8 churches of different denominations, 10 hotels 
 and taverns, and an incorporated academy, 2 banking 
 houses a court-house and jail and county clerk's office. 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 141 
 
 Syracuse and its vicinity,, is celebrated for the immense 
 quantity of salt which is annually made from the brine 
 springs belonging to the state. No town in Western 
 New- York, is no more rapidly increasing in wealth and 
 numbers than this place. 
 
 The traveller on going west from Sja-acuse to Roches- 
 ter, has the choice of three modes of conveyance, viz: 
 either by railroad, 105 miles, by canal packet, distance 
 99 miles ; or by canal packet to Oswego and thence by 
 steamboat to the mouth of the Genesee river, distance 
 104 miles. 
 
 In addition to the Erie canal, which passes through the 
 centre of Syracuse, the Oswego canal commences at this 
 point and terminates at the village of Oswego, connect- 
 ing the Erie canal with Lake Ontario. The Syracuse 
 and Utica and Auburn and Syracuse Railroads, unite in 
 this place, opening a direct communication east and v/est, 
 and a channel of trade with all the places on Lake Onta- 
 rio and Canada. 
 
 Geddes is an incorporated village 2 miles west of Syra- 
 cuse, on the Erie canal, and within the bounds of the 
 Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation. The most consider- 
 able business of the place is the manufacture of salt. 
 
 The village of Salina, in the town of the same name, 
 is situated near the east end of Onondaga lake, 2 miles 
 north of Syracuse. It was incorporated in 1824, and 
 now contains about 2,600 inhabitants. Salina has long 
 been celebrated for its valuable saline springs. Here are 
 now yearly manufactured large quantities of fine salt, 
 which finds a ready market in this and the western states, 
 and Canada. 
 
 Liverpool is another village principally engaged in 
 the manufacture of salt. It stands near the northeasts 
 
142 WESTERN T0I7R. 
 
 erly shore of Onondaga lake, and on the Oswego canal', 
 about 5 miles from Syracuse. It contains about 1,000 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Syracuse', Salina, Liverpool, and Geddes, are all inclu- 
 ded in the town of Salina and within the limits of the 
 Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation; and though the 
 original Reservation included a much larger extent of 
 ^urface than is occupied by these villages, yet these are 
 the only portions of it within which the making of salt 
 is carried on ; the state having sold to private citizens the 
 whole of the Reservation not included within these vil- 
 lages, as well as a very large part of what is included 
 within their bounds. 
 
 Salt was first made on this tract at Salt Point, near the 
 margin of Onondaga lake and within the bounds of Sa- 
 lina village. The manufacture, in very trifling quanti- 
 ties, at that point, was carried on by the Indians prior to 
 the appearance of any white man among them, as it 
 was by the white men also, at a very early period of their 
 settlement in that vicinity. The earliest systematic ar- 
 rangments, so far as records show, for making salt, to 
 any important extent, at that place, date as far back as 
 1787, when works were erected which produced 10 bush- 
 els daily — a very insignificant quantity when compared 
 with the present extent and productiveness of the works 
 on the Reservation. 
 
 The total quantities made in the several villages men- 
 tioned, and the aggregate during the year 1843, is shown 
 in the following statement made up from the last annual 
 report of the State Superintendent and Inspector to the 
 Legislature pursuant to law. 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 143 
 
 Total quantity of salt, fine and coarse, inspected on the 
 Onondaga Salt Springs Reservation, in the year 1843. 
 Place. BTzshels. 
 
 Salina, 1,203,138.00 
 
 Syracuse, 973,821.32 
 
 Liverpool, 675,206.18 
 
 Geddes, 275,334. 55 
 
 Aggregate, 3,127,500. 05 
 
 Of this aggregate, 2,732,863.43 bushels were of the 
 kind called ^ne salt ; 318,105.34 bushels were of coarse 
 salt; and 76,531.28 bushels were of the description 
 called cZairy salt. 
 
 The^^ne salt, which is so called from the small size of 
 its crystals, is produced by the agency chiefly of artificial 
 heat, and the process of evaporation is carried on by 
 boiling the brine in large iron kettles. The coarse salt is 
 produced exclusively by evaporation in the open air. It 
 is sometimes termed solar salt, and the crystals are large. 
 This salt is the purest muriate of soda known to com- 
 merce. The dairy salt is so called from the particularly 
 neat and convenient manner in which it is prepared and 
 boxed for use in dairies. 
 
 The state of New- York, as the proprietor of these 
 salines, receives a duty of six cents a bushels on all the 
 salt inspected on the Reservation; and the works are 
 erected under written leases of the ground for specific 
 terms of years, for making the fine salt ; and under li- 
 censes somewhat of the character of conditional grants, 
 for making the coarse salt ; but both are gratuitous, the 
 duty being substituted for rent. 
 
144 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 The village of Oswego, 38 miles north of Syracuse, 
 hy canal route, is situated on both sides of the Oswego 
 river, at its entrance into Lake Ontario. It is a port of 
 entry, was incorporated in 1828, and now contains about 
 4,500 inhabitants, 500 dwelling houses, 2 Presbyterian, 1 
 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist and 1 Catholic church, 
 besides a Bethel congregation, a custom-house, a court- 
 house, 1 banking house, an insurance company, an in- 
 corporated academy and a female seminary. The num- 
 ber of vessels which arrive and depart from this port an- 
 nually is very great,- there being owned at this place 
 alone 6 steainboats and 70 schooners, averaging about 
 100 tons burthen, besides a large number of canal boats. 
 The harbor is capacious and safe, being protected by two 
 large stone piers, constructed by the United States Go- 
 vernment. On the end of the west pier is situated a light- 
 house ; about half a mile above is a bridge extending 
 across the river, 600 feet in length. An extensive for- 
 warding business is done at this place by means of lake, 
 river and canal navigation ; daily lines of steamboats 
 for the conveyance of passengers run between Oswego, 
 Sackett's Harbor, Kingston, and Ogdensburgb, on the 
 north ; and Rochester, Toronto, and Lewiston, on the 
 west. Connected with the above line of steamboats are 
 railroads cars, canal packet lines and stages. During 
 the winter months daily lines of stages run from Oswego 
 northeast to Sackett's Harbor, Watertown and Ogdens- 
 burgb, east to Rome and Utica, south to Syracuse, south- 
 west to Auburn, and west to Rochester. 
 
 At Oswego there are several well kept public houses. 
 The Oswego House, on the east side of the river, and 
 the United States Hotel, and the Welland House, on the 
 west side, are the most frequented by pleasure travellers. 
 
 The promonotory on the east side of the Oswego river, 
 at its mouth, has been ceded to (he United States Govern- 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 145 
 
 raent, and on it is situated old Fort Ontario, which has 
 recently undergone extensive repairs, affording protection 
 to the harbor and village of Osv^ego, A w^riter makes 
 the following remarks in relation to this important mili- 
 tary position : — •' This ancient work is within the pre- 
 cints of our village, situated on the right bank of the 
 Oswego river at the point of confluence with Lake Ontario. 
 It was one of the old northwestern posts, the continued 
 occupation ot which by the British, after the peace of '83, 
 caused so much indignation on the part of the Govern- 
 ment and the people of the United States, during the 
 period of the "Washington administration. It was evacu- 
 ated by Col. Grant, in 1795. The works, including the 
 glacis and outposts, were extensive, and very considera- 
 ble remains of them exist. Old Fort Oswego, which 
 was situated on the left bank of the river, immediately 
 opposite, is completely levelled and occupied by ware- 
 houses and manufactories, a ship yard and marine rail- 
 way. It is a matter of much satisfaction that the care 
 of the Government is at last extended to Fort Ontario. 
 In connexion with the navigation of Lake Ontario and 
 the communications with the interior of the state and the 
 Hudson river, it is probably the most important military 
 position on the northern frontier." 
 
 Sackett's Harbor, about 50 miles north of Oswego, 
 and distant 35 miles from Kingston, Canada; possesses 
 one of the best and most secure harbors on Lake Onta- 
 rio, being situated on Black River Bay , 12 miles below 
 the village of Watertown. It was an important naval 
 and military station during the last war with Great Bri- 
 tain, where now lays a large vessel under cover. Madi- 
 son Barracks, garrisoned by United States troops, is 
 handsomely situated near the landing, being in full view 
 from the water. 
 
146 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 The village was incorporated in 1814, and now con- 
 tains about 2,000 inhabitants. An hydraulic canal ex- 
 tends from Black river near Watertown, to this place, on 
 which are erected several mills and manufacturing estab- 
 lishments. 
 
 Watertown, is advantageously situated on the south 
 side of Black river, a few miles above its entrance into 
 Black river bay. The water power of this place is very 
 great, and there is now a large amount of capital invest- 
 ed in mills and in diiferent kinds of manufacturing estab- 
 lishments, where hydraulic power is used. The village 
 was incorporated in 1831, and now contains about 4,000 
 inhabitants ; a court-house and jail ; a state arsenal ; 7 
 churches ; 3 banking houses ; 8 hotels and taverns, and 
 50 or 60 stores of different kinds. Stages leave Water- 
 town daily for Utica, 82 miles distant. 
 
 Lake Ontario, the most eastern of the great chain of 
 Lakes of North America, is 180 miles in length, and 60 
 miles in extreme breadth ; being about 485 miles in cir- 
 cumference. The boundary line between the British Pos- 
 sessions and the United States runs through the middle 
 of the lake and so continues down the St. Lawrence to the 
 45th degree of north latitude, where the river enters 
 Canada. 
 
 This lake is navigable throughout its whole extent for 
 vessels of the largest size J audit is said to be, in some 
 places upwards of 600 feet in depth. Its surface is eleva- 
 ted 231 feet above the Atlantic, and lies 334 feet lower 
 than Lake Erie, with which it is connected by the Niaga- 
 ra river and by the Welland canal in Canada. It has also 
 been proposed to construct a ship canal on the American 
 side. The trade of Lake Ontario, from the great exten* 
 
WESTERN TOUB. 147 
 
 of inhabited country surrounding it, is very considerable, 
 and is rapidly increasing. Many sail vessels and spkn- 
 did steamers are employed in navigating its w^aters, 
 which owing to its great depth never freezes, except at the 
 sides, where the water is shallow ; so that its navigation 
 is not so effectually interrupted by ice as some of the 
 other large lakes. The most important places on the 
 Canadian or British side of Lake Ontario^ are Kingston, 
 Coburg, Toronto, Hamilton, and Niagara j on the Ame- 
 rican shor.e, the villages of Sackett's Harbor, Oswe- 
 go, and Charlotte or Port Genesee. This lake is con- 
 nected with the na,vigable waters of the Hudson river, 
 by means of the Oswego and Erie canals. It receives 
 numerous streams^ both from the Canadian and the Ame- 
 rican sides, and abounds with a grent variety of fish of 
 an excellent flavor. The bass and salmon in particular^ 
 have a high reputation and are taken in large quantities. 
 The passage across Lake Ontario in calm weather is 
 most agreeable. At times both shores are hidden from 
 view, when nothing can be seen from the deck of the vessel 
 but an abyss of waters. The refractions which some- 
 times take place in summer, are exceedingly beautiful. 
 Islands and trees appear turned upside down ; and the 
 white surf of the beach, translated aloft, seems like the 
 smoke of artillery blazing away from a fort. The Bay 
 of Quinte, on the north shore, in Canada, is a beautiful- 
 ly winding and picturesque sheet of water. It is navi- 
 gable for about 80 miles, and on its borders, are several 
 flourishing settlements. 
 
148 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 SUMMER ARRANGEMENT, FOR 1844. 
 
 Packet Boats running between Syracuse and Oswego, 
 
 Distance 38 miles. — Usual time 7 hours. — Fare $1.50. 
 
 Fare through from Syracuse to Niagara Falls by this 
 
 route $4.50, (including meals,) by Canal Packet Boat 
 
 and Steamboat. 
 
 Packet boat Rochester, Capt. Wm. D. Stewart. 
 " " Liberty. '' Francis Rood. 
 
 The above boats form two daily lines, leaving both 
 places at 7^ A. M. and 7 P. M.j connecting with steam- 
 boats on Lake Ontario. 
 
 LAKE ONTARIO ROUTE. 
 
 Daily Line (Sundays excepted.) between Lewiston and 
 Ogdensburgh. 
 
 Steamer Lady or the Lake, Capt. J. J. Taylor, 
 " Rochester, " H. N. Throop, 
 
 '' St. Laavrence, '^ J. Van Cleve, 
 
 «' Oneida, '' R. F Child, 
 
 Will run daily, (Sundays excepted,) between Lewiston 
 and Ogdensburgh, touching at the intermediate Canadi- 
 an and American ports, as follows : 
 
 D0WNWAR,DS. 
 
 Leave Lewiston, daily, except Saturdays, at 3 P. M. 
 
 '' Rochester, " " " at 11 P. M. 
 
 *' Oswego, " except Sundays, at 8 A. M. 
 
 " Sacketfs Harbor, '' " at 12 M. 
 
 " Kingston, " '' at 4 P. M. 
 
 Arriving at Ogdensburgh in the afternoon in time for 
 the daily steamboats for Montreal, which run in connec- 
 tion with this line. 
 
 UPWARDS. 
 
 Leave Ogdensburgh, daily, except Sundays, at 8 A. M- 
 ^ ^ ' " a a at 5 P.M. 
 
 '' '' at 9 P.M. 
 
 " '' at 11 A.M. 
 
 '' '' at 6 P.M. 
 
 ate A. M. 
 
 Kingston, 
 SacketVs Harbor, 
 Oswego, 
 Rochester, 
 Toronto, 
 
 u 
 
 And arrive at Lewiston at 10 o'clock A. M. in time for 
 the cars for Niagara Falls and Buffalo. 
 
WESTERNT TUUR. 
 
 149 
 
 Travellers taking this route west, will have an oppor- 
 tunity to view by daylight Queenston Heights, and 
 Brock's Monument 5 the beautiful scenery of the Niagara, 
 and at its mouth the British and American Forts i on 
 going north from Oswego to Sackett's Harbor, Kingston 
 and Ogdensburgh, affords the interesting view of the St. 
 Lawrence with its Thousand Islands. 
 
 • LIST OF AMERICAN STEAMBOATS, 
 Built and running on Lake Ontario, since their first introduction in 1816. 
 
 When 
 
 
 
 
 . : — . ;_«; 
 
 built. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Tons 
 
 Wlierc built. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 1816 
 
 Ontario, - - - - 
 
 400 
 
 Sackett's Hai-bor, 
 
 Broken up. 
 
 1818 
 
 Sophia, - - - - 
 
 75 
 
 u « 
 
 Broken up. 
 
 1823 
 
 Martiia Ogden, - 
 
 150 
 
 (( u 
 
 Lost in 1832. 
 
 1830 
 
 Brownville, - - 
 
 150 
 
 Brownville, - - 
 
 Ch'ed to Wm. Avery. 
 
 1831 
 
 Charles Carroll, - 
 
 100 
 
 Sackett's Harbor, 
 
 Changed to America- 
 
 1831 
 
 Paul Pry, - - - 
 
 50 
 
 Ogdensburgh, - 
 
 Broken up. 
 
 1832 
 
 United States, 
 
 450 
 
 u 
 
 Laid up. 
 
 1833 
 
 Black Hawk,' - 
 
 200 
 
 French Creek, - 
 
 Laid up. 
 
 1834 
 
 Oswego, - - - 
 
 400 
 
 Oswego, - - - 
 
 Used as a timber ship. 
 
 1836 
 
 Oneida, - - - - 
 
 300 
 
 Oswego, - - - 
 
 Lewistonto Ogdens'h. 
 
 1837 
 
 Telegi-aph, - - 
 
 200 
 
 Dexter, - - - 
 
 Oswego to Kingston. 
 
 1838 
 
 John Marshall, - 
 
 60 
 
 Lake Erie, - - 
 
 Runs fr. S. Harbor. 
 
 1839 
 
 St. Lawrence," - 
 
 450 
 
 Oswego, - - - 
 
 Lewiston to Ogdens'h 
 
 1839 
 
 Express, - - - 
 
 1.50 
 
 Poultneyville, 
 
 Rochester to Kingston 
 
 1.S41 
 
 Georj^e Clinton, - 
 
 100 
 
 Oswego, - - . 
 
 U (C 
 
 1.841 
 
 President, - - - 
 
 60 
 
 "... 
 
 Runs from Oswego. 
 
 1842 
 
 I.ady oftheLake, 
 
 425 
 
 " 
 
 Lewiston to Ogdens'h. 
 
 1843 
 
 Rochester, - - - 
 
 400 
 
 u 
 
 a a 
 
 ERICSSON PROPELLERS. 
 
 1841 
 
 Vandalia, - - - 
 
 1.50 Oswego, - - - 
 
 Oswego to Chicago. 
 
 1842 
 
 Chicago, - - - 
 
 150 " - - - 
 
 a (( 
 
 1842 
 
 Oswego, - - - 
 
 150 « - ^ - 
 
 u u 
 
 1843 1 New- York, - - 
 
 150 " - - - 
 
 li (C 
 
 ' Now named DolphixY, and owned in Canada. 
 
150 
 
 WESTERN TOtJn. 
 
 LIST OF BRITISH STEAMBOATS, BUILT AND RUNNING OTN 
 LAKE ONTARIO. 
 
 Wlieu 
 built. 
 
 1816 
 1817 
 1819 
 1824 
 1824 
 1825 
 1825 
 1828 
 1829 
 iS30 
 
 lasi 
 
 1832 
 1832 
 1832 
 1S33 
 1833 
 1833 
 1833 
 1834 
 1834 
 1835 
 1837 
 1837 
 1838 
 1839 
 1839 
 1840 
 1840 
 1840 
 1840 
 1840 
 1841 
 1841 
 1841 
 1841 
 1842 
 1842 
 1842 
 1843 
 
 Name. 
 
 Tons 
 
 Frontenac, - - - 
 Charlotte, - - - 
 Dalhoasie, - - - 
 Toronto, ^ - - 
 Queenston, - - 
 Canarla, - - - 
 Niagara, - - - 
 Alciope, - - - 
 Sir James Kempt, 
 Great Britain, - - 
 Iroquois, - - - 
 John By, - - - 
 William 4th, - - 
 Tran.?it, - - - - 
 Britannia, - - - 
 Coburg, - - - 
 Kingston, • - - 
 Brockville, - - - 
 Com. Barrie, - - 
 Union, .... 
 St. George, - - - 
 Sir Robert Peel, 
 Gore, .... 
 Queen Victoria, - 
 Henry Gildersleve 
 Oatai'io," - - - 
 Highlander, - - 
 Albion, . - - - 
 America, - - - 
 City of Toronto, 
 Sovereign,! - - 
 Princess Royal, 
 Canada, - - . . 
 Frontenac, - - - 
 Sir Charles, - - 
 Prince of Wales, 
 Admiral, - - - 
 Ch. Jus. Robinson 
 Eclipse, - - - - 
 
 BRITISH 
 
 700 
 150 
 350 
 200 
 350 
 250 
 400 
 4.50 
 200 
 700 
 100 
 100 
 450 
 350 
 200 
 500 
 200 
 3.50 
 275 
 300 
 400 
 350 
 200 
 200 
 250 
 300 
 300 
 200 
 300 
 509 
 475 
 500 
 4.50 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 400 
 400 
 400 
 
 Where built. 
 
 Kingston, - - 
 
 Prescott, - . 
 
 Toronto, • - 
 
 Queenston, - 
 
 Toronto, - . 
 Brockville, 
 
 Niagara, . . 
 
 Kingston, . . 
 
 Prescott, - - 
 u 
 
 Kingston, - . 
 
 Gananoque, • 
 
 Oakville, - . 
 
 Kingston, - - 
 
 Coburg, - - 
 
 Kingston, - - 
 
 Brockville, - 
 
 Kingston, - - 
 
 Oakville, - - 
 
 Kingston, - . 
 
 Brockville, - 
 
 Niagara, - - 
 
 Kingston, - . 
 
 Niagara, - - 
 Coteau du Lac, 
 BrockviUe, 
 
 Niagara, - - 
 
 Prescott, - 
 Kingston, - 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 \iagara, 
 
 t( 
 
 Broken up. 
 Broken up. 
 Broken up. 
 Broken up. 
 j Broken up. 
 Broken np. 
 Broken up. 
 Broken up. 
 Broken up. 
 Broken up. 
 Broken up. 
 Broken up. 
 Tow boat. 
 
 Toronto to LewistoS. 
 Laid up. 
 Laid up. 
 Bay of Quinte. 
 Bay of Quinte. 
 Lost in 1842. 
 Kingston to Hamilton. 
 Laid up. 
 
 Destroyed in 1838. 
 Cobourg to Rochester. 
 Hamilton to Lewistoii. 
 King'n to Cot. du Lac. 
 
 King'n to Cot. du Lac 
 Bay of Quinte. 
 Toronto to Rochester, 
 Kingston to Toronto. 
 Kingston to Toronto. 
 Kingston to Toronto. 
 King'n to Cot. du Lac: 
 Bay of Quinte. 
 Toronto to Hamilton. 
 Bay of Quinte. 
 Toronto to Rochester. 
 Toronto to Lewiston. 
 Toronto to Hamilton. 
 
 GOVERNMENT VESSELS. 
 
 18-35 
 
 Traveller, - . 
 
 - 350 
 
 Niagara, - - - 
 
 
 1838 
 
 Experiment, - 
 
 - 150 
 
 Niagara, - - - 
 
 
 1842 
 
 Mohawk, - - 
 
 - 150 
 
 Kingston, . - - 
 
 Iron vessel. 
 
 1842 
 
 Cherokee, - - 
 
 - 700 
 
 Kingston, . ' - - 
 
 
 'Now Lord Sj/denham; she was run down tlie rapids of the St. Law- 
 rence by Capt. Hilliard, in 1840, and plies between Quebec and Montreal. 
 
 t First named Niagara. 
 
 Note. — In addition to the above list of British steamboats of a large 
 class, tliere are a number of smaller boats and Ericsson Propellers., 
 running from Kingston to Montreal, down the rapids of the St. Law- 
 rence and returning through the Rideau canal, carryij^ an immense 
 amount of produce, merchandise, and passengers. 
 
western tour. 151 
 
 Route from Syracuse to Buffalo. 
 
 Camillus, 8 miles west of Syracuse, is situated on the 
 iine of the Auburn and Syracuse Railroad. It contains 
 about 600 inhabitants. 
 
 The village of Jordan, is situated on the Erie Canal, 
 19 miles west of Syracuse. It was incorporated in 1835j 
 and now contains about 1,200 inhabitants. A railroad is 
 contemplated from this place to Skaneateles, from which 
 a branch road, already constructed to the Auburn and 
 Syracuse railroad, is a part of the contemplated work. 
 
 Skaneateles, 5 miles south of the line of the Auburn 
 and Syracuse Railroad, is delightfully situated at the 
 foot oi Skaneateles Lake. It was incorporated in 1833, 
 and now contains about 1,500 inhabitants. The lake, 15 
 miles long, and from a half a mile to a mile wide, is a 
 beautiful sheet of w^ater, surrounded by well cultivated 
 farms and country residences, and celebrated for its fine 
 trout, which are taken in great abundance, weighing 
 from 5 to 10 pounds. 
 
 Auburn, is situated on the outlet of Owasco lake, 172 
 miles west of Albany, and 8 miles south of the Erie ca- 
 nal. It was incorporated in 1815, and contained in 1840, 
 5,626 inhabitants. 800 dwelling houses, a court-housej 
 jail, and county clerk's office. The Auburn State Prison, 
 on the north side of the Owasco outlet a splendid 
 edifice of the kind, was founded in 1816, and cost over 
 half a million of dollars. Here is inclosed 10 acres of 
 land, surrounded by a solid stone wall, from 16 to 40 feet 
 in height and 3 feet thick. The main building, facing 
 the east, is 3 stories high, besides the basement, sur- 
 mounted by a turretted cupola, in which is an alarm bell. 
 The wings are of two stories, the whole front being 276 
 feet long, and the wings 242 deep by 45 feet wide, enclos. 
 
152 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 ing on three sides a court in the rear, about 190 feet 
 square. The cells in the interior are built within the ex- 
 terior front, are 5 stories high, surrounded by galleries. 
 There are 770 of these separate cells, each cell being 7 
 feet long, 3| feet wide, 7| feet high, and calculated to ac- 
 commodate one prisoner during his relaxation from labor. 
 In addition to the cells, the main building contains a 
 chapel, a hospital, dining-room for the prisoners, cook- 
 ing apartments, and store rooms ; besides apartments in 
 the main front building, used as offices for the clerk and 
 agent, and for the residence of the principal keeper. 
 Here are now about 700 convicts, mostly engaged in dif- 
 ferent kinds of mechanical pursuits, carried on in work- 
 shops and under large sheds within the outside prison 
 walls. Of these convicts. 570 are natives of the U. States, 
 and 130 foreigners. 
 
 The Jluburn Theological Seminary, is a large stone 
 edifice, 4 stories high, above the basement, and will be 
 200 feet front, when fully completed as designed. There 
 is now, 1841, a front of 160 feet finished and occupied, 
 under the charge of four professors, with about 80 stu- 
 dents. It was chartered in 1820, and first went into ope- 
 ration in 1821. 
 
 The outlet of Owasco lake is a large and durable 
 stream. Within the limits of the village there is a fall 
 of about 100 feet, affording hydraulic power of great 
 magnitude, much of which is yet unoccupied. The jiu- 
 burn and Syracuse Railroad, terminates at this place, 
 and extends to Syracuse, 26 miles. The Auburn and 
 Rochester Railroad commences at the termination of the 
 above road and runs to the city of Rochester, in rather a 
 circuitous line, a distance of 79 miles. Stages leave Au- 
 burn for Ithaca and Cortland on the south, and Oswego 
 on the north, all of which connect with other lines of 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 153 
 
 travel, running to different places. Auburn is one of the 
 finest inland villages in the state ; its public and private 
 buildings are generally constructed in a good style of ar- 
 chitecture, coinbining elegance and durability, and it is 
 altogether a very desirable place of residence. 
 
 OwAsco Lake, a few miles southeast of Auburn, is 
 12 miles long and about 1 mile wide, being celebrated 
 for its picturesque scenery. The water is very transpa- 
 rent, abounding in fish, and the banks rather rugged. 
 
 Weedsport, 8 miles north of Auburn, is on the Erie 
 canal. It was incorporated in 1831, and now contains 
 about 800 inhabitants. 
 
 Port Byron, 3 miles west of the above place, and on 
 the Erie canal, was incorporated in 1837, and now con- 
 tains about 1,000 inhabitants. Here is an extensive flour- 
 ing mill, with 12 run of stones. 
 
 Montezuma, 205 miles from Albany, by canal route, 
 is situated at the junction of the Cayuga and Seneca canal 
 with the Erie canal ; it contains about 600 inhabitants, 
 one church, tbree taverns and 5 stores. Here are a num- 
 ber of saline springs, from which salt has been manufac- 
 tured ever since the earliest settlement of this part of 
 the country ; and the salt is of the best and purest quali- 
 ty. " The specific gravity of this brine is 1.09767 ; and 
 1,000 parts of it contain 129.33 parts of dry solid matter, 
 or 12.93, in 100 parts of brine. This is within one per 
 cent of the strength of much of the brine now worked in 
 Onondaga county." 
 
 The village of Cayuga, 10 miles west of Auburn, is 
 situated on the east bank of Cayuga Lake ; it contains 
 about 300 inhabitants, 50 dwelling houses, one church, 
 two taverns and three stores. Here the celebrated " Cayu- 
 ga Bridge" crosses the lake, which is upwards of a mile 
 wide ; a new bridge has also been here erected for the 
 
 L 
 
154 
 
 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 railroad, still longer. A steamboat runs from this place 
 to Ithaca, a distance of 40 miles. 
 
 Tourists travelling for pleasure are recommended to 
 deviate south on their arrival at the foot of Cayuga Lake 
 and make the 
 
 TOUR OF THE CENTRAL LAKES of NEW- YORK 
 Cayuga Lake, which constitutes one of the Central 
 Lakes of New- York, is 40 miles long and from 1 to 4 
 miles wide ; it lies between the counties of Cayuga and 
 Seneca, extending some 10 or 12 miles into Tompkins 
 county. This lake, which is very deep, is navigated by 
 steamboats from Cayuga Bridge to the village of Ithaca, 
 stopping at the intermediate landings. It is a most beau- 
 tiful sheet of water, surrounded by well cultivated farms 
 and thriving villages ; and abounds with salmon trout, 
 white fish, pike, pickerel, perch and catfish. On several of 
 the inlets to this lake, towards the south, are most beauti- 
 ful and picturesque water falls, well worthy the attention 
 of the lovers of natural scenery. The outlet flows north 
 into Seneca river. 
 
 " The railroad route from Auburn to Rochester, carries 
 you to the northern end of Cayuga Lake, where the rail- 
 road crosses the water by a bridge a mile and a half long. 
 At the village of East Cayuga, you can embark on the 
 steamer Simeon De Witt, a fast, commodious and well 
 regulated low-pressure boat, where every attention wiU 
 be paid to your comfort and enjoj^ment. 
 
 " In this vessel you pass up (south,) through the Cayuga 
 Lake, which is 40 miles long, and varies from one to 
 four miles in width. The extreme beauty of this sheet 
 of water, transparent as crystal, being fed to a great ex- 
 tent by living springs, and of prodigious depth, 500 feet 
 of line failing to find bottom, its varying scenery, from 
 the highly cultivated sloping shores at its northern end 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 155 
 
 lo the wilder and more abrupt borders of its southern ex- 
 tremity ; its similarity in some parts to, and contrast in 
 others with the Hudson river scenery, have never failed 
 to elicit from all who have passed over it, the highest 
 admiration." 
 
 As the boat proceeds southerly the different landings, 
 passed in succession, are as follows : 
 
 On the eastern shore, Union Springs, or Springpoet, 
 where several mills find their supply of water from the 
 number of springs which rise within a short distance of 
 the shore. This is also the great locality of the gypsum 
 or plaster, whence a large portion of the western coun- 
 ties of this state, and the northern counties of Pennsyl- 
 vania, derive their supply of this valuable manure. 
 
 Levanna, a beautiful point, jutting out into the lake. 
 
 Aurora, one of the oldest settled and most pictures- 
 que villages in the western counties. The route changes 
 here to the western shore, when the first landing is 
 
 Sheldrake Point, a beautiful low promontory, ex- 
 tending half a mile out from the main shore. Kidder's 
 Ferry; PoRTLAND,-sand Frog Point, are next passed. 
 
 Goodwin's Point, lies at the mouth of the Taghcanic 
 creek, which has, a mile from its mouth, one of the 
 most remarkable cataracts to be found in the country. 
 
 Crossing the lake again to the eastern shore, the boat 
 makes its last stop at 
 
 Ltjdlowville Landing, the port of the village of 
 that name, which lies a mile from the water, en an ele- 
 vated spot, but not visible from the water. 
 
 From this point, the suburbs of Ithaca, distant 9 
 miles, crowning the eminence in the rear of the village, 
 are visible, while still higher may be seen the line of the 
 Ithaca and Owego Railroad distinctly marked by the 
 house containing its stationary engine at the summit of 
 
156 WESTEIIN Toun. 
 
 its inclined plane, which is elevated near 400 feet above 
 the surface of the lake. The village of Ithaca is par- 
 tially concealed by a dense forest from the eye, and is ap- 
 proached from the lake throueh the Cayuga Inlet, a na- 
 tural canal of two miles in length, winding through the 
 plain on which the village stands. 
 
 Ithaca, is beautifully situated on a flat one and a half 
 miles above the head of Cayuga lake, with which it is 
 connected by the Cayuga Inlet, navigable for steamboats 
 to the village. It is 170 miles west from Albany, and 
 distant 205 miles northwest from the city of New- York. 
 This village was incorporated in 1821, having been found- 
 ed about 1800, by the late Simeon Be Witt, surveyor- 
 general of the state. It now contains about 4,000 in- 
 habitants, 600 dwelling houses, a court-house and jail, 
 and a count}'' clerk's office ; one Presbyterian, one Dutch 
 Reformed, one Episcopal, one Baptist, one Methodist 
 and one African church ; three banking houses, with an 
 aggregate capital of $650,000 ; nine hotels and taverns, 
 and 46 stores and groceries. 
 
 Within the chartered limits of the village is found hy- 
 draulic povv-er equal to any in the state, for extent and 
 facility of application. Fall Creek alone is capable of 
 operating 133,000 cotton spindles at all seasons of the 
 year ,• and the water power on Cascadilla and Six Mile 
 creeks is verj'^ extensive. There are at present on these 
 streams, 2 flouring mills, with 12 run cf stones ; 2 plas- 
 ter mil's, 1 tanner3% 1 brev/ery, 1 paper mill, 3 furnaces, 
 2 machine shops. 1 carding and cloth dressing establish- 
 ment : 1 oil mill. 1 sash factory, a number of turning- 
 shops, 2 tobacco factories, and 1 cotton factory, with 50 
 looms ; besides which there has been recently established 
 1 woollen factory, with $100,000 capital, and 7 sets of 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 157 
 
 machinery ; anJ a new company has been organized for 
 the manufacture of cotton. 
 
 The site of the village is very beautiful • a portion of 
 it lies upon the hiil, commanding a fine view of the lake 
 and the valley of the inlet, v;ith the surrounding coun- 
 try, which is well cultivated. The houses are tastefully 
 and neatly built j and the streets, which cross each other 
 at right angles, and are lined with choice shade trees, 
 form vistas opening upon charming views of the adjacent 
 hills. The location of this village with reference to trade, 
 is equally advantageous. By means of Cayuga lake, and 
 the Cayuga and Seneca canal, it communicates vrith the 
 Ei'ie canal ; and by the Ithaca and Ovvxgo Railroad with 
 the Susquehanna river, and the line of the New- York and 
 Erie RaiRad. Thus, while enjojdng equal advantages 
 with other western villages for intercourse with the cities 
 on the Hudson, it partakes in the growing trade in pias- 
 ter, salt, lime, flour and merchandize, carried into Penn- 
 sylvania in exchange for coal and iron. The completion 
 of the New- York and Erie Railroad wall open to this 
 place still further advantages by furnishing an avenue for 
 winter trade with the sea board, wdiile it will present at 
 all seasons a cheap and expeditious route for travel. A 
 beautiful steamboat for the convej-ance of passengers, 
 and one used in towing canal boats, run daily between 
 Ithaca and Cayuga Bridge, a distance of 40 miles. Daily 
 lines of stages also leave here for Geneva, Auburn, New- 
 burgh and the city of New- York ; besides tri- weekly 
 stages, running east, west, north and south, to different 
 places. 
 
 To tourists the great attraction of Ithaca consists in its 
 scenery. Built in a valley, hemmed in by an extension of 
 the lofty hills which form the shores of the lake, it is sur- 
 rounded by scenery of the most attractive character. From 
 
158 WESTER]!? TOUR. 
 
 the heights which encircle it three large streams within 
 the village, and within four miles south, several others, 
 fall with rapid descent to the plain, forming cascades of 
 surpassing beaut)' and sublimity. In a single day, a 
 number of water falls, equaling the famed Trenton Fallg, 
 may be visited. 
 
 The following is a brief description of the Falls at and 
 near Ithaca: 
 
 The falls of Fall Creek are near the village, and are seen* 
 on entering the village by the Auburn stage road. Their 
 height is 150 feet, with the same breadth. The "water 
 of this creek, collected in a dam above the fall, is con- 
 veyed to the mills below, through a tunnel 9 feet square, 
 and 300 feet long, hewed through a jutting promontory 
 rock, at a distance of 40 feet below the sui-face of the 
 ground. The curious visiter after passing through the 
 tunnel, finds himself in the bed of the creek^ between 
 rock walls more than 100 feet high. The view from this 
 point is grand and impressive. The visiter proceeds a 
 short distance from this, up the rocky bed of the creek, 
 until his steps are arrested by another splendid fall ; the 
 bank presenting the most curious forms and the most sur- 
 prising strata. The fall is beautiful 5 it is not so high as 
 the preceding, but it is more wild ; the water pours over 
 in large sheets, commencing, as it w-ere, from the top- 
 most ledge, and then spreading out wildly and boldly be- 
 low. The basin into w'hich the water falls is also very, 
 picturesque. 
 
 There are two more falls beyond these, which, with 
 the others, make the descent 438 feet in the short space 
 of one mile. 
 
 On the Six Mile Creek, Cascadilla Creek and on the 
 Buttermilk Creek, there are also a great number of beau- 
 tiful and romnntic falls, all worthy of particular notice 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 159 
 
 and equal to any thing in this country. These are all near 
 the village. 
 
 On the Five Mile Creek, vv^hich is four miles south 
 from Ithaca, is one of the most interesting cataracts in 
 the country, surpassed by none here enumerated. 
 
 At Goodwin's Point there is still another fall, called 
 the Taghcanic. This point is a place where the steam- 
 boat lands daily. The ravine is ascended for about a 
 quarter of a mile, and then the eye is amazed with a 
 fall of water of 200 feet in perpendicular height, a 
 breadth of 20 feet, and banks of 360 feet high. 
 
 On going south from Ithaca j^ou take the Ithaca and 
 Owego Railroad for Owego, distant 30 miles, where you 
 reach the line of the New- York and Erie Railroad. 
 
 Owego is a pleasant village, situated on the north bank 
 of the Susquehanna river, and is destined, as the point of 
 union of the Ithaca and Owego, and the New- York and 
 Erie Railroads, to be a place of importance. The Owego 
 Creek supplies it with a valuable water power. From 
 this place you take conveyances and descend southwes- 
 terly the Susquehanna river, to the village of Athens, in 
 the state of Pennsylvania, at the confluence of the Sus- 
 quehanna and Chemung rivers ; and from this point 
 changing your course northwesterly you ascend the latter 
 stream to the village of Elmira, situated at its point of 
 union w'ith the Chemung canal, which unites the waters 
 of the Chemung river with Seneca lake, 32 miles west 
 of Owego, the entire route being along the line of the New 
 York and Erie Railroad. There is not probably in any 
 part of New-York, a route so abounding in varied beauties 
 of soft and pastoral, sublime and mountain scenery as 
 this. All travellers agree in saying that this portion of 
 
160 WESTKltJf TOLR 
 
 O 
 
 the tour would amply repay them for their divergence 
 from the old line of travel. 
 
 The village of Elmira is another of those beautiful 
 places which, by the enterprise of our yeomanry have 
 sprung up far from the great travelled roads, unknown 
 because unseen, and yet from its position and local ad- 
 vantages, will soon be a large and important place. 
 
 From Elmira by carriage you traverse northerly the 
 route of the Chemung Canal, 19 miles, to the village of 
 Jefferson, on the inlet of the Seneca Lake, where the 
 steamer receives you, and carrying you through this sheet 
 of water, in every respect the equal of its sister Cayuga, 
 lands you at the beautiful village of Geneva, on the 
 grand route, 15 miles west from the point where you com- 
 menced the Tour of the Middle Lakes.* 
 
 The village of Seneca Falls, 15 miles west of Au^ 
 burn, and 187 miles from Albany, is advantageously situa- 
 ted on both sides of the outlet of Seneca lakej it was in- 
 corporated in 1831, and now contains about 3,000 inha- 
 bitants ; 400 dwelling houses ; 5 churches of diiferent de- 
 nominations j 1 cotton factory, and 8 flouring mills. In 
 this neighborhood are large quantities of gypsum, which 
 is here ground and sent to different parts of the country. 
 The Cayuga and Seneca canal and the Auburn and Ro- 
 chester Railroad, pass through this village. The water 
 power afforded by the Seneca outlet is very great; the 
 descent from Seneca to Cayaga lake, a distance of 12 
 miles, being about 75 feet. The stream is abundant, and 
 not subject to freshets, scarcely ever having a rise to 
 exceed two feet; the hydraulic power is great, and is but 
 
 ' Travellers from the west, on their return from Niagai'a, will under- 
 stand that the reverse of the above proposed tour is to pe adopted, com- 
 mencing at Geneva, and ending at East Cayuga 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 161 
 
 partially employed. At Seneea Falls, there is a descent 
 of upwards ot 40 feet within the distance of one mile. 
 Here are five locks in the Cayuj^a and Seneca canal, 
 which unites with the Erie canal at Montezuma. 
 
 Wateeloo, 191 miles west of the city of Albany, is 
 handsomely situated on both sides of the outlet of Seneca 
 lake, which is in part used as the Cayuga and Seneca 
 canal. It was incorporated in 1824, and now contains 
 about 2,600 inhabitants, 350 dwelling hoijses, a court- 
 house and jail, being a half shire town with Ovid : 1 
 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist 
 church ; an academy ; 8 hotels and taverns j 1 banking 
 house,- 25 dry goods, grocery and other stores ; 1 large 
 woollen factory, which manufactures over 200,000 pounds 
 of wool annually, and 5 flouring mills, containing 18 run 
 of stone. The fall of water at this place is about 16 
 feet. In this immediate vicinity are quarried large quan- 
 tities of limestone, extensively used for building. In ad- 
 dition to the Cayuga and Seneca canal, the Auburn and 
 Rochester Railroad passes through this village, which is 
 about equi-distant between Cayuga and Seneca lakes. 
 
 Geneva, 27 miles west of Auburn, and 191 miles from 
 Albany, is beautifully situated near the foot, or north 
 end of Seneca lake, on the w^estern side. The principal 
 part of the village which is devoted to the residences of the 
 inhabitants, lies upon a ridge along the banks of the lake, 
 and elevated about 100 feet above its surface, while the 
 business part extends to the plain which lies at the foot 
 of the lake, and but little elevated. The land west ol 
 the village is peculiarly formed, consisting of a succession 
 of ridges parallel to the lake, and rising higher and high- 
 er for some distance, commanding a view of its waters, 
 as if formed for choice residences in this region of beau- 
 ty. The village was incorporated in 1812, and now con- 
 
162 WESTERA' TOUR. 
 
 tains about 3,600 inhabitants, and 500 dwelling houses 
 The Geneva College, attached to which are three build- 
 ings, and the Geneva Lyceum, are located here; and 6 
 churches of different denominations. The new Episco- 
 pal church is a splendid edifice, erected at a cost of about 
 $30,000. The accommodation for strangers at Geneva 
 is very good, there being several well kept hotels ; and 
 carriages are always in readiness at the railroad depot 
 and steamboat landing, to convey passengers to any part 
 of the village. Two or three steamboats ply regularly 
 on the lake, running daily up and down between Geneva 
 and the village of Jefferson at the head of the lake ; con- 
 necting with stages to Elmira and Corning ; and at the 
 latter place with the railroad to Blossburg. in Pennsyl- 
 vania, A boat is employed in towing canal boats, which 
 come to Geneva by the Cayuga and Seneca canal, a 
 branch of the Erie canal, and thence to the villages on 
 the lake, and to the canal which connects this lake with 
 Crooked Lake, and the Chemung canal, leading from 
 Jefferson to the Chemung river at Elmira, and by the feeder 
 to Corning. By the Blossburg Railroad and the canal just 
 mentioned, a large quantity of coal from the Blossburg 
 mines, passes through this village on its way to market. 
 Near the canal basin at the northern part of the village, 
 passes the Auburn and Rocliester Railroad; and probably 
 ere many years the intercourse now not difficult by the 
 canals, stages and the Blossburg Railroad, with the sys- 
 tem of canals and railroads in Pennsylvania, will open 
 through the Seneca lake which is never frozen, an easy 
 and direct communication with the south. The meri- 
 dian of the capital at "Washington passes through, the 
 lake about half a mile east of Geneva. 
 
 Geneva College, received its charter in 1825, and is a 
 flourishing institution. The college buildings, three in 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 163 
 
 number, are beautifully situated on Main- street, over- 
 looking Seneca lake. A large and handsome building 
 is about being erected on the same street for the use of 
 the medical department. 
 
 Seneca Lake, is one of the largest as well as the 
 most beautiful of the numerous lakes, which so much a%^ ,^ 
 adorn western New- York. It extends from south to 
 north 40 miles, and varies in width from 2 to 4 miles. It 
 is very deep, and in consequence is never frozen. The 
 depth is not accurately known, but w^as found a year or 
 two ago to be 560 feet about 12 miles above the outlet. 
 The lands about the south end of the lake are high and 
 picturesque j about the northern less elevated, but undu- 
 lating, and covered with the richest crops, with here and 
 there remains of the magnificent primitive forest. The 
 outlet of the lake is at the northeastern angle, and the 
 discharge of waters furnishes an ample supply of power 
 to the manufactories of Waterloo and Senaca Falls, ^ 
 
 which flourishing villages are situated, the former about 
 six and the latter ten miles from the lake. Seneca lake 
 receives the water of Crooked lake at Dresden, about 12 
 miles above Geneva. The outlet of Crooked lake is 
 about 6 miles in length, and the descent to Seneca lake 
 about 270 feet. A canal constructed along this outlet con- 
 nects the two lakes. Seneca lake does not so much abound 
 with fish as some of the other lakes, probably in conse- 
 quence of the depth and coldness of the w^aters. There 
 are found in it, however, white-fish, pike, pickerel, 
 trout, perch, herring, rock-bass, striped-bass, chub, sun- 
 fish, cat-fish, eels, shiners, mullet, &c. 
 
 Lyons, 16 miles north of Geneva, is eligibly situated 
 on the Erie canal, 181 miles west of Albany by mail 
 route. It was incorporated in 1831, and now contains # 
 about 1,800 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, a coutt- 
 
164 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 house and jail, county clerk's and surrogate's ofUce ; 1 
 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist, 1 Baptist and 1 
 Lutheran church. Stages leave Lyons daily for Geneva, 
 Rochester, Scdus Point and Syracuse, in addition to com- 
 modious canal packets vv'hich pass and repass twice 
 daily. 
 
 The village of Clyde, is 9 miles east of Lyons, on the 
 Erie canal. It was incorporated in 1835, and now con- 
 tains about 1,000 inhabitants. 
 
 Newark, 7 miles v/est of Lyons, and on the Erie ca- 
 nal, is an active place of business, and contains about 
 1,200 inhabitants. 
 
 Palmyra, 15 miles west of Lyons, on the Erie canal, 
 was incorporated in 1828, and now contains about 2,000 
 inhabitants.* It is situated on an elevated and dry piece 
 of ground, in the midst of a delightful wheat grov/ing 
 country. The main street is over one mile and a quarter 
 I in length, and at each end touches the canal ; it is inter- 
 
 sected by cross streets of ample width, many of which 
 are ornamented by beatiful shade trees. 
 
 On leaving Geneva, going west by railroad, you incline 
 to the north, passing through a fine section of country, 
 for which the county of Ontario is justly celebrated. 
 
 Vienna, 8 miles from Geneva, is a flourishing place, 
 on the outlet of the Canandaigua lake, at the junction of 
 Flint creek. There are two settlements about one mile 
 apart, known as East Vienna and West Vienna. 
 
 Clifton Springs, 3 miles west of Vienna, are resorted 
 to for their medicinal properties, and have become some- 
 what celebrated. They are sulphur springs, of a similar 
 character to many others to be found in Western New- 
 York. 
 
 Short's Mills, is the name given to a small settle- 
 N( ment on the line of the railroad, 5 miles further west. 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 165 
 
 Canakdaigxja, is delightfully situated near the foot of 
 Canandaigua lake, 222 miles west of Albany by railroad. 
 It was incorporated in 1815, and now contains about 
 2,700 inhabitants, 350 dwelling houses, a court-house, 
 jail, surrogate's office, county clerk's office and town 
 house ; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Metho- 
 dist, and 1 African church; 2 banking houses and a 
 saving's bank. Wo place in the state probably exceeds 
 this village as a desirable place of residence; being sur- 
 rounded by a rich agricultural district abounding in al- 
 most everj^ luxury for which Western New-York is so 
 justly celebrated. On the south, at a short distance, lies 
 Canandaigua lake, with its cultivated shores, infuU view 
 of this abode of taste and opulence. 
 
 Canandaigua Lake, is a most beautiful sheet of wa- 
 ter, IS miles long, and from 1 to 1| miles wide, lying 
 mostly in the county of Ontario, and a small part in 
 Yates county ; it is surrounded by well cultivated lands, 
 celebrated for their fertility, diversified by charming sce- 
 nery. Its waters, which are deep and clear, abound with 
 fish of different kinds, and are elevated 670 feet above 
 the Atlantic ocean. Ccmandaigua Outlet flows northeast 
 into Flint creek, thence into Cl;/de and Seneca river ; all 
 of which are important mill streams. 
 
 The village of Victor, is 9 miles west of Canandaigua, 
 and a little to the north of the railroad. 
 
 PiTTSFORD, 12 miles further, is on the line of the Erie 
 canal, near its intersection with the railroad. It was in- 
 corporated in 1827, and nov/ contains about 700 inhabi- 
 tants. 
 
 Brighton, 4 miles east of Rochester, is also on the 
 ine of the Erie canal. 
 
166 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 The City of Rochester, 251 miles from Albany, 
 by railroad, is advantageously situated on both sides of the 
 Genesee river, and on the line of the Erie canal. 6 miles 
 south of Lake Ontario, w^ith which the Genesee affords 
 good water communication for steamboats and schooners 
 from the landing at Carthage, three miles below the centre 
 of the city. It was chartered as a city in 1834, and is di- 
 vided into 5 wards, being governed by a Mayor, Recorder 
 and board of Aldermen. It contained in 1840, 20,202 
 inhabitants, mostly engaged in mercantile and manufac- 
 turing pursuits ,• about 2,000 dwelling houses ; a court- 
 house, jail and county clerk's office ; 2 public markets, 6 
 banking houses, 1 saving's bank, 1 mutual insurance com- 
 pan ; 5 Presbyterian, 2 Epispcopal, 2 Baptist, 2 Metho- 
 dist, 2 Roman Catholic, 1 Unitarian, 1 Covenanters, 2 
 Friends' meeting houses, 1 Universalist, 1 Lutheran and 
 
 1 Christian church j a museum j a collegiate institute; 
 
 2 female seminaries ; 2 orphan asylums, and 2 arcade 
 buildings. 
 
 Steamboats arrive and depart daily during the season 
 of navigation, from the landing|on the south of the city, 
 and from Charlotte at the mouth of the river. Besides 
 the steamboat, canal and railroad routes, diverging from 
 this place, several lines of daily stages also centre here, 
 running to different places for the accommodation of tra- 
 vellers. 
 
 The natural and artificial curiosities of Rochester and 
 its vicinity are well worthy of notice. The most impor- 
 tant of them are the Genesee Falls, which are seen to the 
 greatest advantage from the east side of the river, a short 
 distance below the railroad bridge ,• the noble aqueduct 
 for the enlarged canal, is a splendid specimen of ma- 
 son work ; other falls and bridges, together with the 
 Mount Hope Cemetery, to the south of the city, all giv- 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 167 
 
 ing to Rochester many points of attraction well worthy 
 the attention of the traveller. 
 
 The hotels are numerous^ and most of them well kept, 
 affording every desirable luxury in abundance. 
 
 To the immense water power which Rochester posses- 
 ses, by means of a succession of falls in the Genesee 
 river, may be justly ascribed her rapid growth and sub- 
 stantial wealth. There are now within the limits of the 
 city, and all using water power, 21 flouring mills, with 
 108 run of stones ; 2 woollen factories, 1 cotton factory, 
 1 wrought- iron forge, 4 iron foundries, 11 'machine 
 shops, 2 brass foundries, 1 plaining and flooring mill, 1 
 veneering mill, 2 paper mills, 1 oil mill, 4 tobacco and 
 snuff factories, 7 saw mills, 1 pail factory, 3 pump fac- 
 tories, 2 shoe-peg factories, 2 edge-tool factories, 1 thresh- 
 ing machine and fanning mill factory, 1 chair factory, 2 
 last factories, 2 stave manufactories, 1 sash factory, 3 
 wood turning establishments, 4 tanneries, 3 distilleries 
 and 3 breweries. Within the limits of the city, a dis- 
 tance of 3 miles, the total fall of water is nearly 300 feet, 
 affording an almost inexhaustible supply of water power, 
 which is but partly used. The immense amount of flour 
 manufactured at this place alone, gives employment to a 
 great number of persons. These mills are capable of 
 making 5,000 barrels of flour per day, consuming, when 
 under full headway, about 25,000 bushels of wheat daily. 
 There are upwards of twenty forwarding establishments 
 connected with the trade of the Erie and Genesee Valley 
 canals, besides a limited shipping interest on Genesee 
 river and Lake Ontario. 
 
168 WESXEKN TOUR, 
 
 STAGES LEAVING ROCHESTER. 
 
 Daily Lines, 
 
 1. From Rochester to Lockport, via Ridge Road, 64 
 miles; usual fare, $2.50; connecting at Lockport with 
 the railroad extending to Lewiston and Niagara Falls. 
 
 2. From Rochester to Lockport, via Canal Route, 62 
 miles ; usual fare, $2.00. Leaves daily, (Sunday's ex- 
 cepted.) 
 
 3. From Rochester to Bath, Steuben Co. via Geneseo 
 and Dansville, 75 miles ; usual fare, $3.00 ; connecting 
 with stages running to Corning and Elmira. 
 
 Tri-weekly Lines. 
 
 4. From Rochester to Olean, Cattaraugus Co. via 
 Mount Morris and Angelica, 96 miles ; usual fare, $4.00. 
 Leaves Rochester Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays ; 
 leaves Olean, Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. 
 
 5. From Rochester to Oswego, 76 miles ; usual fare, 
 $4.00. Leaves Rochester, Tuesdays, Thursdays and 
 Saturdays, at 6^ A BI.,' leaves Oswego on Mondays, 
 Wednesdays and Fridays, at 4 A. M. 
 
 The Genesee Valley Canal, commences at Rochester, 
 and ascends the rich valley of the Genesee, being now 
 finished to Mount Morris, a distance of 37 miles, with a 
 branch to Dansville, a total length of 52 miles. Passage 
 boats run daily on this canal to the above places, stop- 
 ping at the intermediate landings on the route. 
 
 The most noted place of resort in the Valley of the 
 Genesee, is Avon Springs, 20 miles south of Roches- 
 ter. The village is delightfully situated about half a 
 mile east of the right bank of the Genesee river, and 
 two miles from the Genesee Valley canal, on an elevated 
 terrace about one hundred feet above the river, command- 
 ing an extensive prospect of the rich Genesee Valley and 
 urrounding country. 
 
WESTERN TOlUKo 169 
 
 Connecte.'l with the village, en the southwest, are the 
 justl}^ famed medicinal springs, giving celebrity to the 
 place. The two principal springs are distinguished as 
 the Upper and Lower Springs, distant from each other 
 about 80 rods. They prssess similar properties, differing 
 only in the relative quantities of the same mineral ingre- 
 dients. Analysis and experience have fully tested the san- 
 ative properties of these waters. They are found peculiar- 
 ly efficacious in disorders of the digestive organs, rheuma- 
 tic complaints and gout, in all sorts of cutaneous ailcc- 
 tjons, and in every kind of obstructions. 
 
 There are several well-kept hotels both at the village 
 and near the Springs. The most noted are the Avon Ea- 
 gle Hotel, kept by O.. Comstock j the Avon Hotel, or 
 Hosmer House, kept by H. R. Phillips ; the Knicker- 
 bocker Hall, kept by D. Knickerbocker, and the Spring Hc» 
 tel, kept N, Houghton. The two latter are situated near 
 the springs, the two former in the village. The accom- 
 modations for bathing are also extensive and hanJsome- 
 iy arranged, there being three establishments ; altogether 
 affording great attractions not only for the invalid but for 
 the seeker of pleasure. 
 
 The following is an analysis of the lower spring, which 
 is the most esteemed for drinking. 
 
 One gallon contains : 
 
 Carbonate of lime, 23.33 grains. 
 
 Chloride of calcium, 8.41 •' 
 
 Sulphate of lime, 57.44 " 
 
 Sulphate of magnesia, 49.61 " 
 
 Sulphate of soda, 13.75 ^' 
 
 Amount of saline ingredients 15S 52 
 
 Carbonic acid, 3.92 cubic inches. 
 
 Per volume, sulphuretted hydrogen 
 
 gas, 10.02 
 
 Nitrogen gas, 5.42 
 
 Oxygen gas, - . . . 56 
 
 M 
 
 <( 
 
170 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 The temperature of these waters is 45 degrees of Fah- 
 renheit ; specific gravity, 10.018; quantity of water dis- 
 charged, 54 gallons per minute. 
 
 On returning from Avon to Rochester, the traveller has 
 a choice of two conveyances, by canal boats or stages. 
 
 There are several modes of conveyance from Roches- 
 ter, west to Buffalo and Niagara Falls. The route by 
 railroad to Buffalo, 74 miles is the most expeditious. 
 The canal route, 95 miles, is a cheap and comfortable 
 mode of travelling ; in addition to which, steamboats run 
 daily, during the season of navigation, from Carthage, 
 3 miles below the centre of the city, to Lewiston, and 
 thence passengers are conveyed by railroad cars to Niaga- 
 ra Falls and Buffalo. 
 
 Railroad Route from Rochester to Buffalo. 
 The Tonawanda Railroad, extends west from Rochester, 
 through the villages of Churchville and Bergen. 
 
 Batavia, 32 miles west of Rochester, and 283 from 
 Albany, by railroad route, is pleasantly situated on 
 a plain, through which flows the Tonawanda creek ; it 
 was incorporated in 1823, and now contains about 2,000 
 inhabitants, 300 dwelling houses, a court-house, jail and 
 county clerk's office, a state arsenal, the general land of- 
 fice of the Holland Land Company ; 1 Presbyterian, 1 
 Episcopal, 2 Baptist and 1 Methodist church ; a female 
 seminary in a flourishing condition ; 2 banking houses, 
 and 7 hotels and taverns. Stages run from Batavia south, 
 to Warsaw; and north, to Albion and Lockport. 
 
 The village of Attica, 11 miles from Batavia, and on 
 the Tonawanda creek, is the western terminus of the 
 Tonawanda Railroad. It is an active place of business, 
 containing about 800 inhabitants. 
 
 The Attica and Buffalo Railroad, is 3 1 miles long, 
 terminating at the city of Buffalo. The total distance 
 from Albany to Buffalo, by railroad route, is 325 miles. 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 171 
 
 Canal Route from Rochester to Buffalo. 
 
 Brockport, 20 miles west of Rochester, and 289 by 
 canal from Albany, is handsomely situated on the Erie 
 canal ; it was incorporated in 1829, and now contains 
 about 2,000 inhabitants, 250 dwelling houses, 1 Presby- 
 terian, 1 Episcopal, and 1 Methodist church j and a col- 
 lege building now used as an academy. 
 
 l"he village of Holley, 5 miles west of Brockport, 
 contains about 350 inhabitants. Sandy Creek flows 
 through this place, over which the canal passes by means 
 of an embankment, 75 feet above the bed of the stream, 
 which is conveyed under it by a culvert. 
 
 Albion, on the Erie Canal, 60 miles from Buffalo, and 
 304 miles from Albany, by canal route ; was incorporated 
 in 1829, and now contains about 1,400 inhabitants, 200 
 dwelling houses, a court-house, jail and county clerk's 
 office ; 2 banking houses ; an incorporated academy and 
 Phipp's fer/.ale seminary, both in a flourishing condition, 
 to each of which is attached large brick edifices ; 1 Pres- 
 byterian, 1 Baptist and 1 Methodist church ; 3 taverns, 
 18 stores and groceries, 7 ware-houses and 1 flouring mill. 
 Here is a canal collector's office and a convenient landing. 
 
 The village oi Gaines, 1 or 2 miles north of Albion, 
 and on the Ridge Road, was incorporated in 1832, and 
 now contains 6 or 700 inhabitants. 
 
 The Alluvial Way, or Ridge Road, is a work of 
 nature, extending from the Genesee river, near Roches- 
 ter, to the Niagara river, near Lewistcn. It is a gently 
 curving ridge composed of beach sand and gravel stoneSj 
 apparently worn smooth by the action of water. Its ge- 
 neral width is from 6 to 8 rods, raised in the middle, and 
 the top presents an excellent road, called the "Ridge 
 Road," extending upwards of 80 miles, being from 6 to 
 10 miles south of the present shore ol Lake Ontario, of 
 which it once no doubt formed the beach. . 
 
172 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 Kxov.'LF.sviLLK, 7 milcs Avpst of x\lbion, is an incor- 
 porate] village on the line of the Erie canaJ, anJ ccr.<= 
 tains about 590 inhabitants. 
 
 Medina, 4 rai'es further west, on the Erie c^nal, v/aa 
 incorporate,! in 1332, ani now contains about 900 inhabi- 
 tants, 130 dwelling houses, ani several mills and manu- 
 facturing establishments. 
 
 MiDELEPORT, 17 miles west cf Albion, contains about 
 400 inhabitants. 
 
 Gasport, 5 miles further west, lakes its name from 
 several mineral burning springs cf some celebrity, situat- 
 e.i near the line cf the canal. The gas is used for do- 
 mestic purposes. 
 
 The village of Lockport is en the Erie canal, 31 miles 
 northeast of Buffalo, ani from Albany by canal route, 
 333 miles. It was incorporateJ in 1327, ani now con- 
 tains about 6,500 inhabitants, 800 dwelling houses, a 
 court-house, jail ani county clerk's office ; 2 Presbyte- 
 rian, 1 Congregational, 2 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 1 Metho- 
 dist, 1 Roman Catholic, 1 Lutheran ani 1 African church ; 
 besides an Orthodox and Hicksite meeting house. 
 
 The hydraulic power derived from the surplus waters 
 of the Erie Canal at this place, is sufficient to propel at 
 least 300 run of mill stones, and is admirably located fcr 
 an extensive manufacturing town. In addition to the 
 Erie canal which passes through the centre of the village, 
 the Loc'sport ani Nia^ar'f- Falls Railroad commences 
 at this place, ani runs to Niagara Falls, 24 miles ; the 
 Buffalo and Niazara Falls Railroad extends a further 
 distance of 22 miles to the city of Bufialo, afforiing a 
 speedy communication for travellers visiting the Falls 
 ani Buffalo. Here are now re- building ten combined 
 locks, to be constructed cf lime rock in the most finished 
 style cf mascnry, to acccmmcdale the enlarged Erie ca- 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 173 
 
 nal. Lcclcpcrt has sprung up and keccme cne cf our 
 largest in'ani villages since the completion cl' the above 
 canal, deii/ing its name from the above locks. Here is 
 the first fall of water between this place anJ Lake Erie, 
 there being a descent of about 60 feet. A daily line cf 
 stages run from this place to Batavia, and to Rochester 
 by the ridge road, in addition to daily lines of canal 
 packet beats running east and west. 
 
 From Lockport to Lewiston, the Falls of Niagara, and 
 EufFalo, travellers are speedi y taken by railroad ; the ca- 
 nal boats though slower are cheap and ccmicrtable. The 
 principal villages through which the Erie canal passes 
 from Lockport to Buffalo, are Tonawanda, 19 miles 
 distant, and where the line of the canal approaclies 
 the Niagara river, and Black Rock, 3 miles from Buf- 
 falo. Here is a long stone pier and dam, which 
 answers tlie double purpose of raising the water of the 
 outlet of Lake Erie, so as to feed the canal, and far- 
 nish a vast amount of hydraulic power. 
 
 At Buffalo, 364 miles from Albany by canal route, is 
 the terminus cf the Erie canal. Here a plan has been 
 proposed to construct an extensive basin, to accommodate 
 the immense number of canal beats that navigate this ar- 
 tificial river, connecting the waters of the great inland 
 seas of America, with the Atlantic ocean. 
 
 The United States government is constructing fcetweerx 
 Buffalo and Black Rock, an extensive and strong fortress, 
 on a scale suitable for the defence cf so important a point. 
 It is situated on a rise cf ground about a mile and a half 
 north of the cilj' — that is, about halfway to Black Rock 
 — and neaidy opposite to the site of Fort Erie, en the 
 Canada side, which was made memorable by the sortie 
 of Gen. Porter, then of Black Rock, and his volunteers, 
 on the ITth of August, in the glorious campaign cf 1SI4 
 
174 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 Niagara Falls, the admiration and wonder of all 
 who behold them, are situated in the Niagara river, about 
 equi-dislant between Lakes Erie and Ontario, and 330 
 miles west of Albany, by the most usually travelled route. 
 
 For an accurate, well drawn, detailed description of the 
 Falls, the tourist is referred to " Orr's Pictorial 
 Guide to Niagara Falls," published in 1842, inas- 
 much as the different views, features, and points of at- 
 traction, are sufficiently numerous and interesting to form 
 a volume of themselves. 
 
 The following extracts w^ritten in the summer of 1843, 
 are here inserted to guide those who may not possess the 
 above work. 
 
 "The Falls of Niagara, always majestic and won- 
 derful for their power over the imagination, really 
 seem to be improving in grandeur. The truth is, 
 the lover of nature, the tourist in search of the pictur- 
 esque, or the patriot who to these attractions would add 
 the enjoyment of those delicious emotions which are ex- 
 cited by the actual presence of the scenes of heroic deeds, 
 cannot accomplish the true object of a visit to this spot — 
 cannot really see the Falls without a sojourn of several 
 days on both sides of the mighty cataract. Nothing less 
 will enable him to obtain true conceptions of its surpassing 
 grandeur and its varied magnificence. The rapids above 
 — the falls themselves — the rapids below — the whirlpool — 
 the vast chasm and the huge lines of precipice walling in 
 the river — all these should be severally seen and studied. 
 
 " On this magnificent frontier, it should also be re- 
 membered, are various other localities clustered together 
 and belonging to history. Fort Niagara, at the angle 
 made by the junction of the river and Lake Ontario, on 
 the American side — Fort George, on the Canada side — 
 Queenston Heights, also on the Canada shore, made 
 

WESTERN TCUR. 175 
 
 memorable by the gallantry and steaJiness of a detach- 
 ment of the miliiia of this Slate, leJ on to the attack by 
 Solomon Van Rensselaer ani cnhanceJ in inierest by the 
 fall of Gen, Brociv, the priJe of the British forces then in 
 Canada, and whose monument, though shattered by the 
 ruffiai Lett, is about to be rebuilt — Luniy's Lane, also 
 on the Canada siJe, and not far from the Falls, where, 
 on the 25lhof July, 1314, was fought one of the bloodiest 
 battles en record — Chippewa, a liitle up stream, where, 
 on the 5lh of the same July, an American ibrce, in fair 
 fight anJ open field, defeated a British foi'ce creatly su- 
 perior la nusnbers and drawn from the veterans of Wel- 
 lington, who had conquered the conquerers cf Europe 
 
 all these historical scenes nre among the objects which 
 should be included in a visit to the Fails. 
 
 '• The Burning Spring, too, on the Canada side, and 
 the Mineral Springs, otherwise known as as the Bel'e 
 Vue Fountain, on our side, are not to be oveidooked nor 
 undervalued, as helping, each in its own M'ay, to sus- 
 tain the interest cf the rival shores; so that whether we 
 regard the grandeur cf Nature's works, or the ex- 
 citing emotions called forth by the doings of men, it must 
 be ccnceJeJ that the Falls of Niagara and the appurte- 
 nances thereunto belonging, possess many and varied at- 
 tractions. 
 
 " As to hotels, I cn^y vtdsh all who are pent up and 
 pining in hot and stifling cities, could Le transferred to 
 this gran;lest of all ' watering places,' that tliey might 
 breathe the air forever fresh and kepi in healthful motion 
 by the action of the mighty cataract, anl that they might 
 banquet on the luxuries proviJeJ by Messrs. Whitney & 
 Son, of the Cataract House, on the American bank, or 
 by C, B, Grifl'en cf the Clifton House, on the Cana- 
 da bank. The Pavilion, kept by Mr. Christler, is also 
 
176 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 on the Canada side. Besides the above, there are seve- 
 ral well kept public houses on the American side of the 
 river, all of which are usually thronged with visiters dur- 
 ing the summer months." 
 
 The following expressive lines were penned by the late 
 Willis Gaylord Clark, June, 1836, immediately after 
 having passed tRe great falling sheet of water ; to the 
 Termination Rock, being 230 feet behind the Great 
 Horse-Shoe Fall, which is approached from the Canada 
 side : 
 
 NIAGARA FALLS. 
 
 " Here speaks the voice of God ! Let man be dumb, 
 Nor with his vain aspirings hither come ; 
 That voice impels these hollow-sounding floods, 
 And like a presence fills the distant woods. 
 These groaning rocks the Almighty's finger piled, 
 For ages here His painted bow has smiled ; 
 Marking the changes and the chance of time- 
 Eternal— beautirul— serene— sublime ! " 
 
 ^ 
 
te: 
 
 ^^'^Mim 
 
 
 
 fp^ I'll 
 
 If 
 
 ailL 
 
 Table Rocz FROii below^ on the Canada side. 
 
I 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 177 
 
 Lewiston, 7 miles below The Falls, is situated cq 
 the east siJe of the river, opposite Queenston and at the 
 head of steamboat navigation ; being 7 miles from Lake 
 Ontario. It is an incorporated village and contains about 
 1,000 inhabitants. Here is a convenient steamboat land- 
 ing from which boats ply to various places on Lake On- 
 tario ; a commodious horse ferry boat also plies across 
 the Niagara river to Queenston, Canada. A branch 
 railroad extends 3 miles, to its junction with the Lock- 
 port and Niagara Fails Railroad, affording a speedy com- 
 munication with Lockport, Niagara Falls and Buffalo. 
 The railroad, steamboat and canal route from Buffalo to 
 Albany, via Niagara Falls, Lewiston, Oswego, and Sy- 
 racuse, is a desirable, cheap and speedy mode of con- 
 veyance during the summer months. 
 
 Steamboats leave Lewiston daily for Niagara, 7 miles ; 
 Hamilton, 56 miles j Toronto, 44 miles ; Kingston, 200 
 miles ; Rochester, 80 miles, and Oswego, 150 miles, con- 
 necting with other lines of travel at the above places. 
 On the arrival of the Oswego and Toronto boats, rail- 
 road cars immediately convey passengers to Buffalo, via 
 Niagara Falls, a distance of 30 miles. 
 
 A dai'y line of stages run from opposite Lewiston, 
 through Canada, to Detroit, Michigan, a distance of 262 
 miles. 
 
 Fort Niagaka, 7 miles below Lewiston, lying on the 
 American shore at the mouth of Niagara river, is well 
 worthy of a visit in connection with the ruins of Fort 
 George, on the Canadian shore, near the village of Ni- 
 agara. In 1679, M. De Salle, the explorer of the Mis- 
 sissippi, in the service of France, enclosed the spot 
 on which the fort was here built in 1725, by pallisades. 
 In 1759, it was taken by the British unJer Sir William 
 Johnson, in whose hands it remained until 1796, when it 
 
178 WESTERN TOURo 
 
 was evacuated and given up to the United States. On the 
 19lh of December^ 1813, it was again taken by the British 
 by surprise; and in March, 1815, again surrendered to 
 the Americans. This old fort is as much noted for being 
 the theatre of tyranny and crime as for the scenes of 
 military exploits. While in the hands of the French, 
 there is no doubt of its having been at times used as a 
 prison. In its close and impregnable dungeons, where 
 light w^as not admitted, for many years, there remained 
 clear traces of the ready instruments for execution or for 
 murder. During the war of the Revolution it was the 
 head-quarters of all that was barbarous, and unrelenting 
 and cruel; this being the chief rendezvous of a savage 
 horde that carried death and destruction into the remote 
 American settlements. Of late years, the abduction of 
 William Morgan, who was taken from the jail in Canan- 
 daigua, and conveyed more than 100 miles, through a 
 populous country and lodged in the magazine at Fort 
 Niagara, where he was kept three or four days, and then 
 inhumanly drowned — has justly tended to continue its 
 reputation for being the scene of tyranny and murder. 
 
 For a description of places in Canada, see " Toub 
 THROUGH Canada." 
 
 The City of Buffalo, distant from Albany 284 
 miles by nearest route ; 325 miles by railroad, and 363 
 miles by the Erie canal, is situated at the head of Niaga- 
 ra river, the outlet of Lake Erie, and at the foot of the 
 great chain of western lakes, and is the point where the 
 vast trade of these inland seas is concentrated. The 
 site of the city is one of much beauty, having a gentle 
 southern inclination towards the lake. The harbor, form- 
 ed by Buffalo creek, lies nearly east and west across the 
 southern part of the city, and is separated from Lake 
 Erie by a peninsula, between the creek and the lake. This 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 179 
 
 harbor is a very secure one, and is of such a capacity 
 that, although steamboats, ships and other lake craft, and 
 canal boats, to the number, in all, from two to three hun- 
 dred, have sometimes assembled there, for the transaction 
 of the business of the lakes, yet not one-half part of the 
 harbor has ever yet been occupied by the vast business 
 of the great and growing west. Facilities, however, 
 have been wanting for bringing together the lake and 
 canal craft, in the eastern part of the harbor; and to fur- 
 nish these, the canal commissioners, under a special law 
 of the state, are to extend the Erie canal a mile or more, 
 east of its original termination, across the eastern part of 
 the city, and parallel to the harbor. By this work, and 
 cross cuts therefrom, canal boats will reach every part 
 of the harbor with equal facility. The city is divided 
 north and south, by Main-street, into two nearly equal 
 parts, but by far the greater portion of its inhabitants 
 occupy the eastern half of the city. 
 
 Buffalo was first settled by the whites in 180 J. In 
 1814 it was all burned by the British, except three build- 
 ings. In 1832 it was chartered as a city, and divided into 
 five wards ; being governed by a mayor, recorder and 
 board of aldermen. Its population in 1840, according to 
 the United States census, was 18,213. In 1818 the first 
 steamboat was built upon Lake Erie; and the total num. 
 ber of sail craft upon these waters, at that time, was 30. 
 There are now, 1843, some 50 or 60 steamboats, with 
 300 schooners and other sail craft, navigating Erie and 
 the upper lakes, and carrying on an.extensive commerce 
 from Buffalo westward, twelve hundred miles, through 
 this chain of inland seas. 
 
 By means of the Erie canal and the Hudson river, 
 Buffalo is now connected with Albany and New-York ; 
 while by a chain of railroads now completed, she is as 
 
ISO WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 direct'}' connectei by Ian I through these, with Albany > 
 anJ Boston, Massachusetts. 
 
 The streets in the most compact portions of the city, 
 arepavei; an.l the builJings, particularly those for bu- 
 siness, are of the most durabie construction. anJ modern 
 style. Hei'e are a court-house and jail and county clerl-'s 
 office ; 2 public market?, one with the city oifices in the 
 second story ; 3 Presbyterian, 2 Episcopal, 1 Baptist, 
 2 Roman Catholic, 1 Unitarian, 1 Universalist, 3 Ger- 
 man Protestant, 1 Bethel, 1 Methodist, and 2 African 
 churches; 1 orphan asylum, and 1 theatre. 
 
 The United States Government have constructed a pier 
 or mole, extenJing 1.500 feet on the south side of the 
 mouth of the creek, between the harbor and the iake. Up- 
 on'the outer end of this pier is a light-house, 46 feet high, 
 and 20 feet in diameter at its base. It is a beautiful and 
 durable structure, erected in 1S32-3. 
 
 The Buffalo and Black Rock Railroad, 3 miles long, 
 ani the Buffalo and Niagara Falls Railroad, 23 miles 
 lon2f, both commence at this place, and run north j 
 while the Attiat and Buffalo Railroad, extends 3 1 miles 
 eastu'-ard, connecting with the Tonawanda Railroad^ 
 which terminates at the city of Rochester. 
 
 *' Such have been the facilities atfitr. led by means of ca- 
 nals and railroads, in connection with lake navigation, 
 that Buffalo now presents a very active and thriving ap- 
 pearance. Situated at the foot of one of the great series 
 of inland seas, where every particle of produce and mer- 
 chanJise must be transhipped, in coming both from the 
 Far West and from the sea-board, nothing can prevent 
 the rapid growth nn I expand ii g importance of the place. 
 Already are her wharves anJ storehouses crowded with 
 the products of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michi'jan, and 
 Wisconsin, the natural resources of which vast regions 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 181 
 
 have but just begun to be developed. As the population 
 of the northern section of the great valley of the Missis- 
 sippi, increases, so must, in due proportion, increase the 
 population and wealth of this Queen City of the 
 Lakes." 
 
 There are novv' running between Buffalo and Chicago^ 
 distant about 1,000 miles, some 15 to 20 steamers of a 
 large class ; and about as many more run to Toledo. 
 Maumee, and Detroit, stopping at the intermediate ports. 
 All these, together with the sailing craft of the lake, and 
 the canal boats now thronging the harbor of Buffalo, give 
 life and employment to great numbers of people, and 
 heavy amounts of capital. 
 
 STEAMBOAT LINES LEAVING BUFFALO. 
 
 From Buffalo to Chicago. — A steamboat leaves 
 Buffalo every other morning, during the season of navi- 
 gation, for Chicago, Illinois. Distance 1,047 miles- 
 Usual fare $12.00. 
 
 Fkom Buffalo to Detroit. — A boat leaves Buffalo 
 daily for Detroit, stopping at the intermediate ports. 
 Distance 372 miles. Usual fare, $7.00. 
 
 From Buffalo to Toledo and Perrysburg. — A boat 
 leaves Buffalo daily for Perrysburg, stopping at the in- 
 termediate ports. Distance 319 miles. Usual fare, $7.00. 
 
 A boat runs daily between Buffalo and Barcelona. 
 Distance 60 miles. Usual fare $2.00. 
 
 A boat runs daily between Buffalo, Chippewa and 
 Schlosser's Landing. Distance 22 miles. Usual fare, 37| 
 cents. 
 
 The latter line connects with railroad cars rimning 
 from Chippewa to Queenston, and with stages runnins^ 
 from Schlosser's Landing to Niagara Falls. 
 
 A British steamer plies between Buffalo and Port Stan- 
 ley_, Canada, running twice a week, during the season of 
 navigation. 
 
 N 
 
1^ WESTERN TOUI{, 
 
 STAGES LEAVING BUFFALO. 
 
 Daily Line from Buffalo to Detroit, via Erie, Penn- 
 sylvania-, Cleveland and Toledo, Ohio ; distance about 
 400 miles. Usual fare, $10.00. 
 
 From Buffalo to Batavia, leaves daily, (Sundays ex- 
 cepted.) Distance 38 miles. Usual fare, $1 .00. 
 
 Tri- Weekly Lines from Buffalo to Ellicottville. 
 Distance 50 miles. Usual fare, $2.50. 
 
 From Buffalo to Warsaw. Distance 44 miles. Usual 
 fare, $1.50. 
 
 A daily line of stages runs from Buffalo to Lockport 
 during the suspension of navigation^ distance 30 miles. 
 Usual fare, $1.50. 
 
 Distances from Buffalo to Chicago, via Detroit 
 
 and St. Joseph, by steamboat, railroad and stage route. 
 
 From Buffalo to Detroit by steamboat, 372 miles. 
 
 Railroad and Stage Route from Detroit to Chicago. 
 
 Detroit to Dearborn, by railroad,. ... 10 
 
 Dearborn to Wayne, '^' .... 8 18 
 
 Wayne to Ypsilanti, " 12 30 
 
 Ypsilanti to Ann Arbor, " 10 40 
 
 Ann Arbor to Dexter, " 10 50 
 
 Dexter to Sylvan, •' 10 60 
 
 Sylvan to Grass Lake, '' .... 10 70 
 
 Grass Lake to Jackson, " .... 10 80 
 
 Jackson to Barry, 6?/ s^ag-e, 6 85 
 
 Barry to Smithfield, 7 93 
 
 Smithfield to Albion, 6 99 
 
 Albion to Marengo, 7 106 
 
 Marengo to Marshall, 5 111 
 
 Marshall to Battle Creek, 12 123 
 
 Battle Creek to Charleston, 10 133 
 
 Charleston to Galesburs, 4 137 
 
 Galesburg to Corastock, 4 141 
 
 Comstock to Kalamazo, 4 145 
 
 Kaiamazo to Paw Paw, 18 163 
 
 Paw Paw to Hamilton, 12 175 
 
 Hamilton to Keelersville, 4 179 
 
 Keelersville to Bainbridge, 11 190 
 
 Bainbridge to St. Joseph, 10 200 
 
 St Joseph to Chicago, bij steamboat,. 69 269 
 
'WESTERW TOUR. 
 
 183 
 
 Table of Distances through Lakes Erie, Huron 
 AND Michigan, from port to port. 
 
 PLACES. 
 
 Buffalo, 
 
 Dunkirk, 
 
 Erie, Penn., 
 
 Conneaut, 
 
 Ashtabula, 
 
 Grand River, . . ^ . . 
 
 Cleveland, 
 
 Black River, 
 
 Vermilion, 
 
 Huron, 
 
 Sandusky, 
 
 Toledo, 
 
 Monroe, , 
 
 Detroit, 
 
 Fort Gratiot, 
 
 Point au Barks, 
 
 Thousand Bay Islands, 
 
 Presque Isle, 
 
 Mackinac, 
 
 Manitou Islands, 
 
 Milwaukie, 
 
 Racine, 
 
 Southport, 
 
 Chicago, 
 
 p-i 
 
 €0 
 45 
 45 
 I 28 
 13 
 30 
 30 
 28 
 10 
 20 
 10 
 50 
 28 
 35 
 70 
 60 
 75 
 30 
 60 
 80 
 220 
 20 
 12 
 48 
 
 02 O 
 
 00 
 45 
 90 
 118 
 131 
 161 
 191 
 219 
 229 
 249 
 259 
 309 
 337 
 372 
 442 
 502 
 577 
 607 
 667 
 747 
 967 
 987 
 999 
 1047 
 
 o i; 
 
 372 
 327 
 282 
 254 
 241 
 211 
 181 
 153 
 143 
 123 
 113 
 63 
 35 
 00 
 70 
 130 
 205 
 235 
 295 
 375 
 595 
 615 
 627 
 675 
 
 
 u^ 
 
 1047 
 
 1002 
 
 957 
 
 929 
 916 
 886 
 856 
 828 
 818 
 798 
 788 
 733 
 710 
 675 
 605 
 545 
 470 
 440 
 380 
 300 
 80 
 60 
 48 
 Oo 
 
 Interesting Excursion. 
 During the summer months it is usual for one of the 
 many splendid steamers that sail from Buffalo, to make 
 a pleasure excursion of some weeks, duration, visiting 
 the Upper Lakes, stopping at Detroit, Mackinaw, the 
 Manitou Islands, Chicago, Green Bay, the Falls of St. 
 Mary's, and other interesting points to be found on the 
 borders of these great inland seas. 
 
184 \VESTEl:W TOUll. 
 
 A TRIP FROM BUFFALO TO CHICAGO. 
 
 This is a deeply interesting excursion, calculated to 
 give the traveller a just conception of the great inland 
 seas of North America, inasmuch as the route traverses 
 Lakes Erie, St. Clair, Huron, and Michigan, a total dis- 
 tance of more than a thousand miles. 
 
 If to this is added a trip to the Falls of St. Mary, 
 (Sault de St. Marie,) in the outlet of Lake Superior, and 
 connecting it with Lake Huron — to the Manitoulin Is- 
 lands in the northern quarter of Lake Huron, their very 
 name implying scenery fitted to excite sublime emo- 
 tions and suggesting the strong sentiment of religious 
 awe which characterised the primitive redman, and to 
 the island of Mackinac, (pronounced Mackinaw,) and its 
 sister islands in the straits of the same name, abounding 
 with the finest trout and white fish, and connecting the 
 lakes of Michigan and Huron — if these be added to the 
 tour, no excursion of equal extent can be found, that 
 presents a greater variety of picliaresque and magnificent 
 scener3^ 
 
 As this excursion begins on Lake Erie, we begin our 
 guidance with a brief description of that noble and most 
 useful body of water. 
 
 Lake Erie, washing the shores of four of these LTni- 
 ted States — New-York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Michi- 
 gan — and spreading between them and a large segment of 
 the British province of Canada "West, with the line of 
 division as settled by treaty, running through the middle 
 of the lake, is 240 miles long by 40 to 60 miles wide- 
 Its surface, as ascertained by the engineers of the Erie 
 canal, is 555 feet above the Hudson river at Albany, and 
 334 feet above Lake Ontario. The greatest depth of the 
 lake yet observed, is 270 feet. This is comparatively 
 shallow; and the relative depths of the great series of 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 185 
 
 tak^s may be illustrated by saying that the surplus waters 
 poured^ from the vast basins of Superior, Huron, and 
 Michigan, flow across the plate of Erie into the deep 
 bowl of Ontario. 
 
 Lake Erie is reputed to be the only one of the series 
 in which any current is perceptible. The fact, if it is 
 one, is usually ascribed to its shallownessj but the vast 
 volume of is outlet — the Niagara river — with its strong 
 ■current, is a much more favorable cause than the small 
 depth of its water, which may be far more appropriate- 
 ly adduced as the reason why the navigation is obstructed 
 by ice much more than either of the other great lakes. 
 The New- York shore of Lake Erie extends about 60 
 miles in the course of which the lake receives a number of 
 streams, the most considerable of which are the Buffalo 
 and Cattaraugus creeksj and presents several harbors, 
 ■the most important of which at present, are Buffalo creek 
 and Dunkirk. 
 
 As connected with trade and navigation, this lake is 
 far the most important of all the great chain, not only be- 
 cause it is bordered by older settlements than any of them 
 except Ontario, but still more because, from its position, 
 it concentrates the trade of the vast west. 
 
 When we consider the extent not only of this lake, but 
 of Huron, nearly 250 miles long, of Michigan, 300 miles 
 long., of Superior, the i'argest body of ftesh water on 
 the globe, w« may quote with emphasis, the words of an 
 English writer: " How little are they aware, in Europe, 
 of the extent of commerce upon these inland seas, whose 
 coasts are now lined with flourishing town and cities ; 
 whose waters are ploughed with magnificent steamboats, 
 and hundreds of vessels crowded with merchandise. 
 Even the Americans themselves are not fully aware of 
 the rising importance of these lakes, as connected with 
 the west." 
 
186 WKSTERW TOUK. 
 
 Dunkirk, 45 miles from Buifalo, is no doubt destined to 
 become an important place. Here it is intended to ter- 
 minate the New-York and Erie Railroad, "vvhicli will no 
 doubt be completed before many j'^ears. The fine harbor 
 here is usuallj^ clear of ice much earlier than that of Buf- 
 falo. This village was incorporated in 1837, and now 
 contains about 1,000 inhabitants, 2 churches, and several 
 public houses. The distance from Dunkirk |to New- 
 York cit)' is 470 males by this raih-oad, 64 miles of which 
 are finished; 177 miles, in detached portions, ready for 
 the superstructure, and the remainder surveyed and lo- 
 cated. 
 
 Barcelona, 52 miles southwest from Buffalo, is the 
 westernmost village in the state of New- York. It is a port 
 of entry and contains about 400 inhabitants, 3 taverns, and 
 ten or fifteen stores and storehouses. A steamboat runs 
 from Buffalo to this place, stopping at the intermediate 
 ports. Here, too, is a lighthouse, lighted with inflamma- 
 ble gas, which escapes from the bed of the creek, about 
 a mile distant, and is carried in pipes to the shore. 
 
 Erie, Pa., 90 miles from Buffalo, is beautifully situa- 
 ted on Presque Isle bay, affording one of the best har- 
 bors on the lake. It contains about 4,000 inhabitants,- 
 a court-house and jail; 8 churches,- 1 banking house; 
 several well kept public houses, and a number of stores 
 and warehouses. It is a place of much trade and of 
 growing importance. 
 
 CoNNEAUT, 28 miles further west, in the northeast 
 corner of Ohio, stands on a creek of the same name, 
 at its entrance into the lake. In 1840, the town contained 
 2,642 inhabitants, 3 churches, and 24 stores. It ex- 
 ports large quantities of lumber, ^rain, pork, beef, flour^ 
 butter, cheese, &e. 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 187 
 
 Ashtabula, Ohio, 13 miles from Conneaut, stands oh 
 a stream of the same name, near its entrance into the 
 lake. 
 
 Faibport, Ohio, stands on the east side of Grand 
 river, 161 miles from Buifalo. Its harbor for lake ves- 
 sels is good, and it is connected with Painesville by a 
 railroad of 3 miles long. 
 
 The City of Cleveland, the emporium of northern 
 Ohio, is 191 miles from Buffalo, 211 from Detroit, and 
 916 from Chicago. It is a port of entry, and next to 
 Cincinnati, is the most important town in^lhe state. It 
 stands at the mouth of the Cuyahoga river, and the 
 northern termination of the Ohio canal, 307 miles from 
 Portsmouth on the Ohio river. Packet boats for passen- 
 gers run daily en this canal, reaching Portsmouth iu 
 about three and a half days ; where steamboats are taken 
 for Cinftinnatti, a further distance of 113 miles. It has aho 
 a connection with Pittsburg, by means of the Ohio and 
 Pennsylvania canals. 
 
 The harbor of Cleveland is one of the best on Lake 
 Erie, and it has a great and growing trade. The popu- 
 lation in 1840, was 6,071, and is rapidly increasing. 
 
 Black Ria^er, 2S miles from Cleveland, is a small vil- 
 lage with a good harbor, and has considerable trade. 
 
 Vermilion, 10 miles further is a village of some trade, 
 situated at the mouth of a river of the same name. 
 
 Huron, 20 miles further, also stands at the mouth of 
 a river of the same name, with a good harbor. It con- 
 tains about 1,200 inhabitants, 15 stores, andS or 10 ware, 
 houses. 
 
 Sandusky, 10 miles further, and 259 miles from Buf- 
 falo, is a port of entry, and the capital of Erie county, 
 Ohio. It stands on the shore of Sandusky bay, fronting 
 the lake. The entire town is based ori a quarry of 
 
188 "WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 the finest building stone, which has been extensively 
 use! in its edifices. During the season of navigation, 
 eight or nine months, the wharves are thronged with 
 steamboats and other vessels. It contains about 1,500 
 inhabitants, 3 splendid churches, 30 stores of different 
 kinds, and a ship-yard, for building steamboats and other 
 lake craft. 
 
 Toledo, 50 miles from Sandusky, and 309 miles from 
 Buflalo, stands on the west bank of Maumee river, near 
 its entrance into Maamee bay, at the south end of Lake 
 Erie. It contains a population of about 1,500; 40 or 50 
 stores, and several extensive manufacturing establish- 
 ments. 
 
 Steamboats run direct from Buffalo to this place, and 
 Perrysburg, at the head of steamboat navigation on 
 the Maumee river, 18 miles from the light-house on the 
 lake sliore. 
 
 ■•'A railroad is finished from Toledo to Adrian, 33 miles; 
 and the Wabash and Erie canal is now completed from 
 Lake Erie to La Fayette, a point on the Wabash, to 
 Avhich steamboats ascend from the Ohio river. As boats 
 cannot, however, ascend to La Fayette, except in com- 
 paratively high water, the canal is to be continued down 
 the Wabash 81 miles to Terre Haute, where the National 
 road crosses the river Much is already done on the ca- 
 nal south of La Fayette. 
 
 ^'A traveller wishing to go from Buffalo to St. Louis, 
 can do so by the above route in six days, after the lake 
 and canal shall be in a navigable condition. It will re- 
 quire 30 hours to reach Toledo, 83 hours to Terre Haute, 
 and 30 hours by stage from thence to St. Louis across the 
 beautiful prairies of Southern Illinois, making in all 143 
 hours, or six days. We trust that the packet boat com- 
 panies on the Wabash and Erie canal will put down the 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 189 
 
 fare, as the saying is, ' to suite the times/ and all rea- 
 isonable efforts will be made to induce a large share of 
 the travel tVom Missouri, and the southern country, to 
 ISTew-York and Boston, to take this route." 
 
 Monroe, Michigan, 28 miles northwest of Toledo, 
 stands on the River Raisin, 2^ miles from its mouth. A 
 canal 100 feet wide, and 12 feet deep, extends from the 
 city to the lake, through which steamboats and other ves- 
 sels continually ply. Monroe contains a population of 
 about 2,000 ; a court-house and jail, 2 banks, a United 
 States land office, 7 churches, 20 or 30 stores, and several 
 Isirge manufacturing establishments. 
 
 Amherstburgh, Can. West, stands at the mouth of 
 the Detroit river, about half way between Monroe and 
 Detroit. It w^as known during the last war by the name 
 of Maiden. On the opposite side of the river is the bat- 
 tle ground of Brownstown^ where the Americans, under 
 disadvantageous circumstances, and with a slight loss, 
 routed the British forces, which lay in ambush, as the 
 former were on their way to relieve the fort at French- 
 town. 
 
 The City of Detkoit, on Detroit river, 372 miles 
 from Buffalo, and 675 miles from Chicago, by steamboat 
 route, is unsurpassed for beauty and advantages of lo- 
 cality, standing 30 feet above the water, with a fine view 
 of the surrounding country. It is admirably situated for 
 trade, and is fast rising in commercial importance. Th^ 
 navigation of the river and lake is open 8 or 9 months in 
 the year, during w^hich time steamboats and other vessels 
 are almost hourly arriving and departing for the different 
 ports on Lakes Erie, Huron, and Michigan. 
 
 Detroit was first settled by the French in 1683 ; and 
 now contains a population of about 10,000 inhabitants ; 
 a state house of brick^ this being the capital of the state 
 
190 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 of Michigan ; a city hall; 10 churches; 4 banking houses; 
 a United States land office ; a theatre and museum ; 3 
 markets ; a state penitentiary ; a government magazine, 
 and a mechanic's hall ; various charitable and other in- 
 stitutions, besides 12 public schools. 
 
 The Central Railroad of Michigan, "is now finished 
 for 80 miles ; and when completed will extend to St. Jo- 
 seph, on Lake Michigan, 194 miles from Detroit. There 
 is now a line of public conveyance on this route to Chi- 
 cago, running through in about 40 hours; 80 miles being 
 by railroad cars ; 120 by stage ; and 69 by steamboat, 
 across Lake Michigan. The Detroit and Pontiac Rail- 
 road is 25 miles long. 
 
 WiiMDSoa, on the opposite side of the river, in Cana- 
 da, is the western termination of the stage route extend- 
 ing to Hamilton and Queenston. This is a favorite route 
 while navigation is closed. 
 
 Lake St. Clair, 30 miles long and 24 wide, com- 
 mences 7 miles above Detroit; it is 90 miles in circum- 
 ference and 20 feet deep. Its banks are alluvial, and ele- 
 vated 20 feet above the water. Clinton river enters from 
 Michigan, and the Thames and other streams from the 
 Canada side. From thence the river St. Clair, 40 miles 
 long, extends northerly to 
 
 Fort Gratiot, 70 miles from Detroit, and at the 
 foot of Lake Huron, on the west side of St. Clair river. 
 ♦ it was built in 1814, and consists of a stockade, enclos- 
 ing a magazine, barracks, and other accommodations for 
 a garrison of one battalion. 
 
 Lake Huron, through which runs the boundary be- 
 tween the United States and Canada, is about 218 miles 
 long and 180 broad, though its irregular form renders it 
 difficult to determine this with much precision. It re- 
 ceives the waters of Lake Superior through the straits of 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 191 
 
 St. Mary, and of Lake Michigan, through the straits of 
 Michilimackinac, and discharges its over surplus into 
 Lake Erie, through the St. Clair and Detroit rivers. On 
 the north part of this lake are the Manitoulin Islands, 
 the largest of which is 80 miles long. 
 
 Point aux Babquji-s, 130 miles from Detroit, is aS 
 the south entrance of Saginaw bay, which extends many 
 miles inland, toward the west. 
 
 Thunder Bay, 75 miles further, contains a great 
 number of islands, on one of which is a light-house. It 
 is sometimes called Thousand Island Bay. 
 
 Presqtje Isle, 30 miles, is situate on the northeast 
 point ot the peninsula of Michigan, where the lake in- 
 clines towards the west. 
 
 Mackinac, 295 miles from Detroit, and 380 from 
 Chicago, is delightfully situated on the southeast ex- 
 tremity of an island of the same name in the straits of 
 Michilimackinac. It contains a eourt-house and jail, 2 
 churches, 10 stores and several public houses. Fori 
 Mackinac stands on a rocky eminence, 150 feet imme- 
 diately above the village, which, together with the har- 
 bor, it commands. This is a!delightful residence during 
 warm weather, the air being freshened and cooled by the 
 water and by" gentle winds, rendering the place a favorite 
 resort for invalids. Here also is a great fishery; over 
 3,5000 barrels of trout and white fish being annualb' ex- 
 ported ,- and it is the mart of an extensive fur trade, 
 being for ages a favorite resort of Indians. A steamboat 
 runs from Mackinac to Green Bay, at the head of which, 
 in Wisconsin, is an important settlement. After leaving 
 Mackinac, and entering Lake Michigan, several islands 
 are passed in succession, the largest of which is Beaver 
 Island, 
 
192 WESTERN TOUR. 
 
 The Manitou Islands, SO miles frcm Mackinac, lie 
 on the east side of Lake Michigan, opposite the mouth 
 of Green Bay, a large and important body of water. 
 
 Lake Michigan, the largest lake which lies wholly 
 in the United States, is about 330 miles long and 60 broad. 
 Its waters are deep, and it afford? excellent fish, which 
 are annually taken in large quantities and constitute an 
 important item in the trade of that region. 
 
 Mimvaukie, in Wisconsin, 300 miles from Mackinac, 
 is on the west side of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of 
 the MiJwaukie river. It contains a court-house and jail, 
 a United States land office, 3 churches, and about 3,000 
 inhabitants. Steamboats and sail vessels ply between 
 this place and Buffalo, and from its rich and extensive 
 back country, it is likely to grow rapidly and become a 
 place of much importance. 
 
 Racine, 20 miles south of Milwaukie, and at the 
 mouth of Root river, contains a court-house and jail, 10 
 or 12 stores and about 500 inhabitants. 
 
 SouTHPORT, 12 miles further, on the west side of the 
 lake, contains about 500 inhabitants and several stores. 
 
 The City or Chicago, in Illinois, 48 miles still fur> 
 ther south, is beautifully situated on level ground, on 
 both sides of the river Chicago. It extends along the 
 lake shore for a mile. An artificial harbor has been 
 formed by the construction of piers on each side of the 
 entrance of the river, for some distance into the lake. 
 This is a rapidly growing and important place, with 
 numerous steamboats and other vessels employed in ac- 
 tive and profitable trade with Buffalo, and the various 
 intermediate ports on the Upper Lakes. It contains 5 or 
 6,000 inhabitants ; the public buildings for Cook county ; 
 a United States land office ; 8 churches, and several well 
 kept public houses. No place in the Union has probably 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 193 
 
 exceeded Chicago ia its rapid growth and the increase of 
 its trade. It is the central mart of the rich agricultural 
 section of northern Illinois, and a part of Wicsonsin. 
 The Michigan and Illinois Canal, now constructing 
 from this place to the navigable waters of the Illinois 
 river, will add much to its importance and give a new 
 and powerful impulse to its growth, 
 
 Michigan CitYj Indiana^ standing at the head of 
 Lake Michigan, and at the mouth of Trail Creek, was 
 laid out in 1835, It now contains about 800 inhabitants, 
 and is no doubt destined to become a place of very consi- 
 derable importance. 
 
 St. Joseph, Michigan, opposite Chicago, stands at 
 the mouth of the St. Joseph river, and is the proposed 
 termination of the Central Railroad, running through 
 Michigan from Detroit, a distance of about 200 miles. 
 A line of steamboats, stages, and railroad cars, now run 
 over this route, from Chicago to Detroit, affording a 
 choice of conveyances, and great facilities for travel and 
 correspondence. 
 
 Green Bay is in the Territory of Wisconsin, Con- 
 necting with Lake Michigan at the northwestern bend of 
 the latter, by a wide opening, or straits, the Bay stretches 
 southward about 100 miles, with a breadth varying from 
 15 to 30 miles, and lying nearly parallel with the north 
 segment of the lake. Its broad entrance, for some 30 
 miles, is traversed by a succession of islands, called, 
 from their position, Traverse Islands, The Bay is navi- 
 gable by vessels of 200 tons burden, to its southern ex- 
 tremity, or head, where it receives the waters of Fox 
 river, at the mouth of which is a flourishing town, with 
 a population of nearly 2,000, surrounded by a fertile and 
 beautiful region, and where the United States have a 
 Land Office, The head waters of the Fox river inter- 
 
i94 WESTERN TOUK, 
 
 lock with those of the Wisconsin, at a very short dis- 
 tance apart, and in vjery high freshets boats have often 
 passed from one to the other. A short canal v^^ould make 
 the connection perfect at all times, aad would thus give 
 an unbroken navigation from the great lakes through 
 Green Bay, Fox river and the Wisconsin, to the Missis- 
 sippi at Prairie du Chien, 300 miles below the Falls 
 of St. Anthony, and 600 miles above St. Louis. Green 
 Bay contains several islands about midway its length, 
 and at its northwestern curve it receives the Menominee 
 river, which flows in from the northwest, and forms the 
 boundary between the Wisconsin Territory and that por- 
 tion of Michigan which lies between it and Lake Su- 
 perior. 
 
 Sault de St. Makie, or St. Mary's Falls, is the 
 name of the settlement on the American shore of the St. 
 Mary's River, about 15 miles below Lake Superior, at 
 the rapids, which are three-fourths of a mile long, with 
 a descent of some 23 feet. The entire fall of the river, 
 which is 60 miles long, from Lake Superior to its en- 
 trance into Lake Huron, is about 50 feet. It is contem- 
 plated to cut a ship canal round the falls, or sault, (he 
 river being navigable in all the rest of its course. Such 
 a canal, by enabling steamers and all other lake vessels 
 to pass into Lake Superior, and thus opening the naviga- 
 tion of that great inland sea, would serve most efficiently 
 to promote the settlement of Upper Michigan, and the 
 regions bordering on Lake Superior, would enhance the 
 value of the national domains, particularly of the cop- 
 per and lead districts, and would be the pioneer of incal- 
 culable benefits to the whole Union, as well as to a vast 
 but secluded country, not yet accommodated with the 
 means of constant and permanent intercourse and traffic 
 
 JL. 
 
WESTERN TOUR. 195 
 
 with the great lake states, and the great markets of the 
 sea-board. 
 
 The settlement, or village of St. Mary, ife on the site 
 of an old French fort, and is an elevated and pleasant po- 
 sition. It contains a court-house, 3 churches, a trading 
 house of the American Fur Company and several other 
 stores. A post belonging to the United States, called 
 Fort Brady, is also established here, and has a garrison 
 of United States troops. The population, made up of 
 Americans, Frenchmen, Indians and half-breeds, amounts 
 usually to about 1,000, and occasionally a much greater 
 number, when the Indians and other trappers and hun- 
 ters come in with their peltry, for the purposes of trade, 
 and to receive their annuities. 
 
 Lake Superior, supposed to be the largest body of 
 fresh water in the world, is about 380 miles long and 130 
 wide, and about 1,400 miles in circumference. It is sur- 
 rounded mostly by a rocky and uneven coast, and con- 
 tains many considerable islands, one of the largest of 
 which. Isle Royal, is about 100 miles long and 40 miles 
 broad. Its waters abound with fish, particularly trout, 
 sturgeon, and white-fish, which are caught at all seasons 
 and in large quantities. Of these the trout, weighing from 
 12 to 50 pounds, and the white fish, weighing often over 
 20 pounds, are perhaps the most important. The storms 
 on this lake are almost equal to those on the Atlantic — 
 its waves run as high, and its navigation is probably more 
 dangerous. Its surface is elevated 625 leet above the 
 level of the sea, and its mean depth is 900 feet. Its wa- 
 ters are remarkably clear and transparent. It receives 
 more than thirty rivers, and discharges its surplus into 
 Lake Huron, by the straits, or river of St. Mary. The 
 boundary lines between the United States and the British 
 Possessions pass through the middle of this, as of the 
 
196 WESTERN TOLR. 
 
 Other great lakedy from its outlet, the St. Mary, most of 
 the distance, but t(S>vard the westerly segment of the Isle 
 Royal, giving that island to the United States, and then 
 inclining southwesterly to the mouth of Pigeon river. 
 
 The Pictured Rocks, on its south shore, toward the 
 east end of the lake, are a great curiosity, forming an 
 immense perpendicular wall 300 feet high and extending 
 about 12 miles, with frequent and vast caverns along 
 their base, into which waters roll, especially in storms, 
 with a tremendous roar. At one place a considerable 
 stream is thrown from them into the lake, by a single 
 burst, from the height of 70 feet, and boats can pass 
 between it and the rocks ,• at another place four enormous 
 piers of rocks support a vast stratum, or entablature oi 
 stone, covered with soil, on which stand trees of spruce 
 and pine, some of which are 50 or 60 feet high. This is 
 called the Doric Rock, or Arch, and it appears like an 
 achievement of Art, though it is the work of Nature. 
 
THE FIIIST VESSEL WHICH NAVIGATED THE 
 WESTERN LAKES. 
 
 The followin 2 account, which we extract from Hunt's 
 Merchants' Magazine, is translated from an old French 
 vvork, printed in 1688, entitled, '* An Account of the 
 Discovery of a very great Country situated in America," 
 •by Father Hennepin. It will be read with interest : 
 
 It now became necessary for La Sal(p, in furtherance 
 of his object, to construct a vessel above the Falls of 
 Niagara, sufficiently large to transport the men and goods 
 necessary to carry on a profitable trade with the savages 
 residing on the western lakes. On the 22d of January, 
 1679, they went six miles above the falls to the moulh 
 ■of a small creek, and there built a dock convenient for 
 Che construction of their vessel.* 
 
 On the 26th of January, the keel and other pieces be- 
 ing ready, La Salle requested Father Hennepin to drive 
 the first bolt, but the modesty of the good father's pro- 
 fession prevented. 
 
 During the rigorous winter. La Salle determined to re- 
 turn to Fort Frontenac ;t and leaving the dock in charge 
 of an Italian named Chevalier Tuti, he started, accom- 
 panied by Father Hennepin as far as Lake Ontario ; from 
 whence he traversed the dreary forests to Frontenac on 
 
 * There can be bxit little doubt Ihnt the place they selected for 
 buildhig their bark, was the mouth of the Cayuga Creek, about 
 six miles above the falls, (rovernor Cass s.iys " the vessel was 
 launched at Erie;" Schoolcraft, m his journal, says, "near Buf- 
 falo;" and the historian Bancroft locates the site at the mouth 
 of Tonawanda creek. Hennepin s;iys the mouth of the creek was 
 two leiigues above the great falls ; the mouth of the Tonawanda 
 IS more than twice that distance, and the Cayuga is the on!|r 
 stream that answers to the description. 
 
 I Now Kiiigston, Canada. 
 
 O 
 
198 NAVIGATION 01* THE 
 
 foot, with only two companions and a dog which drew 
 his baggage on a sled, subsisting on nothing but parched 
 corn, and even that failed him two days journey from the 
 fort. In the mean time the building of the vessel went 
 on under the suspicious eyes of the neighboring savages, 
 although the most part of them had gone to war beyond 
 Lake Erie. One of them, feigning intoxication, attempt^ 
 ed the life of the blacksmith, who defended himself suc- 
 cessfully with sUfkd hot bar of iron. The timely warning of 
 a friendly sqaw averted the burning of their vessel on the 
 stocks, which was designed by the savages. The work-' 
 men were almost disheartened by frequent alarms, and 
 would have abandoned the work had they not been cheered 
 by the good father, who represented the great advantage 
 their perseverance would afford, and how much their 
 success would redound to the glory of God. These and 
 other inducements accelerated the work, and the vessel 
 wassoonready to be launched, though not entirely finished. 
 Chanting Te Deum, and firing three guns, they commit-- 
 ted her to the river amid cries of joy, and swung their 
 hammocks in security from the wild beasts and still more 
 dreaded Indians. 
 
 When the Senecas returned from their expedition tliey 
 were greatly astonished at the floating fo?t, "which struck 
 terror among all the savages who lived on the great lake* 
 and rivers within fifteen hundred miles." Hennepin as' 
 cended the river in a bark canoe with one of his com- 
 panions as far as Lake Erie. They twice pulled the ca-' 
 noe up the rapids, and sounded the lake for the purpose' 
 of ascertaining the depth. He reported that with a fa- 
 vorable north or northwest wind the vessel could ascend 
 to the lake, and then sail without difficulty, over its 
 whole extent. Soon after the vessel vras launched in the 
 current of Niagara about foar amd a half miles froBfti the 
 
WESTERN LAKES. 199 
 
 lake. Hennepin left it for Fort Frontenac, and returning 
 with La Salle and two other fathers, Gabriel and Zeno- 
 be Mambre, anchored in the Niagara the 30th July, 
 1679. On the 4th of August, they reached the dock 
 where the ship was built, which he calls distant eighteen 
 miles from Lake Ontario, and proceeded from thence in 
 a bark canoe, to their vessel, which they found at anchor 
 three miles from the " beautiful Lake Erie." 
 
 The vessel was of 60 tons burthen, completely rigged, 
 and found with all the necessaries, arms, provisions and 
 merchandize ; it had seven small pieces of cannon on 
 board, two of which were of brass. There was a griffinj 
 flying at the jib boom, and an eagle above. There were 
 also all the ordinary ornaments and other fixtures which 
 usually grace a ship of war. 
 
 They endeavored many times to ascend the current of 
 the Niagara into Lake Erie without success, the wind not 
 being strong enoiigh. Whilst they were thus detained, 
 La Salle employed a few of his men in clearing some 
 land on the Canadian shore, opposite the vessel, and in 
 sowing some vegetable seeds for the benefit of those who 
 might inhabit the place. 
 
 At length the wind being favorable, they lightened the 
 vessel by sending most of the crew on shore, and with 
 the aid of their sails and ten or a dozen men at the tow- 
 lines, ascended the current into Lake Erie. Thus on the 
 7th of August, 1679, the first vessel set sail on the un- 
 tried waters of Lake Erie. They steered southwest, after 
 having chanted their never failing Te Deum, and dis- 
 charged their artillery in the presence of a vast number 
 of Seneca warriors. It had been reported to our voya- 
 gers that Lake Erie was full of breakers and sand banks, 
 whic h rendered a safe navigation impossible ; they there- 
 fore kept the lead going, sounding from time to time. 
 
200 NAVIGATION OF THK 
 
 After sailing, without difficulty, through Lake Erie, 
 they arrived on the 11th of August at the mouth of the 
 Detroit river, sailing up v^hich they arrived at Lake St. 
 Clair, to vi^hich they gave the name it bears. After be- 
 ing detained several days by contrary v^'inds at the bot- 
 tom of the St. Clair river, they at length succeeded in 
 entering Lake Huron, on the 23d of August, chanting 
 Te Deum through gratitude for a safe navigation thus far. 
 Passing along the eastern shore of the lake, they sailed 
 with a fresh and favorable wind until evening, when the 
 wind suddenly veered, driving them across Saginaw Bay, 
 (Sacinaw.) The stormed raged until the 24th, and was 
 succeeded by a calm, which continued until next day 
 noon, (25th,) when they pursued their course until mid- 
 night. As they doubled a point which advanced into the 
 lake, they were suddenly struck by a furious wind, which 
 forced them to run behind the cape for safety. On the 
 26th, the violence of the storm compelled them to send 
 down their top-masts and yards, and to stand in, for they 
 could find neither anchorage or shelter. 
 
 It was then the stout heart of La Salle failed him, the 
 whole crew fell upon their knees to say their prayers and 
 prepare for death, except the pilot, whom they could not 
 compel to follow their example, and who on the contra- 
 ry " did nothing all that time but curse and swear against 
 M. La Salle, who had brought him thither to make him 
 perish in a nasty lake, and lose the glory he had acquired 
 by his long and happy navigation on the ocean." On the 
 27th, favored with less adverse winds, they arrived dur- 
 ing the night at Michillimackinack and anchored in the 
 bay, where they report six fathoms of water and a clay 
 bottom. This bay they state is protected on the south- 
 west, west and northwest, but open to the south. The 
 
WESTERN LAKES, 201 
 
 savages were struck dumb with astonishment at the size 
 of their vessel, and the noise of their guns. 
 
 Here they regaled themselves on the delicious trout, 
 which th€y described as being from 50 to 60 lbs. in weight 
 and as affording the savages their principal subsistence. 
 On the 2d of September, they left Mackinao, entered 
 Lake Michigan, (IlJinois,) and sailed 40 leagues to an 
 islani at the mouth of the Bay of Puara, (Green Bay.) 
 From this place La Salle determined to send back the 
 ship laden with furs to Niagara. The pilot and five men 
 embarked in her, and on the 10th she fired a gun and set 
 sail on her return with a favorable wind. Nothing more 
 was heard from her, and she undoubtedly foundered in 
 Lake Huron, with all on board. Her cargo was rich, 
 and valued at 60,000 livres. 
 
 Thus ended the first voyage of the first ship that sailed 
 over the Western Lakes. What a contrast is presented 
 between the silent waves and unbroken forests which wit- 
 nessed the course of that adventurous bark, and the busy 
 hum of commerce which now rises from the fertile bot- 
 toms, and the thousand ships and smoking palaces which 
 now furrow the surface of those inland seas ! 
 
 The first vessel bearing the American flag upon Lake 
 Erie, was the sloop Detroit, of 70 tons, built in 1796. 
 
 In 1797 the schooner Wilkinson, of Detroit, was built; 
 her capacity was 80 tons. 
 
 In 1300 the Good Intent, of 35 tons was built ; she was 
 wrecked in 1806. 
 
 In 1799, the government built the " John Adams" and 
 "Tracy." 
 
 In 1305, the schooner Nancy was built by the United 
 States at Black Rock. 
 
 In 1S06, the " Contractor" was built by Porter, Bar- 
 ton & Co. 
 
292 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 
 
 la 1810, the " Catherine" was built. 
 
 In 1818, the first steamboat, " Walk- in- the- Water," 
 was built at Black Rock ■ at which time there were, in 
 ail, about thirty sail of vessels on the Upper Lakes. 
 
 In 1824, two new steamboats were built. 
 
 In 1825, three more were added ; from this period to 
 1832, four steamboats were built, and the whole number 
 of steamboats in 1841, was upwards of fifty, and the 
 number of sailing vessels little short of three hundred. 
 
 We copy from the Buffalo Commercial Adverti- 
 ser of May 3, 1843, the following : 
 
 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 
 
 The present month completes a quarter of a century 
 since the first steamer was launched upon the western 
 lakes. During that period changes of vast magnitude 
 have been efl'ected by the application of the mighty agent 
 steam. Dense forests which frowned from the margin of 
 these great lakes have been felled to give place to thriving 
 villages, and the moody aboriginal occupant who gazed 
 with wonderment at the approach of the ponderous vehi- 
 cle has become extinct, or is known only as a wanderer 
 beyond the limits of the Mississippi. Changes like these 
 have characterized the introduction of steam upon the 
 lakes, and the independent, inquiring spirit which so 
 distinctly marks the habits of the people of this country, 
 has kept pace with the progress of steam westwardly, 
 and developed the fertility and abounding resources of 
 the prairies, until they have become the granary of the 
 world. 
 
 Of those who early participated in the effort to build 
 up this new commerce, but few remain ; still they have 
 vivid recollections of the undertaking, attended as it was 
 by a heavy outlay and much solicitude for its consumma- 
 
STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 
 
 203 
 
 tion. To them, if not to these now actively engaged in 
 its prosecution, a list of steamers down to the present 
 season must be interesting, and we have at no inconside- 
 rable time and trouble, been enabled to make up the ta- 
 ble below. In arranging it we have endeavored to be 
 correct, but may have fallen into mistakes, in consequence 
 of the want of official data. Should such be the case, 
 those at the west who have records as authority, will 
 make corrections and call attention in some suitable man- 
 ner, as we ^re desirous to obtain such information. The 
 list of boatSj^with place and date of building, together 
 with their tonnage, will be found annexed. 
 
 NAME. TONS, CLASS 
 
 Low 
 
 TONS, 
 
 Walk-in-the- Water, . 342 
 
 Superior,.. 300 Low 
 
 Chippewa, 100 Low 
 
 Henry Clay, 348 Low 
 
 Pioneer, 230 High 
 
 Niagara, 180 Low 
 
 William Penn, 275 Low 
 
 Enterprise, 250 High 
 
 Peacock, 120 High 
 
 Newburyport, 75 High 
 
 Thompson, 242 Low 
 
 Ohio, 187 High 
 
 Adelaide, 230 Low 
 
 Gratiot, ....'. 63 High 
 
 Pennsylvania, 395 High 
 
 New-York, 325 High 
 
 Brady, 100 High 
 
 Uncle Sam, 280 Low 
 
 Perseverance, ...... 50 High 
 
 Washington, (1st)... 609 Low 
 
 Michigan, 472 Low 
 
 Daniel Webster, .... 358 Low 
 
 Detroit, 240 High 
 
 Lady of the Lake,. . . 60 High 
 
 Gov. Marcy, 161 Low 
 
 North America, 362 High 
 
 Newberry, . 170 High 
 
 Delaware, 170 High 
 
 WHERE AND WHEN BUILT. 
 
 Black Rock,. . . 1818 
 
 Buffalo, 1822 
 
 " 1824 
 
 Black Rock,. . . 1825 
 
 1829 
 
 " ... 1826 
 
 Erie, " 
 
 Cleveland, . 
 Barcelona, . 
 
 Erie, 
 
 Huron, 1830 
 
 L. Sandusky,. . '' 
 
 Chippewa, ... " 
 
 Charleston, ... 1831 
 
 Erie, 1832 
 
 Black Rock,. . . " 
 
 Detroit, " 
 
 Gros Isle, " 
 
 Erie, '' 
 
 Huron, 1833 
 
 Detroit, " 
 
 Black Rock,... " 
 
 Toledo, '' 
 
 Mt. Clemens,,. *' 
 
 Black Rock,. . . '' 
 
 Conneaut,. . 9. . " 
 
 Palmer, " 
 
 HuroDj , *' 
 
204 
 
 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 
 
 NAME. TOKS. CLASS. 
 
 Victorj', 77 Low 
 
 Gen. Porter, 342 Low 
 
 Jefferson, = 428 Low 
 
 Com. Perry, 352 High 
 
 Monroe. = 341 Hisfh 
 
 Mazeppa 130 High 
 
 Sandusky, 377 Low 
 
 Minnessetunk, » 250 Low 
 
 Jackson, 50 High 
 
 Jack Downing, 80 High 
 
 Little Western, 60 High 
 
 Kobert Fulton, 308 High 
 
 Columbus,.., 391 High 
 
 Charles To wnsend,. . 312 Low 
 
 United States, 366 High 
 
 Chicago, 166 High 
 
 W. F. P. Taylor, 95 High 
 
 Thames 160 High 
 
 DeWitt Clinton, 493 High 
 
 Julia Palmer, 300 Low 
 
 Little Erie. 149 Low 
 
 Barcelona, 102 Low 
 
 United 37 High 
 
 St. Clair, 250 High 
 
 Don Quixotie, 80 High 
 
 Crockett, 18 High 
 
 Cincinnati, 116 High 
 
 Illinois, 755 Low 
 
 Rochester, 472 High 
 
 Madison, 630 Hisjh 
 
 Cleveland, 530 Low 
 
 Wisconsin, 700 Low 
 
 Erie, 497 Low 
 
 Constellation, 483 Low 
 
 Bunker Hill, 457 High 
 
 Constitution, 443 High 
 
 New England, 416 Low 
 
 Milwaukie, 401 Low 
 
 Anthony VVayne,. . . 390 High 
 
 Macomb, 101 High 
 
 Star, 128 High 
 
 Commerce, 80 High 
 
 Mason, 33 High 
 
 Greet We.stern,. 780 High 
 
 WHERE AND WHEN BCILT, 
 
 Buffalo, 1834 
 
 Black Hock,. .. " 
 
 Erie, " 
 
 Perrysburgh, . . " 
 
 Monroe, " 
 
 Buffalo, " 
 
 Sandusky, *' 
 
 Goderich, " 
 
 Mt. Clemens,.. " 
 
 Sandusky, *' 
 
 Chatham, " 
 
 Clevelani.... 1835 
 
 Huron,.. T^. '* 
 
 Buffalo, " 
 
 Huron, " 
 
 St. Josephs,. . . " 
 
 Silver Creek,.. ** 
 
 Chatham, " 
 
 Huron, 1836 
 
 Buffalo, " 
 
 Detroit " 
 
 DunviUe, " 
 
 Detroit, " 
 
 Sandusky, .... '' 
 
 Toledo, ", 
 
 Brunersburgh, . '* 
 
 Sandusky, " 
 
 Detroit, 1837 
 
 Richmond, .... " 
 
 Erie,...*. *' 
 
 Huron, " 
 
 Conneaut, " 
 
 Erie, " 
 
 Charleston,.... " 
 
 Conneaut, " 
 
 Black Rock,. . . ♦' 
 
 Grand Island,. *' 
 
 Perrysburgh. . . " 
 
 Mt. Clemens,.. " 
 
 Belvidere, '* 
 
 Sandusky, " 
 
 Grand Rapids,. " 
 
 Huron, 1838 
 
STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 
 
 205 
 
 NAME. TONS. 
 
 Buffalo, 613 
 
 Chesapeake, 412 
 
 Vermilion, 385 
 
 Lexington, 363 
 
 Fairport, . , . , 259 
 
 Red Jacket, 148 
 
 Vance, 75 
 
 James Allen, 258 
 
 Washington (2d) , . . . 3S0 
 
 Dole, 162 
 
 Trowbridge, 52 
 
 Marshall, 51 
 
 Owashenonk, . .. =, — 45 
 
 Patronage, 56 
 
 Gen. Scottj..,. 240 
 
 Chantauque, 161 
 
 Brothers, 150 
 
 Kent, 180 
 
 Huron, 140 
 
 Harrison, (1st) ..... 63 
 
 Missouri, 612 
 
 Harrison, (2d) 326 
 
 Waterloo, 98 
 
 Minos, 400 
 
 Indiana, 534 
 
 Franklin, 231 
 
 Nile, 600 
 
 Union, . .^ 64 
 
 Caroline,' (re-built,) . 46 
 
 CLASS. WHERE AND WHEN TUILT. 
 
 Low Buffalo, 1838 
 
 Low Maumee City,, '* 
 High Vermilion, .... *' 
 
 Low Charleston, '' 
 
 High Fairport, " 
 
 Low Grandlsland,. . *' 
 High Perrysburgh, . . '' 
 
 Low Chicago, *' 
 
 High Ashtabula, " 
 
 High Chicago, ... '^ 
 High Kalamazoo,... '* 
 High Perrysburgh, . . '' 
 Hish Grand Haven,. " 
 High St. Joseph, ... '' 
 
 High Huron, 1839 
 
 Low Buffalo, '* 
 
 High Chatham, ..... '* 
 
 High Chatham...... '' 
 
 High Newport, ...... " 
 
 High Erie, . ' •* 
 
 High Vermilion, 1840 
 
 High Maumee City,. '•' 
 Low Black Reck,. . . '* 
 Chippewa, .... '^ 
 
 Toledo, 1S4I 
 
 Aigonac, 1842 
 
 Detroit, 1843 
 
 Black Rock,. . . '* 
 
 Low 
 Low 
 High 
 Low 
 High 
 Low 
 
 Ogdensburgh,. . 1824 
 Besides the above list, there are a few small boats of 
 which nothing is known other than their names. Amcn» 
 these are t'.ie Pantanguishane, Cynthia, Pontiac,and Phe- 
 nomenon, making with those above*given, an aggregate of 
 27,000 tons, at a total cost of $3,510,000. One hundred 
 and thirty dollars a ton being what w^e deem true data^ 
 for building and fitting out this description cf vessels. 
 
 In examining the progress of steam as applied in propel- 
 ling vessels on the lakes, we are struck with the very 
 small number of disasters when compared with other sec. 
 tions of the country, especially on the western waters^ 
 
206 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 
 
 i 
 
 In the whole period of 25 years, there have been but four 
 explosions which might be termed serious. It is true 
 there are other disasters to record, whose calamitous de- 
 tails are too freshly impressed upon the publicmind. The 
 following tabular view presents both these classes : 
 
 EXPLOSIONS. LIVES LOST. BURNED. LIVES LOST. 
 
 Peacock, Sept. 1830, 15 Washington, 2d, Je. '38 50 
 
 Adelaide, June. 1830,. . . 3 Erie, August, 1841, ..250 
 
 Erie, August, 1840, 6 Vermilion, Nov. 1842, 5 
 
 Perry, iwuce in 1835,... 6 Caroline, (wilful).... 5 
 
 Total, 30 310 
 
 The incidental disasters, such as collisions, wrecks, &c. 
 are as follows: Walk- in- the- Water, wrecked in gale in 
 our offing, Nov. 1, 1821, total loss. Washington, (1st) 
 wrecked in a gale near Long Point, 1833. She was a 
 splendid new boat, cost $60,000, and the first season out 
 — totally lost — one m.^n drowned. Delaware, totally lost 
 in a gale near Chicago, in 1834. Crockett, totally lost in 
 a gale near St. Joseph, 1834. Detroit, ashore near South- 
 port, on Lake Michigan, 1836 — total. Adelaide, ashore 
 in a gale on Lake Michigan, 1840 — totally lost. Taylor, 
 at Michigan City, 1838, totally lost. Don Quixotte, lost 
 in a gale on Lake Huron, 1836. Thames, burned by the 
 '^ Patriots" at Windsor, in 1838. Webster, burned to 
 the water's edge while lying up in our harbor, 11th Jan. 
 1835. The Taylor took fire near the mouth of Cattarau- 
 gus Creek, in the autumn of 1836, but the flames were 
 subdued in time to save the boat. One hand jumped 
 overboard and was drowned. Beside the explosions of 
 the Perry, she has had two collisions w^th other vessels, 
 in one of which a man was killed. The first season the 
 Great Western came out, she was burned (Sept. 1st, 
 1839) while lying at Detroit. She had been to Chicago, 
 and on returning across Lake St. Clair took fire, but the 
 
STATISTICS OF STEAMERS- 207 
 
 flames were apparently extinguished until reaching De- 
 troit, when they burst forth anew and consumed the boat 
 almost down to the water's edge. The Cynthia, a Cana- 
 dian ferry-boat, was burned near Maiden in Oct. 1838. 
 Minnessetunk sunk by collision with the Erie, near De- 
 troit. She has been raised, enlarged, and is now known 
 as the Goderich. Little Western, burned at Detroit last 
 season. Macomb, ashore in a gale, mouth of Detroit ri- 
 ver, last fall. Niagara, by collision with some other 
 boat, at Huron. Ohio, sunk at Toledo, in 1837. Little 
 Erie, lost in the ice last fall near Detroit, total. The 
 Sandusky, consumed by fire while lying up in our har- 
 bor last February. 
 
 Of the old boats which have gradually gone to decay, 
 we note the following: Chippewa, Henry Clay, Enter- 
 prise, and Pioneer, in this harborj Peacock and Pennsyl- 
 vania at Erie; Marcy and Brady at Detroit; Thompson 
 at Huron; Newberry at Maumee city; Perseverance at 
 Monroe; Uncle Sam at Charleston, with some of the 
 smaller boats whose whereabouts are not distinctly 
 known. Many of the larger class of boats, but seldom 
 used of late, are laid up in ordinary at the places nam- 
 ed: Webster, Townsend, New- York, Star, and Monroe 
 at this port; Jefferson at Erie; United States at Cleve- 
 land; Michigan at Detroit; Milwaukie at Milwaukie. 
 The Porter is now known as the Toronto, in the service 
 of the Canadian authorities; the Minos is the armed 
 steamer also in the same employ. The Superior was 
 long since dismantled and converted into a ship, and is 
 the only vessel of that description now on the lakes, the 
 Julia Palmer having been converted into a steamer, and 
 the Milwaukie lost in the disastrous gale of November 
 last, upon Lake Michigan. The Cincinnati, J. Downing, 
 Barcelona, and Mazeppa have also been converted into 
 
208 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 
 
 sail craft. The latter is known as the schooner General 
 Scott. The St. Clair was originally known as the Sagi. 
 naw, Rhode Island, &c. of only 160 tons. During the 
 past winter she was remodeled and enlarged at Detroit, 
 and now rates 250 ;tons. The Wisconsin was originally 
 490 tons, but now being lengthened sixty feet which will 
 add to her tonnage at least enough to meet the figures 
 given in the table. The Marshall is now running on 
 Lake Ontario, having passed through the Welland canal. 
 
 The Caroline, whose destruction filled so large a por- 
 tion of public notice, v^'^as originally known as the Caro- 
 lina, and is believed to have been built at Charleston, S. 
 C. at a very early date, as she was rebuilt at Ogdens- 
 burgh as given in the table. She was very strong built, 
 of Norway pine and copper fastened. Before passing 
 down the St. Lawrence, she ran a couple of seasons on 
 the Hudson, between Albany and Troy, when her guards 
 were shipped so as to admit her through the Erie canal. 
 The date of her destruction is at Schlosser, Niagara Co. 
 N. Y., 2ath December, 1337. 
 
 The number of boats yet remaining of the whole once 
 in commission on Lake Erie and the other upper lakes, 
 is about sixty, with an aggregate of 17,000 tons. Of 
 these, some thirty-five only are used v/hen the consolida- 
 tion is in existence. 
 
 Of the whole number of boats put in commission du- 
 ring the above period, only ten were built and owned in 
 Canada. 
 
 The first steamer known to be upon Lake Michigan 
 was the Henry Clay. In August, 1827, an excursion of 
 pleasure was made in her to Green Bay, where Governor 
 Cass was holding a treaty with the Winnebagoes. After 
 the treaty was concluded. Gov. C. and suite returned in 
 the Clay. From that period to 1832, some of the boats 
 
STATISTICS OF STEAMERS 209 
 
 went to Green Bay, but no further. On the breaking 
 ouc of the Black Hawk war, several of the larger boats 
 were chartered by government, to convey troops to the 
 disaffected territory, and Chicago for the first time was 
 greeted by the sight of one of those strange visiters. 
 
 The building of the propeller Hercules is the com- 
 mencement of a new era in lake navigation, and her own. 
 ers predict for that description of vessels a large share of 
 the carrying trade, especially upon the Upper Lakes. The 
 H. is 275 tons burthen, 137 feet long, 25 feet beam, 8 
 feet hold, and put together in the strongest manner. She 
 has 14 state-rooms, 6feet square, with sufficient addition- 
 al space for the erection of 46 berths more, and from the 
 peculiar symmetry of the H. she will doubtless afford 
 ample accommodations for families emigrating. Her 
 space below for storage is large, having almost the entire 
 hull of the vessel appropriated for that purpose. The 
 peculiar feature, however, of the Hercules, is her engine 
 and its auxiliaries. On examining the machinery, all are 
 struck with the infinite compactness of the steam appa= 
 ratus, and its perfect simplicity, the whole^weighing but 
 fifteen tons. The engine is simple and very small, lies 
 close upon the kelson, and fills but a space of six feet 
 square. It is one of Ericsson's patent, was made at Au- 
 burn and is computed to be of 50 horse power. 
 
 We might here remark that the weight of an engine 
 and boilers for one of our largest steamers is estimated at 
 from 60 to 70 tons — the dead weight of which a propeller 
 escapes carrying. The paddles are made of boiler iron, 
 I inch thick, 18 inches broad by 30, and are placed on 
 two long wrought iron shafts, protruding from either side 
 of the stern post. The diameter of the paddles are 6 
 feet 4 inches. From the superb manner in which the 
 Hercules is built and fitted out, having cost nearly $20,000 
 
•210 STATISTICS OF STEAMERS. 
 
 dollars, it is apparent that the enterprising proprietors 
 are determined to give the experiment a full and fair trial. 
 Another boat of the same tonnage, for the same owners. 
 is now being built at Perrysburgh, and will be out next 
 month. The Cleveland propeller was launched on the 
 22d ult. and the fourth vessel of the kind is rapidly pro- 
 gressing toward completion at Chicago. 
 
 Ten cords of wood, at a cost of $17, will suffice the 
 propeller per diemj while one of our largest steamers 
 will consume two cords per hour, at a cost of $80 a day. 
 Some of the steamers even exceed this calculation by 33 
 per cent 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 The most usual mode of conveyance from Buffalo to 
 the Falls of Niagara, and thence into Canada, is by rail- 
 road on the American side of Niagara river to the Falls, 
 thence to Levviston, where commodious steamers leave 
 several times daily for the different ports on Lake Ontario. 
 
 There is also another very desirable mode of convey- 
 ance, by steamboat, descending the Niagara river, from 
 Buffalo to Chippewa, Canada j thence by railroad, on 
 the Canadian shore, passing in full view of the Falls, to 
 Queenston, where the British steamboats land and re- 
 ceive passengers daily, during the season of navigation* 
 
 As the steamboat leaves Buffalo, on the latter route, 
 it affords a fine view of Lake Erie and both shores of the 
 river. On the Canada side, the first object of interest is 
 the ruins of old Fort Erie, captured by the Americans^ 
 July 3, 1814. It is situated at the foot of the lake, oppo-^ 
 site to the site of a strong fortress which the United States 
 government are now erecting, a little north from Buffalo 
 toward Black Rock. 
 
 Waterloo, in Canada, 3 miles from Buffalo and op-« 
 posite Black Rock, with which it is connected by a steam 
 ferry, is handsomely situated on the West side of Niagara 
 river, which is here about half a mile wide. 
 
 GraJtd Island, belonging to the Americans, is passed 
 to the left in descending the river, and is a large aad 
 Valuable tract of fine land, mostly covered with a heavy 
 forest, which abounds with white oak of a superior quali= 
 ty for ship timber, great quantities of which, within a 
 few years, have been sent to market on the sea-board, by 
 the Erie canaL 
 
212 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 Navy Island, belonging to the British, is next passed. 
 This island obtained great notoriety in the fall and winter 
 of 1837-8, when it w^as occupied by the ^'patriots," as 
 they were styled, during the troubles in Canada. The 
 steamer Caroline was destroyed on the night of Decem- 
 ber 29th, 1837, while lying at Schlosser's Landing, on 
 the American shore, having been engaged in ti-ansport- 
 ing persons to and from the island, which was soon after 
 evacuated. 
 
 Opposite Navy Island, on the Canada side near Chip- 
 pewa, is the house in which Capt. Usher resided when 
 murdered in 1838. It is supposed he fell by the hands of 
 some of the deluded patriots. 
 
 Chippewa, 20 miles below Buffalo, and 2 miles above 
 the Falls, is on the west side of Niagara river, at the 
 mouth of a creek of the same name, which is navigable 
 to Port Robinson, some 8 or 10 miles west ; the latter 
 place being on the line of the Welland canal. The vil- 
 lage of Chippewa contains a population of about 800 
 souls. It has obtained a place in history on account of 
 the bloody battle which was fought near it in the war of 
 1812, between the United States and Great Britain. The 
 battle was fought on the 5th of July, 1814, on the plains 
 a short distance south of the Chippewa Landing. The 
 American forces were commanded by Major Gen. Jacob 
 Brown, and the British, by Major General Riall, who, 
 after an obstinate and sanguinary fight, was defeated 
 with considerable loss. 
 
 At Chippewa commences a railroad, extending to 
 Queenston, a distance of 10 miles. Steamboats continue 
 the line of travel from both ends of this road, thus fur- 
 nishing an interesting and speedy conveyance between 
 Lakes Erie and Ontario. 
 
TOUR THROUGA CANADA. 213 
 
 On arriving in the vicinity of the Falls of Niagara, 
 •on the route from Chippev^a to Queenston, the railroad 
 cars stop opposite the Pavilion, a favorite public house 
 kept by Mr. Chrystler. 
 
 About half a mile below, near the ferry, is situated 
 the Clifton House, a well kept hotel. The site of this 
 house was chosen as giving the best view of both the 
 American, and Canadian or Horse Shoe Falls, which are 
 seen from the pia/./.as and every window in front. 
 
 In addition to the Falls, there are other points of at- 
 traction on the Canada side of the river. The collection 
 of curiosities at the Museum, and the Camera Obscura, 
 which gives an exact and beautiful, though miniature 
 image of the falls, are well worthy of a visit. The burn- 
 ing spring. 2 miles above the falls, is also much fre- 
 quented ; and the rides to the battle grounds in this vi- 
 cinity make an exhilarating and very pleasant excursion. 
 
 Drummondsville, one mile west of the Falls, and 
 situated on Lundy's Lane, is celebrated as the scene of 
 another sanguinary engagement between the American 
 and British forces, July 25, 1814. 
 
 The following is a brief, though correct account of the 
 engagement. " On the afternoon of the above day^ while 
 the American army was on their march from Fo?'t George 
 toward Fort Erie, ascending the west bank of the river, 
 their rear guard under the immediate command of Gen. 
 Scott, were attacked by the advanced guard of the British 
 army under Gen. Riall, the British having been reinforced 
 after their defeat at Chippevi^a, on the 5th of the same 
 month. This brought on a general conflict of the most 
 obstinate and deadly character. As soon as attacked, 
 Gen. Scott advanced with his division, amounting to 
 about 3,000 men, to the open ground facing the heights 
 occupied by the main British army, where were planted 
 
 P 
 
214 TOUR THROUGH CASTADA. 
 
 several heavy pieces of cannon. Between 8 and 9 o'clock 
 in the evening, on the arrival of reinforcements to both 
 armies, the battle became general and raged for several 
 hours, M'ith alternate success on both sides ; each army 
 evincing the most determined bravery and resistance. The 
 command of the respective forces was now assumed by 
 Maj. Gen. Brown, and Lieut. Gen. Drummond, each 
 having under his command a well disciplined ariTiy. The 
 brave (American) Col. Miller, was ordered to advance 
 and seize the artillery of the British, which he effected 
 at the point of the bayonet in the most gallant manner. 
 Gen. Riall, of the English army was captured, and the 
 possession of the battle ground contested until near mid- 
 night, when 1,700 men being either killed or wounded, 
 the conflicting armies, amounting altogether to about 
 6,000 strong, ceased the deadly conflict, and for a time 
 the bloody field was left unoccupied, except by the dead 
 and wounded. When the British discovered that the 
 Americans had encamped one or two miles distant, they 
 returned and occupied their former position. Thus ended 
 one of the most bloody conflicts that occurred during the 
 last war ; and while each party boasted a victory, alto- 
 gether too dearly bought, neither was disposed to renew 
 the conflict." 
 
 QuEENsroN, situated 8 miles below the Falls, and T 
 miles above the entrance of Niagara river into Lake On- 
 tario, lies directly opposite the village of Lewiston, with 
 which it is connected by a ferry. It contains about 450 
 inhabitants, 50 dwelling houses, 1 Episcopal, 1 Scotch 
 Presbyterian, and 1 Baptist church, 6 taverns, 4 stores 
 and 3 warehouses. This place is also celebrated as be- 
 ing the scene of a deadly strife between the American 
 and British forces, Oct. 13, 1812. The American troops 
 actually engaged in the fight, were commanded by Gen. 
 
TOUR THROUGH CAKADA. 215 
 
 Solomon Van Rensselaer, and both the troops and their 
 commander greatly distinguished themselves for their 
 bravery although ultimately overpowered by superior num- 
 bers. Tii attempting to regain their own side of the river 
 many of the Americans perished, the whole loss in killed^ 
 wounded and prisoners amounting to at least 1,000 men. 
 
 Gen. Brock, the British commander was killed in the 
 middle of the fight, while leading on his men. A monu- 
 ment stands on the heights, near where he fell, erected 
 to his memory. It is now very much dilapidated, hav- 
 ing beea shattered by gunpowder, April 17, 1840 ; an in- 
 famous act said to have been perpetrate'd by a ruffian of 
 tlie name of Lett, concerned in the insurrection of 1837. 
 
 The railroad to Chippewa, terminates on the south of 
 Queenston village, near the laonument. Passengers are 
 taken from the depot in c-arriages to the steamboat land- 
 ing, a short distance below, W'here steamboats depart 
 s.nd arrive several times daily, during the summer months. 
 
 Stage Route through Canada from Queenston to 
 Detboit. 
 
 The distance by th« above route is 260 miles. Usual time^ 
 2|days; fare $13.00. Stages leave Queenston, (opposite 
 Lewiston,) everyday at 8 o'clock A. M., passing through 
 St. Catharines, Hamilton, Brantford, Woodstock, Lon- 
 don and Chatham, to Windsor, opposite Detroit. Leav- 
 ing Windsor every morning at 8 o'clock, returning by the 
 same route. 
 
 By the above arrangement, a direct line is formed be- 
 tween Albaay and Chicago, a distance of 925 miles ; 
 through in 8 days. 
 
 The village of Niagaba, is advantageously situated on 
 the Canada side, at the entrance of the river into Lake On- 
 tario, directly opposite Fort Niagara, on the American 
 
216 TOUR THROUGH CANADA, 
 
 side. It contains about 2,000 inhabitants ; a court-house 
 and jail ; 1 Episcopal, 1 Presbyterian, 1 Methodist, and 
 1 Roman Catholic church } 10 hotels and taverns, and 20 
 stores of different kinds. This is the most noted place 
 in Canada West, for building steamboats and other craft 
 navigating Lake Ontario. Here is a Dock Yarsl with a 
 marine railway and foundery attached, capable of mak. 
 ing machinery of the largest description, and giving em- 
 ployment to a great number of men. It is owned by the 
 " Niagara Dock Company." 
 
 The Race Course at this place is in high repute among 
 the sporting gentry ; and the spring and fall races are 
 numerously attended. 
 
 Fort Gsorge, situated a short distance south or up- 
 stream from the mouth of the river, is now in ruins. 
 This was the scene of a severe contest in 1813, in which 
 the Americans were victorious, A new fort has been 
 erected on the point of land at the mouth of the river, 
 directly opposite old Fort Kiiagaraon the American side. 
 The new fortification is called Fort Massasauga. 
 
 The whole frontier on the Canada side, from Fort 
 George to Fori Erie, opposite Buffalo, was occupied by 
 the American army in 1814, when occurred a succession 
 of battles of the most determined and brilliant character. 
 Here the British regulars were met face to face at the 
 point of the bayonet, and vanquished on their own ground. 
 
 The Welland Canal, which unites the waters of 
 Lakes Erie and Ontario, is a work of great magnitude. 
 It enters Lake Ontario a few miles west of Niagara. 
 The entire work is now being enlarged, and though it 
 will probably not be completed till 1846, it will be navi- 
 gable in 1845, on the enlarged plan. At present there 
 are 32 locks ; but when the enlarged work is finished 
 there will only be 22, with a lift of from 12^ to 14 feet. 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 217 
 
 The locks on the old canal are made of wood ; the new 
 ■ones are of granite, made in the best manner. Those at 
 each entrance from the lakes are to be 185 feet long and 
 45 feet wide ; the other twenty, 150 feet long and 46^ 
 feet wide. The length of the canal will be 28 miles. 
 The vessels which will pass through the canal are to be 
 145 feet long and 26 feet wide, including all projections. 
 The schooners will generally be of the burthen of 450 
 tons. It is expected that the chief portion of the trade 
 will be done by the new fashioned steamers called " pro- 
 pellers." i\.t Port Maitland there is to be a graving dock, 
 which will be of importance both to the naval and mer- 
 cantile interest. 
 
 There are several places of growing importance on the 
 line of the Weiland canalj of which Port Maitlanb, 
 Port Robinson, and St. Catharine's, are the most 
 noted . 
 
 Hamilton, 50 miles west of Niagara, stands on Bur- 
 lington Bay, at the head of Lake Ontario, and 42 miles 
 from Toronto. It contains 4 or 5,000 inhabitants; a 
 court-house and jail, being the seat of justice for the Gore 
 district; 6 churches of different denominations; several 
 well kept hotels, and a large number of stores. Its busi- 
 ness is increasing, and it has one of the largest and most 
 secure harbors on Lake Ontario, being formed by Bur- 
 lington Bay, which is so much land-locked as to be well 
 sheltered. The approach to the bay is through an artifi- 
 cial canal across Burlington beach. Steamboats leave 
 Hamilton daily for Toronto and Lewiston, and connect 
 with other lines of travel. Stages also depart, daily, for 
 Windsor, opposite Detroit, and Queenston, 
 
 DuNDAs, near the head of Burlington Bay, 5 miles 
 west of Hamilton, is a place of considerable trade. It 
 contains about 1.500 inhabitants, and possesses a fine 
 
218 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 v.-ater pi-ivilege, on which are already erected several ex- 
 tensive flouring mills, and other manufacturing establish- 
 ments. The Des Jardin Canal, 2 mi\es long and navi- 
 gable, connects it with Burlington bay and Lake On- 
 tario. 
 
 The City of 1'oronto, the third place in population 
 and importance in Canada, is delightfully situated on a 
 beautiful bay. formed by a low sandy peninsula called 
 Gibraltar Point. It is 180 miles west of Kingston, and 
 45 miles east of Hamilton by steamboat route. Toronto 
 signifies in the Indian language, a. place of meeting. In 
 1793, when surveyed by the elder Bouchette, under the 
 orders of Gov. Simcoe, two Massasauga families were 
 the only inhabitants it contained, and the harbor was a 
 resort for numerous wild fowl. It was incorporated as a 
 city in 1834, when it contained 9,254 inhabitants. In 
 1842 it had increased to 15,436, and now probably num- 
 bers 18.000 inhabitants, having doubled its population in 
 ten years. 
 
 Within a few years it has greatly improved in appear- 
 ance and in trade ; a large number of elegant buildings 
 have been recently erected, and it now presents as neat an 
 aspect as any place in Canada. The streets are paved, and 
 the city is well lighted with gas. Waterworks are also in 
 progress, which Avhen completed will afford every family a 
 bountiful supply of pure water, which heretofore has been 
 taken from the lake and distributed by cans. The streets 
 cross each other at right angles, and King-street, the great 
 mart for merchandize, is near a mile long, mostl}'' built 
 in a substantial manner with brick stores or dwellings. 
 Toronto now contains a Parliament House and Govern- 
 ment Offices, mostly unoccupied ; the College of Upper 
 Canada, surrounded by spacious grounds ; the Canada 
 Company's Land Office; a court-house and jail, city hall 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 219 
 
 and market place, a lunatic asylam, 14 churches of dif« 
 ierent denominations; 5 banking houses and several well 
 kept hotels, the principal of which are the North Ameri- 
 can, facing the hay, and Stone's Hotel in King-streef. 
 The public houses generally adopt the English custom of 
 giving a lunch at noon and dining late, furnishing a sup- 
 per in the evening. The population are decidedly English 
 in their appearance and feelings. The prejudice against 
 the Americans, or Yankees, is easily perceived and easi- 
 ly accounted for, as most of the inhabitants are exceed- 
 ingly loyal, have never visited " the States," and look 
 upon their neighbors as a set of lawless republicans or 
 disorganizers ; forming their opinions from the character 
 of the patriots and sympathisers who hover on the fron- 
 tier of both countries. 
 
 The Old Garrison as it is called, is situated on the 
 lake shore, commanding the entrance to the harbor ; and 
 soldiers' barracks are to be seen in different parts of the 
 city. Toronto, formerly called Little York, was cap- 
 tured by the Americans in 1813, when Gen. Pike the 
 American commander, was killed by the explosion of the 
 magazine which was fired by the English on their re- 
 treat from the fort. 
 
 The steamboats which arrive and depart daily from 
 the harbor during the season of navigation, from April 
 to December, add much to the business and life of To- 
 ronto. A mail stage also leaves daily for Kingston on 
 the ^st ; Lake Simcoe on the north, and Hamilton on 
 the west, all communicating with other lines of travel to 
 different places in Canada. 
 
 THE FOLLOWING ARE THE PKINCIPAL STEAMBOAT LINES 
 LEAVING TORONTO. 
 
 A steamboat leaves Toronto for Hamilton, daily, Sun- 
 days excepted, during the seasoa of navigation, stopping 
 
S20 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 at the intermediate ports. Distance 45 miles. Usual 
 fare (cabin passage) one dollar. Deck passage, 50 cents, 
 
 A steamer leaves Toronto daily for Niagara and Lew- 
 iston. Distance 45 miles. Usual fare $1.50 for cabiit 
 passage. 
 
 The mail line of steamers run daily, (Sundays except- 
 ed) between Toronto and Kingston, stopping at Port 
 Hope and Cobourg. Distance through, 180 miles. Usual 
 fare $5.00 for cabin passage, including meals. Deck 
 passage $2.00. 
 
 A line of steamboats run between Toronto and Roch- 
 ester daily. Distance 100 miles. Usual fare for cabiis 
 passage $3, including meals. Deck passage, $1.50. 
 
 The American line of steamboats, running from Lew- 
 iston to Ogdensburgh, also touch at Toronto and Kingston. 
 
 N. B. All the above rates of fare are subject to change, 
 owing to opposition lines. 
 
 Stage Route from Toronto to Queenston". 
 
 Miles. 
 
 To Etobicoke, 9 
 
 Cooksville, 7 16 
 
 Credit, 4 20 
 
 Trafalgar, i . . 3 23 
 
 Palermo, 7 30 
 
 Nelson, , 5 35 
 
 Hamilton, 13 48 
 
 Stony Creek, 7 55 
 
 Grimsby, 10 65 
 
 Beamsville, 6 71 
 
 St. Catharines, 14 8^ 
 
 Queenston, 15 100 
 
 Stage Route from Toronto to Holland Landing. 
 
 To York Mills, 7 
 
 Thorne Hill 7 14 
 
 Richmond Hill,. 3 17 
 
 New Market, 15 32 
 
 Holland Landing, 4 36 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 221 
 
 A steamer leaves Holland Landing 3 times a week, dur- 
 ing the season of navigation, for different landings on 
 Lake Simcoe. 
 
 • Royal Mail Route from Toronto to Kingston. 
 
 p Place From From 
 
 rt,ACES. jQ place. Toronto. Kingstoa. 
 
 Toronto, 180 
 
 Port Hope, 65 65 115 
 
 Cobourg 7 72 108 
 
 Fifty Mile Point, 58 130 50 
 
 False Duck's Island,.. . 20 150 30 
 
 Kingston, 30 180 
 
 Stage Route from Toronto to Kingston, 
 
 Usual fare through $10. 
 
 Miles. 
 
 To Post's, 26 
 
 Bowmanville, 17 43 
 
 Hope, 17 60 
 
 Cobourg, 13 73 
 
 Colborne, 16 89 
 
 Bullock's 12 101 
 
 Belleville, 18 119 
 
 Bogarl's, 15 134 
 
 Gordonier's, 16 150 
 
 Kingston, 20 170 
 
 Port Hope, 65 miles east of Toronto is the first steam- 
 boat landing on the -way to Kingston. It is a flourishing 
 place, containing about 2,500 inhabitants, and is sur- 
 rounded by a fine tract of cleared land. Here is a good 
 xvater privilege, on which are erected some manufactur- 
 ing establishments, 
 
 Cobourg, 7 miles further, is handsomely situated on the 
 north side of Lake Ontario, and appears to good advan- 
 tage from the water. It contains about 3,000 inhabitants, 
 6 churches, the Victoria college, several hotels and ta- 
 verns and 20 stores. The town is laid out with great 
 symmetry, has fine broad streets, substantial houses of 
 
222 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 Stone, brick and wood, and all the external symptoms of 
 prosperity, having a fine agricultural country behind it 
 for many miles. A steamboat runs from this place di- 
 rect to the mouth of the Genesee river near Rochester, 
 a distance of 80 miles. 
 
 There are several other settlements, of less note, on 
 the lake shore betvt^een Toronto and Kingston, but they 
 are not usually visited by the large class of steamers. 
 
 Fifty Mile Point, attached to Prince Edward's Dis- 
 trict, is so named from being distant 50 miles from Kings- 
 ton. 
 
 False Duck's Island, 30 miles from Kingston, lies 
 near the entrance to Prince Edward's bay, which is a 
 large expanse of water south of the entrance to the bay 
 of Quinte. 
 
 Amherst Island is next passed on the right as you 
 approach Kingston; then comes in view Gage Island and 
 Grand Island,- the latter being the largest of the Thou- 
 sand Islands which lie in the St. Lawrence river — all the 
 above named islands belong to the English. 
 
 Kingston, 180 miles from Toronto and 212 miles 
 southwest from Montreal, is advantageously situated at 
 the foot of Lake Ontario, where commences the St. Law- 
 rence river. This place stands on the site of old Fort Fron- 
 tenac, having been first fortified by the French in 1672. 
 Next to Quebec and Halifax it is considered the strongest 
 military position in British America. Point Henry, a 
 high rocky ridge forming the east side of Navy Bay and 
 extending into the lake for about half a mile, is crowned 
 by a strong fortification called Fort Henry, built on the 
 extremity of the ridge and commanding Kingston and its 
 harbor, and indeed all approaches to the city, both by 
 land and water. Point Frederick is a narrow peninsula, 
 lying between Fort Henry and the city. The extremity 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 223 
 
 of this point is surrounded by a battery, which together 
 with the fort, fully protects the chief naval depct, silua- 
 led in a deep narrow inlet called Navy Bay. 
 
 The Navy Yard and the FortifLcaUons are well worth 
 visiting. They may be seen by procuring an order from 
 the commandant of the station. 
 
 The RiDEAu Canal commences at this place, and al- 
 though it is likely to be in some degree superseded bjj^the 
 canals coustracting around the rapids of the St. Law- 
 rence, still it is an 1 will continue to be a Vrork of much 
 importance to Canada. It consists of a succession of ar- 
 tificial canals, interchanging with natural reaches of wa- 
 ter, ani extends from Kingston' to Bytown, on the river 
 Ottawa, a distance of little over one hundred miles. It 
 is navigated chiefly by small steamboats, which easily pass 
 the locks and artificial cuts, and move more expeditiously 
 than the usual canal craft. From Bytown to Mon- 
 treal the passage on this route is by boats down the Ot- 
 tawa, which has been fitted for navigation by a series of 
 locks. 
 
 Kingston was chartered as a city in 1S40, and now con- 
 tains 9 or 10,000 inhabitants. It has rapidly increased in 
 numbers and importance since the completion of the above 
 canal, and the more recent location of the seat of govern- 
 ment within its limits, which is, however, about being 
 removed to Montreal. It contains at present the resi- 
 dence of the Governor General, handsomely situated 
 about a mile to the west of the city, near the lake shore, 
 and where the late Governor General, Sir Charles Bagot, 
 died, May 19, 1843. The present Governor General is Sir 
 Charles T. Metcalfe, who has the reputation of great en- 
 ergy of character, combined w^ith moderation and eminent 
 administrative abilities. Here also is the Parliament 
 House, first erected for a hospital, in which the Provin- 
 
TOUR THROUGH Cx\?fADA. 
 
 cial Parliament held its session annually; government 
 offices, barracks for soldiers, a large penitentiary build- 
 ing, a court-house and jail, a custom-house, and a new 
 and splendid town hall and marVet; 7 churches of differ- 
 ent denominations; 4 banking houses; 1 marine and two 
 fire insurance companies; 20 hotels and taverns, and 
 about 150 stores of different kinds. The public houses 
 most frequented by travellers, are the British- xYmerican 
 Hotel. Larnpton House, and the Royal Exchange. The 
 number of steamboats of a large class plying between 
 Kingston and other places is about fifteen, besides as ma- 
 ny more of a small class, that run through the Eideau 
 canal and down the rapids of the St. Lawrence to Mon- 
 treal, Steamboats leave Kingston several times daily, 
 for the different ports on Lake Ontario and the bay of 
 Quinte, giving life and animation to the place during the 
 season of navigation. 
 
 Within the city limits, a short distance from the Par- 
 liament House, have recently been discovered two valua- 
 able Mineral Springs, on the premises of Mr. Morton, 
 near the lake. The water was found by boring, one to 
 the depth of 145 feet, and the other 85 feet. From the 
 analysis of the first, it appears to belong to the same 
 class, and nearly of the same component parts, as the 
 Cheltenham Spring of England, although not so much 
 impregnated with common salt. 
 
 \ TO AN IMPERIAL PINT. 
 
 Cheltenham. Kingston. 
 Grains. Grfiins. 
 
 Common Salt, 70.14 45.64 
 
 Chloride of Calcium, 7. 48 35.09 
 
 Chloride of Magnesium, 3.60 15.43 
 
 Sulphate of Soda, 17.55 21.36 
 
 Total grains,..., 98.23 117.52 
 
TOUR THROUGH CAKADA. 225 
 
 The other spiing is unusally strong, and no doubt is of 
 great medical value. Its strength is somewhat variable, 
 owing to an admission of common water. It is, however, 
 supposed to be much stronger than any other mineral 
 water as yet discovered. The follow-ing analysis is by 
 Professor Williamson — Sept. 1843. 
 
 ANALYSIS OF THE UPPER SPRING AT MR. MORTON's. 
 
 Specific gravity, •• 1.0432 
 
 In Imperial Pint. 
 
 Carbonate of Lime, 3.2631 
 
 Carbcnate of Magnesia, 11.2653 
 
 Sulphate of Lime, 3-4716 
 
 Chloride of Sodium, 261.3108 
 
 Sulphate of Magnesia,, 4.3092 
 
 Chloride of Calcium, 112.8025 
 
 Chloride of Masnesium, *. 60.8475 
 
 Iodine and Bromine, (Traces.) 
 
 Total grains, 457.2700 
 
 Gases, Carbonic Acid Gas. 
 
 An extensive bath-house has recently been erected by 
 the proprietor of the above springs, and other accommo- 
 dations for visiters are contemplated. 
 
 From the analysis and increasing celebrity of these 
 springs, owing to their medicinal properties, it is by ma- 
 ny predicted that Kingston wall become celebrated as a 
 place of resort for invalids and others who may wish to 
 visit these restorative fountains. Carriages may at all 
 times of the day be found in waiting near the principal 
 hotels to convey passengers to the springs, which are well 
 worthy of a visit by all strangers. 
 
226 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 Table of distances betwekn Kingston & Montreal. 
 
 p Place From From 
 
 rLACES. to place. Kingston. Momrenl. 
 
 Kingston, 212 
 
 Gananoqui, 20 20 192 
 
 Brockville, 40 60 152 
 
 Mailland, 4 64 148 
 
 Prescott, or Ogdensburgh, . . 8 72 140 
 
 Galop Rapids, 7 79 133 
 
 Matilda, 9 88 124 
 
 Williamsburgh, 7 95 117 
 
 Dickinson's Landing, 15 110 102 
 
 Cornwall, by canal, passing 
 
 the Long Sault Rapids,. . • 12 122 90 
 
 St. Regis, 4 126 86 
 
 Lake St. Francis, 2 128 84 
 
 Lancaster 15 143 69 
 
 Coteaudu Lac, ..;.-'...... 20 163 49 
 
 Cascades, by stage, passing 
 
 the Cedar Rapids, 16 179 33 
 
 La Chine, passing through 
 
 Lake St. Louis '. 24 203 9 
 
 Montreal, by stage, 9 212 
 
 On leaving Kingston to descend the St. Lawrence, you 
 enter at once among the remarkable group of the Thou- 
 sand Islands, which stretch along the river for more than 
 thirty miles. " The main stream of the St. Lawrence," 
 says Buckingham " as it flows from the eastern termina- 
 tion of Lake Ontario, is 12 or 15 miles wide, from Kings- 
 ton to Cape Vincent, across Grand Island; but it is so 
 thickly studded with Islands, that it is like passing through 
 a vast archipelago, rather than navigating a mighty river. 
 Though this extensive range bears the name of the Thou- 
 sand Isles, it is said that there are more than 1,500 of 
 them. The largest are from 8 to 12 miles in length, and 
 from 3 to 5 in breadth; and the smallest of them cover 
 perhaps an acre of space. They are for the most part 
 rocky islets, sometimes rising in abrupt cliffs from the 
 water, and so bold and steep that you may run the boat 
 
fOUR THROUGH CANADA. 227 
 
 near enough almost to touch the cliffs from the vessel. 
 A few only are low and flat; but being nearly all wood- 
 ed, they form a perpetual succession of the most roman- 
 tically beautiful and picturesque groups that can be con- 
 ceived." 
 
 After clearing the Thousand Islands the river contracts 
 to about two miles in width, and presents a magnificent 
 appearance. The cultivated fields and settlements inter- 
 changing with bolder features, along its banks, impart a 
 grandeur, as well as a variety and beauty, to the river 
 and its shores, which no other stream on the continent 
 possesses in an equal degree. 
 
 Gananoqui, 20 miles below Kingston, is usually the 
 first landing made by the British steamers in descending 
 the river, unless they stop to take in wood at some of the 
 islands. 
 
 Wells' Island, one of the largest of the Thousand Is- 
 lands attached to the United States, lies a short distance 
 below, opposite the village of Alexandria, on the Ame- 
 rican shore. This island was the scene of a high-handed 
 piece of piracy, in May 1838. The following is a slate- 
 ment of the aff"air as narrated by Capt. J. B. Armstrong. 
 " The British steamer. Sir Robert Peel, while stopping 
 at Wells' Island, for the purpose of taking in wood, was 
 boarded at midnight by a set of men, two of whom seized 
 the commander of the boat, as he came on deck, by the 
 shoulders, while 5, third one presented a musket with fixed 
 bayonet to his breast and ordered him to proceed on 
 shore, w^hich order he quietly obeyed between his two 
 captors. The crew and passengers, several of whom 
 were ladies, were disposed of in a similar manner. The 
 boat was then robbed of all the most valuable articles, 
 including a considerable amount of money, and set on fire. 
 
228 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 The notorious Bill Johnson was supposed to have been 
 the leader, assisted by Canadian patriots. 
 
 Brockville, 60 miles below Kingston, is delightfully 
 situated on the northwest side of the St. Lawrence, where 
 it is about two miles wide. Here is a convenient steam- 
 boat landing, where the American and English passage 
 boats usually land on their trips up and down the river. 
 It contains about 1600 inhabitants, 250 dwelling houses, 
 4 churches, a court house and jail; and several well kept 
 public houses. 
 
 Nearly opposite lies the village of Mobristown, on the 
 American shore, 11 miles above Ogdensburgh. It con- 
 tains about 250 inhabitants. 40 dwelling houses, 2 church- 
 es, 2 taverns, 3 stores, 2 store-houses, and 1 steam grist 
 mill. This is a regular landing place for passage boats 
 passing up and down the St. Lawrence; and the stage 
 road between Utica and Ogdensburg passes through this 
 place. 
 
 Maitland, is a small village, 4 miles below Brock- 
 ville, on the same side. It contains about 300 inhabi- 
 tants, 1 church and 2 public houses. 
 
 Pbescott, 72 miles below Kingston, stands opposite to 
 the village of Ogdensburgh, with which it is connected by 
 a ferry. Here is located Fort WeUingtoji, a strong and 
 important fortress permanently garrisoned by British 
 troops. Prescott is a place of considerable trade, con- 
 taining 2 or 3,000 inhabitants, 350 dwelling houses, 4 
 churcheS; 8 hotels and taverns, and a large steam grist 
 mill. 
 
 Windmill Point, about one mile below Prescott, is 
 noted for having been occupied in November, 1838, by a 
 body of Americans under the command of Van Shultz, 
 who had embarked in a crusade against the British au- 
 thorities in Canada, in behalf of the patriots. The stone 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 229 
 
 \yindmill, near the river, was his stronghold, and valiant- 
 ly defended for some time and at the cost of many ]ives, 
 when the surviving inmates were all compelled to surren- 
 der. This was an unfortunate afiair for all who were 
 captured. The leaders suffered an ignominious death on 
 the gallows, at Kingston, whither they were conveyed 
 for trial, and the others were transported to Van Die- 
 man's Land, where many of them still linger, unless in- 
 cluded in a decree of amnesty and pardon recently issued 
 by the British government. 
 
 Ogdensbitrgh, on the American side of the St. Law- 
 rence, is situated at the mouth of the Oswegatchie river. 
 It was incorporated in 1817, and now contains about 3,600 
 inhabitants, 450 dwelling-houses; 1 Presbyterian, 1 Epis- 
 copal, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist, and 1 Roman Catholic 
 church; 2 banks, 5 public houses, 80 stores and shops of 
 different kinds, and a number of mills and other manu- 
 facturing establishments. This place is situated at the 
 foot of sloop navigation on the St. Lawrence, although 
 steamboats of a large class descend to the Long Sault 
 Rapids, 40 miles below. A daily line of steamboats 
 leave Ogdensburgh, ascending the St. Lawrence, passing 
 through Lake Ontario, and touching at Prescott^ Morris- 
 town^ BrockviUcy Alexandria, French Creek, Cape Yin- 
 cent, jSTiregsf on, Sackett's Harbor, Oswego, Rochester, To- 
 ronto, and Lewiston. A steam ferry boat crosses 
 the St. Lawrence from Ogdensburgh to Prescott, a dis- 
 tance of 1:^ miles. A daily line of stages run from Ogdens- 
 burgh to Plattsburgh by the southern route. A line of 
 stages also run three times a week from Ogdensburgh to 
 Plattsburgh, via Fort Covington, where it intersects a 
 stage running to Montreal, a distance of about 80 miles; 
 the total distance from Ogdensburgh to Montreal, by the 
 above stage route, being 140 miles. 
 
 Q 
 
230 TOUK THUOUGH CANAOA. 
 
 The Galop Rapids, 7 miles below Ogdensburgh, are 
 easily passed by steamboatSj although they prevent the 
 navigation of the St. Lawrence by sail vessels. 
 
 Matilda, 9 miles further, is a convenient landing on 
 the Canada side of the river. 
 
 Willi AMSBURGH, 7 miles below, is a convenient land- 
 ing, where passage boats usually touch ascending and de- 
 scending the river. 
 
 Waddington, on the American shore, lies opposite 
 Ogden's Island, which is passed to the right, as it is on 
 the American side of the line. 
 
 Dickinson's Landing, 110 miles below Kingston, is 
 situated at the head of the Long Sault, which is a dan- 
 gerous rapid, extending for several miles. The St. Law- 
 rence Canal, recently finished, on the Canada shore, ex- 
 tends from this place to Cornwall, a distance of about 12 
 miles. It is calculated to accommodate steamboats and 
 a large class of other vessels. 
 
 Cornwall, 122 miles from Kingston and 90 miles 
 above Montreal, is situated on the northwest side of the 
 river, at the lower end of the St. Lawrence Canal. 
 The town contains about 1,800 inhabitants, 300 dwell- 
 ing houses, a court house and jail; 5 churches, 20 
 stores, and several hotels. 
 
 St. Regis, 4 miles below, on the American side of the 
 river, is situated on the line of the 45th degree of north 
 latitude, the St. Lawrence, below this point, being en- 
 tirely in Canada. St. Regis is an Indian village, part of 
 its inhabitants living in the United States, and part in 
 Canada. It contains 4 or 500 inhabitants, 80 dwelling 
 houses, 1 Roman Catholic church, 1 tavern and 1 store. 
 Here is a convenient steamboat landing, where during 
 warm weather may be seen Indian boys, prepared to 
 plunge into the water, on having a piece of money thrown 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 231 
 
 overboard — often it is caught by these expert swimmers 
 before reaching the bottom. 
 
 Lake St. Francis, which is 30 miles long and from 4 
 to 7 miles wide, is an expansion of the St. Lawrence. 
 
 Lancasteb, 16 miles below St. Regis, is a steamboat 
 landing on the northwest side of the lake, or river. Ca- 
 jr.EDONiA Springs is 30 miles distant from this place, in a 
 northerly direction. A new road is about being construct- 
 ed to unite the two places. 
 
 At CoTEAu DU Lac, 20 miles further, commences a 
 rapid of the same same name, extending about two miles. 
 Seven miles below this commences the Cedar Rapid, 
 which extends about 3 miles. Then comes the Cascade 
 Rapid, which terminates at the head of Lake St. Louis, 
 where the Ottawa, by one of its mouths, joins the St. 
 Lawrence. 
 
 The grandeur of the scenery in the vicinity of these ra- 
 pids cannot be conceived without being witnessed. The 
 mighty St. Lawrence is here seen in all its magnificence 
 and power, being lashed into a foam for miles by the im- 
 petuosity of its current. The Cedars* have hitherto been 
 considered the most formidable obstruction to downward 
 bound craft, but the new South Channel, first used in 
 1843, affords an additional depth t)f water. 
 
 '' Previously to taking the Ontario, (now the Lord Sy- 
 denham) down to Montreal from Kingston, Captain Bil- 
 liard examined the south channel for some part of the 
 way; but though he supposed there was sufficient depth 
 of Avater, he was of opinion that it was too rough to be 
 navigated with safety; so the Ontario came down by the 
 
 * It was here that Gen. Amherst's brigade of 300 men, on their 
 way to attack Canada, then in possession of the French, were 
 lost. At Montreal they received the first intelligence of the in- 
 vasion, by the dead bodies floating past the town. 
 
232 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 old path. These and other facts had long been known 
 to D. L. Macpherson, Esq., of the forwarding house of 
 Macpherson, Crane & Co.; and it is to the sagacity, per- 
 severance and public spirit of that gentleman, that the 
 country owes the knowledge of the existence of the new" 
 passage." 
 
 The Beauharnois Canal, now in the course of construc- 
 tion, will extend 16 miles, and afford steamboat naviga- 
 tion round alj the above rapids. 
 
 From Coteau du Lac passengers now proceed by stage 
 to the Cascades, 16 miles; thence by steamboat to La- 
 chine, 22 miles, through Lake St. Louis. From the lat- 
 ter place, stages usually convey passengers to Montreal, 
 a further distance of 9 miles. On the enlargement of the 
 Lachine Canal, however, passage boats of the larger 
 class will be able to pass directly to Montreal, as do 
 now, a small class of steamboats, in descending the St. 
 LawTence. In ascending, however, even the latter class 
 are obliged, at present, to proceed up the Ottawa river, 
 and take the Rideau Canal to Kingston. 
 
 A statement of the canals, finished and in progress in 
 Canada, intended to improve the navigation of the St. 
 Lawrence, and afford ship navigation from Quebec to the 
 Falls of St. Mary are here added. '' The line commences 
 with the Lachine Canal, extending from Montreal to 
 the village of Lachine, a distance of 8 miles. This 
 work is about to be enlarged, and it will form the first 
 link of the chain which is to connect the navigation of 
 the St. Lawrence with that of the great interior lakes, 
 through Avhich runs the boundary between the Unitetl 
 States and the British dependencies, and to which, there- 
 fore, the people and the trade of both nations have equal 
 and free access. 
 
 '' At Lachine you enter an expansion of the St. Law- 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 233 
 
 rence called Lake St. Louis — similar to that of the Tap- 
 pan sea in the Hudson river — and have a steamboat navi- 
 gation to the Cascades, at the mouth of the Ottawa. At 
 this point, vi'here is the village of Beauharnois, com- 
 mences the Beauharnois Canal, which is to extend 16 
 miles, to a point opposite Coteau du Lac, surmounting 
 the obstacles to navigation caused by the several rapids, 
 known as the Cascades, the Cedars, and the Coteau du 
 Lac, which make, in all, a difference of elevation of about 
 sixty feet. 
 
 " At this last point you enter another expansion of the 
 St. Lawrence, called Lake St. Francois, which takes you 
 to Cornwall, a distance of 40 miles, and on the 45th pa- 
 rallel of north latitude. At this point commences the 
 St. Lawrence Canal, now finished and extending 12 
 miles to Dickinson's Landing, and passing the Long 
 Sault rapids, which have a total descent of about 50 feet. 
 This canal is a fair sample of the other works. It has 
 six locks of solid masonry, constructed in the most dura- 
 ble manner, each 200 feet long in the chamber, by 50 feet 
 wide, with a depth of 10 feet of water. They are de- 
 signed, therefore, to accommodate the largest class of 
 Lake Ontario steamers, and most of the ships that navi- 
 gate the St. Lawrence from Quebec to Montreal. 
 
 " From Dickinson's Landing to Kingston, steamers of 
 a^ large class now ply, though there are two or three ra- 
 pids below Ogdensburgh. 
 
 '^ From Kingston the route is by the lake to the point 
 of connection with the Welland Canal. This work, 
 now being enlarged, is but a continuation and completion 
 of this great line of works designed and destined to fur- 
 nish a continuous ship navigation throughout the whole 
 extent of the valley of the St. Lawrence and the basin of 
 the great lakes, from Quebec to the Falls of St. Mary. 
 
•234 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 When this chain of communication is finished, and this 
 great route of travel and traffic is opened and in use, it 
 will give to the Canadas an exclusive as well as direct 
 communication between the vast and far north-west and 
 the Atlantic ocean — a result which, unless counterbal- 
 anced by the completion of our own great works, espe- 
 cially the Erie Canal Enlargement, will give to the Bri- 
 tish navigation and commerce, advantages ot the greatest 
 importance, and will operate to the deep and lasting in- 
 jury of the State of New-York." 
 
 The City of Montreal, now the first in population and 
 commerci^ importance in British America, as well as 
 the capital of the United Provinces, is advanlageouslj' 
 situated on the southeast side of the Island of the 
 same name, with the river St. Lawrence flowing past 
 from southwest to northeast, being here about 2 miles 
 v/ide, and navigable from this place to the ocean for ships 
 of several hundred tons burthen. Immediately above 
 commence the Lachine Rapids, through which no vessel 
 can ascend the stream. 
 
 The city extends along the river for about two miles. 
 there being an inward curve to the wharves, which ex- 
 tend nearly the whole distance, aflording great facilities 
 to the numerous vessels of difi'erent kinds which visit this 
 port during the season of navigation. The settlement 
 extends inwards for upwards of a mile, covering an area 
 of about one thousand acres. 
 
 On approaching from La Prairie above, or from Que- 
 bec below, this place appears to great advantage. The 
 towering grandeur of the French Cathedral, the spires of 
 other churches, • and the spreading mass of well built 
 stores and dwellings, give the traveller a very favorable 
 impression of the city he is about to enter — and it is in- 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 235 
 
 creased as he views the line of noble stone wharves, and 
 |reads the streets, at present celebrated for their good or- 
 der and cleanliness, Montreal being now one of the neat- 
 est cities on this continent, though formerly it had a very 
 <iifFerent and much less enviable reputation. 
 
 The principal streets run parallel to the river, being 
 crossed by others at right angles. Commissioners-street 
 and Water-street are next the river, then comes St. Paul's 
 street, while Notre Dame-street, (the Broadway of Mon- 
 treal,) extends along the summit of a ridge, from which 
 the water descends both ways, thus resembling in one 
 particular the city of New- York, while its situation and 
 appearance from the water remind you of the city of Al- 
 bany — increased, however, in picturesque beauty, by the 
 hill in the rear, called Mount Royal, which rises about 
 one mile from the city to the height of 550 feet, forming 
 a prominent object in the picture from every point of 
 view. 
 
 The island on which the city stands, is formed by the 
 junction of the mouths of the Ottawa with the St. Law- 
 rence. It is twenty- eight miles in length, ten miles in its 
 greatest breadth, and about seventy miles in circumfer- 
 ence. It mostly belongs to the seminary of the St, Sulpi- 
 cians, a religious order of Catholics, and yields a large 
 revenue. Its fertility is such as to give it the name of the 
 *' Garden of Canada," to which it is justly entitled. 
 
 The public buildings in Montreal are rather numerous 
 and imposing for a place of its size, now numbering about 
 45,000 inhabitants. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Catredral in Notre Dame-street, 
 facing the Place D'Armes, is perhaps the most magnificent 
 structure of its kind in America, being at once an orna- 
 ment to the city, and a towering beacon which can be 
 seen for many miles, rising in majestic grandeur above 
 
236 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 all the other buildings by which it is surrounded. It was 
 commenced in 1824, and opened for public worship on 
 the 15th of July, 1829, although not entirely completed 
 until 1843. This edifice is designed in the pointed Gothic 
 style of the middle ages. Its length is 255 feet, and its 
 breadth 134 feet; the two front towers being 220 feet in 
 height. It can seat 10,000 persons, with comfort, there 
 being 1.244 pews. From the summits of the towers, 
 which are ascended by a flight of steps inside, the views 
 presented are of great extent and surpassing grandeur — 
 the city and its suburbs — the majestic St Lawrence, and 
 the surrounding country for a wide reach in all direc- 
 tions, forming the picture. 
 
 The following just tribute to Montreal, is taken from a 
 late number of the Kingston British Whig: 
 
 " Montreal is unquestionably the cleanest city in her 
 Majesty's dominions, although atone time it had the very 
 contrary reputation. With a population of nearly fifty- 
 thousand souls, not a single potatoe peeling, or dirt of any 
 kind whatever, can be seen in any of the frequented 
 streets — much less a stray pig, or cow, and scarcely a 
 dog. The labors of the corporation in this respect have 
 been crowned with success, and they deserve more merit 
 than I can well describe, not m^erely for the extreme 
 cleanliness of the city, but for the good order and perfect 
 quiet maincained both day and night. 
 
 "The extreme cheapness of cab and caleche hire in 
 Montreal, is a fact that cannot fail to attract the notice 
 of a stranger. For an English shilling, you can traverse 
 the length of the city and return; and the cab drivers are 
 the civiiest I ever m.et with. 
 
 " The noble quay deserves a much longer notice than I 
 bestowed upon it in my last. Its length is probably a 
 mile, and the beauty and strength of its masonry far ex- 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 237 
 
 ceeds any thing of the kind I have ever seen at home. It 
 has no fellow in London, and the celebrated quay at 
 Great Yarmouth is far its inferior. Dublin and Liver- 
 pool, both noted for fine quays, may have greater preten- 
 sions; but, in one respect, that in Montreal has no equal. 
 Below the level of the quay, probably twelve feet, there 
 are most capacious wharves, at whose sides vessels of 
 the largest class can unload with ease and safety, which 
 cannot be said either at Dublin or Liverpool. In fact, 
 Montreal has no feature which charms the visiter as much 
 as the promenade along its edge of the quay." 
 
 For a full description of Montreal, see " Hochelaga 
 Depicta," or the History and PresentState of the Island 
 and City of Montreal. 
 
 Table of Distances from Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 p Place to From From 
 
 rLACES. place. Montreal. Quebec. 
 
 Montreal, 180 
 
 Varennes, 15 15 165 
 
 Wm.. Henry, 30 45 135 
 
 Lake St. Peter, 8 53 127 
 
 St. Francis, 30 83 97 
 
 Three Rivers, 7 90 90 
 
 St. Anne, 25 115 65 
 
 Richelieu Rapids, 20 135 44 
 
 Cape Sante, 15 150 30 
 
 Cape Rouge, 22 178 8 
 
 Quebec, 8 ISO 
 
 The places in italic are steamboat landings. ' 
 
238 tour through canada. 
 
 ^Excursion to Caledonia Springs and Bytown on 
 THE Ottawa River. 
 
 This has become a fashionable excursion during warm 
 weather for the affluent citizens of Canada, and is well 
 worthy the attention of strangers visiting this section of 
 country for health or pleasure. 
 
 The usual conveyance from Montreal, is first by stage 
 on a good road, 9 miles, to Lachine. Here the tourist 
 embarks in a steamboat, at the mouth ^f the Ottawa 
 river, which, although a tributary to the St. Lawrence, 
 is a large and important stream. The navigation, how- 
 ever, is obstructed by rapids, which are overcome by a 
 succession of locks, until you reach Bytown, 132 miles 
 by vvater from Montreal, and where commences the Ri- 
 deau Canal, terminating at Kingston. 
 
 At St. Anne's, 20 miles above Lachine, the steam- 
 boat passes through a lock, 45 feet wide and ISO feet 
 long. Here is a succession of rapids in the river, and 
 several small islands. The village is situated on the 
 southwest end of the Island of Montreal, and is the place 
 where the poet Moore, located the scene of his admired 
 Canadian Boat Song, a stanza of which we copy : 
 
 " Faintly as tolls the evening chime 
 Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time; 
 Soon as the woods on shore look dim, 
 We'll sing at St. Anne's" our parting hymn; 
 Row brothers, row, the stream runs fast, 
 The rapids are near and the daylight's past!" 
 
 * The Voyageurs in passing the Eapids of St. Anne, were [or- 
 merly obliged to take out a part, if not the whole of their lading, 
 owing to the small depth of water here afforded. It is from this 
 village that the Canadians consider they take their departure on 
 ascending the Ottawa, as it possesses the last church on the Is- 
 land of Montreal, which is dedicated to the tutelar Sauit of 
 voyageurs. 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 239 
 
 Two mil^es west of St. Anne, commences the Lake of 
 the Two Mountains, being an expansion of the Ottawa, 
 about 10 miles long and 8 miles wide. Here a branch of 
 the river diverges*toward the northeast, forming the west 
 boundary of the Island of Montreal. Two hills to the 
 north, elevated 400 or 500 feet above the river at the dis- 
 tance of a few miles, give the name to this body ' of 
 water. 
 
 The Indian Village of the Two Mountains, is situat- 
 ed on the north side of the Ottawa, about 30 miles west 
 of Lachine. Here reside the remnants of two tribes, the 
 Mohawks and Algonquins. The settlements are divided 
 by a Roman Catholic Church, standing near the river side. 
 On the hill toward the north, are situated three or four 
 Chapels The highest summit of the hill or mountain, 
 one or two miles distant, is called Calvary, and is visited 
 by the Indians and whites on certain religions festivals of 
 the Roman Catholic Church. Here the river contracts in 
 width to about half a mile, for a distance of one mile ; 
 when it again expands, forming the Upper Lake of the 
 Two Mountains. About 9 miles further west the river 
 again contracts to half a mile in width. 
 
 On the south is passe^ the settlement of Regaud, and 
 a mountain of the same name. 
 
 Carillon, 8 miles further, is on the north side of the 
 Ottawa. Here are rapids in the river, and the naviga- 
 tion by steamboat is continued by means of a lock and 
 canal. 
 
 At Point Fortune, opposite Carillon, passengers go- 
 ing to the Caledonia Springs usually take a stage for 
 L'Original, a distance of 18 miles, along the south 
 bank of the Ottawa, which affords some picturesque 
 views. 
 
240 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 . k 
 
 The route now diverges south to Caledonia Springs, a 
 further distance of 9 miles. Usual fare through from 
 Montreal $4.00. 
 
 Caledonia Springs, are situated in ;the township of 
 Caledonia, Ottawa District, Canada West. They are by- 
 steamboat and stage route 75 miles from Montreal, 60 miles 
 from Bytown, and 30 miles north of the St. Lawrence at 
 Lancaster, from which place, by a road nearly completed, 
 travellers descending the St. Lawrence, will soon be able to 
 diverge to these justly celebrated waters, and with near- 
 ly as much convenience as passengers on the Ottawa, can 
 now enjoy the same privilege. Both these rivers, for 
 grand and interesting scenery are probably not surpassed 
 on the American continent. The post village of Cale- 
 donia Springs has started into existence and notoriety 
 within a few years. In 1837, Mr. Wm. Parker, one of its 
 most enterprising proprietors, located himself here, and 
 opened a public house for the entertainment of visiters. 
 Since then there has been erected three or four more ho- 
 tels a Protestant church, a Roman Catholic church, two 
 stores, one saw-mill, and several dwellings. Here may 
 be found also a bathing house, a billiard room, a nine 
 pin alley, a race course, and a circular railway, oifering 
 their several modes of recreation. 
 
 The great inducement however, to visit these springs 
 is their medicinal efficacy in a wide range of cases— an 
 efficacy well established by abulidant experience ; and the 
 numbers resorting to them, during the summer months, 
 are great and increasing, It has, indeed, become a 
 fasionable resort ; and large quantities of the water are 
 annually sent abroad to meet the increasing demand. 
 
 A full description of the medicinal properties of these 
 fountains, can be found in the ''Caledonia Springs' 
 Guide," published in 1841, and distributed gratis to 
 visiters. 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANAD^. 241 
 
 ANALYSES, » 
 
 Of the Medicinal Springs or Caledonia, Canada. 
 BY Dr. James R. Chilton, of New-York. 
 
 Gas Spring. 
 
 One quart of water. 
 
 Chloride of Sodium, 89.75 
 
 " Magnesium, 1.63 
 
 " Potassium, .55 
 
 Sulphate of Lime, 1 . 47 
 
 Carbonate of Lime, 2-40 
 
 " Magnesia, 2.50 
 
 " Soda, 1.00 
 
 Iron, .03 
 
 Iodide of Sodium , .35 
 
 Resin, a vegetable extract, .52 
 
 Grains, 100.20 
 
 C Carbonic Acid, 
 
 Gases, < Sulphuretted Hydrogen, 
 
 ( Nitrogen, 
 
 White Sulphur Spring. 
 One quart of water. 
 
 Chloride of Sodium, 60.44 
 
 " Magnesium, -62 
 
 Sulphate of Lime, -68 
 
 Carbonate of Lime, -82 
 
 '' Magnesia, 3.60 
 
 Iodide, 
 
 Vegetable extract, &c, . -SO 
 
 Grains,- 66.46 
 
 .. $ Carbonic Acid, 3.20 
 
 uases, ^ Sulphuretted Hydrogen,. . 6. 14 
 
 9.34 cubic inches. 
 
242 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 f 
 
 Saline Spring. 
 One quart of water. 
 
 Chloride of Sodium 108.22 
 
 " Magnesium, 2.01 
 
 Sulphate of Lime, 1 .28 
 
 Carbonate of Lime,. 2.00 
 
 " Magnesia, 5.12 
 
 " Soda, 82 
 
 Iodide of Sodium, .38 
 
 Vegetable Extract, .61 
 
 Grains 120.44 
 
 One hundred cubic inches of the Gas from the Gas Spring 
 analysed, is as follows : , 
 
 Light Carburetted Hydrogen, 82 . 90 
 
 Nitrogen, , 6 . 00 
 
 Oxygen, 1.56 
 
 Sulphuretted Hydrogen, 4.00 
 
 Carbonic Acid, 5 . 54 
 
 Cubic inches, 100 . 00 
 
 The Georgian Springs, near Bytown, have also at- 
 tracted considerable attention A public house is erected 
 over the fountain, and there are bath roonis attached for 
 the accommodation of visiters. 
 
 On ascending the Ottawa from L'Original, the beauty 
 of the river scenery increases, the whole route from 
 Montreal to Kingston being a beautiful succession of na- 
 tural and artificial scenery. The distance is about 260 
 miles by river and canal route, and is usually performed 
 in two days and a half. 
 
 Bytown, 55 miles above L'Original, is situated on the 
 southwest side of the Ottawa river, at the junction of 
 the Rideau canal, 130 miles northeast of Kingston, by 
 canal route, and 120 miles west of Montreal. It contains 
 about 5,000 inhabitants, 800 dwelling houses, a court- 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 243 
 
 house and jail, this being the seat of the higher courts for 
 the district of Dalhousie ; 1 Episcopal, 1 Presbyterian, 1 
 Methodist and 1 Roman Catholic church j several well 
 kept hotels and taverns, and a number of stores of dif- 
 ferent kinds. In the vicinity there is an extensive flour- 
 ing mill, 1 grist-mill, and 3 saw-mills propelled by water 
 power. Since the commencement of the Rideau canal in 
 1S27, Bytown has sprung into existence, and now pre- 
 sents the appearance of a thrifty and business-like place. 
 Many of the buildings are constructed of cut stone, in the 
 most durable and workmanlike style, and it is altogether 
 a desirable place of residence, being surrounded by a 
 fertile district, distinguished for its romantic scenery. On 
 the Ottawa river, are two very picturesque falls, both in 
 the vicinity of this place — the Chaudiere falls, (the 
 boiling pot,) are in the immediate neighborhood ; while 
 a short distance below the village are the Rideau falls, 
 (the curtain,) so called from their resemblance to dra- 
 pery. 
 
 Steamboat Routk from Montreal to Quebec. 
 
 On leaving Montreal for Quebec, in one of the many 
 splendid steamers which navigate the St. Lawrence, you 
 have a fine view of the beautiful fortified island of St. 
 Helen, situated mid-stream opposite the city; and as you 
 are borne along on the majestic current of the mighty ri- 
 ver, its thic.klj^ settled nnxl cultivated shores compel the 
 admiring attention of the traveller, by the aspect present- 
 ed b}'' their lines of settlements on each side, as of one 
 almost continuous street, for the whole distance of 180 
 miles from city to city. 
 
 LoNGTjEiL, on the opposite side of the river from Mon- 
 treal, is connected with the city by a commodious ferry. 
 
244 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 and a plank road extends to Chambly on the river Riche- 
 lieu. 
 
 "^ The Rapids of St. Mary, are entered immediately be- 
 Jow St. Helen's island; and. although not formidable to 
 steam vessels, they often retard the ordinary river craft 
 for many days, in ascending. 
 
 LoNGTTi; Point and Point aux Trembles, on the Isl- 
 and of Montreal, are successively passed on the left, and 
 BoucHERViLLE on the opposite shore. 
 
 The Island of St. Theresa, lies in the St. Lawrence, 
 a short distance from the northern termination ot the 
 island of Montreal, and 15 miles below the city. 
 
 Varennes, on the southeast side of the river, 15 miles 
 from Montreal, is st^beautiful place, and was formerly 
 much resorted to, for the mineral springs in its vicinity. 
 . The massive church, with its two spires, surrounded by a 
 cluster of neat dwellings, presents a fine appearance from 
 the river. Other objects of interest are seen in the dis- 
 tance; the hills back of Montreal are still visible; and 
 the Mountain of Rouville, rising grandly in the south- 
 east, its summit crowned wdth an immense cross, seen for 
 many miles, greatly exalts the character and expression 
 of the whole prospect. 
 
 William Henry, or Sorel, 45 miles below Montreal, 
 stands on the site of an old fort, built in 1665, at the 
 mouth of the Richelieu river. It is regularly laid out 
 with streets crossing each other at right angles. Thi.s 
 town was first settled in 1685, and now contains about 
 2,000 inhabitants. It is no doubt destined to a rapid in- 
 crease, as a canal is now constructed from Chambly to 
 St. John's, affording an uninterrupted water communica- 
 tion with Lake Champlain. The Fort at this place was 
 taken and occupied, in May. 1776, by a party of the Ame- 
 
TOUR THP^OUGIl CANADA. 245 
 
 rican army, in their retreat from Quebec on the death of 
 Montgomery. 
 
 Leaving the mouth of the Richelieu, and proceeding 
 down the St. Lawrence, several islands are passed in suc- 
 cession, and then you enter 
 
 Lake St. Peter, 50 miles below Montreal. This 
 sheet of water, which is but an expansion of the river, 
 is about 25 miles long and 12 to 15 miles wide, while the 
 average breadth of the river proper, from Montreal to 
 Quebec, is about two miles, and the scene which its wa- 
 ters present, has some features peculiar enough to be no- 
 ticed. In addition to the more customary forms of steam- 
 boati, of ships and other sea-going vessels, and of the 
 craft usually employed in the navigRlion of large rivers, 
 the waters of Ihe St. Lawrence, more than any other 
 even on this forest-covered continent, are frequented by 
 enormous timber-ralts, commonly borne along on their 
 way to market, by the force of the current alone, though 
 occasionally aided by spreading a sail, or by huge cars 
 called sweeps. These floating islands of timber, with 
 huts here and there rising from their low surface, for the 
 accommodation of the raft-men, and another singular 
 sort of craft with long low hulls, nowhere else known, 
 and designed chiefly for the transport of timber of great 
 length, contribute the more remarkable and picturesque 
 features to the animating spectacle presented by thfe navi- 
 gation of this noble river; while, from its high latitude 
 and from the characteristic phenomena of northern skies, 
 the ordinary as well as the more grotesque features re- 
 ferred to, are accompanied by contrasts in the golden 
 grandeur of the sunsets and in the varied splendor of the 
 Northern Lights, both of which are so frequent and so 
 remarkable, that they may be very fairly regarded as ha- 
 
 R 
 
246 TOUR THROUGH CANAIJA. 
 
 bitual, and from which the scenery of the St. Lawrence 
 derives a magnificence and beauty probably unequalled. 
 
 Port St. Francis, 83 miles below Montreal, is the 
 next steamboat landing. Here the river again contracts 
 to its usual width. 
 
 Three Rivers, half way between Montreal and Que- 
 bec, is situated on the north side of the St. Lawrence at 
 the mouth of the river St. Maurice.; nearly opposite to 
 which and of smaller volume, enters the river Becancour. 
 Three Rivers is an old town, having been settled by the 
 French in 1618. It now contains about 3,000 inhabitants 
 and is a place of considerable trade. 
 
 St. Anne, 25 miles beloAV Three Rivers, stands on the 
 north bank of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of a river 
 of the same name. 
 
 The Richelieu Rapids, 45 miles above Quebec, ex- 
 tend some 8 or 10 miles. The chanifel of the river is 
 here very narrow and intricate, huge rocks being visible in 
 many places during low water. In order to guide the mari- 
 ner safely through these rapids beacon lights are station- 
 ed at the more critical points of the passage. 
 
 Cape Sante, 30 miles from Quebec, is on the nortrP 
 side of the St. Lawrence, and on the opposite side is a 
 settlement called St. Trois. The banks of the river are 
 here elevated some 60 or 80 feet above the water, and are 
 almost,perpendicu!ar, from which the land extends away 
 for many miles, with an almost level surface. 
 
 Capk Rouge, 8 miles above Quebec, is next passed on 
 the left, when the citadel of Quebec comes into view, pre- 
 senting a sight at once grand and deeply interesting, from 
 the historical events with which it is associated. 
 
 The Chaudiere River, on the right, is much visited 
 for the sake of its beautiful falls, situated a short distance 
 from its entrance into the St. Lawrence. 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 247 
 
 Wolf's Cove, 2 miles above Quebec, on thesameside, 
 is an interesting spot to strangers, for bere the lamented 
 Wolfe landed with his gallant army, in 1759, and ascend- 
 «d to the Plains of Abraham, where he fell a victim to 
 his heroic ent-erprise. But he fell not alone. France 
 mourned an equal loss in the fall of the brave and gene- 
 rous Montcalm. 
 
 As the steamer approaches the wharf, the line of ship- 
 ping, extending usually for two or three miles, gives life 
 and interest to the scene below — while the towering cita- 
 del above, produces emotions of wonder and delight. 
 
 QUEBEC, 
 May well be called the great citadel of America; 
 and it is Avell worth a journey of 500 miles to see, with 
 its surrounding beauties of nature and art. The city, in 
 1831, contained 25.916 inhabitants. Now, its population 
 4S estimated at 35,000, of which about two thousand are 
 soldiers. A great number of commodious buildings adorn 
 Quebec — such as the Government House, Hotel Dieu, 
 the Ursuline Convent, the Jesuit's Monastery, (now bar- 
 tacks for soldiers,) Catholic Cathedrals, Protestant 
 Churches, the Exchange, Banks, &c. The city is nomi- 
 nally divided into three parts, the Upper and Lower 
 Town, and the Suburbs — the last of which is the most 
 populous. The streets in the lower town are narrow and 
 jll-ventilated, but wider and more airy in the Upper 
 Town, where the most wealthy class of citizens reside. 
 As a fortress. Quebec may be justly ranked in the first 
 class. Words can hardly express the strength of its po- 
 sition, without the aid of technical terms. The citadel 
 is approached by a zigzag pathway, with thirty- two 
 pounders staring you in the face at every turn. When 
 inside the citadel, it looks like a world of itself. The of&- 
 
248 TOUR THROUGH CANADA.. 
 
 cers' barrack is a fine building, overlooking the St. Law- 
 rence. The soldiers' quarters are under the ramparts. The 
 magazines and warlike implements are immense. A nev/ 
 prison is now erecting within the walls. The escape of 
 Theller, Dodge and others, in 1833, from this stronghold, 
 mortified the officers in command, who caused the senti- 
 nels on duty at the time, to be punished. In making their 
 escape, it is said they used the rope of the telegraph signal, 
 lowered themselves under the walls, and thence fled into 
 the city, where they were secreted for some days. 
 
 A monument is erected where Gen. Wolfe is said to 
 have died on the Plains of Abraham. A beautiful mo- 
 nument is also erected, of recent date, to the memories of 
 Wolfe and Montcalm, within the city walls. A nev/ and 
 delightful walk is no w* furnished on the spot where for- 
 merly stood the Castle of St. Louis, which was destroyed 
 by fire in 1834 — it is called Lord Durham's Terrace. 
 
 The following description of the city of Quebec, in its 
 present state, is taken from Mr. Buckingham's late inte- 
 resting work on Canada, &c.: 
 
 " The situation of Quebec is highly advantageous, in 
 a commercial as vrell asa military point of view, and its 
 appearance is very imposing, from whatever quarter it is 
 first approached. Though at a distance of 350 miles up 
 from the sea, the magnificent river, on which it is seated^ 
 is three miles in breadth a little below the town, and nar- 
 rows in to about a mile in breadth immediately abreast 
 of the citadel,- having, in both these parts, sufficient depth 
 of water for the largest ships in the world — a rise and 
 fall of 20 feet in its tides — and space enough in its capa- 
 cious basin, between Cape Diamond on the one hand, and 
 the Isle of Orleans on the other, to afford room and an- 
 chorage for a thousand sail of vessels at a time, sheltered 
 from all winds, and perfectly secure ! A small river, the 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 249 
 
 St. CharleSj has its junction with the St. Lawrence, a 
 little to the north of the promontory of Cape Diaraond; 
 and affords a favorable spot for ship-building and repairs, 
 as well as an excellent winter-harbor for ships lying up 
 dismantled. 
 
 " The Citadel of Quebec occupies the highest point of 
 Cape Diamond, being elevated 350 feet above the river, 
 and presenting almost perpendicular cliffs towards the 
 water. The city is built from the water's edge, along 
 the foot of these cliffs, round the point of the promontory, 
 and ascending upwards from thence to the very borders 
 of the Citadel itself. It is divided into the Lower and 
 Upper Town, the former including all that is below the 
 ramparts, or fortified lines, the latter comprehending all 
 that is above and within that barrier. Besides these, 
 there is a large Suburb, separated'from Quebec proper, by 
 the ramparts, and some open lawn beyond these on the 
 west, called the Suburb of St. Rock, on the right bank of 
 the river St. Charles, the only portion of the whole that 
 is built on level ground. 
 
 " On landing at Quebec, therefore, the traveller has to 
 wind his way up through steep, narrow, and tortu- 
 ous streets, with still narrower alleys on his right and 
 left, till he reaches the fortified line or barrier. Here he 
 enters by Prescott Gate, on the right of which, after 
 passing through it, he sees the imposing structure of the 
 New Parliament House, with its lofty Cupola and fine 
 architectural front; and on the left, a double flight of 
 mean and straggling wooden steps, leading to one of the 
 oldest streets, as an avenue to the Place d'Armes. Going 
 across this last, he passes the English and French Cathe- 
 drals, tlie Government Offices, and Palace of Justice, on 
 his right; and has the site of the old Castle of St Lewis, 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 ^nd the platform overlooking the harbor, on his left- 
 Passing by these, and continually ascending for about 
 half a mile beyond, he reaches the ramparts and gates on 
 the upper side of the city; and going through these, he 
 comes to the open lawn in front of the glacis, beyond 
 which is the Suburb of St. Roch, on the level ground along 
 the southern bank of the St. Charles river. 
 
 '' The plan of the City is as irregular as the greatest 
 enemy of symmetry could desire. The steepness of the 
 ascent from the river to the plain above, is no doubt one 
 cause of this, because it was only by making the ascend- 
 ing streets winding and tortuous, that they could be got 
 over at all; but besides this, the inequalities in the sur- 
 face even of the Upper Town, led to other irregularities 
 in the form and direction of the streets; whiltj the large 
 space occupied by the old religious establishments, still 
 further curtailing the lines in different directions, so cut 
 up the area, that there is not a single street in all Quebec, 
 which can compare, in length, breadth, or general good 
 appearance, to the King Street of Toronto, or the Notre 
 Dame of Montreal. The streets of Quebec are, there- 
 fore, in general, short, narrow, crooked, steep, wretch- 
 edly paved in the centre, still worse provided with side- 
 walks, and net lighted with lamps at night. The private 
 dwellings are in general destitute of architectural beauty, 
 and small and incommodious; some few are of wood, 
 none of brick, but the greatest number are of rough- 
 hewn stone, with high steep roofs, containing a double 
 row of projecting garret windows, very lofty chimnies, 
 and the roofs principally covered with sheets of bright 
 tin. The shops are also small and mean, and greatly in- 
 ferior, in the extent and variety of their contents, lb those 
 of Montreal and Toronto; though the prices charged are, 
 as we thought, higher here than in either of these. 
 
TOUR THROUGH CAIVADA. 251 
 
 ** The public buildings are scattered over the city with 
 80 much irregularity, that their position seems to be as 
 much the efi'ect of accident as design. Several of them, 
 however, are so prominently placed, and advantageously 
 seen that they relieve, in some degree, the general mono- 
 tony of the mass of ordinary houses, and are thus far or- 
 namental to the town; while the spires of the churches, 
 the dome of the Parliament House, and other elevated 
 points rising from the general surface, with their tinned 
 roofs glittering in the sun, give a liveliness and variety 
 to the picture presented by the city, from every point of 
 view, which no other place in Canada, and indeed few 
 places on the globe present. 
 
 *'The earliest of the public buildings erected in Que- 
 bec, was undoubtedly the Castle of St. Lewis, of which 
 Champlain laid the foundation, on the 6th of May, 1624. 
 The position chosen for it was a most ccmm-anding one; 
 on the very edge of an almost perpendicular precipice of 
 rock, 200 feet above the river, yet close to its edge; as, 
 between the cliff and the stream, there is only just room 
 enough for one narrow avenue, called Champlain-street. 
 The CEtstle erected here, was regarded as the palace of 
 the French Governors, who received in it the fealty and 
 homage of the several Sieigneurs holding their lands ac- 
 cording to the feudal tenure of the times. Nor is this 
 practice discontinued; for, according to Mr. Hawkins, in 
 his Picture of Quebiec, the Sovereignty of England hav- 
 ing succeeded to that of France, with all its ancient rights 
 and privileges, the King's Representative, in the person 
 of the English Governor, receives the same homage at 
 the present day, as was paid by the Seigneurs of former 
 times; this being one of the conditions on which the feu- 
 dal tenure is sustained. His words are these — 
 
 * Fealty and homage is rendered at this day (1834) by 
 
252 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 the Seigneurs to the Governor, as the representative o^ 
 the Sovereign, in the following form: — His Excellency 
 being in full dress, and seated in a state-chair, surround- 
 ed by his staff, and attended by the Attorney-Genernl, 
 the Seigneur in an evening dress, and Vt-earing a svv'ord, 
 is introduced into his presence by tlie Inspector- General 
 of the Royal Domain and Clerk of the Land Roll. Hav- 
 ing delivered up his sword, he kneels on one knee before 
 the Governor, and placing his right hand between those 
 of the Governor, he repeats aloud the ancient oath of fi- 
 delity; after which a solemn act is drawn up in a regis- 
 ter kept for that purpose, which is signed by the Gover- 
 nor and Seigneur, and countersigned by the proper offi- 
 cers.' 
 
 " In this castle the French and English Governors re- 
 sided till 1809, when it was found necessary to erect a 
 temporary new biiilding for their use, while the old one 
 underwent repair; and £10,000 were expended for this 
 purpose under the administration of Sir James Craig. 
 After this it continued to be the seat of government as 
 before; and all the proclamations and ordinances issued, 
 and all the messages sent to the legislative assemblies by 
 the Governor in the King^s name, were dated from the 
 Castle of Quebec. It w^as also the scene of ail the pub- 
 lic levees and private entertainments of the Governors and 
 their families; and w"as therefore the constant resort of 
 all the gay and fashionable society of the Province. In 
 1834, however, this ancient edifice was entirely destroyed 
 by a fire, which broke out on the 23rd of January, in the 
 depth of winter, when Lord Aylmer occupied it as his 
 official residence; and notwithstanding every exertion 
 made to save it, the thermometer being at 22° belovy zero, 
 and the fire-engines only capable of being worked by a 
 constant supply of warm water, the castle was soon re- 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 253 
 
 duced to ashes. It has never since been rebuilt; but 
 Lord Durham, during his short stay here, had the site 
 cleared of the ruined heaps that still covered it, and the 
 whole area of the iormer edifice levelled, floored with 
 wood, and converted into a beautiful platform, with a 
 fine iron railing at the edge of the precipice, making it 
 one of the most beautiful promenades imaginable — com- 
 manding an extensive view of the St. Lawrence down as 
 far as the Island of Orleans — the harbor filled with ships 
 immediately before it, and the opposite bank of the river, 
 with Point Levi, the village of D'Aubigny, and the road 
 leading up through one continuous line of cottages to the 
 Falls, of the Chaudiere. Nothing could exceed the beauty 
 of this, as a marine picture, during the period of ourstay 
 here; as atthatmoment there were no less than six ships 
 of war assembled for the purpose of holding a court mar- 
 tial on Captain Drew, R. N., known as the cutter-out of 
 the Caroline steamer from the American shore, at the 
 time of the late Canadian rebellion. These ships were 
 the Winchester, Admiral Sir Thomas Harvey, the Vestal, 
 Cleopatra, and Crocodile frigates, and the Pilot brig. In 
 addition to these, there w-ere not less than 300 sail of 
 merchant ships anchored in the stream, 163 of Vt'hich ar- 
 rived in two successive days, September 14th and 15th, 
 and at least 100 m.ore lay along side the quays and wharfs. 
 As the weather v/as beautifully fine, and the country still 
 verdant all around, the sight of so many ships seen from 
 a height of 200 feet above the river, with the fine extent 
 of country opposite, thickly dotted with villages and ham- 
 lets of the purest white, and the grandeur of the moun- 
 tains in the distance fading away into a lighter and lighter 
 blue, till scarcely distinguishable from the azure sky of 
 the far horizon, was beautiful and magnificent beyond 
 expression. 
 
254 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 '•' The Parliament House comes next, in the order of 
 its importance among the public buildings of Quebec. 
 The site on which this stands is of even earlier date than 
 that of the Castle of St. Lewis j there being good reason 
 to believe that it occupies the first spot of ground which 
 was cleared by Champlain, for his fort, on founding the 
 city, in 1608. Here, too, as at the Castle, the site stands 
 on a mass of rock made level by art, and extending to 
 the brink of a perpendicular precipice, of about 100 feet 
 above the river, the narrowest part of which is com- 
 manded by its guns. Along the edge of this precipice, 
 beyond the area occupied by the Parliament House, still 
 runs the Grand Battery of Quebec, the promenade on 
 which, and the view from its platform is scarcely infe- 
 rior to that already described on the site of the old Cas- 
 tle of St. Lewis. On this spot, originally cleared for a 
 fort, the palace of the Bishop was subsequently erected; 
 and a portion of the old episcopal residence still continues 
 there ; but the greater portion of it is occupied by the 
 New Parliament House, begun about ten years ago, and 
 not yet completed, though promising, when finished, to 
 form one of the most perfect of the public buildings of 
 the city. 
 
 " Among the public buildings in the Lower Town, 
 there is a Custom-House, a Mercantile Exchange, and a 
 Public News Room, neither of which, however, present 
 any remarkable features. Indeed, all the lower part of 
 the town is destitute of architectural beauty, though 
 there is something romantic in the overhanging cliffs of 
 the Citadel, the Castle, and the Sault-aux-Matelot, with 
 the batteries of cannon, projecting over all these, from 
 100 to 350 feet above the heads of the spectators, as they 
 lo»k upward towards these several points. 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 255 
 
 " The SauIt-aux-Matelot was the name given to the 
 cliff on whose brow the Grand Battery is now placed. 
 The alleged origin of the name is this : that it was 
 meant to commemorate the extraordinary leap of a dog 
 called Matelct, who made a ' sault' from hence to the 
 river below, and escaped without hurt. It is probable 
 that in early days, the river came up to the very foot of 
 the rock, but in process of time, a considerable space has 
 been gained from the stream outward from the rock, and 
 on this has been built the street called Sault-aux-Mateloty 
 (from the back windows of the houses of which you can 
 put out your hand and touch the perpendicular cliff be» 
 hind them,) as well as the street of St. Paul, and the 
 wharfs now used for loading and landing. There is also 
 a Trinity House in the Lower Town, managed by the 
 Masters and Wardens of the Holy Trinity, and perform- 
 ing nearly the same duties as are discharged by the Trin- 
 ity Houses of London, Deptford, andKingston-upon-Hull, 
 for the regulation of pilots and the navigation of the 
 river." 
 
 The churches and religious establishments of Quebec 
 are numerous, and well worthy of a visit by strangers. 
 The building of the Hotel Lieu, is seated in the lowest 
 part of the Upper Town, within the ramparts, between 
 Hope Gate and Palace Gate. This is a substantial old 
 structure, built of stone, with wings and corridors, hav- 
 ing three stories in height, appropriated to the separate 
 wards for the male and female sick, and the necessary 
 accommodations for the Nuns and their assistants. There 
 is a beautiful chapel attached to the Hotel Dieu, in which 
 mass is celebrated every morning, and vespers said every 
 evening, besides the regular service on Sundays and fes- 
 tivals. 
 
 The building occupied by the Ursuline Nuns, stands 
 nearly in the middle of the Upper Town of Quebec, not 
 
256 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 far from the English and French Cathedrals, the court- 
 house, and the Place D'Armes, and with its surrounding 
 gardens, covers a space of seven acres of ground. With- 
 in the v^-alls of this Convent, vras deposited the body of 
 the French general Montcalm, his corpse being laid in a 
 hollow pit, caused by the bursting of a shell there, dur- 
 ing the seige of Quebec. The number of the Ursuline 
 Nuns at present in the Convent is about forty, besides the 
 Lady Superior, and some few Noviciates. 
 
 The Catholic Seminary, and Cathedral, both founded 
 about 1660, are situated near Market Square, in the 
 heart of the town. The exterior of the latter is plain, 
 but its tower is lofty and well proportioned to the edifice. 
 There are four other Catholic churches besides the Ca- 
 thedral. 
 
 Besides the English Cathedral, there are also in Que- 
 bec, four Chapels of the church of England ; two Scotch 
 churches, and two Wesleyan chapels. 
 
 Census or the City and County of Quebec. 
 
 Copied from the Quebec Gazette. May. 1844. 
 
 Population of the city of Quebec, 32,876 
 
 Residue of the county, 12,800 
 
 Total city and county, 45,676 
 
 Of these there are, 
 
 Natives of England, 1,598 
 
 " Ireland, 7,267 
 
 •* Scotland, 981 
 
 " Canadians of French origin, 27,698 
 
 " Canadians of British origin, 7,734 
 
 ** Continent of Europe or otherwise, .... 276 
 
 " United States,. 122 
 
 Total, , 45,676 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 257 
 
 The religious connexions are as follows : 
 
 Belonging to the Church of England, 5,494 
 
 '' " '' Scotland, 2,569 
 
 '' " Rome, 36,371 
 
 British Wesleyan Methodists, 851 
 
 Canadian " " 24 
 
 Other Methodists, 2 
 
 Presbyterians not in connection with the church of 
 
 Scotland, 123 
 
 Congregationalists and Independents, 189 
 
 Baptists and Anabaptists, 29 
 
 Lutherans, 3 
 
 Quakers, 8 
 
 Jews, 13 
 
 Total, 45,676 
 
 The following is an English account of the attack on 
 Quebec, by Montgomery and Arnold, in 1775, and 1776. 
 
 '' At the period of the American Revolution, it is well 
 known, that Canada did not join the revolted Colonies, 
 but continued firm in her allegiance to the crown ; and 
 hence it became the land of refuge to the many loyalists 
 who were driven from the United States by the success 
 of their war of Independence. As it was believed, 
 however, by the Americans of that day, that an attack 
 on Quebec would be successful, and if so, would induce 
 all Canada to join their cause, such an attack was plan- 
 ned, and its execution committed to two American Ge- 
 nerals, Montgomery and Arnold. The British troops 
 usually retained in Canada for its defence, had been sent 
 on to Boston, so that the Province was almost destitute 
 of military force, there being scattered throughout all 
 Canada only about 800 men. In this state of things, 
 Gen. Montgomery advanced from Lake Champlain on St. 
 John's, and after a short resistance took it ; he then 
 marched on against Montreal, which being perfectly de- 
 fenceless, surrendered to the American arms on the 12th 
 
"258 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 November, 1775. At the same time, Gen. Arnold was 
 known to Montajomery, to be advancing towards Quebec, 
 from the New-England States, by way of the Kennebec river 
 through Maine, which at this late period of the year was 
 a most daring undertaking. After passing thirty-two 
 days in the wild forests and swamps, and suffering al- 
 most incredible hardships and privations in this hitherto 
 untrodden wilderness, Arnold and his followers reached 
 the banks of the St. Lawrence, by the Chaudiere river, 
 on the 4th of November, in the same year. From thence 
 they descended to Point Levi, opposite to Quebec, where 
 they arrived on the 9th, crossed over on the night of the 
 I3th, and landed 500 men at Wolfe's Cove, without be- 
 ing perceived either by the sentries or from the ships of 
 war. 
 
 " On the 1st of December, this force was joined by a 
 much larger one under Gen. Montgomery, from Montreal. 
 By these two, the city was invested, and several bom- 
 bardments of it made with shot and shells, but without 
 producing much effect A night attack was at length de- 
 termined on b)'^ Monigomery, on the southern, and Ar- 
 nold on the northern side of the Lower Town. Both at- 
 tacks were made with great courage and impetuosity, 
 but both failed. In the former. Gen. Montgomery and 
 nearly all his personal staff were killed ; in the latter, 
 Gen. Arnold was wounded, and with most of his follow- 
 ers taken prisoners. The loss of the Americans in these 
 attacks was upwards of ICO killed and wounded, and of 
 the British, only one naval officer killed, and seventeen 
 men killed and wounded. The Americans did not, how- 
 ever, give up the attempt to reduce Quebec ; as, during 
 all the winter following, they continued to receive re-in- 
 forcements, and to invest the town ; and in the spring of 
 the ensuing year, May 1776, they renewed their attack 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 2&9 
 
 on the Citadel. Gen. Carleton, the English commander 
 of the garrison, having received an important accession 
 to his force, by the arrival of a small squadron under 
 the command of Sir Charles Douglas, bringing to his aid, 
 provisions, ammunition and men, was enabled to baffle 
 every attempt made en the city, and ultimately to make 
 a sally on the enemy, v^^hen they retreated, and abandoned 
 their post. 
 
 " This was the last attack made on Quebec by any 
 foreign foe, and as since that period the Citadel has been 
 gradually strengthened and improved, under every suc- 
 cessive Governor of the Province, it is now in a condi- 
 tion to resist ten times the force ever yet brought against 
 it, and could not, so long as it contained supplies of pro- 
 visions, and an adequate number of brave and faithful 
 men, be conquered by any force likely to be brought 
 against it from this continent." 
 
 EXCURSIONS IN THE VICINITY OF QUEBEC. 
 
 The places of resort well worthy of a visit in the vi- 
 cinity of Quebec, are numerous and exceedingly interest* 
 ing. The roads are mostly good, and the obliging French 
 drivers are reasonable in their charges. 
 
 The objects most attractive to Tourists, are the Falls 
 of Montmorenci. 9 miles northeast j the Falls of the 
 Chaudiere, 12 miles southwest; the Lake St. Charles, 
 16 miles northwest, and the Indian village of Lorette, 
 on the road to the Lake, about 8 miles distant. The 
 drive from Quebec to Cape Rouge, 8 miles along the 
 bank of the river, passing over the Plains of Abraham, 
 by the way of the St. Lewis road, is also a most delight- 
 ful one. 
 
269 tour through canada. 
 
 Falls of Montmokenci. 
 In going to the Falls of Montmorenci, which should be 
 visited by every lover of picturesque natural scenery, you 
 pass through the suburbs of Quebec, mostly inhabited by 
 French Canaidians, and cross the river St. Charles, near 
 its mouth, by a vv^ooden toll bridge. Here are situated 
 on the road side several pretty country residences, on the 
 route to Beauport, which is a long scattered village about 
 half-way between Quebec and Montmorenci, although 
 for most of the distance there are dwellings so contiguous 
 as to appear like one continued settleii-ient. At Beauport 
 there is a Roman Catholic church, v/ith three spires ; and 
 a little further north may be seen a neat monument and 
 cross near the road, where are frequently found per- 
 sons kneeling at their devotions. 
 
 On reaching the Falls of Montmorenci, many are disap- 
 pointed at the small volume of water, after seeing the 
 mighty cataract of Niagara, yet these falls possess a 
 grandeur in miniature, which it is difficult to find excel- 
 led. The river Montmorenci comes from the northwest 
 in a stream about sixty yards wide, and it is not until it 
 almost reaches the very edge of the St. Lawrence, which 
 it enters at right angles with its course, that the water 
 descends over a cliff, the stream literally falling into the 
 St. Lawrence below. The perpendicular height of the 
 fall is about 250 feet. 
 
 There are extensive saw-mills on the south bank of the 
 river below the falls which are propelled by water power 
 taken from the stream above, and conveyed for about 
 half a mile in a race way. These mills have, upwards 
 of a hundred saws in motion at a time, and are said to be 
 capable of completing an entire cargo of planks in a sin- 
 gle day ! In winter the spray arising from the fails is 
 congealed, and often presents a conical mass of ice 100 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 261 
 
 feet and upwards in height. It was on the high grounds 
 north of the falls, that Gen. Wolfe met his first repulse, 
 when he attacked the French, a short time before his 
 triumph on the plains of Abraham. He was here driven 
 back, and compelled to re- embark, with the loss of 700 
 engaged in the assault. 
 
 On returning to Quebec there is afforded a splendid 
 view of the city and Citadel — the St. Lawrence, and 
 the opposite shore above and below Point Levi — the 
 beautiful Island of Orleans, opposite the falls, and the 
 rich valley of the St. Charles. 
 
 Chatjdiere Falls. 
 The excursion to the Falls of the Chaudiere, on the 
 opposite side of the St. Lawrence river, about 12 miles 
 distant from the city in a southerly direction, is one of 
 much interest. The perpendicular fall of the cascade is 
 a little more than a hundred feet, but the mass of waters 
 is so romantically broken by projecting rocks, as to pro- 
 duce a turbulence and fury in its descent which is wild 
 and picturesque in the highest degree. 
 
 Excursion to Cape Rouge. 
 On this excursion you leave the city by the St. Lewis 
 Gate, and cross the Plains of Abraham, to the right of 
 the spot where Wolfe fell. A mile from the gate is the 
 , Race Course, which is thronged during the Spring and Fall 
 i-aces ; and a mile further a road branching to the left, 
 leads to Wolfe^s Cove, celebrated as the place where he 
 landed with his army previous to the capture of Quebec, 
 but now occupied by an extensive ship-yard and lumber- 
 yard. The road beyond runs for some distance through 
 a fine grove, with avenues leading to various pleasant 
 country residences over-looking the river, of which j'^ou 
 catch as you pass along occasional glimpses, together 
 
262 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 with the opposite shore in the neighborhood of the Chan- 
 diere Falls. 
 
 Returning by the St. Foi road and facing toward the 
 city, the prospect is far wider and more magnificent. 
 Below and to the left stretches the line cultivated valley 
 of the St. Charles, bounded on the northwest by a pic- 
 turesque range of mountains, the settlements reaching to 
 their very base, with villages and church spires scattered 
 over the iiitervening region j in another direction appear 
 the Falls of the Montmorenci and the Isle of Orleans, 
 and in front spreads the harbor of Quebec, with the bold 
 clifi's of Cape Diamond and Point Levi, rising perpendi- 
 / cularly on each side, the former being crowned with im- 
 pregnable bulwarks. 
 
 TFIE ST. LAWRENCE AND SAGUENAY RIVERS. 
 
 As a trip down the St. Lawrence to the river Sague- 
 nay, has within the last year or two, become a fashiona- 
 ble and exceedingly interesting steamboat excursion from 
 Quebec, we subjoin an account of such a trip, made on 
 board the steamer North America, August, 1843. 
 
 As the steamboat left the wharf, she took a graceful 
 turn up stream, passing the Illustrious, a 74 gun ship, 
 and the government steamer Unicorn, and then descend- 
 ing run close under Point Levi, affording a fine view of 
 the city and Citadel of Quebec. The beautiful line of 
 settlements below the city on the same side of the river, 
 next attract attention, the view in the distance being 
 bounded by hills, apparently elevated 1,500 to 2.000 feet 
 above the waters of the St. Lawrence. 
 
 The romantic Falls of Montmorenci, 7 miles be- 
 low Quebec, are seen to great advantage from the St- 
 Lawrence, plunging over an almost perpendicular preci- 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 263 
 
 'of 240 feet directly into this great river. Immediately 
 below, on the bank of the St. Lawrence, was fought a 
 severe battle between the English and French armies, 
 ^ short lime previous to the capture of Quebec by Gen. 
 Wolfe, in 1759, in which the British were repulsed with 
 'Considerable loss. 
 
 The Island of Orleans, is next passed en the left, 
 descending the river through the principal ship channel. 
 This is a fertile tract, 21 miles long by 6 or 7 wide, and 
 in part covered with a beautiful growth of forest. It 
 rises from 50 to 100 feet above the water, and the stream 
 of the St. Lawrence being here divided, the aspect of the 
 -shores at once reminds yoii of the scenery of the Hudson 
 river above the Highlands. 
 
 St. Patrick's Hole, 11 miles below Quebec, on the 
 Orleans shore, affords a fine anchorage for vessels of the 
 largest size. It v/as here, some 20 years ago. that the 
 immense timber ship was built, supposed to be the largest 
 vessel, by far, that ever crossed the Atlantic. 
 
 The Parish of St. Laurent, 14 miles below Quebec, 
 is handsomely situated on the southeast side of the island, 
 which is settled exclusively by French Canadians, mostly 
 cngaged'in cultivating the soil. The dwellings have a 
 remarkably neat look, being one story high with both 
 roof and sides painted white. 
 
 The southeast shore of the St. Lawrence, for many miles 
 belov/ Point Levi, presents a succession of villages and 
 hamlets, consisting each of a cluster of houses with a 
 church standing in the midst, and with its aspect of guar- 
 dianship and guidance to the families dwelling around, 
 imparting to the landscape a moral expression, which 
 greatly enhances its picturesque beauty. 
 
 The vessels usually seen on this part of the St. Law- 
 rence, are of the larger class of merchant ships. The 
 
264 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 arrivals at the port of Quebec average some 1 ,200 to 
 1,400 annually, mostly from Great Britain, and besides 
 other colonial produce, they car&y back immense quanti- 
 ties of timber and lumber. 
 
 Madam Islan^ 26 miles from Quebec, is one of se- 
 veral small islan(}s lying below Orleans. The river here 
 widens to 10 miles, vi^hich gradually increases all the 
 vi-ay to its mouth ; and for most of the distance there are 
 two ship channels, called the north and south channels, 
 the latter being the best and most navigated. 
 
 Cape Tourment, 30 miles below Quebec, is a bold 
 promontory on the northwest side of the river rising to 
 the height of about 2,000 feet, and seen at a great dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Grosse Island, opposite Cape Tourment, is the 
 Quarantine Station for vessels ascending the river, and 
 it has a hospital, a Roman Catholic Chapel, and other 
 buildings usually connected with such an establishment. 
 
 St. Thomas, 32 miles from Quebec, on the southeast 
 shore, is situated at the mouth of a stream called South 
 river. The shore of the St. Lawrence is lined with a 
 succession of dwellings for many miles below, with high 
 grounds rising in the distance, beyond which may 
 occasionally be seen the hills formerly claimed by the 
 Americans, as the boundary between the state of Maine 
 and Canada. 
 
 Crane Island, 38 miles below Quebec, is fertile and 
 settled. Its north end is adorned with the delightful resi- 
 dence of the Seignuer. 
 
 Goose Island, 45 miles from Quebec, is owned by the 
 Nuns, and is cultivated as a farm, by tenants. 
 
 The Pillars, 55 miles below Quebec, is the name 
 given to several small rocky islets, on one of which 
 stands a light-house. Here the scenery is peculiarly 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 265 
 
 grand and interesting. The vast estuary of the river be- 
 low looks indeed like an opening to the ocean. The shores 
 for some 10 miles onward are studded with shining 
 residences, while the hills in the distance, on both sides, 
 resemble very much the scenery bordering the widest part 
 of Lake Champlain. 
 
 Sixty miles below Quebec, is the remarkable channel 
 called the Traverse. A floating light guides the mariner 
 by night through this narrow and dangerous passage. 
 
 Isle aux Coudres, (Isle of Filberts,) is a large body 
 of land lying toward the north shore, opposite the Bay 
 of St. Paul's, and about 65 miles from Quebec. It is 
 said that when Jacques Cartier, anchored here, on his 
 first voyage of discovery up the St. Lawrence, he gave 
 this island the name it yet bears, from the great quantity 
 of filberts, or hazel nuts, which he found there. 
 
 St. Anne stands on the southeast shore, on a bay of 
 the same name. Here is a Catholic College and a settle- 
 ment of considerable size, about 70 miles from Quebec. 
 
 As you approach Goose Cape, 75 miles below Quebec, 
 the banks of the river seem to decline in the distance ; 
 the river now being free of islands, presents a large ex- 
 panse of water, here being about 18 miles wide. 
 
 Mal Bay, 80 miles below Quebec, lies on the north- 
 west side of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth of a river 
 of the same name. This is a fine section of country, 
 producing wheat and other kinds of grain in abundance. 
 Beyond this place is seen a beautiful range of hills, ter- 
 minating at Cape Eagle and Cape Salmon on the east 
 
 Kamouraska, situated 90 miles below Quebec, on the 
 southeast side of the river, contains about 1,500 inhabi- 
 tants, and is surrounded by a fruitful district. Vessels 
 can land here only at high water; at low water, passen- 
 gers are taken ashore in small boats. In the rear of this 
 
^66 TOUR TI1310UGH CA1VAT)*A. 
 
 village are seen abrupt and sterile hills with little or no? 
 verdure. In front are two or three small islands, chiefly 
 resorted to for fishing and bathing, this being a favorite 
 resort during the summer months, for the citizens of Mon- 
 treal and Quebec, and is no doubt destined to become a 
 fashionable watering place, where sea bathing can be en- 
 joyed by invalids and seekers of pleasure. 
 
 About 105 miles below Quebec are the Pilgrim Islands,. 
 a group of rocky islets which are passed to the right. 
 On the left, a few miles below, is Hare Island, situated 
 near the middle of the river. 
 
 The settlement at the River Du Loup, 120 miles be- 
 low Quebec, on the southeast side of the St. Lawrence, 
 contains about 1,500 inhabitants. Here commences the 
 great road from the St. Lawrence river to the St. John's,, 
 by the way of the Madav/aska river and settlement. 
 
 Red Island lies off the the mouth cf the Saguenay,. 
 this being the first island of the small group met on as- 
 cending the St. Lawrence. It is destitute of a light and 
 has caused many shipwrecks during the prevalence of 
 fogs and storms, so frequent on the lower part of the river 
 and Gulf of St. Lawrence. Green Island lies nearly 
 opposite Red Island, on the south east. 
 
 As you approach the mouth of the Saguenay, the wa- 
 ters take a very black hue, perceivable for many miles 
 below, and extending far into the St. Lawrence. Just 
 within the mouth of the river, near Tadousac, there is a 
 round mountain peak, called Tete du Boule, about 800 
 feet high. 
 
 Tadousac, 140 miles below Quebec, is situated on 
 the northwest shore of the St. Lawrence, at the mouth 
 of the Saguenay river. This is a post belonging to the 
 Hudson Bay Company, and is the residence of one of its 
 partners and an agent. They alone are allowed to trade 
 
 # 
 
TOUR THKOUGII CANADA. 267 
 
 with the Indians in the interior, who occasionaliy visit 
 this place, but more frequently Chicoutimi, at the head 
 of navigation on the Saguenay, and the post at the Lake 
 of St. John, where some of thecorapany's agents also 
 reside. At Tadousac is a Roman Catholic Chapel, a 
 store and ware-house, and some 8 or 10 dwellings. Here 
 is erected a flag staff, surrounded by several pieces of 
 cannon, on an eminence elevated about 50 feet and over 
 looking the inner harbor, where is a sufficient depth of 
 water to float the largest vessels. This place was early 
 settled by the French, who are said to have here erected 
 the first dwelling built of stone and mortar in Canada, 
 and the remains of it are still to be seen. The view is 
 exceedingly picturesque from this point. The southern 
 shore of the St. Lawrence, may be traced even with the 
 naked eye for many a league — the undulating lines of 
 snow white cottages stretching far away, both east and 
 west — while the scene is rendered gay and animated by 
 the frequent passage of the merchant vessel ploughing its 
 way towards the port of Quebec, or hurrying upon the 
 descending tide to the Gulf — while from the summit of 
 the hill upon which Tadousac stands, the sublime and 
 impressive scenery of the Saguenay rises into view. 
 
 We extract from the Report of the Commissioners for 
 exploring the Saguenay, published in 1829 : the following: 
 
 " Upon landing at Tadousac, we proceeded immediate- 
 ly to examine a few of the geognostical characters of the 
 country. The only place of residence here is erected on 
 a bank of sandy alluvium, elevated about fifty feet above 
 the river, and forming a flat terrace at the base of the 
 mountain, which suddenly emerges at a short distance 
 behind. The rocks of which these mountains are com- 
 posed is granite, either of a red or grey color, depending 
 upon that of the feldspar. On the shore were seen small 
 
268 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 deposits of magnetic iron. Here bases were measured, 
 and the requisites angle taken, for determining tlie height 
 of the most elevated point on either side of the Saguenay 
 at its mouth, and this was found to be 912 feet on the 
 westerly side, and 588 on the opposite." 
 
 L'ance a L'eait, or Water Harbor, situated on the 
 Saguenay, about a half a mile above Tadousac, is the 
 name of a settlement where is an extensive lumber estab- 
 lishment. 
 
 The St. Lawrence River, below the mouth of the 
 Saguenay, assumes an imposing appearance, gradually 
 widening until its breadth exceeds one hundred miles. 
 The following descriptioa of this mighty river, is ex- 
 tracted from Mr. Buckingham's late work on Canada, pub- 
 lished in 1843. 
 
 "From this point, where the Saguenay joins the St. 
 Lawrence, the distance from shore to shore, across the 
 latter stream, exceeds 20 miles, and the width goes on 
 increasing till it expands to forty miles from Cape Chat 
 to Cape des Monts Pelles. From thence it goes on still 
 further, expanding till it reaches the breadth of about 120 
 miles, from shore to shore, in a line drawn from the ex- 
 treme point of Gaspe, due north across the western edge 
 of the Island of Anticosti, and so on to the coast of La- 
 brador. Through this magnificent mouth of the river, 
 we pass into the Gulf of St. Lawrence ; having thus 
 traced the noble stream, from the Island of Mackinaw, in 
 the straits of Michillimackinac, at the head of Lake Hu- 
 ron, down to the Island of Anticosti ; a distance of at 
 least 2,000 miles, through a chain of the most splendid 
 lakes in the world, and with almost every variety of 
 scenery along its majestic course." 
 
 For a further description of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 
 and voyage to Halifax, see " Buckingham's Canada, 
 Nova-Scotia, &c." 
 
TOUll THROUGH CANADA. 269 
 
 THE SAGUENAY. 
 
 '^ This river has its mouth, according to common compu- 
 tation, 140 miles below Quebec, on the north shore of the 
 St. Lawrence, in latitude 48 deg. 6 min. 38 sec, long. 70 
 deg. 40 min. west from Greenwich. It discharges a much 
 greater body of water than any other river that falls into 
 the St. Lawrence. Indeed it is the largest river in North 
 America, the St. Lawrence excepted, east of the Alle- 
 ghanies. 
 
 '' It takes the name of Saguenay only below Lake St. 
 John, which lies about 120 miles N. by W. of Quebec. 
 From Tadousac, a distance of about 140 miles to the 
 lake, the course of the river is nearly east and west, Ta- 
 dousac being, as before stated, in lat. 48 deg. 6 min. 38 
 sec, and the south side of Lake St. John in 48 deg. 23 
 min. 12 sec, giving only 16 miles to the north of Ta- 
 dousac." 
 
 This lake, which is nearly circular^ is about 40 miles 
 across, and it is the centre of an extensive region the wa- 
 ters of which flow into it from the north, the west, and 
 the south, in twelve principal rivers, and are discharged 
 to the east by the Saguenay. 
 
 The streams which flow into this lake from the south, 
 the west and the northwest, have their sources in a moun- 
 tainous tract which ranges nearly east and west for a 
 long distance, and then, far in the west, bends northward- 
 ly, separating these waters from those which seek the 
 St. Lawrence above Quebec and the Ottawa, and regard- 
 ing them in their still wider relations, they are part of 
 the extensive range of highlands which divide the basin 
 of the St. Lawrence from that of Hudson's Bay and its 
 tributaries. 
 
 " The country, the waters of which are discharged into 
 the St. Lawrence, by the Saguenay, is more extensive 
 than all the rest of Lower Canada; but it has till lately 
 
270 TOUR THROUGH CAMADA. 
 
 contained, probably, not more th"n a hundred Indian fa- 
 milies, who live by hunting and fishing, and exchange their 
 surplus with lessees of the King's Post, for a few articles 
 of imported produce. 
 
 " The passage of the waters of the Saguenay, from be- 
 low the Ha-IIa Bay to the St. Lawrence, a .distance of 
 fifty miles, is one of the wonders of nature. They pene- 
 trate through a mountainous tract, composed of sienite 
 granite, forming an immense canal in many places, with 
 banks of perpendicular rocks rising from a thousand to 
 fifteen hundred feet above the surface of the river, which 
 is from a hundred to a hundred and fifty fathoms deep 
 nearly the whole way, and from a mile to three miles 
 broad. The power and pride of^ man is as much hum- 
 bled in some parts of this tremendous chasm, as in the 
 immediate presence of Niagara Falls. In many places 
 the largest vessel may run close to the perpendicular 
 rocks, with 100 fathoms water. There are, however, se- 
 veral coves with good anchorage. In Ha-Ha Bay the 
 Navy of England might ride, in from five to eighty fa- 
 thoms. At twelve miles below Chicoutimi, which is dis- 
 tant 68 miles from Tadousac, the spring tide rises 18 
 feet, and there is from 10 to 50 fathoms at low water. 
 The tide rises and the river is navigable seven miles 
 above Chicoutimi, where the rapids of the outlet of Lake 
 St. John commence. At this point a range of high- 
 lands crosses the Saguenay, extending along the head 
 waters of the Malbay, the Gouflre, the Jacques Cartier, 
 St. Anne, Batiscan, and St. Maurice, and forming the 
 south and western side of the basin of Lake St. John, 
 with the Hudson's Bay highlands on the north and east. 
 
 " It is only within a few years that there have been any 
 agricultural settlers in the Saguenay country. At present 
 there are a few hundred families of squatters from the 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 271 
 
 north shore below Quebec, chiefly induced to go in by 
 employment in lumbering, &cc., for Mr. Price's numerous 
 saw-mills. At Ha-Ha Bay, there is a church, and about 
 150 families, and openings are made at various places on 
 the river. The soil is of disintegrated clay and granite, 
 with limestone in some places. The general level of the 
 land above Ha-Ha Bay, as far as the eye can reach from 
 the river, is not higher than the island of Orleans, al- 
 though more broken. The timber mixed, hard and soft, 
 and of a middling grow^th. The climate is milder, if any 
 thing, than at Quebec. With the exception of the ridge 
 crossing below Lake St. John, already mentioned, the 
 country to a great extent round the lake, but particularly 
 on the southwest side, is of the same character." 
 
 " On entering the Saguenay from Tadousac, which is 
 about one mile wide at its mouth, the hills soon rise ab- 
 ruptly from the water's edge, from 500 to 1000 feet above 
 the tide way, presenting an appearance somewhat simi- 
 lar to the entrance from the north into the " Highlands" 
 of the Hudson river, with which most travellers are fa- 
 miliar, divested, however, of all appearance of habita- 
 tion for many miles, and the Saguenay averaging twice 
 the width of the Hudson. 
 
 Tete du Boule, a round mountain peak, rises on the 
 north side of the river, about one mile from its mouth. 
 Here the rocks and hills are mostly bare, but the verdure 
 increases as you ascend. 
 
 About three miles from Tadousac, the river inclines to 
 the north for a few miles, then resumes its western course 
 to Chicoutimi, a distance of sixty-eight miles from the 
 St. Lawrence, and being in many places three miles in 
 width, with a great depth of water, until you arrive at 
 the bar, sixty miles from its mouth. 
 
272 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 The Two Profiles, seen on the north shore, a few 
 miles up, and elevated several hundred feet above the wa,- 
 ter, bear a striking resemblance to the human face. 
 
 St. Louis Island presents a rocky and rugged appear, 
 ance. It lies eighteen miles above Tadousac, and may 
 be passed by large vessels on either side. Here, it is 
 said, fine trout may be taken in large quantities. 
 
 At the mouth of the river Marguerite, on the north 
 shore, and at St. John's Bay, on the south, are lumber 
 establishments, — the latter situated twenty- eight miles 
 above the mouth of the Saguenay. 
 
 At the distance of 34 miles from Tadousac, on the 
 south shore of the river, are two enormous masses of 
 rock called Eternity Point and Cape Trinity. They 
 rise from the water's edge to the height of some 1,500 feet, 
 and so abruptly that they can almost be touched with the 
 hand from the deck of the passing steamer. The aspect 
 of these mountain- cliffs is beyond expression grand. No 
 man can pass along their base and lift his eyes up their 
 vast height, without awe — without experiencing the most 
 intense emotions of sublimity. Sheltered between them 
 is a lovely recess of the shore, called Trinity Cove, its se- 
 questered and lonely beauty enhanced by its strong con- 
 trast with the wild grandeur of the rest of the scene. 
 
 Trinity Cape takes its name from the three peaks of 
 its summit, bearing some resemblance to three human 
 heads,- and the name of Etijrnity Point is abundantly 
 indicated by the huge pile of ever-during rock of which 
 it is composed. The whole scene — the majestic river, a 
 hundred fathoms deep, rolling along the base and in the 
 shadows of the vast and beetling cliffs, bearing on their 
 rocky fronts the impress of Almighty power and ever- 
 lasting duration— ^the whole scene at this place is unsur- 
 passed for its magnificence and solemn beauty. 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 273 
 
 Contiiming up the Saguenay, Statue Point is next 
 passed, where formerly was to be seen a rock in a niche, 
 high above the water, which resembled a huge human 
 fis:ure. The niche is still visible, but the figure has fallen 
 into the deep water. 
 
 The Tableau is an upright rock, rising almost perpen- 
 dicularly from the water, to the height of several hun- 
 dred feet, situated on the south shore. 
 
 The scenery in this vicinity, and for several miles below, 
 is exceedingly grand and picturesque, — high and precipi- 
 tous hills, clothed with a stunted growth of forest trees, 
 and all around a wild solitude, unbroken by a sign ol 
 habitation or life, except occasionally a huge porpoise 
 showing his back above the wave, and the water-fowl 
 peculiar to these northern latitudes. 
 
 Fifty-seven miles from Tadousac opens the Ha-Ha, or 
 Great Bay, as it is sometimes called. It is entered on 
 the left, while the Saguenay proper comes down on the 
 right. At the head of the bay there is a large settlement, 
 with several extensive saw-mills, owned by Wm. Price, 
 Esq., an enterprising merchant of Quebec, who is said to 
 give employment to 2,000 persons, living in the vicinity 
 of the Saguenay and St. Lawrence, principally in the 
 lumbering business. 
 
 From the entrance to Ha-Ha bay to Chicoutimi, a dis- 
 tance of about twelve miles, the banks of the river are 
 less rugged and are clothed with more verdure, and ope- 
 nings may now be seen on both shores, with occasionally 
 a habitation. About six miles below Chicoutimi there 
 is a bar, which can be passed by vessels of a large size 
 only when the tide is up, this being the first impediment 
 to navigation in ascending this noble river, which for 
 grandeur of scenery and depth of water, may vie with any- 
 other stream on the American continent. 
 
274 TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 
 
 Chicoutimi, 68 miles from Tadousac, is another pest 
 occupied by the Hudson Baj' Company, which has a re- 
 fiident agent stationed here. Two or three dwellings and 
 a venerable looking Roman Catholic chapel of small di- 
 mensions constitute the settlement. It is one of those 
 stations where, in former days, the indefatigable Jesuits 
 established a home for themselves : a church yet remains 
 to attest their religious zeal. This edifice is believed to 
 have been one of the first erected in Canada. The loca- 
 lity selected is singularly picturesque and romantic. Oa 
 one side the Saguenay pours down its mighty flood, the 
 shores on either side covered to the water's edge with the 
 most luxuriant foilage, while, on the other side, a safe 
 and commodious bay receives the mountain torrent of the 
 Chicoutimi river. 
 
 The church, a peculiarly agreeable object in so remote 
 a spot, stands about 100 yards from the margin of the 
 stream, in the centre of a plat of green-sward set out with 
 shrubbery, and forest trees crown the rising ground in 
 the rear. Here assemble at stated periods the children of 
 the soil; some from the region of the far north — the lailh 
 which their fathers were taught in earlier ages, leading 
 them to reverence a spot hallowed by traditional associ- 
 ations. 
 
 " The region of the Saguenay cannot long remain si- 
 lent and unoccupied. It is destined to become the home 
 of an active and enterprising race. The climate is well 
 adapted to the purposes of agriculture and the virgin soil 
 cannot fail to repay the labors of the farmer. 
 
 '^ The aspect of the country around Chicoutinai is di- 
 vested of the rugged and rocky character which distin- 
 guishes the banks of the Saguenay for the first 50 miles, 
 and as the traveller advances inland the appearance of 
 the country indicates a superior soil — while the climate 
 
TOUR THROUGH CANADA. 275 
 
 in the vicinity of Lake St. John approaches very closely 
 to that of the Montreal district." 
 
 Taken altogether, few excursions can afford more in- 
 terest to the tourist and seeker cf pleasure, than a visit 
 to this place and its vicinity. Besides having a view of 
 the magnificent scenery of the St. LawTence, there maybe 
 here seen a picturesque water-fall, and if fond of angling 
 or hunting, the visiter may enjoy himself to his heart's 
 content — surrounded by a vast wilderness, as yet almost 
 unbroken by the haunts of man. 
 
 This excursion occupies from three to four days, after 
 leaving Quebec. 
 
 VALUE OF MONEYS. 
 
 The following information will be found valuable to 
 strangers visiting Canada, and particularly to emigrants 
 bringing with them sterling money. 
 
 Value of Colonial Monies. 
 
 The basis of the currency is the imperial gold standard, 
 differing from sterling money in the different nominal 
 value of the pound and its constituents. 
 
 The pound sterling is by law fixed at Twenty-Four shil- 
 lings and Four-Pence currency. At this rate all large 
 transactions are settled, and remittances, with the cor- 
 rection of the day for exchange, are calculated. 
 
 One pound currency, contains four dollars. 
 One dollar " " five shillings. 
 
 One shilling '' " two sixpences. 
 
 One sixpence '•' " six pennies. 
 
 One penny " " two coppers. 
 
 The value in sterling of the pound currency is rather 
 
 over 16s. 5:^^d. 
 
 The dollar currency rather over 4s. l]d. 
 
 " shilling " " 95d. 
 
 " sixpence " rather under 5d. 
 
 But in retail transactions an approximation is made ta 
 
276 VALU\E OF MOKEYS. 
 
 the value of the coins current in Britain and #he United 
 States, and in small purchases the following are the rates 
 at which such coins are usually paid away: — 
 
 BRITISH. 
 
 The sovereign, £1 4s. 6d. 
 
 The crown, 6s. Id. 
 
 Half crown, 3s. O^d. 
 
 Shilling, called Trente-Sous, Is. 3d. 
 
 Sixpence, " Quinze-Sous, 7|d. 
 
 AMERICAN. 
 
 Eagle, £2 10s. 
 
 Dollar 5s. Id. 
 
 Half dollar, 2s. 6U. 
 
 Dime, or ten cents, 6d. 
 
 Real, or Yo7~k shilling, T^d. 
 
 A shilling sterling and a quarter of a dollar are taken 
 in the stores as equal. The exchangeable value of the 
 dollar, of course, varies with the course of exchange be- 
 tween the Provinces and the United States, which is prin- 
 cipally ruled by that between New- York and London. 
 In general, its value is about 5s. Id. currency, or 4s. 2d. 
 sterling. 
 
 The shilling currency is subdivided into twenty-four 
 copper coins, called coppers. Coinsof this metal, of Co- 
 lonial, British and American origin, and of very various 
 denominations, are common, and each is pretty generally 
 taken as the equivalent of a copper, without much refer- 
 ence to its intrinsic value. The English Penny, Half- 
 penny, and Farthing, of not less than five-sixths of the 
 weight of currency, is a legal tender to the amount of 
 12d. 
 
 The following coins are also usually taken at the rates 
 
 specified: 
 
 French crown, 5s. 6d. 
 
 " half crown, 2s. fid. 
 
 Pistorine, lOd . 
 
 Five franc piece, 4s. 8d. 
 
EASTERN TOUK. 
 
 Travellers desiring to visit the New- England States, 
 on leaving Canada, are conveyed from Montreal to La 
 Prairie by steamboat, and thence by railroad cars to St. 
 John's, where commodious and well regulated steamboats 
 again take them up for Burlington, Vermont. This is 
 one of those beautiful towns, which so often attract the 
 notice of a stranger, in travelling through the northern 
 and eastern states. For a description of Burlington, see 
 page 115. 
 
 A daily line of conveyance extends from Burlington to 
 Boston, passing through Montpelier, (the capitol of Ver- 
 mont,) Hanover, N. H,, and thence to Concord, by stage, 
 and from the latter place to Boston, by railroad. 
 
 If intending to visit the White Mountains of the 
 Granite State, the tourist can pursue a route which 
 diverges from Montpelier to Danville and Littleton ; and 
 thence across New Hampshire, through the notch of the 
 White Mountains, to Conway. From the latter place a 
 line of stages extends eastward to Portland, Maine, run- 
 ning three times a week. 
 
 Table of Distances from Bui'lington to Concord, N. H., 
 by Stage Route. 
 
 Montpelier, 38 miles. 
 
 Chelsea, 22 60 " 
 
 Honover, 26 86 '■' 
 
 Lebanon,.... 5 91 " 
 
 Springfield, 17 108 " 
 
 Concord, 33 141 '' 
 
 From Concord to Boston, by railroad route, 76 miles. 
 
 T 
 
278 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 The following description of Lake Champlain is copied 
 from Thompson's History of Vermont. 
 
 ■' Lake Chajaiplain lies between the States of Vermont 
 and New- York. It extends in a straight line from south 
 to north, 102 miles from Whitehall, to the 45th degree of 
 latitude, and thence about about 24 miles to St. Johns, in 
 Canada, affording an easy communication with that Pro* 
 vince and New- York. The length of this lake from south 
 to north, measured in a straight line from one extremity 
 to the other, and supposing it to terminate northerly at 
 St. Johns, is 126 miles. Its width varies from one-fourth 
 of a mile to 13 miles, and the mean width is about 4| 
 mUes. This would give an area of 567 square miles,, 
 two-thirds of which lie within the limits of Vermont, 
 Its depth is generally sufficient for the navigation of the 
 largest vessels. It received its present name from Samuel 
 Champlain, a French nobleman, who discovered it in 
 the spring of 1609, and who died at Quebec in 1635, and 
 was not drowned in its waters, as has often been said. 
 One of the names given to this lake by the aborigines, is 
 said to have been Caniaderi-Guarunte, signifying the- 
 mouth or door of the country. If so, it was very appro- 
 priate, as it forms the gateway between the country on 
 the St. Lawrence and that on the Hudson. The name of 
 this lake in the Abenaqui tongue Vvas Petawa-bouquey. 
 signifying alternate land and water, in allusion to the nu- 
 merous islands and projecting points of land along the 
 lake. Previous to the settlement of the country by Eu- 
 ropeans, this lake had long been the thoroughfare between 
 hostile and powerful Indian tribes, and its shores the 
 scene of many a mortal conflict. And after the settle- 
 ment, it continued the same in reference to the French 
 and English colofiies, and subsequently in reference to the 
 
EASTERJV TOUR. 279 
 
 English in Canada and the United States. In consequence 
 of this peculiarity of its location, the name of Lake 
 Champlain stands connected with some of the most in- 
 teresting events in the annals of our country ; and the 
 transactions associated with the names of Ticonderoga 
 and Crown Point,* and Plattsburgh, and many other 
 places, united with the variety and beauty of the scener)', 
 the neatness and accommodation of the steamboats, and 
 the unrivalled excellency of their commanders, render a 
 tour through this lake one of the most interesting and 
 agreeable to the enlightened traveller." 
 
 * Crown Point Fortress is now in ruins, and is opposite to the 
 south part of Addison, in Vermont. It was built by tiie French in 
 !73l, on a point of land between West Bay and the lake, and was 
 called Fort St. Frederick. In 1759, it was surrendered to the 
 British troops under Gen. Amherst, and was held by the British 
 till May 10, 1775, when ii Avas taken by Col. Seth Warner, on the 
 same day that Ticonderoga surrendered to Allen. It again fell 
 into the hands of the British in 1776, who kept possession of it 
 till after the capture of Burgoyne, in 1777. It is nearly a regular 
 pentagon, the longest curtain being ninety, and the shortest about 
 seventy-five yards in length. The ramparts are about twenty-five 
 feet in thickness, and riveted with masonry throughout. The 
 ditch is blasted out of the solid rock. There are two demi-lunes 
 and some small detached outworks. An arched passage led from 
 the interior of the works to the lake, and a well about ninety feet 
 in depth was sunk in one of the bastions. The fort erected by the 
 French in 1731, was a smaller work and nearer the water. The 
 present fort was commenced by the English in 1759, and accord- 
 ing to Dr. Dwight, (Travels, vol. ii, p. 444,) cost about two mil- 
 lions of pounds sterling. The whole peninsula being of solid 
 rock, covered with a thin layer of earth, the works cannot be as- 
 sailed by regular approaches ; and both in construction and posi- 
 tion, the fortress is among the strongest in North America. It 
 has been long dismantled, and is now quite dilapidated; but its 
 form and dimensions are still easily traced and measured. 
 
 Fort Ticonderoga is fully described at page 109. 
 
280 
 
 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 List of Steamboats Built on Lake Champlaik", 
 
 Bniltj 
 
 Name. 
 
 Tons 
 
 CoMMAXDERS. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 1S09 1 
 
 Vermont, 
 
 167 
 
 J. Winans, 
 
 Sunk Oct. 1815. 
 
 1815 I 
 
 Phcenix, 
 
 336 
 
 J. Sherman, 
 
 Burnt Sept 1819. 
 
 1817 ! 
 
 Champlain, • • 
 
 1-28 
 
 George Brush, •■ 
 
 Burnt in 1817. 
 
 1818 1 
 
 Congress, 
 
 209 
 
 K. W. Sherman,- 
 
 Condemned 1835. 
 
 1820 ; 
 
 2d Phoenix, -..■ 
 
 343 
 
 J. Sherman. 
 
 Condemned 1837. 
 
 1825 ' 
 
 Gen. Greene, •• 
 
 115 
 
 Han Lyon, 
 
 Conv. to sloop 1833 
 
 18i7 
 
 Franklin, 
 
 350 
 
 R. W. Sherman,- 
 
 Condemned 1838. 
 
 1827 
 
 Vv'^ashinston, •• 
 
 134 
 
 James Snow, - •• 
 
 Now running. 
 
 182S 
 
 McDonough, •• 
 
 133 
 
 Wm. Burton, 
 
 Lost 1S41. 
 
 1832 
 
 Winooski, 
 
 226 
 
 Dan Lyon, 
 
 Now running. 
 
 1832 
 
 Water-Witch,- 
 
 107 
 
 Duff Green, 
 
 Conv. to sch. 1833. 
 
 1837 
 
 Burlington, •• 
 
 405 
 
 R. W. Sherman,- 
 
 Now running. 
 
 1838 
 
 V/hiiehall, • • • • 
 
 460 
 
 Gideon Lathrop, 
 
 Now running. 
 
 1842 
 
 Saranac, 
 
 
 Wm. R. Philips. 
 
 Now running. 
 
 Note. — It is a fact v/ortliy of being recorded, that during 
 thirty-two years of steam navigation on Lake Champlain, 
 and the transportation of more than a million of passen- 
 gers, no life has been lost or person injured by the explo- 
 sion of steam. On the 5th of September, 1819, six per- 
 sons lost their lives by the burning of the steamboat 
 Phoenix, while on her passage a little to the north of 
 Burlington ; and in 1826, one person was killed by the 
 collision of the Second Phcenix and Congress, near Port 
 Kent. 
 
 MoNTPELiER, 38 miles east of Bmdington, is hand- 
 somely situated on a plain of moderate extent, at the 
 junction of the north and south branches of Winooski, 
 or Onion River ; and is surrounded by elevated hills, 
 some of which rise abruptly from the plain. The road 
 over the Green Mountains, which passes through this 
 place, encounters no high hills, and thus renders Montpe- 
 lier a great thoroughfare. This village being the capital 
 of Vermont, contains the state-house, which is an elegant 
 granite building; a court-house and jail,- 4 churches, 22 
 
EASTERR TOUR. 281 
 
 Stores, and several well kept public houses. The popu- 
 lation, is about 2,000, 
 
 The villages of Vermont, are for the most part de- 
 lightfully situated, the whole state being celebrated for 
 its salubrity, and for the industry and thrift of its peo- 
 ple. 
 
 In addition to the route from Burlington east, there is 
 another line of travel extending from Whitehall at the 
 head of Lake Champlain, to Rutland, Chester, Bellows 
 Falls. Keene, N. H., and thence to Boston j a total dis- 
 tance 172 miles. A railroad is now constructing from 
 Boston to Fitchburg, a distance of 54 miles, which is no 
 doubt destined to be continued to Whitehall. When 
 finished this will furnish a speedy conveyance from Bos- 
 ton to Montreal, via Lake Champlain, during the season 
 of navigation. 
 
 Since the completion of the line of railroads from Al- 
 bany to Boston, a distance of 200 miles, this latter route 
 has become the great thoroughfare for travellers visiting 
 the eastern st!fe,tes, the line being continued from Boston 
 to Portland, Maine; a farther distance eastward of 105 
 miles, and from Boston through Lowell, to Concord, K. 
 H., 76 miles north. 
 
 At Gbeenbush, opposite the city of Albany, com- 
 mences the Albany and West Stockbridge Railroad, 
 which extends to the Massachusetts state line, a distance 
 of 38 miles. This road passes through the towns of 
 Schodack, Kinderhook, Chatham, and Caanan, w^here 
 there are depots. 
 
 From Chatham-Four- Corners to the state line, and 
 parallel to the last named road, runs the Hudson and 
 Berkshire Railroad; but west of Chatham the latter 
 road diverges, in a southwest direction, to the city of 
 Hudson, distant from West Stockbridge 34 miles. 
 
282 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 Both the above roads run within a few miles of New 
 Lebanon Springs, and the Shaker Settlement in the same 
 town. During the summer months a stage runs from the 
 city of Albany, and the railroad to 
 
 New Lebanon Springs Village, delightfully situa- 
 ted near the Massuchusetts state line, and 25 miles east 
 of Albany. This place has long been a well known and 
 much frequented resort during the summer months. The 
 spring is remarkable for its size and beauty, being ten 
 feet in diameter, and discharging a volume of water suffi- 
 cient to propel several mills in the vicinity. It is in ct-a- 
 siderable repute for its medicinal qualities, particularly 
 in rheumatic and scrofulous complaints, and in cutaneous 
 eruptions. Here are 5 hotels and boarding houses, 1 
 Raptist church, 4 stores, 2 woollen factories, and some 
 20 or 25 dwellings. 
 
 New Lebanon Shaker Settlement, is situated two 
 miles south of the Springs. This settlement contains 
 about 600 inhabitants, 1 church, and 10 large dwelling 
 houses occupied in common by the United Society of Be- 
 lievers, as they call themselves. Formerly the religious 
 services on the Sabbath attracted many visiters ; but of 
 late they have discontinued public service, for the alleged 
 reason that they were disturbed in their devotions, by 
 the improper conduct of strangers visiting them from idle 
 curiosity. -~— ^ 
 
 Two miles west of the State Line, the Albany and West 
 Stockbridge Railroad passes through a tunnel 600 feet 
 in length — excavated through solid rock. 
 
 At the State Line, 38 miles from Albany, and 162 
 miles from Boston, diverges the Housatonic Railroad to 
 West Stockbridge, 2| miles, and extending thence to 
 Bridgeport, Conn., down the valley of Housatonic — a total 
 distance of 100 miles. 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 283 
 
 PiTTSFELD, 49 miles from Albany, and 151 miles from 
 Boston, by railroad, is a thriving place, -vl-here centres 
 the main business of this part of Berkshire county, which 
 has long been held ia esteem for its agricultural and 
 manufacturing enterprise and advancement. The east 
 and west branches of the Housatonic river here unite, 
 affording an immense amount of hydraulic power, dn 
 which are situated several extensive woollen and cotton 
 factories, and a manufactory of muskets, which supplies 
 annually a large number, exclusively to the United States 
 Government. 
 
 The village contains about 2,500 inhabitants, a town 
 hall, 5 churches of different denominations, and the 
 Berkshire Medical Institution, besides several flourishing 
 Seminaries of learning for the respective sexes. 
 
 Dalton, 5 miles from Pittsfieid, is situated on the east 
 branch of the Housatonic river, where there are several 
 paper-mills and other extensive manufactories. 
 
 Hinsdale^ 3 miles further east, is situated in an ele- 
 vated region well adapted to grazing'. 
 
 Washington, 5 miles from Hinsdale, is another eleva- 
 ted township, in which the east branch of the Housato- 
 nic, and the Westfield rivers both take their rise, and flow 
 in opposite directions. At, this point the track of the 
 Western Railroad, is^elevated 1,430 feet above the wa- 
 ters of the Hudson river, which is reduced to about 900 
 feet at the State Line, 24 miles west of the summit. 
 
 Becket is the next mountain town, 3 miles east of 
 Washington. Here the head branch of the Westfield 
 river, a fine stream which joins the Connecticut opposite 
 to Springfield, takes its rise in the midst of strikingly 
 wild and varied scenery, made up of lofty and richly 
 wooded hills, dark glens, bold precipices, dashing tor- 
 rents and cascades, deep-cut ravines now spanned high 
 
284 EASTERN TOUK. 
 
 up their steep sides by railroad bridges, and now filled {if 
 the required grade by huge embankments upheld by 
 enormous walls of massive masonryj with here and there 
 a secluded mountain farm spreading its green pastures to 
 the sun, and kept forever fresh by perennial springs and 
 rivulets of the purest water, all presented in such quick 
 tfttccession as the railroad train sweeps through the wind- 
 ing gorges of the mountains, that the feeling excited is 
 one of strange and vivid pleasure, combining the enjoy- 
 ment of nature in some of its most picture,sque and ro- 
 mantic forms, with a sense of grateful exultation at the 
 palpable triumph of science and art over obstacles to hu- 
 man intercourse and social progress^ which have hereto- 
 fore been classed among the most formidable. 
 
 Chester Factory, 9 miles further, is a manufactur- 
 ing settlement on Westfield river. 
 
 Chester Village, 7 miles further east, is still eleva- 
 ted and surrounded by a picturesque region, abounding 
 ^. v/ith streams celebrated for their fine trout. 
 /fi /A'tI^/ Westfield, 1 1 miles further, is a place of singular beau- 
 
 '/ ty. situated on the river of the same name. It lies in a 
 
 / 
 ' valley or basin, of about 4 miles in breadth, surrounded 
 
 by high hills, and is supposed to have been once the bed 
 
 of a lake. The Hampshire and Hamden Canal, passes 
 
 through this town, in its course from Northampton to New 
 
 Haven, 
 
 West Springfield, 8 miles further, is handsomely 
 situated on both sides of Weslfield river, at its confluence 
 with the Connecticut, which is spanned by a fine bridge 
 extending to Springfield on the opposite shore. The beau- 
 tiful valley of the Connecticut, is here seen, during the 
 summer months in all its loveliness. 
 
 Springfield, 102 miles east of Albany, and 98 miles 
 west of Boston, by railroad route, is most delightfully 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 285 
 
 Situated on the east bank of the Connecticut. The depot 
 is on the north side of the village, which has several wel^ 
 kept public houses, this being the principal stopping place 
 on the route, east and west. The main street runs north 
 and south, parallel with the river, at the distance from it of 
 a quarter of a mile, and two or three miles in length . The 
 houses are mostly well built, and many of them are ele- 
 gant, being surrounded in several instances by highly 
 cultivated grounds. 
 
 This is a populous town, containing in 1840, 10,958 in- 
 habitants. The village has a court-house and jail, 8 church- 
 es, 2 banks, and a large number of stores. The United 
 States Government has here one of the most extensive 
 arsenals of construction in the country. This establish- 
 ment, which is well worthy of a visit, is pleasantly situa- 
 ted on elevated ground, half a mile east of the village. 
 The buildings are arranged on a large square, and con- 
 sist of one brick edifice 240 feet by 32, and two stories 
 high, occupied by lock-filers, stockers and finishers ; a 
 brick forging-shop, 150 feet by 32; a brick building 60 
 feet by 32, and 2 stories high, the second story forming a 
 spacious hall devoted to religious worship; a brick building 
 100 feet by 40; and 2 stories high, used as a depository 
 of fire arms, said to contain 90,000 muskets in complete 
 order, the whole being arranged in the most beautiful 
 and regular manner. There are also other stores and 
 shops, and a number of convenient residences for the 
 oUcers connected with the establishment. 
 
 The principal hotels in Springfield, are the American 
 House, Main-street, the Massasoit House, Main- street, 
 both near the railroad depot; Hamden House, Court 
 Square, and the United States Hotel, Main, corner State- 
 street. 
 
 From Springfield there is a line of conveyance up and 
 
286 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 down the valley of the Connecticut. A railroad is now 
 constructing to Hartford, 25 miles south, where it will 
 connect with the railroad extending to New Haven, a 
 total distance of 63 miles. This will furnish another de*^ 
 i\.4l sirable route between Boston and New- York, passing 
 through an interesting and populous region. 
 
 Northampton, on t|je west bank of the Connecticut, 
 17 miles north of Springfield, is one of the oldest and 
 most beautiful towns in Massachusetts. It was incorpo- 
 raied in 1654, and in 1840, contained 3,750 inhabitants. 
 The village is handsomely built, containing many elegant 
 houses, a court-house and jail, 5 churches, a bank, and 
 an insurance company, 30 stores, and several public 
 houses. This place is on the old stage road between 
 Albany and Boston. Here commences the Farmington 
 Canal, which extends to New-Haven, on Long Island 
 Sound, a distance of 87 miles, 
 
 Mount Tom, in the town of Northampton, and Mount 
 HoLYOKE on the opposite side of the river, are lofty sum- 
 mits, often visited by tourists for their commanding pros- 
 pects. The latter is elevated 1,070 feet above the level 
 of the river, affording an extensive prospect of the beau- 
 tiful valley of the Connecticut and a wide range of 
 country, amply compensating the labor and difficulty of 
 the ascent. Two buildings have been erected on its sum- 
 rait for the purpose of accommodating visiters with re- 
 freshments. 
 
 Hadley, 2 miles east of Northampton, and on the op- 
 posite side of the river, is also an ancient settlement. It 
 was the head-quarters of the army employed for the de- 
 fence of this section of country, in the old Indian war i« 
 1675-6, with the great Sachem, Philip. 
 The other villages of note on the Connecticut river 
 
EASTERN TOUll. 287 
 
 above Northampton, are Greenfield, 20 miles north ; 
 Brattleboro, and Bellows-Falls, Vermont. 
 
 The railroad route eastward from Springfield, passes 
 through a succession of small villages, when you ar- 
 rive at 
 
 Worcester, 54 miles distant. This is a large and im- 
 portant place, containing many facilities for trade and in- 
 tercourse in various directions. In addition to the Boston 
 and Worcester Railroad, extending to Boston, 44 miles 
 east, the Norwich and Worcester Railroad, here diverges 
 south to Allen's Point, 66 miles,- and the Blackstone 
 Canal connects it with Providence, 45 miles distant in a 
 southeast direction. 
 
 The village, one of the finest in New-England, con- 
 tains a court-house and jail, 8 churches, and the Massa- 
 chusetts Lunatic Asylum, with its spacious and commo- 
 dious edifices. This establishment was founded in ]832, 
 and by its admirable management and condition does honor 
 to the state. Although many of the worst cases of in- 
 sanity are found here, yet experience has proved that 
 there are very few cases of derangement, which may not 
 be ameliorated by the kindly influence of humane treat- 
 ment addressed to the moral and social principles of o'nr 
 nature. 
 
 The principal hotels in Worcester, are the American 
 Temperance Hotel; the United States Hotel, and the 
 Worcester House. 
 
 The cars run over the road between Worcester and 
 Boston, in about two hours, passing through several plea- 
 sant villages. 
 
 BOSTON, the seat of government in Massachusetts and 
 and great commercial and social centre of New-England, 
 stands on a peninsula in the westernmost and deepest in- 
 land curve of Massachusetts Bay. The peninsula, origi- 
 
EASTERN TOtJH. 
 
 nally of very uneven surface, was principally marked by 
 three bold hills called Beacon Hill, Copp's Hill, and Fort 
 Hill ; and its greatest length, measuring from the Rox- 
 bury line where it connects, on the south, with the main- 
 land, across ''The Neck" northerly to the head-land 
 formed by Fort Hill, opposite to Charlestown, is about :3 
 miles, and its greatest breadth, from Charles River bay, 
 behind, or on the west side, to the harbor in front, on the 
 east side, is about 1 mile. Taking the center of the town, 
 at or near Cornhill and the Old State House, for the point 
 of observation, it is in N. Lat. 42 deg., 21 min., 23 secj 
 in E. Lon. from the meridian of Washington, 5 deg., 58 
 min., and in W. Lon. from Greenwich, Eng, 71 deg., 4 
 min., 9 sec. 
 
 Boston was founded in August, 1630, ten years, lacking 
 about four months, after the first landing of the Pilgrims 
 at Plymouth in December, 1620. During the colonial 
 period the growth of the town, as of the country gene- 
 rally, was slow. Even as late as 1790, when the first 
 census was taken under the present Government of the 
 United States, then newly established, the population of 
 Boston was only 18,038. In 1800, it had risen to24,937; 
 in 1810, to 33,250j and in 1820, to 43,298; showing a rafe 
 of increase, in each successive period, of about 33g per 
 cent. In 1830, however, the number had advanced to 
 61,391; and in 1840, to 93,383; showing a 7-a^e of increase, 
 not far from 50 per cent in each of these two periods. 
 This acceleration in the ratio of increase, from about one 
 third to one half, is somewhat remarkable, not so much, 
 perhaps, for its amount, as from its coincidence with that 
 change in the policy of our national government which 
 was adopted for the purpose of introducing and promot- 
 ing domestic manufactures, through the agency of dis- 
 criminating and protecting duties on imports. \Up to the 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 289 
 
 period referred to, the capital and the enterprise of Boston 
 had been chiefly employed in commerce and its dependent 
 occupations ; and though the change in question was not 
 strenuously opposed b)'^ the great majority of the com- 
 mercial classes of thafccity, yet when it was once adopt- 
 ed, no community in the country embarked in manufac- 
 tures more promptly and efficiently; and the result may, 
 at least, be seen in the striking coincidence between the 
 date of that change which enlarged the field of enterprise 
 for the intelligence, capital, labor, and skill of that com- 
 munity, and the commencement of a greatly accelerated 
 rale of increase in its population and wealth. 
 
 In this progress of population the original limits of the 
 peninsula have been found much too narrow for the grow- 
 ing numbers, and the city now consists of three distinct 
 parts, namely, Boston of the peninsula — South-Boston, 
 built along the westerly base and slopes of Dorchester 
 Heights, on ground formerly belonging to the town of 
 Dorchester, but annexed to peninsular Boston in 1804 — 
 and East-Boston, built on an island in the harbor, former* 
 ly called Noodle's-Island, lying off against the northerly 
 portion of the peninsula and separated from Charlestown 
 and the main-land on that side, by the waters of the Mys- 
 tic river as they mingle with the harbor. It is connected 
 with the main land at Chelsea by a bridge 600 feet long, 
 and with the peninsular city by steam ferry boats which 
 start from each side every five minutes. East Boston has 
 grown up wholly since 1833. It is the station of the 
 Liverpool, or Cunard line of Steam Packets. 
 
 The peninsular situation of Boston has produced the 
 necessity of an unusual number of bridges to connect the 
 city with the surrounding country. These are six in 
 number and of great length; and though they are aU of 
 wood, and without any pretensions to architectural beau- 
 
290 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 ty, yet their great extent, number, and position, give them, 
 an imposing aspect, while their great utility and the train 
 of ideas associated therewith, render them objects of 
 lively interest. Charles River Bridge, 1,503 feet long, 
 and. Warren Bridge, 1,390 feet, ^ad to Charlestown ; 
 West-Boston Bridge, 2,758 feet with a causeway, in im- 
 mediate continuation. 3.432 feet, leads to Cambridge and 
 the Harvard University; Canal Bridge, 2,796 feet, leads 
 to East- Cambridge, and about mid-way extends an arm to 
 State-Prison Point within the limi ts of Charlestown ; 
 South-Boston Bridge, 1,550 feet, and Free Bridge, 1,828 
 feet, both lead to South-Boston ; and besides all these 
 there is a bridge-like structure, a noble work vastly more 
 extensive and costly than either of the bridges, and called 
 Western Avenue, a mile and a half long, extending from 
 the westerly side of the city across Charles River bay to 
 Brookline, with a branch leading to Roxbury, the whole 
 of which was designed for a tide-dam, as well as a road, 
 and which furnishes a vast amount ot hydraulic power. 
 
 The streets of Boston, especially in the older quarters 
 of the city, are rather irregular and narrow; but no city 
 in the Union is more substantially built, or contains a 
 greater proportion of spacious and costly private man- 
 sions; and no cit}' on the globe can boast of as high a 
 degree of cleanliness. In this particular, so important 
 to the health, comfort, and pleasantness of a large town, 
 the streets, public areas, and private courts and yards of 
 Boston are truly admirable and a model for all other 
 cities : and the simple means by which this desirable con- 
 dition of things is secured, is an ordinance which forbids 
 the inhabitants to throw offal, dirt, fragments, or filth of 
 any sort, vegetable or animal, upon the ground in the 
 streets, or in private inclosures, but requires all these 
 things to be put into casks, or vessels of some kind, and 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 291 
 
 then are regularly removed by the scavengers. Thus, the 
 frequent handling of this noisome rubbish, which is the 
 obvious and unavoidable consequence of permitting them 
 to be cast upon the ground at all, is saved, and the removal 
 of them is rendered complete and certain. These simple 
 regulations being enforced, the city is kept clean, sweet, 
 and wholesome ; and that, too, with far less expense of 
 time, labor, and money, than is possible in any other 
 way. This management saves to Boston, every year, 
 many thousands of dollars in her annual expenditures ; 
 and its good sense and great economy are so palpable as 
 to make it really surprising that it is not the settled sys- 
 tem of every populous town. 
 
 Boston harbor, commodious,, deep, easy of access, and 
 yet easily defended, is one of the best in the world. The 
 approach to the inner harbor, immediately in front of the 
 city, is, for a short distance and immediately under the 
 batteries of Fort Independence, by a channel so narrow 
 that two large ships could scarcely pass abreast, while 
 within, it spreads into a noble haven spacious enough for 
 500 ships of any size to ride securely. 
 
 Boston is distinguished for the extent and convenience 
 of its wharves, as well as its bridges. Of these, Long 
 Wharf, the oldest and longest; projects from the foot of 
 State-street into the harbor 1650 feet. The other two of 
 most importance are Indian Wharf and Central Wharf, 
 each about 1,240 feet long, and remarkable, especially 
 the latter, for the ample dimensions, the convenience, and 
 the massive strength of their warehouses. 
 
 Of the public edifices the most conspicuous is the State 
 House. It stands on Beacon Hill, the highest ground on 
 the peninsula and 110 feet above tide water. It was 
 erected in 1798, of brick, with a front of 173 feet facing 
 to the east. It is surmounted by a fine dome, 52 feet in 
 
292 EASTERN TOX311. 
 
 diameter, copied from that of St. Paul's Cathedral in 
 'Jbondon, but on a reduced scale to correspond with the 
 proportions of the building. From the dome a cupola 
 rises to the height of 230 feet above tide-water, affording 
 a prospect of surpassing beauty, and by its vast extent 
 invested wi th the most impressive grandeur. Indeed, 
 considering the component parts of this view — the wide 
 circuit of horizon which it commands — the almost endless 
 variety of land and water — the harbor and bay studded with 
 islands and spreading away to the far ocean— the wide 
 sweep of country with its perpetually varying outline, its 
 numerous villages, its embellished rural seats, its cultivated 
 fields, its richly wooded hills, its grassy vales and the 
 shining streams that wind through them — the roads cross- 
 ing in all directions and alive with the busy population; 
 and immediately beneath, the compact and crowded city 
 with its bridges, its masses of architecture, its towers, 
 and spires, and groves of masts, and the incessant move- 
 ment on land and water — this vast variety of objects se- 
 parately beautiful and yet presenting a thousand con» 
 trasts, as well as harmonies, to heighten the effect of 
 each and augment the glory of all ; and to crown the 
 whole, the character of the community occupying the 
 scene ; the associated ideas of law and order, of civil and 
 religious freedom, and social security and progress, pro- 
 claimed by every object the eye rests on, and the histori- 
 cal recollections of the devoted patriotism, the invincible 
 courage, and the civil wisdom, which prepared this pros- 
 pect and opened the sources of its abounding beauty and 
 magnificence — all these things render the prospect from 
 the cupola of the State House in Boston the noblest on 
 earth. 
 
 Another of th« public edifices here, is the famous 
 Faneuil Hall, so named in honor of its founder. It is of 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 293 
 
 brick, and is 100 feet long, 80 feet wide, and 3 stories 
 high. The great hall within, is on the second floor, and 
 is 76 feet square, with deep galleries on three sides, the 
 other side being furnished with a desk and seats like a 
 judicial bench to accommodate the presiding officers of 
 public meetings, and the wail above it is adorned with 
 portraits of Faneuil, Washington, Hancock, and other 
 worthies. 
 
 Faneuil Hall Market is a noble structure, which with 
 other valuable improvements, owes its origin to Josiah 
 Quincy, (now, and for many years past, President of Har- 
 vard University,) during his Mayoralty. It is built of 
 hewn granite, and is 536 feet long, 50 feet wide, and 2 
 stories high, the most superb market house in the Union. 
 
 The Massachusetts Hospital is also a fine granite struc- 
 ture, 168 feet by 54 feet, standing in an area of four acres, 
 on the shore of Charles river, on the westerly side of 
 4he city. 
 
 The Custom House, built by the United States, near 
 the head of Central Wharf, is a costly edifice of granite, 
 ■and in the Grecian style. The Houses of Industry, Cor- 
 rection, and Reformation are in South-Boston. The 
 church edifices are very numerous and several of them 
 ^re very stately and imposing, Boston is abundantly sup- 
 plied with excellent hotels and public boarding-houses, 
 among which the most spacious are the Tremont House 
 and the United States Hotel. 
 
 Of the public grounds in Boston the Common is far the 
 largest and most beautiful. It is on the southwesterly 
 side of the city, looking across Charles River Bay to 
 Brookline and Roxbury. It contains about 50 acres, is 
 laid out with gravel walks and abounds with trees. It is 
 an exceedingly beautiful place, and adds very much to the 
 pleasantness of a permanent residence in Boston. 
 
 U 
 
294 EASTERX TOUR. 
 
 In commerce and navigation Boston ranks as the second 
 city in the Union, standing next to New- York, and pos- 
 sessing a tonnage, which, taking both registered and en- 
 rolled vessels, amounted in 1842, to 193,502 tons; and in 
 1843, to 201,323 tons. But this is not all. An able and 
 authentic article on the commerce of Boston, in the Mer- 
 chant's Magazine, (N. Y.,) for May, 1844, shows that a 
 heavy amount of the commerce of New- York is carried 
 on in Boston vessels, and especially of the East India 
 trade. 
 
 The great line of steam packets, called the Cunard 
 Line, runs between Boston and Liverpool, touching both 
 ways at Halifax. Samuel Cunard of Liverpool, was the 
 chief actor in establishing this line.. The steamers 
 which compose it, have performed their passages, on an 
 average of all, in 12^ days of running time each way; thus 
 shortening the average tiftie of the sailing packets nearly 
 one-half; or, in other words, annihilating, for the purpose 
 of practical intercourse, about half of the previous distance 
 between America and Europe. 
 
 Lines of Packets run regularly also, from Boston to all 
 the other principal parts of the Union. The Middlesex 
 Canal, the oldest in the United States, furnishes a con" 
 venient boat navigation to the Merrimack, at Concord, N. 
 H.; and by various railroads Boston now" enjoys a speedy 
 communication by land, with the chief trading towns of 
 New-England, and above all with Albany, and througb 
 the canals and railroads of New- York, with the great 
 lakes and the far west. 
 
 The number of banks in Boston in 1833, was 24, hav- 
 ing an aggregate capital of about $17,000,000; and 28 in- 
 surance companies, wuth an aggregate capital of about 
 $7,000,000. 
 
 The total amount of capital employed in manufactures 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 295 
 
 of various kinds in Boston, is stated at a little under three 
 millions: but a far larger amount of Boston capital is in- 
 vested in cotton and woollen manufactures in Lowell, 
 Waltham, and other places. The capital employed in Bos- 
 ton, in foreign trade, is stated at about $12,000,000. 
 
 Boston has always been justly distinguished for the 
 excellence and the number of its schools. Besides the nu- 
 merous private seminaries of various kinds, there are, of 
 the public, or free schools, a Latin grammar schoolj a 
 high school, in which mathematics and the higher branch- 
 es of a sound English education are efficiently taught; 10 
 grammar and writing schools ,• 75 primary schools; and 
 1 African school. These are all sustained by the public, 
 throughout the year, at an annual cost of $200,000. 
 
 The medical school is a branch of Harvard Uni\*ersity. 
 but the professors reside in Boston, where the school, in 
 point of fact, is located. It was established in 1782 ; it has 
 six professors, a library of more than 5,000 volumes, is 
 well attended, and has a high reputation. Other valuable 
 institutions are the Athenoeuni, with one of the best li- 
 braries in the country, contaning about 30,000 volumes. 
 
 Principal Hotels in Boston. 
 
 Albion Hotel, Tremont, cor. Beacon-street j American 
 House. 42 Havover- street ; Bromfield House, Bromfield- 
 street; City Hotel, Elm-street; City Tavern, Brattle- 
 street; Commercial Coffee House, Milk, cor. Liberty-st.: 
 Elm-Street Hotel, 9 Elm-street ; Exchange Coflee House, 
 Devonshire-street ; Hanover House, 50 Hanover-street ; 
 Marlborough Hotel, 229 Washington-street ; Maverick 
 House, East-Boston; Merchant's Exchange Hotel, State- 
 street ; Merrimack House, Friend, cor. Merrimack- street ; 
 New-England House, Clinton-street ; Pavilion, 41 Tre- 
 mont-street ; Tremont House, Tremont-street ; United 
 States Hotel, cor. Lincoln, Beach and Kingston- streets. 
 
29^ EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 THE VICINITY OF BOSTON. 
 
 No place in the Union, probably, exceeds Boston, for 
 the beauty and variety of the scenery of the surrounding 
 country. Dorchester, Iloxbury, Brookline, Brighton, 
 Cambridge, Charlestown and Chelsea, are among the 
 points of attraction which cluster around the capital of 
 New-England. Seaward, the beautiful bay expands on 
 the east, embosoming several small islands, some of 
 which are fortified, and serve as breakwaters to the im- 
 portant harbor of Boston. 
 
 Dorchester, first settled as early as 1630, is situated 
 abou 44miles south of Boston. It is embellished with many 
 fine country residences, which with the substantial farm- 
 houses and well cultivated farms, give abundant evidence 
 of prosperity and comfort. The population of the town 
 in 1840, was 4,875. The peninsula, consisting of Dor- 
 chester Neck and Dorchester Heights, borders on Boston 
 harbor, and the Heights are included within the corpo- 
 rate limits of the city, und^r the name of South Boston. 
 In the night of March 4th, 1776, the army under Gen. 
 Washington, threw up works on Dorchester Heights, 
 which commanded the harbor, and compelled the British 
 to evacuate Boston. 
 
 RoxBURY, a point or two west of south from Boston, 
 and through which passes the Boston and Providence 
 Railroad, is a delightful place of residence. It is joined 
 to the city by a neck of land, which constitutes a broad 
 avenue, and may be regarded as a continuation of Wash- 
 ington-street, Boston. The village at the centre of the 
 town, contains 5 churches, 2 banks, and many beautiful 
 dwelling houses. 
 
 QuiNCY, 10 miles from Boston in a southerly direction, 
 is distinguished for having furnished two Presidents of 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 297 
 
 the United Stales. About half a mile northwest of the 
 village is the mansion of the late John Adams, the im- 
 mediate successor of Washington as President of the 
 United States. His remains and those of his wife repose 
 beneath the new church at Quincy. A handsome monu- 
 ment has been here erected to their memory, by their 
 son, John Quincy Adams, the sixth president of the 
 United States. 
 
 In the southwest part of this town are inexhaustible 
 beds of granite, for the transportion of which, a rail- 
 road runs from the quary to tide water, 3 miles in length. 
 This was the first railroad made in the country. 
 
 Brookline, 4 miles southwest of Boston, like all the 
 towns in the vicinity, is in a high state of cultivation, and 
 furnishes many elegant country seats for citizens tran- 
 sacting business in the city. 
 
 Brighton, 5 miles west of the city, through which 
 passes the Boston and Worcester Railroad, was former- 
 ly a part of Cambridge, and lies between that place and 
 Brookline. Here is annually held the famous Cattle 
 Fair and Mart, which was commenced during the revolu- 
 tionary war, and has been increasing in importance ever 
 since. Most of the cattle for the supply of the Boston 
 market are brought in droves to this place. 
 
 Cambridge, 3 miles northwest of Boston, is one of 
 the ancient towns of New-England, having been first 
 settled in 1631, under the name of Newtown. It is the 
 seat of Harvard University, formerly called Harvard 
 College, the oldest institution of the kind in the Union, 
 having been founded in 1638, which was less than 20 
 years after the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth. 
 This institution is more richly endowed than any other 
 college in the United States. It has a president and 27 
 professors and other instructors, and usually numbers 
 
298 KASTEIilV TOLR. 
 
 irom 4 to 500 students. The annual commencement is 
 on the 4th Wednesday in August. 
 
 In the town of Cambridge are three handsome villages, 
 known as Old Cambridge, Cambridge-Port, and Kast 
 Cambridge,- a court-house and jailj a state arsenal: 
 5 churches, and several select schools. The population in 
 1840, was 8,409. 
 
 Mount Auburn, 5 miles from Boston, is situated in 
 the town of Cambridge. Every traveller of taste should 
 visit this cemetery. It is the Ptre la Chaise of this coun- 
 try, and is located in one of the most delightful spots ever 
 selected for the repose of the dead. The grounds are very 
 extensive, comprising hill and dale, covered with trees 
 and shrubbery of almost ever j^ kind. Theie are numerous 
 avenues for carriages and paths for pedestrians, designa- 
 ted by botanical names. The first interment was made 
 in 1831 5 since then it has gradually been filling up, and 
 ornamented by art, until it now presents a sacred and ro- 
 mantic appearance. 
 
 Charlestown, 1 mile north of Boston, is situated on 
 a peninsula lying between Charles and Mystic rivers, and 
 connected with Boston by Warren and Charles river 
 bridges. The streets, though not laid out with great 
 regularity, are many of them wide and ornamented with 
 trees. The public buildings are a State Prison, conduct- 
 ed on the most improved model ; the Massachusetts In- 
 sane Hospital, called from a distinguished benefactor, 
 the McLean Asylum ; an Alms-House ; town house, and 
 9 churches. The United States Navy Yard at this place 
 covers 60 acres of ground, and is an important naval de- 
 pH. Here is a Dry Dock, built of hewn granite, of 
 sufficient magnitude to take in the largest ships of war ; 
 a marine hospital, an arsenal, a powder magazine, a 
 pacious warehouse, and a house for the superintendent. 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 299 
 
 ail of brick, and two immense wooden buildings, under 
 which the largest ships are constructed. 
 
 Breed's Hill, commonly called Bunker Hill, imme- 
 diately in the rear of the town, is the spot where a 
 bloody battle was fought at the commencement of the 
 revolutionary struggle, June 17, 1775, in which the 
 Americans lost in killed and wounded 449, and the British. 
 1,055. Here fell the lamented Warren, the volunteer 
 martyr in the first great battle that American principles 
 waged against British tyranny. To commemorate this 
 important event, a granite obelisk has been erected on 
 the eminence, overlooking the Navy Yard and the harbor 
 of Boston. It is 30 feet square at the base, 220 feet 
 high,* and 15 feet square at the top, and is ascended 
 within by a winding stair- case. Its estimated cost is 
 about $100,000. 
 
 Battle of Bunker Hill. 
 
 ^' The space allotted to this article will not permit a 
 full detail of the thrilling events of the terrible conflict 
 that ensued. The morning, on both sides, was spent in 
 preparation ; the afternoon in battle and carnage. The 
 British distinctly saw the Provincials gathering their 
 ■strength as if for a mighty effort ,• the Americans heard 
 as distinctly the rattling of artillery carriages in Boston, 
 and saw the various movements of the British troops in- 
 dicating an attack. ' Now,' said Prescott, ' we shall 
 
 * The Bunker Hill Monumant, although 220 feet high, is 32(' 
 Teet below the level of the cross on St. Peter's Church at Rome ; 
 140 lower than the cross on St. Paul's in London^ and 135 less 
 than the Pantheon in Paris. It is IS feet higher ttian the Monu- 
 )neat in Londouj SO feet higher than the column of the Place Ven- 
 dome at Paris; 35 feet higher than the Washington Monument at 
 flaltimore; 100 feet higher than Pompey's Pillar at A'exandria- 
 and 80 feet higher than Trajan's Pillar at Pvome. 
 
300 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 have a fight ; we shall beat them too !' The fight, in 
 due time, came on — the British are driven to their 
 boats — they rally again with desperate courage — again 
 they are forced to retreat. Better counsels governed them, 
 on the third trial. The officers and men no longer de- 
 spised their enemy. A dear-bought victory crowned their 
 last effort. Such is the outline of this famed battle. To 
 fill it up with a detail of all the events that took place 
 would require a volume. We shall glance at one or two 
 scenes. About three o'clock in the afternoon the prepa- 
 rations for defence and attack were well nigh completed. 
 The eight rods square redoubt, the breastwork and the 
 rail fences constituted all the military works of the Pa' 
 triots. Most of the original detachment, under Col. 
 Prescott, were at the redoubt and breastwork. The 
 New-Hampshire and Connecticut troops, under Stark, 
 Reed and Knowlton, were at the rail fence. General 
 Putnam on horseback, was animating the men wherever 
 he deemed his presence required. General Pomeroy, 
 glowing with military ardor, was at the rail fence. 
 Gen. War.^en, to learn the art of war under a veteran, 
 was in the redoubt. As the veteran officers — volunteers 
 for this day — appeared along the lines, they were receiv- 
 ed with enthusiastic shouts by the men. There was no 
 glittering array of polished armor — no splendid proces- 
 sion of gorgeous uniforms. The troops were in homely 
 apparel, and with but little pretension to military disci- 
 pline. But they were full of enthusiasm, firm and de- 
 termined. 
 
 ''At a little distance, in full view, the long lines of 
 British troops were preparing for the battle. Their scar- 
 let dresses, the glow of the sun upon their burnished 
 arms and brazen artillery, the precision of their move- 
 ments — all made up a brilliant and imposing spectacle. 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 3ftl 
 
 A fleet of armed vessels and floating batteries lay in the 
 baj', from which, and from the forts in Boston, a eon- 
 tinned cannonade was kept up. The scene of action wa& 
 the middle of an amphitheatre of hills, second to none in 
 the world for the beauty of its position and magnificent 
 scenery. On these hills — on every house and steeple of 
 the metropolis, the population of the country had been 
 collecting, drawn to the spot by the sound of the cannon. 
 The season was an uncommonly fine one^ and the spring 
 had clothed the things of earth in their most beautiful 
 array. The day was one of unusual serenity ; not a 
 cloud obscured the horizon, hardly a wave ruffled the 
 waters ; nature lay in silence and repose, reflecting from 
 the harbor below, or the river near, the islands and ships 
 that adorned their surface. ' Slendid phenomena! how- 
 soon CO be defiled by stains of dust and blood! Fearful^ 
 omnious silence ! how soon to be broken by shouts of rage 
 and groans of agony ! ' 
 
 *' An hour passed on. How changed the scene ! The 
 cool provincials, a second time, are shouting the proud 
 huzza of victory ; the brave troops of Howe a second 
 time are retreating under the murderous fire of the Ameri- 
 cans — a fire which, though it mowed down whole ranks 
 together, they received with astonishing fortitude. Then, 
 too, Charlestown was on fire j the conflagration was 
 spreading from house to house, from street to street,, and 
 ascending the lofty spire of the church steeple in a pyramid 
 tjf flame high over the rest in awful sublimity. Then 
 the noise of crackling fires and crashing edifices was 
 blended with the shouts, the shrieks, the groans that 
 make up the frightful clang of the battle field. The 
 wreaths of smoke rolled over the American lines to the 
 north, leaving to the determined warriors a full view of 
 their flying enemy — and there they stood — that gallant 
 
SO^ EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 band — filled with the heroism that ever supports mea 
 when fighting for their wives, their children and their 
 country. 
 
 " Such is the nature of the scenes of the first and most 
 important battle of the Revolution. It was the first time 
 that American valor encountered British valor in mortal 
 strife, it opened the^eyes of the defenders of the minis- 
 try to the desperate struggle before them. Its influence, 
 it might be shewn, was felt throughout the war that en- 
 sued. The victory the British gained was a dear bought 
 one I it cut down a large part of their army. On the side 
 of the Americans the loss was severe, but nothing com- 
 pared to that of the British. The valor of Prescott, the 
 self-sacrificiug bravery of V."arren, the undaunted courage 
 of Putnam — the names of Pomeroy, Stark, Knowlton, 
 McCleary — all are knoAvn to every American. Their 
 fame is part of the inheritance of the past. Let their 
 memory be ever held sacred. And let the name of Bun- 
 ker Hill ever be remembered as long as freemen thrill 
 to the sound of freemen's deeds." 
 
 Chelsea, 3 miles northeast of Boston, is connected 
 with Charlestown by a bridge at the mouth of the Mystic 
 river. Here are located several flourishing manufactur- 
 ing establishments. A fine view of Boston, from this 
 point, embellishes this work. 
 
 East Boston, although separated from the peninsula 
 on which the State House stands, is a part of Boston, and 
 is described in connection with the city. 
 
 Boston Hahbor, lying in the west of Massachusetts 
 Bay, presents many points of attraction, although not 
 equal to the Bay of New- York in beauty oi outline, the 
 islands presenting a naked appearance from being wash- 
 ed by the tide and waves dashing against their shores. 
 Fort Independence is situated on an island at the outlet 
 of Boston harbor, 3 miles from the city, and opposite to 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 803 
 
 it is Governor's Island, containing a fortification erected 
 during the last war. These two forts command the en- 
 trance into the harbor of Boston. Seven or eight miles 
 below is a light-house, at the northeast extremity of the 
 channel, where vessels enter Massachusetts Bay, or the 
 Atlantic Ocean. 
 
 Nahant, 12 miles northeast from Boston by water, 
 and 14 miles by railroad and stage, is a peninsala jutting 
 out into Massachusetts Bay, connected with the main 
 land by a delightful beach, or narrow isthmus of sand, 
 so compact as not to receive the imprint of a horse's hoof, 
 or of a carriage wheel, a mile and a half in length, and 
 just high enough to prevent the waves from flowing over 
 it. The peninsula consists of two parts, called Great 
 Nahant and Little Nahant, connected by Bass Neck. 
 Little Nahant, the inner portion, contains forty-two acres, 
 a part of which is under good cultivation. Great Nahant, 
 the outer portion, is two miles long, and in some places 
 half a mile wide, containing 463 acres. The surface is 
 uneven, rising from 50 to 100 feet above the level of the 
 sea. The shores generally consist of precipitous blufis 
 of ragged rock, rising from 20 to 50 feet above the tide, 
 with a great depth of water below. In some places, 
 however, are fine beaches well adapted for bathing. The 
 roar of the ocean against the rocks, and the dashing and 
 boiling of the waves is sometimes terrific. 
 
 A spacious hotel, containing about 100 rooms, is erected 
 near the east extremity of Nahant, on elevated ground, 
 overlooking the ocean for many miles. There are other 
 boarding houses in the vicinity, and about twenty beau- 
 tiful cottages, the summer residences of families of for- 
 tune. This place is much frequented both for health and 
 pleasure during the warm season. A steamboat plies 
 
304 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 between Boston and Nahant, and stages run from Lynn, 
 in connection with the cars on the Eastern Railroad. 
 
 Among the strange visiters at Nahant, it was currently 
 asserted that the Sea Serpent, often seen along the coast, 
 here made his appearance for several successive seasons. 
 This is very probable, as the great quantity offish found 
 at this place would at any time furnish him a bountiful 
 repast. 
 
 In addition to the places already described in the Vici- 
 nity of Boston, there are numerous other places worthy 
 of visiting, more remote, but easily reached by land or 
 water, by means of the various railroads, stages and 
 steamboats, running to and from the city. 
 
 Railroad Route from Boston to Concord, N. H. 
 
 Via the Boston 4" Lowell, Nashau, <§• Concord Railroads. 
 
 To Medford, 4 miles. 
 
 South Woburn, 3 7 " 
 
 Woburn, 3 10 " 
 
 Wilmington, 5 15 " 
 
 Richardson's, 4 19 " 
 
 Billerica, 2 21 •' 
 
 Lowell, 5 26 •' 
 
 Middlesex, 2 28 " 
 
 Chelmsford, 2 30 " 
 
 Tyngsboro, 4 34 " 
 
 Little's, 3 37 " 
 
 Nashua, 4 41 '* 
 
 Thornton's, 6 47 " 
 
 Reed's Ferry, 4 51 " 
 
 GoflF's Falls, 4 55 " 
 
 Manchester, 4 59 '' 
 
 Hookset, 8 67 " 
 
 Concord, 9 76 " 
 
 Passenger cars leave Boston and Concord three times 
 daily, stopping at the intermediate stations. Usual fare 
 through, $2.50; usual time 3 hours. The depot in Bos- 
 ton is on Lowell-street. 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 305 
 
 Passengers on leaving Boston, by railroad route, for 
 Lowell, Nashua, or Concord, N. H., are conveyed over 
 the, Boston and Lowell Railroad, a distance of 26 miles, 
 in about one hour. This is one of the best constructed 
 roads in the country — being finished with a double track, 
 on which are laid 56 lb. T rails, throughout its whole 
 length, and the cars run regularly up on one track, and 
 down on the other. 
 
 The number of miles run on this road by locomotive 
 engines during the year 1842, was, 
 
 With passenger trains, ... 78, 745 
 
 Merchandize trains, 47, 463 
 
 Miscellaneous, 17, 399 
 
 Total miles, 143,607 
 
 The amount of profits divided during the same period' 
 was $144,000, being 2 dividends of 4 per cent each on a 
 capital of $1,800,000. 
 
 At V/iLMiNGTON, 15 miles from Boston, diverges the 
 Boston and Maine Railroad, furnishing a second continu- 
 ous railroad communication between Boston and Portland, 
 Maine, a distance, by this route, of 112 miles. 
 
 The City of Lowell, 26 miles northwest from Boston, 
 stands on the south side of the Merrimack river, below 
 Pawtucket falls, and the junction of Concord river. This 
 place dates its origin only 20 years back, and yet in 
 wealth and numbers, it already ranks as the second city 
 in Massachusetts. It is a remarkable place, and well 
 deserves the name of "the Manchester of America." 
 
 The water power at Lowell is very extensive and ea- 
 sily available. It is furnished by a canal 60 feet wide, 8 
 feet deep, and a mile and a half in length, commencing 
 at the head of Pawtucket falls, which have a descent of 
 about 30 feet. By locks at its outlet, it forms a boatable 
 passage around the falls in the Merrimack. From the 
 
306 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 main canal, the water is carried by lateral canals to mills 
 and .manufactories, where it is used, and is then discharg- 
 ed into the river below. 
 
 Many cities and villages^ in different parts of the 
 Union have, in a few years, by the aid of water power, 
 capital, enterprise and skill, sprung up from nothing, and 
 grown with a vigor and rapidity that is truly surprising; 
 but Lowell it is believed outstrips them all. In 1821, it 
 was a rugged, barren spot, inhabited by only a few fa- 
 milies. In 18£6 it was incorporated as a town, and in 
 1836 it obtained the charter of a city. The population 
 in 1830, was 6,474; in 1840, 20,796; showing an increase 
 in ten years of 14,322. The assessors' valuation of pro- 
 perty in 1840 was $12,400,000. 
 
 The statistics of the condition of the Manufactories 
 at Lowell, furnish facts that may be of interest: 
 
 ■' There are elevenregular Manufacturing Companies a^ 
 Lowell, including the " locks and canals" or water pri- 
 vilege company, which was incorporated in 1792, but did 
 not commence operations until 1822, which may be re- 
 garded as the year of the foundation of Lowell. The 
 Merrimack Company commenced business the next year. 
 and no other until 1824 In 1825, the Hamilton Compa-, 
 ny started; in 1828, the Appleton and Lowell; in 1830, 
 the Middlesex; in 1832, the Suffolk and Tremont; in 
 1833, the Lawrence; in 1836, the Boott; and in 1840, the 
 Massachusetts, being the last. These eleven companies 
 employ an aggregate capital of $10,700,000, employing 
 6,295 females and 2,345 males. Besides these there are 
 in Lowell extensive Powder Mills, a Flannel Mill, Blan- 
 ket Mill, Batting Mill, Foundry, Paper Mill, Bleaching, 
 Cord and Whip Factory, Planing Machine, ReedMachine, 
 Grist and Saw Mills, employing a capital of $500,000 
 and 500 workmen, making the whole manufacturing ca- 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 37Q 
 
 pital of Lowell $11,200,000, employing over 9,000 men, 
 women and children. 
 
 •' The ten principal Manufactories already designated 
 have 33 Mills, beside print works; run 6,194 looms and 
 201,070 spindles, producing 1,425,800 yards of cloth per 
 week, or 74,141,600 during the year 1843. The cotton 
 fabricated by them during the year was 22,880,000 lbs. 
 Of Printed Cloths 273,000 yards per week are made by 
 the Merimack and Hamilton companies. The Middlesex 
 makes 9,000 yards cassimeres, and 1,800 yards of broad- 
 cloth per week, beside 85,000 of cottons. Flannels are 
 made at the Hamilton, sheetings and shirtings at nearly 
 all, with drillings, printed cloths, &c., at several. The 
 average wages paid to females is $1.75 per week beyond 
 the cost of board; to males $2.20 per week; The pay- 
 ments are all made in cash and amount to $150,000 per 
 month. These are the statistics of the chief manufactu- 
 ring town in America — a place which twenty years since, 
 had not a " local habitation nor a name." 
 
 Besides its manufacturing establishments, Lowell pes" 
 sesses some fine public buildings. Mechanics' Hall, a 
 costly brick edifice, was erected by the Mechanics' Asso- 
 ciation, an incorporated institution owning a handsome li- 
 brary and a fine mineralogical cabinet, which, together 
 with a reading roem, is always open to the public. There 
 are also other institutions, a great number of schools, 15 
 churches, 2 banking houses, and a savings' bank; several 
 well kept hotels', and about 200 stores of different kiniis. 
 
 The Indian name of this place was Wamsit, the seat 
 of a tribe of prayirig Indians, at the breaking out of 
 Philip's war, in 1765. Its present name was given in 
 honor of Francis C. Lowell of Boston, distinguished for 
 successful efi'orts to introduce the cotton manufacture into 
 the United States. 
 
-SOS EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 Nashua, New Hampshire, 15 miles north of Lowell^ 
 is situated on the west side of the Merrimack river, imme, 
 diately north of the mouth of Nashua river. This place 
 contains 8 churches, several public houses, 40 or 50 
 stores, and many elegant dwellings. Here terminates 
 the Nashua and Loioell Railroad and commences the 
 Concord Railroad, which extends to 
 
 Concord, distant 35 miles, which lies on the west side 
 of the Merrimack river, where are two bridges. This is 
 the capital of the state of New- Hampshire, and a place of 
 <;onsiderable importance. The village contains about 
 4,000 inhabitants, 200 dwelling houses, a State House, 
 which is an elegant structure of hewn granitej a state 
 prison, a solid structure also of granite; a court-house 
 and jail, 6 churches, several hotels and taverns, and about 
 40 stores. The falls in the Merrimack, and the locks at 
 this place, create a vast water power, which is exten- 
 sively used for manufacturing purposes. By means of 
 artificial navigation for boats, effected by dams, locks and 
 canals above Lowell, the Middlesex Canal below, and a 
 railroad recently finished, a communication is formed 
 with Boston, where the extensive trade of this section of 
 country centres. 
 
 From Concord a line of travel extends northeast to- 
 ward the White Mountains, north to Littleton, until it 
 intersects the upper valley of the Connecticut river, and 
 northwest to Burlington, Vermont; connecting, at the 
 latter place, with the line of travel, north to Montreal 
 and south to Whitehall and Albany. For a table of dis- 
 tances from Burlington to Concord, see page 277. 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 309 
 
 Table of Distances from Concord to Mount Washington. 
 
 To Meredith Bridge, 26 miles. 
 
 Meredith Village, 9 35 '' 
 
 Centre Harbor, , 4 39 " 
 
 Moultonborough, 5 44 " 
 
 Sandwich, 2 46 " 
 
 Tamworth, 12 58 " 
 
 Eaton...... 6 64 " 
 
 Conway, 8 72 '• 
 
 Bartlett, 10 82 " 
 
 Notch, 12 94 '' 
 
 Crawford House, 12 106 '' 
 
 Summit of Mt. Washington,.. 9 115 *' 
 
 The White Mountains of New Hampshire are situa- 
 ted in the county of Coos, in the north part of the state? 
 distant about 100 miles from Concord, in a northerly di- 
 rection, and about the same distance from Portland, 
 Maine. They are also approached by tourists from Bur- 
 lington, via Montpelier and Littleton, and from Ports- 
 mouth, N. H. The road from the latter place passing in 
 the vicinity of several picturesque lakes, the largest of 
 which is Winnepisiogee lake, on which runs a steam- 
 boat from Alton to Centre Harbor, a distance of 20 miles. 
 
 The route from Boston to Concord by railroad, and 
 thence to the White Mountains by stage, is perhaps the 
 most frequented in approaching this magnificent moun- 
 tain region. 
 
 The Portland route, since the completion of the rail- 
 road to Boston, is another expeditious and charming 
 journey — passing through several thriving villages on the 
 seaboard, and from Portland proceeding by stage, in a 
 north wdjt direction to the mountains. 
 
 The different modes of conveyance and variety of 
 routes, afford the traveller an opportunity of approach- 
 ing this region by one road and returning by another — 
 thus increasing the interest of the excursion. 
 
 V 
 
310 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 '' The Indian name of these mountains, according to 
 Dr. Belknap, was Agiocochook. An ancient tradition 
 prevailed among the savages, that a deluge once over- 
 spread the land, and destroyed every human being, ex- 
 cept a single powovf and his wife, who sheltered them- 
 selves in these elevated regions, and thus preserved the 
 race from extermination. The fancy of the natives peo- 
 pled this mountain with beings of a superior rank, who 
 were invisible to the human eye, but sometimes indica- 
 ted their presence by tempests, which they were believed 
 to control with absolute authority. The savages, there- 
 fore, never attempted to ascend the summit, deeming the 
 attempt perilous, and success impossible. But they fre- 
 quented the defiles and environs of the mountain, and of 
 course propagated many extravagant descriptions of its 
 appearance; declaring, among other things equally credi- 
 ble, that they had seen carbuncles at immense heights, 
 which, in the darkness of night, shone with the most 
 4)riiliant and dazzling splendor. 
 
 "These mountains are the highest in New-England: 
 and, if we except the Rocky mountains, whose height has 
 not yet been ascertained, they are the most lofiy of any 
 in the United States. Their great elevation has always 
 rendered them exceedingly interesting both to the abori- 
 ginal inhabitants and to our ancestors. They were visit- 
 ed by IVeal, Joceiyn, and Field, as early as 1632: they 
 gave romantic accounts of their adventures, and of the 
 extent and sublimity of the mountains. 
 
 " Since that time this mountainous region ha^bcen re- 
 peatedly explored by hunters and men of science. Their 
 height has been a subject of much speculation; but from 
 the best surveys, Mount Washington is 6,234 feet above 
 the level of the sea. The following is the height of the 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 3ll 
 
 principal mountains above Connecticut river at Lancas- 
 ter, to wit: 
 
 Mount Washington, 5, 850 feet. 
 
 " Adams, 5,383 
 
 " Jefferson, 5,281 
 
 ■' Madison, 5,039 
 
 " Monroe, 4,932 
 
 " Franklin, 4,470 
 
 *' La Fayette, 4,339 
 
 '^ The names here given are those generally appropri- 
 ated to the different summits. Mount Washington is 
 known by its superior elevation, and by its being the 
 southern of the three highest peaks. Mount Adams is 
 known by its sharp terminating peak, and being the sec- 
 ond north of Washingtou. Jefferson is situated between 
 these two. Madison is the eastern peak of the range. 
 Monroe is the first to the south of Washington. Frank- 
 lin is the second south and is known by its level surface. 
 La Fayette is known by its conical shape, and being the 
 third south of Washington. The ascent to the summits 
 of these mountains, though fatiguing is not dangerous; 
 and the visitant is richly rewarded for his labor and curi- 
 osity. 
 
 " Although these mountains are 65 miles distant from 
 the ocean, their snow white summits are distinctly visi- 
 ble, in good weather, more than 50 miles from shore. 
 Their appearance at that distanceis thatof a silvery cloud 
 skirting the horizon. 
 
 " It would be vain in us to attempt a description of the 
 varied winders which here astonish and delight the be- 
 holder. To those who have visited these mountains, our 
 descriptions would be tame and uninteresting; and he 
 who has never ascended their hoary summits, cannot re- 
 alize the extent and magnificence of the scene. These 
 mountains are decidedly of primitive formation. No- 
 
312 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 thing of volcanic origin has ever yet been been discovered 
 on the most diligent research. They have for ages, pro- 
 bably, exhibited the same imvarying aspect. No mine- 
 rals are here found of much rarity or value. The rock 
 which most abounds, is schistus, intermixed with green- 
 stone, mica, granite and gneiss. The three highestpeaks 
 are composed entirely of fragments of rocks heaped to- 
 gether in confusion, but pretty firmly fixed in their situa- 
 tions. These rocks are an intermediate substance be- 
 tween gneiss and micaceous schistus; they are excessively 
 rough and coarse, and grey, almost black, with lichens. 
 The mica in them is abundant, of difi'erent colors, red, 
 black, and limpid, and though sometimes several inches 
 in diameter, yet most often irregularly stratified. The 
 granite contains emerald, tourmaline, of which are found 
 some beautiful specimens, and garnets, besides its proper 
 constituents. Crystals of quartz, pyrites, actinote, jas- 
 per, porphyry, fiuate of lime, and magnetic iron ore, are 
 sometimes obtained. 
 
 "During nine or ten months of the year, the summits of 
 the mountains are covered with snow and ice, giving them 
 a bright and dazzling appearance. On every side are 
 long and winding gulleys, deepening in their descent to 
 the plains below. 
 
 The Notch of the White Mountains, is a phrase appro- 
 priated to a very narrow defile, extending two miles in 
 length between two huge cliffs apparently rent asunder 
 by some vast convulsion of nature: probably that of the 
 deluge. The entrance of the chasm on the east side, is 
 formed by two rocks standing perpendicular at the dis- 
 tance of 22 feet from each other: one about 20 feet in 
 height, the other about 12. The road from Lancaster to 
 Portland passes through this notch, following the course 
 of the head stream of the Saco. 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 313 
 
 '* The scenery at this place is exceedingly beautiful 
 and grand. The mountain, otherwise a continued range, 
 is here cloven quite down to its base, opening a passage 
 for the waters of the Saco. The gap is so narrow, that 
 space has with diffi-culty been found for the road. About 
 half a mile from the entrance of the chasm is seen a most 
 beautiful cascade, issuing from a mountain on the right, 
 a:bout 800 feet above the subjacent valley, and about 2 
 miles distant. The stream passes over a series of rocks 
 almost perpendicular, with a course so little broken as to 
 preserve the appearance of an uniform current, and yet 
 so far disturbed as to be perfectly white. This beautiful 
 stream which passes down a stupendous precipice, is 
 called by Dr. Dwight, the Silver Cascade. It is probably 
 one of the most beautiful in the world. 
 
 '' At the distance off of a mile from the entrance of the 
 chasm is a brook, called the Flume, which falls from a 
 height of 240 or 250 feet over three precipices — dov/nthe 
 two first in a single current, and over the last in three, 
 which unite again at the bottom in a small basin formed 
 by the hand of nature in the rocks. The water is pure 
 and transparent, and it would be impossible for a brook 
 of its size to be modelled into more diversified or delight- 
 ful forms." 
 
 There are two or more bridle roads, leading from the 
 hotels where travellers stop, to the summit of Mt. Wash- 
 ington. The Crawford routehas been measured and found 
 to be nine miles and twenty-six rods. The Fabyari route 
 is nine miles one-quarter and thirty- seven rods, ascertain- 
 ed by accurate measurement, made Aug. 12, 1843. 
 
314 eastern tour. 
 
 Routes between Boston and Portland, Me. 
 
 There are now three great lines of travel between Eos- 
 ton and Portland. 
 
 The first is by railroad route via the Boston and Maine 
 Railroad, diverging from the Lowell Railroad at Wil- 
 mington, and passing through Haverhill. Mass.j and Ex- 
 eter and Dover, N. H, 
 
 The second is by the Eastern Railroad, passing through 
 Portsmouth and several other important places on the 
 seaboard. This road and the former unite at South Ber- 
 wick, 12 miles east of Portsmouth. 
 
 The third is by steamboat through Massachusetts Bay, 
 passing Cape Ann, and running down the Atlantic coast 
 to Cape Elizabeth and Casco Bay, on which bay Port- 
 land is situated. 
 
 Railroad Route from Boston to Portland, via Boston and 
 Maine Railroad. 
 
 To Wilmington, 15 miles. 
 
 Andover, 8 23 '' 
 
 North Andover, 3 26 " 
 
 Bradford, 5 31 '' 
 
 Haverhill, 1 32 '*' 
 
 Plaistow 5 37 '' 
 
 East Kingston, 6 43 " 
 
 Exeter, 49 " 
 
 South New Market, 4 53 '' 
 
 New Market; 4 57 " 
 
 Durham, 4 61 '* 
 
 Dover 5 66 " 
 
 Somersworth, 3 69 '' 
 
 Salmon Falls Village, 1 70 " 
 
 South Berwick, junction East- 
 ern Railroad, 3 73 " 
 
 Portland, 39 112 " 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 315 
 
 Railroad Route from Boston to Portland, by Eastern 
 
 Railroad. 
 
 To Lynn, 9 miles. 
 
 Salebi, 5 14 " 
 
 Beverly, 2 16 " 
 
 Wenham, 4 20 " 
 
 Ipswich, ....>'..... 5 25 " 
 
 Rowley, 4 29 " 
 
 Newburypokt, 5 34 " 
 
 Salisbury, 2 36 '' 
 
 Seabrook, 4 40 *' 
 
 Hampton 4 44 *^ 
 
 Greenland, 5 49 " 
 
 Portsmouth, ,.. 5 54 " 
 
 Kittery, Maine, 1 55 " 
 
 South Berwick, 11 66 " 
 
 North Berwick, 6 72 " 
 
 Wells, 5 77 " 
 
 Kennebunk, 5 82 '" 
 
 Saco, 10 92 '' 
 
 Scarboro', 8 100 " 
 
 Portland, 5 105 " 
 
 Cars on both these routes run through in five hours 
 
 and fifteen minutes. 
 
 Steamboat Route from Boston to Bangor, Me., via 
 
 Portland. 
 
 To Cape Ann, 32 miles. 
 
 Mouth of Piscataqua river,. . . 30 62 " 
 
 Hood Island, 26 88 " 
 
 Portland, 17 105 " 
 
 Thoraaston, 65 170 '' 
 
 Belfast, 30 200 ''' 
 
 Bucksport, 20 220 '• 
 
 Frankfort, 10 230 *' 
 
 Bangor,. 15 245 ■■ 
 
 Passengers going over the ^osiora and Maine Railroad, 
 on their route to Portland, leave Boston from the depot 
 in Lowell-street, and are carried rapidly through a suc- 
 cession of villages, and an interesting section of country, 
 until they arrive at South Berwick, Maine, where the 
 
31G EASTERN TOUE.. 
 
 country assumes rather a barren aspect, which is continu- 
 ed until you approach Portland. 
 
 Passengers on leaving Boston by the Eastern Railroad 
 route, are carried by a steam ferry boat to East-Boston^ 
 starting from near Lewis's Wharf. This is a well con- 
 ducted line of travelj and the road being constructed in the 
 most substantial manner, induces great speed as well as 
 safety. The number of miles run on this Eastern Rail- 
 road in 1842, which extends from Boston to Portsmouth,, 
 N. H., was, 
 
 With passenger trains, 139,715 
 
 Merchandize trains, 28,460 
 
 Total miles, 168,175 
 
 The total number of passengers carried dming the 
 same period, was, 431,260. 
 
 Lynn, 9 miles from Boston, is the first stopping place 
 after leaving the citj?", and the point where passengers 
 take the stage for Nahant. This place has long been 
 celebrated for the manufacture of ladies' shoes, of which 
 it produces over 2.500,000 pairs annually. The village, 
 which is scattered, contains 8 churches, 2 banks of dis- 
 count, a savings bank, several public houses, and 30 or 
 40 stores. 
 
 The City of Salem, 14 miles from Boston, is an old and 
 wealthy town. In 1840 it contained 15,032 inhabitants 
 principally engaged in manufactures, commerce and na. 
 vigation. It is a well built, pleasant, healthy place, dis- 
 tinguished for its enterprise, and for its numerous and 
 well managed institutions. Next to Plymouth it is the 
 oldest town in the state, having been settled in 1628. 
 It is chiefly built on a tongue of land formed by two 
 inlets from the sea, called North and South rivers, over 
 the former of which is a bridge, upwards of 1,500 feet 
 long, connecting it with Beverly, and the latter forms the 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 317 
 
 harbor. The harbor has good anchorage gronnd, but ves- 
 sels drawing more than 12 or 14 feet of water must be 
 partially unloaded before they can come to its wharves. 
 The situation of Salem is low, but it is pleasant and 
 healthy. It is well built, and latterly most of the houses 
 which have been erected, are of brick, and many of them 
 are tasteful and elegant. The compact part of Salem is 
 about one and a half miles long, and half a mile wide. 
 The streets are irregular, having been originally laid out 
 v/ithout much regard to symmetry and beauty. In the 
 southern part of the town there is an elegant public 
 square or common, containing about 10 acres, surrounded 
 by a handsome public walk, ornamented with rows of 
 trees. An aqueduct supplies the city with an abundance 
 of excellent spring water. Salem was long the second 
 town in New England in wealth, commerce, and popula- 
 tion; but Providence and Lowell now exceed it in popu- 
 lation, and New Bedford in shipping. It was long dis- 
 tinguished for its East India trade, by which it was great- 
 ly enriched; but this branch of commerce, though still 
 carried on, is less extensive than formerly. On a penin- 
 sula below the town are Fort Pickering and Fort Lee; 
 and on Baker's Island there is a light-house. The ton- 
 nage of this port in 1840, was 37,020, 
 
 Among the public buildings are a court-house, a jail, 
 an alms house, a market house, an East India Marine 
 Museum, and a Lyceum. It has 9 banks, with an ag- 
 gregate capital of $2,000,000; 6 insurance companies, 
 with a total capital of $950, 000; a marine insurance com- 
 pany, and an institution for savings. There are ^two 
 public libraries, an athenaeum containing 10,000 volumes, 
 and a mechanics' library, containing 1,200 volumes. 
 There are 16 churches — 4 Unitarian, 4 Congregational, 2 
 Baptist, 1 Episcopal, 1 Methodist, 1 Christian, 1 Roman 
 Catholic, 1 Friends, and 1 Universalist. 
 
B18 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 Harmony Grove Cemetery, situated on the east side of 
 North river, about one mile from the city, was laid out 
 in 1840, and now presents a beautiful aspect, the grounds 
 being admirably adapted and arranged for a burial place. 
 Here are to be seen picturesque dells, shady lawns, and 
 craggy rocks covered with moss grown trees, giving the 
 place altogether a romantic appearance. 
 
 Beverly, 2 miles from Salem, is connected with the 
 latter place by a bridge 1,500 feet long. The village con- 
 tains 4 churches, 1 bank, and 1 insurance company. The 
 inhabitants are chiefly employed in commerce and the 
 fisheries. 
 
 Ipswich, 25 miles from Boston, is a port of entry. It 
 contains a court-house and jail, 1 bank, 4 churches, a fe- 
 male seminary of considerable celebrity, 2 public houses, 
 and several stores. 
 
 Newbtjrypobt, 34 miles from Boston, is one of the 
 capitals of Essex county, and a port of entry, where are 
 annually built a number of large vessels. It is beautifully 
 situated on the south bank of the Merrimack river, near its 
 entrance into the Atlantic. The streets are wide, intersect- 
 ing each other at right angles. It contains a brick court* 
 house and a stone jail, a custom house built of rough gran, 
 ite, 8 churches, 3 banks, a savings bank, 3 insurance com- 
 panies, an alms-house, a lyceum. several public houses, 
 and about 100 stores. Here are owned numerous vessels 
 employed in the cod, mackerel, and whale fisheries, giving 
 employment to upwards of one thousand men. The har- 
 bor is safe and spacious, but difficult of entrance. 
 
 Portsmouth, N. H., 54 miles from Boston, 51 from 
 Portland, Maine, and 45 from Concord, is the largest town 
 and the only seaport in the state. It is advantageously 
 situated on a peninsula on the south side of the Piscata- 
 qua river, three miles from the ocean. The streets are 
 
EASTEHN TOUR. 3|9 
 
 somewhat crooked, yet the houses are mostly well buiitj 
 and some of them elegant. It has a fine harbor, with 40 
 feet water in the channel at low tide, and is protected by 
 islands and headlands from storms. The Piscataqua 
 which here forms the boundary between the states of New 
 Hampshire and Maine, is about half a mile wide, and the 
 tide rising 10 feet, flows with so rapid a current as to 
 keep the harbor free from ice. There are three or four 
 fortified points at the mouth of the harbor: Fort Consti- 
 tution is situated on Great Island, and Fort McClary in 
 Kittery, on the north side of the harbor. 
 
 On Continental or Navy Island, lying opposite Ports- 
 mouth, within the bounds of Maine, is an extensive Navy 
 Yard belonging to the U. States Government, which has 
 every convenience for the construction of ships of war of 
 the largest class. 
 
 Portsmouth contains much wealth and has considerable 
 trade, though its back country is rather limited, bein*^ 
 situated about equi-distant between Boston and Portland 
 much of the trade of the interior flows to those places. 
 Among the public buildings are 8 churches, 6 banking 
 ?iouses, a court house, 2 market houses, an athenseum, an 
 alms-house, and the State Lunatic Asylum; there are 
 about 150 stores of diflferent kinds, and several hotels. 
 Those of most note are the Rockingham House on State 
 street; Mansion House, (temperance.) Congress-street- 
 and Franklin House, Congress-street. 
 
 On leaving Portsmouth, proceeding north, the railroad 
 track crosses the Piscataqua river by means of a sub- 
 stantial bridge, extending to Kittery, Maine; from thence 
 the route extends 11 miles to 
 
 South Berwick, where the Boston and Maine Rail- 
 road, running through Dover, intersects the Portland, 
 Saco and Portsmouth Railroad. Here the cars are usu- 
 
320 EASTERJf TOUR. 
 
 ally detained a short time, in order to have the passen- 
 gers transferred from the former road to the latter, which 
 runs through to Portland, a further distance of 39 miles. 
 Wells, 11 miles from South Berwick, lies a few miles 
 east of the railroad. 
 
 Kbnnebunk Depot, five miles further, is situated 
 about 2 miles from the village. 
 
 Saco, 38 miles from Portsmouth, and 13 from Port- 
 land is a port of entry, situated on the northeast side of 
 Saco river, 6 miles from the ocean. Here is a fall in the 
 river of 42 feet, creating a great water pov/er, and pre- 
 senting an interesting and beautiful view. There 
 are numerous mills at this place and many hand- 
 some dwellings. Immediately below the falls is a fine 
 basin where vessels take in their cargoes. On the shore 
 of the river below the village, there is a fine beach, 4 
 miles long, within sight of the ocean, which affords a 
 pleasant drive in warm weather. 
 
 From Saco to Portland, a distance of 13 miles, the 
 railroad passes over a level section of country, in part 
 covered with a small growth of trees, and some meadow 
 lands. On approaching Portland, the railroad extends 
 over a bridge of considerable length, extending across 
 an arm of the sea which in part forms the peninsula on 
 which the city stands. The depot is about one mile from 
 the centre of the town, passengers being usually carried 
 to the hotels in carriages. 
 
 The City of Portland, is very advantageously situa- 
 ted on a peninsula at the western extremity of Casco 
 bay. It is distant 105 miles from Boston ; 50 from Au- 
 gusta, the capital of the State, and 545 from Washington. 
 The city presents a beautiful appearance from the sea, 
 and the islands in the bay, as it rises like an amphithea- 
 tre between two hills. It is regularly laid out, and 
 handsomely built, and has some fine public edifices, 
 
EASTERN TOUR. ^1 
 
 among which are a spacious city hall, a court house and 
 jail, and 16 churches; a custom-house, 6 hanks, a theatre, 
 and an athenseum, containing a library of 4 or 5,000 
 volumes. On an eminence called Mount Joy, on which 
 Fort Sumner formerly stood, there is an observatory 82 
 feet in height, being elevated 226 feet above the ocean, 
 commanding a fine view of the harbor, and the adjacent 
 country. Casco bay is seen lying to the east, studded 
 with islands and rocky islets, said to amount to 365 in 
 number, — on the north is a body of water called Back 
 Cove, — the city is immediately on the south-west, and 
 presents a splendid appearance in connection .with the 
 harbor aad shipping, — Cape Elizabeth lies on the south, 
 3 miles distant, where is located Cape Cottage, a much 
 frequented public house and delightful place of resort 
 during warm weather, — Fort Preble stands two miles 
 southeast and commands the ship channel in connec- 
 tion with Fort Scammel, situated on an island. Beyond 
 it lies the broad Atlantic ocean, where during the 
 fall months of September and October, numerous small 
 vessels are seea engaged in taking mackerel. Mount 
 IVashington, the highest peak of the White Hills of 
 New-Hampshire, distant 90 miles, may be seen on a 
 clear day by looking through the glass here used in the 
 observatory, which is a large and excellent instrument of 
 the kind. Few places exceed Portland in point of loca- 
 tion, having an extensive back country. Its trade is large 
 and important ; the principal articles of export are lum- 
 ber, fish and country produce. The trade with the West 
 Indies is very great, also with Boston and New- York, and 
 southern ports. 
 
 The Oxford Canal which extends to Sebago pond, 20 
 miles northwest, affords 50 miles of inland navigation. 
 An important road also diverges in the same direction, 
 
322 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 which enters New-Hampshire and extends across into 
 Vermont. Over this road stages run three times a week 
 to the White Mountains, distant 92 miles, connecting 
 with lines of travel to Concord, and Burlington, Ver- 
 mont. 
 
 The principal Hotels in Portland are the American 
 House, Congress-street; Casco Temperance House, Mid- 
 dle-street; Elm Tavern, Federal- street; United States 
 Hotel, corner Congress and Federal-streets; besides many 
 others of less note in different parts of the city. 
 
 Lines of Tkavel from Portland. 
 Stages connecting v/ith the railroad cars from Boston, 
 run twice daily from Portland to Augusta via Brunswick; 
 thence daily to Bangor, Ellsworth and Eastport. 
 
 A tri-weekly line of stages run from Portland to Au- 
 gusta, via Lisbon and Winthrop — distance 60 miles. On 
 the opposite days a stage runs through, via Gray, Lewis- 
 ton and Winthrop, — intersecting with the Farmington and 
 Buckfield stages. 
 
 A daily line of stages run from Portland to Bath, via (, 
 Brunswick, — thence on the shore road to Ellsworth and 
 Eastport, — intersecting at Ellsworth the stages from Ban- 
 gor. « 
 Tri-weekly stages run from 
 
 Portland to Paris, 40 miles ; 
 
 " Water ford, 40 miles ; 
 
 '* Dover, N. H., via Alfred, 56 miles; 
 
 " White Mountains, 92 miles. 
 
 A line of steamboats run from 
 Portland to Boston, 105 miles; 
 
 " Hallo well, 61 miles; » 
 
 " Bangor, 140 miles. 
 
EA5.TEIIN TOUR. 323 
 
 Stage Route from Portland to Bangor, via Augusta. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 To North Yarmouth, 12 
 
 " Brunswick, 14 26 
 
 '• Boardinham, 10 36 
 
 ''Richmond, 11 47 
 
 " Gardiner, , 7 54 
 
 " Augusta, 6 60 
 
 " Vassalboro 12 72 
 
 " China, 9 81 
 
 '' Unity, 14 95 
 
 " Dixmont, 12 107 
 
 '* West Hamden, 11 118 
 
 "■ Bangor,... 11 129 
 
 Fare through $5.50 — Usual time 20 hours. 
 
 Stages run twice daily from Portland to Augusta, via 
 
 Brunswick — connecting with railroad cars at Portland, 
 
 From Augusta stages run to Bangor and other places. 
 
 Stages twice a week leave Augusta for Quebec, running 
 
 over the Kennebec road, via Norridgewock. 
 
 Stage Route from Portland to Easiport. 
 
 MILES. 
 
 Falmouth, 7 
 
 North Yarmouth, 5 12 
 
 Freeport, , 6 18 
 
 Brunswick, 9 27 
 
 Bath, (Kennebec river,) 7 34 
 
 WiSCASSET, 15 49 
 
 Waldoboro', 18 67 
 
 Warren, 9 76 
 
 Thomaston, 4 80 
 
 Camden, 11 91 
 
 Belfast, 18 109 
 
 Castine, (across Penobscot bay,) 9 118 
 
 Bluehill, 10 128 
 
 Ellsworth, 14 142 
 
 Franklin, ]2 154 
 
 Cherryfield, 20 174 
 
 Columbia, 12 186 
 
 Machias, 15 201 
 
 Whiting, 14 215 
 
 Eastport, 15 230 
 
324 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 ♦ 
 
 This route extends along near the coast of Maine, 
 which is deeply indented with numerous inlets or bays, 
 filled with islands and rocky islets, often presenting a 
 truly grand and romantic appearance. 
 
 Eastport, lies on an island in Passamaquoddy bay, 
 into which empties the St, Croix River, forming the 
 eastern boundary of the United Slates. 
 
 Augusta, 60 miles northeast of Portland, is situated 
 on both sides of the Kennebec river, 43 miles from the 
 ocean, at the head of sloop navigation. This is the capi- 
 tal of the State of Maine, and is a beautiful place. The 
 State House is constructed of white granite, and stands 
 on a commanding eminence, half a mile south of the vil- 
 lage. The population in 184u, was 5,314. It is regular- 
 ly laid out, the ground rising on each side of the river, 
 and a fine bridge extends across the Kennebec, 520 feet 
 long, connecting the two parts of the town- 
 
 The principal hotels are the Augusta House, and the 
 Mansion House; there are also several others of less note. 
 
 Below Augusta, on the Kennebec river, are Hallo- 
 well, Gardiner and Bath, at all of which steamboats 
 stop on their trips to and from Portland. 
 
 The City of Baxgor, 129 miles from Portland in a 
 northeast direction, and distant 245 miles from Boston, 
 is the easternmost place of note in the United States. 
 It is situated on the west side of Penobscot river, 60 miles 
 from the ocean, at the head of steamboat navigation. 
 The tide here rises 17 feet, and is of itself sufficient to 
 float vessels of a large class. The principal article of 
 trade is lumber, which com_es down the river in immense 
 quantities, from a fertile region of country., 
 
 The city occupies a pleasant and commanding situa- 
 tion. The buildings for the most part are not only neat, 
 but many of them elegant. Steamboats ply regularly 
 
EASTERN TOUR, 325 
 
 between Bangor and Portland, and Boston, for about eight 
 months in the year, when the river is free from ice. The 
 population in 1840, was 8,627, and is rapidly increasing. 
 The principal hotels are the Bangor House, the Franklin 
 House, and the Penobscot Exchange, 
 
 Below Bangor on the Penobscot river, are Frankfort, 
 BucKSPORT, Belfast and Thomaston; at all of which 
 steamboats l^nd and receive passengers on their trips to 
 and from Portland and Boston, 
 
 On leaving Portland for Boston, the traveller has the 
 choice of three lines of travel — by steamboat, or by rail- 
 road through Portsmouth, or over the upper railroad 
 through Dover. The latter, although a few miles further, 
 is usually run over in the same time, and passes through 
 an interesting section of country. 
 
 LINES OF TRAVEL BETWEEN BOSTON AND 
 NEW-YORK, 
 
 There are three great lines of travel between the above 
 5)laces. The most direct is by way of Providence, pass- 
 ing over the Boston and Providence Railroad, 42 miles 
 in length. From thence passengers are conveyed by rail- 
 road to Stonington, Conn., and take a steamboat for New- 
 York, or take a steamboat at Providence, stopping at 
 Newport to land and receive passengers. Either of the 
 above routes are desirable and speedy modes of convey- 
 ance. 
 
 At Mansfield, 24 miles from Boston, a branch railroad 
 diverges south to Taunton, 11 miles — from thence the 
 New-Bedford and Taunton Railroad, extends to New- 
 Bedford, a further distance of 20 miles. 
 
 The City of Providence, the semi-capital of Rhode- 
 island, in connection with Newport, is situated at the 
 iiead of Narraganset bay, on the west side of Sekonk or 
 
 W 
 
326 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 Providence river. 35 miles from the ocean, and 182 miles 
 from the city of New-York. This is the second city in 
 New-England in point of population and trade. Vessels of 
 900 tons come up to its wharves, and it has long been 
 successfully engaged in a trade with the West Indies and 
 China, Packets also run direct to most of the ports in 
 the Union. The population in 1840, was, 23,171, many 
 of whom are engaged in commerce and manufacturing 
 pursuits. Among the public buildings are the State 
 House, several churches, which for specimens of archi- 
 tecture may be ranked among the finest buildings of the 
 kind in the country ; the Arcade, extending between two 
 streets, with a fine Doric portico on each, and Brown 
 University, occupying a commanding situation, has two 
 large brick edifices, 4 stories high; this is an old estab- 
 lished institution of learning, having been originally es- 
 tablished in Warren, in 1764, and was removed to Provi- 
 dence in 1770 ; it has a president, and 8 professors and 
 instructors. Here is a State Prison, lately erected, and a 
 new Theatre ; the Athenseum, founded in 1836, has a 
 handsome granite building, and a library of 7,000 volumes. 
 It has 21 banks, with an aggregate capital of eight millions 
 of dollars, and 3 insui-ance companies. The Blackstone 
 Canal, extending from Worcester, Mass., terminates here; 
 also, the Boston and Providence Railroad, which consti- 
 tutes one of the great links in the line of travel between 
 the cities of New- York and Boston ; the latter place be- 
 ing 42 miles distant. 
 
 Providence was settled in 1636, by Roger Williams, 
 and others, who fled from Massachusetts on account of 
 their religious opinions, and who early adopted in this 
 place the principles of universal toleration. 
 
 Newport, situated on the southwest side of Rhode 
 Island, 5 miles from the ocean, has one of the finest bar- 
 
EASTEllN TOUR. 327 
 
 bors in the world, being safe, and easily accessible by 
 ships of the largest class. The harbor, which is of a 
 semi- circular form, spreads westward before the town ; 
 it is defended by Fort Adams, situated on Goat Is- 
 land, ^ miles below the town, which is garrisoned by 
 several companies of XJ. S. troops. Fort Greene,^ built 
 during the late war, has been suffered to go to decay; it 
 was at the northern extremity of the town. This place 
 appears to great advantage as it is approached from the 
 water, the ground rising in a beautiful and gentle accli- 
 vity, shows the buildings to much advantage. The plea- 
 santness of its situation, and the healthfulness of its cli- 
 mate, its fine views, and its cooling ocean breezes, have 
 rendered it a favorite summer resort to the most fashion- 
 able class of inhabitants of the northern and southern 
 states. It contains a state house, market house, theatre, 
 a public library containing over 8,000 volumes, 3 acade- 
 mies, 6 banks, and 12 churches of different denomina- 
 tions ; 1.200 dwelling houses, and 8 or 9,000 inhabitants. 
 The accommodations for visitors are ample and of a good 
 character, affording every inducement to the invalid and 
 seeker of pleasure to make this place a summer resi- 
 dence. 
 
 Stonington, 89 miles from Boston, and 135 miles 
 from New- York, by water, is situated on a point of la;id 
 which projects half a mile into the east end of Long- Is- 
 land Sound, and has a good harbor, protected by a break- 
 water, constructed by the United States Government. It 
 contains about 1,000 inhabitants, many of whom are en- 
 gaged in navigation ; here being owned several vessels 
 engaged in the whaling business. The Providence and 
 Stonington Railroad extends from this place to Provi- 
 dence, a distance of 47 miles. A line of steamboats of 
 the first class run daily between this place and the city of 
 New- York. 
 
328 eastern tour. 
 
 Worcester and Norwich Eotjte. 
 
 The route between Boston and New- York, via Wor- 
 cester and Norwich, Conn., is a favorite line of travel. 
 The cars pass over 110 miles of railroad through an in- 
 teresting section of country, -until they reach Allen's 
 Point, 7 miles below Norwich. Here there is a suffi- 
 cient depth of water for the steamers at all tides, which 
 run to the city of New- York. For a description of Wor- 
 cester see page 287. 
 
 Norwich is situated at the head of navigation on 
 Thames river, 13 miles north of New-London, and dis- 
 tant 103 miles from Boston. The site is singularly ro- 
 mantic, on the steep declivity of a high hill, which causes 
 the streets to rise above each other like terraces The 
 city contains a court-house and jail, a town-hall, 4 banks, 
 2 insurance companies, 7 churches, several public houses,^ 
 80 or 90 stores, and 4,200 inhabitants. 
 
 In the immediate vicinity of this place are several in- 
 teresting localities. At the junction of the Yantic with 
 the Shetucket rivers, which united take the name of 
 Thames, is situated a romantic cataract, affording a fine 
 site for mills and manufactories. The village around it 
 is called Yanticville. From a high projecting rock,, 
 which overhang these falls, it is said the Mohegan In- 
 dians formerly plunged to destruction, rather than fall 
 into the hands of the Narragansetts who were pursuing 
 them. In the rocks which form the bed of the stream at 
 this point, will often be found circular perpendicular 
 holes, five or six feet deep, evidently formed by stones 
 whirled round within them by the force of the water. 
 These holes are so regular as to appear like a work of 
 art, and are a curiosity. 
 
 New-London, is situated on the west side of the Thames 
 river, 3 miles from its entrance into Long-Island Sound. 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 329 
 
 and is distant 120 miles from the city of New- York. 
 This harbor is one of the best in the United States ; it 
 has a depth of 30 feet, and is spacious and safe. Fort 
 Trumbull, situated on a projecting point, about one mile 
 below the city, defends the approach to the town together 
 with Fort Griswold, on the east side of the river. 
 
 The county courts are alternately held at this place and 
 Norwich. It contains a court-house and jail, 5 churches, 
 3 banks, 2 insurance companies, 40 stores, and several 
 public houses. In the rear of the city the ground rises 
 to a considerable height, and from its summit presents a 
 fine view of the harbor and the surrounding country. 
 
 This is the only place at which the steamboat stops, 
 running in connection with the railroad cars on the Nor- 
 wich and Worcester Railroad route ,• total distance from 
 Boston to New- York, 236 miles. 
 
 Spkingfield and Hartford Route. 
 
 This is destined to be a favorite line of travel between 
 the cities oi Boston and New- York, passing through the 
 most interesting portions of the states of Massachusetts and 
 Connecticut. The route to Springfield is described in a 
 previous part of this volume. At the distahce of 98 miles 
 from Boston by railroad, the line of travel diverges down 
 the beautiful valley of the Connecticut. 25 miles to the 
 city of Hartford. A railroad is now in the course of 
 construction between Springtfeld and Hartford, which 
 when finished will furnish a line of railroads from Bos- 
 ton to New-Haven, a distance of 161 miles, thence by 
 steamboat to the city of New-York, a total distance of 
 241 miles by this route. For a description of Springfield, 
 see page 284. 
 
 The City of Hartford, the semi-capital of the state, 
 is handsomely situated on the west side of the Connec- 
 ticut river, 50 miles from its mouth, at the head of sloop. 
 
330 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 navigation. The compact part of the city is more than a 
 mile in length, and three-fourths of a mile wide, and con- 
 tained in 1840, a population of 9,46S. Among the pub- 
 lic buildings and institutions, is the state house, a spa- 
 cious and handsome edifice ; the city hall is a large build- 
 ing of the Doric order of architecture ; Washington Col- 
 lege is situated on elevated ground in the western part of 
 the city, where are two large edifices ; it was founded in 
 1824, and has a president, and 8 other professors or in- 
 structors. It is under the direction of the Episcopalians, 
 and is in a flourishing condition. The commencement is 
 on the first Thursday of August. The American Asy- 
 lum, for the instruction of the deaf and dumb, was the 
 first establishment of the kind in the United States. The 
 Retreat for the Insane, is situated on a commanding emi. 
 nence south of the state-house, and was opened in 18.24. 
 The Atheneum, is a new edifice of the Gothic order of 
 architecture, and accommodates the Young Men's Insti- 
 tute, Historical Society, and Gallery of Paintings. There 
 are in the city 12 churches ,; 5 banks, and a bank for sav- 
 ings ; 3 fire and marine insurance companies ; an arsenal; 
 a museum, and 2 markets. The principal hotels are the 
 City Hotel, Main-street, and the United States Hotel, 
 State-street, besides several others of less note. 
 
 Hartford is well situated, and is no doubt destined to in- 
 crease in commercial importance ,• Connecticut river has 
 been made navigable for boats 220 miles, to the mouth of 
 Wells river, at Newbury, Vt.; opening an extensive and 
 rich country to it on the north, while it enjoys facilities 
 of sloop navigation into Long Island Sound, and the 
 railroad in progress of construction to Springfield, when 
 finished, will much benefit this place by connecting it 
 with the great line of travel east and west. Steamboats 
 • of a small class can navigate the river for many miles 
 above Hartford. 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 331 
 
 The City of New Haven", the semi-capital of Connecti. 
 cut with Hartford, distant 38 miles by railroad route, 
 lies round the head of a bay which sets up four miles 
 from Long Island Sound. The city is situated on a beau- 
 tiful plain, with a slight inclination toward the water, 
 and skirted in other directions by an amphitheatre of hills, 
 two of which consist of bold rocky eminences, called 
 East and West Rock, which presents fronts nearly per- 
 pendicular from 300 to 370 feet high. Two small rivers 
 discharge their waters into the bay on either side of the 
 town ; West river on the west, and Quinnipac on the east. 
 The city extends about 3 miles from e. to w. and 2 
 from s, to N. It is laid out with great regularity, and 
 consists of 2 parts, the old town and the new township. 
 
 The harbor of New-Haven is safe but shallow, and 
 gradually filling up with mud. It has about 7 feet of 
 water on the bar at low tide, and the common tides rise 
 to 6 feet, and the spring tides about 7 or 8 feet. Long 
 wharf is 3,943 feet in length, the longest in the United 
 States, At present its foreign trade is chiefly with the 
 West Indies, The tonnage of the port in 1840, was 11,- 
 500, A line of steamboats connects this city with New- 
 York, and also several lines of packets. The Farming - 
 ton canal connects this place with Northampton, Mass, 
 -and Connecticut river near it ; and a railroad connects it 
 with Hartford. The town contains 20 houses of public 
 worship, viz : 9 Congregational, 3 Methodist, 3 Episco- 
 pal, 1 Baptist, 1 Catholic, 2 colored Methodist, 1 color- 
 ed Congregational. There are also a customhouse, an. 
 almshouse, a jail, a museum, 3 banks, and a saving in- 
 stitution; various benevolent societies, the Young Men's 
 Institute, and an institution for popular lectures, with 
 one of the best selected libraries in the Union. The 
 State Hospital, founded in 1832, is half a mile southwest 
 
332 EASTERN TOUR. 
 
 from the centre of tlie city, and has a fine edifice with 
 a colonnade. But the most important public institution 
 ih the city is Yale College, one of the oldest and most 
 extensive institutions of the kind in the United States. 
 Without large funds, it has accomplished great things. 
 It was founded in 1701, originally at Killingworth. It 
 was removed to Saybrook in 1707, and to New Haven 
 in 1717. There are 4 college halls, 100 feet long by 40 
 wide, 4 stories high, containing 32 rooms each for stu- 
 dents ; and north of these is another hall devoted to the 
 use of the theological students ; there is a chapel, in 
 which is one story appropriated to religious worship, and 
 one to the college library ; and two other buildings, called 
 the Athenaeum, and the Lyceum, appropriated to recita- 
 tion and lecture rooms, rooms for the professors, and for 
 the libraries of the literary societies. These are all of 
 brick ,• and the buildings intermediate between the college 
 halls, have neat cupolas ; one of which is after the model 
 of the Temple of the Winds, fitted up for the use of a 
 splendid telescope. In the rear of these is another range 
 of buildings, consisting of the chemical laboratory; the 
 commons hall in the second story, of which is a spacious 
 apartment devoted to the most splendid mineralogical 
 cabinet in the United States, containing more than 16,000 
 specimens, many of them rare ; and a stone building 
 stuccoed, and containing a splendid collection of paintings 
 by the late Col. Trumbull and others. A short distance 
 from these are the buildings devoted to the law and medical 
 departments, the latter of which has an anatomical mu- 
 seum and library. Yale College has more students, 
 and has educated more men than any other college in the 
 country. In 1841, the officers were 30 in number. Of 
 these, besides the president, 17 were professors, and the 
 remainder were tutors or subordinate officers; 15 are con- 
 
EASTERN TOUR. 333 
 
 nected with the college proper. The whole number of 
 students of all descriptions was 550. Of these 410 were 
 undergraduates ; 59 theological students ; 31 law ; 47 
 medical ; and 3 resident graduates. The whole number 
 of graduates is over 5,000, of whom nearly 1^400 were 
 ministers. The number of volumes in the various libra- 
 ries is 33,000; among which are many old and rare, as 
 well as many splendid modern works. The commence- 
 ment is on the third Wednesday of August. 
 
 New Haven was first settled in 1638, by a colony un- 
 der Theophilus Eaton, the first governor, and John Da- 
 venport, the first minister, whom Cotton Mather de- 
 nominated the ''Moses and Aaron" of the settlement. 
 In 1665, this colony was united by a royal charter to 
 Connecticut. In 1784, New Haven was chartered as a 
 city. In July, 1779, the city was invaded and plundered 
 by about 3,000 British troops from New-York, under 
 Generals Tryon and Garth, after a feeble opposition on 
 the part of the inhabitants. 
 
RAILROADS IN NEW-ENGLxlND. 
 
 Finished or in Progress of Construction — 1843. 
 
 Name. 
 
 Bangor and Orono, 
 
 Portland, Saco, & Ports- 
 mouth, 
 
 Eastern, 
 
 Marbleliead Branch, 
 
 Boston and Lowell, 
 
 Nashua and Lowell, 
 
 Concord, 
 
 Boston and Maine, 
 
 Great Falls Branch, 
 
 Boston and Providence,- • 
 
 Dedham Branch, 
 
 Taunton Branch, 
 
 New Bedford and Taunton 
 Providence & Stonington, 
 
 Quincy, 
 
 Fitchburg,* 
 
 Boston and Worcester, •• 
 Norwich and Worcester, • 
 Extension, do. 
 
 Western, • 
 
 West-Stockbridge, 
 
 Berkshire, 
 
 Housatonic, 
 
 New-Haven & Hartford, • 
 Hartford and Springfield* 
 
 From. 
 
 To. 
 
 Bangor, • 
 
 Orono, 
 
 Portland, ♦•'•••• iPortsmouth,- 
 
 Portsmouth, •••[Boston, 
 
 Eastern RailroadjMarblehead,' 
 
 Boston, Lowell, 
 
 Lowell, iNashua, 
 
 Nashua, Concord, 
 
 Wilmington, S. Berwick, M. 
 
 B. ^.M.^Railroad G. F. Village,- 
 
 Boston, Providence, •• 
 
 B. &P. Railroad, Dedham," 
 
 Mansfield, Taunton, 
 
 Taunton, New-Bedford,- 
 
 Providence, Stonington,- •• 
 
 Quincyj Neponset river 
 
 Boston, Fitchburg, 
 
 Boston, Worcester, •-• 
 
 Worcester, Norwich, 
 
 Norwich, Allen's Point,- 
 
 Worcesier, N. Y. S. Line, - 
 
 N. Y. State Line, W.Stockbri'ge 
 W. Stockbridge,- Conn. St. Line, 
 Conn. State Line, jBridgeport,- •- j 
 
 New Haven, Hartford, 
 
 jHartford, Springfield,- •- 
 
 Total miles. 
 
 Miles. 
 11 
 
 51 
 
 54 
 
 '26 
 15 
 35 
 
 59 
 
 3 
 43 
 
 2 
 11 
 20 
 47 
 
 54 
 44 
 59 
 
 7 
 117 
 
 2-h 
 23i 
 75 
 38 
 25 
 
 827 
 
 I.a progress of construction. 
 
HOTELS. 
 
 The following list of Hotels is added for the informa^ 
 tion of Travellers, having been omitted in the body of 
 the work: 
 
 Principal Hotels in Syracuse. 
 
 (See description of Syracuse, page 140.) 
 
 American Temperance House, Farmers' Exchange, 
 Franklin House, Mansion House, Syracuse House. 
 
 Principal Hotels in Auburn. 
 
 (See description of Auburn, page 151.) 
 
 American Hotel, Auburn House, Western Exchange. 
 
 Principal Hotels in Geneva. 
 
 (See description of Geneva, page 161.) 
 
 Franklin House, Geneva Hotel, Railroad House, Tem- 
 perance House. 
 
 Principal Hotels in Rochester. 
 
 (See description of Rochester, page 166.) 
 
 American Hotel, Clinton Hotel, Eagle Hotel, Ex- 
 change Hotel, Mansion House, Morton House, North 
 American Hotel, Rochester House, United States Hotel. 
 
 Principal Hotels in Lockport. 
 
 (See description of Lockport, page 172.) 
 
 American Temperance House, Eagle Tavern Lock- 
 port House. 
 
336 HOTELS. 
 
 Principal Hotels in Buffalo. 
 (See description of Buffalo, page 178.) 
 American Hotel, Farmers' Hotel, Huff's Hotel, Man- 
 sion House, Pollard Temperance House, United States 
 Hotel, Western Hotel. 
 
 Principal Hotels in Montreal. 
 (See description of Montreal, page 234.) 
 Exchange Hotel, St. Paul-street j Orr's Hotel, Notre 
 .Dame-street 5 Ottawa House, McGill-street ; Rosco's 
 Hotel, St. Paul-street; Sword's Hotel. 
 
 Principal Hotels in Quebec 
 
 (See description of Quebec, page 247.) 
 
 Albion Hotel, Palace- street, Upper Town ; Payne's Ho- 
 tel, St. Anne-street, do.j Ottawa House, Lower Town ; 
 St. Lawrence Hotel, do. 
 
TO THE TRAVELING PUBLIC. 
 
 J. DISTURNELL, 
 
 DEALER IN 
 
 sa^5?^y (a^aa>a 3<^(^SQ5> 
 
 statistical Works, &c. &c., 
 
 NO. 102 BROADWAY, BETWEEN PINE AND WALL STREETS; 
 NEW-YORK; 
 Keeps a full assortment of the above articles, together 
 with a collection of ENGRAVINGS, illustrative of Ame- 
 rican Scenery — all of w^hich v^^ill be sold on reasonable 
 terms at wholesale or retail. 
 
 Citizens and Strangers are invited to call and exa- 
 mine his assortment of Maps, Guide Books, &e., before 
 leaving the city on excursions of pleasure, or travels for 
 health or business, as they can be furnished with publi- 
 cations relating to every section of the United States, Ca- 
 nada, Texas, Mexico, Guatemala, the West Indies, South 
 America, Europe, Asia, and Africa — embracing every 
 part of the Civilized World. 
 
 N. B.— The PICTURESQUE TOURIST, being a 
 Guide through the Northern and Eastern States, 
 and Canada, together with other publications of J. D.'s, 
 useful to travellers, can be obtained at most of the Book- 
 stores in the United States and Canada. 
 
 New- York, June, 1844. 
 
J. DISTURNELL, 
 
 No. 102 BROADWAY,: MEW-YORK, 
 
 HAS RECENTLY PUBLISHED 
 
 1. A New Township Map of the State of New-York ; 
 showing the boundaries of Counties and Townships; the 
 location of Cities and Villages, &c. By J. Calvin Smith. 
 Engraved on steel. Price, (Pocket Form,) $0 75 
 
 Do. on RolSers, 1 5^ 
 
 2. Gazetteer oe the State of New-York ; comprising 
 its Topography, Geology, Mineralogical Resources, Civi] 
 Divisions, Canals, Railroads, and Public Institutions, to- 
 gether with General Statistics; Accompanied by a ne^^ 
 Township Map of the State. Price, $2 0( 
 
 Do. without the Map, ■ 1 o( 
 
 3. The New -York State Guide; containing an Alphabeti 
 cal List of Counties, Towns, Cities, Villages, Post Offices, 
 &c., with Census of 1840. Price, with State Map, $1 0( 
 
 Do. without the Map, 2^ 
 
 4. The New- York Political Manual; containing the. 
 Official Election Returns for 1840-42, and the Census of 1840 
 —together with other useful information. Price,. $0 25 
 
 6. The New-York State Register for 1843-4. Edited 
 by O. L. HoUey. Price, $1 50 
 
 6. The Northern Traveller; containing the Hudson 
 River Guide, and Tour to the Springs, Lake George and 
 Canada, passing through Lake Champlain; with 2 Maps. 
 Price, $0 50 
 
 1. The Western Traveller; embracing the Canal and 
 Railroad Routes, from Albany and Troy to BufiTalo and 
 Niagara Falls. Also the Steamboat Route from Bufialo 
 to Detroit and Chicago. Price, $0 50 
 
 8. The Picturesqe Tourist; being a Guide through the 
 Northern and Eastern States and Canada. Edited by O. L. 
 Holley. With Maps and Illustrarions. Price, .... $1 50 
 
 N . B .—A liberal discount will be made to the Trade. — 
 Orders solicited for all kinds of Maps and Geographical 
 Works, and supplied on the most reasonable terms . 
 
 New -York, June, 1844. 
 
 C 310 88 
 
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