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SOME 
 
 SUMMER DAYS ABROAD 
 
 WILLIAM STEVENS PERRY, 
 
 Bishop of Iowa. 
 
 
 Davenport, Iowa : 
 CHARLES G. PLUM ME R 
 
 1SS0. 
 
 
I THE LIBRARY! 
 jOf CONGRESS 
 
 JWA 
 
 WASHINGTON 
 
 Copyright by W. S. Perry, 1880. 
 
 
 ^;l 
 
 Globe Printing Company, Davenport, Ioiva. 
 
T O 
 
 SARA A. W. PERRY: 
 
 The best of Wives and the best of Travelers 
 
 these sketches of 
 
 DAYS SPENT TOGETHER ABROAD 
 
 ARE INSCRIBED. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 I. Chester, - - - 3 
 
 II. Lichfield, ... 20 
 
 III. Rugby and Coventry, - - 30 
 
 IV. Kenilworth and Warwick, 39 
 V. Stratford-upon-Avon, - - 49 
 
 VI. Oxford, - 55 
 
 VII. London, 73 
 
 VIII. Canterbury, - 81 
 
 IX. Lambeth, - 93 
 
 X. The Members of the Confer- 
 ence, - - - - in 
 
 XL The Charterhouse, - - 127 
 
 XII. The Lord Mayor's Dinner. 136 
 
 XIII. Lincoln and Riseholme, - 145 
 
 XIV. Ely, ------ 151 
 
 XV. Cambridge, - 157 
 
 XVI. Kensington Palace and the 
 
 Savoy, - - - - 174 
 
 XVIL Westminster Abbey, - 182 
 
 XVIII. London Streets and London 
 
 Sights, - 198 
 
 XIX. The Closing Days, - - 208 
 
"/« Summer, making quest for works of art, 
 Or scenes renowned for beauty 
 
 — Wordsworth, The Prelude. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 It is in compliance with the request of 
 friends that these sketches, written amidst the 
 scenes they describe, and intended as a record 
 of most happy and profitable days abroad, are 
 now re-issued from the columns of the daily 
 and diocesan newspapers, where they origin- 
 ally appeared. That they contain an account 
 of the Second Lambeth Conference of Bishops 
 in communion with the Church of England, 
 may give them a value they could not other- 
 wise claim. Such as they are, they are pub- 
 lished, as they were written, for the pleasure 
 of the author and his friends. 
 
SOME SUMMER DAYS ABROAD, 
 
 CHESTER. 
 
 UCH as one may enjoy life on the ocean, the 
 change from the broad, blue expanse of the 
 Atlantic, to the green-sward and shaded lanes 
 and by-ways, and the luxuriant hedge-rows and 
 fields of England, is inspiring. No one would 
 linger in Liverpool, with its ceaseless whirl of 
 busy industries and its deafening roar of traffic, 
 longer than to gather up one's luggage ; pass the 
 brief investigations of the courteous officers of 
 the Customs ; and hurry through the crowded 
 streets to the station where the journey inland 
 
4 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 is begun. Declining the honor of a public 
 reception, tendered by the Archdeacon of Liv- 
 erpool, who met us at the landing-stage despite 
 the pouring rain ; and leaving for others the 
 speeches and "toasts" of a u breakfast," to 
 which clergy and others had gathered near-by, 
 we speedily reached the Lime-street Station, of 
 the Northwestern railway, and were soon pass- 
 ing swiftly from spot to spot familiar to us from 
 past acquaintance, but as fresh and beautiful as 
 if never seen before. At once began that agree- 
 able but startling revival of historic memories 
 which enters so constantly into one's enjoyment 
 abroad, as a station so familiar by name as 
 "Edgehill" was passed, beautiful in its robe of 
 verdure, and, save by name, giving no trace 
 of the bloody struggle, two centuries and more 
 ago, between Cavalier and Roundhead, when 
 the history of the English race was changed by 
 the issue of the fight. Station after station, 
 embowered in flowers and climbing shrubs 
 each neat and attractive in its style and keep- 
 ing, were swiftly left behind ; and almost ere 
 we were aware, we had penetrated beneath the 
 old Roman wall, and were within the "rare 
 old city of Chester." 
 
Chester. 5 
 
 Liverpool, with its hundreds of thousands 
 of inhabitants, with its boundless wealth, and 
 known all over the habitable world as a vast 
 commercial centre, is but a town. It is not yet 
 — though it will soon be, in the coming exten- 
 sion of the English episcopate — a Bishop's see 
 and seat. Chester, with but tens of thousands, 
 and only known at all abroad from its past, is 
 a city ; and it is the Bishop's seat and Church 
 which makes it so. 
 
 It was Whit-Tuesday, and flags were unfurled 
 from public buildings and houses, and hung 
 across the crooked, narrow streets ; while every 
 one was in holiday spirits and attire. Whit- 
 Monday and Whit-Tuesday are festivals of uni- 
 versal observance in England ; and the city 
 was filled with excursionists and citizens, each 
 and all in quest of amusements suited to their 
 respective tastes. It was a long train of pleas- 
 ure-seekers that was drawn into Chester-station 
 this June morning of mingled showers and sun- 
 shine, but none of the merry throngs were more 
 glad to arrive than our little party of pilgrims 
 from the new world, reverently approaching the 
 threshold of a city dating its origin back to the 
 days of fable, and boasting an authentic history 
 
6 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 of near two thousand years. Hurrying between 
 the rain drops we were soon rattling over the 
 stones of Foregate street, a part of the old Wat- 
 ling street of the Romans, and trodden by heel 
 and hoof ever since the very first Whitsuntide 
 of the Apostles' days. Passing beneath the 
 Eastgate, the porta principalis of the city, 
 we were welcomed by our kind hostesses at 
 the Grosvenor House, a model English inn, and 
 in our comfortable apartments found rest and 
 needed refreshments. It was not long before 
 we were threading our way through the sloppy 
 streets and crooked by-ways leading to the 
 Cathedral of St. Werburgh, which, though sur- 
 passed in grandeur and size by many of the 
 Cathedrals of our Mother Church, is still inex- 
 pressably dear to American hearts, not only 
 because it is the first their eyes look out upon, 
 but also from the loving interest felt by so many 
 comers from the new world in the very Rev- 
 erend Dean of Chester, Dr. J. S. Howson, whose 
 famous work on "The Life and Times of St. 
 Paul," is found in almost every American Chris- 
 tian's home, and whose visit a few years since, 
 at the time of our General Convention in Balti- 
 more, left impressions never to be effaced. 
 
Chester. 7 
 
 The see of Chester was founded in 1541, 
 prior to which time the present Cathedral had 
 been the Benedictine church of St. Werburgh. 
 There were Norman bishops of Chester, but 
 their Cathedral was the Church of St. John the 
 Baptist, the romantic ruins of which we visited 
 at night-fall, when the ravages of a thousand 
 years seen in the worn smooth stones and 
 crumbling buttresses, arches, pinnacles and 
 tower, gave to this venerable pile a striking 
 beauty impossible to describe. The Church of 
 St. Werburgh was begun in the year 1095 by 
 Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chester*; and kinsman of 
 William the Conqueror, with the co-operation 
 of Anselm, immediately before his appointment 
 to the see of Canterbury. Eight hundred busy 
 years have passed, and yet some of the Norman 
 arches placed in solid masonry, under the foun- 
 der's eye, are still to be seen, and we gazed 
 reverently upon these indisputable links con- 
 necting the Church of our love and membership 
 to-day — Christ's Holy Catholic Church, against 
 which the gates of hell have never prevailed — 
 with the Church of Anselm, Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, in the age of the Norman conquest, 
 not forgetting that tradition claims that this Nor- 
 
8 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 man structure occupied the site of a Roman 
 temple of Apollo, which in turn had replaced 
 a still older shrine of the Druids. The Cathe- 
 dral Church of St. Werburgh is cruciform, as is 
 the case with all Cathedrals and many parochial 
 churches as well, the massive and weather beaten 
 square tower, built on solid Norman piers rising 
 above the intersection of the transepts with the 
 nave. The north transept contains the Norman 
 work of Hugh Lupus, remaining where it was 
 placed eight hundred years ago. The choir with 
 the "Lady-chapel," now exquisitely restored, 
 and in fact the' whole eastern portion of the 
 Cathedral is of Early English architecture : the 
 rest is Decorated with Perpendicular alterations 
 and additions. Thus the architectural details of 
 the church tell with no uncertainty the periods 
 of its gradual completion, which occupied four 
 centuries. In the year in which America was 
 discovered, Abbot Simon Ripley, whose initials 
 appear on the capitals of some of the lofty 
 columns in the nave, virtually completed the 
 Cathedral as it stands to-day. Slight alterations 
 and improvements were subsequently made ; 
 one of the cross-beams of the massive oaken 
 roof still exhibiting the armorial bearings of 
 
Chester. 9 
 
 Cardinal Wolsey, but from the death of Ripley 
 to the present day when good Dean Howson 
 undertook the work of restoration, on which 
 nearly half a million of dollars have been spent, 
 this noble shrine has been practically unchanged. 
 At our first pilgrimage to S*t. Werburgh's 
 shrine, three years ago, only the cold, gray nave 
 was open for the daily prayers ; but now the 
 work of restoration had so far progressed that 
 the glorious choir, with its almost unrivaled oak 
 carvings above, around, beneath the "stalls" 
 and " throne, 1 ' was opened for service, and we 
 said our prayers at evening amidst the surpliced 
 clergy and choristers, with a goodly number of 
 the faithful. It was not a little startling to have 
 the melody of choral song, in which the service 
 was exquisitely rendered, interrupted by the 
 clear and emphatic announcement by the Dean, 
 ere the prayer of General Thanksgiving was 
 sung, that " Bishop and Mrs. Stevens Perry de- 
 sire to return thanks for a safe voyage across 
 the Atlantic." The thanks were heartily and 
 gratefully offered up, and as we rose from our 
 knees at the close of this simple but most beau- 
 tiful service, we were not surprised to find a 
 fellow-voyager at our side, himself for the first 
 
io Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 time in a Cathedral and not at all acquainted 
 with the Church's ways, tearfully confessing to a 
 companion who was hardly less affected, that it 
 was the most impressive service he had ever 
 attended. As the white-robed procession of 
 choristers and clergy, preceded by the Beadle 
 with his silver mace, moved slowly out of the 
 choir, it was an unexpected pleasure to grasp 
 the hand of the good Bishop of Western New 
 York, Dr. Arthur Cleveland Coxe, to whom our 
 presence among the throng of worshippers was 
 made known by the public announcement of our 
 request for prayers. After this meeting of long- 
 parted friends, doubly pleasant in a foreign land, 
 the Dean joined us and was our most interesting 
 and instructive guide, as we devoted the hours 
 of closing day to an examination of the restora- 
 tions and additions of the past three years. 
 
 It is in the Choir and Sanctuary that all the 
 resources of decorative art have been brought 
 by man, to make glorious the shrine of his God. 
 The choir-screen of oak elaborately carved, 
 separates from the somewhat cold and cheerless 
 nave the " stalls " on either side, crowned with 
 oaken canopies of richest tracery, and reveals 
 the Bishop's Throne springing from the pedes- 
 
Chester. i'i 
 
 tal of St. Werburgh's shrine, with even richer 
 ■elaboration in its wonderful lightness and grace- 
 fulness of decorated carving. The very seats of 
 the stalls, or misericordice, so arranged as to 
 -afford a slight rest during the long " hours" 
 -of mediaeval worship, and yet to betray to his 
 •downfall the incautious occupant who might 
 lean too heavily against them as he sought to 
 catch a moment's sleep during his devotions, are 
 carved with a beauty and grotesqueness which 
 gives them especial interest. One portrays with 
 remarkable expression the first quarrel of a new- 
 ly-married couple. On another the adversary of 
 souls, under the guise of a lion, is devouring a 
 sinner bodily ; while on still another, as a 
 dragon, he has the offender partly swallowed 
 with his legs hanging out of his jaws. Queer 
 fantasies, which like the impish gargoyles and 
 grinning apes that appear elsewhere in these 
 Cathedrals, tell of a vein of humor even in these 
 sombre men of old ! The Altar, exquisitely 
 carved, and composed of woods brought from 
 holy land, is approached by a gradual ascent of 
 tessellated pavements, and is surmounted by the 
 two altar-lights which symbolize the two natures 
 of our Lord. Above it rises a magnificent rere- 
 
12 Soinc Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 dos of Venetian mosaics, while around, above, 
 behind are the springing arches of massive stone, 
 gracefully carved in all the varied patterns of 
 the Decorated style of architecture, supporting 
 the vaulted roof, which, with its adornments of 
 color and gilding, as Hawthorne well describes 
 it, " like a pavillion of the sunset, all purple and 
 gold," makes most beautiful in all its appoint- 
 ments the House of God. It is indeed holy 
 ground where we stand and kneel to say and 
 sing the prayers and praises said and sung by 
 our common ancestors since St. Werburgh, 
 daughter of the Mercian king in the old days 
 of Briton's first conversion to the faith of Christ, 
 gave herself to the religious life and won a 
 name and fame by her lowly, loving, serving of 
 Christ, which shall never die. Century after 
 century since has left its traces that she "being 
 dead yet speaketh ;" and, honoring her as she 
 in her life of Christian devotion honored her 
 Master, Christ, the faithful have with holy hands 
 piled up "these stones for a memorial." 
 
 But words fail to describe a Cathedral ; or to 
 give intelligibly the impressions of the Cathe- 
 dral service as the sweet solemn tones of choral 
 song went up and up towards the lofty roof, 
 
Chester. 13 
 
 filling with sacred melody every portion of this 
 vast structure. Again and again during our 
 resti rig-days at Chester did we seek the Cathe- 
 dral for the charm and comfort of the daily 
 matins and evensong, and the memory of the 
 satisfaction and pleasure afforded by these ser- 
 vices will not ever pass away. 
 
 Passing from the Cathedral as the twilight 
 deepened, we lingered for a moment to look in 
 upon the Chapter House, with its library of 
 worm-eaten tomes, and then retracing our steps 
 through the vaulted cloisters which enclose a 
 square of England's green-sward, we entered the 
 old Refectory, nearly a hundred feet in length, 
 with its reader's pulpit whence some homily or 
 legend of the saints was read during the homely 
 meal in the old monastic days. Across the 
 narrow passage was the Bishop's Palace, now 
 used for the King's Grammar School, and the 
 spacious Deanery which had been our plea- 
 sant home at our last visit to Chester. Thus on 
 every side were the memorials of the Church's 
 hold upon the very soil of this old Cathedral 
 City ; and with shrine and sepulchre, with col- 
 lege and cathedral, with the House of God and 
 the homes of His faithful servants grouped 
 
14 Some Slimmer Days Abroad. 
 
 around the holy place in picturesque array, we 
 felt as we had never felt before the power and 
 strength of the Mother Church of the English- 
 speaking race, — the Church of our membership 
 and love ! 
 
 Turning from the Cathedral and its solemn, 
 sacred associations, a few steps through the 
 crooked, narrow, and crowded streets, brought 
 us to the "Rows." We had seen something of 
 the kind at Berne, in Switzerland, but still the 
 Chester " rows " are unique. All along the 
 principal streets, Foregate, Eastgate, Watergate, 
 Northgate, and Bridge streets, by Pepper Alley, 
 and beside portions of the city walls, the travel- 
 ler's footway lies directly through the first-floor 
 fronts of the houses, at a height of several feet 
 above the level of the carriage-way, so that one 
 can shop, or walk, or lounge from street to street 
 without ever passing from under cover of the 
 projecting second-storys, save at the street cross- 
 ings, or where modern structures have replaced 
 this novel peculiarity of old-time architecture. 
 Posts springing from the ground level of these 
 " rows " support the overhanging houses which 
 thus cover and encase the foot-passenger's path ; 
 while the shops at the one side, and the booths 
 
 
Chester. 15 
 
 and stalls of less pretentions salesmen at the 
 other, give to his walks among these " rows " 
 a novelty nowhere else to be had. One can 
 "shop" undeterred by the drenching rain which 
 at the time of our visit poured day after day 
 from the heavy clouds above ; and even in the 
 bright sunshine which we have at other visits 
 seen in Chester, there is here a refuge from the 
 glare and heat which can never penetrate these 
 labyrinthal ways. 
 
 But even the "rows" are lost sight of in 
 comparison with the city walls. As Hawthorne 
 well says, '•' there is not a more curious place in 
 the world," than this old-time city, and of Ches- 
 ter's curiosities certainly the walls may claim 
 the foremost place. A stroll about these walls 
 by moonlight or sunlight, for we tried both, 
 carries one back full two thousand years. The 
 Romans replaced, with their solid masonry, the 
 rude mud-walls and simple earth-works of the 
 Britons ; and this was done at the very begin- 
 ning of the era named and dated from Christ. 
 When the conquerors of the world retired from 
 this distant outpost of the Empire, these mass- 
 ive fortifications were left unharmed, and since 
 that clav of British independence the tide of 
 
16 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 battle has surged again and again about these 
 barriers of stone, defiant alike of the assaults of 
 time or man. Britons and Romans, Picts and 
 Goths, Saxons and Danes, Normans and Welsh, 
 have met in bloody conflict at numberless points 
 of the promenade, into which this ancient de- 
 fence has been transformed. During the various 
 civil struggles of England these solid fortifica- 
 tions have seen the adherents of York and Lan- 
 caster, Roundhead and Cavalier, fighting to the 
 death on either side. At the Castle which dates 
 its origin back to the days of Alfred, if tradition 
 is to be believed, King Richard II. was confined 
 a prisoner in 1399 ; while from the Phoenix 
 Tower, a sightly outlook on these broad walls, 
 King Charles I. witnessed the defeat of his army, 
 at Rowton Heath, about two miles from the 
 city. From another point St. John's Church, 
 with its lofty, but time-worn tower, and the 
 Bishop's palace, where the learned Dr. Jacoo- 
 son, the present incumbent of the see resides, 
 are seen ; while a little further on the eye takes 
 in the charming river Dee, with the "Roodeye" 
 meadow where the athletic sports and games of 
 the Romans, the jousts of chivalry, the pageants 
 and plays of mediaeval days, and the less stately 
 
Chester. 17 
 
 sports of modern times, have each in turn found 
 place. In fact, the whole promenade of fully 
 two miles in length, along these relics of Roman 
 and early English times, affords at every turn a 
 panorama of beauty and interest rarely excelled. 
 The old houses of Chester are remarkable 
 for their half-timber fronts, with sharp gables 
 and quaint carvings. Near the Watergate is 
 that ancient hostelry, the Yacht Inn, itself one 
 •of the quaint oaken-ribbed taverns ot England's 
 historic past, and interesting to Americans as 
 the place where the eccentric and witty Dean 
 Swift stopped on one of his journeyings to and 
 from Ireland. Enraged at the failure of the 
 Cathedral dignitaries to accept his invitation 
 to dine with him at his Inn, he scratched upon 
 the window pane a distich not over-flattering to 
 the city or the clergy, which is still preserved. 
 Returning towards the Grosvenor Inn, one can- 
 not fail to notice the stately Palace of the Bish- 
 ops of Chester, known as Bishop Lloyd's House. 
 Grotesquely carved from the very apex of the 
 gable to the level of the "row," this unique 
 specimen of seventeenth century domestic arch- 
 itecture exhibits a profusion of ornament and 
 •excentricity of design nowhere else to be seen. 
 
1 8 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 The story of our redemption is carved all along 
 the panneled front, while the quarterings of the 
 Bishop's and his Monarch's arms, with the date 
 of the prelate's death, adorn the centre of this 
 strange, unique facade. Still further on is the 
 famous " God's Providence House,'' the home, 
 if family tradition is to be believed, of one of 
 the writer's ancestors, who, to commemorate 
 the fact that this house alone in Chester was 
 spared at the visitation of the plague, which rav- 
 aged the city during the seventeenth century, 
 had carved on an oaken cross-beam, still bearing 
 its grateful legend, the words — 
 
 1652. God's Providence is mine inheritance. 1652. 
 
 Elsewhere is the old Palace of the Stanley fam- 
 ily, elaborately carved, and bearing on its front 
 the date of its erection — 1591 ; and the grand 
 old mansion now the u Bear and Billet" tavern, 
 which was formerly the residence of the Earls 
 of Shrewsbury, when they visited the city of 
 Chester. Strikingly picturesque must have been 
 this old-time city ere the tasteless architecture 
 of modern days invaded the long rows of half- 
 timber fronts, with their sharp gables and pin- 
 nacles, making ever)' street a study and every 
 home unique. 
 
Chester. 19 
 
 But we might go on indefinitely in depicting 
 the points of interest in this rare old place, where 
 almost every excavation brings to light a Roman 
 altar or inscription, or an early English coin, or 
 relic of forgotten days ; and where there still 
 remains so much inseparably connected with the 
 historic past, as to make a pilgrimage here most 
 fascinating to anyone who cares at all for the 
 days gone by. Time and space are wanting to 
 tell all we saw or all we did in our repeated vis- 
 its to this attractive spot, which may be styled 
 the door-way to the old English home. 
 
 We paid our respects to the Lord Bishop at 
 his Palace, dined and visited at the Deanery, 
 from which, just before our coming, Mr. Glad- 
 stone had passed out to his home at Hawarden 
 Castle near-by ; and at length, after several most 
 happy days, reluctantly took the train for Lich- 
 field, not, alas ! to visit the loved Bishop, from 
 whom but a few weeks since we had received a 
 most urgent invitation, but to stand beside his 
 newly-turfed grave ! Farewell ! quaint old Ches- 
 ter. Five times have we visited its " rows," and 
 walls, and Cathedral, and even now, as we re- 
 vive our pleasant memories of its attractions, we 
 would fain make a pilgrimage thither again ! 
 
II. 
 
 LICHFIELD. 
 
 IT was by a winding road and over flinty stones 
 that we were driven along our way from the 
 valley of the Trent to the crown of the grassy 
 knoll, where, in its quiet loveliness, far from the 
 busy life of the centres of trade and industry, 
 sits like a queen the cathedral city of Lichfield. 
 The tall hedge-rows on either side were casting 
 their slant shadows as the day declined ; and 
 even the cold, gray road-side walls, almost hidden 
 with their dense, luxuriant mingling of ivy and 
 moss and lichens, were mottled with tintings of 
 
Lichfield. 21 
 
 gold and crimson and living green. We passed 
 a row of modern villas, near the station, built 
 of bright red brick, and yet with their quaint 
 gables and odd chimney-pots ; their, diamond 
 shaped window panes and comfortable balconies, 
 and above all with their garniture of sweet briar 
 and eglantine, seeming quite cozy and home-like. 
 All the while the three tall spires of the Cathe- 
 dral, unique in their graceful symmetry of out- 
 line as in their number, were seen standing out 
 in bold and beautiful relief against the setting 
 sun. Under the elms and surrounded by me- 
 morials of the dead of many generations, we 
 noticed the noble Church of S. Michael, and it 
 was not without many crowding memories of 
 our connection for some years with its American 
 namesake, S. Michael's, Litchfield, Connecticut, 
 that we paused for a moment to imprint upon 
 memory the fine proportions and beautiful 
 surroundings of this venerable structure. We 
 were soon in the narrow streets, and after a 
 brief delay found ourselves quite at home at the 
 Black Swan Inn. Through an arched passage 
 opening into a paved courtyard we entered this 
 old-time hostlery, on the one side finding the 
 coffee room, where the pretty bar-maids were 
 
22 So?ne Su77imer Days Abroad. 
 
 quickly busied in making preparations for a 
 substantial meal, while on the other side of the 
 way were the long suites of parlors and cham- 
 bers connected by winding passages, and low and 
 dark, and musty as if with the use of centuries. 
 The dinner over, we sought the shady way lead- 
 ing to the Cathedral Close. It was now bright 
 moonlight, and as we climbed the slight ascent, 
 skirting the Minster Pool, there opened to our 
 view in all their airy splendor, the peaks and 
 pinnacles, the three battlemented towers with 
 their graceful buttresses and spires, and all the 
 intricate and lavish adornment of the great west 
 front. 
 
 " Lo ! with what dep'.h of blackness thrown 
 Against the clouds, far up the skies 
 The walls of the Cathedral rse, 
 Like a myste ious grove of s'onc. 
 With fitful lights and shadows blending, 
 As from behind, the moon ascending, 
 Lights its dim aisles and paths unknown!" 
 
 It was a scene and sight never to be forgot- 
 ten ! All possible shapes of beauty seemed in 
 fantastic combinations and arrangement to crowd 
 the retina ; and even the time worn and weather 
 beaten stones, the niches with their half defaced 
 and broken statues, the crumbling buttresses, 
 and far up on high — 
 
Lichfield. 23 
 
 " The Rose, above the western portal, 
 
 Flamboyant with a thousand gorgeous colors, 
 The perfect flower of Gothic loveliness," — 
 
 Each and all seemed etherialized, spiritualized 
 as bathed in the flood of moonlight. We ling- 
 ered till the shadows deepened, and then, pass- 
 ing reverently to the side, threaded our way 
 among the dwellings of the Cathedral dignitaries, 
 peopled even in the stillness of this lovely night 
 of June, not only with the living but with the 
 memories of those who like Addison and John- 
 son and Garrick, and the unfortunate Major 
 Andre, had paced these walks and trod upon 
 the yielding turf of this quiet Close, in the years 
 long passed. Our shadowy path was full of 
 memories. 
 
 The Cathedral lost little if any of its weird 
 beauty, when the pale light of the moon gave 
 place to the broad glare of noon-day. Grand as 
 is its noble exterior, the view when the nave is 
 entered through the central western portal is one 
 of striking grandeur. The architecture within 
 is unusually graceful in all its details ; and be- 
 yond the light choir-screen of metal-work the 
 eye takes in the elaborate reredos of the altar, a 
 mass of costly marble and alabaster, and finally 
 
24 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 rests on the stained glass of the Lady-chapel, 
 glowing with its rainbow tints between the dark 
 lines of tracery. The chief portions of the 
 Cathedral are of the Early English and Decor- 
 ated styles of architecture, and its erection 
 occupied the whole of the thirteenth century 
 and the first-quarter of the fourteenth. Per- 
 pendicular windows were inserted during the 
 fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, and the central 
 spire was rebuilt from a design by the celebrated 
 Wren, after the Restoration. The glass is of 
 singular richness and beauty. It was obtained 
 after the destruction of the windows by the 
 Puritans, from the abbey of Herckenrode, in 
 the bishopric of Liege, and was made between 
 the years 1530 and 1540, a period when the art 
 of staining glass had attained great perfection. 
 We wandered reverently among the monu- 
 ments of the dead ; and were hushed to silence 
 as we stood before one of Chantrey's exquisite 
 conceptions — two lovely children in each other's 
 arms, and both in the embrace of death. We 
 noticed the noble cenotaph erected to commem- 
 orate the singular daring of Major Hodgscn, 
 whose romantic capture of the King of Oude is 
 sculptured on its front. Chantrey's fine kneel- 
 
Lichfield. 35 
 
 ing figure of Bishop Rider was not overlooked ; 
 but even the splendor of these and other me- 
 morials of the historic dead were forgotten as 
 we passed outside the temple to stand rever- 
 ently and regretfully by the flower-strewn grave 
 of the apostolic Selwyn, first Metropolitan of 
 New Zealand, and ninetieth Bishop of Lichfield. 
 A group of children, with uncovered heads, 
 were gathered around the spot, for the great and 
 good Bishop who had so lately gone from earth 
 was a lover of the little ones ; and as we joined 
 them we felt that although we could not see the 
 dear friend whom we had known and loved for 
 seven years, and whose warm welcome to Eng- 
 land we had received a few short weeks before, 
 his was the happy rest of Paradise ; his the 
 blessed sleep in Jesus. 
 
 After a few hours in the grand old Minster, 
 four hundred feet in length and over sixty in 
 height, we strolled across the meadows, most 
 charming in their robe of green in the pleasant 
 month of June, to S. Chad's Church and the 
 famous well where the old Bishop and mis- 
 sionary baptized his converts. The Church of 
 Chadstowe occupies the traditional site of the 
 Saint's orrtory and place of death, and shows 
 
26 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 the marks of time. As we passed through its 
 aisles to the well, we lingered for a moment to 
 inspect the cottages of the poor, cozily nestling 
 under the very shadow of the old-time church. 
 The water of S. Chad's well has a mystic power, 
 and those who drink of it and wish will have 
 their longing gratified. We had drank once 
 before from its deep, living spring, and wished 
 that we might come again to Lichiield, beautiful 
 and most winsome in its loveliness, as it lay 
 before our eyes in the pleasant valley of the 
 Trent. We drank again, and wished a second 
 time, but what that wish was must not be told, 
 else the charm is broken. We hope for its real- 
 ization all the same. 
 
 The early history of Lichfield is hidden 
 in the mists of time ; but legends and traditions 
 abound, explaining the origin of its name — 
 "the field of the dead" — and connecting it with 
 the persecutions attending the introduction of 
 Christianity, about the beginning of the fourth 
 century. The heraldic device of the city arms 
 depicts the martyrs who died for the faith dur- 
 ing the Dioclesian persecution, but the story 
 has doubtless grown with time, and may have 
 had but slight foundation in fact, if any at all. 
 
Lichfield. 27 
 
 The new religion was crushed for a time, and 
 only reappears in the middle of the seventh 
 century, when Oswi, the Anglo-Saxon King 
 of Northumbria, conquered Mercia and caused 
 Diuma to be consecrated Bishop by Finan, 
 the Bishop of Lindisfarne. A few years later, 
 Ceadda, or S. Chad, the great Saint of Lich- 
 field, appears, whose history, although made 
 romantic by the legend-mongers of later days, 
 has still the sub-stratum of historic truth. He 
 was a missionary Bishop, and his converts were 
 numbered by thousands. For two years and a 
 half he administered his Mercian diocese — as 
 the monkish chronicles describe it, " gloriosis- 
 si?ne" Holiness, humility, patient devotion, 
 indefatigable preaching and constant pastoral 
 •oversight were the characteristics of his Episco- 
 pate, and as his death drew near, we are told by 
 the venerable Bede that his cell was filled with 
 celestial harmony from angelic choirs, who came 
 to bear the worn and weary Bishop to Paradise. 
 Later, though only for a time, the See of Lich- 
 field was made an Archbishopric, and still later 
 at was united with Coventry. 
 
 In the fourteenth century a tournament was 
 held in Lichfield, and Edward the Third with 
 3 
 
25 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 seventeen knights, were the " joiisters." In 
 1397 Richard the Second kept his Christmas 
 feast at Lichfield, where two thousand oxen and 
 two hundred tuns of wine were consumed in 
 the festivities. Two years later the King was- 
 brought to Lichfield as a prisoner. A few hun- 
 dred years passed, and in the civil wars the 
 Roundheads besieged the Cavaliers, who had 
 gathered here under the command of the 
 Earl of Chesterfield. The Puritan leader, Lord 
 Brooke, who had avowed his purpose of destroy- 
 ing the Cathedral, and had publicly prayed that 
 God would " by some special token manifest 
 unto them His approbation of that their design," 
 was killed by a shot aimed from the Minster- 
 battlements, and as the event occurred on S. 
 Chad's day (March 2d), the interposition of 
 the patron saint was credited with this signal 
 deliverance. Still, after ammunition and food 
 were exhausted, the Royalists, though making a 
 spirited defence, were compelled to surrender. 
 Later, Prince Rupert was here, but the triumph, 
 after all, \sn s complete, and these iconoclasts, in 
 their hatred of all that was venerable or attrac- 
 tive in the worship of God, destroyed the mon- 
 uments, broke the effigies of bishops ana knights 
 
Lichfield, zg 
 
 of the olden times, stole the sepulchral brass- 
 es, demolished the painted windows, burnt the 
 church records and the organ, tore up the sacred 
 vestments, travestied the holy rites of baptism 
 by carying a calf wrapped in linen to the font, 
 dipping it in water and bestowing upon it some 
 ribald name ; and so, after unparalleled outrages, 
 left desolate the holy and beautiful house of God. 
 Traces of their vandalism still appear on shat- 
 tered effigies and monuments. But since the 
 Restoration, the work of repair and replacement 
 has hardly ceased, and in a few years this vener- 
 able shrine will have its pristine beauty, only 
 softened and hallowed by the touch of time. 
 
 A drive through the market-place, where a 
 massive statue opposite the house of his birth 
 commemorates the connection of Dr. Samuel 
 Johnson with this spot, and a lingering glance 
 as we passed by the beautiful Churches of S. 
 Mary and S. Michael, and we were hurrying to 
 the station. Soon the three spires of the Cathe- 
 dral melted into the haze of the horizon, and 
 we were swiftly borne away from this lovely 
 spot, among whose most hallowed assotioncias 
 will ever be the memory that it was the last 
 home of Selwyn, England's most faithful mis- 
 sionary Bishop. 
 
Ill 
 
 RUGBY AND COVENTRY. 
 
 WE were hastening to Coventry, when, by 
 a lucky mishap, we found ourselves at 
 Rugby with half-an-hour to wait. Memories 
 of Dickens's "Mugby Junction" faded away 
 from mind, as there came full and strong to 
 our recollection the name and fame of Thomas 
 Arnold, that wonder-working Head-Master of 
 Rugby, whose noble life and manly Christian 
 teachings are reproduced in the lives of those 
 who hung upon the truths he taught while liv- 
 ing, or are in tuin transmitting their master's 
 
Rugby and Coventry. 31 
 
 word and work to others, now that he has 
 passed away. And so we saw with profound 
 interest the quadrangles familiar to all readers 
 of "Tom Brown," with the "boys" in their 
 cricketing or boating costumes, hurrying to or 
 from the play grounds or their rooms, and then 
 looked in upon the class-rooms, dormitories, 
 cabinets and library, all far from presenting 
 that "spick an I span" appearance which our 
 Jii Jier schools afford, but i. earing evident traces 
 of the presence and pranks of veritable boys. 
 On we went through halls and " quads" to the 
 beautiful school chapel, which, from the very 
 cross at the top of the building, on which the 
 great Head-Master was wont to dwell in his 
 sermons to his pupils, as symbol of the end and 
 aim of Christian education, to the simple stone 
 under the altar, as it stood before the chapel 
 was enlarged, which marked the resting place 
 of Thomas Arnold, was filled with memories 
 of the life-work, and proofs of the far-reaching 
 influence, of this great-hearted Christian teach- 
 er. We pa-sedfrom this beautiful chapel, turn- 
 ing reverently as we left, to see the massive 
 altar-cnxs shining forth amidst the gloom of 
 fading day, and were soon in the almost-sacred 
 
32 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 study where Dr. Arnold was accustomed to 
 meet the "sixth form," and where amidst the 
 folios, quartos and octavos of a noble library, 
 lining the walls, works were written which will 
 long mould English thought, and instructions 
 were imparted which have never lost their force. 
 This room, as we saw it on this rainy day in 
 June, — even the scholars' desks, scarred and 
 chipped with many a deeply-cut initial and rude 
 caning; books, maps, pictures, — all, are pho* 
 tographed in our " chambers of imagery," and 
 will never be forgotten. Our mishap on our 
 way to Coventry gave us a pleasure we had not 
 anticipated. 
 
 Soon "the three tall spires" of Coventry, 
 famed for their architectural beauty, their age 
 and graceful outlines, as well as their great 
 height, were seen standing out grandly against 
 the evening sky, as we drove from the station 
 to "The Craven Arms." We were hardly 
 assigned to our quaint, musty rooms, low-ce led 
 and with lattice- windows opening on a narrow 
 court, in this rambling hostlery of the ancient 
 time, ere we sallied forth on our pi'grimage 
 to the shrines and sepulchres of this spot, so 
 renowned in song and story. At the Hertford 
 
Rugby and Coventry. 33 
 
 street-corner, but a step from our inn, a gro- 
 tesque figure of " Peeping Tom," that 
 
 " One low churl, compact of thankless earth, 
 
 The fatal byword of all years to come," 
 
 was seen peering from an upper story ; and 
 elsewhere in effigy or in countless reproductions 
 in pictures and photographs this luckless wight 
 has his shameful immortality. In St. Mary's 
 Hall, once the banqueting room of St. Katha- 
 rine's Guild, and built early in the sixteenth 
 century, we saw the exquisite statue of the no- 
 ble Lady Godiva, "the woman of a thousand 
 summers back," whose u ride through Coven- 
 try," to free the citizens from some servile tenure 
 or oppressive tax, has given her this loving re- 
 membrance, and has made her name and story 
 known in verse and prose, wherever the old 
 chronicles of England are read, or the verse of 
 Tennyson is admired. 
 
 In the Guild Hall, on the long tables around 
 which the magistrates were wont to sit, were 
 the papers of a number of candidates for Holy 
 Orders, who were passing their examinations 
 preparatory to the Trinity Sunday ordination ; 
 and the long array of quires of written ques- 
 tions and answers attested the number and the 
 
34 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 diligence of the young men who were soon to 
 swell the clergy list of England's Church. On 
 a raised dais was some tapestry of great beauty 
 and antiquity, filled with life-size representa- 
 tions of medaeval notables, but mutilated of 
 course by Cromwell's men, traces of whose de- 
 structive malice are everywhere t be seen ; and 
 in a little hall, charters and seals and autographs- 
 made up a most interesting collection for t':e 
 antiquarian's study. An autograph of the ill- 
 fated Anne Boleyn was there, a letter announc- 
 ing the birth of Princess Elizabeth, who was 
 to be the good Queen Bess ; and the room was 
 crowded with similar relics of long-past years,. 
 and of worthies long since mouldered into dust. 
 We penetrated into the crypt and saw the 
 grand provision made by the guil 1 of old for 
 royal feasts and banqueting, and found our visit 
 to this novel architectural pile of itself well re- 
 warding our pilgrimage by the glimpses it gave 
 us of the merry days of old. The long twilight, 
 lasting till nearly midnight at this season, gave 
 us opportunity to Wander from street to street, 
 and through lane after lane. We visited first 
 the Bluecoat school, where the cloistered pass- 
 ages opened on the quadrangle where were the 
 
Rugby and Coventry. 35 
 
 gabled residences of the pensioners on the foun- 
 der's bounty. Next we sought the foundations 
 of the old cathedral, for Coventry was a Bish- 
 op's See of old, thus noting in our wanderings 
 many a most interesting relic of old-time archi- 
 tecture, and finally, from sheer fatigue, we went 
 to our beds, where from between the scehted 
 linen sheets, we, as we dropped asleep, rejoiced 
 in heart that we were " in Coventry." 
 
 Early in the morning we started forth to see 
 the churches, visiting first St. Michael's, where 
 Godiva and the Earl Leofric, her husband, were 
 buried ; and where of old was a memorial of the 
 gentle lady, who 
 
 " Took the tax away 
 
 And built herself an everlasting- fame." 
 
 The church, four hundred feet in length, with 
 a spire two hundred and three feet in height, 
 with over three thousand sittings, (filled, we 
 were told, each Sunday night at the regular 
 church service) is one of the finest gothic struc- 
 tures in England, and is, we believe, the largest 
 parish church. It was founded about the year 
 1 133, and the spire, which was twenty-two 
 years in building, was finished in 1395. The 
 roof is of sombre oak, and is of great beauty. 
 
36 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 Much of the ol 1 glass remains, and the interi- 
 or, from its very immensity, is at once grand 
 and impressive. The body of the church, re- 
 built in 1434, has been exquisitely restore 1, and 
 few cathedrals exceed this noble Church of St. 
 Michael's in simple elegance. 
 
 Trinity Church is but a few steps from the 
 shaded church yard of St. Michael's. It dates 
 back to the year 1260, but the mutilations of 
 time have defaced the beauty of its fabric. 
 Still, its interior is well worth a visit, while its 
 stone pulpit, its memorial windows and its lofty 
 roof are features of interest. Christ Church, 
 though le.ss beautiful, makes the third of the 
 Coventry's tall spires, and mark the site of an 
 ancient house of the mendicant Grey Friars. 
 
 But the choicest bit of ancient architecture 
 in Coventry is Ford's Hospital, in Grey Friars' 
 Street, where, on a foundation dating back to 
 the early days of Coventry, a quaint old home 
 is provided for a number of pensioners who 
 have their rooms in this exquisite old-time struc- 
 ture, which almost seems to have stepped bodilv 
 forth from the pages of Froissart or Moastre- 
 let, those faithful chroniclers of mediaeval days. 
 The front of this old " Hospital," built of heavy 
 
Rugby and Coventry, 37 
 
 crossed-timber their intes with rstices filled in 
 with plaster, and terminating in peaked gables 
 of fantastic styles, is of the style of eight hun- 
 dred years and more ago, and through the quaint 
 portal, with its carvings and heraldic devices on 
 every side, so that the inmates could look down 
 upon those who were coming in below ; while 
 reaching far behind were the little gardens and 
 shady walks of the favored inmates of this quiet 
 nook. Among the pleasant sights in Coventry, 
 Ford's Hospital should never be missed. The 
 romances of chivalry receive a new meaning as 
 we study such an interesting bit of really con- 
 temporary architecture. We could almost see 
 the train of mailed knights sweeping down the 
 crooked, narrow streets, or the solemn proces- 
 sion of gray cowled and clad monks emerging 
 from their conventual cloisters on some grand 
 feast day of their calendar, with banners and 
 crosses and all the insignia of their faith. From 
 the windows it required but the slightest effort 
 of imagination to seem to see the bright faces 
 of English maidens of the days gone by, scan- 
 ning with interest the passers-by below ; or to 
 mark the sturdy yeomanry pouring forth from 
 the thatched cottages as they sought pleasure or 
 
3S Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 employ in the very by-paths we were threading 
 with reverent tread. 
 
 Full of interest both to the archaeologist and 
 the churchman- is Coventry. It has a history 
 both ecclesiastical and secular, and it was with 
 no little regret that we took our carriages to en- 
 joy the famous drive to Kenilworth. Again and 
 again did we look behind us on our way, and it 
 was long ere the three tall spires faded out of 
 view, and Coventry was with us but a memory 
 and a regret. 
 
IV. 
 
 KENILWORTH AND WARWICK. 
 
 THE drive from Coventry to Kenilworth is 
 famous. Under spreading oaks, with bits 
 of most romantic scenery on either side, we 
 drove along, meeting now a squad of cavalry, 
 whose brilliant dress and accoutrements were 
 in marked contrast with the quiet beauty of the 
 undergrowth and hedge-rows, along side of 
 which their course and ours was leading, and 
 now encountering a group of laughing girls on 
 a wild-wood stroll, making the air ring with 
 their merriment, as they gaily trod over the gorse 
 
40 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 and heather with that easy swinging gait, which 
 told of out-door life and labor. Soon we were 
 passing through the narrow, crooked streets of 
 Ken il worth, with glimpses now and then of the 
 castle ruins, the priory gate, and the venerable 
 Abbey Church, and almost ere we realized the 
 fact the grand old towers, made so famous by 
 Scott's vivid descriptions, stood out before us 
 against the sky ; and we were treading rever- 
 ently on ground where history and romance 
 have made attractive each crumbling stone and 
 broken arch, each clambering vine of ivy or bit 
 of springing turf. Artist, historian, antiqua- 
 rian, novelist, have each in turn done homage at 
 this shrine. Famed indeed, in poetry and prose, 
 are these ruins where Elizabeth held court, as 
 earlier sovereigns had before, and which to 
 countless minds are ever associated with the 
 story of the villany of Varney, the weakness of 
 Leicester, and the wrongs and sorrows of sweet 
 Amy Robsart. We wandered in and out, amidst 
 towers and battlements, banqueting halls and 
 courts, corridors and chambers, still beautiful 
 though in ruin ; and then, our pilgrimage over, 
 we were soon within the grounds of Stoneleigh 
 Abbey, through which we drove under the 
 
Kenilworth and Warwick. 41 
 
 grand old trees, with the deer browsing on either 
 side of us, and over roads smooth and hard as- 
 stone itself, till we were out among the fields 
 again. Guy's Cliff, the seat of one of the Percy 
 family and deriving its name from the bold and 
 precipitous rocks on and in and from which 
 the castle, surmounted by the chapel with its em- 
 battled tower, is built, was shortly seen and after 
 a walk down a pleasant avenue of trees we 
 reached the spot whence we could see the fair 
 beauty of a scene noted for centuries. Here 
 Guy, Earl of Warwick, hero of many a nursery 
 tale, concluded a life of adventure by years of 
 austerity and devotion, seeking spiritual consola- 
 tion at the hands of a man of God who dwelt 
 in a cell formed out of the solid rock, and living 
 on the alms daily received from the hand of his 
 neglected countess, who only knew of his near- 
 ness when the hand of death was laid upon him. 
 Near by, on Blacklow hill, rises in full view of 
 the passer-by a stone cross marking the spot 
 where nearly six centuries ago Piers Gaveson r 
 kW the minion of a hateful king," was beheaded r 
 as the inscription tells us, u by barons lawless as 
 himself." Passing through rows of 4i sombre 
 yews," mingled on either side with large forest 
 
42 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 trees and fragrant shrubs, we hastened on till 
 we were in Warwick, with the battlements of 
 its grand old castle full In view. 
 
 Here again we were on a spot whose history 
 dates back to the age of fable. Founded, as the 
 the legends state, by King Cymbeline in the tw- 
 light years of English history, it was here that 
 the Romans came in the first centuries after 
 Christ. Here at a later day the Danes destroyed 
 the hamlet which was rebuilt by Etheltieda, the 
 daughter of Alfred the Great. Here the " King- 
 maker" lived, and clustering here are many of 
 the noted names and events of English history. 
 
 The approach of the Castle is through an 
 embattled gateway, opening into a winding road 
 cut in the solid rock. The way is arched and 
 shaded by leafy shrubs and trees, while the moss 
 and ivy cover with a robe of living green the 
 sides of the rock-hewn path. A sudden turn in 
 the way brings us to the outer court, where the 
 long line of towers and castellated walls and 
 lofty halls strikes the eye in all its bold magnifi- 
 cence. Here, as in so many other old-time spots, 
 we have on the left a " Caesar's Tower," coeval 
 with the Norman conquest. On the right a poly- 
 gonal turret with massive walls, called Guy's 
 
Kenilworth and Warwick. 43 
 
 Tower, rises to a height of one hundred and 
 twenty-eight feet. In the centre of the connect- 
 ing wall is the ponderous gateway, flanked by 
 turrets, and opening into another passage way 
 with towers and battlements rising far above the 
 first. Here an old portcullis remains and still 
 hangs ready for use, while before the whole ap- 
 proach is the disused moat with an arch thrown 
 over it at the gate-way, where of old the draw- 
 bridge was suspended. 
 
 Passing through the well defended barbacan 
 we reach the court yard, a spacious area of rich 
 green-sward. On the left stands the grand cas- 
 tellated mansion of the feudal barons of War- 
 wick. Almost uninjured by the tooth of time, 
 £L fire on Advent Sunday, 1S71, consumed a 
 portion of the great hall with many of the 
 treasures it contained ; but the restoration im- 
 mediately begun has been successfully carried 
 out, and few, if any, traces of decay or ruin are 
 now to be seen. On one side the old Norman 
 Tower appears; and in front is the "Keep," 
 clothed "from turret to foundation stone" with 
 spreading vines and the luxuriant ivy which is 
 everywhere to be seen. On the right are two 
 unfinished towers, (one of which was begun 
 
 4 
 
44 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 by Richard III.), the turrets and halls joined by 
 ramparts and embattled walls of great thickness 
 and height. Open flights of steps and broad 
 walks on the top of the walls form a means of 
 communication between all portions of the cas- 
 tle, and afford abundant illustrations of the mode 
 of conducting the defense of such posts in feudal 
 days. The whole effect is grand beyond descrip- 
 tion, and one seems carried back to the days of 
 chivalry and revels amidst the most glorious 
 of mediaeval scenes. 
 
 Entering the great hall, one has, at a single 
 glance, a view of the grand suite of state rooms 
 on the one side and the domestic apartments on 
 the other, extending upwards of three hundred 
 and thirty feet. At the end of the chapel pass- 
 age is the celebrated painting by Vandyck, of 
 Charles I. This is a noble picture, of life-size 
 and in the distance nearly resembling life itself. 
 From the windows of the great Hall there is a 
 charming view of the Avon ; while stretching 
 out far as the eye can reach is the extensive park 
 with its famous cedars of Lebanon, and forest 
 trees of every hue, shape and size, making a 
 scene where nature and art have combined to 
 form a picture of surpassing beauty. 
 
Kenihvorth and Warwick. 45 
 
 We wandered through the long array of 
 apartments stored with paintings by the old 
 masters, and abounding in portraits of historic 
 characters, such as the unfortunate Earl of Strat- 
 ford, Queen Henrietta Maria, Prince Rupert, 
 Loyola and Luther, Henry VIII. and Anne 
 Boleyn, with many others. Superb cabinets; 
 tables of buhl and marquetrie, ormolu, crystal, 
 china and lava vases ; bronzes and antiques, 
 with splendid furniture of every style, add to 
 the charms of these grand suites of rooms, in 
 which you pass from one object of interest and 
 beauty to another, till the mind is bewildered 
 and the memory refuses to grasp one-half that 
 is seen. 
 
 Passing from the Boudoir, an ojDening in the 
 wainscot leads into the u Armoury Passage," 
 where there is one of the finest collections of 
 ancient armor in the Kingdom. We enter room 
 after room till the chapel is reached, and thence 
 we pass to the state dining and breakfast rooms, 
 through which the wearied sight-seer gains the 
 outside world once more, oppressed by the splen- 
 dor and quite worn out with the monotonous 
 recitals of the tiresome guide, who hurries one 
 remorselessly from room to room, caring only 
 
46 So?ne Su7nmer Days Abroad. 
 
 for his half-a-crown. In the green-house is the 
 celebrated Warwick Vase, an antique marble 
 of great beauty, found at the bottom of a lake 
 at Adrian's villa at Tivoli, and one of the finest 
 specimens of ancient sculpture in existence. 
 Through leafy shades we reach the river front 
 of the castle ; the keep and its towers, the mills, 
 the falls, the ruined arches of the bridge, all 
 making up a picture of great variety and beauty, 
 which once seen can never be forgotten. 
 
 But the castle is not all that is noteworthy at 
 Warwick. The churches, the streets, the old 
 timber-and-plaster houses, are interesting ; and 
 St. Mary's, a noble structure, contains the cele- 
 brated Beauchamp Chapel with its altar-tomb 
 of Purbec marble, which is considered one of 
 the finest sepulchral monuments in England. 
 Here Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, is bu- 
 ried ; but a nobler monument of this historic 
 character is the interesting "Hospital" which 
 he endowed as a home for twelve war-worn 
 retainers, whose successors live to-day, under 
 the rules, and in the rooms, dating back to the 
 Elizabethan age. Leicester's Hospital is one of 
 the most perfect specimens of the half-timber 
 buildings in this part of England. It is built 
 
Ke7iilworth and Warwick. 47 
 
 around a quadrangle with open galleries along 
 the four sides, which bear in every arch, and 
 all along their gabled front, escutcheons, crests, 
 and coats of arms with the quaint device of the 
 Bear and Ragged Staff, recurring again and 
 again, while in old English lettering the appro- 
 priate texts appear — Honour all Men," u Fear 
 God," Honour the King," Love the Brother- 
 hood," lt Be Kindly Affectioued one to Another." 
 Here the i " bedesmen" live in snug but comfort- 
 able quarters, each having the privacy of home 
 and yet sharing in the privilege of the common 
 hall. Each receives a yearly allowance of =£80, 
 together with the blue-cloth cloak, which, with 
 the founder's cognizance, the Bear and Ragged 
 Staff in silver, dating back to the founder's day, 
 are the badge of the brotherhood. 
 
 Rising from a rock-foundation, through which 
 has been pierced a gate-way to the winding 
 street below, is the church attached to the Hos- 
 pital of which the "Master" is the incumbent, 
 and where at daily prayers the little community 
 gather as one household. There is a noble 
 kitchen in which the architectural details are 
 enlivened with quartering* of Lord Leicester's 
 arms, with the reproduction of the " Bear and 
 
48 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 Rnsrsred Staff" in countless forms, and the ini- 
 tials u R. L.," and the motto Droit et Loyal 
 repeated again and again. A bit of Amy Roh- 
 sart's embroidery hangs upon the oaken pannel- 
 ing, with halberds, pikes, and muskets from 
 various battle fields ; while the high-backed set- 
 tees ranged about the chimney, which is large 
 enough for the roasting of an ox, and the gleam- 
 ing flngons lighted up by the glowing coals, told 
 of the good cheer and comfort of this happy 
 brotherhood. 
 
 Tired and weary we rested at the " Warwick 
 Arms," in comfortable quarters, though not to 
 be commended for attendance or table ; and 
 thus ended another happy summer day. 
 
STRATFORD-UPON-AVON. 
 
 STOPPING at the " Red Horse Inn," sitting 
 in the little parlor occupied by Washington 
 Irving, and in the chair which bears his name, 
 sleeping in the chamber he slept in, and look- 
 ing into the fire-place — would it were glowing 
 with sea-coals, even though it is mid-summer as 
 we write ! — of which he wrote in the " Sketch 
 Book," our memories of Shakespeare have plea- 
 sant comminglings with those of our own Irving, 
 and we, as Americans, owe a double homage as 
 we write ourselves pilgrims at the shrine of 
 Avon's Bard. 
 
50 Some Summer days Abroad. 
 
 * 
 We reached Stratford-upon-Avon after a plea- 
 sant day at Leamington, a fashionable "Spa," 
 not unlike an American town in its newness and 
 uniformity ; and took advantage of the twilight 
 to visit the birth-place of the poet, now the 
 property of the nation, and whence with inter- 
 esting memories of its old-time and pregnant 
 associations, we bore from the neatly-kept gar- 
 den a pansy " for thought." The house has 
 been most carefully restored to its original con- 
 dition, and is one of the half-timber structures 
 peculiar to the domestic architecture of the 
 mediaeval age, and the beauty of which, in con- 
 trast with prosaic modern structures, at once 
 fills the eye and commands our admiration. 
 Quite a museum of Shakesperian pictures and 
 relics, and a library of Shakesperian editions 
 and illustrative works add to the attractions of 
 the place — if other attractions were needed 
 than its being the birth-place of England's 
 greatest genius. The darkness came at length, 
 and after a silent walk through Stratford streets 
 we were quietly resting at the Red Horse " tak- 
 ing our ease at our inn." 
 
 The Sunday dawned auspiciously. We were 
 lingering over our breakfast in the little parlor 
 
Stratford-upon-Avon. 51 
 
 ever associated with Irving's name and pres- 
 ence, when the good Vicar, Rev. Dr. Collis, in 
 cap and gown, was introduced, bearing a letter 
 from the wife of the Lord Bishop of Oxford, 
 asking of our whereabout. A great meeting 
 was to be held in the Sheldonian Theatre, (the 
 University Hall), the coming week, and as the 
 American Bishops were announced as speakers 
 and the time was drawing near, the country 
 was being scoured for the expected visitors. 
 Satisfied as to his inquiries, the Vicar, after 
 inviting us to the service in the Church of the 
 Holy Trinity, where Shakespeare was baptized, 
 and where his ashes lie, hurried to his early 
 service, leaving us leisurely to stroll along the 
 river-walk, and under the broad avenue of trees, 
 till the church was reached in time for the usual 
 mid-day prayers. The ladies of the party were 
 placed in the choir of the church, in the finely 
 carved '• stalls," occupied by the clergy and 
 choristers on special occasions, and within full 
 view of the monument and resting place of 
 Shakespeare ; and after a sweet choral render- 
 ing of the Morning Prayer and Litany, in which 
 a crow led congregation most heartily joined, a 
 sermon was preached by the Bishop of Iowa, 
 
52 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 and then the Holy Communion, chorally ren- 
 dered, was administered to a large number of 
 the faithful. It was a day to be remembered. 
 The very air seemed laden with weird associa- 
 tions and far-reaching memories. The influence 
 of the spot could not be shaken oft', and when 
 the solemn service was over, and the kind Vicar 
 in his Oxford doctor's gown of black and scarlet 
 took us over the sacred building, showing us 
 each spot and shrine connected with the poet, 
 and many other points of interest besides, we 
 felt that our pilgrimage was indeed well repaid. 
 The store of memories here laid up could not 
 ever be lost. 
 
 We were invited to dine at Shottery Hall, 
 where the Vicar and his charming wife resided, 
 and the approach to which was under the broad 
 chestnut trees, and through the sweet meadows 
 on either side of the road trod again and again 
 by the young Shakespeare, seeking the thached 
 cottage where Ann Hathaway dwelt. 
 
 Shottery Hall is not an ordinary Vicarage. 
 The Vicar of Stratford-upon-Avon, with the 
 care of five churches and the cure of several 
 thousand souls, receives a stipend less than that 
 of many an American clergyman, who, doubt- 
 
Stratford-upon-Avon. 53 
 
 less, often thinks with envy of the rich (?) 
 benefices of the mother church. Were the 
 Vicar and his wife not possessed of an ample 
 fortune they could not carry on the great church 
 work they have in charge — the building of 
 churches, the care of the College of the Holy 
 Trinity, the Sunday Schools, the pastoral visi- 
 tations, the relief of bodies as well as souls, — 
 occupying each moment, and making the weeks 
 too short for the work to be done for Christ and 
 His Church. The Hall is a beautiful mansion 
 with noble rooms filled with every object of taste 
 and luxury, while the grounds are of vast ex- 
 tent and beauty. After the noon-time meal we 
 walked through the grounds to Ann Hathaway's 
 cottage, where the courtship of Shakespeare 
 took place. We were shown over this interest- 
 ing spot by the kindly descendant of the Hatha- 
 ways, who occupies the old home, and were 
 deeply interested in the old-time relics and asso- 
 ciations with which the place abounds. Near- 
 by was the Shottery Church of St. Andrew, 
 built by Dr. and Mrs. Collis, and offering a 
 charming model of a rural church. 
 
 In the evening we were driven to the chapel 
 of the College of the Holy Trinity, where after 
 
^_j. Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 the hearty choral even-song rendered by the boys, 
 of whom nearly one hundred and fifty were in 
 attendance, the Bishop of Iowa preached. 
 
 The following morning was spent in visiting 
 "New Place," where Shakespeare passed the 
 last few years of his life and where he died, 
 and the grammar school where he was edu- 
 cated, and in re-visiting the church. Here we 
 examined minutely the various points of interest 
 which have been so often described, and were 
 specially favored in being shown the entry of 
 Shakespeare's baptism on the vellum register 
 of the parish, and the record of his burial. The 
 font in which he was doubtless baptized is still 
 preserved in a mutilated condition, and the spot 
 where he lies in the chancel, among his kindred 
 dead, is sacred, not alone in view of the male- 
 diction, which he caused to be cut deep and 
 large over his place of burial, but in view of 
 the reverence which adheres to his name and 
 fame. 
 
 We wandered through the pleasant streets 
 of Stratford, interested in many tokens afforded 
 on every side of the veneration in which this 
 poet's memory is still held, and, our pilgrimage 
 over, were soon en route for Oxford. 
 
VI. 
 
 OXFORD. 
 
 IT was at nightfall that we reached the city of 
 colleges and churches, the oldest seat of learn- 
 ing of the English-speaking race. Meeting at 
 the station an old friend, the Bishop of Freder- 
 icton, Dr. Medley, and renewing most agreeably 
 a pleasant acquaintance with this venerable pre- 
 late, we were soon welcomed by the patroness 
 of all American Church folk, Mrs. Combe, to an 
 Oxford home, at the Clarendon Press. Here in 
 a residence, wholly covered outside with ivy, 
 and fragrant with the rare and brilliant flowers 
 
$6 So?7ie Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 enclosing a broad reach of green-sward, the ex- 
 terior adornments were excelled by the comfort 
 and charm within. We are doing no violence 
 to a sweet and saintly charity, and a Christian 
 life, the fame of which is widely known in the 
 world, to tell the tale, in our far distant land, 
 of alms and benefactions amounting to fully half 
 a million of dollars — the gifts to Christ and 
 His Church by the husband of our dear hostess, 
 and, since his decease, by Mrs. Combe herself. 
 Churches, chapels, schools, hospitals, infirm- 
 aries, sisterhoods, orphanages, and every good 
 word and work have shared this lavish stream 
 of charity, and in Oxford, and far and wide, at 
 home and abroad, the names of Thomas Combe, 
 M. A., and his beloved wife are held in grate- 
 ful, loving memory. The beautiful church of 
 S. Barnabas, with sittings for a thousand wor- 
 shippers, was built by this most excellent man. 
 The exquisite chapel of the Redcliffe Infirmary, 
 adorned with a taste and beauty rarely excelled, 
 was erected by the same open handed giver. 
 King Edward's School, a noble foundation with 
 halls, chapel and play-grounds, quite rivaling 
 the older schools of England, has its " Combe" 
 as well as "Keble" Hall, attesting the active, 
 
Oxford. 57 
 
 personal beneficence of Mr. Combe as well as 
 his large-hearted charity. 
 
 Our Oxford home, thus presided over by one 
 so worthy of love and veneration, had among 
 its inner furnishings some of those wonderful art 
 creations of modern days, of which the world 
 itself has heard. One we had seen and admired 
 at our last visit had been given by our hostess to 
 Keble College. It was the famous painting by 
 Holman Hunt, of Christ as the Light of the 
 World. But other and most striking paintings 
 by this eminent artist adorned the walls of the 
 house, while the productions of Rosetti and Mil- 
 lais are found in connection with the works of 
 other and no less distinguished artists of modern 
 times. A bust of Mr. Combe, and a most strik- 
 ing reproduction of the head of the celebrated 
 John Henry Newman, a life-long friend of the 
 family, with many other works of art, make this 
 home a treasure-house of much that is beautiful 
 and rare. The importance of these art-treasures 
 and the other attractions of the house may be 
 understood from the fact that Prince Leopold, 
 while an undergraduate of the University, was a 
 frequent visitor here, bringing from time to time 
 his royal brothers and sisters ; and this example 
 
58 Sojuc Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 of one of the reigning family has been widely 
 followed by the nobility and gentry, as well as 
 by those whose rank is that of literary fame or 
 civic distinction. 
 
 Nothing can be more perfect than the hospi- 
 tality of an English home. The guest is placed 
 at once at his ease : every attention is shown ; 
 every service rendered, and all is so unobtru- 
 sively done as to excite no surprise, and call for 
 no thought on the part of the recipient. It 
 requires only experience to prove how thorough 
 is the welcome an English home affords. Such 
 a welcome to one of the most attractive of 
 homes was ours, and for ten days at Oxford no 
 pains were spared, no efforts withheld, to make 
 our stay what it was indeed, an epoch in our 
 lives. 
 
 We had visited Oxford at this time for a 
 double purpose: to attend the great missionary 
 meetings, and to witness the " Commemora- 
 tion," as the gala-day of the University is called. 
 These interesting events were prefaced by an- 
 other, and, to us, as American Churchmen, an 
 interesting festival — the fete day at Cuddesdon. 
 In this lovely village, about eight miles from 
 Oxford, the late Lord Bishop, the celebrated Dr. 
 
Oxford. 59 
 
 Samuel Wilberforce, had established a Theolog- 
 ical College, intended to take the place occupied 
 by our American Theological schools, such as 
 4k Griswold," in giving direct and most valuable 
 preparation for Holy Orders. On the morning 
 of the day following our arrival we drove out 
 to this beautiful hamlet, which has grown up 
 around the Bishop's Palace and the fine old Nor- 
 man Church. The gathering was very large, 
 numbering fully four hundred Bishops, Priests, 
 Deacons and lay people of both sexes, and as 
 the long procession of choristers, students and 
 clergy in surplices moved two by two through 
 the Palace grounds, under green trees and over 
 the springing turf fringed and studded with 
 flowers, the white robes and many colored aca- 
 demic hoods of the clergy rustling and swaying 
 in the wind, it was a spectacle long to be remem- 
 bered. The church was thronged. The service, 
 entirely choral, was charmingly rendered and 
 participated in by the whole congregation. The 
 sermon was delivered by the venerable Bishop 
 of Fredericton, and at the close of the service 
 and Sacrament, the Lord Bishop of Oxford j 
 holding his Pastoral Staff in his left hand as he 
 stood before the Altar, extended his right with 
 
 5 
 
60 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 most impressive gesture to ^iveto the assembled 1 
 worshippers the blessing of peace. 
 
 The long procession then reformed, and with 
 the familiar recessional, '"Onward Christian 
 Soldiers, Marching as to War," proceeded to a 
 large tent raised on the Palace grounds, where 
 a bountiful collation had been spread, and where 
 three hundred invited guests were soon busily at 
 work caring for the needs of the inner man. 
 The long tables were decked with flowers and 
 were presided over by the Bishop of Oxford, Div 
 Mackarness, who, with Mrs. Perry by his side, 
 was surrounded by the Bishops and clergy, 
 Lords and ladies present at the fete. After the 
 luncheon came most spirited speeches, in which 
 a happy and kind reference by his Lordship to 
 the American Church was the occasion of the 
 introduction to the assembly of the Bishop of 
 Iowa, who made a speech in acknowledgment 
 of the toast, adding, as was fitting, an expres- 
 sion of the grateful memory in which the 
 founder of Cuddesdon was held by the Ameri- 
 can Church, of which he was the first historian. 
 After further speeches the guests dispersed them- 
 selves about the grounds or returned to Oxford. 
 Our party, after visiting the Palace Chapel, 
 
Oxford, 6 1 
 
 built by Bishop Wilberforce, and the exquisitely- 
 decorated College Chapel, lingered for tea at the 
 Palace, and then started for home. The day 
 had been a busy one, but we were in time for a 
 garden-party given by the Master of Wadham's 
 College in the private gardens of the Master, 
 which were tilled with distinguished guests 
 including the Vice Chancellor and numerous 
 "dons." Thence we hastened to a dinner par- 
 ty given by the Rector of Exeter College, at 
 which, aipong other notabilities, the late Amer- 
 ican Minister, the Hon. Edwards Pierrepont, 
 and his charming wife, were present. The din- 
 ner, in the Rector's noble hall, was followed by 
 an evening reception at which numbers gathered : 
 and at length well worn out with the varied 
 pleasures of our first day in Oxford, we reached 
 our home at midnight, quite needing the rest 
 and refreshment of sleep. 
 
 Our first busy day at Oxford, with its odd 
 comminglings of sermon and sacrament, speech- 
 making and sight-seeing, garden-parties and re- 
 ceptions, was but the type of other days follow- 
 ing in quick succession, and filled to the full 
 with that which could not fail to prove of deep- 
 est interest to Churchmen and strangers. In 
 
62 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 our record of travel we do not propose to give 
 an itinerary, but notice should at least be given 
 of the great missionary meetings for which we 
 had come to Oxford at this special time. In the 
 afternoon of the day following our visit to Cud- 
 desdon, the Sheldonian Theatre, with its two 
 thousand sittings, was largely, if not fully, filled 
 by a most interested and intelligent audience, 
 presided over by the Lord Bishop of Oxford. 
 In this splendid theatre, the result of the muni- 
 ficent gifts of the Archbishop, whose name it 
 bears, and for years the scene of all the public 
 ceremonies of the University, there was held one 
 of the grandest missionary meetings I have ever 
 attended. The speeches on this occasion were 
 delivered by American and Colonial Bishops 
 and were received with marked attention and 
 abundant applause. The speakers from the 
 United States were the assistant Bishop of North 
 Carolina, Dr. Lyman ; the Bishop of Ohio, Dr. 
 Bedell, and the Bishop of Iowa. Among the 
 speakers from other lands were the venerable 
 Bishop of Fredericton, Dr. Medley, the Metro- 
 politan of South Africa, Dr. Jones, and the 
 Bishop of Columbo (Ceylon), Dr. Copleston. 
 Thus from the various quarters of the earth. 
 
Oxford. 63 
 
 testimony was borne to the abundant mission- 
 ary zeal and success of the churches in com- 
 munion with the Church of England. In the 
 evening the Town Hall was crowded with an- 
 other audience. The afternoon gathering was 
 composed of the University dignitaries and stu- 
 dents. In the exening instead of the " gowns- 
 men " it was the "town" which was represented. 
 Among the speakers were the Bishop of Penn- 
 sylvania, Dr. Stevens ; the Bishop of the Falk- 
 land Isles, Dr. Stirling, whose See comprises the 
 southern portion of the South American conti- 
 nent ; the Bishop of Bombay, Dr. Mylne ; and 
 the Bishop of Ontario, Dr. Lewis. The speech- 
 es were of an high order, and the interest was 
 maintained to the close of the meeting, while 
 substantial tokens of this interest were left on 
 the plates held at the door as the large audience 
 slowly dispersed. I may be pardoned in say- 
 ing that the speeches of American Bishops 
 received both public as well as private com- 
 mendation, and many expressions of a grateful 
 appreciation of their presence and labors were 
 tendered them on every hand. 
 
 It was our good fortune to be enabled to 
 catch glimpses of the interior life of Oxford, 
 
64 So?ne Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 which revealed many features of interest. All 
 know something of the wonderful architectural 
 beauties of the various College halls, and also 
 of the "foundations" which yield to a certain 
 number of distinguished scholars both homes 
 and stipends for the prosecution of their studies, 
 and the advancement of learning in the world. 
 The "fellows" and professors are picked men 
 who have won and hold their places by their at- 
 tainments as scholars. Living in the various 
 College halls, and engaged more or less in the 
 work of instruction as well as study, they form 
 a feature in the society and life of Oxford not 
 to be overlooked. In the rooms of a "Fellow" 
 of Merton we were most charmingly entertained. 
 A number of Bishops, with other dignitaries in 
 church and state, were present, and the elegance 
 of the entertainment and the graceful hospital- 
 ity of our host, the Rev. Rural Dean Freeling, 
 made the occasion one full of enjoyment. From 
 these charming rooms, and from a glimpse of 
 the beautiful chapel where is a memorial of the 
 martyred Missionary Bishop of Melanesia, Dr. 
 Patteson, we proceeded to a public meeting in 
 the council chamber in the interest of a per- 
 manent memorial to the late Bishop of Lichfield, 
 
Oxford. 65 
 
 Dr. Selwyn, so well known and loved in Amer- 
 ica as well as in England, and at the very ends 
 •of the earth. At this meeting the Bishop of 
 Iowa bore willing testimony to the high char- 
 acter and holy example of this great and gifted 
 man. 
 
 Days were spent in the examination of the 
 halls and buildings so crowded with historic 
 associations. At Lincoln, John Wesley lived in 
 rooms still pointed out. At Pembroke, George 
 Whitfield learned the lesson of evangelistic 
 labors, which impelled him to minister to the 
 New World as well as the Old. At Oriel, Keble 
 studied and sung his holv verse. At St. John's, 
 Laud lived and by his great generosity gained 
 the title of second founder. At All Soul's, He- 
 ber won repute as a scholar, poet and a Christian 
 minister as well. And so one might go on bring- 
 ing up many of the great names of England's 
 history for a thousand years, which have been 
 connected with one or another of these ancient 
 seats of learning. Not only are the very rooms 
 hallowed with associations, but the halls and 
 libraries with their treasures of portraits, manu- 
 scripts and books of the greatest variety are not 
 to be overlooked In fact, the whole city of 
 
66 Some Sum?ner Days Abroad. 
 
 Oxford offers attractions to the visitor not to be 
 excelled wherever one may wander or whatever 
 he may chance to see. 
 
 In the midst of pleasures of all kinds, there 
 came the rest and refreshment of Sunday. In 
 this city of churches and colleges the Lord's day 
 finds full observance. Services begin with the 
 dawn and end only with the deepening of the 
 late twilight into night. With us an early cele- 
 bration of the Eucharist began the day in the 
 parish church near by, which at an early hour 
 was filled with eager worshippers. The service 
 was choral, and most inspiring, and a large 
 number of the faithful received the Sacrament 
 of the Body and Blood of Christ. In the morn- 
 ing, after the " Bidding Prayer" the University 
 Sermon was preached in the Church of St. Mary 
 the Virgin, by the Archbishop of York, Dr. 
 Thompson. It was in this church that Cran- 
 mer, after his recantation of the faith of Eng- 
 land's Reformed Church, renewed his protest 
 against Rome, and made his death avowal of 
 belief in the doctrines of the primitive and apos- 
 tolic days of Catholicity. The crowd enter 
 through the beautiful Italian porch, surmounted 
 by a benignant figure of the Blessed Virgin and 
 
Oxford. 67 
 
 her Son, erected by Archbishop Laud, and made 
 a special ground of accusation against him when 
 the Puritans were thirsting for his blood. The 
 sermon was thoughtful and admirably delivered. 
 The preacher, the Primate of England, is well 
 known to the scholarly world by his metaphys- 
 ical works, while among theologians he has long 
 held a prominent place, both as a writer and a 
 reasoner. 
 
 The Bishop of Iowa preached at St. Paul's 
 to a crowded congregation. The service was 
 choral, and all the tokens of respect so tully 
 observed by English clergy and church officials, 
 on occasions of the presence of their Dioces- 
 an, were carried out in almost amusing detail. 
 In the afternoon the Bishop catechized and 
 addressed nearly a thousand children at the 
 Church of St. Barnabas. This is a splendid 
 church, erected by Mr. Thomas Combe, in the 
 midst of the poorest district of Oxford, where 
 the assiduous ministrations of the incumbent, 
 the Rev. H. M. Noel, M. A., have resulted in 
 gathering one of the largest congregations in the 
 city. The services, which begin early in the 
 morning and are as frequent as there are hours 
 of holy time, are quite elaborate. 
 
6S So7iie Sui7imer Days Abroad. 
 
 The children's service consisted of the u Lit- 
 any of the Holy Child Jesus" which was sung 
 by the thousand voices with most inspiring effect. 
 The sea of little heads all turned toward the 
 speaker, who had come from a far away world 
 to talk to them, was a sight not to be forgotten ; 
 and the splendor of the church and its decora- 
 tions — for in England it is the churches_/br the 
 poor which are made most attractive and gor- 
 geous, together with the grand and uplifting 
 music, made the service one of intense interest. 
 
 It was " Show Sunday," and after evening 
 prayer the "Broad Walk" leading from Christ 
 Church was thronged in the twilight by all 
 the notabilities brought by the commemoration 
 to Oxford. From the balcony belonging to a 
 room of one of the Christ Chinch "dons," we 
 watched the surging tide of gownsmen, towns- 
 folk, strangers and others, till at length the day 
 was ended, and with it our experience of an 
 Oxford Sunday. 
 
 Parties, dinners, receptions, concerts and en- 
 tertainments of every kind jostled each other 
 in quick succession, or strove together as ri- 
 vals for the pleasure of the visitors who already 
 thronged the inns and lodging places, as well as 
 
Oxford. 69 
 
 every hospitable Oxford home. At length the 
 culmination of the week was reached, and the 
 Sheldonian Theatre was filled in every part by 
 the crowd assembled to witness the annual com- 
 memoration festivities The floor of the theatre 
 was assigned to the Masters of Arts. The semi- 
 circle was occupied by ladies in full dress, while 
 over all rose the galleries, one above the other, 
 filled with the undergraduates and the ladies 
 whom they had brought to see the spectacle, and 
 whose presence did not in the least restrain the 
 noisy demonstrations for which this occasion has 
 long been famous. Seats were kept for the in- 
 vited guests, and from any of these posts of 
 observation one could see and hear to advantage 
 all that transpired. As the theatre filled with 
 the throng of ladies, " dons," and undergrad- 
 uates, the students cheered and groaned alter- 
 nately one and another of England's greatest 
 men, varying their demonstrations by shouts for 
 the ladies in " blue" or "pink," or "white," as 
 any wearers of these colors came in view. Mr. 
 Gladstone, especially unpopular in view of the 
 present dislike of any apologists for Russia or 
 the Eastern Christians, was hissed most vocifer- 
 ously, while the Ministry, with Beaconsfield at 
 
Jo Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 its head, received almost unlimited applause. 
 At length after a wild scene of confusion, inter- 
 rupted only by organ recitals which elsewhere 
 would have claimed an attention they failed ut- 
 terly to secure on this occasion, the great doors 
 were thrown back, and the procession of heads 
 of colleges, with the Vice Chancellor and those 
 who were to receive honorary degrees, was 
 ushered through the dense crowd amidst tremen- 
 dous cheers. The bright robes of office and the 
 many colored hoods of academic degrees worn 
 on all "high days" of the University, gave a 
 brilliant appearance to the scene, and after the 
 u dons" and Bishops in their convocation dress 
 were seated in the front seats of the semi-circle, 
 and the opening prayers had been said, the con- 
 ferring of " D. C. L." degrees was begun. The 
 Marquis of Hartington was the first to receive 
 this honor, and although Gladstone's successor 
 as leader of the Opposition, he was welcomed 
 with great applause. One of the ministry, Sir 
 Michael Hicks-Beach, who followed with the 
 air and bearing of a sprightly young man, was 
 evidently a greater favorite. The late Ameri- 
 can Minister, Edwards Pierrepont, was kindly 
 received, although a few murmurs of " Bun- 
 
Oxford. 71 
 
 combe" were heard from the gallery, and a whis- 
 per of " Yankee Doodle" echoed on the air. 
 But the favorite of the day was Lord Napier, of 
 Magdala, and as the old soldier, his wrinkled 
 face gleaming with good humor, and his breast 
 covered with decorations received for honorable 
 exploits, came forward to the Vice Chancel- 
 lor's chair, the applause was deafening. The 
 galleries shouted themselves hoarse, and the 
 Oxford hats were waved wildly or thrown reck- 
 lessly on high by men who felt that the soldier- 
 ly qualities of the war-worn veteran, might be 
 called into exercise for England's cause again. 
 Following this scene of enthusiasm came prize 
 essays in English, Latin and Greek, with the 
 Creweian Oration by the Professor of Poetry, a 
 post once filled by Keble, and then followed the 
 Newdigate Poem which was listened to with 
 little respect by men who failed to remember 
 that it was Heber's poem on Palestine that first 
 brought this poet and apostolic bishop into 
 notice, and that since then other names now 
 distinguished all over the world had here won 
 their laurels at the outset of their careers. 
 
 Following these exercises the newly-made 
 Doctors of Civil Law with the " Lords and La- 
 
J2 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 dies" who were fortunate to receive a special 
 invitation, lunched in the grand hall of All 
 Souls' College, where Heber's face looked down 
 upon us from the pictured walls, and Jeremy 
 Taylor's portrait told of his connection with this 
 time-honored foundation. The "lunch" was an 
 ample one, and from it a few of us hastened to 
 a fete in the beautiful gardens of St. John's 
 College, under the windows of the temporary 
 abode of Abp. Laud and Charles I., in the 
 troublous times of the great rebellion. Here, 
 music from the band of the Coldstream Guards 
 was mingled with madrigals and glees from most 
 excellent vocalists, while abundant refreshments 
 were offered at every turn. Friday — our last 
 day in Oxford — closed with a charming concert 
 at Magdalen College, where the music was ex- 
 quisite. The choristers of Magdalen are famed 
 throughout England and took a prominent part 
 in rendering a most brilliant selection of songs 
 and glees. 
 
 The hurry of packing up and the interchang- 
 ing of farewells with most kind friends, preceded 
 a few hours sleep and the final "good-bye" to 
 Oxford — a farewell most reluctantly said. 
 
VII. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 THE change was not wholly a pleasant one, 
 from bright and beautiful Oxford, in its gala- 
 dress, to smoky, foggy, dingy London, where 
 the din of toil and traffic is unending and the 
 tide of human life is ever surging through the 
 narrow, crooked streets. But far above the tu- 
 mult and strife of tongues, lifting the Cross 
 where every eye looking for rest and refuge 
 may see it, and towering in its magnificence 
 over the pomp and glory of the world, beside, 
 around, beneath it, rises S. Paul's, the Cathe- 
 
74 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 dial of the noblest city of Christendom. Thither 
 our steps tended, and soon there had gathered 
 to the one hundred and seventy-seventh anniver- 
 sary of the Venerable Society for the Propaga- 
 tion of the Gospel in Foreign Parts, Bishops of 
 the Church of Christ from all parts of the hab- 
 itable world. The Society whose natal-day 
 we had assembled to celebrate, is the oldest 
 Missionary Society of the reformed churches. 
 Founded in the year 1701, it was by this organ- 
 ization that the care of the scattered churchmen, 
 who had settled on our American shores in the 
 colonies, where the Church was not established. 
 was assumed up to the time of the Revolution. 
 This care of the American Colonial Church was 
 a labor of love, embracing colonists and aborigi- 
 nees, and yielded fruit for all time in the plant- 
 ing of countless churches, and the conversion 
 of countless souls to Christ. Since this nursing 
 care has been transferred to other fields, its oper- 
 ations have extended all over the earth. With an 
 income year by year of half a million, with more 
 than a thousand missionary laborers in foreign 
 lands, numbering its converts by tens and hun- 
 dreds of thousands, reporting at the very time of 
 our coming together more than twenty thousand 
 
London. 75 
 
 applicants for Holy Baptism in a single mission 
 field, this Venerable Society has won a name, 
 and wields a power for good, worthy of its years 
 and history. 
 
 The procession formed in the apse of the 
 Cathedral and moved through the cloistered way 
 to the Choir. Vergers with their silver maces, 
 and in their official robes, led the long array, 
 followed by the surpliced choristers, nearly one 
 hundred in number, with the clergy of the 
 Cathedral chapter, each wearing the hood of 
 his academic degree over his surplice. Then 
 other vergers ushered in the procession of Bish- 
 ops, — Missionary, Colonial, and Provincial 
 Irish, Scotch, African, American, and English, 
 — the long line being closed by the venerable 
 and beloved Archbishop of Canterbury, Dr. 
 Archibald Campbell Tait, to whom as "Pri- 
 mate of all England," ranking next to the blood 
 royal, and taking precedence of the highest no- 
 ble of the realm, all portions of the Anglican 
 Communion yield deference and unfeigned re- 
 spect as occupying the seat of S. Augustine, 
 the Apostle of Anglo-Saxon Christianity, and 
 as the worthy head of the hierarchy of the 
 Mother Chinch. 
 6 
 
*]6 Some Summer Days Abroad, 
 
 The vast space under the dome and in the 
 nave and transepts assigned for the congrega- 
 tion, was filled with worshippers who stood 
 while the procession of choristers and clergy 
 passed into their respective places. It was a 
 striking sight. The immense organ was pour- 
 ing forth a flood of melody. The bright sun- 
 light streaming through the painted windows- 
 and tinting with many hues the dome and gal- 
 leries ; the sombre carvings and the sculptured 
 busts or effigies, memorials of England's noble 
 dead ; the sea of upturned faces, and the far- 
 reaching vistas up and around, and on either 
 side of this magnificent temple, all made up 
 a scene of strange attraction, impossible to de- 
 scribe, and yet never to be forgotten. Fifty 
 Bishops, thrice that number of choristers and 
 clergy, and fully five thousand people, with, 
 in addition, many outside the space assigned 
 to the worshippers and yet intent on all that was 
 being done, formed a gathering which was at 
 once unique and suggestive of the greatness of 
 the Reformed Church of Christ, whose leaders 
 and representatives had gathered here from all 
 quarters of the globe. The service was choral 
 and magnificently rendered, the whole assembly 
 
London* 77 
 
 joining in the familiar notes of chants and hymns 
 with one heart and one voice. The sermon was 
 preached by the Lord Bishop of Ripon, who 
 bears the honored name of Bickersteth. The 
 offertory, collected with great difficulty in conse 
 quence of the crowd, was nearly three thous- 
 and dollars. The Bishops, following the Arch- 
 bishop in the order of their consecration, offered 
 their gifts, each kneeling in turn before the altar 
 and placing the offering in the great silver-gilt 
 Almsbasin, presented by the American Church 
 in 1 87 1, to the Archbishop of Canterbury. The 
 vast congregation rose at the presentation of 
 the alms. The Holy Communion followed, the 
 Archbishop being the Celebrant, with the Metro- 
 politan of Sidney, Dr. Barker, as the Epistoler, 
 and the Senior American Bishop present, Dr. 
 Bedell, of Ohio, as the Gospeller. 
 
 It was late when the crowd of the faithful 
 had received the Sacrament of the Body and 
 Blood of Christ, and then the clergy and the 
 choristers retired, reversing their order of en- 
 trance, while the congregation stood quietly till 
 they had passed. It was a noble service, and 
 many a one expressed the conviction that if 
 the Lambeth Conference had only this single 
 
78 Sowr Siivimcr Days Abrocd. 
 
 service, as the result of its assembling, the pro- 
 gress of the reformed faith and its wonderful ex- 
 tent! on throughout the world were attested by 
 this gathering of Bishops from every quarter of 
 the globe, far more forcibly than in any other 
 possible way. Very sweetly and lovingly did 
 the venerable Primate, suffering keenlv from the 
 recent death of his only son, call around him the 
 American Bishops to assure them of his special 
 gratitude for the kind attentions they had ren- 
 dered to this most estimable young clergyman, 
 during his attendance upon the General Con- 
 vention, held in Boston, in 1S77. And then, 
 deeply impressed with the thoughts and feel- 
 ings of the hour, we parted to be met at every 
 turn with most courteous invitations, welcomes 
 and good wishes, attesting the interest felt on 
 every side in this second gathering of Bishops of 
 the Anglican Communion, scattered throughout 
 the world. As we left the Cathedral with a party 
 of friends, who were to dine with Canon Greg- 
 ory, our attention was called to the recent un- 
 earthing of the foundation stones of old S. Paul's, 
 which was destroyed in the great fire, and to 
 the spot where stood the famous " S, Paul's 
 Cross," at which were preached so many reform- 
 
London. 79 
 
 ation sermons, and from which there went out 
 such mighty influences in behalf of England's 
 reformed and primitive faith. There have been 
 three Cathedrals dedicated to S. Paul on this 
 spot, and, if tradition is to be received, the first 
 occupied the site of a heathen temple, clean"- ed 
 and consecrated to Christ. At the Residentiary 
 Houses in Amen Corner, built by Sir Christo- 
 pher Wren, where we were kindly entertained 
 by Canon Gregory, Henry Melville, the Golden 
 Lecturer, lived and died. Outside were traces 
 of the old Roman wall. At our right, Bonner 
 burned the Bibles. On one side was the Sta- 
 tioners' Hall, with its records of the publication 
 of the first folio Shakespeare and the Paradise 
 Lost. One could hardly think of eating or 
 drinking with such surroundings, and on such a 
 spot. And yet, where could one turn in London 
 without evoking these vivid impressions of the 
 past ! 
 
 In the evening, at the Westminster Palace 
 Hotel, there was a "conversazione," under the 
 auspices of the venerable Society for the Prop- 
 agation of the Gospel, at which* the American 
 Bishops were publicly welcomed to London, and 
 each in turn, was called upon for a brief address. 
 
So So?ne Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 On the following day, missionary meetings of 
 great interest were held at S. James's Hall, con- 
 tinuing until late in the afternoon. In the even- 
 ing the Bishop of Pennsylvania, Dr. Stevens, 
 preached a noble sermon at Westminster Abbey 
 on the work of the venerable Society in the colo- 
 nial days of our own land ; thus closing a most 
 interesting series of meetings and services, with 
 fitting and most eloquent words from one who 
 did not fail to do full justice to his theme, and 
 to his country's and his Church's reputation. 
 The morning found us hastening on our way 
 to Canterbury — Canterbury pilgrims to the seat 
 and shrine of Austin, first Archbishop to the 
 Anglo-Saxons, through whom each Bishop of 
 the Anglican communion traces his Episcopal 
 descent, in lineal succession from the Apostles 
 and the Lord Himself. 
 
VIIL 
 
 CANTERBURY. 
 
 IT was fitting that one of the preliminary gath- 
 erings of the Conference should be held at 
 Canterbury, where, on the spot consecrated by 
 the labors of S. Austin, and near the site of the 
 little palace of Ethelbert, his royal convert, now 
 rises that magnificent Cathedral which marks 
 the cradle-home of English Christianity. Here 
 we met on S. Peter's day, assembling first, as 
 seemed most appropriate, at the missionary Col- 
 lege of S. Augustine, which occupies the site, 
 and in part the ancient buildings, of the Abbey, 
 
82 Some Su?nmcr Days Abroad. 
 
 founded by Ethelbert in the first years of the 
 seventh Century. As the hour of service drew 
 drew near, the green-sward of the college quad- 
 rangle was crowded with Bishops from nearly 
 every part of the world. India, China, Aus- 
 tralia, New Zealand, North and South America, 
 the West Indian and other islands of the sea, 
 as well as the shores of the Mediterranean, 
 were each and all represented by the chief 
 pastors of the flock of Christ, each and all 
 receiving loving welcome from their English 
 brethren of one common faith, one common 
 Lord. On this spot, where the faith of Christ 
 and churchly culture first took root in the Anglo- 
 Saxon race, there has in this generation, after 
 years of disuse and desolation, arisen through 
 the princely beneficence of a distinguished lay- 
 man, A. J. B. Beresford Hope, D C. L., a school 
 of the prophets which has sent forth heralds 
 of the cross to continents and islands unknown 
 to Austin and Ethelbert. The service in the 
 College chapel was one of simple choral song, 
 rendered sweetly and effectively by the students 
 and the whole assembly. The sermon was by 
 the Bishop of Western New York, whose name 
 is a "household word" in the ;t old home/ 
 
Canterbury* 83 
 
 where his ""Ballads" and "Impressions," as 
 well as his other and weightier works, are known 
 and valued as by us. The discourse from Heb. 
 iii., 2 : " O Lord ; revive Thy work in the midst 
 of the years," was one not to be described, for, 
 rising to the occasion, it was full of impassioned 
 eloquence such as no one save the poet-preach- 
 er of the American Church could have said or 
 sir g. The Eucharistic Office followed, at which 
 the Archbishop of Canterbury was the cele- 
 brant, giving to his brethren in the Apostolic 
 office the sacred pledges of Christian fellowship 
 and love. Impressive indeed was his solemnt 
 sacramental hour, the bright lune sun shining 
 in through the painted windows, and filling with 
 all the hues of the "rainbow around the Throne" 
 this consecrated spot, where every knee and 
 every heart were bowed. Surely nowhere else 
 could the services of this long-to-be-remembered 
 feast-day have been more properly begun. Hav- 
 ing "joined together in the holiest rite of our 
 commo 1 Christianity," we went forth from this 
 hour of Holy Communion, strengthened and 
 prepared for the further observance of the day. 
 After a luncheon in the common hall of S. 
 Augustine's, between thirty and forty of the Bish- 
 
84 Some Summer Days Alroad. 
 
 ops met in the Chapter House, and then with 
 the long procession of surpliced choristers and 
 clergy passed through the cloisters, and entered 
 the nave of the Cathedral through ihe great west 
 door, which is only opened on occasion c/ the 
 Primate's presence. The spectacle was most 
 impressive. As the long array of Bishops, cler- 
 gy and singing men and boys entered the grand 
 portal, the congregation rose, and the melody of 
 Psalms exxii., exxxiii., and lxvii., — the " Lceta- 
 his sum" the " Ecce qua?7i bonum" and the 
 u Dcus misereatur" — filled aisles and nave and 
 clerestory, up to the fretted roof, with the notes of 
 choral song. Opening ranks, the Archbishop, 
 accompanied by his chaplains, Registrar and 
 Chancellor, in their striking robes of office, an J 
 followed by the long train of Bishops, two by 
 two, moved slowly through the choir, and up 
 the lofty flight of marble steps to the Altar and 
 " Becket's Crown," with the music of the pro- 
 cessional " song of degrees. "' Accompanied to 
 the steps of the Sanctuary by the Dean and 
 Chapter, among whom my dear friend and host, 
 Canon Robertson, the Church historian, stood 
 conspicuous, the Primate took his seat in the 
 u patriarchal chair" of stone, traditionally the 
 
Ca?itcrbury, 85 
 
 seat of Augustine, and, if not actually coaeva 
 with the first days of Anglo-Saxon Christianity, 
 falling but little short of it, and forming one of 
 the. most interesting relics of antiquity, where all 
 around was hoar with age. The Metropolitan? 
 and other Bisho; s passed to their places on 
 either side of th? Altar, from which th.re was 
 a most impressive view of the Sanctuary and 
 Choir, and the crowd of revereni worshippers 
 All was hushed as the Archbishop welcomed 
 his "brothers, representatives of the Church 
 throughout the world, engaged in spreading the 
 Gospel of Jesus Christ wherever the sun shines." 
 No such spectacle had been wi nessed during 
 the twelve centuries and a half, which had 
 rolled slowly by since the first missionary to 
 our Anglo-Saxon fathers began his work foi 
 Christ, on the spot where we were then assem 
 bled. And from the seed here sown, the Chris- 
 tianity here introduced, had sprung a hundred 
 fold harvest from the field there represented, 
 which was the world ! Alluding to these tokens 
 of the Church's growth, the Archbishop referred 
 to the monuments of a chequered history in 
 Church and State, surrounding us, — " Canter 
 bury pilgrims," — in our visit to this sacred 
 
86 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 shrine. On the one hand, the spot where Beck- 
 et fell beneath the murderers' blows was plainly 
 seen, and on the other rose the tomb of the Black 
 Prince, surmounted by the tattered remains of 
 his coat-armour, his helmet, his gauntlets and 
 his empty scabbard. Felicitously alluding to 
 the name of the Cathedral, u Christ Church, 
 Canterbury," given at its solemn dedication by 
 S. Austin, w ho thus " stamped it with the name 
 of Christ, that the thought of the adorable 
 Redeemer might be foremost therein," the Arch- 
 bishop closed his earnest words with the ex- 
 pression of his " special welcome" to his " breth- 
 ren from across the Atlantic," whom he thanked 
 with faltering voice and deep emotion, for cour- 
 tesies extended to his only son, the Rev. Crau- 
 ord Tait, M. A., in whose death all his earth 
 ly hopes had been so lat ly crushed, adding 
 the invocation, iC May God so unite us all in 
 a bond of peace and love while life lasts, that 
 we may all be one in Him and with Him eter- 
 nally." 
 
 The "Evensong" followed, and then, after 
 the vast assembly had withdrawn, with Canon 
 Robertson and Archdeacon Harrison as our 
 guides, we passed through the Cathedral listen- 
 
Canterbury. 87 
 
 ing to chapters of most momentous history, 
 illustrated on the spot where their events tran- 
 spired. There were brought to mind in swift 
 succession, and most vividly, the days and deeds 
 of Ethelbert and Bertha, Austin, and Lanfranc, 
 Anselm and Stephen Langton, the Black Prince 
 and Henry II. We traced the steps trod by 
 Becket as he went slowly to his martyrdom. 
 We stood in the crypt where the penitent King 
 was scourged by the Bishop of London and 
 the Benedictine monks. We noted the traces 
 of the devotion of pilgrims at the shrine of S. 
 Thomas of Canterbury, in stones worn away 
 by kneeling devotees, and saw abundant evi- 
 dences of the old-time splendor of the offerings 
 at Becket's shrine during the period when, as 
 the Primate had just described it, "a sort of 
 semi-paganism was ruling within " these sacred 
 walls. In the lib xxy the untiring Canon Rob- 
 ertson showed us many a bibliographical rarity 
 together with most interesting relics of the past, 
 among which we noted with especial attention 
 S. Dunstan's hand writing, and the crosses 
 made by the pen of William the Conqueror 
 and that of his queen, on the ancient charters of 
 the Cathedral. Thence we passed into the gar- 
 
88 So?ne Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 dens and on to green-sward of the Deanery 
 grounds, shaded by the lofty minster-walls, 
 where were gathered all the notabilities of the 
 Cathedral City. The day was closed delight- 
 fu.ly, after a missionary meeting in S. George's 
 Hall, by a quiet reception at our host's, Can- 
 on Robertson's, where, with our dear friend, 
 Prebendary Bullock, (now, alas for us ! in 
 Paradise), and his wife, the daughter of the 
 late Dean Alford, we were most pleasantly en- 
 tertained. 
 
 On Sunday the Bishop of Iowa preached at 
 S. Martin's, standing on the site, and having in 
 its walls some of the undisturbed Roman ma- 
 sonry, of the Church spoken of by the venerable 
 Bede, as built before the Romans left the Island ; 
 and being without dispute the chapel of Queen 
 Bertha's devotions prior to Austin's coming, and 
 her husband's conversion. How full of memo- 
 ries was this scene and spot. We were wor- 
 shipping on the very ground where the Creed 
 had been said, and the Lord's Prayer repeated, 
 and the words of Scripture and devotion, so 
 familiar to all the Christian world to-day, had 
 been in use since a time when those who had 
 been taught and baptized by the Apostles them- 
 
Canterbury. 89 
 
 selves, had not all fallen asleep. Plain and sim- 
 ple as is this little Church, crowning a grassy 
 slope with the resting places of many a pilgrim 
 on the way to the heavenly Jerusalem on every 
 side, it was rich in associations. It was this 
 little British Church, outside the town, which 
 must have been the first object to meet the eyes 
 of S. Austin and his fellow missionaries, when 
 the clergy and choristers with the tall, silver 
 " cross of Jesus going on before," and the rude, 
 painted panel borne aloft, on which our Saviour 
 was depicted, moved in solemn procession from 
 the coast to Canterbury, chanting " Gregor- 
 ians" and " Litanies," with the words, "We 
 beseech Thee, O Lord, in all Thy mercy, that 
 Thy wrath and Thine anger may be removed 
 from this city, and from Thy holy house. Alle- 
 luia." Entering the city, they worshipped at S. 
 Martin's, and here, without doubt, on the 2d of 
 June, A. D. 597, Ethelbert was baptized, and 
 the old font still standing at the Church's door 
 is a monument of this event. On the follow- 
 ing Christmas-day, so mightily grew the word of 
 God and prevailed, ten thousand Saxons were 
 baptized, — thus Gregory, Bishop of Rome, 
 the friend and Datron of Austin, wrote to the 
 
90 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 Patriarch of Alexandria. Soon the royal con- 
 vert gave his palace and the site of an old 
 Roman or British Church near-by, for the 
 Archbishop's seat and the new Cathedral of 
 Christ Church, — the Church of the Saviour, 
 whose pictured effigy, borne on high, first told 
 the Anglo-Saxons of the love of the Incarnate 
 Son of God. 
 
 Memories of these historic facts filled our 
 mind as we stood in this holy place to tell of 
 the progress of Christ's Church in our West- 
 ern World. Here, as we preached Christ, we 
 seemed united with the Church of the Apostl'e's 
 days. — the one communion and fellowship of 
 the Saints of the Most High. Here, minister- 
 ing in holy things, we could look reverently into 
 the past, and hopefully forward to the future 
 when the Church of Christ thus planted, thus 
 growing, should possess the world itself. 
 
 In the afternoon our beloved uncle, the Bish- 
 op of Pennsylvania, as representing the Amer- 
 ican Church, preached in the Cathedral on 4i the 
 Church of the Living God." This masterly 
 discourse was listened to with marked attention. 
 and brought out the truth fck Tnat the Caurch 
 was the voice of the Living God, speaking, iov- 
 
Canterbury. 91 
 
 ing, working among men." The day closed 
 with pleasant and profitable re-unions of the 
 Bishops, who lost no opportunity of conversing 
 with each other of " the things pertaining to 
 the Kingdom of God." The next morning, 
 with the Bishop of Ohio and Mrs. Bedell, and 
 the Bishop of Pennsylvania and Mrs. Stevens, 
 our own party drove by invitation of the Dean 
 of Canterbury, to Bishopsbourne, the church 
 and vicarage of the Judicious Hooker. Here 
 we walked beside the yew-hedge which he set 
 out, stood reverently by the spot where his ashes 
 rest in hope, and saw the entries in the parish 
 register of the offices he performed. Here in 
 the room where he penned the closing portion 
 of his immortal " Ecclesiastical Polity," and 
 where, wasted and worn, he received his last 
 Sacrament, the Viaticum for the last journey, 
 and in the little Church where he ministered so 
 faithfully the Word and Sacraments, according 
 to the use and rule of the Church he loved so 
 well, we gratefully recalled the life and services 
 of the greatest of the Anglican doctors. All 
 around us were the rose-trees heavy with blos- 
 soms, the clambering ivy, the graceful elms, and 
 the sturdy oaks. Our pilgrimage was closed 
 
 7 
 
92 So me Summer Days Abroad, 
 
 with a lunch at a neighboring manor- hail, and 
 a drive back to Canterbury in a pouring rain. 
 Ere the day was over we were hastening 
 to London and Lambeth, for the opening of 
 Conference was & x pointed for the following 
 morning. 
 
IX. 
 
 LAMBETH. " 
 
 THE Pa'ace at Lambeth is a large irregular 
 pile of buildings, situated on the southern 
 bank of the Thames, and is of various styles of 
 architecture. It has been a Bishop's seat and 
 home for over six hundred years, the foundation 
 of the present palace having been laid by Arch- 
 bishop Boniface about the year 1262. The en- 
 trance is through an arched gateway, erected 
 about A. D. 1490, and flanked by two square 
 embattled towers of brick, commanding the pass- 
 age into the outer court. Passing under the 
 
94 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 beautifully groined arch of the gateway, we 
 noticed on the left a fine old wall covered with 
 ivy and dividing the palace grounds from the 
 Thames, and the favorite promenade known as 
 the Bishop's walk. In front rose the Water 
 Tower, beyond which were the frowning bat- 
 tlements of the Lollard's Tower, so full of mem- 
 ories and mementoes of martyr-deaths, and the 
 even more painful lives of racked and tortured 
 confessors of the truth. On the right were the 
 great hall and palace with their corridors and 
 chambers, the chapel and state departments, the 
 galleries and offices, all making up a picturesque 
 and imposing pile of buildings, which, in their 
 varied architectural details, told of a continuous 
 growth during the successive centuries since the 
 twelfth, and are associated in history with many 
 of the foremost names of English story, as well 
 as with events which can never fade from mind. 
 We gathered in the great dining hall, on the 
 walls of which hang the portraits of the long 
 line of prelates who before or subsequent to the 
 reformation-period, have filled the See of Can- 
 terbury. It was the meeting of men long known 
 to each other by name, but now for the first time 
 brought face to face. Nearly one hundred of 
 
Lambeth. 95 
 
 the leaders of God's Sacramental host were there 
 assembled from all parts of the world. Men who 
 had hazarded their lives for the Lord Jesus ; 
 men who had won a name as authors in well- 
 nigh every department of literature ; men dis- 
 tinguished by administrative qualities ; men of 
 noble birth and antecedents ; men who had 
 grown old in the service of the Master ; and men 
 on whom holy hands had just been laid, set- 
 ting them apart for this office and ministry, were 
 here for the one coming together of th?ir lives. 
 Two by two, robed in their Episcopal habits, 
 and marshalled in the order of their consecra- 
 tion, the Bishops entered the Chapel, which is 
 one of the oldest portions of the Palace, and 
 where the Altar furniture and decorations are 
 the same as, or quite accurately replace, those 
 of the time of Archbishop Laud. Here, where 
 we knelt at the chancel-rail, lies the ashes of 
 Matthew Parker, the first Archbishop of Can- 
 terbury consecrated after the supremacy of the 
 Roman See had been renounced ; and here, on 
 Sunday, February 4th, A. D. 17S7, William 
 White and Samuel Provoost were consecrated 
 respectively Bishops of Pennsylvania and New 
 York, giving to our American Church, from 
 
96 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 the Mother Church of England, the Apostolic 
 Succession, which had been secured by the de- 
 voted Seabury, of Connecticut, three years ear- 
 lier, from the College of Scotch Bishops, in an 
 tw upper room " at Aberdeen. Here, on the 19th 
 of September, A. D. 1790, James Madison was 
 consecrated Bishop of Virginia, thus giving us 
 a full College of Bishops, of Anglican conse- 
 cration, from which, united with the Scottish 
 line, all our Episcopal orders are derived. 
 After the hush of silent prayer, the Vent Crea- 
 tor Sptrttus was sung as an introit, and then the 
 Office of the Holy Communion was begun by 
 the Bishop of London, Dr. Jackson, assisted by 
 the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. Moberly, as Epis- 
 toler, and the Bishop of Winchester, Dr. Har- 
 old Browne, as Gospeller. The Archbishop 
 of Canterbury was the Celebrant. The Arch- 
 bishop of York was the preacher, choosing as 
 his text, Galatians ii., 11 : " But when Peter was 
 come to Antioch, I withstood him to the face, 
 because he was to be blamed." In this striking 
 discourse the preacher, as his comment on the 
 record of an apastolic quarrel, showed us that 
 "the glory of God's great work lay in this — 
 not that the powers, wishes, and passions of the 
 
Lambeth. 97 
 
 actors were petrified into a lifeless uniformity, 
 and the superseding life from heaven took their 
 place ; but rather that using as His instruments 
 men so weak and perverse, He built with them 
 the Church of God." Reminding us "that the 
 Church in the first age grew by the same prin- 
 ciples as it grows by in the nineteenth ; that the 
 very divisions amongst us have their counterparts 
 in the age of the Apostles, and that our dis- 
 putes, like theirs, may be but permitted strug- 
 gles and aberrations of us who are acting out 
 God's great commands, and that all the while 
 He is making perfect the circle of His pur- 
 pose, and accomplishing His Kingdom," — the 
 preacher proceeded to tell us that "the Church 
 has grown, as all things seem to grow, by the 
 life within her striving to perfect itself amidst 
 opposing forces." * * " Lo, even now the 
 Church is growing, and God dwelling in her 
 gives the increase. We seem in deadly peril : 
 there is unbelief on one side, and on the other 
 that deadening system which would hand over 
 the conscience to the priest, and the priest to a 
 mediawal theology, hostile to knowledge and in- 
 capable of change. ' The waves of the sea are 
 mighty, and rage horribly, but yet the Lord that 
 
98 Seme Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 dwelleth on high is mightier.' * * Through 
 strife, but not by strife, the Church has pass- 
 ed upon her way. And we" — proceeded the 
 preacher, addressing his right reverend breth- 
 ren — "meeting a second time in Conference 
 upon the interests of that branch of the Church, 
 which springing from this little island, has so 
 spread over the earth that the sun never sets 
 upon her daughter Churches, we will never ad- 
 mit a doubt that God is with us still. * * 
 And whilst we are resolved to hold fast the faith 
 committed to us, we may endeavour in one 
 point to go beyond our fathers : the candour 
 and the charity that spring from a firm trust in 
 the truth, these should be our aim and special 
 study." 
 
 Tl us was the key-note given to the second 
 Lambeth Conference, in the wise and temper- 
 ate counsels of this admirable discourse, and we 
 left the place where the Sacrament and sermon 
 had each taught us of love and charity, with the 
 needed preparation for our solemn and respon- 
 sible work. Ere we laid aside our robes the 
 somewhat amusing episode occurred of having 
 a photograph, which by-the-bye was remark- 
 ably successful, taken of the great assembly at 
 
Lambeth. 99 
 
 the principal entrance of the Palace. Luncheon 
 followed, and then the Bishops gathered in the 
 hall of the Library, which occupies the site of 
 the Great Hall, built by Boniface six hundred 
 years ago. Re-edified by Archbishop Chichely, 
 in the year i57o-'7i, and repaired by Arch- 
 bishop Parker, it was despoiled and destroyed 
 during the great Rebellion. The present state- 
 ly edifice was erected after the Restoration by 
 Archbishop Juxton, as nearly as possible in 
 accordance with the style of the former struc 
 ture. It is a lofty building of brick strength- 
 ened with buttresses and ornamented with cor- 
 nices and quoins of stone. From the centre ol 
 the roof, which is upwards of fifty feet in height, 
 rises a lantern, at the top of which are the arms 
 of the archiepiscopal see, impaling those of Jux- 
 ton, and surmounted by the mitre. Rows of 
 lofty windows filled with the armorial bearings 
 of successive Primates, interspersed with bits 
 of rare old stained glass, light up the alcoves 
 which are crowded with bibliographical treas- 
 ures, MSS., illuminated missals, chronicles, 
 chartularies and many of the htcunabula or 
 earliest printed books of Gutenberg and Faust 
 abroad, and Caxton, Wynkyn de Worde, Pynson 
 
ioo Some Sum?ncr Days Abroad. 
 
 ■and others at home. Under the magnificent roof 
 of carved oak and chestnut, and amidst this in- 
 valuable collection of MSS. and printed books, 
 preparations had been made for the sittings of 
 the Conference. The Primate's seat was placed 
 at the end of the library hall, while on either 
 side were the Archbishops of York, Armagh 
 and Dublin. In front were the Primates of 
 Scotland, the Metropolitans of Canada, Sydney, 
 Christ Church, (New Zealand), Capetown and 
 Rupertsland, and the Senior Bishop of our own 
 Church, who was first the Bishop of New York, 
 Dr. Potter, and later the Bishop of Delaware, 
 Dr. Lee. At the Secretaries' table were the 
 Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, the learned 
 Dr. Ellicott, whose exegetical works are so well 
 known throughout the Church, and the Bishop 
 •of Edinburgh, Dr. Cotterill, also favorably 
 known as an author, while the Lay Secretary, 
 Dr. Isambard Brunei, the Chancellor of the 
 Diocese of Ely, with the short-hand reporters, 
 occupied positions in the nearest alcove at the 
 left. In front of the officers, and occupying two- 
 thirds of the length of the library, which is be- 
 tween ninety and a hundred feet in extent, with 
 books of reference all around them, and tables 
 
Lambeth. 101 
 
 for writing within easy access, sat the assembled 
 Bishops, in all numbering thirty-five from Eng- 
 land, nine from Ireland, seven from Scotland, 
 nineteen of our own Church, including our col- 
 ored brother of Haiti, ten from the British pos- 
 sessions at the north of us, three from India, four 
 from the West Indies, three from Australia, two 
 from New Zealand, five from South Africa, two 
 from South America, and one from the shores 
 of the Mediterranean. Thus were we arranged, 
 and in this historic hall we met day by day, 
 nfter the daily prayers had been said in the 
 Chapel, and discussed the various subjects pre- 
 viously chosen for consideration. At the first 
 business session, after prayers, the Archbishop 
 delivered an impressive address, and the Con- 
 ference was thus formally opened. 
 
 The first subject assigned for consideration 
 was "The best mode of maintaining Union 
 among various Churches of the Anglican Com- 
 munion." Two speakers, one of the English 
 and the other of the American Church, had been 
 designated by the Archbishop to open the dis- 
 cussion and the Conference the Bishop of Win- 
 chester, Dr. Harold Browne, being appointed to 
 move the resolution, and the Bishop of Iowa to 
 
102 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 second the same. I had, in common with most 
 of the American clergy of the present generation, 
 studied the learned work of Dr. Harold Browne, 
 or the XXXIX Articles, in my preparation for 
 holy orders, and it was with no little hesitancy 
 that I accepted the Primate's invitation to follow 
 one so noted for scholarship and forensic power. 
 But we met on the common ground of the Epis- 
 copate, and the fullest attention was accorded to 
 my remarks, the points of which were subse- 
 quently incorporated in the report of the Com- 
 mittee, of which the Bishop of Iowa was also 
 appointed a member, as being " of great im- 
 portance for the maintenance of union among 
 the Churches of our Communion." The discus- 
 sion continued fill the adjournment, when the 
 subject-matter was formally referred to the com- 
 mittee of which I have already spoken. Day 
 after day of amicable and most interesting delib- 
 eration followed. The main questions consid- 
 ered were these, the first having already been 
 named : — "Voluntary Boards of Arbitration for 
 Churches for which such an arrangement may 
 be applicable," comprising the subject of Courts 
 of Appeal in Ecclesiastical cases, whether of dis- 
 cipline or of disputed doctrine. "The relation 
 
Lambeth. 103 
 
 to each other of Missionary Bishops, and of 
 Missionaries of various branches of the Anglican 
 Communion, acting - in the same country," com- 
 prehending, among other matters, the question 
 as to the adoption of a uniform Book of Com- 
 mon Prayer in cases where, as in China and 
 Japan, missionaries of the English and Amer- 
 ican Churches are working side by side, formed 
 the next subject under consideration. The mat- 
 ter of conflicting jurisdiction where Bishops of 
 the two communions, as in the countries re- 
 ferred to, are sent by their respective Churches 
 into the same territories, was also considered un- 
 der this head, as was also the extent of Episco- 
 pal control over clergy and catechists appointed 
 and supported by voluntary organizations and 
 societies; and the question of the appointment 
 of Bishops for races. "The position of Anglican 
 Chaplains and Chaplaincies on the continent of 
 Europe and elsewhere," was also considered, 
 comprising the questions arising as to the estab- 
 lishment of chapels for foreign residents and 
 travellers on the continent, whether English or 
 American, and incidentally, the provision of 
 Episcopal supervision for a reform movement 
 in Spain and Portugal. The important subject 
 
104 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 of infidelity received grave consideration, the 
 discussion under this head being undoubtedly 
 the most brilliant of all. The position which the 
 Anglican Church should assume toward the " Old 
 Catholics," and also with respect to individual 
 reformers on the continent, as well as towards 
 converts from the Armenian and other Christian 
 communities in the East seeking fellowship with 
 us : the relations of the Church to the Moravians, 
 together with certain matters referring to the 
 West Indian dioceses, the Church in Haiti, the 
 law of marriage and divorce as affected by local 
 legislation, a Board of Reference for matters 
 connected with Foreign Missions, and difficulties 
 arising from the revival of obsolete forms of R't- 
 ual, and from erroneous teaching on the subject 
 of Confession, were all subjects of especial dis- 
 cussion, and the results of all these meetings, 
 so far as formulated in reports and approved by 
 unanimous voice and vote, I have in my Epis- 
 copal address brought before the clergy and laity 
 of my diocese. The authoritative report of 
 the Conference of the "Archbishops, Metro- 
 politans, and other Bishops of the Holy Cath- 
 olic Church, in full communion with the Church 
 of England, one hundred in number, all exercis- 
 
Lambeth. 105 
 
 ing superintendence over Dioceses, or lawfully 
 commissioned to exercise Episcopal functions 
 therein," closes with these words: 
 
 "We do not claim to he lords over God's 
 heritage, but we commend the results of this, our 
 Conference, to the reason and conscience of our 
 brethren, as enlightened by the Holy Spirit of 
 God, praying that all throughout the world who 
 call upon the name of our Lord Jesus Christ, 
 may be of one mind, may be united in one fel- 
 lowship, may hold fast the Faith once delivered 
 to the Saints, and worship their one Lord in the 
 spirit of purity and love." 
 
 At the close of the session on Friday, July 5th, 
 the Conference took a recess for the purpose of 
 giving time for the preparation of the reports of 
 the various committees to which the subjects 
 discussed on the floor of the Conference had 
 been assigned. The committee of which I was 
 a member met for three days at Farnham Castle, 
 the Bishop of Winchester's palace, in Sussex, 
 an ancient Episcopal castle, with terraced lawn, 
 shadowed by cedars, skirting the stately park, 
 and concealing in part the shattered keep. The 
 interim before the re-assembling of the Confer- 
 ence for its final session, which extended from 
 
106 So?ne Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 the 22d to the 26th of July, inclusive, together 
 with the unused hours of the days of meeting 
 themselves, were largely given to social enter- 
 tainments, in which the unbounded hospitality 
 of our English hosts knew no stint. Breakfasts 
 at Lord Cranbrooke's, to meet the Duke of 
 Richmond and Gordon, Earl Beauchamp, and 
 others ; at the Rt. Hon. J. E. Hubbard's, to 
 meet the Archbishops and Bishops ; at Mr. Ber- 
 esford Hope's, a brother-in-law of Lord Salis- 
 bury, to meet several of the nobility and Bish- 
 ops ; dinners at the Archbishops of Canterbury 
 and Armagh, at the Bishops of London, Ely, 
 and others, at the Lord Mayor's, in the cele- 
 brated Egyptian Hall of the Mansion House, at 
 the "Charterhouse," where we were most kindly 
 entertained throughout the Conference by its 
 learned master, Dr. Currey ; garden parties at 
 Fulham and Kensington Palaces, at Mr. John 
 Murray's, the celebrated publisher, at the Dean 
 of Westminster, Dr. Stanley's; evenings at the 
 Baroness Burdett Coutts', the Bishop of Glou- 
 cester and Bristol, Dr. Ellicott's, and others ; 
 conversaziones at the Westminster Palace Hotel 
 and King's College, were among those I espe- 
 cially recall. On Sundays the visiting Bishops 
 
Lambeth. 107 
 
 were assigned to the various London Churches, 
 and busy as I often am at home, I found myself 
 again and again called upon for even more abun- 
 dant services in Churches in London and its 
 vicinity, and in several of the most noted Ca- 
 thedrals. Thus passed the days of a month ever 
 to be remembered. The end came at length, 
 and after the expression of thanks to the Arch- 
 bishop to whose most impartial and pains-taking 
 presidency the Conference owed much of its un- 
 animity, as well as the urbanity and decorum 
 which characterized the proceedings from first to 
 last, the members of the Second Lambeth Con- 
 ference knelt together for the last time in the 
 place of their deliberations for prayer and bene- 
 diction, gratefully acknowledging the presence 
 and the power of Him "who maketh men to be 
 of one mind in an house." 
 
 On the following day, Saturday, July 27th, 
 the closing public services were held in S. Paul's 
 Cathedral. It was a day long to be remembered. 
 Nearly all of the hundred Bishops were pres- 
 ent, meeting at the great west door of the Cathe- 
 dral the Archbishop of Canterbury and his 
 Chaplains, together with the Dean and Chap- 
 ter of S. Paul's. The American Bishops, as 
 8 
 
10S Some Slimmer Days Abroad. 
 
 specially the guests of the English prelates, had 
 from the first been assigned in the order of their 
 consecration to the care and courtesy of their 
 brethren of corresponding seniority in the Epis- 
 copate, and in the long train of choristers, clergy 
 and prelates, I walked, as on other occasions, 
 with the Lord Bishop of Ely, Dr. Woodford* 
 well known as the friend and biographer of 
 Bishop Wilberforce. The scene was as pictur- 
 esque as it was unprecedented. Passing through 
 the thousands who had gathered to the service,, 
 the procession was one which could never have 
 been assembled before. It was a fitting close to 
 a most momentous gathering. The sermon was 
 preached by my beloved uncle, the Bishop of 
 Pennsylvania, Dr. Stevens. The theme was 
 the attractions of the cross. The text was from 
 S. John, xii , 32: "And I, if I be lifted up 
 from the earth, will draw all men unto Me."" 
 An "Uplifted Christ" was held up before us as 
 the remedy for evil in the heart, evils within the 
 Church, evils in the world at large. This elo- 
 quent discourse, which won the praise of all 
 who listened to it, as its author had earlier won 
 the hearts of all with whom he had been brought 
 in contact, closed with these earnest words, af- 
 
Lambeth. 109 
 
 ter a noble apostrophe to the Mother Church of 
 England : 
 
 "The next time, dear brethren, that we 
 meet together, will be before the Great White 
 Throne. Such a thought warns us that we must 
 be watching, waiting, working, until the day of 
 death comes ; and when that shall come, may we 
 each, through faith in the atoning blood of an 
 uplifted Jesus, pass in through the gate into the 
 Celestial City, and hear from the lips of Him 
 who sitteth upon the Throne, 'Well done, good 
 and faithful servant, enter thou into the joy of 
 thy Lord.'" 
 
 Matins had been earlier said, and the solemn 
 act of united worship, in which all the members 
 of the Conference were to unite ere parting for- 
 ever, so far as this life is concerned, was pre- 
 faced by the Te Dcum, sung as an introit, fol- 
 lowing the grand processional hymn, familiar 
 the world around, — "The Church's One Foun- 
 dation is Jesus Christ, her Lord." Cold and 
 dead indeed must have been the heart that did 
 not thrill with emotion at such a sight, or beat 
 impressively to the full rich melody of such a 
 song. The service was simply the Eucharistic 
 Office, rendered with all the accompaniments 
 
no Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 of solemn state befitting the occasion and the 
 place ; and the worship, in its deep impressive- 
 ness, its absorbing devotion and simple majesty, 
 seemed somewhat to image forth the adoration 
 ever going on before the Throne above. 
 
 After the sermon, the Archbishops and Bish- 
 ops entered the Sanctuary, and the celebration of 
 the Holy Communion began. The Primate and 
 Metropolitans, with the senior Bishops of the 
 Scottish and American Churches, administered 
 the consecrated elements, and the number of the 
 faithful who pressed forward to receive the sa- 
 cred feast was so great that four consecrations 
 were requisite ere all could be supplied. The 
 service over, the great procession moved in re 
 verse order to the apse of the Cathedral, where 
 a few words were spoken by the Archbishop, 
 who invoked the blessing ot God upon those 
 about him, and in behalf of the Bishops of Eng- 
 land, expressed their heartfelt thanks to the 
 brethren who had come hither from foreign 
 lands, and bade them, in the name of God, fare- 
 well. Thus closed, with prayer and loving 
 words, the Lambeth Conference of 1878. 
 
X. 
 
 The Members of the Conference. 
 
 ANY account of the Lambeth Conference would 
 be confessedly imperfect without some no- 
 tice of its personnel. The members of this 
 body were, from their position, picked men, 
 who from their antecedents and their very indi- 
 viduality could not fail to impress profoundly 
 one who was almost the youngest of them all. 
 
 First and foremost in rank, as he was un- 
 questionably in his presence and "many-sided- 
 ness" of character, was the Primate of all Eng- 
 land, Dr. Archibald Campbell Tait. Saddened 
 
H2 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 and softened by the bereavement which had so 
 lately removed his only son from earth, there 
 was seen in his every act and movement that 
 gentle, affable, and courteous manner which re- 
 vealed the catholicity of an earnest christian 
 character. As the host of a hundred Bishops 
 who recognized in him, if not a patriarchal dig- 
 nity, a pre-eminence willingly and reverently ac- 
 corded to the incumbent of the chair of S. Aus- 
 tin of Canterbury, his evident sympathy with the 
 toils and trials, the prejudices and preposessions, 
 the varying experiences and processes of 
 thought, of his brethren from all over the 
 earth, won a universal admiration not unmin- 
 gled with love. In personal appearance, there 
 was a remarkable combination of the look and 
 manner of the scholar and the courtier. Ever 
 ready in debate, the master of a simple, unaf- 
 fected, but logical and sustained rhetoric, dis- 
 playing in the expression of his own convictions 
 an evident unwillingness that his tastes and pre- 
 judices should be deemed the measure of the 
 Church's liberty, tolerant, fair and equitable in 
 his address and rulings, and at the same time as- 
 tute in feeling the temper of his auditors and 
 brethren, and singularly adroit in the manage- 
 
The Members of the Conference. 113 
 
 mentof one of the most independent and unim- 
 pressible gatherings possible to conceive, the 
 Archbishop's presidency was above praise. 
 While avoiding all appearance of dictation, his 
 presence and position were always felt ; and the 
 harmony and unanimity of the Conference were 
 largely due to his uniform affability and good 
 temper and his masterly leadership. One was 
 proud to recognize in the foremost man of the 
 Anglican Episcopate a Bishop who felt that the 
 dignity of his lawn was by no means comprom- 
 ised by preaching in the open air to the crowds 
 in Covent Garden market, or to the cabmen in 
 a stable yard at Islington, or to the weavers of 
 Bethnal Green. Kindly, thoughtful, consider- 
 ate, this large-hearted prelate endeared himself 
 to each of his American brethren, and im- 
 pressed us profoundly with his eminent fitness 
 for the trying though dignified position he has 
 been chosen of God to fill. 
 
 Beside him sat the Primate of England, the 
 Archbishop of York, a man of noble bearing, 
 formed for leadership, direct and daring in state- 
 ment, impatient of contradiction, ready and often 
 defiant in debate, and speaking with a lion- 
 like voice and an energy of manner compelling 
 
114 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 attention and respect. As a metaphysician, a 
 scholar, an author, a favorite at court, and a re- 
 cognized power among all classes and condi- 
 tions of men throughout his northern Archdio- 
 cese, there was that in Dr. Thompson's pres- 
 ence and speech which commanded the careful 
 hearing of his brethren. Full of generous im 
 pulses, and accessible to all ; dispensing a 
 princely hospitality at Bishopthorpe during and 
 after the Conference ; and doing good service as 
 chairman of several committees while the ses- 
 sion lasted, the Archbishop entered each day 
 more and more heartily into the work assigned 
 to us and constantly grew in the regard and res- 
 pect of his brethren. 
 
 Next to the Archbishop of York sat the Pri- 
 mate of all Ireland, the Archbishop of Armagh, 
 Dr. Marcus Gervais Beresford, a man of noble 
 presence, as well as of noble lineage, who won 
 all hearts by his graceful courtesy to all his 
 brethren, and by the exercise of an open-handed 
 hospitality at his London home. 
 
 On the left of the Archbishop of Canterbury 
 sat the well-known and widely-loved Archbishop 
 of Dublin, Dr. Richard Chenevix Trench. 
 Years and much physical suffering had left 
 
The Members of the Conference. 115 
 
 their trace upon the face of the poet, author, 
 theologian, and almost universal scholar. Rare- 
 ly speaking, but constant in his devotion to the 
 work of the Conference, it was a privilege to 
 sit and see one whose name is held in such high 
 esteem, and whose writings are read and studied 
 all over the English-speaking world. 
 
 Among the Archbishops and Metropolitans, 
 the Primus of the Church of Scotland, Dr. Rob- 
 ert Ed n, Bishop of Moray, Ross and Caith- 
 ness, claimed the especial regard and respect of 
 his brethren from America, who could not fail 
 to remember that from his predecessor we in the 
 Western World received in the person of the 
 first Bishop of Connecticut, the Apostolic suc- 
 cession, up to that time denied us by the Mother 
 Church of England. Without being a skilled 
 debater, Dr. Eden's words were characterized 
 by great prudence, while his broad sympathy 
 and generous bearing towards all branches of 
 the Church Catholic, and his deep interest in, 
 and appreciation of, the struggling reform-meas- 
 ures on the continent of Europe undertaken by 
 those who were seeking emancipation from the 
 yoke of Rome, marked him as a leading mem- 
 ber of the committees to which were entrusted 
 
u6 Some Su?n?ner Days Abroad. 
 
 subjects of this nature, and indicated his attitude, 
 since the close of the Conference, as the bold 
 and ready friend of the celebrated Hyacinthe 
 and the old Catholic Bishops in Germany and 
 Switzerland. 
 
 Among the Metropolitans of the Colonial 
 Provinces, the attention of the American Bish- 
 ops was especially directed to the genial Dr. 
 Barker, of Sydney ; the devoted friend and suc- 
 cessor of the Apostolic Selwyn, Dr. Harper, of 
 Christ Church, New Zealand ; the well-known 
 and beloved Dr. Oxenden, of Montreal, whose 
 religious writings are found in almost every 
 home, as they are certainly translated into almost 
 every tongue of our common Christianity ; and 
 the youthful and attractive Dr. William West 
 Jones, the successor of the lion-hearted Dr. Rob- 
 ert Gray, of Cape Town, South Africa. 
 
 Among the Bishops of the Mother Church, 
 facile fii'inceps, was the scholar and author, Dr. 
 Christopher Wordsworth, Bishop of Lincoln, a 
 man of primitive piety and matchless erudition, 
 whose valuable works in almost every depart- 
 ment of literature reproduce in this nineteenth 
 century the learning and devotion of Andrews, 
 while his fearlessness and zeal are those of an 
 
The Members of the Conference. 117 
 
 Athanasius. Inheriting an illustrious name ; in 
 his youth, at Cambridge, sweeping the Univer- 
 sity of its prizes and honors ; winning fame as a 
 poet, a traveller, a commentator, and an acute 
 observer of contemporary history and manners, 
 lie has made the theological world his debtor for 
 his exegetical, polemic and hortatory contribu- 
 tions, while his personal magnetism has sur- 
 rounded him with the most devoted of friends, 
 and the wisest and most learned fellow workers. 
 
 Of the learned Dr. Harold Browne, Bishop of 
 Winchester, we have already spoken. His va- 
 ried attainments, his readiness in discussion, 
 and the ability and moderation with which he 
 spoke, commanded universal respect. 
 
 The Bishop of London, Dr. Jackson, well- 
 known in this country through the wide circula- 
 tion of his work on " Little Sins," was a con- 
 stant attendant at the Conference, though by 
 no means a frequent speaker. His Episcopate 
 has been marked by firmness, wisdom, and mod- 
 eration, in the midst of peculiar difficulties. At 
 his palace at Fulham, a veritable "moated 
 grange," we were hospitably entertained, as on 
 occasion of an earlier visit to the "old home," 
 and in the society of the Bishop's family we 
 
n8 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 renewed most pleasantly old memories as well as 
 formed and deepened many which will never be 
 effaced. In the library are still many faded and 
 crumbling letters from the Colonial clergy of the 
 past century, addressed from our American 
 settlements to their Diocesan, the Bishop of Lon- 
 don, whose See was held to include all the Brit- 
 ish possessions abroad. Familiar as we were 
 with these valuable historical papers, it was with 
 no little interest that we saw not merely the 
 transcripts which had long been in our hands, 
 but the verba ipsissima, written by the noble 
 men who laid broad and deep, under the favor- 
 ing protection of Almighty God, the founda- 
 tions of the American Church. 
 
 The Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, Dr. 
 Ellicott, noted for his exegetical works, and con- 
 spicuous where all were hospitable and kind for 
 the charm of his entertainments, was one whose 
 vast erudition and mastership of arguments and 
 facts were specially noticeable. 
 
 The eloquent Bishop of Peterborough, Dr. 
 Magee, though speaking but seldom, redeemed 
 the promise of his reputation as the most effect- 
 ive and graceful orator on the bench of English 
 Bishops. 
 
The Members of the Confereitce. 119 
 
 We met the venerable Dr. Jacobson, Bishop 
 of Chester, at Fulham Palace, and saw him 
 again in his own home by the side of the river 
 Dee. Years have passed since we had made 
 ourselves familiar with this learned prelate's 
 * scholarly edition of the Apostolic Fathers, and 
 it was a singular pleasure to find in his genial 
 presence and abundant fund of kindly humor 
 that not only a grave and revered Bishop, but a 
 consummate scholar, could be so agreeable and 
 improving a companion and friend. 
 
 The Bishop of Hereford, Dr. Atlay, we had 
 heard years before at S. Paul's, and our pleasant 
 acquaintance, increased by a most delightful visit 
 to his ancient palace on the banks of the Wye, 
 where we spent a Sunday with the Bishop, in 
 the midst of his charming family, is among our 
 most cherished recollections of the Conference. 
 Dr. Atlay is a man of noble bearing, a vigorous 
 speaker, and. in common with his lovely wife, is 
 deeply interested in everything relating to the 
 Church in America. 
 
 Lord Arthur Charles Hervey, the Bishop of 
 Bath and Wells, is a brother of Lord Charles A. 
 Hervey, who had been our host when in Eng- 
 land for the first time. We visited the palace 
 
120 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 of this excellent, judicious and beloved prelate, 
 which is interesting to the antiquarian as retain- 
 ing the moat, and draw-bridge, the crenelated 
 walls, and all the accessories of a mediaeval 
 Castle, while to the Churchman it is specially 
 endeared by its associations with the Apostolic 
 Bishop Ken. The traditional spot where this 
 prelate of primitive piety composed his Morning 
 and Evening Hymns is pointed out in a shady 
 nook alongside the frowning battlements 
 Lord Hervey and his wife, Lady Jane Hervey, 
 entertained the Bishops at their beautiful home 
 with most graceful hospitality. 
 
 The most beautiful and architecturally com- 
 plete of all the Cathedrals of England is Salis- 
 bury, rising in its stately perfection from a most 
 perfect bit of greensward, which with its sur- 
 roundings of Palace, Deanery, and the other 
 official residences, forms the u close." Here we 
 met and were charmingly entertained by Bishop 
 and Mrs. Moberly in their home, among the 
 clambering vines and roses. The Bishop, for 
 many years the Head Master of William of Wyke- 
 ham's Winchester School, and widely known in. 
 America as the author of some very valuable 
 theological works, was among the most influen- 
 
The Members of the Conference, 121 
 
 tial of the members of the Conference. Con- 
 spicuous for his learning, his prudence, his 
 wise judgment, combined with a most persua- 
 sive oratory, he displayed great gentleness and 
 sweetness of manner, winning all hearts. Ven- 
 erable in his appearance, he is still vigorous in 
 the discharge ol" his episcopal duties, while his 
 active and acute mind has known no loss of its 
 power or grasp of thought. 
 
 Among the Scotch prelates, the Bishop of S. 
 Andrew's, Dr. Wordsworth, the brother of the 
 Bishop of Lincoln ; the Bishop of Edinburgh, 
 Dr. Cotterill, one of the Secretaries of the Con- 
 ference, and the Bishop of Argyll and the Isles, 
 Dr. Mackarness, brother of the Bishop of Ox- 
 ford, were specially noticeable. Of the Irish 
 Bishops, the eloquent Dr. Alexander, Bishop of 
 Derry ; the learned Dr. Fitzgerald, Bishop of 
 Killaloe; and our old friend and associate at 
 the Old Catholic Conference at Bonn in 1S75, 
 Lord Plunkett, Bishop of Meath, were the most 
 prominent. 
 
 Very dear to all the American Bishops was 
 Dr. Medley, Bishop of Fredericton, and, since 
 the Conference, the successor of Dr. Oxenden, 
 as Metropolitan of the British North American 
 
122 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 Dioceses. Well known to us from his occa- 
 sional presence at our synodical gatherings, he 
 was evidently the foremost among the Colonial 
 Bishops, and his incisive arguments, his fearless 
 expression of opinion, and his far-seeing and wise 
 counsel were always listened to with profound 
 respect. Our old friends, the Bishops of Onta- 
 rio, Huron and Niagara, were occasional speak- 
 ers and contributed not a little to the interest of 
 the Conference. 
 
 Of the younger Bishops, Dr. Copleston, of 
 Colombo ; Dr. Macrorie, of Maritzburgh ; Dr. 
 Webb, of Bloemfontein ; Dr. Mylne, of Bom- 
 bay ; and Dr. Mitchinson, of Barbadoes, were 
 each men of mark. The Bishop of Colombo 
 had entered upon his work on the island of 
 Ceylon with great energy, and all the devotion 
 of a Heber or a Selwyn. Dr. Macrorie was 
 filling with singular prudence the post left va- 
 cant by the deposed Colenso. Dr. Webb was 
 conducting a missionary work of great promise 
 on principles of the primitive age. Dr. Mylne, 
 perhaps the most "advanced" of any of the 
 Bishops present, was distinguished for his learn- 
 ing and absorbing devotion to his work ; while 
 Dr. Mitchinson was able to interest the Confer- 
 
The Members of the Conference. 1 23 
 
 ence in several matters which at first sight 
 seemed of diocesan importance only, but which 
 were found to involve principles of general mo- 
 ment. The Bishop of the Falkland Islands, Dr. 
 Sterling, an amiable and excellent man, of 
 agreeable manners and most attractive presence, 
 was an object of no little interest to all as hav- 
 ing in charge the farthest portions of South 
 America ; while the scholarly and agreeable 
 Bishop of Gibraltar, Dr. Sandford, with whom 
 we had travelled when on the Continent a few 
 years before, was a competent and always in 
 teresting witness of the remarkable movements 
 in the direction of a return to Catholicity which 
 have transpired within the last few years in 
 Germany, Switzerland, France, and Italy. The 
 Bishop of Rupertsland, Dr. Machray, whose 
 jurisdiction of almost illimitable space at the far 
 North has become a Metropolitical See, was also 
 a Bishop whose devotion to the work of Christ 
 had led him to undertake a work requiring fear- 
 ful exposure and vast powers of endurance, 
 willingly entered upon for the sake of the Lord 
 Jesus. 
 
 Of the American Bishops, it is only necessary 
 to say that the Bishops of Ohio, Pennsylvania, 
 9 
 
124 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 and Western New York exercised the widest in- 
 fluence and received the most abundant tokens 
 of respect. Bishop Bedell's graceful and genial 
 manner, the broad Catholicity of his views, the 
 cogent and impressive speeches made on the 
 floor of the Conference, and the finished and elo- 
 quent sermons preached in cathedrals and 
 churches in various places, won for him great 
 praise. Bishop Stevens's admirable discourses 
 at Westminster Abbey, at Canterbury, at S. 
 Paul's, at S. Saviour's, Leeds, and elsewhere, 
 his readiness in debate and the post of honor 
 accorded him as the preacher of the closing 
 discourse at the Conference, proved him to be a 
 central figure among his brethren. Bishop 
 Cleveland Coxe's name in England was as it 
 has long been, "familiar as a household 
 word." In the Conference he spoke rarely, but 
 always w T ith power. Singularly happy in his 
 abundant historical and classical allusions ; dis- 
 playing a minute acquaintance with the men and 
 measures, the controversies and problems of the 
 times ; mingling even with his most prosaic ut- 
 terances the charm of his imagination and the 
 rythmic flow of numbers, his public efforts at- 
 tracted admiring crowds, while in social circles, 
 
The Members of the Conference 125 
 
 or on the public days of our visits to Canterbury, 
 Lincoln, and elsewhere, he lost none of his old 
 reputation as poet, preacher and prelate, in each 
 capacity well deserving the praise of his breth- 
 ren of the old world and the new. 
 
 The wise and cautious Bishop Lee, of Dela- 
 ware, as w T ell as his dignified and widely-known 
 brother of New York, Dr. Potter, received each 
 a fitting meed of reverence, as their years and 
 wisdom claimed. The late Bishop of Louisiana, 
 Dr. Wilmer, was from his originality and many 
 genial qualities, a universal favorite. The Bish- 
 ops of Pittsburgh and Long Island spoke with 
 force and elegance and were listened to with at- 
 tention and respect. The Bishop of Albany re- 
 vived in many minds memories of his father, the 
 Bishop of New Jersey, whose visit to England 
 left impressions which will not soon die out. 
 The Bishops of Nebraska, Central Pennsylvania, 
 and the Assistant Bishop of North Carolina were 
 less frequently heard on the floor of the Confer- 
 ence, but made favorable impressions by their 
 public utterances. The Bishops of Missouri, 
 New Jersey, Wisconsin and Colorado took little 
 or no part in the Conference debates, but were 
 by no means uninterested or unimportant mem- 
 
126 So?ne Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 bers of the Body, and in pulpits and on plat- 
 forms were always received with favor. The 
 Bishop of Shanghai attracted general attention 
 and commanded wide respect from his vast eru- 
 dition, while the Bishop of Haiti, Dr. Holly, 
 from the fact that he alone represented his race 
 in the Conference, as well as on account of his 
 acknowledged abilities, received marked notice 
 and every token of interest and regard. 
 
 From these brief and sketchy outlines of my 
 own impressions of my brethren with whom I 
 sat during the memorable Lambeth meeting, I 
 would turn to other matters incidentally con- 
 nected with my English visit and thus forming 
 a part of my personal narrative. 
 
XI. 
 
 The Charterhouse. 
 
 OUR London home during the Conference was 
 at the Charterhouse, where we were enter- 
 tained as guests of the Master of this noted founda- 
 tion. Here in the midst of the city's din, — with 
 Smithfield Markets just beyond the walls ; with 
 the Bank and Post Office near at hand, and S. 
 Paul's, seen from every point, towering over the 
 confused and crowded streets, in which the busi- 
 ness of the world is ever going on, — green fields 
 abound and shady trees and flowers of every 
 hue attract the eye, while the old-time architec- 
 
128 Some Su?nmer Days Abroad. 
 
 ture of the long rambling halls and cloisters, and 
 the quiet walks of the foundationers, and the am- 
 ple play-grounds of the Carthusian boys, tell of 
 an age long past and of events connecting us with 
 the men and scenes of many centuries. Here, 
 where now a noble charitable foundation of the 
 Reformed Church of England exists, and has ex- 
 isted for several hundred years, once stood a 
 Carthusian monastery dating its origin back to 
 the fourteenth century. 
 
 The legend tells us that at the funeral of a cel- 
 ebrated theologian of Paris, who died in the 
 year 1082 in the odor of sanctity, the obsequies 
 were strangely and solemnly interrupted. As 
 the service was going on, the corpse three times 
 lifted its head from the bier and declared, first, 
 that the dead saint had been arraigned before the 
 bar of Heaven, then that he had been tried for 
 the deeds done in the body, and finally, that he 
 had been condemned by the just judgment of God. 
 Influenced by this strange revelation of the un- 
 seen world, the Chancellor of the Cathedral of 
 Reims, Bruno, a native of Cologne, withdrew 
 from all secular labors and devoted his life to 
 the strictest asceticism. Six personal friends 
 accompanied him in his retreat from the world, 
 
The Charterhouse. 129 
 
 and soon, among the mountains in Dauphine, 
 in a spot difficult of approach and nestled among 
 the clouds, La Grande Chartreuse, so styled 
 from the hills which had been named Chaire 
 Dicu (in modern French Chaise Dieu) arose. 
 The example of Bruno was followed all over 
 Europe, and within less than a hundred years 
 from the institution of this religious order it had 
 extended into England. In the middle of the 
 fourteenth century, A. D. 1345-49, a terrible 
 plague devastated Asia and Europe and caused 
 the death of half of the inhabitants of England. 
 For the purpose of providing a place for the 
 burial of the dead, the Bishop of London pur- 
 chased a field of three acres outside the city 
 limits, and known as "No Man's Land," where 
 he erected a chapel in which masses were to be 
 said for the repose of those buried about its walls. 
 This provision proving insufficient, Sir Waiter 
 de Manny, Lord of Manny in the province of 
 Hainault, purchased thirteen acres and a rod of 
 land, outside the bar of West Smithfield, from 
 the Master and brethren of S. Bartholomew's 
 Hospital, and in this "God's Acre" more than' 
 fifty thousand dead were buried. The founder 
 of this charity was a Flemish nobleman who 
 
130 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 had accompanied Queen Philippa of Hainault 
 to England, on her marriage with King Edward 
 III. His deeds of martial prowess are recorded 
 in the pages of that most delightful chronicler 
 of knightly days, Froissart. The King recog- 
 nizing his follower's merit, made the brave sol- 
 dier a peer of the realm, and a Privy Councillor, 
 as well as a Knight of the Order of the Garter. 
 He was a good Christian as well as a good sol- 
 dier, and, subsequently to the devotion of the 
 "Spittle Croft," erected in 1371 a Carthusian 
 monastery which was completed the following 
 year. At the close of 1372 the good knight died 
 and was buried in the middle of the choir of the 
 monastery chapel. Froissart tells us of the 
 funeral, which was attended by the King and his 
 children, together with the Nobles and Bishops 
 of England. An alabaster tomb, no trace of 
 which exists, marked the resting-place of the 
 worthy Knight ; but his noblest memorial was the 
 religious house he had founded and endowed, 
 and from which there flowed for many years a 
 ceaseless stream of works of charity and devo- 
 tion. While many a religious house was in the 
 laxity of the times sadly diverted from its pious 
 intent, no word of censure ever assailed the fair 
 
The Charterhouse. 131 
 
 fame of the Prior or brethren of Charterhouse. 
 On this holy ground the famed Sir Thomas 
 More, and the celebrated Dean Colet found a 
 temporary retreat from the cares and confu- 
 sions of the world outside. 
 
 It was left for Henry VIII., in his spoliation 
 of the monastic foundations all over England, to 
 sacrifice, not to any religions zeal or political 
 forethought, but to his personal greed, this ven- 
 erable foundation : and on the 4th of May, A. 
 D- 1535, the Prior of Charterhouse, John 
 Houghton, with several of the Carthusian breth- 
 ren, "ready to suffer rather than disobey the 
 Church," were hanged, drawn and quartered, 
 the Prior's arm being placed over the entrance 
 gate of the grounds, in accordance with the bar- 
 barous spirit of the times. 
 
 There are few more graphic or more touch- 
 ing narratives to be found in Mr. Froude's His- 
 tory of England than the description he gives of 
 the last service of the Carthusians in the chapel 
 of the Charterhouse ; and read upon the spot, 
 with the surroundings of the very stones which 
 heard these good men's prayers, and witnessed 
 their heroic devotion to their faith, the vivid re- 
 cital of the historian became almost painful in 
 
132 Some Sum?ner Days Abroad. 
 
 its impression upon the mind. In the confisca- 
 tion of the convent grounds, which followed the 
 execution of a large number of the Monks and 
 the desolation of the house, the property was 
 given by the King to Lord Edward North, and 
 on the accession of Queen Elizabeth to the 
 throne, the Queen resided for some days at 
 Charterhouse, spending here the eventful night 
 preceding her coronation. During Queen Eliz- 
 abeth's reign the property was purchased by the 
 Duke of Norfolk, who resided in this noble 
 house till he was committed to the Tower in 
 1^69 for his projected marriage with Mary, 
 Queen of Scots. The following year he was re- 
 leased and permitted to reside at his palace in 
 the Charterhouse, where for two years he 
 amused himself in adding to the splendor of the 
 building by the enlargement of the great hall 
 and the enrichment of the structure by the addi- 
 tion of magnificent wainscotting, covered stair- 
 ways and galleries, and noble fire-places of most 
 intricate adornment, all of which bearing his 
 cypher or crest, are still among the glories of 
 this ancient palace-home. But unfortunately 
 the charms of the building did not keep the 
 Duke from his intrigues in behalf of the beauti- 
 ful Queen of the Scots, and the discovery of 
 
The Charterhouse. 133 
 
 some seditious papers under the tiles of the roof 
 of the Charterhouse, and beneath the matting at 
 the vestibule of the Duke's bed-chamber, caused 
 this unfortunate nobleman to lose his head. 
 
 On the accession of James, five hundred of 
 the citizens of London, in velvet gowns and 
 wearing chains of gold, with the Lord Mayor 
 and Aldermen, met the King at Highgate, on 
 his approach to the city, on the 7th of May, 
 1603, and conducted him in grand procession to 
 Charterhouse, where he kept his court for four 
 days, making more than eighty knights ; while 
 he shortly after created his host, the son of the 
 Duke who had aspired to his royal mother's 
 hand. Earl of Suffolk. From this nobleman, 
 Thomas Sutton, a wealthy layman of the Church 
 of England, at the instigation of Dr. Joseph Hall, 
 afterward Bishop of Norwich, purchased the 
 property for the purpose of founding a noble 
 charity for young and old. Thirteen thousand 
 pounds sterling was the sum paid for the Char- 
 terhouse, which was endowed with a princely 
 revenue, and in spite of the covetous designs of 
 King James I. and the attempt of Lord Bacon 
 to alienate the property, which, to his credit be 
 it recorded, Sir Edward Coke bravely resisted, 
 the pious designs of the founder were realized. 
 
[34 Some Summer Days Alroad. 
 
 "And thus," to quote an old chronicler of the 
 Charterhouse, "the soil which of ancient time 
 was given by Sir Walter de Manny, a knight 
 and soldier, for the sepulchre of poor men when 
 they were dead, is now by Thomas Sutton, an 
 esquire and a soldier, converted and consecrated 
 to the sustenance of the poor and impotent 
 whilst they live." The foundation provides a 
 school for the young and a home for aged men 
 of character and reputation. The school has 
 long been famous. Here the Poet, Richard 
 Crashaw, and the theologian, Dr. Isaac Barrow, 
 were boys at school. Here Richard Steele and 
 Joseph Addison, the famous John Wesley and 
 Sir William Blackstone, Grote and Thirl wall, 
 Julius Hare and Sir Henry Havelock, Arch- 
 bishop Manners Sutton, John Leech, the carica- 
 turist, and William Makepeace Thackeray* were 
 educated. Thackeray was a Carthusian, and no 
 one who has read "The Newcomes " can forget 
 the touching description this great writer gives 
 of the "Grey Friars" school of his boyhood, 
 and the kindly refuge where the Colonel ends his 
 career. 
 
 The "Master" of the Charterhouse is the 
 Rev. George Currey, D.D., of S. John's College, 
 Cambridge, the author of a commentary on the 
 
The Charterhouse. 135 
 
 Book of Ecclesiastes, and a scholar of distin 
 guished ability and renown. Under hisefficien 
 management the Charterhouse has proved a 
 most useful and noble foundation, as it had been 
 in the past. Eighty " foundationers" have here 
 their home and ample support, till at the call of 
 death the " adsum " is heard as the reply ; while 
 the great school of five hundred pupils, now re- 
 moved to Godalming, outside of London, under 
 the charge of the Rev. Dr. Haig-Brown, is even 
 more flourishing than when in the heart of Lon- 
 don. As of old, it is doing the work the 
 founder desired, yielding results to the glory of 
 God and the good of the Church of Christ. 
 
 1 1 this noble home, with its wonderful carv- 
 ings, its splendid paintings, its walls hung wit^ 
 tapestry, its quaint courts and corridors, its 
 cloistered walks and green squares, its ancient 
 chapel and its inefiacable historical associations, 
 we were welcomed with the ample and unspar- 
 ing hospitality for which the English are noted. 
 From the moment we crossed the threshold of 
 the "Master's Lodge" every effort was made by 
 each member of the dear household where we 
 were so happily domiciled to make us feel that 
 we were indeed at home. To say more would 
 be unnecessary. 
 
XII. 
 
 The Lord Mayor's Dinner. 
 
 AMONG the noteworthy incidents connected 
 with our "Canterbury Pilgrimage," as the 
 Bishop of Ohio felicitously styled our journey 
 to and from the See of S. Austin, was the Lord 
 Mayor's dinner to the Archbishops and Bishops 
 from all quarters of the globe who made up the 
 Second Lambeth Conference. This gathering 
 of prelates in unwonted numbers at a civic feast 
 gove to the occasion so often described, a nov- 
 elty rendering it worthy of record. 
 
The Lord Mayor's Dinner. 137 
 
 The Mansion house, a noble specimen of the 
 style of architecture prevailing in the clays of 
 good Queen Anne, stands in the very heart of 
 the "city." By day it is almost unapproachable 
 from its surroundings of vehicles and the rest- 
 less, busy throng of passers-by, but when the 
 din of traffic and pleasure has gone down with 
 the sun, it is well-nigh deserted in its stately 
 grandeur. Within this palatial home of the 
 highest civic dignitary of London have occurred 
 those well-known feasts of which every one has 
 heard even from childhood, and which have 
 been described by none more happily than by 
 our own Hawthorne. It was not without a 
 pleasant reminding of eariy reading and earlier 
 nursery lore that the Bishop of Iowa and Mrs. 
 Perry received and accepted in due form the 
 polite invitation of the Lord Mayor and the Lord 
 Mayoress to dine at the Mansion House to meet 
 the Archbishops and Bishops. One formidable 
 difficulty stared at least one of the American 
 Bishops in the face. It was the requirement of 
 " full dress" in the corner of the immense card 
 of invitation. What was the "full dress" of an 
 American Bishop? Surely not the 'broidered" 
 purple coat of cut-a-way style, reproducing the 
 
138 So?ne Su?nmer Days Abroad. 
 
 fashion of two centuries since, with the silk 
 stockings and knee-breeches with silver buckles, 
 and "pumps" with buckles to correspond, with- 
 out which no English Bishop ever appears at 
 dinner ! One's limbs could not be thus exposed 
 to unwonted and quite undesirable publicity 
 with only the flimsy protection of the black silk 
 stockings with which our grandfathers of all 
 ranks appeared when in "full dress." And so 
 the bold resolve was taken, in spite of " Mrs. 
 Grundy," to appear in the dress we should have 
 worn at home on a similar occasion, were such 
 an "occasion" possible in Republican Amer- 
 ica. This point settled — and we frankly say that 
 it occasioned not a little discussion among the 
 American Bishops in attendance upon the Con- 
 ference — the rest was comparatively easy. 
 When we were "put down" by the carriage 
 of our kind host, Dr. Currey, who accompanied 
 us, at the Mansion House, and had passed up 
 the long ascent of the grand staircase, — "the 
 Master of the Charterhouse, the Bishop of Iowa 
 and Mrs. Perry," being announced in most sten- 
 torian manner at different points of our progress 
 — at length the splendid reception hall, adorned 
 with carved ceilings and walls, with splendid 
 
The Lord Mayor's Ditiner. 139 
 
 marble fire-places at either end, was reached 
 through a crowd of officials of the household, 
 arrayed in scarlet coats with silver epaulets, and 
 footmen in the city livery of blue and buff, bediz- 
 ened with lace and embroidery. At one end of 
 the spacious hall, supported on either side by 
 the mace bearer and sword bearer in their old- 
 time costumes at once picturesque and amusing, 
 stood the Lord Mayor, gorgeously arrayed in his 
 official robes, with the massive gold collar about 
 his neck, betokening his civic dignity. The 
 Lady Mayoress, Mrs. Owden, a kindly and fair- 
 faced representative of her sex, stood beside her 
 husband, richly dressed and evidently enjoying 
 her position. The simple presentation over, the 
 next matter of interest was to watch the coming 
 of the many invited guests, upwards of three 
 hundred and twenty in all. A folio page printed 
 in gold and colors was in everyone's hands, giv- 
 ing the names of all who were present, and show- 
 ing, by reference to a diagram, the place of each 
 at the long tables, thus affording the means of 
 identifying each one's neighbors at the feast. 
 The civic officers, the aldermen and sheriffs, 
 were in velvet suits, those of a past age, and 
 striking in their quaintness and splendor. The 
 
 10 
 
140 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 clergy wore their academic gowns and cassocks 
 with bands. The nobility present wore their 
 "orders" and decorations. Military and naval 
 guests were in full uniform. The ladies were 
 magnificently attired. The dress required at the 
 court receptions and "drawing rooms" was 
 largely adopted, and as name after name was 
 announced and the guests passed through the 
 long line of those who had already been pre- 
 sented, the scene became one of great interest. 
 Among the numbers present, nearly four score 
 were Archbishops, Metropolitans and Bishops, 
 in whose special honor the feast was given. 
 Music filled up the intervals between the arri- 
 vals of the distinguished guests, and when the 
 moment came for the movement to the "Egyp- 
 tian Hall," where the state dinners are held, it 
 was surprising that in so large a gathering there 
 should be no confusion, no disorder, but a quiet 
 assigrment of each to his designated place — all 
 being ready in a moment for the "grace" said 
 by the Lord Mayor's chaplai . The "menu, ,r 
 which was exquisitely printed and thoroughly 
 artistic in its design and execution, was before 
 us, and the stately feast was soon begun. It 
 was an imposing sight. The immense hall was 
 
The Lord Mayor's Dinner. 141 
 
 flooded with light. The lofty ceiling was sup- 
 ported on rich columns of polished marble. 
 Paintings and mirrors covered the walls, and the 
 gleam of the city's gold and silver plate displayed 
 behind the Lord Mayor's elevated seat was re- 
 flected on every side. Soft music, now from an 
 orchestra of skilled performers, and now from a 
 single harp exquisitely played, interrupted the 
 clash of dishes and the hum of conversation. 
 The long lines of tables, the one occupied by 
 the Lord Mayor, Archbishops, Metropolitans, 
 and their wives, extending along the length of the 
 room, and eight tables placed longitudinally 
 across the breadth of the hall, were completely 
 filled, and the numerous attendants in the quaint 
 livery of the olden-time were busily occupied in 
 the duties of the hour. The grand repast over 
 and the clatter of service hushed, " thanks" were 
 returned by the chaplain and the " feast of rea- 
 son and the flow of soul" began. The " toast- 
 master," from his position beside the Lord May- 
 or's chair of state, at first in most magniloquent 
 style coupling the names and titles of the Lord 
 Mayor and each Bishop present, expressed the 
 gratification of the host at the success of the oc- 
 casion. It would be impossible to convey an 
 
142 Some Sum?ner Days Abroad. 
 
 idea of the struggle of this worthy man with the 
 titles of the American Bishops. Iowa was 
 transformed to u E-o-wah"; Ohio was called 
 "O-e-o" ; Missouri was made akin to "Misery," 
 and Pennsylvania sounded oddly enough as 
 "Pennsyl-vah-ne-ah." These are but specimens 
 and will serve to indicate the puzzle of our Eng- 
 lish friends over our distinctive American names. 
 This amusing preface was followed by the cir- 
 culation among the guests of the "grace" or 
 "loving-cup," which, with all the antique cere- 
 mony of a far-away age, formed one of the 
 unique features of the feast. Recalling the days 
 when death was not infrequently dealt at the fes- 
 tal board, three of the guests stand as the mas- 
 sive silver cup is passed so that no treacherous 
 assault could be made while the unsuspicious 
 victim was deep in his cups. The Lord Mayor 
 taking the loving-cup in both hands turns to the 
 guest by his side, who removes the cover for his 
 Lordship to drink. This done, and the rim of 
 the goblet carefully wiped with a napkin, the 
 guest replaces the cover and receives the vessel 
 into his own hands, and turns to his next neigh- 
 bor, who performs the same kindly office for 
 him, while the next to him stands to wait his 
 
The Lord Mayor's Dinner. 143 
 
 turn. The third removes the cover for the sec- 
 ond to take his draught, and the fourth for the 
 third, the cover being carefully replaced between, 
 and so the long* rows of guests are united in 
 this pledge of love. Next came the cry, " My 
 Lord Mayor, my Lords, ladies and gentlemen ; I 
 pray you silence for the Lord Mayor's speech," 
 and a pleasant address of welcome followed, to 
 which, in the absence of the Archbishop, conse- 
 quent upon his recent domestic bereavement, 
 the Archbishop of York responded in a most 
 felicitous speech. The Metropolitan of Sidney, 
 Dr. Barker, replied to the toast to the Col- 
 onial Churches, and the Bishop of New York to 
 that referring most kindly to the American 
 Church. The Lord Mayor seemed somewhat 
 oblivious of the events of a century ago, sepa- 
 rating a portion of the " colonies" from the Brit- 
 ish empire, but his amusing reference to the 
 American Bishops as "Colonial Prelates" was 
 happily corrected by our good Bishop Potter. 
 The speeches were full of interest, some of 
 them were brilliant ; and the spectacle in this 
 noble hall, with the blazonry of silver and gold 
 making the surroundings of the Lord Mayor 
 and his guests gorgeous, with the glory of the 
 
144 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 great windows of stained glass illustrating 
 epochs of the city's history and illuminated for the 
 occasion ; with exquisite statues in niches all 
 about us, and with the grace and splendor seen 
 upon the floor, was one of striking interest. At 
 length the health of the Lord Bishop of London 
 was proposed, to which Dr. Jackson responded 
 with dignity and point. Taking this as the sig- 
 nal for departure, the banquet was quickly de- 
 serted by the guests, and soon the announce- 
 ment that " the carriage of the Master of the 
 Charterhouse blocks the way," found us, at near 
 midnight, quite ready to accompany our most 
 excellent host to our delightful London home. 
 Through the thronged streets we were rapidly 
 driven, and shortly the hospitable walls of the 
 Charterhouse enclosed us once more. 
 
XIII, 
 
 Lincoln and Riseholme. 
 
 ORE beautiful in our eyes than any other of 
 the Cathedrals of England is Lincoln, "on 
 its sovran height." As the pilgrim to the shrine 
 of S. Hugh approaches the city from the fens 
 and lowlands of the country roundabout, the 
 view of the noble Minster crowning the hill-top 
 and apparently resting on the tops of tall trees, 
 which appear to lift it up on high, seems to be a 
 revelation of a bit of "the holy city, new Jeru- 
 salem, coming down from God, out of heaven." 
 No other Cathedral thus stands out against the 
 
146 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 horizon, perfect in outline and graceful in every 
 architectural detail. The towers and lofty nave 
 were seen in bold relief against the smoky foggy 
 sky as we neared the city, and soon in the Bish- 
 op's carriage, which met us at the station, we 
 were driven up the steep ascent, and beside the 
 beautiful west front, and then under the Roman 
 arch, two thousand years old, and over the 
 Roman road leading to the Bishop's palace. 
 
 Invited as we were to Risholme, the palace 
 of the reverend and beloved Bishop Wordsworth, 
 with whom we had spent several days on occa- 
 sion of one of our earlier pilgrimages to Lincoln, 
 we were welcomed by the Bishop and Mrs. 
 Wordsworth to one of the most interesting 
 " homes" of England. The Bishop's vast col- 
 lection of books filled room after room, and hall 
 and vestibule besides. It was the accumulation 
 of several generations, for the learned Bishop is 
 the son of a noted scholar, the Master of Trinity 
 College, Cambridge, as well as the nephew of 
 the poet. A son of Canon Wordsworth, whose 
 acquaintance we had made before, is a fellow of 
 Brasenose, Oxford, and bids fair, both in schol- 
 arship and literary work, to do honor to the 
 name he bears. Of the ladies of the family, we 
 
Lincoln and Riseholme. 147 
 
 can only say that Mrs. Wordsworth was cer- 
 tainly one of the loveliest women we saw in 
 England, while her daughters, by their charm 
 of manner and thorough culture, make Rise- 
 holme a most attractive spot, and the home-cir- 
 cle there one of the most interesting of the 
 many in which we were fortunate enough to be 
 made welcome. 
 
 . We were just in time for dinner, which was 
 served in the grand hall, the walls of which bore 
 the portraits of the former Bishops of the See 
 from the days of good S. Hugh. There was a 
 pleasant gathering of the Cathedral dignitaries, 
 the neighboring nobility, and Bishops from vari- 
 ous quarters of the world, and the occasion was 
 one of great enjoyment. After the dinner, and 
 when coffee had been served in the long draw- 
 ing-room, the bell rang to prayers and the whole 
 company proceeded to the private chapel of the 
 palace, which was under the same roof and had 
 all the seemly deckings of any house of prayer. 
 The servants, more than a score in number, 
 were all in their places, each with bible, prayer 
 book, and the good Bishop's own hymnal, 
 "The Holy Year," in hand. The Bishop, fully 
 robed, occupied his " stall," and the other Bish- 
 ops were arranged beside him, while the family 
 
148 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 and guests filled the seats about the third side 
 of the chapel, the front of which had its altar 
 with cross and candlesticks and its vesting of 
 embroidered cloth. The service of evening 
 prayer was said by the Bishop's son and chap- 
 lain, the Rev. John Wordsworth, M.A., and 
 the music was rendered by the little congrega- 
 tion, led by the instrumental performance of a 
 daughter of the Bishop. Thus sweetly closed 
 the day, with the dear words of the Church's 
 prayers and praise, and after a pleasant "good 
 night," we were soon in our rooms, wooing the 
 coveted repose of sleep. 
 
 In the morning, after a visit to the parish 
 church and the grave of good Bishop Kaye, 
 whose historical works I had learned years ago 
 to prize, and whose son, the present Archdeacon 
 of Lincoln, I had the pleasure of meeting the 
 night before, we drove into the city, where the 
 Precentor, the Rev. Mr. Venables, took us all 
 over the Cathedral, and Mr. James Parker, the 
 distinguished antiquarian and archaeologist, ad- 
 ded his admirable expositions of the many strik- 
 ing beauties which met our eyes at every turn. 
 It is impossible to describe them or to do justice 
 to the sermon by our own dear Bishop of West- 
 ern New York, which followed a noble choral 
 
Lincoln and Riseholme. 149 
 
 service. It was a splendid piece of oratory from 
 one who never speaks without giving "goodly 
 words." After the service the long procession 
 of Bishops and clergy in their robes, with a 
 crowd of the congregation, proceeded to the 
 grounds of the old palace, now disused and in 
 ruins, adjacent to the Cathedral, where the vener- 
 able Bishop, his pastoral staff in hand, addressed 
 words of special welcome to the Bishops from 
 abroad, concluding with a felicitous reference to 
 the presence of the Historian of the Church of 
 England, one of his own clergy, the Rev. Canon 
 Perry, and the Historiographer of the American 
 Church, the Bishop of Iowa, who bore the same 
 name. Short speeches followed, after which re- 
 freshments were served, and shortly we were 
 rattling over the old Roman flinty pavement to 
 the palace at Riseholme, three miles away. It 
 was hard, the following morning, to leave a spot 
 where every attraction conspired to delay the 
 visitor. Here was a library of thousands of vol- 
 umes, old and new, rare and rarissima. Here 
 were interesting portraits giving the beholder a 
 lesson in English history. Here were letters 
 and manuscript poems of Wordsworth, Southey, 
 Lamb, Byron, Rogers, Campbell, Kirk White, 
 and Tennyson. Here were sweet views of Eng- 
 
150 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 lish rural scenery at every turn, for Riseholme 
 stands apart from the world, and is a charming 
 little world of itself. But the going was a neces- 
 sity, and early though the starting was, it was 
 not too early for the dear Bishop's personal fare- 
 well and blessing, and the gentle presence of his 
 wife, whose sweet courtesy and interest in her 
 guests was thus kindly shown. Sooner than we 
 wished a turn in the road shut out from view de- 
 lightful Riseholme. and we were again hurrying 
 to the station, on our way to Peterborough and 
 towards our London home. 
 
 It was our third visit to this noble shrine, the 
 sepulchre of Katherine of Aragon, and the spot 
 where the mutilated body of Mary, Queen of 
 Scots, rested awhile ere it was laid in West- 
 minster Abbey, not far from the remains of her 
 rival and murderess, Queen Elizabeth. It was 
 a pleasant task to revive in mind and memory 
 the noble Norman arches and columns of this 
 noble Minster, and to point out to those of our 
 party to whom Peterborough was a novelty the 
 wonderful beauty of the west front, with its 
 unique arcade. Reluctantly we passed under 
 the gates of the Cathedral close into the city 
 market-place, and were driven to the station en 
 route for Ely. 
 
XIV. 
 
 Ely. 
 
 WE had been entertained at Ely House in 
 London by Bishop Woodford, to whose 
 courtesy and fraternal care, in the thoughtful as- 
 signment of each American Bishop to an English 
 prelate of corresponding years in the Episcopate, 
 the Bishop of Iowa had been from the first allot- 
 ted, and it was with no little pleasure that we 
 stopped on our way from Lincoln to revisit the 
 Cathedral at Ely, which is one of the finest in 
 England, and where the Dean is no other than 
 the distinguished historian, Dr. Merivale. 
 
 The faith of Christ was introduced into East- 
 
152 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 Anglia near the end of the sixth century, by 
 Redwald, grandson of Ufta, founder of the king- 
 dom. A religious house is said to have been 
 established at Ely about A. D. 604. Etheldreda, 
 a princess of distinguished piety, had as her 
 dower the Isle of Ely, so called from the fact 
 that Ely was built upon the largest of a num- 
 ber of islands rising out of the waters of the 
 Fens. This was in the middle of the seventh 
 century, and on the death of her husband, she 
 founded the monastery which the Danes de- 
 stroyed in A. D. 870. Just a century later it 
 was re-established by the Bishop of Winchester. 
 Here it was, as an old English poem recites, that 
 
 Merrily sang the monks within Ely, 
 When Canute, the King, rowed thereb}'; 
 
 and the monarch bade his knights rest on their 
 oars, while they listened to the music of the ves- 
 per song. 
 
 The present Cathedral was begun by Simeon, 
 the first Norman abbot (1082-1094) ; and prior 
 to 1 107 it was so far complete as to be conse- 
 crated to S. Peter and S. Etheldreda, the pious 
 Queen, to whom the establishment of the first re- 
 ligious house in the Isle of Ely was due. The 
 ''Galilee" porch was built 1198-1215 and the 
 Norman choir was rebuilt 1 235-1 252. The cen- 
 
Ely. 153 
 
 tral tower fell in 1322, and the octagon, which 
 replaced it, was completed in 1328. The lan- 
 tern was added between that time and 1342. 
 The western part of the choir, ruined by the 
 fall of the tower, was rebuilt about 1338. The 
 Lady-chapel was begun in 1321 and finished in 
 twenty-eight years. There is no Cathedral in 
 England which possesses finer examples of the 
 various successive styles of ecclesiastical archi- 
 tecture than that of Ely. The Norman portion of 
 the building — the nave and transepts — is lighter 
 in character than earlier examples of the same 
 style. In fact, it bears many traces of transition 
 from the round to the pointed style. Of each 
 of the three periods of this pointed or Gothic 
 style of architecture, Ely possesses pure and per- 
 fect specimens. The Galilee, or Western Porch, 
 was built when the first or English style was per- 
 fected. The Octagon, three bays of the choir 
 and the Lady Chapel, were built when the second 
 or decorated English prevailed ; and the chapels 
 of Bishops Alcocke and West when the third or 
 perpendicular style was adopted. The Cathe- 
 dral thus illustrates the history of church archi- 
 tecture from the Conquest to the Reformation. 
 As one enters, the words of Isaac Williams 
 occur to mind : 
 
1^4 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 ''Without, the world's unceasing noises rise, 
 Turmoil, disquietude and busy fears; 
 Within, there are the sounds of other years, 
 Thoughts full of prayer and solemn harmonies." 
 
 The porch is, perhaps, a disfigurement in its 
 place, hiding as it does, somewhat of the grand 
 west front, but it brings out the noticeable points 
 of the Cathedral, which are the great length, 
 565 feet, the noble appearance of the lofty arches, 
 and the sublime grandeur of the whole effect, as 
 seen on crossing the threshold. Pausing at the 
 Baptistery, we cannot fail to notice the magnifi- 
 cence of the columns of the nave, which, purely 
 Norman though they are, combine ornament 
 and exquisite beauty hardly excelled by the more 
 florid styles of architecture elsewhere seen. En- 
 tering the choir, we look up to note the deco- 
 rated Lantern, gorgeous in its coloring, and then 
 the eye is caught by the exquisite reredos, giving 
 in tinted alabaster the five scenes of our Lord's 
 passion, with accompanying tracery-carving of 
 marvelous beauty. The altar, resplendent with 
 its cloth of richest embroidery, thus finds its fitting 
 back-ground, and the whole effect of the sanc- 
 tuary is at once uplifting and eloquent of the 
 Divine mysteries which here have their shrine. 
 The chapels of Bishops Alcocke and West are 
 each marvels of carved work, while the Lady 
 
Ely. 155 
 
 Chapel, a noble structure added at the north side 
 of the choir, must have been, ere its spoliation by 
 the Puritans, one of the grandest temples in 
 England. It is, or rather was, a mass of most 
 delicately and tastefully carved stonework, but 
 not a figure out of thousands has escaped the 
 mutilation of men who deemed that they were 
 doing God service when they destroyed the 
 carved work of His house "with axes and ham- 
 mers." That which the reverence of one age 
 had lovingly offered to beautify the shrine of the 
 Most High, the irreverence and intolerance of a 
 later day wantonly destroyed. Upwards of three 
 hundred thousand dollars have been expended 
 within the past few years in restoring somewhat 
 the old glory of this glorious fane ! About 
 the Cathedral, for we will not attempt to des- 
 cribe it, are many of the old buildings still used 
 by those who serve in the house of the Lord. 
 The palace of the Bishop is close at hand, and 
 forms an imposing and appropriate adjunct to 
 the west front. The King's College, near by, 
 and the homes of the Dean and Canons, are por- 
 tions of the old buildings, and reproduce in whole 
 or in part the Infirmary, the Cloisters, the Chap- 
 ter House, and the other edifices of a great re- 
 ligious community. Quaint enough is the mosaic 
 
 11 
 
156 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 the walls of these houses present. Noble Nor- 
 man arches, with the striking dog-tooth orna- 
 mentations of early English pointed tracery, 
 filled in with brick or stone, make the side of a 
 modern English home, and from under a bit of 
 old-time groining there looks out of a latticed 
 window a bright-faced English maiden, decking 
 herself for the evening repast, or a walk through 
 the close. Amidst the tall columns cut and 
 placed more than eight hundred years ago, is a 
 modern kitchen, and the air is savory as we pass. 
 Ferns and flowers but half conceal a broken 
 "gargoyle," which was carved by men whose 
 very sepulchres of hewn stone have crumbled 
 into dust. The old and the new meet at every 
 turn, and oppressed by a sense of what we have 
 seen, we hasten from the noble masonry of Nor- 
 man or old English days to take the train for the 
 next stage of our pilgrimage, if indeed we are 
 pilgrims, whose only staff is the ever-present 
 umbrella, and whose scrip has sovereigns or 
 Bank of England notes stuffed within, instead 
 of the more pilgrim-like crust of bread or dole of 
 alms. Within the old walls we seem for a mo- 
 ment to live in the past. Outside, the present 
 asserts its claim upon us. 
 
XV. 
 
 Cambridge. 
 
 IT was at "high noon" on a most oppressive 
 summer day that we reached the vast plain 
 embosomed in lofty trees where lies the ancient 
 town of Cambridge. The ride from London 
 had been hot and dusty almost beyond endur- 
 ance, and it was with a sense of great relief that 
 we exchanged our stuffy and stifling '* first- 
 class" railway carriage for the open u fly," 
 which quickly bore us to our comfortable inn. 
 
 " Onward we drove beneath the Castle; caught 
 
 While crossing - Magdalene Bridge, a glimpse of Cam ; 
 And at the Hoop alighted, famous Inn." 
 
 Wordsworth : The Prelude. 
 
158 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 The "Hoop" no longer claims the foremost 
 place among the hostelries of the University 
 town, but it had been the resting-place of 
 Wordsworth, and had honorable mention in his 
 "Excursion," and so we shut our eyes to the 
 superior attractions and longer reckonings of 
 the "Bull," itself referred to in Milton's verse, 
 and were soon happily and comfortably domi- 
 ciled in the quarters which had been ours only 
 a few years before. Soon, refreshed and impa- 
 tient to renew the memories of our earlier ram- 
 bles through the town, we were threading our 
 way among the winding, labyrinthal streets and 
 lanes, over which for nearly nine centuries the 
 feet of scholars and students have trod. 
 
 Our way led through the Master's Court be- 
 side the "Lodge" where the famous William 
 Whewell, Master of Trinity, lived and died, to 
 S. John's Gateway. Through this massive por- 
 tal, bearing on its front the sculptured "Tudor 
 rose" and Beaufort portcullis, with the Crown 
 and "Marguerite" interspersed, the quaint de- 
 vice of the Foundress, Lady Margaret Beaufort, 
 Countess of Richmond and Derby, and mother 
 of King Henry VII., we entered the first and 
 oldest court. Glancing, as we passed, at the 
 magnificent chapel, a late erection from designs 
 
Cambridge. 159 
 
 by the celebrated Sir Gilbert Scott, we hastened 
 through the successive quadrangles and over the 
 cloistered bridge, spanning the Cam with its 
 single arch, and beyond the gateway with its 
 exquisitely groined roof of stone, sought the Col- 
 lege grounds, where we rested amidst the most 
 picturesque surroundings possible to conceive. 
 The bold and massive river front of the quad- 
 rangle through which we had come ; the noble 
 lantern-tower, rising one hundred and twenty 
 feet ; the bridge which in itself is a charming bit 
 of architecture ; the river mirroring all about its 
 banks, — bridge, tower, and the waving flowers 
 and shrubs on either side ; the long reach of 
 meadows with the soft greensward relieved by 
 shady trees artistically grouped or standing out 
 in solitary grandeur ; all made up a most attrac- 
 tive scene, needing but the nightingale's note, 
 which we had once heard in these grounds, to 
 make our pleasure perfect. Here we sat on the 
 grassy terraces with our pleasant party, among 
 whom were the Bishop of Pennsylvania and 
 Airs. Stevens, until the light of day had faded 
 out, and then "taking boat," we spent a lovely 
 English -twilight hour rowing up and clown the 
 Cam. Crowds of pleasure- seekers filled the 
 walks on the banks, or with us enjoyed the cool 
 
160 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 of the evening on the narrow stream, till at 
 length the lights faded out, the voices of the 
 wanderers ceased, and as the evening bell rang 
 its "curfew" note, we left the grounds ere the 
 gates were closed and silence reigned within. 
 At S.John's, "rare Benjonson," Robert Her- 
 rick, Thomas Otway, Matthew Prior, Mark 
 Akenside, Henry Kirk White, and William 
 Wordsworth, all poets of renown, were stu- 
 dents ; while in other walks of life, we reckon 
 up the historic names of statesmen, authors and 
 scholars whose deeds and words are part of 
 England's heritage of glory from the past. Ce- 
 cil, Lord Burleigh ; Wentworth, Earl of Strat- 
 ford ; Thomas Sutton, founder of the " Charter- 
 house"; William Wilberforce, the Christian 
 philanthropist, were educated here, and from 
 the quiet cloisters of S.John's, Henry Martyn, 
 leaving every earthly prospect behind him, went 
 forth to die as a humble missionary in a distant 
 land, and in his death to win an earthly immor- 
 tality. 
 
 Several days were devoted to the various col- 
 leges and churches of this interesting town. 
 vSide by side with S.John's stands Trinity, the 
 noblest collegiate foundation in the World, 
 whether we consider the number of its mem- 
 
Cambridge. 161 
 
 bers, the extent and grandeur of its buildings, 
 or the long roll of illustrious men who have 
 been educated within its walls. The "King's 
 Gateway" stands at the entrance of this " royal 
 and religious foundation," dedicated "in honor 
 of the Holy and Undivided Trinity," and bears — 
 amidst canopies and elaborate tracery-work, sur- 
 rounding and supporting the armorial bearings 
 of kingly and noble founders and benefactors, — 
 a statue of bluff Henry VIII., while within are 
 the effigies of King James I., with his Queen 
 and son, afterwards the unfortunate Charles I. 
 There are four courts, the first being the most 
 spacious collegiate quadrangle in the world, 
 and with its grouping of the Chapel, the Mas- 
 ter's Lodge, the lofty Conduit or Fountain, and 
 the Hall and Combination Room of various 
 styles of early English architecture and pur- 
 posely differing in details as well as in pictur- 
 esqueness, it affords one of the most impressive 
 sights in Cambridge. In the Ante-Chapel are 
 grouped statues of the highest order of merit of 
 Lord Bacon, Sir Isaac Newton, Dr. Barrow, 
 and Lord Macaulay, each a student of "Trinity." 
 The carving of the stalls of the choir is the 
 work of the celebrated Grinding Gibbons, whose 
 fruit and flowers seem to rival nature's work. 
 
162 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 In this chapel on "Surplice days," at the choral 
 service, one can see a "band of white -robed 
 scholars," numbering upwards of five hundred, 
 kneeling at once in common prayer. The lib- 
 rary contains Thorwaldsen's beautiful statue of 
 Lord Byron. Here are the autograph originals 
 of Milton's Masque of Com us, Arcades and 
 Lycidas, and three different plans of Paradise 
 Lost, each in turn discarded by the poet. Here 
 too is the Codex Augiensis, a Greek and Latin 
 manuscript of S. Paul's Epistles, upwards of a 
 thousand years old, From this renowned foun- 
 dation of letters and learning have come Bacon, 
 Barrow, Newton, and Porson, among the pro- 
 found philosophers and scholars of the world. 
 Its poets are the quaint and affected Donne, 
 the divine Herbert, Cowley, Dryden, Crabbe, 
 Byron, and latest but not least, Tennyson. 
 
 " Fairer seems the ancient College, and the sunshine 
 seems more fair; 
 That he once has trod its pavement, that he once 
 has breathed its air." 
 
 Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, Queen Eliza- 
 beth's favorite and victim ; Erskine, Lord High 
 Chancellor ; Macaulay and Whewell, each re- 
 nowned in his own particular sphere, may be 
 added to the list, and these are but a few of the 
 
Cambridge. 163 
 
 many names of " Trinity" men which the world 
 will not sutler to be forgotten. 
 
 Next to Trinity, we come to Gonville and 
 Caius College, the latter name being pro- 
 nounced "Keys," its most common designation. 
 This old foundation, dating back its origin to 
 A. D. 1348, we enter by the " Gate of Humility," 
 the entrance having the inscription, ^Humili- 
 tatis" carved above its portal. The approach 
 to the second court is through a more striking 
 gateway, bearing on its front the word " Virtu- 
 tis" and on the other side "Jo Caius posuit 
 Sapienticc" — John Caius built this in honor of 
 Wisdom. The third gateway, leading to the 
 Schools and Senate House, is even more orna- 
 mented, and bears the inscription, "Honoris." 
 The plan of the founder was to inculcate the 
 lesson, that through humility and virtue, one 
 gains by wisdom, honor. There is in "Caius" 
 little to impress one other than this quaint le- 
 gend, cut in stone, and learned as we walk 
 through the successive courts ; and remembering 
 that from this foundation the world has gained 
 such men as William Harvey, discoverer of the 
 circulation of the blood, Sir Thomas Gresham, 
 founder of the Royal Exchange of London, 
 Bishop Jeremy Taylor, and the non-juring 
 
164 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 Bishop Jeremy Collier, and Lord Chancellor 
 Thurlow, we pass on to "Clare." Here, de- 
 lightfully situated on the western bank of the 
 Cam, with a single spacious court, and con- 
 nected by a picturesque bridge of three arches 
 with the "green fields beyond," reached through 
 a noble avenue of limes, is one of the two oldest 
 foundations in Cambridge. Here, too, Hugh 
 Latimer, Bishop and martyr, the saintly Nicho- 
 las Ferrar, the intellectual Cudworth, the elo- 
 quent Archbishop Tillotson, the pious Hervey, 
 author of the "Meditations," and the poet Gray 
 were scholars. 
 
 Turning from stately "Clare," we leave on 
 the left Trinity Hall, and pass the University 
 Library, the Senate House and the Schools, ere 
 we reach the King's Parade and approach the 
 magnificent Chapel of King's. We might have 
 lingered in the Library, — which contains nearly 
 a quarter of a million of printed books and MSS. 
 with rarities, such as etchings by Rembrant, 
 and the MS. prayers belonging to King Ed- 
 ward VI. ; imprints by Caxton, Faust, and 
 Jausen, and the celebrated Codex of the Gospels 
 and Acts in uncial letters on vellum, presented 
 by Theodore Beza in 15S1, which is one of the 
 most ancient manuscripts of the Gospels extant, 
 
Ca ?)z b ridge. 1 65 
 
 — but King's College Chapel was before us, the 
 
 chief object of attraction in Cambridge, and we 
 
 hurried on. Familiar in our student days with 
 
 tne Library building of "Harvard," the exterior 
 
 of wh'ch in outline and in some minor features, 
 
 was suggested, sed longo intervallo, by this 
 
 magnificent structure, we were soon within its 
 
 walls, impressed as we had rarely been before 
 
 with its massive splendor. Begun by the meek 
 
 and unfortunate Henry VI., it was nearly a cen- 
 
 turv in building, but the work of these many 
 
 years produced an edifice which must ever 
 
 rank among the finest in Christendom. 
 
 " Thej T dreamt not of a perishable home 
 Who thus could build.'' 
 
 The style is perpendicular, and in its very 
 sumptuousness of decoration, it shows the de- 
 cline of the true principles of pointed architec- 
 ture ; but in its magnitude, being three hundred 
 and sixteen feet in length, eighty- four feet in 
 breadth, and the height of the interior seventy- 
 eight feet, and of the corner turrets one hundred 
 and forty-seven feet ; in the glory of its match- 
 less glass, and in the perfection of its condition, 
 it must ever be regarded as one of the noblest 
 architectural works of mediaeval days. The 
 exterior is at once striking and grand ; but the 
 
166 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 interior is still more impressive. The "branch- 
 ing roof" of stone, is vaulted throughout with 
 exquisite fan-tracery, unbroken by a single col- 
 umn. There are the 
 
 " Storied windows richly dight, — 
 Casting a dim, religious light-" 
 
 One is struck by the "awful prospective," as 
 Wordsworth styles it in his sonnets "Inside 
 of King's College Chapel" : — 
 
 " Where light and shade repose, where music dwells. 
 Lingering — and wandering on as loth to die; 
 Like thoughts whose very sweetness yieldeth proof 
 That they were born for immortality. 
 
 The walls on the inside of the Ante-Chapel 
 are ornamented with carved stone-work, most 
 delicately executed. Crowned roses, portcull- 
 ises, and fleurs-de-lis, the armorial devices of 
 Henry VII., abound on every side. The choir 
 is separated from the Ante-Chapel by a carved 
 oaken screen, erected in 1534, when Anne 
 Boleyn was Queen. The ornamentation is that 
 of lovers' knots, while a panel on one side dis- 
 plavs the Boleyn arms impaled with those of the 
 King. The stalls are of comparatively inferior 
 workmanship and design. It is the stained 
 glass, "the storied windows richly dight" of 
 Milton's II Penseroso, which for brilliancy and 
 
Cainbridge. 167 
 
 purity of color, artistic design and execution, 
 completeness of arrangement and remarkable 
 preservation, makes this Chapel worthy of spe- 
 cial mention. Of the twenty-six immense win- 
 dows,, each nearly fifty feet in height, all but 
 one are filled with imagery, the upper portions 
 comprising subjects from the Old Testament, 
 and the lower from the New, giving type and 
 antitype. The richness and purity of the col- 
 oring, the grace and freedom of the drawing, 
 the artistic skill displayed in the grouping, and 
 the careful attention to the details of the scenes 
 represented, have rarely been exceeded. Both 
 the designs and workmanship are English, and 
 to London artizans inspired by the munificence 
 of Henry VII., these remarkable works of sa- 
 cred art are due. Walsingham, Secretary of 
 State to Queen Elizabeth, Bishop Pearson, the 
 author of the Exposition of the Creed, Edmund 
 Waller, the Poet of the Commonwealth. Robert 
 Walpole, the statesman, and Horace Walpole, 
 the man of letters, and the celebrated "Evan- 
 gelical" preacher, Charles Simeon, are among 
 the famous names on the books of King's. 
 
 Corpus Christi College is noticeable for its 
 modern buildings, and also for the manuscripts 
 in its library. Among these are the originals 
 
1 68 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 of the XXXIX Articles, and many most valua- 
 ble Reformation documents given by Matthew 
 Parker, the first Archbishop of Canterbury after 
 the yoke of Rome was thrown off. The Arch- 
 bishop and several of his successors in the See 
 of Canterbury, Lord Keeper Bacon, Kit Mar- 
 low and John Fletcher, the dramatists, Gough, 
 the celebrated archaeologist, and others no less 
 distinguished in Church and State and in letters, 
 are among the eminent men of Corpus Christi. 
 S. Catherine's, where Bradford, priest and 
 martyr, Lightfoot, the eminent Hebraist, and 
 Strype, the Ecclesiastical historian, were edu- 
 cated ; Queen's, where Erasmus, when at Cam- 
 bridge had his study at the top of the tower of 
 the court still called by his name ; the Pitt 
 Press, or University printing house ; Pembroke, 
 associated with the names of Ridley, Bishop and 
 martyr, John Rogers, priest and proto-martyr, 
 Edmund Spenser, the poet of the "Faery 
 Queen," Lancelot Andrews, the sainted Bishop 
 of Winchester, Richard Crashaw, the poet, 
 William Pitt, the statesman, and others ; and 
 "Peterhouse," the oldest collegiate foundation in 
 Cambridge, founded by Hugh de Balsham, 
 Bishop of Ely, in 12S4, bring us in succession to 
 the Fitzwilliam Museum, the last of the college 
 
Cambridge. 169 
 
 buildings in Trumpington street. Returning by 
 another way, we pass by Downing College, the 
 latest collegiate foundation, in the University, it 
 having been opened in 1821, and shortly reach 
 "Emmanuel" College, where we stopped to 
 feed the swans, as we had earlier petted the 
 spotted deer at Peterhouse. Christ's College 
 was next on our way, famous for the mulberry 
 tree planted in its garden by Milton when a stu- 
 dent here. The trunk is much decayed, but it 
 is carefully propped up and will doubtless live 
 for many a year. We plucked a leaf and gazed 
 awhile at this interesting relic ere we turned 
 away. "Sidney Sussex," where Oliver Crom- 
 well was a student, occupies the site of a Fran- 
 ciscan monastery. Jesus College, where Arch- 
 bishop Cranmer, Laurence Sterne, the author 
 of Tristam Shandy, and Samuel Taylor Cole- 
 ridge were scholars, was of especial interest to 
 us as the college of a dear friend in our own 
 land. It stands amidst gardens and green 
 fields, and of it King James I. remarked, "that 
 if he lived in the University, he would pray at 
 King's, eat at Trinity, and study and sleep at 
 Jesus." This college is the only instance of a 
 monastic establishment being transformed bod- 
 ily into a college. It was a Benedictine nun- 
 
170 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 nery, on the suppression of which the munifi- 
 cent Alcock, Bishop of Ely, converted it with 
 its buildings, revenues and lands into the pres- 
 ent noble foundation. The entrance gateway 
 at the end of the long walk, is a striking and 
 beautitul bit of brick and stone work, covered 
 with ivy and opening into the first court, which 
 with its green meadows in front and open sunny 
 aspect, wears a most attractive look. The sec- 
 ond court is entered through a beautiful though 
 unpretending portal, and is surrounded by a 
 venerable-looking cloister, occupying the site of 
 the nunnery cloisters. The third court is small 
 and of little account. The chapel is only second 
 to that of King's in its beauty. It was the old 
 church of S. Rhadegunde's, and has been res- 
 tored with every care to reproduce the style and 
 decorations of the early fabric. The carvings, 
 glass, metal-work, and all the fittings of this 
 sumptuous chapel are most creditable, as attest- 
 ing the proficiency of modern art in reproduc- 
 ing the examples and models of an earlier day. 
 An unique memorial of the original character 
 of the foundation is a stone in the south transept 
 bearing the inscription, MORIBUS ORNATA, 
 JACET HIC BONA BERTA ROSATA. 
 Crossing "Magdalene Bridge" and passing 
 
Cambridge. 171 
 
 the site of the "Castle," now destroyed, to 
 which Wordsworth in his "Excursion" refers, 
 we reach Magdalen College, which occupies the 
 site of a Benedictine priory, established about 
 1430. Magdalen is specially interesting as con- 
 taining the "Bibliotheca Pepysiana" and the 
 original diary of Pepys, comprised in six vol- 
 umes, closely written in short-hand, and con- 
 taining in upwards of three thousand pages a 
 daily record of every noteworthy public or pri- 
 vate transaction from 1659 to 1669. Here too 
 were most interesting collections of English and 
 Scottish ballads, dating back to the earliest pe- 
 riod, and other interesting literary treasures. 
 
 Such was our round of inspection, from hall 
 to hall till all the colleges had been visited. 
 The other notable sights of Cambridge were not 
 overlooked. The famous Church of the Holy 
 Sepulchre, which is in a fine state of preserva- 
 tion, is the oldest of the four round churches re- 
 maining in England. It was consecrated in the 
 year 1 101 and was doubtless built by some early 
 crusader as a votive offering for a safe return 
 from Holy Land. S. Giles is of even earlier 
 date, having been founded in 1092, the chancel 
 walls and arch being of that time. S. Peter's, 
 almost a ruin, is supposed to occupy the site of 
 12 
 
i"jz Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 a temple of Diana in the old Roman city of 
 Camboritum. The Falcon Inn is an ancient 
 mediaeval hostelry just out of "Petty Cury" 
 street. This is the oldest inn in Cambridge, 
 and still retains its quaint and picturesque open 
 gallery carried round the exterior of the second 
 story. Hobson's Conduit brings to mind the 
 famous carrier who has given a proverb to the 
 English language, "Hobson's choice, this or 
 none," by his strict requirement that his horses 
 should have regular use and rest, and who is the 
 subject of two epitaphs by no less a poet than 
 Milton. S. Michael's Church, founded in 1324, 
 is still one of the most seemly and creditable 
 places of worship in Cambridge. The Univer- 
 sity Church, S. Mary the Great, dates its foun- 
 dation back to 147S. S. Edward's was erected 
 about 1350. S. Benedict's has a tower of Saxon 
 architecture, one of the most perfect and inter- 
 esting examples remaining in England. S. Mary 
 the Less is a beautiful example of the decorated 
 style, consecrated in 1347. S. Botolph's is of 
 the late perpendicular architecture, and well re- 
 pays a cursory examination. 
 
 Among our pleasant memories of Cambridge, 
 is the recollection of a lunch at Canon Lightfoot's 
 rooms in the Master's Court of Trinity. Amidst 
 
Cam b ridge. 1 73 
 
 the noble collection of books gathered by this 
 unrivalled scholar we were most hospitably en- 
 tertained, while the "lunch," to which Bishop 
 and Mrs. Stevens, as well as our own party, 
 with some local notables, were invited, was one 
 of the most delightful repasts we have ever en- 
 joyed. Professor Lightfoot had been my next 
 neighbor at a noble feast at the Charterhouse 
 some weeks before, and earlier I had gone a 
 long way to hear him preach a masterly sermon 
 while in residence as Canon of S. Paul's, and it 
 was with great pleasure that we renewed our 
 acquaintance thus agreeably in his own rooms 
 and among the evidences of his learned labors. 
 From the midst of his great work at the Univer- 
 sity he has since been removed to fill the Bish- 
 opric of Durham, and as the "Prince Bishop" 
 of the North of England, we are confident that 
 he will still win the golden opinions which have 
 been his all through his remarkable career. 
 
 Regretfully declining numerous invitations to 
 other festivities and pleasures, we turned away 
 from Cambridge with feelings of love and inter- 
 est second only to those with which we must 
 ever regard its ancient rival, Oxford. 
 
XVI. 
 
 Kensington Palace and the Savoy. 
 
 IN his fascinating diary, that delightful Chris- 
 tian gentleman and Churchman, John Eve- 
 lyn, records under date of February 25, 1690-1, 
 these words : "I went to Kensington, which 
 King William had bought of Lord Nottingham, 
 and altered, but was yet a patched building ; 
 but with the gardens, however, it is a very neat 
 villa, having to it the park and a straight new 
 way through the park." It was at this 
 "patched building," though a "palace," that we 
 were left one bright Saturday afternoon after a 
 charming drive through the parks, and we 
 
Kensington Palace and the Savoy 175 
 
 failed not to remember, as we looked upon the 
 dingy brick quadrangles and the quaint and un- 
 palatial aspect of the structure, that Queen Vic- 
 toria was born beneath these gabled roofs and 
 here first learned that in her youth and inexpe- 
 rience she was the mistress of the noblest nation 
 of Europe. As we drove through the paved 
 courts to the apartments of our dear and hon- 
 ored friend, the Rev. Prebendary Bullock, the 
 Chaplain of the Palace, we were reminded of 
 an almost ludicrous mishap on occasion of an 
 earlier visit to Kensington, when by our driver's 
 blunder we were all but ushered into the draw- 
 ing-rooms of the Marquis of Lome and the 
 Princess Louise, in our effort to dine with the 
 worthy Prebend of S. Panl's. The greetings 
 over and our weariness relieved, we were shown 
 about the palace and its pleasant grounds by 
 our host, accompanied by his charming wife, 
 the daughter of Dean Alford of Canterbury, and 
 their children, our sweet little Margie and Edith, 
 whose interest in their latest novelty, the Bishop 
 of Haiti, gave way somewhat in behalf of an- 
 other Bishop from a more distant See. 
 
 One could hardly sleep in our pleasant apart- 
 ments, from the latticed windows of which the 
 inner court with its quaint gables and cloisters 
 
176 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 was visible, in view of the historic associations 
 clustering around this irregular pile. Sir Chris- 
 topher Wren at the bidding of the King had 
 added a story to the old home of the Earl of 
 Nottingham, and also built the south front, and 
 from this beginning, the adornment of the pal- 
 ace became an absorbing passion with the 
 phlegmatic William, occupying much of his 
 time when in England and not forgotten even 
 when in his continental home. Here Queen 
 Mary died, after a solemn Sacrament, the Arch- 
 bishops and Bishops who were in attendance 
 receiving the consecrated elements with her. 
 It was indeed as Bishop Burnet says: "God 
 knows a sorrowful company, for we were losing 
 her who was our chief hope and glory on earth." 
 Here King William died. Here " good Queen 
 Anne," as her end drew near, placed the Lord 
 Treasurer's wand in the hand of the Duke of 
 Shrewsbury, saying, "For God's sake, use it for 
 the good of my people," and after hours of anx- 
 iety, during which the succession in the House 
 of Hanover depended on a dying woman's re- 
 turn to consciousness, died and mace no sign. 
 Here George the II. died. Here Victoria, only 
 daughter of Edward, Duke of Kent, was born 
 and christened. Here the virgin Queen's first 
 
Kensington Palace and the Savoy. 177 
 
 council was held ; and here the Princess Louise, 
 Marchioness of Lome, and the Princess Mary, 
 younger daughter of the late Duke of Cam- 
 bridge, reside. 
 
 Wc were to preach in the plain, unpretend- 
 ing chapel of the palace, and in the royal pew 
 opposite the pulpit we saw the Princess Mary 
 of Teck, with her brother-in-law, the Grand 
 Duke of Mechlenburg, and his son, Prince 
 George of Brunswick, and their dear little "se- 
 rene highnesses," the children of the Princess 
 Mary. The interest felt in the presence of an 
 American prelate was evident. The little prin- 
 ces had for their Sunday instruction an account 
 of the American Church, and of the Diocese 
 of Iowa in particular, and after the service and 
 sermon, throughout which they with their eld- 
 ers were most interested and attentive, these 
 fair-haired, sweet-faced children waited on the 
 steps of the palace to pay their respects to the 
 preacher as he passed by to his apartments. 
 
 Well do we recall the pleasant hours spent at 
 "Old Kensington." The rooms where we were 
 so delightfully entertained were rich in treas- 
 ures. In the coscy library, where our host, — 
 whose loving labors for the Church of God ex- 
 tended all over the world through the venerable 
 
17S Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in 
 Foreign Parts, of which he was the chief ex- 
 ecutive officer. — sought in his moments of free- 
 dom from official care to find occupation in exe- 
 getical work, there was gathered a theological 
 collection of great rarity. Many of Dean Al- 
 ford's books were there, and a unique collection 
 of the Dean's water-color sketches made during 
 his vacation rambles at the English lakes, in the 
 Highland, on the lovely Riviera, and in North- 
 ern Italy. Here too, around Prebendary Bul- 
 lock's hospitable table, gathered Church nota- 
 bles from various parts of the world, making us 
 familiar with men and scenes quite unknown 
 before. And here amidst the varied attractions 
 of the place and its occupants we enjoyed every 
 moment, save when we thought that we noticed 
 the failing strength and increasing languor of 
 our beloved host, who, weary and worn with 
 the work of the Church of God, has since our 
 return laid down his pen and closed his com- 
 ments on the word of God he loved so well, and 
 has "fallen asleep." Old Kensington will be 
 ever dear to us, not so much from its historic 
 memories and the interest clustering around its 
 royal occupants, but because we here last saw 
 this honored servant of God who is now at rest 
 in Paradise ! 
 
Kensington Palace and the Savoy. 179 
 
 Turning aside from the noise and bustle of 
 the Strand, one of London's most, crowded 
 thoroughfares, one is surprised and impressed to 
 find the quiet of a country churchyard, where 
 the crumbling memorials of the dead are min- 
 gled with the greensward and shaded by lilacs 
 and plane trees. The eye rests lovingly on this 
 sunny spot, with its open view of the river and 
 the Thames Embankment, and the grey pinna- 
 cles of the Abbey, and the long reach of the 
 Houses of Parliament melting in the distance in 
 the haze of a London sky. Under the shadow 
 ot the venerable church which stands embow- 
 ered amidst the trees, and where the headstones 
 of the departed crowd this little bit of turf in the 
 heart of busy London, once stood the Savoy 
 Palace. Built by Peter, brother of Archbishop 
 Boniface, and uncle of Eleanor of Provence, the 
 wife of Henry III., it became, after the battle 
 of Poitiers in 1356, the residence of the captive 
 King of France. To this prison-home King 
 John voluntarily returned in consequence of his 
 inability to fulfil the conditions of his release ;. 
 and here the royal prisoner died on the 9th of 
 April, 1364. It was here that Chaucer married 
 Phiiippa de Ruet, a lady of the household of 
 Blanche, Duchess of Lancaster, and sister of 
 
I So Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 Catherine Swyneford, the second wife of John 
 of Gaunt. While the Savoy was still the Lon- 
 don house of the Duke of Lancaster, it was pil- 
 laged and burnt by the rebels under Wat Tyler, 
 in consequence of the protection afforded by the 
 Duke to the followers of Wickliffe. After its 
 destine ion the Savoy was rebuilt by Henry VII. 
 as a hospital, dedicated to S.John the Baptist. 
 This charity was finally suppressed in the reign 
 of Elizabeth. After the Restoration, the Savoy 
 Conference was held here for the revision of the 
 Book of Common Prayer. Twelve Bishops 
 met an equal number of leading Nonconformist 
 divines, of whom the celebrated Richard Baxter 
 was one. The remains of the palace have all 
 disappeared, but it was in the church where we 
 preached this lovely summer Sunday afternoon 
 that the Liturgy restored by Queen Elizabeth 
 on her accession to the throne was first read in 
 the vernacular language. The style of architec- 
 ture of the Savoy Chapel is perpendicular. It 
 has a low bell-tower and a richly colored roof. 
 As a royal Chapel, it has been twice restored 
 through the charity of the Queen. Within its 
 walls may be seen the brass of Gavin Douglas, 
 Bishop of Dunkeld, who is represented in Scott's 
 Marmion as celebrating the marriage of De 
 Wilton and the Lady Clare : 
 
Kensington Palace and the Savoy. 181 
 
 A bishop at the altar stood, 
 A noble lord of Douglas blood, 
 With mitre sheen and rocquet white, 
 Yet show'd his meek and thoughtful eye 
 But little thought of prelacy; 
 More pleased that, in a barbarous age, 
 He gave rude Scotland Virgil's page, 
 Than that beneath his rule he held 
 The bishopric of fair Dunkeld. 
 
 Another versifier, George Wither, the poet of 
 the Commonwealth, lies here without a monu- 
 ment. 
 
 In this quiet nook there was a brilliant con- 
 gregation for the special Sunday Sermon which 
 the Vicar had announced. The service was 
 choral, the choir boys wearing purple cassocks 
 under their cottas, and a silver cross. The sing- 
 ing" was delightful, and it was an occasion of no 
 little interest to preach the everlasting Gospel 
 on a spot so crowded with historic memories. 
 The service over and the sermon done, we drove 
 back to Old Kensington, and on the morrow 
 took up afresh our pilgrimage. 
 
XVII 
 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 TO one who enters within the massive portals 
 of Westminster Abbey for the first time, the 
 impression of its grandeur and beauty cannot be 
 other than profound. The transition from the 
 outer world, bright with the glare of noon-tide, 
 noisy with the ceaseless hum of traffic, or the 
 tread of passers-by, to the solemnity and glory 
 within, strikes the stranger with awe, and con- 
 strains even the most unimpressible visitor to 
 pace with bated breath and hushed and faltering 
 step these consecrated aisles where rest succes- 
 sive generations of the mighty dead. Here, in 
 this shrine of Edward the Confessor, the last of 
 
Westminster Abbey. 183 
 
 the Saxon Kings, there have gathered about 
 his sacred ashes for eight hundred years the 
 sepulchres of kings and king-like men. Here, 
 standing before the high Altar and on the Con- 
 fessor's grave, on that wild, wintry Christmas- 
 day, A. D. 1066, William of Normandy, the 
 founder of a new line of monarchs, surrounded 
 by the vanquished Saxons and the victorious 
 Normans, received the crown he had won, and 
 in all succeeding years it is on this sacred spot, 
 and amidst these solemn aisles, that the sover- 
 eigns who succeed to William's place and to 
 more than the Conqueror's domain have had the 
 same investiture. Here, since the days o! Edward 
 L, in an oaken chair with the "stone of Scone" 
 emb:dded in its seat, the sovereigns of England 
 for more than five hundred years have sat at 
 coronation, resting during their investiture with 
 regal dignity on the stone traditionally known 
 as Jacob's Pillar, u a link which unites the 
 Throne of England to the traditions of Tara 
 and Iona," if not with the plains of Holy Land 
 and the patriarch of old. Within these sacred 
 walls have gathered the men of many genera- 
 tions since those early days when the impatient 
 feet of mailed assassins followed the hapless fu- 
 gitives of noble or royal birth even into the re- 
 
184 Some Sum?ner Days Abroad. 
 
 cesses of the Sanctuary ; till now, when all the 
 world in pilgrim guise comes to this House of 
 God to admire its venerable beauty, to mingle 
 in its stately services and each to seek beneath 
 this lofty roof and amidst these crowding recol- 
 lections of the past, "echoes of some memory, 
 dear to himself alone." More than a millennium 
 of momentous history meets us at this shrine ; 
 and in these sepulchres lie the great and good 
 of England's past for twelve hundred years. 
 Here legends mingle with chronicles ; and the 
 story of the ancient Church of Sebert, King of 
 the East Saxons, built on the Isle of Thorns, 
 the Abbey's present site, and consecrated by no 
 other hands than those of the Chief of the Apos- 
 tles ; and the marvel of the revelation to the 
 Confessor of the Child, "pure and bright like a 
 spirit," seen in the sacramental elements by the 
 King, as well as by Leofric, Earl of Coventry, 
 who, with the famed Godiva, his wife, was 
 present at the consecration of the Host ; and the 
 miracle of the cripple's restoration when borne 
 by the kindly king "obedient to the heavenly 
 vision," on his shoulders to the foot of the high 
 altar, make this hallowed spot a meeting-ground 
 of fact and fable, and invest the annals of the 
 Confessor's shrine with a wierd interest and a 
 
Westminster Abbey. 185 
 
 lasting charm. There are remains still stand- 
 ing of the Confessor's work which replaced the 
 humbler Church of Sebert built four hundred 
 years before, and one can see stores laid over 
 eight centuries ago in order where they shall 
 continue undisplaced till time shall be no more. 
 Two centuries after Edward's death, Henry III. 
 became the second founder of the "Collegiate 
 Church of S. Peter" at Westminster. Edward 
 I. continued the work, and in 1502 Henry VII. 
 pulled down the Lady Chapel and erected in its 
 place the exquisite perpendicular chapel which 
 bears his name. It is the richly-decorated butt- 
 resses of this portion of the Abbey that strike 
 the eye of the observer who approaches from 
 Parliament street, while from the square bear- 
 ing the name of the Broad Sanctuary, one sees 
 the varied outline of the whole structure, broken 
 only by S. Margaret Church and disfigured 
 solely by "Wren's poor towers." We paced 
 again and again the marble pavement of this 
 "antique pile," viewing now its marvellous ar- 
 chitectural beauty, the springing arches resting 
 their bases on clustered columns of massive size 
 as they bear aloft the " arch'd and ponderous 
 roof" ; noticing the wonderful tracery cut in the 
 imperishable stone above 5 around, beside us ; 
 
1 86 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 and now admiring the coloring which deepens 
 the shadows amidst the quiet chapels and along 
 the fretted aisles, and floods the tombs of Kings 
 and warriors, priests and poets, courtiers and 
 commoners, with rainbow hues. 
 
 It was not till we were somewhat wonted to 
 the spot, aid aisles and cloisters, cenotaphs and 
 effigies, had become in a measure familiar to 
 our eyes, that we could shake oft' the overpow- 
 ering sense of grandeur and awe, and address 
 ourselves to the task of a closer inspection. It 
 was then that we began to realize the presence 
 of the mighty dead. Fourteen monarch s of Eng- 
 land lie here amidst their nobles and warriors. 
 Fourteen queens are here entombed, with numer- 
 ous princes and princesses of royal blood. It is 
 Macaulay who reminds us that this is " the great 
 temple ol silence and reconciliation, where the 
 enmities of twenty generations lie buried ;" and 
 so, as we pass "through rows of warriors and 
 through walks of kings," we are confronted by 
 the memorials of rival dynasties and contending 
 parties. Almost side by side rise the stately 
 monuments of Mary, Queen of Scots, and her 
 rival and murderess, Queen Elizabeth. Here, 
 too, rests " Bloody" Mary, and the boy King, 
 Edward VI., whom Hooker says, that "though 
 
Westminster Abbey. 187 
 
 he died young, he lived long, for life is in ac- 
 tion." Near by, the remains of Cromwell were 
 laid among those of the Kings, into whose place 
 he had thrust himself, and hence they were 
 taken at the Restoration, to be dragged to 
 Tyburn, hanged, decapitated, and buried under 
 the gallows. Archbishop Ussher, the pride of 
 scholars and the glory of Ireland's Church ; the 
 Earl of Clarendon, the incorruptible statesman 
 and the historian of the Great Rebellion ; the 
 Duke of Marlborough, England's most success- 
 ful commander ; Lord Howe, the captor of 
 Ticonderoga, and the friend of the American 
 colonies ; Wolfe, the conqueror of Quebec ; 
 Burgoyne, whose surrender cost England the 
 loss of the thirteen colonies ; the unfortunate 
 Andre, whose fate two hostile nations mourned ; 
 Lord Chatham, Wm. Pitt, Fox, Grattan, Can- 
 ning, Peel, Palmerston, Warren Hastings, Wil- 
 liam Wilberforce — these are among the namesof 
 the great and good the eye of the pilgrim notes 
 as he wanders through aisles and cloisters, chap- 
 els and choir. But it is in the Southern Tran- 
 sept, known for years as the " Poets' Corner," 
 that one's interest culminates. Here rests Geof- 
 frey Chaucer, "well of English undefiled," who 
 died in the precincts and was buried in the 
 
 J 3 
 
1 88 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 Abbey, October, 1400. Here Edmund Spen- 
 cer, who also died near by, in King Street, 
 Westminster, was buried. The poets of his 
 day followed the bier, and elegies and poems 
 with the pens that wrote them, were thrown 
 into the open grave. Think for a moment ot 
 the scene at the obsequies of the author of the 
 Faerie Queene, at which Francis Beaumont, 
 John Fletchef, Ben Jonson, and we can hardly 
 doubt, Shakespeare himself, were present. 
 Think of the " grave in which the pen ot 
 Shakespeare may be mouldering away !" The 
 famous inscription cut in the blueish marble, 
 " Rare Ben Jonson," is the simple memorial 
 of Shakespeare's friend, whose remains are 
 buried standing upright, awaiting the Resurrec- 
 tion. Davenant, whose name tradition links with 
 Shakespeare's, and facts, with Milton's career, 
 lies in the grave into which that gossiping 
 chronicler, Pepys, looked, with curious eyes. 
 Here rests Cowley, some of whose lines the 
 world will never suffer to be forgotten, at whose 
 burial, John Evelyn tells us, nobles, bishops, 
 clergy, and all " the wits of the town," were 
 present. John Dryden, educated at Westmin- 
 ster school, where his name is still to be seen 
 carved on a school bench, is buried at Chaucer's 
 
Westmi?ister Abbey. 189 
 
 feet, so close that the father of modern English 
 poety was almost laid in the grave of the father 
 of ancient English poetry. Monuments of Mil- 
 ton, Butler, Shakespeare, Goldsmith, Thomp- 
 son, Gay and Watts," have here their places. 
 Steele and Addison, Richard Congreve, Mat- 
 thew Prior, John Gay, Dr. Johnson, Richard 
 Brinsley Sheridan, Thomas Campbell, and Lord 
 Macaulay, have each a monument here. It was 
 with no little emotion, that, as we were looking 
 at the " storied urns and animated busts " around 
 us, we suddenly chanced to note at our feet, the 
 freshly cut letters, " Charles Dickens." Memo- 
 rials of Southey, Wordsworth and Thackeray, 
 are near at hand. David Garrick is here com- 
 memorated by a monument, with all the emblems 
 of the tragic muse, which provoked the criticism 
 of the gentle " Elia." Statues of Mrs. Siddons 
 and John Philip Kemble, the one by Chantly 
 and the other by Flaxman, add their proof that 
 from this mausoleum of England's noble dead, 
 actors are not shut out. Purcell, whose exqui- 
 sive chants and anthems are still sung in 
 churches and cathedrals all over the world, has 
 a memorial here, and so has Handel, who 
 breathed his last, as he had devoutly wished to 
 do, "on Good Friday, in hopes, he said, of 
 
190 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 meeting his good God, his sweet Lord and 
 Saviour, on the day of his resurrection." And so 
 we might go on to speak of Newton's splendid 
 monument, at the base of which we sat one 
 Summer Sunday evening, listening to the elab- 
 orated periods and graceful elocution of the cel- 
 ebrated Dean Stanley ; and the memorials of 
 the learned Barrow, the inimitable South, and 
 that prince of pedagogues, Dr. Busby ; of Gran- 
 ville Sharp, scholar and philanthropist ; of Watt 
 and Stephenson, the great engineers ; of Thomas 
 Parr, who lived through the ten reigns from 
 Edward IV. to Charles I., and died at the age of 
 152. A scratched monogram of his well-known 
 name on Isaac Casaubon's memorial tablet, with 
 the date 1658, is the work of that genial church- 
 man and fisherman, Izaak Walton, to whose 
 grave in a distant cathedral, we had earlier 
 made our loving pilgrimage. 
 
 Passing from these memorials of the dead 
 who live in song and story, to our own recol- 
 lections, there are two reminiscences which we 
 cannot fail to record. The burial of a bishop 
 who had been one of the most noted scholars of 
 his day, was one of these notworthy events of 
 our visit, and a sermon in the Abbey by an 
 American clergyman is even yet of so rare 
 
Westminster Abbey. 191 
 
 occurrence as to make its mention pardonable in 
 a recital of personal experiences. Joining the 
 crowd filling the nave, transepts and choir, of 
 this glorious temple, one beautiful summer day, 
 we waited the coming of the procession which 
 was to bear the Bishop of St. David's, the 
 scholarly Thirlwall, to his honored grave.* The 
 sunlight with myriad hues filled the interior and 
 made everything bright and glorious. Solemn 
 music from the grand organ at length announced 
 the entrance of the funeral train. Preceded by 
 the venerable Verger, bearing his ponderous sil- 
 ver mace, the surpliced choir, the Dean, wear- 
 ing the Collar of the Garter, and Canons, and 
 clergy, with scholars and friends, moved in sol- 
 emn state, bearing the coffin of polished oak, 
 with a full length Latin cross of brass, resting 
 upon its top. The pall was borne by six pre- 
 lates, the Archbishop of Canterbury, whose 
 train was supported by a chorister boy, and the 
 Bishops of London, Winchester, Ely, St. David's 
 and Melbourne. As the cortege moved through 
 the narrow space railed oft' from the crowd of 
 interested spectators, the sombre aisles and 
 arches re-echoed the solemn melody of Croft's 
 burial anthem, " I am the Resurrection and the 
 Life, saith the Lord," "I know that my Re- 
 
192 Seme Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 deemer Liyeth," " We brought notlrng into 
 this World and it is certain we can carry noth- 
 ing away." Entering the gates of the choir 
 the Bishops passed to their places on either side 
 of the magnificent altar, the Archbishop taking 
 his position at the north side, and the Bishop of 
 London at the Epistle side, while the other Pre- 
 lates were grouped around. The Dean and 
 clergy occupied their accustomed stalls, and as 
 the body rested upon the altar rail, the choir 
 sang the coth Psalm, the second of the two set 
 forth in the English office, which have been 
 somewhat abbreviated and united in a single 
 anthem in our own. Grating strangely on the 
 strains of the Dojtzine refugium , were the incon- 
 gruous sounds of the workmen, who were with 
 pick and bar, enlarging somewhat the dimen- 
 sions of the grave, but as the minor notes of the 
 chant modulated into the melody of the Gloria 
 Patri, the work was done, and nothing marred 
 the effect of the funeral lesson, read solemn'y 
 and distinctly by the venerable Archdeacon Jen- 
 nings, from his stall. At the close of the lesson. 
 the Dean and Precentor passed through the west 
 door of the choir to the south Transept, where 
 the grave awaited its tenant, while the funeral 
 procession left by the gate nearest to the altar 
 
Westminster Abbey. 193 
 
 rails. Here the choristers resumed the service 
 as musically arranged by Croft, "Man that is born 
 of a woman hath but a short time to live and 
 is full of misery," changing to PurcelFs exqui- 
 site anthem " I Heard a Voice from Heaven," 
 following the committal, which was read by the 
 Dean in his sonorous voice, the sound of the 
 "earth to earth" upon the metal cross of the 
 coffin-lid, giving forceful emphasis to his words. 
 The sentences and prayers were read by the 
 Dean with great pathos, while the musical 
 "Amens" rang through the Abbey their melo- 
 dious refrain. Before the closing benediction, 
 Handel's funeral anthem, with the appropriate 
 words, " His body is buried in peace, but His 
 Name liveth forever," was admirably rendered 
 by the choir, ending in an outburst of triumphant 
 song. The open grave was filled with wreaths 
 and chaplets of all the bright hues of midsum- 
 mer, and, after this mark of affection and re: ard, 
 the funeral train retired, the organ pealing forth 
 the strains of the magnificent "Dead March in 
 Saul." Slowly the crowd of spectators left the 
 church. They had given most reverent attention 
 from first to last, though to many the eye could 
 not see, and the ear but imperfectly hear, what 
 was being done within the Choir and Transept, 
 
194 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 but the impressions of tie place and ^cene were 
 evidently profound, and even on emerging into 
 the noon day glare and bustle without, one and 
 all went silently away, leaving behind the mor- 
 tal remains of a great and gifted Bishop of the 
 Church of God, in his last resting place, till the 
 day of doom. 
 
 The Dean over whose household there had 
 been thrown a lasting gloom by the recent de- 
 mise of his wife, the beloved Lady Augusta 
 Stanley, who was the friend of royalty and of 
 the poor as well, had kindly sent us an invita- 
 tion to his historic home, and the visit was one 
 to be remembered, bringing out, as our conver- 
 sation did, the Dean's wonderful acquaintance 
 with the history, not only of the Church of 
 England, but of our own less widely-known 
 communion. It was in pleasant rt cognition of 
 kindred tastes, and doubtless intended as a 
 graceful act of intercommunion, that on our 
 return from the continent we were invited to 
 preach in the Abbey one Sunday afternoon in 
 October, 1875, and the theme suggested to us 
 was that of "Anglo-American Sympathy 
 with Continental Reform," *involvip£ the re- 
 
 * The sermon was published in London immediately after its 
 delivery and placed on the list of the Anglo-Continental Society, 
 whose cause it most heartily advocated. 
 
Westminster Abbey. 195 
 
 cital of personal impressions and experiences 
 at the then recent Conference of the Old 
 Catrnlics at Bonn. Two other priests of the 
 American Church had earlier occupied the 
 Abbey pulpit ; our old instructor and rector, Dr. 
 Alexander H. Vinton, and a fellow student at 
 "Harvard," who had become the most distin- 
 guished of the preachers of the American Church, 
 Dr. Phillips Brooks. It was with no little anx- 
 iety and apprehension that the invitation to stand 
 in such a place and preach to such an audience 
 as gathered to these special services, was ac- 
 cepted, but, reassured by Dean Stanley's kind- 
 ly welcome, as we presented ourselves at the 
 Abbey in " surplice, stole and hood," and with 
 Oxford cap, agreeably to the instructions we had 
 received, we were shortly on our way, preceded 
 by the Verger and followed by the Dean, to- 
 gether with choristers and canons, to the choir, 
 which was filled, together with the Transepts, 
 and out into the nave. The service was choral 
 and so sweetly sung as to calm one's agitation 
 and fit the mind for the full enjoyment of the 
 Church's praise and prayer. After the third Col- 
 lect, a Verger escorted me from my seat within 
 the Altar rail, to the pulpit, and catching the 
 note of the Abbey as I prefaced my sermon with 
 
196 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 the Collect and Lord's Prayer, I was soon in the 
 midst of my discourse, happily conscious that 
 my words were heard. Soon the Ascription 
 announced that the duty had been discharged, 
 and, after the prayers which followed the ser- 
 mon, the procession formed for the return to the 
 Deanery. A few kindly words from the Dean 
 prefaced his thoughtful proffer of being my 
 guide to some portions of this historic pile, not 
 generally accessible. 
 
 It was indeed a privilege to visit with the 
 historian and custodian of the Abbey, the famed 
 Jerusalem Chamber, where King Henry IV. died 
 on the 20th day of March, 1413, agreeably to 
 an old prophesy to which Shakespeare alludes, 
 
 "Bear me to that Chamber; there I'll lie — 
 In that Jerusalem shall Harry die." 
 
 It was in this historic room that the strange 
 conversion of Prince Henry, from the disso- 
 luteness of youth to the soberness and devotion 
 which marked his after life, occurred, which 
 Monstrelet chronicles and Shakespeare has im- 
 mortalized. Here, too, during the great rebel- 
 lion, the Westminster Assembly of Divines met 
 day after day, while preparing the Directory, 
 the Longer and Shorter Catechism, and the 
 Confession of Faith, which are still the symbol- 
 
Westminster Abbey. 197 
 
 ical books of Presbyterianism. In the spacious 
 library, filled with valuable books and pictures 
 of noted Deans, there has been found within the 
 last few years an opening into a secret cham- 
 ber, which w..s doubtless the scene of the con- 
 spiracy of the AbLot William, of Colchester, to 
 which Shakespeare makes mention in the last 
 part of Richard IJ. Here, doubtless, the 
 Jacobite Atterbury plotted the restoration of 
 the House of Stuart, and the proclamation of 
 James III., at Charing Cross. In this house, 
 Elizabeth Woodville, Queen of Edward IV., 
 took refuge twice, and here Edward V. was born 
 and baptized, while the Queen mother was in 
 " Sanctuary," and here she parted forever with 
 her sons. Full of most suggestive memories 
 was every step we took, and every spot we 
 looked upon. It was late ere I bade my kind 
 guide a grateful farewell and returned to our 
 London home in Euston Square. 
 
XVIII. 
 
 London Streets and London Sights. 
 
 WE are treading, as we wend our way through 
 the myriad streets and among the more 
 than myriad sights of the world's metropolis, 
 amid the scenes of the lives and labors of suc- 
 cessive generations for more than two millen- 
 niums. Geoffrey of Monmouth, an old British 
 chronicler, gossips of the foundation of this city 
 by the Tiojan Brute, after the likeness of great 
 Troy, before that built by Rcmulus and Remus, 
 a thousand years before the coming of Christ, 
 but without resoit to legend there is no doubt 
 but that the " Londinium," spoken of as " illus- 
 trious," by Tacitus, was built on the site of a 
 
London Streets and London Sights. 199 
 
 British city whose origin and annals are lost in 
 the twilight of history. Fragments of the old 
 Roman walls built in the fourth century still 
 exist, laid stone upon stone, as these old master- 
 builders placed them ; and one passes through 
 thorou^hfaies to-day which bear the names of 
 Aldgate, Bishopsgate, Cripplegate, Aldersgate, 
 and Ludgate, and mark the approaches to the 
 " city " as they did in the age of Constantine. 
 The debris of centuries has raised the modern 
 city much above the level of the London of the 
 Romans, but the remains of tessellated pave- 
 ments, cinerary urns, lachrymatories, and the red 
 Samian ware, attest the extent and opulence of 
 the " Colony." Here thousands of Romans and 
 their allies fell before the cruel vengeance of the 
 outraged Boadicea. Ashes of wood and molten 
 glass and blackened pottery, found in our own 
 days, a score of feet and more below the surface, 
 tell of the consuming fire with which the in- 
 censed Queen sought to burn out all traces of 
 foreign rule and occupancy. For more than 
 two centuries the silence of desolation and ruin 
 brooded over the spot, and there is no mention 
 of London in history. In Saxon days, Ethel- 
 bert founded S. Paul's in the year 610. The 
 Danes made the city a stronghold and the traces 
 
200 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 of their presence and power are yet found in 
 the names of localities and churches still retained 
 after the vicissitudes of twelve hundred years. 
 Driven out by Alfred the Great it was not for 
 years and only after varying fortunes of war that 
 Edmund Ironside was the first monarch to be 
 crowned in this, the foremost city of the land. 
 Edward, the Confessor, built the Abbey and 
 Palace of Westminster, and the grateful Lon- 
 doners resisted for a time with success the en- 
 trance of the Conqueror, though at length he se- 
 cured the submission ot the people and received 
 the keys of the city and the crown of England 
 at the Confessor's tomb. The charter granted 
 by King William is still preserved at Guildhall, 
 and under this simple document, the Norman 
 Mayor taking the place of the Saxon Portreeve 
 as a designation of the highest civic dignitary, 
 the city has grown with successive centuries to 
 be the world's mart of trade, arid the leading 
 centre of its population. The chapters in this 
 city's annals, the story of its development 
 through the successive centuries, its very broils 
 and tumults, its religious and political martyr- 
 doms, its connection with various or contending 
 dynasties, its commercial importance and the 
 control it has exercised over public opinion and 
 
London Streets and London Sights. 201 
 
 modern thought, all form a part of the history 
 of our race. 
 
 The very names of London streets and sites 
 teach us lessons in history, as we, in the lan- 
 guage of Shakespeare, 
 
 " Satisfy our eyes 
 
 With the memorials and things of fame, 
 That do renown this city. 
 
 From many examples we select a few. It is 
 Dr. Johnson who says, "I think the full tide of 
 existence is at Charing Cross." Modern re- 
 search refuses to find the derivation of the name 
 of this interesting part of London in the title of 
 Queen Eleanor, the beloved wife of Edward L, 
 "La Chere Reinc" that u pious, modest, gentle 
 woman, a lover of the English," whose memo- 
 rial adorns this busiest spot of all the world. 
 The fact, however, remains, that the bereaved 
 King here erected the last and most magnificent 
 of the nine crosses which marked the resting 
 places of the good Queen's body on its way, from 
 Lincoln where she died, to Westminster, where 
 her hallowed ashes lie. Few others than this 
 loving and loved woman have had their memo- 
 rial newly raised and their virtues freshly and 
 deeply cut in the enduring stone a thousand 
 years after their life had passed away ! At 
 
202 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 Charing Cross we are on the Strand along which 
 the ceaseless surging tide of life and labor ever 
 ebbs and flows. Its name reminds us that once 
 it followed the strand ox shore of the Thames, 
 though now quite out of sight of the mighty 
 stream. Near by is Covent Garden, the con- 
 vent garden of Westminster, and now the fruit 
 and flower mart of London, keeping thus its 
 old name as well as its earlier associations, 
 and being, as Thackeray describes it, a " com- 
 mon centre into which Nature showers her 
 choicest gifts, and where the kindly fruits of the 
 earth often nearly choke the narrow thorough- 
 fares." 
 
 Following the Strand we notice the church 
 of S.Clement Danes, the name of which has for 
 over a thousand years borne witness of these 
 turbulent invaders of England and the clemency 
 of Alfred the Great, as well, who, in banishing 
 the aliens whom he had conquered, suffered 
 those who had married English wives to remain 
 behind. Temple Bar has passed away, but its 
 associations with literatnre and politics will ever 
 cling to its site, while the Temple Church and 
 the Inns of Court carry the visitor back in mind 
 to the days of that famed order of religious 
 knights, who, in their efforts for the recovery of 
 
London Streets and London Sights. 203 
 
 the Holy Sepulchre, have leftbeh'nd them even 
 in the midst of busy London, abundant traces 
 of their pride and power. Smithfield will ever 
 bring to recollection its old time Tournaments, 
 described on Froissart's glowing page ; the tur- 
 bulent scene when the "poor commons" lost 
 their rebel leader, Wat Tyler, by the trenchant 
 dagger of the Lord Mayor Walworth ; its wagers 
 of battle in which the right did not always over- 
 come opposing might ; its solemn martrydoms 
 where the souls of reformers went home to God 
 " in chariots and flames of fire ;" its Bartholo- 
 mew's fair ; and its modern cattle market. Who 
 will fail to connect Christ's Hospital, well styled 
 by Bishop Middleton, " the noblest institution in 
 the world," not only with the noted " Blue Coat 
 Boys," who have risen to note in after years, but 
 with good " Master Ridley," Bishop of London, 
 who suggested the foundation of this famous 
 school, and the boy King, Edward VI., who 
 carried out the Bishop's plan. Nor may we 
 forget the former occupants of this spot, the 
 Grey Friars, who had for three hundred years 
 held this site and made their religious house 
 famous throughout the land. S. John's Gate, 
 which Dr. Johnson, as Boswell tells us, " be- 
 held with reverence," has not only its modern 
 
204 Soine Su?nmcr Days Abroad. 
 
 and yohnsonian connection with the " Gen- 
 tleman's Magazine," but is well worthy of 
 reverent memory as the last relic of the noble 
 priory of the Knights of S. John of Jerusalem. 
 It is in " Clerkenwell," suggestive of the clerks, 
 or clergy, well of curative power as mediaeval 
 legends tell, that this old-time relic stands, and 
 we visited it in company with our dear friend 
 and host, the Master of the Charterhouse, with 
 much of the same spirit in whieh the ponderous 
 lexicographer sought the spot. What is the 
 Tower but an epitome of English history rub- 
 ricated in blood, blistered with the tears of mor- 
 tal anguish? We walk these London streets and 
 we turn aside to see these historic sights with 
 the flood tide of recollection bringing back to 
 mind the men and scenes of all past time. 
 
 One cannot go amiss in London. Are you 
 sauntering through Fleet street, named from that 
 polluted stream, now happily concealed from 
 view, 
 
 "Than whom no sluice of mud 
 With deeper sable blots the silver flood?" 
 
 It was here that the "Devil Tavern" stood till 
 a century since, where the Apollo Club had its 
 meetings under the rhymed rules Benjonson 
 wrote and where Swift and Addison and Dr. 
 
London Streets and London Sights. 205 
 
 Johnson dined from time to time. Here is the 
 " Cock " unchanged within from the style and 
 days of James I., where Pepys came when he 
 would be " mighty merry," and where Tennyson 
 was wont to resort, and the "plump head wait- 
 er," of which he apostrophises in " Will Water- 
 proof s Lyrical Monologue." Here, too, the 
 genial angler, Izaak Walton, lived at the cor- 
 ner of Chancery Lane, and just beyond the poet 
 Drayton had his home, in a bow-windowed house 
 still contrasting its old-time architecture with 
 the tasteless erections of our modern days. 
 Close at hand Cowley was born, and in the 
 happy days of boyhood gave his hours to the 
 study of a folio copy of the Faerie Queene, which 
 had its place on his mother's window-sill, till he 
 became " irrecoverably a poet." In Aldersgate 
 street, Milton had his " pretty garden-house." 
 In Jewin street, near by, he married for the 
 third time. He died in Bunhill Fields, and his 
 grave is still to be seen in S.Giles', Cripplegate. 
 In Bishopsgate street is Crosby Hall, now an 
 eating-house, but one of the finest examples of 
 the domestic architecture of the fifteenth century 
 to be found in England. Shakespeare refers 
 again and again to Crosby Hall, and in this 
 palace home Richard III., when Duke of Glou- 
 
206 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 cester lived, while planning his nephew's re- 
 moval from the throne. Here Sir Thomas 
 More lived and wrote the life of the usurping 
 King Richard. Here the first Earl of North- 
 amption wooed and won, by a lover's strategem, 
 the lovely Elizabeth Spencer, the greatest heir- 
 ess in England. Here the Countess of Pembroke 
 lived, " Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother," 
 whose epitaph, by Ben Jonson, is so widely 
 known and admired. Amidst these and other 
 crowding associations with the history and liter- 
 ature of the past, we lunched right royally, 
 conning our guide-books between the courses 
 and quite admiring the thrift which thus pro- 
 vides for the outer and inner man. Who can 
 rightly tell the impressions made upon the 
 stranger as he passes from room to room, by 
 gate after gate, out upon the bloody " green " of 
 the Tower? A volume would not contain the 
 annals of the palace of Westminster and old S. 
 Stephen's Hall. Who can fail to make the pil- 
 grimage to Whitehall, where the a royal mar- 
 tyr " laid his head upon the block to die by the 
 executioner's blow ; or, if in another vein, pass 
 lovingly the South Sea House, where the gentle 
 Elia had his desk and duty through his years of 
 patient toil ; or, at the " nooning" seek, it may 
 
London Streets and London Sights. 207 
 
 be, the noted " Dolly's Chop House," under the 
 shadow of S. Paul's ; or, visit the cool and spa- 
 cious "Rainbow," where Dickens was wont to 
 resort, or lunch at the dingy " Cheshire Cheese," 
 where the wits of the day are apt to congregate ; 
 or at the '-Mitre," where Johnson was a fre- 
 quent visitor. Thus are the shops, the streets, 
 the inns, the very pavements, peopled with the 
 men of letters and history, whose lives seem to 
 confront us as we walk abroad, while their 
 memorials guard their ashes in the cloisters of 
 England's mausoleum of her mighty dead at 
 Westminster. Day after day we paced the 
 countless highways and byways of this mighty 
 city, seeking, as pilgrims, the homes and sep- 
 ulchres of the dead. They lived again in our 
 mind and memory as our feet trod the holy 
 ground they trod, and our eyes looked out upon 
 the sights and scenes they saw. Thus, though 
 a man die, he shall live again and forever, even 
 in the places which shall know his bodily pres- 
 erce no more, if he has lived wisely and well — 
 not for himself but for others. 
 
XIX. 
 
 THE CLOSING DAYS. 
 
 BEFORE leaving for the continent we were to 
 preach at S. Paul's. An earlier invitation 
 extended by the Dean and Chapter we had been 
 forced to decline, in consequence of other en- 
 gagements, but on the first Sunday in August 
 we officiated in that stately Cathedral, which is 
 the centre of so many and such potent Church 
 activities. It was one of Canon Liddon's Sun- 
 days in residence, and not at the least of one's 
 unwillingness to speak in such a place and to 
 such a auditory as gathers there thrice every 
 Lord's day, was the presence of confessedly 
 
The Closing Days. 209 
 
 the greatest orator of the Church of England. 
 But Canon Liddon was an old friend with 
 whom we had spent several days on the conti- 
 nent in that charming University town on the 
 Rhine, Bonn, where the Old Catholic Conference 
 of i875 was held, and his kindness soon put the 
 preacher at ease. The service was as usual. 
 The noble choir rendered the "Evensong" with 
 their accustomed sweetness and power. That 
 grand old organ gave forth its noblest strains 
 under the touch of the celebrated Dr. Stainer, 
 and escorted by the Vergers and accompanied 
 by Canon Liddon, we took our place in the long 
 procession of choristers and clergy, and, after 
 one of Sterndale Bennett's anthems, preached to 
 the thousands filling the space under the dome 
 and far out into the transepts and nave. The 
 sea of heads before one was of itself exh iterating. 
 The kindly hint of the Canon, to address one's 
 self to a prominent statue of Sir Joshua Rey- 
 nolds, on the opposite side of the nave, to avoid 
 awakening the echoes from above, was not lost, 
 and it was a satisfaction, after the ordeal was 
 passed, to learn that the sermon was audible to 
 the crowd of auditors, some of whom, oddly 
 enough, chanced to be from far-away Iowa. 
 One of the u Hymns Ancient and Modern," was 
 
210 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 sung and the service closed, the congiegation 
 standing as the procession of choristers and 
 clergy passed to the apse. Ere the pulpit was 
 fairly left an officious reporter clamoured in 
 vain for the manuscript of the sermon for publi- 
 cation, and, as afterwards appeared, had his 
 revenge for the refusal in issuing a most inaccu- 
 rate report. The Canon kindly gave his thanks 
 with his parting salutations, and one of the long- 
 to-be-remembered events of one's life was over. 
 Briefly must we allude to the Sheffield 
 Church Congress, where we were most hospita- 
 bly entertained at the beautiful mansion of Mr. 
 Alderman Moore, of Ashdell Grove. Oar host 
 was one of the leading men of Sheffield, and he 
 and his son, the Rev. H. H. Moore, M. A., 
 Vicar of Darvven, were untiring in their efforts 
 to render our visit to Sheffield and its surround- 
 ings most pleasant. The meetings of the Con- 
 gress were interesting and instructive. Crowds 
 attende each discussion, and the utmost capac- 
 ities of the two largest halls in the town were 
 insufficient to accommodate all who sought to 
 attend the debates and addresses. Our own part 
 was to give an account of the Cathedral of the 
 Diocese of Iowa, and the simplicity of its organ- 
 ization, the economy of its management, and the 
 
The Closing Days, 21 1 
 
 efficiency with which the results sought were 
 attained, elicited great praise at the time, and 
 later, secured a gratifyingpublic recognition from 
 the English Church press. The most interesting 
 meeting in connection with the Congress was the 
 gathering of thousands of Sheffield workingmen, 
 who listened with an enthusiasm we have rarely 
 seen excelled, to the addresses of the Archbishop 
 or York, the Bishops of Carlisle and Manchester, 
 who spoke with directness and earnestness, as 
 well as simple, unaffected eloquenee, moving all 
 hearts. A day on the moors, where we were 
 taken by our kind hosts, to the Alderman's 
 " shooting-box:," and the pleasant hours at the 
 home circle, are not to be forgotten among our 
 many cherished memories of English hospitality. 
 It was here that we learned to know and love 
 the wife of our host and the mother of our dear 
 friend, the Vicar of Darwen, who, in her gentle, 
 winsome womanliness, won our hearts, and is 
 remembered by us raoit lovingly, now that she 
 has ' w fallen asleep." Alas ! that so many whom 
 we met and found so dear to us during these 
 happy summer days abroad, have passed from 
 earth. We shall see them no more till we meet 
 them in the home above ! 
 
 The end draws near. We had met the Arch- 
 
212 Some Summer Days Abroad. 
 
 bishop of Canterbury, with his family, at our 
 hotel, the Beau Rivage, in Geneva, Switzerland, 
 and Mrs. Tait had arranged for a visit at Ad- 
 dington Park, one of his Grace's summer resi- 
 dences, just before we sailed. We could only 
 give a couple of days to this visit, but our wel- 
 come was so hearty, and the pains taken for our 
 pleasure so unceasing, that the remembrance of 
 each moment is still a source of delight. The 
 inner life of the Primate of AH England is as 
 simple and saintly as that-of the most ascetic of 
 his predecessors in the seat of S. Austin. The 
 day of work begins and ends with the Church's 
 prayers, and the intervening hours are spent by 
 each and all the household alike in the dis- 
 charge of deeds of mercy and benevolence, or 
 else in words of kindliness and love. We were 
 at Addington Park, as we had been again and 
 again at Lambeth Palace, while the shadow of a 
 great, and so far as earth is concerned, a hope- 
 less sorrow brooded over the bereaved house- 
 hold. But they sorrowed not as tho>e without 
 hope, for the pure and winning life which had 
 been so suddenly and mysteriously ended. And 
 now, as we review the walks and drives, the 
 conversations and the marked attentions which 
 were ours at this brief visit, and remember that 
 
The Closing Days. 213 
 
 the beloved wife, the devoted mother, sleeps in 
 Jesus, reunited in the Paradise of God with the 
 only son and the earlier lost to earth, we rev- 
 erently thank God for the good example, the 
 pure conversation, and the sweet and saintly life 
 of Catherine Tait. Little thought we, as with 
 tearful eyes and yet with the full consolation of 
 a high and holy hope, she pointed out to us the 
 new-turfed resting-place of her son, whom we 
 had met on our own shores, that in a few weeks 
 she would be lying beside him in the dust of 
 the earth, awaiting a joyful resurrection. It was 
 a privilege to have seen and known this lovely 
 woman, and to have had a glimpse of the home 
 life which was so soon to be disturbed. Thanks 
 be to Him Who breathed benedictions on those 
 who mourn, that He, the gracious Saviour, has 
 whispered peace to the beloved husband and 
 the orphaned daughters of this stricken family ! 
 A few days at Oxford, with kind Mrs. Combe 
 and our dear friends, Prof, and Mrs. Montagu 
 Burrows, a hurried visit at the hospitable Dean- 
 ery at Chester, which we had left for the steamer 
 once before, and we were again on the Atlantic, 
 favored with pleasant gales, wafting us home- 
 ward to our work. 
 
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