AND HAND BOOK Book I?O a Copyright N" COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. CALIFORNIA TOURIST GUIDE AND HANDBOOK AUTHENTIC DESCRIPTION OF ROUTES OF TRAVEL AND POINTS OF INTEREST IN CALIFORNIA [ ILLUSTRATED ] BY WELLS DRURY AND AUBREY DRURY Western Guidebook Company, Berkeley, California Copyright, 1913, by Western Guidebook Company All rights reserved; including translation Plan of the Work For the convenience of the reader, this guide book is ar- ranged in Routes, designated by numbers, and Side Trips, Indicated by letters. The Routes are generally on main lines of travel; the Side Trips are grouped under these chief head- ings, so that they may be referred to by the traveler, without loss of time. Prom the fact that parts of the State are de- scribed under Side Trip titles, it is not to be inferred that they are of minor interest. Some of the most inviting regions are more or less remote from the chief thoroughfares, and should be visited by those who desire to know California. After the names of places are figures in parentheses, which show the distance of the town or city from the place just pre- viously mentioned. The hotels are listed, with figures show- ing rates. A. P. means American plan; E. P. signifies Eu- ropean plan. Without these letters the rates are under the American plan. In order to facilitate use of the book as a work of refer- ence, the names of important places are printed in capital letters, and notable features of the different localities are distinguished by black-faced type. The reader is invited to use the table of contents and the index. Table of Contents Main Routes Designated by Numbers. Side Trips Indicated by Letters. Introduction 11 1. San Francisco 33 a. Mount Tamalpais Trip 64 b. Ocean Shore Trip 65 2. Tlie East Bay Cities 67 a. Oa-kland 68 b. Alameda 74 c. Berkeley 75 d. Richmond 82 3. San Francisco to San Jose 84 4. San Jose to Santa Cruz 9 4 a. Felton to Boulder Creek 100 b. Santa Cruz to Monterey 100 5. San Jose to Monterey : 101 a. Gilroy to Tres Pinos 110 b. Sargent to San Juan Bautista Ill 6. Monterey to San I^uis Obispo 113 a. King- City to Mission San Antonio 120 b. San Ijuis Obispo to Los Olivos 121 7. San Luis Obispo to Santa Barbara 123 8. Santa Ba.rbara to Los Angeles 130 a. Ventura to Nordhoff 133 b. Ventura to Los Ang-eles, via Santa Paula 135 9. Los Angeles 13C a. Pasadena and South Pasadena 148 b. San Gabriel 149 c. HollyAVOod 153 d. Santa Moni ca 154 e. Venice 155 f. Redondo 157 g-. San Pedro (Port Los Angeles) 158 h. Santa Catalina Island 160 i. Long- Beach 161 j. Naples, Huntington Beach, Ne-vvport 16 4 k. Mount Lowe 165 1. Mount Wilson 167 m. Other Side Trips 168 10. L,os Angeles to San Dieg-o 169 a. Oceansido to Pala 179 b. Oceanside to Fallbrook and Escondido 180 c. San Dieg-o to La Jolla 181 d. San Diego to Foster 182 e. San Diego to Tia, Juana 184 11. San Francisco to Sacramento 183 a. Port Costa to Stockton 19 4 b. Martinez to Divermore 195 c. Vallejo and Mare Island 197 d. Elniira to Rumscy 197 e. Woodland to Marysville 198 12. Sacramento to M.arysville 199 a. Marysville to Oroville 201 b. Marysville into Sierra County 202 13. Marysville to Redding 205 a. Redding to Lassen Peak 210 b. Redding to Weaverville 211 14. Redding to Oregon Line 212 15. AVoodiand to Red Bluff 217 16. Sacramento to Placerville 220 17. San Francisco to Napa and Clear Lake 223 18. San Francisco to .Santa Rosa 228 a. Sausaiito to Gazadero 232 b. San Rafael to Glen Ellen 233 c. Santa Rosa to Cazadero 234 19. Santa Rosa to Willits 236 a. Willits to Fort Bragg (California Western) 239 20. Willits to Eureka 240 21. W'estern Pacific Lines (Feather River Canyon) 243 22. Plumas Junction to Alturas 246 23. Sacramento to Truckee and Nevada Line 249 a. Colfax to Nevada City 253 24. San Francisco to Stockton 254 25. Stockton to Sacramento 259 a. Lodi to San Andreas 260 b. Gait to lone 260 26. Stockton to Fresno — East Route 261 a. Stockton to Merced, via Oakdale 267 b. Oakdale to Sonora 26S c. Merced to El Portal 274 d. Berenda to Raj^mond 277 27. Stockton to Fresno — West Route 278 28. Fresno to Bakersfield — Central Route 280 29. Fresno to Bakersfield — West Route 233 a. Hanford to Coaling-a 285 30. Fresno to Bakersfield — East Route 286 31. Bakersfield to Los Angeles 288 32. Los Angeles to Bishop (Owens River Valley) 291 3:^ Los Angeles to San Bernardino 299 a. San Bernardino to Riverside 303 b. Los Angeles to Riverside 308 c. San Bernardino to Redlands 309 d. Riverside to San Jacinto 311 e. Riverside to Lake Elsinore 312 34. San Bernardino to Yuma (Sunset Route) 313 35. San Bernardino to the East, via Barstow 317 36. Oakland to San Jose 319 37. Kings and Kern ili ver Canyons 320 38. Lake Tahoe 327 39. Yosemite Valley 332 40. After Leaving California 3 14 41. Coast Steamship Lines 346 42. Railways of California 34 6 Index 317 Illustrations and Maps 347 Introduction THE lure of California is the State itself. You will enjoy a tour within its boundaries; and v/hen the journey is com- pleted, whether by actually traversing its varied regions or by following in these pages the course described, you will be loth to say goodbye. Love of the free and open life of the country will grow upon you. A magnet which attracts the world, California contains every satisfying phase of climate and scenery to be found on the planet. Some liken the spell of California to the wile of the lotus; yet none may say where the lotus blooms — whether in the valley, on the mountainside, or in deep arroyo — by the sandy seashore or fringing peaceful inland lakes — among golden orange groves, in purpling vineyards, or beneath the lengthening shadows of sequoias. For the hundreds of thou- sands wiio each year are drawn hither by these charms, and for other thousands who are looking tovv^ard the Golden State, this book has been prepared. Commingling here and there a breath of the ancient romance with practical statistics dealing with present-day commercial and industrial development, the work is intended to be a complete guide to the features of pic- turesque beautj^ and unique interest which characterize the State. The history of California is articulate with records of heroic deeds. Its annals flow down to us in a continuous stream, freighted with tales of adventure of a once wild country. While yet the vast midland plains were haunted only by rov- ing bands of aborigines, California's valleys were graced by scenes of civilization and religious devotion. It is not an un- cultivated field to which you are invited. Here you will find many things new, many things ancient, historic, romantic, worthy of your notice. Fifty years after Columbus these shores were visited by the ships of Europe, and fiom those days to the present the attention of the world lias been di- verted hitherward Venerable and impressive even when in ruins, are the cloistered structures that mark from south to north, the progress of the Franciscans. California's mission towns are comparable to the cathederal towns of Europe more than anything else on the western continent. 12 Successive waves of population liave swept over these plains and mountains, contributing in changing types to a world of pageantry. There is no spot which is not doubly or triply enriched by elusive fragments of legend and fable. The characters in the columns of marchers have included the aboriginal tribes, and the pious padres of the missions, accompanied by the dominating Castilians and Catalans. In some restricted localities have been seen handfuls of the Czar's pioneers, contemporaneous with voyageurs and trap- pers of the Hudson Bay Company; tl'ere have been master traders from England and soldiers of fortune from other .,,.1 .'t'"'' ' ■'?.•'• iiitiiCtilllilSitil ■;'l*«(iisuiiii^R! ' •pj'iii.jiiiliH |JI||||!iilllll,j..f Los Angeles Court House and Hall of Records. climes, and finally the overwhelming influx of gold-diggers, and their successors. Now arrive the welcome tourists to reap the fruits of all their labors. These annals run back into the centuries. Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, in 154.2, sailed along the coast of California. In 1579 Sir Francis Drake, in the Golden Ilinde, explored this coast, and passing the Golden Gate without discovering it, stopped at Drake's Bay, while he refitted his ship. Here v/as celebrat- ed the first religious service ever held in the English language on American soil. Then came Sebastian Vizcaino, discoverer of Monterey Bay, in 1602-3. Settlement did not occur for many 13 as CQ 0) C CO ns CO 14 years, lout the coast was being explored by chance voyagers as they passed to and from the Philippines. Spanish dominion — at once military and religious — came in with Don Caspar de Portola and Padre Junlpero Serra, as the master minds. Too little credit has been given to the dauntless spirits that in distant lands led these forces. Historically, events may be referred to the Spanish advent already mentioned, to the coming of the Gringo, the Bear Flag revolution, the unfurling of the Stars and Stripes, the discovery of gold, the inrush of adventurers, violence of law-breakers, swift reprisal at the hands of the vigilantes, the civil war times, and the stream of gold and sil- ver that flowed into the Nation's treasury from California and Nevada, the building of the railroads, and finally to the devel- opment of today. California has a wealth of musical geographical names, and for this a debt of gratitude is due to those subjects of Castile and Leon who lavished so many flowers of speech on our towns and villages — some now grown to cities. Witness Los Angeles, El Portal, Palo Alto, San Felician, Camulos, Los Olivos, Ventura, San Francisco, Del Rosa, Sacramento, Santa Margarita, Alameda, Sonora, Solano, Rio Vista, Yerba Buena, .-tg^SK^'* »' 3> •">^->j|S Monterey Coast Scene. 15 Site of Panama-California Exposition — San Diego, 1915. Arroyo Grande, Playa del Rey, Benito, Lagunitas, Capistrano, Santa Maria, San Bernardino, Loma Prieta, Peralta, Mariposa, Monterey, Montara, and many otliers, California has developed a school of architecture that is clearly characteristic, growing naturally out of the lines that were adopted in the mission buildings. The modifications that 16 "^"^^'tU^ The Beach at Santa Cruz. have been wrought bv modern ideals have made less ponder- ous the colonnades, and have lifted the arches until they are freed from the massive outlines of their Moorish originals. Some of the most beautiful public buildings in California are of this class of architecture, which is recognized as well adapted to structures of moderate height; particularly school- houses, libraries and public halls. California may be said to be the only State in the Union with an architecture which is unquestionably distinctive. Mission San Juan Bautista. 17 u i 1. 4 r ^^ ^- It f r i !' 1: f: \l -■ t:.^ ■ '^ mil M...^/ rr_^:y. ! *^4f' irl-j^ ", Oakland's City Hall. IS Glimpse of Lake Tahoe. California inherited from the early Spanish settlers a le- gendary roadway called El Camino Real, sometimes referred to as the King's Highway. This served as the basis of a modern plan that has produced one of the best systems of roads in the United States. So great has been the development in this regard that an automobile recently made the run from Los Angeles to San Francisco in shorter time than the usual sched- ule of railroad trains between those cities. Bells made in imitation of those used at the old missions have been placed along the course of the ancient thorough- fare in some parts of the State. Along El Camino Real was founded a series of religious out- posts that gave to California a background of historical asso- ciations unexampled on the western continent. About the mis- sions and abroad in the State grew up institutions and customs which yield a wealth of local color — a mine delved in by writers for many years, but which appears to be inexhaustible. The more it is developed the richer it grows. It is the Mother Lode of poetry, art and romance of this occidental 19 land. Among those who have drawn copiously from California must he enrolled first Richard Henry Dana, who, in 1835, pro- duced a classic of Californiana in "Two Years Before the Mast." Others w^orthy of admittance to this company are Bret Harte, Mark Twain, Joaquin Miller, Charles Warren Stoddard, Dan Do Quille, Lieutenant George H. Derby, Am- brose Bierce, Arthur McEwen, Edward Rowland Sill, John Muir, John Swett, Galen Clark, Robert Louis Stevenson, John P. Young, Frank Norris, Edwin Markham, Helen Hunt Jack- son, Ina Coolbrith, Gertrude Atherton, George Sterling, Joseph T. Goodman, Gillett Burgess, Wallace Irwin, Will Irwin, Jack London, John Steven McGroarty, James Hopper, Philip Verrill Mighels, Charles K. Field, Richard Walton Tully, Eleanor Gates, Cora Older, Lillian Ferguson, Grace Hibbard, Miriam Michelson. Sam Davis, Robert H. Davis, Charles F. Lummis, Charles Frederick Holder, George Wharton James, Stevv'art Edward White, Peter B, Kyne, Bailey Millard, Charles Keeler, A. J. Waterhouse, George N. Lowe, Herman Whitaker. There are scores of other brilliant writers who hitherto have taken and who still take inspiration at this ancient but ever- renewing fountain. Feather River Canyon — On the Western Pacific. 20 21 For the restoration and preservation of California's his- toric relics, mnch is clue to the California Landmarks League, an organization fostered by the Society of California Pioneers and by the Native Sons of the Gold'en West and the Native Daughters of the Golden West. "In America, most places look alike — except in California," said James Bryce. the eminent British diplomat, approving the surprising variety of picturesque objects, artificial as well as natural, to be met with at all points in this State. Each town and city has something individual, and in this book an effort is made to indicate what may best deserve the consid- eration of the visitor. Minor places, more remote from the track of travel, are dealt with as carefully as are the well- known centers of population. The topography of California is treated in detail in this work. The general features, which cannot be described under any particular route or heading, require some attention. In the center of the state is a great valley region — in reality one valley, but locally divided into the Sacramento Valley and the San Joaquin Valley. In productiveness this vast region rivals the best lands to be found in the most favored garden spots of the world. East of this valley are the Sierra Nevada Moun- tains — the highest in the United States. To the west is the Coast Range — actually a continuous chain of mountains, though in different sections of the country it has local names, such as the Santa Lucia Range, the Gabilan Range, the Mount Diablo Range, the Mount Hamilton Range, and the like. Throughout the coast region and in the Sierra Nevada Moun- tains are many fertile valleys at various elevations. This diversity of topography lends charm to travel, and at the same time has much to do with California's agricultural and horticultural prosperity. There are many rivers, bays and lakes, California's Inland water surface having a greater area than is covered by some of the States. Without doubt this feature adds to the delight of a tour of the State, There are forests of redwood in the Coast Range, and other trees in all the mountains. The real Big Trees grow only in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Of all the States, California is second in size, having an area of 158,297 square miles, or 101.310,080 acres, of which 156,092 square miles, or 99,898.880 acres, are land surface, and 2,205 square miles, or 1,411,200 acres, are water surface. The coast line of this State on the Pacific Ocean is 1,200 miles in length. California is as large as all the New England States, New York, Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware and Mary- 22 Mount Shasta. land combined. California is almost as large as the German empire. It is as long as Norway, and nearly as long as France and Spain together. The combined length of England and Scotland is only half the length of California. A recent writer points out that Caesar, in all his travels to enlarge the boun- daries of the known world and extend the Roman dominion, was never as far from home as is a resident of Needles when he goes to Crescent City. These figures are impressive, yet this great commonwealth, so admirable is the system of roads, may be traversed with greater ease than many of the smaller states. Railways extend in every direction, the large rivers and lakes bear commodious passenger boats, and good thoroughfares give access by public and private conveyance to all parts of California. Mark Twain puts at the front of one of his books a de- scription of the weather, to serve for the entire volume. In like manner, California's climate may be considered at the outset, because the conditions here are of prime interest to the tourist. It is sufficient to set forth the fact that climatic 23 conditions offer facilities for outdoor sports most of the year. Championsliip polo tournaments are held during Thanksgiv- ing season, as well as in the early spring and summer. Tennis is played every month of the year. The professional baseball season opens April 1 and continues to October 15. California has outdoor climate without compare, calling the tourist to healthful activity and enjoyment on the mountains, in the valleys, along the seashore and among the islands. As an indication of the wonderful clarity of California's atmosphere under favorable conditions, it may be mentioned that the late Professor George Davidson declared that while standing on Mount Diablo one bright day in springtime, he was able to descry Mount Shasta to the northward, and look- ing to the southeastward he saw looming above the uplands what he believed to be the mighty form of Mount Whitney. Gabriel d'Annunzio recently announced a new drama in which he promises to glorify the climate of California, amid a setting of golden west scenes of unusual realism and splendor. The people of California are light-hearted, and the spirit of pageantry enters into their daily life to an unusual degree. This tends to a multiplicity of fiestas and celebrations, so that the pleasure-seeker in this State may enjoy some new amusement event almost every week in the year. Some of the prominent entertainments of this character are afforded by the following-named cities. Alhambra — City's Anniversary Celebration; Berkeley — Spring Musical Festival in the Greek Theater, big football game between University of California and Stanford University teams every other year on California Field (on the University campus). University Charter Day, Commencement ceremo- nies, September aquatic festival at municipal wharf, under direction of the Big Brother movement of the Berkeley Elks; Bishop — Owens Valley Harvest Festival; Carmel-by-the-Sea — Historical pageant, Carmel Mission episode; Cloverdale — Cit- rus fair; Concord — Walnut festival; Crescent City — Water Carnival; El Centre — Imperial County Fair; Elmhurst — Au- tumn Carnival; Escondido — Grapevine Festival on Admission Day; Fresno — Raisin Festival, Fresno County Agricultural Association, Fresno Poultry and Pet Stock Association, San Joaquin Valley Land and Products Show; Hanford — Kings Kounty Karnival, Kings County Fair; Hayv/ard — Springtime Festival; Healdsburg — Harvest Home and Water Carnival on Russian River; Holtville — New Year's Day Fiesta; Imperial^ Automobile races; Los Gates— Flag Day; Los Angeles— Fiesta 24 de las Flores, County Fair, Southern California Land Show; Los Banos — May Day celebration; Mendocino City— Mendo- cino Fair; Monte Rio — Water Carnival; Monterey — Fra Juni- pero Serra Day; Mount Tamalpais — Mountain Forest Play; Napa— Napa County Poultry Association Exhibition; Oak- land — Landing of Columbus, Alameda County Poultry Show; 25 Oroville — Water Carnival and Orange Exposition; Pacific Grove — Lantern Festival; Palo Alto— Founders' Day, also University Commencement, etc., big football game with Uni- versity of California alternate years; Pasadena — Tournament of Roses; Petaluma — Poultry Show; Phoenix, Arizona — Aztec Sun Fete; Pleasanton — Alameda County Fair; Redlands — 26 State Capitol at Sacramento. Flower Show; Riverside — Riverside Poultry Breeders' Show; Sacramento — State Fair, Annual Poultry and Pigeon Show, Annual trap shooting tournament, Greater California Winter Products and Land Show; Saint Helena — Vintage Festival; Salinas — Big Week, California Rodeo Days; San Bernardino — National Orange Show; San Biiena Ventura — San Miguel Day; San Diego — Cabrillo Celebration, San Diego County Fair, San Diego Fanciers' Association Show; San Francisco — Portola Festival, Mechanics' Fair and Electrical Exposition, California 27 Land Show; San Gabriel — Mission Play, the Passion Play of California; San Jose — Blossom Festival, annual show of the Santa Clara Valley Poultry Association, Santa Clara County Fair; San Leandro — Annual Cherry Festival "When cherries are ripe": San Rafael — Marin County District Fair; Santa Clara^ — Religious drama at the University of Santa Clara; Santa Cruz — Floral Show and Orchid Festival, Santa Cruz Poultry Association Show; Santa Rosa — Rose Festival, Har- vest Festival; Santa Monica — Automobile races; Sebastopol — Bridal Veil Falls, Yosemlte Valley. 28 Oranges and Snow — Southern California. Gravenstein Apple Show; Stockton — San Joaquin Poultry Association; Truckee — Ice Carnival, with sleighing, skating and skeeing; Ukiah — Hops Festival; Watsonville — State Apple Show, a Festival of the Apple; Pajaro Valley Poultry Associa; tion Show; Willits — Mendocino County Fair; Vacaville — Fruit Carnival; Ventura — San Miguel Day; Woodland — Yolo County Fair and races. For the purpose of weaving these local entertainments into a continuous chain of festivals, the California Celebra- tions Committee has been formed. The object is to co- ordinate these events so that the tourist who desires to wit- ness each day some new phase of California life may be able to do so without loss of time and with the greatest possible convenience and at minimum expense. Under this plan the dates are to be arranged so that there shall be no clash, and each city or section shall be represented in one continuous program, that will take the visitor from one part of the State 29 A Santa Cruz Big Tree. ao to another, following an uninterrupted round of pleasing events. Annual district fairs are held in several of the counties of California. It is usual to have racing at these fairs. Annual bench shows are held in San Francisco, Oakland, Los Angeles, Sacramento, Fresno, Eureka, Pasadena and Santa Cruz. Field trials at Bakersfield every autumn attract entries from all pa'"ts of the State. Holidays in California are designated by statute as fol- lows: Every Sunday; January 1, New Year's Day; February 12, Lincoln's Birthday; February 22, Washington's Birthday; Presidential primary election day, every fourth year preced- ing Presidential election; May 30, Memorial Day; July 4, In- dependence Day; First Monday in September, Labor Day; September primary election day, prior to general election; September 9, Admission Day; October 12, Discovery Day; Tuesday next succeeding first Monday in November in even numbered years, general election day; every day appointed by the President of the United States or the Governor of this State for a public fast, thanksgiving or holiday; December 25, Christmas; every Saturday afternoon in the public offices of the State. Whenever a holiday Calls on Sunday, the follow- ing Monday is a legal holiday. California is the goal of the sportsman, almost every va- riety of game being found here. Hunting and fishing may be enjoyed at any time during the open season. California is fairly honeycombed with organizations that may be applied to by tourists for data on local affairs. Every prominent city and town has a Chamber of Conjnierce or Board of Trade that supplies printed matter free of charge, and most of the first-class newspapers respond to questions verbal or Avritten. A central body for the dissemination of state-wide information is the California Development Board, Union Ferry Station at the foot of Market street. San Fran- cisco. Another important organization is the California Cele- brations Committf.e, with headquarters at 590' Pacific Electric Building, Los Angeles. The Southern Pacific, the Santa Fe Railway, and the Western Pacific Railway have established information bureaus for the accommodation of the traveling public. 31 Visitors from more populous States will be struck by pe- culiarities of nomenclature in the West. It will be noticed that, though California has many important centers of pop- ulation, in some instances small communities which else- where would be called "towns," are here called cities. On the contrary, elevations that easterners would call "moun- tains," are "hills" in California, and the "rivers" of the East are here called "creeks," "arroyos," or "streams." But however strange to tourists the names of natural objects may seem to be, and though the fragments of a foreign tongue are perpetuated in the names of our cities, the whole world knows ihat California speaks the universal language of good will and friendship, — ^that all who come are welcome. The scenes here enjoyed will live in pleasent memories, with longings to return to this land of sunshine. 32 Map of the San Francisco Bay Region 1 . San Francisco SAN FRANCISCO lies at the northern end of the penin- sula which reaches for thirty miles between the Pacific Ocean and the Bay of San Francisco. The metropolis of California, San Francisco is the largest city on the continent west of the Mississippi. It is the principal seaport on the Pacific Coast, owing its importance commercially to its strategic position, unexcelled harbor facilities and rich tributary re- gion. In the beauty of its location San Francisco is declared to be approached only by Constantinople and Rio de Janeiro. To the tourist and visitor, San Francisco is one of the most interesting of cities. Tt is cosmopolitan and yet it has a distinctive individuality of its own. To view adequately all of its attractions would require a fortnight, and a leisurely tourist may advantageously pass a month in trips through the city, its sister communities about the bay and the sur- rounding region; descriptions of these journeys will be found in this booK. San Francisco itself will interest the Easterner because it is typical of the West — its social and economic metropolis. Its public buildings, its civic center, its com- merce and shipping, its industries, its splendid beaches, parks and boulevards, business section, restaurants and cafes, hotels, theaters, libraries, museums, monuments, art galleries, recreation grounds, places of amusement, military establish- ments, residential districts, and above all the Panama Pacific International Exposition which will be held in 1915 — all these will attract and hold the visitor. San Francisco was the eleventh city in size in the United States by the census of 1910. at that time having 416,912 in- habitants. The population now is nearly 500,000. The city ranks fifth among the ports of the United Stales in imports; their value in 1912 was $62,744,188. Foreign exports by sea of domestic goods from San Francisco amounted to $54,707,850 in 1912. There were 1,795 manufacturing establishments in 1909, the value of their products totaling $132,929,000. TTie building contracts for 1912, exclusive of municipal structures, amounted to $26,269,006. The area of the city and county of San Francisco is 46^/^ square miles. There are 32 parks and squares, with a total area of 1,398.6 acres; 110 public schools and 26 private schools; 360 miles of paved streets, 315 miles of sewers and 278 miles of street railway lines. There are 38 religious denominations, represented by 208 churches. There are 37 banks and nine branch establishments, with a total capital, surplus and undivided profits of $80,727,948. The savings deposits in 1912 amounted to $189,714,076. The climate of San Francisco is bracing. Cool in summer, but never excessively cold in winter, the weather is uniformly- invigorating. The lowest temperature ever recorded by the United States Weather Bureau was 29 degrees above zero. The average winter temperature is 51 degrees above; the average summer temperature is 59 degrees above. The city has more hours of sunshine yearly than Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago. P'.ttsburg or St. Louis, while the latitude is that of Granada, Palermo and Athens. Snow has fallen but six times in the city's history. The healthfulness of San Francisco is due in a large degree to the sweeping winds from the ocean and the excellent drainage resulting from the many hills and the sandy sub-soil. The history of San Fr?ncisco begins with 1769, when the expedition of Caspar de Portola, governor of California, dis- covered San Francisco Bay and camped near the site of the present city. In 1775 the ship "San Carlos," commanded by Don Juan Manuel de Ayala, entered the harbor, the first vessel to sail the waters of the bay, Ayala explored and charted the harbor for some days, returning to Monterey with an account of the region. In 1776 an expedition arrived from Monterey, and the Presidio was established; on October 9 of that year the Mission San Francisco d'Asis (Mission Dolores) was founded (see p. 44). About the presidio and mission small settlements grew up. In 1835 a trading post was established on Yerba Buena cove, which formerly in- dented the bay shore, extending up to what is now Montgom- ery street, between Jackson and Washington streets. Most of the peninsula was then covered with brush and drifting sand. The name first given to this settlement was Yerba Buena (in Spanish signifying "good herb"), but in 1847 the nam.e San Franciwco was substituted. There were a number of Americans here before occupation of California by the United States, and with the discovery of gold the city grew rapidly. In ,1850 the population was 34,000, and on April 15 of that year San Francisco was incorporated as a town. The rough element which was attracted to the city in the gold excitement gave much trouble in the early days, and in 1851 the citizens formed a Vigilance Committee, which took con- trol of the city's affairs. Again in 1856 the Vigilantes assumed command for several months. The commercial importance of San Francisco was early recognized, and it became the most populous city of California. In 1S80 there were 233,595 in- habitants; in 1890, 298,997; in 1900, 342,782. On April 18, 1906, a severe earthquake shook the city and the business 35 section and part of the residence section were destroyed in one of the greatest fires oi history. The fire was the result of the disruption of the water mains by the earthquake at a point where they crossed several miles of marshy land. The new business section, which rapidly arose from the ruins of the old, is modern in every respect, its freshness, brightness and cleanliness making it attractive to visitors. Despite the setback caused by the fire, San Francisco has progressed steadily and the population has increased, until it now num- bers almost half a million. The year 1915 will mark one of the greatest achievements in the history of San Fl'ancisco^ when the gates of the Panama Pacific Exposition are thrown open to the vrorld. The oldest and most thickly settled part of San Francisco faces the bay, though of recent years the city has been ex- panding to the west and south. TTie district immediately at the edge of the Golden Gate is occupied by the Presidio Mil- itary Reservation. There are a number of districts in the citv which are more or less arbitrary in their boundaries, yet which are well recognized locally. The eastern part of the city is divided into two distinct portions, known as North of Market and South of Market. The Mission District is the western part of the latter division, extending beyond the present end of Market street; it received its name because this territory was once part of the property of the Mission Dolores. The Potrero lies beyond Bryant street and extends to South San Francisco. The Potrero was formerly the cattle farm of the Mission Dolores, as signified by its Spanish name. The Western Addition lies between Larkin street and Golden Gate Park. The Riclimond District lies to north of the Park, and the Sunset District to the south of it. San Francisco is essentially a maritime city, and by its situation is especially adapted to carrying on an extensive commerce. The Bay of San Francisco is the largest land- locked harbor in the world. On its shores are the cities of San Francisco, Oakland, Emeryville, Berkeley, Albany, Ala- meda, Richmond, Vallejo, Sausalito and San Jose, besides many smaller communities. The bay is almost 70 miles long and from 4 to 10 miles wide. T'he area is about 450 square miles and the length of shore line is 231 miles. The magni- tude of the harbor facilities may be judged by the fact that all the navies and merchant ships of the world could easily find anchorage together in the bay. The upper or eastern part of San Francisco bay is divided into two smaller bodies of water, called San Pablo bay and Suisun bay. Into the latter flow the combined waters of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. The entrance to San Francisco bay is the 36 Golden Gate. This strait, lying to the north of San Francisco, is one mile across at its narrowest part, between Fort Point and Lime Point. It is said to have been named by General John C. Fremont. San Francisco's waterfront and docks extend along the bay shore north and south from the Ferry building at the foot of Market street. Ships and sailors from all quarters of the globe are seen here, and the flags of ell nations fiy from the mastheads. There are usually battleships of the Amer- ican navy lying in the stream, and these may be visited, the boat fare being fifty cents (or "four bits," in Western phrase). The Sea Wall extends from the Ferry building to Taylor street, and to one interested in shipping it is well worth visiting (lake Kearny street car to North Beach and walk to the Ferry). San Francisco's commerce is expanding rapidly and the awakening of the Orient, the development of American dependencies in the Pacific and the opening of the Panama Canal will vastly increase the city's maritime importance. For the accommodation of the augmented traffic, five new piers south of the Ferry building and seven to the north are planned, with five ferry slips added. Work on several of these piers is now going on. Among the steamship lines which have docks along the waterfront are the Pacific Navigation Company, Pacific Coast Steamship Company, North Pacific Steamship Company, Monticello Steamship Company, Kosmos Line, Oceanic Steamship Company, Amer- ican-Hawaiian Steamship Company, Arrow Line, Alaska Pa- cific, Independent Steamship Company, Union Steamship Company, Western Pacific, Matson Navigation Company, Portland Steamship Company, San Francisco & Portland Line, Pacific Mail, Napa Transportation Company, Toyo Kisen Kaisha (Oriental Steamship Company), Higgins Steamship Line, Creek Route, Olson & Mahony Company, and the various lines of river steamers. Tlie transport docks, owned by the government, are at Fort Mason. The thoroughfare loading along the waterfront is known as The Embarcadero. The principal business thoroughfare of San Francisco is Market street, extending in a gradual ascent from the bay al- most to Twin Peaks. The street runs in a southwesterly direction from the ferries, and almost throughout its entire length is flanked by modern business structures of imposing architecture. At the foot of Market street is the Ferry Building (Union Ferry Depot), with its high clock-tower, a distinctive feature Section of San Francisco's Down-Town District. of San Francisco's skyline from the bay. The building was erected in 1896 at a cost of $1,000',000; it is constructed of gray sandstone with marble panels and wainscots. The clock in the tower is 23 1/^ feet in diameter. During civic celebra- tions the clock and tov.er are outlined with thousands of incandescent electric lights, presenting a brilliant display at night. The building is used as a terminal by the Southern Pacific, Santa Fe, Western Pacific, Northwestern Pacific rail- roads and the Key Route lines. The building contains all the conveniences required by the traveling public. In the main room on the second floor (reached by central staircases) great public receptions and flower shows have been held. From here easy staircases lead to the displays of the Cal- ifornia Development Board and the State Mining Bureau (both admission free), where there are extensive and instructive exhibits of the agricultural, horticultural and mineral products of California. Free lectures on the state's resources are given here every afternoon from two to four o'clock; the talks are illustrated with lantern slides. Between the stairways lead- ing to these exhibits is the entrance to a commodious ladies' resting room. On the second floor of the Ferry Building also g,re the offices of the California State Harbor Commission and the Sta;;e Horticultural Commissioner. The Ferry Build- ing is reached direct by the following street-car lines: T'urk and Eddy, McAllister, Hayes, Haight, Market, Valencia, Guer- rero, Mission and Twenty-fourth, Ingleside, Cemeteries. Ocean View, Kentucky, Howard, Folsom, Harrison, Sacramento cable and the municipal Geary-street road. Along Market street there are many points of interest to the tourist. Among the larger office buildings on Market street are the Balboa, Monadnock, Phelan, Flood, Call, Chronicle. Examiner, Commercial, Pacific, Westbank, Hewes, Western Metropolis Bank, Crocker National Bank, Humboldt Savings Bank, Grant and Mechanics buildings; there are also theaters, hotels and department stores. Temple-like stone structures of remarkable design are the homes of the Union Trust and the Savings Union Bank and Trust Companies at Market street and Grant avenue, the Hibernia Savings Bank at Market ind McAllister. The Flood Building, at the north- east corner of Powell and Market, is the largest office build- ing west of Chicago; it contains 900 rooms. The Pacific Building, at Fourth street, is the largest armored concrete office strunure in the world. On the south side of Market at the corner of New Montgomery is the Palace Hotel, a luxurious and famous hostelry on the site of the "old Palace." celebrated in the early history of San Francisco. 39 At the junction of Bush and Battery streets with Market, opposite First street, is the Donahue Fountain. The heroic bronze group in the center is tlie work of Douglas Tilden. This is one of the finest examples of plastic art in the city. Tlie sratuaiy group represents four artisans at work punch- ing rivet holes in a piece of ship plate. The Donahue Monu- ment is dedicated to Mechonics, by James Mervyn Donahue m memory of his father. Peter Donahue, one of the founders of the Union Iron Works. One of the busiest corners of the city is at the intersection of Kearny. Third and Market streets. Here is the so-called Nevyspaper Row, Vvith the large buildings housing the "Call," "Chronicle" and "Examiner," San Francisco's leading morning newspapers. The flowei' markets, so popular with all visitors to the city, are at the mtersection of Geary and Market streets, extending along Kearny street. At this corner is Lotta's Fouritain, one of the city's familiar objects. It was r-resented to the municipality in 1876 by the actress, Lotta Crabtree, one of San Francisco's favorites in the early days. Luisa Tetrazzini sang at Lotta's Fountain on Christmas Eve, 1910, to a crowd of 100,000 people. At the junction of Market street with Turk and Mason is the Native Sons Monument, commemorating the admission of California tc the Union as a state, September 9, 1850. It is the gift to the city of James D. Phelan, former mayor of San Francisco, and dedicated to the Native Sons of the Golden West; it was unveiled on Admission Day, 1897. The monu- ment is the work of Douglas Tilden, the Californian sculptor. Farther out Market street is Marshall Square, at the entrance to the old City Hall site. Here is the James Lick Monument to the Pioneers, typifying the growth of the state; a heroic figure of California surmounts the group. The sculptor was Frank Happersberger, a native Californian. Before the mon- nment stands a bronze cannon captured by American troops from the Spaniards at Santiago de Cuba in 1898. Marshall Square and the old City Hall tite will form part of the Civic Center, for which $8,000,000 has been voted. Around the central plaza will be grouped one of the most notable assemblages of public buildings in America. The City Hall, to cost $4,000,000, will occupy the western side. South of the plaza an auditorium, capable of holding 14,009 people, is being erected by the Panama-Pacific Exposition Company at a cost of $1,000,000. This will be turned over to the municipality after 1915. On other sides of the park EXPLANATIONS STRCCT CAR LINES SHOWN ^""» OIRtCTION OF CARS INDICATCO Br ARROW 42 will be the Municipal Opera House, provided for by public subscription, $1,000,000 having been given for this purpose, and the $1,000,000 Public Library. It is expected also that a Museum of Art and a State building v/ill be erected at the Civic Center. All the buildings Mill be architecturally impressive and bnilt along classic lines. The completion of the City Hall by .fanuary 1, 1915, is expected. The Volunteers Monument is situated at Market street and Van Ness avenue. This graceful and inspiring statuary group was erected by the citizens of San Francisco in honor of the California volunteers who served in the Spanish- American war of 1898. On the Civic Center site al present is the Hall of Records, a domed building constructed along the same lines as the City Hall, to which it was formerly joined by an arcade. Near here, also, is the temporary Public Library, on Hayes street near Van Ness avenue; there are six branches, situated at 1207 Valencia street. Pond and Sixteenth streets, 254 Fourth avenue, 1547 Powell street, 24 Sacramento street and Page street near Cole. These are open daily from 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. The Sutro Library, consisting of 125,000 volumes collected by Adolph Sutro, former m.ayor of San Francisco, has been made a part of the State Library by gift of his heirs, and a building will be erected in San Francisco to hoase this collection. The Mechanics-Mercantile Library has a collection of over 50,000 volumes in its handsome and commodious new building at 57 Post street. The French Library is the largest collection of foreign books in the city, the Ligtie Nationale Francaise hav- ing over 11,000 volumes at their building, 126 Post street. There are also small libraries of Hungarian, Polish, Swedish, Japanese and German books in the city. Besides the non- technical libraries there are large collections of law and medical books at various institutions. The Levi Cooper Lane Medical Library of Medicine and Surgery is on Sacra- mento and Webster streets, opposite the Cooper Medical Col- lege. It is declared to be the finest medical library west of Chicago; the collection numbers over 40,000 volumes. TTiis institution and the Medical College are affiliated with Stan- ford University. At the temporary City Hall, 1231 Market street, besides the offices of the city officials there is the San Francisco Law Library, consisting of 26,500 volumes. The United States Mint is of unusual interest to tourists. This structure, at the corner of Fifth and Mission streets, was erected in 1874. It is the second largest in the country, being exceeded in size only by the Philadelphia mint. In ad- dition to minting money for the United States, the coin for 43 the Philippine Islands is produced here, as well as that of minor American republics, such as Salvador. There is a large and interesting oxhibit of ancient coins in the office. The hours for visitors are from 9 to 11:30 a. m. and from 1 to 2:30 p. m., excepting Sundays and holidays. The processes of manufacture are explained by courteous attendants, who escort visitors through the various departments. The Postoffice is one of the handsomest government build- ings in the country, costing with its grounds $5, 000, 000. It is fc^ituated at the corner of Mission and Seventh streets (take Market or Missicn street cars). Tt is built of white granite, decorated within with costly marbles, polished woods, mo- saics, stucco work and wrought metal. Besides the postoffice departments this building contains the Federal courts. The Custom House is situated on Battery street between Wash- ington and Jackson. It is a handsome white granite structure begun in 1906 and completed during the following five years. The cost was $1,500,000. Here are the headquarters of the principal customs officials, as well as the offices of many of the Federal administrative bureaus, including the Immigra- tion Service, Geological Survey, Coast Geodetic Stirvey, Army Corps of Engineers, Naval Engineers. United States Land Office, Lighthouse Service, Bureati of Fisheries, Internal Rev- enue Service, Steamboat Inspection Service, Revenue Cutter Service, Rivers and Harbors Service, Naval Officers, Federal Bureati of Mines, Bureau of Statistics of the Department of Agriculture and others. There are 208 churches in. San Fi^ancisco, representing 38 denominations. There are a great number of handsome church structures. T'he Howard Street Methodist Church, situated at Howard and Harriet streets, is called The Church of the Stranger, because of its situation near the hotel dis- trict. The Trinity Episcopal Church is a massive stone build- ing at the corner of Bush and Gough streets; St. Luke's is a new church of the same denomination at the corner of Van Ness avenue and Clay street. The Grace Episcopal Pro- Cathedral will occupy the block between California and Sac- ramento streets at the summit of Nob Hill, and when com- pleted its tower will be one of the landmarks of the city. St. Mary's Roman Catholic Cathedral is an imposing structure at the corner of Van Ness avenue and O'Farrell street. Old St. Mary's, once the cathedral church, is one of the historic houses of worship in the city. The Church of St. Ignatius is a handsome building of brick and steel being erected by the Jesuits on the summit of the Fulton-street hill, a commanding situation rising above the western portion of the city. The First Congregational is a down-town church, situated on the 44 corner of Mason and Post streets; the congregation is soon to build a fine new structure on or near the present site. The First Methodist church, at Clay and Larkin streets, is one of the oldest religious organizations in San Francisco. The First Baptist church is located on the corner of Waller and Octavia streets, near Market. The First Presbyterian church is a new edifice at Van Ness avenue and Sacramento street. Calvary Presbyterian is an imposing stone church at the corner of Fillmore and Jackson streets. The First Unitarian church, on Geary and Franklin streets, is another fine struc- ture. TTie First Church of Christ, Scientist, is at California and Franklin streets. Trinity Cathedral, at Van Ness avenue and Green street, is one of the four Greek Catholic cathedrals in the United States. The Congregation Emanu-el (414 Sutter) and Temple Sherith Israel (California and Webster) are two handsome Jewish synagogues. These are only a few of the houses of worship of the city; a fuller list may be found in the Saturday daily newspapers or in the city di- rectory. The oldest church in the city is, of course, the Mission Dolores (San Francisco d'Asis). The mission is now in the heart of the city at Sixteenth and Dolores streets (reached by Guerrero, Eighteenth and Park, Fillmore and Sixteenth or Mission and Richmond car lines). This was the sixth mission founded by the Franciscans in California; it was formally ded- icated October 9, 1776, by Father Palou. The name Nuestra Senora de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows), was first given to a lagoon, beside which the buildings of the mission were erected; this lagoon, now filled in, once occupied the tract be- tween Seventeenth, Nineteenth, Valencia and Howard streets. Mission Dolores was never very prosperous; the total number of baptisms was 6,883. Tlie mission establishment originally consisted of a number of adobe structures, with tiled roofs; at present only the church is standing. The cornerstone was laid and the church dedicated in 1782. The architecture is somewhat different from that of the majority of the mis- sions, being a combination of the Moorish, Mission and Cor- inthian styles. The facade is adorned with four massive pil- lars; arched doorway, with four niches above, in which hang the bells; the roof is tiled. The interior is practically un- changed, although tlie main altar is modern. The two side altars are decorated with groups of saints; the empty niches in the walls were formerly occupied by images. The altar decorations were imported from Spain and Mexico. The rough-hewn rafters are painted in diamond-shaped patterns of red, white, yellow and blue. The roof timbers of the mission are held together as of old by rawhide thongs, which were 45 used in place of nails. The walls at the end of the chapel, hack of the main altar are elaborately carved and painted in dull red and gold; all this is the work of the Indian converts. In the sacristy may be seen many interesting relics of the old mission days. The grave of Father Carroll, a man well- beloved by the early Franciscans, is in the sanctuary. The little graveyard at the side of the church is the resting place of over 2,000 bodies. Only a few of the graves are marked. The most notable monument is that of Don Luis Antonio Ar- guello, the first Mexican governor of California (1822-1825). About the mission in the early days there grew up a com- munity distinct from that at the Presidio and the Pueblo of Yerba Buena. In 1802 there were 800 Indians living in the vicinity. Though the original settlements have grown to- gether, the Mission District still retains a certain individuality. It ranks as a residence section, with its own business cer- ter (mainly along Mission and Valencia streets), its own the- aters, banks, shops and churches. This section is known locally as "the Mission," and its climate is the mildest in the city. Mission Park, occupying part of the reclaimed Laguna de los Dolores, is situated between Church and Dolores, Eighteenth and Twentieth streets. Besides lawns and shrub- bery, the park contains athletic fields. The Mission High School faces the park. Above the Mission District rise the Twin Peaks (reached by Castro and Eighteenth and Park line). TTiese hills are the highest in the city, and from here there is a magnificent view over the city, bay and surrounding country. Twin Peaks are situated almost at the head of Market street. It is planned to cut a tunnel through Twin Peaks and extend this thoroughfare to the ocean. Chinatown, the Chinese quarter of San Francisco, always holds much interest foi visitors. The district is bounded by Dupont, Stockton, California and Pacific streets and the Chi- nese population is close to 15,0'00. It is the largest Chinese quarter in America. The main thoroughfare is along Dupont street, a continuation of Grant avenue. Here are the bazaars and shops containing the varied artistic wares of the Orient. The Chinese retain their native costumes and manners; the community is largely under the control of the council of the "Six Companies," a powerful commercial organization, though this government is not recognized by the American authori- ties. Many of the buildings are typically Chinese in architec- ture; before the fire of 1906 this was not the case, but the destruction of the old structures enabled the owners to erect HOTEL REGENTi COLdlillALHOTELlil PgOTinl^^ls 15 SULTAN BATHS NtON SQUARE ^ I fP ] B Lf* ^ HOT| L I 5B j. |WHI TE HOUSE O'rARIUUX COLUMBIA THEATRE GRANDWTEL Retail Shopping District, San Francisco. 47 new ones of more Oriental design. By day the stranger can safely visit Chinatown, but at night (the most interesting lime) a guide is needed, and may be engaged at any promi- neni hotel. The parties of visitors are conducted into the Chinese Joss House (temple), the opium dens and dwelling houses. T'ho tailors, barbers and cigar-makers and other Chi- nese artisans at work are interesting, their methods differing considerably from those of the Occident. The Chinese mu- sicians with their crude and strange-sounding instruments should be heard. The curio stores, drug shops, markets and restaurants of Chinatown contain many things to attract the visitor. On the southern border of Chinatown is Portsmouth Square, bounded by Kearny, Clay and Washington streets (take Kearny-street cars). One of the historic spots of San Francisco, it was once the center of the city life and known as the Plaza. Here the American flag was raised over the city, July S, 1846, by Captain Montgomery of the sloop-of-war "Portsmouth." Portsmouth Square is most famous, however, as the favorite haunt of Robert Louis Stevenson when a resi- dent of San Francisco in 1879. In the park is an artistic monument to Stevenson, unveiled in 1897, surmounted by a golden galleon in full sail, the "Hispaniola" of "Treasure Island." The inscription is a quotation from Stevenson's "Christmas Sermon," beginning, "To be honest, to be kind." Portsmouth Square contained the first custom house in San Francisco, and in the "days of gold" a hotel was built on the square at a cost of $30,000, which rented for $15,000 a month. Here the Vigilantes of the early days met to punish law- breakers. The new Hall of Justice, one of the finest of the city's public buildings, is on Kearny street, opposite the square; the uppe: story is the city prison. North of Portsmouth Square is the "Latin Quarter," gen- erally known as "Little Italy." Telegraph Hill rises in the midst of this section (take Kearny-street cars to Union street). From here is afforded a fine view of the city, bay and surrounding country. T'he hill received its name from the tiag-telegraph station established on its top, which in. early times informed the city below of the entrance of ships into the Golden Gate. The hill reaches almost to the waterfront. Here, at North Beach, is Fislnerman's Wharf, the picturesque landing-place of the Italian fishermen (take Powell or Kearny-street cars, northbound). About 175 craft find an- chorage here, but the famous lateen sails of the Genoese are disappearing, supplanted by the gasoline motor. All the men employed, fishermen, boat-builders and blacksmiths, are Ital- ian, still retaining the costume, manners and speech of their 48 native country. The best day to visit Fishermen's Wharf is Thursday, when the biggest catches of rock-cod, smelt, striped bass and crabs are brought from Drake's bay and other fish- ing grounds; but the vicinity is always full of activity and interest. West of Telegraph Hill is Russian Hill, vrhich received ita name from the Russian cemetery on its upper slopes in the days before the American occupation (take Ninth and Polk street line). From the summit at Broadway and Jones street there is a fine view over the city and bay. Russian Hill has long been distinguished by the presence of a colony of artists and literary workers. The houses on the summit were saved by strenuous efforts from the fire of 1006. Southwest of Telegraph Hill and southeast of Russian Hill is Nob Hill, occupying the area from California to Wash- ington and from Powell to Leavenworth streets. The hill is reached by three lines cf cable-driven cars running on Powell street, Sacramento street and California street. The cable- car is a San Francisco invention (originated by the late A. S. Hallidie) and is of great value in making accessible the city's many hills. On Nob hill were residences of the early millionaires of the Comstock mines and the Central Pacific railroad, such as Governor (afterwards Senator) Leland Stan- ford, Mark Hopkins, C. P. Huntington, the Crockers, James Flood and others. The great Fairmont Hotel, occupying an en- tire block, is a notable landmark of the city. It is one of the most beautiful hotels in the world in architecture and in situation. Opposite the Fairmont on Powell street is the University Club. At Bush and Powell are the Family Club and the handsome building of the Elks. The Pacific-Union Club occupies the old Flood residence, opposite the Fairmont Hotel. Directly west of Nob Hill is the Pacific Heigiits dis- trict, a residential section of wealthy San Franciscans. On the site of the Mark Hopkins home (corner of California and Mason) is the San Francisco Institute of Art (open daily, ex- cept Sunday, 9 to 5; admission 25 cents, free on Tuesdays and Fridays). Another famous hill is Rincon Hill, south of Market and east of Third street. In the early days this was the fashion- able residence district of the city, but its slory began to wane before 1870. The home of General William Tecumseh Sher- man was at Harrison and Fremont streets, and that of Gen- eral Halleck, built in 1849, directly opposite. Governor Le- land Stanford also had a mansion here. Gertrude Atherton was born on Rincon Hill, aud in its early days Bret Harte and Mark Twain were entertained there. TTie hill is divided by 49 a deep cut through which Second street passes, and will soon be levelled entirely to make room for warehouses and other commercial structures. Rincon Hill got its name (in Span- ish signifying "corner") from a spur which once jutted into the bay before this part of the waterfront was filled in. The public parks of San Francisco number thirty-two in all. They are scattered throughout the city, most of them are im]>roved and form attractive beauty-spots in the business and residential districts. The following is a list of the prin- cipal parks and squares: Alamo Square (Steiner, Scott, Hayes and Fulton streets), Alta Plaza (Steiner, Scott, Clay and Jackson), Bernal Park (Folsom and Alabama, south of Precita avenue), Buena Vista Park (south of Haight, between Broderick and Central avenue), Columbia Park (Folsom, Har- bison, Sixth and Seventh), Duboce Park (between Steiner and Scott, north of Duboce avenue), Franklin Square (Bryant, Hampshire, Sixteenth and Seventeenth), Garfield Square (Har- rison, Treat avenue, Twenty-fifth and Twenty-sixth streets), Golden Gate Park (between Fulton and H streets, Stanyan to the ocean), Hamilton Square (Steiner, Scott, Geary and Post), Holly Park (southwest of Bernal Heights, surrounded by Holly Park avenue), Jefferson Square (Gough, Laguna, Golden Gate avenue and Eddy), Lafayette Park (Gough, Laguna, Sac- ramenio and Washington), Lincoln Park (on Point Lobos), Lobos Square (Chestnut, Bay, Laguna and Webster), Marshall Square (Market to City Hall avenue, opposite Eighth), Mis- sion Park (Church, Dolores, Eighteenth and Twentieth), Mountain Lake Park (north from Lake, between Eighth and Fourteenth avenues). Pioneer Park (Montgomery, Kearny» Filbert and Greenwich), Portsmouth Square (Clay, Washing- ton, Kearny and Brenham Place), South Park (Bryant, Braii- nan, Second and Third), Sunnyside Park (Stanyan, Twin Peaks avenue. Thirty-second and Thirty-third streets). Union Square (Geary, Post, Stockton and Powell) and Washington Park (Union, Filbert, Stockton, Montgomery avenue and Powell). Union Square is in the center of the business district, a delightful breathing-space in the midst of the thronged streets. In the center is the monument in commemoration of the vic- tory of Admiral Dewey in Manila Bay, May 1, 1898. President McKinley broke ground for the Dewey monument in 1901; it was dedicated in 1903 by President Roosevelt. The monument was designed by Newton Tharp; the figure of Victory sur- mounting the tall column is the work of Robert Aitkin, Fac- ing Union Square, on Powell street, is the St. Francis Hotel, one of the finest of San Francisco. With the completion of 50 the fourth wing, now being added, there will be one thousand rooms and suites. It will then be the largest hotel west of New York. Many of the San Francisco parks are in commanding situations upon the hills. From these there are excellent views over the city, hills and bay; among the most accessible are Alta Plaza, Alamo Square, Jefferson Square (Eddy street side), Lafayette Square (on Clay street hill) and Pioneer Park (on Telegraph Hill). As its Spanish name ("good view") indicates, there is a superb outlook over the city from Buena Vista Park, situated at an elevation of 578 feet above sea level; this is one of the most finely improved parks of the city. Holly Park is near Bernal Heights, where there is a colossal Statue of Liberty. Recreation Park, San Francisco's baseball grounds, is situated at Fifteenth and Valencia streets (take Valencia. Guerrero or Eighteenth and Park car lines). Baseball is played here every afternoon during the season, except Mondays and Thursdays; games commence at 3 o'clock except on Saturday and Sunday, w^hen they begin at 2:30 p. m. San Francisco's baseball is furnished by the fast Pacific Coast League (Class AA). The largest park of San Francisco is Golden Gate Park (see map), which the tourist should not fail to visit. Half a day at least should be spent at this attractive spot. A delightful way to pass a day is to visit the park in the morning and the Ocean Beach in the afternoon, though an entire day is not too much to devote to either place. All trolley cars reach or transfer to Golden Gate Park. Those lines which take the visitor to the park direct are the Turk and Eddy, Hayes, Ellis and Ocean, McAllister, Haight, Hayes and Ellis, Eighteenth and Park and the Geary street municipal line. Golden Gate Park consists of 1013 acres, most of the tract in a high state of cultivation, with artificial lakes and lakelets scattered over its surface.- In 1870, when the reclam- ation of this area was commenced, it was a desolate expanse of sand-hills, as indeed was once almost the entire peninsula of San Francisco. Golden Gate Park is declared by travelers to be one of the finest municipal playgrounds in the world; it is the third largest in size. It fronts on the ocean, but extends far into the city; a continuation, one block wide, known as the Panhandle, reaches several blocks through the residence districts. It is four miles from the Panhandle en- trance to the Pacific Ocean, The park has seventeen miles of finely improved driveways, bordered by trees and shrub- bery brought from all parts of the globe. The beds of richly colored flowers which adorn the lawns are in bloom through- out the year, in winter as in summer. 51 In the Conservatory are many of the rarer exotic plants, especially orchids, begonias, palms and ferns in great variety. Near the Conservatory, to the east, is the Arizona Garden. The Bamboo Grove and Australian Tea-trees are also of in- terest. The great Aviary, an inclosed space in part sur- rounded by glass, contains a collection of rare birds; more than a thousand canaries live here amid natural surround- ings, and the sundown song of this myriad of warblers is a pleasing feature of the Aviary. The park contains a large collection of animals, kept in paddocks and pens throughout its area. The Deer Park is. not far west of the Children's Playground, and besides sev- eral varieties of deer, contains a number of antelope. The elk, numbering about fifty, are in an enclosure west of Stow lake and north of the South Drive. The enclosures contain- ing the kangaroos, brought from Australia, and the moose, brought from Alaska, are near the Deer Park. There are three Buffalo Paddocks — one between the Aviary and the deer, a second near the quarry and another west of the Chain of Lakes. The enclosure containing several species of bear is near the Buffalo Paddock. Other animals are in different parts of the park. Large birds not in the aviary, but having special enclosures, are the ostriches, peacocks and pheasants. The Cliildrens Playground, near the Haight-street en- trance, contains swings, slides, teeters and a merry-go-round for the amusement of the little ones. They also enjoy rides on the goats and donkeys. Nearby, in the handsome brown- stone building donated to the children by the late William Sharon, is a restaurant; in the ba3ement tea, chocolate and coffee, sandwiches, ice cream and cake are served on trays, to be carried to any part of the park where the party wishes to eat luncheon. The Temple of Music and Concert Valley are opposite the Museum. Here a band of fifty pieces plays on Sundays and holidays in the open air, drawing crowds of music-lovers. The music stand, the gift of the late Glaus Spreckels, is con- structed of Colusa sandstone. In front of it is a plantation containing one tree from each state in the Union. On Oc- tober 19, 1896, commemorating the 115th anniversary of the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, there were planted here, in the shape of a bended bow 450 feet in length, trees from each of the original thirteen states; this was the be- ginning of the grove. Pennsylvania is represented by a cedar from the entrenchments at Valley Forge, Virginia by a tree from the grave of Thomas Jefferson and New Jersey by a linden from Washington's headquarters. Near the Temple Eastern End of Golden Gate Park. of Music is the Japanese Tea Garde?!, a picturesque bit of old Japan transplanted to the Occident. Admission to the garden is free; tea and Japanese rice wafers may be procured in the Japanese hoiuse. The Museum has many exhibits of great value and interest and is one cf the most complete in the West. It is open daily from 10 a. ni. to 4 p. m.; on Sundays and holidays, from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m. Admission free. In 1912 it was visited by 826,863 people. T'he nucleus of the collections here was formed in 1894, as the result of the Midwinter Fair, a success- ful exposition held by San Francisco following the Chicago World's Fair. The museum building, of Egyptian architecture, was one of the exposition structures; it is now overcrowded with the varied collections which it contains. The Art Gallery includes many paintings by acknowledged masters; an interesting exhibit is the collection of paintings by Cal- ifornia artists, in one of the rooms of the gallery. In the Statuary Hall are a number of fine pieces of sculpture; prob- ably the most noteworthy is W. W. Story's "Saul."' The upper story of the museum is devoted to a large and valuable Nat- ural History collection, attractively displayed. On the first floor are a Pioneer Room containing many reminders of early days in California, a Colonial exhibit, a remarkable collection of Indian baskets, a Napoleon Room containing many valuable relics of the great French emperor (including one of his throne-chairs), a large exhibit of coins and medals illustrating various periods of history, a collection of arms and armor, and many specimens relating to mineralogy, archaeology, ethnology and ceramics. The Stadium occupies thirty acres to the south of Spreckels Lake, and is enclosed by a sloping terrace which will accom- modate 60,000 spectators. The grandstand, to be completed for the Panama-Pacific Exposition, will hold 40,000 more. This is the largest athletic field of its kind in America. There are six football fields and a basket-ball court within the Stadium, as well as the running track, A trotting track, sixty feet wide, encircles the terrace. In various parts of the park there are tennis courts, croquet grounds, a Scotch bowling green and ten baseball diamonds. There are a number of monuments and statuary groups in Golden Gate Park of considerable artistic merit. Tlia McKinley Monument is on Baker street, at the entrance to the Panhandle; the mmuiment is the work of Robert Aitkin, The Francis Scott Key Monument is to the author of "T'he Star-Spangled Banner,'' and is the work of W. W. Story; it was given to the city by James Lick. This is the tallest mon- ument in the park, the height being 51 feet. The Goethe- 54 Schiller Monument (near the Museum) is a replica of that be- fore the theater at Weimar, Germany, Thomas Starr King Monument commemorates the man who had much to do with saving Califjrnia to the Union in 1861-5. The Serra monument honors Padre Junipero Serra, the founder of Franciscan mis- sions in California; it was erected in 1907 by the Native Sons of the Golden West. The other monuments are to President Ulysses S. Grant, President James A. Garfield, Major-General Henry W. Hallock, and Robert Burns. The Ball player, a bronze figure, the work of Douglas Tilden, is between the Museum and the Observatory. The lakes of Golden Gate Park are all artificial, but none the less beautiful. T'he largest is Stow Lake, encircling Strawberry Hill, with many pretty islets. Here there is a boat-house, and rowing on the lake is a popular amusement. The picturesque Huntington Palls furnish the water for Stow Lake. Strawberry Hill, reached by means of a bridge across the lake, is covered with pine and cypress. A broad drive- way winds about it to the summit, 428 feet above sea-level. From the Observatory on Strawberry Hill a magnificent pan- orama presents itself. The view extends over the park and the city, with the Golden Gate and Mount Tamalpais to the north. To (he northeast, on a clear day, Mount Diablo can be seen rising behind the Berkeley Hills. Not far froni Stow Lake boat-house is the Joaquin Miller cabin, a relic of the beloved "Poet of the Sierras." West of Stow l^ake is the Chain of Lakes, encircled by a picturesque driveway. Spreckels Lake, north of the Stadium, covers an area of about seven acres. Lloyd Lake and Metson Lake are small bodies of water northwest of Stow Lake. On the border of Lloyd I.,ake is a marble portal, once the en- trance to the Tov/ne residence on Nob Hill, destroyed by the fire of 1906. Lake Alvord is in the extreme eastern part of the park. At the summit of a small hill north of Stow Lake is an im- mense Celtic cross, known as the "Prayer Book Cross." This landmark, visible from many parts of the city, was erected in commemoration of the first English church service held in America, at Drake's Bay, a few miles north of this spot, June 24, 1579 (see index: Drake's Bay). The capstone of the cross is 40' feet above the ground. The cross was erected by George William Cnilds of Philadelphia. Not far distant, though outside the borders of the park, is another cross, on the top of Lone Mountain. Tliis cross was erected in memory of the early Spanish missionaries in San Francisco. Lone Mountain, in reality a hill, is surrounded by cemeteries. To the north is Laurel Hill Cemetery, to the 55 south the Masonic Cemetery, io the west Odd Fellows' Ceme- tery and to the east Calvary (Roman Catholic) Cemetery. Burials witbin the city limits are no longer permitted. To the south of Golden Gate Park, situated on command- ing heights, at Third and Parnassus avenues, are the Affil- iated Colleges (take Hayes-street car). In these imposing buildings are housed the medical, dental and pharmaceutical departments of the University of California. The central structure contains the hospital attached to the medical school. The western building is the Museum of Anthropology, one of the four great institutions of its kind in the United States. There are about 80,000 specimens relating to "man and his works" in all ages and all parts of the world. The collections are valued at several million dollars; more than $1,000,000 was donated to the museum at its foundation by Mrs. Phoebe Apperson Hearst and she has since added man> valuable collections. These are remarkable exhibits ot Egyptian, Grecian and Peruvian remains, as well as specimens relating to the manners and customs of the American Indians. The museum is open to the public, except on Mondays, from 10 a. m.. to 5 p. m. Popular lectures, illustrated by objects in the collections, are given. every Sunday afternoon. TTie Ocean Beach rivals Golden Gate Park in its popularity with the people of San Francisco and visitors. It can be reached by Sutter and California, Sutter and Clement, Mc- Allister, Ellis and Ocean and the Geary-stieet municipal cars; the best scenic route is that cf the Sutter-street line marked "Cliff," which passes along the southern shore of the Golden Gate. Tlie most famous feature of the beach is the Cliff House. The present structure, erected in 1909, is the fourth of this name standing on the present site, situated on the edge of a precipice high above the surf. From the dining-room windows^ the visitor looks out over the boundless expanse of the blue Pacific. The terrace on the face of the cliff (open to the public) affords an excellent view of the famous Seal Rocks, some hundred yards distant. Here hundreds of sea-lions (Zalophus Calif ornianus) disport among the breakers or sun themselves on the rocks. Above the Cliff House to the north are the Sutro Baths and Museum. This structure covers nea':'ly three acres; the baths are the largest indoor swimming tanks in the world. The area devoted to swimming purposes is 153 feat by 285 feet, the tanks varying in depth and temperature. They arc sur- rounded by an amphitheater that will seat 8,000 people. The Museum, in the promenades and galleries, contains notable UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION GROUN! collections. There . are relics from ancient Egypt and from Mexico, the latter inclading Aztec pottery, curios from the South Sea Islands, China, Japan, Syria, Alaska, British Co- lumbia and other parts of the world. The collection of mar- ine shells is one of the finest in America. TTiere is a large and interesting natural liistorj' exhibit. The Sutro Baths and Museum are open in summer from 7 a. m. to 11 p. m. ; in win- ter from 7 a. m. to 6 p. m.; admission, 10 cents (children, 5 cents), with bathing privileges extra. Across from Sutro Baths is the entrance to Sutro Gardens (Sutro Heights). Though these are private grounds, they al- ways have been open to the public. These beautiful gardens with their i)alm-lined avenues, their brilliant flowers Eind rare trees, have been created where once were only barren sand- hills. From the Parapet, west of the Sutro residence, there is a magnificent view over the ocean and up and down the coast; on a clear day the Farallones, thirty miles distant, can be made out. Descending the rock i^tairway to the right, the 57 fi^'-i'^^ 'A" ^o.>k w!iS;\ j 1 ^N SAN FRANCISCO, 1 9 I 5 f f 1 x^ ,*, Balcony is reached. From here there are superb marine vistas. The Beach is not much used for bathing', but wading in the surf is an amusement which is popular with children and grown-ups alike. In the rear of the beach is the Great High- way, a magnificent boulevard extending along the ocean. The two great Dutch windmilis near the highway furnish water for the lakes and irrigation of Golden Gate Park. They lap an underground supply of fresh water, though the wells are near the ocean. The southern windmill is the largest in the world, furnishing 40.000' gallons an hour; the northern mill has a pumping capacity of 30,000 gallons an hour. On the ocean at the northwest corner of Golden Gate Park is the United States Life Saving Station. Across the boule- vard from the park is the Beach Chalet, a resting place and restaurant. Facing the Great Highway, on the borders of the park, is the little ship Gjoa, the stout sloop in which Cap- tain Rcald Amundsen made the northwest passage from the 58 Atlantic to the Pacific, in 1908. Tlie vessel was presented to the city by the intrepid explorer. To the north of the Cliff House is Point Lobos, so named from the seals, called by the Spanish lobos marines ("sea wolves"). A trail leads around the rocky bluffs to Land's End, a promontory extending out from the mainland. This is a popular place for picnics; it is reached by the Cliff House (Suiter) car line. Watching the ships enter the Golden Gate is one of the amusements here. The rock with the lighthouse '^in the Golden Gate is Mile Rock. Beyond, on the Marin shore, is Point Bonita (signifying in Spanish, "pretty point") on which is situated Fort Barry. Above Land's End is Lincoln Park, occupying 150 acres, to be joined in 1915 with the Pre- sidio and Ocean Beach by a scenic boulevard. In Lincoln Park will be erected in 1915 a gigantic stone tower, which will serve as a landmark to ships approaching the coast. At the northeast corner of Lincoln Park is Fort Miley, one of the outer fortifications of the Golden Gate. East of the park is Baker's Beach, a curved strip of sand on the border of the Presidio. The Presidio is a point of unusual interest in San Fran- cisco. It occupies the territory immediately south of the Golden Gate, and is the largest military reservation within city limits in the United States. Its area is 1,542 acres, most of it heavily wooded with pine and eucalyptus. It is reached directly by the Sixteenth and Fillmore, Sutter and Jackson and the Presidio and Ferries (Union street) lines. The Pre- sidio was founded in 1776 by Juan Bautista Anza, who led an expedition overland from Sonora, Mexico, for this purpose; it was at the Presidio that the first permanent settlement was made within what is now San Francisco, though the Mis- sion was established soon after. Though a government res- ervation, the Presidio ranks almost as one of San Francisco's parks, since most parts of it are open to the public. Cameras are not allowed. The views over the Golden Gate to be ob- tained from many parts of the grounds, the attractive walks and drives and the military reviews all make the Presidio popular with visitors. A boulevard a mile in length, known as the Presidio Parkway, connects the reservation with Golden Gate Park; it extends north and south between 13th and 14th avenues. The north shore at the Presidio runs out in a long, narrow tongue of land called Fort Point. At the end of the point is Fort Winfield Scott, an old brick coast de- fense begun in 1854, replacing the Spanish Fort Blanco. It is an interesting relic of early fortification and is equipped with old-style armament. A pass is required lor admittance; 59 this is obtained from ilie commaader of the Presidio. Op- ])Osite Fort Scott, on tlie Marin county side of the Golden Gate, is Lime Point, with Fort Baker at its tip. Above it, on a shoulder of the hills 49o feet above the water, is Battery Spencer. This is the highest land battery in existence and is one of the most formidable of the defenses of the Golden Gate. Tho Parade Ground, Officers' Quarters, Presidio Bar- racks, Marine Hospital and National Cemetery (where rest many of the nation's heroes) are all within the Presidio res- ervation. Its northeastern corner will be part of the exposi- tion grounds in 1915; here will be the United States Govern- ment exhibits. The main grcunds of the Panama-Pacific International Ex- position are along the bay shore immediately south of the Pre- sidio, in the district knov/n as Harbor View. (See map.) Here will be held from February 20 to December 4, 1915, the greatest exposition the world has known. T'he total outlay will exceed $50,000,000; in the number and Importance of exhibits it will surpass previous expositions, and the artistic conception of the plans, together with the natural beauty of the site, wall make it particularly memorable. The exposition site comprises a tract of approximately 625 acres, situated in a natural basin open toward the bay and surrounded by low hills. It has a frontage of almost three miles along the water. The general arrangement of the buildings may be seen in the accompanying plan. There will be thirteen main exhibition palaces; in addition to the Festival Hall, these Mill be devoted to fine arts, education, manufactures, varied industries, machinery, liberal arts, hor- ticulture, transportation, mines and metallurgy, automobiles r.nd agriculture. Besides these, there will be the government exhibit, the buildings of foreign countries and those of the States. Fully fifty acres of the Fair Grounds will be taken up with the gardens, presenting a magnificent horticultural display. The North Garden or Esplanade fronting the water is to be known as The Marina, and through it will be the principal thoroughfare. This will be bounded at its eastern extremity by the Exposition Ferry Building (where visitors direct from Oakland, Berkeley, Alameda and the other bay cities and river points will land directly at the Exposition) and on the western extremity by the California Counties Building. At the Panama-Pacific International Exposition the world will celebrate the opening of the Panama Canal, and the magnificence of the celebration will be commensurate with the gigantic engineering feat which it commemorates. Un- 60 „ der the direction of the Panama-Pacific International Exposi- tion Company, of which Charles C. Moore is the president, the work has steadily progressed and the exposition will be ready well before the opening day. Conventions, national and international gatherings held under the auspices of the various orders and conclaves of learned societies will be held in San Francisco in 1915 and add to the entertaining and in- structive features of the exposition. The Panama-Pacific Ex- position will call visitors from every part of the globe to attend the world's greatest fair and also to travel through the world's greatest wonderland for tourists — California. On the eastern border of the exposition grounds is Fort Mason, the residence of the commanding officer of the De- partment of California. It has extensive and well-kept grounds, from v/hich there is a superb view over the bay and Golden Gate. The home of General John C. Fremont was once here. The Transportation Docks, the only ones owned by the government in the country, are along the bay at Fort Mason. 'I'his region is known as Black Point. Fort Mason is reached by the Polk, O'Farrell, Hyde and Jones street lines. Another point of military interest in San Francisco, besides the fortifications already mentioned, is the State Armory, at the corner of Fourteenth and Mission streets. This is de- fended by bastions and is equipped with batteries of the latest type disappearing guns. At the Union Iron Works on the Central Basin (take Kentucky-street car line) have been built some of the most famous ships of the American navy. The battleship "Oregon" was constructed here, as was the "Olympia," Admiral Dewey's flagship at the battle of Manila Bay. Vessels built by the Union Iron Works for the Amer- ican navy include the battleships Oregon, Wisconsin and Ohio; the armored cruisers California and South Dakota; the protected cruisers Charleston, San Francisco, Olym.pia, Mil- waukee and Tacoina; the monitors Monterey and Wyoming; the gunboats Wheeling and Marietta; the destroyers Farra- gut, Paul Jones, Perry and Preble, and the submarines Gram- pus, Pike and "F 2," with four others now in course of con- struction. The Japanese cruiser Chitose was also built here. Peter and James Donahue founded the Union Iron Works in 1849. The plant was recently purchased by the Bethlehem Steel Corporation. There are over 1,300' hotels, apartment houses and lodging houses in San Francisco, of which over 90 per cent are new. San Fiancisco claims better and larger accommodations for visitors than any city on the continent except New York. 61 Among the larger hotels are: Argonaut, B. P. $1 up; Arling- ton; Baldwin, E. P. $1 up; Bellevue, A. P. $4 up, E. P. $2 up; Cadillac, A. P. $3 up, E. P. $1 up; Colonial, A. P. $3 up, E. P. SI. 50 up; Continental, E. P. $1 up; Dale, E. P. $1 up; Dorches- ter, A. P. $2.50 up, E. P. $1 up; Fairmont (see advertising pages), E. P. $2.50 up; Gloster, E. P. $1 up; Golden West, E. P. $1 up; Grand Central, E. P. $1 up; Grand, E. P. $1 up; Grant, E. P. $1.50 up; Granada, A. P. $3 up, E. P. $1.50 up; Herald, E. P. $1 up; Herbert's Bachelor Hotel, B. P. $1 up; Holland, E. P. $1 up; Jefferson, A. P. $2.50, B. P. $1; Manx (see advertising pages), E. P. $1.50 up; Majestic, A. P. $3 up; Normandie, A). P. $3.50 up, E. P. $1.50 up; Palace (see adver- iljising pages), E. P. $2.50 up; Richelieu, A. P. $4 up; St. Francis (see advertising pages), E. P. $2 up; St. James, A. P. $2, E. P. $.75 up; Stanford, E. P. $1 up; Stewart, A. P. $3 up, E. P. $1.50 up; Sutter (see advertising pages), $1.50 up; Tallac, E. P. $1 up; Terminal, $1 up; Turpin (see advertising pages), E. P. $1 up; Union Square, E. P. $1 up; Van Dorn, E. P. $1 up; Wiltshire, E. P. $1 up. San Francisco's cafes and restaurants are no less famous than her hotels. The cosmopolitan character of the city lends a variety and excellence to the bills of fare of the tourist iii San Francisco which are seldom equalled elsewhere. The foreign restaurants represent practically every part of the globe — they are French, Italian, Spanish, Mexican, Greek, German, Chinese, Japanese and Turkish. Orchestras play regularly at all the larger restaurants. The big hotels have dining and grill rooms. The main shopping district of the city has Market street as its center. San Francisco's stores excel in many respects those of larger American cities, especially in the richness and variety of their wares. There are many immense retail es- tablishments and everything has been done by the merchants to make shopping in San Francisco pleasant and advan- tageous. The principal theaters of San Francisco are the Columbia (Geary street, near Mason), Cort (Ellis near Marl;et), Savoy (McAllister street, near Market), Tivoli Opera House (Eddy street, near Market), Valencia (Valencia and Fourteenth streets). The three principal vaudeville theaters are the Orpheum (O'Farrell street, between Stockton and Powell), Pantages (.Market street, opposite Mason), and Empress (Market street between Fifth and Sixth), There are a great number of moving-picture theaters i)i the down-town district. The clubs of San Francisco are numerous, many of them occupying handsome buildings. All the fraternal orders are represe.nted. The Young Men's Christian Association, Young 62 Women's Christian Association, Women's Christian Temper- ance Union and Young Men's Hebrew Association have head- quarters in the city. There are the usual patriotic societies and various state societies, including the Native Sons of the Golden West and the Native Daughters of the Golden West. Among the leading clubs are the Bohemian Club (Post and Taylor streets), California Camera Club (Commercial Build- ing), Commercial Club (Merchants Exchange Building), Com- monwealth Club, Concordia Club (1142 Van Ness avenue). Family Club (corner of Bush and Powell streets), Olympic Club (Post street, near Taylor), Pacific-Union Club (opposite the Fairmont Hotel), Press Club (Sutter and Powell streets), Scottish Thistle Club (Scottish Hall, 121 Larkin street). So- ciety of California Pioneers (Pioneer Building, Fourth street, near Market), Southern Club (California street near Stockton), Union League Chib (corner of O'Farrell and Powell streets), University Club (on Powell street, opposite Fairmont Hotel), University of California Club (212 Stockton street). Among the leading Women's Clubs are the California Club, Laurel Hall Club, Association of Collegiate Alumnae, Mills Club, Tokalon Club, San Francisco Colony of New England W^omen, Cercle de I'Union, Channing AuxiliaTy, Century Club, Town, and Country Club, Women's Press Association, Council of Jewish Women, Fiancesca Club, Papyras Club, Cap and Bells Club, Daughters of the Revolution, Daughters of the Confed- eracy, Society of the Mayllower, Association of Colonial Dames. The new German House, at the corner of Turk and Polk streets, is the headquarters of those of German descent, and it is planned to make it the center of German art and culture on the Pacific Coast. The San Francisco Turn Verein is situated on Sutter street, between Broderick and Devis- adero. There are numerous facilities for sight-seeing in San Fran- cisco, which are especially useful to those having only a lim- ited time to visit the city. The Sight-Seeing Car operated along the lines of the United Railroads leaves the Ferry Building every day at 10 a. m. and 2 p. m. The tour includes admission to the Sutro Baths and Museum; the time taken by the trip is 3i^ hours. Sight-Seeing Automobiles, operated by the Pacific Sight-Seeing Company, start every day from the Call Building, corner of Market and Third streets, at 10 a. m. and 2 p. m. The trips include visits to Golden Gate Park and the Ocean Beach, the Presidio and Pacific Heights. The fare is $1; each trip takes up about 2M: hours. A Chinatown Trip starts in the evening from the office of the Peck-Judah Com- pany (687 Market street), with whom reservations should be made; patrons at the various hotels will be called for. 63 The free Information Bureaus of the Southern Pacific Com- pany at 884 Market street and the Ferry Building, the Califor- nia Development Board at the Ferry Building, and the Peck- Judah Company (687 Market street) give information con- cerning San Francisco and the state, and supply literature de- scribing their resources and attractions. The Chamber of Commerce has neadquarters in the Merchants' Exchange Building, 431 California street; inquiries from visitors re- ceive prompt and courteous attention. There are a large number of side trips from San Francisco. The cities on the eastern shore of the bay (Oakland, Berkeley, Alameda and Richmond) are reached by ferry from the foot of Market street. The traveler should not fail to visit these communities; they are described at length in the next section. The Key Trolley Trip (operated by the Key Route) is a de- lightful tour through Oakland, Alameda, Berkeley, Piedmont and Fruitvale. The trip takes up seven hours and the route covers 68 miles of territory; the fare is $1. The trips down the peninsula into San Mateo county are described In Route 3 of this book. Popular journeys to the northward include the Triangle Trip of the Northwestern Pacific Railway and the Napa Valley Route, described in other parts of this work (consult index). The islands in San Francisco Bay are interesting to visit- ers, but a permit is required, as they are government military reservations. Aicatraz Island, near the Golden Gate, is the United States military prison. The Spanish called this island , Isla de Alcatraces (Tslaud of the Pelicans), from which came the present name. A permit to visitors may be obtained from the depot quartermaster at 1086 North Point street. Here also permission to visit Angel Island may be had. This large island, near the Marin shore, contains a recruiting station, a discharge camp, an immigration station, quarantine station and the army post, Fort McDowell. Angel Island was called by the Spaniards Isla de los Angeles. On Verba Buena Island (often called Goat Island) is the government naval training school, which is seen from the ferry boats. A line of the Southern Pacific, known as the Loop Service, runs from Third Street Depot to Ocean View (6) and thence across into San Mateo Countj; to Daly City (1), where numer- ous prize-fights have been held, and Colma (2). Beyond Colma the line passes the Cemeteries to Baden (2) and Tanforan (2) and to San Bruno (1). From liere the Loop Service train runs inward through South Francisco (2), Visitacion (3) and Bay Shore (1) to the Third Street Depot (5). Two short journeys which should be taken by the visitor in San Francisco are (a) the Mount Tanialpais trip and (b) the Ocean Shore trip. (a) Mount Tamalpais Trip For the Mount Tamalpais trip the traveler takes the Northwestern Pacific ferry from San Francisco, passing Alca- traz Island and the Golden Gate and reaching 3AUSALIT0, a pretty residence city situated on tree-covered heights, over- looking Richardson's Bay. On the bay are moored many pleasure craft and yachts, Sausalito had a population of 2,383 in 1910. (Holly Oaks Hotel, A. P. $2.50 up.) From here the route runs north through a suburban residence section along Richardson's Bay to Mill Valley Junction, and thence north- west to MILL VALLEY. (The Abbey Hotel.) This attractive residence tovvU, "the little Switzerland," is built upon the foot- hills of Mount Tamalpais (population in 1910, 2,551). On Mill Creek, which flows through the town, is the old saw mill which gave the valley its name. The road is through beauti- ful redwoods and the romantic old structure is only a few minutes' walk from the center of the town. The massive tim- bers are in a state of excellent preservation and part of the water-wheel remains, though the mill was built in 1832. Far- ther up the creek are The Cascades, which are pretty, though insignificant in size. Above Mill Valley towers Mount Tamalpais, a peak of vol- canic origin. The name of the mountain (pronounced Tam- al-pi-as) means in Spanish "country of the Tamals," the latter being a tribe of Indians who formerly inhabited this region, giving their name also to Tomales Bay. The summit of Tam- alpais is 2608 feet above sea level and the view from here is justly one of the most famous in the world. The mountain may be ascended from Mill Valley by the Mount Tamalpais Railway, or one may climb along the track, or by trail. The trail is clearly marked all the way from Mill Valley, most of the way through chaparral. The last part of the trail, up the "hog-back," is very steep and covered with loose rocks, which make walking difficult. TTie Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railway, a standard broad- gauge railroad, ascends the mountain by what is undoubtedly the "crookedest road in the world." The distance traveled is 8 1-5 miles, v/ith an ascent of 2500 feet, and in this distance there are no less than 281 curves. The railway was built in 1896 and is tamous among the scenic roads of the world. It is not a cog road and there are no steep inclines, the greatest grade being 7 degrees. The panorama unfolded as the train rises is impressive and ever-changing. 65 About half-way up the mountain, on a broad southern shoulder, is the "Double Bow Knot," Avhere the track of the railroad parallels itself five times within a distance of about 300 feet, forming, as the name denotes, an almost perfect "Double Bow Knot." The fact of overcoming the grades in such a short distance and by such an ingenious way has caused the "Double Bow Knot" on Mount Tamalpais to be pronounced one of the oddities of railroad engineering feats. On the road are crossed deep-cut canyons in the mountain side filled with redwoods, madronas, oaks and laurels. The view from the summit of Mount Tamalpais is wonder- ful and instructive, as the country below is laid out like a map. The entire bay region with its cities and towns is be- fore the observer. The view extends far out over the Pacific and ships approaching San Francisco are first sighted from the marine observatory on the highest part of the mountain. Mount St. Helena, 56 miles to the north, is plainly discernible. On a clear day Mt. Shasta, nearly three miles high and 300 miles away, may be made out, and the Sierra Nevada Moun- tains, 155 miles distant, are easily seen. To the east is Mt. Diablo, and Mt. Hamilton to the south. The Santa Cruz Moun- tains are beyond, with dark Loma Prieta, over 50 miles away, the most prominent peak. A level walk has been constructed around the summit of Tamalpais and by means of "locating tubes" all of these peaKs and many other points of interest may be easily found. Near the summit is the Tamalpais Tavern, the terminus of the railroad. (Rooms, $1 up; meals a la carte). From the "Double Bow Knot" on the Mount Tamalpais Scenic Railroad, a branch runs into the Muir Woods, set aside as a national monument in 1908. These woods were named after John Muir, the celebrated California naturalist. The park is about 295 acres in extent. Three-fourths of the trees are redwoods (sequoia sempervirens), many of them ranging in height from 20'0 to 300 feet. TTie terminus of the railroad is Muir Inn, situated on a knoll overlooking the canyon in which the woods are situated. (b) Ocean Shore Trip The Ocean Shore Railroad runs for 40 miles down the coast by a line of great scenic beauty. The road is an en- gineering wonder, many difficulties of construction having been surmounted by the builders. The trip starts from the depot at Twelfth and Mission streets, San Francisco, passes by Islais Creek and the market gardens of the city, to Daly City {TV2) and thence by beautiful Lake Merced (2 miles long) 66 with its wooded shores, its numerous islets and its delightfully blue waters. It was on the shores of this lake that the famous duel was fought between Judge David S. Terry and Senator David C. Broderick, in which the lattsr was mortally wounded, September 11, 1859. Running through Spring Valley, the train comes out on the Pacific Ocean in a region of rugged pictur- esqueness, passing Mussel Rock (4), and Edgemar (1) to SAL ADA (1), where there is a broad bathing beach between the ocean and a natural salt water lake, Laguna Salada. (Hotel Salada, $1.50 up.) From here the route extends through Brighton (ly^) and Vallemar (1) to Rockaway Beach (1). At this place are large amusement concessions. After passing here, the route enters the fertile San Pedro Valley, reaching Tobin fl^/^), the shipping point of the valley. Though only three miles long by half a mile v/ide, every foot of its highly productive soil is under cultivation. Its produce is to be found on the tables of epicures the world over. The principal delicacy that thrives in this little valley is the arti- choke, of which hundreds of carloads are shipped yearly to the ma'^kets of New York, London and the Continent. Leaving Tobin, the railroad is built on great cliffs for several miles around Pedro Mountain, exhibiting many feats of engineering. Far below the breakers dash with tremendous force against the cliffs. Here is passed Point San Pedro, a great rock of many-colored strata, presenting a strange and beautiful picture. Then comes the only tunnel cf the line, which is broad and has a double track bored through four hundred feet of solid rock, and after traversing for some distance the rolling foothills the train reaches MONTARA (5), a beach resort. Nestling in the hills, less than a mile from the beach, is the modern and cosy Montara Inn. From Montara is reached Farallone (1/4). The bathing beach here is excellent and there is also good fishing from the rocks. The government lighthouse and signal station is located at this point. Mussel and abalone beds of great extent are along this part of the coast. Next in the line of travel is MOSS BEACH (1), another popular beach resort. There are to be obtained here many unique specimens of marine moss and other sea growths. Surf and still-water bathing and fishing add to the appeal of Moss Beach as a recreation ground. There is also a pretty park. From Moss Beach, the line runs through PRINCETON- BY-THE-SEA (2), on the northern shore of beautiful Half Moon Bay. Nearby is Pillar Point, sighted in 1585 by Captain Francisco de Gali, a Spanish navigator. Portola passed here on his northern march to San Francisco, Otcober 30, 1769. After leaving Princeton the traveller reaches GRANADA (1), situated on a gently sloping hillside overlooking the bay. 67 Ftom Granada the line runs past Miramar {V2), where there is a long pleasure pier 'extending into the ocean, to HALF MOON. (Occidental Hotel, $2.) This quaint old place was settled early in the history of the State and was long known as Spanishtown. It is now a growing residence city. From here the route continues through Arleto Park (1-2) and Fair Haven (2) to PURISIMA (2), another old settlement, located in the green canyon of Purisima Creek. This stream, where it empties into the sea, plunges down in a series of picturesque waterfalls. Beyond here is Lobitos (2), situated where the Lobitos Creek enters the ocean, and thence is reached TUNITAS GLEN (2), the present terminus of the Ocean Shore Railway. There is here a pretty little cove with a good bathing beach. Excellent trout-fishing is enjoyed in Tunitas Creek. From here connection is made by stage along the coast to the popular seaside summer resorts of San Gregorio, Pes- cadero and Pebble Beach, and the mountain retreats of La. Honda and Belleville. The road is good for automobiles, run- ning south to Santa Cruz. PESCADERO is picturesquely situated near the ocean, but separated from it by low hills. Two miles south of here is Pebble Beach, a little cove in which there are millions of pretty, smooth pebbles of all kinds, including moss-agate, car- nelian, opal and quartz. It has been declared that no other beach in the United States equals this in the number and beauty of its stones. A stage' road leads over the Sierra Mor- ena, via La Honda, to Redwood City. (For description of other parts of San Mateo county see Route 3.) (2) The East Bay Cities The cities on the eastern shore of the Bay of San Francisco form a great community covering an area of approximately 100 square miles, most of which is thickly settled. This has long been the most rapidly growing region in the United States, and the increase in population is going steadily on. In 1900 the federal census gave the combined population of the East Bay cities as 95,000; in 1910, they contained 235,000 inhab- itants; at the present time their population approximates 300,000. According to the calculation of Bion J. Arnold, an em- inent expert on municipal development, this region will prob- ably contain within thirty years a population of over 2,0'00,000^ All the cities on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay are reached by ferry and train service from San Francisco. These communities, which will now be described, are (a) Oak- land, (b) Alameda, (c) Berkeley and (d) Richmond. 68 (a) Oakland OAKLAND, the third city of California and the county seat of Alameda county, is reached from San Francisco (five miles distant) by the ferry systems of the Key Route and the Southern Pacific Company. The Western Pacific Railway maintains a ferry for its transcontinental passengers between Oakland and San Francisco; the Creek Route operates a ferry service from San Francisco to the foot of Broadway, Oakland, by which automobiles are transported across the bay. Oakland's population is estimated to be 200,000. The cen- sus of 1910 gave the city a population of 150,174, an increase of more than 124 per cent over that of the previous census, when it was 66,000. Oakland has an area of approximately 56 square miles, including 12 square miles of tidal flats, submerged a few feet beneath the waters of the bay. These tide-lands are being filled in to i)rovide factory sites and terminals for rail- ways and ships. The most notable recent improvements in Oakland are thfe develo])ment of waterfront and shipping facilities. The Inner Harbor (Estuary of San Antonio) is south of the city, between Oakland and Alameda. Along both sides there are extensive wharves and numerons factories. The West Waterfront (reached by Eighth-street car line) includes another large commercial and industrial district. The Oakland Mole, the main terminal of the Southern Pacific Railway, Southern Pa- cific Long Wharf, Western Pacific Pier and Key Route Pier extend far out into the bay. The city of Oakland has voted $2,503,000 for harbor improvements, which will make the ship- ping facilities among the best on the Pacific Coast. The commerce of Oakland by land and sea is large and steadily increasing; eleven ocean steamship lines regularly utilize the Oakland docks, thousands of smaller steamers and sailing vessels from all parts of the world load and unload at the wharves. The municipal government has the ownership and complete control over the waterfront and harbor, Oakland being one of the first cities in the country to assume this priv- ilege. The factories of Oakland are mainly along the Estuary and the bay shore; practically every article required by modern civilization is manufactured here. Tlie total capitalization of the 1500 mills and factories is approximately $50,000,000, their annual output being valued at $48,000,000. The California Cotton Mills at Oakland (established in 1883) are the only cotton mills west of the Rocky Mountains; they consume prac- tically the entire crop of California cotton. To the traveler in- 69 Map Showing Central Part of Oakland 70 terested in industrial progress, the factory district of Oakland offers many attractions. Oakland is the terminus of the main lines of the Southern Pacific Company, the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad and the Western Pacific Railroad, giving it the best railroad facilities of any city in the state. Every day 1,607 trains run into and out of the Oakland terminals. The Southern Pacific station at Sixteenth street, on the bay shore, is a reinforced concrete structure, coating over $300,000. The Santa Fe station, at Fortieth street and San Pablo avenue, is an at- tractive example of the Mission style of architecture. The Western Pacific station, at Third and Washington streets, is a commodious building of reinforced concrete. The public buildings of Oakland are modern and imposing structures. Towering above the business district is the new City Hall (Fourteenth and Washington streets). This is the tallest building on the Pacific Coast; the ball on the top of the dome is 377 feet above the street. From the cupola (reached by the elevator) a magnificent panorama of the city and the entire Bay Region is obtained. Architecturally impressive and attractive, the City Hall houses a model city government, based on the commission plan developed in Des Moines, Galveston and Berkeley; the city charter is an amplification and modification of the charters of these cities. The City Hall was erected at a cost of $2,000,000. It is surrounded by the city plaza, enriched with giant magnolias and other trees and shrubbery. The Postoffice is another public building, situated at Fif- teenth street and Broadway, in the midst of Oakland's chief business district. The building is soon to be enlarged to meet the needs of Oakland's increasing population. At Fifth and Broadway are the Hail of Records and the Alameda County Court House; in the former is housed the Alameda County Law Library. The Free Public Library is situated in a fine pressedbrick building at Fourteenth and Grove streets. There are several branch libraries in different parts of the city. The retail business section, of which Broadway is the center, contains many large and attractive office buildings. The city's great tourist hotel, the Hotel Oakland, erected at a cost of almost $2,000,000, is one of the most magnificent on the Pacific Coast. It occupies the block bounded by Harrison, Alice, Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets. Opposite, at Thirteenth and Harrison streets, are the rooms of the Oakland Chamber of Commerce. Here there is a display of processed fruits and flowers which is well worthy of inspection. The exhibit is maintained by the Alameda County Exposition Commission. 71 There are forty-five public schools in Oakland, besides a large number of private educational institutions. T'here are three high schools. St. Mary's College (Broadway and Haw- thorne) is a prominent Roman Catholic school for young men, giving a regular collegiate course. Mills College (see advertis- ing pages) occupies a spacious park that fronts on 59th avenue. This is the leading college for young women on the Pacific Coast, ranking with the best institutions of the kind in the United States. The campus is attractive and well laid out. Among the numerous classic buildings are Lisser Hall, Mills Hall, College Hall, the Art Library, Carnegie Library and the Campanile. Park improvement is a prominent feature of Oakland's civic program. There are twenty-eight parks, and others in course of construction. There are nine playgrounds for chil- dren and adults. Extensive improvement work has been done around Lake Merritt, a natural water park (170 acres in ex- tent), which has a fleet of pleasure craft, including yachts, motor-boats, row-boats and canoes. Boats may be hired (rates 25 cents and 50 cents per hour). Lake Merritt's waters are salt; in fact, the lake is an arm of the bay, though cut off from it by a broad causeway and moveable dam. (To reach the lake take Thirteenth-street cars from the City Hall.) On the shores of Lake Merritt are Lakeside Park and Peralta Park. In Lakeside Park are the Oakland Public Museum and a large conservatory. The museum, contains a collection of relics of Colonial days, arms and armor, exhibits pertaining to the ethnology of America, Africa and Oceania, a fine col- lection of minerals and another of the birds of the Pacific Coast. Near Lake Merritt will soon be erected a municipal auditorium, to cost $500,000, capable of seating 13,000 persons. There are a number of smaller plazas and squares in the city, and on the outskirts of Oakland are many attractive parks, often with natural surroundings. Piedmont Park (reached by Piedmont car) is a private park in the foothills. Situated in a sheltered canyon, it contains delightful rustic scenery. Many drink the waters of the sulphur springs which bubble up in the canyon. A Japanese garden where the visitor may obtain refreshments is presided over by a bevy of Nip- ponese maidens in butterfly costumes. The Piedmont Art Gallery (admission 10 cents) contains a collection of over eight hundred canvases of distinction. It ranks as the most noteworthy art gallery west of Chicago. Nearly every famous artist is represented, the collection being valued at over $500,000. In the eucalyptus amphitheater there are held band concerts every Sunday, free to visitors in the park. 72 (The admission to Piedmont Park is 10 cents.) Piedmont Park is situated in the little city of PIEDMONT (2,500 inhab- itants), an incorporated municipality which is entirely sur- rounded by the city of Oakland. It is unique in having no shops or stores of any kind, its area being entirely devoted to residential purposes. Another attractive park in the foothills is Trestle Glen, a sylvan retreat beside running streams (take east-bound Fourth-avenue car). Leona Heights, far up in the hills, are ideal picnic grounds and offer sweeping views (take Hay ward, San Leandro or Melrose cars, transferring to Leona Heights car). Rock Ridge Park has the advantage of containing many modern and artistic residences; the prospect in every direction is inviting, embracing sea, mountain and deeply- forested arroyos. The Oakland Traction Company Park is a picturesque gorge, with natural wildwood and restful sur- roundings. The Mights, for twenty years the home acres of Joaquin Miller, "The Poet of the Sierras," are sought by hun- dreds of literary pilgrims (take Thirteenth-street car to Dimond, walking or driving the rest of the distance). Idora Park is a leading amusement place, containing an unusual number of concessions that offer amusement to the visitor. (From Oakland or Berkeley take either Shattuck or Telegraph avenue cars.) The zoological specimens include California bear and a flock of ostriches. Popular band con- certs are held here in the summer months. Oakland's Base- ball Park (take San Pablo-avenue cars) is declared the finest minor league ball ground in tbe United States. Games are played here every Thursday at 3:15 p. m. and Sunday at 10:15 a. m. during the playing season. The Oakland team is a member of the Pacific Coast League (Class AA). The residence sections of Oakland contain many fine homes, with attractive grounds and well-kept streets. The upper Claremont, with its magnificent hotel now building, is an exclusive district overlooking Berkeley and the Bay of Francisco, containing some of the most magnificent residences of the state. Fruitvale is a suburban residence section, sur- rounded by gardens, groves and orchards. Melrose, situated to the south of Fruitvale, is another delightful community of homes. A point of interest in Fruitvale is the ostrich farm, at Fourteenth and High streets, reached by Fourteenth-street cars and Key Route Trolley Trip. Here are large enclosures containing old and young birds. These ostriches are rem- iniscent of the South African deserts from which the original stock was imported. They thrive well in California, in the northern as well as in the southern part of the state. Be- 73 tween Oakland and Berkeley on the bay shore is EMERY- VILLE, an incorporated town with considerable manufacturing interests. Here is Shell Mound Park, a popular amusement resort. Many interesting relics have been exhumed from the Indian Mound which gave the park its nam.e. The principal theaters of Oakland are the Macdonough and Ye Liberty, presenting legitimate drama, and the Or- pheum, Pantages, and Bell, popular vaudeville houses. There are numerous motion picture houses throughout the city. Among the clubs are the Athenian, the Elks, the Nile, the Home Club and the Claremont Country Club. The women's clubs include the Ebeil and Oakland Clubs. Oakland has 86 churches, representing all the larger denominations. Tne hotels of Oakland are Hotel Oakland, E. P. $1.50 up (see advertising pages); Key Route Inn, A. P. $3, E. P. $1 up (see advertising pages); Athens, A. P. $2.50 up, E. P. $1 up; Metro- pole, A. P. $2.50 to $4, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Crellin, E. P. $1 up; Adams, E. P. $1 up; Hoi el St. Mark, A. P, and E. P.; Avalon. There are many delightful side-trips about Oakland. The tourist may travel by local train, automobile or trolley to the neighboring towns of San Lorenzo, Hayward, Newark, Niles, Sunol, Pleasanton and Alvarado. All these are described in later pages of ihis volume (consult index). The automobile boulevards are among the finest in the state. The Foothill Boulevard runs southeasterly from Oakland to the city of Hay- ward, fifteen miles distant. South-ward from Hayward excel- lent roads extend along the foothills to the old Mission San Jose, replete with historic interest, and between Palmdale and Warm Springs into the Santa Clara Valley. The Tunnel Road leads from Berkeley through the Claremont section of Oak- land and along the brink of Temescal Canyon, at the head of which a tunnel pierces the Contra Costa hills into the San Ramon Valley beyond. This tunnel is used by wagons and automobiles and is one of the few tunnels in the country not constructed for railroad purposes. TTiere are delightful views over the bay cities from the road, and it passes close by pic- turesque Lake Chabot, one of the sources of Alameda County's water supply. The Lake Shore Boulevard starts at Peralta Park, follows the shore of Lake Merritt for its entire length from south to north and thence leads through Indian Gulch and the Piedmont district to Redwood Canyon. The Highland Drive starts at the Hotel Oakland, makes the circuit of Lake Merritt, traverses Rock Ridge Park, passes the Claremont Country Club and continues through the Claremont district of Berkeley, along Piedmont avenu^ and down Bancroft way to Telegraph avenue, where it enters the university grounds; :74 from the campus it continues by way of Euclid avenue to Cragmont, Nortbbrae, Thousand Oaks, Kensington Park, Berkeley Heights, Arlington and Kensington. Another boule- vard of unsurpassed scenic grandeur is the Skyline Boulevard, now being constructed by the Prank C. Havens Com- pany interests along the crest of the hills from Oak- land north through Berkeley to the city of Richmond. There are many other attractive automobile drives in the Oakland, Piedmont and Berkeley hills. Among the longer tours are those to Moraga Valley, Vallecitas Valley and the beautiful Niles Canyon. The line of the Oakland, Antioch and Eastern Railway af- fords a pleasant side-trip out of Oakland, running northeast- ward into Contra Costa County. The route extends through Moraga, Lafayette, Walnut Creek, Meinert and Concord to Bay Point, 32 miles from the station at Fortieth and Shaffer streets, Oakland. (b) Al ameda ALAMEDA is situated on an island south of the city of Oakland. It is an industrial and residential city and is known for its bathing beaches and aquatic sports. The population in 1910 was 23,388, increasing from 16,464 in 1900. The indus- trial section of the city is along the Estuary, where there are excellent shipping facilities. Here are the extensive Borax Works of the F. M. Smith Company. Alameda is the head- quarters in winter of the large fleet owned by the Alaska Packers' Association. Among the public buildings are the City Hall, on Santa Clara avenue, the Public Library on Webster street (contain- ing over 38,000 volumes), and the new Postoffice building on the north side of Central avenue, near Park street. There are attractive residence sections, containing some of the finest homes in California. There are a number of club buildings, and all the religious denominations have substantial churches. The schools are numerous and well equipped. The high school is a model preparatory institution; there are also several pri- vate schools. Alameda is well equipped with parks and children's play- grounds. The municipal properties are beautified with lawns and trees. The principal parks are Lincoln Park, Washington Park and McKinley Park. The Bay Shore Boulevard is an attractive drive for aufcomobilists. 75 The beaches along Alameda Bay and the San Antonio Es- tuary, both being parts of the great Bay of San Francisco, give to Alameda rare advantages as a bathing and boating re- sort. Along the shore are a number of clubs devoted to aquatic sports, the most prominent of which are the Aeolian Yacht Club (Bay Farm Island Bridge), Encinal Yacht Club (end of Grand street) and the Alameda Boat Club (end of Chestnut street). There are many yachts and other pleasure craft in the Alameda waters, including a great number of arks and houseboats. The baths of Alameda are numerous and popular. Tlie hotels of Alameda are the Alameda Hotel, $2.50 up; Encinal Hotel, $2.50; Park Hotel, E. P. $2.50 up. (c) Berkeley BERKELEY, the seat of the University of California, is on San Francisco Bay, directly opposite the Golden Gate and im- mediately north of Oakland. The city covers an area of nine square miles and the population is estimated at 51,000. The census of 1910 gave Berkeley a population of 40,434, showing it to be the fastest growing city of its size in the United States., In 1900 Berkeley had 13,214 inhabitants, so that the increase was 206 per cent. The city derives its name from George Berkeley, Bishop of Cloyne, Ireland, who came to America early in the eighteenth century for the purpose of establishing colleges. His devotion to the cause of education made appropriate the bestowal of his name on the educational capital of the West, a then almost unknown region, referred to in his prophetic line, "Westward tiie course of Empire takes its way." Berkeley occupies a gently sloping area from the bay to the Berkeley hills, upon whose heights are attractive resi- dences. Along the water-front are a number of factories. The main business of Berkeley centers about Shattuck avenue from Bancroft way to University avenue. Shattuck avenue is the widest street in California; on it are operated two lines of interurban electric railway trains and a double line of street cars. The Southern Pacific station at University and Shat- tuck avenues is one of the most attractive buildings of its kind in the state. The Santa Fe station presents an excellent ex- ample of the architecture characteristic of the California mis- sions. (Intersection of University avenue and West street.) The City Hall is a modern municipal building situated on Grove street, between Center street and Allston way. An ex- 76 cellent view of Berkeley may be obtained from its tower. To the rear of the City Hall is a children's playground; on the southeastcorner of the grounds is an old Spanish cannon, cap- tured by Admiral Dewey at the battle of Manila Bay, May 1, 1898. Tlie Free Public Library is situated on Shattuck avenue and Kittredge street. The library contains 45,000 volumes. Near it is the Postoffice; a larger postoffice building will soon be constructed by the government at Addison and Milvia streets. The High School, one of the largest in the state, is situated at Grove street and Allston way. It has 1,500 pupils. The building and site cost $300,000. The California School for the Deaf and the Blind is situated in Southeast Berkeley in a handsome and well-kept park. On these grounds can be seen the famous group of bronze statuary by Douglas Tilden, the deaf and dumb sculptor, entitled "The Indian Bear Hunt- ers." There are well equipped public primary and grammar schools in Berkeley, besides a number of colleges and acad- emies, the most prominent being the Berkeley Business Col- lege (see advertising pages), the California School of Arts and Crafts, Boone's University Academy, St. Joseph's Acad- emy, Pacific TTieological Seminary, Baptist Theological Sem- inary, St. Joseph's Presentation Academy, Miss Head's Seminary, Snell's Seminary, the A to Zed School, the Watson School. The Berkeley Municipal Wharf (end of North-and- West Berkeley car line) is at the foot of University avenue. Annual swimming carnivals are held from the wharf, which is a mile long; the excellent fishing privileges are free. Berkeley possesses fine residence districts. Homes in the eastern part of Berkeley may be seen to advantage at points along Telegraph avenue and College avenue (take cars marked with these names). The suburban residences of North- brae, Cragmont, North Cragmont, Thousand Oaks, Berkeley Park, Berkeley Highlands, Arlington, Arlington Park, Ken- sington Park, Fairmont Park, Regents Park and Cerrito Park on the north, may be seen from the Northbrae cars (making a loop centering on University and Shattuck avenues.) Many Indian Rocks, most of them with mortar-like depressions made in their sides for grinding corn, are in the northern part of the city, showing that the country was once thickly settled by aborigines. One on Indian Rock avenue, near the Circle, is a typical specimen of these monuments of a forgotten race. Above the city rise the Berkeley Hills, which, excepting Mount Tamalpais, afford the best view of the bay region to be gained. These hills offer excellent climbing for leisurely pedestrians. Behind the University rises Charter Hill, 1000 feet high, upon which is the huge "C" which has been placed 77 near its crest by the undergraduates. Tliis "Big C" it outlined with electric lights before every California-Stanford football game or track meet. From Charter Hill, there is an excellent trail past Little Grizzly Peak to Mount Grizzly or Grizzly Peak (as it is usually called), the highest point in the Berkeley range, 1759 feet above sea level. The view from the peak is Inspiring, and afte'' climbing Charter Hill the ascent is gradual until the peak is reached. In Cragmont are two pa- vilions upon the hillside, which may be reached by automo- bile road, from which an extended view may be had. To the northwest of Berkeley is Cerrito Hill, a wooded eminence of peculiar formation with steep sides, rising from the bay shore about 300 feet. From the summit of the hill an ex- cellent view of Brooks Island (2V2 miles away, 140 feet above water) may be gained. At the base of Cerrito Hill lies the town of ALBANY. This is a growing town of over one thou- sand inhabitants. It has been recommended by military and naval officers to the federal government as the best site on San .Francisco Bay for a navy yard. The principal hotels of Berkeley are the Hotel Shattuck, A. P. $2.50 up (see advertising pages). Hotel Berkeley, E. P. $1 up (see advertising pages); Hotel Carlton, A. P. $2.50' up; Northgate, A. P. $2 up; Berkeley Inn, A. P. $2.50 up; Cloyne Court. The Berkeley Chamber of Commerce, 2112 .Shattuck avenue, contains an exhibit of Alameda County products. The chief attraction of Berkeley is the University of Cal- ifornia. The western entrance to the campus, at Center and Oxford streets, is just three blocks from the terminal of the Berkeley Key Route line, and two from the Berkeley station of the Shattuck line of the Southern Pacific (see map). The Ellsworth line of the Southern Pacific local ends near an en- trance to the campus, two blocks east, at Dana and Allston. The main entrance to the campus at the present time is the Sather Gate, at Telegraph avenue and Allston way, which may be reached by taking the branch street car line of the Key Route connecting at South Berkeley. The Sather Gate was erected at a cost of $40,000 by the late Mrs. Jane K. Sather, in memory of her husband. Another eastern entrance to the campus is situated at the end of College avenue, and is reached by taking the College-avenue cars to College and Allston, or by taking the College-avenue branch of the Key Route. This entrance is nearest the Greek Theater. On the north side of the campus there are two entrances, the North Gate, at Euclid and Hearst avenues, and the entrance at ^Ujcutr^ % University of California Campus 79' Hearst and Arch. When the Hearst plans for the University are completed, the main gateway will be at University and Oxford, at the western side of the campus, and the road ex- tending therefrom will be the main axis. The campus at Berkeley contains 254 acres. Located op- posite the Golden Gate, and on land sloping gradually toward the hills in such a way as to have a commanding view of the bay and San Pi'ancisco, it is one of the most picturesquely situated universities in the world. Passing through the w^estern gate at Center and Oxford, the visitor traverses the tree-shaded avenues of the campus, loast live oaks thousands of years old, including the Le Conte Oak, dedicated to Joseph Le Conte, former professor of the University, and to John Le Conte, former president; past tall eucalyptus trees which have been planted since the establishment of the University, half a century ago. These eucalyptus trees shade the Cinder Track of the students, where the field meets of the University are held. To the right of the path is the Football Statue, pre- sented to the University for superiority in American football. The statue is of bronze, and was designed by Douglas Tllden, the deaf and dumb California sculptor. The group represents two players of the Rugby football game, which is the game now played by the University of California, and many other Western institutions. The South Drive, branching to the right of the central path, leads past the Harmon Gymnasium, where the men of the University receive training in physical culture. This gym- nasium is the largest indoor auditorium on the campus, and in it are held evening concerts, debates and college dances. Here, also, every two weeks is held the University Meeting, at which speakers of note address ail the students. The field to the east of the cinder track is the Drill Ground, where drill is held every Monday and Wednesday by the University Cadets at 11 a. m. To the east of this field is Californis Hall, in which are situated the administrative offices. On the second floor are the offices of the President, Comptroller, Secretary of the Regents, Recorder of the Facul- ties, Dean of the Summer Session, Alumni Secretary, and Director of University Extension. The first floor is devoted to offices of various departments, among them History, Eco- nomics and Political Science, and class rooms. There is an auditorium (room 101), in which lectures are held. On its walls are portraits of noted persons connected with the Uni- versity, California Hall is one of the buildings in the perma- nent plans of the University, and is of white granite. 80 Across from California Hall is Boalt Hall, the home of the School of Jurisprudence, of which Professor William Carey Jones is director. The school ranks with such graduate law schools as those at Harvard and Columbia, in its standard of admission and the thoroughness of its work. Tlie building belongs in the permanent plans and cost $200,000. North of California Hall is the University Library, built at a cost of a million dollars. The greater part of this sum was the gift of the late Charles Franklin Doe. The building is of white California granite, with red tile roofing. Its entrance faces north; to the right of the entrance on the first floor is the Periodical Room, containing m.agazines and other pub- lications from all over the world. To the left is the room de- voted to the Bancroft Library, an extensive collection of books and magazines relating to Pacific Coast history. The rest of this floor is devoted to seminar rooms, to which special books are transferred for the use of students and instructors engaged in research work. On the second floor is the catalogue and delivery room, from which access to the six floors of book stacks is gained. The main reading room is on this floor. It takes up the whole of the north front, and is fifty-three by two hundred and ten feet in size, and forty-five feet in height from the floor to the vaulted ceiling. The library contains over 215,000 volumes. North Hall and South Hall, the two oldest buildings on the campus, are devoted to class rooms and laboratories. In the basement of North Hall is the Student's Co-operative Store. Student publications, including the "Daily Californian," have their ofl[ices in North Hall. Beacon Hall, formerly the library, is now devoted to class rooms. It is among the oldest buildings. In the southeast part of the campus is situated California Field, on which the baseball and football games are held, with bleachers accommodating 24,000. On the occasion of the Cal- ifornia-Stanford games, every seat is taken. In this part of the grounds are Hearst Hall, given to the women students for a gymnasium and meeting place by Regent Phoebe A. Hearst of the University; the Rudolph Spreckels Physiological Lab- oratory, the Pathology and Medicine building, the Museum of Vertebrate Zoology, the Students' Infirmary, the Anthropolog- ical Museum, the Faculty Club, and the Senior Men's Hall. This last-named building is the center of the system of student self-government at the University. Here, one evening a week, at "Senior Singing," the men of the fourth-year class meet and discuss college problems. 81 Other buildings in the eastern part of the grounds are the Chemistry building, the Anatomy building, the Architecture building, the Civil Engineering building, East Hall, and the Philosophy building. The Hearst Memorial Mining building, at the northeast corner of the campus, near Founder's Rock, is the gift of Mrs. Phoebe Apperson Hearst, as a memorial to her husband, the late United States Senator Geroge Hearst. It is of Raymond granite, and includes four floors, devoted to the various activ- ities involved in the practice of mining. The building and its equipment represent an outlay of $1,000,000. On the northern side of the campus, below the Mining building, are the Mechanics building, the Students' Observatory, the Botanical Gardens, the Conservatory, the Agricultural building, one of the newer granite structures, and the President's mansion. By far the most distinctive feature of the University is the Greek Theater, situated in a hollow of the tree-covered hills at the eastern extremity of the grounds. This is the most famous outdoor auditorium in America, and is known the world over. Planned on Imes similar to those of the ancient theater at Epidaurus, it easily seats 10,000 people. It was given to the University by William Randolph Hearst. On ac- count of the equable climate of Berkeley, it is possible to hold out-door performances in the Greek theater at all seasons of the year. Many famous persons have appeared here. In 1910 Colonel Theodore Roosevelt lectured to more than 12,500 auditors. Among the artists who have been heard in this the- ater are Sarah Bernhardt, Maud Adams, William Crane, Tet- razzini, Nordica, Gadski, Schuman-Heinck, David Bisphain and others. During the summer months and while the University is in session, free concerts, called the Half-Hours of Music, are held on Sunday afternoons. A permanent adornment of the campus, soon to be erected, is the Sather Campanile, 300 feet high, with a clock and chimes. This will cost $325,000. The University of California is, in point of attendance, the second largest university in the United States, being exceeded only by Columbia. In 1860 was established the College of California, the forerunner of the University, and in 1868 the Organic Act of the State University was passed, establishing the institution at its present location in Berkeley. At the present time, including the students at the Summer Session, there are 7,132 students enrolled; there are 582 officers. Be- sides giving instruction in .all branches at Berkeley, the Uni- versity has numerous stations throughout the state, among 82 them the State Farm at Davis, the Lick Observatory at Mount Hamilton, the Scripps Biological Institute at La Jolla, and the Affiliated Colleges at San Francisco. The University is also kept in close touch with the people of the state through the activities of its Department of Agriculture and of its Univer- sity Extension Division. Dr. Benjamin Ide Wheeler, one of the most noted educators of the United States, recently Roosevelt Lecturer at the University of Berlin, has guided the University in its progress as President since 1S99. The faculty contains many recognized experts in various fields of knowledge. (d) Richmond RICHMOND, six miles north of Berkeley, in Contra Costa County, is reached by street car, local and through trains. The territory between Berkeley and Richmond is rapidly set- tling up, and includes a number of prosperous communities, such as Albany, Pullman and Stege. Richmond is a growing manufacturing city with a population of about 12,000; in 1910 the inhabitants numbered 6,802, in 1899 there were only a few farm houses on the site. Extensive harbor im.provement has been planned, insuring the industrial future of the city. Rich- mond is advantageously situated on the Richmond peninsula which juts out into the bay, and has a water-front of seventeen miles. To the tourist, Richmond is interesting particularly because of its industries and commerce. Here is the great Western plant of the Standard Oil Company, the largest re- finery west of Chicago. Its establishment at this point in- volved two great undertakings — the laying of a double pipe- line from the Kern county oil fields, 260 miles distant, with the creation of pumping stations at frequent intervals to force the heavy crude oil from the wells to the reservoirs at tide-water, and the building of the immense refining plant, including a can factory with a capacity of 30,0'00 five-gallon cans per day. T'here are over 500 miles of pipe. The system of refining crude California oil with its asphalt base is com- plex and the processes are interesting to visitors. Richmond was chosen by the Standard Oil management because of its location, its San Pablo Hills, its harbor, and its transportation facilities. The system is so arranged that oil is handled almost entirely by gravity, the oil flowing from the highest points into the tanks lower down, to be thence drawn off, refined and treated. At this plant the raw material is turned into 175 products, including 17 kinds of oils. The candle factory, asphalt plant and whale oil refinery are among 83 the Standard Oil factories of importance here. The company has invested more than $5,000,000 in equipment. The Pullman Company shops, with an output of 80 cars per month, (800 employees) are situated at Pullman near Richmond. The quarrying industry is large, four stone quar- ries being in operation. Richmond is the center of the porce- lain industry of the Pacific Coast. The factories of the city include pipe and steel works, brick works and lumber yards. The great cellars and plant of the California Wine Associa- tion at ''Winehaven," in the northern part of the city, are of interest to tourists. This is the central plant of the biggest grape-growing and wine-making organization in the world; and here is received the product of the association's wineries from San Bernardino to Redding. There are twelve miles of passages between the immense redwood tanks in the cellars. The total capacity is 11,000,000 gallons. There are kept on hand at all times 15,000,000 bottles, and 67 kinds of wine are shipped to all parts of the world. The delivery capacity of the plant is 500,000 gallons a month, and the association has its own 2,000-foot wharf, "Winehaven" is said to be the largest plant of its kind in the world. It is the aim of the association to keep California wines pure and to promote their use as being better than distilled liquors. The Richmond harbor ranks second to that of San Fran- cisco in tonnage of goods shipped. Much of this large ship- ment is due to the fact that Richmond is the Pacific Coast terminal of the Santa Fe Railroad and also to the output of the Standard Oil Company here. Richmond has several fine parks and automobile boule- vards. Grand Canyon Park is a natural beauty spot in the hills, overlooking the bay; there are here a pavilion and boat- ing lake. Janice Park is a pretty plaza in the eity. East Shore Park, owned by the East Shore and Suburban Railway Company, covers 17 acres and has picnic grounds, athletic fields, swimming pool and dancing pavilion. Among Rich- mond's attractive public buildings are the free library and schools, including a modern high school. There are ample hotel accommodations. 3. San Francisco to San Jose This journey is the first stage of the trip from San Fran- cisco to Los Angeles by the Coast Route. Another way to reach San Jose from San Francisco is through Oakland along the east shore of the bay, a route treated in a later portion of this book (consult table of contents). The Coast Line of the Southern Pacific, after leaving the Third-street depot in San BYancisco, runs south along the bay by way of the Bay Shore Cut-off, into San Mateo county and past San Bruno Mountain (1,315 feet) to South San Fran- cisco (9). SAN MATEO COUNTY has an area of 447 square miles, occupying the larger part of che San Francisco penin- sula. This county is divided lengthwise by the Santa Morena lange of mountaiiis, forming the backbone of the peninsula. The mountain ridge is the fertile and picturesque watershed of a region peculiarly adapted on its eastern slope for homes of beau-ty and comfort. Along the bay shore are many miles of deep water, and spur tracks to this deep water are now under construction, thereby opening up vast possibilities to manufacturers who desire cheap sites with excellent shipping facilities. On the west the descent to the Pacific is quick and abrupt into a region occupied by prosperous farmers, dairy- men, stock raisers and lumbermen. (See Route lb.) The ridge is everywhere accessible, full of brooks and springs, and all more or less covered with oak and redwood. Climatic and scenic surroundings, shipping facilities, proximity to the metropolis of the Pacific Coast, are all favorable conditions working toward the prosperity of this county. The population in 1910 was 26,585; in 1900 it was 12,094. SOUTH SAN FRANCISCO is a town with a population of 1,989 in 1910. It is growing in industrial importance. From here the line extends through San Bruno (2), Millbrae (3) and Easton (1), all thriving residential districts, to Burlingame (1). BURLINGAME long has been a home tov/n. The pop- ulation in 1910 was 1,565. The Burlingame Country Club is the suburban club of wealthy San Franciscans. The res- idences are costly and architecturally attractive. The polo field at Burlingame has been the scene of many international tournaments. West of Burlingame is the town of HILLS- BOROUGH. Here is located the St. Matthew's Military Acad- emy (founded in 1866), on a fine site overlooking the bay. South of Burlingame is San Mateo (1), the intervening ter- ritory rapidly settling up. 85 SAN MATEO is a progreBbive city of about 6,000 popula- tion; in 1910 it had 4,384 people, and in 1900, 1,832. (Peninsula Hotel; Union Hotel, $2 up.) It is distinctly a residence city, but has also business interests to assure prosperity. There are attractive public buildings, including a free library and high school. The Peninsula Hotel is a large tourist hotel, situated in extensive and beautiful grounds. Aulo trips about San Mateo include many delightful drives. One of the most enjoyable is the North Lake Drive, to the southwest, up San Mateo Canyon to Crystal Si)rings Lake (5 miles long), passing by Crystal Springs Dam, the second largest in the world (4 miles), and thence northwest to San Andreas Lake (3 miles long), thence northeast to Millbrae and thence southeast to San Maleo. The entire circuit is 20 miles. The lakes are the property of the Spring Valley Water Company, and at present furnish the main water supply of San Francisco. To the west of San Andreas and Crystal Springs Lakes lies Pilar- citos Lake (over 1 mile long). Another pleasant drive is that by Crystal Springs Lake, through the picturesque San Gab- ilan Pass to Half Moon Bay (see Route lb), a distance of 15 miles. Las Pulgas Drive, a circuit of thirty miles, is by way of the lakes, through Canyada Valley to Redwood City and thence northeast to San Mateo. The Summit Drive, via Wloodside and Redwood City (circut 40 miles), reaches the summit of King's IVIountain, (2.000 feet). The pleasant Wood- side and Portola Valleys on this route are growing residence sections. The main route from San Mateo runs through Peresford (2), where there are golf links and a country club, to BEL- MONT (2). Here is situated the Belmont Military Academy, to the west of the town. The canyon in which it is located is picturesque and an extended view of the country may be had from Belmont Hill (530), to the south of the town. From Belmont the route continues through San Carlos (1), to Red- wood City (2), REDWOOD CITY, the county seat of San Mateo County, had a population of 2.442 in 1910. (Tremont Hotel, $1.50; Redwood City House, $1.25.) It owes its name to the red- wood which formerly grew in the hills above here and which was shipped to San Francisco in the early days to build that city; the first raft of red\\cod was sent in 1850. There are several factories in the city and its industrial future seems assured, in view of the develonment of deep water frontage on Redwcod Inlet. Among the public buildings are a fine stone court house, the City Library, and the Union High School (facing Broadway). A stage crosses the Sierra Mor- 86 ena daily from Redwood to Pescadero (31 miles), passing through Woodside (see above) to La Honda (14 miles from Redwood). The redwood forests on the coast side of the hills are most inviting; the trees are of great size, many over 200 feet high. The road runs through these trees for several miles along the torrential Pescadero Creek, to the town of Pescadero. (See Route lb.) From Redwood City the route continues through Atherton (3) and MENLO PARK (1), a pretty residential town (Oak Grove Villa, $1.50 up), into Palo Alto, in Santa Clara County. The main portion of SANTA CLARA COUNTY is a fruitful valley, noted for its equable climate, its pleasant scenery and its abundani products. On the western side of the valley are the foothills of the Santa Cruz mountains, part of the Coast Range, rising to a height of four thousand feet. To an equal altitude on the eastern side of the Santa Clara Valley rise the rounded terraces of the inner Coast Range. Forests of redv/ood, pine, madrona and laurel cover these mountains. The uplands furnish sport for the deer and quaii hunter. Mountain streams cut small ravines through the val- ley. Among the marshes and at the brink of the bay, duck-hunting and salt-water fishing are offered the sports- man. The SANTA CLARA VALLEY was compared by Captain George Vancouver, commander of the English ship "Dis- covery," who visited it in 1792, to a park laid out by some studied plan. This was when the country was in its native state, and now the effect is even more pleasing and restful to the eye. The landscape is dotted with homes; four hun- dred miles of well-kept roads cut the valley into a mosaic of a thousand pieces, and everywhere are the regular rows of orchards, totaling eight million trees. Santa Clara county is almost exclusively a fruit-raising district. It claims the largest fruit cannery and the largest fruit-packing house in the world. The prune crop is by far the heaviest; there are in the county 5,549,280 prune trees. This fruit was imported from France in 1853, and the millions of trees now yielding fruit are the outgrowth of the small grove planted in the eastern foothills near Evergreen by Monsieur P. Pellier. The 1912 prune crop was officially es- timated at 13,0'00,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000,000.- 000 primes — which shows the magnitude of the industry. Besides prunes, the county raises quantities of apricots, pears, peaches and cherries. The output of canned fruits is 1,000,000 cases. Figs, grapes and olives have thrived here 87 since their introduction by tlie early Spanish settlers. At the time of the gold excitement, this district furnished the miners with agricultural produce, and farming still flourishes. Among other important products are seeds; carloads of seed are sent Bast every year from Santa Clara county nurseries and seed farms. The area of the county is 1,328 square miles. The population in 1910 was 83,539; in 1900 it was 60,218. At the last census, Santa Clara was the fourth county in the state in lyopulation, being exceeded by Los An- geles, San Francisco and Alameda counties. The city of PALO ALTO may be termed the northern gateway to the Santa Clara Valley. As the seat of the Leland Stanford Junior University, it is known the world over as an educational center. The population within the municipal limits is about 5,000 (census of 1910, 4,486) ; but the surrounding population is so closely knit together as to form a single community of over 10,000 inhabitants, within a two-mile radius, of which Palo Alto is the social and busi- ness center. The suburbs not within the city limits include Atherton, Menlo Park, Fair Oaks, the University Campus, Mayfield, Alba Park. Boyce Tract, North Palo Alto and South Palo Alto. Palo Alto is a popular residence city, with well-paved streets, attractive homes and a wealth of trees and flowers. The first house in Palo Alto was built among the live oaks in 1891 and the grand old trees are carefully protected and found growing in the streets and avenues of the city, as well as adding to the charm of the private grounds. The name Palo Alto signifies in Spanish "tall tree," but the redwood which gave this appellation has disappeared. Municipal im- provements are numerous, the city owning its water and light facilities. The public buildings include the City Hall (on Ramona street), the Public Library and the High School. Besides the public schools, Palo Alto has a number of private schools, attracted here by the proximity of the great univer- sity. St. Patrick's Seminary, among the foremost Catholic theological schools of the West, adjoins Palo Alto on the north; the buildings were erected at a cost of over $1,000,000. Sacred Heart Academy is two miles to the northwest; in the city are the Manzanita school for boys and the Castilleja and Harker schools for girls. Palo Alto is the northern terminus of the Peninsular Rail- way, which runs southeast to San Jose. Lines run from the city westward into the prune orchard district and the foot- hills. About Palo Alto there are many small agricultural holdings where dairying, poultry raising, seed growing, celery 88 culture and berry farming are carried on. North of the city about two miles the great Dumbarton bridge crosses the bay of San Francisco, carrying transcontinental traffic to the metropolis. West of the railway is the Stanford stock-farm of nine thousand acres; some of the famous race horses of the country were bred here. The Leiand Stanford Junior University is situated imme- diately west of Palo Alto, and from the tourist's standpoint is the most interesting feature in this region. The campus is reached by carline directly from the center of the city. The University was founded by Governor (afterwards Sena- tor) Leiand Stanford and Mrs. Jane L. Stanford in memory of their only child. It has an endowment fund of almost $40,000,000; this great fortune was acquired by Leiand Stan- lord, one of the four builders of the Central and Southern Pacific Railroad system. Established in 1885, the University was thrown open to students in October, 1891. The campus of the LTniversity is spacious and well kept, with drives and boulevards. The main buildings are situated about a mile from the entrance. The various halls, labora- tories and lecture rooms are in the form of a great quad- rangle, 960 feet on each side. The inner court is 536 by 246 feet. The buildings are not all completed according to the original plan, but new structures are being added constantly. Stanford University presents the most extensive and elaborate example of the mission style of building. The architectural motive, conceived by H. H. Richardson, is taken from the characteristic architecture of the San Antonio Mission. The buildings are of buff sandstone, the stone work of broken ashlar, with rough rock face, and the roofs are covered with red tiles. The open arches and long colonnades are har- monious features of the architectural style. The Inner Quadrangle consists of twelve one-story build- ings and the Memorial Ciiurch. The church has been de- clared by authorities to be one of the most imposing and artistic religious edifices in the country. The interior is elab- orately decorated. Though greatly damaged by the earth- quake of 1906, the work of restoring the chapel is well on the road to completion. Outer Quadrangle contains fourteen buildings connected on the exterior side by open arcades. Behind the Quadrangle (known to the students as the "Quad") is a long row of two-story buildings in which are established the scientific and mechanical departments. Still farther back are the fraternity and sorority houses, the homes of the faculty and university officers and boarding houses for stu- dents, the whole forming a community of 2500 people. 89 Recent improvements have been made upon the Univer- sity campus, but the next few years will see the building ac- tivity increased. A new library building which will accom- modate 1,000,000 volumes, a new gymnasium costing f.75,000 and a concrete football stadium, equal to that of either Har- vard or Yale, will be included in the program of construc- tion. Work upon the restoration of the museum north of the campus (which suffered in the earthquake of ]906) will be begun. Stanford University is open to the yoath of the state, who are instructed here in all the departments of learning. The University course includes liberal arts, civil and elec- trical engineering, mining and jurisprudence. The Cooper Medical College, in San Francisco is affiliated with the Uni- versity. There are about 2,000 students at Stanford. The women students are limited in number to 500' by the decrees of the founders. The faculty of Stanford University in- cludes authorities in all branches of knowledge. Dr. David Starr Jordan, President of the institution from its beginning to 1913, guided the upbuilding of the University. He now holds the position of Chancellor. Dr. J. C. Branner has been made President. From Palo Alto the Southern Pacific line runs to May- field (2), a residence city with a population of 1900. (May- field Inn, $1.75.) A branch road runs from Mayfield southeast to Los Gatos. The route extends through a foothill district with many orchards and suburban homes. From Mayfield the line is through Los Altos (4), Monta Vista (5), Congress Junction (4). Quito (1), to Vasona Junction (2), where it joins the main line, continuing to Los Gatos (3). (See route 4.) The tracks of this route are used in common by the Southern Pacific Company and the Peninsular Electric Rail- way from Mayfield to Monta Vista, where the latter line turns east toward San Jose. The main route continues from Mayfield to Mountain View (4), a progressive residence town of 2,500, surrounded by orchards and grain fields. (American Hotel, $L) From here is reached Sunnyvale (3), the fruit-shipping center of the west side of the Santa Clara Valley, and an important manufacturing town; the population is 2,000. The railroad from Sunnyvale extends through Lawrence (2) to Santa Clara (3). SANTA CLARA is one of California's old mission towns. The population in 1910 was 4,348; at present it is over 5,000. The city has attractive residences and large commercial in- 90 terests. It is a shipping center for the orchards and seed farms of the surrounding country. The factories include a number of large industrial establishments. The Town Hall (Main and Benton streets), Public Library (on Main street) and High School (Bellomy and Washington streets) are prom- inent public buildings. (Santa Clara Hotel, E. P.; Pipes Hotel, E. P. $1 up.) The University of Santa Clara is one of the leading Roman Catholic educational institutions of the West. The Univer- sity has an attendance of 1200 students. The campus con- tains many imposing structures and new buildings are being erected at a cost of over $1,000,000'. The institution was for- merly known as Santa Clara College, but was recently em- powered to assume the position of a university. Founded in 1851, it is the oldest college on the Pacific Coast. Santa Clara College grew up about the old Mission Santa Clara, which still stands on the grounds. The Mission Santa Clara was founded January 12, 1777, being the eighth of the Franciscan Missions established in California. Father Tomas de la Pena presided at the foun- dation. The present structure is the third to be erected by the parish of Santa Clara. The original adobe walls of this church were replaced by wooden ones in 1885. The exterior has been further changed by the replacing of the bell tower and facade with the belfries at either end of the front. Al- though the mission structure has been restored to such a de- gree externally, the interior remains practically as it was in the days of the padres, with furnishings and ornamenta- tions almost unchanged. Many sacred relics are within the church, the old pulpit, the large crucifix, the tabernacle, the candelabra shelves, the reredos (background of the main altar) and the copy of the miraculous and historic painting of "Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe." There are wooden statues of St. Joachim, St. Ann, St. John Capistran (San Juan Capistrano) and St. Colette. There are besides many other statues and medallions. Much of the interior decora- tion of Mission Clara is of interest. There are three old bells, donated to the mission by the King of Spain, in the belfry to the right. Two bear the dates 1798 and 1799 and the third bears the double date of 1805-64, having been recast in 1864. In the University Library there are other historic relics of former days, including missals, breviaries and vestments, as well as early paintings relating to the Mission life. Santa Clara Mission was connected with the Pueblo of San Jose by a portion of El Camino Real known as the Alameda. It has a broad tree-shaded road. 91 much traveled in the early days, and has of late years been restored. The city of SAN JOSE (pronounced San Ho-say), is south- east of Santa Clara, the two cities being practically one com- munity. It is the largest city of the Santa Clara Valley and is the county seat. At the 1910 census, the population cred- ited was 28,946, but the gain during the succeeding years has been great. Postoffice reports and the city directory census show a population of approximately 48,000. San Jose's com- mercial importance is augmented by a rich tributary region, and Port San Jose, to be developed near Alviso, nine miles to the north on San Francisco bay, will increase its trade; the region about Port San Jose is within the municipality of San Jose. The manufacturing plants are numerous and im- portant. Among the industries of interest to tourists are the large fruit canneries and dried fruit packing houses. The brick factories are among the most extensive in the West. As a residence city, San Jose ranks especially high. It de- serves its fame as the "Garden City." The twenty square miles of the city's area are beautified with broad avenues and shady walks. There is a great wealth of flowers, trees and shrubs, mainly semi-tropic. The city is particularly noted for its roses, of which there are over 165 varieties growing in the city's gardens. San Jose is one of the historic cities of California, al- though not a mission town. It w^as founded on November 29, 1777, three miles south of the Mission of Santa Clara, and was the first pueblo to be established in Alta California (the present state). Its full title was San Jose de Guadalupe. It is a fact of historical interest that Don Caspar de Portola and his men, marching up from the south, passed and looked down upon the site of San Jose four years before the Boston Tea Party. There are many noteworthy public buildings in San Jose. The Postoffice (San Fernando and Market streets) is one of the finest built by the government. The City Hall is situated a block south on Market street, facing the City Hall Park. The State Normal School, with attractive buildings of the Mission style, is in the center of Washington Square (bound- ed by Fourth, Seventh, San Fernando and San Carlos streets). Facing San Fernando street, on the eastern corner of Wash- ington Square, is the San Jose High School, and on the western corner of Washington Square is the Public Library, with a collection of 23,539 volumes. The County Court House and the Hall of Records are on First street, facing St. James 92 Square. The Hail of Justice is nearby, at the corner of St. James and Market streets; the county jail is also on this bloclv. Among the private educational institutions are the College of the Pacific (at College Park), a Methodist school, and the College of Notre Dame (on West Santa Clara street), a Roman Catholic institution. San Jose has a number of excellent hotels, including some which appeal particularly to the tourist. Among the hotels are the Vendome, A. P. $3, E. P. $1.50; St. James, A. P. $2.-50 up, E. P. $1 up; Montgomery, E. P. $1 up; Russ House, A. P. $2; Lenox, E; P. 75 cents up; Angelus, E, P. 50 cents up. The park system adds to the beauty of the city. St. James Park (bounded by First, Third, St. John and Santa Clara streets) is said to contain a greater variety of shrubbery growing in the open air than any other park of like size in the world. In this square is the handsome monument to President William McKinley, who delivered an address in this spot shortly before his assassination. The bronze figure is 9 feet high and stands upon a granite base; the monument's total height is 25 feet. Washington Square and City Hall Park are other parts of the park system. Luna Park is a popular amusement center (reached by Luna Park car line). Alum Rock Park, seven miles to the east, is a wonderland where Nature is seen at its best. This is a city park, and the visitor to San Jose should not fail to see it; it is easily reached by electric car or automobile. The tract covers an area of 1,000 acres of mountain and canyon. The Alum Rock Canyon, through which flows the Penilencia creek, is situated between mountains which rise to the north to the height of 2,114 feet above sea-level, and to the south to 1,889 feet. The creek is lined with s^^camore, madrona, laurel and oak trees. There are sixteen mineral springs in the canyon, with waters differing in composition. There are hot and cold springs, containing sulphur, soda, iron, magnesia, arsenic and various compounds. The city has made many improvements in Alum Rock Park, including the laying out of attractive Avalks and drives, the erection of a restaurant and the building of plunge and tub baths. There are also deer paddocks, a bear den and an aviarj''. An object of interest is Alum Rock, a pinnacle towering over the canyon. The Meteor, w^hich is partially im- bedded in the earth, is a curiosity. On the way to Alum Rock are the Linda Vista golf links and a large ostrich farm. There are many attractive side trips about San Jose. The lines of the Peninsular Railway (electric) extend through a large region to the west. One route of this railway runs north- 93 west through Meridian (5^^), Cupertino (3i/^), Monta Vista (1) and thence along the route already described (see under Mayfield), through Los Altos (51/2) to May field (4), and thence to Palo Alto iiy2). Another Peninsular Railway trip which is popular with tourists is that describing a "loop," beginning at San Jose and ending there, after a picturesque ride through the foothills to the west. This route is through Meridian, where it turns southwest to Moreland, continuing Ihrougli Saratoga to CONGRESS SPRINGS (Congress Hall, $2). This is a favorite recreation ground situated in a picturesque foot- hill canyon; the mineral springs add to the value as a resort. Congress Springs is a point of departure for Califor- nia Redwood Park (Big Basin), distant 18 miles by trail (guide at hotel, by appointment). From Congress Springs the elec- tric railway runs to Los Gatos (described under Route 4, be- low) and thence northeast through Campbell, Hamilton and Fairfield to San Jose. Other delightful rides by electric lines are to Santa Clara and its Mission and to Alum Rock Park. A favorite drive by carriage or automobile is to Berryessa, a short distance northeast of San Jose; the road runs through a model fruit region. The so-called "Triangle" is a magnifi- cent valley and foothill drive, running through Santa Clara and Sunnyvale to Mountain View, returning to San Jose through Cupertino, Los Gatos, Campbell, the Dry Creek road and the Willows. There are short automobile drives out of San Jose to the north, reaching Alviso (Port San Jose), where there are yachting, fishing, rowing and bathing; beyond is Saline City (Drawbridge), where there are good fishing and hunting. Drives to the southeast reach Lomas Azules, Ever- green and Edenvale, places of beautiful homes and fine orchards. The New Almaden trip can be made by either of two routes over the lines of the Southern Pacific Company. The first route is from San Jose through Campbell (4) and Thona (6) to New Almaden (5). The second is through Hillsdale (5) and Greystone (6) to New Almaden (2), The New Almaden quicksilver mines are worth traveling far to see. They are famous for having produced the largest amount of quicksilver of all American mines. They were named after the equally noted Almaden quicksilver mines of Spain. The extent of the operations which have been carried on here for many years may be judged by the fact that here are over eighty miles of tunnels. The Hacienda at New Almaden is among the pic- turesque villages of California. The recent discovery of new deposits of cinnabar near here assures the growth of the quicksilver industry in Santa Clara county. 94 San Jose is also the point of departure for Mount Hamilton and the Lick Observatory. The observatory is 13 miles east from San Jose as the crow flies, but 27 miles by road. A daily stage runs from the city to the observatory, making the trip up the mountain in 5i/4 hours, and the return in 4 hours. The road to the observatory is one of the best mountain roads in the state and is excellent for automobile travel; it passes through some of the most beautiful of mountain scenery. Luncheon and dinner are had at Santa Ysabel (Santa Ysabel Hotel, $2 per day), near Smith Creek, This is a fishing and hunting resort popular with summer visitors. LICK OBSERVATORY is situated on the summit of Mount Hamilton, 4,209 feet above sea level. Its white domes are visible from all portions of the Santa Clara Valley. The observatory was endowed by James Lick with $750,00*0. His body lies buried under the great telescope, which is the second largest refracting telescope in the world. The Lick Observa- ■ tory is open to the public; visitors are allowed to look through the large telescope on Saturday evenings only. A day trip is well worth while, however, as the equipment of astronomical instruments is complete and interesting. The many photo- graphs of the moon, stars, planets and other phenomena of the skies are likewise instructive. The Lick Observatory is a part of the University of California. 4. San Jose to Santa Cruz This route, while not on the "Coast Line" of the Southern Pacific running direct to Los Angeles, may be taken without a long detour, as the main line may be reached again at Wat- sonville Junction (Pajaro). The trip to Santa Cruz is en- joyable, because of the mountain and ocean scenery and the attractions of the city of Santa Cruz. The journey from San Jose through Gilroy, Watsonville Junction and Castroville is described under Route 5. Santa Cruz can be reached from this line also, as a side trip from Watsonville Junction. The Santa Cruz branch of the Southern Pacific runs south- west from San Jose through Campbell (4), a pretty orchard town, to Los Gatos (6). LOS GAT'OS, "the Gem City of the Foothills," is situated at the mouth of a deep and picturesque canyon, which divides the city in half. A massive bridge of stone, steel and con- crete arches the canyon and joins the two sections of the 95 city. Los Gatos has many beautiful residences, built in the canyons and on the hillsides, from 350 to 1,500 feet above sea level. The population of the city is about 3,500, but there are always many visitors, as Los Gatos is popular as a sum- mer and winter resort. (Hotel Lyndon, A. P. $2.50, E. P. $1.) Los Gatos contains several parks and plazas which afford pleasant views over the valley and its orchards. The public buildings include a Public Library (with 5,510 volumes) and a High School, of attractive mission architecture. The No- vitiate of the Sacred Heart, a Jesuit training college, with several imposing buildings, holds a commanding situation on the hillside above the city. The view from the large bridge (near the railway station) down into the canyon of Los Gatos creek is impressive. There are many inviting trips about Los Gatos. The road up the Los Gatos canyon toward Santa Cruz is popular with automobilists and walking parties. Alma Soda Springs, Con- gress Mineral Springs, Nippon Mura and Saratoga are popular resorts within easy reach. Most of the side trips described under San Jose (see Route 3) may be taken from Los Gatos by electric railway or automobile. Tramping and hunting in the mountains above the city are popular diversions in the summer months. Tliese highlands once were infested by many small mountain lions or wildcats, which caused the early Spanish settlers to give the name Los Gatos (The Cats) to the locality. These animals have entirely disappeared from the vicinity, though the hunter may still find them oc- casionally in the higher Santa Cruz Mountains. The railroad continues from Los Gatos on the ascent of the rugged mountain range, passing through Lyndon (2), Alma (1) and Eva (3) to Wright (1), v/hence a road leads to The Willows, a popular summer resort, situated at an altitude of 1,800 feet above sea level. From Wright the route enters SANTA CRUZ COUNTY at Laurel. Santa Cruz is the smallest county in area in the state, outside of San Francisco, covering but 435 square miles. In shape the county forms a rude cres- cent, reaching from the Santa Cruz Mountains to the ocean and Monterey Bay, The scenery of both the mountain and coast regions is famous. The county is popular with tourists and summer campers, many thousands sojourning here every year. The principal agricultural industries are carried on in the wonderfully fertile Pajaro Valley in the south. This is one of the most celebrated apple-growing regions in the West, 96 Horticulture and floriculture are important industries in many parts of Santa Cruz county. Dairying and lumbering are carried on in the mountain regions, while commercial deep- sea fishing is another great resource. The population of the county in 1910 was 26,140. The Spanish name Santa Cruz signifies "Holy Cross." The Southern Pacific line from Laurel runs through beau- tiful mountain scenery to Glenwood (1^/^). (Glen wood Hotel, $2 up.) Near here are the picturesquely situated town of Skyland and the Hotel de Redwood. Loma Prieta (3800 feet), the highest point in the Santa Cruz Mountains, lies to the east. Throughout this mountain region there is excellent hunting for quail and deer in season, as well as fishing in the torren- tial creeks. There is much timberland, covered with red- wood, madrona, pine and other trees, making the Santa Cruz Mountain region most delightful for summer "camping out.'' The route from Glenvv'ood thi'ough Zayante (4) to Eccles (2) and thence to Mount Hermon (2). Here is a reservation of 400 acres of giant redwoods, a mountain resort owned by an association representing the Presbyterian Church. Prom here the railroad runs to FELTON (1). This is a junction point whence the line runs to Boulder Creek, near the Big Basin Redwood Park. (This side trip is described under Section a of the route.) Felton is a shipping point for the vineyards and orchards of the surrounding mountain and hill region. (Grand Central Hotel, $1.50.) Many popular resorts are located in the vicinity. From Felton the main route coniinues to Big Trees station (1). Here is a grove of giant redwoods which are even larger than those in Big Basin. This is known as Fremont Grove, because of the fact that General Fremont and a body of sol- diers camped here for several months in the winter of 1848, sheltered in a great hollow tree. Many of the sequoias here have their lowest branches 75 to 100 feet above the ground. "Giant," the largest tree in the grove, is 306 feet high and 64 feet in circumference. This is the most easily accessible of any of the groves of big trees in California. The park con- tains twenty acres. From the Big Trees the railroad extends down the San Lorenzo canyon, past the great Dupont Powder Works (4), one of the largest in the West, employing 300 men. There are many lime kilns along this route, the production of lime and the manufacture of Portland cement being important industries of Santa Cruz county. After passing the powder works the city of Santa Cruz is reached (2). Route from San Jose to Santa Cru: 98 SANTA CRUZ is picturesquely situated at the upper end of Monterey Bay. The population is over 12,000. Santa Cruz is an old mission town, but the mission, founded in 1791, has disappeared. A memorial arch stands on its former site be- fore the present Catholic church. The myrtle-covered bury- ing ground of the mission is one remaining relic of the past. A settlement called Branciforte was established near the mis- sion in 1797 on the site of the present city. Though chiefly known as a seaside resort, Santa Cruz is growing along com- mercial and industrial lines. There are important manufac- tures and the harbor improvements are being increased. The public library is a handsome building, containing a collection of over 15,000 volumes. The United States postoffice is an- other imposing structure. The city possesses Laveaga Park, a magnificent recreation ground on the headlands, as well as a number of smaller parks and plazas. Laveaga Park, still in its natural beauty, embraces an area of 565 acres; from here a commanding view is had. The greatest attraction in Santa Cruz is the seashore. The beach is of smooth white sand, firmly packed, which pro- vides excellent surf bathing at all seasons of the year. A splendid Casino (costing over $800,000), offers many forms of amusement. There is a bathing pavilion, as well as a great pleasure pier. In conjunction with the Casino, is oper- ated the Casa Del Rey, a popular tourist hotel. A point of much interest along the beach is the wharf, the center of the extensive deep-sea fishing industry. At the wharf can be hired boats, with expert fishermen as guides. A board walk leads from the Casino to the mouth of the San Lorenzo River, to the east. Monterey Bay is particularly famed for its king salmon fishing, but many barracuda, yellowtail, smelt, sea bass, bonita, sole, flounder, kingfish, halibut, rock cod, pom- pano and some tuna are caught. Practically every kind of fish native to California's shores is found in the waters of the bay. Boating and yachting on the bay and San Lorenzo River are popular amusements. The Casa del Rey golf links (18-hole course) are among the best on the Pacific Coast, and the situation is ideal. The walks and rides in and about Santa Cruz are pleasant. The trip to the Fremont Big Tree Grove (6 miles) is popular, many reaching the grove by train and returning on foot through San Lorenzo Canyon. Inspiration Point, an elevation commanding a view of the bay, hills and the city, is reached by Ocean Cliff cars. (Get off at Highland avenue and walk to the point.) The Ocean Cliff car follows a scenic route, reaching Garfield Park and Cliff Museum, Swan ton Park, Arch Rock, the lighthouse on Santa Cruz Point and Seacroft. Another attract- 99 ive trolley-trip is to Seabright, Twin Lakes, Santa Maria del Mar, the cars leaving corner of Pacific and Soquel avenues (civic center). There are many excellent hotels in Santa Cruz, as well as the seaside and mountain resorts within easy reach of the city. Among the leading hotels are: Hotel Casa Del Rey, E. P. $2; Riverside Hotel, A. P. $2 up (see advertising sec- tion); Hotel Hageman, $2; Hotel Waldo, E. P. $1 up; Pope House, $2.50; Santa Cruz Plotel, A. P. $2 up; Sea Beach Hotel, A. P. $3 up; St. George Hotel, A. P. $3 up, E. P. $1.50 up. The Cliff Drive is a picturesque boulevard leading west- ward along the coast for miles. TTie Blackburn Gulch and Scott's Valley roads are scenic routes to the north of Santa Cruz. In Blackburn Gulch is the Santa Cruz Mountain Winery, where the cellars are tunneled in the solid rock, main- taining uniform temperature throughout the year. Pleasant walks and drives take the visitor to the neighboring seaside resorts of Seabright, Twin I^akes and Capitcla. North of Cap- itola is Soquel (1), a picturesque agricultural village. Most of the roads about Santa Cruz are ideal for motoring, popular automobile trips being those over the mountains by way of Soquel and Wright to San Jose, and also that along the coast to the west. This latter route follows the general course of the Ocean Shore Railway and the Davenport branch of the Southern Pacific. From Santa Cruz the Ocean Shore Railway runs a line northward along the coast through Rapetti (2) to Davenport (11). Thence this route extends through Davenport Landing (2) and Folger (1) to Swanton (2). This is the present ter- minus, but the line is to be extended north to meet the northern division of this road in San Mateo County. The Davenport branch of the Southern Pacific follows the coast line through Orby (2) and Godola (5) to Davenport (4). Near DAVENPORT is the great plant of the Santa Cruz Portland Cement Company, one of the largest In the United States, employing 500 men. There are also large lumber mills and bituminous rock quarries. The rock is used as paving ma- terial. Northeast of Davenport is the resort town of Bonnie Doon, at the base of Ben Lomond. The trip from Santa Cruz to Monterey is described later under Section b of this route; the first part of this route (as far as Watsonville Junction) is that followed by tourists to Los Angeles. Appended are the side trips from the route from San Jose to Santa Cruz. They are (a) from Felton to Boulder Creek, and (b) from Santa Cruz to Monterey. 100 ( a ) From Felton to Boulder Creek The branch line of the Southern Pacific Railroad from Fel- ton extends northwest along the beautiful San Lorenzo river, reaching the town of BEN LOMOND (4), a charming resi- dential point at the base of Ben Lomond (2,500 feet). Hotel Ben Lomond, $2.50 up; The Dickenson, $2.50; Hotel Rowar- dennan, $2.50 up; (see advertising pages). The Rowardennan hotel is situated on the river, three miles from the Santa Cruz Big Trees and twelve from the California State Redwood Park. The Legislature has provided for the construction of a new road into the Redwood Park, but the present road pro- vides a good route for automobiles, Ben Lomond and Row- ardennan are points of departure for other resorts in the Santa Cruz Mountains. The railroad runs from Ben Lomond through Siesta (1) to Brookdale (1). At this place is situated the Santa Cruz County Fish Hatchery, where many million salmon and trout eggs are hatched annually to stock the mountain streams that empty into Monterey Bay. F^om Brookdale the line extends to the terminus, the town of Boulder Creek (2), situated in a region of great scenic charm at the point where Boulder Creek, a mountain stream, joins the San Lorenzo River. (Commercial Hotel, A. P. $2.50.) The stage road leading to the California State Redwood Park (Big Basin) follows the course of the creek northwest 7 miles. TTie park is situated in v/hat is known as Big Basin, and includes 3800 acres. It was set apart by the state in 1902 as a public reserve. It contains some of the finest redwoods (Sequoia Sempervirens). While not the big tree (Sequoia Gigantea) of the scientists, which grows only in the Sierras, these redwoods are immense. Many specimens measure 25 feet in diameter and 300' feet in height each. (b) Santa Cruz to Monterey From the city of Santa Cruz the Southern Pacific line runs southeast through Seabright (1), Twin Lakes (1) and Del Mar (1), to Capitola (2), an ideal seaside resort, with cottage city and camp sites. (Hotel Capitola, $3 up.) The route con- tinues to Aptos (3), Here there are stock farms, where some famous trotting horses were bred. From here is reached the town of Loma Prieta by a branch line lo the north. The route extends from Aptos to Watsonville (11). 101 WATSONVILLE is a city of 5000 people in the fruit ship- ping center of the fertile Pajaro Valley. (Hotel Appleton, A. P. $3, E. P. $1; Mansion House, $2.) The city has a public library and other handsome public buildings. The large Wat- sonville pavilion (110 by 220 feet) is used for exhibition pur- poses, especially to house the annual apple show. The Pajaro Valley is one of the largest apple-producing regions in the world. Berries, sugar beets and choice vegetables are grown 'on a large scale. Tliere are four beautiful lakes in this valley, near Watsonville, where there is good fishing, and hunting for wild ducks in season. Auto roates from Watson- ville include runs to Moss Landing, Dumbarton and Chitten- den; from the latter two can be reached the old Mission San Juan Bautista. From Watsonville the route reaches (2) Watsonville Junc- tion (Pajaro), where it joins the main line of the Southern Pacific until it comes to Castroville (10), where it turns south- west to Del Monte, Monterey and Pacific Grove. This latter stage of the journey is described under Route 5, San Jose to Monterey, where the Monterey Peninsula and its attractions are treated in detail. 5. San Jose to Monterey This route is along the main line of the Southern Pacific as far as Castroville, where a short branch runs to Monterey, Pacific Grove and Del Monte. While these communities are not on the direct route from San Francisco to Los Angeles, every traveler in California is urged to visit them. The Mon- terey peninsula contains some remarkable scenic attractions, and the region is rich in romantic associations. The railroad (Coast Line of the Southern Pacific) runs from San Jose southeast in a fertile valley orchard region through Hillsdale (5), Edenvale (2), Coyote (5), Perry (4), and Madrone (2), to Morgan Hill (2), a growing orchard town with a fruit packing house and cannery. From here the route extends through San Martin (4) to Gilroy (6). GILROY is one of the oldest cities in the Santa Clara Valley and is the shipping center of the southern part of the valley. (Central Hotel, $2; Southern Pacific Hotel, $2.) The rich surrounding territory produces large quantities of hay, grain, vegetables, dairy products and live stock. Near here are the largest seed 102 farms. The population is about 3,500 and the town is grow- ing steadily. In the Mount Hamilton spur of the Coast Range, to the eastward, is the popular health resort, Gilroy Hot Springs (14), situated at an elevation of 1-240 feet. (Gilroy Hot Springs Hotel, $3 up.) From Gilroy the Tres Pinos branch of the Southern Pacific Company runs southeast into San Benito county, reaching HoUister and Tres Pinos. This attractive side trip is described below under Section a of this Route. From Gilroy the main line runs to Sargent (6), whence an- other side trip is made by stage to the old Mission San Juan Bautista, one of the best preserved of the early Franciscan establishments. This trip is described below under Section b of this Route. The railroad continues from Sargent through Chittenden (5), Aromas (3) and Vega (2) to Watsonville Junction (3), formerly known as Pajaro. From here the traveler can take a side trip northwest through Watsonville to Santa Cruz (see under Route 4b). After passing Aromas the traveler has en- tered Monterey County. MONTEREY COUNTY contains some of the most beautiful -coast and mountain scenery in the state. Moreover, this re- gion has probably the most historic and romantic associations of any in California, The area is 3,330 square miles, with large valleys set in the rolling hills and rugged mountains. The principal valleys are the Salinas and Pajaro Valleys, the former extending the length of the county. The population of Monterey County in 1910 was 24,146; at the previous census it was 19,380. The most important agricultural products are sugar beets, potatoes, fruit and grain. Dairying and cattle- raising are leading industries. There are many summer and winter resorts in Monterey County, both on the ocean and in- land, that are popular with tourists. Watsonville Junction (Pajaro), is a railroad r-enter and is of importance as a shipping point for that part of Pajaro Val- ley lying in Monterey County. From here the line runs through Elkhorn (6) to Castroville (4i/^). This is a consider- able farm center, with a population of 800. Two miles from the town are two curious lakes, the source of whose water supply is unknown. From Castroville the main Coast Line continues southeast up the Salinas Valley, while the route to Monterey extends southwest. The former is described under Route 6 of this book, Monterey to San Luis Obispo. 103 The line to Del Monte and Monterey runs from Castro- vllle through Nashua (2), Neponset (1) and Bardin (2) to SEASIDE (S). This picturesQue little town occupies a de- lightful situation on Monterey Bay and is growing in favor as u. summer resort. To the east of the town are Del Monte Heights and Vista Del Mar. From Seaside the railroad con- tinues to Del Monte (1), noted as the location of the Hotel Del Monte. HOTEL DEL MONTE, one of the famous resorts on the Pacific Coast, is an immense building of Swiss architecture^ containing over 500 rooms. This is one of the headquarters of pleasure seekers at all seasons. The grounds of the hotel form a magnificent park, which is open to visitors. The 125 acres of lawns and flower beds are the result of more than a quarter of a century of landscape gardening. The grounds contain 1,366 different varieties of plant life; there are 78 va- rieties of coniferous trees, 210 varieties of- evergreen trees and shrubs, 114 of deciduous trees and shrubs, 285 of herbace- ous plants and 90 varieties of roses. In the Arizona garden the are 63 different kinds of cactus, besides other desert plants. Near the rose garden is a replica of the famous maze at Hampton Court, England, The opportunities for sport are varied. There are an eighteen-hole golf course, a clock golf course, bitumen tennis courts (where the championship games of the Pacific Coast are contested), polo grounds, bowling green and fields for archery, quoits and croquet. The Del Monte bath-house affords excellent bathing in warm salt wa- ter; there are here a long, sandy beach and a pleasure pier. The scenic boulevards about Del Monte and Monterey afford delight to the automobilist; the famous Seventeen-Mile Drive begins and ends at Del Monte. Another feature of Del Monte is the Art Gallery, where the works of leading California painters, sculptors, etchers and artist-photographers are dis- played. (Hotel Del Monte, A. P. $4 to $6.) Prom Del Monte the route extends to the old city of Monte- rey. MONTEREY is without question one of the most inter- esting places in California and should be visited by every tourist. The city occupies an attractive position on the shore of the Bay of Monterey and its strategic position promises considerable commercial importance with the construction of railroad lines to the interior, which are planned. Monterey's trade by sea is already extensive, more than 500,000 tons of freight being shipped annually. The population of the city in 1910 was 4,923; in 1900 it was J, 749. Tliere are now about 3 0,000 people within the city and its suburbs. (The Monterey, $2.50 up; Central House, $1.50 up.) 104 To the tourist, Monterey is interesting chiefly because of its historic associations and many old landmarl^s. Monterey was the capital of California from 1770 until 1849. The history of this region begins with 1602. when Sebastian Vizcaino dropped anchor in the bay, December 16. He named it after his patron, the Count de Monterey, viceroy of Mexico. He sailed for the north January 3, 1603. In 1606 Philip III., King of Spain, ordered Monterey to be occupied, and provision made there to succor and refit ships sailing to and from the Philippines; but his orders were not carried out, and the citj'' was not founded until over a century and a half later. In 1770 Don Caspar de Portola and Father Junipero Serra arrived and began the settlement, the governor establishing his residence there. Monterey was visited by Vancouver in 1792, and in 1796 the first American ship touched at the port. When the province of California was declared a part of Mexico in 1822, Monterey continued the capital, as well as after the revolution of 1836, when the attempt of the Californians to become inde- pendent of Mexico ended in compromise. In 1846 the town was captured by the Americans and the flag raised over the Custom House. Under the American regime, Monterey held for a short time its political eminence. On September 1, 1849, the first constitutional convention was held in Colton Hall and the foundation laid for the entrance of California into the Union. Though bereft of its former position as the seat of government, Monterey has always attracted visitors. Many famous men have been residents of the city and its vicinity. Among those whose names are associated with this region are Robert Louis Stevenson, Bret Harte, Mark Twain, Joaquin Miller, Ambrose Bierce, Commodore Sloat, Commodore Stock- ton, General Fremont and General Sherman. The historic buildings are numerous and interesting. The old Custom House is probably the most notable. This old Spanish building, constructed of adobe, is in excellent pres- ervation; it is situated on the bay close to the car tracks. Here the American flag was first officially raised in Califor- nia, July 7, 1846, by Commodore Sloat. The flag had previous- ly been raised without authority by Fremont on the peak bear- ing his name near San Juan Bautista (see Section b under this Route), March 11, 1846. Colton Hall, in which was held the first constitutional assembly of California, 1849, is another interesting structure. This building was erected by Walter Colton, the first American clergyman, judge and editor in Cal- ifornia; he was alcalde of Monterey. Colton Hall is under the protection of a board of trustees appointed by the state au- thorities to preserve this historic landmark. To Californians the building holds especial interest, since it was here that the 105 first State Constitution was formulated. Tiie old adobe opera house, the first theater in the state, was built in 1847. Jenny Lind sang here in the early days. The son and daughter of the Swedish Nightingale recently came all the way from England to pay their devotions at this shrine. The little building which served as the first United States postoffice in California is nearby. The ship Natalie, that bore the First Napoleon to Elba, was wrecked in Monterey Bay. The skeleton of the ves- sel may be seen at low tide not far from the shore. Several buildings in Monterey are known as the first of their kind in California. The first brick iiouse in the state, built in 1847, is still standing. Nearby is the first timber house, put up in 1849, built of lumber brought from Australia. T'he first theater and the first postoffice have already been mentioned. Another interesting landmark is the old Washing- ton Hotel, built in 1832. Near it is the Stevenson house, an attraction to lovers of the author's works. It was during the latter part of 1879 that Robert Louis Stevenson sojourned at this place. The home of Governor Alvarado is a low adobe building, shaded by the trees distinctive of the peninsula; Al- varado was the Governor of California from 1836 to 1842. The Hall of Records, in the poetical Spanish language called "the House of the Four Winds," was built in 1824. Not far dis- tant is the home of the first American consul, Thomas O. Lar- kin. The old San Carlos Church, the parish church of Monte- rey, is a point of unusual attention. It is not, property speak- ing, a mission, though it greatly resembles many of the mis- sion structures, especially the San Carlos del Carmelo, or Carmel Mission. It is often confused with the latter because of the similarity of name and the fact that the Monterey church stands on the first site of the mission before it was moved to Carmel. Among the ecclesiastical relics of Monterey are the ruins of a convent, built in 1797, which can still be traced. On every side are to be seen other reminders of the early history of California. Romantic interest attaches to the Sherman Rose, bringing to mind a love affair of the hero of the March to the Sea, while he was a young lieutenant at the Monterey Presidio; he planted it in the yard* of the home of his sweetheart, Senorita Bonifacio. The Presidio of Monterey was founded by Portola in 1770 and served as a military post under Spanish and Mexican rule. After American occupation it continued to be garrisoned but was unimportant until the Spanish-American war. Since then it has been greatly enlarged and has been maintained as a ten-company post, the troops stationed here being for the most part bound for Hawaii and the Philippines, or return- 106 ing from the islands. The total population of the Presidio, military and civilian, is approximately 1,200. From the heights of the United States Military Reservation an extended view is had over the bay and the city. Here is a monument to Junipero Serra, the pioneer Franciscan father, commemorat- ing his landing in 1770 to found the San Carlos Mission. It was erected by Mrs. Leland Stanford in 1891. Near the en- trance to the Presidio is a cross, p'aced by James A. Murray, marking the landing place of the padre. Along the heights there are a number of obsolete cannon, pointing seaward. In the Presidio also is the Sloat Monument, constructed of stones from every county in the state, commemorating the landing of Commodore Sloat in 1846. The beach of Monterey is popular with sea-lovers. The clean, white strand fronts the entire bay shore. TTie fishing industry is an interesting feature of the water-front. There are more than 150 species of food fish in Monterey Bay. The bay is the extreme southern habitat of the cold water fish, and the northern limit of the run of the warm water fish. This produces the great variety of marine life found in these waters. The steelhead trout, salmon, barracuda, yellowtail, sea-bass and skip-jack and even the tuna are taken here. Monterey was formerly the center of the whaUng industry on the Pacific Coast; even yet these huge denizens of the deep may sometimes be seen disporting in the waters of Monterey Bay. Beyond the Presidio is New Monterey, and adjoining this is PACIFIC GROVE, a city of 3,000 inhabitants, a growing residence city and noted as a summer and winter resort. It is situated on the hills and rocky cliffs of the outer peninsula, but is well sheltered. Behind it are the woods which gave it its name. Founded in 1869 as a camp meeting ground, it later became a permanent colony, the Pacific Coast Chautauqua be- ing held here; this is still the location of its annual sessions. Among the other conventions held here regularly are those of the Women's Christian Temperance Union, the Methodist Episcopal Church California Conference, the Itinerants' Club of the Conference, and the Students' Conference of the Young Men's Christian Association. During the summer season at Pacific Grove the visitors increase the population to 10,000. Summer cottages and tents may be rented at reasonable rates; the Pacific Grove Hotel (A. P. $2.50 to $4) and Del Mar Hotel ($1.50) are also popular with vacationists. Pacific Grove has many sheltered beaches, and these pleas- ant coves are among the safest bathing places. Here is sit- uated the Seaside Laboratory of Stanford University and the 107 University of California will spend $250,000 on its marine lab- oratories, fo]- which it has purchased an eight-acre site. The Public Museum is a point of unusual interest. It contains a collection of 10,000 specimens of California flora and fauna, mainly collected about the bay and the Monterey peninsula. The collection of mounted marine animals is one of the finest in the "West. Glass-bottomed boats at Pacific Grove furnish unending de- light for visitors. The clear waters along the coast form a great aquarium and through the windows which take the place of keels in these boats one may look down and observe the denizens of the deep in their native element. Tlie marine gardens, with their sea-mosses and kelp, are to be matched only by those of Santa Catalina island. The strange rock formations and the infinite variety of sea-life seen from the glass-bottomed boats add to the charm of the gardens. Santa Catalina (Avalon) is the only place on the Pacific Coast be- sides Pacific Grove where the wonders of the ocean floor are seen by means of glass-bottomed boats. Although the marine gardens off the Monterey peninsula have been generally known only a few years, they have already become noted. Pacific Grove has several noteworthy public buildings, in- cluding the Public Ijibrary and the High School. A feature of the school system is the chain of public playgrounds. At Lover's Point there is a large bath-house, besides a beach. The Japanese Tea Garden here is another popular attraction. West of Pacific Grove is Point Pinos (Pine Point), on which there is a large government light-house. This point was named Punta de los Pinos by Vizcaino in 1602. Annually, in July. Pacific Grove holds its Lantern Festival, when land and water are lighted in the evening; at this season promenade band concerts are given. The Monterey peninsula has many attractions outside of the cities on its northern shore. These cannot be claimed for any one of them alone, since they are reached with equal facility from Monterey, Pacific Grove or Del Monte. The scenic drives on the peninsula make accessible all of these attractions. The drives, including those recently completed, total over fifty miles of excellent highway. T'he original Seventeen-Mile Drive is well known, and the new Scenic Boulevard offers vistas of hills, woods and the sea which are no less beautiful. The Seventeen-Mile Drive begins at Monterey and runs through Monterey and Pacific Grove to Moss Beach, where there are beautiful sea-mosses to be gathered, and along 108 whose shores extend the white sand dunes. From here are passed Point Joe and Restless Sea and a little farther on the road skirts the coast opposite the Seal Rocks, which com- prise the largest seal rookeries on the Pacific Coast. Farther out to sea are the Bird Rocks, about which swarm hundreds of gulls and other water-fowl. The drive continues between the white sand dunes and the sea along Fan Shell Beach to Cypress Point. On this point and in the grove farther on grow the Monterey cypress, which are found nowhere else in the world than on the Monterey peamsula. These trees are many of them several thousand years old; they somewhat re- semble in form the cedars of Lebanon and the flat-topped cypress trees of Japan. It is believed that the seeds of these trees were swept across the Pacific from Japan by ocean cur- rents. The only groves of Monterey cypress are the one near Cypress Point and another on Point Lobos, south of Carmel Bay. A remarkable formation on Cypress Point is the so- called Ostrich Tree, in reality two cedar trees blown by the force of the winds into a strange shape, somev/hat resembling an ostrich. From here the road leads through the Cypress Grove, covering a tract of limited area. In this grove is the fabled Itzapa Spring, to which Indian and Spanish legends .at- tributed the powers of the Fountain of Youth. Just be- yond is Midway Point, with its strange rock formations which from certain angles appear like ruined battlements, giving to one part the name of Loreleys' Castle. Beyond here are popular picnic grounds; the drive extends around Pes- cadero Point to Pebble Beach, where the Pebble Beach Lodge is operated by the management of the Hotel Del Monte. There are many attractive country homes at Pebble Beach; to the east there is an excellent bathing beach. Arch Rock juts out of Carmel Bay opposite here. From Pebble Beach the Seven- teen-Mile Drive continues past Promontory Point and then crosses the peninsula by way of Pescadero Canyon and Car- mel Hill to Monterey, and thence to Del Monte. The Scenic Boulevard diffeis from the Seventeen-Mile Drive in that it is farther inland, winding through the forests and along the heights of the peninsula. From Pacific Grove it passes near little Lake Majeila and continues along the hills, presenting sweepmg views over the Pacific Ocean, Car- mel Bay and the Bay of Monterey. The highest elevation on the route is 870 feet above sea-level. There are many delightful side trips from Monterey, in- cluding rides by electric car to Seaside, Del Monte and Pacific Grove. By stage are reached Carmel and the coast to the south. (See next page.) 109 CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA lies across the peninsula from Monterey, on the picturesque curve of Carmel bay. (Pine Inn, A. P. $2 and $?>.) It is connected with the city by an auto- mobile and stape road running across the neck of the penin- sula. This little settlement is known widely as a literary cen- ter; many writers, artists and scientists have their permanent or summer homes here. The Forest Theater, formally in- augurated in ] 910, occupies an ideal situation on the hillside overlooking Carmel Valley and the Mission. Here are pro- duced pageants and plays of high artistic merit, both classical and by California authors. Along the beach of white sand which fronts the bay is ex- cellent bathing, and there is a bath-house as well. Other fa- cilities for enjoyment are the public tennis courts and the bowling alleys. The permanent population of Carmel is 400, but the summer population is over 1,000. There are a public library and a town hall. A point of interest near Carmel is the Carnegie Botanical Institute, one of the leading establish- ments of its kind in the country. TTie Carmel Mission (San Carlos Borromeo del Carmelo de Monterey) is situated in the Carmel Valley at the foot of the town. This was the second mission established in California, being founded by Padre Junipero Serra. The first site of the mission was at Monterey, where it was established June 3, 1770. In 1771, Father Serra removed the site to the present location, because of the lack of water and fertile soil at Monte- rey. The place was called Del Carmelo from the name of the river nearby; Vizcaino named the stream in honor of the Car- melite priests who accompanied his expedition in 1602. Father Serra died in 1784 and his remains lie buried In the mission. The present building was begun in 1793 and dedicated in 1797. San Carlos del Carmelo was one of the most wealthy of all the missions, as indeed befitted the establishment where la- bored Father Serra and his beloved companion. Father Crespi. The mission is distinctive among the Franciscan establish- ments in its architecture; the single massive tower and the shape of the dome are unique. Carmel Mission departs also from the usual white color of the mission structures; it is built largely of a soft straw-colored stone, which was quar- ried nearby. The roof was originaHy of red tiles, but in the restoration shingles have taken their place. T'he mission was restored mainly through the efforts of Rev, Angelo Cassanova, pastor of Monterey, who commenced the work in 1882. Serv- ices are held in the mission once a month; on these occasions the bells in the tower are rung. 110 A stage road runs southward from Carmel along the coast, past Point Lobos, with its grove of Monterey cypress, and Yankee Point, to Point Sur, twenty-one miles from Monterey. Here is located one of the largest light-houses in the world. Inhere is excellent trout fishing with deer hunting in the moun- tains. Pico Blanco peak (3,600 feet) east of Point Sur, is the highest eminence in this region. Four miles from the light, on the Little Sur River, is Id^ewild Hotel. A mile from the hotel and two miles from the ocean are hot mineral springs, on the north fork of the Little Sur. On the ocean near here are Slate's Hot Springs. There are 25 mineral springs (sul- phur, salt and iron) with a temperature ranging from 110 to 160 degrees. The springs are so near the ocean that sea bath- ing can he delightfully combined with the warm mineral baths. The coast scenery about the mouths of the Big Sur and Little Sur Rivers is particularly fine. ( a ) Gilroy to Tres Pinos From Gilroy the Tres Pinos branch of the Southern Pacific enters SAN BENITO COUNTY. The county, with an area of 1,392 square miles, had a population of 8,041 in 1910: in 1900 the population was 6,633. This region received its name from the San Benito River (originally called the San Benedicto) which runs almost the whole length of the county. The val- leys of San Benito, San Juan, Santa Ana and Tres Pinos are fertile and prosperous farming and fiuit-grovving regions. Half of the quicksilver found in California comes from San Benito County. The great New Idria mine in the southeastern part of the county is one of the most noted in the world. It has been worked since 1853 and has produced millions of dollars. Its output is still very large. HOLLISTER. county seat and principal town of San Benito County, is situated in the heart of the San Benito Valley, a continuation of Santa Clara Valley. The population in 1910 was 2,30'8, but is rapidly increasing. In J900 it was 1,315. TTie town has fine high school and grammar school buildings and a new library. The hay warehouses at Hollister are the largest in the world. The tcfwn is the center of the apricot orchard region. (Hotel Hollister, A. P. $2.50; Hotel Hartmann. A. P. $2.50; Western Hotel, $1.50.) TRES PINOS (Three Pines) is in the San Benito Valley, six miles south of Hollister, at the terminus of the Southern Pacific branch railroad of that name. It is the center of a great hay and grain region. In August, 1873, the band of out- laws under Vasquez, the most notorious bandit of California Ill after Joaquin Muricta, made a raid on Tres Pinos. They ter- rorized the town, killed several people and gained much booty. Vasquez and several of his band were ^subsequently hanged for this act. (b) Sargent to San Juan Bautista From Sargent is reached by stage the old Mission of San Juan Bautista, one of the best preserved of all the Franciscan establishments in California. The quaint little town of San Juan and Fremont's Peak, where the American flag was first raised in the state are other points of interest on this side trip. From Sargent ihe road leads south, traversing a fertile orchard and grain-growing country. The valley of the San Juan is one of the most beautiful in the state. SAN JUAN, six miles from Sargent, one of the oldest towns of California, once had a population of 2,000, but it has steadily declined, so that in 1910 the population was only 326; in 1900 it was 449. The plaza is the center of the scattered community. On one side are the mission buildings; on an- other the old hotel and the historic Castro house. On this plaza the American flag was raised by Captain Fremont, July ]8, 1846, The Castro house was the home of a rich Spanish family prominent in the early history of CaMfornia. The most celebrated was General Jose Castro, commandant of the Cal- ifornia forces, who made it his headquarters. The house, which is in good repair, is a plain two-story building, with overhanging balcony along the front. The walls are three feet thick and the roof is of tiles. The garden is filled with a luxurious growth of plants and flowers. It is said, on uncer- tain authority, that General FVemont stayed a while at this house, though he and Castro were later arrayed in the field against each other. Next to the Castro house is the old hotel, a long, plain building with a balcony along it, erected about 100 years ago. Mission San Juan Bautista, on the plaza, founded in 1797, is one of the best preserved in Califcirnia and is still in use as a parish church. The church, begun in ISOo and dedicated in 1812, is a large building with thick adobe walls supported by massive buttresses on either Ride, some of them in ruins. The walls and ceiling are whitewashed. There is a choir-loft over the entrance. The baptismal font, standing three feet high, is of carved sandstone. The main altar, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, is brilliantly decorated in red, green and gold. There are a life-size figure of St. John and four smaller ones, all well executed. These figures are carved from redwood, 112 which proves that the work was done in California, possibly by the Indian converts. There are many interesting relics here, including old music and musical instruments, the organ brought from England in 1797, paintings and the vestments and robes of the early mission days. In the chancel, marked by a stone slab, is the grave of Esteban Tapis, one of the early presidents of the California missions, who labored here in his later years and died in 1825. There are two bells in the belfry. One is the last of a chime of nine bells, which orig- inally were at the mission; the other is one cast in San Fran- cisco, in 1874, from two of the old ones. In the belfry also is the old wooden contrivance used to call the people to church upon days when the Catholic church rings no bells. Next to the church is the long, low, tiled-roofed building, containing the rooms of the resident father. Along the front is the cloistered passage, with square, massive pillars and graceful round arches. In the garden are pear trees, planted over 100 years ago, which are still in bearing. An old sand- stone sun dial stands in the garden. It is 2% feet high. Mission San Juan Bautista was established June 24, 1797, the day dedicated to St. John the Baptist. From 1798 to 1800 it suffered much from the attacks of Indians. In 1823 the pop- ulation of the mission reached its highest figure, 1,248 souls. TTie cemetery (campo santo) is along one side of the church. Here, in the space of about an acre, are buried 4,500 bodies, one grave above another. The view of the country toward the east from the cemetery is very fine. The land slopes away for some distance, until it reaches the foothills of the Mount Diablo Range. From San Juan may be ascended Fremont's Peak, the highest of the Gabilan mountains. This range runs southwest, forming the boundary between San Benito and Monterey counties. The name is a corruption of Spanish "gavilan," meaning "hawk." There is an excellent road to the top of the mountain, and the place is well worth visiting, because of its scenery and historical associations. The peak was as- cended by Captain John C. Fremont and his American troops (March 4, 1846), and the mountain top was fortified in defi- ance of the Mexican authorities. Tlie American flag was raised then for the first time on California soil, though without proper authority. Fremont remained encamped at this spot for three days, and then retreated toward the north, as he had only sixty men and was greatly outnumbered by the Califor- nians under Castro. Remains of the breastworks, overgrown with weeds, and the stump of the tree on which the flag was 113 raised can yet be seen. An iron flagstaff was erected here in 190S in commemoration of Fremont's exploit. Tlie Amer- ican flag was then raised by Lieutenant John C. Fremont of the navy, a grandson of "the Pathfinder." The view from Fremont's Pealv is superb — to the south the Salinas Valley, on the west Monterey Bay and Pajaro Valley, to the north the San Juan Valley, and beyond a range of hills the Santa Clara Valley, the view extending to Mount Hamilton, 50' miles away. The eastern view is of the valley of the San Benito, with glimpses of the great San Joaquin Valley through different passes. 6. Monterey to San Luis Obispo From Monterey the traveler reaches Castroville, on the main line of the Southern Pacific. From Castroville the route runs up the Salinas Valley. This great valley is 100 miles long and has an average width of 10 miles. Tlie Salinas River flows the entire length. The valley is a fertile farming and fruit-raising district, being especially noted for the famous SaUnas Burbank potatoes. T'he Salinas is the largest valley in the Coast Range. The health-giving winds that sweep up the trough of the valley every day from Monterey Bay are a remarkable feature of this region. The railroad extends from Castroville southeast thi-ough Cooper (3) to Salinas (4). SALINAS; the county seat, is a city of about 5,000 popula- tion; in 1910 it had 3,738, (Abbott House, A. P. $2.50 up, E. P. $1 up; Oriental Hotel, A. P. $2.50 up.) It has considerable manufactures and the surrounding country is well developed agriculturally. The city has two pretty parks, a public library and other attractive public buildings. Every July there is held in Salinas the "Big Week," a carnival in which the departing days of the Wild West are revived. The wooded mountains to the west are the Santa Lucia Range, while those to the east of the valley are the Gabilan Range. From Salinas a stage road runs to Tassajara Hot Springs, situated in the rugged coast hills at the headwaters of the Carmel River. There are more than twenty springs, some on the rocky hillsides and some bubbling up with a tempera- ture of 160 degrees in Arroyo Seco. TTiey contain sulphur, sodium, magnesia, iron, phosphates and other minerals. From Salinas another road runs northeast through Santa Rita and by the San Juan grade to the old Mission San Juan Bautista 114 (16), in San Benito County (see above). The route is made longer, but easier, by taking the road by way of Dumbarton. South of the road beyond Dumbarton are some picturesque rock formations. Three miles south of Salinas is the town of SPRECKELS, the center of the beet-sugar industry. The Spreckels beet- sugar refinery here is one of the largest in the worl.d. The pro- cess of manufacture is wonderful, seldom, failing to interest visitors. Monterey County is one of the most important beet- sugar producing regions of the state. Spreckels is reached by the Pajaro Valley Consolidated Railroad, branches of the same system running from Salinas to the nearby towns of Alisal and Buena Vista. From Salinas the route extends through Spence (5) to Chular (4). This town, with a population of 150, is the center of an extensive grain and dairying region. From here the line runs through to Gonzales, a growing town of 500. one of the largest dairy centers of the county. From. Gonzales the route continues through Camphora (6) to Soledad (2^^). SOLEDAD one of the old mission towns, has a population of 400. It is the trading center for a large region devoted mainly to dairy- ing and beet culture. La Soledad Mission, properly Mission de Nuestra Senora de Soledad (Mission of Our Lady of Solitude), situated in a field four miles west of the town, is a heap of ruins. A few crumbling walls alone mark the spot where a flourishing mission settlement once stood. Nearby can be seen the re- mains of a vineyard, planted by the padres, one of the oldest in California. This lonely place was named Soledad (Solitude) by Governor Portola in 1769, and on October 9, 1791, a mission was founded here by Father Lasuen. TTie adobe chapel was completed in 1797. Near the ruins of the mission, five miles from Soledad, are the Paraiso Hot Springs. (Paraiso Springs Hotel, $2 to $2.50.) In 1791 twenty acres of land, containing these springs, were granted to the padres, who gave it the name of Eternal Para- dise. The place is now a popular resort. The soda, sulphur and iron springs lie at an elevation of 1400 in a canyon of the Joothills, Another point of interest reached from Soledad is the na- tional monument knoM'n as Vancouver's Pinnacles. These strange geological formations are situated on the eastern bor- der of Monterey County. The mountains here are of volcanic origin and have been cleft into fantastic domes and turrets. 115 The walls of many of the pinnacles are 50G' feet high. This picturesque region embraces about ten square miles; the na- tional monument contains 2,080 acres. Vancouver, the famous navigator, while exploring this region in behalf of the British government, discovered this remarkable range of granite and basalt hills. West of Soledad is Fort Romie, one of the three farm colonies conducted by the Salvation Army in America. Another flourishing town in the vicinity is Greenfield. Alfalfa is the principal i)roduct of this region, though there are large seed farms near Greenfield, Tlie main route continues from Soledad along the Salinas through Riverbank (4), Metz (4i^) and Coburn (61/2) to KING CITY (5). This is a rapidly growing place of 1,200 inhab- itants. It is the chief trading point of the southern Salinas valley. The surrounding country produces much fruit and grain, as well as cattle. Near King City is a large gypsum mine. From King City a delightful stage and automobile trip is across the mountains to Jolon and the Mission San Antonio de Padua (described in detail in Section a under this route). From King City the Southern Pacific Coast Line continues southeast through Welby (3i/^) to San Lucas (5). This town is the center of a large grain and general farming district. There are also considerable grazing ranges around San Lucas. From San Lucas the line continues through Upland (5) to San Ardo (5^^). San Ardo is the distributing center for a rich part of the SaUnas Valley. The river is here spanned by a modern steel and concrete bridge. From this place the route leads through Wunpost (6^A) to Bradley (QV2). This town is the center of a rich tributary country, including Hames and Indian Valleys. At this point the San Antonio River joins the Salinas. Nacimiento, on the river of the same name, lies on this line 5i/^ miles south of Bradley. Near here the Salinas River is crossed and about two miles south the route enters San Luis Obispo county. SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY has an area of 3,334 square miles. TTie population in 1910 was 19,383; in 1900 it was 16,637. The agricultural products include fruits and grain and dairy farms are numerous. After crossing the county line the station of Chans^or is soon reached. From this point the Stone Canyon Railroad runs northeast to the Stone Canyon Coal Mines, which embrace an area of 2,500 acres. This is de- clared to be one of the largest coal deposits in the west. South of Chanslor is the old mission town of San Miguel, on the Salinas River. The mission, founded in 1797, is in excellent 116 preservation and should be visited. The town is in the midst of a rich stock and grain country. Mission San Miguel is but a short way from the railroad station. The chapel is still in use and there is a resident pastor. The interior decorations are especially interesting. The mission buildings consist of the church and a long row of low buildings. Tlie corridor of the building and the church are unusual because of the varying size and shape of the arches. Inside the church may be seen the original decora- lions and ornaments made by the Indians. The white board ceiling rests on massive beams. The walls are frescoed in blue and red-brown. The altar is high, is artistically embel- lished and crowned by a statue oi St. Michael, the archangel, patron saint of the mission. The rude pulpit is painted in strange blendings of dark green, dull blue and purple. All this decorative work was executed by the Indians, Mission San Miguel was founded by Father Lasuen, assisted by Father Buenaventura Sitjar, July 25, 1797. The present chapel was built in 1800. Despite the first hostility of the Indians and a destructive fire, the mission became prosperous. The largest number of neophytes was in 1814, when there were 1,076. Water for the mission was brought from the Santa Ysabel Springs by a ten-mile conduit. An adobe wall 15 feet high and four miles long enclosed the buildings. From San Miguel a road leads southeast along the Estrella River to the farming communities of Estrella and Bern, The main route leads south to Wellsona (4) and thence to Paso Robles (5) and the Paso Robles Hot Springs. PASO ROBLES (Paso Robles Hot Springs Hotel, A. P. $3 up), the second city of San Luis Obispo County, lies east of the Santa Lucia Range on the Salinas River, The population in 1910 was 1,441, in 1900 it was 1,224. The rolling country around the city is dotted with oaks, which give it its Spanish name, which signifies "The Pass of the Oaks." The great hot sulphur springs are among the most famous in the world. There is here a great tourist hotel and sumptuous bath-house which is not excelled by any establishment in Europe. The springs include sulphur, iron, mineral, soda, lithia, mud and sand springs. The water is excellent for both external and in- tenal uses. The Indians are said to have brought their sick even from as far as Texas in order to make them well in these curative waters. The great bath-house (Kurhaus) is directly over the main sulphur spring, which has a flow of ap- proximately 2,000,000 gallons a day. The temperature of this spring is 107 degrees. The Municipal Bath-house, owned by the city of Paso Robles, situated near the park, is attractive 117 and is operated at popular prices. The elevation here is 720 feet above sea-level, about that of Carlsbad, Baden-Baden or Kissingen. Paso Robles is the center of a beautiful region, much of it rich farming, grazing and fruit land. There are many de- lightful trips and walks to be taken, into the surrounding country. By all means, Santa Ysabel Springs, situated on the ranch of that name, three miles south of Paso Robles, should be visited. Here there is a real wonder, a lake of sparkling, hot mineral water under the oaks, where one may go boating or swimming. The ranch itself is one of the model dairy ranches of the state. Roads diverge from Paso Robles in several directions. One of these runs northeast through Union and Shandon to Cho- lame, in a farmJng and grazing region. Another road leads southeast through Lynne to Creston, in a thrifty agricultural district. To the west lies another road; this reaches Adelaide and Las Tablas Colony of Mennonites, in a diversified agricul- tural area. From Adelaide a road leads north to Gibbons and thence into Monterey County. Another runs west to San Simeon, on the coast, passing through Cambria, a dairy and mining center, at the head of the Santa Rosa Valley. Six miles from San Simeon is Piedras Blancas Point light-house. From Cambria a road leads along the coast to Cayucos, a shipping point for a prosperous dairy and farming back- country. From Cayucos the road continues to Morro, a sea- side resort, where there are surf-bathing and boating. The bay is rather a narrow, land-locked lagoon. Opposite rises lonely Morro Rock, a precipitous island, standing 573 feet above the sea at high tide. It is the haunt of seal and thousands of sea fowl. From Morro the road leads along the sea coast to San Luis Obispo (12). The Southern Pacific Coast Line and main county road from Paso Robles traverses the Salinas Valley. TEMPLETON (6) pleasantly situated on a slight elevation overlooking the river, is in a beautiful and fertile region, now mainly takeu up with dairy farms. Templeton is one of the four great military camps of the United States go/ernment used for maneuver grounds. Since 1904, ac the Atascadero Rancho of 23,000 acres, three miles from Templeton, regular soldiers and militia of tHe Department of the Pacific have gathered for the annual Fchool of instruction. The maneuvers continue from, two to four weeks, including sham batt'es and rifle practice. 118 From Templeton the main route leads through Asuncion (3) and Atascadero (3) and Eaglet (2) to SANTA MARGAR- ITA (5). This town, at the head of the Salinas Valley, is a commercial point of considerable importance. Near here are the remains of the old stores erected by the padres of the Mission of San Luis Obispo. From this town a road leads east to Pozo and La Panza, across the San .Juan river to Simm- ler. South of these places lies the Carisa plain, a plateau of about 1,400 feet elevation, with no drainage outlet. In the midst of the plain is a huge sandstone rock or hill, having a great chamber in its center 120 feet long and 225 feet wide. This chamber is open to the sky and the walls are covered with Indian paintings in colors. This is one of the most inter- esting remains of the aborigines in California. There are sev- eral dry lake beds on the Carisa plain. From Santa Margarita the road crosses the Santa Lucia Mountains by way of the Cuesta Pass. The Santa Lucia Mountains were so named by the navigator Vizcaino, Decem- ber 14, 1602. In this part of the range the band of Joaquin Murieta had its stronghold in 1852, and here was fought a pitched battle between his men and the Americans, in which twenty men were killed on each side, the Americans refilling. At Cuesta (3i/^), the road becomes steep, approximating a 15 per cent grade, and the Summit, 1570 feet, is reached be- tween Cuesta and Serrano. From Serrano (4i/^) the railroad comes down into the valley by means of a great horse-shoe curve, which presents many fine views; the track to be cov- ered ahead often comes in sight from the windows of the car. From Serrano the route runs through Goldtree (4) to the city of San Luis Obispo (SVi^). SAN LUIS OBISPO, the county seat, is a growing com- munity of about 6,000. The population in 1910 was 5,157; in 1900 it was 3,021. Tlie city is beautifully situated at the base of the Santa Lucia Mountains, 9 miles from the ocean. The pyramidal mountains in the vicinity are remarkable forma- tions. Two that are close together and strangely cleft suggest a bishop's miter, and this fact is said to have influenced the padres to give the city its name, San lAiis Obispo de Tolosa (St. Louis, Bishop of Toulouse). The ])ublic buildings include the Free Library, the stone high school and other school struc- tures, and the county buildings. Near the court house are to be seen overgrown earthworks, erected by order of General Fremont in 1846. The Polytechnic School af San Luis Obispo is a state institution for the free teaching of industries and is one of the few schools of the kind on the Pacific Coast. The main buildings are attractive adaptations of the mission style 119 of architecture. (Hotel St, James, K. P. 50 cents, 75 cents and $1; Andrews Hotel, A. P. $3 up.) Mission San Luis Obispo, situated in the city, is interest- ing. The remains of the old church are protected by a modern arched ceiling and roof; a modern bell-tower has been added. An old statue of the patron Saint Louis, the Bishop of Tou- louse, wearing the miter, stands above the altar. Among the Ireasures of the mission are the cope and stole of Father Junipero Serra and the old cross used at the first mass. The mission was founded September 1, 1772, by Fathers Serra and Cavalier, the fifth mission in Alta California. The Indians for some time were hostile and burned many of the buiMings. The church was finished in 1793. The build- ings also included barracks, granary, guard-house, workshops and the like. There are many delightful walks and drives around San Luis Obispo. One is the seven-mile trip up Reservoir Canyon to the northeast of the town. The canyon is situated between two high ridges of hills. Those on the east are the highest, the three main peaks coming into sight being Lopez Mountain (2,860), Gay Mountain (2,850) and Piney Ridge (2,845). An- other pleasure trip is to Oak Park and Arroyo Grande. Morro, with its bay and rock (see above), is 12 miles from the city and should be visited by the lover of the sea-shore. El Pizmo beach, to the south, on the main line of the Southern Pacific, is another place of interest to nature lovers, to be noted later. The trip to the port of San Luis can be made by the county road or the line of the Pacific Coast Railroad. The route runs through Miles (^¥2) to San Luis Obispo Hot Sulphur Springs (1/^). These sulphur springs are situated a short distance from the San Luis Creek in a beautiful sycamore grove. Over 3 00,000 gallons of mineral water run from the springs every day. Popular amusements here are boating and fishing in the creek. From the springs the line runs to Avila (1) where there is a pleasant beach. A large modern public wharf has been constructed here by the county of San Luis Obispo. From Avila the line leads (2) to PORT SAN LUIS. This port ranks high in the aggregate tonnage. Port San Luis is the terminus of several large pipe lines from the great oil fields of Kern and Santa Barbara Counties, making this one of the greatest oil-shipping ports in the world. The national government has improved the harbor by the construction of a breakwater. This is the most sheltered port on San Luis Obispo Bay. The bay was discovered in 1542 by Cabrillo, the great Spanish navigator, who called it Todos Santos (All Saints) Bay. 120 The region about Port San Luis is notable for the arched rocks and other strange formations on the coast. Fisherman's Rock is probably most noted, the arch being almost perfectly rounded ; nearby, too, are the Overhanging Rock and numerous sea caves. Near Port San Luis are ocean terraces, pro- nounced by scientists to be remarkable, showing the manner in which this part of the coast has been raised; the lowest terrace is ten feet above high tide, the middle one 60 feet, and the upper one 100 feet. An attractive side trip from San Luis Obispo is to Los Olivos and Mission Santa Ynez, by tiie line of the Pacific Coast Railroad. T'his is described at length in Section b under this route: San Luis Obispo to Los Olivos. (a) King City to Mission San Antonio From King City a road, part of El Caniino Real, runs across the mountains to .Jolon (17i/^), and further on is the old Mis- sion San Antonio de Padua (6). The route is an attractive one bordered by grain fields and cattle ranges. The Jolon grade is rather rough, but the rest of the road is good. The summit of the pass is 1,500 feet above sea level. Jolon (pro- nounced Holon) has a population of 250 and is the chief town of the valley of the same nam_e. Other towns of this farming region are Lockwood and Pleyto. Mission San Antonio de Padua, situated six miles from Jo- lon, was the third founded by the Franciscans in California. This vast ruin stands alone on the banks of Mission Creek, a small stream flowing into San Antonio River. The beautiful rolling country about is studded with oaks, which caused Fa- ther Serra to call the valley Los Robles (The Oaks). Behind the mission in the distance rises Santa Lucia Peak, 6.967 feet in altitude, the highest point in the Coast Range. The situa- tion of San Antonio is regarded by many as the most beautiful of all the mission sites. The mission was founded July 14, 1771, by Father Junipero Serra. It is told that when the father and his companions ar- rived in this spot, he had bells hung upon the branch of a tree and began to strike them. When asked by a missionary why he did this when there was not a single one in that region who knew the meaning of the ringing bells, he replied "Let me, father, relieve my heart, wishing that this beU might be heard bj'^ the whole world." An altar was set up and mass celebrat- ed, a single native, attracted by the beHs, being present. The tree may still be seen on the road to the mission. The first mission settlement was on the San Antonio River, but in 1774 it was moved three miles away on Mission Creek. 121 The present ruins are those of the second church, commenced in 1809 or 1810. The mission grew rapidly and became. noted lor its prosperity. In 1798 there were 1,076 neophytes enrolled at the mission, the largest in California at the time. The In- dians here had a legend of priests who had come to them 5'ears before and brought them their religion. These are be- lieved to have been Spanish missionaries from New Mexico about 1631. In 1805 the population of the mission was 1296. Long after the secularization of the missions (1832) the In- dians lived here, but they finally deserted the mission on the death of Father Ambrose in 1882. For many years the roofless adobe walls of San Antonio were exposed to the elements, but the roof has been restored by the California Historic Landmarks League preventing fur- ther destruction. The facade of the chapel is to the east and is faced with burnt brick, and above may be seen openings where the mission bells once swung. The walls are very sub- stantially built, being six feet thick. Architecturally, San An- tonio was one of the most imposing of the missions. Adjoin- ing the church is a long cloistered bulging, with rows of pillars and arches. The interior decorations of the mission disappeared long ago. In front of the church is an old olive tree planted by the padres in the early years of the mission. (b) San Luis Obispo to Los Olivos The line of the Pacific Coast Railroad runs from San Luis Obispo southeast into Santa Barbara County, reaching Los Olivos, whence the old Mission Santa Ynez is easily accessible. This is a delightful side trip from San Luis Obispo, traversing a fruitful and picturesque region. The excellent automobile road follows the same general course as the railroad. After passing Edna (6), where there are large asphalt re- finery plants, the traveler reaches Arroyo Grande (4%), the center of the flower-seed industry of the county. The little valley is literally one great garden of flowers. The population is about 1,000. About one mile east of Arroyo Grande are the Newsom White Sulphur Springs. Roads run to the neighbor- ing towns of Musick and Huasna. From Arroyo Grande the route leads through a prosperous agricultural region, passing Los Berros (4i/^), Summit (2), Nipomo (3), and into Oso Flaco Valley. This valley received its name (meaning "Lean Bear'') from the Spanish soldiers of Portola in 1769, because they killed here a hungry-looking bear; but there is nothing lean about the crops raised here in modern days. The route crosses the Santa Maria River into 122 Santa Barbara County, reaching the city of SANTA MARIA (7). In 1910 the population was 2,260. It is one of the large oil centers of the state, and the agricultural resources of the surrounding country add to its prosperity. Barley, beans, oats and poultry form sources of revenue. The oil fields are in the hills on the southern side of the valley; Santa Maria has an output of 7,500,000 barrels of petroleum annually. There are also productive natural gas wells here. (Hotel Bradley, $1.50 to $2.50.) A branch line of the railway from Santa Maria follows the course of the Sisquoc River southeastward, running through Suey (5) and Garey (6) to Sisquoc (3). Farther up the river is rugged scenery, with the Cuyamas Range to the north and the San Rafael Range to the south. An electric line runs from Santa Maria west to Guadalupe (10) on the Southern Pacific Coast line. The main route from Santa . Maria extends southeast through Union (2) to Lake View (2) and Orcutt (2), in a rich agricultural territory. From Orcutt the line runs to Los Alamos (14), in the valley of the same name, which is devoted largely to the growing of grain. Beyond here, after passing Wigmore (4) is reached LOS OLIVOS (8), the terminus of the railroad. From Los Olivos an excellent stage road, a favorite road for autoists, runs to SANTA YNEZ MISSION (4). The mis- sion stands in a beautiful spot to the east of the road and north of the Santa Ynez River. The building is long and low, made of adobe lined with burnt brick and surmounted by tiles. The mission is fronted by an arched colonnade. At one end is the chapel, with the bells swung in niches in the arcade, similar to the arrangement at San Gabriel. The interior is plain, paved with large square bricks; the ceiling is supported by massive carved beams. The mission was founded Septem- ber 17, 180'4, and dedicated to St. Agnes (Santa Ynez). The present structure was begun in 1812. The Indian revolt of 1824 started at Santa Ynez and many of the buildings were de- stroyed. The mission continued as a religious establishment until 1850, when it was abandoned. To the northeast of the mission is the town of Santa Ynez. Near Los Olivos are several points of scenic interest. To the northeast about ten miles is pretty little Zaca Lake, with mountain peaks on all sides. On the south rise Lookout Mountain (3,490) and Zaca Peak (4,333 feet). Near Los Olivos also is the Rancho del Alamo Pintado, an attractive mountain resort. From Santa Ynez the coast can be reached by any one of three passes, Gaviota, Refugio or San Marcos, all notable for their wild grandeur. 7. San Luis Obispo to Santa Barbara This is one of the most remarkable scenic routes in the world, running as it does for most of the distance along the edge of the Pacific Ocean. From San Luis Obispo the Coast Line of the Southern Pa- cific continues southeast through Edna to EL PIZMO (12), on the Pacific Ocean. El Pizmo Beach, 17 miles long and several hundred feet wide, is of firm sand. The beach is excellent for surf-bathing, and an automobile can be driven over it the whole distance. There are several strange formations at Pizmo Beach, including the interesting Arch Rock. The route extends to Oceano (2), at the entrance of the Arroyo Grande Valley. Here there are acres of seed farms, especially fragrant sweetpeas, a beautiful sight in bloom. The fragrance of the blossoms is wafted for miles. From Oceano the line passes through Callendar (4) and Bromela (25^) to Santa Maria River, the boundary between San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara Counties. After crossing the Santa Maria River, the Coast Line of the Southern Pacific reaches Guadalupe (3i^) in SANTA BAR- BARA COUNTY. This county has the shape of a parallelogram, with 100 miles of seacoast; 60 miles of this, from Point Con- cepcion eastward, has a southern exposure, which accounts for the fame of Santa Barbara as another Riviera. The area of the county is 2,740 square miles; the population 1910 was 27,738. The Santa Ynez range divides the county, the terri- tory to the south being most populous. Tlie agricultural re- sources of this region are great; it is devoted mainly to the culture of walnuts, olives, lemons and beans. The northern part of the county contains four large valleys — the Lompoc, Santa Ynez, Los Alamos and Santa Maria. The latter is one of the largest in Southern California. In the hills on the south side of this valley are extensive oil fields, as at Summer- land, below the city of Santa Barbara. For the tourist, Santa Barbara County, with its wonderful climate, its beaches and mountains, its three old Franciscan missions and other varied attractions, is of unusual interest. Guadalupe is a shipping point for the Santa Maria Valley. The town is situated about six miles from the ocean; along this part of the coast, as at Mussel Rock, the ocean has carved interesting grottoes, arches and caves in the limestone cliffs. The line of the Pacific Coast Electric Railroad connects with the Southern Pacific, running east through Betteravia (5), where is situated a large beet-sugar refinery, to Santa Maria (5), whence the Pacific Coast Railroad (narrow-gauge) leads 124 southeast to Los Olivos, near Santa Ynez and its old mission. (See Route 6 b.) From Guadalupe the Coast Line of the Southern Pacific runs through Casmalia (11), Tangair (10), across the Santa Ynez River, near its mouth, to Surf (5%). This is a town situated on a rock-bound coast, where the waves break into spray. The railroad runs along the very edge of the ocean. A branch line of the Southern Pacific runs from here southeast to LOMPOC (10). Of particular interest in the Lompoc re- gion are the seed farms, and in bloom the acres of sweetpeas and other flowers present a beautiful sight. A profitable in- dustry of the valley, the only one of its kind in the United States, is the raising of mustard for market. The town of Lompoc is beautifully situated on the southern bank of the little Santa Ynez River; hills lie all around, except on the west, where the land slopes to the ocean. Founded in 1874 as a temperance colony, the town has now a population of 1,800 and is growing. (Hotel Arthur, A. P. $2.) T*he remains of two missions are near Lompoc. Old Puris- ima, founded December 8, 1787, by Father Lasuen, is a pile of ruins beyond redemption, situated on a slight eminence about V2 mile south from the center of the town. Only a few walls remain. It was destroyed by an earthquake, December 12, 1812. The site of the mission, La Purisima Conception, was then moved five miles farther down the river on the op- posite bank. The first structure here was destroyed by the Indians in the revolt of 1824. The mission whose ruins now remain, was begun in 1825. Portions of the new Puris- ima which stand show the substantial character of the build- ing; the adobe walls are from four to five feet thick; the roof is of red tile. The mission Is unique in the absence of the arches which marked most of the Franciscan structures. In- stead, square pillars support the veranda along the front. The mission building Is long and low, containing 21 rooms; the church takes about half the space. While the mission cannot be said to be among the most characteristic, its situation, with its back to the hills, is picturesque. At the end of its cor- ridor a fine view of the valley, with the ocean in the distance, is obtained. The Santa Ynez mission (see Route 6b), further up the valley, may be reached from Lompoc by a picturesque route (24 miles). TTie road is excellent for automobiles. From Surf the Coast Line of the Southern Pacific continues for 100 miles along the coast., on cliffs 50 to 200 feet above the waves, descending now and then to the beaches; landward rise the Santa Ynez Mountains. This is one of the most re- markable coast routes in the world. The line continues past 125 Point Argiiello and its ligbthouse through Sudden (15) to Con- cepcion (8), at the head of the Santa Barbara Channel. The lighthouse at Point Concepcion is on the shelf of a surf-beaten cliff, which rises 220 feet above the sea. The land behind is much lower and from the ocean the cliff seems to be an island. The point was discovered by CabriUo in 1542. Point Concep- cion is of great importance in the geography of California; it marks a decided change in direction of both the coast and the mountain range. From here a continuous mountain range extends easterly far into the deserts of the south. The route from Concepcion runs eastward through Drake (9) to Gaviota (5). From here a stage road and auto route run to Los Olivos and the Santa Ynez mission by way of a beautiful gorge, Gaviota Pass. The mission can also be reached by the Pacific Coast Railroad from San Luis Obispo or from Lompoc (see above). T'he grade is rather steep, but the scenery is well worth the climb. At the head of the Gav- iota Canyon, tortuous and high-walled, is the village of Las Cruces, 4 miles north of Gaviota. From here there are pleas- ant walking trips into the mountains. About % of a mile to the southeast are Las Cruces Sulphur Springs, in a grove of oaks and sycamores. Five miles to the northeast, among roll- ing hills, are the beautiful Nojoqui Falls (pronounced No-ho- quee), where the little creek plunges over a precipice, a sheer drop of over one hundred feet. These falls can also be reached from Gaviota Pass by means of a rough road running to the north. Beyond Las Cruces the main road ascends to Gaviota Pass, whose summit is 1,00'0 feet above sea level. To the south is Gaviota Peak (2,451 feet). The road descends from the summit, across the Santa Ynez River and past the Mission Santa Ynez to Los Olivos (see route 6 b), 17 miles from Las Cruces, The coast route from Gaviota continues eastward through Tajiguas (6) and Naples (10) to Elwood (4). Here are large groves of eucalyptus (the oldest in Southern California) and many acres planted in olives. Tlie mountains north of this portion of the route are the loftiest in this part of the Coast Range. Santa Ynez Peak is 4,292 feet above sea level and to the east rise Condor Point (3,000 feet), and Brush Peak (3,059 feet). From Elwood the traveler reaches Goleta (4), whence the road crosses the mountains by the grand San Marcos Pass. The summit is 2,224 feet above sea-level; to the east towers Brush Peak and to the west the mountains rise even higher. On the eastern side of the pass is the Painted Cave, reached from the main road by a narrow wagon road. The interior of the cavern is covered with rude painted figures and hieroglyph- 126 ics, undoubtedly the work of Indians. From the summit of the pass the road runs into the Santa Ynez Valley, reaching Los Olivos. From Goleta the main route continues to Santa Barbara. SANTA BARBARA is especially noted for its equable cli- mate and its well-preserved Franciscan mission. The census of 1910 gave a population of 11,659; in 1900 it was 6,587. The city faces the beautiful Santa Barbara Channel and is situated on a gentle slope at the base of the foothills of the Santa Ynez mountains. The first Spanish settlement here was in 1782, when Ortega, with Father Serra. founded the Presidio. The city was laid out in blocks in 1851. It is gaining commercial importance, besides being widely known as a summer and win- ter resort. Santa Barbara has an excellent system of paved streets, boulevards and suburban drives, parks, pleasure grounds and athletic fields. The beach is broad and clean; bathing is safe here because there is no undertow. A palm-lined boulevard fronts the ocean. At one end are well-equipped bath-houses and a pleasure-pier near the beautiful Plaza Del Mar. TTie grounds of the Arlington and Potter Hotels are elaborately parked. The Potter Hotel faces the sea and the Plaza Del Mar. In the groimds of the Arlington Hotel may be seen ancient palm trees planted in the early mission days, as well as an old rose tree with a trunk 14 inches in diameter. The city is noted for the diversity of the plant life in its gardens; shrubs and trees from many different countries of the world having been acclimated here. It is estimated that of palms alone there are 150 varieties growing in Santa Barbara. The celebrated Mission of Santa Barbara is situated in the foothills about two miles from the water, on the northern out- skirts of the city (end of Garden-street car line). This is with- out question the best preserved of California missions (it has never been restored) and is one of the most interesting. It is constructed almost entirely of stone, and js surmounted by a roof of tiles. The imposing church building is 140 feet long by 40 feet wide; this is flanked by a long line of low buildings with arched corridors. Before the main building is the large fountain, quaint and artistic in design. The massive walls of the church, 6 feet thick, are strengthened with solid stone but- tresses and within may be seen the heavy cross-beams used in the structure. Santa Barbara is the only one of the mis- sions which has two towers. One of these is the bell-tower, in which hang mellow-toned bells, brought f.Tom Spain, where they were cast in 1818. This belfry may be ascended by visit- ors; from it is a sweeping and delightful view. TTie inner gar- 127 den of the mission is used for the private quarters of the priests and therefore is closed to the public. Women are for- bidden to visit this sacred enclosure; only two women have been accorded this privilege, Mrs. Benjamin Harrison and Princess Louise, Marchiones of Lome. The east garden is a part of the old burying-groiind, where 4,000 bodies are interred, one grave upon another. This area, about an acre in extent, is now covered with roses and rare plants and trees. In the garden fountain abound gleaming goldfish. Near the center of the garden is a large crucifix. The interior of the church is plain, though evidences remain of a frescoed ceiling. The most val- ued treasure of the mission is a piece of the true cross, brought from the Holy Land. There are also preserved here gorgeous robes and vestments used in early mission days. The library contains massive leather-covered books and parch- ments, together with archives and mission records which are of inestimable value to the student of the history of California. TTie tomb of Francisco Garcia Diego, first Bishop of Alta California, is under the floor at the right of the altar, in the nave of the church. The mission was founded on December 4th, 1786, by Father Fermin Francisco de Lasuen. The first permanent chapel was built the following year, but the establishment grew rapidly and the present edifice was begim in 1815. The new church was dedicated on September 10, 1820. Since 1852, a Fran- ciscan college with a novitiate has been established here for the education of young men. The reception hours at the mis- sion are from 8 to 11:30 o'clock and from 1 to 5. The Santa Barbara Public Library, situated at 14 East Carrillo street, and the Court House are points of interest. The iVIuseum of Natural History, at Anacapa and Carrillo street, is open to the public Wednesday and Saturday from 2 to 4. In the heart of the city are many relics of the early days. The ruins of the Casa de Aguirre, built in a quadrangle after the Spanish style of architecture, are of interest. The material for this old building was brought in ships from New York. After serving as a dwelling for years, it was used as a place for political meetings and was later the barracks of the First California Volunteers. Another old residence, the De la Guerra House, is of unusual romantic interest (13 East De la Guerra street). Here lived for some time Concepcion de Arguello, the heroine of Bret Harte's beautiful poem of that name, after the death of her lover, the Russian Rezanoff. This house has offered hospitality to many celebrities, includ- ing Generals Sherman, Fremont and Halleck and Richard Henry Dana, author of "Two Years Before the Mast," who de- 128 scribed in that book the festivities at the De la Guerra house. Much of the furniture and material used in this house were brought from Spain. There are many attractive drives about Santa Barbara which should be seen by the leisurely tourist. Among them, one of the m.ost beautiful, is the Mountain Drive, which makes a circuit back of the foothills; beginning at the old Mission, it extends easterly to Montecito Valley, connecting with Riven Rock road, and thence runs by way of Hot Springs ave- nue to Ocean Drive and Boulevard. This is a popular half- day trip. The Mission Ridge Drive, affording a fine view of the city, connects with the Mountain Drive, The trip up the Mission Canyon, northeast of the city, is through a wooded residence district. The Montecito Drive is a route of unusual scenic interest: the round trip is from 10 to 16 mlies, by way of the Ocean Drive and Sycamore Canyon road. The Cliff Drive trip embraces a tour of 12 miles; the route extends west by way of Hollister avenue. Central avenue and Modoc road, passing Hope Lake and the Potter Country Club; the return is by Cliff Drive and Mesa avenue, passing the light- house and entering the city at the west end of Canon Perdido street. Hollister Avenue is the main county road, leading west through Goleta walnut groves and by the Elwood and Glen Annie ranches; the distance to Elwood is 12 miles. The Tunnel Drive is up Mission Canyon to the new city tunnel, bored through the mountain and furnishing the city's water supply, whence it is four miles by foot trail to Seven Falls. La Cumbre Drive leaves the Mountain Drive at the sign, "La Cumbre Trail," and runs one mile up the grade to El Reposo. The road to San Marcos Pass (14 miles to the summit from Santa Barbara) is by way of the Goleta road, and embraces some of the finest scenery in California; the pass and the Painted Cave nearby have been described above. Other points of interest reached by road from Santa Barbara are San Jose Farm (one mile east of Goleta), Smith's Canyon, where there are beautiful waterfalls (to right of Goleta at Patera, 13 mi^es), San Ysidro Rancho (6 miles), Crocker Rancho (by Ocean Drive, coast road, San Ysidro and Montecito road; re- turn by Sheffield Drive, 8 miles), Shepard's Inn and Stanley Park (17 miles), and Carpinteria (see below). The famous Ojai Valley (described under Route 8 a) may be reached from Santa Barbara by the picturesque Casitas Pass. There are also many horseback trails about Santa Barbara which reach places inaccessible to automobile travel. One of the finest of these is La Cumbre Trail, reaching La Cumbre Peak (3,985 feet). By way of the Mountain Drive and La 129 Roca Grande this trip is 12 miles; by way of Los Canoas Can- yon it is 10 miles. The Tunnel Trail to La Cumbre (8 miles) and to Santa Ynez river (JO miles) is another horseback trip. The Moore Trail connects Mission Canyon with San Roque Canyon (3 miles). San Roque Trail runs from Hollister Ave- nue to the Ridge Trail on the summit of the mountains. The Summit Trail, built by the government, extends from San Mar- cos to Matilija. The Franklin Canyon Trail leads up Franklin Canyon from Carpinteria Valley, 12 miles east of Santa Bar- bara, to the summit of the range, 5 miles ; thence to the Santa Ynez river (2 miles) and to the mouth of Juncal Canyon. The Andrews Trail runs from the San Roque Trail by way of Bryant, Barger and Loma Abaca canyons to the Cieneguitaa road (4 mi'es). The Cold Springs Trail is reached by Monte- cito roads or Mountain Drive to Easton place, whence the trail leads to the summit (12% miles). From the Cold Springs Trail the Waring Trail turns to the right, returning to Monte- oito by way of Bradbury place (10 miles). The Romero Trail leads from the Ortega schoolhouse to the Santa Ynez river (9 miles). From Shepard's Inn the Rincon Trail reaches the Ridge Trail, and thence leads to the river (13 miles). The parks of Santa Barbara add much to the beauty of the city. Plaza Del Mar, on the waterfront (reached by aU car lines) has been described. Oak Park (terminus of Oak Park car line) is a fine natural grove of oaks and sycamores. Plaza Alameda (reached by Garden-street cars) is a beautiful park of ten acres in the heart of the city. From Lavigia Hill (290 feet), above Santa Barbara Point, a beautiful view of the city may be obtained. The Santa Barbara Hot Springs lie about five miles northeast of the city in a picturesque canyon, at an elevation of 1,420 feet. The springs are about twenty in num- ber, the water varying from 60 degrees to 120 degrees. The view from here over the city and its suburbs, the channel and the islands, is magnificent. Y'achting and fishing in the channel are among the sports of Santa Barbara, which include as well practically all forms of outdoor recreation, such as golf, polo and tennis, swim- ming, hunting and mountain climbing. In the calm waters of the channel the United States battleships hold maneuvers; in fact, the Santa Barbara Channel has come to be known as "the playground of the Pacific Fleet." Speed tests for war vessels built on the Pacific Coast are made in these waters. The fishing is for barracuda, bonito and albicore, which abound in mid-channel and for tuna on the seaward side. The Channel Islands may be visited by sailboat or launch; Santa Cruz Island, with its wonderful sea caves, is especially popular with tourists. 130 The leading hotels of Santa Barbara are The Potter Hotel, A. P. $3 lip; Arlington Hotel, A. P. $3 up; Hotel Mascarel, A. P. $2 to $3. 8. Santa Barbara to Los Angeles The Coast Line of the Southern Pacific runs from Santa Barbara to SUMMERLAND (5). This place started as a summer resort, but petroleum was discovered and now it is a growing oil center. A remarkable feature is the fact that the oil derricks reach out into the ocean some distance be- yond the low-tide mark, pumping the crude petroleum from the veins far beneath the ocean bottom. From Summerland the route extends to CARPINTERIA (5). Here is the largest grape vine in the world, with a base circumference of 9 feet. The vine is of the celebrated Mission variety. It bore ten tons of grapes in 1896, its record vintage. Tliough not as old as the great vine at Hampton Court in England, the Carpinteria vine is considerably larger. About the town are extensive orchards and vineyards. Stewart Ed- ward White, the well-knewn author, resides near the beach at Carpinteria. In the mountains, six miles from Carpinteria, on Rincon Creek, is Stanley Park, a popular resort. There are hot and cold sulphur springs at this place, and the hunt- ing and fishing are excellent. Shepherd's Inn is about one mile distant from Stanley Park. These resorts are in the Santa Ynez Forest Reserve, and there are five trails leading into the mountains (described under Santa Barbara) . The route from Carpinteria reaches Benham (3), entering VENTURA COUNTY. This county has an area of 1,878 square miles, with about 50 miles of sea coast. The popula- tion in 1910 was 18,347; in 1900, it was 14,367. The principal products of the county are beets and beans, but there are also many orchards of apricot, lemon and orange trees and exten- sive walnut groves. The coast region of Ventura county and the territory adjoining to the north and south constitute the greatest bean-producing section in the United States; thou- sands of tons of Lima beans are grown here. From Carpin- teria the roads skirt the coast upon the high bluffs overlook- ing the ocean, the hinterland being a rich agricultural dis- trict, hay and beans being the main crops. From Benham the route runs through Punta Gorda (IV2), Seacliff (3), Dulah (4), to Ventura (iVa). 131 VENTURA (San Buenaventura), the county seat, is one of California's mission towns. The population in 1910 was 2,945, but with environs it now numbers 5,000. (Hotel Ana- capa, A. P. $2 up.) The situation of the city is picturesque, lying at the mouth of the Ventura River, extending from the ocean back into the foothills. Ventura is fast becoming a con- siderable commercial and manufacturing point. The beach is one of the best and safest for bathing on the California coast, without undertow or tide-rip. The public buildings include the public library, with seven thousand volumes, town hall, high school and other schools, county court house and county hospital. The Bard collection of reMcs connected with early California history may be seen at Ventura. There are two public parks. The point of greatest interest is Mission San Buenaventura, founded March 31, 1782. TTie church, all that remains of the old mission buildings, is in excellent preservation and is still the parish church of the Catholics of the community. The church stands in the center of the city, passed by electric cars. The brick walls are six feet thick; the roof is covered with shingles, instead of the original tiles. The two-story belfry tower is characteristic and still holds the old bells, brought originally from Spain and later from Mexico on mule- back. The interior of the mission is newly and handsomely decorated. Nearly 4,000 are buried in the little graveyard west of the church. The founding of the mission was the last work of Father Junipero Serra. It was estabMshed Easter Sunday, March 30, 1783. It grew rapidly, and when Vancou- ver visited the mission in 1793 he was struck with its gardens and orchards. A disastrous fire caused the erection of new buildings, the present church being erected in 1794-1809. The mission takes its name from San Buenaventura, Doctor Sara- fico (Saint Bonaventura, Serafic Doctor). An aqueduct six miles long carried water to the mission from the Ventura River. Two large date palms, planted in the early days of the mission, still remain. One of these ancient trees stands in a pleasant park, with a protecting lodge beside it built by the Native Daughters of the Golden West. From Ventura a side trip of unusual attractiveness is to Nordhoif and the Ojai Valley, described in Section a of this Route. There are two routes from Ventura to Los Angeles. T'he old route is by way of Santa Pau^a and Camulos (Ra- mona's home) to Saugus, and thence through Fernando and Burbank to Los Angeles; this trip is described in Section b under this Route. The newer and shorter way between Ven- tura and Los Angeles is through Oxnard and Chatsworth, and is outlined herewith. 132 The railroad extends southeast from Ventura to Montalvo (5), named in honor of the early Spanish author in whose novel the name California fiist appeared. At this place the branch line to Santa Paula and Camulos diverges. (See Route 8b.) Prom Montalvo the main line crosses the Santa Clara River to El Rio (2) and thence to Oxnard (2). OXNARD, the second city of Ventura county, is the center of the sugar beet industry, with a tributary region raising also grain, beans and walnuts. (Hotel Oxnr.rd, A. P. $2.50 up.) The population is about 3,500'; in 1910 is was 2,555. There is an excellent library in a handsome building. In the center of the city is a pretty plaza. The Oxnard sugar beet factory is the largest in the world, and the processes employed in this manufactory are of interest to tourists. Local railroad lines from Oxnard lead to Nordhoff and the Simi region. The Ventura & Bakersfield Railroad runs from Oxnard to Ormonde Beach and the old town of Huenema (4), and thence along the coast to Round Mountain. The Ventura County Rai'road also runs a daily motor-car service between Oxnard and Hueneme. From Oxnard the main route extends east to Camarillo (9) in a rich bean-growing and orchard section. From here a pic- turesque auto route runs to Los Angeles through Russell Val- ley, between the Simi Hills on the north and the Santa Monica Mountains on the south. This road passes through Newbury (10) to Calabasas (16), in Los Angeles county. Los Angeles is 29 miles farther east. Beyond Camarillo the main line passes Somis (3), Lagol (3), Tunez (1^^) and Moorpark (3). All these towns are in the bean-growing region. To the north of here, in the foot- hills, is the town of Epworth. From Moorpark the line trav- erses the Simi Valley, mainly a stock-raising country, to the towns of Simi (5) and Santa Susana (5i/^). From here the railroad passes through the Santa Susana tunnel into Los An- geles county at Chatsworth. LOS ANGELES COUNTY is the largest in the state in point of population, and ranks high in wealth and resources. Its land area is 4,067 square miles. Within its limits may be found a variety of scenery and climate which can scarcely be matched by any other California county. The topography in- cludes the breezy seashore, the warm inland plains and mesas, the cool uplands and snow-covered mountains, and even the islands of the Pacific, for Santa Catalina and Santa Barbara islands are parts of Los Angeles county. This diversity of surroundings has made the region popular with tourists and 133 liomeseekors alike. The result of making known to the world the delights of Los Angeles county may be seen in the United States census reports. In 1S80 it had a population of only 33,881; in 1890 it had 101,454; in 1900 this had increased to 170,298. The census of 1910 showed a population of 504,131 in Los Angeles county, and the growth since then has been unchecked. These figures show that the county has increased in population fifteen-fold within the last thirty years. An even more remarkable growth has been in the assessed valuation of property, increasing from $26,655,294 in 1882 to $607,182,757 in 1912 (including railroads). The principal industry is horti- culture, the development of orange growing during the last few years having been great. Besides the orange and lemon, the principal fruits raised are the fig, prune, apricot, peach and pear; walnuts, almonds and berries are grown extensively. Ir- rigation has rendered the farmer independent of the season's rainfall and added to the productiveness of the land, but suc- cessful farming can be carried on in most parts of the county without irrigation. About four-fifths of the area of Los An- geles county is capable of cultivation, the rest being moun- tainous. About 90 per cent of the people live within thirty miles of the ocean. From Chatsworth (Chats worth Park) the main line of the Southern Pacific continues southeast to Burbank (18). BUR- BANK, two miles from the city limits of Los Angeles, is sit- uated in the foothills of the Verdugo Mountains, with a rise of several hundred feet. Its commanding position has given it the name of "the panorama city." Burbank is a choice resi- dential section and is connected with Los Angeles with broad boulevards and electric railways, as well as by the Southern Pacific lines. From Burbank the railroad runs to the River Station (9) and thence to Arcade Depot, Los Angeles (2). (The city of Los Angeles and its suburbs are described in Route 9 of this book.) (a) Ventura to Nordhoff From Ventura a branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad and several automobile roads lead northward to the famous OJAI VALLEY. Ojai (pronounced o-high) is said to mean "nest" in the Indian language. This country was first her- alded to the world by Charles Nordhoff, the journalist, whose name is borne by the principal town of the valley. The Ojai can be reached from Santa Paula, or from Santa Barbara, the latter route being by the Casitas Pass, noted for the beauty of its scenery. The roads leading to NORDHOFF, in 134 the lower Olai Valley, foPow a beautiful route along the Ven- tura River and San Antonio Creek. The valley is divided into the upper and lower Ojai, embracing together about 18,000 acres. The altitude of the lower valley is 800 to 1,00'0 feet; of the upper valley, 1,100 to 1,300 feet. About it lie mountains, the Topa range. The valley is adapted to agriculture, but its attractions to tourists make it best known. Scattered over the val'ey and hills are great live-oaks, which give it the ap- pearance of an English country park. NORDHOFF, with a population of about 650, is a quiet town, 14 miles north of Ventura. (Foothills Hotel, A. P. $3 up; Ojai Inn, A. P. $2.) From this center many delightful side trips are taken. There are numerous resorts in the vicin- ity for tourists and health-seekers. Near Nordhoff is Casa Piedra, the Thacher school for boys. In the surrounding mountains are numerous hot springs, with hotels and bath- houses. Matilija Springs (pronounced Mah-tee-lee-ha), four miles from Nordhoff, are hot sulphur springs situated in the Matilija Canyon near the Ventura River. Here are popular camping grounds. This region is the home of the white Ma- tilija poppy. Farther up the Matilija Canyon is Lyon's. Near the source of the river are beautiful falls. The overhanging rock in Matilija Canyon is another object of interest. From here are reached Pine Mountain and White Rock Creek, where the wild beauty of the scenery holds the traveler. Across the mountains from the Ojai, reached by a 14-mile trail, is Lathrop's Camp, on Sespe Creek, where there are ex- cellent trout-fisMng and quail and deer hunting in season. Twelve miles down the Sespe are Willett's Hot Sulphur Springs, and farther on are the Big Sespe Hot Springs, with the largest flow of sulphur water in the world. The mountains in the northern part of Ventura county (in the government Forest Reserve) contain much rugged and grand scenery, though not much visited by tourists. The game in- cludes deer and mountain quail, with an occasional brown bear and mountain Hon. In the Lockwood Valley are exten- sive borax mines, while placer mines are worked along the Piru Creek, in this region. At the mines of San Felician gold was taken out in paying quantities some years before Mar- shall's discovery at Coloma. (See El Dorado County.) Between Nordhoff and Santa Paula, 6 miles from either place, are the Sulphur Mountain Springs, on the side of the remarkably striped Sisar Peak, at the junction of Sisar and Santa Paula Creeks. This is a resort for those wishing rest or recreation. 135 (b) Ventura to Los Angeles via Santa Paula From Ventura this route extends Lo Montalvo (5), whence it leaves the main line, running up the Santa Clara Valley. The line follows the northern bank of the river to Sa,ticoy (4), the center of a thriving agricultural district, producing mainly Lima beans and walnuts. The population is about 400. From Saticov the route passes through Haines (,4) to Santa Paula (31/2). SANTA PAULA, a city of 2,500 inhabitants, is situated at the point where the Santa Paula canyon opens out into the broad Santa Clara Valley. (Casa Ledrillo, $2 up.) The city is the center of the petroleum production of Ventura county, the oil being found in the surrounding hills. This is also a great citrus fruit district, and near here is the largest lemon orchard in the world, the Limoneria Ranch. Santa Paula has an excellent library, and the public schools are first class. From Santa Paula a stage line runs to Sulpliur Springs. Beyond Santa Paula the railroad passes through Sespe (7) and Brownstone (1) to Fillmore (2), near tiie juncture of the Sespe Creek with the Santa Clara river. There are well-kept lemon and orange orchards about this rapidly-growing city. A bridge across the Santa Clara here connects Fillmore with a fertile tributary region. Near Fillmore is the town of Bards- dale. The route continues from Fillmore through Cavin (3i/^) and Buckhorn (2), to Piru (2). This old town is in a rich district, with fruit and nut orchards. The mountains on the north, which separate the valley from the Mojave Desert, are the San Rafael range; to the south is the Sierra San Fer- nando. From Piru the train runs to Camulos (3). The little town of CAMULOS, on the Camulos Rancho, is well known as forming the setting of "Ramona," Helen Hunt Jackson's famous novel. The house which she took for her model is the old Del Valle home, typical of early California life. The house is situated near the station, and a glimpse of it may be had from the train, l)ut usually a visit of an hour or more is en- joyed by tourists about "Ramona's House." The house, constructed of adobe, was built about 60 years ago. The patio, with its flowers and its fountain, and the south veranda are of interest. The room of Ramona is at the eastern end of this veranda; that of Father Salvierda at the western (raised) end. Close by the house is the quaint chapel, its decorations brought from Spain. Near the chapel, hanging in a wooden frame, are three old bells once belonging to the missions of San Fernando and San Buenaventura. 136 South from the chapel a short distance is another fountain, bordered with hollowed stones used by the early Indians as mortars for grinding corn. Beyond the grape arbor near the fountain is the creek, mentioned so often in the novel, and farther on is the Santa C'ara River. The picturesque grave- yard of the Del Valle family lies on a slope some distance from the settlement. It is remarkable that Helen Hunt Jackson spent but two hours at Camulos, yet was able to accurately reproduce its details in "Ramona." From Camulos the railroad reaches past Kemp (4) into Los Angeles county, just beyond that town. The route from Kemp runs through Castaic (6) to Saugus (5), where the main line of the Southern Pacific (Valley Route) is joined. This line from Saugus continues through Fernando and Burbank to Los Angeles, and is described under the route, "Bakersfield to Los Angeles.'' (Consult Table of Contents.) 9. Los Angeles LOS ANGELES is situated on a broad plain sloping toward the Pacific Ocean, 16 miles distant; to the north rise the high mountains of the San Gabriel Range and the Sierra Madre, while the plain is broken in other directions by hills and mountains of lesser elevation. Los Angeles is known abroad as the "ideal tourist city," and not the least of her attractions for travelers is the picturesque location. The pleasures of the beaches and mountain-tops within easy reach of the city add to the charm. The city is the metropolis of Southern Cal- ifornia and of the great Southwest. The import- ance of the metropolitan area of which Los Angeles is the center may be judged by the fact that there are over fifty towns and cities of considerable size which may be considered as suburbs, as well as thousands of acres of thickly settled land, devoted mainly to orange culture. The territory to the east of Los Angeles is the greatest citrus fruit region in the world. This is one of the contributing causes to the growth of the city. Another is the climate, famous the world over. The annual average temperature is 62 degrees, while the aver- age yearly rainfall is 15.55 inches. Besides soil and climate, location has been a factor in the upbuilding of the community, and this will increase in force with the development of Port Los Angeles, on San Pedro Bay, with its facilities for com- merce and manufacturing. All of these advantages which Los Angelea Is acknowledged to possess have caused one of the most remarkable growths 137 of population recorded in history. From a little Spanish pueblo thirty years ago the community has sprung into a mod- ern American city, one of the most progressive and energetic in the United States. Most of this development has come within the last ten years. The official figures are instructive. In 1890 the population was 50,395; in 1900, it was 102,479; in 1910, 319,198. The present population is about 500,000. Other statistics show the importance and progressiveness of the city today. The taxable wealth is $496,522,390. The banks number 41, with deposits aggregating $181,886,445. The bank clearings for the year 1912 were $1,168,941,700. The value of building permits issued in 1912 amounted to $31,366,357. Over $11,- 000,000 is being spent by the city and the federal government on the improvement of San Pedro harbor, described in a later paragraph. There are 2,400 manufacturing establishments in Los Angeles, their total annual output being valued at $85,- 000,000. There are 127 public school buildings, 22 public parks, with a combined area of 3,897 acres; 312 churches, represent- ing all denominations. Twenty-five years ago there was not a single paved street in Los Angeles; now the city has over 600 miles of graded and graveled streets, 102 miles of paved thoroughfares and 467 miles of sewers. The commercial im- portance of the city is considered later under the description of Fort Los Angeles (San Pedro). One of the most remarkable engineering works ever under- taken by a municipality is the great Los Angeles Aqueduct. The city possesses water rights for manj' miles along the banks of the Owens River, in Inyo county, and from there the water will be brought to Los Ange'es, a distance of 240 miles, by means of an aqueduct and more than 20 miles of tunnels. The cost of the enterprise was estimated at ?23,000,000, and it will be completed for less. The aqueduct will supply water sufficient for 2,000,000 people. Much of this can be used for irrigation and the water will also furnish a great amount of electric power for lighting and factories. The aqueduct is the longest in the world; it will carry ten times as much wa- ter as was furnished by all the famous aqueducts of ancient Rome combined. There will be 258,000,000 gallons of water a day delivered into the San Fernando reservoir, 25 miles northwest of the Los Angeles city hall; this is one of the six reservoirs included in the project. No pumping plants will be required, as the system is gravity throughout. This great water course is constructed entirely of steel and concrete, an army of almost 4,000 men being employed in its constrac- tion. The history of Los Angeles holds much of interest; it can here be briefly summarized. On August 2, 1769, Caspar 188 de Portola, governor of California, crossed the San Gabriel River with 64 men. Among the party were Fathers Juan Crespi and Francisco Gomez. The site of the present city, because of the date (a Franciscan feast day), they called "Our Lady the Queen of the Angels," or in th sonorous Span- ish, "Nuestra Senora la Reina de Los Angeles." There was an Indian village in this region, but the first settlement by whites was not until 1781. On September 4 of that year a company of pcb adores, or colonists, founded the pueblo of Los Angeles. These people had been brought frora the states of Sonora and Sinalca, Mexico, tor the purpose of establishing an agricul- tural settlement to raise produce for the soldiers at the pre- sidios throughout California. This little band was a mixed assemblage; there were 72 Spanish-Americans, 1 European, ■f Indi-^ns, 22 mulattoes and 39 Mestizos. The Mission Church of Nuestra Senora de los Angeles (described later), was com- pleted in 1822. The town grew slowly, and in 1831, fifty years after the founding, it had only 770 inhabitants. The popula- tion in January, 1847, was 1,500. In the Mexican War the town was the scene of important miUtary operations. After the American occupation it continued to be a small though distinctive town, until the completion of the Atlantic and Pacific railway in 1885. Since that date it has been the metropolis of Southern California. Its phenomenal growth during the last twenty-five years has been described already. Not the least of the attractions of Los Angeles to the tour- ist are the residence districts; in fact, many visitors decide to make their permanent abode in Los Angeles after viewing the comfortable homes of the city. Along the wide tree-lined avenues are row after row of beautiful homes. Many of them are built in the famous Mission architecture. The original East Indian bungalow style has been modified and developed in this region so that now it is scarcely less distinctively Californian than is the Mission style. Most of the streets are lined with palms; the homes occupy spacious lots, with flowers and lawns surrounding them. The conditions of solid comfort in the homes of Los Angeles add vastly to the city's charni. There are a number of attractive residence districts, probably the finest homes being westerly of the business section. Northwest of the mercantile center is the Angelino Heights district; to the southwest are Arlington Heights, Pico Heights and the University District. To the northeast are the East Side, Garvanza and Highland Park; to the east are Boyle Heights and Brooklyn Heights. Vernon is southeast of the mercantile center. The Westlake District lies to the west. East of the Plaza is Chinatown, while north of the Plaza is Sonora Town, or the Mexican quarter. 139 The business section of Los Angeles extends for a mile or more along Broadwa5% Main street and Spring street, and the thoroughfares adjacent. The fashionable shopping district is mainly along Broadway. The retail stores rival those of New York, Chicago and San Francisco in their variety of wares and commodious quarters. The business streets are lined with office buildings of steel and concrete, with stately public structures, theaters, clubs, restaurants, shops and lux- urious hotels. Nothing is lacking in the equipment of Los An- geles to mark it as a modern American city of the first class. The wholesale and manufacturing districts extend eastward from Los Angeles street to the bed of the Los Angeles river and northward from the X^laza. Los Angeles is one of the best lighted cities in the world. There are many fine public buildings in the city. TTie Federal Building (Postoffice) is an imposing edifice situated at Temple and North Spring streets. The City Hall is situated on the east side of Broadway, between Second and Third streets. The County Court House and the Hall of Records stand together at Broadway and Temple street, two blocks north of First street. The Los Angeles Public Library is lo- cated at 320 West Eighth street; it has a collection of 203,555 volumes; ther are 41 branches in the city, of which 22 have reading rooms. The Chamber of Commerce occupies a hand- some building of its own, 122 to 134 South Broadway, and is visited by hundreds of thousands of people yearly, the aver- age annual registration being 185,000. Information and liter- ature concerning Los Angeles and every part of the state may be obtained here. TTiere is a large free exhibit of nat- ural and manufactured products of Southern California on the second and third floors. In the Assembly Hall are given free lectures daily concerning the resources and scenic attrac- tions of California; these are illustrated with stereopticon lantern slides and moving pictures. The Temple Auditorium is at Olive and West Fifth streets, facing Central Park. This is the largest structure of its kind in the country, is built of reinforced concrete and is fireproof. It includes an auditorium seating 4,000, a banquet hall to serve 1,000, two large concert halls and an office building. The State Normal School building at the corner of Fifth street and Grand avenue, cost $150,000. The University of Southern California is a richly endowed institution and splen- didly equipped, with a College of Law, College of Dentistry and College of Fine Arts, in addition to the usual curriculum in the College of Liberal Arts. The principal group of build- ings is in the southern part of the city, on Wesley avenue. 140 There are over two thousand pupils enrolled in the various col'eges. Another leading educational institution is Occidental College, located at Highland Park; there are 300 students. The white granite and marble buildings occupied by the Poly- technic High School are among the finest public school struc- tures in America; they are situated in the block at the head of Hope street, on Washington street. TTiere are 127 public schools in Los Angeles, with 1,680 teachers and over 50,000 pupils. Among the private schools and academies are the Harvard Military School (Western avenue, corner of Six- teenth street). Girls' Collegiate School (Adams and Hoover streets), Los Angeles Academy (920 West Ninth street), Los Angeles Conservatory of Music and Arts (Walker Auditorium building, 730 Sorth Grand avenue), Los Angeles Military Academy, Los Angeles School of Art and Design, St. Vincent's College, Westlake School for Girls (612 South Alvarado avenue). The Southwest Museum contains one of the most valuable and interesting coPections on the Pacific Coast. It is the property of the Southwest Society, Archaeological Institute of America, and Southwest Museum, Incorporated. Established in 1903, the endowment of the museum now amounts to over $300,000. The present quarters of the museum are in rooms of the Hamburger building, 320 West Eighth street. The fu- ture location will be largely on Museum Hill, in the north- eastern part of the city (Avenue 46, opposite Sycamore Grove), where sixteen acres have been purchased for a site and a handsome building is being erected. The collections cover the archaeology and history of the Southwest. They include the relics of General John C. Fremont, many of Junipero Serra and other early Franciscan missionaries, re- minders of o]d Spanish days in Southern California and a vast amount of other material relating to the Southwest during historic and prehistoric times. The library comprises 4,500 volumes. The museum is open to the public daily except Sun- day from 2 to 4 p. m. The exhibit of the Los Angeles Chamber of Mines and Oil, located in the Germain building, 224 South Spring street, is of interest to those investigating the natural resources of the state. Tliere are also interesting collections in the museum building in Exposition Park (see below). There are art exhibitions at Blanchard Hall (233 South Broadway), Kanst Gallery (642 South Spring street) and Steckel Gallery (336i^ South Broadway). There are churches in Los Angeles representing all the leading denominations, the buildings numbering 312. The church architecture adds much to the beauty of the city. The 141 St. Paul's Pro-Cathedral (Episcopalian) is at 523 South Olive street. St. John's Episcopal church is at Figueroa and Adams streets. The Cathedral of St. Vibiana (Roman Catholic) is situated on Main street, between Second and Third. St. "Vincent's is a magnificent Roman Catholic church at Grand avenue and Washington streets. The Broadway Church of Christ (Christian) is opposite the Court House on Broadway; First Christian church at the corner of Hope and Eleventh streets; First Baptist church at 725 South Flower street; First Congregational church at 837 South Hope street. The First Church of the Nazarene is situated at the corner of Sixth and WaU streets; T'rinity Methodist Episcopal Church South is at Ninth street and Grand avenue; Central Methodist Episcopal at 133 West Fifteenth street; First Methodist at the corner of Sixth and Hill streets. The First Presbyterian church is at Twentieth and Figueroa streets; Immanuel Pres- byterian, at the corner of Tenth and Figueroa streets; Central Presbyterian at 220 South Hill street; Cumberland Presbyterian, on Union avenue near Tenth street. The First Unitarian church is at 925 South Flower street The First English Lutheran church is nearby at 80'0 South Flower street. The First Universalist church is at 1500 Figueroa street. TTie Friends' church is at Third and Fremont streets. The Channing Street Mission (Brethren) is situated between Ninth and Tenth streets, on Channing. The Seventh Day Ad- vent church is at 133 North Twenty-second avenue. The Boyle Heights Holiness church is at 131 North Chicago street. The Fellowship church is at 101 Blanchard building, Broadway between Second and Third streets. TTie First Church of Christ, Scientist, is on Seventeenth street near Figueroa; the Second Church of Christ, Scientist, is on West Adams street, near Hoover. The Jewish synagogue, Congre- gation B'nai B'rith, is at the corner of Ninth and Hope streets. These are on'y a few of the leading churches; the others may be found in the city directory and in the Saturday newspapers. The large Young Men's Christian Association building is lo- cated at Seventh and Hope streets; the Young Women's Chris- tian Association has its headquarters at Third and Hill streets. The oldest church in the city is the so-called Mission Church of Our Lady of the Angels (Nuestra Senora de los Angeles), which faces the Plaza on North Main street (take North Broadway car). The church and buildings are in an ex- cellent state of preservation and services are regularly held in the chapel. This is not, strictly speaking, a mission; it was founded as the pueblo church of Los Angeles. The citi- 142 zens gained permission to build a church in 1811, and laid the cornerstone in 1814, but the building was not completed and dedicated until December 8, 1822. The present structure was built in 1861, out of material taken from the old building. There are some curious paintings to be seen in the church. The work of Indian neophytes in the old mission days, they o.re for the most part rather crude. The chorals, vestments and paintings brought originally from Spain are equally in- teresting, and the pictures are of higher artistic merit. The Inner court or patio adjoining the chapel, and the church gar- den are worthy of a visit. Among the imposing buildings of Los Angeles the hotels hold no small position. Some of the greatest tourist hotels in the country are located within the city limits, and there are others (mentioned later) at Pasadena, Long Beach and other nearby cities. The largest hostelries, perhaps, are the Alexandria, the Van Nuys, the Lankeishim, the Westminster and the Angelus, but there are a great number of commodious hotels throughout the down-town section and in the suburbs. Los Angeles has accommodations in her hotels alone for 3 00,000 visitors. Among the city's hotels a few of the most representative are here mentioned: Hotel Alexandria, E. P. $2 up; Angelus, E. P. $1.50 up; Auditorium, E. P. $1 up; Al- varado, A. P. $2.50 up; Alhambra, E. P. $1 up; Antlers, E. P. $1 up; Balboa, E. P. $1 up; Baltimore, E. P. 75 cents to $2; Chickasaw, E. P. $1 up; Chapman, E. P. 75 cents up; Fremont, A. P. $2.50 up; Gates, B. P. $1 up; Hollenbeck, E. P. $1 up; Hay ward, E. P. $1 up; Heinzeman, E. P. $1 up, A. P. $2.50 up; Huntington, E. P. $1 up without bath, $1.50 up with bath; In- graham, A. P. $2.50 up; King Edward, E. P. 75 cents up; Lank- ershim, E. P. $1.50 up; Leighton, A. P. $3.50 up; Lakeview, A. P. $2.50 up; Melrose, A. P. $2.50' up; Nadeau, E. P. $1 up; New Broadway, E. P. 75 cents up; Natick, E. P. 50 cents up, A. P. ^1.25 up; Occidental, E. P 75 cents up; Pepper, A. P. $2 up; Pleasanton, A. P. $2 up; Rosslyn, E. P. $1 up, A. P. $1.50 up; Sherman, E. P. $1 up; Snow, E. P. $1 up; Trenton, E. P. $1 up; Valdemar, E. P. 75 cents up; Van Nuys, E. P. $1.50 up; Vic- toria, E. P. $1 up; Watson, E. P. $1 up; Westminster, E. P. $1 up; Westmoore, A. P. $2.50 up; Woodward, E. P. $1 up, A. P. $2 up. The theaters of Los Angeles include some of the finest on the Pacific Coast. TTie leading playhouses are the Mason (Broadway, near Second street). Majestic (Broadway, near Eighth), Morosco (Broadway, between Seventh and Eighth streets), Burbank (Main and Sixth streets). Century (Main street, between Fifth and Sixth), Auditorium (Fifth and Olive 143 streets), Empress (Spring street, near Fourth), Orpheum (Broadway, between Sixth and Sevenrh streets), Grand Opera House (First and Main streets), Belasco (325 South Main street), Los Angeles (334 South Spring street), Princess (119 West First street). Unique (East Third street), Clune's (Fifth and Main streets; Broadway, between Fifth and Sixth streets). Tally's (Broadway near Eighth), Walker's (Grand avenue, near Seventh). Several of the public parks of Los Angeles are of consider- able size and contain attractions for the visitor. Westlake Park is situated at Seventh and Alvarado streets (end of Seventh-street car line). This is a highly cultivated area of 35 acres, with pleasant walks and drives and a boating lake. Eastlake Park, in East Los Angeles at Mission road and Al- hambra avenue is a tract of fifty acres (reached by North Broadway or North Main-street cars). This park contains many attractions for children, as it has playgrounds with swings and a merry-go-round, a zoo and a boating lake. There is a'so a botanical exhibit. Hollenbeck Park is situated in the Boyle Heights district, on the east side of the river (reached by East Fourth street and Cummings street lines). The tract is about 20 acres in extent and contains a long, winding lake, surrounded by picturesque shrubbery. Central Park, the best improved of all the municipal parks, is on Sixth street, not far from the business center. Echo Park, at Temple street and Lake Shore avenue, contains the largest body of water in the city, Echo Lake. This is excellent for boating; there are tree-covered islands in the lake and it is spanned here and there by bridges. TTiere is also a children's playground; the total area of the park is about 30 acres. It is reached by th ramento are the general shops of the Southern Pacific rail- road Company and the Western Pacific Railroad Company's headquarters are here; electric lines and river steamship routes run from the city in all directions. Sacramento is one of the great transportation centers of the state. The city is situated on the Sacramento River at an altitude of 23 feet, just south of the point where the American River joins the larger stream. The Sacramento River is one of the greatest waterways of the United States. It now ranks fourth among the rivers of the country in tonnage carried, and the government is to spend millions in improving it. The river has its source on the southwest slope of Mount Shasta and .90 Centra! part of Sacramento. flows south 350 miles to Siilsim Bay; it is navigable to Red Bluff, 262 miles. At one time large ocean-going steamers went up to Sacramento, but erosion of soil from farming and mining filled the river channel with silt. The Sacramento Valley is one of the most fertile regions of the world. Three million acres of almost level land and several millions of foot- hill land are adapted to agriculture; in all there are 12,000,000 acres embraced in the valley. It is approximately 160 miles long and varies in width up to 60 miles at its lower end. The Capitol at Sacramento is one of the most imposing and costly structures in the United States and is worthy of the great state of which it is the seat of government. It stands in a magnificent park of 35 acres near the center of the city, bounded by L, N, Tenth and Fifteenth streets. The Capitol stands on an embankment ten feet higher than the level of the surrounding streets. Begun in 1860, the corner- stone of the Capitol was laid May 15, 1861. It was completed in 1874, but since then many improvements have been made. The total cost amounts to over $3,000,000; competent authori- ties have declared that the structure could not be duplicated for $5,000,000. 191 The main entrance is on the west; there are two smaller entrances on the east. The corridor at the entrance is of white Utah sandstone, trimmed with California marble base and onyx panels. In the basement are mainly storage and record rooms. The corridors of the first floor are beautifully tiled; a colored representation of the great seal of the state in the floor, six feet across, ornaments the entra,nce to each corridor. In the center of the rotunda stands a heroic statue, Columbus before Isabella, presented to the state in 1883, by Darius Ogden Mills. It is the work of La,rkin G. Mead, the eminent American sculptor, and was executed in Florence, Italy, between the years 1S68 and 1874. The purchase price was $30,00'0. The group has been universally admired for its grace and expression. On the first floor of the Capitol are the offices of the Gov- ernor and other executive officers, and the law library. All the offices, especially those of the Governor, are artistically decorated and furnished. On the first floor is also the court room of the Second District Court of Appeal. On the second floor are the Senate and Assembly Chambers, besides execu- tive offices. The Legislative Cinambers are situated at either wing of the Capitol. The State Library, one of the largest in the country, is situated in a semi-circular wing, entered from the second floor. There are 162,080 volumes here, besides 14,658 vol- umes in traveling libraries and 2,609 embossed books for the use of the blind. The California Historical Department is of peculiar interest to students of the state's history. TTie Capitol Dome may be ascended from the fourth floor by means of the winding iron stairway. Stops may be made at the first and second landings, Avhere exterior protected platforms allow the visitor to walk around outside the rotunda, the landscape being attractive. To obtain the most satis- factory result the summit of the dome should be visited. From there a superb panoramic view of the city and the Sacramento Valley is gained, reaching from far-off Mount Shasta, on the north, to Mount Diablo on the south. The course of the Sacramento and American rivers may be traced for miles. The Capitol Park, ten blocks in extent, is thickly planted with trees and shrubs of over 120 varieties, coming from all regions of the world. To the east of the Capitol is half an acre set apart as a memorial grove; here are trees trans- planted from the prominent battlefields of the Civil War and 192 other peaces noted in American history. The State Printing Office is situated at the eastern end of the park facing Fif- teenth street. On the grounds also stands the State Insec- tory, where investigations have been made which have at- tracted the attention of entomologists the world over; the museum here is of interest alike to the specialist and the farmer. The city of Sacramento has many fine public buildings. The Sacramento County Courthouse occupies the square bounded by H, I, Sixth and Seventh streets. On this site stood until 1910 the building which served as State Capitol from 1855 to 1869. The cost of the magnificent new county building was $750,000. A short distance to the east, facing I street, is the city public library, containing 52,900' volumes. The new City Hall is situated on Ninth and I streets; the cost was $300,000. On the corner of Sixteenth and H streets is the Governor's Mansion, located in handsome grounds. The Postoffice building is at Seventh and K streets. The High School is one of the finest in California; the cost of the buiMing was $250,000. Tlie Crocker Art Gallery (Third and O streets), contains one of the finest art collections in the West. The exhibition numbers 700 paintings, chiefly by foreign artists, valued at more than $750,000. He'e are original paintings by Van Dyck, Murillo, Guido Reni, Salvator Rosa, Coreggio Tintor- retto, Leonard da Vinci, Luini and Sir Peter Lely, as well as canvases by Piloty, Kaulbach, Thomas Hill and other modern artists of note. There are also many valuable folios of orig- inal drawings from old and modern masters. This collection was presented to the city and the California Museum Asso- ciation in 1884 by Mrs. Margaret E. Crocker. TTie gallery is open every day. There is exhibted here also a large and valuable cabinet collection of minerals, the property of the state of California. One of the historic landmarks of the state is old Sutter's Fort, now the center of a public park, bounded by Twenty- sixth, Twenty-eighth, K and L streets. The building and en- closure, situated on a slight eminence, have been restored; much of the building is the original structure. The landmark was purchased by the order of the Native Sons of the Golden West and presented to the state. There is an interesting museum of pioneer relics in the main structure; within the ivalls nearby are a "prairie schooner" and an old stage- coach, once driven by the famous "Hank" Monk. TTie fort was founded in 1840 by General John A. Sutter, a native of Switzerland, who received a large grant in this region from 193 the Mexican government. He maintained a permanent gar- rison here and had twelve guns mounted on the walls. The fort was capable of holding 1,000 men; in the early days it was a notable trading post. It was one of the places seized by the Bear Flag revolutionists in 1846 and the Stars and Stripes floated over its walls soon after the historic flag- raising at Monterey in July of the same year. During the "days of gold" the fort continued a center of trade and ac- tivity in the hustling city that sprang up. Besides Capital Park, there are a large number of other beautiful public parks in Sacramento. The plazas were gen- erously given to the city in the early days by General Sutter. The old Plaza (Tenth and J) is in the business section of the city. Fremont Park, Marshall Park and Winn Park are other attractive squares. South Side Park, embracing 33 acres, is bounded by T, X, Sixth and Eighth streets. IVIcKinley Park, in the northeastern portion of the city, is the largest of all, containing 800 acres of oak-studded recreation ground. On the eastern outskirts of the city is the State Agricultural Park (85 acres) where the State Fair is held every year. Besides the race-track, stables and buildings for the accom- modation of stock, there are on the grounds a permanent Agricultural Pavilion and Manufacturers' Pavilion. The fair has been held annually since 1861 and is attended by people from all parts of the state. Oak Park, in the southeastern section of the city, is a popular amusement place. The Baseball Park (Pacific Coast 'League, Class AA), is at Eleventh and Y streets. Another attraction in Sacramento is an ostrich farm (Tenth and W), with from 50 to 100 birds always on exhibition. There are many blocks of parked boulevards in the city and the residence sections are adorned with a luxuriant growth of trees and plants. Popular drives from the city in- clude the Riverside Drive southward along the Sacramento and the drive northeast to Folsom, in the foothills. This is one of the finest stretches of level road in California. The hotels of Sacramento are the Capital Hotel, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Land, A. P. $2 up; Hotel Sacramento, E. P. $1.50 up; Golden Eagle Hotel, E. P. $1 up; Western Hotel, A. P. $1.25 up; Hotel Argus, E. P. $1 up. Sacramento is the railway center of interior California, thus giving unexcelled opportunities to tourists for pleas- ant side trips. The Southern Pacific lines run from the city in five directions. The line leading into the Sierras to the northeast is the Ogden Route, by which is reached Lake 194 Tahoe and other attractive mountain scenery; it is an excel- lent route for those leaving for the Bast and is described later in the divison, Sacramento to Truckee and Nevada Line. A pleasant .iourney to the east is made by a Southern Pacific branch reaching Placerville; this part of the state is covered in the route, Sacramento to Placerville (consult Table of Contents). The line running southwest from Sacramento has already been described, while the Shasta Route (as far as Roseville following the line of the Ogden Route) will be out- lined in the next main division of the book, Sacramento to Marysville. The line of the Southern Pacific extending south to Stockton is described later in the route, Stockton to Sac- ramento. The Western Pacific line, in the same region and from Sacramento northeast through the Feather River Can- yon, is also detailed in following pages. There are a number of electric lines converging at Sacra- mento. The Central California Traction Company's line runs south to Stockton through the rich valley country. The Northern Electric route extends east to Woodland (18 miles) and north to Marysville (42), Oroville (77) and Chico (91). The Vallejo and Northern is another electric line which runs southward toward the bay region. The Sacramento Southern branch of the Southern Pacific runs along the Sacramento River through Del Rio (5), Free- port (4) and Hood (7) to Walnut Grove (9). This line reaches rich fruit-growing and dairying territory. Beyond, along the river, is the Delta region, a jig-saw puzzle of islands stretching for miles, isolated by the river and sloughs. Grand Island, the largest, has 18,000 acres. Three lines of steamers run regularly from Sacramento to San Francisco, passing through this picturesque region. These are the Southern Pacific Netherlands Route, Lauritzen Company and Califor- nia Transportation Company. ( a ) Port Costa to Stockton After leaving Port Costa the line of the Southern Pacific runs to MARTINEZ (4), the county seat, situated in the beau- tiful Alhambra Valley. (Martinez Hotel, A. P. $2 up.) At Martinez are a number of factories, including chemical works, oil works and the plant of the Mountain Copper Company. The population of Martinez in 1910 was 2,115. The county court house is one of the most attractive and modern in the state. Near Martinez are the Alhambra Mineral Springs, whose waters are favorably known as a table beverage. From Martinez or Port Costa may be I'eached the Mount 195 Diablo country by way of the San Ramon branch of the Southern Pacific, described in the next section, Martinez to Livermore. Prom Martinez the route extends through Avon (3), (whence the branch runs south to San Ramon) to Bay Point (3), where there is situated one of the largest lumber yards in the United States. From here the route extends through McAvoy (3) to PITTSBURG (4). This thriving industrial town of about 2,500 people was formerly known as Black Diamond, taking its name from the coal once shipped from the mines six miles in the interior. Pittsburg is now the center of a great fishing industry, about 250 boats putting out from here. Many of the inhabitants work in the salmon canning and packing factories. From Pittsburg the traveler passes through Los Medanos (3) to ANTTOCH (2), on the San JoaQuin. (Santa Fe Hotel, $1.50; Arlington, $1.50.) This is the center for a large and rich section, producing fruit and grain, hay and dairy prod- ucts. The delta islands in the vicinity of Antioch are noted for their fertility. Antioch has a high school and public library. In 1910 the population was 1,124. An electric line (Oakland and Antioch Railway) runs from here southwest across Contra Costa county to Oakland. (See Route 2 a.) The Southern Pacific line continues from Antioch through Brentwood (9) and Byron (5) to BYRON SPRINGS. These springs are famous for the curative properties of their waters and were used by the Indians and early Spanish settlers long before the coming of the Americans. The imposing hotel, of Moorish architecture, is situated in a beautiful park. In the wild hills six miles back of the springs, the notorious Joaquin Murieta and his band once held sway. These pin- nacles are known as Las Piedras del Muerta (The Rocks of Death) and Murieta's cave is among them. Tradition says that the bandits buried a great treasure in this vicinitj, but rieekers for the gold thus far have been disappointed. From Byron Springs the line crosses into San Joaquin County, reaching Bethany (8). Beyond here is Tracy (5), the junction point where the traveler turns northeast to Stockton, 20 miles distant. The region about Stockton is de- scribed in the route, San Francisco to Stockton, and in others from Stockton southward (consult Table of Contents). (b) Martinez to Livermore From Port Costa the San Ramon branch of the Southern Pacific runs through Martinez (4) to Avon (4). From here is reached the town of Concord (4). CONCORD, 196 a town of 1,000 inhabitants, is located near the pretty Ignacio Valley and adjacent to Mount Diablo. It is a shipping point for the surrounding agricultural region. A spot well worth visitng here is the plaza, in the center of the town, which con- tains many beautiful eucalyptus trees. (Concord Inn, A. P. $2.) A broad fourteen-mile boulevard is being built from Con- cord to the top of Mount Diablo, with less than a six per cent grade. From the summit of the mountain (3,896 feet) a mag- nificent view is had; on a clear day Mount Shasta, 200 miles to the north, can be seen, and the snow-capped Sierras to the east. The peak received its Spanish name, El Monte del Diablo, "Devil's Mountain," from the ancient legend of the Indians that a demon occupied its recesses who caused earth- quakes and landslides in the vicinity. Mount Diablo is 30 miles from San Francisco. The San Ramon branch continues from Concord through Hookston (3) and Septimus (1) to Walnut Creek (2), at the loot of the long and narrow San Ramon Valley. T'raversing this beautiful dale, the tralever passes the pretty towns of Alamo (5) and Danville (2), reaching SAN RAMON (3). This is a charming village situated at the head of the valley of the same name. A commanding view is obtained from here over the fertile Livermore Valley, lying to the south in Alameda County. From San Ramon the line continues through Dougherty (6) and Radium (4) to Livermore (5), on the main route between San B'rancisco, Oakland and Stock- ton. The Mount Diablo region is being developed by the ex- tensions of the Oakland, Antioch and Eastern Railway, which is pressing construction work and running electric trains into and out of Contra Costa County, all connecting on the west with Key Route ferries for San Francisco. The point of departure in Oakland going east, (Fortieth street and Shaffer avenue) is 7.9 miles from San Francisco. From that station the run is made to San Pablo Bay. The stations and distances are here given: Leaving Fortieth and Shatter the succeeding stations are College and Shatter, (l^/^). Rock Ridge (1/2), Thornhill (2.3), Cape Horn (1), Havens (%), Eastport (1), Canyon (1.3), Pinehurst (1), Valle Vista (1), Moraga (1.1), Burton (2.3), Lafayette (2.9), Sanarap (1.9), Walnut Creek (11/2), Septimus (2.2), Hookston {V2), Meinert Junction (1.1). From Meinert Junction there is a branch running to Gavin (2), and Walwood (1). Those who wish to ascend Mount Diablo get off at Walwood. Resuming descrip- 197 tion of the main line, after leaving Meinert Junction the next station is Concord (2i/^); next come Ohmer (2i/^), Bay Point (3.3). The road will be completed to Sacramento in a short time. Connections are made at Bay Point with Santa Fe and Southern Pacific trains to and from all points. The Oakland, Antioch and Eastern Railway is standard gauge, allowing the use of Pullman cars and all regulation equip- ment. An observation car is run for tlie accommodation of excursionists. There are excursions over this road from San Francisco, Oakland, Berkeley and Alameda to Mount Diablo every Saturday and Sunday and on holidays. From Walwood the climb to the top of the mountain is easy for pedestrians, a trail having been cut for their accommodation; the nev/ automobile boulevard is utilized part of the way. (c) Vallejo and Mare Island From Vallejo Junction a ferry crosses Carquinez Straits to South Vallejo, whence the railroad runs north to Vallejo. The city can be reached direct from San Francisco by the Monticello Steamship Company's line. VALLEJO, already mentioned, again comes to the atten- tion of the tourist who makes this side trip. (Bernard Hotel, A. P. $2.00, $2.50 up; St. Vincent's Hotel, A. P. and E. P.) A good description of this part of the state will be found on page 188 of this book. The visit to the Mare Island Navy Yard, reached by ferry from Vallejo, will be enjoyed by visitors. Back of Vallejo rises Sulphur Springs Mountain (966 feet), from which an excellent view over the picturesque landscape may be had. On its western side, three miles from the city, are the Vallejo V/hite Sulphur Springs, which have a mild, tepid sulphur water. Southeast of Vallejo is a large govern- ment reservation. From Vallejo can be reached the Napa Valley, by way of the Southern Pacific line running through Flosden (3) to Napa Junction (3). From Napa Junction lines run to Napa and Santa Rosa, described in other sections of this book (consult index). (d) Elmira to Rumsey From Elmira the Rumsey branch of the Southern Pacific runs northwest to Vacaville (4). This town (population 1,200) is situated in the little Vaca Valley, one of the noted early fruit sections of the state. There are extensive vege- table fields in this region. From here is reached Winters (12). 198 WINTERS, situated on Putah Creek, at the base of pic- turesque foothills, is the second town of Yolo County. It is a large shipping center for fruit, vegetables and corn. Win- ters has fine public buildings. This city, which was founded in 1875, had a population of 910 in 1910 and is growing steadily. Prom Winters the route extends through Ely (4i/^) and Citrona (3) to Madison (3%). This town is 12 miles due west from Woodland, with which it is connected by road. From Madison the town of Esparto (3) is reached through a rich orchard and grain territory and beyond lies Capay (2i/^), a center for stock-raising and agricultural district. At this point the fertile and picturesque Capay Valley, opens into the broad Sacramento Valley. From Capay the line traverses the valley of this name, along Cache Creek, through the farming towns of Cadanassa (4), Tancred (4), Surrey (21/^) and Amaranth (1) to Guinda (%). Guinda is in a rich fruit and alfalfa territory. Beyond Guinda lies RUMSEY {'SV2), at the head of the Capay Valley and the end of the railroad. The surroundings are very pic- turesque. Cache Creek, the outlet of Clear Lake, emerges from the narrow gorge, some distance above Rumsey. (e) Woodland to Marysville From AVoodland a line of the Southern Pacific runs north- east through the towns of Pent (3) and Curtis (2) to KNIGHT'S LANDING (4), on the Sacramento River. This is one of the oldest towns in the Sacramento Valley and was founded some years before California became a state. The town is the center of several large reclamation projects. From Knight's Landing the route crosses the Sacramento river into SUTTER COUNTY. The area of this county is 608 square miles; the population in 1910 was 6,328. Situated in the center of the Sacramento Valley, the county is fertile and well watered. The county was named for General John A. Sutter, who received a Mexican grant in 1839 along the Feather River. Tlie chief industry is agriculture. Sutter County also has many vineyards, being the home of the famous Thompson seedless grape, now grown extensively in other parts of the state. Along the Sacramento river there are a number of prosperous farming and dairying centers, reached by excellent roads, the principal towns being Merid- ian, Verona, Kirksville, Cranmore and Kent. From the river the main route runs northeast through Vernon to Chandler, 11 miles from Knight's Landing. Thence 199 it continues to Marcus (21^^) and Tudor (4), in a grain and dairy region. Beyond Tudor, on the Feather River, is the old home of General Sutter, an interesting landmark. The railroad from Tudor continues through Oswald (4i/^) to Yuba City (41/2). YUBA CITY, on the Feather River, is the county seat of Sutter County. The population in 1910 was 1,160. There is a handsome hall of records, situated in a pretty park. From this modern little city the traveler crosses the Feather River into Marysville. From Yuba City a road leads westward to Meridian, on the Sacramento River, a route which is soon to be followed by an electric railroad line. On this route is Sutter City, with a population of 1,000, This point, situated at the base of the Sutter Buttes, is an excellent place from which to ascend these well-known eminences. They are sometimes known as the Marysville Buttes. These wonderful formations are the only elevations of note which break the surface of the great central valley of California. They are a group of isolated peaks, of remote volcanic origin, much eroded by the ele- ments. The main buttes, from the north to south, are North Butte, East Butte, South Butte and West Butte. They were seen and given the name "buttes'' by the French-Canadian voyager, Michael La Frambeau, who traversed this country in 1829 as an agent of the Hudson Bay Company. The view of the valley from the summit of this miniature mountain range, 2,000 feet above the sea-level, is at once unique and beautiful. From Sutter City the road continues to Meridian, a prosperous town of 500 population in a rich agricultural and dairy region. Northeast of here is the town of West Butte, reached by road from Sutter City. Marysville, reached from Yuba City, is described in the following route. 1 2. Sacramento to Marysville This route is a continuation of the trip up the Sacramento Valley by way of the Southern Pacific. Marysville may also be reached from Sacramento by the Western Pacific Railroad, whose route is described later (consult Table of Contents) and by the line of the Northern Electric Railway, which fol- lows practically the same route as the Western Pacific. From Sacramento the main line of the Southern Pacific runs 200 northeast across the American River through Elvas (3), Ben- ali (3) and Antelope (8) into Placer County, reaching Rose- ville (4). Placer County and the attractive town of Roseville are described later, as this part of the Shasta Route is iden- tical with the Ogden Route, leading eastward from Sacra- mento to the Nevada line (consult Table of Contents). T'he Shasta, Route diverges from Roseville, passing through Lin- coln (8) to Sheridan (3), in a prosperous farming locality. From Sheridan the main Southern Pacific line crosses the Bear River (old Rio Oso) into Yuba County, reaching Wheatland (SVs). YUBA COUNTY has an area of 639 square miles, extending from, the Feather River into the mountain region. The population in 1910 was 10,042. In the fertile val- ley lands farming, dairying and fruit-growing are carried on extensively; in the mountains the industries are mining, lumbering and stock-raising. The county ranks fourth in gold production. WHEATLAND, the first town entered after crossing Bear River, is the second town of the county, with a population of 481 in 1910. It is the center of a rich farming region. The largest hop fields in the world are near Wheatland, along the bottomx land of Bear River. Four thousand people are em- ployed here in the picking season. A road from Wheatland leads northeast through the small towns of Erie and Waldo into Nevada County. From Wheatland the railroad runs through Ostrom (6) to Marysville (6), MARYSVILLE, situated at the confluence of the Yuba and Feather Rivers, is one of California's historic cities. In the early days it became a distributing point for the gold mines. At that time large steamers could come up to MarysviUe with ease, but now it is difficult, owing to the shoaling of the riv- ers, caused by deposits of silt. In the fall of 1851, Joaquin Murieta, the notorious bandit chief, terrorized the region about MarysviUe by his depreda- tions. Among the residents of the city in the early days was William Walker, the noted filibusterer, who practiced law in MarysviUe for some time. His was a remarkable career. He led an expedition into Sonora, Mexico, in 1853; invaded Nic- aragua and became president of that country in 1856-7 and was shot in 1860 while trying to incite a revolution in Hon- duras. MarysviUe is a municipality of growing commercial and industrial interests. The population in 1910 was 5,430; in 1900 it was 3,497. The city is beautified by nine parks. Ellis Lake, covering 60 acres, is an attraction of considerable in- 201 lerest. The public library (costiug $75,000) has over 8,000 volumes. The levees surrounding the city protect it from freshets of the Yuba and Feather Rivers. These are con- ceded to be cimong the finest and strongest in America. Com- menced in 1875, the cost of building them was $1,000,000. There has never been a break. The crown of the levee is from 8 to 75 feet wide. The city is well supplied with railroad facilities. Besides the Southern Pacific, the main line of the Western Pacific reaches Marysville and runs thence to Oroville and the beau- tiful Feather River Canyon. This route is detailed in an- other portion of this work. The Northern Electric line reaches Marysville from Sacramento and runs north to Chico and Oroville. (Western Hotel, E. P. $1 up; United States Ho- tel, A. P. $1.25 to $2.50; E. P. 50 cents to $1.50.) Along the Yuba River above Marysville may be seen the extensive gold dredgers in operation, night and day. Ham- monton, with a population of 600, and Marigold, with a popu- lation of 100, are towns on the Yuba which are centers of this industry. Above these places on the same river is Smartsville, a mining town, from which a road leads northeast into Nevada County, reaching Nevada City and Grass Valley. Two side trips from Marysville which are of interest to touristfe are (a) Marysville to Oroville and (b) Marysville Into Sierra County. ( a ) Marysville to Oroville This trip may be made by the Southern Pacific or Western Pacific Railroads, both following the same general route. The Oroville branch of the Southern Pacific runs north from Marysville through Ramirez (8) and Combs (2) into Butte County at Honcut (2). A road runs northeast from here along Honcut Creek to Bangor (6) in Wyandotte Valley, a prosperous foothill orange region. Northwest of here is Wyandotte colony, another orange-growing region. From Honcut the railroad runs north through Hearst (6) to Palermo (1). About Palermo is one of the richest orange and olive sections in Northern California. The famous Mis- sion olives attain a high standard in this and other parts of Butte County. Butte County oranges reach the markets very early. From Palermo the route continues through Villa Verona (3) to Oroville (3). 202 OROVILLB, beautifully situated in the foothills on the Feather River, is the county seat of Butte County. (Union Hotel 9nd Annex, A. P. $2.50 to $3; E. P. 50 cents to $2.) Tlie population in 1910 was 3,859; it is now 6,000". Near here were some of the richest of the early placer mines, and the develop- ment of gold-dredging in this region has once more made Oroville important as a mining center. But the name Oro- ville, "gold town," is appropriate as well, because of the great shipments of golden oranges made annually from the city. The orange tree furnishes the principal ornamental shrub- bery, lining the streets of the city and growing in the gar- dens. The largest olive piciding and olive oil v/orks in the courxtry are at Oroville. Across the river from Oroville is THERMALITO, joined to the larger community by a great steel bridge. Here was planted in 1886 the first orange grove in Northern California. The first orange tree in this section, planted in 1851, may still be seen at Bidwell's Bar, east of Oroville, The Ther- malito region is a prosperous orange and olive district. Prom the elevation above the depot can be had a commanding view, with the Sierras and Table Mountain in the background. A stage road (excellent for automobiles) extends east- ward from Oroville into the mountains, reaching som,e of Cal-r ifornia's finest scenery. The route lies through Hurleton and Enterprise to Mooretown (26 miles). (Guides at the hotel.) Near here, at the junction of Fall River and the middle fork of the Feather River is a region of wonderful beauty. At this point a remarkable granite cone. Bald Rock, rises almost per- pendicularly for 2,000 feet above the water. The canyon of the middle fork for six miles above here presents grand and rugged scenery. The great falls on the Fall River, are half a mile above the junction with the Feather River. Here the Fall River makes a sheer drop of 471 feet. This entire moun- tain region has many beautiful waterfalls, cascades, deep-cut canyons and rugged peaks, making it one of the most pictur- esque in the Sierras. Oroville is the gateway to the upper Feather River Canyon, a scenic region, reached by the line of the Western Pacific, described in a later portion of this work. (b) Marysville Into Sierra County A stage road leads from Marysville northeast to Brown's Valley, a stock, dairying, fruit and farming center. In this 203 region is one of the oldest irrigation systems in the state. From here the road continues through the picturesque Oregon Hills to Camptonville, a mining and stock-raising center, 50 miles from Marysville. I'he road continhes thence into SIERRA COUNTY. The area of this mountain county is 923 square miles; the population in 1910 was 4,098. The prin- cipal industry still is gold mining, over $190,000,000 having been taken from Sierra County mines and river beds since 1849. One of the old mining regions made famous by Bret Harte, reached from Marysville, is described at the end of this section. Lumbering, and farming in the Sierra Valley, in the eastern section, are important industries of Sierra County. From Camptonville, the main stage line reaches Mountain House (13 miles), whence a side road extends to Forest and Alleghany, both mining towns. The main route continues north to Goodyear's Bar (5) the locale of some of Bret Harte's stories, and thence northeast to Downieville (4). DOWNIEVILLE, the county seat, is a picturesque town, situated at the juncture of the north and south forks of the Yuba River. (St. Charles Hotel, $1.) On all sides are tree- covered mountains. The residence section is situated on the south side of the river. The business section with its one narrow street is a quaint reminder of the old mining days. Downieville was founded in 1849 and is one of the oldest mountain towns in the state. In the time of the gold rush up the Yuba River, in 1852, the population was 5,000. In 1910 the population of the township was 751. At Durgan Flat, within the present town limits, $5,000,000 in gold was taken out in the early days. Downieville is growing in popularity as a summer resort. From Downieville the main stage road continues northeast along the Yuba River to SIERRA CITY (13). The population is 350. (Mackay's Hotel, A. P. $2.) This old mining town was founded in 1850, and the rich Sierra Buttes mine is still worked. North of Sierra City rises Sierra Buttes Peak, the highest point in Sierra County. The loftiest pinnacle of this double peak rises 8,600 feet above sea-level. From the sum- mit a wonderful view may be had of the Sierra and its lakes; in the distance, to the west, the Sacramento River and to the east the sage-brush plains of Nevada. The Lake Region of Sierra County lies to the north of this peak, and from Sierra City is a road leading northwest through this district. Another point of departure is Bassett's (see below). In the lake region, justly termed the fisher- 204 man's paradise, are 27 lakes of various sizes, all within a half- day's walk of each other. These lakes are very deep, their basins ground out of solid rock by glacial action. Those eas- iest to reach are the Sardine Lakes, the Salmon Lakes, Squaw Lake, Gold Lake; the latter is the largest. Some miles be- yond, in Plumas County, is Long Lake, another of consider- able size. The beauty of this part of the Sierras invites a visit from the tourist as well as the sportsman. From Sierra City the main road runs northeast to Bas- sett's (5). TMs is a popular summer resort situated in the high Sierras at the headwaters of the north fork of the Yuba River. It is known for the hunting and fishing in its neighborhood; from it the lake region is easily reached. From Bassett's the route runs through the Yuba Gap, where the road makes many sharp turns. About here is the great timber belt of Sierra County. The road passes through Sattley (whence a branch road leads to Loyalton), to Sierra- ville (22), in the southern end of Sierra Valley. The Sierra Valley is the longest and most elevated of the valleys of the mountains, being 4,750 feet above sea level. There is much excellent farming land; stock-raising and dairying are con- siderable industries here. The valley is 30 miles long and 10 miles wide and has a level floor, extending northward some distance into Plumas County. One mile from Sierra- ville are the Campbell Hot Sulphur Springs, from which a beautiful view of the valley is had. From here the route ex- tends southeast to Truckee, where the traveler reaches the Southern Pacific Railroad; this portion of the state is de- scribed in the route, Sacramento to Truckee and Nevada Line. T'ruckee is the point of departure for Lake Tahoe. A part of Sierra County which is interesting, though off the beaten path, is reached from Marysville by way of Forbes- town and Strawberry Valley. From Strawberry Valley the stage road runs northeast into Sierra County and into one of the oldest mining regions of California. The little settle- ments of Scales, Port Wine, St. Louis, Tablerock and Gibson- ville are passed en the way into Plumas County. Most of these are still maintained by mining. From Tablerock is reached Poker Flat, on Canyon Creek, famous as the setting of Bret Harte's story, "The Outcasts of Poker Flat." Deadwood is south of Poker Flat; near by are the Vv^indow Rock (a cave in the hillside), and Deadwood Peak. Saddleback Mountain (6,760 feet) is the principal peak in this region. West of Gibsonville is Whisky Diggings, another town which added color 10 Bret Harte's tales of early days. Brandy, south of Scales, is a mining camp with a name reminiscent of the "days of old." 1 3. Marysville to Redding This route is a continuation of the journey up the Sacra- mento Valley. From Marysville the Southern Pacific line crosses the Breather River above Yuba City and runs through Berg (4) and Lomo (3) to Live Oak (3), a growing commun- ity with about 500 inhabitants. To the west rise the Sutter Buttes, which may be reached from here by way of Penning- ton, but better from Sutter City (see Route 3 2). From Live Oak the main Southern Pacific line enters Butte County, extending to Gridley (6i^). BUTTE COUNTY has an area of 1,722 square miles, with a varied land surface^ running from Sacramento Valley through foothills into the mountains. The agricultural products are numerous. In the foothill region are grown oranges and olives, while on the plains great rice fields are being planted, promising to rival the acreage in grain and alfalfa. Deciduous fruits of every kind flourish in Butte County, and dairying is an important industry. Butte is also the largest gold-producing county of California, the chief gold-dredging field lying around Oro- ville. GRIDLEY is a prosperous farming town, with a popula- tion in 1910 of 987. (Gridley Hotel, E. P. 75 cents up.) From here the line runs to Biggs (3), another flourishing agricul- tural center, with a population of 403 in" 1910. (Hotel Colonia, $2.) From Biggs it continues northwest through Richvale (6), Nelson (4) and Durham (7) to Chico (6). CHICO (pronounced Chee-ko) is a rapidly growing city credited by the census of 1910 with a population of 3,750, but claiming now over 10,000. (Hotel Auditorium, E. P. $1; Hotel Diamond, E. P. $1 up; Park Hotel, $2.50.) The city was founded in 1850 by General Bidwell, who established the great Bidwell fruit ranch adjoining. In Chico is situated one of the state's large normal schools. One of the finest municipal parks in the world is owned by the municipality; it contains 1,900 acres and reaches to the center of the city. Three miles from Chico is the LTnited States government experimental farm of 100 acres. The great factory of the Diamond Match Company, employing 1,500 m'en, is situated at Barber, a southern suburb of Chico. The giant Hooker Oak, near the city, is declared to be the largest oak in the world by Sir Joseph Hooker, the scientist, and Gifford Pinchot, the well- known conservationist. 206 There are a number of pleasant side trips in the vicinity of Chico which well repay the traveler. In the foothills there is picturesque scenery. An excellent automobile road runs northeast from Chico to Richardson Mineral Springs, ten miles distant. (See advertising pages.) The springs are also reached by stage running every afternoon (except Sunday) from Chico. Richardson Springs are situated in a sheltered spot in Mud Creek Canyon; the hotel is open the entire year (rates, $12 to $14 per week). There are also facilities for camping out. The waters are of acknowledged curative properties; the springs are numerous and contain a variety of mineral substances in solution. The region about here contains much of interest. Good trails lead to Fern Canyon, Buzzard's Roost, the Arrow Point, Flag Point (the highest in these hills) and North Hill. From the heights are sweep- ing views over the Sacramento Valley. The so-called "Hole in the Rock," used by the Indians as a lookout post, is near here; the mortars employed by the aborigines in grinding their corn are formed out of the solid rock; there are also remarkable overhanging rocks at this point. The Falls of Corizanthus, making a plunge of 100' feet over the ledge into the gorge below, are in Mud Creek Canyon, one-half mile from Richardson Springs. Other interesting journeys can be made over the lines of the Northern Pacific Railway; one branch runs west across the Sacramento River to Hamilton, in Glenn County; an- other line extends southward to Oroville and Marysville. The Butte County Railroad runs northeast from Chico through the towns of Paradise (14), Magalia (5) and Appleton (3) to Sterling City (9). Roads from Chico lead into the Sierras, reaching Lassen Buttes and the Big Meadow resorts, described in other portions of this book (consult index). The main line of the Southern Pacific runs from Chico northward through Nord (7), to Vina (12), in TEHAMA COUNTY. This county has an area of 2,893 square miles, the population in 1910 being 11,401. The principal industries are horticulture, stock raising and lumbering. The head of navi- gation on the Sacramento River is Red Bluff, the county seat. The mountains of Tehama are lofty and rugged. The Sierras rise on' the east, while to the west are the Yalla Balla Mountains, the highest of the Coast Ranges. A num- ber of attractive resorts are located in the county. TTiere is excellent hunting for deer, bear and California lions, as well as smaller game. Salmon and other food fish are caught in the Sacramento River and trout in the tributary streams. The county roads are well adapted tb automobiling. 207 VINA is on the Stanford University Farm, in a rich sec- tion. There is a large winery located here. To the west, in the Sierras, is Camel Mound, a strafigely-shaped eminence. From Vina the route continues through Ensign (4) and Sesma (3i/^) across the Sacramento and to Tehama (1). TEHAMA had a population of 221 in 1910. It is the junc- ture of the Southern Pacific lines running up to this point on either side of the river. (Tait House. $1.50.) A fine railroad bridge spans the Sacramento at this point. Across the river is the new and growing town of Los Molinos, in the fertile colony of the same name. Dairying and raising alfalfa and fruit are the chief industries of this region. TTie roads are good and a new state highway is partly completed, running to Eureka, Humboldt County. At Tehama the line of the Southern Pacific running through the western side of the Sacramento Valley joins the line of the Shasta Route; the region traversed by this railroad is described later in the route, Woodland to Red Bluff. From Tehama the main line runs northwest through Pro- berta (21/2) and Rawson (3), to Red Bluff (4i^). RED BLUFF, the county seat and principal city of Te- hama County, has a population of about 4,000. In 1910 it had 3,530 people. It is a place of considerable commercial im- portance, being the head of navigation on the Sacramento River. The city is splendidly situated on a bluff overlooking the river. (TYemont Hotel, $2 to $3.) This thriving com- munity has many attractions for the visitor. The public buildings include a handsome new free library. There are considerable manufactures carried on in Red Bluff and the city is growing industrially. It is one of the centers of the lumber industry of Northern California. The farming country tributary to the city is exceedingly fertile. From Red Bluff roads extend in several directions. One to the southwest leads to the towns of Redbank and Lowrey. Beyond these places are Colyear Springs, in the mountains. This is a popular summer resort, situated near Tom's Head, (6,775), a picturesque peak in the Yalla Balla Range. To the southwest is Mount Linn (8,604) and to the northeast is Yalla Balla Mountain (9,000). Another road from Red Bluff runs west through Blossom and Hunter, and thence northwest through Rosewood to Bee- gum Peak. Here the road enters Shasta County, running through Harrison Gulch (Knob) and thence into TVinity 208 County. A road to the north from Red Bluff runs through Bend, the strawberry-growing center, and Jelly, across Battle Creek into Shasta County, and on to Balls Ferry, at which place is the great government fish hatchery. Still another road from Red Bluff which offers varied scenery along the route leads northeast to Payne's Creek. Near this road, nine miles from the city, are the well- known Tuscan Springs (see advertising pages). The springs are reached by a stage running daily (except Sunday) from Red Bluff; the latter part of the road winds through a pic- turesque gorge worn by the waters through the rim of the ancient crater in which the springs are situated. This is the only place in which the volcanic crater, extinct for from 10,000 to 50,000 years, has been broken. The springs are situated at an elevation of 1,000 feet above sea-level; the cli- mate is excellent, with no snow in winter. The hotel is open throughout the year (rates, $12 per week and up). There are fifty springs here, with a large variety of minerals in solution; among these are lithia, iodine, soda and potassa. Farther to the northeast is the town of Payne's Creek, where the road branches. The south fork leads through Bell Mill to Lyonsville, in the lumber region. The main road continues through Mineral to Morgan Springs, at the foot of Mount Lassen (10,437 feet). This place is a favorite summer camp- ing ground. Both hot and cold springs abound in this region. From Morgan the road crosses into Plumas County through the Big Meadow district, described in another part of this TDOOk (see index). From Red Bluff the Southern Pacific line extends through Blunt (51/4) and Hooker (4i^) to Cottonwood (6i/^) in Shasta County. SHASTA COUNTY has an area of 3,858 square miles. The population in 1910 was 18,920. Farming and fruit-growing are the great industries in the valley land. In mineral wealth the county is ranked first in California, leading in copper and silver and being well up in gold production. The Sierras in the east and the Coast Range in the west lend Shasta much scenic beauty; the Coast Range is here especially rugged. TTie picturesque Canyon of the Sacramento in the north is dotted with pleasure resorts. The hunting and fish- ing in the mountains are unsurpassed. There are numerous mineral springs, especially in the eastern part of the county. Shasta County is also noted for the number and beauty of its streams and rivers. 209 COTTONWOOD is a growing town of 600 population, situated in an orchard and stock country. It is also the ship- ping point of a considerable lumber district. From Cotton- wood a road leads west along Cottonwood Creek to Gas Point. From Cottonwood the main route extends to ANDERSON, the 'great fruit center of the county. This prosperous town has a population of 1,500. (Oriental Hotel, $2.) Anderson is the terminus of the Anderson and Bella Vista Railroad, and is the chief center of the lumber industry. TTiis rail- way line runs northeast to the town of Bella Vista (17 miles), through a picturesque country. From Anderson a road leads northwest through Olinda and Oak to Igo (see later). Another road runs northeast to Millville. The main route continues from Anderson through (jirvan (6 miles) to Red- ding (6 miles). REDDING, the county seat of Shasta County, has a popu- lation of about 5,000; the figures given by the 1910 census were 3,572. The city is beautifully located at the head of the Sacramento Valley. (Golden Eagle Hotel, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Lorenz, A. P. $1.50 up, E. P. 50 cents up; Hotel Redding, E. P.) To the east rise the Sierra Nevadas; to the west the Coast Range, while Mount Shasta is seen to the north. The river bounds the city on the north and east. Redding is the nat- ural shipping center of an immense fruit-growing, farming and mining district. It is the chief shipping point for Te- hama as well as Shasta County. Tlie city has a promising commercial future. The public buildings are numerous and attractive. The Shasta County court house and the hall of records are situated near the center of the city in a large square, surrounded by palms and orange trees. The city hall and the large high school are both substantial buildings. The Public Library is situated in a pretty park. From Redding there are a number of roads diverging into the mountainous districts upon eitlier side of the valley. One of these, running eastward to the country about Lassen Peak is described in Section a under this route. Another leading westward over the Shasta-Trinity Divide to Weaverville is described in Section b under this route. A road extending through the southeastern part of Shasta County reaches an interesting and picturesque region. It passes through Larkin to Igo and Ono, old towns situated in the "thermal belt," and surrounded by thriving orange or- chards. About here is a rich placer mining territory. From Ono the road runs to Harrison Gulch (Knob). Here is sit- uated the Midas mine, a heavy producer of gold ore. From 210 Harrison Gulch the road passes into T'ehama County. The mountain range traversed along this route is the Bully Choop Range, the main peaks being, from north to south, Mount Bally, Bully Choop Mountain and Chanchelulla Moun- tain. These are among the loftiest in the Coast Ranges. ( a ) Redding to Lassen Peak Prom Redding the road leading eastward crosses the line of the Andrews and Bella Vista Railroad and extends through Palo Cedro to Millville, in a stock-raising country. From here a road runs south to Balls Ferry, at the juncture of Battle Creek with the Sacramento River. Here is the great fish hatchery operated by the United States government. The streams of many regions abroad have been stocked with game trout from this hatchery. About six miles v/est of Balls Ferry is the town of Anderson (see above). All of this region is popular with campers and pleasure seekers. From Balls Ferry the road continues northeast to Inwood and Shingletown, in the lumbering region, and thence through Plateau to Viola, situated at the base of Lassen Peak (often pronounced Lawsen). Lassen Peak (10,577 feet), is an extinct volcano. The sides of the mountain are timbered two-thirds of the way up. This is the loftiest Peak in this part of the Sierras. It was named after Peter Lassen, an early settler. Hot and boil- ing springs abound in the vicinity of Lassen Peak. North of Lassen Peak the mountains are high and rugged, the prin- cipal peaks being Latour Butte, Lookout Mountain, Crater Peak (8,724), Burney Butte (7,880), and Bald Mountain. Cra- ter Peak is an extinct volcano. From Millville a road runs northeast to Whitmore in the hop-raising section, thence north to Fern, where it ends. Another road from Millville leads farther to the north, through Oak Run to Round Mountain and Montgomery Creek. Here the road branches, one road running north through Pine- land and Wengler to Elena, on the Pitt River. This beautiful river is said to have received its name from the Indians who once lived on its banks, called the "Pit" Indians, because they trapped their game by means of covered-over pits. TTie Pitt River region is popular with tourists and pleasure-seekers. The main road from Montgomery Creek leads to Burney, at the base of Burney Butte. A side road leads north from here along Burney Creek, across the Pitt River to the town of Cayton. From Burney the main route runs northeast, 211 through Cassel and Carbon, in the fertile Hat Creek farming district, thence across the Pitt River to the town of Fall River. At this point the Fall River, one of the most pictur- esque in California, joins the Pitt River. The river received its name from the number of falls and rapids along its course. From the town of Fall River a road follows the valley of the river through Glenburn to Dana. The main road con* tinues from Fall River through McArthur to Pittville in Las- sen County, just over the county line. ( b ) Redding to Weaverville Tlie stage road to Weaverville offers unexcelled scenery; half of the year an auto stage is run over this route in ad- dition to the regular stage. The route runs first to Shasta, the old county seat of Shasta County; the houses are strongly built, with heavy shutters and doors, being constructed orig- inally as a protection against the raids of Indians. From here the road extends through Stella and Fi-ench Gulch; this ter- ritory is old gold-mining country, worked in the "days of '49." From French Gulch the Redding-Weaverville road enters T'l^nity County, reaching Deadwood. TRINITY COUNTY has an area of 3,166 square miles and had a population of 3,301 in 1910. The sparse settlement is due to lack of transporta- tion facilities, there being no railroad in the county. The principal industry for fifty years has been mining. Hy- draulic placer, drift placer, dredge and quartz mining are all carried on in the county and the various processes in ex- tracting the gold are of great interest to travelers. Farming and fruit-growing are developing industries in the southern part of Trinity County. Tlie scenic attractions are many and varied. Most of the territory is mountainous, the main ranges being the Trinity Mountains, the Scott Mountains and Salmon Alps, all to the north, the Yalla Balla Mountains in the east and the South Fork Mountains in the west. The principal rivers are the Trinity, Mad, Eel and Van Duzen. Tlie county received its name from the Trinity River. From Deadwood the stage road runs to LEWISTON. Near here is Paulsen Grange, one of the large ranches of Trinity County; accommodations for travelers may be had here. From Lewiston the main stage road crosses a fork of the Trinity River and reaches WEAVERVILLE, the county seat and principal town. (Union Hotel, $2; New York Hotel, $2.) The population of Weaverville township in 1910 was 674. To 212 the west of here are the Oregon Mountains; one of the most prominent mountains of this range is the Weaver Butte. Weaverville is the center from which radiate roads to various parts of Trinity County. One road runs west to Junction City, Canyon Creek, North Fork and East Fork; an- other runs southward to Douglas City, Hay Forli, Wild- wood and the State Highway; the latter connected with roads from Red Bluff and Redding. Another road reaches Trinity Center, whence are reached French Gulch and Delta (by a toll road) ; from Trinity Center also roads run northwest to Carrville and Coffee Creek and southwest to Minersville. There are two roads from Weaveryille to Lewiston. There are a number of other routes which make outlying sections of the county accessible. A good trail on a wagon road grade is being constructed down the Trinity River into Humboldt County. This will af- ford the tourist on foot or horseback the entrance into an extremely picturesque mountain region. 1 4. Redding to Oregon Line This route embraces the conclusion of the trip up the Sacramento Valley and includes some of the finest mountain scenery of the state; for many miles upon this journey the towering form of Mount Shasta dominates the landscape. From Redding the line of the Southern Pacific railroad runs northward through the narrowing Sacramento Canyon. After passing Middle Creek (3) the traveler reaches Keswick (2). From here the Iron Mountain Railroad runs northwest through the stations of Lone Tree and Minnesota to Iron Mountain (11 miles) over a picturesque route. The main route continues from Keswick through Copley (4) to Coram (4), a town of about 1,000 population, situated in the copper producing region. From here the line runs to KENNETT (4), the center of the great copper industry. Since its incep- tion in 1896, this industry has grown enormously. Shasta County leads the state in the production of copper. The Moth Copper Company's smelter at Kennett is the largest in operation in California. The output is 40,000,000 pounds per year, valued at $5,50'0,000. Near here, four miles west of 213 Kenuett, is a mountain of pure limestone, the production of lime being large. The Pitt River enters the Sacramento a few miles north of Kennett. From Kennett the railroad leads to Pitt (2), from which place the Sacramento Valley and Eastern Railroad traverses the copper belt to Bully Hill, a distance of 15 miles. The road runs through Heroult (5), at which place is located the Noble electric iron plant, the only electric iron producer in this country. From here the line extends through Copper City (3) to Delamar (6), where there is a large copper plant, and thence to Bully Hill (1). The scenery along this line is impressive. At Baird, on the McCloud River, a short distance north of Pitt, is the United States Fish Hatchery. The Mc- Cloud River, rising at the base of Mount Shasta, is much sought by summer campers, as it flows through a valley of great scenic beauty. Upon its banks are many country homes of wealthy Californians. From Pitt the main road continues through Elmore (4) to Antler (7) and thence through Delta (5V2), La Moine (3i/4) and Gibson (3) to Sims (3), or Hazel Creek. There are a great many summer and health resorts along the Sacramento in this region. From Sims the line runs through Conant (4), Castella (2) and Castle Rock (1) to Castle Crag (2). These places are at the base of the picturesque Castle Crags. These peaks, of volcanic origin, are famous among California's scenic beauties. There is a trail up the almost sheer wall of the mountains from Castle Crags Farm and the ascent, though fatiguing, is rendered worth while because of the majestic grandeur of the surrounding scenery. From the sum- mit there is an outlook over miles of mountain and valley. Mount Shasta occupies the foreground to the north, while other peaks which can be made out are Mount Lassen, Mount Eddy, Black Butte and Eagle Peak. In the canyon below are forests of Norwegian pine, yellow and sugar pine and fir. The Sacramento River here is a rushing stream which affords fine fishing. At the point where the picturesque Soda Creek joins the river is situated Castle Crags Farm, a leading sum- mer resort. From here the crags may be reached by the trail on horseback. Only the hardiest should make the climb on foot. The topmost pinnacles of Castle Crags are almost perpendicular; these impressive ramparts flank the valley for some miles. From Castle Crag station the route enters Siskiyou county, reaching Dunsmuir (4). 214 SISKIYOU COUNTY, one of the extreme northern divi- sions of California, is larger than some of the Eastern states in area. Tlie county contains 6,256 square miles, about five- sixths of which is mountainous, the remainder being valley land. The mountain scenery draws many summer campers and tourists to Siskiyou. To the east tower the mighty peaks of the Sierra, with Mount Shasta (14,444 feet) rising above the range. The Trinity and Scott Mountains are in the south- west, the Siskiyou Mountains in the north and northwest, and the Salmon Mountains in the west. All of these ranges are joined by spurs, so that the central valley of Siskiyou County is completely surrounded by peaks and high mountain ridges. Though one of the most sparsely settled regions in the state (population in 1910, 18,801), Siskiyou is one of the oldest in point of history and one of the richest as regards natural opportunities. It was the scene of mining excitement in the early 50's, especially about Yreka, and mines are still worked throughout the county. Lumbering, stock-raising and agriculture are now far more productive than mining, how- ever, and are destined to become more important as the mil- lions of acres of pasture, farming and timber land in Siskiyou are developed. For the sportsman, Siskiyou offers unexcelled opportunities for angling and big-game hunting. The streams are filled with great steelhead trout, mountain trout, rainbow trout. Eastern brook trout and also salmon in the spawning season. Mountain sheep, muledeer, black-tail deer, white-tail deer, bear and smaller anim.als abound in the woods and mountains; quail, doves, ducks and geese add to the variety of game. DUNSMUIR, the first town entered from the south, is the largest community in Siskiyou County, having a population of 2,700. (Hotel Weed, E. P.) It has grown rapidly, partially due to the fact that it is the headquarters of the Shasta Divi- sion of the Southern Pacific Railroad. The elevation at Duns- muir is 2,300 feet. Going north, the train constantly ascends, the grade in some places being among the most difficult in the country. The pine-clad hills rising on either side make the ascent very picturesque. Beside the railroad track run the headwaters of the Sacramento River, and the scenery of the canyon is varied by rapids and waterfalls. Most notable of these are the beautiful Mossbrae Falls, near Shasta Springs. From Dunsmuir the route passes through Upper Soda Springs (1) and Shasta Retreat (1), both popular summer resorts, to SHASTA SPRINGS (1). The springs are situated 215 near the railroad track. The well-known Shasta water is bot- tled and shipped from here. A scenic railway takes visitors from the station through the pine woods and beside running creeks and cascades to the Shasta Springs Hotel, situated on the plateau above. From Shasta Springs a fifty-mile private automobile boulevard has recently been constructed to the McCloud River; the journey over this road is one of inde- scribable beauty, with Mount Shasta in sight most of the way. There are numerous other drives about Shasta Springs which invite the motorist. From here the railroad continues throrgh Cantara (2) and Mott (4) to Sisson (6). SISSON is a town of about 750 people, at the foot of Mount Shasta. It is a center of the lumber- ing industry. A point of interest is the State Fish Hatchery, which raises millions of fish each year, principally trout, and with them stocks the rivers and streams of California. This fish hatchery, which is open to the public, is the largest in the world. The Sisson Tavern ($2.50 up) and three other hotels furnish accommodations for tourists. A side trip of great charm is made from here to McCloud, on the river of the same name. A branch railroad runs to the town, which is a typical lumber camp, owned by a company which employs 1,700 men; the yearly cut of lumber of this concern is over 50,000,000 feet. Along the McCloud there are many summer homes. Mount Shasta, usually ascended from Sisson, is practi- cally a single cone of an extinct volcano. A road runs from Sisson to the timber line, whence the ascent is made by trail. It is the usual custom to camp for the night at the timber line, thus making the climb to the summit and return in one day. Guides for the trip can be secured at the hotels; the ascent is not especially difficult. From the summit of Mount Shasta (14,444 feet above sea-level), there is one of the most magnifi- cent views to be had anywhere, both in extent and variety of scenery. At the top of the mountain there are many evi- dences of the volcanic origin of the peak; steam still emerges from the higher crevices and molten sulphur bubbles out near the summit. There are also remarkable lava caves, caused by the cooling of the outer crust of the lava, while the molten core flowed out; some of these caves, or lava tubes, are very extensive, one being three-quarters of a mile long. On the eastern and northeastern slopes are two glaciers, the Whitney and McCloud. There is always snow around the summit of the mountain, though at some seasons it almost disappears. 216 From Sisson the railroad continues northward through Up- ton (2), Dietz (3) and Igerna (4) to WEED (2). This town, with a population of 1,500, is a great lumber center. Most of the inhabitants are employed in the sawmill and the sash and door factory — one of the largest concerns of this kind in the country. A branch line leads from Weed to Klam- ath Falls, Oregon. This road traverses the Butte Valley and goes through the growing towns of McDoel and Dorris, centers of the Dunkard colony in this region. From Weed the main route descends steadily into the Shasta Valley, running through Edgewood (5), a dairying center, and Gazelle (8), whence thousands of cattle are shipped annually, to MON- TAGUE. This town of 500 people is situated in a rich farming region. East of Montague is a small but fertile valley, hidden by the barren hillocks, reached by wagon road. It is the Little Shasta Valley, and is peopled by thriving and enlightened ranchers. On the eastern end of this valley, is Table Rock, once the scene of Indian ceremonies, and near which are found mineral springs. From Montague is made a short side trip to Yreka, the county seat of Siskiyou County. This region is well worth visiting, containing some of the most characteristic country of Northern California. The branch railway from Montague leads northwest to Yreka, 7 miles distant. YREKA is a thriving town of 2,500 inhabitants. It is mod- ern in every respect, with ample hotel accommodations. Franco-American Hotel, A. P. $1.50 to $2.50, E. P. $1 to $1.50; Clarendon House, $2.) The county court house and hall of records are handsome buildings. The town was founded dur- ing the mining excitement, when gold was discovered here and in the hills surrounding. Many became rich in this district through mining, but the yellow metal was quickly extracted, and all that remains to commemorate the "days of old, and the days of gold" in Yreka is an irregularity given to the land for acres outside the city limits, where mounds of upturned earth, now smoothed down by the wind and weather, show where the hard-fisted miners' claims were staked. However, there are still a few mines about Yreka, and a great many in the in- terior of the country. Yreka was in the region of the Modoc war, and relics of those early conflicts are still kept by old- timers living at Yreka and in other parts of the county. Many of the early inhabitants remember the fact that it was in this county that Joaquin Miller, the poet, spent several years of rough Western life as a miner, rancher and lawyer. 217 Beyond Yreka lies the Scott Valley, an important farming region of 150,000 acres. This country is reached by stage just as in the days of '49; an automobile line also runs from Yreka southwest 18 miles to Fort Jones (500 population) and to Etna (900 population), 12 miles south of Fort Jones, and in the cen- ter of a beautiful valley, bounded on all sides by pine-covered mountains. There are a number of smaller settlements in this region, among them Greenview, Callahan's, Scott's Bar, Ham- burg, Hajipy Camp, and Sawyer's Bar. T'he last four are min- ing camps. The western half of the county, bordering upon Del Norte and Humboldt, is very mountainous. Lumbering and mining are the industries of this part of the county. From Montague the main line of the Southern Pacific runs to Ager (11), whence a road runs to Klamath Springs, a popu- lar resort. (Klamath Springs Hotel, $2 and $3 per day.) The distance by the stage and automobile road is 20 miles. 7 miles of which are along the banks of the picturesque Klamath River. The railroad continues through Thrall (2) and Klamathon (2) to Hornbrook (3), with a population of 350. From here the line passes through Hiit (9) into Oregon, reaching Colestin (7). Beyond here is Ashland (20), from which the traveler reaches Portland. 1 5. Woodland to Red Bluff The journey from Woodland along the western side of the Sacramento Valley includes a visit to some of the richest agricultural land in California. From Woodland the Southern Pacific Railroad runs northwest to the town of Yolo (4%). YOLO was once the county seat of Yolo County. It is situated on Cache Creek, in the heart of a fertile fruit district. The Yolo orchard, adjoining the town, is one of the largest in the state. From Yolo the route extends through Ronda (4), Zamora (2) and Brentona (2) to Dunnigan i^Vz). These towns are all farming centers; grain, hay and grapes being produced in this section. From Dunnigan the line runs into Colusa County at Hershey (3). COLUSA COUNTY has an area of 1,140 square miles, with a population of 7,732. It lies in the very heart of the fertile Sacramento Valley, its principal industries being agricultural. In the western part of the county, whioh is mountainous, with some productive valleys intervening, grazing and mining are 218 carried on. The county derived its name from an Indian tribe, the Colusa or Colusi, which formerly occupied the west bank of the Sacramento. The railroad route extends from Hershey through Harring- ton (2) to Arbuckle (5). (Hotel Ash, $2 up; Strickler House, $2.) The county road, the principal automobile route, runs from near Hershey northward to the town of College City and thence west to Arbuckle (3%). From this point northward, the road follows the general course of the railway. From Ar- buckle the route runs through Genevra (Berlin, 4) and Macy (1) to Williams (5i^). WILLIAMS, a considerable farming center, is the point at which roads diverge to the east and west, connecting the trib- utary region with the railroad. (Williams Hotel, $2.) The east road runs to Colusa, the county seat. The west road ex- tends to Venado, whence the roads reach into the mountain regions. One route runs southwest to Sulphur Creek, where there are small gold and quicksilver mines. The northwest road runs to the town of Leesville, where roads diverge into Glenn and Lake Counties. A pleasant side trip from Williams is by stage to Wilbur Springs, situated 25 miles west of the town. During the summer months an automobile service is also run to the springs. (Rates, $14 and $16 per week; see ad- vertising pages.) The springs are situated in the Coast Range at an elevation of 1,250 feet above sea-level; the waters are of recognized medicinal qualities. Among them are hot sul- phur, cold black sulphur, cold white sulphur, magnesia and warm salt water springs. There are a number of popular re- sorts in the western portion of Colusa County, in the Coast Range. From Williams the main route runs to Colusa Junction, where the Southern Pacific crosses the small Colusa and Lake Railroad. This line begins at Sites, where two large quarries take out the stone known as the Colusa sandstone, which is famous in California for building purposes. Many of the large buildings in San Francisco have been constructed from Colusa sandstone. From Sites the railroad runs southeast through Mills (41^), Fair view (2), Lurline (2i^) to Colusa Junction (3). Continuing west, the line extends to Colusa. COLUSA, the county seat, is situated on the Sacramento River. (Hotel Riverside, $2.) The population in 1910 was 1,582. It has considerable river trade and is the center of the roads which extend along the river north and south, in the rich farming and daii:y region. The southern road runs through the towns of Sycamore, Grimes and Grand Island into 219 Sutter County, at Cranmore. The road- leading north extends to the town of Princeton, in the northeast corner of the county. The main route continues north from Colusa Junction through Maxwell (4) to Delavan (5) and thence to Norman (5). About two miles north of Delavan the railroad enters GLENN COUNTY. Glenn County has an area of 1,258 square miles, almost evenly divided between valley and mountain. The population of the county in 1910 was 7,172; in 1900 it was 5,150. The county was named for Dr. Hugh J. G'enn, an early wheat-baron, who at one time owned a ranch of 46,G'00 acres here. The wheat-growing era has almost passed away, and now more diversified agriculture is the rule. The valley country lying along the Sacramento is exceedingly fertile, and in this county are several very large irrigating projects. In the foothills and mountains there is excellent hunting in season, deer, squirrels, quail and other game abounding; and wild geese and ducks are killed by hundreds from the middle of November to the first of March. Tliere is trout fishing in the mountain streams and a large number of food fishes are caught in the Sacramento River. The county roads, espe- cially in the valley districts, are in good repair. Norman, 5 miles north of Delavan, is the first town reached after crossing the county line. Thence the lines of travel extend almost due north through the county. From Norman they pass by Logandale to Willows (8). WILLOWS, the county seat, is a rapidly growing town. (The Crawford, E. P. 75 cents up.) The population in 1910 was 1,139, but it is said to have increased to 3,500 in three years. Besides being the seat of the county government, Willows has one of the county's high schools, and a growing business section. From Willows a branch line of the Southern Pacific leads westward through Losac to Fruto, in the foothill orchard region. Elk Creek, the center of another rich region, lies northwest of Fruto, and is reached by road. The main lines extend north from Willows, through the small town of Lyman to Germantown (7), a place of about 200 pop- ulation. Greenwood, another small town, lies six miles north from Germantown and three miles further on is Orland. ORLAND, the second town of the county, had a population of 836 in 1910, but its growth of late has been rapid, and it now has 1,300 people. It has a county high school, and the grammar school building is one of the finest north of Sacra- mento. The surrounding country is embraced in one of the largest irrigation projects in the West, the national govern- ment having established here a model irrigation system to 220 prove what can be done by irrigation under the best condi- tions of soil and climate. The system covers 14,000 acres of fertile land in this vicinity. Prom Orland a branch line of the Southern Pacific reaches HAMILTON, a prosperous agricultural town on the west bank of the Sacramento River. (Shotover Inn, $2.50 up.) Hamilton has a large beet-sugar factory; the population is 500. The town is the uerminus of the Orland branch of the Southern Pacific and the northern end of the Northern Elec- tric railway system. North from Orland the lines lead through Wyo (1) into Tehama County and to Kirkwood (7). From here the route continues to Corning (6*). CORNING, the second town of Tehama County, had a pop- ulation of 1572 in 1910. It is the center of a fertile orchard section. This is one of the chief olive-growing areas of Cal- ifornia; the manufacture of olive oil is an important indus- try, and the processes are interesting to tourists. Oranges are grown extensively in this region. Corning is the center of the Maywood Colony. (Hotel Maywood.) From here a road leads southwest to Henleyville and thence southwest along Thones Creek to Flournoy and Paskenta. From Corning the main route continues through Richfield (31/^), center of another agricultural colony, and Finnell (2) to Tehama (2i/^), where it joins the main line of the Southern Pacific Shasta Route, continuing to Red Bluff (see Route 13, Marysville to Redding). 1 6. Sacramento to Placerville The route outlined below leads into a region famed in the early days because of its great gold production; in fact, gold was first discovered in paying quantities in California at Coloma, near Placerville. Aside from its historic interest, the trip is enjoyable because of the picturesque scenery along the route; no journey to California can be said to be com- plete without seeing the mountain and foothill regions of the Sierra Nevadas. Added value is given to the trip by the fact that Lake Tahoe can be reached to best advantage from Placerville by an automobile road, on which run regular lines of automobile stages during the tourist season. From Sacramento the route extends through Brighton (5) and Perkins (2) to Jura (9). A branch line from here 221 leads to FAIR OAKS (1). This town of 500 inhabitants is situated in the lowest foothills near the American River; along the banks of the American at this point there are pic- turesque bluffs. There is a fruit-packing house at Fair Oaks, as well as one at Orangevale, close by. From Jura the route extends through Alder Creek (4) and Natoma (1) to Folsom (1). FOLSOM, situated on the American River, is the center of a rich country. Here is situated a state penitentiary. The first railroad constructed in California was built between Sacramento and Folsom in 1854 (the Sacramento Valley Railroad). The main route rims from Folsom into El Dorado county, reaching Cothrin (12). EL DORADO COUNTY is one of the oldest in the state, having been created in 1850'. It has an area of 1,753 square miles. Situated on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, it is one of the most famous of the "Mother Lode" mining counties. It was in the central portion that gold was first discovered in California, and ever since frontier days mining has played an important part in the life of the county. In the early days millions of dollars' worth of gold was extracted on or near the surface. For a time the forbidding of hydraulic mining by the Legislature caused mining opera- tions to decrease, but at the present time there are many placer and quartz claims being actively worked. Copper is also mined extensively, and quarries in the county furnish an exceptionally fine quality of slate. Most of the population of the county (7,492 in 1910) is to be found in the western, or foothill, region. Beyond an altitude of 3,000 feet very few live, except a temporary population of campers and pleasure-seekers and also timber cutters and cattle men, who invade the mountainous districts during the dry season. The eastern section of the county, (Extending to the Nevada line, and Lake Tahoe, is part of the Sierra forest country, rich in timber and latent water power, and dotted with gem- like mountain lakes. Many lovers of California scenery are attracted during the summer to this region. The mountains, at elevations of from 3,000 to 6,000 feet, are covered with virgin forests of coniferous trees, with sugar pine, Douglas spruce, fir and cedar, all noted for size and beauty. The game to be found here also adds to the attraction of the county. The beauties of the region are such as are described by John Muir in his "Mountains of California." TTie railroad runs from Cothrin to Latrobe (3), a pleasant foothill town. (Latrobe Hotel, $2 up.) From Latrobe, a north- eastern turn is made through Bula (2), Brandon (1^/^), Dugan 222 (1%) and Bennett (2), to Shingle Springs (3). This portion of the county is devoted principally to grazing and vineyards. Cummings (3%) and EI Dorado (3) are on the road to Dia- mond Springs (2). At this town is located the largest private enterprise of the county, the California Door Company. A nar- row-gauge line, thirty-three miles in length, operated by the company, penetrates the lumber country to the east and ter- minates at Caldor. During the summer, a passenger train is run through this scenic region once a week. PLACERVILLE, four miles from Diamond Springs, is at the end of the Southern Pacific branch running from Sacra- mento. Placerville is the county seat. It has a population of 2,300. As the center of a prosperous mining and farming re- gion, it is a well-equipped supply point. There are five churches, two newspapers, a daily and a weekly, a box factory, the county high school, a library, and a new $120,000 court house. (Ohio House, A. P. $2.50'; Carey Hotel, $2.50.) Placerville is the historic "Hangtown" of early days, and gained its firsi name because it was the scene of many in- stances of swift and effective frontier justice. The name was later changed to Placerville. It was here that many early for- tunes were made, among them being that of J. M. Studebaker, then known as "Wheelbarrow John." The way in which the foundation for the ample Studebaker fortune was laid at "Hangtown" is part of the entertaining annals of El Dorado County. After the lapse of sixty years from the time that he first set foot in El Dorado County, Mr. Studebaker made a trip from his home in South Bend, Indiana, for the purpose of honoring his old-time friends and the place where he made his start in business. He first went to the old shop where he had wrought in making wheelbarrows, and then gathered his former companions at a banquet. In his after-dinner speech he explained that here he began the making of vehicles, an occupation to which he has devoted his life. Instead of dig- ging in the mines as most of his companions did, he stuck to his craft as a wheelwright, and at the end of a few years re- turned to his old home, where he and his brothers established the Studebaker factory, that gives employment to thousands of men. At Placerville is the famous old Pacific mine, from which over two million dollars worth of gold has been extracted. It is now being reopened by an English company. North of Placerville is Coloma, near which gold was discovered on Jan- uary 24, 1848, by John W. Marshall, at John A. Sutter's saw mill. The heroic statue of Marshall here does honor to the discoverer. Still farther north is Georgetown, the center of 223 a prosperous mining and fruit-growing country. (New George- town Hotel, $1.25.) From Placerville north there rims the Placerville & Lake Tahoe Railroad, operated by the El Dorado Lumber Com- pany. This line traverses the timber district as far as Cam- ino, and in time will extend to Lake Tahoe. Tliere also ex- tends from Placerville one of the most beautiful automobile roads in the state, the Placerville-Tallac state road to Tahoe. This thoroughfare extends through miles of mountain scenery that cannot be surpassed. 1 7 . San Francisco to Napa and Clear Lake This trip may be made by several routes, the most popular of which is by the steamer of the Monticello Steamship Com- pany to Vallejo and thence by the lines of the Southern Pa- cific or the San Francisco, Napa and Calistoga Railway (elec- tric) northward through the Napa Valley; from Calistoga points on Clear Lake and in Lake County are reached by stage. Another way to reach Napa is by way of the route from San Francisco to Vallejo (described in Route 11 of this book). This trip is made by the Southern Pacific. After leaving Vallejo both the Southern Pacific and the line of the San Francisco, Napa and Calistoga Railway follow the same general route. The routes lead into Napa County, reach- ing Napa Junction. Four miles north from Vallejo the railroad and principal highway enter NAPA COUNTY, a rich orchard and grain-grow- ing region, noted as well for its grapes and wine-making. The population of the county in 1910 was 19,800; in 1900 it was 16,451. The area is 783 square miles. This county has a system of roads which is unexcelled in the rural districts of the state, and its excellent stone bridges are the best in the country; there are now 308 of all sizes and more are being constructed, all of durable masonry. NAPA JUNCTION, eight miles from Vallejo, is a town with cement and other factories. It is the point at which the Southern Pacific branch lines diverge; the Santa Rosa branch here turns to the west, the Suisun branch to the east. Tliese routes offer pleasant side trips. The Santa Rosa region is de- scribed in another section (see index). The Suisun branch 224 runs from Napa Junction through Creston (4) across into Solano County and to Cordelia (4), a prosperous farming town. About three miles to the north of here, at the head of Green Valley, in a shady canyon, is a pretty little waterfall, about 60 feet high. From Cordelia the branch connects with the main line at Suisun (see Route 11). TTie main route northward up the Napa Valley extends through the town of Suscol to the city of Napa, eight miles from Napa Junction. NAPA, the county seat of the county of that name, is a rapidly-growing community, about fifty miles north of San Francisco. The population in 1910 was 5,791; in 1900 it was 4,036. It is the head of navigation on the Napa River, and a considerable trade by water with the city of San Francisco is growing up. The Napa river drains the Napa Valley, noted for its fertility. The valley is thirty miles long and five miles broad at its widest point; it is bordered on each side by spurs of the Coast Range. The city occupies a pretty location in a narrow part of the valley, surrounded by the foothills and mountains. To the northeast is George Mountain (1,888 feet), while to the north- west rise Bismarck Knob (2,370 feet) and Veeder Mountain (2,670 feet). The city has an excellent park and boulevard system, including a twelve-acre park with botanical gardens. There are several attractive public buildings, among them the public library, with 10,000 volumes. The hotels of Napa are: Alexandria Hotel, E. P.; Hottle House, A. P. $2, E. P. 50 cents up; Palace Hotel, A. P. $2.50; TTie Napa, A. P. $2. At Napa, southeast of the center of the city, is a State Insane Asylum, with 2,000 inmates. The grounds cover 1,900 acres; there are fifteen buildings, costing in all $1,800',000. The name "Napa," in the language of the large and warlike tribe of Indians that formerly occupied this region, means "fish," and was first applied to the Napa river because of the abundance of fish in the stream. The Napa Valley was one of the first sections of the state to be settled by Americans, some >ears before the overthrow of the Mexican power. In the foothills, five miles north of Napa, are the Napa Soda Springs, known for their mineral waters and as a resort. An- other road from Napa northward leads to the little towns of Rector (12) and Atlas (16), lying at the base of Atlas Peak. (2,662 feet). There are several fertile little valleys lying among these mountains. Monticello, 25 miles northeast of Napa, is the principal town of the Eerryessa Valley. It is now 225 reached by stage from Napa, but a railroad is projected. The road leads northeast, through the town of Capell, in Capell Valley. Eerryessa Valley, 18 miles long and two miles wide, is a rich farming region. The bridge over Piitah Creek, near Monticello, is the largest stone bridge west of the Rocky Mountains; it is 298 feet long and cost $19,980. From Napa, the railroad lines and main road traverse the Napa Valley, through the towns of Union, Oak Knoll and Tru- body to Yountville, nine miles north of the county seat. This busy and pretty town is the center of a prosperous farming community. Yountville is the site of the Veterans' Home of California, accommodating 1,000 veterans. General H. W. Bur- ton, U. S. A., retired, is commandant. From YOUNTVILLE the roads pass through Oakville (3 miles from Yountville). West of Oakville rises St. John Mountain (2,370 feet). Two miles farther on is Rutherford, where is situated the agricultural home of the San Francisco Youth's Directory, with 200 children. Four miles from Ruth- erford is St. Helena. ST. HELENA (Grand Hotel, $1.50 up) is a well-built little city, the principal structures being of stone brought from nearby quarries. This is the second city of Napa county, and in 1910 had a population of 1,603; in 1900 it had 1,582. The stone grammar school and high school are models of their kind, the latter being especially fine. The public library, of mission architecture, contains 3,500 volumes. At St, Helena is the largest stone winery in the world, the Graystone; the surrounding district is a rich grape country. The St. Helena Sanitarium is 3 miles northeast of the city in the foothills of Howell Mountain. From St. Helena roads lead northeast to the towns of Ahgwin (8), Pope Valley (12) and thence north- west to Liddell (17). Another road leads west to the towns of Chiles, in Chiles Valley, and Lomitas. These are all pros- perous farming communities. From St. Helena the main road runs north nine miles to Calistoga (Calistoga Hotel, $2), a pretty town lying at the head of the Napa Valley and at the base of Mount St. Helena. The population in 1910 was 751; in 1900- it was 690. Tliis is the northern terminus of the railroad. Within the city limits are the well-known Calistoga Hot Springs. CALISTOGA is the entrance to the Robert Louis Steven- son country. It was in 1880 that the gifted author, with his bride, spent two summer months on the side of Mount St. Helena, coming down to Calistoga only occasionally. Steven- son has embodied this portion of his life in "Silverado Squat- 226 ters," which was written here. The little mining settlement of Silverado has disappeared; it was abandoned in Steven- son's time. The house in which he lived is likewise gone, but a monument has been erected on its site which is a shrine for admirers of the famous Scotsman. There is an excellent trail up the mountain to this spot. Here can be seen yet "the one tall pine beside the ledge," the shaft and mine across from it, opposite his cabin, all of which he describes. The ruined tunnel was used as a wine cellar by Stevenson. The old Toll House on the road below was where the Mount St. Helena Inn now stands. It was a two-story structure; on the porch Stevenson used to wait for the stage that brought him his mail. The monument to Stevenson is striking; it is in the form of a great desk that supports an open book, cut from rosy Scotch granite, all set on a rough granite base. Mount St. Helena is the highest peak in this part of the Coast Range, rearing its crest 4,343 feet above sea-level. The mountain was given this name by the Russian naturalist. Wosnessomsky, who ascended it in 1841; the name was given in honor of the Empress of Russia. The scenery about Mount St. Helena is impressive and beautiful, being thus described by Stevenson in his "Silverado Squatters": 'It is the Mount Blanc of one section of the Coast Range. It looks down on much intricate country. It feeds in the springtime many splashing brooks. From its summit yoa must have an excellent lesson in geography, seeing to the south San Francisco Bay, with Tamalpais on the one hand and Mount Diciblo on the other; to the west and 30 miles away the open ocean; eastward and across the cornlands and thick tule swamjDs of Sacramento Valley, to where the Central Pacific begins to climb the sides of the Sierras; and north- ward, for all 1 know, the white head of Shasta looking down on Oregon. Three counties, Napa, Lake and Sonoma, march across its cliffy shoulders. Its naked peak stands nearly 4,500 feet above the sea. Its sides are fringed with forest, and the soil, where it is bare, glows warm with cinnabar." From Calistoga roads lead into Lake and Sonoma Counties, a territory famous for the beauty of its scenery and the num- ber of its mineral springs. Stage lines from Calistoga reach many of the resorts, while the roads are excellent for auto- mobile touring. From Calistoga there are two main roads into Lake County, the Toll Road along the base of Mount St. Helena and one by way of Oat Hill. The former is much the better of the two and is four miles shorter than the other. At Oat Hill, 12 miles from Calistoga on the latter road, are 227 the Oat Hill mines, from which $9,000,000 in cinnabar has been taken out. About a mile beyond the road enters Lake County, and Middletown, eight miles from Oat Hill, is reached over a fairly good road through a picturesque region. The Toll Road traverses the country at the base of Mount St. Helena, past the Toll House, where toll must be paid. Lake County is entered at a point directly east of the summit of the mountain. LAKE COUNTY, known as a playground for tourists, holds some of the most famous scenery in California, and its very remoteness from the railroad lends it charm. In the summer it is sought by thousands of visitors from all parts of the country. Situated in the heart of the Coast Range, this region is dotted with beautiful lakes, the largest and best known being Clear Lake. Deer and smaller game abound, and excellent fishing is had in stream and lake. In the mountains there are a number of very fertile valleys where agriculture is carried on, while flocks and herds graze on the hillsides. The county is popular with automobilists, as the roads are good and the scenery grand. Lake County is noted for the large number of mineral springs and resorts within its borders. The principal of these are Allen, Anderson, Ad- ams, Bartlett, Bonanza, Bynum, Highlands, Glenbrook, How- ard, Harbin, Hoberg, Blue Lakes, Saratoga, Siegler, Soda Bay, Spiers. Newman, Hough, Gordon, Laurel Dell, Crabtree, Witter and Castle. The population of Lake County in 1910 was 5,526. The area of the county is 1,278 square miles. MIDDLETOWN, 16 miles from Calistoga, lies in the fertile Loconomi Valley, and is the gateway to many resorts. Har- bin, Spiers, Howard, Bonanza Springs, Siegler, Adams, Gordon, Hoberg and other springs and resorts lie a short distance to the north of Middletown, and are all accessible by good roads. From Middletown tw^o main roads diverge, one northwest to- ward Kelseyville and Lakeport, the other north toward Lower Lake. The former road passes through Glenbrook (13 miles) to Kelseyville (11 miles from Glenbrook). Kelseyville is in the heart of Big Valley, a rich orchard region. Here roads diverge to Highland Springs (8 miles) and thence into Sonoma County and to Soda Springs, on Clear Lake. The main road continues north to Lakeport (8 miles). LAKEPORT, situated on the very edge of Clear Lake, is the county seat. Its population in 1910 was 870; m 1900 it was 726. The view over Clear Lake from Lakeport is delight- ful and to enjoy it to the full a ride should be taken on the lake in the launches which can be hired here. Sailboats may also be had, and the fishing is excellent. 228 CLEAR LAKE is the largest body of fresh water on the Pacific Slope. Tt is 25 miles long and from 2 to 9 miles broad. The lake surface is 1,325 feet above sea-level. The water is very clear and blue. Fertile valleys and rugged mountains line the lake shore, upon which are situated many beautiful country lioines. Mount Konocti, known locally as "Uncle Sam," rises from the margin of the lake, and from its summit, 4,246 feet above sea-ievel, a commanding view of lake, valley and mountain may be had. It is interesting to note, in com- parison, that the celebrated Loch Lomond, the largest of the Scottish lakes, is exactly the same length as Clear Lake, but is not so broad (1 to 5 miles) ; Ben Lomond, which rises above it, is not so high as Mount Konocti, its crest being only 3,192 feet above sea-level. Opposite Lakeport is the broadest part of Clear Lake. From Lakeport a road leads west past Glen Alpine into Mendocino County. The main road here travels northeast, following the lakf^ shore, to Upper Lake (11 miles). From here there are delightful short journeys to be taken to Witter Springs, lying bej^ond the Blue Lakes (7 miles) ; Blue Lakes, Laurel Dell a,nd Saratoga Springs. These places can also be reached by road from Lakeport, about 15 miles to the south- east. The Blue Lakes and the Laurel Dell Lake are well worth visiting, because of the beauty of the scenery in their vicinity, although they are of no great size. From these re- sorts northwest of Upper Lake, the roads lead into Mendocino County. From Middletown, the second main road leads past Guenoe (5 miles) to Lower Lake (16 miles). Lower Lake is the center of a large and prosperous agricultural and stock-raising dis- trict. From Lower Lake a road leads through Kelseyville (16 miles) to Lakeport. Another road from Lakeport passes through Upper Lake (11 miles) to Bartlett Landing, on Clear Lake (17 miles). From this point roads lead to Bartlett Springs, Newman Springs, Hough Springs and Allen Springs; another road leads south along the lake to Morrison's Land- ing. The road from Lower Lake to Bartlett cannot.be traveled except by the lightest kind of vehicles. 1 8. San Francisco to Santa Rosa This is the first stage of the journey through the northern coast counties, reached by the Southern Pacific and the North- western Pacific Railroad. A Southern Pacific branch from 229 Vallejo by way of Napa Junction, runs to Santa Rosa, This route follows the same general course as the Sonoma Valley route of the Northv/estern Pacific, described later, but continues past Glen Ellen, the terminus of the former line, and runs thence through Kenwood (4), "Los Guilicos (3) and Melitta (2) to the city of Santa Rosa. The Northwestern Pacific Railroad begins at Sausalito, reached by ferryboat from San Francisco (see Route la). Sausalito (described on page 64) is the gateway to Marin County, and from here can be reached Mill Valley, Mount Tamalpais, Tiburon and Belvedere, besides San Rafael, on the main line. A branch line to Cazadcro from Sausalito is de- scribed in Section a under this route. MARIN COUNTY has an area of ."29 square miles. Much of the surface is broken and hil^y, the highest point being Mount Tamalpais, 2,608 feet. The county is a peninsula, bor- dered on the west and south by the Pacific Ocean and on the east by San Francisco Bay. The principal industries are dairying and grazing, but fruit-growing and horticulture are coming into prominence. The population of the county in 1910 was 25,114; in 1900 it was 15,702. Marin County received its name from an Indian chief who for some years bravely de- fended this territory against the Spaniards. From Sausalito the main line of the Northwestern Pacific Railroad runs through Baltimore Pari: (QV2) and Detour (V2), Green Brae (V2) and Schuetzen Park (1) to San Rafael (1). SAN RAFAEL, the county seat of Marin County, is a pretty residence city, with a population of 5,934 in 1910. (Hotel Rafael, A. P. $3.50 up, E. P. $2.50 up; Glen Rose Hotel, E. P.) There are some of the finest country homes in California sit- uated in San Rafael and in Ross, a short distance to the west. The county building is a fine example of architecture of its kind. Three miles southeast of San Rafael, on San Fran- cisco Pay, is San Quentin, where is situated the California State Prison. A stage line runs west from San Rafael to Bo- linas. San Rafael is an old mission town, but the mission building of San Rafael Archangel, founded in 1817, has disap- peared. The main route of the Northwestern Pacific runs north from San Rafael through St. Vincent's (5), Ignacio (3) and Novato (3) to Burden {ZV2), From Ignacio a branch line di- verges from the main route, running up the Sonoma Valley. This side trip is described in Section b under this route. On the border between Marin and Sonoma counties, in the Peta- luma Valley, was fought in 1815 a desperate battle between the 230 Spanish soldiers and the Indians under Chief Marin, From Burdell the railroad crosses into Sonoma County, reaching Petaluma HVz). SONOMA COUNTY has an area of 1,620 square miles and two water frontages, one along San Pablo Bay on the east and the other on the Pacific Ocean to the west. The population in 1910 was 43,394. The main products are hops, grapes, apples, prunes, cherries, dairy products and poultry; while peaches, pears, plums, apricots are raised at a profit. All of the grains and vegetables mature early and command the highest market prices. There are over 2,500 acres of berries, and the largest berry field in the United States is located in the county. So- noma County alone produces 11,000,000 gallons of wine an- nually, valued at $2,50'0,000. Sonoma County is the home of the world's great horti- culturist, Luther Burbank. The climatic and soil conditions had great influence with Mr. Burbank in settling the question of a location for his life work, and the fact that he selected Sonoma County speaks in itself for the general conditions. This county produces as much poultry and eggs as all the remainder of the state. TTie streams and water-courses of Sonoma County are nu- merous. Russian River, the largest stream, enters on the north, flows in a southeasterly direction for 20 miles, turns at Fitch Mountain and finds its way to the largest depression in the Santa Rosa Basin, from which it breaks through a gap in the Coast Range to the Pacific Ocean. This river gathers the waters from three-fifths of the area of the county. The Rus- sian River country is popular with summer vacationists, and more than 100,000 of them visit Sonoma County every year. There are many delightful springs and resorts throughout the county which aid in entertaining the summer throng. Added to all is the glamor of romance lent by landmarks of former days, such as the mission at Sonoma and Old Fort Ross (see later) . This region is remarkable for its varied history; it has at different times been under five different flags — those of Spain, Russia, Mexico, California Republic (1846) and the United States. Sonoma is an Indian word meaning "Valley of the Moon." PETALUMA, the first city of Sonoma County reached by the main line of the Northwestern Pacific, is widely known as the greatest poultry center in the world. (Continental Hotel, E. P. 50 cents up; New American Hotel, A. P. $2 up.) The city is situated at the head of navigation on the Petaluma River, an arm of San Francisco Bay. The population of Petaluma 231 and its suburbs is 10.000; by the census of 193 there were 5,880 people within the corporate limits. The poultry industry in Petaluma and the country immediately surrounding is im- mense. In 1910 there were 1,000,000,000 eggs and almost 1.000,000 head of poultry exported from this region. Much of the city's prosperity is due to the poultry industry, but there are considerable manufactures in the city as well and diver- sified farming in the tributary country. TTie factories include the only silk mill west of the Mississippi. There is also a large winery. The city of Petaluma has a system of parks seldom equalled by a community of like size. Hill Plaza and Walnut Park are two attractive spots in the heart of the city; Oak Hill Park is another tract which is being beautified. Kenil- worth Park, comprising 67 acres, lies one-half within the city and one-half without, on the eastern boundary. Part of the park is wooded, the remainder being level, open land. This park is a popular recreation ground. Petaluma possesses a splendid Public Library building. It is built of native stone from the quarries at Roblar, north of Petaluma, and contains over 10,000 volumes. The city has also attractive and effi- cient public schools. From Petaluma, a branch line of the Northwestern Pacific runs east through Lakeviile (6) to Donahue (1), in a prosper- ous farming region. The Petaluma & Santa Rosa Railway Company operates an electric system of 36 miles, with tide- water connections, with Petaluma as its southern terminal. jThe road runs thence north through Sebastopol to Santa Rosa, with a line to Forestville. From Petaluma the main line of the Northwestern Pacific runs through Corona (2), Ely (2), Penn Grove (1), Cotati (2), Wilfred (3) and Bellevue (3) to the city of Santa Rosa. The beautiful city of SANT'A ROSA, the county seat of Sonoma County, has a population of about 12,000; in IBIO- it had 7,817 inhabitants. (Hotel Overton, E. P. $1 up; Occiden- tal Hotel, A. P. $2.50 up.) Structurally, the city is progres- sive, claiming more steel frame and reinforced concrete buildings than any city of its size on the Pacific Coast. The county court house here is one of the finest in the state; it w^as constructed in 1910 at a cost of $500,000. The postoffice building is another imposing structure. There are a dozen public and private schools, including the Santa Rosa Sem- inary. There is an excellent public library, housed in a fine building. The manufactories of the city are numerous, includ- ing wineries, fruit canneries and tanneries. 232 Santa Rosa has long been tlie home of Luther Bnrbank, "the plant wizard," most of whose great horticultural devel- opments and discoveries have been made here. On his •private grounds he has extensive experimental gardens. Santa Rosa holds annuaUy a Carnival of Roses which was one of the first fetes established during the revival of the pageant- spirit in England and America. The flower battles and the garlanded processions of the fiesta are famous. TTie celebra- tion includes also a representation of the varied agricultural resources of the surrounding territory, choral singing and ath- letic games. From Santa Rosa a branch line of the Northwestern Pa- cific runs southwest through Kenilworth (2) to SEBASTO- POL (4). This town of 2,000 inhabitants, situated in the heart of the Gold Ridge, one of the finest apple-growing re- gions in the West, is widely known as the home of the Grav- enstein apple, which reaches its perfection here. The ship- ments from Sebastopol in 1910 included 215,000 boxes of ap- ples, besides many other agricultural products. Sebastopol has excellent schools, a public library and an attractive city park. Luther Burbank's principal gardens are situated close to the city limits. (a) Sausalito to Cazadero From Sausalito the Cazadero branch of the Northwestern Pacific runs through Corte Madera, Larkspur and Ross to SAN ANSELMO, two miles west of San Rafael. This is a pretty town with a population of 1,531. It is situated in Ross Valley, at the base of picturesque Red Hill (502 feet). Here is situated the San Anselmo Theological Seminary (Presby- terian) on a detached hill. Seminary Mound. The graystone buildings of this institution are substantial and attractive in architecture. T'he route from San Anselmo runs to Fairfax (3), a beau- tiful suburban town, and thence through Alaerneys (4), San Geronimo (1), Lagunitas (2), Camp Taylor (3) and Tocaloma (3) to Point Reyes Station (5), on Tomales Bay. West of here is Point Reyes, a bold promontory, in the shelter of which lies Drake's Bay, to which is attached great historic interest. Drake's Bay was discovered on June 17, 1579, by Sir Francis Drake, the great British sea-fighter. He landed and remained encamped here 37 days, refitting his ship, tue "Golden Hinde," and stocking it with wood and water. He viewed from afar the heights of Tamalpais, but did not as- cend the mountain. If he had dene so he would have discov- ered San Francisco Bay, the entrance of which he had 233 passed, unaware, in a fog". He made note of the giant trees (redwoods) which grew here. Drake took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth and called it "New. Albion," because of the white cliffs lying toward the sea. It was at this time that the first English church service was held in America, Master Francis Fletcher, the chaplain, offi- ciating. The "Prayer-Book Cross" in Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, commemorates the event. Drake left the harbor July 23, and sailed to the Southeast Farallones, where he laid in a store of seal meat, and on July 29, 1579, continued on, his way around the world to England. Early Spanish navigat- ors to seek Drake's Bay were Carmenon, who was wrecked here in 1594, and Vizcaino, who entered the bay January 8, 1603. A road leads south from Point Reyes down the Olema Val- ley to Bolinas Bay, reaching to Olema and Inverness. Bolinas is a town situated on the shores of the bay. Close by are Dux- bury Point and reef, where many ships have foundered. The road continues along the edge of the beach to Willow Camp and thence around the base of T'amalpais to Sausalito. Ten- nessee Cove and Big Lagoon are attractive inlets along the southern Marin coast. From Point Reyes Station the railroad continues north along the shore of Toma'es Bay through Millerton (4) and Marshall (5) to Hamlet (4) and thence inland through Camp Pistolesi (2), Tomales (2), Fallon (2) and Clark Summit (1), into Sonoma County, reaching Valley Ford (3). This re- gion is devoted mainly to dairying. From Valley Ford the route continues north through Bodega Roads (3), Freestone Q) and Occidental (4) to Camp Meeker (1), a popular summer resort. From here the line extends through Tyrone (4j to Monte Rio (1). Cazadero, eleven miles from Monte Rio, is the end of this line. The coast and river regions about Monte Rio, Cazadero and Fort Ross are described under the side trip, Santa Rosa to Cazadero. (b) San Rafael to Glen Ellen The Sonoma Valley line of the Northwestern Pacific Rail- road runs from San Rafael through Ignacio (8) to Black Point (4), and thence into Sonoma County, continuing through Sears Point (5) and McGill (3) to Schellville (4), the first valley town. From here is reached, passing through Vineburg (2) and Buena Vista (1), the picturesque town of Sonoma (1). SONOMA is historically one of the most interesting cities in California. The old Franciscan Mission in this town was the northernmost and also the last established of all missions. 234 The church building and the long row of one-storied buildings, with verandas, still remain. The mission was founded July 4, 1823, and the present church erected the following year. In 1832 there were 996 neophytes enrolled at Sonoma, or Solano, as it was later called; this was its greatest population. After secularization, Sonoma declined and ceased to exist as a mis- sion community after 1840. At Sonoma another interesting landmark is the former military residence of General Mariano Vallejo. On the morning of June 14, 1846, the "Bear Flag"' revolutionists took possession of Sonoma, pnlled down the Mexican ensign and captured General Vallejo. He was im- prisoned at Sutter's Fort, Sacramento. About three weeks after this the "Bear Flag" forces placed themselves under the command of John C. Fremont. Sonoma is the largest ship- ping and trading point in the Sonoma Valley and has a pop- ulation of about 2,000. There are a number of important man- ufactories here. The city hall is an imposing building con- structed of cut stone, situated in a plaza of eight acres. There are excellent schools and a public library. (Union Hotel, $2.) From Sonoma the Northwestern Pacific continues to Ver- ano (1), a summer retreat and a center of the poultry indus- try, and thence to Boyes Hot Springs (1), a popular health re- sort. Opposite the springs is Woodleaf Park. One mile be- yond are the Agua Caliente Springs, a large and well-known resort. (Agua Caliente Springs Hotel, $2.) Near here are the Hooker Falls, amid scenery of surpassing beauty. Eleida Springs are in this neighborhood. From Agua Caliente the railroad runs through Eldridge (2) to GLEN ELLEN (1), the northern terminus of the Sonoma Valley line. (Merwyn Hotel, A. P. $2.) Glen Ellen is de- lightfully situated among hills and canyons and is popular with tourists. Jack London, the author, has a ranch- home near here. (c) Santa Rosa to Cazadero From SANTA ROSA runs one of the scenic routes of Northern California, that toward the west through the Rus- sian River country to Cazadero; from here the return can be made to San Francisco by way of the line along the coast, described in section a of this route, Sausalito to Cazadero. The trip from Sausalito to Santa Rosa, thence west to Monte Rio and south again to Sausalito forms the Triangle Trip of the Northwestern Pacific, affording a pleasant one-day side trip from San Francisco. 235 From Santa Rosa the Cazadero branch runs to Fulton (5), where it diverges from the line of the main route. Passing through Meacham (2), Trenton (3) and Forestville (2), Green Valley (2), Hilton (2) and Rionido (2), all small towns In the productive fruit-growing region, the railroad reaches GUERNEVILLE (2). This is the principal of the towns of So- noma County lying near the coast; the population is 800. It is an important dairy, fruit and lumber center; its apples are especially fine. There are numerous summer resorts along the Russian River here. (Guerneville Hotel, A. P. $2.) Among the redwoods near Guerneville is the Bohemian Grove, where the annual festival of the Bohemian Club of San Francisco is held. There is a natur.al amphitheater in the grove where the famous Bohemian play is enacted. From Guerneville the railroad runs through Rio Campo (3) to MONTE RIO (1). This is one of the most popular summer resorts in Northern California. Picturesquely situ- ated on the steep hills overlooking the Russian River, Monte Rio is justly famous for the variety of natural scenery in its vicinity. There is a good bathing beach and the aquatic sports include rowing and launch rides on the river. There are many delightful walks through the majestic redwood for- ests, gathering wild flowers and ferns of many varieties, which are found in profusion. In summer there are from 2,000 to 3,000 people at Monte Rio. The line of the Northwestern Pacific runs from Monte Rio to Duncan Mills (4), where there is a large lumber industry, and thence north to CAZADERO (7). TTiis is another popu- lar resort town, well known for the beauty of its surround- ings. It is an important dairy center. (Cazadero Hotel, $2; Watson's Hotel, $2.) Cazadero is the present terminus, but an excellent road leads west to the sea coast and historic Fort Ross (11). FORT ROSS, reached from Cazadero by stage, is situated on one of the most beautiful bits of coast in all California. The fort is an old Russian outpost. It was founded in 1812 and was held by them until 1842, when they voluntarily with- drew. Though this territory was claimed by Spain (and later Mexico) the Russians m.aintained this military and trad- ing post in California despite all protests. The original set- tlement contained over fifty houses, of which nine were within the stockade. At diagonal corners of the quadrangle were erected blockhouses of hewn logs a foot in thickness. The quadrangle was about 300 feet square, inclosed by red- wood limbers, 8 inches thick and 15 feet high, set upright in 236 the ground. There were forty cannon mounted at the fort; it was so well protected that it was never threatened by the Spanish. The buildings now standing within the stockade are the old Governor's house, the barracks, the granary and, the Greek chapel (restored). T'he site of Fort Ross is said to have been purchased from the Indians for three blankets, three pairs of trousers and a few trinkets. The name of Fort Ross is a modification of the Spanish "Fuerte de los -Rusos" (Fort of the Russians). There are apple trees near the fort which were planted by the first settlers in 1812; they are still bearing fruit. Near Cazadero, and within easy reach by a good road, is CAMP DIXIE, a delightful place of summer homes among the sequoias and the running streams. The region round- about is one of great scenic beauty. 1 9. Santa Rosa to Willi ts This is the continuation of the tour of the northern coast counties of California by way of the Northwestern Pacific lines. From Santa Rosa the railroad extends to Fulton (5), whence the side trip to Cazadero (described in the preceding section) is made. FULTON, with a population of 250, is an agricultural town, the surrounding region producing hops, grapes and prunes. From here the main line continues north- west to Mark West (1), near which are the Mark West Springs. (Hotel.) After passing througli the town of Wind- sor (3) and Grant (4), Healdsburg, in a rich fruit-growing region is reached. HEALDSBURG, an incorporated city of 3,000 people, is attractively situated on the Russian River. The fruit ship- ments from here are 1,000 carloads annually; the city has large canneries and fruit-packing establishments. Tliere are fine public schools and a free library. Healdsburg is a pop- ular resort town, with boating, bathing and other summer pleasures. (Sotoyome House, $2 up; Union Hotel, A. P. $2, E. P. $1.) There are many camping places, resorts and country residences among the redwoods and along the river. A new branch line of the Northwestern Pacific is being con- structed from Healdsburg northwesterly. The main line of the railroad runs from Healdsburg through Lytton (4) to GEYSERVILLE (4), located near the Russian River. Many resorts are visited from. here. Among 237 them are Skaggs Hot Springs (9), to the west, reached by stage or automobile. The temperature of the springs is 125 to 3 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Points of Interest near the springs are Falls Creek Canyon, the Falls and Redwood Canyon. The railroad continues from Geyserville to ASTI (6), the center of the Italian-Swiss Colony. Tliis company (affiliated with the California Wine Associaticn) has at Asti the largest wine vineyard in America, consisting of 2,000 acres. Here also is the largest wine cistern in the world; the tank, with a capacity of .50'0,000 gallons, is cut in solid rock, lined with glazed-surface cement. From Asti the route continues to Cloverdale (4), an incorporated city of 1,300. CLOVERDALE is a great grape and wine center; the growing of citrus fruits, especially oranges, is the other prin- cipal agricultural industry. (United States Hotel, $2.50.) The Russian River flows by the city, making it popular as a summer resort. In the vicinity there are numerous mineral springs. The best known of these are The Geysers (Hot Springs Hotel, $12 up per week), by stage to the east. There are points of unusual interest around the Geysers, including many strange natural features; there is excellent bathing in the swimming lake of mineral waters and good fishing in the Pluton River. From Cloverdale the main route passes through Preston (1) into Mendocino County at Echo (2i^). MENDOCINO COUNTY has an area of 3453 square miles. The population in 1910 was 23,929. TTie principal industry is lumbering, there being over 600,000 acres of redwood in the county, mainly on the slopes of the Coast Range, from 10 to 30 miles inland. There are besides great acreages of tanbark-oak and pine. Fruit-growing, horticulture and general farming are carried on in the numerous valleys, and stock-raising and dairying are important industries. The mountain and coast scenery of Mendocino County is especially beautiful. The Russian River, flowing south, and the Eel River, flowing north, have their source in this county. There are many shorter streams along the coast, most important being the Garcia, Navarro, Noyo and Big Rivers. From Echo the railroad runs through Cummiskey (2) to Pieta (31/4), whence a stage line runs into Lake County to Highland Springs, Kelseyville, Soda Bay, Lakeport and Bart- lett Springs. From Pieta the main route extends through Fountain (IVg) to HOPLAND (3). This is a thriving farming town of 1,000 people, situated in Sanel Valley. (Thatcher House, $2.) From there a stage line runs southwest to Dun- 238 can Springs (Duncan Springs Hotel, $2.50). The route from Hopland north follows the course of the Russian River through Largo (81/2) and El Roble (5i^) to Ukiah (4i^). UKIAH is the county seat of Mendocino County and is growing rapidly. The population in 1910 was 2,136. (Occi- dental Hotel, $1.50; The Alhambra, $1 to $2.) It is the cen- ter of Ukiah Valley, the most thickly settled part of the county. This region is devoted mainly to growing fruit and grapes. At Ukiah is one of the six International Latitude Observatories in the world. The main purpose of the ob- servatory is to measure the variations in the position of the North Pole. A large fish hatchery is conducted at Ukiah by the California State Fish and Game Commission. There are many schools and an excellent public library. Ukiah is a city of increasing industrial importance. (Hotel Cecille, E. P. $1 up.) Stage roads lead in several directions from Ukiah. One to the east reaches Vichy Springs (Vichy Springs Hotel, $2 up), Saratoga Springs, Blue Lakes, Laurel Dell Lake, Witter Springs and Upper Lake. A road running northeast extends through Pomo to Potter Valley, a town of 576 in 1910. This stage line also reaches Sanhedrin Heights, John Day's, San- hedrin Resort and Hullville. North of Hullville, in Lake County, rises picturesque Sheet Iron Moimtain. TTiere is still another stage road northwest from Ukiah to Orr's Hot Springs. From Ukiah the main route extends north to Calpella (6) and Redwood Valley (2), in a farming and vineyard region. From here the road runs through Laughlin (2) and Ridge- wood (7) to Willits (8). WILLITS has a population of about 2,000 and is develop- ing rapidly. In 1910 the population was 1,153. It is situated in Little Lake Valley, where grain farms and apple orchards predominate. Willits is a considerable lumber town, as well as a farming center, there being several large mills here. The pretty Little Lake Valley lies at the foot of the Sanhed- rin Range, the highest point of which is Signal Peak (6,800 feet). Willits is the last large town on the line of the North- western Pacific Railroad; from here northward two lines of this system extend, one of which is being built into Plum- boldt County to Eureka, These lines are described in the route, Willits to Eureka. Roads run from Willits to Fort Bragg, Westport and Mendocino, on the coast, and to Hearst and Sawyers, in the mountains to the northeast. The most attractive side trip is that to Fort Bragg, described 239 herewith; from Fort Bragg may be reached other coast towns by stage. ( a ) Willits to Fort Bragg California Western Line From Willits the line of the California Western- Railroad and Navigation Company rims west to Fort Bragg, by one of the scenic routes of the state. After leaving Willits the rail- road gradually ascends the mountains to the height of 1,740 feet, affording a cielightful view of Little Lake Valley, and then passes through a tunnel (800 feet in length) and emerge.'^ Into tho redwood forests; descending the mountain, the track winds back and forth so that at one place it is necessary to travel 8 1-3 miles to cover a distance of 1^/2 miles. The train then reaches the beautiful Noyo River, along whose banks the remainder of the trip is made; the railroad crosses the river no less than thirty-two times. The route traverses a beautiful camping country and passes Noyo River Tavern, a new resort, located at Northspur, among the redwoods and on the picturesque Noyo River. Other places on the line are Eagle's Nest and Alpine. There is good fishing in the Noyo River; hunting in the mountains adds to the at- traction of this region for the sportsman. Within three miles of Fort Bragg the railroad enters a tunnel (1,128 feet in length) from which the tracks follow Pudding Creek, in which millions of feet of logs are stored for the sawmills at Fort Bragg. FORT BRAGG, the largest city of Mendocino County, is a rapidly growing community of 3,100 people. (Grand Hotel, A. P. $2; Windsor Hotel, A. P. $2.) It is one of the largest lumber centers on the California coast, its output being mainly redwood. The city is well equipped with educational institutions, including a high school; there is also a public library. A city park adds to the attractiveness of Fort Bragg; nearby on the coast is some beautiful scenery, with wave-worn cliffs and sandy bathing beaches. Fort Bragg has two harbors and is the terminus of the National Steamship Company, whose vessels enter and leave twice each week, making the voyage to San Francisco within one night. From Fort Bragg there are stage lines running north and south along the coast. The road running south from the city passes through Noyo (1) to Caspar (6), a lumber center, and thence to Mendocino City (5%). This place, with a population of 1,200, has large lumber mills. From Mendocino the road continues south across Big and Little Rivers to Albion, an- other lumber mill town. From Albion a branch of the North- western Pacific Railroad runs southeast through South Fork to Wendling, in the Anderson Valley. The line is being con- structed up this valley to connect with a line from Healds- 240 burg. It will run through Philo to Boonville (population 500), Fairbanks and Yorkville. The coast road continues south from Albion through Na- varro, on the river of that name, to Greenwood, a lumber mill town, and thence through Miller to Manchester, in a rich dairy region. Prom here the route crosses Garcia River to the town of POINT ARENA. (Point Arena House, $1.) This is the principal town on this part of the coast, with a popula- tion of 600. It is the center of a prosperous farming and dairy region. Nearby, on Point Arena, is a large government lighthouse. The coast road running north from Fort Bragg is a pic- turesque route, the Mendocino Cliffs presenting striking scenic effects all along the way. There are many remarkable sea caves in these cliffs. The stage road from Fort Bragg ex- tends through Cleone (4^^), Inglenook (3) and across the Ten-Mile River at Newport, to Westport (10%). This is a prosperous lumbering town. (Westport Hotel, $1.50.) 20. Willits to Eureka This route concludes the tour of the northern coast coun- ties of California. At the present time the Northwestern Pacific is being built through from Willits to Eureka; the two cities are now joined by an automobile stage line. Two railroad lines run northvv^ard from Willits. The main line of the Northwestern Pacific, being connected with the system of that company in Humboldt County, runs through Outlet (5) and Arnold (5) to Longvale (3%). From Longvale a stage road runs to Laytonville, a branch road running thence northeast to Covelo, in Round Valley, a great hay- producing region. The railroad continues from Longvale to Dos Rios (14), the present terminus, but it is being rapidly extended to connect with the Northwestern Pacific line in Humboldt County. To the north of the line in Round Valley is the Indian Reservation. A branch of the Northwestern Pacific from Willits runs northeast through Rowes (9), Sylvan Dale (1), Encinal (2) to Sherwood (l^-^)- This place is in Sherwood Valley, a farm- ing region, and is also a center of the lumbering industry. A stage road follows the course of the railroad from Willits to Sherwood, continuing thence to Laytonville (15), whence a 241 branch runs to the town of Covelo, and to Ciimmings (13), whence another branch reaches Redwine (5). The main route continues from Cummings through Blue Rock (6) to Bell Springs (11) and thence into Humboldt County, reaching Harris (11). HUMBOLDT COUNTY has an area of 3,634 square miles. The population (estimated) is 45,000. Lumbering is the prin- cipal industry and stock-raising is carried on in most parts of the county, whose surface in the main is hilly. Gold is mined to some extent along the Klamath and Trinity Rivers. Farming and fruit-raising are growing industries, especially in the Humboldt Bay country. Humboldt is the largest dairying county in the state. The mountains and streams appeal to sportsmen and tourists. Flj^-fishing for salmon trout and steelhead on Eel River, Mad River and the lagoons offers keen sport for the angler. Commercial fishing is an important in- dustry in this county, both in the rivers and the ocean. From Harris the stage road continues north across a roll- ing country to Fruitvale (23) and thence to Dyersville (11) on the South Fork of the Eel River. Thence the road follows the general course of the Northwestern Pacific Railway up the Eel River Valley. The route continues rrom Dyerville through Pepperwood (9), and Rio Dell (8), across the Eel River to Metropolitan (3) and thence through Alton, (3) For- tuna (4), Loleta (3) and Beatrice (6) to Field's Landing, on Humboldt Bay, and to Eureka (7). There is a reinforced con- crete bridge built in 1911 across the Eel River at Weott cost- ing nearly $250,000. It is 1,451 feet long and with approaches, 2,476 feet; the width is 24 feet. EUREKA, the metropolis of Northwestern California, is a growing city, with a population of 11,845 in 1910. (Hotel Vance, A. P. $2.50 up.) It is the largest place in California north of Sacramento and is the westernmost city of continen- tal United States, being 20 miles nearer the Orient than any other city. It has fine city, county and federal buildings, as well as public parks. Its commercial Importance is great and with the opening of the Panama Canal and completion of the Northwestern Pacific Railroad it will greatly increase. Ulysses S. Grant, while an officer in the regular army, was stationed here in 1853. HUMBOLDT BAY, the best harbor on the Pacific Coast between San Francisco and Portland, is 14 miles long and from V2 to 4 miles wide. The bay was found by accident by gold-seekers, who were trying to find their way to the Trinity goldfields, but it is said that Russians had previously an- chored here and hunted for sea-otter. Captain Ottinger of the 242 ship "Laura Virginia"' named the bay in honor of Baron Alex- ander Humboldt, the eminent scientist. The harbor is being improved at great cost by the government. The improve- ments will be completed within five years. Prom Eureka lines of the Northwestern Pacific extend north and south. The northern route, extending as far as Trinidad, runs through Bay side (5) to Areata i^Vz), a town of 1,121 people. (Union Hotel, $1.50 up.) This Is an import- ant junction point. A short branch line of the Northwestern Pacific is operated between Areata and the town of Samoa, on the western side of the bay. 1 he Areata and Mad River Railroad also operates a line through Blue Lake (10), a town of 507 inhabitants (census of 1910), to Korbel (2), the ter. minus of the route. The main line of the Northwestern Pacific northward from Areata crosses the Mad River to Essex (5) and thence runs through Fieldbrook (iVz), Little River Junction (3), Bull- winkle (1) and Luffenholtz (3) to TULNIDAD (4). Trinidad is situated near Trinidad Head, a high promon- tory. The scenery about Trinidad Bay is remarkably pictur- esque. Trinidad (Trinity) Bay was discovered by Captain Bruno Ezeta on Trinity Sunday, June 11, 1775. From Trinidad a road leads north to Orick and thence across into Del Norte County to Requa and thence along the coast to Crescent City. This is a popular automobile route. DEL NORTE COUNTY, as its Spanish name indicates, one of the most northerly of the state, had a population of 2,417 in 1910; almost half of the inhabitants are in the county seat and principal seaport, CRESCENT CITY (population in 1910, 1,114). The principal industries are dairying and lumbering, but farming, fruit-growing, salmon fishing and mining are other industries which are developing. There is delightful scenery in Del Norte County, both along the coast and in the interior mountains and valleys, especially along the Smith and Klamath Rivers. Crescent City beach, for a stretch of five miles to the southward, is one of the finest in the state, excellent for bathing, driving or automobiling, as it is firmly packed and hard. T'o the north of the city is a rocky and rugged coast, with many natural features which attract the tourist, such as Pebble Beach, Woody Island and Lovers' Rock. The area of Del Norte County is 1,024 square miles. The Northwestern Pacific Railroad running southeast from Eureka, extends through Bucksport (31/^), South Bay (3) and Beatrice (4) to Loleta (3), near the mouth of the Eel River. From here a road leads south along the coast through Ferndale (5), a town with a population of 905 (census of 243 1910), to Capetown (15). Near here is Cape Mendocino, the most western point in the United States. The cape is a bold promontory, discernible far out at sea. It was discovered in 1542 by the Spanish navigator Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, who named it in honor of Don Antonio de Mendoza, the first vice- roy of New Spain. The railway from Loleta leads to Singley (1^/^), whence a stage line runs to Ferndale (American House, $1). The main route continues through Fortuna (0V2), a town with a popula- tion of 883 in 1910, and Rohnerville (2) (Grand Hotel, $1), to Alton (2). From here a branch line runs southeast through Hydesville (2) to Carlotta (o^/^). From Alton the main line extends through the town of Metropolitan (2l^), Canyon Park (1), Robinson's Ferry (1), Scotia (3), Elinor (6), Shively (4), Bryan (li/4) to South Fork (5i/^). Though this is the present terminus of the line, it is being rapidly extended southward to connect with the line of the Northwestern Pacific Company in Mendocino County. The route will be in operation by January 1, 1914. 2 1 . Western Pacific Lines (Feather River Canyon) The lines of the Western Pacific Railway in California run from Oakland (reached by ferry from San Francisco), to Stockton, thence north to Sacramento, thence through Marys- ville and Oroville into the Feather River country, one of the most picturesque regions of the state. The lines of the Western Pacific, before leaving Oroville, cover practically the same territory as that traversed by other lines; in order to avoid repetition, therefore, only an outline of the routes will be given up to that city, the traveler being referred to other parts of the book for a general description of the country passed through. After leaving Oakland, the Western Pacific runs to Hay- ward (13), and thence through Niles (10), Livermore (18), Midway (15), Carbona (9), and Lathrop (10), to Stockton(lO). This general route, with a description of the principal towns passed through, including the city of Stockton, will be found outlined under Route 24 of this book, San Francisco to Stock- ton. 244 From Stockton the main line of the Western Pacific runs northward through Kingdon (11), Brack (5), Thornton (4), Glannvale (-5), Franklin (6) and Cordova (9) to Sacramento (5). The character of the country passed through is de- scribed in Route 25, Stockton to Sacramento. TTie Western Pacific from Sacramento runs to Marysville through Del Paso (5), Counsman (7), Pleasant Grove (7) and Denniston (14) to Marysville (7). A description of Marysville and the surrounding country is given in Route 12, Sacramento to Marysville. From Marysville the Western Pacific extends through Tambo (7), Craig (7) and Palermo (,6) to Oroville. Oroville, and the region about the city, are described in Route 12a. The line of the Western Pacific continues from Oroville up the Canyon of the Feather River through the towns of Bidwell (8), Bloomer (5), Las Plumas (3), Berry Creek (3), Blinzig (5), Intake (3), Poe (3), and Big Bar, into Plumas County, reaching Merlin (9). PLUMAS COUNTY has an area of 2,594 square miles and has the largest area of timber land in the state, being prac- tically one continuous forest. In the numerous mountain valleys agriculture is carried on, while mining has been a source of much wealth. The county is interesting to the tourist because of the magnificence of its scenery, with its mountains, forests, lakes and meadows, and above all the Canyon of the Feather River. There is hunting for deer and bear in the mountains, as well as smaller game. Plumas County received its name from the early Spanish name for the Feather River, Rio de las Plumas (River of the Feathers). The headwaters of this beautiful stream rise in Plumas County. Tlie roads of Plumas County are excellent. From Merlin, the Western Pacific follows the course of the north fork of the Feather River through Belden (12), Rich (5), Virgilia (5) and Twain (4) to KEDDIE (7). This grow- ing town is the shipping point for Indian Valley, a rich grain- producing region. From Keddie a road leads south to Quincy (7), the county seat. QUINCY township had a population of 884 in 1910. This town lies nestled in the American Valley in a beautiful situation at the base of pine-clad hills. It is six miles from the Western Pacific line, with the Quincy Western Railway connecting it with that line at Marston. A stage line leads west from Quincy through Spanish Ranch to Meadow Valley, at the base of picturesque Spanish Peak; from here the road runs southwest into Butte County. An- 245 other road leads from Quincy to Nelson Point and Onion Val- ley, past Pilot Peak into Sierra County. The region north of Keddie is reached by a stage-road from there, past Indian Falls to Crescent Mills, in the rich Indian Valley. From this i)oint roads diverge to the east and west. The eastern road leads to Taylorsville and thence roads extend north to Susanville and southeast to Gennessee Valley and Red Clover, in Lassen County. The other stage-road runs northwest to Greenville, in a rich quartz-mining district. Near here are fine warm bathing springs. At Greenville is the county high school. From here the road continues through Easton, at the foot of Mount Dyer and Mount Keddie, to Prattville. This town, in the Big Meadows, is a well-known summer resort. The beauty of the scenery and the hot springs in the neighborhood attract many visitors. At Long- ville, in Humbug Valley, to the southwest on the Oroville road, are springs whose waters are valued for their medicinal properties. To the northwest, past the town of Chester, is Hot Spring Valley, reached in a half-day's travel. Here are a great number of rumbling hot springs, with steam issuing from them, as well as bubbling hot mud springs. To the southwest of the valley are other indications of nearness to an active volcano, in the Geysers and a lake of boiling mud about ten acres in extent. This region is well worth visiting. Above the valley towers Mount Harkness (8,873). From Keddie the Western Pacific runs southeast through Marston (7), Spring Garden (9), Sloat (5) and Blairsden (8) to Clio (4). This is in the lumbering territory. From here the celebrated lake region of Plumas and Sierra Counties may be i^eached (see Route 12b), as well as the Sulphur Spring Ranch, at the head of Mohawk Valley. The springs are both warm and cold. The towns of Mohawk and Johnsville, at the foot of Eureka Peak, are in this section. From Clio the road passes along Castle Canyon through Mabie (4) to PORTOLA (3), on the middle branch of the Feather River. It was named for the first Spanish governor of California. The Sierra Valley Railway (a branch of the Nevada-California-Oregon Railway), runs southwest from Clio to Plumas Junction (see Route 22). Portola is the northern terminus of the Boca and Loyalton Railway. This route be- gins at Boca, in Nevada County, on the line of the Southern Pacific. From Boca the line runs northward into Sierra County, along the Little T'ruckee River, thence through the Sardine Valley into the Sierra Valley. Loyalton (population 983 in 1910) is the principal town in this valley, and is the 246 center of the lumber industry. The Sierra County high school is situated here. From Loyalton the railroad extends north- ward into Plumas County, reaching Beckwith, on the Western Pacific, and continuing to Portola, the terminus, a distance of 45 miles from Boca. South of Portola rises Beckv.ourth Peak. From the town the Western Pacific mounts the Sierras, passing Hawley (7) and Chilcoot (12) and through the Beckwourth Pass into Las- sen County. LASSEN COUNTY, in the California highlands, has an area of 4,531 square miles; the population in 1910 was 4,802. Much of the surface is mountainous, but there are several fer- tile valleys where agriculture and stock-raising are carried on, the chief being Honey Lake Valley, Big Valley and Long Valley. The lakes of Lassen County are numerous, the largest being Honey Lake and Eagle Lake. The hunting and fishing in the mountains are excellent. The principal indus- tries are farming, stock-raising and dairying. The county was nained for Peter Lassen, one of General Fremont's guides and a famous frontiersman and pioneer. More concerning Lassen County is given in the next route. T'he Western Pacific line runs northeast from Chilcoot through Red Rock (12), and Constantia (4) to Omira (2), and thence to Doyle (5). From this place it continues north until it crosses the line of the Nevada-California-Oregon Railway, where it turns east to Calneva (15). Soon after leaving this place it crosses into Nevada, continuing across that state to Salt Lake City, Utah. 22. Plumas Junction to Alturas The line of the Nevada-California-Oregon Railway (Sierra & Mohawk Railway) runs from Reno, Nevada, into the north- eastern counties of California, crossing the line into Oregon at Lakeview. This route may be taken from Reno (reached by the Southern Pacific Ogden Route) or from a number of stations along the Western Pacific line (described above), as the two lines run parallel for some distance. Beckwith is an important point of transfer from the Western Pacific lines to those of the Nevada-California-Oregon Railway, but 247 there are other stations at which the change may he made, such as Portola, Clio and Doyle. The line runs from Reno to Purdy (28), in the northeast corner of Sierra Couniy, California, thence continuing along the Western Pacific route to Portola, Clairville and Clio, the end of this branch. From Plumas Junction the main line continues north through Chat (4) to Doyle (19). At Doyle the railroad veers to the east, while the main county road runs along the west side of Honey Lake to Susanville. The railway from Doyle, after passing Liegan (6) trav- erses the eastern side of Honey Lake Valley, to Amedee (16), on Honey Lake. The lake has an elevation of 3,940 feet above sea-level. Its surface area is 64,000 acres. The fertile Honey Lake Valley lies about it, containing an area of 380,000 acres. Alfalfa is grown and exported on a large scale and fruits and vegetables (including sugar beets) are produced as well. This territory was settled early in the history of the state and it experienced various political vicissitudes before it was incorporated as part of Lassen County. In 1864 it was the scene of an armed struggle between the people of Nevada and those of Plumas County, California, in which blood was shed on both sides. Tlie scenery around Honey Lake is noteci for its beauty, the surrounding hills and mountains rising to 8,000 feet above sea-level. AMEDEE is the center of the extensive sheep and wool industry covering a wide territory to the north and east. There are a number of boiling mineral springs here of medicinal value. From Amedee the railroad runs northwest to Hot Springs (Purser) (5), where there are more mineral springs. East of this place rises Hot Springs Peak (7,000 feet). From Hot Springs a road runs northwest by way of Standish (8) and Johnstonville (9), along the course of the Susan River to Susanville (5). SUSANVILLE is the county seat of Lassen County and is the principal place of that region, having a population of 1,500. It has electric lights, waterworks, a good sewer sys- tem, concrete sidewalks, improved streets, good schools, two prosperous banks, a fine fireproof theater and three good ho- tels. Tourists are attracted by hunting and fishing" in the mountains and waters, near at hand. The railroad extends from Hot Springs through the town of Murray (6) and Secret Valley (9) to Horse Lake Station (131/^). The scenery in the vicinity of Horse Lake is beauti- 248 ful, with Fredonia Peak (7,995 feet) towering above. From Horse Lake the route runs through the towns of Ravendale (3 2) and Termo (5) to Madeline (14). These towns are sit- uated on the extensive Madeline Plains, a great stock-raising country. To the east of the plains rise McDonald Peak (7,954), Hat Peak (7,676), Observation Peak (8,009) and Shinn's Peak (7,000). To the north is South Fork Peak (7,40'6). Ftom Madeline the railroad runs north to Likely, in Mo- doc County, crossing the county line some miles before reach- ing that place. MODOC COUNTY, in the extreme north- eastern corner of California, has an area of 3,823 square miles. The population in 1910 was 6,191. Farming is car- ried on in the many fertile valleys, as well as dairying and stock-raising. About one-half the area is occupied by the lava bed section. The county is well known for its big game. There is hunting for bear, mountain lions (panthers), wolves, deer and antelope. From Likely (population 75) the road runs through Bay- leys (5) and Meridian (5) to Alturas (9), the county seat. ALTURAS had a population of 916 in 1910; at the present the population is about 1,200. (Hotel Morse, A. P.) The high school is an imposing stone building (cost $40,000) ; there is also an excellent public library. Near here is Rattle- snake Butte (4,973 feet). From Alturas a road leads south- west along the picturesque Pitt River, past the Hot Springs to Canby; from there a road leads south, through a mining region, to Adin, the chief town of Big Valley, near the Lassen County line. The population is 200. From here a road leads to Lookout, whence another road leads north across the county, through Happy Camp and Straw to Cornell, on Tule Lake (Rhett Lake). In this region there are hundreds of caves, some of which reach 2,000 feet into the hills; most of them contain ice-pits. In one of these are ancient Indian hieroglyphics. Near here also are the noted Modoc lava beds and Glass Mountains, where one can toss volcanic rocks as big as a horse, so light in weight are they. TTie region is be- coming popular with tourists. It was in the caverns and crevices of this lava bed that the Modoc Indians, under Cap- tain Jack, so long resisted the soldiers. Near Tule Lake is Clear Lake, to the north of which is the town of Clear Lake, while to the east is Steele Swamp. From Alturas the railroad continues northeast twenty miles to Davis Creek (population 150) on Goose Lake. This body of water, with its northern portion in Oregon, is 40 miles long; its surface is 4,800 feet above sea-level. From Davis Creek the railroad leads .along the shore twenty miles 249 to Pine Creek (population oOO), on the California-Oregon line. The terminus of the route is at Lakeview, Oregon (14). From Alturas a road leads east across the Warner Range into the fertile Surprise Valley. The principal peaks are Eagle Peak (9,934). Warren Peak (9,665), Cedar Peak (8,304), Fandango Peak (7,840) and Bidwell Peak (8,531). Surprise Valle}"- is 60 miles long. In it are situated the Upper, Middle and Lower Alkali Lakes, all of considerable size. Ccdar- ville, on Middle Lake, has a population of 500. South of it is Eagleville, with a population of 150, and to the north Lake City, a town of about the same size, near Upper Lake. Fort Bidwell, in the northern part of Surprise Valley, has a popu- lation of 200. At the Indian school and reservation here are the survivors of the once numerous Piute tribe. Near here, at Hoag, are several gold mines of recent development. Cow- head Lake (Pelican Lake) is northeast of Fort Bidwell. The mountains on the east of Surprise Valley are called the Forty-nine Range, or Colman Mountains. 23. Sacramento to Truckee and Nevada Line This route is that followed by travelers leaving California for the east or by those wishing to reach Lake T'ahoe. The latter change at Truckee to the line of the Lake Tahoe Rail- way and Transportation Company. From Sacramento the railroad (Ogden Route of the Southern Pacific) runs through Elvas (3), Benali (3) and Antelope (8) into Placer County, reaching Roseville (4). PLACER COUNTY embraces a region of varied topography including valley, foothill and mountain land. It is about 100 miles long from east to west and varies in width from 10 to 30 miles; the total area is 1,395 square miles. The pop- ulation of Placer County in 1910 was 18,237. The resources are varied and include farming and fruit-raising in the valley and foothill districts, lumbering, mining and stock-raising. There are extensive granite quarries in the county, producing a high grade of stone; these are around Rocklin and Penryn. The scenic features of Placer County appeal strongly to tourists. In the mountains is scenery which vies in grandeur with the Alps; in the eastern section of Placer and El Dorado counties is the famous Lake Tahoe, much sought by travelers 250 and tourists. In the mountain atreams and lakes the angler will find sport fit for a king and the hunter has not far to seek to find grouse, valley and mountain quail, doves, wild pigeons and deer; if he is out for big game, he may find bear and mountain lions in the higher Sierras. Part of Lake Tahoe is in the state of Nevada. ROSEVILLE, the first place of importance in Placer County entered on this route, is a city of 2,608 people. (Hotel Barker, E. P. 50 cents up.) It is the center of a fertile farm- ing and fruit section, in which plums, cherries, almonds, grapes and berries bear abundantly. Roseville is the freight terminal of the Southern Pacific Company . and is important as a railroad center; the lines of the Shasta Route run from this point to the northwest (see Route 12), while the lines of the Ogden Route continue northeast. Following this route, the traveler passes the little towns of Rocklin (4), Loomis (3) and Penryn (3). At Rocklin and Penryn are large gran- ite quarries, the finished product ranking in excellence with the best produced in the New England states. These towns in the foothill orchard region, the soil being for the most part decomposed granite, especially adapted to the growing of peaches. Near Loomis is the government experimental sta- tion for fig raising; fig trees thrive in this region, producing large crops and requiring no irrigation. After passing Penryn, the town of NEWCASTLE (3) is reached. This is one of the largest shipping points for fresh fruit in California, peaches and plums being the main ex- ports. There are large orchards of other fruits, however, be- sides extensive berry fields. The largest cherry trees in the world are near Newcastle, one of them yielding over 3, 000 pounds in a single season. From Newcastle the railroad runs to Auburn (5). AUBURN, the county seat of Placer County, is a pretty little city of 2,376 people (census of 1910), situated in the midst of the foothills. (Conroy Pouse. $2 up; Freeman Ho- tel, $1.50 to $2.50). The surrounding country is one vast or- chard, cherries and plums being especially adapted to the soils of this locality. One of the largest model olive orchards of the state is here. The city has attractive parks, homes and public buildings. The railroad continues beyond Auburn to Bowman (3), where there are large berry ranches, and thence to Clipper Gap (4), another town in the orchard region, with manufacturing interests, including large powder works. From Clipper Gap the route extends to APPLEGATE (3), the center of another fruit-growing region. Less than a mile from Applegate is Walmond, a popular health and recreation resort 251 (see advertising pages). Walmond is situated in the hills at an elevation of 2,000 feet; for the accommodation of guests there are a swimming tank and amusement pavilion The surrounding region is picturesque; from Pine Crest, an observation platform built in the tallest tree on the highest summit of the neighborhood, there may bo had a sweeping view of the mountains and valleys for miles in every direc- tion. From Applegate the traveler passes through Lander (5) to Colfax (3). COLFAX, the largest town in this section of the county, is a prosperous community in the midst of a fertile fruit-growing district. (Gillen House, $1.25 up; Mountain View House, $1.50 up.) The soil of this region is particularly adapted to the raising of Hungarian prunes, Bartlett pears and flame Tokay grapes. From Colfax the Nevada County Narrow Gauge Rail- road runs northward into Nevada County, reaching Grass Valley and Nevada City. This delightful side trip is over a route of great scenic attractions. It is described fully in Section a under this route, Colfax to Nevada City. Another region which is accessible from Colfax by road is the mining district to the southeast. One of the principal towns of this region is FOREST HILL, on the Forest Hill Divide, an old mining and timber district. (Forest Hotel, $1.) Mining, once the principal resource of Placer County (as evidenced by its name), is still carried on extensively, the production of gold in 1910 amounting to almost $260,000. It is estimated that the total amount of gold taken out of the county since the discoveT of the precious metal at Auburn, May 16, 1848, is over $75,000,000. Among the mining towns reached from Colfax are Iowa Hill, Westville, Bath, Michigan Bluff and Last Chance — all on the Forest Hill Divide. This region con- tains much beautiful scenery, with hundreds of rushing mountain streams and forests of white, yellow and sugar pines, spruce, madronas and several varieties of oaks. Thou- sands of sheep fatten in the grasslands of the Divide every summer. From Colfax the main line continues through Gold Run (10) and Dutch Flat (2), places which were formerly mining centers. When the legislation against hydraulic mining put a stop to the mining industry of this region, the miners turned farmers and planted the acres around these towns with fruit trees, mainly apples and pears, and now foraa prosperous agricultural communities. Beyond Dutch Flat u> Alta (2), where there is a beautiful lake, on the shores of whicn are many fine summer homes. Owing to the late snows in 252 this region, the apple here attains a crispness which rivals that of the best fruit on the Pacific Coast. Beyond Alta the railroad runs through a succession of small mountain towns, most of them established in the early days of the state's history; this was the route of one of the early emigrant trails from the East. From Alta the route extends through Towle (1), Midas (4), Blue Canyon (5), Fulda (3), Emigrant Gap (2) and Yuba Pass (4) to Cisco (5). (Cisco Hotel, A. P. $2.) After leaving Emigrant Gap the railroad enters Nevada County, then runs southward again into Placer County, and as far as the city of Truckee runs along the boundary line between the two counties. From Cisco the route passes through Tam.arack (3), Spruce (4), and Summit (6) to Lake View (3). From here can be seen beautiful Donner Lake, in Nevada County. It is one of the most picturesque alpine lakes of California. In 1846 a body of emigrants, known as the Donner party, perished in the snow near the shores of the lake, to which the name of their leader has been given. The railroad passes over the summit of Donner Pass, through which led one of the early overland trails to the mines, and Truckee, 11 miles from Lake View, is reached after passing through a long tunnel. TRUCKEE, a town with a population of 1,600, is situated in the Truckee Basin (Nevada County), at an elevation of 5,818 feet. (New Whitney Hotel, $2.) The chief industries in this region are lumbering, stock-raising, ice-cutting and dairying. In and around Truckee there are natural ice-plants with a producing capacity of 200,000 tons; 1,100 men are em- ployed during the ice harvest. Truckee is also a great lum- ber center and is an important railroad town. At Hobart Mills, near Truckee, there are immense saw mills. The Lake Tahoe Railway and Transportation Company runs south from Truckee to Tahoe, on the shores of Lake Tahoe. This is a side trip from the main line which no tour- ist of California should omit to take. Lake Tahoe is one of the jewels in California's crown of scenic wonders, making the state known abroad as the tourist's paradise. The scen- ery of Tahoe and the surrounding region will be found de- scribed at length in another section of this book (consult Table of Contents). The railroad from Truckee continues northeast to Boca (8), whence the Boca & Loyalton Railroad runs north through Nevada County into Sierra County (see Route 21). (Boca Hotel and Annex, A. P. $2.50 up.) The main line from Boca runs through Floriston (7), where there are great paper mills, to Calvada (6) and thence over into Nevada. The line con- 253 linues through Verdi (3) to Reno (11), and thence to the east by way of Ogden. (a) Colfax to Nevada City From Colfax the Nevada County Narrow Gauge Railroad runs north across the county line into Nevada County, reach- ing Chicago Park (5). NEVADA COUNTY has an area of 974 square miles. The population in 1910 was 14,955. The prin- cipal occupations are farming, dairying, stock-raising, fruit- growing and mining. Since 1S49 this county has produced over $275,000,0'00 from its gold mines and one-tenth of the population is employed in mining. Agricultural resources are being developed rapidly. The scenery of the county is famous, with its rivers, mountains and forests of pine, fir and cedar. There are many lakes in the high Sierras, among them beautiful Donner Lake, near Truckee. Copper, silver, lead and grraiite are important minerals produced. The larg- est nugget ever found in America, valued at $50,000, came from Remington Hill, Nevada County. The Chicago Park section, near Bear River, is devoted to the culture of Bartlett pears, Hungarian prunes and grapes, to which its soil is particularly adapted. Prom Chicago Park the railway runs through a region of great scenic beauty to Grass Valley (10). GRASS VALLEY is a growing city of 6,572 inhabitants. In 1910 the population was 4,520. It is situated in picturesque foothills at an elevation of 2,450 feet. It has attractive public buildings and four parks. A $100,000 federal building and a structure for the municipal free library are to be erected. (Fillmore Hotel, $1.50; New Holbrooke, $2 to $2.50.) TTie city was built by its mines, there being 109 gold mines within a radius of six miles of Grass Valley. The quartz mining is of unfailing interest to the tourist and no- where can it be seen to better advantage than in Nevada County. The Empire Mine, in Grass Valley, is the oldest con- tinuously worked mine in California. The region about the city is developing as well along agricultural lines, and dairy- ing is becoming an important industry. An electric railway runs from Grass Valley, through Gold Flat, a busy farming center, to its sister community, NEVADA CITY (5). (National Hotel and Annex, A. P. $2 up). This is the county seat and has a population of 3,280; in 1910 it had 2,689 people. The Court House here is an imposing build- ing, costing $100,000. The free public library, with 4,000 vol- umes, and the high school are other attractive structures. 254 Nevada City has an attractive situation in the hills, at 2,580 feet elevation; Deer Creek runs through the heart of the city. Within a five-mile radius of Nevada City there are 119 gold mines, Nevada City and Grass Valley are the centers of the sys- tem of roads by Avhich outlying parts of Nevada County are reached. One road from Grass Valley runs through Rough and Ready (4) to Smartsville, in Yuba County, whence a road runs to Marysville. Another road continues northeast from Grass Valley along the San Juan Ridge across the south fork of the Yuba River to the towns of North Columbia, In a promising agricultural region, and Bloomfield, with a population of 497, Near Bloomfield is the largest hydraulic mine in the world. Prom here the road continues through Moore's Flat, 20 miles from Nevada City, at the northern end of the ridge, with an elevation of 4,100 feet. Thence the route leads through Graniteville (11), a mining town, past Bowman Lake into Sierra County, continuing past Webber Lake, to Verdi, over the Nevada border and reaching Reno (10 miles from Verdi). Other roads lead from Nevada City to Spenceville (pop- ulation 146) and to Lowell Hill, EYeneh Corral, Birdville and Sweetland, all mountain towns on the San Juan Ridge. North San Juan, on this ridge at an elevation of 2,100 feet, is an old mining center with a population of 400. 24. San Francisco to Stockton The trip from San Francisco to Stockton may be made over four lines of railroad and by two general routes. The Southern Pacific line running along the shores of the Bay of San Francisco and thence southeastward to Stockton has been described in Route 11; as far as Port Costa this follows the route to Sacramento, thence it leaves the main line and continues through Tracy and Lathrop to Stockton; this latter part of the journey is described as a side trip from Port Costa to Stockton (Route 12a). The lines of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe follow the same general route as the Southern Pacific lines as far as Antioch, when they turn to- Avards Stockton by a slightly more direct route, running through Oakley (6), Knightsen (4), Orwood (6), Middle River (1) and Holt (6). 255 The southern route to Stockton is followed by the Western Pacific and by a line of the Southern Pacific. The two lines cover practically the same territory. The distances between stations given below are on the Southern Pacific line. The first part of this trip is made through Alameda County. ALAMEDA COUNTY, one of the richest in the state in point of resources, is third in poimlation, being exceeded only by San Francisco and Los Angeles Counties. The population in 1910 was 2-16,131; at the present time it approaches 350,000. The cities of Oakland, Berkeley and Alameda on the shore of San Francisco Bay have grown rapidly of late years (see Route 2). Besides manufacturing, which is carried on mainly in the larger cities, the chief industries of Alameda County are stock-raising, miscellaneous farming, fruit growing, viti- culture and poultry raising. The land area of the county is 732 square miles, over three-quarters of which consists of rich agricultural bottom lands devoted to intensive farming, diver- sified fruit culture and related industries. The rolling hill- land is given to grazing and dairying, as well as vineyard purposes. The value of horticultural and agricultural prod- ucts of the county in 1910 amounted to $22,371,575. The value of manufactured products in the same year aggregated $55,- 636,755. Alameda County is one of the most prosperous coun- ties in the state, its population and products increasing stead- ily. The county is one of the best supplied with transporta- tion facilities, both steam railroad and electric lines reaching throughout its area. From San Francisco the traveler reaches Oakland by ferry, taking the railroad thence through FYuitvale (3), Fitchburg (2) and Elmhurst (1) along the base of the foot- hills to San Leandro (2). SAN LEANDRO is a prosperous town situated in the center of a rich orchard and garden re- gion, the cherries of this district being famed throughout the state. (Estudillo House. $3.) Every year San Leandro holds a Cherry Carnival, of more than local note. Besides the agri- cultural development, San Leandi"o has large manufacturing interests. After leaving San Leandro the route runs through Estudillo (1) and Lorenzo (1) to Hayward (3). HAYWARD is at the base of the foothills, at the entrance to the small but fertile Castro Valley; the elevation of the city is about ]00 feet above sea-level. (HayAvard Hotel, $2 up; Villa Hotel, $2.) The population in 1910 was 2,746, but the city has undergone a steady growth since then, the pres- ent population being over 4,000; the surrounding territory is thickly settled. Hayward lias modern conveniences; a free library, and a high school situated in a campus of twelve 256 acres. The city is connected with Oakland and Berkeley by one of the finest automobile boulevards in the state, besides other roads, steam and electric railways. (See Route 2a.) The Hayward district contains many productive orchards, the fruits thriving best being the cherry and apricot, but a large variety of other deciduous fruits as well as berries are produced. At Hayward is situated one of the biggest fruit canneries in California. Truck gardening and poultry raising are other industries which go to make up the prosperity of Hayward. From here the railroad continues through Halvern (4) to DECOTO (3), the center of another large fruit and vegetable region. The town is coming into prominence as a suburban residence district and as a site for factories. Beyond De- coto the railroad reaches Niles (3). NILES is a city pleasantly situated at the base of the foot- hills on the eastern bay shore. (Niles House.) There are a number of large industrial concerns located in the city and the growth of population has been rapid. The surrounding country is a fertile farming region. The large flower farms and nurseries about the city please the eye. Transportation facilities are furnished by the Southern Pacific and Western Pacific Railroads. A Southern Pacific line from Niles runs south to San Jose (described later in the route, Oakland to San Jose), while the lines of the railroad running toward Stockton turn to the northeast. The traveler passes through the Niles Canyon, a narrow valley of great scenic beauty,- and through the town of Farwell (3) to Sunol (4), or Sunol- glen. (Hazel Glen Hotel, A. P. $2.) From here the route extends to PLEASANTON (5), situated in a section known as the Amador Valley. The population in 1910' was 1,254. (Rose Hotel, $2.) The town is growing as a residence place; the surrounding country is a fertile district, producing alfalfa, hay, sugar beets, wine and dairy products. To the west of Pleasanton is the home of Mrs. Phoebe Apperson Hearst, known as Hacienda del Pozo de Verona; the residence is a fine example of Moorish architecture and is surrounded by extensive and well-kept gardens. From Pleasanton the rail- road runs through Eliot (2) to Livermore (4). LIVERMORE, the principal community in the beautiful Livermore Valley, is both a city of homes and a manufactur- ing center. (Commercial Hotel, $1.50 up; Washington Hotel, $2.) There are numerous attractive residences. The public buildings would do credit to a much larger city and include a model high school, besides other schools. The Livermore Valley is one of the most fertile parts of Alameda County and is an important wine-growing district. The hay produc- 257 lion of the valley is large, and the varied character of the soil makes a diversity of other crops possible. A branch of the Southern Pacific runs northward from Livermore into the picturesque San Ramon Valley, reaching Martinez and Port Costa; this region is described in preceding pages. (See Route 11 b.) From Livermore the main route continues through Altamont (8) and Midway (8), entering San Joaquin County, reaching Tracy (8). SAN JOAQUIN COUNTY has an area of 1,448 square miles and lies across the lov/er end of the San Joaquin Valley. Much of its surface is rich delta land and the agricultural products are greatly diversified in character. Ten years ago this was the leading grain county in the west, but of late years there has succeeded a system of mixed and special agriculture. The county has 400 miies of navigable water- ways. The roads are numerous and well-built. The popula- tion of San Joaquin County in 1910 was 50,751; increasing from 35,452 in 1900. TRACY is the principal railroad transfer point of the Southern Pacific system on the Pacific Coast. The surround- ing region is devoted mainly to the raising of grain and hay. From Tracy the route runs througii Banta (3) to Lathrop (8), another busy junction point. The line continues on througii French Camp (4) to Stockton (5). STOCKTON, the "Gateway City," is situated near the San Joaquin River, at the head of tidewater navigation. In 1773 the site of the city was visited by Father Crespi, one of the first Franciscan missionaries. The city was founded in the early days, when it was an important depot of supplies for the mines. It has shown a steady growth, the population in 1910- being 23,253; in 1900 it was 17,506. Stockton has al- ways been important as a manufacturing city and is pro- gressing rapidly along industrial lines. Stockton was named in honor of Commodore Stockton, whose squadron operated on the Pacific Coast during the Mexican War. Stockton is the county seat of San Joaquin County, and the splendid granite Court House, situated in a square at the head of the channel, is a point of interest. A block from the Court House is the public library. TTie postoffice build- ing (Market and California Streets) is another imposing edifice. The stately high school, in the northern part of the city, is one of the finest in the state and is surrounded by ten acres of athletic fields and playgrounds. Nearby, with, the main entrance on Park street, are the artistic grounds and substantial buildings of the State Hospital for the Insane, housing 2,000 patients. Stockton possesses a dozen fine pub- 258 lie parks; warm mineral baths, furnished with water from a great spring, are within the city limits. Stockton is only 23 feet above sea-level. The Stockton Channel extends into the heart of the city, the boat pier fronting on Eldorado street. Large steam and sailing vessels run from here to San Francisco, 90 miles by waiter, and to other bay points. A great number of schooners, barges and launches, known as the "Mosquito Fleet," follow the same route, carrying to market the produce of the rich "Netherlands" farms. A trip into this region near Stockton is instructive and interesting, as it is unique in this country. The delta of the San Joaquin is divided into a great number of islands, most of them enclosed by levees. This is fertile land, much of it devoted to horticulture and dairying. The asparagus plantations are of particular interest. Many of the delta farms, below the river level, are irrigated through gates in the levees. Stockton is a great railroad center, having four transcon- tinental lines and various branches leading to mountain re- sorts and scenery. Stockton is an excellent point of depart- ure for the Sierra Nevadas and the famous old mining region of the "Mother Lode." Many attractive side trips into these districts are described in later pages, most of them being made over lines branching from the main route of travel in the San Joaquin Valley north or south of Stockton. The Stockton Terminal & Eastern Railroad runs 17 miles to the east from the city, and will soon be extended to Jenny Lind, in the Calaveras mining region. Tlie present terminus is Bellota, in a rich agricultural district. The landscape is dotted with great white oak trees, giving the appearance of an English park. A branch of the Western Pacific Railroad runs southwest to Tesla (36), where there are large coal mines. The Calaveras Big Tree Grove can be reached by an excellent auto route from Stockton. A branch of the Southern Pacific runs northeast to Peters (13), whence a line continues through Waverly (6), across the northeast corner of Stanislaus County to Milton (6), in Calaveras County. It is a shipping point for Copperopolis, where are located the properties of the Union Copper Com- pany. A road leads from here to Angels. Twelve miles from Milton and Copperopolis is Hodson, where is located the larg- est low-grade gold deposit known. The Royal Mine here possesses the largest number of stamps under one roof in the world. T'he hotels of Stockton are: The Stockton, E. P. $1.50; Hotel Clark, E. P. $1 up; Imperial Hotel, A. P. $2.50, E. P. $1 up; Yosemite Hotel, A. P. $2.50 up, E. P. $1 up. 25. Stockton to Sacramento This route, connecting the two large valley cities of Cal- ifornia, can be made by the Southern Pacific, the Western Pacific or the Central California Traction Company (elec- tric), all following the same general course. The distances between stations given below are those on the Southern Pa- cific line. The railroad runs north from Stockton through a rich farming section past the towns of El Pinal (2), Castle (4) and Armstrong (3) to Lodi (3). LODI, the second city of San Joaquin County, is the center of one of the largest grape- growing and orchard districts of the ^tate. (Hotel Lodi, A. P. $2.) The population in 1910 was 2,697, but the growth of recent years has been rapid, the population being more than 3,000. The public buildings include an attractive free li- brary, high school (cost, $150,000) and two grammar schools. The city owns its water and light systems. A feature of the city is the Welcome Arch, a graceful stone entrance way to the main street; the arch is architecturally impressive, the top containing niches like those of the missions, in which swing large bells; the figure of a California bear surmounts the whole. The surrounding region is particularly fertile and has a diversified production; the leading agricultural product shipped from Lodi, however, is the flame Tokay grape, for which the city is known abroad. There are a number of in- dustrial establishments of importance in Lodi. Excellent roads lead from here in all directions, one of the most fa- mous scenic drives being the palm-bordered boulevard lead- ing through the Christian Colony to the northeast and the town of Lockeford, and thence into the Sierras. The Valley Spring branch of the Southern Pacific leads east from Lodi Into Calaveras County, offering an attractive side trip to the tourist, described in Section a under this route. A short railroad branch from Lodi runs west to Woodbridge (2). The main route continues north through Acamipo (3) and Forest Lake (3) to Gait (3), in Sacramento County. SACRAMENTO COUNTY is rich agriculturally, as it has the climate, soil and water necessary. Fruit growing, both of the deciduous and citrus fruits, is one of the great indus- tries. Thousands of carloads of fresh fruit are shipped and many canneries export large quantities of the preserved prod- ucts. Pears, prunes, plums and peaches are the principal fruits. Viticulture and the growing of alfalfa and grain are 260 important. Some of the largest hop jfields in the country are along the Sacramento, American and Cosumnes Rivers. Dairying, stock-raising and mining are other leading indus- tries of Sacramento County. The area of the county is 983 square miles; the population in 1910 was 67,806, but since then it has increased greatly. GALT is the center of a great grape-producing region and has several wineries. (Gait Hotel, A. P. $2.25.) Prom here the lone branch of the Southern Pacific runs northeast into the mining regions of Amador County (see Section b). The main line continues northwest through the small farming towns of Amo (5), McConnell (2), Elk Grove (4), Florin (6) and Brighton (4) to Sacramento (6). (See Route 11, San Francisco to Sacramento.) (a) Lodi to San Andreas From Lodi the Valley Spring branch of the Southern Pa- cific Railroad runs eastward into a picturesque district of the Sierras. Extending through the foothills, the towns of Locke- ford (8) and Clements (4) are passed, and the line runs into Calaveras County, reaching Wallace (6), just over the boun- dary line. The route is thence through Burson (5i^) to Valley Springs (4), the terminus. From here a stage line runs east to SAN ANDREAS (pro- nounced San Andrays), the county seat of Calaveras County. The quaint old town is built on the side of a gulch leading toward the Calaveras River. (Metropolitan Hotel.) It was founded in the days of the gold rush and once had a popula- tion of about 5,G'00. Its population in 1910 was 1,120. From San Andreas stage roads run in several directions. One reaches West Point, on the North Fork of the Mokelumne, while another extends through MOKELUMNE HILL (St. Leger Hotel, $1.25), once a large mining town, and crosses the river into Amador County. (b) Gait to lone From Gait, the lone branch of the Southern Pacific extends northeast through the towns of Conley (5%), Cicero (3) and Clay (IVz), and crosses into Amador County at Carbondale. AMADOR COUNTY has an area of 601 square miles, with a population of 9,086 in 1910. The principal industry is gold- mining, there being ten large quartz mines at present operat- 261 ing successfully within the county. Stock-raising and farming are industries growing in importance. Most of the surface of Amador County consists of rolling hills, running up to 1,500 feet elevation. There are a number of medicinal mineral springs of recognized value in different parts of the county. Hunting and fishing are excellent, and to the lover of scenery the mountain lakes, valleys and canyons of Amador make a strong appeal. From Carbondale the railroad runs to lONE (6), a consid- erable mining center. (Commercial Hotel, $2; lone Hotel, $2.) From here the lone Central railroad runs through Ran- lett (5) to Mantell (7). A road available for auto travel fol- lows the same general course of the railroad from Gait. From Mantell roads lead to Sutter Creek (American Ex- change, $2 up), an old mining town, and JACKSON, the county seat. (Globe Hotel, $2; National Hotel, $2 to $2.50.) Jackson had a population of 2,035 in 1910. This place is one of great historic interest, closely associated as it was with the early history of California in the "days of gold." Jackson was at one time the home of Bret Harte, and it was in this neigh- borhood that Joaquin Murieta, the noted brigand, began his dramatic though dishonest career. A road leads south from Jackson to Mokelumne Hill, an- other old mining center in Calaveras County. Another road leads northward through Sutter Creek, Amador City (Amador Hotel; Imperial Hotel), Drytown, Plymouth and Enterprise, across the Cosumnes River into El Dorado County. In the hills around Jackson are the settlements of Pine Grove, De- fender, Volcano and Electra. 26. Stockton to Fresno East Route The trip from Stockton to Fresno begins the journey up the San Joaquin Valley, the inland way to Los Angeles being southward through Bakersfield, a general course which the lines of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe follow as well, both railroads passing through the principal cities of the val- leys. The general character of the country traversed is the same. There is another route besides the one described here- with between Stockton and Merced; this is outlined as a side trip from the present one, under Section a. From this a very important scenic route runs into the old mining 262 country of California known as the "Southern Mines." This side trip is described in Section b under this route, with the caption, Oakdale to Sonora. The West Route between Stock- ton to Fresno, that is, the line running along the western side of the San Joaquin Valley, is described in Route 27. The main railroad route extends south through French Camp (5) to Lathrop (4), the junction point whence the line runs to Oakland by way of Tracy and Niles (described in Route 24). From Lathrop the line runs through Manteca (4), to Ripon (6), the center of a large agricultural region. The views of the Stanislaus River about Ripon are notable. From Ripon the river is crossed and the traveler is in Stanislaus County. STANISLAUS COUNTY, lying at the northern end of the great San Joaquin Valley, is enclosed between the Sierra Nevadas on the east and the Coast Range on the west. The valley land is extensively cultivated in grain, fruit and vines. The area of the county is 1,450 square miles. The population is growing rapidly, the census of 1910 giving 22,522 inhabit- ants; in 1900 there were 9,550, The main roads of the county are level and in excellent condition. From Ripon the rail- road continues through Salida to the city of Modesto (7). MODESTO, the county seat of Stanislaus County, is a prosperous and fast-growing city. (Tynan Hotel, A. P. $2.50 up.) The population in 1912 was 6,300; by the census of 1910 it was 4,G'34, while in 1900 there were 2,024 inhabitants. Most of the city's prosperity has been due to the development of the vast and fruitful region surrounding it, thousands of acres being under irrigation. Modesto has attractive public build- ings, most noteworthy being the schools. Their architecture is as fine an adaptation of the Spanish mission style to modern public structures as can be found in the West. The McHenry Library, a new and handsome structure, contains over 5,000 volumes; branch libraries are established in all the towns and rural communities of Stanislaus County. The Court House is another public building of note, Modesto has six public parks, with a total area of 48 acres. Popular picnic grounds are along Tuolumne River and Dry Creek; the latter flows into the larger stream at the city limits. The Tuolumne is of commercial value as well, as steamers can ply to the Tuolumne River bridge, scarcely half a mile from the busi- ness center, for seven months of each year; when the river is navigable there is considerable commerce between Modesto and San Francisco by boat. The Tuolumne is the largest stream in rhe valley, next to the San Joaquin River. The Modesto Interurban, a gasoline railroad, connects the city 263 with Empire, five miles to the east on the line of the Santa Fe. The Tidewater and Southern Electric road runs frequent cars to Stockton. From Modesto the main route continues south to Ceres (4). This little town is the center of a populous district in the irri- gated lands. It has an excellent high school, as well as other educational facilities. The population is 500. From here the railroad continues through Keyes (4) to Turlock (6). TURLOCK is one of the fastest-growing towns of the San Joaquin Valley. The population is now 3,000, though in 1910 there were but 1,573 people here; the city is scarcely ten years old. Turlock is surrounded by a large number of small farms, all part of the great Turlock irrigation system. From this region are shipped annually many carloads of canteloupes, sweet potatoes and other farm products. The city has a good sewer system, and the attractive high school is situated in a park. East of Turlock. on the Santa Fe, are the thriving towns of Hughson and Denair. From Turlock the main route enters Merced County, reaching Livingston (10). MERCED COUNTY embraces a fertile section lying mainly in the San Joaquin Valley, its chief agricultural products being alfalfa and fruits. The dairy industry is very large. There are two great irrigation systems in Merced County. The area is 1,995 square miles. In 1910 the population was 15,148; in, 1900 it was 9,215. Merced County has excellent level roads. After passing through the town of Delhi, the Merced River is crossed. This famous river gave its name to the county, the original Spanish name being "Rio de Nuestra Senora de la Merced" (River of Our Lady of Mercy). As is well known, the waters of this river head in the world-famous Yosemite Valley. A mile from the Merced River is Livingston (10 miles from Turlock), in the center of an alfalfa and general farming re- gion. After passing Arena, the town of Atwater is reached, seven miles southeast of Livingston. This is the home of the well-known Merced sweet potatoes, of which hundreds of car- loads are shipped from this point annually. There are also thousands of acres of peach orchards and vineyards about At- water. From Atwater the route continues to the city of Mer- ced (7). MERCED, the county seat, had a population of 3,102 in 1910; in 1900 it was 1,909. (Central House, $2; Cosmopolitan Hotel, $2.) The city has a Court House (costing $100,000), sit- uated in a pretty park of four blocks. The high school and grammar schools are large, handsome buildings. At Merced is 264 the central library of the Merced County Free Library System, with over 4,000 volumes. From Merced the Yosemite Valley Railroad runs to El Por- tal, at the entrance of the Yosemite National Park. This trip will be found outlined in Section c under this route, Merced to El Portal. The wonderful Yosemite Valley, the greatest scenic attraction of California, is treated separately (consult Table of Contents). The main route continues from Merced through Athlone (10) to Minturn (6), in Madera County. MADERA COUNTY extends from the center of the rich San Joaquin Valley eastward far into the Sierra Nevada Mountains. From the foothills to the San Joaquin, a distance of about forty miles, the land is extensively cultivated and is exceptionally well watered. In the mountains and foothill country lumbering, stock-raising, mining and quarrying are the principal industries. The area of the county is 2,112 square miles. The population in 1910 was 8,368; in 1900 it was 6,364. Much of the county has long been given over to the large ranches, ranging from 5,000 to 10'0,000 acres. TTiese are fast breaking up and giving place to the settler. More than 138,000 acres in three of these ranches were subdivided in 1912. The new State Highway passes through Madera County and the city of Madera from northwest to southeast. It follows closely the line of the Southern Pacific Railroad and is now nearly complete. After passing Minturn the railroad continues to Berenda (10), whence a branch line of the Southern Pacific runs into the mountains to Raymond, beyond which roads lead to Ah- wahnee and Wawona, mountain resorts, and to the Yosemite Valley. This side trip, of great scenic attraction, is treated in Section d under this route. From Berenda the main route reaches the city of Madera (8). The Santa Fe runs about three miles to the north of the city, and nearby on this line are the prosperous towns of Storey and Borden. MADERA is the county seat of the administrative division of the state to which it gave its name. In 1910 the population was 2,404, but now it reaches 3,500. The Madera County Court House is a handsome building, situated in large grounds. There are several excellent schools, including a union high school and a new elementary school which is considered one of the model school buildings of the country. The city is in- creasing in commercial importance, its lumber industry being large. The name Madera in Spanish signifies "timber," the town being originally surrounded by groves of trees. 265 From Madera stage routes run to the mountain towns and resorts. The roads in the mountainous districts have often sharp turns and the grades are steep, but are accessible to automobiles. One road leads northeast from Madera to the town of Coarse Gold, which is also reached by another road running to the south of this. TTie latter route passes through Sesame to O'Neals, a busy little town in the center of a fertile and productive district. From O'Neals a road continues to Coarse Gold, and thence eight miles to Fresno Flats, whence a road continues to Ahwahnee, from which Wawona and Yo- semite Valley can be reached (see Section d under this route). Another road from O'Neals leads northeast through the settle- ments of Magnet and Gold to North Fork, This town is the center of a stock-raising and orchard region. Nearby, on the north fork of the San Joaquin River, is an attractive health and pleasure resort. From Madera the railroad continues southeast through the town of Borden (3) and crosses the San Joaquin River into Fresno County, reaching Herndon (9). FRESNO COUNTY, including its vineyards, is the greatest fruit-producing section of the state. The county has an area of 5,950 square miles. The population in 1910 was 75,657; in 1900 it was 37,862. The irrigation system of Fi-esno County is the largest of any in California, the water coming from the Kings River. Fresno leads the world in the production of raisins. Calmyrna figs form another well-known export. Wine and olive oil are important products. The lumber industry is large, and considerable mineral resources await development. The Coalinga oil-field, in Fresno County, is one of the richest in the world. "Fresno" in Spanish signifies "white ash," the name having been given to the county because of the mountain ash growing in the upland region. From Herndon the railroad passes through Muscatel (4i/^) to the city of Fresno (5i/^). FRESNO is the largest city in the central San Joaquin Val- ley and is growing rapidly. Once a sheep pasture, in 1910 the population reached 24,892; in 1900' it was 12,470. Consid- erable manufacturing has been brought about by the drying and canning of fruit here, and the processes employed in these industries, especially the raisin industry, are new to most tourists, Fresno is a well-built city and has many points of interest to visitors, A number of fine parks and public play- grounds make the city attractive. Roeding Park, owned by the municipality, is a large tract northwest of the city (reached by Roeding Park and Cemeteries car). Zapp's Park is a holiday resort at the end of the Blackstone car line. Recreation Park, passed on the way to Sunnyside, is a beau- 266 tiful tract open to the public. Connected with Fresno by a boulevard, lined with eucalyptus, oleanders and palms, is Kearney Park, 11 miles to the west. This drive is very at- tractive to automobilists. TTie elaborate grounds of the park cover 240 acres, and the entire estate of 5,182 acres is the property of the University of California, deeded to that in- stitution by its former owner, Martin Theodore Kearney. The hotels of Fresno are the Grand Central, E. P. 50 cents up; California, A. P. $1 up, E. P. 50 cents up; Sequoia, E. P.; Hughes, A. P. $2.50 up; Commercial, E. P.; Fresno. The public buildings of Fresno include many notable struc- tures. The imposing County Court House, fronting K street, is situated in an extensive park (bounded by K, M, Tulare and Fresno streets). The dome, at an elevation of 156 feet, is open to visitors (secure key at the elevator); the view from here over the valley is comprehensive. The new City Hall (J street, between Merced and Fresno), the high school (Tuolumne, Stanislaus, O and P streets), and the State Nor- mal School (on University avenue, in the northern part of the city) are other important public buildings. TTie free public library contains over 14,000 volumes. The Govern- ment Building (postoffice) is situated opposite the Court House square at Tulare and K streets. A point of consider- able interest in Fresno is the monument which marks the geographical center of California. It is within the corporate limits in the western part of the city, in the block bounded by Kern, Inyo, C and D streets. There are many attractive side trips to be made from Fresno. Among the shorter ones are the drive to Kearney Park, mentioned above, and to the Riverside Club House, on the San Joaquin River, 8 miles north of the city (drive north on K street, turning into Vaai Ness at Nielson avenue, con- tinuing to the river). A delightful five-mile ride through the vineyards may be had by taking the Sunnyside car at the Southern Pacific depot or on Tulare street east of the depot. A branch line of the Southern Pacific runs northeast from Fresno to Friant, near the foothill district. This branch leads through a continuous garden of vineyards and orchards past Maltermoro (6), Las Palmas (1) and Tarpey (2) to CLOVIS (3). This town has a population of about 2,000. Timber is brought down to Clovis from the mountains in V-flumes and is here converted into lumber. T'he line continues through El Prado (6) to Friant (6), near the upper San Joaquin. Roads lead from El Prado into the foothill district. The side trips from the route just given are herewith de- scribed. They are (a) Stockton to Merced, via Oakdale, (b) 267 Oakdale to Sonora, (c) Merced to El Portal, (d) Berenda to Raymond. (a) Stockton to Merced via Oakdale The line of the Southern Pacific Railroad runs from Stock- ton eastward to Peters (13), whence the branch to Milton, Calaveras County, extends into the foothills (see Route 24). From Peters the main line runs southeast to Farmington (5), near the Sierra foothills. This section of the state is known for its vineyards of Tokay grapes; near Farmington is one of the largest cherry orchards in the world, 100 acres in ex- tent. From Farmington the railroad continues to Cometa (6) and thence into Stanislaus County, reaching Oakdale (8). OAKDALE is an important shipping point situated on the Stanislaus River, receiving its name from the live oaks of the surrounding region. (Hotel Stanislaus.) It is pleasantly lo- cated on a plateau overlooking the river and valley. The population of the little city is 1,800, and the growth of the place is assured by its strategic position on several railroad lines. The Sierra Railroad runs from Oakdale to Sonora, Jamestown and Angels, in the old mining region of California. T'his is a delightful side trip and is described in Section b below. A branch of the Santa Fe, connecting with the main line at Riverbank also terminates at Oakdale. The region about the city is being extensively developed by a great ir- rigation system, making it one of the most fertile parts of the state. Oakdale has a number of important manufacturing interests, a high school and other excellent educational facili- ties. An automobile stage line runs twice daily through the towns of the Oakdale district, reaching the historic town of Knight's Ferry, to the east. KNIGHT'S FERRY was named for Captain Knight, a hunter and trapper, who followed Fremont past this site in 1844. He located here in 1849 and established the first ferry across the Stanislaus. Bret Harte and Mark Twain visited the town in the early days, when it was thronged with miners and gamblers, the latter furnishing amusement for those on their way from Stockton to the "Southern Mines.". In 1854 General U. S. Grant was entertained at Knight's Ferry by his brothers-in-law, the Dent brothers, who owned the ferry after the death of Captain Knight. The old fig trees under which he loved to sleep are still pointed out; they bear yearlj"" their three crops of Mission figs, just as they did long ago. From 1861 to 1871 Knight's Ferry was the county seat of Stanislaus County; the only relics of this former pre-eminence are the ruins of the old County Court House. Knight's Ferry 268 today is a community of comfortable homes and gardens, the territory thriving anew as the result of irrigation. The old covered bridge at Knight's Ferry, built in the early sixties, conveys wagons and automobiles across the Stanislaus where once the ferry drifted. From Oakdale the main railroad route continues through Claribel (4) to WATERFORD (6). This place, on the upper Tuolumne, is the shipping station for the eastern grain section of Stanislaus County. Above Waterford, on the river, are the great La Grange Dam and the town of La Grange. The dam furnishes the water used in the extensive Modesto and Tur- lock irrigation systems. It diverts water into canals on either side of the river. As an engineering work K is notable, being 127 feet high and 327 feet long. The foothill region about La Grange is very beautiful; on the lower slopes are extensive orange and lemon orchards. The main route continues from Waterford to Hickman (1), a town which is about to undergo considerable development, due to the division of 20,000 acres in the surrounding region for the intensive farmer. From here roads extend into the mountains of Mariposa and Tuolumne Counties. The railroad extends from Hickman to Montpelier (6), near the Merced County line. A road leads westward from Montpelier to Tur- lock (see main section of Route 26). The railroad continues to Ryer (6), in Merced County, and after crossing the Merced. River reaches Amsterdam (7). Amsterdam and Rotterdam, nearby, are centers of a settlement made here by a colony of Hollanders and are now prosperous communities, the land be- ing in the center of an extensive irrigation district. From Am- sterdam the road leads to the city of Merced (10), described in the main section of this route. (b) Oakdale to Sonora From Oakdale the line of the Sierra Railway runs into the old mining region of California, making one of the most in- teresting side trips from the main route of travel that can be found in California. The country into which this railway ex- tends is celebrated in the history of the state. Its gold mines furnished capital on which much of the marvelous prosperity of the commonwealth was based. Tlie principal towns reached by the Sierra Railway are Sonora, Jamestown and Angels, but other picturesque and historic settlements are accessible by stage. The principal groves of Big Trees are in this region also. 269 The railroad runs northeast from Oakdale through the towns of Paulsell (10), Warnerville (6) and Cooperstown (3) into Tuolumne County, reaching Rosasco (6). TUOLMUNE COUNTY is a mountain county with an area of 2,190 square miles. The entire surface is of a rugged char- acter, with a large number of small and fertile valleys. In these valleys farming is carried on and fruit-raising here and in the foothills is an industry which is rapidly developing. The greatest resource of the county, however, is mining, the famous Mother Lode traversing the entire western portion of the county. Much gold is also found in the East Belt, or ter- ritory lying east of the Mother Lode. In the "days of '49," the mines of Tuolumne were famous, and although there were later times of depression, for the last six years the mining industry has been steadily improving. The second important industry of Tuolumne County is lumbering; the great timber belt is covered with sugar pine, yellow pine, cedar and fir. Stock-raising is another large factor in Tuolumne County. The scenic beauties include many Alpine lakes, the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, Hetch-Hetchy Valley, the canyon of the Stanislaus, and the Tuolumne Big Tree Grove. Tuolumne County received its name from that of a large tribe of Indians, once living on both sides of the river. The population of the county in 1910 was 9,979. Prom Rosasco the Sierra Railway runs through Keystone (4) to Chinese (6). On this part of the route is Table Mountain, a remarkable formation of volcanic trap, 21 miles in length, rising about 700 feet above the Stanislaus River. The top of the mountain is a perfectly level plain. The peculiar nature of the mountain is probably due to a flow of molten lava down the channel of an old river and its cool- ing there. Table Mountain is widely known as the home of Bret Harte's "Truthful James." Southeast of Chinese station is Chinese Camp, an old min- ing town. The stage line to the Yosemite Valley and Na- tional Park begins at this place. This line runs through JACKSONVILLE (5), across the Tuolumne River and along Mocca,sin Creek to Moccasin Creek Hill (4) (Priest's Hotel.) Prom the summit of the hill is viewed a splendid panorama of the San Joaquin Valley. A mile beyond is Big Oak Fiat, an old mining town and farming community. Tlie place took its name from a gigantic oak, 11 feet in diameter, that once grew here. It was under- mined by gold-seekers. Beyond Big Oak Flat is Groveland, one of the important towns of the "South Side" of Tuolumne County. It is a mining and agricultural center. From Grove- 270 land the route runs through Garrote (2) and Hamilton (9^) to Colfax (3) and thence over a toll bridge to Crocker's (Se- quoia) (10) in the Yosemite National Park. The route from Hamilton to Crocker's through the mountains is one of great scenic beauty. From Crocker's there are many delightful trips into the high Sierras. Lake Tenieya, by Tioga Pass road, is 37 miles and Soda Springs, by the same road, 47 miles, whence Mts. Conness, Dana and Lyell are climbed. Crocker'ii is the starting point for the Hetch-Hetchy Valley (17 miles by road and trail) and Lake Eleanor. (Described at the end of this section.) From Crocker's the route to Yosemite continues through the Tuolumne Grove of Big Trees (elevation 5,800 feet). Many trees of this grove exceed 300 feet in height each. The road passes through 'Dead Giant," the archway through the tree being 10 feet wide and 12 feet high. This tree had or- iginally a circumference of about 120 feet, but forest fires have largely reduced its proportions, though it still measures about 31 feet in diameter. Fine specimens of the trees can be seen from the road. In a ravine a short distance below it are the remains of a large tree, now 35 feet in diameter, and once much larger. The age of the sequoias is a disputed point, but this tree is probably over 6,000 years old. Two trees that are united about 20 feet above the ground are known as the "Siam- ese Twins." The Tuolumne Grove contains about 1,300 se- quoias in all. After passing through the Big Trees, the route enters Mariposa County at Crane Flat, and thence reaches Yo- semite Valley. The railroad continues from Chinese to JAMESTOWN (6). This was a famous gold-mining center in the early days and was widely known under the nickname of "Jimtown." It is still a mining town of importance and is the division point of the Sierra Railway. The branch leading northwest to Angels is described later. The main lino continues to SONORA (4), the county seat of Tuolumne County. (City Hotel, $3.) This place has a pop- ulation of about 3,000. There are large lumber mills here, as well as a number of factories. The County Court House is an imposing structure and the county high school and grammar school are other handsome buildings. The campus of the high school has large athletic iields. The great limestone quarries and kilns of the Pacific Lime and Plaster Company at Sonora are of interest. Bret Harte taught school and worked as a miner in Sonora in 1854; Mark Twain, too, lived here at one time. A stage road runs northwest from Sonora to COLUM- BIA, in a rich mining and agricultural district. (City Hotel, $1 to $2; Columbia Hotel, $1 to $2.) In the early days of the 271 state this was one of the largest cities and was known as the "Gem of the Soiitliern Mines." At that time it was prominent- ly suggested as the state capital. The town is regaining some of its old life through the development of the surrounding re- gion. The quarries of the Columbia Marble Company here are extensive. The marble is of exceptionally high quality. Five miles north of Columbia is Crystal Palace Cave, contain- ing a number of subterranean apartments, the larger being known as '"Bridal Chamber," "Crystal Palace" and "Music Hall." The cave was discovered in 1879. On the road from Sonora to Murphy's, after crossing the Tuolumne River, are two natural bridges, one 240 feet and the other 180 feet in length. The upper and larger bridge is situated less than a mile from the road and should be visited. A standard-gauge lumber railroad, known as the "Sugar Pine Railroad," runs north through a heavily timbered region to Sugar Pine (19). The main line continues from Sonora through Standard (4) and Ralph (5) to TUOLUMNE (3), the terminus. This is a growing community. Tuolumne has large lumber mills, and from here runs northeast the Hetch-Hetchy Sc Yosemite Val- ley Railroad, a nPtrrow-gauge lumber railway, 40 miles long. The route is through a region of great scenic beauty. A branch of the Sierra Railway runs northwest from James- town, through Tuttletov/n (5), a famous old mining settlement across the Stanislaus River to Melones (5), in Calaveras County. It was at Tuttletown, near Burro Hill, that Bret Harte and Mark Twain (Samuel L. Clemens), were associated with James Gillis and Stephen Gillis, who gave these Western writers the inspiration for many of their best frontier stories. Twain's "Jumping Frog" had its origin from a yarn invented by "Jim" Gillis. CALAVERAS COUNTY is one of the old gold-mining dis- tricts of the state, situated on the famous "Mother Lode," and, much development of mineral resources is still going on. Min- ing here has ceased to be speculative and is established on a firm and substantial basis, much silver and copper being produced, as well as gold. The agricultural products include grain (wheat, oats, barley and corn), alfalfa, potatoes and both citrus and deciduous fruit. The citrus belt embraces the foot- hill district in the western portion of the county. Stock raising is an important industry, and there are large dairy herds. To the tourist Calaveras is interesting, especially be- cause of its big trees and the quaint old mining towns, associ- ated with memories of Mark Twain and Bret Harte. The name "Calaveras" in Spanish signifies "skull," and was ap- 272 plied to the Calaveras River because of the whitened skulls and bones found on its banks, relics of early Indian conflicts. The area of Calaveras County is 1,027 square miles; the pop- ulation in 1910 was 9,171. The timber resources of the county include sugar pine, white pine, cedar, oak, spruce and fir. The line of the Sierra Railway from Tuttletown passes through the once flourishing mining towns of Melones (5) and Carson Hill (6) to Angels (19). ANGELS, or Angel's Camp, is the largest town in Calaveras County, having a pop- ulation of 4,000. There are still large gold mines being worked here, with about 900 men employed. The Utica, Angels, Lightner and Gold Cliff are the principal properties. Both Mark Twain and Bret Harte lived in Angels in the early days, and it forms the setting for several of their tales, for example Mark Twain's famous "The Jumping Frog of Calaveras" and Harte's "The Bellringer of Angels." The high school at Angels is called after Bret Harte. Stage roads lead from Angels in several directions. In the "days of gold" these roads were the scenes of the depredations of Joaquin Murieta; and later of Black Bart, who signed himself "The Robber Po— 8." The stage route to the Calaveras Big Trees runs north- east through Vallicita, the headquarters of a great electric power company running the street cars of San Francisco, to MURPHYS (7), situated in a flat. There are large lumber mills here; about 100 men are employed. Near this town is the large Cave of Murphys, in which are wonderful forma- tions, among them the "Angel's Wings." Seven miles north of Murphys and 14 miles west of Calaveras Big Trees is the mammoth Cave of Calaveras, discovered by miners in 1850. Here are a number of large chambers and apartments, bear- ing such names as "Odd Fellows' Hall," "Music Hall," "Bridal Chamber," "Cataract," "Cathedral," etc. Near Copperopolis, also in Calaveras County, are other remarkable caverns. The route from Murphys extends northeast through a for- est-lined road to the Calaveras Big Trees Grove (15 miles). The Calaveras Grove stands in a small valley near the head- waters of San Antonio (San Antone) Creek, at an elevation of about 4,500 feet. (Calaveras Big Trees Hotel.) The Calaveras Grove, the most northerly of the big tree groves, Avas the first discovered (1852). A hunter named Dowd was the finder and his story was laughed at by his companions; it was necessary for him to resort to a ruse to get them to visit the grove and confirm his wonderful account. One of the trees, near the "Sentinels," bears the name of 273 ■'Old Dowd" in memory of the discoverer. There are in this grove 97 sequoias from 70 to 93 feet in circumference, rang- ing from 300 to 375 feet in height, as well as numerous smaller trees. The "Mother of the Forest," 327 feet high, has been stripped of its bark, the "Father of the Forest" has fallen, but the prostrate trunk indicates that the tree once stood 435 feet high; the circumference measures 112 feet at the base. The stump of the first discovered tree has been converted into a dancing floor, 25 feet in diameter (without the bark), 7 feet above the ground. The "Pioneer's Cabin" is 32 feet in di- ameter; the trunk is hollow and an archway has been cut through. The "Pride of the Forest'" is a graceful tree, 23 feet in diameter and 300 feet high. "Keystone State" and "Empire Stale" are other fine sequoias. "The Ohio" is 33 1/^ feet in di- ameter and has a height of 320 feet. "The Three Graces" com- prise a beautiful group of trees; "The Trinity" consists of three trees growing from one trunk. "The Sentinels" are two majestic trees near ihe hotel, each over 300 feet high. From Calaveras Grove, a short ride of six miles takes the traveler to the South Grove (Stanislaus) of Big Trees, the greatest of all the groves. The trail passes through Squaw Hollow (2) to the fork of the Stanislaus River (1), which is spanned by a bridge. Above the bridge is a series of rapids; the scenery along the river is picturesque and beautiful, with its vine-clad and tree-covered slopes and its steep basaltic cliffs. The traveler is now in Tuolumne Countj^ The trail ascends the divide between Beaver Creek and the river; the view from the summit is remarkably fine. After passing Beaver Creek the South Grove is reached. Tills grove contains more than 1,380 sequoias over 18 feet in circumference, besides many smaller trees; on the whole the trees are not as large as those in the Calaveras Grove. Among the largest trees are "General Custer," "Palace Ho- tel," "Smith's Cabin" and "Noah's Ark." Most of the trees show traces of a great Are that raged in the region more than 1,000 years ago. The largest fallen tree is "Old Goliath," 261 feet long. The beautiful Falls of the San Antone, 150 feet high, are reached from the Big Tree Grove. They lie five miles to the southwest and may be reached by road; the canyon be- low the falls is steep, its sides rising 300 feet above the Creek. Southeast of here, is the Big Sheep Ranch Mine (5). The Hetch-Hetchy Valley, reached from Crocker's (Se- quoia) and other places in Tuolumne County, is another scenic wonder of this mountain region. The valley has been 274 termed "the little Yosemite," and greatly resembles the famous valley in the general formation of its cliffs and in its waterfalls. Hetch-Hetchy is situated at an elevation of 3,660 feet above sea-level, fourteen miles north of Yosemite in a straight line. The valley is about 31/2 miles long, vary- ing from one-fourth to three-fourths of a mile in width. It is believed that the valley was once the bed of a vast glacier heading at Mt. Dana and Mt. Lyell; there are many signs of glacial action in Hetch-Hetchy. Tlie Tuolumne River here is about 200 feet wide; flowing from east to west between the granite walls of the canyon, which rise almost perpendicularly for 2,000 feet; domes and pinnacles in the surrounding range rear their crests 4,000 feet above the valley floor. The wa- terfalls of Hetch-Hetchy are among the most beautiful in the Sierras; they are largest in the spring, when the snows are melting. The Wapama Palls (Hetch-Hetchy Falls) on the northern side of the valley, plunge down a distance of 1,700 feet; this is really a great cascade, since the drop is not perpendicular, though nearly so. The North Dome (6,400 feet) rises to the east of the falls. On the southern side of the valley a notable eminence is Kolana Rock (5,800 feet), almost opposite the falls. There are many other domes, towers, spires and battlements resembling to a remarkable degree those of Yosemite, though on a smaller scale. Hetch- Hetchy may be reached from Yosemite by horse trail by way of Tenaya Canyon, Matterhorn and Tiltill; also by horse trail by way of Tenaya Canyon, Smedberg and Benson Lakes; there are good camping grounds along the routes. Beautiful Lake Eleanor, at the lower end of Hetch-Hetchy Valley has been suggested as the source of the water supply for San Francisco and other cities of Central California; much discus- sion and litigation are involved and the question remains to be settled. Above Hetch-Hetchy is the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, which is cut from 3,000 to 4,000 feet deep for a distance of 25 miles. Along the course are hundreds of pic- turesque lakes and lakelets and mountain scenery equaling that in other parts of the Yosemite National Park. (c) Merced to El Portal The line of the Yosemite Valley Railroad runs from Mer- ced to El Portal, at the entrance to the Yosemite National Park, a distance of 78 miles. From here is reached the world-famous Yosemite Valley. This is the route usually followed by travelers seeking the wonderland of Yosemite, though there are stage lines running to the valley as well. 275 Because of the importance of Yosemite to California travel it has been described in a separate section (see Table of Contents.) After leaving Merced, the line passes through Bellevue (3), Edendale (11) and Hopeton (15), all in a rich region, covered with vinej^ards, orchards and farms. Snelling (18) is the oldest town, and first county seat of Merced County. It is the center of a rich agricultural district. At Merced Falls (24) the line reaches the entrance of the Merced Can- yon. After leaving this place the route crosses into Mariposa County. MARIPOSA COUNTY is known to the tourist mainly be- cause of its scenic beauties, but it has large resources as well. Mining, of course, first brought it into prominence; the mines of the county in the early days were among the best- known in California. Hornitos, one of the historic towns of -California, was once the most important point betweea Stockton and Los Angeles. Though for the last few years mining has not been followed as generally as in former times, the annual production of minerals has run from $500,000 to $1,000,00'0. Besides gold, the chief mineral prod- uct, the other important minerals are copper, lead, macadam, platinum, rubble and silver. A visit to the many gold mines of the county is interesting, and no less so are the towns which formerly flourished because of the industry of the miners. Now they are beginning to thrive again as the farm- ing and fruit-growing possibilities of the county are becoming generally known. It has been found that the soils of the county are excellently adapted to the production of decid- uous and citrus fruits, olives, the vine, melons, berries, hay, alfalfa, grain and vegetables; irrigation is unnecessary in most parts of Mariposa County. Besides farming and mining, other leading industries of the region are lumbering, dairy- ing, stock raising and poultry raising. The scenic wonders of the county bring thousands of tourists here every year. The Yosemite Valley, lying wholly in Mariposa County, is one of the most beautiful regions in America; its fame is world-wide. The Mariposa Big Trees (near Wawona) are natural curiosities which claim their share of the interest of travelers. They are described in Section d under this route, Berenda to Raymond. The area of the county is 1,580 square miles. The population in 1910 was 3,956. After passing Merced Falls the traveler continues up the canyon of the Merced River, which becomes narrow and steep as the mountains are ascended. The train follows the course of the river for sixty miles through the gorge, cross- 276 ing and recrossing, with ever-changing scenic effects. From Merced Falls is reached Exchequer (8), where the stream is 30 feet deep and pouring over a dam with an 18-foot fall furnishes 500 horsepower for the electric power plant nearby. Beyond here the piles of smooth-worn stones and upturned rocks bear witness to the feverish hunt for gold in the early days; at one bend of the river, close to the shore, stands an object of considerable historic interest, a miners' bank, in which was kept the gold dust panned from the stream. It is a small square structure of stone, protected with heavy shutters and doors of steel. The next station after Exchequer is Pleasant Valley (5) and thence the train passes through Jasper (3) and Kittridge (5i^) to Bagby. At BAGBY is the picturesque Bagby Dam, the water pouring over the ledge close by the railroad bridge. From Bagby can be reached by road the old town of MARIPOSA, the county seat of the county of the same name. It is sit- uated in the old Fremont Grant, given by Governor Alvarado to General Fremont in 1847. The population of Mariposa township in 1910 was 654. From here can be reached many of the historic mining towns of the Mother Lode. To the northeast is Signal Peak, rising to a height of about 7,000 feet above sea-level, the most prominent eminence in this part of the Sierras. From the summit there is a view of the surrounding mountains and a sweeping panorama of the San Joaquin Valley from Stockton to Fresno. Near Signal Peak is the little town of Jerseydale. To the north of Bagby may be reached COULTERVILLE, another old mining settlement, the chief town of Mariposa County north of the Merced River. There are large mines hereabout, with stock raising, viticulture and fruit-growing leading industries in the trib- utary country. Coulterville is on a stage road to the Yo* Semite; near here is the Bower Cave, a remarkable grotto. After passing Bagby the railroad continues up the Merced Canyon past North Fork (6) and Mountain King (2), where there is a 20-stamp mill for crushing gold ore, past Brice- burg (5) to El Portal, the terminus of the line. EL PORTAL, situated on a plateau above the river, commands a beautiful view of the canyon and the mountains rising above it. Here is situated the commodious Hotel Del Portal (A. P. $4 up). At El Portal the night is usually passed by the traveler^ and the Yosemite Valley, with its wonders, is reached the next morning by the stage coaches of the Yosemite Trans- portation Company. 277 ( d ) Berenda to Raymond This route includes the side trip by rail from Berenda, on the main line of the Southern Pacific, to Raymond, whence Wawona is reached by road. From Wawona the Mariposa Big TVees and Yosemite Valley are accessible. The railroad runs from Berenda near the town of Miller on the Santa Fe line and through the towns of Talbot (7) and Daulton (5) to Raymond (9). The country traversed is among the most picturesque in the lower Sierras. RAYMOND is in a large quarry region and is a center for the surrounding farming territory. There are two great granite quarry companies operating about Raymond, each doing a business of about $1,000,000 yearly. About 500 men are employed in the quarries. The granite from this sec- tion is said to excel all other American granite, except that of Vermont, which has made tliat state famous. Among the large buildings in California built of Raymond granite are the San Francisco Postoffice, the Custom House, the Fairmont Hotel in San Francisco and several buildings of the Univer- sity of California in Berkeley. From Raymond a road accessible to automobiles leads northeast to Wawona, at the southern entrance to the Yosem- ite National Park. This road, with grades running up to 18 per cent, passes from Raymond through Grub Gulch (12) to Ahwahnee (6), a popular recreation ground, and thence to Wawona r22) by a picturesque route. WAWONA is situated on the south fork of the Merced River at an elevation of 4,000 feet. The Wawona Hotel (rates, $3.50 to $4.50 per day) accommodates tourists and is a popular resort. The surroundings are beautiful, the forests abounding with game and the streams with fish, making this a sportsman's paradise. Wawona for forty years has been a favorite recreation ground of those visiting the Yosemite region. A stage line runs regularly from Wawona to El Portal, by way of Inspiration Point, and BridaJ Veil Falls, there connecting with the Yosemite Valley Railroad (see Section c under this route). Another stage line runs to the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees. The Mariposa Big Trees, situated four miles southeast of Wawona, are among the best known and most visited of the gigantic sequoias of California, partly because of their ac- cessibility, and also because of their many remarkable feat- ures. The grove is situated in a park two miles square. 278 There are two sections known as the Upper and Lower Groves; altogether there are about seven hundred trees. In the surrounding region there are a few small groves, which are seldom visited. The trees of the Mariposa Grove were discovered in 1855, three years after the first Sequoia Gigan- tea were seen by white men in Calaveras. There are a number of individual trees which are note- worthy. "The Telescope" has its heart burned out from the ground to the top. "Wawona" is the name given to a living tree through which an archway has been cut; the stagecoach drives through this tree without difficulty, as the arch is ten feet in height and breadth. "Wawona" is the native Indian name for Sequoia. In the cavity of "The Haverford" sixteen horses have been stabled at one time. The highest tree of the Mariposa Grove is known as "Columbus," measuring 323 feet from the ground to its top. "The Mariposa" is almost as tall. "The Faithful Couple" is a name given to two trees which have grown together up to 100 feet. On "The Fallen Monarch" a six-horse coach with sixteen passengers has been driven with ease; it is one of the most often photo- graphed trees in the world. Not far behind it is "Grizzly Giant," whose age is estimated at 5,000 years. Its first branches are 125 feet above the ground. It is 104 feet in cir- cumference at the base. There are a number of other re- markable trees in this grove. 27. Stockton to Fresno West Route Along the western side of the San Joaquin Valley a line of the Southern Pacific railroad runs from Stockton to Fresno, through a prosperous and fertile farming region. From Stockton the route extends to Tracy (20) and thence continues southeast through Vernalis (10) and Westley (8) to Patterson (7), a thriving farming town which has sprung up in the last few years because of the extensive irrigation development in the surrounding territory. The town has a population of 750, all the people of Patterson having settled here since 1910, when the townsite was laid out. TTie growth of the importance of the community continues, and many sub- stantial business structures are being erected. Patterson has excellent public buildings, besides comfortable homes. 279 Las Palmas avenue, the main street, is a boulevard extending through the colony to the river; it is lined on both sides with palms and eucalyptus. Crossing this avenue at right angles, a mile from the town, is another fine boulevard, known as Sycamore avenue. (Hotel Del Puerto; Welty Hotel, A. P. $2.50.) From Patterson the railroad continues to Crow's Landing (6). This is the center of fertile alfalfa ranches and prosperous dairy farms. The route continues thence south to Newman (5). NEWMAN, the largest town in the western part of Stanislaus County, has a population of 2,500. The popula- tion in 1910 was 892, but the number of inhabitants has grown greatly since the census. This is due to the develop- ment of the prosperous grain-growing and dairying district in the surrounding country. The city has excellent public buildings, including a model high school. Newman is situat- ed 25 miles southwest of Modesto, the county seat of Stanis- laus County. From here the route enters Merced County, continuing southeast to Gustine (4). This town, though founded only a few years ago, has a population of about 600. It is sur- rounded by a large alfalfa growing and dairying region. From here the railroad runs through Ingomar (6) to Volta (7). The tributary territory raises alfalfa, hay and grain, and has many dairy farms. From this place the route runs to Los Banos (4), a thriving valley town. The census of 1910 recorded its population as 745, but since then the growth has been steady; the surrounding region is thickly settled. Tlie name Los Banos signifies in Spanish "the baths." From Los Banos the route of the Southern Pacific runs through Dos Palos (13) into Fresno County, extending through Oxalis (7) to Firebaugh (QVz)- This is the center of a stock-raising and general farming district. From here the line continues to Mendota (8), another farming center. The railroad crosses the Fresno Slough at White's Bridge (21/2) and runs through Ingle (4l^) and Jamesan (3) to Ker- man. This is a prosperous agricultural town situated in a region which is undergoing continual development. From Kerman a branch line runs south to Armona, forming part of the system of railroads described later in the section, Fresno to Bakersfield — West Route. The main line con- tinues eastward from Kerman through the towns of Floyd (4), Rolinda (1) and Pratton (4) to the city of Fresno (6). Fresno and the surrounding country are described in Route 26. 28. Fresno to Bakersfield Central Route This route is a continuation of the journey up the San Joaquin Valley to Los Angeles. It is the one most generally followed, but there are also an East Route and a West Route, both described in succeeding pages. Prom Fresno the main line of the Southern Pacific ex- tends through Malaga (5) to Fowler (9), an important fruit center. From here the route runs to Selma (6). This is an attractive town of 2,500, surrounded by fertile orchards, vine- yards and alfalfa fields. There is a large fruit cannery here which is model in equipment and sanitation; the annual out- put of preserved fruits is immense. From Selma the rail- road runs to Kingsburg (5), another farming center, and soon after passing this place enters Tulare County to Traver (6). TULARE COUNTT occupies a territory as large as Con- necticut, its area being 4,935 square miles. Three-fourths of this area is suitable for horticulture and agriculture, and Tu- lare is one of the leading counties in the state in these in- dustries. The difference in elevation at various points in the county has aided in the production of diversified crops. Farming is confined principally to the western half of the county, lying on the plain of the San Joaquin Valley, where most of the population is centered. In the foothills there are many large orchards, and oranges thrive in the thermal belt. Besides agricultural and horticultural products, there are a number of important resources; dairying, stock raising, bee culture and poultry raising are industries allied to the tilling of the soil. Besides these, mining has grown into a considerable prominence; among the minerals produced are magnesite, copper, gold, gypsum, silver, granrte, rubble and precious gems. In the mountains in the eastern section of the county there is much beautiful scenery, especially in the Kings and Kern Canyons, which are described in later pages under a separate heading. There are a number of groves of big trees in the mountain region, and several pop- ular resorts. The Eastern Route from Fresno to Bakersfield describes the features of this part of the county. The pop- ulation of Tulare County in 1910 was 35,440; in 1900, the 281 census credited the county with 18,375. The present number of inhabitants is estimated from the election registration to be nearly 47,500. TRAVER, the first town entered on the central route from the north, is a thriving agricultural town situated in the Alta Irrigation District. (Hotel Del Gate, $1.25 to $2.) From here the route runs to Goshen Junction, whence a branch line runs to Hanford (see West Route). From here the railroad continues to TULARE, a growing city of 3,250. This is a large fruit-exporting district and there are exten- sive agricultural industries in addition in the tributary region. The public buildings include a free library, with over 6,000 volumes, a high school and other educational institutions of a high order. From Tulare the route continues through a fertile orchard and farm region through Tipton (11) and Pixley (6) to Earlimart (5). There is still a great deal of grain produced in this district, as there once was throughout the entire San Joaquin Valley. From Earlimart the railroad continues into Kern County, reaching Delano (9). KERN COUNT'Y, the third largest in the state, has an area of 8,0'03 square miles. The resources, as well as the topography, are diversified. Kern County has the greatest oil-producing fields in the United States, gold m^ines and other mineral resources, agricultural and orchard lands and great cattle and sheep ranges. The principal crop at present is al- falfa. The mountain scenery in the eastern part of the county is famous for its beauty, especially in the Kern River Canyon. On the south and southeast of the county is the northern part of the great Mojave desert. Kern County received its name from Kern River, which was so called in honor of Lieu- tenant Kern, who accompanied General Fremont on his ex- pedition of 1845-47. The population in 1910 was 37,715, hav- ing increased from 16,480 in 1900. From Delano (population 50'0), which is a growing farm- ing and orchard region, the railroad runs through McFarland (61/^), a dairy center, to Famoso (5i/4), the junction at which the Forterville branch of the Southern Pacific joins the main line. (See Eastern Route.) Near here is a 50-acre rose farm, well worth seeing in bloom. In the vicinity of Famoso are large prune and pear orchards. From Famoso the route ex- tends through the towns of Kimberlena (3), Lerdo (4i/^), Jewetta (5^/^), Oil Junction {2'^A) and across Kern River to Baker sfield (IVo). BAKERSFIELD. county seat of Kern County, is a rapidly growing and well-built city of about 18,000 people. The pop- ulation in 1910 was 12,727; it was 4,836 in 1900. Bakers- 282 field recently consolidated with what was formerly Kern Cit3% now known as East Bakersfield. The city is the center of a large farming, fruit-growing and cattle raising territory, but its rapid rise is due mainly to the discovery and develop- ment of the oil resources of the county. The hotels of Bakers- field are: Arlington; Grand Hotel, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Metro- pole, E. P. 75 cents up; New Southern, A. P. $2.50. The handsome Kern County Court House (costing $400,000) is surrounded by a park. In the Court House is the county free library, supplying books to outlying branch li- braries. Another library (erected in memory of General E. P. Beale) is near the center of the city, and nearby is a notable clock-tower, built in memory of his mother by T'ruxton Beale. To him also is due the gift of a beautiful park of several acres, in which was built an open-air theater of Grecian architecture. In this park also are an athletic field, running track and swimming pool. The Kern County High School, situated in Bakersfield, occupies a substantial modern build- ing; the curriculum includes both academic and commercial subjects. A manual arts department is connected with this institution. A branch line of the Southern Pacific from Bakersfield runs northeast into the Kern River Oil Fields, through Waits (6) to Oil City (3). The Kern River fields were the first to be discovered in the county, in 1899, and Kern City is the oldest oil town. The population is about 1,000. The town is the distributing center of the Kern River Oil Fields. The oil industry is immense, having developed rapidly since 1900. Producing about 50,000,000 barrels of petroleum yearly, Kern County yields more than any other single field in the world except Baku, Russia. In 1910 the output of Kern County was about one-eighth of the world's petroleum production. The oil well region and the processes of refining the crude petroleum are of great interest to tourists, as in- deed they should be, since the large oil fields of the world are not numerous. Tlie other oil fields of Kern County lie upon the west side of the county. The McKittrick fields are reached by the McKittrick branch of the Southern Pacific. The Sunset fields and the Midway fields in the southwestern part of the county, are reached from Bakersfield by the Sunset Railroad. The Sunset Railroad runs from the county seat through Gosford (10), Conner (10), near the dry bed of Kern Lake, to Millux (4) on Buena Vista Lake. Into this lake, the reser- voir for much of the water used in irrigating Kern Valley land, the Kern River flows. There is excellent duck and wild 283 goose shooting about Buena Vista Lake in season. From Millux the line extends to San Emigdio, a prosperous foothill orange region. Thence the railroad leads to Pentland, a junc- tion point. From here one line runs through Hazelton (Sun- set) (3), to Monarch (Maricopa) (2). The other line runs northwest from Pentland into the Midway oil fields, through Signa (5) to Moron (4). This is a station for Taft, a growing oil town of about 2,000 people. From Moron the road con- tinues through Midoil (4) to Fellows (2) and Shale (2), the end of the line. All these are prosperous oil towns in the Midway field. The Southern Pacific branch running west into the Mc* Kittrick oil field extends throagh Gosford (10), Stevens (6), Rio Bravo {QV2) and Bowerbank (7%) to Buttonwillow (3). Thence the line runs through Lok:ern (5), and Asphalto (9) to McKittrick (1). This town has a population of about 1,000 and is the center of the oil fields to which it gave its name. At Olig, two miles northwest of McKittrick, is the terminus of this branch of the Southern Pacific. A road leads west from McKittrick, across the mountains to San Luis Obispo County. North of the McKittrick oil fields are the Lost Hills oil fields, which are being developed. The oil from the Kern County fi.elds is transported by pipe lines to various harbors along the coast, most of it to Richmond, on San Francisco bay. 29. Fresno to Bakersfield West Route This journey along the western side of the San Joaquin Valley from Fresno to Bakerfield is made by the lines of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad (Santa Fe), with branch lines of the Southern Pacific connecting points along the route with their main lines. One of these branch lines, crossing the Santa Fe almost at right angles, runs to the im- portant Coalinga Oil Fields, by way of Hanford; this is de- scribed as a side trip in Section a under this route. A branch of the Southern Pacific runs in the same general direction as the Santa Fe from Fresno to Hanford. This line mentioned in Route 27, extends from Kerman, on the west route between Stockton and Fresno; the town is situated 15 miles west of Fresno and is reached from there. From Ker- man this line runs southeast through a fertile territory, pass- 284 ing throngh McMullin (7), Raisin City (5i^), Caruthers (5l^) and Cando (6) to Lillis (4), a colony town situated in a great Spanish grant, the Laguna de Taclie. East of Lillis, on the Santa Fe (see below) is the larger town of Laton. From Lillis the route enters Kings County, reaching Hardwick (21/4), another town of the Grant. From Hardwick the rail- road extends through Kimble (2) to Armona (4). This is an important junction point, from here branches of the Southern Pacific leading east and west; the eastern lines run through Hanford (3), on the line of the Santa Fe, and Remnoy (5) to Goshen Junction (9), on the main central route, described in Route 28. From Fresno the Santa Fe runs southward through Calwa (3), Olep^nder (4) and Conejo (10) to LATON (5). This is a flourishing colony town on the old Spanish grant, Laguna de Tache, Nearby is the town of Lillis, on the branch of the Southern Pacific described above. From here the line enters Kings County, extending to Hanford (9). KINGS COUNTT is triangular in shape, with an area of 1,159 square miles. The population in 1910 was 16,230; in 1900 the county had 9,871 inhabitants. The chief agricultural products are alfalfa, barlej'-, sugar beets and raisin grapes. The county received its name from the Kings River, in the northern part. The most interesting natural feature of the region, however, is Tulare Lake, which lies in the center of the county. Tulare Lake is a large shallow body of water, and in the dry seasons it sometimes disappears. It was discovered in 1773 by Commandante Fages, when on an expedition search- ing for deserters. He named it "Los Tules" because it was surrounded by marshes and filled with rushes (tules). There is excellent fishing in the Lake and shooting in season here of ducks, wild geese, hill crane and other water-fowl. On the western side of the lake, at the Arroyo Cantoova, was the headquarters, for a long time, of the notorious bandit chief, Joaquin Murieta, and he was killed near here on July 25, 1853. His band numbered over 100 men. At the time of his death he was planning to sweep the state from Mt. Shasta south with 500 outlaw riders. His slayer, Captain Love, cut off his head and carried it to San Francisco and later received the $6,000 which had been offered for the desperado's death. HANFORD, the county seat of Kings County, is a rapidly growing little city of 6,000 people. (Hotel Artesia. A. P.; Hotel Essey, E. P. $1 up.) The population in 1910 was 4,829; in 1900 there were 2,926 inhabitants. The County Court 285 House is a handsome building, surrounded by a park. The Public Library is another imposing structure. Hanford is sur- rounded by a rich agricultural region and has excellent trans- portation facilities, being reached by lines of the Southern Pacific and the Santa Fe systems. The line of the Southern Pacific running southwest into the Coalinga oil fields is de- scribed in Section a under this route, Hanford to Ccalinga. From Hanford the line of the Santa Fe runs southeast through Guernsey (8) to CORCOPvAN (10). This town is the center of a large sugar beet region and has a sugar factory and other industrial interests; it is situated a short distance east of Tulare Lake. Corcoran is connected with Visalia by a line of the Santa Fe which runs northeast through Wau- kena and Tulare. Visalia is described in Route 30. The main line from Corcoran extends into Tulare County, reaching Angiola (9). Angiola is situated in the midst of a thickly settled region, which is progressing rapidly as the re- sult of the development of irrigation. Angiola is the shipping point of Alpaugh, situated six miles to the southwest; this thriving town has sprung up since 1906. From Angiola the railroad runs through Allensworth (10), Waco (19), Rosedale (18) and Jastro (4) to Bakersfield (4). Bakersfield and the surrounding territory are described in Route 28, Fresno to Bakersfield, Central Route. ( a ) Hanford to Coalinga From Hanford the Southern Pacific line running to Coal- inga extends through Armona (3), the center of the fruit- growing industry of Kings County, to Lemoore (5). The pop- ulation of this town in 1910 was exactly 1,000, but since that time it has almost doubled. The Lemoore high school is an attractive building in the mission style of architecture. Le- moore lies in a fertile orchard and farm region. South of Le- moore, on Lake Tulare, is Empire. From Lemoore the rail- road runs through Rossi (3) into Fresno County. The line continues from Rossi through Lethent (3), Huron (14), Stan- ley (7) and Ora (7) to Coalinga (1). COALINGA is a thriving little city of 5,000, supported by the oil industry, the Coalinga field being the largest single petroleum field in California. (Pleasant Valley Hotel, E. P. $1 up.) In 1910 Coalinga had a population of 4,199. Oil was found here in 1896. The city has a large brick grammar school and high school built after the mission style. The oil territory covers about thirty square miles and is undergoing 286 a constant development. Rich agricultural lands in this re- gion await only an irrigation system to add further to its prosperity. Five miles beyond Coalinga is Alcalde, the ter- minus of the Southern Pacific branch line. 30. Fresno to Bakersfield East Route This is the third main route by which the traveler can journey from Fresno to Bakersfield. The Southern Pacific line runs from Fresno to Famoso, where is the junction with the central route. The Santa Fe runs from Fresno through Reedley, Dinuba and Visalia to Tulare, on the central route, described in Route 28. The main trip through the eastern section of the San Joaquin Valley at this point is therefore along the lines of the Southern Pacific, the eastern route joining the central only a few miles north of Bakersfield. From Fresno the Southern Pacific extends southeast through Butler (6) to Sanger (8). This is a mill town of 1,000 people, situated in a farming region. Logs are brought down from the mountains by flumes and manufactured here into lumber. A road leads from Sanger eastward through Squaw Valley and Dunlap to Millwood, near the boundary of the General Grant National Park (see under Kings-Kern Can- yon Region). The main route runs from Sanger southward through Fargo (6) to Reedley (4). This is a prosperous farm- ing town on the Kings River, close to the foothills, A branch line from Reedley operated by the Santa Fe runs northeast into the foothill orange and vineyard district beyond Mount Campbell, through the towns of Darwin (4), Wahtoke (1) and Minkler (4) to Piedra (7). Crossing the Kings River from Reedley, the main line of the railroad enters Tulare County, reaching Dinuba. DINUBA is a prosperous farming and orchard town lying in a fertile region. About 800 carloads of deciduous fruits are shipped from here each year and hundreds of acres of oranges in the foothills near here are now coming into bear- ing, which promises much for the continued growth of the little city. Dinuba has a population of 2,250, having doubled its number of inhabitants in the last three years. There are a large number of fruit-packing houses in the city, besides 287 other industrial interests. From Dinuba tlie railroad runs through Monson (4), a town in the irrigated district, and Ka- weah (14) to Exeter (4). EXETER is a community with a "population of 1,500 and is growing rapidly. The place is an important fruit-ship.ping center, both citrus and deciduous fruits being grown in the surrounding territory. There are a number of attractive pub- lic buildings, including the high school, set in a ten-acre cam- pus; the Board of Trade is housed in its own building, in the Mission style of architecture. There is a fine city park, and popular picnic grounds are along the Kaweah River, north of the city. Exeter has important manufactories, including large canneries. From here is reached Visalia, by lines of the Southern Pacific and of the Visalia Electric Railroa,d, of which it is the headquarters. A line of the electric road runs eastward to Lemon Cove, a citrus fruit center near the Kaweah River; from^ here is reached by road the Sequoia National Park, by way of Three Rivers (see special section on Kings-Kern region). VISALIA, the county seat of Tulare County, is a pretty little city with a population of 5,500. (Palace Hotel, $2.) It is one of the oldest communities in the San Joaquin Valley, being founded in 1852; it was named after Nat Vise, a famous bear hunter of the early days. The public buildings are ex- ceptionally well built. The Coun iy Court House (cost, $150,0'00) is set in an attractive park occupying an entire block. There is an excellent public library, and a new county library is planned to act as the center for the free library sys- tem of Tulare County. The high school occupies a campus of ten acres and there are other schools which rank high. The City Hall is one of the finest municipal buildings in the valley. The surrounding territory is very fertile and has done much toward promoting Visalia's prosperity. Besides the packing and shipping of fruit, there are large manufacturing indus- tries centering at Visalia. The city has excellent transporta- tion facilities, for besides the lines of the Southern Pacific and the Santa Fe systems it is served by the Visalia Elec- tric, running eastward to Exeter and beyond. The Southern Pacific after passing Visalia from Exeter extends westward to Goshen Junction, on the main line of the Southern Pacific (see Route 28). From Exeter the eastern route of the Southern Pacific runs to LINDSAY (7). This is a city of 2,500 population, with extensive manufacturing resources. There are a number of orange groves and other orchards in the surrounding terri- tory. The acreage in oranges is very large and the groves 288 extend far out on the plains, proving that the thermal belt does not lie entirely in the foothills. The schools of Lindsay are said to be among the best in the state for a city of its size. From here the railroad continues to Porterville (10). PORTERVILLE is another thriving city supported by the prosperity of the orchard and farming industries of the sur- rounding territory. (Pioneer Hotel, B. P. $1 up.) There are over 8,000 acres of oranges and 4,000 acres of alfalfa trib- utary to Porterville, the former giving rise to a number of packing houses in the city. There are also large industrial plants at Porterville. The community is made attractive with excellent public buildings and parks. There are a public li- brary and a high school, besides educational facilities in the lower grades. A point of great interest is Luther Burbank Park, a beautiful foothill tract of forty acres, including a boat- ing lake. Porterville is connected with the country to the east by the lines of the Porterville Northeastern Railroad, which runs from the city to Springville, near the forks of the Tule River. This line gives access to a picturesque region. Springville is one of the starting points for the Kern Lakes, Mount Whitney, Sequoia National Park and the Kings-Kern Canyon Region generally, all of which are described in other parts of this book. Porterville had a population of 2,696 in 1910. Prom Porterville the line of the railroad continues south- west to DUCOR (12), a thriving orchard town. From here are reached the California Hot Springs, lying in the mountains to the southeast, 22 miles distant. The trip to the springs is made by an automobile stage running from Ducor. The springs are situated on the banks of Deer Creek, at an eleva- tion of 3,200 feet above sea-level. There is magnificent scen- ery in the vicinity. (Rates at hotel, $12 to $16 per week.) From Ducor the railroad runs into Kern County and joins the main line of the Southern Pacific at Famoso Junction (23) and thence continues along the main route to Bakersfield, 21 miles further on. Bakersfield and the surrounding territory are described in Route 28. 3 1 . Bakersfield to Los Angeles This route completes the valley route from San Francisco to Los Angeles; most of the region passed through in this stage of the journey, however, is not valley land, but moun- 289 tain and desert, the great Mojave (Mohave) Desert lying be- yond the Tehachapi Mountains. The main automobile routes from Bakersfield to Los Angeles are two; one of these follows the general course of the railroads, while the other takes the way of Tejon Pass. This scenic route over the Tejon Pass, across the Tehachapi Mountains, is extremely popular with autoists. It runs south through Shatter, whence two roads run to Rose Station, the direct route (32), being pre- ferred, except in wet weather, when the eastern road, by way of Tejon (43), is the best. From Rose Station the road as- cends to the summit of the pass, running past old Fort Tejon to Lebec (11). The mountain scenery in this vicinity is mag- nificent. Old Fort Tejon was established in 1854 and aban- doned as a military post in 1864. The adobe ruins are pictur- esque. Fi'om Lebec the road continues into Los Angeles County, ending at the southern metropolis. As far as Mojave the Santa Fe Railroad uses the tracks of the Southern Pacific Company; from there it continues eastward, reaching Barstow; the Southern Pacific extends south to Los Angeles; this is the route followed and described in this section. From Bakersfield the railroad runs southeast, passing through Edison (7), the center of a large orange-growing re- gion, Treves (5), Bena (3) and Union (3^^) to Caliente (4). F^om Caliente a road runs northeast to Havilah, in the Sierra Forest Reserve. Thence is reached Kernville, on the Kern River. This road is adapted to automobile travel. Kernville (population 150) is the center of a farming region. The scen- ery in this vicinity is very beautiful; the mountains and Kern River Canyon are popular with the hunter, fisherman and camper. At Caliente the ascent of the Tehachapi mountains is begun. From Caliente the route runs through Bealville (6) and AVoodford (8) to Tehachapi (12), at the summit of the famous Tehachapi Pass. This *pass forms the dividing line between Northern and Southern California. TEHACPL^PI is situated in a rich summit valley, in which hay, fruit and grain are grown and much livestock is raised. There are immense limestone deposits here, the great cement plant of the city of Los Angeles, at Tehachapi, supplying all the cement for the Los Angeles aqueduct, running to the southeast of here. Tehachapi is 3,963 feet above sea-level, the mountains rising as high again. From Tehachapi the route continues through Cameron (9), across the line of the Los Angeles aqueduct to Mojave (11). Mojave is situated in the northern part of the great jS^ojave Desert and is an important railroad junction point. 290 The routes northeast into Inyo County and east into San Ber- nardino County are described later. Prom here on the trav- eler passes through mile? of unreclaimed desert; in many places, however, by means of irrigation flow-wells, the desert land has been proved excellent for agriculture. From Mojave the railroad extends through Gloster {&V2) and Rosamond (7) into Los Angeles County at Oban i^Vz)- Prom Oban the route continues across a region which has not yet undergone much development, passing through Lancaster (4^/4), a town of about 300 people, to Palmdale (9). Thence it extends through Vincent (7), Acton (5), Ravenna (3) and Lang (10) to Saugus (12). This is an important junc- tion point, where the line from Ventura by way of Santa Paula and the Santa Clara Valley turns southward toward Los Angeles. Prom Saugus the railroad runs to Newhall (2), where there are large producing oil wells, and thence continues through Tunnel (4) and Sylmar (2) to Pernando (3). PERNANDO is situated in the San Pernando Valley, which is now undergoing extensive development along agricultural lines. Its outstanding point of inter^'st to the tourist is the, old Mission San Fernando, located about a mile from the town. The mission was founded in honor of Pernando III, King of Spain, its full title being San F'ernando Rey de Es- pana. Established September 8, 1797, San Pernando soon grew to great prosperity; in fact, it was probably th€^ richest of all the missions in California at one time. The chapel, whose ruins are seen today, was erected at 1818. TTie original estab- lishment was very large; the buildings covered eight or ten acres. The best preserved portion of the miss4on structures at the present time is the long row of rooms connected by a corridor, with the graceful arches characteristic of the mis- sions. The little bell-tower at the corner of this row is a feature which is distinctive of San Pernando. The ancient palm trees, planted almost 120 years ago, are of peculiar in- terest, as they are among the oldest in California; the olive trees also are of great age, though they were planted long af- ter those at San Diego. The San Pernando Valley about the mission is full of color and beauty, with the mountains of that name towering above it. There are many historic asso- ciations with the country about San Pernando. Before Amer- ican occupation, a battle was fought near here between the rival forces of Californians under Micheltorena on one side and Alvarado and Castro on the other. Micheltorena was de- feated; in his army fought a number of Americans, such as Bidwell, Sutter, Captain Gantt, Townsend, Sinclair and O'Far- 291 rell. It is said that gold was discovered at San Fernando long before it was found at Colonia by Marshall; in 1846 the San Fernando mines made shipments of gold to the Boston mint, while in 1842, one Abel Stearns sent 20 ounces of the precious metal to the mint at Philadelphia; and the Mexicans knew of the gold some years before that. From San Fernando the railroad continues southwest through Mulholland (1) and Roscoe (5) to Bur bank (4), an at- tractive residence suburb of Los Angeles, and from there ex- tends through Sepulveda (2), West Giendale (1), Tropico (2), and River Station (4) to Arcade Station (2), in the center of Los Angeles. The city of Los Angeles and the surrounding territory are described at length in Route 9 of this book. 32. Los Angeles to Bishop Owens River Valley This route is one of the most attractive in the state, bring- ing the traveler close, as it does, to the high Sierras and reach- ing a country whose possibilities along agricultural lines are just beginning to be recognized. The trip affords also an op- portunity to see close at hand the stupendous engineering work undertaken in the construction of the Los Angeles aque- duct (see Route 9). For automobilists there is no better juant than from Los Angeles northward through the Owens River Valley, by famed El Cam I no Sierra, which skirts the very base of the Sierras for most of its course. This new automobile boulevard is a part of the great system of improved highway projected to reach the varied scenic beauties of California's sea coast and mountains in one great "circular tour." This system, now being completed, is known as El Pasear (see map). It follows the same general course as the rail- road, though often through more rugged and picturesque re- gions, as the road is closer to the foothills of the Sierras. The originator of "The Pasear" is W. G. Scott, who is in- spired by a desire to develop the major touring opportunities of the state, not only as a source of pleasure to drivers of all sorts of vehicles, including farmers and merchants, as well as motorists, but also as a commercial asset to the common- wealth. This is on the theory that by inducing tourists to 292 THE PASEAR EL CAMINO REAL EL CAMINO SAN DIEOO EL CAMINO SIERRA EL CAMINO CAPITAL NOTE- DISTANCE Z0A7 MILCS *"' IN 22 C0UNTIC5 visit a wide region of the interior many desirable people will be won as permanent home makers in California, thus adding to the prosperity of the country. The word Pasear in the courtly Spanish language has a graceful significance, meaning a walk or stroll abroad for recreation or entertainment. From Los Angeles the traveler by train reaches Mojave over the line described in the route just preceding this, Bak- ersfield to Los Angeles. From Mojave the line of the South- ern Pacific Railway Company running into Kern, Inyo and Mono Counties, and thence to Nevada, extends in a general northeasterly direction. The route runs from Mojave through Cinco (17), Garlock (15) and Goler (4) to Rand (5). This is in a rich gold-mining section, known as "the Rand," so named after the famous South African district. From Rand a daily 293 stage service runs to RANDSBURG (5), the center of the re- gion. The Yellow Aster mine here is one of the largest of the coast. It has produced over $5,000,000. Near the mine are extensive tungsten deposits v/hich are being worked. At Atolia, San Bernardino County, 4i/^ miles from Randsburg, is a great field of tungsten. The tungsten mine here is said to produce more of this peculiar and valuable mineral (used mainly in hardening steel) than any other mine in the world. From Johannesburg, a mining town near Randsburg, a branch line of the Santa Fe runs south into San Bernardino County through Atolia (4), St. Elmo (1) and Fremont (8) to Kra- mer (liVz). From Rand the line extends through Searles (7) and Rade- macher (5) to Brown (23), and thence into Inyo County at Linnie (4). The automobile road from Mojave runs to the west of the railroad through Ricardo (24i^), Dike Station (81/^), Freeman (7), to Indian Spring (7), near Brown, whence it follows the course of the railroad to Owens Lake. INYO COUNTT is the second largest in California, being exceeded in size only by San Bernardino County. The area is 10,019 square miles; the population in 1910 was 6,974. The topography is diversified, as is shown by the fact that Inyo county has the greatest elevation (Mount Whitney) and the lowest depression (Death Valley) in the United States. The Sierra Nevada runs the entire length of the county from north to south, the mountains here reaching their highest point. The railroad and the highway known as El Camino Sierra skirt the base of the mountains, making this one of the scenic routes of the West. The principal agricultural land in the county is in the Owens River Valley, but this is very fertile. Mining for gold and borax is carried on extensively, and there are also valuable marble quarries. Most of the eastern part of Inyo County is a succession of mountain ranges, with valleys between them, most of them occupied by the dry beds of former lakes. The mountains of the Sierra Nevada are capped by eternal snow, and their scenery is en- hanced by hundreds of lakes and great pine forests. There are a number of glaciers in action in these mountains. Hunt- ing and fishing are popular in this region, and many campers flock here in the summer months. In the loftier parts of the Sierras is one of the last refuges of big game — bear, deer, lynx, mountain lion and mountain sheep. The great Los An- geles aqueduct, far excelling in magnitude the celebrated aqueducts of the Romans, extends from the Owens river southward, to the west of the railroad. From Linnie the main route of travel runs northward through a desert region, with the Sierras on the west and the 294 Coso Mountains on the east. TTie railroad passes through the station of Narka (6), Little Lake (4), Mabel (3), Coso (4), Talus (41/^), Haiwee (4), Laco (41/^) to Olancha (5), on Owens Lake. Owens Lake has no outlet and its waters, like those of Mono Lake, are heavily impregnated with soda. From Olancha, the main route runs along the western side of Owens Lake to Lone Pine (27), one of the important towns in the southern part of Inyo County, and thence to Owenyo (4). From Owenyo a Southern Pacific line continues south- east through Mount Whitney station (4), Inyo (7%), Swansea (2) to Keeler (31/^). Roads run from Keeler southward, one along the eastern and southern shore of Owens Lake to Olan- cha and another to Darwin, in the Coso Valley. South of Darwin is Millspaugh (Junction), at the base of the Argus Mountains. From this point a road extends to Mountain Springs and thence into Kern County, at Rollie. East of Mountain Springs rises Argus Peak (6,333 feet). A second road from Millspaugh runs to Ballarat, in the Panamint Val- ley. East of the valley rise the Pinto and Panamint mountain ranges. At Lone Pine the auto road turns to the northwest and continues through the Owens Valley some miles from the railroad, though parallel with it. The Southern Pacific line runs from Owenyo through the stations of Francis (5i/^), Citrus (5), Aberdeen (14). Elna (7), Alvord (Gi/o), Black Can- yon (QVz), Bigelow (41/2) and Poleta (2) to Laws (3). From Laws a road runs to BISHOP, the principal town in Califor- nia east of the Sierras (see later). After passing Laws, the railroad continues into Mono county, reaching Chalfant (8). Mono County is described in a succeeding part of this route. The automobile road from Lone Pine (El Camino Sierra) runs through the richest pnrt of the Owens Valley. This valley is 100 miles long and is about 15 miles broad at its widest point. Its agricultural products are fruits, grain, vegetables and alfalfa. The green landscapes of the valley are a pleasant sight to the traveler after passing through the desert of neighboring country. Lone Pine is the most convenient place from which to ascend Mount Whitney (14,502 feet), the highest point in the United States. The best tim.e to make the ascent is in the summer, when the ice and snow have melted from the trails. On the summit is an observatory, conducted by the Smith- sonian Institution. The view from the top of Mount Whitney is one of the most remarkable in this region; from here one can look over the intervening mountain ranges into Death Valley — from the highest to the lowest point in the United 295 States. There are many peaks in this part of the Sierra scarcely inferior to Mount Whitney in size and grandeur. Among those to be seen from the liighway ar<^ Mounts Will- iamson, Kearsarge and I'om in Inyo County and Gillett Peak and Mount Morrison, farther north in Mono. The road from Lone Pine crosses the course of the Los An- geles aqueduct to Manzanar (10), continuing thence to Inde- pendence, the county seat of Inyo County. The township had a population of 702 in 1910. Three miles beyond Independence is old Fort Independence, and from there the road extends through Taboose (9) and Tinemaha (7^^) to Big Pine (6). BIG PINE, a community of 400 people, is beautifully sit- uated and surrounded by a rich farming and fruit-growing dis- trict. It is connected by road with Alvord, on the railroad (IV^ miles). One of the largest poultry ranches in the world is located three miles south of here. The elevation of Big Pine is about 4,000 feet above sea-level; to the west the snow- capped Sierras rise to an altitude of 10,000 feet more; to the east are the W^hite Mountains (Inyo Mountains). The town has excellent hotel accommodations. (Hotel Butler; see ad- vertising section). Big Pine is one of the leading points of de- parture for the picturesque regions of the High Sierras, many of the most wonderful parts of this "Switzerland of America" being accessible to tourists and sportsmen only from here. An experienced guide may be engaged at Big Pine (see ad- vertising pages). Tliere are a number of popular trips through the Sierras from here, one of them being over Kear- sarge Pass to Kings River, into a region described in a later portion of this book; this journey is usually made as a 15 day outing trip from Big Pine. Another trip which is popular is that to Yosemite Valley from the east. Most tourists enter the Yosemite from the west, but to those who love Alpine scenery and delight in "camping out" in the Sierras, this route is at once novel and inspiring. On this trip are seen the headwaters of the San Joaquin and its magnificent falls, the Devil's Post Pile, Rush Creek, Tuolumne Meadows, Lake Ten- aya and the Big Trees. Above Big Pine tower the Giant Palisades of the Sierra and in their deep canyons are great glaciers. The Palisade Glacier is the largest in the United States, outside of Alaska. These remarkable natural features are reached by trail from Big Pine; the glaciers lie in the highest part of the range above the Big Pine Lakes. Accessi- ble from here are the Arrow Creek Falls, considered to be among the most picturesque in the Sierras; near the falls are many fine lakes and streams. Among the shorter journeys from Big Pine is that up Big Pine Canyon, with its torrential 29fi stream heading in crystal mountain lakes; it is noted for its beauty and is popular with summer campers. In fact the entire mountain region above the tov/n is a well-known camp- ing ground, there being depots for provisions, camping out- fits and sporting goods in Big Pine, as well as a garage where those touring El Camino Sierra by automobile can store their cars for a few days and take a pleasant 'side trip into the wonderland of California (see advertising pages). For the sportsman, no region surpasses these mountains; the hunter and the angler alike may ply their arts with assurance of success. From Big Pine the Midland Trail, a transcontinental motorroute from New York by way of Denver, Salt Lake City, Ely, Tonopah, Goldfield and Westgard Pass, effects a junction with EI Camino Sierra in the Pasear. TTie route runs from Big Pine, 17 miles to the north. BISHOP, the largest community in Inyo County, had a popu- lation of 1,190 in 1910; at present there are over 1,500 inhab- itants. An electric line is being constructed connecting Bishop with Laws, on the railroad, six miles to the east. The little city has an excellent high school and a number of grammar schools. It is a usual halting place for automobile parties touring El Camino Sierra and has two good garages (see advertising pages). There are excellent hotel accom- modations at Hotel Istalia (see advertising pages). Around the city there are many points of scenic interest; there are a number of trails into the Sierras which reach some of the most magnificent highland regions on the continent. Favor- ite camping sites are situated above Bishop, and in the city are depots where supplies, sporting goods and camping out- fits can be secured (see advertising pages). From Bishop, El Camino Sierra continues along the base of the Sierras into Mono County (see below), while another road follows the course of the railroad. Soon after passing Laws the railroad crosses into southern Mono County, running through the stations of Rammil, Ben- ton and Queen. The Nevada state boundary lies just beyond the latter place. The route continues by way of Hazen to Reno, whence the central part of Mono County and the re- markable Mono Lake are reached. MONO COUNTY lies on the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada, the area being 3,032 square miles. The population in 1910 was 2,042. Mono is an Indian word meaning "beautiful." The principal industries of Mono County are mining and the raising of cattle and sheep. TTie towns of Bridgeport and Bodie, in the central part of Mono County are most easily reached by way of Nevada. 297 BRIDGEPORT, the county seat, is an old town situated at the end of the Sonora Pass over the Sierras. The population in 1910 was 312. It is on the route of the scenic El Camino Sierra, the road passing along the west shore of Mono Lake near the base of the Sierras. Prom Bridgeport a road, though not in excellent condition, leads to Bodie, a mining town, which is the center of a large mineral region. (Occidental Hotel, $2; United States Hotel, $1.) From Bodie a railroad (B. & C. R. R.) runs southeast to the lumber camp of Mono Mill, passing Mono Lake. Mono Lake, the "Dead Sea of America," is one of the most • remarkable bodies of water on the continent and the region about is of great interest to tourists. The lake is situated in a large basin, with no outlet, and hence is extremely alkaline. It is about eight miles across; its surface is 1S7 feet higher than that of Lake Tahoe. In the center are two islands, one black, the other white, which are subjects of Indian legend. These islands are of volcanic origin and are composed entirely of lava; there are hot mud springs on the black island. Thou- sands of seagulls swarm about these islands, though the lake is 300 miles inland from the Pacific. The Mono Lake region is rendered interesting from its associations connected with Mark Twain, who spent several months here, and embodied his adventures, real and imagin- ary, in "Roughing It." All this territory has long been consid- ered a strange, mysterious country, due to the desert-like terrain and the volcanic character of the mountains. It abounds in salt pools, alkali, volcanic table-lands, hot and min- eral springs, geysers and extinct craters. There are many signs hereabout of recent volcanic action. On the northern shore oi: Mono Lake are open earthquake fissures, while to the south there is a group of mountains known as the Mono Craters, in whose neighborhood it is noticeably warmer than in the surrounding region; the snow melts quickly from the summits of these mountains in winter. These craters are noted among scientists because of the perfection of their formation. The desert about is littered with obsidian (vol- canic glass) and pumice. From near Mono Lake trails and stage roads lead west into the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and it would be worth while for the tourist to make some of the side trips into this region. For mountain climbers the ascent of Mt. Dana, the highest peak in this vicinity, is recommended. This peak, named after Professor J. D. Dana, the eminent American geologist, is 13,627 feet above sea-level. From the summit an impressive view can be gained, to the north and south the 298 Sierras, and to the east, 7,000 feet below, lies Mono Lake, The exact height of Mt, Dana above the lake is 7,215 feet, and the horizontal distance only 6 miles, so that the ascent is over 1,200 to the mile. On the western and southern slopes of Mt. Dana the traces of glacial action are plainly discernible. Other high peaks in Mono county, besides Mt. Dana, are Mt. Lyell (13,627 feet) and Castle Peak (13,000 feet). Along the attractive route of El Camino Sierra, southwa-^d from Bridgeport, there are many things well worth seeing. The Tioga Pass leads from this route over the mountains 30 miles to the Yosemite; the road is to be available for automo- , bile travel. The pass is known for the grandeur of its scen- ery. Another side trip is to beautiful Grant and Silver Lakes, where there is excellent fishing. The main route runs through Mammoth, whence a trip should be taken to the interesting formations known as the Minarets and the Devil's Post Pile. Another side trip from this place is to the deserted settle- ment known as "Mammoth City," a former mining camp. Nearby are the Twin Lakes and Lake Mary, sources of the Owens River. From Mammoth the route passes near the gey- ser called La Casa Diablo (The Devil's House), through Long Valley, Little Round Valley, Round Valley, Pleasant Valley, to the town of Bishop, Inyo County. North of Mono County is ALPINE COUNTY, now reached by automobile roads from Jackson and Angels. The roads from both these places connect with Tallac, on Lake Tahoe. The area of Alpine County is 776 square miles; the population in 1910 was 309, the smallest of any county in the state. Its isolated situation has hitherto prevented its development, though there are valuable natural resources, especially in min- erals, timber and water power. The county has no railroads. Alpine lies in the heart of the Sierras, and as its name im- plies, it is renowned for its lofty peaks, between which are many beautiful valleys. Through these run clear trout streams into numerous mountain lakes or rush down rugged canyons in rapids, cataracts and waterfalls. The scenic feat- ures of the county are unsurpassed. This wonderful region is now accessible to automobilists and tourists over the newly- established Alpine State Highway, which was opened for au- tomobile travel late in 1912. This road not only connects Lake Tahoe with the Big Trees, but also with Silver Lake, Caples Lake, Woods Lake, Highland Lakes, East and West Carson River and many other picturesque streams and lakes, all abounding with trout. The Blue Lakes, though not on the State Highway, are ideally located and swarm with game fish. In addition to the Alpine State Highway, many 299 other roads and trails are being opened to travel, among which may be mentioned the Sierra Bridle Trail, from Yosem- ite to Tahoe, this trail being well established most of the way- through Alpine County, and it will be finished from Highland Lakes to Pickle Meadows, which is the only remaining link undeveloped. 33. Los Angeles to San Bernardino This route is the first part of that followed by those trav- elers leaving the state by way of Arizona. San Bernardino is reached from Los Angeles by three railroads, the Southern Pacific. Santa Fe (Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe) and Salt Lake Route (Los Angeles, San Pedro and :5alt Lake Rail- road). All three of these follow the same general route; in order to avoid repetition, the central route (that of the South- ern Pacific) will be followed in the accompanying descrip- tion; the country passed through is identical in character on all the routes, and all reach the principal cities. An outline of the other routes is appended. Still another way to reach San Bernardino from Los Angeles is by way of the Santa Fe lines through Fullerton, Corona and Riverside. This is de- scribed as a side trip from the main route in Section b under this section. TTie route of the Santa Fe from Los Angeles runs east- ward through Raym.ond (8), Pasadena (2), Lamanda Park (3), Santa Anita (2), Monrovia (4), Duarte (1), Azusa (4), Glendora (7), San Dimas (4), Lordsburg (2), North Pomona (2), Claremont (1), Upland (5), Cucamonga (3), Rochester (2), Etiwanda (1), Wade (1), Rosena (4) and Rialto (4) to the city of San Bernardino (4). The Salt Lake Route lines run from Los Angeles through Newmark (9), Pico (1), Rowland (]0), Walnut (4), Pomona (8), Narod (3), Ontario (3), Wineville (8), Pedley (4), River- side (8), Highgrove (3), and Colton (4) to San Bernar- dino (3). The line of the Southern Pacific from Los Angeles extends through Shorb (7), the junction point for Pasadena, to Alham- bra, a pretty residence town in the San Gabriel Valley. This valley, ten miles broad and 70 miles long, is the great orange belt of Southern California, though the citrus fruits thrive well in other regions. From Alhambra the train passes San Gabriel (2) close by the old mission (described in the side trips under Route 9). Near here is Covina, a large shipping 300 point icr oranges and also the center of the berry district of Los Angeles County. From San Gabriel the route passes through Savanna (2), Monte (1), Bassett (3), Puente (4), Walnut (6), and Spadra (4), all towns in the orange belt, reaching the city of Pomona (3). POMONA, one of the most thriving cities of Southern Cal- ifornia, is situated in the fertile Pomona Valley, adjoining the San Gabriel Valley on the east. (Hotel Oxford, $1 up.) For miles on every side of the city extend continuous groves of oranges, lemons, apricots, peaches, prunes, olives and other fruits, which have made the prosperity of the city secure. Pomona has attractive homes and many parked residence streets, making it one of the prettiest communities in this re- gion. The San Gabriel Canyon, above the city, is a pictur- esque spot which is a favorite resort of picnickers. The pop- ulation of Pomona is 12,-500. North of Ponoma is CLARE- MONT, a little city situated in the orange belt. (Claremont Inn, A. P. $2.50 up.) This is the seat of Pomona College, an institution with many attractive and substantial buildings, sit- uated in a large canjpus. The college is non-sectarian and has over 400 students. North of the city, running east and west, are the Sierra Madre Mountains, with snow-capped Mount San Antonio ("Old Baldy"), with an altitude of 11,000 feet, looming above the range. The country about Pomona and Claremont is particularly beautiful; splendid panoramic views are had from Ganesha Park, Indian Hill and Oak Knoll. From Pomona the railroad runs into San Bernardino County, reach- ing Chino (6). SAN BERNARDINO COUNTY is the largest county in area in California, and also the largest county in the United States. It covers 20,157 square miles in area, or one-eighth of the sur- face of the state. It is almost equal in area to Massachusetts, New Jersey and Connecticut combined; it would make twenty Rhode Islands. There is a great variety of climate and scen- ery in the county; the arid deserts of the north and east are shut off from the fertile valleys of the southwest by a barri- cade of mountains whose peaks are the highest in Southern California. The trend of the range is from the southeast to the northwest. Much of the northeastern part of San Bernar- dino County is at present unreclaimed desert, and although great development of water resources is going on in hitherto uncultivated regions, some of it will remain so for years to come. The rest of the area of the county is fertile, however, especially the southwestern corner, where most of the pop- ulation is centered. San Bernardino County had 56,706 inhab- itants in 1910; in 1900 there were 27,929 people. The agricul- tural resources of the county are as varied as its topography 301 and climate. First of all, it is the home of the orange, and citrus fruits are shipped from San Bernardino at all seasons of the year. Besides the production of oranges, there is a great output of other agricultural products. These include de- ciduous fruits, wine, raisin and table grapes, sugar beets, alfalfa and vegetables. T'he area planted in apples is being in- creased, certain sections of the highland regions growing ap- ples which equal those of other parts of the Pacific Coast, especially adapted to the production of this fruit. The larg- est valley of the county is the San Bernardino Valley, protect- ed against the winds of the desert by a horse-shoe rim of rugged mountains; the elevation of the valley floor is from 1,500 to 2,400 feet. After passing through Chino, a little city of 1,750, whose chief resource is the growing of sugar beets and their man- ufacture into sugar, the railroad reaches Ontario (1). ONTARIO is a beautiful community founded as a "model city" by Canadians from the province of Ontario. (Hotel Royal, A. P. $2 to $2.50.) Lying at an elevation varying from 900 to 2,000 feet on a pleateau at the base of the Sierra Madre, its natural situation is remarkable, and much has been done by man to add to the charm of the place. Ontario is a thriving center of industry. The population of Ontario is 4,500. There are fine parks and boulevards, the most famous of which is Euclid avenue, two hundred feet broad, connecting the city with the neighboring community of Upland. The big avenue is divided by trees into two driveways and the tracks of the electric road running to the foot of the mountains are upon it. Ontario is a delightful city of homes, with a number of important industrial interests as well. The sur- rounding territory grows citrus and deciduous fruits; the orange is the chief production. UPLAND, a city of 4,000 inhabitants, is situated north of her sisrer community of Ontario. There are many comfortable homes in this well- built orchard center; 3,000 acres of citrus fruit grow within the city limits and the streets are bordered with trees and flowers. Upland shares with Ontario excellent boulevards, and the two cities together maintain the Chaffey Union High School (cost, $300,000), M'^hich is one of the largest and best in all of California; the high school is surrounded by a well- kept campus. From Ontario the Southern Pacific line runs through Guasti (4) to Etiwa (4), whence is reached Etiwanda, a pros- perous town on the Foothill Boulevard in a district raising chiefly grapes and deciduous fruits. The railroad continues through Decles (2) to Bloomington (5). This town is on the edge of the orange belt and the tributary region has a wide di- 302 versity of products; the principal are olives, citrus and decidu- ous fruits, alfalfa and grapes. Near here are large cement works. From Bloomington is reached COLTON (4), an important manufacturing city and railroad junction point. (Davenport House, $2; Hotel Anderson, A, P. $2.50 up, E. P. $1 up.) Among the chief manufactures are cement, fertilizer, flour and poultry teed. There are marble quarries here, and at Slover Mountain, near the city, are the works of the California Portland Cement Company, turning out 3,50'0 barrels of cement a day. Colton is the lunction point for Riverside, described in Section a un- der this route, San Bernardino to Riverside. Three transcon- tinental railroads pass through the city. The population is 3,500. From Colton the railroad reaches the city of San Ber- nardino, four miles to the east. SAN BERNARDINO, county seat of the division of the state known by the same name, is a thriving city of 18,000 people and is rapidly growing. (The Stewart, A. P. $2.50 up; New Sunset Hotel, E. P. 75 cents to $2.50.) In 1910 the num- ber of inhabitants was 12,779; a decade before there were 6,150 people in San Bernardino. The city is essentially commercial and there are large manufacturing interests. At San Bernar- dino are situated the Southern California shops of the Santa Fe Railroad, which employ 1,000 men. One of the largest pre-cooling plants in existence is situated here, icing and pre- cooling 25,000 cars of fruit annually. There are a great many other industrial concerns, including machine shops, foun- dries and lumber yards. Among the most attractive public buildings are the Court House and the City Library. The residence sections of the city are attractive and well shaded. There are two city parks, besides excellent boulevards, which run in all directions. The history of the city begins with 3 810, when a chapel was built by the padres of San Gabriel at a spot between San Bernardino and Colton. A capilla, dedicated at the centennial of the first settlement, marks this place. The chapel was destroyed by Indians, and its site was later removed to near Redlands, where its ruins may be seen today. There are many delightful side trips about San Bernardino, including visits to the nearby cities of Riverside and Red- lands, two of the most charming cities of California. No tour- ist should leave California without seeing these communities, for they are among the best situated and the best built in the state. Riverside is described in Section a under this route, while Redlands is described in Section c. The city of San Ber- 303 nardino is a health center of note; in the surrounding region there are many hot springs and resorts. TTie great Arrowhead Hot Springs are located seven miles north of San Bernardino at an elevation of about 2,000 feet. Directly under the point of the arrow, emblazoned on the mountain-side and famed in Indian legendry, are the hotel and completely equipped bath- house. (Hotel rates, $3 to $5.) There are in all 34 hot water springs ranging in temperature from 180 degrees to 202 de- grees Fahrenheit. The baths are of three kinds — steam, water and mud; natural steam caves with an aii temperature of 210 degrees are remarkable features of the vicinity. Other springs in the region surrounding San Bernardino are Rabel, Harlem and Urbita Hot Springs. Urbita Springs Park, situated IVz miles from the city, is a popular recreation resort. It pos- sesses a plunge, a natural lake upon which there is boating, a baseball ground, picnic grounds, many amusement concessions and a children's playground. In the summer San Bernardino and Redlands are the starting points for resorts in the San Bernardino Mountains, such as Bear Valley, Little Bear Valley, Squirrel Inn, Fredalba Park and the Lytle Creek resorts. These retreats in the mountain fastnesses and the upper foot- hills can be reached from the cities within half a day. An interesting trip by the lines of the Pacific Electric system may be made through the orange groves around San Bernardino. The city is widely known as a center of the orange-growing industry of Southern California. Every win- ter it holds the National Orange Show, which attracts the at- tention of the world upon San Bernardino Valley as an all* the-year-round orange producing region. The Foothill Boule- vard, an automobile route which connects the principal towns of the valley with Los Angeles, affords an opportunity for the motorist to travel for miles through the groves. One of the most celebrated of the large citrus regions is the Rialto- Fontana section, west of San Bernardino, and there are sev- eral others of almost equal note. (a) San Bernardino to Riverside From San Bernardino the traveler may reach Riverside by the lines of the Southern Pacific, Santa Fe or Salt Lake Route, as well as by the Pacific Electric system. The trip by the Southern Pacific is to Colton (4) and thence to HIGH- GROVE (Hotel Gleason, $1), (3). This delightful foothill town, in Riverside County (whose resources and general feat- ures are described in the next paragraph), is enjoying a rapid growth, owing to the beauty of its location and the 304 P A C. I F (is E) of tl COPYRIGHT. !9I3 BY PANAMA PACIFJC INTERNAllONAt. EXPOSITION CO. PANAMA PACIFIC INTCF SAN FR^'XNCi General View of the Panama^ San Francisco,; opportunities it presents the agriculturist. Oranges, lemons, hay and grain are the principal products of the surrounding region. From here the railroad runs southwest to the city of Riverside (3). RIVERSIDE COUNTY, one of the largest in California, is about 200 miles long by 40 miles wide, and embraces most varied geographical and topographical features, climate, scen- ery, soil, agricultural, horticultural and mineral resources. The area is 7,240 square miles. Vv'hile the progress of the county has been practically confined to its northwestern cor- ner, which embraces one of the largest orange-growing dis- tricts in the world, and is supplied by one of the best and most complete irrigating systems in the state, the entire western portion is being brought under cultivation from the rapid de- 305 n C E A N ^^^m^ ■r ''i ^ V or ONAL EXPOSITION 1915 )ific International Exposition > (see page 59) velopment of artesian wells. The central and the greater part of the eastern portion of the county is desert, but known to be heavily mineralized with almost every known mineral — gold, silver, copper, iron, lead, tin, borax, soda, nitrates, etc. As transportation facilities increase, mining will become one of the leading features of the county. Three transcontinental railroads — the Southern Pacific, Santa Fe and Salt Lake Route — cross Riverside County. The population of Riverside County in 1910 was 34,696. The beautiful city of RIVERSIDE, the county seat, with a population of 18,000 and an area of 56 square miles, is set in the beautiful and fertile Santa Ana "Valley, surrounded by hills, and is justly popular with tourists. The architecture of the city's public buildings is especially impressive, and is 306 mainly along the distinctive California mission lines. The City Public Library, the Federal building and the Glen- wood Mission Inn occupy three of the four corners of River- side's civic center. The plan includes a city hall for the other corner, soon to be erected in a similar style of archi- tecture. The city high school is another handsome building, situated in the center of a park, occupying an entire block. In a similar park, surrounded by lawns and flower gardens, is the Riverside County Court House. For the amount which it cost, it has been declared to be one of the most beautiful in the nation. While not in the mission architecture, it har- monizes well with the other public structures. The building of which the city of Riverside is most proud, however, is the Gtenwood Mission Inn, one of the most famed hotels in the world. TTie architecture of the Inn is unique and admir- able, with its marvelous adaptation of arch and colonnade, flagged floors and low-beamed roof. The details have been carried out with scrupulous care and remarkable skill; all of the woodwork, the furniture and furnishings of the rooms a,re exact reproductions of monastic designs and some of them are genuine relics. The Mission Inn follows closely the lines of the old missions, being built around a spacious patio filled with trees and flowers, wide, cool porticos, high bell-towers, tiled floors and arched cloisters. There is at the Inn a splen- did collection of historical antiquities. Most interesting of all is the old orange tree in the patio. This is one of the two irees from which sprung' by a process of grafting their buds on other stock, all the navel orange trees in California, over 7,000,000 of them, representing a value of at least $40,000,000. The tree was brought from Bahia, Brazil, in 1870, and planted in Riverside three years later; it is still bearing. This orange tree was transplanted to the patio of the Mission Inn by Pres- ident Roosevelt in 1903. TTie other original Bahia orange tree is on Magnolia avenue, Riverside. Riverside's great industry is the cultivation of oranges and lemons. The city is the greatest orange-growing center in the world, the annual pro- duction being over 6,000 carloads, or 2,000,000 boxes. River- side is not entirely dependent on the citrus fruits, however; more than 10,0'00 acres of the tributary region about the city are profitably planted to alfalfa, while sm.all farms and dairies are numerous. About the city are a number of beauty spots, famous the world over for their attractiveness. First among them is Mount Rubidoux, which stands on the western boun- dary of the city. Across this mountain General Fremont, the Pathfinder, made his way on one of his exploring expeditions. It is linked historically to the days of the Mission Fathers, 307 who passed its base on their travels from one mission to an- other. The greatest of the Padres. Father Junipero Serra, is remembered by the cross erected on the summit of the mount. There is an automobile road to the top ol. the mountain, which is one of the finest pieces of automobile road in the world. From the summit the traveler overlooks the city of Riverside with its thousands of acres of orange groves on the one side; on the other side, thousands of acres of rich farm- ing land in the broad Santa Ana River basin, and, surrounding all and framing the picture, are the rugged ranges of moun- tains, snow-capped during a large part of the year. On a tab- let set into a boulder, at a sharp turn in the drive, is the fol- lowing passage from the works of John Muir: "Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into the trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you and the storms their energy; while cares will drop off like autumn leaves." At the sum- mit of the mountain, opposite the memorial Serra cross, is a tablet of bronze, unveiled by President Taft on his visit to Riverside in 1909, and on the tablet the wording: "Fra Juni- pero Serra, Apostle, Legislator, Builder. To commemorate his good works this tablet is here placed. Unveiled by William Hov/ard Tafc, twenty-seventh president of the United States, October 12, A. D. 1909." Another point of interest in Riverside is the Sherman Insti- tute, the United States Government Indian School, one of the leading institutions of its kind in the country. The institute is situated on Magnolia avenue, adjacent to Arlington. WEST RIVERSIDE, across the Santa Ana River from Riv- erside, is an enterprising settlement even older than River- side. Here are some of the old mission adobe buildings built at the time when the Indians used to come out of the San Bernardino mountains and the Mojave desert and make raids on the cattle of the Mexican residents. One of the houses was built as a fort for protection from these raids. Oranges are grown successfully on the higher lands about West Riverside. Alfalfa growing and dairying are flourishing industries, and one of the largest wineries in the state is located here. Near West Riverside, at Crestmore, are located large cement works. The hotels of Riverside are the Glen wood Mission Inn, A. P.; Anchorage Hotel, $3 up; Hotel Holyrood, A. P. $2, E. P. 75 cents up; Hotel Reynolds, E. P. 75 cents to $1.50. There are a number of very attractive side trips from Riverside into the interior of the county. Among the places 308 of particular interest reached from here are Lake Elsinore and San Jacinto. The side trips may he found later under this route, being grouped as follows: (d) Riverside to San Jacinto; (e) Riverside to Lake Elsinore. (b) Los Angeles to Riverside Prom Los Angeles a route of the Santa Fe system reaches Riverside by way of Fullerton and Corona. From Riverside it connects with the other line of the Santa Fe to San Ber- nardino by way of Colton. The line runs from Los Angeles to Fullerton (see Route 10) and thence continues eastward through Placentia (3) to Richfield (2). A branch line leads from here southwest through Olive (2) to Orange (3). From Richfield the route continues towards Riverside, passing along the Santa Ana Canyon through Yorba (1) to Gypsum (8) and thence crosses from Orange County into Riverside County, reaching Prado (5). From here the railroad extends to Corona. CORONA is the second city of Riverside County in point of population, having 3,540 inhabitants in 1910; the growth since then has been steady. Corona is known as "the city that is different," because it is built along unique lines — the city is laid out in a circle and is surrounded by an immense circular boulevard, three miles in circumference and 100' feet wide. This is exceedingly popular with automobilists and is one of the finest boulevards in California. Corona has the distinction of being the largest individual shipping point for lemons in the United States, though as a county San Diego County ranks first. There are about 6,000 acres of citrus fruit in the colony, with many thousand acres in addition devoted to alfalfa and barley. . There are eleven large fruit-packing houses, as well as a number of other im- portant industrial establishments. The city has handsome public buildings, including the fine high school and the city library, both following classic lines of architecture. The new city hall is another modern and attractive structure. There are six small rest-parks in the city and a large recrea- tion park of 18 acres, within a half-mile of the center of the city. Tlie mountains to the south of the city are rich in min- erals which promise in the near fature to prove a further source of wealth to the city. The heights and canyons of the Santa Ana Mountains, easily reached from Corona, are pleas- ure grounds for lovers of nature. 309 From Corona the line of the Santa Fe extends east through Alvord (4) to Arlington (4). Victoria avenue and Magnolia avenue, connecting Arlington with Riverside, are two of the most beautiful country drives in the world. Although Ar- lington is embraced within the corporate boundaries of River- side, it has a distinctive individuality. Street cars connect with Riverside. Within the municipal limits is embraced Ar- lington Heights district, with several thousand acres of orange and lemon groves. Here is one of the largest and most mod- ern orange and lemon packing houses in the world. From Ar- lington the route extends northeast, ihrough Casa Blanca (2) and Pachappa (2) to the city of Riverside (3). (c) San Bernardino to Redlands The city of Redlands may be reached from San Bernar- dino by the Santa Fe (Kite-Shaped Track), the Pacific Elec- tric lines and the San Bernardino-Redlands motor line in connection with the Southern Pacific. From Los Angeles a Southern Pacific line runs to Redlands by way of Pomona, Colton and Grafton. On this route, three miles from Colton, is Loma Linda, where the well-known sanitarium of the same name is located. REDLANDS, one of the most beautiful cities of Califor- nia, is situated in the foothills at the extreme eastern end of the San Bernardino Valley, in sight of Mount San Gor- gonio, Mount San Jacinto and Mount San Bernardino, the highest in that part of the state. The elevation of the business section above sea-level is 1,350 feet, but in the eastern part of the city the altitude is over 2,000 feet. The chief charm of Redlands is as a residence city; in the sur- rounding territory are thousands of acres of oranges, which make the city a notable shipping point for citrus fruit. The population at the present time is 12.500; in 1910 there were 10,449 inhabitants. Redlands was incorporated in 1S88. To the tourist the city is especially charming. Tlie resi- dences are noted for their tasteful and varied architecture and their grounds are filled with a luxuriant growth of flowers and semi-tropic shrubs and trees. The streets are broad and well kept; there are a number of excellent boule- vards, as automobiling is popular about Redlands, the city having more automobiles per capita than any other commun- ity in California. Notable boulevards are the McKinley, Sunset, Alessandro and Park-to-Park drives. The appear- ance of the city is beautified with a number of parks. The 310 finest of these is Canyon Crest Park, widely known as Smiley- Heights. Though private property, this is open to the public at all times. This tract of 400 acres presents one of the most remarkable developments of ibe art of the landscape gardener to be seen anywhere. The park is situated on the crest of the canyon which divides Redlands from the pass on the south; the setting has been declared by travelers as equal to that of any gardens in the world. In the canyons and on the sloping hillsides grow great varieties of rare trop- ical and semi-tropical trees, vines, shrubs and flowers; there are many different kinds of palms. Tliroughout the park run shady roads and paths which make accessible its remotest parts. Another fine private park in Redlands which is open to the public is Prospect Park, containing beautiful trees and fiowers and a splendid driveway. Alessandro Park affords un- excelled views over the city and its orange groves. The city owns two plazas, Smiley Park and Library Park, both near the business center. In the northeastern section of Red- lands is a new park and public playground, occupying twenty- two acres. The public buildings of Redlands are notable. The A. K. Smiley Library, an imposing structure of the Mission type, has a collection of 22,928 volumes; the library contains the Lucy Abbott Putnam collection of beautiful photographs. The group of three high school buildings contains one of the best-equipped preparatory educational institutions in the state; the largest structure is devoted to the purely academic courses, while in the other two are taught domestic and fine arts and manual arts. The University of Redlands occupies a handsome group of buildings located in a commanding posi- tion on University Hill. The campus contains 63 acres, fac- ing the snow-capped mountains. When completed the build- ings will number 15, the total outlay being over $500,0'00. There are more than 200 students enrolled. The hotels of Redlands are the Casa Loma, A. P. $4 up; Wissahickon Inn, A. P. $2.50 up; Hill Crest Inn, A. P. $2 up, E. P. $1 up; Vendome; Oxford; Alvarado; El Hogar. Many attractive side trips may be made from the city. Among the trips occupying a day are those to Urbita Hot Springs (see under Riverside); Oak Glen and Yucaipa Val- ley, a celebrated apple-growing region, 16 miles to the south- east; Banning and the Indian reservation, 24 miles; Loma Linda Sanitarium, 4 miles; Arrowhead Springs, 16 miles; Riverside, 14 miles; Forest Home and Mill Creek Canyon, 16 miles. Among the mountain resorts located within easy reach of Redlands, at distances of from 10 to 25 miles, are 311 Bear Valley, Bluff l^ake, Seven Oaks, Skinner's and Santa Ana Canyon. Nearly all are reached by automobile roads and in the summer stages run into the mountains. ( d ) Riverside to San Jacinto From Riverside a branch line of the Santa Fe runs south through Box Springs (7) and Allessandro (3) to FERRIS (8). This busy and prosperous community lies close to the hills at the western edge of the great Perris Valley (one of the largest in Southern California, being 20 miles long and al- most 10 miles wide). The shipping center for this entire area, Perris has varied activities, for the agricultural prod- ucts are as many as any one desires to plant — the soil of the valley being adapted to almost any crop. Alfalfa and grain are the principal productions at present. At Perris the line of the Santa Fe branches, one route extending to San Jacinto (19) and the other reaching Elsinore and Temecula (26), de- scribed in Section e following. The San Jacinto branch runs through the towns of Ethan- ac (3), Menifee (3) and Winchester (4), to HEMET (7). Sit- uated near the base of the towering San Jacinto Mountains, at an elevation of 1,600 feet, the town of Hemet is note- worthy because of its invigorating atmosphere and the scenic grandeur of its surroundings. TTie rich Hemet Valley is one of the best supplied with water of any in Southern Califor- nia. Oranges, alfalfa, peaches, apricots, walnuts and olives are grown for market, and Hemet potatoes are famous through the Southland for size and quality. The people de- clare the valley is shaped like a four-leafed clover. The great Hemet Dam, above the town, at an elevation of 4,400 feet, is a point of remarkable interest. The largest piece of solid masonry in the "West, it is 250 feet long, 100 thick and 122 feet high, as tall as an ordinary ten-story skyscraper. It is filled with pure mountain water from the snows of the San Jacinto Mountains. There are more than three hundred miles of ditches, flumes and pipes used in the distribution of the water of Lake Hemet. From Hemet the line extends north to San Jacinto (2), the terminus. SAN JACINTO, situated at the base of the moun- tain of the same name, is one of the oldest towns in the state. The growing of alfalfa and dairying are the principal industries of the surrounding region, but deciduous and cit- 312 rus fruit are also grown on a large scale. The production of lime of commerce for shipping is another great industrial asset. Near San Jacinto also is an ostrich-breeding ranch and stock farm, with over 1,000 birds, a branch establish- ment of the Cawston Ostrich Farm of Pasadena. San Jacinto is said to have a greater variety of mineral and medicinal springs than any other place in Southern Cal- ifornia. There are lithia and hot sulphur springs for baths, with accompanying mud for extreme cases of skin, rheumatic and internal diseases. Hot and cold, they are all declared highly medicinal and remedial in their effect. The landscape of the San Jacinto region is distinctive in California. It is very heavily wooded, resembling the Mid- dle West, with its beautiful rolling slopes and groves. Prac- tically every foot of the valley can be cultivated. Near San Jacinto is the Indian village of Soboba, around which were enacted many of the scenes of Helen Hunt Jackson's rO' mance, "Ramona," Reached by stage from San Jacinto is the popular moun- tain resort and camping ground of Idyllwild, situated on the side of Mt. San Jacinto. From here there are picturesque trails to Tahquitz Peak, Lily Rock, Tamarack Valley, Painted Indian Rock, Sunset Peak, Idyllwild Point and other places of scenic interest, all reached by delightful tramps. PYe- quent excursions are made to San Jacinto Peak (10,803 feet), whence a wonderful view is obtained. A good scenic auto- mobile road from Idyllwild to Banning has been completed recently. (e) Riverside to Lake Elsinore The route from Riverside to Perris is the same as that described in the preceding side trip. From Perris the El- sinore and Temecula branch of the Santa Fe runs southwest to Elsinore (14). ELSINORE, a thriving town of ever 1,000, is situated on the northeastern shore of beautiful Lake Elsinore, the only permanent fresh water lake in Southern California. Lake Elsinore, situated in an oval basin surrounded by hills and mountains, is seven miles long and three miles wide. The 313 lake's surface is about 1,300 feet above sea-level. The aver- age depth of the lake, at the center, is 80 feet and there is a legend of a submerged spring. The lake has been stocked with game fish; water-fowl, especially ducks, are found in season, and the hills and mountains abound in deer and other game. In an air-line Lake Elsinore is only sixteen miles from the ocean, but the intervening mountains shut off the ocean fogs. Visitors enjoy swimming, rowing and sailing on the lake at all seasons. The delights of the lake, the curative mineral springs and invigorating climate have made Elsinore a notable summer and winter resort. The town has a public library and an excel- lent park system. Hot springs are numerous, there being sulphur, saline, iron springs, including among their chemical components potash, soda, magnesia and lime. The water comes from the ground at a temperature of from 102 to 140 degrees. The curative value of the springs in cases of rheu- matism is acknowledged and the waters have also been used to good effect in stomach, kidney, blood-* and skin dis- orders. Some of the richest soil in the state surrounds the lake, and all kinds of deciduous fruits and berries are at their best here. The products of the region are varied, consisting of clay and clay products, dressed stone, honey, hay, dried fruits, olives, olive oil, nuts, poultry, eggs. Citrus fruits are grown on the highlands above the lake. Scenes along the shores of Lake Elsinore are said to resemble those of the Holy Land. Fi-om Elsinore the line of the Santa Fe runs southeast through Murietta (7), from which are reached the well-known Murietta Hot Springs, to TEMECULA (5). This old town is the present terminus of the line. From here can be reached by stage road the Mission of Pala (12 j. (S3e page 179.) 34. San Bernardino to Yuma Southern Pacific Sunset Route This route is that followed by tourists over the Sunset Route of the Southern Pacific. Tourists over the lines of the Santa Fe and the Salt Lake Route leave the state through San Bernardino County, the lines running eastward. 314 These routes are outlined in the next section. From San Bernardino the line of the Southern Pacific extends to Red- lands Junction. From Redlands Junction the railroad extends southeast, entering Riverside County at Ordway (5) and passing through El Casco (4) to BEAUMONT (8). Situated at the summit of San Gorgonio Pass, this is a picturesque farming commun- ity. It is well adapted to a high class of horticulture, and produces apples, peaches, prunes and cherries. New water resources are being developed and the town is growing rap- idly. The climate is delightful. From Beaumont the traveler reaches BANNING (6), sit- uated at an elevation of 2,300 feet, between the San Jacinto and San Bernardino Mountains. The climate is cool and de- lightful, and the rich soil is well adapted to raising almost any sort of crop. The deciduous fruits, almonds, grain and alfalfa, are the chief products at the present time. To those coming from 4;he east, after their journey through the Colo- rado Desert, Banning is truly "The gateway of Southern California.'' The town is 88 miles from Los Angeles. From here the Sunset Route line continues east through Cabazon (6) to Palm Springs Station (14). Five miles south of here are the Palm SpringS;, situated in an oasis of palms surrounding a mineral hot spring which has many curative properties. It is widely known as an artists' and nature- lovers' colony, and has good hotel accommodations. The railroad extends from Palm Springs Station south- east through the Coachella Valley. While the valley was once part of the ocean's bed, it is now plentifully supplied with fresh water, which lies a short distance underground, coming from the mountain ranges which skirt the valley on either side. Irrigation is carried on by sinking wells and pumping the water. Up to the present time the products of the Coachella Val* ley have been the various minor crops of Riverside County, vegetables, grapes, alfalfa, almonds, sugar beets and can- taloupes. All of these thrive in the warm, dry climate, but they have been overshadowed by two recent additions to the list of crops which bid fair to be of great importance. Cot- ton is found to flourish in the valley, and is said to be su- perior to that of most of the Southern States, growing one and a half bales to the acre. The residents are even more enthusiastic over another new product — dates. The date palm is found to do splendidly in the valley, and dates of the 315 finest sorts are now beinj; grown. The presence of the United States Agricultural Station will be of value in aiding the rapid development of the indastry. After passing Palm Springs the first point of importance is Indio (24), an oasis in the deserts with gardens created and nourished by artesian wells which tap a subterranean river. T'he town has a population of about 1,000. From here is reached Coachella (4), which is developing into an import- ant shipping point for cotton. Thermal, three miles farther east, is another town with good land available in the sur- rounding region. Here is situated the valley high school. From Thermal the route is through Mecca (6) to Salton (13). This town is situated on the great Salton Sea, occupy- ing the bottom of a former arm of the Gulf of California. The surface of the sea is 250 feet below sea-level. The wa- ter is about 34 feet deep at its greatest depth. The basin of the Salton Sea was formerly dry, but a break in the Colorado River bank filled it with water. The Colorado has now been controlled with levees so that it can never again leave its channel; the Salton Sea in the course of time will therefore disappear. From Salton the railroad reaches Durmid (6) and crosses into Imperial County to Bertram (4). IMPERIAL COUNTT, the youngest county in the state, was formed in 1907 from the eastern part of San Diego County. The area is 4,089 square miles. The population in 1910 was 13,591; it now numbers about 27,000, The main agricultural land is in the fertile Imperial Valley, 60 miles long and 30 wide, of which about 450,000 acres are in this county, the remaining 300,000 being in Mexico. The land is irrigated from the Colorado River. The products are di- versified, alfalfa being a large crop. Cotton has been grown on a commercial basis since 1909, and the prospects for an extension of this industry are bright. The date palm flour- ishes in Imperial County, and the production of dates will probably soon be considerable. Orange culture, too, is in- creasing. Agriculture in the county began in 1900, the land having previously been considered "desert" and of no value. Since the discovery of its true fertility the Imperial Valley has become known as the "Nile Valley of America." From Bertram the Southern Pacific line runs along the east side of Salton Sea, through FVink (5) to Volcano {TV2}. To the northeast of this town is a mud volcano, which gave the town its name. From Volcano the route runs southeast through Imperial Junction, whence a branch line extends through the center of Imperial Valley into Mexico. 816 This branch runs south through the towns of Estelle (41/2), Bernicc (4I/2), Rockwood (4i^) to BRAWLEY (5). This is one of the chief valley towns. The population in 1910 was 881. Brawley is the cen- ter of the large cantaloupe district, Imperial Valley melons ripening very early in the season. A pleasant spot in Brawley is a little park, filled with tropical and semi- tropical trees and plants. (Hotel Bungalow, A. P. $2.50 up.) The railroad continues from Brawley through Keystone (4i/^) to IMPERIAL (5). Imperial had a population of 1,257 in 1910. The stone high school at Imperial is a model of its kind. South of here is El Centre i^V^). EL CENTRO is the county seat and largest town. The population in 1910 was 1,610. Here are the county buildings and an imposing union high school. Near El Centre is the government ex- perimental farm, at which is determined the adaptability of Imperial Valley land to growing cotton, dates and other valu- able products. (Hotel El Centre, E. P. $1 up; Hotel Oregon, E. P. $1 up.) From El Centro the Holton Interurban Rail- way runs east to HOLTVTLLE (11). Tlie population of this town in 1910 was 729. The high school building here is built along classic lines. The public park is one of the most at- tractive in Imperial Valley. East of Holtville may be seen the ancient line of beach, the border of the Gulf of Califor- nia ages ago. From El Centro the line runs through Heber (5) to Calexico (iVo). CALEXICO, a town on the Mexican border, had a population of 729 in 1910. Beyond here the line crosses the border to the neighboring town of Mexicali (1), whence the route travels east on Mexican territory, en- tering the United States again at Andrade on the banks of the Colorado River, and thence to Yuma, Arizona (14). The main line from Imperial Junction runs southeast across the Colorado Desert through Glamis (30) and Ogilby (19) to Colorado River (15) and across the Colorado River to Yuma, Arizona (1). To the north of this route lie the Chocolate Mountains. From Yuma the Yuma and Laguna branch of the Southern Pacific runs north into California, extending along the Colo- rado River, through Colorado (1), and Laguna (12) to Pot- holes (1). 35. San Bernardino to the East via Barstow The lines of the Santa Fe and the Salt Lake Route run from San Bernardino to Barstow along the same tracks. From Barstow the routes diverge, the Saata Fe extending across the Mojave Desert to Needles on the Colorado River, crossing that stream into Arizona. The ' Salt Lake Route line runs to the north of the Santa Fe, extending into Nevada. JMost of the country passed tlirough by these lines is desert territory, though at many of the i?tations there are oases where agricultural development is going on because of the presence of flowing wells, created by tapping the un- derground water supply. The Mojave Desert region is rich in minerals and much of this wealth is still undeveloped'. Though on the whole the desert region cannot be said to be interesting while passing through on ilie train, there are nat- ural features which are worthy of remark. Many of the mountain ranges present strange and wierd outlines against the sky and on the plains the forests of yucca and cactus have a no less strange appearance. There is an air of mys- tery about the desert which will cling to it for years, perhaps for centuries — for most of it has never been ex- plored. The Calico Hills in the Mojave Desert are remark- able because of their strange colorings, from which they took their name. The strata lie exposed on the bare moun- tain sides, displaying a great variety of colors — red, yellow, violet, bright green, pink, crimson and brown. Each hill has its own distinctive color, with mottlings of the others. There are a number of other mountain ranges on the desert which present much the same characteristics in regard to their coloring as do the Calico Hills, The Mojave Desert (pro- nounced and often spelled Mohave) is dotted with many sinks, or lakes without outlet, which receive water from the surrounding mountains during the wet season. The most important stream is the Mojave River, rising in the San Ber- nardino Mountams, and flowing northward for 100 miles into the desert before disappearing in the sands. Tlie Santa Fe and Salt Lake Route follow the general course of the river as far as Barstow, 81 miles north of San Bernardino. In the mountain valleys near Victorville, Hes- peria and Oro Grande (Halleck station), apples and' grapes are grown successfully without irrigation. BARSTOW is an 318 important junction point, lines of the Santa Fe running tlience east and west, tlie latter to Mojave and the former to Needles. The Salt Lake Route runs eastward from here also. Barstow is a center of mining activity in the surround- ing desert. From here the two railroads run east to DAG- GETT (10), where there are borax and silver mines. The town has a population of 300"; agricultural development is promised .s the result of the recent discovery of a subter- ranean flow of water at a distance of from 50 to 300 feet from the surface. From Daggett the Santa Fe line runs southeast through a number of unimportant stations to Lud- low (44), whence the Tonopah and Tidewater runs north to Crucero, on the line of the Salt Lake Route. From Lud^ low the main line continues through Bagdad (23) to Goffs (60), whence a branch line of the Santa Fe connects with the line of the Salt Lake Route at Leastalk. From Barnwell, on this line, the Barnwell and Searchlight Railroad runs east- ward into Nevada, reaching a mining district of note. From Goffs the Santa Fe continues to the city of NEEDLES (32), on the Colorado River. This place is the most prominent in this region and is an important railroad town. The popula- tion is about 4,000. There are large mining and smelting interests here. The school system is excellent and the fine Santa Fe Recreation Hall (cost $100,000) is open to all the residents of the city. The Santa Fe shops at Needles em- ploy a large number of the inhabitants. (Needles Hotel, E. P. $1; Cottage House, $2; El Garces; Harvey Hotel.) From Needles the line of the Santa Fe crosses the Colo- rado River into Arizona, continuing across that state to Albu- querque, New Mexico, and thence to the East. The line of the Salt Lake Route from Daggett runs north- east to Crucero (46), whence the Tonopah and Tidewater Railroad runs north through San Bernardino and Inyo Coun- ties into Nevada, reaching T'onopah, Bullfrog and Goldfield. This line passes near Death Valley, where so many early pioneers lost their lives trying to cross the desolate waste. The Salt Lake Route runs from Crucero to Leastalk where it is joined by a branch line of the Santa Fe, connecting with the main line at Goffs. A branch line reaches from Leastalk northwest to Ivanpah, in the Ivanpah Valley. The main line continues through Nipton (10) into Nevada, crossing the state boundary just after leaving Calada (10'). The Salt Lake Route crosses Nevada by way of Las Vegas and Caliente, reaching Salt Lake City, Utah, 781 miles from Los Angeles. 36. Oakland to San Jose A journey which may be substituted for the one given in Route 3 of this book (San Francisco to San Jose) is this, from Oakland to San Jose. This serves as well as Route 3, as the first stage of the trip from San Francisco to Los An- geles by way of the Coast Line, as Oakland is reached from San Francisco by ferry. The main Coast Line is joined at San Jose. From Oakland the trip may be made by two lines of the Southern Pacific, running part of the way almost parallel. The first of these is by way of Niles; the second, nearer the Bay Shore, by way of Newark. T'he line running southeast by way of Niles takes the route described in the section, San Francisco to Stockton, until it reaches Niles (25 miles from Oakland Pier). This route is described in preceding pages (see Table of Con- tents). From Niles the line continuing toward San Jose reaches Irvington (4), from which the old Mission San Jose, one mile to the eastward, is most conveniently reached. Mission San Jose, an interesting relic of the past, was founded June 11, 1797, on Trinity Sunday. The Indians in the surrounding hills gave much trouble in the early years, but later became converted. Though the buildings were never extensive, at one time Mission San Jose had more neophytes than any other California mission except San Luis Rey. The country about the settlement then as now was ex- tensively cultivated, making it a veritable garden spot. The olive trees planted by the padres 100 years ago are still in bearing. While not one of the most imposing of the missions, the little chapel (all that remains of the original establish- ment) is of interest because of its historic associations. About it clusters the little town of Mission San Jose, in an agricultural region of exceptional fertility. Palmdale, the country seat of Henry Lachman, is one of the show places of .-Mameda county. Travelers of distinction often have been entertained here. From Irvington the railroad runs through Warm Springs (3) into Santa Clara County, reaching Milpitas (5). Monu- ment Peak (2,591 feet), rising to the east marks the boundary between Alameda and Santa Clara Counties. From Milpitas the railroad passes through Wayne (2) to San Jose (4), which is described under Route 3, page 84. 320 Tlie route from Oakland to San Jose by way of Newark, reaches first the communities of Fruitvale and Elmhurst, both part of the city of Oakland. From Elmhurst the rail- road runs southeast through Mulford (2), Robert (3) and Russell (2) to Mount Eden (2), an agricultural town. From here is reached ALVARADO (3). Here are located the great solar salt works of the California Salt Company. The salt is made from sea water on artificially overflowed lands. Salt is collected in the summer and piled in great pyramids, some of which contain as much as 4,000 tons. At Alvarado was built the first beet-sugar factory in the United States. This is one of the oldest towns in the bay region; it was at one time the county seat of Alameda County. From Alvarado the route runs through Ardien (3) to NEW- ARK (3).* This is a rapidly growing industrial town near the shores of San Francisco Bay. It is an important railroad center and junction point. From here Southern Pacific trains cross the lower end of the bay by the great Dumbarton bridge, reaching Redwood City and running up the peninsula to San Francisco. To the east a branch line of the Southern Pacific runs through Centerville (2), a thriving agricultural town of 1.500 people, to Niles (3), on the route between Oak- land and San Jose. After passing Newark the railroad runs through Mowry (2) and Drawbridge (3) to Alviso (3), where work on the im- provement of Port San Jose is under way. From here the railroad runs through Agnew (3), the location of a State sanatorium, to Santa Clara (3), continuing thence through College Park (1) to West San Jose (1). San Jose and the sur- rounding territory are described in Route 3 of this work. 37. Kings and Kern River Canyons The canyons of the Kings and Kern Rivers form a great recreation ground for the people of California and of the United States which is as yet little exploited; many parts of it are just beginning to be known. Roads have been built into the region and the trails have been improved, yet much remains to be done to make it accessible to the tourist. At the present time, however, the Kings River Canyon may be visited without great hardship; the upper Kern River Canyon is more difficult of access, but may be reached by a number 32] of mountain trails. T'iie Kings and Kern Canyons lie in a scenic region whicli can scarcely be excelled anywhere. The great area in the eastern part of Fresno and Tulare counties which is shown in the accompanying map contains much of remarkable interest to the tourist and lover of nature in its untamed aspects. Although not as celebrated as Yosemite Valley and Lake Tahoe, the region is much more vast than either of them, and contains probably grander scenery than any like area in the West. Its wonders are just beginning to be heralded abroad, and it is safe to say that in years to come it will be as famous and as popular as any other recrea- tion ground of the United States. Besides the scenic attrac- tions there are three large groves of Big Trees in this region — the California Grove, the Giant Forest (in Sequoia National Park) and the General Grant Grove in the Grant National Park. The map which accompanies the description of this region gives the trails usually followed in reaching the points of interest and makes a detailed outline of them unnecessary. The region covered in this section of the Guide Book may be reached from several different points. The majority of travelers leave the railroad at Visalia, travel thence to Lemon Cove by electric railway and make the rest of their trip by stage and trail. Another point of departure from the main route cf travel is at Porterville. TTie lower Kern Canyon, with its rugged scenery, is approached by way of Ducor; the California Hot Springs being reached by stage. Remarkable featijres in this part of the mountains are Cliff Point, whence an extended viev/ over the Sierras and the San Joaquin Val- ley is obtained; Painted Rocks, where the mountain's bare side is carved and painted in strange Indian pictographs and indecipherable hieroglyphs; and Capanero Falls, a quarter of a mile from the springs. The California Hot Springs are 12 miles from the Kern River. (See Route 28.) Still another way of reaching the Kings-Kern region is from Independence or Big Pine, in the Owens River Valley (see Route 30). The trails and roads are open from May until October, and this is the usual limit of the tourist season. From Visalia the electric railway runs to Lemon Cove, whence the Kings River stage leaves at 7 a. m., arriving at Juanita Meadows (IS) for luncheon. From here is reached (by stage of the Kings River Stage and Transportation Com- pany) the California Grove of Big Trees, ten miles distant. The California Grove (known also as Redwood Mountain) lies in the saddle between General Grant National Park and the Giant Forest, at the foot of Little Baldy Mountain. It is a discovery of recent years. The stage road passes through Map of Kings-Kern Region. 323 the upper part of the grove, which contains upward of 8,000 specimens of the genus Sequoia Gigantea (the real Big Tree). The stage from here continues to Quail Flat, two miles far- ther, whence it runs to Plume. Four miles by trail east of Quail Flat is the General Grant National Park. This park may he reached also by stage from Woodlake, on the Visalia Electric lines. General Grant National Park has 190 sequoias exceeding ten feet in diameter. The largest of these is "General Grant," with a diameter of ?>^ feet and a height of 264 feet. (Includ- ing the "knees" the diameter is 40 feet.) "George Washing- ton" has a diameter of 29 feet and a height of 255 feet, and there are many others of remarkable proportions. The other big tree groves in the Kings-Kern region are in the Sequoia National Park, a government reservation of 161,597 acres. The largest of these groves is the Giant Forest, with about 5,000 sequoias exceeding 10 feet in diameter. In this forest the most notable trees are "General Sherman" (di- ameter 36 feet, height 286) ; "Abraham Lincoln" (diameter 31 feet, height 270) ; "William McKinley" (diameter 28 feet, height 291). Other groves of great size in the Sequoia Na- tional Park are the Muir Grove (3,000 trees of over 10 feet diameter) and Garfield Grove (2,500 trees of this size), while there are eight others of smaller area and with fewer trees. The tree known as "Dalton," in the Muir Grove has a height of 292 feet and a diameter of 27 feet. TTie Giant Forest may be reached by stage from Lemon Cove. From Quail Flat those desiring to reach the Kings River Canyon take the saddle trail for Big Meadows, six miles dis- tant, where there are excellent camping grounds. From here the trail leads past Horse Corral to the summit overlooking the canyon, on to Cedar Grove, where there is a hotel. The view of the Kings River Canyon from the trail to Cedar Grove is one of imposing grandeur, KINGS RIVER CANYON is a deep cleft in the Sierra Nevadas running from east to west. The sides are not as precipitous as those of Yosemite, nor are there the immense waterfalls that mark the upper course of the Merced, but the canyon is much more extensive and the surrounding peaks are as high. There are great domes and granite crags on all sides v/hich lend a strange and ragged appearance to the skyline. Throughout this region are scattered green mead- ows and mountain lakes, torrential streams with roaring cas- cades and waterfalls, sheer cliffs and towering snow-capped peaks. In the floor of the canyon rushes the Kings River, 324 discovered lower down its course in 1805 by a Spanish ex- ploring expedition which called it Rio de los Santos Reyes (River of the Holy Kings), from which it took its present name. The "box canyon" is 15 miles long. The traveler who comes by the route just detailed reaches the South Pork of the Kings River; the Middle Fork, which also contains magnificent scenery, will be described later. From Cedar Grove the trail runs up the canyon to Camp Kanawyer, on Copper Creek. All along this route rise precipitous walls; opposite the camp is the Grand Sentinel, a granite cliff rearing its crest 8,500 feet above the canyon floor. From Kanawyer delightful side trips may be taken, for the most part over good trails. Roaring River Falls are among the most beautiful in this part of the Sierras; here the river has cut its way through the solid rock and plunges into a deep green pool, where the angler finds mar- velous sport. At Mist Falls, in Paradise Canyon, the stream tumbles over a series of inclines, over smooth-worn, spray-drenched walls. Above here rises the strangely formed Sphinx Rock. The trip up Pleasant Valley is another journey with remark- able scenic features. The trail along Bubbs Creek leads into one of the most inviting canyons tributary to the Kings River Canyon; there are a great many waterfalls and cascades, the largest of the falls rushing down on two sides of a great rock. As the canyon is ascended the peaks become more grand and rugged, while beneath them lie crystal mountain lakes, among them being Lake Bryanthus, Lake Charlotte, East Lake and Lake Reflection. There are remarkable granite domes and cliffs in this region of the High Sierras. The East Vidette and the West Vidette are steep-sided cones. The Kearsarge Pinnacles are above the chain of lakes, a strange array of peaks and jagged ridges. Kearsarge Pass, leading toward the east from the pinnacles, is the highest of all the Sierra passes (12,056 feet), and is literally the back- bone of the mountain range; the mountains slope downward on both sides from the crest along which the narrow trail runs. The pass runs by way of Kearsarge Mill, a reminder of the mining days, down into the Owens River Valley. Mount Kearsarge rises to the north of the trail and Univer- sity Peak (13,950 feet) to the south and there are many other notable eminences. Mount Brewer, south of the Bubbs Creek trail, is one of the highest in this part of the Sierras (13,886 feet). Other prominent peaks are Mount Gardner, Mount Gould, Mount Keith, Mount Bradley and Mount Rixford. The mountain lakes (Lakes Bryanthus, Charlotte and Rae) are ;J25 also reached by way of the Paradise Canyon Trail, leading northward from Kanawyer through the gorge of the Upper South Fork of the river; about five miles from the main can- yon the gorge opens out into Paradise Valley, a green meadow enclosed within precipitous cliffs, which is a favorite camping ground. From here a trail leads up the western side of the canyon to Woods Creek, entering from the east, and onward to the lakes, TTie Middle Fork of the Kings River runs in a canyon no less remarkable than that of the South Fork, though it is not so easily reached. The trip requires from three to five days and may be made from Cedar Grove or Hume (formerly called Ten Mile). This gorge is known as Teliipite Canyon, from a gigantic dome which rises on its northern side. Tehipite Dome rears its walls 3,480 feet above the river, its summit being crowned with an almost perfectly rounded cap. The Tehipite Pinnacles are a series of jagged spires, at whose foot are fine waterfa,lls. There are also beautiful falls and cascades along Cartridge Creek, a tributary of the Middle Fork. At Simpson's Meadow, in the upper reaches of the canj'on, are excellent camping grounds. The KERN RIVER CANYON lies to the east of the terri- tory already described. The course of the Kern River at this point is almost due south; the ravine is more extensive than the Kings River Canyon, and is fully as interesting, though less visited. As already stated, it may be reached from California Hot Springs; another route is by way of Kanawyer's, Bubbs Creek trail and Kearsarge Pass, entering the canyon from the east. Tlie most popular route is prob- ably from Horse Corral, by way of Alta Meadows. Above the meadows rises Alta Peak (11,211), which is the highest point in the Sequoia National Park. The mountain is not difficult to climb and the view from the summit is impres- sive. Fi-om Alta Meadows the trail leads by way of Mineral King Valley and Farewell Gap to Coj'ote Pass, where it en- ters the Kern River Canyon at the lower end, opposite Vol- cano Creek, the original home of the golden trout. From Miner's Peak are had views of the great Chagoopa Forest, the immense cleft known as the Big Arroyo and the towering forms of Kaweah Peaks, among the highest in the Sierras, the loftiest pinnacle being 14,140 feet above sea-level. To the east is Mount Whitney (14,522 feet), surrounded by its palisades; this is the highest point in the United States. Far to the northeast is Mount Tyndall (14,101). At one point in the canyon the Kern River has been blocked by a land- slide, causing it to fill the ravine for some distance above, 326 the beautiful expanse of water being known as Kern Lake. TTie upper Kern Canyon reaches into the very heart of the highest Sierras, and a hardy mountain-climber will not leave the region without essaying the ascent of Mount Whitney. The Kern river is known as one of the finest trout streams of California. From Alta Meadows may be reached the Giant Forest (already described) and Camp Sierra, in the Sequoia Na- tional Park. The trail to this camp leads by Mount Silliman (11,188), whence a fine view of Mount Whitney is obtained. Camp Sierra is in Round Meadow, in the heart of the Giant Forest. This is a place from which many trails lead to the points of natural interest in the surrounding region. One of the largest Big Trees extant, "Rob Roy," is an isolated tree standing on a ridge near the Kings Canyon. This tree is 109 feet around the base and 400 feet high; it was found by the Sierra Club in 1903. A remarkable eminence near Camp Sierra is Morro Rock (6,719 feet), a smooth granite monolith set in the midst of beautiful scenery. Two miles northeast of Camp Sierra is the largest tree in the world, "General Sher- man," with a base circumference 9 feet above ground of 107 feet; the height is 2S6 feet. Hospital Rock, 8 miles south of the camp, is a huge pinnacle supposed to have been the home of a prehistoric race; there are numerous hieroglyphics upon it. In this region of the Sierras also are a num-, ber of remarkable caves, most of M^hich have not been com- pletely explored. The largest of these are Paradise Cave and Clough Cave, both south of Camp Sierra, the first 25 miles and the second 32 miles. Kaweah Canyon is visited by a comparatively small num- ber of tourists, but is very attractive, and is not difficult of access. From Exeter, on the railroad, take the Visalia Elec- tric line to Lemon Cove (15), thence to Three Rivers (12i/^). From Three Rivers by auto stage the traveler reaches Kaweah (4). Here a stop for the night is made. (Kaweah Hotel, $2.) From Kaweah to the entrance of the Sierra National Forest is 14 miles; thence to Old Colony Mills (10); thence via Marble Creek to Ranger Postoffice, also called Camp Sierra (11). Meals in the dining-room and lodgings in tents cost $3 a day. From Sierra Camp the trails to Mount Whitney, and Kings and Kern River Canyons, are in good condition, and livery accom- modations may be had at Ranger. Sixteen miles east from Sierra Camp via Tharp's Rock lie the Kaweah Peaks. From these peaks the visitor may take in at a glance the canyons of the Kings, the Kern and the Kaweah Rivers. 38. Lake Tahoe LAKE TAHOE is one of the noted scenic wonders of the United States. Nowhere in the world is the ' equal of this great body of water, set in the midst of a high mountain range, with peaks towering above it. Its infinite variety of scenery alone would make it famous; the shores are skirted by green meadows and sandy beaches, pine forests, rocky cliffs and promontories and tov/ering crags. The regal blue of its waters is matched by few lakes, for Lake Tahoe in places is said to be too deep to be measured by instruments available to scientists of the present day; many believe that it is fed by underground springs as well as by the melting snows of the mountains. T'he depth has been measured more than 1,800 feet, after which mark the sounding instruments have failed. The surface of Lake Tahoe is 6,240 feet above sea-level; the highest mountains which rear their crests above it are 11,120 feet in altitude. This is the height of Freel's Peak and Job's Sister. Most of Lake Tahoe is in California, but all of the eastern shore and part of the north- ern are in the state of Nevada. The lake is 13 miles wide and 2?. miles long; because of its great surface it is sometimes subject to storms, especially in winter, but most of the time it is calm. Lake Tahoe is most easily reached by the line of the Southern Pacific to Triickee (see route, Sacramento to T'ruc- kee) and thence by the line of the Lake Tahoe Railway and Transportation Company southward to Tahoe City. The au- tomobilist has a choice of several routes, probably the most popular being that by way of Placerville and the American River Canyon, though the route along the course of the two railroads is much followed. The Alpine State Highway runs to Tallac, on the shores of Lake T'ahoe. The points of interest along these routes are described elsewhere (consult Index or Table of Contents). From Truckee the line of the Lake Tahoe Railway runs up the Truckee River, a torrential water course, which is the outlet of the lake. There are picturesque vistas at every turn, with rapids, falls and cascades succeeding one another as the stream plunges down the mountains on its way to Nevada. After a ride of an hour, in which 15 miles of attracti/e mountain scenery may be viewed, the railroad reaches TAHOE CITT, on the shores of Lake Tahoe, stopping at Tahoe Tav- ern. The tavern, one of the famed tourist resorts of Cal- 7 ,//*' '« H'^i-./ rv4 /f ' o ■•k ,Q ^-* g \,RubiconSpfmgs K7 .. ' s I Sit...-. ^'V' ^ bSBS f['n I tclls'pc)ak Jji^uX Moratfini * ' . \/A ft i:\r ' / y». . rtlELL PfAK K Map of Lake Tahoe Region. 329 ifornia, is situated at the edge of the lake. There are varied amusements for the visitor, including trout fishing in the lake and tbe Truckee River, motoring, horseback riding, tennis and other less strenuous recreations. There is a Casino on the lake shore, v/ith iDrcad verandas and an assembly and ballroom. The Tavern has a garage. The vistas over the lake from here are ever-changing, and delightful hours are passed watching the varying phases of this great mountain lake. Tahoe Tavern is open from May 15 to October 15. (Rates, A. P. $4 up.) The twin-screw steamer "Tahoe" leaves the wharf at Tahoe Tavern every morning at 9:45 ior the trip around the lake. The distance is 72 miles, following the curves of ihe shore. T'his is an "inland voyage" that no tourist should omit, as only in this way are the full majesty and beauty of Lake Tahoe realized. The shore is dotted with summer homes and resorts, w^hile hundreds of pleasure craft ply on the blue waters. The trip around the lake will now be taken up in detail; the tourist is referred to the map of the Tahoe region in the following description. (See page 328.) From Tahoe Tavern the steamer cruises southward to Home wood C6), a resort center, with hotel, tents and cot- tages, situated near the base of Barker Peak. From here is reached McKinney's (2), one of the best-known places on the lake. There are boats and fishing outfits to be had at Mc- Kinney's and the bathing is excellent. This is the point of departure for places in the interior country. The side trips include journeys to Mirror Bay, Iron Springs, Quail Lake and Rubicon Springs. Rubicon Springs, situated on the Rubi- con River at the base of the mountain of the same name, 9 miles by stage from McKinney's or Moana Villa, are popular with fishermen. The waters are of recognized medicinal qual- ities and are palatable. The country round here abounds with game, and many deer are killed in the mountains every year. Moana Villa, less than one-fourth of a mile from Mc- Kinney's, is a lake-shore hotel which is liked by tourists. From here the steamer coasts to Rubicon Park (8), with its fine sandy beach, and thence past Rubicon Point, where the rugged cliffs drop sheer for two hundred fathoms; some of the largest fish have been caught at this place. The water here is of great clearness; in fact at many places on Lake Tahoe one may see far beiow the surface, and watch the fish darting to and fro. After Rubicon Park the next stop is at Emerald Bay Camp (6) on the shores of beautiful Emerald Bay. This body of water, according to Indian legend, was once a separa.te lake, and the entrance is very narrow. The shores are set thickly 330 wath green pines and other trees, giving the name to the bay in which their reflections show so clearly. Emerald Bay is three miles long and half a mile wide; the sandy bottom hundreds of feet below the surface can be distinctly seen through the limpid water. From the camp, where there are tents and cottages, may be taken pleasant excursions into the mountains. Numerous lakes lie in the regions above Emerald Bay, and from one of these a cascade tumbles down into it. The v/aters of Emerald Bay are the warmest of any in Lake Tahoe, making the bathing probably the best about here. The trout fishing is also good. The steamer circles a rocky islet in the upper bay, once Inhabited by an eccentric hermit, and passes into the great lake, coasting by Eiagle Point to Tallac. TALLAC is one of the most notable resorts on the shores of Lake Tahoe, with its hotel and cottages set at the very edge of the forest. This place is the most prominent on the southern shores and occupies an attractive position, with Mount Tallac rising behind it. A large Casino helps in the entertainment of guests. This is a starting point for delight- ful walks and drives into the surrounding mountains. The ascent of Mount Tallac is not difficult, and from its summit may be caught glimpses of fourteen mountain lakes besides Tahoe; the altitude is 9,715 feet. From here is reached Fallen Leaf Lake, so named from its appearance when viewed from the surrounding heights. This is a charming spot and there are a number of retreats in the region about here. Fallen Leaf Lodge is on the shores of the Lake itself, while nearby is Camp Agassiz, a quarter of a mile from the lodge; this has long been a popular summer camp for boys. TTiere are also camps at Lake of the Woods and Heather Lake, under the management of Fallen Leaf Lodge; these are in the higher mountains about Tahoe and afford opportunities for exploring Desolation Valley and the peaks around it. Fallen Leaf Lake is situated at an altitude of 6,360 feet; it is 4 miles long and iy2 miles wide; its waters mirror the distant peaks and overhanging trees with remarkable distinctness. The lake is well stocked with trout, such as Eastern Brook, Rainbow, Scotch Brown, Mackinaw, Loch Leven, Salmon mycus and their kin. In fact all of the lakes and streams of this region are the delight of the angler. i\ep.r Fallen Leaf Lake is the resort known as Glen Alpine Springs, which affords scenery which vies with that of the Alps. Situated in a canyon which thousands of years ago was carved out of the mountain side by a huge glacier, the springs gush forth about half-way up its length. At this point a forest of stately pines reaches down into the valley and there is a commodious hotel. The mineral waters are of acknowledged value. Glen Alpine Can- yon is one of the finest examples of glacial action in the Sierras, according to scientists who have visited the region. Numerous trails lead from the hotel into the mountains, and the highest peaks may he ascended from here. Within one to six miles of tne hotel are more than forty lakes, all abound- ing with game fish. The steamer from Tallac coasts the shore to The Grove, a resort about half a mile distant, near the mouth of the Little Truckee River, the main tributary of Lake Tahoe. This is the center for many pleasant excursions, and the bathing and fishing are good. The Grove is open the year around. From here the lake shore is traversed to Al-Tahoe (4), which takes its name from the Indian appellation of Lake Tahoe. The resort is situated on a bluff commanding an extensive view over the lake; there is a fine sandy bathing beach with excellent bathing; the waters being warm. From Al-Tahoe trips into the interior reach Cold Creek, Little Truckee and Star Lake, all noted for their fishing; from here may be climbed the peaks known as Job's Sister (11,120) and Freel's Peak (11,120), the highest in this region. From Al-Tahoe the steamer reaches Bijou (2), another popular resort, passing thence to Lakeside (2), on the boundary between California and Nevada. The next stopping point is Glenbrook (14), on the Nevada side of the lake. (Glenbrook Inn, $2.50 up.) From here a stage line runs to Carson City, Nevada, 14 miles dis- tant, whence Virginia City, and Reno and other points on the Southern Pacific Railroad are reached by the Virginia & Truckee Railway. South of Glenbrook Bay is the Shakespeare Cliff, upon the side of which is a scar which, from a certain angle, locks like the profile of the Bard' of Avon. There is excellent trout fishing in this part of the lake. From Glenbrook the steamer continues northwest to Brockway (15), a resort of note, which is situated on Agate Bay, just west of State Ijine Point, which juts out into the lake from the north shore. On the other side of the point is Crystal Bay, At Brockway there are hot mineral springs, as well as the usual resort attractions. (Brockway Hotel, A. P., $2.50 to $4.) Half a mile beyond here is Tahoe Vista, where there is one of the best bathing beaches on the lake. (Hotel rates, $2 up.) The last stopping point of the steamer is Car- rel ian Bay (21/^), where there is a pebble beach over 2,000 feet in length; carnelians and other beautiful semi-precious stones may be picked up here. There are excellent camping grounds near the beach. From Carnelian Bay the steamer makes the last stage of the .iourney around the lake, passing around Observatory Point, and thence to Tahoe City (4). Glenbrook may be reached from Tahoe City by a direct steam- ship line across the lake. The distance is 14 miles. The entire Lake Tahoe region is a recreation ground of never-failing popularity. Besides the resorts on the lake shore, there are a number in the surrounding mountains. Those reached from points on Lake Tahoe have already been mentioned. Among the other notable resorts of the region are the Deer Park Springs, ten miles from Truckee and two miles from the railroad. Stages meet morning and evening trains at Deer Park station. There are facilities for indoor and outdoor pastimes. Soda, iron and sulphur springs add to the attractions of the resort. (Hates, $2.50 up.) To the north of Truckee are Webber Lake and Independence Lake, reached' by stage. The lofty peaks which surround Lake Tahoe have much to attract the more strenuous of the summer tourists. There are trails leading throughout the mountains, several of them making accessible the higher summits. The elevations above sea-level of the principal mountains are: Freel's Peak (11,120 feet). Job's Sister (31,120), Pyramid Peak (10,052), Mount Tallac (9,715), Richardson Peak (9,794), Rubicon Peak (9,284), Ralston Peak (9,140), Angora Peak (8,935), Twin Peak (8,924), Ward Peak (8,665), Hunger Hill (8,250). Among the more important of the lakes which are scattered throughout this region (elevation above sea-level given in feet), as seen from Mount Tallac, are: Fallen Leaf Lake (6,360), Echo Lake (7,420), Wright Lake (7,420'), Potter Lake (6,528), Grass Lake (7,681), Cascade Lake (6,720), Gilmore Lake (8,100), Heather Lake (7,800). These are only a few of the beautiful bodies of water in the Sierras; they are so numerous that many of them have not even been named. 39. Yosemite Valley The YOSEMITE VALLEY stands out above all other scenic beauties of California. Its fame Is world-wide and it holds position second to none among the natural wonders of the world. The valley is situated in the Yosemite National Park, a great government reserve in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Some of the most remarkable mountain scenery in America is embraced within the borders of this park. 333 Many of its chief features have been described in preced- ing pages of this book. The crowning glory of the park is Yosemite Valley, which should be lisited by every traveler in California. Unlike many American natural wonders, Yo- semite is easy of access. There are several ways of reaching the valley. A popular route is by way of the Yosemite Val- ley Railroad, which runs eastward into the mountains from. Merced, with its terminus at El Portal, on the border of Yo- semite National Park. The trip takes only four hours from Merced. The route of this railroad has been described in Section 25 of this book. From El Portal the coaches of the Yosemite Transportfition Company carry the visitors into the wonderland of the valley. An auto stage line from Placer- ville affords another means of reaching Yosemite Park; there are also roads by way of Coulterville and by way of Ray- mond and \\'awona. The regions through which these routes pass are described in other parts of this book (consult in- dex). The Yosemite Valley (pronounced Yo-sem-i-tee) is the deep-cut canyon of the Merced River, where it is flanked by almost perpendicular cliffs. It is situated on the western side of the Sierra Nevada range, the vallay floor being about 4,000 feet above sea-level. The valley is eight miles long and from one-half to two miles wide. This great gorge had its origin in a cataclysm of nature which opened up an im- mense crevice in the heart of the mountains; this was filled with glaciers which gouged out the valley, leaving it with its beetling granite walls, as it is today. Yosemite (or Yo Semite, as it was formerly written) is an Indian word signifying "Big Grizzly Bear." The valley was discovered by the aborigines centuries ago and was held by them in religious veneration as a terrestrial paradise. It was with feelings of awe and solemnity that they ventured into this mighty canyon. Most of the Indians have passed away to their happy hunting grounds, but many of the names which they applied to natural features in Yosemite Park are still used. A wealth of legendry is attached to this romantic region. (See Yosemite Legends,"' by Bertha H. Smith). Probably the first white men to view the wonders of Yo- semite were the members of the Mariposa Battalion, who pursued hostile Indians into these mountain fastnesses in March, 1851. Dr. Bunnell, however, in the winter of 1849-50, had beheld El Capitan from a considerable distance; he was also with the expedition which first saw the valley. 334 The flora and fauna of Yosemite hold great interest for sojourners in this mountain region. The valley's floor con- tains much rich meadow-land, dotted with wildflowers of every hue. Rare shrubs and trees grow in Yosemite. The flora is not confined to alpine varieties, but includes most of the distinctive California plants and trees. Among the wild flowers are lilies, larkspur, lupin, white and blue violets, honeysuckle, purple primrose, painter's brush, Mariposa tu- lip, moccasin-flower, scarlet snovvplant, daisies, geranium, goldenrod, orchids, mint, columbine, spiraea, sunflower, hare- bell, gilia and phlox. There are ferns of every size and va- riety. The shrubs include azalea, wild lilac, rhododendron, laurel, wild rose, wild cherry, ceanothus, manzanita, dwarf- oak, willow and chinquapin. The manual "Yosemite Flora," issued by the Department of Botany of the University of California. Berkeley, is a valuable and interesting companion for the lover of plants and flowers in the park. The prin- cipal trees of the valley are yellow pine, fir, tamarack, cedar, black oak, cottonwood and sugar pine. The wild life of the Yosemite Park is little less varied than the flora. No hunting is allowed within the government re- serve and under this protection the furred and feathered den- izens of the forest have increased and prospered. The ani- mals include the squirrel, mountain beaver, woodchuck, coy- ote, fox, lynx, deer, woodrat, cougar (mountain lion) and bear. Most of these, while found in the park, do not frequent the valley. The birds are many in Yosemite, and their woodland notes add much to the natural charm of the surroundings. See "Song Birds in Yosemite," by Olive Harper, in "Califor- nia the Beautiful" (Paul Elder, San Francisco) for an at- tractive account of these feathered warblers. Among the birds of Yosemite are the tanager, humming-bird, oriole, warbler, woodpecker, nuthatch, jay, robin, sparrow, sage- cock, grouse, quail, ])artridge, water-ousel, ducks, geese (in winter), hawks and eagles. Trout fishing is permitted by the government in the streams and lakes of the national park during specified years. The traveler cannot satisfactorily view the many wonders of Yosemite in less than a week; several weeks and even months are not too much to devote to this region. The best season to visit the valley is probably the early summer, but in winter there are attractions which rival those of the warmer months. The ice-encrusted waterfalls and cascades, snow-laden trees and all the wonderland of Yosemite clothed in white afford vistas of surpassing magnificence. 335 For those Californians who dwell far from the realm of the Winter King and for all out-of-door people, the winter sports add' pleasure and zest to the season. The activities are varied, including skating, skecing, snow-shoe v/alking, sleigh- ing, tobogganing, snow-balling and real alpine climbing. The weather in winter is usually pleasant, with many crisp days and clear nights. The Sentinel Hotel and Hotel Del Portal are open throughout the year. The clothing taken by the tourist to the Ycseraite should be chosen according to the season; overcoats and wraps are needed in winter, and the evenings in summer are often cool enough to require them. The visitor is accommodated at the hotels and camps (mentioned later) or may "camp out" alone if he prefers not to reside in the regular camps. Tents and outfits may be had at the Yosemite Store. Those desiring to make trips on horseback may hire animals in the valley; rates vary, ac- cording to the trip, $2 a day being an average. Driving out- fits also may be secured in the valley. All prices are under government regulation. Automobiles were formerly excluded from the the Yosemite National Park, but Secretary of the Interior Franklin K. Lane, himself a Californian, has di- rected that they be admitted in future. For the vis- itor who spends many days in Yosemite a larger map of the region than that given in this book will be of great assist- ance. The governm.ent issues two excellent maps, which may be secured from the Director of the Geological Survey, Washington, D. C. These are a map of Yosemite National Park, with a scale of 2 miles to the inch (25 cents unbound; 35 cents folded and bound between covers) and a map o3 Yesemite Valley, with a scale of 2,000 feet to the inch (10 cents a copy). The Department of the Interior issues a Bulle- tin of General Information regarding Yosemite National Park, which contains data of interest and value; it may be had on application. As already noted, most of the visitors to the Yosemite Valley come by waj'^ of El Portal. From here the traveler takes the stage for the Yosemite Village. The enjoyable ride of 121/^ miles is over the government road, the last 4 miles being along the floor of the valley. The coach, following the course of the turbulent river, penetrates deeper and deeper into the Merced Canyon, the walls becoming ever higher and more precipitous. Everywhere the scenery is magnificent, a fit preparation for the beauties which lie above. The gradual ascent from El Portal to the floor of the valley is 2,000 feet. The Cascade Falls, lying to the north of the road, are passed; here the Cascade Creek plunges down the cliffs for 700 feet. ■'y.JI",/ 'V:; ^A\Y^fc;,^llft.-^^;;.'^^;///^r,l,,4'=:>, ., ^$«i^ ^r>> v%,'^-^^ ■""■:r^; :v\5^.^'-: .T? juBJ^ < Jill,- '* 4-, ^4 .,;■., ■/, *7V7?"\a> */„ .''• .< •. In succession are passed Inspiration Point, Artist's Point, Old Inspiration Point, Stanford Point, Crocker Point, all to the south. After traversing a dense pine forest which has hidden these from view, the coach emerges at Grand View, and halts while the vision of Yosemite bursts for the first time upon the traveler. The entrance is guarded by mighty sentinel cliffs, and beyond them lies the stupc^ndous gorge of Yosemite. Here on the south wall are the Bridal Veil Falls, plunging over the granite precipice. The stream is over 30 feet wide, and falls first for 600' feet, then rushing over a sloping ledge it plunges a distance of 300 feet more. The total drop is 940 ;;r:7 '•'iir. .Z'^' yATKlHSv,. ,„^ ''^?v« ^amx" :m .,.,„r. adome .'■iUGARlDfM \CURRy| :S ?rCK''^j /;/»' ;■■«?. -^' S^i^ f'^i-Je' 'qM K'^^'^l ,^^j v!^) W^: . ;;^ii;;;,' i^^-^i^ j,,y/.: feet, and from most points of observation tlie descent of the water seems unbroken. Unquestionably these falls are among the most picturesque in the world. The wind often swings the falling column of water across the face of the cliff like a veritable "bridal veil." At the base of the falls on every sunny afternoon are formed magnificent rainbows, enduring for over two hours, presenting a scene of infinite beauty. In Avinter, with the long pendant icicles and ice grottoes, the falls are no less resplendent. The Indians called these falls Pohono (Spirit of the Evil Wind), connecting with them a weird, sinister legend. The Bridal Veil Falls are not the 338 greatest in Yosemite Valley, but they are much larger than any in Europe. The falls of the Staubbach (in Switzerland), the highest on the Continent, are inferior to the Bridal Veil Falls both in height and volume. On the north wall of the valley, almost opposite the Bridal Veil Falls, are the Ribbon Falls. The stream makes an un- broken leap of over 2,000 feet. From the verge of the precipice to the valley floor the stream plunges a distance of 3,300 feet. The Indians called these falls "Lungyoluckoya," which prob- ably means "the long and slender one." According to others, its significance is merelj^ "Pigeon Falls." The falls have also been known as the "Virgin's Tears," but this name is being supplanted by the less romantic, but m.ore characteristic "Rib- bon Falls." Beyond the Ribbon Falls towers El Capitan, the great granite cliff that guards the western entrance to the valley. It is one of the most imposing and one of the most famous of the scenic features of Yosemite. Its dominating position and majestic form are accentuated by the narrowing of the gorge at this point to about a mile m width. The height of El Capitan above the valley floor is 3,300 feet — over three- fifths of a mile. The precipice appears to be perpendicular, though in reality the base is advanced 1,200 feet from the plumb-line of the brink. The crest of the cliff, however, over- hangs the vertical on both the southern and western faces. This immense mass of white granite holds up on its surface 1,600 acres; it may be seen from certain points of vantage more than 50 miles away. The name of this cliff is appro- priate, signifying in Spanish "The Captain." The Indians called it Tutockahnulah, in honor of the greatest chief in the history of their tribe, whom they venerated as a deity. Beyond El Capitan, on the northern side of the valley, are The Three Brothers, whose similarity depends upon the point of view. The Indians called them Pompompasus, or "moun- tains playing leap-frog." The highest of The Three Brothers is known as Eagle Peak; its summit 3,900 feet above the valley. The view from the top, reached by trail, is one of the finest in the Park. The Three Brothers are not to be confused with The Three Graces, peaks of similar formation, which rise on the other side of the valley opposite El Capitan. They are 3,400 feet above the valley floor. These peaks were known to the Indians as Wahwahlenah. East of them are the note- worthy Cathedral Spires, pinnacles reminiscent in their form of the Duomo at Florence. One of the spires rises 2,678 feet above the valley, and is unsupported and unconnected with 339 the mountain for 700 feet. Tlie other spire is 2,579 feet above the valley. The Indian name for these formations was "Pose- nah-Chukka," or "large acorn cache.'' Facing The Three Biothers, on the south wall, is the Sent!-? nel Rock. This slender granite tower stands out in grand iso- lation, its castellated summit 3,0o9 feet above the valley. For 1,500 feet below the crest the face of the Sentinel is nearly Ijerpendicular. This rock was known to the Indians as "Loya," or "The Watchtower." Down one flank plunge for 3,000 feet cascades which are known, because of their opaqueness, as Buttermilk Falls. Above Sentinel Rock rises Sentinel Dome, one of the conoidal knobs peculiar to Yosemite. The top of this remarkable mountain is 4,125 feet above the Merced River and 8,125 feet above sea-level. The ascent is not particularly difficult, and the view from the summit sweeps over the Sierras for 50 miles. In that portion of the valley dominated by Sentinel Dome, and situated in the meadows at the foot of Yosemite Falls is Yosemite Village, the social center of the valley. It is a ham- let consisting of the office of the Superintendent of the Yo- semite, the Sentinel Hotel and cottages, general store, post- office, barber shop, dancing pavilion, a number of art studios and offices for express, telegraph and telephone companies. The Sentinel Hotel, situated on the banks of the Merced River, is the only hotel in Yosemite Valley. From the hotel the tour, ist may view the splendid Yosemite Falls, Sentinel Rock, Half Dome, and the other wonders of the valley. The hotel is open throughout the year. (Rates, American Plan. $3.50 to $5 per day; $21 to $30 per week.) From the Sentinel Hotel start the stages for El Portal and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees. The most interesting of the cottages adjacent to the hotel (under same management) is the Cedar Cottage, containing the "Big Tree Room," in the center of which is a great cedar tree 8 feet in diameter. Besides the hotel there are three ex- cellent camps in Yosemite for the accommodation of tourists. Here riuring the summer months the soiourner may enjoy to the full the pleasures of outdoor life. Camp Lest Arrow is situated at the base of Yosemite Point, and almost at the foot of Yosemite Falls, three-quarters of a mile from Yosemite Vil- lage. (Rates, $2.50 per day, $15 per week.) Camp Ahwahnee is located in the meadows of the Merced River, about one mile from the village. (Rates, $3 per day, $17.50 per week.) Ahwahnee is a name once applied by the Indians to the Yo- semite Valley; they called themselves Ahwahneechees. Camp Curry is at the base of Glacier Point, on the road to Happy Isles, Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls. (Rates, $2.50 per day. 340 $15 per week.) On the top of Glacier Point are the Glacier Point Hotel and Camp, described later. Situated' in a beauti- ful grove directly under Glacier Point is Le Conte Memorial Lodge, maintained by the Sierra Club of California, which has done much toward the exloration of the Sierra Nevada Moun- tains. The building was erected in honor of Dr. Joseph Le Conte of the University of California, who loved the Yosemite region, and visited it eleven times. He died in the Yosemite Valley in July, 1901. The lodge is open from May to August. The reading room contains much of interest, including maps, photographs, Pacific Coast papers and magazines, and a wealth of literature pertaining to the Sierra region of California. The library is open to the public for reference only. North of the Sentinel Hotel are the wonderful Yosemite Falls. The Yosemite Creek, 35 feet across at the lip of the falls, here, plunges over the walls to the floor of the valley, 2,600 feet below. This descent of half a mile is not made in one sheer fail, though it seems so from a distance. In reality there are three falls. The first and largest leap of the stream is 1,600 feet straight downward; then comes a series of cas- cades for 600 feet, and finally there is another vertical drop of 400 feet. So vast are the cliffs over which the water pours that from some distance away the great waterfall seems of no extraordinary size, but on nearer approach its true majesty and magnitude are apparent. When the stream is at its great- est volume, the roar of the falls echoes from one side of the canyon to the other. In the winter a great ice-cone, some- times 500 feet high, forms at the base of the upper fall. To the right of the falls is a high crest known as Yosemite Point, ?.,220 feet above the valley. From the top are obtained ex- tended and wonderful views over the upper end of the valley. In the hollow near the point rises a monolith of granite, which was called by the Indians "Flummoo," or "The Lost Arrow," with which they connected one of their characteristic legends. East of Yosemite Point is Indian Canyon, through which led the trail used by the aborigines in entering and leaving the valley. The elevated plateau at its mouth was the scene, in 1852, of a fierce and savage battle between the Yosemite and Mono tribes of Indians, the former being almost extermin- ated. Opposite, in the great eastern wall that forms the base of the North Dome, are the Royal Arches, curious recessed curves in the granite. Much of the rock hereabout is formed in lay- ers, which has been fractured by the frost and other weather- ing agencies. Down the arches plunge for 2,000 feet the little cascades known as the Royal Arch Falls, called I)y the Indians "Tokay." Above the Royal Arches towers the North Dome, its summit 3,725 feet above the valley floor. Its Indian name was "To-coy-ae," Avhich has the meaning "the shade to an Indian baby basket or cradle," and was applied because of a fancied resemblance in shape. The extreme angle of the canyon wall at this point is a rock "tower" known as the Washington Column. This may be termed the head of Yo- semite Valley proper. To the northeast opens out Tenaya Canyon, while to the southeast, farther up the Merced Canyon, is the Little Yosemite Valley. These are described later. From the floor of the valley is reached by trail far-famed Glacier Point. The more direct route is by way of Union Point, though there is another of great charm by way of Ver- nal Falls and Nevada Falls (described later). The former trail ascends the canyon wall and reaches Union Point, 2,350 feet above the Merced River. From here is obtained a splen- did view of the upper part of Yosemite. Just below is the Agassiz Column, 85 feet high, a granite shaft of top-heavy ap- pearance, balanced on a slender base. The trail traverses the brink of the cliffs until Glacier Point is reached. Glacier Point is one of the most celebrated of the preci- pices of Yosemite. It is perhaps the most popular objective point in the whole region. The view from here is probably superior to that from any other place of vantage above the mighty gorge. The entire eastern end of the valley lies far below, while upon practically the same level as Glacier Point are the pinnacles, domes and waterfalls, which rim the canyon. Yosemite Falls, North Dome and the Royal Arches, South Dome (Half Dome), Basket Dome, Clouds' Rest, Cap of Lib- erty, Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls, Eagle Peak, — all can be seen from different parts of Glacier Point, with the higher Sierras as a background. This panorama has been declared by many "globe-trotters" to be the most magnificent in the world. The remarkable shelf-like ledges are but a few yards from the hotel. From the top of the famous Overhanging Rock it is 3,234 feet to the valley floor. A pebble dropped over the edg^j vsill fall 3,000 feet straight down before striking the talus at the base of the precipice. The Glacier Point Hotel is almost on the brink, and affords a widespread view. It is open dur- ing the summer season. (Rates. $4 per day; $25 per week.) A short distance back from the hotel, in a grove of pine and fir trees, is the Glacier Point Camp, (Rates, $2.50 per day; $15 per week.) From the hotel excellent trails make accessible the points of interest on the south wall of Yosemite. It will 342 well repay the visitor to take a trip on horseback along the Pohono Trail, which skirts the rim of the valley. Upon this trail are The Fissures, immense crevices in the rocks, several hundred feet deep and four feet and upwards in width. In this vicinity is Profile Cliff, where the imaginative may conjure up any number of strange faces on the jagged wall of the mountain. The trail continues past Cathedral Spires, Dewey Point and Stanford Point to the Wawona Road, which it joins near Fort Monroe, the post of the government troops guarding the Yosemite National Park. Beyond is Inspiration Point, 1,200 feet above the floor of the valley. The wonderful out' look from here justifies the name. A remarkable formation seen on the Pohono Trail near Dewey Point is the Leaning Tower, its summit 1,900 feet above the valley. This granite shaft was known to the Indians as "Hunto," or "The Watching Eye." Another trail from Glacier Point is that to the top of Sentinel Dome, which has already been described. Wawona and the Mariposa Grove of Big Trees are reached by road from Glacier Point. One of the most popular of the trail trips from Glacier Point is that to lllilouette Falls. At this place the creek (South Fork of the Merced) makes a plunge of 370 feet into the gorge below. The Indian name (sometimes given as Tululoweack) signifies "rushing v/ater." From here the trail leads past Register Rock to Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls. The Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls are on the Merced River between Yosemite Valley and Little Yosemite. These falls may be reached from Glacier Point by the route just out- lined, or by the trail along the valley floor. The latter route continues up the river past the Happy Isles, at the head of the valley, where the Merced foams in the shadow of mighty cliffs. The trail continues to the right of the bold crag known as Grizzly Peak; looking up the canyon to the right a glimpse is obtained of Illilouette Falls. A short distance farther on, and from the bridge across the river, the sight of Vernal Falls bursts upon the visitor. The direct descent of these falls is 350 feet, with tumultuous cascades at the base. The trail leads to the top of the falls, where one may safely look down upon the rushing waters, leaning over a natural balustrade of granite. The Indians called Vernal Falls "Pi-wa-ack," signify- ing "The Cataract of Diamonds.' Less than a mile by trail beyond this waterfall are the Nevada Falls, where the river leaps thundering downward for 594 feet. The setting is ma- jestic, with the strangely-formed Cap of Liberty towering above. The water is guided by a peculiar curve in the granite channel, which makes the waters swirl as they fall. This caused the Indians to call the waterfall "Yowive," or "The 343 Twisted One." Nevada Falls, in the wildness of their sur- roundings, their height and the volume of water, are among tlie most remarkable in the world. The Cap of Liberty rises 2,000 feet above the falls, and may be ascended from the northeast. Beyond is Mount Broderick, which has an eleva- tion of 6,705 feet. Farther up the Merced is Little Yosemite Valley, a picturesque canyon about 3 miles In length, with the Sugar-Loaf at its upper end. To the south, beyond the meadows, rises Mount Starr King, its summit 9,081 feet above sea-level. This is one of the loftiest peaks in the region. From Nevada Falls a trail leads to Illilouette Falls and Glacier Point. On this route is Panorama Point, 4,000 feet above the river, the highest continuous wall in the Park. The trip into Tenaya Canyon should not be omitted from the itinerary of the traveler. The road leads to the head of Yosemite Valley, and turns to the northeast into Tenaya Can- yon. On the right is the great Half Dome, dominating the whole upper part of the valley. This mountain, known also as the South Dome, is as unique in its formation as is the Matterhorn. The front, facing the canyon, is almost a sheer precipice for 2,00'0 feet, while to the rear the dome rises in a smooth curve. The summit of the Half Dome is 5,000 feet above the valley. It may be attained from the trail which leads to the base of the mountain by a difficult climb, and a somewhat hazardous rope ascent of 900 feet. There is a sug- gestion of mystery about the formation of the Half Dome, since "the other half," if there ever was one, has disappeared without leaving a trace. The base of the mountain is not a talus slope, but is of solid granite, and the debris at the foot is entirely insufficient to account for the vanished half. Some geologists suggest that it sank in the granitic ooze after the dome had been fractured by some upheaval of nature. The Indians called the Half Dome "Ti~sa-ack," the name of the god- dess of the valley, and here was the reputed home of the deity. Soon after entering Tenaya Canyon the traveler reaches Mirror Lake. This beautiful sheet of water is, indeed, hap- pily named, for upon its placid surface are perfectly reflected the towering forms of the Half Dome, Clouds' Rest and Mount Watkins. Sunrise upon Mirror Lake is justly famed, and the visit to this part of the Park should be made in time to see the sun cast its first light upon the waters — about 7 o'clock in the morning in the summer season. The reflections are most perfect in the early mornings. The lake is, of course, the chief attraction of Tenaya Canyon, but there are many striking scenic features in this vicinity. Mount Watkins and 344 the Basket Dome rise to the north of the canyon, the former 8,400 feet and the latter 7,602 feet above sea-level. Beyond Mount Watkins is the Quarter Dome, and farther on is lofty Clouds' Rest, its crest 6,000 feet above the valley floor (9,924 feet above sea-level). The Trails, which lead to various points of interest, are im- portant. Of these trails probably the best are those lead- ing to Vernal Falls and Nevada Falls and Glacier Point, but there are a number of others which are excellent. The dis- tances along these trails to objective points, from Sentinel Ho- tel, are here given: To foot of Upper Yosemite Falls, 2% miles; top of Upper Yosemite Falls, 4 miles; Yosemite Point, 5 miles; Eagle Peak, 7 miles; top of Vernal Falls, 5 miles; top of Nevada Falls, 6 miles; Little Yosemite Valley, 8 miles; Clouds' Rest, 11 miles; Glacier Point (short, trail), 414 miles; Sentinel Dome, ^Vz miles; Glacier Point via Vernal and Ne- vada Falls, 11 miles. From Glacier Point to Inspiration Point via the Dewey Trail, 11 miles. On the map accompanying this description of Yosemite the trails are indicated by light dotted lines. The rougher trails leading to various points of interest in the National Park are too numerous to be given here. They may be found described and illustrated on a map of the Park in the Bulletin of General Information concerning the Park, issued by the Department of the Interior. One of the most popular of the trips is to PTetch-Hetchy Valley, described in a previous portion of this work. The Roads in Yosemite are under government supervision, and are in good repair. The distances to objective points on the roads from Sentinel Hotel are: Mirror Lake, 3 miles; Mirror Lake by way of Happy Isles, round trip 7 miles; foot of Yosemite Falls, one-half mile; El Capitan Bridge, 3 miles; Bridal Veil Falls, 4 miles; Pohono Bridge, 5 miles; Cascades, 8 miles; Happy Isles, 2^^ miles; In- spiration Point, 8 miles. 40. After leaving California California occupies a position which renders it an ideal starting-point for the attractive regions of the Western United States, for the breeze-swept islands of the Pacific, the seduc- tive Orient and the antipodean lands under the Southern Cross. The tourist from the East, who has seen California, may return home by a number of interesting routes. He may 345 visit Arizona and New Mexico, with their ancient pueblos and interesting missions; the Grand Canyon of the Colorado lies not far from the main route. He may visit Nevada, whose sil- ver mines on the famed Comstock lode have added much to the wealth of the nation; he may see the state of Utah and the beautiful city which adorns the shore of the Great Salt Lake. He may see Colorado, with its Rocky Mountain scen- ery, whose grandeur makes it known abroad. Mexico, to the southward, offers a world of romance to the tourist in search of adventure. The tourist who leaves California by the Northern route enters the state of Oregon, reaching Portland (the Rose City) and the pleasant valley of the Willamette. Farther on is the great state of Washington; the enterprising communi- ties which border Puget Sound are typically American, and hold much to interest visitors. From here can be reached the mountain scenery and magnificent glaciers of British Col- umbia; Vancouver Island is noted for its beauty. The tourist may travel eastward from California by several routes. He may view the Canadian Rockies or traverse the no less grand region to the south, passing through the states of Idaho, Mon- tana and Wj^oming. The Yellowstone National Park and Gla- cier National Park are two of the celebrated scenic attractions of this region. The Panama Canal, that stupendous monument to Ameri- can energy and enterprise, is reached from San Francisco by a number of ocean routes. From here also are most easily ac- cessible South American countries bordering on the Pacific Ocean. A number of steamship lines operate between San Fran- cisco and foreign ports, offering opportunities to tourists to visit many delightful lands. New Zealand, Australia, Japan, China and Tahiti are among the most popular with travelers. Outlying possessions of the United States are of particular in- terest. Alaska, with its glaciers and rugged mountain scenery, is reached by several lines operating by way of Portland and Seattle> The Hawaiian Islands may be visited by means of rapid steamships. The "Paradise of the Pacific" never fails to interest the tourist. Beyond lie the Philippine Islands. These are only a few of the places to be visited from Cali- fornia. The whole expanse of the "Great Ocean," with its myriad of islands, is open before you. California is the gate- way to half the world. 4 1 . Coast Steamship Lines There are a number of steamship lines along the California coast which afford excellent opportunities for varying the rail- road travel with sea voyages. The Pacific Coast Steamship Company's lines from San Francisco run to Santa Barbara, San Diego and Los Angeles to the south; the city of Eureka (Humboldt Bay) is reached by another line. The "Big Three" Line (San Francisco and Portland Steamship Company), offers a direct route between San Francisco and Port Los Angeles (San Pedro). Besides these there are several smaller steamship lines which connect the various coast ports. The river and bay steamship lines are mentioned in other portions of this book. 42. Railways in California steam Railroads (miles of owned and leased lines) : Southern Pacific Lines, 4.206.84; Santa Fe Lines, 1,385.68; Western Pacific Railway Company, 390.62; Northwestern Pacific, 413.60; San Pedro, Los Angeles & Salt Lake, 246.41; Nevada-California-Oregon, 196.92; Tonopali and Tidewater, 144.60; Pacific Coast, 103.05; San Diego & South Eastern and San Diego & Arizona, 88.46; Yosemite Valley, 79.17; Sierra Railway Company of California, 75.64. Electric Interurban Railways: Pacific Electric Lines, 837.76; San Francisco-Oakland Terminal Railways, 227.20; Northern Electric Lines, 141.00; Central California Traction, 63.56; Peninsular, 63.15; San Francisco, Napa & Calistoga, 33.84; Petaluma & Santa Rosa, 31.60, Oakland, Antioch and Eastern Railway. 'iZ) # ^ Ind ex Ager 217 Asnew 320 Agua Caliente 2;J4 Alameda 74-75 Alameda County 68-82, 255 Alamitos Beach 164 Albany 77 Albion 239 Alcatraz Island 63 Alhambra 299 Alpaugh 285 Alpine County 298 Alpine Tavern 166 Alta 251 Altadena 165 Alturas 248 Alum Rock Park 02 Alvarado 320 Alviso 93 Amador County 260 Amedee 247 Amsterdam 26S Anaheim 169 Anderson 2U9 Angel Island 63 Ang-el's Camp 272 Angels 272 Angiola 285 Antloch 195 Appleg-ate 250 Aptos 100 Areata 242 Arlington 309 Arm.ona 284 Aromas 102 Arrowhead Springs 303 Arroyo Grande 121 Asti 237 Atascadero 117 Atolia 293 Atwater 263 Auburn 250 Avalon 160 Avila 119 Avon 195 Azusa 169 Bagbv 276 Baird 213 Bakersfield 281 Balboa 165 Ball's Ferry 210 Banning- 314 Barstow 317 Bassett's 204 Bay Point 195 Beaumont 314 Beckwourth Pass 246 Bella Vista 209 Bellota 258 Belmont 85 Benicia 187 Ben Lomond 100 Berenda 264, 277 Berkelej^ 75-82 Betteravia 123 Beverly Hills 154 Bidwell's Bar 202 Big- Basin 100 Big-Lvs 205 Big- Oak Flat 269 Big- Pine 295 Big- Meadows 245 Big- Trees — Big- Basin Grove 100 Calaveras Groves 272-3 California Grovo 323 Fremont Grove 96 General Grant Grove 323 Giant Forest 323, 326 Mariposa Grove 277 Tuolumne Grove 270 Bishop 294, 296 Bloomfield 254 Bloomington 301 Boca 245, 252 Bodie 297 Bohemian Grove 235 Bolinas Bay 233 Bonnie Doon 99 Boulder Creek 100 Bowman 250 Boyes Springs 234 Brawley 316 Bridgeport 297 Broderick 189 Brookdale 100 Brown's Valley 202 Buckman's Springs 179 Buena Vista Lake 282 Bully Hill 213 Burbank 133, 291 Burlingame 84 Butte County 205 Byron Springs 195 Cache Creek 198 Cahuer.ga Pass 153 Calaveras Big Trees 272 Calaveras County 271 348 Calexico 316 Calico Hills 317 Calientc 2S9 California Redwood Park. .100 California Springs 288, 321 Calistoga 225 Camarillo 132 Cambria 117 Camino Real ,. . .90, 177 Camp Dixie 236 Camp Meeker 233 Camptonville 203 Camulos 135 Capay 1S8 Cape Mendocino 243 Capitola 100 Carisa Plain 118 Carmel 109 Carpinteria 130 Cariiuinez Straits 186 Casitas Pass 133 Castle Crags 213 Castroville 102 Catalina Island 160 Cave of Calaveras 272 Cayucos 117 Cazadero 235 Cenierville 320 Ceres 263 Channel Islands 129, 160 Chanslor . 115 Chicago Park 253 Chieo 205 Chinese Camp 269 Chino 301 Cholame 117 Chular 114 Chula Vista ISl Cisco 252 Claremont 300 Clear Lake 228 Clipper Gap ... .■ ... 250 Cloverdale 237 Coachella Valley ■".14 Coalinga 285 Coarse Gold 265 Colfax 251 Coloma 222 Coltjn o\J2 Columbia 270 Colusa 218 Colusa County 217 Conc-.rd 195 Congress Springs 93 Contra Costa County 186 Copi)eropolis 258, 272 Corcoran 285 Cordelia 188, 221 Cornir.g 220 Corona 308 Corona Del Mar 165 Coronado 177 Cottonwood 209 Coultervilb3 . 276 Covina 299 Crescent City 242 Crocker's 270 Crockett 18(5 Crow's Landing- 279 Cuesta 118 Caayamaca 184 Cypress Point 108 Daggett 318 Daly City 63 Davenport 99 Davis 188 Deadman's Island 159 Death Valley 293, 318 Decoto 256 Delano '2,'il Del Mar 173 Del Monte 103 Del Norte County 242 Delta Region 194 Diamond Springs 222 Dinuba 286 Dixon 187 Donner Lake 252 Downieville 203 Drake's Bay 232 Ducor 288 Dumbarton 114 Duncan Mills 235 Dunsmuir 214 Dutch Flat 251 East Ba.y Cities 67 Echo Mountain 166 Edgev/ood 216 Edison 289 El Cajon 183 El Camino Real 90, 177 El Camino Sierra 291 ElCentro 316 El Dorado County 221 El Pasear 291 EI Pizmo 123 El Portal 276 El Segundo 156 Elsinore 312 El wood 125 ETnerA^ville 73 Emig-rant Gap 252 Escondido 180 Etiwanda 301 Eureka 241 Exchequer 276 Exeter 287 Fairfax 232 Fairlield 187 349 Fair Oaks 221 Fallbrook ISO Fall River 202 Fall River 211 Famoso 2S1 Farallone 66 Farniing-ton 267 Feather River Canyon 244 Felton 96 Fernaiulo 290 Fillmore 133 FirebaxiQh 279 Floriston 202 Folsom 221 Forest Hill 251 Fort Brag-g- 239 Fort Tones 217 Fort Romie 115 Fort Rosocrans 178 Fort Ross 235 Fort Tejon 289 Fowler j:>>u Fremont Grove 96 Fremont's Peak 112 Fresno 265 Fresno County 265 Fruitvale 72 Fullorton 169 Fulton 236 Gabilan Mountains 112 Calt 260 Gaviota 125 Gazelle 216 Georg-etown 222 Geysers 237 Geysersville 236 Giant ii;6 Giant Forest 323, 326 Gilrny 101 Gilrov Spring's 102 Glen Kllen 234 Glenn Countj' 219 Glenwood 96 Glen wood Mission Inn 306 Goat Island 63 Gold Run 251 Goleta 125 Gon'-cales . . 114 Goodyear's Bar 203 Goose Lake 2 48 Granada 66 Grass Valley 253 Greenfield 115 GridUn- 205 Grizzly Peak 77 Grossmont 183 Guadalupe 123 Gualoma 179 Guorneville 235 Guinda 198 Gustine 279 Half Moon G7 Hamilton 220 Hanford 284 Harrison Gulch 209 Hay ward 255 Healdsburg 236 Hemet 311 Hermosa Beach 156 Heroult 213 Hetch-Hetchy Valley 273 Hickman 268 High grove 303 nillsbDroug-h 84 Hodson 258 Hollister 110 Hollvwood 153 HoUville 316 Honey Lake 247 PTopland 237 Hornbrook 217 Hornitos 275, 276 Horse liakt; 247 Hot Spring- Valley 245 HutMieme 132 Humboldt Bay 241 Humboldt County 241 Huntington Beach 164 Idyllwild 312 Ignacio 229 Igo 209 Imperial 316 Imperial County 315 Tndio 315 Invo County 293 Tone 261 Towa Hill 251 Iron Mountain 212 Irvington 319 Jackson 261 ,Tacks<3nville 269 Jamestown 270 Jamul 179 Jolon 120 Julian 134 Keddie 244 Kelseyville 227 Kennett 212 Kermon 279 Kern Canyon 3 20, 325 Kern County 281 Kernville 289 Keswick 212 King City 115 Kings Canyon 320, 323 Kin.^^s County 284 Thing's Highway, Camino Real 90, 177 350 Klamath Springs 217 Knight's Ferry 267 Knight's Landing 198 La Gumbre Peak 128 La Grange 268 La HDnda 86 La Jolla 181 La Mesa 183 La Purisima Mission 124 La Kamada 169 La Soledad Mission 114 Lake Chabot 73 Lake County 227 Lake Eleanor 274 Lake Elsinore 313 Lake Merced . . • 65 Lakeport 227 Lake Region of Sierras. . . .203 Lake Tahoe 326 Lancaster 290 Las Cruces 125 Lassen County 246 Lassen Peak 210 Lathrop 262 Laton 2S4 Latrobe 221 Lemon Cove 287 Lemon Grove 182 Lenioore 285 Lewiston 211 Lick Observatory 94 Lillis 284 Lindsay 287 Little Shasta Va.lley .216 Live Oak 205 Livermore 196, 256 Livingston • • • • 253 Lobitos 67 Lockeford 259 Lockwood Vallej^ 134 Lodi 259 Loma Prieta 96 Lompoc 124 Lone Pine 294 Long Beach 161 Lookout Mounte,in 153 Loomis 250 Los Alamos • . .122 Los Angeles 136-148, 168 Los Angeles Aqueduct 137 Los Angeles County 132 LosBanos 279 Los Gatos 9 4 Los Molinos 207 Los Olivos 122 Lower Lake 228 Loyalton 245 Madeline 248 Madera 264 Madera County 264 Mare Island 188 Marion County 229 Mariposa 226 Mariposa Big Trees 277 Mariposa County 275 Martinez 194 Marysville 200 Marys ville Buttes 109 Matilija Canyon 134 Mayfield 89 McCloud River 213 McKittrick 283 Melrose 72 Mendocino City 239 MJendocino County 237 Mendota 279 Menlo Park 86 Merced 263 Merced County 263 Merced River 275-6 Meridian 199 Mesa Grande 183 Mexicali 316 Middletown 227 Midway Point 108 Midland Trail 296 Mills College 71 Mill Valley 64 Millwood 286 Milton 258 Mission Play 152 Mission San Jcse 319 Missions — Carmel 109 L'olores 44 La Parisima 124 La Soledad 114 Pala 179 San .Antonio de Padua. .. .120 San Antonio de Pala 179 San Buenaventura 131 San Carlos 109 San Diego 176 San F'ernando 290 San Gabriel 151 San Jose 319 San .Tuan Bautista. Ill Sail Juan Capistrano . . . .170 San Luis Obispo 119 San Luis Rey 172 San Miguel 116 San Rafael 229 Santa Barbara 126 Santa Clxra 90 Santa Cruz 98 Santa Ynez 122 Santa Ysabel 183 Solano 233 Modesto 262 Modoc County 218 351 Modoc Lava Beds 248 Mojavo 289 Mojave Desert 289, 317 Mokelumne Hill 260 Mono County 296 Mono Lake 297 Mont.igue 216 Montalvo 132 Montara 66 Monterey 103-108 Monterey Bay 98, 106 Monterey County 102 Monte Rio. . . 235 Monticello 224 Moonstone Beach 157 Mooretown 202 Morgan Hill lOl Morro Rock 117 Moss Beach 66 Mountain View 89 Mount Dana 297 Mount Diablo 186, 195 Mount Hamilton 94 Mount Hermon 96 Mount Lowe 165 Mount St. Helena 226 Mount Shasta 215 Mount Tamalpais 64, 232 Mount Wilson lev Mount Whitney 294 Murphys 272 Nacimiento 115 Napa 224 Napa County 223 Napa Junction 223 Naples 164 National City 184 Needles 318 Nevada City 253 Nevada County 253 New Almaden 93 Newark 320 Newcastle 250 New Idria 110 Newman 279 New Monterey 106 Newport 165 Niles 256 Nojoqui Falls 125 Nordhoff 133 North Fork 265 North Island 177 North San Juan 254 Noyo River 239 Oakdale 267 Oak Knoll 165 Oakland 68-74 Oat Hill 226 Occidental College 140 Ocean Beach 178 Oceano 123 Ocean Park 155 Oceanside 171 Oil Fields 282, 285 Oiai Valley 133 Old Town 176 O'Neals 265 Ono 209 Ontario 301 Orange 170 Orange Counts'^ 169 Oregon Hills 203 Orizaba 161 Orland 219 Oroville 202 Oso Flaco Valley 121 Otav 185 Owens Lake 294 Owens River 137. 293 Oxnard 132 Pacific Beach 181 Pacific Grove 106 Painted Cave 125 Pajaro 102 Paiaro Valley 101, 95 Pala 179 Palermo 201 Palisade Glacier 295 Palnidale 318 Palm Springs 314 Palo Alto 87 Panama-California Exposi- tion ; .175 Panama-Pacific Exposition 56, 59 Paraiso Springs 114 Pasadena 148, 165 Pasear 291 Paso Robles 116 Patterson 278 Pebble Beach 67 Penryn 250 Perris 311 Pesoadero 67, 86 Petaluma 229, 230 Pico Blanco 110 Piedmont 71 Pieta 237 Pillar Point 66 Pitt River 210, 213 Pittsburg 195 Placer County 249 Placerville 222 Playa Del Rey 156 Pleasanton 256 Plumas County 244 Plumas Junction 246 Point Arena 240 Point Fermin 159 352 Point Lobos 110 Point Loma. , 178 Point Pinos 107 Point San Pedro G6 Point Sur 110 Point Reyes 2.J2 Poller Flat 204 Pomona 300 Port Costa 1S6 Portervilie 2S8 Port Harford 119 Port Los Ang-eles 158 Portola 215 Port San Jose 93 Port San Luis 119 Potter Valley 238 Pi-inceton-by-the-Sea 06 Purisima 67 Purisima Mission 124 Quincy 244 Ramona's House 135 Randsburg- 293 Raymond 27? Red Bluff 207 Redding- 209 Rcdlands 309 Redondo 157 Redwood City 85 Reedley 286 Richardson Springs 206 Richr/iond 82, 83 Rio Vista 188 Ripon 262 Riverside 305 Riverside County 304 Roblar 231 Rockaway Beach 66 Rockliti 250 Rodeo 186 Roseville .250 Rowardennan 100 Rubio Canyon 165 Rumsey 198 Russian River 230, 235 Sacramento 189-194 Sacramento County 259 Sacramento River 189 Sacramento Valley 190 Saint Helena 225 Salada 66 Salinas 113 Salinas Valley 113 Saline City 93 Saitoh Sea 315 Sanger 286 San Andreas 260 San Anselmo 232 San Antone Falls 273 San Antonio de Padua 120 San Antonio de Pala 179 San Ardo 115 San Benito County 110 San Bernardino 302 San Bernardino County 300 San Buenaventura 131 San Carlos Mission 109 San Clemente Island 160 San Diego 173-179 San Diego County 171 San Dimas 169 San Emigdio 283 San Felician 134 San Fernando 137, 290 San Francisco 33-63 San Francisco Bay 35 San Gabriel 149 San Oabriel River 164 San Gabriel Valley 299 San Gorgonlo Pass 314 San Jacinto 311 San Joaquin County Zbl San Joaquin River 258 San Jose. 91-92 San Jose Mission 319 San Juan Ill San .Tua.n Capistrano 170 San .Tuan Ridge 254 San Leandro 255 San Lorenzo River 96, 100 San Lucas 115 San Luis Obispo 118 San Luis Obispo County... 115 San Luis Rey 172 San MRrcos Pass 125, 128 San Marino 167 San Mateo 85 Sa,n Mateo County 84 San Miguel 115 San Nicolas Island 160 San Onofre 171 San Pablo 186 San Pasqual 180 San Pedro 158 San Pedro Valley 66 San Rafael. . . -. 229 San Rafael Mountains 135 San Ram.on 196 San Simeon 117 San Tsidro 185 Santa Ana 170 Santa Barbara 126-130 Santa Barbara Channel. . . .129 Santa Barbara County 123 Santa Catalina Island 160 Santa Clara 89 Santa Clara County 86 Santa Clara Valley (North). 86 Santa Clara Valley (South). 135 Santa Cruz 98 353 Santa Cruz County 95 Santa Cruz Island 129 Santa Cruz Mountains 100 Santa Lucia Mountains .... IIS Santa Margarita 118 Santa Maria 1^2 Santa Monica 1 r>4 Santa Paula 1-55 Santa Riia 113 Santa Rosa --il Santa Susana 1 >2 Santa Ynez Mission 122 Santa Ynez Mountains ....123 Santa Ynez Peak 125 Santa Ysabel 183 Santa Ysabel Springs 117 Sargent 102 Saticoy 135 Saugus 136, 290 Sausalito 64, 229 Sawtelle 154 Schellville 233 Scott Valley 217 Seabright 09 Seaside 103 Sebastopol 232 Selraa 280 Sequoia 270 Sequoia National Park 323 Serrano 118 Sespe Creek 134 Seventeen-Mile Drive 107 Shasta 211 Shasta County 208 Shasta Springs 214 Sherman 154 Sherwood 240 Shorb 299 Sierra City 203 Sierra County 203 Sierra Madre .167 Sierra Valley 204 Sierra Vista 167 Signal Peak 276 Silver Strand 177 Simi Valley 132 Sisar Peak i34 Siskiyou County 214 Sisquoc 122 Sisson 215 Sites 218 Skaggs Springs 237 Slate Springs 110 Snelling 275 Solano County 187 Soledad 114 Soledad Mountain 1S2 Sonoma 233 Sonoma County 230 Sonora 270 Socfuel 99 South Pasadena 118 !