*£P8*£ £» S#^i ■r-aw. fe%®s 2>> * '-J» > raff -^K ? ^ V « ^■B Jpl THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY, a poem; BY WILLIAM HAMILTON DRUMMOND, D.D. c ■ Belfast t - •" PRINTED BY JOSEPH SMYTH, FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME & BROWNE, LONDON J DOIG & STEVENSON, EDINBURGH ; ARCHER & WIRLING, T. WARD, AND THE OTHER BELFAST BOOKSELLERS. 1811. TO WILLIAM BRUCE, D.D. MEMBER OF THE BELFAST LITERARY SOCIETY, AND PRINCIPAL OF THE BELFAST ACADEMY,- THIS TESTIMONIAL OF GRATITUDE AND ESTEEM, IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR, PREFACE. ■ 1 HE coast of Antrim has long been a sub- ject of laudable curiosity, as it furnishes a fine field for geological enquiry, and presents a grand and novel spectacle to the eye of taste, in the wild sublimity of its promontories, the fantastic winding of its bays, and the romantic variety of its ciifls and rocks. That the reader may form a general idea of the topography of the coast, let him figure to his imagination a line extending from Belfast to the mouth of the Bann, through a circuit of sixty miles, and presenting some resemblance to the walls of a city, with all its bastions, curtains, and battlements, the stupendous masonry with which nature resists the force of a turbulent ocean. This line is in- tersected by a great variety of bays, at the extre- mity of each of which lies a valley, stretching in- to the country, generally divided by a stream of limpid water, and bounded by basaltic mountains, which form the eastern and western boundaries of each bay. The interior of the county might also be characterized by its vallies running in a direc- tion opposite to those of the coast. Thus the val- lies of the Six-mile -water and Gleawhirry, are op- VI PREFACE. posite to those of Larne and Glenarm ; the rivers of the former hastening to join the waters of Lough Neagh, while those of the latter empty themselves into the sea. The first and most eastern valley is that of the Lagan, commencing at Lisburn, or Hillsborough, and extending its varied and finely cultivated fields, sloping to the rising sun, along the mountains of Collin, Devis,* the Cave-hill, Carnmoney-hill, and the Knockagh. In examining these hills, which may be done with facility, by ascending some of the streams which run through their lateral vallies, par- ticularly those of the rivers Collin, Forth and Wood- burn, the geologist will find that they rest on a base of variegated sand-stone, dipping to the west. At least this is the lowest stratum which can be traced on the beach, at Ringin pointf, and along the roots of the Cave hill. This stratum probably reposes on yellow magnesian limestone, similar to that which emerges on the Holy wood shore ; — the limestone on grey- wacke, and the grey-wacke on schist or granite, and this, whether on an elephant, or a tortoise, I shall leave to more profound mineralogists to discover. A fine * Devis is 1400 feet high; the Cave-hill, at its greatest elevation, 1140; at M'Art's fort, 1100; Carnmoney hill, 79Q; and the Knockagh, 903. See Fasciculus fourth of the Belfast Literary Society, by W. Bruce, D.D. f The sand stone here contains clay galls ; a circumstance which, independent of its softness, would render it unfit for the purposes of architecture, as the galls drop out, and leave the stone full of cavities. See Jameson's Geognosy* PREFACE. VII section of this sand-stone may be seen at Mace- don point, arranged in many-coloured stripes, and cut by vertical veins of an unctuous argillaceous sub- stance, resembling fuller's earth. Extensive beds of clay, commonly of a red, some- times of a deep blue colour, and spotted, occur in the vallies of the Forth and Woodburn, and on the shores [ of Carrickfergns, where it has such tenacity that it is converted into bricks. In general, however, it con- tains too large a portion of silicious matter to admit this change. It is intersected by gypsum in veins which may vary from half an inch to two feet in thickness, and in such quantity that it is raised for exportation. The gypsum is fibrous in its structure, and in colour white, yellow, and reddish, also transpa- rent and silky. Dr. M'Donnell, a name not to be mentioned without praise for the ardour of his mine- ralogical researches, has observed that the fibres are always perpendicular to the plane of the hori- zon, that the crystallization has commenced from the sides of the vein in which it was formed, its extent on each side being distinctly marked by a line of separa- tion, and that where two veins meet, they do not cut, but are melted into each other, from which circum- stance it is inferred that they are of coeval formation.* * Rock salt is often found accompanying this formation, bat Ido not find that it has been discovered in the county of An- trim, though the strongest salt spring in Ireland, is in the es- tate of Noah Dalway, esq. near Carrickfergus. "The selenite of Mount Matre, near Paris, is divided into beautiful columns, like basalt - these have five, six, or seven sides, and are from one to two feet in diameter. It is also characterized by its containing petrefactions of quadrupeds Vlll PREFACE. The clay stratum is overlaid by a thin layer of bi- tuminous schist, and this by a blue limestone contain- ing the star stone, or vertebrae pentacrinites, the cor- nu ammonis, and anomia gryphus. To this succeeds a stratum of arenaceous limestone, often of a green hue, known in this district by the very appropriate name of mulatto, from its mixed nature, and the dif- ference of its colour from the snow-white limestone by which it is covered. This stratum abounds irt quartzy pebbles, and organic remains, particularly belemnites*, pectenites, echini, ostracites, cardia, the anomia gryphus, and a substance resembling gyp- and birds; which latter have been hitherto found only in this formation." Jameson's Geognosy. * The belemnite and echinus are often found in flint. The former when found either in limestone or mulatto, is generally of a yellow, calcareous, sparry texture on the outside, the cen- ter being of the same substance as that in which it is embedded. From some specimens of the echinus which I broke, it appears that they are a solid mass of the same material as that in which they lie, and contain no central crystallization ; but the place of the shell, in flint, is marked by a very thin sparry in- crustation. In the mulatto the shell is very distinctly preserved ; it has become of a sparry texture ; is much thicker than that of the urchin, now found in our seas; has no appearance of an opening having ever been at the top, but of two small orifi- ces near each longitudinal extremity of the base, by which the matter was injected. St. Pierre in his IVth Study of Na- ture, observes, " that many of the cornua ammonis, and sin- gle-shelled fossils, which, from their form, have resisted the pressure of the ground, have not ejected their animal matter, but exhibit it within them under the form of crystals, whereas the two-shelled are totally destitute of it." The observation will apply sometimes to the cornu ammonis, not to the echi- nus, as far as my observation extends. ...To the above list add the Mytilus crista gall '/, the dentalium, arco, tellina, and serpu- la, found in Collin glen, by Mr. Templeton. PREFACE. IX sura, which some suppose to be the pinna marina, so closelv conglomerated, and united by the arena* eous paste, that they seem, in some places, to compose almost the whole mass. Above the Mulatto lies a very thick stratum of white limestone, one of the purest carbonatesof lime, also containing belemnites in abundance, card i a more rarely, with flints ranged in horizontal Hues, and often, where it is traversed by a dyke, exhibiting a granular structure, like marble. The horizontal lines of its stra- tification being cut by vertical fissures, it has frequent- ly the appearance of huge quadrangular blocks, artifi- cially built on each other. Its snowy whiteness is strikingly and agreeably opposed to the dark basaltic precipices which rise magnificently above it, or share with it alternate possession of the beach ; and while it gives a clearness to the water, and a cheerfulness to the scene, affords a new instance of the beauty and harmony which nature produces by contrast. One of the most remarkable appearances which will next arrest the observer's attention, is the uncon- solidated stratum of mingled flints, limestone, and de- composed basalt, which immediately succeeds. The limestone is reddish, as if tinged by the oxydated iron of the basalt, the basalt friable as an earthy mould, and the flints shivery, as if they had undergone the action of intense heat. The flints, which lie in great- est number on the limestone, vary in colour from a light pink to a rosy red, and contain cavities with a yellow impalpable powder, or minute crystals. They are often striped, as if formed by successive deposi- tions, and exhibit manifest traces of corals, madre- pores, and other marine- exuviae, which are supposed X PREFACE. to have supplied the silicious matter, or to have served as its focus of attraction. Overtopping all is the great stratification of trap, with its subordinate divisions of green stone, porphy- ry-slate, trap-tufia, and amygdaloid. The solid trap and the amygdaloid alternate, as may be distinctly seen at the Knockagh, the former showing traces of incipient columnarity, the latter less rent into fissures, often very friable, and indented at its junction with the trap, thickly studded with zeolite, and of a dark grey, brown, or reddish colour. It would require fre- quent minute examinations to ascertain the order in which the different numerous strata of this formation succeed each other. There is also a stratum of an o- cherous vermilion red substance, which may be seen at the base of the precipice of the Cave-hill, but in much greater beauty and extent at Murlogh, and the Giants* Causeway. The porphyry slate, which may be easily distinguished by its slaty fracture, is ornamented with smail topaz-coloured crystals of chrysolite or olivin. Small brilliant crystals like sapphires, and opake crys- tals of shori, are found in some varieties of the trap ; that of Fairheadj which is so coarse as to resemble granite, contains augite. The vesicles of the amyg- daloid,* are almond-shaped, tubular, quadrangular, and a series of them is often connected together. They * This substance derives its name from the Greek u^cvy- elxXoc an almond, on account of its almond-shaped cavities.. These cavities vary from a line to an inch and a half, perhaps two inches in diameter. One of the finest specimens which I have seen was bought from one of the guides at the Giants' Caiiseway, by Dr. Ogilby. It is completely detached from PREFACE. XI are supposed to have been formed by air bubbles du- ring the deposition of the strata, and to have been af- terwards filled or lined by percolation, with the mat- ter by which they are now occupied. This is stea- tites, calcareous spar, calcedony, opal or zeolite. The last is very prevalent ; it is sometimes cubical, often stelliform, and in the beauty, delicacy, and arrange- ment of its crystals, vies with the thistle's down. As the characters of basaltic, or whin-stone moun- tains, the flcetz trap formation of Werner, are too ob- vious to be mistaken, the description of one may serve for the whole. On one side they generally present a steep precipice, and on the other fall away with a gra- dual slope. They are flat at the summit, whence they are denominated tabular, and in the bold outline of their profile, have the appearance of gigantic stairs, whence their German name of trap. To the valley of the Lagan succeed the vales of Gleno and Glynn ; the former, so named from its cir- cular shape, contains a beautiful water-fall, bleach- fields, and a very small village, situated so close to the bottom of the hill, that it is not observed by the traveller from the south, till he is immediately above it. On the beach near Gtynn, the anomia gryphus, and the vertebras pentacrinites, are found in abundance in a blue lime. To the N. W. stand the lofty and precipitous cliffs of Agnew's hill, said to be the loftiest hill in the county, and the village of every part of the parent rock, and forms a small brown box, which, when opened, displays a most beautiful crystallization. Dr. Ogilby has the merit of being the first discoverer of Stron- tian earth at Port na Spania. Xll PREFACE. Larne, at the distance of four miles east from it, in the valley beneath. E. of the bay of Lame, lies the penin- sula of Ma inguished by the long mural preci- pices of the Gobbins, v. hich may vary from 200 to 230 feet in height. The limestone which disappears at the commencement of this precipice, again becomes visible at its termination at Port Muck. We find it again on the shores of Lame, but if is lost at the Black cave. The next prominent object of attention is the promontory of Ballygelly, three miles distant from Larne.* Mere masses of irregularly prismatic basalt, and a range of gigantic pillars are first observed. The characteristic conformation of basaltic coun- tries prevails in the glens of Glenarai, Glenclye, Car- nalloch, and GlenarifF. The channel of Glenarm riv- er running over a bed of whin, abounds in cavities which vary in diameter from a few inches to several feet; a fact, which, as I have not seen it mentioned before, I have now deemed not unworthy of notice. These cavities are generally spherical, and shaped like the concavity of a pot, though they sometimes assume an elliptical form, as if two of them were united into one. They do not appear to have been formed by the fall of water, for they occur in a smooth bed of rock where there is no fall. Dr. McDonnell ingeniously conjectures, from my description, that they may have been formed by the wearing out of the globular con- * An unsuccessful attempt was made many years ago to discover coals at the Bank-heads, near Larne — Phosphores- cent sand -stone is found in the parish of Cairn castle, and some indications of a lead vein have lately presented themselves in Island Magee For a more minute account of Larne, Bal- lygelly, &c. consult the notes. PREFACE. Xlll cretions, with which trap is known to abound. It is thus that Nature lodges the seeds of dissolution in her most durable forms. The shores of Glenarm are composed of white limestone split into numerous fissures, and intersected on the beach by several massy dykes. One of these dvkes measures 26 feet in width, and presents the sin- gular appearance of granular limestone, inserted in a wedge-like form, in the center of its surface. At the distance of five miles from Glenarm, rises the sharp promontory of Garron point, exhibiting a beautifully diversified trapose outline, and projecting far into the sea, on a limestone base which has been wrought into caverns by the surge. Beyond this, and the romantic vale of Glenariff) on the western shores of Cushendall bay, we meet with a series of new ma- terials, a red sand-stone, in beds five or six feet thick, dipping to the east at a high angle ; porphyry in un- conformable strata, of a yellowish and blueish exter- nal surface, containing veins of jasper; and a curious breccia, or pudding-stone consisting of rounded peb- bles of quartz imbedded in a red sand-stone cement. The caverned rock on which Red Bay castle stands, and the grotesque caves of Cushendun, are formed of this material. Here also are several dykes; one cros- ses the road on the west side of Red Bay, and may be 30 or 40 feet wide ; the second, observable on the beach, is only nine inches broad, running in an irre- gular direction, and containing veins of calcareous spar, which do not extend to the adjoining beds. A third is four feet broad, of coarse-grained whin, and apparently consisting of three vertical strata. In Cushleak we meet with gneiss, mica slate, and XIV rilEFJLCB. granite. The shores of this region are bold, but not perpendicular, and they, as well as the neighbouring hills, by their rounded outline, indicate an arrange- ment different from that of the basaltic district. A dark blue primary or transition limestone with veins of chlorite and calcareous spar, occurs at the point of Tor; and at Murloch the primitive strata are seen dipping to the N. W. in an angle of about 45°. Free- stone occurs here between the strata of trap. Near the center of the grand semicircular sweep of this district, stands the conical mount of Drimnakill, with its massy pillars pointing to the sea. The ba- saltic formation which is here renewed, attains its highest elevation atFairhead, rising in proud mag- nificence over alternate strata of freestone and coal, and thence gradually sloping down to the strand of Ballycastle. The limestone which had disappeared, rises again to claim our attention under new circum- stances at Kenbann. Here it is seen both above and below, and imbedded in the basalt, and at Port Cairn it forms one side of a cave, whose other side is of trap. At Knocksoghy and Carrie karede it is lost under a solid unstratified mass of trap, but emerges at the high cliffs of Lirrybann, and forms a beautiful and diversified barrier to Ballintoy and Whitepark strand. Beyond this the basaltic arrangement keeps undivided possession of the shore for several miles. It attains its greatest altitude at Pleaskin, and thence slopes away to the Bushfoot strand, exhibiting a most regular stratification of columnar, irregularly pris- matic, and tabular basalt. West of Dunluce cas- tle the limestone appears once more, forming a pre- cipitous shore, and split into a variety of fantastic TREFACE. XV shapes. It is lost at Portrush, where the chert, petrosilex, or silicious basalt, abounding with impres- sions of the cornu ammonis, many of which are pyri- tous, and emulate the splendour of gold, rises to puz- zle the geologist. The limestone emerges for the last time, in this extensive range of coast, at Magilligan strand in the county of Londonderry, a strand of great beauty, and of such extent, that the whole army of Phorcus, and all the marine deities might find it spa- cious enough for a review. Having taken this rapid view of the general fea- tures of the coast, let us return to the Giants' Cause- way, the principal object of our present attention. The Giants' Causeway consists of three moles, composed of basaltic columns, projecting into the sea from the middle of the semicircular bay of Port Nof- fer. The largest of these moles, known by the name of the grand Causeway, extends in a sloping direc- tion from the base of the clitf* about 300 feet, when it immerges into the ocean. Supposing it once to have had a horizontal position, it has received a slight twist, by which the pillars, where it dips into the sea, have an inclination to the east, while those at the commencement have a small inclination to the west. On the east side stands the giants' loom, a collonnade, about 36 feet high ;* and in the opposite clifFmay be seen a group of columns known by the name of the organ, to tbe pipes of which instrument it has a stri- king 1 resemblance. * Here also may be seen the giant's well, chair, and thea- tre. The king and parliament too, in full divan! XVI PREFACE. Each of the moles, beheld from a short distance, presents the appearance of a most regular pavement; nor is the admiration excited by this regularity dimin- ished on closer inspection. It is now seen that it is not a superficial covering of mosaic, but a solid struc- ture of pillars united to pillars, close as the cells of a honeycomb. The pillars are formed of a remarka- ably fine-grained, compact basalt,* and are separa- ble into distinct joints or articulations, which may vary in length from six to twelve inches, and in breadth, from twelve to twenty. The upper and low- er extremity of each joint is concave or convex. The concave is indented with a groove near the cir- cumference, and furnished with a projection from one of its sides, or angles, by which it is locked so close- ly to the ball of its respective joint, that a separation is not often effected without a fracture of that pro- jection. The prevailing forms are pentagonal, hexa- gonal, and heptagonal. Some of them on first inspeo * The Wernerians, I understand, call it green stone. I must, however, be allowed to retain the name by which it has been so long and so universally known.. ..The word basalt is derived by some writers from the Greek Bci, I use as a touch-stone ; by others, from the Hebrew Barzal, iron or Ba- sal, baked or burned. Pliny describes it as a rock of iron co- lour and hardness. " Invenit eadem JEgyptus in ^Ethiopia quem vocant basaltem, ferrei colons atque duritia^; unde et no- men ei dedit." The celebrated statue of Memnon, said to emit musical sounds, when struck by the first rays of the sun, was formed of this rock. It is generally described as of a greyish black colour, crystalline texture, compact, fine splintery, or flat conchoidal fracture; specific gravity, 2, 9; strikes fire with flint; has a metallic sound ; affects the magnetic needle, and is fusible per se. See Kirwan's Mineralogy. PREFACE. XV11 tion might be mistaken for squares, by reason of the shortness of one or two of their sides. Between each of the Causeways are large rounded masses of irregularly prismatic basalt. To the west- ward at Port Coon, the rock is composed of distinct globular concretions. These concretions may be about a foot in diameter, though often not more than two or three inches, formed of concentric pellicles like an o- nion, and dotted with crystals of cubical iron py- rites. Of the whin dykes which abound almost every where on the coast, a fine specimen may be seen at the head of the grand Causeway,* and another at the Sea-gull isle. These dykes are walls of whinstone, trap, or prismatic basalt, varying from a few inches to 40 or 50 feet in breadth, penetrating to an unknown depth, and often attended by a softening, or an in- duration, and a dislocation of the strata through which they pass. Sometimes two of these walls or veins are seen running in parallel lines, and when they are interrupted by a chasm or arm of the sea, they rise on the opposite side with the same distance and parallelism. Thus a continuation of the Antrim dykes is traced on the Scottish shores. Let us now attend for a moment to the general impression made on the mind by the contemplation 6f the scenery of Port Nofter. As to the Giants' Cause- *This dyke is 15 or 16 feet wide, and composed of hori- zontal prisms. The pillars on the west side of it are horizon- tal, those on the east, vertical. Dykes derive their name from serving as fences in the North of Scotland. See Dr. Richardson's paper on Whin Dykes. 2 XV 111 PREFACE. way, the first feelings of some on beholding it are those of disappointment, arising probably from their having formed extravagant ideas of its magnitude.* The savage grandeur of Fairhead, or of Port na Spa- ilia, Pleaskin, and Bengore, contemplated from the water, would probably reflect a more faithful image of the picture in their minds. The Giants' Causeway itself is comparatively small and insignificant ; and it derives its chief importance from the surrounding scenery, and from association with its creative cause. But even the scenery of Port Noft'er, especially if be- held on n serene day, is not of that imposing kind which immediately overwhelms the senses with aston- ishment. It is sedate and majestic, not ostentatious and obtrusive. Its character is to be developed not by a rapid giance, but attentive examination. It may be compared to that species of picture named pa- norama, and to comprehend its beauty it must be con- sidered in detail. Such however are far from being the feelings of the majority of spectators. Many at the first glance are penetrated with admiration, and are ready to ex- claim, " Here. is the temple, and the altar of nature, * Those who have been accustomed to rocky and mountain- ous scenery, will behold such scenes as the coast of Antrim af- fords, under very different impressions from those who are familiar only with pasture grounds and gardens. An inhabi- tant of the Alps would probably see but little grandeur in our basaltic mountains, though a Cockney who has never strayed beyond the suburbs of London would be struck with as much terror as Gray felt in the vale of Keswick. I have heard of a colonel who was so much overpowered by his fears on going down the approach to the Giants' Causeway, that he required .*wo or three brother officers to support him! PREFACE. XIX devised by her own ingenuity, and executed with a symmetry and grace, a grandeur and a boldness which Mature only could accomplish. Those cliffs fa- ced with magnificent columns; those broken precipi- ces of vermilion-coloured rock ; yon insulated pil- lars, obelisks erected before Greece boasted of her ar- chitectural skill, or Egypt laid the foundation of her pyramids, proclaim the power and wisdom of their creator. This mole too, so firmly bound and cemen- ted, surpasses the harmony of art, and in stability and grandeur, sets all efforts of rivalship at defi- ance. It is a monument saved from the convulsion which sunk a continent, and produced the disruption of the isles. For a period beyond all written records t has borne the fury of the waves and tempests, yet still it is solid and unimpaired as when it was first laid, and it seems to claim a duration coeval with the struc- ture of the world/' After examining the external appearance of the scene, the mind is naturally prompted to enquire into the cause of so extraordinary a formation. The sim- ple inhabitants of the coast, seeing it composed with such an appearance of art and regularity, and unable to account for it by any of the known operations of nature, ascribed it to the hands of giants."* Fin Mac * General Vallancey says that the old name of the Giants' Causeway is Cloch na Fomoraic, or the stone of the Carthagi. nians . " Fomoraic may signify sea commanders, but it also signifies a Giant, or great person, from Fo y a prince, mor, great, raic, strong or mighty." "It was also called Binguthar, the Giants' cape, or rather the sacred or admirable promontory, from GutJiar, Gaur, Goor, a Druid, prophet, sacred admirable person or thing, and Bin t Ben, a cape or headland. Collectanea, XX PREFACE. Cumhal, the great hero of Irish romance, and who, according to some traditions, rose to the enormous stature of 15 cubits, became the imaginary architect. The columnar appearance of the little island of Staffa which lies nearly in the same meridian, suggested the idea that it had formerly been connected to the shores of Port No'ffer, and that the object of the Irish Titans, in the construction of so stupendous a work, was to facilitate their march to the Hebrides, to chastise the inhabitants of those islands, for their predatory excursions to the shores of Ireland. It is curious to observe how generally the belief in Giants has prevailed. The classical reader does not require to be reminded of the distinguished part which they act in heathen mythology. The inhabi- tants of Iceland ascribe the vast basaltic masses of that island to the same agency ; and we have only to con- sult the Edda to find that Giants, "or the sons of frost/' have the same important task to fill in the my- thology of the north, as in that of Greece. The ge- neral ascription of such phenomena as exceed the or- dinary power of mortals, to the labour of Giants, shows the proneness of the human mind to theorize, and its willingness to adoptor invent any theory rather than remain in suspense. In Ma Geoghegan* history of Ireland written in French and published in Paris, M,DCC,LVIII. the following curious passage occurs in the first Chapter. "Lachaussee des Geants est-elle un ouvrage de la nature ou de Parte? c'est une question controversee parmi les Scavans d'Angleterre & d'Irelande. Ceux qui pretendent que c'est un efifet de la nature, PREFACE. XXI le prouvent geometriquement : lis citent un tfoe- oreme d'Euclide, suivant Iequel il n'y a que trois figures qui puissent former une surface unie & con- tinue, scavoir, six triangles equilateraux, quatre quarres et trois hexagones. Or, disent ils, ces regies de I'artn'ontpointtete observes dans la chaussee de Ge- ants, qui est faites de poligones a cotes inegaux, quoi- qu J ils s'adaptent fort bien aux cotes opposes des pil- iers voisins, ce qui ne peut etre attribue qu'a une intelligence superieure: d'ailleurs, ajoutent-ils, la jonction des pieces qui forment les piliers, paroit etre un ouvrage de la nature : car dans toutes les autres colonnes tant anciennes que modernes, les pieces sont jointes par des surfaces planes; et on ne concoit pas comment Particulation des pierres qui composent cette chaussee, peut avoir ete faites sans une infinite d'outils qui nous sont inconnus Ce raisonnement, quoique plausible, n' est pas bien satisfaisant; car ou- tre qu' il ne suffit pas de ne pas concevoir une chose pour en pouvoir nier l'existence, il est certain qui les arts ont eu leurs revolutions, et qu'il y en a eu beaucoup qui ont ete en vigueur autrefois, et qui ne sont pas parvenus jusqu'a nous. We need not wonder at this observation, since there are many even now among the vulgar great, as well as among the vulgar little, who are contented with the theory of the giants. Philosophers however have long been of a different opinion, and it now re- mains only to trace the history of their enquiries. This task has been so fully and ably excuted by Kir- wan and Hamilton, that little more is left for me, than the pleasure of abridging their more detailed ac- counts. XXH PKEFACE. Towards the conclusion of the 17th century, when a spirit of philosophical investigation began to be dif- fused by the exertions of the Royal Society, descrip- tions were written, drawings made, and theories for- med, to account for the formation of so extraordinary a phenomenon. The descriptions and drawings were in general very incorrect. The wild and rugged sce- nery of Port Noffer was adorned with groves and hou- ses, by the imagination of the artist; and a philoso- phical observer, a Cambridge Master of arts, descri- bed the basaltic pillars as four-squared cylinders, with- out joints ! In 1740, the attention of philosophers which had lain dormant for nearly half a century upon this sub- ject, was again excited by two beautiful engravings of the Giants' Causeway, from paintings by Mrs. Su- sannah Drury, which had obtained the premium ap- pointed for the encouragement of arts, in Ireland. Soon after this, Dr. Pococke made a tour of the coun- ty of Antrim, and gave a theory of basaltes, in which lie supposes that they were formed by successive fits •f precipitation from a watery medium, that at first they were erect cylinders, touching only in right lines, and that while they were yet in a soft state, they yielded to the encreasing pressure from above, and spread themselves out so as to fill up the vacuities, and thus became polygonal articulated pillars. The circumstance which led to a more minute in- vestigation of the origin of basalt, was the discovery of some ancient volcanoes, now extinct, in Auvergne, by M. Guethard, of the Royal Academy of Paris, in 1757. Desmaretz, in 1763, travelling through the same country, saw a multitude of basaltic pillars, and PREFACE. XX12I afterwards some articulated columns similar to those of the Giants' Causeway, which, from their eternal appearance, and concomitant minerals, he pronoun- ced to be of volcanic origin, and supposed that gra- nite was the mother stone. The same opinion derived support from M. Raspe, in 1771 ; and in 1774, M. Monnet deeming it absurd to suppose that so regular a conformation could take place during a volcanic e- ruption, concluded that basaltes were formed in the bosom of the volcano where they were originally fu- sed. Mr. Hamilton espoused this hypothesis, and en- deavoured to prove that they were crystallized from a state of tranquil fusion by slow refrigeration in ihe focus of a volcano, which was rent and exposed by sub- sequent convulsions. The Neptunists were not inactive during this pe- riod. In 1777, the volcanic hypothesis met a formi- dable adversary in the celebrated Bergman. And at length, the arguments adduced by Neptunists and Volcanists seemed to balance each other so equally, that philosophers began to suspect that basalt might originate in some instances from water, and in others from fire. It was reserved for Werner of Fribourg to give a deadly blow* to the volcanic system. Having observed the transition of basalt into wacken, ofwack- en into clay, and of this clay into quartzy sand, a substance never suspected of having any but an aque- ous origin, by an easy application of the fundamental laws of mineralogy, inferred that basalt must also have been formed in the same fluid. * Kirwau. XXIV PREFACE. Br. Richardson has lately distinguished himself by several papers on basaltic subjects, and his decided hostility to every theory except his own, which he has lately advanced. He does not, as far as I know, attempt any explanation of the mode in which basal- tes were formed, but confines himself to the general structure and arrangement of the strata. He contends that all our present strata are the undisturbed re- mains of a great tract of country which has been swept away by some powerful cause acting vertically from above. The Cave-hill, Sleimis, Banyavenagb, and other basaltic mountains, are, according to his conjecture, like so many rocks which have withstood the powerful corrosion of the force which swept away the surrounding and connecting materials; a corrosion so violent, that it not only scooped out extensive vai- lies, but stripped whole mountainous districts, as that of the Sandy braes, which is four miles in diameter, of the basaltic stratification with which he supposes it to have been covered. What this cause was, the Doc- tor leaves his readers to conjecture, and he is decided that it was neither fire nor water. Was the tail of Whiston's comet the besom of destruction with which our vallies were swept ? To enter into an examination of this hypothesis, would be incompatible with the limits of a preface, al- ready so prolix. Nevertheless, it may be observed that if the strata, were once horizontal, some powerful cause acting from beneath, such a cause as we know to exist, may have caused the present dislocation: and the same cause might also produce the perpendicular elevation of our promontories, and their disruption from the strata, with which they were once continuous. i i ; m¥* U*< PREFACE. XXV We know of no cause in nature acting vertically from above, in the mariner supposed by Dr. Richardson, and we may question the philosophy of assuming new and unknown agencies, while those which are known are fully adequate to produce the ellect. That there is a known cause fully adequate, is obvious to all who have read of the effects of a volcano, not to speak of the more powerful and extensive influence of earth- quakes. If any cause had swept away a superincum- bent stratification, we should expect to find the debris along our shores, forming gentle declivities down to the beach, and not a continued series of stupendous precipices, three, four, and five hundred feet high. Or shall we suppose that the strata were carried in an op- posite direction, and that Lough Neagh was the grand Recipient prepared by nature for absorbing the vast debris ? the most fiery Huttonian could not desire a more sweeping fact than this. " That a great system of disintegration has been carried on, and is still in progress, is sufficiently apparent. But we see where the debris has been transported, in the alluvial soil bounding the channel of our rivers. Play fair supposes rivers in the lapse of ages fully competent to produce vallies, and conse- quently cause a discontinuity of the strata. Eut why not suppose original inequalities produced by particu- lar deposites ; or, what is more probable, by a pertur- bing force from beneath ? " Obliquity of direction, the Dr. observes, must have been the result of a disturbing cause from below, whereas, parallelism, and a steady rectilineal course, distinguish the basaltic arrangement of this promonto- ry." (Bengore.) 3 XXVI PREFACE. Have not the whole of the strata of the promonto- ry in question an oblique direction, though parallel with respect to each other ? But though we had not these unequivocal proofs of a disturbing cause from beneath, its agency, notwithstanding, might be admit- ted, A disturbing force does not necessarily imply the universal obliquity, contortion, and disruption of the strata. Such a concussion as was felt by the great- er part of Europe, at the time of the eartho^ake of Lisbon might produce awful changes in the general system, might bury half a continent in the waves, and leave the other half without any change in the rela- tive position of its materials. From the similarity of the materials which com- pose Rathlin and the opposite coast of Antrim, it has been conjectured that they w r ere once united. And it is not impossible that Rathlin may have been actu- ally severed from Ireland, though it seems more pro- bable that the strata by which they were connected, nay, that a tract of country extending to the Hebrides, and literally joining StafFa to the Giants' Causeway, has been engulfed in the deep. In the third book of the following poem and notes, I have attempted to give a brief description of the three principal theories which endeavour to account for the formation of basaltes, without having professed a decided attachment to any. On a subject in which such a diversity of opinion prevails among the most distinguished philosophers, it is by no means easy to arrive at a determinate con- clusion. The favourite hypothesis of yesterday is o- verthrown by the newly-discovered facts of to-day. The candid enquirer, who has not been educated as PREFACE. XXVll the disciple of any school, will often find his situation similar to that of Menippus in Lucian. The argu- ments brought by one class of philosophers were puc with such force, that he could not deny the very same substance to be warm, which others, by arguments equally strong, demonstrated to be cold, though he was perfectly assured that it was impossible for the same thing to be both hot and co\d at the same time. Now the aqueous, and now the igneous theory pre- vails. We must leave it to time, and the accumula- tion of new facts to decide between them. An amateur, like me, who has not advanced beyond the threshold of the temple of Geological Science, must beg indulgence of the reader for presuming to touch this subject. " Into the hell of hells I have presumed, A sacred guest, and breathed infernal air." There is more reason for this apology 3 as the subject is already in the hands of one fully qualified to do it justice. From Dr. Mac Donnell, the zealous friend and encourager of genius in all its departments, and to whose liberal communications I have been fre- quently and largely indebted, the world may soon ex- pect a detailed and satisfactory account of the miner- alogy of the county of Antrim. From my esteemed friend, Mr. S. Bryson, I have received most of the derivations of the Irish names which occur in the notes. Mount Colli) er, Nov. 1811. ERRATA. Page 30, line 10, for new-born, read new-formed. — page 97, line 9, for entwine read untwine — 139, line 3 from the bottom, for lime- stone, read sand-stone — see the preface for a more minute account of the strata of this hill. — 1 44, I. 5, for quartz, read calcareous spar — 169, 1. 16 from the bot- tom, for exaggeration, read aggravation. — Besides these, there are several typographical errors which the reader may easily detect and rectify. POEMS EY THE SAME AUTHOR. The Battle of Trafalgar, a poem in two books, price 5s. British. Translation of the first Book of Lucretius into English verse; for character see Monthly Review, Dec. 1S09. price 5s. Printed for Longman, &c. London; Doig and Steven- son, Edinburgh ; and Archer and Ward, Belfast. THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. ARGUMENT. Address to the Genius of the shores... .Morning....General description of the coast of Antrim....Giants' Causeway.... Question whence it originated....Fion Mac Cumhal....His object in connecting Ireland to Staffa by a mole. ...Con- struction of the Causeway....Fion's cave....March of the Giants....Albin struck with dismay, invokes the aid of the Scandinavian Gods. ...Odin.... He commands the ministers of his power to destroy the mole....The Giants changed into stone... .Ossian....Traditionary and historic recollections.... ...Ancient flourishing state of Learning in Ireland..... Honours, influence, persecution and extinction of the Bards ....The Druid's altar....His prophecy....Columba„..Dunluce castle....Contrast of the present state of civilization and improvement, with the former barbarous manners of the country... Address to the Lagan... THE GIANTS* CAUSEWAY, BOOK FIRST. C>OME lonely Genius of my natal shore, From cave or bower, wild glen, or mountain hoar; And while by ocean's rugged bounds I muse^ Thy solemn influence o'er my soul diffuse j Whether thou wanderest o'er the craggy steep, Where the lorn spirits of the tempest weep, Or rov'st with trackless footsteps o'er the waves, Or wak'st the echoes of thy hundred caves; With joy I hail thy visionary form, Rough, dark, august, and clad in night and storm ; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. To me more dear thy rocky realm by far, The cliff, the whirlwind, and the billowy war, Than e'en the loveliest scenes which Flora yields, Her myrtle bowers, or incense-breathing fields. Yet mid thy rocks might some wild flowrets bloom, And first for me exhale their sweet perfume, Yielding a chaplet to my vagrant muse, Blooming and pearled with fresh Parnassian dews ; Though tempests roared in every dark-browed cave, And wild beneath me burst the yawning wave, O'er the high steep how ardent would I rise, Elate with hope to seize the glorious prize ! How sweet to wander here when orient day Tinges with roseate hue the milky spray ! What time the Spring from Winter's bondage clear, Wakes into life and joy the infant year; When smile the cloudless heavens, and western gales Sport in the tumbling billows' glassy vales. See ! where exulting o'er the azure field, The day's bright regent lifts his golden shield, THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. • j Round, dazzling, vast, ethereal world of flame, That warms, illumes, sustains this beauteous frame. Roll on bright orb, in peerless splendour roll ; To worlds on worlds the life-diffusing soul : Around thy path what nameless glories stream, Fire the blue vault, and o'er the billows gleam, As if the heavens revealed to mortal sight, Their topaz pavements in a blaze of light ; And through the morn's red portals poured abroad, Life, love, and rapture, from the throne of God. Burnished with gold, the cliffs resplendent shine, And cast their shadows in the glancing brine, Trembling and soft, as though the magic hand Of some cerulean nymph, in colours bland, Had traced the scene, and back to nature gave Her beauteous image from the pictured wave. Light flit the vapours o'er the distant hill, The prospect opens wide and wider still ; Cantire's blue heights with purple radiance glow, And Jura's paps yet white with winter snow ; Bright o'er the billows shine the sparkling isles, And heaven on earth with boundless beauty smiles. 6 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. O thou whose soul the muses' lore inspires, Whose bosom science warms, or genius fires, If nature charm thee in her wildest forms, Throned on the cliff 'midst cataracts and storms ; Or with surpassing harmony arrayed, In pillared mole, or towering colonnade, Seek Dalriada's wild romantic shore — Wind through her vallies, and her capes explore. Let folly's sons to lands far distant roam, And praise the charms of every clime but home, Yet sure such scenes can Dalriada boast, As please the painter and the poet most ; Swift torrents foaming down the mountain side, Rocks that in clouds grotesque their summits hide, Gigantic pyramids, embattled steeps, Bastions and temples nodding o'er the deeps, Aerial bridges o'er vast fissures thrown, Triumphal arches, gods of living stone, iEolian antres, thunder-rifted spires, And all the wonders of volcanic fires. Here broken, shattered, in confusion dread, Towers, bridges, arches, gods and temples spread : THE GIANTS* CAUSEWAY. 7 Stupendous wrecks, where awful wildness reigns! While all th J ideal forms which fancy feigns Sweep the dun rack, and to the poet's eyes, In many a strange embodied shape arise. In scenes like these did Collins first behold Pale Fear, and Danger's limbs of Giant mould; Gray poured the sorrows of his Cambrian lyre, And mighty Shakespeare breathed heaven's pure ethe- real fire. Ye cliffs and grots where boding tempests wail, Ye terraced capes, ye rocks, ye billows hail : Amazing scene, how wild, how wondrous grand, In circuit vast, the pillared shores expand ! Great fane of God ! where nature sits enshrined, Pouring her inspiration o'er the mind. — Mid pointed obelisks, and rocky bowers, And tessellated moles, and giant towers, She reigns sublime ; while round her throne repair The fleet-winged spirits of the sea and air, And through yon pillars, organ of the blast, When sounding Boreas bends the groaning mast, 8 THE GIANTS CAUSEWAY. Bid the long deep majestic anthem rise, In mighty concert to the echoing skies, And warring floods Dark o'er the foam-white waves, The giants' pier the war of tempests braves, A far projecting, firm, basaltic way Of clustering columns wedged in dense array; With skill so like, yet so surpassing art, With such design, so just in every part. That reason pauses, doubtful if it stand The work of mortal, or immortal hand. Ye favoured few, whom nature's partial care Leads through the realms of ocean, earth and air; Who read with piercing eye her various laws, Mark each effect, and trace the latent cause ; But chief do thou Mac Donnell, taught to scan Each form and feature of the beauteous plan, Declare did Ocean, in his secret bed, When erst his waves the shoreless world o'erspread* Or central fires, or fierce volcanic flame, In sulphurous gulf profound, the wonder frame ? THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. < 'The sportive fancy of th' untutored swain, j To wonder prone, and slave to error's reign, Unskilled to search how nature's plastic hand Moulds the rough rock, and forms the solid land ; To Fion, ruler of the giant line, Ascribes the glory of the strange design; And fondly deems, though reason spurn the thought, That human power the massy fabric wrought. Nor let the sage, in lettered pride severe, The simple legend with impatience hear. From Albin oft, when darkness veiled the pole, Swift o'er the surge the tartaned plunderers stole. And Erin's vales with purple torrents ran, Beneath the claymores of the murd'rous clan j Till Cumhal's son, to Dalriada's coast, Led the tall squadrons of his Finnian host, Where his bold thought the wondrous plan designed. The proud conception of a giant mind, To bridge the ocean for the march of war, And wheel round Albin's shores his conquering car. For many a league along the quarried shore, .Each storm-swept cape the race gigantic tore; 10 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. And though untaught by Grecian lore to trace The Doric grandeur, or Corinthian grace; Not void of skill in geometric rules, With art disdaining all the pride of schools, Each mighty artist, from the yielding rock, Hewed many a polished, dark, prismatic block; One end was modelled Like the rounded bone, One formed a socket for its convex stone ; Then side to side and joint to joint they bound, Columns on columns locked, and mound on mound: Close as the golden cells which bees compose, So close they ranged them in compacted rows, Till rolling time beheld the fabric rise, Span the horizon, and invade the skies, And, curved concentric to the starry sphere, Mount o'er the thunder's path, and storm's career t To Stafia's rock th' enormous arch they threw, And Albin trembled as the wonder grew. Thus Death and Sin, when from the realms of night, They traced through chaos the archangel's flight, Chained to hell's beach a mole of wondrous length. And raised a bridge of adamantine strength. THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 11 Connecting earth and hell ; a spacious road, Smooth, sloping downward to th' accurs'd abode. When first to StafTa's cavern'd shores they came, They reared a palace of stupendous frame, "Worthy their chief, and honoured by his name : Deep in the surge, the broad dense base they spread, And raised to heaven the massy columns' head ; High rose the rock-woYe arch, and o'er the flood, Like Xeptune's fane the pillared structure stood, Solemn, and grand beyond the laboured pile Of Gothic fane, or minster's vaulted aisle. Oft has its wild harmonious echoes rung, As minstrels sweet to deeds of glory strung Their deep-toned harps, or warrior chieftains strong Raised the loud chorus of the martial song. Now the lone sea-bird's melancholy wail Sounds through the vault, and leads them urmuriog sale - While thundering Ocean all his billows calls, And rolls in foam along the fluted walls. That back return such harmony of sound. As if an hundred bards were ranged around, 12 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAYS Bowed o'er the columns, striving to disarm The tempest's rage by music's sweetest charm ; Or Ossian's thrilling harp, suspended high, Trilled by iEolian minstrels' pensive sigh, Awoke such notes as saints delighted hear. Or angel spirits pour on mortal ear- Now armed for war, along their iron road, Stern in their ire, the giant warriors strode ; As files on files advanced in serried might, How flashed their arms' intolerable light; Casques, shields and spears, and banners floating gay* And mail-clad steeds, and chariots' proud array, Bright glancing as the fires which heaven adora, When fair Aurora brings the boreal morn ! Thus monstrous forms o'er heaven's nocturnal arch, Seen by the sage, in pomp celestial march; See Aries there his glittering brow unfold, And raging Taurus toss his horns of gold; With bended bow the sullen Archer lowers, And there Aquarius comes with all his showersj THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 13 Lions and Centaurs, Gorgons, Hydras rise, And Gods and Heroes blaze along the skies* Then mighty deeds that giant race had wrought, And bold beyond the muse's boldest thought; Had dared, perchance, with unresisted sway, To force to Scandia's shores their onward way; Or like their earth-born sires, infuriate driven, Had matched their arms against the might of heaven : But deep dismay spread Albin's shores around, When crouding frequent to each sacred mound Of rocks, or crags that ne'er felt chisel's stroke, By hill or glen, or wood of hallowed oak ; Bards, Druids, Warriors, as their altars blaze, For aid, for vengeance loud petitions raise; Three days thrice told, on Odin loud they call, Each day sees thrice three human victims fail, " Rise mighty Odin, rise in power divine, And sink to Hela's gulf our foes and thine, These sons of Frost, whom mad ambition goads To brave thy power, and scale thy blest abodes." 14 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Throned on dark clouds, dread Odin heard from far, In icy realms beneath the northern star, Where in Valhalla's courts his warlike train Quaff the brown draught from skulls of heroes slain : Deep-moved he rose, and soon with loud alarms Heaven's pavements rang, as Odin rushed to arms. Swift down the bow of many a fulgent dye, Bridge of the Gods, th' immortal footsteps hie ; Hail, sleet and darkness o'er his bosom spread, The rush of waters roared around his head, While wrapt in light'ning and devouring storm, He swept the winds, a dim terrific form; Aloft in wrath his brandished arm he raised, Bright in his hand the hissing thunder blazed, While on the centre of the arch he stood, And sent his potent mandate o'er the flood. "Arise," he cried, f ye ministers of ire, Ye hurricanes, ye floods, and red-winged fire; Arise, go forth in congregated might, And whelm these impious toils in lasting night." THE GIANTS CAUSEWAY. 15 Then livid fires the vault of heaven o'ercast, High rose the floods, and furious howled the blast ; Then Lochlin's Gods in might resistless came; Thor's mace impetuous smote the trembling frame; The sister fates,, twelve dark tremendous shades, Sang their dire spells, and waved their shining blades, While Loke and Hela, from their chains unbound, Shook to its rooted base the yawning ground : Then tossed each isle, and cliff, and rugged steep, Wild rolled the mountains like a stormy deep, And crashing, roaring, thundering loud to heaven, Down rushed the arch, in shattered fragments riven, With horrid din, as if th* exploding ball, And heaven's rent pillars mingled in their fall. Deep in the dreary caves of ocean lie The ponderous ruins far from mortal eye : Yet each abutment of the structure stands A proud memorial of the giant bands, Through earth's extended realms renowned afar, As great in peace, and terrible in war. And then, if earth to heaven in arms opposed, Might aught avail, in conflict had they closed 16 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. With Lochlin's gods, and Odin, taught to feel, Had rued the dint of Fion's better steel. But by enchanted spells unnerv'd they stood, Fixed to the beach, till horror chilled their blood, And total change pervading nerve and bone, Hard grew their limbs, and all were turned to stone. Now oft their shadowy spectres, flitting light, Croud to their favourite mole at noon of night, In fancy's eye, the curious toil pursue, And all the tasks that pleased in life renew. One, huge of stature, dark beneath the gloom, Grasps in his brawny hand the mimic loom ; One rides the lion rock ; in cadence low, One bids the organ's beauteous structure blow ; While far aloof on yon lone column's height, Their Lord and Hero glories in the sight. Thus grey Tradition tells the wondrous tale, And Fancy's visions thus for truth prevail. What forms august of kings and heroes bold Bear my rapt spirit to the times of old ? Genius of Ossian ! say what rocky dell Hears the wild inspiration of thy shell ? THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 17 What mighty spirits of thy sires renowned, Bow from their airy halls to hear the sound ? Ah me ! no more these whispering rocks among Floats the sweet voice of minstrelsy and song ; Around the blazing oak, no Finnian train Hear their loved Ossian's soul-subduing strain ; Xo more they mingle in the war's alarms, Nor hail the glorious din of death in arms : The wild heath blossoms o'er their mountain bed, Dark in the house of breathless slumber spread ; A high-heaped cairn of grey unsculptured stones, Raised to the storm, protects the heroes' bones; There dumb oblivion spreads her Stygian wings, And the shrill blast their sullen requiem sings. But still the heaven-rapt bard, whose glowing mind Not Death can hold, nor Hell's strong limits bind, Around these capes beholds their spirits roam, Sees their light corraghs ride the northern foam : Shields, spears, and crested helms around him start, And sounds celestial vibrate to his heart. 18 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY, Oft he recals those mournful days of yore. When blazed the baleful war-torch round the shore, As through the rampired cliffs the battle-horn Pealed its shrill echoes on the ear of morn ; When rival clans, with fell ambition strove, Inspired by glory, dire revenge, or love. And now he cons how Deirdre's fatal charms Roused all the valour of the isle to arms : How great Tirowen on the Saxon horde Proved the keen temper of Ultonia's sword ; Or Sourlebuoy, from lonely glen or hill, Poured through the martial pipe his pibrock shrill: 'Till Aura, tinged with many a crimson spring, Heard Erin's steel on Albin's target ring, And saw the wily Gael, turned from flight, Roll on his scattered foes the storm of fight. — Now— to the heughs of black polluted shade* He sees the fierce Monro, with gory blade Sweep like a driving flame before the wind, And headlong hurl the poor defenceless hind. * Anon he hears, round Derry's castled walls, Dire Famine howling as the warrior falls, THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 19 Sees the pale mother with despairing eye, Clasp to her milkless breast her babe and die. Hark ! the boom crashes — heaven impels the sail ; Thou man of men, hail patriot Walker, hail ! Muse of historic lore, to fame unfold The glowing page of Erin's days of gold What time her hordes the ever-teeming north Sent, like the storms of desolation forth ; Loud shrieked the genius of expiring Rome, And Learning, Arts and Science wept their doom, 'Till exiled far from Latiura's prostrate fanes, They poured their radiance on Ierne's plains ; Then heard these rocks Sicilian muses sing, The reed's soft warblings, and the epic string; Then Peace, in wilds like these, her temple raised, Here the pure altars of Religion blazed; Joy rang the harp, and heaven's according smile Approved the lay, and blessed the holy isle. O age of glory ! age for ever fled ! Shades of my fathers ! spirits of the dead ! 20 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Is Erin's fame deep buried in your urn, Cold in the grasp of death no more to burn. Oh ! has the harp's last chord to sorrow strung, The funeral dirge of Erin's glory rung ? Then burst indignant — scorning more to raise A cold and lifeless recreant nation's praise ! Mute, mute the harp ! for ever lost the art Which roused to rapture each Milesian heart; Cold, cold the hands whose thrilling touch sublime Caught the rapt ear, and stayed the flight of time ! With blasting dews the charmer lies o'erspread, Burst every chord-— her soul for ever fled ! Yet, with regret, let memory fond retrace The long lost honours of the tuneful race, When all their souls with holy ardour fired, In Erin's youth the patriot flame inspired, And rolled the rapid dithyrambic strain, To urge them furious on the robber Dane ; When fell Turgesius, on th' ensanguined coast, Raised the proud banners of his pirate host; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 21 Or Cnutus, royal plunderer, seized with fear, Felt on Clontarf the might of Erin's spear. Wild as they sung, pale Scandia loud deplored Her raven, smote beneath the Finnian sword. But when they changed their varying chords, they bound Each raging passion in the chains of sound; Love, pity, rapture, all the world of soul, Hung on their strings, and owned their bland controul. Oft on these shores they bade the youth advance, With measured footstep, to the martial dance, Or with a solemn, slow, majestic tread, Round the tall tower the holy circuit led ; Or when the mountain tops, in splendour bright, Roused all their fires to hail the god of light, In loftier tones the hallowed numbers flowed, And raised to heaven the spirit-breathing ode, Then first in glory, as in worth they moved, By nations honoured, and by monarchs loved. When Albion's vanes first waved on Erin's strand, And Saxon craft had rent the bleeding land, I THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. While rival chiefs their country's life assailed, And Discord triumphed where the sword had failed, Swift fell Oppression's vengeful bolts among The sacred sons of liberty and song. Oh power accursed ! oh ill-requited race ! Pride of the land, her glory and disgrace ! For this did Erin's love your harps inspire, For this heaven touch your souls with living fire ? Crushed, banished, bleeding, in what lonely glade, Rose like the wounded bird's in deepest shade, Your dirge of death, — while Freedom sat and sighed. O'er the fall'n wreath of Erin's withered pride ? By rocks like these that heard the eagle's scream, Or wolf, loud howling by the moon's pale beam, Or on the battle field, o'er heaps of dead, Where Erin's sons by mutual wounds had bled, The blood-stained harp bade all its sorrows flow, So wildly sweet, with such prevailing woe, That yet its echoes, faintly though they roll Down time's long current, rouse and thrill the soul. Oft too it raised its loud commanding strains, Bold as the spirit in the patriot's veins, THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 23 For Erin's warriors, in collected might, To grasp the spear of Liberty and Right, And like their sires, in terrible array, Again renew Clontarf's illustrious day. — — Now mute its voice — Oblivion whelms their name, And not a bard survives to mourn his country's shame. Here too his sacred lore the Druid taught, Here breathed the fires of* elevated thought, Th* undaunted spirit of the martial strife, The proud, heroic, generous scorn of life ; Bold in the faith that death dissolves the ties Which hold the souPs pure essence from the skies. Raised on a slope once crowned with waving wood, Unsheltered now, and bare, his altar stood : Three pointed crags the ponderous load sustain, Unhewn, sonorous, of basaltic grain, Work of gigantic hands ; and spread around A stony circle marks the mystic ground. Beneath imbowering rocks I see the sage, His soul high panting with prophetic rage, 24 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Long trails of light his glistening vestments flow, Like lucid foam descends his beard of snow, O'er his broad temples bound with shady green, Bright shine the crescent's horns of silvery sheen, And in his hand the misletoe behold, Lopt from its parent oak with blade of gold. What big emotion heaves his panting heart, Swift from his tongue what thrilling accents start ! Be hushed ye winds ; roll calm thou murmuring deep; Soft in your caves ye gentle echoes sleep ! See, his rapt soul feels inspiration's glow, And a God dictates as the numbers flow. " Rise, rise ye ages from the mists of night, " Rend time's dark veil, and burst upon my sight ! «* Round Sleimis see what beams of glory play, " A sainted stranger pours the flood of day ! " A cross he bears whose high and potent spell " Has burst the adamantine gates of hell ; " And in his hand the sacred charter brings " Of life immortal from the king of kings. THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 25 " Where'er he treads what new-born joys abound, " Serpents and dragons flee the hostile ground, • The monsters of the wild his voice obey, " And Pride and Lust more furious far than they ; w Peace rains her holy influence from above, " And Virtue triumphs with redeeming Love ! " Rise, rise ye ages from the mists of night, ec Rend time's dark veil, and burst upon my sight ! " Before the breeze rapacious Lochlin sails — ** White bleach her bones in Erin's rescued vales— * — Ah ! hated vision ! trembling, and alone, u A foul adulterer bows at England's throne ; cas are new Britannia's pale. " One king, one sceptre rule? the sister isles,, " In Union's flowery wreaths blithe Erin smiles^ " By mutual love, for mutual strength combined, " See, round the rose the verdant shamrock twined f " Joy crouds the street, and carols with the swain, ° Truth, Justice Mercy here for ever reign. Ceased is the voice — but still the sound I hear In soft melodious murmurs meet my ear* And still the rocks repeat the dulcet strain, 11 Truth, Justice, Mercy, here for ever reign." Here good Columba showed in Christian skies, The lucid dav-star of Salvation rise : THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 27 Bright beamed its glcry, and with power divine, Pierced through the darkness of the pagan shrine ; The lone bleak Hebrids caught its cheering rays, Thence far Iona's altars drew their bla?e, And soon the barren crag, and savage wild With fruits and flowers of growth immortal smiled. Where Margy's walls, unroofed and mouldering stand, IVlid the long rye-grass rustling o'er the sand, Where many a heaving sod, and rustic stone, Death, dread destroyer, mark the place thy own, What sacred orisons with morn arose, What heaven-taught vespers blest the evening's close ! Lost to the world, its follies all forgot, There chose the monk his calm contented lot, Told o'er his beads, his useless vigils kept, Or o'er the pages of the fathers slept. There too, perhaps, some Eloisa strove, Poor cloistered victim of despair and love, With many an idle wish, and heartless prayer. To lift her thoughts to heaven, and fix them there. 28 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Now all is hushed, and silent as the grave, Save when the tempests through the lone aisles rave, Solemn and sad — or when the time-struck wall Wakes the dull echoes by its sounding fall, Charming the ear of Ruin, as he smiles O'er slimy vaults, and monumental piles. Thou too Dunluce, proud throne of feudal state, Hast bowed beneath the withering arm of fate ; For time has been, when girt with martial powers High waved thy banners o'er thy sea-girt towers; When deep and awful rose the battle's roar, And War's artillery shook thy trembling shore. — Then rude Magnificence adorned thy board, And Valour steeled thy lord's victorious sword ; Then loud was heard the voice of festive glee, With dance, and song, and heaven-taught minstrelsy. Wide to the storm now stand thy echoing halls, Time saps the base of thy basaltic walls ; In ruin lies thy bridge's narrow pass, Sunk in the fosse, and clothed with waving grass; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 29 The sea-pink blooms upon thy turrets* height, There the lone bird of ocean sits by night ; While far beneath, thy wave-washed cavern moans, As the sad spirit of the whirlwind groans, And fell Banshees, across the lonely heath, Shriek to the blast, and pour the song of death. Sad are thy changes, Time — and Mem'ry's tears Fall as she pauses on the wrecks of years, While many a tint from Fancy's pallet thrown, Gives to the past a beauty not its own, And bids the Muse in savage life behold Heroic virtues, and an age of gold. Thus the rough wildness of the mountain bare* By distance mellowed in the clear blue air, Presents creative thought with many a scene Of woods and cots, fair glen, and rural green. At Truth's quick glance the vain delusions fly, And Reason checks the momentary sigh, While Hope extatic, points to happier skies, And bids new scenes of bliss and glory rise. 30 THE GIANTS* CAUSEWAY. Lo ! fair Improvement, on the wheels of time, Rejoicing, moves o'er Dalriada's clime, Like tower-crowned Ceres, when the vales of Ide Saw the first harvests clothe their cultured side ; Laughed the green hills, and soothed by influence bland The harnessed lions own'd her guiding hand. See patient Industry, and sun-burnt Toil, O'er the rough flint induce the verdant soil ; While bleak December hears the mower blithe, In new-born meadows whet the shining scythe. Where barbarous clans the savage war-howl raised, Now hear the God of love celestial praised: Those iron towers that lodged th' as?assin horde, Strong dens of Rapine, Terror, and the sword, Sink ne'er to rise — the shag-haired kern no more Bathes, as he howls, his reeking skeyn in gore ; But Peace sits smiling on the mountain heath, And Plenty revels on the plains beneath, Where Spring's first flowers their purple hues unfold, Or harvests rustle in autumnal gold. How Nature wantons in our beauteous vales, Clothes the green sward, and scents the fragrant gales; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 31 With fruits the groves, with pearls the waters stores, The rocks with diamonds, and the hills with ores ; While laughing Naiads from their urns distil Their dews mellifluous, and the balmy rill. Flow, Lagan flow — though close thy banks of green, Though in the picture of the world unseen, Yet dearer to my soul thy waters run, Than all the rills that glide beneath the sun; For first by thee my bosom learned to prove The joys of friendship, and the bliss of love; No change of time, or place, shall e'er dispart Those ties which Nature twines around my heart; Each dear association, grown more strong, As years roll on, shall flourish in my song. Flow on fair stream — thy gathering waves expand., And greet with joy the Athens of the land ; Through groves of masts thick crowding o'er thy tide, A new Ilissus, roll in classic pride : Thy Percy hail, with age and honour crowned, Loved of the muse, and by the muse renowned : For other Joys see Taste her chaplets twine ; Hear other Bruces speak at Wisdom's shrine : 32 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Along thy banks, with early blooms o'erspread, By other Temt-letons see Flora led : May Dante's soul in other Boyds revive, And every shoot of truth and knowledge thrive ! Thy laurelled brows exulting Science raise, Now heaven recals old Erin's golden days ; Ages of glory, heroes, saints return, Bright o'er the land, ye stars of Genius burn t Awake ye Bards, your ancient rights regain, New string your harps, and raise a bolder strain ; From shore to shore the light of song diffuse, And crown, O Fame, the virtue-breathing muse* END OF BOOK FIRST* o y IMi < TH£ GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. [ J ,l, E AS KI. ARGUMENT. Praise of Erin.,. Address to a friend... Excursion round the coast of Antrim. ..View of the cliffs from the sea. ..Fata Morgana at the Bush-foot strand... Moral reflections... Dunkerry cave... Nature, the parent of the fine arts. ..Port na Spania....Pleaskin..., Kelp-burners... .Salmon-fishery.... Different instincts of the eel and salmon... Marine occu- pations of the inhabitants of the coast.. .Cruelty of those who plunder shipwrecked vessels reprobated... A shoal of herrings... .of Porpoues.... Fecundity of the waters... Rise and progress of navigation... Descent to the bottom of the deep. ..Bengore...Benmore.. .The eagle.. .Mode of robbing sea-fowls' nests... Episode of Blanaid. THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. BOOK SECOND, X 1 AIR land of zephyrs, while life's currents flow, Warm in my heart the love of thee shall glow ; Thy winding vales, thy lakes of crystal sheen. Thy mountains covered with perennial green, Thy woods, thy cataracts, and billowy sea, Yes, even thy weeping sky has joys for me. For ever blooming be thy daughters' charms, And ever bright their wit's resistless arms; Brave be thy sons, in manly beauty strong, And proud their feeling of oppression's wrong ; 56 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Though yet untaught by prudence to controul The first rash impulse of the free-born soul, Hail to the spirit that informs their heart, Warm, generous, noble, unenslaved by art ; The record fair of nature's pristine plan, Retaining yet the genuine stamp of man ! My Armstrong, come, the muse's early friend, And round our northern shores her flight attend; If e'er in life's fair morn we wooed the Nine, Or sought the treasures of the classic mine, Led by the star of Bruce, whose radiance bright, Ne'er sheds a sparing, nor a dubious light; Come, climb with me the cliff-crowned hill of caves, Rise o'er the world, its passions, and its slaves; Let thy high thoughts with rapt Devotion soar, And Nature's God, on Nature's shrine adore. Thence beach-ward by the walls of Fergus rove, By Oldfleet tower, and Inver's hallowed grove ; Or where high Salagh's ridge o'erlooks the vale, Whose numerous bean-fields scent the fragrant gale; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 37 Sweet scenes, where oft in life's fair morn I strayed, Blest be your swains, and ever green your shade ! Or where Glenarm extends its pebbly shores, White as the foamy surge that round them roars ; Or Garron's bastion cliffs the waves repel, Or fair Glenariff winds her wizard dell ; Or Torr's black rocks Titanian limbs o'erspread, Or cloudy Benmore lifts his giant head ; Or where Kenban his chalky brow uprears, With turrets crowned, the pride of other years ; Or that dread bridge, by hempen fetters bound From steep to steep at Reda's gulf profound, Light as the work of sylphs, above the seas Aerial hangs, and shivers in the breeze. » But if it more delight, come stretch the sail, And bid the cliffs and rocks from ocean hail ; See from beneath the various picture move, And smile at Terror as he frowns above. Smooth glides the skif£ and up the rustling sand Rolls the light surge, by Bosca's magic strand, 38 THE GIANTS* CAUSEWAY. Where gay Morgana and her fairy train Sport with the senses of the wondering swain; Raised by her power, he sees a warlike line Of plumy crests, and burnished muskets shine ; Anon they flit, and lawns and woods arise, Chariots and steeds, and towers that reach the skies ; Now fades the scene, and bounding in the breeze, Embattled navies sweep the azure seas ; Sail crouds on sail, the boiling wake grows hoar, And whitening surges climb each sculptured prore. — — Gone is the pageant ! — vanished from the view, Like the thin vapour, or the morning dew. Thus as adown the stream of life we sail, What gay delusions oft o'er sense prevail ! Romantic Fancy paints each coming scene, And clothes the desert in unreal green ; Bids camps and fleets the passing bark invite* Elysian groves, and mansions of delight, Where Power and Pleasure spread their potent wiles, And Love and Fame with meretricious smiles ; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 39 Vain rainbow forms, enchanting to the view, Which mock the grasp, and flee as we pursue. Where yon dark shadowy rocks embower the wave, Scooped in their mural height Dunkerry's cave, As Fion's grot sublime, its arms extends, And o'er the floods its dome high-arching bends: A crimson zone its emerald walls surrounds, Far, far within the hollow surge resounds ; Borne through the cleft's contracting sides we hear Its echoes roll, where skiff ne'er dared to steer. Now round the mole, from Giants named of yore, Thy altar Nature, helm th* obedient prore ; How black, how firm, its adamantine sides Rise o'er the azure of the heaving tides! How proud th* indented bound of ocean lowers ! What rocky theatres, and spire?, and towers ! First bold creation of the plastic hand, That rolled the billows round the rock-ribbed land ! Nature's primeval forms, whence mimic Art Saw the first image of her fabrics start, 40 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Th* idea fair of wonders deemed her own, The breathing canvas, and the quickened stone. But vain her powers with Nature's pride to vie, As the gilt dome to match the starry sky ; High be her boast of Tiber's proud arcades, Her ducts, pantheons, fanes, and colonnades: See, in these temples of the northern blast, Their beauty, grandeur, strength and skill surpast. Ye heights of Spania hail ! — for ever stand The strong terrific bulwark of the land ; And should th' invader, yet untaught, explore Thy seas inviolate and free — once more Let Erin's genius on thy stormy brow, Hear the rocks crashing through the hostile prow> What muse, O Pleaskin, in accordant lays, To future times shall consecrate thy praise, Thou noblest temple ever Nature's power Built for her homage pure ? — In fancy's hour Embodying fair the image of her mind, She bade thy courts in circling beauty wind ; THE GIANTS* CAUSEWAY. 41 Row above row, with grandeur joined to grace, Raised thy grey columns o'er their vermeil base; A solemn majesty around thee spread, And with cerulean aether crowned thy head. Most beauteous steep that shades the ocean tide, The Muse's wonder and Ierne's pride, Thou fair Palmyra of this rocky waste — Thy fane in Greece or Rome had Nature placed, How many an awe-struck and adoring croud Had o'er thy consecrated altars bowed ; Bade their vows mount on incensed wings above, And hailed thee temple of Almighty Jove. What clouds of smoke in azure curls aspire From many an altar's dark and smouldering fire ? What shadowy forms dim gleam upon the sight, Now hid in fume — now clear with sudden light; Do Greece's priests revive in Erin's sky, Or dread wierd sisters rites unholy try ? Ah no ! a race inured to toil severe, Of manners simple, and of heart sincere, G 42 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Sons of the rock and nurselings of the surge, Around the kiln their daily labours urge ; O'er the dried weed the smoky volume coils, And deep beneath the precious kali boils. High on yon cliff the fisher takes his stand, The rock's loose fragments arm his brawny hand, Swift as he marks the glistening salmon glide, He hurls a rattling stone^shower in the tide. The patient boatman rocking on the brine, Elate with hope, beholds the well-known sign : Swift winds the capturing net, and now in vain, The fear-struck captive beats the flaxen chain ; Vain is his strength, and vain his dotted mail, His rapid fin, quick eye, and springy tail : He sports in Bosca's sable streams no more, Nor braves majestic Banna's cataract roar; By hands unpitying, from his native flood Dragged o'er the pointed crags, defiled with blood, His scales all ruffled, and his vigour fled, He gasps — he pants — he lies deformed — and dead. THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 43 What different instinct bids the silvery eel In countless train up Banna's torrents wheel, While salmon shoals the downward streams forsake, And to the stranger brood resign the lake ; In whose clear waves the prickly holly thrown, Its nature loses, and transmutes to stone ? Unfold it thou, O Templeton, whose view Has roved creation's peopled regions through; Thou who can'st speak of all the flowers of spring, Of fish of every fin, and bird of every wing : Tell, for thou knows't, how Nature has assigned Their times and seasons to each tribe and kind, And how her laws direct, propel, controul, So wondrous wise, th' instinctive powers of soul. In shallow streamlets, with th* insidious fly, Their tiny art let patient anglers try : Far other sport the hardy natives boast, Who sweep with long-drawn net this iron coast, Or o'er the whirling surge the feather spread. To tempt the Glashan from his oozy bed. 44 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 'Tis theirs with storms to urge the bold turmoil, Where adverse tides in whelming eddies boil ; To hear sad shriekings in the midnight air, To see the ghastly death-fires of despair Flash o'er the wreck, and grisly spectres croud Where floats the wan corse in a foamy shroud ; While boding mermaids rising on the swell, Wring their wet locks, and chant their funeral spell. Down to the wreck-strewn beach, when storms arise, The ruffian plunderer, led by Rapine hies ; Greedy of spoil, the savage joys to mark The wild waves rushing o'er the shattered bark ; He comes for deeds of dreadful name prepared, To slay the wanderer whom the storm has spared : Accurs'd of heaven ! the land's reproach and shame, May Disappointment ever blast your aim, And Want and Famine howling at your board, Avenge the slighted law's too tardy sword ! Ke'er, Dalriada, may the fiend of gain Possess thy genius, and thy shores profane, THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 45 But, prompt at Mercy's call, thy hand extend To save the helpless, and the wronged defend. i In airy wheels what fowls unnumbered fly, Dashing the seas, or screaming through the sky ? The Herring's march they follow from the pole ; Millions on millions moves th' enormous shoal ; In gentle undulations as they rise On the smooth rippling waves, a thousand dyes Shot from their scales with mingling lustre play, A field of gems wide-blazing to the day ! Voracious foes their feeble ranks assail, The Shark, the Porpoise, and devouring Whale ; The keen-eyed Osprey marks the prey from far, And there th' impetuous Gannet brings the war; Poised on smooth pinion from his tow'ry height, With glance more rapid than a shaft of light, He marks his quarry in the crystal flood, And plumb-down darting, in the victim's blood Drives his keen beak. — With rapture-beaming eye The well-known sign the ready fishers spy, 46 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Th* unsparing nets around the prey expand, And heap with treasure all the yellow sand. See, as they gambol o'er the hoary brine, What porpoise shoals with quick reflections shine ; As by the skiff they urge their swift career, The timid landsman starts with sudden fear ; New to the waves he dreads each novel form, Shrinks from the spray, and deems the breeze a storm; But vain his fears — away the monsters sweep, Like Neptune's coursers plunging through the deep. Oft to the fisher aid unhoped they bring, As on the salmon's passing ranks they spring ; The shoal quick darting from their jaws with dread, Plunge in the nets, and meet a fate they fled. Thus as the greyhound rakes her flix behind, The startled hare bounds rapid as the wind^ Till to the rustic's secret snare she hies, And in the fatal noose unpitied dies. Thus mid the blue Atlantic waves afar. The winged fish avoids th* unequal war ; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 47 When close behind the hungry dolphin darts, Swift from his gaping jaws away she starts, And from her native wave by terror driven, Spreads her moist pinions to the breeze of heaven ; Now foes of fleeter wing her flight espy; The braying Albatross with glutton eye, And rapid Frigate, in their airy way, Wheel sw 7 ift around, and seize the flying prey : Or if by chance she shun the feathered foe, The wary Dolphin that pursued below, With jaws expanding wide beneath the wave, Receives the victim in a living grave. Prolific Ocean ; how thy bounteous flood From all its sources sends the scaly brood ! For man, dread tyrant, glide their marshalled powers, From all thy sands, and rocks, and coral bow T ers ; No scale -fenced ribs against his art avail, Nor strength, nor bulk, nor shelly plates of mail ; Their swiftest march more rapid he pursues, Ensnares by cunning, or by force subdues. 48 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. As round the isles thy moon-struck empire rolls, Joins east and west, and links the adverse poles, Launched on thy waves with daring soul sublime, Lo ! man becomes the guest of every clime. 'Tis thine, divine Philosophy, to guide The wandering sailor o'er the pathless tide : Stayed by the waters, far around him hurled, Man deemed his shores the limit of the world ; Till taught by thee the rugged pine to hew, Stitch the smooth bark, and build the light canoe. On streams, and lakes, and narrow friths grown brave, He dared at length to meet the ocean wave ; Traced by thy aid the wonders of the skies, And marked the constellations set and rise ; Then, towered the mast o'er triple banks of oars, And War sat frowning on the brazen prores. Yet from his ken lay half the world unknown, 'Till thou the needle's mystic power hadst shown ; Then first Columbus, of intrepid mind, Gave all his canvas to the eastern wind, THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 49 And held the ruling helm through toil and pain, The midnight watch, the perils of the main, And the fierce factions of a dastard crew, 'Till new-found worlds burst glorious on his view. Then bold De Gama braved the phantom forms, That scowled portentous at the cape of storms, And o'er the watry waste in triumph borne, Explored his passage to the realms of morn- See now Britannia's red-cross flag unfurled On every shore around the convex world; Where blazing suns rive every pitchy seam, Or ice-bound ropes in arctic moon-light gleam. Firm and undaunted, lo ! the British tar Hides on the floods, and braves each hostile star; He bares his bosom to the arrowy sleet, And hears the thunder bursting at his feet ; With Nelson's genius breathes Britannia's ire, And sinks her foes, or wraps in storms of fire ; Or led by Cooke's adventurous zeal imparts To barbarous hordes, peace, science, and the arts ; The heaven- ward paths of knowledge bids them scan, And moulds the rugged savage into man. H 50 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Lead, lead, my spirit, far beneath the waves, Through limestone vallies, and basaltic caves; O like Cyrene's offspring let me go To view the wonders of the world below ; What roots of rock thick-woven, and entwined, Those giant steeps to earth's fixed centre bind ; What sea-born forests clothe their vallied sides, What Whirling pools absorb th' engulfing tides; How Maelstrom rages on Norwegian shores, Or Corry-vreckan's frightful vortex roara. Amazing world ! how vain the thoughts of man, Thy depths, thy terrors, and thy wealth to scan ! Down, down unfathomably deep are laid, Where plummet never dropped, where thought ne'er strayed, Earth's vast foundatioris-^wrecks of worlds unknown, By central shocks dismembered and o'erthrown. What fissures, gulfs, and precipices dread, And dismal vales with ivory bones o'erspread ! Vast cemet'ries, where Horror holds his court, Prowls the fell shark, and monstrous krakens sport. THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 51 What mines of gold, and gems of emerald ray ! What floors of pearl the coral grots inlay ! Here, still as death, the oak-ribbed vessel lies. Wedged in the grasping rocks no more to rise ; Sent hissing down, as through the sulphurous air Rang the mixed shouts of triumph and despair : Now sluggish limpets on the decks repose; Through the rent ports*the oozy tangle grows, And climbs the poop, where Glory's hands unfurled The red-cross flag that awed the wat'ry world. The victor here, and vanquished, side by side, Sleep ghastly pale, sad wrecks of human pride; Their nerveless hands yet grasp the fatal steel, And yet the warrior's ire they seem to feel. Unhallowed ire ! oh guilt ! oh rage unblest ! Here, here, Ambition, come, and plume thy crest; Here see thy trophies, relics of the brave Untimely slain, and whelmed beneath the wave. See children, fathers, husbands long deplored, Unshrouded, gashed, and mangled by the sword ; Here build the proud memorial of thy fame, And down to hell thy triumphs loud proclaim. 52, THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. All-righteous heaven ! how long shall murderous War O'er slaughtered hosts impel his ruthless car; And cursed Ambition, drunk with folly, plan The guilt, the crimes, and miseries of man ! Far from these scenes where Death and Horror lie, Back to thy native rocks, my spirit, hie; Place me, ye Muses, where Bengore uprears His broad, firm brow to meet the storms of years ; Where hangs the steady wild-goat undismayed, O'er beetling cliffs where human foot ne'er strayed; Where, met in torrents of electric fire, The midnight spirits of the winds conspire. The wary seamen mark the sign with fear, And reef their canvas as aloof they steer; While bright, and brighter yet, the beaconed steep Glows with collecting fires, vast diamond of the deep. Then let me rove where Benmore's airy height Aspires still nearer to the realms of light: Chained to such rock, in drear Caucasian clime, Thy son, Japetus, gloried in his crime, THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 53 When on his brow fierce smote the angry levin, And round him roared th* artillery of heaven. Gigantic steep, what massy pillars form Thy breezy halls, thy palace of the storm ; Waste, savage, wild, where not a blade of green With cheerful tint adorns the solemn scene. In vain the bee explores thy barren soil, There blooms no flower to pay the wanderer's toil; But on thy fissured side, the Eagle proud His eyry builds, anchiestles in the cloud. Those shattered rocks in waste terrific hurled Around thy base, rent columns of the world ; Thy splintery brow, deep-trenched through many an age, Beneath the thunder's dint, and whirlwind's rage, Stupendous wrecks, pre-eminently grand, Declare that power whose high Almighly hand Heaved thee from ocean. — Awe-struck as I gaze, My soul is lost in mute adoring praise. Since earth arose, majestic hast thou stood Enthroned in tranquil grandeur o'er the flood ; 54 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. While states and empires grown to boundless sway, Have withered, drooped, and perished from the day. Thou too shalt fall, though seeming to defy Th' eternal warfare of the sea and sky ; Around thy base shall Dissolution twine, And time's sure vengeance to thy center mine ; The firm foundations of thy piers abrade, And level with the surge thy proud facade. Roused from his eyry see the Eagle rise ; With sounding pinion now he mounts the skies ; Bright, round his beak, electric glories play, His eye-ball braves the sun's refulgent ray; Far o'er the seas with level wing he skims, Sports in the clouds, or through deep azure swims, "Till near Cantire he wheel his rapid course, Or mid th' Ebudae, with the lightning's force, Darts sudden down to pounce the trembling hare, Or from the shepherd rend his fleecy care.... —In vain the rustic's shouts his flight pursue, He mounts, he lessens in the liquid blue.- — THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 55 On some high peak he tears the quivering spoil; Or if subdued by hunger's rage, or toil, On some low quarry sent by chance he feed,, The elf-shot heifer, or the carrion steed, Gorged, though unsated, when his wings are spread To mount the skies» their power to mount is fled. ill-fated emblem of the sensual soul ! No more the clouds beneath his feet shall roll, Nor earth diminish from his piercing sight, As to the fount of day he wings his flight. He sees with dread dismay th* approaching swain, And tries again to rise, but tries in vain. Now see, by rustic hands, those pinions shorn, Whose speed was rapid as the beams of morn, And chains inglorious round those talons twined, Whose grasp the potent thunderbolt confined. Thus by the chains of sensual pleasure bound, The high-toned spirit, grovelling, licks the ground; Though destined far o'er earth's dull orb to soar, To mount with angels, and with saints adore. 56 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Lo ! where yon falcon seeks his feast of blood, While screaming fowls pursue him o'er the flood ; A dastard race, the war of sounds they wage, And vent at distance safe their idle rage, For should he turn, their fleetest wing in vain To shun his ire would scour th' aerial plain: No servile bells his rapid flight controul, No lure proclaims the bondage of his soul; His claws in blood unordered he imbrues, And for himself the game of death pursues. With clam'rous din the hollow rocks resound, As flocks of sea-birds wheel their airy round ; Or, perching as they smoothe the ruffled plume, With rays of life the sombre cliffs illume, While all their notes in harmony combined, Swell the loud chorus of the sea and wind. Nature, great parent, 'tis thy care provides The down that clothes them, and the soul that guides, Handmaid of God, to system ever true, Yet ever-varying, and for ever new, THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 57 'Tis thine to arm their wave-repelling chest, To spread each pinion, and adorn each crest: Thou bid'st the sand- lark on the beach prepare An humble mansion for her tender care, While the bold Eagle, on yon cliffs afar, Soars to the storm, and braves th' ethereal war. When louring clouds the face of heaven o'ercast, What foresight wings the Petrel from the blast ? Steered by what pilot from the Arctic steep, Hies to these seas the Herdsman of the deep ? What bids the strong-winged Barnacle explore Through wintry skies her path to Erin's shore ? Ye feathered tribes who dwell these cliffs among, Unlike your brethren of the woodland song, Sure, unmolested in your rust-brown soil, Too poor for Envy, and too rough for Toil, Free and secure ye bide, nor see dismayed, The rustic plunderer e'er your rocks invade. Ah no ! for there will man, whose daring soul Would dive to hell, or climb the starry pole, 58 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Pursue his upward, or his downward way, Fearless, and bold to make your haunts his prey. See, o'er the moated steep the peasant bends, Eyes the dread gulf, and girt with ropes descends: Tremendous task ! for should the cord dispart, Cut by the crag, or from the mortise sta*t, Precipitate he falls with horrid shock, Tossed round and round, and pitched from rock to rock. — Nor perils less his dreadful path assail, If from below the ragged heights he scale — Tremble the senses — terror chains the breath, Chill flows the blood, for one false step is death : Yet not with surer tread the wild goats climb Up Pleaskin's brow, or Benmore's cliffs sublime. He sees a thousand pinions round him fly, And hears unmoved the wild discordant cry; Cautious yet bold, each cranny he explores, Nor heeds the breeze-borne spray which far beneath him roars. Thou whose bold steps o'er those dread rampires stray* Bid heaven's winged agents guard thy dangerous way; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 59 But tremble if thy stricken conscience groan For vows of broken love, or guilt unknown, Lest the dark spirit of the slipp'ry heath Hurl thee incautious on the rocks beneath. Where Rathlin braves the surge that round her rolls^, With chalky bastions, and basaltic moles, Dwelt fair Blanaid, of poets* song the theme, Fair as the maid of every poet's dream. Tinged was her cheek with health's vermillion dye, And joy and beauty frolicked in her eye ; For every youth her subtle chains she wove, And bound in fetters of relentless love, 'Till Ullin's arms prevailed, and Conrigh's blade Had widowed Rathlin's towers, and won the maid. Of glory, grandeur, beauty's charms possess'd, What knight on earth was now like Conrigh bless'd ?■ More bless'd had fortune smiled not on his cause, Or given a consort bound by honour's laws : For UlhVs prince by mighty love subdued, To Fionglass his secret path pursued, 60 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. And sought in safe disguise the lonely bowers, Where passed Blanaid her solitary hours, And sighed, and wept, and with seducing art, Bade her receive his sceptre, throne, and heart By love enthralled, or by ambition fired, Against her lord th' adulterous wife conspired : At dead of night a faithless vassal band, High in the turrets, lodged a flaming brand, And in the tumults of the purposed strife, A traitor's dagger stole her husband's life. Guilt sprang in terror from the murderous deed, And urged the trembling pair on wings of speed, To Ullin's shores — while o'er the warrior slain Long groups of mourners poured the funeral strain, And Fionglass through all its echoing shades, Heard the sad dole of youths, and weeping maids. But deepest flowed the bard's heart-swelling grief, For with a parent's love he loved the chief ; Oft as a parent had he marked with joy, The manly promise of the infant boy; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 61 Had taught his youth to bend the flexile bow, To wield the spear, and chase the mountain roe, 'Till ripe for war, his soul to glory turned, Where the steel ravaged, and the conflict burned. Oft as the aged sire his triumphs sang, With double life the Harp's roused spirit rang ; But now it pours in sad and mournful flow, From strings bedewed with tears, the dirge of woe. " Pale, pale, my son, how fade thy dreadful charms, u How nerveless lies the thunder of thy arms ! " Cold is the hand that ruled the maddening wheel, " And cold the breast whose valour edged the steel ! " Dark, ruthless treason on his slumbers crept, " And struck the dagger while the lion slept. " O Conrigh, Conrigh, hadst thou pressed the plain, "Mid arms, and steeds, and reeking mounds of slain, "But thus to feel th' assassin shaft of death, u Winged through black midnight by a woman's breath! " Inglorious fall !— my life of life is fled, " With thine this withered heart lies cold and dead. m THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. « Scathed by the fires of heaven, a trunk 1 stand, " Branchless and lonely, on a waste of sand : w O why does heaven the rooted oak up-tear, " But the old trunk, and useless sapling spare ? " Where was the bard, when sunk the warrior low, " With faithful breast to ward the treacherous blow ? " Dull through my veins life's languid currents roll, " Cold is the fire that once enflamed my soul ; " But yet one spark of righteous vengeance lives, " High Duty claims it, and 'tis Friendship gives: "Lo! Conrigh clothed in all his grim array, " Looks from his cloud, and chides my long delay. " Yet, mighty spirit, yet one deed remains, " And then I join thee in yon argent plains. « Eternal Justice, now thy bolts prepare, *' And strike the rabid she-wolf in her lair. " Vales, woods, and streams of Fionglass, adieu ! "Arise" my soul — to Ullin — rise, pursue!" Onward, indignant see the poet stride, A royal harp dependent at his side ; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 63 Now gleams with angry fire his tearful eye, Like lightning flashing through a rainy sky; More rnpid now his hurrying sjep appears, Than suits the weakness of declining years ; "With patient toil o'er bog and moor he passed, 'Till Dalriada's shores he viewed at last. A day of cheer had Ullin's prince proclaimed To all his nobles, and the day was named ; A hundred beeves, the best that grazed the plain, And bristly boars, and mountain deer were slain ; And knights, and lords, in broidered raiment proud, Before Blanaid their royal mistress bowed ; And wondering courtiers, as they gaily swore Such charms ne'er graced the land of green before, With no false praise seduced the captive ear, But once spake truth, and once were known sincere. Now rose the feast, and now the cup went round, And bards a hundred raised the festive sound : But who among them all so sweetly sings As that strange bard who strikes the sounding strings 64 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Beside the Queen ? — How eager all admire His wild expression, and his hand of fire ! E'en other bards, though not to wonder prone, In listening to his song, forget their own. He sang the gallant deeds of warlike youth, The holy bliss of wedded love and truth, Of knight victorious on the listed plain, Of lover true by faithless mistress slain; And through a melting tale poured all his art, To touch the guilty fair one's conscious heart: And though with well-dissembling skill she tried The mixed emotions of her soul to hide, Oft as she met the bard's accusing look, Shame tinged her cheek, and rage her bosom shook. That night no slumber on her eyelid stole, For sad remorse sat heavy on her soul, And whilst in revelry, and wild delight, The prince and courtiers lengthened out the night, She mused retired — when on her startled ear, Burst the shrill piercing cry of sudden fear; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. G5 Her aged nurse bad shriek' d aloud to see The shadowy spectre of the fell Banshee : A hag deformed of fairy size it seemed; And wrung its tiny hands, and faintly screamed, While on the topmost battlement it stood, Of woe prophetic to Milesian blood. Next day forth summoned to the tented plain, In martial sports contend the royal train ; While fair Blanaid to soothe her sad alarms, Roved round the capes, and courted Nature's charms; Alas ! what joy can Nature's charms impart, When guilt confounds, and conscience rives the heart ? The wary bard, by chance or fate, had seen The lonely wanderings of the trouble-d queen, And marked the barrier where, in pensive mood, Perhaps repentant of her crime, she stood : Her snow-white vestments waved with sinuous flow O'er the tremendous gulf that yawned below ; Full-orbed arose her bosom's downy swell, Wooed by the amorous breeze her tresses fell, And from her swimming eyes voluptuous blue, Rolled many a precious drop of crystal dew. K Q6 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Thus high- surcharged with tears of vernal shower, On some proud terrace,bends the stately flower, 'Till the chill rustling of the bleak North-west Shake them in ice-drops from its fragrant breast. Majestic beauty ! could thy potent charm Melt frozen age, or stern resolve disarm, Then had the bard to ruth his soul inclined, And cursed the dreadful act his thought designed; But mightier Friendship's mandate had decreed, Th' adulterous wife for Conrigh slain should bleed. Ere slow suspicion touched the courtiers' breast, The bard approached, and thus the queen addressed : <( Alas, fond wretch ! and darest thou hope to prove " The honours of a throne, the bliss of love ? " Behold thy murdered husband's spectre wave "His beckoning hand, and call thee to the grave : " To flee essay not — earth's united bands " In vain would snatch thee from these vengeful hands." " Stay, stay, rash bard ! thy soul let pity bend, Angels of mercy here your wings extend ! THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 67 Ah me ! no angels from destruction guard, But conscience whispers this is guilt's reward." Seized in his death-grasp hangs the struggling fair, As he dives headlong down th* abyss of air. — — The sea-fowl, startled by the rushing sound, Saw their torn limbs from rock to rock rebound; And as they plunged tho roaring waves among, Raised their shrill notes, and screamed the funeral song. END OF BOOK SECOND, u:,!iiii IS GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. ARGUMENT. Lucretius... Praise3 of Philosophy... Fire, the supposed cause of basaltic phenomena... .Nature and Properties of that element... Volcanoes... Plato's Atlantic isle...Hecla....ffit- na... Destruction of Catania. ..Vesuvius. ..Pompeia... Death of Pliny... Earthquakes... Calloa sunk... Rathlin dissevered from the main land... .Basaltic columns formed by the sudden refrigeration, or the gradual crystallization of la- va.. .The Neptunian hypothesis... The golden age.. .Uni- versal deluge... Its effects... Basalt formed by deposition, and consequent desiccation... Objection to this theory... A sage of Edina explains the Huttonian hypothesis... The changes which the works of nature undergo, are not followed by destruction, but 'renovation... The pres- ent earth formed from the debris of an antecedent one... Central fires... Consolidation and elevation of the strata ...Injection of ores into veins... Crystallization of basalt ...Fall of a cliff at Benmore... Farther illustration of the Huttonian theory... A principle of self-renovation per- vades the universe... Evening... Address to the deity. THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. BOOK THIRD. SUBLIME Lucretius ! thou whose daring page Breathes the high spirit of th' Athenian sage, With whom high-soaring to the cause of things, Thy soul quaffed deep the muse's hidden springs ; Come to these capes that brave the northern gale, And bid, as thou wert wont, blue ocean bail. Come, hear with me, the big tumultuous waves Bursting like thunder through a thousand caves, And see the bark which blackening tempests urge, Hide o'er the hills of foam, and meet the boisterous surge. '2 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Thrice happy he, whose truth-illumined soul With Science wanders through the boundless whole; No angry fiends of night her skies deform, Or round her roll the lightning and the storm ; Where'er she turns, to earth, or heaven, she sees The real heralds of divine decrees. Now plunging downward, see her urge her flight Through the dark realms of chaos and of night; Now mid the zones, she spreads her wings afar, Soars to the sun, and visits every star, And scanning Nature's universal laws, Mounts from the second to th' eternal cause. Here, by o'erhanging rocks, where Danger keeps His dreary watch-tower trembling o'er the deeps, Th* adventurous muse's anxious thoughts explore What power of Nature formed the pillared shore. Here, hapless Hamilton, lamented name ! To fire volcanic traced the curious frame, And, as his soul, by sportive fancy's aid, Up to the fount of time's long current strayed, Far round these rocks he saw fierce craters boil* And torrent lavas flood the riven soil : THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 73 Saw vanquished Ocean from his bounds retire, And hailed the wonders of creative Fire. Fire, noblest element that Nature wields, In earth, and air, and empyrean fields ; 'Tis thine to feed the golden lamp of day, To fix the bounds of stern Attraction's sway, To give the wandering orbs repulsive force, And guide the wheels of Nature in their course : Thine too to fructify the germs of earth, Clothe the green sward, and give all creatures birth, To breathe life, love, and rapture through the breeze, Dissolve the icy poles, and roll the purple seas. Fire, mighty power, in many a clime adored As Beal, Phoebus, and creation's Lord, Armed by thy might see man resistless reign Lord of the brute, the mountain, and the main : Unwearied element, in thee unite All beauty, colour, heat, and cheering light. Light ! sacred effluence from the blest abode, Fairest, best image of all-bounteous God, L 74 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Rapid as thought thy emanations glide, Of all material things to spirit most allied ; In vest Like thine, so pure, so heavenly clear, Shall man, disrobed of flesh, at last appear, Raised from the earth, and equalled to thy sphere. Heralds of nature, ye whose wondrous art Can light and heat, a wedded pair, dispart. And o'er the plain, with magick skill, diffuse One radiant beam in seven resplendent hues; Or- to a point condense the scattered rays, Whose force more potent than the furnace blaze, As fire the wax, each stubborn ore commands, And bursts the diamond's adamantine bands; Say, to what orb those mighty torrents run, Which issue ceaseless from the golden sun ; If, in th' expanse they waste their rapid force, Or haste like rivers to their parent source; And, in the vortex of their circling tide, Around the fount of day the planets guide ? Say, are the forky bolt's electric flame, The fires of earth, and solar beam the same ? THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 75 In every clime before the muse's eyes, What steps of fire ; what smoking hills arise ! Lo ! Cotopaxi from his fiery throne, With rapid blazes lights the burning zone ; In realms of frost the drear Kamchatka glows; Fuego hisses in coeval snows; Yet fires more frequent rise where summer smiles On India's beauteous galaxy of isles, Where Banda's nutmeg groves the air perfume. Or rich Manilla's groves of cotton bloom ; From east to west volcanic torrents roll, Gird the vast globe, and glow at either pole. Has Erin too once felt the torrid pest ?— *■ Its records live deep graven on her breast; And time has been, when spread her vales and woods,. Where now blue ocean rolls unfathomed floods; A land where Nature wore her sweetest smile. To Plato known, and named th' Atlantic isle, 'Till mining fires, or earthquake's awful might Sunk half its peopled states in endless night. The far Ebudae, scattered though they stand, Once with her confines formed continuous land ; 76 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. And through calm seas, the swain yet views with dread The space between, with towers and cities spread. Creative fanc}% thou whose mirror bright Gives past and future to th' enraptured sight, And bids each distant scene arise pourtrayed, In all its native hues of light and shade ; Give me to view, from this basaltic pile, Huge iEtna's caves, and Hecla's flaming isle ; How fierce, how wide their fires tremendous glow, What fans their rage, and whence their lavas flow. What fiery whirlwinds raging to the sky ! What glowing rocks in long projectiles fly ! O'er fields of ice red lavas urge their way; In nine-fold strength the scalding Geysers play ; Swoln by a thousand congregating rills, Bolls the deep snow-flood down the smoking hills; And hark ! the Skrida thundering to the plain, With all its serried glaciers roars amain, Whelming the flocks — Unhappy shepherds spring, Vain is your speed without the lightning's wing : THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 11 Fire, water, frost, in horrid strife rebel, And realize th' enthusiast's dreams of hell. In Hecla these. — High-throned above the storm, Thy genius, iEtna, lifts his awful form ; Beneath his view extends a boundless scene; Kingdoms, and isles, and ocean's glassy green ; Three zones distinct his various realm enfold, Deep snows, and vernal flowers, and groves of gold : Now wrapt in clouds his giant port he hides, And shakes with dreadful peals the mountain sides, 'Till through exploding cliffs the lava sweeps; Rapid, resistless, blazing down the steeps, Onward it comes — the crackling forests bend, Towers, villas, cities, from their base descend, Melt in the mass, and with the torrent blend. The dust of desolation loads the air, And crashing domes re-echo with despair ; Where now, Catania, are thy myrtle bowers, Thy purple vineyards, and thy fields of flowers, Thy sons, thy daughters ? all deep-smouldering spread Beneath th' unsparing lava's smoking bed. *& THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Not with less ruin, on the blasted plain, See fell Vesuvius showers of cinders rain ; Such horrid shower on Sodom's towers accurst, Of wasting fire, and livid brimstone burst. Deep, deep beneath, entombed the valley lies, O'er lofty spires the arid billows rise, And a new soil mounts nearer to the skies. Fair bloomed the vine o'er where Pompeia lay, *TilI peasants' hands revealed it to the day; What scenes then burst upon the wondering sight ? A city old revealed to modern light I Thus saved through ages from severer doom, From all the plagues and swords that wasted Rome,* And time's destroying rage — its ancient frame, Its pictures, fanes and statues still the same ! Thy chambers, death, stood thickly ranged around, And many a corse adust bestrewed tlie ground ; There timid youth, and manhood's noble pride, And helpless age, and woman's beauty died ; There as she clasped her infant to her breast, Th' affrighted mother shrieked, and sunk to rest THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 79 Oft as the burning cone the heavens enshrouds. With pumice showers, and cineritious clouds, Winged with what speed the trembling natives fly, Fear in their steps, distraction in their eye ; Sons, mothers, daughters — whereso'er they turn, Sinks the loose soil, the sulphurous cinders burn. And deadly vapours mingling in the strife Arrest their speed, and close the gates of life. But mark the sage- — no fears his soul annoy, He sees the revels of the storm with joy ; As Nature's priest, the goddess hails from far, While wrapt in volleying flame she wakes the war; The fiery whirlwinds that around him roll, Shoot but congenial grandeur to his soul. Through fear-winged fleets that fly the rocking shore, Verona's sage directs his adverse prore ; Though dark around condensing vapours lour, And the deck smokes beneath the glowing shower, With quick-enquiring eye serene he stands, As though the tempest owned his guiding hands : \30 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. So stands the chief in self-collected might, Whose soul pervades, and rules the ranks of fight. Ah ! why so daring ? — Will the crater's rage Relent in pity, and respect thy age ? Already round thee floats its noxious breath ; Martyr of Nature ! 'tis the air of death. Yet glorious is thy fall on Nature's shrine, How blest, how envied is a fate like thine I Immortal glories crown the sage's brow, Virtue's best meed, the muse's sacred bough, Who dares, like Spalding, dive beneath the main, Or with De Rozier mount th* ethereal plain; Or who, like Richman, aiming to command, And grasp the forky lightning in his hand, Invites with Semele the Thunderer's fires, And in the worship that he pays, expires. Scenes yet more dire arrest the muse's view, Where earthquake wastes the climes of rich Peru. Tremendous agent of th' eternal might, Dark, silent, secret, in the realms of night, Unheard, unseen, he plans his dread designs, Scoops all his rocks, and labours all his mines. THE GIANTS* CAUSEWAY. 81 Now awful stillness reigns, as Nature lay- Entranced in woe, and feared her final day; Quivers the foliage where no zephyr roves, And beasts and birds cower trembling in the groves ; Man too stands shuddering with unwonted fear; Strange sounds appal, and boding signs appear ; In earth's dark caves terrific thunders roll, Peal bursts on peal and seems to rend the pole : Now rocks the furrowed ground, dim meteors glare, The severing ocean lays his channels bare ; Huge Andes bows — the world's long bulwarks nod, And humbled nature feels the arm of God. What now is man with all his boasted powers, His castled rocks, his pyramids and towers? Down, down the gulf his sapped foundations fall, Camps, fleets, and cities — Ruin whelms them all ! And Ocean rolls his wild infuriate flood, Where Calloa's towers this moment glittering stood. Such quick destruction by th' Eternal sent, The old foundations of Ierne rent ; The bursting shores in dread explosion pealed, And from their rooted base the mountains reeled ; 82 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. While Rathlin, severed with tremendous roar, Three leagues of ocean from her parent shore, Saw tides conflicting wildly rush between Her southern limits, and the land of green. Thus, if aright* the philosophic sage Read the dark records of creation's page, From Gallia's strand did ocean's rushing tide The chalky cliffs of Albion erst divide ; Thus earthquake's fury from Ausonia tore The sounding caverns of Trinacria's shore; And Europe saw where great Alcides' hand Fix'd the proud limits of Hesperian land, Th* Atlantic floods their feeble barriers cleave, And o'er the plain a whelming deluge heave, Where now the mid-land billows court the gales, And Afric's sands disjoin from Europe's vales. Calm midst the horrors of the rueful scene, Majestic Nature sat, and smiled serene, Planned on the reeling shores her fair designs, And built her future palaces and shrines. — THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 83 —From teeming craters, gushing dense and strong The black basaltic deluge pours along, O'ertops the chalky cliffs, the valley fills, Binds the loose soil, and links the severed hills. Here the red torrent, by the rapid shock Of frigid waters, changed to pillared rock; Or pent in caves till thrilled by tardy cold, Shot into columns of gigantic mould. Thus in the chymic vase, attraction's law Bids each fine atom kindred atoms draw : Close and more close the crouding seeds combine, Till crystal forms in fair arrangement shine. For all the various forms which nature breeds Spring from the union of organic seeds, Which, by attraction, form their compound frame, In shape, in nature, and in laws the same : Hence, in fair crystals falls the flaky snow, And hence the facets of the diamond glow. Now round these capes a holy calmness reigns, But still the pristine stamp of fire remains, Struck on each pillared promontory's head, And in the iron oxyd's vermeil bed. 84 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. The muse beholds it in the mine profound, And sees volcanic scoriae strew the ground. Yet fiercer flames shall round these cliffs aspire, When heaven has kindled nature's funeral pyre ; The rocks, the hills, the earth shall fade away, Like a thin vapour in the orient ray : Virtue alone shall lift her changeless form, And spring to heaven triumphant o'er the storm. Or, if thy genius, Whiston, right divined, Earth's ponderous orb by torturing fires refined, And changed through all its dark opacous mass, Shall roll through heaven a globe of purest glass, Heaven's image fair reflected on its breast, Formed for th' abode of saints, and spirits of the bless'd. Now see how other hands this Mole design, With plastic skill, beneath the raging brine. Neptunian Kirwan, green Ierne's pride, And he the sage of Freybourg by his side, Led by the seer inspired, whose raptured eyes First saw the heavens and earth from chaos rise THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY* 85 In the vast deluge form the fabrick dense, And with creation thus the theme commence. At first from chaos, when th' almighty king Bade earth and order, light and beauty spring ; Light robed the heavens, and glittering to the sun With poles erect the rounded planet spun ; Perennial spring adorned the hill and wood, And heaven's eternal word pronounced them good. Life with the shelly tribes its course began, Thence rose to insect, bird, and beast, and man ; .Rank upon rank in fair gradation joined^ 'Till linked to heaven by the chain of mind. Then, blessed was man, as saints in worlds above, For earth was paradise, and life was love • 'Till cursed ambition, of infernal birth, Breathed her contagious poison o'er the earth ; Seized by the pest, man grasped the hostile blade, And murder then, as now, became a trade — Crime follows crime, and smokes of carnage rise Reeking in purple volumes to the skies. 86 THE GIANTS* CAUSEWAY. u No more my spirit/' cried th' Almighty Lord, Earth trembling heard th* irrevocable word, * With graceless man an endless conflict wage, a Be loose ye torrents, let Destruction rage/' Heaven's dreaded agents on the torrents sweep, Plunge down, and rive the barriers of the deep ; Rouse into rage each congregating tide, And thrust the axis of the globe aside. Earth to her centre strange commotion feels. And rent and shattered in her orbit reels; So reels the bark, when o'er her groaning mast, The liquid mountain rolls before the blast ; Above, below, th' encreasing deluge roars, Streamsburst their banks, and oceans rive their shores. Dismayed, appalled, in vain would man retreat, Th' avenging billows croud around his feet; He climbs the pine, the rock, or high-peaked hill, But swifter fate remorseless follows still ; Wider and wider yet the deluge spreads, O'ertops the cliffs, and beats the mountain heads; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 87 Now its fierce rage insatiate swallows all, And drives, resistless, round the shoreless ball : One bark alone, the womb of nations, rides, By heaven made buoyant o'er the whelming tides. Then tossed the earth, a chaos rude and vast, Till o'er its face the brooding spirit passed, And bade the mantling elements enrobe The granite nucleus of the fractured globe. Then deep beneath, the chalky strata spread, Pressed by a ponderous, dark, basaltic bed : Hence, mingled lie the earth's and ocean's soils, And arctic regions teem with eastern spoils : On Erin's moors the wondering peasants rear Th' enormous antlers of the stranger deer; . Hence, shells in rock to ore transmuted shine, Hence, in silicious spires long serpents twine ; The dotted urchin's studs the cliffs adorn, And blue basalt is stamped with Amnion's horn. Now ceased the din of waters waste and wild, And heaven from azure skies relenting smiled ; 88 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Bent in the clouds the bow of peace is seen. Swift arid breezes sweep the floods serene ; Like isles emergent to celestial air, O'er the sunk waves the mountain tops stand bare ; Lower, and lower yet the floods descend, Now rocky shores in sinuous grandeur bend ; The mists disperse, the Lord of day returns, His brightning glory on the planet burns ; Far o'er the deep the gilded islands gleam, And emerald Erin sparkles in the beam. Like sable paste each mass basaltic lay Smooth, solid, deep, and smoking to the day, Till smote by summer's sun, and winter's wind, In jointed columns, groups on groups combined, Here raised erect, majestic o'er the brine, There curved to beauty's ever- varying line, The mass dissevering shrunk : — hence Murloch's train Of huge artillery pointing to the main ; Gigantic battery ! — Hence the capes of Doon, Curved like the watry bow, or crescent moon ; While Booshala beholds her pillared cone, Like old Alcinous' bark transformed to stone. ■i e © THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 89 Thus built, thus modelled, Dalriada's sides Resist the heavens, the whirlwinds, and the tides; As years on years in time's wide orbit wheel, They dread no change, and no abrasion feel. Druids of science, to the muse disclose From what vast source th' o'erwhelming deluge rose : Did swathing clouds the watry pest sustain, Or earth, till then, in hollow sphere contain? Or some dire comet, high surcharged with harm, Hurled through th* ecliptic by th* Eternal arm, Shower from his twisted locks the torrent strong Of big destruction, as he rolled along; Ye too unfold how water's chymic power Dissolved the fabric in that awful hour ; When sunk the strata, what prevailing cause Deposed them adverse to attraction's laws ? Say whence light sand-stone to the centre, strove, While dense basalt in grandeur towered above? O that the light of some celestial ray Would touch my soul and clear these doubts away ! N • 90 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Thus as I mused, a hoary sage drew nigh, Of aspect bland, and mind-illumined eye; To Dalriada's shores of distant fame, From fair Edina's lofty towers he came. Blest towers ! — whose genius eagle-winged pursues The boldest flights of science, and the muse $ His words flowed placid in a dulcet stream, Pouring new lustre on the rugged theme ; While, as inspired by him whose glowing car Leapt o'er the hollow globe's opposing bar, And downward wheeling through the dread unknown; Saw Nature seated on her burning throne ; He taught that central fires up-heaved the earth From ocean's depths, and gave these wonders birth. " In vain," the sage began, " would man pretend To trace of things the origin and end ; What thought has fathomed the abyss of time ? When bloomed his youth, and when began his prime ? Through endless cycles Nature lives the same, In ocean, earth, and heaven's resplendent frame. THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 91 Hers are the honours of perennial youth, Of stable grandeur, and unvarying truth j If wasting years her various forms consume, Again they thrive in renovated bloom ; Changed, not destroyed, they seek another mould, And new creations triumph o'er the old. Round the fall'n trunk, see giant forests rise ; In one small seed the germ of navies lies ; Life follows death, as death succeeds to life, Perpetual circle of harmonious strife. "Ere those tall cliffs beheld the orient sun, Earth round her poles with other aspect spun, 'Till through the lapse of long revolving age, The dash of ocean and the tempest's rage, Her yielding frame by slow corrosion wore, And to the deep's unfathomed channels bore ; Where soon the searching fires that ever glow, Far in the centre of the world below, Shot through th' incumbent waste ; while ocean's flood. Enormous depth, with ponderous pressure stood, 92 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY, Like thick-ribbed ice, or more impervious glass, Locking in grasp so close the molten mass, That no fine vapour thence could wing its flight, And rise, soft-bubbling to the bourne of light, "Then, close condensed were Ocean's shelly spoils, O'er granite, porphry, and the schistose soils, And ranged concentric round their nucleus lay, Till time once more recalled them to the day. " With what tremendous force, aerial powers, Once did ye rage in subterraneous bowers, When roused by torturing fires from all your caves, Ye swept the glowing lava's sulphurous waves; Ye then beheld the thundering waters pass Through wide rent gulfs, and changed to instant gas ; Struggling for vent again they upward roll. And burst their narrow bounds from pole to pole. *Twas nature's throe, and from the labouring frame, The solid strata, midst encircling flame, Severed and torn, their serried peaks upreared, And o'er the foamy surge the new-formed land ap- peared. THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 93 " How bold and craggy rose each mountain form, To brave the heavens, the lightning, and the storm ! Arched o'er hell's gulf their strong foundation spreads, While azure skies surround their hoary heads, Where horrid glaciers cast a dismal shade, And wildly roars unseen the fierce cascade ; Bleak, dense, immoveable !— for many an age On their rived front has burst the thunder's rage ; E'en now the sapping force of Time they feel, Again pre-doomed down ruin's gulf to reel, With all their granite rocks, and cliffs of steel. "Then, floods of lava, with impetuous force, From central regions urged their upward course ; As from the heart propelled, the blood distils Through man's fair structure, by meandering rills, So forced through many a rent, and opening pore, From earth's vast cauldrons gushed each fluid ore ; Then spread o'er Dalriada's northern side, Through chalky cliffs, a deep basaltic tide; Prismatic here the ocean's ire it braves, But towers amorphous on the hill of caves j / Thick studded o'er with zeolitic stars, Drusy, or glittering with refulgent spars ; M THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. Then many a cavern, cell, and grot profound, Saw beauteous crystals shoot their walls around, And every metal, earth, and air condense, To form the sparry cube, the rhomb, and lens. " Soon as the new-formed world beheld the day, It felt the mining touch of slow decay ; The floods retreating, all resistance mock ; Plow through the vales, and cut the channelled rock. Thus with creation, ruin's steps commence ; Thus death is mingled with the nascent ens ; Time deem not tardy, though a thousand years, To sense unchanged the mountain rock appears; A thousand years to time's eternal race, Are but an instant, as a point to space. But hark ! that crash — again more loud it roars, And louder yet — -it shakes the trembling shores, As if th' infuriate spirit of the blast, Trod down the cliffs in anger as he passed ; The fierce collision fires th' horizon round, With heedless fear the rapid wild goats bound, THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 95 The miner issuing from the quarrie's gloom, Thinks with dismay 'tis now the hour of doom. - 'Tis Benmore, struck by time's destroying mace, Crashing in thunder from his mouldering base. Thus by degrees shall Erin's shores decay, Sink her proud cliffs, her hills dissolve away. The soil where Holland's fertile gardens blow, Once strewed the mountains capt with Alpine snow; On Abyssinian hills, redundant Nile Once saw the Delta's beauteous landscapes smile. Lo ! every storm that sweeps the crumbling hill, And every shower, and cataract, and rill, And every wave that climbs the beetling steep, Abrades the rocks, and bears them to the deep. But from the mighty waste does nature's hand, Working unseen, prepare the future land; Again her central fires shall fiercely glow T , And heave new mountains from the depths below; Her plastic care o'ertakes the waster's rage, And builds new worlds on worlds from age to age. 96 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY." « Ye fair-haired wanderers of the skies sublime, For ever roll, nor fear the steps of time, For should he reach you on th' ethereal way, And shade the glories that around you play, Yet brighter lustre shall your forms illume, Yet fairer glow your renovating bloom. Immortal Newton ! throned above the spheres, Thou now can'st tell how vain are human fears ; E'en thy great soul its powers expanding feels, And hails with joy the light that Truth reveals, Recants thy errors in creation's plan, And smiles, an angel, at the doubts of man ! Tho' orbs on orbs in lessening gyres advance, Mark'd are the limits of the mystic dance ; In narrower now, and now in wider rounds, Wheel their bright globes, but ne'er o'erleap their bounds ; Yet should whole systems upon systems fall, And one tremendous ruin threaten all, *Tis change, not death; for in more beauteous skies, New suns would kindle, and new systems rise : Then roll ye orbs, in youth eternal roll, For in ye dwells a self-creating soul." THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 97 Thus taught the sage, and thus in humble rhyme, The muse essays to clothe the theme sublime : Blest should her Anderson the strain regard, Friend of the lyre, and guardian of the bard; Thou, formed by heaven, to act the critic's part, With truth, taste, judgment, and a feeling heart; I see, I see poetic shades descend To hail thee patron, father, guide and friend ; And from their laurelled heads a bough entwine, To see it bloom with fresher grace on thine ! Now low descending in th' Atlantic waves, His yellow locks the day's bright regent laves ; The lengthening shadows of the burnished steep, Shoot down the vales, or tremble on the deep ; The fisher's skiff, smooth-gliding round the shores, Displays like bars of gold her glancing oars ; The curlew's whistle echoes o'er the strand, And shrill-piped sea-larks print the yielding sand j Now from his kiln the wearied swain retires, Rich with the produce of his sea-weed fires; Slow up the cliff he winds his homeward way, Yet turns, full oft, to view the sun's departing ray. 98 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. All-powerful Nature ! how in every age, Thy charms delight the peasant and the sage ! Parent of all, or novel, grand or fair, What bosom owns not thy parental care, Feels not thy influence rapturous and divine. And yields spontaneous homage at thy shrine ? Now fair investing all the forms of things, Wide o'er the scene her tints grey Ev'ning flings, Gives to the sombre cliffs a darker hue, And robes the mountains in a deeper blue. And see where Hesper, pilot star of love, Majestic moves through yon fair fields above, With silvery light her crystal tresses teem, And playful lustres o'er the waters gleam. So shines in glory, lovely yet sublime, The bright Ascendant of our northern clime, Antrim's fair dame, when on her native shore, Land of her great heroic sires of yore, She rays the beams of ancient splendour wide, And lights her halls of hospitable pride ; Attempering soft in one harmonious whole, The woman's softness with the heroe's soul, THE GIANTS* CAUSEWAY. 99 That sweet enchantment which all hearts can please, Mildness with power, and dignity with ease. Oft may thy presence, Lady, grace the isle, Cheer thy fair glens, and make thy mountains smile, And as yon planet, from its argent way, On these bleak cliffs reflects the tide of day ; So thou, Illustrious, shed these shores around, The softened virtues of thy sires renowned; Truth's open spirit, gen'rous thirst of fame, The patriot soul, and honour's sacred flame. Sweet Contemplation, be this hour thy own, To guide aloft thy " fiery -wheeled throne." While beats the heart, transported with the view, While starts the tear to fond devotion true, Muse on the ways of him, th' almighty king, Who bade for thee such boundless glories spring. See how o'er all, eternal order reigns, In earth, and ocean, and the starry plains ; How the fierce warring elements fulfil God's wise decrees, and good educe from ill. Revenge, ambition, faction and the sword. And man's blind ire shall praise the righteous Lord,* 100 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. The phrophet's purposed curse with blessings teems; From present woe perennial comfort streams ; Taught by Misfortune's hard but useful rod, See humbled pride adore the pardoning God ; And at the shrine which pampered Affluence spurns, The sack-clothed sinner with devotion burns. What impious science bade thejpoet stray, With the blest Nine, through folly's godless way, Him who with sweet and noble frenzy sang That all from brute unconscious matter sprang ? Oh ! impotence of reason, blind and vain, How grew such folly in a sage's brain ? See as he lifts his soaring thoughts on high, And heaven's bright glories meet his raptured eye, Struck with what awe th' admiring peasant stands, Bows to his God, and spreads his suppliant hands: And shall the sage, in impious error brave, Question that power, which power to question gave ? The thought that only doubts, in folly blind, Itself confutes, for mind must spring from mind. Yes, one great cause formed this amazing scene, Fired every star, and spread yon blue serene; THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 101 Bade round the heart, life's ruddy current rofl, And breathed thro' moulded clay the thinking soul. In every wing that cuts th* aerial tides, In every fin that through the ocean glides, In every shell that studs the sea-beat strand, And bud and flower which western gales expand, Such beauty mingles with such reach of thought, As nought, save power divine, could e'er have wrought ; He, only He, with wisdom's stores replete, He in whose essence all perfections meet. E'en these bleak rocks deep stablished in the brine, Declare the sovereign architect divine : His is the storm, the whirlwind, and the shower, The blazing lightning, and the thunder's power. — When Fate, in darkness stalks her dismal round, When oceans whelm, and earthquakes rock the ground, 'Tis he who sends the dread destroyer forth, Speeds the wet South, and drives the freezing North, Who treads the surge, the bolts' swift vengeance flings, And walks upon the tempest's sounding wings, Chained down to earth, or rapt to heaven abroad,, In all we see an omnipresent God ; 102 THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. And every cause in Nature's ample reign Forms but a link of that unmeasured chain, Which holds earth, seas, and skies, and worlds un- known, Hung in stupendous poise from God's eternal throne, O thou who rul'st o'er ocean, earth, and air, Whose sov'reign power but willed, and all things were; While Nature's devious wilds my thoughts explore, Teach me to love thee, honour, and adore, In thee to hail the animating soul, That forms, supports, adorns, pervades the whole ; Thou first great cause whence all creation springs, The world's just ruler and the king of kings. Though high thou reign'st, unbounded and alone* The Lord of worlds on worlds to man unknown, Yet not a flower its bosom can unfold, With perfume rich., or diademed with gold* No not a blade that decks the vernal green, No, not a sand in ocean rolls unseen By thee Omniscient ! — Be this truth impress'd With firm devotion on thy votary's breast, THE GIANTS' CAUSEWAY. 103 Then should the earth in wild disorder run, Or night primeval seize the golden sun, No wayward fear my stedfast soul shall harm, My hope diminish, or my faith disarm. But as the eagle that exulting soars Beyond her eyry, when the whirlwind roars, And o'er the lightnings that beneath her play, Spreads her broad pinions to the blaze of day j So shall the soul o'er death's dominion rise, And mount in glory to her kindred skies; Unchained from earth, escaped her dungeon's gloom, To live and flourish in immortal bloom. END OF THE POEM. NOTES, NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. Note I. p. 3. The echoes of thy hundred eaves: The name of the county of Antrim is probably deri- ved from Tlr an ttfam, the land of caves. These abound every where along the coast, and in all its various stra- ta. Thus, they penetrate the amorphous basalt of the Cave- hill, and the Gobbiris, the red ochre of Cushendall, the pudding stone of Cushendun, and the limestone of Larne, Ballintoy, and Dunluce. Some of these caves, parti- cularly those of Cushendun and Ballintoy, are dry and roomy, affording the fishermen comfortable accommoda- tion for building their boat?, and keeping them during winter. Grace Staples' cave, between Ballycastle and Ken- ban, is remarkable for the columnarity of its sides, in which particular it resembles Fingal's cave in the island of Staffa. The cave of Port Coon, at the Giant's Causes- way, is celebrated for its fine echo, continually resound- ing tc? the dash of the waves. But no cave on the coast of Antrim can vie in grandeur with that of Dunkerry, between Port Coon, and the Bush-foot-strand. It is acces- sible only from the ocean, between two mural ridges of jet-black rock. Its lofty dome and sides are overspread NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 107 with a covering of green confervae, which suggests the idea that it might have been scooped out of solid emeraid. A crimson zone of marine plants, five or six feet in breadth, above the surface of the water, surrounds and adorns it. The extent of this cave has not been ascertained, as boats are prevented from penetrating to its extremity by the con- traction of its sides into a very narrow cleft, through which the waves are heard rolling to a considerable distance. See page 39. Dr. Ogilby ingeniously supposes that caves are formed in many instances, by the matter of whin dykes having been impeded at the time of deposition by the contiguity of the original fissures, which the dykes now occupy. He observed several caves on the coast of Antrim roofed with that particular conformation of basalt known by the name ef whindykes. Note II. p. 5. ............... As though the magic hand Of some cerulean nymph, &c. This idea was suggested by the following lines in a ma- nuscript poem of the Rev. H. Boyd, the learned translator of Dante. The welkin frowned, yet on the placid face Of the still main the mountain shadows lay, As if some airy pencil deigned to trace Their giant features on the gloomy bay. Note III. p. 6. Seek Dalriadas ivild romantic shore. Cairbre Riada, son of Conaire the second, king of Ire- land, gave his name to the four lower baronies of the county of Antrim, commonly called the R.oute. A colony under the command of this prince, emigrated to Argyleshire in Scotland, and settled in a Dal, or district, which still re- tains his name. " Duce Reuda de Hibernia progressi, vel amicitia, vel fer- ro, sibimet inter eos sedes, quas hactenus habent, vendica- 108 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. runt : a quo videlicet duce, usque hodie, Dalreudini voean» tur : nam lingua eorum Dal partem significat. Bed. lib. I. C. 1. Dalriada is the appellation adopted in the poem for tht county of Antrim in general. Note IV. p. 10. Thus Death and S/«, Iffc. Deep to the roots of hell the gathered beach They fastened, and the mole immense wrought on Over the foaming deep high-arched, a bridge Of length prodigious, joining to the wall Immoveable of this now fenceless world, Forfeit to death, from hence a passage broad, Smooth, easy, inoffensive down to hell. Paradise Lost, Book 10. Note V. p. 11. When Jirst to Staffas cavertted shores they came. Fingal's cave in./ the island of Staffa has been described with such accuracy and taste by Sir Joseph Banks, that any attempt at farther description would be perilous to the writer, and to the reader superfluous. He has, however, omitted one remarkable circumstance, which is its musical echo... a circumstance the more curious, as it probably gave a name to the cave, Uagh na bh'ine^ signifying the musical grotto,* being corrupted into IJagh na i7«, to favou.f Macpherson's imposture. Mr. Pennant has fallen into a strange error, and incorrect- ness of expression j when he says, in his reference to Sir J. Banks' description, that Staffa is a genuine mass of basaltes, or Giants' Causeway, but itt most respects superior to the Irish in grandeur. Had he contented himself with saying that Fingal's cave excels in regularity of structure, any cave on the coast of Antrim, he might have obtained credit. But to assert that the grandeur of Staffa will bear any compa- rison with the scenery of the Giants' Causeway and its neigh-? * See the scientific geography of Pinkerton, NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 109 bourhood, is so extravagant, that any one who repeats it, may be fairly suspected of having never made both places the objects of contemplation. The whole extent of Staffa is scarcely a mile in length, and not half that space in breadth, and its greatest elevation does not exceed 128 feet. What is this compared to the grand range of promontories from Port Noffer to Bengore ; an undulating line of coast, extend- ing upwards of three miles, and rising in some places, as at Pleaskin, to an elevation of nearly 400 feet, presenting, in a continued series of semicircular bays, in its gigantic col- onnades, and the fantastic variety of its rocks, the most magni- ficent and unparalleled scenery? If, in the grand features of sublimity, Staffa sinks below comparison with the Antrim coast, it is also greatly inferior t>oth in variety and beauty. It has been justly observed by Hamilton that "the best specimens of pillars at Staffa, are not comparable to those of the Giants' Causeway, in neatness of form, or singularity of articulation." Note VI. p. IS. Three days thrice told on Odin loud they call. u Every ninth month the Scandinavians repeated a detesta- ble ceremony of human sacrifices, which lasted nine days, on each of which they immolated nine of their fellow-crea- tures. The altars of these tragedies were composed of large stones, which neither the ravages of time, nor the zeal of the first converts to Christianity, have been altogether able to destroy. Stonehenge was probably one of them. For the Britons, as well as all the Celts, Italians, Carthaginians, Phoe- nicians, and in short, all the nations we read of in Europe and Asia, lie under the opprobrium of the same abominable and bloody practice." The machinery of the Scandinavian mythology, here em- ployed, is justified by the supposition that the Danes intro- duced their religious rites into Ireland and the Hebrides. The Cromlechs and large circles of stones and earth so fre- quent in Ireland, are supposed by many to be the remains of the Scandinavian superstition, Macphergoa yrz\ aware of 1 10 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. this, when he introduced the spirit of Loda, the same as O- din, into the poem of Carrick Thura, and brought him int» conflict with the hero of his fictions. « c The Edda, or religious code of the Scandinavians, reckons up twelve gods and as many goddesses. Odin, the chief, is characterized by the titles of Father of the slain, and the Lord of graves. Thor, the most valiant of his sons, is represent- ed as armed with a mace, which he grasps invincibly with gauntlets of iron. The giants, against whom the Gods wa- ged frequent war, are denominated " sons of Frost." Loke is the principle of evil, and Heia, of death. Loke, in his wars with the gods, was discomfited. He was seized, and shut up in a cavern, where he rages with such violence, that he is the cause of all our earthquakes. In Valhalla, the par- adise of the brave, the souls of those who fell in battle, quaf- fed beer and mead from the skulls of their slain foes. The Gods had made a bridge between heaven and earth ; this bridge is the rain-bow. To prevent the giants from ascend- ing by it into heaven, it was constantly guarded by the porter, Heimdal, whom it was impossible to surprise ; for the Gods had given him the faculty of sleeping more lightly than a bird, and of discovering objects by day or night, further than the distance of a hundred leagues. He had also an ear so fine, that he could hear the very grass grow in the mead- ows, and the wool on the backs of the sheep. The sister fates, or Valkyriur, were servants of Odin. Their name sig- nifies Chusers of the slain. They were m&unted on swift horses, with drawn swords in their hands, and in the throng of battle, selected such as were destined to slaughter, and conducted them to Valhalla." See Sullivan's view of Nature... The Edda... And note to Gray's fatal Sisters. Note VII. p. 16. Genius of 0ssian t &c. Irish historians, long before the names of Fingal and Mac- pherson were ever heard of, could give an exact account and genealogy of our renowned bard. Fin Mac Cumhal was NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. Ill not, as Macpherson represents his hero, the king of Mor- ven, in Scotland, but general of the Fiona Eirionn, under Cormac, grandson of Conn, of the hundred battles. His son Oisin, equally distinguished for valour and poetical genius, became the chief of the clan na Bbiskine. He headed the Fiona Eirionn in a revolt against Carbre-Liffeachair, monarch of Ireland. In the disastrous battle of Gabhra, his son Os- car fell by the hand of the monarchy who was himself slain. Oisin, one of the few who escaped^ it is said, became blind, and survived till the arrival of St. Patrick, with whom he held frequent conversations respecting Christianity. But no credit is to be given to a supposition, founded only on some monkish legends, which would make the years of the hoary bard double the three generations of Nestor. There is not a single poem extant, which can be clearly traced to Oisin. " Scotland canont produce any literary monument, written be- fore the tenth or eleventh century. Macpherson himself says that the monks of the abbey of Hy, founded by an Irishman, in the sixth century, were the only persons within the ter- ritories of the Scots, who could record events, of course these poems must have been preserved, if preserved they were, from the third to the sixth century, by oral tradi- tion." Credat Judaius Apella.- Campbell's Strictures on the Literary and Ecclesiastical History of Ireland. The reasonings of Dr. Johnson on this subject, might have been deemed conclusive. Every succeeding investigation serves to corroborate their truth. The result of Dr. Young's inquirv, (and who has been a more candid inquirer than Dr„ Young) is well known, and the question concerning the for- gery of Macpherson's Centos, notwithstanding the late at- tempts to impose certain translations from the English Ossian into Erse, as originals, on the Gaelic society in Edinburgh, h for ever decided. See a most excellent dissertation on this subject by Mr. Laing, annexed to his history of Scotland. 112 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. Note VIII. p. 17. S$es their light Corraghs ride the northern foam. The corragh is a small boat composed of wattles, and covered with hides. These boats are still employed on the western shores of Ireland. Vallancey remarks that they were in use from the Western ocean to the Nile. See Lucan'* Pharsalia, book IV. line 131. Primum cana salix ; thus trans- lated by RoWe : The bending willow into barks they twirte, Then line the work with spoils of slaughtered kine ; Such are the floats Venetian fishers know, Where, in dull marshes stands the settling Po ; On such, to neighbouring Gaul, allured by gain, The bolder Britons cross the swelling main. Note IX. p. 18. ....Deirdre's fatal charms, jfeoused all the valour of the isle to arms, Deirdre, the Helen of Irish History, was the daughter of Feidlin, son of the prime minister of Concovar, king of Uls- ter. A Druid had prophesied at her birth, that she should prove the cause of innumerable calamities to her country. To frustrate this prediction, Concovar confined her like a second Danae, in a strong tower. She grew in years and beauty, and having, one snowy day, espied a raven feeding on the blood of a calf, she wished to have a lover, whose skin might emulate the whiteness of snow, his hair the glos- sy hue of the raven's wing, and his cheek the bloom of the crimson gore. Naois, one of the sons of Usnach, whose person corresponded to this description, was informed of Deir- dre's wish by her governess, and introduced into the for- tress. At the instigation of his fair mistress, Naois prevail- ed on his two brothers, Ainle and Ardan, to assist him in forcing the tower, and deliver her from captivity. The de- sign succeeded, and Naois fled to Albin or Scotland, with his prize, accompanied by his brothers. The nobles of Uls- ter, regretting the exile of the sons of Usnach, whom they NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 1 13 held in high estimation, made a successful application to Con- covar, to allow them to return to their native country. But the treacherous king, though he had given two hostages for their security, put them to the sword, and had Deirdre car- ried to his court. The two hostages, Feargus and Conloin- gios, justly exasperated at the perfidy of Concovar, levied troops, and took a desperate and bloody revenge. Deirdre remaining inconsolable for her beloved Naois, Concovar de- termined that she should become the wife of the officer who had slain her husband. But from this new calamity she escaped by a lucky spring fom her chariot, by which she terminated at once her sufferings and her life. The author is informed that there is a cave on the Coast of Cantire, called Deirdre's cave ; and a stone erected in a field near Lisanoor, in the county of Antrim, is said to mark the grave of the Clan na Uisneach. On the summit of Knock- laid stands a cairn, called cam an truir, or the cairn of the three, but of what three, tradition does not record. The rock named Craig an Uisneach, at Bemnore, points out the place where Uisneach was drowned. Note X. p. 18. Or great Tiroxven, on the Saxon horde, Proved the keen temper of Ultonias sivord. The following character of Hugh O'Nial, the famous earl of Tyrone, is abridged from a note in Campbell's Strictures on the Ecclesiastical and Literary History of Ire- land. " This extraordinary man was an illegitimate branch of that royal stock, which had supplied the throne of Ireland with many monarchs. He was bred up under the best masters in England, and received with favour at the court of Elizabeth. Having obtained a command of men in Ireland • he took care to instruct them in the art of war, and without appearing to encrease the number of his troops, he was always dismissing, and attaching to his person, the old soldiers whom he had formed, and gathering recruits to learn the tactical exercise. As the house of O'Nial had always proved refractory to Eng- Q. 1 14 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. lish government, the queen thought it good policy to invest Hugh with the earldom of Tyrone, as a counterpoise to the influence of the legitimate blood. The horizon of O'Nial's ambition now began to widen ; he looked down upon his new dignity, and, like others of his family, was heard to declare, that he would rather be O'Nial of Ulster, than king of Spain, then the most potent monarch of Europe. Before he ventured to strike a blow, he imported vast quantities of lead, under the pretext of roofing his castle of Dungannon, which he melted into bullets. At length, when his mine was ready for explosion, he attacked Marshal Bagnal, at the head of a numerous army, and after slaying the marshal with his own hand, he laid sixteen hundred English dead in the passes of Tyrone. He now threw off the mask, set up the standard of inde- pendence, disclaimed the dignity of earl, and, as if his illegiti- macy had been cancelled, he was acknowledged by his kin- dred, as the head of their sept, and hailed by the darling title of O'Nial. He found his country distracted and dispirited. Depression from within, and oppression from without, had spread uni- versal disunion and distrust. He attached his friends; he gain- ed his enemies ; he infused his own enterprising spirit into all around him; he united all Ireland into one great cause After we consider all this, and associate it with the backward condition of his country, who can deny him the praise of a great man ? That historian will give the justest portrait of his character, who draws him as he was, a compound of vir- tue and vice in the extreme. If his versatility did sometimes degenerate into duplicity, let candour consider the feeble in- struments he had to work with, and the powers he had to cope withal, led by the greatest generals of the time, Norris, Essex, and Mountjoy. Above all, let it be observed that fi- nesse was not all on his side, for it is not the attribute of a rude people ; and it should never be forgotten that Ire- land was at all times more sinned against than sinning." NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 1 ] 3 Note XI. p. 18. Or Sourlebuoy, from lonely glen or hill., Poured through the martial pipe his pibroch shrill. Towards the middle of the sixteenth century, the Mac Donnells, from Argyleshire, established themselves in the north of Ireland. Alexander Mac Donnell, for his services against the Scots, was presented by the earl of Sussex with a gold sword, and silver gilt spurs ; and had the monas- tery of Glenarm, and the lands belonging thereto, granted him.* He also laid claim to the estates of the Mac Quil- lans, and had his claims ratified by James the first. The numerous quarrels which ensued between the Mac Quillans and Mac Donnells, were finally decided at the battle of Aura. Sourlebuoy, i. e. Samuel the swarthy, son of Alexander Mac Donnell, and a daughter of Mac Cane, was seated at Dunluce, and during the rebellion of Shane O'Neil, was taken prisoner, and confined by him, until enlarged, in or- der to procure the assistance of his brother Alexander, and the Scots under his command, to withstand the lord depu- ty Sidney. The Scots went to O 'Neil's camp, on pretence of assisting him, but in revenge of former injuries, hewed him and his followers to pieces. A. D. 1567. July 4, 1569, Sourlebuoy being encamped at Margy, near Ballycastle, with some well-armed Highlanders, was attack- ed by Edward Mac Ouillan, whom he repulsed, and obliged to retreat, with the loss of one of his brothers, and a number of men. Sourlebuoy now became the assailant, and in a se- cond battle, fought at the head of Glenshesk, slew another of the Mac Quillans, and forced their army to retreat to- wards Aura. Here they were joined by Charles O'Neil of Claneboy, and Hugh Mac Phelemy Roe O'Neil, from Ty- rone, who, being esteemed an able general, was entrusted with the command of the forces. Sourlebuoy being also re- inforced, determined on a battle, and marching to the war- * Lodge's peerage. 116 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. like music of four Highland pipes, commenced the attack. But he was worsted in this engagement, and had to. lament the fall of three of his bravest officers. O'Neil had expected a considerable number of men to join his standard, and had they arrived, he might have obtained a decisive victory. But two of his servants, one of them a High- land piper, named O'Kain, whom he had charged with miscon- duct, deserted to the enemy, and represented the advantages of attacking O'Neil, before his succours approached. O'Kain proposed to go in the character of a messenger from O 'Neil's camp, to inform the commander of the expected reinforce- ment, that his services were not required, as Sourlebuoy had been already defeated. The wary chieftain approved this advice, and laid a stratagem for the defeat of his enemy, which was attended with complete success. He collected a number of women on Drimidder, a mountainous ridge in view of O'Neil's men, or, as is more probable, he arrayed some of his men in female attire, either to irritate O'Neil by an expression of contempt, or to inspire the idea that his men were in a state of disorder, and might be easily subdued. O'Neil was heard to boast that he would soon go and dis- perse the f-.nale camp. This happened on the day previous to the battle. During the night, Sourlebuoy employed his men in digging up rushes, which he laid carefully across a bog, near the intended scene of action, forming a narrow path, over which a line of infantry might pass securely, and so artificially constructed, that the enemy might mistake them for the natu- ral produce of the soil. On the morning of July 13, 1569, Sourlebuoy being join- ed by a number of allies, under the command of Hugh Mac Aulay, from the Glynns, sent out a detachment of his men, with two officers, and as many Highland pipers, to provoke the enemy to action. He had, at the same time, appointed a number of men, women, and boys, armed with long poles, under flying colours, to appear at a distance advancing in form of a military reinforcement. O'Neil determined to commence the attack, before this supposed reinforcement could join Sour- lebuoy. In the confidence of victory he said " the Highland* NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 1 17 ers will not be a breakfast for us." One Mac Illmoyle in his camp replied, " Take care they don't be your supper." " That they will not," said O'Neil, " even with your assistance, you Buddaugh, and you may go over to them if you will." This insult cost him Ins life ; for, according to the observation of Plutarch, the generality of men, are more apt to resent a con- temptuous word, than an unjust action. Mac Illmoyle desert- ed during the conflict, and cut down O'Neil in the retreat. Sourlebuoy's men being near the bottom of the hill, their fire did great execution, while that of his enemy being ill-directed from above, had but little effect. O'Neil seeing his men fall, commanded the cavalry to charge. Sourlebuoy did not sus- tain the attack, but retreated over the bog by the rush path which he had previously constructed. The horsemen rashly pursued, and being engulfed, and tied to their saddles, accord- ing to the custom of the age, were quickly dispatched. O'Neil, accompanied by a faithful servant, fled, but they were overta- ken and slain. The cairns of both are still to be seen, where they fell, on great Aura. After this victory, Sourlebuoy was invited, with all liis men, by the Mac Aulays of the Glynns, to dine on the S. E. side of Trostan. They feasted four days, and erected a cairn, which is still known by the name of Cas- Jin Sourlebuoy. After the defeat, Mac Ouillan's men were entirely disper- sed, and he himself sought refuge in an island of Lough-linch. Coll Doenagapple, and Owen Gar Magee, two of Sourlebuoy's cousins, cast lots, to decide who of them should swim to the island, and attack him, as no boat could be procured. The lot fell on Magee, and he swam to the island, carrying his sword in his teeth ; and after a well-contested battle, cut off Mac Quiilan's head, and thus terminated the wars of these two rival clans. Charles O'Neil was slain by a Highlander whom he insulted, and buried under a cairn, known by the name of Cruik na Dhu- ine, near Cushendun. Old Edward Mac Quillan, having lost his estates, and his three sons became blind with grief. But in the course of a year, having recovered the sight of ©ne eye, he went to Lon- 118 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. tdon, and made a representation of his misfortunes to, the king, and received, in recompence of his lost territory, a grant of the barony of Innishowen, which he foolishly exchanged with Sir John Chichester, for a small estate in the neighbour- hood of Ballymena. Frugality never formed the characteristic of an Irish chief. R. Oge Mac Quillan sold his estate to one of the Chichesters ; the money was soon spent, and the family of the Mac Quillans extinguished.* In 1573, Sourlebuoy was made a free denizen of Ireland, and sworn to be a true subject. But he seems to have al- ways felt uneasy under the British yoke. The following an- ecdote, preserved by tradition, will illustrate the character of this haughty and high-spirited chieftain. When the let- ters patent from England, confirming his title to his estates, arrived at Dunluce, he ordered a large fire to be kindled, and drawing his sword, cut the parchment in pieces, and flung it into the flames, declaring, "that the lands which he had won by the sword, should never be held by a sheep- skin." In 1575, he assaulted the garrison of Carrickfergus, slew captain Baker with his lieutenant, forty soldiers, and some inhabitants ; and though forced to retire, and come to terms of submission, we find him again in arms, in 1584, assisted by a numerous body of auxiliaries from the isles, and determined to hold the Route and the Glynns by force. During the prosecution of the war, now levied against the English, the following singular contest took place between Alexander, the son of Sourlebuoy, and Captain Merry- man. * s Alexander being a daring young fellow, and a good swordsman, showed himself at the head of his men, and cal- led for Merryman to answer him in single combat ; which a Gallinglasse (standing on the outside of the English, say- ing he was the man,) accepted. They encounter, and A- lexander's target being at the first biowe by the Gallinglasse axe beaten to his head, was astonished j but soon recouer-. •Hamilton*, NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 119 ing himselfe, got within the other, and with his sword, cleft his head, so as he left him for dead, which Merryman seeing, who was not far off, met Alexander, so as with sword and target they held for a fewe blows and a good iight ; but Alexander being sore hurt by the Captaine on the legge, withdrew, and got himself out of the field, to ease and dresse his wound.*" Merryman had little honour in a victory which he stele by wounding in the leg, contrary to the law of arms, an antagonist weakened by a previous conflict. After the re- treat of his men, Alexander endeavoured to conceal him- self under a covering of turf and hurdles. But being found out, his head was struck off, and set upon a pole, at the castle of Dublin. Sourlebuoy having gone thither to treat with the deputy, was desired by one of the courtiers to behold the ghastly visage of his son. To this ruthless and in- sulting speech, the chief replied with just indignation and unbroken spirit, " my son hath many heads." But whatever projects he might still plan for the support of his indepen- dence, he was finally obliged to submit. Sir John Perrot having taken his castle of Dunluce, with all his islands and loughs, prevailed on him to sue for protection, and he was accordingly restored to her Majesty's favour.f He died 1589. Some of the principal facts recorded in this note, are extrac- ted from two well authenticated manuscripts obligingly com- municated by Dr. Mc DonnelL Note XII. p. IS. Noiv to the heughs of black polluted shade, He sees the fere e Monro ivith gory blade. The heughs, commonly known bv the name of the Gobbin heugh, from Cob, the mouth, ben a promontory, and keugh a * Government of Ireland, under Sir John Perrot. Edit. London. 1626. f Lodge's peerage. 120 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. craggy declivity, are a long ridge of prependicular rock, about 203 feet high, forming the N. E. boundary of the peninsula of Magee. There are two castles in this peninsula, castle Chi- chester, near the isthmus, and the other, now a ruin, op* posite Port Muck. There are also several cromlechs, or dru- idical altars ; and at the E. Side of Brown's bay, a large stone called the Giant's cradle, so nicely balanced, that a small force will put it into motion, though the utmost strength of many men could not overturn it. In times of remote antiquity, this stone might have been employed as a proper instrument to im- pose on the credulity of an ignorant and superstitious people. "It was usual with the Egyptians," according to Mr. Bryant, " with much labour to place one vast stone upon another, for a religious memorial ; the stones thus placed, they poised of- tentimes so equally, that they were affected with the least external force, nay, a breath of wind would sometimes make them vibrate." The story alluded to in the poem, by poetical licence, and in conformity to vulgar tradition, is, that a number of Ro- man Catholics, in the rebellion of 1641, were precipitated over the Gobbins. Monro, the commander of some Scotch puritans in the garrison of Carrickfergus, is said to have been the perpetrator of this atrocity, and the cliffs are still shown to the eye of fancy, distained with the blood of the unhappy vic- tims. Some of our late historians have alledged that not fewer than 3000 persons suffered in that disgraceful transaction. It is, however, with pleasure, that the author finds it in his power to expose an exaggeration so extravagant. It appears from a minute and faithful examination of the depositions lod- ged in Trinity College, by the very relations of those who suffered, that not more than thirty persons, (not thirty fa- milies, as Dr. Leland supposes,) were put to death, and not by precipitation over the Gobbins, but in their own houses. The cause assigned for an atrocity sufficiently enormous, without the aid of exaggeration, was revenge for some outrages committed against the protestants in a neighbouring district. This shock- ing transaction took place in January 1642; the rebellion com- menced October 1641. But notwithstanding, it has been late- NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 121 ly asserted in Plowden's History, and Clarendon quoted as au- thority, that it preceded the rebellion. Clarendon asserts the very reverse. "The rebellion," says he, "broke out, without so much as the least pretence of a quarrel, or hostility as much as apprehended by the protestants." Party spirit, fear, hatred, and other passions always aggra- vate. The crimes committed both by protestants and catho- lics during the rebellion of 1641, have been delineated in col- burs the most odious, and shapes the most disgusting. Even the philosophical historian, Hume, has suffered himself to be- come the dupe of imposition, in adopting as facts the state- ments of prejudice and misrepresentation j and on no occasion is he more eloquent than in his highly coloured and erroneous description of the rebellion of 1641. That many atroci- ties were committed by both parties, though not a fourth part of the number alledged, is unhappily too true. But it would be wise to give way to the natural effect of time, in drawing a veil over them, and adopt a mutual spirit of conci* liation. Note 3tlII. p. 19, Hail, patriot Walker hail ! " Mr. George Walker, so justly famous for his defence of Derry, (when Lundey, the governor, would have surrendered it to King James,) was born of English parents, in the county of Tyrone, and educated in the university of Glasgow ; he was afterwards rector of Donoughmore, not many miles from the city of Londonderry. Upon the revolution, he raised a regi- ment for the defence of the protestants ; and upon intelligence of King James having a design to besiege Londonderry, retired thither, being at last chosen governor of it. After the raising of that siege, he came to England, where he was most graci- ously received by their Majesties, and on the 19th November, 1689, received the thanks of the house of commons, having just before published an account of that siege, and had a present of =£5000. He was created D. D. by the university of Oxford, on 26th February, 1690, on his return to Ireland, where he was killed the beginning of July, at the passage of 122 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. the Boyne, having resolved to serve that campaign, before he took possessson of his Bishoprick. Birch. " The flesh of horses, dogs, and vermin, hides, tallow and other nauseous substances, were purchased at extravagant pri- ces, and eagerly devoured. Even such miserable resource* began to fail, and no means of sustenance could be found for more than two days. Still the languid and ghastly crouds listened to the exhortations of Walker ; still he assured them from the pulpit that the Almighty would grant them a deliver- ance. While their minds were yet warm with this harangue, delivered with all the earnestness of a man inspired, they dis- covered three ships in the lough, making way to the town. On these interesting objects, both the garrison and the besiegers fixed their eyes in all the eagerness of suspense and expec- tation. The enemies, from their battery, from their muske- try, thundered furiously on these ships, which returned their fire with spirit. The foremost of the victuallers struck rap- idly against the boom,* and broke it, but, rebounding with violence, ran aground. The enemy burst instantly into shouts of joy, and prepared to board her; on the crouded walls, the garrison stood stupified by despair. The vessel fired her guns, was extricated by the shock, and floated. She passed the boom, and was followed by her companions. The town was relieved, and the enemy retired." Leland. Note XIV. p. 19. They poured their radiance on Iernes plains. That learning flourished in Ireland, when the rest of Eu- rope was immersed in ignorance and barbarity, is a truth supported by indubitable authority. " The testimony of Bede * " To prevent supplies by water, the enemy had stretch- ed from two opposite forts, a boom across the Foyle, formed of strong timber, joined by iron chains, and strengthened by thick cables.'* NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 123 Is unquestionable, that about the middle of the seventh cen* tury, in the days of the venerable prelaies, Finian and Cole- man, many nobles, and other orders of the Anglo-Saxons, re- tired from their own country into Ireland, either for instruc- tion, or for an opportunity of living in monasteries of strict- er discipline, and that the Scots, as he stiles the Irish, main- tained them, taught them, and furnished them with books, without fee or reward." " A most honourable testimony," says .Lord Lyttleton, " not only to the learning, but likewise to the bounty and hospitality of that nation. A conflux of foreign- ers to a retired island, at a time when Europe was in igno- rance and confusion, gave peculiar lustre to that seat of learn- ing ; nor is it improbable or surprising, that seven thousand students studied at Armagh, agreeably to the accounts of Irish writers, though the seminary of Armagh was but one of the numerous colleges erected in Ireland." " But the labours of the Irish clergy were not confined to their own country. Their missionaries were sent to the continent. They converted heathens ; they confirmed believ- ers; they erected convents; they established schools of learn- ing ; they taught the use of letters to the Saxons and Nor- mans; they converted the Picts by the preaching of Col- umkill, one of their renowned ecclesiastics. Burgundy, Ger- many, and other countries received their instructions, and Europe confessed the superior knowledge, the piety, the zeal, the purity of the Island of Saints." Note XV. p. 20. Yet iv'tth regret let memory fond retrace The long-lost honours of the tuneful race. Keating informs us that the Milesians brought into Ireland a musician and a poet, both eminent in their respective arts, Each of the Milesian leaders, Heber and Heremon, was anxi- ous to retain them in his train, and they agreed to decide their claims by lot. The musician fell to Heber, and the poet to Heremon. The former communicated a taste for music to the Southern, and the latter a love of poetry to the northern 124 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. * part of the island, a distinction which, some contend, remains till this day. The Bards were invested with peculiar privileges, and held in the highest estimation by the kings and nobles of Ireland. They were freed from all taxes and contributions; their houses were esteemed sanctuaries, and their persons sacred ; lands and revenues were conferred on them ; and in addition to their stated salary, they received a liberal reward for each of their poetical compositions. Cairbre Muse, a poet in the reign of Oilliol Olum, was rewarded with a present of the two districts of Ormond for an ingenious panegyric on his prince. This was the golden age of the Irish Bards. Similar honours were conferred on their poets by all the Northern nations. The Scalds of Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, were held in the highest estimation both by their princes and the people. " Harald Harfagar placed them a- boveall the officers of his court. Many princes entrusted them, both in peace and war, with commissions of the utmost im- portance. They were rewarded with magnificent presents, golden rings, glittering arms, and rich apparel. In a word, the poetic art was held in such estimation, that great lords, and even kings, did not disdain to cultivate it with the utmost pains themselves.*" The honours and. immunities of the Irish Bards having ad- ded greatly to their numbers, they became a burden to the people obliged to support them. Every poet of the first rank had thirty of inferior note as his attendants ; and every one of secondary rank fifteen. The influence of the crown had to be repeatedly exercised to repress their insolence, and four times they were in danger of being banished, or put to death. Un- der Connor Macneasa, king of Ulster, the people had formed a determination to banish them, but by the interference of the king, they were allowed seven years of probation. During that time they rendered themselves less obnoxious to the people, and the persecution ceased. The princes of Ulster Mallet's Northern Antiquities. NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 125 were always their avowed patrons and advocates. Fiachad, the dynast of that province, saved them from a second perse- cution, and kindly entertained them for a whole year. A third time they were saved from banishment by Maolchabha another prince of Ulster. Untaught by experience, they became in the reign of Aodh, or Hugh, A. D. 558, a greater grievance to the people than be- fore, and indulged their insolence to such a pitch that they de- manded the golden bodkin, which fastened the royal robes, a jewel of singular virtue, and of hereditary right inalienable from the king. This demand provoked the monarch, and he summoned a council of his nobles to Dromceat, to pass a law for their suppression. The timely intercession of Collum- Kill mollified the king, and it was agreed that the college of the poets should be reformed, not suppressed, and that the king, and every provincial prince, and lord of a Cantred should retain one poet, to record the exploits and genealogy of his family. The Bard had to attend his patron to the field of battle, and his harp was not less necessary to animate the spirit of the con- flict, than the rude music of the bag-pipe in more modern times. «* The ode composed for the occasion was called Rosg Catha, the eye of battle. Numbers of these odes are yet preserved. Many are beautiful, animating, and seem evidently by their measure to have been sef to martial music.*" The Bards also sang the Caoine or funeral dirge of slain warriors, and at the grand feast of Samhuin, or the moon, re- cited sacred odes, as, it is probable, they did also at the grand festivals of Beal Tinne, and Lugnasa, when fires were kindled, and sacrifices ©ffered on every hill throughout the island, to Beal or the Sun, the grand object of national worship. By their strains they regulated the movements of the Riiikey or martial dance, and perhaps bore a distinguished part in the sa- cred dance, in which, according to some of our antiquaries, the Druids " observed the revolutions of the year, by dancing a- bout our round towers." O'Halloran. 126 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. Spenser has given his testimony in favour of the poetical merits of the Bards' compositions ; and though he could see them only through the cold medium of translation, he acknow- ledges " that they savoured of sweet wit, and good invention, and were sprinkled with some pretty flowres of their naturalL device which gave good grace and comlinesse unto them." At the same time he laments, and it is to be feared too justly, that they prostituted their powers of song to the service of vice. Instead of uniting in their own persons, as their predecessors had done, the character of historian, judge, poet, philosopher, and the instructor of youth, they made the licentious and lawless the objects of their panegyric, and so far from in- structing "young men in moral discipline, they themselves did more deserve to bee sharply disciplined." Like the Bards of Wales, they took a decided part in opposing the English power, and by their animated strains in which they dwelt on the exploits of their ancestors, and the sweets of liberty, the ruin of their country, and the rapacity of her invaders, foment- ed a spirit of rebellion which could be allayed, only by the ex- tinction of their order. To effect this, several rigorous laws were enacted against them, in the reigns of Edward III. Henry VIII. and Elizabeth. They were obliged to seek the protection, of solitude and concealment. Surrounded by the wild scenery of their rocks and mountains, they poured out their expiring notes with exquisite and inimitable pathos. Their numbers gradually diminished; and their profession, yielding to the progress of civilization and refinement, at length became ex- tinct. Note XVI. p. 22. The holy circuit of the round tower led. There are three round towers in the county of Antrim,, including Ram's-island, one of which, stands on that Island, a second within half a mile of Antrim, and a third at Ar- moy. These singular structures, according to some of our Irish antiquaries were erected by the Ostmen, as belfries, and this opinion is ably supported by Dr. Ledwich : others fancy,, NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 12? for the idea is without foundation, that they are monuments of Ascetic superstition, like that erected by Simon Stylites; and a third class, headed by .General Vallancey, that they are the same as the Persian Pyratheia, or Phoenician deposi- tories of the sacred fire. That they were designed for some religious purpose, then, is generally agreed ; and the opinion that they are of Eastern origin, may also seem probable, by the following extract form Lord Valentia's travel s» " I was much pleased with the sight of two very singu- lar round towers about a mile N. W. of the town of Bhaugul- pore. They much resemble those buildings in Ireland which have hitherto puzzled the antiquaries of the sister kingdom, except that they are more ornamented. It is singular that there is no tradition concerning them, nor are they held in any respect by the Hindoos of the country. The Rajah of Iyenag- ur considers them as holy, and has erected a small building to shelter the great number of his subjects who annually come to worship here." The round tower of Antrim has been accurately described in the Belfast Magazine for June, 1809, p. 424. "This tower is perfectly round, both internally and externally, and is but little impaired by time ; it is SO feet high, and tapers about 1 8 feet from the top, in form of a sugar loaf; it is 52 feet in girth near the base, and seemingly about 36 near the top, before it begins to taper. At the ground are two circles of stones, pro - jecting about eight inches each : nine feet above these stones is a small door facing the north, there are no steps up to the door, nor any appearance of its ever having had such. There are three tiers of loop holes for the admission of air and light ; those near the top are round, and correspond to the four car- dinal points; within are places in the wall for resting beams, evidently for the purpose of making the tower into stories. The masonry is good, and the wall upwards of three feet thick; the loop holes and doors are arched with hewn stone." Note XVII. p. 20. To urge them furious on the robber Dane. The Danes made their first appearance in a formidable body *>n the coast of Ireland, in the reign of Aodh or Hugh of the 128 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST, posterity of Heremon A. D. 820, and for more than 200 yea*s spread terror and devastation through every part of the island. The moet successful and cruel of these ravagers was Turgesius, a robber of the royal line of Denmark. He usurped supreme power, and for the space of 1 3 years exercised the most unpa- ralleled cruelty. He was at length surprised and put to death by the king of Meath, for whose daughter he indulged a crimi- nal passion. The king of Meath, on pretence of saving his daughter from the shame of public prostitution, begged Turge- sius to desist from his importunities for only one night, and that he would send his daughter, with a suitable retinue of fif- teen of the fairest virgins in Meath, to his palace the night fol- lowing. In the mean time, he selected fifteen beardless youths of high spirit and resolution, and, having arrayed them in fe- male attire, with a sharp dagger under the vest of each, sent them in place of the fifteen virgins to the palace of Turgesius. They were kindly welcomed by the Danish nobles who had been invited to share their favours. But the youths requited their kindness in a manner very unexpected ; for when Turge- sius laid hold of the princess of Meath, they instantly drew their daggers, and buried them in the hearts of the Danes. Turgesius according to a previous plan, was bound, and brought before the king of Meath ; who deeming him un- worthy of the death of a warrior, ordered him to be thrown into Loch Ainnin, where he perished. But the destruction of this tyrant, and his barbarian accom- plices, did not free Ireland from the predatory excursions of the Northern Rovers. They continued to sweep the coast with all the desolation of fire and sword, and the island of saints changed its character for that of a land of blood-shed and de- vastation. At length the Danes in a decisive battle fought in the field of Clontarf, near Dublin, on good friday, April 23, 1034, were defeated by Brian Boiromhe, with so great a car- nage, that they were never afterwards able to oppose the Irish arms. The character of Brian is depicted by Irish historians in all the glowing colours of panegyric. They represent him 3s pos- sessed of every virtue public and private, a philosopher and poet, a consummate general, and a patriot king. He was as NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 129 useful to his country as Turgesius had been destructive. He rebuilt all the edifices, literary and ecclesiastic, which had felt the destroying rage of the enemy; he restored and enforced the laws; erected fortifications; made highways throughout the is- land ; and inspired his subjects with such reverence for the principles of honour and virtue, that, it is said, a young lady of surpassing beauty, richly adorned with jewels, and carrying a wand withagolden ringon the top of it, passed unmolested from the Northern to the Southern extremity of the land. In 49 battles he had signalized his valour against the Danes, and at the advanced age of 88 years he still retained the spirit of a warrior and a king. By the persuasion of his son Morrogh he had retired from the heat of the battle at Clontarf, to his tent, where he was ungenerously slain by one Buadar a Danish fugitive to whom he had offered protection. As the hoary monarch was stretching out his hand for the battle axe of the Dane, in token of submission, he received a blow on the head which proved fatal ; but not before he had laid the as- sassin dead at his feet. Cnutus, Prince of Denmark, his brother Andrew, and Maolmordha, the rebel king of Leinster, with 10,000 Danes fell in the field of Clontarf. Many nobles of distinction also fell on the side of the Irish, particularly Morrogh son of Brian. He was treacherously stabbed by the hand of Cnutus whom he had stooped to relieve, as he lay, apparently expiring, among the dead. The following extraordinary description of the battle of Clontarf, translated from the Irish language, is said to have been written by a spectator, a month after the engagement. "When both the powerful armies engaged, and grappled in close fight, it was dreadful to behold how their swords glittered over their heads, being struck by the rays of the sun, which gave them an appearance of a numerous flock of white sea gulls flying in the air ; the strokes were so mighty, and the fury of the com- batants so terrible, that great quantities of hair torn or cut off from their heads by their sharp weapons, was driven far off by the wind, and their spears and battle axes were so encum- bered with hair, cemented together with clotted blood, that it 130 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. was scarcely possible to clear, or bring- them to their former brightness." Authorities, Keating and M'Curtin. Note XVIII. p. 23. Here too his sacred lore the Druid taught. Numerous monuments of the Druidical superstition, beside those mentioned in Island Magee, are still to be seen in the County of Antrim. There is a Cromlech at Mount Druid, the seat of Doctor Trail, near Ballintoy, a second at Rough-forth about six miles from Belfast, and a third on the hill of Brown Dodd, in the centre of a circle of stones 18 feet in diameter. These monuments correspond, in general, to the description in the poem. Sometimes the a] tar has two converging lines of stones, gradually diminishing in elevation till they reach the circumfer- ence of the stony circle. The length of these lines at Rough- forth is 40 feet, the breadth at the base 12, and at the apex 6. Four stones about 2^ feet high support a trap rock which forms the altar, and 8 other rocks of dimensions gradually lessening to the point, cover the two converging lines of upright stones ; but the passage underneath is almost filled up with rubbish. The circular enclosure of stones has been probably removed to make room for the plough. The longitudinal direction is E. and W. The large circular enclosure of earth known by the name of the Giant's ring, on the Eastern side of the Lagan, four miles from Belfast, has a Cromlech in the center. The en- closure is of such height as to exclude the prospect of every thing but the sky. From its situation and extent we may sup- pose it to have been a grand seminary, or metropolitan see of the Druids. " The primitive religion of the Danes proscribed the use of temples, and taught that it was offensive to the Gods to pre- tend to enclose them within the circuit of walls. We find at this day, here and there in Denmark, Sweden and Norway, in the middle of a plain, or upon some little hill, altars around which they assemble to offer sacrifices, and to assist at other re- ligious ceremonies. Three long pieces of rock set upright serve for a basis to a great flat stone which forms the table of the al- NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 131 tar. There is commonly a pretty large cavity under this altar which might be intended to receive the blood of the victims, and they never fail to find stones for striking fire scattered round it, for no other fire but such as was struck forth with a flint was pure enough for such a purpose. Sometimes these rural altars are constructed in a more magnificent manner, a double range of enormous stones surrounds the altar, and the little hill on which it is erected." Mallet's Northern Antiquities. Note XIX. p. 24. Routid Sleimis see ivhat beams of glory play. Sleimis, i. e. Sliabh Mios or Muas, signifying, according to the fancy of the Etymologist, either the Month Mountain, from the monthly sacrifices offered to the moon, or the Altar Mountain, from its resemblance to an altar, such as the Irish used previous to the introduction of Christianity, is a curious mountain, shaped like a truncated cone, near Broughshane, under which it is said our great national saint resided during his captivity. He was nephew of St. Martin, Bishop of Tours in France, and was brought captive with his two sisters, Lupida and Darcera, from Armorica or Britanny, by Nial of the nine hostages. Being then only* 1-6 years of age, he soon learned the language of the country, and by his excellent talents, and amiable disposition, became so endeared to the king and nobility, that he was permitted to revisit France. Thence he went to Rome, and for 30 years devoted himself to religious study. At length being qualified for the labours of an apostle, he was deputed by pope Celes- tine to convert Ireland to Christianity. He was accompanied by 24 or 30 holy men; and, it is recorded, among the other monkish fables of Jocelyn, that in his way, he received from an Ancho- rite named Justus, a staff of as extraordinory virtue as the wand of Moses, and which, Justus declared, he had received from the very hand of our Lord Jesus Christ. In the year 432 he arrived in Ireland, and, in the short space of three years, tho- roughly converted the whole mass of the people. He founded 355 Monasteries, consecrated an equal number of Eishops, and ordained 3000 priests. He assisted in the council of nine ap- pointed by Laogaire at Tarah, to examine the public records and genealogies. He banished all serpents and other noxious a-? 132 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. nimals out of the island, in which he resided 6 1 years. At length he died at Armagh, and was buried in Downpatrick, where al- so rest the bones of St. Brigid, and Columba, agreeable to the Leonine distich, Hi tres in Duno, tumulo tumulantur in uno, Brigida, Patricius, atque Columba pius. Usher mentions that the Druids had foretold the arrival of St. Patrick. Druides, sive Magi Hibernici, adventum B. Patricii ante triennium prsedixisse perhibentur. Note XX. p. 25. Afoul Adulterer boivs at England's throne. Dermod, chief of the principality of Leinster, had imbi- bed with his mother's milk, a spirit of pride and intole- rance, which none of the restrictions of education could bri- dle or subdue. While the haughtiness of his deportment dis- gusted the nobles, his untractable and ferocious manners repelled that admiration which his superior stature and bo- dily strength would have excited in the vulgar. He aven- ged the hatred or the contempt of his people by his ty- ranny, till at length he committed a crime that involved the whole of his unfortunate country in misery and deso- lation. Dervorghal, wife of O'Rourke, the dynast of Breffney, had inspired Dermod with a licentious passion, from the gratification of which he was deterred by no motive of ho- nor or fear. Dervorghal, whose rank was dishonoured, and whose personal charms were contaminated by levity and inconstancy, listened with pleasure to the proposals of the prince of Leinster. While O'Rourke was absent on a pil- grimage to the shrine of the national saint, Dermod, with a party of horse, surrounded her palace, and according to a preconcerted plan seized on the person' of Dervorghal, struggling with feigned reluctance, and bore her in triumph to his own place of residence. O'Rourke, on his return, was enflamed with the utmost rage at the perfidy of his wife, and the villainny of her seducer. He sought, and obtained the aid of Roderick O'Con- NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 133 nor, monarch of Ireland, and entered the territories of Der- mod with fire and sword. In vain did Dermod call on the people and the nobles to rally round his throne. The swords that should have been drawn in his defence, were sharp- ened against him. Abandoned by all except a few desperate adherents, the encouragers and partakers of his crimes, he determined to seek the aid of Henry II. of England. In the dress of a suppliant and an exile, he appeared before the English monarch, and excited his pity and his ambition. But his continental wars preventing Henry frem giving per- sonal aid, he dismissed his suppliant with letters patent, in which he declared that he had taken Dermod into his pro- tection, and that whosoever of his subjects should assist in restoring him to his possessions, might rest secure of royal patronage and support. Elevated with hopes of success, the exile hastened on his journey back. At Bristol he caused his letters to be pub- lickly read, and had copies of them exhibited on the doors and columns of the most public places, with a copious ap- pendix, in which he was not sparing of promises of reward, to those who should venture their lives and fortunes in his cause. But it would be incompatible with the limits of a note to pursue the history of this ruffian. Suffice it to say that many needy and ambitious adventurers, among whom the names of Fitzstephen, Fitzgerald, De Cogan, Prendergast and Strong- bow, are most conspicuous, espoused his cause, and joined his standard, the ensuing spring, on the coast of Wexford. Having lived only to witness the ruin of his country, he closed his life of cruelty and rapine at the Abbey of Ferns, in the beginning of May, 1172. Note XXI. p. 26. Boyne foams ivith bloody a coivard monarch jlies. The reader does not require to be told who is here meant. What Irishman does not know, and reprobate the memory of that unprincely and pusillanimous king, James II ? Because his raw and undisciplined kerns did not gain the victory at the 134 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. Boyne over the veteran troops of the heroic William, he had the folly and ingratitude to tax them with cowardice, though he was himself the first who fled. Well did Sarsfield say to the British officers, « change but kings, and we will fight it over a-, gain with you." " The Irish have not forgotten the foul slan- der of James, nor do they fail to recriminate. They brand him with a name the most opprobrious in their language, and ex- pressive of the most dastardly cowardice. Some of them have said to me, « We expect little good from any of the race Sheemas-a-caccagh. i. e. S— — n James." Philosophical Survey of the South of Ireland. Note XXII. p. 26. Here good Columba shelved in Christian shies^ The lucid day-star of Salvation rise. Columba, a descendant of the great Nial, king of Ireland, founder of the monastery at Colum-kill, and the apostle of the western isles, born A. D. 521. He was equally distinguished for his learning and piety, his zeal and indefatigable labour in propagating the gospel. He converted the Druidical seminary of rnnishowen into a college for monks, and founded upwards of 100 monasteries (some authors affirm 300) in Scotland and Ireland, among winch were those of Derry, Colerain and Rath- lin. But his favourite residence was Icolum-kill, or Iona, a seminary of learning and religion, which for many ages sup- plied Europe with learned and pious teachers. " From this nest of Columba, says Odonellus, these sacred doves took their flight to all quarters." Columba diedA.D.597, aged 76. Some ' ©f his latin hymns are yet extant. See Smith's life of Columba. Note XXin. p. 27. Where JMargys 'walls unroofed and mouldering stand. The following description of Bona Marga is extracted from the Belfast Magazine for April 1809. " This abbey was founded in 1509, by Charles Mac Donnell, for monks of the Franciscan order, and it may be ranked a- mong the latest of the Monastic edifices raised in Ireland. It is situated about a quarter of a mile from the village of Ballycastle, NOTES TO BOOK FIRST 135 commanding to the West a view of the ocean, with the bold outlines of the rocks that rise, in many a fantastic shape, along the coast ; to the South the undulating line of the mountains of Knock-laid, and to the East the extensive glen of Carey. The Chapel is 100 feet in length, and 84 in breadth. The refectory cells, and other apartments, are too much dilapidated to allow any accurate description of their former size. The eastern gable of the chapel which is still in a tolerable state of preservation, is adorned with several well executed devices in bass relief, which however are now rapidly mouldering to decay. To the East of the great entrance to the Chapel are the remains of a small edifice with narrow pointed gabels, which seems ' to have been the lodge of a porter, or lay brother ; the venerable stillness of this sacred spot, the numerous reliques of mortality that surround it, and the remembrance it produces of days that have been, give it even in its present desolated state, an appear- ance more interesting, more impressive than it possessed, when rising in all its plenitude of monkish pride." Here was the burial place of the Antrim family. Mr. Robert Stewart of Ballycastle obligingly furnished the author with the annexed account of an extraordinary woman who formerly dwelt in the abbey, and was known by the name of the black Nun of Bona Marga, or Sheelah Dubh ni Valone. " She lived in the most austere manner, and in the constant exersiseof devotion. Independent of a just notion of revealed religion, she appears to have possessed a wonderful knowledge of future e- vents, and to have been enlightened by a ray of intellect more than human. Her predictions often bore the appearance of im- probability, and were by many, considered as the wanderings of an enthusiastic mind. Some of them however have been verified. Rigid in her idea of religious duty, she regarded every devia- tion from it as unpardonable. Tradition says, the nun had a sister whom she had occasion to blame for some impropriety of conduct; and though the offender had shown ample con- trition, the recluse would not be satisfied. It happened how- ever that the penitent had occasion, one wintry night, to beg shelter from her sister, who could not, from Christain motives, deny her request, but determined, rather than abide under the >same roof, to pay her accustomed devotions in the open air. 136 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. After remaining some hours at prayer, the devout woman looked towards the cell, and saw a most brilliant light. Struck with amazement, knowing that neither fire nor taper had burn- ed there for many months, she approached the bed on which her sister lay, but only in time to hear her sigh out her last breath in praises to her redeemer. The light had vanished ; the re- cluse considered it as the sign of Heaven's forgiveness to her sister, and learned thenceforward to be more induJgent to hu- man frailty." Note XXIV. p. 28. "Thou too Dunlnce proud throne of feuda ' state. The castle of Dunluce is the most striking ruin on the coast of Antrim, perhaps in Ireland. It is situated on a rock nearly insulated, and perforated by a cavern re-echoing to the noise of the waves. Its dark basaltic walls, marked with the mellow tints of time, in some places form a perpendicular line with the mural rock on which it is built, and in others, seem to project or to stand without a foundation, by reason of the rock's decay. Its commanding situation, and its numerous gables and turrets, resembling tht ruins of a village destroyed by fi re, ex- cite a high idea of its former magnificence, and a feeling of regret for its lost splendour. It is joined to the main land be- neath, by an isthmus of rock, and above by a narrow arch like a wall; to which it appears that there was formerly a- nother wall of similar structure, running parallel, and that when the two walls were connected by boards, a passage was formed of sufficient width for the accommodation of a garrison. A room in the castle is said to be the favourite abode of Mave Roe, probably a Bansheigh, or some other fictitious personage, who sweeps it every night. But the sweeping winds which issue through it, will account for the cleanness of the room, without the aid of supernatural agency. The name of the founder of this castle is lost in the stream of time. De Courcy is said to have pursued his conquests in Ulster, as far as Dunluce, and, as he was the builder of nu- merous castles, it is not improbable that he laid the first foun- dation of tins edifice, and that it was afterwards enlarged and NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 137 improved by the Mac Quillans, and Mac Donnells. Cox says it was taken from the English by Daniel Mac William (Mac Quillan)Anno 15l3,and it was held by him, or his posterity, till it fell into the possession of the Mac Donnells. In 1584 it was besieged, and taken by Sir John Perrot. " In the mean time himself, with the rest of his force, be- sieged the strong Castle of Dunluce. Here was at this time a strong ward commanded by a Scottish Captaine, who being summoned to deliver vp the Castle to the Queene, resolutely denied, protesting to defend it to the last man, whereupon the Deputy, hopingthe terrour of the cannon might dismay theWard (for other hope hee had not to win so strong a place) drew his forces neater, and planted his Artillery (being two Culuermgs, and two Sakers) for battery. This Ordnance was brought by Sea from Dublin to Sfcerreys, Portrushe, and thence being two miles, was drawne by mens hands (through want of other meanes) to this place. The Ward of the Castle played thick with their small shot, upon the Souldiers, that made the approach ; much to the discouragement of the workemen, and impeachment of the worke, being • within Musket shot. The deputy seeing the souldiers shrinke, commanded some of his own servants to supply the places of them that were fearfull, to fill the Gabions ; and make good the ground, him- self encouraging both them, and the rest, by giving not only his presence, but his hand to the worke, by which means the Ordnance was planted, and the blinders set up, the Canoniere beginning to play, which at first did little annoy the Castle, or the Ward therein, but within a little time the Pile began to shake through continuance, and the discharging at once of the Artillery. Then the courages of the Ward (unused to the de- fence of such places) began to quaile, insomuch as the next morning, a parly is demanded, and conditions propounded ; leave to depart with bagge and baggage, is by the Deputy- granted, as well to take time while the feare lasted, to prevent such resolution, as despaire, and a better consideration of the strength of the place might yceld them, as to save the charge of re-edifying the castle, which he intended to keepe for the Queene, being a place of no small importance." Government of Ireland, under Sir John Perrot. T J 38 NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. Note XXV. p. 30. While bleak December hears the motver blithe, In neiv born meadoivs whet the shining scythe. The agricultural world is much indebted to Dr. Richardson, Rector of Clonfeckle, for the celebrity which he has given to Fiorin grass, Agrostis Stolonifera. This grass is found in every climate; it is more capable of resisting the injuries of the weather than any other grass, and has been found eminently useful in reclaiming bogs. In quality and quantity of produce it has no rival. An Irish acre will produce from 8 to 9 tons. " The richness and flavour of the milk from cows fed upon Fiorin hay are very remarkable, the result of the abundance of saccha- rine matter with which this vegetable is loaded. The quan- tity too is much increased by the superior succulence of Fiorin hay, as it can be used in a greener stage than any other hay ; and if left uncut, Fiorin affords excellent green food through the whole winter, 1 cut the last of mine this year on 18th April." Extract of a letter from Dr. Richardson to Fred, de Conynck, Esq. Copenhagen. June 10, 1811. Note XXVI. p. 32, The light of song diffuse JJaiccv oi Xcc[,i7ru govoaro-cc re yr,pv$ optotvXdg. Soph.CEdip.Tyr. 1. 187. END OF NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. Note I. p. 35. Fair land cf Zephyrs, tffc. Atque uno verbo dicam, sive lernes foecunditatem, sive maris et portuum opportunitatem, sive incolas respicias qui bellicosi sunt, ingeniosi, corporum lineamentis conspicui, miri- fica carnis mollitie, et propter musculorum teneritatem, agili- tate incredibili, a multis dotibus ita felix est insula, ut non male dixerit Gyraldus,Naturam hoc Zephyri regnumbenignioriccuv lo respexisse...Cambden. Note II. p. 36. Come climb, tvith me, the cIijf-croivned hill of caves. The Cave-hill stands at the distance of three miles from Bel- fast, and is so called from some caves in the face of its cliffs. It has not yet been decided whether these caves are natural or artificial. Many incline to the latter opinion, though they ex- hibit no traces of the chisel. Tradition says they were former- ly the residence of the renowned Cuchullin ; on Mac Art's fort the remains of a mound and fosse ; and a little beyond it, one of those cairns so frequent on our mountains, are still visible. The Cave hill is nearly 1200 feet high. It rests on a limestone base, overtopped by basaltic precipices, on the face of which, to the North of the caves, may be seen a fine whin dyke com- posed of horizontal prisms, and cutting the mountain vertically 140 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. from top to bottom. There are numerous little conical hills at the base of the precipice which give a pleasing variety to the scene, and remind the observer of the description given by tra- vellers, of volcanic hillocks. The fossils found here are basalt in many varieties, limestone, white and yellow calcareou* spar, beautiful crystals of zeolite, and vermilion-coloured ochre. The beauty and variety of the prospect from the summit will repay the fatigue of the ascent. To the South may be seen the town and shipping of Belfast, the long bridge consisting of 21 arches, and resembling a Roman aqueduct, the valley of the Lagan running up to Lisburn, and Hillsborough; and, in the distance, Sliabh Croob, and the mountains of Mourne lifting their blue conical summits to the clouds The eye, turning thence in an Easterly direction, will pass over the well- cultivated fields of Downshire, the hill of Scrabo, Newton lough, the Isle of Man, and the shores of Galloway and Ayr- shire. To the S. W. stand the black mountain of Devis, and the broad expanse of Lough Neagh, while Sleimis, Collin, and Ag- new's hill form the boundary of the Northern prospect. The Lagan studded with numerous vessels, pours its broad navi- gable tide immediately beneath, washing the shores of a coun- try whose natural beauties art has improved. From Lisburn to Carrickfergus the road presents a continued succession of villas and hamlets, a scene gratifying at once to the eye of taste and the feelings of the Philanthropist. Note III. p. 36. By Old-jleet totver and Liver's hallowed grove ; Or ivhere high Salagh's ridge overlooks the vale Whose numerous beanjlelds scent the fragrant gale. ^Inver, or Inbher, a general term for the mouth of a stream, is the name given to that part of Larne which stands on the South side of the river. It formerly contained a monastery of Cistersian friars. Larne is a neat village about eight miles distant from Car- rickfergus, situated at the bottom of a fruitful glen, and dis- tinguished for the politeness, good sense, and hospitality of its inhabitants. As you approach it, the bay is seen penetrating through a narrow rocky entrance, and expanding into a large NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. 14 t basin, washing the shores of Island Magee, and sweeping round the limestone quarries of Magheramourne, and the village of Glynn. The Peninsula of the Curran, which, like the Sicilian Drepanon, derives its name from its similarity to a reaping hook, projects into the centre of the basin, and with the moul- dering ruins of Olderfleet castle, situated near its extremity, gives an interesting effect to the view. Vessels of 400 or 500 tuns burthen may ride with safety in the bay. It is the only place where vessels, sailing between the estuaries of Foyle and Carrickfergus, can find a shelter from the Northern storms. About 3 miles from Larne, to the right of the road leading to Glenarm, stands the bold promontory of Ballygelly, faced with enormous basaltic pillars. These pillars have a small in- clination to the land, they are covered in some places with grey lichens, and in others they are black as jet, well-defined and articulated. Some of the joints are 7 or 8 feet long, and from 6 to 8 in diameter, generally pentagonal, sunk down, or truncated, and forming a Giant's Causeway, contracted in- deed in the whole, but stupendous in the parts — a small edi- fice of gigantic materials. Under the West side of the Promontory, are the ruins of a castle situated on a rock, which gives a name to the parish of Cairn-castle. This rock which is insulated at high water, was chosen, according to tradition, by a chieftain as a place of se- curity for his daughter, against the attempts of her lover. His precautions however were vain, for the lover approached the prison of his fair mistress, with more prudence than the youth of Abydos, and bore her away in a vessel. The Salagh braes, running North and South, and forming the segment of a large circle, are the western boundary of the parish of Cairn-castle. Note IV. p. 37. Or "where Glenarm extends its pebbly shores. Glenarm is a small village beautifully situated in a glen, forming with its limestone shores, the azure sea, its castle, its groves, and the diversified outline of its hills, a picture equally novel and romantic. The castle, the family seat of the Antrim family, is now occupied by Sir H. Vane. Lord Bisset, who was 142 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. banished from Scotland, for the murder of the Earl of Athol, was settled here by favour of Henry III. Under Edward II. his estates were forfeited for rebellion, and invaded by Mac Donnell of Cantire, who claimed alliance with the Bissets. Here Bisset founded a monastery, the remains of which are yet to be seen. It is said that the most extensive Deer-park, and the best venison in Ireland, are in the valley of Glenarm. The little Deer-park is entitled to the attention of the admirer of nature. Huge masses of limestone fantastically grouped, the shores of the same substance severed into tremendous chasms, and wrought into caverns by the surge, the whole overtopped by a perpendicular range of basalt, resembling the walls of a fortified city, form the prominent features of this in- teresting scene. Note V. p. 37. Or Garrons bastion cliffs the ivaves repel^ Or fair Glenar'iff ivinds her wizard dell. To the West of Glenarm stand the villages of Straitcalye, Glenclye, Carnalloch, and the villa of Knappan embosomed in trees. Still farther along the coast, is the site of Dunmall, a fortress where, tradition says, " all the rent of Ireland was once paid," probably the tribute of the Scotch Dalaradians. The only memorials of it left are a mound, and fosse, and the frag- ment of a wall. Garron i. e. the sharp point from Gear sharp, and rinti, a point, consists of three promontories, projecting in the form of bastions, and opposing their salient angles to the sea ; an admirable contrivance of nature to resist the violence of the waves. On descending from Garron you wind along the shores of Red bay, at the base of Craig Murphy, and Sliabh Barraghad. GlenarifF, or according to the Irish Orthography Glenn aireamh, the v-lley of numbers, or aireachaibh of chiefs, opens full on the view, with its waterfalls dashing from the hills, and presenting a vast debris of rocks, scattered in many a grotesque form. One rock in particular, called Clogh i stookin, of chalky whiteness, has a striking similitude to a female figure of gigantic stature. In the days of Pagan superstition, it might have been regarded NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. 143 as the guardian idol of the shores. An enthusiast might mis- take it for Lot's wife transformed to salt. at simul illuc In fragilem mutata salem, stetit ipsa sepulchrum, Ipsaque imago sibi formam, sine corpore servans, Durat adhuc, etenim nuda statione sub aethram, Nee pluviis dilapsa situ, nee diruta ventis. Tertulliani Opera. A second Erostratus is said to have attempted to blow it up, but was happily prevented On the opposite side of the bay, stands a ruined castle on a rock of pudding stone, ex- cavated into a cavern beneath. This cavern consists of three chambers which were formerly eccupied as school rooms, though the path down to them is exceedingly precipitous, and a false step might be attended with awful consequences. When the traveller finds himself in the vale of GlenarifF, he may conceive that he is in the country of the genuine Oisin. The names of several of the surrounding objects still retain the names of some of the contemporaries of the renowned Eard. The village of Cushendall, cois-an-da-ealladh, i. e. the river-foot of the two swans, is also said to derive its name from one Dal- las, a predatory Scot who fell by the hand of Oisin, and "whose tomb many of the natives recollect to have seen on the coast." The beautiful and majestic hill of Luirg-Eadan exhibits the re- mains of a triple fosse and fortification known by the name of Fort Clauna Mourne. Fin Mac Cumhal and Oisin, with his clan na Boiikine, are said to have had their residence here for some time. See an account of Cushendall, in the Belfast Magazine for August 1809. Note VI. p. 37. Or Torres bleak rocks Titanian limbs oerspread^ Or cloudy Benmore lifts his giant head, Or ivhere Kenban his chalky broiv ttprears. Torr is a sharp promontory, about five miles distant from Cushendun, on the shores of Cushleak. The ruins of Duna- 144 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. varre, an old fort said to be the work of Giants, may be seen near the point of the promontory, and at some distance above it, Sleacht na Barragh, their grave. The rock here has some appearance of stratification, with vertical fissures. It is com- posed of transition lime-stone, containing veins of quartz, and chlorite. " Torr is a hill, or tower (whence the Latin turris) Many places in Greece had it in their composition, such as Torone, Torete, Toreate : also in Hetruria, Turchonium. Turzon in Africa was a tower of the, sun. It was sometimes expressed Tar ; hence Tarcunia, Taracena, Tarracon in Spain ; Tarne (Tarrain) which gave name to a fountain in Lydia. Taron (Tar-on) in Mauritania." The tower situated on Tor point, as well as that of Turz- on in Africa, may have been sacred to the sun ; for that lumi- nary, as might be shown from a variety of proofs, was former- ly the object of general worship in Ireland. Greine the Irish of sun, is supposed by some of our antiquaries to have suggested the Latin epithet of Apollo Grynaeus ; " in Greek Kgavaiog, from Keren a horn, the emblem of power, and a title of sove- reignty "....Bryant, vol. 1, p. 56. West of Tor stands the bold and majestic promontory of Benmore, commonly, but improperly, known by the name of Fairhead, the Robogdium of Ptolemy. Hamilton describes it justly, as characterized hy a wild and savage sublimity. None of the numerous precipices on the coast, indeed, can vie with it in elevation, extent, or grandeur. It is composed of a range of enormous basaltic pillars, according to a measurement made in the summer of 1810, 283 feet high, and resting on a base which makes the whole altitude 631 feet. One of the columns, is a quadrangular prism, measuring 33 feet, by 36 on the sides, and about 200 feet perpendicular. Compared to this, what is Pompey's pillar, or the celebrated column which stood before the temple of Venus Genetrix at Rome, or the pedestal of Peter the Great's statue, at Petersburg. The precipice, towering majestic over an awful waste of broken columns, pre- sents to the spectator the most stupenduous colonnade ever e- rected by nature, and in comparison of which, the proudest NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. 145 monuments of human architecture are but the efforts of pig- my imbecility to the omnipotence of God. He who does not feel impressions of the sublime on Benmore, must be incapa- ble of feeling them in any situation. The enormous pillars of this promontory are separable in- to smaller columns, the line of whose contact is very percep- tible in some of the fallen joints. The above measurement was made by that distinguished philosopher, professor Playfair. The grey man's path is a fissure in the face of the preci- pice, by which a path winds down to the shore. A huge pil- lar has fallen across the top of the fissure, but it is immovea- bly fixed, and may be passed under without any apprehension. Under the western side of Fairhead lie the coal mines. Mr. Hamilton says, that about twelve years prior to the publica- tion of his letters, " the workmen, in pushing forward a new adit towards the coal, unexpectedly found a complete gallery, which had been driven forward many hundred yards ; that it branched into various chambers, and that the remains of the tools and even of the baskets used in the works were discovered." He supposed that this mine had been wrought in times of very remote antiquity, prior to the English and Danish invasions ; but though he has supported this opinion with great ingenuity, it may be concluded from later inves- tigation, that he was under an error ; and that the mines had been wrought by Mr. Macllldowny, about eighty years prior to the discovery — a length of time amply sufficient to form the stalactitical pillars and sparry incrustations which supplied an argument for the hypothesis. Moss and sprigs of myrtle are found at great depth in contact with the coal. Kenbann, i. e. the white or fair head, a name improperly transferred to Benmore, is a picturesque rock of limestone, topped with the ruins of a castle, about two miles westward of Ballycastle. Lime is found here both above and below the basalt — fragments of basalt are also found imbedded in the lime. Between this and Carrick-a-Rede there is a remarkable fissure, in the rock, cailed the Bulye, formed according to the simple philosophy of the natives, by a stroke of Cuchuliin's U 146 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. Note VII. p. 37. Or that dread bridge by hempen fetters bound, From steep to steep at Reda's gulf profound. The basaltic rock of Carrick-a-Rede, derives its name, ac- cording to Hamilton, from Caraig-a-Ramhad, the rock in the road; because it intercepts the passage of the salmon along the coast. But the same derivation would apply equally to Torr and Kenbann. It may, perhaps, be better derived from Caraig-a-Drochthead, the rock of the bridge. This bridge, which is annually taken down, and replaced by the fishermen to effect a communication with the reck, for the purposes of fishing, is formed of ropes fastened to rings mortised in the rock, carried parallel across the chasm, and connected by boards. The chasm is 60 feet wide, and 84 deep. This light and airy contrivance, as it undulates beneath the tread, and swings to the breeze, presents an appearance of danger which cannot be seen without apprehension. Yet women and boys walk along it in perfect security, though bending beneath a burden of salmon or dulish. Dreadful accidents, however, have sometimes happened. A man on the centre of this bridge, and seen from a distance, by a spectator on the wa- ter, has a very aerial and romantic appearance. He might be mistaken for the genius of the rocks. The most remarkable places on the coast, west of Carrick- a-Rede, occur in the following order : Lirrybann... limestone cliffs... stalactitical caves. The village of Ballintoy — a vein of coal similar in appear- ance to burned wood, the surturbraud of Iceland, has been wrought near this, but not found very productive. Mount Druid... Port Campley...Temp!astragh, or the fla- ming church... Dunseveric, i. e. Dun Shambraic, Clover fort... castle ruins, on an isolated rock. Port Bradan, Salmon-harbour. P. na Brock, Badger-harbour. P. na Gerragh, i. e. ccaorach, Sheep-harbour. P. Hestell, i. e. na stall, stallion-harbour. P. Heogh, i. e. n'eich, Horse-harbour. NOTES TO BOOK FIRST. 14? P. na Gavan, i. e. Gamham, Calf-harbour. Benin Dannan, i. e. the mountain of Danan Sorcery P. Fad, Long-harbour. P. Moon, perhaps Mumhan, Munster-harbour. But why ? better Ma/ione, a word of rather indelicate meaning. A rude people seek only for expressive names, without much regard to delicacy. Several waterfalls in the county of Antrim are known to the natives by a strange appella- tion, which may be rendered in Latin by equa mingens. The names of the caves in the cliffs of Lirrybann will not bear even a translation. P. Logineen. Eengore, i. e. Beann Gabhair — Goat Promontory, very magnificent, presenting a broad convexity to the sea, and forming a striking contrast to the semicircular bays. P. na Trughen, Lamentation-harbour. Ben ban na farage, the white cliff of the sea. Pleaskin, probably from Plaisg-cinn, elastic or dry-head 8 on account of its great height. This is the most striking of all the semicircular precipices in this range of coast. In the sixteen different strata of which it is composed, beauty and sublimity are wenderfully blended and harmonized. Over a dark and rugged base, fringed with incessant foam, it lifts its sides adorned with various tints of green, grey lichens, and vermilion rock, with a rapid acclivi- vity, to about half its elevation, and thence becomes perpen- dicular to the summit. On a stratum of red ochre, at the elevation of 200 feet, stands a magnificent gallery of basaltic columns, 44 feet high. A bed of irregularly prismatic basalt 54 feet in thickness succeeds, and forms the basis of a se- cond colonnade of longer, and more massy columns than the former. Another thin stratum of basalt, crowned with a light covering of green, and canopied by the cerulean ether, forms the summit, at the altitude of nearly 400 feet from the sea. This theatre of nature, composed of so many various strata har- moniously arranged, rock upon rock, and gallery on gal- lery, so magnificent, so solitary, facing the wide Atlantic as if formed for the temple of " spirits from the vasty deep.," 1 148 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. impresses the mind with admiration and awe, and shows us how nature surpasses art in the symmetry of her plans," at much as in the magnitude of her materials. P. na Brock, i. e. Eadger-harbour. P. na Tober, i. e. Harbour of the well. P. na Calye; i. e. Old woman's-harbour. P. na Spania, i. e. Spanish harbour, so named from a ves- sel of the "Invincible Armada," lost here — a stupendous precipice, almost equal to Pleaskin. P. jV adadh ruadh, Fox's Port. Chimney tops — two insulated pillars standing before the promontory, and so named from their similarity to chimnies. Reeostin — Roveren Valley, probably a corruption of rinn, len, ialia, the point of the walled promontory, and so called from the remarkable whin dyke which cuts the face of the cliff. It is shaped exactly like a barbed arrow head. West of this clifr, is a large rock in the sea, which has lately received the name of the lion rock, on account of its striking similitude to that animal, when seen from a certain position. Port NofFer, so pronounced, according to Hamilton, for Port na bfathach, the Giant's Port. It seems, however, to be more fairly derived from Port na fhir, i. e. the Port of the man, viz. Fin Mac Cumhal. The Giant's Causeway lies here. P. na Ganye, Sandy Port— the stooken rock and sea-gull isle. P. na Baw, Cow-port. P. Coon, the Port of the ocean, famous for its Cave. Skirra-kruben, Dunkerry Cave, accessible only by water... — Dunaloghlin, said to be the last place occupied by the I>anes in Ireland ; Bush-foot. P. Baliintrea.. .Seaport. ..Dunluce.. .the White Rocks... Port- Rush. Note VIII. p. 38. Where gay Morgana and her fairy train , Sport "with ths senses of the tvondering stvain. An appearance very similar to that extraordinary phe- NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. 149 nomenon, known by the name of the Fata Morgana, in the Straits of Reggio, between the isle of Sicily and the coast of Calabria, has been seen several times, near the Bush-foot strand, and between Rathlin and the continent. In one instance, a gentleman of undoubted veracity, the commander of a corps of Yeomen, being at some distance from the shore, with a party in his pleasure boat, distinctly saw a body of armed men going through their exercise, on the beach, and so complete was the deception, that he supposed it had been a field day which he had forgotten. A wo- ynan also, near Tor point, at a time when an alarm of French invasion prevailed, very early on a summer's morning, saw a numerous fleet of French vessels advancing in full sail up the channel. She withdrew in amazement, to call her friends to witness the spectacle, but on her return, the whole had va- nished. The channel between Rathlin and the main land, and al- so between the Skirry rocks and the Bush-foot, and Pert- rush strand, has probably a strong resemblance to the chan- nel of F.eggio, particularly in the indenting of its shores, the velocity of its tides, and the vortices produced by counter- currents. Indeed all the circumstances mentioned in Minasi's annexed description and theory of the phenomenon, as seen on the coast of Calabria, may on certain occasions be so com- bined, as to produce a similar appearance on the shores of Antrim. t " The water in the Straits of Reggio is constantly agi- tated, and thrown into ridges and whirlings, by the violence of the current, by the particular direction of certain winds, and by the irregular conformation of the coast. At times, it likewise happens, that a very dense vapour is accumula- ted over the waters of the channel. When, the rising sun shines from that point whence its incident rays form an angle of 45° on the sea of Reggio, and the bright surface of the water is not distmbed either by the wind or the cur- rents, the spectator being placed on an eminence of the city, with his back to the sun, and his face to the sea, en a sud- den, there appears on the water, as in a catoptric theatre, various multiplied objects, viz. numberless series of pilasters, 150 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. arches, castles well delineated, regular columns, lofty towers, superb palaces, wiih balconies and windows, extended alley* of trees, delightful plains with herds and flocks, armies of men on foot and horseback, and many other strange figures, in their natural colours and proper action, passing rapidly in succession along the surface of the sea, during the whole of the short period of time, while the above-mentioned causes remain." " But if in addition to the circumstances before described, the atmosphere be highly impregnated with vapours, and dense exhalations not previously dispersed by the action of the wind or waves, or rarefied by the sun, it then happens, that in this vapour, as in a curtain extended along the chan- nel, to the height of about 24 or 25 feet, and nearly down to the sea, the observer will behold the scene of the same ob- jects not only reflected from the surface of the sea, but like- wise in the air, though not so distinct or well defined, as the former objects from the sea." Lastly, if the air be slightly hazy and opaque, and at the same time dewy, and adapted to form the iris, then the a- bove-mentioned objects will appear only at the surface of the sea, as in the first case, but all vividly coloured or fringed with red, green, blue and other prismatic colours." " These appearances induced the author to distinguish the phenomena into three species, viz. the marine, the aerial, and the prismatic morgana." " Minasi supposes the objects seen in the Fata Morgana are the representations of the objects on the coast. He ac- counts for the appearance by the supposed inclination of the surface of the sea, and its subdivisions into different plains, by the contrary eddies. He explains the Aerial Morgana, by refer ring it to the reflective, and refractive powers of effluvia sus- pended in 'the air." D. Rees' new Cyclopaedia. Note IX. p. 41. What clouds of smoke in azure curls aspire? The practice of burning sea-weed for the purpose of making- kelp, or mineral alkali, an article of great use in agriculture, bleaching, soap-boiling, and the manufacture of glass, is fre- quent every where along the £oast. The fuci which formerly NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. J 51 lay neglected, and which are not even mentioned in any lease drawn fifty years ago, produce a most luxuriant annual harvest, so that Homer's epithet ar^vyiToto unfruitful, is no longer applicable to the ocean. The Nereids, as well as the Dryads, can boast of their leafy bowers. Immense forests of marine plants, trees let us call them, may be seen in a clear day, waving their flexile leaves and branches in the current, over their native rocks, and pre- senting almost as great a variety of colours as the forests of the mountain. The leaves of the sea-weed noticed in the straits of Le Maire and named by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, the fucus giganteus, measured four feet in length, and some of the stalks, though not thicker than a man's thumb, one hun- dred and twenty. , The kelp produced from its sea-weed furnishes Rathlin with the means of paying nearly its whole rent j and it is said that the rents of one highland chief, the Clanronald, have risen £ 2000 per annum, by the kelp stones of two islands. In some places of the Ards, on the Downshire coast, the people begin to cultivate it regularly by laying stones in ridges on the sandy beach, to attract the plants, and furnish them with a proper soil. An excavation made in the ground in the form of a grave, but not so deep, and surrounded with stones, forms the kiln in which the weed, which has been previously cut from the rock, and dried in the sun, is gradually burned. During the ope- ration, the vegetable salt melts and accumulates at the bottom. In fine calm weather, when many kilns are at work they send forth such clouds of smoke, as overshadow almost the whole coast. When a fire is kept up during the night, as is some- times the case, it presents the spectator wtih a very novel picture, a lively image of a nocturnal sacrifice, or the infernal cauldron of Macbeth's witches. Note X. p. 41. A race inured to toil severe^ Of manners simple , and of heart sincere. When a stranger arrives at the Giant's Causeway he is imme- diately surrounded by a host of guides offering their services, \5% NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. To repel the oppressive attentions of these courteous Sans cu- lottes, is by no means an easy task, for when brushed off they return like horse flies to the attack. The best mode is for the stranger to attach himself to one, who, for a moderate fee, will show and describe every thing curious. The guides do not exhibit the character of the Irish peasant- ry in the most favourable light. They are envious, Ltigious, and corrupted by idleness, and their dependence on the pre- carious bounty of strangers. In the peasantry of the low glens we behold a very different race, open, obliging, communicative without hope of reward, acquainted with the traditionary his- tory of their country, and retaining the native language and characteristic inquisitiveness of the Irish. The address with which a peasant puts his questions to dis- cover from a stranger his country, profession, circumstances, in short, his whole history, and the perseverance with which he resumes his inquiries, when baffled by an evasive answer, are surprising. Gain his confidence, and it is easily gained by a lit- tle familiar conversation, and he will unbosom his whole soul to you, press you to accept all the little kindnesses he can bestow, and take a pride in inseming you (the Irish peasant is never at a loss for an expression) into the subject of any of your inquiries. The inhabitants of the rest of the coast are chiefly of recent Scotch origin, and have less suppleness, simplicity, and courte- sy, but more solidity, industry, and domestic comforts, united to a high spirit of Presbyterian independence. They are, in ge- neral, ignorant of the history and traditions of the soil they inhabit, but versed in the more important knowledge of ho- ly writ. " On the whole," to adopt the language of Hamil- ton, " the middling and lower ranks of people in this quan. ter of the kingdom, are a valuable part of the community; but one must estimate their worth, as a miner does his ore, rather by its weight than its splendour." Fishing, kelp-burning, and the manufacture of linen, give employment to many hands. Several cotton-factories have been lately erected, and the modern improvements in agri- culture are making rapid progress. The example of Mal- com MacNeil, esq. of Larne, as an extensive and successful agriculturist on the most improved plan, and as one who NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. 153 has been instrumental in introducing the best breed of black cattle in the province, deserves to be imitated and recorded. Note XI. p. 42. High on yon cliff" the fisher takes his stand. At the mouth of almost every river and streamlet, there is a salmon fishery. The mode of fishing is somewhat singu- lar, and has a very picturesque effect. The course of the salmon along the coast in quest of the streams which they annually ascend to deposite their spawn, >s well known to the fishers, one of whom is stationed, at a convenient dis- tance from the shore, in his boat, with his net spread ; ano- ther "stands on the summit of the adjoining rock, with his eve steadily fixed on the water, to mark the salmon's ap- proach. The instant a shoal appears, he flings a shower of stones into the water, to terrify them from their direct course, while the boatman, with all expedition, surrounds them with his net. The salmon affords a good exemplification of the won« derfully prolific nature of fish, though by no means equal to some others of the aquatic tribes. 11000 peas have been found in one. The peas, as has been ascertained by the experiments of a gentleman who kept some of them in a glass of water which he changed regularly every day, swell up, and burst, and present the appearance of small tad- poles, their form is then gradually unfolded into that of perfect fish. In this state they suffer great persecution, not onlv from their enemies in the water, but from thousands of gulls which mark their egress from the river to the ocean. The growth of those which escape is very rapid. They go down in March or April, attended by the parenc fihes, as guides and protectors, and in two months return grawls of six or seven lbs. weight. It has been observed that they re- turn uniformly from the east. Most of the fish taken in their passage up the rivers are females, but in October and November, when casting their spawn, they are always found in pairs; never in deep or still water, but in streams that run over a hard gravelly bottom. During the deposition of the spawn, for which they make an excavation with their snouts, V 154 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. six or eight inches deep, the male is seen moving round the female, to protect the peas from little fishes, and impreg- nate them with his milt. It is a general opinion that the same fishes, or their progeny, return to the place which they left the preceding year. More than one pair are never observed on the same ford. The salmon taken in the Bann, is thick, short, and round, while that of the Bush, by its length and smaliness, is fitted for swimming in shallow streams . The best fisheries are at the cuts in the Bush, and the Bann, above Colerain. A cut consists of two parallel walls, built in the current of the river, connected at the upper end by a line of stakes close enough to prevent the escape of a salmon : two rows of similar stakes, one from the low- er extremity of each wall, project down the stream in an an- gular direction, and approach so close as to leave only one passage at the apex of the angle, wide enough for the admission of a single fish. Thus, a complete trap is for- med ; and when the fish enters, as he constantly opposes his head to the current, there is no egress. Facilis decensus Averni. The gate of hell lies open night and day, Smooth the descent, and easy is the way; ' But to return, and view the cheerful skies, In this the task and mighty labour lies. Brtdex. It is curious, though painful to a spectator of humani- ty, to see the attempts of the poor captive to leap through the upper barrier of stakes, and rise over the white tor- rent which is constantly foaming- through the intervening spaces. (I speak of the cutts at the falls of Colerain.) Baffled at length by his unavailing exertions, he leaves his place for a new comer, and retires to the lower part of the cut, where he remains till he is taken up by the fish- er's net. 500 salmons have been caught in one of these traps in the course of a day. When the salmon, in making the leap, is out of the water, Lis fins, and his whole torm, appear expanded at full length, and his dorsal fin is vertical to the plane of the horizon ; from NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. 155 which circumstances I should suppose that the force cf his spring does not depend altogether, as is commonly supposed, on the muscular strength of his tail. But according to Drayton, when he is about to leap, he takes his tail in his mouth. "When the Salmon seeks a fresher stream to find, Which hither from the sea comes yearly by his kind ; As he towards season grows, and stems the wat'ry tract Where Tivy falling down, makes a high cataract, Forced by the rising rocks that there her course oppose, Altho' within her bounds they meant her to enclose ; Mere, when the labouring fish does at the foot arrive, And finds that by his strength he does but vainly strive ; His tail takes in his mouth, and bending like a bow That to full compass drawn, aloft himself doth throw, Then springing at his height, as doth a little wand, That bended end to end, and startled from man's hand Far of itself doth cast, so does the Salmon vault, And if at first he fail, his second summersault* He instantly assays, and from his nimble ring, Still yerking never leaves until himself he fling Above the opposing stream." The fisheries, it is said, are not so profitable now as former- ly, owing to various causes. They are carried on too long. No fish can ascend the rivers before the twelfth of August. The early breeders are destroyed, and many are taken in the act of spawning, by poachers, who use lights made of the re- sinous fir, found in bogs, not, as many believe, to attract the fish to the glare, but to discover them at the bottom of the water. About 2500 fish are caught annually in the Bush, and ex- ported, with the product of some other fisheries, to Liverpool. All the fisheries from Larne to Colerain are the property of the Antrim family. That of the Bush is rented at =£300. * Summersault, or summerset from soubresault Fr. A high leap in which the heels are thrown over the head. Johnson's Diet. To throw a Summerset, is a phrase common with tum- blers. 156 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. Note XII. p. 43. What different instinct bids the silvery eel, In countless train up Banna s torrents -wheel? Agreeably to a wonderful provision of nature, the eel and salmon are Jed by opposite instincts to migrate, and make room for each other at their particular seasons. In the months of May, June, and even July, the eel fry, just burst into life, may be seen in myriads ascending the Bann. The falls of Colerain are no obstacle to their progress. They win'i their silent march among the fissures of the rock, or the twistings of straw ropes, which the fishermen sometimes let down to assist them. Guided by irresistible instinct they pursue their way near the banks of the ri- ver, to gain the assistance of counter currents, till at length they arrive at Lough Beg, and the more spacious waters of Lough Neagh. Here their growth is extremely rapid. In the short space of a few months they are at their full size, three or four feet in length, supple and strong, and fitted for contending with the tides of ocean, when again, in obedience to the great law of Nature, they forsake the lake, and hasten towards their parent deep. But of the many thousands which commence this perilous journey, a very inconsiderable number escapes the snares of the fish- er. At the wiers of Toome, Port-na, and Mavanagher, they are captured day and night, but chiefly at midnight, in the time of floods and storms, and the dark of the moon. The apparatus for the eel-fishery consists of a s&ey, and a net called a cockle. To form the skey, large stones are put into a wicker frame, and sunk in the river. An islet is thus formed large enough to contain a cabin for the accommodation of the fishers. A row of such islets, at proper distances, is constructed across the current, and two lines of stakes, one from each of the contiguous islets, pro- ject about 30 or 40 feet down the stream, converging, and forming the legs of an acute isosceles triangle. The net, which is about 8 or 10 yards long, .shaped like a tri- angular bag, and composed of meshes gradually diminish- ing towards the bottom, where it draws together like the NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. 15? mouth of a purse, is fastened to the vertex of the skey. The passage of the eels being interrupted by the stakes, they have no apparent egress but by the very place where the nets are hung, and whither they are hurried by the confined, and consequently accelerated impetuosity of the current. Young eels have been observed in a small stream at the collieries of Ballycaste, making their way up the face of a fall, 30 feet high, and actually tearing behind all the obsta- cles of so precipitous a journey. It seems to be a matter of doubt whether the eel fry re- turn full grown eels the same season. Some conceive that such a growth is too rapid to be admitted as fact. But they who maintain the opposite opinion, defend it by ur- ging that the fisheries are always good, or bad, in propor- tion to the number of fry seen ascending. The growth of ma- ny of the feathered tribes is equally rapid. Note XIII. p. 43. In tuhose clear tuaves the prickly holly thrown, Its nature loses, and transmutes to stone. The supposed petrifying quality of Lough Neagh has long been a matter of notoriety. Nennius, a writer of the ninth century, says, that when a piece of wood is fashioned, and thrown into the lake, it becomes stone, in the course of a year. It appears too, from some latin verses quoted in Barton's lectures on Lough Neagh, that it was believed if a stake were fixed in the lake, and left there for seven years, the part unde ground would be converted into iron, that which was covered by the water would become stone, while the part which remained in the open air would undergo no alteration. Mr. Fra. Nevil in a paper published in the Philosophical Transactions, about a century ago, affirms that there is no petrifying quality in the lake. He founds his opinion on his own observations, and the experiments of Mr. Brownlow on some holly stakes which he left in the water for a number of years, without finding the expected change. Mr. Lhwyd says " he could make nothing of the petrifying quality of Lough 158 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. Neagh," and most of his successors, I believe, in the same path of inquiry, must make the same acknowledgment. Some suppose the petrifying quality to reside in the soil ; and pea- rods, it is said, have had their ends petrified j but can any one furnish a specimen with incontestible proof, that it has under- gone the change in any given portion of time ? The greatest number of petrifactions on the globe are sub- stitutions of lime for the organic matter of the plant or animal, but, in this case, the wood appears changed into flint ; and as in the instance of calcareous petrifactions, the waters which produce the effect are loaded with h'me ; so we should expect in this instance to find the waters impregnated with flinty earth. But in several trials which have been made, by dif- ferent persons, no silicious earth has been detected. Two of the rivers which flow into the lake, where the petrifactions are most numerous, viz. Glenavy and Crumlin, have also been ex- amined with the same result. It may fairly be questioned, then, whether the process by which the wood has been petrified be now in action. The change may have happened in some distant age under circum- stances which no longer exist. The warm springs of Iceland are now daily depositing silicious incrustations, but should they lose their heat they would probably cease to be impreg- nated with flint, and future travellers might seek in vain for the cause of the flinty deposition. Some have supposed the petrifactions of Lough Neagh to be Lapides sui generis y but that they have once been wood is scarcely to be doubted. They have all the external characters of wood, the fibre, the annual rings, and even the pith dis- tinctly marked by a difference of colour and texture. Besides the ligneous matter is found in considerable quantity with the stone, and is seldom if ever totally obliterated, as has been proved by chemical analysis. Barton mentions a specimen found in Crumlin river which weighed 700 pounds. He stiles it AAAS ANAIAHZ, and describes it as extremely hard ex- ternally, striking fire with steel, but internally of wood. Pe- trifactions are found many miles from the Lake. Calcareous petrifactions of hazel nuts are dug up from some feet below the surface cf the beach at Carrickfergus. NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. 159 The other stones found on the borders of Lough Neagh which have attracted attention, are Rock crystals and calce- dony. The former are found in small quantity, and seem to have been transported by torrents from mountains on the S.W. of the lake where there are primitive strata. The Calcedony has, probably, been washed from ruins, or strata of basalt, which form the greater part of all the solid strata, on the margin of the lake. Among the stones collected by Barton, he mentions a Mocoa which weighed 1 pound, a Carnelian \ of a pound, and a mass of crystal 2 pounds 2 oz. A crystal has been found at Ballycastle weighing 30 pounds, but none e- qual to the celebrated Dungiven crystal which weighs, it is said, 70 pounds. Note XIV. p. 43 Or o'er the "whirling surge the feather spread, To tempt the Glashanfrom his oozy bed. The Glashan, coal fish, Gadus Carbonarius, is known on the coast of Antrim during she several stages of its growth by the names of Pickoc, Blockan, Glashan, and Greylord. When at full size they weigh from twenty to thirty pounds. There are considerble fisheries for them at Island Magee, Larne, and Glenarm ; and they furnish a cheap, wholesome, and nutritious food. Six or seven stout fishing boats may be seen leaving the shores of Larne, on a summer evening, and directing their course to the maidens, or Hulins, about which rocks are the places most favourable for fishing. At the ebb and flow of tide, two men row against the current, so that the boat continues nearly stationary, the impulse of the oars counteracting the force of the stream. The hook coarsely dressed with a goose feather is thrown on the water, and greedily caught by the fishes, which are often so numerous, that they literally cover the face of the deep, and may be taken by a pole armed with an iron hook. At Drainsbay, near Larne, in 1810, 456 fishes supposed to weigh upwards of five tons, were captured by a single boat, in one night. In a fine evening the fishery presents a most amusing scene. 160 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. Flocks of sea-birds screaming as they fly in airy circles ; the sun-beams dancing on the glassy swell ; — the boatmen singing as they row, while the fishers are drawing in their prey ; — the fishes playing innumerable, and seeming to take a pride in ex- posing their burnished scales, glittering like gems to the sun ; — the distant hills of Ayrshire, Ailsa, Arran, Cantire, and the jutting promontories of the Antrim coast, ranged around in romantic beauty — all form a picture whose beauty and variety no quill can describe, nor pencil pourtray. Note XV. p. 44. Down to the ivreck-strex.vn beach when storms arise The ruffian plunderer ■> led by Rapine hies. The shores of my native country have never, I trust, been contaminated by the perpetration of the crime which is here made the subject of reprobation. On the contrary, its natives are always prompt in displaying their characteristic courage and generosity in assisting the shipwrecked mariner, and in preserving for its rightful owners whatever property can be rescued from the waves. In the disastrous winter of 1810 a vessel from Glasgow was driven on a rock near the Gobbins, and the people on shore showed the most friendly solicitude, and made the most vigorous exertion to save the crew and the cargo. The life of one man, whose name deserves to be re- corded, Robt. Mac Calmont, fell a sacrifice to his active hu- manity. He left a wife and five children to deplore his loss. The laudable and politic liberality of the Belfast Insurance com- pany has rewarded his merit in the persons of his family, and endeavoured to sooth their regret for their sad deprivation of a husband and a father. "Why do not magistrates, and country gentlemen, exert them- selves to prevent an atrocity, which stamps the character of Barbarism on every shore where it is perpetrated, and which reflects a disgrace on every man, in the district, who does not lift an arm to oppose It ? Note XVI. p. 45. The herring's march they folloiv from the pole. In the months of May, June, and July, the herring pays its annual visits to the N.E. shores of Antrim, and Down. NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. JfJl Were the visits of these useful creatures certain and unvary- ing, they would furnish an inexhaustible source of wealth. But it is a well known fact in their history, that they will show a predilection for a shore some seasons, and afterwards desert it for many years together. The failure of the fisheries is attri- buted, by the author of the history of die county of Down, to several causes, as to the making of kelp, which practise, he thinks, robs the young fry of shelter and food -, to the throw- ing of fish garbage into the sea ; the havoc made among them by voracious fish, and trail nets, whose meshes are too narrow to allow the fry to escape. The first and second causes are not satisfactory. Most of our shores are so bold that they are accessible only by water, and the wreck which is burned for kelp is only that which can be cut from the rocks at low tide ; so that whatever shelter sea-weed may afford the finny tribes is, in a great measure, permanent. The garbage thrown into the sea is too trifling to produce the supposed effect, especially when we consider that much of it is devoured by other fish. The other causes may no doubt thin their numbers considerably. The herring is seldom seen between lough Swilly, and the point of Tor, owing, probably, according to the ingenious con- jecture of Mr. Templeton, to the strong influence of counter- tides. The tide of flood from the Northern Ocean, running to the east, is repelled at Rathlin and produces a counter-current to the west : and hence the flood tide appears to flow along part of the shores of Antrim, Deny, and Donegall nine hours, while the ebb lasts only three. The herring, to avoid contend- ing with the eddy stream;, is supposed to keep on its course in the great eastern tide. The fisheries seldom produee more than are necessary for immediate consumption. Note XVII. p. 46. See as they gambol o'er the hoary brine t What porpoise shoals ivith long reflections Thine. The Porpoise, Delphinus Phoccena, and the Grampus, Del- phinus Orca, are frequently seen along the coast in pursuit of the herring and salmon. A shoal of porpoises :s compared to a pack of hounds in full chase. Their gambols will remind the W 162 NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. classical observer, of Ovid's description of the dolphin. Undi- que dant saltus, &c. In wanton leaps they cleave the briny way, And sport, and glitter in the dripping spray, Now downward wheel, and upward now advance, Curve their forked tails, and thrid the liquid dance ; Drink the salt waves, and then from nostrils wide, In rainbow jets propel the hissing tide. The author of the history of the county of Down observes that " more than 40 of these fish came up Carrickfergus bay, and were pursued into shallow water by a ship's crew, who fir- ed at them, till they lodged them in the ooze above White- house, when the tides retiring, they were all taken, and yield- ed great quantities of oil. A suit was commenced by the earl of Donegall for the royalty of these large fish, against the cap- tors, which, at length, after a great expense, was carried in fa- vour of the royalty." The Grampus sometimes ventures so near the shore, that he is killed by the gunner. He is said to follow his prey even to the long bridge, but generally pays the price of his teme- rity with his life. A very large one was shot some years ago beiow Macedon point, and exhibited in Belfast. The whale, perhaps the Balasna mysticetus, has been some- times cast on the shores of Antrim . The huge vertebrae of one may be seen at the castle of Glenarm. In the summer of 1807, a loud noise, like the rushing of waters, probably the spouting of a whale, was heard in the seas about Glenarm and Garron point. It caused so much terror among the fisher- men, that for several nights, they would not venture to sea. A much more formidable enemy, the Shark, once followed a vessel into Carrickfergus bay, and bit a limb from a man who, on account of some misdemeanour, had been suspended in the water over the vessel's side. Note XVIII. p. 50. Hie Cyrencs offspring let me go To ■viciv the ivonders of the ivorld beloiu. Simul alta jubet discedere late Flumina, qua juvenis gressus inferret, &c, Virg. Georg. iv.359. NOTES TO BOOK SECOND. 163 At once she waved her hand on either side, At once the ranks of swelling streams divide. Two rising heaps of liquid crystal stand, And leave a space betwixt of empty sand. Thus safe received, the downward track he treads Which to his mother's watery palace leads. Dryden. Corry Vreckan, mentioned in the succeeding lines of the poem, is a dreadful vortex between the isles of Jura, and Scar- va, scarcely less terrible than the famous whirlpool of Mael- strom, on the coast of Norway, and probably, produced by similar causes, the multiplied eddies of counter currents made by the rapid passage of the flood tide thro' a narrow rocky chan- nel. It derives it name either from one Brechtan, a Danish prince who perished in its waves, or from two Gaelic words, signifying the " spotted cauldron." During the time of a spring tide, and a strong westerly wind, it is described as more terri- bly awful than Charybdis itself. The conflicting billows rise in foam to the clouds, and with a noise so tremendous that it may be heard at the distance of twenty miles. Tho' a skiff may pass it in safety at ebb water, the stoutest vessel in the British navy dares not encounter its rage. Should she attempt it she would be twirled round like a feather on the pool, and instant- ly absorbed. T*j ^' %7ra n$ vqvg (pvyiv uv^^coy, Y,rtg ikvjTcci, AAAa S - ' opx 7rivc(,xc(,s ?i vnaiv x.cx.i o-o)p.ot,Tcc (parav Kvf4a!¥ oihos s%v%o<;, ottB-^^ §* Epz6i£ ) i> ftgoflri, yivof/.iV0V 9 [ua.q Y.u.'iooiq ;c- vvstlog ^cchiTrrig &X$-%<7Y>,$, to, ts %-cceci VfAW arcivTcot; kclto, tjjs SaXxcrayis ov^e half of them in the sea, left the other half of a continu- ed series of craters, to form the cliffs from the Giants' Cause- way to Bengore. But alas ! how will this beautiful and grand idea apply to those basaltic columns which stand at a consider- able distance from the sea, and on the very summit of the most elevated ground in their vicinity, and where there is no appearance of a crater, or any other vestige of a volcano ? To the hypothesis that basaltes were formed by crystalliza- tion, Kirwan has opposed very formidable objections. He ob- serves that crystals are lamellar or vitreous in their texture, have a smooth polished surface, a regular form, determinate angles, and a homogeneous texture throughout. Basaltes have none of these characters. They present an irregular earthy grain, show no vestige of lamellaj in their fracture, exhibit a great variety of forms, being trigonal, quadrangular, pentago- nal, hexagonal, octagonal, &c. without any common angle. Besides, they are articulated, and if Mr. Hamilton's observation be correct, of a looser and softer texture at the top than the bottom. To this it is added, that that excellent crystallogra- phist, Rome De Lisle, has excluded basaltes from the rank of crystals. The other principal objections which have been made to the volcanic theory, are briefly these. Basaltes have no inter- nal marks of fusion ; their fracture is destitute of all such lustre and such internal cavities as fused earthy substances possess. They contain calcareous earth which should have been calci- ned, zeolites which retain their appropriate water, and horn blend crystals which are destructible at a very low heat. Nei- ther calcareous spar, nor zeolite is found in modern lava. With respect to the flints which are white, opake, and shivery, as if they had been acted on by fire ; it is answered, that they are so often found in countries decidedly not volcanic, that this in- dication connot be deemed of great moment. As to the char- jing of the coal, it could not be caused by a superincumbent mass of melted basalt j for the pressure of the melted matter NOTES TO BOOK THIRD. 183 would prevent the escape of the elastic fluids necessary to its charred state. See this subject discussed at length in the second appendix of Kirwan's Elements of Mineralogy. Note IX. p. 84. Or if thy genius, Whiston, right divined. Among the wild fancies of this theorist, is the idea that co- mets are the local hell of the damned, whose " delighted spir- its," by their approximation to the sun, are subjected to an in- tolerable heat, but when, in time, their torments become their element, their careering vehicle, rushing to its aphelion, trans- ports them " to thrilling regions of the thick-ribbed ice ;" and thus they are exposed through all eternity to the horrible vicis- situdes of frost and fire. A doctrine similar to this in the mouth of Claudio pleading with Isabella, is powerful and affecting • but how could a man of science, and a philosopher indulge such reveries ? Note X. p. 84. Neptunian Kirtvan, green leme's pride. The Neptunian theory, which involves the formation of ba- salt, is founded on historical records, particularly the book of holy writ ; on numerous proofs of the universal deluge, writ- ten in indelible characters on the face of the globe, on the im- possibility of certain appearances in many minerals having been caused by fusion, or any cause but solution ; and on the position and structure of the strata which contain evident indi- cations of their having been formed by mechanical and chemi- cal depositions. Great quantities of shells and other marine exuviae are found in all parts of the earth, and at very consi- derable elevations above the surface of the sea. Kirwan, the most able and ingenious of Neptunists, supposes that the whole superficial parts of the earth were originally held in a state of solution by water, heated to 33° or more ; that the metallic, saline, and inflammable substances crystallized by the laws of elective attraction, and according to the predominant 1S4 NOTES TO BOOK THIRD. proportion of their ingredients, formed primitive mountains : that during their crystallitzation, a prodigious heat was evolved ; and oxygen and azote (nitrogen) being disengaged, formed the atmosphere ; the absorption of carbonic acid, which was for- med by the union of oxygen and carbon, produced the crys- tallization and deposition of the calcareous strata. After the first emersion of the land, the creation of fishes took place. <•* Life with the shelly tribes its course began ;" and secon- dary mountains containing organic remains, were made by the deposition of materials less disposed to crystallize than the primitive. On the retreat of the sea, the earth be- came covered with vegetables, and peopled with animals. He accounts for basaltes by the calces of iron reduced by their contact with bitumen being precipitated, with the argillace- ous and silicious principles, on the summits of mountains not yet emerged. " During desiccation, the basaltic masses thus formed, split into columns ; in other places they covered the carbonaceous masses already deposited, and by absorbing much of their bitumen, rendered them less inflammable ; and hence the connexion which the ingenious Werner observed between basalt and coal." The Neptunist supposes he has lately found a conclusive argument to support his theory, in the cavities fil- led with water, which are discovered in the centre of ba- saltic columns, at a distance from the sea. But does not the presence of the water exhibit a proof of the rock's permeability, rather than of its aqueous formation ? Note XI. p. 85. With poles erect the rounded planet spun. This was a favourite idea of Burnet's, and a very impor- tant one in the explanation of his philosophical romance enti- tled a theory of the earth. "The perpetual spring, says he, which belonged to the golden age, and to paradise, is an hap- piness this present earth cannot pretend to, nor is capable of, unless we could transfer the sun from the ecliptic, or, which is - as easy, persuade the earth to change its posture to the sun. If Archimedes had found a place to plant his machines in, for removing of the earth, all that I should have desired of him NOTES TO BOOK THIRD. 185 would have been only to have given it an heave at one end, and set it a little to rights with the sun, that we might have enjoyed the comforts of a perpetual spring, which we have lost by its dislocation ever since the deluge." Keil has ably exposed the error of this idea, and shown that the present inclination of the axis of the earth to the plane of the ecliptic, being analogous to that of the other plan- ets, is in the position, or nearly so, in which it was originally placed, and that it is adapted, in the best possible manner, for an equal distribution of light and heat in all her various re- gions. Were the pole perpendicular to the plane of the eclip- tic, the arctic regions would be chained in eternal frost, and the torrid zone consumed with intolerable heat ; while coun- tries like England and Ireland, never enjoying more warmth than they receive at the time of the equinoxes, could ripen few of their vegetable productions, and would consequently become barren and deserted. Note XII. p. 87. On Erlns moors the "wondering feasants rear Th* enormous antlers of the stranger deer. The stupendous horns so frequently found in marl pits, in every part of Ireland, have long excited the attention of the curious. Those in possession of the Bishop of Dromore mea- sure 14^ feet in circumference, from tip to tip, and the cord 10 feet. The thigh bone, and some of the other bones, which were found in the same marly stratum from which the horns were dug, when compared with those of a horse 17 hands high, are one fourth longer. The frontal bone too is lar- ger in the same proportion, and hence, 4 inches being a palm, the height of the ancient deer may be determined to be seven feet, one inch. An entire skeleton of this creature, has not, as far as I have been able to ascertain, been yet discovered, but the relics which yet remain, give us a magnificent idea of his magnitude, when he roved through his forests; spread his broad antlers to the breeze, and bounded with the velocity ef Z 186 NOTES TO BOOK THIRD. the wind on his native hills. But his race and his memorial have perished. The Moose, or American deer, (Cervus Alces) was long thought to be of the same species as this noble animal. But our naturalist's, Mr. Templeton's friendly communications on this subject, have enabled me to observe that there is a decided and characteristic difference, and that its horns show it to be distinct from all the present known species of the Genus Cervus. The Moose deer measures only five feet six inches. His horns want the trifurcated brow antlers, and the very long gradually ta- pering snags of the Irish horns. ^ The discovery of these horns has afforded much room for speculation. Some have conjectured from the size of the crea- ture to which they belonged, that it was more probably the inhabitant of a continent, than of a small island like Ireland, and hence an argument for the Atlantis of Plato. Others sup- pose they have lain in the ground since the universal deluge ; a supposition not to be admitted, when we reflect on the fra- gile and destructible nature of horn and bone, and the nar- row compass of the country to which they are confined. Dr. Thomas Molyneux, in a paper published in the Philoso- phical Transactions, more judiciously thinks that our ancient deer existed in the land long since the deluge ; that most of them may have perished by a pestilential distemper, similar to that which is known to prove so destructive to the rein deer of Lapland ; and that the survivors may have been extermina- ted by the shafts or the dogs of the hunter. Wolves have for many centuries been unknown in England, and the race of the wolf-dog in Ireland is nearly extinct. That the deer were in- digenous and gregarious, appears from their relics being found in all parts of the country, and sometimes in tolerable num- bers, no fewer than three pairs of horns having been dug up in the space of one acre, in the county of Meath. The rapid decay of vegetable matter, and the accumulation of the detri- tus brought from the hills by rains and floods, will account NOTES TO BOOK THIRD. 187 fpr the depth at which they now lie buried beneath the sur- face. Note XIII. p. 87. A?id blue basalt is stamped ivith Amman s horn* The rocks which compose the shores of Portrush, abound, with impressions of the cornu Ammonis, and hence the Nep- tunists think they derive a conclusive argument in sup- port of their theory. The Huttonian however contends, that ihe rock having those impressions, differs widely from ba- salt in its grain and structure, in its fracture which is conchoi- dal, and in its having nothing of a sparry or crystallized struc- ture. It does not graduate into common basalt by impercepti- ble gradations ; for the line of contact between the two sub- stances may be distinctly traced, as I had an opportunity of observing in company with Dr. Ogilvy, in the Summer of 1809. Professor Playfair, magnum et venerabile nomen> from some specimens of the rock which fell under his inspection in Edinburgh, infers " that the rock containing the shells, is the schistus or stratified stone, which serves as the base of the ba- saltes, and which has acquired a high degree of induration, by the vicinity of the great ignited mass of whinstone." Note XIV. p. 88. Here raised erect majestic o'er the brine, There curved to beauty s ever-varying line. While the volcanist supposes he has found the cause of the columnarity of basalt in crystallization, the Neptunist attri° butes it to the desiccation, and shrinking of the basaltic mass, in a mode analogous to the drying of starch and clay. While the columns, say they, were yet in a soft state, if any concus- sion in the ground took place, they would be thrown from their vertical position, and form a concave, or convex, or twis- ted appearance, according to the surface on which they fell. Those of Doon are convex, while those of Booshala, a rock near 188 NOTES TO BOOK THIRD. the entrance of Fingal's grotto, are concave like the ribs of a vessel. Hence the allusion to the bark of Alcinous : »5 oi paXa, crftsdov viXvSz 7rovro7ro^og yjjyj, Ti/6 ««:«r - j^^T >-_, v J \- ?r^ i 'w : ^ >V «s t.JPr- ^Sr<1 « <-■ \? :r. ^4Cm k sr : «*nf^