CHAMBER OF COMMERCE A GUIDE FOR VISITORS FUEIJSHED BY THE SAN FRANCISCO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE FRICE CENTS 1 Class __E1M. Book___i_ CopightN". COPYRIGHT DEPOSm JUNIPERO SERKA, FATHER OF THE CALIFORNIA MISSIONS. THE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE HANDBOOK FOiH SAN FRANCISCO Historical and Descriptive A GUIDE FOR VISITORS Published by the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce under diredlion of the Publicity Committee Written and Compiled by FRANK MORTON TODD SAN FRANCISCO 1914 I- 1 Copyright 1914 by the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce M 14 1914 / CI.A3G157J CONTENTS Page MAP OF SAN FRANCISCO Inside of Back Cover Showing parks, car lines and different points of interest. INTRODUCTORY 5 SAN FRANCISCO— HISTORICAL SKETCH 6 Spanish and English Navigators; Mission, Presidio, Pueblo; Gold; the Vigilance Committee; Comstock Days; Railroad Building; Fire and Reconstruction; Present Population. SAN FRANCISCO— IN GENERAL 18 Setting of San Francisco, and the Bay. Climate. CUSTOMS REGULATIONS ; MONEY 22 BRING NO FRUIT INTO CALIFORNIA 29 GETTING UP TOWN 30 How^ to Reach the Hotel Section from Ferry, Dock or Railway Depot. Taxicab, Hack and Automobile Fares to Hotels. GETTING YOUR BAGGAGE UP TOWN 31 How to Avoid Delay and Risk of Loss. HOTELS 32 Quality of San Francisco Hostelries. List of Fifty of the best in all classes, with Locations, rates and directions for reaching them. TOURIST AGENCIES, VALIDATING OFFICES. GEN- ERAL LOCATION OF TICKET OFFICES 46 BATHS AND NATATORIA 47 Swimming baths and Hammams. RESTAURANTS, CAFES, GRILLS 50 The Famous French Restaurants of San Francisco. Mexican and Italian Restaurants, German Grills. The After-Theater Cafes. WALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO I. An Hour's Walk in the Downtown District, from Lotta's Fountain. The Diamond Palace, Stock Exchange, Impor- tant Buildmgs, Interestmg Shops, Union Square, down Market Street to Lotta's Fountain again. Heights of Tall Buildings in San Francisco 59 II. Chinatown — the People; their Manners, Customs, Habits, Character, Religious Worship. Chinese Homes, a Funeral, a Wedding. Bazaars, Restaurants, Chinese Telephone Exchange, Joss Houses. Chinese Printing Shop 67 III. The Waterfront and Telegraph Hill. Shipping from All the Oceans ; Whalers ; Literature these scenes have inspired ; Ferry Building: the Old Grain Sheds; Marine Reporting Station of the Chamber of Commerce; Fishermen's Wharf. The Panorama of the whole scene from the top of Tele- graph Hill. Back to the center of the city through the Latin Quarter 83 I Page IV. Produce Commission District, Nob Hill and Russian Hill. United Slates Custom House, Appraiser's Building, Old Mansions of Nob Hill, Fairmont Hotel, Russian Hill and its fine Views 88 HOW TO SEE SAN FRANCISCO BY TROLLEY and Cable 91 1 . Nob Hill, Golden Gale, Land's End, Sutro Heights, Sutro Baths, Cliff House and Seal Rocks 93 2. Market Street, Affiliated Colleges, and the Heights Over- looking the Sunset District, the Golden Gate and the Pacific Ocean 98 3. Nob Hill, Chinatown, Fishermen's Wharf, Crab and Fish Market, North Beach, Latin Quarter, Stevenson Monument Portsmouth Square, Hall of Justice 101 4. Presidio, and Exposition Site, by way of O'Farrell Street and the Retail and Apartment House Districts, returning by Fillmore Street Cable, Nob Hill and Powell Street 105 5. Union Iron Works, Potrero, Islais Creek, Bay View, Visitacion Valley, Returning through the Mission 108 6. San Mateo and return. Drives out of San Mateo to Crystal Springs Lake, Stanford University, Pescadero and other points 110 7. Ocean Beach and the Great Highway via Mission street, passing the Mint, Post Office, National Guard Armory, Mission District, Sutro Forest, and Lake Merced; Return- ing through Parkside and the Sunset District, and Mounting the S!opes«of Twin Peaks 112 8. Buena Vista Park, with its view over the City, Bay and Ocean 114 9. By Sight-seeing Car of the United Railroads 115 CHURCHES AND DIVINE SERVICE 116 How to Reach Churches of all leading Denominations, with Times of Holding Services. THEATERS 127 San Francisco as a Theater city. Some Artists whose Stage Careers began here. Names and Locations of the Leading Theaters, Character of Entertainment offered, and prices. Public Auditoriums. SIGHT-SEEING AUTOMOBILE CARS 131 MONUMENTS AND LANDMARKS— THE BANK EX- CHANGE 131 Donahue Monument, Lotta's Fountain, all the Monuments in the Parks and Squares; Portsmouth Square, the Montgomery Block, the Bank Exchange with its traditions of Bret Harte and Mark Twain; Where Stevenson studied San Francisco LONE MOUNTAIN AND THE OLD CEMETERIES..... 139 The "Hill of Awe." Cyclorama of the City. The Necropolis, with Tombs of famous San Franciscans and builders of empire in the West. II Page MISSION DOLORES 144 Altars, "Bells of the Past," Former Wealth of the Mission, the Cemetery and the Graves of Governor Arguello, "Yankee Sullivan" and James P. Casey. GOLDEN GATE PARK 149 Main features noted. Westward to the "Gjoa" and the Ocean Beach. MEMORIAL MUSEUM, GOLDEN GATE PARK 156 Character of the Exhibits; California Painters, and old Masters in the Galleries. INSTITUTE OF ART 160 School of Design. Paintings in the Collection. MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY— "MAN AND HIS WORKS" 161 Primitive Man. Distribution of the California Indian Tribes. Free Lectures. Grecian, Egyptian and Peruvian Remains. A Contemporary "Uncontaminated Savage." CALIFORNIA DEVELOPMENT BOARD 164 Exhibit Hall and Free Lecture Room. Finest California Fruits on Display. Large Relief Map of the State. Literature Mailed on Request. STATE MINING BUREAU 166 Large and Beautiful Mineral Collection. Models of Mills and Mines. UNITED STATES MINT 167 How Money is Coined in the Leading Mining State. Private Coining. POST OFFICE BUILDING— UNITED STATES COURT HOUSE 171 Most Ornate Post Office building in the Country. Postal Statistics. HALL OF JUSTICE 172 Criminal Courts, Police Headquarters, Model City Prison. CIVIC CENTER 175 Future Home of City and County Offices; City Hall, Opera House, Auditorium, Library and State Building. PANAMA-PACIFIC EXPOSITION 1 77 MARKETS 180 Products of the Locality. Food Distribution. Colombo Market. FLOWER VENDING ON THE SIDEWALKS 182 LINCOLN PARK AND FORT MILEY 184 The old City Cemetery. Chinese Mortuary Chapels. A Superb View of the Golden Gate and Western Part of the City. FORT MASON AND THE TRANSPORT DOCKS 188 Beauties of Black Point. Largest General Quartermaster's Supply Depot in the Country. Sailing Days of the Troopships. ALCATRAZ ISLAND 189 "The Rock." The Prison and the Lighthouse. Ill Page SAN FRANCISCO IN BOOKS 190 Famous Writers that have Developed here, and Translated the Spirit of the Locality into Literature. History. LIBRARIES 192 Public, Mechanics-Mercantile, French, Polish, Mining, Tabard Inn, Booklovers', Paul Elder's. BOOK STORES, NEW AND OLD 198 Where French, German, Spanish and Italian Books can be had. Elder's, Robertson's. THE PRESS 199 Some Distinguished Journalists whose careers began here. BANKS AND FINANCE 203 Financial Strength of the City. Beauty of some of the Bank Buildings. SOME FRATERNAL AND ASSOCIATION BUILDINGS.. 208 Masonic Temple building, and others. EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES 210 Heavy State disbursements for Education. The Public School System. UNIVERSITIES AND COLLEGES 212 Professional Schools in San Francisco. Great Universities close at hand. HOSPITALS AND SANATORIA 218 Modern Institutions of the Rebuilt City. TELEGRAPH AND CABLE OFFICES 221 SAN FRANCISCO'S PRINCIPAL STEAMSHIP CONNEC- TIONS 222 CLUBS AND SOCIETIES 223 Leading Social Organizations: Bohemian Club and the Grove Play; Commonwealth Club and Political Research; Camera Club and Photographic Facilities ; Sierra Club and Mountaineer- ing Information. COMMERCIAL ORGANIZATIONS 231 Chamber of Commerce and the Grain Pit. SPORTS 233 Salmon Fishing at the Golden Gate. Steelhead Fishing near San Francisco. Fly Casting, Hunting, Trap Shooting, Base- ball, Football, Cricket, Track and Field Athletics, Yachting, Rowing, Harness Racing, Horseback Riding, Winter Polo, Year 'Round Golf and Tennis, Mountaineering from San Francisco. ROUND ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO 253 EXCURSIONS ON THE BAY 254 FERRY LINES, BAY AND RIVER STEAMBOATS 254 CITIES OF THE EAST SHORE 257 IV Page KEY TROLLEY TRIP 262 PIEDMONT PARK AND THE HAVENS ART COLLEC- TION 263 BERKELEY, THE UNIVERSITY, THE HEARST GREEK THEATER 265 Scenic Ride, the Christian Science Church. RICHMOND, A NEW INDUSTRIAL GROWTH 269 SAN LEANDRO AND LAKE CHABOT 268 SAUSALITO, FORT BAKER AND FORT BARRY 270 MT. TAMALPAIS AND MUIR WOODS 275 MARIN AND SONOMA COUNTIES 280 The Triangle Trip. Santa Rosa and the Home Farm of Luther Burbank. Russian River. Inverness and Tomales Bay. MARE ISLAND NAVY YARD 285 UP THE NAPA VALLEY 286 Typical CaHfornia Wine Country. The Petrified Forest. NETHERLANDS ROUTE UP THE SACRAMENTO RIVER 288 Bay and River Scenery. Longest Wire Span in the World. RIVER, RAIL AND RIVER, TO SACRAMENTO AND STOCKTON 292 SAN JOSE AND THE SANTA CLARA VALLEY 294 MT. HAMILTON AND THE LICK OBSERVATORY 296 DOWN THE OCEAN SHORE 298 SANTA CRUZ AND ITS BIG TREES 299 DEL MONTE, MONTEREY, PACIFIC GROVE 300 SAN JUAN BAUTISTA, MOST INTERESTING OF THE MISSIONS 303 YOSEMITE 306 BIG TREES OF CALIFORNIA 309 LAKE TAHOE, AND DESOLATION VALLEY 311 The Wondrous Mountain Lake. The Garden of Granite. AUTOMOBILING IN AND FROM SAN FRANCISCO 315 TAXICAB AND AUTOMOBILE RATES 336 STREET CAR ROUTES 337 "t^^ Waters, photo. LLOYD LAKE AND THE "PORTALS OF THE PAST," GOLDEN GATE PARK. (Z -SS^ IM Historical Sketch IN THE BEGINNING. Born a drowsy Spanish hamlet, fed on the intoxicants of a gold rush, developed by an adventurous commerce and a baronial agriculture, isolated throughout its turbulent history from the home lands of its diverse peoples and compelled to the outworking of its own ethical and social standards, San Francisco has evolved an individuality and a versatility beyond any other American city. It mellowed the Puritan and disciplined the Cavalier. It appropriated the song and art of the Latin. Every good thing that Anglo-Saxon, Celt, Gaul, Iberian, Teuton or Mongolian had to offer it seized upon and made part of its life. San Francisco is today peculiarly the cosmopolitan city. Because its social elements are still so near their equal sources, and opportunity still beckons every man of talent, it is also the democratic city. And in spiritual freedom and forward impulse and the vivid hope of great achievement it is the one renaissance city of the present day. Here is no thraldom to the past, but a trying of all things on their merits, and a searching of every proposal or estab- lished institution by the one test: Will it make life happier? It is to help the visitor understand, appreciate and enjoy this debonair metropolis with its surpassingly beautiful en- virons that this handbook is issued. We know that you will find here what you never found and never can find elsewhere. We shall try to augment your pleasure in it by indicating something of its origin in the city's romantic past. We shall give you your bearings, in time and place. We shall en- deavor to show you the way, and smooth it for you too. We shall tell you what to seek and how to find it, and possibly what it may mean when you have found it. In short, we shall try to make you see why San Francisco is "the city loved around the world," and by its own people best of all. Handbool^ for San Francisco SAN FRANCISCO— HISTORICAL SKETCH. So vital to operations in the Pacific is the port of San Fran- cisco that it became an objective of international strategy nearly a century and a half ago. The need was recognized long before the bay was known, for the harbor was then uncharted, and its name belonged to that outer indentation of the coast now called the Gulf of the Farallones, stretching from Point San Pedro on the south to Point Reyes on the north, and mcluding the cove where Drake careened his vessel, to the northward of the Golden Gate. In the North Pacific the dawn of civilization was slow. The dim light of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries shows us the shadowy sails of the yearly treasure galleon bound from Acapulco to Manila and sailing down the California coast on its return, a few English privateers lying in wait for it, and little else on that whole waste of water. The galleon needed a port of call, and in 1 769 Jose de Galvaez, Spain's "visitador" in Mexico, knowing the Rus- sians were coming down from the north and hearing rumors of English and French approaching from the east, determined on an active campaign for colonizing the coast of California, and especially that Bahia de Puerto de San Francisco which Vizcaino had mapped by that name in 1 603. San Francisco still occupies its vital position in relation to trade routes. If we substitute Panama for Acapulco, and full-powered steam vessels, capable of bucking headwinds, for the unwieldy sailing craft of old, we can appreciate to what degree this city is the key to the commerce of the Pacific ; for it lies so close to the Great Circle route from Panama to Yokohama, Nagasaki, Shanghai, Hong Kong and the Straits that to drop in at this port lengthens the run between Panama and Yokohama by only 1 63 nautical miles, an inconsiderable matter in a total of 7650. DISCOVERY OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY. Several expeditions were dispatched northward, to estab- lish stations. One of these, under command of Don Gaspar Historical Sketch de Portola, governor of the Californias, left San Diego in July, 1 769, bound overland for Monterey, but overshot it and fetched the Bay of San Francisco instead. It was November. The rains had begun. The expedi- tion had been nearly four months on the march. It had been scourged by famine and scurvy. Provisions were down to acorns. Portola himself was ill. In poor condition the party lingered a few days in the vicinity of San Francisquito creek, where Stanford University now stands, while Sergeant Jose Francisco Ortega, chief of scouts, explored the country to the northward and thus was probably the first white man to see the Golden Gate; which appears, until then, to have been remarkable mainly for the list of great discoverers that had sailed by without discovering it. Five years later, \775, Don Juan Manuel Ayala, Lieu- tenant of Frigate of the Royal Navy, sailed the packet San Carlos, otherwise the Toison de Oro or C olden Fleece, into the Gulf of the Farallones, as the roadstead outside the heads was called, looking for that Port of San Francisco which Viz- caino had mapped in 1603 and Drake had visited in 1579, and on August 5 th poked his bowsprit into the Golden Gate, the first of all the Argonauts of the western world. The following year, 1 776, a land expedition commanded by Col. Juan Bautisia de Anza, arrived on the peninsula and here located the Presidio of San Francisco and the Mission Dolores, as it was called from the little creek nearby — the Mis- sion of St. Francis of Assissi. The next year the venerable presidente of the missions of upper California, Padre Junipero Serra, arrived, and inspected and blessed the work. The Spanish plan of colonization had three departments; the religious, the military and the civil ; which were represented respectively by the Mission, the Presidio and the Pueblo. The Pueblo they called Yerba Buena, after a medicinal trailing vine supposed by the Spanish to facilitate the advent of fresh popu- lation. 8 HandbooJc for San Francisco 5AN FRANClSei 5.1, fjc \ BRUNO ttVEHMQI 'im r^^N RAY iX iANJO. NSW AtMACfH THE BASIN OF SAN FRANCISCO BAY. Historical Sketch In 1 802 there were 800 Indians at the Mission. In the main, they were an unpromising breed and have utterly dis- appeared. In 1 822 Mexico, with California, became independent of Spain. In 1 835 Governor Figueroa declared the Embarcadero of Verba Buena a port of entry, though it was than only a "landing place for fishermen and hide droghers," with a tent which belonged to the harbor master, Capt. W. A. Richardson. Such were the beginnings of San Francisco. The year of the dedication of the Mission and the founding of the Presidio was the year of the Declaration of American Independence. The Pacific Ocean was an unbounded waste. Capt. Cook had not yet made the English discovery of the Hawaiian Islands. There were no settlements of any size on this coast south of Alaska. Lewis and Clarke had not begun their work, and there was no Oregon, no state of Washington, and no British Columbia. As far as the concerns of white people go, there was no Japan. China still slept, and practically the whole commerce of the Pacific consisted of the galleon which, once a year, passed between Acapulco and Manila. After the time of Portola we hear no more of that. THE COVETED PORT. Again in the eighteen-forties, San Francisco became an objective of international strategy. Small as the settlement was at that time, the bay was a coveted prize in the feeble hands of the infant Mexican republic. Russia had retired up the coast, but England and France sent expeditions by sea that looked dangerous. At the oppor- tune time the United States stepped in as Spain had done before. Fremont had traversed the territory with an "explor- ing expedition" and was at Klamath Lake in Oregon; Com- m.odore Sloat was at Monterey with frigate "Savannah," and Capt. Montgomery was in San Freincisco Bay with the sloop- of-war "Portsmouth." I Handboo}( for San Francisco Fremont and his party marched down to Sonoma, where the Bear Flag was raised and independence declared. With Kit Carson, Lieut. Gillespie and a small party, Fre- mont crossed the bay and spiked the guns at the Presidio. Sloat raised the American flag at Monterey, and Montgomery landed a party from the "Portsmouth" and performed the same function in the Plaza at Yerba Buena, July 8, 1 846. From the last mentioned event the Plaza has since been called Portsmouth Square. In 1847 Washington Bartlett, the first American Alcalde, or mayor and judge, learning that another settlement was to be started farther up the bay under the name of Francesca, after General Vallejo's wife, and fearing some loss of pres- tige to his city thereby, declared it was time to drop the mean- ingless name of Yerba Buena and call the young metropolis San Francisco. Much was in a name. The founders of "Francesca" were forced to change their plans, and took the lady's other name, Benicia ; and the ships that cleared for San Francisco Bay naturally dropped anchor before the city that bore the harbor's designation. THE AWAKENING. California was ceded to the United States in 1 848. In March of that year San Francisco had about 820 people, 200 houses, a school, a newspaper, and two wharves. A fifty- vara lot (137J/2 feet square) north of Market street could be obtained by alcalde grant for $ 1 6, which included re- cording fees. South of Market street a 1 00-vara lot could be had for $29. Within two years there were over 20,000 people in the city, and there were three daily papers, seven churches, two theatres and a jail. Steamers were running on the bay, and charging twenty dollars to take a passenger to Sacramento. By July over 200 square rigged vessels had come into port. Within seven and one-half months 697 vessels arrived. Many were driven on the beach and abandoned. The whalemen Historical Sketch 1 1 had to quit San Francisco for Honolulu for fear of losing their crews. Some of the deserted ships became hotels and nineteen were used for warehouses. Commercially the city had leaped to the importance of Philadelphia. It was as though the giant voice of some primeval world force, with all the winds of ocean back of it, had thundered "Sleep no more!" Indeed, with the breakfast eggs at a dollar apiece, cot beds at five dollars a night, and labor at twenty dollars a day, nobody could afford to sleep. In 1849 $2,000,000 in gold was exported and the same amount in goods and coin came back. Gold had been dis- covered at Coloma, in what is now El Dorado county, on Jan- uary 19th, 1848, and by the following fall the rush was on from all over the world, bringing men of all sorts and classes — except the timid and the poor in spirit. The noblest natures and the scum of the earth found them- selves cheek by jowl in the same community. For a time there were neither social, religious nor legal restraints, no institutions of any kind to fit or provide for such conditions; nothing but a general notion on the part of most people that order and equity ought to prevail, and that robbery and violence did. Within a few months there were a hundred unpunished murderers. Then the Vigilance Committee hanged four men, beginning in June of '51 with John Jenkins, who had robbed a store, and following in July and August with Stuart, Whit- aker and McKenzie. By 1856 civil authority was better or- ganized, but the city had fallen, largely, into worse hands, so that the necessity for an assertion of the moral character of the community seemed even more imperative. With the shooting of the editor of the Bulletin, James King of William, who was regarded as the popular defender of righteousness, by James P. Case^, an ex-convict from Sing Sing, and Super- visor of the City and County, the Vigilance Committee was reorganized, under the leadership of William T. Coleman, a merchant, and proceeded to clean things up in such manner 12 Handbook for San Francisco that San Francisco was a model of municipal purity for the next twenty years. The Committee had no legal authority. But it organized nearly 5,000 men, on a military plan, with regiments and companies of infantry, artillery and dragoons; it seized arms from the state; it fortified the two-story brick building known as the Truitt block, at 2 1 5 Sacramento street, using gunny bags filled with sand as a barricade, posted sentinels who ad- mitted no one except on password, held secret deliberations, issued warrants, summonses and other processes, sent out its officers and made arrests, and maintamed a jail on the second floor of its improvised fort for the accused criminals awaiting trial by its juries. The motto on its seal read: "No Creed, No Party, No Sectional Issues," and for three months it gave law to the city. ESTABLISHING ORDER. The Committee's first decisive act was to march to the county jail, plant a brass cannon in front of the door, and de- mand the person of Casey. The sheriff delivered him up. In the jail was Charles Cora, a gambler, who was awaiting re-trial for killing a United States marshal ; having secured a disagreement at his first trial largely through the influence of Col. E. D. Baker, his attorney, afterward killed at Ball's Bluff in the Civil War. The citizen army took Cora, too. It held these men until James King of William died, and on the day of his funeral. May 22, 1856, hanged them from the upper story of Fort Cunnybags, in view of thousands of people who crowded the house-tops and the hills nearby to see it. During its brief control of affairs the Committee banished thirty undesirable citizens, and 800 more thought they had better leave of their own accord. On July 29, 1856, Hetherington and Brace were hanged and the activities of the Committee began to subside. It never disbanded, although it brought its labors to a close with a grand public celebration. Historical Sketch 1 3 THE CIVIL WAR. Among the citizens of the new state, politics were tur- bulent from the first. Out of the hot contention between Brod- erick and Gwin for a United States Senatorship grew the famous duel between Senator BrodericJ( and Judge Terry. It was fought just over the line in San Mateo county, and resulted in Broderick's death. Popular sentiment immediately canonized him as the exponent of Free Soil principles, for the slavery question was becoming acute and Broderick had been among those that contended against slavery in California. As the drama led up to the climax of the Civil War, efforts to draw California into secession became more and more determined, but were defeated largely through the elo- quence and tact of a Unitarian clergyman, Thomas Starr King, of Boston and San Francisco. King was a man of culture, and among a people materially prosperous and intellectually starved he was soon in demand, up and down the state, as a lecturer on literary and philosoph- ical themes. He took advantage of the opportunity to weave into his discussions sound unionist and free labor doctrines, and did it with so much convincing clearness and fair-minded moderation, that he probably contributed more than any other one man to keeping California firm for the Union. His grave, in front of the church at Franklin and Geary streets, is one of the city's proudest relics. Though distant from the theater of the war, San Fran- ciscans had early been familiar with names that became famous in that struggle. In 1853 Sherman swam ashore from a wreck and became the San Francisco representative of a St. Louis banking house. Farragut was at Mare Island when the Vigi- lantes were up. Hooker owned a ranch in Sonoma county, and with Stoneman had made an unsuccessful effort to run a sawmill at Bodega bay. Fremont had a ranch in Mari- posa county. Halleck, Shields and Col. E. D. Baker prac- ticed law in San Francisco. McPherson was stationed on 1 4 Handbool^ for San Francisco Alcatraz island during the early period of the war. Lander, Buell, Ord, Keyes, Heintzelman, Sumner, Hancock, Stone, Porter, Boggs, Grant and Albert Sidney Johnston had all been on the coast at various times. As the Spanish war emphasized the need of a canal at Panama, so the Civil War before it called attention to the isolation of the Pacific Coast, and the need of a railroad to connect it with the East. A young Connecticut engineer named Theodore D. Judah had been called to California to build a line from Sacramento to Placerville. The grandeur of vision that seems to enchant the West came upon him and he dreamed of a railroad across a continent. The dream seized Leland Stanford, Collis P. Huntington, Mark Hopkins, and Charles and E. B. Crocker. They asked great grants from Congress, and the hard logic of the war came to their aid. On July 31, 1862, Congress passed the Pacific Railroad bill. Ground was broken in January, 1 863. They built forty miles of snow- sheds in the mountains and they carted water across the des- ert. In one place they had to haul their rails 740 miles by wagon. But they made it, and drove the last spike at Prom- ontory, in Utah, on May 1 0, 1 869. The blows of the silver sledge on the spike of gold were repeated, stroke for stroke, on a big bell at the City Hall in San Francisco. The road did not reach this city until some time afterward, but the effect was to link California to the nation indissolubly, and the jubilation of the city was just as enthusiastic as though it had immediately become the west- ern terminus. Telegraph communication with the Eastern States was estab- lished in 1 862. COMSTOCK DAYS. A wonderful phase of San Francisco life and one that left an indelible mark on local character was connected with the development of the mines in Nevada. In 1 859 a Canadian ex-trapper and fur trader named Comstock, widely known as "Old Pancake" from his fondness for that article of diet Historical Sketch 15 and his notorious inability to bake a good specimen of it, stumbled on a quartz deposit on the side of Mount Davidson in the Washoe range. He did not discover it. The Comstock lode appears to have been discovered by a couple of Irishmen named O'Reilly and McLaughlin, but Comstock argued them out of a share of it and gave his name to the lode. When the news got abroad there followed the greatest mining frenzy ever known, and one that has not yet entirely subsided. Within thirty years the Comstock mines produced $350,000,000 worth of bullion and paid $1 30,000,000 in dividends, mainly to San Francisco share-holders. This city was the focal point of the fever, although it in- fested the world. California passed through its early gold mining days without a stock exchange, for placer mining was a "pooJ^ man's game" and required little capital; but shortly after the development of the Comstock began, the Stock and Exchange Board was instituted in San Francisco to facilitate the floating of mining companies and to regulate dealings in their shares. This was in 1 862. It was a necessary pro- vision against irresponsibility and wholesale fraud, and yet the dealings soon took on the most violent phases of the specu- lating mania, and the whole community became involved, from the "tin-horn sport" to the clergyman, from the washerwoman to the banker. Before the end of 1861 nearly one hundred companies had been formed. By 1876 there were three stock exchanges, all thriving. Violent fluctuations of the stock list could be pro- duced by manipulated news and crooked tips from mining operations that were going on beyond the state line and a thousand feet underground. Giants fought, and financially slew one another, for control of different mines. Discoveries of "bonanzas," or rich deposits, caused immense jumps in price in a few hours. At one time the aggregate paper values, as quoted on the stock market, ran over $700,000,000. Millionaires were made overnight. Strong banks were founded in the city to finance the mining and milling. Men Handbook for San Francisco arose to financial power who had a bold grasp of affairs, and a startling breadth of view, combined with an intense love for the city where they had made their wealth, and the brightest dreams of its future power and beauty. They lavished money on such enterprises as the Palace Hotel. They and the railroad magnates crowned Nob Hill with palaces whose walls were hung with the costliest tapes- tries and the most beautiful paintings, whose teak and ebony finishings were inlaid with mother-of-pearl and ivory, and which made the name of that bit of hill-top renowned all over the world. In 1872 there occurred a slump in stocks in which prices dropped $60,000,000 in ten days. There was a general rally of the list, and another decline, in 1875, of $100,000,- 000, of which $42,000,000 was lost in a single week. Gradually the excitement subsided, to flame up again fit- fully in I 886 and then fall away once more. But the com- munity had lived so long in an atmosphere of enchantment that the glamour of those days has but increased with time, and the real San Franciscan feels that his city has passed through the golden romance that makes others commonplace by con- trast. Among the memorable names of the time are those of the "Big Four" that built the Central Pacific Railroad — Hunt- ington, Hopkins, Stanford and Crocker; and the battling giants of the Comstock — Mackay & Fair, Flood & O'Brien, Alvinza Hayward, D. O. Mills, Adolph Sutro, United States Senators Stewart, Jones and Sharon (Fair also was a United States Senator), W. C. Ralston, E. J. Baldwin; and James R. Keene, who until his death in January, 1913, was one of dominant figures of the Wall Street market. DEVASTATION AND RECOVERY. The census of 1 900 gave San Francisco a population of 342, 782. That of 1910 raised it to 4 1 6,9 1 2, a gain of over Historical Sketch 1 7 2 1 per cent in a decade ; and between the two counts the city suffered the greatest fire of which modern men have any knowl- edge. The conflagration of April 18th to 2/st, 1906, burned 497 city blocks, or four square miles, out of the heart of the city. From the Embarcadero, between the foot of Taylor street and the foot of Howard, it swept southwestward to Van Ness avenue, got a block beyond, from Clay to Sutter, jumped Van Ness again between Golden Gate avenue and Page street and burned three blocks westward, and at the same time swept the populous area south of Market street as far south- east as Townsend, and as far southwest as Dolores and Twentieth. Twenty-eight thousand buildings were destroyed in three days. The railroads carried two hundred thousand people out of town. The whole business district was a dreary waste of ashes in which the only business done for weeks consisted in dragging safes out of the ruins and breaking them open in the hope of finding some of their contents unburned. Yet as this is being written, the merchants of this city are inviting the people of the West to a fashion show in the most beautiful modern stores, in well-paved, clean, brilliantly lighted streets — a fashion show richer and more sumptuous than can be seen anywhere outside of Paris, designed to appeal to the taste and pocket books of a prosperous people. And the city as a whole has invited the world to the greatest inter- national exposition thus far held. Estimated on the figures of the public service corporations, a sure index, the population of San Francisco in 1913 is 530,- 000. In March, 1913, real estate sold on its main thorough- fare at $14,000 a front foot. In the histories of American cities there are no wonders comparable to these. And yet in looking over San Fran- cisco's past one is forced to conclude that any one of these contributing causes of growth might have been omitted and yet the city would h^v^ be^n here. It would have been a 1 8 Handbook for San Francisco thriving community by this time without the gold mines, for Americans were beginning to settle in California before the presence of gold was generally suspected, and agriculture and commerce would have made San Francisco great. Order and security would in some way have been evolved if not by the Vigilance Committee. The Comstock might never have been discovered, and still San Francisco would have continued to thrive, beyond any other city of the West. The Spanish galleons no longer traverse their ancient route from Manila to Acapulco, but fleets of steel and steam must pass on the same trail, back and forth between Europe and Asia. Despite earthquake and fire, the city's commercial fabric stands on the surest of foundations — that of economic necessity. Were there no San Francisco in existence men would have to begin and build it now. SAN FRANCISCO— IN GENERAL. The beauty and grandeur of San Francisco's location have delighted every visitor that has seen the region properly. With the possible exception of Constantinople, no other city has such a setting. It occupies the tip of a peninsula about 6^ miles across, almost surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west, San Francisco Bay on the east and northeast, and, along the north, the Golden Gate connecting the two. The basin of San Francisco Bay is a magnificent amphi- theater rimmed with hills that rise here and there to mountain stature. In the bosom of this amphitheater lies the Bay, a gleaming sheet dotted with islands and shining sails, criss- crossed by busy ferry boats, and ploughed by stately ocean steamers or big square-riggers from "around the Horn." It is 65 miles long, from 4 to 1 miles in width; and into it the great rivers of California, the Sacramento and the San Joaquin, discharge the water that falls on the west slope of the Sierra Nevada mountains and the east side of the Coast In General 1 9 Range, and in the central valley section of the State, a region 400 miles long and from 50 to 60 miles across. The Golden Gate is the outlet of this drainage area and the channel through which the tides ebb and flow between the bay and the ocean. It is about 2^ miles long, and P/a miles in width, and, with its rolling blue water, its light- houses, fortifications, islands and processions of majestic ships, is one of the inspiring scenes of the western contment. As many as twenty-five steamers move through it in a day. It is the only breach through the Coast Range mountains of Cali- fornia. Beyond the Golden Gate rise the huge bluffs and ridges of Marin County, their endless convolutions painted in subdued and harmonious earth colors. Up the ocean shore can be seen long points of land running westward and making other bays. In San Francisco itself, at points almost providentially dis- posed, rise hills, from ,300 to over 900 feet in height, from whose summits superb panoramas of the city, bay and ocean open to the view. How these vistas have impressed one of the most scholarly and discriminating of travelers appears in the oft-quoted state- ment of James Bryce, former British Ambassador to the United States, and author of the "American Commonwealth," who says: "FeXv cities in the world can vie with San Francisco either in the beauty or in the natural advantages of her situation; indeed, there are only two places in Europe — Constantinople and Gibraltar — that combine an equally perfect landscape with what may be called an equally imperial position. . , . "The city itself is full of bold hills, rising steeply from the deep water. The air is keen, dry and bright, like the air of Greece, and the waters not less blue. Perhaps it is this air and light, recalling the cities of the Mediterranean, that make one involuntarily look up to the tops of these hills for the feudal castle or the ruins of the Acropolis, which one thinks must crown them." 20 Handbook for San Francisco Along the west side of the city runs the Great Highway, following the ocean almost in a straight line for three miles, and here the long rollers of the Pacific thunder on the beach and sink back under shrouds of foam. The whole frontage of San Francisco along the ocean is about eight miles, from the San Mateo county line to Fort Point. This territory covers about 46J/2 square miles of hill and vale and sand dunes and city. It is an area of great topo- graphical variety and contains 1 4 good-sized hills. Market street runs southwest from the Ferry building to Twin Peaks, making small angles, or gores, with the streets running west on the north side of it. South of Market, the streets are perpendicular and parallel to it. The general house numbering scheme in San Francisco is based on a scale of one hundred numbers to the block. Numbers increase from the Embarcadero westward, and, from Market street, in both directions. Thus the house numbers on each street slanting westward from the northwest side of Market street (the north side, as it is called locally) begin one hundred numbers behind those on the parallel streets north of it. City directories may be consulted at almost all drug stores and will give the locations of churches, fraternal orders and halls, charitable organizations, clubs, theaters, consulates, pri- vate schools, and similar institutions, in classified lists to be found in the index. The directory also gives a street and avenue guide with house numbers complete. In the following pages we shall indicate more specifically some places and objects of particular interest that no intelligent traveler would willingly omit to see. CLIMATE. San Francisco has one of the finest of climates, with com- fortable and invigorating temperatures the year around. Stim- ulating sea breezes blow during the summer afternoons, in- In General 2 1 suring against heat, and usually falling in the evening, so that the nights are extremely pleasant — a condition that does a great deal to promote the out-door night life of the city. Fogs are frequent, but instead of being dreaded are regarded as a cosmetic. The San Francisco complexion is celebrated. One never suffers here either from heat or cold, and every night is cool enough to enable one to sleep comfortably under blankets. Snow sometimes falls, but so rarely as to be a subject of comment for several days, and it never falls in sufficient quantity, or stays long enough on the ground, to make good sleighing or snow-balling. The Weather Bureau's records show light falls of snow on the following dates since 1876: Jan. 21st, 1876; Dec. 31st, 1882; Feb. 6th, 1883; Feb. 7th, 1884; Feb. 5th, 1887; Jan. 4th, 1888; Jan. 16th, 1888; March 2nd, 1894; March 2nd, 1896; Feb. 3rd, 1903; Feb. 26th, 1911; Feb. 27th, 1911; Jan. 9th, 1913 — thirteen times in 37 years. During the cold snap of Jan. 1st to 8th, 1913, the lowest temperature at San Francisco, according to the Bureau's offi- cial records, was 33 degrees above zero. The lowest tem- perature ever officially recorded at San Francisco was 29 degrees above zero. Tornadoes, typhoons and hurricanes are unknown. Thun- derstorms are very rare — 28 have been recorded in 20 years, and eight of them occurred in one year. In 20 years there were only 56 hail storms. Some most interesting studies of the local climate have been made by Alexander G. McAdie, professor of meteor- ology in charge of the local office of the Weather Bureau. One of these is entitled "The Clouds and Fogs of San Fran- cisco" and is from the publishing house of A. M. Robertson. Another is "The Climatology of California," and a third ia "The Climate of San Francisco," written by Prof. McAdie 22 Handbook for San Francisco in conjunction with George H. Wilson, local forecaster. From the first named work we quote: Fog Is San Francisco's greatest asset It keeps the city cool in summer and thus makes for heahh; also It keeps the city warm In winter, preventing frosts and moderating the fall in temperature San Fran- ciscans love their fog. When away from the city they pine for it, and especially during summer. Not without reason do they appreciate the coohng effect of the fog. It enables one to sleep through summer nights and rise refreshed and ready for the day's requirements. CUSTOMS REGULATIONS. Travelers arriving at San Francisco from foreign countries will find the customs laws administered, as far as the visitor is concerned, with tact, courtesy and intelligence, and will save themselves annoyance if they will strive to conform to the necessary conditions of the tariff regulations. The purser on the steamer usually distributes declaration blanks and printed notices of the customs requirements in regard to baggage. The notices specify what and how much can be brought in free, and what must be declared. As a rule, articles are dutiable unless specifically exempted by law. MONEY. San Franciscans are given to the use of gold and silver money to a degree unknown to the people of the Eastern States. Unless you request paper at the bank you will prob- ably be paid coin. The smallest coin in general use is the nickel five-cent piece, although of late copper cents are com- ing into circulation. The values of foreign coins in terms of United States money, have been proclaimed by the acting Secretary of the Treasury, on the estimate of the Director of the Mint, to be as follows: Customs Regulations 23 Country Moneiar}) Unit U Argentine Rep Peso Austria-Hungary Crown Belgium Franc Bolivia Boliviano Brazil Milreis British Am Dollar Costa Rica Colon Chile Peso ru- Tap] ^ Shanghai L-rima ^ aei , . . ., ' Haikwan Colombia Dollar Denmark Crown Ecuador Sucre Egypt Pound, 1 00 piastres Finland Mark France Franc German Emp Mark Great Britain Pound Sterling Greece Drachma Hayti Gourde India (British) Pound Sterling Italy Lira Japan Yen Liberia Dollar Mexico Peso Netherlands Florin Newfoundland Dollar Norway Crown Panama Balboa Persia Kran Peru Libra Philippine Isl Peso Portugal Milreis Russia Ruble Spain Peseta Sweden Crown Switzerland Franc Turkey Piaster Uruguay Peso Venezuela Bolivar Value in , 5. Mone^ $0.96,5 0.20,3 0.19,3 0.38,9 0.54,6 1.00,0 0.46,5 0.36,5 0.69,2 0.77,1 L00,0 0.26,8 0.48,7 4.94,3 0.19,3 0.19,3 0.23,8 4.86,61/2 0.19,3 0.96,5 4.86,61/i 0.19,3 0.49,8 1.00,0 0.49,8 0.40,2 1.01,4 0.26,8 1 .00,0 0.17,04 4.86,61/2 0.50,0 1.08,0 0.51,5 0.19,3 0.26,8 0.19,3 0.04,4 1.03,4 0.19,3 24 Handboof^ for San Francisco REACHING THE CITY. Travelers enter San Francisco in one of three general ways: Through the Golden Gate if they come by sea, landing at one of the State piers on the Embarcadero, or at the Govern- ment transport docks at Fort Mason on the northern water- front; at the ferry Building, also on the Embarcadero; or at Third and Townsend street depot, if they come by the South- ern Pacific's coast line trains. The heaviest travel enters at the Ferry building, the city's great water gate, having crossed the Bay from Oakland or Point Richmond on the suburban ferries. These boats are the swiftest, largest and most commodious to be found in such a service anywhere, and the passage is full of novelty and charm. No other city is approached by such a royal way, and the traveler arriving thus may well look forward to the last stage of his journey as by far the best and most beautiful. You pass Yerba Buena (Goat) Island and the Naval Train- ing Station, and if you are early enough you can hear the bugles singing reveille from the parade ground above the little cove. Across the bay to the northwest rises the bold cone of Tamalpais, 2,592 feet high, with the beautiful hills of Marin county, San Francisco's main playground, for its buttresses. Before it is Angel Island, with the east cantonment of the U. S. Army recruiting station on its eastern shore. To the northward are the hills of Sonoma county, "Land of the Moon," the Indians called it, one of the principal wine districts of California ; and if the day be very clear one can see, directly north, Mt. St. Helena, over 4,000 feet high and 55 miles distant in an air line. South of the bluff Marin county hills is the opening of the Golden Gate, visible for a moment before you pass Yerba Buena island, and just inside it rises Alcairaz island, with the gray walls of its military prison, soon to become a Federal penitentiary. Reaching the Cifp 25 On the peninsula of San Francisco, to the extreme right, rises a scarred and precipitous bluff, with dwelHngs clinging to its flanks, and trees upon its crest. This is Telegraph HilU "Crazy owld, daisy owld Tilygraft Hill," as Wallace Irwin called it in one of his San Francisco lyrics. In early days a semaphore on its 300-foot height announced incoming vessels to the merchants in the old business district near its southern base. Its summit, where the trees stand, is now Pioneer Park, whence there is a wonderful view over the city and Bay, and in the third of the "Walks About San Francisco," in this book, you can find the easiest way to ascend. South of Telegraph appears Russian Hill, also affording a fine view, and No. IV of the "Walks" will tell you how to reach that. The next prominent feature southward is the palatial Fair- mont Hotel, crowning Nob Hill, renowned as the residence district of the Comstock and railroad millionaires. The domed skyscraper that appears southward of the Ferry building and a considerable distance behind it, is the Claus Spreckels building, one of the tallest in the West. It stands at Newspaper Square, with the Examiner and Chronicle build- ings near it. Slightly to the left of it is the dark and solid looking dome of the Humboldt Savings Bank building, and rising just behind that is to be the Call building, 400 feet high. These buildings indicate the line of Market street. Southward still are the rolling hills of the P otter o industrial district. Far to the left of that a long tongue of land juts into the Bay. This is Hunter's Point, where great drydocJ^s are built in the solid rock. One of them is 750 feet long, the largest on the Pacific coast of the two Americas. With the Union Iron Works, in the Potrero, these docks are now part of the Bethlehem Steel Corporation's properties. Flocks of wheeling tern follow the boat, sailing gracefully en the breeze, and swooping without a miss at bits of food thrown them by the passengers. These are the famous "sea- gulls" of San Francisco Bay. They are here all winter, from 26 Handhool^ for San Francisco Copyright, 1910, R. J. Waters & Co. UNVEILING THE TETRAZZINI TABLET, NEWSPAPER SQUARE. October to March or April, and are an attractive feature. Their summers they spend in the Arctic. Soon the busy panorama of the city front grows more dis- tinct ; miles of long docks, forests of masts and steam funnels, busy tugs towing barges along a commercial battle line, some great ship in from the Orient, a bark from Antwerp or a five- masted schooner from the islands; the gray stone Ferry build- ing with its clock tower like the Giralda of Seville; and back of it the city rising on its majestic hills, tier upon tier of it, spire, dome and tall skyscraper, humming with life and seeth- ing with mighty, organized energies. Or, night may magically transform the scene, blanking the buildings into the darkness and leaving the streets marching over the hills with long ranks and cross ranks of torches. The shipping and the pier heads will be pointed with other Reaching the Cit\) 27 lights, and above them all will appear the piercing star at the top of the Ferry tower. jj- You go ashore through the Ferry building and find yourself at the foot of Market street, the main thoroughfare. The Emharcadero stretches away to the right and left. The city lies before you. If you arrive at Third and Townsend depot, cars bound northwest on Third will take you to the heart of the business district at "^hird, Kearny and Market streets, or Newspaper Square, where are located the offices and publishing plants of the three great morning dailies of the city, the Call, Chron- icle and Examiner. This is where Lotta Crabtree, a stage favorite of former days, erected a fountain to show her love for the yoiichful city, and where Luisa Tetrazzini, on Christ- mas c. '910, sang in the open air to more than 100,000 people and thus established the annual winter street concert at this point as one of the regular festivals of San Francisco. Or, on Townsend street, trolley cars marked "20' on the roof will take you up Fourth street to Market, and thence out Ellis street through the western part of the city as far as the beach. But the traveler to be envied is he that approaches San Francisco from over the ocean. He will enter an imperial port. He will sail on the tides of mighty rivers into the heart of a great State. He will see the prone, eternal hills, "like giants at a hunting, chin on hand," giving him a patron- izing sort of welcome; the bold bluffs of Marin county, the Berkeley hills on the "Contra Costa" or opposite shore, per- haps the tip of Diablo, nearly 4,000 feet high, rising behind them, if the day be clear. After his long voyage across the open ocean he will have the sense of protection and harborage that only great havens give. He will feel that this arrival is like no other arrival anywhere, and departure an evil to be indefinitely deferred. Suppose your last port was Honolulu, or Yokohama. Say your captain makes his landfall at dawn. Straight as a bullet 28 Handbook for San Francisco he drives for the Golden Gate. The westerly breeze is with you and you feel no chill. A jagged silhouette lifts from the sea as you look toward the rising sun, and as you draw abreast of it and get better light the Southeast Farallone looms to port like a castle of sculptured pearl. Past this outpost and past the light-house on it, and you are in that Gulf of the Farallones known to the Spaniards for generations before they learned it was only the ocean dooryard to California. Dead ahead is the coast, a rim of airy looking hills in the morning mist, so soft in their melting outline that no hint at first appears of the breach through which the waters of the broad valleys find their way to sea. Fifteen miles farther and you pass the light-ship. Now you face the Gate, opening directly before you. The bold head- lands. Point Lobos and Point Bonita, rear themselves to right and left. Far to starboard, opposite Point Lobos, are some brownish crags just outside the surf, from which you may imagine you hear the throaty bark of fat old sea lions. Alcatraz and Angel islands loom ahead, Alcatraz with the light-house and the gray prison on it. The peninsula of San Francisco crouches couchant, facing the Marin county hills. Slowly you draw past Mile Rock light, and Baker's Beach curving in a long crescent that terminates in Fort Point with Fort W infield Scott at its tip. The timbered slopes from which this cape juts out are part of the United States military reservation, known from early Spanish days as the Presidio. Its smiling green expanses mask the emplacements of many high-powered rifled cannon ; for San Francisco has been called the best fortified city in the country. Opposite Fort Point is a white cape projecting from the Marin county shore known as Lime Point. Beyond Fort Point are the 625 acres of the Panama-Pacific Exposition grounds, a natural amphitheater glorified with the domes and spires, the courts and palaces that embody the dreams of some of the foremost living architects. Before It is the yacht harbor, and just beyond that are the Government Reaching the City 29 Transport Docl^s, whence the troops depart for Hawaii and the Philippines. Down the slopes behind and through the spaces between pours the city ; dock and quay, warehouse and factory, fort and Presidio and Fishermen's Wharf with its lateen-sailed fleet, the dwellings of the people and the build- ings of the World's Fair, blent in one perfect picture. And EXPOSITION SITE, ON THE GOLDEN GATE. the night approach is equally inspiring — gloomy bulks of land, the beacons winking from the light-houses, and then a glory of lamps flung over the hills like spangles on a violet robe. You have reached a city so rich in its varied types and personal elements, so versatile, so human in its strengths and weaknesses, so great in its past achievements and strong in its ambitions and its future, that it is fit to rank among the dominant communities of the world. BRING NO FRUIT INTO CALIFORNIA. On behalf of California's great fruit interests, on which largely the prosperity of the State depends, we ask all travelers not to bring in fruit or vegetables. With its great fruit regions and its wondrous climate just between the temperate and tropical, fruit pests unwittingly in- troduced in the baggage of some visitor might thrive and mul- 30 Handboof^ for San Francisco tiply in California to such a degree as to imperil one of the leading industries of the State. There are many such pests that are, at some stage of their life history, invisible, so that it is impossible for any one but an expert in horticulture and entomology to say whether fruit is infected or not. So do not try to bring in any fruit or vegetable. The same considerations apply to the mongoose, which would exterminate quail, partridges and other ground nesting birds and make the poultry industry almost impossible for the time being — and possibly to other animal pets. Before you have completed this journey you may wish to make California your home. Help us take care of it as though it were. GETTING UP TOWN. Many of the larger hotels send 'busses to meet incoming trains and steamers. Some are free, and some charge 25 or 50 cents a passenger for this service. Street cars can be taken at the Ferry or at Third and Townsend depot, and the traveler landing at the steamer docks south of Market street can reach the Third street cars by way of King street, southwest to Third. If you prefer to travel by hack, taxi or automobile, make a definite bargain beforehand with the driver himself, and not with a go-between whom you may never see again. TAXICAB, HACK AND AUTOMOBILE FARES. From the Ferry and Railroad Depots and steamer landings to hotels in the "Downtown Hotel District," a flat rate was be- ing established when this book went to press. This rate will not exceed $1.00 for a vehicle containing four persons or less. Ask your taxicab driver in advance for the rate to where you are going. To points outside of this District, meter rates apply. See page 336 for meter and other rates in detail. Getting Your Baggage Up ToTvn 31 GETTING YOUR BAGGAGE UP TOWN. There are two methods open to you for handling your baggage, either of them good and convenient. First, you can give your checks to the solicitor on the train or on the steamer, take his receipt, tell him to what hotel or lodgings you are going, and be reasonably sure your trunks and bags will reach you with a fair degree of promptness. If you come by a steamer which is not boarded by a baggage transfer agent, your next recourse aboard is the purser or the freight clerk. Second, you can hold your checks and give them to the clerk of the hotel at which you stop. All the good hotels have arrangements for taking care of their guests in this respect. The method is likely to be fully as prompt as the other, and if you wish to look about before definitely engaging your rooms, you will not have to pay for hauling your baggage from place to place. The fair charge for carrying a trunk to any point except in the outlying or hilly parts of the city is $.50, and for a piece of hand luggage $.25. There are some companies that do it for less. Baggage can remain in the railway depots twenty-four hours without charge. After that it pays storage charges at the rate of $.25 for the first twenty- four hours and $. 1 for each succeeding day or part thereof. To avoid payment for storage on baggage, it should be claimed immediately on arrival at destination. Storage of baggage is free at San Francisco while a pas- senger on an interstate ticket is gone to Yosemite valley. If the traveler's destination in the city is a private house he will find baggage transfer companies listed in the classified department of the telephone directory, but it is better to be guided in that case by the advice of friends. 32 Handbook for San Francisco PALM COURT OF THE PALACE HOTEL. HOTELS. The hotels of San Francisco are among the finest in the world. For comfort, and efficiency of service they have never been excelled. There are no old hotels in the down- town section of the city, for the fire of 1 906 burned out every one in that district, with the result that all of them now existing there are new, sanitary and freshly decorated and furnished. In the cheapest of them one gets modern accom- modations. There are more good rooms in second or even third class hotels in San Francisco than in any other city. San Francisco's renowned old hostelries were rebuilt after the fire, and generally speaking are conducted under the same management as of old. The Palace, built by William C. Ralston, was known all over the world. Its famous Palm Court was a splendid glass-domed space 84 by 1 44 feet in size, surrounded by an inner gallery at every floor, and with Some of the Hotels 33 a huge palm in the center. And it was said of it, as KipHng said of the India Docks, that if you waited there long enough you could see anybody you wished. Merely to take down its walls after the fire cost over $70,000, and it is now rebuilt in steel and brick in the most substantial way and beautifully appointed in every particular. The Palm Court is even more beautiful than before, and a favorite rendezvous. In the bar is Maxfield Parrish's mural decoration, the "Pied Piper of Hamelin." Ladies sometimes drop in to view it. The Fairmont, on the summit of Nob Hill, represents a later development. With its view over the Bay it is the per- manent home of many wealthy people, and its great Norman cafe bids fair to become almost as famous as the Palm Court of the Palace. The Hotel St. Francis was burned out by the fire, but its steel frame and stone walls hardly had time to cool before a banquet of business men was held in its dismantled White and Gold room to celebrate the beginning of reconstruction. Here one finds the last refinement of perfect hotel service. George Wharton James, writing of the Hotel Men's 1910 trip, says of it: Briefly, there Is no finer Interpretation of the art of pubhc hospitahty in the United States today, than is presented by the complete three-winged St. Francis, which, with over 800 guest rooms, has the largest capacity of any hotel on the Pacific Coast. In 1913 the St. Francis is constructing a fourth wing, which will make it one of the largest tourist hotels in the world. The Stewart is another fine hostelry, and so are the Bellevue, the Granada, the Union Square, the Cadillac, the Herald, the Sutter, the Manx, and scores of others. It is impossible to mention them all, in a work of this size, for this is the greatest hotel city in the world in proportion to population, having over 2,000 hotels, lodging houses and apartment houses, 90 per cent of them new. However, the following mention of but a few of the better ones of their class, centrally located. 34 Handbook for San Francisco will afford the visitor a good choice of price and accommo- dation. The phrase "European Plan" means that the room only is included in the price. "American Plan" means meals in- cluded. Where the hotel is conducted on the American plan, board usually costs about $2 a day in addition to rooms. Hotel Acme: 819 Mission street. Mission street cars. European plan. Moderate prices; at 50 cents to $1.50. Hotel Adena: 144 O'Farrell street, opposite Orpheum theater. European plan, $1.00 a day. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. From Third and Townsend depot taJ^e Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Stockton street and Tvalk one block north. From Ferr]) building take an]^ Market street car to Stockton street and walk one block north, or Gear]) Street Municipal RailvDay to Stockton street and walk one block south. Alpine House: 480 Pine street, next to California Mar- ket. European plan; 50c, 75c and $1.00 a day; $2.50, $3.00, $3.50, $4.00, $5.00 and $6.00 a week. Cafe and grill in the building. Caters largely to country trade. From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, get off at Pine street and walk half a block ^^sf. From Ferry building take Third and Kentucky car. Line No. 16, to the same point Hotel Argonaut: Fourth street and Pioneer Place, close to Market street. European plan, $1.00 a day and up. Cafe and grill in connection. Free bus. Arlington Hotel: 480 Ellis street, corner of Leavenworth. European or American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day and up; American, $2.50 a day and up. Cafe in connec- tion. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Free bus. Some of the Hotels 35 Astoria Hotel: Northwest corner Bush street and Grant avenue. Rooms at 50 cents to $1.50. Tal^e Sutter street cars, on Line No. /, 2 or 3, and walk one block north. Hotel Atlanta: Seventh and Mission streets, opposite the Post Office. Eluropean plan, 75c to $2.00 a day; $3.50 to $8.00 a week. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- mercial travelers. Free bus (Argonaut or Winchester). Baldwin Hotel: Grant avenue near Sutter street. All rooms with private bath. European plan; rates, $1.00 to $2.00 a day for one person; $1.50 to $2.00 a day for two. Family and commercial trade. From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, to Sutter street and walk a block west. From the Ferr-y building take Sutter street car and get off at Grant avenue. Baltimore Hotel: 1015 Van Ness avenue. European or American plan. Rates, European, 75c a day and up; Amer- ican, $2.00 a day and up. Family trade. From Third and Townsend Depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Van Ness avenue and walk one block north. From Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer at Fourth to Ellis street and get off at Van Ness avenue. Bellevue Hotel: Southwest corner of Geary and Taylor streets. All rooms with private bath. European or Ameri- can plan. Rates, European, $2.00 a day and up; Amer- ican, $4.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection; sample rooms for commercial travelers. Bus from depots at 25c a person, or From Third and Townsend Depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16 and transfer ic Geary Street Municipal Railway, passing the door. 36 HandbooI( for San Francisco From the Ferry huilding taJ^e Geary Street Municipal Rail- way, passing the door. Brooklyn Hotel: On First street, between Folsom and Harrison. European or American plan. Rales, European, 50c to $1.00 a day; American, $1.00 to $1.50. Family and commercial trade. Free bus. Hotel Brownell: 335 Larkin street, near Golden Gate avenue. European plan, $1.00 a day and up; rates by the week or month. Tourist, family and commercial trade. From Third and Torvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16 to Market street, transfer to McAllister No. 5, get off at Larkin and n>alk north. From Ferry huilding take McAllister car. Line No. 5, to the same point. Hotel Cadillac: Eddy and Leavenworth streets. Euro- pean or American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day and up; American, $2.50 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Tourist, family and commercial trade. Free auto bus. Columbia Hotel: 409 O'Farrell street, corner of Taylor. European plan, $1.00 a day single, $1.50 double; with private bath, $1.50 single, $2.00 double. Tourist and family trade. From Third and Torvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Taylor street and walk one block north. From Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer at Fourth street to Ellis car to the same point. Continental Hotel: 127 Ellis street, near Powell. Euro- pean plan, $1.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Sample fooms for commercial travelers. Family and commercial trade. Some of the Hotels 37 From Third and Toivnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Powell street. From Ferry building tal^e any Market street car to Powell and Walk one block north. Hotel Dale: 34 Turk street, European plan, $1.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- mercial travelers. Free bus from steamer docks. From Third and Townsend depot take car of Line 15 or 16, transfer to Market, west- bound, and get off at Mason. From the Ferry take Market street car to Mason. The hotel will pay taxicab fare. THE FAIRMONT HOTEL, NOB HILL. Fairmont Hotel: Occupies block between Powell and Ma- son, and California and Sacramento streets; 500 rooms, each with private bath. European plan, $2.50 a day and up. Ladies' grill and gentlemen's grill in connection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Bus meets all trains, ferries and steamers at a charge of 50c per person, or From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car^ 38 Handbook for San Francisco Line No. 20, to corner of Ellis and Powell, transfer to PoTvell street cable, get off at California. From the Ferr]) building take a Sacramento street car, no number, to Mason street. Hotel Clen: Turk and Market streets. European plan, $1.00 to $1.50 a day. From Third and Torvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, transfer to Market street rvest bound and get off at Turk and Mason streets. From the Ferry building take any Market street car to the same point. Hotel Closter: O'Farrell and Mason streets. $1.50 a day with private bath; $1.00 without, for either one or two persons. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Caters to a Tourist and California State trade. From Third and Torvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Mason street and rvalk one block north. From the Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer to Powell street cable, get off at O'Farrell and walk one block west. From the steamer docks take any cab or taxicab to the hotel and the hotel will pay the driver. Golden Eagle Hotel: 253 Third street, between Howard and Folsom. European plan, 50c to $2.00 a day. From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, to Folsom street. From the Ferry building take Folsom street car, no number, or Howard street car, no number, to Third street. Golden West Hotel: Ellis and O'Farrell streets. Euro- pean plan, $1.00 a day and up, single; $1.50 a day and up, double. Cafe in connection. Commercial and tourist trade. Free bus. Some of the Hotels 39 Goodfriend Hotel: 245 Powell street, between Geary and O'Farrell. European plan, $1.50 to $2.00 a day. Sam- ple rooms for commercial travelers. Free bus. Granada Hotel: Sutter and Hyde streets. European or American plan. Rates, European plan, $1.50 a day and up for one, $2.50 a day and up for two; American, $3.50 a day and up for one, $6.00 a day and up for two. American plan dming rooms. From Third and Torvnsend depot taJ^e Kearn]) and Beach car. No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, transfer to Sutter street car. No. 1 , 2 or 3, and get off at Hyde street. From the Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer to Sutter street car. No. / , 2 or 3, and get off at same point. Grand Central Hotel: Market and Polk streets. European plan, $1.50 and $2.00 a day with private bath; 75c to $1.50 without. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Caters to a commercial and tourist trade. Free bus. Herbert's Bachelor Hotel: 159 Powell street. With or without private bath. European plan, $1.00 a day and up, $6.00 a week and up. German grill in connection, always open. Not a family hotel. Caters to a business men's trade. From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Powell street and walk half a block north. From the Ferry building take any Market street car to Powell street and walk northward a block and a half. Hotel Graystone: 66 Geary street. European plan, $1.00 to $2.50 a day. Free bus. Hotel Hacienda: 580 O'Farrell street. European plan, $1.50 a day with private bath, $1.00 a day without. Caters to family trade. 40 Handboof^ for San Francisco From Third and ToTi>nsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Jones street and walk one block north. From the Ferr^ building take any Market street car, transfer to Ellis street and get off at the same point. Hotel Herald: Comer Eddy and Jones streets. European plan, $1.50 per day with private bath, $1.00 per day without; 50c additional to above rates for two people. Cafe in con- nection. From Third and Toxvnscnd depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Jones street and walk one block south. From Ferr'y building take Turk and Eddy, No. 4, passing the door. Hotel Holland: 161 Ellis street. European plan, $1.00 to $2.50 a day and 50c additional for two in a room. Caters to a tourist and local trade. Free bus. Hotel Manx: Powell and O'Farrell streets. European plan, $1.50 a day and up. Grill in connection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Caters to a tourist. State and commercial trade. Bus at 25c per person, or From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Powell street and Walk one block north. From the Ferry building take any Market street car, transfer to Powell street, or take the Geary Street Municipal Railway to Powell street and walk « ^^^^f block south. Mission Central Hotel: Sixteenth and Valencia streets, in the Mission District; 75 rooms; single or en suite. European plan; 75c to $1.50 a day. From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 1 5, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, to Market street and transfer to Valencia car. No. 9, passing the door. From the Ferry building take Valencia car No. 9. Hotel Normandie: Sutter and Gough streets. European or American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day and up; Some of the Hotels 41 American, $2.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Caters to a family and tourist trade. Free automobile bus. Pacific States Hotel: 556 California street, between Mont- gomery and Kearny. European plan only ; no cafe or grill. Rooms $1.00 a day; with private bath, $1.50. Free bus, or From Third and Torvnsend depot take Line 15 or 16; from steamer docks take Line 16; from the Ferr\) building walk up Market to California street cable car, tphich passes the door. Palace Hotel: Market street, between Third and New Montgomery. 680 rooms. European plan, $2.50 a day and up. Cafe and grill in connection. Sample rooms for com- mercial travelers. Bus from all depots at 50c a passenger, or From Third and Townsend depot take Kearn]) and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky* No. 16, to Market street and rvalk east half a block- From the Ferr}^ building take any Market street car, passing the door. Hotel Potter: Mission and Ninth streets. European plan, 50c to $1.00 per day; $2.50 to $4.00 a week. Cafe in connection. From Third and ToTvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, and transfer at Mission street to west bound car. From Ferry building take any Mission street car. Hotel Regent: 562 Sutter street. European or American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 a day and up; American, $2.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, and transfer at Sutter to west bound Sutter street car. No. 1 , 2 or 3. passing the door. From Ferry building take any Market street car to Sutter street and transfer to Sutter street car, No. 1 , 2, or 3. 42 Handbook for San Francisco Hotel Richelieu: Van Ness avenue and Geary street. Eu- ropean or American plan. Rates, European, $1.50 a day and up; American, $3.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. From Third and Townsend depot taf^e Kearny^ and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky, No. 16, transfer to Cear^ Street Municipal Railxpay and get off at Van Ness avenue. From the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- rvay to the same point. UNION SQUARE AND THE ST. FRANCIS HOTEL. Roehampton Hotel: 419 Golden Gate avenue, corner of Larkin. European plan, 75c a day and up. Caters to a com- mercial and tourist trade. From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Market street, transfer to McAllister street, get off at Larkin and walk a block north. From the Ferry building take McAllister street car. Line No. 5, to Larkin street, and rvalk a block north. Hotel St. Francis: Powell and Geary streets, facing Union Square Park, 1 ,000 rooms ; single or en suite. European plan, Some of the Hotels 43 $2.00 a day and up. Cafe and grill in connection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Bus from all depots at 50c a passenger, or From Third and Torvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky^ ^o. 16, transfer to Geary Street Municipal Railway and get off at Powell street. From the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- way to Powell street. Hotel St. James: Van Ness avenue, near McAllister street. European plan, 75c a day and up. Cafe in connection. Caters to a family trade, tourists, out of town agents. From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Market street, transfer to McAllister car. Line No. 5, and get off at Van Ness avenue. From the Ferry building take McAllister No. 5, to Van Ness avenue. San Marco Hotel: 386 Geary street. Each room with private bath. European plan, $2.50 a day and up. Cafe in connection. From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Mason street and walk two blocks north. From the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- way, passing the door. Hotel Sorrento: 364 O'Farrell street, between Mason and Taylor. All rooms with private bath. European plan, $1.50 to $2.50 a day. From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Taylor street and walk one block north. From the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- Way to Taylor street and walk one block south. Hotel Stanford: 250 Kearny street. European plan, $1.00 a day and up. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Caters to country trade. 44 Handboo}( for San Francisco From Third and To'wnsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky^ ^o. 16, passing the door. From the Ferr]) building take Third and Kentucky No. 16, passing the door. Hotel Stratford: 242 Powell street, near Geary. Euro- pean plan, 75c to $2.50 a day. Free bus, or hotel mil pay cab or taxicab charge. Hotel Stervart: 353 Geary street. European or American plan; with or without private bath. Rates, European, $1.50 a day and up; American, $3.50 a day and up. Cafe in con- nection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Bus from depots and docks at 25c a person, or From Third and Toipnsend depot take Third street car and transfer to Geary street direct to hotel. From the Ferry building take Geary Street Municipal Rail- Tvay, passing the door. Hotel Sutter: Sutter and Kearny streets. European plan, $2.00 a day and up with private bath; $1.50 a day and up without bath. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- mercial travelers. From Third and Totvnsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky y No. 16, passing the door. From the Ferry building take Sutter street car. No. 1 , 2 or 3, to Kearny street, or Hotel will pay cab or taxicab charge. Hotel Tallac: 140 Ellis street. European plan, $1.00 a day and up. From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, passing the door. From the Ferry building take any Market street car to Powell street and walk « block north to Ellis, or transfer to Ellis street car, passing the door. Some of the Hotels 45 Hotel Terminal: 60 Market street. European plan, $1.00 to $2.00 a day. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for com- mercial travelers. From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16 and trans- fer to Market street car east bound. From Ferr}^ building this hotel is within a short ivalk directh up Market street on north side. All Market street cars pass the door. Hotel Turpin: 17 Powell street. With or without private bath. European plan, $1.50 to $4.00 a day. Sample rooms for commercial travelers can be arranged. Caters to a family and commercial trade. From Third and ToTvnsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Powell street and walk half a block south. From the Ferry^ building take any Market street car to Powell street and walk half a block north. Union Square Hotel: Post and Stockton streets, overlook- ing Union Square. European or American plan. Rates, Eu- ropean, $1.00 to $2.00 a day; American, $3.00 to $4.00 a day. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial trav- elers. Bus from docks and depots at 25c a person, or From Third and Townsend depot take Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky No. 16, transfer to Sutter street car. Line No. 1 , 2 or 3, west bound, get off at Stockton street and walk one block south. From the Ferry building take Sutter street car. Line No. /, 2 or 3, get off at Stockton street and walk one block south. Hotel Victoria: Bush and Stockton streets. European or American plan. Rates, European, $1.00 to $2.50 a day; American, $3.50 to $5.00 a day. Dining room in connec- tion. Caters to a tourist and family trade. From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. 46 Handbook for San Francisco Line No. 20, transfer to Powell street, get off at Bush and TDalk one block east. From the Ferry building take Sutter street car. Line No. /, 2 or 3, to Stockton street and Tvalk one block north. Hotel Von Dorn: 242 Turk street. European or Amer- ican plan. With or without private bath. Rates, European, $1.00 to $3.00 a day; American, $2.50 to $4.50 a day. Cafe in connection. Sample rooms for commercial travelers. Caters to commercial, family and Army and Navy patrons. Free bus. TOURIST AGENCIES, VALIDATING OFFICES, INFORMATION BUREAUS, TICKET OFFICES. Addresses are given as they were in 1913. If offices have been moved, consult the telephone directory. Thos. Cook ^ Sons' office is at 689 Market street. Dunning, H. W. & Co. : Claus Spreckels building, 703 Market street, corner Third. Raymond & Whitcomb : Monadnock building, 681 Mar- ket street. Ems-Bourne Tours Co. (Ltd.) : Phelan building, 760 Market street. • Exposition Tour Co. (San Francisco) : Russ building, 235 Montgomery street. Peck-Judah Co., Inc., Free Information Bureau: 687 Market street, in the Monadnock building; offers an extremely useful free information service. Round trip tickets are validated in the office of the railroad on which the traveler leaves San Francisco. The Southern Pacific Company maintains a complete infor- mation bureau in the Ferry building, south of the main wait- ing room; another at 884 Market street, in the Flood building, Tourist Agencies, Etc. 47 and a third at the Palace Hotel. Travelers can make the two uptown offices their headquarters, and will find there writ- ing desks and stationery for their use. A full information service is maintained by the Western Pacific at the Ferry building and 665 Market street; by the Atchison, TopeJ^a & Santa Fe at its offices in the Monadnock building, and by the Northwestern Pacific at the Ferry building and at 874 Market street. Time tables of all railroad and steamship lines operating on the Pacific Coast, and rates of fare to all points on the Coast, will be found corrected monthly in the Railroad Blue Book, for sale at all news stands and on trains at 1 5 cents. Vessel movements to and from San Francisco and important coast ports, including Hawaii, are reported daily except Sun- days in The Guide, published at 2 1 5 Leidesdorff street. Most of the railroad and steamship ticket offices are grouped, at present, in the Flood building, Market and Powell streets, and vicinity; the Monadnock building, on Market near Third street, and the Palace Hotel on Market at New Montgomery. BATHS AND NATATORIA. San Francisco is well supplied with baths and swimming resorts, most of them rebuilt after the fire on well-considered plans. One of the largest and handsomest institutions of the sort is the Lurline Ocean Water Baths, in a Pompeian building at Bush and Larkin streets, accessible, by transfer, from all Mar- J^et or Sutter street cars. Here is a swimming pool 65x140 feet, supplied with filtered ocean water. There are apartments for Turkish, Russian and electric light baths. The tub rooms are fitted with fresh and salt water and with showers. Open until 10 p. m., from 6 a. m. during the months from April to October inclusive, and after 7 a. m. from November to March, inclusive. The use of 48 Handbook for San Francisco tub or natatorium is at the rate of 40 cents, or three tickets for $1 for adults. Children under 12, 20 cents. The Sutro Baths, at Point Lobos, vicinity of the Cliff House, are the largest institution of the kind in the world. They can be reached by Sutter and California line No. 1 marked ''Cliff,'' by Sutter and Clement line No. 2, McAllister No. 5, Ellis and Ocean No. 20, or b^ the California street Cable by transfer. «y r GifAAD STAUa'ASK, SUTIfU i'.ATll.S. The building is open from 7 in the morning until 1 1 at night, in summer, and in winter, from November to May, it is open until 6 p. m. There is an admittance fee of a dime for adults and five cents for children, and the bathing privileges are at the rate of 40 cents for adults or three tickets for a dollar, and 25 cents for children or five tickets for a dollar. HAMMAM OR TURKISH BATHS, open to the pub- lic are: Burns' Hammam, 229 Ellis street, between Mason and Taylor. Turkish or Russian; salt water plunge; open day Baths and Natatoria 49 and night; separate ladies' department. Baths $1.00, which includes sleeping accommodations for the night. Can be reached by Ha^es and Ellis car. Line No. 21 , on transfer from any Market street line. Sultan Baths, 624 Post street, between Taylor and Jones. Turkish or Russian ; fresh water plunge ; open day and night ; separate ladies' department. Baths $1.00, including sleeping accommodations for the night. This establishment also has regular hotel rooms at a charge of $1.00. Taf(e Montgomer}^ and Tenth street line (no number) by transfer from Market at Post and Montgomer'^; or Sixth and Sansome line tp transfer from Market at Taylor street. Empress Turkish Baths, 957 Market street, between Fifth and Sixth streets; men only; Turkish or Russian, or Nauheim medicated; salt water plunge; baths $1.00 or 6 tickets for $5.00. Includes sleeping accommodations for the night. 85 Third Street; men only; Turkish and Russian; open day and night. Baths 75c, including sleeping accommodations for the night. Kearny line No. 15, or Kentucky No. 16. James Lick Baths, 1 65 Tenth street, between Mission and Howard; tubs; for men, women and children; open daily, 12 to 6 p. m. ; Saturdays, 1 2 to 8 p. m. ; Sundays, 7:30 to 10 a. m. ; baths 1 5 cents. Montgomery and Tenth street car line (no number). Market No. 8, Valencia No. 9, Sunnyside No. 10, Tn>enty-fourth and Mission No. 11, Ingleside No. 12, Cemeteries No. 14, Ocean VieD) No. 26, Howard (no number). Alameda Baths, in Alameda. A popular open-air swim- ming resort during the season. Southern Pacific ferry to Ala- meda Pkr, and Encingl Loop lino, to Fifth street. 50 Handboof^ for San Francisco RESTAURANTS. CAFES, GRILLS. Almost everyone that has heard of San Francisco has heard of its French restaurants. They are famous among travelers cind people fond of good living, and the cuisine and service are not surpassed anyv/here. Dining out is so general that one must know the restaurants to know the city. Early conditions of prosperity established their character. Nothing was too good for the daring and successful San Franciscans of early days. There was an abun- dant food supply, and good cooks came from France and Italy. The demand for the best cookery was intensified in the sixties and seventies by the open-handed, epicurean brokers and speculators of the Comstock days. High standards then set have never been departed from, but the prices are still the lowest to be found. At some of the best San Francisco res- taurants the charge for table d'hote is from 75 cents to $L25, and this for a dinner, with wine, that could not be approached in the large Eastern cities for $3. A good dinner can be obtained for 50 cents. WHAT TO EAT. The locality has produced its peculiar delicacies. Its "cold cracked crab and beer" have been sung in nostalgic numbers by more than one exile. The crabs are a large, hard-shelled sort, of most delicate taste, found only on the Pacific Coast. California oysters, contrary to the rule in other products, are very small, about the size of a twenty-five cent piece, but their coppery savor has tickled the palate and evoked the praise of many a gourmand from Mobile, or New Orleans, or the shores of the Chesapeake, where people know oysters. The small, salty white shrimp is a tidbit of the bay waters that is highly prized. It is often served with oysters, especially in the oyster booths of the different markets, but is less abun- dant of late, owing to the prohibition of the Chinese shrimp net. Good pompano is caught near at hand, but it is not so much appreciated here as elsewhere because of competition, on the Restaurants, Cafes, Grills 51 menu, with the local "sand dab," a small, flat fish, like a sole, but daintier. When properly cooked, dry and golden "a la King," the sand dab is one of the real treasures of the sea. Mussels are a marine delicacy apt to be new to the stranger. French bread is another delight of San Francisco. It comes in long loaves of glutinous crumb and crisp golden crust, such as you find in Paris, but not elsewhere. Artichokes were early introduced by the French population, and grow in abundance, having found a peculiarly congenial climate. Every form of Italian paste is manufactured here as well as it can be made in Italy, and cooked to perfection in San Francisco's French and Italian restaurants — lasagne, tagliarini, macaroni, spaghetti, ravioli — with a sauce of stock, dried mushrooms, a soupcon of tomato and perhaps a dash of saf- fron; inimitable at home. Try the "fritto misto," the "fried mix." If one brown dainty fails to suit you, there is plenty of variety. Polenta, made of corn meal, and risotto, made of rice, with the paste sauce, are typically Italian and excellent. The climax of an Italian dinner should be a tumbler of sam- baione, or sabayone, however it may be spelled. It is a sort cf baked eggnog, made with imported Marsala wine. Squabs are not peculiar to San Francisco, but gourmands say that nobody knows what a squab can taste like until he has eaten one prepared at one of the better-class Chinese res- taurants, in Chinatown. These trifles are well to know; but the homely viand of San Franciscans of every class, except the rare dyspeptic, the material of midnight suppers for rich and poor, at home and "down town," is the modest but caloric "tamale," a sort of Mexican and Indian ambrosia of chicken and pounded corn. FRENCH RESTAURANTS. One of the famous French restaurants of the city is the "Poodle Dog," on Mason street, between Eddy and Ellis. The 52 Handbook for San Francisco "Poodle Dog" began its interesting career as a purveyor to epicures on Dupont street, near Clay, moved south to Dupont and Bush, moved again to Eddy and Mason street, and after the fire to its present location. It took its name from the poodle of the original proprietor. At the Bush and Dupont street location the "Old Poodle Dog" continued business until the fire, and this, too, was a favorite dining place. There were patrons for both, and both were excellent. The "Old Poodle Dog" merged, after the fire, with "Frank's" and "Bergez's," equally popular with discriminating diners-out, and the com- posite institution will be found at 42 I Bush street, just above Kearny, where the standards of the old places are well main- tained. New Franks, 447 Pine street, is a French restaurant of the type of the old days where the dining room is plain but the cookmg excellent. Needless to say, San Franciscans "love music with their meals" and at most of these restaurants they get it. Marchand's, another old favorite, is now conducted by Michel, an attache of the old place, at the northeast corner ot Geary and Mason street. Down Geary street, toward the Square, are Solari's and the New Delmonico, both good. A good French restaurant is the St. Germain, at 60-64 Ellis street, near the Cort Theater. The Cosmos, at 658 Mar- ket street, Borlini's, at 714 Market, and Lombardi's, at 161 Sutter, are all good. A favorite in the financial district before the fire, was Jules'. It is now in the Monadnock Building and upholds its former reputation. Then there is Blanco's, at 857 O'Farrell street, Jack's Rotisserie, at 615 Sacramento street, between Kearny and Montgomery, a good place for game; Negro's at 625 Merchant street; Felix' at 643 Montgomery, where the pastes are good and the walls are decorated with creditable paintings. Restaurants, Cafes, Grills 53 The Mint, at 61 5 Commercial street, just off Montgomery, is a snug and cosy sort of place, where a cheerful coal fire blazes on winter evenings. It is opposite the old Sub-Treasury build- ing, which stood on the site of the United States Mint in which Bret Harte held a position as secretary to the superintendent. Frank's New Restaurant, at 447 Pine street, opposite the California market serves an excellent table d'hote. The gala night life of the city surges about the brilliant cafes at the junction of Market, Eddy and Powell streets: the Portola-Louvre in the Flood building, the Odeon at the Eddy street gore, the Techau Tavern at 7 Powell street; and the Tait-Zinkand, or "Tait's", at 168 O'Farrell street, oppo- site the Orpheum. Some of these supply entertainment of the vaudeville or cabaret type. Here the sparkle and vivacity of San Francisco bubble forth after the theater and make the smaller hours the merriest. Tables for Christmas and New Year's eve celebrations must be engaged far in advance. One distinctive type of restaurant was multiplied by the fire — those claiming lineal descent from the old "Fly-Trap," or Fashion Restaurant. Before the fire there was but one, at the foot of Sutter street, a sort of French-Italian place, renowned for the moderation of its charges and the excellence of its fish and ducks. There are several now, conducted on about the same plan and scale, reproducing with fidelity the quality and service of the original. One is on the south side of Sutter street just below Montgomery. Another, Louis' Fashion, is on Market street at 524. Charley's Fashion is at the south- east corner of Ellis street and Anna Lane, and there is also a Charlie's Fly Trap at 507 Market. ITALIAN RESTAURANTS. Generally speaking there is no hard-and-fast distinction be- tween the French and Italian restaurants in the business section of the city, and either may serve the other sort of table d'hote on request. In fact the art of serving these dinners is now San Franciscan as much as Parisian or Milanese or Florentine. 54 Handbook for San Francisco In the Latin quarter, however, there is a group of restau- rants that are distinctively Itahan. They may be found along Broadway near the crossings of Kearny street and Columbus avenue. Here are the Trovatore, the New Buon Gusto, the Fior D'ltalia, and the Dante. One is apt to hear good music at the dinner hour, especially at the last named. To the epicure, the Italian dishes served at these places have no equal. Prices are moderate. At 1549 Stockton street, near Columbus avenue, is the Gianduja, one of the best Italian restaurants, where the cook- ery is especially good. Down on Davis street near the Colombo Market is an- other group of Italian restaurants, some of them of a more particular fame among nocturnal San Franciscans. The mar- ket is on Davis street, between Clark and Pacific, opposite Getz Brothers' wholesale establishment. Beside the market entrance, and at the Clark street corner, is Lucchetti's where the cook- ing is of the genuine Italian family sort, and the place itself has a flavor as pronounced. Here you get grated cheese in your soup, the pastes are good, the Bordelaise redolent of just the proper amount of garlic, the electric piano plays for a nickel-in-the-slot and sometimes tempts the patrons out on the floor for a dance between courses. For the better guidance of those that do not like such things it should be said that there is a bar in the main dining room. On the other side of the market entrance is Sanguinetti's, equally well-known. Each place has its clientele. Along Davis street, toward Market, are the Lido, another Gianduja, and several other Italian places. "Coppa's" has long held a warm place in the affections of the artist-Bohemian crowd. Before the fire it was in the southwest corner of the Montgomery block, at the corner of Montgomery and Merchant streets, where walls and ceiling were decorated with the grotesque fancies of its artist fre- quenters. You will find a good expression of the spirit of the place in Gelett Burgess' novel of San Francisco life, "The Restaurants, Cafes, Grills 55 CLIFF HOUSE AND SEAL ROCKS. Heart Line." Coppa's is now at 450 Pine street, and you may know it by the black cats painted on the bay tree boxes in front. Follow them inside and you will see astonishing art works on the walls. Another place of distinctive character is Bonini's Barn res- taurant, at 609 Washington street, just off Montgomery. A truss of hay marks the spot. Here you dine agriculturally, among mangers, under rafters from which wisps of fodder protrude, in the company of stuffed fowls which seem about to cackle over the omelets that are served by waiters in chap- erajos. Milan & Dan's at 123 Powell, is another old favorite in that neighborhood ; which is well supplied with good bakery luncheon places. High in the regard of old San Franciscans is the name of Campi's, one of the earliest Italian and French restaurants. By successive removals it has traversed the business district from Merchant and Sansome streets to the Claus Spreckels building 56 Handbook for San Francisco at Third and Market. It was founded in 1854, and still re- tains a few patrons of the early days. MEXICAN AND SPANISH RESTAURANTS. One should make the acquaintance of the Mexican res- taurants of San Francisco. It should be remembered that Mexican cookery is the cookery of the abstemious Spanish people, with Indian corn added to the larder. Here thrive the tamale, "chili con carne," frijoles, first stay of the early gold miners, and the enchilada. But be temperate with the sauce in the little oval dish. It is even redder than it looks. There are two good Mexican restaurants in the Latin quar- ter: Matias' Mexican, at 726 Broadway, and the City of Mex- ico, at 734 Broadway. A couple of Spanish restaurants in other parts of the city are, the Castilian cafe, at 344 Sutter street, between Grant avenue and Stockton, and La Madrilena, at 1 77 Eddy, near Taylor. The Creef^ Colony occupies the vicinity of Folsom street, from Third west, with its commercial part strung along the latter thoroughfare. Here are cafes and restaurants, with the signs printed in the alphabet of Xenophon; the Acropolis, the Macedonia, the Venus, the Constantinople and others. There is nothing to eat in the Greek cafes — no refreshment except tiny cups of coffee thick with the powdered berry and sweet- ened to the taste of syrup, which you sip at little marble top tables while you watch the scions of old Athenians smoking the hookah, or playing dominoes and pool. For Greek cooking and Greek wines, go to the restaurants, not the cafes. GRILLS. Some of the places known distinctively as grills achieved fame for their ducks, terrapin, crab a la Newburg, and other specialties. One of these is "John's" at 57 Ellis (formerly with Gobey). Gobey himself is dead but his widow con- ducts a grill at 1 40 Union Square avenue, the little street that Restaurants, Cafes, Grills 57 points directly at the Dewey Column, from Grant avenue between Geary and Post. Next to Gobey's is Girard's, of the same family, with a good patronage from the physicians and professional men that have offices near. The Bay State grill at 275 O'Farrell street, is good for any sort of meal. Collins & Wheeland, at 347 Montgomery street, conduct a bar and grill much frequented by brokers and professional men that have their offices in the financial center and are fond of good salads and good beef. It is one of the old institutions of the city. German grills are plentiful in San Francisco, and remark- ably good. In the lower part of town there is Schroeder's, a place for men, at 1 1 7 Front street, near California. Prices are moderate and the cooking excellent. Another is the Com- mercial restaurant, at 225 Pine. Another German cafe for men, and one at which the prices are very modest is the Hammonia, at 453 Bush street, near Grant avenue. Farther up town, for men and women, and slightly more elaborate, are Beth's, at 9 Ellis; the Heidelberg, at 37 Ellis; and the Hof- Brau, in the Pacific building at Market and Fourth streets. Then there is the grill in Herbert's Bachelor Hotel at 151-159 Powell. OYSTERS AND SHELL-FISH. For oysters and other shell-fish, including San Francisco shrimps, the clawless lobster of the coast and the delicious hard- shell crab that is found only here, there are good stalls in the larger markets, such as the California Market, on Pine street, between Montgomery and Kearny; and in the Spreckels, the Washington, the Lincoln and the Bay City, all of which are situated in Market street between Third and Sixth. The Pearl oyster house in the California Market has been a favor- ite resort with San Franciscans for two generations. Its founder is one of the proprietors of the Portola-Louvre. Mayes' Oyster House, in the Cahfornia Market has a branch at 30 Third street, and another at Sutter and Polk. 58 Handbook for San Francisco Another well-known place is the Oyster Loaf, at 55 Eddy street. Among the best restaurants making a specialty of shell-fish is Darbee & Immel's Shell-Fish Grotto, at 245 O'Farrell street. This is the only restaurant making a specialty of shell- fish dinners exclusively. BREAKFAST AND LUNCHEON. Good dinners necessitate dainty breakfasts, and San Fran- ciscans have the places that supply them. In 1876 the Vienna Model bakery opened on Kearny street with the sort of service and fare it had been giving at the Centennial exposition at Philadelphia in that year. It met with immediate success, and became a cherished institution. The name and traditions are preserved on O'Farrell street, opposite "Tait's," and near the Orpheum. At the Golden Pheasant, on Geary street near Market, one can get as fine a breakfast and luncheon as any- where in the country, for as little money. Swan's, another bakery restaurant at 140 O'Farrell street is very good. This is not to say that these places do not serve dinner. A dainty place in the shopping district is the Tea Cup, up stairs at 225 Post street, near Grant avenue. A very popular place in the lower part of town, and one where home cooking is served, is Grover's, at 121 California street. It started in a tent after the great fire. It is not open evenings. The Emporium department store on Market street, between Fourth and Fifth has a good luncheon place. So has Hale Bros., Inc., at the corner of Fifth and Market, where there is a cafeteria and a Pompeian cafe. The California Poppy, at 738 Market street, is a good place for luncheon and tea. For good service at any time of day at reasonable prices, Suhr's, at 723 Market can be recommended. For luncheon, or afternoon tea, the Women's Exchange, at 70 Post street, oppo- Restaurants, Cafes, Grills 59 site the Mechanics-Mercantile Hbrary, is good, and moderate in its charges. THE CLIFF HOUSE, AND HIRAM COOK's GRILL. The Chff House is a cafe and restaurant that is famous all over the world. It should be mentioned again that this is a res- taurant, not a hotel. And not least, but last because farthest out and more of a luxury for people that like to range abroad by trolley car or automobile, is Hiram Cook's Grill and Buffet, on Nineteenth avenue between Vicente and Wawona streets, in the Parkside district. The fashionable life of the city can be seen at luncheon or dinner at the St. Francis or the Palace Hotel. At the former afternoon tea is served in the Tapestry Room, and at the latter in the large court. WALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. /. — An Hour's Walk in the Downtown District — The Stock Exchange. From Lotta's Fountain, at the junction of Market, Kearny and Third streets, where flowers are sold in the open air the >ear around and the Christmas eve outdoor music festivals are held, walk north three blocks to Bush. Almost at the beginning, at 50 Kearny street, you come to one of the show-places of the city — the Diamond Palace of Col. Andrews. The show window displays examples of the quartz jewelry that appealed to the San Franciscans of an early day. Within, it is a place of mirrors endlessly reflecting the splendors of white Corinthian columns and crystal chan- deliers, and of paintings of the dazzling figures of history and the Old Testament. Overhead is a portrait of the Colonel himself, one of the most picturesque of pioneer San Franciscans. 60 Handbook for San Francisco Walk eastward down Bush street, here the third street from Market. About the center of the block, on the south side, at No. 353 Bush, you come to the San Francisco StocJ^ Exchange. This is the leading mining stock bourse of the world, the institution through which was transacted more busi- ness, in the days of the Comstock mining excitement, than on any other exchange at that time. Its home here is temporary, built on a leasehold to serve immediate necessity after the fire of 1906. You may enter the "visitors' gallery" railed off for clients, back of the main floor where the trading is done. The brokers have a youthful appearance, but here and there among them you will see the gray head of an old-timer, who remembers the world-famous deals of the "Seventies" and expects more like them "when the water is pumped out of the Comstock and the workings are opened down to the three-thousand foot level." The exchange was organized in 1 862. As much as $43,000 was bid for a seat in 1875, with no seller. The Comstock lode itself lies along the eastern side of Mt. Davidson, in the Washoe range, Nevada, for a distance of about two miles. On the quotation board you can read the principal names of the underground hoards — Ophir, Gould & Curry, Con. Virginia, California, Kentuck, Mexican, Savage, Best & Belcher, Hale & Norcross, Crown Point, Potosi, Yellow Jacket, Chollar ; hoards that produced mogul's ransoms, names that conjured across the continent and across the ocean some of the most adventurous men the nineteenth century produced. Such a scene as this was the stage of one of the golden romances of California, and the focus of interest for the mighty figures that stalked through it; such men as James R. Keene, a dominant figure in Wall street during these later years and until his death in January, 1913; Flood & O'Brien, "Lucky" Baldwin, John P. Jones and William M. Stewart M; An Hour's Walk Down Town of Nevada, George Hearst, Mark McDonald, Alvinza Hay- ward, William Sharon, John W. Mackay, James G. Fair, George I. Ives. Jones, Stewart, } (earst, Sharon and Fair became United States senators. Th( e men were giants, and the tradition of them remains as a vital part of the conscious- ness of San Francisco, a thing that helps give it, as a city, a feeling of individuality and distinction. There is still much trading in Comstocks, and to it has been added the operations in Southern Nevada shares — Gold- field, Tonopah, Manhattan, Bullfrog — and a consolidation has recently been effected with the oil exchange, so that a quite considerable business is focussed at this point. There are three regular sessions and one long informal session a day. The mining session opens at 9:30 a. m., and is followed by informal trading that may continue until 2:15. The oil board sessions open at 11:15 a. m., and 1:15 p. m. The caller is Joseph L. King, chairman of the board and author of a live- ly history of it. Looking down Bush street, one sees at the corner of Mont- gomery the Mills building, an office building erected by the late D. O. Mills. A block beyond, at the northwest corner of Sansome, is the building of the Standard Oil Company of California, in which are housed all the general offices of the corporation. If you were to follow this block around you would come to the site of the new United States Sub-Treasury^ building, at the southwest corner of Pine and Sansome street, which will cost, complete, $834,300, and with equipment will probably come to $1,000,000. Retrace your steps on Bush street and continue westward to Grant avenue, passing "Bergez, Frank's, Old Poodle Dog, one of the famous French restaurants of San Francisco. At the corner of Grant avenue you can look up to the right and see the pagoda-like ornamentation on the buildings at the en- trance to Chinatown, which we shall leave for another one of these "walks." 62 Handbook for San Francisco For the present, turn southward (towards Market street). On the right hand side of Grant avenue is the book ^hop of Paul Elder, a place of distinction. The interior is simply and harmoniously Gothic, sc craftily planned and consistently exe- cuted that it conveys an irresistible spell of medievalism. This is the neighborhood of fine jewelry stores, fur stores that offer furs as fine as any to be found in London, galleries of interesting paintings, which the public is welcome to visit. Union Square is just beyond, a palm garden set in the midst of hotels and smart shops. Its east line is Stockton street, and down about half way of the square, at the corner of the nar- now street called Union Square avenue, is A. M. Robertson s book store, notable for its varied stock which the owner is con- tinually enriching by his own publications of such writers as Ambrose Bierce, Herman Scheffauer and George Sterling. This publisher has probably done more to make California authors and Western literature known than any other one man. On the west side of the Square, occupying the site of old Calvary Presbyterian church, is the Hotel St. Francis, equal in appointment and service to any hotel in the world. The Deive}) monument rises in the center of Union Square, commemorating the victory of Manila Bay. Looking down Sutter to the right, one sees the Pacific Cas & Electric Company's building, decorated with a large map of the Central California counties, in 30 of which this San Fran- cisco enterprise serves over 32 1 ,000 people with water, gas, and electricity for light and power. Across Sutter street is the Temple Emanu El, the city's oldest Jewish house of worship, the beautiful architecture of which is famous, with the turrets that were surmounted, before the fire of 1906, with those graceful Oriental domes that became a sort of insignia of San Francisco. Adjoining the synagogue on the south is the first site of the Tivoli Opera House — the Tivoli Gar- dens of old. Westward on Sutter is one of the handsome art stores of the city, that of Vickery, Atkins & Torrey. An Hour's Walk Down Town 63 It would be a pity for any one that has a feeling for beau- tiful design and fine specimens of craftsman skill to leave San Francisco without having seen this shop. Thence, westward to Mason street. Beyond is a part of the burned district formerly occupied by old time dwellings and INTERIOR OF A SAN FRANCISCO RETAIL STORE. a few modern hotels, now rapidly rebuilding to hotels and apartment houses and destined to be the most densely popu- lated part of San Francisco. Turn down Mason toward Market. At Post is the First Congregational church. Looking up Post one can see on the right the brown brick building of the O/ijmp/c Club^ the oldest amateur athletic organization in the world, and one of the finest clubs in San Francisco. More about it can be found through the index. 64 Handbook for San Francisco Next beyond the Olympic is the red brick building of an- other famous San Francisco Club, the Bohemian. Southward on Mason street one comes to the building known as N. S. G. W. Hall — the headquarters for the Native Sons of the Golden West, a fraternal and benevolent organiza- tion formed among the native born sons of California to pre- serve the traditions of the pioneers and the spirit of state patriotism. At the corner of Geary and Mason streets is "Marchand's," one of the celebrated French restaurants of the city. To your right, on Geary street is the Columbia theater, noteworthy for its colorful facade. The large buildings which you see beyond, at the corner of Taylor street, are the Clift and Bellevue hotels, among the finest in the city. Farther down Mason street, on the west side between Ellis and Eddy, is the famous Poodle Dog restaurant. Continuing on Mason street toward Market, one sees, down Eddy street to the left, the new Tivoli Opera House, standing on the site it occupied for many years when it was the fore- most home of opera bouffe in the United States, and where sym- phonies and grand opera were produced as well. It was at the Tivoli that San Francisco audiences "discovered" the voice and art of Luisa Tetrazzini and proclaimed to the world a new operatic star. At the foot of Mason street, on Market, is the "Native Sons" fountain, with the romantic figure of the youthful pio- neer, "dedicated to the Native Sons of the Golden West, to commemorate the admission of California into the Union, Sep- tember the ninth. Anno Domini MDCCCL." Turn down Market toward the Ferry and you will be in the main stream of the city's life. Here, from Mason to Kearny streets, is the thickest of the traffic, on the sidewalk and in the roadway. Between these imposing Market street buildings the street is 120 feet wide. An Hour's Walk Down Town 65 On the other side of the street, at the corner of Powell, is a stately pile of grey sandstone built some time before the fire on the site of the old Baldwin hotel, by James L. Flood, son of James C. Flood, the great mining operator of the Comstock. It is the largest office building west of Chicago and contains over 900 rooms. Here, at Market and Powell, is the center of the city's night life. The whole neighborhood, from seven o'clock on, blazes with lights and swarms with automobiles and pleasure seekers. This is a street of large buildings and of department stores, such as Prager's, Hale's and the Emporium. The green-tiled Pacific building, at the corner of Fourth street, is the largest reinforced concrete office building in the world. (The Com- mercial building next to it stands on the site of the old Acad- emy of Sciences.) On the north side of Market street, near Montgomery, one of San Francisco's landmarks, the Hobart building, is to be rebuilt during 1914, filling the last big gap in lower Market street created by the fire of 1 906. Of pressed brick front and terra cotta and granite trimmings, the structure will rise for twenty-one stories, or a total of 3 1 5 feet. It will have a front- age of 92 feet 5 1 -8 inches and the ground floor will be arranged in attractive stores. One million dollars is the estimated cost. Next is the Humboldt Savings Bank building, 18 stories and 245 feet high. Farther down the street, at the corner of Third street. Newspaper Square, is the Claus Spreckds build- ing, one of the most beautiful commercial buildings in the world, 1 9 stories, counting the dome, and 3 1 5 feet high. A few more steps brings us to Lotta's Fountain, and News- paper Square. This round can be made in an hour if you do not linger — which you are quite likely to do. SOME TALL BUILDINGS IN SAN FRANCISCO. Hobart Building, Market below Montgomery; 21 Stories. Height, 315 ft. Humboldt Savings Bank Bldg., 783 Market; 18 Stories. '* 245 " Claus Spreckels Building, Market and Third; 19 Stories. " 315 66 HandbooJ^ for San Francisco ENTRANCE TO CHINATOWN. A Walk in Chinatown 67 Hearst Building, Market, Third and Kearny; 12 Stories. Height, 163 ft. Mutual Savings Bank Bldg., 706 Market; 12 Stories. " 190 " Chronicle Building, Market and Kearny; 17 Stories. " 219 ** Merchants' Exchange Bldg., 431 California; 14 Stories. " 200 ** Insurance Ex. Bldg., Cal. & Leidesdorff; 11 Stories. " 167 " WALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. //. — Chinatoipn. Situated between Kearny and Stockton, California and Pacific Streets. Kearny Line No. 15, or Kentucky No. 16, to California Street and walk ^ block Ti)est to Grant avenue; or California street cable or Sacramento street cable, to Grant avenue. Easily reached afoot from the downtown hotel district. You can "do" Chinatown by automobile, taxicab, or one of the sight-seeing motor cars that start from Market street west of Newspaper Square every evening at 8 o'clock. These cars furnish guides and charge a dollar a passenger. But the best way to see and enjoy it is to prowl through it afoot. You could spend all the working days of a month going up and down its swarming streets and choked alleys, won- dering at the inscrutable denizens and their little moon-faced children, listening to the sing-song language, smelling the reek of leeks, punk and incense, until you acquired unconsciously the habit of looking on yourself and other strayed Caucasians as foreigners, and still but scratch the surface of interest in this most fascinating city of America. For Chinatown is a city, of and by and for itself. There is nothing like it in any other part of the country, although they may have the recipe for chop suey elsewhere. There can not be anything like it in China, for it is at least encysted in a Caucasian social tissue. It is and always will be San Francisco's Chinatown, unique and outlandish, a foreign coun- try of ten city squares, supposed to be a part of Canton, or a part of Tartary, as you please; living its own customs, 68 Handbook for San Francisco rites and practices, modified by the white man's laws as far as the United States Marshal's office and the "Chinatown Squad" from the Hall of Justice are able to put them into effect. Yet those will not find the main interest in Chinatown that persist in regarding it as a weird and horrible slum. It is not. Between eight and nine thousand Oriental people live within the few blocks of the district, almost no whites dwelling among them, and while they exhibit racial peculiarities that bewilder the western mind, it is safe to say that the percentage of the law-abiding is as high here as in many other parts of the city. Avoiding trouble is a Chinese national habit, and nowhere is the white visitor more secure in property or person. Chinatown has changed, both in its "physical plant" and customs. For half a century its tenants built and burrowed in it, shaping it to their uses, until it was a strange place, full of mystery and surprise, with picturesque curbstone in- dustries and sidewalk stalls, and communicating catacombs where half its population huddled, and axe-proof doors be- hind which some of them carried on the allied industries of pi-gow, fan-tan, poker and lottery drawings. These conditions have largely altered for the better. The fire burned out the quarter; and the unsanitary hovels with their strata of accumulated fillh, cell-like chambers, wander- ing galleries and sidewalk encroachments disappeared. When Chinatown rebuilt it was on modern, sanitary lines and ac- cording to the most approved city ordinances. THE CHINESE TRANSITION. The people, too, have changed. Just now they present the anomalies of transition from eastern to what they conceive to be western ways. It is the day of the Republic. The Manchus are gone from the throne of the Middle Kingdom. The Dragon Flag has disappeared from Chinatown and so have the queues that once hung, a sign of Manchu domination, down the backs of its merchants, bankers, pawn brokers, clam A Walk in Chinatown 69 dealers, rag pickers, down to the humblest male resident. The comfortable and dignified Chinese dress is vanishing. Even the tong wars grow beautifully less, and the hatchet-men that carried them on are growing scarce, and hard to hire ; these very tong wars, by the way, being unknown in China, and a peculiar reaction from conditions in this country. The writer has been in a Chinese home in Grant avenue, where the girls and women of the household were absorbed in the preparation of the beautiful little stage sets used for the feminist feast of the Seven Sisters — the Chinese myth ot the Pleiades — pagan, and possibly as ancient as the Book of Job — and he has gone thence directly into another Chinese home, behind barred doors above dark flights of stairs, where the names of the daughters of the household were engrossed on grammar school certificates hanging on the walls, and the oaken bookcase contained such volumes as "West's Ancient World," a source-book of English history, and a copy ol Bryant's translation of the Odyssey. In the history of the Chinese revolution, San Francisco should loom large as a factor. When the death of Tsi Ann weak- ened the Manchu tyranny, these San Francisco Cantonese had been living for three generations in contact with a virile western civilization, and were able to testify to their home-keep- ing countrymen that China's institutions were not built above the summit of human intelligence, and possibly could be improved. Here Dr. Sun Yat Sen was given asylum ten years ago, and the movement received organized support. Here was estab- lished the Chinese Republic Association, one of the most pow- erful influences outside of China in bringing about the down- fall of the Manchus. Some old customs have been modified, but much remains. The principal festivals are still kept. These people have a genius for elaborate decoration, which finds no field in the Spartan bareness of their homes, but blossoms out in vivid color and fantastic ornament to make their ceremonies a delight. With their huge processional dragon (now in Golden Gate 70 Handboof( for San Francisco Park Museum), their beautiful umbrella-shaped standards, their saffron flags and their traveling tableaux and floats, they have made the Portola parades of San Francisco a wonder that could be seen nowhere else on the continent. If you are lucky in the hour of your wandering, you may see a funeral or hear a wedding — and the weddings are easy to hear, for part of the ceremony consists in paying out a cable of fire-crackers from the second story balcony of some res- taurant, and letting the dangling end burn off about a foot above the curb, with frequent discharges of bamboo-wound bombs. If the bridegroom is sufficiently prosperous the din may last until long after midnight. Funerals take their ancient way, with the exception of a "young Chinese band" at the head, playing European dirges. Follows a cab-full of the real old Chinese music, with deaf- ening crashes of great brass cymbals, squealing trumpets, and mad banging of a gong slung from the roof of the hack. Then the hearse, and on the seat beside the white driver a Chinese that throws to the breeze small oblong pieces of tissue paper with perforations through which the pursuing demons must crawl and thus be heavily handicapped. Directly behind the hearse comes the black figure of a Taoist priest, performing on cymbals decorated with a fluttering ban- neret. He precedes the widow, who walks in white, the Chinese mourning color, bowed double with grief, face hidden, and supported by two sad-faced sisters in black. They are hired to look sad, and they give good value for the money. Next a block of hired mourners: women in blue gowns and pantaloons, with their heads hidden in white cowls. More cabs, full of relatives and friends, gongs and cymbals; and, finally, an express wagon loaded with paper effigies of serv- ants for the departed, to be burned at the cemetery, and the funeral baked meats for his subsistence as he starts on his long journey; roast pig, crawfish, chicken and other favorite viands. All Grant avenue turns out to see, and the balconies of the side streets are thronged. The comment is apparently dis- A Walk in Chinaiorvn 71 criminating and critical, and as a topic of discussion the epi- sode lasts the afternoon. AMONG THE BAZAARS. A conspicuous fact about Chinatown is that it consists, on the street level at least, almost wholly of shops. The mer- chant class predominates, and it practices a rigid and unde- viating commercial honesty. What a Chinese merchant prom- ises he performs. The main axis of the quarter is old Dupont street, now Grant avenue. Near Market this is one of the finest Ameri- can retail shopping thoroughfares in the city, but beginning at Pine street you find yourself among Japanese stores, which carry handsome and costly stocks of silks, prints, bronzes and porcelains; and at California you enter the group of pagoda- roofed buildings that house the finer Chinese bazaars and form the entrance to the Chinese quarter. Here are the beautiful establishments of the Sing Fat Company, the Sing Chong Company, the Canton and the Shanghai bazaars, the Nanking Fook Woh Company, the Wing Sing Loong Yokohama Com- pany, the W. Sang Lung Company, of Chee Chong & Co., and Yuen Lee & Co. Millions are invested in the stocks of these establishments, and they attract visitors from all over the world. You will not find such collections of Chinese art wares in any other city, in or out of China. The names of these bazaars are not, usually, the names of their proprietors, but expressions of poetic sentiment or invo- cations of fortune. In the most modest of them you may find the oriental treasure bit that makes the strongest appeal to you and at the smallest price. The Chinese attendants are uniformly courteous, and whether you buy or not you are welcome to admire and enjoy the wonder-works in silver, bronze, enamel, lacquer, teak, rosewood, porcelain, carven ivory and sumptuously embroidered silks. Along this street are some good Chinese restaurants, with recessed balconies where huge globular lanterns bob in the 11 Handboof( fcr San Francisco breeze, and with "tea gardens" on the top floors, where one can dine upon dishes of the toothsome Chinese cuisine. Preserves and tea are served at modest rates; and, on a day's notice, almost any of these places will arrange dinners at prices rang- ing from $2 to $20 a cover, that will include such delicacies as birds' nest soup, snow fungus, shark fins, "chop suey," THE NEW YEAR LIIJKS. "chow yuk," squab, bamboo shoots, almond pudding; chicken, pork and noodles served in the various oriental modes, ac- companied by plum and pear wines, and beginning, always, with dessert. Chinese orchestras can be engaged to accom- pany the feast. Live fish are imported in tanks from China for banquets here. At the north corner of Clay street is one of the deadwalls used as a bulletin board. Here advertisements and notices of all sorts, in black Chinese characters on the universal red A Walk in Chinatorvn 73 ground, are posted, and here eager knots of men can be seen gleaning the news of the day. No people is more keen for news and the little community supports four daily papers printed in the Cantonese dialect. Butcher shops, grocery and drug stores along this medieval, looking street present curious sights — dried roots and herbs, jars of sea-horse skeletons, dejected ducks flattened out and varnished, and hung up to tempt the epicure, gobbets of pork from which the butcher hacks a cat-meat cut for his frugal patron. Note, on the counters of the merchants, the abacus, the primitive adding machine, old as the Pyramids and still in use among these conservatives. On the south side of Washington street, below Grant ave- nue, in the pretty little curly-cornered and green-tiled Oriental building next the corner, is the Chinatown exchange of the Pacific Telephone and Telegraph Company. The manager, Mr. Lo Kum Shu, is a Chinese. The operators are Chinese girls, and their employment here is in itself an anomaly, for Chinese women are not supposed to work for wages. Hence the screens at their backs, protecting them, ceremonially at least, from observation. One can, however, peek through the glass door, and see that in addition to bemg clad in fetching Oriental costumes, they are incredibly quick and skillful with the plugs. They are almost perfectly ambidextrous, working equally well with either hand. In addition, the telephone offi- cials inform us, they are gifted with wonderfully clear and tenacious memories. There are over 1 200 Chinese telephone subscribers in Chinatown, and these girls respond all day with hardly a mistake to calls that are given by the name of the subscriber instead of by his number — a mental feat that would be practically impossible to most high-schooled American misses. Up Jackson street from Grant avenue are several manufac- turing jewelers' shops, where the jewelers and gold-carvers 74 Handboo}( for San Francisco can be seen at work making bracelets and rings and setting jade ornaments. On the left, as you go westward, is the entrance to historic Ross a//e\j, once lined with gambling places, where the lookout in the dingy vestibule could close a dozen iron- clad doors with a single word; now an innocent-looking place where wholesale merchants sit in dim little counting houses and reckon their profits on importations of Chinese ware. Occasionally at night groups of Chinese can be seen in these stores, behmd screens that hide them from the shoulders down. No doubt they are gambling; but neither you nor any other white man will get near enough to see, and swear to, the layout and the money. Returning southward through Ross Alley you emerge on Washington street, from the opposite side of which Waverly Place opens on the left and Spofford Alley on the right. There is a modest sort of Joss house in Spofford Alley. Waverly Place, two blocks long, contains many of the buildings and meeting places of the "tongs" or Chinese mutual benevolent associations. A JOSS HOUSE. At 125 Waverly Place is the building of the Sue Hing Benevolent Association, its upper story a Joss house and one of the finest in the quarter. This word "Joss," by the way, is the Chinese corruption of the Portuguese "Deos, ' meaning God, which the Chinese first heard at the Portuguese trading port of Macao; so that a "Joss house" is, literally, a House of God. The Chinese worship individually, never in con- gregations. This Joss house is the Temple of the Queen of Heaven^ sumptuous with gilded carvings and enameled urns, vivid with the colors of paper-flower work, and of banners and standards borne in processions and public fetes. It opens at the east end, with the altar facing west, as all proper Joss houses do. A small purchase of incense or punk sticks or a chunk of sandalwood acts as an admittance fee. Within the ornate shrine sits the lady herself, the god of War A Walk in Chinatown 75 on her right and of Wealth on her left. There is another shrine on the left that is devoted to feminine worship, but the main one is for the men. Standing in rails to north and south are the silver standards of the gods in battle. The vv^alls bear tall inscriptions from sacred writings, on gilded backgrounds, donated by wealthy communicants, and corresponding roughly to our memorial windows. The drum and gong at the north side open and conclude the devotions. On the table before the main shrine is a cylindrical bamboo box full of splints, with what we should call "fortunes" written on them. By shaking the box properly, the supplicant can make one splint emerge, and thus obtain oracular pro- nouncement on his affairs. If necessary he can even shake out a medical prescription. Near at hand is a pair of blocks made from bamboo root, shaped like halves of a crookqd cucumber and red on the rounded sides. These are used for divination, and in function are said to be identical with the Urim and Thummim of the ancient Hebrews. After kneeling with his back to the Lady, the searcher after celestial life raises them three times above his head, kow-towing to the east, and then throws them on the floor, when, if they fall different sides up, he is sure his prayer will be answered or his venture succeed ; if they fall red sides up, he may chance the doubtful enterprise; but if they fall flat sides up, the signal is set against him, and he re- peats his orisons, throwing the blocks again and again, until they fall to suit him — believing, as we all are prone to do, in the omens that he makes himself. Running almost across the room is a large table with cast tin urns on it. This is a sort of altar, of which more when we reach the next Joss house. Follow Waverly Place through to Clay street and turn up-hill to Stockton. The Chinese Consulate General is at the southeast corner of Clay and Stockton. To the right, at 915, is the shop of Num Sing, the lantern maker, whose great bub- bles of tinted light grace the balconies of homes and restaurants. South of Clay street, at 843 Stockton, in the building with 76 Handbook for San Francisco the blue enameled vestibule, is the conclave hall of the Six Companies, Chung Wah Woey Kwoon, the Chinese Consoli- dated Benevolent Association. This is the most influential organization in the Chinese community, the power that dis- penses the higher and the lower justice, sitting as a court of arbitration in trade disputes and doing equity among the Fami- lies and the Tongs. Visitors may enter if the door is open. The place is handsomely appointed, with colored glass screens and gilded grills, carved teak chairs with marblestone backs, a long council table and a row of seven seats where sit the presidents of the Six Companies, with a place of honor for the Consul General. From the meeting place of the Six Companies, continue southward to Sacramento street. Up the hill, at 920 Sacra- mento, is an institution known all over the United States for the invaluable work it has done in behalf of unfortunate Chi- nese girls and women: the Woman's Occidental Board of For- eign Missions. In April, 1913, it celebrated the fortieth anniversary of its founding. Many a romance has been writ- ten and many another will be about the helping hand and pro- tecting care given otherwise helpless human chattels by its heroic superintendent. Miss D. M. Cameron. The mission house contains dormitories, kitchens, dining rooms, a fine assembly hall, and two school rooms for a pri- mary school and seminary, where Chinese girls are educated. It has been a home for hundreds of unfortunates that had no other, and here they have received not merely *'book learning" but practical domestic training until they have become fitted for marriage and the duties of their own households. Of late the mission has become so rooted in the life of Chinatown and has gained such a degree of confidence among the Oriental population that Chinese merchants are beginning to send their daughters to it for tuition, especially when the girls are motherless. As you pass down Grant avenue on the north side it will be interesting to turn north a few steps on Waverly Place A Walk in Chinatown 77 Ic No. 1 8, the composing room of the Chinese Free Press. Here you can look through the windows and see Chinese compositors setting up a Chinese newspaper. Instead of twenty-six letters and some punctuation, the Chinese type font must contain over four thousand ideographic characters, each representing a complete word. As a result, the cases are huge affairs, taller than a man and twelve or fourteen feet long, and among them the compositors weave about in a solemn and soft-footed sort of lancers or quadrille, picking out a char- acter here, and another in the next case, and another across the room. With such a system of literation, type-writers are impossible and a linotype keyboard would look like an acre of lettuce. White visitors are not encouraged to enter the composing rooms of any of the Chinese dailies, the type being too val- uable and the Christian souvenir hunter's morality too frail. Leaving Waverly Place, follow Sacramento street down to Grant avenue, and cut across St. Mary's Square, southeasterly, to Pine street. At Pine is the imposing entrance to the prop- erty of the Kong Chow Friendly Society and the Temple of Quan Dai, a larger Joss house than the Temple of the Queen of Heaven, and in some particulars more interesting. These two are the leading Joss houses in San Francisco, and owing to changing faiths and ideas, no more are likely to be built. At the entrance you pass around a screen formed by two swing doors, with pictures of ancient warriors: men-at-arms of the god, and guardians of his temple. The screen is found similarly placed in all orthodox buildings in China, even in dwellings. It does not form much of an obstruction to men, who can walk as crookedly as necessary, but is baffling to devils, whose well-known habit it is to make a rush in a straight line whenever the door is opened, and who bump their heads on the screen and retire in dismay. On the walls of the high-ceiled entrance hall are vermilion slips of paper, bearing the names of members of the congre- gation and the sums they have subscribed to the upkeep of 78 Handbook for San Francisco IN THE TEMPLE OF QUAN DAI. the place; the largest subscriptions at the top. A door opens into a handsome court with a fountain at the east side, just under a huge red disk like the face of the sun painted on the wall. The stairs leading to the Joss house on the top floor start from the left-hand door; the main entrance, and the door at the right, open into chapels devoted to a simpler sort of an- cestor worship. A considerable area of valuable real estate has been devoted to courtyard space in order to orient the building. A CHINESE DEITY. Quan Dai was a great warrior of some two thousand years ago, raised to high station by his emperor and deified after death for his nobility of character and many virtues. He is the tutelary deity of the Kong Chow association, and here his effigy is enshrined in a jungle of gilded carvings, hung with green embroidered curtains and bedecked with peacock feathers for luck. He is supported by two smaller figures, and before A Walk in Chinatown 79 him are three lesser deities personifying the natural elements. The shrine carvings represent Chinese myths and highly ethical teachings; and the delicate handiwork, executed in China, well repays close scrutiny, for in depth and intricacy, and vigor cf treatment, it equals some of the best Swiss output. The offering of tea, on the litde inlaid teak table before the god, is replaced afresh every morning by the temple keeper, when he lights the taper in peanut oil on the altar and sets the punk sticks smouldering in the big bronze urn. Always three punk sticks are offered at a time, representing the Chi- nese trinity of Earth, Heaven and Man. These things are not done in adoration of the god himself so much as in exaltation of the virtues he exemplifies. To the right of the shrine as you face it, is Quan Dai's faith- ful warhorse, about six hands high and of extraordinary "points." On the left is represented his battle lance. Beside it is the drum and bell with which the worshipper announces himself, and which, his devotions over, he strikes to indicate that it is finished, and to bid the god goodby. Before the shrine, a richly-wrought lantern hangs, with a light that burns unceasingly, teaching that devotion must not be an intermittent "Sunday piety," but a consistent and con- tinuous state of mind. The standards of the god and his followers are reproduced here in wood, and with them are the bamboo helmets of an- cient times. Golden scrolls adorn the side walls, given by members of the society and bearing eulogies of the god. Over- head hang other writings on handsome teak and ebony boards. Some testify to the rectitude of the temple management and others express the most exalted philosophical concepts. In reading the Chinese characters, always begin at the right. Back of the altar is a space for the religious exercises of the communicant. Here he prays, and here he casts the divin- ing blocks for answer to his prayers. Here also are the oracle sticks in their bamboo box. Behind this space is the Heung On Toi, or table of the Heung On; five tall vase-like objects 80 Handbook for San Francisco of cast tin decorated with small enameled pictures. The outer two are for compositions of paper flowers, extraordinary in their color and perfection of detail. The inner two are for candles, as on the altar of a Christian church. The central one is for incense. The outer half of the table carries bronze vases for in- cense and punk. At present one of them holds a tall stick of sandal wood, thick as a man's wrist, with the name of the donor pasted on it, and from this sweet-smelling bough a chip is whittled to be burned as occasion requires. On a carved teak stand is a contorted root of sandal wood, giving out the faint perfume the Chinese love. More gilded carvings line the front of this table, under glass and wire screen, for these are very costly. In the upper corners are some fine representations of submarine scenes — crustaceans and fish, amid weird sea plants. The lower tier of carvings is a fairy-land of Chinese myth. There are two small shrines in the eastern corners, shelter- ing smaller gods of fortune and guardians of the east portal, who also seem to act as agents for the collection of celestial dues, one of them receiving the offerings and the other handing them up. The furnace for the burnt offerings of this temple is in the small chamber to the north, opening from the east end. Here gold and silver paper are burned by the devotee in the expecta- tion that the god will transmute them into the real thing and return them an hundred fold. On the birthday of the god, sacrifices of pork, chicken and fish are brought to his shrine and then taken home and eaten. Some bring them at the beginning of the year, seeking favors; and some at the year's end, in gratitude for the blessings they have received. FESTIVALS. The beginning of the A^en; Year is the great Chinese festival. It is everybody's birthday. Mercantile accounts are squared. A Walk in Chinatown 81 and the papers canceled in the temple furnaces. For six weeks before, the lily bulbs, set in stones and water, have been nursed in sun and shade to bring the lucky blooms at just the proper date. Beginning in the afternoon, fire-crackers scold the old year out and hail the new year in. The cymbals and the tom-toms resound. In stores and households, the odors of sacrifice are offered to the gods and the substance is feasted on by men. There is universal congratulation, offered at tea parties and social calls, with much munching of cakes and melon seeds and sweetmeats. The children are dressed in their best. At no other time does the quarter exhibit such smiling amiability and general good-will. Everybody feels so good the drug stores close their doors, for no one could need drugs at such a time, and besides, it is a bad way to begin the year; and if any one does need them the medicaments are handed out surreptitiously, wrapped in joyous red paper in- stead of the usual white, to conciliate the spirit of the occa- sion. The festivities last a week, ending with "Man's Day" when all conventional restraints are off and every one enjoys himself as he likes. This is a good time to visit Chinatown. From the best information obtainable at present, the date, which used to fall in February under the Empire, will be made to coincide with ours, though how they will make their lilies bloom then, is a question for some Chinese Burbank. The festival of the Seven Sisters occurs about the middle of August. You may see a rough lumber balcony erected across the south end of Ross Alley, with the little figures and scenes displayed on it. Formerly it was the occasion of rivalry among the girls of different families to see which could pro- duce the most beautiful miniature dragon, and one year the prize was won by a large and vigorous cockroach trigged out with melon seeds. A little later, on the fifteenth of the eighth month, occurs the Moon F^aU, when mooji-?haped cakes are baked in quantity. 82 Handboof^ for San Francisco Joss papers are scattered abroad, and the moon is worshipped with the most beautiful creations of the lantern makers swung from windows and balconies. Toward the end of the year occurs the Seew Yee, or sac- rifice of clothing; but it is only burned in paper effigy, includ- ing representations cf the chests in which it is kept, and with YOUNG CHINA. the canny purpose of getting back fresh apparel from the gods. The burning is likely to occur in Spofford or Ross Alley, unless, with their altered political mstitutions, our Oriental neighbors think it necessary to change their ancient rites in this respect. The guides take tourists to a few show places we have not attempted to describe, like the home of the Singing Children, where four little tykes sing such Oriental arias as "Jungle Town" and "I'd Leave My Happy Home for You." We have heard them better rendered. Then there is the old Chine$e A Walk Along the Water Front 83 musician who lives in a cellar, and plays the Chinese zither, flute, mandolin, snake-skin banjo and two-stringed fiddle; exe- cuting ''Marching Through Georgia" and other classics. But one can not satisfy his interest in one visit to any two or twenty definite points. It is the community life that must be sensed, the hundred variations of practice, habit and custom, manners and art, to make the thing really enjoyable. WALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. ///. — The Water Front and Telegraph Hill. To those who delight in scenes that wake the imagination, a morning's tramp along the water front, with a good, breath- ing finish up Telegraph Hill, will be a source of keen delight. Top it with a luncheon at a Latin Quarter restaurant and you will begin to get the flavor of San Francisco. Take the Third street cars anywhere along Kearny or Third street, or by transfer from any Market street car, and get off at Berry, two blocks below the Southern Pacific depot. As you ride down this street, remember that every brick and girder of every building (except at the corner of Mission where one steel structure survived) is new construction since the great fire. Steel frame and brick structures were left standing, but "improvements" on Third street and neighboring thorough- fares built, of old, in wood, were mowed down to their gaping cellars. Leaving the car where it turns southwestward into Berry street, walk down to the big bascule bridge with the Santa Fe sign on it, across the "Channel." The Channel is an ancient slough, once connected with Mission creek, now given over mainly to the receipt of lumber. Go back to Townsend street and follow it northeasterly to the Embarcadero. On the way, at the corner of Townsend and Second streets, is a handsome concrete building with four 84 Handbook for San Francisco tall stacks that typifies the enterprise, energy and efficiency of the new San Francisco. This is Pumping Station No. I of the Auxiliary High Pressure Fire Protection System. The entrance is around the corner, on Second street, and the public is admitted to the little gallery overlooking the gigantic water tube boilers and the turbine pumps and engines. The other salt water pumping station is across the city at Black Point. Second street will take you southeast to the Mail DocJ^s. Here you will catch a glimpse of the great business that is done upon the waters by some of the few remaining Ameri- can ships in the foreign trade; see the silks, tea, mattings and rice and tin from the Orient coming ashore in big slings and being put aboard trains, and the cotton, hardware and other home commodities going back to pay for it. From this point to Quarantine, by way of the Embarcadero, it is a good three miles along "the front," and every step is full of interest. Here you will note the ebb and flow of that abundant traffic with far lands and strange places which has given San Francisco much of its romance and its charm, and has made the modern city possible. The Water front is rough, alcoholic and unpretty, but it swarms with men of brawn and nerve, rovers with the scope and vision of the broad Pacific in their brains, from cocoanut islands in southern waters to the treaty ports of China, and the Arctic ice where they hunt the few remaining whales. The whole run of it reeks with briny adventure. It furnished Stev- enson with the atmosphere of the "Wrecker," Frank Norris with the theme of "Moran of the Lady Letty," Jack London with his seal poacher, the "Sea Wolf," and Gelett Burgess and Wallace Irwin with the plots and counter-plots of the "Pica- roon." San Francisco is particularly fortunate in the fact that its docks are not privately owned, but are administered by the State. Nearly seven million tons of freight a year are handled over the wharves at San Francisco. A Walk Along the Water Front 85 Though steam has almost supplanted the sail on the cargo carriers of the world, the bowsprit of many an old "wind- jammer" is poked across the seawall at San Francisco, and able seamen can still be found here that know what it is to lay aloft and shorten sail in a Cape Horn gale. On a bluff to your left, which is old Rincon Point, is an old, square, brick building with porches overlooking the activi- ties of the harbor. It is the Sailors' Home, the old U. S. Marine Hospital, built by the Federal Government in 1853, during the administration of President Franklin Pierce. SOMETIMES A WHALER. Farther on, at the foot of Howard street, one can sometimes find, in early spring, an old whaler, recognizable by its tapering spars, its crow's nest aloft, and its rows of timber davits from which hang the slim whale-boats. A little later in the year they will all be gone. After the coal bunkers, and colliers discharging, one comes to the Ferry Post Office, and then the Ferri; building, which deserves more than passing mention. This building is San Francisco's water gate and union depot as well, and is one of the great gateways of world travel. At its eight slips, there are 1 70 arrivals and departures of ferry boats every twenty-four hours, bearing over 1 06,000 people into and out of the city. The Ferry building itself is an imposing structure, and the nave on the second story is 48 feet wide and 650 feet long. Here President McKinley was welcomed, midwinter flower shows have been held, conventions have been received and the delegates registered, and California's soldier boys returning from the Philippines were banqueted. In the floor is a mosaic representing the Great Seal of California, and on the wall nearby hangs an account of its origin and a statement of its allegorical meaning. The California Development Board has its headquarters here. The Ferry building also houses the California State Mining Bureau, with its offices, its library, 86 HandbooJi; for San Francisco ALONG "THE FRONT." Weidner, photo. and its immense collection of mineral specimens. Both these in- stitutions will be described later. You have been passing Telegraph Hill on your left, and now come to the Quarantine station, the barge office of the Custom House, and the marine reporting station of the Cham- ber of Commerce, which furnishes a marine news service that is one of the most complete and effective in any port in the world. Directly beyond the marine reporting station is Fishermen s Wharf, always a busy scene, with swarms of Greek and Italian fishermen working at their nets and gear, or landing their catches. See index. No one should leave San Francisco without visiting this locality which reproduces in detail the life aspect of a south Italian fishing port. In your three-mile tramp around the "front"' you have been getting sectional views of the panorama of the bay and the A Walk Along the Water Front 87 opposite shores, beautiful sea-vistas that make you hungry for a vision of the whole. Climb Telegraph Hill and you will get it. Retrace your steps to the foot of Powell street, turn south to Greenwich, just south of the children's playground, and then turn east on Greenwich, which will lead you by rough ways, through a thickly settled tenement district, past quaint Good Children street, to Pioneer Park at the top. A SUPERB SCENE. From this point, 300 feet above the water, the marine re- porting of early days was done by semaphore; when there was no overland railroad, when ships were few and far be- tween, and every arrival meant the possibility of messages from loved ones in "the states," or the coming of wife and chil- dren to share the fortune of the mines and make a home in California. The counterpart of Telegraph Hill exists in no other large city in the United States. No one can begin to know San Francisco until he has climbed it. From the top you can see the imperial city of San Fran- cisco in its most interesting aspect. You can see the docks and the shipping, brought into one view. You can see the grandest harbor of the grandest ocean. You can see the bold sweep of the opposite shore, set with smaller cities — Alameda, Oakland, Berkeley, Pullman, Richmond — with the hills that seem forever marching at their backs, and Yerba Buena island in the foreground. You can look straight north into the mouth of San Pablo bay, through which run the waters of California's mighty rivers, with the red farallone standing like a sentinel at its approach. To the left. Angel island merges with the Marin hills, behind which rises Tamalpais. The whole expanse of blue water is troubled with puffy little tugs, barges, great steamers entering or leaving, ferry boats weaving like shuttles across it. And westward is the Golden Gate, winding toward you like the Bosphorus, with 88 Handbook for San Francisco Alcatraz island set like a gem, at its inner end. Perhaps there will be a full-rigged ship from England or from China majestically moving through the wide channel, making a picture you will not soon forget. Descend by way of Greenwich street to Kearny, and then turn south on the latter street. The neighborhood is thickly tenanted and there is no race suicide apparent. Children are everywhere, children whose mothers speak to them from the door-steps in soft Italian or Spanish, and who reply in crisp and startling English. For you are entering the Latin Quar- ier^ going down by steep, cleated sidewalks that remind one of Genoa. The Italian pervades it, though Greek, Sicilian, Mexican and Spaniard are also in evidence — people that love the sun and find in San Francisco a congenial clime. The whole quarter is reminiscent of south Europe, and yet is distinctively San Franciscan, for San Francisco is a city of all nations; of and for all races of men. WALKS ABOUT SAN FRANCISCO. IV. — Produce Commission District, Noh Hill and Russian Hill. Directly west of the wharves north of the Ferry building, where the river boats land, are four city squares and parts of two more, in which about 80 commission merchants handle millions of dollars worth of California produce a year. The territory extends westerly from Drumm to Front streets, and northwardly from Clay to Jackson, running up Washington almost a block, to Battery. This section of the city is worth seeing for the variety of the fruits and produce displayed, and the tumultuous activity of its business. The dairy produce merchants transact their business on the edges of the fruit commission district. Facing Battery street and extending from Washington to A Walk on Nob Hill 89 Jackson is the United States Custom House, an impressive and beautiful structure, erected since the fire at a cost of a million and a half. It is built of granite and handsomely fin- ished inside in marble and bronze. Here ships are docu- mented and registered, and customs and internal revenue dues collected. On the western half of the same block with the Custom House stands the brick pile known as the Appraisers' Building. It survived the fire, practically in its present condition. For- merly it housed many of the government offices now in the Custom House, but has since been given over to laboratories, store rooms and record rooms. From the Appraisers building or the Custom House, go south to California street, then westward through the financial district, up through the south end of Chinatown, and ascend to the Fairmont Hotel. This neighborhood is Nob Hill — celebrated in the history of the city and well- known wherever people are familiar with the achievements of the great figures of "Bonanza days" and the era of early railroad construction. Here a group of the Comstock mil- lionaires and railroad builders erected their mansions — Mark Hopkins, Leland Stanford, James C. Flood, D. D. Colton, Charles Crocker and W. H. Crocker, his son, and many more. Some were gorgeous palaces, embellished in teak, ebony, ivory, inlaid pearl-shell and bronze, with mural tapestries and paintings by celebrated European artists. They were all swept away by the mounting flames except the mansion of James C. Flood, a "brown-stone front," that stands across the street from the Fairmont Hotel. The Flood home, remodeled and some- what enlarged, is now the beautiful Pacific Union club. At the southwest corner of California and Powell streets, where the Leland Stanford residence once stood, is now being erected the largest apartment house on the Pacific Coast, a gigantic structure that will cost over a million. A block away the San Francisco Institute of Art occupies the site of the 90 Handbook for San Francisco Mark Hopkins mansion, at the southeast comer of Cahfornia and Powell streets. In the block between Taylor and Jones streets, beyond the Pacific Union Club, is the divinity school connected with Grace Pro-Cathedral, of the Episcopal diocese. It is part of what will be the most important establishment of the Episcopal church in the West. Grace Cathedral will rise at the corner of Jones street. It will be in the beautiful English Gothic style, with a central tower rising 230 feet, or higher than any other structure on Nob Hill. At present the crypt is being used tem- porarily as a place of worship. This block of land was formerly occupied by the homes of Charles Crocker and W. H. Crocker, and was a gift from the heirs of Charles Crocker to the Episcopal church. Every hill-top in San Francisco shifts the scenes and sets the stage anew. Fine as the view is from the vicinity of Cali- fornia and Mason streets, it is even better from the top of Russian Hill. Take Taylor street northward to Vallejo. A few stone steps here will put you on the zig-zag trail to the top. Russian Hill is part of a ridge with two distinct crests, one at Vallejo between Taylor and Jones, and the other at Green- wich and Hyde streets. Here also was the abode of an aristocracy, but an earlier one than that which built up Nob Hill. Beyond the industrial foreground of North Beach, smoking with the energy of its factories, the view is one of splendor. The long moles running out from the opposite shore ; the cities behind them; Yerba Buena island. Point Richmond with its oil tanks and its growing industries, the straits con- necting with San Pablo bay, and then Alcatraz island. Angel island behind it, Richardson's bay with Tamalpais for its back- ground — all these would be beautiful enough for a most ex- traordinary picture. But turning to the left one sees the Golden Gate in one of its most graceful aspects, like a broad, wind- ing stream, with Fort Point thrusting into it from the southern By Trolley and Cable 91 shore, and just in front the grounds of the Exposition, while across the Gate rise the bold hills of Marin county. If this ramble has led you far enough, take the cable car on Hyde street, south bound, which will deliver you at the cor- ner of Market and O'Farrell streets, on the edge of the shop- ping district ; or you can transfer from it to the California street ALCATRAZ ISLAXD VUOM RUSSIAN HILL. cable line, east bound, and be carried over the crest of Nob hill and down to the financial center at California and Mont- gomery streets. HOW TO SEE SAN FRANCISCO BY TROLLEY AND CABLE. STREET RAILWAYS. Three companies operate street car lines in this city; the United Railroads of San Francisco, the Presidio & Ferries, and the California Street Cable Railway, which operates also the Hyde and O'Farrell street line. In addition to these pri- 92 Handbook for San Francisco vate corporations the city operates the Cear^ Street Municipal Railroad, from the Ferry to the Ocean Beach, with an exten- sion over Tenth avenue to Golden Gate Park. Transfer points are too numerous to mention, there being a generous interchange between the different companies where they do not parallel one another's lines, and, on any given sys- tem, between different routes in the same general direction. This enables one to get about the city at will for a single fare, generally speaking. Most lines of the United Railroads carry a number on a square lantern on the roof. No lines other than the lines of this company are numbered at this date. On the Geary street line, cars marked A run from the Fer- ries to the Park, those marked B, to the Beach. The California Street Cable railroad runs from the junc- tion of Market and California streets, near the Ferry, out California street to Presidio avenue, where it transfers to lines of the United Railroads for the Richmond district. Golden Gate Park or the Cliff. It transfers also to the Hyde & O'Farrell street cars at Hyde. The Hyde and O'Farrell street line runs from the junction of Market and O'Farrell streets, out O'Farrell to Jones, on Jones north to Pine, on Pine to Hyde, and north on Hyde to Beach. An extension from Market and Jones meets the O'Farrell street line at Jones and O'Farrell streets. All Hyde street cars transfer at Hyde and Union streets to the Presidio & Ferries line, which runs from the Ferry to the Presidio by way of Washington street, Columbus avenue. Union, Larkin, Vallejo, Franklin and Union streets. Generally cars stop at near crossings. Exceptions are indi- cated by stop signs on the trolley wire. Except on leaving Market street, they stop before curves, and this is the rule for entering Market. As a rule, if you need a transfer ask for it on entering the car. On the California street line, transfers are issued on approaching the transfer corner. By Trolley and Cable 93 Most of the trolley cars operated in San Francisco are of the pay-as-you-enter type, and it will facilitate locomotion if you will have your nickel ready. TROLLEY TRIP NO. 1. I. Nob Hill, the Colden Gate, Land's End, Sutro Heights, Sutro Baths, Cliff House and Seal Rocks. Take California street cable car going vpest, and transfer at Presidio avenue to trolley line No. I, marked ''Cliff,'' con- tinuing Tvest on California street. Return by the same line, but omit the transfer coming back- The route will take you through the edge of ChinatoTvn, over the top of Nob Hill, where the Comstock and railroad millionaires built their mansions, out to old Lone Mountain Cemetery, where many of them built their mausoleums, through the Richmond district, along the bluffs overlooking the Golden Gate and to a point within easy walking distance of the Cliff House and the Sutro Gardens, Museum and Baths. At the corner of Grant avenue, the line passes **Old St. Mary's," once the cathedral, built early in the "fifties." On the two west corners of California street and Grant avenue stand Chinese bazaars, with pagoda-like pavilions on their roofs, forming an Oriental entrance to the Chinese quarter, which one can see looking northward up Grant avenue. Mounting the east slope of Nob Hill, you soon raise Tele- graph Hill, to the northeast, and catch a glimpse of Verba Buena Island to eastward. The handsome brick structure at the east corner of Powell street is the University Club. Across Powell street is the Fairmont Hotel, and on the southwest cor- ner of California and Powell streets, opposite the Fairmont, is Stanford Court, the largest apartment building on the Pacific Coast. It is rising on the site of the residence of Governor Stanford, one of the "Big Four" that built the first overland railroad, who left the bulk of his large estate to found Leland Stanford Junior University. 94 Handboof^ for San Francisco Northward up Powell street, the tip of Angel Island ap- pears. Southward is a view over the city and the south bay. The brownstone building beyond the Fairmont and on the same side of the street is the home of the Pacific Union Club, and was formerly the residence of James C. Flood, partner of W. S. O'Brien in the amassing of much wealth from the Comstock mines. At the southeast corner of California and Mason streets is the San Francisco Institute of Art, on the site of the residence of Mark Hopkins, another of the railroad "Big Four." The white building on the west side of Taylor street, north of California, the right-hand side going out, is the Divinit'^ School connected with Grace Pro-Cathedral, and part of what is to be the most important ecclesiastical establishment of the Episcopal church in the West. The cathedral itself will rise at the corner of Jones and California. At present services are held in the crypt. At Van Ness avenue, the red sandstone building a block north is the family residence of the late Claus Spreckels, the sugar king. At the next northeast corner is the Christian Science Church, handsome in composition, and bright in color, with walls of varigated brick. At Webster street is the synagogue of the Congregation Sherith Israel, a dignified structure, part of which served as a hall of justice after the fire. To the north of the synagogue, on Webster at the corner of Sacramento, are Cooper Medical College and Lane Hospital, now the medical department of Stanford University. At Presidio avenue transfer to Sutter street Line No. I, marl^ed "Cliff."' The cemetery on the south side of the street at this point is Laurel Hill, known to the older San Franciscans as ''Lone Mountain Cemetery,'' about which you can find more by con- sulting the index. B}) Trolley and Cable 95 The low wooded hills that appear to the north are part of the Presidio, founded by the Spaniards as a military post. The Presidio is the largest military reservation in the country within city limits, and covers 1 ,542 acres. The north shore runs out in a long, narrow tongue of land known as Fort Point, with Fort W infield Scott at its tip. The reservation is con- nected with Golden Gate Parif by a parked strip which the car crosses at Thirteenth and Fourteenth avenues. North of the Presidio, the Marin county hills and the sum- mit of Mt. Tamalpais begin to tower. Soon the car rounds a bend to the east of the old city cemetery, and the whole Golden Gate swings into the landscape, a superb marine view in a frame of bold hills. This is close acquaintance with the famous strait, which appears here in its loveliest aspect. Bauer's Beach stretches back toward Fort Scott. Beyond is Angel Island, on which are located Fort McDowell, the United State Immigration Station, and the Discharge Camp of the Arm"^, where dis- charged soldiers, returning from the Philippines, are temporarily quartered. North of Angel Island one looks through Raccoon Straits, a short cut for vessels entering the harbor and bound "up river direct." The channel is full of life and movement — the life and movement of vast volumes of water, and of vessels of all sorts and sizes, from the gasoline launch or lateen rigged smack of the herring fleet, to the great liners plying between San Fran- cisco and Hong Kong or Yokohama, and "wind jammers" outward bound for Liverpool or Antwerp. Beyond the Forty-eighth avenue terminus of the car line. Point Lobos avenue winds around a large bluff to connect with the Great Highway along the beach. On the left, as you begin to descend, is the entrance to Sutro Heights. This beau- tiful place, with its palm avenues, its rare trees and brilliant flowers, its reproductions of classic sculpture ornamenting shaded retreats, its esplanades and balconies 200 feet above the sea, with their grand views of ocean and beach and mountain chain. 96 Handbook for San Francisco kMM. ^ fe ^■ifri MttM^ ^^ ^' " P^^r'^^Sr^^^^filH^ - ^mJm^ 1 ^'JS^^^^BKmSmB^B^KL 1 w^^' ••■.••I, '^^ ,3M '*' -fej^ " '^^'"'^^^^^^ms^^ T IN SUTRO GARDEiNS. is the private garden surrounding the home of the late Adolph Sutro, former Mayor of San Francisco; the man that drove the famous tunnel into the Comstock lode, unwatering the mines and reopening their treasure houses. It is and has been, ever since its creation out of the barren hills, open to the public, through the munificence of Mr. Sutro during his life and the continuance of the same generous policy by the members of his family. To westward of the residence will be found a broad terrace surrounded by the Parapet, on which stand life-size mytholog- ical figures, some of them copied from the most famous statues in Europe. The view over the sea, and up and down the coast is nothing less than wondrous in its beauty. Leave the Parapet and descend by the rock stairway to the right. This will take you to the Balcony and boardwalk. For three miles you can look down a straight, uninterrupted line of pounding breakers and sheets of swimming foam, making one of the most sublime and inspiring scenes to be found. B^ Trolley and Cable 97 The entrance to the garden is the only pubHc exit. Farther down Point Lobos avenue, on the right, are the Sulro Baths and Museum. Here is a vast structure covering nearly three acres of ground and containing the largest indoor swimming tanks ever built. The area devoted to bathing purposes is 153 by 285 feet. The northeasterly part is divided into five tanks, of which four are 28 feet wide by 78 feet long, and the fifth the same length and 45 feet in width. The rest of the bathing area forms an L-shaped pool, 285 feet long and 75 feet wide, for 157 feet, when it merges into the base of the L, and runs 153 feet wide for 128 feet. In addition, there is a fresh-water plunge. The Museum^ disposed along the promenade and galleries, contains some notable displays. The building of these baths and the installation of this col- lection was one of the last undertakings of Mr. Sutro, who died in 1 898, two years after the gigantic structure was com- pleted. Just below the baths and museum are the Cliff House and Seal Rocks. This vicinity is world-renowned. It has been the scene of the lavish gaieties of San Franciscans for genera- tions. To this place in the past they drove their pairs of blooded trotters, and here they come today with the high- powered autos. From the porch of the Cliff House, Presidents Grant, Hayes, Harrison and McKinley have watched the sea lions lolling on the rocks. The present Cliff House is the third of a series, and was erected in 1909, its immediate predecessor having burned in 1907, the year after the great fire. The Cliff House is a restaurant, not a hotel. There is a good cafe here, from whose windows one looks out, while din- ing, on the glories of beach and surf, ocean and mountains 98 Handboof^ for San Francisco and rocky coast. The public is welcome, under the present management, to descend the stone stairs to the broad terrace, whence one sees across 300 feet of swirling tide those curious marine objects, the Seal Roc^s, and their colonies of gulls, cormorants and sea lions. These last are of "His wonders on the deep." Their huge, obese bodies, like apoplectic aldermen, dragged laboriously about the crags ; their small and winsome dogs' heads reared with the grace of a fine setter ; their hideous black flippers so pitifully inadequate for scaling rocks ; their handsome coats of brown, drying in the sun or soaked and gleaming with the spray, make an absurd but fascmatmg combination of grace and awkwardness, of ugliness and beauty, that one can watch and wonder at by the hour. At Forty-seventh avenue and Balboa street, within easy walking distance of the Cliff House, is the Golden Gate Ostrich Farm, with incubators for the huge eggs, and with a rapidly growing flock. We would advise visitors to return by the line of cars that took them "out to the Cliff," as no other is quite so beautiful as the run along the bluffs from Baker's Beach to Point Lobos. TROLLEY TRIP NO. 2. Market street. Park Panhandle, Affiliated Colleges and the Heights overlooking the Sunset District and the Pacific Ocean; returning h^ the Twin Peaks Switch-hack- Take Hay^es street line No. 6, marked ''Ninth Avenue,'' at the Ferr^, or anywhere on Market street, going rvestrvard. Returning, transfer at Ashhury street to car going south, and transfer again at Eighteenth to Castro street Car No. 8, going toward Ferr^. Ask for your transfer on hoarding car. This route will take you through the heart of the city, and to a six-hundred-foot elevation beyond Twin Peaks. From By Trolley and Cable 99 the terminus a short walk will put you on a rocky promontory 750 feet high, whence there is a sublime prospect of mountain, sand dune and ocean. The return will show part of the city and the bay. Running out Market street, the car passes Marshall Square^ the entrance to the old city hall site, which is on the right, with the James Lick Monument to the Pioneers, and a bronze cannon taken from the Spaniards at Santiago de Cuba. The red dome rising just eastward of the city hall site is the roof of the Hall of Records. At the east end of the Park Panhandle one sees the McKin- ley Monument to "Peace," and the Southern Pacific Hospital on the farther side. Beyond the Affiliated Colleges the car runs along the west- ern slope of Blue Mountain, now called Mt. Sutro, a forested hill that rises on the left to a height of 920 feet. The build- ings at its base, east of the terminus, are the County Relief Home for the Aged and Infirm, and the Infirmary, temporarily used as the City and County Hospital. From the end of the car line at Pacheco street and Ninth avenue, walk south to Mendoza street, climb the hill to the water tank, and thence follow the crest of the ridge out to a rocky point, beyond the flag pole. This point is over 750 feet above the ocean and opens an unobstructed panorama north, south and west. No other view within the limits of a city combines in equal degree features of such sublimity with others of such delicate and quiet beauty. The first object to the extreme right is Alcatraz Island. To the north looms Tamalpais, hazy and blue in the distance, its lower slopes hidden by the nearer hills. That famous waterway, the Golden Gate, shines like a rib- bon of blued steel at their feet. Then come the Presidio, Golden Gate Park with its slowly turning windmills, and, closer in, an immensity of rolling dunes with picture patches of vegeta- tion here and there. Homes and cultivation appear, suburban gardens and tree-planted tracts. 1 00 Handbook for San Francisco Directly west are the three-hundred-foot towers of the Poul- son wireless telegraph. Southwestward are the two shining wings of Lake Merced^ and still farther south the San Bruno hills send out their sloping buttresses and steep escarpments toward the sea. Beyond, and all along, making the most wonderful and unforgettable part of the picture, is the Pacific Ocean, and nowhere can a deeper impression of its majesty be felt than here. One sees it throughout a sweep of 1 80 degrees. Distance and the altitude level the waves, and nothing breaks the crystal plain except the far-off dots of rock that form the outposts of the Gulf of the Farallones. If this grandeur oppresses, quieter beauties lie below. Ris- ing gently through the sloping valley to the south are truck farms, winding among wooded areas; little squares of choco- late-colored tilth, or framed harmonies in the lush greens of market gardens, with the forms and composition of those Eng- lish landscapes that tempted the burins of the old engravers. Backward, to the east, can be seen a glimpse of the southern end of the bay ; and between the crests of Twin Peaks, the tip of Ml Diablo. Sunset in the ocean, seen from this point in winter, or when summer fogs hang low and reflect the fiery glare of level rays, is indescribable in words, and the painter that should put it on canvas would be suspected of romanticism. Naturally, one wishes to see beyond those sharp peaks to eastward. On the return trip take a transfer and Change at Ashbury street to the southbound car marked ''Third and Harrison and Park-'' Ask for another transfer on boarding the car. The car runs behind Mount Olympus, with its statue of Liberty, and emerges on the east face of Twin Peaks, passing just below the Ashbury Reservoir of the city's auxiliary salt- water fire protection system. This tank holds half a million gallons, and connects with 75 miles of cast-iron pipe covering nearly all of San Francisco. It is fed from the Main Reservoir By Trolley and Cable 101 of the system, on the Peaks above, which holds ten million gallons and forms the hydrostatic head of what Charles M. Schwab on a recent visit characterized as one of the greatest pieces of engineering work in the world. The car runs to a switch-back on the west slope of Twin Peaks and then winds down to Eighteenth street, affording as it does so, a grand vista of the bay and the hills of the opposite shore, as well as the Mission and Potrero districts of the city. At the corner of Eighteenth and Castro streets. Change to northbound car "8" for the Ferry, which mil take you down Market street. At the head of Van Ness avenue, which you will pass coming in, is the citizens' monument to the California Volun- teers of the Spanish-American War. On the northwest corner of Van Ness avenue and Oak street rises the stately and beautiful Masonic Temple. Even an average walker can get a glorious view of the city, the ocean and the entire bay region from t^e top of Twin Peaks, easily accessible from the switch-back, or at the Fire Department house nearby. TROLLEY TRIP NO. 3. Nob Hill, Chinatown, Fishermen s Wharf, Crab and Fish Market, North Beach, Marine Reporting Station of the Cham- ber of Commerce, Immigration Station, Custom House Station, Quarantine; Latin Quarter, Portsmouth Square and the Robert Louis Stevenson Monument, Hall of Justice, Chinatown again. Take ''Market and Powell, Bay and Taylor'' cable car, north bound, at Market and Powell streets, or anywhere on Powell street, or by transfer from any Market street car, and go to terminus. Returning, take trolley car marked ''15'' at end of Powell street, ask for transfer, and at Kearny and Sac- ramento streets change to west bound cable. Ask for transfer again, and at Powell change to any south bound car. This is one of the most interesting trips in San Francisco, or any other city, and, like some other San Francisco trolley excursions, is made partly by cable. 1 02 Handbool^ for San Francisco Beyond California, Powell street looks down on the Chinese Quarter for a distance of about five blocks. At Jackson street the car turns westward, then follows Mason street to Columbus avenue, running along the eastern slope of Russian Hill. From this elevation there is a fair but somewhat broken view over the bay, including Yerba Buena Island, the Alameda county shore and the Contra Costa hills back of Oakland and Berk- eley. On Broadway, westward from Mason street, is a very handsome church building, that of Nuestra Senora de Guada- lupe, for the Spanish-American population of the city. Ahead appears Alcatraz Island, with its prison and lighthouse tower. From the turntable at the end of this route walk directly north through the lumber dumps to Fishermen's Wharf, which you will find around the bend beyond the Neptune Restaurant. Here, if you have a liking for the human picturesque, you will meet it face to face. Fishermen s Wharf is two wharves, in a lagoon formed by rough breakwaters. About 1 75 fishing craft find harborage here amid special facilities for carrying on the fishing industry. The State charges a toll of 75 cents or a dollar, according to length of boat. Iron ladders lead up from the water. Ways have been built into it. There are high rails, worn smooth with use, over which of a Saturday morning hundreds of acres of nets are hung to dry. South of the lagoon and east of it are boat builders' shops. On the south shore is a blacksmith shop, where the necessary fastening, and marine hardware, is forged and kept in repair. And all the men engaged here, fishers, boatbuilders and blacksmiths, probably over 500, are Italian, many fresh from the Mediterranean and still speaking only that "liquid music" which is their mother tongue. Once they were almost all Genoese, but that was in the old days of the graceful, swift and treacherous lateen rig, with its lean sail slanting aft like the wing of a gull. Very few lateen sails are left, the gasoline engine having superseded them; and, with the other changes of time, other places such as B^ Trolley and Cable 103 Naples, Rome, Civita Vecchia, Chiavari, Palermo, and Mes- sina, have contributed delegates, until almost all Italy and Sicily are represented. The Genoese still stick together, how- ever, and amid the parti-colored boats theirs may be distin- guished by coats of pale green. Here is a complete Old World community at work at its own vocation on the shores of the Golden Gate; and it is foreign in costume, manner and speech. English is spoken by few, and then by accident. Weather-brown men of the out- doors go about sea-farmg tasks in regalia such as you see on the stage. The general headgear is the Tam O'Shanter, with fat pompon atop, woven originally in bright colors, but faded into mellow harmonies by a hundred suns. The shirt is a colored and often striped jersey. The trousers are belted with a twisted sash, and disappear into the cavernous tops of huge sea-boots. It reads like the chorus of an opera troupe; and it is tradition that a chorus once struck in San Francisco and within an hour the manager had forty voices from Fishermen's Wharf, and they needed no grease paint and no rehearsals to render Verdi and Donizetti with a spirit rare in any theater. Thursday afternoon is the best time to visit Fishermen's Wharf, when the big catches of rock-cod, smelt, striped bass and crabs are brought in to be sold in the free fish and crab market around the corner from Caviglia's boat-building shop. But there is always something doing, whether it is Thursday or not. With block and tackle they may be dragging a boat up the ways for paint and repairs — when all bystanders "tail on" and pull with all their weight. Or, rocking peacefully in the little lagoon, a couple of owners bait hundreds of feet of line coiled in a tray, with the hooks caught in the padded rim; transfixing anchovies on them with magical deftness, and then baiting other trayfuls and yet other trayfuls until the hold is filled with trays of line ready for a start at midnight. Or, again, sitting in the sun, silent and saturnine, pipe in mouth, an iron hoop about his knees and a long shuttle of seine line in his 04 Handbook for San Francisco hand, a crab fisher weaves a crab net with all the restful cer- tainty of an old woman knitting a sock. In a shed behind the crab market, a darkened obscurity lit here and there by the glow of low fires, the nets receive their brown color in huge vats of tannage. DRYING NETS AT FlSllKU.MKN S WHARF. The little community thinks, dreams and lives fish. The children learn the industry by absorption and inhalation. They admire like connoisseurs the silver crops landed in baskets on the wharf, they lend a hand to make fast the painter as a launch chugs in, they clamber over the unclad skeletons of boats in Caviglia's, heedless of the chance of falling through the ribs or stepping on a chisel. The blue sky, the dancing water of the Golden Gate, the ships at anchor in the stream, the amethystine hills, the moun- tains looming beyond, the islands like Ischia and Capri, the keen air with its salty smell, make an environment in which toil By Trolley and Cable 105 resembles sport, and men and boys go about it with a satis- faction that finds its vent in jocular shouts and gusty laughter. Northward over a convenient plank you reach the marine reporting station of the Chamber of Commerce. Beside it, in a row of old water-front structures, are the Immigration Station and the barge office of the Custom House. The quar- antine steamer lies at the dock, and a pilot boat is likely to be riding in the stream. For this is the official entrance to San Francisco Bay. Westward of this point, the wooded hill running out into the water is the site of Fort Mason and the Transport Docks. Walk eastward along the wharves, where the big steam schooners are discharging hundreds of thousands of feet of lumber from "up the coast," to the gas-holder at the foot of Powell street, and here Take Trolley Car ''15,'' southbound, and asJ^ for transfer. This car takes you down Powell street to Columbus avenue, and then by Union, Stockton and Broadway into Kearny street. Down Stockton to Broadway and along Broadway to Kearny, you are going through the business section of the Latin Quarter; first the business signs bear French names and then Italian, and there are several blocks where you will not see an English name. Down Kearny street you will pass the Hall of Justice, and Portsmouth Square, where stands the monument to Robert Louis Stevenson. (See index). Change at Sacramento street to westbound cable car marked ''Ferries and Fillmore via Sacramento and Clay.'* Get a transfer. This car lifts you up the hill through Chinatown, which can only be seen to advantage lingeringly and afoot. At the Fairmont Hotel change to southbound Powell street cable, which will take you back to Market street and the point of beginning. TROLLEY TRIP NO. 4. Presidio Military Reservation, and Exposition site at Har- bor View, by way of O'Farrell street and the retail and 1 06 Handboof^ for San Francisco apartment house districts. Returning fcp Fillmore street hill. Nob Hill and Powell street. Take O'Farrell street cable car at Market and O'Farrell streets, transfer at Union street to trolley car marked *'Pre- sidio,'' west bound, and go to end of line. Returning, change at Fillmore street to car bound south (up the hill) and at Washington street change again to ''Washington, Jackson, Powell and Market'' cable car bound east. O'Farrell street affords a fair example of the rebuilding of the downtown section of San Francisco. The buildings are large, new and beautifully appointed, as they are throughout this entire retail section, and the stores are as fine as can be found anywhere. At H^de and Union streets, transfer to Presidio and Fer- ries line, car marked ''Presidio,'' bound west. Within a block the view discloses the topographical reasons for the location of the Panama-Pacific Exposition. A bowl- shaped anrphitheater cper^s ahead, its sides built up with dwell- ings and its floor containing the level land that forms the Expo- sition site. Up Van Ness avenue, a block north at the corner of Green street, you catch a glimpse, in passing, of the small dome and turrets of the Creek Catholic Cathedral, one of four in the United States. As the car runs west on Union street, the Exposition grounds lie to the northward at the edge of the water. The terminus of the line is inside the "Presidio," which was the Spanish name for the military post. This Presidio was founded by the Spaniards in 1 776, and covers an area of 1,542 acres. During the recent Philippine insurrection 10,000 American soldiers at a time camped here. Part of it projects into the Golden Gate in the form of a long cape, called Fort Point, with Fort Winfield Scott at the northern end. Near the end of the car line, on the north, are the buildings of the finest and most extensive military hospital in the United States, the Letterman General Hospital. It cost over half a By Trolley^ and Cable 107 million dollars, and here the sick and wounded soldier boys returning from the Philippines are cared for. There are fine drives through the reservation, and a good walker will find much of interest. The Presidio is open to the public, but in certain parts marked by signs at the roadside, cameras are forbidden. Dress parades are held Thursdays and Fridays at 4 p. m. Guard mounting may be seen on the upper parade at 9 a. m. Sundays, 10 a, m. Saturdays and 10:30 the other days of the week. Infantry drills can be seen daily between 7 and 11 a. m., except Saturdays and Sundays. At that hour on Saturday inspection is held. At Fort W infield Scott, the fortifications can be visited, but only on a pass obtained from the Adjutant's office in the Ad- ministration building, and in company with a man detailed for the purpose. The best time is the morning, before 1 1 o'clock, as nobody can be detailed for this service in the afternoon. Ar- tillery drill occurs from 8 to 10 a, m., daily, except Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays. At 4:30 p. m., Thursdays, there is a parade. None of the fortifications or batteries must be sketched or photographed. Returning, ta^e a transfer and change at Fillmore street to car bound south (up the hill). Here a cable will lift you for two blocks on the steepest grade mounted by any car line in San Francisco. Rearward are the Golden Gate and the Marin county hills. At the top of the grade you change again to a car going in the same direction. Get a transfer. Passing Calvary^ Presby^terian Church, the next transfer point is at Washmgton street, one block beyond. At Fillmore and Washington streets, change to the cable car mar}(ed *' Washington, Jacl^son, Powell and Marl^et,'' bound east on Washington street. A few blocks eastward is Lafayette Parl^, on the right. 08 Handbook for San Francisco Along this line and parallel streets such as Jackson, Pacific, Broadway and Vallejo, forming in part what is called ''Pacific Heights,'' and reaching as far as Powell street, on Nob Hill, are many of the finer residences of the city ; the town houses of local merchants, bankers and capitalists. SAN FRANCISCO APARTMENTS — PUEBLO TYPE. As the car swings around mto Powell street there is a beautiful vista of the bay, with Yerba Buena Island, and the cities on the opposite shore. You descend rapidly into the business district, passing the St. Francis Hotel, at Geary street, and running to the turntable at Market in front of the Flood building, which stands on the site of the famous old Baldwin Hotel. TROLLEY TRIP NO. 5. Union Iron Works, Potrero Industrial District, Islais Creek, Butcher Toivn, Bay Vierv, Six-Mile House and Visitacion Valley; returning by rvay of the Mission. By Trolley and Cable [09 Take Kentucky street line No. 16, anyrvhere along Kearny street, or at Third and Market; ask for transfer, and ride to terminus at Thirty-second avenue south. Change here to **Fisi- tacion Valley, Railroad Avenue and Mission' line. Return- ing, take ^'Cemeteries'' car. No. 14, or San Mateo car, east hound, the first of which Tvill take you down Mission street, and the second to Fifth and Market. The route takes you down Third street, past the Southern Pacific Depot at Townsend. Up Townsend to the left, at Second, you can see the handsome concrete Pumping Station No. 1 , of the city's auxihary fire protection system. This sta- tion is equipped with four great turbine pumps that can drive 10,000 gallons of water a minute, drawn from the bay, all over San Francisco, under a pressure of 300 pounds to the inch. A reservoir under the building holds a million gallons of fresh water to supply the eight boilers, and nearby is storage for 2,000 barrels of fuel oil. The car crosses the Channel at Fourth street, and runs down to and along Kentucky street. On the left lies Central Basin, with the gaunt skeleton frames of the Union Iron Works. The frames carry traveling cranes, by which are han- dled the materials for the construction of the largest types of ship. A launching from these ways is an interesting and thrilling spectacle. At this plant were built the battleship "Oregon," whose dramatic run around South America during the Spanish war awakened the anxieties of the nation and caused the irresistible public demand for the construction of the Panama Canal; and the cruiser "Olympia," Admiral Dewey's flagship at the battle of Manila Bay. Other war vessels built here have been the battleships "Wisconsin" and "Ohio," the armored cruisers "California" and "South Dakota," the protected cruisers "Charleston," "San Francisco," "Milwaukee" and "Taco- ma," the monitors "Monterey" and "Wyoming," a long list of gunboats, torpedo boats and destroyers, and several sub- marines. The imperial Japanese cruiser "Chitose" was also 1 1 HandbooJ^ for San Francisco constructed by the Union Iron Works. This plant and the great drydocks at Hunter's Point have recently been acquired by the Bethlehem Steel Company. Three blocks beyond the Union Iron Works, at Potrero Point, is the Western Sugar Refinery, one of the largest indus- trial plants about the bay. The car next crosses Islais Creef^, destmed to be a fine inland harbor. On the right are extensive truck gardens, farmed by thrifty Italians, and irrigated by scores of windmills that make a Hol- land scene. This tract is already being marketed for factory sites, being close to rail and water. At Thirty-second street, change for the Six-Mile House. The road now winds down into Visitacion Valley, a prom- ising new industrial district, crosses over the line into San Mateo county, crosses back again into San Francisco, and makes a cross-country run to Mission street. At Mission street, take north hound car. This car will bring you into the city by the route described in Trolley Trip No. 3, along Mission street, whence you can transfer to Market at any convenient crossing. TROLLEY TRIP NO. 6. San Mateo by Way of ''The Mission,'' Daly City, the Cemeteries, Tanforan, Burlingame and Hillshoro. Returning by Way of San Jose avenue and Guerrero street. Take San Mateo car at Fifth and Market streets. The fare to San Mateo is trventy-five cents. Returning, pay twenty cents to Daly City and there change to Ocean View line No. 26, marked ''Ferries and Daly City (or Ocean View) via Mission, Guerrero Street and San Jose Avenue.'' This trip leads through "the Mission," down to the county line at what is called Daly City, thence around the San Bruno hills and along the east side of the Sierra Morena ridge. The cemeteries are on this line — IVoodlawn, Cypress Lawn, Holy Cross, and others, interments being prohibited in San B^ Trolley and Cable 1 1 1 Francisco. They are very beautiful, with their pools and fountains near the car line, and show what cultivation can do in this rare climate. A short distance out from San Francisco the car passes Tanforan, a once popular race track. A few mijes below Tanforan on this road is the ranch of the late D. O. Mills, a superb estate stretching back toward the hills. Probably this is the wealthiest neighborhood in the West, although it is little on display from the car. San Mateo itself is one of the prettiest residence towns in the whole of California, calling itself, not inaptly, the "Floral City." Gardens abound. Here is a good hostelry, the Hotel Peninsula, with broad and inviting grounds, a few blocks from the end of the car line — a popular resort for San Franciscans. One can get a satisfactory table d'hote luncheon or dinner at a moderate price at the little French hotel next to the Public Library on Second street. There are livery stables and gar- ages, and if one has the time and would see the country to the best advantage he can take a number of drives from San Mateo into entrancing scenes of mountain and redwood forest, by romantic roads, through vales of the most delicate loveliness to lakes more beautiful than Killarney. Here are some of the drives and auto routes laid out by the San Mateo Board of Trade : North LaJ^e Drive, via Crystal Springs New Dam (second largest in the world), San Andreas and Millbrae; circuit 20 miles. Crystal Springs Lake to Halfmoon Bay (Spanishtown), through the famous San Gabilan Pass and Moss Beach on the Pacific Ocean ; 1 5 miles. Las Pulgas Drive, via the Lakes, via Canyada Valley, via West Union Vineyards and Redwood City. Stanford University, via Middlefield Road, through beau- tiful Fair Oaks, returning through the redwoods via Woodside. Burlingame Coif Links, Polo Fields, Country Club, resi- dence district and San Mateo beach; circuit six miles. 1 1 2 Handbook for San Francisco Summit Drive (altitude 2,000 feet), Kings Mountain, via Woodside and Redwood City. Pescadero, Pebble Beach, via Purisima and San Gregorio, returning through the redwoods via La Honda. The San Andreas and Crystal Springs reservoirs are the main source of San Francisco's water supply. Cars start back from San Mateo to San Francisco every twenty minutes, or one can take the Southern Pacific and come up by way of the Bay Shore cut-off and the tunnels, running along the edge of the bay. The return by trolley, along the hills, is very pleasant. Approaching town, one sees, to the right, the San Bruno hills, or mountains, rising 1 ,300 feet. The ridge runs in an easterly and westerly direction, and be- yond the eastern extremity rise three of those ghostly, skeleton towers of the wireless telegraph system, belongmg to the same company that operates the pair on the ocean beach near Golden Gate Park. One of these towers is 608 feet high, the tallest timber structure in the world, and the tallest wireless telegraph tower in America. The station communicates with the Ha- waiian Islands. To vary the scene and traverse a different part of "the Mission" on the return trip, Get off at Daly Cit]) and take car on line No. 26, running by n>ay of San Jose avenue. Diamond, Chenery and Thirtieth streets, Guerrero and Mission. TROLLEY TRIP NO. 7. Mission street, the Mint, Post Office, National Guard Ar- mory, Mission residence and business district, great viaduct, Sutro Forest, Ocean avenue. Lake Merced, Sloat Boulevard, Great Highway and the Ocean Beach; returning through Park- side and the Sunset district, along south side of Golden Gate Park by Switch-Back Railway on the slope of Twin Peaks, down through ''The Mission' and the industrial district, to Third street and up to Market. Bp Trolley and Cable 1 1 3 Take Ingleside line No. 12, on Mission street, going west- ward. Returning, transfer at Twenty^-fifth avenue to Parkside car going northward; transfer again at Twentieth avenue and Lincoln way to Line 20, ''Ellis and Ocean' car going east; at Waller and Stanyan, transfer to ''Third and Harrison and Park'' car, going east; at Third street transfer to any Third street car hound north, to Third and Market streets. Ask for transfer when you board the cars. Mission street runs parallel with Market, one block south. On the right, as the car passes Fifth street, one sees the United States Branch Mint. (See index). Two blocks beyond, at Seventh street, is the United States Court House and Post Office building, which see. At the corner of Fourteenth street, on the right, is the San Francisco Armory of the National Guard of California, an imposing structure covering a space 240x280 feet, with offices, locker rooms, dressing rooms, mess rooms and kitchens, a swim- ming tank, a gymnasium, a rifle range, large disappearing guns, the proper ammunition vault, a drill court 1 68x240 feet, with a gun shed adjoining; and a social hall, library and reading room. It cost $300,000. Just beyond, the car runs into the populous and popular ^'Mission District,'' with thronging business streets, like another city. The route skirts Balhoa Park, on the right, the old coursing park, once the scene of a very popular sport; and the lower edge of the Sutro forest. Through the trees beyond on the other side of the car, one catches indigo glimpses of Lake Merced. The terminus of the car line is at the southern end of the Great Highway, at its junction with Sloat Boulevard. The beach is just beyond, and here one looks out on the vast Pacific across a sweep of tumbling foam. Returning, ask for transfer. Change at Thirty-fifth avenue to Parkside line, hound north. 1 1 4 Handbook for San Francisco This route will thread the dunes of Par^side and take you up through the Sunset District. Changing again at Twentieth avenue and Lincoln D^ap, you are taken along the south side of Golden Gate Park, passing within sight of the Affiliated Colleges, and around the south- east corner of the Park to the Haight street entrance. Change here to the ''Third and Harrison and Park'' ^'"^. going east. As the car turns into Ashbury street and begins to climb the hill it affords a fine view of Lone Mountain and the north- ern part of the city, with the Marin county hills beyond. The car descends the hill, traverses "the Mission" on Eighteenth street at right angles to the route going out, run- ning between the Mission High School and Mission Park, between Church and Dolores streets, and within a block of the Mission Dolores, and winds into Harrison street at Four- teenth. At Third street, Harrison runs into the steep grade of Rin- con Hill. Change here to anij car going north, which will take pou up Third to Market street at Newspaper Square. TROLLEY TRIP NO. 8. Buena Vista Park, <^^d View over Cit\^, Bay and Ocean. Take Haight street line No. 7, on Market street, and get off at Buena Vista Park entrance opposite the end of Lyon street. Return by same way. Buena Vista Park is a wooded hill located almost in the center of the city and affording a fine view. It is east of Golden Gate Park, south of the eastern end of the Panhandle, and on a line with Fourteenth street, projected. The ascent begins at the stone steps on Haight street. There are 36 acres in the park, which rises to a height of over 500 feet. The outlook is almost as good as that from the top of Lone Mountain, and the paths give a better footing, making an easier climb. By Trolley and Cable 115 TROLLEY TRIP NO. 9. By the sightseeing car of the United Railroads. Fare, 75 cents, Tvhich includes entrance fee to Sutro Museum and Baths. Lower Market street. Post street and the retail district. Union Square, Dewey Monument, Presidio, Golden Gate, Land's End, Sutro Baths and Museum, Cliff House and Seal Copyright, R. J. Waters & Co. LOOKING DOWN MARKET STREET FROM POWELL. Rocks, Lincoln Park, L^ort Miley, Golden Gate Park, Park Panhandle, Ashbury Heights, Affiliated Colleges, Mission Dolores, through the Mission District and back io Market street. Car leaves its station inside Ferry Loop at 10 a. m. and 2 p. m., and makes a stop at Montgomery, Post and Market streets at 10:05 a. m. and 2:05 p. m. This trip covers about 38 miles in a little over three hours, and is a good one for those whose time is short and who wish 1 1 6 Handbook for San Francisco to avoid the annoyance of having to transfer. Many important and beautiful parts of the city are described by the conductor, and as the route laid out is very comprehensive, a good idea of San Francisco may be obtained in this vv^ay with little effort. CHURCHES AND DIVINE SERVICE. The churches of San Francisco have played a vital part in its evolution. The Mission of San Francisco d'Assisi, which came to be called the Mission Dolores from the little creek near which it was built, was the initial ecclesiastical establishment, and part of the foundation of the city. In 1 848 the Rev. T. Dwight Hunt arrived in San Fran- cisco, and before a week was out was appointed chaplain to the little community. The first permanent Protestant house of worship in the city was built by his flock, which, as the First Congregational church, throve under the ministry of such stal- wart good citizens as Dr. Stone and Dr. Barrows. The first public school in San Francisco was opened in the First Baptist church on December 26th, 1 849, by John C. Pelton, with three pupils. Calvary Presbyterian Church, which formerly stood on the present site of the St. Francis hotel, was a vital factor in the community, under the ministration of Dr. William A. Scott. Such men as Dr. Horatio Stebbins, Thomas Starr King and Elkan Cohn were not only influential as clergymen, but as leaders in culture and citizenship. "Old St. Mary's" as it is affectionately called, is a land- mark, and was the scene of the labors of Archbishop Alemany, whose portrait ornaments the vestibule opposite that of Padre Junipero Serra. The Second New Jerusalem Church (Swedenborgian) at Lyon and Washington streets, is an architectural gem. So are such edifices as the Evangelical Lutheran, Emanu El, the Churches and Divine Service 1 1 7 present Calvary Presbyterian, the First Presbyterian, St. Luke's Holy Catholic, the First Church of Christ, Scientist, and many more, and so will be the First Congregational, and the new Grace Cathedral, which is to arise on the California street site donated by the Crocker family. Almost all leading religious denominations are represented and have places of worship in San Francisco. For the conven- ience of visitors wishing to attend divine service we give the names and locality of a number of the more noted churches that are readily accessible from the downtown section, and several car lines by which they may be reached. BAPTIST. First Baptist Junction of Market, Octavia and Waller streets. Tal^e Haight street cars. Line No. 7, to Octavia street; Market street cars. Line No. 8, to Waller street; Valencia street cars. Line No. 9, to Valencia street; or Valencia, Cough and Fillmore street cars. Line No. 23, to Valencia. Preaching service, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. Hamilton Square Baptist. Post street, between Fillmore and Steiner. Take Sutter street car. Line No. I , or Sutter and Clement, Line No. 2; get off at Steiner street and walk a block south; or Gear}) Street Municipal line, to Steiner street, and walk ^ block north; or Fillmore and Sixteenth, Line No. 22, or Fill- more and Mission, Line No. 23, get off at Post and Walk ^ block west. Preaching service, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. CHRISTIAN. First Christian. Duboce avenue and Noe street. Haight street car. Line No. 7, to Pierce street and walk two blocks south and through the small park; or Market street car. Line No. 8, to Noe street and walk three blocks north 118 Handbool( for San Francisco to Duboce; or Fillmore and Sixteenth, Line No. 22, to Duboce, and Tvalk two blocks Tvest. Preaching services, II a. m. and 7:45 p. m, Sundays. West Side Christian. Bush street, between Scott and Divis- adero. Sutter and California car. Line No. I , or Sutter and Clem- ent, Line No. 2, get off at Scott and walk o. block north to Bush; or Geary street line, get off at Scott and Walk three blocks north to Bush; or California street cable to Scott and Walk two blocks south to Bush; Turk and Eddy, Line No. 4, or Mission and Richmond, Line No. 24, to Bush and Divisa- dero, and walk east. Preaching services, 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m., Sundays. CHRISTIAN SCIENCE. First Church of Christ, Scientist, CaHfornia and Franklin streets. California street cable; or Ninth and Polk car. Line No. 19. to California street and walk i'^o blocks west. Sunday services, 11 a. m. and 8 p. m. CONGREGATIONAL. First Congregational. Post and Mason streets. Sutter street car. Lines I, 2 or 3, to Mason and walk a block south, or Geary street line and walk ^ block north; or Montgomery and Tenth street line, no number. Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 8 p. m. Mission Congregational. Nineteenth and Dolores streets, opposite Mission Park. Valencia street car. Line No. 9, to Nineteenth street, and Walk two blocks west; or Fillmore and Sixteenth car. Line No. 22, to Dolores street and walk three blocks south; or Eigh- teenth street line, no number, to Dolores and walk one block south. Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. Churches and Divine Service 1 19 PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL. Grace Cathedral. Taylor and Sacramento streets. Sacramento cable to Taylor, California street cable to Tay- lor and rvalf^ a block north, or Powell street cable to Sacra- mento and Walk i^o blocks west. When the crypt, on CaHfornia street, is made ready, services will be held there. (See index). Sunday services. Holy Communion, 8 a. m. ; morning service and sermon, 11 a. m. ; choral vespers, with address, 5 p. m. During the week daily services are held under the direction of the Church Divinity School, at 8:30 a. m. and 5:30 p. m. Holy Communion on Wednesdays and holy days at 10 a. m. Trinity Church. Bush and Gough streets. Sutter street cars. Lines J, 2 or 3, to Cough street and Walk a block north; or California street cable to Cough street and Walk ^^o blocks south. Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 8 p. m. 5/. Luke's Holy Catholic. Van Ness avenue and Clay street. Take Jackson street cable, no number, starting from Powell and Market, to Van Ness, and walk two blocks south; or California street cable to Van Ness and walk i^o blocks north; or any west-bound trolley such as the Hayes street Line No. 6, Turk and Eddy No. 4, McAllister No. 5, or any Market street line, transfer to Ninth and Polk street. Line No. 19, north bound, get off at Clay street and walk ^ block Tvest. Services, Sundays 8 a. m., 9:45 a. m., 1 1 a. m., 8 p. m. Week day services announced. TRINITY CATHEDRAL OF THE HOLY GREEK RUSSIAN. Eastern Orthodox Catholic Church. Van Ness avenue and Green street. Presidio and Ferries car (Union street line) to Van Ness avenue and Walk a block north; or Ninth and Polk street car. Line No. 19, to Green street, and walk a block west. 1 20 Handbook for San Francisco Services, Saturdays at 7 p. m. ; Sundays and holy days, 1 a. m. and 7 p. m. HEBREW. Temple Emanu-EL 4 1 4 Sutter street, between Stockton and Powell. Porvell street cable to Sutter street; or Sutter car. Lines /, 2 or 3. Services, Fridays at 5 p. m. ; Saturdays at 10 a. m. Temple Israel. Congregation Sherith Israel. California and Webster streets. California street cable car; or Sacramento street cable to Webster and Sacramento, if Tvest bound, and walk a block south, or to Webster and Cla^ if east bound, and walk two blocks south; or take Sutter and Jackson car. Line No. 3, or Fillmore and Sixteenth car. Line No. 22, or Fillmore and Mission car. Line No. 23, to corner of California and Fillmore streets and walk ^ block east. Services, Saturdays at 10 a. m. Gear"^ Street Temple, Congregation Beth Israel. Geary, near Fillmore. Cear"^ street municipal car line, or O'Farrell and H^de street line to Fillmore and walk ^ block north; or Fillmore and Six- teenth car. Line No. 22, or Fillmore and Mission car. Line No. 23, to Cear^ street. Services, Friday at 5:30 p. m., and Saturday at 9 a. m. In winter the Friday services are at 5 p. m. LUTHERAN. First English Lutheran. Geary street, between Gough and Octavia. Geary street cars; or Ellis and Ocean, Line No. 20, to Gough street, and walk a block north if you were on a car bound westward, or two blocks north if on a car of this line bound eastward. Services, preaching every Sunday at 1 I a. m. and 8 p. m. Churches and Divine Service 121 Evangelical Lutheran St. Pauls Church. Eddy and Gough street. Turk and Eddy car. Line No. 4; if east hound get off at Cough street and Tvalk a block north. Services, Sundays at 10:45 a. m. and 8 p. m. The morning service is always in German. The evening service on the first and third Sundays in the month is in English, second and fourth Sundays in German. METHODIST EPISCOPAL. ; First Methodist Episcopal. Clay and Larkin streets. Sacramento street car to Larkin, and if traveling westward, walk a block north; if traveling eastward the car goes to the church; or take California street car to Larkin and walk ^^o blocks north; or Jackson street car to Larkin, and if traveling westward walk two blocks south, if eastward, one block south; or Ninth and Polk car. Line No. 19, to Clay, and walk a block east; or O'Farrell, Jones and Hyde street car to Clay and Walk a block west. Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. Central Methodist Episcopal. OTarrell and Leavenworth streets. Montgomery and Tenth street car to O'Farrell; or O'Far- rell street cable to Jones and walk a block west; or Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20; or Hayes and Ellis, No. 21, to Leavenworth, and walk a block north; or Geary street Munici- pal Railroad to Leavenworth and walk a block south; or Ninth and Polk street car. Line No. 19, to O'Farrell and walk two blocks east. Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. California Street Methodist Episcopal. California and Broderick streets. California street car to Broderick; or Turk and Eddy car. Line No. 4, to California, and Walk a block west; or Mission and Richmond car. Line No. 24, to California, and walk a block West. 122 HandbooJf for San Francisco Services, Sundays 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m., in summer, and 7:30 in winter. Grace Methodist Episcopal. Twenty-first and Capp streets. Valencia street car. Line No. 9, on Market street, to Trven- tV-first street, and walk a block and a half east; or Howard street car, no number, to Trvent^-first street, and walk half a block T^cst; or Mission street car. Line No. 18, to Twenty- first street, and walk half a block east; or Fillmore and Valen- cia street car. Line No. 23, to Twent])-first street, and walk a block and a half east. Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:30 p. m. PRESBYTERIAN. Calvary Presbyterian. Jackson and Fillmore streets. Jackson street cable, no number, starting from Powell and Market, to Fillmore street; Sutter street car on Line No. 3, or any car west bound on the United Railroads transferring to Fillmore street, north bound; or Union street car, no number, and transfer to Fillmore, south bound. Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. The former home of this church was on the site of the St. Francis hotel. First Presbyterian. Van Ness avenue and Sacramento street. Sacramento street cable, no number, to the door, if west bound; if east bound, get off at Van Ness avenue and Walk a block south; or take Jackson street cable, no number, start- ing from Powell and Market, to Van Ness avenue and walk three blocks south; or California street line to Van Ness and Walk o. block north; or any west bound trolley such as the Hayes street Line No. 6, Turk and Eddy No. 4, or McAllis- ter No. 5, or any other Market street line, transfer to Ninth and Polk street. Line No. 19, north bound, get off at Sacra- mento street and walk a block "west. Services, Sundays 11 a. m. and 7:30 p. m. Churches and Divine Service 123 St. Johns Presbyterian. Arguello boulevard (First ave- nue) and Lake street. Turk ^"^ Eddy car. Line No. 4 ; or Sutter and California, Line No. I, to Arguello boulevard (First avenue) and walk a block north; or Mission and Richmond cross town car. Line No. 24, which passes the door. Services, 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. Sundays. Trinity Presbyterian. Twenty-third and Capp streets. Valencia street car. Line No. 9, to Twenty-third street and Walk two and a half blocks east; or Mission street car. Line No. 18, to Twenty-third street and walk half a block east; or Howard street car, no number, to Twenty-third street, and half a block west. Services, Sundays 11 a. m. and 7:45 p. m. UNITED PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH OF NORTH AMERICA. First United Presbyterian Church. Golden Gate avenue between Steiner and Pierce streets. McAllister street car. Line No. 5, to Steiner and walk a block north to Golden Gate avenue; or Turk and Eddy No. 4 to Steiner and walk two blocks south; or Fillmore and Six- teenth, No. 22, to Golden Gate avenue and walk a block and a half west. Services, Sundays at 1 1 a. m. and 7:30 p. m. ROMAN CATHOLIC. 5^ Marys Cathedral. Van Ness avenue and O'Farrell street. Ellis street car. Line No. 20 or 21, to Van Ness and O'Farrell; or Ninth and Polk street car. Line No. 19, (can be reached by transfer from cars of the United Railroads run- ning east and west) to O'Farrell and Larkin streets and walk two blocks west. The Geary Street Municipal Railroad crosses Van Ness avenue a block north of the Cathedral. Sunday services: Masses, 6, 7, 8 and 9:30 a. m., with High Mass and sermon at 11. Vespers, with sermon and 1 24 Handbook for San Francisco benediction, at 8 p. m. Musical services are confined to High Mass and Vespers. St. Mar^^s. Grant avenue and California street. California street cable to Grant avenue; or Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentuck"^, Line No. 16, to California street and Tvalk a block west. Sunday services: Masses at 6:30, 8, 9, 10, 10:45 a. m. ; 12:15 and 8 p. m. High mass is at 10:45 a. m. On weekdays there are masses at 6:30, 7 and 8 a. m. This is the oldest church in the city except the Mission Dolores. 5/. Francis of Assisium. Columbus avenue and Vallejo street. Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, to Broadwa'^ and Columbus avenue, and Walk northwest a block; or Union street car (Presidio &• Ferries, no number), to the door. Services, (now held in the temporary wooden church ad- joining on the west) Sundays and holidays of obligation. Mass at 6, 7:30 and 9 a. m. ; High Mass and sermon at 10:30; Vespers, sermon and Benediction of the Blessed Sac- rament, 7:30 p. m. Daily Mass at 6:30 and 7:30 a. m. ; evenings devotion at 7:30. This was the original cathedral. St. Patrick's, 744 Mission street, between Third and Fourth. Any car on Mission street, or any Mission street car by trans- fer; or Geary street municipal line, east bound, transfer to Third and get off at Mission; or Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, or Third and Kentucky car. Line 16, and get off at Mission; or Ellis and Ocean No. 20, to Fourth and Mission and Walk half a block cast. Services: Sundays, Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 a. m., and 12m.; Holy days, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 a. m., and 12m.; week- days, 6 and 7 a, m. Evening devotions on Sundays, Holy days of obligation and First Fridays, 7:45 p. m. St. Patrick's also provides a night worker's mass at 2 a. m., Sundays, for newspaper men and other night workers. Churches and Divine Service 125 St Ignatius. Hayes and Shrader streets, one block from Golden Gate Park. Hayes and Ellis car. Line No. 21 ; or McAllister No. 5 to Shrader and rvalk tivo hlocf^s south. Services: Sunday Masses, 5:00, 5:45, 6:30, 7:30, 8:30, 9:30, 10:30 a. m. ; Sunday evening, 715, Beads; 730, Ves- pers; 8:00, sermon or lecture; 8:30, Benediction. Daily Masses, 5:00, 5:45, 6:30, 7:15 and 8:00 a. m. St. Boniface. (German.) Golden Gate avenue, between Jones and Leavenworth. Take any Marl^et street car to Jones and walJ^ a block north; or TurJ( and Eddy No. 4 to Jones, and if rvest bound, tvalk trvo blocks south, if east bound one blocl^. Sunday Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 a. m. ; evening services at 7:30. Week day Masses at 6, 7 and 8:15. Mission Dolores Church. Sixteenth and Dolores streets. Take Market street car. Line No. 8, transfer at Church to Fillmore and Sixteenth, Line No. 22, south bound, and get off at Sixteenth street; or take Ocean View (Guerrero) Line No. 10 or 26 (running on Mission street, down town) to Six- teenth street and walk ^ block west. Masses on Sunday at 6, 7:30, 9, 10 and 11 a. m. Masses are said in the new structure behind the old Mission, and a very beautiful new church is rising on the corner be- side it. Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe. Broadway, between Powell and Mason. '*Bay and Taylor, Powell and Market,'' cable to Broadway and Mason streets and walk half a block ^^sf; or Kearny and Beach Line, No. 15, to Powell and Broadway and walk half a block Tvest. Sunday services at 6:30, 7:30 and 10:30. Evening Ves- pers at 7:30. Every day. Mass at 7 a. m. 1 26 Handhoof^ for San Francisco St. Dominic s. Pierce and Bush streets. Sutter and California car. Line No. /, or Sutter and Cle- ment. No. 2, to Pierce street and Tvalk a block north; or Fill- more and Sixteenth, No. 22, or Fillmore and Valencia No. 23, to Bush street and Tvall^ trvo blocJ^s tvest; or California street cable to Pierce and ivalk two blocks south; or Turl( and Edd^ No. 4, or Mission and Richmond, No. 24, to Divisadero and Bush streets, and walk two blocks east. Services; Sundays and holy days, Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 a. m. ; week days at 6, 7 and 8 a. m. Evening services, every evening in the year at 7:45 p. m. This church has the largest and finest organ in the west. 55. Peter and Pauls (Salesian Fathers). Grant avenue and Filbert street. Kearny and Beach car. Line No. 15, to Filbert street and Walk ^^0 blocks east; or Union street line, (Presidio and Fer- ries, no number) to Columbus avenue and Union street, and Walk a block ^"^ ^ half east and a block north. Services: Sundays and holy days, Masses at 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10:30 a. m. ; Vespers and Benediction at 7:30 p. m. Wednes- day services, Masses from 6 to 8 a. m. Special devotions on First Fridays. SWEDENBORGIAN. Second New Jerusalem Church. Lyon and Washington streets. Sutter and Jackson, Line No. 3, to Lyon street, and walk half a block south; or Turk and Eddy, No. 4, to Lyon and Sacramento street and walk two blocks north; or Califor- nia street cable to Lyon street and walk three blocks north. Services at 1 1 :30 a. m., Sunday. This is one of the beauty spots of San Francisco. UNITARIAN. First Unitarian. Geary and Franklin streets. Geary Street Municipal Railroad to Franklin; or Ellis street car. Line No. 20 or 21 , to O'Farrell and Franklin and walk Theaters 127 a block north; or Sutter street, Nos. /, 2 or 3, to Franklin and Walk two blocks south. Services at 1 1 a. m. Sundays. In front of this church is the tomb of Thomas Starr King, who was pastor during the Civil War, and whose eloquence in his nation's cause was said by Lincoln to have saved Cali- fornia to the Union. Tomb and church were alike removed to their present location from a site farther down on Geary street. THEATERS. Few modern cities have contributed more to the advance- ment of the stage than San Francisco, with its discriminating taste, its ready rewards for what is sound and good in the drama, and its cordial appreciation of its stage favorites. In early days the greatest actors were drawn to California. Edwin Booth was content to be a barn-stormer where he could get no better houses. Lawrence Barrett and John McCullough were the first managers of the old California Theater. David Belasco is a native of San Francisco and was stage manager of 'The Baldwin." M. B. Leavitt conducted the Bush street theater for 1 5 years following 1 882. Al Hayman began his theatrical career in San Francisco. William A. Brady was born here and began his theatrical career in this city. Blanche Bates made her first appearance at Stockwell's Theater, in San Francisco. Edna Wallace Hopper was born here and educated at the Van Ness Seminary. David War- field, a native of San Francisco, worked as head usher in the Bush street theater, and made his first appearance at the old Wigwam. Vaudeville developed its best form in this city, and the San Francisco Orpheum is the mother theater of the famous *'Or- pheum Circuit," which supplies vaudeville entertainment 1 28 Handbook for San Francisco in Chicago, New York and a hundred other cities throughout the United States; and which has affiHations all over England and Scotland. The Orpheum was first built on its present site in 1887, by Gustav Walter, who had been successfully conducting a music hall called *'The Fountain" in the Thurlow block, on Kearny street, and the Germania Gardens, in the Mission. Ethel Barry more and Sara Bernhardt have appeared on the Orpheum stage. The present house was dedicated on April 1 9, 1 909. Probably the theater that stands highest today in the affections of San Franciscans is the Tivoli, on Eddy street near Mason. It has furnished both opera bouffe and grand opera to two generations, under such circumstances of homelike simplicity and comfort that it has become an intimate part of the life of the city, and the reopening of the theater in its new home on March 12, 1913, with Andreas Dippel's Chicago Opera Com- pany, and Tetrazzini singing Gilda in Rigoletto, was one of those heart-warming events that have done so much to make the new city one with the old. The Tivoli had its origin in the old Vienna Gardens, on Sutter street near Stockton, next to the synagogue, the Temple Emanu El, in the centennial year of 1876. The house had been built in Boston and shipped around the Horn in sections for Judge Burritt, and afterward became the home of Dr. A. J. Bowie. Here F. W. Kreling and his sons, Joe, William, John and Martin, conducted a place of entertainment, where people could sip beer and smoke and enjoy "variety," long before the days of vaudeville. Prospering, the Krelings wanted a larger house than the one that had come in a ship, and built it on the Eddy street lot, in 1877. How the old Tivoli looked from without, you can see by the bronze relief on the west wall of the vestibule of the present one. In 1 895 regular grand opera seasons were instituted. In 1903 the Tivoli moved across the corner to the old cyclo- Theaters 129 rama building rebuilt as an opera house. Here Tetrazzini sang Gilda to roof-raising applause, which sent her forth with a San Francisco triumph to her credit — and San Francisco's judgment of her was confirmed by the world. After the fire she came back to sing, as a mark of gratitude, in .the streets of the city that had first acclaimed her, and on the completion of the new Tivoli she again appeared in the role in which a discriminating San Francisco audience had recognized the rise of a new star. There are no old theaters of any consequence in San Fran- cisco. The new structures have all been built under the most exacting safety regulations, and are better equipped and more modern in every respect, with stout steel frames, fire-proofed walls and plenty of exits. In decoration, the best of them are unsurpassed. The following list will give the principal down town play- houses and their locations: Alcazar. O'Farrell street, between Powell and Mason. Performances every evening; matinees Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Standard plays are presented by a good stock company. Prices, 25 cents to $1 ; box and loge seats, $1.50. Columbia. Geary and Mason street. Performances every evening, with matinee Wednesdays and Saturdays. Many of the country's leading musical and dramatic companies are booked at this house. Prices vary with the character of the entertainment, but commonly run from 25 cents to $2. The Cort. Ellis street near Stockton. Performances every night, matinees Wednesdays and Saturdays at 2:30. High class musical and dramatic productions. Prices, 50 cents to $2. Empress. Market street, between Fifth and Sixth. Vaude- ville. Three performances daily; matinee at 2:30; evening, 7:15 and 9:15. There are four performances on Sunday. Prices 1 0, 20 and 30 cents. 1 30 Handbook for San Francisco Orpheum. O'Farrell street, between Stockton and Ppwell. Vaudeville. Performances every afternoon and evening. Prices, 1 to 75 cents, box seats, $ I . Pantages. Market street, opposite Mason. Vaudeville. Three performances daily; matinees at 2:30; evening, at 7:15 and 9:15. Four performances on Sunday. Prices, 10, 20 and 30 cents. Savo^. McAllister street near Market. A home of musical comedy. Performances every evening; matinees Saturdays and Sundays. Prices, 25 cents to $1. Tivoli Opera House. Eddy street, between Powell and Mason. The home of light and grand opera, the former at popular prices. During the light opera season the prices are 25, 50 and 75 cents, with box seats at $1. G. M. Anderson, of moving picture fame, is building, oppo- site the Orpheum, a theater for high-class musical comedy such as the sort presented by the Winter Garden, in New York. The best of talent will be organized into a local stock com- pany. It will be known as the Gaiety. The prices are to be moderate — from 25 cents to $1. PUBLIC AUDITORIUMS. There are four auditoriums in the residence district west of Van Ness avenue that are the scene of gatherings too large for the ordinary downtown halls. Here are their locations, and directions for reaching them on the cars, from the down- town district. Auditorium. At Page and Fillmore streets. Hay^es street car. Line No. 6, to Oak and Fillmore and "Walk a block south. Coliseum. Baker street, between Oak and Fell. Ha^es street car. Line No. 6, to Balder street. Dreamland Rink- Steiner street near Post. Sutter street car. Line No. 1 or 2, to Steiner street and Tvalk Sight-Seeing Auto Cars 131 south; or Cear^ street Municipal Railway to Steiner and walk a block north. Pavilion Rinf^. 2 1 89 Sutter street, corner of Pierce. Sutter street car. Line No. I or 2. SIGHT-SEEING AUTO CARS. Sight-seeing automobiles leave Market street between Third and Fifth daily at 10 a. m., and 2 p. m. At 1 p. m., they make a trip to Chinatown. They can also be found at the Ferry and on Powell street near O'Farrell. The daylight trip, as at present conducted, can be recom- mended as a comfortable way to see some of the most inter- esting parts of the city, such as Golden Gate Park, the Cliff House vicinity. Pacific Heights, the Presidio and the Exposi- tion site at Harbor View. The price is $1 a passenger, and the time required is about two and a half hours. MONUMENTS AND LANDMARKS— THE BANK EXCHANGE . San Francisco is a city of romance and riches and hence, also of monuments. There are many fine ones that keep alive pride in the place and its stirring history. The Donahue monument at Bush, Battery and Market streets, by the sculptor Douglas Tilden, is about on the line of the original water front, the edge of the bight known as Verba Buena Cove, which swept around from Montgomery streets at Jackson, swung across Sansome street between Cali- fornia and Pine, crossed the pavement surrounding the mon- ument, just to the west of the pool, and ran thence below First street and eastward to Rincon Point, the tip of which lay a little east of the corner of Harrison and Spear streets. 132 Handbook for San Francisco THE DONAHUE MONUMENT, MARKET STREET. The monument will well repay a visit to it. Its bold imagery and fine feeling for the subject of human labor well directed are distinctively western in spirit. The cove was filled with the spoil from the grading do^vn of the sand hills of the city, and all east of the line we have described is made ground. That is why on the south side Monuments and Landmarl^s 1 33 of Market the numbered streets do not begin until after the point opposite the monument is passed, going westward. At Clay and Montgomery, one of the recently erected land- mark bells that are supposed to indicate the route of El Camino Real, the Highway of the King, marks the old landing that was there "when the water came up to Montgomery street." The next monument up Market street is Lotias Fountain, presented to the city by Lotta Crabtree, a stage favorite of early days. On the shaft is a bronze tablet, put there to com- memorate one of those typically San Franciscan occasions, the Christmas eve of 1910, when Luisa Tetrazzini sang in the open air at this point to a crowd estimated at 1 00,000, out of affection for the city that had shown her the first great pub- lic appreciation. The fountain dates from 1875. The tablet, designed by Haig Patigan, the sculptor, was unveiled March 24, 1912. This is the scene of an annually recurring open air music festival. Chambellan, Pasquali and other great artists sang at this point on Christmas eve 1911 and 1912, and Kubelik, the violinist, has played here. At the corner of Mason street is another good thing by Tilden, the so-called ''Native Sons Monument,'' dedicated to the Native Sons of the Golden West by former Mayor James D. Phelan. It commemorates the admission of Cali- fornia into the Union in 1850. More of Tilden's work stands at the foot of Van Ness avenue, about opposite the Masonic Temple building. This is the Soldier's Monument, erected by the citizens of San Fran- cisco to the California Volunteers in the Spanish war. At City Hall avenue and McAllister streets stands at pres- ent a bronze statue of Hall McAllister, "A Leader of the California Bar." It is by M. Earl Cummings. Marshall Square, opening from the north side of Market street opposite Eighth, to the site of the City Hall, is adorned by the James Lick Monument to the Pioneers, executed by Frank Happersberger, a San Francisco sculptor. 1 34 Handbook for San Francisco This monument is worth visiting for its fine portrayals, in reHef, of Western Hfe and illustrations of California history. On the Market street side of the Lick monument is a highly ornamented bronze cannon taken from the Spaniards at San- tiago de Cuba. One of the elevations beyond the end of Market street, known as Mount Oly^mpus, is surmounted by a colossal statue of Liberty, erected by the late Adoph Sutro. Golden Gate Park contains many fine statues. A monu- ment to William McKinley, representing "Peace,*' the work of Robert L Aitken, stands at the entrance to the Panhandle. Another to Francis Scott Key, author of the Star Spangled Banner, just to the southeast of the Music Concourse, was given by James Lick; it is the composition of the late W. W. Story, the famous American sculptor. The Ball Player by Douglas Tilden attracts much attention. Near it is a figure of Robert Burns, by M. Earl Cummings. Maj. Gen. Henry W. Halleck, who was acting secretary of California during the military occupation of early days and who became commander in chief of the United States Army from 1 862 to 1 864, is represented by a bronze bust by G. Conrades. There is also a bust of General Grant by R. Schmid. There is a life size bronze of Thomas Starr King, the San Francisco clergyman that represented the cause of the Union during the Civil War, not only in California but in England as well. It is by the famous sculptor D. C. French. Junipero Serra, with uplifted cross, father of the California Missions, is a commanding figure. This is by Douglas Tilden. Then there is the Goethe and Schiller monument, by Lauch- hammer, the Prayer Book Cross on the height, designed by Ernest Coxhead, and commemorating the first English religious service on the coast; the monument to Garfield, by Frank Hap- persberger; and the Wine Press, by Thomas Shields Clark, in front of the Museum; one of the most enjoyable bits of humor in the Park. Monuments and Landmarks 1 35 The Stevenson monument in Portsmouth Square, surmounted by the golden galleon and bearing on its face the quotation from his Christmas sermon, is the design, in general, of Bruce Porter, a San Francisco artist. The galleon was modeled by George Piper. This was the first monument ever erected to the author, whose memory San Franciscans have taken to their hearts since his sojourn here as of one of their native sons. The inscription reads: To Remember Robert Louis Stevenson. To be honest, to be kind, to earn a little, to spend a little less — to make upon the whole a family happier for his pres- ence — to renounce when that shall be necessary and not be embittered — to ^eep a few friends, but these without capitu- lation — above all, on the same grim condition, to k^ep friends with himself, here is a task for all that a man has of fortitude and delicacy. Portsmouth Square (see index) was one of Stevenson's loafing places. Here he found interesting bits of the city's life and human character, while enduring his poverty with just that fortitude of which the stone now speaks and "keeping friends with himself on the same grim condition" that he laid down the others. In Washington Square, between Union and Filbert, Stock- ton and Powell streets, is one of the series of Cogswell monu- ments, with a statue of Benjamin Franklin. A fine thing by M. Earl Cummings is the bronze figure of the old man drinking from his hand at the pool in the little triangle of green cut off from this park by the slant of Columbus avenue. In Union Square the Dewey monument, San Francisco's Column of Victory, by Robert I. Aitken, celebrates the battle of Manila Bay. In the downtown section of the city so few old landmarks survived the fire that those which did escape are the dearer 1 36 HandbooJ( for San Francisco for their rarity. There were some residences on Russian Hill, some old houses in the Fort Mason military reservation, in one of which Senator Broderick died of the wound he received in a duel with Judge Terry in 1 859 ; the Appraisers' building on Sansome street between Washington and Jackson; the old Parr oil building at the northwest corner of Montgomery and California streets, built in 1852, of granite shaped aid squared in China and put up in San Francisco by Chinese workmen; the Temple Emanu El, on Sutter street, whose towers once bore the turnip-shaped Oriental domes that became a sort of insignia of San Francisco in every typical picture of the city ; St. Fran- cis' church at Columbus avenue and Vallejo street, built in 1859, and "Old St. Mary's" at California street and Grant avenue, built in 1854, "0/J St. Marys,'' as most San Francis- cans affectionately call it, is the oldest church edifice in the city, except the Mission Dolores. It succeeded St. Francis' church as the cathedral, and was the scene of the labors of Arch- bishop Alemany, whose portrait appears in one of the stained glass windows of the vestibule, opposite that of Padre Junipero Serra. Here the fine copy of Murillo's Immaculate Con- ception, flanked by a St. Michael and an Annunciation, help produce a most devotional atmosphere, just where the com- mercial part of the city meets the Chinese quarter. On Nob Hill, in California street between Mason and Cushman streets, is the brown stone mansion that formerly be- longed to James C. Flood, the Comstock millionaire. Some- what enlarged, it is now the spacious and beautiful home of the Pacific Union Club. Besides these, there is the Montgomer]) Block, on the east side of Montgomery street, between Merchant and Washington, which, through some strange freak of the air drafts, entirely escaped the flames. It dates from 1853, having been built by the law firm of Halleck, Peachy, Billings & Park. The first named member of the firm became distinguished later as Major General Henry W. Flalleck, the original of the statue in Golden Gate Park. Monuments and Landmarks 137 "TREASURE ISLAND." I 38 Handbook for San Francisco Coppas restaurant, with its black cats and Bohemians on the walls, and other vagaries of the artists that foregathered there, was in the southern or Merchant street corner of the Montgomery Block. And in the northern corner still remains one living, organic relic, not merely of the city that was, before the great fire of 1 906, but of the older mining-camp city of the "fifties" — the Ban}^ Exchange saloon, with its old steel en- gravings, its pavement laid in 1 852 of marble slabs that came around the Horn, its walnut bar whose front moulding has been worn down to one smooth bevel by the coat-sleeves of the count- less bankers, brokers and adventurers that have rested there for their social glass, its Wedgwood handled beer pumps, its sedate mirrors, its silver bell wine-cooler, souvenir of the days when "Bell of Moscow" champagne was the favorite tipple of its frequenters. This has been no common bar. In its day it was a focus of activity in the seething young city. It was in the heart of town. William Tecumseh Sherman had a bank nearby. It was while crossing the corner in front of the Bank Exchange on May 14, 1856, that James King of William was shot down by James P. Casey — a murder that led to the uprising of the Vigilance Committee of that year. Before the Stock and Exchange Board was organized in 1862, the Bank Exchange was the rendezvous of the stock brokers, and here they transacted most of their business. Law- 3'ers, doctors, engineers, members of the professions, dropped in to meet the leading men of the young community and hear the news of the day. Bret Harte and Mark Twain knew this place well. In later days a dark, thin-faced, quiet man came to haunt a certain corner. Usual^ he stood at the west end of the bar with his back against the wall, in conversation by the hour with E. J. Moore, attorney for Adolph Sutro. The thin man was not much of a talker, but he was a grand listener, and here he absorbed the lore of what he later declared to be the most romantic city in America. His lodging during part of The Old Cemeteries 1 39 the time was just across the corner, at 8 Montgomery avenue — Mrs. Hunt's. You can not find it, tor the building of the Fugazi Banca Popolare Operaia ItaHana stands on the site. But that a place of so much local atmosphere and such asso- ciations should have escaped the searching mind of Robert Louis Stevenson is not to be imagined. The financial center has moved away from Washington and Montgomery streets. The Bank Exchange is close pressed by the Latin quarter. An Italian syndicate owns the building. But right at his post behind the slab of sleeve-worn walnut, in spite of the earthquake and fire and the changes of time, you may find Duncan Nicol, with his recollections, and his old-time skill, and his pince-nez hung on his ear, less bar- keep' than apothecary, compounding the same tried prescriptions that gladdened the ways of the past. LONE MOUNTAIN, AND THE OLD CEMETERIES From various heights the visitor sees, in the northern part of the city and about on the median line of the peninsula, a rounded hill, surmounted by a tall cross. On the slopes of Lone Mountain, many of the great adventurers that built San Francisco made their last camp in the west. About it, on ell four sides, lie those dim old gardens of the dead, Calvary, Laurel Hill, and the Masonic and Odd Fellows cemeteries. Some, in places, have gone partly back to nature. Burial in them was prohibited by the Board of Supervisors in 1900, and in 1912 the Board declared its intention to order them vacated. But while they remain they are worth a visit for their associations, their surroundings, and the softened and winsome beauty that time has put upon them. Lone Mountain rises to a height of 468 feet, between St. Rose's avenue on the north, (one block south of Geary street), Turk street on the south. Masonic avenue on the east and Parker avenue on the west, within the quadrangle formed by 1 40 Handbook for San Francisco the four old burial places. It affords one of the finest views of the city. To ascend, the best approach is at the south- west corner, which can be reached by taking the Geary Street Municipal Railrvay to Parser avenue, and walking a block, south, or the McAllister street car. No. 5, and rvall^ing a block north. The cemeteries about it can be reached by the same cars — Laurel Hill cemetery more conveniently by taking the California street cable to Presidio avenue, or a Sutter street car. Lines I or 2, which pass the entrance. The prospect from the top of Lone Mountain is an almost uninterrupted cyclorama of San Francisco. It was of Lone Mountain that San Francisco's poet, Bret Harte, wrote: This IS that hill of awe That Persian Smdbad saw, — The mount magnetic ; And on its seaward face, Scattered along its base. The wrecks prophetic. This IS the end of all; Sun thyself by the wall, O poorer Hindbad! Envy not Sindbad's fame: Here come alike the same, Hindbad and Sindbad. Qalvary, the Roman Catholic cemetery, lies on the eastern buttress of the hill, between Geary and Turk streets. Masonic and St. Joseph's avenues. All about it the city bears the stamp of perennial, striving youth; but here is a place conse- crated and apart, where one feels the past; and the sweet peace of age. Weathered headstones totter in the shade of ancient willows and cypress, and the air is perfumed with the breath of lupins and old Castilian roses. At the eastern end you will find the family vault of W. S. O'Brien, of the bonanza mining firm of Flood & O'Brien; of William Sharon, where Mrs. Sharon lies, though he is buried The Old Cemeteries 141 in Laurel Hill ; of the Dunphys, the Shirleys, the De Laveages ; and the tomb of Peter Donahue, connected with such early industrial enterprises as the founding of the Union Iron Works and what is now the Northwestern Pacific Railway, and his son, James Mervyn Donahue, who gave San Francisco the monument to "Mechanics" that greets the visitor at Bush and Battery streets. Even here they offer hospitality in the city of their pride, for one can mount by granite stairs to the roof of the Donahue mausoleum and get a close view of one of the most populous parts of San Francisco. Laurel Hill, known to the older San Franciscans as Lone Mountain Cemetery, lies on the north flank of Lone Moun- tain, between California street, Presidio and Parker ave- nues, and the south side of the private property lying to- ward Geary street. The California street cable line ends at its northeast corner, and the Sutter and Clement line. No. 2, passes its main entrance on Presidio avenue at the head of Bush street. It is cpen from 7 a. m. to 5 p. m. "Lone Mountain Cemetery," as Laurel Hill is still called by the older San Franciscans, is peculiarly the necropolis of San Francisco, and the repository of many historical data. On stone and mausoleum are chiseled memorials of all stages of the city's life. Here is the grave of Edward Gilbert, first editor of the "Alta California." Near the southeast corner of the cemetery is a plain shaft bearing the inscription: Thomas J. Nevins. The Board of Education and Citizens of San Francisco unite in erecting this monument to his memory as the Founder of Common Schools in this City and State, and as the first Superintendent of Common Schools in San Francisco. Here are souvenirs of that great uprising of the "people in arms," the Vigilance Committee of 1856. Up Greenwood avenue, past the lodge and just beyond the grave of Mortimer Fulton, "Chief Engineer of the Pacific Mail Steamship, Golden Age," who died in 1856, is a small hill encircled with an 1 42 Handbook for San Francisco iron fence overgrown by its laurestina hedge, with a white obelisk to James King of William, whose murder by James P. Casey provoked the resort to extra-legal public defense. Near by is the grave of Col. Richardson, the victim of Charles Cora, hanged by the Vigilantes with Casey. They hanged Cora largely because they feared that the eloquence of his counsel. Col. E. D. Baker, killed at Ball's Bluff during the civil war, and also buried in Laurel Hill, might secure him an acquittal. One tomb is worthy to be a shrine of childhood; that of Robert B. Woodward, the shrewd and kindly Rhode Island Yankee that made a fortune providing rough comfort for miners and ranchers in the old *'What Cheer House ^ at Sacramento and Leidesdorff streets, and put a large part of it into a fairy- land for children in "the Mission." Old timers that got their money's worth at his homely hotel, and San Franciscans of this generation whose childhood recollections are the brighter for memories of Woodward's Gardens will recall his name with affection, though both gardens and hotel are gone. Here also is the tomb of Dr. Hugh H. Toland, founder of Toland Medical College, which he "transferred by uncon- ditional gift to the University of California, and thereby estab- lished its Department of Medicine," and of Elias Cooper, "who founded Cooper Medical College, A. D. 1872"; now the medical department of Stanford University. Thos. O. Larkin, Silas W. Sanderson, Lorenzo Sawyer, Horace Hawes, A. A. Sargent, Hall McAllister, John F. Miller, are some of the familiar names in politics and the law. Col. John W. Geary is buried here, the last Alcalde and first Mayor of San Francisco. The family tomb of Milton S. Latham, one of California's early governors is one of the finest in this cemetery. Capt. Joseph L. Folsom, who first suggested the name of "San Francisco" for the little hamlet on the bay shore, is buried in Laurel Hill. Arthur Page Brown, architect of the Ferry building, a man that profoundly affected the style The Old Cemeteries 143 of architecture in San Francisco, found his last resting place here. There are names well known in finance, such as William H. Dimond and Peder Sather; and Isaac Friedlander, whose monument bears a sheaf of wheat in token of the part he played in the world movement of the cereal when San Francisco saw the grain ships leave her port at the average rate of one a day. Here again are great names of the Comstock epoch: William C. Ralston, who founded the Bank of California and built the Palace Hotel, and William Sharon, United States Senator, and genius of ore milling; and Senator Fair, partner of John W. Mackay. On a knoll amid the more important mausoleums is a mon- ument to Senator David C. Broderick, that "Senator of the Fifties" who was killed in a duel with Judge Terry in early days, and over whose bier Col. E. D. Baker pronounced a notable funeral oration. The western spirit of democracy speaks from the stone, which bears the name of Broderick between the words "Mechanic" and "Senator." At the far western end are German, Scandinavian and French plats ; and the graves of three Japanese sailors, to which the march of events in the Pacific have given a peculiar his- torical interest. The headstone of the central one reads: In memory of Me-Nay-Kee-Tchee, who died May 20, 1860. A Japanese sailor attached to Steam Corvette "Candinmarrah," the first Jap- anese vessel that visited any foreign port. This monument is erected by order of the Emperor of Japan, by Charles Wolcott Brooks. Odd Fellon)s Cemetery lies directly west of Lone Mountain, between Parker avenue and Arguello boulevard, Turk and Geary streets. The columbarium is a beautiful structure, in a buoyant and joyous spirit, with a fine dome, good mosaics, and an interior illuminated by stained glass windows some of which are of a high order of merit. The two galleries of alcoves are designated, on the first tier, by the Greek names of the winds, and on the second by the names of the constel- lations as they appeared at the hour of the dedication of the building. The architect was B. J. S. Cahill. 1 44 Handbook for San Francisco Masonic Cemetery lies south of Lone Mountain, between Turk and Fulton streets. Masonic and Parker avenues. There are some fine mausoleums here, especially the Wieland tomb in the southwest corner. A humble grave contains the dust of Emperor Norton, that strange figure of the older city, whose only empire was in his own touched brain and the hearts of his San Francisco subjects. By far the most quaint and interesting object in this en- closure is the grey granite pyramid, about eight feet in height, toward the southeast corner, marking the grave of Hugh Whit- tell, pioneer. Its naive inscriptions read: All you that chance this grave to see, If you can read English may learn by me. I traveled, read and studied, mankind to know. And what most interested them here below. The present or the future state and love of power. Envy, fear, love or hate occupied each wakeful hour. All would teach, but few would understand. The greater part know little of either God or Man, Love one another, a very good maxim all agreed. Learn, labor and wait, if you would succeed. In the five divisions of the world I have been. The cities of Peking and Constantinople I have seen, On the first railway I rode before others were made, Saw the first telegraph operate, so useful to trade. In the first steamship the Atlantic I crossed. Suffered six shipwrecks where lives were lost. In the first steamer to California I did sail. And went to China by the first Pacific Mail, After many endeavors my affairs to fix, A short time I will occupy less than two by six. MISSION DOLORES. Located on the west side of Dolores street, between Sixteenth and Seventeenth. Open every day from 1 a. m. to 5 p. m. Market street line. No. 8, transfer at Church street to Fill- more and Sixteenth line. No. 22, and get off at Sixteenth street. This is San Francisco's only very old building, interesting Mission Dolores 45 as a memorial of the first white men on the peninsula and interesting also for some of the graves in the little vine-tangled cemetery under its south wall. The Mission was established in 1 776, the year of the Declaration of Independence, no echo of which, we may sup- pose, reached it for years, and then merely as an affair of ORIENTAL SECTION PORTOLA PARADE, PASSING MISSION DOLORES. a foreign people. Junipero Serra blessed and consecrated it as the northernmost of the California missions ; although others v/ere established at San Rafael and Sonoma several years afterward. The building itself dates from 1 782. The walls are four feet thick, built of adobe, the sun-dried bricks of the Spanish pioneers, as the deep embrasures of the windows show. Two circumstances indicate that it must have been considered the most important of the niissions ; its main altar is the finest among 146 HandbooI( for San Francisco them all ; and it bears the name of the founder of the Franciscan order, San Francisco d' Assisi, to which order had been entrusted the civilizing of California. Against the northern wall is a large painted screen, built in sections, symbolizing the doctrine of the Holy Eucharist. This screen was placed in front of the altar at the celebration of the Eucharist, once a year. Near the entrance, set in the red- baked tiles of the floor, is the marble slab that marks the tomb of the Noe family, Spanish grantees and grandees of the days "before the Gringo came." There are three bells in the facade, hanging by ropes of plaited rawhide ; two are cracked, and one has lost its tongue. These, though mute, are the Mission carillon of which Bret Harte wrote: Bells of the past, whose long-forgotten music Still fills the wide expanse, T ingeing the sober twilight of the present With color of romance, I hear you call, and see the sun descending On rock, and wave and sand. As down the Coast the Mission voices blending Girdle the heathen land. Borne on the swell of your long waves receding, I touch the farther Past, — • I see the dying glow of Spanish glory, The sunset dream and last! Before me rise the dome-shaped Mission towers, The white Presidio ; The swart commander in his leathern jerkin. The priest in stole of snow. Once more I see Portola's cross uplifting Above the setting sun; And past the headland, northward, slowly drifting, The freighted galleon. The ceiling and ceiling beams retain the decorations of red and white paint the Indians put on them over 1 00 years ago. Within a short while after its founding the Mission had 814 Indian communicants. The Rev. Walter Colton, in his "Three Mission Dolores 147 Years in California," says that in 1825 its wealth had grown to 76,000 head of cattle, 950 tame horses, 2000 brood mares, 84 fine stud, 820 mules, 79,000 sheep, 2,000 hogs, 456 yoke of oxen 18,000 bushels of wheat and barley, $33,UUU in merchandise and $25,000 in cash. Today all that the residents of the neighborhood know of Indians is what they have seen INTERIOR OF THE MISSION DOLORES. Weidner, photo. of them in Wild West shows, or read behmd the lid of the desk in school. Very few representatives of the Spanish fami- lies of the valley are left; and the old establishment finds itself pressed upon by such modernity as the ball park, the High School, the Swedish Tabernacle and the Norwegian Lutheran church. ... ^ , . „ Among the myrtle vines and tottering willows of the cemetery are three graves of especial interest for their association with San Francisco history. 1 48 Handbook for San Francisco One is the tomb of Don Luis Antonio Arguello, first gov- ernor of Alta California under the Mexican regime; born in San Francisco, in 1 784, and brother to that Concepcion de Arguello whose sad romance with the Russian, Resanov, Bret Harte and Gertrude Atherton have embalmed in verse and story. Another is "Sacred to the memory of James P. Casey, who departed this life May 22, 1856; aged 27 years." The inscription in no way discloses the grim fact that on that date he was hanged by the Vigilance Committee at Fori Gunnybags on Sacramento street, for the murder of James King of William. And another stone is "Sacred to the memory of James Sullivan, who died by the hands of the V. C. May 31, 1856, aged 45 years." This inscription is not literally true, although it might have been, for this was "Yankee Sullivan," world's champion pugilist of his day, who suffered the solitude of his plank cell in that same Fort Gunnybags, and heard the grim conferences, and the midnight alarms, and the guards moving to and fro, and the prisoners brought in and taken out again, until terror bested him and he killed himself. The great parade of the Portola festival of 1909 was halted before the Mission, while the modern representative of Don Caspar de Portola saluted the modern representatives of the Padres. In the parked space in front of the Mission is a bell marking the road as El Camirio Real, the "Highway of the King" ot Spain. It is the road of the Franciscan monks and the sol- diers of Portola, the route of travel from the Mission at San Diego. Up this long way they came, in cassock and in cuera, in cowl and morion, advancing the sway of the Cross and the frontiers of the King, through the Salinas valley, by Monterey and up the San Francisco peninsula, and their route is dotted with missions — San Gabriel, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, San Miguel Archangel, San Antonio de Padua, Soledad, San Carlos, Carmel, Santa Clara, San Juan Bautista, Santa Cruz and many more. The sign board declares that this is the Golden Gate Park 49 "Mision de los Dolores, dedicated to San Francisco de Assisi, Oct. 9, 1 776." Here, then, we have the origin of the name and the beginning of San Francisco, almost at the end of the northward march of the Padres. CHILDREN'S PLAYGROUXD, GOLDEN GATE PARK. GOLDEN GATE PARK. From Stanyan street, three miles westward to the Pacific Ocean, and from Lincoln Way on the south 2,500 feet north- ward to Fulton street; with a "Panhandle" a block wide, be- tween Oak and Fell streets, carrying the Main Drive eastward eight blocks to Baker street. Turk &' Edd^ car. Line No. 4; McAllister No. 5, Ha-^es No. 6; Haight No. 7 ; or Geary Street Municipal Railroad, marked A. This is the great park of the United States, the crowning achievement in providing the people of a city with gardens and forests and lakes and streams and waterfalls of their own. ^0 Handbook for San Francisco ON STOW LAKE, IN GOLDEN GATE TARK. ^''^^'^' ^^*'^''" Golden Gate Park 151 within city limits. Nothing Hke it in extent and in loveliness exists in any other American municipality. There are 1013 acres in this Park, and the area contains long drives, walks, lakes with row boats, hills with fine pros- pects from their summits, nine baseball diamonds, six baseball fields, a dozen tennis courts, handball courts, a bowling green, the most completely equipped children's playground to be found anywhere, a thirty-acre stadium, with a trotting horse speed- way 60 feet wide and an infield for all sorts of field sports; bear, deer, buffalo, kangaroo, elk, Alaskan moose, the largest windmill in the world, the only vessel that ever sailed through the Northwest Passage, and thousands of varieties of plant life, from the Pulu fern of Hawaii to the Norway maples that take on autumn tints in spring — for the Park corresponds and exchanges with every botanical garden of any size in the world. Here one sees the healthy life and leisure of the community. San Franciscans use their park. The drives swarm with fine equipages, fast motors, and ruddy-faced lovers of good horse- flesh bound for the speedway in wire-wheeled sulkies. Youth rides the bridle paths. Groups of children are rolling and tumbling about the lawns, for there is not a "Keep-off-the Grass" sign in the whole thousand acres. The Main Drive, including the part in the Panhandle is 4^/2 miles long. There is usually a surrey near the Stanyan street entrance that will take you around the drives at the rate of a dollar an hour, and another at the Eighth avenue gateway. Automobiles for Park service are to be had from any of the downtown hotels, or auto livery stands. But if you would see the Park properly, walk. Take a day for it and you will wish the time were longer. Entering by the Main Drive from the Panhandle, you pass, on your right, the pretty stone and tile-roofed lodge of the superintendent, John McLaren, to whom is due most of the credit for the transformation of the sand dunes into this place of beauty. McLaren is recognized abroad as one of the great park managers of the world, and has been put in charge of 1 52 Handbook for San Francisco the landscape gardening for the Panama-Pacific Exposition. The Conservatories are worth a visit for they contain a great collection of orchids, palms, ferns, water lilies, cycads, lycopods ctnd a profusion of flowering things too numerous to name. Northeastward of the Conservatories is the Arizona Gar- den, of cactus and yucca and flowering aloe. There is usually a "century plant" in bloom here. The North Ridge drive swings around from behind the conservatories, and opposite its junction with the Main Drive the trail takes ofl" to the left, for the Aviary. Here are gor- geous pheasants, cockatoos, Alaskan ptarmigan, great Cali- fornia eagles and a riot of winged life. BUFFALO HERD. Beyond the A.viary, southwestwardly, is the Buffalo pad- dock, containing what "Buffalo Bill" declared to be one of the finest herds of American bison in existence. South of the Buffalo paddock, turn back on the Main Drive to the eastward. At this end of the Park, joined by winding roads, are grouped the tennis courts, the baseball grounds, the croquet grounds, the bowling green, and the children's quarters with the playground apparatus, donkey drives and other juve- nile delights. Simple refreshments are provided here at low prices. Lake Alvord with its fountain is opposite the Haight and Stanyan street entrance to the Park. The Bear garden contains some fine specimens. Nearby, to the westward, is the deer park, and farther on, the Arboretum. Beyond that, still further westward, is the large glen where range fine herds of elk, the noble animal showing here in his perfection, for California is his natural home. Everyone should visit the Memorial Museum. For descrip- tion, see index. Broad steps lead down to the floor of Concert Valley, where, in the elmy shades before the Temple of Music, the Sunday afternoon crowds hear selections by a fine band. Concerts begin here at 2 p. m. on Sundays and holidays. Golden Gate Parl( 53 The Temple of Music is the gift of Claus Spreckels. In the Japanese Tea Garden have been exercised the arts of generations of garden lovers. Tiny rivulets, intricately cramped and baffled in their course, make tinkling water- falls, and then quiet down into turbid little lakes crossed by quaint bridges and stepping-stones. About their margins A BIT OF JAPAN, IN GOLDEN GATE PARK. stand Buddha lanterns of stone and pottery, and old bronze cranes forever peering for fish. Odd-looking Asiatic pines and cedars stretch level arms above. Trees, dwarfed in porcelain jars, have been bent back, bound down, contorted, distorted, artificialized into strange organic pictures and living ornament. If it is Spring, you will catch some of the wonder of the Cherry Blossom festival of Nippon; and with the cherry blos- soms will be those of the flowering quince, peach and plum, cultivated not for their fruit but for the dazzling bloom that sets thick on every bough. 1 54 Handbook for San Francisco Stow Lake, beyond the Japanese garden, is not only good landscape gardening, but quite remarkable engineering. It consists of a broad sheet of water poured around the base of Strawberry Hill, 428 feet high, which is thereby turned into an island, accessible by two bridges. There is a boat house at the lake's western end, where boats can be hired at a nom- inal charge. Two piers here are used by the San Francisco Fly-Casting club. Swans glide on the waters, and during the winter months there may be a thousand old emerald-headed mallard drakes and their sedately garbed mates poking about among the lily pads, secure from the gunner and making fine weather of it. In spring the mother ducks will tow fleets of little ones around the lake after them. From the top of Strawberry Hill the Farallone Islands can often be seen. HUNTINGTON FALLS. Quail abound, and little jewel-eyed rabbits. At the east- ern end of the hill are Huntington Falls, which tumble from a reservoir near the top. Amid the spray at the foot of their descent, in a singularly beautiful nook, grow magnolias, rock maples, and tree ferns. Directly north of Stow Lake boat-house, on a bluff over- looking the Main Drive, stands the Pra'^er Book Cross, of ancient Celtic design. It is a massive piece of masonry, forty feet high, and was erected at the expense of the late George W. Childs of the Philadelphia Public Ledger, under the aus- pices of the Episcopal Diocese of Northern California, to commemorate the first religious service in the English language on the Pacific Coast ; held by Drake's chaplain in 1 5 79 on the shore of Drake's Bay, north of the Golden Gate. Nothing could execeed the delicate beauty of Llo^d Lake, with its graveled margins and flowering banks, its Portals of the Past flanked by Irish yews, and reflected from its shining surface. It is just on your right, near the Main Drive as you travel westward. Golden Gate Park ^^^ "^ The doorway belonged to the A. N. Towne residence, on Nob Hill. One can leave the Main Drive beyond the first bend west of Lloyd Lake, take the bridle path to the left and reach the Stadium, where games and races are held. The bridle path will take you back to the Main Drive near Spreckels Lake, a broad and fine sheet of water, where one can see regattas of model yachts. Following the Main Drive still westward one emerges on the Great Highway, between one of the Dutch windmills and the historic sloop Gjoa, with the U. S. Life Saving Station in the corner just to the northward. THE LARGEST WINDMILL. This windmill at the northwest corner of the Park, is the one first constructed. It cost $25,000 and has a capacity of 30,- 000 gallons an hour in a fresh breeze. Its model is the type used in Holland. The water pumped is fresh, from a strong flow seaward under the Park and the lands adjacent, and the sails lift it into Stow Lake. The other Dutch windmill at the southwest corner of the Park, is the largest ever built. Samuel G. Murphy gave $20,- 000 to construct and equip it. Its two arms are 1 1 4 feet long, or 57 feet from center to tip; of Oregon pine, two feet thick in the middle and eight inches at the ends. It pumps 40,000 gallons an hour. The object of main interest at the west end of the Park is the sloop Gjoa (pronounced Yoah) nested in rock and pro- tected by an iron fence, just inside the Great Highway. This is the only vessel that ever sailed through the Northwest Pass- age, having been navigated on that occasion by Capt. Roald Amundsen, discoverer of the South Pole, who presented her to San Francisco in care of the Park Commissioners on June 16, 1909. We have now traversed the Park in a general way, from one end to the other and indicated its most conspicuous fea- 56 Handboof^ for San Francisco tures. But some of its greatest beauty is in its inconspicuous ones. If you wander back afoot you will discover for yourself more charm and delight than we could ever tell you. It is a "miracle of rare device" and growing more beautiful with every day's work done for its improvement ; the particular pride of the people of San Francisco, the greatest park in America, one of the great parks of the world. TREE FERNS IN GOLDEN GATE PARK. GOLDEN GATE PARK MEMORIAL MUSEUM AND ART GALLERY. Situated in Golden Gate Park, south of the Tenth avenue entrance. Open from 1 a. m., to 4 p. m. ; and on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays until 5 p. m. Admittance free. Turk &• Edd^ car. Line No. 4, to terminus at Eighth avenue and Fulton street; or McAllister street car. Line No. 5 to same point; or Geary Street Municipal Railroad to Tenth avenue entrance. Memorial Museum and Art Gallery 57 If you enter at Eighth avenue, turn to the right, and walk in the direction of the Music Stand, past the monuments to Starr King, Junipero Serra and General Grant. The Museum is in. the Egyptian temple, among the palm trees, on the right. If you enter from the Geary Street Municipal road, at Tenth avenue, go to the left, and pass under the big stone bridge. This museum is the best possible monument to the public MEMOIilAL MUSEUM, GOLDEN GATE PARK. spirit of the people of San Francisco. It has never had a pur- chasing fund, and yet, beginning as a small collection bought with proceeds of the California Midwinter International Expo- sition, held in the Park in 1 894, it has grown by loan and gift until it comprises works of art and specimens of the crafts valued at many million dollars, and relics and documents that are beyond all price. It has a large natural history collection. Its art gallery contains authentic works by Leonardo da Vinci, Dupre, Dau- 1 58 HandbooJ^ for San Francisco bigny, Millet; and copies of some fine works of old masters. A history of San Francisco could almost be written from the contents of its Pioneer HalU brought together by the in- dustry of the curator. Prof. George H. Barron. There are priceless collections of ancient oriental carvings. There are relics of Napoleon that can not be found elsewhere. There are ethnological exhibits from the South Pacific and from Alaska that could hardly have been collected in so short a time at any other city than this focus of Pacific trade. Three thousand people, at this writing, are visiting the build- ing on week days, and over 25,000 on Sundays. The Natural History collection is in the upper galleries. Don't fail to see the cases of butterflies, moths and birds. To the right, on the ground floor, are the Colonial Rooms, and to the left Pioneer Hall, with portraits and mementoes of the Pioneers, and with a complete set of paintings of the Missions of California. Statuary Hall contains some beautiful sculptures by Ran- dclph Rogers, and W. W. Story. The latter's "Saul" is much admired. In the Church Room are carvings, shrines, tabernacles, and a slipper of Pope Pius IX. The BasJ^et Room contains a great collection of Indian basketry. The Mineral Room is extremely interesting, as one would expect in the leading mining state. The Art Galleries contain fine portrayals of California sub- jects, by such local artists as Keith, Thomas Hill, Gamble, Cadenasso, Julian Rix, Theodore Wores, Lucia Matthews, Arthur Matthews, Xavier Martinez, Charles Rollo Peters, Oscar Kunauth, M. Evelyn McCormack, Joseph Raphael, E. G. Stanson, Piazzoni, Tavernier, Neuhaus, Jules Pages and many more that found a peculiar stimulus in California condi- tions and scenes. The room farthest west, of the art galleries, contains some celebrated canvases — "A Saint at Prayer" by Leonardo da Memorial Museum and Art Gallery 159 IX STATUARY HALL, MEMOIUAL MUSEUM. Vinci; a landscape by Charles Francois Daubigny and a "Twilight" by Jules Dupre, and between them hangs a paint- ing of sheep by Jean Francois Millet. There are fine tapestries and ancient furniture in the Tapeslr}} Room. The Armor Room illustrates the evolution of modern arms, and some of the antique armor here is very beautiful. Oriental Hall contains some of the most curious and beau- tiful objects to be found. In addition to exquisite Chinese, Japanese and East Indian works of art, there is the lacquered saddle presented by the Mikado to General Grant; and high on the south and west walls an object of great interest and affection to San Franciscans: the great Chinese processional dragon borne in parades and festivals on the heads of half a hundred swaying Chinese, before the days of the Chinese Republic. Its last appearance was in the Portola parade. Egyptian Hall, Textile Hall, and the room devoted to Ceramics are all very interesting. The Royal Bavarian Pavilion contains the Jewel Holly the ceiling of which is modeled on one in the royal palace at Munich. The carved rock crystals, oriental jade scepters and dagger handles, and other bits of art work are no less than fas- cinating. At the entrance to the Napoleon Room, which contains many authentic relics of the Emperor, is the gold medal 1 60 Handbool( for San Francisco presented to San Francisco by the Republic of France to commemorate the rebuilding of the city. THE SAN FRANCISCO INSTITUTE OF ART. Situated at the southeast corner of California and Mason streets, on the former site of the Hopkins mansion. Powell, California or Sacramento street cars. Open daily, except Sundays, from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Ad- mittance free on Tuesdays and Saturdays; on other days, 25 cents. The galleries offer a treat to art lovers. There are over 300 paintings, statues and other works of art in the collection. Attendance at the Institute of Art and the School of Design here conducted by the San Francisco Art Association is among the largest at institutions of the kind. The Hopkins mansion was deeded to the Regents of the University of California in trust for the Art Association by Edward F. Searles of Methuen, Mass., and became known as the Mark Hopkins Institute of Art of the University of California. It was destroyed by the conflagration of 1 906, but within little more than a year, the Association succeeded in erecting a building on the old foun- dations, and reopened the school with all its departments. In view of the fact that the memorial buildings of the Mark Hop- kins Institute had been obliterated, it was decided to call it thereafter the San Francisco Institute of Art. Among the more notable attractions of the galleries is an unusual collection by the German painters of the last century, including Piloty's painting of "Wallenstein on his Way to the Castle of Egger" ; "Portrait of the Artist," by Franz von Len- bach; two admirable examples of Schreyer's "Arab Horse- men"; and others by Wagner, Weber and Liebermann. The French painters are represented by several drawings and water colors, the work of such famous artists as Berne- Bellecour; Rosa Bonheur, who is represented by a fine paint- Museum of Anthropology 161 ing of a *'Lioness and Cubs"; Meissonier, De Neuville and Millet. There are two landscapes in oil by Pelouse, an ex- ample of Van Marke's cattle, and another by Troyon; the "Call to Prayer" by Gerome, and the "Captives" by Constant. The most important accession to the museum is the Emanuel Walter collection, which came in the nature of a bequest from Emanuel Walter, and represents his gleanings through Europe. The catalogue shows a landscape by Constable, three pieces by Corot, a battle piece by Camphausen, a landscape by Chin- treuil, a head by Van Kaulbach, and other pieces by Bou- guereau, Alma-Tadema, Jean Francois Millet, Gustave Dore, Landseer, L'Hermitte, and many more of note. Paintings by such Californians as Keith, Dickman, Julian Rix and Thomas Hill, including Arthur Matthews' fine his- torical piece, the "Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco by Portola," have been presented by Mrs. Benjamin F. Avery, Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst, Hon. James D. Phelan, Mr. Edward F. Searles and others. The building is temporary. The Institute is to have its permanent home in the civic center. (See index.) MUSEUM OF ANTHROPOLOGY (THE HEARST COLLECTIONS.) Situated in the westerly building of the Affiliated Colleges of the University of California. Admittance free. Open from 10 a. m., to 4 p. m., daily except Monday. The Affil- iated Colleges are on Parnassus avenue opposite Second and Third avenues, with a grand outlook northward across the Park and the Golden Gate. Ha\)es street car. Line No. 6. This is the largest museum of its kind west of Chicago, and one of the most complete anthropological collections in the 62 Handbool^ for San Francisco world. Its existence is due almost entirely to the munificence of Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst, who laid out over a million dol- lars assemblmg it. From Egypt, Greece, Italy and Peru and from all Cali- fornia, there have been brought together over 75,000 objects illustrating "Man and His Work." Costume, habitation, imple- ments, ornament, arms and armor, processes and practices of AFFILIATED COLLEGES, ACROSS GOLDEN GATE PARK. men primitive and civilized, from rearing children to dispos- ing of the dead, all find exemplification here, and the museum administration has adopted the device of giving free Sunday and holidays afternoon lectures at 3 o'clock, to make the under- standing of the subject more general. These lectures are unique. So also is the "revolving ex- hibit" of articles from different departments, on which the lec- tures are based, and which are changed every two months. The present value of the collection is in the neighborhood of $5,000,000. It has been brought together out of the labors Museum of Anthropology 1 63 of such practical archeologlsts as Dr. Reisner, Max Uhle, and Dr. Alfred Emerson, and is under the care of Prof. A. L. Kroeber. The main halls are the Creel^ Hall, the Peruvian Hall, the Revolving Exhibit Hall, the Egyptian Hall, which is also the auditorium, seating about 125 people; and the California Indian Hall, which is the largest of all and contains what is probably the most complete collection of Indian basl^etr}) in existence, including fish traps, storage baskets, head dresses and other rare and interesting examples of Indian weaving. The California Indian Hall contains, besides the basketry, some fine redwood canoes, and the elk-horn wedges with which the primitive workmen split and dug them out. In all the cases hang sm.all maps of California showing the location of the tribes represented by the different articles. On the shores of San Francisco bay there have been over 450 shell mounds, the kitchen middens of Indians that lived here 3,000 years ago. These also have yielded their evidence of life, manners and conditions as they then existed. There are beautiful specimens of ceramics from Greece and Italy, with bits of sculpture, bronze ornaments and pieces of bronze armor of the classic age. The Peruvian room con- tains implements not found elsewhere, and a good collection of Peruvian mummies and mummy jars. There is a singing bird made of clay. To make this museum the more complete, there is connected with it a living example of an "uncontaminated" savage, in the person of Ishi, the Yana Indian from Tehama county. Ishi is the last of a vanished tribe, and has carried into the environ- ment of a modern city the arts that men were compelled to use before civilization touched them. Other Indians build fires and light their pipes with parlor matches. Ishi uses the friction method, and you can see him at it, and understand how our cave-dwelling ancestors had to slave for the roughest necessi- ties. 1 64 Handbook for San Francisco Probably there are very few Indians left in the country that can make a neat arrow-head or spear-head from a piece of flint. Ishi not only flakes arrow heads from obsidian, but even exercises his ancient art on such a refractory material as plate glass, chipping it into slender blades and long points for spear- ing fish. He has also built a dwelling in the grounds to show how it is done — a wigwam of lodge poles and leaves. Ishi is permanently attached to the museum staff, and exhibits his skill for the edification of visitors. This is an extremely valuable museum in an educational way, and contains a great mass of material not classified, from the South Seas, Alaska and other far places. CALIFORNIA DEVELOPMENT BOARD; OFFICE. LECTURE ROOM AND EXHIBITION HALL. Located in the Ferry building, foot of Market street. Open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Entrance free. Visitors welcome. Take an^ car dorvn Market, Mission, Clay or Union street. Here is probably the finest exhibit of fruits to be found. California is a great mineral state, but its orchards alone pro- duce annually more wealth than all its mines, oil wells, quar- ries and cement plants — over $97,000,000. Its vineyards yielded, in 1912, $26,000,000 more. In the same year it grew over $ 1 46,000,000 worth of general farm and garden products, exclusive of the dairy output. Its forest products are worth about $30,000,000 annually. Olives and olive oil gave more than $2,360,000 in 1912. And for size, quality and perfection of appearance the samples on display in the exhibit of the Development Board are unrivaled. The '*pi"ocessing" of fruit in transparent liquids so that it can be displayed in all its ripe perfection originated in California, and is understood by but a few experts here. The result of their scientific skill can be seen at its best in this exhibition hall. The wealth and diversity of the displays are bewildering. California Development Board 1 65 Thirty-six counties send their finest examples of apples, peaches, prunes, nectarines, oranges, olives, pears, apricots, melons, grapes, nuts, corn, potatoes, beets, and similar products — a wider range, owing to the mildness of the California climate over a great sweep of territory, than any other state in the Union can exhibit. The samples are shown in large glass jars or urns, exactly as they grow. Even alfalfa plants have been thus embalmed, so that their size and structure appear as they would in the field. The object near the entrance, which nobody can pass without examination, is the large physical relief map of California. It is I 8 feet long and seven feet wide, and spreads before you all the topographical features of the state, with the whole coast line and all the indentations. This map may enable you to select your future home. "The San Joaquin valley, with seven million acres, and the Sacra- mento valley with four million acres of rich agricultural land, can give to 550,000 families a farm of twenty acres each, ample for their sustenance; to say nothing of the Santa Clara, Salinas, Napa, Sonoma and other rich valleys throughout the state. The rate of increase of California's population during the decade from 1 900 to 1910 was 60. 1 per cent larger than that of any state outnumbering her in population." Yet she has a density of but 15.2 persons to the square mile. Bel- gium has over 600; Rhode Island has 508; Massachusetts has 418; Illinois 100. The Development Board keeps a complete file of Govern- ment agricultural bulletins, and soil and climate reports. It has literature on distribution about the resources and oppor- tunities afforded by various sections of the state, from every county that publishes any. Its annual report is a statistical survey of California, which can be had for the asking. In ad- dition there is a lecture hall, where lectures on various parts of California, illustrated with lantern slides, are delivered every 30 minutes from 1 to 4 o'clock during the afternoon. In 1912 1 66 Handbook for San Francisco the average attendance at these lectures was 500 a day. About fifteen counties send lecturers, to inform prospective settlers of their chances. The Development Board has nothing to sell. The infor- mation furnished is impartial and disinterested, and is based on actual agricultural surveys by experts in the field. Informa- tion on California will be mailed by the Board to persons in- terested, on request. STATE MINING BUREAU, LIBRARY, AND MIN- ERAL MUSEUM. Located in the Ferry building, foot of Market street. Open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Entrance free. Visitors welcome. An}) car dorvn MarJ^et, Mission, Cla]) or Union street. As one of the world's great mining regions, California might be expected to. maintain an important department of mines. And it does. To the tourist, the intending settler, or the experienced mining engineer, there are few places in San Fran- cisco of greater interest than the State Mining Bureau. The museum contains a most valuable and beautiful min- eral collection. There are about 1 8,000 specimens, and they come from all over the globe, and beyond; for almost the first things one sees on entering are three large meteorites, or "falling stars." In the vestibule is a fine exhibit of California structural materials. California has produced over one and a half billion dollars worth of gold since Marshall's discovery at Coloma in 1 848. The year 1852 holds the record for output, with $81 ,000,000. The present yield is about $20,000,000 annually, the largest among the states. Entering the museum one sees a complete working model of a five-stamp ore mill, which runs by electricity. On the walls are pictures of early scenes in the "diggings," with here State Mining Bureau 1 67 and there some such interesting relic as a primitive rocker for washing gold from the sand and gravel. There are pictures of the oil fields, and models of mines. The long cases contain mining and geological specimens of quartz, of uncut diamonds, of nuggets, of beautiful agates, amethysts, tourmalines, beryl, kunzite, jasper, jade, aqua marines, opals, sapphires — all the gems one ever heard of. There is a clear quartz crystal weighing 1 06 pounds. There are rare specimens of leaf and crystalline gold, and of silver found in the form of masses of wire, and in ex- quisitely foliated shapes, like ferns done in frost. There are stalactites tinted with copper to the green shade of falling water, and others that look like growths of bronze. There .s probably no mineral worth the mention that is not represented here. Two glass bell jars cover models of Australian nuggets about the size of small valises. Of the 25,000 visitors that register annually, a very respectable percentage inquires if they are solid gold. They are not. There is also a model of the nugget James W. Marshall found in the race of Sutter's mill on the American river, the little pellet that started the gold rush. One could spend several delightful hours in the mineral museum. In addition, there is the mining and metallurgical library, a quite exhaustive collection of the best works in this field of knowledge, and there is a well equipped laboratory. This is the head office of the state's Department of Mines. UNITED STATES MINT. At the westerly corner of Mission and Fifth streets. Access- ible by Market, Mission or Fifth street cars. Open to vis- itors daily, except on Sundays and holidays, from 9 to I 1 :30 a. m., and from 12:30 to 2:30 p. m. Regularly appointed conductors will take visitors through and explain the processes of melting and coining. 68 Handbook for San Francisco UNITED STATES MINT, FIFTH AND MISSION STREETS. The building is architecturally handsome, designed in the classic style of the Treasury of the United States at Wash- ington, and, like the Treasury, impressing the beholder with a sense of the dignity of the Government. The principal fea- ture consists of the six fine Doric columns, forming a portico, above an imposing pyramid of granite steps. The building dates from 1873, and sustained almost no damage from the fire of 1 906, or from the earthquake. The original Mint building, erected in 1853-4, was on Commercial street. More gold has been coined at the San Francisco Mint since its establishment in 1 854 than at any other in the country, not even excepting Philadelphia, which has been coining since 1 793. At this writing the San Francisco Mint is the only^ one in the country where gold is coined. Over $1,340,000,000 worth of twenty-dollar gold pieces have been minted at San Francisco. Of ten-dollar pieces over $127,000,000 have been produced here; and $120,000,- 000 in five-dollar pieces. About ninety and a quarter thousand gold dollars have been coined at this mint, but few are now to be found except at an occasional money lender's office along Montgomery street. Some three-dollar gold pieces and a large number of quarter-eagles were also made. As this is written. United States Mini 169 the Mint is coining bronze centavos for the Philippines, and will undertake, on contract, to turn out money for any Central American country or Pacific island that has no coinage facili- ties of its own. In the fiscal year 1912 this Mint received over $53,000,- 000 worth of gold. It comes from all over the Pacific Coast and Alaska, some from the Philippine Islands, and even Japan and Australia. The processes are interesting to watch, and visitors are always welcome. The supposition is quite general that a miner, or any owner of bullion, takes it to the mint and reseives the same metal back after it has been converted into coin of the Republic. He does not. What happens is more like this: The bullion is taken to the receiving room, and the owner gets back a receipt for it by gross weight, with nothing said of its value. Thence it goes to the deposit furnaces, where most of the base metal and dirt is eliminated. Back in the re- ceiving room it is weighed, and then goes into a machine that chips a little off each side; and the pieces are assayed to de- termine their fineness. Weight and assay report are turned over to the computers, who by an exhaustive calculation ascer- tain the value. The checks on this process are so complete that all danger of error is eliminated. A warrant is drawn for the amount, less charges for assaying and weighing, and the depositor receives his money on the day following the deposit. The bullion is now the property of the United States. At present little gold is being coined, and receipts of it are likely to be melted down into bricks of about four hundred ounces, worth about $8,000 each, and stored Hke paving blocks in the basement. If the metal is silver it receives this sort of treatment: First the melter and refiner takes the crude bullion and puts it through an electrolytic refining process, which turns it out .999 fine^ and better. It then receives an addition of enough copper to make it 900 one-thousandths fine. In the melting room it is I 70 Handbook for San Francisco run into ingots, which are cleaned in a pickle, smoothed on the edges, trimmed at the ends, and sent back to the make-up room, where the metal is weighed and assayed once more, and delivered to the coiner as good and proper raw material from which to make money. This ingot-casting process makes a fas- cinating scene, with the liquid gold or silver poured, blazing, into the iron molds. The coiner's department takes the ingots and by successive passages through steel rolls reduces them to strips ten to twelve feet long, and com thick. These shining ribbons then go through a machine that punches out the planchetts, or blanks. They look like buttons with the shanks lost. A weigher sits alongside, snatching samples from the hopper as they fall from the machine, and weighing them to make sure that the strip has been rolled enough, and that nobody is going to get too much of Uncle Sam's metal in his money. Annealing and cleaning follow, and a passage through the dryer, whence the blanks go to the milling machine and the presses, to be milled, reeded on the edges, and stamped into legal tender. When gold is coined, stamping is preceded by more weighing, in automatic weighing machines so delicate they have to be encased in glass, and so ingenious that they separate the light and heavies, automatically, from blanks of proper weight. The light-weights are rejected and must go the round again, but the heavies are clamped m a lathe, ten or a dozen at a time, and delicately filed on the edges as they turn. The finished coins are counted by means of boards fitted with fiddles or frets, which keep them in rows of uniform number; and finally they go to the great storage vaults to re- main until called into circulation. The long-continued heavy coinage of gold at San Francisco is intimately connected with the peculiar financial history of California. The people of this state have always preferred coin to currency, and it may have been largely due to their sen- timental regard for the metal their mines produced, that all Court House and Post Office 171 through the Civil War, they conducted their business on a specie payment basis. Private contracts specified it, and gen- eral convention refused to recognize the "greenback" and the "shin-plaster," except at enormous discount. Those interested in numismatics will find in the entrance loom of the Mint a very interesting collection of coins, belong- ing to the Society of California Pioneers; and here, also, is a large collection of medals belonging to the government. In the Pioneers' collection of coins is an oblong bar of gold, bearing the stamp of Frederick D. Kohler, state assayer, and the date 1850. It circulated as money, of the value of $50. These were the days of private minting. Coin was scarce and it was the custom for the San Francisco merchant to keep a pair of balances on his counter, to weigh the gold dust, which passed at a heavy discount. Some more convenient medium cf exchange was needed, and the Mint had not yet been established, so private firms issued stamped ingots, octagonal in shape, which circulated at the face value of $50. In the windows of some of the brokers' offices along Montgomery street there can still be seen specimens of these fifty-dollar "slugs" as they are called, some of them issued by Augustus Humbert, United States assayer, and dated 1851 and 1852. UNITED STATES COURT HOUSE AND POST OFFICE BUILDING. Situated at the north corner of Mission and Seventh streets. Take Market street cars and walk half a block southeast from the corner of Seventh and Market, or take Mission street cars and get off at the corner of Seventh. Probably there is no post office like this in the United States Here you walk through marble halls, and not white marble only, but rich, warm and beautiful Pavonezza, Sienna and Numidian, trimmed with Verde Antique and with col- ored stone from Tennessee and Maryland. The style of treat- 1 72 Handbook for San Francisco ment is Italian Renaissance. Overhead, the ribs of the quad- rinated vaulting are picked out in glass mosaic, and the columns are paneled with it. Some of the United States court rooms are extremely beau- tiful and impressive, and the chambers are finished in a way that can properly be characterized as sumptuous. The building cost two and a half million. The United States Circuit Court of Appeals, for the Ninth Circuit, which sits here, has the widest range of jurisdiction, territorially, of any similar court- in the country. It hears ap- pealed cases from the whole Pacific Coast — Arizona, Idaho, Montana, California, Oregon, Alaska, Hawaii, and even from the United States extra-territorial court in Shanghai. In addi- tion to the Post Office, the structure houses also the court rooms, libraries and chambers of two divisions of the United States District Court for the Northern District of California; of the Master in Chancery; and of many Federal officials. At present the San Francisco Post Office holds about sev- enth place in the United States in respect to postal receipts. Since 1888 these have grown from $665,844, to $2,670,179 for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1912; a gain of more than $2,000,000 a year, or over 300 per cent in the annual totals, in 24 years. HALL OF JUSTICE, CRIMINAL COURTS, MODEL CITY PRISON, PORTSMOUTH SQUARE. San Francisco's Hall of Justice is the handsome grey stone building on Kearny street between Merchant and Washington. To reach it: Take Kearny street cars. Lines No. 15 or 16; or Mont- Somer'^ and Tenth street line (no number). The Sacramento street line, traveling east, runs a block south of it, or trvo blocks south of it when traveling rvest. The Hall of Justice contains the city's four police courts. Portsmouth Square 1 73 and the three criminal departments of the Superior Court of San Francisco County. (Civil departments are in the City Hall.) The courts open at 10 a. m. The building cost over $ 1,1 00,000, and is of the finest steel frame construction. From without it would never sug- gest a thought of the city prison on the top floor, yet here is one of the model jails, said by visiting police officials and cor- rective experts to be the finest thing of the kind in the United States. The Hall of Justice stands on a historic site and overlooks historic ground. Portsmouth Square was the plaza of the early settlement, and was the center of activity. The first custom house was built on the northwest corner of the plaza in 1845, with its north end on Washington street, according to Eldridge, in his "Beginnings of San Francisco," and was used as a barracks on the American occupation. In front of the custom house was the flag pole on which Montgomery, from the sloop-of- war "Portsmouth," raised the American flag. The square was the scene of public gatherings, celebrations, parades, mass meetings, sometimes riots, and all about it were the brilliantly lighted, mirror-walled gambling palaces, where the flush miners craving excitement sometimes lost the fruits of a year's labor in a night; and went back to more toil on the river bars instead of "going home." Here Col. E. D. Baker pronounced his celebrated funeral oration at the bier of Senator Broderick, before a concourse of 30,000 people. Near the southeast corner of Clay and Kearny streets, over- looking the square, Robert Ridley kept a billiard hall, and in it there hung the Vioget map of Yerba Buena, as the town was called at that time. Grants of land were made according to this map, and the name of the grantee was written on it in the appropriate place — so here we have the original hall of records. The Jenny Lind theater overlooked the square from the east, and after it had twice burned and . had been re- built in stone, it was sold to the city in 1852 for a city hall. 74 Handbook for San Fran CISCO ht -Sc-fc, I— ( ' O b o o * j-ILi The Civic Center 1 75 In 1 895 the ground was cleared for the Hall of Justice that was destroyed in the conflagration of 1 906. Before its de- struction, however, the Committee of Fifty, appointed by the Mayor on April 1 8th, met in the basement of the building, on the Merchant street side, on the evening of that day, to dis- cuss measures for the safety of the city. It was the last public use of the building. THE CIVIC CENTER. San Francisco has voted $8,800,000 of bonds through which to provide lands for and help create one of the noblest groups of public buildings in America. The total cost, includ- ing land and construction, will come to about $16,800,000. The site lies in a general easterly direction from Van Ness avenue between McAllister and Grove streets to Hyde; and the median line of it, which is Fulton street, extends a block beyond, to the junction of Fulton and Market. The two blocks between Polk and Larkin, running from Grove to McAllister, form a beautiful plaza, with ornamental shrubbery and a band stand, and about it will be the Muni- cipal Auditorium, Opera House, Museum, State Building, Public Library, and City Hall. The architects for the Civic Center are John Galen How- ard, Fred Meyers and John Reid, Jr. Naturally the dominant feature of such a group will be the City Hall, plans for which were awarded after open competi- tion to the local firm of architects, Bakewell & Brown. The City) Hall will occupy two blocks between Grove and McAllister streets, with one facade on the line of Polk street, and another on Van Ness avenue. The plans show a building covering an area of 300 by 400 feet. The main two facades are composed each of a central pediment carried on columns of the Doric order, flanked by smaller Doric colonnades. The main architectural feature of the building is an immense dome. 76 Handbook for San Francisco ■a rt OS o H 3 ^; w o o > o S o t.W"T'rr--a'a Panama-Pacific Exposition 1 77 1 1 feet in diameter, or 1 4 feet less than the dome of the capifol at Washington, and 300 feet high, or 10 feet higher than the capitol dome. The structure will cost, complete and equipped, about $4,000,000. In it will be accommodated the various offices of the consolidated city and county of San Francisco. At present, the Cit^ Hall is temporarily located in an office building on Market street near Eighth. THE PANAMA-PACIFIC INTERNATIONAL EX- POSITION. At the present writing, the place of most absorbing interest in San Francisco is the 625 acres at Harbor View, Fort Mason and the east end of the Presidio, that is being covered by the courts and exhibit palaces of the Panama-Pacific International Exposition. Until the gates are opened on the completed scheme, the mere physical construction of the gigantic "plant will be an exhibition of stupendous human effort. Visitors will be admitted within the fence for a nominal fee. To reach the center of activity at the Exposition grounds, near the general Service Building: Take any Sutter street car and transfer to Fillmore street, going north. Or, Presidio & Ferries car (Union street line) and transfer to Fillmore. To reach foreign, state and county buildings, in the Pre- sidio : Take Presidio & Ferries car (Union street line) from the Ferry, or on transfer from the O'Farrell street line, and go to terminus. Automobiles can go out Van Ness avenue and turn in at Lombard street. Extensions of present street car facilities will provide many additional ways of reaching the exposition grounds, but these are the direct approaches at present. 78 Handbook for San Francisco Fifty million dollars is a conservative estimate of the amount that will be expended in the construction of this greatest of world's fairs. Over $10,000,000 will be invested in amuse- ment concessions alone. PliAN OF THE rANAMA-PACIFIC EXPOSITION. The celebration of the opening of the Panama Canal in this manner was first suggested at a meeting of the directors of the old Merchants' Asociation in 1904, by Mr. R. B. Hale, then a director of the Association and now a director of the Exposition. On the 28th of April, 1910, over $4,000,000 dollars was subscribed to the stock of the Exposition company in less than two hours by a meetmg that crowded the Mer- chants Exchange to the walls. The total subscriptions of the citizens of San Francisco will approximate $7,000,000. The State of California has appropriated $5,000,000, and the municipal government a like amount. The California counties are raising millions for their exhibits. The officers of the corporation are: President, Charles C. Moore; vice-presidents, William H. Crocker, R. B. Hale, I. W. Hellman Jr., M. H. de Young, Leon Sloss and Hon. James Rolph Jr. ; secretary, Rudolph J. 1 aussig ; treasurer, A. W. Foster ; executive committee, Charles C. Moore, Frank L. Brown, M. H. de Young, Alfred I. Esberg, William H. Crocker, Curtis H. Lindley, A. W. Fos- Panama-Pacific Exposition 79 ter, R. B. Hale, James McNab, I. W. Hellman Jr., and Leon Sloss. The general offices, downtown, are in the Exposition Build- THE WORLD'S EXPOSITION AT THE GOLDEN GATE. I ing, at 2 1 6 Pine street, corner of Battery. In addition to celebrating the completion of the Panama Canal, the Exposition has for a concrete ambition nothing less noble than the advancement of civilization by twenty-five years. The department of exploitation issues this significant "fore- word": The Panama-Pacific International Exposition is a distinctly national undertaking determined upon by the Congress of the United States, and designated by the President of the United States for the purpose of cel- ebrating the opening of the Panama Canal — a national accomplishment that importantly affects the world. In assuming the burden and expense of the Exposition, in response to the call of the President and the Congress of the United States, the people of California are discharging an important public duty and execut- ing a national trust, the accruing benefits of which will be shared by every state in the union and by the entire citizenship of the nation. While this great inter-hemisphere waterway is a national project, it is nevertheless a world's asset, and the celebration of its opening will be participated in by all countries and peoples. The Exposition will con- stitute an international concourse of tremendous significance in its effect upon the natural productivity and commercial activity of all countries, and of the United States m particular. 1 80 Handbook for San Francisco MARKETS. San Francisco is a great depot for the collection and dis- tribution of foods, and her markets are a feature of interest that no traveler should miss. Here can be seen the best of California fruits in their perfection ; such interesting things as the Burbank spineless cactus pear ; the loquat ; oranges, lemons and grape fruit of the cleanest and most beautiful ap- pearance and the finest flavor, the earliest shipments of which go east from Rocklin, 1 I 2 miles northeast of San Francisco. Tropical fruits from the islands are on display. The best-known entrepot of foods in San Francisco, and the most modern and completely equipped in the world is the California Market, running through the block from Pine to California street, between Montgomery and Kearny. This is a large, open, airy place, spacious and clean, where one can see all the different kinds of fish, fruits, flowers, meats and game that can be procured in San Francisco at any given sea- son of the year. The building is new, erected since the fire of 1906, of reinforced concrete, on the site of the old market that was built here in 1867, and has served as a model of sanitation for markets in several other coast cities. The ground floor is devoted to retail trade. The fish booths are interesting, showing in season on their marble counters the finest striped bass, shad, pompano, small fry, Tahoe trout, sturgeon, salmon, soles and sanddabs, crabs and clams. Along the east side are oyster booths long ago grown into full sized restaurants, where the fish is fresh and the cookery skillful. These places have been prime favorites with San Franciscans for almost two generations. It was here, it is said, that the oyster cocktail was invented; the small tooth- some California oyster being especially adapted to this par- ticular form of appetizer. It is below the ground floor, however, that the main activi- ties of the market are carried on. The magnitude of the business transacted here is a thing of which San Franciscans In the Markets 18 themselves know little. One firm of tenants conducts a complete creamery in the basement, which turns out 1 ,000 pounds of butter a day. Upstairs the buttermilk can be had on draught. Two tenants of this market do 80 per cent of the poultry business of the city. One firm sells an average of 3,000 fowls daily. About 8,000 chickens are kept on hand continuously. The transports running to the Philippines, the United States forces at the Presidio and Fort Mason, are supplied from this institution. Beef and mutton are handled on a similar scale. The California Market covers 55,000 square feet of ground, and the investment in land and plant represents three-quarters of a million dollars. The refrigeration machinery and cold storage chambers alone cost over $60,000. Other downtown markets, similarly neat, modern and sani- tary, and also new since the fire, are the Spreckels Market, 751 Market street. Lincoln Market, 877 Market street. Longs Market, 945 Market street. Ba^ City, 970 Market street. Washington, 983 Market street. Some of these do an enormous retail business and are well worth visiting. Besides these, there are two that deserve special mention. If you would see living and moving scenes such as those from which the old Dutch painters wrought their bitumen pictures, leave your hotel about 4 a. m., or earlier, and find your way down through the echoing emptiness of dark streets to the Colombo Market, on Davis street, running through to Front, between Jackson and Pacific. Here come the Italian truck gardeners from South San Francisco and below Hunter's Point, and from San Mateo county, trundling in the day's garden truck and the salad for a city, on gigantic, high-sided carts that loom in the murk like Gargantuan tumbrils with the food for an army. It is a weird scene — the echoing hoof-beats in the vacant streets, the shadowy lines of wagons moving between brick walls broken here and there by a cavernous arch, the 182 Handbook for San Francisco booted and belted teamsters shouting to one another in full- throated Italian, the tons of dimly descried produce dumped in the market under the strugglmg electric lights, the loud-voiced huckstering and chaffering, and after that is done the swarm- ing into the neighboring restaurants for coffee or "vmo" and breakfast, and the final dispersal as the day grows lighter and the uncertain shapes of the night have taken normal form; all go to make a series of tableaux vivaniSy that once witnessed will long remain as one of your most picturesque impressions of San Francisco. Returning to more conventionalized parts of town, arrive by 7 a, m., or earlier, at the San Francisco Wholesale Grotvers^ Flower Market, at 347 Bush street, just below the Stock Ex- change. Here you will find assembled in a dim basement, scores of gardeners and flower dealers, with such an abundance of floral beauty as you will seldom see elsewhere ; for San Franciscans are a flower loving people. It matters not what the season may be, June or December, January or August, there will be a wealth of bloom and it does not have to be protected from freezing, even in the open air. The flower ven- ders along Market street draw a large part of their supplies from this point. The free fish and crab market near Fishermen's Wharf has been sufficiently described in the directions for Trolley Trip No. 3, in this book. SAN FRANCISCO'S YEAR-'ROUND FLORAL EX- POSITION. That sparkling bit of V^anity Fair, the Market street after- noon parade, passes in its course two corners where masses of gorgeous bloom are set like snares for the contents of the passer's pocketbook. Yet the lure is not a serious financial danger. A small amount commands a large gratification. It would hardly be correct to say that everybody buys flowers, Floral Exposition 83 but it is true that everybody that wants them can have them, for the prices are ridiculously small. All the long summer through, and a large part of the winter, 25 cents will buy a cor- sage bouquet of roses, or a spray of carnations and maiden hair, or a cluster of huge chrysanthemums larger and more per- fectly developed than ever grew in Japan. THE OUTDOOR FLORAL FAIR. In February, fifty cents will buy exactly such a mass of acacia bloom as it takes ten dollars to buy in New York. A great, fragrant bunch of violets that will perfume a room can be bought for a dime. San Francisco is the only city in the United States that per- mits flower vending at free street stands, and one of the very few in which the climate would allow these perishable wares to be exposed for sale the year around. Most of the trade is cen- tered at Market and Kearny streets, but the venders are all through the shopping district, and are patronized by all classes. 1 84 Handbook for San Francisco The long-stemmed and odorous Princess violets are espe- cially noteworthy. Possibly the little district of Grasse, in southern France, grows violets as fine as the San Francisco variety, but no other part of the world does. Most of them come from the vicinity of Colma, just across the San Francisco line, in San Mateo county, where some four hundred acres of them perfume the air all through the long blossoming sea- son. From San Francisco they are shipped up and down the coast, from San Diego to Canada, and other shipments go as far east as Kansas City and Chicago. From March to June you will see the satin-petaled, shining glory of California fields and hillsides, the Golden Poppy, called by the Spaniards "Copa de Oro," or Cup of Gold. It is a brave and living thing of fire, making in the valleys pools of dazzling radiance, and in places pouring itself down the western slopes of the coast hills in glowing carpets that can be seen far out at sea. Named botanically for the first naturalist that described it, Eschscholtzia Californica, has been formally and by statute adopted as the State flower. The regular retail florists, doing business in their own stores, make bewildering displays of orchids, lilies of the valley, and poinsettias, showing a prodigal abundance of stock that only a vigorous and general demand would justify carrying. LINCOLN PARK AND FORT MILEY. Lincoln Park is a part of San Francisco no one should fail to visit. It is situated on the heights above Land's End, and northeast of Point Lobos and the Cliff House, and from an elevation of two hundred feet it commands a close view of all the wonderful features of the harbor entrance. To reach it: Take Sutter & Clement car. Line No. 2, get off at 33d ave- nue, and Walk a block Tpest; or, take Sutter and California car. Line No. /, marked Cliff, to 33d avenue. Lincoln Park and Fort Miley 85 LOOKING INTO THE GOLDEN GATE — LINCOLN PARK. If you take time while visiting the vicinity of the Cliff House, it is an easy walk from there. Part of these airy uplands have been laid out by the city for public golf links, where one can play six holes on a north- and-south course, or nine by playing westward from the north- ern-most green, toward Land's End. The links are open to public use without charge. Lincoln Park was once the city cemetery, and considered so far removed from the city that it was given over largely to the burial of the poor, and of a few foreign sailors. Here the Chinese, also, gave their dead temporary interment, before shipping home the bones to lie in the soil of the Celestial King- dom. West of the golf course are two curious structures of brick and cement, forming enclosures open to the sky, with high walls at the west ends. They look like stone beds for giants. These were the mortuary chapels where the Chinese held their final funeral rites, offering the sacrifices of roast pig 86 Handboof^ for San Francisco and fowl, and burning the paper images whose ghosts were to attend the dead. On a hill toward the north stands a monument, "A Land- mark of the Seaman's Last Earthly Port and Resting Place, in which he Awaits the Advent of the Great Pilot." It was erected by Dr. Henry D. Cogswell, to the Ladies' Seaman's CHINESE MORTUARY CHAPEL, IN LINCOLN PARK. Friend Society, and dedicated to Mrs. Rebecca H. Lambert, the society's founder, whose grave is under the cypresses nearby. From the turn of the road just west of this monument is one of the most inspiring views to be found anywhere, em- bracing the Golden Gate and a large part of the city. You are close to the water, and directly opposite the Marin county bluffs, which rise three hundred, four hundred, nine hundred feet, sheer from the waters of the Golden Gate, and have been eroded into rugged canyons and sharply sculptured ridges. You can look north to Drake's Bay, and then, turning to the Lincoln Park and Fori Mi7e\j 187 right, you see Point Bonita, the north headland of the har- bor, Point Diablo directly across, Lime Point with Battery Spencer on the bluff above, the mile-wide opening of the Golden Gate between Lime Point and Fort Winfield Scott, and through the Gate, Raccoon straits, leading into the northern part of the Bay, with Angel Island to right of the channel. Stretching back from the little brick fort are the scarred bluffs of the Presidio, against whose wooded heights are ranged the coast defense batteries, though indistinguishable at this distance. Far beyond are the Contra Costa hills, across the Bay. Still further to the right appears Lone Mountain with its cross, the towers of St. Ignatius church, the heights of Buena Vista Park, the Affihated Colleges on the slope of Mt. Sutro, and before the college buildings the long, dark lane of verdure run- ning westward, which is Golden Gate Park. A bit beyond the line of the Affiliated Colleges, and in the Park, rises the Prayer Book Cross, commemorating the first religious service ever held en the Pacific Coast — that one conducted by Drake's chaplain in 1 5 79 on the shore of the little bay that appears dimly in the north. Lincoln Park is in process of development, but when con- nected with Golden Gate Park and the Presidio by good roads it will be one of the famous parks of the world, for its inspir- ing view can be matched nowhere. Fort Mile^. On the heights above Point Lobos and Land's End, and west and south of Lincoln Park. Accessible from the Cliff House by walking eastward up Point Lobos avenue to Forty-third avenue and then northward to main entrance at Forty-third avenue and Clement street. Or, Take Sutter & Clement car. Line No. 2, to 43d avenue and Walk north. This is a small artillery post, established in 1 90 L and is headquarters for the Pacific Coast Artillery District. The views from the roads here are very fine and command the coast for many miles to the northward. I 88 Handbook for San Francisco FORT MASON AND THE TRANSPORT DOCKS. Take Ninth & Polk streets cross town line, north bound, by transfer from any line of the United Railroads, and go to Lom- bard street. Walk three blocks north and a block T^est. The United States military reservation at Black Point, known as Fort Mason, is one of the many beautiful spots in San Fran- cisco. The view from the bluffs overlooking Black Point Cove, and from the entire water front of the reservation, pre- sents that wonderful panorama of bay and hills and wandering shore-line, of islands, ships and broken coast, of which the lover of the inspiring aspects of nature can never get enough. The Point projects well into the bay, and gives a view from the Berkeley hills clear around to the Golden Gate and through ii out to sea. Fort Mason is the site of the general supply depot of the Quartermaster's Department, the Signal Corps depot, the Medi- cal Supply depot and the army transport wharves. The resi- dences of the Department Commander and his staff are also here. Here is the largest Quartermaster's supply depot in the country carrying general stores. Directly westward are the Panama-Pacific Exposition grounds occupying the floor of the amphitheater known as Harbor View. Just under the bluff to the east is one of the two pumping stations of the city's auxiliary salt water fire protection system, practically a twin of the one at Second and Townsend streets. The Dolphin Swimming and Boating Club, the Ariel and the South End Boating Clubs are just below in Black Point Cove. Projecting northward into the channel, west of the point, are the United States Army Transport Docks, the only transport docks in the country that are owned by the government. These three piers are 500 feet long. The outer ones are 8 1 feet wide, and the center one I 1 9 feet in width, with a rein- Alcairaz Island 189 forced concrete shed 90 by 428 feet, and two lines of railroad track. One or two transports are always lying at these wharves, and visitors will be permitted to board them on application to the superintendent of the service, whose office is in the southeast corner of the pier, up stairs. The best time to visit the docks is on the fifth of the month, when the troop ship departs for Guam and the Philippines. The soldiers, five or six hundred of them, are brought over in the morning from the recruiting camp on Angel Island, and lined up along the dock to receive their mess kits for the voyage. The embarkation, in military order, is one of the sights of the city. Lines are cast off and the vessel leaves the dock promptly at noon. If the fifth falls on Sunday, the transport sails on Monday. In early days Black Point was a choice residence locality, and some of the dwelimgs along the east side of the point which are now occupied as quarters for the officers of the division commander's staff were "mansions" of the elite. In one of them, the old residence of Leonidas Haskell, Senator Brod- erick died of the wound he received in the duel with Judge Terry, in 1 859. ALCATRAZ ISLAND. Alcatraz (in Spanish, Pelican) island, opposite North Beach and Meiggs Wharf, and just within the Golden Gate is the site of the great military prison of the west, and is known throughout the army as "the Rock." This is the Chateau D'lf of America, a place from which, it is claimed, no prisoner ever escaped. It is about 20 acres in extent, and is safeguarded by the racing tides of the Golden Gate which at this point would baffle the strongest swimmer. With its light-house tower and grey prison walls it has a most romantic aspect, from many points on the bay. Military pris- oners are at present confined there, and there are accommoda- 190 Handbook for San Francisco tions for about 600, but it is about to be turned over to the Department of Justice and converted into a Federal penitentiary. The light on Alcatraz is one of the most powerful in the light-house service. It is 214 feet above mean high water and on a clear night can be seen 2 1 miles at sea. SAN FRANCISCO IN BOOKS. San Francisco has supplied the material of a notable liter- ature. Every era of its history has produced its fiction historian, and the life atmosphere has persisted through all vicissitudes. Of this city Bret Harte wrote Gabriel Conroy; Frank Norris wrote McTeague, Blix, Moran of the Lady Letiy and in part The Octopus; and that gentle wizard whose fancy- freighted galleon floats the long years through, above the con- verging paths of Portsmouth Square, wrote his masterpiece. The Wrecker, with its smugglers, its plungers, its thrilling auc- tion of the wreck, on the floor of the Merchants Exchange; its reminiscences of the "What Cheer House" and of the Emperor Norton. On this local institution, the Empire of Norton, begotten of lunacy on the one side and, on the other, of a big-souled char- ity that expressed itself in a touching sort of fun, Stevenson has left us a passage redolent of the literary flavor of the city. He says: Of all our visitors I believe I preferred Emperor Norton, the very mention of whose name reminds me I am doing scanty justice to the folks of San Francisco. In w^hat other city would a harmless madman who supposed himself emperor of the two Americas have been so fostered and encouraged? Where else would even the people of the streets have respected the poor soul's illusion? Where else would bankers and mer- chants have received his visits, cashed his cheques and submitted to his small assessments? Where else would he have been suffered to attend and address the exhibition days of schools and colleges? Where else In God's green earth have taken his pick of restaurants, ransacked the bill of fare and departed scathless? They tell me he was even an exacting patron, threatening to withdraw his custom when dissatisfied a portly, rather flabby man, with the face of a gentleman, rendered unspeakably pathetic and absurd by the great sabre at his side and the peacock's feather in his hat. San Francisco in Books 191 Including such writers as Ambrose Bierce, Bret Harte. Mark Twain, Gertrude Atherton, W. C. Morrow, Gelett Burgess and the Irwins, Wallace and Will, there is a long list of men and women of standing in their art who have sought to translate into letters the peculiar charm of San Fran- cisco. That the visitor's enjoyment of the locality may be heightened by their appreciation of it we give a list of some of them, and the work in which they have interpreted the spirit of the place. The books may be found in the public library or Mechanics-Mercantile, or may be purchased at the leading book stores: By Gertrude Atherton: A Daughter of the Vine; Ancestors; Rez- anof ; The Calif ornians ; Patience Sparharo\; American Wives and English Husbands; The Splendid, Idle Forties. By Geraldine Bonner: Hard Pan; The Pioneer; TomorroTo's Tangle; Rich Mens Children. Gelett Burgess: The Heart Line; Lad^ Mechante. Charles Warren Stoddard: Footprints of the Padres. Gelett Burgess and Will Irwin: The Picaroon. Esther and Lucia Chamberlain: The Other Side of the Door. Arnold Genthe and Will Irwin: Old Chinatown. Sara Dean: Travers. A. M. Douglas: A Little Girl in Old San Francisco. E. E. Green: The City of the Golden Gate. Jeremiah Lynch: A Senator of the Fifties. C. J. Jackson: The Day of Souls. Joseph L. King: History of the San Francisco Stocl^ and Exchange Board. Mrs. Fremont Older: The Socialist and the Prince. Helen Throop Purdy: San Francisco As It Was, As It Is, and HoTo to See It. Earl Ashley Walcott: Blindfolded; The Apple of Discord; The Open Door. Clyde Westover: The Dragons Daughter. Emma Wolf: A Prodigal in Love; Other Things Being Equal. W. C. Morrow: The Ape, the Idiot, and Other People. Chester Bailey Fernald: The Cat and the Cherub; The Gentleman in the Barrel. Ernest Peixotto: Romantic California. For broad and colorful sketching of the city before the fire, one can hardly do better than Will Irwin's The Cily That Was; and for good, vivacious narrative of the reconstruction we commend Rufus Steele's The Cii\) That Is. For the day 192 Handbook for San Francisco of the Spanish pioneer, read Zoeth Eldredge on The Beginnings of San Francisco. John P. Young's history of the city em- braces the entire subject. Very readable San Francisco history runs through Theodore Hittell's History of California, and there is good descriptive matter in Hubert Howe Bancroft's Some Cities and San Fran- cisco. One of the leading sources of local history is the Colonial History of the City of San Francisco, by John W. Dwindle, known as "Dwinelle's Colonial History"; a brief prepared for the trial of an early land title case. There is also a History of the City of San Francisco, by John S. Hittell. Other good books dealing with early conditions or special topics are: The March of Portola and the Discovery of the Bav of San Fran- cisco, by Zoeth S. Eldredge, with which is included The Log of the San Carlos, and other documents translated and annotated by E. J. Molera. The Adventures of a Forty-niner, by Daniel Knower. Men and Memories of San Francisco in the Spring of '50, by Theo- dore Augustus Barry. The Neiv and the Old, by J. W. Palmer, M. D. Lights and Shades in San Francisco, by Benjamin E. Lloyd. Lights and Shadoivs of Life on the Pacific Coast, by S. D. Woods. Seven Years' Street Preaching in San Francisco, by William Taylor. California Life, by the same author. San Francisco and Thereabout, by Charles Keeler. Pioneers of Prosperity, by David H. Walker. San Francisco's Ocean Trade, Past and Future, by Benjamin C. Wright. The Clouds and Fogs of San Francisco, by Alexander McAdie. LIBRARIES. San Francisco has some notable libraries and facilities for historical and scientific research. It has the finest medical library in the West, a Polish library, the largest French library in the United States, and just across the Bay, at the University f Libraries 193 of California, in Berkeley, an important reference collection of 300,000 volumes, including the famous Bancroft library of original historical documents and sources of history for Cali- fornia and the Pacific Coast. The San Francisco Public Library has its main collection, reference and reading room in a temporary building at Hayes and Franklin streets, but is to occupy a monumental public building in the Civic Center. It contains about 135,000 vol- umes. To reach its present location: Take Hayes street car. Line No. 6. At present a visitor may have the privilege of drawing books by filing the proper application for a card, signed by a tax payer as guarantor. Application blanks may be obtained at the main library or any branch. An additional card may be obtained for works other than fiction, which enables the holder to draw two books at a time. Cards expire two years from date of issue. The reference and reading rooms are open to the public from 9 a. m. to 9 p. m. ; Sundays, 1 : 30 to 5 p. m. Mechanics' -Mercantile Library. At 57 Post street, in the Mechanics' Institute building, between Montgomery and Kearny streets. Open from 9 a. m. to 1 p. m. on week days ; and on Sundays and holidays from 11 a. m. to 5 p. m. This is a subscription circulating library. A member may introduce a friend not a resident of the city, who will be allowed the use of the rooms for one month; or non-residents may use the library for a month on payment of 50 cents in advance; but members only can draw books. The terms of membership are: entrance fee, $1.00; quarterly dues, in advance, $1.50; life membership, $50.00. The Mechanics'-Mercantile is next in point of popularity to the Public library, having been formed by the merger of two local institutions that were rooted in the life of the city in early days. Its chess room, a favorite resort of many pio- neers, is headquarters for the Mechanics' Institute Chess and Checker Club. 1 94 Handboof^ for San Francisco BooJ^lovers and Tabard Inn Libraries. At 20 Geary street, near Market. Open from 9 a. m. to 5:30 p. m. The Booklovers is a circulating library of late fiction. Dues, $5.00 a year or 50 cents a month. About 10,000 volumes. The Tabard Inn Library, conducted at the same place, has a slightly different plan. The initial fee of $1.50 entitles the subscriber to the ownership of the first book, which may thereafter be exchanged on payment of a fee of 5 cents. The Paul Elder Library. At 239 Grant avenue, in the rear of the book store of Paul Elder & Co. Hours, 8:30 a. m. to 5 :30 p. m. A library of late fiction. Books are rented at the rate of 2 cents a day, (day of issue but not day of return) minimum charge, 5 cents ; no membership fee. A membership card is isued to each patron of the library, and accepted by the librarian as an identification. No deposit is required if a business refer- ence is given. About 1 ,500 copies of the latest titles. Espe- cially attractive to visitors, as they pay only when they have books out. California State Mining Bureau Library and John Hays Hammond Public Mining Library. In the offices of the State Mining Bureau, Ferry building, foot of Market street. Refer- ence only. Open to the public, free, every day but Sundays and holidays, from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Closed at 12 m. Sat- urdays. Bibliotheque Francaise. 126 Post street, over the Pig 'n* Whistle. Ouverte tous les Jours Excepte les Dimanches et Jours Feries de 2 h. a. 6 h. de I'apres-midi, et de 8 h. a. 10 h. du Soir. Largest collection of French books in this country. Before the fire it had 25,000 volumes, and now has nearly 12,000. Free to visitors, and on the tables will be found the leading French magazines and newspapers. The circulating privilege is obtained on payment of $1.00 entrance fee, and 50 cents a month thereafter. Books may be kept 1 5 days and renewed Libraries 1 95 for a like period. The library dates from 1876, when it was founded with a surplus from subscriptions raised among the French people of San Francisco for the assistance of France in the Franco-Prussian war. Library^ of the Polish Society of California. At 2091 Fif- teenth street. Open Saturdays, from 7 to 8 p. m. Circulating. Visitors welcome. About 500 volumes in Polish and English. San Francisco Law Library. Fourth floor temporary City Hall, Eighth and Market streets. Open week days from 9 a. m. to 10:45 p. m., and Sundays from 10:30 a. m. to 4:30 p. m. ; closes on week days during court vacation at 6 p. m. A free circulating and reference library of 27,000 volumes, supported by municipal appropriation, and fees paid by litigants on suits filed in the Superior Court. Library of the Genealogical Society of California. In the Green Room of the Fairmont Hotel, first floor, at California and Mason streets. A reference library for members only; between three and four hundred volumes on biography, gen- ealogy and history. Open from 9 a. m. to 1 p. m. Library of Leland Stanford Junior University. At Palo Alto, Cal. Southern Pacific train leaving Third and Townsend depot, to Palo Alto, and trolley car from the station. Open during the university term from 8 a. m. to 1 p. m. ; during vacations, from 8:30 a. m. to 4:30 p. m. Closed Saturday afternoons and Sundays. Largely for reference, but has some books that may circulate. To those not connected with the university a fee of $5 a year is charged. The library has 1 75,000 volumes and is growing at the rate of about 15,000 annually. Founded in 1891. Library of the University of California. At Berkeley, across the bay. Southern Pacific or Key Route ferry and suburban electric trains connecting. 96 Handbook for San Francisco A SAN FRANCISCO RESIDENCE PARK. Open during the term from 8 a. m. to 10 p. m. on week days; Saturdays from 8 a. m. to 12 m., and from 7 to 1 p. m. ; Sundays from 1 a. m. to 4 p. m. Vacation hours are from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m. Free for reference. Circulating for professors and students. This library contains about 300,000 volumes, and grows at the rate of 15,000 a year. The new library building is a particularly beautiful composition of white California granite, recently completed at a cost of about $600,000, from funds bequeathed by Charles F. Doe of San Francisco. With its equipment the plant represents an investment of over $850,000. The main reading room is the second largest in the United States. Here is also the Bancroft Library of California and Pacific Coast History. This famous collection of books, pamphlets and original documents is housed in the same build- ing with the Library of the University of California, just to the left, as you enter. On its accumulation the historian Hubert Howe Bancroft of San Francisco expended over $400,000, and it is likely to remain for a long time the principal source of information for students of the history not only of California find the Pacific Coast, but of many other countries bordering on \ Libraries 197 the Pacific. There are about 50,000 volumes, and it is open from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m. Levi Cooper Lane Library of Medicine and Surgery. Web- ster and Sacramento streets. Open daily except Sundays from 8:45 a. m. to 5:30 p. m. Sacramento street cable car, either from the Ferry, or by transfer from the Porvell street cable, changing at Sacramento and Powell streets. This is the library of the Department of Medicine of Leland Stanford Jr., University. It is the largest medical library west of Chicago, and the largest university medical library in the United States, containing 40,000 volumes at present. The building is a five-story structure, dedicated in November, 1912 with the most improved equipment, and capacity for 1 20,000 books. In the reading room are some very beautiful mural paintings by Arthur Matthews. The fees are $5 a year for reference use, and $ 1 for the circulating privilege, with life membership at $ 1 00. The library was founded and the building erected with funds provided by Dr. Levi Cooper Lane and Pauline C. Lane, his wife. Photographic Library. See California Camera Club, under "Clubs and Organizations." Library of the Commonrvealth Club. At 153 Kearny street. A good and growing collection of publications on political, economic and sociological questions. Club rooms open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m., week days, except Saturdays, when they close at 3 p. m. Library of the Bar Association. Pacific Building, Market and Fourth streets. '^-^mti^ 1 98 HandbooJf for San Francisco BOOK STORES, NEW AND OLD. Of good places to buy books in San Francisco these should be mentioned: The shop of Alexander M. Robertson, publisher of many works by California writers; at 222 Stockton street, corner of Union Square avenue, and facing Union Square. Paul Elder's, at 239 Grant avenue, near Sutter. Elder is active as a publisher. John Howell's, at 107 Grant avenue, near Geary. Howell is an importer of fine books and rare old ones. H. S. Crocker & Co., 565 Market. A large store with a large stock. John J. Newbegin's, at 31 1-315 Sutter. Newbegin is also an importer. Western Methodist Book Concern; 5-7 City Hall avenue. Westminster Book Store ; 400 Sutter street, corner of Stock- ton. The White House, department store, at Sutter street and Grant avenue, has a very large book department and its stock of foreign books is said to be the best in the United States. Good book departments are also to be found in the Em- porium, on the south side of Market street between Fourth and Fifth, and at Hale Bros', at the corner of Market and Fifth streets. The city lost a wealth of old libraries in the fire, but still a few find their way into the hands of the second hand book dealers, whose stocks have recently begun to exhibit their former variety. Californiana is growing scarce, but occasionally a good bit rewards a prowl among the old-book stores. Some of the best-known of the second-hand shops and dealers are: The Holmes Company, 70 Third street, south of Market, with another store at 22 1 Market. Wellendorf Book Company, 1 035 Market, near Sixth. Old and new books. The Press [99 King's Book Store, 1716 Market, near Gough. King Bros., new and second-hand 1182 Market, be- tween Jones and Marshall Square. J. H. Cain, 679 McAllister, near Gough. McDevitt's Book Omnorium, 1004 Fillmore, near McAl- lister. C. H. Ryder, Philadelphia Book Company. 1279 Golden Gate avenue, near Fillmore. San Francisco Occult Book Company, new and second-hand, 1141 Polk, near Sutter. French books can be found at the shop of Victor Martin and Charles Poulin, 664 Broadway, between Grant avenue and Stockton street, opposite the Liberty Theater, and at the shop kept by A. Pradels, 1111 Polk street, near Post. German books can be found at Richard Rieger's, 86 Fourth street, and 1320 Fillmore; and at Gustav Schenk's, 2007 Fillmore, near Pine. Italian books are sold at the shop of A. Cavalli & Co., 263 Columbus avenue, above Kearny, and by Unti & Perasso, at 343 Columbus avenue, near Grant avenue. Spanish books are kept by Jose Sanchez, at 639 Vallejo street, near Grant avenue. THE PRESS. San Francisco has had, since its earliest history, a distin- guished press. Its tone has been metropolitan from the begin- ning, but it has also been something more. Vitalizing con- tacts with new conditions, and freedom from conventional re- straints, operated to produced journalists of originality, who acquired national and international reputation. This was the starting point of such writers and newspaper workers as Ambrose Bierce, Frank Bailey Millard, Arthur McEwen, W. C. Morrow, Charles Michaelson, Miriam Mich- aelson, Charles Dryden, Philip A. Roche, Ned Townsend of 200 Handbook for San Francisco Chimmie Fadden fame, James Hopper, Rufus Steele, Daven- port and Edgren, the cartoonists, Earl Ashley Walcott, the novelist, J. O'Hara Cosgrave, who was editor of the San Francisco "Wave" when Frank Norris made it the laboratory of his early efforts, William Melony, "Bob" Davis, Henry C. Rawley, Alice Rix, Annie Laurie, Helen Dare, Kathleen Norris, Adele Brooks; Swinnerton, "Tad," Maynard Dixon and Grant Wallace, the illustrators; Lincoln Steffens and Sam- uel E. Moffett, the publicists, Chester Bailey Fernald, Will and Wallace Irwin, Harrison Fisher, the illustrator, and "Bud" Fisher, creator of "Mutt and Jeff." There were many more; humorists, essayists on the pressing and vital topics of the day, from Bret Harte and Mark Twain to Edward F. Cahill, "Our Candid Friend." Today, this city is an important publishing center, with over 1 50 daily, weekly and monthly publications, representing practically all leading languages; Greek, Hebrew, Italian, Chi- nese, French, German, Russian, Polish. We can not list them ?11, but the leading English publications are the San Francisco Call; afternoon, now published from the Claus Spreckels building at Third and Market streets. This was recently changed to an afternoon paper. Until the change was made it was the oldest San Francisco morning paper. Mark Twain was one of its reporters during his San Francisco days. San Francisco Chronicle; morning, published at Market and Kearny streets. Founded by Charles and M. H. de Young. Some famous writers have served it. Will Irwin was its Sun- day editor for a time, and so was Rufus Steele, now holding the same position on the Call. John P. Young, the well-known publicist, is its managing editor, and the noted literary critic, George Hamlin Fitch, contributes its widely read book reviews. San Francisco Examiner; morning, published at Market, Kearny and Third streets. This was the first Hearst paper in the United States. A^mbrose Bierce contributed his famous column of "Prattle" to its Sunday numbers for several years, Samuel E. Moffett was one of its editorial writers, and T. T. V he Press 201 Williams one of its leading spirits. Arthur McEwen and W. C. Morrow, the author, were part of its staff, as well as Frank Bailey Millard, Earl Ashley Walcott, and Wallace Irwin. Bulletin; afternoon, published at 767 Market street. This is the oldest existing San Francisco newspaper, having been founded in 1855 by James King of William, whose murder the following year led to the uprising of the Vigilantes and made much early history. San Francisco Evening Post; afternoon, published at 727 Market street. The single tax movement in America origin- ated with its founder, Henry George, author of "Progress and Poverty," who established the paper in 1879. News; afternoon, pubhshed at 340 Ninth street. A penny paper of the Scripps-McRae group. Commercial News, morning, published at 330 Sansome street. Shipping and marine intelligence and financial news. Journal of Commerce, afternoon, published at 1 65 Jessie street, corner of Annie. Commercial, financial, shipping, mu- nicipal and general news. Municipal Record, published every Thursday by the Board of Supervisors at the City Hall, 1231 Market street, for the purpose of furnishing information concerning public municipal improvements and the work of the several municipal depart- ments. Nervs Bureau, issued during the noon hour from 88 First street, containing brief presentations of important news, espe- cially financial, for business men at their desks. Recorder, morning, published at 28 Montgomery street. Contains the court calendars, important Supreme court deci- sions, and other information of value to attorneys, together with a page of general news and a column of editorial. Argonaut, weekly, published at 207 Powell street; editorial comment, short stories, selected verse and European corre- spondence. Founded in 1877 by Fred M. Somers and Frank Pixley. The Argonaut is the leading literary weekly of the West, and one of the foremost in the country. It circulates in 202 Handbook for San Francisco every civilized land. Almost every San Francisco writer that has risen to distinction since its founding has sought the public through its columns, and we find among them such names as Gertrude Atherton, Frank Norris, W. C. Morrow, Harry Dam, E. W. Townsend, Jerome A. Hart, Ambrose Bierce, Frank Bailey Millard and John Fleming Wilson. Wasp, weekly, 121 Second street; politics, society, finance, art and theatrical reviews. This was the first paper in the United States to run colored cartoons. Nervs Letter, weekly, 2 1 Sutter street. Oldest existing weekly in San Francisco. Founded in 1856. Political com- ment, financial, society and theatrical news. Town Talk, weekly, 88 First street. Current comment on the amusements and social doings of the city, with interesting sketches of prominent persons. Among magazines there are the Overland Monthly, 21 Sutter street; founded by Bret Harte and built up by the work of many distinguished contributors. The Overland first published "The Luck of Roaring Camp" and "The Heathen Chinee." Joaquin Miller wrote for it, and in its pages first appeared parts of Mark Twain's "Innocents Abroad." Sunset Magazine; monthly, published at 448 Fourth street. Devoted to the literary exploitation of the beauties and resources of California and the West. Visitors will find in its pages most attractive descriptive matter on California, accompanied by fine colored illustrations. Sunset has had a remarkable career. Beginning as a "house organ" of the Southern Pacific Railroad Company it was developed by judicious management, under the editorship of the late Charles S. Aiken, into a maga- zine of the best type, appealing to a wide and general interest. It is doubtful if there is another publication in the West that has done so much to make the West known to the world. In addition there is a number of religious journals, such as the Pacific Unitarian, the Pacific Presbyterian, the Monitor and the Leader (Catholic) , the Hebrew, and Emanu El (Jew- Bankh and Finance 203 ish), the Pacific (Congregational), the Pacific Churchman (EpiscopaHan), the Pacific Christian (Christian church), and the Pacific Methodist Advocate, and fraternal and trade publi- cations too numerous to mention here. BANKS AND FINANCE. Both the cosmopolitan character and the financial strength of San Francisco appear in its banks. Here are British, French, Italian, Portuguese, German, Chinese and Japanese financial institutions. There were in this city at the beginning 1913, 37 banks with 9 branches, showing a total capital, surplus and undivided profits of $80,727,948. The savings deposits of Dec. 31st, 1912, amounted to $189,714,076, the largest on record, and the depositors numbered over half the population. On Feb. 10th, 1913, the deposits had grown to $202,295,143. The aggregate resources of three of the national banks of San Francisco are larger than the aggregate resources of all the national banks in any one of 30 states. In population, San Francisco stands eleventh, according to the census of 1910, but in aggregate resources of all her national banks, she ranks sixth among the cities of the country, being exceeded in this respect only by New York, Chicago, Boston, Philadelphia and Pittsburg. At this writing clearings run over $50,000,000 a week, and for 1912 almost equalled the combined clearings of the next largest six cities of the Pacific Coast. Comparative clearings of these cities for 1912 were as follows : San Diego $ 131,265,154 Oakland 192,71 1,075 Tacoma 218,941,896 Portland 596,327,185 Seattle 602,430,660 Los Angeles 1,167,782,516 Total $2,909,438,486 San Francisco $2,677,561,952 204 Handboof( for San Francisco Clearings for 1913 thus far show San Francisco to be the most important banking center west of Kansas City, and eighth among the cities of the country. The underwriting power of San Francisco has grown tre- mendously in the past few years as one success after another has demonstrated the profitable nature of California develop- ment enterprises when properly conceived and executed. In 1912 this city stood third in the United States in the transac- tions of its bond market, being exceeded in this respect only by New York and Baltimore. The San Francisco Chapter of the American Institute of Banf(ing (section of the American Bankers' Association) is in the eleventh year of its existence and has its office and library at 1 325 First National Bank Building, Post and Montgomery streets. Consonant with their financial strength and the opportunities presented by the destruction of their old buildmgs, the down- town banks of San Francisco are palatially and beautifully housed. Every visitor should make the round of the banks, or at least look in upon them when passing, for they constitute one of the most artistic features of the rebuilt city. Foremost historically, in the financial section of the city, is the Bank of California, National Association, at California and Sansome streets. This institution was founded in 1 864 by William C. Ral- ston and D. O. Mills, and for many years was the most active factor in the financing of ore milling and other operations along the famous Comstock lode, in Nevada. The bank dominated the financial situation in the city during the Comstock mining days of the "sixties" and "seventies," and is today the leading financial institution of the West. In 1912 its total assets were nearly sixty millions. The building is imposing and beautiful. Notice its enormous columns and the color harmonies of its interior. The Wells Fargo Nevada National Bank, at the northeast corner of Market and Montgomery streets, is another historic Banks and Finance 205 institution of the city, one of its elements, the Nevada Bank, having been founded during the bonanza days of the great Comstock operators. Flood & O'Brien, and Mackay & Fair. It long occupied the famous old Nevada block on Montgomery street at the corner of Pine, destroyed by the fire of 1 906. First National Bank of San Francisco, Montgomery and Post streets. The oldest national bank in California. Its beautiful building stands on the site of the old Masonic Tem- ple. Crocker National Bank of San Francisco, Post and Market streets. The building is particularly fine. It survived the fire, structurally unharmed, but the interior was burned out and had to be renewed. Merchants National Bank^ at the corner of Market and New Montgomery streets. Formerly the Western Metropolis National Bank. The Mutual Savings Bank is at 706 Market street, just above Kearny. The Union Trust Company of San Francisco formerly occu- pied the location of the Wells Fargo Nevada National Bank, and erected its present building at Grant avenue and Market streets after the fire. This is one of the chief ornaments of Market street. Savings Union Bank and Trust Company, Grant avenue and O'Farrell streets. The pediment was designed by Haig Patigan. Notice the bronze doors, designed by Arthur Matthews, their panels representing the Indian, the Spaniard, the American and the spirit of the new San Francisco. The reception room of the safe deposit department is decorated with a mural painting of St. Francis, also by Matthews. The Humboldt Savings Bank occupies its own building, an 1 8-story structure, which was in course of erection at the time of the fire and was completed immediately afterward, at 783 Market street. Farther up Market street, at its junction with McAllister and Jones, is the 206 Handbook for San Francisco Hibernia Savings and Loan Society. This is one of the city's oldest and most substantial organizations engaged in the savings bank business. The conspicuous feature of the exterior is the dome surmounting the McAllister and Jones street corner, which is of handsome design and is covered with gold leaf. The classic composition of its single story is most beautiful and effective. INTERIOR OF A SAN FRANCISCO BANK. The German Savings and Loan Society^, at 526 California street between Montgomery and Kearny, is one of the city's important savings institutions and its interior decoration scheme, in dim gold and old ivory tones, is very attractive. The Anglo and London Paris National Bank, at the corner of Sansome and Sutter streets, is one of the city's gems of architecture, a remarkably harmonious and beautiful composi- tion, both in proportions and embellishment. Banks and Finance 207 The Bank of Daniel Me-^er, at 224 Pine street, is an old institution that has had much to do with State development. The International Banking Corporation, in the Mills build- ing, corner of Bush and Montgomery streets, is the San Fran- cisco branch of the main organization, through which it has many Oriental connections. The Italian banks, in the vicinity of Montgomery street and Columbus avenue, are among the finest in the city. These are: Bank of Italy, at Montgomery and Clay streets. The build- ing is a stately structure strictly Italian in feeling, with an interior finished in Sienna marble. This bank has a branch at Mason and Market streets, in the heart of the business district. The Italian American Bank is at Montgomery and Sacra- mento streets. This is a fine building in Italian renaissance style. The two granite columns in front are the largest and tallest monolithic columns in San Francisco. This is the only representative on the coast of the Banco di Napoli. Fugazi Banca Popolare Operaia Italiana. Gore of Mont- gomery street and Columbus avenue. The building is very handsome, the interior finish being of Grecian marble. The Mercantile Trust Company of San Francisco and Mer- cantile National Bank of San Francisco occupy a beautiful building opposite the Merchants' Exchange, at 464 California street, near Montgomery. The French Bank of Savings, at 1 08 Sutter street, does a commercial business also. It is the largest French savings bank outside of France. The Canadian Bank of Commerce is at California and Leidesdorff streets. This is a branch of the Canadian Bank of Commerce of Toronto. Bank of British North America, Battery and California streets. The American head office of this bank is at Montreal, and the court of directors is at London. The Mission Bank is at Sixteenth street and Julian avenue, between Mission and Valencia streets. 208 Handbook for San Francisco The Canton Bank, ^ Chinese institution, is at 653 Kearny street. The Yokohama Specie Bank is situated at the corner of Sansome and Commercial streets. Other banks and trust companies of San Francisco are the American National Bank of San Francisco, Merchants' Exchange building, California and Leidesdorff streets. California Savings and Loan Society, 801 Van Ness avenue. Columbus Savings and Loan Society, 700 Montgomery street. Pacific States Savings and Loan Society, 550 California street. Portuguese-American Bank of San Francisco, Front and Commercial streets. Seaboard National Bank, Market and Steuart streets. Security Savings Bank, 3 1 6 Montgomery. Anglo California Trust Company, Market and Sansome. Donohoe, Kelly Banking Company, Montgomery and Sutter. First Federal Trust Company, Post and Montgomery. Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation, 401 Mont- gomery. Marine Trust and Savings Bank, 100 Market. Swiss- American Bank, 12 Sansome street. SOME FRATERNAL AND ASSOCIATION BUILDINGS. In the rebuilding of San Francisco it became a matter of local pride with associations and fraternal orders to replace their old homes in the manner most creditable to the city. Among directors and boards of trustees there reigned the spirit of civic renaissance, a spirit that was one with the past, but unhampered by it, and that was determined on taking every advantage of this exceptional opportunity to create anew. As a result, the city is graced with some of the finest semi-public Some Fraternal Buildings 209 buildings to be found, structures embodying original design, and new ideas in adornment as well as in facilities for serving their various objects. One of the few buildings in America comparable to some of the good buildings in Europe is the Masonic Temple at Oak street and Van Ness avenue. From the corner of its broad, white walls a canopied King Solomon looks down upon the modern city traffic. It is by Adolph Alexander Weinman, the New York sculptor. The canopy itself is adorned with sculptured angels, and with enshrined allegorical figures, of which the man with the capital represents the Builder; the one with the book. Social Order; the one with the lyre. Reverence for the Beauty of the World; the one with his hands on his breast, Reverence for the Mys- tery of the Heavens. These are by Ralph Stadpole of San Francisco. There are six figures, but two are duplicates. The dominating feature of the exterior is the machicolated parapet, carried around the top instead of a cornice. It is in the style of the one on the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio of Florence, and other structures of that period, and has a medie- val militant suggestion, as of the piety and valor of the Temple Knights whose gilded shields hang on the face of it. The entrance is through a noble portal, under a semi-circular hood supported on corbels formed by the stone figures of lions. Under the ornate receding arches the tympanum shows an allegory in relief, also by Weinman, consisting of three figures of Charity, Fortitude and Truth. Beneath, the lintel bears a row of nine smaller figures, by Stadpole, representing David, Abraham, St. John the Divine, Nathan the prophet, Moses, Aaron, St. John the Baptist, Joseph, and Jonathan. The principal feature of the interior is the great Commandery Hall, 60 feet wide, 72 feet long, and rising from the level of the third story 85 feet to the summit of the dome that one can see from almost every hill-top in the city. The wall spaces are decorated with mural paintings by Arthur Matthews. 2 1 Handbook for San Francisco The architects of the Masonic Temple were Bliss & Faville. Among other fine buildings of this semi-public character are Scottish Rite Temple, Van Ness avenue and Sutter street; Odd Fellows Hall, Seventh and Market; Knights of Columbus Hall, 150 Golden Gate avenue; building of the Native Sons of the Golden West, 430 Mason street; German House, Polk and Turk streets; Elks Hall, 540 Powell street. The Young Mens Christian Association has one of the finest buildings of its kind in the world, at Golden Gate avenue and Leavenworth streets. Here is a large gymnasium with a salt water swimming tank, and there are bowling alleys, handball courts, a billiard room and facilities for all sorts of social gath- erings and receptions. The Young Women's Christian Association has its home at 1 249 to I 259 O'Farrell street, where it maintains a boarding home for young business women, and an employment bureau. To reach it Take an^ Market street car from the Ferry to Fourth and Ellis streets, transfer to Line No. 20 or 21 , get off at Cough and O'Farrell and rvalk half a block west. From Third and Townsend depot take Ellis and Ocean car. Line No. 20, to Cough and walk half a block west. Travelers' Aid secretaries of the Y. W. C. A. meet steam- ers and trains. The Young Mens Institute has its home at 92 Sanchez street. The Independent Order B'nai B'rith, rebuilt on its old site after the fire, at 1 49 Eddy street, between Mason and Taylor, a fine building that is an ornament to the neighborhood. EDUCATIONAL FACILITIES. Early San Franciscans that wished to put their sons in col- lege used to send them to Honolulu, but California has probably advanced more rapidly in the field of education than any other Educational Facilities 211 phase of development, and ranks today in this respect with the most progressive eastern states. The disbursement of State revenue for this purpose is heavier than for all other items com- bined; over $15,000,000 for the biennial period 1913-14. The two great universities and one women's college of the Pacific Coast are situated in suburbs of San Francisco, while in the city itself the best of instruction can be obtained in almost everything teachable, from music to navigation. Instruc- tion in the universities is free to citizens of the State. The public free school system of San Francisco is extensive and efficient, and includes four high schools whose graduates can matriculate at the universities without other examination. This was the first city in the United States to establish a free school of navigation. There is a fine High School of Commerce. The State Nor- mal School at San Francisco is conducted by one of the most progressive educators in the country. The Cogswell Polytech- nic College, the Wilmerding School of Industrial Arts and the California School of Mechanical Arts, (endowed by James Lick), and the Lux School of Industrial Training for Girls, are unexcelled. These are all free schools. There are business colleges, dramatic schools, art schools, and a noted Conservatory of Music. And in the suburbs are excellent academies such as the Belmont School for Boys, at Belmont, the Mt. Tamalpais Military Academy, near San Rafael; St. Matthew's Military School, at Burlingame, and many fine schools and seminaries for young ladies. The professional schools of San Francisco hold high rank. Among them are: Hastings College of the LaTV, 166 Geary street; the law department of the University of California. Hahnemann Medical College of the Pacific, Sacramento and Maple streets; homeopathic. * Leland Stanford Junior University Department of Medicine, (formerly Cooper Medical College), at Sacramento and Web- 2 1 2 Handbook for San Francisco ster streets, with the largest universit}' medical library in the country. University of California Medical department and Hospital (formerly Toland Medical College), at Affiliated Colleges, Parnassus avenue, opposite Second avenue. Here are also the departments of Dentistry and Pharmacy. College of Physicians and Surgeons, 344 Fourteenth street; with Dentistry and Pharmacy departments. Polyclinic Post Graduate Medical Department of the Uni- versity of California, 443 Fillmore street. UNIVERSITIES AND COLLEGES. University of California. At Berkeley, Alameda county; across the bay from San Francisco, and about a 45 minute ride by ferry and suburban electric train. To reach it, Taf^e Southern Pacific ferry or Key System ferry, at the foot of Market street, and Berkeley train at the pier on the opposite side of the bay. The University of California is one of the foremost Ameri- can institutions of learning. Its graduate astronomical depart- ment is the Lick Observatory on Mt. Hamilton, where Bernard discovered the fifth satellite of Jupiter. Its College of Agri- culture was the first agricultural experiment station established in this country, and enlisted the services of such eminent stu- dents of the subject as E. W. Hilgard, long recognized as the world's greatest authority on soils, and E. J. Wickson, a leader and an authority in horticulture. The Le Conte broth- ers, John famous as a physicist, and Joseph as a geologist and one of the earliest teachers of evolution, spent their productive years in the faculty of this university. Frank Norris, the nov- elist, Samuel E. Moffett, the publicist, and Josiah Royce, the philosopher, studied here, and Edward Rowland Sill, the "poet's poet," was an instructor in the English department. Jacques Loeb, the great biologist, was a member of the faculty. Universities and Colleges 213 All over the world — in Alaska, China, South Africa — can be found the graduate engineers of its famous school of mines. Tuition is free to residents of California, the institution being supported by the state and by private endowments. Non- residents of the state pay $10 half-yearly. Expenses in the college town of Berkeley are comparatively light. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY, BERKELEY. The university is coeducational. In 1912-13 the enrollment aggregated 6,457, the largest in the country with the single exception of Columbia. The Summer School at the University of Cahfornia is the largest of its kind, and it attracts more than two thousand stu- dents every year, from all parts of the United States. Among the teachers have been such men as Svant A. Arrhenius of Stockholm; Boltzmann, the Austrian scientist; Hugo De Vries of Amsterdam; John Adam of the University of London; Josiah Royce, Frederick Jackson Turner, Albert Bushnell 214 Handbook for San Francisco Hart, and Barrett Wendell of Harvard; Spaeth and Axon of Princeton; William Lyon Phelps of Yale. The tuition fee is $15, and there are laboratory fees in some of the courses. The site of the University is a noble expanse of 520 acres in the rolling hills of Berkeley, looking over the Bay of San Francisco. The town takes its name from the institution, and the institution from the great transcendentalist, the Bishop of Cloyne. ' ] A day can be spent most profitably and enjoyably, strolling amid the giant oaks of the campus, some of them centuries old, and visiting the library and collections and the famous Hearst Greek Theater. (See Berkeley, in index.) Leland Stanford Junior University. At Palo Alto, San Mateo county, Cal,, 30 miles south of San Francisco. A visit there makes a fine day's outing. To reach it Take Southern Pacific train on the Coast Division, at Third end ToTvnsend depot. There are 21 trains on week da\)s and 1 5 on Sundays, and the trip takes about an hour and five min- utes. This institution is a point of pride with Californians, and although younger than the University of California it occu- pies an equally erninenl position in the world of education. Its great endowment of $25,000,000 has enabled it to attract famous teachers. Its teaching stafF is one of the strongest in the country. It is coeducational, but the number of women students is limited to 500. The university is located on the "Palo Alto Farm" of the late Senator Leland Stanford, by whom and by his wife, Jane Lathrop Stanford, it was endowed in memory of Leland Stan- ford Jr., who died in his sixteenth year. The grounds consist of over 7,000 acres, partly rising into the foothills of the Santa Clara range. All the subjects of a full college course are offered here, and tuition is free except for an Incidental and Guild fee of Universities and Colleges 215 $17 half yearly, and charges in the departments of law and medicine. An adaptation of the mission style of architecture has been employed on the campus with fine effect. The Memorial Church bears on pediment and interior walls, some of the most beautiful mosaics in the world. LELAND STANFORD JUNIOR UNIVERSITY. The Leland Stanford Junior Museum, containing the arch- eological and art collections of the university, is situated a quarter of a mile north and a little west of the Quadrangles. It grew from the collection begun by Leland Stanford, Jr. Here is preserved the skeleton of the great sire of trotting horses. Electioneer, of much interest to breeders. There are also in- teresting collections of Chinese and Japanese art, and the Di Cesnola collection of Greek and Roman pottery. In 191 1-12 the number of students enrolled was 1774, of whom 2 1 6 were graduate students. 216 HandbooI( for San Francisco California is fortunate in having two such universities, each of which is a stimulus to the other. Mills College (formerly Mills Seminary). Situated in the foothill region east of Oakland, about an hour's ride from San Francisco. To reach it. Take Southern Pacific jerry at the foot of Market street, for Alameda pier, and there change to train marked ''Oakland CAMPANILE AT JIILLS COLLEGE, OAKLAND. Fourteenth 5/." (on a red disk) ^hich runs to Fourteenth and Franklin streets, Oakland. At Thirteenth and Franklin, a block south, take the Mills College car (trolley^). Or, take /Cep Sy^stem ferry, foot of Market street, and electric train on the Key System pier, for Trvelfth and Broadway, Oakland. Remain on this car until it gets to First avenue, and there change to Mills College car. Universities and Colleges 2 1 7 Mills is the only college exclusively for women, west of the Rocky Mountains. Its students come from the entire west; from British Columbia to San Diego; from Chicago to Hon- olulu and Japan. Matriculation requirements are the same as for the University of California and Stanford. The college grounds, secluded, yet accessible, comprise about 1 50 acres of charming country, with green lawns, palms, rose gardens, fine woodland and beautiful streams. The institution is the outgrowth of Mills Seminary, estab- lished at Seminary Park, by Rev. Cyrus R. Mills and Mrs. Susan L. Mills in 1871, and modelled on the plan of Mount Holyoke. Dr. Mills and his wife brought the institution from Benicia, where it had existed as a Young Ladies' Seminary since 1852. It became Mills College in 1911. As such, it is recognized the country over as a standard college and was classed by the United States Commissioner of Education in his report for 1910 among the leading sixteen women's col- leges. University of St. Ignatius, at 2211 Hayes street, corner of Shrader, opposite St. Mary's Hospital. Ha})es and Ellis car. Line No. 21. This institution has been in temporary quarters since the great fire, but will soon build at Fulton and Parker avenues, on the block where St. Ignatius church is now rising. It was founded in 1855 and empowered by the state to confer uni- versity degrees in 1 859. Only male students are admitted, and these only as day scholars. Tuition, $50 or $80 a year, according to course. St. Mar})'s College (conducted by the Brothers of the Christian Schools), Broadway, between Hawthorne and Or- chard streets, Oakland. Take Southern Pacific ferr^, foot of Market street, and elec- tric train to Seventh and Broadway, Oakland. There take trolley car running out Broadway. Or take Key System ferry 2 1 8 Handbook for San Francisco and Oakland train n>ith red sign for Trveniy-second and Broad- way, and there take Broadrva'^ trolle'y. St. Mary's is empowered to confer all academic degrees, and is in fact a university without the title. Instruction, board and lodging are at the rate of $1 75 per semester. University of Santa Clara. In the Santa Clara valley, 44 miles south of San Francisco and adjacent to the old mission town of Santa Clara ; a ride of about an hour and thirty-five minutes. Southern Pacific train on Coast Division, to Santa Clara station. This is the oldest chartered institution of learning in the West, having been founded by the Franciscan fathers De La Pena and Murguia on January 12, 1 777. Resident students pay at the rate of $200 per half year term, with a matriculation fee of $15, payable but once, and an athletic fee of $2.50 per term. This covers board, lodging, tuition and laundry. Non-resident fees are less, in proportion. HOSPITALS AND SANATORIA. San Francisco, since early days, has taken high rank for the skill of its physicians and the quality of its medical and surgical facilities. Dentistry and oral surgery have been brought to a high stage of development. Persons requiring surgical operations come to San Francisco from the entire west coast of North and South America. Fine hospital buildings, new, sanitary, and with every mod- ern appliance, have been erected in large numbers since the fire, and under the building laws of the city are, of necessity, of th best modern steel and fire-proof construction. There are few important hospitals in the city are are more than seven years old, and when the owners of the new structures planned them they were able to avail themselves of the best in equip- Hospitals and Sanatoria 219 ment and arrangement that human experience could suggest. Space will not permit us to list all in the city, but these are among the leading institutions of the kind: Adler Sanatorium, northeast corner of Van Ness avenue and Broadway. Children's Hospital, Alexander Maternity Cottage, Train- ing School for Nurses. At 3700 California street, corner of Maple. C//\j and County Hospital. Occupies the block bounded by Potrero avenue and Twenty-second, Twenty-third and Ver- mont streets. This hospital cost $2,000,000 to construct, is entirely new, and is probably the finest municipal institution of its kind. Florence N. Ward Sanatorium. At 1195 Bush street, cor- ner of Hyde. French Hospital, "Maison de Sante de la Societe Francaise de Bienfaisance Mutuelle." Geary street (Point Lobos avenue) between Fifth and Sixth avenues. German Hospital. Fourteenth and Noe streets. Hahnemann Hospital. Northeast corner of California and Maple streets. Lane Hospital. Clay and Webster streets. X-ray, clinical and pathological laboratories under direction of the medical department of Leland Stanford Junior University. Letterman General Hospital. (United States Army) Pre- sidio military reservation. This is the largest American army hospital, and cost approx- imately half a million dollars. There is bed capacity for 500, and the accommodations can be expanded to take care of 1,000. McNutt Hospital, at 1055 Pine street, between Jones and Taylor. Morton Hospital. At 775 Cole street. Employes of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe railway needing hospital services in San Francisco are accommodated here. 220 Handbook for San Francisco Mount Zion Hospital. At 2341 Sutter street, near Divisa- dero. A new building is in course of construction at Post and Scott streets. 5^ Francis Hospital. Bush and Hyde streets. St. Joseph's Hospital. Park Hill and Buena Vista avenues. Conducted by the Franciscan Sisters of the Sacred Heart. 5/. Lukes Hospital. Twenty-seventh and Valencia streets. St. Marys Hospital. Hayes and Stanyan streets, opposite the east end of Golden Gate Park. Conducted by the Sisters of Mercy. Saint Winifred's Hospital. At 1 065 Sutter street, between Hyde and Larkin. Southern Pacific Hospital. At Fell and Baker streets. Exclusively for employes of the Southern Pacific railroad. One of the best railroad hospitals ever built. Trinity Hospital. At 1 500 Page street, corner of Masonic avenue. United States Marine Hospital. On the Marine Hospital reservation adjoining the Presidio of San Francisco. For the care and treatment of seamen from the Merchant Marine. University of California Hospital. Second and Parnassus avenues. This is the hospital of the Affiliated Colleges of the Uni- versity of California. Five emergency hospitals are maintained by the municipality in different parts of the city. They are located as follows: Central Emergency Hospital. Stevenson street, near Eighth. Harbor Emergency Hospital. No. 7 Clay street. Park Emergency Hospital. Stanyan street near Waller, close to the Haight street entrance to Golden Gate Park. Potrero Emergency Hospital. 1 1 52 Kentucky street. Mission Emergency Hospital. Twenty-third street and Po- trero avenue. lelegraph and Express Offices 22 1 TELEGRAPH, CABLE AND EXPRESS OFFICES. Western Union Telegraph Co. Main office. Pine and Mont- gomery. Messages can be telephoned in by calling for "West- ern Union." Always open. American District Telegraph Company messengers furnished at all Western Union offices. Federal Telegraph Co., Merchants' Exchange building; 9 a. m. to 5 :30 p. m. I 49 Montgomery. 7 a. m. to 8 p. m. ; Sundays 1 a. m to 2 p. m., and 4 p. m. to 8 p. m. Marconi Wireless Telegraph Co. of America, Merchants' Exchange building. Office 8:30 to 5:30. Station always open. Postal Telegraph Cable Co., N. E. corner Market and Bat- tery (main office). Always open. EXPRESS OFFICES. Adams Express Co. Tracing, delivery and claim depart- ment, 54 Post street. Wagon and call department. Ferry building. Money orders, travelers' checks, foreign postal remit- tances, money paid by telegraph. Globe Express Co. Tracing, delivery and claim department, 54 Post street. General Superintendent's office. Mills building. Wagon and call department. Ferry building. Money orders, travelers' checks, foreign postal remittances, money paid by telegraph. Wells Fargo & Company. Main office. Second and Mis- sion streets. Money orders, travelers' checks, foreign postal remittances, money paid by telegraph. 222 Handbook for San Francisco SAN FRANCISCO'S PRINCIPAL STEAMSHIP CONNECTIONS. PASSENGERS AND FREIGHT. Alaska Pacific Steamship Company. For Seattle, Tacoma and Alaska. Howard street wharf. Ticket office, 654 Market. Independent Steamship Company. For San Pedro. How- ard street wharf. Ticket office, 648 Market. Matson Navigation Company. For the Hawaiian Islands — Honolulu, Port Allen, Kahului, Kaanapoli and Hilo. Ticket office, 268 Market. North Pacific Steamship Company. For Portland, Eureka, San Diego, San Pedro, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo. Vallejo street wharf. Ticket office, 654 Market, and 3 Market. Oceanic Steamship Company. For Honolulu, Pago Pago and Samoa, and Australia. California and Davis street. Tick- et office, 673 Market. Pacific Coast Steamship Company. For Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, San Diego, Seattle, Tacoma, Victoria, Vancouver and Alaska. 112 Market, 653 Market and Broadway wharf. Pacific Mail Steamship Company. For Honolulu, Japan and China, Mexico, Central America and Panama. Flood building. Market and Powell street. Ticket office, 722 Mar- ket. Pacific Navigation Company. For San Pedro and San Diego. Pacific street wharf. Ticket office, 680 Market. San Francisco and Portland Steamship Company. For Los Angeles, Portland and Astoria. Flood building, Powell and Market. Toyo Kisen Kaisha. For Honolulu, China and Japan. Merchants' National Bank building, 631 Market. Steamship Connections 223 Union Steamship Company of New Zealand. Hind, Rolph & Co., agents. For Tahiti, New Zealand and Australia. 310 California. Ticket office, 679 Market. FREIGHT. American-Hawaiian Steamship Company. For Puget Sound, Hawaii and Salina Cruz, Mexico. Greenwich street wharf and 3 1 Sansome. East Asiatic Companies, Ltd. From Europe via Straits of Magellan. Parrott & Co., agents, 320 California. Harrison Line. For Europe, Los Angeles, Portland, Seat- tle, Tacoma, Vancouver, Balfour, Guthrie & Co., agents. 350 California. Kosmos Line. For South American ports and Europe, 1 58 California street. Lucl^enbach Steamship Company. For New York, via Panama. Merchants' Exchange building, 431 California. Maple Leaf Line. For Europe. E. C. Evans & Sons, agents, 260 California. Pollard Steamship Company. For Grays Harbor, Tacoma, Seattle, Vancouver, Victoria. 244 California. Robert Dollar Company. For China and Japan. 1 60 California. W. R. Grace & Co. (New York and Pacific Steamship Company). For New York, Seattle, Peru, Bolivia, Chile. California and Battery. In addition to the above there is a large number of lumber and other vessels running from San Francisco to various coast ports. CLUBS AND SOCIETIES. In San Francisco, club life presents extraordinary distinc- tion and charm. Out of the marked individuality of the peo- ple and their socially stimulating environment have arisen such famous organizations as the Bohemian Club, the Family Club, the Commonwealth, the Olympic and others. 224 Handbook for San Francisco We can not present a complete club directory, but may mention some of the most distinctive and interesting, as indi- cative of the social condition of the community. Lodge meet- ing notices of all the more important fraternal orders will be found in the daily papers. Pacific Union Club. Occupying what was once the brown stone mansion of the Comstock mining operator, James C. Flood, on California street between Mason and Cushman streets, across from the Fairmont hotel. There is probably no club in the world that has such a spacious and beautiful home. Bohemian Club. At Post and Taylor streets. This is the most famous club in San Francisco, and one of the really great clubs of the world. Its home in the city is embellished with sculptures by some of its members, and decorated with sketches in the gayest spirit, illustrative of Bohemian club life. The mid-summer grove-play of this organization, concluding with the "Cremation of Care," is world-famous. The festival is held in a magnificent 240-acre grove of California redwoods, which the club owns, near Monte Rio, in Sonoma county. Members camp here for two weeks, and the festival concludes with a dramatic performance staged amid great redwoods on a sloping hillside, forming a vast stage-set beyond the facilities of any theater to produce. The grove-play of the Bohemian Club is a distinctly Californian art growth, and yet such a thing as might have been born in the golden age of Greece. The text is always written by a member, and the music is also the work of a member. Members take the parts, and none but members and visitors with cards of membership, are privileged to witness it. Olympic Club. At 524 Post street. This is the oldest existing amateur athletic organization in the world and one of the greatest. It was formed May 6, 1 860, and antedates the oldest athletic organizations of New York and London by several years. Burned out by the fire of 1 906, it rebuilt on the old site. The corner-stone of the present building was laid May 6, 1911, and the club reopened on June 15, 1912. Clubs and Societies 225 In its long life the Olympic has contributed much to the movement in favor of athletics, and clean athletics, throughout the country. It has produced great boxers and wrestlers; and such famous track athletes at Robert Haley, Peter Gerhardt, V. E. Schifferstein and Jack Nelson, the *'even time" men, who could run 1 00 yards in ten seconds, or 220 in 22. Ralph Rose, the world's champion shot putter, was a member of this club, and so is George Horine, champion high jumper of the world, both of whom represented the United States at the Olympic games at Stockholm in 1912. The club house is one of the most beautifully furnished and appointed buildings in the city. Probably the pride of the place is the swimming plunge, 1 00 feet long and 35 feet wide, in a spacious Italian marble cham- ber. The pool is filled daily with salt water pumped from the ocean. The membership of the Olympic club is over 2,400 — larger than that of any other men's athletic club in America except the New York Athletic. University Club. Corner of Powell and California streets. More members of the city's younger university men can be found here than at any other gathering place in San Francisco. The University of California Club has its home at 212 Stockton street. Union League Club, with handsomely appointed quarters at the corner of Powell and O'Farrell streets, in the downtown section. The Southern Club has a beautiful home at California and Jones streets with a classic portico suggesting colonial times and the *'days before the war." Press Club of San Francisco. Southwest corner of Sutter and Powell streets. The Press Club is allied with the Friars Club of New York. The membership is well over 450, and includes former Presidents Taft and Roosevelt and Secretary Knox. The club holds an annual show on the 1 7th of April 226 Handbook for San Francisco at one of the down town theaters. The new quarters are hand- some and commodious. Family Club. Corner of Bush and Powell streets. This is one of the clubs that join the country feature to the city phase of club life. It owns a beautiful "Farm" with a red- wood grove, in Woodside canyon, back of Redwood City, San Mateo county. San Francisco Commercial Club. On the fourteenth floor of the Merchants Exchange building, 431 California street. This is an association of about 1450 of the leading business men of the city. Transportation Club of San Francisco. Mezzanine floor of the Palace Hotel. Concordia Club. This is one of the leading Jewish social organizations of the city. It is located at 1 1 42 Van Ness avenue, between Post and Geary. Argonaut Club. At Post and Powell. Another well- known Jewish club, which grew out of the San Francisco Verein, organized in 1853 — one of the earliest social organiza- tions in the community, if not the oldest. Alliance Francaise. Headquarters for San Francisco are at 108 Sutter street; French- American Bank building. Ad Mens Club. Secretary, Frederick S. Nelson, 121 Post street. Pacific Aero Club. In room 730 Pacific building, at Fourth and Market streets. Affiliated with the Aero Club of America, and through that organization with the Federation Aeronautique Internationale. Sierra Club. This is one of the celebrated mountaineering clubs of the world, and the second largest in the United States. Its summer outings, which travelers come from almost every country to join, ofl^er facilities for mountain climbing and ex- ploration that would be unattainable without it. The president is John Muir, author of several works descrip- tive of the Sierra and their Big Tree groves; "The Mountains of California," "Our National Parks," "My First Summer in Cluhs and Societies 227 the Sierra," and 'The Yosemite." The secretary Is Wilham E. Colby, 604 Mills building. Bush and Montgomery streets. The club has its city headquarters in the Mills building, room 402, where members and visitors may consult its remarkable collection of books, maps, exchanges and photographs relating to mountaineering; and it also has mountain headquarters, dur- ing the months of heaviest travel, in the Le Conte Memorial Lodge, Yosemite Valley, where there is a library and a readmg room and where the club's custodian is always prepared to furnish practical data about the mountains. In fact, the most serviceable information on all phases of California mountaineer- ing can always be obtained from this organization. California Camera Cluh. At 833 Market street, between Fourth and Fifth. Visitors to San Francisco interested m photograph are invited to call at the club rooms. This club is probably unique, and in membership is the largest organization of camera artists in the country. It is not only a rendezvous for advanced photographers, but a school for the beginner and the amateur, where every convenience has been assembled for photographic work. There is a fine library of reference works on photography. Commonrvealth Cluh of California, At 153 Kearny street. This is an active and vigorous organization for the study and discussion of problems affecting the community with a view to assisting in their solution. Students of such subjects may con- sult the club's growing library on political, economic and socio- logical topics, at the rooms, which are open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m., week days, except Saturday, when they close at 3 p. m. Local Council of Women, member of the National Council. President, Miss Jessica Lee Briggs, 1942 A Hyde street; cor- responding secretary, Mrs. Augusta Jones. 2524 Clay street. This body represents between 2,500 and 3,000 women, bemg a federation of the women's clubs of the city. Academy of Sciences. 343 Sansome street. Soon to erect a fine steel-framed building near the Francis Scott Key Monu- ment in Golden Gate Park, where its large natural history col- 228 Handbook, for San Francisco lections will be housed. Its collection of water-fowl is said to be the best in the world, San Francisco Turn Verein. At 2450 Sutter street, between Divisadero and Broderick. Accessible from the hotel district tij Sutter street cars on Lines Nos. 1 or 2. Columbia Park Bo})s' Club of San Francisco. At 458 Guerrero street, between Sixteenth and Seventeenth. Valencia street car. Line No. 9, to Sixteenth, and walk one block ^^5/ to Guerrero; or Fillmore street line to Sixteenth and Guerrero; also b^ lines 10 or 26, on Mission street, to Seven- teenth and Guerrero. Visitors are always welcome. Mem- bership is limited to those under 1 2 years. There are no dues, but personal service is exacted from every member. The boys are called upon continually to assist in charitable enterprises, and through their bands, chorals and athletic and dramatic per- formances have been able to earn their way on travel tours to every city and town in the State, along the west coast as far as Seattle, east as far as New York, and across the Pacific and throughout Australasia. At this writing a number of them are on a tour of the world, and in England were entertained on Sir Thomas Lipton's yacht. The work is in progress after 3:30 every day except Satur- days and Sundays. There is military drill at 1 1 o'clock Satur- day. Visitors are always welcome. Caledonian Club of San Francisco. Meets the first and third Fridays of the month at 121 Larkin street, one block north of Market. San Francisco Scottish Thistle Club. Regular meetings are held on the second and fourth Thursdays of the month at I 2 1 Larkin street, the latter being a "smoker." Recreation League of San Francisco. Office in the Phelan building at 760 Market street. An amalgamation of over 80 civic, commercial and philanthropic organizations to promote an interest in outdoor sports and to make San Francisco known fis a city of play. Clubs and Societies 229 Sequoia Club. At 1 725 Washington street, between Polk street and Van Ness avenue. Sequoia Club Hall building. Gertrude Atherton is an honorary member, and so is Ina Cool- brith, the poet. San Francisco-Alaska Club. At 4 Eddy street, near Mar- ket and Powell. Commercial Travelers' 1915. Otto C. Sievers, 673 Fourth avenue, secretary. Meets second and fourth Fridays at 444 Market street. Pacific Coast Commercial Travelers* Association. Head-, quarters 444 Market. Meets last Saturday of the month. San Francisco Commercial Travelers' Association. Meets second and fourth Tuesdays at 61 1 Pacific building. San Francisco Chapter of the American Institute of Archi- tects. Sylvain Schnaittacher, secretary. First National Bank building, Montgomery and Post streets. San Francisco Architectural Club. Harry Thompson, sec- retary, 126 Post street. The Bar Association of San Francisco extends a welcome to visiting attorneys that may wish to consult its law library, ninth floor of the Pacific building. Market and Fourth streets. The Order of Railwa}) Conductors, Division 1 1 3, meets at 530 Bryant street on the first and third Tuesdays of the month. There are two lodges of the Brotherhood of Railroad Train- men in this city. San Francisco Lodge No. 198 meets at 530 Bryant street, at 7:30 p. m., on the first Tuesday of the month, and at 1 :30 p. m., on the third Sunday. Golden Gate Lodge No. 846 meets at the same place on the second Wednesday and the third Saturday of the month at I 2 :30 p. m. Besides these there are the Arm^ and Nav^ Club, at 126 Post street; the California Anglers' Association, at 15 Stockton street; the Concatenated Order of Hoo-Hoo, in the Fife building, with a membership among the lumbermen ; and many more. The San Francisco Labor Council meets every Friday at 8 p. m., at the Labor Temple, 316 Fourteenth street. 230 Handbook for San Francisco o « •^ pL, ^ <1 > o o H C/J O ?> ^-l S W CJ < « n W o H « «it w 1< ;^ « o Q 2 fe ri o 1— 1 b <: <: ■< a 'M r:) < •i^ w < td Ph H w fc m (_) H ha c