TT 985 .B17 Copy 2 b(JD Laundry Manual BY L. RAY BALDERSTON DIRECTOR OF THE DEPARTMENT OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE IN BOARDMAN MANUAL TRAINING HIGH SCHOOL, NEW HAVEN, CONN. AND M. C. LIMERICK INSTRUCTOR OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE IN DREXEL INSTITUTE, PHILADELPHIA, PA. Philadelphia AVIL PRINTING COMPANY Market and Fortieth Sts. 1900 T^VO COPIES RECEIVED, aiftce or tki APR I 3 1 ^^^gliUr of GopyHlIt^ Copyright, 1900, by L. Ray Balderston and M. C. Limkrick. FIRST COPY, ^'^053/i< /^eu^se.^ PREPACE. IN presenting this little book to the public, the aim has been to furnish a book the need of which has long been felt by the authors. The course, as treated in this manual, having been used with success in their respective schools for several years, has now been placed in book form, in the hope that it will be an aid to instructors and at the same time be a help to the housewife. The outline of lessons has been added as a suggestion to in- structors for presenting the course in twelve lessons of two and a half hours each, to classes of eight students. This outline, together with the arrangement of chapters, has been based upon the assort- ment of clothes in the introductory chapter. The illustrations have been designed to show clearly the methods of folding garments. The chapter on stains has been arranged in tabulated form to facilitate reference. With a knowledge of chemistry, students will be able to appreciate the reactions employed in the removal of stains. The authors acknowledge with pleasure their indebtedness to Miss Bva J. Phelps, Instructor of English in Boardman Manual Training High School, for corrections in the manuscript ; and to Miss L. H. Dayton, Instructor of Wood Carving in Boardman Manual Training High School, for the illustrations which have been drawn especially for this book. L. R. B. M. C. L. January, 1900. (3) CHAPTER I.— CHAPTER II. CHAPTER III. CHAPTER IV. CHAPTER V. CHAPTER VI. CHAPTER VII. CHAPTER VIII. CHAPTER IX. CHAPTER X. CONTENTS. PAGE Introductory 7 Equipment for Home Laundry .... 7 Outline of lyaundry Work 8 General Rules 9 -Stains 16 Removal 17 Recipes 21 -Table Linen 24 Bed Linen 27 Body Linen 33 Flannels 40 Shirts 42 Collars and Cuffs 43 Shirt Waists 44 Colored Clothes 48 Stockings 48 -Embroideries 50 Laces 51 Clear Starching 51 Cleansing 53 Outline of Course for Instructors 55 (5) LAUNDRY MANUAL, CHAPTER L Introductory. Equipment for a Home Laundry. Set tubs, three or four. Clothes wringer. Clothes stick. Clothes boiler (tin or copper) . Wash board. Clothes pins. Clothes basket or pail. Water pail. Scrubbing brushes. Spoon for starch. Strainer for starch. Heavy cloth for tubs and boiler. Clothes horse. Duster for lines. Bosom board. Skirt board. Sleeve board. Small pointed irons. Heavy irons. (7) 8 Laundry Manual, Iron holders. Flannel. Iron rest. Polishing iron. Heavy paper. Small pieces of muslin. Ironing table, covered with canton flannel, or coarse blanket and fine cotton cloth. Reagejnts. Salt. Vinegar. Borax. Naphtha. Hydrochloric acid. Alum. Wax. Blueing. Starch. Ammonia. Oxalic acid. French chalk. Javelle water. Bran in cheese cloth bags, 9x9 inches. Outline of I/aundry Work, I. Preparation of the Wash: Sorting, Removing stains, Water used. Soap, Blue. Equipment for a Home Latindry, 9 Other agents: Soda, Borax, Washing powders, Turpentine, Kerosene, Javelle water. II. Method of Washing: Soaking, Washing, Rinsing, BoiHng, Rinsing, Starching, Hanging, Drying, SprinkHng, Stretching, Folding. III. Ironing. IV. Folding. General Rules. Washing is the mechanical cleansing of clothes to remove all impurities and dirt. This is necessary for health and cleanliness. All clothes should be washed at least once in two wrecks; once a week being still more cleanly and sanitary. If clothes are only washed every tw^o weeks, they should be put away with care and should be thoroughly dry. Sorting is the separating of clothes, before w^ashing, into the divisions in w^hich they are to be washed. lo Laundry Manual, Table linen, Bed and body linen, Flannels, Stockings, Prints. There are several equally good methods for sorting. The flannels may be washed first, but no matter when they are washed, they must be washed alone and with great care. Embroideries have not been classified with the regular laundry, as they are seldom washed at the same time; and also because they require such care in quick drying and ironing while damp, that the laundress has not the time to care for them properly. They should be collected and washed when there is time to care for them. Removing stains, — In sorting the linen, care should be used to find all stains, and the garments should be laid aside, so that each stain may have its individual treatment. Table linen may have tea and coffee stains, grease spots, chocolate or fruit stains. Aprons and dresses may have ink or grass stains, and rust or grease spots. Sheets and clothing may have grease or rust spots. Each stain should be carefully examined and removed, if possible, before any washing, as the hot water and soap are likely to set stains. Clothes which are damp, and allowed to lay folded, are likely to mildew. This is a vegetable growth and hard to remove, as it attacks the fibres of the cloth. Equip7nent for a Ho?ne Laundry, II Water should be clear and soft for washing. If it is hard, when the soap is used, there will be a scum on the water. Hard water may be softened by using alkalies, as soda or ammonia; by boiling, and thus depositing the minerals which make it hard, or by a slower method of exposing to the air. Soaps are manufactured by mixing a fat and an alkali (like soda or potash). The value of the soap depends upon the alkalies present, and upon the kind of fat ; many varieties have coloring matters and perfumes in addition. Some are kneaded like bread dough, therefore they contain air, and in that way they are made to float. It is more economical to buy soap in large quantities, so that it may be put in a moderately warm room to dry and harden. Other agents are generally used, either to soften the water, whiten the clothes, or to make the rubbing easier. These are agents whereby the laundress hopes to make laundry work less of a drudgery. Soda is used to soften the water. Alum is used to clear the water. One tablespoon of alum dissolved in water and added to the water will precipitate the mud. If added to a tub of soiled water, it will precipitate the dirt, so that the water can be used again, if water is VERY scarce. (For the sake of thorough cleanliness not advis- able.) Ammonia is used in softening the water and remov- ing dirt from the clothing. Borax is valuable in removing dirt, whitening the clothes, and giving gloss to them. One-half lb. to lo gal. water is a good proportion when it takes 12 Lau7idry Manual. the place of a washing powder. It is a salt, con- sisting of an acid and soda. Found in California in natural state. It is not so violent in action as soda but has a powerful effect in softening the water. It is a good cleansing agent as it does not harm the material or color; hence it is the safest agent to use for delicate fabrics or colored material. Kerosene is used to loosen the dirt, and may be added in the proportion of 3 tablespoons to i lb. of soap. I/ye made from wood ashes is used for softening the water. ParafS.iie Wax may be used instead of kerosene or turpentine. Pear line is a substitute for borax, and, if used carefully, is not harmful to the hands or clothes. It has a very strong alkali present, and so should be used with care, as should all prepared washing powders. Turpentine will whiten the clothes. Blue or Indigo, — Indigo is made from a plant which comes from Calcutta, Egypt and Guatemala. Prussian Blue is a chemical compound containing iron. Ultramarine is insoluble in water and gives a tint by means of a very fine powder which enters the cloth. Any of the blues are used to counteract the yellow from the soap. Garments should be thoroughly shaken out before going into the blue water. If Prussian Blue is used, the clothes must be very thoroughly rinsed before putting into the blue water, as the alkali of the soap decomposes the iron compound and the result is seen in iron rust, and sometimes in a yellowish tint over the clothes. Equipment for a Home Latmdry. 13 Process of Washing A1.1. Ci.othks in General. Washing is a meclianical means of removing dirt. A clothes board is used and the clothes are rubbed so as to remove the dirt. If some of the clothes are very coarse and dirty, they may be cleaned with a .short, small scrubbing brush. This is good for hand towels and overalls. The clothes are washed first on the right side and then are turned and washed on the wrong side. Rinsing, — After the two washings, the clothes should be rinsed in clear water so as to remove any loose dirt before putting them into the boiler. Boiling. — The clothes, after being rinsed, are wrung and soaped all over, and placed in the boiler with clear, cold water. A few pieces of soap may be thrown into the boiler for suds. After coming to a boil the clothes should boil briskly for five minutes; briskly, so as to keep the scum from set- tling on them. If they are not clean they may boil longer. Use a clothes-stick to open the clothes and to take them from the boiler. Rinsing is again necessary after boiling. The water should be cold and clear. Two waters for rinsing will whiten the clothes and will remove all soap. Clothes should always be rinsed well before blue- ing, as the soap and blue combine and cause iron rust. Blueing, — Blue water is made by adding indigo to clear, cold water. If lumps of indigo are used, they should be tied in a cloth and then rubbed in the water until the water is the required color. Test 14 Laundry Manual. by holding in the palm of the hand, or by blueing a small garment. The clothes should be opened well before going into the blueing, so that they will not be streaked with blue. The clothes, if quite yellow, may remain in the blue water a little while. The water should be well stirred every time the clothes are added, as the indigo settles to the bottom. In making the blueing, the water should be well stirred each time before more blue in added. After blueing, the clothes are wrung and are then starched, or not, as is necessary, and then hung. Starching. — Thickness depends upon the articles to be starched. Hanging should be in the open air. The line should be perfectly clean and the pins clean. The line should not be left out to get soiled, and the pins should be scrubbed well when soiled. Always shake the garments well, hang straight, and with the wind. Polding. — When dry, the clothes should be stretched and folded carefully; then they will have fewer creases and will iron more easily. Sprinkling. — They are sprinkled, rolled, and allowed to stand an hour or so, sometimes over night, before ironing. If they stand some time they will be more evenly dampened and will iron more easily. Pound the rolls to distribute the moisture. Irons. — Irons should be of various sizes: small ones with points for small clothing; heavy ones for table and bed linen; polishing irons for cuffs and collars; Mrs. Potts' irons for convenience. Equipme7it for a Home Laundry. 15 Irons which are rusty should be rubbed while warm with yellow beeswax, and then rubbed quickly with a cloth. Irons are improved by washing frequently with soap and water, then rub- bing with sand soap. Rinse with boiling water and wipe dry. Place on the stove and when hot nib with beeswax. Wipe with a cloth before using. CHAPTER II. Stains. Character of Stain. Reagent. Tea, Boiling water, . . Coffee, Chocolate, Borax and cold water, Fruit, Boiling water, Javelle water, Wine, Salt and boiling water, Boiling milk, .... Milk, ......... Cold water, .... Cream, Meat juice, ....... Cold water and soap, Scorch, Sunlight, Grass, , . Fels Naptha Soap and water, . Ammonia and water, . , . . Alcohol, Molasses, Paste of soap and cooking soda, (i6) CHAPTER 11. Stains. Method of Removing. Spread stained part over a bowl, pour boiling water on it from a height so as to strike stain with force. Sprinkling the stain with the borax and soaking in cold water JGlrst, will aid the action of the boiling water. Use same as for coffee stains. Pour Javelle water in boiling water, )^ c.-i pail of water, and immerse stained portion, allowing it to soak a few minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Put thick layer of salt on stain as soon as made, then treat with boiling water as fruit stains. Boiling milk used in the same way. Wash while fresh in cold water. Wash in cold water, then follow with soap. Hang in sun, and slight scorch will be removed. Wash in Fels Naptha Soap and warm water. Ammonia and water applied at once. Wash in alcohol. If color may be affected, use molasses or the paste; spread on and allow to stand for several hours. (17) i8 Laundry Manual. Wagon grease, Lard, Brass, Olive oil, Paint, Benzine, Turpentine, Wax, Absorbent paper and iron, Perspiration, Soap solution and sunshine. Machine oil, Cold water and Ivory Soap, Blood, Cold water, Soap and warm water, Cold raw starch, . . . Mucus, Ammonia, Soap, Medicine, Alcohol, . Ink, Milk, . . . Oxalic acid, Salts of lemon, Javelle water, Stains. 19 Rub oil on stain, then wash with warm water and soap. Rub with benzine or turpentine. Place blotting paper over spot and place a warm iron over it. This will soften the wax and cause it to be ab- sorbed by the paper. Place in sunshine in soap solution. Dij0&cult and requires patience. Javelle water is also good to bleach it. Wash in soap and cold water. Soak in cold water until stain turns brown, then wash in warm water and soap. If thick goods, make a paste of raw starch and apply sev- eral times. Soak in ammonia water, then wash in cold water and soap. Soak in alcohol. If stain is fresh, place stained portion in milk and allow to stand. If milk is discolored use more. Wet with cold water, pour oxalic acid on the stain, let stand a few minutes and then rinse. When stain is removed, wash in ammonia water. If stain is dry and well set, use salts of lemon or Javelle water as for other stains. 20 Laundry Manual, Mildew, Lemon juice and sunshine, . Paste: soft soap, I tablespoon powd. starch, I lemon (juice), salt. Iodine, Ether, Chloroform, Fels Naptha Soap and warm water. Indigo, BoiHng water, Stove polish, Fels Naptha Soap and cold water. Mucus mixed with blood, . Salt and cold water, . . . Vaseline, Turpentine, Stains. 2 1 Put on lemon juice and let stand in direct sunlight. Cover the spot with the paste and allow to stand forty- eight hours. A second application may be neces- sary. lyet stand in ether or chloroform until iodine is dissolved and disappears. Wash while fresh in Fels Naptha and warm water. Wash in boiling water. Sometimes boiling the article will draw out the spots of indigo formed from imper- fect blueing. If washed while fresh it is easily removed. Two tablespoons salt, one quart cold water. Soak for several hours. Double quantity of salt if articles are of thick material or badly stained. Wash a fresh vaseline stain with turpentine. Soaking may aid the removal. Stain cannot be removed after it has been boiled. 22 Laundry Majiual. Recipes. Bran Water. }4 cup wheat bran, i pt. cold water. Mix the cold water with the bran. Boil one-half hour, then strain and add another pint of warm water. If arti- cles are greasy or very dirty, add melted soap to the bran preparation. Wash by squeezing and shaking in water, as rubbing causes the color to run. Bran water will stif- fen articles washed in it. If stiffness is not desired, rinse articles in salt and water. Gum Water. I oz. best gum arable, )^ pt. boiling water. Pour the water over the gum and let stand. Stir occa- sionally until dissolved. Strain through fine muslin, then bottle. This will keep a long time and may be used ac- cording to the stiffness required. jAVEiyLK Water. 4 lbs. carbonate of soda (washing soda), I gal. boiling water, I lb. chloride of lime. Put soda into an agate kettle, add i gal. of boiling water. Boil ten to fifteen minutes. Stir in the chloride of lime, breaking up all the lumps. A stick is best for stirring. When cool, pour into glass bottles. Allow to set- tle and cool, then it is ready for use. This forms a very efficient bleaching liquid for unbleached fabrics, as well as for cotton goods that have become yellow with dirt and Stains. 23 age. They may be rendered snowy white by an applica- tion of this liquid. Use about i cup in i pail of hot water. Immerse for a few minutes in Javelle water. This solution will destroy the fabric if allowed to act too long. Rinse with several waters, and soap will have to be used to destroy odor. Detergent. iy2 oz. white castile soap, i oz. ether, 1 oz. alcohol, 4 oz. ammonia. Cut soap fine and heat in i pt. of soft water until dis- solved. Then add 3 qts. of cold water and the other ingre- dients. For cleaning black goods, use i wine glass of this liquid in i pt. warm water. If this makes the article too stiff, add more water. For removing spots from woolen goods, as men's clothing, apply (only slightly diluted) with a sponge. Alum Water. 2 oz. alum, I gal. water. This is used for rinsing curtains, muslin hangings and children's dresses, rendering them non-inflammable. Cold Starch. 2 tablespoons laundry starch, % teaspoon borax, 2 cups cold water. Dissolve the borax in a little boiling water; add the cold water gradually to the starch; mix well, then add the dissolved borax. Stir before using. CHAPTER III. Table Linen. Stains;— Fruit, Tea and coffee, Chocolate, Grease, Iron rust. Washing, — Table linen does not need so much rubbing because it is rarely very dirty. The clothes wringer should be loosened for all table linen as the material is soft and creases easily. Hanging, — Table linen should be hung out full. All table cloths are better hung out straight. They should be well stretched and hung very straight. Sprinkling, — Table linen should be well sprinkled and then, when ironed dry, the gloss will be more per- fect and the pattern will shine prettily. Fold evenly and wrap in a heavy cloth. Ironing, — Use heavy irons and iron both sides. Iron on the right side last so as to bring out the pattern. In ironing, the clotk or napkin should be ironed partly dry and then, when it is turned on the right side, ironed dry. Fold table cloths by folding selvages together. They may be folded with either four or three lengthwise folds. Napkms should be folded with selvages together. Fold all edges very evenly, except when folding the lengthwise folds in half. Here the upper half should be drawn back about one-half inch, otherwise, in making the last (24) Laundry Manual. 25 Plate No. I. THE FOLDING OF TABLE LINEN. Bed Linen. 27 fold this part will be pushed out about that dis- tance, making the edges uneven. This applies as well to table cloths, sheets and handkerchiefs. Doylies may have the fringe brushed with a strong whisk broom, rather than combing which tears the fringe. Tray cloths should be folded in three folds if it is necessary to fold them. It is better to lay them flat, or roll around a paper roll. Bed Linen. Stains : — Vaseline, Medicine, Iron rust, Blood. Soaking, — Soak half an hour with vSoap in cold or lukewarm water. Washing. — Sheets should be washed on both sides and, in order that every part receive attention, the}^ should be washed systematically from one side to the other. Pillow cases should be turned wrong side out in the washing, and then left in that condition until folded for ironing. In washing bed linen the hems require the most care. They should be well soaped and rubbed. Hanging, — Sheets may be hung out full, as a tablecloth; if a pole is not used, they must be folded in half over the line. Pillow cases are hung by the seam opposite the hems. If opened to the wind, they are liable to be torn, as there is no opening opposite. Polding, — Fold selvages of sheets together and pull hems until even. TMxn pillow cases right side out. 28 Laundry Manual, Ironing. — Care should be exercised in ironing hems. The skeefs may be folded with the ordinary fold, or may be folded the same as tablecloths. (See chart under table linen.) Pillow cases should be ironed very smooth, especially the hems. If there is embroidery on the cases it should be ironedyzr^/, and on the wrong side. Always iron the case itself by beginning in the corner where the side and end seams meet; iron from the side seam across the case. The cases should be folded in thirds, that is, with only two creases. Laundry Manual. 29 ^ S. Plate No, 2. THE FOLDING OF NIGHT DREvSSES. Laimd?y Manual. 31 /;i'jn|'ii;:i'i|(|i|'('i|/fr 7 'itjih'iHii''iil''l'l'l' Plate No. 3. THE FOLDING OF DRAWERS. CHAPTER IV. Body Linen. Drawers, Night dresses, Handkerchiefs, Corset covers, Aprons, Skirts. Stains likely to occur on body linen : Grease, Iron rust, Blood, Vaseline, Medicine. Soaking, — Soak one-half hour with soap in cold or lukewarm water. Washing. — Wash in warm water and soap. Wash drawers and nightdress in the first water on the right side, in the second water wash on the wrong side. If two waters are not used, the clothes are turned and both sides washed in the same water. Soap the bottom hems, seams and bands well and rub thoroughly. In wringing, turn the buttons inside, and be sure to turn them flat so as not to force them off. Boiling, — Soap bands, seams and hems well before boil- ing. Boil briskly for five minutes and then rinse in cold water. Starching, — For trimming, the starch should be thinner than for the body of the garments. For trimmi7ig use: Yz tablespoon starch, Y^ teaspoon lard, Y2 cup cold water, i teaspoon borax, I quart boiling water. ^ (33) 34 Laundry Manual. For body of garments use : I y^ tablespoons (instead y^ tablespoon) starch. The starch should be cooked slowly one-halt hour. Borax stiffens and the fat smooths it. Add a little blue water to the starch. Use starch very hot. Wring as dry as possible and rub in with the fingers. Starch: Cuffs and yoke of nightdress. Hems and tucks of drawers. All of corset cover with thin starch. Ruffle of skirt, or sometimes the lower half. Sanging. — Hang wrong side out and with the wind. Nightdress^ by one side of lower hem. Skirt, by one side of lower hem. Drawers, by the band. Corset cover, by one of fronts, or thrown over the line and pinned by middle seam. Sprinkling, — Sprinkle the dody of the underclothes well, but not too heavily. Rub the lace and trim- ming between the fingers, which have been dipped in water. Both hems and trimming should be well sprinkled; the hems, because they are thick and the trimming, because it is thin and likely to dry quickly. F'olding, — Lay trimming all inside and fold in the hems before folding the garment. Roll smoothly and tightly. Ironing, — Iron embroidery on flannel and on wrong side. Iron all garments quickly, ironing as large a space at one time as is possible. Iron buttons on Laundry Manual. 35 Plate No, 4.. THE FOIvDING OF CORSET COVERS. Laundry Ma7iual. 37 Plate No. 5. THE FOLDING OF CHEMISES. Body Linen. 39 the wrong side. If clothes are too dry, use a cloth for dampening. In ironing nightdress, iron the embroidery and tucks on the sleeve first. Then iron the yoke, the body of the nightdress, and then fold. Rim the iron well into the gathers. In ironing drazvers, iron the trimming, tucks, and then the body and the band. Corset covers should be ironed with smaller iron , and between the seams. In ironing skirt, the ruffle is ironed first, and then may be laid back without wrinkling while the hem of the skirt is ironed. Then iron the body. Do not fold the skirt at once but hang to dry, as the folds are usually damp. Handkey chief s are ironed the same as napkins. Note, — Do not use alkaline substances, as soapine, pear- line, washing soda, for diapers, as they remain in the fabric after drying, and irritate. Ammonia may be used as it is volatile and so will leave the fabric. CHAPTER V. Flannels. Washing. — Four short rules may be observed in wash- ing flannels: Wash one piece at a time. Do not soak, boil or rub. Do not wash in dirty water. Wash in waters of same temperature. Flannels should be washed either first or last so that they may have the attention they require. They should be passed quickly from one water to another, until ready for the line. Wash in lukewarm water to which melted soap has been added — one-fourth pound of soap in one quart of water. This is necessary as soap should not be rubbed on flannel. Wash up and down in the water without rubbing, if possible. It is a mis- taken idea to wear flannels as long as possible, thinking they will shrink when first washed. If this idea is followed, the flannels become so soiled that rubbing is necessary. Any mechanical treat- ment, as rubbing or wringing, causes the fibres of which flannels are made to shorten; hence the gar- ment shrinks. If very soiled, use i tablespoon ammonia to 2 gallons of water. In many cases, better results may be obtained by using a second suds. JRinsing, — Rinse in two or three waters, all of the same temperature as the first wash water. (40) Flanyiels. 41 Hanging,— Bine and squeeze as dry as possible. Shake well, pull in shape and hang to dry in a moder- ately warm place. Flaimels often shrink from being hung too near a fire and dried quickly. Hang wrong side out and when nearly drj-, turn. Bla7ikets may be stretched in curtain stretchers to dry, instead of being hung. Stockings or socks may be dried on wooden forms. This is frequently done for children's socks. Knitted shaivls or squares of ficuuiel should be dried on a sheet placed on the floor. Unless held by stretchers, all flannels should be pulled and stretched into shape while drying. Ironing. — Underwear and stockings are pressed ofl" after drying. Flannel shirts^ shirt waists, skirls and blankets, not dried in stretchers, may be ironed by laying a slightly dampened cheese cloth over the flannel and pressing with a moderately hot iron. In remo\'- ing the cheese cloth, the fibres will be drawn up giving the flannel the flufi'y appearance of new ma- terial. CHAPTER VI. 5hirts, Shirt Waists, Collars and Cuffs. Stains: — Rust, Grease, Ink, Fruit. Washing. — In washing, care should be used as the color may fade. It is well to guard against this by using salt and water, i tablespoon to i quart of water, or vinegar and water. Sometimes one, and sometimes the other is better. If it seems faded before putting it into water, rinse in vinegar and water. Rinsing, — Rinse quickly in clear water; then in vinegar, or salt and water. Boiling, — Do not boil colored clothes. Starching, — The whole shirt waist may be starched with starch made as follows: 3 tablespoons starch, y^, cup cold water, Yt. teaspoon borax, I qt. boiling water. Cook one-half hour. Use one-half at first, and, as it thins and cools, use the rest. For black waists, the starch may be darkened with one-half cup of coffee solution reducing the boiling water that much. Blue waists may have blue water added to the starch before starching. (42) Shirts, Shirt Waists, Collars ajid Cuffs. 43 Do not add blue water to the starch for pink, green or lavender shirt waists. If desired, the starch may be colored with corresponding dye. Drying. — Hang by the neck band so that it will dry well; if of delicate colors, hang out of the sun. Starching, — Shirt bosoms , cuffs, collars and front plaits of shirt waists may now be starched according to the laundry method. Use five tablespoons of starch for this instead of three as used for the body. A cloth should be stretched on the table and tacked to keep it smooth and tight. The starch will be like a jelly and should be rubbed in with the fingers. The rubbing is not complete until the various thicknesses of material are as one. Then the starch must be wiped from both sides by a damp cloth. In finishing the rubbing, see that the goods are free from wrinkles and, if striped, that the stripes are perfectly straight. Sprinkling, — After drying the second time, the shirt or shirt waist may be sprinkled. Dampen the bosom of the shirt, the C7iffs, the fro7it plait and the collar (if attached) by rubbing on both sides with a damp cloth. Sprinkle the rest of the waist or shirt evenly and then roll, folding the heavily starched parts in a damp cloth. Collars and cuffs are dampened the same as those attached to shirt waists and rolled in a damp cloth. Ironing,— Shirts. First iron the bosoms on a bosom- board. This is a small board of about the same width as the shirt bosom, consequently the bosom may be ironed without the body of the shirt 44 Laundry Manual. interfering. A board of the same shape may be fastened permanently to the end of a lamidry table. It should be covered, as any ironing-board, with flannel and muslin, but not made too soft. After the bosom is ironed, remove the board; iron the neck-band and wrist-bands, then the sleeves and the body of the shirt. Shirt waists. — Iron the cuffs and collars (if attached) by first partially drying each side with a plain, heavy iron, and then rubbing with a polish- ing iron until thoroughly dry. If the starching has been carefully done, there will be little or no trouble with wrinkles, as they will have been stroked out. Next iron yoke, then front plait and the rest of the waist. Iron as quickly as possible, so that the waist will not need a second dampen- ing. If made of embroidered material, ironing on the wrong side will press out the figure. Collars arid cuffs. — Whether the collars and cufis are attached or adjustable they are ironed by the above method. Turned -down collars should be ironed flat and when finished, should be rubbed with a damp cloth just on the folding line. This will soften the fold so that the turning may be accomplished without blistering or cracking. Collars and cuffs are rolled in the last stage of their ironing. This is accomplished by passing the iron over the wrong side, at the same time curving the collar or cufl' over after the iron. The iron should be started at the extreme end of the collar or cuff. This should be repeated two or three times from each end. Turned-down collars are rolled after being folded. Laundry Manual. 45 Plate No. 6. THE FOIvDING OF SHIRTS. Skirts, Shirt Waists, Collars and Cuffs. 47 For a dull finish, collars and cuffs and shirt bosoms, after they are ironed, may be carefully rubbed with a slightly moistened cheese cloth. Note, — The method of starching and ironing, given in this chapter, is the same as used in laundries. It requires the extra time for the drying, but will give stiffer cuffs and collars than if done in the ordinary home method. If the home method is preferred, starch the whole waist at first and give the cuffs extra rub- bing. When the waist is dry, starch the cuffs with cold starch; roll them in a damp cloth, and lay inside the sprinkled waist. In this method more care is necessary in ironing the cuffs and collar, as there is not such an opportunity to stroke out the wrinkles. CHAPTER VII. Colored Clothes. Stains, — Stains in colored clothes must be removed with great care, as the reagents themselves are likely to leave a stain. Often the original stain is less noticeable than that produced by the chemical used to remove it. Washing. — Colored clothes must not be soaked. They may be rinsed in water containing salt or vinegar. This may set the color before the washing. Wash as quickly as possible in clear water, with little soap. Very hot water will dull the color. Salt, vinegar or alum may be added to the rins- ing waters (there should be two) to brighten the colors. Starching, — For dark goods, the starch should be col- ored as for shirt waists. The starch will show less if the garment is wrong side out when starched. If desired ver}/ stiff, starch after they are dry, as in the case with the shirt waists. Hanging, — Hang in the shade and dry quickly. Sprinkling, — Do not sprinkle until a short time before ironing, being careful to wrap each piece separately while damp. Stockings. Washing, — Stockings are first washed on the right side and then turned and washed on the wrong side. The feet should have special care. Rinse in clear water, as the rinse water used for other clothes (48) Stockings. 49 contains lint, which will cling to the stockings. New stockings should be rinsed in salt water to set the color. Stockings, as well as colored clothes, are not boiled. Sanding.— Stockings are rinsed, blued and hung wrong side out. They should be pulled into shape when hung and pinned to the line by the top. Ironing, — Stockings are not sprinkled, but are ironed on the right side. Sztk stockings are washed in same manner as silks, pages 53, 54. Woolen stockings same as flannels, page 40. CHAPTER Vm. Embroideries. Washing, — Make a suds of Ivory Soap and warm water. Wash the embroidery up and down in the suds, without rubbing, until clean. Rinse thor- oughly as soap will make them yellow. Do not allow to stand in water. If several pieces are to be washed, wash one at a time and hang out straight, so that the colors will not touch each other. By the time the last piece is washed, the first one may be ironed. They may be ironed at once if preferred, as they should not be sprinkled, rolled, or folded. Do not blue or boil. Ironing, — In ironing, lay several thicknesses of flannel on the table or board; over this place a clean, soft cloth. Iron on the wrong side until dry. If a large piece and much plain linen, turn and iron lightly on the right side, where there is no em- broidery, to give a gloss to the linen. If a circu- lar piece, iron straight across the grain of the goods, instead of around the embroidery and then in the center. This will prevent the center from puffing up. Always have the goods perfectly straight and iron with the grain. If inclined to pucker, have some one hold it and iron straight across, holding the iron until the cloth is dry. Do not fold but lay away flat or roll on a heavy roll of paper. (50) Laces. 5^ Laces. WasAin^.— Baste the lace, first, on strips of cheese cloth, being careful to baste all points down. Then put the lace into warm soapy water and let stand for some time. After standing, wring out and put into fresh, soapy water. Squeeze, shake out, and squeeze again, taking care to work gently as the threads are very tender. Do this until the lace is perfectly clean. Rinse in clear water. If yellow, lace may be bleached by laying in sun or by soak- ing for a few minutes in Javelle water. A final rinsing in borax water (4 teaspoons — i pint) will give a slight stifihess like new lace. Gum arabic may be used in place of borax. Cleat Starching, — Laces may be clear starched and in that way given a little of a new appearance. The thinner the material, the less likely to hold starch. Clear Starch. I teaspoon starch, j^ cup cold water, I quart boiling water. Cook ^ hour, strain, and use hot. Rub the lace into the starch solution and squeeze very dry. Then clap in the hands until almost dry. Clap by putting one end of the lace between the middle and forefinger of one hand, holding the other end in like manner with the other hand. Clapping scatters the starch through the meshes of the lace or fine muslin. Do not let the lace dry before ironing. 52 Laundry Manual. Ironing, — If ironed, lace should be laid on a piece of flannel covered with a soft cloth. Iron on the wrong side, being careful to iron out all the points. A much better way, however, is to fasten the lace to a pillow or stretched sheet, by pinning every point down. No pins should be inserted in any other places besides the points, as the scallop will be out of shape and irregular. Lace handkerchiefs should be washed and partly dried, then put in the hot starch and wrung out, then clapped and ironed. Renaissance lace may be ironed by placing over it a piece of muslin which has been wrung out in cold starch; over this lay a dry cloth. Iron slightly with a hot iron; remove the starched mus- lin and complete the ironing by using the top cloth. Lace curtains are not ironed, but are stretched in curtain stretchers and dried. Here great care should be used in pinning the points. If curtain stretchers cannot be procured, the curtains may be pinned to the carpet which has been covered with a tightly stretched sheet. CHAPTER IX. Cleansing. Before putting garments away for the summer, see that all the soiled spots are removed. This is necessary to prevent moths. Washing Woolen. —In washing black or colored woolen goods, it is better to first rip the garments and then remove the linings. Take out all the threads, shake and brush well. Wash in soap bark or detergent. Do not allow to become dry, but iron while quite damp. Iron on the wrong side until perfectly dry. If only one or two spots, cleanse with detergent or any good cleansing solu- tion. In using cleansing solutions, it is well to test a small piece of the material first, as some- times the colors will change by the ether which is present. Clear water and a little white soap is often all that is needed. TJndyed Silks may be soaked for a few hours in cold water. Squeeze or lightly rub in soaking water. Wash in soap lather. A little dissolved borax may be added to the wash water if the silk is much soiled or greasy. Wash by squeezing more than rubbing, unless the soil is very obsti- nate. If pure white, let the last rinsing be slightly blued, but not for cream white. In last rinsing water, whether blue or clear, put into every pint of water one teaspoon prepared gum arabic, which will give a slight firmness. Wrap the silk in soft cloth (53) 54 Lau7idry Majiual. and press very dry with the hands. L,eave it rolled until ready for ironing. It requires no drying. Ironing, — For ironing, lay the silk on the table right side up and very smooth. Cover with a thin, smooth cloth. Run the iron lightly over it at first, then iron until dry. Colored silks and stockings must be done in the same waj^, but without soak- ing or being laid aside while dampened. They should be finished off quickly. A little vinegar in the last rinsing water will help brighten and set the color. All silks, except the stockings, will have a better appearance if a little gum is added to the last water. For large articles a little boiled starch, much diluted, may be used and will be cheaper. Hangings of any kind, which are full of dust, should be gently but thoroughly shaken before being wet. If dust is not removed, it becomes a kind of mud, which, when wet, is not only difficult to remove, but discolors the fabric permanently. CHAPTER X. Outline of Laundry Course. This outline is given as an aid to instructors. It is used by the authors in instructing their classes in laun- dry work. The classes average eight students. Two and a half hours are required for each of these lessons. Lesson I. General notes to be given. Lesson II. Wash. Table Linen. 1 table cloth for every four students. I dinner napkin for each student. I doylie for each student. Lesson III, Wash. Bed I/inen. I sheet for every four students. I pillow case for each student. Iron. Table cloth, napkins and doylies. Lesson IV. Wash. I night dress for every two students. I pair of drawers for each student. Iron. Sheets and pillow cases. (55) 56 Laundry Manual, J/esson V. Wash. Body Linen. I short, white skirt for every stu- dent, or I long skirt for every two students. I corset cover for each student. Iron. Lesson VI, Wash. Iron. I^esson VIL Wash. Starch. Lesson VIIL Iron. Lesson IX, Wash. Body Linen from Lesson IV. I Shirt waist for two students. I Collar and one pair of cuffs for each student. Skirts and corset covers. Stockings. Shirt waist, collars and cuffs. Shirt waist. Collars and cuffs. Flannels. I piece for each student. Outline of Laundry Course. 57 Wash, Colored clothes. I piece for each student. Iron. Stockings. I^esson X. Iron. Flannels. Iron. Colored clothes. Wesson XL Wash. Handkerchiefs, embroideries. Laces. Clear starching. Iron. Embroideries. Handkerchiefs. I^esson XII, Clean and wash black or woolen goods. Wash. I piece of woolen goods for each student. Wash and clear starch sash curtains. y^ curtain for each student. Iron. Goods and curtain. INDEX. Alum ^i water 23 Ammonia ^^ Aprons 33 Bed linen ....■••. 27 Blankets 40. 4i Bleaching • 22 Blue 12 Blueing ^3 Body linen 33 Boiling 13, 33. 42 Borax ^^ Bran water receipe .... 22 Cleansing 53 Collars 43 Colored goods ...••• 4° Corset covers 34 Cuffs 43 Detergent 53 recipe 23 Diapers 39 Doylies 27 Drawers 33. 34, 39 Embroideries .... 33. 34. 5° Flannels 40, 41 Folding U chemises (PI. 5) • • • 37 corset covers (PI. 4) • 35 drawers (PI. 3) • • • 3^ handkerchiefs .... 27 napkins 24 nightdressess (PI. 2) . 29 pillow cases . . . . 27, 28 sheets 27 shirts (PI. 6) 45 shirt waists 43 skirts 34, 39 table linen (PI. i) . • 25 Gum water recipe .... 22 Hanging ^4 corset covers 34 drawers 34 napkins 24 nightdresses 34 pillow cases 27 sheets 27 shirt waists 43 skirts 34 stockings 49 tablecloths 24 Handkerchiefs 39. 52 Irons H kinds of ^4 care of . . ^5 Ironing. collars 44 corset covers 39 cuffs . 44 drawers 39 embroideries . . . . 34. 5° flannels 4^ handkerchiefe .... 39 laces 52 napkins 24 nightdresses 39 pillow cases 28 sheets 28 shirts 43 shirtwaists 44 silks 54 skirts 39 tablecloths 24 Javelle water 5^ recipe 22 Kerosene '2 Laces 5^ Ldce curtains 52 Laundry rules 9 (59) 6o Index, PAGE Laundry. equipment of 7 outline of 8 Lye 12 Napkins 24 Nightdress 33, 34> 39 Outline for teachers .... 55 of laundry 8 Paraffine 12 Pearline 12 Pillow cases 27, 28 Recipes 22 Alum water 23 Bran water 22 Detergent 23 Gum water ..... 22 Javelle water .... 22 Starch. boiled 33 clear 51 cold 23 Rinsing 13 colored clothes . . .42, 48 flannels 40 silks 53 Sheets . 27, 28 Shirts 42, 43 Shirt waists 42-47 Silks 53, 54 Skirts 33, 34, 39 Soaking 27, 33 Soap II Soda II Sprinkling 14 collars 43 cuffs 43 muslin embroideries . 34 table linen 24 Stains 16-21 Starching 14 aprons ....... 33 PAGE Starching. collars 43 corset covers 34 cuffs 43 drawers 34 laces 51 nightdresses 34 shirts 43 shirt waists ... 42, 43 skirts 34 Stockings 48, 49 Stretching 14 lace curtains 52 Table linen 24 Table cloths ....... 24 Tray cloths 27 Turpentine 12 Washing 13 colored embroideries . 50 corset covers 33 diapers 39 doylies 24 drawers 33 flannels 40 laces 51 napkins 24 nightdresses 33 pillow cases 27 sheets 27 shirts 42 shirt waists 42 silks 53 skirts 33 stockings 48 table cloths 24 tray cloths 24 woolen goods .... 53 Washing powder 12 Pearline 12 Water 11 Woolen goods 53 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 230 760 1 ^'