.M /"^ Glass v^ ^t ^' G Book rp^n^ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2011 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/tenmonthsonwingOOpoes Ten Months on the Wing By MRS. JOHN W. POE {>-L Roswell, New Mexico 1916 PIS' JAh i3 i3i9 DEDICATED TO MY DEAR SISTERS Ten Months on the Wing By MRS. JOHN W. POE March 24th, 1913. — My dear Sisters: You will no doubt be surprised to receive a letter from me dated from New York, and more especially to learn that we "birds of passage^' are again on the wing. This is to be a longer flight than any we have yet made, perhaps extending well on to a year, as we contem- plate encircling the globe. I shall treat the narrative of our journey in the form of a journal, in order that you may keep track of our movements, our various experiences and impressions. "We left the "Eoswell Nest" at seven-thirty on the morning of the 21st. We arrived in Kansas City the next day about half-past three; were in Chicago at seven-thirty the following day. We were pleasantly surprised in meet- ing Mr. P. on the train this morning. He is going to New York to meet his daughter and son-in-law, Mr. and Mrs. C, who are returning from their bridal tour abroad, and are to arrive in New York on the 26th. They sailed from Naples on the steamship Adriatic. March 24th. — We arrived in New York at three- thirty P. M. and are stopping at our favorite hotel, the Prince George. March 25th, 26th and 27th were spent in prepar- ing for our tour. March 28th. — Today is Friday. Our friend, Mr. S., took us to the Clearing House. AVe saw the clerks clear 4 Ten M ontlis on the Wing. two hundred and seventy-four million dollars in eight minutes, and they said it was a dull day. We then went down to Wall Street, and saw the brokers dealing in stocks. The men on the Street were communicating with each other by the deaf and dumb method of talking. We went to the Stock Market, and then to the top of the Singer Building to get a panoramic view of the city. We visited Old Trinity Church and Cemetery. The day was very happily spent in reviewing with our friend old times out West. March 29th. — Our ship, the Adriatic, sailed at high noon today. Mr. S. came down to bid us "adios." A smooth sea gives promise of a pleasant voyage. March 30th, Sunday. — Such a beautiful day! Wc attended divine service at ten o'clock; heard a good ser- mon by an English clergyman. March 31st. — The sea has been quite rough today. April 1st. — A quiet day. We received, by wireless, news of the death of J. P. Morgan. April 2nd. — This has been another fine day. There is joy in being at sea when the weather is good and the waves not too rough. "With the blue above, And the blue below. And silence where-so-e'er you go." There were some sports on deck at eleven o'clock, such as potato racing, wringing the monkey, et cetera. April 3rd. — We saw our first ship since leaving New York this afternoon. The stokers' band played on the second cabin deck in the evening. Ten Months on the W i^ig . 5 April 4th. — We saw the Olympic this afternoon, but not near enough to tell what she looks like. The day has been quite cold. The daily paper, "The Ocean News," gives us most of the important happenings of the universe. Received news of the Balkan war today. Apeil 5th. — Arrived at Queenstown Harbor at ten o'clock tonight. The waves were so high that the tender could not come in alongside the quay. After maneuver- ing around for more than an hour, the Adriatic had finally to run into the harbor. Even then it was with great dif- ficulty we were docked. It was one o'clock ere we reached the Custom House, and two by the time we reached tlie Queenstown Hotel. April 6th. — We slept until nine o'clock, it being Sunday. After breakfast we left for Cork — the trip takes thirty minutes, and costs thirty cents. The hills are already green and daisies dot the pad- docks, while the golden gorse makes the landscape bright and the rhododendrons are great clumps of crimson. A bright blue slcy is over all. We are at the Metropole Hotel, where we stopped six years ago, and J. has already been taken for an Irishman. April 7th. — We went out to Blarney Castle today in a jaunting car, with a youth whose brogue was as broad as the road. He showed us some labourers' cottages which he said rented for ten shillings per annum, with nn acre of ground attached to each cottage. J. said, "Who owns these houses?" "Why, sor, the man they rent them from." — (An Irish bull.) The scenery is unsurpassed in rural loveliness. The sun shone bright, although the air was cool for us "New Mexicans." We always enjoy Ireland and its people. April 9th. — We left Cork at noon and were in Lim- erick by three-forty. Are stopping at Cruses Eoyal Hotel. 6 Ten Months on the Wing. We walked to the Eiver Shannon and saw the monu- ment erected to Fitzgerald^ wdio fell at Balaklava in 1855. April 10th. — Today we employed a jaunting car and driver and visited some places of interest — a monument to Sarsfield, hero of 1790 and 1791; also a monument to Daniel O'Connell; and the old wall which was used as a defense against Cromwell and William of Orange. Very interesting to us was St. Mary's Cathedral, founded in 1142 by King O'Brien of Munster. This contains many ancient tombs and relics. Among them a pipe-organ one hundred and fifty years old; also a chandelier one hundred and fifty years old. The tombs of the O'Briens, dating back to 1135. The nodding-stools of the monks were all hand-carved. This is where they recited the Miserere. At times in this service they stood up all night. The nodding - stools were so arranged that they could half-way sit on. them, but if they felt too sleepy to stand longer, the seats dropped, letting them sit down. In one chapel there is a skeleton walled in, while under the floor are the bones of those who were executed during the Eestoration. These bones lie in a pile five feet deep. Out in the grounds are two stone ornaments from the home of General Ireton, son-in-law of Oliver Cromwell. His home was destroyed during the siege. The original altar-piece and baptismal font are in one of the chapels. The stone slab of the al- tar is twelve feet long and eleven inches thick. We met the Dean of St. Mary's as we came out. He stopped us to inquire if we had enjoyed the Cathedral. He, and one other person, are the only surviving descend- ants of the Kings of Munster. When he learned our name, he said, "That is a good Irish name, we pronounce it Po-e." He told us that there are two families of Poes living near Leda, in Tipperar)?, who own fine estates — no doubt they are relatives. Speaking of St. Mary's, the Dean told us of the se- cret stairways, now walled in, which formerly connected Ten Months on the Wing. 7 the Cathedral with the castle of King John and the prison. We went to see the Treaty Stone, erected in com- memoration of the Peace Edict. Limerick is a city of 35,000 inhabitants. It has no street cars, but is quite a manufacturing center. Stock- raising is the chief industry of the surrounding country. April 11th. — Eailroad Hotel, Galway, — Arrived here at ten o'clock last night. We have been to see Lynch's Memorial Stone, and the window from which he hanged his own son. The story is that Lynch, who was chief magistrate, had visiting him from Spain a young cava- lier. Lynch's son became jealous of the Spaniard's atten- tion to a certain damsel and murdered him in cold blood. The boy was convicted and sentenced to hang, but there was no one who would perform this duty, as his father was chief magistrate. They refused to have anything to do with it; whereat, the father took the law into his own hands, and hanged his son from a window of his castle. This is the origin of the word, "lynch law." We then visited St. ISTicholas Church, built in 1330. It contains some peculiar old tombs, among them that of the Lynches. Their crest was a lynx. There are several tombs marked with emblems of the trade or profession of the departed — such as a pair of scissors for a draper, a set of hammers for a goldsmith, et cetera. We went out to the Wier Bridge to see the salmon coming up to spawn, but the v/ater was too deep to see them. Tonight we went to the show; they played "When Bunty Pulls the Strings." April 12th. — We left Galway at nine-forty and ar- ribed at Sligo about two-thirty. There was a Mtr, Kilroe on the train, who lives at Sligo. He was an entertaining fellow-traveler and showed us the places of interest on the road. One of the singular sights was an ancient bridge on which tall pine trees were growing. 8 Ten Months on the Wing. "We are stopping at the Eamsey. After lunch we went to see the Sligo Cathedral, founded in 1130. Here we met an ancient son of Erin, who showed us the place. His name was Gal lager. He had a marvelous fund of Irish lore stored up in his "bel- fry." During the cholera scourge of 1833 many people were buried here. The remains lie ten feet deep, so the old man said. Then came the famine and added its vic- tims to the pile. The English government appropriated a sum of money to preserve the old ruins of Ireland. This cathedral is now undergoing restoration. This old man (the keeper of the cathedral) has spent his life here, never having been away from Sligo. He is now seventy-eight years old. His principal occupation is taking people out to Holy Well. This is some three miles from the town. The journey is made by river and lake. We let him row us out this afternoon. The day was fine and the river Garavogue is very beautiful — broad, and clear as crystal; its source is Lough Gall. The scenery is almost as lovely as Killarney. Mr. Gallager was full of poetry and song; he recited from Tom Moore and Goldsmith. One interesting legend was about a certain tableland on the top of the mountain. The King of Connaught forced his young and charming daughter to marry the Prince of Munster, a one-eyed man. She was in love with a son of the King of Leinster. After her marriage she carried on a clandestine correspondence with her former lover. Her husband sent her on a pilgrimage to this table- land, where there was a certain shrine. She sent word to her lover to meet her there, and then crossed the river on a feather bed as a boat. (Beds were enclosed in wicker baskets at that time.) When her husband came to join his wife, she had flown with her lover. In order to avenge himself, her father wrote King James of England that if he, would send an army to in- vade Ireland he would throw his forces and influence in with England and so conquer the country. James sent Harry Hotspur over, and a battle was fought on this spot, Ten M onths on the W ing . 9 which is kno^m as the most historical spot in Ireland, be- ing the place where the English fought and won the first victory over the Irish. Mr. Gallager said this is not fic- tion, but history. We landed in an inviting woodland, where there is a shrine and a spring called Holy Well. We drank of the healing waters and gathered primroses on the brink. Sligo is picturesquely situated among sylvan woods and hills and is adjacent to a pellucid lake, where one may enjoy the sport of reel and rod. Going to Galway, we changed cars at Athenry, and again on coming to Sligo. Starting from the hotel at ten A. M., (for Londonderry) we found that we had to change cars at Enniskillen. I got off for a moment and the train pulled out and left us. On leaving the train I asked the guard if we had five minutes, and he said we did. We had to wait six hours, and, although the town is full of interesting places, we were too disappointed to enjoy it. April 15tii. — Eeached Londonderry at nine P. M., and are at the City Hotel. This is a city with a popula- tion of 40,000 and quite a busy place, comparatively speaking. It contains much of interest historically. Among other things is a splendid old wall enclosing the older part, built by the English for protection against the warring tribes of Ireland. It withstood the siege of 1688. James II of England besieged the place for eight months; cannon, which were placed on the top of the Cathedral of St. Colombo, threw shells over into the enemy's line. In the old church is a cannon ball fired over the wall of the city. It contains in its hollow a message from James demanding in very harsh terms the surrender of the city; however, it held firm, and he was forced to make terms to suit the inhabitants. The Prince of Orange also besieged the town and was successfully withstood. The wall is broad enougli for two autos to pass one another on its top. Our landlord, Mr. O'Kane, is a genial host. He says 10 Ten Months on the Wing. he knows that I am Irish because I have such a sunny disposition, and see the ludicrous side of things, April 16th. — Came down to Drogheda today. White Horse Hotel is not noted for comfort. It rained all day and we felt cold and damp. They made a fire for us; they cannot understand our being so cold-blooded. Apeil 17th. — We went to Balrath Burry to visit Anna's father and mother; spent a pleasant day talking* about their daughters. Eeturned to the hotel at eight P. M. April 18th. — Employed a driver and jaunting car and drove to all the places of note. We went about twenty-four miles. First, we visited King William's Glen, where we stood on the battle-field of the Boyne, and beheld the obelisk commemorative of the heroes of the battle. From there we went to the Douth's Cave, v/hicli is an ancient druidical burying-place ; we climbed dowii a lad- der and squeezed our way through a narrow passag'3 into the burial-chamber, built up of great stone slabs and arch- ed over vfith a degree of accuracy that astonishes one to behold. There is a ■sacrificial stone where bodies were cre- mated before being placed in the tomb. There is a still larger cave at New Grange, discov- ered by accident about seventy years ago. The mound, o^ hill, was thought to be a natural elevation covered with rocks, as are many of the surrounding hilU, until the owner of the estate decided to build a new mansion. He needed some large flags for the foundation, and had no- ticed several protruding from the foot of the hill. In ex- cavating, he discovered that they were marked over the surface in queer hieroglyphics. They continued excavat- ing, and found that the hill was entirely artificial, having been built by the hands of an ancient race. There is a large chamber containing two large sacri- Ten M onths on the W ing . 11 ficial stones, a sarcophagus, and several small apartments. Many of the wall-markings are simihir to those we see in the Eito cle los Frijoles in New Mexico, U. S. A. Wo had to crawl on our hands and knees to get through tho narrow entrance. There was a corpulent gentleman here last autumn who could not squeeze in "to save his life," and went away greatly disappointed in consequence, as he was particularly interested in archaeology. We thought of our friend Mr. Hewitt. How he would have enjoyed and understood these particular ruins ! We drove to Mellifont Abbey, founded in 1133 and destroyed during the reign of Henry A^II, 1342. Tt v.as only recently excavated, having been entirely covered up until some fifty years ago. The abbey was formerly a great seat of learning. Men from all parts of the world, as then known, came here to seek instruction from the learned monks. There is one well-preserved window wliich is the delight of artists, who come from long distances to make drawings of it; also of the gargoyles and cornices. One small corner of the beautiful tiling was found intact and is still preserved in its original location ; but most of the floor was found scattered over the entire ruins. Crom- well finished the destruction begun by Henry, and the ma- jority of Catholic fanes were destroyed. From here we went to Monasterboice to see the fa- mous old Cross and Round Tower. The cross is of very ancient design, and contains strange figures and v/ritings. It is supposed to be the most ancient of Christian jnonu- ments in Ireland. The Tower is all of eightv feet high and fifty feet in circumference. There are many different theories in regard to these towers. The most {jiausible, to me, is that they were built for the protection of the monks who slept in them, for as they had different Hoors all Ihe way up, they could climb up and pull the '!-idd!rs after them, thus being safe from their enemies. This theory is based on the fact that the towers are always built near the abbey. 12 Ten Months on the Wing. Mr. Balfour has a magnificent demesne and mansion overlooking the Boyne. We drove through another large estate to see an old hall, over four hundred years old. Apeil 19th. — Came down to Dublin last evei.ing, stopping at the Shelbourn. April 20th. — We went to see "Quo Vadis" at the Phoenix Picture Palace, the finest picture show we have ever witnessed. I feel certain that the drama could not portray the scene half so accurately — the pictures were all in colors. We are sorry not to be able to go to the Vale of Avoca, where "The Wild Waters Meet," but it is out of season to go there. We should have enjoyed going to the site of Tara's Hall, but we are too early for that also. Holy Head. — We came over on the seven o'clock boat from Dublin and took the train for Chester, arriving at two A. M.— (Railroad Hotel.) April 21st. — Chester is on the river Dee. We have walked about six miles, all around the old wall, climbed up in the Tower of Charles I, from whence he viewed the defeat of his army. Chester was a Eoman camp in 48 A. D. St. John's Church was founded here in 689 by King Ethelred. In 1057, Leofric, King of Mercia, restored the church. Some claim that King Harold, after fleeing from the battle of Hastings, lived here in a cell with th(j monks. In 1075 St. John's became a cathedral for the three cities of Lichfield, Coventry and Chester. It is now a picturesque old ruin, covered with ivy. The College of St. John was dissolved by orders of Edward VI in 1548, when part of the church was torn down and the lead from the roof and the bells were melted and sold. Cromwell used this church as a shelter for his army. At one time De Quincey lived in a part of the Ten Months, on the W ing . 13 ruins, and here he wrote the "Confessions of an Opium Eater." Chester Cathedral was founded either by Wulphecns, King of Mercians, 606, or by his daughter, Saint Werbury. The present building was begun in 1093 and finished in 1194. Some years later the Duke of Monmouth and his followers damaged the organ and several of the fine win- dows, but it was entirely restored by Thomas Harrison in 1683. The tower is one hundred and seven feet high. The two main streets of the city cross each other at right angles. They were cut out of the rocks by the Eo- mans. The houses are curiously arranged on these streets —the upper story, for some sixteen feet, forms a continu- ous promenade open in front, where there are pillars and steps from the street below. The private houses above arc owned by one family, while the lower floor is owned by another family. Neither can improve or demolish its part without the consent of the other. April 22nd. — Dear Sisters: We came over to Lon- don today, and are stopping at the Bedford Hotel, on South Hampton Eow. It is an old place, much patron- ized by the English on account of its proximity to the shopping district and the British Museum. We stopped here six years ago. April 23rd. — We went to the picture show tonight ; heard an Italian singer. Many of the play houses have been turned into picture palaces. We enjoyed a ride on the 'bus out into the suburbs. April 24th. — J. went to look up Mr. Stevens at 28 Corn Exchange, while I took a walk down Oxford Street. Mr. Stevens called and spent the evening. His wife is in New York. April 25th. — We spent the morning in the manu- script Department of the Museum. One could spend a 14 Ten Months on the Wing. month profitably in this department alone, there is so much to learn. We wandered on through the Ethnologi- cal Depaitments of America, China, Japan and the Isl- ands of the Pacific. The best way to see London is from the top of a 'bus. We went down New Oxford to Victoria Station, and then out the opposite direction to Ley ton Green, near Epping Forest. April 36th. — Mr. Stevens came and went with us to Hyde Park and Park Lane, where are the residences of the aristocracy and the palace occupied by Whitelaw Eeid; then through Kensington Gardens. In the evening we went to the picture show. April 27th. — This is Sunday. We went with Mr. Stevens on a long 'bus ride to Hampton Court, walked through the beautiful grounds, and went into the chapel where Cardinal Wolsey was accustomed to preach to Henry VIII and his several wives. No one is allowed to enter except during the hours of service. This is owing to the fear that suffragettes may destroy it. We went through the Kew Gardens on our return. April 28th. — Today we went to see the King review his troops in Hyde Park. There was a great military dis- play — thousands of soldiers, with their scarlet coats and bear-skin caps, brass bands, a Highland band, and many civilians were in the parade. His Majesty rode on horse- back, while the Queen rode in a carriage with the young princess. The Queen is almost puritanical in her habits and in the rearing of her children, but is not so well l)e- loved as the Queen Dowager, who understood the hearts of the people better. After lunch we went to the Army and Navy Store, where I bought a mufl: of sable to match my stole. W(4 ate lunch at Selfrig's the American Department Store. There is a lovely roof garden (similar to that of the Hotel Ten M ontlis. on the Wing. lo La Salle in Chicago), where an orchestra dispenses sweet music the while you eat. We then went to the Bank of England and to St. Paul's. In the evening, Mr. Stevens called. Apeil 29th. — This morning we went to Eiling, a beautiful suburb, where the Stevens' used to live. We spent a pleasant hour in the park and came back to the hotel by another route. In the evening Mr. Stevens came and we went to Scala Theatre to see the Kinemacolors. Saw the King reviewing his troops (all in colors), the very scene we had witnessed at Hyde Park two days pre- viously. Then they showed some talking pictures, that moved and talked at the same time. April 30th. — After lunch we spent several hours in the Museum. Especially enjoyed the Egyptian vases and the Anthropological Department. To me, these mum- mies are the most pathetic things imaginable. Think of having your poor earthly remains handed around and ex- hibited to people for a thousand years after the soul had departed! One (to me) especially pathetic was a young girl with a metal wreath on her brow and her comb tucked in the side of her hair. How much to be preferred is the thought of "ashes to ashes, dust to dust" ! May 1st. — We went out to the Crystal Palace by electric tram. This palace was built for the first World's Exposition, in 1851. It was at that time quite near the center of the city. Some 5^ears since it was moved to its present location, and is now used as a permanent exhibi- tion and entertainment place, with a scenic railway, chutes and other amusements. The decorations are cheap. Most of the statuary is a reproduction of the original. Lyons have branches of their tea-houses here and a very nice lunch may be had at small cost. There is a monkey-and- parrot hall and a small aquarium. From the upper gal- lery a fine view may be had of the surrounding country. 16 Ten Months on the W ing . Every Thursday night there is a pyrotechnical display and good music. In the evening we went to a "movie" on N'ew Oxford Street. We are learning much about London from the top of the 'buses and can find our way without difficulty. May 2nd. — This morning J. went to Cook's to make inquiry about Norway, Whom should he run across but our guide of six years ago, Guido Cappo, who faithfully guided us when we traveled through Spain and Morocco. He is still with Cook's" and was delighted to meet J. again. He informed J. that we shall need a passport* for Pales- tine and India; so J. proceeded to interrogate the Ameri- can embassy, and found that he will be obliged to write back to Washington for a passport, and the same will h3 forwarded to us at Rome. In the afternoon we went out to Golders' Green on the 'bus. It is in the northwestern part of the city, near Hampstead Heath. Mr. Stevens called after tea to make arrangements for a day's outing at Croydon tomorrow. May 3rd. — The day has been rather cool and cloudy, but well suited to our purpose. We met Mr. Stevens at London Bridge Station at eleven-thirty, and took the train for Croydon, which is about twelve miles from London, It is a pleasant city of 167,000 inhabitants; or rather there are three cities. South Croydon, East Croydon and West Croydon. Arriving at the station, we walked through the city and park and out into the country; through lanes bordered by green trees and hedges; through fields of grass and daisies; through woods where the ground is covered with violets and anemones, interspersed with blue- bells; where the cuckoo is calling to his mate (the first we have ever heard), and the thrush and blackbird were chanting matins to the spring; where the "young man's fancy often turns to thoughts of love" — as was very evi- *This we found was unnecessary later. Ten Months, on the Wing. 17 dent from the numerous lovers strolling by, or sitting hand clasped in hand, or an arm encircling a slender waist, regardless of passersby. The blackbird of England is not the disreputable, harsh-voiced bird that comes in flocks to our alfalfa fields. He is much smaller and his song resembles in sweetness and variety that of our mock- ingbird. In fact, we mistook it for the latter until other- wise informed. A footpath led us through a lovely dale and up a hill on which is situated the reservoir that supplies the city water. Here we stopped at a tea-house, where we en- joyed a good substantial lunch. This we relished the more on account of our climb. Continuing our climb, we reached a high point where we had a splendid view of Pearly and Pearly Oaks, two pretty towns. Altogether, we walked seven miles or more. On returning to the city, we took a 'bus from i\vi Station and were home in time for tea. It was our in- tention to go to White Chapel tonight to see the noted London slums, but it rained and spoiled our plans. We are told to see it in all its glitter, one must go on Satur- day night when the weather is fine, else the population remains indoors. We went to the picture show near Hol- born Station, instead. May 4th. — Sunday — and a gloomy day ! Stayed in all forenoon; later we went for a walk. They were hold- ing services in St. Paul's and we stopped to hear the sing- ing and the peal of the great organ. Afterwards we walk- ed among the tombs of England's famous men; the most imposing is that of Nelson; among others of almost equal magnitude are those of Cornvi^'allis and Packenham — tlie latter was killed at New Orleans in the War of 1812. May 5th. — Our thirtieth anniversary ! J. went to Cook's to complete the arrangements for our tour of Nor- way. At five P. M. we walked down to get oiir steamer tickets, but they were not ready. 18 Ten Months on the Wing. May 6th. — J. went to Ludgate Circus and found a letter from Governor McDonald appointing him a dele- gate to the International Agricultural Convention, which meets in Eome this month ; but we have forwarded all our luggage to Berlin, and purchased tickets for a Norwegian tour; consequently we are unable to comply with his re- quest. It rained most of the day. Mr. Stevens came to bid us goodbye. May 7th. — We left London at ten A. M. and trav- eled four and one-half hours by train to Hull; our hotel is the Station Eoyal. Hull (situated on the north side of the Humber river) is an important shipping point — ^the third largest in England. It has some tine municipal buildings, three fine parks and some good statuary of fa- mous men. Its industries are varied. Fisheries, foun- dries, paper factories, tobacco manufacturing and oil re- fineries all flourish. Kay 8th. — We took a long ride on the tram this morning. At five this afternoon we left on the steamship Oslo, of the Wilson Line, for Norway. May 9th. — I was sick in bed all day. Captain Mas- sem says no matter how good a sailor one may be, the North Sea *'bowls him over." All the officers on board, excepting the captain, were sick. J. and he pretended not to feel any inconvenience over the rolling of the ship, but they lay around all day. The North Sea is always rough. On account of its shallowness, the least breeze disturl)s the water. Captain Massen says it is unusually rough at present. There are several ladies on board, and all have been ill. Enough of this for me; the "next time" I sha.'! go by way of Christiania. However, Avhen the new ocean liners from New York start, they will be large enough not to roll, and so have smooth sailing. Ten Months on the \Y ing . 19 May IOtii. — A glorious day! We are inside the Songne Fjord, consequently the waters are pacific. Once upon a time, long, long ago, after most of the world was created, the Evil One wandered around and around over land and sea. When he saw that all was fair and beautiful, he was filled with wrath, and seizing an immense rock, he hurled it into the North Sea. It was so large that for many hundreds of miles it stood out of the water — a terrible region of dark cliffs, sharp peaks Avith narrow ridges and stony valleys, without one single blade of grass or vegetation of any kind. Then the good Lord looked down with pity upon the waste, and threw here and there a little soil, which fortunately still re- mains. Moreover, he commanded great shoals of fish to come yearly to the far north, where the cliffs and crags were most forbidding. Thus was man enabled to dwell in peace and happiness in Norway, {From the Sagas.) The scenery is indescribably beautiful and must be seen to be appreciated. It varies at every turn of the boat around a bend in the fjord. High, snow-covered mountains in the background, with a foreground of dark mountains covered in places with a growth of somber pines; and again with the pale green of deciduous trees just putting on their spring garb. More often the moun- tains are solid stone, where nothing can grow but moss. At times we pass through narrow straits where one miglit throw a stone on shore, and then the fjord widens for a distance of a mile or two. We reached Stavanger about six A. M. It is called the "Threshold of Norway." It is a quaint old place with many fish canneries and warehouses along the quay. It was founded in the eleventh century during the reign of Olaf Kyrre, and is one of the oldest of Norwegian towns. The cathedral is a prototype of Westminster, During the middle ages Stavanger was only a small fishing village; now it is an important shipping point. King Harold Fair- hair once had a palace here. The houses remind one of pictures of mediaeval architecture. We stopped here sev- 30 Ten Months on the Wing. eral hours^ loading and unloading cargo. There are fif- teen steamers a week that ply the waters between Stavan- ger and Bergen. Soon after leaving Stavanger we passed several light- houses. Near here we traversed the open and unsheltered mouth of the Burkenfjord, which opens out into the sea. Passing numerous small fishing villages, we soon arrived at Haugesund, a town of over 95,000 population. This was only a very small village until eighteen years ago. It was a herring fishing ground and grew to a town of a thousand inhabitants, when suddenly, without any apparent provocation, the herring left the place and it dwindled to almost nothing. Eighteen years ago they as suddenly returned, and now the town is a flourishing city; but if they make another departure, the town will be a "back number" once more, as there is nothing el.^e to support it. Many of the islands are of solid rock, entirely bare of vegetation. Others have one or two houses on them. In every cozy nook there is a village, and on every promon- tory a lighthouse, forming an entrancing picture. Cap- tain Massem is a man of wide and varied experience, and as he and J. are brother Masons, he has been especially kind to us. He says that geologists tell him that these mountains are not of volcanic origin, but have been the bed of the sea at one time, and the fjords v/ere made by glaciers. Some of them have the appearance of having been made of mud, thrown up with a spade and then al- lowed to petrify. After passing Lyngholmen, which opens out into the sea, we enter a land-locked fjord which continues up to Bergen, where we arrived at seven-thirty P. M. It is still as light as day. Hotel Smaby.— The sun shone until eight P. ML ; it is still light enough for me to write at nine-thirty without artificial light. Bergen is the commercial center of the country, tht» capital of Western Norway, and said to be in the heart of Ten M ontlis. on the W ing . 21 the most beautiful part of the country. As yet, we can- not verify this, as we have not seen any other. But this is lovely enough to satisfy the most exacting taste. The M^eather is delightful thus far — similar to our own. The city was founded by Olaf Kyrre in 1070 — has a popula- tion of 40,000. The city rises in terraces to a consider- able height up the side of the mountain at whose base it is situated. A steep road zigzags to the top, and Sunday sees everybody, young and old, enjoying a walk or drive up the hill, for it is the park of Bergen. The slopes are covered with trees and flowers. The birds are said to bo in a quandary as to the time to seek their rest, but chick- ens go to roost about the usual time, even though it is still light. People with their children begin to go to the park, when we Americans would be preparing to go to bed. May 11th. — We walked down the Strandgaten, the street on which our hotel is located. It runs the full length of the city north and south. Continuing our walk, we passed by the Hotel Metropole, the largest in Bergen: on through the Kygaard Park by the Norge, and thence to Fredericksberg and the lovely park in connection there- with. A splendid view of Puddefjorden is obtained ro the east of the town. We wandered along a shady drive back to the hotel. After lunch we went out on the tram to the end of the line at Kalfaret, where the road leads up the moun- tain — mentioned above — called Floifjeld, 2010 feet high. Besides the driveway, there are numerous footpaths; hun- dreds of people were strolling among the trees and by- ways; even little tots of three and four were climbing the steep, as though it were play. Half way up we decided it was too much like real labor, as the sun shone quite warm, so we turned back. The panorama that greets the vision is of incompara- ble loveliness, almost, if not quite, rivaling Switzerland. To the north lies a fertile valley of green trees and flower- ing uplands, while to the east rose another range of moun- 28 Ten Months on the JV ing . tains — the TJlriken, brown and bare; at their base the Puddefjord, farther in the background lies another large fjord; to the south the Vallestromen meets the Pudde- fjord hundreds of feet below where we stand. Bergen is surrounded b}^ seven mountains. From where we stand it looks like a miniature fairy land — the bright reds and rich browns of the houses embowered in green trees form an entrancing scene. It looks as though done in water colors by the brush of a master artist. Golden dandelions gleam like stars in the verdant turf. It is good to be alive, just to enjoy God's out-of-doors on such a day! At seven o'clock we were back at the hotel, the sun still an hour high. J. speaks Norwegian as fluently as the Irishman spoke Spanish in Tucumcari. Mat 12th. — We visited the Hanseatic Museum, es- tablished by the German Government by permission of the Danish Government, in 1559. The Germans drove out all the English and Dutch traders, monopolizing all the trade. They held sway for upwards of two centuries, over all commerce with the Northland. However, in 1763 it reverted to the Norwegians. The old building occupied by the Museum is just as it was during the German occu- pation. It is built of hand-hewn boards. It contains many ancient curios; also the built-in beds. No married man was allowed in the em]3loy of the company, but, as is usually the case, they found ways of avoiding the issue. A cupboard in one corner was a ruse by which females were admitted to the rooms above by a narrow stairway; if they heard any noise, the girls disappeared into the cupboard. We met a young man who is anxious to learn to speak English. He escorted us over to the Museum of Paintings and Industrial Arts, where there are a few genuine pictures and a few bronzes. An interesting relic is Ole Bull's violin with a broken string. At nine o'clock we went to the picture show and saw T e n M o n t h s. on the ^V i n g . 23 a "wild west" scene. At ten we went for a walk through the park; it was still sunciently light to see the flagpole on the top of Floif jeldet. The Torvet^ or fish market, is one of the interesting places to visit, but trying to the olfactory nerves. May 13th.— Today we went across the ferry to Haa- kon's Hall and the Valkendorf's or Eosenkrantz Tower; climbed the latter one hundred steps to the top; then down into the dungeons. There is nothing of interest to Haa- kon Hall excepting it is where Haakon Haakonson lived ; it has an old bath, speaking tube, and some ancient can- non balls — was built in the eleventh century. In the afternoon we hired a carriage and drove to Fjosanger to visit the old Stave kirk of Fantoft. I wis.h that I might make you a kinemecolor of every foot of the road. We have never enjoyed a more charming drive; through sylvan glens and upland forests of bright ver- dure, looking down into dark tarns that suggest to the mind Poe's Ullalume, "Here once through a valley titanic, of cypress — I roamicd with my soul. Where the earth was a velvet sward of yellow, pink and green." It is no wonder that a country like this should produce an Ole Bull, for he lacked not inspiration. One feels that it would be the natural thing to paint, or compose epics, or write themes like Ibsen and Bjornson BJordson. The road is circuit- ous. We came home through Kalfaret, past the ceme- tery where Ole Bull is buried. Our hotel is next door to Nykirke; the bells ring al- most as m.uch as in Mexico City. The streets are narrow in this part of the town and paved with flat cobble-stones, which are hard on the feet — and the nerves also suffer, as the noise of vehicles is deafening at times. The most beau- tiful villas are on the east side, near NyGaard Park, but there are many handsome residences on the mountain side, clinging like birds' nests, almost overhanging the town. They have a singular mode of advertising by putting their names in bronze into the narrow sidewalks, or by 24 T e n Mont h s on the W ing . representing their wares in like manner. For instance, an umbrella store will have a bronze umbrella imbedded in the walk in front. There is a large hospital for lepers near the cemetery. The Eantoft is a German kirk of a peculiar style of architecture, resembling a Chinese pagoda. It is situated in a dense grove of trees at the top of a high hill. At one time it belonged to an American Consul, who bought it to prevent its being demolished ; he sold it to the Ger- mans. May 14th. — Dear Sisters : I must write you about the lovely town of Balholmen. We are at Kvickney's Ho-_ tel; it is nine o'clock at night; I am sitting out on the balcon}'' that overhangs the fjord; it is light enough to write and read. This is a handsome, commodious tour- ists' hotel. The balconies oj)en off of every room; there are three large drawing rooms and a ballroom. It is a very popular summer resort. There are no electric lights; we use lamps and candles; the heating arrangement seems very inadequate for a cold climate — a small stove that would not hold a shovelful of coal. Balholmen has numer- ous cataracts that would furnish ideal waterpower to gen- erate electricity, and no doubt they will have it ere long. There are numerous hotels and private villas, Just now preparing for summer guests. We met some ladies from Pennsylvania who have villas and come here every year. We have walked several miles since landing, and find it a very pleasant place. I would like to spend the sum- mer here. There is a fine beach for bathing, and boat ex- cursions. The surrounding mountains are capped with snow; one is a veritable Jung-Frau in miniature. We came up the Songne Fjord, one of the largest fjords in Norway. The scenery is incomparable. Our boat, the Sogne, carries all kinds of produce, from a chicken to a cow, or horse, and stops at every small vil- lage. However, one only enjoys it the more; it is so T e n M onths on the W ing . 25 pleasant to linger on the placid bosom of the beautiful fjords, where the scenery varies with every bend of the shore. The menu on board the boat was extremely Norwe- gian. It consisted of five varieties of fish, four kinds of sausage, boiled ham, cold beef, potatoes, bread and foar varieties of cheese — no sweets. I am so tired of fish, es- pecially boiled, that it makes me ill to look at a reel and tackle. May 15th. — This morning we walked to the head of the fjord, a distance of three miles, and made several ko- dak pictures. Both air and scenery are inviting to the senses, and still I should not wish to sacrifice myself on the altar of beauty. Here is solitude, if one is seeking it, that would satisfy the most confirmed recluse. If you really wish to find "that lodge in the wilderness" we so often speak of, come to the fjords of Norway. But this refers to the season when there are no tourists. Later there will be men with reel and rod, hook and line, moun- tain climbers, kodak fiends, saints and sinners, fools and sages, and quiet will be at a premium for two months. After the first of September they will quietly fade away. Peace and solitude will reign once more. This afternoon Mr. Kvickney took us across the fjord in his rowboat, and we tramped three miles through the trees — this making twelve miles we have walked today, yet I am not tired. One can walk further on grass or earth than on pavements, without fatigue. May 16th. — We went on a long tramp around the fjord. On a hill near the hotel is the grave of King Bai- ley, an ancient Viking. There is a large tree growing out of the mound with a rustic seat under it. May 17th. — "If thou wouldst read a lesson that will keep Thy heart from fainting, and thy soul from sleep Go to the woods and hills." 36 Ten Months on the W ing . Thus spake our immortal Longfellow. ^N'orway is certain- ly the paradise of — perhaps not woods — but hills and water. At nine P. M. I am looking out over the Fjear- land Fjord, green as an emerald in its rich setting of brown rocky slopes and white peaks, for here the snoA\' lies heavy still, though May is half gone. We left Balholmen yesterday at ten P. M., the boat, Gudvangen, being four hours late on account of carrying freight for all the towns on the fjord — it requires much time to unload at each stop. It appears to us Americans that they need freight boats so that passengers can make better time between points. It was one-thirty A. M. ere we reached Fjearland, or Mundal, as the little town is called; but we found comifortable quarters and warm hos- pitality although we arrived unexpectedly, being the veiy first visitors of the season. Tourists are not looked for before the first of June in this mountain region. Our early arrival is a great advantage, as we are close to the people, and learn more of them than we possibly could when the places are crowded. We feel drawn to them by their exceeding kindness and universal hospitality. At Bergen Mr. Smaby went to considerable trouble to show us the places of interest, and at Balholmen the Kvickneys both showed us marked kindness that came from a desire to please, not through a mercenary motive, as is so often the case. On leaving, Mr. Kvickney came down to see us off, and to bring me a lovely bouquet of my favorite flowers, narcissus poeticus. Here we find obliging courtesy from Mr. and Mrs. Dahley and Mr. Mundal, her brother. Mrs. Dahley is a wonderful genius in household arts. I wish that some of my artistic friends might see the unique and altogether original rugs that she has made with the help of mountain girls. They card and spin the wool, while she dyes the yarn Avith herbs and bark that grov;" on the mountains; not only that, she designs them.. They truly rival the Persian rugs in beauty and durability, lasting for an hun- dred years — so 'tis said. The colors fade not. Ten Months on the Wing. 37 This afternoon we had our first experience with a stolkjaerre, or cart, driving seven miles to the foot of the Suphellebrae, part of the Jostedalsfond Glacier, which is four hundred square miles in extent. Another point of the same glacier that may be reached from Fjearland is called Barabrea. One can see it from a great distance, but distances here are like our Southwest, very deceptive. This point in particular appears to be about one mile away, but in reality is seven. I must tell you about tlie stolkjaerre. It is a two-wheeled cart, the seat quite nar- row. It is drawn by a diminutive mountain pony, whose usual color is a light dun. The cart has a seat for two persons, the seat being almost a foot in Vv^idtli; the cart has a low dashboard and a seat behind, similar to a one- horse sulky plow. One would not care to ride all day on one of them., although we may have it to do later. One is awed and overv/helmed at the sight of these tremendous glaciers. We had to walk over a large ava- lanche of snow in the road, and this was no easy matter. The glacier is more attractive later in the summer. When the snow is melted off, its surface is a deep transparent blue, like sapphire. Mrs. Dahley says in June she stands among her roses and gazes up at a great blue field of glass, as it Vv^ere. While we stood gazing, there came a sound as of thunder, and down plunged great boulders of ice, crashing and booming like artillery; after some five minutes we heard a mighty roar, as a heavy sheet of water burst from under an overhanging mass, and a torrential cataract resulted which lasted for a short space of timiC, but was soon exhausted. We find it colder here than at Bergen, owing to the fact of its being further inland from the warm Gulf Cur- rent. We read that Christiania is much colder for the same reason. We find the cuisine in the good hotels superior to that of England. Of course there are dishes that do not appeal to an American palate, but there is a sufficient va- riety to satisfy any reasonable person. 28 Ten M otiths on the W i n g . May l^TH. — This is the national holiday — the nine- ty-fourth anniversary of Norwegian Independence. They are a very patriotic people; flags were Avaving, cannon boomed all during the day. "Old Glory" waved from the top of our hotel, and I can tell you it caused deep emo- tion to see it in a foreign land. J. doffed his hat at sight of it. The Norwegian flag is quite pretty, possibly next to our own in beauty, being composed of the same colors — a red ground, with the passion cross in blue, outlined in white. May 18th. — Mr. Dahley and his brother-in-law, Mr. Mundal, rowed us over the fjord, after which we walked five miles, climbing the mountain quite a distance to get a good view of the valley, mountain and fjord. Our boat to Balholmen is eight hours late. We left Mundal on the Fjearland Fjoird at ten-thirty A. M. and reached Balholmen at one-thirty this morning — an unearthly hour in which to arrive, but Mr. Knut Kvickney was up to welcome us back. We are very fond of him — he is so kind. May 19th, Tuesday. — We left Balholmen at one- thirty P. M. for Gudvangen; came up the Sogne Fjord, stopping at ten towns on the way. The scenery is gro^v- ing grander and the mountains more stupendous and ghoulish, putting on different shades of purple and gray. We noted one place in particular where great battlements rose high above us, where a narrow weird-lilce gorge cut in between forbidding cliffs, and over all a dark vapor Inmg like a funeral pall, while in the remote background arose a tall white chimney of snow. Here day seemed to be seeking its gloomy chamber of repose. J. said, "I am glad that we don't have to go into that place; I believe the Devil has his den in there." Now, it so happened that we had to do that very thing, for it was the m-outh of tlie Naerodal Fjord. But no Evil Spirit found us! We went further up the Sogne, traveling for two hours, and then T e n A[ onths on the W i ng . 29 turned back and entered the very gorge which had ap- peared not more than wide enough lor a rowboat, but ':•• quite broad when once you get inside. The Naerodal i? considered the ne plus ultra of Norwegian fjords. For the height of its cliffs, it outrivals anything we have ever seen, unless it be the Grand Canyon of Arizona. At Gudvangen, where we arrived at eleven P. M., is the beautiful Kilefos, which falls from a height of 2,500 feet; the upper fall is perfectly perpendicular for 500 feet, when it strikes a projecting rock and is dashed into a cloud of spray. We found in the Hotel Hansen, and in the landlady, the same Norwegian hospitality that we have found every- where in this country. We climbed into the stolkjaerres at ten-thirty A. M. in a heavy shower of cold rain. We had to hire an extra stolkjaerre to carry our luggage, as we were disappointed in getting the carriage for which our tickets called. Then for a drive of five miles between dark frowning mountains that rise to a height of four and five thousand feet. The tracks of tremendous avalanches may be seen on all sides of the narrow canyon. The road ascends the mountain in sixteen steep curves; it is well macadamized, and has an iron balustrade on the cliff' side. J. had to walk, as the load was too heavy for the small ponies; even then we had to stop at many ''rests" that are prepared in such a manner as to hold the stolkjaerre while the pony has time to get wind for the next pull. It is 1,120 feet to rhe summit of Stalheim. Just at the top we came to 1wo beautiful v/aterfalls. We did not learn the name of the one on the right, but the one on the left is the Sivlefo^;, meaning "bridal veil," the grandest and highest of all the falls. It is a cloud of vapor that spreads over the clLif like a giant veil of tulle. "Earth crowned with heaven. And every common bush aflame with God. But only those who see, take off their hat, The rest sit round and pluck blackberries." 30 Ten M otitks on the W i n g . Immediately in front of ns is the gray dome peak of Jordalsnuten, 3,600 feet high. We intended to stop at Stalheim a day or two, but the hotel is undergoing re- pairs, so we must on to Framnaes, a favorite resort of English sportsmen which is noted for its hunting and fishing. (The Emperor of Germany has a cottage at Stalheim, and one at Halholmen also.) It had snowed, sleeted, and rained on us all morn- ing. So the steaming hot soup, the hot coffee, and cheer- ful fire were welcomed accordingly. May 20th. — At four we left our comfortable quarters (the boys in the meantime having fed the ponies) and started down grade for Vossevangen, through lofty wooded hills, mostly pine and Norway sj)ruce. The snowy peaks of Loenhorgen 4,680 feet high, are visible from the road. A short while before reaching Vossevangen we came to the Tvinlefos, where the traveler may alight and walk under the falls. We were too cold and wet just then to care for more sight-seeing. We arrived at our destination about six-fifteen and soon the maid had a good fire to warm us. May 21st. — There is a fascination about a Norwe- gian house that appeals to us strongly. They are usuallv painted dark red, with many windows and numerous ga- bles ; from the top of each of these protrudes a dragon- head, which is generally white with red eyes. These houses find an appropriate setting in this unusual land- scape. May 22nd. — This morning we started by rail for Christiania from Vossevangen. The road is a steep ascent until we reach Finse — passing through one hundred and ninety tunnels en route. For several hours the scenery is lovely — green mountains and rivers whose waters are a transparent green, churned into white foam where they plunge over the numerous falls and cascades. At Grove the snow-covered peaks of Loenhorgen and Hondalsnuten are visible. Then we came to a high plateau, and soon were climbing up dark tenebrous mountains where summer Ten Months on the Wing. 31 really never arrives. Indeed they called to mind the Mountains of Despair, and Sloughs of Despond in Pil- grim's Progress. It is a gloomy, forbidding sight. At Finse they have skiing all the year round. The train runs through many great snowsheds, and is hardly out of one tunnel until it is into another. Where open spaces exist, they look down into deep frozen lakes. It v.^ould be almost like being imprisoned to live here, although there are several stations with good hotels, and fishing is good in the short summer. From here the railwa}^ descends into fairer fields; and spring has arrived. Later we climb up again, but see no more snow; instead, there are large for- ests of Norway spruce, broad shallow streams and placid lakes, where one sees a great many rafts of logs being carried down to be sawed up and shipped to England. One of Cook's men from Egypt was on the train. He said we would find Egypt very hot. We reached Christiania at ten P. M. — Hotel Noble. May 23rd. — J. went to Cook's in the forenoon for information about the city. After lunch we v,^alked up to the King's Palace and Museum of Industrial Arts. A^"e then went to Cook's to make arrangements for a sight- seeing tour tomorrow. Drove with a guide to all the places of importance. We were especially interested in the ancient Viking ship in the University grounds. Also in the Art Museum, where there is a good collection of Norwegian paintings and some sculpture. In the afternoon we went to the ferry to see some curious houses built in the sixteenth century; also enjoyed a collection of Catholic relics. On our return we went to the Storthing. Congress had just adjourned for the day. It is an unpretentious house, but quite tasteful in st3'le of architecture. As the Norwegians have no royalty, everything is simple and democratic. The King may walk around the city and enjoy life like any other man. The little street urchins speak to him in most friendly terms. 33 Ten M onths on the Wing. May 24th. — Left Christiania at seven-thirty A. M.; reached Copenhagen at ten thirty P. M. The scenery from Christiania is not grand when compared to that we have been seeing. There is more land in cultivation than on the west side. In places it resembles Illinois or Mis- souri. There are fine rivers, and a great deal of timber is exported. Kornsjo is the last station in Norway. • At Hogensund is the Swedish Custom House. Beyond Ed, the scenery is devoid of interest. There are numerous bogs where they were cutting peat, as they do in Ireland. Here we see great windmills, such as are used in Holland to pump the Avater from off the land. We ran almost lengthwise through Sweden until we reached Helsingor, where one car and the locomotive were ferried over the Sound to Elsinore. The boat passes quite near the Castle of Kronsborg, built by Frederick II in 1584 — presumed to be the scene of Shakespeare's "Ham- let." From Elsinore to Copenhagen is about thirty-six miles. May 25th. — Hotel d'Engleterre. — Today we went to Frederiksborg Garden ; also the Zoological Garden — one of the finest parks in Europe. May 26th. — Employed a guide and went first to Rosenborg Castle, which contains a splendid chronologi- cal collection of relics of the Kings of Denmark, dating from 1568 up to the present time. The castle was origin- ally a pleasure resort of King Kristian I, who did more toward the advancement of Denmark than any of the kings. We walked down on the Strand, where are still stand- ing many of the houses that he built for his mariners — he was very fond of the sea. On the Strand is a large boulder brought from Sweden; on one side are carved three men, a sled and two dogs; two of the men are rep- resented as dead, and the other as dying. The other side contains their names and chronicles of their exploits ia Ten Months, o n the W i n g . 33 Greenland. They succeeded in crossing from the eastern to the western side, but died before succor arrived. From there we went to the Glyptoteck, a fine mu- seum of sculpture and paintings, done mostly by Norwe- gians. One especially impressive gToup is a man weighed down with the responsibilities of life, wiping the tears of discouragement from his eyes ; his son, who has been hold- ing his father's hand, has dropped it as he looks back over the road they have traversed; the wife with the babe looks to heaven and the strong arm of her husband for support and guidance. We then went to see the beautiful Thorvaldsen Mar- bles of the twelve Apostles in the Frau Kirke. In the evening we went out to the "Coney Island" of Copenhagen, where v/e ate our dinner. The waiter, wlio thought he spoke English Huently, said our bill was ^5, 90s, which would be over $85.00; he intended to say 5 kroner 90 oer. May 27th. — Left Copenhagen at seven A. M. The train is ferried across the Sound at two different places; the first only requires fifteen minutes; the second, two hours. We first touch Germany at Warnemunde, and ar- rive at Berlin at nine P. M. Stopping at Hotel Prince Albrecht, Albrecht Strasse. M]ay 28th.— Dear Sisters : This morning J. went to Cook's and found some letters from home.- We are al- ways happy to get them, you seem so near just then, ft is lovely to travel and see the world, but the best of all is the thought that the big United States is still there to go back to Vv^hen we weary of other places. We took a walk this evening and went to a picture show. May 29th. — ^We went with a party of "rubbernecks" on a tour of the city. In the afternoon visited the Na- tional Gallery Avitli Miss Helen Fitzgerald, of New York 34- Ten M ontlis on th e -W ing . and Cork^ Ireland; we saw some good pictures, and some that were not good. May 30th^ Friday. — We went on a tour to Potsdam; the route lies along the Linden, through the Brandenburg Gate and the Tiergarten, by Charlottenburg Chausee, passing Bismarck Strasse; then along the military road cut through the Grunewald Forest by Emperor William II. From here through Grunewald to Wansee, then by motor boat down the river Havel, which here forms a wide lake, where are situated several summer homes of the princes of Germany. We landed at the Cafe at Potsdam, visited the palace built by the Great Elector in 1768 — Potsdam being his favorite residence. Another palace, called Schloss Sans Souci, in rococo style, is very attractive. Both palaces are full of treasures collected by the kings. The decorations and tapestries are exquisite, and many of the paintings are by great masters. Napoleon occupied one of the suites during the short time he was in Berlin. One statue that was more than ordinarily impressive was that of Frederick the Great the day before his death. He is reclining in his chair in his night clothes, propped up with pillows, gazing out of the v\dndow on his favorite walk in the garden. He is said to have remarked as the sun went down that he would never see it rise again; he passed away at two A. M. The statue is a beautiful crea- tion; the emaciated countenance has every appearance of one who is looking into the future world, and is full of passive suffering. The Dresden room is very ornate with its festoons of flowers depending from the cornice, carved out of wood and painted in natural colors. Here are many lovely pieces of Dresden ware. This was formerly the royal bed- chamber. Passing into the Garrison Church, we see the simple tomb of Frederick the Great. The coffin was made years before his demise, and kept in the palace. The Masons Ten Months on the Wing. 35 of England have just been here and placed a beautiful wreath of laurel on the sarcophagus. The drive continues, passing the historical windmill, which made so much noise that it disturbed the slumbers of the Emperor. He wanted to buy it and tear it down, but the miller would not sell ! The law decided in favor of the miller; so it still belongs to his descendants. We walked down the fine terrace and gardens and came back through a splendid forest of beeches; along through the Siegesallee, bordered by statues of the heroes of the Franco- German wars. Berlin is a magnificent, up-to-date city; broad, clean streets, handsome buildings, fine trees, numerous monu- ments, pretty flower beds, inviting parks and places of rest. May 31st. — Visited the Eredericksberg Gallery; most interesting to us were the bronze statues of Freder- ick der Gross, altar-pieces by Bartolome, Andrea de la Eobbia, Vivarini, and Paris Bardone. The upper floor is given up to France, Spain and the Netherlands, with a few German paintings. There are some beautiful sea pieces by Euysdael, fine things by Hurbert and A^an Eyck. Among the Eubens' there is a splendid Vision of Daniel and several others, all of them showing the face of his wife. Another fine work is Van Dyck's Diana and the Nymphs Surprised iy the Satyr. There are some woji- derful tapestries made in Brussels from well-known car- toons of Eaphael; St. Anthony of Padua, by Murillo; Velasquez' Portrait of a Lady, Tivo Little Girls and The Woman With the Parrot, are among the best in the Span- ish collection. June 1st, Sunday. — Walked through the Siegesallee down to the Column of Victory and statue of Bismarck — the latter made from cannons captured in the German wars; then on to the Eeichstag, where we met our old 36 Ten Months on the Wing. friend from Denmark who was so kind to ns on the train. In the afternoon we went to the "Zoo." June 2nd. — Stood for over an hour on Fredericks- berg Strasse to see the Kaiser go by. He had been re- viewing the troops early in the morning, and this was on the line of parade when they returned to the city. He re- sembles the pictures with which we are all familiar. In the afternoon we walked down to the Old Mu- seum, but could not get in, so went to Konegen Platz. The monument to the men who defended the Fatherland is the finest thing of the kind in Germany — it is heroic in size. The four lions are extraordinary for workmanshij) and design. On top of peristile at either end is a statue of "Victory" driving a chariot drawn by four horses. This is the statue that Napoleon carried away to Paris, but it was brought back after his downfall. We walked down Unter den Linden to the Tier Gar- ten and climbed the Tower of Victory for a view of the city. June 3ed. — We spent the morning preparing to go to Dresden. In the afternoon, we three visited the King's Museum of Industrial Arts, one of the most interesting in Berlin. It contains a fine collection of majolicas, por- celains, tapestries and jewelry. June 4th. — Left Berlin at nine-fifteen A. M. Ar- rived at Dresden at twelve-fifteen P. M. Hotel Windsor. After dinner we went shopping on the V\''allstrasse at Herm Muhlberg's. Later, we walked about town to get the location of places. Went to the Bruhl Terrace and the Belvedere Garden; here we met a young girl who showed me some small pieces in porcelain. She remarked in perfect English, or American, "Ain't they cute?'^ But when I tried to converse with her about them, she could not speak another word in English. Ten Months on the Wing. 37 Miss Fitzgerald, the young lady whom we met in Berlin, is stopping at the Pension Todd, near by, June 5th. — We went to the Picture Grallerj'-, where there are many masterpieces. The most famous of all, Eaphael's Madonna, occupies a room to itself. It is an altar-piece eight feet high and six feet wide, (so called from the Church of Benedictines at Piacenza) — The Vir- gin and Child in the Clouds, with St. Sixtus on the right and St. Barbara on the left, together v/ith the two cherubs underneath, are indisputably a work of the great master's own hand throughout. A curtain has just been with- drawn, and the Virgin issues as if from the vault of Hea- ven, awe-inspiring and serene, her large eyes taking in the whole world in their gaze. "The idea of a sudden re- vealed mystery hitherto concealed could not be better con- ceived." The Saints should not be overlooked, contrasted as they are in age, expression and movement — they sup- plement each other effectively. They must be thought of in connection with the whole community of Christians. St. Sixtus, reverent and pious, recommends himself to the Virgin's mercy — the beaming face of St. Barbara repre- sents the joyful enthusiasm of the redeemed." This was painted about 1515. Among the choice Italiati productions are Cosonio Pier and Holy Family, by Palnia Vecchio; Venus on the Wate?^ Lily, by Paolo Veronese; Faith, Hope and Charity introduced into the Cuccini Family; Titian's Portrait of His Daughter, Lavinia; Veronese's Finding of Moses and The Good Samaritan; also his Adoration of the Magi and Daniel Barbara; Titian's Portrait of Antonio Pahna; some fine things by Tintoretto; Corregio's Adoration of the Shepherds; his far-famed masterpiece of chiaroscuro. The Holy Night, Madonna Enthroned with Saint Francis, Saint Anthony and John The Baptist; and St. Catherine, a work of his youth. There is another Madonna Enthron- ed, with George, Peter, John the Baptist and Geminiam. In another room are Caravaggio's Card Sharper; (this is 38 Ten Months on the Wing. a picture not easily forgotten) ; some fine tapestries exe- cuted in England from Eapliael's Cartoons; St. Sebastian with the Venetian Canal; Cagliano's Presentation of The, Virgin — exquisite in color; Titian's Madonna and Saints and Palma Veccliio's Three Sisters is very good. Titian's Tribute Money embodies the most subtle thought; ''the contrast between the majestic calm of the God-like coun- tenance of Christ and the low cunning of the Pharisee is sublime. The form of Christ was never better conceived, nor was the brightness of the coloring ever excelled." Franc Francia's Adoration of the Magi and Lorenzo di Credi's Madonna are splendid; Francibiizio's Story of Uriah's Letter is peculiar; Guido Eeni's Ecce Homo is wonderful; and Claude Lorrain's landscapes are always fine; as are Euysdael's. Don's Schoolmaster at a Window, Man with a Violin and The Hermit are singularly beau- tiful ; Van der Meer's Girl Reading a Letter at a Windom is excellent; Hobbema's Wi?idmill, like all of his works, looks cool and the colors are fine; G. Metsu's Lacemal-ers has a fine light. Altogether, there are two thousand two hundred and thirtyfive productions of the old masters, and three hundred and ninety-five of the modern schools — the finest among the latter, in my opinion, is The Lions' Den, Gudvangen in Noriuay and a Sunset ui Scot- land. June 6th. — Went shopping. I find that a small hat is a nuisance in this hot sun — they tell us we will need topies in India, else v/e may suffer sunstroke. In the afternoon Ave three went to the Eacknitz, where General Moreau was mortally wounded in 1813. Three oak trees grow over his grave. i^^Tearby is a large monument to Bismarck, with a rustic seat under the shade of a tree. June 7tii, Saturday. — ^]\Iiss Fitzgerald, J., a j^oung lady from Irdianapolis and myself went down the Elbe by boat to Mfeisen — a two hours' sail. We first visited the T e n M oaths o n the Wing. ,39 porcelain factory. Here we watched them make porce- lain, from start to finish, which was of more interest to us than any museum. It requires great aptitude and long practice to become proficient in this particular art of Dresden, but I believe that I could do this with proper training. This would be one line of art where my deft fingers and knowledge of the harmony of colors could ob- tain to some degree of perfection. Each tiny petal of a flower, each minute finger, or other member of the body, is moulded with dexterity by the nimble fingers of the workers. When all is finished, and it has twice gone to the kiln, the painters or decorators do their part, when it is again sent to the kiln for the last time. We climbed the hill to the ancient Castle of Albrecht- burg, erected in 1471 by brothers of the co-regents, Er- nest and Albert. It contains some good paintings, several wooden statues and some frescoes. It is one of the larg- est and most extensive castles of that period; decorated in Eococo style, with vaulted ceilings and Eomanesque ar- chitecture. It commands a fine viev/ of the surrounding country and river. A cathedral built in the thirteenth century contains some peculiar tombs, hundreds of years old. The old Franciscan Church is now a m.useum of Catholic relics. We came back to our hotel by train. June 8th, Sunday. — J. and I went to the Groser Garten in the afternoon to hear the music, then out foi- a car ride. In the evening we walked down Prager Strasse and went to a picture shov/. What a great thing the pic- ture shows have been in acquainting people all over the world with each other's countries and mode of life! — we see "Wild West" scenes, pictures of our great cities, our mountains, railroads, industries, et cetera. Thus people who are unable to travel may see and know about otlier parts of the world. June 9th. — Hotel Terminus. — We left Dresden at twelve-ten and reached Mhinich at ten-ten P. M. Traveled 40 Ten M o n t h s on the W ing . through a pretty rural country, past numerous villages, basking amidst fertile fields and wooded hills. Eye is the prevailing crop — it grows to perfection here. June 10th. — This morning we went shopping. In the afternoon we walked to the Karl Platz, the Lenbach Platz and the Maximilian Platz. This we followed down to the lovely river Isar. Several stone bridges span tlie street. At the end of lli'lJaximilian Platz is the Maximilia- lum, founded by Maximilian II for the instruction of Soyal pages and other students. Next to it is the Maxi- milian Aulagen, a splendid park — (they seem to run to "Maximilianism" here!) We walked by the New Court of Justice, the German Museum, the Government Build- ing and the Mint and Post Office. After dinner we had another long walk. Munich is a very pleasant city to visit. June 11th. — Went on a "rubberneck" excursion in the forenoon. Among the places we visited are the new Palace of Justice, the Old Palace, with its clock, tower and chimes; the Ludwig Kirke Synagogue, the Residenze. In the afternoon to the Army Mtiseum, ministerial resi- dences of Greece and Belgium, the Crystal Palace, con- taining an interesting international art exhibit, then out to Bavarian Euhmeshalle, containing the busts of eighty Bavarians; on past the English Garden, Frauen Kirke, and several other places of note. We stopped at Luipcid Cafe for refreshments — said to be the finest cafe in Eu- rope. We also went to the German Museum and saw a collection of old and new models illustrating the progress in industrial arts, coal mining and engineering. Here is one of the automobiles that made the New York-to-Paris tour of 37,000 miles. June 12th. — ^This forenoon we went through the Alte Pinakothek, viewing its collection of old masters; the most noted is Ruben's Battle of the Amazons — which T e n i¥ o n t It s o n t h e W i n g . 4J. stands next to Eapliael's Battle of Constantine. This is a magnificent worlc of art. In my judgment, Euben's Cru- cifixion is the finest thing of its kind Ave liave ever seen. There are several beautiful Murillos. I admire intensely his colorings and conceptions. After lunch we went to the Hofbrauhaus, or Court Brewery, the largest drinking establishment in the world. Here the smallest quantity of beer one can buy is one quart and three-quarters, and costs three cents downstairs — upstairs it costs a little more. There were hundreds of men and numerous women drinking and gossiping, but no one was intoxicated; the beer contains very little al- cohol. There is a large hall on the second floor, where concerts are held. It contains long rows of tables ; cjuaint old pictures adorn the walls. June IStii. — We left Munich at twelve-ten and ar- rived at Lindau at tv,'o P. M. Here we left the car and crossed Lake Constance. Into Switzerland ! Switzerland, June 13th, jSTatioNxIl Hotel. — Ar- rived in Zurich at five P. M. yesterday. We always love to come to Zurich; it is a progressive town for Europe, and has made quite a growth since we were here six years ago. It is a most delightful place to visit ; we should like to spend a summer here. We met a Mr. Coster and wife from New York; they were on the train from Munich. I walked down the Banhofstrasse with them this morning. It was an interesting sight; the street is about a mile long, and was lined on each side from end to end with marketers of flowers and vegetables of all kinds; the housewives, carrying baskets, were bartering v/ith the hucksters and taking their day's supplies home in their arms. By eleven A. M. the place was deserted — every vestige of trash having been cleaned away. In the after- noon it is a fashionable promenade. After lunch we went to the National Museum with the Costers for an hour ; then we separated, they going for 43 T 6 71 Months on the Wing. a boat ride and we, taking the tram, went down to tlie station, and by rail up the Doldorf, where we obtained a splendid view of Zurich and Zurich Lake for miles in all directions. We ate our dinner out on the terrace that overlooks the city and wished we had brought the Costers along. She is cjuite anxious to eat out of doors, and this is an entrancing view. We promised to meet them at the Tonehalle at eight P. M>. to drink beer and listen to the music, which is al- ways fine there. We remained at the Tonehalle until ten o'clock and then came home and prepared to start for Lucerne. June 14th. — Hbtel Victoria. — We arrived here about eleven-forty, an hour and a half's run from Zurich; pass- ed through sixteen tunnels en route. The place seem.s fa- miliar to us; has not grown as much as Zurich. Switzer- land is ideally beautiful, but since seeing Norway, this scenery is less awe-inspiring. Although most of the moun- tains are much higher than in Norway, they do not appear so lofty on account of the lakes being broader. Today we went by boat to Kelirsiten, then by a fu- nicular railway that made one feel like saying his pray- ers, it is so steep and so high — eighteen hundred feet ! From here we v/ent by a path called the "Felsenweg," cut in the precipitous v/all of the mountain for several miles. There is a strong iron balustrade all the way; the height is so great that it gave J. vertigo to look down. Just op- posite the Rigi Kulm there is an elevator which carries passengers up to the top of the mountain, but it seemed like tempting Providence to go up in the fragile steel cage, and the view is no better — so we did not attempt it, but came back to the station and had some beer. You knovf that I never touch beer at home, but this is quite different from that which we get in Amierica. Tonight we went out to buy a lunchbox. It is a wierd sight to see the lights come out at the hotel on top of Mount Pilatus, 2,138' feet up in the sky. When it is Ten Months on the Wing. 43 misty, and one cannot see the mountain, but just the lights, it then has the appearance of being another planet. On top of another mountain they have a searchlight which looks like a meteor. Now "adios" to Switzerland. Next stop is Milano. June 15th. — Hotel Du Nord. — We came over from Lucerne this morning, reaching Milano at three-fifty P. M. Found it dry and dusty here, about as bad as at home, and quite warm after Switzerland. From Lucerne to Mi- lano the road through St. Gothard's Pass skirts Lake Zu- rich and Lake Zug and passes through sixty-odd tunnels, the longest being St. Gothard's, 3,786 feet in height and 16,400 yards in length. In ascending the mountain we made several loops, passing over the road below, and cross- ing and recrossing the river Pease at several points. Tlie church at Wasen, owing to the winding of the railway, seems to change its position constantly. After passing through the Leggestine loop and tunnel, 1,198 yards in length, we pass for the third time the wild ravine by the upper Meienreuss Bridge, and enter another tunnel ; on emerging from this, we look down on the village of Wasen (through which we have just passed), one hundred and eighteen feet below. After passing through several more tunnels the road descends and the valley expands, but the scenery continues Alpine until we reach the fertile valley of Faido, with its fine chestnut trees. The town is thor- oughly Italian in character; and soon we arrive at the beautiful lake and city of Lugano; further on we come to Como. Of the two, I think the former is the more beau- tiful. Milano is situated on a broad, level plain. From the top of the Cathedral it has the appearance of a sea of tile roofs in all imaginable shades of red. June 16th. — We went to the Duomo, or Cathedral; climbed four hundred and ninety-eight steps to the top, from whence we had a splendid view of the city, which has a population of 600,000. One must see the Cathedral 44 T en M onths n the IV ing . in order to comprehend its marvelous beauty; its three thousand statues and bas-reliefs. The best view is from about one hundred and ninety-eight steps upward. It re- minds me more of an enormous piece of rose point lace than anything else. However, I was slightly disappointed when the guide disillusioned us in regard to the ceiling. One would take oath that it was carved out of marble in a lace design. In reality it is only painted, and is now being restored; there vv^ere twenty- five artists who made designs for the new decorations. Out of these, four were allowed to place their efforts in as many arches. Of these four artistS;, one was German, one French, one Spanish, and one Italian. It has not yet been determined which design will be chosen. I like the Spanish and the Italiau best; the German is too heavy, and the French too highly colored. It is useless to dwell on the many points of in- terest in the Cathedral; the window called '''The Pearl," on account of its perfection, and the two immense win- dows at the liack of the altar are superb ; but the statue of St. Bartholome is gruesome in its reality. He is rep- resented as having been flayed alive, and carries his skin over his shoulder. The anatomy is perfect, and the mus- cles and nerves would do credit to a Darwin, they are so true to life. The skin and scalp seem to quiver with ani- mation ; but it makes one sick to look at it. Later we employed a carriage and guide to show us the city and places of interest. Went first to the Church of San Ambrozia, built in 387 A. D. on the site of a pa- gan temple. Here it was that St. Ambrozia baptised St. Augustine, and where he closed the doors on the Emperor Theodosius after the cruel massacre of Thessalonica and made him walk barefooted to his palace in atonement for breaking faith with the Christians. The ancient pillars are the same that supported the pagan temple, and bear the images of monkeys and other pagan deities, Avhiie those of the early Christians contain the dove, represent- ing the Holy Ghost, and the Cross. The ancient archi- tectural form has been preserved in the atrium, while the T e n M o n tlis. o n t h e Wing. 45 Christian addition follows the ancient Hebrew synagogue, with a separate gallery for the women. The High Altar, restored in 12G0, still retains the original decorations, and the stalls belong to the original church. This is one of the very earliest of Christian fanes built after the edict of Constantine, giving permis- sion to the Christians to build temples of worship. There are some mosaics of the fifth century back of the High Altar and the four columns of porphyry are from the pagan temple. There is a Eeliquary in the Crypt contain- ing the bones of St. Ambrozia and of two Emperors, The- odosia and the other I have forgotten. The Emperors are in marble tombs with their wives. From here we drove to the Cemetery Monumental (the finest Compisanti in Italy), containing many works of modern artists. June 17th. — Hotel Smith, Genoa. — We came over this morning from Milano, traveling through the rich val- ley of Lombardy for two hours. We saw orchards of trees entirely denuded of foliage, and puzzled our brains as to the reason for this, when it dawned on me that June is the height of the silkworm season and these were white mulberry trees, on which they feed. The season, as I re- member, lasts about six weeks. Sometimes the family moves out of doors and turns the house over to the worms. They are omniverous feeders, and consume an astounding amount of leaves each day. We are told that one can hear them masticating several feet away. Although the season does not last long, great care is necessary to se- cure a perfect yield of silk. As soon as the cocoon is formed, they are carried immediately to the kiln, where they are subjected to a given temperature, just hot enough to kill the worm Avithout spoiling the silk. If they are not rushed through before the worm has time to eat his way out, the skein is ruined, as the threads are too short for weaving. After about two hours Ave ran into the mountains. 46 T 6 71 Months on the W in g . where the scenery is very picturesque, passing through twenty-one tunnels and looking down on lovely villages. We arrived at Genoa at twelve-thirty. This hotel has been in the Smith family for three generations; it was formerly an old church, and what is now the dining room was then a chapel. The paintings on the ceilings date back six hundred years, as doe^ also the one on the wall in the hall. Just across the street is the oldest bank in the v.^orld, the place where Columbus used to send his money, and a remittance to his father. Most of the streets are quite narrow and dark, but the newer ones are broad and well paved for this country. Genoa has the largest mausoleum and most unique ceme- tery we have ever visited. The monuments are all marble statues of the deceased. Often there will be a family of children weeping over a dead parent, or vice versa. Thoy are copied from the living persons; the drapery has a satin finish that looks like real cloth — but to us the whole thing seems crude and impossible. They think it quite strange that the English will not have anything but plain stones. June 18th. — In the morning we went by tram around the city, via Circonvuallazione. In the afternoon to the Lanterna, or lighthouse; then to the house of Co- lombo. June 19th. — Left Genoa at nine-forty-five. The first two hours there were so many tunnels we were under ground three-fourths of the time. After passing Spezia, on the left is the Appi Apuane. Some time before reach- ing Pisa, the coimtry spreads out into a fine valley, where there are acres and acres of wheat just being harvested. Men and women are busy "gathering in the sheaves." There are numerous olive orchards, and many cork trees, with wheat growing among them. I had a good view of the Leaning Tower for at least five minutes, while pass- Ten Months on the Wing. 47 ing through Pisa. J. was in the smoker and missed see- ing it. Not far from here we came to Leghorn. From there the railroad diverges, the line leading to Eome fol- lowing the coast. Just beyond Bibbona Casole, an an- cient Etruscan town, is the Isle of Elba, with a ruined castle on the top of Mount Campiglia Marittima, made famous by being the place of Napoleon's exile. The valley continues fertile until we reach Civita Vecchia, a seaport town; it then becomes a dreary tract of country to within a few miles of Eome. Arrived at seven P. M. — Pension Cargill, via Col- lina. — We found that our old friend and guide. Miss Dick, is dead, and Miss Cargill has moved away, though the pension is still kept in her name. This is the best place we have found this side of Norway for genuine comforr. June 20th. — J. went to Cook's for our trunk and letters. He — J. — is not well today. June 21st. — J. is still ill, but went to get our pass- ports ; the Consul asked him if he had anything besides his good honest face to identify himself. J. showed hi]n his thirty- third degree patent, and that was sufficient. June 22nd. — J. is better. We went to the Coliseum. What a wonderful old place it is! How much pleasure one could derive by reveling in imaginations among its ruins, repeopling it, and witnessing the gladiatorial con- tests; listening to the applause of the multitude, watch- ing to see whether it was thumbs up or thumbs down ! If only one might be allowed to meditate in peace, and not be continuously annoyed by som_e one who wants a tip, or to sell cards or cameos, or to be your guide and "rattle his head off" explaining, when you would rather pay him double the price to keep quiet. It is different if one comes just to be able to say, "I've been there." But we came to enjoy these old historical relics, and all we desire is to be let alone. 48 Ten M o n t h s o n f h e W i n g . Later we went to Santa Maria di Angeli, where there are some paintings that were formerly in St. Peter's, but they were removed to this church and replaced by mo- saics. There is a peculiar sun-dial in the floor. iSome one discovered that the light which stole through a small aper- ture in the wall changed position at every hour of the day; hence they put a metal istrip in the floor, with the hours marked on it — this reaches across the church and forms a sun-dial. June 83ed. — Went to Cook's to make arrangements for going to Greece, Egypt and Palestine. And then to the American Embassy to see if our passport was properly viseed. J. met a man who used to live at Ft. Stanton, New Mfexico, tv/enty years ago. He is secretary to the Consul. This afternoon we went to St. Peter's. It all ap- peared familiar, as we visited it many times while in Eome six years ago. June 24th. — We spent the morning in San Giovanni in Laterano, the principal church of Eome, after Constan- tine. The principal facade is by Galilio. Under the Gothic canopy, in the center of the transept, are many sa- cred relics — among them the head of St. Peter and that of St. Paul, and a table said to have been used as an al- tar by St. Peter. In the ancient apse are some fine mo- saics. On the side of the High Altar are four columns of bronze from the ancient basilica; in the transept on the left are four columns of porphyry and an ancient basin of the same material, from the Pantheon. Afteenoon. — We visited the Pincio. A lift off the Piazza Espagna takes one to the top of the hill, from whence there is an excellent view of the city. St. Peter's, the Castle of San Angelo, a statue of Garibaldi on the Capitoline, the Pantheon, a monument to Victor Eman- uel, and numerous other objects of interest can be seen. In ancient times, the Pincio was the Hill of Gardens; it Ten 21 o n t h s. o n t h e W i n g . 49 is now a fine park, ornamented with the busts of noted Italians and an old obelisk from Egypt. June 3oth. — Completed our arrangements with Cook's for the continuation of our journey. We then went to the Forum Eomanum, and wandered among the ruins of "days that are no more.'' There has been a great deal of excavating done since we were here. Many things are entirely new to us. If one is not entirely devoid of sensations, he will certainly have them here, thinking of those ancient statesmen and heroes and the wonderful civ- ilization that existed in the remote past. The thoughts we are thinking, they also did think; the deeds we are doing, they also did; the love, the hatred, the ambitions we have, they also had ; thus will the future ages gaze on the civilization of our day, and cogitate over it, as we do over that of the past. I wonder if they know Caesar ! Antony, Brutus, Cato, Pompey, and the hungry-looking Cassius ! A¥e shall come back again ; I wish to stand once more on the spot where Brutus played the part of Judas, and where Antony "came to bury Caesar, not to praise him." June 26th. — We went to the Vatican Museum, but had only time to get a general view of things. However, it has been changed but little since we were here last. One could go there for days, and still not see it all. When one has seen the numerous galleries that we have visited, be- sides the two great Expositions of Chicago and St. Louis, one may be pardoned if his interest wanes and he prefers to spend his time in God's out-of-doors, or among the ancient ruins. June 27th. — Spent the morning in the Sistine Cha- pel and Raphael's Loggia — went through the gallery of sculpture again. After lunch we went to the Pantheon. June 28th. — We went to Santa Maria Maggiore, 50 Ten Months on the Wing. which, according to legend, the Virgin commanded the Roman patrician (Johannes) to huild on the site where he should find snovf on the following morning (August oth.) It contains a richly gilded ceiling, said to be made from the first gold brought from America; some fine fres- coes- in one of the chapels by Gruido Eeni, In the center of the church is the High Altar, with a canopy supporteii by four columns of porphyrj^, richly ornamented with gold; beneath, is a kneeling figure of Pius IX. Under the chancel arch is a plank said to be from the sepulcher of Christ and some ancient mosaics from the old church; in one chapel are some fine marbles and lapis lazuli col- umns. The architrave of the main -chapel is supported by forty Ionic columns. From there v.^e went to the Museum National di Therme, containing a collection of antiques discovered on public property within tlie city limits. Some of the best things are an Apollo by Phidias, a head of Athena, a bronze figure of a pugilist, a bronze statue of Dionysus, a marble statue of a kneeling youth, Hermaphrodite, Gaul and his wife, head of a sleeping youth, Jans Ludovici; then we went through the Cabinet of Vestal Virgins. There are four wings surrounding a large court all full of relics, while the garden, or court, contains many more. The oxen heads are good, also the goat and horse, but the ele- phants are poor. There are some splendid frescoes and stuccos from the Farnesina home. June 29th, Sunday. — We attended High Mass at St. Peter's. This being St. Peter's Day, there was a vast crowd at the Cathedral and mass was celebrated by sev- eral Cardinals; the music was inspiring. In the afternoon we went to the Borghese Gardens and spent the time in the shade of the trees. June 30th. — Went with Professor Nispi Lanzi to the Palatine; we missed our old Scotch woman who told us so much Eoman history when she took us over this Ten M ontlis. on the Wing. 51 same ground. The Palatine was the nucleus of the ''Mis- tress of the World;" also the site of the house of Eomu- lus. He built the first wall around Eome, laying out the circumference of his city by plowing a furrow around it with a bronze plow and a yoke of oxen — hence the wor- ship of the bull as one of the Eoman gods; as is also the she-wolf. In recent years the excavations have brought to light many remains of these prehistoric ruins, and some of the wall built by Eomulus, During the Eepublic many private dv^^ellinga occupied the Palatine; Hortentius, Cicero and Claudius had homes here; Augustus was born here. After the battle of Actium he transferred his resi- dence to the Palatine, occup3dng a large portion of the hill with his palace, a temple to Apollo and a rich library, the walls of which still stand. Tiberius built a palace here; also Caligula; the lat- ter also built a bridge over the valley. This valley in- cluded the Circus Maximus and the Stadium, extending to the Capatoline Hill. An Emperor of the Flavial dynasty transferred the imperial residence to the Palatine, and Septimus Severu-^ extended the imperial palace beyond the limits of the hill. It was inhabited by Odoacer and Theodoric, but after the tenth century was occupied mostly by monaster- ies and fortified towers. In the palace of Tiberius is a beautiful tile floor, well preserved; in the dining room one can trace the circum- ference of the wall; also in the Auditorium Hall and Throne Eoom. In some places are the remains of lovely friezes on marble walls. The house of Livia is quite well preserved; some of the frescoes are handsome, especially the festoons of fruit in the triclinium. It is said they bear favorable compari- son with any of the kind in existence. Livia was the mother of Tiberius Claudius (Nero.) She retired to this house after the death of Augustus, to marry whom she had divorced her first husband. On the top of the lofty square, now covered with live 52 Ten Months on the Wing. oaks, was the temple of Magna Mater, or Cybele, founded 191 B. C. To the right of the House of Livia is a cov- ered passage connecting the palace of Caligula with the palace of Tiberius. In this passage Caligula and his wicked wife were assassinated. The accessible remains of the palace of Domus Au- gustenia are mostly the State apartments. The Aula Ee- gia, or Throne Eoom, was thirty-nine by forty-nine yards in extent — ten yards wider than the nave of St. Peter's. The semicircular apse which surrounded the throne may be easily traced, and from indications must have been magnificent. On the south side was a grand peristilium. The marble of the walls was polished until it shone like mirrors. Here Caligula walked, and by the aid of these polished walls could see who approached him, for he knew there were conspirators who sought his life; and here, on account of his wickedness, he v>'as assassinated, despite his precaution. To the north of the palace is the Temple of Jupiter Victor, erected in consequence of a vow made by Tiberius Maximus after the victory of Sentenium, 295 B. C, Beyond the Villa Mills (built by a Scotchman in the sixteenth century, but now abandoned) we come to the so- called Stadium, an oblong space one hundred and seventy- five yards in length, originally enclosed by a lofty wall. Here are the remains of many fine statues and marble columns. From here Vv^e pass to the palace of Septimus Seve- rus. This contains heating apparatus for baths. As we ascend to the Palatine from the street, we pass the Cave of Lupercalus. At the foot of the hill, on the banks of the Tiber, is where legend tells us the twins, Eomulus and Eemus, were found in the basket and car- ried by the wolf to the cave where she nurtured them. Near by was the hut of the shepherd who restored them to their grandfather. July 1st. — In the morning we went to the Temple Ten M ontli s on the W i n g . 53 of the Vestal Virgins, down near the Tiber; then to the old bridge that Horatius defended. There is just one span remaining, but one can judge by that how excellent it was. We visited the Jewish Synagogue; it has a fine modern interior. After lunch we went to "St. Paul's-outside-the-wall.'' Although we had been here before, we spent a pleasant afternoon reviewing its magnificence; its vast proportions, its costly material, its rich ceiling, its eighty columns of Simplon granite, each fifteen feet in circumference; these make an imposing effect. Over the nave are mosaics of the fifth century — Christ with the Elders of the Eevela- tions. At each side of the entrance to the transept are colossal statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. In the tribune are mosaics of the thirteenth century, representing Christ and the Apostles. Above the columns of the aisle and inner nave are mosaics of all the popes up to the present time. The columns of yellow alabaster, also those sup- porting the High Altar, were presented by Mohammed Ali, A^iceroy of Egypt. The malachite pedestal was pre- sented by Nicholas of Eussia. The church is one hundred and thirty yards in length and sixty-five 3='ards in v/idth. July 2nd. — Went to Santa Croce en Jerusalem and to the Museum of San Giovanni in Laterano. From the time of Constantine down to the time of the removal to Avignon, it was the residence of the popes. Restored in 1556, by Dominico Fontana, it was in 1843 set apart for a museum. On the ground floor is a collection of ancient sculpture, including many admirable works : Eoman re- liefs, torsos, a fine mosaic of a pugilist from the Baths of Caracalla, colossal figures of Tiberius and Claudius, a dancing satyr (very excellent), and the splendid statue of Sophocles, said to be the most beautiful of ancient statues. There was a fine sarcophagus whose carvings rep- resent the story of Orestes and one illustrating the story of the Children of Niobe. From here we went to the Scala Santa. I bought 54 Ten Months on the Wing. some rosaries for the girls. Spent the afternoon in the Borghese Gardens. July 3rd. — We made an excursion to Tivoli with Professor Nispi Lanzi (at nine-thirty A. Ivl.) It is about one and a quarter hours' ride from Eome, upon the Sa- bine Mountains. Tivoli was called Tibur by the ancients ; its founding dates back to prehistoric times. It l^'caine subject to Rome 380 B, C. It was the favorite residence of many Eoman nobles. Cicero, Nero, Maecenas and the Emperor Augustus established beautiful villas here. It is charmingly situated on the river Anio (or Teverone of the ancients.) The stream bursts impetuously f''oni the mountain side, forming several lovely falls three hundred feet high. There are many interesting ruins ; a Temple of the Sibyl and one of the Vestal Virgins. In the deep gorge are numerous fantastic grottos, beautiful ferns and dark cypress trees, that lend themselves to the artistic surroundings, forming a complete picture. It reminds one of Eondo, Spain; however, this gorge is not nearly so deep as Eondo. The charming A-^illa de Estes is situated on the heights, where pretty stairways, silver waterfalls, cascades and fountains lead down to the enchanting garden. Here we find cool, shady paths that lead one on in delightful indo- lence, by lily ponds, under somber pines and tall, stately cjrpress, amid ferns and flowers where the noise of the outside world is hushed, and the ear is soothed by the en- ticing notes of birds and the tinkling splash of waters. How happily one might dream away the hours; "Where the storms that we meet in the wide world would cease. And our hearts like the waters be mingled in peace." We lunched at the Hotel Eden di Serine e Eegina ISTotwithstanding its fantastic name, we were well served and well fed. It is located on the brow of the precipice overlooking the panoramic gorge. Ten M o nth s on the Wing. 55 After lunch we drove down the mountain to Hadrian's Villa. Excepting the Coliseum^ it is the most stupen- dous and interesting of all the ruins. This villa was be- gun in 125 A. D. and completed in 135 A. D. It is diffi- cult to comprehend how they could obtain all this mag- nificence and art in the short space of ten years. It occu- pies one hundred and sixty acres of ground; is a marvel of architecture^ designed by Hadrian's own fertile brain, after seven j^ears of travel over the universe, as then known. He left monuments to his fame at every point that he visited, but brought home a mind stored with beautiful ideas of art and architecture, whi-ch he proceed- ed to exem_plify by erecting representations of the most beautiful and wonderful buildings then extant. He as- signed to them the names of the structures from which they were copied, such as the Lyceum, the Academy, the Prytaneum, Canopus, Stoa Poecile, and Temple; a Greek theatre, a Eoman theatre. Hall of Philosophers, Bibelotec, JSTatalarian, the large square called the Giardino or Court, a Doric Peristile, a Basilica, or Court of Justice; the Nymphinium, or Tem.ple of Nymphs; Fish Ponds, Gar- dens, House of Pretorian Guards, a commodious Triclin- ium or Dining hall, commanding a fine view of Tivoli. The "Celaus Corinthianus" was a large square with Corinthian columns and a large semicircular recess. The Basilica had thirty-six marble pillars. The Piazza di Oro, a beautiful court, was surrounded by sixty-eight columns ; a subterranean corridor, called the Cryptoporticus, was a place to promenade v/hen the weather was inclement, or too warm outside. A Therme Grandi, or Great Bath, was decorated with tasteful ornamentation. It is toLl of Ha- drian that one day he noticed an old veteran scraping his back against the wall in the bath; he called to him and asked him if he were not an old soldier of the legion. The man replied that he was. Hadrian inquired why he was scratching himself on the wall, and being informed that it was because he was too poor to buy a "scratcher," he presented him v/ith a gold one, and appointed two of 56 T e 11 M onths on the Wing. his own servants to scratch his hack every day. Several others overhearing the conversation were next :1ay seen to he scratching on the wall. Hadrian inquired hov.^ it was with them; they said, "Master, we, too, are old sol- diers and too poor to buy scratchers." He gave each a copper scratcher and commanded them to scratch one an- other's backs. The Valley of Canopus, artificially cut in the tufa rock, was devoted to festivals given in the Egyptian man- ner. The Poecile was copied after one he had seen in Athens; it consisted of a double portico embellished with decorative frieze and large marble columns on each sido of a high wall, roofed in. Here the philosophers walked and delivered orations, or lectured. The extensive gar- dens were planted to beautiful trees and contained num- erous fountains. Caracalla was the first to begin the de- molition of this marble domain, carrying off many statues to embellish his own baths ; Constantino continued in his steps; then the popes and nobles of mediaeval ages used it as a quarry from which to secure material for thejr churches and palaces. July 4th. — J. completed arrangements M'ith Cook's for our transportation. At dinner, Senor di Gasperes decorated the table v/ith American and Italian flags and treated us to champagne. There are a number of us Americans here at the pension. July 5th. — We went to see a picture drama from one of Tolstoi's tales: it was indeed tragic. July 6th. — I attended the Vatican reception held in one of the courts; only women were admitted. There Avas a stifling crowd, the court being crowded for standing room by women of all classes. We went early, and stood an hour and a half waiting for His Holiness to appear. He was half an hour late. When he finally came out on the balcony above the crowd, there was a prolonged jiieer T en M o ntlis on the W i n g . 67 of welcome, lasting fully fifteen minutes. His counten- ance is most benevolent and he appeared to appreciate the adoration (for it amounts to that) of his audience. He blessed them in the name of the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost, after which the band played, and the audi- ence sang a song of praise and devotion to him as their earthly father. The Pope then waved his sacred hat over the crowd and retired. We were an hour getting out. Mrs. Dougherty and Miss Caldwell went with me; thoy are from the Philippines. We carried rosaries in our hands; everything we had is supposed to be made sacred by the Pope's blessing. July 7th. — We visited Hadrian's Tomb, or Castle San Angelo; a stupendous j)i]e of ruins, full of gloomy passageways and crypts or ancient tombs; originally dec- orated (both interior and exterior) with marble and mo- saics; samples of the latter still remain in places and are very handsome, as were also the decorative tiles and mural frescoes. In the Torture Chamber is where Beatrice Cenci suffered the agonies of the damned for a crime of which she was innocent, or if committed, was justifiable in the uttermost degree. There are so many ways that wind and wind that one might easily lose one's self. Many Popes have found security in its walls during troublous times, escaping from the A^atican by a secret passage. July 8th. — Left Eome at seven-thirty A. M. After a hot, dusty and altogether disagreeable day, we arrived at Brindisi at nine-twenty-seven P. M. The scenery, like all of Italy, is picturesquely charming; mountains, valleys and rich tablelands planted to olives, figs, grapes, wheat, hemp, and something we took to be flax. Grand Hotel International is full of mosquitoes and fleas. We are almost eaten up ! Brindisi is a hot, dusty place. We wonder why it is so much warmer than Eome, when it is situated on the blue Adriatic. There are quite 58 Ten Months on the Wing. a number of ships at anchor in the harbor, one an Eng- lish warship. July 9th. — Spent the day quietly. There are sev- eral Americans here, just returning from Palestine; part of a Sunday School Convention. Sailed from Brindisi at eleven P. M. on the steam- ship Baron Beck, of the Austrian Lloyd Line. July 10th. — A fine day; we came down the Adri- atic into the Ionian Sea, passing numerous islands en voj'^age; stopped two hours at Santo Quatro. A number of Turks and Armenians came on board, fleeing from the country on account of the new war among the Bulgar- ians, Servians and Greeks. "We are told that there is cholera in the town, and that we must be careful about the water we drink while in Greece. At Corfu, where we stopped four hours, there was great excitement and wrangling among the Greek boat- men who came to take ashore those who wished to make a flying visit; many availed themselves of the opportunity. Corfu is the largest of the Ionian Islands. It is dominated by the bare and rocky Monte San Salvatore. On the summit is an old English fortress, Fortezza Vec- chia, one of the two forts built when it was under the pro- tection of England (1863.) On the accession of King George, England ceded it to Greece. The island has a population of 91,000. The ancients identified it with the Phoenician island of Scahria, mentioned in the Odyssey. The inhabitants owe their superior education to their in- tercourse with the outer world, being in the direct path of all steamers passing between the Orient and the Occi- dent. The island was discovered 171 B. C. On the par- titioning of the Byzantine Em.pire by the Crusaders (120;j A. D.), Corfu fell to the share of the Venetians. Later, the Turks exhausted their strength in two sieges of Corfu. Erom 1797-99 and in 1807 it was occupied by the Erench. Ten Months on the Wing. 5!) During the interval between these periods it was. with other Ionian islands, a Eepublic nnder Turk'sli super- vision; then under Eussian sway. But from 1815 to J 86^ it was under the protection of Great Britain. Gladstone, as High Commissioner, resided here a short time. July 11th. — A¥e reached Patras at four A. M. It is the largest town in Peloponnesus, and the largest save two in Greece. In ancient times it bore the name of A roe, or "arable land/' and was famous for its numerous flocks. Its first King, Eumelos, and Tripolemos of Eleusis were favorites of Demeter. In conjunction, they founded Atheia, "the blooming," Mesatis, "the middle land." If:s original inhabitants v/ere lonians; they were expelled from the coast by the Achaean invaders, from whom the town received its present name. Like Corinth, it was one cf the earliest seats of Christianity. The story that the Apos- tle Andrew was crucified here is rejected by many. At one time Patras was in the hands of the Venetians and the popes, from whom it passed to the Byzantine Emi^ire, and so to Turkey, which held sway until the nineteenth century. It is famous for its currant industry. From Patras to Athens the country for the first four hours' ride has a desolate appearance and is mostly plant- ed to olives and grapes. We stopped thirty minutes for lunch at Corinth. (More about this place later.) Arrived at Athens at three-thirty P. M. The gen- eral view of the city is disappointing; we arrived in a cloud of white dust and found extreme heat, and feel that we shall truly "fry in Greece" if this continues. However, the city improves on further acquaintance, and in spite of dust and heat, one's interest grows. Our Hotel d'Engleterre is situated on the Place de Constitu- tion, opposite the Eoyal Palace. The Plaza is the centre of social gatherings; hundreds of tables occupy all tlie available space, and the beauty and wit of Athene :ire gathered here drinking their coffee and will until eleven P. M. Occasionally the band plays, but just at present 60 T e 11 M n ih s on the W i n g . there is too much war excitement; people do not talk or think of anything else. Today we hear the Greeks have been victorious over the Bulgarians, but lost many men. July 12th. — War excitement ran high this morning when a telegram told of the atrocities of the Bulgarians; the report stated that on evacuating a town of 40,000, they burned it to the ground and killed two hundred non- combatants, among them fifteen young girls, and two Metropolitans. They threw about 30,000 people on the country without homes or food. The King wished all the people throughout the world to hear of the barbarous savagery of a people claiming to be Christians. It is aw- ful, if true. This morning we employed Senor Constantine Kan- gas, a courier of wide repute, to conduct us to the Acropo- lis. It dominates the landscape and is the first object, on reaching Athens, to greet the eye. A magnificent spec- tacle, situated on the summit of a precipitous rock five hundred and ten feet high. The semi-mythical Pelasgi are said to have flattened the rock and established their houses and temples on its summit. Up until this time they had lived as nomads in tents and out of doors. For ■protection against their enemies and wild beasts, they increased the steepness of the slopes and built a strong wall around their city. Many remains are still extant, dating from 2000 B. C. As these people progressed in knowledge and intelligence, they enlarged and beautified the place. The Acropolis was the earliest seat of the Athenian Kings, who held their courts of justice on Mars Hill and v/hose sanctuaries occupied the other locations here. Later, the courts were all removed to the lower towns and the Acropolis devoted entirely to the gods. Peisistratos built new walls and otherwise embellished the place. However, it was during the time of Pericles and Phidias that Athens attained its greatest perfection. This period was called the Golden Age. T 6 71 M n tlis. on t h e W i n g . Gl The Beule Gate^ named after the Frenchman who discovered it, was the principal entrance to the Propylea (vestibule) and considered one of the most important works of ancient Athens. It was begun 437 B. C. on the foundation of an earlier gateway. The architect was Mnesikles. This magnificent building was a brilliant jewel on the front of the Acropolis, and rivaled the Par- thenon in the admiration of the ancients. "Even now we recognize in its noble design the bloom of eternal youth.'' The imposing structure consists of three parts: a gateway proper, with wings on the south side pierced by five openings; each colonnade has six Doric columns, sur- mounted by a frieze with tiiglyphs and metopes, crowned with a pediment. Most of the carving is missing. From here the ascent to the portico was by two grand stairway.^ of Pentelic marble. On either side was the Sacred Waj^, which, owing to the steepness of the ascent, was construct- ed in curves, so that the chariots and animals for sacri- fice could be driven up. The Portico entrance has six anterior Doric columns, twenty-nine feet in height and five feet three inches in diameter. Behind each of these, flanking the main pas- sage, stand three Ionic columns thirty-three feet in height with base and capitals. The Propylaea had two wings; that on the north was used as a picture gallery; the south wing, much small- er, opened on the Temple of Nike, or Goddess of Victory. Here stood the statue of Athena, daughter of Jupiter, for whom the city was named Athens. At times she was call- ed Superior Goddess, and also Goddess of Wisdom. This statue was called the Wingless Victor}^ intended to con- vey the idea that she would never fly away from Athens. Acropolis means the "City on the Hill," which was her peculiar property. Passing through the inner walls of the Propylaea, we ascend a gradual slope, now covered with ruins, but still producing a profound impression on one. Pausanias described it thus : "Every level place contained statues, 62 Ten Months on the Wing. every steep place a marble stair, all presenting the ap- pearance of one single creation of white Pentelic marble." The Parthenon (meaning built for Athena) is the most perfect monument of ancient art; occupying the cul- minating point of the Acropolis, and excelling all other buildings of ancient Athens in its artistic embellishments. It was constructed over the ruins of a former temple, whose foundation may still be recognized. After the victory of Marathon it was decided to construct this temple to Athena, who had led them to victory. Pericles directed the operations and furnished the necessary funds. The architects were Ictinos and Kallikrates. Phidias was the righthand counselor of Pericles, The temple was begun 447 B. C. and opened for worship 438 B. C. In the cen- ter was the magnificent statue of the goddess in ivory, sixty-two and one-half feet in height, by Phidias. The temple was supported by sixty-two large columns and thirty-six small ones; about fifty statues occupy the pedi- ment, and a frieze five hundred and twenty-four feet in length has ninety-two metopes. The platform was two hundred and twent5''-eight feet long, eight hundred feet broad; on this rose forty-six Doric columns, forming tlie outer framework, eight columns at each end and seven- teen on each side ; the average height Vi^as thirty-four feet. They all lean a little toward the interior. Above each column is a triglyph, or fluted tablet with grooves; along the top of the cornice runs a Doric moulding. The gable roof rose at an angle of thirteen and one-half feet. The top and bottom members of the pediment projected in a cornice and terminated in heart-shaped leaves. The front pediment represents the birth of Athena, Mythology says that Jupiter ordered Vulcan to strike him on the head with his hammer; he struck the blow, when forth sprang Athena, his daughter. The pediments on the west front represent Athena's strife with Poseidon for the posses- sion of Athens, But time and space forbid a further description of this ne plus ultra of all art. It stirs one's blood to see Ten M 71 til s on the Wing. 63 it all, and to think of those v/hose brains and hands wrought so cunningly and so well in the dim days of long ago, that we of today may still enjoy the fruits of their labors. Near the Acropolis, in a slight depression, lies the Erechteon, which contained the shrines of Athena PalaJiis, or Athena, guardian of the city. It occupies the spot where Athena victoriously strove with Poseidon. The olive tree, which the goddess called forth, and the impression made by the trident of Poseidon in pro- ducing a salt-water spring were both shown us in the an- cient fane. When the temple was burned by the Persians in 480 B. C. the olive tree was destroyed, but within two days of the catastrophe it had put forth a new shoot an "ell in length." The temple was rebuilt after the peace of Nikias, during the brief breathing space in the Peloponnesian wars, but work had to be suspended during the troublous times between 413-414. It was completed about 407. The temple was surrounded by a sacred precinct orna- mented with numerous statues. It has undergone many vicissitudes; served as a Turkish harem and as a Chris- tian church. The main portion is sixty-two and one-half feet long by thirty-seven feet broad, covered with a gable roof. The vestibules on the north and south exhibit a pleasing variety of st5des in architecture, each one being a gem. of great beauty. The Portico of Caryatides was restored in 1845, from fragments found in the excava- tions. It is considered the most charming creation of Attic art. The east portico is a prostyle of the simplest construction, with six Ionic columns twenty-two feet high, including capitals. There were two chambers on differ- ent levels; the upper, entering from tlie east portico, was the sanctuary of Athena Polias. The beautiful and well- preserved doorway leading from the west portico has been frequenth'^ imitated in modern buildings. The Belvedere, at the northeast wall of the Acropolis, commands a splendid view of the city and mountains; to 64 T e n M onths on the W i n g . the east is Mt. Hymettus, or Honey Mountain; a little nearer is the Arch of Hadrian; immediately in front .is the monument of Lysikrates; beyond^ the Palace and Palace garden; further off^ the Lykabettus and Penteli- con; to the north the Tower of the Wind, to the west the Thesion, backed by the olive heights of Kephios, where the present King has a summer home; above this, rises Mt. Parnes. The Tower of the Wind was built for a weather vane, and is decorated with flying figures repre- senting wind. On every side we are greeted with reminders of Ha- drian. Judging from all the lovely and useful structures that he caused to be erected, he must have been another Andrew Carnegie. That he was a man of much culture and refinement is very evident. We drove to the Stadium, recently constructed on the site of the old one. It conforms in every particular to the ancient structure. It has a seating capacity of 80,- 000. The original was built after the victory of Mara- thon, and it was from the battlefield to this point that the races were run. The temporary gateway is soon to be replaced by one made in exact imitation of the original one. From here we drove by the Monument of Lysikrates and on to the Olympian, or Temple of Olympian Zeus, now rejDresented by fifteen remaining columns of enor- mous size, made of Pentelic marble in Doric style. The ground formerly sloped down to the Illisos, where the water courses of the upper town found an outlet. Legend, therefore, fixes this as the spot where the last waters of the Deluge disappeared. This temple dates from the time of Hadrian, who had it built on the ruins of an ancient temple founded by Peisistrates, 530 B. C. The expulsion of Peisistrates and the Persian wars hindered the com- pletion of the building. It was left untouched until 175 B. C, when Antiochus IV, King of Syria, took up the unfinished work of Peisistrates. Antiochus died before it was completed, and Sulla, who occupied Athens B. C. T e n M o ntlis on the W ing . 65 86, carried off some of the smaller columns. It was re- served for Hadrian to complete the magnificent structure 130 A. D. The temple stood on a base approached by three steps, possessed one hundred and four Corinthian columns, arranged in double rows of twenty each on the north and south sides and triple rows of eight columns on the ends. With the exception of two others, it is the largest Greek temple known; three hundred fifty-three and one-half feet long and one hundred thirty-four and one-half feet wide. It contained a Cryselphantine statue of Zeus and a statue of Hadrian. The columns are fift}^- six and one-half feet high and nine and one-half feet in diameter. The Sacred Precinct (six hundred seventy-five feet in length and four hundred twenty-three feet in width) contained a forest of statues of that Emperor (Hadrian), who was worshiped as the founder of Pan- hellenic feasts connected with the temple. We drove to the Theatre of Dionysus, the earliest theatre extant. This was once the center of dramatic art in Greece, in which masterpieces of Aeschuylus, Sopho- cles, Euripides and Aristophanes first excited the delight and admiration of the people. It lay within the temple of the ''Wine-loving God," Bacchus, immortally associated with mimic performances. Here were enacted comedies and tragedies. Among the most distinguished tragedies was "The Battle of Salamis." The theatre seated 17,000 spectators. A long colonnade led to the Odeion of Herodes Atticus, the loftiest and most conspicuous among the ruins of the Acropolis. Tiberius Claudius Herodus Atticus, member of an eminent Eom^an family, inherited great wealth, which he spent in conferring the most magnificent benefits on the town and citizens of Athens. He built the Odeion in memory of his wife, Appia Annia Eegilla, 160 A. D. The facade was constructed in the round Eoman round-arched style and consisted of three stories. Unlike other theatres of ancient times, it was roofed over. The rear of the stage was adorned with statues and the balustrade on 66 Ten Months on the Wing. either side supported a lion. It had a seating capacity of 5,000 and was mostly used for musical contests, al- though plays were also given here. Near the theatre, half-way up the terrace, is situated the Asklepieion, or Sacred Precinct of Asklepios, togetlier with other deities. To the west of the Acropolis, half- way up the slope, stood a rocky plateau, which both in mod- ern and ancient times has borne the name of the Areopa- gus; a flight of fifteen steps led to the altars, for which platforms were hewn in the rock. The ancient court consisted of venerable citizens of Athens, exercising supreme jurisdiction in ail cases of life and death. It held its sittings on this hill. (This hill was also called Mars' Mill.) It is usually assumed that it was from the Areopagus that St. Paul, in 54 A. D., delivered the speech of which we have an account in chapter xvii of the Acts of the Apostles. Passing to the southeast, we come to the Hill of Pynx, one of the earliest structures of ancient Athens. An artificial terrace three hundred ninety-four feet long and two hundred forty-three feet wide, the lower side supported by a massive wall, is supposed to be the place where the Athenians held public assemblies. It was here that Pericles harangued the the people for four hours when they had bitterly censured him for spending all the city's money on the Acropolis. A little to the west and down the hill stands the Thesion, a temple built to Hercules and Thesus, sons of Jupiter — the best preserved of all the ruins; one hun- dred and three and one-half feet in length and forty-five feet in breadth. At the sides, east to west, are thirteen, and on the ends, six Doric columns, richly decorated and in a splendid state of preservation. Some have been slightly displaced by an earthquake. They are nineteen feet high and three feet four inches in diameter. The beautiful frieze on the east front represents the Labors of Hercules and the battle with the Centaur and the Lion. The west front represents the celebrated achievements of Ten Months on the Wing. 07 Thesus. All tlie beautiful stairway has been demolished. On the right;, the design of the east frieze of the cell a represents the battle between the Athenians and the Pe- lasgianSj and on the left the youthful hero, repulsing this enemy, just in the act of hurling large stones. To the southwest, under the hill, we saw the cave in which Soc- rates was held prisoner and where he was forced to drink the hemlock. On our return we visited the Greek Cathedral. July 13th. — We hear that there is to be a pubUc indignation meeting on the Place de Constitution at six P. M. over the news of the Bulgarian massacre. Later, there was a great concourse of people to hear the Mayor and one or two others made patriotic speeches. July 14th. — We hear that the Turks are mobilizing their troops preparatory to retaking Adrianople. We have not had occasion to realize that there is anything out of the common going on until today. We have seen bat- talion after battalion of soldiers going by, and learn that 12,000 will embark at Piraeus today, mostly conscripts. They formed an awkward squad, but may do as much fighting as the more experienced. Reports of new atroci- ties committed by the Bulgarians arrive each day. It has caused a revulsion of feeling toward them. The Greeks in Adrianople say they prefer Turkish rule to that of the Bulgars. Went to the National Museum this morning. It contains a valuable collection of antique art, chief among the smaller articles being Dr. Schliemann's collection from the tomb of Agamemnon, at Mycenae. The archaic sculpture is of great interest, as it represents the progress in development of art. There are several well-executed statues. Later we went to the Acropolis Museum., which con- tains the things found on the Acropolis: Some fine statues of goddesses of the archaic age, also a youth with 68 Ten Months on the Wing. a bull calf on his shoulders, carrying it to the sacrifice. There are some finely executed replicas of marbles that Lord Elgin carried to England and one of the architrave of the Parthenon, by a German artist. July 15th. — We left the hotel with Constantine Kangas at seven A. M. Went by train to the Albanian village of Charvati, where we ate our lunch at the Kest House. Then drove to Mycenae, situated between the two mountains of Hagios Elias and Szara. Mycenae is said to have raised the massive walls with the help of the Cy- clopeans. This is one of the most astounding things about these ruins. How did they raise these tremendous stones to such heights? We first came to the tomb of Agamemnon, King of Mycenae and brother of Menelaus, King of Troy. It is built of hewn rock, in beehive form. The entrance is twenty feet wide and one hundred and fifteen feet lonM. The door is seventeen and one-half feet high and eight and one-half feet wide at the bottom, surmounted by a lintel of two blocks of stone, the inner one about thirty feet long, sixteen feet wide and three feet thick. The tomb is fifty feet high and the same in diameter. The side walls are formed of thirty-three horizontal circular courses, gradually becoming narrower as they ascend. From the three courses upward are holes bored in the stones at regular intervals, in which are fastened metal rosettes. It was in this tomb that Dr. Schliemann found the wonderful collection now in the National Museum. It consists of weapons, golden ornaments by the thousand, vessels of gold (one in particular I must mention — a gol- den drinking cup handsomely chased, with three fighting bulls) ; vessels of silver and of clay, choice amphora, cases of glass tear bottles, vases, ancient scarabs and jewelry. A doorway ten feet high leads into the chamber proper, which was lined with alabaster. Quite near by is the tomb of Agamemnon's wife. From here we walked up the hill to the Gate of the Ten Months on the Wing. 69 Lions. The lions occupy a position above the entrance, are standing on their hind feet with their paws propped against the marble column; their heads were of bronze (now destroyed.) From the gate a broad street leads to the main part of the city. Beneath this space, Dr. Schliemann discovered the Eoyal Tomb, containing the bones of seventeen people and a great number of golden ornaments. Homer visited this tomb in 808 B. C. ; even then it was nothing but ruins. The city was adorned with mar- bles and fountains and was quite a beautiful place. His- tory, philosophy and mythology are so interwoven in Greece that it is difficult to tell where one leaves off and the other begins, and one is always interested in mytho- logical lore. Perseus is the legendary founder of Mycenae. His great-grandson Avas Sthenelos, whose son, Eurystheus, obtained the lordship instead of Hercules. The princes of the house of Pelops, who afterwards ruled here, trace their descent from the famous Phr3^gian king, Tantalos ; they inherited the domain from Eurystheus. Mycenae was the scene of the terrible legend of Atreus and Thyes- tes, the sons of Pelops, and Agamemnon. The son of Atreus had his seat here (described by Homer) 1500 B. C. Mythology says that the three goddesses, Juno, Minerva and Venus, gave a banquet to which they invited all the goddesses except the goddess of discord, Eris. This so enraged her that she thought to stir up trouble and jealousy by throwing a golden apple on the table, saying it was for the most beautiful of the three. As they could not determine among themselves who was the most beau- tiful, they decided to call in Paris, son of Priam and Hecuba, who was the most beautiful man in the kingdom. His mother was warned in a dream that her son would be the cause of the downfall of the kingdom, and in con- sequence she had him brought up as a shepherd in the mountains. But his beauty made him famous in spite of this precaution. Now, each of the goddesses went secret- ly to him and made offers of wealth, position, knowledge 70 Ten Months on the Wing. and power, excepting Venus, who promised him the most "beautiful woman in the world for his wife. This was Helen of Troy, wife of Menelaus, who was brother to Agamemnon, King of Mycenae. This king had two daughters and one son, Orestes. Paris stole Helen and brought on the Trojan war, which lasted ten years. While Agamemnon was at the war, his wife, Clytemnestra, and Aegisthus (her lover) together ruled the kingdom. She thought her husband would never return, and to prevent further interference with her plans, sent her son, Ore.s- tes, out in the mountains to grow up as a shepherd and made servants of her daughters. After the fall of Troy, when Agamemnon was returning home (bringing Cas- sandra with him), an old soldier and beggar informed Clytemnestra that her husband was landing in the har- bor. She and her paramour planned to meet and kill him — their design being carried out. Time ran on until Orestes became a man, learned the story of his father's death, returned to Mycenae and asked to see the Queen and Aegisthus. His wish being granted, he killed them both. Part of this is real history, as there is no doubt that Agamemnon once occupied the throne of Mj^cenae. From here we went by carriage to Argos and Tyrn, where we stopped to see the most ancient Cyclopean ruins in all Greece. Three cities were built here, one on top of the other. The first dates back to 4000 B. C. Homer speaks of it as the "Wall-girt City." The walls are con- sidered no less wonderful than the Pyram,ids. They are of unhewn stone, from six to ten feet long and three feet wide, placed in regular layers and cemented by smaller stones. The average height of the walls was sixty-iive feet, and twenty-six feet thick. The rock citadel was nine hundred and eighty-five feet long and nearly three hun- dred feet in width. The lower castle contained the dwell- ings of the retainers and the stables for the horses and cattle. The upper castle was occupied by the lordly own- er. There was one chief entrance and several less im- portant ones. Ten Mo n tlis. o n the W ing . 71 The ascription to the Cyclops, who had been invited from Lycia by Proetos, brother of King Akrisios, has ref- erence to some immigration from Asia Minor; subse- quently, according to legend, Tyrns was ruled by Per- seus, grandson of Akrisios, who shrank from taking the Argive kingdom of his grandfather, whom he had acci- dentally killed. The importance of the city falls within the mythical period. However, the ruins prove it to have been mag- nificent for the age. There are numerous chambers, cov- ered passages, storerooms, secret stairways leading to sub- terranean exits, all covered with fine cement; beautiful floors of fancy design, still showing the excellent work- manship; baths, galleries, audience halls, doors resem- bling pointed arches, marble columns and everything found in an elegant home of later periods. We drove on to Nauplia for the night, on the bay of the same name. A charming situation ! Nauplia means ''seamen," which seems to prove that its founders arrived by sea. After the capture of Constantinople by the Crusaders, the Byzantine governor, Leon Sgouros, set- tled here, 1204 A. D. His efforts to found a Greek mon- archy failed, but Nauplia remained in the possession of the Greeks until 1247, subsequently passing to the Vene- tians and later belonging to Turkey. After the confer- ence of London, the first Greek government fixed ita seat at Nauplia, and it was here that the first president, John Kapadistrias, was murdered by his brother, Mavromi- chalis, from private animosity, as he was entering the church of St. Spiridion, October 9, 1831. On January 25th the newly elected King, Otho, made his entry into the city; but the following year the gov- ernment was transferred to Athens. There are about 30,000 T^^rkish prisoners and 10,- 000 Bulgarians here, the latter under the guard of a Turkish general. "He won't let them get away!" The town lies at the foot of a high hill, on which is situated the fortress of Palamidi; one thousand steps lead 72 Ten M onths on the W ing . to the top of the fortress, and here the prisoners are kept, excepting the Turkish officers, who roam about town at will. Out in the baj^ is an ancient fortress, now the resi- dence of the government executioners. These are two men who were condemned to be executed, but whose lives were spared by their promise to act in the capacity of executioners the remainder of their days. Tiiey, too, are kept prisoners, but are paid a salary of sixty dollars per month; when an execution is to take place, they are con- veyed under cover of darkness to the fortress on the hill, where is situated the guillotine. However, it is six years since they have had to perform this duty. We came through Argos on our way to Nauplia; it is a small, dirty hamlet, much like a Mexican village -- flat-roofed houses of adobe, and dogs and dogs ! July 16th. — We spent the night at Hotel Des Etran- ger, and went from there by rail to a station just out of Corinth, where a carriage awaited us. From here we drove for a couple of miles, stopping by a stream to eat our lunch under a large tree. We then went on to an- cient Corinth, which occupies the north and east sides of the hill crowned by the citadel of Aero Corinth. The circumference of the walls was about twelve English miles. In one of the suburbs lived Diogenes, who was visit- ed here by Alexander the Great. This is described as the place where he offered to confer on Diogenes any favor he might ask, to which Diogenes replied that he would oblige him if he (Alexander) would take his body from between him and the sun's rays. Alexander said, "If T were not Alexander the Great, I should wish to be Di- ogenes." The American School of Archaeology has made ex- tensive and important excavations here. We first come to the paved streets of Lechacon, sur- rounded by halls and colonnades. On each side were shops. On the east was a colonnade court, and north of Ten M onths o n the W itig . 7'3 the Argoro was the Propylaea, which contained a colossal statue of the Barbarians, now in the museum near by. West of this was the well-house, with fountains in the form of three bronze lion heads. They remain just aa they were originally. The original well-house was hewn in the rock, the overhanging part supported by short walls forming six chambers, into which the water flowed from behind. In front of this were baths. The large stream of water which formerly supplied this populous city came through a natural subterranean passage from the river Styx, in the mountains; but its source was changed by an earthquake, until now there is only a small stream. At the east side of the city stands the beautiful tem- ple of Apollo, built of rough porous limestone, originally covered with stucco. It had fifteen columns on each side and six on each end, each with twenty flutings, Doric in style. Of these, seven are still standing, with parts of their entablatures. The massive proportions of the mono- lithic columns were twenty-five feet eight and one-half inches high from the base to the capital. Aero Corinth, or the citadel proper, was situated on top of a high hill, which we would have to climb with donkeys; it was too hot to attempt it. This was the an- cient fortress, and commands a view of the surrounding country for miles. Corinth was founded by Sisyphos; its original name was Ephyra. In ancient times it was the Paris of Greece, famous for its rich silks and other stuffs; also its com mercial spirit. Corinth planted numerous colonies, the most noted being Syracuse, Polidaea and Coreya. Until the Persian wars, it was only rivaled in trade by Egina and Miletus, in Asia Minor. It was Corinth that first incited Sparta to its test of strength with Athens. After the declaration of independence of Eome (196 B. C), Corinth became the head of a new Achaean League, but for its rebellion against Eome was punished with the complete destruction by Lucius Mumminies, and its in- habitants sold into slavery. Caesar rebuilt the town and 74 Ten Months on the Wing. planted here a civil colony, chiefly of freedmen. It speed- ily attained a new prosperity and became the seat of the Proconsul of Achaea. This v/as the city that St. Paul knew "as the most splendid city of Greece." Here he founded a colony, whose later division he reproved in his "Epistles to the Corinthians.'' During the middle ages it fell into the hard hands of the Turks, taken by the Venetians in 1687, and from 1745 to 1821 was again un- der Turkish control. Byron describes its capture by the Turks in his Siege of Corinth : "Many a vanished year and age, And tempest's wrath, and battle's rage. Have swept o'er Corinth; yet she stands A fortress form'd to freedom-'s hands. The whirlwind's wrath, the earthquake's shock Have left untouched her hoary rock.'' Leaving Corinth at four P. M., we were in Athens at seven-thirty P. M. Owing to the war, the train was long and heavy, with the hundreds of soldiers being sent to the front. We could scarcely get a seat; even with two locomotives, the train made very poor time. Most of the men were conscripts, and it was pathetic to see their mothers, wives and sweethearts bidding them adieu. July 17th. — We went to the Acropolis once more, I made a kodak of Constantine and J. in front of the temple of Athena Nike, or Victory. It was here that Aegeus stood looking to see his son's ship return from Crete. The Cretans demanded each year six of the choicest youths and six of the choicest maidens as a sacrifice to the Sacred Bull, which inhabited the Labyrinth. These were selected by drawing lots. One year the lot fell to Theseus, son of Aegeus. After blessing him and pray- ing over him, his father told him that if by any chance the gods should see fit to spare his life and send him back, he was to change the black sails — always carried by the Ten Months o n tli e W ing . 75 fatal bark— to white, in order that he (the father) might the sooner know of his son's safety. Now Ariadne, daughter of the King of Crete, fell in love with Theseus on sight and interceded with her father for his life. She gave Theseus a string in order that lie might find his way out of the Labyrinth. He, in his de- light at his escape from death, forgot her as she lay asleep and started home to Athens. In his eagerness to arrive, he also forgot to change the sails to white, and when Ae- geus, who was watching, saw the black sails he thought his son was no more, and threw himself from the top of the rock, just at the Temple of Nike. He was killed, and thus, so 'tis said, came the sea to be called the Aegean, or sea of Aegeus. We visited the bazaars in the afternoon. July 18th. — ^Left Athens by train to Piraeus, only a fifteen minutes' run. Cook's man took us in a rowboat to the steamer Ismalia, of the Khedivial Line ; we sailed at four P. M. "Adios" to Greece. July 19th. — We passed the Isle of Crete today — are out of sight of land. There are only a fev; passen- gers, and they are nearly all sick. July 20Tn. — Reached Alexandria at nine A. M., but owing to quarantine regulations, did not land until twelve. We had to be examined by the physician, as our ship had sailed from Constantinople, where they still have cholera. We feel no apprehension for ourselves, as for- eigners seem to be immune. Many people are inoculated for it before coming to the Orient. We had lunch at the Station Restaurant. Left Alexandria at three P. M. and arrived at Cairo at six P. M. I saw a funny sight as we landed at Alexandria. A 76 T e 11 Mont h s on the TF ing . man took off his Ijig baggy trousers, dipped them into the sea, and put them on again — to cool off, I presume ! July 21st. — Eden Palace Hotel. — We found Egypt and Cairo far beyond our expectations in every way. The Nile Valley is rich beyond description, and Cairo is a fine modern city in many ways, but dirty. The proprietor of our hotel seems to be a very cordial gentleman; he took us out to see the city in his carriage. There are many handsome buildings and fine residences in the suburbs; splendid parks, one just in front of our hotel, the Esbeki- yeh Garden, where the band plays several times during the week. Mr. Papodopulo, proprietor of the hotel, is a Greek. He is very attentive to us, and extremely kind — fills our room with flowers and takes us out every day to show and explain to us things of interest. Today we visited the Zoological Gardens. They have a fine collection of birds and animals. It was formerly the Garden of Ali Ashim Pasha, and was occupied by his harem of three hundred and ten wives. It is the most unique place of the kind to be found anywhere. The Pasha here constructed everything imaginable in the way of a pleasure ground for his large family, sending to France and Italy for architects and landscape gardeners to build grottoes, fountains and baths, miles of beautiful mosaic walks, canals, bridges, lagoons with gondolas, and floating gardens with trees and flowers of every variety — all surrounded by a wall thirty feet high. It was indeed a "beautiful prison," and if anything could reconcile these women to their incarceration, they might have been con- tent, if not happy. Many dreadful things happened in- side these enclosures. Knowing that their lord was all- powerful and had as many wives as he cared to have, it was not unnatural that the women should seek for lovers on the outside; consequently there was much intrigue and many liaisons. For what did thirty feet of wall ever amount to where love was concerned? Often the lover Ten Months on the Wing. 77 was caught — then nothing was ever heard of him again. Ali Ashim Pasha was father to the present Khedive. He was a great spendthrift, anl ahnost bankrupted tlie country. When the English assumed supervision, they took this palace for a "Zoo" and curtailed his expensive habits. The present Khedive is a thrifty business man, and as the English manage the government for him, it leaves him leisure to carry on his financial affairs. He is con- sequently a wealthy man, owning much valuable land and business property in the cit3^ July 22nd. — We went to the Citadel on the hill ; vis- ited the Mosque of Mohammed-Ali, and also El-Azhar. The Mosque is magnificent, patterned after St. Sophia in Constantinople. We also saw the Well of Moses, a shaft cut down three hundred feet into the earth. You can see the water far below, or if one desires, he may descend to the water^s edge by a steep incline, but we did not think it worth the effort. July 23rd. — Went with a dragoman by tram eight miles to the Pyramids of Ghizeh, then walked about half a mile. There has been more written and told about these ancient monuments than about any other subject in history. It is told of Cheops that he anticipated that a great statue of himself would occupy a place in the tomb after his demise; but as he was greatly disliked by his subjects, the only statue found when the excavations were made is a small figure in ivory not over four inches long. He was a cruel tyrant. This enormous pile of stone is four hundred and fifty feet high and seven hundred and fifty-five feet long on each of the four sides at the base. We went around to the Sphinx, which has been gaz- ing into futurity for six thousand years, but has never divulged a single secret of the ages. No one has evei' 78 Ten Months on the Wing. succeeded in solving the mj^stery of its erection, and prob- ably never will, although scientists have concluded that it is the image of the Egyptian deity, Harmachis, "God of the Morning." The body is one hundred and forty feet in length, head thirty feet from forehead to chin and fourteen feet across. The front paws are fifty feet in length and the height of the figure is nearly seventy feet. In 1896 an American Egyptologist discovered the Klaft, or stone cap, known to have been the head cover- ing of the Sphinx. Dean Stanley, in one of Ms descrip- tions, wonders, apropos of the colossal head, "what the sight must have been when on its head there was tlie royal helmet of Egypt," The steadily encroaching sands of the desert have buried the greater portion of the body. It is believed that discoveries of the greatest importance would be made if funds were available for further excava- tions. The figure has been greatly mutilated by fanaf-.ic Mussulmen, Before the mutilation it is said to have worn an expression of "softest beauty and winning grace." Kinglake, in his classical description, says, "And near the Pyramids, more wondrous and more awful than all else in the land of Egypt, there sits the lonely Sphinx. Come- ly the creature is, but the comeliness is not of this world; the once worshipped beast is a deformity and a monster to this generation; and yet, you can see that those lipf!, so thick and heavy, were fashioned according to some an- cient mould of beauty — some mould of beauty now for- gotten — forgotten because that Greece drew forth Cythe- rea from the flashing foam of the Aegean, and in her image created new forms of beauty, and made it a law among men that the short and proudly-wreathed lip should stand for the sign and the main condition of love- liness through all generations to come. Yet still there lives on the race of those who were beautiful in the fash- ion of the older world; and Christian girls of Coptic blood will look on you with the sad, serious gaze and kiss your charitable hand with the big pouting lips of the very Sphinx." Ten Months, on the W ing . 79 The next largest pja^amid is Chephren, four hundred feet high, built by Kha-f-Ea, 3660 B. C. The smallest pyramid, called Her, was built by My- cerinus as a tomb for himself and his family. This is two hundred and fifty feet high. We made a foolish attempt to descend into the in- terior of the Great Pyramid, but after being pulled and jerked by six Bedouins until almost un jointed, veritably feeling like "shoestrings,'' and then finding we had only reached the first level, we declined to go further, much to the disappointment of the Bedouins. The descent is very slippery. One cannot keep on one's feet, even with the support of the Arabs. The weather being extremely warm, we decided it was really unsafe to proceed. The Arabs pounce upon a tourist like a pack of hungry wolves, and you think they will tear you limb from limb in their fierce demands for baksheesh (money.) Were they not afraid, I believe they would commit highway robbery. I rode a donkey back from the pyramids; the donkey boy informed me that his name was California. Every one takes a siesta from twelve to four o'clock. At that hour our dragoman came with a carriage and we drove to Old Cairo, visiting the Mosque of Amru, a copy of the Mosque of Mecca, and the oldest in Cairo. For- merly the grounds belonged to a Jewish woman, Omar offered to buy it from her for camel skins. She accepted the offer, bu.t Omar practiced chicanery, as is the custom here to this day. He took a camel skin and cut it into strings, laying it around the ground that he wanted, thus offering one skin in payment. The woman was so indig- nant that she made a trip to Mecca to see Saladin, and laid her complaint before him, as to the treatment of- fered her by his son, Omar. Saladin commanded his so)i to pay her all she asked, or deliver up the land. As the Mosque already occupied the ground, he offered her pay- ment in gold. Being overcome by the generosity of Omar, she finally adopted Mohammedanism and presented the ground to them. 80' Ten Months on the Wing: There is an ancient Roman aqueduct and fortress near the Coptic Church of St. Mary's; the church is said to be the place where Mary and Joseph hid when fleeing from Herod. The custodian showed us the place in the crypt and the font where Mary bathed the infant Jesus. A Coptic church somewhat resembles a fort, and the By- zantine influence is clearly traceable in the basilica form. The Coj)ts derive their name from Coptos (now Kopt in Egypt), and are the sole representatives of the ancient race who built the pyramids. By guarding their faith in the hostile presence of Mohammedanism, they have doubt- less preserved their name and race. They are Nonophysites, following the teachings of Jacob Baradeus, sixth century. They practice baptism and circumcision and are required to confess their sins. They fast on Wednesdays and Fri- days and observe the Seven Great Feasts, From here we drove to the place said to be the spot where Moses was found in the bulrushes. The Nilometer, used to mark the rise of the Nile, is located near. h\ former times taxes of the fellahs were arranged on a slid- ing scale, dependent on the rise of the Nile. The ancient custom of offering a sacrifice to the Nile is still practiced. Wlien the waters reach a certain height, the people cele- brate the occasion, and offer coins and a wooden or straw figure of a young girl. These are thrown into the stream. One year the Jews throAv in a wooden image, the next year the Eg3^ptians throw in a straw image. July 24th. — Visited the Museum, containing the largest and most valuable collection of Egyptian antiques in the world. Space and time allow only a brief mention of the most popular and interesting. The statue of Keph- ren, builder of the second pyramid ; a famous v/ooden statue of "The Village Sheik," which when brought to the surface in the excavations, the Arabs greeted with cries of "El Shekh el-Beled;" a limestone statue of Ea- hetep and his wife, Nefert; a remarkable water color of geese, still retaining its coloring in a wonderful degree; Ten M o n ths o u the W i ng . 81 the celebrated Hyksos Sphinx in black granite; famous triumphal stela of Tothmes III; a colossal statue of the god Ptah, in sandstone. In the Israel Stela is a black granite stela with early inscriptions that speak of the Children of Israel being spoiled and having no seed. This is the first allusion to the Israelites by name found as yet. The tablet of Sakkarah gives a complete list of the nam^es of fifty-six of the earliest kings, the first being Merbapen, a king of the first dynasty. "The Decree of Canopus/^ an- other famous tablet, is inscribed in Greek and Demotic (non-pictorial) characters. Probably had not the Rosetta Stone been found, this tablet, with its three-fold inscrip- tion, would have proved the key to the language and writings of the ancient Egyptians. There are several hundred mummies, among the most important being that of Sequnen-Ea, killed in bat- tle — his face is badly mutilated. A mummy of Tothmes II has the hair still adhering to the head, as has also that of Eameses II, whose hair appears gray. He was the "Pharaoh of the Oppression." A mummy of Meneptah, the "Pharaoh of the Exodus"; also one of Rameses III, together with the coffin and mummy of Queen Ma-ka-Ea and her infant daughter. Some of these mummies were enclosed in four coffins of wood and several of stone, one inside the other. The collection of jewelry is rich and beautiful and would compare favorably with that of today. There are numerous mummies of animals — such as mon- keys, sheep, gazelle, birds and fowls; images of sacred cats and crocodiles. The crocodile was called Sabek, or God of Darkness. Horus was God of Light. One re- cently excavated statue of interest is that of the sacred Cow of Hather, found at Thebes. There are several of the Sacred Bull. After lunch we drove to Heliopolis and the Obelisk, the oldest in all Egypt — it was brought dov/n from As- souan. It is one of the four famous obelisks now extant, one being in jSFew York, one in London, one was lost in the sea in transit to France, and the fourth is at Heliopo- 82 Ten M onths on the W i n g . lis. Heliopolis was called the City of the Sun. How im- portant it was may be Judged from the fact that the greatest sages of Greece came to stay here and to be in- itiated into the doctrines of the Priests of the Temple. Nothing remains of the city but a pile of debris. It was one of the earliest cities of the world, dating back to the second dynasty. Here was established the cult of the Sa- cred Bulls. The Sun is the most ancient object of wor- ship of the early Egyptians. His birth — the Sun's — each day as he springs from the bosom of the nocturnal heav- ens, is the natural emblem of the eternal generation of divinity. Heliopolis was the mother city of Baalbec. Some indication of the architectural splendor of the an- cient city may be gained from measurements of the stone blocks. The largest is sixtj^-four feet long and four- teen feet in width, being the same in thickness. Matarich is not more than a mile distant, and, ac- cording to etymologists, means "City of the Sun." \x was originally a portion of Heliopolis. The feature of interest here is the sycamore tree, under which Mary is said to have rested on her flight into Egypt. The tree now standing, of course, is not the tree of the legend. This one is only three hundred years old; no doubt it is planted on the spot where the ancient tree grew. The Virgin's Well, near by, is where Mary bathed the Baby. Within the past six years a new and modern city has sprung up on the site of the ancient Heliopolis. A Bel- gian company purchased the ground, built two electric lines from Cairo — a fort}^ minutes' ride — and have built many handsome pensions, fiats, villas, amusement parks (with all the up-to-date arrangements, scenic railways, chutes, et cetera) ; also the finest hotel in the world (or so said to be.) July 25th. — We rested all day; in the evening Mr. Papadopolo drove us out to another fine park, with pretty grottoes, which is the property of the Khedive. Ten Months on the W ing . 83 July 26th. — Went to Cook's and found a cablegram from Cousin S. and Mr. J., with election news. This evening we were walking down the street when a small urchin accosted me with, "Lady, do you want to ride Teddy Eoosevelt?" July 27th. — My birthday! Spent the morning in the Esbekiya Garden. Our landlord sent me lovely flow- ers when he learned it was my natal day. July 28th. — Went to Memphis and Sakkarah with our dragoman, Mahomet Fargali; then by train to Bedra- sheen. We narroAvly escaped a serious accident. Just out of the station, where we took a sand-car for the rest of the journey, the horse, an untrained anim_al, in crossing the track became frightened. The boy who was leading him (they all have to be led, it seems) let go the reins. The horse reared and backed into the canal; J., fearing the two-wheeled cart would turn over with us and fall on me, jumped, or rather fell, out into the water — fortunately it was shallow — and called to me to jump. An Arab pulled me out on the other side and the horse and cart both went down the embankment. It was with difficulty that they were extricated. We were thankful to get off with a wet- ting and a broken umbrella. We finally arrived at the first object of interest — a colossal statue of Eameses II, forty feet long. When un- earthed it was lying on its back; the crown had becomLO detached. He is represented in the act of presenting an ostrich feather to his daughter on her nuptial day. Were it a "willow plume," it were an expensive gift indeed! Farther on we came to another statue of Eameses, which has been presented to the English government by Mohammed Ali, but has not yet been removed. The face is a very handsome one for Egyptian features. It is il- luminated by a pleasant smile which makes it appear life- like; it, also, is forty feet high. These statues were erect- 84 T 6 71 Months on the Wing. ed by Sesostris in front of the Temple of Ptah. Memphis is said to have been founded by Menes, and is of very remote antiquity. Some historians make it date back even to the time of Adam. The fact has been established that it was a flourishing city under the sixth dynasty. Memphis was the capital of Egypt until the eigh- teenth dynasty, when Alexandria was made the capital. Its history for centuries was that of conquest in turn hy Assyrian, Ethiopian, Persian and Greek invaders, until the terrible prophecy of Jeremiah v/as fulfilled — "Mem- phis shall become a desert; she shall be forsaken, and be- come uninhabited." Now it is nothing but a pile of stones and maid bricks. At Sakkarah, a distance of two miles, are the tombs and pyramids known as the Step Pyramid and Oonas Py- ramid. The principal tomb, usually called the Serapeum. is that of the Sacred Bulls, they having been buried he^-e since the eighteenth dynasty up to the time of the Ptole- mies. Only the portion of the mausoleum which formed the burial place of these animals from 650 B. C. to 50 B. C. is shown to visitors. Twenty-four of these mortuary chambers, each containing a sarcophagus averaging thir- teen feet long, seven feet broad and eleven feet high, are to be seen. Some would weigh sixtj^-five tons. They are mostly of porphyry brought from Assouan and Luxor, Only three of the later sarcophagi have inscriptions; one is handsomely polished and ornamented with hieroglyph- ics. They were discovered by Mariette in 1860. He con- jectured, from certain inscriptions on sphinxes he had found, that the long-lost Temple of Osiris-Apis — or, as the Greeks termed it, the Temple of Serapis (for they, too, worshipped the bull) was near Memphis. He was so fortunate as to light upon the mausoleum in his excava- tions. No remains of the bulls were found, they having evidently been rifled of their treasures by invading ' ar- mies. A dramatic element given to the discovery of the sacred sepulchral chamber was the footprints in the sand Ten M ontlis. on the Wing. 85 that covered the floor. These were made by the workmen, three thousand seven hundred years before. How little did they think that the tombs would ever be opened! A characteristic feature of the Egyptian faith was the reverence "paid to certain animals and birds, wh'ch continues to this day, A bull was kept twenty-four years, and if he outlived that time, was killed and offered as a sacrifice. If he died before that time, a new one replaced him. It sometimes happened that for years the priests were unable to discover an animal with all the complex markings corresponding to the ideal Apis. The tomb of Thi, a priest of the fifth dynasty, is one of the most interesting, as well as the most elaborately decorated Ancient Empire tomb yet discovered; the chambers and corridors are rather a subterranean temple than a tomb. The paintings and sculpture are skilfully executed, the colors being remarkable. A long entrance extends into the corridor, from which steps lead do"\\n through two more long passages, very low, so one has to stoop to enter ere the crypt is reached. This indicates their efforts to securely hide the tomb — but the "best laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee." The tomb of Ptah-Iietep is of the fifth dynasty, and is almost as interesting as those of Mera and Thi. The pictorial reliefs are particularly fine. The Step Pyramid is one of the most remarkable in all Egypt. If Mariette is correct in attributing it to Uene- phus, a king of the first dynasty, then it must be the old- est historic building in the world. It must have been erected over two thousand years before the birth of Abra- ham. Two others of the pyramids are small ; another very large one is not open to visitors. The country around ancient Memphis and Sakkarah is covered with an immense forest of date palms, while the rich valley is planted at the present season to kaffir corn. They grow four crops a year on the soil ; wheat, cotton, corn and cane for sugar. But the ancient mode of cultiva- tion still obtains. Plowing with oxen and wooden plows; 86 Ten M onths on the Wing. raising water from the Nile, while it is low, with a horse, ox or camel. After August, the sowing season begins at Assouan. Then the river rises rapidly, and the flood- gates are lifted to let the water spread over the land. The camel is the chief beast of burden — costs from twenty-five to one hundred and twenty- five dollars, ac- cording to the size and age. The donkey comes next iu order of importance for transportation and, as in all coun- tries he inhabits, is cruelly treated. Often you cannot see the animal for the load he carries. The streets of Cairo are a kaleidoscope of colors after five o'clock, when every one goes out for an airing. The costumes of the males vary according to taste: one will dress in modern garb except his fez; another will wear a long skirt down to the ground, with a modern coat over it; some wear bright pink or blue long skirts, with an- other long dark skirt over them, and others wear several of these — perhaps one of silk, one of cotton and one of woolen stuff. The native women wear a black veil over the lower part of the face, with a nose-piece of bamboo, decorated with gold bands, and immense ear-rings. The Turkish women and slave women wear a Avhite veil, slav- ery in a modified form still being in practice. One can- not buy a slave without the consent of the person pur- chased. As soon as a man gets a few dollars ahead, he buys another wife. He can divorce them at will, but must find someone else to take them. Our dragoman said that his people married him to a girl Avhen he was eigh- teen years old, but on seeing her he did not like her, so he had them marry her to another man; now he has an Austrian wife. They never see one another until after marriage; it is like "buying a pig in a poke." July 29th. — Spent the day resting. July 30th. — Went with Mohamet to visit the tombs of the Caliphs. The Mosque of Kait Bey is small, but has an elegant dome and is a model of elegance and grace T e n Mont h s. o n the W ing . 87 in all its parts. The two sacred relics are the slabs of red and of black granite. One has a depression the si?;e and shape of a man's foot, the other of his hand. The legend attached to them is that they were brought from Mecca, the depressions having been made by the hand and the foot of Mohammed. The Miosqiie of El-Ashraf has a fine dome, with in- tricate patterns oi stone-chasing, and a mosaic pavement, which is an excellent specimen of Saracenic art. The Mosque of the Khedive Thewfik is very hand- some, though modern; it contains the tomb of himself and wife. There are thousands of minor tombs of private fami- lies, some only "freshly dead," as the dragoman put it. We came home through the region of Bazaars. They form an immense network of streets and alleys and represent a moving panorama of Egyptians, Turks, Moors and Jews — all crying their wares as one goes by. Many of the antiques and curios were made in Europe, though some are genuine. We bought a few trinkets from a Jew- ish Mason. A man tried to sell me a live lizard this morning; he was quite persistent about it, too. July 31st. — Went with our landlord to the Barrage, a huge dam built across the Nile at the head of the Delta. The dam is a double one, nearly two miles in length, con- nected by a high v/all originally planned as a fortress. The Damietta branch span is six hundred yards long, the Rosetta five hundred yards. (The Nile forms three mouths at Cairo.) There are a hundred and thirty arches and six towers at intervals of about two hundred and fifty yards. There is a splendid park in connection with the Barrage, containing a great variety of trees and flowers; but these lovely parks are not appreciated by the Egyp- tians, who prefer to loaf around the cafes and play domi- noes all day long. We went by train to the first tower, then for a dis- 88 Ten Months on the Wing. tance of two miles we went by hand-car on a miniature railway, propelled by an Arab. August 1st. — Made preparations to leave Cairo. Our landlord has formed quite an attachment for us. He says he hopes to see us once again before he dies. He has been quite kind to us — like the landlords in Nor- way' — which is saying a great deal. It makes one realize that humanity is the same the world over. It is pleasant to find nevr friends, especially in foreign lands. August 2nd. — Left Cairo at eleven A. M. Mr. Papo- dopolo came to the train to see us off, and brought me a lovely bouquet of roses and a bottle of perfume from Ara- bia. Arrived at Port Said at three-ten P. M. Hotel East- ern Exchange. — Nice and cool here. The city is on a point of land with water on three sides. August 3ed. — Left Port Said at live P. M. August 4th. — Arrived at Jaffa at seven A. M. )n the steamer Tewfikeah. The disembarking was very dif- ficult. Owing to the numerous breakers, the boat can only come within a mile of the shore, and the landing is made in small boats. A screaming, howling mob attacked the ship, pulling and dragging the passengers into their boats. The waves are so high that the boats are dashed against the sides of the ship. J. got quite wet; two men dragged me into the boat by main force. At Jaffa we met our new dragoman, Kalile Gandour, who goes with us all through the Holy Land — a journey of twenty-one days. We took a carriage drive to the tomb of Dorcas, out on the road that St. Peter traveled in going to Jaffa; and then to the house of Simon the Tanner (Acts ix:9-48>. Had lunch at the Hardegg's Jerusalem Hotel. Th«i Ten Months, on the W ing . S'J rooms are not numbered in this hotel, but are named for Biblical characters; ours was Jeremiah. The Jaffa of Scriptures, meaning "beautiful," men- tioned in Joshua xix. 46, is within the boundaries of Dan. In Solomon's time, when Hiram, King of Tyre, sent the cedars and pine-wood for the building of the Temple, he said : "And we will cut the wood out of Lebanon as much as thou shalt need; and will bring it to thee in floats by sea to Jaffa, and thou shalt carry it to Jerusalem." (II Chron. ii. 16.) The city has suffered many vicissitudes. For over a thousand years it has been the landing-place for pilgrims to Jerusalem. Started for Jerusalem at one-thirty; the road, by rail, is through the Yalley of Sharon. En route there are sev- eral places of historic interest. Lydda, mentioned in Acts ix. 32-35 ; Akir, the modern representative of ancient Ek- ron (Jos. xiii. 3 ; Jos. xv. 45.) It was one of the cities not captured by Joshua. After his death it was taken by Judah (Judges i. 18.) It is especially mentioned in the history of the time when the ark was in the land of the Philistines (I Sam. v.-vi.) Ekron is mentioned in the time of Jehoshaphat as the center of idolatrous worship. It was not far from here that the she-bear ate the child- ren who, mocked Elisha, and the judgment that came upon the place was predicted by many of the prophets. In the Apocrypha it is mentioned as the place given by Alexan- der Balas to Jonathan Maccabaeus in reward for his ser- vices, and at a much later date it is mentioned in connec- tion with a march of King Baldwin (A. D. 1100.) Next we come to the station of Sajed, famous in the story of Samson and Delilah (Judges xvi. 4, to the end. 1 The station of Deir Aban is reached after three miles. Immediately after the train enters the ravine, we come to a large cave in the beetling precipice, known as the Cave of Samson, where he retired after "smiting the Philistines hip and thigh." (Judges xv. 12-15.) 90 Ten Months on the Wing. Ain el Hanieli marks the place where Phillip bap- tized the Ethiopian eunuch. (Acts viii. 38.) The monastery of Mar Elyas is located in the tradi- tional "Vale of Eephaim." (Joshua xv. 8, and Sam. v. 32.) (Here David smote the Philistines.) The train enters the station at Jerusalem to the south of the city, not far from the Jaffa Gate. The Eose of Sharon, or narcissus, still grows here in profusion during the early spring months. Another place of Biblical importance between Jaffa and Jerusalem is the Tell el Jezer, or Eoyal City of tho Canaanites. This place is mentioned in tablets of the fifteenth century B. C. by the Egyptians. In recent years the Palestine Exploration Fund has made extensive exca- vations here and found abundant evidence of the import- ance of the city in ancient times. It was invaded by Da- vid, captured and burned by Pharaoh, who gave it for a present to his daughter, Solomon's wife; it is often re- ferred to as Gazara. In 1177 A. D., Saladin was defeated by the Christians in an attack on this place. The walls date from 300 B. C. The most unicjue find was the Sem- itic High-Place, consisting of an alignment of eight rough stone pillars from five and a half to eleven feet high. In connection with the temple were found remains of human infant sacrifices and a small "brazen serpent." In this Tell over two hundred caves have been found, in which rude drawings of animals, cows, horses, buffaloes and sca- rabs were discovered. Over two hundred and fifty tomb;? containing cereals, bottles of wine, spoons and knives were dug up. Another important discovery was an underground tunnel leading to a supply of water. jSText in importance is the Valley of Ajalon, where Joshua commanded the sun and moon to stand still. (Joshua X. 12-13.) Near the top of the mountain we pass Saris. The village of Ain Karim is said to be the birthplace of St. John the Baptist (Luke i. 39), while Ko- lonieh is supposed to be the Emmaus of St. Luke's Gos- pel. Lifta is generally identified with Nephtoah (Joshua Ten Months, on the Wing. 01 XV. 9.) Birket Mamilla is perhaps the "Upper Pool." We passed near these towns, but not through them. GeajStd New Hotel, Jerusalem, August 5th. — We visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. The first ob- ject we see on entering is the Stone of Unction, where the body of Christ was laid when taken from the cross; there is seldom an hour in the day when someone is not kissing this stone. Large lamps and candelabra hang over it — these belonging to the Armenians, Greeks, Latins and Copts. There are five churches in one. It is greatly in need of repairs, but not one of the sects will consent to the other doing the work, for the sect that makes the re- pairs will claim it as private property. What few repairs have been made were done by Mohammedans, guarded by a body of soldiers. So fierce is the Jealousy that on fes- tal days, such as Easter, it requires a strong force of arm- ed troops to keep the peace; and even these have proved ineffectual in preventing bloodshed on occasions. Four 5^ears ago six people were killed on Easter. People gather from all over the world on that day, believing that the sacred fire descends from heaven onto the Sacred Tomb at two o'clock in the afternoon. The Holy Sepulchre stands in the center of the rotunda in a small chapel, twenty feet long by eighteen feet wide, built of Santa Croce marble. A low door leads to it from the eastern vestibule. The interior is six by seven feet; here forty- eight lamps are always burning. 'No part of the original stone is visible from the interior, as people have carried it off in small particles as souvenirs until it had to bo covered up entirely. The chapel of the Syrians is in the original part of the church built by Constantine — so dark is it that can- dles are a necessity. Here are the tombs of ISTicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea, with others lower down. A Syrian hermit occupies these tombs as a bedchamber. North of the Sepulchre is the Latin vestibule, where a slab of inlaid marble marks the spot where Mary Mag- 92 Ten Months on the W i n g . dalene stood when Jesiis said to her, "Woman, why weep- est thou?" (John xx. 15.) Ascending three steps, we enter the Eoman chapel. On the right is an altar, and on it a stick. By putting the stick into a hole over the altar a stone is touched, called the Column of the Scourging, to which Christ was bound and scourged by order of Pilate. This column is shown to Latins on Wednesday of Holy Week. The stone was formerly in the house of Caiaphas on Zion. Near here is the Sacristy where the sword, spurs and cross of Godfrey di Bouillon are kept by a Franciscan monk. The Chapel of Saint Longinus is to the left. Saint Longinus was the centurion who said, "Truly this man was the Son of God.'' Next to it is the Chapel of the Division of the Vestments. Near this is a flight of twent}^-nine steps, leading down to the Chapel of St. Helena and the Chapel of the Cross — the place where the True Cross was found. Eeturning to the Sepulchre, we find a flight of eigh- teen steps, which we ascend to Calvary. Under this chapel you may see the holes in the stone where the crosses stood. Under Calvary is Golgotha (Hebrew for skull.) Tradi- tion affirms that Adam was buried here. Adjoining this is the Chapel of the Nailing of the Cross. Near the altar, on Calvary, is a long brass cover over the Eent in the Eock, made by the earthquake at the time of the Crucifixion. South of this we see through a window the small Chapel of St. Mary — the spot where Mary and the be- loved disciple stood, when the most touchingly pathetic incident in the Gospel history occurred. (John xix. 25- 27.) From here we went to the new Lutheran church, and then down the Via Dolorosa to a new Eoman church. Later we drove to the Mount of Olives, on the old road to Damascus, stopping on the way to visit the Tomb of the Kings of Judah — most interesting. Just outside are the cisterns where the water was caught from troughs, T e n M o n ths. o n the W i n g . 93 hollowed out of the natural stone^ as are also the cisterns and tombs. In a circular basin near by the bodies were bathed before burial. We enter a large square excava- tion. On one facade were several stone columns, a com- bination of Eoman and Doric, forming the front of a por- tico. Descending three stone steps and entering a door so low we had to stoop, we found ourselves in a subter- ranean room about fourteen feet square, where the last ceremonies were performed. A stone seat encircles the wall, and from this the tombs open, three and four on a side. Above the tombs were places for altars and a tri- angular niche for the oil lamp — the triangle signifying Father, Son and Holy Ghost. Ascending the Mount of Olives, we first went to the Place of the Ascension, where Mary stood when she saw the vision. There is a Eoman chapel on the spot. From there we walked over to the place where Christ ascended into heaven. This site is occupied by a Moslem mosque, but Catholics are allowed to worship there. From here a path leads to the spot from which Christ first saw the city of Jerusalem. On our left lies the Valley of Kidron; far to the right lies the Dead Sea and the Eiver Jordan, with the Mountains of Moab in the background. (Our hotel is situated on Mount Zion.) Our dragoman is an amusing fellow; his name. Can- dour, means "jolly,'' and his Christian name, Kalil, mean- ing Abraham, or a "friend," so, fully interpreted, his name means "a jolly friend." He was in charge of the Pales- tine exhibition at St. Louis in 1904; was also chief drago- man to the Emperor of Germany when he toured the Holy Land. He told us of his experience with his tents while in St. Louis'. It seems that they assigned him a place on one side, where no one ever came : he stood it for three weeks and then went to Cook's and told them he was go- ing to move his tents to a better location. They remon- strated with him, telling him he would be arrested if he undertook it, but he persisted, and they washed their 94 Ten Months on the Wing. hands of all responsibility. One morning at sunrise he had all his tents moved over on the road to the "Boer War," where everybody passed. A policeman came by and told him to report to the Board of Managers, which he did. President Erancis asked him by whose authority he had moved his tents. Kalil, being equal to the occa- sion, said: "Now, see here, we came over to show you people how we travel in the Holy Land; and this is the way we do it — when a sheik tires of one place he pulls up stakes and moves to another place; if he happens to locate in a man's field, he pays damages and stays there as long as he cares to; but if he doesn't like the location, he moves again. Now, if we don't like it here, we will move to some other place, just as they do at home." Mr. Francis laughed and said : "No, no ! for gracious sake stay where you are, and be done with it." August 6th. — Arose at four A. M. ; had breakfast and v/as on the road to Jericho by five o'clock. We drove three horses to a light spring wagon. Jericho is twenty- four miles from Jerusalem, and eleven hundred feet lower. The road is frightfully rough. I use the word ad- visedly, for it seems miraculous that the carriage does not go over the embankment; in places where the road is quite narrow, the third horse could scarcely keep the road. Going down is not quite so bad, but it is like driving up a stairway when returning. Prom the A230stles' Fountain there is a steep descent to Bethany, the home of Mary, Martha and Lazarus. Visi- tors are shown the foundation of their house and the rock tomb of Lazarus. Some few miles further down is an inn where refreshing drinks are sold. Soon after this we came to the "Backache Stone," where those who have that trouble are immediately re- lieved after rubbing against it and leaving a small stone on top as an offering. Our dragoman insisted on our dismounting and doing the "stunf — so we need fear no more trouble of that kind. Ten Months, on the Wing. 95 A little over half way, we reached the house of the Good Samaritan, where we stopped to rest the horses and buy post cards. From here to Jericho the road is just a rocky place between mountains. The road passes to the right of the Moslem shrine of Neby Musa, the traditional burial-place of Moses. Shortly after there appears on tlie left a deep gorge, Wady Kelt, thought by some to be the Valley of Achor. A narrow path leads along the moun- tain side to the Convent of St. George, this being the place where he killed the dragon. The gorge is a deep, narrow ravine between the mountains and only accessible to pedestrians. Numerous hermits live in the caves ou the precipitous sides, who entertain pilgrims from Eussia when they are journeying to Jericho. At this season the mountains are entirely void of herbage, and appear brown stony wastes. We are told that they are green in winter — January and February being the rainy season. We reached Jericho about nine-thirty A.- M., but drove through and out beyond the tov/n to the ancient Jericho of Joshua. Some of the foundation stones are still in place. Kear by is the Pool or Fountain of Elisha, where Christ used the salt to sweeten the water. Eeturning to Hotel Belle Yue, we lunched and rest- ed until two-thirty. We then drove down to the Jordan washed our hands in its waters; then drove to the Dead Sea, eight miles from Jericho. It is forty-six miles in length, nine and one-half miles in its greatest width, its average depth is 1,080 feet, and it is 1,300 feet lower than the Mediterranean. There- are some few shells that are washed down from the Lake of Galilee. We dipped our hands in the water; they felt sticky, as though dipped in brine. We returned to Jericho and spent the night. From our window we have a view of the Mount of Temptation. August 7th. — Arose at three-fifteen A. M. Started on our return to Jerusalem at four-thirty. Eested the 96 Ten Months on the Witig. horses at the house of the Samaritan an hour, arriving at our hotel at ten-thirty P. M. Jerusalem is 2,500 feet in altitude; the climate is about like Lincoln, New Mexico. We find it pleasant af- ter being in Egypt and Jericho — we sleep under cover here. August 8th. — ^We visited Mosque Haram-esh-Sherif, the site of Solomon's Temple. This was originally a ba- silica built by Justinian in honor of the Virgin. It is said to be the most m.agnificent mosque in the world. To enter here it is necessary to notify the consul of the coun- try from which you come, and he sends a Kawas. from the consulate to accompany visitors; even then it is not en- tirely safe. Two years ago two American ladies were shot by a fanatic while he was at prayer. Some claim that they laughed at the ceremonies, but the Englishman with whom they boarded told us there was no provocation whatever; he wanted to kill a "Christian dog" in order to please his God. One victim was wounded in the eye, the other was shot in the leg. Our Kawas wore a Zouave jacket, with the American eagle embroidered on the back. We were obliged to remove our shoes before entering. The mosque, called the Dome of the Eock, stands on the summit of Mount Moriah, Avhere Oman had his thresh- ing floor; where Abraham offered up Isaac; where David interceded for his plague-stricken people; where the Jew- ish Temple, the Glory of Israel, stood; where Mary came to present the Holy Child; where He stood among the doctors, teaching and explaining the things concerning Himself. Here was the center of the religious, the poeti- cal and the political life of God's chosen people. The mosque is surrounded by a wall sixteen hundred and one feet long on the west, fifteen hundred and thirtj- feet on the east, ten hundred and twenty-four feet on the north and nine hundred and twenty-two feet on the south. It is entered by seven gates on the west, the principal one being the Bab-es-Silsileh, or the Gate of the Chain. Wo Ten Months on the Wing. 97 entered by the main gate and on the right are steps lead- ing np_ to the Dome of the Eock. The building has eight sides, each sixtj^-eight feet long. The whole is covered with richly colored porcelain tiles, bearing inscriptions from the Koran. There are four arcades facing the car- dinal points of the compass. The rich interior is qnito gloomy, and one has to wait until the eyes become accus- tomed to the darkness before one can see. The ceiling dates from the eleventh century, and was restored by Sahi- din. It is richly decorated in mosaics. The dome is supported by twelve Corinthian columns of marble, which have been defaced by gilding the capitals. The thirty-six stained glass windows are of great beauty and brilliancy; the arches are covered with colored glass mo- saics, over which are inscriptions from the Koran — these date from 693 A. D. The dome is ninety-eight feet high and seventy-five feet in diameter. The Sacred Eock is beneath the Dome. It is an unhewn rock sixty-five feet long by forty-five feet v/ide and stands four feet nine inches above the pavement. The surface bears the marks of bad treatment. In the center is a large hole where the blood from the sacrifice poured down to the stone channel, then ran down under the temple. Descending eleven steps, we entered a cave below the Eock. This is shown as the praying-place of Abraham and Solomon. Here in one corner is an altar, with beau- tiful carvings representing one column in three, in the form of a chain whose links are interwoven so as to rep- resent three in one. In the center is a well; the Moslems believe that this is where the spirits of the departed de- scend, and here will take place the reuniting of the spirits with the bodies on the day of resurrection. Outside the mosque is a shrine, where it is said David and Solomon were accustomed to offer up their prayers — now a Moslem praying-place. The columns are from the ancient tem- ple; the ceiling, decorated in mosaics, contains inscrip- tions from the Koran. The Mosque of El-Aksa was founded by Emperor 98 Ten Months on the Wing. Justinian, 536 A. D. The interior is rather plain, but very spacious, and would hold several thousand people ; it has a few handsome windows. A stone slab near the entrance marks the tomb of the Sons of Aaron. It also marks the burial place of the murderers of Thomas a Becket, who came here on a penitential pilgrimage, and where they died and were buried. Near the pulpit is the praying-place of Moses; near this is a stone bearing a footprint of Christ — the Moslems say it is that of Mo- hammed. To the Well of the Leaf a curious legend attaches. A Moslem lost his bucket in the well and went down to get it; he found a door which opened into a beautiful garden; he wandered around and then returned, bringing a leaf with him for a token. The leaf never withered, but the door has never been found — it was the door to Para- dise. From the southern corner of the terrace we descend three flights of stairs to the Stables of Solomon. Hej-o we are shown a stone trough, said to be the Cradle of Christ, but onl}^ the ignorant believe that it is the real one. Here are remains of the ancient Temple, the pil- lars of the Double Gate and the lintel of the Single Gate, beautifully carved; also the arch of an old bridge. To the north of the terrace are the remains of the Golden Gate; the carving is very tine. No one is allowed to photograph the mosque, but a Swiss gentleman bribed the guard and made a snap-shot; afterwards the guard made a pretense of fulfilling his duty by inquiring what the gentleman had in his hand. Wlien told he had "chocolates," the guard said. "Oh! All right." In the afternoon we visited the Judgment Hall of Pontius Pilate, now a part of a Catholic convent.- The ancient pavement is still in place, and part of the ancient arch of Ecce Homo, which abuts on the Via Dolorosa and is included in part of the Chapel of the Flaggelation. The convent is under the management of the Sisters of Zion. Ten M tit lis. on the W ing . 99 They care for the poor children of all classes, teaching them cleanliness and industry. A few steps farther on is the prison where Christ was confined — now a barracks for Turkish soldiers. Every Friday afternoon the devoted Catholics come to pray at the different stations on the Via Dolorosa. There was quite a crowd of them as we passed. ISFot far from here is the Church of St. Anne and the Pool of Bethesda. A church is built over the ruined wall of the house of the Virgin; a place in the stone is shown as her birthplace. In the same court is the pool where Jesus cured the sick on the Sabbath day. Eeturning by the same way, we passed the Wailing Place of the Jews. It was a pathetic sight. The way was lined with beggars, and the sight of men and womeii weeping and praying was sad in the extreme. They stick nails in the rocks, and place on them pieces of paper with prayers written and addressed to their Saints in Heaven ; and, if relieved from their distress, they believe the Saints have been instrumental in giving them relief. Going out, we passed the place where St. Stephen was stoned to death. August 9th. — -We drove out to Bethlehem. Visited the Church of the Nativit}'', founded by Constautine 330 A. D. It contains four rows of marble columns, with Corinthian capitals. The crests of the Crusaders are on some of the shafts. This is the oldest monument of Christian architecture in the world. In this edifice Bald- win I was crowned. The roof was renewed by Edward IV of England. On one side is a mediaeval font. The mo- saics date from 1169 A. D. The chapel, or Grotto of the Nativity, is a cave in the rock, over which the church is built. The Altar of the Magi marks the place where the Wise Men presented their gifts. The Chapel of Joseph is where the angel warned him to flee into Egypt; here is where St. Jerome lived 100 Ten Months on the Wing. and wrote for thirty 3'ears, and is accepted by the major- ity of Bible students as the real birthplace of Christ. Bethlehem is first mentioned as the burial-place of Eachael, after the birth of Benjamin; and is the scene of the story of Euth, Naomi and Boaz. Here Eutli became the wife of Boaz and the ancestress of the Kings of Ju- dah. Again, this is the place of the anointing of David by Samuel, to be King of Israel. (I Sam.; besides being mentioned in Jeremiah, Ezra, Nehemiah and Micah. ) The men of Bethlehem are said to be the largest and the women the handsomest of Palestine — we failed to see the "handsome" ones. Those whom we saw were like three- fourths of the people we usually see on the streets — dirty, ragged, unkempt creatures, always crying for "baksheesh" (money.) On our way we passed the Grotto of the Shepherds. There is a Greek Church, an Armenian Church and a Eoman Catholic Church on the site of the Birthplace, all quarreling and fighting, so that they have to keep two Turkish soldiers on guard all the time to preserve the peace. In the afternoon we took a donkey ride around the city of Jerusalem, stopping at the Well of the Magi, the Models of the Temple, Solomon's Quarries and the Tomb of the Virgin; here is a Christian church built by Saint Helena. Descending fifty steps, we enter a cave in ttio rock. On the right is a tomb, said to be that of St. Milli- cent, and one on the left is the tomb of St. Anne. The Tomb of the Virgin is always decorated with floral offer- ings and burning lamps. This tomb is near the Garden of Gethsemane and the Chapel of Agony, the latter plactj where the disciples slept; also the spot where Judas gave the kiss of betrayal. These are close to the entrance to the Garden. "\Yhen Jesus spoke these words he went over the brook Cedron, where was a garden into which he entered, and his disciples with him." The Garden is kept by the Franciscans and is planted to beautiful flowers. From here we descended a steep path to the Pool Ten M onths on the W ing . 101 of Siloam and Valley of Jehoshapliat, where Christ an- nointed the eyes of the blind man and said, "Go and wash in the Pool of Siloam." We then went down a narrow path between the "Wall and the Valley of Hinnom. On the far side to the left is the village of Siloam; farther on^ the Tomb of Absa- lom, St. James and Zacharias. August 10th, Sunday. — Eested all day. J. wont with Mr. Auer to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. August 11th. — Went to the house of Caiaphas. It now contains the tombs of Armenian patriarchs; accord- ing to Greek tradition, the prison of Christ is here. A little south of this is the Tomb of David; this has been shown since the twelfth century as the City of David on Mount Zion. Adjoining the tomb is the Coenaculum, or Chamber of the Last Supper. The Christians of the city flock here on Mondays and Thursdays to see the Francis- cans wash the feet of pilgrims "in His memory.'' From here we went to the Garden Tomb ; this ap- pears to have been used as a tomb by the Knights of St. John. General Gordon thought it the "real burial-place" of Christ, and the hill at the back to be the Hill of Skulls — this from the resemblance to a skull in the rocky face of the cliff. August 12th. — Left Jerusalem at six-thirty A. M. for Nablus. The road leads through the mountains, which at this season are entirely devoid of verdure, excepting where there are olive groves.* We passed Shafat, or Nob, the place to which David fled from Saul (Samuel xxi. 1) ; then Tell-El-Ful (the Hill of Beans), El Eam or Eamah. They drive three horses abreast here. The tv/o leaders (*Note: The roots of the olive never die; often a tree will burst asunder from old age, and form as many as fifteen separate trees. 102 Ten Months on the Wing. have sleigh bells on their harness ; the third is usually dec- orated with several strands of bright beads. Most of the drivers are very cruel, but we are fortunate in that re- spect; ours is very kind to his animals. Nablus is situ- ated between Mount Bbal and Mount Gerizim. Gerizim^ or the Mount of Blessing, is reached by a steep ascent. We had not time to go up, but travelers are urged not to miss the opportunity to do so. It is here the Samaritans have their encampment, during the Feast of the Passover. The ancient rites are still observed at this time. On the tenth of the month the sacrificial lambs are brought up the mountain. They must be a year old, males and 'Vithout blemish." During the following davo they are well kept — washed and purified. Early on the morning of the fou.rteenth of the month the whole com- munity close their dwellings and climb up the mountain, pitch their tents and prepare to celebrate the most charac- teristic of their national solemnities. About the middle of the forenoon the officials proceed to kindle the sacrifi- cial fire ; for this purpose a pit is sunk into the earth and built around with stones. AVhen this is accomplished, the Yacub, or priest, offers a prayer. Another fire is then kindled in a kind of sunken trough, close by the platform where the service is to be performed. Over this two cal- drons of water are placed and a short prayer is said. A carpet is laid near the caldrons and the priest reads the service, assisted by the elders. Young men, dressed in robes of unbleached cotton, then bring in the lambs. At mid-day the paschal sacrifice is. introduced, according to the Scriptures. In an instant one lamb is thrown on its back by one of the 3^oung men; another, vath flashing knife, does the murderous work instantly. After all the lambs are slain, the young men dip their fingers in the blood and mark a spot on the forehead and noses of the women and children, but not the men. Hotel Nablus. — Nablus is an ancient City of Eef- uge. It lies in a rich valley, six miles long and one mile Ten Months on the Wing. 103 wide. It is mostly planted in figs and olives, with some pomegranates. Mount Glierizim is on the left and Mount Ebal on the right. The city has a population of 25,000. In the center of the city — the most densely populated dis- trict — the streets are arched over and the houses built on top of the arches. The streets are narrow, dark and fil- thy. One cannot pass through the motley throng with- out getting his clothes soiled. This city is the headquar- ters of the Samaritans, a peculiar sect who still adhere to the teachings of the Pentateuch. They claim to be de- scendants of Aaron and have in their church an ancient copy of the Pentateuch, three thousand five hundred years old, written by the son and grandson of Aaron. Tin; church is the only Samaritan place of worship in the country. They never mix or intermarry with outsiders. It will be remembered that the woman of Samaria asked Christ why he should ask her, a Samaritan womana, for a drink, he being a Jew. There is a Greek church Just outside of Nablus, over the well called Jacob's Well, said to be the identical one where the story occurred; we drank from it, and found it the best water we have had since leaving Switzerland. August 13th. — We left Nablus at six-thirty A. M. Drove to Nazareth, fifty long miles through dust and heat. There is a government road most of the way, but it is only an excuse for a road, and very rough and rocky. We ate our lunch under a fig tree by the wayside, then drove on into Jena to water the horses and rest a while. From here the road runs through a rich valley; on the right rises the mountains of Gilboa, where Saul is said to have fallen on his own sword; farther on is Mt. Tabor; on the left is the Mount of Precipitation, where the Naza- renes wished to kill Christ by hurling him from aloft. An hour before we reach Nazareth we ascend the mountain by a zig-zag road leading to the town. Our driver has been kind to the horses and they are still quite fresh, although coming so far. He is the only 104 Ten Months on the Wing. handsome Arab we have seen. Our dragoman says the Bedouin treats his wife as cruelly as he does his horse. This must be cruel, indeed, judging from the sore backs of his donkeys and horses ! Nazareth is a city of between seven and ten thousand population. It is a shade cleaner than Jerusalem or jSTa- blus, though the same system of open sewers down the middle of the street obtains here, also. The people are better clad and the place has a more modern appearance. On our way we met an Englishman who has lived in Jerusalem twenty-two years. He says that begging is considered a very profitable business in Palestine. The beggar's excuse is that he is conferring a favor on the on.3 who gives, as "it is more blessed to give than to receive" — as the Good Book teaches. He instanced several cases that came under his notice, where men who own land in the country come to the city during the tourists' season especially to beg. They select a location near some his- torical place and lie on the ground, pretending to be crip- pled or paralyzed. When the season is over they retire to their farms with sufficient to carry them over until next season. One man rents three houses and has plenty to live in comfort, and still adds to his income by beg- ging. August 14tii. — We have visited the Church of the Anunciation, where the angel appeared to Mary; here is the carpenter shop of Joseph, the synagogue where Christ taught the Jews, and the Spring where Mary went for water. We are now ready to proceed to Tiberias. August 15th. — Hotel Tiberias. — Left Nazareth at two-thirty P. M. on the 14th. The road ascends the moun- tain for some miles, and then traverses a rich plain ; to our left we passed the mountain where Jonah is supposed to be buried; some miles farther on, the town of Cana of Gralilee, where we stopped to water our horses and drink T e n M o n tits o n the W i n g . lOo from the spring whose waters Christ turned into wine at the marriage feast. (John ii. 1.) After passing two or three more villages, the "metal- led road," as they call a rocky strip, ceases, and the re- mainder of the route to Tiberias is a track in the plain. After proceeding some miles we pass on our left a curiously shaped volcanic hill, called Horns of Hattin, from its two horns or peaks. In the time of the Crusad- ers a fierce battle was fought on its summit; here they were defeated by Saladin, July 3, 1187. The Latins be- lieve it to be the Mount of Beatitude. Not far froni'-here we ascended a high ridge from where there is a splendid view of the Sea of Galilee. By six o'clock v/e are in Tiberias. The situation of the town is very attractive, and with a little labor and some capital could be made a charming health resort, as there are fine hot springs just outside the town having a temperature of 135 degrees and containing sulphur and other medicinal properties. The lake is six hundred and eighty feet below the Mediterranean; is twelve and one-fourth miles in and six and one-half miles in breadth; the water is good for household purposes. There is good fishing and boating, but it is safer to do the boating in the forenoon, as in the afternoon the wind rises and the waters become so boisterous that it often capsizes small boats, or if not so serious an accident, one is liable to get a drenching with the waves. The Biblical allusions to the sea, or lake, are numerous, but to most people the refer- ences made to it in the New Testament are peculiarly in- teresting. Capernaum, on its north shore, was the home of Christ after he was driven out of Nazareth. Here he called Peter, James and John, the three most intimate of his dis- ciples; here he performed the miracle of the loaves and fishes ; here Peter walked on the water through his faith in The Master ; here Christ chided the tempest and bade the waters rest. All through Matthew, Luke and John we read of His life on the shores of Galilee. It was then 106 Ten Months on the Wing. called the Sea of Genneseret. "It is indeed a consecrated lake, hallowed by His Divine performances." Earthquakes are not infrequent in these parts; in 1909 there was a disturbance near Nazareth in which al- most an hundred people lost their lives or were wounded. We arose at four this morning, and at six-thirty went for a ride on the lake with four oarsmen. We were out about three and a half hours; passed near Magdala, the home of Mary Magdalene, nov/ a Jewish colony, and went within sight of Capernaum, but it was so hot on the water we thought it wiser to return. To the east of the lake Mount Hermon rises ten thous- and feet, dominating the whole of Galilee. Back of Mag- dala rises the cliff of Kal'at-Iben Ma'an. The cavern be- neath was once the stronghold of robbers, dispossessed of their hiding place by Herod the Great. He let baskets of soldiers down over the cliff's, the only way in which the robbers could be reached. (Joseplms mentions the occur- rence.) Near the chain of hills east of the lake lies Kal'- at-el-Husn, where Josephus was wounded in the battle when Vespasian took the town, then knoAvn as Gamala (69 A. D.) Chorazin is also on the north side of the lake. Traces have been discovered of a paved road that led from here to Damascus. The dragoman pointed out a place across the lake where the swine ran down into the sea. August 16th. — At seven-thirty A. M. we left Ti- berias to cross the lake in a small steamer. It is half an (Note: There were some twenty soldiers in a third- class carriage, guarded by two officers, all being hand- cuffed ; they were conscripts being taken against their will to war. Just as we neared a tunnel in a rocky mountain, three of them jumped through a window and escaped. There was no little commotion when the guards discov- ered their escape, but it was too late — they will join the Druses, and will never be caught. Ten Months on the Wing. 107 hour's journey to Es-Semakh^ which is six hundred and ninety-nine feet below sea level. Here we took the train to Damascus. The railroad ascends to the plateau be- tween volcanic mountains, giving one an opportunity of studying the remarkable geological formations through which the stream, called the Wady Keleyt, has worn its way; huge masses of limestone and basalt, cut through perpendicularly and overflown with thick layers of lava, can be seen. This has been, and is still, a volcanic region. The stream is bordered with shrubs, among them the ole- ander, with its fragrant pink flowers, which lend a brighc- ness to an otherwise dreary landscape. The railway winds around the gorge, doubling back and forth, passing through several tunnels. Just before emerging onto the plateau we pass the fine cascade of ^NTahr El Badjeh; it tumbles down as much as a hundred feet from the plateau above. And a little farther on there is another waterfall almost as fine. On reaching the tableland of Bashan we soon come to Tell-esh-Shinab.* In 1901 an ancient stela was found here, inscribed to Seti I; and another such monument io Eameses II is shown at Sheikh Sad. At Dera'a there is a buffet, where lunch is served. An hour before reaching Damascus we begin to see green trees and fields, and soon the city bursts upon the sight. After the desolation of the country through which we have passed, it is really a refreshing view. Damascus has a population of almost forty thousand, has excellent tramways and is quite well lighted. We feel a sense of relief in getting out of Palestine. Damascus has a splen- did water system; the river Abana flows just under our window at the hotel. Grand Victoria. The river has a promenade on either side. (*Note: Some half mile from here there is a subter- ranean city, but travelers are not allowed to visit it. The entrance is through a very low door, hidden by a building.) 108 Ten Months on the Wing. Tonight the table was laden with delicious fruit : three varieties of peaches, two of grapes, two of apples and two of pears. This profusion of fruit reminds ono of California, U. S. A. However, it appears to be un- grafted, or from seedlings. There is a fine view of Mount Hermon from the hotel gallery. August 17th, Sunday. — Eested all day. August 18th. — We drove through part of the city, visiting the factory where they make inlaid work in wood and brass— one of the most interesting exhibits we have ever seen. Our American sloyd schools pale into insig- nificance in comparison. It is astonishing to see small boys and girls from the ages of four and five years up to mature men and women, all busily engaged in engraving, carving and inlaying the handsome wood and brass arti- cles, especially the children, mere babies, doing the most intricate designs; some designing their own patterns as they proceed with the work. One small girl was execut- ing a design on wood without drawing or tracing of any kind, and the work was quite accurate. I^ext door to the shop is the residence of the propri- etor. The interior has a patio, like houses in Old Mexico, with beautiful flowers and creepers ; in the center is a fountain. The drawing-room is fitted up in true Oriental style, the furniture all inlaid in mother-of-pearl, cande- labra of brass, inlaid in gold and silver, draperies in rich Persian stripes, while Persian rugs cover the floor. We went to the house of Ananias and the house where St. Paul escaped from the window, being let dov/n in a basket. It was on the old Eoman road leading from Da- mascus that he beheld the wondrous vision and heard the viiee sa^dng, "Saul, Saul, why persecutest thou me?" (Acts ix. 3-8.) Then to the tomb of St. George. We then drove down the "Street called straight." It is not actually straight, Ten Months on the Wing. 109 but all along its course traces have been found of the colonnade with which it was formerly adorned, for Da- mascus is one of the most ancient cities of the world. (Some claim the most ancient.) Josephus makes it older than Abraham, Other cities have arisen and decayed, bat Damascus has always remained an important city Next to Bagdad, it is the most Oriental of cities. It is men- tioned numerous times in the Scripture. It was conquer- ed by Tothmes III, 1600 B. C; occupied by Pompey 64 B. C. Its fame was mingled with that of Saladin and Ta- merlane. Its Bazaars are celebrated all over the world. The traveler finds it more difficult to know what not to buy than what to buy. Some think the Bazaars more imposing than those of Cairo, but we did not find ther.i any more interesting. Damascus is not so well built, nor are the streets in any way equal to those of Cairo. Very few of them are paved, and they are rougher than a country road at home. The street vendors of water (carried in pig-skins), ven- dors of lemonade and of raisin water, also licorice water, rattle a pair of brass cups and cry, "Oh ! cheer thine heart" or "God send trade'' — an amusing, but very dis- turbing noise v/lien one wishes to sleep. In all this, we are reminded of Cairo. In the afternoon we drove around through the Sad- dlers' Bazaar. Here one may buy anything in the way of accoutrements for horse, donkey or camel. Then we went up on the hill to get a comprehensive view of Damascus. The surrounding country is as ricli in verdure as Southern California. If only some enter- prising people were in control, it would soon be a second Los Angeles, August 19th. — Went to the Mosque of St. John the Baptist; to the ancient Church of the Crusaders; to the Tomb of Saladin; to the Silversmith's Bazaar and the Eufif Bazaar, 110 Ten M ontlis on the W ing . Tonight at dinner we had ten varieties of fruit — and then watermelon ! August 20th. — The train that carried ns to Ba'al- bek left Damascus at seven-thirty A. M. The first few miles the road lies through a narrow wady, or valley, be- tween barren hills of most peculiar formation, in the cliffs of which are numerous tombs. Then we pass into a glen of fresh green trees and clear running water. Every va- riety of fruit tree is seen growing in luxuriant profusion, the walnut predominating. After passing the village of Fijeh we arrive at the spring which is the principal source of the Abana river. The stream rushes full-grown from a cave, and after splashing over the rocks some eighty yards, it joins the Bai'ada and the two make one river, called by the Arabs the Barada. Proceeding on our journey, we pass over ledges of rocks and steep embankments, first on one side of the river, then on the other, until we reach Suk Wady-Barada, the ancient Abila referred to in Luke's gospel (iii. 1.) There is a Latin inscription on some of the stones to the effect that the road was restored by one Julius A'^erus, Legate of the Province of Syria, by orders of Marcus Are- lius Antonius, dated 161 A. D. Perched on the top of a high hill is the so-called Tomb of Abel. The road now runs through a glen until we reach the plains of Zebdani; this plain is well cultivated; silk cul- ture is quite extensive and there are many orchards of white mulberry. On our left are the snow-capped moun- tains of Lebanon and on the right the mountains of Anti- Lebanon. We stopped for lunch at Eeyek and changed cars for Ba'albek — Just one hour's ride from the lunch station. _ After an hour's rest, we drove over to the great ruins. If there were nothing else, one would be justified in cross- ing the Atlantic just to see Ba'albek. We thought that we had seen all the wonderful ruins, but there is nothino; Ten Months on the Wing. Ill in Eome or Greece that compares with this temple for magnitude and grace combined. It is a combination of the stupendous and the delicate; no pen or picture is ade- quate to describe it, and no tongue eloquent enough to convey to the mind any conception of its magnificence ; it must be seen to be appreciated. Three temples rose on the Acropolis — a Circular Temple, the Main or Grand Temple of Jupiter and a hand- some Temple of Bacchus. There was a grand stairway which led up to the Propaelae, or main entrance, one hundred and fifty feet wide. The facade of the Propae- lae was adorned with a splendid peristyle of twelve Cor- inthian columns. This led into a vast hexagonal court, surrounded by niches and columns. On either side were alternating exedrae in rectangular and circular forms, with niches for statues. From this court another grand stairway led to the sacrificial altar, while still another of equal grandeur led to the Holy of Holies, or real Temple of Jupiter. This is surrounded by fifty-four columns, seven feet in diameter, each seventy feet high without the capital and base, and each cut from one piece of stone. Above these stupendous columns was a frieze dec- orated with lions' heads, roses, acanthus leaves and other designs. The frieze is about six feet wide. On either end was an architrave of delicate workmanship. Six of these mighty columns still occupy one side of the ruins — silent witnesses of the vaulting ambition and heroic la- bors of past generations, in whose presence the labors of today appear puny and worthless. It humbles us to real- ize that with all our learning and science, the people of today are incapable of attaining to such perfection in architecture. The peculiar characteristics of this architec- ture are the combination of the immense and the grace- ful, of Cyclopean vastness with refined elegance; nowhere is the acanthus and rose work carved with more delicacy than on these gigantic blocks. The court is seventy feet long by eighty-five feet wide. The Temple of Jupiter is elevated twenty-four feet above the Grand Court, which 112 Ten Months on the Wing. is one hundred and fifty feet long by one hundred and twenty-five feet wide. Above the niches in the exedrae are shell domes and other remarkably ornate decorations. Here were placed the statues of the different gods; for some worshiped one god and some another, and the de- sire was to please all. On the left is the Tem^ple of Bacchus, which stands on a lower level and is still well preserved; it was surrounded, except on the east, by a magnificent colonnade, with arched roof; nineteen out of the forty-six columns which formerly adorned it still re- main, each sixty-five feet high and six feet three inches in diameter. The part of the roof intact is handsomely carved in geometrical designs; in the center is a god, and around this are four demi-gods. One of the columns has fallen against the cella, in which position it has remained for more than a century. The portal of the temple is probably the most interesting feature of the v/hole struc- ture. The door posts are monoliths, ornamented in rich designs of foliage and genii, as delicate as filigree. The lintel is of three stones; on the lower side is an eagle. Beside the portal, there is a spiral staircase, by means of which a journey may be made to the upper walls. All the masonry of the outer wall is prodigious in its dimen- sions; but the marvel of marvels is the western wall, where are three stones, perhaps the largest ever used in architecture. One stone measures sixty-four feet in length, another sixty-three feet eight inches and the third sixty-three feet. They are each thirteen feet high and thirteen feet wide, and are placed in the wall twenty feet above ground. How they were raised is a problem which science of today explains by the unlimited labor at com- mand and by the Eoman mechanical arrangement for distributing weight among a number of carriers; but how were they transported from the quarry There is still another partly-cut stone in the quarr}^, seventy-four feet long and thirteen by thirteen feet, left just as it was cen- turies ago. The view from the top comprehends the whole val- Ten Months on the W ing . 1 13 ley, with Mt. Lebanon on the right and Anti-Lebanon on the left. The Temple was first destroyed by the Arabs, and later a Christian Basilica was built in the center; this was again destroyed by the Moslems. All aronnd are heaps of broken columns and debris. Ba'albek is a town of 5,000 ; has a good water supply. The surrounding country grows some fruit, especially grapes. August 21st. — From Ba'albek we retrace oxw jour- ney to Eeyek, and there change ears for Beyrout. The railway crosses a valley Avhich is mostly planted to white mulberries, as silk is the most important industry from here to Beyrout. After some miles we begin to climb a steep ascent where it is necessary to have a cog rail in the center of the track; the climb is slow and tedious, but after reaching the summit, the view is quite fine and picturesque all the remainder of the way. The moun- tains are dotted, from base to crown, with villages where the people of Beyrout and surrounding environs have; summer homes and summer resorts. The railway is a switch-back; sometimes the locomotive was on one end, and sometimes on the other. We arrived at Beyrout and are stopping at Grand Hotel D'Orient. We find it warm and humid here. August 22nd. — Have been for a drive around the city, and to call on the family of our dragoman. There are some handsome homes on the higher elevations, but the streets are narrow and full of "chug holes" that make driving anything but enjoyable. Hov/ever, we find Syria a degree cleaner than Palestine. The people are better clothed, the towns not quite so filthy, and there are not so many beggars annoying one for "baksheesh." This afternoon we drove out to Dog Eiver, about eight miles from town. The monuments here date back to 1300 and 607 B. C. On the road, a place is pointed out as the spot v/here St. George killed the Dragon. (He 114 Ten Months on the Wing. must have killed two of them.) Nahr-ei-Kelb; or Dog Eiver, is named from a tradition that when a foe appear- ed a dog, hewn in the rock, gave^ the alarm by barking. The rock was thrown into the sea, but is still pointed out as "the Dog." The great interest of the spot, however, is the sculp- ture on the face of the rock cliff. Before reaching them, an inscription states that the rocky pass was cut by or- ders of Emperor Marcus Aurelius Antonius, here desig- nated Germanicus. The date fixed for the construction of the road is 176 and 180 A. D. The sculptures are nine in number, three Egyptian and six Assyrian. One of the former is dedicated to Phthah, the god of Memphis; an- other to Ea, the Sun god; the third records certain expe- ditions of Eameses II. The Assyrian sculptures are much defaced, but bear the names of Assur, Eisisi (1150 B. C), Tiglath Pileser, Shalmaneser and Sennacherib (703 B. G.) On the last is a low relief of Bsarhaddon, with em- blems of the planets beside the head and forty-nine lines of cuneiform writing across the body. A broken text of TsTebuchadnezzar was also found nearby. Dog Eiver furnishes the water supply of Bey rout. We stopped to get something to drink at a native house, and our hostess cracked nuts for me with her teeth! How- ever, she was ver}^ hospitable and kind. August 23kd. — Spent the day preparing for our ocean voyage back to Port Said. August 24th, Sunday. — On steamer Tewfekieh. "VVe sailed from Beyrout at ten-fifteen A. M, A calm day and a smooth sea, we passed Sidon and Tyre and stopped at Haifa about five P. M. ; took on and delivered cargo ; were there until ten P. M. August 25th. — Still calm and warm; reached Jafl'a at seven A. M. and stayed until five P. M. Here Kalil, Ten Months, on the Wing. 115 our dragoman, left us. We regret losing him, as we had grown attached to him in a measure. There was an exciting time when we sailed; the ship had gone about two miles from shore ; the officers were collecting the tickets in the steerage. When they asked one young man for his ticket, he suddenly became insane, and tearing off his clothing, plunged overboard ; the alarm was sounded and a boat that was nearing shore turned back and attempted to take him in, but he fought them off; finally he was overcome and dragged in, only to plunge over again; a second struggle ensued and he was captured and brought back, with a wound in his leg; it was with great difficulty that he was finally restrained from Jumping out of the boat the third time. He ke])t crying that he wanted to return to Jaffa, and only ceased struggling when his clothes were thrown into the boat and he was permitted to return. His face showed him to be temporarily insane. August 26th. — Arrived at Port Said at seven A. M., but on account of quarantine regulations, were not per- mitted to land until ten o'clock. Spent the day at the Eastern Exchange Hotel. August 27th. — We have been passing through the Suez Canal all day. The boats are required to proceed very slowly, as the water is shallow in places and, too, the waves cut the embankment if the ships go too fast — it will take all night to get through. August 28th. — Got into the Eed Sea about nine A. M. August 29th. — I feel quite ill; had a temperature of 104 for thirty-six hours, but think I shall soon be all right. Got a germ in Palestine, I suppose. August 30th. — Still in bed. 116 Ten Months on the Wing. August 31st. — We passed out of the Eed Sea this morning; stopped at Aden four hours. Septembee 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th. — Just loafed, trying to regain my strength. Septembee 5th.— Arrived at Bombay at six A. M. Disembarked about eight o'clock, and are at Hotel Taj Mahal — a fine hotel, and very cool. Septembee 6th. — Drove to the Tower of Silence, a Parsee temple of" the dead. Formerly people were allow- ed to see the buzzards devouring the bodies, but now they are only seen from a distance. There are several towers, some belonging to private families, and one especially built for suicides. The tower is a circular building, con- taining three rows of slats (also circular in construction), one row for men, one for women and one for children. These slats have grooves made in them, to carry off the liquid. The bodies are laid on top of these slats and left for the buzzards to devour all the flesh; this takes about two hours. Every few days men go in and rake off the bones into a pit, where they remain until decom- posed. During the monsoon season, the water carries the bone dust off through trenches and pits filled witii charcoal, and it is thus filtered before being absorbed by the earth. Hundreds of buzzards sit around waiting for their gruesome food, which is brought in from three to as high as six times a day, and much more often when there is a famine or a plague. The grounds are very beau- tiful, containing every kind of tree and flower adapted to the tropics. Bombay is a handsome city, well laid out and well- kept. There are some fine public buildings and love\y residences; broad boulevards bordered by splendid trees; numerous banyans and mangoes. There are lovely gar- dens and parks. The rich coloring of the foliage and the many beautiful flowering shrubs and plants make a gor- Ten M ontlis on the W ing . 117 geous picture. Every known variety of coleus grows here in luxuriant profusion, the roads and streets being hedg- ed with them. Flowering vines ranging in colors of yel- low, red, pink, blue and white, cover the trunks of trees and buildings in riotous profusion. We are not suffering from the heat as we anticipated. The monsoon blows every day, and the rain pours down in heavy sheets for a short time; then the sun comes out. September 7th. — Hunted up Thomas Cook & Sons in the forenoon. Had letters from home; how good they seem, and how they bring distant friends quite near! September 9th. — We went to the Caves of Ele- phanta, six miles from Bombay, by boat. We passed numerous islands in the harbor. Landed on one of these islands and walked something over a mile by a path through tropical forests. My ! but it was hot ! There are five caves in all, carved out of solid rock. These were hewn by Hindus as a temple to their gods. From the front entrance to the rear is one hundred and thirty feet, and about the same in width. The chief of the mural fig- ures is the immense three-faced god, nineteen feet high. It represents Shiva, who is the principal figure in all the groups of the caves. The front face is Brahma, the Cre- ator; the face on the left is Shiva, in the character of Rudra, the Destroyer; the face on the right is Vishnu, the Preserver, holding a lotus flower in his hand. Be- sides these are Elephanta and the Monkey gods. Therci are a dozen or more of these groups. The roof is support- ed by great pillars carved out of the rock. The Portuguese thought to do away with idolatry by destroying the gods, and turned their cannon on them, breaking many of the figures. Just as the boat reached the pier on our return m^o met a procession carrying hundreds of images of Vishnu, the Elephant God, made of clay and highly colored, whicli they were taking out to sink in the waters of the harbor. 118 Ten Months on the Wing. this being the feast-time of that particular god. It will last three days, and each day more images will be given to the Water God. They made a most distracting noise with drums, horns, tambourines and fifes. As we entered the city they were dancing. The dance is quite similar to the Indian Fire Dance at home, the j)erformers scream- ing and jumping and clapping their hands. The story of the god, Elephanta, is that his father went away and left his wife and young son. He remained away until the boy was grown to manhood. One day the father returned; the young man was standing guard while his mother took her bath ; the father seeing him there, and not recognizing him as his son, thought him intruding on the privacy of his wife, and cut his head off. The mother rushed out and told her husband that he had slain their beautiful son; whereat he was greatly distressed and rail into the forest to get a head to replace the one he had cut off. The first thing he saw was an elephant; he cut off its head and placed it on the body of his son, where it grew. Thus the son was forced ever after to wear an elephant head. All the images had these heads. The ob- ject of the story is to teach filial devotion, and for this reason Elephanta is one of the most popular of the num- erous gods. We have engaged a "traveling boy" to take us through India. No one attempts to travel without a servant here. He looks out for your bedding, sees to paying tips to the luggage coolies, attends to buying drinks (for one is not safe in drinking the water here, any more than in in Pal- estine) ; in fact, we have had to buy drinking water ever since leaving Eome — all through Greece, Egypt and tlie Holy Land, and it is a very expensive part of one's re- quirements. In fact, the "boy" is your body servant and general factotum. Cook's recommended this particular man to us, and he appears to be trustworthy and humble. His name is Hafiz Abdul Eahman, a Mohammedan. He wears white cotton trousers, a long white coat cut some- thing like a Prince Albert, a turban of white and blue Ten Months on the Wing. 1 19 cotton twisted in heavy rolls around his head. He calls us the Master and Mistress. In addressing us he says, "Will your honor do so and so ;" He comes in and takes off our shoes, polishes them, and puts them on again; fixes our bath, et cetera. September 11th. — Left Bombay at nine-thirty P. M. Traveled all night. We have to furnish our own bedding on the train; otherwise they are very convenient. We changed cars at eight-thirty A. M. and took a nar- row-gauge, reaching Abu Eoad Station about two-fifteen P. M. Here we took a tonga and drove eighteen miles up the mountain to Mt. Abu. A tonga is a two-wheeled cart with two seats, one facing the horses, the other fac- ing backwards. The driver and Hafiz sat on the front seat and J. and I occupied the back seat. As there are no springs, and the sun poured its fiery rays down on o^ur poor feet, we did not enjoy the long ride as much as we should in a "Velie" auto. The covering of the tonga is usually a piece of matting, or tarpaulin, hung over a frame; it keeps out the sun and air alike. All along the railway we saw bands of monkeys. In one place there were eighteen or twenty in one field. We passed them on the way up the mountain also; they are not afraid of people, but sit and look at one with comical curiosity. We saw some very large birds, resem- bling cranes, with red heads. The topography of the country through which we passed before reaching the foot of the mountains was a rather level valley land, dotted with trees, and some cultivated land. It had the appear- ance of being very fertile. We saw many handsome coun- try homes. The road is one of the most scenic we have ever traveled, winding round and round the mountain; over- hung by trees. The upper side of the road is banked with ferns; on the lower is a steep precipice and a deep gorge overgrown with a tangled mass of tropical verdure. Mountains rise on every side, covered to the summit With 120 Ten Months on the Wing. fine forests; clear rivulets of water pour down over fan- tastically shaped rocks, reminding one of the Garden of the Gods in Colorado. We arrived at Hotel Eajputana at five o'clock. With- out stopping to rest, took two jinrikishas and with two men to pull and one to j)ush each, we rode about one and a half miles to the beautiful Jain Temple of Dalwarra, nine hundred years old. This is built of pure white mar- ble, carved like lace in all manner of flowers, gods and animals. Some two hundred years were consumed in its building. At this day no one can be found to repair the carving. With few exceptions it is in an excellent state of preservation. There are a hundred or more gods the size of a grown man — these have glass eyes. There are numerous elephants and one horse, on which is seated a god. But it is the columns^ arches and ceilings that are such marvels of sculpture. Delwarra is one of the finest temples of India. Abu is picturesquely situated high up amidst the mountain peaks and surrounded by great boulders as large themselves as small mountains. These have been carved out by the waters in ages past into grotesque forms. September 12th. — It is so cold we had to sleep un- der two blankets last night. Left Abu at ten A. M. Drove down in the tonga to Abu Station, arriving at twelve o'clock. Left by train at one-thirty-eight P. ML The road passes through a valley with high mountains on either side until near sundown, when the valley broadens out and the road runs througli a broad, level plain until we reach Jaipur. September 13th, — Arrivel at Hotel Jaipur at ten o'clock. After a late breakfast we drove to the Albert Memorial Museum and the Zoological Gardens. The mu- seum contains much that is interesting in the way of In- dian applied arts — brass, gold and silver articles, porcelain ware, ivory and tortoise-shell ornaments. The tigers and Ten Months on the ^Y ing . 121 monkeys in the zoo are fine specimens. This being their native heath, they are healthy. We then drove to the Walled City and visited the factory, where we saw small hoys from the ages of nine to fourteen weaving the most beautiful carpets (such as we call Axminster and velvet brussels), while a man at the back of the rug called out the color design. We shall always appreciate our rugs more after this. The mana- ger .said that the children worked only half a day. They also manufacture choice articles in brass, gold and silver. The Citadel is surrounded by a high crenelated wall, entered by seven gates. It is called the "pink city," from, the fact that every building and the whole wall is painted rose-color, picked out in white. The city is well laid out and clean. From here v/e went to the Observatory. This is the most unique astronomical instrument in the world, de- signed by the celebrated royal astronomer, Maharaja Jai Singh. It is in an open court yard, full of fantastic in- struments built by him. The instrument was construct- ed between 1718 and 1734 A. D. It indiciates the exact position of the heavenly bodies at every hour and minute of the day, and also shows the exact time. It contains the twelve signs of the zodiac. A curious and wonderful invention ! The Palace of the Wind, built by Madhe Singh I, is a fantastic and elaborate building decorated with stucco, overlooking the main thoroughfare. It is nearly all win- dows. The Maharaja constructed it in order that his wife might watch the procession of the great feast Avhieli occurs once a year. Women are not allowed to appear in public or show their faces outside their homes. In ac- cordance with this rule, many of the houses are built with latticed windows, so that the women may observe without being observed themselves. Jaipur is chiefly a Hindu city. They worship Brah- ma, the Creator, and Shiva, the Destroyer. The dead are 122 Ten Months on the Wing. cremated; if possible, they are carried to Benares before death, in order to be near the Holy Eiver, or Ganges. Sarisvati, the wife of Brahma, rides on a peacock throne and carries a musical instrument; she is the god- dess of music, speech, the arts and literature. The sin of lying is readily expiated by an offering to her. The wife of Vishnu is Lakshmi — she rides a snake. Shesh represents Eternity; he is said to have come down to earth nine times. These reincarnations were as a fish, a tortoise, a boar, a man-lion, a dwarf, Buddha, and so on. Shiva is also called Mahadeva; his wife has several dif- ferent names. After tiffin, we drove to the palace of the present Maharaja. The grounds cover seventy-one acres and are half a mile long, the whole being surrounded by a higli wall. The Chandra Mahal, which forms the center of the great palace, is a lofty building of seven stories overlook- ing the lovely garden. On the ground floor is the Diwan- i-Kaas, or private audience chamber— remarkable even in India for its noble simplicity. To the left are the apart- ments of the Maharaja. The grounds are adorned with numerous fountains, fine trees and flowers and a pretty fernery. Here, by turning certain valves, the water pour^ down like a spring shower over the plants. In an adjoin- ing garden is the large tank where are kept the sacred crocodiles. They were fed for our benefit. Two of the hideous monsters got into a fight and in their fury lash- ed the water into foam. A fortnight since, a coolie was washing his feet in the tank, when one of the crocodiles slipped up and grabbed him, pulling him into the water, while the others helped to devour him before help arrived. September 14th. — Drove five miles and then rode two miles on an elephant to the Amber Palace. We were accompanied by a young lady from Spokane, Washington. Eiding an elephant is worse than riding in a tonga. He kneels down for you to mount, and then it is still necessary to have a ladder to reach the saddle. There Ten Months, on the Wing. 123 were four of ws, with the guide; the saddle began to turn, and we feared we were going over every time he took a step. The driver sits on his neck and punches him in the head with a sharp iron spike — this to guide him. The guide said this animal Avas only seventy years old — quite a colt ! Amber Palace was built by Mimnas, in the tenth cen- tury. It is a grand pile of architecture, but is spoiled by having stucco laid over the marble. It is said that its beauty was such that it excited the envy of Jahangir, the Governor of Delhi^ and in order to preserve it from de- struction the Maharaja covered it with stucco. The ceil- ings are made of inlaid work, spangled with tiny mirrors, which cause it to scintillate and glisten like precious stones. In the Diwan-i-Am, a small temple, a goat is sacri- ficed every morning as a su,bstitute for the daily human sacrifice of prehistoric times. The sacrifice was just fin- ished when we arrived. From the northeast balcony a fine view is obtained of the town of Amber and the surrounding mountains and valleys. Amber was the capital of the district until 172S, when Jaipur was founded. There are thousands of doves at Jaipur and thousands of peafowls. There is a heavy penalty for killing the lat- ter, as they are held sacred — seven years' imprisonment is the price. Left Jaipur at twelve-thirty-five A. M. Arrived at Delhi this morning at eight o'clock. September 15th. — Maiden's Hotel. — This morning we went to the Fort, with its fine arcades and courts, and then to the Jama Masjid Mosque. This is one of the few mosques in India designed to produce a pleasing effect ex- ternally. It is adorned with noble minarets one hundred and thirty feet high; the mosque is two hundred feet long- and ninety feet wide ; built in 1658 A. D. It is construct- ed of red sandstone and white marble. The three white 124 Te7i Months on the Wi^ig. marble domes are relieved by vertical lines of black mar- ble; the floor is of white marble, outlined in black. At the northeast corner of the court is a pavilion in which are placed the relics of the Prophet Mohammed. A dirty, greasy man with a filthy rag wrapped around the lower part of his body, the upper part being entirely naked, showed us what is purported to be one hair from the beard of the Prophet; also a print of his foot on a stone and a chapter of the Koran written by his son-in-law. When J. offered him two annas (two cents), he drew his hand back in disgust and said he was a High Priest and could accept nothing less than one rupee (thirty-three cents.) The approach to the mosque is by three splendid gateways and a grand flight of steps. Going out, we pass- ed the magazine where, during the Mutiny, Lieutenant Willoughby made his desperate attempt to hold the place until aid arrived. When defense was no longer possible, he blew up the magazine and escaped to the Kashmere Gate. Life in India is entirely different from anything we have encountered elsewhere. Our "boy" brings us choto hazri at six A. M. (consisting of fruit, coffee or tea and biscuits) ; we then take our bath and dress. By that time the carriage has arrived and we go sightseeing. At nine o'clock we breakfast; then rest until one-thirty, when we have tiffin. At four- thirty the carriage comes to take us out again; we return in time for eight o'clock dinner. We have to be fanned every minute we are in our room. At the large hotels on the coast they have electric fans, but we do not like to sleep under them as well as under the punka, as one is so much more liable to take cold from the fans. The punka is typically Indian. It is made of a piece of matting fastened to a frame which reaches al- most across the room. Over tliis are spread several thick- nesses of heavy cloth; the whole is suspended from the ceiling just over the two single beds; through a hole in the wall a cord is drawn, and this is pulled back and forth Ten Months on the Wing. 125 by a coolie who sits on the floor outside the door; when one gets tired, another coolie relieves him. They keep it going all night, and charge one rupee — this to be divided among several. They are very anxious for the job, so one does not feel that he is working a hardship on them. If they fall asleep and the punka stops, one immediately awakens (for the heat is unbearable) ; then a shoe or something convenient must be thrown at them, when t punka begins to move directly. After tiffin we drove to the Fort and went inside to the magnificent palace of the Moghul, Emperor of Delhi. The Lahore Gate and the vaulted arcade are said to be the noblest entrance to any palace known. From here, we enter a large court five hundred and forty by fou.r hundred and twenty feet; on the further side is the Di- wan-i-Am, or public audience hall, with a place for Mo- hammedans on one side and for Hindus on the other. The engrailed arches are extremely beautiful. They are of red sandstone, formerly covered with brilliant chunam. At the back is a raised recess where the Emperor used to be seated on the Peacock Throne; (this was carried oil by the Persians, and is now used by the Emperor of Per- sia.) Below is the marble seat of the Wazir, and above are inlaid panels of white marble. A gate on the north led to the innermost court of the palace, called the Diwan- i-Khas, or private audience hall, considered to be one of the most graceful buildings in the world. The arches and ceiling were done in pure silver, overlaid with gold leaf. The columns were delicately carved and set in precious stones. Almost all of these were carried of? by the Per- sian invaders. The hall measures ninety by sixty-seven feet and is constructed wholly of white marble; no wood of any kind being used. Over the outer arches is the fa- mous Persian inscription, "If Heaven can be on the face of the earth. It is this. Oh, it is this! Oh, it is this!" Through the center runs a marble channel, which was inlaid in gold and silver to represent waves as the water rippled over it. At the left was a lattice grill of carved 126 Ten Months on the Wing. ivory, which shielded the Queen from view and allowed her to witness the entertainments. It was here that the famous Peacock Throne stood; two large birds occupied the space, one on either side, their tails forming a back- ground for the seat of the Emperor. The tails were or- namented in masses of precious stones. In the royal apartments are handsome marble bath- rooms, the floors, walls and ceilings all of white marble, carved and inlaid. Here the women of the harem were massaged and rubbed with perfume and powder. Opposite to this is the Moti Masjid, or Pearl Mosque, built by Aurangzeb for his favorite wife — a beautiful Hin- du, converted to Mohammedanism to please her lord and master. The walls are decorated in low relief and, like the rest of this earthly paradise, are of marble. There are many other apartments and a small museum in con- nection, in which are kept the royal relics. On our return we drove through Queen's Garden and the Kudsia Garden, both very attractive, with many tropi- cal trees and flowers. Septembee 16TI-I. — After tiffin we drove to the mon- ument erected by the comrades of the soldiers who fell in the summer of 1857. From the ridge a fine view is ob- tained of the city. When we go out in a carriage we have a boy who runs ahead and shouts at the people to get out of the A? ay. We drove through several fine parks, and then to the Jain Temple. We have to remove our shoes or put slip- pers on over them. The High Priest had on nothing ])ut a "gee string." The costumes of some of the natives are unique, to say the least. Our driver today Avore a long shirt outside his drawers, and over this a pink silk vest with a flowered fi'ont. They love bright colors, and to see the people after five o'clock on the street is to see a perfect riot of colors, and is an attractive picture, indeed. Our baths are zinc or earthen tubs like washtubs. Ten Months on the W ing . 127 One stands in them and pours the water over the body with a large tin cup; a coolie brings the water in a pig- skin twice a day, for one wants to bathe night and morn- ing in this heat. The people love to travel, and as a third-class ticket costs only one-third of a cent per mile, the trains are crowded with low-caste people. They fight and knock one another over the heads in their squabble for seats. The different castes fight over who shall have the choicest places. Of course, they will not sit together; are often divided by a mere string, but that apparently satisfies their consciences. September 17th. — We left Delhi at eight A, M. and arrived at Hotel Laurie, in Agra, a little after eleven o'clock. At four we drove to the Taj Mahal. We were not disappointed in it. It is even more beautiful than we had conceived it to be — a symphony in marble; the soul of lyric poetry; satisfying to all the senses in its incom- parable majesty; created by the love of a woman. Love is the creator and instigator of all that is worth while. God is Love, and Love is all; the same that "gilds the clouds and greens the April sod.'' Wlien dying, a pris- oner in the hands of his ungrateful son, the last request of Shah Jahan was that he might be carried out to the Jasmine Palace, where the last thing his eyes rested on would be the tomb of his Beloved. We went back to view the Taj by moonlight, when its beauty is further enhanced, and it seemed even more like a vision of the temple, "not made by hands, eternal in the heavens.'' It is said that twenty thousand men were employed in its construction. The most prominent among the.m were the Italian artists. It was twenty-two years in build- ing and cost 18,465,186 rupees (over six million dollars.) Originally there were two silver doors at the entrance, but these were taken away and melted by Suraj Mai and his 128 Ten Months on the Wing. Jats. The people named it the Taj bibi ka Eoza, or "Crown Ladies' Tomb." It was begun in 1040. September 18th. — Arose early and drove to the Fort and the Moti Mas j id of Shah Jahan — a splendid conception in architecture, almost equal to the Pearl Mosque at Delhi; white marble, inlaid in precious stones. Near by is the red sandstone palace of his wife. He also had a Christian wife, but his favorite was Arjmand Banu, entitled Murataz-i-Mahal, or Pride of the Palace. She was a daughter of Araf Khan, who was a brother of Nur jahan, the famous wife of Jahan jir. Their father was a Persian. She had seven children and died at Bur- hanpur in Deccan. The palace of the Hindu wife is call- ed Jahanjir Mahal. The luxury and elegance of these palaces and mosques of the Moghul Emperors is far be- yond any of modern royalty, causing the latter to appear even commonplace. Agra, like Delhi, is a city of parks and shady ave- nues, showing the influence of the English. Both cities are situated on the river Jumma. September 19th. — We left Agra at three-thirty P. M. Arrived at Cawnpore at six-thirty A. M. We immediately hired a carriage and drove to the Memorial Well. The well is surmounted by a beautiful marble angel, enclosed in a Gothic screen; this surrounded by a fine park. During the Mutin}'', in this well were thrown the bodies of two hundred and ten English wo- men and children, dead and dying. No native is allowed inside the screen and only a few coolies who care for the grounds are allov^^ed inside the park. Not even Eoyal na- tives can enter without a pass, and they are not permitted inside the screen. A few steps to the left of the well stood the bunga- low of two rooms, each ten by twenty feet, in which these women and children were confined for a month. On the 15th of July, 1857, when Nana Sahib heard that the Ten Months on the W ing . 139 English were advancing, he ordered his soldiers to shoot the women and children, but being less heartless than he, the soldiers fired at the ceiling. The Shah then sent out and employed a great number of murderers to do the atro- cious business. They spent the whole night between the 15th and 16th in cutting the throats and otherwise de- bauching their victims. One can imagine the excruciat- ing suffering of the poor victims as they witnessed the slaughter of their loved ones and friends. Near the well is a tree on which two hundred and fifty of the mutineers were hanged by the English. Some of the leaders were tied to the mouths of cannon and blown to pieces. Returning to the Station^ we breakfasted and then went to the Memorial Church. Left Cawnpore at twelve-forty-five P. M. and were in Lueknow by three-fifteen. Hotel Imperial. September 30th. — Had choto hazri at an early hour, then drove to the English Eesidency, where an Eng- lish soldier showed us through and related the story of the siege, which lasted eighty-seven days. There were in all about seven thousand men garrisoned here, but the native desertions reduced the force nine hundred; one hundred and fifty volunteers, seven hundred native troops, six hundred women and children, seven hundred non-cobmatant natives. This small handful held back an army of forty thousand, although almost at the point of starvation and many ill and dying from cholera, small- pox and wounds — they having had no medicine. There was not a minute of the time that they were not under the continual fire from the guns of the enemy. The Eng- lish had few guns and scarcely any ammunition ; but they (Note) A few days since, there was a riot here between British soldiers and Moslems over the removal of a part of a mosque, to make room for a new tram- way. About eight hundred Moslems were killed. 130 Ten Months on the Wing. had courage and determination. Out of one room alone four hundred and thirty cannon balls were taken. When General Havelock came to their relief, on the 25th of Sep- tember, he found them reduced to one-half their original number. The siege was not ended until the arrival of Sir Colin Campbell, on November 10th. Each soldier in the garrison was reduced by this time to two ounces of food per day. Sir Henry Lawrence had died from wounds inflicted by a shell. His grave, in the cemetery enclosed by an iron rail, bears the well-known inscription, "Hero lies Henry Lawrence, who tried to do his duty. May the Lord have mercy on his soul," placed there by his request. In the grave are several of his comrades-in-arms, it being his desire that he might be buried with some of his sol- diers. When the siege was raised, the English women who came to the relief of their sisters state that so rotten were their garments that they fell off when touched. Lucknow is even prettier than Delhi and Agra. It is situated on the river Gumti and laid out in immense parks and broad streets lined with trees. The Englisih quarter of the city is very clean. Strange to say, there are few flies in the English quarters; perhaps 'tis because they find sufficient food in the native quarters. The droppings of the cattle and horses are carefully gathered up by the native women and children, made into cakes or small balls and pasted up on the sides of the houses to dry, then taken to market and sold to the agriculturists for fertilizer. Instead of screens, we have light matting at the doors and windows. There are two kinds of cattle here — the cream-col- ored sacred cow, with a hump, and the blue or gray-col- ored water buffalo. The latter gets into the water p.t every opportunity; all you can see of him is the top of his head. Both kinds of cattle are used for dairy pur- poses. At four o'clock we drove to the great Imambarah Mosque. The court has a fine gateway. The two tall minarets surmount the mosque. The great hall is one Ten Months on the Wing. 131 hundred and sixty-three by forty-nine feet, one of the largest vaulted halls in the world. It has a quantity of tawdry furnishings. At the end of the roadway is another fine gateway — the Eumi Darwazah. A thousand yards beyond is the Husinabad Imambarah, built by Ali Shah as a tomb for himself. It stands in a large quadrangle and has a mar- ble reservoir for water. On our return we passed the Clock Tower and through the Kaisar Bagh, a splendid park; then through the na- tive quarters, where are the bazaars and where one sees Indian life as it really is. The flies are like a continual swarm of bees. The bazaars are about seven by five feet : each one has a certain kind of article for sale. Above arc rooms of like dimensions, occupied by the families. They are like rat holes, and as the Hindu is opposed to taking life, every kind of vermin exists by the thousands — rats, mice, squirrels, snakes; also monkej^s, hyenas, tigers, ec cetera. The Mohammedan women are carried about in pa- lanquins, or "dhoolies," in order that the men may not see them; all that is visible is a bare foot now and then. I cannot see what there is to make the men wish to be- hold the majority of them. To the eyes of one from the Occident, they are anything but attractive. They all dec- orate their ankles an^I toes with anklets and rings, their arms with bracelets, their noses with gold or silver but- tons or large hoop rings. Even tiny babes are ornamented thus. The female children have their eyelids painted with something to make them look dark. We are told that it is so painful that they cry for forty-eight hours after it is applied, and in the end it causes blindness. The ears are pierced at top and lobe and large rings are worn, which often pull through the flesh. Their teeth are dyed with betel nut to make them black. One often sees wo- men with little on except rags, but never without numer- ous bracelets and anklets; some men wear them also. 132 Ten Months on the Wing. September 21st. — Left Lucknow at nine-thirty A. M. — reached Benares at three P. M. Hotel de Paris. A very hot ride at this season of the year. It is time for cool weather now, but the monsoons were so slight this summer in this part of India that the hot weather holds over longer than usual. September 22xd. — At five o'clock A. Ml we went down the Ganges on a house-boat to see the people wor- shiping the river and to visit the different Ghats, or wharfs. The last fifteen days has been the Hindu festi- val season — the time when people send food and drink to the spirits of their fathers and mothers. This is done by having the priest bless some bunches of grass, pour water over it, then dip it in the river while a prayer is offered up; all the while the worshiper is bowing to the rising sun. The grass is then sent down the river on its way to Paradise. Other offerings were flowers, milk and flour. The priest was making the Sign of God on the foreheads of many. This is a spot of red paint, or several stripes of white powder. This also indicates the caste to whicli one belongs. There were a thousand or more in the wa- ter, praying, dipping themselves and drinking. At the Smashan Ghat, which is used as a crematorv, we saw a body laid on the funeral pyre ready to be burned. It was wrapped in white, this indiciating a male: the women are always wrapped in red. We did not care to remain for the cremation. On our return, we met four men carrying, on a litter made of bamboo, the body of a woman wrapped in red. They were taking her to the ghat to be cremated. There are about two dozen ghats, with temples built near them, where the priests beat drums and ring bells, repeating the name of some of the numerous gods. There is such a confusion of gods, and such a similarity between the different creeds, that it would puzzle one's brain to at- tempt to classify them. We returned by the Golden Temple ; it is connected Ten Months on the Wing. 133 with a Jain Temple; has two domes covered with gold leal The Jain section is of red brick. The temple is dedicated to Shiva. The entrance has a finely wrought brass door. In the quadrangle is the Well of Knowledge, where, according to Hindu tradition, the emblem of Shiva took refuge when the original temple was destroyed. The well is covered with a stone canopy, and an excited crowd is always congregated here. Formerly they threw offer- ings of flowers into the well, but this is now forbidden by the government. The Hindus believe the Ganges flows from a fabu- lous lake in the Himalayan Mountains, near Kailas, or Shiva Heaven. At four o'clock we went to visit Sarnath, the site of old Benares, where Buddha first taught. Sarnath means "Deer King," a name given to Buddha on account of his fondness for this animal. About three miles out^ on the left of the road, is a very ancient Tope, said to date back to 500 B. C. The building consists of a stone basement ninety feet in diam- eter, solidly built, the stones being clamped together with iron to the height of forty-three feet; above this, for one hundred and ten feet is solid brick work, there being no chambers of any sort. Externally, the lower part is re- lieved by eight projecting faces, each twenty-one feet six inches v/ide and fifteen feet apart. The niches were in- tended to contain seated figures of Buddha. Below is a band of sculpture encircling the monument. On the side near Sarnath the sculpture is Greek in style and probably dates from 1017 A. D. At Sarnath there are extensive ruins of an old monastery recently excavated by General Cunningham. Many relics were found, and are placed on exhibition in a museum erected on the spot six years ago. Near by is a large Stupa, or Tope, built by Buddha, re- cently restored. September 23rd. — Had an early choto hazri and went before breakfast to visit the Palace of the Maharaja 134 Ten Months on the Wing. and the Monkey Temple. The Hindus worship the mon- key and other animals; believing in the transmigration of the soul, they think one of the gods entered a monke.i. (Miss Besant has a large School of Theosophy here.) The Hindus also worship trees, among them the pipal, the banyan and several the name of which I have forgotten. It was under the banyan that Shiva was incarnated. \ good feature of Hindu religion is the teaching that if one lives uprightl}^ and practices self-control, the soul ceases to migrate and one is permanently happy in Nirvana. September 24th. — ^Left Benares at two-forty P. M. Arrived at Calcutta at six-thirty A. M. Shortly after leaving Benares the road passes through miles of paddy fields, rice being the chief article of commerce here.. We are stopping at the Grand Hotel. Had letters from home; they are like finding diamonds to us. Septembee 25th. — Went for an early drive through the city. Calcutta is much warmer than was Bombay, when we were there. The population of Calcutta is near- ly one million; Bombay claims nine hundred thousand. Left Calcutta at five-thirty; traveled for almost three, hours, or until eight-fifteen P. M., when we reached Dar- mudkia Station, where we crossed the Ganges to Sara Ghat. (Calcutta is on the Hoogli, a branch of the Gan- ges.) We dined on board and took the train again at Sara Ghat. The country from Calcutta to this point is swampv and mostly planted to rice and jute. The native huts are constructed of bamboo, with thatched roofs. Arrived at Silliguri about six-forty A. M. Had choto hazri. Changed to a narrow-gauge road to go up the mountain. The cars look like toys, they are so small ; and the locomotive is of a peculiar build — small, but very powerful. It puffed and blew most prodigiously on the steep grades. The Himalayas rise abruptly from the plains, with- Ten Months o n t li e W i n g . 135 out foothills, like those at home. The railway climhs up a switch-back road, making many loops (hut without tun- nels) through a virgin forest as dense as a Jungle. I recognized miany trees and vines familiar to my child- hood in Nicaragua, but whose names are now forgotten. The trunks of the trees are covered with moss, orchids and ferns to thirty feet above ground. A tangle of flow- ering vines festoon the roadway and great clumps of ferns three and four feet long bank the sides. Being inordi- nately fond of nature, we have as many, or even more "emotions" than Samantha had when she went into old Miss Burns' room at Dumfries. The scenery is wonderful ; we have not enjoyed anything so much since leaving Nor- way; of course, this is entirely difi^erent. The luxuriant growth extends to the summit of the mountains, except where it has been cleared off for tea farms. They occupy the slopes in many places, and we are told the tea is con- sidered the finest in the world. The natives have an en- tirely different cast of features from those in the lower country; they are mixed with Mongolians. This is called the Eoof of the World; and one imagines it is so in real- ity, when one finds one's self miles above the clouds, gaz- ing down into them.. It has the appearance of a bottom- less abyss; and still the elevation is not high at Darjeel- ing (7,401 feet) in comparison with average mountains at home. It is being so near the sea, and rising up so abruptly from the plain, that gives them the appearance of such great height. Of course, Mt. Everest really is the highest known mountain in the world. The temperature here is about fifty-eight degrees at night, and very re- freshing after Calcutta. It rains a great deal and there are few days when one can get a clear view of the sur- rounding mountains. They rise up all around us and. when the weather permits, one gets an extensive view of an hundred miles or more of the level plain and the num- erous rivers. We arrived at Darjeeling at twelve-fifty and were drawn up the hill to the hotel in a jinrikisha. Woodland 136 Ten M onths on t h e Wing. Hotel is a quaint place, not unlike the Bright Angel at the Grand Canyon. September 26th. — We find it so cool as to require a little fire, both morning and evening. We walked to Observatory Hill this afternoon. There is a fine park, and on the top of the hill is a Hindu shrino composed of long poles hung with different colored rags. It looks more like a child's playhouse than anything else. September 27th. — We are resting up from our strenuous sight-seeing. One gets weary, both mentally and physically, when seeing so much each day that is new and wonderful. September 28th. — Went for a long climb up the mountain. I got very tired and Hafiz — the guide — want- ed me to get on his back and let him carry me down. Would not that be trying to one of my dignity? September 29th. — Made some kodaks today, the first time the sun has shown sufficiently to take them. The Maharaja of Bengal is at the hotel with his fam- ily and a retinue of servants. Also the Dutch Consul and his wife and some pleasant English people. This is the Buddha Christmas-time, and everybody takes a vacation for a fortnight. September 30th. — -The Governor of Manila is here today. He has resigned, and is going home. October 1st. — Left Darjeeling at two P. M. Ar- rived at Calcutta at one A. M., October 2nd. October 2nd. — Hotel Great Eastern. — Calcutta is even hotter than when we were here a week ago. October 3rd. — Spent the day trying to keep cool. Ten Months on the W ing . 137 October 4th. — Met some Americans from New York. They have employed our Boy as traveling servant, to go with them through India. We hate to part with him, but he would do us no good in Burma. October 5th. — Sailed from Calcutta at seven A. M. on the steamship Arancola. We go down the river Hoogli for a hundred miles before we reach the open sea. October 6th. — Have had a pleasant voyage thus far. We had an impromptu concert tonight; tried our best to sing, but only succeeded in making a big noise — still it made a jolly time for all concerned. October 7th. — Arrived at Rangoon ten A. M. — Boyal Hotel. . October 8th. — Went for a walk this morning. After tiffin we drove to the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, the most venerable and finest pagoda of Burma. Its peculiar sanctity is due to the fact that it is the only known pa- goda which is credited with the actual relics, not only of Guatama, but the three Buddhas who preceded him. It attracts pilgrims from all over the world. We have not seen anything more interesting in the line of temples anywhere. The marvelous amount of carving and orna- mentation is almost stupefying. One feels bewildered and unable to grasp the details. The temple occupies a mound partly artificial and partly natural, cut into rectangular terraces, one above the other, each side facing one of the cardinal points of the compass. The mound rises one hundred and sixty-eight feet above the ground, in four flights of steps. It is nine hundred feet long and six hun- dred and eighty-five feet wide. At the foot are two gi- gantic leographs. The front porch is of teak wood, carved throughout. The cross beams are embellished with scenes from the life of Guatama and his disciples. The stairs debouch on a broad open court which runs all around the 138 Ten Months on the W ing . pagoda, and is left free for worshipers; from the center of this rises the pagoda itself. It has a circumference of one .thousand three hundred and fifty-five feet and rises to the height of three hundred and seventy feet — a little higher than St. Paul's Cathedral. It is profusely gilded with gold leaf from base to top and surmounted by the usual gilt umbrella, from which are suspended multi- tudinous gold and silver bells. This Ti, or umbrella, was presented to the pagoda by Mindon Mim, the late King of Burma, and cost two hundred and fifty thousand dol- lars — (in American money.) It is set in precious jewels. At the corners of the basement are figures of creatures with two bodies and one head, half lion and half man, with huge ears and rufi:led crest. All about these figures are other lions with grinning teeth. The legend says that when Buddha was a child he was lost in the forest and suckled by a lioness. When he attained to manhood, he left his foster mother and swam a large river to escape from her The tender-hearted mother's heart burst with grief. The four chapels at the foot of the pagoda are adorn- ed with sitting Buddhas. There is a Chinese pagoda and a Japanese pagoda. The figures of the Buddha in these differ in features from the Burmese Buddha. There are hundreds of images. Around the edge of the platfrom arc hosts of small pagodas — a mass of gilt and colored glass — elaborately carved, each with its ti and image-house over- flowing with the gifts ofi:ered by generations of pilgrims. Anyone who builds a pagoda is considered a great philan- thropist, and is looked up to by all his neighbors. Hence the first thing a man does, when he is able, is to build one or more pagodas, according to his means. They are also built as atonement for sin. The same thing applies to the placing of gold leaf on the j^agodas. The poor people deny themselves almost of necessary food in order to buy gold for an atonement, or as a return for favors from tho gods. This accounts for the multitude of images of Gua- Ten Months on the Wing. 13?> tama in low stone chapels. The manufacture of images ii^ a thriving business. There are tall poles from which flaunt long cylindri- cal streamers of bamboo framework, pasted over pictures depicting scenes from sacred history or inscribed with pious invocations — the top surmounted by the sacred goose. Interspersed among these are small bells, which the worshiper strikes as he passes, to call the attention ol the nats, or gods, and incidentally of men, to his act of piety. In a gaily-covered shed is an enormous bell, inside which six men could stand. It weighs forty-two and a half tons and bears a long inscription recounting the mer- its of King Tharrawaddy, who presented it to the pa- goda. The British attempted to carry it to Calcutta after the second Burmese war, but it was lost in the river. The Burmese after some years recovered it. All the pagodas are glittering masses of inlaid glass^ both in colored and mirror glass. The facades and upper parts are carved like lace. The platform is never desert- ed; even until long after midnight, streams of worshipers come and go, and their voices may be heard far into the night, chanting pious aspirations. In one pagoda is a tremendous recumbent Buddha. At the foot of the Pagoda Hill are numerous monas- teries. The priests wear the same beatific smile one al- ways finds on the face of the Buddha. Buddhism is a cheerful religion, and its adherents seem to be very happy. The priests range in age from mere boys to old men. All wear a shaven poll and are dressed in a rich orange-col- ored cloth, draped from the shoulders, similar to the Greeks' toga. The priests are vegetarians. They are held in great respect by their co-religionists. They are supported by the charity of the people. It is a peculiar sight to witness the priests going from house to house collecting their day's rations. Each family contributes one spoonful of rice, and by the time they have visited a 140 Ten Months on the Wing. dozen or more houses, sufficient food for the day has been obtained. From the Shwe Dagon, we drove out to the Eoyal Lake and Garden, one of the most pleasant parks we have seen anywhere. On our return we came through the Bazaars. They present a scene of gaiety and animiatioin that is fasci- nating in the extreme. We are greatly charmed with Eangoon, and find the city itself and conditions of life more interesting than any place we have visited since Cairo. The people ap- pear cleaner and more prosperous than in India. They are altogether different in type, and seem a happier lot. Their clothes are better, and range in colors of the rain- bow, making the street scenes a bright beautiful picture, and the gardens resemble lovely water-colors in the late afternoon, when the people are dispersed over the green turf amid the trees and lakes. October 9th. — This morning at seven o'clock we drove out to the timber yards to see the elephants at work. The intelligence they display is most astonishing, and the strength of their trunks in handling the huge logs, pro- digious. Coming back, we stopped at the jail saleroom to see the carving done by the prisoners. There are three thous- and of them in this prison, and as many more in another one, seven miles out. At four we took" another drive and visited another pagoda, containing an immense Buddha forty-seven feet high and thirty feet across the shoulders. It has a very large diamond in its forehead. Like all pagodas, it is very ornately decorated. At some little distance is still another Buddha of even greater proportions than this. All that may be seen of it, from a distance, is its tremendous head above the trees and housetops and one foot, as it is in a recumbent post- Ten Months on the W in g . 11 1 tion. I should judge it is all of one hundred feet in length. On our outgoing drive we met a procession of Hindu Devil Dancers^ carrying images, beating drums and toor- ing horns. Entering the city on our return, we encountered an- other excited crowd;, watching a different kind of Devil Dance. In this the performers were dummies dressed to represent men and women. These dummies were borne above the heads of the multitude^ and made to appear as dancing, while the drums and horns made an ear-splitting noise. We also visited the Lake of Sacred Fish. No one is allowed to catch them. There are women caretakers whose duty it is to feed and look after them. There are millions of the fish, thick as macaroni in a dish, wiggling and squirming like snakes when food is thrown into tlie water. The women sell a sort of biscuit to sight-seers with which to feed them. October IOtii. — Left Rangoon at noon for Manda- lay. The railway runs through paddy fields for a long distance. About five P. M. we reached the jungle, and from that time on until bedtime, we traveled mostly through a dense forest. At one station we saw an immense figure of Buddha, recently excavated from the forest. It was built of brick and covered with plaster. October 11th. — Arrived at Mandalay at one-thirty this morning. Are located at Salween Hotel — the only hotel in the town. After tiffin we visited the Arankan Pagoda with our new guide, Karamat Kahn. It is rendered especially sa- cred by the great grass Buddha twelve feet high. It dif- fers from most of the images in that its features are gross and repulsive. At the next pagoda, Aindaw Yah, they were making 142 Ten Months on the ^¥ in g . preparations for a great festival, which will open on the 15th. Any and everybody may attend the feast and be served with refreshments free. Each pagoda has. a treas- ury box, into which people drop a coin. At the festival season these boxes are opened. The pagoda is repaired and redecorated, according to the amount obtained. This is at holiday time and everything is then free to all. Thei'e is dancing and other forms of entertainment, the marion- ette being one especially enjoyed. October 12th. — Arose early and went out before breakfast; drove to Mandalay Hill, where we climbed to the top of the pagoda for a view of the city. Mandalay resembles a large, straggling village, laid out in broad streets at right angles. The residences are far apart, and so embowered in trees that they are scarcely discernible until one comes in close proximity to them. They are mostly constructed of teakwood, a wooden structure be- ing necessary on account of frequent earthquakes and the humidity of the atmosphere, which makes them healthier than brick buildings would be. We went by the Serpents' Pagoda ; also stopped at the Kuthodaw Pagoda, with its seven hundred and twenty- nine small pagodas, each containing an inscription from the sacred books of the Veda. The pagodas are in straight rows, enclosed by a high wall one-half mile square. lu the center is the usual gilded pagoda. We then went to the Tai-k Taw Monastery, where we met a fine old monk, whose face beamed with benevo- lence. He treated us most kindly and said he was sorry he could not speak to us in English. On taking leave of him he presented me with some verses from the Veda, written on a palm leaf. We wished to present him with a small remembrance, but he refused, so we gave it to an humbler monk to buy flowers for the worship — this is customary, all the altars being bedecked with floral of- ferings. I feel certain he was as much "in tune with the Infinite" as many Christians. "W^ien I offered him my Ten Months on the Wing. 14.3 hand at parting, he said he was sorry not to take my hand, but his order forbade him to touch a woman. This is Sunday. We went to a Chinese reception with our proprietor. It was held at one of the large pagodas. There was a great throng of people in the grounds, it be- ing one of the important feast days. The pavilion was elaborately decorated with lanterns, tissue-paper flowers and flags of the different nations. Only invited guests were allowed inside the Chinese pavilion. Great piles of all varieties of fruit adorned the long tables; this to be ofi'ered to the gods, by throwing it in the river and given to the ponges, or priests. The whole affair is for tlie benefit of the ponges. Tonight is Chinese night; tomor- row is Burmese night, when a wealthy native will give a feast. We were served several kinds of cake and candies, with tea; but the tea was a sickening concoction served with skimmed milk and sugar. Later there will be danc- ing by Burmese girls and boys. We did not remain, as it is so warm. OcTOBEE 13th. — Went to several pagodas before breakfast, among them Bishop's Pagoda and several mon- asteries, chief of which was the Queen's Golden Monas- tery — now in a state of decay. This is built of teakwood, profusely decorated with carving and heavily gilded with- in and without. It was constructed in 1882, but the hu- midity causes wood to decay in a few years unless well protected. In the afternoon we drove to Fort Buffering. The walls of the fort are twenty feet high and one and one- fourth miles long on each side. The whole is surrounded by a moat fifty feet wide, the waters of which are covered with lotus leaves and blossoms. On each of the four sides, at regular intervals, are watchtowers of Burmese design. There are twelve gates. In the enclosure are situated the Government buildings and soldiers' barracks. The grounds are planted to fine trees and flowers. Exactly in the center of the Fort stands the Eoyal 144 Ten Months on the Wing. Palace of King Mindon. Here he surrendered to the British after the conquest of Burma. He is now in exile in India. The palace is built of teakwood, highly orna- mented with carAdngs and gold leaf. There were several different throne rooms — the Peacock Throne, The Lion Throne, the Duck Throne and the Lily Throne. The lat- ter was the place where the women were received. Over the Lion Throne rises the seven-storied gilded spire, which the Burmese used to call "the center of the universe."' Hard by the palace is the Museum of King Mindon and his sister. The Zaygo Bazaar, which lies in the center of tlie city, occupies a very large space. Here are silk mer- chants, silversmiths, lacquer makers, umbrella makers, makers of tissue-paper flowers, and all kinds of Burmese wares. The tissue-paper flowers are very much used for dressing the hair of the women. October 14th. — Left Mandalay at five A. M. We came down to the boat last night and went on board at eight-thirty P. M. The boat did not leave the landing until this morning. We have had a pleasantly cool day; it rained part of the time. There are only five passengers in the first- class; no ladies except myself. This is the steamship Siam, Captain Musgrave in command. Eeached the Ghat at Lapoka about one P. M. ; are tied up until four A. M., loading cargo. October IStii. — This morning we passed hundreds of pagodas. If there be a reward for the building of fanes to his gods, the Burmese is certain of an exalted seat in Heaven. His two great virtues are giving alms and building pagodas. They live well, having reasonably comfortable houses. The women wear much jewelry, either of gold or silver^ set with precious stones. They do not wear ornaments in their noses, as do the natives of India, nor disfigure their Ten Months on the Wi n g . 145 faces with tatooing, as the former do, though the men often tattoo their legs above the knee. Both the men and the women wear silk, which is dyed in unfading colors, generally bright reds, blues, yellows, pinks — plain and plaids. Eveiy woman and girl has at least half a dozen changes. The men wear a kind of shirt called an "ainge ;" the lower garment is called a "longe.'' There is only a slight difference in the garments of the sexes, the men tying the longe on the side, and women in front. The women have luxuriant hair, worn like a turban, glossy with the oil of coeoanut and ornamented with tissue-paper flowers. The babes go nude until four or five years old. The first thing a boy wears in the way of clothing is a string, with a metal ornament in front. The girl babies look like dolls. They shave their heads, leaving only a top- knot, which is tied with bright ribbon. The Burmese is copped-colored and many of the wo- men are handsome. The English call them the "Irish of the East," on account of their jolly, happy dispositions. We stopped at several stations to load freight and take on passengers, mostly natives, although we have sev- eral more Englishmen and one American, with his Eus- eian wife. He is from Ohio, interested in oil business here. At one place there are veritable forests of oil wells. The oil is piped down to Eangoon. October 16th. — Passed the time reading today. We tie up every night and only travel by day. The Irrawady is as broad as the Mississippi, and quite as muddy. October 17th. — Captain Musgrave sang for us this afternoon. It is J.'s birthday. October 18th. — We are going through the Delta to- day. The mosquitoes are numerous and vicious. 146 Ten M ontlis on the Wing. October 19th. — Arrived at Rangoon at eight A. M. Hotel Eoyal. It is very hot here. October 20th. — Went shopping. We were advised to buy rubies here, but we find the genuine article just as expensive as at home. October 21st. — Rested. October 22nd. — Went for a drive through the park- in the afternoon. October 23rd. — Left Rangoon at three-thirty for Singapore on the steamship Ellora. There are four American ladies on board. They are glad to see fellow countrymen, having traveled about the same route as we. October 24-th. — A smooth sea and a fine breeze make life very pleasant after the heat of Rangoon. We have an amusing time with the Captain and sev- eral Englishmen. They criticise the Americans' use of English, finding it amusing; while we, on the other hand, find them quite as amusing in their knowledge — or lack of knowledge — of the great country across the Atlantic. October 25th. — Today we passed many green is- lands off the coast of Siam. October 26th, Sunday. — We reached Penang about seven A. M. Stopped here all day, taking cargo. Al- most every one went on shore for the day. I was not well, and J. would not go without me. The American ladies report a fine day; say there is an excellent botanical garden and an interesting Chinese pagoda. Ten Months on the Wing. 147 OcTOBEE 27TII. — Played cards most of the forenoon and listened to Captain Sharp's stories. One was an experience he had when he first came on this line. A native, with a sad expression of counten- ance, came np and saluted him, at the same time making a request of him. The Captain thought the man wanted medicine, and poured for him a large dose of castor oil; the man remonstrated, but the Captain insisted on his taking it, which he finally did, but with a very wry face. The native then went off and returned with a friend who spoke a little English. The friend explained that the first man had lost the key to his box, and wanted to know whether or not the Captain had seen it! October 28th. — Landed at Singapore at nine-thirty A. M. Hotel De Europe. October 29th. — Singapore is only sixty miles from the equator. We find it no warmer here than at Eangoon. It was cool enough to need a light wrap last night. The island on which Singapore is located is sixty-sis miles in circumference; has a population of two hundred and fifty thousand, seventy per cent of whom are Chinese : about eight hundred English, including the troops. There are also a number of Indians and many "Japs." The po- lice are Indians; some big husky fellows among them, too. The mode of travel is mostly by 'rikishas ; there are twelve thousand of them, the streets being as full of them as the ordinary city street is of cabs. Forty cents an houi* is the charge, and the coolie travels almost as fast as a horse. He wears short trousers that reach half-way to the knees; above this he sometimes wears a short jacket, but more often the upper part of his body is bare. His skin is a soft light brown, clean and satiny; his legs are well-shaped and well-developed from constant use; he lifts his feet like a horse when trotting, and can keep up a good gait for an hour at a time. The 'rikisha has a top like a perambulator, the body being painted in Chinese 148 Ten Months on the Wing. design. The wheels are high and light. The 'rikisha was the invention of an American missionary. The coolie wears a hat of plaited bamboo leaves, which terminates in a sharp peak. Our hotel is a peculiar style of architecture. One floor is devoted to bedrooms and the next to baths. Each room has a bath — those on the first floor have the baths above, those on the second floor have the baths below. Like most Oriental hotels, there are no sanitary arrange- ments; you pull out the plug from the tub and the water runs off' through a pipe in the corner of the room. Our guide, Silva, is a Ceylonese. We drove this morning to see the city; also went out into the residence district. There are many lovely bun- galows, generally the property of wealthy Chinese, who build them to rent to the English. They are so arranged that the air may circulate through them from all sides; they are often raised several feet above ground on brick pillars, to avoid dampness. Just outside of Singapore is a native village, built like lake-dwellers' houses, over the waters of the bay. This is done because building sites are so expensive. Their huts are of bamboo, v/ith thatched roofs. A wealthy Arab owns extensive grounds near the Botanical Gardens. They are handsomely laid out, with artificial lagoons and boat-houses. Near the Gardens are the soldiers' barracks. The roads are very beautiful and shady, with typical trees, on the trunks of which cling graceful vines and immense bunches of "birdnest" or- chids. We visited the Chinese pagoda — a quaint affair, full of Buddhas and highly ornate, with porcelain decorations. The Botanical Gardens contain many plants that one sees only in hothouses in temperate zones. Great lotas leaves with white and pink flowers, ferns of every vari- ety, poinpettias, vanilla plants, and creepers too numerous to mention; every variety of palms, some resembling a large fan have only one leaf. Some of them are forty Ten Months on the Wing. 149 feet high; among them is the rosin palm, so called be- cause the upper part resembles a stick of sealing wax ; and the "toddy plant/' from which the natives extract an in- toxicating liquor. Besides these, are the bread fruit tree, jack fruit, papiya, mango, mangostino, bamboo, rattan, and many others. At four o'clock we took an auto and drove around the island — a ride of sixty-six miles. The road is excel- lent; we passed great groves of cocoanut palms, weighed down with fruit; vast estates of rubber and pineapples; often the pineapple is planted between the rows of rubber trees, thus providing a source of revenue until the rubbei* tree is old enough to tap. The tapping was in progress on several estates. The tree is first tapped when five years old. In the large trees the trunk is divided into four equal sections, the bark being cut on one section each year for four years, when the tree must be allowed to rest at least five years before tapping again. The knife is neevr allowed to penetrate the thin skin, or bark that is directly next to the wood, but a V-shaped place is cut out, and at the lower point a small tin spile is inserted; under this the cup, either of glass or china, is placed. Once a day a coolie collects the sap, which resembles thick cream. About four ounces is the limit a tree will produce in a day. In gathering, the man carries two pails; into one he empties the sap and in the other he washes the cup and replaces it under the spile. After the tree has been sufficiently tapped, a coolie washes the cut and stops the flow; the next year he taps another section, and so on lor four years. Small trees are not tapped so frequently. There is a great deal of capital being invested in rubber here. We saw sheets of rubber the size of towels hanging on the line to dry. The sap is dried between layers of ashes, and then rolled out into sheets. Pineapples are a very profitable crop. We met many carts loaded with them, driven by Chinese — the cart, a two-wheeled vehicle, drawn by sacred oxen. 150 Ten Months on the Wing. There are also large sugar plantations, besides the indigo industry and sago manufacture. The indigo plant is pulled up and placed in water for about fifteen days, at the end of which time it is quite rotten. It is then rubbed until all the color is extracted. This settles to the bottom, the waste is drawn off and the indigo dried. The same process applies to sago. The bark of the tree is peeled off and soaked, the liquor drawn off and the flour cooked a certain length of time. This is put through a machine that forms it into beads. It is then ready for the market. The mandico plant flourishes here also. It is ground and afterwards cooked and run through a machine like the sago. The auto road is wonderfully beautiful. A kind of stone is used that approaches in appearance the tufa of New Mexico. It is very durable. At one place we passed through a virgin jungle, Vv^here tigers abound, and man could not penetrate without an ax. How much it appeals to a lover of trees ! "A tree is one of nature's words, A word of peace to man. A word that tells of central things From whence all things began." The Chinese are the gardeners here as elsewhere. They are an industrious people wherever you find them. The waiters in the hotels are all Chinese, and look so cool and clean in their white suits. We are informed that the prevailing sickness among the proletariat is beri-beri, caused by eating rice not well- cooked. There is a large hospital here where it is treated ; but there has been found no cure for it. October 30th. — Have been ill today. October 31st. — ^^Vent shopping this morning. November 1st. — We came on board the steamer Na- T e n M o nths on the W i n g . 151 vanha (P. & 0. Line) at three P. M. It is very hot standing in clock while they coal the ship. November 2nd. — Sailed at daybreak. Passed througli the Gulf of Siam; much cooler — the sea is smooth. Only thirty-five first-class passengers on board. The Navanha is a sister ship to the India, but not so large. We have the chief ofBcer and several pleasant gentlemen at our table. Our voyage is for ten days^, and one's talkie companions can make or mar the trip. We are the only Americans. Passed some islands at sundown. November 3rd. — A fine day, smooth sea, and the weather grows colder as v/e get further north. November 4th. — Quiet day. November 5th. — Sighted a ship about sundown — had a wireless message from another P. & 0. steamer, saying she was in a monsoon and the sea was high in consequence. November 6th. — We came in sight of land about five o'clock, and soon were passing through the channel between mountainous islands in the Yellow Sea, which skirts the coast of the Celestial Empire. At eight P. M. we anchored outside the harbor of Kowloon. The P. & 0. launch came out for the mail. We cannot get wharf room until morning, as we are not due until that time. November 7th. — Arrived at the quay about sunrise, but were not docked until nine o'clock. Kowloon is on the mainland. To reach Hong Kong we must cross in a ferry boat — this takes only a few minutes. We went to Cook's office, where we found numerous 153 Ten Months on the Wing. Americans. The sound of their voices was as music to our ears. We went up to the Peak, the highest point on the island. We went to Peak Hotel by cable tram; here we engaged coolies to carry us the remainder of the way in sedan chairs, two men to each chair. They put the poles on their shoulders and walked up the steep incline with apparent ease. From the Peak we had an excellent view of the whole island on which Hong Kong is situated. The island is a continuous mountain thirteen hundred feet high. Tlie city and bay lie before the eye in a lovely panoramic land- scape. The bay shore is defined by a circle of mountains. Xowloon is on a peninsula that projects out into the bay. It belongs to China, while Hong Kong was ceded to Great Britain. The viev/ at night on entering the harbor i? quite striking on account of the houses being built on the side of the mountain. It is difficult to tell where the electric lights leave off and the stars begin. The morn- ing view is equally attractive. In construction, the build- ings are European, but the signs on most of the shops are Chinese. Hong Kong has the appearance of being a busy commercial mart. The streets are thronged with coolies fetching and carrying, and doing all the work usual to draught animals. We saw only one yoke of oxen; they were drawing the sprinkling cart. Had lunch at Hong Kong Hotel, a very well-arranged house. Came back to the steamer for dinner. Many of our passengers left the boat here. We met the American ladies who came over on the Ellora with us. They sailed from Singapore three days previous to our sailing; had been up to Canton and were on their homeward voyage. ISTovEMBER 8th. — Still discharging cargo. Sailed at four o'clock. We have taken on several new passengers, one young American from Manila who is going to Eng- Ten Months on the ^Ying. 153 land on a vacation. He is an acquaintance of Governor Curry, of New Mexico. JSTovEMBER 9th, Sunday. — We are sailing along the coast of China. It is a ragged coast, and very mountain- ous. A stiff breeze makes the waves high; it is quite cool tonight. November 10th. — We have been in the Yellow Sea for some time, but are still in sight of the Chinese coast. There are a great many fishing boats and nets are staked out in the sea. Today has been so cool we had to don our coats. We are due to reach Shanghai at eight A. M. tomor- row. November 11th. — Arrived at Shanghai at one-thirty P. M.— Palace Hotel. Coming up the Woosung river, one is impressed witli the evidence of the great commercial industry of Shang- hai, it being the most important commercial center of the Far East. It has a population of a million and is the chief shipping point of all China. A great many Ameri- cans live here; we see and hear them on every side. It is more American than any place we have seen. November 12th. — We went with Mr. J. of Manila for an auto ride. We drove along the Bund and out the Nanking Road; also the Bubbling Well Eoad, where the Chinese go twice a year to worship at the temple — and incidentally to sell their wares; then along the Jessfield Eoad, where are situated the finest residences in the Far East; out to the Chinese University, the Garden Bridge, and on into the gardening district, where there are num- erous tombs, like small mounds among the gardens. We returned along the French Eoad, through the Chinese dis- trict of Shanghai. 154 Ten Months on the Wing. KovEMBER 13th. — Left Shanghai at one P. M. and reached Nanking at seven P. M. The railway runs through a level country, where truck farming is exten- sively carried on. The whole face of the country is cov- ered with tombs, built up of small mounds of earth; the truck patches are all around them. A few have vegetables planted on them. There was great rioting when the rail- road started to be built and every tomb desecrated for this purpose had to be paid for. A chain of low mountains begins on the left from this point and continues with several interruptions up to Nanking. November 14th. — We took a carriage and a Uni- versity student as a guide and went sight-seeing. The bo3^'s name is William Choy. He is studying English and Chinese; speaks English very well. He is a native of th.'^ Hawaiian Islands, We drove several miles out into the suburbs of the city to the tombs of the first Emperors of the Ming dyn- asty. Little is left of the temple and monuments erected to commemorate Ming. The tomb proper is covered by a large artificial mound, planted to trees. There was for- merly a grand approach lined with statues of horses, ele- phants, lions, et cetera, but only a few remain at present. Ee turning, inside the city wall we visited the court where, two hundred years ago, students who had attained to the B. A. degree came to be examined. There are twenty-nine thousand stalls. Here they were obliged to spend three days out of every two years, writing their es- says. They were without food for these three days, or until they had passed the examination. Afterwards, they gathered in the large court, where the essays were exam- ined and passed upon. These stalls are in rows several hundred feet in length, the dimensions of each stall be- ing three by five feet. The space included in the grounds is all of half a mile in length and a quarter of a mile wide. There are watchtowers on the corners. Ten Months on the Wing. 1 55 We carried our tiffin in the carriage and ate it on a houseboat on the canal. It consisted of cold meat, bread and butter, grapes, - bananas, roasted watermelon seeds, stout and tea; the latter was steeped in each cup; a small saucer was placed over the cup and the tea was drunk from the cup with cover intact. Our napkins were towels wrung out of hot water. Nanking has a population of over a million people. About five hundred missionaries live here and are 'jon- sidered to be doing a good work in educating the young; but the proletariat are slow to take advange of education. Nanking was the scene of a recent conflict between the troops of the Government and Eebels, or Progres- sives. The Eebels held the city. In August the Federal troops laid siege to it for over a fortnight before the evacuation. All around us are signs of the fierce bom- bardment that took place. The Federals occupied the high hills east of the city, from whence they threw shells over into the eastern portion, causing great devastation and killing many non-combatants as well as soldiers. Mr. M., who owns the Bridge Hotel, where we are staying, had his hotel sacked and destroyed by fire. They were forced to live on houseboats on the river during the siege. Many lives were lost on both sides. Of the old Man- churian city, that was surrounded by a wall forty miles in extent, not a house was left standing after the war of 1911, when China became a Republic. We read in today's paper that Shanghai had been declared under martial law and that an attack on the Arsenal has been planned for Friday. We go back to- night, and it is our sincere hope that we shall not be de- layed by the destruction of the railway. NovEMBEE 15th. — Eeturned to Shanghai this morn- ing; find the weather very cold. ISFovEMBEE 16TI-I. — Went for a walk along the Bund, 156 Ten Months on the Wing. November 17th. — Went through Chinatown. November 18th. — Last night J. attended an instal- lation of officers at the English Lodge of Free-masons. He met a Dr. Eancem, of America, who showed him great courtesy and introduced him to the Lodge as a thirty- third degree Mason. They made him sit in the East. This moraing Mrs. E. came and called on me. She is an English lady. We went for a drive in her hand- some car. Such things make life sweeter. One appreci- ates a kindness greatly when in a foreign land. November 19th. — We bade farewell to Shanghai at eleven A. M. The tender left the quay at twelve, and in less than half an hour we were aboard the P. &. 0. steamer Oriental, bound for Yokohama, twelve hundred. miles from Shanghai. There are only three first-class passengers, so wo were given the use of two staterooms; one for our dress- ingroom and one for a bedroom. November 20th. — We passed a mountainous island this afternoon. It has been a fine, bright day. Are due to arrive at Muji at daybreak, where the steamer coals. We will have three hours to spend on shore. November 81st. — Arrived at Muji in a heavy rain; it continued all day, so we could not go ashore. The city is prettily located, with a low range of mountains as a background. We had to dress and make our appearance in the salon at seven A. M. in order that the Japanese doctor might see that we were well. Muji is an imnortant fortification. One is not al- lowed to make kodaks under penalty of five years' im- prisonment. The "Japs" are entirely different in mannei's and Ten M nths on the Wing. 1 57 customs from the Chinese. Their clothing, especially that of the men, is quite European. The one exception being their shoes, which are worfe than those worn by the Chi- nese. They consist of a piece of wood with strings com- ing up between the great toe and the second toe to hold them on. Often they have two cleats under the foot to keep them out of the mud. They- go clattering along the street while their shoes, which are called "clappers," s!ide around at each step. Some of the women are quite pretty and the babies are extremely interesting. They are the most polite people whom we have ever seen. The little babies even "kotow" to every one, while the "grownup?" bow most profoundly, the women getting down on their knees and bowing to the floor several times. November 22nd. — We came on to Kobe last night and arrived at the New Pier about eight o'clock this morn- ing. We came ashore at ten-thirty and took the train for Kyoto, arriving there about one o'clock. A long range of mountains lies to the left of the railway; they are beautiful in their autumnal foliage. The railway runs through paddy fields most of the way. We saw rice curing on bamboo frames, rice ready to har- vest and rice sprouting from the ground. We reached Kyoto Hotel in time for tiffin. At five o'clock we attended a Japanese dance festi- val, called the Maple Dance. This took place in their new Opera House. Everything in Japan resembles a pic- ture, or a piece of picture embroidery, or cut velvet — the representative art of Japan. The theatre is built of cedar ; the wood is left as nature colored it. A fine curtain, dec- orated with a crooked pine tree, hid the stage. A balcony extends on two sides and across the b^ck of the building, divided by eight screens into spaces of twelve-foot squares. The miain floor is divided into small squares like box stalls, where families sit and make their tea between acts. Eefreshraents, like cake and rice, are also served. A charming bridge connects the theatre proper widi 158 Ten Months on the Wing. the entrance hall. This is a characteristic of Japanese architecture; is found in many private houses and in all the temples. These bridges are sheltered by tiled roofs, with curved cornices and corners. The first dancers entered with measured tread, wear- ing gorgeous kimonos. The prima donna wore one made of cloth of gold, with a helmet-like headpiece. Three wo- men sat at one side of the stage Avith strange musical in- struments, one similar to a banjo Avith strings, and she used a flat instrument to pick the chords with. The other two took turns about reciting the story of the play, or dance. On the back of the stage knelt several girls with instruments that resembled boxes, shaped like an ordi- nary Chinese lantern. They beat on these with the ends of tlieir fingers. The sound emitted was like that made by striking a light wooden box on the bottom. As they struck the box each one ejaculated, "Eee'ya a aah,' Eee' ya a a ah ! Eee ya a a ah oh ! Oh." This was repeated until one wanted to scream. In the meantime, the dancer stepped around, truly '^like walking on eggs." Occasion- ally she stamped on her wooden heel, at the same time making a sound with her mouth not unlike that made by a cat on the back fence. She would then kneel and "ko- tow" to the floor. After many repetitions of this perform- ance, she withdrew as she had entered, dragging her feet in sloAV measured tread. After this, the two others went through almost the same performance. One wore a charming kimono of brown, embroidered in gold and lined with orange satin. The other, a blue kimono, embroid- ered in white in a bamboo design. After an intermission of fifteen minutes the curtain went up on a very realistic street scene. This dance was a sort of comic opera acted between a girl with a basket of lettuce and one with two baskets of vegetables on a bamboo pole. Their kimonos were not so splendid, but they put some life into their actions. Then a second curtain was withdrawn and six charming little girls en- tered. Their dancing was graceful and pretty, while the Ten M 71 til s on the W ing . 159 stage decorations represented an out-of-door scene of gar- dens and electric lights, maple trees, cherry trees and waterfalls — very lovely. The performance continued un- til midnight, but we only remained for two acts. The "Japs" have two of these festivals each year, one during cherry time and one when the maples turn scarlet in the autumn. And such a scarlet! November 23rd. — We employed a carriage and guide and drove around to the places of interest. First the main gate of the city, Chion-in, said to be one thousand years old and the only one of this style nf architecture in Ja- pan, To say it is grandly beautiful only half expresses it. Built of cedar, unpainted, it represents the best in ancient Japanese architecture. A broad stone roadway leads up the hill, where there are several Buddhist tem- ples. The next place we visited was the Chijakuin, head- quarters for three thousand temples of the Tendia sect. The garden, planted by Sen no Eikyu, is a counterpart of the design on Japanese cut velvet. The atmosphere seemed to be the same that one sees in a fine water-color. The Temple of Chion-in contains numerous ancient screens, some of great value. The Sanjusengendo signi- fies a Hall of thirty-three Ken, or entrances. The Hall is five hundred years old. It contains one thousand and one images of Buddha. The central image is of bronze, with five hundred wooden images on either side of it, each of which has forty-two hands. Besides these, there are twenty-eight subordinate gods, such as the God of Fire, the God of Thunder, the God of Mirth, et cetera. The Kiyomizu Temple is situated at the foot of the moun- tain; a stream of clear water ripples through the valley at its base, and numerous tea houses rest among the trees. The temple is built upon a framework several stories high and commands a view that is unrivaled for loveliness. Before returning, we went to a private garden whose owner is a wealthy silk merchant. It was an ideal spot. 160 Ten Months on the Wing. with its miniature lake and rills^, in which to while away a pleasant afternoon. A visit to the museum proved interesting. Later we drove to the Diabutsu Temple, where there is a very large bronze bell which is rung by drawing a large beam and letting it drop back until it strikes the bell. The tone is melodious and echoes far and near. We drove by the University, the Hospital, Spectacle Bridge, so named because it has the appearance of a pair of spectacles. From here we went to the Hoganji Gate, the Gasa- kana Pagoda, and through part of the grounds of the an- cient palace; then to the shops and private museums, where we saw many fine things in bronze, lacquer, dama- cine, bamboo, cloisonne, satsuma, wood-carving and in- laid work, ivory, embroidery and painting. Kyoto is not- ed for its pottery, its embroidery, cut velvet and brocades; also its temples, among the most important of which are San-ju-san-gen-do, Nishi, Higa-shi, Hoganji, Kiyomidja- Dera and Chion-in. Kyoto is a Chinese name for "metropolis." When first laid out in the imitation of the Imperial City of China, it was three miles from the east to the west, three and one-fourth miles from north to south. A fine street two hundred and eighty feet wide led from the Palace to the South Gate. Nine wide streets, called Ichijo, Sanjo, and so on up to Kujo (named by numbers) intersected it from east to west, similar streets crossing these at right angles. The city is situated on the Kimajawa river. The Mikado's Palace covers twenty-six acres; is now used only on occasions of Shinto festivals. The Emperor visits Ky- oto only once annually. Kyoto has a population of four hundred and forty thousand and is a typical city of Ja- pan. Others are modernized more or less, but Kyoto has remained Japanese. Many of its streets are too narrow for vehicles; a few are wide enough for autos and car- riages if carefully handled. There is a tramway, electnc plant, sewers and waterworks, but the buildings are near- Ten Months on the Wing. 161 ly all constructed on Japanese plans. They seem like toy houses to uSj and would be too small for our large men to move around in. Trains run every hour to Kobe and are quite comfortable. Osaka is half-way between Kyoto and Kobe and is a town of importance in population, as well as commer- cially. It is a great manufacturing city. The Japanese children are the happiest "kiddies" we have ever seen; they are always laughing, and show no timidity with strangers, but wave their hands to us as we pass by. Kyoto has nine hundred temples of diferent sects of Buddhism; this is on account of its having been the capi- tal for so many years. November 24tii. — Left Kyoto at ten o'clock, and were back on the boat in time for tiflBn. In the afternoon we took a 'rikisha and went around Kobe, visiting the temples, but after seeing Kyoto it seem- ed less interesting. There are some good shops on the main street. Kobe exceeds all the cities in exports and imports and is a favorite port of Japan, on account of its plesaant climate. It is situated on the sea front, with a background of picturesque mountains. (Noted for its pretty basketwork.) Under the name of Buko, it had its existence in the remote past. There are several temples : a Shinto Temple, a Temple of Nanko, a Temple of Nafu- kuji. The latter is a Buddhist temple; contains a Buddha forty-eight feet high and eighty-five feet around the waist, manufactured by Nanjo Shobei, a papermaker. The Nunobiki waterfalls are about twenty minutes' walk from the hotel. The Female fall is forty-three feet high. We came back through Theatre street, where there are numerous places of amusement; cinematographs and theatres with flaming signs in the forms of pictures, Kobe is more European than Kyoto. 163 Ten Months on the Wing. November 25th.^ — We sailed at one-thirty P. M. Owing to our propeller becoming entangled in the rope of the tug boat, we were delayed an hour and a half; had to send ashore for a diver to come and disentangle it. November 26th. — Had our first gliimpse of Fuji- yama this morning; Captain Valentine sent the steward to call our attention to it. Arrived at Yokohama at twelve-thirty; reached the Hotel Pleasanton in time for tiffin. Went shopping with Mrs. T., the stewardess of the Oriental. Found letters from home. Ancient shell heaps and pottery dug up in parts of the city show that Yokohama was a city in the remote past, but it owes its commercial importance to the for- eigners who have settled here. It was an insignificant fishing village until Commodore Perry anchored off the point in 1854. He gave American names to several points in the neighborhood. The superiority of its anchorage had much to do with its being selected as a foreign port. A large and growing native city has sprung up outside the foreign settlement. In 1906 there were one thousand and eighty-four British and four hundred and eighty-sis Americans in the city. Yokoham.a boasts of but few sights, proi^erly speaking, but the curio lover will find much of interest in the shops. The city possesses a Pub- lic Hall, where plays are given and other entertainments are held. There is a charming drive along the Mississippi Bay and a fine view from the Bluff. November 27th. — Thanksgiviing Day Have been confined to the room all day with a severe cold. The American Embassy at Tokio is giving a recep- tion today to all Americans. November 28th. — Went to the chemist's for a rem- edy for cold. Ten Months on the Wing. 163 iSTovEMBER 29TIT. — There are quite a number of Americans in the hotel, and a Scotch lord and lady. We have plenty of American magazines to read, and they are a treat to us, after being deprived of anything American so long. December 1st. — We have employed a guide, and start this morning on a ten days' tour of Japan, The guide's name is K. Katsuyama, meaning "strong moun- tain." Leaving Yokohama at nine-thirty, we were in Tokio in an hour's time. Here we took a motor to the station for Niko, a twenty-five minutes' ride. The train runs through paddy fields for an hour, then we begin to see young forests of pine and cryptomeria. The country be- comes more rolling and fields of barley take the place of rice. It is a six hours' run from Yokohama to Niko, which lies in the mountains. Twelve miles from Niko we come to a splendid ave- nue of cryptomerias, three hundred 3'ears old. The ave- nue was laid out by the old Shogun to facilitate the pil- grimages to the sacred mountain of Nantai Zan, where one of the Great Shogun's tombs is situated. We were in Niko by dark, which comes on at four- thirty at this season. Our hotel. The Kanaya, is pleas- antly located on the bank of a fine stream, whose waters lull us to sleep as they pour over the pebbly bottom. The Japanese are good hotel managers and everything is done for our comfort, even to putting bed-stoves in our beds at night and furnishing padded kimonos with red sashes and slippers to wear to the bath. December 2nd. — At ten-thirty this morning, Katsu- yama announced that as the day gave promise of being bright, after the dull rainy weather of yesterday, we had better take advantage of the opportunity and go up to Chusenze, at the top of the mountain. Soon we were en- sconced in three jinrikishas, well tucked in with blankets 164 Ten Months on the Wing. and clad in overshoes^ for the mountain is white with snow near the summit. We can see this from our win- dow. With eight coolies to pull and push the jinrikishn, we started for a four hours' journey. Niko makes up in length what it lacks in breadth, and it was all of a mile before we reached the city limits. However, it is quite common in the small kingdom of maples, chrysanthemums and wisteria for country and town to run into each other until it is difficult to know where one leaves off and the other begins. Chusenze lies at the foot of Nantai Zan, eight miles from Niko. The road winds and zigzags up the steep slopes through tall pines, maples, oaks and beeches. Tho road was built in order that the Mikado might come here during the heat of summer. It is admirably constructed of rocks and gravel, sufficiently wide for 'riikishas. This mode of travel has as a recommendation the fact that it furnishes employment for a class who would otherwise search in vain for a livelihood. Their endurance is aston- ishing. They keep up a continual trot, excepting at the very steep grades, and appear fresh at the end of the jour- ney. Tea houses are provided at intervals, where they rest for ten minutes while drinking tea and eating a cracker. We are too late for the glories of the maple foliage, but it does not require a great stretch of the imagination to realize how charming was the scene a few weeks ago. The river that issues from Lake Chusenze falls in silvery cascades down the deep rugged gorge, keeping up a cease- less roar. Shortly before arriving at Maple Leaf Inn, we turn to the left, where a path leads to the platform com- manding a fine view of the Cascade, or Fall of Kagon-nc- taki; the height of the fall is two hundred and fifty feet. From the edge of the overhanging precipice a path leads down under the falls. Like everything else in Japan, this fall has a peculiar beauty that we have never seen elsewhere. The face of the overhanging cliff falls in folds like stone draperies, wdth sharp crenelated edges that re- Ten Months on the Wing. 165 semble colored lace, and to further this peculiar effect, nature has colored the rocks in shades of gray and brown and yellow. We ate a nice lunch at the hotel, which Katsuyama had provided, and started down the mountain, reaching Niko at four o'clock. December 3ed. — This morning we visited the Tem- ples and had our picture made standing by the Mihaslii, or Sacred Bridge. No one but the Mikado is allowed to cross this bridge, which is supposed to mark the place where Shodo Shonin, one of the venerated Shoguns, pass- ed over the Eiver on a bridge which an Angel formed cf two snakes. — (in other words, a rainbow.) Niko has beautiful gardens and splendid groves aud avenues of cryptomeria; some of these reach as high as two hundred and fifty feet into the blue ether, like those of our Pacific slopes. The Yomei-mon Gate is attractively and ornately carved and lacquered and, like all the temples, its roof of copper tiles is very artistic and expensive. To reach the Mausoleum of leyasus we ascended a broad stone stair between two rows of stately cryptomeria. On the left is a handsome Torii of granite, twenty-seven feet high, with columns three feet six inches in diameter, dating from 1648 — a present from Daimo Chikunze. Near by is a graceful pagoda of five stories, support- ed throu.gh the center by one large column made from a single tree. The pagoda rises to the height of one hun- dred and four feet. Eound the lower story are life-like painted carvings representing the twelve signs of the zo- diac. My sign, July, is represented by a horse, while J.% October, is a game chicken. Opposite the pagoda, standing amidst the trees, is the 0-Kari-dan, a building used to hold the im.age of leyasu. From the Torii, a pavement leads to the foot of the steps, crowned by the Ni-O-Mon, or Gate of Two Kings. There are two gilt figures repxeif^nting kwo different 166 Ten Months on the Wing. Buddhas, Amainu and Koma-inu. On the sides of the pil- lars, at each angle, are representations of a mythological animal called a baka. It represents a wolf, with the trunl: of an elephant, the eyes of a rhinoceros, the tail of a bull and the legs of a tiger. It is supposed to have the powei* of everlasting evil. On the heads of the central pillars are lions at one end of the building and unicorns at the other end. In the niches are fabulous beasts, supposed to be endowed with the power of speech. The gate outside is decorated with tapirs and peonies. Passing through the gate, we came to three hand- some buildings used as storehouses. These have artistic crescent-shaped roofs of red copper tiling, ornately dec- orated in carving and lacquered in dull red and black. They are arranged in a zigzag fashion and contain the picturer, furniture and utensils employed in treligioua ceremonies. One of the buildings is remarkable for the two painted, carved elephants in relief. On the left is a tall conifer tree, surrounded by a stone fence. Some say it is the identical tree which ley- asu was in the habit of carrying around with him in a flower-pot when the tree was small. Close to the tree is a stable, ornamented with mon- keys. Near by is a Holy Basin, carved from one piece of granite — this is for drinking water. It is sheltered by a roof erected in 1618. The pediment contains a pair ot winged dragons. A beautiful building beyond, called the Kyozo, con- tains a complete collection of Buddha Scriptures. Climbicg a second flight of steps we entered another court with stone balustrade. Just inside are two lions, represented as 'taking a downward leap, carved from one solid stone. On the right stands a bronze candelabrum, presented by the King of Luchu, and a bell given by the King of Korea, called the "moth-eaten bell," because of the hole in the top. On the left stands a beautiful bronza lantern from Holland and a Drum Tower of equal value. Ten Months on the Wing. le? At the extreme end of the platform stands the Temple of Yakushi, dedicated to the patron saint of leyasu. The exterior is ansterely plain, in black and red; but the in- terior ornamentation has no equal in ISFiko. It is a blaze of gold and harmonious coloring. Toward the steps that lead to the platform stands the beautiful gate called Yo- mei-mon. The fence, on either side, is ornamented with painted carvings of ducks, wild geese and waterfowls on the lower panels, with medallions of mountain birds on the upper panels. Passing through the Yomei-mon, we enter another court, where the priests of Buddha used to recite their liturgy at the two great annual festivals. One room contains a palanquin used in the proces- sion on the first of June, when it is supposed to be occu- pied by the spirit deities of leyasu, Hideyoshi and Gori- moto. It is so heavy that it requires seventy-five men to carry it. The next object of importance is the Chinese Gate, giving admittance to the shrines. The enclosure is sur- rounded by a fence fifty yards long, constructed of gilt trellis, with black lacquered footing. The pillars of the Kara-mon, or gate, are composed of Chinese wood, inlaid with great skill, the subjects being plum trees, dragons and bamboo. The two figures under the roof represent Chinese Sagas, the lower one representing the Emperor Gyo. The folding doors of the oratory are decorated with arabesque peonies in gilt relief. There are some fine eagle panels in the interior apartment. To reach leyasu's tomb we climbed a stone stairway (200 steps), with a heavy stone balustrade. The tomb is shaped like a small pagoda; the body is placed twenty- four feet under ground. In front of the tomb stands a low stone table, bearing an immense stork with a brass candle in its beak. The whole is surrounded by a stone wall and sheltered by tall cryptomerias. On our return, we passed along an avenue and 168 Ten Months on the Wing. through a fine Torii to a Shinto Temple called Futa-ara- Jinva. In one corner of the enclosure stands a bronze lantern, called the Bake Mons Toro. Tradition says it once had the power of taking the form of a demon and annoying the inhabitants of the locality on dark nights, until a courageous man attacked it with his sword and gave it a wound in its side, which is still visible. We next visited the Mausoleum of lemitsa. At the foot of the great stone staircase is the residence of the priests attached to the temple. Under a beautiful struc- ture supported by pillars is a massive granite water basin. The oratory and chapel are less magnificent than those of leyasu. The large lanterns of Dutch workman- ship are worthy of attention. We did not go up to the tomb, as it is said to b-e inferior to those we have seen. A flight of steps leads to the gate called Niten-mon. The niches contain statues of Komoka and Jikoka. On the inside are statues of the gods of Wind and Thunder. After tifhn we walked out to make some kodaks. Climbing a broad stone road, we entered a typical Japan- ese garden with a miniature lake, surrounded by weeping cherry trees. Up a small flight of steps we came to a shrine where women offer up prayers to the gods of Moth- erhood. Beside it is a red lacquered building, called Kaisan-do, dedicated to Shodo Shonin, the pioneer of the mountains. Passing out of the garden, we followed the lovely avenue of cryptomerias and entered a fine public garden, with numerous tea houses, amidst a surrounding of som- ber trees and small lakes, where summer visitors spend the afternoon drinking tea and lying in the hammocks. After a visit to a postal-card shop, we returned to the hotel. Katsuyama is an efficient guide. He has given us a Japanese drama to read, pertaining to things we are to see later. Ten Months on the Wing. 169 Decembee 4th. — ^We left Niko at ten A. M. by-jin- rikisha for the first station, a distance of twelve miles tlirough the great avenue of cryptomerias. Katsuyania came on by train and met us here with the luggage. Later we had tiffin on the train, prepared by our guide. Arrived at Tokio at four-thirty PL M. — Imperial Hotel. We find this a very comfortable establishment: came by 'rikisha — a ride of forty minutes from the sta- tion. December 5th. — We went by carriage to Asakusa Park and Temple Kwanzeon, passing near the Imperial Palace, which Avas formerly a Shogun castle, surrounded by three deep moats; the outer one has been filled in to make room for a broader street. There are several very old houses of ancient Japanese architecture, preserved as memorials. Y