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Extracts and Sketches 
 
 FROM MY JOURNAL OF A 
 YEARS TRAVEL IN THE 
 
 Orient and Europe 
 
 WITH THE USUAL EXPENSE, HOTEL MENU, 
 
 TAILOR, MILLINERY AND SHOPPING 
 
 ACCOUNTS OMITTED 
 
 >. 
 
 PEN DRAWINGS BY FREDRICK MALLISTER FROM ORIGINAL 
 PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN ON THE JOURNEY 
 
-^ 
 
 1 ST 
 
 K vjp 1>%j 
 
 LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Tv.-o Copies Received 
 JAN 7 1909 
 
 Copyriirnt Entry A 
 &ASS oL XXc. No 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 HE visit to foreign lands, made by my 
 family and self, during the past year, was 
 accompanied by such continued good luck 
 in all respects that I can enjoy its remem- 
 brance the more if I can but witness the 
 satisfaction of having my friends, to whom 
 it is a privilege to present this souvenir description, go 
 with me over the most interesting paths where we have 
 been and see, with us, some of the sights that we have 
 seen. To those who have not been abroad, it would 
 of course be of interest to start in with the departure 
 signal of our steamer, November 14, 1907, for Liverpool, 
 but the necessary limitation on the patience of those kind 
 enough to honor this account with their attention, is such 
 as to preclude all reference to common place experiences, 
 which, as to those who know not what they are, lose 
 nothing by their omission, and as to those who do know 
 them, they would gain nothing by their statement. 
 
 The notes on the pages of my Journal that are under- 
 scored as special, I have selected. As to those you know 
 about (and I assume there are a few that you may not 
 know of), do not waste your time with them. If there 
 are others, on which a new sidelight, either with a draw- 
 ing or the pen is thrown, or a new feature is shown, it 
 may be of interest for you to examine into and read at 
 least a part of the same. 
 
 I do not care, however, to guarantee that your 
 trouble will yield you any dividend, but if it does not, 
 I am sure by this gratituous offering you will not sus- 
 tain a pecuniary loss, to say the least. 
 
DEDICATION 
 
 This journal is affectionately dedicated to my beloved wife 
 and our dear mother, Mrs. L. S. Northrup, who so much 
 contributed to the inexpressible delight of this charming journey. 
 It is intended for their EXCLUSIVE use and that of friends, 
 to whom it is a valued privilege to present the same as an 
 humble souvenir of the NEW YEAR, 1909. 
 
 JOHN M. GARDNER. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 England. 
 
 F"JslE embarked safely at Liverpool about 9 
 A. M., from the steamer "Celtic" and once 
 more we pressed the soil of our forefathers. 
 The approach to the port is for several 
 hours up the Mercy River, narrow and 
 winding in and out, here and there with 
 more or less populous towns and cities of an industrial 
 and commercial appearance skirting its shores. Our 
 sojourn in England was about two weeks, visiting only 
 Liverpool, Chester and London, at an unseasonable period 
 of the year, when the natural beauty and rural attrac- 
 tiveness of the country were displaced by a cheerless 
 climate and sunless skies. 
 
 While many incidents in business and street life and 
 language and habits of the English people interest one 
 as being much different from our own country, and never 
 fail to excite the keenest curiosity, and set at work the 
 involuntary sense of unconscious comparison of new and 
 strange things and customs with those at home, and with 
 which we are familiar, we will mention only a few, which 
 to some extent illustrate the substantial difference in the 
 national life of two great English speaking peoples. 
 First of all is noticeable in England a strong tendency 
 and adherence to formality and ceremony in private and 
 public life, and while the social and official life of all 
 countries exhibit more or less observance of conven- 
 tionality in such matters, it is true, yet, the British are 
 especially intolerant of any laxity in its public or social 
 functions or change from those of ancient origin. A 
 
Judges in wigs and 
 gowns with Sheriff 
 in red, attending 
 Court. 
 
 few observations noted at the time will demonstrate this 
 fact. 
 
 Opposite our hotel in Liverpool is the public building 
 called St. George's Hall, in which among other things, 
 the Court of Assizes for the city and county are quar- 
 terly held, presided over by two or three judges accord- 
 ing to the number of parts required by the amount of 
 criminal business to be transacted. 
 
 The blowing of a bugle about noon in front of our 
 room, and the sudden array of a dozen personages in 
 high white hats, blue coats with brass buttons and 
 knickerbockers, sword in hand, walked forth with the 
 pompous show of military erectness. Following these 
 guards were two honorable judges of the circuit holding 
 the Court, approaching their carriage, which was await- 
 ing their august presence. Long white wigs of lamb's 
 wool, hung down a foot or more over their shoulders, 
 hanging from and covering the tops of their heads, which 
 were hatless. They were wrapped in long robes of red 
 with strips of white ermine in front. Behind them was 
 the High Sheriff of the County, hatless, with scarlet red 
 coat and black pants, accompanied by several liveried 
 attendants. The carriage was a beautiful heavy coach in 
 white, constructed on the lines of an old royal coach 
 of State, used centuries ago, and, before it, were four 
 prancing steeds of graceful form well groomed, har- 
 nessed in trappings of burnished brass. The driver and 
 footman were dressed in knickerbockers with wigs and 
 brass buttons. As the stately procession of guards, 
 judges, sheriff and attendants walked majestically to the 
 carriage from the Court, to the music of the bugle, the 
 crowd separated for their passage. On entering the car- 
 riage, judges first, and sheriff after, and the closing of 
 the massive doors, the great whip snapped and the champ. 
 
guards. 
 
 ing four-in-hand wheeled about and into, and up the 
 street with a clatter of hoofs and jingle of trappings 
 that made an automobile seem like a push cart in style 
 and go, beside this exhibition of pomp and luxury. 
 
 On the Sunday following, we attended the Pro 
 Cathedral, the oldest house of worship in Liverpool, a 
 small and picturesque pile of crumbling stone in the 
 center of the great commercial city. 
 
 Just before the commencement of the service the 
 same coach drove up at the entrance, accompanied by 
 the same attendant and guards, and containing the same 
 distinguished occupants. They alighted, pompous with 
 wig and woolsack, and majestically walked to a pew 
 inside, preceded and followed by the usual guards and 
 
 attendants, with the high sheriff decorated in red, he Worship in wool- 
 being the commander of the guards, with staff in hand. sac ^ J and Wlgs w 
 
 After all were settled and seated in due and formal 
 style, the service commenced, and we felt that, at last 
 before the altar of Christ every one appeared humble 
 and suppliant as simple souls and followers of, and de- 
 pendent upon Him our Shepherd in whose fold we all 
 were, the wig and wigless, woolsacked and woolsackless 
 alike. The observance of this strange but picturesque 
 and solemn ceremony, with which the coming and depar- 
 ture from Court and church of these honorable justices 
 is of very ancient origin, preceding the Cromwellian 
 period, and since uninterruptedly and universally fol- 
 lowed. 
 
 Its primary purpose was. and still is, to invest the 
 judiciary with the utmost dignity and impress the sub- 
 jects of the empire with the official importance of its 
 judicial ministers in whose hands their vast and sacred 
 rights of person and property are jealously guarded and 
 maintained. 
 
Social rules omit 
 introduction of 
 mutual friends, at 
 home, unless 
 requested. 
 
 In further illustration of the conspicuous tendency of 
 the English people to the strictest formality in social mat- 
 ters as well as official, I can not refrain from noting an 
 experience at the home of very dear friends of ours in 
 London, upon whom we called to excuse and explain in 
 person the non-acceptance of a very cordial invitation to 
 dine. When reaching their home, we were asked into 
 their drawing room to see them and exchange cordial 
 greetings after several years of absence from one another. 
 In the room were some good friends of theirs with whom 
 they were conversing, and yet, curiously enough, they 
 turned from them, warmly greeted us in their immediate 
 presence, asked us to be seated ; and we did so, apparently 
 as guests in common. The conversation continued 
 between us all before leaving the room after half hour's 
 visit, although we were not introduced to their guests. 
 We could not attribute this omission to observe the usual 
 habit with us of a formal introduction to any lack of 
 respect, for, whether good or bad, we had been com- 
 plimented by a most hearty solicitation to dine with 
 them as the result of a warm friendship for years between 
 us, evidenced by many cordial tokens of its sincerity. 
 On the other hand, we knew their guests were of high 
 social standing from what we learned after their depar- 
 ture, and for whom they entertained the highest regard. 
 We learned, however, from reliable sources, that it is 
 one of the social rules of the English to omit a formal 
 introduction of mutual friends in many cases of informal 
 functions, unless one or the other express a desire accord- 
 ingly. 
 
 The same formality of intercourse is quite observ- 
 able in all the hotels and other public places. At the 
 hotel where we stopped in Liverpool, the largest in the 
 city, and accommodating several hundred guests, most 
 
 8 
 
of whom were transients, and where in our country 
 bustle and conversational clattering in and about drawing 
 and dining rooms would be expected and experienced, 
 we could scarcely discern a noise or the sound of a voice 
 above a whisper. Although in the dining room at din- 
 ner and lunch at least ioo or more small or family 
 groups, we heard no voice and all was as grave, solemn 
 and silent as though a funeral service were in progress. 
 The waiters too, attired in immaculate dress, were ex- 
 tremely quiet in their service, moving and gliding about 
 noiselessly with agility and closest attention to their work 
 in hand over carpeted floors. The effect, at once, of 
 this silence is invariably to deeply impress one, that he 
 is in a place where conversation above a whisper or 
 laughing aloud, is strictly prohibited by the unwritten 
 law of the management, an infringement of which would 
 be visited by serious consequences, or social disgrace, . . , , . 
 with the result that he unconsciously as a respectful guest, a ser ious offense, 
 falls in line with the rest, loses his tongue and pro- 
 ceeds forthwith to utilize his teeth and elbows. The 
 respectful attention of the waiters in English hotels, their 
 immaculate appearance, the quiet atmosphere and the 
 almost oppressive silence and conventionality, pervading 
 in their dining and drawing rooms, evince in no small 
 degree the strong proclivity of the people as a nation to 
 social ceremony. The conditions alluded to we experi- 
 enced in all the hotels at which we were guests, while 
 in fact, it can be safely assumed they are of quite univer- 
 sal prevalence throughout all England. 
 
 The people are not flashy and pretentious, but quiet 
 and reserved in all classes and conditions of life as they 
 appear to a traveler in their midst. Moreover, they 
 manifest a most cordial and sincere friendship and 
 warmth of attachment when once the cold ice of formality 
 
 9 
 
is broken and you become acquainted with them. 
 Whether the pomp of public ceremony and social exclu- 
 siveness characterizing the national life of the country and 
 distinguishing it perhaps from any other, except Spain, 
 are conducive to the welfare and culture of its subjects 
 and strength of its government, may be a topic which 
 evokes difference of opinion. It is not the purpose of 
 these notes to enter upon the field of political discussion, 
 or philosophic discourse concerning the right or wrong 
 of the nation's characteristics, to which we have referred. 
 Speaking from a personal point of view, however, I can 
 not refrain from an expression of great admiration for 
 the respect which British subjects show to public officials, 
 and the jealous regard and high esteem in which they 
 hold the law and which in no small measure the ceremony 
 attending the presence of its judicial ministers, no doubt, 
 excite. 
 
 As to social etiquette, whose code of laws is equally 
 enforced and uniformly respected and with as much 
 severity as the civil statutes, I do not think it on the whole 
 so contributive to the happiness of the people as might 
 result from more freedom of intercourse. Familiarity 
 breeds contempt, is an old saying, and a true one ; but, 
 on the other hand, extreme formality may and often 
 does make one seem contemptuously ridiculous. This is 
 in no instance better illustrated than two persons occu- 
 pying a railway carriage seat all day, as I witnessed on 
 one occasion, between two Englishmen, both appearing 
 equally respectable and yet not exchanging one word. 
 This attitude of extreme treatment of each other made 
 it appear that each esteemed the other too high or too 
 low to address and that each was content to be wrapped 
 up in his own cloak of selfish loneliness. It is the work 
 of a gentleman to recognize in a respectful way those 
 
 10 
 
in whose presence circumstances of travel, or conditions 
 of life he is compelled to be placed. This recognition 
 may not extend further than a pleasant word of salutation 
 or kindly assistance when opportunity presents itself, 
 but to come short of this stamps the wilful offender 
 of the rule to be a person who merits condemnation as a 
 social autocrat. 
 
 It is safe to assume that there are at least in Eng- 
 land and Scotland fifty great reversionary companies, 
 possessing billions of capital, if not at least several 
 hundred millions, employed by these, companies as spec- 
 ulative investments, on lines directly opposite the great 
 life insurance companies of this country. Here capital 
 is invested in the hundreds of millions of dollars for this 
 purpose. A mutual life insurance company, as an illus- 
 tration, solicits Mr. Jackson, for a life insurance. He is 
 singled out by it as a reasonably safe subject for spec- 
 ulation on his life, and it submits to him this gambling 
 proposition ; that, being twenty-five years of age and in 
 sound health, if he will pay $1,000 a year for a given 
 length of time, and he should die before, his estate 
 will receive $25,000. This is a simple wager; in fact, 
 the amount of money the company will get from 
 him will exceed what they pay back, based upon the 
 probable longevity of his life. Jackson has a neighbor 
 of the same age, but afflicted with some incurable disease. 
 The company knowing it, shuns him and wouldn't take 
 the risk of an insurance on his life for five cents. In 
 fact, the company passes the neighbor by. In contrast 
 with this, if Jackson and his neighbor lived in London, 
 the Equitable Reversionery Society of that city would 
 pass Jackson by and hunt for his neighbor to do business 
 with. The neighbor would be the desirable life, at least, 
 with which to deal, under the following circumstances. 
 If an estate was dependent upon the life of the neighbor, 
 
 Purchase of vested 
 estates a great 
 business, but 
 unknown here. 
 
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that is, as soon as he should die, A should come into 
 possession of his estate, then the company would spec- 
 ulate entirely upon the life of the neighbor by purchasing 
 from A the estate, the value of which would depend upon 
 the probable length of the neighbor's life. In this way, 
 the life of the neighbor is made the subject of com- 
 mercial value and financial speculation, and in the case 
 of the reversionery company, the sooner he would die, 
 the more they would make. 
 
 This so-called reversionary business is more than one 
 hundred and fifty years old in England, and has grown 
 to such large dimensions that it is looked upon universally 
 as legitimate, more prosperous, and is as well known as 
 the life or fire insurance, yet strange to say, that in this 
 country of ours, although matchless as it is in its enter- 
 prises, commerce and nervous activity in all departments 
 of business, with its universal habit of adopting any and 
 all speculative methods whereby rapidly to increase the 
 wealth of individual investors, yet such a company here 
 as a reversionery company is unknown, and the very word 
 meaningless. 
 
 No visitor to England should omit a visit to Strat- 
 ford, as illustrating a quiet, old historic place, with its 
 setting in a most beautiful country. This town is char- 
 acteristic of so many English villages, containing beauty 
 and history. Shakespeare's parents immortalized it by 
 honoring the place with the birth of their distinguished 
 son, while Ann Hathaway, and her cottage, have been 
 forever linked to fame by the courtship indulged within 
 its portals between herself and the young English bard. 
 
 13 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 France. 
 
 HE stranger at a good Nice hotel at Christ- 
 mas Eve is made at home. They seem to 
 invest the atmosphere there with a spiritual 
 and temporary suggestion of the day, as 
 nowhere else it has been our opportunity to 
 observe. The dinner at the "Angleterre" 
 was served in as an elaborate and elegant a way as could 
 be, with the most formal and private function. Standing 
 out the brightest of all festive occasions during our so- 
 journ was this Christmas dinner. It was served in a most 
 beautiful but tastily decorated dining room, splendidly 
 lighted with specially prepared electric effects, amidst 
 banks of roses and flowers, cut fresh from the open 
 bushes, blooming everywhere. These, with the luxurious 
 red carpets and rich linens and Yule Tide music, together 
 with the great Christmas tree, loaded down with brilliant 
 hangings united with the unsurpassed menu of turkey and 
 seasonable delicacies, all created a lasting impression. 
 
 If one is to be away from his friends in a foreign 
 land on this day of days, far removed from the smiles 
 and good wishes of his friends, it is their good fortune, 
 if then, they can be a guest at a Nice hotel. 
 
 Often extra pains are taken to increase perhaps the 
 variety and quality of a hotel menu on holidays, but 
 none that I ever heard of, go so far as to make the dinner 
 a sumptuous state affair for the special benefit of the 
 guests, without extra charge, in celebration of the day. 
 
 The guests from various countries vied with each 
 other to mark their table with some distinctive national 
 
 14 
 
manifestation by flag, fruit or flower. We started off in 
 the morning in quest of our trophy and found amidst 
 the mountain sides, nearby, an American maple tree, the 
 only one I ever saw in Europe, growing wild, bedecked 
 with golden hued, yellow leaves. We secured several 
 large branches, and at our table the golden foliage of 
 America's most beautiful tree was blended with the blush- 
 ing roses of France. 
 
 Although advised by learned historians of the moral 
 and intellectual strength of the French, as a nation, the 
 truth of which is indicated by their wonderful history 
 in matters of art, finance, industry and their evolution- 
 ary methods of freeing themselves, the first amongst the 
 continental countries of Europe, from the grinding yoke 
 of imperial slavery, I was nevertheless, from the obser- 
 vations made of the people and their habits in Paris, 
 not inclined to give them this credit as a nation. The 
 easy Parisian caffe life and almost universal tendency 
 to habits of gaiety and dissipation that the vast majority 
 of the inhabitants of Paris, together with their emotional 
 and equivocal mentality exhibit everywhere, in all depart- 
 ments of life, always impressed me with wonder how 
 such a people could accomplish such mighty results as is 
 credited to them in matters of art, industry, military 
 achievements and political disenslavement from the iron 
 rule of the most oppressive and powerful monarchy in 
 the history of the world. My mind, however, became 
 disabused of all these questionings on a visit to the inte- 
 rior towns of the nation and among the peasant life. 
 There is to be found the key to the true French char- 
 acter, and not in Paris. 
 
 Upon its boundless plains, with their inexhaustible 
 fertility and richness of soil, thickly inhabited by a 
 thrifty, strong class of tillers of the land, dotted every- 
 
 American maple 
 leaves blend with 
 the roses of 
 France at Christmas 
 dinner. 
 
 15 
 
where, here and there, with villages and hamlets, evinc- 
 ing on every hand agricultural and industrial prosperity, 
 one finds a race of men and women unsurpassed in phy- 
 sical stature and native strength characterized by intel- 
 ligent, peaceful and industrial habits of life. This affords 
 an easy explanation for the great history that the nation 
 has. To illustrate : I visited the city of Troyes, about 
 one hundred miles southeast of Paris. This is a city con- 
 taining perhaps about fifty thousand inhabitants, in the 
 midst of a very rich country, where the land is closely cul- 
 tivated with vineyards and grain fields. To this place 
 tourists seldom, if ever, go. The city is old, rivaling 
 even Neuremberg in the antiquity of many of its struc- 
 tures and classic picturesqueness of their half fallen down 
 appearance which the gradual settlement of ages has 
 effected. Three good hotels were in the city. Either one 
 of them would rival, if not surpass in comfort and inte- 
 rior elegance, hotels in cities of equal size in our own 
 country. 
 
 At the hotel at which I stopped there were none but 
 French guests, mostly commercial travelers. As a class 
 of men, I specially noted their large physical statues, 
 generally straight and erect, not the bowlegged, small, 
 goateed, effiminate physical characteristics that we see 
 so frequently in Paris. 
 
 The people on the streets in Troyes answer to the 
 description of the guests at the hotel. More beautiful 
 stores, I can say with much assurance, are in Troyes 
 than can be found in any city of equal size in America, 
 of all kinds. The merchants, plying their various trades, 
 and the clerks in the stores, both men and women, were 
 healthy in appearance, having an air of independence and 
 that peaceful freedom which distinguishes the mental 
 spirit from that which a person, conscious of his power 
 
 16 
 
and equality always evinces. I had been taught that it 
 was only abroad in the English character to be found 
 that firery spark of freedom and love of fair play which 
 culminated in magna charta and the development of prac- 
 tically democratic England of to-day. I must confess 
 however, that, in the true French character as found 
 in its interior cities and hamlets and upon its plains, 
 there is less menial conduct and more independent and 
 self reliant mentality exhibited, than is found in classes 
 of equal station in England and Ireland, although I 
 would not say Scotland. From Troyes I went twenty 
 miles through the country to visit the little village on the 
 plains of Brienne, where the great Napoleon received 
 his first military inspirations as a student for five years. 
 All the way was a beautiful road, graded with as much 
 precision as the finest railway, of macadamized surface 
 and as smooth as rubber. 
 
 On each side of this beautiful road all the way were 
 great trees, shading it and making it a fine park drive. 
 As far as the eye could see in all directions was rich 
 land farms, luxuriant in the growth of all sorts of veg- 
 etation, grains and vineyards. Now and then we would 
 pass through small hamlets or farming villages, contain- 
 ing from two hundred to five hundred inhabitants, in 
 which the streets were immaculately clean, the houses 
 well painted, the stores well filled and the hum of industry 
 and the glare of thrift everywhere apparent. It was 
 my special curiosity to stop and converse along the way 
 now with a brawny bared-arm blacksmith at the anvil, 
 enough to get his notions of life and a reflection of his 
 inner soul, then with the merchants to get their ideas of 
 trade, of the master wine maker, the farmer and the 
 village school teacher to see if I could detect that spark 
 of freedom, courage, independence, practical turn of mind 
 
 Blacksmith at anvil 
 and farmers in the 
 fields, reflect the 
 soul of France. 
 
 17 
 
§ 2 
 •3 « 
 
and industrial inclination which must necessarily lay at 
 the foundation of a great nation's history, if it has any. 
 I found none of them wanting, and I discovered to my 
 complete satisfaction, the secret of the mighty French 
 revolution, culminating in the overthrow of the Bourbons 
 as well as the establishment of the greatest military power 
 as a nation that the world has ever seen, under the genius 
 of the great Napoleon. 
 
 The prowess of this people and its armies, from 
 1797 to 1814, eclipses in its power and splendor the grasp 
 of the Romans under the Caesars or the Greeks under 
 Alexander, and sinks into insignificance by comparison, 
 the conquests of the Persians under Darius or Xerxes. 
 
 In fact, a nation whose military arm was so strong, 
 covering a period of nearly twenty years, to plant its 
 banner on the highest pinnacle of military power achieved 
 in the history of man, overrunning and subduing ten 
 great powerful kingdoms and empires, whose combined 
 wealth and armies were swept before them like chaff 
 before the wind, battling for equality and human free- 
 dom, must necessarily possess qualities of courage, inde- 
 pendence and directness of purpose, which might well 
 challenge investigation and forces the admiration of the 
 world. Although their rule was comparatively short, yet 
 it was tremendously long, when it is considered that it 
 took the combined wealth, armies and navies of the 
 principal nations of Europe with their millions of bay- 
 onets, twenty years to restore Louis upon the throne. 
 
 It is true that their invincible leader may have clutched 
 the tri-colored flag at the bridge of Lodi and been the 
 first to unfurl its folds amidst the smoke of battle, yet, 
 without the heart and bravery of his followers, facing 
 death with irresistible courage in the cause of human 
 liberty and equality, the arms of the powerful Austrians 
 
 While Napoleon led 
 at Lodi, his fol- 
 lowers were the 
 conquerors. 
 
 19 
 
would not have been taken and their guns silenced amidst 
 a scene of carnage recorded among the bloodiest in 
 history. 
 
 While it is true also that it was an overpowering 
 genius which conceived the scaling of the Alps with a 
 great army under the most adverse circumstances, and 
 by deceptive manceuvers and the most careful prepara- 
 tions known in military history, unequalled in boldness of 
 design and perfection of execution, culminating in the 
 great victory of Marengo, yet without an army composed 
 of Frenchmen of bravery, endurance and deathlike devo- 
 tion to the human cause by them represented, victory 
 would not have perched upon the banners of the French 
 and Marengo placed amidst the most brilliant of Napo- 
 leon's triumphs. 
 
 20 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 Napoleonic Monuments. 
 
 HE foregoing observations, pertaining to the 
 former grandeur of the first French empire, 
 suggests the thought of the conspicuous and 
 strange absence of all monuments to mark 
 the mightiest battles ever fought. Who is it 
 that has never heard of Montennotte, Rivoli, 
 Castiglione, Areola, Bassano, Lodi and Mondovi, on 
 the great battle fields of which Napoleon with his French 
 cohorts in the first Italian campaign, drove to bay, the 
 Austrians under Beaulieu and Wurmser and annihiliated 
 the Sardinian army, co-operating with the Austrians? 
 And yet, no monument is found upon any of these fields, 
 excepting a dilapidated heap of stones on Rivoli over- 
 grown with weeds and a small head marker at the bridge 
 of Areola and Castiglione. From a military point of view, 
 these battles will go down in history two thousand four 
 hundred years hence, as have come to us the story of 
 Marathon and Thermopylae. This is due not only to the 
 originality of manceuvers, unequalled generalship of the 
 young Napoleon and the matchless endurance and devo- 
 tional courage of his army, contending against the most 
 fearful odds, but especially because it was the initial 
 struggle upon European soil to sever the bonds of monar- 
 chial slavery, the influence of which was to deal a deadly 
 blow, we hope, forever, upon this dread enemy of human 
 liberty. 
 
 Austerlitz, Wagram, Eylau, Friedland and Marengo 
 have already become classic in military and general his- 
 tory, the very names of which are synonymous with 
 French glory, and overwhelming defeat of powerful 
 enemies. 
 
 21 
 
The ones living on 
 the field of Aus- 
 terlitz, never heard 
 of battle. 
 
 Moreover, upon these sanguinary fields hundreds of thou- 
 sands of lives were sacrificed, and each one of these 
 struggle grounds during the progress of battle was under 
 a sea of blood, yet even now, although but one hundred 
 years have elapsed since their occurrence, still the peas- 
 ants who live upon farms where the thickest of the 
 fight occurred, do not know that such battles ever took 
 place. Upon the field of Austerlitz, which I visited with 
 a carriage, having travelled nearly twenty miles over 
 country to do so, I found no monument to mark the field 
 known as the "battle of the three emperors," the only 
 one of its kind in ancient or modern history. Not only 
 will this great event be immortalized by the bravery and 
 skill of the combatants, as well as the odds against which 
 the French had to contend, the Austrians and Rus- 
 sians combined, at no time has the world presented so 
 grand a spectacle as three great nations meeting in a 
 death grapple upon a common field of battle, two against 
 one, under the generalship and personal direction of their 
 respective sovereigns. So great was the issue involved 
 and fatal to the destiny of themselves, as well as all 
 Europe, that the ordinary method of warfare was not 
 pursued. The sovereigns did not trust their generals, 
 but commanded in person and marshalled every possible 
 resource upon that sanguinary field for victory. The only 
 way to identify the field of battle is by the official maps 
 on file in Paris, St. Petersburgh and Vienna. 
 
 There is a structure, an old windmill, where Napo- 
 leon's headquarters were, still in existence, weather beaten 
 and bowing with age, standing in the midst of a great 
 wheat field, a sketch of which is herewith produced. It was 
 here after a great battle that Emperor Francis, of Austria, 
 and Alexander, of Russia, implored the conqueror for 
 terms of peace. When they rode up in state, surrounded 
 
 22 
 
fc g 
 
 ed 
 
 a" 
 
 oj 
 01 
 
by their brilliant array of attendants and guards, Napo- 
 leon went worth from the little old structure and 
 addressed his defeated adversaries thus : "I am sorry 
 to receive you, your excellencies, in this, the only palace 
 I have inhabited for the last tzvo days," whereupon, said 
 Francis, "no matter, you have made good use of this 
 windmill palace during the time you have occupied it." 
 Speaking to the occupant of the farm, an intelligent Ger- 
 man, about the incident, he informed me that he had 
 lived there eleven years and had never heard of the battle 
 field of Austerlitz ! This illustrates forcibly the point of 
 observation now being made that it is a burning shame 
 that the nations of Europe should place no mark upon the 
 fields where legions of their countrymen fell in the cause 
 of their country, and to permit thousands of tons of their 
 bones to be crumbling to mother earth, without even 
 as much as a simple headstone to distinguish their rest- 
 ing places. The omission to do this is actuated by an 
 unholy pride of the defeated country. A monument, no 
 matter what its inscription by the enemy of the French, 
 would read in silent language : "Here is a Held of 
 French glory." That is the secret of this shameful neglect. 
 
 It has been my privilege to follow Napoleon's tracks 
 in person in his every campaign, commencing with the 
 Italian in 1797, and ending with the Belgian in 1815, on 
 this journey. 
 
 I have witnessed where the French assaulted Abukir, 
 also where the brave five thousand, at the foot of the 
 Pyramids, faced, repulsed and annihiliated sixty thou- 
 sand mamelukes, the bravest in history, excepting the 
 Cossacks of Russian fame. 
 
 I have witnessed their winding path from Cairo to 
 Jaffa in the Holy Lands, over the sandy deserts of 
 Egypt, and amid the rich plains of Palestine. I have 
 
 25 
 
Bridge of Areola. 
 Italy. 
 
 (Prom our original photograph.) 
 
also ridden over their line of march from Jaffa, through 
 the historic and Biblical plain of Sharon, up to the very 
 walls of Acre, famous in history, where a great siege 
 was conducted by the French against the Turks. From 
 there, eastward, I have gone over the mountains and 
 through the valleys, emerging upon the plain of 
 Esdraeleon, at the foot of Mt. Tabor, and there witnessed 
 the place which was the scene of the bloodiest strife in 
 the Syrian campaign, in which six thousand French 
 under Napoleon repelled an assault of forty thousand 
 Turks and Arabs and practically annihiliated them at 
 the very foot of the Mount of Transfiguration. I, too, 
 have been upon every battle field of the Austrian and 
 German campaigns of 1806, 1807 and 1809 and witnessed 
 as well the awful fields in which the campaign of 18 14 
 (winter and spring) took place, where Napoleon with 
 but a handful of men at Mont Marial, Mont Reau, Cham- 
 perbeaux, Vauchamps, Arcissuraub and Brienne, met, 
 whipped, scattered and sent back the armed hosts of all 
 Europe. Upon all these battle fields, which it has been 
 my privilege to visit with map and history in hand (which 
 in fact includes all that this mighty warrior fought except 
 Borodino), I have seen but three monuments, to wit: a 
 small marker at the bridge of Areola, a column at Mont 
 Marial and Champerbeaux erected by Emporor Napo- 
 leon, the Third, and a head-stone at Marengo and 
 Castiglione. 
 
 These monuments or markers are all so insignificant 
 as to be unnoticeable by a passerby, excepting those at 
 Mont Marial and Champerbeaux commemorating one and 
 the same battle. 
 
 At Eylau, the Germans in 1906, erected a small mon- 
 ument or stone, and upon it is the misleading inscription 
 which would indicate to a stranger that it is here where 
 Napoleon met defeat ; a most scandalous innuendo. This 
 
 Nothing but one 
 small monument and 
 two headstones mark 
 Napoleon's victories. 
 
 27 
 
Headquarters, Napoleon. 
 
 Montmirail. 
 (From our original photograph.) 
 
Headquarters, Napoleon. 
 
 Jena. 
 (From our original photograph.) 
 
Tree from which Napoleon directed the battle of Eylau. 
 
 Germany. 
 
 (From our original photograph.) 
 
seems to be in a secluded part of the field where, during 
 the progress of operations, there was a setback to one or 
 two regiments of the line, overpowered temporarily by 
 the overwhelming rush of the enemy. A lone tree to 
 the left, however, looking northward about two miles 
 distant, still standing, mostly branchless because of age, 
 is the traditional one in which Napoleon climbed and 
 viewed with serene eye, the awful struggle of the embat- 
 tled hosts and directed the manceuvers of his own divi- 
 sions, with such skill and which were executed with such 
 matchless bravery that the battle was won, and again the 
 Germans and Russians were sadly defeated. It is our 
 pleasure therefore to exhibit herewith that grand old his- 
 toric tree, from the summit of which the mightiest mili- 
 tary genius of all ages played with the brilliancy and 
 force of lightning on that momentous occasion, and struck 
 with as deadly a blow as that terrible element of nature 
 could, the powerful enemy against whom he was contend- 
 ing. Again, at the great field of Jena, where a battle was 
 fought enabling the French army to enter triumphantly 
 the walls of Berlin and to drive from their imperial pal- 
 aces their emperor and his court, there is nothing to 
 mark the field in the way of a monument whatever. There 
 is, however, a slight patch work of brick, across which 
 and near which is a wooden seat, near the upper extremity 
 of that awful gorge from the plain below to the plateau 
 above, where it is located, through which the almost im- 
 possible act of the French was performed by reaching 
 there in the night, to surprise the enemy in the morning. 
 This patch work, or seat, marks the place according to the 
 official maps, near or on which Napoleon stood and had 
 his headquarters during the battle. But few visitors 
 come to this place, and fewer still know on what part of 
 the vast surrounding country the field of operations was. 
 
 31 
 
When there, I met a fellow American of studious turn of 
 mind, who had come many miles in a carriage to view the 
 place. He in common with myself had been sent there by 
 the villagers in Jena, below, and told that somewhere 
 upon the great plains above was where the battle took 
 place. As my companion and myself sat upon this bench, 
 we could not help but reflect upon the awfulness of war, 
 and to think, that, though there may not be shafts of 
 granite or Waterloo mounds of dirt to give to coming 
 generations an account of the place, yet so long as human 
 history will be written and the German empire ranked 
 among the nations of the world, the most prominent fact 
 in all its story will be the one by which the French guns 
 and bayonets upon the bloody field of Jena drove their 
 emperor and court from their palaces and forced them 
 across the Neimen as refugees, fleeing to their Russian 
 protectors. 
 
 32 
 
Only marker at Castiglione. 
 
 Italy. 
 (From our original photograph.) 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Egypt. 
 
 E arrived in the land of the Pharaohs in the 
 midst of a winter month, but a summer 
 climate. The part which first met our 
 observation was the city of Alexandria, 
 founded by, and named after the great 
 genius, who, with Napoleon and Caesar, 
 have immortalized themselves for ages, as the trio of 
 military stars, whose unequaled brilliancy intensifies with 
 the march of time. As the blaze of glory, by which 
 ancient Egypt illuminated the whole world, licked forth 
 from its temples and pyramidal tombs, palaces and 
 thrones, and by which its life, history, art and power were 
 reflected, are not existent along the Mediterranean, but 
 found in the valley of the classic Nile, commencing at 
 Memphis and ending at Assuan, our sojourn at this inter- 
 esting city was only sufficiently long to acquaint ourselves 
 in a limited way, with the modern appearance, customs 
 and ways of the country, for which the city affords a 
 fair introduction. 
 
 The first type and suggestion of oriental life and cus- 
 toms which a traveler from the West, embarking upon 
 a direct route to Egypt gets, are presented to him at 
 Alexandria. Here the turban and sandal, different col- 
 ored shirts, wide breeches, cloaks or blankets, and flowing 
 robes of various colors, worn alike by peasant and Sheik, 
 together with their dark or brownish complexion, make a 
 scene, whose brilliancy and attractiveness are dependent 
 upon the cleanliness of the costume and the person of its 
 wearer. The dress of the European and American, or 
 
 Brilliant and pictur- 
 esque costumes of 
 the Orient. 
 
 35 
 
Mohammedan 
 women, forever 
 veiled from men, 
 in what look like 
 shrouds of death. 
 
 so-called inhabitants of the West, are never seen upon 
 the native population, and since the foreign sojourners 
 in this strange land are very few, scarcely any apparel 
 is seen anywhere except the turban or fez, and flowing 
 gown. 
 
 Here, too, is first seen the mysterious ghost-like 
 specter of the Mohammedan faith, the form of a woman 
 erect in stature always, over whose head is the black 
 robe or veil, flowing down and hung from the head and 
 covering the whole body, like a shroud of death, except 
 a slight opening of a few inches about the eyes. Even 
 this window is closed nearly tight, when that awful crea- 
 ture, man, good or bad, young or old, rich or poor, 
 angelic or demoniacal, passes near her holy presence ; 
 and, in order that she may be steered straight, in the 
 walks of life and not swerved, she is yoked with a spool 
 between her eyes, which rests on the bridge of her nose, 
 so that, if one eye sees evil, the other may not. Deluded 
 defenders of the prophet, consigned to eternal bondage, 
 too low and degraded, even to be seen outside their homes, 
 unless buried in a dark shroud, either too good or too 
 bad to frown upon, or speak to living man and against 
 whom the vengeance of the most high will be wrecked, 
 if seen in the public gaze. May the just God who created 
 them for life, liberty and happiness, free them by an 
 early death, and visit the strong judgment of retribution 
 upon those responsible for their fanatical slavery and 
 mournful wretchedness. 
 
 Here, too, in Alexandria, do we first see the mosques, 
 which everywhere in Egypt, attest the almost universal 
 worship of Mahomet. They are, here as elsewhere, large 
 and small, differing architecturally, except the central 
 dome, and spindel shaped minaret are ever present. To 
 the credit of their worshippers, it is observed that their 
 
 36 
 
wealth has not been exhausted in construction of the 
 places of worship as is too frequently the case in Chris- 
 tian countries. 
 
 In some respects their ceremony is most reverent and 
 religiously rational, as is said to be the Koran, their 
 monitor of life, the exposition of their faith and guide to 
 heaven. The rule of silent prayer and meditation when 
 within the portals of their sacred shrine, and cleanliness 
 and decorum of worship is illustrated by the universal 
 requisition that no one may enter the temple, however 
 humble or great, unless with specially prepared slippers 
 or overshoes, adjusted by the door attendant in order 
 that the same may not be defiled. 
 
 That all sect or creed dogmas or differences that may 
 prevail among the followers of the prophet in matters 
 of technical construction or practices are subordinated 
 to the central worship and adoration of but one God, is 
 emphasized by the fact, that under the central dome of 
 their temple all are allowed to kneel, and with uplifted 
 eyes, acknowledge his presence and proclaim his great- 
 ness, a privilege not too liberally bestowed or enjoyed by 
 the orthodox church of Him, who created the Christian 
 religion, but did not formulate its practiced worship. 
 
 The oriental custom of selling wares and manufac- 
 turing small articles of apparel and jewelry is also first 
 observed here in miles of its curious bazaars. They con- 
 sist chiefly of long, winding, narrow streets, or lanes, 
 averaging only from ten to fifteen feet wide, with small 
 stores or rather recesses, a few feet square, built in the 
 street, and where is carried on the sale and manufacture 
 of small articles of every conceivable kind, from shoes 
 to a watch chain. The density of population in these 
 narrow lanes of all sorts and ages and conditions, from 
 the wealthiest natives and tourists to the poorest, almost 
 
 No mosque temple 
 entered without 
 slippers or bare feet. 
 
 37 
 
cladless natives, with every kind of brilliant apparel, jum- 
 bled in with horses, camels, donkeys, dogs, hens, goats and 
 sheep, in places made riotous with the shouts of vendors 
 crying aloud their wares, and to an unaccustomed ear 
 seems angry confusion, and interests a stranger perhaps 
 more than any other aspect of Egyptian life. These 
 bazaars are found in all the principal towns and cities of 
 
 Egypt- 
 Egypt has been accredited as being the cradle of the 
 civilization of the world. One in America, or elsewhere, 
 not having visited the land of the Pharaohs is quite apt 
 to get an impression that it consists mostly of waste and 
 desert land, w r ith a few old mouldering temples and tombs, 
 with now and then an occasional tablet or inscription 
 which faintly voices the history of the past, but this 
 is all a mistake. No more fertile valley in the world 
 exists than that of the Nile, stretching from its delta 
 terminus, near Alexandria, and extending southward as 
 far as Assuan, the place of the first cataract. The Nile 
 is not, as sometimes supposed, a mud creek, but is a great 
 navigable stream, upon which for most of the distance 
 large steamers most of the year can ply. It varies in 
 width from one-half to three miles. Unlike any other 
 river, it has no tributaries flowing into it from mountain 
 sides or adjoining valleys. This great valley extends on 
 either side of the river, at least as far as Luxor, several 
 hundred miles south. This valley varies in width, extend- 
 ing on either side of the river from three to seven miles. 
 Skirting the valley are two great ranges of mountains, 
 which are treeless, being but great lime stone rocks and 
 running almost parallel with each other, north and south, 
 presenting to the eye, when seen from a steamer, a 
 very picturesque sight. Thus is seen, on either side, the 
 green, luxurious valley, and off in the distance, piercing 
 
 38 
 
the blue, cloudless skies, these great ranges of mountains, 
 which seem to run as regularly and continuously as the 
 river itself. There is much that interested us about the 
 great pyramids of Gizeh, near Cairo, one-half hour's 
 ride therefrom, and looming up in the distance a few miles 
 from the city, with a picturesqueness and grandeur seldom 
 witnessed anywhere. We thought, when contemplating 
 these vast structures, erected by human hands several 
 thousands of years B. C, upon geometrical lines as per- 
 fect as human genius could make them to-day, that there 
 we had found Egypt's greatest point of interest and its 
 most interesting monuments of antiquity. In fact, we 
 believe that the traveler generally is thus impressed, 
 when one has not penetrated farther into the interior 
 of this classic country. Many are therefore influenced 
 to go no further, and to be content with looking upon 
 the monument of Cheops, erected to immortalize himself, 
 and to view the Sphinx, partly buried beneath the hot 
 sands, with its broken nose and ears. They, too, are con- 
 tent with visiting at Sakkara, the tombs of the sacred 
 bulls, and old Memphis nearby, with the prostrate statue 
 of Rameses II of colossal size, lying under the shade of a 
 palm grove. 
 
 It is true that these of themselves are witnesses suffi- 
 cient to convince the mind of the glory of the first 
 dynasties. 
 
 CAIRO. 
 
 Of course, although Cairo is eight or nine hundred 
 years old, it is considered a modern city in Egypt, as 
 compared with many other places of modern growth. In 
 fact, it has no interest as a city of antiquities, but is fast 
 becoming the great social center for Europeans in winter. 
 Noticeable among the first, and greatest disappointments, 
 experienced by us in Cairo was the cold, disagreeable 
 
 The pyramids link 
 19th century to 
 remote antiquity. 
 
 39 
 
and frequent drizzles of rain, and this was in the month 
 of January. It is generally supposed, by information 
 derived from current literature on the subject, largely 
 disseminated by steamship, railroad and tourist compa- 
 nies, that Egypt in the winter has continuous porcelain 
 blue skies, cloudless, rainless, with a warm and balmy 
 atmosphere and a truly tropical climate. This reads well 
 on paper, but does not materialise to the visitor. Neither 
 can it be said that the season of 1908 was exceptional. 
 All the inhabitants with whom I talked united in the state- 
 ment that it has been invariably disagreeable in winter 
 for the last fifteen or twenty years. This is directly due 
 to the fact that the immense amount of irrigation by 
 artificial means, from the great dams at Assuan and 
 other places, has so greatly increased the surface area 
 of water and corresponding increase of vegetation, that 
 moisture in the atmosphere has of recent years greatly 
 increased. When a law of nature produces a plant, that 
 same law will preserve its life until full development, and 
 will therefore create the moisture which is necessary to 
 its sustenance. Again, although Cairo possesses many 
 magnificent hotels, they are utterly unprepared to make 
 comfortable their visitors during the cold spells, in the 
 matter of heat. There are only one or two that are 
 prepared for heating in the rooms, and fuel is so expen- 
 sive that even those are not able or at least do not make 
 comfortable their guests. Even so far down as Assuan, 
 several hundred miles south of Cairo, the mornings and 
 evenings are frequently cold, and although no rain in 
 that section is experienced, still there are spells of freez- 
 ing temperature, which chills one through, with no facil- 
 ities whatever for making warm and comfortable guests. 
 By this, I do not wish to create an impression that Egypt 
 does not possess a most charming atmosphere for winter 
 
 Irrigation has 
 changed climate cf 
 upper Egypt. 
 
 41 
 
In Cairo museum, 
 one looks back 
 6,000 years at Egyp- 
 tian arts and 
 sciences. 
 
 visitors. At least three quarters of the time in Cairo, 
 and perhaps in greater proportion as you go further up 
 the Nile, the one fact always to be reckoned with, how- 
 ever, is that there are frequent occasions to use winter 
 clothing and that one should be prepared for chilly, dis- 
 agreeable atmosphere. 
 
 The museum at Cairo is the first in all the world for 
 antiquities. In this great structure are to be found relics 
 commencing with the prehistoric period more than three 
 thousand years B. C. It is inexhaustible in its interest- 
 ing exhibition of things of the past. One finds himself 
 walking through the great corridors surrounded on every 
 hand by engraven tablets, painted masks, coffins and 
 articles of domestic furniture excavated from the tombs 
 of all ages, and feels that he is living in the past, several 
 thousand years ago. In fact, the museum is so varied, 
 inexhaustible and extensive that one, in looking upon the 
 ancient arts, sciences and material life exhibited here 
 may well imagine himself to be an Egyptian, six thou- 
 sand years old, standing upon the pinnacle of the present 
 age and going back with one grand vision over the vast 
 vista of past ages and seeing before him most of that 
 which was the pride and glory of his country in mat- 
 ters of art and science. 
 
 Proceeding now from Cairo and vicinity to Luxor, 
 passing by some interesting centers on the way with 
 which we do not wish to unduly burden our Egyptian 
 account, we arrive at Luxor, several hundred miles up 
 the Nile. This is the site of ancient Thebes, a city said 
 to contain more than 4,000,000 inhabitants, with a him 
 dred golden gates, often the subject of poetic song by the 
 classic poets of antiquity. This great city was divided 
 by the Nile,, as the Borough of Manhattan by the East 
 River is from Brooklyn. The site of Luxor is on the east 
 
 42 
 
bank. On this side of the river is to be found many of 
 the greatest temples, notably those of Luxor and Kar- 
 mak, and no tombs, while on the west side are the famous 
 royal tombs, besides many great temples. This is due to 
 the fact that the "Westminster" of Egypt or "Green- 
 wood" of Tliebes, was in the "Borough" (to use the 
 modern language of to-day), on the west side of the 
 river. Here it was that the Pharaoh of the Bondage, 
 as well as of the Exodus and others, lived in their palaces, 
 traces of which are yet seen, and wielded that scepter 
 of power that awed the whole world, and whose worldly 
 pomp and pagan grandeur were a hundred times flayed 
 by the scriptural pen of the prophets. 
 
 The first to charm us at Luxor are its temples. No 
 minute description will be attempted. The two great ones 
 are those of Karnak and Luxor. The former covers 
 an area of more than twenty acres, and that of Luxor 
 more than ten. So well have they been preserved by the 
 heaps of dirt under which they have been buried for 
 thirty centuries or more that the engraven inscriptions 
 and symbols upon their massive columns and solid 
 masonry appear as sharp and readable as though im- 
 printed but yesterday. The thought that occurs to all 
 is how it came to happen, that these temples slept so 
 silently and for so long and have only come to light so 
 recently, and mostly within the last fifty years. Especially 
 does this seem marvellous in view of an unbroken con- 
 tinuity of human government and civilization existing 
 here since their original construction. More strange 
 yet does it seem when we learn, even from Herodotus, 
 that so far back as four and five hundred years B. C, 
 that this spot was visited by European travelers, who 
 journeyed here to view the wondrous relics then standing 
 of antiquity, these very obelisks, the colossi of Thebes 
 
 43 
 
and the various temples. This is verified by occasional 
 inscriptions in Greek and Latin, made several hundred 
 years B. C, found upon the great stones. The explan- 
 ation is this: After the decline of the New Empire (1324 
 B. C), the invasion of foreigners became constant and 
 increasingly powerful, while the worship in the temples 
 gradually lessened, until finally it became abandoned, and 
 their repair and preservation neglected. They were use- 
 less for any other purpose, and since stone of which they 
 were constructed, could not be utilized for anything else, 
 they were allowed to remain. The Nile Valley, at all 
 times being subject to sand storms blowing off from 
 the desert spots, in all directions, here and there exposed 
 at short distances away, the massive masonry of their 
 walls and columns at an early day caught the sand as a 
 prairie shed would drifting snow, and banked it up. 
 Unlike snow, however, it was indestructible, and, instead 
 of melting, would harden by the overflowing Nile from 
 time to time. No one cared to undertake the job (as 
 would be expected in so poor a country) of clearing the 
 sand and mud away. It necessarily soon became of such 
 immensity and solidity that even modern enterprise and 
 means have hesitated long at the enormous expense 
 involved in clearing the rubbish away, much of which to 
 this day remains. In the absence of any other explan- 
 ation made or attempted by anyone, so far as my 
 researches go, I offer this as a reasonable one, at least. 
 Many were the pleasant days we spent in company with 
 two cultured English ladies, mother and daughter, who, 
 with us indulged in many dreamy reveries of the great 
 past as we studied together these leviathan monsters of 
 antiquity for weeks, so great was the hold which their 
 charm of mysterious history had upon our imagination. 
 When standing upon the east bank of the Nile, and 
 
 44 
 
looking west from Luxor, we see before us the old site 
 of Thebes, once the mightiest city of the world, now noth- 
 ing but a beautiful plain. A glance further north, out 
 upon the old historic ground, the crumbled pile of rock 
 and stone which at a distance seems like a small moun- 
 tain spur, with its long lines of walls, is the Rameseum, 
 erected by the proudest of the Pharaohs, Rameses II, 
 to serve as the greatest memorial of his fame and glory. 
 Between these two structures and some distance there- 
 from, rise up two great collossi from the green valley, 
 whiqh, viewed in the morning from a point far away, 
 seem like massive Gods in granite, sitting at ease upon 
 the velvet lawn of a beautiful garden, communing in 
 silence with the rising sun, invoking the favor of that 
 great orb. Still further north are seen the collonades, 
 capped with papyrus buds, which adorn the front of the 
 ancient temple of Sethos I, founded in honor of Ammon, 
 which, with its sharply defined walls, and hoary parts 
 crumbling into mere relics here and there, seems like 
 a grim old visage standing alone, battling with the ele- 
 ments of time, which, though the struggle has lasted 
 over three thousand years, and it has bravely and marvel- 
 ously combatted its foe, its final conquest, before long, 
 is becoming painfully apparent. 
 
 Turning from this and looking west, we see at the 
 very base of the Libyan mountain, and resting against 
 its precipitous side, the temple of Der El Bahri, which, 
 with its long line of columns in front and at the sides 
 of its terraces at its entrance, if approached from a lower 
 level below, is a suggestion of a modern capitol edifice, 
 with its red sandstone glittering in the light of the morn- 
 ing sun, and built by Queen Hatshepsowet three thou- 
 sand four hundred years ago, as a monument to her glory 
 while ruling as Regent for her brother Thutmosis III. 
 
 Thebes, once inhab- 
 ited by 4,000,000, 
 now a beautiful 
 plain. 
 
 45 
 
There are to be seen the lesser temples, and in the 
 mountain side innumerable caves like swallow holes in 
 a sand bank, where princes of the royal families, and 
 high priests of Thebes were buried, affirming the pres- 
 ence of a great necropolis here, whose mummies and 
 royal robes of death at Cairo tell their history; to say 
 nothing of the great tombs of the illustrious kings and 
 queens, found in the valley of the Libyan range out of 
 sight from the Nile, and but a short distance therefrom. 
 
 Having now taken a distant view of the picture de- 
 scribed, which lies before you from the east bank of the 
 Nile at Luxor like a panoramic scene, we proceed across 
 the plain and inspect more closely the details, and what 
 then do we find? 
 
 We discover so much of indisputable history, beautiful 
 architecture, painting, sculpturing, buildings, mysterious 
 mechanical productions, so many pagan Gods, illustrations 
 of domestic life, warfare, victories, territorial conquests, 
 religious worship, so many offerings, gloomy conceptions 
 of death, so much of art in the manufacture of jewelry 
 and utensils, wondrous skill in the mummification of the 
 human body, so much self glorification as well as the 
 glorification of animals, all depicted upon and as strongly 
 engraven in stone in every temple and tomb, as though* 
 executed but yesterday, that we do not know where to 
 begin to tell the story, or where to end the tale. 
 
 These temples, which have slept silently for about 
 twenty centuries beneath the sand, heaped up by the 
 winds of the Lybian Desert, and these tombs secretly 
 built and filled in to evade the robbers' spoil for all time, 
 when the mortal remains of their imperial occupants en- 
 tered their portals for final rest, with their translatable 
 inscriptions engraven deeply in stone and granite and 
 sculpturing and paintings, together form a book of his- 
 
 46 
 
S- c 
 
 o » 
 
 M _ 
 
 3 2 
 
 D* ts E'- 
 er- o o 
 
 S H 
 
 * 2. 
 
tory, absolutely incontestable and irrefutable, of contem- 
 poraneous life, as well as prehistoric events. The thought 
 of their unquestioned authenticity and knowledge of their 
 undebatable character, impossible of impeachment or con- 
 tradiction, should be uppermost in the modern mind, to 
 disabuse it of a very natural skepticism, concerning the 
 accuracy of any history, involving in the dim vistage 
 events preceding the birth of Christ, two thousand or 
 more years. The thought that we see the same sun 
 and moon and stars, and the same old river and moun- 
 tains that are here now as did the sons of Ham or any- 
 one else who first inhabited this land, no matter whether 
 four thousand or ten thousand years ago, it is easy to 
 credit, and universally is assumed, without the slightest 
 tinge of incredulity. But, one accustomed to learn ancient 
 history from books or writings or legends with their 
 destructible and fragile character, the most ancient of 
 which at most, being copies or translations of unauthen- 
 ticated originals or more generally based on popular 
 tradition which necessarily lacks testimonial force has, 
 by habit, become incredulous and creates some in- 
 difference to ancient history as lacking the interest of 
 truthful portrayal. It may be true, that, in the Vatican, 
 and among the Archives of some of the older nations 
 of civilization, can be found original historic information 
 of contemporaneous events occurring a few years before 
 Christ, but they are so limited in scope or comparatively 
 modern in inscription, or inaccessable to the world and 
 few in number, that they do not convince, or furnish a 
 real or original picture of antiquity. Hence we have 
 grown to look upon the far distant past (that is, preced- 
 ing the Roman empire, or when Europe was uncivilized) 
 as a matter of such uncertainty that its events, like its 
 lost arts, can not be determined, and are buried so deeply 
 
 49 
 
mmmmmi ^ 
 
 S\ HMV'-.---:7 | -.^-hTfH / 
 
in the sea of oblivion that there is no hope of light being 
 thrown upon them. 
 
 Not so here. The temples, pyramidal and rock tombs 
 of Egypt, everywhere are opening to the whole 
 world their books of contemporaneous history over a 
 range of one thousand to four thousand years before 
 Christ, unfolded by the spade and read by the light of 
 the Rosetta stone and other means so simple, that the 
 language of the hieroglyphics has become a modernized 
 tongue. 
 
 Interest deepens in the revelations of the past, which 
 these recently unearthed monuments of former antiquity 
 present, as the prodigous volume of history, engraven 
 and painted thereon, becomes apparent. The quantity 
 and multiplicity of the inscriptions are so amazingly 
 great that the extent thereof only gradually becomes 
 fully appreciated as one carefully surveys the field and 
 studies closely the details. At the outset, it is a grave 
 mistake to suppose that we find only a few old ruins 
 that are dumb and mute, like those of Rome or Athens, 
 speaking no language, voicing to us no history in words 
 and signs. We must realize in order to excite our deep- 
 est interest, the fact that, instead of having before us 
 only a few crumbling monuments of its past, of inferior 
 dimensions, we have many of them, not less than two 
 hundred and fifty minutely described by the guide books, 
 and most of which are of great size, and many in a 
 marvelous state of preservation, and all blazing with 
 hieroglyphic light, proclaiming in relief, engraving or 
 painting, the life and sentiment of a great people, which 
 though largely pagan, nevertheless human and real. 
 
 Take for instance the great temple at Luxor; by 
 actual measurement made by myself and of the hiero- 
 glyphics upon its walls, ceiling and colonnades, I found 
 
 By Rosetta stone, 
 hieroglyphics have 
 become a modern- 
 ized tongue. 
 
 51 
 
it would require a ribbon two feet in width about nine- 
 teen miles and one-half long, upon which to reproduce 
 the hieroglyphics alone in this one great temple. This 
 result was arrived at by approximating a fair average, 
 allowing for some figure hieroglyphics, several feet in 
 height and dimensions, while in others, six to eight 
 inches. Now when it was considered that there are at 
 least a dozen great temples and tombs in which solid 
 hieroglyphic inscriptions are engraved and written, we 
 can at this day even read in its temples and tombs alone 
 hundreds of miles of hieroglyphics of important events 
 occuring many thousands of years ago in the social, 
 political, military, commercial, artistic and religious life 
 of the nation. These tombs and temples referred to are 
 iban Mulik. West- on the site of the ancient city of Thebes, once containing a 
 inster of Thebes. population said to be over four millions, and now nothing 
 but a vast farming plain, upon which the mud hut of the 
 Arab (and few of them), together with these old tem- 
 ples, mark the place where it formerly stood. To me, 
 even more interesting than the temples, with all their 
 acres of area, which they now cover, are the rock tombs 
 of the Pharaohs in Biban Mulik, the old necropolis 
 and real "Westminster" of Thebes. Take for instance 
 the tomb of Amenothese II, erected about one thousand 
 five hundred years B. C, and what do we find in it as 
 typical of many others in the immediate vicinity? This 
 is it : After winding our way over the great plain 
 of Thebes, around through the narrow pass in the 
 Lybian range of mountains for three or four miles, 
 we come to a short valley not over one thousand feet 
 in width and one-half mile in length upon all sides of 
 which, excepting the one through which we enter, great 
 lime-stone mountains, treeless, herbless, piercing the blue 
 vault of heaven as you look upward. There is no place 
 
 52 
 
on earth where the sky appears bluer than at this very 
 spot, in contrast with the lime-stone mountains and preci- 
 pices that tower above your head. In fact, it is the 
 remark of everyone that the sky can be hardly said to 
 be blue because of its intensity of color, but more resem- 
 bles black. Passing on, we find bored into the base of 
 the mountain a great tunnel, ten or twelve feet in diam- 
 eter, with steps in regular proportion, extending about 
 45 degrees right angle for several hundred feet in a tor- 
 tious way in solid rock, until you finally come to two 
 chambers. The first of these chambers is about thirty 
 feet square with a ceiling about fifteen feet in height. 
 Immediately adjoining this chamber and having the same 
 roof is another room of a so-called crypt, the floor of 
 which is several feet lower than the first chamber. In this 
 crypt we find a beautiful rose-colored sarcophagus 
 weighing many tons, polished like a piano, with such 
 brilliancy that you could nearly see your face in it. The 
 dados and friezes of the chambers are painted beauti- 
 fully, the friezes with the Lotus flower of Egypt (which, 
 with the Pharaohs as a species, has long since passed from 
 earthly existence), containing, as they do, varigated col- 
 ors, the ceiling being painted with a beautiful blue sky 
 color, and dotted with golden stars in yellow. Upon the 
 walls and pillars are painted in bright colors gods of the 
 entombed Pharaohs. Besides, there are several "books 
 of the dead" written in hieroglyphics with a steady hand, 
 against a yellow, cream background, the symbols and 
 figures of which stand forth as clearly as though written 
 but yesterday, telling of the religious belief of the Pagan 
 monarch and the doctrines of eternity upon which his 
 soul depended for peace and joy. In the sarcophagus is 
 found the Pharaoh himself, wrapped in his royal band- 
 ages, with feet, hands and head exposed, lying precisely 
 
 Tomb of 
 Amenothese II, 
 most beautiful. 
 
 53 
 
v .: ^_ 
 
 
 
 
 A Pharao mummy in his tomb. 
 Egypt. 
 (Original drawing by M'Allister.) 
 
as he was put there by the high priests of Ammon three 
 thousand three hundred and twenty-eight years ago. So 
 well preserved is his body that his features are perfect, 
 his teeth, slightly protruding, showing that the art of 
 dentistry was practiced upon him. Locks of his hair are 
 there. His hands are almost of the normal size, with 
 finger nails well manicured, upon the tips of which is 
 found the brownish liquid which even to this day orna- 
 ments the nails of Egyptians. In truth, as he lies there, 
 he looks like a corpse, beneath the electric light, which is 
 hung from the ceiling above in such a manner as to 
 throw a sombre hue upon his face, imparting a wonder- 
 fully natural appearance. 
 
 There is hardly a scratch anywhere to be seen on 
 walls or ceilings. The bright electric lights illuminate 
 the chamber and bring out the original colors with much 
 beauty. Nothing is needed to give it the elegance of a Body of the dead 
 modern royal mausoleum. The Pharaoh who preceded 
 Meneptah of the exodus by two hundred years, lies in mnr ^ 
 state to-day, with a finer tomb than many European 
 monarchs, buried in the last century. People of all nations 
 pass by in reverent mood his bier, in one continuous pro- 
 cession, and pay their respects to the dead. They lean 
 forth with curious glance and look down upon that face 
 with the same sense of nearness as though he died but 
 yesterday. Strange, this turn in the fame of Amenothese ! 
 He was buried 3,400 years ago, and was dead more than 
 500 years before Moses wrote Exodus, 1,400 years before 
 Christ and centuries before Europe was civilized. Now 
 in the glare of the nineteenth century civilization, his 
 tomb is unlocked and the world invited to come and view 
 his remains, lying in state, carefully preserved and ten- 
 derly guarded. The world has accepted the invitation, 
 and by the numerous processions which daily wind their 
 
 55 
 
 world. 
 
way from all countries on earth, he is having the greatest 
 funeral with which human monarch was ever honored. 
 
 The doctrine of the "book of the dead," extracts from 
 which are written above his sarcophagus, proclaiming 
 the return of life after death, strong in the faith of which 
 he died, seems almost exemplified by this recent part, 
 which his hoary locks and physical being are playing in 
 human affairs of to-day. If at least his soul has not 
 returned, his body has. 
 
 Curious enough, when ten years ago this tomb was 
 found by Loret, under the auspices of the French gov- 
 ernment, there were found in a side chamber or recess, 
 nine other royal mummies, most of whom were well pre- 
 served and absolutely identified by their royal robes in 
 which they were wrapped and cartouches upon their 
 coffins. These now lie in the National Museum at Cairo, 
 among which is that of Meneptah, the Pharaoh of Exo- 
 dus. Until this great discovery, Biblical scholars for ages 
 have contended that that wicked sovereign went down 
 with his host in the Red Sea as a special visitation of 
 God for his sins. Moses, in his description of the event, 
 used language susceptible of double construction, and 
 that interpretation was generally adopted by Biblical 
 scholars most favorable to the real punishment he de- 
 served. Now, however, the cloud of mysticism has been 
 cleared away, and at last, it was left to our immediate 
 day and generation to rescue his mortal remains from 
 the eternal oblivion in which they have slept from all 
 the world for more than thirty centuries. 
 
 The one most responsible perhaps for these great 
 discoveries is one Ab Rassoul, an Arab mountaineer, 
 living in an impoverished manner in one of the many 
 rock caves on the site of old Thebes. Some years ago, 
 and before the discovery of these most important sepul- 
 
 56 
 
chers, visitors at Luxor were occasionally approached to 
 buy what was claimed and finally proven to be, genuine 
 Scarabs, papyrus, jewelry and funerary articles. Sus- 
 picion being aroused, the government caused the arrest 
 of the brothers Rassoul. Although imprisoned for two 
 months, and subjected to the most searching investiga- 
 tion, no satisfactory evidence was found, and they were 
 set at liberty. Quarreling among themselves over spoils 
 of their "find," the brother of "Ab," to square himself, 
 advised the government, that, if assured of a house and 
 two hundred and fifty dollars a year, he would disclose 
 information leading to the discovery of one or more 
 royal tombs. The proposition was accepted, with the 
 result, that a sepulcher was found, containing several 
 Pharaohs and more than six carloads of valuable fune- 
 rary articles, all now at Cairo Museum. 
 
 "Ab." Rassoul gave "points," however, to all the 
 scientific and highly-paid experts of the world, who, 
 for half a century had been trying to find these tombs 
 in behalf of their respective governments. They taught 
 them that all the great debris and immense heaps of 
 disintegrated rock, lying at the foot of the precipitous 
 cliffs of the Lybian range was not done by nature. That, 
 occasionally here and there were to be found small par- 
 ticles of chips, precisely resembling those of disinteg- 
 rated rock, but, that on close inspection, the slightest 
 mark of a cutting instrument could be seen. When 
 this was found, a clue was given that nearby an exca- 
 vation in ancient time had been made, and although it 
 might necessitate the removal of great quantities of rock 
 to find the initial entrance, it was sure to follow sooner 
 or later. Acting on this clue, the French government 
 in 1898 found the sepulcher of Amenothese II, which 
 
 Old Rassoul gave 
 points to the 
 world's experts. 
 
 57 
 
"Ab" Rassoul, discoverer Royal tombs. 
 
 Egypt. 
 
 (From original photograph.) 
 
was opened with that pomp of official ceremony which 
 the Egyptian law commands. 
 
 Learning that Rassoul still lived, an old man above 
 eighty years, across the river, I sent for him to come to 
 our hotel at Luxor and tell us with his own lips the 
 great story which has made him already famous in his- 
 tory. The above is as we got it from him, and curiously 
 enough, it verifies Maspero's account in the official guide 
 of the National Museum. We had him photographed, 
 as though he was being prepared for the Rogues Gal- 
 lery, and compensating him suitably for his trouble, 
 bade him adieu. 
 
 We introduce him here as the star actor on the stage 
 of modern Theban life, it being his first appearance, and 
 though the curtain will soon ring down and he will be 
 no more, yet his fame is surely linked to that of the 
 Pharaohs for all time to come This is the first 
 
 There is so much to say about Luxor that the subject appearance of Ras- 
 becomes almost inexhaustible. We must, however, now soul in public, 
 leave the dead, tell a story of the living, and pass on to 
 another country. 
 
 When riding along one day with my family, a bright 
 young Arab, about ten years old, jumped up on the step 
 of the Victoria and said in good English, "Do you want 
 a guide, sir?" This coming from so small a lad with 
 such directness in a country where the natives all speak 
 Arab, astounded us all. Besides, his rich gown and fez 
 were attractive and most picturesque. He greatly inter- 
 ested us, and I said, "Yes, we would take him if he could 
 give good 'reference,' " whereupon he handed me a card 
 and said that was his reference. The card read, "Rich- 
 ard Croker." Questioning the boy, I found it was the 
 Ex-Tammany Chief. Having good reference, of course, 
 he was given at least some employment. A few days 
 
 59 
 
little Hassan. 
 
 after, at Assuan, I met Mr. Croker and related the above 
 experience. "Why," said he, "Hassan is the brightest 
 boy I ever saw. You saw his nice gown and hat, did 
 you not?" he asked; and I said, "Yes, I noticed it was 
 very beautiful." "Well," he said, "I bought them for 
 him because I thought he deserved them. My friend and 
 self had him a day or two around with us. My friend 
 would occasionally take a glass of American whiskey, 
 although I did not. Just about as we were finally part- 
 ing, my friend asked Hassan if he would like to go back 
 to New York with him, and if he did, he would take 
 him. Hassan hesitated and took me to one side and 
 said, 'Mr. Croker, I will go with you, if you want me, 
 not with your friend.' I said to him he was a good 
 man and asked him why he did not care to go with 
 him He said to me, 'Mr. Croker, he drinks too much 
 whiskey to suit me.' Well, I nearly collapsed, and that 
 very night looked up the Sheik of the town, found his 
 record, and rewarded him with the best suit I could 
 buy, and that is the suit he had on." 
 
 60 
 
Lands. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Palestine and Syria. 
 
 ^x^E now follow the tracks of the Israelites and 
 leave the land of the Pharaohs for Pales- 
 tine. We did not, however, cross the Red 
 Sea, but in a more commodious and safer 
 way, by steamer, from Port Said to Joppa. 
 When approaching the historic and sacred 
 
 shores of Palestine at Joppa, as we did on a bright 
 
 April morning, there was an indescribable feeling of 
 
 awe and pensive reverie caused by the consciousness that 
 
 we were about to touch the soil which has been the 
 
 religious center of all the world, the guide book to which Bible was our guide 
 
 is the Old and the New Testament. To look upon the 
 
 mountains in the far distance and the beautiful plains 
 
 spreading out before us like a rich green velvet carpet, 
 
 fringed with orange groves, the blossoms from which 
 
 perfumed the air, distinctly discernible from the deck 
 
 of the steamer, present a sight never to be forgotten as 
 
 one of intensest interest and historical importance. 
 
 We were at last now looking upon the land positively 
 
 identified as the home of Abraham, Joseph, Jacob and 
 
 all the prophets in the long line of succession. We were 
 
 sure that the mountains in the far distance and the val- 
 leys dimly to be seen, were those upon which the eyes 
 
 of Christ rested, and was the theatre of his religious and 
 
 spiritual activity when on earth. Great thoughts these, 
 
 on the threshold of the Holy Land which enter the mind 
 
 of him who in boyhood days has been taught to reverence 
 
 and love the Christ and to read and study his history and 
 
 the teachings of those older prophets of the Bible. When 
 
 61 
 
Hotel rooms not 
 numbered, but 
 named after 
 Prophets. 
 
 Rome is first presented to the eye it enthuses one with 
 its charm of ancient associations and relics of past glory 
 familiar to every reader. But when one looks for the first 
 upon the Holy Land there is altogether a different feel- 
 ing which overtakes him. He is now conscious that he 
 is approaching closely a thousand sacred places, immor- 
 talized by Biblical history and scenes of all the 
 great prophets and actors upon the stage of religious 
 life, about which for more than fifteen centuries hun- 
 dreds of thousands of pulpits throughout the Christian 
 civilization have preached daily to millions of human 
 souls. That we were entering into an atmosphere of 
 religious history was apparent when we first landed at 
 Joppa. The hotel at which we stopped, being the first 
 of the city, elegant and comfortable, had no numbers 
 upon its rooms, but each room was designated by the 
 name of an apostle or prophet; instead of No. i, there 
 was Jeremiah ; No. 2, was Abraham, and so on through- 
 out the whole list. Even when the bills at the hotel were 
 settled, it seems that the credit of the old apostles and 
 prophets was so unimpeachable that they were made out 
 in their names rather than the guests, thus : Mr. Gard- 
 ner-Abraham, indebted, so and so. This seemed to be 
 a sort of compliment to the guests, for in my case it 
 was the first that my name had been linked in a business 
 sense with that grand, old patriarch of antiquity. 
 
 It seemed, too, at Joppa, that the charge for carriage 
 hire and hotel bills were strictly in accordance with the 
 Christian idea of live and let live. Although this prin- 
 ciple may not have been universally applied throughout 
 all the Holy Land (I witnessed one or two prominent 
 exceptions), still, as a rule, charges are consistently har- 
 monious with the doctrine of fairness in human dealings, 
 so prominently advocated by the Gospel. 
 
 62 
 
It is with much reluctance that we pass by these 
 beautiful orange groves without description, and leave 
 untouched here the old residence of Simon Peter, the 
 tanner, with its gabled roof, bowed down with the bur- 
 den of twenty centuries upon its back, to go on over the 
 beautiful plain of Sharon, to reach the Mecca, to which 
 all Christians go, high up on the mountain top of Zion 
 and Mount Moriah, the Jerusalem of to-day. This city, 
 to me, was a surprise in more than one respect, situated 
 as it is, high up, upon a great mountain (not hill), the 
 summit of which is entirely occupied by the sacred city. 
 Lower down upon its western, northern and southern 
 base there are beautiful plains, rich and fertile as the 
 sun shines upon, yet covering an acreage upon the moun- 
 tain itself, perhaps of not less than ten thousand acres. 
 I should say that Jerusalem is situated upon nothing 
 more or less than a barren rock, treeless, herbless and 
 almost grassless, except now and then gardens, the pro- 
 duct of artificial cultivation. This is in strange con- 
 trast with many other cities in the Holy Land. Of this 
 fact I had not before learned with sufficient clearness. 
 Another surprise was, that instead of finding an old run- 
 down and dilapidated city of antiquity, as its name and 
 history would seem to imply, the major part of Jerusalem 
 consists of modern streets, dwelling and buildings, which 
 will classify it among up-to-date cities in many respects. 
 Many great hospitals, hospices and denominational and 
 ecclesiastical institutions, many of which tower up and 
 impress one as to size, like many of our great apartment 
 houses in New York, are to be seen everywhere. 
 
 Of course, the business carried on in these great 
 structures is not that of manufacturing or of commerce, 
 but caring for the sick and the dependent, of the various 
 denominations to which they belong. The site of Solo- 
 
 63 
 
mon's temple with its great court is there. The Church 
 of the Holy Sepulchre, the old Roman wall with its 
 ancient gates still exists. The palace where Pilate sat 
 in judgment upon the Saviour is pointed out with more 
 or less certainty, while the crooked street leading from 
 St. Stephen's gate pass the prison where Christ was im- 
 prisoned (Dolorosa), and over which he was led to the 
 cross, is there with the several stations, it is said, where 
 He fell under the weight of his cruel burden ; and right 
 here occurs one of those curious contradictions of the 
 apostolic account of Christ with which we so frequently 
 meet. It is generally supposed and always preached 
 
 that He bore the cross on the way to his crucifixion. 
 Christ did not bear ,_,,. ,, ,. . . . ., „ . , 
 
 .. Ihis was the street over which it is said He carried, 
 
 tne cross. 
 
 and staggered under it. Hymnals and poems from time 
 immemorial have sung in plaintive mood of this crush- 
 ing humiliation of the Son of God. With testament in 
 hand as our best guide, I found in Matthew, Chapter 27 
 in verses 31-32, the following: "And after they had 
 mocked Him they took the robe from Him, and put His 
 own rainment on Him, and led Him away to crucify 
 Him ; and as they came out, they found a man of 
 Cyrene, Simon by name ; him they compelled to bear His 
 cross." Now, as Matthew was a witness to the transac- 
 tion, I came to the conclusion that he knew as much, at 
 least, about the matter as our guide, and as human 
 writers who composed their recitals centuries after the 
 act. 
 
 In the old Jewish quarters of the city one finds per- 
 haps the most interesting sights which are calculated 
 to excite human sympathy, equal, if not surpassing the 
 compassionate emotion with which the recital of the 
 Lord's last experience in the city stirs one's being. For 
 almost miles are to be seen in long and narrow streets 
 
 64 
 
covered over mostly with canvas, old and young Jews. 
 They have curious garbs, and most picturesque physical 
 appearances. Their hair is worn in ringlets over their 
 ears. Their caps are generally fur, and their long, black, 
 blue and crimson colored gowns combine to give them 
 an air of social exclusiveness and oddity of manner, truly 
 suggestive of the patriarchial period of Abraham, and 
 from Nhomar, his contemporaries they are in fact the 
 direct descendants. It is because of their commendable 
 pride in the blood of their distinguished ancestry, and 
 their unbroken continuity of faith, taught by their ancient 
 fathers in the one true God that they prefer to manifest, 
 by the strangeness of their lives and isolation from the 
 whirl of modern civilization that they still are the worthy 
 sons of an honored race. It is true that empires and king- 
 doms have come and gone, and in turn occupied and 
 oppressed their native land ; that all the nations of an- 
 tiquity, including Syria, Egypt, Persia, Greece, Rome 
 and Macedonia have battled over their possessions, and 
 at one time or the other, have each wielded their grind- 
 ing scepter over these faithful followers of Abraham, 
 and yet they still live on, a contented, loyal and peace 
 loving race, with a faith as impregnable as the rock of 
 Zion on which they live. 
 
 The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, is, of course, 
 visited by all with a curiosity that is universal with 
 every sect and believers or non-believers. It contains 
 the so-called tomb of the resurrection and the rock of 
 Calvary. These are shown to all without restriction. 
 
 We were at the portals of the tomb on last Palm 
 Sunday, and witnessed the celebration of that event 
 at the very spot of its occurrence. And what a scene! 
 From daylight there began to swarm in the church many 
 thousands from all lands, and by eight A. M., the crowd 
 
 65 
 
Calvary nearly mile 
 away from the holy 
 sepulcher. 
 
 was so dense in the hundred and one recesses, chapels, 
 corridors and galleries, that it seemed as if 25,000 souls 
 were crowded in a space intended for but 5,000. 
 
 The spectacle of one hundred great greasy Turkish 
 soldiers, with guns in hand, lined up to keep order, and 
 the sight of the fanatical hosts as far as from the plains 
 of Russia on the north, to the mountains of Abysinia on 
 the south, to say nothing of the Copts of Egypt, the 
 Greeks of Asia Minor, Armenians, and other sects bat- 
 tling with each other to gain entrance within the holy 
 precinct, is never to be forgotten It in fact seemed a 
 desecration rather than worship. The Russian orthodox 
 fanatic who had walked most of the way here in an 
 army of ten thousand, was willing to fight and die for 
 the faith within him, while the Armenian enthusiasts, 
 Catholics, Copts and other sects were equally furious in 
 their protestations of devotion. 
 
 Here, again, we came to another doubtful fork in the 
 road of Biblical authenticity of which there are so many 
 in this ancient theater of dramatic life. 
 
 We open again the New Testament for our guide 
 to steer us on the right road, for we hear, that even this 
 was not the place of crucifixion, nor even the tomb. 
 Turning to the 15th Chapter of Mark and verses 22, 
 23 and 24, we read (22) : "And they bring Him unto 
 the place, Golgotha, which is, being interpreted, the 
 place of the skull, (23) And they gave Him to drink, 
 wine, mingled with myrrh; but He received it not. (24) 
 And when they had crucified Him, they parted His 
 garments, etc." 
 
 Now the place, according to this eye witness of the 
 transaction (and Mark is entitled to credit), was 
 "Golgotha," the place of a skull. The place or hill of 
 the "skull" is nearly a mile from the Church of the Holy 
 
 66 
 
Sepulchre, and stands a quarter of a mile outside of the 
 walls. It bears resemblance to a man's skull, by rea- 
 son of the great smooth rock, looking like the top of a 
 bald man's head, while there are pronounced projections 
 below, that show a man's forehead and the side of a 
 head. It is an old historic place, whose ancient name 
 has been as well preserved in profane history as Moriah 
 or Zion, within the city limits. 
 
 In fact, some of the other apostles verified Mark's 
 statement and none denied it. This evidence is original, 
 and not hearsay in a judicial sense. It would be accepted 
 by a Court as of a most convincing character. Besides, 
 Christ was a Roman subject, a citizen of Nazareth. 
 Imperial authority in those days enforced the law of per- 
 sonal rights as strongly as England does to-day, and 
 stronger than the United States (for here lynch law is 
 of occasional occurrence, and never was in Rome or 
 England). 
 
 It was a law of the country at the time that a pris- 
 oner to be executed should be so placed that, before 
 the final act, he could raise his right hand to signal the 
 judge, sitting in the Temple, to stay temporarily the 
 taking of his life. Being so, the rock in the Holy 
 Sepulchre or a man standing on the same, could not be 
 possibly seen from the temple because of the variety of 
 ancient obstructions, not the least among which was the 
 unfavorable configuration of the intervening space. On 
 the other hand, prisoners executed on "Golgotha" could 
 then and now be easily seen from the judgment hall 
 in the temple court, a fact which makes the place as 
 the one most easy with which to conform to the Roman 
 law in the execution of the condemned. 
 
 The tomb known as "Gordons," found near the base 
 of "Golgotha," is also supposed to have been the one 
 
 67 
 
where the "honorable counsellor," Joseph, of Arimathaea, 
 buried him, and rolled against the door thereof a stone, 
 Mark, Chapter 16-43. This tomb was excavated a few 
 years ago, and found to possess all the physical char- 
 acteristics described as the one from which Christ resur- 
 rected. 
 
 We do not wish to burden this brief narrative with 
 too much reference to odd things seen in Jerusalem. 
 There are innumerable subjects of interest which could 
 
 _ . , . ,. be spoken of, but some space must be left for other parts. 
 
 Jericho, smitten relic * . , , , .,,. T ,,, 
 
 of antiquity Jericho must have a place in the list, it would be 
 
 unpardonable to slight this old war-worn, earthquake- 
 smitten relic of antiquity, forsaken as it seems to be, 
 by everything and everybody, even by God himself. Once 
 one of the proudest cities of the Orient, now generated 
 into a few mud huts in the midst of general devastation 
 and waste. Its plains were only seventeen centuries ago 
 accounted among the richest in the world. Now they 
 are a parched bottom of salty mud, springless, water- 
 less, not even old Jordan any longer replenishing them 
 with moisture. Near the base of the mountain on the 
 west, however, the spring of Elisha gushes forth, the 
 only dependence of the inhabitants for water. Even this 
 is so old that it was mentioned in (II Kings 11-19-22). 
 
 This place and its plains are mentioned more than 
 fifty times, in the Old and New Testaments, as the 
 scene of many stirring Biblical experiences, not the least 
 interesting among which are to be found the tragic 
 accounts of the battles among the inhabitants of the 
 neighboring kingdoms and tribes, contending for the 
 possession of its domain as well as the prophesies fore- 
 told of its destruction (See Numbers 33-47-48; Joshua 
 5; Joshua 6-26-1 ; Kings 16-34; II Kings 2). 
 
 From here we see the Jordan, a small stream of 
 
 68 
 
water, and not far away therein, is where the baptism 
 of our Lord occurred, although again our guide-book, 
 the New Testament, is somewhat contradictory on this 
 point as to the exact locality, but all are agreed that it 
 was in the water of Jordan that He was baptized. 
 
 Nazareth, the birthplace of the Son of Peace, is 
 fascinatingly interesting to a visitor. It is here He came 
 from Bethlehem, the place of His birth. It is here where 
 He spent His boyhood days, and communed with God 
 amidst these very mountain and valley scenes, which still 
 exist unchanged. Great mountains these, imperishable 
 relics of the days of our Saviour. Although we may not 
 be able to put our finger upon the very spot where He 
 lived, or the shop in which He wielded the carpenter's Same scenes - m 
 hammer, or the synagogue in which He first publicly Judea to-day, as of 
 preached, yet it is a certain fact that in this quiet little old. 
 village He spent the most of His life. It is here and 
 at Tiberias and other places of Judea where He made 
 those observations, and had those experiences with 
 human life upon which the doctrines of the New Testa- 
 ment are based. In this country of unchanged and 
 unchangeable habits, it is interesting to note to this very 
 day most of the domestic habits and repetition of 
 domestic agricultural and industrial scenes, so many 
 times vividly portrayed by the Saviour in the accounts 
 of the apostles. There is Mary's fountain, still gushing 
 forth limpid water, the only one in the whole town with 
 which the thirst of its inhabitants has been replenished 
 for centuries, even before the birth of Christ. There 
 grow in the field about lilies of the valley and roses of 
 Sharon, symbolized by the Great Teacher as emblematic 
 of human piety and virtue. There can be heard in all 
 directions the cackling of the hen as she is brooding 
 over, and protecting her chickens, and the crowing of the 
 
 69 
 
cock, which now and then sounds forth so clearly like a 
 clarion note from a neighboring hill or barn. Winding 
 their way up the hot and dusty roads about Nazareth 
 may also be seen the jagged but faithful donkey, groan- 
 ing under the weight of his burden and sitting upon 
 which, with flowing gown, is the turbaned inhabitant of 
 the place, the very picture of the ancient drawings which 
 represent the scene. Thus one thing is sure, that these 
 flowers, fowls and animals are each descended in the 
 line of succession from those which formed the subject 
 of the apostolic descriptions, pulsating with the same life 
 and characterized by the same habits as their progenitors 
 of two thousand years ago, living in the same atmos- 
 pheric conditions and influenced by the same surround- 
 ings. 
 
 One should go to Tiberias and the Sea of Galilee, 
 there also to view the field of Christ's greatest activity. 
 This sea is not of the size its name implies. It is nothing 
 but an ordinary American lake, barricaded on both sides, 
 as it were, with great mountains, the northern and south- 
 ern extremities of which gradually broadening out into 
 the valleys. Standing at any one point of the lake, one 
 can see the whole of its shores. While it is true that old 
 Capernaum has left hardly a mark of its location, yet 
 its former site is reasonably certain. It is here where 
 our Lord, after being rejected at Nazareth, came and 
 dwelt (Matt. 4-13) and which was then called His own 
 city (Matt. 9-1). Here it was He healed the lunatic in 
 the synagogue (Mark 1-28) and cured Peter's mother- 
 in-law (Luke 4-38-41), restored the paralytic, called to 
 his aid Matthew (Matt. 9-9), cured the centurion's ser- 
 vant (Luke 7-1), restored the daughter of Jairus from 
 the dead (Mark 5-32-43) and obtained the tribute money 
 from the mouth of a fish (Matt. 17-24-27). It was near 
 
 70 
 
here that He chose His twelve disciples (Mark 3-13-19), 
 delivered the sermon on the Mount (Matt. 5), speaking 
 the parables of the "Sower," the "Tares," the "Treasure 
 Hid in the Field," the "Merchant Seeking Goodly 
 Pearls," and the "Net Cast into the Sea" (Matt. 13). 
 It was here He gave a lecture on "Fasting," on "For- 
 mality" to the Hyprocritical Pharisees and delivered His 
 master sermons in the synagogue on "Humility," "For- 
 bearance" and "Brotherly Love" to His disciples (Mark 
 9-33-50). 
 
 Thus it is seen at a glance that this small body of 
 water has a great place in history, and was the scene of 
 many of those miracles from which Christians argue 
 the divinity of Christ. When sitting upon the shores of 
 this lake, one Sunday afternoon, the thought flashed 
 across my mind that there was before me a place about 
 which hundreds of thousands of sermons that instant 
 were being preached, and its immortal fame thundered 
 forth to millions of listening Christians throughout the 
 civilized world. This very thought gave its ripples 
 almost a magic quiver. It seemed almost like a dream 
 thus to be sitting. One is hardly conscious that he is 
 looking upon the real sea and sitting upon its very shore 
 and looking upon the very mountains which were the 
 scenes of these miraculous doings. With other places, 
 such as the great battle fields, the eyes of the whole 
 world are focused upon them for the time being, and 
 as soon as the smoke of battle is gone, the eyes are lifted 
 and they no longer become the subject of universal com- 
 ment and observation. Although great historic scenes 
 in Greece and Rome elicit more or less attention by 
 scholars and travelers, yet not the greatest of which 
 are now and never have been the subject of universal 
 sermons. So this sea and its surroundings presented 
 
 71 
 
Attendants of 
 flocks, descended 
 from ancient tribes 
 of shepherds. 
 
 nearly two thousand years ago scenes of superhuman 
 interest, yet it is not the isolated scholar and the occa- 
 sional traveler or the reader of history which alone immor- 
 talize it, but increasingly as the ages go on, they become 
 the daily subject of comment and discussion, with an 
 ever increasing army of observers, reaching into the 
 many millions. Upon the hilly site of Tiberias, there 
 was the repetition of several scenes, so beautifully de- 
 picted in the apostolic account of that country. From 
 one point of view we saw several flocks of sheep 
 browsing upon the short cut grass of an immense green 
 field, sloping beautifully from the water's edge. This 
 flock was attended by the proverbial shepherd, a peasant 
 of the country, with staff in hand, poorly, but pictur- 
 esquely clad. From early morning till late at night the 
 sole companions of this shepherd boy, were his hundred 
 or more sheep. I learned that his ancestors for genera- 
 tions were of the tribe of shepherds, whose business 
 it has always been to attend the flocks. Again, further 
 up on the top of the sloping mountain sides or hills were 
 basking in the sun acres of beautiful wild flowers, grow- 
 ing like weeds in a rich garden, waist high of varigated 
 colors and much brilliancy. These fields of flowers 
 seemed to grow in patches in several acres each, scat- 
 tered around upon the plains. Here again, was a 
 scene with which we have always been made familiar 
 by Biblical lore. Thus we could go on ad infinitum, 
 with many others which, however, would prove burden- 
 some to the mind, especially those who have not been 
 privileged to see the original. Some travelers who have 
 omitted to visit the Holy Lands claim as the ground of 
 their excuse that they have feared too close inspection 
 of the place where these holy scenes occurred would 
 detract more or less from the charm or mysticism 
 
 72 
 
with which the imagination, at a great distance, seizes 
 their minds. Not so with us. The Christian religion 
 is founded upon the doctrine of truth and reality. One 
 is synonomous with the other. The nearer one comes 
 to the truth and reality, the nearer he comes to the fun- 
 damental doctrine of the Christian religion and, of 
 course, the closer to the Great Founder one gets, or the 
 scenes of His physical activity, the more he realizes that 
 after all, Christ was not that mysterious Spirit who was 
 so far above men and His fellow creatures that He could 
 not possibly be one of them. Unless He had been one of 
 them, He could not have been the Christ. It was His 
 very human nature that He possessed that enabled Him 
 to sympathize with humanity and humanity with Him, 
 which lay at the bottom of His great religion. In this 
 sense we should not be afraid to associate ourselves or 
 our imagination as closely with His physical character- 
 istics and doings on earth as is possible. 
 
 Before pulling the curtain down over the Judean 
 scene, we must take a parting glance at Mount Tabor. 
 the Mount of Transfiguration. It rises nearly one mile 
 in regular conical shape, out of the beautiful plain of 
 Esdraeleon, being at its base, perhaps in diameter, 
 three miles, and running to a point, at its summit, 
 not over a quarter of a mile in diameter. Instead of 
 rocks and rough surface upon its sloping sides, it is 
 mostly cultivated with green fields and vegetation, which 
 in the distance look like green velvet carpets. Winding 
 around from the base to its summit, with consummate 
 skill, is a graded road, the foundation of which was 
 laid by the Romans, which zig-zags in such regular 
 courses as to present, at a distant view, the appearance 
 of a great white snake, from base to summit. 
 
 On horseback, I ascended to its top, from which in 
 
 74 
 
all directions before my eyes I beheld the grandest scene, 
 
 without exception, in historical interest and soft effect 
 
 which it has been my privilege to see. Before me, in 
 
 the great panoramic scenes of plains, mountains and 
 
 valleys, fertile, soft, cultivated and charming in the ex- , 
 
 treme, were those thousand and one scenes of battles, 
 
 strifes and miracles so often depicted in Biblical lore. 
 
 But I must not enlarge, for I am now in the center of an 
 
 intensely religious atmosphere and history, which is 
 
 enough to enthuse the most stupid imagination and to 
 
 turn his thoughts from this world of care to the hoary 
 
 past, as well as spiritual things above. To illustrate : s . cene . of . 3,00 ° Rus " 
 
 When I commenced to descend, I saw before me a wind- ,, \_ fL , 
 
 ' Mount Tabor. 
 
 ing procession of three thousand devotees of the Russian 
 Church, the van of which was near the summit, the rear 
 guard, stretched far out upon the plains below. They 
 were traveling three abreast. They had in their hands 
 walking staffs, and upon their backs they were loaded 
 with pots, kettles and other cooking implements. Most 
 of them were hatless. Some were young, many very, 
 very old. As they stretched out in this winding zig- 
 zag road, it looked like an army of several thousand 
 marching. I passed by them on my way down. Almost 
 all the men and women had copper-colored, grim, hard set 
 visages, determined to stand upon the Mount of Transfig- 
 uration and there to offer up their prayers. They had 
 come several thousands of miles from the barren plains of 
 Russia, a devoted pilgrimage, to the land of their Saviour. 
 They had encountered every hardship ; had walked in great 
 boots with leather tops to the knee, over three hundred 
 miles, camping in hospices and upon the open plains. 
 I am sure it would be safer to utter a word against 
 their child, so strong was their faith, than it would be 
 to utter it against their Christ. Afterwards I saw these 
 
 75 
 
same pilgrims on Easter day, in Jerusalem, they being 
 a part of an army of ten thousand from their country 
 who annually visit this Mecca of Christians. I saw 
 upon the wayside several instances of aged men and 
 women panting under the glaring sun, being tenderly 
 cared for by younger ones. I could not speak their 
 language, or they mine. I concluded that they would 
 soon, by their appearance, meet their Lord elsewhere. 
 When in Jerusalem, there were hundreds who died daily, 
 as the result of disease from these pilgrimages, and I 
 have no doubt but some of those faithful, whom I saw 
 thus afflicted upon the side of Mount Tabor, were those 
 whose bodies were carried through the streets of Jeru- 
 salem, sadly to the music of the Russian requiem. 
 
 Urbanna flows 
 rapidly yet, as of 
 old, through 
 Damascus. 
 
 DAMASCUS. 
 
 We now have left Judea and are within the precincts 
 of ancient Damascus, said to be by many writers the old- 
 est city in the world. The native population of this old 
 place are Arabs and few Jews. The prevailing religion 
 now is that of Moslem, the same as throughout the Holy 
 Lands. 
 
 The city is picturesquely situated in the midst of the 
 rich plains of Damascus, extending many miles north 
 and south and narrower east and west. It is in many 
 respects famous for its productivity. The modern fea- 
 tures of interest, of course, are its great bazaars, where 
 the rugs and carpets of the Orient find their market and 
 from which the whole world buys at retail and wholesale 
 as well. The River Urbana flows still as rapidly through 
 its center as when referred to in Scripture. The street, 
 called Straight, to which Paul referred, still is there, 
 upon its original lines, venerable old path, leading from 
 the city wall to the center of the town and over which 
 
 7 6 
 
so many millions of human beings must have passed 
 since even it has become famous by its Scriptural refer- 
 ence. It is the Broadway of Damascus. The origin 
 of the city is almost prehistoric, and certainly penetrates 
 deeply into the mist of antiquity, because it had become 
 a city of fame, when Abraham lived, since the steward 
 of his house was Elizer of Damascus, as we find it 
 recorded in Gen. 15-2. 
 
 A little Jewish maid was taken from Palestine by 
 the inhabitants of this ancient city and delivered to The story of the 
 Naaman, a general of Syria, and became a waitress little Jewish maid, 
 upon his wife. As is well known, Naaman was a leper, 
 and the little captive prayed to her Lord, wishing that 
 he were with the Prophet that was in Samaria, from 
 whence she came, for then the General would recover 
 from his leprosy. 
 
 He was told of this prayer, and started out for 
 Samaria, and meeting the Prophet, was told to wash 
 himself in the River Jordan. It was then that the proud 
 Damascene replied, "Are not Urbana and Pharpar Rivers 
 of Damascus, better than all the waters of Israel, and 
 may I not zvash in them and be clean?" Being con- 
 vinced, however, that the waters were at least as clean 
 as those of Damascus, he washed; and we are told (II 
 Kings 12-14) that he was rewarded by being healed. 
 
 This is a Bible story, the point of which we have 
 repeated, because we are sure that it has been woven 
 into the imagination of many children and others who 
 have read the stories of the Bible for ages, and partic- 
 ularly interesting to one, when within the confines of this 
 ancient city. 
 
 One thing impressed us as particularly worthy of 
 notice, and that was the beautiful suburban drives about 
 Damascus in certain directions. It was our good fortune 
 
 77 
 
to be favored with the friendship of the British Consul 
 at Damascus, whose cultured parents in London have 
 for many years been esteemed among our closest friends. 
 
 One day we were invited by him to go with a party 
 (gentlemen upon prancing Arab steeds, ladies in easy 
 victorias) to visit the owner of a rich estate, some ten 
 miles distant. Our course was over a perfectly level and 
 beautifully macadamized road, through miles of fertile 
 plains and groves of walnut, palm, fig, date, orange and 
 numerous other fruit trees of unlimited variety. 
 
 The fields were separated one from the other, gen- 
 erally by straight, tall poplars, and the whole country 
 was irrigated by little canals, fed by the historic Urbana. 
 It was a picturesque and unusual scene to find, combined 
 in luxurious growth, grains, potatoes and vegetation and 
 grasses of all kinds, with fruit, nut and ornamental trees 
 in the same fields. When reaching the home of his 
 friend, we found it to be not unlike, in hospitable and 
 generous proportions, the grand old plantation homes of 
 the South. In it was the customary Oriental court, in 
 the center of which was a spouting fountain, and the 
 sides of which were literally covered and loaded down 
 with growing and running roses of all kinds. We were 
 treated to the usual bon bon confectionery and coffee, 
 with which every visitor at a Moslem home is presented, 
 no matter whether in a mud hut or in a palace. 
 
 The custom is so general that, although they may 
 not have a chair to offer you to sit down upon, it is 
 considered an unpardonable sin not to present you with 
 a variety of first-class confectionery and coffee. 
 
 We are now perhaps running into common-place de- 
 tails and occupying the space which probably could be 
 better devoted to the consideration of larger matters of 
 interest to the traveler and student. 
 
 78 
 
Returning now to the city, I cannot refrain from 
 relieving this story from the picturesque and romantic 
 by allusion to the dog nuisance in the streets. Although 
 the hotel beds are clean and very comfortable and the 
 bazaars and stores have a businesslike and thrifty ap- 
 pearance, yet here, as in every place in Syria and Tur- 
 key, to which we will allude further, dogs seem to have 
 preference over men in many respects. They lie, dur- 
 ing the day, by hundreds upon an ordinary city block, 
 upon the sidewalk, stupid and sleepy. Instead of their 
 getting out of the way for passersby, the wayfarer has 
 to get out of their way. In the night they prowl about 
 as scavengers and live upon the rubbish and waste of 
 the kitchens, which are thrown out upon the street for 
 their delectation. They generally are born, reared and 
 die within the precincts of two or three city blocks. If 
 they go beyond their natural precinct, the penalty they 
 pay is to be bounced upon by the dogs of the other 
 precinct, and many actually are bitten to death. This 
 has been their history for centuries. Their presence is 
 not a passing inconvenience to the occasional visitor. It 
 is a downright nuisance and goes a good ways in deter- 
 iorating from the pleasure which one would otherwise 
 enjoy in these Moslem cities. 
 
 One day, speaking to the first lawyer of Damascus, 
 to whom we were introduced by our British Consul 
 friend, he told me that it would do no good to petition 
 the municipality for an ordinance removing this nuisance. 
 He said that the government at Constantinople was so 
 autocratic that even if a tax-paying citizen should com- 
 plain or present a memorial against it in any form or 
 against any other grievance that might exist, his com- 
 plaint would be likely attended with immediate arrest 
 and imprisonment for contempt of government. He said 
 
 79 
 
under the star and 
 crescent 
 
 he was quite free to express to me confidentially, as a 
 stranger, his condemnation of the nuisance, but he should 
 hesitate to talk it aloud to those in whom he had no 
 confidence. 
 
 I mention this incident, as well as the prevalence of 
 this nuisance, to illustrate the absolutely bad government 
 which everywhere prevailed under the "Star and 
 Cresent." 
 
 Visitors, subjects and citizens of foreign governments 
 have, by reason of international treaties, absolute pro- 
 tection of person and property. Especially is this so, 
 since the great Beyrout massacre in i860, when the lives 
 of twenty thousand Christians were sacrificed by the 
 knife and saber of the Moslem Turks. This treaty pro- 
 vided that in the event of trouble or dispute by subject 
 or citizen of a foreign government, with either the gov- 
 ernment of Turkey, or any of its municipalities, or any 
 of its natives, that the dispute should be at once referred 
 to the consul of that country there stationed, for imme- 
 diate hearing and determination. This accounts for the 
 fact that in the Ottoman Empire every town and city, 
 from three thousand inhabitants up, have numerous con- 
 suls of foreign governments at hand to protect for- 
 eigners in accordance with law. But this privilege of 
 protection, unfortunately, is not extended to the natives 
 of the country. They are nothing but slaves to govern- 
 mental oppression. The power of the Sultan was abso- 
 lute and irresponsible, and through him the subordinate 
 officials, everywhere, were alike, absolute and irrespon- 
 sible for their official action. Such a thing as a vote 
 or elective franchise or an election are words unknown 
 in the Arabic language. They are as meaningless to the 
 natives, rich and poor alike, as the books of Confuscius 
 in China. Abject and subordinated for centuries to the 
 
 80 
 
superior will of the reigning sovereign, they have lived 
 always in peaceful resignation and humiliation. But a 
 few months since, I received from my British friend in 
 Damascus a letter, in which he brought to my attention 
 the wonderful change that has been wrought in the gov- 
 ernment of the empire, as well as in Damascus, since 
 we were there in April last, and about which we have 
 all heard. 
 
 I was interested in reading in his letter the special 
 reference by him to this lawyer, whom he introduced 
 me to, and who explained the situation, as I have stated. 
 He wrote to me in substance : "Think of it, our mutual 
 friend who dared hardly whisper to you his opinion 
 concerning the dog nuisance last spring, has had the 
 membership from Damascus offered him in the consti- 
 tutional parliament at Constantinople, where we expect 
 soon to see and hear him declaim against existing muni- 
 cipal wrongs, including the dog nuisance, and this now, 
 with the applause of his countrymen and the sanction 
 of the Sultan." 
 
 Wonderful change this, so sudden a revolution with- 
 out blood or struggle. I was not surprised, however, 
 to learn of this revolution, for everywhere and from the 
 lips of everybody, who conversed at all, upon the sub- 
 ject, natives and foreigners alike, we heard nothing but 
 grumbling criticism of existing affairs. This forbode 
 of course the storm that was coming, and when at last 
 the electricity became so strong in the political atmos- 
 phere that it could no longer be self-contained, it shot 
 forth like lightning in the sky, followed by such a rain 
 of public sentiment of the many against the few, that 
 they had nothing to do but to yield, and hence this sud- 
 den but irresistible revolution. 
 
 Damascus is the political capitol of Syria. The 
 
 Grumbling criticism 
 everywhere fore- 
 bode the storm of 
 revolution. 
 
 81 
 
Baalbek the lace- 
 work ruins of 
 antiquity. 
 
 official title of the Shah, is Waly. He governs the coun- 
 try bordering upon Egypt to a point north of Haymath. 
 The principal provinces over which he has jurisdiction 
 are Beyrout, Acca and Jerusalem. There are quite a few 
 Christians here, living, however, in what we call the 
 Christian quarters. They do not mix socially or in a 
 business way much, if any, with the Moslem population. 
 It is as far back as 634 that the old city fell into the 
 hands of the Moslems. It was the center around which 
 the greatest conflicts of the Moslem armies, immediately 
 following the death of the Prophet, waged. Their hold 
 has ever been strong, although evidence of decline is 
 beginning on every hand to show itself in the rule of 
 the Moslem faith. 
 
 We now leave Damascus for Beyrout, a part of 
 Syria, upon the Mediterranean coast. To do so, how- 
 ever, we are obliged to pass over the Lebanon range of 
 mountains. About half way, and in the midst of a great 
 and beautiful plain, we come to old Baalbek, once the 
 center of the Roman and Grecian power, art and religious 
 worship, as well, now but an impoverished valley with 
 the grand old ruins of its temples to rescue the place 
 itself from oblivion. 
 
 One thing can be said with certainty concerning the 
 ruins at Baalbek, and that is that they are the most 
 magnificent to be found in the world. 
 
 In the first place, the stone and marble used in their 
 construction was of the hardest and the best possible 
 quality obtainable. The workmanship, especially upon 
 the temple of Bacchus, was of the highest skill and 
 exquisitely executed. The entrance doors in some of 
 these temples are so beautifully arched and elegantly 
 carved that the sculptor has left an impression to the 
 
 82 
 
eye, when viewing it a short distance, that it is lace work, 
 spread over the masonry. 
 
 To undertake anything like a description of these 
 ruins in particular, would require a small work of itself. 
 It sufficeth to say, that the great monstrous stones, which 
 enter into the construction of their foundations, in some 
 instances weighing thousands of tons apiece, the quality 
 of the marble used and the perfection of sculpturing 
 attained in the workmanship upon their fluted columns 
 and classic caps, together with the setting which they 
 have, in the midst of one of the most beautiful plains in 
 the world, give them a unique appearance. With a back- 
 ground in the near distance of mountains covered with 
 snow, even in the spring and summer time, being over- 
 arched with one of the most beautiful skies in all the 
 world, a perfect, porcelain blue, all combine to make this 
 an exhibition of ancient ruins extremely charming. From 
 Baalbek to Beyrout the route is picturesque, with moun- 
 tain scenery, and as you ascend the summit of the Leba- 
 non range and look down ten or fifteen miles ahead of 
 you, with the blue Mediterranean Sea in the far distance, 
 with the great plains before you at your feet, you are 
 treated to a landscape scene of rare beauty, such as is sel- 
 dom afforded anywhere on earth. When finally we reach 
 Beyrout, we then are in the principal port and commer- 
 cial city of Syria. It is an up-to-date, modern town, 
 where the hum of industry and activity in commerce are 
 apparent on every hand. The American college, with 
 its grand buildings, is here to be found, an institution 
 of which all English speaking people, and especially 
 Americans, are justly proud. It is complete in its organ- 
 ization and facilities for the highest education of its 
 students, all of whom are native Syrians. 
 
 Beyrout hums with 
 industries and 
 commerce. 
 
 83 
 
American college at 
 Jeyrout of far 
 eaching influence. 
 
 This college, we were proud to learn, has extended 
 a far-reaching, civilizing and Christianizing influence 
 throughout all Syria. The wealthiest of the Syrian fami- 
 lies, and even those of Palestine, send their young men 
 here to be educated, and even many of the Moslem 
 faith, for the college is strictly educational. 
 
 It is conceded by every traveler throughout the Holy 
 Land and Syria, that the one great thing needed is the 
 education of the masses. Intelligence and education are 
 the eternal foes of slavery and oppression. They are the 
 civilizers and Christianizers of barbarous countries. 
 With these elements, the educated few will forever 
 oppress the many, without them and without which there 
 is no material progress in matters of business, industry, 
 arts, sciences or government. The good influence which 
 one young educated Turk in a little Syrian village such as 
 Baalbek, as an illustration, has, is incalculable in many 
 directions. It makes him a philosopher and reasoner on 
 matters pertaining to the rights of his impoverished 
 neighbors. It broadens his charity toward them. It 
 strengthens his energy to organize in a hundred direc- 
 tions for their good. He, in short, unconsciously but 
 surely, sooner or later, becomes the village guide and 
 philosopher. His example forces admiration of his char- 
 acter, and if he be a Christian, his virtue argues to the 
 ignorant observers about him the superiority of his faith 
 to which he is devoted. 
 
 I have information from a reliable source that the 
 recent great revolutionary movements in the Ottoman 
 Empire were originated and pushed to a successful issue 
 because of the young educated Turks of the country. 
 Thus we have a practical demonstration of the powerful 
 influence for good, which education and general intelli- 
 gence have in these Oriental countries. 
 
 84 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Asia Minor and Constantinople. 
 
 AILING from Beyrout westward from the 
 Mediterranean, we have now left behind 
 us that country which has been the cradle 
 of religious history, although we have not 
 yet left all the scenes in the early develop- 
 ment of the Christian Church. We have 
 yet to call at Smyrna and Ephesus, the original western 
 frontiers of the early Christian civilization. It is be- 
 cause of the particular interest attached to this feature 
 of their existence that induced us to stop over here on 
 our way to Constantinople. When we arrived at Smyrna 
 we found, contrary to the general idea entertained by 
 one who has not been there, a large, bustling commercial 
 city of over three hundred thousand inhabitants, com- 
 posed of Romans, Greeks, Armenians, Arabs and num- 
 erous other populations. It rivals in commercial import- 
 ance almost any port of the Mediterranean, having direct 
 communication with the principal markets of Europe and 
 the Levant. Its annual export trade alone is about 
 $30,000,000, while its imports are about $25,000,000. It 
 is, of course, of very ancient origin, running through 
 which is a small perennial stream on whose banks, accord- 
 ing to tradition, its most distinguished inhabitant, the 
 great Homer, was born. It is in this old city that the 
 poetry of that most distinguished of all ancient poets 
 flourished. It was, therefore, in the remote past, the 
 center of literature and education, the claim to which it 
 has never fully relinquished. Evidence of this is found 
 in the fact that it has a great museum and library to-day, 
 
 Smyrna and Ephe- 
 sus the early west- 
 ern frontier of 
 Christianity. 
 
 85 
 
containing many marble sculptures, terra-cottas and glass 
 objects. The library contains alone over thirty thousand 
 volumes and two hundred manuscripts, very old, while 
 other collections of antiquities are found in the gardens 
 of the Ottoman Lyceum and churchyards. Christianity 
 prospered at an early date in this city in which was 
 situated one of the celebrated seven churches of Asia ; 
 although there were other cities where these churches 
 were constructed, which have entirely disappeared or but 
 faint traces of which remain, mentioned in the Apoca- 
 lypse, old Smyrna is the only one which to any extent 
 enjoys its original magnificance and power. From here we 
 go back in the interior of the country to pay our respects 
 to poor, old Ephesus, once the glory of the Orient, now 
 a prostrate corpse, buried beneath heaps of sand and 
 rubbish. Here it is where the celebrated Temple of 
 Diana was situated. The name of this temple is familiar 
 to every school boy, having acquired perhaps the first 
 reputation in the world. This temple has also been im- 
 mortalized by the graphic description given to it by the 
 apostolic accounts and which say that "all Asia and all 
 the world worshipped the great goddess," after whom this 
 splendid relic of antiquity was named. It is said that the 
 Ephesians even prided themselves as possessing the priv- 
 ilege of sweeping its temple, so magnificent and sacred 
 were these precincts. Ephesus was for many centuries 
 deredTortfT his" tne nea< ^ °^ tne Asiatic churches. The most distinguished 
 
 eloquent sermons. apostles and champions of the early Christian cause had 
 
 allied themselves with this church. Here it was that 
 St. Paul thundered forth many of his most eloquent 
 sermons ; that St. Timothy and St. John exerted their 
 greatest efforts to stimulate and popularize the primitive 
 growth of the Christian faith. St. Luke here lived, 
 preached, died and was buried. The tomb in which he 
 
 86 
 
 St. Paul here thun- 
 
was interred still exists or at least is pointed out, with 
 the sacred emblem of the bull, which was his symbol of 
 religion, carved upon its entrance, an unmistakable proof 
 that it was here where the body of the learned apostle 
 was entombed. Ephesus was also the favorite of the 
 Roman emperors, who visited upon it many imperial 
 favors after the period of Constantine, and it was here 
 that Justinian built a magnificent cathedral, upon the hill, 
 behind the ancient temple, the ruins of which are now 
 to be clearly seen. 
 
 History records that during the middle ages Ephesus 
 was the central place on the way from Europe to the 
 Holy Land, over which the Christians and the pilgrims 
 marched. This was the favorite place at which they 
 all stopped to worship at the shrine of St. John, whose 
 sepulchre was held in the greatest veneration and was 
 as sacred to them almost as the Holy Sepulchre in Jeru- 
 salem. Here, too, still remains the ruins of a great 
 theatre at Ephesus, one of the largest in Asia, seating 
 about thirty thousand persons. Its sixty-six rows of 
 seats, several stories and great stage are still to be seen, 
 the larger part of which glistens with slabs of marble, 
 it being the ancient custom for orators to address the 
 people upon all popular subjects in which their physical, 
 material, as well as spiritual welfare were involved. 
 
 There is little, if any doubt, but what it was in this 
 structure, the very platform of which can at this day be 
 seen, from which St. Paul preached with an eloquence 
 never since equalled in the Christian pulpit. 
 
 Later on, during or in the middles ages, the Moslem 
 power and destructive rule was extended westward far 
 beyond Asia Minor. The city fell gradually into decay, 
 and like most all other places, became ruined and de- 
 
 87 
 
Passing the plains 
 of Troy, famed by 
 Homeric song. 
 
 stroyed by the poisonous fangs of the unholy faith and 
 practices of this barbarous sect. 
 
 Returning now to resume our westward Mediter- 
 ranean trip, a few observations on the way to Con- 
 stantinople may not be amiss. From Smyrna all the way, 
 occupying a journey of several days, we skirt closely to 
 the coast of Asia Minor and pass many beautiful islands 
 in the Archipelago and through the Straits of Dar- 
 danelles, up through the Sea of Marmara. All the way 
 can be seen rich fields and beautiful mountains and small 
 towns here and there dotting the seacoast. There are 
 many historic islands, among which are Lemnos and 
 Mitylene. We also pass by the plains of Troy, made 
 famous in Homeric song, and up through the Dardanelles 
 or Hellespont, the passage of which has caused many a 
 heroic conflict as the hosts of the East were at this 
 point obstructed by the defenders of the West. We 
 finally reach Constantinople, the great hillside city of the 
 East, glistening with a hundred minareted mosques. 
 
 This capital of the Ottoman Empire really consists of 
 two cities, divided by the River Golden Horn, to wit, 
 Pera, inhabited by European population, and Stamboul, 
 by the Mohammedans. They are divided by the river and 
 connected with an old wooden bridge about one thou- 
 sand feet in length. The former contains a population of 
 about half a million, the latter the same, making a total 
 approximately of one million. 
 
 The filth, dirt and Oriental life of which we hear so 
 much in Constantinople, is almost exclusively found in 
 Stamboul, while Pera presents an appearance of thrift, 
 elegance and architectural beauty of many of its build- 
 ings equal to any city of similar population on the West- 
 ern Hemisphere. All the mosques, with possibly one or 
 two unimportant exceptions, are found in Stamboul. We 
 
 88 
 
begin in Pera to feel the influence of Western civiliza- 
 tion and to see less goimis and fezes in the city of 
 Constantinople than in the preceding places which we 
 have described. 
 
 Here the Greek and the Jew as well, yield an im- 
 mense influence upon the commercial, social and religious 
 life and domestic habits. It has often been said that 
 Constantinople is the key to the East. By this, it is 
 meant, from a military point of view, that if the Bos- 
 phorous and the Dardanelles were open to the free 
 manaeuvers of European nations that would utilize the 
 Black Sea as a base of naval supply and operations, the 
 whole Mediterranean to the East would be thus com- 
 manded and put at the mercy of the nation or nations 
 thus having control. For many centuries the natural 
 situation of the place has been the envy of ambitious 
 nations and the subject of numerous treaties. 
 
 Rome abandoned the imperial city on the Tiber and 
 moved its capitol here because, chiefly of its strategetic 
 situation, and thus the more easily to acquire control 
 over its Eastern provinces. 
 
 Constantine was its first great emperor, who here built 
 his palace upon the heights of Stamboul and commenced 
 construction of the great walls about the city completed 
 by Theodosius, and which to this day remain almost 
 intact. Thus the capitol of the Ottoman Empire bears 
 the name of its first Roman emperor. Later on it 
 became the principal point of attack during the middle 
 ages from the barbarous legions of the East, and it 
 was here that the last struggle of the Roman power 
 was made, in defense of its walls. It was here that the 
 last spark of Roman life as such, was extinguished, and 
 its star of proud military glory which it once had, went 
 down. The Mohammedans having finally succeded in 
 
 Ancient Rome 
 abandoned as 
 Imperial Capital for 
 Constantinople. 
 
 8 9 
 
the thirteenth century in planting the banner of Islam 
 upon its walls, have ever since remained in occupation 
 and established within its palace the head of its religion, 
 in the person of the Sultan. In him is centered all the 
 spiritual power, accredited to his predecessor, Moham- 
 med, and the civil power of the government as well. The 
 Mohammedan religion is as devoutly followed here, per- 
 haps if not more so, than any city professing the Moslem 
 faith. 
 
 San Sophia still remains upon the summit of the 
 ancient hill, a landmark even of early Christian faith, 
 because this is the structure which Justinian built in 
 the sixth century, designing that it should be the 
 greatest monument to Christ as a place of worship, 
 in point of richness and elegance, in the world. It has 
 not been materially changed. Seven hundred years after- 
 wards the Moslems converted it into a place for their 
 worship. We are told that the great central dome in 
 some respects was changed and re-constructed, to make 
 the place conform to the prescribed method of Moslem 
 worship. They recognize but one God, and while there 
 are various distinct sects, they insist that they have but 
 one God to worship, to whom they unitedly and at one 
 time offer up their prayers whatever the minor differ- 
 ences are with regard to other matters of belief. Among 
 other celebrated mosques of Stamboul, is the mosque of 
 Sultan Selim, which stands on the fifth hill, and was 
 built by Suleyman, the magnificent, in honor of his 
 father, Selim, the First. It is small, but possesses the 
 largest dome in Constantinople. Then, again, is the 
 Suleyman Mosque, built a little less than five hundred 
 years ago, and is said by many to be the finest of all 
 the buildings erected as mosques in the city. We simply 
 make mention in passing of a few of these structures, 
 
 90 
 
because they are the places most talked about, to be seen 
 when in the city, although to me of the least interest, 
 simply because I firmly believe that there is no religion 
 or moral principle at the bottom of their worship. 
 
 The bazaars of Constantinople are fine, perhaps the 
 finest of all the Oriental cities. Rugs from all Persia 
 and Eastern countries find a market here. Thousands of 
 red-fezzed brilliantly colored gowned Turks sit on their 
 legs in the wall recesses of the bazaars selling all manner 
 of silk, rugs and carpets to the passersby. Jewelry and 
 trinkets of all kinds are here manufactured. Not in 
 great factories as in the West, but in small places, as 
 you see them along the streets and in small shops. Here 
 is where the artisans do their work in the East, and 
 this, to a large extent, accounts for the absence of all 
 factories, as in our own and other countries, where great 
 aggregations of labor under one roof, with machinery 
 are organized to accomplish big results. 
 
 The ride up the Bosphorous by numerous small steam- 
 ers that frequently ply between the city and near the 
 southern borders of the Black Sea is regarded by all 
 as one of the softest and most picturesque in all Europe. 
 Skiriting the banks of the strait, which is not over a 
 mile in width, are to be seen numerous villas and palaces, 
 together with beautiful towns, all evincing superior social 
 and domestic life, along its banks. Across the bay from 
 Constantinople, about two miles away, is Scutari. This 
 is in Asia, and is a part of the municipality of Constan- 
 tinople, travel between which two places is facilitated 
 by numerous small ferry boats. This is a Mohammedan 
 section, with bad streets, no particular history, containing 
 as its principal point of interest the Church of the Howl- 
 ing Dervishes, where two or three times a week these 
 fanatical Mohammedans assemble and ply their trade, as 
 
 The bazaars of 
 Constantinople, the 
 best in the Orient. 
 
 Artisans in the East 
 work in streets. 
 In the West in 
 factories. 
 
 91 
 
Howling Dervishes 
 
 go like shuttle cock which they call worship 
 
 machines. 
 
 Dervishes worship 
 with whirl and gig 
 and a few sharp 
 yells. 
 
 it would seem to the casual observer, for coin, osten- 
 sibly professing to be followers of the faith of Moham- 
 med, according to the particular tenets of their belief. 
 They carry on in public, upon the floor of a great room 
 where all can see, a sort of vocal and athletic exercise, 
 
 About a dozen at a time will 
 form a circle, and while in a sitting posture, look upward 
 and downward with that rapidity of motion that would 
 reflect credit upon the quickness of a shuttle cock ma- 
 chine. Loosing breath for an instant, their motion ceases, 
 and then groans issue forth and weird yells, which, to 
 the observer would seem to indicate that they are carried 
 off in the ecstacy of their spiritual feeling to regions 
 above, communing with their beloved prophet. 
 
 As their groans cease and their muscles become 
 rested, they start in again, and before the wind-up, they 
 have performed every possible athletic feat that the 
 human form is possible of executing, you might say. 
 With a whirl and a gig and a few sharp yells, the 
 ceremony is over, the visitor is out his fifty cents, and 
 the money is afterwards divided between them. This 
 has become such a shameful exhibition of human deprav- 
 ity for many years that it has even shamed the Moslem 
 authorities, and it looks now as though it will soon be a 
 thing of the past, because of certain official restraints 
 being imposed upon the performers. In Scutari also is 
 an American woman's college, organized for the same 
 purpose and patronized substantially by the same class 
 of families as the American college at Beyrout. It has 
 prospered immensely, and is wielding a powerful influ- 
 ence for good throughout the whole empire. We visited 
 this college and met many of the teachers and scholars, 
 and were more than pleased to see upon every hand 
 evidence of their strength and rapid development. The 
 
 92 
 
institution is fast reflecting honor upon our country. One 
 thing which evinces the growing estrangement between 
 the followers of the Moslem and Christian religions in 
 Constantinople, is the fact that until recently foreigners 
 could visit all of the great mosques without official per- 
 mission. Now it is required that permission must be 
 first obtained from, and a request made by the consul of 
 the country of which the visitor is a subject or citizen, 
 duly authenticated by all technical formality. Even this 
 does not suffice. The visitor is obliged to have an official 
 attendant from the consul's office, in uniform, to accom- 
 pany him with the credentials of the consul, to the 
 mosque he intends to visit. It involves an interminable 
 amount of trouble and unnecessary ceremony, but it 
 seems to be now an inexorable exaction of the author- 
 ities, the primary purpose of which is to discourage 
 Christians from entering the portals of their sacred insti- 
 tutions. 
 
 Visitors now must 
 have their consul's 
 credentials to visit 
 mosques. 
 
 93 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Greece. 
 
 RAILING from Constantinople to Piraeus, 
 which occupies two or three days, we are 
 
 continuing the beautiful sea voyage that 
 we have had all the way from Beyrout, 
 with the same general landscape scenery, 
 soft and balmy atmosphere and clear skies. 
 We pass innumerable islands of historic interest. 
 When approaching Piraeus, we first see the port of 
 Athens. In ancient times the city limits extended to 
 this port, which is but several miles away from the 
 center of the city or acropolis. At last we have entered 
 the ancient city of Grecian art, literature and science. 
 First to behold of prominence, rising out from the midst 
 of the city, is the sugar loaf mount, Lycabetus, upon the 
 summit of which is an ancient monastery and chapel. 
 I had never before heard of this feature of Athens spoken 
 of, and therefore to me it was a surprise to see so lofty 
 a mountain pinnacle as this, rising as it were out of the 
 very city itself, being at its base not over a quarter of 
 a mile, and at its summit less than three hundred feet, 
 while it runs up with a very sharp slope at least seventy- 
 five degrees right angle, perhaps not less than eight 
 hundred feet from the city below. This, of course, has 
 no particular historical importance, but we confused it 
 in the distance as being the famous acropolis, although 
 the buildings lacked the colonnade effect of the Par- 
 thenon, as viewed from a point further away. When 
 coming nearer, however, we discovered our mistake, 
 and rising up in another section of the city can 
 
 94 
 
be seen the old classic Parthenon standing like a sentinel, 
 old and grim, upon the pinnacle of the acropolis hill or 
 mountain, with its thousands of years of tragic history. 
 
 The acropolis must originally have been a fortress, 
 like that at Mycenae. It probably is a mile further dis- 
 tant from the sea. It is situated upon a mountainous 
 or hilly pinnacle, so as to facilitate the retreat of its 
 defenders and to watch as a place of safety in case of 
 danger apprehended from the water, and at the same 
 time observe from their high altitude the country sur- 
 rounding. The plateau on the top of the acropolis is 
 about one thousand feet in length and five hundred feet 
 in width. It is, generally speaking, a level spot, and 
 contains the three famous ancient structures, the Par- 
 thenon, Erechtheum and the Propylaea. The Propylaea 
 was the great entrance structure to the acropolis proper, 
 and famous in antiquity perhaps as among the greatest 
 oriental productions in the city, having a very ancient 
 origin, at least four hundred years B. C. It consists of 
 Pentelic marble, which is quarried off in the Pentelic 
 range of mountains, about ten miles away. Next to it is 
 the little temple of Nike, once nearly destroyed and 
 now partly restored. It is a part, you might say, of 
 the Propylaea itself, as it appears from below and was 
 built to commemorate the Athenian victories of Mara- 
 thon, Plataea and Salamis. 
 
 This recalls to mind the greatest historic fact in the 
 life of the nation from primitive times, and that is their 
 wonderful racial unity ; although in the early history of 
 the Hellenic people, they were divided by innumerable 
 contentions over territorial possessions, and were always 
 in a state of more or less political disintegration, re-com- 
 bination and petty jealousies. This was the internal side 
 of their national life, but whenever it came to be a ques- 
 
 Parthenon is on a 
 mountainous pin- 
 nacle, rather than 
 hill. 
 
 Greeks fought 
 among themselves, 
 but united against 
 the world. 
 
 95 
 
tion between the Grecian and Hellenic people, as against 
 the outside world, they were generally united. Among 
 the other ancient relics to which we would call attention 
 in passing, is the Arch of Hadrian, with the Temple of 
 Jupiter, which separated ancient Athens from the mod- 
 ern town, as the inscriptions carved on the friezes indi- 
 cate ; for it says : "This is the Athens of Thesus, the 
 ancient city," and on the opposite side: "This is the 
 city of Hadrian, and not that of Thesus." 
 
 Again, we find on the splendid Temple of Jubiter that 
 there only remain a few columns of the Corinthian style, 
 but they present an exceptionally classic and majestic 
 appearance. Much history attaches to this old temple. 
 We cannot refrain from mentioning the old Stadium, 
 where the Panotheanic games were celebrated. The 
 Stadium was constructed about three hundred B. C. by a 
 Grecian orator named Lykourgos, whose name is sec- 
 ond only in fame among the ancient statesmen and 
 orators of Athens to that of Demosthenes. 
 
 A few years ago it was rebuilt on the old foundation 
 and lines and restored, at great expense, to its original 
 appearance. This was done by a wealthy Athenian, who 
 thus manifested that pride of country and ambition to 
 further its artistic development to which we have already 
 alluded as a national characteristic of the Greeks. 
 
 It was constructed of Pentelic marble, and said to 
 have been able to have seated fifty thousand spectators. 
 We all recall the familiar fact that it was with a decree 
 of the city of Athens, that the ashes of Atticus were 
 interred here and now remain in peace, immortalized 
 forever by this, one of the greatest monuments to man. 
 From the Stadium to Marathon, it is said to be twenty- 
 six miles. It was from that battle field to the Stadium 
 that the ancient races took place, covering a period of 
 
 96 
 
many centuries, the winners in which were the ones who 
 would first reach its center before the eyes of fifty thou- 
 sand spectators, amidst the deafening applause with 
 which they were honored. These races were made to 
 commemorate the great victory of the Greeks over the 
 Persians on the field of Marathon and to engrave for- 
 ever in the memory of the people recollections of the 
 victory upon that historic field. The form of the cele- 
 bration was suggested by the fact that immediately 
 upon the triumph of the Grecian arms, an athletic mes- 
 senger was sent by foot from Marathon to Athens, 
 with the utmost speed to herald the glorious news to 
 the Athenians, who were assembled upon the spot of the 
 Stadium to hear the news. The young man, however, 
 had put forth such a tremendous effort to deliver the 
 message that he reached within a few yards of the city 
 limits in an unprecedented short period of time, but his 
 physical exercise was so great that he fell dead just 
 before handing the message to the anxious populace. 
 
 This was the origin of the great Marathon races. 
 It is said, to win a prize in these races was an honor 
 which immortalized the name of the winner, and was 
 esteemed the greatest which a private citizen could 
 acquire in the estimation of the nation, ranking him as 
 an object of admiration equal to the greatest of its 
 orators, sculptors or statesmen. It was our pleasure to 
 take a carriage ride from the very portals of the Stadium 
 to the battle field of Marathon, to go over the very 
 road over which these races were run. A fascinating 
 ride was this, over the beautiful valley, level as a table 
 most of the way, between ranges of mountains in the 
 distance, passing by innumerable olive tree groves, pic- 
 turesque in the extreme. An old inn is just half way 
 between the Stadium and the monument of the battle 
 
 To be first in 
 Marathon race 
 immortalized the 
 winner. 
 
 97 
 
Monument at Marathon. 
 
 Greece. 
 (From our original photograph,) 
 
field, at which it is said, the faithful messenger stopped 
 for refreshments. We could not resist the temptation 
 of stopping there for the same purpose and to hear the 
 ancient story from the lips of some of the inhabitants 
 thereabouts, claiming to be descendants of those who 
 lived in the valley when these historic events occurred. 
 Like Waterloo, there was a great earth mound put by the 
 ancients upon the center of the battle field, to per- 
 petuate the memory of a great victory. It still remains 
 and we are pleased to present herewith a representation 
 of the same as it appears to-day. It was not the great 
 numbers involved in this conflict, nor the many lives 
 sacrificed upon this field, nor the reputation of Miltiades, 
 nor the fact that it was Greek against Medes and 
 Persians that have made this battle classic in ancient 
 history, and ranking it among the first in importance. 
 It is because the Greeks there dealt the first deadly blozv 
 to the mighty hosts of barbarians from the East, who 
 were fast overrunning Western civilization, and gave 
 them such a setback that thereafter their power in the 
 West began to wane, and they made no more trium- 
 phant marches toward the setting sun. Had the vic- 
 tory been with the Medes and Persians, it is seriously 
 questionable whether we would have had any Europe 
 of to-day, but instead, that continent would most prob- 
 ably have been at this time steeped as lowly in human 
 degredation and stupidity as the people of the Eastern 
 Empires now are. 
 
 The statuary found in the many excavations in 
 Greece and its Islands during the past fifty years has 
 thrown a sidelight upon its ancient art which before was 
 only known in fable and song. The spade of the exca- 
 vator has brought to the surface the originals of its 
 greatest sculptors, including Praxitilles and Pheidias, and 
 
 A great mound like 
 Waterloo perpet- 
 uates Marathon 
 victory. 
 
 99 
 
among which were found the Hermes of the former, and 
 Athena Panthenos of the latter. The most important 
 of these discoveries have been found at Mycenae, and 
 Delphi, the two great art centers of antiquity. Even 
 the statue of Demosthenes, the master orator of the 
 ancients, has been turned up, and we can now look 
 upon his features and finely shaped head. We hesitate 
 to close our reference to charming old Athens, and reluct- 
 antly do so, as we reluctantly left it ; but there is so much 
 more to say about its many subjects of interest, that in 
 order to do them justice, it would require several chapters. 
 We therefore omit all allusion to them ; we can only refer 
 to the fact that as Americans, we were proud to learn 
 again that the great work of discovery and excavation, 
 which has of recent years been crowned with such mag- 
 nificent rewards, was largely performed by our fellow 
 citizen, the late Dr. Schliemann. 
 
 ioo 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Austria. 
 
 AILING north from Patras, the western 
 port of Greece, along the Dalmatian coast 
 of the Adriatic Sea, to the southern port 
 of Austria, Trieste, is charming. It is 
 justly celebrated for its wonderful variety 
 of scenery and its matchless softness and 
 picturesqueness. The clear, blue sky, so characteristic of 
 southern Europe, the exquisite color of the sea water 
 as it seems to rest so quietly sheltered behind hundreds 
 of fascinating islands reflected in its mirror surface and 
 by innumerable inlets as well, all combine to enthuse and 
 excite the admiration of travelers. 
 
 At Trieste, we first see the Austro-Hungary com- 
 merce, as this is its only port of importance. A city 
 of much business importance, not unattractive in appear- 
 ance, we remained here but long enough to ride out and 
 see the principal point of historical interest, the Castle 
 Marama, owned and once occupied by Maximillian, 
 the ill-fated Mexican emperor, and brother of the reign- 
 ing sovereign of Austria. Here, too, his unfortunate 
 Queen Carlotta lived and was thrown into madness on 
 hearing of the lamentable fate of her husband, who was 
 shot on the charge of conspiracy against the lawful 
 government of Mexico. It is said that, on learning that 
 her every effort, and that of the powerful influence of 
 his brother had been exhausted, but could not save the 
 life of her husband, she grieved herself into a hopeless 
 maniac. She still survives, cared for by tender friends, 
 a raving lunatic, reveling rashly in hallucinations con- 
 cerning her beloved spouse now dead over forty years. 
 
 Ill-fated Maximillian 
 shot in Mexico 
 lived here. 
 
 IOI 
 
ttj 
 
 rt 
 
 < 
 
 8. « 
 
From Trieste, we went to Fiume, and from thence to 
 Abbazia, Austria's seaside resort. To our surprise, we 
 found here a place that rivals Monte Carlo in size and 
 beautiful hotels, but far surpassing it in natural beauty. 
 It is to this place that the aristocracy and royalty of 
 Austro-Hungary come during the spring and summer 
 seasons. 
 
 From here we proceeded to Vienna by way of Buda- 
 pest. We now are in Hungary proper, the largest and 
 richest half of the Austrian empire. Although there is 
 much rich land in Europe, none equals the fertility of 
 the soil upon the great plains of Hungary. 
 
 Budapest, the ancient capitol of the country, lies in 
 the midst of all this fertility (upon the banks of the 
 Danube), one of the most beautiful cities of the world, 
 teeming with a population of 850,000 stirring souls. 
 It is the concensus of opinion by travelers who have 
 visited here, that it ranks in natural beauty of location, 
 cleanliness of streets, architectural beauty of public and 
 private structures among the finest in the world, and 
 perhaps possesses the highest standard of average attrac- 
 tiveness everywhere within its limits, than any other, 
 excepting Athens. Most prominent among the beautiful 
 public buildings are the Palace and its Parliament. The 
 former is upon a high promontory, rising at a height of 
 several hundred feet from the bank of the Danube, of 
 immense size and artistic adornment, of the most beau- 
 tiful character. Set in and surrounded by grounds and 
 extensive gardens extending in gradual slopes down in 
 all directions, a landscape scene of matchless charm is 
 presented as viewed from the city's center. The sad 
 part of it all is that it has not been occupied for nearly 
 a century by the emperors, since the palaces at Vienna 
 and Schonbrunn have attracted their exclusive attention. 
 
 Average beauty cf 
 Budapest excels all 
 cities except 
 Athens. 
 
 103 
 
Hungary seriously 
 inimical to the 
 Empire. 
 
 The public monuments in granite and bronze are more 
 numerous here than elsewhere, commemorating its ora- 
 tors, statesmen and patriots, and distinguished men of 
 arts and sciences. Unlike other cities, we observed no 
 monument to a military hero, evincing a peace loving 
 race, attached more to the refined side of life tban to 
 the gory field of strife. 
 
 That the Hungarian people are inimical to the Aus- 
 trians, and a division of the empire and restoration to 
 its ancient limits in the near future is most probable, 
 was officially published to the world last June, on the 
 sixtieth anniversary jubilee of the reign of Francis 
 Joseph. While but a few sovereigns have reigned so 
 long at any time in history, and the jubilee, of course, 
 supposed to be of special pride and importance to the 
 subjects of the empire, yet, strange to say, that out of 
 the 100,000 participants in the grand procession and 
 pageantry that honored the emperor with their presence, 
 there was not a single Hungarian province, city or organ- 
 isation represented. 
 
 The grievance complained of is, that they do not get 
 their share of imperial favors and are in many ways 
 more or less ignored, as indicated by the one fact alone, 
 that their magnificent palace has not been occupied for 
 over seventy years. 
 
 The parliament buildings and the palace of Justice 
 are conceded to rival any of their kind, the former being 
 a close second to Westminster, the latter equalling the 
 famous Palace of Justice in Brussels. Means of trans- 
 portation are of the best, having electric lines and bustling 
 subways, while the horses and carriages are like their 
 buildings, the subject of municipal control as to style and 
 appearance. Every team and horse for public hire, and 
 vehicle as well, must be of fine appearance and best con- 
 
 104 
 
dition, the violation of which requirement is penalized 
 by an order off the street. This is the only place where 
 official control in this most commendable manner is ex- 
 ercised of which I know. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 The capital of Austria is certainly a beautiful city. 
 It is picturesquely situated upon an arm (Wein) of the 
 Danube, and at the base of an abrupt mountainous cliff, 
 the sides and slopes of which are in high state of cul- 
 tivation, the celebrated Ringstrasse occupying the site 
 of the old fortifications. That part of the city known 
 as the Stadt is the quarter where are found the chief 
 churches, museums, galleries, imperial palaces, elegant 
 stores and fashionable residences of the nobility. The pub- 
 lic and private buildings of interest are so many that even 
 a recital of them, even without description, would prove 
 tiresome to read. The Church of St. Stephens, however, 
 cannot be passed by as one of the finest specimens of 
 Gothic architecture in Europe, the present structure hav- 
 ing been finished in 1433. Excelling in interest St. Ste- 
 phen's is the Capuchin Church, which contains the burial 
 vault, or is in fact the tomb of the imperial family. 
 Here lie entombed in heavy granite or metal sarcophigi 
 more than fifty members of royalty, not the least notice- 
 able being that of the Duke of Reichstadt, son of Napo- 
 leon I, resting here among his maternal ancestors. One 
 would suspect from the appearance of the little weather 
 beaten old structure, a sketch of which is herewith pre- 
 sented, hedged in by dilapidated buildings on either side 
 that it is the sepulchre to which the remains of the royal 
 family of a great empire for centuries have been con- 
 signed and now remain. There is nothing that makes 
 human power and pomp appear so vain and fleeting as to 
 
 King of Rome, son 
 of Napoleon, buried 
 with maternal 
 ancestors. 
 
 105 
 
Capucine Church. 
 Vienna. 
 
 (From our original photograph.) 
 
look upon a carload of dead monarchs and princes like 
 these all resting at last in a simple tomb, reduced to 
 nothingness. 
 
 The H of burg, or Imperial Palace in the centre of the 
 city, the Imperial Museums, rich with their contents of 
 bronzes, mosaics and antiquities of all kinds, Picture 
 Galleries, and the Arsenal, containing military trophies 
 and relics are popular places of visitation by strangers. 
 Among the most conspicuous of the public buildings 
 are the Palace of Justice, the Imperial Museums of natur- 
 al history and art (corresponding to our own Museum 
 of Natural History, but not so large or interesting), 
 the Houses of Parliament, to my mind the finest in 
 Europe, the University, containing a library of 350,000 
 volumes, while other innumerable institutions of interest 
 exist, not the least among which is the public hospital, 
 the largest in Europe, accommodating over 2,200 patients. 
 The famous park is the Prater, being several large 
 estates thrown together, through the center of which 
 runs a boulevard several miles in length, skirted on 
 either side by innumerable cafes and places of amuse- 
 ment. 
 
 The magnificent stores of this brilliant city are the 
 subject of universal admiration, and well might they be, 
 for there are miles of the most beautiful exhibition of 
 all sorts of wares and merchandise in windows of excep- 
 tional attraction. 
 
 Among the hotels of Vienna are to be found many 
 fine ones: the Bristol being among the most fashion- 
 able, and the Kaiserine Elizabeth classed as among the 
 most comfortable. We beg the indulgence of our readers 
 for alluding to a subject of so commonplace nature, but 
 since the hostleries of Austria's great capital are famous 
 for their excellence, as their coffee is distinguished for 
 
 107 
 
Waeram a suburb, 
 but unknown here 
 generally. 
 
 its deliciousness, even a brief account would not be 
 complete without some reference to the subject. 
 
 The suburban points of interest are many and very 
 accessible, the most frequented being Kohlenberg and 
 Leopoldsberg, both of which command very beautiful 
 views of the city and surrounding country. Schonbrunn 
 is really in the city limits, and I should hardly classify 
 it as a suburb any more than Harlem is a suburb of 
 New York. One suburb, however, of Vienna is never 
 spoken of as such in the guide-books, and to most 
 visitors is unknown. It is Wagram, but ten miles away, 
 on the opposite side of the Danube. Here it was that 
 the great battle bearing that name was fought in 1809, 
 by the French under Napoleon, with 90,000 men, and 
 the Austrians under the Archduke Charles, brother of 
 the emperor, with 150,000, the flower of the empire's 
 infantry and cavalry, resulting in one of Napoleon's 
 most glorious triumphs and in Austria's most crushing 
 defeat. Over forty thousand are said to have lost their 
 lives upon this field, French and Austrians in common. 
 
 So historic and far-reaching in its consequences upon 
 the affairs of Europe and the imperial family of Austria 
 was this battle that even it has been the subject of dra- 
 matic exhibition upon the stage by that matchless member 
 of her profession, Maud Adams, in L'Aiglon. As the 
 Duke of Reichstadt, who, that ever witnessed her part, 
 can forget their compassion for the unfortunate son of 
 Napoleon, which, by her genius, was so dramatically ex- 
 cited in scenes occurring upon this famous field and its 
 neighboring palaces. It was the victory here that united 
 the Corsican blood to that of the Hapsburghs. Yet not 
 a monument is found to mark the place ; not even the 
 inhabitants of the plains, where the conflict was waged, 
 
 108 
 
know that it occurred; not a guide in Vienna can direct 
 you how to go there, and I am sure few, if any, ever heard 
 of the battle. 
 
 While in Vienna, it was our special privilege to wit- 
 ness the sixtieth anniversary of the reign of Francis 
 Joseph. Every province and principality, from the Tyro- 
 lean Mountains to the Adriatic Sea, excepting those in 
 Hungary, were represented in the grand procession. 
 
 It was a bright day. The pomp and pageantry exhib- 
 ited in this procession, representing as it did, the ancient 
 customs of the empire, and costumes as well, presented 
 a sight never to be forgotten. As we sat upon a seat, 
 the procession took from ten in the morning till four in 
 the afternoon to pass by the same. All the resources and 
 influence of the empire were exerted to excite and arouse 
 a participation on the part of the nation in this pageantry, 
 and well did they respond to this effort, because over 
 100,000 were said to have marched in the line. Anything 
 like a detailed description of it would lengthen this nar- 
 rative too much. The principal features of interest seem- 
 ingly most prominent were thousands of the descendants 
 of distinguished Austrian ancestors and of the noble fami- 
 lies and princes marching along in the actual uniforms 
 and costumes of their forefathers, and upon their backs 
 and breasts, and in their arms were the same old imple- 
 ments of attack and defense in the wars of the past, 
 which were used by their ancient fathers. Frail, it is 
 true, were many of the old cockades, and hanging almost 
 in strings, many of the old coats and knee breeches, which 
 have been guarded and protected so carefully for ages, 
 but all this lent a charm and originality to the scene 
 which is very seldom witnessed. 
 
 In the procession also were hundreds of the primitive 
 implements of war. The bows and arrows, the sling 
 
 109 
 
Prague ancient 
 center of barbarous 
 priesthood. 
 
 shot appliances operated by heavy machinery for the 
 propulsion of cannon balls before the invention of pow- 
 der; the old sabres and flint-locks and javelins, which 
 in the wars past have been actually used by their ances- 
 tors, were not the least among the interesting sights. 
 There was, however, one dark spot upon this brilliant pic- 
 ture: the Hungarians, though the larger half, and per- 
 haps the richest part of the empire, did not participate. 
 To this we have before alluded and will not repeat it here. 
 It was this omission, no doubt, that caused the aged 
 emperor, high in the esteem of his loyal Austrian sub- 
 jects, great sorrow. 
 
 On our way to Carlsbad, we stopped at Brilnn, an 
 interesting place, celebrated for its factories and its com- 
 mercial activity. A few miles from here lies the little 
 village of Austerlitz. We visited by carriage this field, 
 riding something over fifteen miles through a most beau- 
 tiful, cultivated and fertile country. In preceding chap- 
 ters allusion has already been made to what we saw and 
 discovered here, and hence its repetition is uncalled for. 
 From Briinn we proceeded to Prague, the old, historic 
 and classic centre of the German arts, sciences and liter- 
 ature. One of the oldest, if not the oldest, universities 
 in Europe is here situated, and to this day it is ranked 
 as among the most prosperous and influential in Europe. 
 
 Here it was, that, when the Jews were sorely perse- 
 cuted in and about Jerusalem that they first sought refuge 
 in what to them then was the frontiers of western civiliza- 
 tion. The first synagogue in Europe was built here ; it still 
 remains, a small, dilapidated, but forceful reminder of 
 the early devotion of the persecuted descendants of Abra- 
 ham to the faith of their fathers. 
 
 The great bridge Karlsbriicke, that spans the river 
 
 Moldau, was built during the Middle 
 
 Ages 
 
 with the 
 
 no 
 
money of a Jew, whose life was taken and his property 
 confiscated for the simple offense of his unalterable faith. 
 
 One of the numerous churches here is the Cathedral 
 St. Nicholas, with expensive decorations, the largest in 
 the city. This city, too, was the very centre and hotbed 
 of priestly persecution. No place, it is said, in all 
 Europe, had so strong a hold upon the civil law, and the 
 enforcement of it, for the accomplishment of arbitrary 
 ends by the priesthood, than in Prague, with the result 
 that innumerable instances have occurred here where a 
 sacrifice of human life in its public places has been most 
 appalling. 
 
 From Prague we go to Carlsbad, which is the most 
 celebrated watering place in the world. During the time 
 of the season, which is in July and August, it is said 
 that no less than 75,000 visitors from all over the world 
 are here, a majority of them for the purpose of drinking 
 the waters and taking the cure ; while a very respectable 
 minority are attracted to this beautiful place by reason of 
 the social interest which attaches to it. At the springs 
 in the morning, especially at the Midler, Briinen and the 
 Sprudel, great processions of from five to ten thousand 
 in line of gaily dressed women and neatly dressed men 
 are seen every morning at these springs from seven till 
 nine o'clock. To accommodate such immense crowds to 
 drink the water, they have reduced the method of dis- 
 tribution to a very effective system of several girls hand- 
 ing from the spring itself the glass to the visitors as they 
 move along in rapid succession one after the other. 
 
 The drives and walks about Carlsbad are magnificent. 
 There are over sixty miles of beautifully graded and 
 sanded walks in the fields and on the mountain sides and 
 summits, among the pine and hemlock groves, where 
 thousands of seats have been constructed by the govern- 
 
 From five to ten 
 thousand in line, 
 Carlsbad Springs in 
 early morning. 
 
 Ill 
 
ment at an immense expense. These all contribute to 
 add to one's pleasure at this famous Spa, while the walk- 
 ing exercise, which is probably more conducive to the 
 restoration of the debilitated visitors than the water which 
 they drink is much indulged. 
 
 Prices are higher in Carlsbad than in any other water- 
 ing place which it has been our privilege to visit, and in 
 fact higher than in most of the metropolitan cities of the 
 world. Every facility is here afforded for the pleasure 
 and the health of its patrons. A marked feature of a 
 visitation to Carlsbad by a stranger is that he is obliged 
 to pay a kur tax of $6, if he remains more than one week, 
 for the privilege of remaining there. This money partly 
 is given to the government and partly used for the repair 
 of the walks. 
 
 We will now take our leave of Austria with many 
 pleasant remembrances of our visits in that empire. We 
 found the people to be uniformly courteous and possess- 
 ing a pride of personal appearance excelling their neigh- 
 bors to the north. 
 
 112 
 
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 CHAPTER IX. 
 Germany. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 E have crossed the German frontier and find 
 ourselves in old Dresden, the capital of the 
 kingdom of Saxony, and for centuries the 
 residence of the Saxon sovereigns. In 
 many respects this grand old city is looked 
 upon as the art centre of Europe. It con- 
 tains many statues, beautiful parks and public buildings. 
 The museum is a very handsome edifice, and perhaps 
 the finest example of modern architecture in the city. 
 To the visitor it presents a peculiar appearance, being a 
 wing of the Zivinger, which was constructed by a dis- 
 tinguished architect about 200 years ago. We mention 
 this museum because it is said to contain the most im- 
 portant Dresden collections, and in the same is also the 
 celebrated picture gallery, engravings and drawings. 
 This gallery holds its place among the most famous of 
 the world, as containing some of the finest and most 
 valuable collections. The pride of the Saxons has been 
 so great that for centuries they have expended great 
 sums to acquire numerous masterpieces at different times, 
 among which we find the Sistine Madonna, as far back 
 as the middle of the eighteenth century. 
 
 The Italian painters are very numerously represented 
 here, among others being Raphael, del Sarto and Uber- 
 tini. Around the Sistine Madonna, the production of 
 Raphael, may at all times be seen in this gallery a large 
 crowd of curious observers, in the small room in which 
 
 Dresden Galleries 
 contain many 
 masterpieces of 
 the world. 
 
 113 
 
it is placed. If a visitor did not know the picture, he 
 certainly would be justified in the conclusion that from 
 the curiosity manifested in its inspection that it must be 
 one of great merit and distinction. The magnificence 
 of ths picture consists principally in the tender beauty of 
 the soul expression of the Mother and the Child, com- 
 bined with an affectionate look, typical of that high ideal 
 designed by the artist. It is not so much in the surround- 
 ings of the figures, nor in the coloring of the same which 
 most highly commends it, but the chief interest attaches 
 to the luscious eyes, so beautifully portrayed, of Mother 
 and Child. Here we find also pictures by the great Vene- 
 tian masters and some by the Spanish school, while the 
 Dutch and the German masters are quite numerous. 
 
 Dresden porcelain, as is well known, ranks also among 
 the finest in the world. Curious enough, the principal 
 shops are found in the little side streets where a stranger 
 would imagine that nobody would do business except 
 fruit vendors or shoemakers. Entering one of these shops 
 by accident one day, we were surprised to see on exhibi- 
 
 «j \.u~.,^ tion in a moderate sized room more beautifully and ex- 
 artistic Saxon shows ■> 
 
 his fine wares. quisitely painted porcelain than in any museum which 
 
 we had visited. This shop was owned by a thrifty Saxon, 
 and he personally superintended the manufacture of every 
 piece of porcelain in his small works in the rear of his 
 house, from the clay to the finishing fire. This place was 
 typical of at least a dozen more in the same street. 
 
 Fine music, too, is here found in Dresden. It is a 
 favorite place of resort of Americans in the education 
 of their daughters to acquire proficiency in the arts of 
 painting and in music. 
 
 114 
 
BERLIN. 
 
 From here we go to Berlin, the capital of the Ger- 
 man Empire. This city contains about two millions of 
 inhabitants and possesses a commercial character of im- 
 portance second only to New York and London. 
 
 Everybody has heard of the Unter der Linden, but 
 one is disappointed in seeing it, because its merit is 
 unequal to its reputation. Berlin has many streets, to 
 me, more attractive than this. The city is essentially a 
 German one, strongly exhibited on every hand. It is a 
 city of great distances. You are always looking for cen- 
 tres here, and never finding them. The stores are scat- 
 tered, there being no specialized localities of trade, such 
 as are found in New York and London. Automobiles are 
 a positive nuisance, there being more to the block all 
 over Berlin than in any city I have seen. Municipal 
 government does not seem to interefere either with speed 
 or odor. The result is a constant clattering of wornout 
 machines amidst continuous clouds of smoke. As per- 
 mitting the automobile nuisance, Berlin takes the first 
 place. Its great means of transportation are with foggy 
 automobile trucks, both merchandise and passenger, and 
 this, too, adds to the disagreeableness of this feature of 
 Berlin life. 
 
 It has one magnificent park, ornamented by an unu- 
 sual amount of beautiful white marble statuary, leading 
 from Unter der Linden to the Reichstadt. When beau- 
 tiful statuary in Berlin is alluded to, it must of neces- 
 sity refer to the statuary in its park, for elsewhere it 
 certainly is below the average found in other cities of the 
 world. Its situation is not picturesque. We do not find 
 in it any of those fascinating structures of antiquity, or 
 even of the medieval period. There is one thing that can 
 be said architecturally, however, in its favor, as also can 
 
 Merit of Unter der 
 Linden not equal to 
 its reputation. 
 
 115 
 
Architectural 
 appearance of 
 buildings subject 
 to municipal 
 control. 
 
 be said of all other European cities; the construction of 
 its buildings, their size as to height and architectural 
 design are the subject of municipal control. By this we 
 do not mean an inefficient, passive control, but an active, 
 aggressive supervision, with the result that we find the 
 sky lines right and nothing repulsive to the eye in the 
 general outward lines and appearance of its streets. In 
 this one respect all American cities are sadly deficient. 
 We have grown so fast that now, I am afraid, that it 
 will be long before municipal regulations will, by requir- 
 ing uniformity of construction, remedy the serious defects 
 already apparent in the architectural appearance of our 
 cities. 
 
 The buildings most frequent in Berlin, as is well 
 known, are the University buildings, formerly the palaces 
 of Prince Henry, the Royal Library adjoining the palace 
 of the Emperor William, opposite which is the famous 
 opera house, and the Royal Palace, an imposing struc- 
 ture. Visitors are permitted to visit this palace at stated 
 intervals, and they are well repaid for their time and 
 trouble by the exhibition therein of a beautiful picture 
 gallery ; then there is the Royal Museum, the finest build- 
 ing in Berlin, in the Greek style, and approaching which, 
 you go up a broad flight of steps. Its vestibule con- 
 tains marble statues of celebrated Germans. The collec- 
 tions in the old museum in the gallery of antiquities were 
 principally obtained by Frederick the Great, who pur- 
 chased at an immense sum, it is said, the collection of 
 Cardinal Polignac at Rome. 
 
 We might go on enumerating the various places of 
 prominence in Berlin which we visited, but to no useful 
 purpose. The Broadway of Berlin is Freidrich Strasse, 
 which runs nearly due north and south, and it is the 
 longest street, being, however, only two miles in length. 
 
 116 
 
Imperial suburb. 
 
 Americans are always looking for a Broadway or Fifth 
 Avenue in the great cities of the world, but we never 
 find them, nor anything anywheres approaching them in 
 size and importance. 
 
 From Berlin, the beautiful excursion was taken to 
 Potsdam, a suburb of the city, about as far as Yonkers 
 from New York. This place is beautiful in the extreme. 
 It is where the emperor's palaces are located and where 
 they have been for many centuries of the reigning sov- 
 ereigns of Germany. 
 
 Here we find the old palace of San Souci, built by 
 Frederick the Great, the favorite resort of that, the most 
 distinguished of German monarchs. It stands on an emi- 
 nence, commanding as beautiful a view, perhaps, as any 
 palace in the world. The orangery of this palace — in 
 the Florentine style — is celebrated for its beauty. We 
 also find at Potsdam the new palace, founded by Fred- 
 erick the Great, in 1763, after the termination of the 
 seven years' war, and is now the summer residence of 
 the present emperor. The apartments are decorated in 
 the cold and unattractive German style, and not as beau- 
 tiful as those of San Souci. 
 
 LEIPSIC. 
 
 From Berlin we proceed to Leipsic, a more interest- 
 ing city historically, and beautifully architecturally. Leip- 
 sic, like Dresden, has for centuries been a great centre 
 of German art and science ; it contains one of the greatest 
 universities in the world. It has unquestionably the fin- 
 est palace of justice to be found anywhere, while its 
 parks are indescribably charming. 
 
 Leipsic is the centre of the book trade for Germany, 
 it having, to its credit, it is said, the largest book pub- 
 lishing house in the world. Here is to be found many 
 
 117 
 
illustrations of the processes used in the production of 
 books, from the earlest time to the present, including 
 binding, engraving and cuttings. A very unusual 
 exhibition. 
 
 It was here, in 1813, that one of the greatest battles 
 in history was fought, between the French, under Napo- 
 leon, on the one side, and the Germans and the Russians, 
 on the other. The French were in possession of the city, 
 their chief division being about a mile to the east of the 
 walls; the enemy was to the west and south of the city. 
 The numbers opposed to the French were two to one, and 
 it is said that this is the first pitched battle in which the 
 great Napoleon did not win a decisive victory, or at 
 least, met with a repulse. A great monument is being 
 erected by the Germans to commemorate the battle ; when 
 completed, it will not commemorate the first defeat of 
 Napoleon, as, from a military point, all authorities are 
 agreed that it was a simple repulse — a drawn battle, as 
 it were. Sufficient ground, however, exists to justify an 
 unfavorable construction by the Germans upon the issue 
 of the conflict, and thus they are willing to erect the 
 monument. 
 
 Near by is an interesting museum, containing all sorts 
 of relics of the battle. 
 
 We now leave Leipsic and proceed to Weimar. 
 Visiting the country Among the most interesting places visited in Germany 
 
 of Luther. is what is called the Lutheran country, in which are the 
 
 cities of Weimer, Ehrfut and Witenberg. Weimer, as 
 is well known, was the literary centre of Germany during 
 the eighteenth and most of the nineteenth centuries. It 
 was here where the great Goethe lived and wrote and 
 made it famous. Schiller, his companion and literary 
 star, also lived here, both under the patronage of Augus- 
 tus, the Duke of Weimer, whose grand old library, con- 
 
 118 
 
taining over 200,000 volumes in a wing of the beautiful 
 antiquated palace, attests the literary taste of its former 
 occupant. 
 
 At IVitenberg is seen the old church still standing with 
 its pulpit, in which Martin Luther preached, and upon 
 the doors of which old relic of worship the celebrated 
 Thesis were published, fastened there by the hand of 
 Luther in defiance of papal authority, that the benighted 
 
 but honest neighbors, might read in plain language the Most famous tree in 
 doctrines of the Bible and its teachings ; also that light history, 
 might be shed upon the true principles of piety and Chris- 
 tian religion. Here, too, is the old oak tree, under which 
 the Pope's bull was burned. This tree, by this act, was 
 made the most famous in the world, and we take pleasure 
 in introducing herein a drawing of its venerable appear- 
 ance. The old university in which Luther taught, lectured 
 and wrote, is still here, and the house that he occupied, 
 with its old garden, in which he walked forth, com- 
 muning with his God and preparing those masterpieces 
 of religious thought, which are the foundation of the 
 third greatest Protestant religion in Christendom, from 
 a numerical point of view. 
 
 At Eisenach we found a beautiful city, ensconced 
 amidst soft mountain scenery and in a richly cultivated 
 country, over which the ancient Wartburg Castle towers 
 in the distance, with its beautiful lines. Here, too, we 
 are still treading in the pathway of the young Luther, 
 while studying for the priesthood, and are able to visit 
 the old house in which he, nearly four hundred years 
 ago, boarded with Frau Cotter, whose beneficence en- 
 abled him to continue his priestly studies. The room in 
 which he studied and slept is still there, with some of 
 its old furniture. The castle upon the hill where he was 
 protected from his enemies by his friend, the proprietor 
 
 119 
 
mm 
 
 0g& 
 
 Famous tree under which Pope's Bull was burned. 
 
 Wittenberg. 
 
 (Prom our original photograph.) 
 (See page 119.) 
 
of the same, contains his room, overlooking a broad ex- 
 panse of beautiful country, with many relics. of his. 
 
 Ehrfut we found to be a splendid city. The old pal- 
 ace in which the International Congress of Europe was 
 held, presided over by Napoleon the Great, still exists. 
 It was at this celebrated conference at which all the 
 princes and sovereigns of Europe attended to agree upon 
 terms of peace and to settle troublesome questions then 
 agitating the continent. 
 
 Heidelberg is overrated as a university town. Greater 
 universities exist in Leipsic, Dresden, Konigsburg and 
 many other cities in Germany, more ancient, better organ- 
 ized, larger and with a superior list of distinguished 
 patrons to their credit, than that of Heidelberg. 
 
 It is the savage indulgence in the sword contest of the 
 students which has directed the attention of the world 
 to it as a university, more than its learning, a practice 
 not indulged by the others. The old castle there is beau- 
 tiful, but not more so than a hundred others of similar 
 character in the German empire. 
 
 Contest of the 
 sword, not learning, 
 has given Heidel- 
 berg its reputation. 
 
 121 
 
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CHAPTER X. 
 
 Poland. 
 
 HIS country, during the middle ages and up 
 to within a comparatively short period ago, 
 was one of the most powerful and largest 
 kingdoms of Europe. By reason of its 
 internal dissensions its strength became 
 less, and gradually it fell pray to the 
 rapacity of its Russian neighbor on the north and east, 
 the Germans and Austrians on the west and south. It 
 finally lost more than half of its territory, and in the end 
 was reduced so low in its power of self defense that its 
 individuality as a kingdom was lost, and it is to-day but 
 a menial province of the Russian Empire. Of all the 
 countries of Europe, Poland has the saddest history. Its 
 people, whose national pride excel any other except the 
 Greeks, have suffered political humiliation such as has 
 befallen no other modern power in the world. On visit- 
 ing old Warsaw, once the capital of the kingdom, I saw 
 on every hand evidence of its former glory in the 
 innumerable palaces now disused. That it has a great 
 history is apparent also from the presence there of many 
 old statues in bronze and granite of its patriots, states- 
 men, literary men and warriors. Copernicus is honored 
 with one of the most beautiful monuments, and the old 
 house in which he lived, and the observatory in which he 
 surveyed the heavens, for his astronomical maps are 
 pointed out, a sketch of which is herewith presented. 
 That it is now the home of some of the greatest musical 
 artists of the age is proved by the fact that here Pader- 
 ewski and the De Reskeys reside. 
 
 Poland, once 
 greatest of king- 
 doms, now menial 
 province. 
 
 123 
 
Family name ending 
 in "ski" indicates 
 noble origin. 
 
 Paderewski has erected the Hotel Bristol, which ranks 
 among the best in Europe. He gives its management 
 much personal attention, and he has endeavored to pop- 
 ularize it on the lines of an American hostlery, and has 
 succeeded. The old capital has a population of about 
 800,000, its modern half being most attractive. The 
 theatres are run on the restaurant cafe plan, never seen 
 elsewhere. It costs nothing to enter, but the fee is large 
 enough after settlement of the refreshment bill you are 
 expected to incur, service upon you being at your seat. 
 The number of Jews there is not larger than in any other 
 city of like size in Europe. Somehow a false impression 
 prevails that a Pole is a Hebrezv. This is not so. The 
 native Pole is a Christian. They are proud of their 
 ancestral blood. The family names ending in "ski" 
 indicate noble origin. It was the habit of its kings when 
 creating nobles of the realm to add a "ski" to their names 
 as the title of their nobility. Not a Hebrew in Poland 
 or elsewhere has a "ski" to his name, except as it has 
 been added in the modern change of his name. The 
 greatest sight I saw when there was a division of 5,000 
 Cossack cavalry marching through the streets. Mounted 
 on prancing horses of great size, they presented a picture 
 original and interesting in the extreme. Rather stout 
 in stature and light in weight, they were positively the 
 most hideous exhibition of savage nature and appearance 
 as a body of men I ever witnessed. Their skins were 
 bronzed to a copper color by continuous exposure to the 
 sun without hats, while their hair was cropped short, 
 except over their ears great bunches of it allowed to 
 accumulate, so that they looked like horned devils, To 
 intensify still greater the weirdness of the scene, each 
 company of one hundred sang a Russian war hymn, end- 
 ing with Cossack yell. As soon as the first company fin- 
 
 124 
 
ished, the second would take it up throughout the line, 
 thus making it a continuous song as the division passed 
 a given point. 
 
 The Cossacks, I learned, are the backbone of the 
 empire; the ones most relied upon to faithfully obey the 
 imperial command and influence the balance of the army 
 to follow suit out of sheer fear of their prowess. They 
 are born and reared in a remote northern province as a 
 warlike race, having been used to the hardships of the 
 battle field from choice of occupation for centuries. 
 
 We cannot refrain from stating the surprise experi- 
 enced when I observed the change that has taken place 
 here in the last one hundred years in some of its palaces. 
 
 In one I visited, there was still the old structure, not 
 in ruin, but converted to business uses. It was this pal- 
 ace in the city which Napoleon occupied when here. At 
 the great entrance then stood sentinels in heavy armor 
 with cannon and sabres of bristling steel. Now, however, 
 this has changed, and instead of steel moulded into gun 
 and sword, guarding its portals, we found these imple- 
 ments of war displaced by the plow and harrow, tools 
 of the soil. The court is occupied now by merchants 
 following the peaceful occupation of commerce and trade, 
 not by troops of war. The harrow was of the LaDow 
 "disc" pattern, invented by a distinguished American 
 inventor, whom it was my privilege once to represent 
 professionally in a legal contest over its mechanical con- 
 struction. 
 
 Cossacks a warlike 
 race, backbone of 
 
 Empire. 
 
 125 
 
Lucerne favorite 
 center of visitors. 
 
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 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Switzerland. 
 
 N Switzerland we find that we are in the 
 international European summer resort, 
 whose art it is and has been for centuries, 
 to entertain visitors in hotels and pensions. 
 The Swiss have acquired the highest per- 
 fection of their art, unequalled by any com- 
 petitors in the world. Attracted here by its magnificent 
 scenery of mountains, snow and lake and its cool and 
 healthy climate, strangers will repeat their visits to this 
 country, more than any other place in Europe. Lucerne 
 seems to be the centre to which the great masses grav- 
 itate, because of its matchless beauty and the unequalled 
 facilities that it affords for the entertainment of visitors 
 of all classes. The Ax en Strasse, along Lake Lucerne, 
 is justly celebrated among the finest, if not the most 
 beautiful drive in the world ; cradled, as it is, along the 
 base of a great mountain high up above the lake, there 
 is a constant panoramic scene before the eye of towering 
 mountains covered with eternal snow and ice, with their 
 sloping sides, cultivated fields, while at your feet is a 
 soft and placid lake which in natural charm defies descrip- 
 tion. From this point many excursions are made, being 
 accessible to mountain railways, by which one is able 
 to scale the summit of Mt. Pilatus, looming up over two 
 miles and a half, and the Riggi, nearly as high, over the 
 tops of which a panoramic scene in all directions is pre- 
 sented, surpassing in interest and grandeur anything in 
 Europe. Upon its streets everybody you know in Europe 
 you meet, as it seems to be the one common assembling 
 
 126 
 
ground. In a short interval I had the pleasure of meet- 
 ing a United States Senator, some prominent acquaint- 
 ances west of the Mississippi, a distinguished citizen of 
 Albany, whom it has been my pleasure to know for years, 
 some friends from the East, not heard of before, in years, 
 a distinguished presiding justice of the Appellate Divi- 
 sion of the Supreme Court, with his charming wife, beau- 
 tiful daughter and other members of his family, and 
 many more. Those whom I have mentioned, I have taken 
 the liberty of doing so, simply as illustrating an interest- 
 ing fact in the life of Lucerne, to wit: that it is one of 
 the most cosmopolitan places in Europe and a place where 
 everybody goes. 
 
 Interlaken, too, is a popular place, not so large as 
 Lucerne. It is the centre, however, for excursions to 
 finer scenery, prominent among which in the immediate 
 vicinity is Grindezvall and Lauterbrunen. Here the great 
 "Eiger," the "Jung" Frau" and the "Bright Horn" are 
 interlinked, the mammoth Leviathans of the Alps, whose 
 feet are stockinged with the softest verdure and whose 
 heads are hooded with eternal caps of snow and ice. The 
 beautiful Lauterbrunen valley, unquestionably the finest 
 in Europe, four miles long and half a mile wide, walled 
 up on its sides with mighty precipices over half a mile 
 high, down which tumbles eighteen cascades, banked up 
 to the south with the snow of the "Bright Horn," car- 
 peted with velvet green, presents a charm of natural 
 scenery never to be forgotten, when once observed on a 
 bright summer's day. Other places of interest were 
 visited, such as Muren and Zermatt, great places each, 
 partaking of the general features of wild Swiss scenery. 
 The unusual pleasure of a ride over the Simp Ion in a 
 carriage cannot be passed by without special notice. Un- 
 like the others, the Simplon presents softness of scenery 
 
 Lauterbrunen, 
 gem of Swiss 
 scenery. 
 
 127 
 
on the Swiss side and awful grandeur on the Italian, 
 surpassing in combination even the Spleugen. 
 
 Here, too, we find an exhibition of the resourceful 
 genius of Napoleon, for he it was who built this great 
 road, contending upon the Italian side against apparently 
 impossible obstacles, greater perhaps than any that have 
 as yet challenged, but not frustrated the skill of the engi- 
 neer. Far up on, and out of the towering cliff of granite 
 as we emerged from these terrible walls of rock, a sombre 
 figure with folded arms was cut in bold relief, and frown- 
 ing with imperial majesty down upon us from the dizzy 
 heights above. It was the master builder of the Simplon, 
 whose civic fame is equal to his military glory. 
 
 128 
 
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