Conservation Resources Lie-Free® Tvne I 9 Y\r» Information on living conditions in the canal zone. I. Atlantic Side. QUARTERS, There are available at the submarine base, Coco Solo, Government quarters for 2H man-ied ofticers, 52 bachelor officers, and 10 married petty officers. The naval air station, Coco Solo, has accommodations for 3 mar- ried officers and 14 bachelor officers. All quarters are frame structures, built accordine; to one of three standard designs. That of the commanding officer is an ei^ht-room dwelling. Eight are two-story buildings, having three bedrooms and a bath upstairs, with a living room, dining room, kitchen, but- ler's pantry, servants' room, with shower bath, downstairs. Two are two-story 6-room double houses. The only difference between these and the other six-room 2-story houses is a slight difference in the arrangement of the rooms on each floor. There are six one-story quarters, each having two bedrooms, bath, clinino: room, living room, and kitchen, and a servants' room, with shower bath. The three offi- cers' quarters at the naval air station are of this latter type. All quarters are built especially for the tropics and are spacious, well ventilated, and having wide screened-in verandas, extending around three sides of each floor of the two-story houses and across the front of each one-story house. Each house is furnished with two Crex druo-2:ets. dinino:-room table and chairs, wicker ujDholstered chairs, and plain wicker chairs for the veranda. Each bedroom is equipped with white enameled iron bed, two chairs, and a bureau. The kitchen is equipped with a coal stove and two chaii's. Pillows, mattresses, sheets, pillowcases, and bedspreads may be drawn b}' individnal ofricers ou the usual custody receipts. There is, in addition, one apartment containing four 2-ropm suites. Each suite has a living room, bech'oom. bath, and a large' screened- in veranda. All families occupvina' these aiDartments eat at one mess and in one large dining room. The 10 petty officers' quarters contain four rooms and bath and are furnished with necessary chairs, beds, and tables. In addition to the above enumerated quarters, the district radio material officer has a 6-room cottage in the city of New Cristobal at 'the Colon radio station. There are also two 4-room apartments for the chief radio electrician and one married operator stationed there. Both of these houses are furnished like corresponding houses at Coco Solo. The total Navy quarters built are far from being adequate to ac- commodate all officers and leading petty officers assigned to duty 27722—21 1 livi:n'g conditions in the canal zcne. nn with the base and the vessels attached. HoAvever, it has been pos- sible to accommodate five siibmairine officers' families and two chief petty officers' families at Fort Randolph and two chief petty officers' families at the Army air station, France Field, both forts being- distant only about 1^ mile from Coco Solo. The naval air station has been able to obtain quarters for four officers and four chief petty officers at Fort Sherman, across the harbor. Quite naturally, all Army quarters are occupied with the understanding that they must be vacated whenever desired or needed by the Army. Indica- tions are that all Army posts will be more fulh^ up to complement in the future than they have in the recent past, which means that these quarters Avill not be available for use by the Navy. Officers and petty officers sent to the Canal Zone for duty should not bring their families on the word of an employee of the Panama Canal to the effect that " vacated quarters are easily obtainable from employees going to the States for four months." At least 50 or TO families employed by the canal are without quarters and either occupy vacation quarters or rent in the city of Colon. Unless quarters can be obtained in some of the above-mentioned posts or stations, it is practically impossible for a naval officer to house his family, especially if he is entirely dependent upon his salary for a living. Desirable houses in the city of Colon are unobtainable. Very desirable accommodations can be had at the Hotel Washing- ton, in Cristobal, at from $6 to $7.50 a day for two persons, Ameri- can plan. It is readily seen that a naval officer can not spend an extended stay at the hotel unless he has an income in addition to" his salary. Any officer ordered to the Canal Zone should, if possible, leave his family in the States until he has himself investigated the situ- ation above outlined. PROVISIONS. Provisions are obtained both through the base supply officer and the Panama Canal commissaries. The base supply officer's facilities are limited. However, a district commissary store at the naval air station for the use of all naval persons in the district has been authorized. The building is completed and the store will soon be in operation. It is expected then to be able to purchase all meats, fresh provisions, and dry stores from the district commissary. The canal commissaries carry practically everything needed hy the average housewife — dry goods, hardware, shoes, fresh meats and vegetables, and d.Ty stores. Although the variety carried in any one article is not wide, the assortment is ample for the average person, and the prices correspond very closely to those obtaining in the States. There is also in Colon a native public market, where native fresh vegetables can be purchased in season at a very reasonable price. .Fresh milk can be had only under the doctor's order, and then only for infants, invalids, or sick requiring such diet. It retails at 24 cents a quart. Occasionally throughout the year the amount of fresh milk for sale exceeds that required for the above class of orders. \X such times the excess is sold "Over the Wim^^ the car>al commis- L ! BR ARY OF CONGRESS 7- f- 1 OLS. The Canal Zone schools give good instruction. All grades, in- cluding four years in high school, are taught. All teachers are Americans. The zone schools stand a little above the average ob- tained in the States in the 1919-20 public-school census. Although there is none at the present, it is hoped to have a kinder- garten class on the base in the near future for the instruction of those children too young to attend a public school in Cristobal. Arrangements can be made to enter children in Spanish classes in Colon either in the kindergarten or public schools. The standard of these schools is not high and their use is only suggested as a means for teaching children the Spanish language. LOCATION OF THE STATION. The submarine base and the naval air station join each other and the two reservations occupy the whole of Coco Solo Point. The station is 5 miles by rail and 7 by road from the cities of Colon and Cristobal. There are eight trains to and from town each day — ^three in the morning and five in the afternoon and evening. Transportation for all persons in the Navy is free. Officers' wives, families, and serv- ants ride at a special rate of practically 11 cents a trip. Full fare is 15 cents. A market bus makes two trips daily, excepting Sundays, from the base to the Panama Canal commissar}^ at Cristobal. The morning trip is for officers' families and the afternoon trip for chief petty officers' families. Due to the large number of officers and chief petty officers' families attached to the base, one representative only from each family is allowed one trip every other day. There are at the present attached to the submarine base 13 sub- marines, two Eagle boats, one seagoing tug, one subchaser, and an oil barge. Attached to the naval air station is one Eagle boat and one subchaser, besides a total of nine airplanes, one dirigible, and one kite Walloon. A dredged channel with 24 feet of water extends up alongside the sea Avail, thereb}' allowing large vessels to secure at the base when necessary. The base is located at the eastern end of the Colon harbor or Limon Bay breakwater. All tAvo-story offi-cers' quarters face the sea and haA'e close, unobstructed Adew of all ships entering or leaving port. Although the complement of the base includes one company of Marines and. a band, neither are at the present attached to the base. A band is noAv being assembled at NeAvport and is expected at the base by January, 1921. CLIMATE. The climate is excellent. The dry season extends from about the middle of December to the middle of April. During this season there is usually a good northeast breeze, which keeps the tempera- ture down during the day. The temperature range is about 8°, rang- LIVING CONDITIONS IN THE CANAL ZONE. 5 I ing from 84= F. to 92° F., with an?;javerage i.f about 89° F. It rains but once or twice a month during tlfiis season. The other eight months of the y'ear comprise the wet season, dur- ing which time it rains on an average of four days a week, but usually during the night. To some persons this season is more enjoyable than the dry season. There are no prevailing winds, and often a calm prevails for several days. During these calms the sand fly bites unmercifull}', especially the newcomer. However, one soon becomes used to these pests, and their bites are not serious unless infected by scratching. The Panama Canal hospitals in Colon and Ancon are large insti- tutions, built along the most modern lines and equipped with the most modern apparatus known to the medical profession. These hospitals can handle the most delicate of cases. AUTOMOBILES. There is at the present a total of about 20 miles of excellent auto- mobile roads on the Atlantic side of the Isthmus. The main road runs from Colon to Gatun, is made of cement, and is T miles in length. A branch of this runs to the Army air station. Coco Solo, and Fort Eanclolph. This branch is 4 miles in length. Aside from' the streets in Colon and Cristobal these are the only roads where an auto can be used to advantage. Automobiles here are strictlj^ a luxury for naval officers, inasmuch as the train schedules are espe- cially arranged to accommodate all ordinary demands which may require an officer going to and from the base. Gasoline can be ob- tained from the canal commissary in Cristobal for 39 cents a gallon. Automobile accessories can be purchased from the Panama Canal at fairly reasonable ]3rices and for most standard make cars. If at any time an officer desires a taxicab, same can be obtained by tele- phoning any one of several garages in Colon. The fare to and from Coco Solo is $3 and a car can be had within half an hour after tele- phoning. An officer desiring to bring his own car to the zone may do so via Arm}^ transport from Kew York. Cars may be shipped via Panama Eailroacl Steamship Line from New York at reduced rates, which at present range from $16 to $31.50, depending on the size of the car. There are no garage facilities for storage or repair of private cars on the base. MAILS AND TRANSPOKTATION. There are two regular steamship lines running between the Canal Zone and the States. The United Fruit Co. maintains a weekly schedule' between New York, Havana, Kingston, and the zone. Also a weekly schedule between New Orleans, Havana, and the zone. Both of these lines carry United States mail. The Panama Railroad Steamship Co. maintains a weekly schedule between New York and the zone. These vessels also carry United States mail. In addition to these two lines, the Armj^ runs a transport from New York to the zone via San Juan, P. E., once a month and some- times oftener. Transports also carry United States mail. 27722 — 21 2 6 LIVING COIS^DITIONS IX THE CANAL ZONE. The average time to make the/ trip via any of these lines is six clays. ' Passage on the United Fruit steamers costs $135 for first-class passage. This includes Nav}^ rates, which can be obtained only for the members of one's immediate family. The Panama Railroad steamers give a rate of $30 for first-class passage to jSTavy pei'sons and members of their immediate families. It is more or less difficult to obtain passage on these ships as Panama Canal employees get first choice and it is onlj at certain times of the 3^ear that passage can be booked by Navy personnel. The Army transports charge from $1.25 to $1.75 a day, depending upon the individual transport and the excellence of the meals served. Army personnel always receive the preference in the assignment of rooms, and this condition sometimes forces the Navy into more or less undesirable accommodations. This situation is oftentimes bet- tered if the Navy person concerned will make his condition known to the commanding officer or to the Army quartermaster on board. Es- pecially iis this true if it is known there are better rooms on board that are unoccupied. Passage can be obtained through the Navy Department, subject to existing regulations. EverjT^ precaution should be exercised to prevent the loss of one's valuables by thieves on board ship. This has been the source of con- siderable worry in the past. In addition to the three above-mentioned steamship lines running between the Canal Zone and the States, there are a total of 50 other lines touching at Colon or passing through the canal. These lines run to all parts of the world. Most of the steamers carry cargo only, but a sufficient number carry passengers to maintain an ade- quate schedule over all principal trade routes. CABLE. The American Cable Co. has direct lines to the United States as well as to all principal cities in Central and iSouth America and the larger islands of the West Indies. The rate is 32 cents a word (Gov- ernment employees) fro^ Colon to any east or Gulf coast city in the United States. Interior cities have a slightly greater rate. If an officer anticipates much need for cabling to the States it is advisable to register a cable address there before leaving for the zone. ATHLETICS AND AMLTSEMENTS. Practically all forms of outdoor summer athletics are indulged in. There are excellent swimming facilities of the base for everybody, and this sport extends throughout the entire 3^ear. There are four excellent tennis courts on the base and four at the naval air station. All rackets should be strung with tropical gut. However, this can be done after arrival, as there is generally some one on the base who specializes in this kind of work. There is a very good nine-hole golf course at Gatun, which is about 10 miles by road and €> miles by water from Coco Solo. This is the only course available on the Atlantic side of the Isthmus at present. One can reach Gatun by automobile, by boat, or by rail. LIVING CONDITIONS IN THE CANAL ZONE. • 7 Sailing, fishing, and sigiit-seeinai parties are quite numerous. The harbor is extremely large and okWs a fine, well-protected sailing area for small boats. Mackerel are caught at certain seasons, while tarpon fishing in the Chagres Eiver is the best sport that a lover of rod and line could hope to get. A trap-shooting range has recently been established and is used by all. In addition to seven reels of motion-pictures every evening in the amusement hall, there is an enlisted men's dance in the same hall once or twice a month. Officers and wives generally a-ttend these dances. A complete modern ice cream soda fountain has recently been installed in the Y. M. C. A. This has proven a source of much pleasure and enjoyment for all officers and their families as well as for the men. For those who enjoy riding, horses can be borrowed at times from the near-by Army posts. ISfumerous trails through the jungle as well as the public roads aiford a good riding turf. During the rainy season basket ball is the principal form of athletics. A Service League, composed of eight teams from the Army posts, the naval air station, and the submarine base, has pre- sented an excellent exhibition of this game, and enthusiasm runs high. In the dry season baseball is the foremost sport. A Panama Canal League, a Service League, and a Dungaree League affords ample opportunity for all lovers of the sport to either witness or indulge in the greatest of American pastimes. An amusement hall, capacity about 600, is one of the base build- ings. Herein are held moving pictures, dances, smokers, church serAace, etc. A welfare building, constructed by the Y. M. C. A., provides a spacious reading room, library, billarcl and pool parlor, and gym- nasium. This building is managed jointly by the Y. M. C. A and base organization. A third building, containing bowling alleys and five pool tables, is built on the base ; bowling alleys are used b}^ the officers' wives as Avell as by the officers and men. In addition to the Dungaree League, composed of teams from the various boats and departments of the base, there is an officers' team Avhich plaA^s similar teams from all the surrounding posts and sta- tions. Boxing is prohibited by act of Congress. CLUBS. The Strangers' Club, in Colon, Republic of Panama, can be joined by commissioned officers. Dues are $5 monthly. This club holds frequent dances and smokers for the amusement of its members and their guests. Practically all officers belong to this club. The Washington Cotillion Club, monthly dues $3, holds biweekl}^ dances at the Hotel Washington. Membership is open to all officers. Frequent subscription dances are held by other organizations. 8 - livijstg coxditioi^s i>t the canal zone. II. PAC.piG Side. The headquarters of the Army, Navy, and Panama Canal are located at Balboa, on the Pacific side of the Isthmus. The adjacent city of Panama, a fairly modern city, is the capital of the Republic of Panama. The naval activities at the Pacific terminal consist of the fifteenth naval district headquarters and the near-by Balboa radio station. District headquarters are at Balboa. At the present time the only officers attached to headquarters are the commandant and assistant commandant. There are no Navy quarters available for them, and the commandant is living in the city of Panama, Republic of Panama, while the assistant commandant is occupying temporary Armj^ quarters at Fort Amador, Canal Zone. Desirable apartments in the city of Panama are very hard to obtain and the rents are beyond all reason. All Army quarters on this side of the Isthmus are at all times practically filled and at any time even the one set of quarters now occupied by the assistant commandant may have to be vacated. The district communication superintendent has excellent quarters at the Balboa radio station and there is also a set of quarters for the officer in charge. Darien radio station has also quarters for the officer in charge. Darien is situated practically halfway between the two terminals of the Isthmus. There are three daily trains from Colon to Panama and three from Panama to Colon which stop at this station. The time required for the trip betwen these two cities is about an hour and a half. There are three outlying radio sta- tions in the Republic of Panama, but no officers have ever been as- signed to these stations; since being placed in commission they have been under the supervision of chief petty officers. Supplies to these outlying stations are transported by district craft. Excellent accommodations may be had at the Hotel Tivoli, at Ancon, Canal Zone, at from $6 to $7.50 a day for two persons, meals not included. At the Panama Canal restaurants meals average about $2 a day. Living conditions on the Pacific side of the Canal Zone are prac- tically identical with those described for the Atlantic side, with the following minor exceptions : PROVISIONS. There is no Navy commissary at this side oi" the zone. All neces- sary provisions ma^'^ be obtained from the Panama Canal commis- saries, and the privilege of buying from the Army coijamissary at Balboa is also granted to naval personnel. In the city of Panama there is a native market, where meats, fowl, fruit, and fresh vege- tables may be bought at very reasonable prices. Ai:T03iOBILES. On the Canal Zone at the Pncific end there are nbout 50 miles of excellent automobile roads. Tlie lonoest stretch is from Balboa to Gamboa, a distance of about 20 miles alono- the canal. In the city of Panama and its outskirts there are about 50 miles of automobile \ LIVING COITDITIONS ik THE CANAL ZONE. 9 roads, the longest stretch embracinf^ Old Panama and outlying vil- lages, a distance of about 20 miles. "^^ Good automobiles can be hired at any time from the parages in Panama City at a rate of $2.50 per hour or at the same rate from individual drivers. AMUSEMENTS. The amusements and sports on both sides of the Isthmus are simi- lar. In the Republic of Panama, about 5 miles from Panama City, there is a golf course. There is a large swimming pool at Balboa, and also four excellent concrete tennis courts, which come under the supervision of the Panama Canal Bureau of Clubs and Playgrounds, and a tennis court at the Balboa radio station. There are several good beaches, one of which is easily accessible. Fishing and boating parties are arranged very frequently, and the fishing is unexcelled. At the various amusement places there are both indoor and outdoor motion pictures every evening and frequent diversions, such as musicals, etc. CLUBS. The Union Club in Panama City, Eepublic of Panama, which is frequented a great deal by both Army and Navy officers, may be joined by officers without initiation fee, with dues at $5 per month. Frequent dances and receptions are given for the entertainment of its members. • The Centurj^ Club, also in Panama City, may be ioined by officers for the initiation fee of $12.50 and dues at $3 per month. Membership in the Tivoli Club is open to all officers, the entrance fee being $5 and the monthly dues $3, except for officers living on the Atlantic side, for whom the dues are $1 per year, plus $2 for each dance. Dances are held bimonthly at the Hotel Tivoli. December, 1920. WASHINGTON : GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE : 1921 I IBRftRV OF CONGRES ■nil 015 817 ovo V