^- .^'^ ^o. ':^.' .0^ ^* .^-^^^ ,0' -^^^^ ♦.;-«» ^ Vc<^ 1 ' * * ' "^ . .. •^^.^ oV'^^ll^'. '^ov^^ ;j^l^*« -^t^o^ •'^la*. ^o^ -dSli^^\ ^-^^.^i :^<^^'. ^-c-^^ ^' .0 •V* ~ '^o^ 'bV ■o, '-TIT'- A V . »*"^ . -.OT*:-' .s -■-. -■mm.- j>\ .^°^ ^o :- •«, ^^-^'^^ . v.^-^ *^ . " • . '<*'-K .6^ • " • ♦ "O / ^0 ^^^°^ ^^0^ iP-T"^. «5°«. "^ /..i^^^^^o ./\.i^/\ co^:a^^% / '^^ :« '-^^n^ o.^^ia'* -ov* :j^^^'- -^^0^ f'^^; ^ov^ ... V^^\/ ^^v.^^' •^°,<. • • ' ' ^^ ^ *' VVi' A . % ^ ^'A .^-^..^'j^,*, V c^"" .'.^^' '^^o .■^*\c:^', "•^„ -^/-o^ L^-^,*. f^ *"'" ^* .^ .-;:.% % q.. *•.-•' ^0 ^ '4- "°.**--' ^0' ^0^ ■ -.ia-eS&mEfe^itcjj ' ,1%; ,Nr Hn^s V ^(^ "7 pnolr } T^" GflB-lig]itl\° COPYRIGHT DEPQSET. ER OK BY FREDERIC W. LA CROIX li Advertising Manager of Pfister & Vogel Leather Co. A practical and descriptive exhibit of the leather industry prepared especially for the use of merchants o( leather goods, schools, and students of leather and allied subjects. Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co. CONTENTS Introduction — Notes on Leather Manufacture Page 1 Leather in Process — Specimens of Shoe Leathers Shoe Upper Leathers, No. 1 — Calf and Cowhide Shoe Upper Leathers, No. 2— Miscellaneous Skins Sole, Harness and Belting Leathers - . . . Glove Leathers .-.---. Fancy Leathers, No. 1 — Bookbinding and Light Leathers 6 Fancy Leathers, No. 2 -Upholstery and Heavy Leathers 7 io Published by PFISTER & VOGEL LEATHER CO. y»' Milwaukee, Wis. g)C!A4T00S7 '1'-^ -o ! \ 15 1917 \ J Preface THE many requests for information about leather that are constantly received by the advertising department of the Pfister & Vogel Leather Co. from merchants of leather goods and teachers and students in schools and col- leges prompted the publication a few years ago of "How Leather Is Tanned." This pamphlet in a few mimeo- graphed pages undertook to tell in a simple, concise fashion the essential facts in the manufacture of leather and to fill in some measure the almost total lack of descriptive, non-technical works on tanning. Though a great many copies of "How Leather Is Tanned" have been .supplied to interested persons, it has been evident that it went only part way with regard to instruction in leather and its manufacture. The common experience seems to have been that it is difficult to get a clear grasp of the subject without the opportunity of in- specting typical samples of leather in connection with the reading. It is as an aid in this respect that "The Leather Specimen Book" has been prepared. Used in connection with "How Leather Is Tanned" it aims to give a knowl- edge of leathers and the process of tanning sufficiently complete for all purposes not connected with practical tan- ning. On account of the almost unlimited variety in methods of finishing leather it has been possible to .show only the most common and representative types of finishes. In using this book to identify leather it should be kept in mind that a tanned skin may be embossed and finished so as to have its true nature totally disguised. Acknowledgment for much valuable assistance in the preparation of this book is due to Mr. James Warbasse, Editor of the "Glovers' Review"; The Daniel Hays Co., Gloversville, N. Y. ; Hess, Harburger & Drucker, New York; Mr. G. T. Leavitt of Eagle-Ottowa Leather Co., Chicago; Benj. N. Moore & Sons Co., Boston; Mr. W. C. BHedung of O. C. Hansen Mfg. Co., Milwaukee; A. C. Lawrence Leather Co., Boston; and to the manufacturing and chemistry departments of the Pfister & Vogel Leather Co. THE AUTHOR. Introduction The Raw Material The great variety in leathers that is met with in beginning the study of this subject is very confusing until it is realized that most of tliis difference exists only in the treatment of the surface by embossing, coloring, or finishing. The kinds of skins available are restricted within a small range, and the methods of tanning follow along a few general lines. Leather may for the purpose of this discussion be classi- fied in four different ways: 1, by the kind of skin; 2, by the tannage; 3, by the method of finishing; and 4, by the use for which it is intended. 1. Most of the leather in common use is made from the hides and skins of domestic animals, those of Cattle being by far the mo.st important, followed by Goatskins, Sheep- skins, HorseuiUcs, Pigskins, and in a small measure Dog- skins. Many skins of wild animals, principally those of the Kangaroo, Deer. Peccary, Alligator, Seal, Walrus, and Buf- falo are in fairly general use. Cattle hides are used chiefly for shoe upper and sole leathers, harness, belting, upholstery, bag and case leathers, and to some degree in bookbinding. Goatskins are used for shoes, gloves, bookbinding, and fancy leathers. Sheepskins are ttsed for shoe linings, gloves, and the greater part of the fancy leathers. Horsehides are used for shoes and utility gloves. Pigskins are used for the inner parts of shoes, utility gloves, bookbinding, fancy leathers, and saddle seats. Dogskins find limited application in glove leathers. Kangaroo is used for fine shoe leathers. Deer- skins, known as Buckskins, are used for both shoes and gloves Peccary for utility gloves, Alligator for bag and fancy leathers, Seal for bags, bookbinding, and fancy leathers, Walrus for jewellers' polishing wheels, and Buffalo for heavy soles. Tannages 2. Tannages are divided into two main classes, the Mineral and the Vegetable. The mineral tannages are subdivided into the Chrome and Alum. In the former the leather is tanned with basic chromic sul- phate and the tannage set with soda ash. The chrome tan- nage is used for the majority of shoe leathers, for utility and some dress gloves, and in a limited way for sole and belting leather. Alum-tanning, also known as tawing, is done with sulphate of alumina and common salt. This is the principal tannage for fine glove leathers. The vegetable tannages are limited only by the number of plants, barks, and other vegetable substances which yield tannins in sufficient quantities for commercial use. In prac- tice only a few tannins offering the advantages of cheapness, large supply, and greater suitability are used. Hemlock and Oak Bark liquors and extracts separately or in combination are used more than any other vegetable tannins. Most sole and belting leather, practically all upholstery, harness, bag, strap and case leathers, and some shoe aid ' okbinding leathers are tanned with Hemlock or Oak or both. Sumac is the principal tanning material for bookbinding leathers, on account of its giving a light-colored leather that is resistant to light and decay. Gall-nuts, Myrobalans, Divi-divi, and Oakwood are also used in bookbinding leathers. Valonia, and Chestnut Oak Extract are used for Sole Leather in con- nection with Oak and Hemlock. Quebracho is used in vari- ous leathers, often with Hemlock and Oak. Gambier and Palmetto are used in many of the softer leathers for shoes, gloves, etc. Some leathers are tanned with a mixture of three or four diflferent vegetable materials as may be neces- sary to give the color, firmness and other properties desired. A distinct tannage of limited use is the oil tannage used for making some glove leathers, particularly chamois and Buckskin. Cod oil is the oil commonly used. Its oxidation tans the leather. The object of tanning is to coat the fibers of the leather with some insoluble material so as to prevent their decay. The mineral and vegetable materials and oils used for tan- ning are made to permeate the leather and coat each fiber to accomplish this purpose. Methods of Finishing 3. Leather may be fin- ished on the grain or hair side, on the flesh ^'de, or on a split surface made bv splitting the leather into two thicknesses. These three primary meth- ods are given as follows with subdivisions and examples from the specimens. 1 Jopc ^- Shoes are the most important use for leather and after them gloves, harness, bags, cases, belting, upholsterv. bookbinding, strans, and various novelties and articles .n common use. The purpose for which a leather is intended will determine the raw material, tannage, and method of finishing. 1. Grain Finish. 1. Full or natural grain. .1. Natural color of the tannage. Russet Col- lar. b. Colored both sides by drum dyeing. Chrome Veals, Capeskins. c. Table or brush colored — one side. Colored Glac6 Glove leathers. d. Drum dyed, seasoned, and glazed. Glazed leathers. e. Hand-boarded after process b, c, or d. Boarded Veals, Morocco. f. Embossed after process b or c. Bag leathers. g. Enamelled or japanned. Patent shoe leath- ers. 2. Grain buffed. (Snuffed.) a. Smooth finish. Snuffed Chrome Kip, Kan- garoo Sides, Harness. b. Velvet finish. Mocha, Buckskin, Buffed Horse. c. Enamelled. Grain shaved off. Hand Buffed Upholstery. II. Flesh Finish. 1. Smooth. Cordovan, Wax Calf. 2. Velvet finish. Suede or Ooze Leather. III. Split Surface Finish. 1. Smooth. Flexible Splits. 2. Velvet finish. Chamois, Chrome Side Splits. 3. Enamelled and embossed. Machine and Deep Buffed Upholstery. Embossing by flat plate or steel roller allows of great variety and imitation in the surface appearance of leather. Sheepskin, for example, may be made to look like seal or alligator bv photographing the seal or alligator grain and etching i. j S. licals on the embossing plate or roller which is passed over the skin and prints the etched grain on it with the aid of heat and pressure. ^i-»lif finer I4ir1«>« The manner in which hides are kjpilllUlg 1 IIUCS gpjij i^j^j thicknesses to make sev- eral pieces of leather deserves some explanation. For sole, harness, and belting the whole thickness of the cowhide is used. The lighter skins as goatskins and coltskins are not split, but are shaved down to an even thickness all over. The heavier calfskins have a light split taken off the thicker parts by a knife blade splitting machine. This split is fin- ished like sample No. 8, p. 5. Sheepskins are used full thick- ness or split into two thicknesses for gloves and bookbind- ing. For examples of the upper and lower splits see p. 6, No. 4, and p. 5, No. 7. Cowhides for shoe upper, book- binding upholstery, bag leathers, etc., are split into two or more thicknesses. The belt-knife splitting machine used is regulated to make the grain or upper split any desired thickness from the thin paper-like buffing p. 6, No. 6, to the heavy waterproof shoe leather p. 2, No. 9. Shoe leathers are usually split into two thicknesses only, the flesh split being used for the leathers shown on p. 3, No. 10, p. 4, No. 6, p. 5, No. 8. UeepBe///eef »SeconcfSp//t ^fab. Upholstery leathers are split into three to five thicknesses. The illustration represents the order in which the splits come and is drawn to convey the fact that successive splits fall short of the original area of the hide because the hide is thickest in the center and lightest along the flanks. The buffing is a very thin grain split used for bookbinding, p. 6, No. 6. The three following splits are used for upholstery, p. 7, Nos. 3, 4. The "slab" makes a very cheap leather for various uses. The thickness of the splits varies according to the demands of the trade. For a more complete description of tanning processes than given in this book, the reader is referred to "How Leather Is Tanned," a pamphlet issued freeT5y*Th'e publishers of this book, or to the various books on tanning and leather manufacture to be found in public libraries. i Leather in Process of Tanning (Shoe Leather), 1 1. Dry Calfskin Hidf=s and skins usually come to (he tannery either wetsulied or dry. This is a piece of dry calf skin which comes spread flat and tied in bales. When taken from the animal it was hung up in the sun til! dry. It must be soaked tin soft before it can be worked. 2. Pickled Calfskin (Grain Side) This skin after washing, and having the hair and flesh removed, \vas pickled in salt, sulphuric acid, and water. This "pickle" thoroughly cleanses the skin, opens up the pores, and gets it into an acid state ready for chrome tanning. 3. Chrome Tanned Calfskin (Grain Side) The same skin after tanning. The chrome liquor give's the skin a light bluish-green color throughout. The "Grain" side is the side on which the hair grew. Most shoe upper leathers are chrome-tanned. iifiiiiiiiiiHMMiMMiMr Cowhide (Grain Side) Tanned in Hemlock bark liquor. The vegetable tannins give a reddish or yellow color to the skin. Note coarser grain of the cowhide due to larger hairs. 5. Chrome Calfskin Flesh Side — Unshaved This shows the flesh side of No. 3 after fanning. There are still some shreds of flesh on it. ^^^pi 6, Chrome Calfskin Flesh Side Shaved This shows No. S after it has bei-n shaved on flesh side by the shaving machine and the thicker parts split off by the splitting machine. Chvome Split Split Side The skin from which this sample was taken has been split into two thicknesses. 1 he lower or flesh split, with surface along which skin was split is shown. The under side of this sample is the flesh side; Grain splits are k^o^v"n as "Grains"' and flesh splits as "Splits" in the trade. ' 8. Chrome Split Fat-liquored This shows No 7 after it has been "fat -liquored" or drummed in an emulsion of oil and soap. It is now leather. The natural oils of the skin were removed by liming to loosen ihe hair and the tanned skins must be fat- liquored to restore their Hfe and soft- ness. 9. Chrome Calf Fat-liquored and Dyed Black This shows-No.^'fr fat-Hquored and dyed black. The dyeing was done in a drum in which the skins were rolled with a solution of logwood crystals or black aniline dyes in water. 10. Chrome Calf Fat-liquored and Dyed Brown This shows NorVk dyed brown ^or tan leathers. Dyed with fustic and aniline dyestuffs in a drum. Skins to be dyed on one side only are brushed or sponged over with the dye on the grain side on a table, called brush or table coloring. 1 1 . Glaared Chrome Calf A polishing mixture consisting of albumen, shellac, a black dye, and other materials was sponged over this skin and it was then "glazed" or rubbed mechanically with a glass cyl- inder to bring up a polish. This gives a permanent finish. This skin is now ready fpr making into shoes. 12. Vegetable- 1 anned Cowhide. Natural Finish This is No. 4 finished in the natural color of the tannage without dyes for horse collar leather. The surface col- or of leather, unless natural finish, does not indicate the tannage as bolh chrome and vegetable-tanned leathers. are finished black, tan or other colors, and dull or bright. Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis. {".,-'. ^'m Shoe Upper Leathers No, 1 (Calf and Cowhide) 1, Glazed Chrome Calf A higrh grade black calf leather for fine shoes. Chrome-tanned. Glazed finish. Note the fine, smooth calf grain. Chrome tanning gives the softest and strongest leather. 2. Russia Calf A high grade colored calf. Tanned with Gambler, Quebracho or other veg:etable tannins. The vegetable •tannage gives a fuller and more por- ous leather than the chrome. Birch ^<)U gives it the "Russia" odor. It was originally tanned i^ Russia with birch bark. 3. Suede Calf Skin of a very young calf finished on the flesh side by holding this side against an abrasive wheel to raise a fine nap. Worn fle^'; iide oMt for ladies' shoes. Chrome tanned and very soft. Sheepskin is also treated this way. Calf makes the best suede - leather for fineness and durability. 4, Whit6 Buffed Ca!f Tanned in Alum and Chrome. Alum givos a white tannage. Buffed on grain by holding it against an eraery wheel. This removes small defects in the grain and gives the leather a soft fin- ish, it should be disiingutshed from suede calf which is finished on the flesh side. Dusted with fine talcum and brushed. ooaraea ^nrome Veals Made from a large (lS-25 lb.) calf- skin from animal that has had good care and been protected in cold weather. Fine grain but not as fine as smaller calfskins. Heavier and larg^er skin. Glazed and hand boarded by rolling grain over on itself to make a square pattern. Used for. sh*>f;s or 6. CoFd, Chrome Veals Same clas^ of skin as No. 5, calf about a year old. Chrome tanned^ dyed brown, and finished dull for outing boots. A very strong, service- able leather. Snuffed Chroi^ie Kip Kips are coarser skins than veals due to^n older or poorer fed aiiimal ( glass fed ). The grain'of this Sample was scratched or defective so top of it was snutfed off by holding grain side against an abrasive wheel. Sponged over with black dye and fin- ished dull. MaJkes a durable shoe leather. Snuffed calf and sides are also common. Black Chrome Sides Chrome-tanned hide-ofa young eow or steer. Called "Sides" because the hide is divided along the middle of the back into two sides on account of size. Coarser grain than any of the preced- ing, but wears just as well. Finished like No. I. Cowhides are loo thick for shoe uppers so are split into two thicknesses and fleSli side used for somethlog-else* - ,41.;,...*^ Chrome Waterproof Sides split into a heavier grain than No. 8 and stuffed with grease to make the leather as nearly waterproof as possi- ble. Brush-colored black on grain and "pebbled" to make a pattern on grain. Natural chrome color on und- er or split side. Used for lumbermen's and other heavy shoes. Kangaroo Sides Cowhide tanned with Hemlock and other vegetable, tannins. Part of the 'grain has been "buffed" off or re- moved by hand with a special sharp blade. Hand boarded. Used for work shoes. Smoked Elk Sides A soft chrome-tanned cow or' steer hide for work or athletic shoes. Very strong and tough and stays soft. Hung in a smoke-house to give it a color, imitating the Indian tannage. Called "Elk" because supposed to resemble Elk skin in appearance. Made in black and colors. Real Elkskin is tanned for very heavy gloves for foundry work. Chrome Retanned Sides A side leather in combination of chrome and vegetable tannages to give it strength, softness, and resistance to ' barnyard acids. Boarded and brush colored on the grain. Hand-buffed like No. lO. Stuffed with greases. For use in heavy work and farm shoes. Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis. Shoe Upper Leathers No. 2 Miscellaneous Skins 3 1.. Biack Glazed Kid Cr-ai-' "n "^hrome-tanned and glazed to a hii^l. .11 .. Nole the character- istic grain dui- • i'. ■• f- i ' ' • goat's hair. Ma.. .; i.e,.f[, a... rut- able shoe, sofier and more porous than calf. Few real Kidskins are us€^ for shoes as they are too small and light. The chrome tannage, now by far the most generally used tannage for shoe upper leathers, came into commercial use with r^'r'-r ~'7;t™h ^^j ^h — ♦ 2. Colored Glazed Kid Goatskin, chrome-tanned and s^>ii7ec'. Glazed kid lends itself to dye- ing in a ^i-t-at varietv of delicaie and beautiful colors for lauies' shoes. The white are tanned with alum in addi- tion as alum is necessary to give a white leather. Goatskins for glazed kid are imported from all over the world. 3. Mat Cabretta The Cabretta is a cross between a shet'p ;i)T(d a poat and its leather par- takes of the ch;.i ificr v' bo('.. Tt comes from South America ciiioffy. Very common is a dull or "mat" fin- ish for tops of patent leather and other shoes. Chrome-tanned. 4. Chrome Sheep Domestic sheepskin, chrome- fanned. This sample has been finished di. j on ;he grain. It is also made with a L^lazed finish. The grain is rather different than that of glazed kid. Used for shoe linings, baby shoes, and many other purposes. It is cheaper than goatskm and is loo porous and lack- ing in strength and slability for shoe vamps. Glazed Kangaroo Skirt oC/»he Australian Kangaroo. Chromrr.iflned and glazed th*? same as glazed kid. Kitngaroo leatiier is tough and supple, does.n^' peel. -,ind keeps out water well, )> is a latuer scarce and expensive leather used for high grade sho^s. 6. Glazed Colt Chrome- tanned coltskin or horse- front, (Front part of a horse hide). A very strong, durable shoe leather used for medium grade shoes. Tanned and finished like glazed kid or calf. 7. Patent Cok Coltskin or horsefront. Russia has been the chief source of supply for coll-skiu; and fine horsefronts. Chron.' -?;i: l.-d, T^^. ;.■;!;:-, . -.M-n varnisJ!*-.? i - r wirji ■.: yii^nu pr^\> > d from boiK'd im .c;- J oil and guncollon and then baked on in ovens. The hard inelastic finish makes this leather un- certain in wear, but its luster cannot be equalled. Patent leather is rIso made from cowhide, goatskins, etc. 8. Cordovan Horse butt (rear part of horsehide;) tanned with gambier and other vege- table tannins. Colored in black, Ian, elc. and finished on the flesh side. A -.■ • . iffSi" waterproof leather because of Ihe impermeable shell in this part of (he horsehide. Used in high grade men's shoes. It is expensive and is imitated in calf and sides. Derives its name from Cordova, Spain, where it was first made. 9. Wax Calf Calfskin finished on flesh side as wax or "French'' calf. Tanned with chrome and vegetable tannins orwith vegetable lannins only. Finished on flesh side by "waxing" with a mixture of lamp black, waxes, flour, oil, soap, glue, etc. An excellent wearing leather and was the earliest method of finishing calfskins. It has now been mostly superseded by the grain fin- ishes. Wax Flesh Split The flesh or under split from a cow- hide, the upper or grain split being used for cowhide grain leather. Tanned in hemlock bark liquor. Fin- ished with a "paste" on flesh side sim- ilar to wax call. Makes a cheap shoe leather. 11. Buffud Sides Cowhide finishrH (*-> ivs'^mble buck- skin. The whu'- i.s usuuiiy i -.nned with chrome aiiv' alum, ihe f ' 'red wilh <_ me onl>. The grain has been helJ c.^; linst an emery wheel and part- ly buffed off, leaving a velvet.v n.uj. Ihis should be distinguished from suede leather which is finished on the flesh side. Dyed in various shades. Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis, 12. Buckskin Madii from deerskins imported from , Mexico and South America. Former- 1 . ri pure orl'tanned leathtr. Now iilujn is emploved in vuKlilion. The while is laimed chiefly with alum as (Mis I'foduces a white leather. The ;j'ii'> Iius been buffed on an emery ^^'llcel, The color is brushed o\'er (he grain side on a (able. On account of its scarcity and expensiveness buck- skin is imitated very largely in buffed sides. ^l- Sole, Harness, and Belting Leathers mmmmmmmmmm 1. Chrome Sole In sole leather the full thickness ot cattle hides is used. Chrome-tanned sole is the strongest and lightest sole leather. It is slippery and porous and has a rough edge. Sometimes stuffed with grease to make -vvaterproof. Used chiefly in outing and athletic shoes. 2. Oak Sole Tanned with Hquor or extract of oak" bark. This is (he best bark -tanned sole leather. Used for men's fine shoes and more used by r«^pairers than any other sole leather. Can be sewed or nailed. Union Sole Hemlock Sole Tanned w^ith a combination of hem- lock and oak bark liquors or extracts. Not quite as firm as oak sole. Used for women's shoes and the better grades for men's shoes. Sews well. Varies ra color according to propor- tions of oak and hemlock used. Tanned with Hemlock bark liquor. A firmer leather than oak or union, Used for medium price men's shoes and work shoes, chieflv nailed ^vork. Used also by repairers, especially for heel top lifts. Cheaper than oak or union. The hide comes from the true Buffa- lo of Asia and the East Indies. H'-m- lork tannage. Coarser and more por- ous than cowhide. Used for heavy nailed shoes. The under or fles1» split from a cow- hide. Tanned first ift chrome, then in hemlock bark liquor. A firm leather used for inner soles. Pigskin tanned in bark or chrome and bark liquors and used for inner soles. Comes hi strips taken off the loin. 1 he grain is very noticeable. Sometimes the grain is split off for pocketbook h-ather, etc. and tht flesh split is used for inner soles. kazor Strop Butt Made from horse butt (rear end of horse hide) tanned first in chrome, then in a vegetable liquor. Grain partly buffed off by holdintr against an «mery wheel. Fat-liquored lo render il pliable. Cowhide tanned and fin- ished i-j much the same way is used for soles. ^«m 9. Belting Leather Cow or steer hide tanned like Oak Sole with perhaps an addition of gam- bier or other vegetable tannins to . make it softer. After tanning Belting Leather is stuffed with greases and worked over to render it pliable. 10. Russet Collar. Hemlock bark tannage, natural fin- ish. From a cow or steer hide split to a lighter weight than harness leather. Used for horse collars. It is also fin- ished in black. The russet finish is also used for welling in shoes. 11. Chrome Lace Leather Chrome-tanned hide of a young cow or year old calf. A strong, durable leather with dyed finish. Used for saddlery laces. Raw-hide lace leather is tanned with oils or fats and alum. 12. Union Harness Tanned with a combination of oak and hemlock bark liquors or extracts. The whole thickness of a cow or steer hide is used. Stuffed -with greases to render it pliable. The grain is partly removed by hand and then blacked and brushed. Used for harnesses. Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis, ^^ii^'M Glove Leathers r 1. Glace Kid Kidgkin, alum-tanned in France. The most desirable real kidskins are the "French National Skins". G!ac6 Kid gloves are usually imported due to the tariff on the leatht^t. Glac^ Kid makes the fine^j and most durable dress gloves, known as Real Kid gloves to distinguish them from lamb- skin glovt's commonly called Kid gloves. White is the natural color of the alum tannage. Tan or black kid is made by brushing dyes over the grain side. 5. Buckskin Deerskin from Mexico, Central or South America. Oil tanned. The skins are stuffed with cod oil and worked and then hung ur till the oil has tanned the leather. Butfed on the grain like Mochas and table-colored. The pelts qre heavy and in the full thickness are made into utililj' gloves. For light weight gloves the leather is split to the required thickness. Buckskin makes a warm, durable, high grade glove. ;^. uiaccn:sflil3 Made from fine European lambskins. Tanned with alum and imported in the finished slate. Tin- heavier skins are used for men's and the lighter for w'om'Mt's ttno gloves, white or colored on 111* grain. Glac6 lamblouk^i much like Glac6 Kid but has not as much strength. Glac6 leathers are finished with the grain surface on. The grain is rubbed with a plush wheel after ap- plying wax or talcum. Lambskin is used for most of the "Kid" gloves on the market. 6. Siiude Lambskin Domestic lanlbskin, chrome-tanned. Fin :;hed on the flesh side by holding thi^ side again?! an emery \vheel (ill a sm'>oth, ve*lv.!ty nap is raised- Used for medium price gloves. Domestic lamb or sheepskins have a coarser grain than th^ imported and in a grain finish are used for utiliiy and work gloves. Lamb and shi'cpskins with fine, soft wool yield inferior glove If:irli. r. Th<- ('>->o*it ;ind stt. .n?f>£( leath- ( r ,-> : ,,■■ : , ,, MiTiui'- 4 J hairy 3. Capeskin Capeskin first came from the Cap6 of Good Hope district. Now lamb- skins from many countries are also used, some of the finest coming from Russia. The best skins have a hairy or wM'ry wool, the lp\^ure of the skin being beiw<*«*n tli li ol a sheep and a goMt. The sUins aiL* large and heavy CO m pared with the preceding. ChrOme-lanned and washable. "Dip- ped" or dj-^ed in a drum. Used for the better and medium price dress and street gloves. 7. Chamois Made from flesh splits of sheepskins. Named after .the Chamois Goat of Switzerland. Tanned chiefly with cod oil. Alum in the white and chrome in the colored are also used. The best skins are selected for the cheaper suede gloves, and are buffed and dyed. The other skins are used for chamo'S vests, polishing cloths, etc. Chamois leath- er is washable with soap and water. It is largely used to imitttltf doeskin. The real, doeskins are >ktti|KJ^ buck- skins hia UiX^^ti'T ir '-"'■'f^/'iMiRfli; jj _ i'_ Buffed Horse Front part of a horsehtde. Chrome- tanned. Buffed on the grain and dyed and table colored. Made into heavy gloves for driving, utility wear, etc, A very soft and strong leather. 10, Grain Horse Same class of hide as No. 8, chrome- tanned and finished with the full grain. Table-colored. Used for automobile gauntlets and work gloves. -Very strong and durable. South American sheep are tanned and colored the same way to make a leather of very similar appearance. The sheep makes a cheaper and less durable glove. Dog- skins are also dressed in this manner for utility gloves. Pigskin Domestic pigskin, chrome- tanned and finished in the natural chrome color as in this specimen or dyed yel- low. Makes a strong, soft leather for work gloves. The grain is character- istically coarse and porous. 4- Undressed Mocha Skin of the hair sheep of Arabia, Persia, and Northeast Africa. Derives its name from the seaport of Mocha, Arabia. Alum tanned and treated with salt, egg yolks, flour, and olive oil. Because of imperfections the grain is friezed or buffed by holdiilg it against a fine emerv wheel to raise a soft nap. ''Dipped" or dyed in a drum to color botji sides. Mochas are very durable and go into the finest of undressed gloves. They are an American inven- tion. 8. Chrome Side Split The under or flesh split of a cow- hide. Chrome-tanned. Buffed on the split side. Used for cheap work gloves and shoe gussets and as a facing for the palms and fingers of canvas gloves. Dyed in many shades or used in the natural chroraie color. A cheap and durable leather. 12. Peccary Skin of the peccary, a kind of wild ^pig of Mexico and South. Chrome- tanned and dyed. It is a heavy skin with very coarse grain. Used for working gloves and gauntlets where strength and softness are needed. Copyright 1917 by Pfjj«(er & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis. \ Fancy Leathers No; 1 Bookbinding and Light Leathers 6 1. Morocco Goat Goatskin tanned with sumac, the g-enuine Morocco tannage which withstands light and decay the best and makes the highest grade book- binding leather, also used for hand- bags, etc. Colored, embossed and hand boarded. India goat and sheep are used as substitutes for Morocco goat and resemble it closely though the sheep especially is less durable. Morocco sealskins are also made. Morocco is so called because first made by the Moors. 2. Bock (India Sheep) Sheepskin bark -tanned in India, re- tanned herewith sumac. India-lanned sheep and goat skios make a durable, soft leather, and are embossed in many patieins. The heavy skins are used for bags and cast's and (he light for book- binding, n<*>'elties. shoe tops, etc. The sample shown is a typical bookbind- ing leather. "Bock" is Hindu for goat leather, used, however, for India Sheep. India Goat is rather more durable than the sheep. 5. Red Russia Calf (Light Diced Calf) Calfskin tanned with hemlock, que- bracho, or other vegetable tannins. Embossed with crossed lines and glazed. Used largely for pocket and memorandum books. A leather of "fine qualify and quite expensive. Russia Calf is so called because first tanned in Russia with birch bark. The odor of this tannage is now duplicated in any tannage by spraying birch oil 6. Buffing A thin grain split from a cowhide. (see P. 7, No. ■*.) Tanned wilh sumac or .>umac in combination with other vegetable tannins. Dyed and em- bossed with a "straight grain" * pattern of parallel lines (. Used for books, novelties, etc.' Buffings are fretjuent- ly embossed with seal, morocco and other grains for pocket books, cases, etc. 3. Spanish Goat Goatskin fanned with alum and gambier. The "Spanish" grain is pro- duced as follows: A bro\vn, green or other paint is bn.Khed over tlu- grain. When this is dry She skin is \vrh(kled. A black or ollior tli;rk paint is then ap- plied so as to fill in the creases. This forms ihe irregular color pattern. Used for books, novelties, upholstery, etc. This same "Spanish" grain is also made in sheep, cowhide, and cowhide splits, chiefly for furniture use. 4. Skiver The grain split of a sheepskin. The flesh splits used for Chamois. Tanned usually with sumac. A pattern has been embossed on the grain. Dyed and finished for pocket books or chi-.q) 1> «oivbinding. Made in plain finish for hat sweatbands. It is thin and has little strength, but can be fin- ished in many brilliant colors and em- bossed in a' great variety of patterns. 7. Book Binding Sides Cross Grain Cowhide tanned with oak and hem- lock bark liquors. Split to various weights. Much tliicker and more substantial than the Buffing, This sample was boarded or grained in two directions to give a cross pattern. Al- so comes embossed with a Seal Grain for music rolls, bags, etc. 8. Morocco Grain Cowhide Cowhide, vegetable tannage, brush colored on the grain and embossed with a Morocco grain iii imilation of the Morocco Goat. It is also quilr commonly embossed with a Seal grain. Used for small bags, novelties, and bookbinding. ^ 9. Law Sheep Sheepskin tanned with quebracho with perhaps other vegetable tannins. ^-Finished on grain in the natural color of the tannage. Used fpr law books and othet books and novelties. The same style of leather is also made from Skivers, lambskins and calf. 10. Suede or Ooze Sheep 11, White Alum Sheep Sheepskin chrome-tanned and dyed in various colors. Finished on flesh side against an emery wheel to raise a smooth velvety nap. Used for bags, pocket books, book covers, etc. Also called moleskin from having a soft nap like the fur of a mole. , Sheepskin tanned with alum. Used for novelties, souvenir book covers, dance programs, etc. Finished on the grain. This class of sheep leather comes in a great variety of tints in the chrome tannage. The White Alum is also finished on the flesh like Suede Sheep. 12. Pigskin Pigskin tanned with quebracho and finished in the natural color of the tannage. It comes dyed in various colors also. Used for bookbinding, pocket books, etc. Makes a strong, durable leather of coarse and porous grain. The grain pattern closely re- sembles that of the human skin. Copyright 1917 by Pfi»ter & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, Wis. \ Fancy Leathers Upholstery and Heavy Leathers )panis Upholstery _ Cowhide tanned with a Combina- tion of bark and other veeetable tan- nins as hemlock, oak, quebracho, etc. Has the full grain of the hideandisthe best class of upholstery leather. Used for leather chairs, etc. Finished with a paint made chiefly of linseed oil and a pigment which is brushed on the grain and allowed to dry. For the name and process see P. 6, No, 3. ^' ■■ 'T''^. ■ ' " «'^' llgv JLM , V. ■ l'-'*^^^-^W ■ Jk.. \mtm B Tf^ , ■-::.. <^- 1 2. Hand Buffed Upholstery Tanned like Spanish Grain. The grain has been partly removed on a shaving machine. Several coats of a paint or daub finish of the desired col- or are then brushed on. Each coat is baked on in turn and before the last coat the surface is pummiced smooth. This process produces a lustrous and durable enamel finish. This specimen was then embossed in a "straight grain" pattern. 3. Machine Buffed ' Upholstery The grain of this leather has boon split off very thin on a splitting mach- ine, and makes the cowhide buffing for books, etc. (see P. 6, No. 6) The surface made by splitting off the grsin is finished as in the Hand Buffed. Used for medium price automobiles and for furniture. 4. Deep Upholstery A heavy grain split which may have been any one of the three preceding lias been taken off and the flesh split shown finished like the two previous samples and embossed. This is uphol- stery leather considerably cheaper than the preceding. Below the Deep Butted a second split" is taken off and fmished the same way, but is not as strong or durable. Upholstery hides yield three to five splits. 5. Case Leather Cowhide tanned in hemlock and oak bark liquors. Dyed and glazed smooth on grain. Used for suit cases and in the heavier thicknesses for tra- veling bigs. The flesh side has been split off and made into insole splits. The brown or tan shade is most com- mon for suit cases and the black for bags. ' ' Strap Leather Cowhide tanned like case leather and split to a heavier weight. Used for suit case straps. Comes in various thicknesses, the heavier being used for trunk straps, arch supports, and lamb's wool soles. 7. Boarded Belt Cowhide, bark -tanned, and split. Made soft for tubular belts. Boarded by rolling grain over on itself to i>:(' e square pattern when d- Mie in iwo directions. Belt leather is also made the same as strap leather split thin, and sometimes buffed on the grain for either smooth or velvet finish. 8. Crepe Grain Cowhide Cowhide tanned with hemlock and oak bark. Table-colored on grain and embossed with a pattern known as "Crepe Grain". Used for traveling bags and novelties. Cowhide for bags is embossed in various patterns or comes smooth. Smooth leather bags of the best kind are made from the Boarded V^als (shown on page 2) or from Russia Veals (similar to Russia Calf, page 2, ) known as Calf bags. 9. Seal Skm of the hair seal, tanned with gambler and other vegetable tannins. Used tor ladies' hand bags, novelties, bookbinding, etc. This specimen known as Pin Seal show§ the natural grain of seal after boarding. The finest skins are selected and are split to a light weight. Other skins are em- bossed and boarded to raise the grain known as Seal Grain shown in No. 11. This grain is popular in bags, and is imitated in sheep, goat and cowhide, less expensive and less durable. 10. Walrus Sealskin of a much larger and coarser grain than the preceding. The deep ridges are caused by allowing the skin to shrink in the course of tan- ning. By genuine walrus is meant sealskin shrunk to make the so-called walrus grain. This leather is used for bags, men's belts, etc., and is imitated in cowhide, goatskin, and splits. Real walrus is a much heavier skin, about IVi in. thick, and js u^edby the jewel- ry trade for pohshing purposes. Seal Grain Goat India -tanned goatskin embossed with a seal grain. (See untfer India Sheep.) Used fur bafis. lovelties and book-binding. Cheaper (1. ;m sfmskin. Some sheep leather is also used for bags embossed with a seal or other grains. Linings of traveling bags are often made of sheepskin finished nat- ural color or in various colors. 12. Alligator Skin o( the alligator of Florida and tropical America. The smooth part shown comes from the belly and sides, the horny part seen on bags from the back. Vegetable tannage. Used for bags and novelties. Its peculiar grain is imitated in sheepskin by embossing. Copyright 1917 by Pfister & Vogel Leather Co., Milwaukee, WU, » 'IV- >' ;.'-l^*0«-^ ^''^^'A^ ^^^'^^^'\^^^ V''*^-v'^ "^^.'^^^^G^^ "^o-T.^^\^^ ^°^ ^^-^^^ • ••" **'% -j^ i^-nK. 5°. ^' o . » • ,"% %.^" ^^•n.. v./ oV-^I^'. %,/ ^^i^«. -...^^ ■^-./ .-1°^ *bv" "^^ HECKMAN BINDERY INC. |s| -^, NOV 90 ^fii^ N. MANCHESTER, ^^..♦^ /^-v %„./ --^^-' ^-