fwHENIWASAGIRL 
 ^ IN MEXICO 
 
 MERCEDES GODOY 
 
Class _Fj_%l51 
 Book. 
 
 ^iyuSo 
 
 GqpyriglrtM*- 
 
 COFIRfGHT DEPOSm 
 
WHEN I WAS A GIRL 
 IN MEXICO 
 
CHILDREN OF OTHER LANDS BOOKS 
 
 Independent Volumes With Characteristic Illus- 
 trations and Cover Designs 12 mo Cloth 
 Price of each Volume, net, 75 cts. 
 
 There are many books about the children of other coiin- 
 tries, but no other group Uke this, with each volume written 
 by one who has lived the foreign child Ufe described, and 
 learned from subsequent experience in this coxmtry how to 
 tell it in a way attractive to American children — and in fact 
 to Americans of any age. 
 
 WHEN I WAS A BOY IN CHINA 
 
 By Yan Phou Lee 
 
 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN ITALY 
 
 By Marietta Ambrosi 
 
 WHEN I WAS A BOY IN JAPAN 
 
 By Sakae Shioya 
 
 WHEN I WAS A BOY IN GREECE 
 
 By George Demetrios 
 
 WHEN I WAS A BOY IN PALESTINE 
 
 By Mousa J. Kaleel 
 
 WHEN I WAS A BOY IN BELGIUM 
 
 By Robert Jonckheere 
 
 WHEN I WAS A BOY IN RUSSIA 
 
 By Vladimir De Bogory Mokrievitcii 
 
 WHEN I WAS A BOY IN ROUMANIA 
 
 By Dr. J. S. Van Teslaar 
 
 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN HOLLAND 
 
 By Cornelia De Groot 
 
 LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO. 
 BOSTON 
 
\\Uy>L^a^ptt^ 
 
 ^a-zyCo^. 
 
WHEN I WAS A GIRL 
 IN MEXICO 
 
 BY 
 
 MERCEDES GODOY 
 
 ILLUSTRATED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS 
 
 BOSTON 
 LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO. 
 
Published, April, 19 19 
 
 Copyright, 1919, 
 By Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co. 
 
 All Rights Reserved 
 When I Was a Girl in Mexico 
 
 APR 24 1919 
 
 BERWIClt & SMITH CO. 
 
 Norwood, Mass. 
 
 U. S. A. 
 
 ©CI.A525231 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER 
 I. 
 
 My Birthplace .... 
 
 PAGE 
 9 
 
 II. 
 
 The First Years of My Life . 
 
 14 
 
 III. 
 
 Amusements During Childhood 
 
 21 
 
 IV. 
 
 Productions of Mexico . 
 
 28 
 
 V. 
 
 Parks, Drives, and Flowers 
 
 33 
 
 VI. 
 
 Sundays and Holidays 
 
 42 
 
 VII. 
 
 Holy Week, Corpus Christi, St. 
 John's Day, and Mexican In- 
 dependence Day . 
 
 48 
 
 VIII. 
 
 Christmas Time 
 
 56 
 
 IX. 
 
 The Streets in Mexico City . 
 
 61 
 
 X. 
 
 Beautiful Chapultepec . 
 
 70 
 
 XI. 
 
 The Floating Gardens and 
 ViGA Canal .... 
 
 n 
 
 XII. 
 
 By Rail in Mexico . 
 
 79 
 
 XIII. 
 
 In Guatemala, and Back to 
 Mexico 
 
 86 
 
 XIV. 
 
 Residing and Studying in Wash- 
 ington, D. C 
 
 5 
 
 94 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 XV. The Launching of Mexican 
 
 War-Ships . . . .100 
 
 XVI. The Buffalo Exposition. Pres- 
 ident McKinley's Assassina- 
 tion 104 
 
 XVII. The Second Pan-American Con- 
 ference 109 
 
 XVIII. InHabana . . . .118 
 
 XIX. The Mexican Centennial . .123 
 
 XX. Mexican Home Life. Return 
 
 to Washington . . .133 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 Mercedes Godoy .... Frontispiece ^ 
 
 FACING PAGE 
 
 The National Library . . . . . 20 ^^ 
 
 "Zocalo" or Central Square, and "Portales" 
 
 (Arcades) 30 •" 
 
 Monument of Mexican Independence . .36 
 
 " El Arbol de la Noche Trieste " (The Tree of 
 
 the Sad Night) 38 
 
 The Cathedral in Mexico City ... 46 
 
 A Street in the New Residential Section of Mex- 
 ico City 64 ' 
 
 Chapultepec Castle and Lake . . . . 72 / 
 
 The Popocatepetl 80 ^ 
 
 The Ixtaccihuatl 80 
 
 The Principal Interior Courtyard of the Hotel 
 
 Iturbide iio 
 
 San Francisco Street, Mexico City . . .128 
 
 Montezuma on his Throne . . , .132 
 
 Aztec Warriors . . , . . .132 
 
WHEN I WAS A GIRL 
 IN MEXICO 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 MY BIRTHPLACE 
 
 There in a street in Mexico City, 
 formerly called " Calle de San Angel " 
 (Angel Street), and now named " Calle Is- 
 abel la Catolica," after the renowned 
 Queen Isabella of Spain. There at No. 2, 
 which was a large stone house with the 
 usual exterior balconies and interior 
 court-yards of Mexican residences, I was 
 born. This house was half a block from 
 the National Library, the student's de- 
 light, and not far from the " Portales '^ or 
 Arcades, which are full of toys and candy- 
 stands, the children's delight. 
 
 Of course I know little about that 
 9 
 
10 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO ' 
 
 house, or how I spent my babyhood there, 
 as when I was a few weeks old we went 
 to live in San Juan de Letran Street. 
 We resided there several years. Opposite 
 to this house was a fashionable church, 
 Santa Brlgida, where many weddings and 
 christenings took place, though I was 
 baptized at the grand Cathedral. Since 
 then I have attended many marriage cer- 
 emonies in Mexican churches, and I can 
 ssly that the altars and interior are always 
 beautifully decorated with flowers arid 
 plants and the attendance is always large. 
 These ceremonies generally take place in 
 the mornings. At the christenings the 
 godfather is usually pestered by the chil- 
 dren who lustily cry after him, following 
 his carriage, and asking for their " bolo," 
 a 9 mall piece of paoney wliich it is cus- 
 tomary to give to the little urchins. ' 
 As it is the custom in Mexico, I had 
 my " nana," or nurse, though she was not 
 very young, but rather old, who took me 
 everywhere, even when accompanying 
 
MY BIB THPLA GE 11 
 
 my parents. These " nanas " are very 
 faithful and obliging, and usually take 
 great liking to the children under their 
 care. This devotion is shown vividly 
 when a child is sick, as the nurse will not 
 leave it for one moment and is ever 
 ready to attend to its wants. The love 
 they bear to the children in their care 
 continues when these children grow up, 
 and in many families you may find 
 " nanas " who keep their devotion and 
 remain for many years attached to the 
 household and to the young men or 
 women whose wants they have attended 
 to since babyhood. It is a pity that the 
 type of such kind and devoted " nanas " 
 is fast tending to disappear. 
 
 One of the defects that these " nanas " 
 have is that they are in the habit of tell- 
 ing children ghost stories, which fre- 
 quently terrify, and are apt to make the 
 little ones at times nervous and restless. 
 One of their favorite ways of intimidating 
 the children is to tell them that the 
 
12 WHEN I WAS A OIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 *' COCO " is coming. This " coco '' is 
 some imaginary being that is supposed 
 to have for its sole purpose on earth the 
 frightening and even punishing of bad 
 children. But the principal ghost story 
 that these " nanas " are very apt to tell 
 the little ones under their charge is that 
 of the " llorona " or weeping woman, who 
 is supposed to be a female who is ex- 
 piating some crime or grieving over some 
 misfortune which has befallen her and is 
 going around wailing, especially in the 
 night-time and in very dark places. The 
 story of the " llorona " is one that is very 
 popular among the lower classes in 
 Mexico ; its origin is said by some to go 
 as far back as the period when the Span- 
 iards ruled in this country, and time 
 does not seem to wipe out nor diminish 
 the popularity of the superstitious fear 
 of that wailing and weeping female ghost 
 on the part of a great number of the more 
 ignorant people and many of the children 
 in all parts of the Republic. 
 
MY BIB THPLA GE 13 
 
 Every time I went back to Mexico 
 City I used to pass by '' Calle del Angel " 
 and " Calle de San Juan de Letran/' so 
 that the house where I was born and that 
 in which I spent my babyhood are indeli- 
 bly impressed on my mind, and I shall 
 always have vivid recollections of them. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 
 THE FIRST YEARS OF MY LIFE 
 
 It is a difficult task to relate the events 
 of the first years of one's life, as in real- 
 ity one has no recollection of those first 
 years, when a tiny baby or child, but 
 knows them only from hearsay and 
 things told so many times by elders that 
 gradually they seem really remembered 
 and pictured most vividly in one's 
 mind. 
 
 We resided at that time for several 
 years in Mexico City. My brother who 
 preceded me and the one who came after 
 were both born in that city. My parents 
 often made trips to the interior of the 
 Republic and also to the United States, 
 principally to San Francisco, where my 
 mother's parents lived. I can remember 
 14 
 
THE FIRST YEARS OF MY LIFE 15 
 
 vagijely the large house where my grand- 
 parents lived and where my mother and 
 father were married. It had a pretty 
 garden with flowers, which I loved to 
 pick. I also liked to sit out there in the 
 garden with my grandfather and listen to 
 the stories that he told me. We went 
 back there in later years several times, 
 the last time being a few months before 
 the terrible earthquake and fire of 1906 
 which nearly destroyed the whole city. 
 They say it has changed very much and 
 is greatly improved, though I liked it 
 and admired it as it was before, with its 
 hilly and busy commercial streets, and 
 lovely residential sections and parks. 
 
 So it was that since a baby I have been 
 traveling frequently and I have always 
 enjoyed it, as it is most interesting and 
 instructive. The defect one acquires is 
 restlessness when remaining too long in 
 the same place or city, missing the change 
 of scenery, friends, and habits. Never- 
 theless traveling in different countries 
 
16 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 and visiting the various cities is very 
 beneficial to the young and old, for in 
 that way they become acquainted with 
 other nationalities, customs, and lan- 
 guages, and see personally many interest- 
 ing and historical places or things. 
 
 I was a very delicate baby and had in- 
 termittent fevers when about two years 
 old, so the doctor prescribed a change of 
 climate and my parents took me to 
 Toluca, a pretty little town near the capi- 
 tal. From there we went to San Antonio, 
 Texas, where my father was sent as Mex- 
 ico's representative to the Exposition at 
 that city. Of course I cannot remember 
 anything about my stay in these places, 
 but a few years later we revisited these 
 two cities. Toluca is a very clean city 
 and is high up on the mountains. The 
 climate is colder than in Mexico City. 
 All along the road from the capital the 
 scenery is very picturesque and interest- 
 ing, though not as beautiful as that of 
 Vera Cruz, which I will describe in an- 
 
THE FIRST YEARS OF MY LIFE 17 
 
 other chapter later on. The scenery of 
 Toluca, however, is well worth seeing, 
 especially for those who love nature's 
 beauties. San Antonio, Texas, I found 
 to be an attractive city. Being so near 
 Mexico it is generally full of Mexican 
 families, and we have seen several of our 
 friends while there. The only drawback 
 I found was the climate, as it seemed very 
 hot most of the time. 
 
 When I was a little girl nearly all the 
 children in Mexico, especially girls, went 
 to private schools or had teachers at 
 home, either because they considered that 
 the public schools were deficient or be- 
 cause their parents did not care to have 
 them mingle with the lower classes. 
 The girls did not pursue studies that 
 would fit them for any professional 
 career, but no doubt this has changed 
 lately, as women in Mexico, as in all 
 parts of the world, are holding more 
 positions and learning how to support 
 themselves. 
 
18 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 Since then the public schools have 
 improved and increased greatly, so 
 that larger numbers of children of the 
 well-to-do or middle classes attend 
 them. 
 
 The Mexican public schools are similar 
 to those in the United States, consisting 
 of primaries, high schools or preparatory 
 schools, and institutions to train students 
 to become teachers, and members of other 
 professions, as medicine, law, engineer- 
 ing, etc. 
 
 Here I may add that since I was a little 
 girl, the most approved methods of teach- 
 ing have been introduced and adopted, 
 and at present some of the private educa- 
 tional institutions in Mexico can afford 
 to children the same facilities that are 
 given them in other countries. Still, 
 owing to the desire of acquiring the Eng- 
 lish language and of training the children 
 along active lines and pursuits, many of 
 those who can afford to do so send their 
 shildren to the United States, especially 
 
THE FIRST YEARS OF MY LIFE 19 
 
 the boys for engineering and other scien- 
 tific studies. Families residing in the 
 States of Sonora, Sinaloa, and other 
 Western States of Mexico are apt to send 
 their children to educational institutions 
 in California and the other Pacific Coast 
 States, while those residing in other parts 
 of the Republic send them for that pur- 
 pose to New York, Massachusetts, and 
 other parts of the United States, and 
 some of them to the city of Washington. 
 In this way the English language has 
 been fostered in Mexico and children 
 nowadays are taught English instead of 
 French as in former years. 
 
 One of the distinguishing characteris- 
 tics of Mexican boys and girls is their 
 liking for literature, and from an early 
 age they show a fondness for reading 
 books by ancient and modern authors of 
 Spain, their mother country, as well as by 
 English and French writers. A great 
 many have read extensively the works of 
 American authors, some of their favoriteo 
 
20 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 being Washington Irving, Prescott, Long- 
 fellow, and Poe, and one finds a great 
 number of writers and poets, both young 
 and old, in Mexico. 
 
San Francisco Street, Mexico City. 
 The principal street, leading to the National Palace and Cathedral. 
 
 The Nation Aii Library. 
 
 Here are large collections of books and manuscripts referring to Mexi- 
 can History and many rare volumes. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 
 AMUSEMENTS DURING CHILDHOOD 
 
 My favorite amusement when I was a 
 little girl, and until I was in my teens, 
 was to play with dolls, large and small, 
 and even paper dolls. These I would 
 cut out from fashion books and maga- 
 zines, and some I had were made in 
 Mexico of stiff paper or cardboard. My 
 largest doll had lovely blond curly hair 
 and porcelain hands, of which I was very 
 proud. One day, however, while play- 
 ing with it in our yard, one of my older 
 brothers who was riding on his bicycle 
 accidentally knocked both the doll and 
 me down. This I remember grieved me 
 very much, as the dolFs head was broken 
 in many pieces, and, as most children do, 
 I cried so much that my mother had to 
 buy another new head, which to me 
 21 
 
22 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 never seemed as pretty as the old one. 
 My doll-house had a great assortment of 
 furniture, some made by the Indians in 
 Mexico. They make furniture in all 
 sizes, also large and tiny dishes out of 
 earthenware, and the prisoners make 
 quaint toy furniture of quills and wood 
 and put it together with pins. They 
 also carve figures in cocoanuts, and from 
 cherry and apricot stones they make tiny 
 baskets and monkeys ; all this is done 
 with any ordinary penknife. 
 
 Other amusements of Mexican children 
 which my brothers and I enjoyed were 
 the same that are found here in the 
 United States. We had hide-and-go- 
 seek, blind man's buff, called '* gallina 
 ciega " (blind chicken), and kite-flying in 
 the yard at home. This was for boys, 
 still sometimes girls flew kites, too. I 
 used to enjoy helping my brothers make 
 them, that is pasting the tissue-paper on 
 the frame or tying rags together to make 
 the long tail. 
 
AMUSEMENTS DURING CHILDHOOD 23 
 
 I also loved to read, though at that time 
 having but a small number of attractive 
 books in comparison with the great vari- 
 ety to be found in the United States. Of 
 course the " Arabian Nights," " Robinson 
 Crusoe," whose companion Friday is 
 called in the Spanish version ''Domingo " 
 (Sunday), and other books, too, as the 
 usual fairy tales, and stories of " Blue 
 Beard," " Cinderella," etc., were popular 
 among us Mexican children. 
 
 During rainy days I would read these 
 books or play dominoes or checkers 
 with my brothers, and on bright sunny 
 days we went with our " nanas " to the 
 parks or squares to hear the band play 
 and I would roll a hoop, or jump rope, or 
 amuse myself in some other active way. 
 Very few baby-carriages were seen at 
 these parks or on the streets, as the 
 nurses always carried the babies in their 
 arms. Servants were to be had at very 
 low wages, so a father or mother was 
 seldom seen carrying a baby. This was 
 
24 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 true even among people in moderate cir- 
 cumstances or of the middle classes, be- 
 cause they always had a nurse to attend 
 to the children. 
 
 Another game that is so popular in the 
 United States among schoolgirls, " Jack- 
 stones," is also played by Mexican chil- 
 dren, both boys and girls, but there they 
 use apricot stones instead. 
 
 A typical toy of Mexico is the 
 " titere," which is like a marionette. 
 This is a figure made of clay, its joints 
 of rags, and dressed up to represent a 
 man, woman, child, soldier, policeman, 
 in fact all kinds of people. They are 
 generally from six to ten inches high, 
 although some that are used in the real 
 " titere " theatres are quite large. These 
 " titeres " have threads attached to their 
 hands, feet, and body, and by pulling 
 these threads one can manipulate them, 
 so as to make them walk, dance, and 
 jump about. My brothers had a toy 
 theatre with scenery, and our servant 
 
AMUSEMENTS DURING GEILDUOOD 25 
 
 boy or " mozo " amused us by making 
 the " titeres " act, representing comical 
 and dramatic acts and also musical ones. 
 He would manipulate the strings from 
 above and at the same time talk or sing, 
 and the " titeres " appeared to us chil- 
 dren as real actors and dancers. This 
 would of course amuse us very much 
 and keep us quiet for hours in our play- 
 room. 
 
 Among other toys for girls, made by 
 the Indians, are large and small stoves 
 and dishes of earthenware, to imitate the 
 ones used in Mexico. They also make 
 very large and small dolls, all of rags, the 
 features embroidered to show the eyes, 
 mouth, nose, and ears. These dolls they 
 usually dress up in Indian costumes of 
 bright colors, and their hair, made out 
 of black wool, they braid and leave hang- 
 ing down their backs, as most Indian 
 girls wear it. Children like these dolls, 
 because they never break and can be 
 thrown or dropped and nothing happens 
 
26 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 to them. They are indeed a practical 
 doll, and some are very pretty and very 
 well made. 
 
 At Cuernavaca, a pretty town not far 
 from the city of Mexico, they make the 
 smallest rag-dolls in the world. Some 
 are only one-fourth of an inch in height, 
 and the wonder is that being so tiny, 
 every feature and all the different parts 
 of the body are perfect and in proportion. 
 They dress them up, and some cos- 
 tumes are very elaborate. A well-known 
 woman who makes those dolls in Cuer- 
 navaca was getting blind from the strain 
 on her eyesight, from making such very 
 small dolls. 
 
 Another tiny toy or article made by 
 Mexican Indians is a dressed-up flea. It 
 does not seem possible, but it certainly is 
 the truth, as we have several that we 
 bought in Mexico. They have to be seen 
 through a magnifying-glass to appreciate 
 the work and patience it must take to 
 prepare them. The dead fleas stand in 
 
AMUSEMENTS DURING CHILDHOOD 27 
 
 tiny paper boxes, and are each dressed in 
 various colors and styles. 
 
 Even when I was a little girl I was 
 fond of going to the theatre, but the cir- 
 cus did not attract my attention as it did 
 that of other children. I remember that 
 I liked to go to the " Zarzuelas " or 
 Spanish musical comedies, some of them 
 being one-act plays, given at " tandas," 
 which are performances that last about 
 one hour, so that three or four can be 
 given in one afternoon or evening. The 
 Spanish music, which is very tuneful and 
 catchy and is different from any other, 
 has become very popular in Mexico. I 
 must add that in my country there are 
 very good musical composers, whom I 
 have already referred to. 
 
 The children there like to sing the 
 popular tunes or songs, some of which 
 like '' Los Enanos " (The Dwarfs), " El 
 Butaquito " (The Little Stool) and others 
 are by unknown authors, but very 
 popular with all classes. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 
 PRODUCTIONS OF MEXICO 
 
 Owing to the diversity of climates in 
 various portions of the Republic, espe- 
 cially near the capital, there is a very 
 large assortment of fruits and vegetables 
 to be found for sale in the markets and 
 fruit-stands at the capital. Some of these 
 are little known in the United States, 
 and when sold here bring high prices. I 
 refer particularly to the fruits of tropical 
 climates, which are so well liked by chil- 
 dren in Mexico, such as the " tuna " 
 (prickly pear), the " zapote " of various 
 kinds, the " mamey " and the'" aguacate " 
 or alligator pear, so well known to foreign- 
 ers. There is also a great variety of 
 fruits from cold climates, like those 
 found in the United States. The straw- 
 28 
 
PRODUCTIONS OF MEXICO 29 
 
 berries are very large in size and very 
 sweet. 
 
 On account of these varying climates, 
 with which few countries are gifted, 
 Mexico's agricultural productions are 
 very numerous, and the same is true of 
 minerals. 
 
 When I was a little girl, I remember 
 very well that every one spoke of the 
 great riches in minerals, especially gold 
 and silver. Since then they have dis- 
 covered and exploited, as is well known, 
 numerous oil-wells which have given 
 fabulous returns, especially around the 
 districts of >,Tampico. Although I have 
 never visited this port, still I have heard 
 a great deal of talk about it, as it is my 
 father's birthplace. 
 
 Among the productive industries in 
 the central plateau where the city of 
 Mexico is situated is the manufacture 
 of " pulque," a national beverage made 
 from the Mexican agave or prickly-pear 
 plant. It is largely sold in the capital 
 
30 WEEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 and neighboring districts, and though it 
 is highly intoxicating and consequently 
 injurious, it is considered to have some 
 medicinal properties, and therefore is used 
 in very moderate quantities by some of 
 the middle classes. Still, in the main it 
 is as harmful as is whiskey in the United 
 States, but it is said that large quantities 
 of it have to be taken before a person is 
 visibly affected by drinking it. 
 
 There are some cooling drinks of which 
 both the children and adults are fond, 
 and which are somewhat peculiar to the 
 country, such as " orchata," made from 
 the seeds of the canteloupe, and ** chia," 
 made from some typical seed of Mexico. 
 These drinks are usually sold in stands 
 to be found in the " Portales " in the 
 Central Square, or "Zocalo," and along 
 some thoroughfares, especially whenever 
 some public festivity is to be held. 
 
 Although I have spoken already of the 
 small industries, such as feather, silver, 
 marble, wax, and rag articles made by 
 
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 ^ 
 
 WSm.-. a^g^ 
 
 ^ehbh^^ 
 
 - -^Ir^^--- 
 
 ^^^i^^J 
 
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 ij' ir'ir"' . . ^ 
 
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 ^~^5ffiBa 
 
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 T^ 
 
 'm^^' 
 
 & 
 
 
 
 
 W^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 •^ '^^fe^^W* 
 
 *' ZocALO " OR Central Square, and "Portales" (Arcades). 
 
 The centre of Mexico City from which all tramways start, and where 
 
 the National Palace and Cathedral are situated. 
 
 A Street in the Xew Residential Section of Mexico City. 
 
 One of the leading streets in Colonia Juarez, which is among the recently 
 huilt sections of the capital of Mexico. 
 
rnODUGTIONS OF MEXICO 31 
 
 the Indians and which prove so attract- 
 ive to tourists, I must again make refer- 
 ence to the great merit and variety of the 
 feather and silver work, some of which 
 is exceedingly artistic and unique. Of 
 course the smaller articles in the form of 
 toys were those that attracted most the 
 attention of the children, but as I grew 
 up I came to appreciate the artistic value 
 of the more pretentious and highly 
 wrought pieces in these branches of in- 
 dustry. Not only are birds and animals 
 represented by means of feathers artistic- 
 ally and realistically pasted and arranged 
 on cards and plaques, but the Indian 
 artists elaborate landscapes and views of 
 buildings, all made up of feathers of dif- 
 ferent hues and colors, in this way mak- 
 ing striking and artistic pictures, which 
 command good prices. 
 
 As far as the filigree or silver work is 
 concerned, I do not think there is any 
 better or more artistic to be found, ex- 
 cepting in Italy, there being a striking 
 
32 WHEN I WAS A QIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 similarity between some of the Mexican 
 and some of the Italian silver filigree 
 work. 
 
 Other articles made by the Indian 
 women are all kinds of hand embroidery 
 and drawn-work on linen, silk, and cot- 
 ton. Some of this work is most exquisite 
 and fine, made up in handkerchiefs, 
 scarfs, collars, dresses, etc. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 
 PARKS, DRIVES, AND FLOWERS 
 
 The principal park in the center of 
 Mexico City is the " Alameda,'' extend- 
 ing several blocks in length and width. 
 It is always green, full of flowers and 
 trees, and has various fountains, the cen- 
 tral one being very large and artistic. 
 It was named " Alameda " because it 
 originally consisted mostly of a large 
 group of " alamos " or elm-trees. 
 
 There the children play, run, and 
 amuse themselves, going with their 
 " nanas '' or nurses. It is always full of 
 little ones, and every day my brothers 
 and I went there to play with other little 
 friends, being well taken care of by our 
 "nanas.'' We used to love to buy 
 balloons and play ball, jump, and run. 
 
 A few blocks away from the Alameda 
 33 
 
34 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 the beautiful drive " Paseo de la Re- 
 forma " begins, which leads to Chapul- 
 tepec. For quite a number of blocks 
 there are houses on either side of that 
 driveway; some of the very wealthy 
 families reside in splendid modern houses, 
 almost palaces. The driveway is edged 
 on both sides with trees and lovely 
 flower-gardens, an automobile drive and 
 bridle-path extending all the way to 
 Chapultepec. 
 
 At the beginning of the Paseo de la 
 Reforma is a very large bronze statue 
 of Charles IV of Spain, which is con- 
 sidered a splendid work of art, the 
 sculptor being a Mexican, Manuel Tolsa. 
 Along the drive at intervals are several 
 artistic and interesting monuments com- 
 memorative of important epochs of the 
 history of Mexico. 
 
 The first one is that of Columbus on 
 one of the principal circles. The great 
 navigator appears standing in an impos- 
 ing attitude, and around the lower 
 
PARKS, DRIVE Sy AND FLOWERS 35 
 
 pedestal of the monument are some of 
 the men who aided him in his great 
 enterprise. The second monument, also 
 in the center of a circle, is that of 
 Cuauhtemoc. He was the last Aztec 
 ruler who struggled courageously against 
 the Spanish conquerors. It is said that 
 when he was being tortured with hot 
 irons at his feet, to force him to say 
 where the treasures were concealed, one 
 of his companions who also was being 
 tortured began to complain most pit- 
 eously. Cuauhtemoc answering him 
 bravely said, ** Do you think that I am 
 in a bed of roses ? " 
 
 Nearing Chapultepec is the most im- 
 posing and artistic monument, which 
 was unveiled during the Centennial 
 celebrations in 1910. It is the monu- 
 ment of Independence, the design con- 
 sisting of statues of Mexican heroes, with 
 allegorical figures surrounding the base, 
 while on the top of this high column is a 
 huge Angel of Peace, covered with very 
 
36 WEEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 
 
 fine gilt, which can be seen at a great 
 distance. Another statue dedicated dur- 
 ing these celebrations is at the Alameda, 
 erected in memory of the great President 
 Benito Juarez. The last three monu- 
 ments and statues were made by different 
 well-known Mexican sculptors, and are 
 all of very original and artistic design. 
 
 I may add that also along the Paseo de 
 la Reforma on either side are small 
 statues, some of bronze, stone, or marble, 
 placed on pedestals and representing 
 some of the heroes of Mexican independ- 
 ence. They were erected by the govern- 
 ments of the States of the Republic, each 
 of them having donated two of such 
 statues. 
 
 The flower market "Mercado de 
 Flores" is located at one end of the 
 "Zocalo" or Central Square where the 
 National Palace, Cathedral, and other 
 public buildings are situated. It is 
 always full of flowers in the mornings, 
 but by afternoon they are mostly sold. 
 
m\ 
 
 Monument of Mexican Independence. 
 
 This magnificent monument was dedicated in Mexico City during the 
 Centennial festivities in 1910. 
 
PARKS, DRIVES, AND FLOWERS 37 
 
 These iflowers are nearly all made up by 
 the sellers into artistic shapes, as hearts, 
 stars, moons, baskets, and also wreaths 
 and crosses for the dead. These sellers 
 know immediately who are foreigners 
 and ask them very high prices, but if 
 one offers them half or less in an insistent 
 manner, they finally consent. Flowers 
 are wonderfully beautiful, bountiful, and 
 very cheap, if you know how to bargain 
 with these venders. 
 
 On saints' days, commemorated by the 
 church, especially on those of popular- 
 named saints, and on All Souls' Day, the 
 flower market is crowded and soon all 
 the flowers are sold. 
 
 The " portales " or arcades on the other 
 side of the Zocalo are, as I said before, 
 full of stands with fruit, cakes, candies, 
 candied fruit, specialties of the country, 
 and all kinds of toys, mostly cheap ones. 
 All of us children used to love to go to 
 these portales and buy toys of various 
 kinds. 
 
38 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 The suburbs are interesting to visit, as 
 they are very typical. The houses gen- 
 erally are surrounded by gardens, or are 
 of the old Spanish architecture with 
 interior court-yards and iron-barred win- 
 dows. Some are very large and hand- 
 some and are like the country homes of 
 many people living in the city. They 
 go to the suburbs to spend several months 
 during the year. Other people live there 
 all the time, and there are many less pre- 
 tentious houses, and still some very small 
 ones of the lower classes or Indians. 
 
 Among the suburbs of Mexico City 
 are Mixcoac, Tacubaya, Tacuba, and San 
 Angel. At Tacuba stands the historic 
 " Arbol de la Noche Triste '^ (Tree of the 
 Sad Night), where it is said that Cortes 
 wept on the night he had to leave Mexico 
 City, after being driven away with great 
 slaughter by the Aztecs. The tree is sur- 
 rounded by an iron fence and has an ap- 
 propriate inscription. 
 
 At San Angel there is a well-known 
 
El Arbol de la No cue Triste. 
 
 (The Tree of the Sad Night.) 
 
 It is supposed that under this tree the Spanish Conqueror Hernan 
 Cortes wept after his withdrawal from Mexico City. 
 
FAIiKSy DIUVES, AND FLO WEES 39 
 
 club or inn, " San Angel Inn," where 
 many go to dine and spend many pleas- 
 ant hours. Once I went there to a large 
 luncheon party and afterwards we danced 
 until late that evening. We also walked 
 around the lovely garden of this club 
 and went sight-seeing around the town. 
 
 The Peiion is a near-by resort or suburb 
 and is very picturesque. There is a hotel 
 and bathing establishment there, which 
 at times is very well patronized, not only 
 by the residents of Mexico City but by 
 foreigners. The springs at this place are 
 noted for their medicinal qualities. 
 
 Another important and interesting 
 suburb is Guadalupe. The Virgin of 
 Guadalupe is the patron saint of Mexico. 
 There is a well-known legend about her 
 apparition. It is said that she appeared 
 to an Indian, Juan Diego, who terribly 
 frightened ran to tell it to the bishop, who 
 of course did not believe him. The In- 
 dian then returned for the second time to 
 the same spot and the Virgin appeared 
 
40 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 again, and told him that this time the 
 bishop would believe him. Her imprint 
 was made on his cloak or " ayate." The 
 bishop was then convinced, and as Juan 
 Diego told him that the Virgin wanted a 
 church erected on the spot where she ap- 
 peared, a beautiful shrine was built, 
 which now has been enlarged and is one 
 of the best churches in the Republic. 
 Its altar railings are of solid silver and it 
 contains many other costly ornaments. 
 
 Near this church is a well, the water of 
 which is said to cure some diseases, and 
 many people, mostly Indians, fill jars and 
 bottles which they take home to use as a 
 remedy. On a hill there is a small house, 
 the walls of which are all covered with 
 pieces of broken glass, of all colors, 
 shapes, and sizes, making it look very 
 quaint. On top of the hill is a cemetery 
 where many of Mexico's illustrious men 
 have been buried. Below in the square 
 near the church may be seen many In- 
 dian women making and selling tiny 
 
PARES, DRIVESy AND FLOWERS 41 
 
 " tortillas " or cakes, made of ground 
 fresh corn, which they grind in a 
 " metate " made of stone with three stone 
 supports and having a handle likewise 
 made of stone. We children used to love 
 to buy and eat the tortillas while still 
 warm. 
 
 Guadalupe is seldom omitted by the 
 sight-seers as its legend and church are 
 well known all over the country, and for 
 this reason it is greatly visited by people 
 of all classes and nationalities. I have 
 several medals with the image of the Vir- 
 gin of Guadalupe as well as souvenirs 
 and photographs of the various places of 
 interest, all these being very much sought 
 by the sight-seers or tourists. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 
 SUNDAYS AND HOLIDAYS 
 
 Sundays and holidays are very lively 
 and enjoyable in Mexico. They are the 
 days of amusement and recreation for all 
 classes. 
 
 In the city of Mexico at the Alameda, 
 the park I mentioned in the preceding 
 chapter, where so many children are to 
 be seen at play, is also crowded by elder 
 people on these days. 
 
 A military band plays in the morning 
 until noon, and people promenade up 
 and down along the principal pathway. 
 This is covered with an awning to keep 
 off the sun, and chairs are placed on 
 either side, being obtained by paying a 
 small amount. Those more fortunate 
 ones who have automobiles or carriages 
 4^ 
 
S UNDA YS AND HO LID A YS 43 
 
 drive up and down San Francisco Street 
 a regular parade, upon returning from 
 the Paseo and Chapultepec. The women 
 wear expensive and elaborate gowns and 
 hats, a great many of which are imported 
 from Europe, showing them off in this 
 slow parade. Only three rows of ve- 
 hicles can pass, as this is not one of the 
 wide streets of Mexico City. 
 
 In Chapultepec crowds are seen, morn- 
 ing and afternoon, driving, walking, or 
 sitting on the benches along the side- 
 walk, listening to the lively music, as at 
 each end there is generally a band play- 
 ing. The afternoon crowds are naturally 
 the larger. One always meets many 
 friends, in fact those who live in that 
 city permanently are kept busy bowing 
 to their numerous acquaintances. 
 
 Carriages are becoming scarce, for 
 here, as in all countries of the world, the 
 automobiles are taking their place ; but 
 when they were still numerous it was 
 said that the horses in Mexico City were 
 
U WREN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 indeed among the best and most splendid- 
 looking to be seen in any of the impor- 
 tant cities of the world. 
 
 The lake situated in Chapultepec is like- 
 wise full of pleasure-seekers in boats and 
 canoes, more so on Sundays and holidays. 
 Once we got up a party of quite a number 
 of girls and boys and went to this lake 
 to row very early in the morning at day- 
 break, as the sun is very hot and burns 
 greatly later on. Even then after rowing 
 for several hours, we became sunburnt 
 and heated. One feels it the more per- 
 haps, because, strange to say, the shady 
 sides of the streets or drives are quite 
 cool, sometimes even cold. So in winter 
 if one is chilly the best way to get nice 
 and warm is to stand or sit in the sun for 
 some time, if the house has no furnace 
 or fireplaces, which few houses or build- 
 ings have, as they are seldom needed. 
 The winters are not severe as in the 
 northern part of the Republic ; it almost 
 never snows, though once it did and this 
 
SUNDAYS AND HOLIDAYS 45 
 
 created a great sensation and excitement 
 among the population, especially those 
 who never in their lives had seen it snow. 
 It was only a slight snowfall and did not 
 remain on the ground, but soon melted 
 away; nevertheless it frightened many 
 Indians. 
 
 The holidays commemorating the dif- 
 ferent saints are not legal holidays, so 
 that public oflSces and stores remain open 
 on such occasions ; still the churches ob- 
 serve them, and also many families and 
 even some business houses. Some of the 
 principal holidays are those of St. Joseph, 
 St. Francis, Virgin of Guadalupe, and the 
 Immaculate Conception. Every one cele- 
 brates his saint's day instead of his birth- 
 day, and as these days are always well 
 known by friends, it is the custom to 
 send presents and flowers at such times, 
 and we children received toys and other 
 gifts. 
 
 Each city district has its patron saint, 
 for whom the church in that locality is 
 
46 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXIGO 
 
 usually named. The day of this saint is 
 celebrated by illuminating the streets and 
 giving open-air concerts in the parks of 
 that district, and stands are also erected 
 on the streets where sweetmeats, cakes, 
 fruit, and toys are sold. 
 
 The principal and largest church in 
 Mexico City is the Cathedral, situated, as 
 I said before, on one side of the " Zocalo " 
 or Central Square. It is a very hand- 
 some and costly one, and has two very 
 high towers and a cupola in the center, 
 and was built several hundred years ago 
 in the time of the Spaniards, but since 
 then has been enlarged. It contains 
 many altars and is divided into several 
 sections in the interior. Of course on 
 Sundays and holidays it holds more peo- 
 ple than any other, being the largest and 
 most important. Palm Sunday, which is 
 well known, is the one preceding Easter, 
 is duly solemnized in Mexico City, and 
 the number of palms that on that day 
 are blessed at the leading churches, 
 
CD 
 
 § I 
 
 I = 
 5 2 
 
 0) 
 
SUNDAYS AND HOLIDAYS 47 
 
 especially at the Cathedral, is very great 
 indeed. 
 
 Each child generally buys a palm and 
 carries it to church on that day, and 
 many children bring their palms home 
 afterwards, where they fasten them to 
 some balcony or window in the house, as 
 the palm is supposed by some to bring 
 good luck to the spot where it may be 
 placed. Some of the palms are very ar- 
 tistically woven and braided in various 
 designs, the Indians showing a great deal 
 of skill in preparing highly ornamented 
 palms for sale on the streets on Palm 
 Sunday. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 
 HOLY WEEK, CORPUS CHRISTI, ST. JOHN's 
 DAY, AND MEXICAN INDEPENDENCE DAY 
 
 The church processions around the 
 streets of the city during Holy Week 
 which are held in some of the Latin- 
 American countries were abandoned 
 many years ago in Mexico, so I have 
 never seen any there, but I did see them 
 in Guatemala. Nevertheless that week 
 is a very busy one in all parts of Mexico 
 for Catholic church-goers. Thursday is 
 the day to visit the altars at the different 
 churches. These are beautifully orna- 
 mented with flowers and plants and 
 lighted by hundreds of candles and elec- 
 tric lights. As flowers are so cheap and 
 bountiful there, it is easy to secure great 
 quantities of them. Thousands of people 
 are seen going in and out of these 
 48 
 
HOLY WEEKy INDEPENDENCE DAY 49 
 
 churches all day long, and in reality 
 some of the altars or temples are so 
 artistically and prettily arranged that 
 they are wondrously beautiful. 
 
 Good Friday is a solemn day ; in 
 former years no carriages or any kind of 
 vehicles were allowed on the streets. 
 This is not the case at present, still even 
 now very few persons will play the piano 
 or go to the theatre or to a party on this 
 day. 
 
 On Holy Saturday in the morning at 
 ten o^clock the burning of " Judas " takes 
 place. This custom is observed a great 
 deal, and more so in Mexico City than 
 elsewhere. Toys made of cardboard rep- 
 resenting men and animals, and having 
 firecrackers fastened to them, are sold in 
 great quantities to children, who suspend 
 these figures in the court-yards or corri- 
 dors of their homes. At the stroke of 
 ten, when the church-bells are heard, 
 the children light and burn them. In 
 some streets the laboring classes hang up 
 
50 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 large figures, sometimes even six or seven 
 feet high, made of straw or rags and 
 dressed to represent men. These also 
 contain firecrackers and have fireworks 
 attached to them. It is needless to say 
 that there is a deafening noise when the 
 burning of " Judas " occurs, something 
 which we when children used so much to 
 enjoy seeing and hearing. This well- 
 known custom of burning Judas is sup- 
 posed to be done as a reminder and con- 
 demnation of the betrayal of Our Lord 
 the Saviour by Judas, an apostle and one 
 of His companions. 
 
 Easter is gay, and all the drives and 
 streets are crowded with pleasure-seekers, 
 also all the theatres and places of amuse- 
 ments. 
 
 " Corpus Day " is another festivity in 
 which we young people used to take 
 much interest. The religious ceremonies 
 on that day are elaborate ; the parks and 
 drives, as on other holidays, are full of 
 people, promenading and enjoying them- 
 
HOLY WEEK, INDEPENDENCE DAY 51 
 
 selves, while everywhere toy-sellers are 
 seen, and more than ever fruit-venders 
 are plying their trade. On that day 
 little " huacales " are sold. These are 
 little boxes or crates made out of pieces 
 of sticks, leaves, and greens, filled with 
 fruits of the season. These " huacales " 
 are sometimes quite expensive, when 
 they contain choice fruits, but usually 
 the majority are cheap and a child can 
 with a few cents buy his *' huacal." 
 
 " Dia de Muertos " (All Souls' Day) is 
 greatly observed in Mexico City by per- 
 sons visiting the cemeteries and decorat- 
 ing the graves of departed relatives or 
 friends with beautiful wreaths and flow- 
 ers. The resting-places of the dead are 
 crowded, all the tramways that lead to 
 the different cemeteries are full of passen- 
 gers all day long, coming and going. 
 During the day preceding and the day 
 after, as well as " Dia de Muertos," booths 
 are erected, sometimes near the Zocalo or 
 Alameda, where peculiar toys and sweet- 
 
52 WHEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 
 
 meats are sold in shapes of skulls, tombs, 
 etc., all of funereal aspect, but which 
 strange to say do not frighten the chil- 
 dren, who buy these queer toys and take 
 home to play with them. A bread is also 
 sold called " pan de muerto '* (dead 
 man's bread), made into these weird 
 shapes. 
 
 At every theatre the drama, ** Don 
 Juan Tenorio," is given for a few days 
 around All Souls' Day and also on that 
 particular day. The play is in verse and 
 written by Zorrilla, a well-known Span- 
 ish author. It is a weird and allegorical 
 play, describing a young man whose great 
 reputation for his numerous successful 
 love affairs and duels was known every- 
 where. Suddenly he falls really in love 
 with Dona Ines. This girl is sent to a 
 convent, to become a nun, by her father, 
 so that Don Juan cannot pursue her, but 
 the insistent lover manages to send her 
 letters full of his great devotion and 
 finally carries her off, even though a nun. 
 
HOLY WEEK, INDEPENDENCE DAY 53 
 
 to a castle by the sea. He has duels 
 with her father, brother, and others, kill- 
 ing them all, and from grief Doiia Ines 
 dies. He visits her tomb, and there 
 while praying for her and God's forgive- 
 ness, the ghosts of all those he killed ap- 
 pear and demand his condemnation. 
 The spirit of Dona Ines prays for his par- 
 don and they are reunited finally in 
 heaven and Paradise. The verses are 
 beautiful in sweetness and originality. 
 This play is given every year in nearly 
 every Latin-American country and Spain 
 during " Dia de Muertos," so that it is 
 considered one of the most popular and 
 well-known plays in Spanish-speaking 
 cities. Perhaps ''Don Juan Tenorio'' 
 has been given more than any other play 
 in the world. In these countries the 
 name " Tenorio " is greatly used, being 
 often applied to the men who have many 
 love affairs. 
 
 Our greatest national holiday is the 
 Sixteenth of September, Mexico's Inde- 
 
54 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 pendence Day, our " Fourth of July/' It 
 is a most eventful and greatly celebrated 
 day. On the fifteenth, at eleven o'clock 
 at night, which is supposed to begin that 
 joyous celebration, the President, who is 
 at the National Palace, generally giving a 
 grand reception, appears at the stroke of 
 eleven and rings the liberty bell and ex- 
 claims : " Viva Mexico 1 " (Long Live 
 Mexico I ). At that moment cannons, 
 whistles, bells, clapping, and shouts are 
 heard on all sides, and the military bands 
 play the National Anthem. All the 
 public buildings, the Cathedral, and the 
 streets around the Zocalo are also sud- 
 denly illuminated by thousands of elec- 
 tric lights in green, white, and red, our 
 national colors. 
 
 This large square and the streets sur- 
 rounding it are crowded to their full 
 capacity, the people's voices and applause 
 thrill the air with excitement and en- 
 thusiasm, showing their great love for 
 their country and true patriotism. On 
 
HOLY WEEK, INDEPENDENCE DAY 55 
 
 the morning of the sixteenth a grand 
 parade takes place, lasting several hours ; 
 the infantry, cavalry, artillery, and our 
 famous " Rurales " take part and are re- 
 viewed by the President from the Na- 
 tional Palace balconies. 
 
 Our frequent trips to Mexico were gen- 
 erally around this month, which was my 
 favorite on account of being able to wit- 
 ness this enthusiastic celebration. I may 
 say that I have seen it several times from 
 the balconies of the National Palace. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 
 CHKISTMAS TIME 
 
 The Christmas tree, the children's de- 
 light in the United States, is sometimes 
 used in Mexico, but the " nacimiento," 
 or birth of Christ, is the typical Christmas 
 amusement for the Mexican children. 
 
 The figures of the child Jesus, the 
 three Kings, St. Joseph, the Virgin, shep- 
 herds, and animals are made by the In- 
 dians in clay or wax, painted in brilliant 
 colors. These are placed on a table or 
 platform where a representation of the 
 stable at Bethlehem is arranged, with 
 moss and green to simulate hills, trees, 
 and roads, while by using mirrors, lakes 
 or ponds are shown. Scattered here and 
 there are tiny houses, huts, and the shep- 
 herds and animals, the whole being il- 
 luminated with candles or electric lights. 
 56 
 
CHRISTMAS TIME 67 
 
 Some of these " nacimientos " are very 
 artistic and elaborate, and are really 
 worth seeing. 
 
 The " posadas " are evening parties 
 given for a period of nine days at dif- 
 ferent friends' houses, the last being on 
 Christmas day. When the invited guests 
 meet at the house where the " posada " is 
 held, they go in a procession accompanied 
 with music, singing and carrying the 
 child Jesus, as if they were asking for 
 posada or lodging for it. Another group 
 is stationed at one of the parlors and be- 
 hind closed doors. They also sing some 
 hymns and after a time the door is 
 opened, and those seeking the posada are 
 admitted. After this there is dancing 
 and supper is served. A tray is also 
 passed around with pretty souvenirs 
 filled with candies for each guest, this 
 being a feature of the " posada." Some- 
 times a " piiiata " is broken. This is an 
 earthen jar decorated with tissue-paper in 
 all colors and shapes and filled with 
 
58 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 candies, nuts, and all kinds of sweet- 
 meats. Each person or child in turn is 
 blindfolded and with a stick tries to 
 break this ** pinata," but many times 
 they miss it, or lose their way and go in 
 another direction, so the rest have to run 
 and get out of their way, or surely they 
 would get a good hit on their head or 
 body. When finally some one breaks the 
 piiiata, all rush and shout and try to get 
 most of the candies and other things, 
 these being quickly picked up from the 
 floor by all participants. This amuse- 
 ment is nearly always used in all chil- 
 dren's parties and I remember that I 
 enjoyed it very much for its good fun. 
 
 Perhaps it is unnecessary for me to say 
 that on Christmas eve the churches are 
 crowded with people who go to the mid- 
 night mass, as is the case among the 
 Catholics in the United States. In some 
 instances there is a family gathering at 
 the homes of those who have been pres- 
 ent at the midnight mass, but of course 
 
CHRISTMAS TIME 59 
 
 while a child I had to forego this on ac- 
 count of the lateness of the hour when it 
 was given. Furthermore these reunions 
 are usually only for older persons. 
 
 Presents are given on New Year's Day 
 to the grown-up persons and toys and 
 other gifts to the children on Kings' 
 Day, January sixth. The Kings are the 
 Mexican Santa Claus and are supposed to 
 bring toys to the little ones. On that 
 day a party is given for children, a large 
 cake being placed on the table, in the 
 center of all the other sweetmeats. This 
 special cake contains a bean, and if a 
 girl gets it she is the queen and selects 
 a king from among the boys present, 
 while if, on the other hand, the bean 
 falls to a boy, he chooses the queen, and 
 I was that lucky person at one of these 
 parties that I attended. The king is 
 supposed to give a few days later a party 
 or picnic to all those who had attended, 
 so of course we children loved this party, 
 as in reality it meant two parties. 
 
60 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 Whenever we were in the United States 
 we had oar Christmas tree and Santa 
 Glaus would always fill our stockings, so I 
 know both Christmas celebrations, Mexi- 
 can and American, and like them both 
 immensely. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 
 THE STREETS IN MEXICO CITY 
 
 The business section of Mexico City is 
 in the old part of the town and most of 
 the streets are somewhat narrow, al- 
 though the avenues of Cinco de Mayo 
 and Avenida Juarez and others are 
 unusually wide. 
 
 Many old buildings dating back to the 
 time of the Spaniards still exist, but a 
 great many important and modern ones 
 have been built lately. During the Cen- 
 tennial celebrations in 1910, several build- 
 ings, hospitals, asylums, etc., were opened. 
 The new Post Ofifice is a very handsome 
 one, the interior being mostly of marble, 
 and was built in recent years, and the 
 National Theatre will be one of the best 
 and most costly in America. 
 
 The National Museum in the city of 
 Mexico is well worth seeing, and I re- 
 61 
 
62 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 member that when a little girl I visited 
 it several times and saw many other chil- 
 dren there, too. A great many relics 
 and antiquities are to be seen there and 
 are most interesting, dating back hun- 
 dreds of years to the time of the Aztecs, 
 before the Conquest of Mexico by Her- 
 nan Cortes, also some from during the 
 Spanish dominion. 
 
 The Aztec Calendar is well known all 
 over the Republic. It is a large round 
 stone with carvings of Aztec designs, and 
 is supposed to be the calendar of those 
 ancient times. Numerous other carved 
 stones and antiquities are also seen there. 
 Another notable relic is what is known 
 as the Sacrificial Stone, being a huge 
 round and weighty slab with carvings on 
 the upper portion and on the sides, and 
 with a round cavity on top where it was 
 said that the heart of the victim to be, 
 sacrificed was cut out of the body, the/ 
 blood being allowed to flow along a duct 
 carved out in the stone. We children 
 
TEE STREETS IN MEXICO CITY 63 
 
 used to look at that stone with fright and 
 horror. What attracted most the atten- 
 tion of us young people were the toys 
 used by the Aztec children and which 
 are also on exhibition in the National 
 Museum. 
 
 The Indians are descendants of the 
 Aztecs and in these modern times are 
 very skilful in carving, and making 
 curiosities of all kinds. 
 
 Perhaps it may not be out of place to 
 say that there is a very good Academy 
 of Fine Arts in Mexico City. It is 
 called the San Carlos National Academy. 
 I visited it several times when I was a 
 little girl and although at that time I 
 could not appreciate the meritorious 
 works of art, mostly paintings, that it 
 contains, I always was particularly 
 pleased to look at the many fine pictures 
 to be seen at that institution, especially 
 those referring to Mexican historical 
 events. 
 
 The new section of " colonias," the 
 
64 WHEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 
 
 residential part of the city, is very at- 
 tractive. It has small parks or circles at 
 intervals and trees all along the side- 
 walks. The houses are generally sur- 
 rounded by gardens and many are en- 
 closed by high iron fences. The archi- 
 tecture is very modern and the houses 
 have all the comforts necessary in the 
 interior. Some of these houses are beau- 
 tiful and large, others smaller but all in 
 quaint, artistic, and original styles. 
 
 We lived at Avenida Prim, " Colonia 
 Juarez,'' for several months in 1903, 
 coming from Guatemala to visit our 
 native land. The house was very at- 
 tractive in the style of a bungalow and 
 had a lovely garden with vines and 
 flowers, also a stable in the rear, all en- 
 closed by a high elaborate iron fence. It 
 was prettily and comfortably furnished 
 and the owners even rented to us their 
 horses and carriage. Nearly every after- 
 noon I took a drive with my parents, 
 brothers, or little sister, and in the morn- 
 
THE STREETS IN MEXICO CITY 65 
 
 ings took lessons in Spanish, English, 
 and French, and on the piano, with pri- 
 vate teachers at home. After we left 
 this house it was taken by the Spanish 
 Minister. 
 
 Most of the streets in " Colonia Juarez " 
 have names of European cities and those 
 of " Colonia Roma " adjoining the former, 
 the names of leading cities and states of 
 the Republic. In the old part of the 
 city some streets have odd and queer 
 names, such as " Las Ratas " (The Rats) ; 
 '* El Indio Triste " (The Sad Indian) ; 
 " El Zapo " (The Frog) ; others had names 
 of popular heroes and events of Mexican 
 history, these being Avenida Juarez, 
 after the great President Benito Juarez, 
 which is on one side of the Alameda ; 
 Avenida Cinco de Mayo, which com- 
 memorates a battle won by the Mexi- 
 cans ; Avenida de la Independencia 
 (Avenue of Independence), and those of 
 illustrious men, as Guerrero, Morelos, 
 and many others. 
 
66 WHEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 
 
 The legend connected with the street 
 " Don Juan Manuel " is quite peculiar. 
 It seems that during the administration 
 of one of the Viceroys, several murders 
 were committed in that street, and what 
 seemed strange was that the bloody deeds 
 should take place near midnight. Many 
 people were suspected, and as at that 
 time the police was not of the best, and 
 several persons were murdered before the 
 guilty one was discovered. At last the 
 crimes were proved to be the deeds of a 
 very rich though somewhat eccentric 
 man, popularly known as Don Juan 
 Manuel, who lived in that street. It 
 seems that he would stay on the sidewalk 
 near his house, and when a passer-by 
 would ask him the time, he would tell 
 the exact hour, adding, ** You are for- 
 tunate to know the hour when you are 
 to die," and thereupon stab him to death. 
 This legend of Don Juan Manuel was 
 quite well known by many children, and 
 some of the younger ones were even 
 
THE STREETS IN MEXICO CITY 67 
 
 afraid to pass through Don Juan Manuel 
 Street. 
 
 The avenues in time of the Aztecs were 
 canals and had bridges from one side of 
 the street to the other. Where these 
 bridges existed the streets were called 
 until recently " Puente (bridge) de San 
 Francisco " ; " Puente (bridge) de Al- 
 varado," etc. At the latter it is said that 
 Pedro de Alvarado, who was second in 
 command to Hernan Cortes, during the 
 conquest, leaped by means of his lance 
 from one side of the canal to the other 
 and thus escaped from the threatening 
 Aztecs. Of course this street seems really 
 too wide to permit a feat of that kind, 
 still the legend is one of the most popular 
 and best known. 
 
 Lately a great many of the names of 
 the streets have been changed, so no 
 doubt whenever I go back there, I shall 
 find many new names and will have to 
 get acquainted with them in order not to 
 get lost. In some respects it must be a 
 
68 WEEN I WAS A GIEL IN MEXICO 
 
 great advantage over the old names, as 
 formerly, in point of fact, many per- 
 sons could not locate some streets, because 
 in some parts of the city (the old section) 
 every block had a different name. 
 
 The city has a good tramway system, 
 most of the lines starting from the large 
 Central Square or Zocalo. The electric 
 street-cars that go to the suburbs are of 
 two kinds, first and second class, the 
 latter being cheaper and only patronized 
 by the poorer classes. Those cars are 
 quite crowded in the mornings, at noon, 
 and in the evenings on week days, and 
 they are jammed on holidays and Sun- 
 days. 
 
 Hacks and taxis are quite reasonable 
 in their fares, but there is always a tip to 
 give to the coachman or chauffeur. Need- 
 less to say, when I was a little girl, there 
 were no taxis in Mexico City, the means 
 of public conveyance being carriages of 
 three kinds, bearing little flags in white, 
 red, and blue, according to the charge to 
 
THE STREETS IN MEXICO CITY 69 
 
 be made. The white marked the cheap- 
 est carriages, very bad-appearing and 
 with poor horses, while those having the 
 red ones were quite fair, and those with 
 the blue flags were the best. As soon as 
 a carriage was occupied the little colored 
 flag was lowered, thus indicating that 
 the vehicle had been taken. 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 BEAUTIFUL CHAPULTEPEC 
 
 The beautiful castle of Chapultepec is 
 situated away up on a hill, a most 
 picturesque sight. It is surrounded by 
 trees and all kinds of green foliage, and 
 below are woods with winding paths, 
 parks, and a lake where many canoes 
 glide about with merry people. 
 
 Chapultepec Park is the principal drive 
 of Mexico City and is always well filled 
 with automobiles, carriages and people 
 promenading ; especially on Sundays, 
 Thursdays and holidays, it is crowded. 
 One or two bands play on these days at 
 the different band-stands. 
 
 One can enter Chapultepec castle either 
 by ascending on an elevator or by walk- 
 
 '70 
 
BEAUTIFUL CHAPULTEPEG 71 
 
 ing or driving up a winding path. Close 
 to it is the Military Academy, which is 
 most interesting to visit. The cadets of 
 this Academy are the pride of the Mexi- 
 can people ; they are our West Point 
 Cadets. They drill there in a large 
 court-yard at specified hours, and can be 
 seen drilling by persons who wish to 
 watch them from the castle. 
 
 The scenery from away up there is 
 wonderful, as one sees far below and at a 
 short distance Mexico City with all its 
 splendors, high church towers, old Span- 
 ish and modern architecture in public 
 buildings and dwellings, also the snow- 
 covered peaks of the two volcanoes Po- 
 pocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl, which ap- 
 pear to be quite near. It is said that 
 when General Grant visited this spot, 
 during his trip around the world, he 
 stated that the view from the balconies 
 of Chapultepec castle was one of the most 
 enchanting in the world. 
 
 Many times I visited this historic place 
 
72 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 with my mother to call on Mrs. Diaz, 
 wife of President Porfirio Diaz. They 
 generally resided there in the summer 
 months. She is a most gracious and dis- 
 tinguished lady, speaks several languages 
 and was always very amiable and kind 
 to every one, rich or poor. She showed 
 us nearly all the castle, the different lux- 
 urious reception-rooms, parlors, gardens, 
 and terraces. One terrace is enclosed in 
 beautiful colored glass in artistic designs 
 of figures and landscapes. Here we had 
 tea and enjoyed her charming hospitality 
 many times. 
 
 Around the forest below, surrounding 
 and near Chapultepec castle are immense 
 trees called " ahuehuetes," that are said 
 to have been planted by the Aztecs, sev- 
 eral hundred years ago. From these 
 trees, which are very high, a peculiar 
 moss in long strings hangs from the 
 branches. This moss is generally used to 
 ornament the " nacimientos " on Christ- 
 mas, to which I refer elsewhere. 
 
BEAUTIFUL CHAPULTEPEC 73 
 
 Along the hill that leads to the castle 
 is a basin or small pond which is said to 
 have been used by Montezuma, Emperor 
 of the Aztecs, as his bathing-place. In 
 another direction, but still on the hill, 
 one can see the monument erected to the 
 memory of some of the cadets who died 
 defending the castle, during the war with 
 the United States. 
 
 Chapultepec Park is well kept, and ef- 
 ficient guards are stationed at different 
 places where the many carriages and 
 automobiles might endanger the safety 
 of the large crowds of people on Sundays 
 and holidays. Not far from the hill be- 
 low there is a restaurant, which is well 
 patronized. This restaurant is an attract- 
 ive building situated by itself near the 
 main driveway. It has terraces all 
 around, some being enclosed by glass, 
 where many tables are placed, but the 
 principal dining-rooms are in the inte- 
 rior. On these special days it is un- 
 usually thronged, and gay with music. 
 
74 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 A great many of the banquets given 
 during the Pan-American Conference 
 and Centennial celebrations were held at 
 this restaurant. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 
 THE FLOATING GAKDENS AND VIGA CANAL 
 
 The Viga Canal is unusually pictur- 
 esque and quaint, extending many miles. 
 On both sides are trees, flowers, shrubs, 
 and greens of all descriptions, also small 
 villages now and then. 
 
 On feast days and holidays, especially 
 on the Friday (Viernes de Dolores) pre- 
 ceding Holy Week it is at its best, 
 crowded with canoes, row-boats and 
 steam-launches, gayly decorated with 
 flowers, green foliage and flags. Here 
 the people of all classes, rich and poor, 
 enjoy picnics, or "dias de campo'* to 
 their hearts' content. The quaint old- 
 fashioned canoe is very large, with a flat 
 bottom, and holds a large number of 
 
 persons. 
 
 76 
 
76 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 I always recall one very pleasant and 
 enjoyable picnic I attended there. We 
 were over fifty girls and boys, also a few 
 chaperones, a thing that is indispensable 
 in Latin-American countries. Our two 
 canoes (the old-fashioned kind) were 
 prettily decorated with flowers and 
 greens, and at one end of each canoe sat 
 several musicians playing lively airs, 
 while we glided smoothly down the 
 canal. As we reached the floating gar- 
 dens, we stopped long enough to admire 
 these wonders of nature. The flowers 
 grow in the water and one sees them 
 peeping up, some with long stems rising 
 from the water, with scarcely any earth 
 or roots to be seen. 
 
 A short distance farther there is a spot 
 called " Ojo de Agua," where the water 
 is so clear that you can see the bottom, 
 away down many feet in depth. Upon 
 throwing a coin, you can see it distinctly 
 when it reaches the bottom. 
 
 All along the Viga Canal there are 
 
THE FLOATING GARDENS 77 
 
 little Indian villages, where the poor 
 people raise flowers and vegetables which 
 they take in their canoes to Mexico City 
 to sell at various markets, and at the 
 landing-place. It is interesting to visit 
 these villages, especially on occasions 
 when some religious or other festivity is 
 being held. 
 
 There are also on both sides of the 
 canal scattered here and there rustic 
 summer-houses with benches for the 
 picnickers. We could not find one large 
 enough for our party, so we decided to 
 leave our canoes and wander on land, 
 until we found a suitable and favored 
 spot. Here we spread the cloths and laid 
 the good things to eat, every one being 
 rather hungry. There we ate, talked, 
 laughed, and took pictures, all being in 
 a very merry mood, and then returned to 
 our canoes. When we reached the land- 
 ing-place all were in the dancing spirit, 
 so the whole party took the trolley-cars 
 to the Country Club, an up-to-date and 
 
78 WEEN I WAS A GIRL IN 3IEXIC0 
 
 important club where Americans, Eng- 
 lish, Mexicans, and all nationalities 
 assemble to dance, play tennis, golf, etc. 
 This club is situated a short distance 
 from the city and is very attractive. We 
 danced until late that evening and re- 
 turned to Mexico City and our homes 
 with very pleasant and enjoyable mem- 
 ories of our " dia de campo " spent along 
 the Viga Canal. 
 
 At the end of the Canal is Xochimilco, 
 a typical Indian village much larger 
 than the rest, and where most of the 
 flowers are brought from to sell at the 
 Mercado de Flores (Flower market) and 
 other places in Mexico City. At this 
 locality some new water- works have been 
 established which furnish some of the 
 water to the capital. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 
 BY RAIL IN MEXICO 
 
 One of the wonders of nature and en- 
 gineering is the railway from Vera Cruz 
 (one of Mexico's ports on the Gulf of 
 Mexico) to Mexico City, the capital of 
 the Republic. 
 
 One leaves Vera Cruz early in the 
 morning, in a tropical climate, and grad- 
 ually ascends, on a winding track up 
 hills and mountains, with frequent preci- 
 pices in sight, until Mexico City is 
 reached, twelve hours later. The cap- 
 ital is 7,500 feet above sea level, so you 
 find a decided change of temperature, in 
 fact you feel quite cold after experiencing 
 the heat of Vera Cruz. On this account 
 it is advisable to go prepared with wraps 
 for your arrival. 
 
 The scenery is magnificent all along, 
 79 
 
80 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 vegetation of all descriptions, such as the 
 cactus, maguey, etc., typical of Mexican 
 soil. Beautiful valleys far, far below are 
 to be seen, and especially from a very 
 high peak one beholds the quaint old 
 town of Maltrata, which at such great 
 distance looks like toyland, enchanted 
 with moving figures, well-laid streets, 
 and odd low dwellings. Many moun- 
 tain-peaks covered with snow are also to 
 be seen and nearing Mexico City, the 
 volcanoes Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl. 
 All these wonderful scenes are in the 
 highest degree inspiring to the painter. 
 
 The engineering of that road was a 
 very difficult task. One imagines at 
 times that the train will turn over into 
 one of those deep precipices, as there are 
 so many sharp curves and barely space 
 on the road-bed for trains to pass. Some 
 accidents have occurred, but on rare oc- 
 casions. 
 
 Another interesting sight is the ar- 
 riving at every station. Indian men. 
 
The Popocatepetl. 
 Mexico's most famous volcano. 
 
 The Ixtaccihuatl. 
 Another large volcano which can also be seen from Mexico City. 
 
BY BAIL IN MEXICO 81 
 
 women, and children are awaiting the 
 trains to sell through the car windows to 
 the passengers, drawn-work, potteries, 
 fruits, and all kinds of Mexican curios- 
 ities. At one of these stations, the town 
 being well known for its plentiful gar- 
 denias, they sell them arranged inside 
 of the stalk of the banana, which pre- 
 serves and keeps them fresh for many 
 days. These gardenias in the United 
 States are among the most expensive and 
 rare flowers, while in Mexico they are 
 very abundant and very cheap. 
 
 The port of Vera Cruz is quite an 
 important one of the Republic, as great 
 quantities of imports and exports are 
 brought and taken from here to Europe, 
 Cuba, and the United States, although to 
 the latter a great portion goes by land. 
 The city is quaint and very clean, with 
 well-paved streets and good drainage. 
 Hardly a case of yellow fever is ever 
 reported now, but it is quite warm all the 
 year around, as are all tropical places. 
 
82 WHEN I WAS A QIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 The park or square in the center of the 
 city is where most of the hotels and 
 shops are located, these buildings having 
 arcades. At the restaurants and caf^s 
 tables are placed right on the sidewalks 
 and on these arcades, leaving only room 
 enough for the pedestrians. It is much 
 cooler to dine or take refreshments out 
 there, and at night the sea-breeze is felt 
 and is much welcomed. 
 
 During the afternoons and evenings 
 the band plays at that square and it gets 
 filled with people, who promenade or sit 
 on the benches to listen to the music. 
 An odd sight to be seen there, just as the 
 sun goes down, is hundreds of black 
 birds flying about and perching all 
 along the telegraph wires that are around 
 this park. They remain there all night, 
 to fly away, no one knows where, at 
 daybreak, and return again that same 
 evening. 
 
 Although we remained in Vera Cruz 
 but a day or a few hours at a time on 
 
BY BAIL IN MEXICO 83 
 
 our various trips from Habana to Mexico 
 City, still I saw most of the city and 
 surroundings. The Naval Academy is 
 located at this port. This we visited, 
 and were shown around by some of the 
 officers we met on the gunboats Zaragoza 
 and Yucatan that stopped at the port 
 of Habana while we were there. It was 
 very interesting to visit that Naval 
 Academy and see the splendid discipline 
 these cadets receive. 
 
 Among the cities which I have visited 
 in the interior of the Republic, are 
 Guadalajara, the second largest in Mexico, 
 the capital, Mexico City, being the first 
 and most important. All the best 
 pottery curiosities are made in Guada- 
 lajara. The Indians make figures, statues, 
 dishes, and ornaments of pottery or 
 earthenware in attractive designs and 
 painted in appropriate colors ; they also 
 make from this material statues and 
 busts, copied from the original or photo- 
 graphs in exact likeness. The city has 
 
84 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 many fine buildings, houses, and well- 
 paved streets. The third in importance 
 and population is Puebla, called the city 
 of churches, owing to the numerous and 
 especially beautiful ones that it has. It 
 is also an attractive city, and from here 
 most of the onyx comes in various colors 
 and shades. The Indians who have such 
 a knack and taste for making curiosities 
 carve the onyx into various shapes and 
 designs, imitating fruits, vegetables, etc. 
 
 We traveled by land many times, go- 
 ing or coming from Mexico City to the 
 United States, going on the Mexican Cen- 
 tral railroad and passing through El 
 Paso, and Eagle Pass on the American 
 side, both border cities. Other towns of 
 Mexico that I remember passing were 
 Queretaro, where Archduke Maximilian 
 was shot. His luxurious gilt coach is 
 now in the National Museum ; I saw it 
 when visiting that interesting museum at 
 Mexico City. Most of the opals come 
 from Queretaro and as one reaches that 
 
BY BAIL IN MEXICO 85 
 
 station many Indians are to be seen sell- 
 ing them. The passengers sometimes 
 buy expensive and genuine opals very 
 cheaply from these venders. We also 
 passed by Chihuahua, Guanajuato, and 
 Zacatecas, the last two being mining 
 towns. Zacatecas is very hilly and pic- 
 turesque ; it has so many ups and downs 
 that there is a tramway that goes to 
 Guadalupe, a small town below, the cars 
 going by themselves down this steep hill. 
 In Guanajuato there is a very large and 
 beautiful theatre, that was erected not so 
 very many years ago. The *' presas " or 
 reservoirs which provide water for the 
 city are noteworthy, and owing to the 
 hilly condition of the country around 
 there, are highly picturesque. At Guan- 
 ajuato and Zacatecas we visited the mines 
 and reduction works, but as I was a very 
 small girl when we went there, I can 
 scarcely remember anything of my visits 
 to those places. 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 
 IN GUATEMALA, AND BACK TO MEXICO 
 
 We lived in Guatemala on two occa- 
 sions, my father being sent there both 
 times as Mexican Minister ; once years 
 ago when I was a little child, remaining 
 over two years. I scarcely remember 
 anything, only our splendid large house 
 with interior court-yards, gardens, sta- 
 bles, etc., also some of the children, who 
 on my second visit there became my 
 close friends, recalling vaguely that we 
 had known each other when very small. 
 
 Guatemala brings back to me pleasant 
 recollections of good times, and good 
 friends. The people are very hospitable 
 and show in many ways their fondness 
 for one. On saints' days, feasts, or de- 
 partures they always remember one by 
 sending flowers, candies, or other gifts. 
 80 
 
IN GUATEMALA 87 
 
 The city was of a decided old Spanish 
 architecture with low houses, not more 
 than two stories high. The roofs were of 
 red tiles, and the lower windows had iron 
 bars, through which many a lover spoke 
 to or serenaded his ** novia '' (sweetheart). 
 There are two lovely drives, the " Paseo 
 de la Reforma" and the " Hipodromo.^' 
 At the latter there is a fair-week for horse- 
 racing during the month of August. 
 Three days are selected for the races, and 
 crowds of people go to witness them. 
 Sometimes races for the benefit of some 
 benevolent institution are given, when 
 those who take part in them are young 
 men well known in social circles. I re- 
 call well enough how in one of those 
 races, my brothers rode their own horses, 
 and how frightened I was fearing that 
 some accident might happen to them. 
 Fortunately nothing disagreeable oc- 
 curred, and I was even glad to see that 
 they won some of the races and received 
 prizes. 
 
88 WHUN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 At the Hipodromo the festivities of 
 Minerva, so called, would also take place. 
 Then all the children of the public and 
 private schools took part in the exercises 
 held, which were very interesting, and 
 prizes were given to the most deserving. 
 While in Guatemala I continued my 
 studies at home with private teachers. 
 
 The Colon theatre is very large and 
 attractive, where all the ^lite meet. 
 Many go, if the company of artists is not 
 of the best, as if to a social gathering. It 
 is the custom here, as in Mexico and in 
 nearly all the Latin-American countries, 
 to have the intermissions very long, and 
 in that way allow the audience to ex- 
 change visits at the different boxes and 
 chat with the ladies and the girls with 
 the "novios" (sweethearts). There is 
 also a foyer at that theatre, where the 
 young people meet during the intermis- 
 sions. 
 
 There is a bull-ring in Guatemala City. 
 When we were there Mazzantini, the 
 
IN GUATEMALA 89 
 
 great Spanish bull-fighter, gave several 
 performances. He made the trip on the 
 same steamer that my family and I took 
 from Salina Cruz, Mexico, to San JosS, 
 Guatemala. In that way we met him 
 and liked him very much. He was not 
 of the ordinary class, like most bull- 
 fighters, but belonged to a well-known 
 Spanish family, and was well educated 
 and refined. When he was a boy he took 
 such a liking to this sport ^of" torero,'' 
 that he followed it as a profession. I 
 know that upon his return to Spain, his 
 wife having died, he left ofi* bull-fight- 
 ing and was elected a member of the 
 Common Council of Madrid. 
 
 Beautiful gowns and hats are seen at 
 these bull-fights. The young ladies that 
 are selected to be queens wore the Span- 
 ish " mantilla " (white or black Spanish 
 lace) over their heads, becomingly ar- 
 ranged with bright flowers and high 
 combs. The Indian girls wear their best, 
 brilliant shawls of all colors^ some of 
 
90 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 tliese having long fringe and embroidery. 
 All this adds greatly to the spectacle 
 along the streets, thronged with gayety 
 and life, leading to the bull-ring, which 
 I enjoyed seeing, though I am not a par- 
 tisan of that sport. 
 
 It is sad to relate that very recently 
 Guatemala City was nearly all destroyed 
 by terrible earthquakes, so that I shall 
 never again see it as I remember it. 
 
 Our trip back from Guatemala to Mex- 
 ico (during our first stay in that country) 
 was just before the railroad was put in 
 operation, so after arriving at Manzanillo, 
 one of Mexico's ports, having been trav- 
 eling about five days on a steamer, we 
 had to go by land, two days on muleback 
 and one by stage-coach, until we reached 
 Guadalajara. It was a very interesting 
 but trying trip, as at four o'clock before 
 daybreak, we had to start on muleback 
 or by stage-coach, and make many 
 changes and rest at various towns or small 
 villages, some not having a hotel but 
 
IN GUATEMALA 91 
 
 only lodging-houses, where we ate, or 
 stayed for the night. 
 
 Those roads through mountains, hills 
 and precipices have wonderful scenery, 
 with dense vegetation, mountains, etc., 
 also snow-covered peaks, but it was rather 
 a dangerous journey, although the mules 
 are well acquainted with the roads and 
 are sure-footed. Nevertheless it fright- 
 ened us at times ; the roads were so nar- 
 row that only two mules or horses could 
 go abreast, or pass each other, going or 
 coming. Each of us children, the 
 younger ones, had a guide, who rode 
 behind on the same mule with each one, 
 to hold us on, but my father, mother, and 
 older brothers went alone, with the guide 
 near at hand. These mules always insist 
 on going as close to the edge of the preci- 
 pices as possible, making one nervous and 
 uneasy. 
 
 Some of the precipices and hills have 
 queer names, one of them being called 
 " La Llorona '' (The Weeping Woman), 
 
92 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 which some say has been applied to it on 
 account of the legend to which I have 
 referred and which served to scare chil- 
 dren and even ignorant adults, while 
 others assert that it is so designated be- 
 cause most women who ride through that 
 narrow path get so scared that sometimes 
 they even weep through fear. 
 
 One of these days we were traveling 
 on the stage-coach, and being bounced 
 and knocked about for many hours, and 
 should have reached a certain village be- 
 fore dark, but somehow our driver took 
 the wrong path and we lost our guides. 
 At that time they always went armed, 
 because there had been cases of attacks 
 by robbers, and these guides of course 
 knew the roads perfectly well. It was 
 night already and still we wandered 
 about to find the right road, we children 
 thinking that we were in danger of being 
 robbed or killed in those dark places, 
 and no one could defend us, as all were 
 unarmed. Finally we met the guides, 
 
IN GUATEMALA 93 
 
 who also were looking everywhere for 
 our stage-coach, and they in turn with 
 matches and lighted papers, as best as 
 they could, found the much-desired road 
 and directed our driver. We reached the 
 town shortly afterwards, much to our de- 
 light, after having passed anxious and 
 trying hours of suspense and fear, and 
 also being well worn out. 
 
 When we reached Guadalajara we 
 found the city gayly decorated, owing 
 to the festivities that then took place on 
 account of the opening of a railroad. 
 President Diaz was there with his cab- 
 inet, and the celebrations were very 
 elaborate. Being very small I remember 
 hardly anything of what took place. 
 From Guadalajara we took a train to 
 Mexico City, and after staying a few days 
 there we left by rail for Washington, 
 where my father had been sent as First 
 Secretary of the Mexican Legation, which 
 afterwards became an Embassy. 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 
 RESIDING AND STUDYING IN WASHING- 
 TON, D. C. 
 
 Most of my education was acquired by 
 private teachers at home, in Mexico, 
 Guatemala, and the United States, but I 
 also went several years to a convent in 
 Washington. When we arrived in this 
 city I was a little girl and spoke only 
 Spanish, but soon, as children do, learned 
 to speak English. 
 
 At first I had a private teacher at 
 home who taught me English, and piano, 
 going afterwards as a day scholar to the 
 Academy of the Visitation on Connecti- 
 cut Avenue. The nuns were very kind 
 to me, but at first I was rather timid and 
 bashful, as this was my first experience 
 away from home. When I was called to 
 
 read or say my lessons aloud it made me 
 94 
 
BE SIDING IN WASHINGTON 95 
 
 quite nervous, because I thought that, 
 being a foreigner, my pronunciation was 
 not correct and that the girls inwardly 
 made fun of me. I am glad to say that 
 this was not the case, and in a short time 
 I liked the convent very much, and made 
 many friends among the girls. On our 
 way home from school we always bought 
 things to eat, as most children do, but 
 strange to say I would buy pop-corn, po- 
 tato chips, and pickles, which I pre- 
 ferred. This amused the other girls, who, 
 of course, liked candies best. 
 
 Two years before entering the convent 
 a great event took place; my sister was 
 born. I had three older brothers and 
 two younger ones, the third having died 
 when a baby in Mexico City. Two of 
 my brothers and I were down with the 
 mumps when my little sister was born, 
 so I was unable to see her until two 
 weeks later, much to my displeasure, as 
 I was anxious to see this tiny baby, who 
 I thought would be my real baby doll. 
 
96 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 the preferred one. She was christened 
 at home and named after my mother 
 Adela, the Mexican Ambassador being 
 her godfather. I can remember the 
 pretty silver cup and white enameled 
 rocking-chair he gave her, also all about 
 the ceremony and party afterwards, and 
 how grown-up I felt, because I was al- 
 lowed to be present. 
 
 In those days the bicycle was very 
 popular and in great demand. I of 
 course had one and rode on it to school 
 nearly every day, enjoying it immensely, 
 but one day when the ground was 
 covered with snow, I was going at high 
 speed, as it was very late, and carried 
 many books and my lunch-box, all very 
 tightly tied to the handle of my bicycle. 
 Suddenly they began to slip away, and 
 books and lunch-box fell to the snow- 
 covered ground in all directions, much 
 to my dismay and anger. I assure you 
 that it was quite a task to pick them up, 
 clean off the snow, and tie again to the 
 
RESIDING IN WASHINGTON 97 
 
 bicycle. More than that, I could not 
 reach school on time, but got there 
 several minutes late. 
 
 Among my schoolmates was Belen 
 Azpiroz, daughter of the Mexican Am- 
 bassador and godfather to my sister. 
 With her I uped to recall the pleasant 
 times we had in our own country. I 
 also remember how interested I was 
 whenever in my class of geography or 
 history reference was made to Mexico. 
 
 Washington is a very beautiful city, 
 like a huge park in summer, trees in 
 every street and lovely parks or squares 
 for the children to play in. It somewhat 
 reminds one of Mexico City, that is of 
 the new residential sections or " colonias." 
 How we children used to love to go to 
 the Zoological or Rock Creek Park, and 
 on Easter Monday to go to roll eggs on 
 the White House lawn. We lived at 
 that time on Fifteenth Street and our 
 house had two nice porches and a swing 
 on the lawn, painted green, where we 
 
98 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 played and swung ourselves to our hearts* 
 content. I always enjoy going back to 
 Washington, having very pleasant recol- 
 lections of our various stays in that city, 
 and also it is nice to see again my school 
 friends and other friends made there in 
 later years. 
 
 As I said before, we went back to San 
 Francisco, California, several times and 
 during one of our visits there, we took a 
 house in Oakland across the bay. I 
 can say very little about our residence 
 in that city as I was yet quite young, but 
 I remember among other things that a 
 Mexican military band, that was giving 
 concerts in San Francisco, came to sere- 
 nade my father, who was then in charge 
 of the Mexican Consulate General in that 
 city. At that time Juventino Rosas' 
 " Sobre las Olas," one of the best waltzes 
 written and the work of a Mexican com- 
 poser, was in the height of its popularity, 
 and whenever the band played it, the 
 applause was deafening. 
 
RESIDING IN WASHINGTON 99 
 
 I have always been fond of music, and 
 even when a little girl I used to listen 
 with delight to the playing of the Mexi- 
 can military bands, which I may say are 
 very good, as also to what are called the 
 " typical " orchestras, made up of guitars, 
 mandolins, and other odd stringed instru- 
 ments. The best of these orchestras was 
 led by Lerdo de Tejada, a Mexican com- 
 poser, whose '' Perjura " and other songs, 
 ** danzas," and pieces have become very 
 popular in the United States. His or- 
 chestra and several Mexican military 
 bands have visited this country on dif- 
 ferent occasions, and they have always 
 been enthusiastically received by the 
 music-loving public. 
 
CHAPTER XV 
 
 THE LAUNCHING OF MEXICAN WAR-SHIPS 
 
 Two Mexican war-ships (twin ships) 
 were built in the American Crescent 
 Shipyard at Elizabeth, N. J. ; the Vera 
 Cruz and the Tampico. 
 
 At that time my father was Charg6 
 d' Affaires at Washington, D. C, so he 
 was asked to have one of his daughters 
 christen either of the ships. I was still 
 a very young girl with short dresses, but 
 was the lucky and fortunate one to be 
 chosen, as I was the eldest girl, to be one 
 of the sponsors. The other was Mrs. 
 Lewis Nixon, wife of the naval con- 
 structor. 
 
 It was a bright sunny day in September 
 when my family and I boarded a large 
 steam launch in New York City's harbor 
 for Elizabethport, N. J. 
 100 
 
LAUNCHING OF WAB-SHIPS 101 
 
 This eventful occasion in my life 
 thrilled me greatly, and I can well re- 
 member this interesting day most viv- 
 idly. On arriving at our destination, we 
 were met by the American and Mexican 
 officials and were escorted to the tempo- 
 rary platform, erected close to the bow of 
 the ship that I was to christen, this one 
 being the Vera Cruz. There I was pre- 
 sented with a beautiful bouquet of flowers 
 and with a champagne bottle, all done up 
 in a gilt net bag with green, white, and 
 red ribbon streamers, our national colors. 
 On each ribbon there was written in gilt 
 letters the name of ship, date, place, 
 and name of the " madrina " (sponsor). 
 With this elaborate bottle I was to 
 christen the war-ship. I was instructed 
 to break the bottle on the prow of the 
 ship and say, just as it was slipping away, 
 " I christen thee Vera Cruz.^^ I also was 
 reminded that if the ship should get 
 away without this being done, just at the 
 right moment, it would be launched un- 
 
102 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 christened. I was slightly uneasy and 
 nervous as to my ability to do the right 
 thing at the right time, as every one's at- 
 tention was directed at me. 
 
 All went off very nicely, and the bot- 
 tle broke in many pieces. The Vera 
 Cruz slipped away into the sea, and in 
 like manner the TampicOf this last one be- 
 ing christened, as I said before, by Mrs. 
 Nixon, amid applause, roar of cannons, 
 shouting, and the playing of patriotic 
 airs of both countries by the band. It 
 was a wonderful sight as thousands wit- 
 nessed these two ceremonies. The ship- 
 yard was profusely decorated with flags 
 and national colors, which were waving 
 to and fro by the breeze. I still keep 
 the champagne bottle in many pieces, 
 which are held by the gilt net bag, as a 
 remembrance of this pleasant and inter- 
 esting occasion. 
 
 After the launching of the two ships, 
 we were invited to a banquet and recep- 
 tion. The building where these social 
 
LAUNCHING OF WARSHIPS 103 
 
 functions took place was tastefully orna- 
 mented with flags, flowers, and plants. 
 
 The celebrations having terminated, 
 we returned again to New York City on 
 the steam launch, and from there took a 
 train to Bay Shore, L. I., where we had a 
 cottage and were spending the summer 
 months. 
 
 Afterwards on one of my return trips 
 to Mexico, while passing the port of 
 Vera Cruz, I had the pleasure of visiting 
 the war-ship Vera OruZy which I had 
 christened and that was anchored at that 
 harbor, and I was happy to know that 
 several of the oflScers had kindly remem- 
 bered the " madrina " of the vessel. 
 
CHAPTER XVI 
 
 the buffalo exposition. pkesident 
 Mckinley's assassination 
 
 My father was sent to the Pan-Ameri- 
 can Exposition at Buffalo, N. Y., from 
 Washington, as one of Mexico's repre- 
 sentatives. 
 
 We took a house in that lovely and at- 
 tractive city and remained there about 
 three months, going frequently to the 
 Exposition and sometimes we stayed in 
 the grounds all day long. 
 
 My delight was to go to the Exposition 
 and visit the different buildings, and add 
 to my collection badges, pamphlets, coins, 
 samples, and imitations of various arti- 
 cles on exhibition there, which were 
 given away to the people and children.^ 
 
 Of course the greatest desire of us chil- 
 104 
 
THE BUFFALO EXPOSITION 105 
 
 dren was to go to the ** Midway," where 
 all the amusements were. I remember 
 especially *' The Trip to the Moon," 
 "The House Upside Down," and the 
 Streets of Cairo; there I rode on the 
 backs of a camel and elephant, being al- 
 most shaken to pieces, but nevertheless 
 enjoying it very much. 
 
 It was a very fine exposition and the 
 illuminations were splendid; they say 
 that owing to the great power obtained 
 from Niagara Falls it had one of the 
 best electrical displays ever had in any 
 exposition. t\ 
 
 Our trip to Niagara Falls was a very 
 interesting one and we were able to 
 admire those wonderful waterfalls, the 
 greatest in the world, from both the 
 American and Canadian sides. We still 
 have a photograph taken there. It looks 
 as if the whole family, my mother, fa- 
 ther, brothers and I, were standing on 
 one of the falls ; a scheme the photog- 
 raphers have of combining both pic- 
 
106 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 tures, the Falls and the group, to make 
 it appear that way. 
 
 / The assassination of President McKinley 
 ' was a tragic and sad event. My parents 
 related to me how pleasantly they had 
 spent with him that day at an excursion 
 and luncheon at Niagara Falls. All the 
 officials, American and Latin- American, 
 were invited, as were also President and 
 Mrs. McKinley. They both were in a 
 happy and cheerful mood, mingling and 
 chatting most amiably with the other 
 guests. 
 
 On returning to Buffalo and the 
 Exposition, the party dispersed. My 
 father then went home for us children 
 to take us to join my mother, who had 
 remained with friends in the Mexican 
 building. To our great horror and regret 
 on entering the grounds in a carriage, as 
 that day carriages were permitted inside 
 the grounds for the invited guests, 'we 
 were told at the gate that an attempt 
 had been made on the life of President 
 
THE BUFFALO EXPOSITION 107 
 
 McKinley and that he was severely 
 wounded. At that moment we began to 
 hear shouts, screams of "■ Lynch him I " 
 and the excitement of the people was 
 intense. Just then a carriage passed us 
 at high speed, in which the assassin 
 Czolgosz was being taken to prison. 
 President McKinley at the time of that 
 cowardly attempt was holding a public 
 reception and shaking hands with all at 
 the Temple of Music. That tragedy up- 
 set us so much that we changed our plans 
 and having met my mother, who also 
 was very much impressed, sad and nerv- 
 ous, after having witnessed and heard 
 the cries of '* Lynch him ! " and seen the 
 carriage with the assassin, that we re- 
 turned home, instead of remaining the 
 rest of the day. Though very young 
 then, the terrible event impressed me 
 very much, especially as I noticed how 
 everybody felt so sad, not only on 
 account of the dastardly deed, but be- 
 cause President McKinley died a few 
 
108 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 days later J He was so very kind and 
 deservedly popular. 
 
 Mexico had a very important part in 
 the Exposition, having an administration 
 building and exhibits in all the various 
 departments and buildings. These ex- 
 hibits were very attractive and interest- 
 ing, and drew the attention of thousands 
 of visitors. That they were duly ap- 
 preciated, is shown by its many prizes 
 that Mexican exhibitors received at the 
 Exposition. Furthermore it sent a mili- 
 tary band, which gave concerts that were 
 very popular. I well remember how the 
 people applauded when the " Paloma " 
 and other typical pieces, that are popular 
 in the United States, were played by the 
 band. Whenever I went into Mexico 
 Building and saw so many things made 
 in my country, it seemed, at times, as if I 
 were back again in my native land. 
 
CHAPTER XVII 
 
 THE SECOND PAN-AMERICAN CONFERENCE 
 
 The Second Pan-American Conference 
 took place in Mexico City in the winter 
 of 1901-1902. 
 
 At that time I was still a little girl, but 
 can recall most vividly some of the hap- 
 penings of this important conference, 
 while we were stopping at the Hotel Itur- 
 bide. This was Emperor Iturbide's resi- 
 dence, converted into a hotel many years 
 ago. It is a very large massive building 
 of old Spanish architecture, four stories 
 high, with five interior " patios " (court- 
 yards), and three different entrances. 
 The principal entrance is on San Fran- 
 cisco Street, the leading business street of 
 
 Mexico City, and the other entrances are 
 109 
 
110 WHEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 
 
 on San Juan de Letran and Coliseo Viejo 
 Streets. 
 
 Many of the Pan-American delegates 
 were staying at this hotel, and as my 
 father was connected with the Mexican 
 delegation, I met them all and became 
 friends of their children, as most of them 
 brought their families. Among the dele- 
 gates were many that were Ministers 
 from various Latin-American countries 
 to the United States and living in Wash- 
 ington at the time when we were there, 
 so of course we already knew them, and 
 it was a pleasure to see them again and 
 live in the same hotel. With these chil- 
 dren I used to play all kinds of games, 
 hide-and-go-seek and tag, through the 
 many long halls and corridors of the 
 hotel. 
 
 Great excitement prevailed among us 
 children and even among the curious 
 older persons on the days that these dip- 
 lomats and delegates were received by 
 President Porfirio Diaz. Presidential 
 
THE PAN-AMERICAN GONFERENGE 111 
 
 carriages came for them, entering the 
 principal " patio," where it was a rare oc- 
 currence for any carriages to be allowed. 
 The Introducer of Ambassadors came for 
 these distinguished men. They wore 
 their brilliant uniforms with gold lace 
 and embroidery, and plumes on their 
 hats. After entering the different car- 
 riages they departed in great pomp, we of 
 course anxiously awaiting their return. 
 
 Another memorable day, but not such 
 a pleasant one, was my first experience 
 with an earthquake shock, which was a 
 very severe one and during the Pan- 
 American Conference. 
 
 Several girl friends and I were watch- 
 ing from a second-story balcony of the 
 interior court-yard of the hotel the dig- 
 ging of a well. One of the workmen 
 was climbing up a high ladder, when 
 suddenly it began to shake and we began 
 to feel a dizzy sensation. Some one 
 shouted " Un temblor ! " (an earthquake). 
 We became very frightened and ran as 
 
112 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 fast as we could to our rooms and moth- 
 ers. I remember so well how unsteady 
 and dizzy I felt going up the flight of 
 stairs, and was met by many an anxious 
 face, and also by my mother who was 
 looking about for my brothers and me. 
 
 The scenes on the streets during an 
 earthquake were quite impressive, as 
 many Indians knelt and prayed. As 
 Mexico City is built on a lake, it is said 
 that the shocks of earthquakes, even 
 though severe, cannot be so destructive 
 as in other cities that are built on more 
 solid land. On this account the con- 
 struction of buildings is a difficult task, 
 as not many feet below is water, and the 
 foundations have to be very solid, or in a 
 few years the building or structure, if 
 very high or massive, begins to sink 
 slightly but perceptibly. 
 
 My parents gave several entertain- 
 ments to some of the delegates and Mexi- 
 can friends. One of these evenings 
 several poets and writers of different 
 
THE PAN' AMEBIC AN CONFERENCE 113 
 
 nationalities were present and each of 
 them recited or read one of his composi- 
 tions. Among them was Juan de Dios 
 Peza, a most renowned and popular Mexi- 
 can poet. I used to love to read the 
 book which he dedicated to his home and 
 children, recalling the verses " Fusiles y 
 Munecas " (Guns and Dolls) in which he 
 describes his children at play, and their 
 favorite aims and amusements. He died 
 only a few years ago, much to the regret 
 of his numerous admirers and apprecia- 
 tive readers of his heartfelt, simply 
 worded, and attractive styled poetry. 
 
 The Pan-American delegates were 
 taken by the government for excursions 
 around the outskirts of the capital, and 
 to many of the cities in the interior of 
 the Republic ; as I was too small to go, I 
 am unable to describe any of these inter- 
 esting and enjoyable trips. I do remem- 
 ber that many of the factories, from all 
 over the country, sent samples to the 
 foreign delegates, and recall especially 
 
114 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN 3IEXIG0 
 
 the large assortment of materials (some 
 samples of several yards in length), in 
 cotton, woolen, and silk of various colors, 
 designs, and textures, all made by Mexi- 
 can factories and which could compare 
 with those made in the United States 
 and elsewhere. Of course we children 
 were very much interested in these 
 samples, as our mothers gave us the 
 smaller pieces for dolls' dresses. 
 
 Clothes and dresses are made from 
 these materials, although a great deal is 
 also imported from Europe and the United 
 States. 
 
 Some persons unacquainted with life 
 in Mexico and judging merely from 
 many illustrations contained in the 
 papers or scenes depicted in the " movies," 
 may get the idea, an erroneous one, in- 
 deed, that children in Mexico go bare- 
 footed, that they are poorly clad and fed. 
 Such may be the case with reference to 
 the children of the poorer and lower 
 classes, or the Indians, the same thing to 
 
THE PAN-AMERICAN CONFERENCE 115 
 
 be seen in other countries although it 
 may be more noticeable in Mexico on 
 account of the comparatively larger num- 
 ber of Indians to be found there. 
 
 Children and adults of the middle and 
 well-to-do classes dress somewhat like 
 those of the same rank in the United 
 States, there being a tendency to adopt 
 in some degree the fashions used in 
 France and Spain. I do not mean the 
 " mantilla," Spanish fancy dress, or 
 " torero " suits, which many believe 
 Latin-Americans usually wear on the 
 streets and homes, but the same styles 
 worn in the United States and in Euro- 
 pean cities. ' ' - 
 
 The Indian women and girls of the 
 lower classes and servant girls do dress 
 differently. They wear no hats but use 
 a typical scarf called " rebozo." Those 
 of finer hand-made workmanship in silk 
 fabrics, for instance, are used by ladies 
 and girls in their city homes or when 
 residing in the country. Some of these 
 
116 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 are so finely woven and of such delicate 
 texture that they can be easily drawn 
 through a ring. 
 
 The Indian men and boys wear the 
 typical hat, "sombrero," with a high 
 peak and wide brim ; the poorer ones in- 
 stead of shoes use sandals, and most of 
 them, when cold, in place of overcoats 
 use a " sarape." This is a wide piece of 
 cloth in woolen, hand-made in bright or 
 dull colors with stripes or other designs. 
 These " sarapes " have generally an open- 
 ing through which to pass the head, and 
 others wear them as large scarfs over the 
 shoulders. Foreigners greatly admire 
 tl"":^ ai^u many uuy them for table 
 covers, curtains, or draperies. Some of 
 the "sombreros" are made of felt and 
 are embroideried with silver and gold 
 ornaments, which render them quite 
 expensive. Sometimes young boys use 
 these finely trimmed " sombreros " when 
 going out on horseback, but I must say 
 that this custom is fast passing away. 
 
THE PAN-AMERICAN CONFERENCE 117 
 
 The '* Rurales " wear " sombreros " like 
 these and their uniforms or suits fit them 
 very tightly. These consist of a short 
 jacket and very tightly fitting trousers 
 made of doeskin, and are also heavily 
 embroidered in silver or gold, similar to 
 the " sombreros," and some of them cost 
 a great deal and look most attractive. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 IN HABANA 
 
 I HAD just made my dSbut at Washing- 
 ton, D. C, and was having a most de- 
 lightful time going around to all the 
 debutante parties, and grand receptions 
 at the White House, Embassies, Lega- 
 tions, etc., when my father was trans- 
 ferred to Habana, as Mexican Minister to 
 Cuba. 
 
 We were very cordially received by 
 that government. We took a house at 
 Vedado, a residential suburb of Habana, 
 on Calle (Street) 17, the same house that 
 the former Minister had. At first I 
 missed very much my friends and Wash- 
 ington, but soon began to like that 
 attractive and lively city, and become 
 acquainted with some charming Cuban 
 people, old and young. 
 
 Soon after our arrival there, two Mexi- 
 118 
 
IN HABANA 119 
 
 can war-ships, the Zaragoza and the 
 Yucatan, came to that port. It was a 
 great pleasure, and I always felt very 
 thrilled and happy whenever I visited 
 those ships, as I was then, if only for a 
 short time, on Mexican soil, and among 
 my countrymen. We entertained the 
 officers and they in return gave a party 
 and dance on board to us and to the 
 Cuban society. It was my first experience 
 in attending a dance on board a war-ship, 
 so I enjoyed it all the more. The bands 
 played several patriotic airs, Mexican 
 danzas and songs, the ships being gaily 
 decorated with many flags. I still have 
 a photograph taken on one of those 
 occasions, on board the Zaragoza^ and 
 the group of all the invited guests. One 
 of the officers gave me a button from his 
 uniform, which I have had mounted as 
 a hat-pin. 
 
 We lived in four different houses while 
 in Habana, as we made several trips to 
 Mexico and the United States, staying 
 
120 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 away a few months during the summer, 
 which is quite warm, and also for more 
 than a year in Washington again, my 
 father having been sent there temporarily. 
 The house I liked best, because of the 
 beautiful view from its balconies, was 
 one on the Malecon, or driveway along 
 the ocean and not many blocks away 
 from Miramar Hotel, and band-stand, just 
 at the entrance to the harbor. Habana's 
 port is a very busy and important one, 
 merchant vessels, passenger and freight 
 steamers of all kinds entering and leav- 
 ing. We could see from our balconies 
 the ships arriving and departing, and I 
 remember how keenly we watched to see 
 the entrance of the steamers coming from 
 Vera Cruz, and more so if relatives or 
 friends were coming. One could almost 
 distinguish with telescopes from our 
 balconies the people we knew on board, 
 as they passed our house, although at 
 quite a distance. 
 
 The sunsets are wonderful, reflecting 
 
IN HABANA 121 
 
 the many colors on the sea waves, and 
 when the sea was very rough or the tide 
 high, the waves would splash all over the 
 Malecon, and even on our balconies we 
 could feel the salt water. A few times 
 that drive and houses along it have been 
 inundated during a cyclone or very high 
 tide. We never witnessed a very severe 
 one but nevertheless we saw a very heavy 
 wind-storm. The waves were wonderful 
 to see, rising very high and splashing in 
 all directions, and at the Morro Castle, 
 just at the entrance to the harbor, the 
 waves would reach the tower. The 
 Malecon is also a very lively place in the 
 afternoons, especially on Sundays and 
 during Carnival, as it is part of the 
 principal drive for the numerous auto- 
 mobiles and carriages. All the balconies 
 of the houses along there are also filled 
 with the residents and their friends. 
 
 During the winter months Habana is 
 filled with tourists, mostly coming from 
 the United States, and at times they even 
 
122 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 find it difficult to get good accommoda- 
 tions at the hotels, so of course the city 
 is even livelier at that time of the year. 
 In summer many of the Cuban families 
 go to spend a few months in the United 
 States; it was during that period that 
 we also made our trips to Mexico and 
 the States, as Habana is an ideal spot for 
 a winter resort for those who do not like 
 the cold weather. 
 
 We were constantly meeting and see- 
 ing Mexican friends and acquaintances, 
 who passed by that port. We generally 
 went to meet them and enjoyed taking 
 them around sight-seeing. The large 
 steamers at that time did not anchor at 
 the piers, but at a short distance inside 
 the harbor or bay. Whenever we went 
 to meet or leave our friends, we would go 
 to the steamer in a steam-launch, as every 
 one does. The ships generally arrive 
 very early in the morning, and they are 
 soon surrounded by numerous little boats 
 and launches. 
 
CHAPTER XIX 
 
 THE MEXICAN CENTENNIAL 
 
 Feom Habana, we went to Mexico by 
 steamer to Vera Cruz, and then by that 
 interesting and beautiful road by rail to 
 the capital, to witness the celebration of 
 the Mexican Centennial in 1910. We re- 
 mained about three months at Mexico 
 City, most pleasant and memorable ones 
 for us ; and especially for me those 
 months were very enjoyable, because I 
 was then in my teens and allowed to go 
 to all parties, even the most ceremonious 
 ones. 
 
 The whole month of September was de- 
 voted to the celebration of Mexico's cen- 
 tennial. On the sixteenth of that month 
 was the anniversary of one hundred 
 123 
 
124 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN 3IEXIC0 
 
 years of independence, as a free and pros- 
 perous Republic. 
 
 My father, who was Mexican Minister 
 to Cuba at that time, was also named to 
 assist with the Mexican delegation, and 
 my mother and I were asked to attend 
 to the wives and daughters of the foreign 
 delegates. Many of the ladies of Mexico 
 City's leading families were designated to 
 assist in entertaining these ladies, several 
 being assigned to each delegation. 
 
 Every country in the world sent dele- 
 gates, sometimes consisting of several 
 members and secretaries, also some na- 
 tions sent a war-ship to a Mexican port, 
 the marines landing and going to the 
 capital to be guests of Mexico and take 
 part in the parades. The United States 
 sent a numerous delegation of distin- 
 guished men, who took their wives. 
 Among the American delegates were 
 Senator Overman, Representative and 
 Mrs. James L. Slayden, Representative 
 and Mrs. Fairchild, Mr. Curtis Guild, 
 
THE MEXICAN CENTENNIAL 125 
 
 who was afterwards American Ambassa- 
 dor to Russia and died recently, and Mr. 
 James W. Gerard, later Ambassador to 
 Germany, and Mrs. Gerard. I had the 
 honor at a large banquet to be next to Mr. 
 Gerard at the dinner-table, and have his 
 signature on my menu, as I then asked 
 those around me to sign their names. I 
 have quite a collection of menus, and 
 programmes of nearly all the dinners, 
 luncheons, and dances I have attended, 
 also many clippings that speak of those 
 celebrations, and of my family and my- 
 self, as souvenirs of years gone by. 
 
 All the foreign guests were hospitably 
 received by the government and some of 
 the best homes in Mexico City were 
 placed at their disposal, where they lived 
 in comfort and luxury, everything being 
 provided for them by the Mexican gov- 
 ernment. 
 
 Mrs. Diaz, wife of the President, gave 
 a beautiful garden party at Chapultepec 
 castle, which was profusely decorated and 
 
126 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 illuminated for that occasion. A plat- 
 form had been erected in one of the halls, 
 where over fifty young ladies and young 
 men of Mexico's 61ite gave a concert, 
 the instruments used being mandolins, 
 guitars, and harps. Then others danced 
 dressed in Indian costumes of bright 
 colors and rich materials the typical 
 dances, as the "Jarabe," and also in 
 Spanish costumes the *' Jota " and " Sevil- 
 lanas." Afterwards the military band 
 played, and we all danced until a late 
 hour and also had a very delicious supper. 
 At the National Palace a grand ball 
 was given, the largest I have ever 
 attended. The principal interior court- 
 yard was transformed into a superb and 
 immense ball-room, which must have 
 cost a very high sum, as a complete floor 
 and a ceiling supported by iron columns 
 had to be constructed. The floor was 
 covered with canvas and the large pillars, 
 stone and iron ones, with winding dra- 
 peries, and there were thousands of 
 
THE MEXICAN CENTENNIAL 127 
 
 electric lights on the ceiling, walls, 
 pillars, and everywhere. 
 
 The rooms opening into that court- 
 yard on the first floor were furnished in 
 the styles of Louis XIV and Louis XV, 
 and there the guests could rest between 
 dances. Over ten thousand persons 
 attended this beautiful ball. The foreign 
 and Mexican delegates, diplomats, and 
 officers of war and navy wore uniforms, 
 adding to the brilliancy of that wonder- 
 ful scene. At one end there was an 
 elevated platform for the orchestra of 
 about one hundred and fifty musicians. 
 I shall never forget that ball and how 
 very much I danced and enjoyed myself. 
 We returned home with my parents 
 about four o'clock, and still it was going 
 on. I believe it ended near six or seven 
 in the morning. Other balls and recep- 
 tions were given, one at the Municipal 
 Palace and another at the Department 
 of Foreign Relations. Those although 
 not as large were also very grand and at- 
 
128 WHEN I WAS A GIBL IN MEXICO 
 
 tractive. Of course it was easier for 
 my partners to find me at those affairs, 
 as the ball-rooms were smaller and there 
 were fewer people. 
 
 Through the whole month of Septem- 
 ber during the celebrations, all the prin- 
 cipal business streets were decorated and 
 illuminated artistically and elaborately, 
 as well as all the public buildings, 
 Cathedral, many stores, etc. At night 
 those streets were crowded, and concerts 
 and moving pictures in the open air and 
 at the parks were given free for the 
 public. We were staying at the Hotel 
 Iturbide, the one I described in one of 
 the former chapters, and where we usually 
 stayed whenever we visited Mexico City 
 for a short time. The location of that 
 hotel on San Francisco Street, the prin- 
 cipal thoroughfare for the crowds, and 
 parades, made it most enjoyable for us, 
 as we could see from our balconies all the 
 excitement and interesting scenes, al- 
 though most of the parades we witnessed 
 
THE MEXICAN CENTENNIAL 129 
 
 from the National Palace balconies, all 
 the officials and foreign guests being 
 invited there on those occasions. The 
 President always reviewed the parades 
 from one of those balconies. 
 
 The most picturesque and typical 
 parade was a historical one, representing 
 the Spanish conqueror Herndn Cort6s 
 and party, as well as Montezuma, the 
 Aztec Emperor, surrounded by his 
 courtiers and countrymen following him. 
 Thousands of Indians were brought from 
 all over the country to take part, and 
 each wore the typical Indian costume of 
 those days, most elaborate in bright 
 colors, some wearing feathers in their 
 heads and carrying banners and their 
 antique weapons. The women wore also 
 the typical costume of bright colors and 
 many strings of beads in all colors 
 around their necks. As that parade 
 reached the National Palace they stopped 
 before the President's balcony, and began 
 to perform and represent portions of the 
 
130 WEEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 historical episodes during tiie conquest 
 of Mexico. It was indeed a beautiful, 
 interesting, and unique sight. 
 
 Another elaborate festivity given was 
 a garden party at the Automobile Club, a 
 fashionable one and located at Chapul- 
 tepec near the lake. The Club, and sur- 
 rounding grounds were ornamented, and 
 illuminated with hundreds of electric 
 lights among the trees, bushes, and 
 plants, and here and there tents were 
 placed, having inside tables with all 
 good things to eat for the invited 
 guests, who ran into the thousands. The 
 lake looked like fairy-land, and wonder- 
 ful fireworks, showing the burning of 
 castles, figures and a bombardment and 
 destruction of two battle-ships on this 
 lake were enacted, illuminating the sky 
 and surroundings as if all were in a blaze 
 and burning up. The driveways, roads, 
 and lawns near the Automobile Club 
 were thronged by the multitudes of non- 
 invited guests, rich and poor, young and 
 
TEE MEXICAN CENTENNIAL 131 
 
 old. It took us a very long time to 
 reach the Club, as so many people had 
 been invited, and although excellent 
 arrangements had been made for auto- 
 mobiles and carriages to follow each 
 other by specified roads, policemen being 
 stationed at various points to indicate the 
 way, it seemed slow and never-ending, 
 but after having witnessed that lovely 
 scene, it was worth while going through 
 that apparently endless route. 
 
 President Porfirio Diaz entertained at 
 two large banquets in honor of all the 
 foreign delegates. On the night that the 
 last one was given, all the invited guests 
 went to a theatrical performance given in 
 their honor at one of the leading theatres. 
 The entire balcony of the theatre was 
 turned into one continuous box, where 
 the most prominent delegates were seated. 
 They wore their brilliant uniforms and 
 the ladies were in full evening dress. 
 All this was an added attraction, as 
 seldom so many different uniforms, of all 
 
132 WEEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 nations, have been seen at a theatrical 
 performance. The theatre was splendidly 
 decorated with flags of all countries and 
 flowers, and brighty illuminated. 
 
Montezuma on His Throne. 
 Scene from Historical Parade during Mexican Centennial, 3910. 
 
 Aztec Warriors. 
 Another striking feature of the Historical Parade. 
 
CHAPTER XX 
 
 MEXICAN HOME LIFE. RETURN TO 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 After the Mexican Centennial we all 
 went back to Habana, as my father re- 
 turned there to his post. Soon after our 
 arrival my father was commissioned to 
 thank the Cuban government for having 
 sent a delegation to our Centennial cele- 
 brations. The Secretary of State gave in 
 his honor a large and beautiful banquet, 
 about one hundred and fifty persons at- 
 tending, officials, diplomats and Cuban 
 society, so in return my father gave an- 
 other banquet at Miramar Hotel to thank 
 the government for their courtesy. The 
 large dining-room was decorated with 
 flags of Cuba and Mexico and colors of 
 both countries, and the table was pro- 
 fusely ornamented with flowers in our 
 133 
 
134 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 colors, green, white and red, and at each 
 place a menu with the Cuban and Mexi- 
 can flags painted in one corner. After 
 ,dinner we went in to the gardens and had 
 coflee at small tables, the orchestra play- 
 ing patriotic airs of both countries, and 
 at the same time there were moving pic- 
 tures, as it was usual to have attractive 
 films during dinner parties or refresh- 
 ments served to the numerous persons 
 who often go to that attractive garden. 
 That evening they showed some interest- 
 ing views of Mexico and a few of the 
 Centennial celebrations, which we had 
 so recently personally witnessed. 
 
 Perhaps before terminating this little 
 book, it would be proper for me to say 
 something about Mexican home life, such 
 as I remember when I was a little girl in 
 my country. Children there were very 
 respectful and affectionate to their par- 
 ents ; the family ties were very close, and 
 the young people seemed to love their 
 
MEXICAN HOME LIFE 135 
 
 homes. The respect shown by the young 
 to their parents continued even when 
 more advanced in years, and it was a 
 usual thing to see men and women kiss 
 the hands of their father or mother, when 
 entering a room, and always embracing 
 and kissing them when retiring at night. 
 
 Mexican children were not very inde- 
 pendent, pushing, or self-reliant but at 
 the same time they were affectionate, 
 considerate, and obliging. From their 
 earliest years they showed a love of home 
 and of home life that is commendable. 
 Rarely would one hear of Mexican chil- 
 dren running away from home or leav- 
 ing their parents to seek a fortune, ad- 
 venture, or position away from them. 
 
 Of course girls in Mexico devote most 
 of their time to household duties and aid 
 their mothers in the discharge of such 
 duties, and although they went to school 
 or studied at home, they did not learn 
 things that would fit them for an active 
 or independent career, but instead out- 
 
136 WHEN I WAS A OIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 side of the usual studies, they took piano, 
 singing, and painting lessons and also 
 learned sewing, embroidery and other 
 womanly accomplishments. A few that 
 wished to support themselves or aid at 
 home became teachers, but it is only 
 lately that any have studied to become 
 clerks or stenographers. 
 
 As during my younger days servants 
 were plentiful and cheap, few girls had to 
 devote their time to household drudgery, 
 such as cooking, washing, or scrubbing. 
 
 There is a great deal of musical taste 
 in Mexico and children there love piano- 
 playing and singing, and girls, especially, 
 begin to study the piano and other in- 
 struments when very small, and often be- 
 come very good musicians. In my time 
 girls used to see and visit each other quite 
 often and become good and fast friends, 
 but they seldom formed societies or clubs, 
 as they do in the United States, but I 
 hear that they do so now in my country, 
 too. 
 
MEXICAN HOME LIFE 137 
 
 As is well known, girls in Mexico, and 
 in nearly every Latin- American country, 
 are not allowed to go out alone with 
 young men, the custom being that their 
 parents or a chaperone or one of their 
 brothers should also go, but as customs 
 are being modernized all over the world, 
 at present there is more liberty ; you often 
 see a group of girls and young men go 
 out together, without a chaperone. 
 
 Young people are very fond of danc- 
 ing, and the dances that become popular 
 in Europe and the United States very 
 soon find their way to Mexico, and so I 
 hear that now the fox-trot and one-step 
 are as popular in my country as here, 
 though of course the last time I was in 
 Mexico the waltz and two-step were then 
 the rage. I always have preferred the 
 old-fashioned waltz, although I must say 
 that dancing is one of my weaknesses, so 
 I enjoy almost any dance. 
 
 There are a great variety of sweetmeats 
 in Mexico, specialties of the country, and 
 
138 WHEN I WAS A GIRL IN MEXICO 
 
 of course the children are very fond of 
 them, like young people in this country. 
 Our typical cooking is also very good 
 and very different from American cook- 
 ing ; the " enchiladas/' " tamales," and 
 " tortillas " are decidedly popular there 
 and even foreigners likewise become fond 
 of such spicy dishes. I notice that now 
 many like them in the United States and 
 I know of several restaurants where Mexi- 
 can cooking is served. 
 
 Men smoke a good deal, the Mexican 
 tobacco being considered very good. The 
 boys begin to smoke at an early age, but 
 it is not practised by the girls or ladies, 
 as many are apt to suppose. Some old 
 ladies used to smoke but no young girl or 
 lady of refinement would be addicted to 
 this habit. 
 
 The women and children dress very 
 stylishly, following the fashions that 
 come from Europe, principally Paris, and 
 also many from the United States, but 
 some of the middle classes wear no hats 
 
MEXICAN HOME LIFE 139 
 
 but shawls or ** rebozos." The Indian 
 woman or girl wear their hair in braids 
 down their backs and also use the " re- 
 bozo " (a long narrow shawl with fringe 
 at both ends) ; those *^ rebozos " are gen- 
 erally in dark colors, some in stripes, and 
 their best is usually made of silk. 
 
 After staying a few months in Habana 
 we finally came again to Washington to 
 reside in the United States, a country 
 that I admire so much and in whose 
 people I feel such great interest. How- 
 ever, those feelings can never diminish 
 the love I have for my native country, 
 the land where my parents were born, 
 my beloved and dear Mexico. 
 
 The End 
 
CHRISTMAS EI LEGEND AND STORTt 
 
 A Book for Boys and Girls 
 
 Compaed by ELVA S. SMITH 
 
 Cataloguer of Children's Books, Carnegie Library, Pittsburgh, 
 
 and AUCE I. HAZELTINE 
 
 Supervisor of ChUdren's Work, St. Louis Public Library 
 
 Illustrated from Famous Paintings Net, $i .50 ; Postpaid, $1 .70 
 
 TN their experience in providing reading for 
 ■'■ children, these trained and efficient li- 
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 group the best of real literature regarding 
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 oiChxys\xa.z.%r— The Churchman. ^„'„t:„<rc 
 
 breathes from every page. The \lj?!^""i;°r^^_ attractive text."- Columbus 
 paintings, are an invaiuable embellishment of the attractive lexi. 
 
 out the year."— The Continmt. 
 
 For Bale by all bookBellers. or sent postpaid on receipt 
 of price l>y the pisblifiliers 
 
 Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co. Boston 
 
YULE-TIDE IN MANY LANDS 
 
 By MARY P. PRINGLE and CLARA A. URANN 
 
 Fully illustrated and decorated 
 12mo Cloth Price, $1.25 Net 
 
 'T^HE varying forms of Christmas ob- 
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 different lands are entertainingly shown 
 by one trained in choosing and present- 
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 symbolism, good cheer, and sentiment 
 of the grandest of holidays are shown 
 as they appeal in similar fashion to those 
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 first chapter tells of the Yule-Tide of the 
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 «ip the time of " Yule," or the turning of the sun, in England, 
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 one good illustration. 
 
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 interesting reading for all who love to come in loving contact with others 
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 "The way Yule-Tide was and is celebrated is told in a simple and 
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 excellent illustrations." — Cleveland Plain Dealer. 
 
 *'It is written for young people and is bound to interest them for the 
 i;ubiect is a universal one." — American Church Sunday School Magazine. 
 
 Por sale by all booksellers or seat postpaid on receipt 
 of price by tbe publishers 
 
 Lothrop, Lee 6i Shepard Co. Boston 
 
TOP~OF-THE-WORLD STORIES 
 
 Translated from the Scandinarian Language* 
 
 By EMILIE POULSSON and LAURA POULSSON 
 
 Illustrated in two colors by Florence Liley Young 
 Price, Net, $1.25 
 
 ^a^^i 
 
 T 
 
 HESE stories of magic and adven- 
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 the "top of the world," and will 
 transport thither in fancy the children 
 who read this unusual book. They 
 tell of Lapps and reindeer (even a 
 golden-homed reindeer ! ) , of prince 
 and herd-boy, of knights and wolves 
 and trolls, of a boy who could be 
 hungry and merry at the same time — 
 of all these and more besides ! Miss Poulsson's numerous 
 and long visits to Norway, her father's land, and the fact that 
 she is an experienced writer for children are doubtless the 
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 yet entirely adapted to give wholesome pleasure to the young 
 public that she knows so well. 
 
 "In these stories are the elements of wonder and magic and adventure 
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 the land of magic, of the fairies and all kinds of wonderful happenings. 
 It is one of the best fairy story books ever published." — Argics- Leader^ 
 Siottx Falls, S. D. 
 
 For sale by all booksellers or seat postpaid oa receipt 
 of price by the publishers 
 
 Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Co. Boston 
 
HOHE ENTERTAININQ 
 
 What to Do, and How to Do It 
 
 Sdited by WILLIAH E. CHENERY 
 92ano Cloth Price,> Net, $.73 Postpaid, $.SB 
 
 Home 
 Enter- 
 taining 
 
 i AMUSEMENTS 
 I FOR EVERY ONE 
 
 WILLIAM E CHEN£RV 
 
 'ipHIS Look is the product of years of stuc47] 
 and the practical trying~out ot every con-' 
 ceivable form of indoor entertainment. All the 
 gc^mes, tricks, puzzles, and rainy-day and social- 
 evenixig diversions have been practised by the 
 editor; many are original with him, and many 
 tha* are of course not original have been graatly 
 improved by his intelligence. All are told in the 
 plainest possible way, and with excellent taste. 
 The book is well arranged and finely printed. At 
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 very best of bright and jolly means of making 
 
 heme what it ought to be — ^the best piace for a good timj by those of ail 
 
 ages. 
 
 •• The book is brig^'ht ar i up to date, full of cheer and sunshine. A good 
 holiday hook.''*— 'Relig'iou^ x . Isscope^ Dayton, Ohio, 
 
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 *'A5tog'ether the book is a perfect treasure-house for the young people's rainy 
 day or social evening." — New bedjord Standards 
 
 *• The arrangement is excellent and the instructions so simple that a ctiild may 
 follow them. A book like this is just the thing for social evenings.'*— CAr«/«a» 
 Endeavor World. 
 
 " A book giving the best, cleanest and brightest games and tricks for homo 
 entertaining," — Syracuse Herald, 
 
 *'The Dook is clearly written and should prove of valne to every young majt 
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 ••Only good, bright, cieajs games and tricks appeal to Mr. C^isnery, and h, 
 iias told in we simplest as A JDOSt comprehensive manner bow to get up * amuse 
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 I M ^- , - I =i ^-~^. . — a i-i— ■— M»ig- 
 
 PlSfsalB WsXl hQiskseileim ar seat mi wmipi oigioatp^ 
 psiG-$ Iby the pubhsbers 
 
 LOTHROP. LEE &_ SHEPARS CO,. BOSIOK 
 
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS