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Fig. 408. — Toy Machine-Gun with Magazine that Holds Twelve Wooden 
 Cartridges (See Chapter 17). 
 
 Fig. 409. — Squad with Toy Maohine-Gun. The Helmets are Made of Tin 
 
 Wash-Basins. 
 

 CARPENTRY 
 
 & MECHANICS 
 
 FOR BOYS 
 
HANDICRAFT BOOKS 
 
 BY 
 
 A. NEELY HALL 
 
 8vo. Cloth. Illustrated -with hundreds of full-page 
 
 and working drawings by the author 
 
 and Norman P. Hall 
 
 THE BOY CRAFTSMAN . . . Price net $2.00 
 
 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS Price net $2.00 
 
 THE HANDY BOY .... Price net #2.00 
 
 HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS 
 
 AND BOYS Priced #1.25 
 
 HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS Price net $2.00 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS 
 
 FOR BOYS Price net $2.00 
 
 LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 
 
CARPENTRY 
 
 & MECHANICS 
 
 FOR BOYS 
 
 Up'to'tne-minute Handicraft 
 
 By jtkedyRtSL^ 
 
 j^umorof'lnoBqv Craftsman % 
 u "Handicraft for Handy Boys, 
 Home-made Toys fir Girls and Boys" 
 Handicraft for Handy Girls. 
 "%e Handy Boy "Etc. 
 
 VN^iWerssYeiUiiui^ ancLwark- 
 
 ing-orawings by tnc aumor andNormanPHall 
 
 BOSTON 
 
 LOTHROP. LEE &* SHEPARD CO. 
 
/fa£> 
 'tip,* 
 
 Copyright, 1918, By Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company 
 
 Published, December 1918. 
 
 All rights reserved. 
 
 Carpentry and Mechanics for Boys 
 
 DEC I i 1918 
 
 ©CI.A506865 
 
A boy with a hobby learns 
 independence of thought and action. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY NOTES 
 
 When the author produced "The Boy Craftsman," "Handicraft 
 for Handy Boys," "The Handy Boy," and "Home-made Toys for 
 Girls and Boys," he presented his latest developments in handicraft. 
 These books have been recognized generally as the most up-to-date 
 publications of their kind. Boys' handicraft, however, has felt war's 
 influence as has everything else. Wireless telegraphy, that most 
 popular of boys' hobbies, has been shelved for the duration of the war, 
 because of Government restrictions, and other activities have suffered 
 on account of the scarcity as well as the cost of materials. But new 
 fields of endeavor have been created. Aircraft, sea-craft, undersea- 
 craft, and land-craft are being reproduced in miniature; in fact, there 
 is no phase of modern warfare which boys are not investigating. 
 With universal military service for young men established in this 
 Country, and strong prospects of its becoming a permanent institu- 
 tion, junior war mechanics is a hobby likely to be perpetuated. 
 
 Because of boys' interest in these new lines of handicraft, the 
 author has been persuaded to bring out "Carpentry and Mechanics 
 for Boys." In this volume will be found plans for toy battleships, a 
 submarine, airplanes, miniature warfare, toy artillery, a machine-gun, 
 drill-guns, periscopes, etc. In addition to the war mechanics, Part I 
 presents workshop ideas, including plans for household conveniences, 
 furniture, and novelties. Part II presents plans for mechanical toys, 
 and Part III plans for backyard and camp. 
 
 Gardening has received an impetus never before known, as the 
 result of the food situation created by the war, so a number of chapters 
 have been devoted to plans for making garden accessories. Bird- 
 
vi INTRODUCTORY NOTES 
 
 house building in which there is an ever increasing interest, is treated 
 in six chapters. 
 
 A boy's earning capacity never has been so great as at the present- 
 time, nor has it been of so great importance. Many practical sug- 
 gestions for earning money will be found in this new book of handi- 
 craft. 
 
 All ideas in "Carpentry and Mechanics for Boys" have been carried 
 out successfully by boys, a test which the author requires of material 
 used in his handicraft books. Much of the material has appeared in 
 the author's handicraft department of "The American Boy," other 
 material has been published in "St. Nicholas," "The Ladies' Home 
 Journal," "Woman's Home Companion," "Suburban Life," in news- 
 papers, and in Sunday school weeklies. 
 
 Following the plan of his former volumes, the author has utilized 
 for the construction of work described in "Carpentry and Mechanics 
 for Boys" such materials as can be picked up at home, or procured for 
 little or nothing. The value of encouraging boys to reduce the cost 
 of their work to a minimum is three-fold. Of first importance, it 
 teaches the boy to conserve material. Of second importance, it 
 teaches him to be self reliant, to keep his material costs within his 
 earning capacity. His handicraft activities do not become an 
 endless drain upon father's pocket-book. Of third importance, it 
 teaches him resourcefulness, which will be valuable to him in business 
 life. Whether he becomes builder, manufacturer, engineer, architect, 
 mechanic, or a follower of any one of hundreds of occupations, his 
 success will depend largely upon how well he can utilize material, 
 upon how much he can produce with the least expense. 
 
 Providing the boy with books that show how to make things he 
 is interested in, is undoubtedly the solution of the problem of training 
 him to be industrious. Following the suggestions presented, he 
 becomes handy with tools, learns to convert raw materials into 
 finished products, gets the knack of combining brain work with hand 
 work, develops initiative. 
 
INTRODUCTORY NOTES vii 
 
 It is gratifying to the author to hear of his readers' success after 
 they have entered business life, and it interests him to note the large 
 percentage of readers who follow an occupation which served as a 
 school-day hobby. At the present writing, thousands of grown 
 "boy craftsmen" are in the service of the Government, helping win 
 the great war overseas. The author regrets that a list of the names 
 of these lads is unavailable, and that it is thus impossible to fly a 
 service flag with a star thereon for each reader serving with the colors. 
 And to the lads who have laid down their lives in the just cause for 
 which they have fought, he wishes that he might do fitting honor. 
 ! The author is always glad to hear from his readers, and will place 
 upon his mailing-list the names of those who make the request, that 
 they may receive information from time to time relating to handi- 
 craft activities. 
 
 A. N. H. 
 
 Elmhurst, Illinois, 
 May 31, 1918. 
 
PART I 
 THE HOME WORKSHOP 
 
 CHAPTER I 
 
 The Home Work-Bench 
 
 page 
 
 1 
 
 Work-Shop Ideas in the Author's Other Handicraft Books — 
 An Improvised Work-Bench — The Bench Top — The Bench-Vise 
 — A Bench-Stop — A Work-Bench with an Adjustable Vise — Bill 
 of Material — The Framework — ■ The Bench- Vise — To Attach 
 the Bench-Screw — Peg Supports for Work — A Bench-Stop — 
 Tool-Cabinets and Tool-Racks. 
 
 CHAPTER II 
 
 Scroll-Saw Problems 
 
 Saws — A Table to Cut Upon — Jig-Saw Picture Puzzles — The 
 Best Wood — Picture Material — Mounting — How to Cut Up a 
 Picture Puzzle — The T-Puzzle — Full-Size Patterns — The Square 
 Puzzle — The Patterns — The Prism Puzzle — A Seven-Piece Set 
 of Doll Furniture — Bird and Animal Cut-Outs. 
 
 14 
 
 CHAPTER III 
 
 Spool Gifts 
 
 Materials Required — A Candle-Stick — Finishing — A Desk 
 Calendar — A Stationery- Rack — A Pen-Rack — A Desk Blotter 
 — A Paper- Knife — A Paper-Spindle — A Toothpick Holder — 
 A Ripper — A Hatpin-Holder — A Necktie-Rack. 
 
 ix 
 
 33 
 
x CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER IV 
 
 Small Gifts In Wood 41 
 
 Material — A Stain and Wax Finish — The Calendar- Board and 
 Pen- Rack — The Post-Card Rack — The Book-Ends — The 
 Candle-Stick — The Match-Holder and Tray — The Egg- Rack — 
 A Desk Telephone Directory — A Time-Card Rack — A Wall 
 Telephone Directory — A Necktie-Rack — >A Necktie- or Towel- 
 Rack — An Electric-Lighted Watch Base — The Electric-Light 
 Attachment. 
 
 CHAPTER V 
 
 A Paper-Baler 57 
 
 The Base of the Baler — The Compressor Top — The Com- 
 pressor Lever — How the Paper-Baler is Operated. 
 
 CHAPTER VI 
 For Mother's Kitchen 63 
 
 A Kitchen Clock-Shelf — Finish for Kitchen Articles — A Tool- 
 Rack — A Milk-Card Rack — ■ A Recipe-Cabinet — The Cabinet — 
 The Drawer — The Envelope Containers — A Step-Ladder Stool — 
 The Ladder — The Side Rails — ■ The Steps — The Rear Legs — 
 The Top Step — The Struts — A Clothes-Line Reel — The Case 
 of the Reel — The Reel — The Crank Shaft — The Clothes- Line — 
 Hangers — Locking the Reel. 
 
 CHAPTER VII 
 
 For Mother's Sewing-Room. . . . . . .77 
 
 A Fancy- Work Frame — Spool-Spindles — A Sewing-Stand — 
 Assembling — Finishing the Woodwork — A Cretonne or Denim 
 Covering — A Waste-Basket — A Work-Bag on a Folding Support 
 — The Bag — A Fancywork-Box — Covering the Box — A Cloth 
 Pocket and Elastic Tapes — Spool-Spindles — A Fancywork-Box 
 with Legs — Cretonne Covering — The Sammy Spool-Holder — 
 A Needle Forms Sammy's Bayonet — Painting Sammy's Clothes — 
 A Yarn-Winder — Sweater Knitting Needles — Sock Knitting 
 Needles — Needle-Point Protectors — A Whisk-Broom Holder. 
 
CONTENTS xi 
 
 CHAPTER VIII 
 
 Box Furniture .......... 96 
 
 A Packing-Box Desk — Pigeon Holes — Finishing — A Desk-Stool — 
 Upholstering — Finishing — Covering for the Seat — A Waste- 
 Basket — Box Rockers — Warping the Barrel-Stave Rockers — A 
 Table — A Tabouret. 
 
 CHAPTER IX 
 
 Small Furniture Problems . . . . . . . .111 
 
 Material — Finishing — A Waste-Basket — A Tabouret — A 
 Plant-Stand — A Smoker's Stand — A Book-Trough and Magazine- 
 Stand — ■ A Telephone Table and Chair — The Table — The Chair. 
 
 PART II 
 WAR TOYS AND MECHANICAL TOYS 
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 A Toy Superdreadnought Battleship ...... 129 
 
 The Way to Make Simplified Models — Materials — The Hull — 
 The Superstructure-Deck — The Funnels — The Conning- Tower 
 — The Masts — The Wireless Aerial — Fighting-Tops — Turret 
 Bases and Turrets — Main-Battery Guns — Secondary-Battery 
 Guns — Flagstaff s — Deck-Rails — Keel Strips — Running-Gear — 
 Painting — Assembling. 
 
 CHAPTER XI 
 
 A Toy Submarine 139 
 
 The Mechanism — The Hull and Upper Decks — The Ballast 
 Pocket — The Trigger for Releasing the Ballast — Periscopes — 
 Painting — Submerging the Submarine Upon Lake or Pond. 
 
xii CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XII 
 
 A Fleet of Toy Battleships ....... 145 
 
 Fleet Maneuvers in Miniature — A Battleship — The Hull — The 
 Superstructure-Deck — The Masts — The Fighting-Tops — Funnels — 
 Conning-Tower — Gun Turrets — Main-Battery Guns — Second- 
 ary-Battery Guns — Spool Wheels — Wireless Aerial — A Cruiser — 
 The Hull — Superstructure-Deck — Gun Turrets — Main-Battery 
 Guns — Secondary-Battery Guns — Funnels — Masts — Fighting- 
 Tops — Assembling — Paddle- Wheel. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII 
 Toy Artillery and Miniature Warfare . . ... 156 
 
 Miniature Battles — A Field Artillery Gun — Shaping the Gun 
 
 — The Plunger — Testing the Gun — Three-Eighths-Inch Shells — 
 The Gun-Carriage — Wheels — Mounting the Gun — The Elevat- 
 ing Device — A Siege Gun — Shaping the Gun — The Plunger — 
 One-Half-Inch Sheels — The Gun Carriage — The Elevating Device 
 
 — Painting — A Fortification — Disappearing Guns — The Flag- 
 staff — Laying Out a Battlefield. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV 
 
 Sand-Motor Toys . 170 
 
 A Practical Sand- Motor — The Sand-Hopper — The Paddle- 
 Wheel — Shafting — Pulley- Wheels — Position of the Paddle- 
 Wheel — Sand for Motor — A Toy Trip-Hammer — A Toy Grind- 
 stone — A Teeter Toy — The Standard — The Hopper — The 
 Teeter — How the Teeter Toy Works — Doll Teeterers — A Sand 
 Scoop. 
 
 CHAPTER XV 
 
 A Toy Derrick-Crane With Clqckwork Motor. . . . 181 
 
 Clockwork for Toy Motors — The Pulley Wheel — Pulley-Belts — 
 Winding-Drums — The Motor-Shack — Installing the Motor — 
 A Turntable — The Derrick — The Beam — The Mast — The 
 Mast Pulley — The Boom — The Hoisting-Block — Cables — 
 Tracks. 
 
CONTENTS xiii 
 
 CHAPTER XVI 
 
 An Electro-Magnet Traveling Crane ..... 190 
 
 Possibilities with an Electro-Magnet — ■ The Crane Carriage 
 
 — Stick Tracks — The Electro-Magnet — The Switch — The 
 Hoisting-Cable. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII 
 
 A Toy Machine-Gun 196 
 
 How to Have Fun with the Toy Machine-Gun — The Gun-Stock 
 
 — The Barrel — The Front Sight — The Hammer Rod — The 
 Hammer Spring — The Firing-Crank — Dowel-Stick Cartridges 
 
 — The Magazine — The Tripod — Painting — A Helmet. 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII 
 
 Drill Guns ........... 210 
 
 Drill Clubs — A Simple Model of Drill-Gun — A Pattern for 
 Marking out Duplicate Stocks — The Barrel — The Trigger — 
 A Trigger-Guard — The Front Sight — The Rear Sight — Finishing 
 
 — A Springfield Rifle Model — The Stock and Barrel — The 
 Trigger and Trigger-Guard — The Front Sight — The Rear Sight 
 
 — Finishing — A Sling — Weight of a Springfield — To Increase 
 Weight of Drill-Guns — A Bayonet — A Scabbard. 
 
 PART III 
 
 BACK YARD AND CAMP CRAFT 
 
 CHAPTER XIX 
 
 Signalling .......... 220 
 
 The Two-Arm Semaphore System — A Hand Flag of Standard 
 Size — Memorizing the Code — ■ To Attract Attention — Numerals 
 
 — To Correct an Error — To Annul a Message — To Acknowledge 
 
 — To Signify Readiness — To Indicate a Negative Reply, an Affirm- 
 ative, a Question — ■ To Finish a Message. 
 
xiv CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XX 
 
 Simple Model Airplanes ........ 225 
 
 Principles which Govern Stability of Airplanes — The Matter 
 of Balance — The Center of Gravity and Center of Air Pressure — 
 To Make an Envelope Glide — An Envelope Glider — A Cardboard 
 Glider — A Sling-Shot Glider — The Sling-Shot — To Launch the 
 Sling-Shot Glider — The Aerial Top — To Spin the Top. 
 
 CHAPTER XXI 
 
 Tents for Hikes and the Back Yard . ..... 235 
 
 Utilizing Materials at Hand — The "A" Shelter Tent — For the 
 Tripod Tent — The Lean-To Tent — The Cage Tent. 
 
 CHAPTER XXII 
 Back Yard and Camp Fireplaces ...... 241 
 
 The Fireplace with Trenched Fire-Pit — The Fireplace with 
 Circular Fire-Pit — The Fireplace with Above-Ground Fire-Pit — 
 A Carnp Oven — A Wash-Boiler Camp Stove — A Fire Shovel — 
 A Camp-Fire Tripod. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII 
 Back Yard and Camp Lamps ....... 249 
 
 A Varnish-Can Lantern — A Lard-Pail Candle Lantern — ■ A 
 Tin-Can Candle-Holder — Another Tin-Can Candle-Holder — A 
 Candle Light-Fixture — A Bicycle-Lamp Bracket Light-Fixture — 
 A Candle Lamp-Post — Trench Candles. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV 
 
 A Bike Garage . 258 
 
 Caring for the Bicycle — Working Material for a Garage — The 
 Floor Framework — Laying the Floor — The Side Walls — Erect- 
 ing the Walls — The Roof — The Door • — A Cupboard — A Wheel- 
 Rack — A Runway — Painting — Make the Garage Tighter. 
 
CONTENTS xv 
 
 CHAPTER XXV 
 
 A Toboggan-Slide 266 
 
 Building a Slide in Cold Weather — • An Inexpensive Slide — 
 Building Material — The Platform Base — The Platform Railings 
 
 — The Step-Railings — Setting Up the Framework — Collecting 
 Snow for the Slide — The Platform — A Set of Steps — The Surface 
 of the Slide — If There is a Scarcity of Snow — A Plank Slide — 
 A More Elaborate Toboggan-Slide. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI 
 
 A Bob-Sled 275 
 
 Two Ways of Building a Bob-Sled — The Material Required — 
 The Sled Runners — ■ The Connecting Crosspieces — The Foot-Bar 
 
 — The Steering-Line" — The Sled Seats — The Bob-Sled Connecting 
 Seat — Upholstering the Seat — The Hand-Rails — Runner Shoes 
 
 — Painting. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII 
 A Snow-Fort Periscope ........ 284 
 
 Advantage of a Periscope for Defenders of a Snow Fort — How 
 Periscope is Used — Material Required — - Cutting Out the Parts — 
 To Assemble the Box — The Openings — Handles — Painting the 
 Periscope Box. 
 
 PART IV 
 
 GARDEN CRAFT 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII 
 
 A Hotbed 293 
 
 Principle of the Hotbed — Size to Make It — A Single-Sash 
 Hotbed — The Framework — To Assemble the Framework — 
 Digging the Pit — Filling the Pit — A Cold-Frame. 
 
xvi CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX 
 
 Seed Boxes and Paper Pots 298 
 
 Starting Plants Early — Seed-Flats — ■ Filling — Miniature 
 Greenhouses — A Greenhouse with a Lean-To Roof — A Green- 
 house with a Gable Roof — Painting — Paper Pots — A Pot Made 
 From a Cardboard Box — Circular Pots. 
 
 CHAPTER XXX 
 
 Plant Shields and Forcers. ....... 305 
 
 Protecting Transplantings — A Paper-Funnel Shield — A Flower- 
 Pot Shield — A Basket Shield — A Tin Can Shield and Forcer — 
 A Plant Forcer. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI 
 Flower-Boxes 309 
 
 Making Flower-Boxes to Sell — Material for Boxes — Finishing 
 
 — A Window or Porch Box — Feet — A Plant-Tub — A Plant- 
 Stand — A Hanging-Box — ■ Suspending the Box — Metal Liners — 
 Removing Surplus Water — A Satisfactory Drain — Planting in 
 Metal-Lined Boxes — A Hanging-Basket. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII 
 Garden Accessories ......... 319 
 
 A Tin Can Sprinkler — A Dibble — An Umbrella-Handle Dibble 
 
 — A Planting Trencher — A Seed Basket — Garden Markers — 
 How to Put Up Strings for Vines — Tomato- Racks. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII 
 Racks and Trays for Canning Time ...... 325 
 
 Apparatus for the Cold-Pack Method of Canning — A Wash- 
 Boiler Rack — A Rack Suspended over a Stove — A Drying- Tray to 
 Stand upon a Stove — A Sun Dryer — A Rack for Ripening Tomatoes 
 
 — Making Racks and Trays to Sell. 
 
CONTENTS xvii 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV 
 A Lawn Roller 331 
 
 Earning Money by Rolling Lawns — Material Required for Lawn 
 Roller — The Centering Platform — To Locate the Center for the 
 Axle — The Center of the Flange End — The Concrete Mixture — 
 Pouring the Concrete — The Initial Set — Removing the Tile Pipe 
 
 — The Iron Pipe Handle Frame — Painting the Handle Frame. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV 
 
 Bird Houses . . . . . . . . . . 336 
 
 Nature's Provision for Balance in Insect Life — Re-establishing 
 Nature's Balance — Bird-House Campaigns — A Good All-the- 
 Year Around Activity — The American Bird-House League — 
 Work to be Proud Of — A Boy's Bird-House Factory — Right 
 Dimensions for Houses — The Height Above Ground to Place the 
 Houses — A Chart of Correct Dimensions — Materials for Bird- 
 House Building — Finishing. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI 
 Wren Houses 343 
 
 Wren Requirements — Wren House No. 1 — Wren House No. 2 
 
 — Wren House No. 3 — Finishing. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII 
 
 Robin Shelters ......... 348 
 
 Robin Requirements — Robin Shelter No. 1 — Robin Shelter 
 No. 2. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII 
 
 Woodpecker Houses 353 
 
 Woodpecker Requirements — Woodpecker House No. 1 — Wood- 
 pecker House No. 2. 
 
xviii CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIX 
 
 A Bluebird'House . 358 
 
 Bluebird Requirements — A Hanging-House — Doorways — ■ 
 Assembling the House — ■ A Removable Floor — Perch-Sticks — A 
 House on a Pole — An Iron-Pipe Support — A Permanent Way of 
 Erecting the Pipe. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXX 
 
 A Martin House 364 
 
 Martin Requirements — ■ Building Material — ■ The First Story 
 Frame — Cutting the Doorways — Nailing Together the Frame 
 Boards — Preparing the Floor Boards — Cutting the Gable-Ends 
 — The Roof Boards — Brackets — The Chimney — Support for 
 the House — ■ A Concrete Base — Setting Up the Martin House. 
 
 Index 373 
 
LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 (In addition to more than 700 text illustrations) 
 
 PART I 
 
 Fig. 408. — Toy Machine-Gun with Magazine that Holds 
 
 Twelve Wooden Cartridges 
 Fig. 409. — Squad with Toy Machine-Gun 
 
 Frontispiece 
 
 OPPOSITE PAGE 
 
 Fig. 8. — 
 Kind 
 
 Fig. 53. — 
 
 g. T6. — 
 
 53. 
 
 54. 
 
 55. 
 
 56. 
 
 57. 
 
 58.' 
 
 70. 
 
 71. 
 
 72.. 
 
 73. 
 
 74.- 
 
 75.- 
 
 87.- 
 
 88.- 
 
 89.- 
 
 90.- 
 
 176. 
 
 177. 
 
 178. 
 
 201. 
 
 211. 
 
 212. 
 
 213. 
 
 214. 
 
 g. ail, — 
 
 Corner of the Author's Work-Shop, Showing the Right 1 
 of Work-Bench for a Boy to Build \ 
 
 Candle-Stick 
 
 Desk Calendar 
 
 Stationery- Rack 
 
 Pen- Rack 
 
 Desk Blotter 
 
 Paper-Knife 
 
 Calendar-Board and Pen-Rack ' 
 
 Post-Card Rack 
 
 Book-Ends 
 
 Candle-Stick 
 
 Match-Holder and Tray 
 
 Egg-Rack 
 
 Telephone-Directory 
 
 Necktie-Rack 
 
 Necktie- or Towel-Rack 
 
 Electric-Lighted Watch Base 
 
 - Desk Made of Packing-Box and Lattice-Strips 
 
 - Desk Stool with Box Top 
 
 - Waste- Basket with Box Base 
 Two Box Rockers, a Table and a Tabouret 
 Waste- Basket 
 Tabouret 
 Plant-Stand 
 Smoker's Stand _ 
 
 xix 
 
 34 
 
 42 
 
 48 
 
 96 
 108 
 
 114 
 
xx LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 OPPOSITE PAGE 
 
 Fig. 230. — Book-Trough and Magazine-Stand 1 110 
 
 Fig. 231. — Telephone Table and Chair 
 
 PART II 
 
 Fig. 251. — A Superdreadnought Toy Battleship 
 
 Fig. 268. — A Toy Submarine that Dives then Rises to the Water's } 129 
 
 Surface J 
 
 F 
 F 
 F 
 F 
 F 
 F 
 F 
 F 
 F 
 
 g. 30-1. — Miniature Battles Can be Fought Scientifically ] 
 g. 305. — Field Artillery Gun 156 
 
 g. 306. — Siege Artillery Gun J 
 
 g. 345. — Toy Machinery can be Operated by the Sand-Motor 1 ._„ 
 
 g. 346. — Sand-Motor Teeter-Toy 
 
 g. 373. — The Toy Derrick-Crane with Clockwork Motor 
 g. 374. — Boom and Cable can be Operated Simultaneously 
 g. 442. — Making Drill-Guns 
 
 g. 443. — Squad at "Port Arms" (Equipped with Home-Made | 210 
 Drill-Guns and Wash-Basin Helmets) - J 
 
 182 
 
 .1 
 
 PART III 
 
 Two- Arm Semaphore Signalling by a Patrol of the Author's Troop of 
 
 Boy Scouts of America, Elmhurst, Illinois j 221 
 
 Fig. 518. — Using the Shelf-Bracket Camp-Stove Tripod 
 
 Fig. 519. — A Varnish-Can Lantern ; ' 248 
 
 Fig. 554. — A Bob-Sled of which any Boy Might be Proud . . .276 
 
 Fig. 571. — While Protected by the Snow Fort, You Watch the ] 
 
 Enemy Through the Periscope | 284 
 
 Fig. 572. — Front View of Periscope 
 
 PART IV 
 
 Fig. 581. — A Four-Sash Hot-Bed 
 Fig. 711. — First Story in Place 
 Fig. 712. — Adding the Second Story 
 Fig. 713. — Third Story 
 Fig. 714. — Ready for the Martins 
 
 293 
 
LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 OPPOSITE PAGE 
 
 Fig. 
 
 613.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 614. — 
 
 Fig. 
 
 615.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 616.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 617.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 652. — 
 
 Fig. 
 
 658.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 665.— 
 
 
 Public 5 
 
 Fig. 
 
 669.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 670.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 671.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 671.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 672.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 684.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 685.— 
 
 Fig. 
 
 686.— 
 
 Window or Porch Box 
 Plant-Tub 
 Plant-Stand 
 Hanging-Box 
 Hanging- Basket 
 Sun Dryer for Vegetables 1 
 A Concrete Lawn-Roller j 
 
 Bird-Houses Entered in a Contest Held by the Pittsburgh 
 Schools 
 
 Wren House No. 1 
 Wren House No. 2 
 Wren House No. 3 
 Robin Shelter No. 1 
 Robin Shelter No. 2 
 Woodpecker House No 
 Woodpecker House No 
 Bluebird House 
 
 310 
 
 330 
 336 
 
 344 
 354 
 
PART I 
 
 For Workshop 
 and Home 
 
CHAPTER I 
 
 THE HOME WORK-BENCH 
 
 It has been the author's custom to begin his handicraft 
 books with several chapters on the selection, care and 
 handling of tools, the construction of cabinets and chests to 
 hold them, the making of handy shop equipment, the pre- 
 paration of work, and the finishing thereof. In fact, boys 
 who own all of the volumes have in their possession the 
 equivalent of a school course in manual- training. 
 
 If you want to know about different forms of tools, what 
 operations they are intended for, and what tools you will 
 require for home carpentry, you will find the information in 
 Chapter II of Handicraft for Handy Boys, you will learn 
 how to handle tools properly by reading Chapter II of 
 The Boy Craftsman, you will discover handy methods of 
 doing things in Chapter III of The Handy Boy. Chapter 
 III of Handicraft for Handy Boys will give you instruc- 
 tion in manual-training problems, Chapter IV of the same 
 volume will tell you about wood finishing, and Chapter V 
 will show you how to prepare working-drawings. The 
 making of tool-chests, tool-cabinets and work-benches is 
 described in The Boy Craftsman, Handicraft for Handy 
 Boys, and The Handy Boy, and the last named volume 
 contains plans for building a small backyard work-shop. 
 
 The author knows that most of you readers of Carpentry 
 
 l 
 
2 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 and Mechanics for Boys will not be satisfied until you 
 have added one or more of his other books to your library, 
 and, therefore, in writing this book, he has touched but 
 lightly upon subjects contained therein. The subject of 
 work-benches has not been exhausted, however, so further 
 suggestions have been brought together in this first chapter. 
 
 To accomplish anything worth while in carpentry or 
 mechanics, you must have a means of holding your work 
 securely for planing, sawing, drilling, and other operations 
 — a work-bench. Possibly there is no space at home 
 available for a work-shop, possibly you are denied even 
 enough working space in which to set up a permanent work- 
 bench, because of living in an apartment building. Under 
 these conditions you need not be deterred from doing home 
 carpentry, however, even though you may have to work 
 under difficulties. You can provide yourself with 
 
 An Improvised Work-Bench like one the author used when 
 he lived in an apartment. This bench, shown in Figs, i 
 and 2, requires the use of mother's kitchen table, but the 
 table is not altered or injured in any way, so there should 
 be no reason for your not requisitioning it when it is not in 
 the service of the culinary department, if mother does not 
 object to your working in her kitchen. I believe that after 
 you have demonstrated once or twice that you can and will 
 clean up your scraps of wood, shavings, and sawdust when 
 you are through working, leaving the kitchen as tidy as it 
 was before you began to work, mother will have no objec- 
 tion. 
 
 You can make the work-bench attachment quickly, and 
 
THE HOME WORK-BENCH 
 
 Fig. 1. - You Must Have a Work-Bench if that Bench be nothing 
 than a Kitchen Table 
 
 more 
 
 Fig. 2. -A Kitchen Table with its Improvised Bench-Top Clamped 
 
4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 it requires but an instant to attach and detach it. Once 
 father discovers its convenience, he probably will make 
 constant use of it when tinkering. 
 
 Figure 3 shows 
 
 The Bench-Top. This is built to set over the front edge 
 of the table (Fig. 2), and is held in position with a pair of 
 iron curtain-stretcher clamps (Figs. 6 and 7). Make top A 
 and apron B of boards 10 inches wide by the length of the 
 table. Bore four or five rows of holes ^4-inch in diameter 
 through apron B (Fig. 4). Space the rows about 12 inches 
 apart. To get the holes in straight rows, rule lines across 
 the board on which to locate the hole centers. The holes 
 are provided for wooden pegs G (Fig. 3). These pegs can 
 be adjusted to the right heights and to the right distances 
 apart, for supporting pieces of work of varied lengths (Fig. 2). 
 Blocks C, nailed to the back of apron B at the ends (Fig. 4), 
 should be cut of a thickness equal to the amount of projec- 
 tion of the table- top, so that when top A is nailed to the 
 edge of apron B, and the two are slipped over the front 
 edge of the table, blocks C will rest against the front table 
 legs. 
 
 The Bench-Vise fastens to the left of the apron. It is 
 built of pieces D and E (Fig. 5). Cut strip D 3 inches wide 
 and 10 inches long, and nail it to apron B, then cut jaw block 
 E 6 inches long and 10 inches wide, bevel its inner right-hand 
 edge as shown, and nail it to strip D with the beveled edge 
 turned in and projecting. Cut the pieces with the grain 
 running as indicated. You will see by Fig. 2 how pieces 
 D and E form a pocket into which to slide the ends of pieces 
 
THE HOME WORK-BENCH 
 
 fe<--H 
 
 BENCH -TOP 
 TABLE 
 
 Fig. 7 
 
 Fig. 6 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Make the Detachable Bench-Top for the Table Work-Bench, 
 like This 
 
 Fig. 4. — This is how the Bench-Top is Built Up 
 Fig. 5. — Detail of Vise 
 Figs. 6 and 7. — The Ends of the Bench-Top are Clamped to the Table 
 
6 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 of work, and how the work is wedged in with a beveled block 
 F (Fig. 3). 
 
 Block H (Figs. 3 and 4) is a 
 
 Bench-Stop to push work against when working on the top 
 of the bench. Make a "V ' cut in the right -hand end as shown. 
 
 In Fig. 8, a corner of the author's work-shop, is shown. 
 
 A Work-Bench With an Adjustable Vise. If you have 
 
 MATERIAL 
 
 PIECES 
 
 DIMENSIONS 
 
 PARTS 
 
 4 
 
 2" x4"x 2-4" 
 
 LEGS A 
 
 2 
 
 X •■ X t. 
 
 CROSSPIECES B 
 
 2 
 
 1" x4"x 
 
 RAILS C 
 
 7 
 
 1" x4"s 
 
 BRACESD&G 
 
 I 
 
 1" x|CTx5'-6" 
 
 APRON E 
 
 2 
 
 1 " x 4" x 4'- 0" 
 
 RAILS F 
 
 3 
 
 2" x)o"x 5'-6" 
 
 TOP H 
 
 1 
 
 2" x 6"x2'-4" 
 
 VISE JAW I 
 
 1 
 
 3/4"x 3"x |8" 
 
 SLIDING- STRIP J 
 
 Fig. 9.— Bill of Material for Work-Bench 
 
 room for a permanent bench, this is the right kind to build. 
 Details of its construction are shown in Figs. 10 to 17. 
 
 A Bill of Material is given in Fig. 9. Several small pieces 
 in addition to this material will be needed, but you can 
 probably pick these up in the kindling-wood pile. Maple 
 makes the best top, but you will find, as the author has 
 found, that a pine top is plenty good enough, and of course 
 it is much less expensive. Be careful not to cut up the 
 surface with sharp-edged tools, and the pine top will keep 
 in good condition for a long time. You will appreciate a 
 
~Mm 
 
 -*^i 
 
 its 
 
 m 
 
 Fig. 8. — Corner of the Author's Work-Shop, Showing the Right Kind 
 of Work-Bench for a Boy to Build. 
 
THE HOME WORK-BENCH 7 
 
 soft wood top many times when you have occasion to drive 
 in a nail for a temporary stop or for some other purpose. 
 
 If there is no lumber yard or mill nearby, get acquainted 
 with a carpenter and have him buy the material for you. 
 Or, if a new building is being erected in your neighborhood, 
 go to the carpenter foreman and see if you cannot buy from 
 
 Fig. 10. — Front View of Work-Bench 
 
 him what is needed. Two-by-ten floor joists will be just 
 the thing for the top planking. 
 
 The Framework is shown in Fig. 13, a front view of the 
 completed bench is shown in Fig. 10 and an end view in 
 Fig. 11. If you are less than 4 feet 6 inches tall, I would 
 suggest that you make your bench 28 inches high instead 
 
CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 of the height given in Fig. n. This will mean cutting the 
 legs 4 inches shorter than the given dimensions. 
 
 The end frames 
 
 of the framework H^ 
 
 should be con- -r- ^ * * ~p\\ \~Hs 
 
 structed first (Fig. 
 12). Spike cross- 
 pieces B to the top 
 of legs A, and nail 
 rails C to the side 
 of the legs 3 inches 
 above the bottom. 
 Test the corners 
 formed by legs A and I l 
 cross pieces B, and 
 when they prove to 
 be exact right 
 
 angles, nail on the diagonal braces D. Cut these braces 
 longer than is necessary, so that after nailing them in 
 position you can saw off their ends flush with the sides 
 of the legs. Having completed the frames, cut rails F and 
 nail them to the legs on a line with lower rails C (Fig. 13). 
 Then measure the distance between the frames at their tops, 
 nail a board across crosspieces B to hold the tops at exactly 
 the same distance apart as the lower ends, and after testing 
 the end frames to see that they stand perfectly vertical, 
 nail on the diagonal braces G. 
 
 Ten-inch stuff planed upon all edges usually measures 
 between 9^ and 9^ inches in width. Therefore, three 
 
 Fig. 11. — Left-End View of Work-Bench 
 
THE HOME WORK-BENCH 
 
 pieces placed side by side, with 
 the front plank projecting % inch 
 over the end frames, to allow for 
 the thickness of apron E (H, Figs. 
 10 and n), will be of just the right 
 width for the bench-top. Make 
 the projections over the ends of 
 the framework equal, and spike 
 the planks to crosspieces B. Drive 
 the nail heads about Y 2 inch below f 
 the surface, so your edge tools will L 
 not come in contact with them. 
 Figure 10 shows how the ends of 
 apron E should be trimmed off. 
 Nail the apron to the bench legs. 
 
 The Bench- Vise is the next 
 portion to construct. You need an iron bench-screw like 
 that in Fig. 15 for the vise. This can be purchased at the 
 hardware store. You can make the rest of the vise by 
 following the details of Figs. 11, 14, 15, 16, and 17. 
 
 The jaw (I, Fig. 14) is a piece of 2 by 6. Mark it out as 
 shown in Fig. 17, with the lower end drawn so as to be 
 sawed off on a diagonal, the left-hand edge so as to be 
 notched to receive the sliding-strip /, and the top so as to 
 be beveled on the face side. The sliding-strip / is a guide 
 for the lower end of the vise jaw. With a peg to fit in its 
 holes, this strip provides a means for keeping the bottom of 
 the jaw directly under the top. Without this attachment, 
 it would be impossible to clamp work in the vise, because 
 
 Fig. 12. — Detail of End Frame 
 
io CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the jaw would push in at the bottom, and could not be made 
 to set squarely against your work. The holes in the sliding- 
 strip should be H inch in diameter, and they should be 
 staggered as shown, with their centers placed i% inches 
 
 Fig. 13. — Detail of Completed Framework, Showing Bracing 
 
 apart. The sleeve through which the sliding-strip slides 
 (Figs, io, ii, and 14) is made by nailing one end of a strip 
 K to rail C, and the other end to a block L of the same 
 thickness as C, fastened $}4 inches above rail C. Suspend 
 a peg (M, Fig. 14) from block L by a cord tied to screw-eyes 
 screwed into the end of the peg and block L. 
 
 To Attach the Bench-Screw, slip sliding-strip J through 
 
THE HOME WORK-BENCH 
 
 ii 
 
 its sleeve and push the jaw up against apron E; then, 7 
 inches below the top of the jaw, mark the center for the hole 
 through which the bench-screw is to turn, and cut a hole at 
 this point through the jaw, through the apron and through 
 the bench leg. This hole should be 1 3^ inches in diameter. 
 
 Fig. 14 
 
 Fig. 16 
 
 Fig. 14. — Completed Bench- Vise 
 
 Fig. 15. — Iron Bench-Screw 
 
 Fig. 16. — Threaded Iron Socket and Wooden Block in which it is Mounted 
 
 Fig. 17. — Detail of Vise Jaw and Sliding-Strip 
 
 If you haven't an expansive-bit which can be set to cut a 
 hole of this diameter, bore several small holes, and with a 
 chisel connect them, making one large hole. The iron 
 socket which comes with the bench-screw (N, Fig. 16) must 
 
12 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 be fastened to the back of the bench leg. If the threads on 
 the bench-screw run close to the handle end as shown in 
 Fig. 15, the hole in the bench-leg can be enlarged and the 
 socket set into the hole, but the threads upon some bench- 
 screws stop 3 inches from the handle end, and, if you get 
 one of these, it will be necessary to set the iron socket into 
 a wooden block (0, Fig. 16), and spike this block to the 
 back of the leg (Fig. 11); if this is not done, the vise jaw 
 cannot be screwed up close to the face of the jaw, and the 
 vise cannot be closed. Screw the iron collar on the handle 
 end of the bench-screw to the face of the jaw. 
 . The wooden handle that comes with a bench-screw (Fig. 
 15) is not of much account, because the constant sliding 
 through the iron sleeve, from end to end, loosens the ends, 
 making it necessary to glue them on every now and then. 
 A better handle is a piece of broom-handle 16 inches long 
 with a large screw-eye screwed into each end,' like that 
 shown in Fig. 14. The author uses a handle of this form 
 on his vise, as you will see by Fig. 8. 
 
 Peg Supports for Work. Upon the front of the bench 
 apron E, two rows of holes about % inch in diameter should 
 be bored, as shown in Fig. 10, and a peg (P, Fig. 10) should 
 be whittled to fit each row. Suspend the pegs by cords, 
 so they will always be within reach when wanted. The 
 purpose of these pegs is to support the right-hand end of 
 long pieces of work; they can be adjusted to the holes which 
 will suit the width of the piece of work placed in the vise. 
 
 A Bench-Stop on the top of the bench is very useful to 
 push the end of work against when you cannot or do not 
 
THE HOME WORK-BENCH 13 
 
 wish to place the work in the vise. A block of wood screwed 
 to the bench-top will do (H, Figs. 3 and 4), but an adjustable 
 iron stop can be purchased at the hardware store which 
 will be handier. 
 You will get some ideas for the arrangement of 
 Tool -Cabinets and Tool -Racks from the photograph of 
 the author's shop (Fig. 8), but, as stated at the beginning 
 of this chapter, you are referred to The Boy Craftsman, 
 Handicraft for Handy Boys, and The Handy Boy for 
 instructions for making them. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 
 
 It is not necessary to have a scroll-saw for the scroll-saw 
 problems illustrated and described in this chapter. In fact, 
 most of the scroll-saw work now done by boys is with a 
 hand bracket-saw like that shown in Fig. 18, or with the 
 
 Fig. 18.— 
 A Bracket-Saw 
 
 Fig. 19 — 
 A Coping- Saw 
 
 slightly different form of saw shown in Fig. 19, known as a 
 coping-saw. The cheaper makes of bracket-saws can be 
 purchased for 10 cents, and a dozen saw blades — you will 
 need a dozen as they are slender and easily broken — cost 
 10 cents. A good coping-saw costs in the neighborhood of 
 
 14 
 
SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 15 
 
 a dollar, and the blades, which are usually not as delicately 
 made as bracket-saw blades, cost 5 cents apiece. A foot- 
 power scroll-saw costs between $8 and $10. . 
 
 Scroll-saw work may be done outside of a workshop, if 
 
 Fig. 20. — Board Protection for Table-Top 
 
 papers are spread to catch sawdust and wood scraps. You 
 can use 
 
 A Table to Cut Upon. The surface must be protected of 
 course, so there will be no danger of sawing into it, and 
 Fig. 20 shows how to protect it with a board clamped to 
 the table top. An iron G-clamp, such as is sold for curtain- 
 stretchers can be purchased for 5 cents. Cut two notches 
 in the front edge of the protection board, as shown. The 
 purpose of the notches is to provide openings for the saw. 
 With the block to be sawed placed upon the board, the 
 saw can be worked up and down in one notch or the other 
 
i6 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 without danger of 
 splitting the work, 
 because the block 
 will be supported 
 each side of the 
 point of cutting. 
 Figure 21 shows the 
 correct position for 
 sawing. Turn the 
 piece of work with 
 the left hand as the 
 cutting progresses. 
 
 If you use your 
 work-bench vise to 
 hold your work, you 
 can place the work 
 in a vertical posi- 
 tion, and saw horizontally instead of vertically. 
 
 One of the most popular scroll-saw stunts at the present 
 time is the making of 
 
 Jig-Saw Picture Puzzles, a form of puzzle with which 
 you probably already are acquainted — thin pieces of board 
 with pictures mounted upon them, cut up into small irre- 
 gular-shaped pieces, which are mixed up, then fitted together 
 in the proper manner to make up the picture. They are 
 called jig-saw puzzles because, when made in quantity, a 
 number of thicknesses of wood are cut at one time, and a 
 jig-saw, or form of scroll-saw built for cutting thick 
 material, was originally used for the purpose. The 
 
 Fig. 21. — Correct Method of Using the 
 Bracket-Saw 
 
SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 
 
 17 
 
 modern band-saw has superseded the jig-saw almost uni- 
 versally. 
 
 The Best Wood for scroll-saw work is white-holly veneer 
 y s inch thick, but it is expensive, costing about 15 cents a 
 square foot, and the wood is not easy to obtain. Next to 
 
 Fig. 22. — How to Cut up a Picture Puzzle 
 
 white-holly, basswood is to be preferred. You can get 
 this wood 3/16 inch thick at most planing-mills at 4 or 5 
 cents a square foot, and often you can pick up waste scraps 
 which the mill-man will let you have for little or nothing. 
 
 The size of wood you can get for picture puzzles will 
 determine the size of pictures you can use, and, likewise, 
 the size of suitable pictures that you find will determine the 
 size of wood mounts. Since picture blocks may warp, and 
 large blocks will warp to a greater degree than small ones, 
 
1 8 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 I would advise the making of small blocks. A standard 
 size for store puzzle blocks is 3 by 5 inches, which is large 
 enough to cut into as many as twenty-five parts, if you cut 
 the pieces small. 
 
 You will have no difficulty finding good 
 
 Picture Material in magazines. Pictures in color are 
 preferable to those in black and white. If those you select 
 are not printed in color, you can try your hand at paint- 
 ing them with water-colors, or tinting them with colored 
 crayons. 
 
 Mounting. Mount a picture upon each side of the 
 blocks. This will make the puzzles more difficult to assemble 
 and the paper will hold the wood flat and prevent its splitting. 
 If you mount paper upon only one side, the wood will warp. 
 For this reason, it is best to mount paper upon both sides 
 of the blocks, even though the paper on one side is a blank 
 piece. Use glue or shellac for mounting. Coat the surface 
 of the block copiously, put the picture in position, press 
 it down, and weight it until dry. To smooth out wrinkles, 
 lay a clean piece of paper over the mounted piece, and rub 
 the edge of a ruler over the paper. This will squeeze out 
 surplus glue. 
 
 Figure 22 suggests 
 
 How To Cut Up a Picture Puzzle. You can draw out 
 the cuts upon the mounted picture, or you can decide upon 
 the shapes of the cuts as you work, if you wish. The saw 
 teeth will leave a rough edge to the cuts, on one side of 
 the block, you will find. To prevent the roughness, which 
 would spoil the picture upon that side, back the block with 
 
SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 
 
 19 
 
 another thin piece of wood, and hold the two pieces firmly 
 together while you cut. 
 While making puzzles, let us make a model of 
 The T-Puzzle,a famous old puzzle that is more difficult 
 to assemble than it 
 looks. Figure 23 
 shows it put to- 
 gether. The key 
 to the solution lies 
 in properly placing 
 the irregular-shaped 
 block at the inter- 
 section of the ver- 
 tical and horizontal 
 members of the 
 ietter. Once you get 
 the position of this, 
 the other pieces are easily assembled. 
 
 Full-Size Patterns of the four blocks are given in Fig 24. 
 
 Fig. 23. — The T-Puzzle 
 
 Fig. 24. — Full-Size Patterns for the T-Puzzle Blocks 
 
20 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Make a careful tracing of them upon thin paper, and transfer 
 the tracings upon a strip of wood. Cut out the pieces care- 
 
 FiG. 25. — The Square Puzzle 
 
 I PIECE -LIKE -THIS 
 
 7- PIECES LIKE THIS 
 
 Fig. 26. — Full-Size Patterns for the Square-Puzzle Blocks 
 
 fully, and smooth the edges with sandpaper, then fit them 
 together, and trim up all ends and edges that require it. 
 The Square Puzzle, shown correctly assembled in Fig. 25, 
 
SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 
 
 21 
 
 is another interesting puzzle to make. It requires nine 
 blocks. Figure 26 shows 
 
 FlG. 27. — Cut the Square Puzzle Blocks out of a Strip like this 
 
 The Patterns. If you will trace off the patterns as shown 
 in Fig. 27, with the blocks placed end to end, you can prepare 
 a strip of the right width to 
 take in the blocks and then saw 
 it up. These blocks must be 
 carefully finished so they will be 
 of exactly the right size, or they 
 will not fit together nicely to 
 make the square. 
 
 The Prism Puzzle presents 
 
 one of the" most interesting of 
 
 the simpler scroll-saw problems. 
 
 It is easy to make. 
 
 The first thing to do is to pre- 
 pare a stick 1 Y 2 inches square. 
 
 The length of the finished block 
 
 will be 4.% inches, but do not 
 
 cut the block to this length 
 
 until after the rest of the cutting 
 
 has been done (Fig. 28). If 
 
 you do separate it, there will 
 
 be no way of keeping the parts Fig. 28. — The Prism Puzzle 
 
22 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 together while cutting, and there will be nothing to hold the 
 
 block by. 
 
 Plane the sides of the stick square and smooth, and 
 
 square off one end. Mark off the distance of ^yi inches 
 
 from the squared end, upon each 
 side of the block. Then draw the 
 curves shown in Fig. 29 upon two 
 adjacent sides of the block, mak- 
 ing a tracing of the pattern and 
 transferring it to the block. 
 
 In cutting, it will be best to 
 support the block in a vertical po- 
 sition, and cut down as shown in 
 Fig. 30. There are two important 
 things to do. Hold the saw so that 
 the blade will cut horizontally and 
 always parallel to the sides of the 
 block, and cut exactly upon the 
 lines. 
 
 Figure 31 shows the nine blocks 
 into which the block is separated 
 in the process of cutting. The 
 center piece is the only piece that 
 is irregularly shaped on all four 
 sides; therefore, this is the piece to 
 begin with in assembling the block. 
 Find two pieces that will fit upon 
 opposite sides of it, and fit the three 
 
 Fig. 29.— Full- Size Pattern for rr ' 
 
 Cutting Prism Puzzle Blocks pieces together. Then find three 
 
SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 
 
 23 
 
 pieces that will fit together each side of the center three 
 pieces, slip them into position, and the block will be put 
 together. There is a trick to locking the pieces one inside 
 another, even when 
 the correct positions 
 have been discovered 
 You must get the 
 knack of putting 
 them together 
 through experiment- 
 ing. 
 
 A Seven-Piece Set 
 of Doll Furniture. 
 You would hardly 
 imagine that out of 
 the little block of 
 wood shown in Fig. 
 32, a seven-piece set 
 of doll-furniture can 
 be cut by making six 
 saw cuts, yet this is ' ' *--—■■' 
 
 the way the doll furniture shown in Figs. 37 to 43 was pre- 
 pared. Stand the pieces of furniture upon a table, and 
 ask a friend to fit them together so as to form a symmetrical 
 block, and the friend will think that you are joking. By 
 comparing the letters on the pieces of furniture, with the 
 letters on the block shown in Fig. 32, you will see how the 
 pieces fit within one another. 
 
 The block should be free from knots and cracks. White 
 
 Fig. 30. — Do not Cut the 
 Prism Block to the Right 
 Length until after the 
 Other Cutting has been 
 done. Additional Length 
 is Needed to Hold the 
 Separate Parts Together. 
 
24 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 pine is best, but other clear wood will do. Cut the block 
 to the dimensions shown in Fig. 33, planing its surfaces 
 
 Fig. 31. — The Nine Blocks into which the Prism is to be Cut 
 
 straight and smooth. Then upon the two faces and the 
 two sides mark off the lines on which to cut. Draw these 
 lines exactly as indicated. The corners of the cuts are 
 
SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 
 
 25 
 
 Saw the Block along the Heavy 
 Lines; and you will have the Seven-Piece Set 
 of Doll Furniture Shown in Figs. 37-43 
 
 shown rounded, because it is necessary to round them in 
 
 turning the corners with the saw blade. 
 The first piece to cut out is the table (Fig. 37). Figure 34 
 
 shows how this is re- 
 moved from the block. 
 
 The next step is to 
 
 separate the remainder 
 
 of the block into two 
 
 equal parts by sawing 
 
 along the heavy line 
 
 indicated in Fig. 34, 
 
 which will give you 
 
 the two blocks shown fig. 32 
 
 in Fig. 35. By now 
 
 cutting from each of 
 
 these blocks first the block C (Fig. 36), then the block D, 
 
 you will have produced the two chairs B (Figs. 38 and 41), 
 
 the two stools C 
 (Figs. 39 and 42), 
 and the two ta- 
 bourets D (Figs. 
 40 and 43). In 
 Figs. 34 and 35, 
 only one cut is 
 indicated on each, 
 the lines of the 
 other cuts being 
 omitted to save 
 confusion of lines. 
 
 Fig. 33. — Dimensions for Block 
 
26 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Unless you do the marking and sawing very accurately, 
 you will find it impossible to interlock the pieces except 
 when they are turned in the direction of the positions 
 
 Fig. 34. — The First Cut. 
 Block A is the Table 
 
 FlG. 35. — The Second Cut. 
 B are Chairs 
 
 Blocks 
 
 originally occupied. Although it is well to do the cutting 
 as accurately as possible, if the pieces will fit only one way 
 you will have a puzzle all the more difficult to assemble. 
 A fad for one's room is to have brightly colored 
 
SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 
 
 27 
 
 Bird and Animal Cut- Outs perched upon embroidery- 
 hoop swings. Figure 44 shows a monkey-in-swing cut-out 
 and Fig. 45 a parrot-in-swing cut-out, both of which are 
 easily prepared. 
 
 Fig. 36. — Each Chair Base has the Stool C 
 and Tabouret D Cut Out of it 
 
 To simplify the work of drawing the parrot and monkey, 
 patterns are shown in Figs. 46 and 47, that can be reproduced 
 easily to the size desired by the process of enlarging by 
 squares. Take a piece of wrapping-paper, and cut it 
 exactly 73^ inches wide by n inches long, being careful to 
 get the corners square. Then with a ruler mark off %-mch 
 divisions along each edge, and connect opposite division 
 points with straight lines. Your sheet of paper will now 
 be filled with squares similar to the diagram of Figs. 46 and 
 
28 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Figs. 37-43. — The Seven-Piece Set of Doll Furniture Completed 
 
SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 
 
 29 
 
 Fig. 44. — The Monkey-in-the- 
 Swing Cut-Out 
 
 Fig. 45. —The Parrot-in-the- 
 Swing Cut-Out 
 
3 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 A B C O E F G H I O K L M N O P. 
 
 Fig. 46. — One-Half-Size Pattern Fig. 47. — One-Half-Size Pattern 
 
 for Monkey Cut-Out for Parrot Cut-Out 
 
SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 
 
 3i 
 
 47. There will be exactly the same number of squares, 
 but they will be twice the size of those in the diagram. 
 Letter the vertical lines across the top edge, and number 
 the horizontal lines along one side, as shown. With the 
 sheet thus prepared, it will only be necessary to locate within 
 Fig. 48 Fig. 49 
 
 kAM 
 
 A-yA^co^ A 
 
 I* — I"— H 
 
 Fig. 52 
 
 Figs. 48 and 49. — How the Monkey's Feet and the Parrot's Claws are 
 
 Supported in the Swing 
 Fig. 50. — Pattern for Balancing Points 
 Figs. 51 and 52. — How the Tails are Weighted 
 
 the squares what is indicated within corresponding squares 
 on the diagram. 
 
 When the large patterns have been drawn, cut them out, 
 and trace them off upon the wood they are to be cut out of. 
 
32 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 In sawing out the pieces, care must be taken not to split 
 off small projections. After cutting, sandpaper the edges. 
 
 Buy 1 2-inch oval embroidery-hoops for swings, and use 
 ribbon to suspend them by. The monkey's feet do not 
 stand upon the hoop. The balancing block A (Figs. 48 and 
 50) is inserted in a notch cut in the feet, and the points of 
 this piece of wood rest upon the hoop. To make the monkey 
 balance upon the perch, the tail must be weighted, and the 
 best way of weighting it is by gluing a No. 3 skirt-weight to 
 each side (B, Fig. 51). The parrot's claws grasp a balancing 
 block (A, Fig. 49), which rests upon the hoop, and the tail 
 is weighted like the monkey's (Fig. 52). 
 
 Paint the monkey and parrot in bright colors, also the 
 hoops. Enamel paint in colors, prepared for this sort of 
 painting, can be purchased at paint stores, and this is pre- 
 ferable to flat paint. 
 
Every boy has right at hand the materials necessary 
 for making splendid Christmas gifts, in the empty 
 spools from mother's work-basket, boards from grocery 
 boxes, nails, and one or two other things that are to 
 be found in every household. 
 
 A handful of spools of assorted shapes and sizes will 
 suggest a hundred possibilities for suitable gifts for 
 each friend and relative whom you wish to remember. 
 The illustrations in this chapter show a variety of 
 useful articles, in the making of each of which one or 
 more spools were used, and, once you start work upon 
 duplicating these, you will discover quite as many more 
 ideas for simple gifts. 
 
 The Candle-stick in Fig. 53 is made by mounting a 
 small silk-thread spool upon the end of a large ribbon 
 spool, then mounting the ribbon spool upon a small 
 square block. The base block may be cut from a box 
 board. Make it about 1 inch wider each way than the 
 diameter of the spool end, and nail it to the end of the 
 spool as indicated in Fig. 59, with an equal projection 
 all around the spool. Fasten the small spool to the 
 end of the large spool with a short piece of pencil, or 
 
 33 
 
34 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 a round peg whittled to the same size. Coat this 
 piece of pencil or peg with glue, than push it through 
 the hole in the small spool and down into the hole in 
 the large spool, allowing about y 2 inch of its end to 
 
 project above the top of the 
 short spool. A hole just large 
 enough for this peg to fit 
 snugly in must be cut in the 
 end of the candle (Fig. 59). 
 Heat the top of the pencil be- 
 fore pressing the candle upon 
 it, to make the candle stick. 
 
 Finishing. A brown stain 
 produces a pretty finish for 
 articles made of spools. A 
 small quantity can be pur- 
 chased from a paint dealer for 
 ten or fifteen cents. Follow 
 the directions that accompany 
 it. An application of nothing 
 but boiled linseed oil also 
 makes a pretty finish. 
 
 After staining the candle- 
 stick, glue a piece of felt to 
 the under side of the base to 
 prevent its scratching surfaces 
 that it is placed upon. 
 The Desk Calendar shown in Fig. 54 requires a 
 small calendar-pad, a block upon which to mount the 
 
 c 
 
 TJ= 
 
 D 
 
 Fig. 59. — How the Candle- 
 Stick is Put Together 
 
Fig. 56.— A Pen-Rack 
 
 Fig. 57. — A Desk Blotter 
 
 Fig. 51. — A Desk Calendar 
 
 ,/ 
 
 Fig. 58. 
 A Paper-Knife 
 
 Fig. 53. — A Candle-Stick 
 
 Fig. 55. — A Stationery-Rack 
 
SPOOL GIFTS 
 
 35 
 
 pad, and two short silk-thread spools for feet. A 
 calendar-pad 2 inches wide and 3 inches long will cost 
 five cents. 
 
 Cut the back block out of a box-board, enough larger 
 than the pad to make a >^-inch margin all around it. 
 Nail spool feet to the 
 lower edge of the back 
 (Fig. 60), and fasten 
 the calendar in place 
 with small tacks. 
 
 The Stationery-rack 
 (Fig. 55) is built up 
 of four cotton-thread 
 spools of equal size, four 
 short silk-thread spools 
 of equal size, and a piece Fig. 60. — How the spool Feet are 
 of a box board 3 inches Attached to the Calendar Board 
 wide by 5 inches long. First, nail the piece of board 
 to the ends of the four long spools, then nail the four 
 short spools to the other side of the board, directly 
 under the long spools, for feet. Bits of felt may be 
 glued to the under side of the feet, to prevent them 
 from scratching. 
 
 The Pen-rack shown in Fig. 56 is made of a strip of 
 wood 6 inches long, $4 inch wide, and % inch thick 
 (Fig. 61), with a medium-sized spool mounted upon 
 each end. Cut the strip slanted on the ends, and nail 
 to the sides of the spools in the manner shown in 
 Fig. 61. 
 
36 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Only one spool is used for 
 
 The Desk Blotter (Fig. 57), that one forming the 
 handle (A, Fig. 62). The base block (B, Fig. 62) is a 
 piece of a box- 
 board 2y 2 inches 
 by 5 inches in- 
 size, and the 
 block C is 2]/ 2 in- 
 ches long and 1 
 inch wide. Get 
 a screw long 
 enough to ex- 
 tend through 
 
 Fig. 61. — Nail the Base of the Pen-Rack to the 
 Sides of the Spools, like this 
 
 handle A, through block C, 
 and part way into base 
 block B (a screw with a 
 round head will look neat- 
 est,) and screw the three 
 pieces together. If the 
 screw-head is smaller than 
 the hole in the spool handle, 
 support it by a small metal 
 washer slipped over the 
 screw. 
 
 Figure 62 shows how the 
 blotter is cut to fit the 
 bottom of the base block, 
 and folded up over the end 
 
 of the Blotter-Pad in Place to the Center of the top. 
 
 Fig. 62.— Block C holds the Blotter 
 
SPOOL GIFTS 
 
 37 
 
 The ends are held to the base by block C. To 
 release the ends for changing the blotter, it is only nec- 
 essary to give block C a half turn, so that it extends 
 lengthwise of the base block. Pad the blotter with an 
 extra piece of blotting-paper slipped between it and 
 base block B. 
 
 One end of the spool used for the handle of 
 
 The Paper-knife (Fig. 58) must be whittled down 
 until even with the 
 sides. Cut the 
 knife blade from 
 a stick, and make 
 it about 7 inches 
 long and y 2 inch 
 wide, with its edges 
 whittled thin and 
 sharp. Cut the 
 handle end to fit 
 the hole in the 
 spool handle, and 
 fasten it in this 
 hole with glue. 
 
 The Paper-spin- 
 dle (Fig. 63) is of a 
 
 convenient size for a desk. A 4-inch wire nail, a short 
 silk-thread spool, a base block 2 inches square, and a 
 piece of felt for the under side of the base, are the mate- 
 rials you need to make it. Enlarge the opening in one 
 end of the spool so the head of the nail will fit down 
 
 Fig. 63, — A Paper-Spindle 
 
38 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 into it. Then drop the nail through the hole, nail the 
 base to the under side of the spool, and glue the felt to 
 the base. 
 
 Fig. 66. — Glue the Pencil End 
 in the Spool Hole 
 
 Fig. 67. — Bind the Razor-Blade Between 
 the Pencil Halves 
 
 Fig. 65 — The Ripper 
 
 Fig. 64 — A Toothpick Holder 
 
 The Toothpick Holder (Fig. 64) is large enough for 
 eight or nine toothpicks. After staining the spool, 
 glue felt or cardboard to one end to form a bottom to 
 the holder. 
 
SPOOL GIFTS 
 
 39 
 
 Every woman needs 
 
 A Ripper for the sewing cabinet, and Fig. 65 shows 
 one that is easily made. One of father's safety-razor 
 blades, a short piece of pencil, and a spool (A, B, and C, 
 Fig. 66) are required to make it. 
 
 Split the pencil into 
 halves, remove the 
 lead, and notch the 
 edges in two places near 
 one end, spacing the 
 notches the same dis- 
 tance apart that the 
 holes in the razor blade 
 are spaced (Fig. 67). 
 Slip the blade between 
 the pencil halves, and 
 bind in place with 
 
 strong linen thread passed through the holes and around 
 the notches in the pencil. Then glue the free end of 
 
 the pencil into the 
 hole in the spool 
 handle, and the 
 little knife will be 
 ready for use. The 
 end hole in the 
 blade may be used 
 as a means of hang- 
 ing the knife on a nail in a sewing cabinet. 
 
 The Hatpin- Holder illustrated in Fig. 68 is made of 
 
 . — A Hatpin- 
 Holder 
 
 Fig. 69. — A Necktie- Rack 
 
40 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 three spools of equal size, fastened end to end with 
 brads. Tie a loop of narrow baby ribbon to the top 
 spool, in the manner shown, to provide for hanging 
 the holder upon the wall. 
 
 The Necktie-rack (Fig. 69) is made of a ribbon spool 
 slipped over a stick 16 inches long, with a piece of 
 ribbon tied to each end of the stick. The stick will be 
 held far enough away from the wall by the spool 
 flanges, so that neckties can be slipped over it easily. 
 
It is well to select small articles for Christmas gifts, if 
 you are going to make a lot of them. Make articles that 
 will require little time and material. Then the work will 
 not become tiresome nor be expensive. The articles illus- 
 trated in this chapter have been selected with these points 
 in view. 
 
 Much of the 
 
 Material to be found in a carpenter's waste pile is good 
 stuff, too small perhaps for him to bother with, but large 
 enough for your purpose. Go to the nearest carpenter shop 
 and see what you can get. A friendly sort of carpenter will 
 give you his wood scraps, and sell you such larger pieces as 
 you may need. White pine, whitewood, basswood, cypress 
 and oak are easy to work. Most of the articles illustrated 
 on the following pages were made of oak. 
 
 A Stain and Wax Finish is prettiest for small articles. 
 Stains in a variety of colors can be purchased in small 
 quantities at the paint store, and prepared wax can be 
 obtained there, also. Complete instructions for applying 
 wood stains accompany them. 
 
 Before finishing the wood, all surfaces must be free from 
 saw, chisel and other tool marks, and they must be carefully 
 
 41 
 
SMALL-GIFTS IN WOOD 
 
 43 
 
 2|lN. 
 A" 
 
 I IN 
 
 .5 In. — 
 
 — 1 
 
 Fig. 78. — Base of Post- Card Rack 
 
 4 IN- "H 
 
 of the upright piece of the calendar-board can either be cut 
 with a chisel or be filed round. The bevel on the top edge 
 of the base block can be made with a plane or chisel. Center 
 the upright piece on 
 the base block, and 
 fasten with brads 
 driven through the 
 base block. 
 
 The calendar-pad 
 should be 2 inches 
 wide and 3 % inches 
 long, a standard size 
 that can be pur- 
 chased at two for 
 five cents at sta- 
 tionery stores. The 
 brass screw-hooks 
 which screw into the 
 front edge of the 
 base block, to form 
 the pen-rack, should 
 be % inch long. 
 The wood should be 
 stained and waxed 
 before the pad and 
 the hooks are at- 
 tached. A strip of 
 fight- weight felt, 
 
 to & ' Fig. 79. — Parts of the Book-Ends Shown in 
 
 broadcloth, or other Fig. 72 
 
44 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 heavy cloth, glued to the bottom of the base, to prevent 
 the base from scratching surfaces it is stood upon, will 
 complete the gift. 
 
 The Post-Card Rack, shown in Fig. 71, has a pair of ends of 
 the same shape and size as the upright of the calendar-board 
 (Fig. 76), but its base is shorter and wider than the calendar- 
 board base. The base is shown in Fig. 78. It is fastened 
 between the end pieces. 
 
 The Book-Ends shown 
 in Fig. 72 make an excel- 
 lent rack for a few books 
 to stand on the library 
 table or the top of a desk. 
 There is not much cutting 
 
 J iN.HOLEr 
 
 
 to be done. Figure 79 
 
 shows dimensions for the 
 
 base, upright and bracket 
 
 pieces that make up an 
 
 end. The dotted lines 
 
 shown on the base and 
 
 upright pieces in the Fig. 80. 
 
 diagram, represent holes. 
 
 These should be bored as indicated, and rilled with melted lead, 
 
 before the pieces are assembled. The purpose of the lead is to 
 
 make the book-ends heavy enough so the pressure of the books 
 
 between them will not upset them. Nail the upright piece 
 
 to the edge of the base piece, and the triangular bracket pieces 
 
 to both the base and the upright. Use 1 -inch nails for nailing. 
 
 Before nailing, coat the edges of the pieces with glue. 
 
 — Parts of the Candle-Stick 
 Shown in Fig. 73 
 
SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 45 
 
 The Candle -Stick shown in Fig. 73 is made up of six 
 blocks of wood of the shapes and sizes shown in Fig. 80. 
 The hole for the candle should be bored through the cap 
 block and part way in the top of the upright block, before 
 the pieces are cut down to the finished- dimensions, so there 
 will be little danger of splitting the wood. 
 
 Use glue and %-inch and i-inch brads for assembling 
 the pieces. Nail the base block to the under side of the 
 upright block, and the cap block to the top; then nail the 
 three handle pieces together and fasten them to the base 
 block. 
 
 The tray of 
 
 The Match-Holder and Tray shown in Fig. 74 is a tin 
 can cover 4 inches in diameter. The author is wandering 
 from his chapter subject "Small Gifts in Wood," in present- 
 ing this here, because it is made of tin, but he believes that 
 the nature of the article warrants his including it among 
 the small gifts. A coffee-can cover is of about the right 
 size for the tray (A, Fig. 81). The match-holder consists 
 of a U-shaped piece of tin (B, Fig. 82), a wooden block (C), 
 and the sleeve cover of a safety-match box (D). The 
 sleeve cover of the match-box slips between the uprights 
 of tin strip B, fitting down over block C. Then the safety- 
 matches removed from the box are dropped into the open 
 top of the sleeve, as shown in Fig. 74. 
 
 Figure 82 shows the pattern for tin strip B. With an 
 old pair of scissors, or tin-snips, cut off the ends of a tin 
 can, then cut through the can sides, cutting parallel with 
 the side seam, and bend out the tin into a flat strip. Upon 
 
46 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the strip mark out a piece of the dimensions given in Fig. 82. 
 The dotted lines of the diagram indicate where the tin is 
 to be folded. The 
 ends are to be turned 
 over upon themselves 
 and hammered down 
 to make stiff upper 
 edges, the folds at the 
 center are to be right- 
 angle folds. In 
 making the center 
 folds, bend the tin 
 over a box edge or 
 other sharp edge. Be 
 careful to make the 
 distance between the 
 center folds exactly 
 Vz inch, as shown. 
 
 Figure 83 shows 
 the dimensions of 
 block C. This block 
 is of just the right 
 size for the match- 
 box sleeve-cover to 
 slip over. Fasten it 
 
 * — a| — **-$ 
 
 Fig. 81. — Parts of the Match-Holder and Tray 
 
 Shown in Fig. 74 
 Fig. 82. — Pattern for U-Shaped Support 
 Fie. 83. — Pattern for Base Block 
 
 to tin strip B with tacks, placing it halfway between the 
 tin uprights. After fastening strip B to block C, place the 
 holder on the center of the tray A and fasten with two 
 short nails, as shown. 
 
SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 
 
 47 
 
 r 
 
 ~ 
 
 A- 
 
 L 
 
 To complete the match-holder and tray, give it a coat 
 of radiator bronze or aluminum paint. 
 
 The Egg-Rack shown in Fig. 75 will go in mother's refrig- 
 erator, or will stand upon her pantry shelf. Figure 84 
 shows a side view of 
 the rack, Fig. 85 
 shows a plan of the 
 shelf B which sup- 
 ports the eggs, and 
 Fig. 86 shows one of 
 the end pieces A. 
 
 Prepare end A 
 first. To save you 
 trouble in marking 
 out the ends, a 
 pattern of the hen 
 is shown in Fig. 86, 
 one-half full-size. 
 It will only be nec- 
 essary to reproduce 
 this twice the size 
 shown. The squares 
 drawn checker- 
 board fashion upon 
 the pattern will 
 make enlarging easy. 
 Rule of! upon your 
 working material a 
 similar series of squares, but make them y 2 inch square 
 
 t^Tj- 
 
 Fig. 84. — Side View of Egg- Rack 
 Shown in Fig. 75 
 
 Fig: 85. — Diagram of Shelf 
 
4 8 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 instead of \i inch. Letter the top ends of the vertical lines, 
 
 and number one end of each horizontal line, as shown. 
 
 Then, upon the enlarged squares reproduce the lines exactly 
 
 as they are shown upon the small squares. The letters and 
 
 numbers will help 
 
 you locate quickly 
 
 the large squares 
 
 that correspond 
 
 to the small 
 
 squares. Cutting 
 
 out these pieces 
 
 makes a good 
 
 scroll-saw exercise. 
 
 If you haven't a 
 
 scroll-saw, a hand 
 
 bracket-saw (Fig. 
 
 1 8) or coping-saw 
 
 (Fig. 19) will do 
 
 the work nicely. 
 
 Basswood is good \% 
 
 material to use for |g 
 
 these pieces, but 
 
 you can use any 
 
 other firm piece 
 
 Fig. 
 
 , — Pattern of End-Pieces of Egg- Rack 
 Shown in Fig. 75 
 
 of wood that will hold together without splitting or chipping. 
 Figure 85 shows a diagram of the upper shelf of the rack. 
 If you haven't a bit large enough for boring holes of the 
 required size, bore a ring of holes with a small bit, split out 
 the wood between the holes with a chisel, and trim up to 
 
Fig. 90. — Electric-Lighted Watch Bask. 
 
 Fig 89.— Necktie- or Towel-Rack. 
 

 
 T 
 
 IOC 
 
SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 
 
 49 
 
 siN~*-y^£ 
 
 in... Am. . 
 vV^ 8 Am 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 00 
 
 the circumference of the large hole with a chisel or jack-knife; 
 then smooth up the hole with a rat-tail file and sandpaper. 
 The lower shelf or brace (C, Fig. 84) need not be more than 
 2 yi inches wide. 
 Fasten together the pieces with glue and finishing-nails, 
 en sandpaper all surfaces carefully, and give the rack a 
 uple of coats of shellac. 
 Figure 87 shows 
 A Desk Tele- 
 one Directory 
 at is handy for 
 v Ding in readi- 
 for instant 
 ence, in al- 
 betical order, 
 names and tel- 
 lone numbers 
 persons called 
 e or less fre- 
 ently, and num- 
 s subject to call 
 imergencies. 
 figure 91 shows 
 ase A of the card- 
 ack, upright B, 
 
 ,nd the groove strips C which form the card pocket. Pieces 
 A and B can be cut out of material 34 _mcn thick. Cut the 
 rabbets in the edges of strips C with a chisel. Fasten 
 upright B to the center of base A with glue and brads, and 
 
 *- 
 
 Fig. 91. — Parts of 
 
 -|,N. 
 
 A 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 Telephone Direct- 
 ory Shown in Fig. 
 87 
 
 k- 
 
 JA 
 
 •3i 
 
 IN. 
 
5° 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 fasten strips C to upright B so the lower ends rest on base A, 
 and so the groove rabbets are 2^5 inches apart, which will 
 allow plenty of clearance space for the directory cards. 
 
 Figure 92 is a diagram of the twenty-four directory cards. 
 It shows the size of each card, and how to cut the index tabs. 
 If you cannot get 
 light-weight cards 
 for the directory, 
 cut up stiff writing- 
 paper as a substi- 
 tute. The twenty- 
 four cards must be 
 enough less than y% 
 inch thick so they 
 will slip in and out 
 of the rack easily. 
 
 This same form 
 of rack can be used 
 for 
 
 A Time -Card 
 Rack, to hold sub- 
 urban time-cards 
 for handy reference. 
 
 r 
 1 
 
 Hcnj 
 
 r 
 t 
 
 b 2 >-^ 
 
 "^1— am™. 
 
 B 
 
 T 
 
 z 
 -loo 
 
 I 
 
 no_ 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 HI 
 
 r_i_ 
 
 1. 
 1 
 
 SI 
 
 
 T 
 
 z 
 
 colco 
 
 •? 
 
 i 
 
 r_i_ 
 
 
 
 TL, 
 
 VI 
 
 
 1 WL I 
 
 Fig. 92. 
 
 Cards for Telephone Directory 
 Shown in Fig. 87 
 
 Instead of preparing strips for the 
 card pocket, you can screw four brass screw-hooks into 
 upright B at the points indicated in Fig. 91. The hooks 
 will hold the edges of one or two time-cards as satisfactorily 
 as the strips would. 
 
 A Wall Telephone Directory, or a wall time-card rack, 
 can be made by reducing base A to a width of 1 inch, and 
 
SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 
 
 Si 
 
 fastening a hanger at the top of upright B and another at 
 the bottom, for fastening to the wall. 
 
 The Necktie-Rack shown in Fig. 88 is an improvement 
 upon the usual form of rack, because there is only one center 
 support for the tie-rod, which leaves the ends open, and 
 makes it easy to slip ties on and off the rack. 
 
 iflNr- 
 
 Fig. 93. — Parts of Necktie-Rack Shown in Fig. 88 
 
 Figure 93 shows diagrams of back block A, bracket 
 block B, and tie-rod C. A carpenter's dowel-stick is 
 required for rod C. The bevelled edge of back block A 
 can be cut either with a plane or a chisel. Fasten the rod 
 in the bracket hole with glue, being careful to center it 
 exactly, and fasten a hanger to the top of back block A 
 and another to the bottom. Small screw-eyes will do for 
 hangers. Regular picture-frame hangers can be bought at 
 the hardware store. 
 
52 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 The Necktie- or Towel-Rack shown in Fig. 89 has a 
 16-inch tie-rod, and this is supported by a pair of brackets, 
 each made like bracket B (Fig. 93). The back board is 
 shown in Fig. 94, and the centers for the bracket blocks 
 indicated on it. 
 
 An Electric -Lighted Watch Base like the one shown in 
 Fig. 90 makes an attractive little clock for chiffonier or 
 dresser. It was designed to hold a watch from bed-time 
 till get-up-time. A small electric-lamp, operated by a dry- 
 battery, and controlled from the bed by a push-botton 
 
 7 ^ W. ^|,«(c 
 
 fe- lflN-f- if IN.T>] *l 
 
 1 I fi 
 
 
 Fig. 94. — Back for Necktie or Towel-Rack Shown in Fig. 89 
 
 illuminates the watch-face. With the addition of a calendar 
 mounted beneath the electric-lamp socket, this little sentinel 
 stands in constant readiness to give information as to the 
 time of the day, and the day of the week and the month. 
 
 Working-drawings of the parts of the battery-case are 
 shown in Figs. 95 and 96, and Fig. 97 shows how the parts 
 are assembled. Front piece A (Fig. 95) is grooved near the 
 
SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 
 
 53 
 
 side edges to receive the edges of side pieces B. If you 
 haven't an expansive-bit with which to cut the watch-face 
 opening, bore several small holes, split out the wood between 
 
 h — 
 
 4 IN.- 
 
 TzzzzlMk 
 
 — 3 t ,N ^dfz±r!y 
 
 ^mzzzzzzzzzzzzm •*&. 
 
 $Sjb 
 
 Fig. 95. — Front A, Sides B, and Back C, D of Electric-Lighted Watch 
 Base Shown in Fig. 90 
 
 the holes, and trim up to the circumference of the i^-inch 
 opening with a chisel. Side pieces B are grooved near the 
 rear edge to receive the sliding-back C. The edges of 
 sliding-back C are rabbeted as shown in the cross-section of 
 
54 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 95, to slide in the grooves in sides B. Strip B, nailed 
 to the top of sliding-back C (Fig. 97), forms a lift for raising 
 the sliding-back. Strip D and piece E form the top to the 
 case. Dimensions for top piece E are given in Fig. 96, as 
 are also dimensions for base block F. Base F is grooved 
 to receive the lower ends of front A and sides B. The 
 
 1 1 ■ (■ 
 
 Fig. 96. — Top E, Base F, Watch Support G, and Spring Attachment 
 H, I, U, of Electric-Lighted Watch Base Shown in Fig. 90 
 
 cross-section drawing in Fig. 96 shows the size of the grooves. 
 Cut all grooves with a small chisel. 
 
 Block G (Figs. 96 and 97) forms the bottom of the watch 
 pocket. Fasten it below the opening in the watch front, 
 as shown in Fig. 97. The back of the watch-pocket is a 
 circular piece of wood (H, Fig. 96). In order to keep the 
 
SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 
 
 55 
 
 Fig. 97. — Detail Showing How Watch Base is Assembled; also Battery, 
 Lamp, Push-Button, Cord, and Connections of Same 
 
 watch close to the front of the case, there must be a spring 
 back of it. Use a piece of the main-spring of an old alarm- 
 clock ( U, Figs. 96 and 97). Fasten one end of the spring 
 to the back of block H, the other end to a strip /. Fasten 
 
56 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 strip / to the inside of front piece A (Fig. 97), at the right 
 height to bring disk H directly back of the watch opening. 
 
 Having grooved and rabbeted the parts as shown, it is 
 not much of a trick to assemble the battery-case. Glue 
 alone will suffice to hold grooved joints, but a brad or two 
 in addition will not go amiss. Drive in the brads carefully, 
 and drive their heads slightly beneath the surface of the 
 wood so they can be concealed later with putty. 
 
 After you have completed the case, it is well to put the 
 finish on the wood before installing the lamp, battery, etc. 
 When the finish has been applied, glue a piece of light- 
 weight felt, or heavy cloth, to the under side of the base, 
 as a protection to surfaces on which the watch-base will 
 stand. 
 
 The Electric -Light Attachment requires a miniature brass 
 wall-plate {J, Fig. 97), a brass right-angle nipple (K), a 
 miniature lamp-socket (L, M, N) , a 1 %-volt mazda lamp (0), 
 a dry-battery cell (P), 3 yards of flexible silk-covered double- 
 conductor lamp-cord (Q and R), and a pear-shaped push- 
 button (S, T). The manner in which the connections are 
 made is shown in Fig. 97. Two small holes must be bored 
 through the front of the battery- case, as shown, the upper 
 hole for the wires connected with the lamp to run through, 
 the lower hole for the wires leading from lamp and battery 
 to push-button, to run through. 
 
 If your battery dry-cell fits too snugly in its case, hollow 
 out the inside face of the sliding-back C a trifle, as indicated 
 by dotted lines in Fig. 95. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 A PAPER-BALER 
 
 The ease with which waste-paper can be baled with a 
 home-made paper-baler like that described in this chapter, 
 recommends its use in every home. The baler compresses 
 paper into compact bales that require little storage space; 
 therefore, a large enough number of bales can be accumu- 
 lated, before calling in the junk-dealer, to make a sale that 
 
 Fig. 98.— The Paper-Baler after Binding-Cords Fig. 99.— The Paper-Baler 
 
 have been Adjusted, Waste Paper Thrown in, with Front Removed. The 
 
 the Compressor Board Put in Place, and the Bale is now Ready for 
 
 Compressor- Lever Thrown over, Pushed Down Tying 
 and Locked 
 
 will be worth while. The possession of a baler will encourage 
 the conservation of waste-paper, will lessen the temptation 
 to destroy it. 
 
 After you have built a paper-baler for home use, see if 
 your neighbors would not like to have you make one for them. 
 
 57 
 
58 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 100. —The Paper-Baler with Lever Raised and the Bound Bale 
 
 Removed 
 
 Figure 98 shows the baler after the binding cords have 
 been adjusted, waste-paper has been thrown into the recep- 
 table, the compressor board placed on top, and the com- 
 pressor lever thrown over, pushed down and fastened. 
 Figure 99 shows the baler with its front removed. The 
 binding-cord should now be tied. Figure 100 shows the 
 
 lever raised and the 
 bound bale removed. 
 Figure 101 is a 
 longitudinal section 
 through the baler, 
 and Fig. 102 is a 
 cross-section. Figure 
 103 shows the parts 
 unassembled, with 
 their relative posi- 
 tions indicated. You 
 will find the dimen- 
 sions upon Figs. 101 
 and 102. 
 
 Fig. 101. — Longitudinal Section of Baler 
 
A PAPER-BALER 
 
 59 
 
 Perhaps you can get a box of the 
 The Base of the Baler, the parts 
 B, and C in Fig. 103. This 
 must be of the right size to 
 hold newspapers folded in half. 
 The bottom must project 1 inch 
 beyond end pieces A, as shown. 
 When these parts have been 
 assembled, cut the four end 
 strips D, and nail two to each 
 of the end pieces A, placing 
 the rear strips even with the 
 back edge of board B, and the 
 front strips with their front 
 
 right size for 
 
 of which are lettered A, 
 
 Fig. 
 
 Fig. 103. — How the Parts are Assembled 
 
 15'^ A 
 
 102. — Cross-Section of Baler 
 
 edge projecting 1 
 inch beyond end 
 pieces A . Cut 
 board E (Fig. 103) 
 to fit between the 
 rear pair of strips 
 D. Cut the four 
 strips F, 1 inch 
 square, by a length 
 equal to the width 
 of board E, and 
 fasten one in each 
 of the corners 
 formed by board 
 E and strips D, 
 
6o 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 and one to each of the front pair of strips D flush with the 
 front edge of end pieces A. The latter pair of strips com- 
 plete the inner face of the slide for sliding-front H; the 
 slide is completed by strips G, nailed to the front edge of 
 strips D. Make sliding-front H to fit loosely in the slides. 
 The Compressor Top (/, Fig. 103) is made of the right 
 size to fit loosely between strips F. Fasten the boards 
 together with a pair of battens (K). 
 
 Fig. 
 106 
 
 Fig. 104 
 
 Fig. 104. — The Compressor Lever 
 
 Fig. 105. — How the Compressor Lever is Pivoted 
 
 Fig. 106. — How the Compressor Lever is Held Down 
 
 The Compressor Lever (L, Fig. 104) is a wooden bar 1^ 
 inches square and 3 feet long. Bore a 3^-inch hole 2 inches 
 from one end, and pivot the bar with a 3^-inch carriage-bolt 
 6 inches long (M, Fig. 105), supported by a pair of screw- 
 eyes ( N) screwed into strips D 3 inches above the top edge 
 
A PAPER-BALER 61 
 
 of end pieces A. Round off the free end of the lever for a 
 handle (Fig. 106), attach a short piece of chain to a screw- 
 eye screwed into it, and drive several nails into the end of 
 the baler box opposite to that on which the lever is pivoted, 
 to hook the chain on to (Fig. 106). This holds the lever 
 down when the paper has been compressed. 
 
 How the Paper-Baler is Operated. Cords for tying the 
 bale of paper must be arranged inside of the baler before the 
 paper is thrown in. These cords must be very strong so 
 there will be no danger of their breaking. Pass the cords 
 around rods Q in the bottom of the baler, and around rods 
 5 on the under side of the compressor top (Figs. 101 and 
 102). Rods Q slip through holes bored through the ends 
 of the baler (Fig. 100), and the inner ends slip through 
 screw-eyes P (Figs. 101 and 102) ; rods 6* are of the length 
 of top 7, and they slip through screw-eyes R. 
 
 After enough paper to make a bale has been compressed, 
 and the compressor-lever has been fastened down, remove 
 the sliding-front of the baler, and tie the binding cords, then 
 withdraw rods Q (Fig. 101), remove the bale from the box, 
 and withdraw rods S. The compressor top must be lifted 
 out with the bale, because the rods S cannot be withdrawn 
 until after the bale and top have been taken out. 
 
 Crushed paper, and torn bits of paper compress into a 
 surprisingly small bulk. A dozen times, probably, you will 
 put into the baler what you think is enough paper to make 
 a bale, and even after the twelfth time find room for more. 
 When small pieces of paper are being baled, a newspaper or 
 other large piece of paper must be placed in the bottom of 
 
62 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the baler, for the start of the bale, and another large piece 
 must be placed on top, to hold in the small pieces. After a 
 bale has been removed from the baler, tie a heavy cord 
 around it endwise, to reinforce the other two bindings. 
 
The kitchen contrivances described upon following pages 
 will be helpful to mother, and if they please her you will 
 probably find that they will also please neighbors, and 
 
 Fig. 107. — 
 Kitchen Clock- 
 Shelf 
 
 Fig. 108. — Diagram 
 of Shelf and Bracket 
 
 right here open up possibilities for a profitable home manu- 
 facturing business. What you can make out of the work 
 will depend largely upon how much ability you have as a 
 salesman, but your craftsmanship will count for a great 
 deal, because attractiveness in the appearance of articles 
 goes a long ways towaids helping sell them. 
 
 63 
 
64 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 A Kitchen Clock-Shelf like that in Fig. 107 takes little 
 time to make, and little material. It requires two pieces 
 of wood (A and B, Fig. 108) y% inch thick, by the other 
 dimensions shown. Fasten bracket B to top A at the exact 
 center of the length, with glue and finishing-nails. 
 
 Fig. 109. — A Kitchen Tool- Rack 
 
 The Finish of the clock-shelf, and the following kitchen 
 articles, is a matter to be decided by the person for whom 
 they are made. The usual way is to shellac the surfaces, 
 first, then apply one or two coats of varnish. But the wood 
 can be painted with flat or enamel paint, or stained, or oiled. 
 A stained surface should be protected with shellac and 
 varnish, for kitchen wear. 
 
FOR MOTHER'S KITCHEN 
 
 65 
 
 The Tool-Rack in Fig. 109 is most convenient when hung 
 directly over the kitchen work-table. The length of the 
 hook-strip will be determined by the space in which the 
 rack is to hang, and by the number of tools it is to accom- 
 modate. The rack's appearance will be improved by 
 
 fRY (oi 
 
 _____=-_ ^1 
 
 III 
 
 CITOfllKCO. || 
 
 (v n ° s, jjti 
 
 
 
 1 ___ V 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ill • " 1 
 
 Fig. 110 
 
 _A Fig. 
 ^ 111 
 
 Fig. 110. —A Milk-Card Rack 
 Fig. 111. — Detail of Rack 
 
 planing a bevel on the face edges of the hook-strip, also on the 
 edges of the end blocks, as in the illustration. 
 
 Use round-head brass screws, screw-hooks, or nails for 
 hooks, and screw a screw-eye into the top edge of each end 
 block to hang the rack by. 
 
66 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 The Milk-Card Rack shown in Fig. no is provided with 
 screw-eyes to hang upon hooks outside of the kitchen door. 
 
 Figure in is a 
 pattern for the 
 board, but because 
 milk-cards vary in 
 size, you had better 
 measure the card 
 for which the board 
 is to be used, before 
 you begin work. 
 The margin around 
 the card should be 
 
 Fig. 112. -Recipe Cabinet about ag ghown jrf 
 
 Fig. no, which allows for beveling the edge all around. 
 Prepare strip A (Fig. in), and fasten it with brads across 
 the lower edge of board B for the milk-card to rest upon. 
 
 Screw four screw-hooks into the board at the points 
 indicated in Fig. in, just far enough apart for the milk-card 
 to slip between, and screw a pair of screw-eyes into the 
 top edge of the board for hangers. 
 
 There is no question but that 
 
 A Recipe Filing-Cabinet provides a handier method of 
 keeping together recipe clippings taken from magazines 
 and newspapers, than a scrapbook, and the envelope system 
 used in the cabinet illustrated in Figs. 112 and 113 comes 
 pretty close to being a perfect scheme. With an envelope 
 provided for ea,ch group of recipes, there is no possibility 
 of small clippings becoming lost, and when a recipe in one 
 
FOR MOTHER'S KITCHEN 
 
 67 
 
 group is wanted, it is a simple matter to lift out the envelope 
 bearing that classification. 
 
 The Cabinet can 
 be made of cigar- 
 box wood, the larger 
 pieces, such as the 
 top and bottom, of 
 two strips glued 
 together. As you 
 can get cigar-boxes 
 at any drug-store, 
 for the asking, this 
 material can be 
 
 Fig. 113. — Drawer of Recipe Cabinet 
 
 obtained easily. If you prefer to use oak, or a soft wood, 
 and can procure thin stuff, %-inch or X-inch thick, well 
 and good. 
 
 Figure 114 shows a cross-section through the cabinet and 
 drawer, and Figure 115 shows a longitudinal section through 
 them. Upon these two drawings you will find every 
 measurement necessary for marking out the pieces required. 
 
 The back (A, Fig. 115) is shown 3^-inch thick. This will 
 make a stronger cabinet than if cigar-box wood were used, 
 and will provide a solid piece to screw the screw-eye hangers 
 / into. Prepare back piece A, then sides B. Nail sides 
 B to the ends of back A. Cut bottom C and fasten it 
 between sides B, then cut top D and nail it' to the tops of 
 back A and sides B. To make a neat piece of cabinet work, 
 it is necessary to cut the pieces with square corners and 
 square edges; and to make them of the exact measurements 
 
68 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 H- 
 
 y. - • : ' ■'. ■■ -^ir~z~^: :-T_: :^t ^^i^l^~z i3 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 r? 
 
 T 
 
 5 
 
 s 
 
 6^ 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 B 
 
 
 x 
 
 -h 
 
 given. It is also important to obtain square corners in 
 
 assembling the pieces. 
 
 The Drawer front (E, Fig. 115) is the first part of the 
 
 drawer to prepare, then the sides F, the bottom G, and the 
 
 back H. Fasten 
 the pieces together 
 with glue and brads, 
 but not until you 
 know that the 
 drawer is going to 
 fit. You can tack 
 the pieces together 
 with a few brads, 
 temporarily, until 
 you are through 
 fitting and trim- 
 ming. 
 
 The drawer-knob 
 (/, Fig. 115) is a 
 spool-end, fastened 
 with glue and brads. 
 Hangers J are 
 screw-eyes. 
 
 For the Finish of 
 the cigar-box wood 
 cabinet, the author 
 
 Fig. 114. 
 
 c 2 
 
 Cross-Section of Recipe Cabinet 
 
 T 
 
 Fig. 115. — Longitudinal Section of 
 Recipe Cabinet 
 
 suggests several coats of boiled linseed-oil. 
 Figure 116 shows 
 The Envelope Containers for recipe clippings, and Fig. 
 
FOR MOTHER'S KITCHEN 
 
 69 
 
 117 shows how the tabs for classification are pasted to the 
 face of the envelopes, in three positions. This cabinet was 
 designed for business-size envelopes, which measure 3^ 
 inches wide and 6 3^ inches long. 
 
 A Step-Ladder Stool (Fig. 118). The ladder is of just 
 the right height for general household use, for washing wood- 
 work, or for reach- 
 ing upper shelves in 
 the pantry. It also 
 makes an excellent 
 kitchen stool, the 
 lower step serving 
 the purpose of a 
 foot-rest. When 
 the ladder-stool is 
 not in use, it may 
 be folded into the 
 compact form shown 
 in Fig. 119, and 
 stood behind a door 
 or in some other 
 out - o - he - way 
 place. 
 
 - The Ladder con- 
 sists of three portions, the steps (Fig. 120), the rear 
 legs (Fig. 125), and the seat or top step (Fig. 128). 
 
 The Side Rails of the steps (A, Fig. 120) should be cut 
 of the dimensions shown in Fig. 121. Mark the ends to be 
 cut to the angle shown, the top to be notched to receive an 
 
 Fig. 116 — Indexed Envelope Con- 
 tainer for Recipes 
 
 Fig. 117 
 
 How the Envelope Index Tabs 
 are put on 
 
70 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 end of the crosspiece D (Fig. 120). The diagram shows 
 the positions for steps B and C. The steps must pitch at 
 the same angle as the rail ends. Groove the side pieces to 
 a depth of H inch, to receive the ends of the steps (Fig. 123). 
 You will see by Fig. 120 that the sides of the grooves must 
 not be cut down at right angles, but at a pitch corresponding 
 to that of the side rails, to accommodate steps B and C. 
 
 Figure 122 shows 
 dimensions for cut- 
 ting 
 
 The Steps B and 
 C. The ends of 
 these pieces must 
 be beveled slightly 
 to make them cor- 
 respond to the angle 
 formed by side rails 
 A. 
 
 In assembling the 
 rails and steps, first 
 set the ends of the 
 steps in the grooves 
 in the side rails, and 
 drive screws through 
 the projections on 
 the ends of the steps 
 into the front edges of the side rails, also drive screws through 
 the side rails into the step ends. Cut crosspiece D of the 
 width and thickness of the notch in the upper end of side 
 
 MJ 
 
 Fig. 118. — Step-Ladder Stool 
 
FOR MOTHER'S KITCHEN 71 
 
 rails A, and of about the length of step B; slip it into the 
 notches, nail it to the edges of side rails A, and saw off the 
 ends flush with the outside face of the rails. 
 
 The Rear Legs (E, Fig. 125) must be spaced the same 
 distance apart, and placed at the same angle, as the side 
 rails A of the ladder. Cut the legs of the dimen- 
 sions shown in Fig. 126, and the pair of cross- 
 pieces F and G of the dimensions shown in Fig. 
 127. Use the steps as a guide for fastening 
 together legs E and crosspieces F and G, so as 
 to get them of equal width. 
 
 With the steps and rear legs assembled, 
 prepare 
 
 The Top Step or seat (H) by the pattern 
 shown in Fig. 128. Then screw one flap of a 
 pair of hinges (/) to the inner face of crosspiece 
 D of the steps, the flap of another pair of hinges 
 (/) to the outer face of rear legs E, and screw 
 the other flaps to the under side of seat H in 
 the positions shown in Fig. 124. 
 
 The Struts K prevent the legs from sliding 
 farther apart when the ladder is opened to the 
 position shown in Fig. 124. Cut this pair of 
 strips of the size shown in Fig. 129, bore a screw- 
 hole near each end, and screw the ends both to FlG - 119 * 
 rails A and rear legs E, as shown in Fig. 118. stoo^Folded 
 If the struts have been adjusted carefully, the 
 step-ladder will fold into the form shown in Fig. 119, but 
 not while a weight is upon the steps. That is to say, the 
 
CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 ladder will not fold up while you are standing or sitting 
 upon it. 
 
 3i 
 
 -jc 
 
 2" 
 
 . -H. 
 
 CJ 
 
 Fig. 122 ± 
 
 Fig. 120. — Detail of Ladder Steps Fig. 121. --Dimensions of Side Rails 
 
 Fig. 122. — Dimensions of Steps 
 
 Fig. 123. — How Steps and Parts are Joined 
 
Fig. 124. — Cross-Section of Step-Ladder Stool Fig. 125. — Rear Legs 
 
 Fig. 126. — Dimensions of Rear Legs Fig. 127. — The Braces 
 
 Fig. 128. — Top Step or Stool Seat Fig. 129. — Strut 
 
 73 
 
74 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 The Clothes- 
 Line Reel in Fig. 
 130 is intended for 
 use upon the 
 kitchen porch 
 (Fig. 131), in the 
 kitchen, bath- 
 room, or laundry. 
 The reel screws to 
 the wall, where it 
 is always ready 
 for instant use ; 
 
 and, because the clothes-line can be wound up out of the 
 way after the dried clothes have been removed, the reel is 
 very convenient for crowded quarters. 
 
 Fig. 130. — Clothes-Line Reel 
 
 Fig. 131. — The Reel in Use 
 
FOR MOTHER'S KITCHEN 
 
 75 
 
 The Case of the Reel is a tomato can with both ends 
 removed (Fig. 132). If the ends are clinched over the can 
 sides, cut them away with a can opener. Start holes B 
 with a nail, and 
 enlarge with a rat- 
 tail file until ]/ 2 inch 
 in diameter. File 
 the edges of the 
 holes smooth, so 
 they will not cut 
 the clothes line 
 which is to run 
 through them. 
 
 Cut blocks C 
 (Figs. 132 and 133) 
 to fit snugly in the 
 can ends. Use a 
 scroll-saw or brack- 
 et-saw (Fig. 18, 
 Chap. 2) if you own 
 one; otherwise, cut 
 the blocks roughly 
 with a large saw, 
 and finish up to the 
 circumference with 
 a chisel and sand- 
 
 Fig. 132. — Case of Clothes-Line Reel 
 Fig. 133. — Detail of Winding-Stick 
 Figs. 134 and 135. — Details of Crank 
 
 paper. 
 
 The Reel, 
 dowel-stick J^-inch or -Ms-inch in diameter. Its length 
 
 Winding-stick D of the reel (Fig. 133) is a 
 
76 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 should be i inch longer than the can. Bore a hole through 
 the center of each end block C, for the stick to turn in. 
 A brad driven through one end, and the crank-shaft tacked 
 to the other end, will prevent the stick from pulling out of 
 the holes (Figs. 133 and 134). 
 
 The Crank Shaft (E, Figs. 134 and 135) should be 2]/ 2 
 inches long, % inch wide, and y% i ncn thick. To prevent its 
 splitting, it is best to bore the hole for winding-stick D, and 
 also to screw spool knob F in position, before shaping the 
 block to its finished width and thickness. 
 
 The Clothesline should be of cotton, and should be 50 
 feet long. Slip the rope ends through holes B in the front 
 of the tin can case, pass them around the winding stick D, 
 as shown in Fig. 133, and fasten with tacks. 
 
 Fasten end blocks C of the reel case with screws driven 
 through the can sides into their edges. 
 
 For Hangers screw the pair of screw-eyes G (Fig. 132) 
 into end blocks C, as shown. Fasten the reel to a wall by 
 driving screws through the eyes of the hangers into the 
 wall (Fig. 130). 
 
 There must be a means for 
 
 Locking the Reel when as much line as is wanted has been 
 unwound. Bore several holes through end C of the reel 
 case (the end at which the crank is mounted), and provide 
 a nail to stick into the holes for a locking-pin, to prevent 
 the crank from turning. Hang the locking-pin from one 
 of the hangers by means of a piece of string (Fig. 130). 
 
 It is best to give the case of the reel two coats of paint, 
 to keep the tin from rusting. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 FOR MOTHER'S SEWING ROOM 
 
 Mother will not want all of the sewing-room conven- 
 iences shown in this chapter; in fact, she could not very- 
 well use all of them because several are designed for a 
 similar purpose. But let her choose from among the articles 
 those that she likes best, and make them for her as your 
 time permits. Some of the articles can be made up for 
 Christmas gifts, some you may find an opportunity to sell. 
 For the most part, the articles are inexpensively made; 
 several require nothing but materials that can be picked 
 up at home. 
 
 The Fancy-Work Frame shown in Fig. 136 hangs upon 
 the wall. A couple 
 of nails or hooks 
 can be fastened 
 securely in the wall 
 to support it. 
 When not in use, 
 the drop-front is 
 hooked up out of 
 the way, and the 
 contents thus made 
 
 proof against dust. FlG - 136 - ~~ A Fanc y- Work Frame 
 
 77 
 
78 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 ^ 
 
 ~7 
 
 4L 
 
 
 With the frame hooked together in this way, it can be 
 carried conveniently, if it is desired to use it in another room 
 
 or on the porch. 
 
 Fig. 137 shows 
 the construction 
 of the framework, 
 with dimensions 
 of all the parts. 
 You will note that 
 the front and 
 back portions are 
 identical, except 
 that the back has 
 an additional 
 strip (C), fasten- 
 ed between end 
 strips B midway 
 between strips A. 
 Hinge the front 
 and back together 
 as shown, then 
 cover all surfaces 
 of the strips with cretonne, fasten a piece of cretonne over 
 the back of the standing part of the frame, and over the 
 front of the hinged part, and form three cretonne pockets 
 in the places indicated. Drive nails into the upper edge of 
 strip C for 
 
 Spool-Spindles, provide a hook for scissors, screw a pair 
 of screw-eyes into the top of the back frame for hangers, 
 
 B 
 
 A 
 
 36" 
 
 7 
 
 c\j 
 
 -I 
 
 Fig. 137. — Detail of Framework 
 
FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 
 
 79 
 
 and fasten a pair of hooks to the hinged front, for hooking 
 it to the standing part. Tack the ends of a pair of heavy 
 tapes to the 
 hinged front and 
 the standing part, 
 to support the 
 front when it has 
 been opened. 
 
 The Sewing- 
 Stand (Fig. 138) is 
 a manual-training 
 problem well ad- 
 apted both to home 
 and school work. 
 
 Four legs of the 
 dimensions of A 
 (Fig. 139), eight 
 carpenter's dowel- 
 sticks of the di- 
 mensions of B (Fig. 
 140), and four 
 pegs of the length 
 of C (Fig. 139), 
 are the only pieces 
 of wood required. 
 For covering ma- 
 terial, a square 
 yard of cloth is 
 needed. 
 
 Fig. 138. — Sewing-Stand 
 
8o 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 For the legs, it is suggested that you use oak, chestnut, 
 ash, pine, or cypress. For the round sticks, use oak or 
 maple dowel-sticks. It does not matter whether the 
 sticks are of the same wood as the legs or not, because they 
 are to be concealed by the cloth covering of the sides. 
 If you buy material at a mill for the legs, order an 8-foot 
 piece i }/i inches square, surfaced four sides. 
 
 Figure 139 shows c vn -rr_. c^n 
 
 1? 
 
 p 
 
 °H 
 
 ^ 
 
 a cross-section of the 
 sewing-stand. Bevel 
 the top of legs A, as 
 shown, bore a pair 
 of 34-inch holes, 34 
 inch deep, in two 
 adjoining sides of 
 each leg, to receive 
 the ends of connect- 
 ing dowel-sticks B 
 (Fig. 140), and bore 
 a 34 -mc h hole H 
 inch deep in the top 
 of each leg to receive 
 the end of the spool 
 spindle C. The holes 
 must be bored accurately, otherwise it will be impossible 
 to set up the framework square and plumb. 
 
 Assembling. With the parts prepared, and sandpapered 
 smooth, coat the ends of dowel-sticks B with glue, and 
 drive them into the holes in legs A. Also coat the lower 
 
 1. 
 
 Fig. 139. — Cross-Section of Fig. 140. — Details 
 Framework of Sewing- of Legs and Connect - 
 Stand ing Dowel-Sticks 
 
FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 
 
 end of the spool-spindle pegs C with glue, and drive them 
 into the holes in the tops of the legs. 
 
 The Woodwork Must Be Finished before the covering 
 material is put on. It is suggested that you either stain 
 the wood and then wax it, or that you white-enamel it. 
 
 A Cretonne or Denim Covering is best for the sides of 
 the sewing-stand. A square yard cut in half, making two 
 strips }4 yard wide 
 by i yard long, is 
 ample. Preparing 
 this covering will 
 be mother's work 
 entirely. A double 
 hem must be made 
 along the ends of 
 the strips, for the 
 upper dowels B to 
 run through. If 
 you have glued up 
 the framework these 
 hems will have to 
 be sewed over the 
 sticks, of course. 
 If you want to, you 
 
 can wait until the strips have been hemmed before you 
 glue together the framework parts. Run each strip from 
 an upper dowel-stick down to and around the lower stick 
 on the same side, then across to the lower stick opposite, 
 and then up to the upper dowel-stick on that side. The 
 
 Fig. 141. — Waste-Basket 
 
82 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 strips will cross each other on the bottom, therefore the 
 sewing-stand will have a double bottom. 
 
 The Waste -Basket illustrated in Fig. 141 has the same 
 framework construction as the sewing-stand. The frame- 
 work is shown in Fig. 142, and a cross-section with dimen- 
 sions of the parts is shown in Fig. 143. 
 
 For covering the waste-basket, you will require half a 
 
 -J.JL 
 
 Fig. 142 Fig. 143 
 
 Fig. 142. — Completed Framework of Waste-Basket 
 Fig. 143. — Cross Section of Framework 
 
 yard more material than was used for the sewing-stand. 
 Cut the cloth into two strips, and put it on in the same way 
 that the sewing-stand sides and bottom are put on. 
 
 A Work-Bag on a Folding Support, like that shown in 
 Fig., 144, has several good points in its favor. When the 
 frames are spread, the bag is held open so its contents can 
 be reached easily; when the frames are folded, the bag is 
 
FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 
 
 83 
 
 closed, and in this compact form the work-bag may be 
 
 hung up in a clothes-closet, or stood behind a door or in 
 
 some other out-of-the-way place. 
 The bag support (Fig. 145) is made of two frames (Fig. 
 
 146). One of these frames is enough smaller than the other 
 
 to slip inside of it (Fig. 
 
 145). The frame dia- 
 grams (Fig. 146) show 
 
 the dimensions for the 
 
 strips required. Tack 
 
 crosspieces B and C 
 
 to sticks A, so the 
 
 upper crosspieces will 
 
 be y% inch below the 
 
 top of strips A, and so 
 
 the lower crosspieces 
 
 will be 8 inches above 
 
 the bottom. Locate 
 
 the exact center of the 
 
 length of strips A, and 
 
 at this point pivot the 
 
 frames together on 
 
 screws driven from the outer strips into the inner ones, as 
 
 shown in Fig. 145. 
 
 Figure 147 shows the piece of cretonne required for 
 
 The Bag. Cut the cloth 32 inches square, turn over two 
 
 opposite edges to a depth of 2 inches, make a hem in each 
 
 for a ribbon, and make a second hem to form a heading. To 
 
 fasten the cloth to the support, tie the ends of the ribbons 
 
 Fig. 144. — Work-Bag on Folding Support 
 
8 4 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 run through the hems, to the ends of upper crosspieces B 
 and C. Then turn the unhemmed edges of the cloth over 
 crosspieces B and C, make hems, and above each hem form a 
 heading. 
 
 The Fancywork-Box shown in Fig. 148 requires little 
 carpentry. After you have procured a box of the size 
 
 ■ — __ — 
 
 c 
 
 Cl "x-J-"x 
 
 I3§ 
 
 A 
 
 A 
 
 / c 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 145. — Folding Support 
 of Work- Bag 
 
 Fig. 146. — Details of Frames 
 for Work-Bag Support 
 
 desired, all that it is necessary to do is fasten together the 
 cover boards with a couple of battens nailed across them 
 as shown in Fig. 150, unless the boards have been lost or 
 broken, in which case you will have to make a new cover. 
 Place the battens close enough to the cover ends, and make 
 them of the right length, so when the cover is placed on the 
 box the battens will prevent the cover from shifting length- 
 wise and crosswise. By making this provision, hinges will 
 be unnecessary. 
 
FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 
 
 85 
 
 The Box Must be Covered to conceal the roughness of 
 the boards. A pretty figured cretonne looks well for the 
 outside, and a plain colored lining is best for the inside. 
 Before putting the covering on, tack a layer of cotton 
 wadding to the wood, for padding. Screw a brass handle 
 to the center of each end of the box. 
 
 Figure 149 shows how to tack 
 
 A Cloth Pocket and Elastic Tapes to the inside of the 
 cover; also how to make 
 
 Spool-Spindles by 
 driving nails into the 
 cover, and slipping 
 rubber bands over the 
 nail heads (Fig. 151) 
 to keep the spools from 
 dropping off. 
 
 The Fancywork-Box 
 with Legs shown in 
 Fig. 152 requires little 
 more work to make 
 than the box just de- 
 scribed. The legs are 
 strips 2 inches wide, 1 
 inch thick, and from 
 14 to 20 inches long 
 according to the height 
 
 Of box you Want. Six- FlG . 147 _ _ Cretonne for Work-Bag 
 
 teen inches is right if 
 
 the box is to be used as a bench to sit on. The leg strips 
 
86 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 must be of equal length, and they must be nailed to the box 
 corners so the tops are even with the top of the box (Fig. 153). 
 
 The cover of the fancywork-box should be wide enough 
 and long enough to project % inch over the sides all around. 
 Therefore you must use the cover boards from a larger 
 box. Nail a pair of battens across the boards to hold 
 them together 
 (Fig. 1 54). These 
 strips can be 
 placed upon the 
 under side of the 
 boards in such a 
 position that they 
 will keep the cover 
 from slipping 
 from side to side, 
 and from end to 
 end, when it is 
 placed upon the 
 fancywork - box. 
 By making the 
 cover to lift off, FlG 
 you will save your- 
 self the trouble 
 of putting on 
 hinges. 
 
 The Cretonne 
 Covering. Per- 
 haps you can get 
 
 Fig. 149 
 
 Fig. 148. — A Fancywork-Box 
 
 Fig. 149. — Arrangement of Pockets and Spool-Racks 
 Fig. 150. — Howto Batten Together the Cover Boards 
 Fig. 151. — A Spool- Rack 
 
FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 
 
 87 
 
 a large enough remnant in cretonne for the f ancywork-box . 
 The care with which you put this on the box will determine 
 whether or not the box will be a success. Perhaps you 
 had better ask mother to help you. Because grocery boxes 
 are more or less rough, and the boards are uneven, it is 
 
 Fig. 152. — A Fancywork Box with Legs 
 
 best to cover the wood with some other cloth first, for a 
 foundation for the cretonne. Stretch the cretonne over 
 each surface neatly, and use gimp tacks for fastening it. 
 Line the inside of the box with plain colored cambric. 
 Figure 155 suggests how the inside of the box may be 
 divided into compartments by cloth partitions. 
 
 The Sammy Spool-Holder shown in Fig. 156 will be a 
 delight to mother because of its novelty. Cutting out 
 the figure of Sammy is a simple scroll-saw problem. Review 
 what has been said about this work in Chapter II. 
 
 The patterns shown in Figs. 157 and 158 have been 
 
CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 154 
 
 made full-size, for a soldier boy standing 6 inches high 
 which is high enough for a spool-holder. You can take 
 tissue-paper and make a tracing of the outlines, then 
 transfer these on to your working material. Inasmuch 
 as it was thought that you might wish to enlarge or reduce 
 the figure, squares have been drawn checker-board fashion 
 on the pattern. 
 
 When you cut 
 out the figure, 
 saw just as close 
 to the outline as 
 possible. Be care- 
 ful not to saw 
 over the line. 
 After cutting, 
 finish the edges 
 with sandpaper. 
 The upper por- 
 tion of the body 
 (A, Fig. 157) is 
 connected with 
 the lower portion 
 (B) by means of a 
 dowel-stick (C). 
 Glue the upper 
 end of the stick 
 in a hole bored in 
 the upper portion 
 of the body, and whittle the lower end of the stick so that 
 
 Fig. 155 
 
 Fig. 153. — How the Legs are Nailed to the 
 
 Box Ends 
 Fig. 154. — The Completed Cover 
 Fig. 155. — How the Box is Partitioned off into 
 
 Compartments 
 
FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 
 
 it will fit loosely in a hole of the same size bored in the lower 
 portion of the body (B). Sammy's feet (Fig. 158) are made 
 large enough to give him a solid footing to stand on. Cut 
 a slot in this block and fit the end of the legs into it. 
 
 A Needle Forms Sammy's 
 Bayonet, and a small hole must be 
 drilled in the gun to stick it into. 
 
 Paint Sammy's Clothes khaki 
 color, his gun brown; and mark his 
 features, and outline his clothes, 
 with black paint. 
 
 If mother knits, she will appre- 
 ciate 
 
 A Yarn-Winder like that shown 
 in Fig. 159. It does not take long 
 to make one. 
 
 The winder arms are two wooden 
 strips (A and B, Fig. 160), pivoted 
 to the top of a base block (F, Fig. 
 165). The fingers at the arm ends 
 are spools (D, Fig. 162). 
 
 Figure 167 shows a face and an 
 edge of an arm strip, with dimen- 
 sions for cutting. At the exact 
 center of each strip, bore a 3^-inch 
 hole for the pivot bolt. To make 
 the top surfaces flush with each other, halve them at their 
 centers — that is, cut a piece 1 inch wide by % inch thick 
 from each strip, so the two will fit into one another. The 
 
 Fig. 156. — Sammy Spool- 
 Holder 
 
9° 
 . A 
 
 2, 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 6 
 
 7 
 8 
 9 
 
 SO 
 
 II 
 
 92 
 83' 
 (4 
 15 
 16 
 17 
 68 
 IS 
 20 
 21 
 22 
 23 
 24 
 
 CARPENTRY 
 B C D _JE F 
 
 
 
 /'I 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 
 i- 7 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 k) j > 
 
 l- 
 
 
 
 /vv^— 
 
 
 8 
 
 It 
 
 
 
 Ic 
 
 
 
 
 
 !nir- C " 
 
 / 1 
 
 p? 
 
 Hi 
 
 A) c 
 
 / 'Si 
 
 
 
 j3j^ 
 
 r 
 
 
 -^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 - r^' 
 
 
 
 iy 
 
 i 
 
 'l 
 
 
 
 
 # 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 b|/ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 frf 
 
 " = 1 
 
 
 
 
 \ c 
 
 > / . J 
 
 
 
 
 
 / 1 
 
 F ■*— 
 
 
 
 ,UJ. 
 
 *i 
 
 
 AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 6 H 
 
 notches must be cut of the 
 right width and depth, to make 
 a neat joint, so mark them out 
 carefully on the top and edges. 
 Cut a trifle inside of the marks, 
 using a saw to cut the ends of 
 the notch, and a chisel to split 
 out the wood between and trim 
 up the ends. 
 
 The arm ends are slotted so 
 the ringers may be adjusted 
 for different sizes of skeins. 
 Figure 167 shows dimensions 
 of the slots. Bore a 34-inch 
 hole at the slot end, then saw 
 from the arm end as far as the 
 hole. Trim up the slots with 
 a chisel, then smooth with 
 sandpaper. 
 
 The end fingers (D, Fig. 162) 
 are made of thread spools of 
 the form shown in Fig. 163. 
 You will need two spools for 
 each finger. Whittle down the 
 flange of one end of each spool, 
 then glue together these ends 
 of each pair of spools, and 
 with your knife and sand- 
 paper smooth the surface 
 
 Fig. 157. — Pattern of Sammy 
 
FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 
 
 9i 
 
 ABC 
 
 E F 
 
 from which the flanges were removed. Stove-bolts or 
 carriage-bolts 34 inch in diameter and 3 inches long (Fig. 
 164) are required for bolting the fingers to the arm ends. 
 If you will slip the bolt through the center hole of each 
 pair, you can screw the bolt-nut tight against the lower 
 spool end, and thus clamp the pair of spools together until 
 the glue has set. 
 
 Fasten together the arm strips 
 with a stove-bolt 34 inch in diam- 
 eter and 2 inches long (C, Fig. 161). 
 Screw the nut close against the 
 under side of strip B, as shown, to 
 hold the strips together. 
 
 Base F (Fig. 165), on which the 
 arms are pivoted to turn, has a 
 projection at its base to provide 
 for clamping it to a table top (Fig. 
 159). Figure 168 shows its dimen- 
 sions. Buy a 5-cent G-clamp for 
 
 clamping the base (Fig. 166). Bore a 34-inch hole in the 
 top of base F for the bolt to turn in. 
 
 You may shellac the yarn-winder, shellac and varnish it, 
 stain and wax it, or paint it. 
 
 If you want to make mother a pair of 
 
 Sweater Knitting Needles, get dowel-sticks 3 4e inch in 
 diameter. Cut them into 12-inch lengths (Fig. 169), 
 whittle one end to a point, and in the other end drive a 
 brass tack measuring ^i inch across the head (Fig. 170). 
 Drill a hole for the point of the tack, so it will not 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 
 2T ' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 158. — Sammy's Feet 
 
9 2 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 split the stick when you drive it in. Sandpaper the needles, 
 then shellac and varnish them. 
 
 Sock Knitting Needles are shorter than sweater needles. 
 
 Fig. 159. — Yarn-Winder 
 
 Make them as shown in Fig. 171, 8J-2 inches long, with both 
 ends pointed. 
 
 Figure 172 shows a pair of 
 
 Needle-Point Protectors, made of spools. Glue a coil 
 of paper inside of the spool hole (Fig. 173), to make the hole 
 small enough so the needle will fit snugly. 
 
 Every sewing-room has its whisk-broom, therefore 
 
Fig. 163 
 
 Fig. 162 
 
 O 
 
 B 
 
 Fig. 160 Fig.166 
 
 Fig. 160. — The Winder Arm Strips Figs. 162-164. — Details of Fingers 
 
 Fig. 161. — Center Connection of Arm Strips 
 Fig.165. — The Winder Base Fig.166. — Clamp for Fastening Base to a Table 
 
 93 
 
94 
 
 
 U) 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 T 
 
 _._L. 
 
 -KM 
 
 /I6 
 / : 
 
 -l(M 
 
 If) 
 
 K* 
 
 w 
 
 .J_u 
 
 H-F^f 
 
 3" 
 
 Fig. 167. — Detail of 
 Winder Arm Strips 
 
 -Icm 
 CO 
 
 L-b:fc 
 
 K-3" 
 
 f'Vi|ij 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 Fig. 168. — Detail of Winder Base 
 Fig. 173 
 
 
 Fig. 172 
 
 Fig. 170 
 
 Fig. 169. — Dowel-Stick Sweater Needle 
 
 Fig. 170. — A Brass Tack is Driven into the End 
 
 of the Sweater Needle 
 Fig. 171. — Dowel-Stick Sock Needle 
 Fig. 172. — Needle-Point Protectors 
 Fig. 173. — Spool Point Protector 
 
 A Whisk -Broom Holder like that shown in Fig. 174 should 
 be one of the things that you make for mother. 
 
FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 
 
 95 
 
 The holder illustrated requires a single board of the 
 dimensions shown in Fig. 175. In laying this out, first 
 draw a center-line upon the board, then lay off the measure- 
 ments for one-half of the board to one side of the line, make 
 
 Fig. 174.— Whisk-Broom Holder 
 
 Fig. 175.— Detail of Board Back 
 
 a tracing of this half, reverse the tracing, and transfer the 
 outline upon the opposite side of the center-line. 
 
 In cutting out the piece, saw a trifle outside of the outline, 
 so that you will have enough margin for smoothing up the 
 edge. Bore a pair of holes near the top of the board, in the 
 positions shown, to slip over wall hangers. 
 

 Have you ever tried your hand at making box furniture? 
 If not, you are unaware of the possibilities of such work. 
 Every shape of box, every size of box, suggests some prac- 
 tical article. Material is easily obtained, because grocers 
 generally have a good assortment on hand, and will be glad 
 to let you have what you need at the price the second-hand 
 man pays, which varies from ten cents to twenty-five cents, 
 according to size. 
 
 As a suggestion as to what to 
 make, a number of designs are 
 presented upon the following 
 pages, and the author knows 
 that when you have made some 
 of these pieces of furniture, other 
 ideas will suggest themselves to 
 you. Some of the pieces will be 
 just the thing for the porch and 
 garden. 
 
 Every boy needs a desk. 
 
 After a bed, chiffonier, and chair, 
 
 the desk is probably the most 
 
 essential thing to have in your 
 
 9 6 
 
 ffl 
 
 T2 — U U U — Cf 
 
 ffl 
 
 Fig. 179. — Front View of Desk 
 Shown in Fig. 176 
 
Fig. 176. — Desk Made of Packing-Box And Lattice-Strips. 
 
 ■* Fig. 177. — Desk Stool with 
 Box Top. 
 
 Fig. 178.— Waste-Basket with 
 Box Base. 
 
BOX FURNITURE 
 
 97 
 
 room. If you do not own a desk it is probably the first 
 piece of furniture which you will be interested in making. 
 Having learned from past experiences that the desk is 
 among the most popular of furniture models, the author 
 got to work the other day, and designed and built 
 
 The Packing-Box Desk shown in Fig. 176 with which 
 to begin this chapter on box furniture. 
 
 You prob- 
 ably will not 
 be able to find 
 a packing-box 
 of the exact di- 
 mensions of the 
 box that was 
 used in the 
 model illus- 
 trated, but no 
 matter. Get a 
 box of approxi- 
 mately this size 
 and alter the di- 
 
 ffi 
 
 Fig. 180. — Fig. 181. — 
 
 Back View of Desk Side View of Desk 
 
 mensions given 
 
 (Figs. 182 and 183), to suit it. Don't use an ordinary grocery 
 box. Get a heavier box than this; the kind with cross bat 
 tens nailed to the ends is best (Fig. 184). In addition to the 
 box, you will need several pieces of boards % inch thick, 
 for drop-leaves, cross-strips, shelves, etc., a berry-case or 
 two to provide thin wood out of which to construct pigeon- 
 
9 8 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 holes, and about sixty lineal feet of lattice-strip iH inch 
 wide for enclosing the lower portion, and for the legs. 
 
 Figures 179 to 183 show, in order, a view of the front of 
 the desk, the back, a side, and two cross-sections. Figure 
 184 shows the first step in preparing the packing-box, that 
 of removing one side. When the side has been removed, 
 cut strip A (Fig. 184) of the width shown in Fig. 183, and 
 
 -2-4" 
 
 Fig. 182 Fig. 1S3 
 
 Figs. 182 and 183. — Cross-Sections of Desk 
 
 fit and fasten it between the box ends as shown in Fig. 184; 
 then cut strip B (Fig. 184) of the width given in Fig. 183, 
 and fasten it between the upper end corners of the box. 
 Drop-leaf C can be cut out of a 12-inch board, if your box 
 is of the size of the box used in the model illustrated. Fit 
 this drop-leaf now, and hinge it to strip A with 1 J^-inch 
 
BOX FURNITURE 99 
 
 by 3 -inch hinges, then remove it and put it aside until after 
 the rest of the desk has been assembled. 
 
 A drawer is not the easiest thing in the world for a boy 
 to fit properly, therefore in the desk a pocket in the lower 
 portion has been substituted. This pocket, made the 
 depth of board A, is covered by the boards D and E (Fig. 
 185). Hinge the two pieces together, the latter to open 
 as a hinged-leaj. Fasten strips to the sides of the box 
 (F, Fig. 184) for cleats to support boards D and E, and 
 nail board D to the cleats. Bore a hole through board E 
 near the front edge, for a, finger-hole, by means of which to 
 raise the leaf. 
 
 Figure 187 shows the battery of 
 
 Pigeon-Holes. These are built of strips of wood from a 
 knocked-down berry-box. The best way to assemble the 
 partitions between the pigeon-holes is to halve the two 
 center vertical partitions with the two center horizontal 
 partitions — that is, saw slots in their edges as shown in 
 Fig. 1 88, so they will interlock. Nail the end, top, and 
 bottom pieces to the ends of these interlocked partitions, 
 and cut and fasten in position the remaining intermediate 
 partitions. 
 
 Before putting on the desk-top, build the base. The 
 packing-box's dimensions, and Fig. 182, will determine the 
 size of this. Figure 189 shows the way to assemble the 
 end lattice- work legs. When you have prepared the two 
 sections, nail the upper ends to the ends of the desk. Care 
 must be taken to get the legs of equal length, so the desk 
 will stand evenly. Cut the lower shelf and fasten it between 
 
ioo CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the lattice-strips as shown (Figs. 182 and 183), and cut 
 and fasten the back strips to the back edge of the shelf, 
 and to the back of the box. (Fig. 180). A strip corres- 
 ponding to the back strips, lapped over the front edges of 
 the desk, and the edges of the side strips (Figs. 176 and 179) 
 will form a finish to the desk front. A block fastened 
 between each of these strips and the bottom shelf, will 
 give support to the lower end of the front strips, and will 
 brace the side strips (Fig. 176). 
 
 After you have hinged the front drop-leaf in place, nail 
 a strip to the inner face of strip B, allowing it to project as 
 a stop for the drop-leaf to strike against. Attach a spring- 
 catch to the center of the top of the drop-leaf, and attach 
 a check-chain at each side of the drop-leaf, to screw-eyes 
 (Fig. 183), to prevent the leaf from dropping farther than 
 the position shown. The top boards should now be fitted 
 in place. Cut them of the right dimensions to make pro- 
 jections of the width shown. (Figs. 182 and 183). 
 
 Finishing. Rub down all of the woodwork with sand- 
 paper before applying a finish. You can stain the wood- 
 work with a stain made of oil paint thinned with turpentine, 
 or you can paint it, or you can shellac and varnish it. 
 If the wood is in good condition and of uniform color, you 
 can shellac and varnish it; otherwise, do not attempt this 
 method. If the wood is not good, painting will afford the 
 best opportunity for concealing knots, cracks and other 
 defects, because after the first coat of paint has dried, you 
 can fill in putty, and the second coat of paint will cover 
 it. Putty sticks best after one coat of paint has been 
 
Fig. 184 
 
 Fig. 189 
 
 Fig. 188 
 
 Fig. 187 
 
 Fig. 184. — First Step in Preparing Packing-Box for Desk 
 Fig. 185. — Top to Pocket Fig. 186. — Drop-Leaf for Desk Front 
 
 Figs. 187-188,— Details of Pigeon-Holes Fig. 189.— End Lattice-Strip Legs 
 
102 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 applied. White enamel makes a good finish for a bedroom 
 desk. 
 
 After you have completed your desk, you will want to make 
 A Desk Stool. Of course you can use an ordinary straight- 
 back chair to sit on, but a stool designed along the lines of 
 the desk will be more in keeping. Figure 177 shows a 
 stool_designed to go with the desk. You will notice that 
 the designs of the two are similar. The stool legs have 
 been made heavier than the desk legs, which is necessary, 
 of course, because the stool will receive rougher usage, 
 and it must be strong enough to withstand it. 
 
 A grocery-box forms 
 the top of the stool, 
 the legs and their 
 braces are cut out of 
 a K-inch board, and 
 the finishing-strips are 
 pieces of lattice-strips 
 or laths planed smooth, 
 3^-inch thick and i^ 
 inches wide. The box 
 used in the model was FlG 190 
 9 inches deep, 1 1 inches 
 wide, and 15 inches long. 
 
 Top 
 
 Box with Sides Cut Down. 
 of Stool Shown in Fig. 177 
 
 The width and length were 
 exactly right, but it was necessary to saw 3 inches from the 
 sides and ends (Fig. 190) to make the box of the right depth 
 of 6 inches. Square a line around the sides and ends, 
 remove any nails that happen to come in the way, and 
 saw off the portion above the line. 
 
BOX FURNITURE 
 
 103 
 
 Fig. 192 
 
 The legs are shown in place, in Fig. 191. Their upper 
 ends must be cut as shown in Fig. 192 to fit over the ends 
 of the box, so their outer edge will come flush with the 
 box ends. The length of the legs should be such that the 
 measurements from the floor to the top of the stool will 
 be 18 inches (Fig. 193). Cut the leg strips Vs inch thick 
 by 2 inches wide, fasten them in the box corners, as shown, 
 with nails driven 
 through the box 
 bottom into their 
 ends and through 
 the box sides and 
 ends into their 
 faces and edges. 
 Cut the leg braces 
 (B, Fig. 191) Vs 
 inch square to fit 
 between the legs 
 3 inches above 
 the lower ends. 
 
 Strips C (Fig. 
 193) are lattice- FlGS " 191 and l 92 - H ™ * he L ^ g Strips are Cut and 
 
 yo J rastened in Box Corners 
 
 strips or laths. 
 
 Nail them to the box sides with their top edges even with 
 the box bottom (Fig. 195). Fit finish strips D to the edges 
 of the legs as shown, butting their upper ends against 
 strips C. Cut the pair of end strips E to extend from 
 strips C to a point 3^2 incn below braces B and fasten 
 them so the spaces between the strips, and from strips to 
 
 Fig. 191 
 
io4 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 legs will be equal (Fig. 177). Cut strips F to fit upon 
 the corners of the box where shown (Fig. 193) ; their purpose 
 is to balance the design; they correspond to leg strips D, 
 except that they project only 1J4 inches below the box. 
 Cut rail H of the right length to reach from one leg brace B to 
 
 theother(Fig. 193). 
 Strips G (Figs. 
 193 and 194) form 
 a ledge around the 
 upholstering filling. 
 If you can get 
 some quarter- 
 round moulding 
 it will save your 
 planing the tops 
 round as shown. 
 When you have 
 nailed the strips 
 in place, trim off 
 the ends to make 
 round corners . 
 Upholstering. Fill in between the strips G with dampened 
 excelsior. Pack this in solid, and let it project 3^2 inch or 
 so above the top of the strips. Cover the excelsior with a 
 layer of cotton to prevent its showing through the covering 
 material, then cut a piece of cambric or other strong goods, 
 place it over the cotton, and tack it along one edge; draw 
 the cloth tight over the stool top, and tack along the opposite 
 edge (Fig. 197). The low places will now show up, and 
 
 Fig. 193 
 
 Fig. 193. — Detail Showing Stool Ready for Up- 
 holstering 
 
 Fig. 194. — Strip for Forming Ledge around Up- 
 holstering Material 
 
BOX FURNITURE 
 
 i°S 
 
 Fig. 195 
 
 ,CUOTH- COVERING 
 - COTTON 
 
 -EXCELSIOR 
 
 these must be filled with excelsior and cotton until a nicely 
 formed top is obtained. At the corners especially, it will 
 be necessary to build up by filling in additional excelsior. 
 Give plenty of time to this work. Bear in mind that 
 unless the upholstering is well done, the entire appearance 
 of the stool will be spoiled. When you are satisfied that 
 the top has been filled as well as you can fill it, pull the 
 covering material down over the ends, tack it in place, 
 and trim off the edges. 
 
 Finishing. — The 
 woodwork of the 
 stool should be sand- 
 papered next, then 
 painted or stained to 
 match your desk. 
 
 Colored cretonne 
 makes a pretty 
 
 Covering for the 
 Seat, but you can 
 use denim or any of 
 the imitation leather 
 material sold for 
 upholstering and 
 
 wall coverings. Place the material over the stool top, 
 tack along one side, smooth out all wrinkles, and tack the 
 opposite side, then tack the end edges (Fig. 195). Care- 
 fully fold over the lapping corners to make as neat a looking 
 piece of work as possible. After the edges have been 
 tacked, finish them off with a piece of gimp braid, fastening 
 
 Fig. 196 
 
 Fig. 195. — Section Through Corner of Stool 
 Figs. 196 and 197.— Details of Upholstering. 
 
io6 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 200 
 
 8^ T"8"*l 
 
 Fig. 199 
 
 Fig. 198 
 
 the braid with round-head tacks placed at equal distances 
 apart, as shown in Fig. 177. If you have used imitation 
 leather, you can get tacks with heads to match. The edges 
 of this material can be turned under, and tacked with small- 
 head tacks. Then the large-head tacks can be placed so 
 as to cover the heads of the small-head tacks. 
 
 The Waste- 
 Basket in the 
 photograph of 
 Fig. 178 has a 
 grocery-box foun- 
 dation (A Fig. 
 198) and sides 
 built up of short 
 lengths of lattice- 
 strips or of laths 
 planed smooth 
 upon both sides 
 or of strips ripped 
 out of box boards. 
 It is suggested 
 that you get a box 
 of about the size 
 used in the model, 
 
 7 Yz inches deep 
 
 8 inches wide and 
 12 inches long. The box the author used was too long 
 for the purpose so had to be cut down. If your box needs 
 alteration you will not find the work much of a trick. 
 
 Fig. 19S. — - Cross-Section of Waste Basket 
 
 Shown in Fig. 178 
 Fig. 199. — Detail of Tops of Side Strips 
 Fig. 200. — Detail of Handle 
 
BOX FURNITURE 
 
 107 
 
 Prepare all side and end strips at one time, the corner 
 strips longer than the intermediate strips, as shown. Trim 
 the upper corners with a small saw or chisel, as shown in 
 Fig. 199. Tack the corner strips in place first. Be careful 
 to get the projections of the lower ends equal, and to get 
 
 Fig. 202 
 Figs. 202 and 203. 
 
 Fig. 203 
 
 Rockers with Box Seats and Barrel-Stave Rockers 
 Shown in Fig. 201. 
 
 them parallel to and H inch away from the box corners (Fig. 
 198). Divide the spaces between the corner strips equally. 
 Figure 200 shows how the handles are made of a strip A 
 and two blocks B. Nail the strip A to blocks B, then 
 fasten the blocks to the ends of the basket (Fig. 198). 
 
 The basket will now be ready for finishing. It is sug- 
 gested that you finish the wood in one of the ways suggested 
 for the stool. 
 
CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 204 
 
 The Box Rockers in Fig. 201 are made of soap boxes, 
 with barrel-stave rockers, and backs made of strips cut 
 from box boards or any other boards that may be at hand. 
 
 The seat of each 
 chair is made of CjV-^i M^>\ 
 
 two soap boxes 
 placed with their 
 open tops to- 
 gether. In the 
 case of one chair, 
 that shown in 
 Fig. 202, the 
 boxes are held to- 
 gether by means 
 of a pair of strips 
 nailed to the front 
 and by means 
 of another pair 
 about 3 feet long (forming the uprights of the chair back) 
 nailed to the back. A board fastened to the uprights at 
 their top completes the chair back. 
 
 The rocker shown in Fig. 203 has its boxes held together 
 with strips fastened to the front corners, and a pair of strips 
 long enough to form the chair-back uprights fastened to 
 the box ends at the back. A diagram of the uprights is 
 given in Fig. 204. When you have nailed the uprights of 
 the chair back to the boxes, fasten a board across them 
 at the top. 
 
 Warping the Rockers. Barrel-staves are not warped 
 
 Fig. 204. — Detail of Chair Back Upright 
 Fig. 205. — Warping Barrell-Staves for Rocker 
 Fig. 206. — How the Rockers are Attached 
 
BOX FURNITURE, 
 
 109 
 
 enough for rockers. To increase the warp, place the staves 
 in a wash-tub filled with hot-water, and allow them to soak 
 for a half hour or so. Then rest the ends of the staves on 
 boxes or piles of bricks, and weight down the center with a 
 pile of bricks or other weight, as shown in Fig. 205. Make 
 the warp greater than is wanted, because when the weight 
 has been removed the stave will straighten out somewhat. 
 
 Figure 206 shows 
 how the rockers are 
 attached. Nail a 
 strip, measuring ij£ 
 inches thick, across 
 the chair bottom at 
 the center, then nail 
 the staves to this 
 strip and to the box, 
 allowing several 
 inches of the staves 
 to project beyond 
 the chair front, the 
 remainder of the 
 length at the rear. FlG ' 207 - ~ Box Table Shown in Fig ' 201 
 
 One of the simplest ways to make 
 
 A Table is shown in Fig. 207. The box used is inverted 
 so that the bottom becomes the table top. The legs are 
 strips 3 inches wide and 28 inches long. Fasten one leg 
 in each corner of the box. Measure the distance between 
 each end pair of legs, cut a pair of strips of a length equal 
 to this distance, and fasten a strip between each end pair 
 
no CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 of legs 4 or 5 inches from the ends, for braces. Cut another 
 strip of the right length to fit between these leg braces, and 
 fasten it to them for an additional brace. 
 
 Fig. 210.— 
 Leg Crosspeices 
 
 Fig. 208. — Tabouret Shown in Fig. 201 Fig. 209. — Framework of Tabouret 
 
 The Tabouret in Fig. 208, also shown in Fig. 201, has a 
 top made of a cheese-box cover. The legs are 1^ inches 
 wide by a length to be determined by the height of tabouret 
 you want. Twenty-one inches is a medium height. The 
 legs are connected by two pairs of crosspieces (Fig. 209), 
 each notched at the center as shown in Fig. 210, so that 
 the strips will interlock one another. The diameter of the 
 cheesebox-cover will determine the length of the strips. 
 Nail the legs to the ends of the braces, then nail the cover 
 to their tops. 
 
The description of home-made furniture in this chapter 
 has been confined to the making of the smaller pieces. 
 Some of you boys may be disappointed not to find designs 
 for a library-table, book-case, clock, Morris chair, and 
 pieces of similar proportions, but letters received from 
 readers since the publication of the handicraft book pre- 
 ceding this one, would indicate that small pieces are the 
 more popular. Many boys cannot make large pieces of 
 furniture because of the cost of material. 
 
 The Material to use in furniture making will be deter- 
 mined largely by what the local market offers. Perhaps 
 you can get any kind of wood that you want. The quantity 
 required for the furniture shown upon the following pages 
 is small, and the difference in costs between the finer and 
 commoner woods will be so little as to be almost negli- 
 gible. The wood used in the models shown in this chapter 
 is oak. Red oak and white oak are standard woods for 
 furniture just as are mahogany and walnut. If you intend 
 to finish the work with stain, nothing is better than oak 
 or chestnut. Of the softer woods, white-pine, western-pine, 
 cypress and whitewood are easily worked. With tools nicely 
 sharpened, and, of course, no good workman uses tools that 
 are not, hard woods are as easily worked as soft woods. 
 
ii2 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Finishing. The kind of finish to put on work will be 
 determined by the kind of wood. If you use oak, chestnut, 
 or other hard wood, having a pretty, open grain, do not 
 paint it, because paint will conceal the grain markings. 
 Instead, apply a finish that will accentuate the markings. 
 The best method is to stain the surface, then shellac and 
 varnish it, or simply wax it after staining. If you varnish 
 the wood after staining it, the open grain must be filled 
 with wood-filler before the varnish is applied, so the wood 
 will present a smooth glassy surface. If you stain and 
 wax the surface, filler is not necessary. Filling the grain 
 conceals the markings to a certain extent. 
 
 You can buy ready-prepared wood stains in any colors 
 wanted, at most paint stores. If you wish to, however, 
 you can make up a stain that will answer the purpose every 
 bit as well as a boughten stain, by thinning oil paint with 
 turpentine. Pretty effects can be produced by rubbing 
 oil paint of one color into the grain, then wiping the surface 
 clean, and applying a turpentine stain made of oil paint 
 of a contrasting color. The author does not want you to 
 try out any such schemes as this on a completed piece of 
 furniture, however. Use a waste piece of wood to exper- 
 iment on, and be satisfied that you will like the results 
 before applying stain to your work. 
 
 Soft wood has a close grain. If it has a well-defined 
 grain, like cypress, stain will make a pretty finish. Shellac- 
 ing and then varnishing is a method of finishing commonly 
 applied to soft woods. 
 
 When it comes to finishing furniture with paint, white- 
 
SMALL FURNITURE PROBLEMS 113 
 
 enamel makes a most desirable finish. Give the surfaces 
 two coats of flat-white paint, then one coat of white-enamel. 
 One difficulty with white-enamel is that unless the best 
 grade is used it soon turns more or less yellow. Never thin 
 white-enamel paint with linseed-oil, because this is bound 
 to make it turn yellow; use turpentine as a thinning medium. 
 Painting makes it possible to conceal defects to a certain 
 extent, but do not do careless work with the idea that you 
 can cover up with paint and putty and get away with it. 
 You can't do it. You are not a good enough camouflage 
 artist to hide defects in work that is to be inspected at close 
 range. Putty is to be used as a means of filling nail holes, 
 over the heads of countersunk nails, and for filling in around 
 joints. Work it in after the first coat of paint has dried. 
 It holds better then, because the holes and joints are partly 
 filled with paint. 
 
 Before you apply any finish to work, be certain that all 
 surfaces have been gone over thoroughly with sandpaper 
 and made smooth. 
 
 In the furniture designs shown in Figs. 211 to 214, you 
 will notice that there is a similarity in parts. This dupli- 
 cation of parts will simplify marking out the work, if you 
 make up the several pieces of furniture, because having one 
 part in each shape, you can mark around them in laying 
 out like pieces. 
 
 The number of pieces of wood required for 
 
 The Waste -Basket shown in Fig. 211, and their dimen- 
 sions, are indicated in the material bill (Fig. 215), patterns 
 for the pieces are given in Figs. 216 and 218. The Irame 
 
ii4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 around the top of the basket (Fig. 217) must be of the 
 exact width and length of base A. Cut strips B and C 
 of the sizes given in Fig. 215, but, in nailing them together 
 
 MATERIAL -for -WASTE-BASKET! 
 
 pieces! dimensions 
 
 PARTS I 
 
 1 
 
 ^4"X7 3 /4"X7%" 
 
 A 
 
 2 
 
 5/fl"x 1 Vo" X7 3 /4" 
 
 B 
 
 2 
 
 5/ 8 " x| !/2" x6'/2" 
 
 C 
 
 8 
 
 V4"X \VA" XI8" 
 
 D 
 
 8 , 
 
 k"xl!4" XI7J&" 
 
 E 
 
 Fig. 215 
 
 Fig. 216 
 
 Fig. 219 
 
 Fig. 215. — Material Reauired for Waste-Basket Shown in Fig. 211 
 Fig. 216. — Detail of Base Fig. 217. — Detail of Top Frame 
 
 Fig. 218. — Detail of Side Strips Fig. 219. — Assembling 
 
 use the base board as a guage, so as not to get the frame 
 larger or smaller. 
 
 Side strips D (Fig. 218) project l / 2 inch below the base 
 board of the waste-basket; side strips E (Fig. 218) come 
 
Fig. 214. — Smoker's Stand. 
 
 Fig. 213.— Plant-Stand 
 

SMALL FURNITURE PROBLEMS 
 
 "5 
 
 MATERIAL FOR TABOURET 
 
 
 PIECES 
 
 DIMENSIONS 
 
 PARTS 
 
 
 2 
 
 3/4"x73/ 4 "x73/ 4 
 
 A 
 
 
 8 
 
 '/4" x IV4 M X 18 
 
 B 
 
 
 Fig. 220 
 
 3" 
 
 CO 
 
 B 
 
 flush with the bot- 
 tom of the base 
 board. The pro- 
 jecting lower end 
 of strips D form 
 feet. Cut off the 
 corners of the 
 upper ends, and 
 the corners of the 
 lower ends of 
 strips D, as shown. 
 Fasten the side 
 strips to the edge 
 of the base board, 
 and to the sides of 
 the upper frame, 
 with round-head 
 blued iron Jinish- 
 ing-screws^ %-inch 
 in diameter. Use 
 i -inch screws for 
 the lower ends, 
 and %-inch screws for the upper ends. Drill large enough 
 holes through the side strips so the screw shanks will fit 
 loosely in them, and if you have used hard wood, drill 
 holes a trifle smaller than the screws part way into the 
 edges of the base board and the top frame. When driving 
 screws into hard wood, coat the threads with soap to make 
 driving easier. 
 
 I 
 
 Fig. 221 
 
 Fig. 222 
 
 Fig. 
 
 220. — Material Required for Tabouret 
 Shown in Fig. 212 
 Fig. 221. — Plan and Section of Base Block 
 Fig. 222. — Face and Edge of Side Strips 
 
n6 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 it* 
 
 The Tabouret shown in Fig. 
 212 is made of pieces similar to 
 those used in the waste-basket, 
 but it does not require as many 
 kinds of pieces, or as many of 
 each kind. Figure 220 shows a 
 list of material and Figs. 221 
 and 222 show the dimensions. 
 
 The Plant-Stand in Fig. 213 
 is made of pieces of three shapes 
 (Fig. 223). For the material 
 list, see Fig. 224, for patterns of 
 the pieces, see Figs. 226 to 228. 
 The base board has its upper 
 edge beveled (Fig. 226); the 
 edges of the shelf board are left 
 square. 
 
 Brackets C require careful 
 marking out and sawing. Use a 
 bracket-saw or coping-saw (Figs. 
 18 and 19, Chap. II) for cutting the curves. Be careful to 
 get all four brackets alike. In fastening them to center- 
 post B, use glue and round-head screws, unless the wood is 
 soft, in which case the brackets can be fastened with finishing 
 nails. Screw down through the lower bracket end into the 
 base board, and up through the upper bracket end into the 
 shelf. Be careful to center the base board and shelf board on 
 the center post, and also one exactly over the other. If you 
 don't center them you will have a poor looking piece of work. 
 
 Fig. 223. — Parts Required for 
 Plant-Stand Shown in Fig. 213 
 
SMALL FURNITURE PROBLEMS 
 
 117 
 
 Fig. 224 
 
 Fig. 225 
 
 MATERIAL --FOR-PLANT-STAND 
 
 PIECES 
 
 DIMENSIONS 
 
 PARTS 
 
 2 
 
 3/4"X7 3 /4"x7 3 / 4 " 
 
 A 
 
 1 
 
 |3/ 4 "x |3/4" X 12" 
 
 B 
 
 4 
 
 3/4"X2/4"xl2" 
 
 C 
 
 MATERIAL- FOR ■ SMOKER'S-STAND 
 
 PIECES 
 
 DIMENSIONS 
 
 ^ARTS 
 
 3 
 
 3/ 4 "x7 3 /4"x7 3 /4" 
 
 A 
 
 1 
 
 |3/ 4 "x l^4"X 12" 
 
 B 
 
 4 
 
 3/4" X2'/4"X 12" 
 
 C 
 
 8 
 
 '/4"X l!/4"X)4" 
 
 D 
 
 
 .3" 
 
 'Square' 
 
 ^A 
 
 ki> 
 
 Fig. 226 
 
 Fig. 229 
 
 1 
 
 Fig. 228 Fig. 227 
 Fig. 224. — Material Required for Plant-Stand Shown in Fig. 213 
 Fig. 225. — Material Required for Smoker's Stand Shown in Fig. 214 
 Fig. 226. — Plan and Section of Base and Shelves A 
 Fig. 227. — Detail of Base Center Post B 
 Fig. 228. — Side and Edge of Base Brackets C 
 Fig. 229. — Side and Edge of Side Strips D 
 
 The Smoker's Stand in Fig. 214 is a development of fthe 
 plant-stand design. It is just like it, with the addition of 
 a second shelf supported by side strips screwed to the edges 
 
n8 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 of the two shelves. Figure 225 gives a list of material. 
 Figure 229 shows a pattern of side strips D. 
 
 The Book-Trough and Magazine -Stand shown in Fig. 
 230 makes a most convenint piece of furniture for a library 
 or living-room, to hold books and magazines of recent issue. 
 
 Figure 232 shows a material list. Only five pieces of 
 boards are required, two end pieces (A), two trough strips 
 (B), and a shelf (C). If you order i-inch boards planed 
 upon both faces, known as surf aced-two-s ides (s-2-s), they 
 will measure between % inch and 13 /fe inch thick when "you 
 get them, because i-inch boards are sawed about 14 inch 
 thick, nowadays, and about % i ncn is taken off in surfacing. 
 In the case of this piece of furniture, and the pieces preceding 
 it, ^-inch stock will be in better proportion than thicker 
 material. 
 
 Figure 233 is a cross-section of the completed trough 
 and stand, with dimensions, Fig. 234 is a side view, Fig. 235 
 is an end view, and Figs. 237 and 238 are patterns of the 
 shelf and trough boards. 
 
 You will find upon the detail drawings every measurement 
 necessary for preparing the parts. The ends should be 
 cut first. Saw these to the right length and width, and 
 cut the side edges to the right taper. Then make a card- 
 board pattern, or templet, of the lower end, with the curve 
 carefully laid out (Fig. 236), and mark out around this 
 upon each piece of board. With a bracket-saw or coping- 
 saw cut the curve, sawing close to the lines, and with a 
 chisel and sandpaper smooth up the edge. 
 
 With the end pieces cut, mortises to receive the ends of 
 
>k-Tkough and Magazine-Stand 
 
 Fig. 231.— Telephone Table and Chair. 
 
A 
 
 [!•*— 9g — »il 
 
 ] 
 
 < 
 
 36 
 
 *1 
 
 
 B 
 
 
 A 
 
 * 
 
 A 
 
 
 
 Fig. 234 
 
 
 ~T 
 
 A 
 
 ,4,= 
 
 k--ll£--»j 
 
 Fig. 235 
 
 I.J 
 
 -iOO 
 
 Fig. 237 
 
 MATERIAL- LIST 
 
 NO. 
 PIECES 
 
 DIMENSIONS 
 
 PARTS 
 
 2 
 
 3 /4."x|2"x28-S-2-S 
 
 ENDS 
 
 2 
 
 « x4"x36" •• 
 
 TROUGH 
 
 1 
 
 .. x|0"x » M 
 
 SHELF 
 
 Fig. 232 
 
 Fig. 232.— Material Required for Book-Trough and Magazine-Stand (Fig. 230) 
 
 Fig. 233.— Cross-Section Fig. 234.— Side View Fig. 235.— End View 
 Fig. 236.— Bottom of End Pieces Fig. 237.— Shelf Fig. 238.— Trough Board 
 
i2o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the trough and shelf boards must be marked out and cut. 
 Upon the accuracy of this work depends the perfect fitting 
 together of parts. The mortises for trough strips B must 
 be placed at right angles to each other, and all mortises 
 must be y% inch less than the board-end measurement, 
 on all sides. Cut them 3^ inch deep. Tenons must be 
 prepared upon the board ends to fit the mortises, as indi- 
 cated upon the diagrams (Figs. 237 and 238). The shoul- 
 ders of these tenons will lap over the edges of thejnortises 
 when the parts are assembled, and will conceal them; they 
 will also help to brace the work. The mortises must be 
 cut y% inch deeper than the tenons, and the tenons must 
 be made to fit loosely enough so that when they are coated 
 with glue, previous to assembling the parts, they will drive 
 in easily, yet be tight enough to make a snug fit. Use a 
 chisel with which to cut the mortises. Cut down along 
 the sides, first, then chip out the wood between, and smooth 
 off the bottoms. Cut the shoulders with a fine-tooth saw. 
 With the mortises and tenons carefully prepared, the 
 book-trough and magazine-stand can be glued up. Glue 
 alone will hold the work, but screws must be driven in to 
 reinforce the joining. Four screws driven through each 
 end, one into each of the book-trough strips, and two into 
 the shelf board, as indicated in Fig. 235, will be sufficient. 
 Locate the holes in the positions shown, and with a gimlet 
 or wood-bit drill holes through the end pieces, and into the 
 ends of boards B and C, making the holes in the end pieces 
 a trifle larger than the screw shank, the holes in the ends 
 of boards B and C a trifle smaller than the screw shanks. 
 
SMALL FURNITURE PROBLEMS 121 
 
 Buy round-head blued iron finishing-screws %-inch in 
 diameter and 2 inches in length, for the work. 
 
 A Telephone Table and Chair are two serviceable pieces 
 of furniture which a handy boy can easily make. If there 
 is no telephone in the house, the table and chair will be 
 useful in the front hallway — the table to hold a card-tray, 
 the chair for the stranger who is awaiting mother or father. 
 
 The Table, shown in Fig. 231, has a shelf on which to keep 
 the telephone directory. This shelf is placed at the right 
 height so the chair seat will slide underneath it, and the 
 chair back has been made low enough to slide under the 
 edge of the table top, so the chair can be kept entirely 
 under the table when not in use. 
 
 Figure 239 shows a bill of material for the table. The 
 table top is 16 inches square, therefore it will have to be 
 made of two pieces. Unless you already have had exper- 
 ience in glueing up work, the author advises you to have 
 this piece glued up at a mill. It will not cost much. How- 
 ever, if you want to do the work yourself, Fig. 245 shows 
 how to go about it. Make the top of two pieces of equal 
 width. The first thing to be certain of, after planing up 
 the pieces, is that the faces are straight and true, and that 
 the joining edges are exactly square, lengthwise and cross- 
 wise. With these conditions met, place the pieces back to 
 back in your bench-vise, with the joining edges even with 
 one another, and square lines across the edges at the center 
 and near each end, to mark the positions for dowel-pin 
 holes. At the center of these lines bore ^-inck holes about 
 1 H inches deep, being careful to bore them exactly at right 
 
JZ 
 
 CD 
 t 
 
 cm 
 
 L.U 
 
 a 'A 
 
 B 
 
 I r 1 
 
 1 1 J-' 
 ll 2 
 
 Fig. 240 
 
 MATERIAL 
 
 PIECES 
 
 DIMENSIONS 
 
 PARTS 
 
 4 
 
 |'/4"xl^4"x2-5J'4 
 
 LEGS A 
 
 2 
 
 3/4" x 2"x|2J4" 
 
 RAILS B 
 
 2 
 
 •• * - x||l/2 
 
 » C 
 
 2 
 
 •• x •• x|2&" 
 
 - D 
 
 2 
 
 .. x 8"* 16" 
 
 TOP E 
 
 1 
 
 • *9&x|3%" SHELF F 
 
 Fig. 239 
 
 r 
 
 -ICVJ 
 
 CD 
 
 _L 
 
 D D 
 
 I" 
 2" 
 
 Fig. 241 
 
 Fig. 239. — Material Required for Telephone Table Shown in Fig. 231 
 Fig. 240. — Side View of Table Fig. 241. — Cross-Section of Table 
 
 Fig. 242. — Plan of Table Top E Fig. 243. — Detail of Rails B and D 
 
 122 
 
SMALL FURNITURE PROBLEMS 
 
 123 
 
 angles to the edges. Get a dowel-stick to fit the holes, 
 and cut dowel-pins from it a trifle shorter than the combined 
 depth of a pair of the holes. Coat the pins with glue, also 
 
 Fig. 244 
 
 Fig. 244. — Detail Showing Mortise-and-Tenon Joints of Legs and Rails 
 
 Fig. 245. — Detail of Table Top 
 
 Fig. 246. — Detail Showing Legs, Rails and Top Assembled 
 
 both edges of the boards, then drive the pins into the holes. 
 Put the work in clamps, and allow it to remain until the 
 glue has set. Now, if you have done the work correctly, 
 you will have a perfectly joined top. 
 
 Figure 240 shows a side view of the table, and Fig. 241 
 shows a cross-section with the principal dimensions. Rails 
 
124 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 B and D have tenons cut upon their ends (Figs. 243 and 244), 
 and mortises for these to fit in are cut in the legs (Fig. 244). 
 Rails C are not tenoned; they fit between the legs. 
 
 Top E and shelf F are screwed in place, the screws passing 
 through the rails into them. As it would require very long 
 screws if you ran them entirely through the rails into the 
 table-top and into the shelf, holes are bored halfway through 
 the rails (Fig. 244), and then holes a trifle larger than the 
 screw shank, but smaller than the heads, are drilled through 
 the rest of the way, so screws about i}4 inches long can 
 be used. Provide two screw-holes for each rail, one near 
 each end (Fig. 246). 
 
 To assemble the table, after having cut every piece of 
 the correct size, and prepared the leg mortises and rail 
 tenons, first coat the mortises and tenons with glue, and 
 drive the tenons into the mortises. Then upon the under 
 side of top E mark out the positions for the legs, and screw 
 rails B to the top; coat the ends of rails C with glue, slip 
 them between the legs, and screw them to the top. Screw 
 rails D to shelf F in a similar manner. 
 
 In Fig. 247 is specified the material required for 
 
 The Chair. The legs are mortised to receive the ends of 
 the rails, in the same manner as those of the table are 
 mortised. That is to say, mortises are made for the ends 
 of rails C, D, E, F, G, and /. Mortises for side rails H 
 would cut into those for rails C and F, so rails H are not 
 tenoned, but are cut to fit between the legs. You will see 
 by Fig. 249, which is a plan view of the chair, that seat / 
 is notched at the corners to fit around legs B; also, that 
 
A 
 
 D 
 
 r 
 
 Fig. 250 
 
 I* 11- 
 
 Fig. 249 
 Fig. 247 
 Fig. 248. — Front View 
 
 MATERIAL 
 
 PIECES 
 
 DIMENSIONS 
 
 PARTS 
 
 2 
 
 IK4"XI!/4"xW4" 
 
 LEGS A 
 
 2 
 
 •• x2%"x2 1 5" 
 
 •• B 
 
 1 
 
 3A" x 2" x 8 3/f 
 
 RAIL C 
 
 1 
 
 •• x 3/4"x - 
 
 - D 
 
 I 
 
 •• x 2" x9l/4" 
 
 E 
 
 1 
 
 x •• X •• 
 
 F 
 
 1 
 
 •• X 3/}."x •• 
 
 G 
 
 2 
 
 •• x2"xl0k8 
 
 RAILS H 
 
 2 
 
 •• x3/4"x|0%' 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 •■ x ||" x |3" 
 
 SEAT a 
 
 Fig. 247 
 Material Required for Telephone Chair Shown in Fig. 231 
 Fig. 249. — Plan Fig. 250. — Cross-Section 
 125 - 
 
126 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 legs B are set y% inch farther apart than legs A, which 
 makes it necessary to run rails H into the center of the 
 width of legs A, and into the inside half of legs B. Bore 
 one hole through the center of the edge of rails C, F, and H, 
 in the same manner as holes were bored through the table 
 rails (Fig. 244), to provide for attaching the chair seat. 
 (Fig. 250). 
 
 In assembling the chair, drive the tenons on rails C and 
 D into the mortises cut in legs A, then drive the tenons of 
 rails E, F, and G into the mortises cut in legs B. Connect 
 legs A and B by means of rails /, and, finally, screw rails 
 C, F, and H to the under side of the seat. 
 
 When you have assembled your table and chair, you may 
 find that the legs are a trifle uneven. The way to correct 
 this is to stand the table, then the chair, upon a surface 
 known to be level, and note the short leg. Cut a block of 
 wood of the right thickness to slip under this leg. Then 
 slide this block around each side of the other legs, marking 
 where its top comes on each face of each leg. Trim off the 
 legs_at these points. 
 
PART II 
 
 War Toys and 
 Mechanical Toys 
 
Fig. 268.— A Toy Submarine that Dives then Rises to the Water's 
 Surface (See Chapter 11). 
 
 Fig. 251.— A Superdreadnought Toy Battleship (See Chapter 10). 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 A TOY SUPERDREADNOUGHT 
 BATTLESHIP 
 
 To make a model that would be an exact reproduction 
 of a modern battleship , you would not only have to possess 
 a set of scale drawings of the ship, but an abundance of 
 patience, and a willingness to devote lots of time to the 
 work. The author would be glad if you could make an 
 exact model, because he knows that you would get a great 
 deal of enjoyment and practical experience out of the work, 
 but he suggests that your first model be simple. You can 
 elaborate upon a second model as much as you please. 
 
 The way to make a simplified model of a battleship, 
 building, piece of machinery, or any other structure, is to 
 get a picture of it, or to look upon the object itself, and pick 
 out the half dozen or so parts which determine its contour; 
 then reproduce these parts in as nearly the correct propor- 
 tion as you can. Take the author's model, shown in the 
 photograph of Fig. 251, for example. The essential parts 
 are not many. They are the hull, deck, masts, funnels, 
 main-battery guns and turrets, and the secondary-battery 
 guns below the deck. The deck-rails, fighting-tops, and 
 wireless aerial might be omitted without destroying the 
 lines which give the ship its form. Details other than 
 those shown upon the model illustrated can be added if 
 you wish to spend more time upon the work. 
 
 129 
 
13 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Materials. The best material for model making is white 
 pine, but cypress, spruce, or any other soft wood, will serve 
 the purpose. For the hull of the battleship model shown 
 in Fig. 251 a piece of 2 by 4 is of the right width and thick- 
 ness. The funnels, turrets, and fighting-tops also can be 
 cut out of a 2 by 4. A board % inch thick is required for 
 the superstructure-deck. The masts require a narrow strip 
 of wire cloth with 34-inch mesh, and four spools. The deck 
 rails are also made of wire cloth. Spools are used for 
 wheels to mount the model on. The guns are cut from 
 dowel-sticks 3^ inch and % inch in diameter, the small gun 
 mounts are cut from a ^-inch dowel-stick. The pins con- 
 necting the various parts are cut from 34-inch dowel-sticks. 
 Button-moulds 1% inches in diameter fit over the ends of 
 the gun turret pivots. 
 
 -5- k 5 • f- 
 
 FlG. 252. — Plan and Side Elevation of Hull 
 
 Figure 252 shows a plan and side elevation of 
 The Hull, with all of the dimensions necessary for cutting 
 it out. Figure 253 shows the completed hull. The curves 
 of the ends should be alike, and the best way to get them 
 
A TOY SUPERDREADNOUGHT BATTLESHIP 131 
 
 alike is to draw a center-line lengthwise, and another center- 
 line crosswise of the block; then mark out one-half of the 
 outline of one side, drawing the straight line with a ruler, 
 the curved line freehand. Trace this much upon tissue- 
 paper, reverse the paper, and transfer the line each side of 
 the center-lines, to complete the outline. First, cut out 
 the block roughly with a saw, then finish up close to the 
 outline with a plane, and sandpaper the edges smooth. 
 
 Fig. 253. —The Completed Hull 
 
 The Superstructure- Deck (B, Figs. 254 and 255) may 
 be marked out by placing the hull block upon a board % 
 inch thick, and marking out around its sides. The deck 
 
 17" — 
 
 ■3i 
 
 -Fi — -*— b : ^ 5 ri B Eg s&ls 
 
 4- -fii'f iif iif iff-iff i|'H 
 
 Fig. 254. — Plan and Side Elevation of Superstructure-Deck 
 
 piece is a trifle more than two-thirds of the length of the 
 hull. The dimensions are on the diagrams (Fig. 254). 
 
i 3 2 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Openings for the guns must be cut in the deck piece along 
 the side edges. The openings are made by boring 3^-inch 
 holes y 2 inch deep (Figs. 251 and 255). They are located 
 in Fig. 254. The centers are placed y% inch inside of the 
 
 Fig. 255. — Detail Showing How the Superstructure-Deck, Funnels, Masts, 
 Fighting-Tops, Gun-Turrets, and Wireless Aerial are Assembled 
 
 edges, so that brads can be driven through the centers for 
 pivots for the guns. Bore the holes before cutting out piece 
 B, so there will be no danger of splitting the edges. Be care- 
 ful to bore all holes of equal depth. 
 
A TOY SUPERDREADNOUGHT BATTLESHIP 133 
 
 ."T - 
 
 OiO 
 
 OiO 
 
 K 
 
 M 
 
 E 
 
 .1 
 
 D 
 
 
 D 
 
 
 T 
 
 -Icj 
 <3" 
 
 Funnels C, conning-tower E, fighting-tops K, turret bases 
 M, and turrets N (Fig. 255) are most easily prepared as 
 shown in Figs. 256 and 257. If 
 you can get round sticks of this 
 diameter — rug-poles or portiere 
 poles, — use them; otherwise, 
 plane up two blocks, one i}4 
 inches square, the other \% 
 inches square, describe a circle 
 with the given radii upon the 
 ends of the blocks, and whittle 
 or plane the edges until the 
 blocks are round. Finish up the 
 surfaces with sandpaper. With 
 the blocks prepared, it is an easy 
 matter to saw them up to the 
 lengths required. 
 
 The tops of 
 
 The Funnels will look better if 
 bored out for a depth of 3^ inch 
 or so (Fig. 255). Bore the holes 
 before rounding the block the 
 funnels are to be cut out of, to 
 prevent splitting. The funnels 
 are fastened to the deck with 
 dowel-pins D (Fig. 255). Bore 
 the pin holes in the deck where 
 located in Fig. 254, and in the 
 center of the funnel ends. Coat 
 
 -|CM 
 
 i 
 
 Fig. 257 
 
 Fig. 256 
 
 Fig. 256. — Detail of Funnels 
 
 Fig. 257. — Detail of Conning- 
 Tower, Fighting-Tops, Turret 
 Bases and Turret 
 
134 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the dowel-pins and funnel ends with glue, before driving 
 the dowel-pins into the holes. 
 
 Flatten two opposite sides of 
 block E (Fig. 257) for 
 
 The Conning-Tower,by cutting 
 away a section of each side, as 
 shown in Fig. 255. Peg this 
 block to the deck with a dowel- 
 pin driven into a hole bored at 
 the point located in Fig. 254. 
 
 The Masts are built up of 
 strips of wire cloth (G and H t 
 (Fig. 258) rolled into cylinders 
 with a spool inserted in each end 
 (I and /, Fig. 255). The strips 
 of wire cloth can be rolled around 
 the spools. Turn in the raw 
 side edges of the wire strips so 
 the wire cylinders will hold their 
 shape. The sticks running 
 through spools / (Fig. 255) are 
 crosstrees from which the wire- 
 less-telegraph aerial ( U) is suspended. Peg spool I of the 
 foremast to block E with dowel-pin F, and peg spool I of 
 the aftermost mast to the deck where the dowel-pin hole is 
 located in Figs. 254 and 255 with another dowel-pin (F). 
 Make the spreaders of 
 
 The Wireless Aerial (Fig. 255) out of slender sticks, and 
 use black thread for the wire strands ( U). 
 
 h 
 
 Fig. 258. — Pattern for Cutting 
 Wire Cloth for Masts 
 
A TOY SUPERDREAD NOUGHT BATTLESHIP 135 
 
 Fighting -Tops K are fastened to mast spools / by means 
 of dowel-pins L, which are driven into the spool holes. 
 
 The Turret Bases and Turrets. Holes must be bored 
 through the center of turret blocks N, turret base blocks 
 M, and into the o ^ 
 
 decks (Figs. 251, ^.Jj,—--— ^^ 1" ^Jh^ f^X.' 
 
 253 and 255), for ^^r^^j 4 -illJ ' & 
 
 dowel-pin pivots r^"" ^4 ~~ *> **~*Q 
 
 P to run through. Fig. 259 Fig. 260 • 
 
 These holes are Fig. 259. — Main-Battery Guns 
 
 located in FigS. Fig. 260. - Secondary- Battery Guns 
 
 252 and 254. Make the pivots out of 3^-inch dowel-sticks, 
 or whittle sticks to this diameter. Glue the lower ends 
 of the pivots in the holes bored in the decks, whittle the 
 upper ends to fit the holes in button-moulds measuring 1 % 
 inches in diameter (Q, Fig. 255), and glue the button-moulds 
 to the pivot ends after the turret base blocks and turret 
 blocks have been slipped over the pivots. Holes must be 
 bored in the side of the turret blocks for the guns to run 
 into. To lessen the danger of splitting the blocks while 
 boring, it is best to bore the holes before sawing the blocks 
 from the stick from which they are cut. Figure 257 shows 
 the location of the holes. 
 
 The Main Battery Guns (0, Fig. 255), mounted in the 
 turrets, are shown in detail in Fig. 259. Take a 34-inch 
 dowel-stick, or a stick whittled to this diameter, and cut 
 from it eight pieces of the length shown (Fig. 261), then 
 with a small wood-bit or drill, start a hole for the bore in 
 the muzzle end of the guns, and with a jack-knife carefully 
 
i3 6 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Hit- 
 
 ' 
 
 "■■ 
 
 7 
 
 CM 
 
 --* 
 
 C\| 
 
 n 
 
 v 
 
 i 
 
 CM 
 
 
 •;1 
 
 HOD 
 
 "i 
 
 -103 
 
 -100 
 -100 
 
 "-loo 
 -103 
 
 4 
 
 -loo 
 
 fOlco 
 •-*■ 
 
 roico 
 • + 
 fOico 
 
 ■•+ 
 
 CO icO 
 I— *- 
 
 COKO 
 I. jt. 
 
 Fig. 2G2 
 
 1 
 
 Fig. 261 Fig. 263 
 
 Fig. 261 — Detail Showing How to 
 Cut the Main-Battery Guns from 
 a J^-inch Dowel-Stick 
 
 Fig. 262. — Detail Showing How to 
 Cut Secondary - Battery Gun 
 Mounts from a ^-inch Dowel-Stick 
 
 Fig. 263. — Detail Showing How to 
 Cut Secondary-Battery Guns from 
 a V^-inch Dowel-stick 
 
 taper the guns from end to end, 
 as shown in Fig. 259. Smooth 
 up the guns with sandpaper. 
 Glue them in the holes in the 
 turret blocks. 
 
 The Secondary-Battery 
 Guns are mounted in the round 
 blocks R (Fig. 255). Cut four- 
 teen of the blocks from a yi- 
 inch dowel-stick (Fig. 262). 
 With a small bit or drill make 
 a pivot hole through the 
 center of the ends of each block, 
 and another hole in the side 
 of the block to run the gun into. 
 Prepare the guns of the shape 
 shown in Fig. 260. Cut them 
 from a dowel-stick y% inch in 
 diameter (Fig. 263). Start a 
 hole in the muzzle end of each 
 gun for the bore. 
 
 The Flagstaff s {V, Fig. 255) 
 are 3 inches long. Drill holes 
 for them at the bow and stern 
 of the decks. 
 
 The Deck-Rails are made of 
 strips of wire cloth. Cut two 
 strips Y 2 inch wide, one for the 
 superstructure deck, the other 
 
A TOY SUPERDREADNOUGHT BATTLESHIP 137 
 
 for the lower deck. Drive ^-inch brads into the decks 
 close to the sides (W, Fig. 264), bend the wire strips around 
 the brads, and with wire bind them to the brads. 
 
 By fastening 
 
 Keel Strips X 
 (Figs. 265 and 
 266) to the bot- 
 tom of the hull, 
 and mounting 
 wheels upon ax- 
 els run through 
 screw-eyes 
 screwed into the 
 keel strips (Fig. 
 266), for 
 
 A Running- 
 Gear, your toy 
 battleship will 
 both float upon water and run upon land. Cut off the ends 
 of a pair of spools for wheels ( F, Fig. 267), and fit 34-inch 
 dowel-sticks into them for axles (Z). 
 T^__^_ mmm __ MM __ mm ____^ „ Painting. With all work 
 
 Fig. 264. — Detail Showing 
 How the Deck- Rails are 
 Fastened to Deck 
 
 X 
 
 t"t 
 
 X 
 
 
 -f'TW 
 
 ■-4 
 
 3:: 
 
 done as directed, the dread- 
 nought will be ready for its 
 coat of battleship - grey. 
 The author suggests that 
 you paint all parts before 
 assembling. It will be easier, and the parts can be allowed 
 to become thoroughly dry before they are assembled, which 
 
 Fig. 265. — Side-Elevation and Plan 
 of Keel Strips 
 
138 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 will prevent the sticking of such pivoted parts as the gun- 
 turrets and rapid-fire gun mounts. Surfaces marred while 
 Assembling can be touched up afterwards. There is not 
 much work to putting the model together, when all parts 
 have been properly fitted. In mounting the secondary- 
 
 Fig. 266 Fig. 267 
 
 Fig. 266. — Details of Keel Strips and Running-Gear 
 Fig. 267. — Detail of Spool Wheels 
 
 battery guns, slip the fourteen gun mounts into the holes 
 bored in the deck piece, then nail the deck piece to the hull, 
 and drive brad pivots down through the deck and gun 
 mounts, into the hull. Figure 255 indicates very plainly 
 where the funnels, masts and other parts go, and fastening 
 them in place is for the most part simply a job of glueing. 
 
The toy submarine described on the following pages is 
 a model recently devised by the author. A photograph of 
 this toy is shown in Fig. 268, on the page facing page 129, 
 a side elevation is shown in Fig. 269, and an end elevation 
 is shown in Fig. 270. 
 
 This toy submarine dives, then returns to the surface. 
 
 The Mechanism is best understood by referring to the 
 
 \^ 
 
 Fig. 269. — Side Elevation of Completed Toy 
 Submarine Shown in Fig. 268. (See photo- 
 graph facing Page 129) 
 
 diagrams of Figs. 269 and 270. The central section D is a 
 tin can filled with sand, for ballast. One end is supported 
 upon a brad, the other end upon the trigger E. Trigger E 
 is held by catch J, which slips into a notch cut in the edge 
 
 139 
 
i 4 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 of E. Can D is of sufficient weight when filled with sand, 
 to sink the submarine. When the submarine reaches the 
 bottom of the bath-tub — a tub furnishes a good "zone" 
 for operations — nail F in trigger E comes in contact with 
 the tub bottom with sufficient force to throw trigger E out 
 of position and release catch /. Catch J is sprung out of 
 the way by rubber-band K, trigger E is sprung out of the 
 way by rubber-band G (see dotted lines in Fig. 269), and 
 can D is released. Relieved of its ballast, the submarine 
 rises to the surface. To make the boat dive again, it is but 
 necessary to attach the tin can and reset the trigger. 
 
 Instead of having the submarine dive, discharge its weight, 
 and instantly rise to the surface, you can 
 make the trigger mechanism less delicate, 
 so that it will not be sprung by slight 
 contact. Then a gentle submersion to 
 the tub bottom will not bring about the 
 springing of the trigger, and the boat will 
 remain upon the bottom. With a stream 
 of water from a bath-spray forced against 
 the stern, the boat may be propelled for- 
 ward, and by directing the force of the 
 stream against different portions of the 
 boat you can cause the boat to go through 
 all sorts of maneuvers, even to rising fig. 270.— End Eieva- 
 nearly to the surface. Finally, by driving tion of ToySubmarine 
 the contact point forcibly against the foot of the bath tub, 
 or against an obstruction placed on the tub bottom, the 
 trigger may be sprung, and the boat, relieved of its weight, 
 will rise to the surface. 
 
A TOY SUBMARINE 
 
 141 
 
 The simplicity of the work in making this mechanical toy 
 will surprise you. Figure 271 shows a pattern for 
 
 Fig. 271. — Pattern for Hull and Upper Decks 
 
 Fig. 272. — Pattern for Deck Pieces 
 
 The Hull and Upper Decks (A), which are made in one 
 piece. Radii for describing the arcs for the bow and stern 
 of the hull are not given, because after you have located 
 the points for the beginning and end of these curves, as 
 shown, you can easily draw them free-hand. The cutting 
 can be done with a saw and chisel. Cut the ends of the 
 pocket for the tin can weight with a saw, then split out the 
 wood between the saw cuts, or kerfs, with a chisel. Taper 
 the sides of the bow as shown in Figs. 268 and 273. 
 
CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 275 
 
 Fig. 273. — Detail of Hull, Decks and 
 
 Periscopes 
 Fig. 274. — Detail of Deck Side Pieces 
 Fig. 275. — Tin Can Filled with Sand, - -,. 
 
 for Submerging Ballast Fig. 276 pjr^ 
 
 Figs. 276 and 277. — Detad of Trigger *" 
 
 and Catch 
 
 Figure 272 shows a pattern for deck pieces B. Lay these 
 out in one piece, as indicated, cut out the piece, saw it in 
 half, and nail the halves to the sides of block A in the posi- 
 tions shown (Figs. 269, 270, and 274). 
 Strips C (Fig. 269) are 
 fastened each side of 
 block A (Fig. 270), di- 
 rectly below deck pieces 
 B, to complete 
 
 Fig. 278. — Detail of Ballast-Pocket Strips 
 
A TOY SUBMARINE 
 
 143 
 
 
 Wa> 
 
 The Ballast Pocket for can D. Figure 278 shows a pattern for 
 these pocket strips. For the can ballast procure a 3^-pound 
 baking-powder can. Pack this full of sand, and if the cover 
 fits loosely, coat the edge with paint to make it stick fast. 
 Figures 276 and 279 show details of 
 
 The Trigger for Releasing the 
 Ballast. Drive the nail F, a 3- 
 inch finishing-nail, into the edge 
 of the trigger at the angle shown. 
 Figures 277 and 280 show how 
 1 \ ^L -*-^Att- 4 the trigger catch J is made. The 
 
 bow of the hull must be slotted 
 to receive the upper ends of 
 trigger E and catch /, as indi- 
 cated in Figs. 271 and 273. The 
 sides of the slot can be sawed down to the depth indicated 
 by a dotted line in Fig. 271, then the wood between the saw 
 kerfs can be split out with a chisel. Use brads for pivoting 
 the trigger and catch blocks between the sides of the slot. 
 Positions for the pivots are located in Fig. 271. 
 
 Figure 269 and Figs. 273 to 277 explain the assembling 
 and adjustment of the trigger and catch blocks, also of the 
 rubber-bands for springing them. Rubber-band G extends 
 from contact nail F to a screw / in the bow (Figs. 273 and 
 276). To keep it from interfering with rubber-band K, 
 which extends from a brad in the lower end of catch / to 
 screw / (Figs. 273 and 277), rubber-band G is run up and 
 over a pair of brads ( H) driven into block A upon opposite 
 sides, then over to screw / (Fig. 273). 
 
 Fig. 279. — Trigger 
 
 Fig. 280. — Trigger Catch 
 
144 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 When you have connected the trigger mechanism, you 
 will probably find slight readjustments necessary to bring 
 about a nicety of operation. To support the stern end of 
 the tin can, drive a brad into block A in the position indi- 
 cated in Fig. 273. The projecting rim on the can bottom 
 will rest upon the head of this brad. 
 
 This type of submarine has two 
 
 Periscopes. Two brass screw-hooks 2 inches in length 
 (L, Fig. 269) answer the purpose. Screw a round-head 
 screw (M, Figs. 269 and 273) into the bow end of the second 
 deck. 
 
 Painting. Use a battleship-grey in painting the toy 
 submarine. Remove the rubber-bands, to keep them from 
 being gobbed with paint, and sandpaper all surfaces smooth. 
 
 Submerging the Submarine Upon Lake or Pond can be 
 done successfully, if provision is made for recovering the 
 tin can ballast. Try this scheme. Connect one end of a 
 line to the tin can, and retain the other end of the line in 
 your hand. After the ballast has been released, it will be 
 easy enough to pull it out of the water by means of the line. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS 
 
 Make a fleet of toy battleships and submarines, and 
 you will be able to have all sorts of fun. With them mounted 
 on wheels, you can work out your fleet maneuvers on the 
 
 Fig. 281. — A Simple Toy Battleship 
 
 floor. In conjunction with the fort and toy cannon described 
 in the following chapter, you can stage wonderful land and 
 naval engagements that will take hours to fight out to a 
 finish. If you have never played at miniature warfare with 
 
 145 
 
7 
 
 Fig. 282. — Detail Showing How the Hull (A), Superstructure- Deck (B), 
 Masts (C), Fighting-Tops (D and E), Funnels (G), Conning-Tower 
 (H, I,) Gun Turrets (K), Main-Battery Guns (L), Secondary Battery 
 Guns ( TV), Running Gear (P, Q, R), and Aerial (5, 7\ Z7) are Assembled 
 
 146 
 
A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS 
 
 147 
 
 ships, forts, cannon, and paper and lead soldiers, you don't 
 know what exciting fun you have missed. 
 
 In building the ships for a fleet, you probably will not 
 want to make them all of the form shown in Fig. 251 of 
 Chapter X. Several of that size will do. Make the others 
 simpler, of the cruiser types shown in Figs. 281 and 293 of 
 this chapter. 
 
 Fig. 283. — Plan and Side Elevation of Hull 
 
 Figure 282 shows a detail of every part required for 
 The Battleship shown in Fig. 281, with an indication as 
 to how each part is assembled. Dimensions for the parts 
 are given in the detail working-drawings of Figs. 283 to 292. 
 If you build several ships alike, you will save time by making 
 all of the parts for one ship, first, and then using these 
 parts as patterns. Mark out and cut the hulls {A) for all the 
 other boats, then the decks (B), then the masts (C), and so 
 on. Use soft pine, cypress, or other soft wood, for the 
 models. 
 
148 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 In marking out 
 
 The Hull (.4, Fig. 282), draw a center-line upon the 
 working material, as shown in Fig. 283, and lay off the 
 measurements each side of this, to get the sides alike. 
 
 The Superstructure-Deck (B, Fig. 282) extends three- 
 quarters of the length of the hull, and it is of the same shape 
 and dimensions as that portion of the hull (Fig. 284); 
 therefore, it can be marked out with the hull as a pattern. 
 The holes shown along the edge (Fig. 284) are made to 
 receive the guns of the secondary-battery, the holes in the 
 upper face are made to receive the masts, funnels, etc. 
 
 _ 
 
 _ 6" >j 
 
 1" * r* 1"+ r+ r*l 
 
 
 9 
 
 H 
 
 Fig. 284. — Plan and Side Elevation of Superstructure-Deck 
 
 The Masts (C, Figs. 282 and 285) can be whittled out of 
 sticks, or dowel-sticks can be used. 
 
 The Fighting-Tops (D and E, Fig. 282) are button-moulds 
 of the sizes shown in Figs. 286 and 287. The larger one 
 (D) must have its hole enlarged so it will slip over the mast, 
 the smaller one (E) rests on the mast- top, and is held in 
 place by the nail F driven into the mast (Fig. 282). 
 
A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS 
 
 149 
 
 "Q 
 
 Fig. 286 
 
 Fig. 287 
 
 I I 
 
 Jfl. 
 
 Figs. 286 and'287. 
 — Fighting-Tops 
 
 -IN 
 
 Figure 288 shows a detail of 
 
 The Funnels (G). Use a dowel-stick if you can get one, 
 otherwise whittle a stick to the given diameter. 
 
 The Conning-Tower is made of 
 two square blocks (H and I, Fig. 
 282). Figure 289 shows the sizes 
 of the blocks. Nail the blocks 
 together, and peg the lower one 
 (H) to the deck with dowel-pin / 
 (Fig. 282). 
 
 The Gun Turrets (K, Fig. 282) 
 are small pieces of dowel-stick 
 (Fig. 290). 
 
 The Main-Battery Guns (L), 
 mounted in holes bored in the sides 
 of the turrets (Fig. 290), are small 
 pieces of dowel-stick cut of the 
 shape shown in Fig. 291. Drill a small hole through the 
 center of the ends of each turret, through which to drive the 
 nail pivot M (Fig. 282). 
 
 The Secondary-Battery Guns [(N, Fig. 282) are the ends 
 of burnt matches. Figure 292 shows the length to cut them. 
 
 f6 7 
 
 (6 
 
 JL 
 
 Fig. 285.— 
 Mast 
 
 TXFig. 288 
 
 V 
 
 CM 
 
 1 
 
 C\! 
 
 H 
 
 Fig. 289 
 
 F 
 
 4« 
 
 Fig. 288. 
 Fig. 289. 
 
 kf« 
 
 US 
 
 8 
 
 Funnel 
 
 Details of Conning Tower 
 
 This toy model is 
 mounted upon 
 wheels so that it 
 can be run upon 
 the floor, as well as 
 floated upon water. 
 Use 
 
i 5 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 JUL. Fro. ^^VK Fig. Spool Wheels (P, Fig. 
 
 &====? 291 l^^^J 290 282 ) , cut tne stick axles 
 
 ■ (? to fit snugly in the 
 
 i N s= |k. I -" q spool holes, and support 
 
 k-^'V ^iS; '^3'L the axle ends with screw- 
 
 4- 292 ^4 
 
 eyes R, screwing these 
 
 Fig. 290. — ■ Turret and Guns . . 
 
 Figs. 291 and 292. — Guns into the hull. 
 
 The Wireless Aerial is suspended between the mast- tops 
 (Fig. 282). Use toothpicks for spreaders S and thread 
 for wire strands T and end loops U. 
 
 The Cruiser shown in Fig. 293 is propelled by a paddle- 
 wheel operated by a twisted rubber-band. The rubber- 
 band untwists rapidly, so that the boat does not travel far 
 before a re-twisting is necessary, but boys who have made 
 this model have been satisfied with the results, so the author 
 believes that you will be satisfied, also. 
 
 Figure 294 shows a plan of the completed ship. The 
 method of construction is quite similar to that of the battle- 
 ship just described, so read over the instructions for making 
 that model before beginning work on this one. 
 
 The Hull (A) is shown in plan in Fig. 295. After marking 
 this out and cutting it, in the same way as described for 
 the other model, prepare the blocks which form 
 
 The Superstructure-Deck (B and C, Figs. 296 and 297). 
 Cut block B out of material %-inch thick, by the width and 
 length given. Bore the turret openings along the sides 
 before cutting out the block, to prevent splitting it. Make 
 these openings 1 inch in diameter. You will find the 
 location of their centers shown upon the diagram. Holes E 
 
Fig. 293. — Toy Battleship with Propeller 
 
 Fig. 294. — Plan of Completed Toy Battleship 
 
 T TT 
 
 7!? '-** 
 
 1w« 
 
 l: 
 
 I 
 
 -L.\ 
 
 7 — 
 
 Fig. 295. — Plan of Hull 
 151 
 
152 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 are for the funnel ends to fit in. Make them Y% inch in diam- 
 eter. Holes F are for the mast ends to fit in. Bore them 
 
 inch in diameter. 
 
 L 
 
 % <h c ty * 
 
 Fig. 
 297 
 
 Fig. 
 296 
 
 in the positions indicated making them 
 
 Cut block C of the 
 same width and length 
 as block B, out of mate- 
 rial \i inch thick. Bore 
 holes E and F through 
 it in the same places as 
 those bored through 
 
 H |'l^-i r-4 — 2$ M £-+£i 
 
 block 5, SO that When FlGs . 296 and 297. -Plans of Superstructure- 
 
 the two blocks are placed Deck Blocks 
 
 together, the holes will come over one another (Fig. 298). 
 
 The eight revolving 
 
 Gun Turrets (D, Fig. 294) can be sawed from a broom 
 handle or portiere-pole. Figure 299 shows the size to cut 
 them. The hole in the side is made to receive a gun. The 
 turrets "fore and aft" have two holes each, for two guns. 
 Another small hole must be drilled through the center of 
 the ends of the turrets, as a provision for pivoting the turrets 
 so that they will revolve. 
 
 Figure 298 shows the size to cut 
 
 The Main-Battery Guns. If you want to save work, do 
 not taper the sides of the guns as shown. The tapering, 
 however, adds much to their appearance. 
 
 The Secondary-Battery Guns. Set five of these in holes 
 bored along each side of the hull, and three in holes in each 
 side edge of deck piece C. (Fig. 293). You can cut these 
 like the main battery guns. 
 
A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS 
 
 153 
 
 The Funnels (E, Fig. 298) are shown in detail in Fig. 300. 
 They drive down through the holes bored in blocks B and 
 C of the deck. 
 
 The Masts (F) 
 are \i inch in diam- 
 eter and 6 inches 
 long. Slip spools G 
 upon them to come 
 at the foot, and half- 
 way between the 
 spools and the mast- 
 tops fasten the spool 
 ends H for 
 
 Fighting- Tops. 
 You will find it easy 
 to cut off the ends 
 of a spool if you will 
 slip a stick through 
 the spool, to hold the 
 spool by while saw- 
 ing. 
 
 The first step in 
 
 Assembling the 
 model consists in 
 nailing block B to 
 hull A in the posi- 
 tion indicated by Fig. 298. — Detail Showing How Superstructure- 
 dotted lines in Fig Deck ( Ban d Q, Gun Turrets (D), Funnels 
 r-,, (E), Masts (F), and Fighting-Tops (if) are 
 295. Then mount Assembled 
 
154 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the gun- turrets, six to turn in the openings in the sides of 
 block B, the remaining two "fore and aft" \i inch from 
 the ends of block B. 
 
 8 ± 
 
 P<l? 
 
 E, 
 
 LiX 
 
 Fig. 299 
 
 Fig. 300 
 
 Fig. 299 - 
 Fig. 300. 
 
 Detail of Gun Turret 
 — Detail of Funnel 
 
 LUW.I 
 
 
 Having mounted 
 the turrets, nail 
 deck block C to 
 block B. 
 
 The Paddle - 
 Wheel (Fig. 301) is 
 made of two pieces 
 (/and/, Fig. 302), 
 halved together — 
 that is, each piece 
 has a slot cut across 
 half its depth, so 
 that the two will 
 interlock as shown 
 in Fig. 301. Cut 
 the pieces out of 
 wood y% inch thick. 
 Drive a double- 
 pointed tack into 
 the center of each 
 
 end of the assembled paddle-wheel, and connect a rubber- 
 band to each tack. Then take a pair of screw-eyes, open each 
 eye enough to form a hook (K, Fig. 303), screw the pair 
 into the corners of the stern of the hull, at the angle shown 
 in Figs. 293 and 294, and slip the ends of the rubber-bands 
 over them. By setting the screw-eyes at the angle indi- 
 
 Fig. 301 Fig. 303 Fig. 302 
 
 Figs. 301-303. — Details of Propeller 
 
A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS 
 
 155 
 
 cated, there is greater length of rubber-band to twist in 
 winding the motor. This is important. 
 
 If you make this cruiser model for your indoor battleship 
 fleet, you had better mount it upon wheels in the same 
 manner as the model shown in Fig. 281 is mounted. 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 
 TOY ARTILLERY AND 
 MINIATURE WARFARE 
 
 Miniature battles fought with toy soldiers and toy 
 artillery can be made as scientific as those of real war, if 
 one understands military tactics. Without that knowledge, 
 however, you can make up your own rules of warfare, and 
 the author believes that no more interesting game for an 
 evening, or for a whole day, in fact, could be found. That 
 more boys do not play with toy soldiers is probably because 
 they haven't sufficient properties for staging a battle. A 
 handful of soldiers and "dummy" cannon will not answer 
 the purpose. There must be men and equipment enough 
 for two opposing armies, and the guns must be of a type 
 that shoot play shells, else they will afford little excitement. 
 
 When visiting several large toy shops recently, the author 
 was impressed with the completeness of equipment for 
 miniature warfare, yet realized how impractical it was to 
 expect that the average boy with limited pocket-money 
 might buy enough of the equipment for a battle-field 
 setting. Then he remembered as a lad how easily he had 
 made guns, forts, etc., for miniature battles, and he decided 
 to show you how you can do the same. Accordingly, when 
 he went home he summoned his own lead soldiers, who had 
 last seen service some twenty-five years ago, and to a man 
 
 156 
 
\ 
 
 
 
TOY ARTILLERY AND MINIATURE WARFARE 157 
 
 they responded (including three men decapitated by shell 
 fire in one of the engagements of the early nineties). A 
 "munition factory" was then organized, miniature fortifica- 
 tions built, and a battlefield prepared with men and artillery 
 in battle formation, as pictured in the photograph of Fig. 304. 
 If you do not own any lead soldiers, you will find a good 
 type of soldiers in the stores right now that sell at 50 cents 
 a dozen. Paper soldiers can be purchased for 2 cents a 
 dozen. Lead soldiers look best, of course, but paper soldiers 
 serve excellently. The author never owned more than a 
 small company of /y 
 
 lead soldiers, and // 
 
 therefore depended 
 
 upon paper soldiers / / 
 
 for the main fighting /*'*-/ 
 
 strength of his / / 
 
 armies. 
 
 Next to toy sol- 
 diers in importance 
 are guns,and in Figs. 
 305 and 306 you will 
 
 find two excellent Fig. 307. - Detail of Field ArtUIery Gun 
 
 models that are not hard to make. Shaping the guns is a 
 simple problem in boring and whittling. 
 
 A working detail of 
 
 The Field Artillery Gun is shown in Fig. 307. The gun 
 tube is made in two pieces, as is shown in the longitudinal 
 section of Fig. 308 (A and B). Use straight-grained soft 
 
158 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 pine, free from knots and other defects for the tube pieces. 
 First cut a pair of blocks to the dimensions of A and B 
 (Figs. 309 and 310). Then with a ^-inch bit bore a hole 
 
 B 
 
 X 
 
 Fig. 308 
 
 Fig 314 D^/77^ : r jrrr.. !i jw**~-"s i- w - — — "#« 
 
 *5-£, — a 
 
 r, 0,0 Fig. 315 
 Fig. 313 
 
 Fig. 308. — ■ Longitudinal Section of Gun Shown in Fig. 307 
 Figs. 309 and 310. — Wooden Blocks Required for Tube of Gun 
 Figs. 311 and 312. — How the Blocks are Bored and Shaped 
 Figs. 313 and 314. — Details of Plunger 
 Fig. 315. — Detail of ^-inch Shell 
 
 through the entire length of block A, at its center. A hole 
 must be bored through block B from end to end, also, but 
 three diameters must be used for this hole, as is indicated 
 by dotted lines in Fig. 310. To make this hole, first bore 
 
TOY ARTILLERY AND MINIATURE WARFARE 159 
 
 a hole z /i inch deep with a %-inch bit, then with a ^-inch 
 bit and the same center, continue the hole for a distance of 
 3 inches, and from that point bore the hole through the 
 remaining ^-inch length of the block with a 34-mch bit. 
 In order to produce a bore that is straight, it is necessary 
 to bore the holes exactly in a straight line. 
 
 With the blocks bored, put a keen edge upon your jack- 
 knife blade, preparatory to 
 
 Shaping the Outside of the Gun. Figures 311 and 312 
 show the diameters to which the blocks should be cut. 
 Shape down the small end of each block first, then work 
 back to the other end. At the muzzle end of the block A, 
 make the wood around the bore as thin as you can cut it 
 without cutting through, and from that point taper the 
 wood up to the other end. Round off the breech end of 
 block B, and^taper off the other end, as shown. 
 
 After cutting, sandpaper the surfaces of both pieces of 
 the tube until absolutely smooth, and see that the end of 
 piece A fits snugly into the hole in the end of B; these 
 sections are to be glued together later. 
 
 The Plunger (C, Fig. 308) may be either a piece of a 
 dowel-stick, or a stick whittled round, of the size shown in 
 Fig. 313. Drill a small hole through the plunger stick 1 3^2 
 inches from one end, slip a piece of spring-brass wire through 
 the hole, and wind the wire loosely around the stick to about 
 the point shown, to form a spiral spring. Slip the end of 
 the plunger into section B of the gun, and out through the 
 hole in the breech. Saw off the end of a spool (D, Fig. 314), 
 glue it upon the end of the plunger (Fig. 308), and drive a 
 
160 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 small brad through the spool end into the plunger end, to 
 reinforce the connection. 
 
 Test the Gun to see that the spring rebounds properly- 
 after its compression, before you glue sections A and B 
 together. Figure 315 shows a detail of the 
 
 Three -Eighths Inch Shells. These can be sawed up 
 quickly, to the given length, if you will cut them from a 
 ^Hs-inch dowel-stick. Taper one end of each shell to a 
 point, as shown, and sandpaper smooth. To make the 
 shells discharge from the gun with a minimum amount of 
 friction, wax them and wax the bore of the gun. 
 
 If you find that the spring does not recoil satisfactorily, 
 try a smaller or larger gauge of brass wire. Provided you 
 use spring-brass wire, you should have no trouble with the 
 coil. Space the turns of the coil about as shown in Fig. 313. 
 With the spring properly adjusted, glue together the two 
 sections of the gun tube, and the gun will be ready for 
 mounting on 
 
 The Gun-Carriage. Figure 316 shows a rear elevation 
 of the mounted gun, and Fig. 317 shows a detail of the 
 carriage framework. The pair of carriages F may be 
 prepared in one piece, cut out of a piece of wood 5 A inch 
 thick, then sawed in half. Figure 318 shows a dimensioned 
 pattern for marking out the piece. The 3^-inch hole is for 
 the wheel axle; the H-inch hole is for the trunnion screws 
 on which the gun is to be mounted. Separator block G 
 (Fig. 317) braces the trail of the carriage. Make it of the 
 size shown in Fig. 319. Before fastening carriages F to G, 
 
Fig. 323 
 
 F 
 
 Fig. 317 
 
 Fig. 316.— Rear Elevation of Mounted Gun Fig. 320. —Wheels 
 £ IG ' o!o ~? etai1 of Gun Carri age Fig. 321. — Spool Wheel Hub 
 
 £IG. dlS.— Pattern for Carriages Fig. 322. — Wheel Axle 
 
 1<ig. 319.— Carriage Separator Block Fig. 323. — Bed Block for Gun 
 
 161 
 
162 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 cut wheel axle K (Fig. 322), and slip it into the holes bored 
 for it, to keep the holes opposite one another while you nail 
 the pieces together. 
 
 The Gun-Carriage Wheels (I) may be prepared in one 
 piece, then sawed in half. Figure 320 shows the pattern. 
 The best way to cut a wheel is to saw out the pieces roughly, 
 first, then trim up to the finish line with a sharp chisel, and 
 sandpaper the edge smooth. The wheel hubs are spool 
 ends (J, Fig. 321). Fasten them to the wheels with glue. 
 Drive brads through the axle ends for pins to keep the 
 wheels from coming off. 
 
 Mounting the Gun, Because of the thinness of the tube 
 of the gun, the screw trunnions cannot be driven into it. 
 The gun must be mounted upon a bed block (E, Figs. 316 
 and 323), and the trunnions screwed into the block's sides. 
 The upper side of block E must be curved the same as the 
 surface of the gun. To get the right curve, bore a i-inch 
 hole through a block, then cut this block through at the 
 center of the hole, and trim it up to the dimensions shown 
 in the diagram of Fig. 323. Glue the gun to the bed block, 
 and when the glue has set drive a small screw through each 
 carriage into it. 
 
 The Elevating Device of this home-made gun is simple. 
 Drive four brads into the top edge of each carriage (Fig. 
 317), and cut the cross-bar H to slip between the brads. 
 The bar can be adjusted to four positions. 
 
 The Siege Gun shown in Fig. 306 is made in much the 
 same way as the field artillery gun just described. In the 
 detail of the completed gun (Fig. 324), the dotted lines 
 
1 
 
 TOY ARTILLERY AND MINIATURE WARFARE 163 
 
 indicate two of the positions to which the gun can be 
 elevated. The carriage is pivoted like a turntable to 
 provide for shifting the position laterally. 
 
 Figure 325 shows *■> 
 
 a longitudinal sec- 
 tion of the gun. The 
 tube is made of two 
 pieces {A and B), 
 and Figs. 326 and 
 327 show the dimen- 
 sions of the blocks 
 out of which to cut 
 them. Bore a 5 A- 
 inch hole through 
 the center of block FlG * 324 - ~ DetaI1 of Siege ArtilIer y Gun 
 A, from end to end, and a hole of the same size through 
 all but 34 inch of the length of block B; then with a 34-inch 
 bit bore a hole through the remaining 34~i ncn of the length 
 of block B (Fig. 327). Care must be taken to bore the 
 holes absolutely straight, else the bore of the gun will not 
 be straight, and the toy shells will lose momentum before 
 leaving the muzzle of the gun. 
 
 The first step in 
 
 Shaping the Gun is similar to that of shaping the field 
 artillery gun. Whittle off the edges of blocks A and B 
 as shown in Figs. 328 and 329. The sides of block B must 
 be kept straight; the sides of block A must taper to a smaller 
 diameter at the muzzle end. Figures 330 and 331 give 
 the diameters for the finished ends. In trimming up block 
 
i6 4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 A, cut the flange at the muzzle end to the same diameter 
 as the opposite end (i-inch), then taper the wood from the 
 opposite end towards the flange, making the thickness over 
 the bore directly back of the flange, not much more than 
 the thickness of paper. Round block B at both ends, as 
 shown in Fig. 331. The pieces will then be ready for sand- 
 papering. 
 
 Pieces A and B are connected by the tube C, a spool 
 (Fig. 332) with its flanges cut off, and its sides whittled to 
 fit snugly in the bores of A and B (Figs. 325 and 332). 
 Before joining the gun-tube sections, however, 
 
 The Plunger for projecting the toy shells (D, Fig. 325) 
 must be prepared, and be fastened in place in the breech 
 end of the bore. Drill a hole through rod Dij^ inches from 
 one end, stick the end of a piece of spring-brass wire through 
 the hole (Fig. 333), and wrap several turns of the wire about 
 the rod to form a spiral spring (Fig. 334). With the spring 
 prepared, stick the rod through the breech opening, and 
 fasten a spool-end upon it with glue and a brad (E, Figs. 
 325 and 335). 
 
 When you have tried out the gun and found it to fire 
 satisfactorily with 
 
 One-half Inch Shells (Fig. 336), cut out of dowel-sticks 
 in the way that the shells for the other gun were made, glue 
 together parts A, B, and C. 
 
 The Gun Carriage is shown in detail in Fig. 337. Cut 
 carriages A in one piece, out of %-inch stuff (Fig. 338), 
 then saw in hah for the pair. Drill a hole where indicated, 
 through which to run the trunnions on which the cannon is 
 
Fig. 331 
 
 Fig. 332 Fig.333 
 
 Fig. 325. — Longitudinal Section of Gun Shown in Fig. 324 
 Figs. 326 and 327. — Wooden Blocks Required for Tube of Gun 
 Figs. 328 and 329. — How the Blocks are Bored and Shaped 
 Figs. 330 and 331. — Tube Blocks Completed 
 Fig. 332. — Spool Connector 
 
 Figs. 333-335. — Details of Plunger Fig. 336. — Half-inch Shell 
 
 165 
 
i66 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 to be mounted. Cut base block B to the dimensions given 
 in Fig. 339, nail the carriages to its sides, and drive lever C 
 into a hole bored in one end. Cut turntable base D of the 
 size shown in Fig. 340, bore a screw-hole through its center 
 and drive a screw through the hole into base B of the gun 
 carriage. The trunnion screws on which the gun is mounted, 
 can be screwed through the holes in carriages A directly 
 
 Fig. 
 338 
 
 -2-q sMq— * — lg- 
 
 L, 2-H 
 C 
 
 Fig. 339 
 Fig. 337. — Detail of Gun-Carriage 
 
 H 
 
 Fig. 340 
 Fig. 339. — Carriage Base 
 
 Fig. 338. — Pattern for Carriages Fig. 340. — Turntable Base 
 
 into tube B of the gun, because the thickness of the wood 
 around the bore is yi inch. Do not drive the screws deeper 
 than one-half of this thickness. 
 
 The Elevating Device is the same as that provided for 
 the other gun (Fig. 337). 
 
TOY ARTILLERY AND MINIATURE WARFARE 167 
 
 You can leave your guns without 
 
 Painting, but a coat of black or grey paint will much 
 improve their appearance. Do not attempt to paint the 
 inside of the bores; in fact, be careful not to let any paint 
 run into them, for this would gum them up, and possibly 
 spoil the action of the plunger. 
 
 Figure 341 shows 
 
 A Fortification made out of a piece of 2 by 4. Figure 342 
 shows how to mark out the embrasures, or openings for guns. 
 
 Fig. 341. — Fortification 
 
 Cut down the sides of the embrasures with a saw, and split 
 out the wood between the saw kerfs with a chisel. 
 
 Pieces cut from a 3^-inch dowel-stick, 2^ inches long, 
 with a hole started in one end of each (Fig. 343), will answer 
 admirably for play 
 
 Disappearing Guns. Drive a tack into the breech end 
 I of each gun, and another into the fortification, beneath each 
 embrasure, then connect the tacks with pieces of string 
 (Fig. 341). The purpose of the strings is merely to keep 
 the guns from becoming separated from the fort, and getting 
 lost. 
 
168 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 A Flagstaff is mounted in the center embrasure of the 
 fortification, instead of a gun (Fig. 341). Stick a small 
 flag in a block of wood, set the block in the embrasure, and 
 connect a string to tacks driven into the block and into 
 the fortification. As the flag is to be fired upon, don't use 
 an American flag. That would be an act of disloyalty. 
 
 7T7 
 
 TT 
 
 ra 
 
 y4£Mhhjhhk^iWhU#ih£iti*-3£\ 
 
 ■-v 
 
 '4- 
 
 Z" 
 
 Fig. 343 '€&^ Fig. 344 
 
 Fig. 342. — Pattern for Fortification 
 Fig. 343. — Detail of Gun Fig. 344. — Flagstaff 
 
 You can make a small flag by fastening a piece of cardboard 
 to the end of a stick, as shown in Fig. 344. 
 
 Suggestions for 
 
 Laying Out the Battlefield will be obtained from the 
 photograph of Fig. 304. Books piled up along a wall of a 
 room, and covered with a rug, will give elevation and 
 perspective to the background. Notice that the borders of 
 the rug used in the battle scene shown in Fig. 304 make 
 roads. Hang a sheet from tacks driven into the picture- 
 moulding, for a sky background. Build small houses, 
 churches, and other buildings out of cardboard. Use 
 
TOY ARTILLERY AND MINATURE WARFARE 169 
 
 evergreen twigs for trees. Make tents out of small pieces 
 of cardboard folded V-shape. The author wishes that he 
 might show some of the other battle scenes he has modeled, 
 with hills, valleys, streams, bridges, etc., but space does 
 not permit it. 
 
 There are many ways of waging miniature wars. You 
 can make and develop your own rules for righting, and for 
 determining the victors. Mr. H. G. Wells, the English 
 author, literary critic, and war correspondent, wrote an 
 interesting volume several years ago, entitled "Little Wars ," 
 which, if you can procure at your local public library, will 
 give you many valuable suggestions for operating on both 
 a large and a small scale. Mr. Wells has spent several days 
 at a stretch, with friends, in working out miniature war 
 manuevers, and you will find his descriptions of battles 
 won and lost, intensely interesting. The author's miniature 
 battles, participated in by his brother, and his chum Captain 
 David Ross Fraser, U. S. A., will always be remembered by 
 each as among the most thrilling of their boyhood pastimes. 
 Battles were fought out to a finish, until every gun on one 
 side had been silenced, every man slain. 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 SAND-MOTOR TOYS 
 
 You can do more with a sand-motor than operate the 
 paddle-wheel. It is about as powerful as a small electric- 
 motor, and there are many pieces of toy machinery and 
 other devices which can be rigged up and operated by it. 
 
 In the photograph of Fig. 345 you will see 
 
 A Practical Sand-Motor rigged up to run a toy trip- 
 hammer and a toy grind-stone. When you have learned 
 the way to connect up these toys, you will have no difficulty 
 in devising other pieces of toy machinery; in fact, you can 
 equip a miniature machine-shop. 
 
 Figure 347 shows a longitudinal section of the completed 
 toy. You can make the base any size that you want. 
 That for the model illustrated (A), is 6 inches wide and 
 22 inches long. 
 
 The Sand-Hopper (B) is an 8-inch tin funnel, costing 
 5 cents. Cut the hopper supports (C, Fig. 348), 20 inches 
 long, bevel the top of each as shown in Fig. 349, to fit the 
 sides of the funnel, tack the funnel to the beveled surfaces, 
 and nail the lower ends of the uprights to the base. 
 
 Figure 347 shows a cross-section of 
 
 The Paddle-Wheel. Figures 350 to 353 show details of 
 
 the wheel's construction. The wheel hub (D f Fig. 353) 
 
 170 
 
Fig. 345. — Toy Machinery can be Operated by the Sand-Motor. 
 
SAND-MOTOR TOYS 
 
 171 
 
 is a spool, the wheel ends (E) and the paddles (F) are of 
 cardboard. Cut the wheel end pieces of the size shown 
 in Fig. 351, the paddles of the size shown in Fig. 352. To 
 assemble the wheel, tack one end piece to the spool hub at 
 its exact center, and fasten the paddles to that end by means 
 
 °T% 
 
 Fig. 347. — Longitudinal Section through Sand-Motor Toy 
 
 of pins run through it into the edges of the paddles. Rule 
 lines across the end piece so as to divide it into eight equal 
 parts; then you will have no difficulty in spacing the paddles 
 equidistantly. When the paddles have been fastened to 
 one end piece, tack the other piece to the hub, and fasten 
 it likewise to the paddle edges with pins. 
 
 For Shafting, use carpenter dowel-sticks }£ ' mc ^ i* 1 
 diameter. 
 
 For Pulley-Wheels use spools. Fasten a spool pulley to 
 each side of the paddle-wheel, slip a piece of dowel-stick 
 through the spool holes, for a shaft, and support the shaft 
 
172 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 ends in screw-eyes driven into a pair of uprights (H, Fig. 
 350) fastened next to the sand-hopper supports (Fig. 347). 
 Drive brass upholstering- 
 tacks into the shaft ends 
 to prevent them from 
 pulling through the screw- 
 eyes. 
 
 The Position of the 
 Paddle-Wheel must be as 
 shown in Fig. 347, so the 
 falling sand will strike 
 upon the ends of the 
 paddles. A tomato can 
 (/, Fig. 347) catches the 
 sand after it passes over 
 the paddles of the wheel. 
 It is best to have a pair 
 of these cans, so that as 
 soon as one fills it may be 
 removed, and the second 
 can quickly be slipped into 
 its place. The filled can 
 may then be emptied back 
 into the sand-hopper. 
 
 The paddle-wheel will throw forward part of the sand; 
 therefore, to catch this sand, it is a good plan to make a 
 cardboard chute similar to K (Fig. 347), and fasten its 
 turned up edges to the hopper supports, and suspend its 
 outer end by means of string run from it to the edge of the 
 
 Fig. 348 
 
 Fig. 348. — Cross-Section Looking toward 
 
 Sand- Hopper and Paddle- Wheel 
 Fig. 349. — Detail of Hopper Support 
 
 
 91 
 
SAND-MOTOR TOYS 
 
 173 
 
 hopper. In the photograph (Fig. 345), the chute was 
 removed so as not to obstruct the view of the paddle-wheel. 
 A small proportion of sand will spill even with the chute in 
 position. To keep this from running off the base onto the 
 floor, it is a good plan to make a ledge by nailing the strips 
 L (Fig. 347) to the base edges. An opening at one corner 
 (Fig. 345) will provide an outlet through which to pour out 
 the spilt sand occasionally. 
 
 Sand for Motor. If you can get beach sand for the 
 hopper, get it. If you cannot, take coarser sand (builder's 
 
 Fig. 350 
 
 Fig. 351 
 
 Fig. 352 
 
 Fig. 353 
 
 Fig. 350. — Sand- Motor Wheel Fig. 351. — End Piece of Wheel 
 Fig.352. — Paddle Fig.353. — How End, Paddle and Spool Hub are Assembled 
 
 torpedo sand, or any kind you can get) and screen out the 
 finer particles through a piece of screen wire. Sand too 
 coarse to go through screen-wire will clog the hopper outlet. 
 If the sand is damp, it must be dried out to prevent caking. 
 The Toy Trip -Hammer. Uprights M at the end of the 
 base opposite to that on which the sand-motor is mounted 
 
174 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 (Figs. 347 and 354), support shafting and pulleys operated 
 by belts from the paddle-wheel. One of the shafts operates 
 
 Fig. 355 
 
 Fig. 354 
 
 Fig. 356 
 
 Fig. 354. — ■ Cross-Section Looking Toward Framework Supporting Toy 
 
 Trip-Hammer 
 Figs. 355 and 356. — Details of Spool Pulleys, and Trip-Hammer 
 
 the trip-hammer. The trip-hammer consists of a piece of 
 pencil or dowel-stick (N, Figs. 347, 354 and 356), which 
 slides up and down through a pair of screw-eyes screwed 
 
SAND-MOTOR TOYS 
 
 i7S 
 
 into one of the uprights M. A screw-eye in the top of the 
 trip-hammer stick provides a point of attachment for the 
 hoisting-cable; a round-headed tack in the lower end forms 
 the hammer head, and a second round-headed tack driven 
 into the base serves as an anvil. 
 
 The hoisting-cable attached to the top of rod N must run 
 up to and be tied around a beam (0) fastened across the 
 tops of supports M (Fig. 354). This cable must be tripped 
 by means of a tripper finger (P), a piece of tin folded in half 
 and inserted in a slot cut in the side of a spool (Q, Fig. 355). 
 Fasten this spool and another spool (R) upon a shaft (S), 
 and mount this shaft upon screw-eye bearings screwed into 
 
 Fig. 357 Fig. 358 
 
 Figs. 357 and 358. — Details of Toy Grindstone, Belt and Pulley 
 
 the outer face of uprights M in the positions shown. Once 
 during every revolution of the shaft, tripper ringer P will 
 strike the hoisting-cable and raise the hammer as shown 
 in Fig. 347, releasing it in passing, and letting the hammer 
 drop upon the anvil. Run a string belt from spool pulley 
 R over to one of the spool pulleys G on the paddle-wheel 
 (Fig. 348). 
 
176 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 The Toy Grindstone. Spool pulley T on the lower shaft 
 V (Fig. 354) is belted to the second spool pulley G on the 
 paddle-wheel, and spool-pulley U on shaft V is belted to 
 
 Fig. 359. — Detail of Standard for Teeter Toy Shown in Fig. 346 
 Fig. 360. — Detail of Sand-Hopper Fig. 361. — Detail of Teeter 
 
 a toy grind-stone built as shown in Figs. 357 and 358, with 
 a base block W, uprights X, stone Y, and spool pulley Z. 
 Mount the wheels in the same way that the other wheels 
 are mounted. 
 
SAND-MOTOR TOYS 
 
 177 
 
 The Teeter Toy. This sand toy, shown in Fig. 346, 
 is built with a sand-motor of its own. 
 
 The Standard supporting the teeter is shown in detail 
 in Fig. 359. Cut uprights A of the size shown in Fig. 362, 
 base B of the size shown in Fig. 363. Fasten the uprights 
 to the base 3 inches apart. 
 
 ;t Fig. 
 ~<& 366 
 
 Fig. 
 363 
 
 H-4--H 
 
 k 8- 
 
 fig. r 
 
 365 t 
 
 --a- 
 
 -16"- 
 
 Fig. 362. — Pattern of Standard Upright Fig. 363. — Pattern of Base 
 Fig. 364. — Pattern of Hopper Sides Fig. 365. — Pattern of Teeter 
 
 Fig. 366. — Pattern of Teeter Sand- Pocket 
 
 The Hopper is made of four pieces (D and E, Fig. 360). 
 Cut a square piece of 3^-inch board of the size shown in 
 Fig. 364, and saw it in half from corner to corner, for side 
 pieces D\ cut end pieces E 2 inches wide by the length of 
 the short edges of the side pieces. Lap the end pieces, and 
 nail together, then nail sides D to their side edges. Bore a 
 hole through the center of the hopper bottom (Fig. 360) for 
 a sand outlet, then fasten the hopper between supports A, 
 so the bottom is 3 inches below the top of the supports. 
 
i 7 8 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 The Teeter must be light in weight, and must be delicately 
 balanced, so it will respond quickly to the overbalancing 
 action of sand dropping 
 into the pockets at the 
 center. In making his 
 first model, the author 
 used a thin stick for the 
 teeter plank, but found 
 that it was too heavy. 
 In the model shown in 
 Fig. 346, a strip of card- 
 board folded in three was 
 used (F, Fig. 361), and 
 the weight of this is just 
 right. Cut the strip of 
 cardboard of the size 
 shown in Fig. 365, score it 
 from end to end, % inch 
 from each edge, as indi- 
 cated by dotted lines in 
 the pattern, and bend over 
 the edges. By bending 
 the strip in this way, it 
 will be stiffened sufficient- 
 ly to carry the weight of 
 the sand dropping upon it FlG> 367 _ Boy for Teeter 
 
 at the Center, and the Fig. 368. — Pattern of Boy's Body 
 
 weight of the cardboard l 1G - »?■ ~ P attern ° f f *??'* Jf£ 
 
 ° Fig. 370. — Pattern of Girl's Body 
 
 dolls On the ends. The Fig. 371. — Pattern of Girl's Leg 
 
SAND-MOTOR TOYS 179 
 
 center sand-pockets are formed with the piece of cardboard 
 G (Fig. 361), cut of the shape and size shown in Fig. 366, 
 and the separator block H, which is \i inch thick, 1 inch 
 wide, and 2 y 2 inches long. Tack the folded piece of card- 
 board G to the sides of block H, and glue the teeter-board 
 strip F, at its center, to the under side of the pockets. 
 
 The teeter must be fas- 
 tened between the supports 
 so there will be y 2 inch space 
 between the top of block H 
 and the outlet in the hopper, 
 and so the outlet will be 
 
 exactly Over the Center of Fig. 372. - Tin Can Sand Scoop 
 
 the top of block H. Use nails for pivots, and drill holes 
 through uprights A a trifle larger than the nails, so the nails 
 will turn easily Use halves of spools for washers (I, Fig. 
 361), to fill the space between the sides of the sand-pockets 
 and the uprights. 
 
 Strips C (Fig. 359) are nailed to the side edges of uprights 
 A to act as bumpers. Their purpose is to prevent the teeter 
 from tilting too far. In the model shown in the photograph, 
 the strips are placed 1% inches below the level of the nail 
 pivots. Adjust the strips on your model so as to have the 
 teeter tilt to whatever angle you want it to go. 
 
 How the Teeter Toy Works. When the sand-hopper is 
 filled with sand free from pebbles and dirt that would clog 
 the outlet, the teeter is set in motion. The sand pours into 
 whichever sand pocket is tilted uppermost, until the weight 
 is sufficient to cause an overbalance, then the end of the 
 
180 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 teeter board on that side of the center drops until the 
 bumper C is struck. As soon as the teeter tilts in this 
 direction, the sand empties out of the pocket, and the sand 
 from the hopper pours into the other pocket, now upper- 
 most, until the weight again overbalances, and the teeter 
 inclines in the other direction. Once begun, the teetering 
 movement continues as long as sand remains in the hopper. 
 
 The teeter toy requires a couple of 
 
 Doll Teeterers. In Fig. 367 you will see how to make a 
 boy doll. The pattern of the body in Fig. 368, and pattern 
 of the legs in Fig. 369, are shown full-size. Make a tracing 
 of each pattern, and transfer the tracing upon light-weight 
 cardboard or heavy note-paper. Glue the legs to the sides 
 of the body as shown in Fig. 367. Figure 370 shows a 
 pattern for the body of the girl doll, and Fig. 371a pattern 
 for the legs. Glue only the tip ends of the legs to the body. 
 Slot each end of the teeter, slip the end of the doll body into 
 the slot, and bend out the legs to straddle the teeter, as 
 shown in Fig. 346. 
 
 A Sand Scoop for throwing used sand back into the 
 hopper, can be made by cutting away part of the side of a 
 tin can, and nailing the can bottom to the end of a stick 
 handle, as the scoop shown in Fig. 372 is made. 
 
CHAPTER XV 
 
 A TOY DERRICK-CRANE WITH 
 CLOCKWORK MOTOR 
 
 All boys are interested in making things that "run," 
 yet, surprisingly, few who have not had the possibilities 
 demonstrated to them through the author's handicraft 
 books and articles, think of utilizing clockwork for motive 
 power. Those of you readers who have built the models 
 described in The Boy Craftsman, Handicraft for Handy 
 Boys, and Home-Made Toys for Girls and Boys, know 
 that clockwork toys are among the best of home-made 
 mechanical toys. You will not need to be told that the 
 derrick-crane illustrated in Figs. 373 and 374 is well worth 
 the time and effort required to make it. 
 
 One of the good points about using 
 
 Clockwork for Toy Motors is that any boy can obtain a 
 set. The lifetime of the common form of alarm-clock is 
 short enough to make discarded clocks plentiful, and all 
 that a boy has to do, in case there isn't a worn-out clock at 
 home, is to make inquiry of a friend or relative. Almost 
 every one would be glad to have turned to account the 
 clock that has become useless to him. 
 
 Figure 375 shows a clockwork converted into a motor 
 for the toy derrick-crane. Besides removing the clock 
 
 hands, it is necessary to remove the balance-wheel (A, Fig. 
 
 181 
 
182 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 376) and the little lever (B) pivoted next to it. This is done 
 to increase the speed of the clockwork. The wheel and 
 pivot can be flipped out of their positions after the nuts 
 which hold the frame together have been loosed. 
 
 ^TOMAST 
 jf PULLEY 
 
 K-r 1 -*! 
 
 z 
 
 Vro -BOOM 
 PULLEY 
 
 Fig. 377 
 
 Fig. 376 
 
 Fig. 375. — Detail of Clockwork Motor. Rubber-Band Belts, Spool Pulleys 
 
 and Drums 
 Fig. 376. — Balance-Wheel and Lever to be Removed from Clockwork 
 Fig. 377. — Detail of Drum Frame Upright 
 
 The Pulley Wheel for belting up the clockwork motor 
 to the toy is a short silk- thread spool (C, Fig. 375), fastened 
 to the pivot from which the clock hands were removed. 
 This spool may be fastened either with sealing-wax or 
 solder. Lay the clockwork upon its back, center the spool 
 on the pivot, and pour in the melted wax or solder; but be 
 

 
 A. 
 
 Fig. 373.— The Toy Derrick-Crane with Clockwork Motor. 
 

A TOY DERRICK-CRANE 183 
 
 sure to protect the surrounding wheels by placing a piece 
 of paper over them, especially if you use solder, otherwise 
 you are likely to spill the solder on the wheels and unite 
 them into a solid mass. 
 
 For Pulley-Belts, buy a couple of rubber-bands % inch 
 wide and 2% inches long (D, Fig. 375). The purpose of 
 one of the rubber-band belts is to turn the drum on which 
 the cable is wound that raises the derrick boom; the purpose 
 of the other rubber-band belt is to turn the drum on which 
 the hoisting-cable is wound. The belts run from the spool 
 pulleys F joined to the spool drums E, to the spool pulley C 
 on the clock work motor (Figs. 375 and 378). By the two- 
 belt arrangement, one or both winding-drums can be turned 
 at a time, by slipping one or both belts upon pulley C on 
 the clockwork motor. When only one belt is connected up, 
 the other is slipped over the nail / (Fig. 375) to lock the 
 winding-drum which it turns. By giving the belt a half 
 twist before slipping it over the pulley, as shown in Fig. 
 375, the drum will turn in the direction opposite to that in 
 which it turns when it runs straight over the pulley; there- 
 fore, the winding and unwinding of the drums depend upon 
 whether the belts run straight or are twisted. Five opera- 
 tions can be controlled. The cable can be wound upon one 
 drum while the other drum is locked (Fig. 375), or it can 
 be unwound, both cables can be wound or unwound simul- 
 taneously, and one cable can be wound while the other 
 cable is being unwound. Also, both belts can be thrown 
 off the motor pulley, and looped on to the nails / (Fig. 378), 
 to lock the drums and allow the motor to run free. 
 
184 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 The Winding- Drums are common thread spools (E, Figs. 
 378 and 379), the pulleys on their ends (F) are short silk 
 spools. Nail the pulley spools 
 to the drum spools with brads. 
 Cut the axle for mounting 
 the drums and pulleys enough 
 smaller in diameter than the 
 spool holes so the spools will 
 turn easily (G, Fig. 379). 
 The axles are mounted on 
 supports H (Fig. 378), a 
 pattern for which is given in 
 Tig- 377- The axle holes are 
 located on the pattern. 
 
 The Motor Shack is shown 
 in detail in Fig. 380. Patterns 
 for the floor (/), end walls 
 (K), and side wall (L), are 
 
 _,. _ „ J n Fig. 378. — Drum and Pulley Frame 
 
 given in Pig. ^8$. Cut floor Fig. 379. — Spool Drum, Pulley and 
 
 J and ends K out of %-inch shaft 
 
 wood, and use a piece of cigar-box wood for side L. The 
 roof is shown in pattern M (Fig. 383). This is also a piece 
 of cigar-box wood. The roof piece must be soaked in water, 
 to prevent its splitting, before it is bent over the rounded ends 
 K. The notch in the front edge of the roof piece is provided 
 to admit the derrick mast. The notch in the front wall K 
 is provided to admit the beam Q, (Fig. 384), and the hole 
 bored to one side of the notch is made for the hoisting-cable 
 to run through. 
 
 Fig. 379 
 
A TOY DERRICK-CRANE 
 
 185 
 
 Install the Motor before attaching the roof to the shack. 
 Place the clockwork against wall L, mark the points where 
 the pivots touch the wood, and bore holes through the wall 
 at these points for the pivots to stick through. One of the 
 
 7 
 
 Fig.380 
 
 Fig. 381 Fig. 382 
 
 Fig. 380. — Detail of Motor Shack 
 Figs. 381 and 382. — Details of Turntable Truck 
 Fig. 383. — Patterns for Parts of Shack and Truck 
 
 projecting pivots is for the alarm-winding key, another is 
 for the time-winding key. Screw these keys onto their 
 pivots, and they will hold the clockwork to the wall. Nail 
 the winding-drum supports H to floor / and to front wall K. 
 
^R 
 
 <4V 
 
 Fig. 389 
 
 oj / 
 
 6 
 
 u 
 
 T 
 
 Fig. 386 
 
 K |x^*xl2" 
 
 % 
 
 ^3" x 3" x ,2 n 
 
 Fig. 385 
 
 Fig. 384 
 
 Fig. 390 
 
 Figs. 387 and 388 
 Fig. 389. — Pulley Supports 
 
 Fig. 384. — Derrick Beam 
 
 Fig. 385. — Derrick Mast 
 
 Fig. 386. — Spool Pulley 
 
 and Axle 
 
 How Pulley is Made 
 
 Fig. 390. — Derrick Boom 
 
 186 
 
A TOY DERRICK-CRANE 
 
 187 
 
 The motor shack is pivoted upon 
 a base (N, Fig. 381), to turn as 
 
 A Turntable, so that the 
 derrick-crane may be swung 
 around in any direction, and the 
 base N is mounted on spools (O, 
 Fig. 382), to form a truck that can 
 be moved along a track (Figs. 373 
 and 374). Pivot the shack with a 
 screw slipped through a hole bored 
 through the center of board N and 
 screwed into the center of floor J. 
 Slip the center portion of a spool 
 (P) between floor J and board N. 
 
 The Derrick is the next portion 
 to construct. First prepare 
 
 The Beam Q by the diagram of 
 Fig. 384, with one end notched on 
 each side to fit between the lower 
 ends of the boom (Fig. 390). Slip 
 the beam through the notch in the 
 front wall of the shack, and nail it 
 to floor /. Then prepare 
 
 The Mast R of the size shown in 
 Fig- 385. At the upper end of this 
 is fastened 
 
 The Mast Pulley T (Figs. 385 
 and 386). The pulley-wheel is 
 
 Fig. 392 
 
 Figs. 391 and 392.— Details of Hoisting- Block 
 Fig. 393. — Detail of Hoisting-Cable 
 
1 88 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 made of the ends of a spool (Fig. 387). The easiest 
 way to saw off the ends of a spool is to drive three 
 spools onto a stick whittled to fit tightly in their holes 
 (Fig. 388), and then hold onto two of the spools while you 
 saw off the ends of the third spool. Cut an axle to fit the 
 pulley- wheel (U, Fig. 386), and prepare a pair of supports 
 with a hole in each to receive the axle ends (S, Fig. 389). 
 Nail the supports to the mast end as shown in Fig. 385. 
 
 The Boom (Fig. 390) has two side sticks (V), two sepa- 
 rators (W), and a pair of pulleys (T). Make the pulleys 
 like the mast-top pulley. Assemble the boom parts as 
 shown. The lower ends of sticks V are pivoted to the end 
 of beam Q, so the boom can be raised and lowered. Bore 
 holes through strips V for screw pivots to run through. 
 
 The Hoisting-Block (Fig. 391) consists of a spool-end 
 pulley (T), a frame made of two axle supports (S, Fig. 392), 
 a separator (T^), and a screw-hook (X). Assemble the 
 parts as shown. 
 
 Heavy cotton wrapping-twine is best for 
 
 The Cables. Attach the cable for raising and lowering 
 the boom to a small double-pointed tack driven into the 
 upper separator W of the boom ( F, Fig. 390), then run it 
 over the pulley on the top of the mast, run it down through 
 a hole in the roof of the shack, and tie it to the upper winding- 
 drum. 
 
 Tie the hoisting-cable to a double-pointed tack driven 
 into the under side of the upper separator W (Z, Fig. 393), 
 pass it completely around the pulley of the hoisting-block, 
 then run it up and once around the upper pulley of the 
 
A TOY DERRICK-CRANE 189 
 
 boom, then down to and once around the lower pulley of 
 the boom, and then through the hole in the front wall of 
 the motor shack, and tie to the lower winding-drum. A 
 drop of glue will hold the string cables fast to the winding- 
 drums. 
 
 Tracks for the derrick truck to run upon can be made of 
 a pair of long sticks, and these can be nailed to the tops of 
 boxes, or placed across the tops of chair backs. 
 
An electro-magnet is one of the most interesting of the 
 simpler, easily constructed pieces of electrical apparatus 
 which a boy can make. In the author's book The Handy 
 Boy, are shown several things to make with electro-magnets. 
 In this chapter an electro-magnet is shown incorporated 
 in a toy traveling crane (Fig. 394) The crane travels 
 back and forth upon a track supported on chair backs, and 
 the electro-magnet, raised by a cord cable that winds upon 
 a spool drum, will lift as many as two hundred and fifty 
 brads at a time. One of the author's readers who built 
 an electro-magnet derrick like the one described in The 
 Handy Boy, writes that by making a trifle longer electro- 
 magnet than that shown in the model, he was enabled to 
 lift a weight of 1 pound 2 ounces. The traveling crane is 
 easy to make. 
 
 The Crane Carriage (Fig. 395) is a simple frame built 
 
 up of two pairs of wooden strips (A and B), mounted upon 
 
 a pair of ribbon spool wheels (C), with a third spool (D) 
 
 mounted between for the cable winding-drum Bore three 
 
 34-inch holes through strips A (Fig. 396) for the spool 
 
 axles. Cut the axles to fit snugly in the holes of the spool 
 
 wheels and winding-drum (Figs. 397 and 398), and cut 
 
 190 
 
AN ELECTRO-MAGNET TRAVELING CRANE 191 
 
 their ends to fit loosely in the holes in strips A. Crank 
 F (Fig. 399) is to be fastened to axle E. A similar crank 
 must be fastened to one end of one of the wheel axles (Fig. 
 
 Fig. 394. — The Electro-Magnet Traveling-Crane 
 
 395). A long brad forms the crank-handle. The handle 
 for the winding-drum crank should fit loosely, and several 
 small holes should be drilled in stick A in the correct posi : 
 tions so the crank handle can be pushed into them to lock 
 the winding-drum at any point desired (Fig 395) The 
 crank on the wheel axle moves the crane carriage along its 
 tracks. 
 
192 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 To Switch 
 To BATTERY- 
 
 Make the Tracks of Sticks heavy enough to support the 
 carriage and loads to be hoisted, without bending. Nail 
 strips across the ends of the track sticks to hold them at 
 the proper distance apart (Fig. 394). 
 
 The Electro- 
 Magnet has a core of 
 soft iron encased in a 
 coil of wire. When 
 an electric current 
 passes through this 
 coil, the core be- 
 comes a magnet, but 
 it retains its mag- 
 netism only as long as 
 the current continues 
 to pass through 
 the wire. In using 
 an electro - magnet, 
 therefore, the elec- 
 tric current must be 
 passed through the 
 coil continuously 
 while a load is being 
 lifted, and shut off 
 when the load is to 
 be dropped. 
 
 Figure 40O shows FlGS - 396 ' 399 - _ Details of Crane Carriage 
 
 the completed electro-magnet. A carriage-bolt about 2^ 
 inches long and \i inch in diameter is needed for the magnet 
 
 Fig. 395. — Detail of Crane Carriage and 
 Electro-Magnet 
 
 Fig. 399 
 
 Fig. 396 
 
 Fig 397 
 
AN ELECTRO-MAGNET TRAVELING CRANE 193 
 
 core, insulated electric-bell wire for the coil, cardboard, 
 paper, and a dry-battery cell. 
 
 Cut three cardboard washers of the diameter of the bolt- 
 
 ToHoisting-Cable 
 
 Fig. 400 
 
 Fig. 401 Fig. 402 
 
 Fig. 400. — The Electro-Magnet 
 
 Fig. 401 and 402. — Detail Showing Magnet Winding 
 
 head (Fig. 401), slip them over the bolt, and screw on the 
 nut (Fig. 402). Then slip one end of the wire between the 
 upper two washers, and, starting at that end, wind the wire 
 around the bolt, pushing each turn close to the preceding 
 turn. When the head of the bolt is reached, wind back to 
 
i 9 4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the starting point; then wind back to the head again, and 
 so on until four or six layers have been wound on. Slip 
 the second end of the wire between the cardboard washers, 
 and screw the nut tight to hold the coil in position. 
 Figures 394 and 395 show how one wire end of the coil 
 
 Fig. 405 
 
 Fig. 403 
 
 -TO- MAGNET-" * / 
 -TOBATTERY y 
 
 Figs. 403 and 404. — Switch Open and Closed 
 
 Fig. 405. — Details of Binding-Post and Contact Plates 
 
 Figs. 406-407. — Details of Switch 
 
 Fig. 404 
 
 is connected by wire with a dry-battery cell, how the other 
 end is connected with a switch on the crane carriage, and how 
 a third wire connects the battery with the switch. 
 
 The Switch for opening and closing the electric circuit 
 is shown in Figs. 403 and 404. Make the contact plates A 
 out of tin or brass (Fig. 405), and punch holes through 
 
AN ELECTRO-MAGNET TRAVELING CRANE 195 
 
 them for screw-eye binding-posts B, for brass tack contact 
 point C, and for the lever screw. Make lever D (Figs. 406 
 and 407) of tin or brass, with turned up tips on one end to 
 tack to the wooden knob E. 
 
 The Hoisting -Cable cord is to be attached to the top of 
 the magnet, then run up and over the winding-drum spool, 
 and glued to it. 
 
CHAPTER XVII 
 A TOY MACHINE-GUN 
 
 If you will carefully follow the instructions and working 
 details given in this chapter, you will have in your possession 
 after a few hours' work, the toy machine-gun shown in 
 Fig. 408. This gun will fire twelve wooden cartridges in 
 as short a time as it takes to turn the firing-crank twelve 
 revolutions. It will wipe out an army of toy soldiers in 
 no time at all. If you want to, you can organize a machine- 
 gun squad and drill out in the open as the boys in the 
 photograph of Fig. 409 are doing. A pamphlet on machine- 
 gun drill can be obtained from the Superintendent of 
 Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C. 
 
 Figure 410 shows a detail of the completed machine-gun, 
 and the tripod mount. Figures 411 and 412 are longitudinal 
 sections through the stock, barrel, and cartridge chamber 
 and magazine, showing the hammer and firing mechanism. 
 Figure 413 shows a longitudinal section of the gun-stock. 
 This is the first part of the gun to prepare. It is made of 
 three parts {A, B, and C). Figure 414 shows dimensions 
 of the blocks required for parts A and B. After planing 
 up these blocks square and true, and of the given dimen- 
 sions, draw diagonal lines across both ends of block A, and 
 across one end of block B, to locate the centers. Then 
 
 196 
 
Fig. 410. — Detail of Machine-Gun and Tripod 
 
 197 
 
198 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 with a %-inch bit bore a hole through the center of block 
 A from end to end, and another hole through the center of 
 B for a distance of 7 inches. These holes are for the barrel 
 (F, Figs. 411 and 417), a piece of brass-tubing y 2 inch in 
 diameter. The reason for boring the hole larger than the 
 
 Fig. 411. — Machine-Gun before Hammer has been Drawn Back 
 
 barrel is so that the barrel can be mounted straight even 
 though the hole runs a trifle off center. This will allow for 
 only a slight correction, so you must bore the holes accurately. 
 The brass tubing used for the barrel must not be forced into a 
 crooked hole, as it will bend easily, and a bent bore would 
 make a poor gun. It is best to bore from both ends of block 
 A halfway through the length. When the holes have been 
 bored, round off the top of block A from end to end, as 
 shown in Fig. 415, and shape off the top of block B at the 
 

 A TOY MACHINE-GUN 
 
 199 
 
 end through which the barrel hole has been bored, so when 
 blocks A and B are joined their ends will match. Two 
 mortises must be cut in block B, one mortise down through 
 the top as far as the barrel bore, the other up through the 
 bottom as far as the bore, The mortises are located, and 
 
 Fig. 412. — Machine-Gun with Hammer in Position for Firing 
 
 their sizes are indicated, on Figs. 413 and 415. Mark out 
 the mortises carefully. Bore several }4-inch holes inside 
 of the mortise lines, boring them as deep as the barrel 
 bore, then cut out the wood between the holes with a chisel, 
 and square up the mortises. 
 
 When blocks A and B have been prepared, fasten them 
 together with plate C (Fig. 413). Cut this of the same 
 width as the blocks, and 10 inches long, and lap it as shown. 
 Handle E on the breech end is a wire coat-hook. Mark out 
 side pieces D of the stock frame by the pattern shown in 
 
Fig. 413 
 
 Fig. 416 
 
 Fig. 413. — • Longitudinal Section of Machine-Gun Stock 
 Figs. 414 and 415. — ■ Details of Stock 
 Fig. 416. — Detail of Stock Frame 
 
 200 
 
A TOY MACHINE-GUN 201 
 
 Fig. 416. The easiest way to prepare these parts so they 
 will be alike is to tack together two 24-inch boards, mark 
 out the outline upon one board, and then saw out the two 
 pieces at one time. Plane up and sandpaper the edges, 
 before separating the pieces. Also, bore the holes shown 
 in Fig. 416 — four 3^-inch holes near the top edge, and 
 four holes of the sizes marked, in the positions located. 
 Use for these holes will be shown later. 
 
 The piece of tubing for 
 
 The Barrel must be free from corrosion on the inside, 
 it must be straight, and its ends must be reamed out with 
 a file if burrs remain on the inside edges from the cutting 
 of the pipe. The author used a piece of iron gas-pipe in 
 his first model, but found that brass tubing is better as it 
 presents a smoother inside surface, it is easier to cut, also. 
 You can get brass tubing at almost any machine-shop. If 
 they haven't a piece of the right size at hand, they will 
 likely get a piece for you, or be able to tell you where you 
 can get it. A piece 20 inches long is required. Figures 
 417 and 418 show how the chamber end of the barrel must 
 be slotted for a length of 2 inches, and how the upper half 
 of the tubing must be cut away for a distance of 4 inches. 
 You can cut the slot with a flat file y% inch thick, using it 
 edgewise, and making the slot equal in width to the thick- 
 ness of the file. The upper part of the tubing can be cut 
 away by using the file flatwise. The pair of small holes 
 shown pierced through the tubing near its end are provided 
 for anchoring the barrel in the gun-stock by driving a 
 finishing-nail through the gun-stock and through the holes. 
 
202 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 The Front Sight (Z, Fig. 410) is a strip of tin of the size 
 shown in Fig. 419, bent to fit over the muzzle of the barrel, 
 with the tip of one end of the strip hammered over on to 
 the other end (Fig. 420). 
 
 The wire for 
 
 The Hammer Rod (G, Figs. 411 and 412) must be of 
 No. 6 gauge. Figures 421 and 422 show the correct shape 
 and size. To make the turns at the point for pivoting, 
 bend the wire around a bolt or dowel-stick. Spools H 
 
 Fig. Fig. 
 Fig. 417 420 419 
 
 fc 
 
 t4-2- 
 
 20" ■ — 1 
 
 — — — _ - ^ 
 
 ).?£! 
 
 Holes 
 
 Fig. 418 
 
 Figs. 417 and 418. — ■ Details of Tubing for Machine-Gun Barrel 
 Figs. 419 and 420. — Details of Front Sight 
 
 i 
 
 (Fig. 421) are used to keep the rod centered half way between 
 sides D of the gun-stock frame. Cut off as much of the 
 end of each spool as is necessary to make the pair of the 
 right length to fill the space each side of the rod. A ^-inch 
 bolt 3 inches in length is required for the hammer-rod 
 pivot (/, Fig. 421). 
 
 The Hammer Spring is a screen-door spring (/, Figs. 
 411 and 421). Pull out several turns of one end as shown 
 in Fig. 421, and slip them over the upper end of the hammer- 
 rod. Pin the other end of the spring between pieces D 
 
A TOY MACHINE-GUN 
 
 203 
 
 with the nail K (Figs. 410 and 41 1), slipping the nail through 
 the holes in the fore end of pieces D. It may be necessary 
 to break off an inch or so of one end of the spring, to make 
 it short enough so it will be held in tension when its ends 
 are fastened. 
 
 The Firing Crank (L, Figs. 410 and 411) is made of wire 
 of the same thickness as that used for the hammer-rod. 
 
 Fig. 422 
 
 Fig. 423 
 
 Fig. 421 
 
 Figs. 421 and 422. — Details of Hammer-Rod and Pivot 
 Fig. 423. — Detail of Firing-Crank 
 
 Figure 423 shows dimensions for bending the piece. The 
 loop bent in this piece of wire acts as a tripper on the hammer- 
 rod end, as you will see by looking at Figs. 410 and 411. 
 The hammer-rod, spring, and firing-crank must be mounted 
 in the gun-stock frame between side pieces D before the 
 
Fig. 426 
 
 Fig. 427 
 
 F 
 
 '-l(M 
 
 L 
 
 M 
 
 JL 
 
 ±i 
 
 
 8 
 
 H 
 
 Fig 428. 
 
 T- — ' \r „,"?>eolco 
 
 In i """"7 J — *^ _ ^ _ 
 
 N- 
 
 Fig. 424 
 
 Fig. 425 
 
 Fig. 424. — Detail of Cartridge 
 
 Fig. 425. — ■ Magazine Filled with Cartridges 
 
 Figs. 426 and 427. — ■ Details of Magazine 
 
 Fig. 428. — Weight for Holding Cartridges in Position 
 
 204 
 
A TOY MACHINE-GUN 205 
 
 latter are fastened to the stock. Figure 411 shows the right 
 position for the hammer tip when the hammer-rod has 
 been released, and Fig. 412 shows the point to which the 
 hammer must be drawn by the firing-crank rod tripper 
 before being released. If you have bent the hammer-rod 
 and firing-crank rod as shown in the drawings, the hammer 
 tip should come at the two points shown. If it does not, 
 bending the wires at slightly different angles will bring about 
 the proper adjustment. 
 
 Before proceeding further with the construction, it will 
 be well to test out the machine-gun with 
 
 Cartridges. These are pieces of dowel-sticks Yz inch 
 in diameter, cut to the length shown in Fig. 424, with one 
 end whittled cartridge-shape. Sandpaper the cartridges 
 smooth, then wax and polish them. To make the bore 
 of the barrel as smooth as possible, pour oil into it, and 
 then, with a piece of soft rag on the end of a slender stick, 
 spread the oil and remove the surplus. Give plenty of 
 time to testing the firing efficiency of the gun, and adjust 
 and readjust the hammer-rod and firing-crank rod until 
 you are satisfied with the results obtained. 
 
 The Magazine (Fig. 425) is fastened to the gun-stock 
 directly over the upper mortise, so that the cartridges 
 dropped into it will slip into the chamber beneath. Figure 
 426 shows how to cut the piece of tin required for the 
 magazine, from the side of a tin can. Leave the turned- 
 over edge on the can side, as shown, to reinforce the upper 
 edge of the magazine. Figure 427 gives the dimensions 
 for cutting and folding the piece of tin. Bend the lower 
 
206 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 edge to form flanges through which to drive tacks for 
 fastening the magazine to the top of the gun-stock. 
 
 The weight shown in Fig. 428 is necessary to hold down 
 the cartridges so the bottom cartridge will always be in 
 
 Fig. 435 
 
 H!"K 
 
 5=S 
 
 IE 
 
 Fig. 437 
 
 \lf 
 
 S 
 
 V 
 
 KM 
 
 \ 
 
 Fig. 429 
 
 Fig. 432 Fig. 433 
 
 Fig. 431 
 
 Fig. 429. — Machine-Gun Tripod 
 
 Figs. 430-434. — Details of Tripod 
 
 Figs. 435-437. — Details of Yoke for Mounting Gun on Tripod 
 
 the right position in the chamber for the hammer to strike. 
 A piece of solder, or a piece of almost any kind of metal, 
 will do. If you use solder, a screw-eye can be set into one 
 
A TOY MACHINE-GUN 207 
 
 side, to which to attach a piece of string as a means for 
 lifting out the weight after the last of the cartridges has 
 been fired, preparatory to refilling (Fig. 425). The slot 
 in the side of the magazine is made wide enough so the 
 finger can be slipped along it to guide the cartridges dropped 
 into the magazine. 
 
 Figure 410 shows 
 
 The Tripod mount for the machine-gun, and Figs. 429 
 to 434 show details of its construction. Prepare the head 
 block P of the dimensions given in Fig. 430, and cut three 
 notches in the edge, of the sizes shown, and spaced equi- 
 distantly, for the legs. Bore the center hole to receive the 
 yoke spindle V (Fig. 436). Cut the front pair of legs R 
 and the rear leg S of the sizes shown in Fig. 431. Bore a 
 ^-inch hole through each leg i34 inches from the upper 
 end, and cut off the corners of the lower end as shown. To 
 mount the legs, screw a screw-eye into the tripod head each 
 side of each notch (T, Fig. 432), then cut the dowel-pin 
 pivots U (Fig. 433), and drive them through screw-eyes 
 T and through the holes in the legs (Fig. 429). Cut socket 
 block Q of the size shown in Fig. 434, bore a hole through 
 its center to receive the yoke V, and fasten it to the exact 
 center of tripod head P. 
 
 Prepare yoke V and lever W (Fig. 435) of the dimensions 
 shown in Figs. 436 and 437. Cut the spindle on the lower 
 end of yoke V to fit the hole in socket block Q, and bore a 
 hole through the upper end of the yoke through which to 
 drive the axis bolt for pivoting the gun, to provide for 
 
2 o8 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 441 
 
 Fig. 439 
 
 Fig. 438. — Wash-Basin Helmet 
 Figs. 439-441.— How to Attach Rings and Straps 
 to Wash- Basin 
 
 changing elevations. 
 Use the thumb-bolt X 
 and wing-bolt F(Fig. 
 410) for making this 
 connection. 
 
 Paint all parts of 
 the gun black or 
 grey. To make them 
 less conspicuous in 
 the field, it is com- 
 mon practice to 
 paint guns by what 
 is known as the 
 "rainbow smudge" 
 system. But you will 
 not want to dabble 
 in the art of cam- 
 ouflage when finish- 
 ing yourtoy machine 
 gun. 
 
 To be an up-to- 
 date machine gun- 
 ner, you must wear 
 
 A Helmet like that 
 the boys in Fig. 409 
 are wearing. A 
 detail of this helmet 
 is shown in Fig. 438. 
 It consists of a 
 
A TOY MACHINE-GUN 209 
 
 tin wash-basin 11 inches in diameter (Fig. 439) with a 
 pair of rings bent out of wire (Fig. 440) soldered to the 
 inside, through which to run the chin-strap (Fig. 441). 
 Stitch the strap to the rings, to keep the basin from slipping 
 sidewise. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII 
 DRILL-GUNS 
 
 Every boy wants to belong to a drill-club, and if instruc- 
 tion from a man with military training can be obtained, 
 there is no reason why a boys' club or class should not 
 organize a drill club. The handbook Infantry Drill 
 Regulations, which can be purchased for 50 cents, should 
 be obtained as a reference book, and should be followed 
 closely. Its instructions will be understood more easily 
 after drill movements have been demonstrated by the drill 
 master. 
 
 When the author was a lad, the neighborhood boys 
 organized a drill-club, and commissioned him to make 
 guns. These must have fallen far short of standard speci- 
 fications, because there were no dimensioned drawings in 
 the woodshed "arms plant" to work by; but, as the author 
 recollects, the guns were fearsome looking weapons, with 
 long tinfoil-covered stick bayonets, which, by the way, 
 were "fixed" at all times — which is strictly against regula- 
 tions, but unknown to the boys at that time. You can 
 make better guns than these were, for this chapter presents 
 all of the working details necessary. 
 
 The Simple Model of Drill-Gun shown in Fig. 444 has 
 a stock cut in one piece. A pattern for this, ruled off into 
 
Fig. -±i3.— -Squad at "Port Arms" (Equipped with Home-Made Drill- 
 Guns and Wasii-Basin Helmets) . 
 
DRILL GUNS 
 
 Fig. 444 — A Simple Model of Drill-Gun 
 
 squares measuring y% inch each way, each square repre- 
 senting i inch, is shown in Fig. 445. To lay out a full-size 
 pattern, draw a similar set of squares, 1 inch square, upon 
 a piece of paper, and reproduce the outline exactly as it is 
 shown upon the small squares. Saw out the piece, round 
 the edges, and sandpaper the wood. This will provide 
 
 A Pattern for Marking Out Dupli- 
 cate Stocks. You will save time by 
 marking out at one time as many of 
 the stocks as you will require. 
 
 The Barrel is made of a broom-handle 
 (Fig. 447). Cut a shallow groove 
 along the top edge of the stock for the 
 barrel to fit in, and fasten the barrel 
 with screws and wire bands. 
 
 For a Trigger, drive a bent nail (C, 
 Fig. 448) into the stock at the point 
 indicated in Fig. 446, and for 
 
 A Trigger-Guard fasten a plumber's 
 pipe-strap (D, Fig. 448) to the stock, 
 covering the trigger. 
 
 For the Front Sight, bend a piece of 
 tin into the shape of E (Fig. 449), for FlG> 445- L P l ttern of 
 
 The Rear Sight (F, Fig. 450) cut a Stock of Drill-Gun 
 
 Shown in Fig. 444 
 
2i2 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 piece of tin of the shape shown in Fig. 451, bend it in half, 
 turn up the ends, and bend down the tips of these. Tack 
 the sights to the barrel in the positions shown in Fig. 444. 
 
 
 Zj 
 
 Fig. 447 
 
 Fig. 446 
 
 Fig. 446. 
 Fig. 447. 
 
 Fig. 448 
 
 Fig. 451 
 
 Fig. 450 Fig. 449 
 
 - Stock Fig. 449. — Front Sight 
 
 - Barrel Fig. 450 and 451. — Rear Sight 
 Fig. 448. — • Trigger and Trigger-Guard 
 
 The gun will now be ready for 
 
 Finishing. Give the stock a coat of stain or paint of a 
 walnut color. Stain is preferable to paint. When the 
 stain has dried, apply a coat of shellac, then a coat of flat 
 varnish. Paint the barrel black; also the trigger, trigger- 
 guard, and sights. 
 
 Fig. 452. — Springfield Model of Drill-Gun 
 
 The drill-gun shown in Fig. 452 is 
 
 A Springfield Rifle Model. Its stock requires consider- 
 able more work to cut than the stock of the simpler model, 
 but most boys prefer it for drilling because its lines more 
 nearly approach the lines of the modern army rifle. 
 
 Enlarge the pattern for 
 
DRILL-GUNS 
 
 213 
 
 The Stock and Barrel, shown in Fig. 
 453, in the manner directed for the 
 other model's stock. Be careful in 
 enlarging this pattern to locate the 
 various points correctly. Before cutting 
 out the piece, it will be well to check 
 up your measurements to be certain 
 that you have made no errors. The 
 barrel end may be either a piece of 34- 
 inch dowel-stick, or 3^-inch gas-pipe, 
 6 inches long (B, Fig. 454). Bore a 
 hole 2 inches in depth in the barrel and 
 drive the piece B into it. Fasten with 
 nails if a dowel-stick is used, or with a 
 screw driven through a drilled hole, if 
 iron pipe is used. 
 
 The Trigger and Trigger-Guard (C 
 and D) are the same as those of the 
 other model of gun (Fig. 448). 
 
 The Front Sight (E) is shown in 
 detail in Fig. 454. Figure 455 shows 
 the shape and size to cut the strip re- 
 quired. A piece of a tin can will do. 
 Trim off the ends of the strip as shown, 
 bend the piece to fit around the barrel, 
 and hammer the ends together. 
 
 The Rear Sight is made to fold flat 
 against the top of the barrel (F, Figs. 
 452 and 456). When laid down, the 
 
 — ■ r— — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -i 4 
 
 1 
 
 I 
 
 r 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 v 
 
 
 
 1 : 
 
 ^A- 
 
 -F5 
 
 t 
 
 L_ L_ 
 
 5 t 
 
 £ X 
 
 V4 
 
 -CJ 
 
 r 
 
 T 
 
 _\ 
 
 r~ 
 
 Y 
 
 j 
 
 ^_ 
 
 - - I.. 
 
 o 
 
 CO 
 
 Fig. 453. — Pattern of 
 Stock and Barrel of 
 Drill Gun shown in 
 Fig. 452 
 
2i 4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 position is known as battle sight', when raised, the semi- 
 circular notch in the upper edge is known as the open sight, 
 the hole beneath it is known as the peep sight. Cut a piece 
 
 of tin of the s ze 
 
 V 
 
 a n 
 
 l] Fi 
 
 G. 454 
 
 
 1 
 
 rof^j 
 
 f-CG 
 
 — 6" if 
 
 X^ 
 
 th 
 
 Fig. 454. — Detail of Front Sight Fig. 455 
 Fig. 455. — Pattern of Front Sight 
 
 J 
 
 i. 
 
 ■H 
 
 Fig. 457 
 Figs. 456-458.- 
 
 Fig. 458 Fig. 45G 
 
 Details of Rear Sight Drop-Leaf 
 
 Fig. 460 
 
 Figs. 459 and 460. 
 
 shown in Fig. 457, 
 for leaf F, and turn 
 the lower end over 
 a piece of wire (G, 
 Fig. 458). Bend the 
 ends of the piece of 
 wire into loops, and 
 tack these loops to 
 the sides of the 
 gun-stock (Fig. 
 456). The leaf will 
 turn up and down 
 with the wire as an 
 axis. Tack H (Fig 
 456, driven close to 
 the hinge of the 
 leaf, will act as a 
 stop when the leaf 
 
 Fig. 459 
 Details of Sling 
 
 is raised, and can be used as the rear sight when the leaf 
 is laid flat. 
 
 Finish the Drill-Gun in the manner suggested for the 
 other model. Then it will be ready for 
 
 The Sling (/, Fig. 452), without which it would not be 
 complete. An excellent sling that will resemble more or 
 less closely a modern rifle sling, can be made of an old pair 
 
DRILL-GUNS 
 
 215 
 
 U.UjJu. 
 
 of suspenders. Figure 459 shows a sling so made. Separate 
 the suspenders where crossed (Fig. 460), cut off the button- 
 hole tips on the rear ends, and sew the two lengths together. 
 The snaps on the front ends 
 will then snap over the 
 eyes i", screwed into the 
 stock (Fig. 452), and the 
 slide-buckles can be used to 
 shorten the straps. For the 
 eyes use bent-over screw- 
 eyes (I, Fig. 452). Stain 
 the sling with walnut stain, 
 to make it look as nearly 
 like leather as possible. 
 
 The Weight of a Spring- 
 field is 8.69 pounds. Your 
 drill-gun, even if made of 
 heavy wood, will be ex- 
 tremely light by comparison. 
 
 To Increase the Weight 
 of Drill-Guns, the author 
 has found it a good scheme 
 to bore several holes in the 
 stock and barrel, and pour 
 these full of melted lead. 
 In doing this, be careful to 
 keep the center-of-balance at about the position of the 
 rear-sight leaf. 
 
 A Bayonet is easily made out of wood (Fig. 461). Cut 
 
 Fig. 461.— 
 Bayonet 
 
 Fig. 462. 
 Scabbard 
 
216 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the blade of the shape and size of A (Fig. 463), and build 
 up the grip end with the blocks B. Bend a piece of heavy 
 wire into a double loop, like C (Fig. 465) for the guard, and 
 cut a groove across the inner face of blocks B for the wire 
 
 U — -4" — *i 
 
 Fg. 463. — Detail of Bayonet 
 
 Fig. 465 
 
 Fig. 464 
 
 Figs. 464-466. — How Grip of Bayonet 
 Attaches to Gun 
 
 Fig. 467. — Gun with Fixed 
 Bayonet 
 
 to fit into (Figs. 463 and 464) . Cut a slot 2 inches long in 
 the end of the blade (Fig. 464). Nail the grip blocks to 
 the end of the blade, and then shape the assembled grip as 
 shown in Fig. 467. If the loops of the guard have been bent 
 properly, they will slip over the muzzle of the barrel. To 
 hold the end of the grip, fasten the metal strip D (Fig. 466) 
 to the stock, to fit in the slot cut in the end of the blade 
 (Fig. 464). 
 
 Finish the bayonet by first sandpapering the wood very 
 carefully, making the edge sharp and straight. Then paint 
 
DRILL-GUNS 
 
 217 
 
 the blade with aluminum paint, and finish the grip with 
 walnut stain. 
 
 A Scabbard for the bayonet is shown in Fig. 462. Make 
 this out of two pieces of cardboard, glued together along 
 the edges, with a covering of khaki-colored cloth. Make 
 the top loop large enough for your belt to run through. 
 
PART III 
 
 Backward and 
 Camp Craft 
 
Two-Arm Semaphore Signaling by a Patrol of the Author's Troop of 
 Boy Scouts of America, Elmhurst, Ills. 
 
Every boy ought to know how to converse by means of 
 one of the several signal systems in common use. About 
 the simplest system to learn, and one which makes rapid 
 sending possible, is the two-arm semaphore system; there- 
 fore, the way to make a pair of hand signal flags, and the 
 signal-code, is shown in this chapter. 
 
 It is not necessary to own a pair of flags to learn the 
 code, since the positions of the arms of the boy signalling 
 determine the code letters. The flags serve to amplify the 
 hand positions, and of course this is necessary when sending 
 from a distance. It is easiest to learn the code without 
 the flags, because then you need concern yourself only with 
 the positions of your arms in forming the letters. As soon 
 as you have memorized the positions, and can send at a 
 rate of at least thirty letters a minute, you will be so proud 
 of your achievement that you will want to own a pair of 
 flags at once. 
 
 A Hand Flag of Standard Size is shown in Fig. 468, its 
 dimensions are given in Fig. 469, and the size of its staff 
 is shown in Fig. 470. The flag is divided diagonally into 
 two parts, one of which is made of red muslin, the other 
 of white. Cut the cloth enough larger than shown to 
 
222 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 allow for turning over % 
 inch of each edge for a 
 hem. If you have mother 
 or sister do this stitching 
 on the sewing-machine, it 
 will be the best way of 
 getting a good job done 
 quickly. Cut the staff 
 stick of the size shown, 
 round the edges, and sand- 
 paper all surfaces smooth. 
 Then shellac it, and when 
 the shellac has dried tack 
 the flag to one side. 
 
 Memorizing the Code 
 is not difficult, but it 
 requires continuous prac- 
 tice to get to the point 
 where one can send rapid- 
 ly. The following sug- 
 gestions will help you "get 
 the hang" of it, and 
 probably you will be able 
 to work out schemes of 
 your own that will help 
 you remember the for- 
 mation of certain letters. 
 
 Observe, first of all, 
 
 Fig. 468. — Hand Flag 
 
 Fig. 469. — Pattern for Hand Flag 
 
 Fig. 470. — Staff for Hand Flag 
 
SIGNALLING 223 
 
 that the positions of the arms in forming the letters of the 
 alphabet are eight in number, and correspond to the posi- 
 tions of the hour-hand of a clock when at 6 o'clock, 7 30, 
 g o'clock, 10:30, 12 o'clock, 1:30, 3 o'clock, and 4:30. Observe, 
 also, that the arms advance clockwise, in going through the 
 alphabet. 
 
 In forming letters A to D, the left hand is placed in the 
 position of a clock's hour-hand when at 6 o'clock, the right- 
 hand is placed successively at 7:30, 9 o'clock, 10:30, and 
 12 o'clock. In forming letters E to G, the right hand is 
 substituted for the left hand, and the left hand is advanced 
 from 1:30 to 4:30. For letters H and /, the left hand is 
 held at 7:30, the right hand is placed at 9 o'clock, then at 
 10:30. Letters K to N are formed with the right-hand 
 held at 7:30, the left hand is placed successively at 12 o'clock, 
 1 :3o, 3 o'clock, and 4:30. For letters P to S, the right hand 
 is held at 9 o'clock, the left hand is placed successively at 
 12 o'clock, 1:30, 3 o'clock, and 4:30. 
 
 For letters T, U, and Y, the right-hand is held at 10:30, 
 the left hand is placed at 12 o'clock, 1:30, and 3 o'clock. 
 For letters / and V, the right hand is held at 12 o'clock, 
 the left hand is placed at 3 o'clock and 4:30. For letters 
 W and X, the left hand is held at 1 :3o, the right hand at 
 3 o'clock and 4:30. For letter Z, the left hand is held at 
 3 o'clock, the right hand at 4:30. 
 
 Remember that the letter U is like a letter U., that letter 
 N is U inverted (same as small letter n is letter u inverted) ; 
 letter Y is like a letter Y except that the left-hand is dropped 
 one position; letter X is really the left-hand side of a 
 
224 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 letter X. Opposite letters are A and G, B and F, C and 
 E, H and Z, / and X, / and P, K and V, O and W (think 
 of and "double-yo"), M and S, and Q and Y. Perhaps 
 you will find it helpful to associate these letters in this way. 
 
 INTCRROGAfOKY 
 
 w 
 
 ACKNOWLCD&C 
 
 
 Fi(j. 471. — Signal Code 
 
 To Attract Attention, before starting to signal, shake the flags above 
 your head in the positions indicated for attention. Before sending numerals, 
 cross the flags over head as shown for numerals. Use letters A to J for numbers. 
 Spell out numerals when they come in the body of a message. If you make 
 an error, signal A. To annul a message, make N. To acknowledge that the 
 message has been understood, make R. To signify readiness, send L. Indi- 
 cate a negative reply by K, an affirmative reply by P, a question by O. 
 
 Finish a Message with a chop-chop motion of the flags at "the right, as 
 indicated for "end." Abbreviations will not be confused with letters, by the 
 receiver, if the sender follows them with the interval. 
 
CHAPTER XX 
 SIMPLE MODEL AIRPLANES 
 
 Before you can build successful model airplanes, you 
 must know the principles which govern their stability, and 
 the best way to learn these is with gliders like those shown 
 in this chapter. When you have experimented with these, 
 you will be so interested in the work that you will want to 
 make motor-propelled models, and for models of this type 
 the author refers you to his handicraft book, The Handy 
 Boy, in which are presented instructions for building record- 
 breaking models, for making propellers and rubber-band 
 motors, for a motor- winder and flight-distance measuring 
 apparatus. 
 
 For gaining an understanding of 
 
 The Matter of Balance , take a business-size envelope. 
 Drop this flat, straight down, and it will land upon 
 the ground without upsetting; but give it a forward move- 
 ment and it will upset. Its upsetting in the one case but not 
 in the other is due to the action of two forces, the force of 
 gravity which pulls it groundward, and the air pressure 
 beneath which buoys it up. In order to have it balance, 
 the centers of these two forces must coincide. 
 
 The Center of Gravity and Center of Air Pressure. The 
 center of gravity is always the center of weight, the balancing 
 
 225 
 
Fig. 472 
 
 /' 
 
 If 
 
 // /■■ 
 
 Us 
 
 1 1 
 
 y 
 
 \ 
 
 t 
 l 
 l 
 
 t 1 1 
 II V 
 
 i 
 
 A 
 
 VJ 
 
 /I I 
 
 ■if 
 
 » / Fig. 473 
 
 
 '***.. 
 
 Fig. 474 
 
 Fig. 476 
 Figs. 472-476^ — Diagrams in Explanation of the Matter of Balance 
 
 226 
 
SIMPLE MODEL AIRPLANES 
 
 227 
 
 point. The center of air pressure varies. When the 
 envelope is dropped straight down, flat (Fig. 472), this 
 center of pressure (P) comes at the same point as the center 
 of gravity (G),and 
 there is perfect 
 balance. When the 
 envelope moves 
 forward while 
 dropping, how- 
 ever, the center of 
 air pressure shifts 
 forward, the front 
 edge is forced up, 
 and the envelope 
 upsets (Fig 473). 
 
 To Make An 
 Envelope Glide 
 without upsetting 
 it is necessary to 
 shift the center of 
 
 gravity to a point Figs. 477 and 478. — An Envelope Glider 
 
 which will coincide with the center of pressure. This can 
 be done by adding weight to the forward edge. Try a 
 paper-clip, slipping it over the envelope as shown in Fig. 
 474. If, with the clip in place, the envelope darts head-on 
 to the ground, the clip is too heavy, and has caused the 
 center of gravity to shift beyond the center of pressure (G 
 and P,Fig. 474). Slide the clip back and forth until the 
 weight is so adjusted that the envelope will first dip nose- 
 
228 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 down for a distance, then straighten up and glide horizon- 
 tally, as shown in Fig. 475. 
 
 If an air current strikes the envelope sidewise, it will 
 cause the center of pressure to shift and the envelope to 
 upset. Bend the envelope along its center so that the 
 
 Fig. 479. — A Cardboard Glider 
 
 ends will tilt up (Fig. 476), and the danger of upsetting will 
 be lessened. The tilted surface allows the air to slip off 
 of the ends more readily than a flat surface does. Con- 
 sequently, when a side current strikes end A (Fig. 476), 
 lifts it up, and turns end B down, as indicated by dotted 
 lines, the envelope glider quickly rights itself because the 
 air slips out from under tilted end A and the air pressure 
 forces up flat end B. 
 
 Figure 477 shows 
 
 An Envelope Glider made by opening all pasted flaps 
 of an envelope (Fig. 478), and slipping a paper clip over 
 the folded over gummed flap. 
 
SIMPLE MODEL AIRPLANES 
 
 229 
 
 Fig. 480 
 
 Figure 479 shows 
 
 A Cardboard Glider. The framework, or fuselage (A), 
 connecting the planes, is a cardboard strip of the dimensions 
 shown in Fig. 480, folded where indicated by dotted lines, 
 into the shape 
 shown in Fig. 481. 
 Main plane B and 
 elevator plane C are 
 pieces of cardboard 
 of the size shown 
 in Figs. 482 and 
 483. Cut a notch 
 at the center of 
 each of the long 
 edges of each plane 
 as shown. The 
 planes must be 
 centered on the 
 fuselage. Cut slots 
 in the fuselage 
 strip, as indicated, 
 to slip the planes 
 through, and when 
 you find by testing FlGS - 48 °- 483 - 
 out the glider that the ends of the planes balance, fix the 
 planes in position with pins run through from the under 
 side of the fuselage (Fig. 481). In launching the model, 
 turn it so that elevator plane C is in front. 
 
 The advantage in making the glider type of model air- 
 
 Fig. 482 
 -Detail of Parts of Cardboard Glider 
 

 23 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 plane is that it requires neither motor nor propellers, which 
 are the most difficult parts of model airplanes to make. 
 The glider will not go a great distance, but if you will shoot 
 it into the air by means of a rubber-band sling shot you 
 can send it several 
 hundred feet. Fig- 
 ure 484 shows 
 
 A Sling-Shot 
 Glider. Cut stick 
 A (Fig. 485) of the 
 proportions shown, 
 and with a saw slit 
 one end for a dis- 
 tance of 2 3^2 inches 
 to receive keel B 
 (Figs. 486 and 488). 
 Cut keel B out of 
 heavy cardboard, 
 of the dimensions 
 given in Fig. 489, 
 then fasten it in the 
 slots with brads. 
 The hook upon the 
 bow (C, Fig. 486) 
 
 is provided for the loop of the sling-shot to slip over. Make 
 it out of a heavy hairpin. Bend the pin into a straight 
 piece, then bend one end into a hook (Fig. 487). Make a 
 small hole through stick A 1 inch from the bow end, slip 
 the straight end of the wire up through the hole, and bend 
 
 Fig. 484 — A Sling-Shot Glider 
 
SIMPLE MODEL AIRPLANES 
 
 231 
 
 it down against the top of the stick as indicated by dotted 
 lines in Fig. 487. Bind the hook to stick A by wrapping 
 with thread (Fig. 486). 
 
 Elevator plane D and main plane E (Fig. 485) are made 
 of heavy cardboard. Figures 490 and 491 show diagrams 
 for marking them 
 out. In mounting 
 place them so stick 
 A crosses their 
 centers, and bind 
 each to the stick 
 with a strong rub- 
 ber-band, passed 
 beneath the stick 
 and looped over 
 the plane ends (F, 
 Figs. 48 5 and 486). 
 Rest the forward 
 edge of plane D 
 upon hook C (Fig. 
 486) to give it the 
 proper tilt. 
 
 The Sling-Shot. 
 It is not necessary 
 to tell how to make 
 this of looped together rubber-bands joined to a tree-crotch, 
 because every boy knows how. 
 
 To Launch the Sling-Shot Glider, hold the tail end of the 
 glider with the right hand and the sling-shot with the left 
 
 Fig. 486. 
 Fig. 487. 
 
 Fig. 487 
 
 Side Elevation of Sling-Shot Glider 
 - Detail of End Hook 
 
Fig. 489 
 
 Fig. 488 
 
 Fig. 490 
 
 E 
 
 10"- 
 
 Fig. 491 
 Figs. 488-491. — Details of Glider Planes and Keel 
 
 Fig. 492. — An Aerial Top 
 
 232 
 
SIMPLE MODEL AIRPLANES 
 
 2 33 
 
 hand, as shown in Fig. 484, and release the glider in the 
 same way that you shoot an arrow from a bow. Slide the 
 planes backward and forward until you find the positions 
 which give the model perfect balance while in flight. 
 
 Fig. 495 
 
 B 
 
 > m 
 
 IC ^w 
 
 T 
 H 
 
 
 l \ 
 
 Fig. 494 
 
 Fig. 493. — Detail of Completed 
 Aerial Top 
 
 Fig. 494. — Detail showing Hub Stick 
 
 and Shaft Connections 
 Fig. 495. — Detail of Propeller Blades 
 
 The Aerial Top shown in Fig. 492 is one of the most fas- 
 cinating of the simpler aerial toys. By means of its spinning 
 cord, it can be made to rise a distance of one hundred feet 
 or more before returning to the ground. 
 
234 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 The top requires a stick shaft {A, Fig. 493), a hub-stick 
 (B), for which a carpenter's dowel-stick or a flagstaff may 
 be used, two cardboard propeller-blades (C), and a large 
 spool {D) . With a saw, slot the ends of hub B a distance of 
 % inch, to receive the propeller-blade (Fig. 494). Cut the 
 slots at an angle that will give the blades the pitch shown 
 in Fig. 493, and be careful to get the angle of the slots alike. 
 Bore a small hole through the hub-stick, and taper the 
 shaft to fit snugly in thia hole (Fig. 494). Whittle the 
 opposite end of the shaft to fit loosely in the spool hole. 
 Plug up the lower end of the spool hole. 
 
 Figure 495 shows the dimensions for the propeller-blades. 
 Fasten the blades in the hub ends with brads. 
 
 To Spin the Top, wind the cord about its shaft, spinning- 
 top fashion, then hold the spool and string as shown in 
 Fig. 492, and pull the string. When the string has unwound, 
 the top will rise in the air. 
 
CHAPTER XXI 
 
 TENTS FOR HIKES AND THE 
 BACK YARD 
 
 Old awnings, draperies, sheets, quilts, potato sacks, 
 in fact, almost any kind of material large or small, torn 
 
 nnnn 
 
 Fig. 496. — "A" Shelter Tent 
 
 or worn, can be cut, pieced, or mended, for a back-yard 
 tent; and almost any kind of easily packed material can 
 be made into a good enough shelter for sleeping out when 
 on a hike. Four ways of utilizing such material as the above 
 are shown in the illustrations in this chapter. Other plans 
 
 235 
 
236 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS PT>R BOYS 
 
 Fig. 496. — Tripod Tent 
 
 for tent making — for making an "A" and a wall tent 
 of standard proportions — are presented in the author's 
 book Handicraft for Handy Boys. 
 
 The "A" Shelter Tent shown in Fig. 496 is about as 
 simple a tent as you can make. The ridge-pole, for which 
 a rake-handle or pole of about that size, may be used, is 
 supported at one end by blocks of wood nailed to a fence 
 or tree in the form of a bracket. The other end is suspended 
 from the fence top or tree trunk by ropes. The tent mate- 
 rial, after being thrown over the 
 ridge-pole, can be tied at the 
 sides to stakes driven into the 
 ground, or the side edges can 
 be tacked to wooden strips 
 fastened to stakes, as shown in 
 Fig. 496. The latter arrange- 
 ment makes a neater appearing 
 tent. 
 
 Fig. 497. — Diagram of Cloth _ ,-..,«, l. 
 
 for Tripod Tent For the Tripod Tent shown in 
 
Fig. 498. — Lean-To Tent 
 
 14-0- 
 
 i*- - 4 , -9"_4: — 4'-6" — *- -A'-B' 1 —* 
 
 Fig. 499. — Diagram of Cloth for Lean-To Tent 
 
 237 
 
2 3 8 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 496, you will need a piece of covering material 7 feet 
 square, and three poles. The cloth must be folded in half 
 from corner to corner, as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 
 497, and the poles must be set up tripod fashion so that 
 the cloth will enclose two sides as shown. Tapes should 
 be sewed to the cloth, or pinned on with safety-pins, for 
 fastening the cloth to the pole supports. 
 
 
 -~«C~ ~' / '~V..._.'.'/-..iv l . 
 
 
 Fig. 500. — Cage Tent 
 
 The Lean-to Tent shown in Fig. 498 is best made of a 
 piece of cloth of the dimensions shown in Fig. 499. The 
 dotted lines show how the cloth must be folded. Portion 
 A forms the top of the tent, portions B the sides, and 
 corners C turn under and lie flat on the ground. 
 
 The illustration shows the tent supported between trees, 
 with a single pole supporting the front edge of the top. 
 If no trees are at hand, support the ends of the pole on 
 uprights. Tie or sew tapes to the corners of the tent, and 
 drive stakes into the ground at the points for tying. 
 
 The Cage Tent in Fig. 500 makes a good close-to-the 
 
TENTS FOR HIKES AND THE BACK YARD 239 
 
 Figs. 501 and 502. — Details of Framework for Cage Tent 
 
 ground shelter tent. Prepare four hoops to support the 
 covering material out of No. 8 or No. 9 wire, cutting this 
 into 5-foot lengths, and bending these pieces into arches 
 2 feet in diameter (Fig. 501). The tent framework should 
 measure about 5 feet from end to end. Place the arches 
 20 inches apart, and push the ends several inches into the 
 ground. 
 
 The three poles across the top of the arches keep the 
 
240 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 covering material from sagging between the arches. Cut 
 them long enough to project several inches beyond the end 
 arches. Connect them with cords of the right length to 
 let them hang at the distance apart shown (Fig. 502). 
 
 Figure 500 shows how to bring the covering material 
 to a point at each end, and tie it to a stake, to enclose the 
 tent. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII 
 
 BACK YARD AND CAMP FIRE- 
 PLACES 
 
 The place to learn how to make a camp fireplace and 
 how to cook, is at home, and as good a spot as any to build 
 the fireplace is the back yard. A small campfire can be 
 built in the yard with safety if a pit is made to hold the fire. 
 On the following pages will be found suggestions for building 
 fireplaces, an oven, and a camp-stove. 
 
 The Fireplace with Trenched Fire-Pit, shown in Fig. 
 503, will keep the fire within a confined area. Remove the 
 sod from a piece of ground several feet in length, 3 inches 
 wide at one end, and 12 inches wide at the other end, 
 running this trench in the direction of the prevailing wind. 
 Each side of the trench, pile the sod removed and spread 
 several inches of earth on top, to make banks as shown in 
 Fig. 503. Properly banked, you can stand a coffee-pot over 
 the narrow end of the trench, larger utensils over the center, 
 and still larger utensils over the wide end. Pots may be 
 hung over the fire by fastening a wire above it in the manner 
 shown, then bending pothooks similar to that shown in 
 Fig. 504, out of wire, by which to suspend the pots. 
 
 The customary way of hanging pots over a cooking fire, 
 at camps, is by means of forked sticks suspended from a 
 horizontal pole that is supported in the crotch of a crotched 
 
 241 
 
242 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 504 Fig. 503 
 
 Fig. 503. — Fireplace with Trenched Fire-Pit 
 Fig. 504. — Wire Pothook 
 
 •Iff / . 
 
 Fig. 505. — Fireplace with Circular Fire-Pit 
 
 pole erected at 
 each end of the 
 fire-pit. 
 
 The Fireplace 
 with Circular Fire- 
 Pit, shown in Fig. 
 505, differs from 
 the fireplace just 
 described only in 
 the shape of the 
 fire-pit. A piece 
 of sheet-iron can 
 be placed across 
 the fire-pit to 
 stand utensils on. 
 
 The Fireplace 
 with Above- 
 Ground Fire -Pit. 
 shown in Fig. 506 
 must have its 
 walls built of 
 moist earth or 
 clay, so that the 
 material can be 
 packed together 
 nicely. Tin cans 
 are placed in the 
 walls, three on a 
 side, as shown in 
 
BACK YARD AND CAMP FIREPLACES 
 
 243 
 
 Fig. 507, to sup- 
 port the cross 
 wires that extend 
 from side to side 
 for u t e n s i 1 s to 
 stand upon. Tin 
 cans exposed to 
 a fire will soon 
 
 Crumble to pieces, Fig. 506. — Fireplace with Above Ground Fire-Pit 
 
 therefore several 
 inches of earth 
 should be piled 
 up against the 
 cans inside of the 
 fire-pit to pro- 
 tect them. Figure 
 
 508 suggests how 
 you can use 
 stakes instead of 
 tin cans for sup- 
 porting the cross 
 wires. 
 
 The Camp Oven 
 shown in Figure 
 
 509 is started 
 in the same way 
 as the fireplace 
 in Fig. 506, ex- 
 cept that a pit Fig. 508. — Another Scheme for Utensil Support 
 
 Fig. 507. — Fireplace Utensil Support 
 
244 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 5 or 6 inches deep is hollowed out in addition to building 
 the above-ground fire-walls. Figure 511 shows how the 
 oven shelf is supported on tin cans; also, how a piece of 
 
 Fig. 510. — Sheet-Iron Front Fig. 509. — Camp Oven 
 
 stovepipe is stood erect at the rear end of the fire-pit, for 
 the chimney. 
 
 Pile up earth around the base of the stove-pipe, and 
 build up the sides of the oven with earth moistened enough 
 to make it pack together firmly. At a height of 12 or 14 
 inches above the oven shelf, level off the sides, and across 
 them set a piece of sheet-iron to support the top of the oven. 
 Then cover this top to a depth or 3 or 4 inches with earth. 
 Bank up earth around the base of the oven to make the 
 
BACK YARD AND CAMP FIREPLACES 
 
 245 
 
 Fig. 511. — Oven Fire-Pit, Smoke-Pipe and Shelf 
 
 f3Bfc 
 
 walls solid, and protect the tin cans that support the shelf- 
 wires, with a covering of earth, so that the fire will not 
 burn them through. 
 
 The oven front 
 (Fig. 510) is a 
 piece of sheet- 
 iron with wire 
 loops fastened to 
 the upper edge to 
 provide for hang- 
 ing it from the 
 oven top. Rest 
 a stick across the 
 side walls of the 
 oven, and hang 
 the sheet-iron 
 front from nails 
 driven into it 
 
 To cut down 
 the draft, pile up 
 bricks in front of 
 the fire-pit open- 
 ing, or, lacking 
 bricks, use a. 
 piece of sheet- 
 iron. A damper 
 can be set in the smoke-pipe to help check the draft, or a 
 piece of sheet-iron can be laid across the top of the pipe. 
 A Wash-Boiler Camp Stove. Every time the author 
 
 ■fftp&iz mm® 
 
 Fig. 512. — Wash-Boiler Camp Stove 
 
246 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 sees a discarded wash-boiler in a vacant-lot or scrap heap, 
 he wonders why some boy hasn't seen possibilities in it, 
 and taken it home. You can make a dandy camp-stove 
 like that shown in Fig. 512, out of a boiler, and there are 
 other ways of making good use of one. In addition to the 
 boiler, you will need a section of 4-inch stovepipe, a damper, 
 and some tin cans. 
 
 Cut three openings in the wash boiler bottom, 4 inches in 
 diameter, one for the stove-pipe, the other two for cooking 
 utensils to stand over; and in the end of the boiler farthest 
 from the stove-pipe cut an opening for a fuel doorway. The 
 cutting can be done best with tinsnips,but a can-opener will 
 answer the purpose if you haven't a pair of snips. 
 
 The piece of tin removed from the fuel doorway must be 
 made into a door (Fig. 513) by fastening strips of tin to its 
 
 edges (B and C, 
 
 Fig 514) to make 
 it wide enough to 
 overlap the edges 
 of the doorway. 
 Attach the strips 
 with carpet tacks. 
 Punch holes in 
 the tin to drive the tacks through, and clinch the tack 
 ends. Hang the door with hinges made of pieces of wire 
 (D, Fig. 513), passing the wires through holes punched 
 through the edge of the door and edge of the boiler, and 
 twisting the ends together. A simple catch for the door 
 is made of a screw-hook (JS, Figs. 513 and 515), and a 
 
 P0 
 
 Fig. 513 
 
 Figs. 513-515. 
 
 Fig. 515 Fig. 514 
 
 — Details of Door for Camp Stove 
 
BACK YARD AND CAMP FIREPLACES 
 
 247 
 
 section of a broom-handle (F). Punch a hole through 
 the stove door for the shank of the screw-hook to slip 
 through, close enough to the front edge so when the hook 
 is turned horizontally its tip will catch upon the inside 
 surface of the boiler. Screw the screw-hook into knob F. 
 
 Fig. 516. — Camp-Fire Tripod Spread 
 
 Fig. 517. —Tripod Folded 
 
 Make stove covers out of tin cans, and for 
 
 A Fire Shovel, fasten a piece of tin in the slotted end 
 of a stick. Just such a shovel as this is shown in front of 
 the stove, in Fig. 512. It makes an excellent shovel for 
 removing ashes. 
 
 There are all sorts of patented camp-fire grates and racks, 
 made collapsible to simplify transportation, but 
 
 The Camp-Fire Tripod shown in Fig. 516, made of three 
 
248 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 io-inch iron shelf -brackets bolted together as shown in 
 Fig. 517, is all that a boy could wish for a one-receptacle 
 fireplace. Figure 516 shows the tripod spread, Fig. 517 
 shows it folded for transporting, and the photograph of 
 Fig. 518 shows the stove in use. You can use the tripod 
 fireplace in the backyard or at camp. 
 
Fig. 519.— A Varnish-Can Lantern (See Chapter 23;. 
 
 Fig. 518.— Using the Shelf-Bracket Camp-Stove Tripod (See Chapter 22). 
 
CHAPTER XXIII 
 BACK YARD AND CAMP LAMPS 
 
 Whether you camp out in the woods or in the back yard, 
 you will find the lamps, lanterns, and other light fixtures 
 shown in this chapter well worth having. 
 
 The Varnish-Can Lantern shown in Fig. 519 is a dandy 
 candle lantern. You can procure a varnish-can or oil-can 
 from almost any painter. Perhaps it will be a dirty old can 
 gobbed up inside and out with hardened oil or paint That 
 does not matter in the least. If the can is not too badly 
 dented, accept it. Dried oil or paint can be removed by 
 stuffing the can with paper or excelsior, then taking the 
 can outdoors anxi lighting the contents. It is best to leave 
 the burning until after the lantern lens opening has been 
 cut, so there will be plenty of draft to keep the paper burning. 
 
 Two openings must be cut, a circular opening in the front 
 of the can for the lens, (Fig. 520), and a slot in the top, 
 close to the front, and extending from side to side through 
 which to slide the lens (Fig. 520 and 523). The cutting 
 is most easily done with a can-opener. If mother has the 
 improved kind of can-opener, with a center point that you 
 jab into the can, and a cutter that you adjust to the diam- 
 eter of opening you want to cut, then swing about the 
 
 center, you will not have to describe a circle in pencil to 
 
 249 
 
250 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 locate the circular lens opening. But if mother's can- 
 opener is of the old-fashioned kind, it will require only a 
 
 little more care to 
 make it follow the 
 circumference of a 
 described circle. 
 Ragged edges left 
 by the cutting can 
 be made smooth 
 with a file. The 
 can-opener will 
 only separate the 
 tin, it will not cut 
 any away; there- 
 fore, after cutting 
 the slot in the can 
 top, you must 
 take a pair of 
 pincers and pinch 
 the front raw edge 
 of the tin tight 
 against the can 
 front, because the 
 slot must be wide 
 enough for a piece 
 of glass to slip 
 through. 
 
 A 5-by-7 camera 
 plate is of the 
 
 Fig. 522 
 
 Fig. 520 
 
 FlG. 520. — Detail of Varnish-Can Lantern Shown 
 
 in Fig. 519 
 Figs. 521 and 522. — Detail of Handle 
 
BACK YARD AND CAMP LAMPS 
 
 251 
 
 right size for the lantern lens for a gallon-can. If you 
 cannot get such a plate, you probably can find a piece of 
 glass that can be cut down to these dimensions. With a 
 10-cent glass cutter cutting is easy. You should own one 
 of these, because it will be of frequent use in your workshop. 
 Guides must be 
 provided for the 
 glass to slide be- 
 tween {A, Fig. 523). 
 These are made of 
 strips of tin % inch 
 wide and 7 inches 
 long, cut from a 
 tomato can, and 
 they are bolted in 
 position with stove- 
 bolts H inch long 
 (Z?,Fig.523). Punch 
 the holes for the 
 bolts through the 
 lantern front, and 
 through the guide 
 strips, with a nail 
 or brad-awl. Space 
 the holes so they 
 will come towards 
 the ends of theguide 
 strips, and place 
 
 them at the right Fig. 523. — Detail Showing Inside of Lantern 
 
252 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 distance apart width 
 wise of the can so the 
 glass lens will slide 
 between the stove- 
 bolts. Screw one nut 
 on to each stove- 
 bolt, to come be- 
 tween the lantern- 
 front and guide strip 
 A, then slip the guide strips on to the bolts, and fasten in 
 position with nuts screwed on to the stove-bolts. Stove- 
 
 Fig. 524 
 
 Fig. 525 
 Figs. 524 and 525. — Details of Candle-Holder 
 
 Fig. 527 
 
 Figs. 526 and 527. — Lard- Pail Candle Lantern 
 
 bolt C (Fig. 523) forms a lug for the bottom edge of the 
 glass to rest upon. Place it about 6 3^ inches below the top 
 of the can, so when the glass is in position its top edge will 
 
BACK YARD AND CAMP LAMPS 
 
 253 
 
 Fig. 528. — Tin-Can 
 Candle-Holder 
 
 project far enough 
 above the lantern 
 top to be easily 
 gripped by your 
 fingers, when you 
 open the lantern 
 for lighting or ex- 
 tinguishing the 
 candle. 
 
 The candle- 
 holder is made of 
 a piece of tin cut 
 the shape of D 
 (Fig. 524), with a 
 hole pierced 
 through its center 
 through which to slip the nail F (Fig. 525). Nail F must 
 be driven through the center of a stick E (Figs. 523 and 
 525), cut of the right length to fit widthwise across the 
 inside of the can bottom, and its point must be filed sharp 
 like a tack point, because the candle is to be pushed down 
 upon it. The holder is completed by tacking the tin piece 
 D to strip E, placing a tack each side of nail F, then bending 
 up the four ears at the proper points to make a pocket that 
 will hold a candle of standard size. Fasten strip E in the 
 lantern bottom by driving nails through the can sides into 
 the stick ends. 
 
 The spout of the can forms the lantern chimney, and 
 needs no alteration. For ventilation, punch several holes 
 
 Fig. 529.— Another 
 Tin-Can Candle- 
 Holder 
 
 Fig.530.— How Can 
 Bottom is Cut to 
 Receive Candle 
 
254 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 through the lantern sides, near the bottom, as indicated. 
 A varnish-can has a tin handle, but it would become too 
 hot to hold; and, because it is soldered in place, it would 
 pull off if the solder is heated to the melting point. There- 
 fore, it is best to break 
 off the handle, and sub- 
 stitute a bale like that 
 shown in Fig. 521. This 
 is made of a parcel han- 
 dle (Fig. 522), and a 
 piece of heavy wire 24 
 inches long. Remove 
 the hooked wire of the 
 parcel handle, and in 
 its place slip the long 
 piece of wire. Bend the 
 wire ends to the shape 
 shown in Fig. 521, slip 
 them through holes 
 punched through the lan- 
 tern-top and ends (Fig. 
 520), and bend up and 
 over the standing part 
 of the wire (Fig. 519). 
 
 The first step in mak- 
 ing 
 
 The Lard -Pail Candle 
 „ coo _,. . T Lantern shown in Figs. 
 
 Fig. 532. — Bicycle-Lamp e °. 
 
 Bracket Light- Fixture 526 and 527 Consists in 
 
 Fig. 531. — Candle Light-Fixture 
 
BACK YARD AND CAMP LAMPS 
 
 255 
 
 
 BK<r 
 
 M' 
 
 cutting a hole in one 
 side of the pail mid- 
 way between the top 
 and bottom, of the 
 right diameter so the 
 candle will make a 
 ^ <i tt ,_, snug fit. Then re- 
 
 Fig. 534. — Candle-Holder & 
 
 for Lamp-Post move one end of the 
 
 bale, bend it over to the pail bottom, and 
 fasten the wire in the hole. As the candle 
 burns down, push it up through the hole. 
 
 The Tin-Can Candle-Holder shown in 
 Fig. 528 may be made out of almost any 
 kind of can at hand. Run a piece of wire 
 down through a hole pierced through the 
 can bottom, twist it into the form of a 
 handle, and wrap it with twine. Fill the 
 can with earth to hold the candle upright. 
 Another Tin - Can Candle - Holder is 
 shown in Fig. 529. Cut two slits in the 
 can bottom, one crossing the other (Fig. 
 530), and bend down the four points of tin 
 ■^hiJiW^-s to make an opening of the right size to 
 stick the candle in. Point a stake on the 
 lower end for a support, and tack the can 
 to its side. Drive the stake into the 
 ground wherever you wish to have light. 
 The Candle Light-Fixture in Fig. 531 requires four wooden 
 strips. Near each end of a strip 16 inches long, drive four 
 
 Fig. 533.— Candle 
 Lamp-Post 
 
256 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 nails to form candle-holders. For reflectors, tack two can 
 covers to a strip 15 inches long, with centers the same dis- 
 tance apart as the candle-holder centers, and connect this 
 strip with the candle-holder strip by means of a pair of 
 narrow strips in the manner shown. 
 
 If you want to hang this fixture from a tent ridge-pole, 
 bore a hole through each of the vertical strips near the top, 
 and cut a peg long enough to drive through the holes. Then 
 screw a screw-eye into the ridge-pole, and slip the peg 
 through the holes and screw-eye. 
 
 The Bicycle -Lamp Bracket Light-Fixture shown in Fig. 
 532 is easily set up, by driving a stake into the ground, and 
 fastening the lamp bracket to its top. 
 
 A Candle Lamp-Post like that in Fig. 533 is quickly made. 
 A lard-pail or other tin pail of about that size, and a short 
 pole or tree stump, are required. The first thing to do is 
 to perforate the side of the can, using the point of a nail or 
 a nail-set. The holes can be made in a hit-or-miss fashion, 
 or you can work out a design. You might form the word 
 "welcome" with the perforations as indicated. Make a 
 few vent holes in the can bottom. 
 
 When the can has been perforated, erect the post. Drive 
 four nails through the can cover into the post top, to form 
 the candle-holder (Fig. 534). The can is easily removed 
 from and adjusted to the cover. 
 
 Trench Candles like those that boys have made for 
 soldiers fighting in the European war, are good camp lights 
 (Fig. 535). Take eight or nine strips of newspaper of single- 
 column width (Fig. 536), and roll them tightly upon a pencil 
 
BACK YARD AND CAMP LAMPS 
 
 257 
 
 or small round stick (Fig. 537). Bind the roll with wire 
 (Fig. 538), then drop it into a pan of melted paraffin, and 
 
 Fig. 539 
 
 Fig. 538 
 
 Fig. 535 
 
 Fig. 535-539— Trench Candle and How to Make It 
 
 let it become saturated. A stick with tin fastened around 
 its top to protect the wood (Fig. 539) makes a good trench- 
 candle support. 
 
CHAPTER XXIV 
 A BIKE GARAGE 
 
 No self-respecting boy would leave his bicycle outdoors, 
 exposed to the weather like a neglected piece of farm mach- 
 inery, because it would not be long before it would look 
 like a "bum old bike," and he would be ashamed to be seen 
 riding it; also, because he knows that it would require a 
 complete overhauling and thorough lubrication to put it 
 back into good running order. The fellow who neglects 
 his wheel must sooner or later learn to care for it properly 
 or he will never become qualified to handle machinery. 
 Sometimes it is an effort for a fellow to put away his wheel 
 upstairs or downstairs, after a long ride, which, it would 
 seem, has exhausted every bit of his energy; and sometimes 
 he will foot a short distance rather than take the trouble 
 to get his wheel out from an out-of-the-way place. To 
 have the wheel handy-by would make it of greater useful- 
 ness, and would repay the owner for the time, labor, and 
 expense required to provide an outside shelter. 
 
 A garage like the one shown in Fig. 540, built only large 
 enough to hold the wheel, can be set up quickly. From the 
 working-drawings in Figs. 541 to 547 you will get all of 
 the details necessary for building the shed. For the 
 
 258 
 
A BIKE GARAGE 
 
 259 
 
 Working Material you will need a 2-by-4 8 feet long for 
 the corner posts (A, Fig. 543), 72 lineal feet of 2 -by- 2s 
 for the framework pieces B, C, D, E, F and Goi the floor, 
 
 Fig. 540. — The Completed Bike Garage 
 
 walls, and roof (Figs. 541, 543, and 545), 175 lineal feet of 
 10-inch shiplap for the walls, door, floor, roof, and runway, 
 and 50 lineal feet of 4-inch boards for trimming around 
 the roof, the wall corners, the doorway, and for door battens. 
 It may be that you can get old lumber of different dimen- 
 sions from the above pieces, and it may be that you have 
 
26 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 some pieces on hand which you can run in with new stuff. 
 You can alter the plans in such a way as will best suit your 
 material, bearing in mind of course the dimensions required 
 to accommodate a bicycle. Instead of the shiplap specified 
 
 Fig. 541. — Longitudinal Section 
 
 for the boarding up of the framework, you may prefer to 
 use tongued-and-grooved boards, or for the walls you may 
 prefer drop-siding, which makes a neater finish. You may 
 want to sheath up the framework with plain or matched 
 boards, and then finish with beveled-siding, or with stucco. 
 
A BIKE GARAGE 
 
 261 
 
 .V* 
 
 Fig. 542. — Cross-Section 
 
 These are matters 
 which you will have 
 to decide yourself. 
 A material man will 
 help you to figure 
 out quantities. 
 
 The Floor Frame- 
 work. The tops of 
 the 2 - by - 4 corner 
 posts A must be 
 notched as shown in 
 Fig. 544 to receive 
 the ends of the floor 
 framework pieces B. 
 Having the width 
 and length dimen- 
 sions given you in 
 
 Fi g- 543 > y° u can 
 locate the proper 
 positions for the cor- 
 ner posts A. Dig 
 the post holes 18 
 inches deep. Be cer- 
 tain that the posts 
 line up correctly 
 before you fill in 
 around them. They 
 may look right, yet 
 be enough out of 
 
202 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the way to throw the entire framework out of square. The 
 proper way to do is to fasten pieces B in the notches in 
 the tops of the posts, after the posts have been dropped 
 
 Fig. 543. 
 
 into the holes, then fasten pieces C to their ends, with 
 one nail driven part way in. Test the corners one at 
 a time with a square, and, when you have corrected 
 any error that you may find, nail a temporary diagonal 
 brace across the tops to hold the pieces rigid. When all 
 
 corners are correct, 
 spike all members in 
 place. 
 
 Lay the Floor short- 
 ways of the frame- 
 work. With it in 
 place, build the walls. 
 Make 
 
 The Side Walls in 
 sections like that 
 shown in Fig. 545. 
 Cut the plate D and 
 
 Fig. 544. 
 
 Corner of Foundation 
 
A BIKE GARAGE 
 
 263 
 
 corner uprights E and F, of the dimensions indicated, and 
 place them flat upon the ground; block up the ends and 
 center, if necessary, to make them level. Spike together 
 the ends of these pieces, then nail about four of the side 
 boards to them. Trim off the tops of uprights E and F so 
 top plate G will rest squarely upon them, and spike the top 
 plate in place. Then finish nailing on the remaining wall 
 
 Fig. 545. — Side Wall 
 
 boards. Having completed one wall, turn it over so the 
 framework members will be uppermost, place the frame- 
 work members of the opposite wall upon them, nail on the 
 siding, and you will have the second wall a duplicate of 
 the first, only reversed. 
 
 Erecting The Walls. When the two side walls have been 
 completed, stand them erect upon the shed floor, in their 
 right positions, hold them in position with temporary braces, 
 and spike the floor plates to the floor. Cut end plates H 
 
264 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 and / of the right length to fit between side wall plates G, 
 
 and spike them in place. Then nail on the rear-wall siding. 
 Figure 542, a cross-section taken through the shed at the 
 
 point 0-0 (Fig. 541), 
 shows how 
 
 The Roof is put 
 on in two layers, 
 the upper layer 
 overlapping the 
 edges of the lower 
 layer. Fill in the 
 pieces / between 
 the ends of the lower 
 boards (Fig. 541 
 and 542). 
 
 Figure 546 gives 
 dimensions for 
 
 The Door, and 
 shows how to batten 
 together and brace 
 the boards. Trim 
 up the doorway with 
 a board across the 
 head, and a strip 
 down each jamb. 
 Cut the trimming 
 boards of the right 
 
 widths to leave a M-inch clearance around the door edges. 
 
 Hinge the door on the edge indicated in Fig. 546, and fit 
 
 Fig. 546. — Door 
 
A BIKE GARAGE 
 
 265 
 
 it with a strong lock. A box can be fastened to the inside 
 of the door for 
 
 A Cupboard in which to keep miscellaneous tools and 
 supplies, as shown in Fig. 541, provided you use heavy 
 enough hinges in hanging the door to prevent sagging. 
 
 Make a Wheel-Rack to support the bicycle when it is 
 in the garage (Fig. 541) Make this as shown in Fig. 547. 
 
 Cut the piece of 2-by- 
 4 if of the right length 
 to fit between the side 
 walls of the shed, and 
 nail the blocks N to 
 it at the center 2 
 inches apart. Fasten the rack in the shed at the right height 
 to catch the top of the rear wheel of the bicycle. 
 
 A Runway from the ground to the floor level, built as 
 shown in Figs. 540 and 541, will complete the carpenter 
 work on the garage. 
 
 Paint the Bike Garage two coats of oil paint to protect 
 it from the weather. It will look best if you paint the 
 tr'mming pieces a different color from the body color. 
 
 To Make the Garage Tighter, you can cover the inside 
 of the walls and roof with building paper well-lapped and 
 tacked. 
 
 Fig. 547. — Rack for Rear Wheel 
 
CHAPTER XXV 
 A TOBOGGAN SLIDE 
 
 A frame toboggan-slide is a simple structure for boys 
 to build, but the matter of expense frequently prevents 
 them from undertaking the work, or the idea does not 
 occur to them until after the first snow-storm has arrived, — 
 and any boy who has tried outdoor carpentry in cold weather, 
 with gloves and heavy clothing to hamper the movements 
 of hands and limbs, knows that it cannot be done satisfac- 
 torily. Such conditions often cause the abandonment of 
 the idea of building a slide or a postponment until the 
 following autumn. 
 
 The plans in this chapter will enable you boys to build a 
 small toboggan-slide with little or no expense, and you can 
 put it up in cold weather because there is little carpentry 
 connected with the work, and part of that may be done 
 indoors. Besides, as there are no heavy pieces of lumber 
 to handle, you can tackle the job without assistance. 
 
 Building Material. Figure 548 shows the completed 
 toboggan-slide, and Figs. 549 and 550 show how it is con- 
 structed out of a packing-box, a few wooden strips, and 
 snow. Of course, such a slide as this may be built entirely 
 of snow, but, unless it is placed in the corner of the yard 
 where there will be a high fence on each side of the platform 
 
 266 
 

 K 
 
 
 267 
 
268 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS EOR BOYS 
 
 to protect the coasters, there should be a railing to prevent 
 any one from slipping off the top of the slide and possibly 
 injuring himself. 
 
 A packing-box is used for 
 
 The Platform Base. Get a large packing-box, or, if 
 you cannot find one, take a number of small boxes and 
 
 Fig. 549. — The Completed Platform and Railings 
 
 bind them together with strips. The length of the box, 
 or the length of the combined boxes, should be at least 3 feet, 
 as there should be this much space between the platform 
 railings. 
 
 The Platform Railings are fastened to the ends of the 
 
A TOBOGGAN-SLIDE 
 
 269 
 
 box (Fig. 550). Nail the pair of uprights A and B to each 
 end of the box, then fasten the crosspieces C to their tops. 
 The railing should come at least 30 inches above the finished 
 toboggan-slide platform; and, as the top of the platform 
 may be built up of snow 12 inches or more higher than 
 the top of the box, to make a higher slide, this height must 
 be settled before cutting the 
 railing uprights, in order to get 
 them of the right length. 
 
 Figure 549 shows how 
 
 The Step -Railings are fas- 
 tened in place, and Fig. 551 
 shows how the uprights D are 
 connected and braced. First 
 cut uprights D about 18 inches 
 shorter than uprights A (Fig. 
 549), then cut the board E (Figs 
 549 and 551) about 3 feet 
 longer than the packing-box, 
 and nail it to the edges of up- 
 rights D at their lower ends, 
 placing the uprights the same 
 distance apart as uprights A. 
 Cut the braces F 3 or 4 feet 
 long, and nail their ends securely to board E and uprights D. 
 
 After making this piece of framework, set it about 30 
 inches away from the packing-box platform base, with 
 uprights D directly in line with uprights A (Fig. 549) , and con- 
 nect the uprights with the cross-pieces G and the handrails H. 
 
 Fig. 550. — • How the Platform 
 Railings are Put On 
 
270 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Setting Up the Framework. With the framework of the 
 platform and steps completed, select a good location for 
 your toboggan-slide; then place the framework upon a sled 
 and pull it over to that spot and set it in position. One good 
 thing about this form of framework is its compactness, and 
 
 Fig. 551. — Supports for Step-Railings 
 
 the ease with which it may be taken from one place to 
 another. You may build a toboggan-slide in your own 
 back yard one time; then another time, if you decide that 
 conditions are better in your chum's back yard, all you 
 will have to do will be set the framework upon your sled 
 and haul it over to his yard. 
 
 While you have been making the platform framework, 
 your companions should have busied themselves with 
 
 Collecting Snow for the Slide. The snow is gathered 
 most easily by rolling it into balls, starting with small balls 
 some distance away from the position selected for the 
 toboggan-slide, and gradually working them over toward 
 that spot as you roll them. Each boy may start a ball and 
 roll it until it becomes too heavy for him to manage alone; 
 
271 
 
272 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 then two or more boys should work together, and, when 
 the balls are of the right size, roll them into position. The 
 size of the balls should diminish in the proportion necessary 
 to give the proper slope to the slide. 
 
 Fill in the spaces between the balls with snow, and tamp 
 it down with a stick; then level off the tops. If the snow is 
 too dry to pack well, pour water over the slide as you con- 
 struct it. The more compact you make the slide, the more 
 substantial it will be, and the longer it will last. 
 
 The Platform. Pile upon the packing-box the amount 
 of snow necessary to make the platform of the height 
 desired; then build 
 
 A Set of Steps as shown in Fig. 548. Make the steps 
 broad, and pitch them slightly toward the back. Do not 
 pour water on them, because it will make them slippery. 
 They will wear down, of course, but they can be repaired 
 quickly. If a board is built into the top of each step, they 
 will be more durable. 
 
 The Surface of the Slide should be made slippery by 
 pouring water upon it, but, before this is done, tracks 
 should be formed by running a sled down the slide a few 
 times. Make these tracks wide enough so that sleds of 
 different widths will fit them. It is a good idea, also, to 
 bank up the snow along each side of the slide to form a 
 ledge, so there will be no possibility of a sled running off 
 of the slide in case it leaves its tracks. 
 
 If There is a Scarcity of Snow, much may be saved by 
 filling in a portion of the base of the slide with a barrel or 
 with boxes. The snow placed upon the top of the barrel 
 

 A TOBOGGAN-SLIDE 273 
 
 or boxes will form an arch over them that will make the 
 slide as firm as though it were built entirely of snow. 
 
 A Plank Slide. A couple of planks may be used for the 
 upper portion of the slide, to save snow (Fig. 552). These 
 may be either 10-inch or 12 -inch planks of whatever length 
 you can get. Fasten them together with wooden battens 
 placed about 3 feet apart, as shown in Fig. 553, and nail a 
 
 Fig. 553. — How to Batten Together Planks for Upper Part of Toboggan-Slide 
 
 strip to each edge, as shown, to form a guard with a 3 or 
 4-inch projection. If 10-inch planks are used, they may be 
 placed 2 or 3 inches apart, in order to make the slide that 
 much wider (Fig. 5.53). The width of a sled is greater than 
 that of one plank, so the runners could not possibly run into 
 the opening left between the planks. Nail a board across 
 uprights B of the platform framework (Fig. 552) to support 
 the upper end of the planks. Then build up a snow slide 
 at the end of the planking, as shown in Fig. 552, to make 
 the slide as long as is desired, and embed the end of the planks 
 in the snow. 
 
 These ideas have been worked out in a very simple form, 
 but if any of you want to build 
 
 A More Elaborate Toboggan-Slide, longer, and with a 
 higher platform, you will readily see that its construction 
 
274 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 will be similar. A number of packing-boxes may be fastened 
 together to make the platform as large as is desired, while 
 several lengths of planking may be used for the slide, sup- 
 ported at the ends on snow piers — just as a long bridge is 
 supported upon piers of masonry. If several packing-boxes 
 are fastened together for a large platform, they should be 
 bound with wooden strips. If the top boxes are made of 
 thin wood, a flooring of boards should be nailed across them 
 to distribute the weight of the coasters who are to stand 
 upon them, and thus prevent the possibility of breaking 
 through the boxes. 
 
CHAPTER XXVI 
 A BOB-SLED 
 
 There are two ways of building a bob-sled. One way- 
 is to knock together a pair of coasters out of any sort of 
 material that happens to be at hand, and connect the pair 
 with a plank or board, in the shortest time possible; the 
 other way is to use the best material that you can get, and 
 assemble this so as to produce the most substantial sled 
 you know how to make, regardless of the time the work 
 requires. The first method is all right for a rough-and- 
 ready bob, but the latter method is the one to follow if 
 you want a sled that will serve not only through the winter 
 season of the current year, but for years to come. 
 
 In building the model shown in the photograph of Fig. 
 554, the author worked out every detail with strength and 
 durability uppermost in mind, and if you will carefully 
 follow the working-drawings and instructions your com- 
 pleted bob-sled will be something of which you can be 
 mighty proud. 
 
 The Material Required will not cost a great deal; possibly 
 you have the right sort of stuff at hand for the greater part 
 of the sled. The model in the illustration is upholstered, 
 with a top covering of imitation leather. Upholstering is 
 such an easy thing to do that I would advise you to upholster 
 
 27s 
 
276 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 your bob-sled; however, you can use cheaper material than 
 imitation leather. Oilcloth, burlap, or a strip of carpet will 
 answer the purpose. 
 
 Two boards 10 inches wide and 12 feet long, out of which 
 to cut sled runners, crosspieces, seats and hand-rails; and a 
 piece of 2-by-4 for connecting blocks, will be all of the 
 lumber that you will need. Then, in addition, you will 
 have to have eight corner irons for bracing the sled runners, 
 a 24-inch carriage-bolt 7 inches long with which to pivot 
 the bob-sled seat to the bow sled, a pair of 4-by-4-inch steel 
 hinges for hinging the bob-sled seat to the stern sled, fourteen 
 stove-bolts 1 inch long and eight 2 inches long, for bolting 
 the hinges and hand-rails in position, %-inch and ji^-inch 
 screws, 13^-inch and 2-inch common nails, four pieces of 
 half -oval iron strips for runner shoes, a piece of iron jack- 
 chain 2 feet long with which to check the bow of the rear 
 sled, and four %-inch screw-eyes. For upholstering the 
 bob-sled seat, you must have excelsior, covering material, 
 and tacks. 
 
 Figure 555 shows a detail of the completed sled, with 
 one-half (the bow) drawn in section, and the other half 
 (the stern) drawn in elevation. All parts are lettered on 
 this detail, and correspondingly lettered on the smaller 
 working details (Figs. 556 to 570), to make clear the assem- 
 bling. 
 
 The Sled Runners should be prepared first of all (A, Fig. 
 558). Figure 561 shows a pattern, with the ends ruled off 
 into squares to simplify the laying out of the curved bow 
 and stern. Take a cardboard box-cover, and make similar 
 
f ' 
 
 ( 
 
A BOB-SLED 
 
 277 
 
 patterns for the bow and stern, ruling off the same number 
 of squares, 1 inch square, then locating on the lines separating 
 the squares points corresponding to points at which the curve 
 intersects the lines on the pattern illustrated. With the 
 points located, it will be an easy matter to connect them 
 with a curved line. 
 
 Locate the pair of notches in the top edge, for the connect- 
 ing crosspieces B (Fig. 558), and carefully cut out the 
 
 TOP- COVERING 
 / /UNDER COVERING 
 < / /E XCELSIOR 
 
 Fig. 556 
 
 Fig. 555. — Side View and Longitudinal Section 
 Fig. 556. — Detail of Runner Shoe 
 
 pattern. Splice two pieces of cardboard end to end if you 
 cannot get a long enough piece of single length for the 
 
 HAND-RAIL 
 
 *_1 
 
 Fig. 557. — Plan of Under Side of Bob-Sled Seat 
 
278 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 pattern. With a saw, cut out the ends, sawing to within 
 about y% inch of the line, then finish up to the line with a 
 plane, and sandpaper. Cut the sides of the notches with a 
 saw, and split out the wood between the cuts with a chisel. 
 Cut 
 
 The Connecting Crosspieces B of the length shown in 
 Fig. 560, by the width of the notches, and nail them in 
 place. Then brace the ends of each with the corner irons 
 D (Fig. 559), screwing these to the runners and to the 
 crosspieces, in the positions shown. 
 
 Fig. 559 Fig. 560 
 
 Fig. 558. — Detail of Bow and Stern Sleds 
 Fig. 559. — Cross-Section Fig. 560. — Runner Connecting Crosspieces 
 
 Crosspiece C on the bow sled (Fig. 558) is 
 The Foot-bar. Cut it 18 inches long. The boy who 
 steers the bob-sled rests his feet against the projecting ends 
 
A BOB-SLED 
 
 279 
 
 of the foot-bar. After nailing the bar in place, drive a 
 screw-eye into each end, as shown in Fig. 568. Tie 
 
 The Steering-Line ends to the foot-bar just inside of the 
 runners, then run them over to and up through the screw- 
 eyes, as shown. By this arrangement, the feet of the boy 
 who steers will be kept from slipping off of the foot-bar by 
 the steering-lines. 
 
 r3'i+|fp"3^ 30 ^ 3 :u^ Hl v- i 
 
 -/- 
 
 1 1 1 , 
 
 7 
 
 Z J 
 
 A «*- ^ 
 
 L_ 
 
 r^ ^ 
 
 5^ 
 
 —™«— """' 
 
 Fig. 561 
 Fig. 561. — Pattern for Sled Runners Fig. 562. — Pattern for Sled Seats 
 
 Figure 562 shows a pattern for 
 
 The Sled Seats. The stern end may be left square if 
 you like, but rounding it as shown will give it more style. 
 Nail the seats in place, using long enough nails to clinch 
 upon the under side of the braces. 
 
 With the sleds completed, prepare 
 
28o 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 The Bob -Sled Connecting Seat (F, Fig. 563) of the size 
 shown, then the connecting blocks G, H, I and J (Figs. 
 563, 564 and 565). Make blocks G and H in one piece 
 (Fig. 566), bore a %-inch hole through the piece at the 
 center of its length, for the king-bolt, and rip in half as 
 indicated by dotted lines. Nail block H to the under side 
 of seat F, and block G to the seat of the bow sled. Bore a 
 hole through seat F directly over that in block H. Figures 
 563 and 564 indicate how the king-bolt runs down through 
 
 Fig. 565 
 
 Fig. 564 
 
 Fig. 563. — Detail of Bob-Sled Seat 
 
 Fig. 564. — How Bow Sled is Bolted to Seat 
 
 Fig. 565. — How Stern Sled is Hinged to Seat 
 
 seat F and block H, then through two iron washers, through 
 block G, seat, E, a third washer, and the nut. 
 
 Block i" is beveled upon its side edges to make it fit across 
 the stern seat at the angle shown in Fig. 565. Nail it 
 securely to the seat, then brace it with the block /, beveling 
 the edge of J so it will fit squarely against block /. Block / 
 must be hinged to seat F by means of 4-by-4-inch hinges. 
 Bolt the hinges in place with stove-bolts of the length 
 
A BOB-SLED 
 
 281 
 
 specified. The stern sled is hinged to make it rise and fall 
 independently of the bow sled when the bob-sled runs 
 over uneven ground, or when it has reached the foot of a 
 coasting hill or toboggan-slide. Connect the bow of this 
 sled to the under side of the bob-sled seat, with check-chains 
 (Figs. 554 and 555), driving screw-eyes into crosspiece C 
 and into the under side of seat F, to connect the chains to. 
 
 HOLE 
 
 Fig. 567. — Blocks for 
 
 Connecting Stern Sled 
 
 to Bob-Sled Seat 
 
 Fig. 566. — Blocks for Fig. 568. — How to 
 Connecting Bow Sled to Attach Steering-Line to 
 Bob-Sled Seat Foot-Bar 
 
 Upholstering the Seat. If you upholster the bob-sled 
 seat,you must nail strips K and L (Figs. 569 and 570) to 
 its edges, to hold in the upholstering material. Cut these 
 strips 2 inches wide, and round the outer edge of the top 
 of each, as shown in Fig. 570, to give a rounded edge to the 
 upholstering. Miter the ends of the strips, to make mitered 
 corners. 
 
 Spare neither time nor pains in packing in the excelsior 
 padding, because only with painstaking care, adding here 
 and there in low places, and removing from high places, will 
 you get a good job. Dampen the excelsior to make it pack 
 solidly. When you are satisfied that all is in readiness for 
 
282 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 the covering material, get a piece of ticking or other heavy 
 material, and spread it over the excelsior; then examine 
 the work, and you will be surprised to find low places that 
 you did not notice before. The excelsior must be packed 
 in tightly along the side edges, so that the edges of strips 
 K and L cannot be felt, and along the center to make it 
 higher there than along the edges. With the low places 
 filled out, tack the covering along the remaining sides. Then 
 spread the top covering over this under covering, bring its 
 
 Fig. 569 
 
 Fig. 570 
 
 Fig. 569 and 570. 
 
 Details Showing Strip around Edge of Seat to Hold in 
 Upholstering Material 
 
 edges down over the sides, and tack to the under side of 
 seat board F (Fig. 557). 
 
 In the photograph of Fig. 554 you will see how the edges 
 of the upholstered seat can be improved by the addition of 
 upholstering-tacks. If you use an imitation leather cover- 
 ing, you can buy tacks with heads that match If you use 
 other material, you can buy tacks with large brass heads. 
 Space the tacks about 2 inches apart (Figs. 555 and 557). 
 
 With the upholstering completed, prepare 
 
 The Hand -Rails M (Fig. 557) of the size shown, and 
 round off their edges with a plane to make them easy to 
 grip. Then prepare the cross-pieces N (Fig. 557) 3 inches 
 wide, by the length shown. The hand-rails must be bolted 
 
A BOB-SLED 2S3 
 
 to the crosspieces in the positions indicated in Fig. 557, 
 with the 1 -inch stove-bolts specified in the list of material. 
 Use care in boring the bolt holes, to get them in correspond- 
 ing positions. After bolting the rails to the crosspieces, 
 remove the king-bolt, and the hinge bolts, thus releasing 
 the seat, and screw crosspieces N to the under side of the 
 seat. 
 
 Runner Shoes. Buy half-oval iron strips % inch wide, 
 long enough to turn up and over the bow and stern as shown 
 in Fig. 556, for runner shoes, and have a couple of holes 
 drilled through each, near each end, for screws, for screwing 
 to the under side of the sled runners. 
 
 Painting. With the bob-sled's construction completed, 
 protect the wood with paint. The author suggests that 
 you select red for the color. This and a green upholstering 
 material, such as was used upon the model illustrated, make 
 a mighty striking sled, and if your workmanship is good, 
 you will have a job which will make envious all of the boys 
 in your neighborhood, and all around town, who have not 
 built similar sleds. 
 
CHAPTER XXVII 
 A SNOW-FORT PERISCOPE 
 
 When you defend a snow-fort, or "snow-trench" to be 
 modern, you not only want to keep the enemy's attacking 
 party at a distance by well-a' ed snowballs, but also to 
 escape from being hit by their snowballs. By building the 
 walls of your fort or trench breast high, you need expose 
 only your head and shoulders when throwing, and you can 
 quickly "duck" behind the wall when you see a snowball 
 coming. But the author well remembers how the lads 
 attacking a snow fort used to wait for the defenders' heads to 
 appear — in fact, got to know just when they would appear, 
 — and "soaked" them before there was a chance to get 
 into a throwing position. Probably you have had the same 
 experience. Although this adds excitement to a snow 
 fight, the fun is all on the side of the boys attacking. By 
 the use of periscopes, however, the defenders can have the 
 advantage on their side. 
 
 With a periscope, you know, a soldier sees what is going 
 on outside of the trench, or other fortification, without 
 exposing his head to the enemy's fire. Just so with the 
 home-made snow fort periscope. With its top projecting 
 above the wall of your snow fort, as shown in Fig. 571, 
 you watch the enemy while fully protected by the fort, 
 
 284 
 
Fig. 572. — Front View 
 of Periscope. 
 
 Fig. 571.-While Protected by the Snow Fort, You Watch the Enemy 
 
 Through the Periscope. 
 
A SNOW-FORT PERISCOPE 
 
 and you expose 
 yourself only when 
 you see that no- 
 body is prepared 
 to throw at you. 
 One periscope will 
 serve several boys 
 if one boy acts as 
 observer and di- 
 rects the "fire." 
 
 Figure 571 
 shows a rear view 
 and Fig. 572 a 
 front view of the 
 home-made peri- 
 scope in use, Fig. 
 573 shows a work- 
 ing detail of the 
 completed peri- 
 scope, and Fig. 
 577 shows a ver- 
 tical section. 
 
 Material Re- 
 quired. Boards 
 %-inch thick were 
 used in making 
 the periscope 
 model illustrated, 
 but even thinner 
 
 Fig. 575 
 
 Fig. 57 
 
 Fig. 573.— Complete Periscope. Fig. 574 and 
 575. — Detail of Screened Front Fig. 576. — Handle 
 
286 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 boards than this will 
 do. The lighter the 
 weight is, the easier 
 it will be to handle 
 the periscope. Per- 
 haps you can find a 
 packing-box made 
 of ^-inch boards 
 which you can break 
 up for the purpose. 
 Two mirrors are 
 needed. Those used 
 for the model were 
 bought at 5 cents 
 apiece at a 5-and-io- 
 cent store. They 
 are 5 inches wide 
 and 6 inches long. 
 Get the mirrors be- 
 fore you construct 
 the periscope box, 
 because if they don't 
 measure 5 inches 
 wide and 6 inches 
 long you will have 
 to alter the dimen- 
 sions of the side 
 pieces to suit them. 
 
 Fig. 577. — Vertical Section 
 Fig. 578. — Mirror 
 

 A SNOW-FORT PERISCOPE 
 
 287 
 
 Cutting Out the Parts. After cutting side pieces A, the 
 front and back pieces B 3 and the ends C (Fig. 573), by the 
 patterns of Fig. 579, cut eight narrow strips (D, Fig. 579) 
 for cleats on which to support the edges of the mirrors. 
 
 «-e ar"-H 
 
 r 
 
 • T 
 
 lojco 
 10 
 
 ♦ 
 
 c 
 
 
 '*- 5*-» 
 
 t 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 CO 
 
 c\l 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 i 
 
 B 
 
 Fig. 579. — Patterns for Sides, Front, Back and Ends of Periscope 
 
 These strips may be cut out of cigar-box wood. Fasten 
 the strips with brads to sides A at an angle of 45 degrees, 
 placing a pair at each end, just far enough apart so the 
 mirrors will slip between them, and so the ends will be far 
 enough away from the edges of sides A to allow for the 
 
288 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 thickness of the front, rear, and end boards which are set 
 against them. It is absolutely necessary to place the strips 
 at one end exactly parallel with the pair at the opposite 
 end, so that the reflecting surfaces of the mirrors will be 
 
 parallel with one another, and, 
 also, to place the strips on one 
 board at the same height as 
 those on the other board. 
 Fasten the strips to one board, 
 first, then use the same mea- 
 surements for locating the 
 strips upon the other board. 
 
 To Assemble the Box, first 
 nail sides A to the edges of 
 back B (Fig. 580), then to the 
 edges of front B. Notice that 
 the back piece comes even 
 with the tops of the sides, and 
 that the front piece comes 
 even with the bottoms of the 
 sides. With pieces A and B 
 nailed together, fasten ends C 
 between them. These pieces 
 will hold the mirrors in posi- 
 tion. 
 
 The Openings. The opening in the back of the periscope 
 box is the one that you look into, the one in the front is 
 turned toward the object you wish to view. As the upper 
 mirror will be exposed it must be protected from snowballs 
 
 Fig. 580. — How to Assemble the 
 Periscope Parts 
 
A SNOW-FORT PERISCOPE 289 
 
 by a piece of screen wire tacked over the opening (F, Fig. 
 574). A frame of narrow wooden strips (Fig. 575) tacked 
 over the edges of the wire will hold the wire in place. 
 
 Handles nailed to the lower portion of the box (G, Fig. 
 576) will complete the periscope. 
 
 Paint the Periscope Box white so that it will be invisible 
 from a distance, against the snow background. 
 
PART IV 
 
 Garden Craft 
 
 291 
 
■r-Sash Hot-Bed (See Chapter 28). 
 
 Fig. 711.— First Story in Place. Fig. 712.— Adding the Second Story. 
 
 Fig. 71H. — Third Story. 
 
 Fig. 714.— Ready for the Martins. 
 See Chapter 40.) 
 
CHAPTER XXVIII 
 A HOTBED 
 
 The growing season never arrives early enough for the 
 enthusiastic boy gardener, so he provides himself with a 
 hotbed, by which' means it is possible to have radishes, 
 lettuce, and other early vegetables a month before they 
 can be raised outdoors. Now, a hotbed is such a simple 
 piece of garden equipment to make, and so easily operated, 
 that there is no reason why every boy who goes in for gar- 
 dening should not have one. 
 
 A hotbed is in reality a small greenhouse, heated by 
 fermenting manure. It consists of a pit from 2 to 3 feet 
 deep, rilled with manure to within 6 inches of the ground 
 level, with a 6-inch top dressing of garden soil. The front 
 wall of the frame extends 6 inches above ground, the rear 
 wall 12 inches, the sides slope from the height of the front 
 wall to the height of the rear wall, and the open top is 
 protected by glazed sash. 
 
 The Size to Make the Hotbed will be determined by the 
 size and number of sash at hand. Storm-sash or old window 
 sash will do. Regular hotbed sash can be purchased at a 
 door-and-sash mill, and from dealers handling garden 
 accessories, in size 3 feet wide and 6 feet long. " 
 
 A Single -Sash Hotbed is shown in Fig. 582. If a larger 
 
 293 
 
294 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 bed is wanted, the frame can be made two or three times 
 as wide, and two or three sash used. Figure 581 shows a 
 four-sash hotbed. 
 
 The Framework. Figure 583 shows a longitudinal 
 section of the hotbed frame and pit. Corner posts A of the 
 framework (Fig. 584) are 2 -by -4s, side boards B and end 
 boards E and F (Fig. 584) are cut from i-by-8s, and boards 
 C and G are i-by 6s. Rip a triangular strip from the upper 
 edge of boards B, as shown in Fig. 585, so one end will 
 
 Fig. 582. — Single-Sash Hotbed 
 
 bo 
 
 measure 1% inches wide, the other end 7% inches wide. 
 The framework must be made enough narrower than the 
 sash so the sash will lap over the sides, and 2 or 3 inches 
 longer than the sash to allow for the strip H (Fig. 583), 
 which is nailed across the top as a hinge-strip to screw the 
 sash hinges to. Side pieces B will be of the right length for 
 sash 6 feet long, if cut as shown in Fig. 585. 
 
 To Assemble the Framework nail side boards B and C 
 to corner posts A, then connect the two frames thus formed 
 
A HOTBED 
 
 295 
 
 with boards E, F, and G. Batten the side boards at their 
 centers with pieces D. 
 
 Dig the Hotbed Pit of the right depth so the lower edge 
 of framework boards C, E, and G will come 2 inches below 
 the ground surface. 
 
 Filling the Pit. Procure enough horse manure to fill the 
 pit to a depth of 2 feet (Fig. 583). Pile it up in a heap 
 
 Fig. 583. — • Longitudinal Section of Hotbed Fame and Pit 
 
 beside the hotbed, sprinkle it with water, and allow it to 
 remain exposed to the air for two or three days, so the fer- 
 menting process will get well under way. Then throw the 
 manure into the hotbed pit, and close down the sash. The 
 action of the sun's rays passing through the glass will 
 increase the fermenting, and the temperature within the 
 hotbed will be raised considerably above 100 degrees. 
 Before the top soil is spread over the manure, the temper- 
 ature must be reduced to about 90 degrees, which temper- 
 
296 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 ature must be taken with a thermometer. To reduce the 
 temperature, raise the sash. Make the top dressing 6 inches 
 in depth. Use the best garden soil that you can get. If 
 
 Fig. 585. 
 6 - O" — 
 
 Fig. 584 
 
 Fig. 584. — Detail of Hotbed Frame 
 
 Fig. 585. — Detail of Upper Side Piece of Frame 
 
 your soil is heavy, add a little sand to it. Bank up earth 
 around the outside of the hotbed frame for insulation. 
 
 The temperature of the soil must not be too great, else 
 the plant roots will burn out. This must be regulated care- 
 fully by raising the sash when necessary, to allow excess 
 

 A HOTBED 297 
 
 heat to escape. Raising the sash will also provide the 
 plants with necessary fresh air, but you must use judgment 
 in opening the sash, lest you freeze your plants. Keep the 
 sash closed at night during severe weather, and cover it 
 with pieces of carpet or with straw mats, for additional 
 protection. 
 
 Water the hotbed regularly, after the seeds have sprouted, 
 doing this about mid-day so the leaves will dry off before 
 sundown. 
 
 A Cold-Frame differs from a hotbed only by the omission 
 of the manure heating-agent. Sunlight alone is depended 
 upon for heat. Consequently, the cold-frame can be 
 depended upon only for forcing plants after the severe 
 weather has passed. You can use the hotbed as a cold- 
 frame after the manure has cooled. 
 
CHAPTER XXIX 
 SEED BOXES AND PAPER POTS 
 
 Plants raised from seed started indoors during late 
 winter or early spring can be brought to maturity so many 
 weeks ahead of plants started outdoors when the season 
 is far enough advanced to permit doing so, that it is a prac- 
 
 FiG. 586. — Seed-Flat 
 
 tice well worth while to use seed boxes and paper pots if 
 you haven't built a hotbed. Radishes, lettuce and other 
 early vegetables can be started in, these boxes, and you can 
 raise your tomato plants, and have them ready to set out 
 the minute danger from frost has passed. 
 
 Two or three grocery boxes filled with earth are all that 
 you require for seed boxes, or 
 
SEED BOXES AND PAPER POTS 
 
 299 
 
 Fig. 587. — A Miniature Greenhouse with a Lean-to Roof. 
 
 Seed-Flats— as the green-house man calls them. Most 
 grocery boxes are too deep, but it is a simple thing to cut 
 them down. Four inches is just about right. 
 
 Figure 586 shows a seed-flat. Drill several holes through 
 the box bottom near 
 the center, for drain- 
 holes,and nail blocks 
 to the bottom at the 
 corners for feet, to 
 raise the box enough 
 above the surface it 
 
 is to Stand upon SO a Fig. 588. — The Dotted Lines Indicate Where 
 1 v „~J to Cut the Box Sides. 
 
 tin can be slipped lo ut . 
 
 beneath to catch the water that will run out of the dram- 
 holes. Screw a pair 
 of handles to the 
 box-ends. Give 
 the box two coats 
 of paint inside and 
 out, to preserve the 
 
 wood and fill up 
 Fig 589. —The Cut-down Base Ready for . . 
 
 Glass Roof joints. 
 
300 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Filling. Seeds will germinate in almost any kind of wet 
 soil, but in order to have them develop into sturdy plants, 
 
 the soil must be pre- 
 pared with care. Soil 
 from last summer's 
 garden, enriched with 
 leaf -mold, or pre- 
 pared fertilizer, will 
 be just right. Over 
 
 Fig. 591. — A Greenhouse with a Gable Roof the bottom of the 
 
 box, spread a layer of coarse stone, to insure good drainage. 
 Then fill in the soil over this to a depth of 3 inches. Level 
 off the top surface with a small block of wood, before planting. 
 Plant as directed on the seed packages. With a ruler and 
 nail you can scratch 
 lines in the surface, 
 for planting rows. 
 Of course you can 
 plant the seeds thick- 
 ly for the purpose of 
 germinating them, 
 then transplant them 
 into other boxes as 
 soon as the second 
 true leaf has appear- 
 ed. Keep the soil 
 moist,while the seeds 
 are germinating, but never puddle it, and keep a newspaper 
 over the box until the leaves show above the surface. 
 
 Fig. 592. — The Dotted Lines Indicate Where to 
 Cut the Box Sides 
 
 Fig. 593. — The Box with Sides Cut Down 
 
SEED BOXES AND PAPER POTS 
 
 301 
 
 A novel arrangement for starting seeds indoors is to make 
 
 Miniature Greenhouses like those shown in Figs. 587 
 and 591. Starch boxes, are of about the right size for these. 
 It is better to use small boxes than large ones because it 
 will be easier to put on the glass roofs. 
 
 Figure 587 shows the simpler model — ^ 
 
 A Greenhouse with a Lean -To Roof. Cut the top of the 
 
 Fig. 594. — Put on the Gable Ends Like This 
 
 starch-box ends slanted so that the front edge is about 2 y 2 
 inches high and the rear edge 5 inches high, and cut down 
 the front and back even with the edges of the ends, as 
 indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 588. 
 
 With the cutting done, get a piece of glass large enough 
 to fit over the top and project a trifle over the front and 
 ends. Possibly you can find an unused picture-frame with 
 a glass of the right size, or several camera plates that can 
 be fastened together with adhesive-tape to make a piece 
 large enough to cover the box; if not, a painter will sell 
 you a piece. Hinge the glass with strips of adhesive-tape, 
 (Fig. 587). 
 
302 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 595. — Hinge the Halves of 
 the Glass Roof Like This 
 
 The Greenhouse with a Gable Roof, shown in Fig. 591, 
 looks more like a florist's greenhouse. The starch-box 
 which forms the foundation must be cut down as indicated 
 by dotted lines in Fig. 592, so the remaining depth will be 
 about 2 y 2 inches (Fig. 593). 
 
 With the box thus prepared, 
 cut two end pieces out of thin 
 box boards (A, Fig. 594), and 
 tack these to the box ends. 
 Make the peak of each end 
 piece 8 inches above the bot- 
 tom edge. The box may be 
 stood on end upon the boards 
 for the purpose of marking out 
 the lower portion of end pieces 
 A. When the board ends 
 have been marked out, cut, 
 and tacked to the box ends, 
 procure two pieces of glass of 
 the right size to project over 
 ends A and the sides of the 
 box, as shown in Fig. 591. 
 Join these two pieces (B and 
 C, Fig. 595) at the peak with a 
 strip of adhesive-tape lapped 
 over them (D, Fig. 595). 
 
 Unless the boxes are metal 
 lined, they are likely to leak after you water the planted 
 seed, so it is a good idea to place beneath each a cake-tin 
 
 Fig. 596. — Paper Pot for Seedling 
 Transplantings 
 
 H-2' 
 
 2"-f- 2"-*j 
 
 T 
 
 ■+■ 
 
 4 
 
 I s 
 
 Fig. 597. — Pattern for 
 Paper Pot 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 » 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 
SEED BOXES AND PAPER POTS 
 
 303 
 
 to catch drippings (Fig. 591); also, it is well to attach spool 
 feet at the corners to keep the box bottoms high and dry. 
 
 Paint the Greenhouses with a couple of coats of green 
 paint, or with two coats of white paint and one coat of 
 white enamel. 
 
 Paper Pots are extensively used for seedling transplant- 
 ings (Fig. 596). The seedlings are transplanted from seed- 
 
 Fig. 599. — How 
 to Make Pot out 
 of Box Corners 
 
 Fig. 598. — Pot 
 Made from Card- 
 board Box 
 
 Fig. 600. — How to Cut away 
 the Box Corners 
 
 flats to these earth-filled paper pots, and then, when they 
 are large enough to set outdoors, the pots are planted 
 without disturbing the roots of the seedlings. 
 
 Paper pots can be made of heavy wrapping-paper. Small 
 pots may be 1% inches square, large pots 4 inches square. 
 Figure 597 shows a pattern for a 2-inch pot. Cut along the 
 heavy lines, fold along the dotted lines, and paste the over- 
 lapping surfaces. 
 
3 o 4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Figure 598 shows 
 
 A Pot Made From a Cardboard Box. A box will furnish 
 material for two pots. Cut the box as indicated by dotted 
 lines in Fig. 600, and place the corners together as shown 
 in Fig. 599. Fasten by gluing strips of paper over the 
 
 Fig. 601 Fig. 603 Fig. 602 
 
 Figs. 601-603. — Circular Pots Made from Cereal Carton 
 
 edges, then reinforce the corners by sewing with heavy linen 
 thread. 
 
 Circular Pots can be made from cereal cartons (Figs. 601 
 and 602). One carton will produce two pots. Glue and 
 stitch the cover on to the carton, then cut a pot from each 
 end, as indicated in Fig. 603. 
 
It is necessary to protect transplantings from the sun 
 until they have taken root and are able to stand the 
 
 Fig. 606 
 
 Gig. 604 
 
 Fig. 605 
 
 Figs. 604 to 606. — Three Methods of Shielding Transplantings until they 
 
 have Taken Root. 
 
 heat without wilting, and for early Spring transplanting 
 before the season has become far enough advanced to make 
 frost an impossibility, it is necessary to provide frost protec- 
 tion. The protectors shown upon the following pages have 
 
 3°5 
 
3° 6 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Fig. 607. — Tin 
 Can Shield and 
 Forcer 
 
 proved practical for these purposes, and you will find them 
 easy to make. 
 
 The Paper-Funnel Shield shown in Fig. 604 is so rolled 
 that one side, left open, can be turned away from the sun 
 
 to admit light and air. Make the 
 funnels out of pieces of heavy wrap- 
 ping-paper. 
 
 The Flower-Pot Shield (Fig. 605) 
 is commonly used for short plants, 
 because flower-pots are almost 
 always at hand. 
 
 The Basket Shield shown in Fig. 
 606 is a good type of sun shield 
 because, while it gives protection, 
 it admits lots of light and air. Of 
 the three shields, the paper-funnel 
 shield is the one to use if you have a great many trans- 
 plantings to protect. 
 
 fl^The Tin Can Shield and Forcer shown in Fig. 607 is useful 
 not only to protect transplantings from frost and the sun, 
 but also as a small cold-frame to force a plant's growth in 
 the early Spring while the weather is yet cool. The sun's 
 
 rays passing through 
 the glass top of the 
 forcer will carry heat 
 to the plant in the 
 same way that heat is 
 carried to the plants 
 in the cold-frame. 
 
 Fig. 608 
 
 Fig. 609 
 
 TA, 
 
 Figs. 608 to 609. — Tin Can Shield and 
 Forcer in Use 
 
PLANT SHIELDS AND FORCERS 
 
 3°7 
 
 Tomato cans are of the best size for the tin can forcer, 
 and 4 -by -5 inch camera plates are of the right size for the 
 glass tops. If you cannot get used camera plates, any broken 
 pieces of glass 
 that you can find 
 will do. If the can 
 ends are crimped 
 on, as most cans 
 are now made, cut 
 the ends open with 
 a can opener. 
 Punch a nail-hole 
 in opposite sides of 
 the can near one 
 end, place the glass 
 on the can, pass a 
 a piece of wire over 
 it, and stick the 
 wire ends through 
 the holes; twist the 
 wire ends as shown 
 in Fig. 607, and the 
 wire will hold the 
 glass in place. Nail 
 the side of the can 
 to a stake whittled 
 to a point on its 
 lower end. 
 
 Fig. 610. — A Plant Forcer 
 
 Fig. 611 
 
 \* M 
 
 
 i.V 
 
 "■ — * — 4k"— -*l 
 Fig. 612 
 
 Fig. 611. — Cross-Section of Plant Forcer 
 Fig. 612. — Patterns of Pieces Required 
 
 
3 o8 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Figure 608 shows the forcer set close to the ground; Fig. 
 609 shows it raised for ventilation When the nights are 
 cold, spread heavy paper over the plant, then set the can 
 down over this, for extra protection When the weather 
 warms up, and you wish to shield the plant from the sun, 
 slip a piece of paper under the glass top 
 
 The Plant Forcer in Fig. 610 requires more time to make 
 than the tin-can forcer. It has the advantage of being 
 roomier. The size of glass you obtain will determine the 
 size of the parts. In the model shown, I used a 6 j^-by -Sc- 
 inch camera plate, and the dimensions on the pattern of 
 Fig. 612 are correct for glass of this size. Go to a paint 
 shop and see what you can get in small pieces of glass. 
 Possibly you can get scraps that will not cost much. 
 
 The cross-section (Fig. 611) shows how the pieces go 
 together. Prepare end pieces A and front and back strips 
 B by the patterns (Fig. 612), and nail them together. 
 Then cut back piece C to fit, and nail it to end pieces A. 
 The glass rests upon front strip B, and it is held in place 
 by four nails (£), driven into the edges of the end pieces 
 A so the heads overlap the glass. The screw-eye F in 
 the top edge of piece C helps hold the glass in place. 
 
 When you have completed the forcer, give it a coat of 
 paint. Green is the best color for garden accessories, but 
 if you have another color on hand, make it do. 
 
CHAPTER XXXI 
 FLOWER-BOXES 
 
 Have you ever made flower-boxes to sell? It is an 
 excellent way to earn money in the Spring, for then every- 
 body is planting them, and there is so much demand for 
 boxes of various types that there is not much trouble in 
 making sales. An energetic boy usually can dispose of all 
 of the boxes that he has time to make. 
 
 Boxes of good design and proportions are almost as 
 pleasing to look upon as the plants and vines which they 
 contain. They require more care in the making than the 
 square-cornered grocery-box type, but the work is simple, 
 and you will find a readier sale for them among garden 
 lovers. 
 
 Material for Boxes. Cypress, often spoken of as "the 
 wood eternal" because it is so little subject to decay, is the 
 best flower-box material obtainable. Florists use it for 
 their greenhouse boxes and troughs, it is used in the con- 
 struction of greenhouses, and it is extensively employed 
 in every form of building for parts exposed to moisture. 
 The grain of cypress is exceedingly pretty, especially when 
 the wood is stained with one of the modern wood finishes. 
 
 Finishing. There are several ways to finish the wood 
 of a flower-box. You can use an oil-stain made by mixing 
 
 309 
 
310 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 oil-paint with turpentine or kerosene, or you can buy ready- 
 mixed stain; you can white-enamel the wood or paint it the 
 
 color your customer 
 selects; or, if the 
 wood has a pretty 
 grain, like cypress, 
 you can leave it in 
 its natural color, and 
 finish with a coat of 
 white shellac and an- 
 other of varnish. 
 
 A Window or 
 Porch Box. The 
 long box with taper- 
 ing sides shown in 
 Fig. 613 is of a pleasing design for a window-sill or porch- 
 rail. The cross-section of Fig. 618 shows the pattern 
 for the end pieces (A), and shows the positions for the 
 sides (B), and the bottom (C). Be careful to get the end 
 pieces alike. Lay out one piece accurately, then use 
 it for a pattern for g 
 
 marking out the other 
 piece. With the ends cut 
 out, cut the side pieces and 
 fasten them between the 
 ends. Then cut the bot- 
 tom board to fit between 
 the sides. The length of 
 
 the sides and bottom will Fig. 619. — Three Forms of Feet for Boxes 
 
 Fig. 618. — Cross-Section of Window or Porch 
 Box Shown in Fig. 613 
 
Fig. 613. 
 Window or Porch box. 
 
 Fig. 615.— Plant-Stand. § 
 
FLOWER-BOXES 
 
 3ii 
 
 be determined by the size of box wanted. Cut the sides 
 7% inches wide. The edges of the bottom board must be 
 beveled to make them fit squarely against the side pieces. 
 If you will mark out the positions for the side pieces upon 
 the end pieces, it will simplify the matter of assembling. 
 Nail the pieces to- 
 gether with finish- 
 ing-nails and set 
 the nail-heads be- 
 low the surface. 
 
 Feet. It not only 
 adds to the appear- 
 ance of a flower-box 
 to provide it with 
 feet, but makes pro- 
 vision for a circula- 
 tion of air beneath 
 it, which will keep 
 dry the bottom, and 
 the railing or win- 
 dow-sill upon which 
 the box stands. The 
 screw-eye foot (A, 
 Fig. 619) answers 
 very well; foot B 
 is a rubber-tipped base knob such as is used to screw 
 into baseboards for doors to strike against; and foot C 
 is a spool attached by means of a long screw run 
 through its center hole. If the box is to be placed upon 
 
 Fig. 620. — Detail Showing Assembling of 
 Plant-Stand Shown in Fig. 615 
 
3i2 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 a ledge too narrow for all four feet to stand upon, the 
 
 feet must be omitted. 
 
 A Plant -Tub (Fig. 614). This short box with tapering 
 
 sides owes its substantial appearance to the wide band around 
 
 its top. It is of a good de- 
 sign for a box built for the 
 top of a balustrade post. 
 No dimensions have been 
 shown for this box, because 
 you will want to make it of 
 the right size to fit the post 
 it is to stand upon. Eight 
 inches is deep enough. To 
 get the right! taper for the 
 sides, make the bottom edge 
 of each side piece 2 inches 
 shorter than the top edge. 
 Mark out one side, saw it 
 out, and use it as a pattern 
 for marking 
 
 Fig. 621. — Corner Hook and Chain 
 for Hanging-Box Shown in Fig. 616 
 
 the ends of the other side pieces. Lap the sides 
 over the end pieces. When the sides and ends 
 have been nailed together, cut a bottom board 
 to fit between. By fastening this bottom board 
 about 3^2 mcn above the bottom edges, there 
 will be a good chance for water to drain from 
 the box. 
 
 Holes may be bored through the bottom, to 
 facilitate drainage. Pieces of broken flower- 
 
 Fig. 622. — How 
 Chains Fasten to 
 
 a Hook Screwed 
 
 into Ceiling 
 
FLOWER-BOXES 
 
 313 
 
 pot placed over the holes will keep the earth from washing out. 
 The Plant-Stand shown in Fig. 615 was made 29 inches 
 high, or table height. If the one you build is to stand in 
 front of a window, make it of about the same height as the 
 window-sill. The detail drawing (Fig. 620) shows how the 
 plant-stand is built with a grocery-box as a foundation. 
 The pairs of strips A and B are nailed together to form the 
 legs. Cut strips A 1 y 2 inches wide, strips B 2 inches wide. 
 The tops of the legs are finished off with the blocks C, which 
 are cut of the right size to project about V 2 inch over the 
 sides of the legs; and the top edges of the box are finished 
 with strips cut of the 
 right length to fit 
 
 between the corner 
 blocks, and of the 
 right width to pro- 
 ject 3^2 inch over the 
 box sides. If the box 
 used for the stand is g^dS^ 
 12 inches wide or 
 narrower, the lower shelf can be a single board, cut the 
 exact width and length to fit in the corners formed by the 
 leg strips. The shelf will brace the lower ends of the legs. 
 Conceal the edge of the box-bottom boards with a narrow 
 strip of wood cut to fit between the corner strips. 
 
 The Hanging -Box shown in Fig. 616 is another example 
 
 of how a grocery box can be used advantageously in the 
 
 construction of plant boxes. The hanging-box is made 
 
 ' by nailing a band of wooden strips around the top edge of 
 
314 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHNICS FOR BOYS 
 
 a box, even with the top, and another band around the 
 bottom, then fitting strips between the bands, at the box 
 corners. Make the bottom band project about 3^ inch 
 below the box bottom. This band conceals the edges of 
 the box-bottom boards, and the corner strips cover the 
 edges of the box-side boards. Cut the upper and lower 
 band strips out of boards %-inch thick, making the lower 
 strips 2}^ inches wide, and the upper strips 3 inches wide. 
 Cut the corner strips out of boards ^-inch thick, making 
 one strip of each pair Y% inch narrower than the other, to 
 allow for the lapping edges. Nail the corner strips together, 
 
 then nail them to 
 the box. 
 
 Suspend the Box 
 by chains attached 
 to screw-hooks 
 screwed into the top 
 edge of the box at 
 the corners (Fig. 
 621), and hooked 
 onto a screw -hook 
 screwed into the 
 porch-ceiling or wherever the box is to hang (Fig. 622). Buy 
 hooks 3 inches in length, and No. 12 Iron jack-chain. The 
 bright iron hooks and chain may be enameled with screen- 
 wire enamel to prevent rusting. 
 
 Metal Liners. As a grocery box is loosely made, one 
 used for a hanging-box will leak more or less after each 
 watering. If the position in which the box is to hang 
 
 Fig. 624. — Cross- Section of Box Fitted with 
 Metal Liner and Faucet for Drainage 
 
FLOWER-BOXES 
 
 3i5 
 
 makes this objectionable, a galvanized-iron liner like that 
 shown in Fig. 623 should be provided. You can get a liner 
 made at almost any hardware store. The liner should be 
 just a trifle smaller than the box so that it will drop in 
 without forcing, and the upper edge should be bent over, 
 as shown, to form a projecting rim all around that will rest 
 upon the top edge of the box (Fig. 624). 
 
 When a box is provided with a metal liner, care must be 
 taken not to pour too much water upon the soil at one time, 
 else the 
 
 Surplus Water Will Be- 
 come Stagnant in the bot- 
 tom of the box, and prob- 
 ably result in loss of the 
 plants. The nursery man 
 will tell you that the proper 
 way to do is to pour on 
 just enough water so the 
 top soil will be damp, not 
 puddly. 
 
 A Satisfactory Drain, for 
 taking care of the surplus 
 water in the bottom of a metal-lined flower-box, can be 
 provided as shown in Fig. 624. Get a 34-inch brass air-cock 
 and get a threaded piece of brass tubing to fit it. Cut the 
 tubing of the right length to run through the box bottom, 
 and solder it in a hole cut through the liner. Be careful 
 to get the hole in the box bottom directly under the hole in 
 the liner. 
 
 Fig. 625. — Side View of Hanging- 
 Basket Shown in Fig. 617 
 
316 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Before Planting Metal-Lined Boxes, cover the bottom to 
 a depth of i inch or so with coarse gravel or small pieces of 
 crushed stone. Surplus water percolating through the 
 stones will be freed of earth particles, and when drawn off 
 through the faucet will be clear. This will prevent stoppage. 
 The Hanging -Basket shown in Fig. 617 was designed 
 for a potted fern. Omit the chain hangers, and screw four 
 base-knobs into the bottom for feet, and you will have an 
 excellent low pedestal box. Lengthen two opposite sides, 
 
 and you will have a box 
 suitable for a porch-rail or 
 window. If plants are to 
 be placed in the hanging- 
 basket, pedestal box, or 
 window box, without a pot, 
 a moss lining must be pro- 
 vided to keep earth from 
 falling through the spaces 
 between the side sticks. 
 The moss can be procured 
 from a florist if you cannot 
 find it in the woods. 
 By the side view of Fig. 625, and the top view of Fig. 
 626, you will see that the sides of the hanging-basket are 
 built log-cabin fashion. Figure 627 shows a pattern for the 
 bottom, which, as you will see, is hexagonal-shaped. Cut 
 the piece out of a board f/i inch thick. Probably you know 
 how to mark out an inscribed hexagon by describing a circle, 
 then laying off the radius dimension six times upon the cir- 
 
 Fig. 626. — - Top View of Hanging- 
 Basket Shown in Fig. 617 
 
FLOWER-BOXES 
 
 3i7 
 
 cumference, and connecting the points with straight lines. 
 Figure 627 shows the method. When you have marked 
 out the piece, saw it out a trifle outside of the lines, and 
 finish up the edges with a plane. 
 
 At each corner of the bottom piece, bore a hole through 
 which to run the wire connecting rods (Figs. 627 and 630). 
 Make the holes V^ inch or ^ 
 inch in diameter, and locate 
 them exactly where shown. 
 
 The side sticks, of which 
 you will need thirty-five, 
 should be of the dimensions 
 given in Fig. 628. If you 
 can get several strips of a 
 square moulding, you will 
 
 , . •,, Fig. 627. — Pattern of 
 
 Only have tO Saw them up Bottom for Hanging-Basket 
 
 TI 
 
 kjl jj 5g — -^HJH 
 
 •ML. 
 
 i Z3-J I 
 ©i': — —4 
 
 into pieces of the right length, 
 smooth up the ends and 
 edges, and bore holes for the 
 connecting rods. Though of 
 slightly different proportions 
 than those given, parting- 
 strips, used for window- 
 frames, will serve the pur- 
 pose nicely. You can get 
 them at any planing-mill. 
 If you make a number of 
 these boxes, it will pay you to buy these stock strips, or 
 have strips ripped up and surfaced. With the strips care- 
 
 Fig 628 
 
 Fig. 630 
 
 Fig. 628. — Pattern of Side 
 Sticks of Hanging-Basket 
 
 Fig. 629 
 
 Fig. 629 and 630. — Details of 
 Corner Connecting Rods 
 
318 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 fully marked out upon a board, there is no trick to ripping 
 out enough for one or two boxes. It is best to rip long 
 strips, then cut these into short lengths. 
 
 The positions for the holes are indicated in. Fig. 628. 
 Upon the care with which these holes, and the holes near the 
 corners of the bottom board, are bored, depends the nicety 
 with which the box fits together. Make a marker out of a 
 strip of cardboard, and use this for locating each pair of 
 holes. In boring the holes, be careful to bore them straight. 
 
 Cut the six corner connecting rods out of No. 8 galvanized 
 wire, of the length shown in Fig. 629. Bend one end of 
 each rod into an eye. Slip a rod through each of the corner 
 holes in the bottom board, then slip the side sticks over the 
 wires, piling them log-cabin fashion. When six sticks have 
 been stacked up on each of the six sides, bend over the upper 
 end of each rod into an eye, thus binding all sticks close 
 together. Attach chain hangers to four of the six rod ends. 
 Number 1 2 iron jack-chain is the right kind to buy. 
 
CHAPTER XXXII 
 GARDEN ACCESSORIES 
 
 Lacking a sprinkling-can, one of the best substitutes 
 the author knows of is a tin can with perforated bottom, 
 
 Fig. 631. — Tin Can Garden Sprinkler 
 
 and a stick handle fastened to the side (Fig. 631). For 
 some purposes 
 
 3!9 
 
3 2o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 A Tin Can Sprinkler like this is handier than a regular 
 sprinkling-can. Because it is so simple to make, every 
 gardener might own several. The number, size, and 
 
 Fig. 633 Fig. 632 
 Figs. 632 and 633. — 
 Dibbles 
 
 Fig. 634. — Using a Planting Trencher 
 Fig. 635. — Detail of Trencher 
 
 location of the perforations can be regulated to suit the 
 kind of spray wanted. Use the point of a nail or awl 
 for making holes. Drive nails through the can into the 
 stick handle. 
 
GARDEN ACCESSORIES 
 
 321 
 
 Many gardeners prefer. 
 
 A Dibble to a hoe or rake, for making holes for large seeds, 
 for planting bulbs, and for transplanting seedlings. Figure 
 632 shows one easily made. Whittle a stick handle like 
 that shown, and drive a 16-penny nail (a nail 33^ inches 
 long) through it near the end. This is a good form of dibble 
 for seed planting. 
 
 An Umbrella-Handle 
 Dibble like that shown 
 in Fig. 633 is excellent 
 for making holes for 
 bulbs and transplant- 
 ings. Cut off about 
 one-half of the length 
 of the rod. 
 
 For making trenches 
 preparatory to planting 
 rows of seed, or trans- 
 planting, 
 
 A Planting Trencher 
 like that shown in Fig. 
 634 is handy. This 
 requires the runner A 
 (Fig. 635), 16 inches 
 long, the stick handle 
 B, 3 feet long, and the pair of braces C, by which the handle 
 is fastened to the runner. With this little tool you can 
 make trenches quickly. 
 
 A Seed Basket, made of a fruit basket supported upon 
 
 Fig. 636.— Seed Basket 
 
 Figs. 637 and 
 638. — Garden 
 Marker 
 
Fig. 639. — How to 
 Put Up Strings for 
 Vines 
 
 Fig. 640. — Use Clothespins 
 with which to Pin Vine 
 Strings to the Ground 
 
 Fig. 641. — 
 Tomato- Racks 
 
 322 
 
GARDEN ACCESSORIES 
 
 323 
 
 the rod of an umbrella as shown in Fig. 636, holds the 
 seed packages within convenient reach for planting. 
 Punch a hole through the basket bottom for the rod to 
 run through, and tie the basket handle to the umbrella rod 
 and handle. 
 
 Garden Markers. Clothespins are useful for pinning 
 the names of seeds planted, to the tops of stakes used for 
 garden markers (Fig. 
 
 637). Cut the stake 
 top thin enough for 
 the clothespin to slip 
 over. Tear the bot- 
 tom out of the seed 
 envelope, slip the 
 envelope over the 
 stake, and slip one 
 prong of a clothespin 
 down over the stake 
 top (Fig. 638). 
 
 Figure 639 shows 
 
 How to Put Up 
 Strings for Vines 
 planted alongafence. 
 Instead of running a separate string for each vine, the 
 method illustrated, which is a saver of time, consists in 
 starting where the first vine is planted, and tying the end 
 of the string to a nail driven into the fence top directly over 
 the vine, then running the string down to and tying to a 
 stake driven into the ground beside the vine, crossing over 
 
 Fig. 642 Fig. 644 
 
 Figs. 642-644.— Details of Folding Tomato-Rack 
 
324 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 to and tying to a stake driven into the ground beside the 
 next vine, running the string up to and over a nail in the 
 fence top directly above the vine, over to a nail in the fence 
 top directly above the next vine, down to a stake driven 
 close to that vine, and continuing in this manner until a 
 string has been provided for each vine. 
 
 Figure 640 shows how clothespins can be used for pinning 
 down the strings to the ground. By using these it is not 
 necessary to tie the strings. 
 
 If you will make your 
 
 Tomato-Racks so they can be folded up for storing during 
 the winter season, they will last indefinitely, and in the 
 long run you will be repaid for the time you spend now in 
 making them. Figure 641 shows a row of folding racks. 
 Use laths for the vertical and cross strips A and B (Fig. 
 642), and buy j^-inch stove-bolts for fastening them together. 
 Bore holes through the strips near the ends, for the bolts 
 to slip through (Fig. 643), and drive a double-pointed tack 
 into the ends of crosspiece B, and another into the side edge 
 of vertical pieces A. Point the lower end of strips A so 
 they will push into the ground with little resistance. 
 
 Figure 641 shows the racks in position, with string braces 
 tied to the double-pointed tacks. Additional strings can 
 be fastened to the racks if found necessary. 
 
CHAPTER XXXIII 
 
 RACKS AND TRAYS FOR 
 CANNING TIME 
 
 Probably you do not know anything about the canning 
 and drying of vegetables, but mother does, and you can 
 help her to the extent of making the necessary racks and 
 trays. 
 
 For the cold-pack method of canning, the usual home- 
 made equipment for sterilizing fruits and vegetables is a 
 wash-boiler fitted with a wooden rack on which to stand 
 the filled jars (Figs. 645 and 646). Figure 647 shows a 
 detail of 
 
 A Wash-Boiler Rack made of laths. Dimensions for 
 the strips are not given on the diagram because wash-boilers 
 vary in size, and you must make the rack to fit the bottom 
 of the wash-boiler that it is to be used in. Make the rack 
 enough shorter and narrower than the boiler so it will fit 
 loosely in it. Cut strips A of equal length, also strips B. 
 Cross strip A with strips B, spacing them at equal dis- 
 tances apart, not to exceed 2 inches. Nail with nails long 
 enough to go through the over-lapping strips and bend over. 
 Cut side strips C and nail them to strips A at the ends. 
 Then trim off the ends of the strips as indicated, to make 
 the rack fit the round ends of the wash-boiler. 
 
 For drying corn and sliced vegetables, 
 
 32s 
 
326 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 A Rack Suspended Over a Stove (Fig. 648) is much used. 
 The screened tray is easy to make. For a medium-sized 
 gas-range, a tray of the dimensions shown in Fig. 649 is 
 about right for use over a single burner Lap the ends of 
 the side strips over the ends of the end strips. Tack screen 
 wire to the bottom edges of the tray. One screw-hook in 
 
 Fig. 646 
 
 Fig. 645 
 Figs. 645 and 646. — Wash-Boiler 
 Rack for Cold-Pack Method of 
 Canning 
 
 Fig. 647. — Detail of Rack for 
 Wash- Boiler 
 
 the ceiling directly over the center of the gas-burner is 
 sufficient to support the swinging tray, provided you screw 
 the hook into one of the ceiling joists, and of course you must 
 do that to fasten the hook securely. Screw a pair of screw- 
 eyes into each end of the tray, and attach a chain to each 
 screw-eye long enough to extend to the ceiling hook when 
 the tray is suspended 12 inches or so above the burner. 
 
 A Drying-Tray to Stand Upon a Stove must have metal 
 legs. Figure 650 shows a tray with shelf-bracket legs, and 
 Fig. 651 shows how to attach these. 
 
 The sun-drying method of preserving vegetables is 
 extensively used. Figure 652 shows 
 
 
RACKS AND TRAYS FOR CANNING TIME 327 
 
 A Sun Dryer, consisting of two screened frames, one 
 inverted over the other (Fig. 654), supported on a rack 
 (Fig. 656). The vegetables to be dried are spread out 
 upon the screen wire of the lower frame, and the upper frame 
 covers them and protects them from flying insects. Crawl- 
 ing insects can be kept away by standing the legs of the 
 dryer-rack in tin cans filled with water (F, Fig. 653). 
 
 Fig. 648. — Suspended Tray for 
 Drying Vegetables 
 
 Fig. 649. — Detail of 
 Drying-Tray 
 
 Make the pair of screened frames, first, then the rack of 
 the right size to accommodate the frames. Figure 655 
 shows the dimensions of side strips A and end strips B, used 
 for the frames of the author's dryer shown in Fig. 652; 
 and Fig. 657 gives the correct dimensions for legs strips C, 
 and connecting crosspieces D and E of the rack. If you 
 make the frames of different proportions than these, you can 
 
328 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 figure out the length dimensions for the crosspieces of the 
 rack after the frames have been put together. 
 
 Figures 653 and 656 show how the rack members are 
 assembled. Set crosspieces D 4 inches below the tops of 
 
 Fig. 651. — How the Shelf-Bracket Legs are Fastened on 
 
 legs C, so the upper screened frame will come even with 
 the tops of the legs. The frames rest upon crosspieces D, 
 and crosspieces E and the upper ends of legs C hold the 
 frames in place. 
 
Before covering the frames with screen- wire, give them 
 
 and the rack a coat of green paint. Galvanized screen- wire 
 
 : is better than Japanned wire for covering the frames. Two 
 
 yards of wire 24 inches wide will be required. Stretch the 
 
 RACKS AND TRAYS FOR CANNING TIME 
 
 329 
 
 Fig. 657 
 30" 
 
 Fig. 655 
 
 IX 
 
 25g- 
 
 D 
 
 38£" 
 
 if 
 
 K 
 
 
 - 36" 
 
 
 H 
 
 a 
 
 
 A. 
 
 
 I 
 
 
 ^A 
 
 H 
 
 23£" 
 
 
 
 2 1 
 
 B 
 
 
 B^^ji 
 
 
 
 ^-B 
 
 i 
 
 Fig. 654 
 
 Fig. 656 
 
 Fig. 653 
 
 Fig. 653. — Cross-Section of Sun Dryer Shown in Fig. 652. 
 Fig. 654. — Screened Frames Fig. 656. — Dryer Rack 
 Fig. 655. — Frame Strips Fig. 657. — Rack Strips 
 
 wire tight over the frames, and after tacking it in place, 
 cover its edges with the narrow moulding used upon window 
 and door screens. Fasten this moulding with brads. 
 
 Instead of screening the upper frame, you can glaze it. 
 
33 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Glass intensifies the sun's heat, and thus speeds up the 
 drying process. But if you do glaze the upper sash, cut 
 openings in the side edges of the frames to permit a free 
 circulation of air over the vegetables. 
 
 Besides serving as a dryer, this apparatus can be used 
 in the Fall as 
 A Rack for Ripening Tomatoes that have been picked green 
 to save them from frost. 
 
 Making Racks and Trays to Sell. If you have time and 
 want to earn money, the author suggests that you canvas 
 among gardeners of your community for orders for dryers. 
 If you own a wagon, you can take your dryer with you as a 
 sample; or, if you do not want to bother doing this, you can 
 make a miniature model of a size handy to carry under 
 your arm. 
 

 Fig. 658. — A Concrete Lawn-Roller (See Chapter 34). 
 
CHAPTER XXXIV 
 A LAWN ROLLER 
 
 If you will take the time to make a concrete lawn-roller 
 like that shown in the photograph of Fig. 658, you will find 
 no end of employment next spring, and in following springs. 
 Owners of well-kept lawns have them gone over to roll out 
 uneven places, caused by the action of frost, and newly 
 planted lawns must be rolled, also, to make the surface level 
 and compact. If you will happen round at the right time, 
 you will probably be able to land the jobs. Take your chum 
 into partnership. You will be able to cover twice as much 
 territory in soliciting work, and you will need his additional 
 fraction of horse-power to add to your own to operate the 
 roller. 
 
 The Material Required will be as follows: One 2-foot 
 length of 12-inch tile sewer-pipe {A, Fig. 659), one piece of 
 1 34-inch iron pipe 26 inches long (B), two pieces of 24-inch 
 iron pipe 27 3^2 inches long (C), two pieces of %-inch. iron 
 pipe 4 feet 6 inches long (D), two go-degree elbows (E), two 
 street elbows (F) and two unions for %-inch pipe (G). Pipe is 
 known by its inside diameter. Three-quarter-inch pipe, 
 is % inch in diameter, inside, 1 inch in diameter, out- 
 side. The ends of lengths of pipe C and D must be threaded. 
 
 331 
 
332 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 You can get them cut and threaded at any plumbing shop, 
 and you can procure the fittings there. 
 
 For the concrete mixture for the tile pipe, you will require 
 about one wheelbarrow of crushed stone (3^-inch or %-inch), 
 three-quarters of a wheelbarrow of torpedo sand, and one- 
 quarter sack of Portland cement. You can procure this 
 material from a builder in your vicinity. 
 
 „rD 
 
 ■£ 
 
 B 
 
 4—90° ELBOW 
 
 Union - 
 
 'Street- ELbow 
 Fig. 659. — Detail of Parts Required for Lawn-Roller 
 
 In addition to the above, you will need some boards out 
 of which to make centers for centering iron pipe B within 
 tile pipe A, and for making a concrete mixing-platform. 
 
 Figure 659 shows a detail of all of the parts required for 
 the roller. Figure 660 shows the tile pipe with the pipe 
 axle-casing centered ready for pouring the concrete, and 
 Fig. 661 shows 
 
 The Centering Platform. Making the platform is the 
 first operation. Fasten together several boards with the 
 pair of battens H, placing the battens so they will fit close 
 against the sides of the small end of the tile pipe when the 
 pipe is stood upon the boards. Nail the pair of blocks / 
 
A LAWN ROLLER 
 
 333 
 
 to the platform so they will fit close against the sides of the 
 pipe, also. 
 
 The next thing to do is 
 
 To Locate the Center for the Axle, upon the platform, 
 between battens H and blocks /. This must be the exact 
 center, else your roller axle will be off center and your roller 
 will not run evenly. The center can be located by a pair 
 of dividers, ruler, or piece of string. When you are abso- 
 lutely certain that you have located the center correctly, 
 cut a hole 1 34-inch in diameter for the end of iron pipe 
 B (Fig. 664) to fit in. If you haven't an expansive-bit, 
 bore several small holes 
 and trim up to the 
 larger diameter with a 
 chisel. 
 
 The Center of the 
 Flange End of the tile 
 pipe is located by 
 means of the crossed 
 strips / and K (Fig. 
 660). Cut these strips 
 to fit inside of the tile 
 pipe at the center of 
 the end, of the right 
 length to rest upon 
 the inside shoulder of 
 the flange. Cut a 
 i>4-inch hole, through the exact center of each strip, then 
 halve the' two pieces together in the manner shown in Figs. 
 662 and 663. 
 
 A^Ii 
 
 Fig. 660. — Tile Pipe with Pipe Axle-Casing 
 Centered Ready for Pouring the Concrete 
 
334 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 With the tile pipe placed in position, and the iron pipe 
 axle-casing B fitted in the centering holes, all will be ready 
 for pouring the concrete. 
 
 The Concrete Mixture should be made in the proportions 
 of i part cement, 3 parts sand, and 4 parts stone. You can 
 use a pail for measuring. Mix the sand and cement together, 
 first, by shoveling the two over and over. Then add the 
 stone and mix thoroughly, then add enough water to make 
 a fairly sloppy mixture that will pour readily. 
 
 Pouring the Concrete. Pour the concrete mixture into 
 the tile pipe, be- Fig. 663 Fig. 664 
 
 tween strips J and 
 K, and with a 
 stick tamp the ma- 
 terial down solid. 
 Be careful to have 
 all spaces between 
 the stone particles 
 filled; also to get 
 the sand and 
 cement between 
 the stone and the Fig. 661 
 sides of the tile . m 
 pipe. Fill the tile 
 pipe to the level of 
 
 the under side of Fig. 661. — Detail of Centering Platform 
 
 Figs. 662 and 663. — Detail of End Strips for Cen- 
 Stnps J and K. tering Axle-Casing End 
 
 mi t •*.• * c* j. F IG - 664. — Pipe Axle-Casing 
 
 The Initial Set 
 of cement usually occurs within an hour's time after pour- 
 
 1 f==htf=\ 
 
 Fig. 662 
 
 J 
 
A LAWN ROLLER 335 
 
 ing; but allow the concrete- filled pipe to stand for several 
 days before disturbing it. 
 
 Removing the Tile Pipe. The tile pipe may be removed 
 by cracking it off, but the author suggests that you leave 
 it on, as it makes the roller larger in diameter, and will give 
 it a smooth surface that will last a long time. When the 
 tile does crack, you can break it off. The flange must be 
 removed, of course, as soon as you are ready to complete 
 the roller. This can be broken off, and the end chipped off 
 level with the concrete, by the careful use of a cold-chisel. 
 
 The Iron Pipe Handle Frame is shown in detail in Fig. 
 659. In this detail you will find the relative positions for 
 the pieces of pipe, and for the fittings included in the material 
 list. Screw elbows E onto the ends of one of the pieces 
 of pipe C; slip the other length of pipe C through pipe B, 
 and screw street elbows F onto its ends. Screw pieces of 
 pipe D into elbows £, and screw unions G onto their ends 
 and onto elbows F. 
 
 Paint the Handle Frame to keep the iron pipe from 
 rusting. 
 
CHAPTER XXXV 
 BIRD HOUSES 
 
 Nature provided our native birds to keep the proper 
 balance in insect life, but, because we have neglected to 
 afford necessary protection, the birds have decreased and 
 insects have increased to an alarming extent. It is our 
 patriotic duty, therefore, to work for a re-establishment of 
 nature's balance, and one way to aid in bringing this about 
 is to give the birds all possible protection during the nesting 
 season, by providing houses for those that nest in houses, 
 and by making war upon bird enemies. 
 
 Bird-House Campaigns. The bird-house campaign has 
 developed into a national movement, so much so, in fact, 
 that the school which cannot boast of bird-house building 
 activities is reckoned unprogressive. In a recent campaign 
 in Pittsburgh, the boys of the public schools built more than 
 6,000 bird houses. An exhibit of some of the houses is 
 shown in the photograph of Fig. 665. It is estimated that 
 more than 15,000 houses were made in one year by the boys 
 of Allegheny County, Pennsylvania; in St. Paul, nearly 
 4,000 houses were entered in a contest held by the Board of 
 Education; in Seattle, enough houses were disposed of by 
 
 336 
 
p a 
 
 o 
 
 w 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 a 
 
 £ 
 
 
 
 t> 
 
 H 
 
 
 M S 
 
 
BIRD HOUSES 337 
 
 one school to make possible the purchase of a first-class 
 printing outfit and many other good records have come to 
 the author from schools, communities, and individuals to 
 whom his bird-house plans have been supplied. 
 
 If your community has not had a bird-house building 
 contest, write to the editor of your newspaper and ask him 
 to start a campaign. He will recognize in 
 this feature material that will interest a large 
 percentage of readers, and, if his space will 
 permit, he may comply with your request. 
 Public-spirited business men are generally „ 
 
 r ° J Fig. 666. — League 
 
 glad to donate prizes for the best houses Button 
 entered in contests, and of course prizes stimulate interest, 
 for what boy will not "work his head off" to win a prize? 
 
 Bird-house building is 
 
 A Good All -the -Year Around Activity. It is never too 
 late or too early to put out houses. If too late for the 
 nesting season, the houses at least improve the appearance 
 of the home grounds. Weathering not only makes the 
 houses fit in better with the surroundings, but also renders 
 them more acceptable next season to the birds. 
 
 Besides building bird-houses yourself, you can serve the 
 birds by encouraging others to do likewise. In fact, you 
 can get other boys to work with you. For the purpose of 
 enlisting every bird-lover in the work, the author founded 
 
 The American Bird-House League,* and the league's 
 slogan "A home for every native house-nesting bird" gives 
 
 *It you or your teacher would be interested in full particulars concerning the 
 American Bird-House League, a stamp sent to A. Neel> Hall, Elmhurst, Illinois, 
 will bring you a copy of "Handicraft News," which tells all about it. 
 
338 
 
 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 promise of a goal not beyond the possibility of attainment, 
 for already it has a widespread membership covering nearly 
 every section of the United States and Canada. 
 
 Work To Be Proud Of. When you have enlisted your 
 services in the national bird conservation movement, by 
 building bird-houses 
 and encouraging 
 others to build them, 
 think of your pride 
 when you walk about 
 town after your 
 
 Praia Tta Ento 
 
 
 Feathered Friends 
 
 Bird House Factory 
 
 Dcf fienoct, Iow% 
 
 houses have been 
 erected, and point 
 them out every- 
 where. Father will 
 be mighty proud of 
 his boy craftsman, 
 your friends will 
 envy you, and you 
 will gain a reputa- 
 tion as an expert 
 bird-house builder. 
 It's lots of fun 
 
 u m j • i_ • j i Fig. 667. — Print your Stationery Like This 
 
 building bird-houses 
 
 and it's lots of fun selling them because they sell readily 
 
 among bird-lovers. You can establish 
 
 A Boy's Bird -House Factory with the certainty of enjoying 
 the work and of earning lots of money, as others among the 
 author's readers have done. The following two letters from 
 
BIRD HOUSES 339 
 
 boys who have followed the author's suggestions are con- 
 vincing: 
 Clessand V. Mulholland of Birmingham, Michigan, writes: 
 
 "I sold about forty houses last spring from thirty cents up, and 
 would have sold more only I sprained my ankle. We sold about 
 twenty-three of one model at fifty cents, and it cost about two cents 
 to make. Your plans helped us immensely. We made the large 
 twenty-eight-room martin house and this caused considerable atten- 
 tion around town. We won three first prizes and two second prizes 
 in contests. As to selling bird houses, it was easy. The Woman's 
 Club helped push our business along. We have planned next spring's 
 campaign, and have use of a prominent store window for our display. 
 We are making posters telling how much good the birds do. People 
 are always ready to buy as they know they are helping the birds as 
 well as us." 
 
 Vernon Hoi, and his brother Harold, proprietors of 
 "Feathered Friends' Bird-House Factory, Des Moines, 
 Iowa," report: 
 
 "We have had good success selling our houses at prices from 50 
 cents to $1.50, mostly wren houses. We did not get started until 
 late last year, so we are going to go after business right this year, as 
 we know there is big money in it. We are getting out a catalog of 
 bird houses, also circulars and post cards and personal letters, and we 
 will make a personal canvas of each house. The daily papers have 
 written us up and helped us wonderfully." 
 
 Vernon and Harold own a printing-press, and their 
 stationery, shown in Fig. 667, is a sample of the business-like 
 manner in which they are handling their bird-house pro- 
 position. 
 
34Q CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Among the many requests which the author receives from 
 readers for bird-house plans and building information, are 
 those for 
 
 The Right Dimensions for Houses. It is necessary to 
 know these, of course, before starting a house, because the 
 proportions will vary for different species. Little fellows 
 like the house-wren prefer small houses, and the doorway 
 should be about the size of a quarter. Therefore, when 
 planning a wren home, don't consider a 20-room palace, 
 such as you would provide for martins; and don't make a 
 larger doorway than the size mentioned above, because it 
 will admit the English sparrow. 
 
 The Height Above Ground to Place the Houses is also of 
 great importance. A wren, for example, prefers a house 
 placed between 6 and 10 feet above the ground, while a 
 martin's house must have a height of from 15 to 20 feet. 
 
 The United States Department of Agriculture has issued 
 
 A Chart of Correct Dimensions for houses to accommodate 
 every bird known to accept house nesting places, compiled 
 from data supplied by our best-informed naturalists, and 
 this chart is presented in Fig. 668 so that you will know 
 exactly what dimensions to use for the species of birds you 
 wish to house. 
 
 Materials for Bird-House Building can be found in every 
 household. Tomato cans, apple and sugar barrels, fish-kegs, 
 nail-kegs and white-lead kegs, ! cheese-boxes, butter- firkins, 
 wooden pails, flower-pots, and small boxes such as soap and 
 starch come in, will furnish all the material necessary for 
 building many kinds of houses. You will find plans in 
 
BIRD HOUSES 
 
 34i 
 
 Dimensions of Nesting-boxes for Various Species of 
 
 Birds 
 (From Farmers' Bulletin 609) 
 
 Species. 
 
 Floor 
 
 Depth 
 
 Entrance 
 
 Diam. 
 
 of 
 
 of 
 
 above 
 
 of 
 
 cavity. 
 
 cavity. 
 
 floor. 
 
 entrance. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 Inches. 
 
 5 by 5 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 m 
 
 6 by 8 
 
 8 
 
 C 1 ) 
 
 C 1 ) 
 
 4 by 4 
 
 8 to 10 
 
 8 
 
 m 
 
 4 by 4 
 
 8 to 10 
 
 8 
 
 1M 
 
 4 by 4 
 
 8 to 10 
 
 8 
 
 m 
 
 4by 4 
 
 6 to 8 
 
 lto 6 
 
 A 
 
 4 by 4 
 
 6 to 8 
 
 lto 6 
 
 1 
 
 4 by 4 
 
 6 to 8 
 
 lto 6 
 
 m 
 
 6 by 6 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 5 by 5 
 
 6 
 
 lto 6 
 
 m 
 
 5 by 5 
 
 6 
 
 1 to 6 
 
 m 
 
 6 by 6 
 
 6 
 
 C 1 ) 
 
 i 1 ) 
 
 6 by 6 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 2 l A 
 
 6by 6 
 
 6 
 
 ( 2 ) 
 
 ( 2 ) 
 
 6 by 6 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 6 by 6 
 
 6 
 
 C 1 ) 
 
 C 1 ) 
 
 6 by 6 
 
 8 to 10 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 7 by 7 
 
 16 to 18 
 
 16 
 
 2V2 
 
 6 by 6 
 
 12 to 15 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 6 by 6 
 
 12 to 15 
 
 12 
 
 2 
 
 6 by 6 
 
 12 to 15 
 
 12 
 
 m 
 
 4 by 4 
 
 8 to 10 
 
 8 
 
 1M 
 
 8 by 8 
 
 12 to 15 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 8 by 8 
 
 12 to 15 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 6 by 6 
 
 10 to 12 
 
 10 
 
 2V 2 
 
 10 by 18 
 
 15 to 18 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 10 by 18 
 
 10 to 15 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 Height 
 
 above 
 
 ground. 
 
 Bluebird 
 
 Robin 
 
 Chickadee 
 
 Tufted titmouse 
 
 White-breasted nuthatch 
 
 House wren 
 
 Bewick wren 
 
 Carolina wren 
 
 Dipper 
 
 Violet-green swallow . . . 
 
 Tree swallow 
 
 Barn swallow 
 
 Martin 
 
 Song sparrow 
 
 House finch 
 
 Phoebe 
 
 Crested flycatcher 
 
 Flicker 
 
 Red-headed woodpecker 
 Golden-fronted woodpecker 
 Hairy woodpecker . . 
 Downy woodpecker . 
 
 Screech owl 
 
 Sparrow hawk 
 
 Saw-whet owl 
 
 Barn owl 
 
 Wood duck 
 
 Feet. 
 
 5 to 10 
 
 6 to 15 
 6 to 15 
 6 to 15 
 
 12 to 20 
 
 6 to 10 
 
 6 to 10 
 
 6 to 10 
 
 lto 3 
 
 10 to 15 
 
 10 to 15 
 
 8 to 12 
 
 15 to 20 
 
 lto 3 
 
 8 to 12 
 
 8 to 12 
 
 8 to 20 
 
 6 to 20 
 
 12 to 20 
 
 12 to 20 
 
 12 to 20 
 
 6 to 20 
 
 10 to 30 
 
 10 to 30 
 
 12 to 20 
 
 12 to 18 
 
 4 to 20 
 
 1 One or more sides open. 2 All sides open. 
 
 Fig. 668. — To Win the Birds to your Houses Follow the Above Dimension 
 
342 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Handicraft for Handy Boys for houses made of the above 
 materials, and you will find other plans that admit their use, 
 in the chapters following this one. 
 
 Finishing. The usual method of finishing bird-houses 
 is with a wood-stain. You can use a ready-made shingle 
 stain, or you can make up your own stain by mixing oil paint 
 with turpentine or kerosene. Green and brown are the 
 colors generally used. Some people prefer to have the 
 houses painted white. If you finish the houses with paint, 
 use two coats. Give the inside one coat of stain or paint 
 as a wood preservative. Putty nail-holes and cracks to 
 keep out the rain. 
 
=r~r '._ 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI 
 WREN HOUSES 
 
 Wrens raise two broods each year, and for each brood 
 an apartment is required, because wrens do not use the same 
 nest twice. In fact, the second nest is begun before the 
 
 FlG. 673. — Cross-Section of Wren House Shown in Fig. 669 
 
 young birds of the first brood are ready to fly. If you build 
 one-compartment houses, you must provide two houses for 
 each pair of birds, if you wish to keep them with you during 
 the entire nesting season. Wren houses are often built 
 with several compartments, but not more than one family 
 at a time will take up quarters there because wrens are 
 
 343 
 
344 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 quarrelsome and do not colonize as martins do. The only- 
 advantage of the house with several compartments is that 
 it allows the birds a choice of quarters, and it provides for 
 their two broods. 
 
 I 
 
 - 5"- 
 
 H 
 
 c 
 
 D 
 
 c 
 
 MFH 
 
 -2"H 
 
 H£»i 
 
 8i" 
 
 Fig. 674. — Details of Parts of Wren House Shown in Fig. 669 
 
 In the table of dimensions shown in Fig. 668, you will see 
 that the house wren builds its nest usually at a height of 
 between 6 and 10 feet. Bear this in mind when putting 
 up wren houses. Also, place the houses so that the opening 
 faces the East, as that seems to be the preferred exposure. 
 
NHHfi 
 
 ra 
 
 Pig. 672. 
 Robin Shelter No. 2 
 
 Fig. 670. 
 Wren House No. 2. 
 
 Fig. 669. 
 
 Wren House 
 
 No. 1. 
 
 Fig. 671. — Robin Shelter No. 1. 
 
 Fi^. 671 — Wren House No. 3. 
 
WREN HOUSES 
 
 345 
 
 Make the opening H inch in diameter. This is plenty 
 large enough, and will keep out the English sparrow. Such 
 details as these may seem trivial to you, but they are 
 important enough to spell failure for the boy who neglects 
 to consider them. 
 
 Wren House No. 1, shown in Fig. 669, is to be suspended 
 from a tree limb. Figure 673 shows a cross-section, and 
 Fig. 674 shows dimensions for the parts required. Box 
 boards 3^ inch thick are good enough working material. 
 Bore the doorway where located in front piece A, and bore 
 a 34-inch hole below it for the perch-stick. The rear wall 
 is of the same size as 
 front A ; side B is of 
 the same size, also. 
 Side CD is 3^ inch 
 shorter than B, be- 
 cause B laps over its 
 edge; it is sawed into 
 three parts, the outer 
 pieces ( C) to be nailed 
 in place, the cen- 
 ter piece (D) to be 
 slipped between and 
 
 
 € 
 
 Fig. 675. 
 
 — Cross-Section of Wren House 
 Shown in Fig. 670 
 
 held at the top by a 
 block (G, Fig. 673), 
 and at the bottom by a button ( H) made of a scrap of tin. 
 Roof board F is the same as board E (Fig. 674), but is y 2 
 inch narrower to allow for the lapping edge of board E. . 
 Nail the parts together with i-inch finishing-nails. Use 
 
Fig. 676. — Details of Parts for Wren 
 House Shown in Fig. 670 
 
 346 
 
 Fig. 677. — Details of Parts of 
 Wren House Shown in Fig. 671 
 
WREN HOUSES 347 
 
 heavy wire for a hanger, and run it through holes bored 
 through the house ends just below the roof. Make the 
 holes large enough to serve as ventilators. 
 
 Wren House No. 2 (Fig. 670) is shown in cross-section 
 in Fig. 675, and Fig. 676 shows dimensions for the parts. 
 Bevel the top edge of front piece A, as shown, so the roof 
 will fit it squarely, bore a ^-inch doorway in the position 
 indicated, and bore a hole below it for the perch-stick. 
 
 Assemble the pieces as shown in Figs. 670 and 675. 
 Hinge back E to the edge of roof board D, to give access 
 for cleaning the house. It is not necessary to provide a 
 fastener for the hinged back, because when the house is hung 
 upon a tree trunk by passing wires through holes bored 
 through sides B, as indicated in Fig. 675, running these 
 around the tree, and fastening them, the back cannot open. 
 
 Wren House No. 3 (Fig. 671) is made of a tomato can 
 (A, Fig. 677), a tin funnel 53^ inches in diameter (B), a 
 wooden framework made of three strips (C and D) and two 
 dowel-sticks (£), and a hanger stick and screw-eye (F). 
 
 Sticks D provide a means for fastening the funnel roof. 
 Bevel their tops to correspond with the pitch of the funnel, 
 and punch a pair of holes through the funnel, through which 
 to drive screws into the sticks. Bore two ^-inch holes 
 through stick C, for perch sticks E. Cut hanger peg F 
 to fit the funnel spout, drive a screw-eye into its top, and 
 fasten the peg with a brad driven through the spout. 
 
 Finish the Wren Houses as described in Chapter 35. 
 
CHAPTER XXXVII 
 ROBIN SHELTERS 
 
 Robins build their nests on partially sheltered ledges, 
 as well as in trees and shrubbery. They do not take to 
 inclosed houses. You must build nesting places for them, 
 therefore, exposed upon two or more sides, of the type 
 shown in the photographs of Figs. 671 and 672 (Chapter 
 36). They will readily accept these shelters, placed in 
 secluded locations in the garden, or strapped to tree trunks, 
 or fastened to the outside walls of buildings. Robins nest 
 at heights of 6 to 15 feet, but it is advisable to place shelters 
 at the latter rather than the former height, because it makes 
 the nests less accessible to four-footed enemies. 
 
 Robin Shelter No. 1 (Fig. 671) requires a tin pan that 
 measures 83^ inches across the rim. If you cannot find 
 a worn-out pan at home, probably you can get one from a 
 neighbor. The pan may be a trifle larger than this, but 
 you will have to increase the size of ""he roof board ac- 
 cordingly (A, Fig. 679). 
 
 Figure 678 shows a cross-section of the shelter, and Fig. 
 679 shows a top view. Mark out top board A by the pattern 
 of Fig. 680, saw off the corners as indicated, and plane up 
 the edges. Bore a ^-inch hole through the center of five 
 
 348 
 
ROBIN SHELTERS 
 
 349 
 
 adjacent edges, in which to 
 drive perch-sticks E (Fig. c 
 679). Prepare three sup- 
 ports B by the pattern of 
 Fig. 680, cut off the lower 
 corners as indicated,and cut 
 a groove from side to side 
 4 inches below the top, 
 parallel to the top. Cut 
 the sides of the groove with 
 a saw, and split out the 
 wood between with a chisel. 
 The rim of the tin pan is 
 to fit in the grooves. Bore 
 a hole near the lower end 
 of the side supports to 
 run perch-stick F through 
 (Fig. 678). 
 
 Figure 679 indicates the 
 positions for supports B; 
 the distance apart to place 
 them will be determined 
 by the diameter of the 
 pan. Block C (Fig. 678) 
 should be of the thickness 
 of the projection on the 
 back edge of roof A. It 
 blocks out the rear sup- 
 port to make the shelter 
 
 ^3«te^ |p 
 
 Fig. 678. — Cross-Section of Robin 
 Shelter No. 1, Shown in Fig. 671 
 (Chapter 36) 
 
 Fig. 679. —Top View of Robin Shelter 
 No. 1, Shown in Fig. 671 (Chapter 36) 
 
350 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 I*— -II"— --M k—3* 
 
 Fig. 680. — Details of Parts of Robin 
 Shelter No. 1, Shown in Fig. 671 (Chapter 36) 
 
 fit squarely upon the tree or wall you hang it upon. Cut 
 perch-stick F io inches long. 
 
 Paint the tin pan with two coats of paint, to keep it from 
 rusting. The woodwork can be 
 finished as suggested in Chap- 
 ter 35. When the painted 
 pan is dry, fasten it to the 
 rear support with a screw 
 driven through a hole pierced 
 just below the rim (Fig. 678). 
 Punch several holes through the 
 pan bottom, for rain- water drains. 
 
 Robin Shelter No. 2 (Fig. 672) 
 may be made of grocery-box . fPrtK;n 
 
 J . . Fig. 681. — Cross-Section of Robin 
 
 boards. Material f-g inch thick Shelter No. 2, Shown in Fig. 672 
 
 (Chapter 36) 
 
ROBIN SHELTERS 
 
 351 
 
 J -7" J 
 
 ^ 
 
 f"H 
 
 - +4"- 
 
 — 4 
 
 I 
 
 CD 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 9" - 
 
 
 ,T 
 
 m\rf 
 <\J 
 
 1_ 
 
 * 
 
 
 
 D 
 
 
 Fig. 682. — Details of Parts for Robin Shelter 
 No. 2, Shown in Fig. 672 (Chapter 36) 
 
 Fig. 683. — How to Cut 
 the Two Side Pieces 
 at One Time 
 
 was used in the model shown in the" photograph, and the 
 dimensions for the parts required, given in Fig. 682, allow for 
 material of this thickness. The cross-section of Fig. 681 
 shows how the parts fit together. 
 
 Nail together, temporarily, the two boards out of which 
 side pieces A are to be cut, lay out the outline upon one 
 board, cut out the two pieces at one time (Fig. 683), and 
 then separate them. A hand bracket-saw (Fig. 18, Chapter 
 2), or a coping-saw (Fig. 19), is best for cutting the center 
 circular opening. The small hole shown in the upper right- 
 
352 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 hand corner of the side pieces is provided to run a wire 
 through for hanging up the house. The holes in the bottom 
 board C (Fig. 682) are drain holes. 
 
 Having cut the parts to the given sizes, and planed them 
 smooth, you will have no difficulty in assembling them, with 
 Figs. 672 and 681 before you to follow. 
 
CHAPTER XXXVIII 
 WOODPECKER HOUSES 
 
 5 Houses for woodpeckers must be made with deep cavities 
 like the hollowed tree-trunks in which they nest. The 
 dimensions will vary for different members of the wood- 
 pecker family. Little downy woodpecker requires a cavity 
 4 inches square at the bottom, extending about 8 inches 
 below the doorway. The doorway must be j% inches in 
 diameter. The hairy woodpecker's house should have a 
 cavity extending 12 to 15 inches below the doorway, measur- 
 ing 6 inches square at the bottom, and a doorway 1 3^ inches 
 in diameter. The red-headed woodpecker requires the same 
 size cavity as the hairy woodpecker, but an entrance 2 inches 
 in diameter. The flicker's house should have a cavity 
 extending between 16 and 18 inches below the doorway, 
 and a doorway 2^ inches in diameter. You will find all 
 of the necessary dimensions given in the "List of Dimen- 
 sions" of Fig. 668, Chapter 35. 
 
 The houses in the photographs of Figs. 684 and 685 are 
 designed for flickers. You can reduce the dimensions given, 
 to suit other species of woodpeckers. 
 
 Figure 687 shows a detail of the framework of 
 Woodpecker House No. 1 (Fig. 684). First prepare 
 
 353 
 
354 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 top and bottom pieces A by the pattern in Fig. 688. It will 
 simplify matters to nail two pieces of ^s-inch board together, 
 mark out the outline upon one board, and cut out the two 
 pieces at one time. A hand bracket-saw or coping saw 
 can be used for sawing out the curved ends, and notching 
 them. Make connecting strips B square, of the dimensions 
 given in Fig. 688. Fasten 
 
 them in the notches in top 
 and bottom pieces A, as 
 shown. 
 
 The curved front of tht 
 house is inclosed with tin. 
 The sides of five tomato 
 cans, with edges lapped % 
 inch, will do. Tack the tin to 
 strips B with carpet tacks. 
 
 Prepare side pieces C 
 (Fig. 687) after the front 
 has been inclosed. In one 
 piece cut the doorway in 
 the position shown in Fig. 
 688. Cut roof board D 
 (Fig. 687) by the pattern in 
 Fig. 688, and nail it to top 
 
 Fig. 687. — Detail of Framework of 
 Woodpecker House No. 1, Shown 
 in Fig. 684 
 
 piece A with equal projections at the sides, and a rear pro- 
 jection to cover back board E. Prepare back board E 
 by the pattern in Fig. 688, and hinge it to the rear edge of 
 roof piece D with a pair of hinges. 
 Figures 689 and 690 show details of the perches. Sticks 
 
^ma*BmaKm^mnsm 
 
 Fig. 686.— Bluebird House. 
 
 / 
 
 Fig. 684. — Woodpecker House 
 No. 1. 
 
 
 No. 685. — Woodpecker House 
 No. 2. 
 
Fig. 690 
 
 k-er— I 
 
 Fig. 688. — Detail of Parts for the Wood- 
 pecker House No. 1, Shown in Fig. 684 
 
 
 Fig. 689 
 
 Figs. 689 and 690 
 Details of Perch 
 
 Fig. 691. — Cross-Section of Woodpecker 
 House No. 2, Shown in Fig. 685 
 
 355 
 
356 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 F and / are -Hs-inch dowel-sticks. Cut blocks G and H 
 of the dimensions given in Fig. 690. Bore a hole in bottom 
 piece A to receive stick F, and nail through G into A. 
 
 ~YT 
 
 Fig. 692.— Detail of Parts of Woodpecker 
 House No. 2, Shown in Fig. 685. 
 
 Woodpecker House No. 2 (Fig. 685) is shown in cross- 
 section in Fig. 691, with all parts lettered in a manner cor- 
 
WOODPECKER HOUSES 357 
 
 responding to that used on the patterns in Fig. 692. Front 
 and back boards A may be made of J^-inch stuff, sides B, 
 roof boards C, floor D, and blocks F and G, should be cut 
 out of ^-inch stuff. Cut the main parts before starting to 
 Fig. 695 assemble. First, nail the four sides 
 together, then add the roof. Roof 
 boards C must be mitered, or one 
 piece must be lapped over the other, 
 at the ridge. Cover the joint with 
 a strip of tin. Fasten floor D be- 
 tween the sides with screws, so it 
 may be removed at house-cleaning 
 time. 
 Fig. 694 Fig. 693 There are six brackets F to sup- 
 
 Fig. 693.- Detail of Bracket P ort boards E(Fig. 691). The 
 
 for Woodpecker House No. 2 positions for them are shown in 
 
 Fig. 694 and 695. — Details tl. . . 
 
 of Knob for Base rig. 685 and a pattern is shown 
 
 in Fig. 693. The knob on the under 
 side of the base, made up of spools H and the block G 
 (Figs. 694 and 695,) is held by nail / driven through the 
 center into base D (Fig. 691). [Miter shelf boards E at the 
 corners. Add screw-eyes for hangers, then the house will 
 be ready for finishing with stain or paint. 
 
CHAPTER XXXIX 
 A BLUEBIRD HOUSE 
 
 Bluebirds require houses a little larger than the wrens, 
 with larger doorways. The floor space should be at least 
 5 inches square, the doorway i y% inches in diameter. The 
 height to place the house above the ground is from 5 to 10 
 feet. Comply with these requirements, see that the house 
 is not disturbed by cats and other unwelcome intruders, 
 and it is almost certain that Mr. and Mrs. Bluebird will be 
 perfectly contented with their new quarters, and, with good 
 fortune, will raise their customary two broods. 
 
 Bluebird houses can either be hung from a tree limb, or 
 be supported upon a pole. Figure 686 (Chapter 38) 
 shows a hanging bluebird house, and Fig. 696 shows the 
 same house mounted upon an iron-pipe support. If you 
 hang the house, fasten it close up to a tree limb so that it 
 will not swing much, for a swinging house does not strike 
 the fancy of the average pair of bluebirds. The house 
 mounted upon a pole seems to be preferred. 
 
 The two-compartment bluebird house shown in the illus- 
 trations makes an attractive little structure for the garden 
 or lawn, and it is simple to build. 
 
 358 
 
A BLUEBIRD HOUSE 
 
 359 
 
 In the cross-section of Fig. 697, which is a cross-section of 
 The Hanging-House, each piece is lettered, and in Fig. 
 698 you will find patterns of all the parts, similarly lettered. 
 Walls A and center partition E should be cut out of material 
 yi inch thick, the other pieces may be cut out of box boards 
 H inch thick. Prepare walls A first. If you will draw 
 a center-line, then upon one side of this line draw one- 
 half of the piece, you can take a piece of thin paper, 
 
 Fig. 696. 
 
 Bluebird House Supported on 
 Iron Pipe 
 
 make a tracing of the half, and transfer it to the other side 
 of the center-line to complete the piece. By doing this 
 you will find it easy to get both sides alike. Fasten together 
 two pieces of board with several nails driven part way in, 
 draw the outline of the wall upon one board, and saw out 
 the two pieces at one time. Both pieces will then be alike. 
 
wmmammimmmm!msmfm^Bmme^^^mii^^^B^^^^^sss=BSB^^^^^^m^^^^^^^^^^^~^^^^^^^^^^^———^^^^^^^mii^ii^gQ 
 
 360 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 Before separating the 'cut-out pieces, plane up their edges. 
 With walls A prepared, cut out center partition B, walls 
 C, roof moulding D, roof boards E, ridge-piece F} and 
 floor G. 
 
 The Doorways. If you haven't an expansive-bit that 
 can be adjusted to cut holes 1 1 / 2 inches in diameter, for 
 the doorways, bore several small holes in walls C, and 
 cut out the wood between them to make i^-inch open- 
 ings. 
 
 The tops of walls C must be bevelled to correspond with 
 the pitch of the roof, as must also the tops of moulding 
 strips D. Ridge-piece F must be grooved to fit over the 
 roof ridge, as indicated in Figs. 697 and 698. 
 
 In Assembling the House, first fasten partition B 
 between walls A, then nail moulding strips D to walls C, 
 and fasten walls C between walls A, close up against strips 
 D. tCare must be taken to get walls A exactly opposite, 
 else the entire structure will be lopsided. Next, fasten 
 roof boards E in place, being careful to get the end pro- 
 jections equal. With the roof nailed on, fasten ridge-piece 
 F to it. 
 
 The Floor is Made Removable so that the compartments 
 will be accessible for the annual house-cleaning. The floor 
 board (G, Fig. 697) slides in between walls A, above perch- 
 sticks H, and is held in position by nine wooden wedges 
 (K, Fig. 697) wedged in between it and the perch-sticks. 
 Bore ^-mdi holes through walls A, about % inch below 
 the floor, to receive 
 
 The Perch-Sticks H. Dowel-sticks may be used. The 
 
A BLUEBIRD HOUSE 
 
 361 
 
 bottom perch-stick H runs through a pair of blocks / cut 
 to the dimensions shown in Fig. 698 and hangers J 
 (Fig. 698) run into holes bored through the corners of blocks 
 /, and into holes bored in the center of the bottom edge of 
 walls A (Fig. 697). Fasten the pieces with brads. 
 
 Fig. 697. — Cross-Section of Hanging Bluebird 
 House Shown in Fig. 686. (Chapter 38) 
 
 The Bluebird House on a Pole, shown in Fig. 696, is 
 built in the same way as the hanging-house, up to the point 
 of attaching the perch-sticks. The center perch-stick H 
 (Fig. 697) is omitted, also the perch-stick suspended beneath 
 it. These must be left off to make room for 
 
 The Iron-Pipe Support (Fig. 699).. Get a piece of i-inch 
 or 134-inch iron pipe 10 or 12 feet in length, and have a 
 
6" H Hs- 
 
 Fig. 698.— Details of Parts for Bluebird House Shown in Fig. 686 
 
 (Chapter 38). 
 
A BLUEBIRD HOUSE 
 
 363 
 
 plumber thread one end of it (M, Fig. 700). Also get a 
 threaded floor-flange (N, Fig. 700) to fit the pipe. Cut a 
 piece of pi-inch, board to fit against the under side of the 
 
 floor of the house 
 (L, Fig. 699), and 
 fasten it to the floor, 
 then screw the floor- 
 flange to the board, 
 in the right place to 
 make it come exactly 
 under the center of 
 the house; and screw 
 the end of the pipe 
 into the flange (Fig. 
 701). 
 
 In a clay soil the 
 pipe support will 
 stand erect if driven 
 several feet into it, 
 but in a sandy soil it will be necessary to run some wire 
 stays from the top of the pipe down to stakes driven into 
 the ground several feet away from the base of the pipe. 
 A Permanent Way of Erecting the Pipe, is to set it in a 
 hole and then to fill the hole with concrete^ 
 
 Fig. 699. 
 
 Fig. 700 
 
 Fig. 701 
 
 Fig. 699. — Cross-Section of Bluebird House 
 Supported on Iron Pipe 
 Figs. 700 and 701. — Details of Iron Pipe 
 Support 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 A MARTIN HOUSE 
 
 Martins are very sociable birds, and prefer to nest in 
 colonies. They are not content with one or two com- 
 partment houses if larger houses are obtainable. A thirty- 
 room house like that shown in Fig. 702 is none too large. 
 This house has been designed so as to be of the simplest 
 possible construction. The floors and roof are built in 
 sections (Fig. 703), so the house can be erected easily, and 
 so it may be taken apart for cleaning. 
 
 Building Material. In building a house of the proportions 
 of the martin house, where there are so many small parts 
 exposed to the weather, it is worth while to buy good 
 lumber. The best wood for the work is cypress, and the 
 best thickness to use is ^-inch stuff. Thicker stock will do, 
 but it will make a heavier house, and that means more 
 to lift when erecting it. 
 
 The author's martin house, from which the drawings 
 have been made, measures 24 inches wide, 30 inches long, 
 and 35 inches high. First, build 
 
 The First Story Frame out of boards 4 inches wide (A 
 and B, Fig. 703), then the second story frame out of 8-inch 
 boards (C and D, Fig. 703), and then the third story frame 
 
 364 
 
A MARTIN HOUSE 
 
 365 
 
 out of 8-inch boards {E and F, Fig. 703). Cut boards A, 
 
 C, and £ 29 inches long, and boards B, D, and F 24 inches 
 
 long. 
 
 "*\Cut the Doorways before nailing the frames together. 
 
 Fig. 702. — A Thirty-Room Martin House 
 
 Mark off the positions for the partitions, which must 
 divide the frame into nine compartments of equal size 
 (Fig. 703), and then locate the doorways opposite the 
 centers of the compartments. There will be one round 
 doorway in boards A, and three in boards B, 2% inches 
 
366 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 in diameter. Unless you own an expansive-bit which can 
 be set to bore holes 2^2 inches in diameter, describe the 
 circles with a pencil-compass, bore several holes inside of 
 each circle, and cut out the wood between the circles, and 
 trim up the edges, with a chisel. 
 
 There is one square doorway in boards C and E, and three 
 in boards D and F, of the second and third story frames, 
 each 2 inches wide and 3 inches high. After marking them 
 out with a pencil, bore a hole at each corner, and cut from 
 one hole to another with a small saw. Trim up the edges 
 of the openings with a chisel. 
 
 After cutting the doorways, 
 
 Nail Together the Frame Boards, then cut and fasten 
 the partitions in place in the positions shown in Fig. 703. 
 You can cut two partitions of a length equal to the inside 
 length of the frame (G), and six shorter partitions to fit 
 between them (H); or you can cut two partitions of a 
 length equal to the inside length of the frames, and two 
 of a length equal to the inside width of the frames, and 
 halve them together. They will be halved in the same 
 way that the pigeon-holes of the writing-desk shown in 
 Chapter 8 are put together (Figs. 187 and 188). 
 
 Prepare Floor Boards / to fit the first-story frame 
 (Fig. 703), floor boards / to form a 3-inch projection upon 
 all sides of the second-story frame, floor boards K to form 
 a 2-inch projection upon all sides of the third-story frame, 
 and floor boards L to fit the third-story frame. 
 
 A hole must be sawed through the exact center of floors 
 /, /, and K to admit the post support V (Fig. 708), which 
 
A MARTIN HOUSE 
 
 367 
 
 I : d I 
 
 Fig. 703. — Build the Martin House in Sections as above 
 (For Dimensions of Parts See Text) 
 
 extends through the first, second and third stories. Nail floor 
 boards /, /, and K to the under side of the first, second, 
 and third-story frames. These sections need not be fastened 
 
368 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 to one another, because the center post support will tie 
 them together when they are slipped over it. 
 
 Cut the Gable -Ends M and partition N (Figs. 703 and 
 704) out of 1 2 -inch boards, making the angle at the peak 
 90 degrees. Bore three 23^-inch doorways through ends 
 M, in the positions shown. Nail floor boards L to the 
 bottoms of gable-ends M and partition N, then cut parti- 
 tions (Fig. 704) 4 inches wide, to fit between ends M 
 and partition N, and fasten floor P on top. 
 
 Fig. 704. — Detail of Top Section 
 
 Cut the Roof Boards long enough to project 6 inches 
 over the gable-ends and side walls, fasten them together 
 in two sections with battens, and fasten them to the tops 
 of the gable-ends. 
 
 Cut two triangular pieces like S (Fig. 705), and nail one 
 to the center of each end of floor L. Prepare a pair of 
 
 Brackets of the shape of U (Fig. 706) to fit under each 
 of the pieces S, and sixteen of the same size to fit under the 
 
A MARTIN HOUSE 
 
 3 6 9 
 
 third-story ledge, four on each side of the house. Cut 
 sixteen brackets of the shape of bracket T (Fig. 705), and 
 fasten these below the second-story ledge, four on each 
 side of the house. Cut 
 
 The Chimney blocks Q and R of the shape shown in Fig. 
 707, nail them together, and fasten to the center of the 
 peak of the roof. 
 
 Fig. 707 
 
 Fig. 706 
 
 Fig. 705 
 
 Figs. 705 and 706. — Details of Shelf Brackets 
 Fig. 707. — Chimney 
 
 f The Bird-House Support is built up as shown in Figs. 
 708 to 710. Center post V is a 2-by-6, pieces W are 
 2-by-2S (Fig. 709), brackets X are cut out of a 2-by-6 (Fig. 
 710), and the shoulder blocks Y and Z are cut out of a 
 piece of 2-DV-4. You will see by Fig. 709 that one of the 
 triangular brackets X is spiked to each of the edges of the 
 2-by-6 V, so the tops are on the same level. Shoulder 
 cross-pieces Y are then spiked to upright V, and to brackets 
 X, even with the tops of brackets X. Two-by-two W is 
 spiked to each side of 2-by-6 V, with the top butting against 
 the under side of shoulder crosspiece F. Another bracket 
 
370 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
 
 X is then spiked to each of the pieces W, with its top even 
 with the tops of the other brackets. Shoulder blocks Z 
 are cut to fit against brackets X and crosspieces Y. Center 
 member V of the support should project far enough above 
 the bracket, so the first-, second-, and third-story frames 
 will slip over it, and the top floor will rest upon it. 
 
 Fig. 708 
 
 Fig. 709 
 
 A Concrete Base. 
 Because a martin 
 house must have a 
 height of from 15 
 to 20 feet above the 
 ground, the base of 
 the support must be 
 made very solid to 
 prevent its blowing 
 over in a heavy 
 wind-storm. The 
 best method is to 
 dig a hole about 30 
 inches deep, 20 
 Fig. 710 inches wide, and 20 
 inches long, stand 
 the support in the 
 center, and fill in around it with concrete. Mix up the 
 concrete in the way described for making the mixture for 
 the concrete lawn-roller (Chapter 34). 
 
 To Set Up the Martin House, after the support has been 
 erected, will require two persons. Build a temporary 
 scaffolding around the support, to stand upon, and raise 
 
 Figs. 708 to 710. — Details of Post Support for 
 Martin House 
 
A MARTIN HOUSE 371 
 
 and set in place one section of the house at a time. Figures 
 711 to 714 in the Frontispiece to Part 4, opposite page 293, 
 show how the author rigged up a ladder scaffolding for set- 
 ting up his martin house; also how the sections were as- 
 sembled. 
 
INDEX 
 
 "A" shelter tent, 236. 
 
 Aerial, wireless, for toy battleship, 134; 
 150. 
 
 Aerial top, 233 ; to spin the, 234. 
 
 Airplanes, simple model, 225; matter of 
 balance, 225; the center of gravity 
 and center of air pressure, 225; to 
 make an envelope glide, 227; an 
 envelope glider, 228; a cardboard 
 glider, 229; a sling-shot glider, 230; 
 the sling-shot, 231; to launch the 
 sling-shot glider, 23 1 ; the aerial top, 
 233 ; to spin the top, 234. 
 
 Artillery and miniature warfare, toy, 
 156; a field artillery gun, 157; 
 shaping the gun, 159; the plunger, 
 159; testing the gun, 160; ^g-inch 
 shells, 160; the gun carriage, 160; 
 wheels, 162; mounting the gun, 162; 
 elevating device, 162; a siege gun, 
 162; shaping the gun, 163; the 
 plunger, 164; J^-inch shells, 164; the 
 gun carriage, 164; the elevating 
 device, 166; painting, 1-67; a forti- 
 fication, 167; disappearing guns, 167; 
 flagstaff, 168; laying out the battle- 
 field, 168. 
 
 B 
 
 Back yard and camp fireplaces, 241; a 
 fireplace with trenched fire-pit, 241; 
 a fireplace with circular fire-pit, 242; 
 a fireplace with above-ground fire- 
 pit, 242; a camp oven, 243; a wash- 
 boiler camp stove, 245; a fire shovel, 
 247; a camp-fire tripod, 247. 
 
 Back yard and camp lamp, 249; a 
 varnish-can lantern, 249 ; a lard-pail 
 candle lantern, 254; a tin-can candle- 
 holder, 255; another tin-can candle- 
 holder, 255; a candle light-fixture, 
 255; a bicycle-lamp bracket light 
 fixture, 256; trench candles, 256. 
 
 Back yard tents, 235; the "A" shelter 
 tent, 236; the tripod tent, 236; the 
 lean-to tent, 238; the cage tent, 238. 
 
 Baler, a paper-, 57; base of, 59; com- 
 pressor top for, 60; compressor lever 
 for, 60; how to operate, 61. 
 
 Ballast pocket for toy submarine, 143; 
 trigger for releasing, 143. 
 
 Barrel, toy machine-gun, 201; drill-gun, 
 211; Springfield model drill-gun, 213. 
 
 Barrel-stave rockers for box chairs, 108. 
 
 Basket, a hanging-, 3 16. 
 
 Basket, a seed, 321. 
 
 Basket, a waste, 82; a box, 106; another 
 design of, 1 13 . 
 
 Battery guns, toy battleship main, 135; 
 149; 152; secondary, 136; 149; 152. 
 
 Battlefield, laying out a miniature, 168. 
 
 Battleship, a toy superdreadnought, 
 129; materials for, 130; the hull, 130; 
 the superstructure-deck, 131; the 
 funnels, 133; the conning-tower, 134; 
 the masts, 134; the wireless aerial, 
 134; the fighting-tops, 135; the turret 
 bases and turrets, 135; the main 
 battery guns, 135; the secondary- 
 battery guns, 136; the flag-staffs, 
 136; the deck-rails, 136; the keel 
 strips, 137; a running-gear, 137; 
 painting, 137; assembling, 138. 
 
 373 
 
374 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Battleships, fleet of toy, 145; a battle- 
 ship, 147; hull, 148; superstructure- 
 deck, 148; masts, 148; fighting-tops, 
 148; funnels, 149; conning-tower , 
 149; gun turrets, 149; main-battery 
 guns, 149; secondary-battery guns, 
 149; spool wheels, 150; wireless 
 aerial, 150; a cruiser, 150; hull, 150; 
 superstructure-deck, 150; gun tur- 
 rets, 152; main-battery guns, 152; 
 secondary-battery guns, 152; funnels 
 153; masts, 153; fighting-tops, 153; 
 assembling, 153; paddle-wheel, 154. 
 
 Battle sight, 214. 
 
 Bayonet for drill-gun, 215. 
 
 Bench, work-, 1; an improvised, 2; top 
 for, 4; vise, 4; bench-stop, 6; a, with 
 adjustable vise, 6; bill of material, 
 6; framework, 7, bench-vise, 9; 
 bench-screw, 9; to attach bench- 
 screw, 10; peg supports for work, 12; 
 bench-stop, 12; tool-cabinet and 
 tool-racks, 13 ; a table work-, 15. 
 
 Beveled-siding, 260. 
 
 Bicycle-lamp bracket light-fixture, 256; 
 
 Bike garage, 258; working material, 259; 
 the floor framework, 261; the side 
 walls, 262; erecting the walls, 263; 
 the roof, 264; the door, 264; a cup- 
 board, 265; a wheel-rack, 265; a 
 runway, 265 ; painting, 265 ; to make 
 the garage tighter, 265. 
 
 Bird house, a bluebird, 358; bluebird 
 requirements, 358; the hanging- 
 house, 359; the doorways, 360; 
 assembling the house, 360; the re- 
 movable floor, 360; perch-sticks, 
 360; the bluebird house on a pole, 
 361; the iron pipe support, 361; a 
 permanent way of erecting the pipe 
 _ support, 363. 
 
 Bird house, a martin, 364; martin re- 
 quirements, 364; building material, 
 364; the first story frame, 364; 
 cutting the doorways, 365; nailing 
 
 together the frame boards, 366; the 
 floor boards, 366; the gable-ends, 
 368; the roof boards, 368; brackets, 
 368; the chimney, 369; the bird- 
 house support, 369; a concrete base, 
 370; to set up the house, 370. 
 
 Bird houses, 336; bird-house campaigns, 
 336; a good all-the-year-round 
 activity, 337; the American Bird- 
 House League, 337 ; work to be proud 
 °f» 33&> a boys' bird-house factory, 
 338; the right dimensions for houses, 
 340; the height above ground to 
 place the houses, 340; a chart of 
 correct dimensions, 340; 341; mate- 
 rials for bird-house building, 340; 
 finishing, 342. 
 
 Bird houses, robin, 348; robin require- 
 ments, 348; robin shelter No. 1, 348; 
 robin shelter No. 2, 350. 
 
 Bird Houses, woodpecker, 353; wood- 
 pecker requirements, 353; wood- 
 pecker house No. 1, 353 ; woodpecker 
 house No. 2, 356. 
 
 Bird houses, wren, 343; wren require- 
 ments, 343; wren house No. 1, 345; 
 wrenhouse No. 2, 347; wren house 
 No. 3, 347; finishing, 347. 
 
 Blotter, a spool desk, 36. 
 
 Bluebird house (see Bird House, a blue- 
 bird). 
 
 Bob-sled, 275; material, 275; the sled 
 runners, 276; the connecting cross- 
 pieces, 278; the foot-bar, 278; the 
 steering-line, 279; the sled seats, 279; 
 the bob-sled connecting seat, 280; 
 upholstering the seat, 281; the hand- 
 rails, 282; runner shoes, 283; paint- 
 ing, 283. 
 
 Book-ends, 44. 
 
 Book-trough and magazine-stand, 118. 
 
 Boom for clockwork derrick, 188. 
 
 Box, fancy-work, 84; covering, 85; a 
 cloth pocket and elastic tapes, 85; 
 spool spindles, 85. 
 
INDEX 
 
 375 
 
 Boxes, flower, 309; material for, 309: 
 finishing, 309; a window or porch 
 box, 310; feet, 311; a plant-tub, 312; 
 a plant-stand, 313; a hanging-box, 
 313; suspending the box, 314; metal 
 liners, 314; surplus water, 315; a 
 satisfactory drain, 315; before plant- 
 ing metal-lined boxes, 316; the 
 hanging-basket, 316. 
 
 Boxes, seed, 298; seed flats, 299; filling, 
 300; miniature green houses, 301; a 
 greenhouse with a lean-to roof, 301; 
 a greenhouse with a gable roof, 302; 
 painting, 303. 
 
 Box furniture, 96; a packing-box desk, 
 97; pigeon-holes, 99; finishing, 100; 
 a desk stool, 102; upholstering, 104; 
 finishing, 105, covering tor stool 
 seat, 105; a waste-basket, 106, box 
 rockers, 108; warping the rockers, 
 108; a table, 109; a tabouret, no. 
 
 Bracket-saw, 14. 
 
 Cabinet, a recipe filing-, 66; the cabinet, 
 67; the drawer, 68; finish for, 68; 
 envelope recipe containers, 68; 
 cabinet, a tool, 13. 
 
 Cables for clockwork derrick, 188; for 
 electro-magnet traveling crane, 195. 
 
 Cage tent, 238. 
 
 Calendar, a spool desk, 34. 
 
 Calendar-board and pen-rack, 42. 
 
 Camouflage, the rainbow smudge, 208. 
 
 Camp fireplaces, 241; a fireplace with 
 trenched fire-pit, 241; a fire-place 
 with circular fire-pit, 242; a fire- 
 place with above-ground fire-pit, 
 242; a camp oven, 243 ; a wash-boiler 
 camp-stove, 245; a fire shovel, 247; 
 a camp-fire tripod, 247. 
 
 Camp lamps, 249; a varnish-can 
 lantern, 249; a lard-pail candle 
 lantern, 254; a tin-can candle-holder, 
 255; another tin-can candle-holder, 
 
 255; a candle light-fixture, 255; a 
 bicycle lamp bracket light fixture, 
 256 ; trench candles, 256. 
 
 Candle-stick, a spool, 33 ; another design 
 of, 45- 
 
 Canning time, racks and trays for, 325; 
 a wash-boiler rack, 325; a rack sus- 
 pended over a stove, 326; a drying- 
 tray to stand upon a stove, 326; a 
 sun dryer, 327; a rack for ripening 
 tomatoes, 330; making racks and 
 trays to sell, 330. 
 
 Carriage, toy artillery gun, 160; 164, 
 wheels for, 162. 
 
 Cartridges for toy machine-gun, dowel- 
 stick, 205; magazine for, 205. 
 
 Centering platform for concrete lawn- 
 roller, 332. 
 
 Chain, jack, 314. 
 
 Chair, a telephone, 121. 
 
 Chairs, box rocking-, 108; warping the 
 barrel-stave rockers, 108. 
 
 Clock-shelf, 64. 
 
 Clockwork motor derrick-crane, 181; 
 clockwork for toy motor, 181; 
 pulley-wheel, 182; pulley-belts, 183; 
 winding-drums, 184; motor shack, 
 184; installing the motor, 185; turn- 
 table, 187; derrick, 187; beam, 187; 
 mast, 187; mast-pulley, 187; boom, 
 188; hoisting-block, 188; cables, 188; 
 tracks, 189. 
 
 Clothes-line reel 74; case, 75; reel, 75; 
 crank shaft, 76; clothes-line, 76; 
 hangers, 76; locking the, 76. 
 
 Clubs, drill, 210. 
 
 Code, signal, 222. 
 
 Cold-frame, 297. 
 
 Concrete base for the bird-house 
 support, 370. 
 
 Concrete mixture, 334; pouring, 334; 
 initial set, 334. 
 
 Conning-tower, a toy battleship, 134; 
 149. 
 
 Containers, recipe, 68. 
 
376 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Coping-saw, 14. 
 
 Crane, an electro-magnet traveler, 190; 
 the crane carnage, 190; stick tracks, 
 192; the electro-magnet, 192; the 
 switch, 194; the hoisting-cable, 195. 
 
 Crane with clockwork motor, derrick-, 
 181; clockwork for toy motors, 181; 
 pulley-wheel, 182; pulley belts, 183; 
 winding-drums, 184; motor shack, 
 184; installing the motor, 185; turn- 
 table, 187; derrick, 187; beam, 187; 
 mast, 187; mast pulley, 187; boom, 
 188; hoisting-block, 188; cables, 188; 
 tracks, 189. 
 
 Crank, firing, for toy machine-gun, 203. 
 
 Cupboard for bike garage, 265. 
 
 Cut-outs (see Scroll-saw Problems). 
 
 D 
 
 Deck, toy battleship, 131; 148; 150. 
 
 Deck rails, toy battleship, 136. 
 
 Decks, toy submarine, 141. 
 
 Derrick-crane with clockwork motor, 
 181; clockwork for toy motors, 181; 
 pulley wheel, 182; pulley-belts, 183; 
 winding-drums, 184: motor shack, 
 184; installing the motor, 185; turn- 
 table, 187; derrick, 187; beam, 187; 
 mast, 187; mast pulley, 187; boom, 
 188; hoisting-block, 188; cables, 188; 
 tracks, 189. 
 
 Desk, a packing-box, 97; pigeon-holes, 
 99; finishing, 100. 
 
 Desk blotter, a spool, 36. 
 
 Desk calendar, a spool, 34. 
 
 Desk calendar-board and pen-rack, 42. 
 
 Desk paper-knife, a spool, 37. 
 
 Desk paper-spindle, a spool, 37. 
 
 Desk pen-rack, a spool, 35. 
 
 Desk stationery-rack, a spool, 35. 
 
 Desk stool, 102; upholstering, 104; 
 finishing, 105 ; covering the seat, 105 . 
 
 Desk telephone directory, 49. 
 
 Dibble, 321; an umbrella-handle, 321. 
 
 Doll furniture, a seven-piece set of, 23. 
 
 Doll teeterers for sand-motor teeter toy, 
 180. 
 
 Door, a batten, 264. 
 
 Drill clubs, 210. 
 
 Drill guns, 210; a simple model, 210; 
 pattern for marking out duplicate 
 stocks, 211; the barrel, 211; trigger, 
 211; trigger-guard, 211; front sight, 
 211; rear sight, 211; finishing, 212; 
 a Springfield rifle model, 212; the 
 stock and barrel, 213; trigger and 
 trigger-guard, 213; front sight, 213; 
 rear sight, 213; battle sight, 214; 
 open sight, 214; peep sight, 214; 
 finishing, 214; the sling, 214; weight 
 of a Springfield, 215; to increase 
 weight of drill-guns, 215; a bayonet, 
 215; finishing, 216; a scabbard, 217. 
 
 Drop-siding, 260. 
 
 Drums, winding, 184. 
 
 Dryer, a sun, 327. 
 
 Drying-tray, 326. 
 
 E 
 
 Egg-rack, 47. 
 
 Electric-lighted watch base, 52 . 
 
 Electro-magnet traveling crane, 190; 
 the crane carriage, 190; stick tracks, 
 192; the electro-magnet, 192; the 
 switch, 194; the hoisting cable, 195. 
 
 Enamel paint, 32. 
 
 Envelope glider, 228. 
 
 Expansive-bit, 11. 
 
 Fancywork-box, 84; covering, 85; a 
 
 cloth pocket and elastic tapes, 85; 
 
 spool spindles, 85. 
 Fancywork-box with legs, 85 ; covering, 
 
 86. 
 Fancy-work frame, 77; spool spindles 
 
 for, 78. 
 
INDEX 
 
 377 
 
 Field artillery gun, a toy, 157; shaping 
 the gun, 159; the plunger, 159; test- 
 ing the gun, 159; %-inch shells, 160; 
 gun carriage, 160; wheels,i62; mount- 
 ing the gun, 162; elevatingdevice, 162. 
 
 Fighting-tops, toy battleship, 135; 148; 
 
 153- 
 
 Filing-cabinet, a recipe, 66; the cabinet, 
 67; the drawer, 68; finish for, 68; 
 envelope recipe containers, 68. 
 
 Finish, enamel paint, 32; for spool gifts, 
 34; stain and wax, 34; for kitchen 
 contrivpnces, 64; for sewing-room 
 contrivances, 8 1 ; for cigar-box wood, 
 68; for box furniture, 100; for small 
 furniture, 112; for toy battleship 
 137; for toy submarine, 144; for toy 
 artillery guns, 167; for toy machine- 
 gun, 208; for drill-guns, 212; for 
 bayonet, 216; for bike garage, 265; 
 for bob-sled, 283; for snow-fort 
 periscope, 289; for seed-fiats, 299; 
 for miniature greenhouses, 303; for 
 flower-boxes, 309; for lawn-roller 
 frame, 335; for bird houses, 342. 
 
 Firepit, a trenched, 241; a fireplace with 
 circular, 242; a fireplace with above- 
 ground, 242. 
 
 Fire shovel, a camp, 247. 
 
 Fireplaces, back yard and camp, 241; 
 a fireplace with trenched fire-pit, 
 241; a fireplace with circular fire-pit, 
 242; a fireplace with above-ground 
 firepit, 242; a camp oven, 243; a 
 wash-boiler camp stove, 245; a fire 
 shovel, 247 ; a camp-fire tripod, 247. 
 
 Firing-crank, toy machine-gun, 203. 
 
 Fixture, a camp candle light-, 255. 
 
 Flag for signalling, hand, 221. 
 
 Flag, staffs, toy battleship, 136. 
 
 Flats, seed-, 299; filling, 300. 
 
 Fleet of toy battleships, a, 145; a 
 battleship, 147; the hull, 148; the 
 superstructure-deck, 148; the masts, 
 148; the fighting-tops, 148; the 
 
 funnels, 149, the conning-tower, 149; 
 the gun turrets, 149; the main- 
 battery guns, 149; the secondary- 
 battery guns, 149; spool wheels, 150; 
 the wireless aerial, 150; a cruiser, 
 150; the hull, 150; the superstruc- 
 ture-deck, 150; gun turrets, 152; 
 main-battery guns, 152; secondary- 
 battery guns, 152; funnels, 153; 
 masts, 153; fighting-tops, 153; 
 assembling, 153; paddle-wheel, 154. 
 
 Flower-boxes, 309; material for, 309; 
 finishing, 309; a window or porch 
 box, 310; feet, 3 1 1 ; a plant-tub, 312; 
 a plant-stand, 313; a hanging-box, 
 313; suspending the box, 314; metal 
 liners, 314; surplus water, 315; a 
 satisfactory drain, 315; belore plant- 
 ing metal-lined boxes, 316; the 
 hanging-basket, 3 16. 
 
 Foot-bar, a bob-sled, 278. 
 
 Forcers, plant, 306; 308. 
 
 Fortifications for miniature warfare, 
 167; disappearing guns for, 167; 
 flagstaff, 168. 
 
 Frame, a cold-, 297. 
 
 Frame, a fancy-work, 77; spool spindles 
 for, 78. 
 
 Funnels, toy battleship, 133; 149; 153. 
 
 Furniture, a seven-piece set of , 23. 
 
 Furniture, box, 96; a packing-box, desk, 
 97; pigeon-holes, 99; finishing, 100; 
 a desk stool, 102; upholstering, 104; 
 finishing, 105; covering for stool 
 seat, 105; a waste-basket, 106; box 
 rockers, 108; warping the rockers, 
 108; a table, 109; a tabouret, no. 
 
 Furniture problems, small, in; mate- 
 rial for, in; finishing, 112; a waste- 
 basket, 113; a tabouret, 116; a 
 plant-stand, 116; a smoker's stand, 
 117; a book-trough and magazine- 
 stand, 118; a telephone table and 
 chair, 121 ; the table, 121; the chair, 
 124. 
 
378 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Gable-ends, 368. 
 
 Gable roof, 301. 
 
 Garage, a bike, 258; working material, 
 259; the floor framework, 261; the 
 side walls, 262; erecting the walls, 
 263; the roof, 264; the door, 264; 
 a cupboard, 265; a wheel-rack, 265; 
 a runway, 265; painting, 265; to 
 make the garage tighter, 265. 
 
 Garden accessories, 319; a tin-can 
 sprinkler, 320; a dibble, 321; an 
 umbrella handle dibble, 321; a 
 planting trencher, 321; a seed 
 basket, 321; garden markers, 323; 
 how to put up strings for vines, 3 23 ; 
 tomato-racks, 324. 
 
 Gifts, spool, 33; a candle-stick, 33; a 
 desk calendar, 34; a stationery-rack, 
 35; a pen-rack, 35; a desk blotter, 
 36 , a paper-knife, 37 ; a paper-spindle, 
 37; a toothpick-holder, 38; a ripper, 
 39; a hatpin-holder, 39; a necktie- 
 rack, 40. 
 
 Gifts in wood, small, 41; material for, 
 41; stain and wax finish for, 41; 
 calendar-board and penrack, 42; 
 post-card rack, 44; book -ends, 44; 
 candle-stick, 45; match-holder and 
 tray, 45 ; egg-rack, 47 ; desk telephone 
 directory, 49; time-card rack, 50; 
 wall telephone directory, 50; necktie- 
 rack, 51; necktie- or towel-rack, 52; 
 electric-lighted watch base, 5 2. 
 
 Glider, an envelope, 228; a cardboard, 
 229; a sling-shot, 230. 
 
 Gravity, center of, 225. 
 
 Greenhouses, miniature, 301; with a 
 lean-to roof, 301; with a gable roof, 
 302; painting, 303. 
 
 Grindstone operated by sand-motor, a 
 toy, 176. 
 
 Guard, drill-gun trigger, 211, 213. 
 
 Gun, a toy machine-, 196, what you can 
 do with it, 196; the parts, 196; the 
 
 stock, 196; the barrel, 201; the front 
 sight, 202; the hammer rod, 202; the 
 hammer spring, 202; the firing 
 crank, 203; cartridges, 205; the 
 magazine, 205; the tripod, 207; 
 painting, 20S, a helmet, 208. 
 
 Gun carriage, toy artillery, 160; 164; 
 wheels, 162. 
 
 Guns, drill-, 210; a simple model, 210; 
 pattern for marking out duplicate 
 stocks, 211; the barrel, 211; the 
 trigger, 211; the trigger-guard, 211; 
 the front sight, 211; the rear sight, 
 211; finishing, 212; a Springfield 
 rifle model, 212; the stock and 
 barrel, 213; the trigger and trigger- 
 guard, 213; the front sight, 213; the 
 rear sight, 213; battle sight, 214; 
 open sight, 214; peep sight, 214; 
 finishing, 214; the sling, 214; weight 
 of a Springfield rifle, 215; to increase 
 weight of drill-guns, 215; a bayonet, 
 215; finish for bayonet, 216; a 
 scabbard, 217. 
 
 Guns, toy battleship main battery, 135, 
 149, 152; secondary battery, 136, 
 149, 152. 
 
 Guns for miniature fortifications, dis- 
 appearing, 167. 
 
 H 
 
 Hammer rod, toy machine-gun, 202; 
 spring for, 202. 
 
 Hand fla.g for signalling, 221. 
 
 Hand-rails for bob-sled, 282. 
 
 Hangers, flower-box, 314. 
 
 Hanging-box, 313; suspending the, 314. 
 
 Hatpin holder, a spool, 39. 
 
 Helmet, a wash-basin, 208. 
 
 Hike tents, 235; the "A" shelter tent, 
 236; the tripod tent, 236; the lean-to 
 tent, 238; the cage tent, 238. 
 
 Hoisting-block for clockwork derrick, 
 
INDEX 
 
 379 
 
 Holder, a stationery, 35; a toothpick-, 
 
 38; a hatpin-, 39; a match-, 45. 
 Holder, a tin-can candle-, 255; another, 
 
 255- 
 
 Holder, a Sammy spool-, 87. 
 
 Holder, a whisk-broom, 94. 
 
 Hopper for sand toys, 170, 177. 
 
 Hotbed, 293; size to make a, 293; a 
 single-sash, 293; the framework, 
 294 ; assembling the framework, 294; 
 digging the hotbed pit, 295; filling 
 the pit, 295; a cold-frame, 297. 
 
 House, a bluebird, 358; bluebird require- 
 ments, 358; the hanging-house, 359; 
 the doorways, 360; assembling the 
 house, 360; the removable floor, 360; 
 perch-sticks, 360; the bluebird house 
 on a pole, 361 ; the iron pipe support, 
 361; a permanent way of erecting 
 the pipe support, 363. 
 
 House, a martin, 364; martin require- 
 ments, 364; building material, 364; 
 the first story frame, 364; cutting 
 the doorways, 365; nailing together 
 the frame boards, 366; the floor 
 boards, 366; the gable-ends, 368; 
 the roof boards, 368; brackets, 368; 
 the chimney, 369; the bird-house 
 support, 369; a concrete base, 370; 
 to set up the house, 370. 
 
 Houses, bird, 336; bird-house campaigns, 
 336; a good all-the-year around 
 activity, 337; the American Bird- 
 House League, 337; work to be 
 proud of, 338; a boy's bird-house 
 factory, 338; the right dimensions 
 for houses, 340; the height above 
 ground to place the houses, 340; a 
 chart of correct dimensions, 340, 341 ; 
 materials for bird-house building, 
 340; finishing, 342. 
 
 Houses, robin, 348; robin requirements, 
 348; robin shelter No. 1, 348; robin 
 shelter, No. 2, 350. 
 
 Houses, woodpecker, 353; woodpecker 
 
 requirements, 353; house No. 1, 335; 
 
 woodpecker house No. 2, 356. 
 Houses, wren, 343; wren requirements, 
 
 343; wren house No. 1, 345; wren 
 
 house No. 2, 347; wren house No. 3, 
 
 347; finishing, 347. 
 Hull, toy battleship, 130; 148; 150; 
 
 toy submarine, 141. 
 
 Initial set of cement, 334. 
 
 Jack-chain, 314. 
 
 Jig-saw picture puzzles, 16; wood for, 
 
 17; picture material, 18; mounting, 
 
 18; how to cut, 18; the T-puzzle, 19; 
 
 the square puzzle, 20; the prism 
 
 puzzle, 21. 
 
 K 
 
 Keel for toy battleship, 137. 
 
 Kitchen, for mother's, 63 ; a clock-shelf, 
 64; finish, 64; a tool-rack, 65; a 
 milk-card rack, 66; a recipe filing- 
 cabinet, 66; the cabinet, 67; the 
 drawer, 68; finish for cigar-box 
 wood, 68; envelope recipe containers, 
 68; a step-ladder stool, 69; the 
 ladder, 69; the side rails, 69; the 
 steps, 70; the rear legs, 71; the top 
 step, 71; the struts, 71; clothes-line 
 reel, 74; case of reel, 75; the reel, 75; 
 the crank-shaft, 76; the clothes-line, 
 76; hangers, 76; locking the reel, 76. 
 
 Knitting needles, sweater, 91; point 
 protectors for, 92; sock, 92. 
 
 Ladder, a stool step-, 69; the ladder, 69; 
 the side rails, 69; the steps, 70; the 
 rear legs, 71; the top step, 71; the 
 struts, 71. 
 
3 8o 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Lamps, back-yard and camp, 249; a 
 varnish-can lantern, 249; a lard -pail 
 candle lantern, 254; a tin-can candle- 
 holder, 255; a candle light-fixture, 
 255; a bicycle lamp bracket light- 
 fixture, 256; trench candles, 256. 
 
 Lantern, a varnish-can, 249; a lard-pail 
 candle-, 254. 
 
 Lawn roller, $3 1 ; material required, 331; 
 the centering platform 332; locating 
 center for the axle, 333; the center 
 of the flange end, z^y, the concrete 
 mixture, 334; pouring the concrete, 
 334; the initial set, 334; removing 
 the tile pipe, 335; the iron pipe 
 handle frame, 335; painting, 335. 
 
 Lean-to roof, 301. 
 
 Lean-to tent, 238. 
 
 Light-fixture, a camp candle, 255. 
 
 Liners, flower-box metal-, 314; surplus 
 water, 3151a satisfactory drain, 315; 
 before planting metal-lined boxes, 
 316. 
 
 M 
 
 Machine-gun, a toy, 196; what you can 
 do with it, 196; the parts, 196; the 
 stock, 196; the barrel, 201; the front 
 sight, 202; the hammer rod, 202; 
 the hammer spring, 202; the firing- 
 crank, 203; cartridges, 205; the 
 magazine, 205; the tripod, 207; 
 painting, 208; a helmet, 208. 
 
 Magazine for toy machine gun, 205. 
 
 Magazine-stand and book-trough, 1 18. 
 
 Martin house, 364; martin requirements, 
 364; building material, 364; the first 
 story frame, 364; cutting the door- 
 ways, 365 ; nailing together the frame 
 boards, 366; the floor boards, 366; 
 the gable ends, 368; the roof boards, 
 368; brackets, 368; the chimney, 
 369; the bird-house support, 369; 
 a concrete base, 370; to set up the 
 house, 370. 
 
 Main battery guns, toy battleship, 135, 
 149, 152. 
 
 Markers, garden, 323. 
 
 Mast, the clockwork derrick-crane, 187; 
 pulley for, 187. 
 
 Masts, toy battleship, 134, 148, 153. 
 
 Matched boards, 260. 
 
 Match-holder, 45. 
 
 Milk-card rack, 66. 
 
 Model airplanes, simple, 225; matter of 
 balance, 225; the center of gravity 
 and center of air pressure, 225; to 
 make an envelope glide, 227; an 
 envelope glider, 228; a cardboard 
 glider, 229; a sling-shot glider, 230; 
 the sling-shot, 231; to launch the 
 sling-shot glider, 231; the aerial top, 
 233; to spin the top, 234. 
 
 Monkey-in-swing cut-out, 27. 
 
 Motor, clockwork, 181; installing the, 
 
 185. 
 Motor shack, clockwork, 184. 
 
 N 
 Necktie-rack, a spool, 40; other designs 
 
 of, 51, 52. 
 Needles, sweater knitting, 91; sock 
 
 knitting, 92; point protectors for, 92. 
 
 O 
 
 Open sight, 214. 
 Oven, a camp, 243. 
 
 Paddle-wheel for toy battleship, 154; 
 for sand-motor, 170. 
 
 Painting, jig-saw cut-outs, 32; kitchen 
 contrivances, 64; sewing-room con- 
 trivances, 81; box furniture, 100; 
 small furniture, 112; toy battleship, 
 137; toy submarine, 144 ; toy artillery 
 guns, 167; toy machine-gun, 208; 
 drill-guns, 212; bayonet, 216; bike 
 
INDEX 
 
 38i 
 
 garage, 265; bob-sled, 283; the snow- 
 fort periscope, 289; seed-flats, 299; 
 miniature greenhouses, 303; flower- 
 boxes, 309; lawn-roller, 335; bird- 
 houses, 342. 
 
 Paper-baler, 57; base of, 59; compressor 
 top for, 60; compressor lever for, 60; 
 how to operate, 61. 
 
 Paper-knife, a spool, 37. 
 
 Paper spindle, a spool, 37. 
 
 Parrot-in-swing cut-out, 27. 
 
 Parting-strips, 317. 
 
 Peep sight, 2 14. 
 
 Pen -rack, 42; a spool, 42. 
 
 Periscope, a snow-fort, 284; material, 
 required, 285; cutting out the parts, 
 287; assembling the box, 288; open- 
 ings, 288; handles, 289; painting, 
 289. 
 
 Periscopes for toy submarine, 144. 
 
 Perch-sticks, bird-house, 360. 
 
 Picture puzzles, 16. 
 
 Pigeon-holes for desk, 99. 
 
 Pipe handle frame for lawn-roller, 335. 
 
 Pit for a hotbed, digging a, 295; filling, 
 
 295- 
 
 Plant boxes, 309; material for, 309; 
 finishing, 309; a window or porch 
 box, 310; feet, 311; a plant-tub, 312; 
 a plant-stand, 313; a hanging-box, 
 313; suspending the box, 314; metal 
 liners, 314; surplus water, 315; a 
 satisfactory drain, 315; before plant- 
 ing metal-lined boxes, 316; the 
 hanging-basket, 3 16. 
 
 Planting trencher, 321. 
 
 Plant-shields and forcers, 305; the 
 paper-funnel, shield, 306; the flower- 
 pot shield, 306; the basket shield, 
 306; the tin can shield and forcer, 
 306; a plant forcer, 308. 
 
 Plant-stand, 116, 313. 
 
 Plant-tub, 312. 
 
 Platform, a toboggan-slide, 268, 272. 
 
 Plunger, toy artillery gun, 159, 164. 
 
 Pocket for fancywork-box, 85. 
 
 Porch flower-box, 310; feet, 311; metal 
 liners, 314; surplus water, 315; a 
 satisfactory drain, 315; before plant- 
 ing metal-lined boxes, 316. 
 
 Post-card rack, 44. 
 
 Pots, paper, 303; cardboard box, 304; 
 circular, 304. 
 
 Prism puzzle, 21. 
 
 Pulley-belts, rubber-band, 183. 
 
 Pulley-wheel, a spool, 182. 
 
 Puzzle, the T-, 19; the square, 20; the 
 prism, 21. 
 
 Puzzles, jig-saw picture, 16; wood for; 
 17; picture material, 18; mounting, 
 18; how to cut, 18. 
 
 R 
 
 Rack, a tool-, 13; a spool stationery-, 
 35 ; a spool pen-, 35 ; a spool necktie-, 
 40; a pen-, 42; a post -card, 44; an 
 egg-, 47; a time-card, 50; a wall 
 telephone directory, 50; a necktie-, 
 5 1 ; a necktie- or towel-, 5 2 ; a kitchen 
 tool-, 65; a milk-card, 66; a bicycle, 
 265. 
 
 Racks, tomato-, 324. 
 
 Racks and trays for canning time, 3 25 ; 
 a wash-boiler rack, 325; a rack sus- 
 pended over a stove, 326; a drying- 
 tray to stand upon a stove, 326; a 
 sun dryer, 327; a rack for ripening 
 tomatoes, 330; making racks and 
 trays to sell, 330. 
 
 Railings, a toboggan-slide platform, 
 268; step-, 269. 
 
 Rails, toy battleship deck-, 136. 
 
 Rainbow smudge camouflage, 208. 
 
 Recipe filing-cabinet, 66; the cabinet, 
 67; the drawer, 68; finish, for 68; 
 envelope recipe containers, 68. 
 
 Reel, clothes-line, 74; case, 75, crank- 
 shaft, 76; clothes-line, 76; hangers, 
 76; locking the, 76. 
 
 Ripper, a spool, 39. 
 
„-■-. — --. 
 
 3 82 
 
 IXDEX 
 
 Runners, bob-sled, 276; shoes for, 2S3. 
 
 Running-gear for toy battleship, 137. 
 
 Robin shelters, 34S; robin requirements, 
 34S; robin shelter No. 1, 34S; robin 
 shelter Xo. 2, 350. 
 
 Rockers, box, 108; warping the barrel- 
 stave rockers, io3. 
 
 Roller, a lawn, 331: material required, 
 331; the centering platform, 332; 
 locating center for the axle, ^33 > the 
 center of the flange end, S33'< the 
 concrete mixture, 334; pouring the 
 concrete, 334; the initial set, 334; 
 removing the tile pipe, 335; the iron 
 pipe handle frame, 335 ; painting, 335. 
 
 Roof, a lean-to, 301; a gable, 301. 
 
 Sammy spool-holder, S7; a needle 
 bayonet, S9; painting Sammy's 
 clothes, So. 
 
 Sand-motor toys, 170; a practical 
 sand-motor, 170; a sand-hopper, 170; 
 paddle-wheel. 170; shafting, 171; 
 pulley-wheels, 171; position of 
 paddle-wheel, 172; sand for motor, 
 173; a trip-hammer, 173; a toy 
 grindstone, 176; a teeter toy. 177; 
 the standard, 177; the hopper. 177; 
 the teeter, 17S; how the teeter toy 
 works, 179; the doll teeterers, 1S0: 
 a sand scoop, 180. 
 
 Sash for hotbed, 293. 
 
 Saw, scroll-, 14; bracket-, 14; coping-, 
 14; jig-, 16; band-, 17. 
 
 Scabbard for drill-gun bayonet, 217. 
 
 Screw, bench-, 9. 
 
 Scroll-saw problems, 14; saws for, 14, 
 table to cut upon, 15 ; jig-saw picture 
 puzzles, 16; the best wood, 17; 
 picture material, iS; mounting, 18; 
 how to cut picture puzzles, iS; the 
 T -puzzle. 19; full-size patterns, 19; 
 the square puzzle. 20; patterns, 21; 
 the prism puzzle, 2 1 ; seven-piece set 
 
 of doll furniture, 23 ; bird and animal 
 cut-outs, 27. 
 Secondary-battery guns, toy battleship, 
 136, 140, 152. 
 
 Seed basket, 321. 
 
 Seed boxes and paper pots, 298; seed- 
 flats, 299; filling, 300; miniature 
 greenhouses, 301; a greenhouse with 
 a lean-to roof, 301; a greenhouse 
 with a gable roof, 302; painting, 303 ; 
 paper pots, 303; pot made from 
 cardboard box, 304; circular pots, 
 3°4- 
 
 Set of cement, the initial, 334. 
 
 Sewing room, for mother's, 775a f ancy- 
 work frame, 77; spool spindle, 78; 
 a sewing-stand, 70; assembling, 80; 
 finishing the woodwork, 81; a 
 cretonne or denim covering, Si; a 
 waste-basket, 82; a work-bag on a 
 folding support S2; the bag, 8s; a 
 fancywork-box, 84; covering the 
 box, 85; a cloth pocket and elastic 
 tapes, 85; spool spindles, 85; a 
 fancywork-box with legs, 85; cre- 
 tonne covering, S6; a Sammy spool- 
 holder, 87, a needle bayonet, 89; 
 painting Sammy's clothes, 89; a 
 yarn winder, S9; sweater knitting 
 needles, 91; sock knitting needles, 
 92; needle-point protectors, 92; a 
 whisk-broom holder, 94. 
 
 Sewing-stand. 79. 
 
 Shelf, a clock-, 64. 
 
 Shells for toy artillery guns, 160, 164. 
 
 Shelters, robin, 34S; robin requirements, 
 348; shelter Xo. 1. 34S; shelter No. 2, 
 35o. 
 
 Shelter tent, an "A," 234. 
 
 Shields and forcers, plant, 305; the 
 paper-funnel shield, 306; the flower- 
 pot shield. 306; the basket shield, 
 306; the tin can shield and forcer, 
 306; a plant forcer, 30S. 
 
 Shiplap, 259. 
 
INDEX 
 
 383 
 
 Shoes, bob-sled runner-, 2 83. 
 
 Siding drop-, 260; beveled-, 260. 
 
 Siege gun, toy artillery, 162; shaping 
 the gun, 163; the plunger, 164; 3^- 
 inch shells, 164; the gun carriage, 
 164; elevating device, 166; painting, 
 167. 
 
 Sight, toy machine-gun front, 202; drill- 
 gun front, 211; 213; drill-gun rear, 
 211, 213; battle, 214; open, 214; 
 peep, 214. 
 
 Signal code, 222. 
 
 Signalling, 221; hand flag for, 221; 
 memorizing the code, 222; to attract 
 attention, 224; to finish a message, 
 224. 
 
 Sled, a bob-, 275; material for, 275; the 
 sled runners, 276; the connecting 
 crosspieces, 278; the foot-bar, 278; 
 the steering-line, 279; the sled seats, 
 279; the bob-sled connecting seat, 
 280; upholstering the seat, 281; the 
 hand-rails, 282; runner shoes, 283; 
 painting, 283. 
 
 SHde, a toboggan-, 266; building 
 material, 266; the platform base, 
 268; the platform railings, 268; the 
 step-railings, 269; setting up the 
 framework, 270; collecting snow for 
 the slide, 270, the platform, 272; a 
 set of steps, 272; the surface of the 
 slide, 272; if there is a scarcity of 
 snow, 272; a plank slide, 273; a 
 more elaborate toboggan-slide, 273. 
 
 Sliding-strip, a bench-vise, 9. 
 
 Sling, a drill-gun, 214. 
 
 Sling-shot glider, 230; the sling-shot, 
 231; to launch the, 231. 
 
 Smoker's stand, 117. 
 
 Snow-fort periscope, 284; material re- 
 quired, 285; cutting out the parts, 
 287; assembling the box, 288; open- 
 ings, 288; handles, 289; painting, 
 289. 
 
 Snow toboggan-slide, 266; building 
 material, 266; the platform base, 
 268; the platform railings, 268; the 
 step-railings, 269; setting up the 
 framework, 270; collecting snow for 
 the slide, 270; the platform, 272; 
 a set of steps, 272; the surface of 
 the slide, 272; if there is a scarcity 
 of snow, 272; a plank slide, 273; a 
 more elaborate toboggan-slide, 273. 
 
 Spindle, a paper-, 37. 
 
 Spindle, a spool, 78, 85. 
 
 Spool gifts, ss; a candle-stick, 33; a 
 desk calendar, 34; a stationery-rack, 
 35; a pen-rack, 35; a desk blotter, 
 36; a paper-knife, 37; a paper- 
 spindle, 37; a toothpick-holder, 38; 
 a ripper, 39; a hatpin-holder, 39; 
 a necktie-rack, 40. 
 
 Spool-holder, a Sammy, 87; a needle 
 bayonet for, 89; painting Sammy's 
 clothes, 89. 
 
 Springfield rifle model of drill-gun, 212; 
 the stock and barrel, 213; the trigger 
 and trigger guard, 213; the front 
 sight, 213; the rear sight, 213; battle 
 sight, 214; open sight, 214; peep 
 sight, 214; finishing, 2T4; the sling, 
 214; weight of a Springfield rifle, 
 215; to increase weight of drill-gun, 
 
 215- 
 
 Sprinkler, a tin-can, 320. 
 
 Square puzzle, 20. 
 
 Stain and wax finish, 41. 
 
 Stand, a book-trough and magazine, 
 
 118. 
 Stand, a plant-, 1 16, 313. 
 Stand, a sewing-, 79. 
 Stand, a smoker's, 117. 
 Stationery-rack, a spool, 35. 
 Steering-line, a bob-sled, 279. 
 Step-ladder stool, 69; the ladder, 69; 
 
 the side rails, 69; the steps, 70. 
 Steps for toboggan-slide, 272. 
 
384 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Stock, toy machine-gun, 196; pattern 
 for drill-gun, 211. 
 
 Stool, a box desk, 102; upholstering, 
 104; finishing covering for seat, 105. 
 
 Stool, a step ladder, 69; the ladder, 69; 
 the side rails, 69; the steps, 70. 
 
 Stop, bench-, 12. 
 
 Stove, a wash-boiler camp, 245. 
 
 Struts, 71. 
 
 Stucco, 260. 
 
 Submarine, a toy, 139; the operating 
 mechanism, 139; the hull and upper 
 decks, 141; the ballast pocket, 143; 
 the trigger for releasing ballast, 143 ; 
 the periscopes, 144; painting, 144; 
 submerging the, 144. 
 
 Superdreadnought battleship, a toy, 
 129; materials for, 130; the hull, 130; 
 the superstructure-deck, 131; the 
 funnels, 133; the conning-tower, 134; 
 the masts, 134; the wireless aerial, 
 134; the fighting-tops, 135; the 
 turret bases and turrets, 135; the 
 main-battery guns, 135; the second- 
 ary-battery guns, 136; the flagstaff s, 
 136; the deck-rails, 136; the keel 
 strips, 137; a running-gear, 137; 
 painting, 137; assembling, 138. 
 
 Superstructure-deck, toy battleship, 
 131, 148, 150. 
 
 Support for bird-house, iron pipe, 361; 
 a permanent way of erecting, 363 ; a 
 post 363; a concrete base for, 370. 
 
 Sock knitting needles, 92. 
 
 Sweater knitting needles, 91; point 
 protectors for, 92. 
 
 Switch for electro-magnet traveling- 
 crane, 194. 
 
 Table, a box, 109; a telephone, 121. 
 Table work-bench, 2; top for, 4; vise, 4; 
 
 bench-stop, 6. 
 Tabouret, a box, no; another design 
 
 of, 116. 
 
 Teeter toy, a sand motor, 177; the 
 standard, 177; the hopper, 177; the 
 teeter, 178; how the teeter toy 
 works, 179; the doll teeterers, 180; 
 a sand scoop, 180. 
 
 Telephone directory, a desk, 49; a wall, 
 
 5°- 
 
 Telephone table and chair, 121. 
 
 Tents for hikes and the back yard, 235; 
 the "A" shelter tent, 236; the 
 tripod tent, 236; the lean-to tent 
 238; the cage tent, 238. 
 
 Toboggan-slide, 266; building material, 
 266; the platform base, 268; the 
 platform railings, 268; the step- 
 railings, 269; setting up the frame- 
 work, 270; collecting snow for the 
 slide, 270; the platform, 272; a set 
 of steps, 272; the surface of the slide, 
 272; if there is a scarcity of snow, 
 272; a plank slide, 273; a more 
 elaborate toboggan-slide, 273. 
 
 Time-card rack, 50. 
 
 Tomato ripening-rack, 330. 
 
 Tomato-vine racks, 3 24. 
 
 Tool -cabinets, 13. 
 
 Tool-racks, 13 ; a kitchen, 65. 
 
 Toothpick-holder, a spool, 38. 
 
 Tongued-and-grooved boards, 260. 
 
 Top, an aerial, 233 ; to spin the, 234. 
 
 Tops, fighting-, toy battleship, 135, 148, 
 
 153- 
 Towel-rack, 52. 
 Toy artillery and miniature warfare, 
 
 156. 
 Toy battleship, 1 29, 147, 150. 
 Toy derrick-crane with clockwork 
 
 motor, 181. 
 Toy electro-magnet traveling crane, 
 
 190. 
 Toy fleet, 145. 
 Toy machine-gun, 196. 
 Toy submarine, 139. 
 Toys, sand-motor, 170. 
 Tub, a plant-, 312. 
 
INDEX 
 
 385 
 
 Turntable for clockwork derrick-crane, 
 
 187. 
 Turrets, toy battleship, 135, 149, 152. 
 T-puzzle, 19. 
 Tracks for clockwork derrick, 189; for 
 
 electro-magnet traveling crane, 192. 
 Tray, vegetable drying-, 326; making 
 
 trays to sell, 330. 
 Trench candles, 256. 
 Trencher, a planting, 321. 
 Trigger, drill-gun, 211, 213. 
 Trigger-guard, drill gun, 211, 213. 
 Trip-hammer operated by sand-motor, 
 
 173- 
 Tripod, a camp-fire, 247. 
 Tripod, toy machine-gun, 207. 
 Tripod tent, 234. 
 Trough and magazine-stand, a book, 
 
 118. 
 
 U 
 
 Upholstering a bob-sled seat, 281. 
 Upholstering a desk stool, 104. 
 
 Vine strings, 323. 
 
 Vise, an improvised bench-, 4; an 
 adjustable bench-, 9. 
 
 W 
 Warfare and toy artillery, miniature, 
 156; a field artillery gun, 157; shap- 
 ing the gun, 159; the plunger, 159; 
 testing the gun, 160; %-inch shells, 
 160; the gun carriage, 160; wheels, 
 162; mounting the gun, 162; the 
 elevating device, 162; a siege gun, 
 162; shaping the gun, 163; the 
 plunger, 164; i^-inch shells, 164; 
 the gun carriage, 164; the elevating 
 device, 166; painting, 167; a forti- 
 fication, 167; disappearing guns, 167; 
 flagstaff, 168; laying out the minia- 
 ture battlefield, 168. 
 
 Wash-boiler camp stove, 245. 
 Wash-boiler rack for cold-pack canning, 
 
 325- 
 
 Waste-basket, 82; a box, 106; another 
 design of, 113. 
 
 Watch base, an electric-lighted, 52. 
 
 Wax finish, 41. 
 
 Wheel-rack, 265. 
 
 Whisk-broom holder, 94. 
 
 Winder, a yarn, 89. 
 
 Winding-drums, 184. 
 
 Window flower-box, 310; feet, 311; 
 metal-liners, 314; surplus water, 315 ; 
 a satisfactory drain, 315; before 
 planting metal-lined boxes, 316. 
 
 Wireless aerial, toy battleship, 134, 150. 
 
 Woodpecker houses, 353; woodpecker 
 requirements, 353; woodpecker house 
 No. 1, 353; woodpecker house No. 2, 
 356. 
 
 Work-bench, the home, 1; an improvised 
 2; top for, 4; vise, 4; bench-stop, 6; 
 a, with adjustable vise, 6; bill of 
 material, 6; framework, 7; bench- 
 vise, 9; bench-screw, 9; to attach 
 bench-screw, 10; peg supports for 
 work, 12; bench-stop, 12; tool- 
 cabinets and tool-racks, 13; a table, 
 
 IS- 
 
 Work-bag on a folding support, 82; the 
 bag, 83. 
 
 Work box, fancy-, 84; covering, 85; a 
 cloth pocket and elastic tapes, 85; 
 spool spindles, 85. 
 
 Work box with legs, 85; covering, 86. 
 
 Work frame, fancy-, 77; spool spindles 
 for, 78. 
 
 Wren houses, 343; wren requirements, 
 343; wren house No. 1, 345; wren 
 house No. 2, 347; wren house No. 3, 
 347; finishing, 347. 
 
 Writing-desk, a packing-box, 97 ; pigeon- 
 holes, 99; finishing, 100. 
 
 Y 
 
 Yarn winder, 
 
Practical Plans for Work and Play with Many Ideas 
 for Earning Money 
 
 By A. NEELY HALL 
 
 Author of "The Boy Craftsman" 
 
 With Nearly 600 illustrations and Working-drawings by the Author and 
 Norman P. Hall 8vo Cloth Net, $2.00 Postpaid, $2.25 
 
 PHIS book is intended for boys who want the 
 
 *■ latest ideas for making things, practical 
 
 plans for earning money, up-to-date suggestions 
 
 for games and sports, and novelties for home 
 
 and school entertainments. 
 
 The author has planned the suggestions on 
 an economical basis, providing for the use of 
 the things at hand, and many of the things which 
 can be bought cheaply. Mr. Hall's books have 
 won the confidence of parents, who realize that 
 in giving them to their boys they are providing 
 wholesome occupations which will encourage self-reliance and resource- 
 fulness, and discourage tendencies to be extravagant. 
 
 Outdoor and indoor pastimes have been given equal attention, and 
 much of the work is closely allied to the studies of the modern gram- 
 mar and high schools, as will be seen by a glance at the following list 
 of subjects, which are only a few among those discussed in the 500 
 pages of text : 
 
 Manual Training; Easily-made Furniture; Fitting up a 
 Boy's Room ; Home-made Gymnasium Apparatus ; A Boy's 
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 Model Aeroplanes; Pushmobiles and Other Home-made 
 Wagons; A Castle Clubhouse and Home-made Armor. 
 Modern ingenious work such as the above cannot fail to develop me- 
 chanical ability in a boy, and this book will get right next to his heart. 
 
 "The book is a treasure house for boys who like to work with tools and have 
 a purpose in their working." — Springfield Union. 
 
 "It is a capital book for boys since it encourages them in wholesome, useful occu- 
 pation, encourages self-reliance and resourcefulness and at the same time discourages 
 extravagance. " — Brooklyn Times. 
 
 " It is all in this book, and if anything has got away from the author we do not 
 know what it is." — Buffalo News. 
 
 For sale by all booksellers, or seat on receipt of postpaid price by the publishers 
 
 LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 
 
E 
 
 Practical and Profitable Ideas for a Boy'i 
 Leisure Hotars 
 
 By A. NEELY HALL 
 
 Illustrated with over 400 diagrams and working 
 drawings 8vo Price, $2.00 
 
 'VERY real boy wishes to design and make 
 things, but the questions of materials and 
 tools are often hard to get around. In this book 
 a number of chapters give suggestions for car- 
 rying on a small business that will bring a boy in 
 money with which to buy tools and materials 
 necessary for making apparatus and articles 
 described in other chapters. No work of its 
 class is so completely up-to-date, the drawings 
 are profuse and excellent, and every feature of the book is first-class. 
 It tells how to make a boy's workshop, how to handle tools, and what 
 can be made with them ; how to start a printing shop and conduct an 
 amateur newspaper, to fit up a dark-room, build a log cabin, a 
 canvas canoe, a gymnasium, a miniature theatre, and many other 
 things dear to the soul of youth. 
 
 We cannot imagine a more delightful present for a boy than this book.— 
 Churchman, N. Y. 
 
 Every boy should have this book. It's a practical book — it gets right next to 
 the boy's heart and stays there. He will have it near him all the time, and on every 
 page there is a lesson or something that will stand the boy in good need. Beyond 
 a doubt in its line this is one of the cleverest books on the market. — Providence 
 News. 
 
 If a boy has any sort of a mechanical turn of mind, his parents should see that 
 he has this book. — Boston Journal. 
 
 This is a book that will do boys good. — Buffalo Express. 
 
 The boy who will not find this book a mine of joy and profit must be queerly 
 constituted. — Pittsburgh Gazette. 
 
 Will be a delight to the boy mechanic. — Watchman, Boston. 
 
 An admirable book to give a boy. — Newark News. 
 
 This book is the best yet offered for its large number of practical and profitable 
 ideas. — Milwaukee Free Press. 
 
 Parents ought to know of this book. — New York Globe. 
 
 For sale by all booksellers or sent postpaid on receipt of price by 
 
 the publishers, 
 
 LOTHROP. LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 
 
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