THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. THREE YEARS THE PACIFIC; INCLUDING NOTICES OF BRAZIL, CHILE, BOLIVIA, AND PERU. BY AN OFFICER OF THE UNITED STATES NAVY. [^ l,(AJ/'^ "Comme a mes chers amis je vous veux tout conter." — Corneille. — — — < - '■'■■ '"% N(F?r i^ iB ^ PHILADELPHIA":* CAREY, LEA & BLANCHARD. 1834. Entered, according to the Act of Congress ^ in the year 1834, BY CAREY, LEA & BLANCHARD, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States in and for the Eastern District of Pennsylvania. b'^l PRINTED BT ZTSIA R> BAII.ET, NO. 26 NOBTH 7IFTH STBEET. ^93 o /> TO FRANCIS H. GREGORY, ESQ., COMMANDER IN THE UNITED STATES NAVY ; AS A SLIGHT TRIBUTE V TO HIS TALENTS AS AN OFFICER, AND HIS VIRTUES AS A MAN, THIS WORK IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BY HIS FRIEND, THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Introductory — Getting under way — Getting to Sea, - . - - 9 NOTICES OF BRAZIL. CHAPTER I. Entrance to Rio de Janeiro-^The Sugar Loaf — Glance round the harbor — The Corcovado — G16ria Church — The City — Praya Grande, - 17' CHAPTER II. Walk in the streets of Rio — Imperial Chapels — ^Rua Direita — Slaves — Rua d'Ouvidor — Marimba — Abdication of Dom Pedro — Regency of Pedro II., - - - 23 CHAPTER III. Museum — Aqueduct — ^Banana tree — Farinha — ^Policemen — Slave of a na- turalist — Casa da Agua, - -^- - - - - - 36 CHAPTER IV. The Opera — The Currency, 42 CHAPTER V. The Botanic Garden — A Peep at Court, --.-.. 45 CHAPTER VI. A walk — A ride — A dinner party, 52 CHAPTER VII. Architecture — Cries — Market — Churches — Cemetery of San Francisco de Paula — Funerals — Climate — Prison — Slave market — Library — News- pap ers, .. .._ 60 CHAPTER VIII. Geography of Brazil — Products — Diamond Mines, - - - - 65 CHAPTER IX. Departure — ^Voyage round Cape Horn—Cape Pigeons, - - - 72 ym CONTENTS. NOTICES OF CHILE. CHAPTER I. Arrival at Valparaiso — Bay — Appearance of the place — Landing — Town — Market — Scenes in the street — Costume — Oracidn — Plaza — Cries — Beggars, -- 8t CHAPTER n. Society — Introduction to a Family — Costume — Furniture — Mate — Sing- ing — Cigars — Presenting of Flowers — Leave-taking — Traits of Charac- ter — A day visit — Anecdote — Tertulia on a Sunday evening — Dancing — «« El cuindo"—" La Perdi'z"— Foreign Society, ... 92 CHAPTER HL Ride to Santiago — Mode of Travelling — Peonada — The honey palm — Car- retas — Mode of descending hills — Penuelas — Throwing the lazo — A bivouac — Casablanca — Posada — Mode of making butter — Bread — Cu- esta de Zapata — Bustamente — Breakfast — Cuesta del Prado — A view — Entrance to Santiago — Custom house officers — Table of Barometric observations, .-.- 107 CHAPTER IV. Fonda Ingldsa and inmates — ^Fonda del Comercio and Fonda de la Nacion — Site of Santiago — Description of the city — Its founding — Plaza — Shops — Book stores — Dead bodies exposed before the prison early in the morning — Siesta — Shopping at night — Ladies — Costume, - 125 CHAPTER V. Tajamar — Military Academy — Militia System — San Liines — Alameda — An evening visit — Card playing — National Institute — Schools — Socie- dad Filarm6nica — Otavario — Procession — Praying for rain— State of medicine and pharmacy, .- 133 CHAPTER VI. Visit CoHna — Law of primogeniture — A senator — A family dinner — Face of the country — Ploughing — Sowing — Baths — Friar of San Felipe — Don Jose — Return to Valparaiso — Storm on the road, - . . 143 CHAPTER Vn. Goquimbo bay — La Serena — Salute — Balsas — The Port — Commerce — Condors— The City — Distress by drought — Society — Trade, - 152 CONTENTS. M NOTICES OF BOLIVIA. CHAPTER I. Bay of Mexillones — Cobija — Soil — Landing- — Balsa — Town — Old trees — Scarcity of water — Commerce — Visit to Uie copper mines — Catica, 163 CHAPTER II. Historical sketch of Bolivia — Its productions — Coca, ... 174 NOTICES OF PERU, CHAPTER L Callao Bay — Island of San Lorenzo — Entering Callao — Castles— Ancient defence of Callao — Town of Callao — Market — Water — The Mole — Re- mains of " Old Callao," - 181 CHAPTER n. Ride to Lima — The Road — Monument — Bellavista — Treasure — Church of Palms — Market women — Tambo de la Legua — Church — Negroes dancing — Mules and asses — Alameda de la Portada — Meet a pleasure party — Lima gate — ^^Entrance to the city — Animas — First'view of "the street of Callao," 190 CHAPTER in. History of the founding of Lima, - 200 CHAPTER IV. Topography and climate of Lima — Plan and divisions of the city — ^Walls — Distribution of property — Population— Religious communities, 203 CHAPTER V. Plaza — Portales — Palace — Cathedral — Archbishop's palace — Fountains — The Plaza by day, and by night — Segarr^ros — Pic4ntes — Barquillos —Ice, 212 CHAPTER VL Saya y Manto — Scenes in the street — Police — Market — Cherimoya — Pal- ta— Granadilla— Caf^s, 220 CHAPTER \Il. Convent of St. Augustin — Monastery of La Incarnacion — Convent of San- to Domingo — Negros Bozales — Convent of San Francisco — Our Lady of Mercies — San Pedro — Library — Churches — Bells — Inquisition — Mu- seum — ^University of St. Mark — Hall of Deputies — Charities — Hospitals, 229 1* r CONTENTS. CHAPTER VUI. The Cathedral — The Sagrario — Oracion — The B6veda — Death of Pizarro — His interment, 247 CHAPTER IX. Morning visits — A family — Conversation — Difficult for foreigners to enter - society — Female education — Ignorance of Geography — Provincialisms — A tertiilia — Monte al dao — Use of Tobacco — Morale of Lima society — Habits of the ladies — A good trait in the Lima character— Gambling, 262 CHAPTER X. Sunday in Lima — Books — Mach^ro — Misturas — Puchero deplores — Street of peril — Scene on the Alameda — Cock-pit — Theatre, ... 275 CHAPTER XL Bull-bait— Plaza del Acho, 283 CHAPTER XH. Nacimi^ntos — Christmas Eve — Christmas — Ride to Chorillos— Salteadores — Bathing — Harbor of Chorillos — Callao — La Presidenta — Carnival — Miraflores — Magdalena, ........ 293 CHAPTER Xm. St. John's day — Amancaes, ..--.--- 300 CHAPTER XIV. Dia de Santa Rosa — Birth-day customs — Life of Santa Rosa, - - 305 CHAPTER XV. Day of All Saints — Pantheon — Responses — Mode of burial — Obsequies — Collecting alms for masses — Day after All Saints — Funeral expenses— A patriotic curate — Rapacity of curates — Cofradia or burying company — Marriage ceremony — Marriage fees — Difficult for foreigners to marry in Peru — Clandestine marriage, --..--- 312 CHAPTER XVL Influence of priests over society — Perpetual light — Priests rule familieg— Confession — Penances — Money paid for expiation of sin — Nov^nas — Superstition — Preaching — Bulas de Cruzada — Character of the clergy — Notions about religious toleration — Supremacy of the Pope — " Car- tas Peruanas," 321 CHAPTER XVn. Arica — Appearance from the Anchorage — Mole — Advertisements — Streets — School — Water and provisions — Ancient Cemetery — Found- ing of Arica — Population — Products — Commerce — Guano, - - 338 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER XVin. Islay — Landing place — Town — Arequipanian ladies — Post-office regula- tion — ^Notions of the captain of the port about politics, - - 345 CHAPTER XIX. Pisco, from the anchorage — Landing — Ancient Pisco — Town — A ride — Salinas — Commerce — Captain of the Port, - . . . . 353 CHAPTER XX. Guarraey — ^Ferrol — Samanco — ^Nepena, 358 CHAPTER XXI. Santa^ — Bathing — A prison scene — An execution, .... 369 CHAPTER XXn. Huanchaco — Balsas — Landing — Port — Road to Trusillo — The Grand Chi- mu, and his war with the Incas — City of Truxillo — "El Quipos del Chimu" — A nunnery and a nun — ^Pacasmayo — Spinning — Ride to San Pedro — A Governor — A Colonel — Hospitable reception, - - 379 CHAPTER XXIII. Lambayeque Roads — Derivation of the name of the Pacific — Landing — San Jos^ — Balsa — Ride to Lambayeque — Plaza — The Capiis, a dress worn previous to the Conquest — A curious currency — The Church — A morning visit — Chicharias — Huacas— Chicha — Gourds — Indians- Town — Products — Visit Chlclayo — Factoria de Tobacos — Soap making — Tanning — Palm Sunday — Return to Lambayeque — Passion week — Scenes at the Chichan'a and Billiard room — Mode of embarking, 388 CHAPTER XXIV. Paita— Bay — Town — Piura— Whalers — A fish story, - - - 414 CHAPTER XXV. Geography of Peru — Repartimientos — Mita System — General La Mar — General Gamarra, - 417 CHAPTER XXVL Valedictory to the south-west coast of America, and return home, - 435 ADVERTISEMENT. The following pages are the result of observations made during two cruises in the Pacific Ocean, one of more than three years, on board of the U. S. S. Brandywine, from August 1826, to October 1S29, and the last on board of the U. S. S. Falmouth, from June 1831, to February 1834, and recorded with a hope of making my countrymen better acquainted with some of the peculiarities of their southern neighbors. As far as the nature of the work would permit, the author has avoided obtruding himself upon the attention of the reader, and has indulged in but few reflections ; being content to pre- sent naked facts, and allow each one to dress them for himself, and draw his own conclusions. The merits of the perform- ance, with its many imperfections, remain to be decided by the public, from whom is claimed all the indulgence usually accord- ed to novices in undertakings of the kind. 0^ The word " huaca," which occurs several times in the "Notices of Pe- ru," is pronounced as if it were written waca. The words in Spanish, which begin with hua and Jua, are pronounced as if written with W ; thus, Huanchaco is pronounced Wanchaco; Juanita, Wanita, &c. THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. INTRODUCTION. Introductory — Getting under way — Getting to Sea. Sea-gqing people, and particularly sailoi*s, for there is a distinction to be made between them, derive a pleasure from looking at a vessel, which landsmen cannot comprehend. Next to woman, nothing can fix the admiring gaze of a thorough bred seaman, so soon as a ship. When he views her from the shore, sitting buoyantly on the water, his eye roves quickly over her side from stem to stern, and carefully notes her pro- portions, her paint, the line of her ports and guns, with bright tompions reflecting the sun*s rays, her shear, and model gene- rally. The next look is aloft. There he scans the nice propor- tion and symmetry of her spars ; if the examination be satisfac- tory, he pronounces her "a splendid model — clean run and neat aloft,'' mentally deciding that she sits on the water like a duck, and must be a good sea-boat. If he is to become an in- mate on board, from that moment he feels a growing affection for hei*, and will not hear her faults mentioned without attempt- ing a defence. He speaks her praises with delight, and takes as much pleasure in her decoration, as a city belle possibly can in that of her own person ; — his ship occupies a place in his mind, only second to that of his wife or sweetheart. Without possessing the discriminating eye of a tar, I enjoy, in a high degree, the sight of a fine ship at her moorings, and when I first looked upon the F , I felt a "yearning to- 2 10 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. wards" her. Yet this is not that warm, adoring sort of love, inspired by woman, but rather such attachment as we feel for a favorite dog or horse. Though the F be not a perfect specimen of naval architecture, she is looked on favorably by those, ''trained to command and range the various sail," and her accommodations, both for officers and men, will bear com- parison with those of any sloop-of-war in the service. Having prepared every thing for my voyage, in June, 1831, I found myself on board, waiting only for a favorable wind. I had parted from my friends. Recollection is still fresh with the conflict between the anticipation of new scenes and the regret of separation, the resolution to part without a sigh, the benedictions of parting friends, the gazing after one, the ma- ternal blessing and last advice, breathed in tones of affection. The words of a mother at such a time are like a warning voice from Heaven, and like that voice, too frequently disregarded ; — one's feelings almost bubble up at the thought, in spite of all that philosophy may teach ! " It is a bitter trial to forsake, E'en for a season, in this changeful world. The things we cherish !" One morning, while looking over the beautiful bay, and gazing on the fair city of New York, that seemed to rise out of the bosom of the waters, the boatswain shouted, in the deep, gruff tone, peculiar to those of his office, " all hands, up an- chor ahoy !" The first lieutenant, the moving spring of the active and ready crew, stood upon the poop, trumpet in hand. The offi- cers were called to their respective stations ; the capstan bars placed and manned ; the messenger passed. Silence reigned " fore and aft." The '' first" applied the trumpet to his mouth, and in an under tone, gave the order, ''heave round." The "lads" stepped away to the music of the merry fife, and with light hearts, timed " Off she goes" till the anchor was apeak. " High enough," cried the second lieutenant, who was sta- tioned on the forecastle. INTRODUCTION. 11 *' Pall the capstan — unship the bars — lay aloft top-men — lower-yard-men in the rigging," were the successive orders, and at once, the masts appeared like living pyramids of nimbly moving seamen. " Aloft lower-yard-men," and they followed to their stations. "Close in, you Sirs, close in." The men were now seen in the tops, under them, and near the yards, ready to spring for- ward at the next word, which they seemed eager to anticipate, for it was necessary to repeat the admonition, "to keep close in," to prevent them from immediately gaining the ends of the various yards. The orders were now given in the full tone of command. " Trice up — lay out — loose away." In a second, the stud- ding sail booms rose ; the sail-loosers were hanging over the yards, untying the cords v^ich secured the sails in their posi- tions, and the next moment all was still — not a finger moved. *' Stand by- — are you ready there fore and aft ?" " All ready, Sir," replied a midshipman from each of the tops. " Let fall — sheet home and hoist away the topsails — cheerly with the main, cheerly." At the word, all the canvass, which heretofore had been concealed by being neatly folded on the yards, fell at the same instant into beautiful festoons, and the men briskly descended to the deck. The next moment the topsails were hoisting, and the fifes playing " The girls we left behind us," as the crew marched along the deck with the haulyards, keeping time to the music. "Tramp the deck boys, tramp the deck," cried the second lieutenant in an encouraging tone, and the time was marked louder than ever. "High enough with the mizen — belay the mizen topsail haulyards," cried the fifth lieutenant. "Belay the mizen top- sail haulyards," echoed a midshipman in a youthful key, and the boatswain's mate piped, belay ! "Belay the fore-topsail haulyards — high enough with the main — belay the main topsail haulyards," succeeded pretty rapidly, attended by the same echoing and piping as before. Again the capstan bars were placed, or rather "shipped," 12 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. and the order given to " heave round." The next moment, the *' second" cried, "high enough." " Pall the capstan — unship the bars — forward to the ^ cat' — move, lads, move — " replied the '^ first" in the full tone of a manly voice, unaided by his trumpet. A few seconds only passed, and the anchor rested on the bows. "Man the jib haulyards." *' All manned. Sir," replied the "second.'^ "Haul taught — hoist away the jib — starboard your helm, quarter-master — jump to the braces — starboard fore braces — larboard main braces — starboard cro' jack braces, haul in — ." The execution of these orders, almost as fast as given, brought the fore-topsail aback against the mast, while the " after" yards were full ; and aided by the jib, her head "paid round," and looked down the stream. Now, ftie yards were trimmed to the wind, and the ship moved gently on her way. The wind drew kindly aft. Sail after sail was spread, and studding-sails were set, "low and aloft ;" thus, under a cloud of canvass, and with a fine breeze, the ship swept away with the ease and grace of a sea bird. Silence took place of the bustle consequent upon getting under way. The sea-officers still remained at their stations, while the idlers* were on the poop, admiring the scenes we were passing on either hand, or conversing with those few friends, who, determined to see the last of us, accompanied us down to return in the pilot boat. It is soothing, in after years, to call to mind those who thus speed us with still another look — another grasp ; — to what hopes, and fears, and regrets, does the word farewell give rise ! The men were standing about the decks, ready to seize a rope when ordered. The pilot stood upon a gun, attentive to the song of the leadsman in the chains, as he cried, "by the deep nine," and narrowly watching the progress of the ship. His words were few, and directed to the quarter master at the * Idler is the epithet applied to all officers on board of a man-of-war, who do not keep a regular watch ; such are the surgeon, purser, sailing master, &c. INTHODTJCTION. 13 wheel, who answered his orders with precision. "Port," said the pilot. "Port, Sir," — replied the quarter master. ^' Steady," said the pilot. " Steady, Sir," repeated the quarter master. When we arrived at the Narrows, our prospects of getting to sea that day were blasted ; the wind suddenly changed, and we were obliged to bring the ship to anchor. After spending several days at Staten Island, the wind blew fair. Soon the anchor arose from its bed ; the sails were again spread, and swelled into beautiful curves, that harmonized with the straight lines of our spars and rigging ; we moved over the placid surface of the bay — the leadsman's song ceased — our bows nodded recognition to the crested wave of the ocean — the pilot boarded his little vessel, bearing our last farewell, and we stood on our course tbwards where the waters and skies seemed to meet. The day was in its splendor, but lighted no- thing to us save the expanse of the sea. Night came, and the moon looked over the mighty scene, and her light danced over the waves. The stars shone brightly and calmly ; the breeze blew mildly. Thus, day succeeds day, and the sameness of ship's duty is only relieved by occasionally meeting a sail as lonely as ourselves. There are times, however, when the dark clouds hang upon the horizon — the waters darken, and heaving themselves sul- lenly, often to a fearful height, burst into foam — the scud flies over the heavens — ^^lightning flashes — thunder rolls, and the storm howls furiously across the waste ! The ship, then strip- ped of her canvass, rises and plunges to the impulse of the waves, and the wind moans sadly through the shrouds. Then does man, indeed, in his majesty of mind, appear warring with the elements, and bidding defiance to their force. The noble bark seems to spurn the angry buffetings of the deep, and glides triumphantly over the heaving billows. Well tempered enthu- siasm swells the bosom of the skilful director of this wonderful machine. He scans the heavens and the wild waste ; his voice rises above the tempest, and his orders are executed, by those whom he guides, as fearlessly as they are given. Then follow, the abatement of the winds, the smoothing of 14 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. the sea, the clearing of the sky, and the reappearance of the sun. Next comes the calm, with its never failing attendant, ennui ; the ship rolls over a still restless sea, the sails flap against the mast, every place en board is uncomfortable, and every place cheerless — at length, p. gentle breeze, first seen at a distance, comes skipping and kissing along the surface, throw- ing it into fields of ripple. The sails feel its influence, and again we move on our course, with spirits as buoyant as our *^sea-girt" home ! NOTICES OF BRAZIL. NOTICES OF BRAZIL. CHAPTER I. Entrance to Rio de Janeiro — The Sugar Loaf— Glance round the harbor — The Corcovado — Gloria Church — The City — Praya Grande. On the last Sunday in August 1831, we descried through a hazy atmosphere, the <' Cabo do Frio," while yet thirty miles off. Five years before 1 beheld this lump of Brazilian earth with as much interest as if it were a mass of topaz or diamonds ; then, every moment seemed an hour, and every spot that pre- sented itself as we drew near, became of importance. Even the sand beach, sweeping towards the capital of this empire, fancy assured me, led to something, but that something was indefinite, and is so still. The same feeling seemed to pervade all those, who looked now on a strange shore, for the first time ; — every countenance beamed with joy, and all were plea- surably excited. Cape Frio, a high, wild, barren insular promontory, stands at the extremity of Maranbaya beach, sixty-eight miles to the eastward of Rio de Janeiro, having a passage for coasting ves- sels between it and the main. The land may be seen from a great distance in clear weather, rising high behind the beach, which sweeps with a gentle curve to the entrance of the har- bor. We were favored with a fresh sea breeze. Keeping in sight of the beach, we could see distinctly, before the day closed^ 18 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. the Church of Our Lady of Nazareth, built on the shore thirty miles from the Cape ; also, " Cabo Negro," and the Maris Isl- ands, which are said to be fourteen miles from the "Pao-de- Agucar,'' or Sugar Loaf, so called from its form, standing on the west side of the harbor. The wind died away as the sun set, and we were obliged to wait for the morning under easy sail. The morning was cloudy and foggy, and we were unable to get into port that day. To- wards evening we saw the islands again, and after night fall, the light on " Ilha Raza" or Flat Island, or, according to the easy translation of sailors. Razor Island. The sun set in a heavy bank of clouds, shooting his rays high, and gilding the skies in beautifully varied tints, and lighting up our hopes for the morrow ; the night, like the preceding, was spent under easy sail. About eleven o'clock on Tuesday morning the sea-breeze set in, much to our relief, for we were weary with "hope de- layed." As we drew near, the several small islands, sprinkled near the mouth of the harbor, came into sight one after the other, as the fog lifted slowly before the gentle breeze. Pre- sently we saw the "Pao-de-A^ucar," rising nearly thirteen hundred feet* into the air on the left of the harbor's mouth, and on the right, the battlements of Santa Cruz, standing at the foot of a high mountain. When still nearer, we perceived the Brazilian flag of yellow and green ; the holy cross, emble- matic of the religion of the country ; the telegraph and watch towers, then the masts of the shipping in the harbor. When * Captain Beechey, R. N. measured it, both in 1825 and 1828. The first ob- servation made its summit to be 1286, and the last, 1299 feet above the level of the sea. — Beechey' s Voyage. To the westward of the Sugar Loaf, the land is very remarkable ; when ap- proaching the harbor on a clear day, it presents the appearance of a huge figure of a man lying on his back. The profile of the face presents an immense nose and chin, while the " Pao-de-Agucar" represents the toes of this great man. Some exaggerating and waggish fancy has given to the whole the fami- liar appellation of Lord Hood's nose ; whether that feature of his Lordship me- rited the comparison, is not a matter of history ; — though Captain Basil Hall states that, "the characteristic prominence of the Hood nose" has been well known in the navy "for a glorious half century." NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 19 passing close under the guns of the fortress, we were hailed in a slow, stentorian tone, that seemed to issue from the rocks, for no human being was in sight ; allowing an interval between each word, the voice cried, "what — ship — is — that? — Where — do — you — come — from? — How — many — days — out? These questions being answered, it wished us a pleasant passage to the city, whose spires and fanes were already in view. We continued our course, passed a small fort situated near the en- trance of BoTAFOGo, the fort of Villegagnon, point Gl&ria, and soon reached our anchorage, in one of the most beautiful and picturesque bays in the world. We *' came to" about a mile from the city, with our bows to the southward and consequently looking out of the harbor. Rat Island and " Ilha das Cobras," lay between us and the shore. The former is notable, because navigators, on arriving here, resort to it for the purpose of testing the correctness of their nautical instruments. It is a small, low rock, and not far from the latter, which divides the outer from the inner har- bor ; the men-of-war lie in the one, and merchantmen occupy the other. From the Sugar Loaf, which is a conspicuous point, we will glance round this beautiful marine basin, and endeavor to con- vey some idea of its form. The " Pao-de-Agucar" is more than twelve hundred feet high, as mentioned above, and bears a striking resemblance to a loaf of sugar, inclining a little to one side. Its surface is nearly smooth, of a dark, sombre color, and sprinkled here and there with little tufts of stunted bushes. It stands on the west side of the harbor, and at the entrance of the almost circular bay of Botafogo, which sweeps round towards the city as far as San Berndrdo point. Notwithstanding the steepness of its sides, (that towards the sea being perpendicular, or perhaps overlooking the water for ten or fifteen feet above the surface,) it has been twice ascended, and both times from the most inaccessible point. Many years ago an Austrian mid- shipman, in that reckless spirit of enterprise which is a boon given to all sailors by father Neptune, when they wed the sea, offered to wager with his messmates that he would ascend the Sugar Loaf from the sea side, and display a flag on its sum- 20 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. mit. The offer was accepted, and the young son of the Ocean, properly equipped, started on his expedition. At the base of the rock, the water rises and falls alternately three or four feet as the waves roll past into the harbor, so that several attempts were made, before he succeeded in landing. He then toiled up the embrowned side of the rock, hoisting himself by a bush or by some inequality of the surface, till he reached the top, where he displayed his banner, and to the terror of the inhabitants of Rio, lighted a fire; for every one who was not aware of the enterprise, thought that the Pao-de-Agucar had suddenly be- come a volcano. After remaining all night under the dreadful apprehension, as he said, of being eaten by venomous serpents that hissed round the fire, or of rolling down the shot tower like mountain into the sea, if he should be overcome by sleep, he safely descended, and obtained the wager. In spite of its difficulties, the same feat was afterwards achieved by an Ame- rican midshipman, who left "the stripes and stars" waving over the land while the bunting endured, for no Brazilian would venture to haul it down. The repetition of the enter- prise is now forbidden by an imperial decree. Close in the rear, the mountains are broken by deep ravines and splintered into peaks, one of which, called the Corcovado, out tops and overhangs the rest. Upon its very summit, like an eyry perched among the clouds, is an observatory and a watch tower which may be seen at a great distance, when not hidden in the vapors that frequently shroud it.* Between San Bernardo and G16ria points extends a long beach, which, from having been the resort, in times past, of the gorgeously plumed flamingo, is now called " Praya do Fla- mingo." On G16ria point is placed, very conspicuously, a small white church, dedicated to the invocation of "Nossa Senhora de Gl&ria." The edifice is octahedral, and has a tall slender spire at one side. The hill on which it stands is one of the most picturesque spots about Rio. The terrace surrounding the church, which is about one hundred feet above the level of • According to the measurement of Captain Beechey, R. N. made after the formula of Mr. Daniel, the base of the flag staff is by one observation 2308 feet, and by a second 2306 feet above the level of the sea. NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 21 the sea, forms a delightful promenade in " twilight gray," well suited for the dhioument of love. In the hall or entrance of the building are hung many mementos of the miracles wrought by our Lady of G-lory, who, it would appear, was an adept in the healing art. Casts in wax, many of them obscene in their configuration, from that of the simplest wound to the most loathsome ulcer, are collected here as testimonials of relief af- forded at her hands and through her invocation, to the afflicted of both sexes. From this point sweeps a small cove, lined by a neat row of white one story buildings that look out upon the bay, to point St. lago, upon which stands a fortress of the same name. The next cove is short, and terminates at "Cobras." Here the city is seen over a forest of the masts of small craft, reposing under the shelter of the mountains. The " Praga de San Jos^' the Palace, and the imperial Chapels are conspicuous. The whiteness of the buildings brings the whole, like a picture, in strong relief against the dark mountain sides in the back ground. Bells are ringing different peals at the same time, guns are firing, and at almost every hour of every day, hundreds of rockets are sent whizzing through the air in honor of some saintly festival. ' From the anchorage, the city appears to be a cleanly one, but " 'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view ;" for, " whoso entereth in this town, That, sheening far, celestial seems to be, Disconsolate will wander up and down, 'Mid many things unsightly to strange ee ; For hut and palace show like filthily : The dingy denizens are reared in dirt ; Ne personage of high or mean degree Doth care for cleanness of surtout or shirt. Though shent with Egypt's plague, unkempt, unwash'd, unhurt !" To the northward, the mountains rise high in slender, splin- tered peaks, which, from a fancied resemblance to the tubes of an organ, are called the Organ Mountains. In the same direc- tion are seen white chSteaus perched on the hills and rocks, so high as to be sometimes robed in clouds. The city itself is 22 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. overlooked by two or three convents, as solemn in their appear- ance as the monks of their cloisters. On the eastern side, and nearly opposite to Rio, is a neat, quiet village called Praya Grande, which, during the season of amusement, is a place of general resort. It contains several potteries, and is famed for the quantity of fine sweetmeats, made and exported. At the southern extremity of Praya is a huge mass of rocks, which, apparently, have been thrown from the main land by some natural convulsion ; upon its very sum- mit (a most romantic situation truly) stands a church or a dwelling, accessible from the main by a short wooden bridge. From this point the beach of the placid bay of Inrufuba sweeps, almost like a circle, to fort Santa Cruz. Along the shore is a straggling village, interspersed with gardens, and surrounded by luxuriant plantations of the cofiee tree. We have now glanced round the bay and arrived at Santa Cruz, between which and the Sugar Loaf, the waters roll into this magnificent harbor; — an amphitheatre whose bounds are hills rising one behind the other, valleys and mountains that are smiled on throughout the year both by Flora and Pomona, yielding flowers and fruits, grateful in their fragrance, and lus- cious to the most refined and delicate taste. Over this sheet of water, passage boats, under a press of sail, are stretching in every direction, bearing parties from shore to shore. The naked negro toils at his oar — the black soldier in gay costume lolls in his curtained barge, wreathed in the smoke of his cigar — the tatooed slave paddles his rude canoe — the barges of the men-of-war, with feathering oars, are shooting from point to point — the men-of-war sit majestically, and their flags and pen- nants flutter proudly on the breeze — the forts and castles frown sullenly — the palace smiles — the church and convent look grave — the hills are lovely — the mountains grand — the grace- ful palm tree nods. NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 23 CHAPTER II. Walk in the streets of Rio — ^Imperial Chapels — Rua Direita — Slaves — Rua d'Ouvidor — Marimba — Abdication of Dom Pedro — Regency of Pedro II. Many years ago, I met in Brazil, an Austrian gentleman, who, having spent several years in England, spoke English remarkably well. Certain circumstances of a private nature, in which the heart was deeply interested, which he narrated, ripened an acquaintanceship of a few weeks into intimacy and friendship. His name was Brunner. When I last saw him, in 1826, he held a colonel's commission in the imperial army of Brazil. The first inquiries that suggested themselves on landing at the palace stairs in September 1831, were whether Brunner was still in the city, and whether he was still lamenting his disappointment; — his ^'ladye love" had played him false! I made my way among the boatmen and venders of fruit always standing on the slip, and looked at the sentinel and his box. Whether any thing had been changed, or whether he had been relieved since my last visit, 1 doubt. The same high cloth cap covered his woolly head, and the same musket was trailed over his shoulder — the same soiled belt and cartouche box hung at his side, and as little energy was displayed in his whole ap- pearance as can possibly be imagined. A paper cigar burned quietly between his lips, which he seemed too lazy to puff to prevent it from going out. While observing this sauntering soldier, I was suddenly seized by the hand and welcomed to Brazil. It was Brunner. He had recognised me across the palace square, and almost breathless came running to greet me. ** When did you arrive — how long do you stay — how have you been ?" Unexpected meetings with friends are always agreeable, even at home, and when one sees a man suddenly stand before him in a strange land, whom he is conjecturing may be dead. 24 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. or what is the same thing, gone away, the pleasure is enhanced — imagination cannot conjure up any thing half so pleasant. As I answered the questions, my arm resting on Brunner's, we walked towards the imperial chapel, which fronts the quay. 1 observed that my friend was attired d, le citoyen, and at once inferred that a change had taken place in his pursuits. "You have doffed your regimentals?" <'0h yes ! — true," he replied, "I followed your advice in that ; you told me, you may remember, " The charm of life that's lost in love, Is never found in fame !" and I considered that, with some other things you said, very seriously, and in consequence, changed the muster roll into a leger." "And got married in consequence of the change?" "If you discovered that by my countenance, you deserve credit as a physiognomist. I have indeed found 'a Leah my recompense to be' — but more of that anon." " I must congratulate you at any rate — for a man of the world would never marry in Brazil without making himself wealthy, because happiness is seldom the companion of a fo- reign wife and poverty." "Thank you — thank you — I am much better — I mean, 1 am much more useful in the world noiv than I was as a sol- dier ; but you shall have an opportunity of judging for yourself. Do you observe any change in the appearance of the "Praga de San Jos^" or " Largo do Pago ?" The fountain seems to be just as much frequented, and I do not perceive that the chattering of the negroes is less ; nor have they lost any skill in balancing their water-kegs. If we may judge from the heavy burdens they carry upon it, negroes care less for the head than we do. How is it, that pressure does not spread the arch of the skull and make it assume an unna- tural shape, as in the case of Indians of certain tribes ! Some of the slaves here carry almost constantly, the weight of fifteen or sixteen gallons of water on the head nearly all day long, moving so steadily under it, that keg and man appear to be NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 25 parts of the same machine. A negro instinctively puts every thing on his head be it light or heavy, yet I am not aware of any race that is remarkably flat headed. " There is not so much military show about the palace now as during the reign of Pedro I. We were wont to see each of those staffs along the palace wall, supporting a musket ; and troops parading at this hour, and a fine band playing." " That is easily accounted for — • Grim visaged war has smoothed his wrinkled front.* The army has been but lately disbanded, and only men enough kept to garrison the forts." We were now in front of the imperial chapels which open on the square called the place of St. Joseph. The emperor's chapel is amongst the richest and most splendid in Rio ; it is not large, but the whole interior is arranged with a due regard to taste. Every person uncovers while he passes the open door, or bows, and signs himself with the cross as he enters. Several females were kneeling in different parts of the open space, on carpets or mats brought by their slaves, while the men were content to protect their knees from the dusty pave- ment by spreading out a pocket handkerchief On either side of the church are small altars dedicated to saints whose por- traits or statues, carved in wood or cast in wax as large as life, stand in niches above, decorated with a profusion of tinsel. A low, wooden balustrade runs parallel with the wall on each side of the church, forming narrow aisles in front of the minor shrines, and separating them from the centre or nave, at the farthest end of which stands the principal altar, rendered mag- nificent at the expense of a great deal of wealth and labor. The ceiling is arched, and ornamented with stucco and twisted mouldings richly gilt. In all Catholic countries, the churches are open from dawn till sunset, and during that interval, persons may be always found at their devotions. Sunrise, however, is the most fash- ionable hour. Here, the wealthy go in their palanquins, dressed in black silk, with a manto of the same material, or ai lace veil, worn tastefully over the head and shoulders. 4 26 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. *'This is certainly a splendid temple," said I, "but it is easy to perceive through all the glitter that it is only an imi- tation of reality — the golden candlesticks are but gilded wood, and the tall wax candles are only half what they seem. Why endeavor to practice a deception in a church ? this most igno- rant devotee that kneels must know that th« apparently tall candles are tin tubes, with wax ends." " Had you been in Italy, you would not admire this church so much ; it is not so rich now as it formerly was. The ad- joining temple is the chapel of the empress, but I do not think it superior in beauty or decoration to that we have just left." We walked along the "Rua Direita," which may be con- sidered the "Broadway" of Rio, and stopped before the door of the "Hotel du Nord," which, like a spendthrift, had seen its best days in its youth. Degeneration, even of a tavern, falls unpleasantly upon the sight; this one, from being the best "public," has dwindled, in five years, to a mean tippling shop. From this spot, we looked along the street, and a gayer or more various scene cannot easily be imagined. Men of busi- ness were hurrying along the side walks, jostling the leisurely moving free black, or the shop keeper smoking at his own door ; the native military officers were deliberately striding about with an important, arrogant air, the calexas (or calegas) and seges were rattling along by dint of lashing and spurring the mules — the high boots with heavy soles and heels, armed with plated spurs, the glazed leather hat and high cockade, distinguish the calegero from every other kind of servant in the city — gangs of slaves, united by iron collars and chains ten or twelve feet in length, were trotting along, with bags of cofiee or sugar on their heads, endeavouring to drown the sad clanking of their irons, in the notes of a song and chorus, which, in happier times, they may have sung beneath their native shades. Each one of these gangs was followed by a black soldier, carrying an unsheathed bayonet in one hand and a heavy whip in the other. Next, we saw approaching, a gay palanquin, borne by two slaves at a short trot. Presently it rested in front of a store, and a sallow female hand, covered with jewels, pushed aside the velvet curtains, and the vender NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 27 ®f tapes and laces ran from his counter and bowed obsequi- ously. Immediately, there was an Italage of stuffs of various kinds, and the marchand was eulogizing his goods and bar- gain, bowing the whole time. The lady purchased or rejected something — I saw no purse ; the curtain again hid the hand and the jewels ; — the slaves trotted on with their mistress. Whiz, flew a rocket, and snap, crack, crack, exploded a bunch of squibs from amidst a crowd of half naked negro boys, who moved along with an unmeaning shout. Then came a fat sal- low looking priest, under a broad brimmed hat, rolled up at the sides, with a long silken cord terminated in a tassel hang- ing down his back. He wore a long silk robe or gown, and a pair of heavy shoes with large buckles. Close after him moved, in short struts, a precocious Brazilian dandy, of Liliputian stature, perhaps fourteen years old, and attired like a man of twenty-five ; wearing a stick in one hand, and carrying a satchel in the other; he stepped along, in imminent danger of disap- pearing beneath his cocked hat that towered over his head like an extinguisher, though worn for distinction. Then followed a dozen slaves or water carriers, all naked. The next figure, was that of a portly sedate looking gentleman whose moon formed countenance stood forth to assert his claims to the cha- racter of a hon vivant of imperturbable equanimity. He wore a cocked hat with ostrich feather trimming, a broad tailed coat, vest with capacious pockets, neat unmentionables, all of black, buckled at the knee over a pair of red silk ribbed hose, and a pair of square toed shoes with huge paste buckles. One of his hands, with ruffle round the wrist, holding a glove, he carried behind him, while the other-r— gloved- — swung a gold mounted stick from the Moluccas, whichTie struck on the pavement at almost every step his gently stooped figure advanced. This was a congressman — an M. P. ** This gay scene indicates a business like disposition in the people ; but the clank of those chains, clouds the pleasing re- flections otherwise excited. The slaves cannot be treated here with humanity?" <*My dear Sir," replied Brunner, "you are mistaken. Slaves in this country are treated with the greatest humanity 28 THKEE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. and kindness, and in many cases are even too much indulged. Those negroes who have just passed us are government slaves, who have become public property through the agency of their own crimes. Every one of them has committed either assault, robbery, or murder. Taking away life is a punishment hardly known in Brazil. When a negro is convicted of any outrage, or infraction of the law, he is usually sentenced to labor in chains for a limited period, at the expiration of which he is re- turned to his master." " Does the master receive no compensation for the services of the slave in the mean time ?" " No. They say the loss is a just punishment for not having taught the slave better." "Are these convicts hired to individuals by the govern- ment, or is there any public work on which they are em- ployed ?" "The custom house employs many of them, many are em- ployed as scavengers, and some in levelling hills and blasting rocks in the suburbs." We walked slowly on, and turned up the " Rua d'Ouvidor," which is lined with fancy stores and shops of the French "two- distes." Next to the "Rua Direita," it is perhaps the busiest and most fashionable. It leads to the theatre and opera house. The emperor was wont to dash through it, occasionally driving, with his own imperial hands, four grays of exquisite beauty, headed by his trumpeter, and followed by a cavalry guard ; — then off flew every hat, and every body stood aside to let the imperial coachman pass. My attention was attracted by a crowd of negroes in the street, in the midst of which one was dancing to the sound of a rude instrument, accompanied by the voice. " What is this ?" I asked my companion. " Nothing more than a few idle negroes of the neighborhood, assembled together to dance the ' guachambo,' a sort of fandan- go, to the sound of the 'marimba,' which claims Africa as the country of its invention." It is generally made of some light species of wood, and may be compared to the toe part of a shoe. On the flat side, or sole part, are secured nearly in their NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 29 centres, eight pieces of steel wire about six inches long ; their ends curve upwards, and being of different lengths, form an octave. The longer ends of these keys play free, and when touched, vibrate a sleepy sort of note, which can hardly be called disagreeable. The instrument is clasped between the hands, hanging down in front, and is played upon by the thumbs. There is another form of the " marimba,^' in which the keys are placed on a thin piece of board ; this is secured to a thinly scraped cocoanut shell, and is the better kind, sound- ing much clearer, and more musical. The servants, (porters) who are always seated at the doors of private dwellings — which by the by always have the family coach standing at the foot of the stairs, on the lower floor, fitted for the purpose, by way of demonstrating the quality of the master — pass hours together, nodding over their own music, produced with about the same effort required to twirl the thumbs ; — playing on the *' marimba" is just one degree beyond '^ dolcefar niinte.^' When we came up, the dancing had ceased, and the blacks were making way for us to pass. I called the musician, that I might examine his instrument. He grinned, and appeared gra- tified by the notice taken of him. He was young and full of health, but with a most stupid expression of countenance, pro- duced by a chain of fleshy nodules extending from the point of his nose in a line over his forehead ; when his attention was not otherwise engaged, his eyes were always directed towards this distinguishing mark. At our request, he played a lively air, and accompanied himself with a short see-saw motion of the body. So soon as he commenced, all the negroes drew nearer and nearer, till we were completely encircled by grin- ning spectators. I inquired into the origin of the bumps, and Brunner informed me that it is a species of tatooing, done in infancy by their parents, designed as the distinguishing mark of the tribe. He pointed out in the crowd around us, one whose face was scratched or gashed on one cheek ; one marked in the same way on both cheeks ; some on their temples ; some on their breasts and backs ; and there was one who had each of his teeth cut off diagonally, so as to make them serrated or 30 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. saw-like. Common misery has not caused the negroes to for- get the feuds of their tribes, for they have brought mutual and perhaps hereditary hatred with them, and it is supposed that the safety of the whites, whose numbers are very small, de- pends upon this circumstance. Though this may be partially true, I suspect that apathy, which is a characteristic of the African races, is the reason why they do not rise up en masse and destroy their masters. Next we looked into an hotel kept by an Englishman ; it is the best — the worst — the only one of the kind in the place ; it is entirely supported by foreigners — natives rarely visit pub- lic inns. After looking round for a moment, and noticing a sign over the door, announcing that *' bains chauds^' might be procured, we returned to the "Rua d'Ourives," which is en- tirely occupied by silver-smiths, jewellers, and lapidaries, and following its course for a quarter of a mile, turned to the right, and in a few minutes entered the counting house of my friend. We found several gentlemen conversing about the change that had then just taken place in the political state of Brazil. When the usual salutation was over, the subject was resumed. " What do you say were the circumstances," asked a gen- tleman of the party, addressing himself to Brunner, ''that led to the abdication ?" '< There were perhaps several," replied Brunner, "that may be considered as conducing to that end. A jealousy has long ex- isted between the native Brazilians and the Portuguese, which was originally caused and kept up b}' Dom Pedro. The refu- gees, who fled from the proscription and tyrannical wrath of Dom Miguel, always found here, not only protection and an asylum, but many have been received into places of power and emolument under the government, to the exclusion of the Bra- zilians, who were not slow to perceive and feel, that the em- peror placed more confidence in them than in his own subjects. He was constantly surrounded by them, and seemed to be much influenced by their advice in almost every thing. Envious of the distinction and honors heaped upon these foreigners, as the inhabitants of Portugal were termed, the natives conceived NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 31 themselves injured, and gave a voice to their grievances. Mur- murs grew into complaints, and representations were made which passed unnoticed, until the emperor was told, in pretty- plain terms, that he must change his ministry. Even this step was treated with contempt, and when Dom Pedro thought seriously of regaining the confidence of the people, which he had lost, it was too late. The ministry was changed and re- changed successively, to please one or another of the many political parties which, as a consequence to the state of things, sprung forth like so many heads from that political hydra — public discontent. These parties were composed of people who had their views in elevating certain persons to a place near the throne. The public ear was occupied by vague and contradic- tory rumors and reports ; and the minds of the people became filled with uncertainty and alarm. Among other groundless and ridiculous reports, was one that there was a design against the constitution, and the liberties of the people — that this con- spiracy was the plotting of the Portuguese ; and, however pre- posterous and unreasonable it may appear, it was said that Dom Pedro was at the head of it ! " The emperor, about this time, had been on a visit of in- spection to a neighboring province, and under the pretext of receiving him, on the day of his return, the refugees, with many Portuguese who have been long residing here, paraded the streets with arms, in squads of forty or fifty, uttering cries which were highly irritating to the feelings of the natives, and even looked upon by them as seditious. The Brazilians were exasperated, and attempted to put down the obnoxious party by force, and in consequence several skirmishes took place in. the streets, and several lives were lost on both sides. This happened on the thirteenth, fourteenth, and fifteenth of March. The shops were shut up ; foreigners thought of taking refuge, with their efiects, on board of the men-of-war of their respec- tive nations ; and all business was suspended for several days. " With a view of restoring peace, or of obtaining at least a cessation of hostilities amongst all parties, and of soothing and tranquillizing the public mind, the emperor at once appointed 32 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. a new ministry, composed entirely of Brazilians whose liberal sentiments were universally acknowledged. This step was popular, and public order was again restored, but was short lived. The ministry was again changed for men who were ex- tremely obnoxious to the Brazilian party. The greatest anx- iety was now manifested by all classes of citizens. Expressions of their indignation, warmly and publicly spoken, followed, and great numbers, as if by common consent, assembled in the < Campo Santa Ana,^ since called the ^ Praga d^Jicclama- gdo.^ A deputation was sent from them to the emperor, urging him, if he wished to preserve order and avoid civil war and bloodshed, to dismiss the Portuguese ministry, and reinstate that which he had last deposed. In spite of the entreaties of General Lima, the military commandant of the province, who was in high favor with the people, and of the tears of the em- press, he refused the request of the deputation, and obstinately adhered to his resolution. The emperor's reply, endorsed by the ministry, and the order for the mob to disperse, was scarcely read, before it was torn to pieces and trampled under foot ! The troops soon began to take part with the people, who were now armed and prepared for the worst. An attack was apparently meditated somewhere, and before ten o'clock that night even the body guard at the palace had gone over and joined the insurgents. The emperor found that he had been deceived by his courtiers, who had relied on the support of the army, and as the only possible means remaining of preventing bloodshed, and restoring tranquillity, he resolved on abdica- tion. In this dilemma he sought the aid of counsel from the British and French legations, and received the Charges late that same night at the palace. Exercising the power given him by the constitution, he abdicated in favor of his son Dom Pedro de Alcantara, under the title of Pedro II ! This last act was received, early on the morning of the seventh of April, with joyful acclamations, and the same day, before eight o'clock, having hastily collected what money and valuables he could, the ex-emperor, with the empress and the young queen of Portugal, embarked privately on board of H. B. M. line-of- NOTICES OF BRAZIL. ^8 battle Ship Warspite, leaving the young emperor and princesses, at the palace of San Christovao !* "The national assembly had been ordered by the emperor to convene, and though many members had not yet arrived in town, they met, and according to the constitution, appointed a regency, to administer the government and laws during the minority. On the 9th of April, the young emperor, Dom Pe- dro II., made his public entry into the city, amidst the shouts and 'vivas' of the populace. A due quantity of gunpowder and rockets, as is usual on all great occasions, were expended, to manifest the public loyalty to the new sovereign. *' Tranquillity was again restored. The emperor in a few days set sail for England, on board of H. B. M. Frigate Vo- lage, and the young queen of Portugal on board of the French Corvette La Seine." "Then I presume every thing is now quiet?" "Not perfectly so — there is a party in favor of a republic, but it will die. Every body who knows any thing of the ex- tent and resources of Brazil, must decide against it. Two mu- lattoes, who were educated in France by the emperor, are said to be the leaders of the republican party." "Did property sustain any injury from the rioters or insur- gents during the disturbance ?" "Not at all. The Brazilians are a pacijique people, and would rader enjoy der right by courtesy dan by force," re- marked an old gentleman, who until this moment had been • The emperor, in his real character of nonchalance, was seen, before he left the harbor, eagerly employed catching fish ! "Dom Pedro was born at Lisbon, on the 12th of October, 1798; he was the second son of Dom John VI. and of Carlota Joaquina, daughter of Charles IV. of Spain ; but by the premature death of his elder brother, Antonio, he be- came heir-presumptive to the crown. He was of a weakly temperament when a child, but showed early some of that vivacity of character which has since distinguished him. He was educated by the Padre Antonio d'Arrabida, an in- telligent ecclesiastic, who early impressed him with sentiments of religion, for which he is still distinguished; but his education was in nothing else remarka- ble, except that, in common with his sisters, he acquired some knowledge of Latin, which he has not yet forgotten." — Walsh. Notices of Brazil. Vol.1. London, 1830. 5 34 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. silent. " Pah! Vat can dene miserable devil do — when dey have de arms dey put de ball into de gun first, and den depou- dre — vat use is dat? eh!" He accompanied the concluding question with a shrug of the shoulders, and an elevation of his brows, that threw his forehead into transverse wrinkles ; and take him altogether, the speaker looked like a mammoth note of interrogation. " Then the conflicts were not very bloody, I presume ?" "Bloody !" exclaimed the old man, changing his posture and features till he resembled in some degree an interjection, "I tell you, Sare^ one hundred good men vill take de town any time. Dey allow fifty black rascal to run about de street widout opposition, and cut de troat of de women, vile de sodger run in de house and lock de door ! Bloody — vy ! Save, dey are d d coward, and as to de property, dey are afraid to steal it !" As he concluded, he made his exit by a back door. *' The regency, I believe, is a trinity, or triumvirate, or tri- umviracy ?" *' Yes ! It is composed of three members of the general as- sembly, elected by that body, the eldest of the three being the president. All decrees and laws are issued by the regency, in the name of the emperor. The following are the regents and present ministry. Regency. Francisco de Lima e Silva, ) Jose da Costa Carvalho, > Regents. Joao Braulio Muniz, ) Jose Bonifacio d'Andrada — Tutor to the Emperor. Ministers. Home Department^ Jose Linho Coutinho. Foreign Jlffairs, Francisco Carneivo de Campos. Justice, Diogo Antonio Feijo. War, Jose Manuel de Moraes. Navy, Jos6 Manuel de Almeida. Treasury, Antonio Homen do Amaral. NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 35 '^ Andrada, one of the most popular, as well as learned men in the country, was named by the emperor ; which is an impe- rial prerogative, granted by the constitution, on the vacation of the throne, either by death or abdication."* At this moment the old gentleman returned. He was about five feet high, broad across the shoulders, and rather corpulent. His head was small, covered with a short stubborn growth of black and gray hair — his forehead rather low, with bushy eye- brows — small twinkling black eyes, well set into his head — nose somewhat pug — and a large mouth filled with fine teeth. A constant smile played over the old man's weather-beaten countenance. Though near sixty years old, he displayed great animation of manner — it might almost be called fidgetty — and you at once conceded that he was a fine little old fellow. He wore a short gray frock coat, with bjack velvet collar and trim- mings — black vest — and blue pantaloons, over laced boots. When he listened, he thrust his hands into his pockets, and alternately raised and let himself down from his tiptoes, throw- ing his head to one side, and seemed ready to laugh in your face. His speech was generally broken, and he snapped his fingers, threw up his eyebrows, and sometimes his shoulders were raised so slowly and significantly, that you might very reasonably entertain fears that his head would disappear be- tween them, like a turtle's into its shell ; and this was all by the way of punctuation. Brunner presented me to this gentleman as Dom Bento, his father-in-law. He drew me by the hand, and turning his head, said "come gentlemen, de soup is ready." He led me into a dining room, and continued, " here we take our lunch, or soup, it being too far from our dwelling to return to the counting-house after dinner, and too long to fast from eight in the morning till sunset," All the merchants, at least the foreign ones, adopt this plan. About a dozen persons sat down, besides several clerks. The repast consisted of soup and bouillie, with yams, &c. and wine and fz'uit. • In December 1833, he became somewhat unpopular, and one party was anxious that he should resign, but he positively refused. 36 THKEE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. CHAPTER III. Museum — Aqueduct — Banana tree — Farinha — Policemen — Slave of a natural- ist — Casa da Agua. The Museum is open daily to the public, from twelve until two o'clock, and, as it should be every where with institutions of the kind, the admission is free to every body. Brunner and I visited it, ho\yever, early in the morning, by special favor. The utility of a national museum, where access may be had at all proper times, free of expense, is incalculable ; and particu- larly to a country, which depends, like ours, upon the general information of its inhabitants for the existence of its govern- ment. Our optics collect much more rapidly, and preserve more faithfully, information or knowledge, than any of our senses, and what is thus once acquired is seldom forgotten. A museum established under proper regulations, would create a taste for natural science, and enable talent, in the most indigent circumstances, to gain knowledge which could hardly fail to make the possessor a better man, and a more useful member of society. This collection occupies several rooms, communicating with each other, in the second story of a building at the corner of the Praga d'Acclamagao. The cabinet of minerals is certainly a very good one ; probably equal to any one on this continent in the metallic specimens and precious stones. The birds are badly prepared, most of them being without eyes, and many are lying on their sides. The curators are at present (1S31,) arranging them according to the classification by Cuvier. The native Indian curiosities are numerous ; some of the war dress- es, which are composed of feathers of many brilliant colors, are really beautiful. Besides these, which are of chief interest, being of this country, there are many foreign curiosities and specimens of natural history. In one of the apartments there are several very good pictures, and two or three Sarcophagi. NOTICES OS" BRAZIL. 37 During our visit, every attention was extended to us, and I left, deeply impressed with the kindness and urbanity of the cura- tors. We passed along one side of the " Campo Santa Ana," now called the " Acclamagao," towards the Aqueduct. After turn- ing two or three streets, which are not so much frequented as either the Rua d'Ouvidor, or Rua Direita, we came beneath that part of this great work which is carried over a valley two hundred yards wide, supported on two rows of arches, one resting upon the other, at a height of eighty or ninety feet. In the streets through which we had just walked, I observed that a favorite pastime with a large part of the female community, is to loll out of the window, supporting the trellis shutter, which opens upwards, against the head. Thus every thing falls under their notice, while they are ({mte perdues, except to persons on the same side of the street. This habit is not confined to fe- males alone. Men, almost en cuerpo, are often seen idling in this way for hours together. In this climate, trellis shutters supply the place of blinds and sash. We turned to the right, and ascending the hill towards the Corcovado, passed a number of negresses, washing and spread- ing out their clothes upon the grass to bleach. On the summit of this hill, which is at least two hundred feet high, stands the convent of Santa Teressa. The windows are barred, and trel- lised, and sashed so securely as almost to exclude the air and even the light of day. Near this spot the Aqueduct makes an angle in which there is built a hut. ^'The negroes who live in this cottage," said Brunner, <' spend time in drowzy laziness. All their wants being sup- plied by their garden, they seldom descend to the city." "But they must labor at certain seasons to make that pro- duce?" "Not so. The soil is so fertile, that, with little more exer- tion or attention than is required to cast the seed upon it, a plentiful crop is produced !" "But this little spot will not — cannot yield them their en- tire sustenance ; it may provide fruit and vegetables, but they also require bread and animal food ?" 3S THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. <'They seldom see bread or meat, unless it be in the form of 'farinha' or tapioca, and this a little labor supplies; if they do not get it, for those who have so few wants, the banana forms a substitute." The banana requiring neither care nor toil in cultivation, becomes as useful as wheat itself.* A few months are sufficient to produce the fruit from the sucker (by which it is propagated), and all the attention necessary, is to soften the soil about its roots, and every year or two, cut off those stocks which have been productive. When green, the fruit will yield a species of flour equal to that of rice; when ripe, it is delicious to the palate, and highly nutritious. Eight or ten large bananas are sufficient food for a man during a whole day. This plant not only affords bread and fruit, but also a very fine sugar may be extracted from the latter. It enables man to live almost without labor, and its ample leaves shade him from a tropical sun. It is really a beautiful plant. It grows about twelve feet high ; its branches or leaves are a foot broad, and from six to eight feet long; they unite at the base, and spread asunder at the top. When the leaf first appears, it is rolled, and rises from amidst those which are already expanded ; and when mature, unfolds itself into a spathe, and droops with the rest. The fruit is produced in a large conical or pear-shaped mass at the end of the stalk, which bends towards the earth by its weight. This mass consists of loricating leaves, which enclose the young fruit. As it ripens, the leaves curl up and drop off, disclosing a circle of bananas, attached by their bases to the stalk ; the second and third circle appear, but smaller than the first, be- cause the nutritive juices are less, and at last the stalk is termi- nated with a plummet-shaped end and abortive blossoms. At first the color of the fruit is green ; but as it ripens, turns yel- low — a beautiful king's yellow — which contrasts finely with the clear maize green of the leaves. " In my walks through the city, I have seen a great deal of the ' farinha' you speak of, and I am told, it forms a chief arti- cle of diet with the slave population." • See Humboldt's New Spain. Dennis. Histoire du Br^sil. NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 39 *' It is not only extensively used by the slaves and lower classes of whites in Rio, but forms a standing dish on the tables of the rich, made into various deserts. This Jatropha Mani- hot is the great substitute for all bread stuffs. It is prepared without trouble, and will keep for any length of time without suffering from the attacks of insects." We followed the Aqueduct in its windings and ascents for two miles, and passed by a hut of reeds and mud, built on the very verge of the precipice. Before the door, which faced the Aqueduct, were extended on the ground, two men, resting their heads on their hands, with the elbow on the earth. They were listless, drowsy, lazy. Beside them were two or three hounds, their long Spanish or Portuguese fowling pieces and knives. A third man was leaning against the hut, sustaining a pipe with his left hand, while his right was applied across his breast to support his left elbow. His eyes were fixed upon the ground. A little beyond the hut were two slaves, chained together by the ankles, sweeping the path ; they were entirely naked, with the exception of the loins, which were girded with a piece of blue cotton stuff. Their masters wore large trowsers of no definite color, with shirts which had once been white, but from negligent ablution, or no ablution, now appeared of a smoky yellow. They had neither caps nor shoes ; one of the recumbents, however, held his toes in a pair of slippers. When we came up, the dogs commenced growling and mut- tering, and rolling their eyes upon us, but without raising their long noses from the ground. The man lying nearest the path, laid his hand upon the collar of one of them, and they all be- came quiet. When we were near enough to have trodden on the fellow, he slowly drew up his legs, and made an effort to fish with his toe one of the slippers, which was dropped in the movement; but he failed, and assuming a look of resignation, permitted it to remain at the risk of being walked over. The one leaning against the house raised his eyes, and scowling upon us from under a profusion of black, uncombed hair, mut- tered a sort of salutation, but without moving a m^uscle — the very smoke escaped from his mouth without receiving an im- pulse. 40 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. '* You would never guess," said Brunner, "that these are the police or watchmen, stationed here to prevent robberies from being committed by runaway slaves, who hide themselves in the mountain thickets, and elude every effort made to appre- hend them." Just before arriving at the hut above mentioned, there is a break in the Aqueduct, and the path changes from the right to the left side of the work. From this spot we enjoyed a most enchanting bird's eye view. To the northward and westward runs a valley, sprinkled with gardens and hamlets ; beyond the vale, rise the palace of San Christovao, and the chateau of the Marchioness of Santos ; a lake spreads its peaceful waters to the scented air ; the bay is filled with shipping, and dotted with green islands ; and the town of Praya Grande, in miniature from distance, is seen on the opposite shore. On the other hand, far below, is a deep glen, where white cottages contrast with the deep green of the coffee tree and the gold of the orange ; the Sugar Loaf stood high, and before us the Corcova- do, still higher and wilder, almost overhung our path. *' Lakes, forests, cities, plains extending wide, The pomp of kings, the shepherd's humble pride." We continued our walk. The path was less beaten, and the sward yielded to the foot like the richest carpet. The whole way was " flowery, wild and sweet." All was hushed. Our steps frequently disturbed " the green and speckled lizards," that darted from the sunshine of the path and side of the Aque- duct, to the shade of their retreats, in some crevice of the work. A few wild notes struck the ear, and the gay winged butterflies sported in seeming dalliance with each other, ever and anon resting upon the flowers, which in every direction were blooming around us, while the golden-crested humming bird sipped the nectar which nature had prepared. But man will not permit all this in quiet. The cabinet of the naturalist and amateur must be filled with "specimens," and both but- terfly and bird lose their lives for the particolor of their down, and the gay, varying tints of their plumage. Presently we met a man sweeping a gauze net through the NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 41 air, and pinning the insects which he caught upon his hat. He was a tall, raw-boned mulatto, under a broad brimmed hat, stuck full of insects writhing and fluttering in the agonies of death. His white cotton jacket might have been mistaken for a pincushion, the sleeves and lapels were so full of pins. Though barefooted, he was tidy. A bag, containing gauze, thread, &c., for a net, to replace that on his pole, should it be torn, was slung on one side, and on the other, a large, light wooden box, to receive his game. At our request he showed to us the result of his day's excursion, and appeared gratified by our notice of him ; his box was half full of butterflies and various insects. After parting with him, Brunner asked whether I thought this man badly or inhumanely treated. "You do not mean to say that this man is a slave?" *' He is a slave, and belongs to a German, who gains a living by making collections of birds, insects, shells, &c., which he sells to travellers. He has several slaves whom he has taught to prepare these specimens, and two or three others who hawk them about the streets." When we arrived at the "Casa da Agua," which is four miles from the city, we determined to rest. The *' Casa da Agua" is a covered basin or receptacle for the water, which rushes down the mountain in a narrow stream. A slab, set in the wall, bears date 1744, the time of commencing the work, and 1807, the period of its repair. Just above the " Casa da Agua" is a broad spreading rock, in the surface of which, are several slight excavations, filled with limpid water by tiny rills which wander from the main stream. The rocks rise nearly perpendicular around this spot ; the shade was perfect, and the air perfumed with sweet odours. While viewing the scene, and deliberating whether, in spite of the lateness of the hour, we should continue our walk to the observatory on the Corcovado, still a thousand feet above us, and only to be reached by a long, circuitous, and laborious path, a negro parted the bushes next the valley below, and stood nearly naked before us. He removed a piece of a woollen cap from his head, in token of respect, and saluted us with 6 42 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC <'Viva Senhores," grinning in the height of good nature. He might have been forty years of age ; he was well made, and remarkably athletic, yet his figure was that of a youth of twen- ty. His temples were tatooed, and his teeth cut off diagonally. His whole dress consisted of a pair of coarse, loose breeches. We asked him many questions ; he told us that he had been brought from Mozambique when young, but he did not express any desire to return, nor any regret for the loss of his parents. With some hesitation he accepted of a cigar, and it was some time before he was persuaded to light it; when he did, how- ever, he puffed in ecstacies, and I concluded that he had never before regaled himself with a real Havana, and said so. Brun- ner replied, that it was not the cigar which gave him pleasure, but the honor which he conceived he was receiving at our hands — in all probability a white man had never addressed him, except in a sharp, imperative tone. He went his ways, and we sat ourselves down upon the rock and lighted our cigars. CHAPTER IV. The Opera — The Currency. The night on which I visited the opera, " La Italiana in Algeri" was performed in a masterly style. The scenery was good, and the orchestra full and efficient. The company is composed of Italians, brought here by the emperor, Pedro I. The house is large, and contains one hundred and twelve boxes, besides the imperial box which fronts the stage. The pit is extensive, and the seats are separated from each other, like arm chairs, and some are so arranged that they may be kept under lock and key. The prompter is placed in front of the stage so conspicuously, that the dramatic illusion is in a great degree lost. A box or wooden hood is built about two NOTICES OF BRAZIL. , 43 feet above the level of the stage, and in the centre of the stage lights, intended to conceal him, but answers the end very badly, for as his eyes follow the lines of his book, his head, generally covered with a white net cap, crowned with a tassel, is seen moving from side to side ; and his voice sometimes rises above that of the actors, so that at times, they seem only to gesticulate while he reads. The house is dimly lighted with dingy tallow candles. Order is preserved and enforced by a number of black soldiers, distributed through the pit. The house was full, which argued much in favor of the mu- sical taste of Brazil. The ladies were dressed much in the style of our own belles, and wore the hair high on the top of the head, ornamented with artificial flowers made of feathers ; these are beautiful, and are the best imitation of natural flowers I have seen ; they are made in the convents at Bahia. Jewelry is more fashionable than with us. Many dark eyes, lively countenances, and fine busts, appeared in the dress row, yet I will not say the ladies were handsome; I complained of the immoveable, placid, unmeaning expression of most of the faces, but I did not quarrel with the brunettete of their complexion. There was not a female in the pit ; negroes and whites were promiscuously mixed. After the opera there was some fine dancing ; but according to my notion, the performers should diminish the extent of their genuflexions, and increase the thickness and longitude of their dresses : they appeared, " In very thin clothing, and but little of it." This over, we walked into the cofiee room. Blacks and whites were gay and noisy, eating and drinking together, ap- parently on the most intimate terms of equality. We next as- cended to a small bar in the fourth tier, where several gentle- men were refreshing themselves with lemonade, orgeat, and similar beverages. The Brazilians* are a temperate people, seldom drink in the evening, and usually confine their libations to wine, and that. Port. The annual consumption of Oporto wine is 32,000 pipes of 145 gallons each, equal to 4,640,000 gallons ! The import duty is only six dollars the pipe. 44 THREE TKA.RS IN THE PACIFIC. I gave the bar keeper a Spanish dollar to pay for some le- monade. He balanced it on his finger and offered to change it for four "petaks," which is little more than one-half of its value. I insisted that it was worth two " mil reis," and several native gentlemen present told him the same thing, but it was some time before he was satisfied, and at last said, " well, I am doing this at a great risk, and I fear I shall lose both mo- ney and lemonade." I remarked to Brunner that there appeared to be a great difficulty in the rate of exchange. "Yes," he replied, "it is owing to the fluctuating value of the currency, which changes almost daily. At present a Spanish dollar is worth seventy-two < vintems' or 1,440 reis, in copper, and 2,000 reis in the paper of the bank of Brazil. By this you will find that copper is at a premium of about 38 per cent. A thousand hard dollars will be received in trade at 1,920 reis each, but to purchase the same number, each one will cost 2,020 reis."* " Then it is necessary, when transacting business, to be al- ways well informed of the value of money. I have noticed in the market, that money has a different value at stalls only a few yards apart, and in order to avoid difficulty, it is best to resort to the money-changers, who give copper for silver at a very small premium." << Yes ; but you lose by it. They say that copper is at a pre- mium of 33 J per cent, and when they change a note of 10,000 reis, they calculate the discount on that amount instead of the copper which you receive, and thus you lose about 400 reis." "Is not the bank paper as good as copper ? neither can be made a tender out of the country, and I suppose the bank will redeem its notes.*' "The paper never will be redeemed ; though it is said that the bank has sufficient in its vaults to do so. The copper has an intrinsic value, for when the worst comes to the worst, we • December 1833. The exchange has risen j the dollar is now worth only 1,300 reis. NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 45 can make it into pans, and besides, to the northern provinces it is nearly a par remittance." <'Then the bank is not a national one?" "No! It was chartered to a company. The government became indebted to it, and being unable to pay, assumed the management of the bank, and to enhance its credit, endorsed the notes, which only circulate within the province of Rio de Janeiro. The other provinces have their respective banks." "Still I do not understand why the value of money should change almost daily. I may sell goods to-day for a certain sum, and to-morrow they may be of one-third less value." " Such is the fact. This fluctuation is only attributable to the frequent exportation of large amounts of copper to the north." " Then the bank must make large dividends if it does much business ?" " Technically speaking, the bank does no business whatever. It receives deposites, but does not discount, and the only source of profit is its property, and the loss or wearing out of its notes.'* <* Goods must pay a handsome advance on the invoice to yield profit, while the rate of exchange is so high ?" " Such would be the case if remittances were made to the United States in coin ; this country afibrds, however, good returns in cofiee, hides, sugars, &c., and when bills are wanted, they are always negotiated on European houses." The inconvenience which would have resulted in the United States, from the establishment of the small money unit, pro- posed by Robert Morris, the financier, is practically illustrated at Rio. A dollar at par contains one thousand parts, called <* reis," and hence the dollar is termed a " mil rei." A trifling accompt, to persons unacquainted with the currency, is an alarming document ; the gross amount of a bill for ten dollars is represented by five figures. This makes calculation tedious, and to strangers embarrassing. Americans require their bills reduced to dollars, and Englishmen must have them in pounds, shillings, and pence, before they understand them. 46 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. The following is a specimen of a Brazilian accompt, render- ed by the English-speaking clerk. Rio Janeiro. Dec: 1833. To Louzada & Ca. 2 Duz'ns Port wine - 8,000 rs. 16,000 rs 1 Barel Mackrels - . 10,000 " 3 Duz'ns Claret - - 15,000 " 50 lb. Indian meal - - 5,000 " 5 " Nutmegs - - 1,600 " 46^ <' Ham - 280 rs. 13,020 " 5 Duz'ns Fowls - 7,500 '< 37,500 " 500 Onons - 1,800 ^' 9,000 " 5 lb. Asspice - - 1,600 " 23 Duz'ns Eggs - 360 " 8,280 " 68 lb. Butter - 320 " 21,760 " Vegetables Total, 13,000 «« 151,760 rs "Dollars at 1,280 reis, makes gll8^*^." CHAPTER V. The Botanic Garden — A Peep at Court. Early one morning we seated ourselves in a " calega," and set oflf to visit the Botanic Garden. The <' calega" is a kind of gig or chaise, which has the body hung in advance of the axle, and betwixt a pair of huge, clumsy wheels, made gaudy with paint and gilt, not however in the best taste. A leather curtain in front serves to screen ladies from admiration, and gentle- men from dust, when they do not care for the scenery through Notices op brazil. 47 which they ride. To this vehicle two mules are harnessed abreast ; one in the shafts,, and the other on the outside, to bear the "talegero/' in his grotesque livery and big boots. Though a hackman, he wears a uniform, which is sometimes a green coatee with red trimmings and white steel buttons ; at others, a blue coatee with yellow collar and cuffs. Armed with a heavily loaded whip, he bestrides his little saddle, and lashes and spurs the mules from the start. In spite of appearances, however, our calega proved to be a very commodious and easy- going carriage, and whirled us along at the rate of five pr six miles the hour. We rolled through several streets, and emerged from the city upon the Praya do Flamingo, whence we had a fine view of the harbor and shipping. Our carriage was soon passing a handsome chateau, which was shut, and apparently uninhabit- ed. This was one of the ex-emperor's retreats. Next we came in sight of the peaceful waters of Botafogo, shut in and almost land-locked by high and irregular hills, whose shadows were trembling on the surface of the bay, now glittering in the ftrst beams of the rising sun. The whole shore is studded with houses and gardens ; and the morning air came perfumed with flowers, and conveyed delight in every breath. - '• Not all the charms, that ethnic fancy gave To blessed arbours o'er the western wave. Could wake a dream more soothing or sublime. Of bowers ethereal and the spirit's clime !" At the head of the bay we turned to the right. The country, was beautifully picturesque. About four miles from town the road lies between a lake, which is separated from the ocean by a narrow strip of land, at one place so low that the sea not un- frequently finds its way over it, and the irregular hills which terminate in the almost overhanging Corcovado. Tiny rills gush from the sides of the mountain, and leap in miniature cas^ cades down its side, fertilizing the ground over which they pass. From this spot we saw a large square mountain, which is considered an excellent land mark in making the harbor of Rio ; from its supposed resemblance to a ship's topsail, it is 48 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. called "la gavia." At this spot, a redoubt of stone, mounting four guns, effectually protects the southern part of this route to the city. About two miles, or perhaps less, beyond the lake, is the Botanic Garden ; one of the spots usually visited by travel- lers, and which will alw^ays pay them for their pains. When our caleca halted before the iron gate, it was opened by a ne- gro, who afterwards became our guide, and pointed out the most interesting parts of the garden. The Botanic Garden was established by Dom Leandro do Sacramento. It covers a surface of about four acres, laid out in alleys and beds, which are kept in fine order. It contains a large number of exotics, and a great deal of the tea plant, which was introduced to ascertain whether this climate was suitable for its culture. So desirous was the emperor of naturalizing it, that he imported a Chinese, with his family, to attend solely to the cultivation of this plant. Thus far it promises well, and in time may become of importance to the country. This gar- den produced, (I think, in 1830,) forty "arrobas" (32 lb.); in San Pablo, El Senhor Dom Jose Arouche de Toledo Ren- don gathers annually from eighteen to twenty '' arrobas ;" in the province of Las Minas are gathered about twenty arrobas; besides other places of which we have no account. In 1826, shoots were sent to Maraiian, but perished from the dryness of the season. In different places are turf seats, and benches shaded by trees and surrounded by every variety of flowers. Within a short distance of each other, are growing, arrow-root, sago, carda- mom, cinnamon, cloves, and the bread-fruit tree weighed down with its own production. Nature and art have produced wonders here ! While we rested in the shade of the beautiful Jacca tree, the song of birds, and the odors of spices and flowers, fell soothingly upon the senses. The only plant of which we were not permitted to break twigs, is a small bush about four feet high, termed the national tree, because each leaf contains a mixture of yellow and green — the colors of the Brazilian flag. Even of this, however, we were indulged with a few leaves. We returned to the city at eleven o'clock, in time to dress NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 49 to visit the Court, which held a levee in honor of the anniver- sary of the independence of Brazil from the throne of Portu- gal. * At half past twelve the American Legation reached the side entrance of the palace, and alighting from the calecas, made way through the gate to the stair. As we ascended, I learned from one of our party, that wearing gloves or hats in the im- perial presence was equally contrary to etiquette. I had been instructed in the part which I was to enact in the pageant At the head of the stairs, and entrance of the saloon, stood an hal- berdier, dressed in a harlequin suit of green, checkered with yellow stripes half an inch v/ide. In the first room, which was handsomely furnished, were several gentlemen of the foreign corps diplomatique, and among them a Nuncio from the Pope. Of course all were in their court dresses. From this, we passed into a larger room, fitted up in a much more elegant manner. Both were hung with portraits, and paintings illus- trative of Brazilian history, which seemed to be the topic of conversation with several foreign ministers, who were wait- ing for the opening of the Court. The subject of one of these pictures, is a story which I presume every good Portu- guese and Brazilian ought to believe. It runs, that some time in the beginning of the twelfth century, the Moors and Portu- guese were at war ; the forces of the two nations were very unequal ; the Moors counted three hundred thousand warriors, while the Christian army scarcely numbered thirteen thousand fighting men. Notwithstanding this great disparity of force, Alphonso, the Portuguese general, resolved to give battle, though to all the issue seemed not to be doubtful. He ha- rangued his troops, and exhorted them to conquer or die, rather than yield to the infidel. Having increased their confi- dence by his eloquence, he announced the following day to be fixed for the conflict, and that Heaven would manifest some extraordinary sign as a harbinger of victory ! He retired to his tent, and read, in the Bible, the history of Gideon, which he looked upon as similar to his own. While tJ*i-: * September 6th. 50 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. asleep, he dreamed that a venerable sage appeared and promis- ed him the victory ! This vision had scarcely passed away, when an officer informed him that a strange old man had en- tered the camp, and v,ras extremel)"^ importunate to be admitted to his presence. Alphonso ordered the stranger to be conduct- ed into the tent ; when he entered, the general recognised in him the person he had seen in his dream. Without waiting for interrogation, the old man stated that he was a fisherman, and had been doing penance for sixty years on a neighboring moun- tain ; — that he had now come, by command of God, to announce victory to the arms of Portugal ; adding, "when you hear a clock strike, go forth from your tent ; you will behold a bright manifestation of what Heaven is doing for you !" and immedi- ately departed, leaving Alphonso filled with mingled joy and surprise. Some time after day break, hearing a clock strike, he hastily armed himself, and sallied from the tent. In the midst of a flaming cloud he beheld a group of angels supporting a crucifix ! A clear voice announced the victory, and that the soldiers would proclaim Alphonso king ; the voice required that he should accept and wear the crown ; prophesying that he would henceforward glorify God, and carry his religion to the most distant climates in the world ! Alphonso prostrated himself, and declared that he would obey the commands thus emanating from Heaven ; and begged, in case his people should ever offend, that he might suffer chastisement in their stead. The vision vanished, and the victory was gained over Ismael ! The story of the painting was just concluded, when the right hand door opened, and the ladies and gentlemen of the Brazil- ian Household entered. Dom Pedro H. was accompanied by his sisters and the regency. The dresses of the members of the court were splendid ; that of the young emperor was neat and simple. As they passed through the rooms, every head was bowed in salutation. Presently a flourish of trumpets, followed by a grand march by a full band, proclaimed the opening of the Court. We had all followed into the anteroom. In a few mo- ments the chamberlain informed the corps diplomatique that his Imperial Highness was ready to receive them. Those who had resided longest near this court, took precedence, and fol- NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 51 lowed the chamberlain through the left hand door. The Ame- rican Legation was last. Our Charge preceded, and the officers followed according to rank, at about three yards from each other. On entering the presence, we all bowed ; and again, when half way up to the dais, and repeated the reverence im- mediately before his Highness. Then retreating, with our faces towards the throne, and making three bows, we made our exit through the right hand door. This movement in a large room, is far from being graceful ; and from the impediment experi- enced by the clergy, in consequence of wearing long robes, they have been excused from this retrograde step. We halted in the room where the chamberlain had met us, to observe those who were still entering to pay their court to the infant emperor. The throne room was richly hung with green velvet, sprink- led with gold and silver stars, and the floor was covered with a bright colored carpet, with a centre medallion figure. Dom Pedro II., who bears a striking resemblance to his father, stood upon the dais — an elevation of one step, on which the throne is usually placed — with the regency on his right, and his two younger sisters on his left hand. His large, liquid eyes, wandered from one person to another with an expression of half indifference. His salutations were stiff, and the princesses, who are his seniors* (he is not six years old), seemed to suffer a kind of mauvaise honte. Ladies and lords, and officers bear- ing their respective insignia, stood along the walls on either hand. Many of the courtiers were arrayed in rich suits of vel- vet of antiquated fashion, and wore those decorations of honor which it may have pleased royalty to bestow upon them. The crowd soon began to move out of the palace towards their carriages. The music continued ; conversation was gay ; every body wore a holy-day face, and self approbation might be read in every countenance ! * The late empress left five children. Dona Maria de Gloria, Queen of Portugal, born April 4th, 1819. Dona Januaria, .... « March 11th, 1821. Dona Paulina Mariana, - - - " February 17th, 1823. Dona Francisca Carolina, ... «« August 2d, 1824. Dom Pedro d' Alcantara, (now Dom Pedro H. ) «* December 2d, 1825. 52 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. CHAPTER VI. A walk — A ride — A dinner party. On Sunday morning I strolled about the city with a friend. Towards point Gl&ria, and. in front of a large building once oc- cupied as a royal residence, is a garden, or rather park. Large trees of many varieties, amongst which are mangoes and aca- cias, shade the alleys and walks which lead through parterres and beds of flowers. I visited this place frequently, because I thought it a promenade for ladies, but I have found that no- body resorts there, save a few old men and priests. After viewing the bay from the wall, which is washed by the waves, and examining a bronze fountain which is now dry, we walked to where the aqueduct, elevated on arches, passes into the city. Near it was a crowd of negroes of both sexes, standing half leg deep, washing. The lower limbs were bare to the hips, and their dress tucked up in such a manner as to give it the appear- ance of a pair of short breeches. The clothes were spread about on the banks of this drain for the benefit of the sun. Pieces of wardrobe were undergoing the lavatory process by being beaten with good will between two stones — an excellent test of the strength of the fabric, and which saves the hands quite as well as our best constructed washing machines. The operators were very gay. Their chattering seemed ceaseless; yet its monotony was relieved occasionally by little bickerings and contentions, which arose from slight encroachments, made by one or another on what was conceived to be, by priority of possession, the spot or pounding stone of some one indivi- dual. These advantages of location are not unimportant ; the water is much clearer and in greater abundance in some places than in others. These disputes sometimes led to blows, and then some worthy master's linen was applied very unceremo- niously about the ears of the contending parties. The wenches generally came off victorious, much to the amusement of the NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 53 crowd, who displayed their approbation and white teeth much to the annoyance and irritation of the discomfited black, who was sometimes forced to move higher up the stream. This scene also affords amusement to the neighbors, if we may judge from the number of females, peeping and laughing from the windows of the surrounding houses. On our return to the Praga de San Jos6 we met Brunner, who insisted upon our dining with him at his country resi- dence. In a very few minutes our party had increased so much, that several calegas* were necessary to carry us. I was seated with my friend, and we set off at a fine trot ; as soon as we got out of the city, the ride became so pleasant that I would have willingly prolonged it. Chateaus and plantations lined the road on both sides. An air of luxury and tranquillity per- vaded most of them ; but the retreats of Englishmen could be distinguished, by the great comfort and neatness that charac- terize their dwellings in every part of the world, from those belonging either to Brazilian or Portuguese gentlemen. The air was perfumed with flowers and fruits, contrasting most de- lightfully with that in the confined streets of Rio. An hour's drive brought us to a lane running through a cof- fee plantation, and terminating at the door of Dom Bento Tro- vato's house. Our reception was cordial, and we were soon conversing in Spanish or in French with the daughters of our worthy host. His son carried us over the magnificent dwell- ing, which is not yet entirely finished. The rooms are spa- cious, and adapted to the climate. The furniture is of beautiful rose wood, and most of it has been made on the spot. A gar- den of flowers has been commenced, and a labyrinth formed in it afforded amusement to some of the party, who found them- selves entangled in the mazes of its many winding paths. Thousands of pounds of coffee are gathered annually on this plantation. On an average, each tree yields about a pound, but some will yield, when taken great care of, three, four, and even five pounds, but that is not usual. All that is required in its cultivation is, occasionally to loosen the earth about the * Each calega acconunodates but two persons. 54 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. trees; the greatest labor is in gathering and drying it, and without slaves this business would be unproductive. The cof- fee is gathered, the pod taken off — each one contains two grains — and spread out to dry in a yard with a tile floor; its quality then depends very much upon the care taken in turning it. A great deal of the coffee consumed in the United States is from this place, and it is only the first quality which will sell there. The second quality is sent to Europe, where, in many places, it is parched or roasted and ground before it is sold. Though not a tree is cultivated beyond a hundred miles from Rio, the whole world might be supplied with coffee from this port alone. The coffee tree came originally from upper Ethiopia, where it has been known from time immemorial, and is still culti- vated with success. It is supposed very generally that a Mo- lacho, a kind of priest, named "Chadely," was the first Arab who made use of coffee ; and he was led to it, to free himself from a continual somnolence which interrupted his nocturnal devotions and prayers. The Derves and religious mussulmen imitated him, and the "Legistas" followed their example. From the coasts of the Red Sea, its use passed, by means of travellers, to Medina and Mecca, and all the Mahometan coun- tries. Public coffee houses were established in Persia under the regulation of the government, and became the fashionable resort for the idle to lounge, and the busy to rest ; politicians to talk of news; poets to recite their verses, and the "Mola- chos" to dispute. In Constantinople the introduction of coffee caused a great sensation. The caffes were crowded, and the mosques were deserted ; therefore the mufti declared coffee to be comprehended within the law of Mahomet, which forbids the use of strong liquors, and in consequence, the Porte shut up the coffee house doors. In 1652, a merchant named <' Edward," on his return from the Levant, introduced coffee into London. The English were pleased with it ; and since that time its use has been adopted over all Europe and America ; but to a moderate extent com- pared with countries where the use of wines is prohibited. In Arabia the rich only partake of it, while the poor make NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 55 an infusion from the shell of this precious berry. It is said to be clear, not so bitter nor so strong as coffee. Betalfagui, a city of Yemen, is its great mart in Arabia. It is exported from Mecca.* Before dinner the time was passed in conversation and list- ening to music ; several pieces, of which Dom Pedro I. is the composer, and which speak well for his taste, were played. He is passionately fond of music, and there are very few in- struments which he does not play well. The opera company, or rather the musicians, were not unfrequently brought to San Christovao to accompany the emperor in his concerts, or to play his compositions. Mrs. Brunner was fond of speaking of the empress Leopoldina, with whom she was intimately ac- quainted, and described her as a sociable and amiable woman ; she attributes her death to Dom Pedro's brutality. The pre- sent ex-empress was also highly spoken of, but not with the same devotional feeling as the former. She is much beloved by the emperor, and is said to exercise very great influence over him ; yet he spoke to her once so harshly at table, on board of H. B. M, Ship Warspite, that she retired in tears. He is extremely timid at sea; on their passage to England on board of H. B. M. Ship Volage,'lie asked her whether she was not afraid; "Why should I be," she replied, "while I see the captain is not?" Dom Pedro is said to possess a considerable share of good nature, and the following anecdote seems to bear evidence of it. A midshipman H of the United States Navy, some four or five years since, followed a man who deserted from his boat, into the palace, where the sailor had fled, in hopes of eluding pursuit. Mr. H rushed by the sentinel, and by mistake, got into the audience room. The noise occasioned by his abrupt entry, led the emperor to inquire the cause ; and when informed that it was a young naval officer, ordered him to his presence. The midshipman told the emperor that he had entered the palace in pursuit of a deserter, and would not leave * See Establecimientos Ultramarinos por Edwardo Malo de Luque. Tomo segundo. Madrid. 1785. 56 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. it till he should find him. Dom Pedro was pleased by his re- solute manner, and extended his hand to be kissed. The mid- dy, however, did not so understand him, but gave it a hearty shake, and requested the emperor to allow the deserter to be sought and delivered up. The sailor was taken, and Mr. H left the palace. A few days afterwards, the emperor, when driving four-in- hand, met Mr. H . He drew up the horses, and extended his hand, which Mr. H shook very cordially, and told his Highness that he was extremely happy to see him. The emperor frequently related the anecdote, and styled Mr. H his ''young American friend." We sat down to dinner at three o'clock. The party was large. There was an officer there, belonging to one of the men-of-war in the bay, who particularly interested me. He was a fat, stout man, with a plump Falstaff rotundity of per- son, and a red face. His forehead was remarkably high, rising like a pyramid above his blonde eyebrows ; but it was narrow, and his whole head bore no slight resemblance to a truncated sugar loaf. It has shaken my faith in the doctrine of phrenolo- gy ! His aquiline nose was placed like a peeping post between two large, prominent eyes, which, like jealous neighbors, ex- ercised a constant surveillance over each others views. This gentleman was evidently a gourmand, and so fond of eating, that he seldom spoke, unless for the purpose of recommending some particular sauce, or good dish before him. To say that he was " the man who eat up all the pudding," would be no libel. He sat next to me. After devouring a portion of a very fine fish, he commenced cleaning his plate, with his bread, of the compound sauces he had poured upon it, and spoke for the first time during the whole day. "Elegant fish. Sir! beautiful soy !" then turning his head to one side, and leaning over the table, filled his mouth with a piece of bread, dripping with oil and fish sauce. He could not speak ; but laying his hand on a decanter, nodded to me and filled his glass. The draught was swallowed with more gout than I had before seen — " delicious Port." The fish, which my taciturn friend so justly praised, was NOTICES or BRAZIL. 57 large, and resembled the sheep's-head in form, but very supe- rior to it in flavor. It is much esteemed at Rio, and is rather rare. The great price given for it is an evidence of the high estimation in which it is held. Brunner told me that fifteen or twenty dollars have been paid for one weighing as many pounds. Fish of every kind pay a tithe to government for the support of hospitals. Opposite to my officer was seated a fine looking English gentleman, whose shirt bosom was deeply embroidered, and closed with most aristocratic diamond buttons; besides, he wore beautiful cambric ruffles, and a diamond ring on his little finger. This was an Attach^ to Legation. You could easily perceive that he was a distinguished man, for he seldom used his fork, but scooped up the morsels with a piece of bread. With the ladies he was an oracle, but not so deeply venerated by my friend Brunner, and I discovered that Dom Bento, once or twice, attempted a joke at his expense. Some one remarked, during dinner, that he had been a month at Rio, and had not yet seen a lady in the street. " That is certainly a very strange fact," said the Attache, *'but, I presume, it is entirely owing to the jealoua nature of Brazilian husbands !" " Not so," replied a gentleman of a very serious and sarcas- tic manner; "there is a better reason; they are unwilling to brave the sight of naked negroes, like the English and French ladies here, and shrink from many things that are brought be- fore us in the streets." "But you will not admit this, Mr. L ," said Dom Bento. " Not he," continued the sarcastic gentlemanj ** because he knows very well that there is no jealousy in England, nor vir- tuous, nor chaste, nor modest women, any where else!" " I beg your pardon, gentlemen ; though I do not say sweep- ingly that there is not a virtuous woman in France or Brgizil, yet I think you will agree with me, that, in a given number, there is a greater proportion of truly virtuous females in Great Britain, than in any other country in the world ; at any rate, they are more sociable, and certainly better educated. " 8 58 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. " What do you think of his lordship's mutton, Mr. L ?" asked Dom Bento. My officer broke in ; "I agree with Mr. L , this is most exquisite mutton, and the capers sauce is luscious !" " I was not thinking of his lordship's mutton ; but, preju- dice aside, it is universally conceded, that there is no mutton in the world like the English." "No one disputes that the mutton is good in England, but that it is better than any other, I doubt," said the sarcastic gentleman ; " you will say the same of the beef, and I assure you, I have eaten better beef, and better mutton too, both in Peru and Montevideo, than I ever did in England !" The Attache was not easily disconcerted, for when Dom Bento said — I must confess somewhat maliciously — " the mut- ton you are now eating and praising, is Brazilian, and reared upon my own estate," the great man quickly replied, " I dare swear it is of English breed !" This conversation, or rather dialogue, was carried on in English. The ladies were speaking Spanish. " How is it," asked Mrs. Brunner, " that not a North Ame- rican — not a single one, of the many who have been in Brazil, has ever married a lady of the country ? Foreigners from every other part of the world have found wives here !" "Oh!" said an old bachelor, "the ladies are too unsocial and formal for them ; only think, it requires, I am told, six years to become acquainted, and besides, you are all such stub- born Catholics, that, to gain your hands, a man must forswear his religion !" <'I will contradict that," said Brunner. "So you may," replied the bachelor, ^^ exceptio probat regulam.^^ The fact is, that North Americans — much as they are given to wandering — possess a greater love of country than any other adventurers who seek their fortunes abroad. I say adventurers, because no man will leave his own fire side, un- less it be with a hope of better fortune, and an easier life in another clime ; except travellers from curiosity. After the ladies retired, several songs were sung, and the Attach^ did me the honor to ask me to take wine with him ; NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 59 when the glasses were filled, he said, in a most gracious tone, smiling and bowing at the same time, "Will you say some- thing, or shall I ?" *' You, if you please, Sir!" " Then, the President of the United States !" We joined the ladies at an eai'ly hour, and spent the after- noon agreeably, in dancing, music, and conversation. The <* Miudinho," the music of which is the composition of Dom Pedro, and <* a nine handed reel," were exhibited to us as the dances of the country. They are both animated and amus- ing- After tea, and a pleasant drive by moonfight, we arrived ia town about nine o'clock. Foreigners generally tell us that the natives of Rio are cold and inhospitable; it must be granted, on one hand, that the Brazilians are somewhat formal, and require gentlemen to be properly introduced ; and on the other, foreigners visit the city without letters to any of the natives, and few of them speak the language ! Under such circumstances, how can they know each other? I am told by those who have long resided here, that the la- dies are amiable and kind ; and in the higher circles, elegant and polished in their manners. They are deficient in the essen- tials of a polite education, but are accomplished musicians and dancers. Their style of beauty would not please us. They are generally very dark brunettes, have fine black eyes, and hair, and are rather beyond embonpoint — in fact, the whole population appears to be disposed to grossness and obesity. As in all tropical climates, the ladies are marriageable at a very early age — they are not unfrequently mothers at twelve and fourteen years old ! 60 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. CHAPTER VII. Architecture — Cries — Market — Churches — Cemetery of San Francisco de Paula — Funerals — Climate — Prison — Slave market — Library — Newspapers. This city offers much to interest and much to disgust the traveller. The construction of the houses is suited to the mild- ness of the climate, which is never cold enough to require the dwellings to be warmed artificially. The consequent absence of chimneys rising above the roofs as in our northern cities, impresses us at first with the belief that there is a feature want- ing, and which is not at first discovered. The houses are gene- rally two stories high, rough cast or whitewashed. The win- dows of the second story extend from the floor, and open upon iron verandas, in which it is common in the afternoon to see gentlemen enjoying the cigar. The red tile roofs, with their eaves projecting and terminating in points, make the houses and the landscape around Rio resemble the sketches we see upon crockery. In the interior of the houses, wooden ceiling is generally substituted for plaster; and it is usual for all the apartments of the same floor to communicate above the parti- tions, which do not extend entirely to the top or cornice of the room. This allows a free circulation of air, which is so essen- tial to comfort and health in tropical climates. The lower floor is occupied as a coach house and stables, and visitors cannot reach the family without passing the family coach, which is kept in fine order. This custom takes its origin from the fond- ness of show which is innate with the Portuguese and Spa- niards. The entrance door is properly a large gate, which is constantly watched by a black slave in livery, who manages to keep awake by sliding his thumbs over a " marimba." In the lower windows, close trellis shutters, hung from above hori- zontally, answer all the purpose of glass. The streets are narrow, always dirty, and intersect each other nearly at right angles. In their centres, run small NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 61 streams of water, which are usually the vehicles of filth ; and when it rains, which it does, and very heavily, during a con- siderable part of the year, the whole street is overflowed. The side walks are very narrow, and the dress of foot passengers is always in danger of being soiled by the splashing of horses and carriages. The me* of the town are indescribable ; the ears are assailed with the shrill and discordant voices of women slaves vending fruits and sweetmeats ; and of the water carriers crying ' agua,' which they carry about on their heads in large wooden kegs, filled at the different fountains ; each one is worth about six cents. The market place is a filthy collection of booths, generally surrounded with mud, under which is sold a variety of vege- tables and fruits. The yam supplies the place of the potato. The oranges are amongst the finest in the world, and are sold at from ten to twenty-five cents the hundred. Butcher's meats are sold in shops which may be scented from afar, proclaiming the state in which they are kept. It is customary to require the purchaser, after selecting what he wishes, to take also a piece of an animal that may have been killed three or four days ; and if he refuse, the butcher most obstinately withholds the chosen morsel. The beef is tender, but entirely destitute of fat, and would be much better if more care and cleanliness were bestowed in the butchery. The pork is very good ; but the mutton is bad, and extravagantly dear. The poultry is in- different, and far from being cheap. The fish market is a very good one, generally well supplied ; oysters are found in the bay, but they are not much esteemed. I am told, there is a market for monkeys and parrots, but I did not visit it. There are in this city thirty-nine churches ; some of which are splendidly and fancifully ornamented. That of San Fran- cisco de Paula is a very large one. The naves are spacious, and the chapels are well furnished with wax candles, crucifixes, paintings, and images of saints. The whole interior of the church is decorated with pillars and heavy carving. But little light enters through the painted panes, and that seems to dim the blaze of the tall candles. The whole inspires a religious 62 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC awe, well calculated to influence the mind of the uneducated, who readily yield to appearances which they do not compre- hend. I visited this church on All Saints' Eve. It was filled with worshippers kneeling on pieces of carpet and mats, counting their beads in silence for the rest of the departed. The silence Was interrupted, ever and anon, by the bursting of rockets sent from the church steps and belfry, accompanied by a short peal of bells. I threaded my way through the kneeling crowd, to a side door which leads to the cemetery of the church. It is an open court, surrounded by a corridor, supported by wooden pillars. I descended the short stair to the temple of death, called the " Catacumbas;" by the faint glimmer of the lamps, and the soft light of the starry heaven, I saw a number of slaves busied in decorating the sepulchres of their late masters. Crim- son satin and black velvet canopies, trimmed with broad gold and silver lace and spangles, were tastefully arranged over the vases containing the ashes of the dead. Around the enclosure, forming in fact the walls, are tiers of holes, each one of which is just large enough to contain a human body. The corpse, with its coffin, is deposited in one of these holes, where it remains for two years, and at the expiration of that time is re- moved ; the bones are burned, and the ashes inurned for preser- vation. Some of these urns are very beautiful, being ornament- ed, and bearing the appropriate epitaphs and inscriptions in gilt letters. Funerals are conducted here with as great pomp as the circumstances of the deceased will allow. It is very com- mon to hire coffins for the occasion, and they are always large enough to receive within them a rough box enclosing the corpse. Funerals always take place at night, and the dead body is left in the church till the ensuing day, when the rough coffin is sealed up in the hole, and the gay one is returned to the undertaker, to figure on another occasion. The police of Rio is military ; walk where you may, soldiers and barracks are met with. The low situation of this city, and the filthy state of its streets, rendered it formerly very unhealthy ; the slave trade was the means of introducing contagious diseases, which spread Ihem- NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 63 selves amongst the people. In a great measure, however, these evils have disappeared, owing to the establishment of a more efficient police, and the abolition of the importation of slaves from Africa. The climate is eternal spring, summer, and au- tumn blended together, for the fruit trees are budding and yielding their fruits at the same time ; and while one tree is just putting forth its modest blossoms, another, only a few feet from it, is bending under the weight of its produce. Seeds thrown into the ground, spring into a plant, and yield a crop, with but little care. The other day I passed by the "Cargalada" or prison. From it proceeded a most offensive smell, arising most probably from the crowding together so many persons, and neglecting to re- move the filth that must be continually accumulating. At the grated windows appeared a number of the prisoners, calling out to the passers by to give them alms, or to purchase the horn combs, and cups and toys which they held up in their hands. In the street, three or four prisoners were chained by the neck to the wall, begging ; they were "pedindo justiga" — asking justice. One of them was a mulatto, who informed me, that an opportunity was thus afforded to those who were without money, to obtain means to pay for their trial, and fee their lawyers. He was charged with an assault, and had been put in the street with others to beg, as the prison does not afford rations before trial.* In the second story were several well dressed men, seated in the verandas, smoking. They were confined for debt. A little beyond the prison, I questioned a Portuguese, who was standing at his door, and, as is usually the case, he readily gave me what information I asked. He told me that the prison contained at this time six hundred and twenty-seven persons. I am happy to state, that I sought in vain for the slave mar- ket which I visited in 1826. By the common consent of the Christian world, the traffic in slaves has ceased ; yet I am told * " On dolt ajouter que le gouvemment ne se charge point de la d^pense des prisonniers, et qu'il laisse ^ la pitii des habitants le soin de les nourier." Dennig, — JBtstoire du Briail, 64 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. that some have been imported, clandestinely, since 1830. At the time I visited this market, 1 saw the poor slaves, seated on benches, thirty or forty together, and entirely naked, except the loins, which were covered by a fold of blue cotton cloth. Many of them were suffering from the small pox, or just con- valescing. While I was looking into one of these stalls of hu- man life, a lady, attended by two servants, entered, and gazing round at the group, fixed her eye upon one, and after survey- ing him well, as a practiced jockey does a horse, she inquired the price. The merchant ordered the individual indicated to get up, and then put him through several exercises, to show that his motions were perfect. All this took place with the same indifference, or more, than is evinced generally in a bar- gain for a pair of gloves. In the rear of the imperial chapel there is a public library, containing fifty thousand volumes, open to the public every day. The librarian is very urbane, and scrupulously attentive to propriety, even in the dress of the visiters. I visited it one day, when the thermometer was standing at 90° F., in com- pany with a gentleman who wore a white jacket, after the fa- shion of the place ; the librarian very politely told him that it was against the rules of the institution for gentlemen to appear there in such a costume, and begged him therefore to with- draw ! The general taste for reading in any country, may be esti- mated by the number and kind of various periodicals published in it.* In Rio Janeiro there are several daily and bi-weekly newspapers printed, the largest of which is the *' Jornal do CoMMERCio,'^ and that is of half the size of the " National • A valuable publication, like "Waldie's Library," a work which is doing so much in the United States to diffuse a taste for reading, and consequently for the diffusion of knowledge (the demand for which speaks well for the good taste of our countrymen), would not be patronised in any State of South Ame- rica ; simply for the reason that a taste for literature is not general. A volume of " Waldie," always delightful on land, is a desideratum at sea, from its com- pact and portable form. Passengers in merchant ships, who find complete sets on board, may deem themselves fortunate ? the libraries of United States ves- sels should never be without them. NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 95 Intelligencer," published at Washington, D. C. The others are the <<0 Indigena do Brazil," and "0 Iman. Jornal Caramuru," and some others, of the size of half a sheet of foolscap paper. They are occupied with items of foreign news, imperial decrees, personal attacks, and advertisements of run- away slaves. Some of these are curious. " Roga-se ao Sr. Jodo Carlos Bouvier de chega h rua Di- reitUf N. 34, d, respeito de humnegocio que ndo ignora, isto no praso de trez dias dapublicagdo deste, alids d natureza de negocio sord publicada.^' " Mr. Joao Carlos Bouvier, is requested to call at No. 34, rua Direita, relative to an affair of which he is not ignorant ; if he do not in three days from this, the nature of the affair will be published." Another. — ^^Roga-se ao Sr. Cirurgido tdntonio Francisco Pereira da Fonceca, haja de mandar b, rua de S. Jos^, N. 122, pagar 4\\l20rs. que deve ha mais de dous annos.^^ << Mr. C A F Pereira da Fonceca is requested to send to No. \22, rua de S. Jose, and pay 4l|130 rs., which he has owed more than two years !" — An unpleasant dun ! CHAPTER VIII. Geography of Brazil— Products — Diamond Mines. The empire of Brazil is the most extensive of the several countries of South America. Nature has marked tihe boundary on the north by the river Maranon ; on the south is the Re- public of Montevideo, formerly the Banda Oriental ; on the west, the mountains of Matto-Grosso separate it from Peru } and on the east, its shores are washed by the Atlantic. The whole country is watered by large streams, which afford a water communication in almost every direction ; and by the 9 6B THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC addition of a few canals, the inhabitants of the more remote sections would be enabled to send their produce to the chief markets on the coast- In a few years, the Maranon will become a great highway of commerce, by steam navigation, from .the interior of Peru, and even from the shores of the Pacific ocean ; then a large portion of trade, now conducted by the route of Cape Horn, will be directed into this new channel. The country is divided into provinces, or captaincies. Along the coast are Guyana, Para, Maranham, Piauhy, Siara, Rio- Grande-do-Norte, Parahyba ; Pernambuco, which includes Alagoas ; Seregipe-d'el-Rey, Bahia, Ilheos, Porto-Seguro, Es- pirito-Santo, Rio-de-Janeiro, San-Paulo, Santa-Catharina (an island near the coast), and Rio-Grande-do-Sul. The interior is included in three great divisions ; Minas-Geraes, Goias, and Matto-Grosso, which are subdivided into comarcas, or depart- ments. These provinces are but imperfectly known ; they abound in mines of gold, silver, and other metals, and precious stones, among which the diamond and topaz are conspicuous. The vegetable productions of this vast empire are as abun- dant and valuable as those of any other in the world j not only in medicinal plants, fruits, and dye woods, but in timber suit- able for all the purposes of marine architecture. * Rio de Janeiro, or St. Sebastians, is advantageously situated for an extensive commerce. The bay is one of the most safe and capacious in the world, affording every facility for water- ing vessels, and refreshing their crews, after long voyages. It is a rendezvous for men-of-war, and a stopping place for merchant-men of all nations trading to the Pacific. Like all the colonies in the New World, Brazil was much restrained in her commerce by the mother country ; but since the immigration of the court to Rio de Janeiro, in 1807, the old restrictions have been removed. About 1810, a treaty was made with England, by which all the ports of Brazil were opened to British vessels and produce, on paying fifteen per cent, on a valuation made by their own consuls. This treaty * A line-of-battle sliip and a frigate, built at Bahia, were launched and sent to Rio Janeiro in 1833. NOTICES OP BRAZIL. 67 expired in 1825. The produce of all other nations, imported into Brazil, pays a duty of twenty-four per cent, on a valuation made by the custom-house ot the country. Thus a very con- siderable advantage was secured to the English ; the French complained (and do still) of the high estimates made of their goods, which frequently paid a hundred per cent, thus de- stroying any profit that might have accrued in their trade. Previous to the royal immigration, commerce was much in- jured by exclusive privileges, granted to certain companies. Salt, for example, was a monopoly which bore heavily upon trade, being indispensable in the preservation of hides, and salt- ed and jerked beef, which were sent from the interior under the name of " carnas do sertaon." The laboring classes in nearly every part of South America live almost exclusively upon jerked beef, which is prepared by cutting the meat into rib- bon-like pieces and drying them in the sun, with a small addi- tion of salt, or by steeping them in a strong pickle for twenty- four hours. The heat of the climate precludes the salting of beef in large pieces or joints. The province of Rio-Grande-do-Sul, which enjoys a most temperate climate, produces a great number of hides, and quan- tities of the " carnas do sertaon," or meats from the interior, sufficient for home consumption, and even for exportation ; of these " carnas" the black population consume great quantities — in fact, it is the only animal food they eat. The province of St. Paul, celebrated for the courage of its inhabitants and the numerous exploring expeditions which have sallied from it for the interior, yields wheat, rye, maize or Indian corn, manioc, and potato ; and lately the vine begins to flourish in its genial climate. The Palma Christi grows in such abundance, that castor oil is burned in lamps, instead of spermaceti. Coarse cottons are exported j their manufacture .promises to improve. Saint Catherine, an island on the coast, near the tropic, yields ■coffee and rice of a superior quality ; and Mr. Langsdorf states* 4:hat indigo, pepper, vanilla, balsam copaiba, and several other * Voyage a I'ile Sainte Catherine^ 68 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. similar articles can be gi'own without much labor or attention. Lately very good cheese has been made and exported to the main. The forests of St. Catherine produce several excellent species of wood. Rio Janeiro, besides possessing a fertile soil, remarkably well adapted to the cultivation of coffee, which is rapidly in- creasing, is the focus of industry and trade, from which im- provements of all kinds spread in every direction over Brazil. The flourishing state of the spice trees in the botanic garden near the city, promises that their cultivation may be extended in the province, and if not sufficiently productive for exporta- tion, will at least supply the demand for home consumption. Minas-Geraes, besides the major part of the productions common to the southern provinces of Spain and Portugal, yields gold, diamonds, and precious stones. Wheat and Indian corn grow in plenty, and large quantities of nitre are obtained from the mines of Monte Rorigo. Matto-Grosso and Goias are but thinly populated. They are inhabited by several tribes of unsubdued Indians. The soil is covered with rich pasturage, forests, and several useful plants which are common to Peru. In the provinces of Espirito-Santo and Porto-Seguro, are found several kinds of wood suited to cabinet work and archi- tecture. The Ibirapitanga (Brazil wood), now so necessary in manufactures, and which is beginning to fail in Pernambuco, is met with here. Ilheos and its adjacent territories furnish manioc, and the cacao tree, though its cultivation is not extensive. The soil of Bahia is well adapted to the growth of sugar- cane; the manufacture of which is daily improving. Tobacco also flourishes in this province, and affords very considerable profits. At St. Salvador (Bahia), as well as at Rio Janeiro, several mechanic arts are exercised with a degree of perfection which would not disgrace European workmen. In Pernambuco and its vicinity is grown some of the finest cotton in South America. The Brazil wood thrives better here than in any other part of the empire ; very little attention is paid however to its propagation. NOTICES or BRAZIL. 69 Siara, Parahyba, and Piauhy are less fertile than the cap- taincies already named. Nevertheless, its numerous flocks and ' herds supply a lucrative branch of trade. The riches of the vegetable kingdom in Maranham and Para, are incalculable. Cotton flourishes, the cacao tree covers the banks of certain rivers, several spice-trees grow spontaneously, and among the choice woods is that called citrin, which is re- served for the manufacture of the most sumptuous kind of moveables. All these will be sources of wealth, when the country becomes more densely populated. Besides the products already named, indigo grows in several parts of Brazil, and the cochineal was formerly cultivated in the neighborhood of Rio Janeiro. With all these advantages, added to a little more industry and a greater population, Brazil might soon rank herself amongst the richest and most powerful nations on earth. Finally, the southern provinces export wheat, hides, horn, hair, and tallow ; the middle, gold and precious stones ; and the northern, cotton, coffee, sugar, tobacco, and Brazil wood. The quantities of the staple articles exported annually have been estimated at one hundred thousand cases of sugar, of fifteen quintals (128 lb.) each; a hundred and fifty thousand bales of cotton, and between twelve and thirteen millions of pounds of coffee ! The imports are chiefly wines, brandy, and oil, from Portugal ; dry goods and hardware from England ; and flour, salted provisions, naval stores, and household furniture, from the United States. The population of Brazil, according to the latest census, in 1819, is as follows; Whites, 843,000 Indians, 259,400 Free castes. 426,000 Slave do. 200,000 Free blacks, 159,500 Black slaves. 1,728,000 Total, 3,615,900 70 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. Notwithstanding the numerous exploring expeditions of the Paulists, the discovery of those treasures which have given ce- lebrity to the district where they are found, is owing to chance. Though they performed many journeys in search of precious stones, the Brazilians were for a long time ignorant that they possessed extensive mines of diamonds. In 1789, a certain Fonseca Lobo found the first stones of this kind, and handed them to a workman, who, having been at Goa, at once per- ceived their value. According to other authorities, some of them were carried to the governor of Villa-do-Principe, by whom they were used for a long time as counters. About the same time, some of them came into the possession of the Dutch minister at Lisbon, who sent them to Amsterdam and ascer- tained their value. A treaty was immediately concluded be- tween Holland and the Portuguese government, for all the precious stones found in the district of Serro-do-Frio. The mas- ters of Brazil, not discovering till too late their disadvantage in this arrangement, saw, for several years, the wealth which should have been their own, pass into the possession of rivals. When it again returned to them in 1772, these stones had lost much of their value in Europe. The diamond district is known by the name of Serro-do- Frio ; it extends sixteen leagues from north to south, and eight from east to west. It is surrounded by craggy mountains, as if nature had been at some pains to conceal her treasures from man ! Every possible precaution is taken to prevent the inha- bitants from carrying the diamonds, which are found in the auriferous sands, beyond this natural wall ; all the outlets are strictly guarded, and any person detected in breaking the law is most severely punished. Offenders were formerly sent to the coast of Angola, which punishment was looked upon by many as severe as death itself. It must not be supposed that diamonds are procured without great labor. They are sometimes found on the surface of the earth ; but it is not unfrequently necessary to turn the course of rivers, to obtain even a small quantity. Until the present period, the river Jiquitihonha has furnished most of this kind of wealth. Large masses of that species of flint, known in the NOTICES OF BRAZIL. 71 country by the name of <' cascalhao,'' are found in it, which are submitted to a lavatory process, in such a way as to prevent every opportunity of fraud. The diamond is almost always en- veloped in a ferruginous crust; therefore, long practice is ne- cessary to enable persons to distinguish them from the flints among which they are imbedded. Nor are they procured without expense. It is calculated that every diamond obtained by the government, costs about eight dollars the carat ! Though more than a thousand ounces of diamonds have crossed the Atlantic, since the discovery of the mines, the whole produce of Tejuco has not been put in circu- lation ; because this would be a sure means of reducing the va- lue of a precious stone, which, unlike others, has only an arbi- trary price. The same policy has forbid the opening of the mines of Goias and Matto-Grosso, which are guarded by the government from the incursions of adventurers. At the time of the discovery of the famous diamond of the Portuguese crown, South America was so tranquil, that it is looked upon as an important event. It was found in the brook of Abayt6, by three malefactors who had been banished, and carried to the governor of mines by an ecclesiastic. Its size was so enormous, that repeated assays were made, before they were convinced of its being in reality a diamond. It was then sent to Lisbon, where it excited universal astonishment, and procured the pardon of the criminals. Afterwards, an explor- ing station was fixed on the banks of the Abayte, but without success ; the diamonds found were of little value, and scarcely defrayed the expense of search.* * Dennis. Histoire du Bresil. 72 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. CHAPTER IX. Departure — Voyage round Cape Horn — Cape Pigeons. Two weeks were happily spent at Rio, which will be long remembered by the writer, and many of his companions, who shared the elegant hospitalities of our countrymen and others there. To Mr. Brown, our Charge d'Affaires, and Mr. Wright, our Consul, we were indebted for many civilities, and great kindness. At daylight, on the 10th of September, 1831, being ready for sea, we got underway, with a light land breeze, and " fan- ned" out of the magnificently picturesque harbor of Rio Ja- neiro, and again tossed on the Atlantic, towards the boisterous regions ruled by the Cape Spirit ! ** Farewell to the land where the clouds love to rest, Like the shroud of the dead on the mountain's cold breast ; To the cataract's roar, where the eagles reply. And the lake her lone bosom expands to the sky !" Before sunset. Cape Frio was lost sight of, and we only thought of the storms we might encounter in passing into " Le Grand Ocean," as the French most emphatically term the Pacific. Cape Horn appears to be truly the patria nimborum. Very few days of the year, summer or winter, are cloudless ; they are all the same, cold and stormy. I have passed it four times ; once in summer, once in winter, once in spring, and once in the autumn. In all these passages, the thermometer sank as low as 32° F., and was, on no one day, above fifty. I have conversed with sealers, who have spent whole years on the cape ; with whalemen, who have doubled it in every month in the year j with the masters of merchant vessels, trading to the Pacific j and they all concur in giving a stormy character to this region. I have also examined the log-books of many ves- CAPE HORN. 73 sels, and have found them to agree, very generally, upon this subject. The journals of voyagers, particularly of the earlier navigators, give most fearful accounts of the tempests and dis- asters, generally encountered in passing from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. And if shipwreck, in our time, be less fre- quent than in the earlier ages, it must be attributed to the great improvements in marine architecture, seamanship, and naviga- tion, and not to any amelioration of the climate of the Cape, and its vicinity. For we find, that a distinguished naval com- mander, who visited the Pacific nearly twenty years since, holds the following language : " The passage round Cape Horn, from the eastward, I assert, from my own experience, is the most dangerous, most difficult, and attended with more hardships, than that of the same distance in any other part of the world;"* Of the very many merchant vessels, annually doubling Cape Horn, very few have been lost. The number that yearly pass the Cape, may be estimated at three hundred, yet so far as I have been able to learn, shipwrecks and total losses have not averaged one a year. The principal diiBEIculties of this navigation, arise from the constant prevalence of the winds from the westward, with but little variation. Vessels bound to the Pacific, have to contend with these winds, which are accompanied with cold, cutting rains, snow, hail, and sleet; and their crews are exhausted, more by the continuance than by the severity of the weather. Such was our own case, in the passage of 1831, and that of several merchant vessels, with whose officers I have conversed. The usual route pursued, going from the Atlantic to the Pa- cific Ocean, is to pass between the Falkland Islands and the main, and draw round the land as much as the prevailing winds will permit. Vessels always, if possible, « make the land" of the Cape, that is, approach near enough to see it, and then hold their way westward, until they reach the meridian of eighty or eighty-five degrees of west longitude, before attempting to * Porter^s Journal, vol. i. p. 82. See also, th^e Voyages of La Perouse, Lord Anson, Basil Hall, Frezier, &c. 10 74 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. steer to the northward. If successful in gaining that meridian^ without being driven far to the southward, the passage is gene- rally short ; — the voyage from the latitude of 40° S., in the At- lantic, to Valparaiso, is made in from thirty to thirty -five days. It frequently happens, however, that vessels are driven as far as 63°, and even 64° south, where, if to the eastward of the meridian of Cape Horn, they meet with icebergs, and suiSer severely from the cold. Vessels have been, occasionally, forty, fifty, sixty, and in some instances, seventy days, contending with wind and storms, before being able to get to the west- ward, when " hugging the land ;" while, at the very same pe- riod, the same region has been passed by others, in from fif- teen to twenty days, by pursuing the southern route. The com- bined experience of whalemen and sealers, goes to establish, that, in high southern latitudes, the winds prevail from the eastward during a great part of the year, which is directly con- trary to what is true as respects the direction of the winds in the vicinity of the land. In fact, it seems that the winds in this part of the world, blow comparatively in narrow veins ; and it has been remarked by the most experienced navigators, that gales do not blow home to the land. It is the opinion of the most intelligent seamen, that vessels should not pass through Straits La Mair ; that they should keep close in to the land, and not go south of 57° S., but beat be- tween that parallel and the land, until they may reach the me- ridian of 85° west longitude, before attempting to get to the northward. Though the wind blows generally from the west- ward, varying from south, south-west, to north, north-west, it occasionally comes from the eastward. Of three vessels that doubled Cape Horn, in October 1831, the first was thirty-one days, from Lat. 45° 40' S. Long. 58° 30' W. in the Atlantic, to Lat. 34° 30' S. Long. 79° 15' W. in the Pacific. She reached 59° 31' S. Her log-book does not show that she had the wind from the eastward at any one time ; it varied from south to north, north-west. The second vessel was thirty days from Lat. 40° 21' S. Long. 54° 5' W. in the Atlantic, to Lat. 30° 46' S. Long. 73° 30' W. in the Pacific. She passed through Straits La Mair, and went as far as 57° 54' S. She had an easterly CAPE HORN. 75 wind for several days. The third, was twenty-nine days from Lat 50° 48' S. Long. 61° W. in the Atlantic, to Lat. 45° 5'S. Long. 80° 17' W. She reached as far as 59° 7' south latitude. This vessel experienced some heavy gales, but had the advan- tage of easterly winds for several days. The United States Ship Brandywine doubled Cape Horn in December 1826. She was thirty-seven days from Rio de Ja- neiro to Valparaiso, and went as far as 58° S. The United States Ship Guerriere doubled the Cape in May 1829. She went as far as 58° 37' south, and had very little easterly wind. She was sixty days from Rio de Janeiro to Valparaiso. The United States Ship Falmouth doubled the Cape in October 1831. She was forty-nine days from Rio de Janeiro to Valpa- raiso, and went as far as 62° 5' south latitude. The commander of an English whale ship, who has doubled the Cape eighteen times, (four times in the month of March, when he found the wind prevailing from the eastward) recom- mends the month of March to enter the Pacific, and November to return. The master of an American merchant ship, who has doubled the Cape eight times, thinks it advisable, in case of strong head winds, "to lay to" under Staten Land, and there wait for a favorable opportunity. From all we can learn, it seems advisable not to pass through the Straits La Mair ; to keep close in with the land, say within twenty or thirty miles ; not to go south of 57° ; and not to at- tempt to decrease the latitude, until in the meridian of 85° W., no matter how promising the appearances of the weather may be. The reasons given for this course are ; first, though the winds be mostly from the westward, they are not constantly from that quarter ; second, that the gales are not so severe near the land, and do not blow home ; third, that there are no cur- rents setting on shore ; and fourth, by not being too far south, advantage may be taken of a favorable wind, that, in a few hours, might carry the vessel beyond the parallel of the Cape, which would be unavailing, if the ship should be as far as 63^ S. — as has been recommended — because these winds do not al- ways last long enough to carry a vessel many hundred miles. 76 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC Within a few years, another passage has been successfully tried by several vessels ; that which originally led to the Pa- cific — the Straits of Magellan. From their entrance on the At- lantic, to Cape Pillar, on the Pacific, is estimated to be from three to four hundred miles. The breadth varies from eight to twenty miles. The water is deep, the anchorage good, the surface generally smooth, and both its coasts abound in safe and convenient harbors, which may always be gained seasonably by vessels passing through the straits. About a year since, an American barque, drawing more than fifteen feet water, passed through in four days ; the master informed us that he encoun- tered no difficulty, of any kind whatever. Sealers, who fre- quent that part of the world, are quite familiar with the navi- gation, and do not hesitate between it and going round the Cape. One of H. B. M. vessels of war, properly equipped for the purpose, is now engaged in surveying the Straits of Ma- gellan, and it is to be hoped, that the report of her commander will do much to dispel the objections to taking that route to the Pacific. This subject is one which merits the attention of navigators ; and if each one would forward an extract from his log-book, to some of the public journals, with such observations as might suggest themselves, it might be soon settled.* The Sailor's Magazine would, no doubt, publish any thing that might have a tendency to clear this matter from the uncertainty at present connected with it. It is to be hoped, that navy officers, cruising in the Pacific, will not be backward in collecting and forward- ing information upon the subject, to the editor of the "Mili- tary and Naval Magazine," which ought to be cherished by the talent and patronage of both branches of the service. From latitude 22'^ south, in the Atlantic, our ship was fol- lowed to Valparaiso by numbers of petrels, or Cape pigeons. They were of two kinds, the spotted and the silvery. The first is rather larger than the domestic pigeon, but from the thick- ness of its plumage, weighs much less. The feet are three toed • SiHiman's Journal for April, 1834, contains an interesting article on this subject, by M. F. Maury, of the United Spates Navy. CAPE HORN. 77 and webbed ; the eyes are black ; the bill hooked, with one exterior nostril ; tail short. The breast is beautifully white, and the back, wings, and tail, spotted black and white ; and from that circumstance, Frezier says, the sailors called them damiers, or draught-boards.* Its motions are graceful. It sails about the stern of vessels at sea, sometimes balancing itself upon the wing, and again dropping gently to the surface, to pick up any crumbs that may have been thrown overboard, and then mounts upon its untiring course. When caught, as many were with hook and line trailed over the stern, it is un- able to rise from the deck, and attempts to defend itself by ejecting the contents of the stomach, and a pure yellow oil of a fishy odor. The silver variety is of about the same size. The breast is a brilliant white, and the back, wings, and tail, are of a light leaden hue, but of silvery brightness ; in other respects it does not differ very much from the first. On the 8th of October, though nearly four hundred miles from land, (the latitude being 61° 49' S., and the longitude 74° 50' W.) the birds still followed us. Besides the pigeons, numbers of albatross were caught at the stern, and afforded fine sport to many persons on board. On the ninth, the wind changed from west to south-west by west, and all the birds left us, but returned again on the eleventh, when the wind hauled to the northward and westward, and remained with us till we arrived at Valparaiso. The largest albatross caught, measured seven feet from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. On the 18th, the latitude was 50° 28* S., and the longitude 79° 53' 15" W., and we all indulged in the hope that we had passed all the perils and tedium of the Cape ; for the long, deep blue swell, which distinguishes the Pacific from the At- lantic, was now remarked by every body ; but we had not yet passed " where Chiloe's tempests sweep," and were therefore disappointed. On the 19th the barometer sunk to 28.75 inches, and we soon after had a fresh gale, that rendered it prudent to * Frezier : Voyage to the South Sea. London. 1717. 78 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC "lie to under a close reefed main topsail." On the 20th we furled the main topsail, and laid to under " the fore and aft sails," for the purpose of trying the qualities of the ship, more than from necessity, and it was not till the 24th, that we got a fine breeze from the west. Our position was, that day, 42° 41' south latitude, and 77° 45' west longitude. From that time the weather remained pleasant, and the winds favorable, till we arrived at Valparaiso. NOTICES OF CHILE NOTICES OF CHILE. CHAPTER I. Arrival at Valparaiso — Bay — Appearance of the place — Landing — Town- Market — Scenes in the street — Costume — Oracidn — Plaza — Cries — Beggars. At four o'clock in the afternoon of the 29th of October, 1831, after a passage of forty-nine days from Rio de Janeiro, and having sailed 12,548 miles from New York, we anchored in the bay of Valparaiso. Those who, on the voyage to the " Vale of Paradise," had anticipated their experience, and formed a picture of the place in their imaginations, from written descriptions, found their hearts sink with disappointment at the first glance. *'Is this the lauded « Vale of Paradise !' Is this the spot we have heard of so often on our voyage, as the scene of pleasure!" exclaimed some ; *' I feel no inclination to go ashore at such a looking place. It resembles a brick-kiln more than a town! If the lee coast be no better than this, I have seen enough of the Pacific." Such were the remarks of those who had never twirled in the waltz with the fair Chil6nas, nor experienced the hospitality of a Chile reception. Yet they have all since leariied, that social pleasures may be totally independent of locality and scenery — whatever may be their influence upon the imagination and the mind. On approaching the coast, the land is seen, in clear weather, above the clouds, capped with snow, even before the line of 11 82 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIPIC, coast is perceived above the horizon. At sunrise, the chain of the gigantic Cordilleras is seen, many miles at sea, in their natural and desolate grandeur. Soon after the sun rises, the land is shrouded by a curtain of mist, and it often happens, that fifty or sixty miles are passed over, before the high land of the coast is descried. As it is approached, we find it rocky, stand- ing up, broken and wild, from the very margin of the ocean. Still closer, its barrenness proclaims itself j and few are not disappointed, when they discover, in midsummer, that vege- tation is parched and dry. In midwinter, which is the rainy season, all nature is gay ; the hills are green ; the air is soft and pleasant, and the atmosphere remarkably clear. Those who arrive at this period are always delighted. Thus it was, in the month of June, that a late traveller saw the trees and bushes which do not exist ; but which his happy fancy created from the tall cactus, that stands as an indication of the soil's sterility. In October, when the rains have ceased, and their influence on the wild vegetation is no longer felt, as is the case now, the high hills of Valparaiso are barren, red, and bare ; scarce a bush is seen, and nothing but the "cardon" (cactus) outlives the drying winds of summer. These facts go far to reconcile the discrepancies of various descriptions. Arrive in whatever month they may, those who have sojourned here a few days, seldom rejoice to leave j and after a few months on the northern coast, return with renewed pleasure. This bay, which opens to the north, is bounded by a land line resembling the curve of a sickle, the longer part of which is to the north, and is ultimately lost in the coast j the shorter curve terminates in what is called Valparaiso point. From it, across the mouth of the bay, to the northern point, called Con- con, is nine miles. The anchorage is in the south-western part of the bay. In the shorter curve, or opposite to the anchorage, is sheltered under the high land, " La ciuddd y el puerto de Valparaiso." Scarcely allowing room for a single street along the beach, the hills rise perpendicularly a hundred and fifty feet, then fall back and continue to rise at an angle of about twenty-five degrees. On their very summit is erected a signal staff, or telegraph, which stands twa thousand feet above the NOTICES OF CHILE. 83 sea.* The high land is continuous entirely round the bay, but is thrown into waves or undulations ; and, in several places, is broken into deep glens or gorges, called "quebridas," which embouche close to the water's edge. In front of the anchorage is a high bluflf, or block of land, formed by a " quebrMa" running on either side of it, called Monte A16gre, and sometimes reproachfully, " Cerro de los Judeos," or Jews' Hill. Upon it are built several fine dwell- ings, occupied by English and American residents, who live there, almost entirely apart from the natives, forming a sort of foreign colony. The quebrida on the right, is the "Quebrdda de San Augustin ;" between it and the next — " Quebrdda de San Francisco" — are the ruins of the former castle and gover- nor's house, which were shaken down by the severe earth- quake of November, 1822.t Farther to the right, the high land is divided by quebrddas into several bluffs, called by En- glish and American sailors, "the fore, main, and mizen tops." To the left of Monte A16gre, are the Catholic and Protestant burial grounds, separated by a passage twenty feet wide ; and not far from them, is the powder magazine. A little beyond this point, the high land begins to recede, leaving a broad tri- angular plain, upon which is built that part of the town called the " Almendrdl," or Almond Grove. The name led the tra- veller before alluded to, into a supposition that the groves seen from the anchorage are of almond trees, but there are not more than two trees of the kind in the place. What he saw, are the <' Oliv^res," or plantations of olive trees, of which there are five or six in different parts of this section of the town. At the end, or bottom of the Almendrdl, is seen the road to Santiago, mounting in a zigzag line over the hills, or ** Altos de Valpa- raiso.'' At the foot of the " altos" is a small brook, nearly dry in summer, but which in winter swells to a large stream, almost worthy the name of river. To the northward and eastward, and about three miles from * Porter's Journal. f For an account of that earthquake, see Miers' Travels in Chile and Lti Plata. London, 1826. 84 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. the bottom of the Altnendrdl, is a small fort, under the guns of which, in 1814, the United States Ship Essex was captured by the British, after a gallant resistance of a superior force, and under other unequal circumstances.* In the same direction, the peak of Aconcdgua, the bell of Quillota, and the great chain of the Cordilleras, crowned with perpetual snow, close this pic- ture of hills and mountains. " Hill peeps o'er hill, and Alps on Alps arise." At this season, (October,) the number of launches, pulling "to and fro," loading and unloading every variety of craft, under almost every flag, announces the activity of trade. Close in to the western shore, are moored two or three hulks, which formed a part of the expedition to Peru under San Martin, which struck the fatal blow to Spanish power on this side of the Andes. The only vessel of the Chilian Navy, now kept in commission, is a beautiful brig of war ; in fact the only one that has any preten- sions to efficiency. The anchorage is considered good ; though, at certain seasons, it is dangerous. In winter, which is from the middle of May to the end of August, north winds prevail, and throw into the bay a swell so heavy, that vessels some- times snap their cables, and are driven on shore, where they soon beat to pieces. The winter is also the rainy season, if a dozen rainy days, in the course of that time, can be so called. The most implicit reliance is placed upon the indications of changes in the weather, afforded by the barometer ; so soon as it begins to fall, even when the surface of the mercury becomes concave, north wind and rain may be most confidently expect- ed ; particularly, if the land to the northward be distinctly visible. During the rest of the year, the wind prevails from the southward, and blows at times so strongly that ships drag to sea, from the anchoring ground being a declivity ; — the same winds bring with them such quantities of dust, that the eyes of people walking the streets suffer severely. Previous to 1830, the landing was upon the sand beach. In • Porter's Journal. NOTICES OF CHILE. 85 that year a very commodious jetty was built, under the di- rection of an officer of the Chilian Navy, who is by birth and education an American. In less than a year after it was finished, those piles which were not defended by copper, were completely reduced to a honeycomb state, by a curious little animal, called an auger worm, {terrido navalis,) from the re- semblance its head bears to the common auger. It is small, white, and almost gelatinous, with the exception of the head, which is armed with two moveable plates of shell, by which, it is presumed, the animal perforates the wood. As it advances in the work of destruction, it lengthens, and increases in size, constantly enlarging the cell, in proportion to the demand for accommodation. The cell is lined with a calcareous coating, (the secretion of the animal) similar to the shells of the mol- luscous tribes. The worm sometimes attains several feet in length, and an inch in diameter. From the havoc made on the jetty, it may be easily inferred what would be the fate of a vessel, not defended by copper, were she to remain long in this port. The town of Valparaiso is divided into the Port and Almen- drdl. The port consists of one irregular street, and the quebrd,- das, which are built in, wherever a site for a house is possibly attainable. "Ranchos," or huts, are perched about on the hill sides, like great birds' nests, wherever a resting place can be scooped out. The, want of level land is a great drawback upon the advancement of this place ; nevertheless, it improves more rapidly than any other city on this side of Cape Horn. Most of the houses on the main street, are good two story buildings, occupied on the ground floor by stores and warerooms. In the eastern part of the Port, and in the Almendrdl, the houses are only one story high. They are all built of "adobes," or sun- dried bricks, white-washed, and roofed with, red tiles. The great square or plaza is small. Lately, it has been much improved by being paved, and by the erection of a " Cabildo," or government house, on one side of it. During the early part of the day, the plaza is filled with trunks made of hide, full of fruit, vegetables, and baskets of poultry. The market is per- haps the best, and is certainly the cheapest on the coast. Be- 86 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. yond the plaza, is a second market-place, formed of booths, ranged in the form of a hollow square, where are sold butcher's meats, as well as vegetables and fruits. The native method of butchering, is very different from ours ; instead of cutting the animal into joints and pieces, the large muscles are dissected out separately, which is well adapted to the ways of Chilian cookery. Butcher's meat is also hawked about the town on jackasses, which generally excites disgust in the stranger, both from the dry, dirty appearance of the meat, and the savage, bloody look of the butcher, who carries a large knife in the hand, as he slowly follows the ass, crying, in a drawling tone, <'carne de vaca," — or "came carnero," beef, or mutton. There are one or two English butchers, who supply the foreign residents, and foreign vessels visiting the place. Poultry and game are plenty, and sold at reasonable prices. In their differ- ent seasons, varieties of fruits and vegetables, in abundance, are brought to market from the neighboring valleys of Quillota, Milapilla, and Casablanca. The principal fruits are, grapes, oranges, (not very good), apples, pears, peaches, (which have but little flavor,) plums, apricots, nectarins, lemons, (both sweet and sour) limes ; figs twice a year, the first crop being what are termed " brevas," and the second "higos ;" strawber- ries of a very large size, some of them measuring five and six inches in circumference, but of very inferior flavor; and excel- lent musk melons. The water melons, which are small, but very good, form a large portion of the diet of the lower classes. The Madeira nut, and a large species of chestnut, are very plenty. There is another nut, called " piilon,"* very similar to the chestnut in taste. The vegetables are, potatoes, yucas, cabbages, cauliflowers, cucumbers, radishes, pumpkins, toma- toes, lettuce, celery, peas, beans, &c. Neither the fruits nor * In Spanish, the tilde (") over the n, gives to the word in which the fi occurs, the same sound as if it were followed, in English, by the letter y; ih.\\9, pinon is pronounced piny one; niha, as if written ninya; manana, as if written many ana; Dona, as if written, Donya, &c. As I cannot take the liberty of changing the Spanish orthography, I have thought best to give the above explanation now, that the reader may not be at a loss, whenever the n occurs in the course of this work. NOTICES OF CHILE. 87 vegetables, owing to some peculiarity of soil, possess the same excellence of flavor as those of Europe and the United States. The best are the grapes and figs. The fruit trees are never grafted. It is but reasonable to suppose that greater care in their cultivation would very much improve the taste and size of the fruits. Besides all the good things of the land mentioned, the bay and its neighboring coasts furnish the market with a variety of fine fish. Many of the molluscous animals, taken on the rocks, are sold in the plaza, and are eaten by the lower classes. Amongst them are several species of Chiton, called "prende- d&res," or squeezers, from their habit of rolling themselves up very strongly, when taken from the rocks ; one or two of Ba- lanusy or barnacle; a large species of Donax; several of the Fissurella and Patella; and one which is styled by Blainville, Choncholepas Peruvianus. From the greater part of the business being transacted within a small space, the street, in the morning, presents a very lively scene. It was formerly almost impassable, from the collecting together of a great number of ox-carts, used for bringing to market the produce of Santiago and the surrounding country. A decree, not long since issued, ordered that light carts should be substituted for the heavy ones ; but the evil is not removed, for those now in use are nearly as large as the old " carr6tas." Besides, troops of laden mules and jackasses are constantly passing and repassing; and half of the busy world of Valpa- raiso being constantly on horseback, renders it necessary to be always on the qui vive while walking the street. In front of the landing and jetty is the custom house, lately erected, and well adapted to the purposes for which it was in- tended; and to the left are the "capitania," or captain of the port's office, and the <«resguardo," a department of the cus- tom house. There is always a crowd of boatmen sauntering about this spot, ready to make themselves useful when there is any prospect of remuneration. They are stout, brawny, ath- letic men,, with good humored faces of a light olive complexion ; from foreign sailors they have acquired English enough to make themselves understood, and to annoy every stranger who 8S THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. passes. The moment an Englishman or an American comes in sight, a half dozen of these men run forward, calling, " you want hoty — me hoty very fine," at the same time rolling up the legs of their trowsers to be in readiness to launch one of the whale boats from the row constantly drawn up on the beach to the right of the jetty. If the stranger maintain silence, the boatmen dance down before him, looking inquisitively in his face, and if they discover he really wishes to embark, they rush, each to his respective boat, and holding up one hand, to attract attention, vociferate or cry in an animated tone, " aqui, mi patron — aqui, me boty.^' If the "patron" now declare that he does not intend to go afloat, the whole crowd set up a good natured shout at the expense of their disappointed bro- thers. When strangers land, the boatmen are the first to wel- come them with smiling faces, and to extend an arm to assist them on shore, without afterwards expecting a reward for this natural sort of politeness. Next to the busy appearance of the street and the landing, the individuals of the picture attract attention. The " agua- dores" and their donkeys, that supply every family with water from springs in the difierent quebrddas, stand forth conspicuous in the eyes of the newly arrived North American. The don- key carries two small barrels or kegs, suspended one on either side, in a wooden frame adapted to the purpose ; and the *' aguad6r" sits en croupe, swinging his bare legs, first one and then the other, as if spurring. He wears a coarse cone shaped hat drawn well over his face, a shirt with sleeves rolled up above the elbow, a leather apron, something like that of a black- smith, and loose trowsers reaching just below the knee. He carries a pole about six feet long, armed with an iron curve or hook before him, lying crosswise. A small tinkling bell, at- tached to the saddle, gives notice of his approach. These men, apparently the happiest and steadiest fellows in the world, manifest a sort of indifierence or nonchalance for every thing around them ; having learned a lesson of patience from the ani- mal they drive, they are never in haste, nor can they be in- duced to move out of their accustomed pace. When the wa- ter-carrier stops, and removes one of the barrels, to prevent NOTICES OP CHILE. 8& the other from dragging the saddle round, he props it with the pole which he carries for that purpose. Water is worth a real (twelve and a half cents) the "cargo" or load. The muleteers also wear cone-shaped straw hats, "ponchos/' breeches that extend below the knee, " botas" or leggings, and hide sandals, with great spurs, the rowels of which are fre- quently three and even four inches in diameter. The "pon- cho" is an oblong piece of cloth, from six to ten feet long, and from three to five broad, fringed at the edges, with a slit in the centre, (bound with ribbon), through which the head is passed, leaving the ends to fall down in careless drapery before and behind, so as to conceal the upper part of the figure. When the poncho becomes toa warm, or otherwise inconvenient, it is knotted round the waist, discovering that the body and shoulders are clothed in a coarse, dark colored, woollen shirt or frock, with short sleeves. The poncho is of every variety of color; sometimes plain, and sometimes ornamented with stripes of flowers and fancy patterns in lively colors. This garment is universally worn by all classes when riding on horseback; its cost varies, according.to the material of which it is made, from four to a hundred dollars; The legs are de- fended by a pair of woollen leggings, of a dark color, striped or plain, extending from the foot half way up the thigh, and secured below the knee by a tasselled garter, giving to the whole figure a striking and unique appearance. The " betas," like the poncho, are worn by all classes when on horseback. Such is the general costume of the " arrieros" and " peones" — muleteers and laborers — varying only in the fineness of the texture, according to the wearer's purse. The spurs of the poorest class are of iron ; but the ambition of every man in Chile is to obtain, next to a fine horse, a pair of huge silver spurs. The mules are covered on either side with thick pads of unsheared sheep skins, upon which the load is lashed by thongs or ropes of hide. That he may stand quiet, when laden or unladen, the muleteer blindfolds the animal by throwing the poncho over his eyes. It is curious to see laden males coming in from the country. They are strung together, one behind the other, by a hide rope or halter, leading from the 12 90 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. tail of the one to the neck of the other, in succession, with a space of about ten feet between them. The costume of gentlemen, when attending to business, ge- nerally consists of a short jacket of white or blue cloth, ac- cording to the season, and a felt, or straw hat, of Manila or Guayaquil manufacture, not differing, in other respects, from that of the United States. The young men of fortune follow the fashions given to them by French or English tailors. The dress of the ladies, when walking, is the same as that termed in the United States an evening dress. They wear neither hats nor bonnets, but instead, ornament the hair, which they know how to arrange in excellent taste, with two or three natural flowers. The parasol affords protection to their complexion, when it requires any, for they seldom walk till the sun has in a degree lost his power. When they go to church — which they do every morning at sunrise — they dress in black, with a veil or mantilla over the head. Reader, be kind enough to picture to yourself a busy crowd, composed of the various figures I have attempted to sketch ; moving through a narrow street in different directions. The "aguador" threading along among troops of mules and carts ; merchants discussing the quality and price of goods ; their clerks hurrying to and from the custom-house ; the *'guaso" or countryman, with hat, poncho, botas, and spurs, seated in his comfortable saddle, with toes thrust into the sides of huge blocks of wood, that answer the place of stirrups, guiding his docile animal ; ladies in their walking dress, with parasol, and followed by little Indian servants, from Arauco ; the "dul- c6ro," or vender of sweetmeats, crying " dulces ;'' " merca- chifles," or pedlars, with loads of ribbons and trifles, praising in stentorian voices the cheapness of their goods ; sailors, riding horses that might be taken for the descendants of the famed "Rocinante,"* pushing and spurring on in spite of all obstacles. • This word is in perfect keeping with the whole of that inimitable work of Cervantes, Don Quixote ; it is derived from rodn, which signifies a hack horse, and ante, before or formerly. NOTICES OP CHILE. 91 Fancy all these, and you may have an idea of Valparaiso, near the landing, on a week day morning. At four o'clock in the afternoon, the streets are almost de- serted. At that hour business ceases ; the natives take the "siesta," or afternoon nap, and foreigners go home to dine. At sunset the world wakes up, and the street becomes again animated. The chandler makes his appearance, bearing a load of dirty tallow candles, strung on a pole over his shoulder, crying «< velas de sebo" — tallow candles ; and the tinker makes himself heard, shouting, *'el hojalat^ro — vasinicas de hoja- lata mui bardtas" — the tinker, chamber utensils of tin — very cheap. No hour could be more appropriate for vending these articles, than the close of the day! Ladies and gentlemen sally forth at this hour, for the ''pas6o," or promenade; at this hour, too, is " oraci&n," — the church bell lolls, and every body stands silent and uncovered, while he repeats the evening prayer. In a few seconds the bell again strikes, and every one signs himself with the cross, then wishes his neighbour a good night. On these occasions, it is the etiquette for the eldest in company to be the first to say good night ; and it is sometimes amusing to see them dispute who shall begin ; the younger ones present leaving it to their seniors to make this sort of acknow- ledgment of age — "Diga V™*^," at last says one — "No Senor, diga V™"^," replies another; — "Say you" — "No Sir, say you!" During the evening the shops are lighted, and the streets are enlivened by parties of ladies "shopping." On Thursday nights, a military band serenades the governor at nine o'clock, and crowds of people assemble to enjoy it with him. On Satur- day nights the streets are particularly gay. The plaza is sprink- led over with flat baskets of shoes, ranged with great care, and lighted by a tallow candle, stuck upon their sides ; it is a custom of great antiquity for ladies to repair there to purchase shoes, for it is said, the Chilenas require a new pair every week. The size is ascertained by measuring them with the spread fingers; and perhaps experience, gained by the frequency of fitting themselves, is of considerable advantage. Even until very late at night, men are heard crying through 92 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. the street, "aceittanas" — olives ; and "picdntes" — morsels of meat and vegetables highly spiced. Both during the day and night, beggars sit at the corners, with their feet drawn up be- neath them, their hands in an imploring posture, crying in a whining, nasal tone, to every passer-by, ''una lim&sna porun pobre, por el amor de Dios" — alms for a poor man, for God's sake. These appeals, however, are seldom heeded. On Satur- days, it is a universal custom, I believe, in all South America, as well as in Spain, for beggars to throng the streets, and ask alms in the name of their patron saints. There is scarcely a family, that has not a certain number of mendicants to whom it gives something on Saturdays, but refuses charity to all others, and to them also on all other days. It is not uncommon to meet old men on horseback, beseeching charity in the most piteous tones; — "un medioclto por amor de Dios" — a medio (6^ cents) for the love of God. The diminutive, cito, is added, to lessen in appearance the amount of the gratuity asked. I am not aware how much this custom bears upon the proverb, about **set a beggar on horseback," &c., or whether it has, in fact, any truth in Chile. CHAPTER II. Society — Introduction to a Family — Costume — Furniture — Mat£ — Singing — Cigars — Presenting of Flowers — Leave-taking — Traits of Character — A day visit — Anecdote — Tertulia on a Sunday evening — Dancing — " El cudndo" — " La Perdiz" — Foreign Society. The conventional customs of society in Valparaiso, differ in many respects from those of the United States. Day visiting, except on Sundays, is not usual, which is the reverse with us, that day being set aside for the worship of the Deity. Yet, on becoming intimately acquainted with any family, it may be visited at all times, without any one thinking it improper, or even hazarding a conjecture as to the motive, should the calls NOTICES OF CHILE- 93 fee Frequent. At sunset the ladies are generally prepared to re- ceive company, and expect it. The history of my first visit will give a better idea of the forms of society, than a simple rehearsal of them. I followed a friend into a drawing room, furnished in the Chile fashion, with tables, mirrors, a sofa, a piano, and a great number of chairs, ranged in two rows facing each other, on that side of the room where the sofa stood. A "petdte," or thick straw mat, covered the floor, and a strip of carpet was laid only under the chairs on one side of the room. It was twilight, and can- dles had not been yet brought. Three ladies sat upon the sofa, conversing, with their feet drawn up under them, h la Turque, while a fourth stood looking through a glass door that opened upon a balcony, beating one of the panes with her fingers, as if it had been a piano, and humming a waltz. The evening was cool, and the ladies were all covered with large shawls, the right corner being thrown over the left shoulder, so as to bury the chin in its folds, much after the manner that dandies wear the Spanish cloak. In the winter, this custom is universal ; then the nose and chin are hidden in the shawl, the eyes only being seen above the fold. During that season, having neither hearths nor chimneys in the house, except for the kitchen, the ladies keep warm by placing a "braz6ro," or copper pan of well burned charcoal, near the sofa, with a basket, made for the purpose, turned over it, upon which they rest their feet, or even sit. As we entered the apartment, which was high and airy, the ladies on the sofa ceased their conversation, and bent forward in formal salutation, as my conductor said, "^Como pasan ustedes, Senoritas ? Un Amigo!" — How do you do, ladies ? A friend — pointing to me as he pronounced the last word. The lady who was humming, curtsied and took a chair. "Que fresquito es la noche, Don Samuel! — the evening is a little cool, Don Samuel ! — ask your friend to be seated," said the eldest lady to my cicerone^ and then resumed the con- versation for a moment with the three young ladies, who were her daughters. I felt very much as if I were not welcome, from the cold reception we had received. Presently long tal- low candles with thick wicks were brought in, and one set 94 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. upon each of the tables, placed under the mirrors ; this gave me an opportunity to survey the arrangement of the furniture already mentioned. A glance showed me that the three sisters were delicate brunettes, with fine black eyes, wearing the hair in two large ringlets or rather rolls on either temple, while that of the back of the head was folded over a very large tor- toise shell comb of beautiful workmanship, en Jiligrane. Many of the combs worn in Chile measure from eighteen inches to two feet around the top ! The shawls were of Canton crape, embroidered with flos silk, (the work of the ladies' own hands), and the dresses of French muslin of gay patterns. The only ornaments in the hair were natural roses and pinks, dis- posed with much taste. The expression of their countenances was grave, intelligent, and rather pleasing. When the lights were brought, the ladies on the sofa slipped their feet to the floor, adjusted their dresses, and Dona Juana, the mother, said, " ^El Senor, habla Castella.no?" — " Does the Gentleman speak Spanish ?" My friend replied that I did, and said to me in English, " now I shall leave you to make acquaintance your- self." " I Usted es recien llegado, Senor ?" — " You are recently ar- rived, Sir." This question was followed by several others, and the good lady seemed to manifest great interest in all my replies, expressing a hope that I would be pleased with Chile. <<^ Que serd la gracia de usted, Caballero ?" — " What is your (Christened) name, Cavalier?" asked Dona Carmencita, the eldest daughter. ''Francisco, para servir a usted, Seilorita," — "Francis, at your service, Miss," I replied. *' Are you fond of music, Don Francisco? *' Yes ! very — do you play ?" ** A little" — then she requested her youngest sister. Dona Ignacita, to play ''alguna cosita," some little thing. The young lady obeyed the request, as if it had been a mandate, opened the piano, and played several waltzes, at the end of each of which, Don Samuel said, "mui bien, Senorita" — "Very well, Miss." She was interrupted by a female servant, (a slattern by the way) bringing in a tray of tea and maUy followed by a young NOTICES OP CHILE. 95 Indian girl from Arauco, bearing a silver salver of cakes, &c. The Araucanians, when taken and instructed young, make ex- cellent servants ; and there is scarcely a family without one in its service, particularly where there are young ladies. This race has borne the character of fierce and warlike from the earliest times ; their valor and martial prowess have been cele- brated in an epic of thirty-seven cantos, entitled ^' La Arau- cana," by Don Alonzo de Ercilla y Zuniga. — Speaking of the country of Arauco, he says, •' V^nus y Aman aqui no alcanzan parte. Solo domina el iracundo Marte." The <«mat6," or, as it is familiarly called, "yerba mat6," {Ilex Paraguensis), is a plant of Paraguay, used in almost every part of South America, as a substitute for tea. It ar- rives in Chile from the Rio de la Plata, by the way of Cape Horn, or by crossing the Cordilleras, packed in bales of hide. It presents to the eye a greenish yellow dust, in which are mingled broken leaves and stems of the plant. This mate- rial, infused in boiling water, forms the "mate," which every where in Chile, previous to the revolution, was substituted for the more costly tea of China ; since that period, the old ladies only adhere to the practice, while the young ones, more refined in taste, prefer sipping Young Hyson or Bohea, from a gilt edged China tea-cup. The " yerba," with sugar and the outer rind of orange or lemon peel, or pieces of cin- namon, are placed in a globular vessel holding about a gilly and boiling water is poured in upon them. The vessel con- taining the infusion, termed "a mate," is either entirely of silver, or of a small gourd, banded with silver, supported by a stem and plate of the same metal. A silver cover, perforated with a hole for the passage of the "bombilla," and secured to the side by a chain, serves to retain the heat and aroma of the plant. The " bombilla" is a tube from ten to twelve inches long, terminated at one end by a bulb (not unlike that of a thermometer) pierced with many small holes 5 like " the mat6,'' it is silver, or consists of a cane tube with a metal bulb. Such is the apparatus from which the elderly Chil6nas sip, 96 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. or rather suck their favorite beverage, at a temperature very little below that of boiling water. Dona Juana took " the mate," and after two or three sips, offered it to me, to try whether it were pleasant ; however willing I might have been: to receive the tube into my mouth, immediately after coming from the pouting lips of her daughters, I must confess, I felt some repugnance to suck the same stem with Dona Juana. Yet, recollecting that one of Bazil Hall's officers had given offence by carrying a " bombilla" for his peculiar use, I took "the mat6," and finding it agreeable in flavor, did not relin- quish it until 1 had drawn it to the dregs. Those who take " mate" for the first time, usually burn their lips ; and it is the only mistake at which ladies laugh ; in fact, a cynic could scarcely keep his countenance : fancy a gentleman pressing a hot silver tube between his lips, jerking back his head in sur- prise, then resorting to his handkerchief to dry his eyes, and while he does so, attempting to smile — the tout ensemble pro- duces the most whimsical expression of countenance imagi- nable. Two or three " mates" are generally quite sufficient to supply a company of eight or ten persons; for they are passed from mouth to mouth till all are satisfied. When the fluid is exhausted, " the mate" is replenished with sugar, and hot water from a silver kettle, usually placed in the room upon a small " brazero" of living coals. The young ladies preferred tea, and I joined in the prefer- ence, though I do not think mate disagreeable to the taste. The whole was carried out at the expiration of a few minutes. Mat6 drinking, or rather sipping, is fast going out of fashion, and in the haut ton is now seldom seen. Doiia Panchita, the second sister, played several marches, and then Dona Carmencita, upon our solicitation, took her seat at the instrument, ran her fingers over the keys, and ac- companied herself in Rossini's " Dolce ingrata patria." She sang with skill, and executed with much taste ; but she had the nasal enunciation, which is very general with all the Chil6nas when they sing, and which is exceedingly disagreeable to those unaccustomed to it. The music had the effect of removing, in a considerable de- NOTICKS OP CHILE. 97 gree, the restraint which I felt at our reception. The first waltz on the piano dispelled the stiffness of conversation, which was afterwards carried on during the whole evening with great vivacity. When Dona Carmencita ended her song, a small silver globe (supported on a stem and plate, like the mat6-cup,) holding a single coal, was brought in, and Dofia Juana begged us to enjoy our cigars the same as if we were at home.—" Don Francisco, porque no pita usted su cig^ro ? haga usted lo mismo, como en su misma casa." " Don Francisco, why do you not smoke your cigar? — do the same as if you were in your own house." — Adopting the maxim, a Rome comme a Home, we indulged ourselves in smoking one of the cigars of Chile, called " hojas," or *f hojitas." They are about two inches and an half long; the wrapper is made of the inner husk of corn, and filled with coarsely powdered tobacco. As their use is apt to stain the fingers of the smoker, the fashionable young gentlemen carry a pair of delicate gold tweezers for holding them. The cigar is so small in size, that it requires not more than three or four minutes to smoke one. It serves well to fill up an interval in conversation. At tertfilias, the gentlemen sometimes retire to a balcony, to smoke one or two cigars after a dance. About eight o'clock, a party, consisting of four ladies and two gentlemen, came in. The same stiffness of reception Was manifest on their entrance, except that the ladies rose from their seats, and embraced their female guests one after the other. Yet the conversation was soon very animated, dresses were criticised, the theatre spoken of; and it was mentioned as a profound secret, that a ball was to be given by some one of their mutual friends. Then the subject changed to the in- disposition of some one of the family, and each lady recited a long list of remedies which were infallible, relating how such a one had suffered from the same disease. I inferred from the whole discussion, that a violent quack medicine called '< Pan- quimagogo," was the most effectual, as well as the most popu- lar of all remedies, in all diseases. Soon after the arrival of the ladies and gentlemen, ices, cakes, liqueurs, and water, were served to all. The conversation did 13 98 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. not flag; and I was impressed with the fact, that the ladies fre- quently displayed considerable archness and humor in their re- marks ; and this I found to be the case in all my intercourse with Chilian society. Just before taking leave, Dona Ignacita left the room, and returned in a few minutes with a handful of flowers, and pre- sented one to each of the guests, in a manner that was very graceful, her face being lighted up with smiles ; yet she said not a word. This universal custom of presenting flowers to guests, is a beautiful token of welcome; and where they are not offered, it is certain that the visiter has not made a favor- able impression, and a repetition of his visits will not be ac- ceptable. This presentation is made on the three or four first visits, but is afterwards omitted. Of the origin of this custom, I know nothing ; yet I was pleased with it, and bore off my rose as an emblem of friendship, and valued it more when I came to understand the full force of this kind of language. When we took leave, the ladies again embraced their female guests ; and Dona Juana said to me, " Seiior Don Francisco, ya sabe usted la casa, y es i la disposicion de usted." — "Don Francisco, now you know the house, and it is at your disposal." I thanked her, and said, I should take great pleasure in repeat- ing my visit. " Cuando guste usted Caballero." "When you please, Cavalier," she replied, and turned to my friend Don Samuel, and said, "no olvide usted la noche de Domingo, y diga k su amigo, que vengatambien." — "Dont forget, Sunday night, and tell your friend to come also !" Such are, generally, the events and ceremonies of a first visit on a week day evening. It will be observed, that I was intro- duced as a friend, without my name being mentioned, nor was any other than my Christian name asked, until my third or fourth visit. After that the flowers are not given, unless other strangers be present, when the old acquaintances also receive the compliment, in common with the rest of the company. There is something so very amiable in the character of the Chilenas, that it is almost impossible not to be pleased in their society. Foreigners who are unable to speak Spanish well, are always treated with the greatest indulgence, as respects errors NOTICES OP CHILE. 99 of speech, and always receive encouragement from the ladies; they anticipate a part of the sentence, when they observe the speaker embarrassed, but never in such a way as to make him feel that it is for correction ; — then they are so patient, and speak so slowly for him, and never laugh, or even smile, at his most ludicrous mistakes. I will observe here, that the best way to learn to speak Spanish, is first to become thoroughly acquainted with the conjugation of the verbs, then visit the la- dies, and talk, right or wrong — " Thus Juan learn'd his alpha beta better From Haidee's glance, than any graven letter." I think Lord Byron good authority for this at least. The gram- matical construction of the language may be studied with more advantage, after the student is able to speak it, than before. My second visit to Dona Juana, was between the hours of twelve and one o'clock in the day. I found two of the young ladies seated at their frames, embroidering shawls, in very beautiful patterns. They wore the shawl, and the hair was braided and hanging down the back. Dona Carmencita was sitting on the sofa, db la Turque, with a book in her lap, and stooping forward, in such a way that her hair, which was loose and wet, formed a complete veil for her face. On my entrance, she laid her hair behind her ears, and closed her book. Her sis- ters pushed aside their work, and adjusted their shawls and dresses. The shawl of a Chilian belle is a most rebellious and troublesome article of dress, for it will be constantly slipping off the shoulder, and bo disclose a pretty neck and upper part of the bust, which the young ladies are ever anxious to conceal. La- dies never pursue their needle-work in the presence of stran- gers, or rather visiters, as it is considered impolite ; from this circumstance, foreigners have charged them with being idle. Yet when it is recollected that there are no mantua-makers in Chile, and that the ladies make their own dresses, they must be exonerated from that accusation. They are always neat in the decoration of their feet ; — silk stockings are universally worn. Dofia Carmencita apologized for the state of her parurey say- 100 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. ing that she had just been washing her hair in a solution or suds of <'quillai," and it had not yet dried. The "quillai" is the barK of the Quillaja Saponaria, Molina, a large tree growing at the foot of hills, and in the mountain valleys of Chile. When the bark is broken into small pieces, and infused in cold water, it forms a suds similar to that of soap. With this, the ladies of Chile are in the habit of washing their heads, once in about ten days ; they say it preserves the scalp from dandruff; it certainly gives the hair a very clean, glossy ap- pearance. Besides, it is also useful for cleansing cloths, silks, and crapes, from grease, without injuring either their texture or color, and is sometimes used as a medicine. The ladies were very conversable, and made many inquiries about the United States, the North American ladies, their amusements, dress, &c. They spoke of the Peruvian ladies as being distinguished for their intrigues and want of modesty, and as an illustration, Dona Juana related the following anec- dote. A Marquesa was walking towards her home one evening, concealed in the peculiar dress of the country, called " saya y manto," and was spoken to by an unknown young gentle- man in a cloak, who importuned her to go to a caffe and ac- cept of some refreshment. She finally consented. After partak- ing of ices, cakes, and costly wines, to an amount so great that she thought her beau would not have money enough in his purse to pay, she called the host aside, (whom she knew well,) and told him not to permit the gentleman to leave the house till he had paid, nor to accept from him any other pledge than his pantaloons ; for which service the landlord was to receive a douceur. The young gentleman's purse could not cover one half the amount of the charge, and mine host vowed that he must have the whole before he left. The young gentleman offered his watch in pledge, which was obstinately refused. The marquesa grew impatient at the delay, and urged her beau to make haste, or she would leave him. The landlord de- manded the pantaloons. The young gentleman was indignant, and referred the case to his fair enchantress, who, after some coaxing, persuaded him to yield his pantaloons, roll his cloak NOTICES OF CHILE. 101 about him, and accompany her home. He consented. She de- lighted the victim of her sport with her lively jeux (Pesprit, as they walked along, and at last ushered him into a splendidly furnished room, occupied by a brilliant party of ladies and gentlemen. The youth would have escaped, but the fair one held him tight by the arm, and conducted him to a seat. He drew his cloak closer around him, and bent his feet under his chair. The marquesa introduced several of her female friends to him, after giving them a hint of her joke. The young ladies insisted that he must be very warm, but he thought it was cold ; — they urged him to dance, but he vowed he could not. At last the ladies, became rude, and, forcibly removing the cloak from the young cavalier's shoulders, exposed him to the whole company, standing in his drawers and boots ; after being heartily laughed at, he was turned out of doors! When Dona Carmencita told the story, 1 asked whether she believed it. She replied, laughing, "Qui6n sabe puez!" — Who knows then ! This expression is very constantly used by the Chilians, and the word puez is employed frequently without any meaning being attached to it. Puez Men, puez buenoy puez si, puez no, are universally used. Not unfrequently, when a pause occurs in company, the dead silence will be broken by some one exclaiming, with a sigh, ^' Puez si Senorl" which serves as a starting point for conversation. On a Sunday evening, I accompanied my friend, Don Samuel, " to assist" at the terttilia given weekly by Dona Juana. We found a number of ladies and gentlemen, old and young, pretty and plain, already assembled. The ladies were ranged, seated facing each other, in a long file, extending across the room, the appearance of which was much improved by the carpet being spread entirely over the "petdte," or mat. In the United States the carpets are always taken up for soirees or iertulias (preferring the latter word), when dancing forms a part of the amusement ; but here, on the contrary, they are always spread for that purpose, and kept rolled up to one side of the apart- ment at other times. Even at public balls, the dancing room is always carpeted ; the reason for this practice is that the floors are of tiles. 102 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. The gentlemen were slowly pacing the apartment, standing in squads of two or three, or conversing with the ladies ; and two or three were walking in the balcony, smoking " hojitas." The ladies, now laughing and talking, had thrown aside the shawl, and displayed the bust and figure, beautified by the aid of all the little machinery of a female toilette. In this particu- lar, they do not manifest less taste than the ladies of other countries, who pay a moderate respect to the great tyrant — Fashion. The Chilenas have been accused of using pink-sau- cers, and flake white,* yet, so far as my observation goes, I think most unjustly. I would not, however, defend every lady, in this or any other country, from the charge of using "afeites" — which word includes all those articles used for beautifying the face, as rouge, pearl powder, pink-saucers, flake white, moveable or extra curls, and the long list of cosmetics. I pre- sume, as a general rule, that female vanity, cxteris paribus y is nearly the same in all parts of the world. Where intellectual qualifications are esteemed superior to those of a personal kind, women of cultivated minds will scorn to attract the other sex by the means alluded to ; but can we blame those born where female excellence is estimated to consist of mere animaliti, for helping nature, when she has been sparing in bestowing personal beauties, by the use of those "afeites!" Tea, cofiee, &c. were served as with us, and afterwards one of the ladies took a seat at the piano. While she was preluding, a gentleman, styled " el bastondro" (who is some intimate, self-elected for the evening) cried out, <' Contradanza Se- nores" — Contradance, Gentlemen" — upon which intimation, they led forth their partners, and stood up in order. The mu- sic commenced ; the time, that of a slow waltz. That the grace and beauty of the "contradanza" may be appreciated, it must be seen ; the figures are so various, and some of them so intri- cate or labyrinth-like, that I will not attempt to describe them ; they exhibit what might be termed the very poetry of the Terpsichorean art. The contradance was followed by qua- drilles and waltzing. • Porter's Journal. — Basil Hall. NOTICES OF CHILE. 103 "Dulces" or sweetmeats of various kinds are served during the evening, in a manner that is peculiar (so far as I know) to the south-west coast of this continent. A large shallow dish of " dulces," placed on a silver salver with a number of small forks of the same metal, is offered round to the company, each lady conveying a morsel of the sweet to her mouth from the dish, by aid of a fork. The "dulce" is sometimes very little more consistent than thick syrup ; then, it is very adroitly twisted round the fork, and dexterously deposited in the mouth. Immediately after the salver of "dulces," follows one with goblets of water, which the Chilians invariably drink after eating sweets. On these occasions, a beau hands the glass to a belle in a gallant manner, holding his neat cambric hand- kerchief beneath it, that a drop may not fall upon the lady's dress. ' A few dances and a few songs, more "dulces," (and ices occasionally) bring the evening near its close. Then, if the party has been a merry one, the " Cuando," a dance peculiar to Chile, is performed. It is always accompanied by a song. It commences like the minuet, all the gestures being very graceful, and in time with the verses, which run thus ; ** Anda ingrata que algun dia Con las mudanzas del tlempo, Lloraras como yo Uoro — Sentiras como yo siento — Cuando ! cuando ! Cuando, ml-vida, cuando !" With these lines ends the minuet ; the allegro follows, and the step changes to a shuffle or quick beating of the feet, called "zapateando" or shoeing it, to the following lines, while one or two persons beat time with their palms upon the top of the piano ; — ** Cuando serd esa dia De aquella feliz manana Que nos lleven a los dos El chocolate k la cama. Cuando ! cuando ! Cuando, mi vida, cuando !" 104 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. With these lines, the figure changes from the minuet ; the dan- cers advance towards and retreat from each other, move round dos a dos, " zapateando" in time, waving their kerchiefs in the right hand, left arm akimbo, whole figure leaning forward, eyes and face cast down, till at last the gentleman, with a gal- lant coupi of the foot, seizes the lady's hand, dodges under her arm, and both gain their seats, amidst the plaudits of the company. <'Otra, otra," — Another, another, exclaim a dozen voices, and the floor is occupied by another couple, and the dance is again repeated. The andante verse of the song con- tains an accusation of ingratitude, and a prognostication that, in time, the lady will feel and weep as much as the gentleman (who sings) has felt and wept ; the allegro supposes a recon- ciliation, and is an exclamatory inquiry, " when shall be the nuptial day !" The following verses are sung as andante, with the same allegro given above. " Las durisimas cadenas Que mi triste cuerpo arrastra ; Puesto que por te las llevo. No pueden serme pesadas." Allegro. *• A me que huya los rigores, Conque procuras herirme! Yo no puedo existirme. Si piosigues en tas amoves !" Allegro. " Cuando, cuando, tengo pena. Me voy a la orilla de la mar, Y le pregunto a. las olas Mi amante me dejari !" Allegro. " Este hermoso ramill^te, Recibe antes que te partas, £n senal de mi memotia, Y en prenda de mi constancia !" Allegro. NOTICES OF CHILE. 105 The following stanzas are sometimes substituted both for allegro and andante : "Cuando, cuando, Cuando yo me muere No me lloren los parientes Lloren me las Alembiques Donde sacan aguardientes." Mlegro. " A la plata me remito, Lo demas es boberia, Andar con la boca seca E la barriga vacfa !" There is another dance, called "laperdiz," which some- times follows the " cuando," and occasionally takes its place. It is performed with the accompaniment of beating time with the palms, and singing the following verses to rather a lively air; " Hay ! de la perdiz, madre. Hay ! de la perdiz, , Que se la lleva, el gato, Y el gato — mis, mis — Ven aca, ven aca, mis, mis." The step is similar to that exhibited in the «' cuando." When the above lines are concluded, the dancers stand opposite to each other, and the lady repeats a stanza from memory, such as follows : " Tengo una escalerita, Llena de flores. Para subir al cieloj De mis amores.'** The chorus is then repeated with the dance and waving of the handkerchief. When it ceases, the gentleman is bound to re- * Thus rendered, literatim — , " I have a little ladder Full of flowers. To mount to the heaven Of my loves!" • , 14 106 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. ply to the lady in an appropriate stanza, from some of the poetsy or make one impromptu for the occasion. This alternate danc- ing and recitation, are continued till the lady has exhausted her memory, or till she has repeated six or eight stanzas. When the dancers possess humor or wit, as they frequently do, "la perdiz" becomes the source of great merriment and enjoyment. About eleven o'clock, the old ladies begin to embrace their friends, the young ones imitate them, and the "tertulia" is broken up. Nothing, in the way of evening party, can exceed the social cordiality, the freedom from restraint, and the gene- ral enjoyment, afforded at the "tertulias", and " reuniones" of Chile. The English-speaking foreigners, in Valparaiso, who pre- tend to be of substance, and somewhat aristocratical withal, have formed little coteries amongst themselves, and never ad- mit the Chilians into their society, except on some grand oc- casion, or unless the ladies are married to some Englishman or North American. All the English and American ladies here, are married ; therefore, the young men seek amusement in the society of the natives, at least till they acquire the lan- guage. Few of them are able to speak it on their arrival, and even after a long residence in the country, they rarely learn to speak well. The Germans and French possess an innate power, and naturally, more industry for acquiring languages, and perhaps greater facilities than others ; we generally find them speaking with grammatical propriety, and often with ele- gance, though not with the purity of accent often attained by the Americans and English. A difference of education and religion, a difference in the es- timate of pleasures and amusements, together with the inabili- ty to speak fluently the languages of each other, are sufficient reasons for the want of congeniality, observable between the foreign and Chilian ladies : and I have invariably remarked, that when they have met at petites soirees, the society has been under restraint, and hilarity repressed. This is particularly true of water parties, for which the Chil^nas have a great lik- ing, and which are most cheerful when entirely Chilian, or NOTICES OF CHILE. 107 North American and English. The foreign society, compared with the Chilian, is more intellectual — more conversational — more devoted to eating — while the Chilian is more musical — (not of the highest order, however) more chit-chatable — more flirtationable — and then they dance and glance ; — there is a sort of rivalship, too, between the qualities of the head and heels, for the face grows grave whenever the feet "move to measure." The Spanish society is more fitted to please and amuse naval officers during their short visits ; but, for a long sojourn, the English and North American, met with in Valpa- raiso, is preferable. Considering the discordant materials of which it is composed, the foreign society may be pronounced good. The English abroad, so far as I have seen, generally as- sume a higher stand than they have held or can hold at home ; and adopting the maxim of Hamlet — "assume a virtue, if you have it not," set up for distinction, and from their efforts to gain it, very often deserve it. North Americans are occasion- ally obnoxious to similar remarks. There is a jealousy between the two nations that sometimes peeps forth ; — in fact there is a disagreeable sort of surveillance, mutually exercised by the people of both sides of the water. CHAPTER III. Ride to Santiago— Mode of travelling — Peonada — The honey palm — Carretas — Mode of descending hills — Penuelas — Throwing the lazo — A bivouac — Casablanca — Posida — Mode of making butter — Bread — Cuesta de Zapita — Bustamente — Breakfast — Cuesta del Prado — A view — Entrance to Santiago — Custom house officers — Table of Barometric observations. Finding myself, towards the end of May 1832, in Valpa- raiso, with a few weeks leisure, and a friend about returning to his residence near Santiago, I determined to embrace the opportunity of paying a visit to the Capital of Chile. This is «ot the most favorable season for travelling, but inasmuch as 108 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. the rains had been backward, we anticipated that the roads would be good. The usual mode of travelling is in a gig. The vehicle used here, differs in nothing from that of the United States, except that the wheels are clumsy, and of a stronger construction. It frequently happens that the gig, from rough treatment, is sadly shattered, and in consequence, almost covered with thongs of hide, running in different directions, to keep it from tumbling to pieces. The one selected for our journey, had a neat green body, hung low, with a gilt wreath running round the panels ; the top was broad, and hung forward so much, that it afforded us ample protection both from sun and rain. The gear of the team is rather peculiar. The horse, placed in the shafts, is harnessed in the ordinary manner, with the exception of having a short leading rein, held by a postillion, who rides a horse attached on the left side by a swingle-tree. His saddle, like all those of the country, rises high before and behind, affording a secure seat, and is composed of several pieces ; first, a rough wooden tree is put on over two or three back-cloths, and then as many "pillons," or sheep skins dress- ed with the wool on, and dyed of various colors, are placed over it. The whole is secured by a girth, made of a dozen thin strips of hide worked into large rings at each end, and attached to the saddle by similar thongs. The stirrups are pyramidal shaped blocks of wood, carved in some curious pattern, and sometimes ornamented with plates of silver, having holes on one side to accommodate the feet. The reins are of plaited hide, terminating in a thong six or eight feet in length, which answers all the purposes of a whip. The bit is very powerful, and capable of controlling the most vicious horse. At the sad- jdle-bow is carried a long knife, used both for feeding and de- fence ; the "lazo," or noose of hide, without which the horse- man would be frequently at a loss, is carried behind. The pos- tillions wear straw hats, over Madras or silk handkerchiefs knotted about the head, the ends hanging down behind. A short jacket, coarse pantaloons, betas, great spurs, and the poncho, sometimes knotted carelessly round the waist, or hang- NOTICES OP CHILE. 109 ing unembarrassed over one shoulder, complete the travelling dress. One advantage of this mode of travelling, is that the travel- ler is free to choose his hour for setting out, as well as that for halting ; and as only two can ride together, he always has the privilege of selecting his travelling companion. In 1826, the gig, horses, &c, were hired to go from Valparaiso to Santiago for seventeen dollars ; owing to the increase of commerce, and the consequent necessity of more frequent communication be- tween the port and the capital, the price is reduced to ten. About one o'clock P. M., our " capatdz" (sort of prefect or overseer) brought the gig to the door ; and, having seen our trunks carefully lashed with thongs of hide to the sides of a pair of patient baggage mules, we mounted. While chatting with our friends, and giving occasional directions about the mules, our vehicle was well stowed with what are called "en- comiendas," or small packages, directed to various persons in Santiago. We were seated ; the postillion looked back, nodded his head, and said, interrogatively, "^yavamos, Senores?" — do we start now, gentlemen? We answered, "vamos." He bestowed his whip right and left, and we trotted off as fast as the many obstructions, from mules and carr6tas, crowded in the narrow street, would allow. On reaching the lower end of the Almendrdl, we met the second "peon,"* or postillion, with a troop of six or eight horses, destined as a relay upon the road. We halted ; the capitd,z came up with the mules, and drove them, as well as the extra horses, ahead. In the mean time, the second postillion hitched on to the vehicle, by a thong passing from the shaft to his saddle girth ; then both ap- plying whip and spur, we moved up the Altos de Valparaiso at a round trot, with three horses abreast. Domingo, the capatdz, had several new straw hats, which he was carrying to some of his friends ; they were placed one within the other, and then upon his own, forming a pyramid on his head. He had changed the pace of his stout, long bodied foorse, into a walk, when Domingo threw the rein behind him, • The word "peon" designates a laboring man. 110 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. and resting a hand on each thigh, allowed his person to move from side to side, with the alternate steps of the animal, as he preceded us up the alto. As the ascent grew more steep, our speed slackened, and the '' peon,'' named Pepe, drew forth an *' hojita," and having properly adjusted it, held it crosswise betwixt his lips, while he struck fire by the aid of a small horn of tinder, and in a little while, both Pepe, and Manuel the second peon, were quietly smoking. Pepe was a stout, well formed youth, about five feet six inches high, and perhaps twenty years old. He possessed an amiable though somewhat serious face, with good teeth, and a cheek like a dirty peach. He had a new gingham jacket, which he was desirous of protecting from the dust, and therefore tied two corners of a handkerchief under his chin, allowing it to hang down behind like a cloak. Manuel was perhaps younger, equally vigorous, but possessed of a most roguish countenance, though not less healthful than that of his companion ; in fact, he was a frolicksome looking youth, with well turned limbs. These two " peones" seemed to be the best friends in the world, and had I not inquired as to the fact, I should have thought they were brothers ; for during the whole journey, they were always ready to strike fire for each other, and per- form a thousand other little friendly ofiices. The " capatdz" was a man of about thirty, stout, well made, and six feet high. The " peones" obeyed his orders cheerfully, but never treated him with the deference that I have seen elsewhere observed by persons similarly related. These men were a fair specimen of what is termed the ''peondda," or laboring population of Chile. They were active, cheerful, and respectful, without being servile, and well calculated to be members of a free and independent republic. Those men who live as they do, are re- markable for the development of their lower limbs ; it is not unusual, in some parts of the country, to say, " Don tiene buena pierna" — such an one has a good leg ; meaning he is a good horseman. The summit of the Altos de Valparaiso is 1260 feet above the level of the sea.* Like all the high land round Valparaiso, • Miers. Travels in Chile. irOTICES OP CHILE. Ill it is chiefly composed of blocks of decomposing feldspar, cover- ed with a thin soil, scarcely sufficient to nourish the cactus plants, that stand on its most prominent points. The road has been cut into the solid rock in some places, with very considera- ble labor ; it mounts, in a zig-zag line, up one side of a deep quebrdda, at the bottom of which runs a pebbled brook. Though a considerable toll is levied for keeping it in repair, it is sadly out of order. Every laden mule entering into or going out of Valparaiso, pays a "medio"* (64 cents). This tax is sold yearly by the government, at auction ; the purchaser collects the toll, and the government engages to keep the road in good travelling condition. Yet in winter it is rarely travel- led in safety; for the rains of a single night swell the streams, and, carrying oflf the fragile bridges, render the road impassa- ble till the waters subside. In the winter of 1827, intercourse between Santiago and the Port was suspended, from this cause, for several days. In about an half hour we reached the top of the hill. Here, for a moment only, we had a magnificent view. The town lay almost beneath us, the bay spread its beautiful sheet of water before the eye, and the ocean expanded away till it met the sky and disappeared. Only one small sail, like a bright speck on the blue expanse, was seen approaching the harbor. * The coins of Chile are all of gold or silver. Banks and bank notes are un- known. /-Onza, equal to $17 25 \ Media Onza, do. J Doblon, do. 8 62i 4 3H V_ Escudo, do. 2 15i ' Peso, equal to $1 00 Dos reales, do. 25 Silver."^ Real, do. 12i Medio, do. 6i ^ Cuartillo, do- 3 The dollar is rare. The small pieces are irregularly clipped, and familiarly called " cut money." 112 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. From rough, the road now became smooth ; the south wind swept fresh and cool across it. Pepe untied the poncho from his middle, and thrusting his head through its centre, concealed the upper part of his figure in its drapery. Manuel cast off the trace from his saddle girth, and went avvay with the capataz. Pep6 put spurs, lashed his heavy whip right and left, and made a cheering noise to the animals. They pricked up their ears; the one in the shafts set off in a rapid trot, while that on which the postillion rode advanced in a beautiful canter. Pepe sat like a part of the animal upon which he was, his poncho flap- ping, and the ends of the handkerchief round his head fluttering on the breeze. Quick motion is the most pleasant stimulant in the world, whether on shore or afloat. Pepe commenced a song in the nasal yet melancholy tone of the country, accom- panied by the jingle of his huge spurs and the rattling of the wheels over the hard dry ground. My companion, as well as myself, during the slow ascent of the hill, had sunk back, each into his corner; he enjoyed a sort of revery, enveloped in the smoke of a cigar which stole quietly upwards in a little blue stream from the corner of his mouth, while I watched the horses' heads as they alternately nodded up and down ; for I found nothing to look at but the ascent before us. We now both roused up, and looked back at the bay and the ocean, and then forward. The country, as far as the eye could reach, was uncultivated, barren, and irregular. We saw now and then a solitary palm tree waving its beautiful green head on the breeze. Our horses, mules, and capatdz had disappeared in some of the gullies or by-roads. This palm is very valuable, supplying a substitute for honey in a country where there are no bees. It grows from forty to fifty feet high ; the limbs all spring upwards from the top, and falling over, form a graceful round head. The fruit is in every respect like the cocoa-nut, except that it is not larger than a walnut. At particular seasons the trunk is bored, and the sap, b)'^ evaporation, forms a honey, which, distilled, yields an intoxicating liquor, called "guarape," much prized by the lower classes. The annual produce of a single tree is estimated to be worth ten dollars. NOTICES OF CHILE. 113 When descending the hill to Pefiuelas, we overtook three large "carretas," on their way to the capital. The carr6ta or cart is a most clumsy, unwieldy kind of vehicle. The wheels are about ten feet high, bound with a huge wooden tire, the fellies of which are applied in such a way that the joints fall between those of the wheel-fellies ; the whole being secured with wooden pins, gives strength to the structure. The hubs are simply blocks, or rather sections of the trunk of a tree, with a hole burnt through the centre for the axle, which is never greased, because, it is said, the squeaking noise caused by the friction of the dry wood, served to waken the drowsy custom house officers, stationed on the road during the Spanish re- gime; and now the oxen have become so accustomed to the sound, that they are unwilling to move without it. The body of the cart is fourteen or fifteen feet long^ by six Dr seven broad, covered over with an arching canopy, made of canes or wattled straw, having small square holes cut in the sides as look-out places, while the front and rear are left open. It is drawn by from four to six oxen, yoked by the horns, the first pair of which support the tongue of the carreta. The driver, or capatdz, wears a cone shaped hat, poncho, and a pair of bragas, sustained above the loins by a sash; they fall a little below the knee, and, being cut straight, the inner seam ap- plies itself close to the leg, while the outer one stands afar off. The legs are bare ; the feet are protected by sandals of untanned leather, or shoes made somewhat after the fashion of the moc- casin of the North American Indian. He is armed with a pole, ten or twelve feet long, pointed with a nail or piece of sharp iron, with which he guidfes his cattle ; each one of the team has a name, and if not obedient, when called, is made to feel the point of the goad. The carretas we came up with, were laden with bales and packages ; carrying also on top, bales of straw, (not chopped, but broken by the fashion of treading out the grain by mares, instead of thrashing it), for the provender of the journey, which extends from six to ten days, according to the state of the roads. The teamsters were walking near the carr6tas, guiding them down hill ; to prevent a too rapid descent, a yoke of oxen was 15 114 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. attached, by a hide rope, to the tail of each cart. The animals understood their duties well ; for they placed their feet in ad- vance, and unwillingly yielded the ground, as they were drag- ged forward by the horns, thus answering all the purposes to the carr^ta, which a kedge anchor does to a ship moving in a tideway — that is, retard the progress. While we were looking at the carr6tas, Domingo and Manuel came up with the mules and horses. Manuel passed his " lazo" round the centre of the axle of the gig, and fastening it to his saddle girth, reined in his horse behind us, and we followed down the hill, kedging in the same style as the carr6tas. When near the " ranchos," or huts, which form the "pueblo," or town, two or three bare headed, half naked children, ran along beside us, holding out flowers, and crying, "toma, Senores; un real" — " take (them), gentlemen ; a real." Though it was rather cool, the present of flowers was romantic enough ; but the call for the real, reminded me of one of the letters of Miss Biddy Fudge : " This is all that's occurr'd sentimental as yet ; Except, indeed, some little flower nymphs we've met. Who disturb one's romance with pecuniary views, Flinging flowers in your path, and then bawling for sous /" The post of Penuelas is three leagues from Valparaiso, and nine hundred and forty-one feet above the level of the sea. Here there is an inn, at which many, who ride thus far for pleasure, stop. Here we found a table spread with cold corned beef, ham, tongue, &c., and a half dozen English midshipmen, from one of the men-of-war in the harbor, amusing themselves by endeavoring to throw the "lazo." Their frequent failures served to set ofi'the dexterity with which our " peones" caught the horses, which were to relieve those ridden thus far. The " lazo" is a hide rope, ten or twelve yards long, with a running noose at one end, which is opened, when used, for about a yard j the coil is held in the left hand, while the right keeps the noose in a circular motion over the head ; when fairly spread, it is thrown with unerring aim, and lodges over the neck of the animal to be taken. The moment the " lazo" encircles his NOTICES OF CHILE. 115 neck, the horse, that before was so shy as to render approach- ing; him impossible, becomes completely docile. Having changed horses, we again took our seats, and con- tinued on, rising and descending hills, for three leagues, over a very irregular, barren country. This distance brought us to the Tablas or plains. The sun had sunk, and left the sky bril- liant in stars and azure. The atmosphere in Chile, during the winter, is clearer than in any part of the world, and the splen- dor of the moonlight nights, cannot be exceeded any where. At a short distance before us, we saw a light, and on draw- ing near, perceived that it proceeded from a fire in the midst of three or four carretas, which had halted for the night. We again alighted to change horses. As far as the eye could see over the plain, we could discern no house. The fire was sur- rounded by the carret6ros, or teamsters; some were seated on the ground, with their feet drawn up, and their hands locked in front of their knees ; some were standing with arms folded ; others reclined upon an elbow, gazing at the burning faggots, and others again were moving about, silently arranging the provender for the cattle. The bales of straw had been brought from the carretas, and the oxen stood peacefully chewing the cud, having satisfied their appetite on this meagre fare. Small earthen pans, or "ollas," placed on tripods of stones, were stewing and sending forth a savory smell of garlic, and two or three pieces of "charqui," or jerked beef, were broiling on the coals. As we drew near to enjoy the benefit of the fire — for the air had grown chill as November, several dogs made a furious attack upon us, but were at once recalled by an authori- tative voice ; "Ay ! perro, ush — perro — grandisima *****!" The last superlative epithet (which would soil our page) being followed by a stone, the curs slunk away, and laid down under the carts. So soon as the uproar subsided, they said, " pasan ustedes adeldnte, Senores ; hace frio" — pass forward, gentlemen, it is cold." We found comfortable seats on the tongue of one of the carr6tas, at once lighted our cigars, and took part in the con- versation. These " peones" were lamenting the want of rain, and drew a most gloomy picture of the state of the country. « The flocks and herds," said they, " are perishing in every 116 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. direction, for want of fodder — our mules and oxen are growing leaner and leaner every day — straw is dear, and we must lay up for the season, to give our cattle an opportunity to fatten !" The glare from the fire presented the group in strong relief; their brown ponchos and bragas, sun-burnt faces, and bare legs, gave them a wild appearance, that might have induced one to mistake the scene for a bivouac of banditti. In a few minutes, our capatdz cried, << ya estamos, Senores" — we are ready, Sirs. We again mounted, and, having first rolled our cloaks around us, each settled into his own corner. As it was growing late, Manuel hitched his beast on the right; and while the horse in the shafts trotted at a rapid rate, those under the saddle went at a hand gallop. The road was now hard, smooth, and perfectly level. By the light of the stars, we could perceive that the; capatdz kept the relief horses and mules trotting on ahead. For the greater part of the way, Pepe and Manuel relieved each other in low, plaintive ditties, which were unintelligible to us on account of the rattling of the wheels, the pattering of hoofs, and the jingle of spurs. Whenever we passed a bivouac, such as above described, Ma- nuel always hailed with the greatest good humor, and was al- ways answered in some gay saying. In this manner we rode four leagues, which brought us to the "pueblo" of Casablanca, through the street of which we drove at a round rate, amidst the uproar of barking dogs. As we passed the houses, we saw, through the wide-open doors, by the dim light of a tallow candle burning in each, the figures of men and women rolled in ponchos and shawls, sauntering about the rooms. Not an individual was induced by curiosity to come to the street to gape at our noisy party, as, I think, would have been the case in the small villages of some of the "Immortal States." A little after eight o'clock we alighted in the court yard of a "posdda," or tavern, kept by an Italian named Feroni, which has the reputation of being the best in the place. Feroni was a polite, tall, well made man, with an aquiline nose, black whiskers, and large black eyes. His language was a sort of jumble of Italian and Spanish, with an occasional dash of NOTICES OF CHILE. 117 . French. He ushered us into a travellers' room on one side of an inner " patio" or court, where we found three gentlemen voyageurs. One a huge Frenchman, as corpulent as Daniel Lambert was wont to be represented on our copy-books, in by-gOne days; another was a tall, almost bone-bare Spaniard, with an immense nose and a squeaking voice, and the third, a young Chileno of pleasing manners. An oblong table stood in the centre of the room, leaving space on each side for chairs, and servants to pass, covered with a cloth, stained with red wine, and scattered with crumbs, informing us that the party had just supped. At one end of the apartment stood a long settee, which filled the space between the side walls ; at the other was the entrance, and a small table with glasses and bottles. The Frenchman sat at one end of the settee, picking his teeth with a fork, while the old Spaniard lolled at the other, smoking an "hoja" cigar; both were listening to the little Chil6no, who was walking up and down, puffing at intervals, when we entered. The party saluted us very politely, asked us to be seated, and then the Chileno continued his recital. Feroni inquired, "Cavaliere, que quieren ustedes cenar?" — meaning. Gentlemen, on what will you sup? Having ascer- tained our wishes on that head, he retired, and brought in a large copper pan of well burnt charcoal, which was quite wel- come to our benumbed fingers and toes. After the fire had infused a little suppleness into my limbs, I walked forth to survey the premises while our supper was preparing. The house is one story high, built around a *' pa- tio" or court yard, into which open several small sleeping rooms, the travellers' room, a passage to the kitchen, and an- other to the stable yard. Two small rooms in front are occu- pied by Feroni, Madam Feroni, and all the little Feronis. I found the family seated on mats around a "brazero" of coals prattling, while the mother, squatted on the ground, was sew- ing by the light of a tallow candle supported on a very low ta- ble before her. The children, though barefoot, were otherwise warmly clothed. The furniture of the room was complete in a few old stamped leather back chairs, and a bed which seemed 118 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. to be the common receptacle for cast off ponchos, shawls, caps, &c. To the right of this family apartment was another, of about the same dimensions, in which Feroni had a small dirty- table, with pen, ink, and paper. In one corner was a bed, in another a half dozen skins of butter, and over head a quantity of Bologna sausages, of no mean excellence, were hanging from the naked beams. This, it will be seen, was the office or sanc- tum of our Boniface. In Chile, butter is packed in sheep skins with the wool side out, and would be very good, in spite of appearances, were it not so much salted. The operation of churning is performed by a donkey ; the cream is put into large gourds or dry skins, placed on his back, and then the animal is kept trotting round the yard till the butter is made. In this art they seem not to have advanced a single step since its discovery ; for we are told, that a countryman somewhere lost a large jug of cream by car- rying it for a distance on a hard trotting horse, which acci- dent led to the important invention of churns and butter. A friend told me, that he had presented, some years ago, a Yan- kee churn to a family residing near the capital, and taught them to use it. So long as it was a novelty they were pleased, but at the end of a few weeks they decided that the donkey made butter just as well, and consequently threw it aside ! Casablanca is situated in the midst of a vast plain, which is well irrigated, and produces quantities of wheat, butter, cheese, apples, peaches, pears, &c. It is ten leagues from Valparaiso, and consists of two long streets which meet at right angles ; in the elbow thus formed stand the church and the curate's dwell- ing, which opens on a grass plot in front. The houses are mostly one story high, built of " adobes" or sun-dried bricks, and roofed with red tiles. The population does not exceed one thousand souls. Half an hour after our arrival, Feroni announced supper, which consisted of roasted lamb, eggs, tea, bread, and excel- lent butter. The bread in Chile is made with a small addition of lard or <* There is a fine wharf or mole, nearly completed, provided ^ with cranes and landing slips for the convenience of vessels in -^ the harbor. Its foundation is the ruined hulk of an old sloop of war, around which piles have been driven ; these are filled in with stone, brought from San Lorenzo, where it is quarried and broken by convicts. * Noticias Secretas de America. 24 186 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. The main street, following the course of the beach, is about a quarter of a mile long, and has been lately paved. The houses are built of " adobes," with a second story made of cane wick- er work, plastered with mud, and whitewashed. The roofs are all flat; also of wicker work, and plastered with mud. These are kept clean in some instances as promenades, but more fre- quently become receptacles for all kinds of family refuse. This light architecture is used, because it is less expensive, and less dangerous during earthquakes. At the northern end of the street are a number of huts, constructed of mats, tenanted by fishermen, who supply the markets of Callao and Lima with fish ; this part of the town is called the pescadores. Along this street are many stores, billiard rooms, pulperias, or tippling shops, which are rendezvous for idle sailors, negroes, and the lowest order of the population. These places are the scenes of all manner of vice ; gambling, drunkenness, and the natural consequents, quarrels, and sometimes even murder. At night the sounds of bacchanalian mirth, and drunken uproar, are heard till a very late hour. To the eastward several streets have lately sprung up. The houses are small, but comparative- ly commodious ; at almost every door is tied by a leg, a game cock or two, crowing and scratching all day long; — fighting cocks is a very favorite and general amusement with all the in- habitants. The market place consists of an open square, in which are ' erected a few booths for butcher's meat and vegetables. The market women, mostly Indians and mulattoes, spread out their fruits and vegetables on mats or ponchos, on the ground, and separate them into little parcels, worth a real each. Potatoes are sold at from three to eight for a real j* eggs at from three • Coins of Peru. r Onza, equal to $17 00 I Media Onza, do. 8 50 Gold.-^ Doblon, do. 4 25 I Escudo, do. 2 12^ t Escudillo, do. 1 NOTICES OP PERU. 187 to six; tomatoes and beans are measured in gourd dishes of an arbitrary size, according to the views of the venders. For once the scene is amusing ; frequently the market women have their young children slung in the shawl or poncho, on the back, while seated flat on the ground, with one foot resting beneath the ham of the other leg, which is extended, and bare nearly to the knee. The hair is worn in three long braids, hanging down behind. The heaps of fruit of every kind are sometimes so numerous, and disposed so irregularl)'^ over the ground, that it requires care in wending the way, not to stumble into a heap of eggs, or a basket of cherimoyas. A constant talking, carried on in long, drawling, nasal tones, seems to indicate an amiable docility, though they are generally alive to their own interests, and not unfrequently sell articles for less than one half of the price first demanded. Several kinds of excellent fish are sold in this market ; the corvina, the flounder, and the pampano, are best; the latter, caught only at Chorillos, is not always to be obtained, and is so highly esteemed, that one weighing eight or ten pounds, readily commands five or six dollars. The beef possesses more flavor, and is perhaps better than at any other place on the coast. The mutton is excellent. Poultry is dear, and with the exception of ducks, is very inferior in flavor. The purlieus of the plaza are peopled with dogs and buzzards, that hover round to pick up whatever falls in their way. Bul- locks are slaughtered in the open road, just outside of the town, and the meat, after being dressed, is brought to the shambles on jackasses, or in carts. Along the eastern side of Callao, is a "tapia" (mud wall), for- merly used as a defence, but now entirely abandoned. A canal, running along side of the Lima road, supplies the place, as well as the shipping, with water ; for the latter, it is brought to the ' Peso, equal to $1 00 Dos reales, do. 25 Real, do. m Medio, do. 6k _ Cuartillo, do. 3 Silver. < There is neither copper nor paper money in the Republic. 188 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC, mole in wooden conduits, where it is very readily filled into casks, without removing them from the boat. Just outside of the tapia is a sort of lock, where, from morning till night, are assembled negro and white women, washing linen by the pro- cess (not the most approved) of pounding it with stones, and spreading it out on the neighboring green. Horses are also carried there to drink and to be washed ; all of which, it is thought, does not impair the good qualities of the water for most domestic purposes. On working days and holy-days, Callao presents an active scene. During business hours, the basin, formed by the mole, is covered with launches and boats. The mole is piled up with boxes and bales of merchandise ; large heaps of wheat, some- times containing thousands of bushels ; mules and asses, loading and unloading ; merchants and clerks ; guards and custom house officers — all crowded upon it, each pushing and jostling his way, and overcoming all resistance. Amidst the trampled dust, no very idle part is enacted by the millions of fleas, on the feet and ankles of all who intrude upon them. A sentinel stands at the landing slip, opposite to which is a sort of sentry-box, where the officers of the guard lounge, and smoke paper cigars, through the twenty-four hours. At night the posts are increas- ed, and no person is permitted to land or embark after eight o'clock, without special permission from the captain of the port. The street presents negroes in dirty, tattered ponchos, slouch- ed straw hats, bragas, or large bottomed breeches, bare legs, and raw hide sandals on the feet. The women ride astride, and display a superior knowledge of horsemanship. The men wear short jackets, and are constantly smoking cigars ; officers of the garrison, in gay uniforms, saunter about on foot, or are seen on splendid steeds, handsomely caparisoned, curvetting and caracoling through the streets. The appearance of Callao is by no means favorable, and no one would ever suspect its being other than a very disagreea- ble place. Strangers generally dislike it very much, which is not surprising, for there is little or no society to be found, except in the summer, when a few families resort thither for the pur- pose of sea bathing, of which the Peruvians are passionately NOTICES OP PERF. 189 fond. At that time terttilias are formed, generally ending in gambling parties, in which ladies and gentlemen promiscuously engage. Foreigners amuse themselves in walking, playing bil- liards, or bowles, for which there are several alleys. The site of old Callao, which is between Castle Independence and the south battery, is, like Golgotha, a place of skulls and human bones. The vaulted roofs of some of the churches still remain, and are on a level with the surface. Into these all the bodies of those who died during the siege and blockade of 1825, were thrown, without changing the dress in which they expired or were killed. Many of the bodies are shrivelled and dried, but show no sign of putrefaction having taken place. Here were buried the family of Torre Tagle, Marquis of Truxillo, who perished in the castle, with many others, from famine. Provisions became so scarce towards the close of the siege, that the marquis, it is said, gave a jewel, worth jg 30,000, for a single chicken ! The bones now seen, are of those who pe- rished at that time, and were not washed out by the sea, as has been suggested, for it rarely reaches where they are.* About the year 1650, Callao contained six hundred Spanish families, besides Indians, Mestizos, Mulattoes and Negroes ; also four convents, viz., Santo Domingo, San Francisco, San Augustin, La Merced, and a house of Jesuits.! • Morrel's Voyages. f Albores del Sol del Nuevo Mundo. / 190 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. CHAPTER II. Ride to Lima — The Road — Monument — Bellavista — Treasure — Church of Palms — Market women — Sambo de la Legua — Church — Negroes dancing — Mules and asses — Alameda de la Portada — Meet a pleasure party — Lima gate — Entrance to the city — Animas — First view of " the street of Callao.'* The road to Lima is nearly a straight line, drawn over an inclined plane, which gradually rises from the sea, till it is lost in the base of the hills of Amancaes and San Cristoval. Though to the eye the road from Callao appears to be perfectly level, the great plaza of Lima stands one hundred and seventy varas (Spanish yards)* above the sea. It was constructed by the vice- roy, Don Ambrosio O'Higgins, in 1799, and had the original plan been carried out, would have rivaled any thing of the kind in South America. A low brick wall or curb runs along each side of a centre road, whose surface is two or three feet above carriage roads, which are on either side. This arrangement is not complete through the whole extent, but is interrupted, and a part of the distance is travelled on the lateral roads, which, I believe, were originally designed to be the beds of streams. The greater part of the way is covered with loose pebbles, giving it no very distant resemblance to a shingle beach. I joined a party on horseback, soon after arriving in the roads — sorry stumbling nags we found — and set off in the morning for the capital, far farmed once as " City of Kings," afterwards as '' City of the Free," but still more widely known by the original name, Lima. We were soon out of Callao, and found the road running in a straight line ; and on the right and behind us, when fairly on the way, was the gate and draw- bridge of El Castillo de la Independencia. Curiosity carried our eyes in every direction. To the right, all round the castle to the sea, was an irregular shingle, and to the left, a broad, green meadow, covered with rank grass, spread itself to the view. Just at the skirts of Callao, and at the beginning of the * Equal to 32 English inches. NOTICES OP PERU. 191 road, were planted two or three posts, around which were offal and a number of dogs, with other appearances marking the spot where beef is slaughtered for the market. After we had passed the women washing at the lock of the canal, the first figures we saw were two soldiers on foot, mak- ing their way towards Callao. They wore tall, compressed, blue cloth caps, with red bands and without vizier, coarse gray pantaloons, made full, resembling the dress worn in some of our state prisons, and short blue jackets. Their complexion was dark mulatto. They trudged along the canal, barefoot, with a bundle hanging on a stick over the shoulder, appearing like men fatigued from a long march. The next object that engaged our attention was a cross, erected on a square pedestal, to the right of the road, and about half way between Bellavista and Callao, which is said to mark the spot where the sea reach- ed in the great earthquake of 1 746 ; and some add, that a fri- gate was thrown there at the time by the force of the waves. A few years since, Bellavista was a flourishing village. It was built in 1747, and intended to be the port, but in the course of time, the terror caused by the great earthquake wore away, and the present Callao grew up. This checked the improve- ment of Bellavista. Frequent earthquakes, the bombardings from the castle, its alternate possession by the royalist and pa- triot troops, during the war of the revolution, have left it a heap of ruins, which shelter some few Indian and negro fa- milies. Between Bellavista and the cross just mentioned, are the remains of a breast work, thrown up and defended by the patriots when General Rodil was in possession of the castles. Presently we met a drove of mules, laden with silver, and guarded by a half dozen soldiers — some of African, and others of Indian origin. This treasure, amounting to eighty thousand dollars, was about being shipped to England. Close after them came a troop of asses, almost completely hidden in stacks of green alfalfa* — a species of trefoil highly nutritious to horses — aptly enough compared to the moving of « Birnam wood." On the left, we came up to La Iglesia de las Palmas — the * Mendicago satwa of botanists. 192 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. church of Palms, or Baquijano, which, in 1825, served as an ambush for the patriots in a sharp skirmish with a royal party from the castles. On that day, from Lima gates to Callao, the road was strewed with dead. The cruel Rodil would not con- sent to the bodies being buried — they laid there till the buz- zards and vultures removed them ! A party of market people, closely followed by one of plea- sure, passed us. The market women were mounted on asses, with saddles made high and square on top, with pillions of sheep skins, tanned with the wool on. The samba women were seated astride, presenting, from the great breadth of the saddle, a most grotesque appearance. The well expanded leg, cased in a silk stocking, was visible to the knee. The foot, set off in a green or particolored slipper, and armed with a great spur, was constantly swung with a careless air against the sides of the patient donkey. A figured calico gown, and a large cotton shawl, with the right corner flung over the left shoulder, and a high crowned Guayaquil hat, tied under the chin with a black ribbon, the rim being left free, completed the costume. Some had large panniers of fruit slung to the sides of their beasts, and others had two sheep ready for the market, tied together by the hind legs, hung over the saddle bow. Some had their infant children with them, suspended over the back in a shawl or poncho. These women were mostly embonpoint, or even corpulent, with round, shining faces and placid countenances. The pleasure party was also of the sambo caste. The wo- men were laughing, and prancing along on spirited horses, ac- companied by sambos and negroes. The females were dressed in white gowns, white ponchos, Manila hats, highly glazed and decorated, with a bow and band of black ribbon, secured under the chin, (the rim floating free), silk hose, gay colored slippers and spurs. The hair was frizzed over the shoulders, and thickly sprinkled with jasmine flowers. They sat astride, and managed their horses admirably. The beaux also wore Manila hats, white ponchos, and white jean pantaloons. Their heavy spurs, with rowels not less than two inches in diameter, were supported by a leathern heel piece. At a distance it was difficult to distinguish the women from the men, and when near. NOTICES OP PERU. 1§3 nothing but the bare leg of the female pointed out the differ- ence of sex ! We had scarcely passed this party, when an officer and two soldiers shot by us in full gallop for Lima. We learned after- wards, that it was a lieutenant, bearing an ordinary despatch from Callao to the government. We stopped at the half way house, and indeed our horses were so accustomed to halt there, that they trotted up to the shed of their own free will. The "tambo de la Legua" is a pulperla at which most travellers rest for a few minutes. Be- side it stands a church, called La Legua, (hence the name of the tambo), at the door of which was an image of the Virgin, standing on a table, with a crucifix and a silver plate before it, half full of " reales" and "medios.'^ A friar, in a coarse tunic, with a long beard and shaven crown, stood near, begging alms for " la santisima Virgen" — the most holy Virgin, and extend- ing the crucifix to be kissed by all those who bestowed charity in the silver plate. The tambo is a low, one story building, bearing the marks of great age ; the large opening in front, like a huge window, from which liquors and cigars are dispensed at low prices, is worn by the frequent handling of customers. On the counter, which may be compared to a broad window sill, there are always burning two or three knots of wood for the convenience of lighting cigars. The roof extends out in front, affording an ample shade for those who stop to partake of the " good things" provided. On either side of this shed is a low adobe seat, for the accommodation of foot passengers. No customer ever enters the door — a wise precaution against the inebriated, who are not to be trusted amongst bottles and glasses. The scene at the tambo was curiously contrasted with the religiously grave friar and holy Virgin. Though not twenty yards apart, there was a party of negroes, men and women, with scarcely tatters enough to hide their nakedness, wriggling fandangos under the shed, to the music of a rude harp, played by an old, frosty headed negro, accompanied by the nasal, twanging voices of black wenches, who also beat time with* their palms on the body of the instrument. Both men and 25 194 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. women were bare legged to the knee. The former wore large, full bottomed bragas, or breeches, and long woollen ponchos, ,with tall, sugar-loaf-crowned, Guayaquil hats. Their legs were of the true negro formation ; the calf gathered up close to the knee, and a long, slim shank, attached to a broad, flat foot, with the heels extending almost as far behind as the toes did forward. The women had on ragged woollen petticoats, plaited full round the waist ; the bust was but illy concealed in a dingy chemise ; the arms were bare ; a handkerchief or shawl was girt around the hips, so as to draw the petticoat smooth over the abdomen, and gather it up full behind, and shorten it withal. The hands were sometimes akimbo, sometimes flung in the air, and the figures leaned forward as they advanced and retreated in the dance. The step was an awkward movement of quickly cross- ing one foot over the other in front, without lifting it high from the ground, only varied by an occasional hop, and accom- panied by an indescribable wriggling of the hips. The dance was disgustingly lascivious, and the voices of the females coarse and disagreeable. The whole party were excited by frequent potations of pisco and chicha. There were two Peruvian officers, of high rank, smoking, and looking on the dance with great gravity. Their gorge- ous uniforms, almost hidden in gold embroidery, contrasted strangely with the squalid garments of the merry negroes. Two or three asses, with serious faces, stood gazing quietly on the scene. One water carrier leaned his head on his arms, which were embracing the saddle bow of his donkey, with a leg crossed and resting on the ground. His countenance was distorted by a broad smile of approbation, that seemed to be generating at the very bottom of his heart The steeds of the officers looked impatient, neighed, pawed the earth, and threw up their heads. Before we left the tambo, two stage coaches drove up ; one from Lima, the other from Callao. Both were filled with fo- reigners, and one was completely shrouded in tobacco smoke. Smoking in Peru is universal ; even ladies of the better classes ire not exempt from this practice. • After ten minutes' rest, we again mounted, and pushed on NOTICES OP PERTT. 195 towards the capital. Parties similar to those we had met, passed us, with now and then a " valencin," which is a two wheeled carriage, drawn by two mules abreast, on one of which a postil- lion rides. When new and in fine order, this vehicle is a calesa ; but worn for some time, it degenerates into a "valencin," as private carriages, in the course of time, dwindle into hackney coaches in the United States. We overtook a drove of asses, laden with kegs. Two were too much for a single ass, so that a large stone was slung on one side to balance the keg on the other. This plan is not unfrequently adopted by the "arrieros," or muleteers, when the packages are too large to be carried in pairs by a mule or donkey. Mules generally carry two barrels of flour at a load, from Callao to Lima, a distance of seven miles, over a stony road. To the right and left of the road are seen large mounds of earth, termed Huacas, which are the remaining monuments of the ancient Peruvians. Until it approaches within a quarter of a mile of the city gate, the Lima road is an unpleasant one. To the right it is flanked by high mud walls, and on the left is a meadow overgrown in places with cane brakes, which, some years ago, were the ambuscades of highwaymen. Near the metropolis, the country assumes a more smiling aspect. The dusty highway becomes an avenue of double rows of wil- low trees, with bubbling streams running on either hand. Stone seats are conveniently placed beneath their shade in the side alleys, which are lower than the main road. On each side the garden walls are overhung by orange, lemon, citron, and palta trees ; — the air is redolent with the odors of the cherimoya and orange ; its stillness, even at noon, is broken by the various notes of the feathered tribes. Large circles are placed equidistant on the road, to the number of four, called "6valos," designated as first, second, &c., beginning at the gate. The road cuts them diametrically, leaving a semicircle on each side, surrounded by a stone seat. The round base of stone in the centre of each " &valo,'' was intended to be a foun- tain. This avenue is called, "La Alameda de la Portada.'* Here, morning and evening, are seen people enjoying the " paseo ;" civilians and military men ; churchmen and laymen. 196 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. and women of every caste and rank in society. But it is sel- dom crowded, except on feast days. When we passed, we only saw a Franciscan friar, strolling along, in conversation with a negro woman, carrying a basket of oranges on her head. Not far from the gate, we met a group of natives on horse- back. The gentlemen were in short white jackets, full white pantaloons, the ponchos hanging carelessly over one arm, Ma- nila hats, fastened with black ties under the chin, and the heels armed with long shanked silver spurs. The horses of all were caparisoned strictly after the fashion of the country. The sad- dle rises high before and behind, and is covered with blue pil- lions, secured by girths, forming a deep seat, from which it is difficult to be thrown, because the front corners of the saddle curve backwards over the thighs, forming for them a complete case. The stirrups are of pyramidal blocks of dark, wood, carved in various figures, and the corners are covered with plates of silver. In one side a hole is scooped out to receive the foot. A broad piece of leather, cut into a sort of filigree figures, extends from the back of the saddle to the tail, and a similar piece passes round the hams and flank, which gives to this furniture the appearance of that of a coach horse. The whole is ornamented with silver buckles and rings, and the head piece with a profusion of studs of the same metal. The ladies, who were of the middle age, sat straight in their sad- dles, which were in all respects like those of the men, except that the stirrups were silver, and the reins were of a finer tex- ture. They wore full ponchos, which covered the upper part of the figure ; that of the youngest, who was perhaps twenty years of age, was striped in a flowered pattern of gay colors. The hair hung in braids down the back from under the Ma- nila hat, which sat square on the head. Fine white pantalets, fringed with lace at the bottom, a white silk sock and satin slipper, set ofi" a beautiful foot, armed with a golden spur. The party consisted of six persons. Their horses were spirited, and the ladies managed them with perfect skill, now checking, and touching them at the same time with the spur, causing the ani- mal to throw up his head proudly and dance off to one side ; now, giving rein and spur at the same time, dash off at a full NOTICES OF PERU. 197 gallop for a hundred yards, and then check him into a sudden halt. The men played off their steeds in the same manner, wheeling and caracoling about the ladies. The faces of all were animated by smiles and gay conversation. The females were brunettes, and seemed full of enjoyment. The party dashed by us at a full gallop, the long tails of their horses, and the ponchos and hair streaming behind them.* Such were the groups met with on the road, going in one direction or the other. Sometimes the whole road appeared choked with asses loaded with fresh cut grass. Again, a " re- cua,'' or drove of unladen mules, were urged on at a full gal- lop by the "arriero," sitting erect in his saddle, head up, poncho knotted round his waist, the reins of the mule held high over its head with the left hand, while with the right he whirled over his own head a long thong of hide. His legs, at every spring of the animal, struck the huge rowels into the mule's sides. As he sprang forward, wheeling from one side of the road to the other, to keep his mules together, he cried, ^' arre mula — grandisima * * * !" evincing, with the last re- proachful epithet, his impatience, by a heavy discharge of his thong on the back of the hindmost mule. Then away they scampered, the dry hide " capachos," or bags, lashed to the pack saddles, clattering at a great rate as they dashed along. Again, the asses presented a most grotesque appearance, piled up and almost concealed beneath baskets of poultry and fruit, or whole sheep dressed for the market. Then came an old, long backed "rocin," or hack, with three or four long legged, lean looking Indians seated on his back, from his neck to his tail. And certainly, the most ugly old woman I ever saw, was seated cross legged on the back of a donkey, and a little Indian riding behind her. • whether it is really more indelicate for a female than for a male to ride astride, I am not called upon to pronounce. At first, it does not square with our notions of propriety ; but on a closer examination, I could discover nothing im- modest in the appearance of a lady's foot and ankle, cased in a pantalette, nor did it seem more shocking than the tightly covered leg of the booted cavalier. One reason in favor of ladies riding after this fashion. Is that they are more secure in the saddle, and need less the assistance of an attendant caballero. 198 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC Now and then we saw a most amicable company of dogs and *' gallinazos," or buzzards, feasting on the carcass of a mule or ass, that had dropped down and died by the way. I have seen these birds attack the body of a mule before the breath had entirely left it, and in the course of a few hoars leave nothing but the skeleton ! They are the only scavengers in Peru. The law protects them from molestation ; a fine being imposed on any person who may wantonly kill one of the tribe. The entrance into Lima is through a huge gate. There is a large centre arch, and a smaller one on each side, which are closed at night with massy doors, correspondent to the arches in size. In 1825, some eulogistic sentences on Bolivar were written over the great entrance, but in 1827, the tide of popu- lar feeling having turned against him, his name was blotted out, and that of La Mar substituted ; the eulogy, however, remaining unchanged. In 1829, the popularity of this chief dwindled away, and his name and eulogy are now washed over with lime ; — sic transit gloria mundi. On the left side of the gate is a small building, occupied by the officers of the Resguardo — that department of the custom house which is constantly on the alert to detect and prevent illi- cit trade. Here, all baggage, and every package of goods, are examined, unless accompanied by a « guia," or permit, from the Aduana, or custom house. Here also a toll is collected for every laden mule or ass that passes to and from Lima. Two long mud walls stand on the sides of the street, or ra- ther avenue, which leads into the "City of the Free." At about a hundred yards from the gate, it terminates in a street, called "La calle del Callao." The first thing we remarked, was the mean appearance of the houses, and the heavy, closed balconies, jutting out in front. At the corners, are two rude wooden figures, painted red, placed about twelve feet above the ground, with a representation of flames curling round them. These half figures have the hands clasped in the attitude of prayer. They are termed "dnimas," or souls, and are intend- ed as mementos of the torments of purgatory. Similar figures are common in all parts of the city. On the dead wall of a NOTICES OP PERU. 199 house, not far from the commencement of this street, is a rough picture of the Devil carrying off the Saviour to the Mount. In spite of the "dnimas,"*the corner houses are occupied as grog shops, where there were a dozen negroes, men and wo- men, dancing fandangos, under the influence of pisco or Peru- vian brandy. And, as if to aid the Snimas in their pious inten- tion of rescuing the living from the pains of the damned, there was a friar, of the Order of Descalzos (Barefooted), in a sackcloth tunic and leather girdle, holding in one hand a tin box surmounted by a cross, having a slit in the top to receive any alms that might be bestowed, while in the other he held a long Staff. He was smiling on the scene before him ; the staff involuntarily kept time to the music. "The spirit seemed willing, but the flesh was weak. " As we proceeded along the street, for several cuddras, or squares, we saw many figures and customs which to us were entirely new. The flat roofs, the abrupt termination of the walls above, the faded green balconies, the great doorways and grated windows, and the dingy white, scaly walls, gave an im- pression of poverty and seclusion. The windows are large, and secured on the outside with vertical iron bars, placed about four inches asunder ; the lower part is shut on the inside with a close trellis, generally painted green. From the window projecting a few inches on the street, and the walls being very thick, the sill is broad. Behind the trellis, which hides the in- terior of the house from passers-by, we saw females seated on the broad sill, with their feet drawn up, and dresses loose, smoking cigars, and peeping into the street. The balconies were occupied by females similarly engaged. As we rode along, we met water carriers riding on donkeys, officers in gay uniforms, friars of several orders, women in saya y manto — in short, so many sights, new and strange to us, that the at- tention could not rest long enough on any one to register its peculiarities in the mind. We found comfortable lodgings, not far from the plaza, at a hotel kept by an obliging French woman. SOO THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. CHAPTER III. History of the founding of Lima. Every circumstance connected with the founding of a new empire is more or less interesting. It is curious to see the an- ticipations of greatness, displayed by the founders, in the care and exactness observed in the planting of great cities. FraN' CISCO iPizARRO, the conqueror of Peru, looked forward, no doubt, with feelings of exalted interest, to the day when "the City of Kings" should be as magnificent as its name portended. And when he traced the streets and squares of the metropolis of the empire he had won, he felt that his name would pass to future ages with that of the city he planned. Where the capital should be placed was a question not has- tily decided upon. Several situations were tried and aban- doned, for want of those conveniences and resources required by the inhabitants of a great city. In the j^ear 1533, the site of an Indian village called Jauja — anciently Xatjxa, which is about forty leagues east of Lima, was selected as the capital of conquered Peru. In the first few months, an university and several public institutions were founded. In order to have a sea port for this city, Pizarro despatched Don Nicolas de Ribera, as captain and lieutenant general, to take possession of Pachacamac in the name of the king, and to leave population enough on the coast to form a town. The execution of this order gave birth to the town of Sangallan, thirty-five leagues to the south of Lima, and near Canete. On the 29th of November 1534, the situation of Jauja having been found not adapted for the metropolis, an or- der was obtained, in consequence of a petition from the Ca- bildo and the Alcaldes, to move the city to Sangallan. At the expiration of ten or twelve days, they became dissatisfied with this change, and leaving thirty men in Sangallan, marched to the village of Pachacamac. Here they found some advantages NOTICES OF PERU. 201 and many inconveniences for the location of their city, and while discussing the matter amongst themselves, the valley of Rimac was suggested as being an advantageous position for the projected capital. Pizarro then appointed three commissioners, Rui Diaz, Juan Tello, and Alonso Martin de Don Benito, to go, with a cacique of Rimac, and examine the valley. The order to the commissioners is dated Pachacamac, January 8th, 1535. At the end of six days, having considered the several points, of the vicinity of the sea, the proximity of the river, the fertility of the soil, and the amenity of the skies, they re- turned, and reported that they had selected an advantageous position for the founding of a capital. On the eighteenth day of January 1535, the city of Lima was founded, under the name of "La ciudad de los Reyes," suggested, as many suppose, from the foundation being laid on the day of the Epiphany.* As the Spaniards in all cases paid a profound and even solemn respect to the forms at least of the Christian religion, Pizarro having marked out the plaza and general plan of the city, laid with his own hands the corner stone of a church, which he dedicated to Our Lady of the As- sumption. This church is now the cathedral of Lima. But Pope Paul IIL, having given the same title to the church in Cuzco, dedicated this to St. John the Evangelist. The word Rimac was changed to Lima by the Spaniards, from the then prevailing habit of confounding, in pronun- ciation, the R and the L. Having founded the city, Pizarro petitioned the Emperor Charles V. to assign to it a coat of arms. He gave the three crowns and the star of the magi, with the two eagles and co- lumns of the Plus Ultra, and the two letters, I. K., the initials of Juana and Carlos. When the city was founded, only twelve Spaniards were present ; but in the course of a few days, thirty came from * Herrera follows Garcilaso, and says, that Lima was founded on the day of the Epiphany ; but Calancha, Montalvo, and other writers, who are generally followed, state, that it was on the eighteenth of January, the anniversary of the festival of St. Peter's chair. Fide, Frezier's Voyage. 2'6 202 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. > Sangallan, and others from Jauja, increasing the number to seventy. The valley of Rimac was inhabited, previous to the conquest, by the subjects of the Grand Chimu, who was conquered by the Inca Yupanqui. In this valley were many large Huacas, of which there are extensive remains to this day. The Huaca of Rimac, or ''the God that speaks," was near the garden or orchard of the convent of Santo Domingo, formerly called La chacra de Rimactanpu, now Limatambo. The term Rimac is the opposite of Pachacamac, which designates the God who created the world and gave life to the universe, but who was never heard nor seen. The ruins of the temple of Pachacamac still remain, and are visited by all travellers in Peru. It is supposed by some, that the valley Rimac derived its name from the noise made by the river in its brawling course ; but the Fray Calancha tells us, that he inquired of an old Indian who was governor of Magdalena, why they called it Rimac. He replied; "Art thou, perchance, one of those who believe that it is so called on account of the river? The God whom my ancestors adored was thus named, because he spoke to them and answered their questions, which was never known of the Huaca of Pachacamac ; and, therefore, in honor of their God, they called his valley Rimac." This explana- tion was never contradicted by any one of the many Indians of whom Calancha asked the meaning of the term. The above account is given on the authority of Francisco Antonio Montalvo, (Life of Santo Torribio, written in 1683, and printed by the procurement of Doctor Don Juan Francisco de Valladolid, under the title of " Albores del Sol del nuevo mundo;") of Fray Antonio de la Calancha, ("Choronica del orden de San Augustin ;) of Garcilaso (" Comentarios Reales ;") of Antonio de Herrera ("Historia de las Indias;") and of Pe- ralta, (" Lima Fundada, o' Conquista del Peru," an epic poem, printed at Lima, 1732). NOTICES OP PERU. 203 CHAPTER IV. Topography and climate of Lima — Plan and divisions of the city — ^Walls — Distribution of property — Population — ^Religious communities. Lima, or as it is now occasionally styled, in the grandilo- quence inherited from the " father land," " City of the Free," is built on the southern bank of the river Rimac, which sepa- rates it from the suburb of San Lazaro. It is sheltered to the north and east by the hills of Amancaes and San Cristoval, which may be considered as mountain spurs of the iV.ndes, the great chain of which runs, north and south, about twenty leagues east of the city. When the sky is clear, their snowy peaks are seen, not only from Lima, but from a long distance at sea. San Cristoval rises 1170 feet, and Amancaes 2560 feet, above the level of the Ocean.* The cross erected on the summit of San Cristoval, is to com- memorate a signal victory, gained over the Indians by the Spaniards, through the miraculous aid of that saint. About two years after the founding of Lima, there was a general rise of the Indians throughout Peru. Cuzco was besieged, and seven- ty thousand Indians occupied the northern bank of the Rimac. In order to be free from the action of the Spanish cavalry, the great body of the Peruvian army was stationed on the hill in question. Whenever they poured down the hill to the attack, the river suddenly rose, and many were drowned ; but when the Spaniards advanced, commending themselves, as they rushed forward, to the care of San Cristoval and Santiago, the waters remained shallow, to the great dismay of their enemies, " being to them, "^ says Garcilaso, " what the Red Sea was to the Phili- stines."t * uWnu£. Observaciones sobre el clima de Lima. Madrid. 1S15.' t Gjurcilaso. Comentarios Reales. Lib. 2. cap. 23. 204 THREE YEAKS IN THE PACIFIC. To the south and west, Lima is open to the breezes which blow from that quarter over the bosom of the Pacific, cooling the air of summer, and clearing away the fogs and mists which hang heavy over the city in the winter. From the stone bridge, built in 1610, over the river, is a beautiful view of the Rimac, which in winter is but a brawling brook, split into streams by a number of pebbly islands, which sprinkle its bed ; while in summer, when it is swollen by the melting snows of the Cordilleras, it rushes impetuously to the sea. On the left bank, looking to the southward, are seen the Alam6da del Acho, and the snowy peaks of the Andes, tower- ing far above the cross of San Cristoval ; on the right are the Convent of San Francisco, with its garden and out buildings, and beyond the precincts of the city, the Pantheon, half hidden amidst gardens and trees. The view is closed by mountains, rising one above the other, till the most distant seem to sup- port the blue vault. To the northward, the eye is lost amongst valleys and hills, and to the west, the immense Pacific expands away till it meets the arching sky. The climate of Lima is perhaps the most flattering in the world. The soil and skies have been themes of praise both with historians and poets. *' En su horizonte el Sol todo es Aurora } Eterna el tiempo todo es primavera ; Solo es risa del cielo cada hora ; Cada mes es cuenta de la esphera : Son cada viento un halito de Flora, Cada arroyo una Musa lisonjera ; Y los vergeles, que el confin le debe, Nubes fragantes con que al cielo Uueve !'*• This valley may be said to enjoy an eternal spring, for vege- tation and fructification are constantly going forward. We see in the same garden, one tree putting forth its tender blossoms, while another is bending beneath its matured fruit ; and both phenomena are sometimes seen upon the branches of the same plant. Wherever water reaches it, the soil, though not deep, * Peralta. Lima Fundada, o* Conquista del Peru. torn. 2. p. 289., cant 8. at DL Lima 1732. NOTICES OP FERU. 205 is abundantly prolific. The atmosphere is cloudy and humid, yet it may be said with propriety, that it never rains ! The vapors raised from the Ocean, by the power of the sun, form an awning over the city for the greater part of the day. Day- break is accompanied with a dense fog, which conceals objects that are but a short distance from the eye. As the sun climbs the heavens, the fog rises, discovering the surrounding coun- try, and at midday, the clear blue sky breaks for a short time upon the sight As the sun declines, the azure becomes gra- dually obscured by clouds. At night the gentle breezes of the south urge on more vapors to supply those of the preceding day. Such is the successive change, except for a few days in midsummer, when it is cloudless, and a few in the depth of winter, when there is a constant mist. The thermometer (F.) ranges from 51° the coolest, to 81° the warmest day in the year, and rarely travels beyond those limits. The barometer usually stands at twenty-seven inches four lines, varying only from two to four lines, through the year.* This atmosphere is seldom changed or renovated, because thunder, lightning, and tempests are almost unknown on the sea board, yet their place is awfully filled by frequent and sometimes terrible earth- quakes 1 In the mountains, however, amidst the lofty peaks of the Cordilleras, terrific storms, accompanied by thunder and lightning, are not unfrequent ; the glow of lightning is occa- sionally perceived from the coast. From six to twelve, or even more, slight earthquakes are felt annually, but the great con- cussions seem to observe a periodical return at the end of about a half century. The following table of earthquakes, which have occurred since the conquest, at Quito, Arequipa, and Lima, seems to confirm this statement. It is taken from Dr. Unanu6'3 excellent work on the climate already referred to. Arequipa. 1582. Lima. 1586. Quito. 1587. 1604. 1630. 1645. 1687. 1687. 1698. 1715, 1746. 1757. 1784. 1806. 1797. Unanu& 206 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. The year is divided into two seasons, summer and winter. Towards the close of April, the fogs become dense, and cover the sky, day and night; the mists commence, and continue, in damp years, without interruption, till the sun approaches the solstice, when the days become clear and warm ; the vapors are dissipated, and we have the " veranito de San Juan" — the little summer of St. John, answering to the Indian summer of the autumn in the United States. This passes away, and in the months of July and August, prevail the heavy mists, called, in the native language of the Incas, gdrua, and by foreigners, ironically, " Peruvian dew." The weather is then cool, but fires are never required to sit by, though the necessity of them is sometimes discussed by strangers. Why it never rains in Lima, nor along the coast, from Lat. 6°S. to 23° S., may be thus explained. The aqueous vapors constantly raised from the Pacific, immediately after formation, are attracted by the mountains, or forced there by the prevail- ing winds, but instead of bursting in showers, undergo a sort of leakage, because the clouds float so low, that the minute par- ticles of mist do not fall far enough to form distinct drops. Yet this may be owing rather to the electrical condition and rela- tions of the mountains and valleys, than to an attracting power. However, the phenomenon ceases in the western regions, be- yond the influence of the Cordilleras. It has been remarked by Dr. Unanu6, that the great rains of the Andes are the re- sult of the vaporization of the Pacific ; and that, as a conse- quence, are formed the great rivers, emptying into the Atlantic; thus, through the air, by the intervention of the mountains, the former becomes a tributary to the latter Ocean. The birth of the Amazon and the La Plata, may have been the ruin of the fabled land of Atlantis. Notwithstanding that it is so agreeable to the senses, the climate of Lima is enervating; and previous to acclimation, fo- reigners are very obnoxious to diseases of the liver and diges- tive organs, for which, in many instances, nothing is eflfectual but changing it for the more genial skies of Chile. Lima is laid out in equal squares of four hundred feet, divid- ed by streets thirty-three and a half feet wide, which intersect NOTICES OF PERtJ. 207 each other at right angles. The courses of the streets do not follow the cardinal points, but vary from east to south-east j ** a precaution taken by the founder," says the poet Valdes, « that the walls might cast a shade both in the morning and afternoon.^' Including thirty in the suburb called El Cercado, the city contained, in 1791, no less than two hundred and nine squares, and three hundred and fifty-five streets.* Since that time, little or no improvement has been made ; not a single new dwelling having been built within the walls during the last thirty years. Through the centre of nearly all the streets, runs a stream of water, thcee feet wide, which is a sort of cloax or re- ceptacle for all kinds of filth thrown out from private dwellings. The streets are paved with round pebbles, and the narrow trottoir with flat stones, in such bad repair, however, that it is painful for the feet of the stranger who presses them. This plan extends to the suburb of San Lazaro, which is separated from the city proper by the Rimac. It contains the plaza del Acho, or bull ring, the Alam6da del Acho, and the Alam6da de los Descalzos, which was finished in 1611, during the vice- royship of the Marques de Monte Glares. The city is divided into four quarteles, and each one of these into thirty-five barrios. For each barrio an alcalde, a functionary similar to a Philadelphia magistrate, is selected from amongst its inhabitants. The clerical division is into eight parishes. The houses are generally of one story, yet there are many dwellings of two, which, for extent and magnificence, are com- parable to palaces. The walls are of mud and cut straw, worked up together, moulded into large sized bricks, dried in the sun. That the walls may be more capable of resisting the frequent earthquakes, stout pieces of timber are worked ia them, and when a second story is raised, it is constructed of stout, split reeds, wattled together, and then plastered over with mud. The roofs are flat, made of mats, covered over with an inch or two of earth — enough to absorb the g&vua which falls duciaag the winter. From a height the city resera*' * Mercuno FQruano, vol. 1. p. 90. 208 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. bles a vast ruin ; the tops of the houses look as if they were covered with ashes, and the number of buzzards, stalking so- lemnly over every building, serves to enhance the impression. The whitewashed fronts of the houses present a puertacalle or great doorway, opening into a patio, across which are seen the windows and entrance to the drawing-room, or sometimes to the sala. The windows are without shutters, and until of late years, without glass or sash ; in their place are substituted *' rejas," which are fancifully formed gratings of iron, some- times beautifully gilt. Very few houses have windows open- ing from the lower story into the street. Heavy, close balco- nies, resembling great boxes, jut out over the great door-way ; they are generally green, but so seldom painted, that they look sad and dingy. The walls terminate abruptly on top, without cornice or finish of any kind, except in some of the best houses and public buildings. When the puertacalle opens on a dead wall, as is the case in many parts of the city, a landscape or some perspective view is painted on it to relieve the eye. Nevertheless, the appearance of the streets is dull and mean. The interior structure is light and airy, and well adapted to the climate. The various rooms are distributed round courts, which are surrounded by corridors when there are two stories, accessible from the patio by a broad stair. All the rooms are lofty. For the admission of light and air, they have square windows near the ceiling, closed by rough inside shutters, con- trolled by cords, terminated with tassels, which hang from spring-latches into the room. The joists or rafters which sup- port the roof or ceiling, as it may be, are carved and varnished. The floors are generally made of square earthen tiles, and in the best houses of Dutfeh tiles, ornamented with drawings. The walls are whitewashed ; within a few years, however, some are papered, and in the dwellings of the wealthy, tapes- tried with damask. Some houses have two or three courts, with corridors communicating one with the other. Almost every house has a stream of water running through it, which is used for domestic purposes. Gardens are rare. Though the Limanians are passionately fond of flowers, they seldom attempt any thing further in this way than the cultiva- NOTICES OP PERU. 209 tion of a few choice plants — mostly bulbs — which are displayed in pots around the corridors. The city is surrounded by a parapet wall, about seven miles in circuit, and pierced by six gates. It is from eighteen to twenty-five feet high, and about nine feet thick. It is defended by thirty-five bastions, each flank being ninety feet, perpen- dicular to the curtain, and the face about sixty yards, making the angle of the epaule one hundred and thirty degrees. Ex- cept at some of the bastions, the wall is too narrow for the mounting of artillery, which leads us to suppose, that it was constructed to guard against incursions of the Indians. They are without/o55e or out works, and their top is a very frequent promenade for foreigners, but natives seldom resort to them. They were built about the year 1685, during the viceroyship of the Duke de la Palata, by Don Juan Ramond, a Flemish priest. In 1791, the property of Lima was distributed and owned as follows : — Houses. 9 belonged to The King. 362 Convents. 216 Monasteries. 17 Holy Inquisition. 103 Hospitals. 24 Holy places. 157 Brotherhoods. 29 Colleges. 137 Clerigos. 61 Private religiosos. 29 Individual nuns. 2797 Individuals. il, 3941 It will be seen, on examination of the above list, that nearly one-third of the property belonged to the church and to charita- ble institutions. The first census of the population of Lima was made in 1600, 27 210 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. when it contained 14,262 inhabitants. The following is the census of 1790. SINGLB. KABRIES. WIDOWED. TOTAI. Spaniards, [ndians. Mestizos, Negroes, Mulattoes, Quarteroons, Quinteroons, Zambos, Chinos, Total, Men. Women. Men. Women. Men. Women. 5225 1426 1357 3138 1831 728 76 1139 385 4835 929 1362 2737 2148 815 91 1308 414 2740 684 737 1200 775 345 17 312 135 2603 631 767 1250 735 290 16 349 117 370 80 74 153 78 43 6 102 26 1442 162 334 482 405 162 13 174 43 17,215 3,912 4,631 8,960 5,972 2,383 219 3,384 1,120 15305 14639 6945 6758 932 3217 47,796 „ , CMen, 23,182 > .- _q- Seculars, |women, 24^614 5 ^^'^^^• Religious professors, Jwo'Jien, Living in religious C Men, communities, \ Women, 656^ »'«*'• 1,564^ 1,620 3 3,184. Total, CMen, 25,737 > .^ . „ i Women, 26,890 5 ^^'^'''* The population, since 1790, has probably decreased one-fifth; so that the city now contains, by estimate, 40,000 inhabitants. This decrease must be referred to the war of the revolution, which carried off many in the battle fields ; others removed to Spain rather than join the patriot cause. Population of Lima. In the year 1600, 14,262 Increase. 1614, 25,455 11,193 1700, 37,259 11,804 1746, 60,000 22,741 Decrease. 1755, 54,000 6,000 1781, 60,000 6,000 1790, 52,627 7,373 NOTICES OP PEHU. zit The earthquake of 1746, and the epidemic diseases which followed, caused a decrease of 6,000 in the population. From the repugnance of the lower orders to give the true number of their families, supposing that the census is for the purpose of levying new taxes, it is presumed that the above numbers are rather under than beyond the truth. Religious Communities. Orders of Friars. Houses. Number. Benitos, 1 12 Geronimos, 1 3 {Mendicants.) Dominicans, 4 272 Franciscan, 2 242 Descalzos, 1 60 Missionaries of Ocopa, 4 Augustins, 3 227 Mercedarians, 3 228 Minimos, 1 64 San Juan de Dios, 1 53 {Regular ckrgy.) Agonizantes, 2 88 {Cmgregation.) S. Felipe Neri, 1 94 Total, 20 1347 The above numbers include noviciates, servants, and slaves. Orders of Nuns. Berndrdas, Houses. 1 Number. 157 Dominicas, 2 225 Franciscas Claras, 1 244 Capuchinas, Coneebidas, 1 1 39 260 Do. Descalzas, 1 155 Carried forward, 1080 212 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. Orders of Nuns. Houses. Number. Brought forward, 7 1080 Augustinas, 2 268 Carmelitas Descalzas, 2 88 Do. Nazarinas Descal; zas, 1 47 Trinitdrias, 1 53 Merceddrias, 1 49 14 1585 Orders of Nuns. Houses. Numbe Beatarias.* Dominicas, 1 53 Franciscas, 1 63 Do. Indias, 1 47 Amparadas y Recogidas, 1 147 310 The above numbers include novices, nuns, servants, and slaves. Since this enumeration was made (1791), perhaps the num- ber of nuns and friars has decreased one-fifth, t CHAPTER V. Plaza — Porldles — Palace — Cathedral — Archbishop's palace — Fountains — The Plaza by day, and by night — Segarr^ros — Pic^ntes — Barquillos — Ice. The great square of Lima, in ancient times the Plaza Real, now Plaza de la Independencia, suggests a thousand associa- tions. Here Pizarro drew the plan of this Metropolis ; here he laid the corner stone of the Cathedral, the first building in the • Those females who devote their lives to religion and charity, but without binding themselves to seclusion, are termed Beatas. t Vide, Mercurio Peruano, Vol. I. NOTICES OF PEKU. 21 3 « City of Kings ;" here he saw the town-house and palace rise ; within a few yards of this spot he lost his life, and not far off, now rest his bones ! Here, too, San Martin proclaimed Liber- ty to the inhabitants, and Bolivar was honored and contemned. Here Torre Tagle ordered the national hymn to be sung by young girls, assembled from the several schools, on every Sun- day morning ! For three hundred years, the plaza has been, by turns, the scene of business, of religious processions, of amatory intrigues, of festivities, and of public executions ! — and will probably continue so to be. The customs of Lima are now too old, and too deeply rooted, soon to change ! On the east side of the plaza, are the Cathedral, and Arch- bishop's palace, part of which is now occupied by the Peruvian Senate. On the north is what was once Pizarro's palace ; on the west, are the house of the Cabildo, or Municipality, the prison, and the offices of the Escribanos, or Scriveners ; on the . south, is the Portd.1 de los Botineros, and in the centre stands a brazen fountain, which was once glittering with gold. The Portdl de los Botineros, and that of the Escribanos, are covered walks extending along two sides of the plaza, support- ing a second story of irregular balconies, on arches and colon- nades of brick. Beneath the first are fancy stores, and against the colonnades are placed, in the day time, the tables and appa- ratus of fringe makers, of lace makers, of button makers (and hence the name of this one,) cases of small wares, &c. Under the Portdl de los Escribanos, are drygood shops, and some no- taries' offices. In front of them are the cases and tables of small drygood dealers, or permanent pedlars, with a display of all that a seamstress can want in the way of thread, needles, ribbons and tape. The tables and awnings of these traders, who remove them at sunset, extend over nearly one-third of the plaza. The upper story of the "Button-makers' Portico," is occupied by private families. Both portiles are paved with small pebbles, and the ends of leg bones, distributed so as to form various figures. The Cathedral is a noble edifice of one hundred and eighty- six feet front, by three hundred and twenty deep. The front presents three great doors, which open upon a broad terrace, Sl4 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. and above them, an ecclesiastic coat of arms. These are sup- ported by Corinthian columns and figures of saints. At each corner is a tower rising nearly two hundred feet from its base, which is forty feet. They are octagonal, ornamented with Corinthian columns, cornices, ovals, socles and mouldings ; the whole is surmounted by a gilt ball, and an iron cross twelve feet high. The towers were thrown down by the earthquake of 1746, and rebuilt in 1800. During 1832 the pyramids and cupolas on their summits were painted, and the balls gilded. In the belfries there are three large, fine toned bells, besides several smaller ones. The largest, called La Cantabria, weighs 310 quintals; the second. La Purisima, 155 quintals; and the third. La Antigua, 55 quintals ! On the north side of the Cathedral, corresponding to it in architecture, is a small church, surmounted with a low cupola and cross, termed the Sagrario. Adjoining to it is the Arch- bishop's palace. It is two stories high, and the front wall is crowned with a balustrade and urns. Like the dwellings of Lima, it is disfigured by a close jutting balcony. Beneath the terrace of the Cathedral are several small shoe- makers' shops, called Los cajones de los cabachuelos. The palace occupies the whole north side of the plaza. It presents an irregular, mean, half broken down row, of two stories high. The lower one is occupied by shops, in which are sold hardware, twine, sulphur, wax and books, and almost every one has the same assortment. From no very distant resemblance to huge boxes, this row has acquired the name of Los cajones de la ribera. Coarse unbleached awnings are propped out over them to protect their goods from the sun. The second story is a kind of open gallery, called La Galerfa de Palacio. A side entrance leads from the plaza into one of the great patios, through which, it is supposed, Almagro's par- ty entered when Pizarro was slain. In the centre of the square, on a level table of masonry, forty feet on each side, and raised three feet, having drains around it for carrying off the superabundant water, is placed the great reservoir of the beautiful fountain of Lima. It is twenty-four feet in diameter, and about three feet deep. It is NOTICES OF PERU. 215 crowned by eight lions, with a griffin at the feet of each, and is ornamented exteriorly with mouldings and flowers in semi- relief, and interiorly the sides and bottom are glazed. In the centre of this reservoir is a pedestal eighteen feet high, com- posed of three parts, which supports a second basin, eight feet in diameter. Around it are eight grotesque masks, from the mouths of which the water is jetted into the reservoir below. A column, two feet in diameter and five feet high, adorned with foliage in relief, rises out of the second basin, and sustains a third, sixteen feet in circumference, and" surrounded by seraphs, who jet forth the water collected in it. Again arises another column from its centre, supporting a ball, upon which is poised a statue of Fame, five feet high. In her right hand she once held the armorial bearings of the monarch of Spain, and in her left, a trumpet with which she published his name and magnificence to the world ! But they are gone. The whole height of the fountain is forty feet. At the corners of the table of mason work are small fountains, orna- mented like the centre one. The whole is of bell-metal, and all its ornaments conform to the composite order of civic architecture. From one of the inscriptions on the four sides of the pedes- tal, we learn that this fountain was erected in 1650. The water is derived from a common reservoir near the college of Santo Tomas, on the eastern side of the city. The reservoir is supplied from the Rimac; the difference of elevation be- tween it and the plaza is thirty-three feet. There are several other fountains in different parts of the city, which present a brick wall or block of masonry, with water constantly pouring from leaden pipes into a basiu and drain. The plaza of Lima, every hour of the day from dawn till midnight, presents scenes of interest to the idle stranger, where he may observe manners, customs, and costumes, so totally different from all he has before met with, that if his curiosity be not awakened, he must have been disinherited by mother Eve. Entering the Portdl de Botin6ros, about ten o'clock in the 216 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. morning, and passing to that of the Escribanos, many inter- esting groups and figures present themselves, and what is re- markable, from one end of the year to the other the picture is always the same. All Sundays and feast days are alike; and all working days strikingly resemble each other ; except when there is some popular exhibition or religious procession going forward, and then it is more crowded. The first figure that called attention was that of a stout negro, in full bottomed, dark green breeches, open at the knee, show- ing that his linen drawers were embroidered and pointed like a rufile. Before him stood a table, on which was spread a piece of bayeta — a species of baize — the long furze of which he was combing with a card, such as is used with us for carding wool and cotton. The shopkeepers were seen, when not occupied by cus- tomers, seated on the counters, neatly dressed, swinging their legs and smoking cigars ; or sometimes a half dozen were list- ening to the news from an infant gazette, read in a monotonous tone. When a lady entered to purchase, she uncovered her face, though not always, and the shopman generally served her with a cold indifierence that argued a great love for dolce far nUnte. This feeling, I am told, has been known to gain such influence at times, that a shopman, rather than move, has de- nied having goods which were seen upon his shelves ! Strangers generally pay doubly for all they buy in Lima. I have known thirty dollars received for an article, of which the price asked was a hundred. About ten o'clock, the shopmen are seen be- hind their counters, taking breakfast, which usually consists of some stew, bread, a basin of broth, followed by a cup of cho- colate and a glass of water. The tables along the colonnades present a number of handy- craftsmen of every variety of caste, making silk cords, tassels, gold and silver epaulettes, sword knots, buttons, &c. Presently we met a can&nigo. Like all of his class, he wore a long black cloak, black small clothes and silk stockings, with large shoes and buckles. At a distance his hat resembled a great black cylinder. Close at his heels were two or three boys in black suits, relieved by a blue sash worn over the NOTICES OF PERf. 217 shoulder, tottering under huge cocked hats trimmed with feathers. They were collegians. Then came two gaily dressed officers, arm and arm, whiskered and moustached — booted and spurred. Nothing kept their vanity from flying away with them, but the weight of their long metal scabbarded sabres, which clattered after them over the pavement. The organ of self-esteem must be even greater than that of combativeness in the Peruvian army ! Next was a serrdno or Indian from the interior, followed by his wife. He wore a high crowned, broad brimmed straw hat without a band, and a long poncho of bayeta, falling below the knee. His legs and feet were bare, and judging from the spread of the toes, they had never been acquainted with shoes. A pair of alforjas — coarse saddle bags — hung carelessly over his left shoulder, and his right hand grasped a long staff. His black temple locks hung straight down his cheeks, as was the fashion hundreds of years before the conquest. He was of brawny stature, with a broad cop- per colored face, high cheek bones, and a serene countenance. His wife was clad in a coarse woollen petticoat, plaited full round the waist, and short enough to show her bare feet. A young child was slung over her back in a shawl of blue bayeta. Her hair was combed back from the forehead, and braided in two long tresses hanging almost to the ground. / Curiosity kept the Indian looking over his shoulder, and, in consequence, he ran into the corpulency of a staid judge, with a severe counte- nance and a large cocked hat. His shirt was folded, ruffled, and starched in a prim style, and a star of brilliants was sus- pended round his neck by a broad tricolored ribbon. The ren- contre was equally unexpected, for the judge was in a most sedate and pensive mood. His moody look changed into a scowl of contemptuous anger ; the Indian cowered under it, touched his hat, and passed on. The feelings of the Indian and the European Spaniard are still as uncongenial as oil and water, though, like the first of those two fluids, the Spaniard always maintains his superiority. Half way down the Portdl de Botin6ros is an alley, about ten feet wide, leading into the street south of the plaza. This is called el Callejon de Petateros, from being chiefly occupied 2S 218 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. by manufacturers of a kind of coarse flag mat, half an inch in thickness, known by the name of petdte, and usually inter- posed between the rough tile floors and carpets. In this same callej&n are constantly seen a number of Indians and negroes making segarreros, and washing and glazing straw hats from Manila and Guayaquil. The segarrero is a case for cigars, plaited with the fingers, of a species of grass which grows at Choco, near the Equator. It consists of two symmetrical halves, one being nicely received into the other. Some are as fine as hair, and of various colors, disposed in different figures ; the initials, and even the whole name, are occasionally worked into them. Their price varies, according to the quality, from a dollar to a doubloon. At the corner where the portdles join, are generally hung up the placards or bills advertising the play, cock-fight, and bull-bait. They are all done by hand instead of the printing press. The most interesting scene of the play to be repre- sented is caricatured in bright colors, much as we see large wood cuts of the feats to be performed at the equestrian the- atres in the United States. The bull-ring is shown, with some one of the different modes of attack to be resorted to on the day of exhibition. Cock-fighting is announced on a scroll, sup- ported from the beaks of two cocks, painted on a large piece of cloth, on which are some eight or ten doggrel rhymes lau- datory of the birds, and the amount bet on the pitched fight. At the same corner there is always a number of boys, with quantities of cheap dry goods, spread upon the ground, con- stantly crying the qualities and prices at the top of their voices : "Panuelos finos, a real y medio" — fine pocket handkerchiefs, at a real and a half. At sunset the scene changes. All the shops are shut, busi- ness is closed for the day, and the plaza is then devoted to plea- sure and promenade. Along the Portdl de Escribanos are ta- bles, where are sold, by candle light, ices and iced drinks of several kinds. Orchata — prepared from almonds — and chicha, a species of beer made from maize, are common. Ice is a monopoly granted to a company. Physicians deem ice so important in the treatment of diseases, that the mono- NOTICES OP PERU. 219 polists are bound under a heavy penalty to keep the city sup- plied with it ; if they are found without it for twenty-four hours, their charter becomes null. Malignant persons have at times made a run on the company, and when the stock was exhausted, informed the government, in order to gain one-half of the fine. Therefore it is difficult to obtain a considerable quantity at a time, for they will never sell to any individual more than one or two reals' worth. In the centre of the plaza, here and there, are glimmering lights and fires. Men and women are seated around the fresco tables, as they are termed, partaking of the various refresh- ments. The saya y manto has disappeared, but the ladies still hide their faces, by wearing a shawl over the head. Here an old negress, with long bony arms, shining in grease, with scarce tatters enough to conceal her limbs, squats over a copper pan of boiling lard, in which fritters are cooking. A long stick serves her all the purposes of a fork for turning the cakes, and when she cannot see, it is first dipped into the fat, then into the fire, and is at once converted into a torch. There, another sybil of the same deep complexion and garb, sits upon the ground, stretching her neck silently over a pan of frittering, crackling fish, while a half dozen negroes are stretched out about her, resting upon an elbow, eating from a gourd plate. The uncertain glare which dapples these groups, gives to them, at first sight, something of that appearance which the imagina- tion attaches to Hades. In another spot sits a bare headed ne- gro, in big breeches, making barquillos. He has three or four irons, like those for waffles, arranged in a bed of hot coals, and a copper pan of batter, by his side. He pours a spoonful on one of the irons, from which he has just removed a barqui- llo, and places it in the fire. < Then taking the iron furthest to his left, he opens it, and scrapes round the edges with a knife ; he turns the wafer-like cake upon his palm, and rolls it round a stick, which is removed by a slight jerk of the hand, and falls to the ground, leaving the barquillo like a sheet of lightly rolled paper. Both hands are now wiped on the full part of his dirty breeches, and the iron is again set in motion. These cakes are made very rapidly. They are eaten with ices and 220 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. chocolate, by those who care not for the mode in which they are made. Still another kind of refreshment is found in the picdnte, which consists of various kinds of butcher's meat, made into a stew, spiced and peppered as hotly as possible. After partaking of it, the throat is flooded with iced chicha, to quench the flame which the morsel excites. From sunset till eleven and twelve o'clock at night, in the summer season particularly, men and women are strolling from table to table. The women, with their faces hidden under the shawl, perform the part of maskers in the scene. Many curi- ous adventures and anecdotes are related of the feigned liaisons d'amours which the Limanians have sustained, in order to be invited to partake of refreshments at the expense of some uninitiated wight. Women have been known to pretend to the acquaintance of a gentleman accidentally met in the plaza, (and masked as they are, it is impossible to recognise them,) till they have succeeded in taking ices at his expense, then throw- ing off the disguise, express their astonishment that he was " tan inocente" — so simple, as not to have detected them. The his- tory of the intrigues and deceptions practised in this plaza, would form a volume of much interest to a curious reader. CHAPTER VI. Saya y Manto — Scenes in the street — Police — Market — Cherimoya — Palta- Granadilla — Caf6s. The walking dress of the ladies of Lima, presents a very cu- rious and unique appearance to the stranger who beholds it for the first time. Yet after a little use, it is rather pleasing than disgusting to the eye, when prettily worn. For several days after my arrival, my chief amusement in the morning, be- fore breakfast, was to stand in the puertacalle and observe the ladies in saya y manto, as they passed to and from mass. This NOTICES OF PERU. 221 dress consists of two parts. The saya, the lower part, is a silk- en petticoat, made in folds or plaits, extending from bottom to top, and of nearly the same breadth above and below. It sits closely to the figure, and being elastic, from the manner in which it is sewed, manifests the contour of the figure, and the whole muscular play of the body and limbs. The manto is a hood of crimped silk, cut bias or diagonally, to give it elas- ticity. The bottom part of it is gathered full by a drawing string, and, encircling more than half of the body, sits low enough down to hide the top of the saya. This hood, drawn up from behind, over the shoulders and head, and covering the elbows and arms, is folded ov^er the face in such a manner as to conceal all but one eye. One hand is occupied in holding the fold in its place in front, while the other is carried across the breast, bearing sometimes a reticule or pocket handker- chief, and at others, a rosary or cross. When worn open, leav- ing the face uncovered, as is often the case, the position of the hands is nearly the same. The fore-finger rests upon the cheek, and the elbow appears supported by the hand of the other side, giving an air of pensiveness to the whole figure. Being drawn tightly under the elbows, the manto is kept tense over the head. With this dress the comb is not always worn. The saya is always short enough to display the foot and ankle, which are set oflf in white silk stockings, and satin slippers, of every co- lor. Silk shawls, of every dye, beautifully embroidered and fringed, fall from the bust in front 5 while behind they are con- cealed in the manto, forming a bunch on the back, rather in- jurious to the appearance. The say as are of every color, but the mantos are invariably black. ' This costume, though of ancient origin, was not worn in the beginning of the eighteenth century. Then, a dress called the Faldellin was in fashion, and was occasionally seen till about the year 1800. It was a short petticoat, made very full, and trimmed with a profusion of lace. San Martin was so much opposed to the saya y manto, that he issued a " bando" prohibiting ladies from appearing in the streets in that dress, but to no purpose. It offers too many ad- vantages to the intrigantey and too many conveniences for the 222 THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. slattern, to be soon thrown aside. Slipping into a saya y man- to at dawn, a lady is dressed to comply with the requisitions of the church, without losing time at her toilet. It was, there- fore, a cruel whim in San Martin, to wish them to resign it! This is strictly the walking dress, and is always worn when << shopping," or as they more emphatically express it, " cheap- ening." It is not considered a full dress, nor is it ever worn at night — in fact, ladies never promenade at night. It requires very little tact to distinguish a foreign lady, in saya y manto, from a Limanian. The walk of the foreigner is constrained and clumsy, while that of the true Limena is all grace and ease ; she treads with the true* grdcia, which it is difficult to describe. *' Grdcia" expresses all that is agreeable in the air and presence — all that polish and ease of manner, which distinguish accomplished persons. The making of sayas is a business followed by men ; being first lined with calico, white or colored, it is plaited over a straight board, and stitched. The time expended in their con- struction renders them expensive. A hundred dollars is not an unusual price for a fine saya ; one lasts, however, a year, which must be some consolation to fathers who, with moderate fortunes, rejoice in many unmarried daughters. Standing at a door in a fashionable street, is an easy way of observing the costume and characteristics of a large city. At Lima, I found in the course of a day, that all to be seen in this respect passed our hotel. In the morning, glided by in one direction or another, sayas y mantos of every color and age, from the new, lustrous satin of the wealthy young maiden, through the grades of lack-lustre of the middle aged, the frayed of the old, and the ragged and broken of my lady's maid. The colors and ages of the wear- ers were as various as the sayas themselves. In compliance with promises of penance, some wore a girdle of leather, about two inches wide, with a long end hanging almost to the feet. If "las Su61as de San Augustin," as this girdle is termed for some unknown reason, be the measure of sins, the old women have more to answer for than the young ones. Again ; there are a few females devoted to religion and the NOTICES OF PERU. 233 exercise of charity, who are termed "beatas." They wear dresses of white worsted, with capes and hoods of the same. Later in the day, pass priests and friars of several orders. The Mercedarian appears in a loose robe of white worsted, with a black cape and hood lined with white. His head is bare, showing the tonsure and mathematical cut of his straightly combed hair, or it is covered with a clerical bonnet of white. The followers of San Augustin and St. Francis wear an entire- ly blue dress. The Dominican is distinguished from the Mer- cedarian by the black cape being cut in a long point before and behind. Both carry long rosaries and crosses suspended about the neck. The Descalzos, or barefooted, of the order of St. Francis, wear a sackcloth robe, with pointed capes, girt round the body with a leather belt, a broad brimmed hat, and san- dals. They carry a tin box for receiving alms, and a long staff. The brotherhood or order of Buenamuerte are robed in black, with a cross of red cloth stitched upon the breast. The military, in gay uniforms, are seen walking and riding at all times. The collegians strut in black suits and cocked hats, and judges are decorated with ribbons and medals. Then come pedlars, crying their goods and low pi'ices, and staggering under a load of calicoes, strung over a stick, which is supported at the side by a strap over the shoulder. The ven- der of lottery tickets is seen sauntering along, with a book filled with sheets of tickets in one hand, and an ink-horn in the other, bawling out, 5W — tr — te, and pausing at each syllable, and be- fore every gentleman he may find standing, to importune him to purchase a ticket. If disappointed, he turns, away, and for consolation, shouts su — h — te as loud as ever. From one to two o'clock, the streets are alive with venders of the various messes eaten by families of the middling class, who seldom cook in their houses, but purchase their food at the door, ready for mastication. Negro wenches, with trays on the head, crying *