SHSSSSBEaESSSSHSSS A UNIFORM SYSTEM FOR Ladies^ and Geni^u^ Garments BY F, fiPIKMAN THE U. S. A. SYSTEM OF LADIES & GENTLEMEN'S GARMENTS CUTTING. BY fFspikman. The main feature helping towards perfection in garment-cutting is a perfectly made system. PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. BUFFALO N. Y. U.S.A. I m 24 1918 ©CI.A497448 l<^.^ j h copyright, may 1918, By FRINS SPIKMAN. BUFFALO, N. Y. U. S. A. PREFACE. "|"he herein compounded cutting system will give a better, clearer, a more complete explanation of the numerous problems which the art of cutting embraces, then my brief vocabulary would be capable of desribing. When we will consider the fact how comprehensive and of which a contradictory nature those problems are; (which we may call "the gaps or unanswerd problems of authors and system-makers.") then, the value of the system appears clearly upon the fore-ground. The desire to produce something far in advance of even the most pretentious cutting systems now before the trade, is realized in the compounding of a uniform cutting system for both sexes, which is a feature to be appreciated, especially in this days of competition. The con- tents of this book will give proof that it represents the kind of system which give ful- lest satisfaction, and most adequately fill the requirement of even the very exacting cutter of to day. The system is perfectly balanced as may be judged from the accom- panying geometrical plane, whose lines and figures correspond with the construction- lines of the system— resulting in a equally correctness even for the most puzzling fig- ures—thus adding considerable to the value and render the system practical faultless. The aim of this book has been to make every point in it— safe to rely upon — and to act upon — to furnish a more reliable tool to the profession. The unlimited usefulness makes it indispensable to the progressive tailor who desires to secure the patronage of that class of customers whose aim it is to posses the ACME in ARTISTIC garments. Buffalo, N. Y. U. S. A. F. Spikman. THEOREM. Balance the secret of cutting. Above is the theorem of the system which in connec- tion with the contents of this book desolves every question regarding cutting. The lines and marks used in this are corresponding with the pattern-drawings. Problems as— neck-point, balance, disproportion etc. which have vexed the brightest minds, are desolved by the compounding of this geometrical plane. Balance is a equal weight on both sides of the centre of gravity round which it moves. The so called neck-point cannot move without moving of the joining back-part in opposite direction. Any at- titude or form as head for or backward, stooping or erect etc. in any case equilibrium will be preserved. Circumference of breast or bust has nothing to do with balance that falls beyound the boundary lines of the theorem. Balance correctly follows any growth of waist as can be noticed by the different pattern drawings throughout the book. The waistline— represented by line 4— B— is the second bending in the body, and forms the platform of the bascule for the uppersection. It will be noticed that this system deals only with one section or solid for the upper-structure. HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES Fig To get the very best results, measure all short measurements for MEN over vest, for LADIES over tight fitting waist or blouse. Depth of scye as shown in Fig. 1 is measured from nape of neck at C to D. Natural waist length is measured from nape of neck at C to B. (Fig. 2.) Over-shoulder is measured from A or forearm-pitch over centre of shoulder to centre of back at D. Blade measure is measured from D at centre of back, close up under the arm to A. Strap measure is measured from A up to nape of neck at C. Bust or breast measure is taken all around the body, close up under the arms, and well up the shoulder blades. Tape must meet in front directly across fullest part of bust or chest. (The line E in Fig. 3 shows where this measurement is to be taken). Waist measurement. Measure around the smallest part of the waist. Hip measure is taken around fullest part of seat as shown bv line H. SCALE OF PROPORTIONAL WAIST MEASURES, DEDUCED FROM THE OVER-SHOULDER MEASURE. The proportion 1/2 waist measure is one inch less than the over-shoulder measure. /er-shoulder taken Txr.2 over vest. Wais 12 ; 22 12V^ 23 13 i 24 13V^ 25 14 i 26 141/2 27 15 \ 28 m2 29 16 30 im 31 17 32 171/2 33 18 34 im 35 19 36 im 37 20 38 20^ 39 21 40 21% 41 22 42 22V4 43 23 44 D.B. FROCK-COAT. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Fashion waist length Full length Over-shoulder 91/2 in. Blade measure 113/4 in 17 ,, Strap measure 121/2,, 183/4 „ Breast measure 38 ,, 41 ,, Waist measure 341/2,, 175/8,. Seat measure 40 ,, Rule line A B. Make C one-sixth over- shoulder from A. C to D, back-depth. C B, natural waist-length. C BB full length. B to F is one inch. Place E one-third over- shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G, 1/2 over-shoulder below F. C to FF, is fashion waist-length. Square out from E, H,F,FF and G. G to W is IV^ inches. Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. N is midway between J and M. Connect A N. Place P from E, V2 over- shoulder less 3/j inch. Q from D, V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. Mark R Vi over-shoulder above Q. R to S is i/g over-shoulder. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, measure back-depth plus 1 inch or to desired shoulder width. is back -depth above L. Measure from the centre of M-0 down to V, 1/2 over-shoulder less 1/2 inch; locating V in te centre of the lines M-L and P-0. B to 21 is Vs over-shoulder; X from W a tri- fle more. Rule from 21 through X to 22. Make 20 midway between Q and H. Curve from R through 20 and 21. Mark 7, 14 over-shoulder below 20. Take out 1 inch between back part and side- body at 7, and IVi inches from 21 to 23. Curve the side body from 1/2 inch above R, through 20, 7 and 23 to 24; Placing 24, 1/4 inch below the fashion waist-line. Make U from 23, Vi over-shoulder less 1/2 inch. Raise 25, V2 inch above the fashion waist-line Chalk from 24 to 25. Shape the side seam from V through U to 25. Cut out the back; the top part through the lines C-A, A-N and N-L. The width of the back neck is regulated later on in harmony with the forepart. The placing of the shoulder seam also may be done afterward. Lay the back part on the paper and continue the lines H,F, FF and G. From W to Y is over-shoulder Place the number of 1/2 over-shoulder on Y and mark at Z, 1/4 waist measure. Measure fro-n W to X; place that quan- tity on Z, and make 19, half seat measure and 1/2 inch. Raise 27 the difference be- tween Vi waist and Vi seat above 24. Drop 26 IV2 inch below the fashion waist line. Chalk the pleat edge from 27 through 19 to 13, and the waist seam from 27 through 25 to 26. Place 1, 3 inches from Z. Square up and- down to 2 and 3 Make star, 1/2 over-shoul- der from 2. 10, always 2 inches from star. From star to 15 is 14 waist measure plus 1 in. B to T is 14 waist measure. F to 4 is over- shoulder plus 1 inch (4 seams.) From D to 18 is V2 breast measure plus 2 in. Add. from 18 to I 1 inch. Place the corner of the square on J with the long arm resting on T, and square out to 5. J to J J is 1 inch (4 seams.) JJ to 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder. Rule a line from 4 through 5 to 6 placing 6,1/3 over-shoulder above 5. Square across at 6. 8 is V^ inch (2 seams) above J J. Place the back part with point N resting on 8 and A resting on the cross line squared out at 6. With the back part in this position, rule lines from A to S and from the waist line at 10 up to C. 9 is the crossing point of this two lines. Curve the centre front line from A through I, and 15. Mark 11 the same amount above 5 as N is above J. Curve the neck circle from C through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line J-E is made from J. Measure the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; locating 17 on the 10-C line. Curve the armhole through the guiding points as shown. Mark 3 from 2, one inch more than 13 is from 27. Chalk the bottom from 13 to 14. D.B. FROCK-COAT. 8 CORPULENT MAN'S CUTAWAY. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Fashion waist length Full length Over-shoulder 10 in. Blade measure 133^in 171/2- Strap measure 13%,, 191/4 „ Breast measure 42 ,. 39 ,, Waist measure 44 „ 20 „ Seat measure 44 ,, Rule line A B. Mark C one-sixth over-shoul- der from A. C to D, scye depth. C B nat- uralwaist-length. C to full length. B to F is one inch. Place E one-third over-shoul- der above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G, V2 over-shoulder below F. C to FF, is fashion waist-length. Square out from E, H,F,FF and G. G to W is II/4 inches. Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is V^ over-shoulder plus V^ inch. N is midway between J and M. Connect A N. Place P from E, V2 over-shoulder less % inch. Q from D, V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. Mark R Vi over-shoulder above Q. R to S is V^ over-shoulder. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or to desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M-0 down to V, V2 over-shoulder less V^ in; locating V in the centre of the lines M-L and P-Q. B to 21 is 14 over-shoulder; form pleat edge from 21 to the bottom. Make 20 mid- way Q and H. Curve from R through 20 and 21. Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder below 20. Take out 1 inch between back part and side- body at 7, and IVi inches from 21 to 23. Curve the side body from y^ inch above R, through 20, 7 and 23 to 24; Placing 24, 1/4 inch below the fashion waist-line. Make U from 23, Vi over-shoulder less 1/2 inch. Raise 25, 1/2 inch above the fashion waist-line Chalk from 24 to 25. Shape the side seam from V through U to 25. Cut out the back; the top part through the lines C-A, A-N and N-L. The width of the back neck is regulated later on in harmony with the forepart. The placing of the shoulder seam also may be done afterward. Lay the back part on the paper and continue the lines F, FF and G. From W to Y is over- shoulder. Place the number of V2 over-shoul- der on Y and mark at Z, Vi waist measure. Place the amount of the back skirt on Z, and make 19, half seat and V2 inch. Raise 27 the difference between y^ waist and Vi seat plus half the distance Y-Z above 24. Drop 26 IV2 inches below the fashion waist line. Chalk the pleat edge from 27 through 19 to 13 and the waist seam from 27 through 25 to 26. 1 is 3 inches from Z. Square up and down to 2 and 3; Star is V2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is always 2 inches from star. From star to 15 is V4 waist plus 1 in. B to T is Vi waist. F to 4 is overshoulder plus 1 inch (4 seams.) Place the corner of the square on J with the long arm resting on T, and square out to 5. J to JJ is 1 inch (4 seams.) J J to 5 is y^ over- shoulder. Rule a line from 4 through 5 to 6 placing 6, V3 over-shoulder and 2 .seams above 5. Square across at 6. 8 is V2 inch (2 seams) above JJ. BP is 1/3 half breast below 5. Rule from L through BP to I; From D to I is 1/2 breast plus 3 inches. Place the back part with point N resting on 8, and A resting on the cross line squared out at 6. With the back part in this position, rule lines from A to S and from the waist line at 10, up to C. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; locating 17 on the 10-C line. Apply the strap measure from 17 to C; without addi- tion. Raise or lower 6 and 8 as much as the direct strap measure may determine; the dif- ference between direct and divisional strap measure, will increase or decrease the round- ness for shoulders and blades; if the direct measure is less, one half of the difference is added to the round curve of the side body as shown in diagram; the other is added to the roundness of the shoulder seam; which pro- vides for a more fitting neck part; neces- sary for this sort of figures. In cases where the strap measure reaches be- yond C, the process must be worked out in the opposite way. BC is obtained squaring out from T by J and T; lay the one arm of the square on T, the other touching Z, and square down; BC will be found at the corner of the square. Square also down by the nat- ural waist line; having corner touching B-C, and Zline; this will determine the actual v to be taken out in the fore part. Closing the broken lines in the skirt, it will open fore- part and skirt the necessary amount. 9 is the crossing point of lines A-S and C-10. Curve the centre front line from A through I. and 15. Mark 11 the same amount above 5 as N is above J. Curve the neck circle from C through 9 and 11. MarJc at 12 as much from 8 as the back on J- E line is made from J. Curve the armhole through the guiding points as shown. Add. 3^ inch for overlap at I, and V2 inch at 15. Shape front and bottom to style. CORPULENT MAN'S CUTAWAY. 10 S.B. SACK-COAT. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure 9 in. 163/4,, 291/2,, 17 ,, 11% „ Strap measure Breast measure Waist measure Seat measure 121/4 In. 36 ,, 32 ,, 37 ,, Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. C to full length. B to F is one inch. Place E Vs over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. G to W is 114 inches. Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is V2 over-shoulder less % inch. Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs over- shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. (0 falls in this case on M.) If there is difference between M and O, than measure from the centre of M O down to V 1/2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. F to U is made V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. X from G is made 1/2 over-shoulder less y^ in. Curve side seam from V through U and X. Hollow back seam % of a inch. Cut out the back. In cutting out the back pattern, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L, must be left on as it is required in making gorge and shoulder of the fore part. It will be seen that a better shaping of the gorge can be made corresponding with the back. Place the back pattern on the paper and con- tinue the lines F and G. Make Y over-shoulder from W. Place the number of V2 over-shoulder on Y and mark Z at Vi waist measure. Measure from W to X; place that quantity on Z, and measure back to 19 - V2 seat measure plus 1/2 inch; (2 seams,) 1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Sqaure up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star V2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from star Vi waist mea- sure plus 1 inch. 4 fi-om F is over-shoulder plus 1 inch. (4 seams.) T from B is Vi waist measure. Place the corner of the square on J with the long arm resting on T; and square out from J to 5. Place JJ 1 inch (4 seams) from J. 5 is 1/^ over-shoulder from J J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, Vs over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch (2 seams) above 5. 8 is 1/2 inch (2 seams) above J J. BP is Va breast mea- below 5. Rule from L over BP to I. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the 1/2 breast measure plus 2 in. I is 1 inch from 18. Mark 7, V^ over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 inch at 7 and % from U to K ; between back and fore part side seams. Curve the side seam from V through 7, K and 19. Make 13 from K to correspond with U 22. Swing the back with point N on 8, and A res- ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Rule the centre front line from A, through I locating a. What [a] falls beyond 15 is the surplus in the front waist. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8, as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- ting 17, on the line C-10. Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown. Half of the surplus between 15 and a is token away by a dart from under the most promi- nent part of the chest the other half out on top of the lapel. Mark 3 from 2, 1 inch more than 22 is from U. Complete front and bottom to style. S.B. SACK-COAT. 12 CORPULENT MAN'S S.B. SACK-COAT. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth 11 in. Strap measure Natural waist length .. 19 ,, Breast measure Full length 321/2 „ Waist measure Over-shoulder 21 ,, Seat measure Blade measure 15 ., 151/2 in. 47 „ 5U ,, 50 .. Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. C to BB full length. B to F is one inch. Place E V3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G 1/2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. G to W is ll^ inches. Place J from E, V^ over-shoulder plus V^ inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is V^ over-shoulder plus V2 inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is V^ over-shoulder less y^ inch. Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is 14 over- shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. (O falls in this case on M.) If there is difference between M and O, than measure from the centre of M O down to V V2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. F to U is made V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. X from G is made 1/2 over-shoulder less % in. Curve side seam from V through U and X. Hollow back seam % of a inch. Cut out the back. In cutting out back pattern the piece C-A, A-N N-L must be left on as it is required, in making neck and shoulder part and front shoulder. Place the back pattern on the paper and con- tinue the lines F and G. Make Y over-shoulder from W. Place the number of V2 over-shoulder on Y and mark Z at Vi waist measure. Measure from W to X; place that quantity on Z, and measure back to 19 - 14 seat measure plus 1/2 inch; (2 seams,) 1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Sqaure up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star V^ over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from star Vi waist mea- sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder plus 1 inch. (4 seams. ) T from B is Vi waist measure. Place the corner of the square on J with the long arm resting on T; and square out from J to 5. Place JJ 1 inch (4 seams) from J. 5 is V2 over-shoulder from J J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, 1/3 over-shoulder plus V2 inch (2 seams) above 5. 8 is V^ inch (2 seams) above J J. BP is V3 breast mea- below 5. Rule from L over BP to I. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the i/j breast measure plus 2 in. I is 1 inch from 18. Mark 7, V4 over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 inch at 7 and % from U to K ; between back and fore part side seams. Curve the side seam from V through 7, K and 19. Make 13 from K to correspond with U 22. Swing the back with point N on 8, and A res- ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8, as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- ting 17, on the line C-10. Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown. Mark 3 from 2, 1 inch more than 22 is from U. Complete front and bottom to style. To take away the surplus of material below the waist line square a line down to EE by the waist line over the front edge of pocket lay the square with the short arm on JJ-5- the other touching the point where EE line crosses the waist line and rule down. Cut the hip cut from OZ and pocket mouth. Pleat AA over to EE line to obtain the cut out of pocket mouth. CORPULENT MAN'S S. B. SACK-COAT. 13 14 STOUT FIGURE MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure THE BACK-PART. Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- der belowf A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. C to BB full length. B to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E, H,F and G by E-G line. G to W is l'/4 inches. Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3^ inch. Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. R is Vi over-shoul- der above Q; S is Vfe over-shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth and 1 in. or desi- red shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V V2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. Make U from F, i/^ over-shoulder less 1 inch. X from G is made V2 over-shoulder less 3^ in. Curve the back side seam from V through U and X. Hollow back seam % of a in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L must be left on. THE FORE-PART. Place the back pattern on another piece of paper and continue the lines F and G. From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the difference between 1/2 over- shoulder and 14 waist. 1 is placed 3 mches from Z. Square up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Star is 1/2 ovei - shoulder from 2; 10 from STAR is 2 inches. 15 from STAR is Vi waist and 1 in. 4 from F is over-shoulder and 1 in. (4 seams.) T from B is Vi waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J ; and square out to 5. J to J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) .5 is V2 over-shoul- der from .1.1. 8 is V2 inch (2 seams. 1 above 101/4 in. Strap measure 18 ,, Breast measure 32 ,, Waist measure 20 ,, Seat measure 131/2,. 147/8 in 44 „ 43 ,, 46 ,. J J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, 1/3 over-shoulder and I/2 in. above 5. BP is one sixth breast b?low 5. Rule from L over BP to I. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to I, — I/2 breast mea- sure and 3 in. What 1/2 seat measure exceeds I/2 waist mea- sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 3i/^ inches. Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 inch at 7, and % in. from U to K. Measure the back from W to X, place that quantity on Z and make 19 1/2 seat and V^ in. Curve the fore part side seam from V, through K and 19 to 13. Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- ting 17, on the line C-10. Curve the scye as indicated. The broken line as ruled down from A at the cross-line at 6 through I indicates the arching of the chest; point I is the most forward part of chest. Cut broken line from top of lapel to I; thereafter pleat B over to 15 this will open the lapel the exact amout -the place for (V) is not tied down to the broken line A I, but can be placed at the option of the cutter; an effective curved (V) is shown per broken lines. To take away the superfluously mate- rial below the waist-line a line is squared down by the waist-line through frontedge of pocket to EE; thereafter squared down by lire J J 5 crossing the EE line at BC. Cut hip cut from OZ and also pocket-mouth; this will enable to pin or fod broken line AA over to EE. Comple'Le to style. i STOUT MAN'S S. B. SACK-COAT. 15 16 TALL FIGURE WITH SLOOPING SHOULDERS AND PROMINENT HIPS. MEASUREM ENTS. Scve depth Natural waist length Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure 11 in. 181/2.. 323/4,. 173/4,. 121/2,. THE BACK-PART. Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. C to BB full length. B to F is one inch. Place E V3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G y-i ovp --shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. G to W is 114 inches. Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3^ inch. Q from D 14 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule fiom Q through P. R is Vi over-shoul- der above Q; S'is V^ over-shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth and 1 in. or desi- red shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V 1/2 over-shoulder less V^ inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. Make U from F, 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. X from G is made i/^ over- shoulder less 3^ in. Curve the back side seam from V through U and X. Hollow back seam % of a in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L must be left on. THE FORE-PART. Place the back pattern on another piece of paper and continue the lines F and G. From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the difference between 1/2 over- shoulder and y^ waist. 1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Square up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Star is 1/2 over- shoulder from 2; 10 from star is 2 inches. 15 from star is % waist and 1 in. 4 from F is over-shoulder and 1 in. (4 seams.) T from B is Vi waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on .1 ; and square out to ^. Strap measure Breast measure Waist measure Seat measure 123^ in- 38 ,. 36 ,, 421/2 .. J to JJ is 1 in. (4 seams.) 5 is 1/2 over-shoul- der from JJ. 8 is V2 inch (2 seams.) above J J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, 1/3 over-shoulder and 1/2 in. above 5. BP is one sixth breast b3low 5. Rule from L over BP to I. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to I, — 1/2 breast mea- sure and 3 in. What 1/2 seat measure exceeds V^ waist mea- sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 314 inches. [IN A CASE LIKE THIS WHERE 1/2 SEAT 1/2 WAIST MORE THAN 2 IN. EXCEEDS, AND NO SEAM RUNS DOWN OVER THE HIPS, THE BACK PATTERN IS SHOVED BACK THE EXCEEDING AMOUNT less 1/2 INCH (3/4 inch in this case.) FROM J TO J AND FROM L TO L.] Mark 7, 14 over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 inch at 7, and y^ in. from U to K. Measure the back from W to X, place that quantity on Z and make 19 1/2 seat and 1/2 in. Curve the fore part side seam from V, through K and 19 to 13. Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- ting 17, on the line C-lO. Curve the scye as indicated. Complete to style. The space, wich J and L being shoved back, must be taken out of the under arm or hip cut; with the understanding, that it runs parallel down from the scye to the waist line; springing out in the pocket mouth. TALL FIGURE WITH SLOOPING SHOULDERS AND PROMINENT HIPS. 18 SACK-COAT FOR HIGH SHOULDERED FIGURE. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure 8 in. Strap measure ... 161/4,, Breast measure ... 29 ,, Waist measure ... 171/4., Seat measure ... 111/4 „ 123/4 in. 36 ,, 32 ,, 37 .. A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. B ,, natural waist length from C. BB is full length from C. C is one sixth over-shoulder below A. D ,, scye depth below C. E ,, 1/3 over-shoulder above D. F ,, 1 inch from B. G is 1/2 over-shoulder below F. H ,, located by an square line ruled down from E by ,1 and E. I is 1 inch from liS. J is 1/2 over-shoulder and 1/2 in. from E. JJ is 1 inch (4 seams.) from J. K is % inch from U. L ,, squared down from J by J and E. ^ << V2 over-shoulder plus I/2 inch above L. N is midway J and M and connected with A. ,, scye depth above L. f* ., 1/2 over-shoulder less % in. from E. Q ,. i/i over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. R ., V4 over-shoulder above Q. 5 ., Vs over-shoulder above R. T ,, Vi waist from B. U ,. 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 in. from F. V is 1/2 over-shoulder below the centre of M- O, less 1/2 in. W is 11/4 in. from G. X ,, made i^ seat from G. Y is over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V^ over-shoulder and 14 waist from Y. STAR is 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. BP is one sixth breast below 5. 1 is ;{ inches from Z. 2 .. squared uj) by W and 1. .3 ., squared down by W and 1. 4 ., over-shoulder from F and 1 in. (4 seams) .5 , , squared by T and J and 1/2 over-shoulder from J . 6 is 1/3 over-shoulder and 1/2 inch above 5. 7 is V4 over-shoulder below Q. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and fore part 8 is Vi in. (2 seams.) above JJ. 9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. 11 .. 12 .. the 1.5 is 16 as much above 5. as N is above J. as much from JJ as the back edge on line J-E is made from J. 1/4 waist and 1 inch from STAR, the centre point of the shoulder. 17 ,, located by the direct strap measure from D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- sed position; deviations in regard to the up- per structure, included "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc. "have to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures. 17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi- cates the deviations in the upper structure of shoulders neck and blades. Apply strap measure up from 17 to C, with- out addition; raise or lower the line A— S as much in parallel as the direct strap measure may determine; if direct strap is less, one half of it is added to roundness of the blade the other half is added to the roundness of shoulder seam. In cases where the strap reaches beyond C, the process must be worked out in the op- posite way. 18 is Vi breast plus 2 inches from U. 19 is 1/2 seat less back quantity W-X. from Z. In sack-coats where V^ seat 1/2 waist-mea- sure not more than 2 in. exceeds, nothing needs to be taken out of hip-cut. Correct fronts are obtained in the same way as explained on pages 10 and 40. Add. for over-lap from center line according to style. HIGH SHOULDERED FIGURE. 20 STOOPING OR ROUND BACK FIGURES. In daily practice these figures we meet in a great varity of form and attitudes— it is important in those kind of figures to observe where the deviation or roundness is most remarkable; — the rest will be envolved by the system it self. It is a natural phenomeon that an round back furnishes a larger over-shoulder than should have been the case were the figure of a normal or erect attitude. (The dotted lines in Dia. illu- strate the outline of upper structure for a figure having the same over-shoulder mea- sure, but with a regular attitude. ) The enlarged over-shoulder measure widens the spaces E— J, and JJ— 5; and accordingly to this, it moves point 6 in a more forward position. The longer scye depth provides a longer distance A— N, and this in connec- tion with point 8, provides for a more shoved forward neck-part; it also with regard to 10 and C, performs a more bringing forward of the front of scye. The application of direct strap-measure restores the distances 5 -6 and L -J which for this fore-part shoulder is to large; — the direct strap measure lowers line A— 8 in parallel, but it must be understood that, although the length of line 17— C has to be shortened and also on the arm-side of fore part, the distance 17— D has to remain intact. The distance be- tween the parallel lines on the centre of the shoulder must be divided equally and, on the blades, and on the shoulder; —where this dividing on the blades in the real sence is not an as easy matter as for a "Frock-coat," the quantity is added to back seam or crease; the other half is left on the shoulder which provides for a more close fitting neck-part and on arm-side. SLEEVES. LADIES and MEN'S SLEEVES are both Curve the sleeve head from A through H, G the same in construction. to L. Measure fore-armlength from E to B. Square out and down from A to C and B. At the length even if reaching below or above A to D is IVi in. D to B is over-shoulder. B, square out to O by E— B line. A to C is 14 over-shoulder. Rule from B Make B to O width of the bottom. From E through C to G, locating E. E to F is Vi to P is the difference between scye-depth over-shoulder. and natural waist-length. ( Letter P is mis- Square out from F to H and J. Place G as sing in this Dia. but her position will be much above F, as 12 in the fore part pat- known as it is understood that Q is squared tern is made from 8. (or, from J in coats out from P by E B line. ) Make Q from P, where not for seams is allowed as usually the same as from B. not is done in "Ladies" coats.) Chalk from L through Q to O; and from K Mark H and J each one-sixth over-shoulder to Q. Mark S V2 in- inside of R. from F. J to K is 1 inch; J to L the same. Curve from A through S and B; add 1 inch From A to N is 1/2 in. more than the distance beyond this for the top, and go 1 inch in- between 17 and Q in the coat pattern. wards for under sleeve. 22 OVER-COAT. The over-coat is also measured over vest as this is the best way to obtain correct measures. Add. to scye depth 1/2 in., for over-shoulder 3/4 in., for blade 1 in., for stiaj) 1% in. and loi - Breast— Waist— and Seat, each 3 inches. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure lU in. Strap measure 17% ,, Breast measure 41 ,, Waist measure 20 ,, Seat measure 13 ,. .1, 'A I 42 44 '/2 Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. C to BB full length. B to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G y2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. G to W is 11/4 inches. Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. Square up and down from J tc M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less % inch. Q from D Va over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is 1/4 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs over- shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width. is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M down to V, 1/2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. Make U from F, 1/2 over-shoulder less 34 in. X from G is V2 over-shoulder. Curve the back side seam from V through U and X to 22. What 1/2 seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist mea- sure is called:— "excess."— In this case the excess is 23^ inches. 19 is made the excess from X. Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder below Q; take out 1 inch at 7, and ^4 in. from U to K. Shape the fore part side-seam from V through 7, K and 19 to 13. From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 over- shoulder and 14 waist. 1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Square up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark IB from STAR 1/4 waist mea- sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shculder- and 1 in. T from B is V4 waist measure. Place the square with the long aim on 1, the corner resting on J ; and square out to 5 . J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) from J; S is V2 inch above JJ. 5 is V2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6. 73 over-shoulder and V2 in- above 5. BP is one sixth breast b^low 5. Rule from L ovei BP to 18. Measure from D at ihe back sea'u over L and BP to 18, the V2 breast measure plus 3 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A. A-N and N-L must be left on. Sway the back with point N on J, and A tes- ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5. as N is a- bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- ting 17, on the line C-10. Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown. It is not a necessity to cut a V in top of lapd or to pleat over the under part;— as shown in this Dia. the broken line is lultdstraigth down from A to 15 on the waist-line. Having shaped front and gorge, the broken line may be cut to 15; inoving that line with 15 holding in its place over to 1 in. beyond 18, it opens the lapel in an V which avoids working in with stay-tape. —Those who pre- fer to work up .the fronts, care must be used to have them worked shoit the just amount. Make lower part of front, pai'allel with 2—1. S. B. OVER COAT- 24 SLIP-ON. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure 10 in. 17y4 ,, 44 ,, 20 ,, 13 ,. Strap measure Breast measure Waist measure Seat measure 14 42 38 44 The same additions as given on foregoing page hold good for the different measures in this kind of coats. Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. C to BB full length. B to F is one inch. Place E Vs over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V^ over-shoulder below F. Square out from E, H,F and G by E-G line. G to W is 1% inches. Place J from E, y^ over-shoulder plus V2 inch. Square up and down from J tc M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is V2 over-shoulder less % inch. Q from D V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is Vs over- shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. To produce the desired fulness on back and round hips, the blade measure has to undergo an increasing by way of space U K; which in this case amounts 2V2 in. while V2 seat mea- sure has undergone 3 times that much which brings the "excess" up to IOV2 inches. In this case the scye dei)th is lowerd IV2 in. As will be observed, the front of scye remains intact as do all other fitting points; the only altera- tion this coat diagram has under gone is in its style. X and 22 are located by ruling down from N through K, while the bottom curve to 22 is obtained by sweeping out with S as an pivot, from where the line S Q crosses the length. 19 is made the excess from X. From U is ruled down through 19 to 13. From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between 1/2 over- shoulder and 14 waist. 1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Square up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from star 14 waist mea- sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder- and 1 in. T from B is Vi waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J ; and square out to 5 . J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) from J; 8 is V2 inch above JJ. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 thi-ough 5 to 6; placing 6, Va over-shoulder and V2 in. above 5. BP is one sixth breast b3low 5. Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the y2 breast measure plus 3 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L must be left on. Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from 8 as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- ting 17, on the line C-10. Curve the scye as indicated. Complete to style. SLIP-ON. 26 THE LOWER SIDE. figures in which one side or shoulder is lower than the other, there usually are (2) different eye -depths and also (two) over-shoulder mea- sures. The lower side usually shows more scye-depth and a larger over-shoulder. The Diagram is constructed by a difference of one inch in scye depth the over-shoulder is increased the same quantity for that side. The different measurements of course, need each apart attention or two drawings. When one understands the construction of previous Diagrams, he cannot go astray with this one. Special attention is called to che V in top of the lapel, which is only cut in for the higher side which is in accordance to the given con- structions with regard to broken line from A through 1 thus, what will be noticed restoring equilibrium again with regard to top button. V ESTS. Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. B to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through to F. Square out from E,H,F. Place J from E, 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. Square uj) and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is V2 over-shoulder less % inch. Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. R is 14 over-shoul- der above Q; S is Vfe over-shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth or desired shoul- width. is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V V2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. Make U from B, 1/2 over-shoulder and IV2 in. Mark 7 % over-shoulder below the scye-depth line. Curve the back from scye through U. From B to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 over- shoulder and i/i waist. 4 from F is over-shoulder and V2 in. (2 seams) T from B is Vi waist measure. Z from 2 is 2^4 inches. Star is V2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on .1 ; and square out to r,. .1 to .J.J is 1/2 in. (2 seams.) 8 is V2 in. above JJ. n is V2 over- shoulder from JJ. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, V3 over-shoulder and V2 in. above 5. BP is one sixth breast b?low .5. Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the 1/2 breast measure plus IV2 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the jiiece C-A, A-N and N-L must be left ^m. Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Rule a straigth line from A at the cross line through 18. Mark star Vi waist measure from 15; what 1.5 falls inside of this broken line can be taken out from under the most prominent part of chest. Apply opening and length; add V2 in. for over lap. Shape scye, side seam and bottom. Take out V2 in. at 7 the other V2 in. is taken on the same level out of back-seam or by way of a V as indi- cated. For corpulent or stout waisted figu- res, square down by waist-line at 4 and also by J— 5 line, crossing the same point as is desribed in SACK-COATS. 28 MILITARY TUNIC. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth ... 93/4 in. Strap measure Natural waist length . ... 17 ,, Breast measure Full length . ... 281/2 „ Waist measure Over-shoulder . ... 173/4.. Seat measure Blade measure . ... 113/4.. 121/4 in. 38 ,. 34 ,, 40 ,. Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. C to BB full length. B to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E.H.F and G by E-G line. G to W is IVi inches. Place J from E. V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is V2 over-shoulder plus V^ inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is V2 over-shoulder less 3^ inch. Q from D V2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe over- shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V. 1/2 over-shoulder less V^ inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L.and P-Q. Make 20 to taste; (in this case 20 is made midway between Q and D; 21 one sixth over- shoulder from B, X from W a trifle more. ) Curv« side-body from R through 20, 21 and X to bottom. Mark 7, V4 over-shoulder be- low 20; take out 1 inch at 7. and IVi inches from 21 to 23. The hip or seat measure must be divided be- tween W and Z. From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 over- shoulder and 14 waist. What V^ seat measure exceeds V2 waist mea- sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 3 inches. In this case HI is made Vi seat and 1 in. from W. KL is made the difference between y^ seat and Vi waist from HI. If -excess- is placed on hips, and close fitting round seat is desired, in such a case point 19 has to fall on X. Curve from V^ inch above R through 20, 7, 23 and 19 to 13. Curve also down from scye through HI and KL. 1 is placed 3 inches from Z. Sqaure up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star V2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from star 14 waist mea- sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder- and 1 in. T from B is Vi waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J ; and square out to 5 . J J is 1 in. (4 seams.) from J; 8 is V^ inch above JJ. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6. V3 over-shoulder above 5. BP is one sixth breast b^low 5. Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to I. the 1/2 breast measure plus 3 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L must be left on. Sway the back with point N on J. and A res- ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5. as N is a- bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- ting 17, on the line C-10. Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown. Rule a straight line from A at the cross line through I —what this line on the waist line falls beyond 15, is for % of it taken out on top dismissing in the breast pocket, the rest from under the most prominent part of the chest as shown; — or, cut the pattern from gorge through centre of pockets, put a pin in at the line L — BP, and move the centre line to run parallel with line 1 — 2. MILITARY TUNIC. 30 COLLARS. With the pattern laying in the shoulder clo- sed position, sweep from C through E. Mark F Vi over-shoulder below C. E from C depth of stand; G from F the same. With the one arm of the square touching G and E, square out to D and extend that line lO J; from E to J is stand-depth, E— J leaf- edge. Mark of turn at K and chalk from G to K. Mark H from G as much as G is from F; — fold the lapel to K, and trace from L to H. Shape back-side according to style. In military collars to provide for more length on shoulders to avoid to much stretching, the back line J — D is squared out by F— E. Apply length F— Y from G to K. L is Vi in- above K. Complete as indicated. MILITARY-OVERCOAT. A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. B ,, natural waist length from C. BB is full length from C. C is one sixth over-shoulder below A. D ,, scye depth below C. E ,, V3 over-shoulder above D. F ,, 1 inch from B. G is V2 over-shoulder below F. H ,, located by an square line ruled down from E by J and E. J is V^ over-shoulder and 1/2 in. from E. JJ is 1 inch (4 seams.) from J. I is is 1/2 breast plus 3 inches from D. L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. N is midway J and M and connected with A. ,, scye depth above L. P ,, V2 over-shoulder less % in. from E. Q .. V2 over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. R ,. Vi over-shoulder above Q. S ,, 14 over-shoulder above R. T ,, Vi waist from B. U ,, V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from F. W is IVi in. from G. X ,, made Vi seat from G. Y is over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and 14 waist from Y. STAR is 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. BP is one sixth breast below 5. 1 is 3 inches from Z. 2 ,. squared up by W and 1. 3 ,, squared down by W and 1. 4 ,, over-shoulder from F and 1 in. (4 seams) 5 ,, squared by T and J and 1/2 over-shoulder from J J. 6 is V3 over-shoulder and V^ inch above 5. 7 is Vi over-shoulder below Q. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and fore part 8 is 1/2 in- (2 seams.) above JJ. 9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. 11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ,, as much from J J as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is 14 waist and 1 inch from STAR. 16 ,, the centre point of the shoulder. 17 ,, located by the direct strap measure from D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- sed position; deviations in regard to the up- per structure, included "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc. "have to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures. 17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi- cates the deviations in the up)per structure of shoulders neck and blades. Apply strap measure up from 17 to C, with- out addition; raise or lower the line A — S as much in parallel as the direct strap measure may determine; if direct strap is less, one half of it is added to roundness of the blade the other half is added to the roundness of shoulder seam. In cases where the strap reaches beyond C, the process must be worked out in the op- posite way. 19 is V^ seat less back quantity W-X, from Z. 32 TROUSERS. CORPULENT MAN'S TROUSERS. RIDING BREECHES. REGULAR PANTS. Outside length 431/2 in- Inseam 32 ,, Waist 49 ,, Seat 50 ,, Knee 221/2 ,, Bottom 18 ,, Square out and down from A to B and C. A to B is Vi seat; A— C out-side length; C— D in-seam; E is Vfe proportion waist above D. ( 1/2 proportion waist is adequate to over-shoul- der, less 1 inch.) H is midway G and B. Mark I from C as much as H is from A; draw a line from H to I locating N. C to L is % waist. Raise BC as much above L, as L is from B. Square down from B to J by A — B Mark K Vfe seat out from J; curve fly- front as indicated from BC to K. Make M and O Vi knee each from N; P and Q each Vi bottom less Vi inch from I. Shape side seam from a i/j inch above G through E and O to Q; also in-seam from K, through M to P. Take out V2 inch for dress. THE BACK-PART. Extend the lines A-B, E, M-0 and P-Q. Mark R Vi proportion waist above J. Square out from R to S by J-B. S from R, is the difference between 14 proportion waist, and Vi seat plus V2 in. Mark T from S, V4 seat and one inch, plus distance B, L. Place the square with one arm touching J and S, the other resting on T and square out; this will locate U. Measure waist from L to G and T to U and take out the surplus (that is what that measure the waist measure more than 1 inch exceeeds;) in a V as indicated. Mark W from V 14 seat plus 2 inches; X from K is 1 inch; Y from M and Z from O, each V^ inch. 1 from P, and 2 from Q, each 1 in. 35 y2 42 26 321/2 30 36 88 40 13 19 Calf 131/2 Bottom 15 Ankle 10 RIDING BREECHES. Riding breeches are practically the same in construction as regular trousers but, as more ease round seat and hips is needed, the dis- tance R— S is determined by a larger seat cir- cumference; say two inches more. The distan- ce J to K, may also be made accordingly to a larger seat. A allowance is made on the hips beyond E, which in this case is made two in. In drawing the back-part, the distance R — S becomes more extended by applying for this the larger seat-measure which, accordingly to this, moves U so much higher. The distance S— T, is applied by actual seat-measure. N is obtained by placing F as much from D, as H is from A; 1/2 inseam length is applied from line V-E. The bottom part is measured up accordingly to size of knee, calf and ankle; taking out the biggest cut on back of ankle. For regular and other pants, follow same in- structions as desribed for corpulent man's.— TROUSERS. 33 34 LADIES' SEMI FITTING COAT WITH FRENCH SEAM. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure 71/2 15 29 16 10% Strap measure Breast measure Waist measure Seat measure 11% in. 38 ,, 29 ,, 37 .. Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul. der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. C to BB full length. B to F is one inch. Place E Va over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G 1/2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. G to W is IVi inches. Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is V^ over-shoulder less % inch. Q from I) 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe over- shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M down to V, V2 over-shoulder less V^ inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. Make 20 to style or taste; (in this case 20 is halfway Q and D; 21 one sixth over-shoul- der from B, X from W a trifle more.) Curve from line A-N down through 20, 21 and X to bottom. Mark 7, Vi over-shoulder be- low 20; take out 1 inch at 7, and IVi inches from 21 to 23. The hip or seat measure must be divided be- tween W and Z. From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 over- shoulder and Vi waist. What 1/2 seat measure exceeds V2 waist mea- sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 4 inches. In this case HI is made V4 seat from W. KL is made the excess from HI. Place the distance X-W on Z, and make 19, Vi seat measure less the excess. Curve from 20 through 7, 23 and 19 to 13. Curve also down from scye through HI and KL. 1 is placed 2 inches from Z. Sqaure up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star V^ over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from star 14 waist mea- sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder. T from B is 14 waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J ; and square out to 5. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, V3 over-shoulder above 5. BP is one sixth bust b^low 5. Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the '/2 breast measure plus 2 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L must be left on. Sway the back with point N on J, and A res. ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- ting 17, on the line C-10. Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown. Rule a straight line from A at the cross line through 18 to 3; the distance which this on the waistline falls beyond 15, is for % of it taken out of bust seam. The waistline runs parallel with the line L — BP. Mark 26 1 in. more below 4 as BB is from B. Add for overlap and shape front and bottom. (See article for more details on page 47.) LADIES' SEMI-FITTING COAT WITH FRENCH SEAM. 36 CLOSE FITTING COAT for STOUT LADIES' FIGURES. MEASUREMENTS. Scye depth Natural waist length Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure 81/4 16 31 18 121/4 Strap measure Breast measure Waist measure Seat measure 127/8 in- 47 ,. 36 ., 50 .. Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul. der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. C to BB full length. B to F is one inch. Place E Va over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G V2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E. H,F and G by E-G line. G to W is 114 inches. Place J from E, V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is V2 over-shoulder less "^/^ inch. Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is 14 over-shoulder above Q; S is Vfe over- shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V, V^ over-shoulder less '/2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. Make 20 to style or taste; (in this case 20 is halfway Q and D; 21 one sixth over-shoul- der from B, X from W a trifle more. ) Curve from line A-N down through 20, 21 and X to bottom. Mark 7, 14 over-shoulder be- low 2S)\ take out 1 inch at 7, and I14 inches from 21 to 23. The hip or seat measure must be divided be- tween W and Z. From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between V2 over- shoulder and 14 waist. What '/2 seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist mea- sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the exf'ess is 7 inches. In this case HI is made '/i over-shoulder from G. KL is made the difference between % sea" and 14 waist from HI. Make hip lines the excess apart, less the distance HI, KL. If -excess- is placed on hips, and close fitting round seat is desired, in such a case point 19 has <^() fall on X, Curve from 20 through 7. 2-! nnd 19 to V.\. Curve also down from scye through HI and KL. 1 is placed 2 inches from Z. Sqaure up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from star Vi waist mea- sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder. T from B is Vi waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T, the corner resting on J ; and square out to 5. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, Vs over-shoulder above 5. BP is one sixth bust b3low 5. Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the 1/2 breast measure plus 2 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L must be left on. Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- ting 17, on the line C-10. Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown. Rule a straight line from A at the cross line through 18 to 1 !, locating A on the waist- line; the distance 15— A determines the sur- plus of front waist; % of this is taken out of the first bust-seam the rest Va, is token out from C to D— the top of this being lo- cated squaring out by the centre front-line over BP— on this square the front-piece was made V4 over-shoulder. Place the width of front- piece, (distance from centre-line to E.) behind 1, in this case less two inches which is token out of the second space. ( AlihaheMcaiy d 'sription on page 45.) CLOSE FITTING COAT FOR STOUT LADIES FIGURE. 38 COAT FOR CORPULENT LADIES' FIGURE. Scye depth Natural waist length Full length Over-shoulder Blade measure MEASUREMENTS. 7% in. Strap measure Breast measure Waist measure Seat measure 14 36 161/2 111/2 Rule line A B. Mark C one sixth over-shoul- der below A. C to D scye depth; C-B nat- ural waist length. C to BB full length. B to F is one inch. Place E 1/3 over-shoulder above D. Rule from E through F to G. Mark G 1/2 over-shoulder below F. Square out from E,H,F and G by E-G line. G to W is 11/4 inches. Place J from E, i/^ over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. Square up and down from J to M and L. L to M is 1/^ over-shoulder plus 1/2 inch. N is midway between M and J. Connect A and N. P from E is 1/2 over-shoulder less 3/j inch. Q from D 1/2 over-shoulder less 1 inch. Rule from Q through P. The bottom of the back part is squared by this line. R is Vi over-shoulder above Q; S is V^ over- shoulder above R. Rule from A through S. On this line from A, apply scye depth plus 1 inch or desired shoulder width. O is scye depth above L. Measure from the centre of M O down to V, 1/2 over-shoulder less V2 inch; locating V, in the centre of the lines M-L,and P-Q. Make 20 to style or taste; (in this case 20 is 14 over-shoulder from D; 21 one sixth over- shoulder from B, X from W a trifle more. ) Curve from line A-N down through 20, 21 and X to bottom. Mark 7, y^ over-shoulder be- low 20; take out 1 inch at 7, and IVi inches from 21 to 23. The hip or seat measure must be divided be- tween W and Z. From W to Y is over-shoulder; the space Y-Z represents the different between 1/2 over- shoulder and 14 waist. What 1/2 seat measure exceeds 1/2 waist mea- sure is called:— "excess. "— In this case the excess is 4 inches. In this case HI is made 14 seat and 1 in. from (i. KL is made the difference between Vi seat and Vi waist from HI. If -excess- is placed on hips, and close fitting round seat is desired, in such a case point 19 has to fall on X, Curve from 20 through 7, 23 and 19 to 1.^. Curve also down from scye through HI and 121/4 in. 45 ,. 36 ., 44 .. KL. 1 is placed 2 inches from Z. Sqaure up and down from 1 to 2 and 3. Place star i^ over-shoulder from 2. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. Mark 15 from STAR 14 waist mea- sure plus 1 inch. 4 from F is over-shoulder. T from B is 14 waist measure. Place the square with the long arm on T. the corner resting on J ; and square out to 5. 5 is 1/2 over-shoulder from J. Rule up from 4 through 5 to 6; placing 6, 1/3 over-shoulder above 5. BP is one sixth bust b?low 5. Rule from L over BP to 18. Measure from D at the back seam over L and BP to 18, the 1/2 breast measure plus 2 in. Cut, or trace out the back pattern. In cutting or tracing out the back, the piece C-A, A-N and N-L must be left ,;n. Sway the back with point N on J, and A res- ting on the cross line squared out from 6. With the back pattern in this position, rule lines from A to S, and from the waist line at 10, up to C. 9 is the crossing point of these two lines. Mark 11 the same quantity above 5, as N is a- bove J. Curve the neck part and gorge from C, through 9 and 11. Mark 12 as much from J as the back on the line J E, is made from J. Apply the over-shoulder measure from D over the centre of the shoulder down to 17; loca- ting 17, on the line C-10. Curve the arm hole through the guiding points as shown. Rule a straight line from A at the cross line through 18 to 3, locating 15 on the waist- line; what the distance 15— STAR— exceeds 14 waist and 1 inch is for % of it taken out of the bust seam on the waist-line; ( the waist-line runs parallel with line L — BP. ) the rest I/3, is gathered into fulness, plaited or cut out. Mark 26 1 inch more below 4 as BB is below B. Having obtained the line to 26, corpulency must be dealt with in same way as in men's coats that's to say. square down by natural waist-line and thereafter, crossing the same pidnt ;it the waist-line by .1 .') lint'. COAT FOR CORPULENT LADIES FIGURE. 40 LADIES LONG LOOSE-FITTING COAT. This Dia. may serve as a example for construction of all loose-fitting coats as well for Men's as Ladies'-and special attention is called to the space of 1 inch taken out at 7. — Though it may look strange for a loose fitting coat to take any out at that part, it nevertheless this, is necessary if a good fitting coat round neck, shoulders, scye and de- sired back-effect is wanted ;-omitting this would result in putting the whole neck and shoulder part in disorder, while also the so much desired (Balmacaan-effect) would stay on the hips; -taking out the space and stretching by meams of hot iron after the coat is cut, transfers the flare to back below shoulder-blades; the same happens to the fore part. — As one will see, the instructions for this are the same as for the regular coats afterward the dotted line marked from N over K is cut, opened up the desired amount, say two inches- on the line L— D and a piece is pasted under neath. A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. B ,, natural waist length from C. BE is full length from C. C is one sixth over-shoulder below A. D ,, scye depth below C. E ,, Vs over-shoulder above D. F ,, 1 inch from B. G is 1/2 over-shoulder below F. H ,, located by an square line ruled down from E by J and E. J is V2 over-shoulder and 1/2 in- from E. K is made the desired fulness from L. (In this L to K is made 2 in.) rule as shown per broken line from N through K, before cutting out the back pattern this line is cut from bottom to N thereafter opened the de- sired quantity and a piece of paper being pated or pinned underneath of it. Reshape scye and bottom. L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, 1/2 over-shoulder plus 1/2 i"ch above L. N is midway J and M and connected with A. ,, scye depth above L. P ,, 1/2 over-shoulder less % in. from E. Q ,, Vz over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. R ,, 14 over-shoulder above Q. S ,, Vs over-shoulder above R. T ,,1/4 waist from B. X ,, made Vi seat from G. V is 1/2 over-shoulder below the centre of M- O, less 1/2 in. W is 1V4 in. from G. Y is over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and Vi waist from Y. STAR is 1/2 over-shoulder from 2. BP is one sixth breast below 5. 1 is 2 inches from Z. 2 ,. squared up by W and 1. 3 ,, squared down by W and 1. 4 , , over-shoulder from F. 5 ,, squared by T and J and V2 over-shoulder from J . 6 is 1/3 over-shoulder above 5. 7 is Vi over-shoulder below L. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and fore part, 9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. 11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ,, as much from J, as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is Vi waist and 1 inch from STAR. 16 ,, the centre point of the shoulder. 17 , , located by the direct strap measure from D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- sed position; deviations in regard to the up- per structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc". have to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures. 17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi- cates the deviations in the upper structure of shoulders neck and blades. 18 is V2 breast plus 2 inches from D. 19 is V2 seat less back quantity W-X, and hip excess from Z. 22 is as much from T, as BB is from B and ruled straight down from T over X. 8 is ruled down from A in the shoulder closed position through I, and after this centre-line is cut from top to I, the lower part must be pleated over, to make the centre-line run parallel with 2—1 line and which opens the top into a V. -As will be understood, this Y may be cut from any place of neck-circle or shoulder. LADIES LONG LOOSE FITTING COAT. 42 THE SKIRT. MEASUREMENTS. Front length Hip Back 38 in. Waist 39 ,, Hips 39 ,, 29 in. 39 ,, TOP-PART. Rule line B — C. Square out from B to G. B to G is Vi propotion waist. L from G is 14 measured waist from G. L may fall inside or beyond B, that depents on the size of the waist, and accordingly to this BC has to be lowerd or raised the same amount; ( In this case where L falls inside of B, BC is lowerd the same amount. ) J is Vi proportion waist below BC; C is front-length from BC; X is Vs half seat above J; F is midway C and X. Square out from X, J, F and C. X to E is V^ seat; F to STAR the same; PR from STAR is the difference between y^ proportion waist and V^ seat. Shape the hip-line from V2 in- above G through E and straight down from E through PR to M. Apply hiplength to M. What L falls inside of B, can be taken out at H as shown by 2 and 3; — and conversely, if BC falls beyond B, it may be added into it which will keep the front-crease straigth. The broken line from K to bottom is used to adjust the pattern according to style and by that line K serves as a pivot, and any style can be made without desturbing the fitting. BACK-PART. Extend lines B, X and J— or, lay front part on top. From T to P is 14 seat. W to V is 14 seat and 2 in. TU is the same amount below T, as BC is below B. With the one arm of the square resting on TU, and the other touching V and P, draw a line from TU to U; also from U through V and P to Z; the crossing point locates U. R is as much from T, as L is from B. Curve the hip seam from R to W; N is ruled down from T through W, and made to cor- respond with the fore-part. Measure up the waist and take out the excess from 7 to 9 as indicated; apply back-length from U to Z. The broken line, even as in the fore part is used to meet sugestions of "Fashion." It will be seen that the foundation model is a narrow one, but as is shown in upper Dia. , it holds good for every style of skirt; in above illustrated toppart for a circular skirt, the points 2—3, G— R and 7—9, are simply laid together. The numberous styles, the ever changing "Fashion," makes it adviceable to use a foundation model by who's aid we can speedy preform all that Fashion suggest. ALPHABETICAL DESCRIPTION. B; from B is squared out and down. BC is as much below or above B, as L is in- side or beyond B. C is front-length from BC. E is Vi seat from X. F is halfway between C and X. G is one half proportion waist from B. H is midway B and G. J is y^ proportion waist below B. K is squared down by B and H. L is Vi waist from G. M is hi]) length from G. PR is the differenec between Vi proportion waist and Vi seat from STAR. STAR is 14 seat from F. 2—3 is equal to distance B — L. A is the pivot point by which the width of the bottom is adjusted and is squared down by the centre of R and U when a line is drawn from TU to U. P is Vi seat from T. R is as much from T, as L is from B. T by T is squared out and down to P and N. U is obtained by laying the square with one arm on TU,and the other touching V and P. TU is as much below or above T as BC is be- low or above B. V is 14 seat and 2 in. from W. W is Vi proportion waist below T. Z is back-length from U. 7—9 indicates the surplus in back -waist. SKIRT. J X 44 ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION of D.B. FROCK-COAT. DIA. ON PAGf: A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. B ,, natural waist length from C. BB is full length from C. C is one sixtn over-shoulder below A. D ,, scye depth below C. E ,, Vs over-shoulder above D. F ,, 1 inch from B. FF is fashion waist length from C. G is y^ over-shoulder below F. H ,, located by an square line ruled down from E by J and E. I locates the centre breast point at the most pushed forward place. I is V2 breast and 3 inches from D. J is 1/2 over-shoulder and 1/2 in. from E. J J is 1 inch (4 seams) from J. L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, V2 over-shoulder plus V^ inch above L. N is midway J and M and connected with A. ,, scye depth above L. t* ., V2 over-shoulder less 3^ in. from E. Q ,, V2 over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. R ,, Vi over-shoulder above Q. S ,, Vfe over-shoulder above R. T ,,1/4 waist from B. U ,, V4 over-shoulder less V2 in- from 23 or to taste. V is 1/2 over-shoulder below the centre of M- 0, less 1/2 ii. W is 114 in. from G. X ,, a trifle more than Vfe over-shoulder from W. Y is over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and V4 waist from Y. STAR is V2 over-shoulder from 1. BP is V3 breast below 5. 1 is 3 inches from Z. 2 ,. squared up by W and 1. 3 ,, squared down by W and 1. 4 ,, over-shoulder and 1 inch from F. 5 ,, squared by T and J and 1/2 over-shoulder from J J. 6 is V3 over-shoulder and V2 inch above 5. 7 is y^, ovei -shoulder below 20. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and side body. 8 is 1/2 inch above JJ and the adjuvant of N. 9 is the ciossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. 11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ,, as much from 8, as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 13 is a little more from 27 than BB is from FF. 14 is made 3 inches from 3, 15 is l^ waist and 1 inch from STAR. 16 ,, the centre point of the shoulder. 17 ,, located by the direct strap measure from D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- sed position; deviations in regard to the up- per structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc". have to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures. 18 is V2 breast plus 2 inches from D. 19 ,, V2 seat and V2 in, less the back quanti- ty from Z. 20 ,, midway Q and H. 21 ,, V^ over-shoulder from B. 23 ,, 11/4 in. from 21. 24 ,, a seam below fashion waist line. 25 ,, V2 inch above fashion waist line. 26 ,, 11/2 in. below fashion ,, ,, 27 ,, the difference between 14 waist and Vi seat above 24. Providing for seams the side body is curved from 1/2 in. above R to 20. THE LAPEL. 29 line to 31 is squared up by the seat line touching in all cases point L 29-30 is equal to the fore part. 31 is made 2Vi inches above 30. 32 ,, ,, 11/2 .. from 31. 33 ,, ,, 3 ,, ., L 34 ,, ,, 21/4 ,, ,, 29. ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION 45 CLOSE-FITTING COAT FOR STOUT LADIES FIGURE. DIA.ON PAGE 37 A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. B ,, natural waist length from C. BB is full length from C. C is one sixth over-shoulder below A. D ,, scye depth below C. E ,, Va over-shoulder above D. F ,, 1 inch from B. G is y-i over-shoulder below F. H ,, located by an square line ruled down from E by J and E. J is V2 over-shoulder and V^ in. from E. L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, V2 over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. N is midway J and M and connected with A. ,. scye depth above L. P .T V2 over-shoulder less % in. from E. Q .. V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. R ., !4 over-shoulder above Q. S ,, V^ over-shoulder above R. T ,,1/4 waist from B. U „ V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from 23. V is V2 over-shoulder below the centre of M- O, less V2 i"- W is 11/4 in. from G. Y is over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and V4 waist from Y. STAR is V2 over-shoulder from 2. BP is one sixth breast below 5. 1 is 2 inches from Z. 2 ,. squared up by W and 1. .3 .. squared down by W and 1. 4 ,, over-shoulder from F. 5 ,, squared by T and J and V2 over-shoulder from J. 6 is Va over-shoulder above 5. 7 is 14 over-shoulder below 20. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and side-piece. 9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S. 10-C through which the neck circle is curved. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. 11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ., as much from J, as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is 14 waist and 1 inch from STAR. 16 ,, the centre point of the shoulder. 17 ., located by the direct strap measure from D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- sed position; deviations in regard to the up- per structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc". have to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures. 17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi- cates the deviations in the upper structure of shoulders neck and blades. Apply strap measure up from 17 to C. with- out addition; raise or lower the line A — S as much in parallel as the direct strap measure may determine; if direct strap is less, one half of it is added to roundness of the blade the other half is added to the roundness of shoulder seam. In cases where the strap reaches beyond C, the process must be worked out in the op- posite way. 18 is ^2 breast plus 2 inches from D. 19 is V2 seat less back quantity W-X, and hip excess from Z. 23 is IVi inches from 21. KL is made the difference between Vi seat and V^ waist. 15-A this distance indicates the surplus in the front waist; % of it, is taken out between front-piece and B, the rest from C to D. E — 1 on the seat-line W-1, the distance frorn centre line to 1 is token out between fiont- piece and fore-part, less 2 inches; this 2 in. being token out of the second bust-seam. 46 ALPHABETICAL DESRIPTION FOR S.B. SACK-COAT. DIA. ON PAGE 11 A is one sixth over-shoulder above C. B ,, natural waist length from C. BB is full length from C. C is one sixth over-shoulder below A. D ,, scye depth below C. E ,, Vb over-shoulder above D. F „ 1 inch from B. G is 14 over-shoulder below F. H ,, located by an square line ruled down from E by J and E. I is 1 inch from 18. J is V2 over-shoulder and V^ in. from E. JJ is 1 inch (4 seams) from J. K is % in. from U. L ,, squared down from J by J and E. M ,, Vi over-shoulder plus V2 inch above L. N is midway J and M and connected with A. ,, scye depth above L. P ,, Vz over-shoulder less 3^ in. from E. Q .. Vi over-shoulder less 1 in. from D. R ,, V4 over-shoulder above Q. S ,, 14 over-shoulder above R. T ,, 14 waist from B. U ,, V^ over-shoulder less 1 in. from F. V is V2 over-shoulder below the centre of M- O, less 1/2 in- W is 11/4 in. from G. X ,, V2 over-shoulder less V2 i"- from W. Y is over-shoulder from W. Z ,, the difference between V2 over-shoulder and V^ waist from Y. STAR is Vi over-shoulder from 2. BP is one sixth breast below 5. 1 is 3 inches from Z. 2 ,. squared up by W and 1. 3 ,, squared down by W and 1. 4 ,, over-shoulder plus 1 in. (4 seams.) from F. 5 ,, squared by T and J and Vi over-shoulder from JJ. 6 is V^ over-shoulder plus V^ inch (2 seams;) above 5. 7 is Vi over-shoulder below Q. 1 inch is taken out at 7 between back and fore part. 8 is Vi inch (2 seams;) above J J. 9 is the crossing point of the lines A-S, 10-C through which the neck circle is curved. 10 is 2 inches from STAR. 11 ,, as much above 5, as N is above J. 12 ,, as much from 8, as the back edge on the line J-E is made from J. 15 is y^ waist and 1 inch from STAR. 16 ,, the centre point of the shoulder. 17 ,, located by the direct strap measure from D when the back is laid in the shoulder clo- sed position; deviations in regard to the up- per structure, inlcuded "Stooping, head for or backward, large or flat blades etc ".have to be worked out from this point; it must however be under stood that deviations are being determined by the direct measures. 17-C by way of the direct strap measure indi- cates the deviations in the upper structure of shoulders neck and blades. Apply strap measure up from 17 to C, with- out addition; raise or lower the line A — S as much in parallel as the direct strap measure may determine; if direct strap is less, one half of it is added to roundness of the blade the other half is added to the roundness of shoulder seam. In cases where the strap reaches beyond C, the process must be worked out in the op- posite way. 18 is 1/2 breast plus 2 inches from D. 19 is 1/2 seat less back quantity W-X, and hip excess from Z. a is located by ruling down from A through I. 15-a; this distance indicates the surplus in the front waist; % of it is taken out on top of lapel; the rest from under the most promi- nent part of the chest. 47 PRODUCING DIFFERENT STYLES OF GARMENTS by A STANDARD PATTERN. (continued from page 34. ) When I say: "This are the only models a cut- ter needs to understand", many cutter no doubt, will be surprised looking at the great varity of styles which fashion shows and crea- tes; but bear in mind that styles are produced by a foundation model and anything as pleats, fullness, flat e, or anything which appeares in fashion, is fancy made up out of a plain model. To do this needs a little artistic skill. The coat with —French-seam,— and what can be accomplished by it, should be thoroughly studied in every detail. With seams running down over blades, bust and hips, it's adapt- able for any form of figure and for all sizes- Many experienced cutter uses this to construct by its outlines nearly every style; for instance —if pleats are being wanted,— he folds pleats ready cuts the pattern where they are wanted and pleat or pleats are pasted in. The same is done with flare, fullness etc. but fitting points must be preserved; for instance— the one inch taken out at 7, may not be neglected; as this would enfeeble fitting points round neck, scye and shoulders; diagrams show different positi^ ons and means in which this inch can be taken out. To use this as a foundation model is a far faster and an safe way. — In Ladies' figures it must however not be omitted we meet just as well corpulency as in Mens' figures and even as in those, if close or smoot hanging fronts below the waistline are desired, the surplus of material must be taken away by same means as described for stout and corpulent figures. Quarter of an inch seams are allowed for all Men garments, Ladi'es garments are nett. CONTENTS. Theorem of the system page 3 How to take measuies 4 D. B. Frock-coat 6 Corpulent Man's Cut-away 8 S.B. Sack-coat 10 Corpulent Man's Sack-coat 12 Stout Man's Sack-coat 14 Tall Figure with slooping shoulders 16 High siiouldered Figure 18 Stooping Figure 20 Sleeves 20 Man's Over-coat 22 Man's Top-coat 24 The Lower side 26 Vests 26 Military Tunick 28 Collars 30 Military Burnoose 30 Trousers 32 Ladies-coat with French-seam 34 Close Fitting coat for Stout Lady 36 Corpulent Ladies coat with large bust 38 Ladies long loose-fitting coat 40 Skirt 42 Alphabetical desription for Frock-coat 44 ,, ,, ,, Ladies coat 45 ,, ,, ,, Sack-coat 46 Producing different styles by a regular style pattern 47 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS Hill I 013 973 182 7 •