^/- ,\\^ . cVV y^^^ ^ ^^V\" .S^" o 0' ^^ .^^^ .0 ^0^^^ ' ^ s ^ ^^- \>' ^ ^^ ,, X w aX- -^^'^^''//^./c '^ ,^ 'V- v^ -^^ >l v^^' "^-^.- ^^^ ^^^ \/ ^ -^ ^-' " / '^- ^ 8 , A ' '^^ ,^^ .V - > "^. <> >^^' - . A^^' ^ 'r. .\" * ^ .. ,^M>.. ^ << -^^ v^^ O 0^ ^^ -n^. ; C>|^ ^^<^. V- V' '^/. v^' : /; >0o^ v^^ ,vV s^ V ' h o .■ .<^' „^^ A ** ^>^ ^ ff 1 \'*\^^" OP A VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, IN i§i6 and i§i6. WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE MISSIONARY SETTLEMENTS OF THE isrs^a^isiD ©mis^siiBiii^s CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. BY THE REV. C^I. LATROBE. NEW- YORK : PUBLISHED B¥ JAMES EASTBURN AND CO. AT THE LITERARY ROOMS, BROADWAY. Clayton Si Kingsland, Printers. 1818. TO V MY DEAR CHILDREN^ CHARLOTTE LOUISA, PETER, ANNA AGNES, JOHN ANTES, CHARLES iOSEPIJ, BENJAMIN FREDERIC, My dear Children, IT was at your particular request^ that I wrote the fol- lowing circumstantial account of my visit to South Africa. Knowing how deeply interested you felt in every thing relating to your Father^ and that the summary account of my proceedings, contained in letters^ would not satisfy you, 1 was encouragedy under all circumstances ^ to persevere, I did not then expect to be called upon to publish this Journal^ which, though now given to the Public, I yet consider as dedicated td you. If its publication requires any apology^ I am sure that you wilt admit any thai lean make, either for its style, its details, want of ar-- rangement, occasional repetitions, or the freedom with which I have stated to you my sentiments and opinions on various subjects. My official report was immediately sent to those to whom it belonged ; but as you all delight in the success of the service in which I was engaged^ I have introduced a pretty full account both of the external construction ^ and internal state, of a Mission of the United Brethren among the He then. Receive it, therefore, as a mark of my paternal affection, and as a testimony of my gratitude to God, for having blessed me with children, whose filial duty, love and confidence, I have hitherto uninterruptedly enjoyed, and of whom I may cherish that firm trust, that theya^ve not only MY children^ but *' the children of God, by faith in Christ Jesus.^' C. L LATROBET. PREFACE. The Directors of the Missions among Heathen nations, esta^ blished by the Church known by the name of Unitas Fratrunij or United Brethren, having been frequently requested by the missionaries at Gnadenthal and Groenekloof, near the Cape of Good Hope, to send a person, duly authorized, to visit those settlements, I was appointed to that service ; and, on my return, delivered in an official report of my transactions. I have, how- ever, been desired by many well-wishers to the Missions, and others, to publish the following narrative, originally written for the information of my family and friends. One object of my visit was to assist in making some arrange- ment with the Government of the Colony regarding the security of the Missionary Settlements of the United Brethren. The beneficial influence of Christianity in enlightening and civilizing Heathen nations, of which the Mission among the Hot- tentots at the Cape furnished the most convincing proofs, being generally acknowledged, Government had expressed a wish^ VI PREFACE. that a third Settlement, under the superintendence of the Brethren, might be made in the interior ; and condescended to give the necessary directions and powers for fixing upon a spot of ground, as yet unoccupied, and suitable for that purpose* On that account, it was desirable, that a journey should be made through the Colony, in search of a convenient situation, if exist- ing circumstances favoured the undertaking. Though I felt myself insufficient for the execution of a com- mission so extensive, and so important to the concerns of our Church and its Missions, yet I ventured to accept the call, in reliance on the help of God, to whose service I count it the greatest favour, honour, and pleasure, to be enabled to devote all the powers of soul and body ; and comforted by the con- viction, that in all things " our sufficiency is of God." This Journal was written, as leisure or hurry, rest or weari- ness, quietude or interruption, or other contingencies and dis- positions of mind permitted ; yet always with strict attention ta truth, and a desire to avoid misrepresentation. I LAV no claim to those qualifications which are required, if the only object of the journey be the improvement of science ; but, being habitually attentive to subjects connected with geo- logy, mineralogy, and botany, some account of them will be found in the course of this narrative, though I had frequent oc* j casion to regret, that my acquaintance with them was not suf- ficient to enable me to enter upon scientific description. To my friend, J. W. Burchell, Esq. I am indebted for the scientific names, added to the subjoined list. The best information upon these subjects may be found in the works of Sparmann, Barrow, PREFACE. Vll Lichtenstein, Burchell, and others ; nor will the Colony ever want men of ability, ready to explore its widely extended re- gions, while it is in possession of a Government, ever attentive, not only to the promotion of moral and political good within its own dominion, but to the distribirtiop of the benefits of its dis- coveries to all mankind. ^ © W B M A ILa CHAPTER I. Various Occurrences and Remarks during the Voyage to the Cape of Good Hope. On the first of October, 1815, at eight in the morning, we left Gravesend with a fair wind and fine weather, and in the evening came to an anchor in Margate roads, to await the return of the tide. On the 2d early we proceeded, and were fortunate enough to get round the South Foreland, with a fair breeze at north-west. The clearness of the weather gave us a good view of the coasts of England and France as we passed between Dover and Calais, and the state of the wind permitting our keeping near our own shores, we were much gratified by the appearance of the rocks, headlands, towns, and villages, as they successively pre- sented themselves to view. 3d. The wind veered round to the south-west, and to- wards night rose considerably. The motion of the ship became troublesome, but as our captain was determined, if possible, to keep the sea, every exertion was used by tacking and otherwise, to proceed against contrary winds. Passing by the Isle of Wight on the 4th, the wind had so much increased, that but for a providential shift in our favour, we should have been compelled to put into some port. Nothwithstanding the unpleasant situation, in which, as persons unaccustomed to the sea, we found 1 JOURNAL OF A ourselves placed, and a secret wish to be delivered from it, our desire to proceed was so great, that we all thank- ed God, that we had met with so good a sea-boat, keep- ing so close to the wind, and so determined and skilful a conductor. The wind abating; towards morninp*, we soon forgot the troubles of the night, and spent the 5th. Mostly on deck. In the afternoon, however, the weather assumed a more unfavourable appearance, and threatened a stormy night. Until two in the morning it blew hard. I staid on deck, beholding with astonishment the foaming surface of the troubled ocean, till the vio- lent rain drove me down. 1 cannot deny, that in the mind of a landsman, the pleasure, occasioned by the no- velty and magnificence of such an exhibition, is intermix- ed with some degree of fear, often amounting to an ap- prehension of danger, where in fact there is no sufficient cause. As it w^as in my cabin that I found my imagina- tion most active in conjuring up these needless perplexi- ties, my station in rough weather during the whole voyage was chiefly on deck, where the courage and skill of the captain, and frequent conversation with him and our fel- low passenger Mr. Buck, who generally kept me compa- ny, dissipated all fears. The Start point was the last land we saw through the misty atmosphere, and I now took leave, for the present, of dear Old England, with a comfortable assurance in my mind, that by God's mercy, I should return to it in safety. This assurance never forsook me during the whole time of my absence, and I mention it with peculiar thankfulness, as it kept me always cheerful and contented, whether at sea or on land, and free from those misgivings, which, though considered as the mere work of imagination, often affect our peace and happiness even more than real evils. 6th. Though we had all pretty well recovered from sea sickness, yet with me, it left behind a total want of appetite, which during the whole voyage, prevented my partaking of much food. But though after some time, I felt myself weakened in body by such abstinence, I partly ascribe to it that degree of hveliness which I preserved in my mind, and the pleasure I took, in being constantly occupied with reading or writing. It was not till after VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. this day, that we could make some regular arrangement as to family worship, most of us having been hitherto too often confined to our cabins, to allow of our meeting to* gether. From this time, immediately after breakfast, we read the portions of Scripture appointed in our Church for each day, and sang some verses in connexion with their contents, offering up praise and prayer to Him, " Whose eyes run to and fro throughout the whole earth, to show Himself strong in the behalf of them whose heart is perfect towards Him." Every evening we met for the same purpose, and on festivals and memorial-days called to mind our fellowship with our Brethren at home and abroad, by a short address delivered to the company on the subject of commemoration. Besides the daily wor^ ship, we met regularly on Sundays about ten o'clock in the morning, when w^e read the Litany, and heard a dis- course, either read or delivered by a missionary, with suitable hymns, as usual in our congregations. On these occasions our hearts were often filled with renewed com- fort and confidence, and we may truly bear Avitness to the fulfilment of our Saviour's gracious promise given unto his disciples, and to all them, "Who, through their word should believe on Him," that, " where two or three are met in His name, He will be in the midst of them, even unto the end of the world." And not only when thus assembled, but when we entered into our closets and directed our prayers and supplications to our heavenly Father in secret, we experienced of a truth, that His mercies are not confined to time and place and form, but that He hears and answers all, who in every place, and under any circumstances, call upon and worship Him in sincerity and truth. We not only met with no interrup- tion from the captain, the crew, and our fellow passen- ger, but rather with every degree of attention and indul- gence ; nor were we ever prevented by the state of the weather from regularly attending to the daily service. I had provided myself with an assortment of books, some of which I had not had leisure to read at home, and to-day, began to examine my stock and put them in order in my cabin. The first parcel I opened contained several pamphlets, chiefly German, sent to me by my friend, Mr. JOURNAL OF A Ackerman, for the amusement of the company. Most of them related to the political affairs of Germany, the bat- tle of Leipsic, &c. containing much interesting informa- tion, recent and important, though the late escape of Bo- naparte from Elba, his invasion of France, first success- es and final overthrow at Waterloo, has placed even the great events of 1813 and 1814 in the back ground of the picture. But who that considers the dealings of God with mankind, can contemplate the events of the last five- and-twenty years, without being humbled under His mighty hand, and giving to Him alone all the glory of our deliverance. To him who thus reads the history of the late wars, it will prove a useful lesson. While we were in the channel and in the bay, vessels of various descriptions were continually in sight, but we now seemed left alone. 9th. A shoal of porpoises surrounded the ship. They were passing from west to east, and amused us much by their playfulness and the astonishing swiftness of their motions. They are said to be forerunners of a storm. Towards evening the wind rose, with frequent drizzling showers and flying black clouds. It increased so much, that the appearance of the sea after sunset became ra- ther terrific. The waves frequently broke over the fore- part of the ship, and sometimes even approached us, as we sat on the quarter-deck. For above two hours the moon shone bright, every now and then seeming to step behind some dark swift-flying cloud, and to come forth again with redoubled lustre. The foaming edges of the waves appear at a distance like long lines of phosphoric light, chasing each other, and w^henever a wave dashes over the decks, the sparks it contains run with the water to and fro, as the ship rolls from side to side. About eleven o'clock, assistance was called for in the cabin, as the trunks and other articles had broken loose and were sliding backwards and forwards on the floor. The door of the pigsty bein^ forced open, the poor animals ran in great consternation backwards and forwards on deck, and one having the misfortune to fall headlong down the cabin stairs, the noise of its fall and its cries added to the terror of the scene. The wind VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. however being fair, we were thankful, amidst all the restlessness occasioned by the ship's motion, that we were getting fast forward. 10th and 11th were tolerably quiet days, but on the 12th the wmd turned against us, and though above 240 miles off the coast of Portugal, the captain thought it un- safe to proceed farther towards the south-east, the di- rection in which we were then steering, and towards evening tacked and stretched towards the north-west, the wind from the southward rising, and every now and then squalls with rain increasing its force. The sea was now in a terrible ferment and assailed the ship on all sides, but particularly from the north-west, from whence a heavy swell came rolling towards us in tre- mendous surges. We ran under close-reefed top-sails, keeping as near as possible to the wind, against a head- sea ; but at two in the morning the wind shifting, put about agam and kept on our course. The morning turned out fine, and a very large shoal of porpoises played about the ship. When I sometimes sit on deck, surveying this im- measurable deep, I think, surely. He that made the sea and all that is therein, did not intend that it should be only the playground of the many different tribes of fishes that flit through its upper regions and skim alono- Its surface, but the habitation also of innumerable crea^ tures of His hand, that walk upon its bottom, probably with shapes, properties and powers, unknown to us. I am ready to exclaim with the Psalmist, « O Lord ! how- manifold are Thy works ! In wisdom hast Thou made them all : The €arth is full of Thy riches. So is this great and wide sea, wherein are things creeping innumera- ble, both small and great beasts^ Ps. civ. 24, 25. It is well for them, that we have not discovered the means of hauling them up, to make their heads, bodies and tails assist in furnishing the tables of our citizens with new dainties. They, at least, live undisturbed by that de- vourer-general, Man. His pretension is vain, to claim the dominion over all the beasts of the field, the fowls of the air, and the fishes of the sea ! That dominion was given to him in his state of innocence, before death came JOURNAL UP A into the world by sin. Then indeed all interior crea- tures looked up to him with love, respect, and willing subjection, as tp a friend and patron. But now the first question commonly asked by a child, when it sees or hears of any living creature, walking, flving, or swim- mino-, is, '' is it good to eat .^" Many commentators seem to have entirely forgotten, that by the fall of man he lost his dominion over other creatures, and when the Lord repeats the declaration of His will concerning man after the flood, speaks no more o{ dominion^ but of"' the dread of man^' upon them, with permission to use them for food. During the following days, the weather was calm, and the rolling of the ship, occasioned by the north-west swell, proved very unpleasant. We were engaged in preparing letters to send home by any passing ship we might meet. J 5th early, a sloop hove in sight, which turned out to be a Dane, bound from Malaga to some Danish port. The captain went on board, committed our letters to the master, and made an exchange of some Hollands for melons and raisins, which, as our stock of fresh provisions was low, was of service to us. Reading Miller's Life of Huet, a French bishop in the seventeenth century, I found the following pas- sage, which, perfectly according with the sentiments of every true Protestant Christian, I hope I shall not be blamed for inserting a translation of it. The vene- rable prelate, speaking of some works, written by him in the monastery of Aunay, proceeds — " But long be- fore I occupied myself with these subjects, I had conceived a much more important undertaking, to which^ indeed, more than to any thing else all my studies and contemplations hitherto had a reference. This was an Exposition and Elucidation of the Ho*^ ly Scriptures. From my childhood, such a venera-f tion for its divine origin, and such a high estimation of the worth and internal excellence of this book had taken root within me, that, though my youthful spirit delighted and almost revelled in the beauties of the fine arts and the mathematics, it always returned with pleasure to li VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. these sacred records, as feeling itself in them at home, and in the former only as a wanderer and pilgrim. And yet, at that time, I had no knowledge of the Hebrew language, and could not extend my research beyond the narrow limits of the vulgate. But having broken through these bounds, and, as it were, standing at the fountain it- self, my soul felt an increasing relish for this study, and I believed, that I now saw the mysteries of heaven with- out a veil. " My mcreasing and more intimate acquaintance with those sacred books convinced me, that, even if they were not of divine origin, which faith teaches us to believe them to be, and which we know by internal conviction, yet both their antiquity and the immense number of ex- traordinary, mighty, and marvellous subjects, which are to be found in this inexhaustible treasury, and nowhere else, render them worthy, that we should devote all our care, diligence, meditations, and nightly lucubrations, to the study and understanding of them alone. Being, therefore, now released from the bondage of the court, I again betook myself to the study of the Hebrew, com- bining with it that of the Syriac and Arabic, ajid because the knowledge of languages, requires long and repeated exercise, I never suffered one day to pass, betw^een the years 1681 and 1712, without employing one or two hours upon it, being a period of thirty-one years ; nor did I ever suffer business, journeys, or even illness to inter- fere with this resolution. Thus, during that period of time, I have read the whole Old Testament four-and- twenty times, with the greatest delight, and essential be- nefit to my soul." This worthy man was a devoted Ro- man Catholic, and speaks with the greatest gratitude of St. Genevieve, by whose kind intercession he was re- stored from a dangerous illness, and to whom also, w^hen he first took orders, he commended himself for assistance in a faithful discharge of his priestly office, by reading his first mass at her tomb, in a vault of her church at Paris, Thus, the most excellent and enlightened men of the age, such as Huet was, in his day and station, may, in certain points, remain quite in the dark, till the Spirit of God, by a progressive work, grants the rays of his g JOURNAL OF A light and t.utli to shine upon them. Such reflections should make us more candid and forbeanng, in judging of the state of men's minds in other persuasions, dittering from our own, conscious that we ourselves have yet much to learn, before we attain to perfection. 17th. Two vessels hove in sight. The first hoisted Endish colours, and we edged towards her. She proved to be a Poole ship from Newfoundland, bound to Valen- cia in Spain. Mr. Buck, being a native of Poole, found an acquaintance in her captain, and gave him some very welcome information concerning his family, a circumstance which afforded us all much pleasure This morning I be-an to read Montgomery's " World before the Flood. There is a strain of genuine piety in it, which cannot tail to edify all unprejudiced readers. I see no reason tor his making such an humble apology for the fiction. 18th Fly in ^ fish made their first appearance, and as on that account it was hoped that dolphins were not far off, in pursuit of these defenceless creatures, we pre- pared with great eagerness of expectation to revenge the cause of the pursued, by an attack on the pursuers; in which, however, we were disappointed, for not a sin- gle fish approached the ship. The wind was contrary, and we made but little way. 19th. In the forenoon, a shoal of bonnettas kept for some time playinj? about the ship, and many attempts were made to strike them, but in vain. In the afternoon, a laro-e turtle was observed asleep, and floating close to the ship. The jolly-boat was immediately lowered down, and the captain and two sailors set off with all speed after her, but by some mismanagement missed their snatch, and she escaped. I read to-day a well-written characteristic of Count Zinzendorf in manuscript. The author, Mr. Loretz, sent me this piece about twenty-five years ago, together with Miller's life of that nobleman, which, but for its tiresome digressions, I should have read with pleasure. He wished me to furnish an English translation; but the want of leisure, and a consciousness of my inability to do justice to the subject, induced me to decline it. I should, how- ever, think myself highly favoured, at a proper time, VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 9 ^nd in a satisfactory manner, to contribute to rescue the memory of so great and excellent a man as Count Zin- zendorf from that unmerited obloquy, which has been cast upon him by base and wicked enemies, and too of- ten repeated by persons misguided or misinformed. The apologies made for various expressions in his writings, which appear eccentric, or even incorrect, seem to have satisfied most objectors on the continent, but in England have not as yet been much attended to. 20th. Certain rocks, marked in our charts as lying to the north of Porto Santo, and called the eight stones, were to-day an object of some anxiety to the captain; and though their existence is not fully proved, he kept a sharp look out for them by night and day. Our dead reckoning was by this time so much at variance with the chronometer, that, by the captain's account, there was a hundred, and by the mate's no less than a hundred and forty miles difference between them. On the 21st, the island of Madeira appearing far to the westward, estabhshed the truth of the chronometer's reckoning, to the great satisfaction of the captain. We moved on but slowly, with light breezes. The time, however, passed pleasantly, as I was continually em- ployed in reading, writing, or agreeable and interesting conversation with my fellow passengers. This evening 1 finished reading Risler's life of the Rev. August Gottlieb Spangenberg, a bishop of our Church. As we are apt to compare ourselves with those, of whose life and cha- racter we read a description, more especially if there be some degree of similarity in our professions and occupa- tions, I cannot help confessing, that this narrative led me into a train of reflection, very humbling to my own heart. Compared to this extraordinary man, I sink into nothing ! What indefatigable application of all the energies and powers of soul and body, even from his earliest years, to acquire knowledge of every kind ! What eagerness to explore the truth; and what zeal and fortitude in prac- tising that which he had gained in theory ! And when he had found Jesus to be that Glorious Being, " in whom are hid all the treasures of wisdom and knowledge," with what full purpose of heart did he not ^- count all things 2 10 JOURNAL OF A but as dung and dross, for the excellency of the know- ledge of Jesus and Him crucified !" How .strictly did he watch over himself, and seek in all things, by word and work, to glorify the n-ame of his Saviour ! He was, indeed, a pattern and ensample to the flock. While I admired him, in all his principles and practice, and in the multiplicity of his labours in the Lord's vineyard, I could not help recollecting with much regret, that I did not better improve the acquaintance 1 was favoured to have with so distinguished a servant of God, during my resi- dence at Barby from 1776 to 1779, when, on account of the friendship he bore to my grandfather, H. Antes in Pennsylvania, and to my late excellent father, he showed particular attention to me. But though I highly respect- ed him, I did not then know how sufficiently to appre- ciate the inestimable value of the notice and counsel of such a man. He also honoured me with his correspond- ence, after my return to England ; until his departure out of this world, in his 90th year, deprived our Church of one of its most distinguished ministers. 22d. Between three and four in the morning, the watch announced the approach of a schooner, which, on hailing, proved to be an American, bound to Boston. The cap- tain and Mr. Buck went on board and purchased some boxes of raisins. The weather was remarkably fine and bright, but calm. The sailors call this preliminary state of calms and baffling winds, previous to entering into the regular trade-winds, the dolldrums^ from which we pray- ed that we might soon be delivered. 21th. At daybreak, land was discovered towards the south-east, being the Salvages, generally considered as belonging to the Madeira islands. They are uninhabit- ed. The rocks, called Piton rocks, were likewise in sight. The highest of them is a square looking jagged precipice, connected, by a dangerous reef, v^ith two others, which stand singly, and are not so much ele- vated. At noon, a strange sail appeared in sight, under Spanish colours. We shaped our course towards her, and Mr. Buck conveyed some letters on board. She proved to be the Constantia from Lancerota, one of the Canaries, bound to Ireland for provisions. In the even- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 11 ing, the Peak of TenerifFe was seen, bearing south« south-east, but surrounded with clouds. Towards night. Brother Clemens was seized with a violent spasm ; the pain of which increasing, exceedingly alarmed us. As he was convinced from former experience, that nothing but bleeding would relieve him. Brother Stein took courage to perform the operation; and though it was the first time he attempted it, without the direction of a surgeon,* it pleased God to give him success, and the patient was soon relieved from immediate danger, though several days were required to complete his re- covery. We all felt truly thankful to our Almighty Pre- server, to whom our prayers were directed for help in so distressing and dangerous an emergency. 25th. Flying clouds and squalls seemed to announce a change of weather, and deliverance from the calms we had hitherto suffered. Whenever it cleared up, the Peak of. Teneriflfe, at about eighty miles distance, ap- peared beautifully lodged among clouds passing along its middle and lower region. Palma, another of the Ca- nary islands, was also in sight; but our hopes of a change disappeared towards evening, and, except two or three light breezes of short duration, the calm con- tinned. The appearance of the sky at sunset was mar- vellously grand. Large masses of clouds, in lines, sha- ded with a bright bhieish gray colour, showing through various openings the brilliant orange, purple, and green- ish tints of the unclouded atmosphere beyond them, ho- vered above the western horizon, which, down to the edge of the sea, glowed with the most vivid gold and crimson hue. This grand picture was reflected by num- berless short rippling waves, as far as the eye could reach. Above the dark mass of clouds a bright purple tinged the heavens as high as the zenith. All seemed stationary and silent, no wind whatever accompanying * It is usual with the Brethren, that when Missionaries are sent abroad, some instruction is given respecting the treatment of patients of different descriptions, and the use of medicines. Brother Stein had thus acquired considerable skill in several branches of surgery, which proved useful on many occasions. 12 JOURNAL OF A the clouds. In these latitudes, we had frequently a simi- lar display of beauty in the evening sky. 26th. A breeze sprung up, but not in our favour. We tacked to the north-west and south-east all day. The islands were beclouded ; though now and then TenerifFe with its Peak showed itself partially uncovered. The heat was excessive, but the breeze made it bearable. I was engaged in reading a German translation of Bai^ row's account of his travels through the Cape colony^ which, as formerly, afforded me much pleasure and in- struction. He has made honourable mention of our set- tlement at Bavian's Kloof, now called Gnadenthal, which in 1798 was yet in its infancy. To a botanist, his work is peculiarly valuable. 28th. We passed so close to the westward of Palma, that we could distinctly discern every object on shore. When the day dawned, its summit was covered with thick morning clouds and vapours. As they ascended or withdrew, the precipitous declivities of the mountains and rocks opened to view. The sun, rising behind the island, soon dispelled the clouds, and illumined its upper regions, the outline of which exhibited rocky ridges and glens, apparently stony and barren ; but towards the west, much wood covers the more gentle slopes. Two promontories form a small bay, with a fruitful coast, a town and landing place. The road is unsafe in wester- ly winds. About noon, we were again becalmed, while a sail to windward enjoyed a delightful breeze. 29th. During the night, we had made some progress, and but for baffling winds in the vicinity of these islands, should now have reaped the benefit of the trade-wind. After breakfast, a heavy squall came on from the west, with violent rain, which put us in considerable motion. When it subsided, we held our usual Sunday's worship, but had hardly finished, when we were assailed by another squall, more lasting than the former. Above two hundred gallons of rain-water were collected, and the ducks being let out of their coops, enjoyed a splashing. There was now a sufficient quantity of water for all our live stock, which hitherto had been served rather too sparingly, considering the heat of the weather. This VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 13 last squall brought on a fresh north-east breeze, and our captain began to hope, that we had at length gained the trade-wind. All sails were set, and we proceeded with great swiftness, overtaking a large bark and a brig, the former English and the latter Portuguese ; towards sun- set, our hopes again proved vain ; the Avind veered round to the south:, and dark clouds rose, with much lightning, in the western quarter. 30th. The western horizon appeared uncommonly gloomy, and an almost incessant deep roar of thunder, threatened an approaching storm. After some doubt as to the course the clouds would take, they began to rise swiftly towards us. All hands were summoned on deck, and the ship prepared to meet the w^orst; but the storm was more terrific in its approach than in its presence. The sea was indeed for some time extremely agitated, and rose in considerable waves. Some strong flashes of lightning, accompanied by thunder not very loud, illumi- ned our cabin, into which the heavy rain had driven us ; but in about an hour, the wind fell, and we were yet more annoyed by the return of the old cdm, when the ship, becoming unmanageable by the rudder, was pushed about in any direction the swell gave her. Immediately after sunset, it began again to lighten all round the ho- rizon. 31st. We made good way with a favourable wind till noon, when it again fell calm. I had been so much pleased with the second little vo- lume of Risler's Select Narratives, containing an account of the Spirit of the Church of the United Brethren, im- mediately after its renovation in 1722, that I resolved to translate it into English. In the evening, and during the whole night, it lightened incessantly. I sat long on deck, very much delighted with the grandeur of the scene. November 1st. I began to-day to read such parts of the Spectator as appeared to me most interesting. Addison certainly had a reUgious feeling, and now and then expresses himself with truth and effect upon reli- gious subjects : but I cannot help remarking, that, had he possessed a clearer view of the great price, paid by "^Ife^ii^ 14 JOURNAL OF K our Saviour to redeem us from the vain conversation re- ceived by tradition from our forefathers, which is full of sin, and leads to sin and the love of the world, he would, in many of his papers, have avoided subjects and discus- sions tending only to excite those passions in the human breast, which had better be kept dormant. Indeed, as a principal party engaged in that work, he may be consi- dered accountable for the whole of what his associates have said in their different essays. Often, however, much instruction on religious topics may be gained from the perusal of his writings. I was particularly struck and pleased with the conclusion of a paper, written against vulgar prejudices and superstitions, by which foolish and idle people frequently torment their brains. I cannot help transcribing it : ''I have (says he) but one way of fortifying my soul against those gloomy pre- sages and terrors of mind ; and that is, by securing to myself the friendship and protection of that Being, who disposes of events, and governs futurity. He sees at one view the whole thread of my existence, not only that part of it which I have already passed through, but that which runs forward into all the depths of eternity. When I lay me down to sleep, I recommend myself to his care ; when I wake, I give myself up to his directions. Amidst all the evils that threaten me, I will look up to him for help, and question not, but he will either avert them or turn them to my advantage. Though I know neither the time nor the manner of death I am to die, I am not at all solicitous about it ; because I am sure, that he knows them both, and that he will not fail to comfort and support me under them." Nothing need be added to this beautiful declaration of hope and trust in God, except that I pray, that it may always be made by me and mine, under a firm conviction, that it is only in Jesus Christ our Saviour as God mani- fest in the flesh, that we can have any just view of God's mercy, and any assurance of favour and acceptance with Him. I w^ould not wish to repeat it as a moral heathen or deist might do, but as a Christian worshipper. In the evening, a bright meteor appeared in the north, VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA^ 15 passing from west to east, and it lightened a great deal during the night. 3d and 4th. We were favoured with good wind, and made tolerable progress. Two brigs hove in sight, and great numbers of flying fish skimmed along the surface of the water, or flew from the top of one wave to the other, pursued by bonnettas or dolphins. When the weather was fine, the captain always contrived to keep his men employed; they were now engaged in making anew mainsail, and the black carpenter in building a new ca- bouse or kitchen, for his black brother, the cook. In the evening, some flying fish fell on board. Their bodies- are shaped somewhat like a small herring, with large eyes. Their wings, or flying fins, reach nearly to the taiL and spread three inches ; but when dry, they can no longer support the fish above water. 5th. At daybreak, land was seen. It was Sal, one of the Cape de Verde Islands, and presented itself through a hazy atmosphere, with two high peaks and some lower mountains to the north of them, a low land running out to the south. The breeze had freshened during the night, and the sea was rather turbulent, the spray often flying over the ship. After our morning service, the captain informed us, that the island of Bonavista, thirty miles from the former, was in sight. This island is the most picturesque of any we had hitherto seen. Coming from the north, its first appearance was that of two steep hills enclosing a lower range ; but as we sailed along its eastern coast, several ranges of mountains, of beauti- ful shapes and diiFerent heights, one after the other, opened to view. Some were cones, with craters on their rocky summits. The country below them^ though here and there showing patches of a green colour, had, in general, a very barren appearance. The haziness of the weather would not permit us distinctly to discover any smaller objects. The waves also sometimes swelled to such a height, as to hide the island for a moment from our view ; but as we passed swiftly along, we were much amused by the continual shifting of the scene, exhibiting the mountains in ever-varying positions. We were how- ever disappointed in our hopes of seeing Mayo, another 16 JOURNAL OF A of these islands, a thick mist overspreading the horizon about sunset. The strong favourable wind continued all night. 6th. This morning we had a very pleasing exhibition of the wonderful agility and swiftness of a host of bottle- nosed porjDoises, coming from the north. For nearly half an hour they played and frisked about the ship's bows, leaping out of the water, pursuing each other in all di- rections, tumbling tail over head, and performing all kinds of tricks. They seemed perfectly happy, and bade defiance to all attempts to pierce them. They were, by guess, from three to four feet long. It lightened again in the evening, and during the nighty but the wind conti- nued to favour us. 8th. We were proceeding with a steady breeze in fine weather, wlien about noon the sky became overcast, and very black clouds began to rise from the south-east. The captain coming on deck, rather alarmed us, by the haste in which he gave orders to shorten sail. The swiftness also with which the clouds came rolling on, was remark- able, and they brought with them such a sudden gust of wind, that the utmost exertion hardly saved the royals and studding sails from being blown away, before they could be taken in. Some mischief was done to the rig- ging, and we could hardly stand on deck. For about an hour, we ran furiously through the water, when ano- ther cloud, much more black and threatening than the former, appeared in the south. Its approach was an- nounced by several claps of thunder of increasing loud- ness, and we prepared for a heavier squall, when, after a quarter of an hour's violent rain, it suddenly fell calm. Then, however, our troubles began, for the sea having become extremely agitated by the fury of the former gale, the swell was tremendous; and as there was no wind to carry us forward, the ship, being at its mercy, plunged very hard. A wave struck her astern, broke two of the cabin windows, overstreamed all the books, papers, and whatever lay on the lockers, and filled the floor some inches high with water. Fortunatelv not much injury was done, but we were obliged to put in dead-lights, and glad to retreat on deck out of so hot VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 17 and dark a dungeon. Our patience was now again put to trial by the return of calms and light baffling winds, hy the sailors called cat's-paws. In the evening, a hawk, after flying long about the ship, perched on the fore-yard near the fore-top, and was taken. She was a beautiful bird. I protested against her destruction, as being con- trary to all rules of hospitality, but could not save her. 9th. About three in the morning, a black cloud with very vivid hghtnmg and loud thunder approached us, but brought little either of wind or rain. More short squalls assailed us during the day. A brig having appeared in sight to the north-east, and proving to be a Portuguese, bound to the Brazils, we sent a packet of letters on board, which her captain promised to deliver safely. In the evening, clouds came on with thunder and light- ning, and while we were singing our evening-hymn, several strong flashes illumined our little cell. But while the elements seemed at war without, the peace of God comforted our hearts within. 10th. The Portuguese brig, which had approached us during the squall, tacked and stood to the westward. This satisfied us that she was not bound to the coast of Guinea for slaves, as those who had yesterday been on board suspected. There is no doubt, however, that the slave-trade is secretly carried on under various preten- ces, notwithstanding the severity of the laws, and the vigilance of government. I read to-day a part of a "Collection of Anecdotes,'' in a German work, professedly written to promote mo- rality. What pains are taken to adorn the dead body, and make it look alive! to tie good fruit upon rotten branches; and, like the prophets of Baal in the days of Elijah, to expect fire from heaven sent by a god of man's own making. The effects of the writings of sentimental foreigners and their new-fangled systems of philosophy, having so clearly proved of what value they are in re- forming the minds and manners of mankind, by the late commotions in the world, ought long ago to have excited more attention to the truths of revelation, which declare man to be by nature, " dead in trespasses and sins," and unable to do good without a change of heart, wrought 3 J y JOURNAL OF A by faith in Jesus Christ our Saviour. But both m this^ and in some other modern pubhcations, there is yet a studied attempt to prove, that it does not signitj, whether a man be a Christian, a Jew, a Turk, a Heathen, or a Deist, if he but now and then do a good action, and show himself less a slave of passion than others. Then, say they, you are acceptable to God, and this is called en- lightening ! May God in mercy preserve us from such delusion ! I Ith. Poison having been spread about the lower part of the ship to kill the rats, an intolerable smell kept me awake great part of the night. The perisliing carcasses of these creatures are surely a greater nuisance than their existence. I repented, that I had complained some days ago that one of them had run over my face in the night. 13th. We encountered a heavy squall with thunder and rain, by which we gained some gallons of sweet water. This was the more acceptable, as for some time past, the water in our casks sent forth a very offensive smell, being hardly fit to drink, except when filtered through a dripping-stone, made of Maltese fossil-lime- stone. 16th. Flying fish and many kinds of sea-fowl appear- ed in great numbers, and on the 17th, the captain, after many vain attempts both by himself and the crew, had the good fortune to catch a fish. It was an albicore, and had a flying fish in its sto- mach. Its length was about two feet, its colour dark green with darker stripes and spots on the back, its bel- ly of the most brilliant mother of pearl, its mouth small, the body narrow across the back, and about six inches deep between back and belly, sloping off to an inch and a half at the root of the tail. The latter is vertical and forked. It had six fins, two on the breast, one on each side, and two dorsal fins, from which, to the root of the tail, six small triangular fins were placed in a row. It was caught with a hook baited with feathers, which the foolish gormandizing creature mistook and seized for a flying fish. This evening a new mainsail was bent. 18th. We crossed the line, when the usual ceremonies VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 19 took place. Neptune and his wife appeared in the per- sons of the black carpenter and the second mate, most ridiculously apparelled and painted, a large grain repre- senting the trident. His aquatic majesty declared his great satisfaction, on being informed, that the vessel that had the boldness to enter his dominions, belonged to his old friends, the English, and kindly offered his services to initiate us into his society, by shaving and sousing. The ceremony was however dispensed with, in consideration of sixteen bottles of Hollands, to be distributed among the crew at a bottle a-day, lest they should be more hurt than benefited by the gift. The cabin-boy submitted to the operation. Being seated on a bar laid across a large tub, and lathered with a composition of tar and grease, he was duly shaved with a piece of an iron hoop, and well soused, by three buckets of water poured over his head. While I was pitying him on account of such rough usage, he came to me into the cabin, and expressed, with great glee, the satisfaction he now felt, in being made a thorough seaman, free of all headlands, promon- tories, &:c. whereas, before this initiation, freshmen must pay fines, and submit to many other degradations. Con- sidering the liberty always given on this occasion, the crew behaved very orderly. We dined to-day on the albicore, caught yesterday, and found it excellent food. The flesh was white and brown ; both parts equally good. 19th. In the evening, before the moon rose, the sea abounded with large bright spots of apparently phospho- ric light, or detached collections of those sparks, which, singly, accompanied us every where. 20th. Several men of war birds flew about the ship. Their bodies are not large, but their wings extend a great way. Oldendorp, in his Account of the West Indies, speaks of fourteen feet from tip to tip. Their bill is pointed, and they pounce upon flying and other small fishes with great dexterity and swiftness. 2 1st. For some days 1 have been feasting my mind on Milton's Paradise Lost. To make any remarks on a poem so sublime and unrivalled, may seem strangely im- pertinent ; but, may I be permitted to say, that, whether 20 JOURNAL OF A from my increased aversion to heathen mythology, or an idea, that its subjects are here and there brought in, chiefly as a display of classical knowledge, when quite unnecessary, 1 felt as if this truly christian and evangeli- cal poem was rather bespattered than ornamented by these old fooleries. Now and then, I grant, they are well introduced, when their absurdity is shown ; but am I right in thinking, that the whole might have been as ex- cellent, as classical, and as sublime, without much allu- sion to such wretched nonsense ? 1 fear, however, that to those, who consider the study of the ancient au- thors and poets of Greece and Rome an essential pre- paration for a work of this kind, it might have been a sufficient cause to reject the whole poem, had it not abounded with such classical allusions. More is the pi- ty, that the infinitely more sublime and elevated language of truth in the Bible should be so seldom imitated, and be made to give way to the lying and silly devices of idolatrous heathen. Nay, I fear that Milton's Paradise Lost will by some be laid upon the shelf, as an old obso- lete performance, merely because it sets forth the truth, in showing the fall and depravity of man, and salvation by faith in a crucified Saviour. The adulterous fondness for the works of modern poetasters, celebrating the ex- ploits of murderers and prostitutes, which has seized the present generation, is a proof, that sound taste is fast de- clining, together with sound religion. I was anew charm- ed with the beautiful simplicity and grandeur of Milton's ideas, especially in the first six books throughout. It is to be lamented, that he was such an incorrigible republi- can ; but he lived in bad times. 22d. We were now favoured with the regular south- east tradcwind, and proceeded for many days, steadily keeping on our course, with fine weather, seldom dis- turbed by clouds and showers; though sometimes an- noyed by the uneasy motion of our small brig. Going one morning on deck, a sudden heel threw me against the companion, by which I hurt my back, and experien- ced much inconvenience for some time. Yet I had gain- ed such a relish for continual employment in reading and writing, that I did not suffer myself to be disturbed by a VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 21 little pain. I also very much enjoyed the conversation of my fellow travellers, in which we generally spent ^ few hours after sunset, sitting on deck, beholding the ever-varying play of the numberless waves of the ocean, and deriving amusement and instruction from a variety of objects; for truly, ^^ They that go down to the sea in ships, they see the wonders of the Lord in the deep ;" nor is a voyage so dull a business as some would think. The waves, the clouds, the stars, shining with double lustre through a clear atmosphere, the effect of the sun and moon on the restless surface of the water, frequent and beautiful nocturnal exhibitions of lightning on the horizon, the appearance of fishes and birds at an immense distance from any known land, the progress of the vessel, the unexpected, and therefore highly welcome sight of ships of different nations, and occasional conver- sation with them in passing, and, I may add, the constant changes of hopes, fears, and reliefs from false alarms, with other subjects affecting the feelings ; besides the various occupations of the crew, the interest taken in the fate of the animals on board, — all these things not only keep alive the mind of any person, not wholly apathetic and inattentive to what passes around him, but tend to prevent languor and impatience from gaining too much ground. And what abundant resources are there not found in study, and the contemplation of the works of nature and art ; for the pursuit of which, a long voyage affords much leisure and convenience, seldom inter- rupted. Want of appetite, and frequent sleepless nights, which I considered as a very acceptable commutation for sea- sickness, having never suffered from the latter after the first week, had robbed me of much strength, but not of health, or energy of mind. I was therefore satisfied, not to be able, without great weariness, to walk about the decks, and comforted myself with the hopes of the re- turn of my usual powers, when wanted; nor was I dis- appointed. A week passed without any occurrence wor- thy of notice. 28th. Having spent some days without seeing a cloud, ^ fish, a bird, or g^ny thing to excite either alarm or won- 22 JOURNAL OP A der, we were again visited by showers and strong puffs of wind. A flying fish fell on board, of a larger size than any we had yet seen, with black flying fins, its body about fourteen inches long. However, the unphi- losophical tars had mutilated him, before he was brought into the cabin for inspection. I read to-day the preface of the German bible^ print- ed at Basle in 1741. It gives an account of the manner in which the reading of the Scriptures was opposed in the Roman Catholic church, when even the clergy were kept in ignorance of its contents. How great was that darkness, when the whole Christian world tamely sub- mitted to such spiritual tyranny, and kings and princes were the dupes of wicked, designing, and ignorant priests ! How little are those blessings, which we enjoy in our day, considered and valued by some, who in their indifference to them, and under a supposition, that the spirit of popery is changed, see no danger in taking off* a salutary restraint, by which our pious ancestors sought to guard and maintain that liberty of conscience, for which they were ready to shed their blood. Surely, re- straint by wholesome laws cannot be called slavery by men who know how to distinguish between liberty and licentiousness. 29th. At home or abroad, by sea or land, wherever I am, I can never forget the mournful event of this day, when our family and church were bereft of that excel- lent man, my father, in the year 1786. Though now nearly thirty years are gone by, yet, when the return of this day brings his death to my recollection, I feel some recurrence of the pangs, which then seized my heart. But I remember, that once in his last illness, calling me to his bedside, he expressed himself to the following ef- fect, in consequence of the lamentations of a friend, who had just left the room : " There is nothing, my dear son, that grieves me more, than to hear such complaints; not because, far from flattering me, they only remind me the more forcibly of my defects, but because they evince a deplorable want of knowledge of, and confidence in, the dealings of God with His Church and servants. He wants none of us ; but if He is pleased to use us, surely VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 23 He knows best, when to put down one tool and take up another. And will He suiTer any part of his work to stand still, for want of instruments to work with? No! He will find such as are suited to His hand, and to the times and circumstances, when they are to be employed." This is indeed true, but I yet believe, that the concur- rent testimony of all who knew my late father, will per- mit me to say, that, taking his character in a general sense, and viewing him as a man and as a christian, we shall not soon look on his like again. To-day there was a considerable swell from the south- west, which is as regularly met with in these seas, as the north-west swell in the northern hemisphere. Some slight squalls passed by on each side of us, and a water- spout was seen in the west. 30th. We were agreeably roused from sleep before four in the morning by news, that a large ship was ap- proaching. A general scramble ensued, to prepare par- cels of letters to be sent to England. On hailing, she proved to be the Sydney Cove from Rio de la Plata, bound to Liverpool. Our captain immediately went on board and staid some time. Meanwhile the two vessels got pretty close together. On his return, he brought a present of half a sheep just killed, but could get no fruit. The Sjdney Cove had encountered a very heavy gale from the eastward twenty days ago, while we were in smooth water. Her captain was glad to rectify his reckoning by the calculations made by our chronometer, from which his log differed widely. The morning was beautiful, and the sun rose majestically from the bosom of the ocean. I read to-day a pamphlet entitled " The Spirit of Bri- tish Missions." It is a compilation of various accounts of all the existing missionary societies, with addresses and exhortations, showing great earnestness and zeal in the cause. With much candour and liberality the author brings into notice the labours of every missionary society now existing in Britain. December 1st. We have now been tvi^o months at sea, and some of us began to look with eagerness to the con- clusion of our voyage. But we have no cause for com- 24 JOURNAL OP A plaint. Rather ought we to be very thankful to Him, whom wind and waves obey, that our voyage has been attended with no disaster whatever; and though some- times annoyed by calms, we have seldom met with con- trary winds, or any thing like a storm. Ever since we entered the south-east trades, the sails have nearly stood in the same position ; and by many favourable shifts of wind, we have been able to get better to the eastward than is usually done in these latitudes. 3d. Being Advent Sunday, we used the Liturgy ap- pointed for the day, and the discourse delivered by bro- ther Clemens was suitable and impressive. To-day, a species of that curious animal, called by some the Portu- guese man of war, was thrown by a wave into the mizen chains, and brought on deck for our inspection. It seem- ed to be a young one, its body only three inches long, and shaped like that of a snail, quite transparent, of a light cerulean blue, passing into green towards the head, which had a kind of crest like a fan, also transparent and tinged with purple at the top. A number of an- tennae of a deep blue colour proceeded from the body, and a tail, from three to four feet long, looking like a string of small blue beads. On examining it more nar- rowly, Mr. Buck happening to prick its body with the sharp point of a penknife, it instantly shrunk together, and almost vanished, nothing but a small pulpy substance remaining. In the evening, there was much distant lightning towards the west. 4th. Having, during a sleepless night, been led into much reflection on different subjects, with which, during the last thirty years of my life, I have more or less been occupied, I determined to avail myself of my present leisure, to make some memorandums in ''^ Letters to my children^^^ whose affectionate and dutiful behaviour has ever been a subject of my thanksgiving to God. The execution of this project occupied me for some time, and proved a new and powerful remedy against languid feeling and impatience. These memorials relate to the origin, — 1st. Of my acquaintance with some of the most worthy men of the present age. 2d. Of the abolition of the slave-trade. 3d. Of the peculiar interest I feel in VI3IT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 25 missionary exertions. 4th. The views I have of the re- ligious influence of music. 5th. An account of several events, which call for gratitude to God for preservation, and tor other mercies, shown to mjself and family, &c. Vt these letters I finished five, befbre we reached the Cape. 5th. The black cook having been more conceited than successful m baking wheaten bread, Brother Thomsen oliered his services, with Mr. Buck, for his assistant. 1 hey commenced their operations this morning, and after some experiments, produced very good rolls for break- last. 1 he cook's darkened visage displayed indeed some uneasiness at being thus superseded, and his oven used by amateurs in the profession; but we all experienced the benefit of it, relishing what we knew had been pre- pared with clean hands. My appetite also was thereby much improved, and I believe, that the loss of it, and consequent decrease of strength, would at length have proved hurtful to my general health, and perhaps lower- ed my spirits, which were never more lively and active, had not this change of food afforded a seasonable relief. On this and the following days, we had strong, favoura- ble wind, and the ship went steadily through the water. We were now visited by various kinds of water-fowl* Cape pigeons, mother Carey's chickens, and several birds with long beaks, unknown to us. Porpoises a/so played about us; but, in general, we have lately appeared as if we were quite alone swimming in this vast ocean, not a creature approaching us. Our ship being new-copper- ed, the captain supposed, that the brightness of its bot- tom might alarm the finny inhabitants of the deep. 10th. The wind increased in strength, but remained in our favour. For the first time we had long-continued rain, which kept us all shut up in the cabin. We spent the time in reading letters from Greenland, received shortly before my departure from England. I sent my answers from Capetown, and they arrived safe, by way of Copenhagen, in Greenland, in the spring of 1816. None, indeed, of the many letters I wrote on board, and sent by various ships, and from the Cape, were lost, but all arrived sooner or later at the places of their destina- 4 26 JOURNAL OF A tion, in Greenland, Labrador, North America, the West Indies, Surinam, Sarepta near Astrachan, Germany, Denmark, and England ; which shows a facility of com- munication over all the world, unknown to former gene- rations, as the fruit of a widely extended and well ar- ranged commercial intercourse among civilized nations. 12th. To-day I read the first book of Esdras in the Apocrypha. I was much struck with many passages in it, relating to the coming of the Messiah, and the New Testament dispensation, and particularly with the 5th chapter, verse 40th. The weather was showery ; some seaweed floated by, and the people thought, that they had heard the report of a gun to the southward. But we remained alone, driven by a brisk southerly wind, rather too much to the east, a current from the south setting against us. We were to-day in latitude 34^ 23\ and the air in this southern hemisphere is much colder, than in the same degree and season in the northern : we were even glad to be on deck, to warm ourselves by the sun. 14rh. A small species of cat-fish was thrown onboard by a wave. Its appearance is singular. Its head in a bag^ with two large eyes, but without any thing deserv- ing the name of a body. Eight long tails or antennee proceed from the back of the head, two longer than the rest, and furnished with claws. All of them are orna- mented with pearls or beads on the edges. The whole fish was about six inches long. The cold was to-day ve- ry troublesome, and on account of the strong current from the south, and the state of the wind, we tacked, and stood towards the south, fearing to make the land too far to the northward. 15th. The captain, Mr. Buck, and two of the mission- aries, went out in the jolly boat, when Mr. Buck shot two albatrosses. This is a magnificent bird. The wings ex- tend to above eight feet, when spread. Its beak is about five inches long, hooked, and tipped with red, an orange- coloured line running along the upper edge. Its fore- he?.d broad, and, like the breast and belly, of the purest white, covered with the most beautiful, soft, downy plu- mage. Its webbed feet are white, and its wings black visit to SOUTH AFRICA, 27 and gr^y, and furnished with three joints. The first turns the wing, when at rest, towards the tail, the second back to the breast, and the third again towards the taih The tail is short in proportion to the size of the bird. Those shot were both ducks, and we supposed a much larger bird of the same kind, with a white back, which flew about the ship, but could not be shot, to be the drake. A smaller bird, called by some the Cape pigeon, came on board, and was killed. This pretty creature had a pointed bill, black, and about an inch and a half long; its crown black; its back, and the top of its wings, of a blueish gray ; its feet webbed, but furnished with long sharp claws, like a land-bird ; its belly and throat snow-white. The whole bird about a foot long from the head to the tip of the tail, which is forked and fan-sha- J)ed. About noon, and for several hours, the heavens being remarkably clear and cloudless, but the air filled with a reddish haze, the sun was surrounded by a very large perihelion, in appearance about ten diameters from its orb : towards the east, its brightness was so great, that it faintly showed prismatic colours. The captain obser- ved, that he had never seen a similar phenomenon : but I remember, when I was in Germany, during a remarka- bly cold winter, that, on a bright day, Fahrenheit's ther- mometer being at 28^ below 0. a similar exhibition was seen. A bright circle surrounded the sun, other circles passing through its centre, and intersecting the former* Where the intersections took place, very bright spots ap- peared, called mock-suns. This evening, the clouds in the west were beautifully tinged with brown, but seem- ed at variance both with each other, and with the wind : the sky had appeared thus for some days, the clouds ta- king a course in our favour, while the wind remained contrary. We hoped, therefore, for a favourable change ; nor were we disappointed. 16th. The air and water seemed filled with all kinds of birds, flying or swimming. The albatrosses were the most interesting. They seem to rise heavily from the water, and for some time keep flying not far from its sur- face. By degrees they mount up, and soar to a great 28 JOURNAL OF A height, where they hover hke a kite, wheehng about^ and approaching without much fear towards the ship, little aware of the preparations making for their destruc- tion ; or rather bidding defiance to our marksmen, who with all their exertions could never hit, nor even frighten, any one of them. I protested against firing at inoft'ensive creatures, without any prospect of profiting by their death ; for as the boat had been painted, and could not be used to fetch them out of the water, if shot, the cru- elty of wounding or killing them, merely to show skill in shooting, was manifest. I grant, that for the purpose of obtaining food, or even for examination of any unknown animalj one may kill without offence; but if that cannot be done, we have no right to take away life. My ex- hortations were at first disregarded, and my arguments pronounced overstrained ; but by degrees, aided by the total failure of the sport, they availed, to the preserva- tion of many of our winged visiters, who indeed deserv- ed to be spared, if only for the entertainment they afford- ed us. Cape pigeons now and then alighted upon the sternsail booms, or on the bowsprit, for rest; but if one had gained a seat, it would not suffer another to sit down beside it, but in that case chattered and quar- relled, and at length fought, till either himself or his neighbour was forced off. Their look and habits seem like those of a land-bird, but we saw one arrive with a small fish in its bill. Their figure is remarkably neat : when they fly, they contract or spread their fan-shaped tails, and when sitting, cross the ends of their long wings over their tails, so as to give them the appearance of be- ing doubly forked. Bottle-nosed porpoises, also, of va- rious sizes, played often about the ship; and a shark was seen scudding along, on some murderous errand. 20th. Towards evening the sky looked threatening- in the west : and after sunset, it began to blow hard, and the sea was magnificently restless. The waves frequent- ly heat over our bows, and we had little rest during the night, on account of the ship's motion and the roaring of the sea, which we had never heard before to that de- gree. About midnight, a tremendous sea broke over our stern, with a rattling noise ; but after so long a voy- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 29 age, we were no more so much affected by these alarms; and knowing that the wind was in our favour, felt rather thankful for the speed, with which we ran through the water, at the rate of eight knots and a half an hour. 21st. Being St. Thomas's day, we sung the usual Liturgy appointed for that day in our Church, and were led into much useful meditation on that most remarka- ble account given by the Evangelist of our Saviour's ap- pearing to His unbeHeving disciple, when, by beholding the marks of the wounds in His hands, feet, and side, proving Him to be verily the same Jesus, who was cru- cified, dead and buried, but now risen again, a convic- tion was wrought in his heart, that He was his Lord and God. From this event, those who go forth to preach the Gospel, may learn a most important lesson. 22d. The wind had turned against us in the night, and cast a damp upon the sanguine hopes of some of our par- ty, that we should soon see the Table-Mountain. The sea appeared wild, and during the afternoon had chang- ed its colour. A sailor was sent to the mast-head to look for land, but the foggy appearance of the horizon pre- vented his seeing it. By the captain's reckoning, we were only forty-five miles off. At ten at night, the wa- ter had a singular appearance. It looked muddy and white, and was plentifully bestrewed with sparks. The waves, whose foaming had appeared extremely bright, had subsided, and the captain felt some alarm. We hove to ; but, on sounding, no bottom was found with a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms. We therefore kept under an easy sail all night. 23d. The wind turned against us, and the sea became restless. All at once, the second mate, who had taken his station in the main-top, roused us from our dulness, by calling out '^ Land !" He discovered it among light clouds to the south-east. It was the Table-Mountain, and some of the adjoining hills. The captain being call- ed up, expressed his disappointment, on finding it lying in that direction. As the wind changed a point or two in our favour, we got on slowly towards it, and hoped soon to reach Table-Bay, when suddenly it fell calm, and the rolling of the ship became troublesome. Mean- 30 JOURNAL OF A while, as the weather cleared up, leaving only some white clouds on the Table-Mountain and the DevilVHlil, we were exceedingly delighted with the view before us. Besides the magnificent group of rocky mountains to which the Table-Mountain belongs, there appeared, farther inland, a very picturesque range, of singular shapes, some with rocky peaks, others flattened like Ta- ble-Mountain. We spent the afternoon at the mercy of the waves, anxiously waiting for a wind. 24th. There was somethmg rather distressing in our present situation. We were at the entrance of the bay, but in danger of being again driven out to sea ; which is not uncommon off the Cape. The captain, to our sor- row, had hurt his head so much, that for some hours he was quite disabled. Meanwhile, advantage having been taken of every short puff of wind to get in closer, we found ourselves in the morning of the 24th near Robben Island, in the neighbourhood of which rocks are nume- rous and dangerous. A current setting towards them, the want of wind made our entrance from the north-west rather hazardous, and we waited anxiously for the sea breeze. The sky was perfectly clear, and the sun rose with great majesty, behind the Stellenbosch mountains. About eight, a gentle breeze sprung up, and we sailed forward. A grampus followed us, and numerous large gulls, with white bodies, and black wings, tipped with white edgings, hovered about the ship, as we entered the bay. Table-Bay is surrounded by very picturesque scenery, upon which the eye may feast for a long time without weariness. We therefore did not regret the slowness, with which we approached the anchoring-place, off the town. Capetown presents itself pleasantly situated at the foot of the Table-Mountain. The whiteness of its buildings gives it a cheerful appearance; but the low tower of theCalvinist church, surmounted by a squat py- ramidal steeple, is its only prominent feature. As we moved slowly forward, we were boarded by the har- bour-master, who came to demand the mail-bags. The doctor accompanied him, to examine into the state of health of the crew and passengers. Before this has VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 31 been done, no one is suffered to land. A pilot having brought the ship to an anchor, I went on shore, to in- quire about lodgings, and having met with a most cor- dial reception from our worthy friend Mrs. Disandt and her family, returned on board with her son Mr. Daniel Disandt, to bring the company on shore. We landed at the pier, and soon found ourselves com- fortably lodged at Mrs. Disandf s house, in the Graave Straat, not far from the church, thankful to God, that we had now reached the place of our destination, after so safe and prosperous a voyage. CHAPTER 11. Transactions on our arrival at Capetown. Journey to Gruenekloof. Bullock Wagons described. First meet^ ing with the Christiari Hottentots. Conclusion of the year 1815. December 24th. We had not been long on shore, before Mr. Henry Hancke, a friend of Mrs. Disandt's family, came to bid us welcome, and kindly offered to render us every assistance. From this gentleman I have received so many favours during the whole time of my abode at the Cape, that I should not discharge the debt of grati- tude I owe to him, did I not, immediately on introducing his name into my narrative, express my great obligations to him, as they regard both the mission and my own per- son. He had promised our late worthy friend, Mr. Disandt, shortly before his death, that he would not only befriend his family, and assist them with his advice, but endeavour to promote the interests of the Brethren's Mission among the heathen in this colony, to which Mr. Disandt had always approved himself a kind friend and benefactor. M|r. Hancke has in every respect fulfilled the wishes of his dying friend wnth exemplary faithful- ness, and both the family and the mission have derived the most essential benefit from his active services. To find such a friend on our arrival, added to the kind and 32 JOURNAL OF A hospitable reception we met with from Mrs. Disandt and her children, made us soon forget the tediousness of a long vo) age, and feel ourselves quite at home in her house. The first conversation I had with Mr. Hancke upon the general concerns of our mission at Gruenekloof, con- siderably relieved my mind, and I perceived, that, by the gracious providence of God, things were in such a state of preparation, that my transactions with his Excel- lency, the Governor, and with the colonial Secretaries, would be rendered much more easy, than I expected. As they have no relation to the journey and the general state of the Mission, they will, of course, form no part of this narrative. After dinner, Mr. Hancke proposed a walk, to see the town. Passing through several streets, we entered the Governor's, late the Company's, gardens, which afford to the inhabitants a pleasant promenade. The avenues are planted with oak of luxuriant foliage, skirted on each side by hedges of myrtle. The ground is laid out in squares, enclosed between high hedges. Within a stone fence, several ostriches and other birds, and in a separate building, a lion, lioness, a tyger, and two or three more wild awimals were kept. Leaving the gar- dens, we walked to the foot of Table-Mountain. Alrea- dy before we landed, we had observed a white mist creeping up from the south, through the opening between the Devirs-Hill and the flat summit of Table-Mountain. This had now nearly covered the former, and was fast spreading along the rocky sides and summit of the latter, carrying with it a blast of wind, which in a short time grew so strong, that we could hardly stem its force. The change from the most clear, calm, and warm weather, to storm and fog, was almost instantaneous ; and before we could reach any kind of shelter, we were driven alono- by the gale, shivering with cold, and glad to make the best of our way towards home. The storm proved also a great annoyance to several groups of males and fe- males, chiefly slaves, and other people of colour, met on the common, carousing, playing, or dancing, as is usual here on Sundays and holidays. The variety of faces. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 3.1 oomplexions, and dresses, seen among the common peo- ple, is very striking. The greater part are black or tawny. Not many genuine Hottentots, but various mix- tures between Hottentots and slaves or other natives of the Mozambique shore, Malays, and negroes, have here their residence, and are known by the general name of bastards. Many are Mahomedans; but there appears little religious animosity among them, every one doing what seemeth good in his own eyes. As to the Christian inhabitants, the English, Dutch Calvinists, and German Lutherans, possess the churches; the two former join- ing in the use of the great church. The latter have lately obtained permission to build one for themselves. The streets are laid out in right angles ; the houseg stuccoed, whitened, and chiefly consisting of two stories, though a few of them exceed that height. Their gene- ral appearance is neat and clean. As in the towns in Holland, and some parts of Germany, large carved door-cases, grotesque decorations of gable-ends, and huge gates, leading to small houses, are met with here and there ; but, in general, it may well pass for an Eng- lish town. I gave notice of our arrival to the Missionaries at Groenekloof, by the usual Sunday's post, forwarded by a dragoon. We were sorry to miss the celebration of Christmas-Eve, in one of our settlements. 25th. Christmas-day. We attended divine service in the Lutheran church, of which the Rev. Mr. Hesse is minister. German hymns are sung, but the sermon is delivered in Low Dutch, a language, as yet, unintelligi* ble to us. The church is a handsome building, with three aisles; the roofs supported by columns of the Ionic order; the galleries judiciously placed behind them. The organ is new, and of considerable magnitude. The church has no steeple, but a short pyramid is placed on the pedi- ment over the entrance. When the service was over, Mr. Hancke accompanied me to the house of Mr. Alexander, the colonial Secreta- ry. Here I delivered my letters of introduction, and af- terwards called on the President of the court of justice, 5 34 JOURNAL- OP A Mr. Trutter, aiid on the Fiscal, Mr. De Nyssen. Some missionaries from other societies paid us agreeable visits. With one of them 1 took a walk towards evening, and noticed several objects, new to me. The mountains were enveloped in clouds, but the sky otherwise clear. We passed by some vineyards. The vines grow with- out espaliers, placed in rows, like currant-bushes in our gardens. When arrived at a certain height, the upper shoots are taken off, to increase the quantity of grapes. Fences of the large aloe, and of cactus or Indian fig, are common. Of pisang, we saw several large beds. 26th. In the forenoon, we had the great pleasure to see our missionary, Brother Schmitt and his wife arrive from Groenekloof, in a wagon, drawn by twelve bullocks. The unexpected information received of our arrival at the Cape, had made them take immediate steps to meet us. They had also provided wagons for our convey- ance to Groenekloof, where the Brethren Marsveld and Bonatz from Gnadenthal were soon expected. Mean- while, having occasion to call at a watchmaker's shop, we found him to be a lively old German, who entertained us with a narrative of his adventures. He gave us also an account of the dreadful plague of the small-pox, by which this colony was visited about four years ago, and a great number of people, of all ages and sexes, were carried off. He was one of those, who suffered most severely. Flags were hung out from the windows of those houses where the disorder raged, to mark them as pestiferous ; and thus for three months, he lived quite alone, in a dreadful state of mind and body, not expecting to survive. His friends placed victuals at the threshold of his door, but not even one of the family dared to approach or visit him in his affliction. " But,'' added he, " it was this affliction, that first taught me to know and fear God, and to con- sider the state of my immortal soul." 27th. I waited on Mr. Stoll, the landdrost of the Cape district, in which Groenekloof lies, and was by him intro- d(]ced to Colonel Bird, deputy colonial Secretary, through whom permission must be obtained to remain in the colo- tiy, and to proceed into the country. He received me and VISIT to SOUTH AFRICA. 35 the missionaries with great politeness. Having advised me to present my letters of recommendation to the Gover- nor with my own hands, Mr. Hancke was so obliging a^ to carry me to Newlands in his sociable. The road lies along the eastern side of Table-Mountain, which here pre- sents itself in shapes more picturesque and wild, than on the western, towards the town. The foot, both of the DevilVHill and Table-Mountain, is well clothed with witteboom, (protea argentea,) oak, and other trees, the verdure and foliage of which were in great perfection. To the left is the bay, and the low hills on its northern shore; but towards the north-east the magnificent range of mountains of Stellenbosch and Drakenstein form a no- ble horizon. Various singular plants adorn the hedges and banks on each side of the road, among which the huge bushes of Indian fig in full bloom ; the Chinese rose, growing to the height of sixteen or twenty feet; the aloe and pisang were particularly conspicuous. Ma- ny elegant houses, belonging to the citizens, with rich plantations surrounding them, lie along the foot of the mountains, precipices and grotesque rocks overhanging them in sullen majesty. We reached Newlands in about an hour, and found the Governor, Lord Charles Henry Somerset, at home. I presented to his Excellency the letters I had brought with me, and had a long conversa- tion with him on various subjects, in which he assured me of his favourable disposition towards our missionaries, ^nd his approbation of their exertions for the improve- ment both of the temporal and spiritual state of the Hot- tentots and other heathen tribes in this colony, a-s lik - wise of his readiness to remove every obstacle that might impede the prosecution of their labours. 28th. Having received an invitation from Mr. Schmidt, a gentleman possessing a farm in the kloof between the LionVHead and Table-Mountain, our whole party walk- ed to his house to breakfast. It lies about three English miles from the town. Passing through the yard of Mr. Zorn, formerly landdrost of the Cape district, we observ- ed a tame mongrose, or mausehund, from Java, a species of viverra, which ran about, and suffered itself to be handled. It was a beautiful creature, about a foot long. ^36 JOURNAL OF A with a sharp snout, from which the body rises, richly clo-* thed with fine long hair, to about four inches in height, sloping off again to the end of the tail. Its colour was dark oHve. When frightened or injured, it uttered a quick, jabbering noise. In its wild state, this creature is a most destructive depredator among all kinds of poultry, Mr. Schmidt's farm lies in a very romantic situation. It is built upon a mass of rock of coarse granite, contain- ing large chrystals of feldspath, apparently in a state of slow decomposition. To the left of the house is the bed of a torrent, passing through a deep ravine. After cross- ing it by a stone arch, the path leads to some huge blocks of granite, which form altogether a singular mass of rock, overspread by oaks and other trees and shrubs, affording shade to the cattle. The grounds are filled with all kinds of fruit-trees and useful plants, every one of which seems to grow luxuriantly. Peach and orange orchards, and beds of pisang and bamboos occupy the slope of the hill. — After some time spent with this hospi- table family, we returned, calling again at Mr. Zorn's house by the way. It is a good J)utch building, delight- fuily situated among shady groves of various trees. The garden abounds with a vast variety of large flowering- shrubs and plants. The portico or gallery running along the whole front of the building, has an espalier roof en- tirely covered with vines, the grapes hanging down in great profusion and beauty. An aviary contains some curious birds, both from Africa and the East Indies. Mr. Zorn was not at home : but we were hospitably received by Mr. Cloete, his son-in-law. Walking down the hill, the town presents itself very pleasantly, its streets crossing each other at right angles, with Table-Bay and the hilly country in the back-ground ; but the want of towers and other prominent features detracts from its beauty. On the road, we noticed some large spiders, red locusts, and grasshoppers, peculiar to the Cape. My time at home was taken up with visiting both the friends of the Mis- sion and some gentlemen in the public offices. Mr. Hancke also made me acquainted with Mr. Melville, Surveyor to the Government, with whom my readers VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 37 will become yet better acquainted in the course of this narrative. 29th. Finding that waiting for the landing of the whole of our baggage, would detain us too long at Cape- town, the Christmas holidays having intervened and caused delay at the Custom-house, we determined to pro- ceed to Groenekloof this afternoon. Mrs. Disandt's children brought me a cameleon, or, as the Dutch call it, a trapsoetjes, signifying an animal, thq^t walks cautiously. It is in shape and size like a common lizard, but with a proportion ably larger he^d, and longer tail, which it coils downwards. Its eyes are situated in prominent tubes, easily moved to and fro, up or down, towards any object before or behind, together or separately, in different directions. Its general colour is green and orange, but it changes with the place it oc- cupies among trees, grass, or stones. It has two toes on each foot, with which it clasps the small branches of the shrub or tree on which it may sit, drawing itself slowly along, or climbing from one to another. The whole crea- ture is covered with small protuberances, of various hues. About four o'clock P. M. we left Capetown, accompa- nied by the best wishes of our worthy and generous friends. Our caravan consisted of four wagons. The first, drawn by twelve, and the second, by fourteen bul- locks, were occupied by our own party. In the third, which was uncovered and drawn by sixteen, a young En- glishman, travelling our way, was allowed to have a seat. That, and the fourth, with fourteen bullocks, were appropriated for baggage and stores, destined for Groenekloof and its neighbourhood. The wagons in use at the Cape have a strong frame- work body, with wheels and axle-trees made of iron- wood, or other wood, equally hard and tough. A travel- ling-wagon is furnished with seats, suspended by leather straps, to give them play, which, in some respects, answers the purpose of springs, and with a tilt of mat- ting, covered with sailcloth supported by hoops of bam- boo. Curtains, of sailcloth or leather, hang before and behind, to secure the company against wind and rain. The bullocks draw by a wooden yoke, consisting of a 38 JOURNAL OF A strong bar laid across their necks, to which are fixed, in right angles downwards, four short pieces, so as to ad- mit the neck of each animal between two of them. These are kept in their places, by being tied together below the neck with a small thong. A strongly plaited lea- ther thong runs from the ring at the end of the pole to the yoke of the first pair of oxen, being fastened, in passing, to the middle rings of each yoke. The bullocks, by pushing with their shoulders, seem to draw with ease. The Hottentot driver has a whip, the stick of which 4s a strong bamboo, twelve and more feet long, and the lash, a plaited thong of equal or greater length. With this, to European grasp, unwieldy, instrument, he not only cracks very loud, but hits any one of his bullocks with the greatest surety. But the chief engine of his govern- ment is his tongue, and he continually calls to his cattle by their names, directing them to the right or left by the addition of the exclamations of hott and haar, occasion-al- ly enforcing obedience to his commands by a lash, or by whisking or cracking his whip over their heads. A toy leads the foremost oxen by a thong fastened about their horns, and they seem to follow him willingly. We ^ere accompanied a short way by our friends, Mr. Hancke and Mr. Daniel Disandt. The weather was clear, and the view of the mountains delightful. The English have made good roads in the immediate neighbourhood of Capetown, and to Simon's Bay; but we soon left them, and dragged through deep sand, al- most the whole way to Groenekloof No trees, and but few shrubs, adorn the waste, but we noticed many pret- ty species of heath, and some elegant flowers, unknown to us. The most common plant is the so-called Hotten- tot fig. From beneath the sand is protruded, most of the way to the drift or fording-place of the Salt river, a porous iron-stone of singular character, appearing here and there perforated, like a honeycomb, or a number of nuclei, cleaving together, the cavities filled with ochre. This iron-stone is found almost in every part of the colo- ny, both in the Cape district, and beyond the great ridges of mountains, in a variety of forms, in pebbles, large lumps, scattered about among the sand, or in veins. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 39 About sunset, we reached the large salt pans near the Riet Valley, so called from the quantity of reed-rushes growing in it. The people in the adjoining farm very civilly sent to invite us to the house j but we excused ourselves, wishing yet to proceed farther, before we took up our night's lodging in the wilderness. In about an hours time, we unyoked the bullocks and left them to seek their supper among the bushes. This is always done, if possible, at a place where there is a stream or pool of fresh water. The Hottentots having Ughted a fire, a mat was spread on the ground to leeward of a large bush of the poison-apple^ which screened us from a sharp south-east wind, black clouds on the horizon threatening us with a stormy, and perhaps rainy night. Coffee was boiled; of which, with some eggs, cold meat, cakes, and milk, we made an excellent supper, sitting round the fire. After our repast, we retired into the wagon to rest. The fire going out, and no preparation for our departure being made, Brother Schmitt, on in- quiry, found, that eleven oxen were missing, for which the Hottentots had been searching in vain. To point out to the latter the place of our encampment, as well as to guard against the cold in this dark night, some of us rekindled the fire, keeping up a constant blaze, by feed- ing it with rhinoceros bushes, a resinous plant with large roots, but easily pulled up. After some hours, all hopes of finding the lost cattle having vanished, a differ- ent arrangement was made, and we proceeded with two wagons, leaving the other two to follow us. 30th. We passed by a farm on the Blauberg, belong- ing to a Mr. Kotzee, and about sunrise reached a place called Trefonteyn, an appendage to a farm, belonging to a Mr. Kous. Here we made another halt, and break- fasted under a thicket, consisting of different kinds of brush-wood and flowering shrubs. Into this cover, we saw a snake hastening with a young frog, entangled in its coils, but its swiftness was such, that all our exertions to destroy it only rescued the wretched captive. We now travelled through a barren, sandy heath, but the weather having cleared up, the sight of the hills about Groenekloof afforded us much pleasure, and brother 40 JOURNAL OF A Schmitt pointed out the spot, where, some years ago, he narrowly escaped death, in a rencontre with a tyger. Being about an hour's drive from the settlement, we dis- cerned at some distance a group of Hottentots, men, wo- men and children, who had come out to meet us, with the missionary, Brother Fritsch, standing on a small ri- sing ground near the road. As soon as the wagons had reached the spot, we alighted, and were welcomed by the Hottentots, who joined in singing that hymn, " JYow let us praise the Ltord^''^ &c. To describe our feelings on this occasion is not in the power of words. The various subjects for reflection, which rushed upon my mind at once, on seeing this com- pany, lately a scattered race of wretched, ignorant, and wicked heathen, but now brought together as a people of God, among whom His word dwells daily and richly, made me inwardly exclaim : " Where is the wisdom of the wise ! where is the disputer of this world !" and the visionary theorist! Here is proof by facts, that " the Word of the Cross is the power of God unto salvation to all them that believe," Here is seen the effect pro- duced by the preaching of the gospel of a crucified Sa- viour, unadorned and unaided by human eloquence ! I was greatly affected, beyond the power of utterance, and we all stood in silent devotion, listening to the sweet voi- ces, which formed the delightful chorus. We shook hands with all of them, old and young, while, in the most affectionate and humble manner, they expressed their joy at our arrival. The whole procession now moved forward, some of the Hottentot women in an open bul- lock-wagon, which they had brought with them; the rest, with the men, partly on horseback and partly on foot. The settlement is seen like a fruitful field in the midst of a desert, and the road to the missionaries' hou- ses lies through a small poplar wood. About five P. M. we arrived at the dwelling-house, and met with a most cordial welcome from aiMther party of Hottentots, who had assembled at the door, and expressed their gratitude, that God had again sent teachers to them, by singing several verses, and by unaffected declarations of their joy* VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 41 After dinner, some of us walked out to see the settle- ment, entered some cottages, and found every where friendly faces and a kind reception. In the usual even- ing-meeting, Brother Fritsch addressed the congrega- tion on the mercy of God, in granting, from time to time, a supply of ministers and teachers, who were willing to devote themselves to the work of God among the hea- then, and especially among the Hottentots; and in prayer commended those who had just now arrived, to the guidance of His Holy Spirit, in all their future la- bours; praising Him for having brought them safely to this place. I then delivered a salutation from the Socie- ty for the Furtherance of the Gospel, and all our congre- gations in England, to the congregation of Christian Hot- tentots at Groenekloof. Brother Clemens did the same from the Elder's Conference of the Unity,'^ and the congregations in Germany. The Hottentots, of whom about a hundred and fifty were present, answered by loud thanksgivings. On quitting the chapel, several came to shake hands WMth us, saying, that they were not worthy that we should come so far to serve them. 31st. After the forenoon's service, a Hottentot accost- ed me, desiring to speak with me alone. As I could not understand him, I requested Brother Schmitt to be pre- sent. The poor man came to make confession of his having been seduced by an old companion at Capetown, to drink more 'than he ought to have done ; that he had thus overslept himself behind a bush, at the place where we spent the first part of the night, and suffered the cat- tle to go astray; and that he now came to ask forgive- ness. Though his situation at that time was not ob- served by us, yet it had given offence to the Hottentots; and we represented to him, that he had not only hurt his own soul, but brought disgrace upon the cause of tlie gospel : that therefore it was necessary, for the present, to exclude him from the meetings of the baptized ; to which sentence. Brother Schmitt added some serious '* The Committee or Board of Bishops and Elders of the Church of the United Brethren, appointed by the General Synods for the su- perintendence and management of the affair^ of the Church from one Synod to another. (See Crantz's History of the Brethren.) 42 JOURNAL OF A and fatherly admonitions. His tears showed the grief he felt, and, as we hoped, his true repentance. This was the first instance 1 saw of that great change wrought in the heart of a heathen, who in his former state, thought drunkenness no sin, but now mourned over his being again overtaken, and seduced to the commission of the crime. In the afternoon, all the missionaries met in confer- ence, with a view to the conclusion of the year, and offered up prayer and praise to God our Saviour for all His mercies vouchsafed to them as a family, during the year past. In the evening, we walked into the settle- ment, and entered several houses and huts. In one we conversed with a venerable old man, upwards of eighty, who had descendants in the fifth generation. The con- clusion of the year was made at twelve o'clock at night, in the manner usual in all our congregations, and we felt ourselves truly united in s[)irit with all, who here and in every place call upon the name of the Lord, and consti- tute altogether the family of God on earth, however distinguished by names, forms, and customs. CHAPTER III. Account of Groenelcloof. Burial-ground^ and part of the Settlement^ described. Conversation with the Hottentots. Arrival of missionaries from Gnadenthal. Father Mars- veld. Conferences, Captain Klapmus, Order of Bap- tism. Journey to Capetown. Mr. Polemaii^s description of a Cave in Kancro. Visit at JVewlands. Mountains of Sfellenbosch. Farms and Vineyards. Hottentot HoU land'^ S'Kloof. Journey to Gtiadenthal. Arrival. Groenekloof is the name given to a district, situated about thirty miles to the north of Table-Bay, comprising several large farms. That, now occupied by the mis- sionaries of the United Brethren, which is more particu- larly called Groenekloof, was formerly known by the name of De Kleene Post, (The Little Post.) The house VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 43 and premises were originally in possession of the Dutch Company, but latterly let to a farmer. After the expira- tion of his lease, in 1808, the Earl of Caledon, then Governor of the Cape, having observed the benefits arising to the Hottentot nation from Christian instruc- tion, prevailed upon the Brethren's missionaries at Gna- denthal, to form a settlement at this place, where many fa vihties existed for the maintenance of a congregation ol l^hnstian Hottentots. The Government at home hav- ing confirmed the grants the Brethren were put in pos- session, and a number of Hottentots soon flocked to them from various places, both in and out of the colony. The tract of land, given to the Mission, comprehends Groenekloof proper, with Lauweskloof andCruywagens- Kraal, two Hottentot stations. At the former, a Hot- tentot captain, with about a hundred persons of that nation, resided, previous to the establishment of the Mission. At the end of the year 1815, the number of inhabitants in the settlement at Groenekloof amounted to three hundred, old and young. January 1, 1816. I took a walk to see the burial- ground, lying on the hill, north of the dwellings. It is a square piece of ground divided into four equal compart- ments by gravel walks, and surrounded by a mound and ditch. On the mound is planted a fence of cactus or In- dian fig, which, when grown up, will be a strong barrier against the intrusion of cattle. About thirty graves are at present in the ground, placed, according to the cus- tom of onr Church, in regular rows. The graves of the Hottentots are not marked by grave-stones, but by an upright piece of wood at the head of each, with a num- ber painted on it, referring to the church-register, which shows the name and age of the person interred. From hence, the houses and huts of the Hottentots appear in the valley, the little wood separating them from the farm and missionaries' dweUings. The valley to the north and east is bounded by low bushy hills, on which lie several detached fragments of granite, of various shapes and sizes. A group of larger masses near the old stables forms a very picturesque assemblage of rock, interspersed with trees, stnd in many parts covered with 44 JOURNAL OF A aloes, many of them at present in fall bloom. Except in very dry seasons, there is a little rivulet running at their foot towards the village. These stones and the cavities among them serve as a retreat for mausehunde or mon- gooses, muskiliat cats, and other destructive animals, as also for serpents, salamanders, lizards, mice, and moles. From the heights above the burial-ground, a pleasant view of Table-Mountain and its companions presents itself, and towards the east, part of the Stellenbosch range beyond the Dassenberg, and some low^er hills are visible. At ten o'clock, public service was held, as usual on New- Year's day. I counted one hundred and seventy Hottentots present. Brother Schmitt delivered a power- ful discourse on the name of Jesus. The attention of the auditory was such, that not one turned his eye off the preacher, but they all seemed as if they would eat his vrords. After the sermon, a child was baptized. I was much struck with the solemn manner^ in which the pa- rents are always previously asked, in presence of the v^^hole congregation, whether it is their intention to edu- cate the child, now to be baptized, in the fear and admo^ nition of the Lord, and to devote it from its infancy to Him alone, as His redeemed property. Their answer in the affirmative is generally given with an expression of great sincerity and earnestness. During the whole day, parties of Hottentots came to w^ish their Teachers a happy New-Year. Lehrer or Teachers is the name they generally give to the missionaries. In the evening, some of us went into the settlement, and visited several families. The cottages are of differ- ent dimensions, materials, and workmanship. Some of the inhabitants are building houses with stone walls, which by degrees will become more general. In one house, where the people were yery neatlv dressed, were we treated with a pie, usually baked by them for the New-Year. It tasted well, and they were much pleased to see ns partake of their humble meal. 2d. The morning was spent in conversation concern- ing the affairs of the Mission. After dinner, I took a walk up the hill to the west pf the farm. It is a steep VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 45 bank, covered in most places with shrubs and brush- wood. A deep gully divides it from the hill on which the burial-ground is situated, being the effect of torrents during the rainy season. The earth is every where co- loured by iron, and of a deep brown or yellowish hue. The pebbles, with which the surface is plentifully strew- ed, are chiefly iron-stone, though mixed with some small fragments of quartz of so hard a texture, that it strikes fire, and was mistaken for flint. The waste produces some beautiful plants, among which 1 particularly noti- ced the Fahlbar, a species of aloe, the leaves of which are round, of a pale blue colour, and spreading near the ground, the stalk about a foot long, and the flowers, which are bell-shaped, and of a deep scarlet, hanging down in clusters. They adorn the bank behind Brother Schmitt's garden. 3d. Being a day appointed for the candidates for bap- tism to converse w^th the missionaries and receive their advice, I attended, and was much pleased with the unre- served manner in which they expressed their thoughts and the state of their minds. Whoever charges the Hottentots wnth being inferior to other people of the same class, as to education and the means of improve- ment, knows nothing about them. They are possessed of good sense and even of considerable gifts, in speaking on various subjects^ within the reach of their apprehen- sion. Some accompany their speech WMth gesticulations, which are natural and very unlike the grimaces of cer- tain Europeans. The manner of the missionaries in con- versing with, and instructing them, struck me as pecu- liarly calculated to call forth their confidence, as w^ell as to impress their minds with great seriousness. When / ventured to address the Hottentots, I felt myself a great w^ay behind these worthy men. While we were thus engaged, a letter announced the approach of the missionaries Marsveld and Bonatz from Gnadenthal, whose wagons were seen moving slowly across the waste from the Dassenberg. Men and women went out to meet them. It was to me an affecting sight to see, with what joy the Hottentots bid them welcome as they alighted at the door. They flocked round Father 46 JOURNAL OF A Marsveld to express to him that love, esteem and grati- tude, which is so justly due to this venerable man, who, with his two younger associates, renewed the Cape mis- sion in 1792, and now, at the age of seventy -one, is yet full of life and activity in prosecuting this work of God. I could hardly press forward to add my expression of joy, on beholding at length the face of one, whose cha- racter I have so long known and revered. All rejoiced to see Brother Bonatz, who had been long absent from Groenekloof, return in safety. When the friendly bustle of bidding welcome was over, the people formed a semicircle in the yard, and sung a hymn of praise to God for having brought the travellers safe to their journey's end. All was yet new and highly interesting to me ; I felt delighted to see and converse with the Hottentots from Gnadenthal, and to be a witness of that truly christian union of heart, which produced the most sincere expression of friendship and brotherly love between them and those of Groenekloof. Even the sight of the Gnadenthal oxen added to my pleasure, as they were shortly to draw" us to that place. During the following days, we were engaged in con- ferences relating to the affairs of the Mission in this colo- ny, and made several arrangements. Brother Stein was appointed to remain as an assistant at Groenekloof, and the rest of the party to go to Gnadenthal. In my walks, I made daily some new discovery, and every portion of time was employed in becoming better acquainted with those subjects, which were, at present, to be the business of my life. God mereifally granted to me a continuance of health and spirits, nor did the heat affect me. 4th. In the evening-meetings I was surprised to hear, with what lively zeal and strength of voice, Father Marsveld addressed the congregation. He observed, that as the time of his departure out of this world was drawing near, he rejoiced once more to see this congre- gation of Christian Hottentots, and to join them in prais- ing the Lord, for gathering a flock from among their na- tion, at this place, adding suitable exhortations and ad- monitions. The people could hardly restrain their desire of expressing their thanks, till he had finished his speech, VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 47 when there was a general burst of thanksgiving from old and joung. 6th. The festival of Epiphany was celebrated as usual, with much solemnity, being the commemoration of the first call of the heathen to their incarnate God and Sa- viour. The history of that event was read and explain- ed to the congregation, from the second chapter of St Matthew's gospel. After the public service in the after- noon, two catechumens were baptized. This was the first baptism of converts from among the heathen, at which I was present; and the whole transaction made an indehble impression on my mind. One of them, whom / baptized, was a daughter of the Hottentot captain Klap- mus, of Lauweskloof. Her father had formerly been a noted enemy of the missionaries. His daughter, at the commencement of the Mission at Groenekloof, joined in opposition to the missionaries with much bitterness ; but has since heard the gospel, and been convinced of the necessity of conversion. Though the old man persisted in his hostile disposition, he would not oppose his daugh- ter's wishes to be instructed in the doctrines of Chris- tianity, and even now declared his satisfaction at her being baptized. He was present, and afterwards visited the missionaries in their house ; by whom he was kindly received, and admonished not to put off the day of his conversion. He even shed tears at parting, and we hoped, that, in his case also, by the Lord's unlimited mercy, " where sin abounded, grace may yet much more abound." Having been requested to insert, in this narrative, some account of the internal course of the Missions of the Brethren among the heathen, as I wish to avoid pro- lixity, I will here, once for all, describe the order of baptism. After the public service on Sunday morning, the in- fants of baptized parents are brought by them into the -church ; the mother being generally churched at the same time. First, a short hymn is sung, and a discourse deHvered, addressed principally to the children, expla- natory of the nature and intent of this ordinance, and the sacredness of the covenant therein made between 48 JOURNAL OF A the Lord and the person thus initiated into His Church on earth. After the discourse, the usual Hturgy is read, and the parents being interrogated, respecting their in- tention to educate their child in the fear and admonition of the Lord, as above described, (p. 44,) baptism is ad- ministered, in the manner usual in our European congre- gations, one or two of the missionaries and their wives generally standing sponsors. Adults are baptized in a public meeting on Sundays and festival days, in the afternoon. The candidates ap- pear decently dressed in white clothes. A hymn being sung, and a suitable discourse delivered, a vessel, cover- ed with a white cloth, containing the water, with a small basin or laver in it, is placed before the candidate. The liturgy, prescribed to be used at the baptism of adults from among the heathen, is then read; and the ques- tions, therein contained, being put to the candidates and answered, a prayer is offered up, after which the bap- tism takes place. The candidate kneeling and bending forward, the water is three times poured upon his head with the basin or laver, at the words " in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost," when, if there are more to be baptized, the vessel being removed from one to the other by the chapel-servant, the missionary proceeds to the next, assisted by other ordained Brethren, if a larger number require it. The whole congregation then kneeling down, a doxology is sung, and the service concluded, by pronouncing the blessing: after which the newly-baptized come to the missionaries into the vestry, and are exhorted to faith- fulness and constancy in the performance of their bap- tismal vow. They are likewise taught to know and pronounce the names given to them. Their gratitude and compunction of heart on these solemn occasions are generally expressed more by tears than words. 7th. Old Captain Klapmus attended the morning- service, and seemed affected both by Father xMarsveld's sermon, and by the subsequent exhortations of the mis- sionaries whom he visited. Having, for the present, finished my engagements at Groenekloof, I resolved to accompany the missionaries VISIT TO SOUTH AF*RICA» 49 ping to Gnadenthal, but as part of our baggage was left at the Cape, and some other business required my presence in the town, I availed mjself of the opportuni- ty of a wagon going to fetch the goods, and set out in company of Brother Bonatz about sunset. At midnight, we made halt at Trefontejn, and the wind being h.Vh and cold, had some trouble to get a fire lighted and cof- tee boded under a bush, where we spent about two hours, vyhile the oxen were feeding. The morning was fane, and I walked several miles. The Table-Mountain appears here so near, on the south side of the bay, that the hopes of soon reaching its foot made the iourney round the head of the baj appear rather tedious, espe- ciaJlj as the deep sand prevented much haste. 8th. On our arrival at Mr. Disandt's house, I found a letter from his Excellency the Governor, with an invita- tion for me to come and spend some days with him at JNewIands. However, as a Dutch squadron had this morning arrived with troops, destined to take possession ol Java, and other islands, restored to the Dutch by the English, and I was aware of the Governor's attention to the Admiral and officers, I went to the colonial office to inquire of Colonel Bird, how his Excellency was en- gaged. Here I met, both with the Governor himself and With H. Alexander, Esq. first colonial Secretary. An interesting conversation ensued on various subjects connected with our missionary establishments in the colony, during which his Excellency displayed great candour and willingness to render every assistance and remove every existing obstacle. He insisted on my dinmg with him at Newlands, and Mr. Alexander took me out and home in his phaeton. I met there Mr. Trut- ter, President of the Court of Justice, and his lady. 9th. Mr. Alexander, with whom we breakfasted, showed to Brother Bonatz and me his grounds, pointing out several particulars, in which the gardei» in our set- tlements might be improved. I returned to him to din-r ner, where I had the pleasure to meet several gentle- men whose conversation was in a great degree interest- ing and instructive ; Professor Reinward, going out with the Dutch fleet on a scientific tour to Java and other isl- 2 50 JOURNAL OF A ands ; Mr. Poleman, a medical gentleman of this town, of superior merit, whose acquaintance proved most agreeable and useful to me, during my stay at the Cape; Captain Hamilton, of the royal navy, an old ac- quaintance, who having accompanied Bonaparte to St. Helena, gave us a very interesting account of the voy- age. 10th. Mr. Alexander having proposed to take me to Hottentot's Holland, and to show me some improvements, both on his own property and on some farms near Stel- lenbosch, which might be applied in our settlements. Bro- ther Bonatz resolved to return with the wagon to Groe- nekloof, and with his party to meet me at Hottentot Hol- land's Kloof. I spent part of the forenoon at the Secre- tary's office, where I had much previous conversation with Mr. Alexander respecting the extension of the Mis- sion in the interior, and perceived with gratitude the readiness shown to forward the undertaking as recom- mended by the Government at home, and to furnish me with every useful information. ; To-day, I became acquainted with the Rev. Mr. Hesse, minister of the Lutheran church, a man universally and j deservedly respected, and found in him a true friend and adviser. With him and his family I spent much time most agreeably, whenever I visited Capetown. Calling on Mr. Poleman, he gave me an entertaining account of a journey he had made some time ago to a remarkable cavern in Kango, a part of the district of Zwellandam, from whence he had brought some very singular stalactites. It is, by his account, one of the lar- gest and most curious subterranean excavations in the known world, whose vast chambers and dark recesses have not yet been fully explored. The stalactites in some of its halls are from sixteen to twenty-four feet in height, forming majestic groups of columns, supporting, in appearance, immense domes. Mr. Poleman, whose ardour led him to venture into many passages and cavi- ties never yet visited, was in some places prevented from proceeding by huge dunghills made by imiumerable hosts of bats, which covered the walls and ceilings of the hor- rid dungeon. Contrast the life, which these leathern I VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 51 winged animals are doomed to suffer, with that of the feathered tribes, sporting in the unbounded regions of the air above us, and one might almost be led, by com- parison, to form an idea of the difference between the states of condemned and happy spirits hereafter. I also visited Mr. Villette's collection of the natural curiosities of this country. He stuffs birds, and preserves serpents and insects remarkably well. 11th. My intention to spend this day in writing and visiting some friends was frustrated, by Mr. Alexander's calling early to take me to Newlands to breakfast, at his Excellency's desire. As it appeared, that unreserved conversation with the Governor facihtated the business committed to me, I was glad of the opportunity to renew it; nor was I disappointed. After breakfast, we drove to Kerstenbosh, a country-house belonging to Mr. Alex- ander, at the foot of the rocky mountains south-west of Table-Hill. The country is wild, well wooded, and exhi- biting a rich profusion of curious shrubs and plants, some in flower. Rocks of singular shapes overhang the dark oak woods behind the house, and a cascade, issuing from the upper regions of these romantic hills, shoots down a dark glen. Among the woods and rocks wolves, jackals, and tygers, have a safe retreat. The soil is sandy, well watered, and consequently fruitful. The witteboom (silver-tree) grows here in abundance. After a short stay, we returned to town, passing through several new plantations of various kinds of trees, skirting the ascent towards the mountains, to the country-seat of the Honour- able General Meade, Deputy Governor of the colony. It is situated in the vineyards, and has extensive gardens,, in which some curious plants from Botany Bay and Chi- na, were cultivated with great care and success by the General, who is highly respected both in his military ca- Eacity, and as a man of great taste and science. His aving left the colony has caused universal regret. I spent the afternoon with the Reverend Mr. HessOv who showed me the church and premises belonging to the Lutheran congregation in this place. It is but of late years, that the Dutch would permit the Lutherans to have an establishment at the Cape. The spirit of tole- 52 JOURNAL OF A ration, introduced with the English government, has now set them quite athberty; and it redounds much to their honour, that, though a small congregation, and not rich, thej have made a most comfortable provision for their minister, and spared no expense in erecting a handsome church and parsonage-house. Mr. Hesse's garden is filled with a great variety of singular plants, trees, and shrubs, the produce both of this, and other southern re- gions. In his botanical researches, which serve him as a relaxation from the laborious duties of his station, he is encouraged and assisted by the friendship and skill of his neighbour Mr. Poleman ; and it were much to be wish- ed, that men so eminently qualified, would favour the lovers of botany with the result of their discoveries in that delightful branch of natural history. 12th. This morning 1 had some conversation with the Reverend Mr. M'Kenny, of the methodist community. He has been sent out to form a society of that persuasion at the Cape ; but meets with difficulties, as his commis- sion does not seem to be a mission to the heathen, but chiefly to regard the white settlers. The Governor is willing to promote every attempt to introduce Christian- ity among the heathen ; but to the multiplying of differ- ent religious sects at Capetown, many persons have great objections. At noon, I set out with Mr. Alexander and his lady for Stellenbosch. His travelling wagon was drawn by eight mules. The road to the half-way-house is through deep sands and a wild waste, but in most places covered with bushes and flowering shrubs, which though the summer was far advanced, still showed themselves with considerable splendour. The people at the house cook- ed some victuals, which we had brought with us, being themselves unprepared for visiters. The nearer we ap- proached the mountains, the more magnificent their rug- ged outline appeared, reminding me, both as to their height and general character, of the most picturesque part of the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland. 1 he descent into Stellenbosch is long and tedious, and wo did not reach the landdrost\s house till after sunset. Ihe landdrost, Mr. Van Rhyneveld was absent, but we VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 53 met with a hospitable reception from the family. After tea, I accompanied Mr. Alexander to see some English friends. The moon shone bright, and the evening air was highly refreshing, after the heat of the day. l.ith. 1 rose early, and walked out into the village. Nothing can be more delightful than the shady avenues planted in every street, defending the inhabitants and their dwellings from the burning rays of the sun. The Erste Revier is a swift flowing torrent, issuing from a gien in the mountains above the town, and its bed a vast assemblage of large stones and pebbles, forming an em- bankment or beach on each side, showing what force and extent the river assumes, when swollen by heavy rains in the hills. I walked about for nearly two hours, and was much entertained by many surrounding objects, es- pecially by the grotesque shapes of several hills and rocks in the grand chain. Returning, I stepped into the church, a plain building, in form of a cross, with an enor- mous door. It is furnished with chairs for the congrega- tion, and a few pews for the men in office. An old or- gan adorns the west end. The landdrost's house is a handsome mansion, with spacious and well-furnished rooms. Some of the largest oaks I have seen in the colony overshadow its front. After breakfast, we proceeded to the house of a weal- thy farmer, Mr. Van der Byl, who showed us his vine- yards, wine-press, cellars, gardens, and other premises. The family received us with great hospitality. Our road lay through the waste, along the great ridge of mountains, and presented us with beautiful scenery, especially wherever a farm-house, with its gardens and groves, furnished a foreground to the landscape. The next farm we visited was Mr. Meyburg's. The house and premises are well built, and the situation more plea* sant than that we had just left. Our visit was but snort, and we now made the best of our way to Hottentot's Holland. After fording the Erste Revier, we passed through the charming plantations of a farm, belonging to a Mrs. Morkel, and crossing a dreary waste, arrived about four o'clock at Mr. Alexander's own farm. I was surprised to find here a Hottentot waiting for me. Bro- 54 JOURNAL OF A ther Bonatz and the travelling party having arrived this morning at the foot of Hottentot-Holland's Kloof, spent the heat of the day at a miserable inn, intending, on my arrival, to pass over the kloof in the cool of the evening. I joined them immediately after dinner. Father Mars- veld and his wife had already set out on foot, and we follow^ed with three wagons. The pedestrians met a herd of ten or twelve baboons on the road. The coward- ly creatures betook themselves speedily to flight, and with astonishing dexerity and swiftness, scaled the steep, and to man, inaccessible cHffs, where they made a stand, till the cracks of the Hottentots' w^hips so frightened them, that they in an instant disappeared, but kept up a hideous yell for some time. This kloof is celebrated in the journals of our mis- sionaries for its difficult and steep ascent and the bad- ness of the road. My imagination therefore had pre- sented to me the picture of a formidable passage across these mountains, and I now found the accounts given by no means exaggerated. Twenty-four oxen having been sent from Gnadenthal to meet us, our complement had increased to fifty-four, and it was with difficulty, that even this number drew the loaded wagons up the rug- ged road. The lower part of the hill is richly covered with grass, flowering shrubs, and bushes, but the upper- region is a Avild, solitary, and vast assemblage of rocks, thrown together without any appearance of regular strata. After passing the summit, the descent is more gra- dual, and a fine full moon lighted us on our way to the first station, where we unyoked our oxen. We forded the Palmite river w^ithout difficulty, the water being low, and met five large wagons with fourteen oxen each, coming from the interior. After taking some refreshment and rest, we proceed- ed about midnight, and made halt again at four o'clock in the morning. Part of our cattle were not with the wagons, but driven loose as relays. Among these a wolf descended from the mountain, and was choosing his prey, when he was observed by one of the Hotten- tots, and frightened away by the cracks of the long VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 55 whip. The wolf of the Cape is a solitary, cowardly animal, when not impelled by hunger. 14th. We had now passed the great mountain called the Haue Hoek, and again halted on the Botte Revier, where we breakfasted. Most of the company then re- tired into the wagons to sleep ; but, always hoping to meet with some remarkable production of nature in this strange land, I walked along the banks of the river to- wards the hill. The country is dreary in the extreme. A solitary cottage attracted my attention, and making towards it, I overtook Sister Clemens examining the pebbles of various colours which cover part of the bank. They were fragments of sand-stone coloured by iron. We entered the cottage together, and found a friendly woman in it, with two slaves, and some black children. She informed us, that her relations lived on the other side, in two farm-houses. A slave-girl, who had been at Gnadenthal, offering to show us the way, conducted us across the river, over a rocky part of its bed, and through some vineyards and gardens, to the first house. Here an old Dutch farmer, with a gray beard of a week's growth, came out to meet us, but seemed not disposed to give us a friendly reception. At length, hearing that we came from the Cape, his curiosity to know, for what purpose a Dutch fleet had arrived in Table-Bay, made him ask us to sit down. Leaving his inhospitable dwel- ling, w^e walked on to the next farm, where our recep- tion was very different. The good-natured housewife even asked us to pluck the fruit of some mulberry-trees, standing before her door. On our return, we found the black slave-girl waiting for us at the fording-place. She presented Sister Clemens with a nosegay of wild flow- ers, and very carefully helped her across the stony bed of the river. When we again entered her mistress's hut, we were treated with some tea and goat's milk. Brother Lem- merz joining us, the family resolved to accompany us to the wagons to pay their respects to Brother Marsveld, whom they had seen at Gnadenthal. We found our venerable companion ready to receive them, and hope that they derived benefit from their meeting. After 56 JOURNAL OF A some usual inquiries, he spoke most affectionately with the woman, her slaves and children, of the necessity of conversion, and that blessedness which is to be found in communion with the Lord Jesus. His address was heard with much attention, and drew tears from their eyes. It proved to us all a most edifying morning-ser- vice. The Hottentots and their cattle not being yet ready to proceed. Brother Lemmerz accompanied me on a se- cond walk down the river, till the steepness of its banks arrested our progress. The country has a most comfort- less appearance. To the south, lies a chain of hills, among which the Tower of Babel is the highest. They are all barren, and chiefly rock. At length our phleg- matic drivers thought proper to proceed, but after three hours, on account of the heat, they halted again near a little valley, at the bottom of which flows a rivulet in the rainy season; but we now found only a few stagnant pools. Here I continued my researches, and saw the first land-tortoise, of the species called by the Dutch, Patloo- per, from their generally keeping on the path-way or carriage-road. It was about four inches square, of a greenish colour, the compartments of its shell fringed with brown and yellow. Small broken fragments of white opaque quartz are here every where mixed witfi the iron and sand-stone, gravel, and pebbles. In the evening, we halted again, and proceeding slowly, arrived towards morning at the farm of a Mr. Klemm, a German, who gave us a very friendly reception. Here the road to Gnadenthal turns to the left. 15th. As soon as the day dawned, we saw ourselves surrounded by the same dreary country as before. Very few shrubs and low bushes enclose the Serjeant's Revier in the valley, but the mountains begin to show themselves to greater advantage. To the right lies the Zwarteberg or Black-Mountain, under the south side of which the Warm-bath is situated. It is high, with many dells and gullies among its rocky steeps. Before us, the higher and very picturesque range of hills, among which the great Bavian's mountain (or Gnadenthal mountain) is the most conspicuous, afforded a noble and interesting Visit to south Africa, 57 prospect. It somewhat resembles the higher ranges of the Cuiiiberland and Westmoreland hills in the neigh- bourhood of Winandermere and Brathay vale, but its foot is not clothed with the rich verdure and beautiful plantations with which our English valleys and the as- cents of our hills abound. Uwe were impatient to reach the end of our journey, our oxen seemed more so, for on being again yoked to the wagon, the Hottentots could hardly keep them from going off in a w^ild gallop. They almost ran over the boys, who led the foremost. As the shaft-oxen cannot keep a wagon back on a steep de- scent, and a drag-chain does not always answer the pur- pose on these roufifh roads, the way of the Hottentots is, to tack down a hill. To a traveller, not accustomed to it, it appears rather dangerous to be driving among the heath, high bushes, mole-hills, and ants' nests, where in England there would be a certainty of oversetting, es* pecially in turning so suddenly as these people do. But they guide fourteen or sixteen oxen with the greatest skill ; and the length of the wagons, yielding to the un- evennesses of the road, keeps them upright, notwithstand- ing the violent jolting experienced by the travellers. The approach to Gnadenthal and the Baviaas-Kloof, which now opened to view, was to us all highly interest- ing and affecting. The road winds among low heathy hills, behind which the high mountains rise in various shapes, forming a bold outline. Within an English mile from the river Sonderend, we were met by about a hun- dred Hottentots, men, women, and children, on horse- back and on foot, who came to bid us welcome, accompa- nied by the missionaries Leitner and Beinbrech. We alighted, and the people, placing themselves in a semi- circle, sung a few verses, expressive of their joy and gra- titude to God for bringing us safely across the ocean to this land. Having remounted the wagons, we proceed- ed with them and forded the river. The water reached to the middle of the bodies of our oxen. Gnadenthal lies about an English mile from the ford, and as we drew nearer, the number of those, w^ho came to meet us, every moment increased. The entrance into the village i,s through lanes enclosed by hedge-rows, B 58 JOURNAL OF A and the dwellings of the missionaries appear under a grove planted by the first three Brethren, Marsveld, Schwinn, and Kuehnel, some time after their arrival in 1792. Little do I now wonder at the rapture with which this place is spoken of by travellers, who, after traversing a dreary, uncultivated country, without a tree to screen them from the scorching rays of the sun, find themselves transported into a situation, by nature the most barren and wild, but now rendered fruitful and inviting, by the persevering diligence and energy of a few plain, pious, sensible, and judicious men, who came hither, not seek- ing their own profit, but that of the most despised of na- tions ; and while they directed their own and their hearers' hearts to the dwellings of bliss and glory above, taught them those things, which have made even their earthly dwelling, comparatively, a kind of paradise, and changed filth and misery into comfort and peace. s The missionaries and their wives received us with the! greatest kindness and hospitality, while a fresh companyl of Hottentots, standing under some venerable and wide- spreading oaks, which overshadow the court, welcomed us by singing a hymn, and by every token of affectionate regard. We joined with our whole hearts in their thanksgivings to God our Preserver, for the numberless favours received at His hands throughout the whole of our travels by land and sea. CHAPTER IV. .Account of Gnadenthal Its church, grove of oaks, gardens, burial-ground, and Hottentots' dwellings. Bavians-Kloof. Building of a new-house. Daily employments of the mis- stonaries. Visit to the Hottentots' huts. Caffre-Kraal Wilhelmina, a Coffre woman. Stephen, killed by a horse. Account of the interior of the Bavians-Kloof Some in- ternnl arrangements of a Mission of the United Brethren. Chapel-servants. Celebration of the Lord's Supper. De- cent appearance of the congregation. Journey to, and ac- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 59 count of^Mthe Warm-baths near Caledon. Dr. Hassner. Description of Caledon. Schools at Gnadenthal. Tree serpents. Conversations with Father Marsveld. Gnadenthal lies about one hundred and twenty English miles Irotn Capetown, in a direction nearly due east. It is the principal missionary settlement of the United Bre- thren in South Africa- The Mission among the Hottentots was begun in 1737, by George Schmidt, a man of remarkable zeal and courage, who settled at this place, then known by the name of Bavians-Kloof,— The Hottentots heard the gos- pel with attention, and he soon collected a small Chris- tian congregation. He taught the youth to read Dutch, and instructed the people in several useful arts. In 1744, leaving them to the care of a pious man, he went to Europe, with a view to represent the promising state of the Mission, and to return with assistants. But, to his inexpressible grief and disappointment, he was not per- mitted by the Dutch East-India Company to resume his labours, some ignorant people having insinuated, that the propagation of Christianity among the Hottentots would injure the interests of the colony. Since that time, to the year 171>2, the Brethren did not cease to make application to the Dutch Government for leave to send missionaries to the Cape, especially as they heard, that the small Hottentot congregation had kept together for some time, in earnest expectation of the return of their beloved teacher. Brother Schmidt had left a Dutch New Testament with them, which they read together for their edification. At length, in 1792, by the mercy of God, and the kind interference of friends in the Dutch Government, leave was given to send out three missionaries, who, on their arrival, were willing, at the desire of the Gover- nor, to go first to Bavians-Kloof, and there to commence their labours, on the same spot where Brother Schmidt had resided. Instructions from the Government in Hol- land directed them to choose the place of their residence, wherever they might find it most convenient; but the 60 JOURNAL OF A circumstances of the colony at that time would not ad- mit of it. The English having made themselves masters of the colony in 1796, the Brethren were permitted to build a Church, and by the favour which the British Govern- ment has uniforraily shown to the Brethren's Missions, they now remain undisturbed and protected in their civil and religious liberty. In 1792, when the three missionaries, Henry Marsveld, Daniel Schwinn, and John Christian Kuehnel came hi- ther, they found an old woman, Helena, baptized by Bro- ther Schmidt, still ahve, who delivered to them the New Testament he had given her. But few vestiges of his dwelling remained. The place was a perfect wil- derness; at present thirteen hundred Hottentots inhabit the village. The name Gnadenthal was given to it by the Dutch Governor Jansen. We spent the first afternoon after our arrival, in walking through part of the settlement. Out of every house and hut, men, women, and children, came forth with friendly faces to meet us, and to testify their joy at our arrival. Having observed to some of the inhabi- tants, who live near the church, that the place before their houses was not kept in good order, and Brother Bonatz adding, that I was De fiTeer, of whom he had told them, that he would come from Europe to see them, and expected to find cleanliness and order established throughout the whole village, they fell to work, and in half an hour removed all the rubbish and ashes lying about their houses, promising that I should never see such disorder again. We next went into the great gar- den, in the centre of which stands the celebrated pear- tree, planted by the late venerable missionary, George Schmidt, in 1738. Having in fifty-two years, during the suspension of the mission, ^^rown to a vast size, it served the Brethren, in 1792, both for a church and school, the people and their children sitting under the shade of its wide-spreading branches. Some symptoms of decay at its top, had made pruning necessary, which has lessened its size, but it is now quite alive and sound. The burial- ground lies west of the garden, a double row of oaks VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 61 sheltering it towards the north. It is divided into four equal compartments, at present, comprehending about three hundred graves of Hottentots, in regular rows, each distinguished by a piece of wood, marked with a number, referring to the church-books, as at Groene- kioof. From hence we walked into the glen, called Bavians* Kloofi from its having formerly been the resort of a great number of baboons. But since the inhabitants of the valley have multiplied, these creatures have retired to more desolate parts of the mountains, and but seldom make their appearance, except when peaches and other garden-fruits are getting ripe. A lively brook, called the Bavians-Revier, issues from the glen, and, flowing through the village, falls into the river Sonderend, not far from the ford. hi the evening, about four hundred Hottentots attend- ed the service at the church, and after a suitable address by Brother Bonatz, joined in a hymn of praise to God, for having brought us safe to this place. When we de- livered the salutations sent by the congregations of the Brethren in Germany and England, to tlie converts from among the Hottentots, with best wishes for an increase of every blessing upon them and their nation, loud thanks- givings followed. To us new-comers, it was a truly grati- fying and affecting sight, to see so large a number of Chris- tian Hottentots assembled together, and to hear them, with heart and voice, joining in the worship of Him, with whom there is no respect of persons, but whose grace and mercy are free to all of every tribe and nation, who humbly seek his face. I was very comfortably lodged, and cannot but here acknowledge, with gratitude, the kindness of the widow of the late missionary Philip Kohrhammer. She had re- tired to a small chamber in an out-house, and insisted on my taking possession of her room in the mission-house. 16th. When 1 awoke in the morning, I could han" believe, that I was actually at Gnadenthal ; a pla( e, which for so many years has been the subject of my thoughts and my pra)'ers ; of which 1 have so long de- 62 JOURNAL OP A lighted to speak and write, and which I have so often visited in spirit. It was my most fervent wish and prayer, that the Lord would make this visit profitable to my own soul ; and, if I might be thus highly favoured, beneficial to the cause I came to serve. Immediately after breakfast, I went into the church* From without, its appearance by no means exhibits the classical taste of the architect : but it is imposing by its size, the thickness of its walls, which are of unburnt brick, plastered and yellow-washed, its arched windows, its high roof, and its gable-ends, serrated or finished in short steps, with a vane on the point of each. In short, it looks like nothing else, and its general character im- mediately pronounces it to be a place of worship. The height of its roof makes it a very conspicuous object in approaching the valley from every side, and nothing is wanting but a slender turret in the centre of the roof of about twenty or thirty feet in height, to give it all the appearance of an ancient ecclesiastical building. The doors are, in my opinion, on the wrong side. It should turn its main front to the village, whereas, now, it faces the grove and the mission-dries' dwellings. Two arched windows are placed between the doors, and one between each door and the gable-end. The front towards the vil- lage has arched windows. The arches over the doors are glazed. On entering the building, I was agreeably struck with its neatness and cleanliness. Two columns, about a yard in diameter, support the immense roof, and at first sight, surprise every beholder. That thickness was thought necessary, as they are constructed of unburnt brick. They resemble the plainest Saxon columns in some of our cathe- drals. The chalky material used here for white-wash, which comes from a place near the seacoast, called Karst Revier, has a peculiar brightness, contributing much to the cheerful look of this temple. The body of the church, with the gallery, which occupies three of its sides, will hold upwards of a thousand persons. The front of the gallery is supported by iron bars, pendant from the beams in the ceiling. The latter is not plastered, but is a neat flooring of yellovy-wood upon a joist. The plain outside of the gallery, is relieved by a very simple, but ingenious con- VISII^ TO SOUTH AFRICA. 63 trivance. Upright boards, shaped hke pilasters, are nailed upon the horizontal planks, which give the whole a finished appearance. The minister's table is, I think, inconveniently placed between the two entrances. On Sundays, it is converted into a species of pulpit, by placing a high desk upon it. The whole is covered with ^reen cloth, and elevated on a step above the floor. This step runs the whole length from door to door, un- der the seats of the missionaries. The space under the gallery at the east-end, is boarded off, as a small vestry, used only as a waiting room for the officiating minister, and to dress, previous to the holy sacrament. The church is lighted by three lamps, hanging, one in the centre, and one on each side, in a line with the columns. The congregation sit on benches, the men on the east, the women on the west-side of the building; both below, and in the gallery, a space of about two yards down the middle, forms a passage between them ; at the bottom of which stands another large table, used at the com- munion, and in the meetings for instruction and cate- chisation, when those present turn with their faces to- wards it. The belfry, which, after the arrival of the English, the missionaries were permitted to build, stands in the middle of the grove. It is an arch, supported by sub- stantial pilasters, whitened, and a pleasant object. The sound of the bell may be heard a good way down the valley. It is used for every purpose of call, to church, to school, or to meals, and consequently is sometimes rung eight or nine times in the day. From my first entrance into Gnadenthal, I determined to lose no opportunity of obtaining a complete know- ledge, both of its inward and outward state, and of con- tributing, to the best of my power, by advice and assist- ance, towards its prosperity. I therefore began imme- diately to consult the missionaries in what manner my time might be most profitably spent in this service. Be- sides many conferences with reference to the internal and spiritual concerns of the Mission, we were led to consi- der the necessity of making various improvements, as far as our slender means would permit. The missionaries. 64 JOURNAL OP A % who had accompanied me hither, found no dwellings pro- vided for theui, and were rather uncomfortably lodged in the garden-house, the gardening tools having been pieviously removed, and at the inn, a house kept by a Hottentot, and chiefly used by farmers visiting the settle- ment, to refresh themselves and their horses, for a few hours, but seldom as a night's lodging. The resident missionaries, having each only one room for himself and family, could not possibly take them in. An additional building, therefore, seemed indispensably necessary ; and we resolved to build a house, in a line with the school and smithy, which should contain three rooms and a joiner's shop. Brother Peter Leitner was intrusted with the commis- sion ; and on the Hottentot congregation being informed of the resolution, fifteen masons offered their services. A sufficient number of hands were soon engaged; some to cut reed for thatching, others to assist in making unburnt bricks ; and in a short time, the foundation was laid, according to the plan agreed on. I had here an oppor- tunity of observing a feature in the character of the Hot- tentots. It is true, that from affection and gratitude to the missionaries, they will engage to work : if, however, they have no relish for it themselves, they are apt to go about it rather sluggishly. But if the work please them, which was here the case, no European workmen exceed them in spirit and diligent attention ; only the execution must not last too long, lest, like children, they begin to get tired of it. They are flattered and pleasecl when vi- sited by their employers while at work, particularly if the latter take some share in it, and now and then lend assistance, if only by removing a stone, or helping to lift a beam. Before dinner, two English officers of dragoons arri- ved on a visit. They appeared highly pleased with the whole settlement; particularly with the neatness and regularity of the missionaries' dwellings, the convenience and cleanliness of the church, and the number of trees, both upon the premises, and dispersed throughout the village. It gave me pleasure to accompany them in their VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 65 walk, and to satisfy their inquiries after the origin and aim of the institution. In the evening-meeting, Brother Marsveld delivered a very animated discourse on the text of the day. I was surprised to find him still able to speak with so much energy and strength of recollection in spiritual things. 17th. We rose at the first sound of the bell, which rings at b^f past five. At that time the family meet in the dining-room, read the texts of Scripture appointed for the day, sing some verses generally out of hymns con- nected with their contents, or any other morning-hymn, and then take a dish of coffee ; but what they call breakfast is not ready till eight o'clock, and more like a hincheon. Very little time is spent at their meals. Be- tween twelve and one they dine ; drink tea or coffee at two ; sup between six and seven, and go to the church at eight, when the whole congregation meet for evening- worship. Every day, however, has its regular meetings for one or other division of the congregation, for instruc- tion in the Christian doctrines. The schools are held in the forenoon for the boys, and in the afternoon for the girls. After breakfast. Brother Bonatz walked with me into the village, when we entered about a dozen houses. The village consists at present of two hundred and fifty-six cottages and huts, containing twelve hundred and seven- ty-six inhabitants. The dwellings are differently con- structed. Some of the new people who are permitted to reside here on trial, or the poorest of the inhabitants, put up a hut, made with a few upright poles, between which there is a wattling of reeds or rushes, or a species of slender cane. Again, others have walls of unburnt brick, or wattling covered with a clay plastering, with square doors and windows, and a well-thatched roof. None of them are fond of too much light; and general- ly one window, or at most two, serves for the whole house, before which not unfrequcntly hangs a curtain of sheep-skin to prevent any intrusion of the sun's rays. Each house has a garden belonging to it, and the state of the garden generally betrays the disposition of the in- habitant. Some are kept neat, and produce good crops ; 66 JOURNAL OF A others, though not many, are full of weeds. The mis- sionary upon whom this branch of service devolves, after exercising due patience in admonishing and warning the possessor, may deprive him of it, and give it to another. Most of the gardens, however, look well ; and being separated from each other by low hedges or bushes, the whole valley appears well clothed with verdure. In some of the dwellings, the children of the poor, par- ticularly the little boys, go naked ; and some of the men wear only karosses and aprons, after the old Hottentot fashion. But those that have better earnings, soon pro- vide themselves with jackets and trowsers, and other ar- ticles of European dress, which they always w^ear on Sundays, clothing their children in linen or calico shirts, trowsers, or petticoats. The head-dress of the women is a handkerchief, neatly infolding their heads, above the ears, with a loop in fr ont, and looks well. On each side of the valley, the cottages are placed in rows; but the rest are irregularly distributed between them. Though at first I had joined others in regretting, that, from the beginning, no regular plan had been fol- lowed throughout, by degrees I became pleased with the romantic irregularity of the interior part of the set- tlement, when, as I walked among the hedges on a ser- pentine foot-path, I unexpectedly met w^ith a snug cot- tage under cover of quince, fig, and other fruit-trees, and an assemblage of women and children sitting at work under their shade ; then, after some friendly conversa- tion, passing on, I again surprised another family with a visit. In one of the huts, Brother Bonatz desired a poor boy, dressed only in a kaross and apron, to read some verses in the bible to me, which he did without hesitation. At thiee o'clock in the afternoon, a pretty large con- grepfation of communicants attended the confirmation of ^'^u^T^^^ woman, previous to her first participation of the Holy Communion. Father Schwinn ofliciated, and delivered an edifying discourse on the aim of that sacred ordmance. I took afterwards a walk with Brother Lemmerz, into a part of the settlement on the eminence heyond the Bavians-Revier, called the Caffre-Kraal, be- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 67 ing inhabited chiefly by Christian CaiFres. These peo- ple were admitted as inhabitants at Gnadenthal before the late disturbances; and when all the Caifres were banished the colony, and obliged to retreat across the Great Fish River, those belonging to the Brethren's Mission obtained leave from Government to remain here, and have always conducted themselves in the most peaceable and orderly manner. Some of them are dis- tinguished by their exemplary conduct. Thej^ differ in features and in habits from the Hottentots ; but here, associate with them in perfect amity. From thence we went into a kloof or valley called Siebenfonteyn, at the bottom of the ascent towards the great mountain, where we found a very good house and garden. The wife of the possessor, with whom we had some conversation, seemed a pious, sensible woman. To-day I heard with much pleasure a party of men and women, employed as day-labourers in the missiona- ries' garden, both before and after their meal, which they enjojed in the shade of the grove, most melodious- ly singing a verse, by way of a grace. One of the women sung a correct second, and very sw^eetly performed that figure in music, called Retardation ; 'to i pp^ : from which I judge, that dissonants are not the invention of art, but the production of nature. Nothing would be more eas3% than to form a chorus of the most delightful voices, in four parts, from among this smooth-throated nation. 18th. After breakfast, Sister Bonatz brought a Chris- tian Caffre w^oman into my room, who had expressed a particular wish to speak to me. I desired her to sit down, which, after some hesitation, she did on a low stool, as is their custom, and Sister Bonatz being inter- preter, said, that she came to beg, that we would send teachers to her nation, who were in the dark, ignorant of God, and of that happiness in Jesus, which sh?, though so unworthy, experienced, and consequently given up as a prey to every kind of sin and evil. On this subject she delivered herself with a kind of fervour and elo- quence, which would have done credit to the most ci- g8 JOURNAL OF A vilized orator. She spoke with great humility of the mercy shown to herself, of the privilege she enjoyed of living among a people of God, of her ardent desire, that her own brother and sister, and all her country people, should experience the same ; and entreated, that they might not be forgotten. She was afraid, ^^ that perhaps the teachers might leave off praying for them." She had, however, found a text of Scripture which revived her hopes : " I will bring the blind by a way that they knew not." Is. xlii. 16. She would therefore yet hope " that our Saviour would send to them His word, and call them to partake of His salvation." I answered, that I could assure her, that her countrymen were not forgot- ten by the Fathers and Brethren in Europe, and that I had been particularly commissioned to make inquiry about the practicability of establishing a Mission in her country ; but having spoken with the Governor and other persons in office, I was given to understand, that just now it would not be safe, while the war lasted. She replied, that the boors Avere in fault, but she hoped that the war would soon cease, and then that something would be done for them. She thought " that the best way to begin a Mission would be, to send one or more CafFres to king T Geika, and inform him of the aim of such an institution, and though she believed, that just now the Caffres might kill the boors for robbing them of their land, they would protect missionaries coming from Gnadenthal ; that a settlement might be formed, hy the CafFre part of this congregation becoming the first set- tlers in any part of their country, suitable for the pur- pose, and that, if a mission were begun, and succeeded, there would be an end of all CafFre wars with the En- glish." The name of tnis woman is Wilhelmina, a com- municant, and in her person, manner, and neatness of apparel, superior to any of the Hottentots. 1 was much pleased and edified by her conversation. It is the common custom, in this warm climate, for every person who can afford the time, to take a nap after dinner, and I was advised to do the same, under an idea, that without it there is too much waste of strength. To-day, I walked after dinner into the great VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 69 garden, and sat down under George Schmidt's pear tree, when 1 began to feel drowsy. I retired therefore into my room, to try the effect of the advice given me, but when called to coffee, felt so much stupified by the at- tempt, that I ever after resisted it, and generally walked about the premises after dinner, or employed the time in drawing, by the help of the camera obscura, nor did I ever feel inconvenience from wakefulness. I walked this afternoon with Brother Lemmerz to the new vine- yard in KornlandVKloof, which promises to yield an abundant crop. By the way we called on several Hot- tentots in their houses. 19th. The greater part of this day was spent in con- ference on different subjects. During an early walk, I was much dehghted by watching some thin and almost transparent summer clouds skimming along the upper region of rocks on the great mountain. The shades and tints of the lower cliffs were charmingly variegated as illumined by the rays of a bright morning sun. In the afternoon, all the new-comers went with Brother Bonatz on a visit to the Hottentots and Caffres beyond the Ba- vians-Revier. 20th. After dinner, word was brought that a commu- nicant, Stephen, had received so severe a blow in* his stomach by the kick of a horse, that his life was in dan- ger. I accompanied Brother Bonatz to see him. We found him lying on his breast, under a hedge, with four or five women sitting near him. Some men had con- veyed him thus far on a bedstead, when, not able to bear the motion, he begged to be put down. We en- couraged him to endeavour to rise ; and, after he had taken some medicine, four stout men carried him to hl^ dwelling, but the door being too narrow to admit the bedstead, they conveyed him into the stable. He w^as in great agony, and his case truly pitiable. His wife had just been deUvered. They were extremely poor, and had four young children alive ; one was lately drowned. They spoke of their complicated distress with resigna- tion to the will of God, and poor Stephen expressed his conviction, that he should depart out of this world, pray- ing that the Lord would have mercy on him and take 70 JOURNAL OF A him to himself. On our return, something was sent for the reHef of the patient. In the evening, I walked with Brother Lemmerz into the kloof. We worked our way through the bushes to- wards a rocky eminence, from which I hoped to gain a view of the division made in the upper part of the kloof by four round hillocks, but was disappointed. A num- ber of children of both sexes were employed in getting firewood, all with naked feet, and not half dressed, fear- ing neither thorns, sharp stones, nor serpents, which are not unfrequently met with. The stone throughout the kloof is sand-stone, generally of a reddish hue, intersect- ed by veins of white quartz, here and there imperfectly chrystallized. The rocks appear as if they were put to- gether of fragments of various sizes. Some of their ledges are covered with beautiful shrubs, and the par- tridge aloe grows every where in great perfection. This evening, a chest with Dutch bibles and Testa- ments, a present from the British and Foreign Bible So- ciety, arrived, to the great joy of the missionaries and the Hottentots. In the evening-service, I was more than ever charmed with the voices of the congre- gation. Before I proceed in my narrative, it may be proper to give an account of sonic of the internal regulations of the missionary settlements of the United Brethren, which are the same in every country. The gospel is preached to all heathen, to whom the missionaries can oain access^ and everyone invited to be reconciled to God, through the atonement made by Jesus Christ. Besides the pub- lie testimony of the gospel, the missionaries are diligent- ly employed in visiting and conversing with the heathen in their dwellings. If any come to the missionaries for further instruction, giving in their names, they are called JS'ew People^ and special attention is paid to them. If their subsequent conduct proves their sincerity, and they desire to be initiated into the Christian Church by Holy Baptism, they are considered as Candidates for Baptism,^ and, after previous instruction, and a convenient time of probation, baptized. In admitting them to the Holy Communion, they are first permitted to be once VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 71 present as spectators, and called Candidates for the Com- mnmon; and aCter some time, become Communicants^ Jirach of these divisions have separate meetings, in which thej are instructed in all things relating to a godly life and walk. Separate meetings are also held with other divisions of the congregation; with the children, the sin^^le men, the single women, the married people, the widowers, and widows, in which the admonitions and precepts given in the Holy Scriptures for each state of Iile are inculcated. Every member of the congregation IS expected to come, at stated seasons, to converse with the missionaries; the men with a missionary, and the women with his wife, by which a more perfect know- ledge of the individuals is gained, and an opportunity aftorded to each, to request and receive special advice. t rom among the most approved of the people of both sexes, Assistants are appointed in large congregations, who visit the sick, make reports to the missionaries, and help to maintain order. Others are employed as Chapel- servants, who take their turn in attendance. 21st. In the afternoon, the chapel-servants had a meet- ing, as usual in the beginning of the year, the aim of which IS, to encourage them to diligence and faithfulness in their service. The conversation was free, unaffected, and edifying. Many of them, both men and women, join- ed in It with great modesty. Father Marsveld, after a short address, asked some questions concerning their ser- vice, and their views in accepting of the appointment. Iheir answers surprised and delighted me. They pro- ved, that these people, latelv so ignorant, had, by the in- struction, not of men, but of the Spirit of God, conceived views and ideas of the service in the house of God more just, than many who think themselves far more enlitrht- ened. Their spirit seemed truly that of David, who would rather be a door-keeper in the house of the Lord* than dwell in the tents of the wicked. One said, that he felt so unworthy of being thus employed, that when he rose to snuff the candles, he almost trembled, lest he should do any thing to disturb the congregation or the teacher. Tlie conversation turned also upon brotherly love, and a willingness to help each other in trouble or 72 JtOURNAL OF A sickness, which is not natural to the Hottentots. This gave occasion to many practical observations, and my quoting the simile used in Scripture, of the intimate con- nexion of the members of the body, that if one suffer the whole is affected, with explanations given by some of the missionaries present, seemed to make a deep impression upon them. They with one consent expressed their thankfulness for having received more teachers, and for my visit. Father Marsveld's manner in leading the conversation, was that of a sensible parent addressing sensible children. To me, this opportunity of noticing the disposition of the Hottentots, when converted to Christ, was singularly agreeable and important. Short- ly after, they all came into my room, to pay me a special visit, and once more to bid me welcome. The camera obscura happening to stand in a position, which showed the church and the grove, with people passing and re- passing, exceedingly amused and astonished them. A messenger now announced that Stephen was in a dying state, and Brother Bonatz immediately went to see him once more, but on arriving at the house, found that he had just breathed his last. The case of this poor man and his family distressed and disturbed my mind. Both he and his wife were worthy members of the congrega- tion, and now, in the midst of family troubles, they are separated, when the assistance of the husband seemed most needed. As Sunday is generally a day, on which strangers at- tend divine worship, or visit the settlement, the Holy Communion is always held in the evening, when there are no intruders. At half past seven the communicant congregation assembled in the church. What shall I say of this solemnity ! I wished all my friends, who take fehare in the success of the Missions of our Church, to be present. What a miracle is here wrought by the power of God, through the simple preaching of the word of the Cross ! What must the feelings of those men be, who first were employed in the renewal of this Mis- sion, no longer ago than in 1792, when they behold the effects of their labours. I made this remark to Father Marsveld. His answer was — " It is so clearly the work VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 73 of God, and not of man, that we almost forget that we have at all been employed in it. When we came hither^ our utmost hope was, that we might perhaps, in a course of years, see forty or fifty Hottentots converted and formed into a Christian congregation ; and as we were travelling towards this place, we prayed to our Saviour, that He might bless and support us ; and if He granted us the favour to see but one soul converted in truth, we should think ourselves well rewarded. And now, when we behold what He has done, we are indeed overwhelmed with gratitude and amazement : but not unto us, not un- to us^ to His name alone be all the glory and all the praise." This was likewise the constant expression of Father Schwinn : he once said to me of his own accord, " We are unprofitable servants and sinful men ; we have done many things amiss, and have nothing to boast of, but mercy. The Lord forgave us our sins, healed every breach, and helped us to serve Him with gladness from day to day, while we beheld the effects produced by the power of His Word and Spirit.'' That venerable apostle, George Schmidt, and Father Kuehnel, are in heaven, rejoicing before the throne of the Lamb over the success of the faithful labours of God's servants on earth. But to return to the celebration of the Lord's supper. The devotion and fervour, with which the Hottentots present attended to the service, and received the sacred elements, were peculiarly striking to my mind. Their singing was melodious, but rather too soft. I was told in apology, that not all of them were acquainted with the hymns sung by the minister who officiated. A Post- Communion followed, for such as had been necessarily prevented from attending before, by family duties, watching, or other hinderances. I retired to my room, ra- ther overwhelmed by the feelings and reflections of my mind, and with a heart filled with thankfulness to God our Saviour for such a manifestation of bis power and grace as I had just witnessed. It may appear like en- thusiasm, but I asked no longer, " Am I really and bo- dily in Gnadenthal?" but, " Am I yet on earth ?" 22d. Having promised Brother Leitner, that I would IG fj^ JOURNAL OF A accompany him to-day on a visit to his wife, who had for some weeks been confined by illness at the warm-bath near Caledon, we prepared to leave Gnadenthal imme- diately after the morning-service, which on the day fol- lowing the celebration of the Holy Communion, is a Li- turgy for thanksgiving. 1 was astonished to see the church well filled, and all the communicants yet in their Sunday's dress, neat and clean. U some of my Cape friends, who often described the Hottentots as an incor- rigible set of lazy, dirty, and ragged creatures, were to see this congregation on such occasions, they would at least say, that here^ facts do not prove their assertion true. At the Communion, most of the women are dress- ed in clean white gowns. Both men and women save their best apparel, that they may appear decent at church on Sundays, but there is no affectation of finery among them. We set off in our own wagon and ten oxen, for the warm-bath. Brother Thomsen accompanying us. The weather was fine, and the haze hovering about the mid- dle region of the mowntains, only served to make their outUne and the distances of different ridges more dis- tinct. I have nowhere seen any chain of mountains of a more picturesque and imposing appearance. Some of the low heathy hills, forming the valley in which Gna- denthal lies, have fanciful shapes, and rocky ledges about half way up the ascent. At Klemm's farm, we made but a short stay, and proceeded on the Cape road for about eight English miles, w^hen we turned to the left, towards the Zwarteberg. This is a bleak mountain of moderate height, furrowed, as it were, with rocky kloofs on the north side. The chief amusement on these journeys is the contemplation of the singular ranges of bills, which form the horizon. On doubling the west corner of the Zwarteberg, a high mountain, called the Tower of Babel, presents itself with much grandeur. ^ The town or village of Caledon is but as a sapling rising out of the ground, the houses are neat, and the church in form of a cross, without a steeple. The cir- cumjacent country is naked, and a barren waste, except- ing a few green spots of cultivation in the vale. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 75 The warm-baths are about one English mile beyond the town, under the south declivity of the mountain. We were welcomed by our friends and Dr. Hassner, the proprietor of the baths, with great cordiality ; the latter conducted me to his house, where I met with a very hospitable reception, and excellent accommodations. Some friends came and spent an hour with us. 23d. I rose early, intending to try the effect of the warm bath, and found it the best possible remedy both against the rheumatism, and the prickly heat, which still haunted me. After breakfast with Brother Leitner's family. Dr. Hassner took me in his curricle to Caledon, where we waited upon the deputy-Ianddrost, Mr. Von Frauenfelder. Our friends followed us on foot. It proved a very pleasant visit; the landdrost showed us the church, and the prison, here called the Tronk. Hav- ing also paid our respects to the minister, the Rev. Mr. Voss, we returned to dinner. The efficacy of the warm-baths is universally ac- knowledged by all who have used them, both inhabitants of this colony, and invalids from the East Indies. After dinner, we visited the hot springs. They are situated in an eminence behind the new bathing-house. The principal one proceeds from an opening, about a foot and a half wide, the depth of which is not yet ascertain- ed. The temperature of the water is 1 1 8^^ Fahrenheit at the spring, and 112 in the bath. Between two hot springs a cold spring rises, which has water of a dif- ferent quality, and comparatively extremely cold. The soil on this part of the mountain is a black mould, as fine as powder. Shrubs and plants cover it and prevent its be- ing carried off by the wind. It is but shallow, and lies upon a crust of iron-stone of singular texture, porous, bulbous, and its fissures in some parts filled with a glis- tening substance. Most of it appears to have passed through fire ; here and there showing decomposition, and yielding a bright yellow ochre. I have called it a crust of iron-stone, because it sounds hollow under one's feet, as though it covered a vacuum, which, however, is not Dr. Hassner's opinion, but rather, that it is elastic. In one place, ^n opening or chasm appears, which is 76 lOURNAL OF A said to have been occasioned by an eruption. On our return, we visited the old baths, higher up the hill. In the evening, Dr. Hassner gave me a detailed de- scription of the loss of the Arntston East Indiaman off Cape Aguillas, which happened about the end of May 1815. The catastrophe was terrific. About three hun- dred souls perished, among whom w^ere Lord and Lady Molesworth, with other persons of high character. I could hardly fall asleep, so deep was the impression made upon my mind by the Doctor's eloquent account of the horror of this scene. 24th. After breakfast, Brother Thomsen accompanied me to some eminences in front of the buildings, of which, and of the village, I made a sketch. On my return, we were visited by Mr. Hoetz, a merchant, and by the land- drost of Caledon. Sister Leitner being rather better in health, the company spent the day very pleasantly to- gether. After tea, I set out with Brother Thomsen to examine the rocky summit of the Zwarteberg. Beyond the iron-stone region, quartz is found in abundance; in- numerable flowers and shrubs of great variety grow among the rocks, and a botanist finds here a rich har- vest. The mountain is very properly called the Zwarteberg, or the Black Mountain^ for it is an assemblage of black, barren, rocky hillocks, rising one above the other in strange confusion, inhabited only by jackals, w^olves, ty- gers, and serpents. We were insensibly led from one eminence to the other, enjoying the prospect on all sides, and amusing ourselves with the contemplation of the plants, here and there luxuriantly growing between the stones, on a very thin covering of earth, when the setting sun reminded us of the necessity of returning by the shortest path. This we missed, and got among broken rocks, where almost every step was attended with danger. We sup- ped all together at the baths, and I found the conversa- tion of my worthy host so interesting, that I did not re- tire to rest till after midnight. 25th. About half past six, we took leave of our old and new acquamtances, with prayers for the speedy re- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 77 covery of our "worthy friend, Sister Leitner, and took the road along the south side of the Zwarteberg. The country is mostly barren, without a tree or bush to clothe its brown surface. Not a green spot is seen, excepting where, in the bed of some torrent, descending from the precipitous declivity of the mountain, a little moisture has been left behind. The Zwarteberg stretches about ten English miles, in a south-west and north-east direc- tion, and is perfectly barren. We passed through a farm, where, by an act of jus- tice, formerly unknown in this country, the possessors have been taught, that English law admits of no respect of persons; but when administered according to the con- stitution, provides security and justice for the lowest, as well as the highest ranks of society. The wife, with the assistance of her daughter, a girl of about eighteen years of age, had most unmercifully beaten a female slave in iheir service, though with child, wounding her from head to foot. Complaints of this act of barbarity having been brought before the Judge, at the circuit, lately establish- ed in this colony, and the cruel perpetrators being found guilty, they were condemned to pay three hundred rix- dollars fine, two thousand rix-dollars costs of suit, and that their slaves should all be sold, but not to one of their family. The farm appeared in a very dilapidated state. Some Hottentot women belonging to Gnadenthal, be-* ing at work in the field, ran towards our wagon, ex- pressed in the most friendly manner their joy at seeing their teachers, and delivered some little commissions to our driver and leader for their friends and families. I was vastly pleased with this rencontre. We halted at a farm, where the family gave us a friendly reception. I had been all day troubled with violent headach, but was cured by some hot tea, which, though proceeding from a dirty pewter urn, with sops of spider's legs, and frag- ments of the wings and bodies of flies, gave me almost immediate relief : whether owing to the decoction of these particles of insects, to the heat of the water, or any other cause, I waited not to examine, but felt thankful for my recovery. 78 JOURNAL OF A The road now turned towards the Gnadenthal moun- tains, which, from some eminences, had a truly magnifi- cent appearance. We visited a farmer of the name of Kuntz, whom we found in an aihng state : he however came down and conversed with us. His farm Ues along a pretty valley, with an overflowing stream, and a con- siderable tract of land under cultivation : the house is large and roomy, and some of the ceilings are made of a fine yellow or olive-coloured wood from Ceylon. We now moved slowly towards our home, on bad roads and with weary cattle, but delighted with the prospect ; and about eight o'clock arrived in the shady recesses of Gnadenthal, the very sight of which affords comfort in this hot and sultry region. 26th. After breakfast. Brother Clemens accompanied me into the garden, the burial-ground, and other pre- mises, when I mentioned to him some ideas of improve- ment, by which regularity and beauty might, in my opi- nion, be much furthered, at a small expense. But I will candidly confess, that by the time I had been a few months in Africa, and become better acquainted with the difiiculties presenting themselves on all sides, in promot- ing improvement, both moral and physical, I was rather disposed to stand astonished at what had been done, in so short a time, by our Brethren in this place, and at Groenekloof, than to expect immediate attention to my suggestions. Those venerable men, Marsveld and Schwinn, heard my remarks with great patience and forbearance, as they were never made, but under a con- viction of my being a novice, and with all due and un- feigned deference to their better judgment. I also saw an improvement, which pleased me. We visited the people who were cutting and drying peaches in the mis- sionaries' garden. Formerly the fruit was laid upon a platform constructed of broom, fastened to, and support- ed by uprights fixed in the ground. If it rained long, the peaches were spoiled, as they could not be removed, and the platform itself suffered great damage during the wet season. The Bi ethren were now gradually introduc- ing moveable racks or platforms, made of bamboo and reed wattling, and placed loose on a frame, which could VISIT To SOUTH AFRICA, 79 be easily taken off, and with the load of fruit carried in- to a dry shed, and when not in use stowed away in a small compass. In the forenoon, we met in conference. Thirty-four persons were appointed for advance in church-privileges, from a list of about fifty under consideration. After dinner, they were called by the chapel-servants into the dining-room ; first, those to be admitted among the can- didates for baptism ; then, the persons to be baptized ; and lastly, some, who, having been baptized as children, were to be received into the congregation. After being informed of the advance they were to make, they were earnestly exhorted to walk worthy of the grace conferred upon them. The answers given to the very solemn questions put to them, were generally clear, and evi- dently proceeding from their hearts. I could not but admire the manner in which this service was conducted by the presiding missionary. To-day I attended a meeting of the men for instruc- tion in the Christian doctrines, in which Father Schwinn, besides asking some questions in the way of chatechisa- tion, delivered a very animated discourse. From the church I proceeded to the school, vi^here Brother Lem- merz was introduced to the boys as their future school- master. They took leave of his predecessor, Brother Leitner, and promised obedience, by giving their hands. A class was then called, that I might hear them spell and read, which they did very well, considering that the va- jcation, during the harvest, always brings with it some forgetfulness of what has been learned. Some of the poor boys come to school in their karosses and aprons, others are dressed in linen jackets and trowsers. The school-house is a very convenient, roomy building. As I had brought with me a present of bibles and testaments from the British and Foreign Bible Society, I took this opportunity of speaking to the children, and observing, that I should be glad, on my return, to be able to inform that venerable society that they were well bestowed. In the evening, the Liturgy, or hymn, treating of our Saviour's sufferings, appointed in our Church for Friday evening's worship, was sung in a spirit of humble thank- 80 JOURNAL OF A fulness for our redemption. This is the grand subject, which has proved the means of conversion, civilization, and happiness in time and eternity, to believers of every tribe and nation. May it be and remain our constant theme, in spite of either a deriding world, or the vain conceits and specious arguments of such as pretend to superior insight, and think that they have found something higher and more effectual. I have seen to-day much of the course of a missionary station, where there are many descriptions of persons to attend to ; and I am convinced, that if a missionary does his duty, there is occasion for the exertion of all the energies of mind and body. May we always be favoured with missionaries, who can say with truth: " The Love of Christ constraineth us.^^ 27th. I spent the forenoon at my desk. After dinner, while others were taking their African nap, which does not yet agree with me, I took a walk about the premises, and ascended the hill to the right, coming out of the kloof My intention was to seek a spot, from whence a view might be taken of the missionaries' premises, show- ing the church;, a part of every house, and the garden. On my return, finding the church-door open, I entered and climbed into the roof Here I found two Hottentots at work, who gave me some information about the build- ing. The timber used was allowed by Government to be cut in the forest of Soete Melks Valley. After coffee, the Brethren Clemens and Lemmerz went with me into the kloof On the road we were called to by some Hot- tentots, who had just caught a tree-serpent. It was a beautiful creature, about four ket long, mottled gray on the back, with a gold-yellow belly. These reptiles are said to be very venomous, and haunt trees and bushes. After a most pleasant walk, we returned, admiring the view of Gnadenthal church, as it presents itself at the opening of the kloof The rocks on both sides of the glen are of a deep brown-red colour. 28th. This was a day of peculiar happiness and com- fort to many in this congregation, both to those who were admitted to church privileges, as above stated, and to all who took share in the prosperity of this work of VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 8J God. After an anisiated sermon by Father Marsvel(L two children were baptized. I was again, as at Gro^- nekloof, greatly edified by the questions put to, and an- swers given by the parents, previous to the solemn transaction. To see the widow of poor Stephen, lately killed by the kick of a horse, now appearing with her infant at the baptismal font, was a very affecting sight, and she was particularly recommended to the prayers and kind notice of the congregation. At three in the af- ternoon w-as the baptism of nine men, and six women. All ordained ministers were engaged in this service. I baptized three, one of whom was a CafFre, Klaas Stoffel. Brother Bonatz addressed both the large audiencpj which filled the church, and the candidates about to be baptized, in a manner so as to raise great attention. In the evening, we met again for the reception of three children of Christian parents into the congregation. Truly the presence of Him, who has promised to be with His people alway, even to the end of the world, was felt by most, if not all, who attended on these so- lemnities. 29th. I was present at the morning-meeting for Chris- tian instruction, and afterwards, at the girls' school : one hundred and eleven children had assembled. They took leave of Father Marsveld, who had hitherto been their teacher, and received Brother Leitner in the man- ner before described. It was affecting to see many of them clinging about Father Marsveld, and with many tears shaking hands, to thank him for his kindness to- wards them, as their teacher. Some of the bigger girls seemed quite disconsolate, and cried for a long time without ceasing. About a hundred and thirty girls be- long to the school. To-day, Brother Bonatz introduced to me a Hottentot captain, who lives at Gnadenthal. He did not look much like a man in office, wore a very shabby jacket, and had neither shoes nor stockings. Brother Bonatz informed me, that he was very poor; and having brought a parcel of old clothes with me, to distribute among th,e poor, I presented him with a scarlet jacket, given me by a Bristol volunteer, which I happenec;! to 1 7 82 JOURNAL OB' A have among my store. I asked him to try it on, and as it fitted him well, told him that it was his, and suited him as an English captain. He could hardly believe, that he vras really put in possession of such a treasure, and strutted off with it, to the admiration of many pas- sengers on the road, who stood in surprise at the con- trast between the upper part of his attire, and the state of his legs and feet. 30th. Eight new-people obtained leave to live here, on trial. 1 spent most of the day at home. 31st. At the meeting for the children, about three hundred attended. After dinner, two Hottentots called upon me, by appointment, with Avhom Brother Bonatz and I wished to confer, relative to the best situation in the interior for a third mFssionary settlement. They proposed an examination of the banks of the Chamtoos- Revier in Uitenhagen district, where they mentioned a place formerly occupied by Hottentots, and abounding with wood and water. It was also their opinion, that several suitable situations might be found on that river, and many Hottentots from Gnadenthal would be willing to remove into that part of the colony. We determined to visit some of the most intelligent farmers in the neio-h- bouring country, and consult them about the best means^ of making a journey into the interior. Being desirous of penetrating as far as possible into the kloof, the missionaries Thomsen and Lemmerz accom- panied me into it, this afternoon, and as we were new- comers, we enjoyed all the pleasure expectation affords, in making a journey of discovery. We arrived at the spot where the kloof is divided by three round^topped hillocks, which are partially covered with brush-wood. The brown-red rocks, on all sides, have a singular ap- pearance, their layers inclining chiefly from east to west. We turned to the right along the brook, which flow? under hanging rocks, shelving forwards to a considera- ble height, and scrambled along, through thick bushes, and over huge masses of stone, till we were stopped by the quantity of water, rushing in numberless cascades between them, in all directions. Here are some very picturesque groups of brush-wood, rock, and water. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 83 which would furnish interesting subjects for the pencil of an able artist. In the evening, I spent a very agreeable hour with Father Marsvclcl, whose instructive conversation I de- light to enjoy. H^ gave me a detailed account of the troubles which he and his two worthy associates expe- rienced, in the beginning of their labours in this desert^ till God sent the English to put a stop to the opposition of evil-disposed people. These misguided men went so far as to hand about a paper, to be signed by the neigh- bouring farmers, by which they should bind themselves not to supply the missionaries with the necessaries of life, which, at that early period, they could not procure otherwise than by^purchase. Some refused to sign the paper, and others were raised up by God to become their friends. He will reward them for the cup of cold water given to His servants in that day. I spent the 1st of February chiefly at home. In the afternoon, while I was drawing by the help of the camera obscura, several Hottentots gathered round me, whom I gratified by letting one after the other peep into it. One called to another passing by, " Come and peep, Susan, Mynheer has brought the churchy and all the trees, into his box*" CHAPTER jV. Visit to Messieurs Tennis^ senior and junior^ and to Mr. Linde. Account of a Funeral. Consultations regarding a reconnoitring journey into the interior. A Hottentot garden described. Journey to Groenekloof. JYight spent in the Wilderness. Arrival at Groenekloof. Excessive heat. Storm of Thunder. Birthday. Transactions at Capetown. Mr. Melville. Visit to Kerstenbosch^ and to JVewlands. Return to Gnadenthal. Uncertain de- pendence on African hospitality. Fires on the Mountains. JYursery of young trees. Gravestones. Singing of the Hottentot women. Hottentot Clans. Visit the boundary of the Settlement. Brother Bonatz'^s farewell. Instance 84 JOURNAL Oii' A of good discipline. Arrival of Brother Schnitt and Mr. Melville^ at Gnadenthal. Preparations for the recon- noitring journey. February 2nd. Brother Bonatz, Brother Clemens and his wife, Sister Kohrhammer, and I, set out on a visit to some farmers, who, being acquainted with the interior, could give information respecting the Chamtoos-Revier, and other situations proposed to me as suitable for a third settlement. Our equipage was a covered wagon, drawn by ten hired oxen, with a driver and leader. We Eassed the Bavians-Revier, and turned up the heathy ills, behind the Caffre-Kraal, towards Stoflfels-KraaL Brother Bonatz walked with me to an eminence, from which I could overlook a great part of the boundary of Gnadenthal. There is indeed, to appearance, a suffi- cient quantity of land, for every purpose of culture and pasturage ; but of four thousand acres, granted to the Brethren by Government, the greater part is barren, and incapable of cultivation ; or at least of that descrip- tion, that the expense required to make it fit for use, would be much greater than we could well afford. Stof- fels-Kraal is an ancient Hottentot station, but now for- saken. There is, however, some good land along a small gully, now dry. From hence we went to the farm of a widow, Mrs. Giebeler, whom we did not find at home. It is, like most farms in this neighbourhood, an assemblage of mean houses and sheds, but the planta- tions are fine, consisting of large peach orchards, and gardens, surrounded by avenues of firs, and of groves of various kinds of trees. This place likewise belonged to a tribe of Hottentots, but was taken from them, by a species of robbery, very common in former days, when for a few bottles of brandy, or some other trifling con- sideration, the best lands in their possession were pur- chased of them ; and the Hottentot captain, perhaps in a state of intoxication, led to some magistrate, by whom the shameful bargain was ratified. The poor fellow did not come to his senses till it was too late, when he per- ceived with dismay how he had suffered himself and his people to be duped. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 83 Our road now led through a barre'n country. In about three hours we arrived at the Sieckenhaus, the residence of Mjnheer Teunis senior. It was interesting to me to see and converse with this man, who, at the commencement of the mission, rendered essential ser- vices to the three Brethren, till their unexpected success in collecting a congregation of Hottentots made him, for a season, a dangerous enemy. He is however again considered as a friend, and received us with cordiahty. He seemed pleased, when I informed him, that ever since the renovation of the mission, I had been well ac- quainted with his name and services, when, by orders from the Dutch Governor, in 1792, he first brought the missionaries to Bavians-Kloof, and lodged them in his house, at Soete Melks Valley, till they could put up a cottage for themselves. Though upwards of seventy years old, he is full of activity, of a very intelligent mind, and seemed interested in all that passes here and in Europe. On consulting him about the best place for a third set- tlement, he recommended an examination of the banks, both of the Chamtoos, and Kierbooms Reviers, and named several situations, the advantages of which he enumerated. Wo trees or hedges adorn his pre,mises, except four small oaks behind, and two Chinese rose-trees before the house. The river Sonderend flows in the vale, but its waters, in this dry season, are hid from view by large shrubs, brush-wood, broom, and reed-grass, growing in its very bed. The view of the mountains is grand, and makes amends for the melancholy appearance of the plain. After dinner, we set out for Mr. Linde's farm, lying like- wise on the Sonderend. A sudden change of weather had taken place. Clouds began first to hover above, then to obscure, the highest peaks, and gradually to en- velop the whole range of mountains. We hastened therefore to get under shelter, and after a short visit to Mr. Teunis's son Jan, reached Mr. Linde's house, just before the rain came on. It lies not far from the river Sonderend, which, in mobt places, ip hid by bushes. I 86 JOURNAL OF A had expected to iind a man, formerly in the employ of Government, as a commander of Hottentots in the Caf- fre war, a Veldcornet, and justly esteemed as a truly respectable character throughout the country, inhabit- ing a well-built mansion, and I was preparing a hand- some apology, for not appearing in full dress, till I saw his miserable cottage and its homely furniture. But Afri- can and English ideas, of the necessity of suiting your appearance to your rank, widely differ, and a man of consequence is here not less respected for the shabbi- ness of his attire, or the wretched and ruinous state of his house and premises. Brother Bonatz was highly diverted at my disappoint- ment, especially when, Mr. Linde not having returned from his fields, our reception seemed rather dry. As -soon, how^ever^ as he entered, though clad in an old jacket and trowsers, and barefoot, the ease and urbani- ty of his manners, and the kindness with which he press- ed us to spend the night at his house, showed him in his true character, as a well-bred, intelligent >gentleman. He had already one guest, and a farmer from the south arriving^ he gave him also a friendly invitation, though the size of the cottage did not seem to furnish accommo- dations for so many. Some black coffee without milk, as is here the fashion, was handed round, and we soon entered into conversation respecting the aim of our visit. Mr. Linde seemed exactly to coincide in opinion with Mr. Tennis, as to the country on the Chamtoos-Revier, but did not advise us to attempt a settlement on the Kierbooms-Revier. He was not well disposed towards the Caffres, but described them as a people without faith, to whom the British Government showed undeserved lenity. The rain ceasing for sometime, after sunset, I walked with Brother Clemens to the river, and found the rocky banks to consist of the same ferruginous sand-stone, which abounds every where. Here and there, it seemed to rest on a bed of a species of slate or Thonschiefer, of a blue-gray colour. At supper, no beverage of any kind was on the table, VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 87 and our host informed us, that he never drank either beer, wine, or spirits, but only water. I therefore called for water, when the slave-girl in waiting brought me a slop-basin full, no glass being used in this house. The supper was abundant, and well dressed. The conver- sation turned upon some of the beasts of prey haunting this country, when the Southland farmer gave an ac- count of the depredations lately committed by wolves and wild-dogs, in his neighbourhood, the latter being numerous between the mountains and the coast. Ty- gers are not often seen; they skulk about the cattle- kraals, and in the woods, but wolves roam singly, all over the downy or heathy country. The wild-d'ogs go in packs, are very bold and mischievous, and will attack oxen, horses and sheep, in spite of watchmen and dogs. Both they and the wolves attack always either from be- hind, or in flank, never in front, as a tyger does. Ser- pents are more dangerous to man. Mr. Linde related, that a wood-keeper he employed in the kloofs, had late- ly lost his life by the bite of a Berg-adder. He died be- fore notice could reach his master, and assistance be sent, which was in about three hours. Not long since, one of his oxen was bitten, on the road, by a Puff-adder, and died the same night. The bite of the Nachtschlange,. or night-serpent, is said by the Hottentot poison-doctors to be incurable. It is a beautiful creature, marked with dark blue or black, vermillion and yellow rings, follow- ing each other from head to tail. Some time after supper, the ladies retired, but Brother Bonatz and I received still much entertainment and infor- mation from our host and his guests, who were sensible, pleasant companions, till at length we requested to be shown into our bed-room. In passing through an ante- chamber, we found a Dutch folio bible, and a testament in octavo, lying on the wnndt)w-seat. Both had been used, the latter some time ago, for it had lain so long with the leaves upon the boards, that the opened pages had assumed the colour of the wood. As for the bible- one use of long prefaces, introductory exhortations, and other prolegomena, with which these ancient editions abound, was here rendered manifest, for thev had saved 88 JOURNAL OF A the text of the Scriptures itseh", as some of the family had torn out the greater part both of the first and last leaves, and had not yet reached either Genesis or the Revela- tions, the latter beuig defended by a translation of Jose- Ehus's account of the destruction of Jerusalem. Thus y a timely remonstrance, I hope the bible itself has been saved. It was furnished with very good prints, in the old Dutch style of engraving. On entering the bed-room, how great was my astonish- ment, now to discover, how our hospitable landlord had provided for so many guests ! We found Brother Clem- ens and his wife, lying in one, Sister Kohrhammer in another, and a bedstead for us, in a third corner of the room. A square hole in the wall served for a window. A savoury supper, without any thing to drink, had crea- ted sufficient thirst to keep our friends awake. They were eagerly expecting our arrival, as Brother Bonatz had the key of the wagon-chest, who was now called up- on to administer a draught of wine and water to each of the party. Trying to open the shutter for air, it fell out, and as we could not leave the square hole open, for fear of a visit from some of the numerous dogs, which guard- ed the pren)ises, I had some trouble in recovering and fastening the shutter again. These operations, and the amusement occasioned by the remarks made on the ac- commodations afforded in the mansion of an African 'squire, kept us some time awake, and when at last I at- tempted to join my friend in his narrow couch, I found it utterly impossible. I therefore put on my boots and great coat, and sitting on the bed, leaning my head against the wall, got a very sound nap. To complete our happiness, we were all night serenaded by the cries of Mrs. Linde's children, in an adjoining apartment; and roused early in the morning by the dying screams of a poor pig, which, as we were afterwards informed, was butchered to provide us with a good breakfast. This was the first time I had spent a night in the enjoyment of African hospitality, and Brother Bonatz assured me, of what I was in the sequel sufficiently convinced, that it was much better than I had to expect, when travelling into the interior. We were greeted by our cheerful host VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 89 in the morning, with his hopes that we had found our- j^elves comfortably lodged, and which we could answer in the afTirmative without hypocrisy, for his good will, and desire to please us, made every thing bearable. He provided us with an excellent breakfast, broiled pork, omelets, eggs, tea and coffee, with milk and grapes m abundance, and though custom has excluded attention to what Englishmen call the comforts, yet there seems to be no want of the necessaries of life, and no feehng of inconvenience attending the absence of neatness, and elegance. We took leave of Mr. Linde, with sentiments of gratitude and esteem, having obtained from him suffi- cient information respecting the country I was about to visit, and proceeded to Gaense-Kraal, which at some dis- tance appeared very inviting with groves of lofty oaks and pines. We forded the Sonderend close to the farm, but on entering, found the building in a very dilapidated state, and the gardens much neglected. Sister Kohrham- mer was also here unsuccessful, in her endeavours to procure some articles of house-keeping, for Gnadenthah We admired the oaks growing on these premises. They are an additional proof, that had the first settlers been attentive to the growth of timber, both for their own and their children's sake, they would now have had timber and fuel sufficient, and not been under the neces- sity of fetching the former from Plettenberg-bay, and the Zitzikamma, and of stripping the country of its bushes, to procure the latter. 1 am convinced, from the experience made at Gnadenthal, and many other places, that whole forests of oak and other useful timber, might be reared in a short space of time, wherever the soil re- tains any moisture. But it appears as if neither the first settlers nor their descendants had the least notion of providing for posterity. Many answers given to me by boors, otherwise intelligent, proved that their only thought is, " What shall we eat ? What shall we drink, and wherewith shall we be clothed ? How shall we in- crease our herds of cattle, and leave to our children a set of fine beasts." Mr. Teunis senior, who is one of the ^most sensible and shrewd men I have seen in this country, very ironi- 12 90 JOURNAL OF A cally described the indolent life of the common African boors, in answer to some observations I made on the possibility of improving the cultivation of the country. •^ What,*" said he, " would you have us do ? We have nothing to do, but to till our bellies, to get good clothes, and houses ; to say to one slave, do this, and to another, do that, and ourselves to sit idle, and be waited on ; and as to our mode of tillage, or building, or planting, our forefathers did so and so, and were satisfied, and why should not w^e be the same. The English want us to use their ploughs, instead of our heavy wooden ones, and recommend other implements of husbandry than those we have been used to, but we like our old things best." From Gaense-Kraal, w^e proceeded to Soete-Melks- Valley, and Hartebeest-Kraal, the farm of Mr. William, Teunis. As we approached this place, the chain of mountains to the right assumed an appearance singular- ly romantic and beautiful. They are chiefly huge masses of rock, extremely rugged and precipitous, full of kloofs, and chasms, within which, upon but a scanty portion of soil, trees grow to a considerable height. The sides of the mountains, in many places, look like immense walls, supported by conical buttresses. Mr. William Teunis is an intelligent man. He had been employed as a commandant in the wars, both against the Catfres, and the rebellious boors, but seemed cautious in giving his opinion respecting the cause of the rebellion. An old schoohnaster, who attended his children, hear- ing that we were lovers of music, treated us with some pieces on the violin. We obtained here likewise some useful information, and after dinner, set out for Gnaden- thai. Our driver, Paul, set his oxen a-going at a rate I had nevei; yet seen. Ten of these long-horned animals in full gallop is a sight truly ridiculous. About eight in the evening, we reached our home. Here we heard, that a tyger had been seen behind Brother Leitner's garden, at the entrance of the kloof, and that a great many Hottentots, armed with guns and other weapons, had gone in search of him, but in vain. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 91 4th. After the forenoon's service, and the baptism of A child, we attended the funeral of a poor Hottentot woman. 1 guess the company that followed her re- mains to the grave to have been about three hundred in number. The Hottentot mode of burying in our settlement is this : The corpse being neatly tied or sow- ed up in skins, is laid on a bier, and covered with a white sheet. The bier is borne by six men, members of the congregation, dressed in white jackets and trowsers. After the funeral-discourse, as soon as the people have arranged themselves in front of the church, a verse is sung, treating of the happiness of those who have de- parted this life in the faith of Christ. The boys' school begins the procession, then follows the minister, prece- ding the corpse, the relations next, and lastly, the rest of the congregation two and two; the men or women ta~ king the lead, according to the sex of the deceased. As soon as the company arrive at the burial-ground, the bier being placed next to the grave, the congregation range themselves around the ground in order. The Liturgy at burials is then read, during w^hich, two of the bearers, descending into the grave, receive the body from those above, and place it in a recess, made on one side, at the bottom. The service being concluded, bushes or branches of trees are put in as high as the top of the re- cess, and the earth thrown in upon them. Of the origin of this custom 1 could obtain no information, but as it is done w^ith the greatest decency, the missionaries have wisely refrained from obliging the Hottentots to discon- tinue the practice of making a recess, and using the branches or bushes. Europeans are buried in the man- ner usual in Europe, and the service and liturgy are the same. In the evening-meeting of the whole missionary family, I communicated some recent letters from our Brethren in Greenland. 5th. At a special conference, we took into serious con- sideration, the measures to be adopted in making a re- connoitring journey into the interior, and my proposal to take Brother Schmitt and his wife, of Groenekloof, and one of the two single Brethren Lemmerz or Stein with me, was approved, I had made some experience of 92 JOURNAL OP A Cape travelling, sufficient to discover that it is no luxury ; but I came thither to serve the mission, and not to seek my ease. I therefore gladly entered upon this service, though the only plan, w^hich we could form at present^ w^a&, to take our own wagon and oxen, and to purchase an additional spann, in the interior, to help us along. It will be seen by the narrative of that journey, that, by God's gracious providence, we were enabled to per- form it on a plan much more eligible and effective ; with- out which, indeed, all our contrivances would have been rendered abortive. Thus committing our case and our- selves to His care and guidance, we are sure to be di- rected in the best way. I resolved to go in a few days to Groenekloof, and both there, and at the Cape, to make the needful ar-^ rangements, and obtain His Excellency the Governor's permission and sanction. In the afternoon, I was busily employed in making a drawing of the missionaries' premi-^ ses from the hill to the right, coming out of the kloof, having lately found a situation from which I could see some part of every building belonging to them. In the evening. Father Marsveld, after a suitable dis- course, offered up a fervent prayer for the prosperity of the work of God on earth, particularly among the hea- then, the Brethren having here followed the practice of other missionary societies in England and Holland, to meet for this purpose every first Monday in the month. 6th. I attended the instructions given by Father Mars- veld to a person who was to be confirmed, previous to her admission to the Lord's supper. I was greatly edi* fied and affected by the simplicity, cordiality and genuine piety with which this venerable man imparted his in- struction to the candidate, as well as with the attention and devotion with which she received it. At the con- clusion, he offered up a fervent prayer in her behalf, and both he and his wife added some suitable exhortations respecting her future walk and conversation, as a wor- thy communicant, and child of God. In the afternoon. Brother Lemmerz accompanied me to the hill on the other side of the Bavians-Revier, and to the garden-grounds belonging to the Hottentots. A VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 93 little man, very ill dressed, beckoned to us, inviting us to come into his cottage and grounds. From his appear- ance, I guessed him to be one of those, who were either too poor or too indolent to provide better for themselves and their families. I was therefore preparing to impart some friendly exhortation, when, on stepping within the outer fence, to my surprise, I saw a hiedge neatly cut aud trimmed, with a small gate, through which he show- ed us into one of the best cultivated gardens I have yet seen in the settlement. It was divided into squares, with borders of Indian corn, each square containing a differ- ent kind of produce, beans, potatoes, cabbages, or other vegetables. The orchard was well stocked with peach, apricot, pear, and apple-trees, in abundance. The cot- tage was mean, and his children almost naked. On in- -quiry, I found, that he was very poor, and had only one suit of decent clothing, with which the family appeared, on the Sundaj^s at church. His name was Benjamin Okkers. To-day, I received a letter from Mr. Melville, Go- vernment-surveyor at the Cape. This was the com- mencement of an acquaintance, which in the sequel proved a most valuable acquisition, and will always be considered by me, as one of those unforeseen channels, by which God, in His providence, conveys mercies unto us, and grants success to whatever we undertake, ac- cording to His will. 7th. Two Hottentot women called upon me, purpose- ly to inquire about the son of their late beloved teacher. Father Kuehnel, now at Fulnec in Yorkshire. I gave them every information in my power, and having a print of Fulnec with me, showed th^m the school, the windows of the room in which he lived, of the room in which I was born, and the chapel, which highly delighted them. I was surprised to find them not at all puzzled by a re- presentation of this kind. They proved, that they un- derstood the picture, by asking many sensible questions^ showing more intelligence than a boor, who lately on seeing an " Ecce homo^''^ (a picture of Christ, crowned with thorns,) in Father Schwinn's room, inquired, whe- 94 JOURNAL OP A ^ ther it was a picture of the English Governor at the Cape. In the evening-meeting, Brother Bonatz mentioned niy intended journey to the Cape, and in prayer com- mended me and my company to tlie protection and bless- ing of God. 8th. At four in the morning, the whole family was at breakfast, soon after which 1 set out on horseback, ac- companied by their best wishes for a prosperous jour- ney. My companion was Brother Lcmmerz, and my groom, Solomon Pfeifter, a very steady and trust-worthy Hottentot, with a led horse to carry a portmanteau. I did not feel quite well, and the missionaries, having charged Solomon to take all possible care, that I receiv- ed no harm, he was almost troublesome with his anxieties about the safety of my person. Perceiving, however, that 1 meant to ride more soberly than a Hottentot, who is always in fidl gallop, he observed, that unless Mynheer used more speed, we should not reach Mr. Alexan- der:^ larm, beyond Hottentot-Hollands-Kloof, where he thought I meant to spend the night. But, as the wea- ther was intensely hot, I had no intention of murder- ing either myself or our horses, but kept on an easy pace. After passing Klemms' farm, we met Brother Leitner returning with his wit'e from the warm-baths. We all alighted, and spent a quarter of an hour together in con- versation. Our lirst halt was at a farm, belonging to a Mr. Joorst. The heat grew almost intolerable, and we were glad to retire into any kind of shade ; not a tree or bush artbrding any delence, against the burning rays of the sun during the whole journey. The farm, like most others, is a mass of ruined walls, and wretched hovels. The master was a paralytic old German, painfully striv- ing to make himself intelligible to Brother Lemmerz, and by the help of his son, as interpreter, to satisfy his eager curiosity about the politics of the day and the fate of nations, which seemed grievously to trouble the poor man's brains, and set his lame tongue to work. He had been a sailor on board a Dutch" Indiaman, some fit>y years ago. His son was a friendly, hospitable man, an^ VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 95 a shoemaker by trade. Some hints, given by my worthy companion, relating to the necessity of his becoming, in his present infirm state, better acquainted with the things of Heaven, than those of the earth, were neither understood nor taken. We left him with emotions of sincere compassion. After a \evy hot ride over the barren desert, we reached a farm on the Botte-Revier, where f soon recog^ nised the possessor to be my old friend, whom Sister Clemens and I had visited on our journey to Gnaden- thal. (p. 5/).) Hither we had sent relay horses which were ready to carry us forward. But I was in no hur- ry to proceed, and had serious doubts, whether exposing myself longer to the rays of the sun were not sporting with my health, for by the time we reached this place, I felt quite overcome with heat and fatigue. Our host, however, treated us with so excellent a dish of tea, which, as he said, had been given him by an En- glish traveller some days ago, that it greatly revived my spirits, and a plate of fine grapes completed my recovery. Having forded the bed of the river, in which there was hardly a few inches depth of water, we reached the foot of a long hill called the Haue Hoek, where the English have established a turnpike, to cover the expense of mending the road across the mountain, which formerly was \ery rough and dangerous. We had resolved to take up our night's lodging at a German farmer's house, on the east-side of the mountain, of the name of Urie, who keeps a kind of inn, and has good accommodations; but when we reached his place, as it was yet early, I was disposed to proceed. The road is in general pretty even, but bere and there carried along a steep slope, which makes it dangerous for a loaded wagon, if not driven with great care. The view of the mountains near Hot- tentots-Holland is grand, and the variety of their shapes forms a singular outline. After fording the Palmite Re- vier, we rode up to a farm on the waste, the appearance of which was not in its favour, nor did we find the master and mistress at home. We therefore determined on pro- ceeding to the next farm, belonging to a German of the name of Sibran. 96 JOURNAL OF A He received us with a hearty welcome, and though every part of his premises betrayed poverty and a disre- gard of order, he gave us a good dish of coifee with milk, (a rare article in this part of Africa,) and a good supper : but his accommodations for sleeping were bad. Brother Lemmerz and I were jammed into a narrow bed- stead, and our Hottentot groom, contrary to the usual etiquette, lay down in the same room on the floor. The furniture of this dark chamber was in unison with gene- ral appearances. On a broken chair lay a quantity of butcher's meat, in reserve for to-morrow's dinner, when Mr. Sibran expected his wife and family to return from a journey of pleasure to Capetown. But fatigue and no choice, made us make the best of it, and we rested tole- rably well. Meanwhile, our good-humoured host did all in his power to amuse us, by relating the history of his whole life, and requesting Brother Lemmerz to examine one of his daughters in reading. Among his servants was an Englishman from Hull. 9th. x\fter paying cheaply for our fare, we set out be- fore sunrise, to pass the kloof in the cool of the morning. The ascent from the east is rough, but not steep. The wildness of the scenery can scarcely be surpassed. Rocks of every shape, weather-beaten and worn, pointed and jagged, start on all sides, to a great height, one ridge towering above the other. They are the haunts of hosts of baboons ; but some wagons having just come up, these timid creatures had probably been frightened by the cracking of whips, and fled into their lurking-pla- ces ; for though the morning is the proper time for them to make their appearance, not one was to be seen. The prospect from the summit of the kloof, over the fertile grounds of Hottentots-Holland, and towards Si- mons' and Table-bay, is delightful. We continued our route, till we arrived at Mr. Dirk Cloete's charming place beyond Stellenbosch, where we dined with the family, and rested about six hours. After sunset we proceeded, hoping to arrive at some place of shelter towards midnight, or even perhaps to reach Groe- nekloof between one and two in the morning, before the moon should set. The coolness of the evening refresh- VISIT TO SOUTH AFItlCA. 97 ed both men and horses, and We travelled pleasantly till midnight, when Solomon observed, that he had lost the track, and feared we were taking a wrong direction* Fires,, occasioned by the burning of the bushes on the sides of the hills, illumined the horizon for some time. The moon set, reddened by a kind of haze, which by degrees spread all over the sky, and covered the lower ranges of hills, leaving no marks, by which we might discover our way in the dark. We now reached a place where two roads met, one taking a westerly, and the other a northerly direction. Solomon walked forward on each, and returned with very evident marks of dismay in his countenance. " Well, Solomon," said I, " which way are we to ride ?" " Ah, Sir," replied he, " I am lost. God must help us ! Mynheer must decide, and we shall be right." The roar of the sea to westward was now very distinct, and knowiriig, that towards that quar- ter we could not err, I chose the western road, on which we proceeded with our weary horses for some time, till perceiving the light of a fire, apparently at a short dis- tance before us, we made towards it, and after much anxiety, the fire appearing and vanishing by turns, as though it fled from us, we at length arrived at it. Here we found two wagons, with two slaves sleeping on the bare ground, to whom we were announced by the bark- ing of their dogs. We dismounted, and turned the horses loose, to seek a supper. Solomon, overjoyed at finding a resting-place, exclaimed, " Well, I knew, that the road Mynheer would choose, must be the right one, though he has never been here before." The slaves in- formed us, that we were at the Diep-Revier, and in the right way to Groenekloof. Brother Lemmerz and I kept awake, and fed the fire with bushes ; but Solomon, with a saddle for his pillow, lay down on the ground, and instantly fell asleep. It was now two o'clock, and we spent the following two hours in agreeable conversa- tion, chiefly on the mercies of the Lord shown to us dur- ing our whole lives, but particularly on our late voyage and journeys together ; (o our brethren, engaged in the service of this favoured mission, and to the Hottentot race, in sending the gospel to them, I believe His eye 13 98 JOURNAL OF A was upon us in this wilderness, and He filled our hearts with His love and peace. Our situation presented a picture worthy of the pencil of the most expert artist. Two men, sitting on stones near a fire, the blaze of which illumined the surrounding heath, showing, to the right, the wearj oxen belonging to the wagons, lying in different attitudes, and at various distances, and, to the left, our horses in similar positions; the two covered wagons in the back-ground, and the slaves and Solomon asleep under the bushes. After four o'clock, some cocks in the wagons announced the approaching day. Their crowing was answered by the yells of jackals on the waste, and shortly after, by the more frightful howl of a wolf, not very far off. Some large birds flew croaking over our heads, and joined the dismal concert, accompanied by other voices unknown to us. Never did we more gladly hail the morning's dawn. We v/aked our sleepy groom, saddled our horses, and set off before the sun had risen. At the farm of a friendly miller, near the Dassenberg, both we and our hungry beasts found some refreshment, and after two hours' rest, pursued our journey towards Groenekloof. Our arrival, about noon, was unexpected. This was the hottest day known for some years at the Cape. About two in the afternoon, Fahrenheit's thermometer stood at 107^^ in the shade. I found Bro- ther Schmitt and his wife, and Brother Stein, well, and willing to accompany me on the reconnoitring journey into the interior, according to the plan projDosed. I spent the remainder of the day in walking to different parts of the village, and visiting many of the families. Some of them are very poor, which the state of the cot- tages on the west side of the valley sufliciently declares. Those who, from the number of their children, or from age or sickness,, are not able to help themselves, are now and then assisted by a collection made, at stated times, for the relief of the poor ; but wisdom and discre- tion are required in the exercise of this charity, lest a dependence upon gratuitous help should occasion ne- glect, and prevent proper exertion on the part of the healthy. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 99 11th. The Sunday-services were held as uswaL Groe* nekloof lying in the neighbourhood of large farms, Sun- day visiters frequently occasion interruption ; the Holy Communion, therefore, is here likewise celebrated in the evening. To the missionaries, as well as to me, the state of the communicant congregation here, was truly encouraging, as a proof, that " their labour is not in vain in the Lord.'' 12th. Soon after four in the morning, I heard the sweet sound of Hottentot voices, singing a hymn in the hall before my chamber-door. It reminded me, that this day was my birth-day, which had been mentioned to them by some of the missionaries. I was struck and affected by this mark of their regard, nor was their modfe of expressing it confined to a morning-song. They had dressed out my chair, at the common table, with branches of oak and laurel, and Sister Schmitt's school children, in order not to be behind in their kind offices, having begged their mistress to mark on a large white muslin handkerchief, some English words, expressive of their goodwill towards me, they managed to embroider them with a species of creeper called catVthorn, and fastened the muslin in front of a table, covered with a -white cloth, and decorated with festoons of catVthorn and field-flowers. On the table stood five large bou- quets, in glasses. The whole arrangement did credit to their taste, for Sister Schmitt had left it entirely to their own invention. This table I found placed in my room on returning from my morning's walk. The words were; "May success crown every action." Recapitulating, within my own heart, the undeserved mercies of God my Saviour, experienced during the year past, I felt particularly grateful for the favour conferred upon me, to behold with my own eyes, and hear with my own ears, what He has wrought in this distant land for the accomplishment of His thoughts of peace towards the Gentile world. To serve such a cause, shall, by His enabling grace, be my heart's delight, during the remainder of my earthly pilgrimage. The excessive heat of the last days, which we had felt so oppressively on our journey hither, seemed to JOO JOURNAL OP A have brought into action all the electricity contained in the atmosphere, and already, early in the forenoon, very dense, black, towering clouds were seen covering the mountains near Stellenbosch. It thundered almost in- cessantly in that quarter for several hours before the storm rose towards us. We were at dinner, when the increasing darkness announced its approach, and it be- gan to rain violently. I scarcely ever remember to have seen lightning so vivid, and heard peals of thunder so loud, with a crackling and roaring not to be described. In a short time, every part of the premises was inunda- ted. The streams flowed in all directions, and some hundreds of a species of frogs, or toads, came clumsily hopping from the wood, and passed in procession with the stream across the yard to the pond in the valley. For above an hour and a half, there was no intermissioR in the fury of the tempest, after which the thunder roar- ed incessantly round the horizon for three hours more. In the evening, all was calm, the air cool and refreshing, the moon shone bright, and after the family had retired to rest, I walked by moonlight, for half an hour, on the raised terrace before the house, engaged in recollec- tions, grateful and humiliating, and closed my birth-day with prayer and praise to God for all his goodness to myself, my family, friends, and connexions. I should not have noticed the celebration of this day, had it not serv- ed to exhibit some traits in the character of the Hotten- tots, whose sincerity, gratitude, and attachment to their teachers and benefactors, and their manner of express- ing these sentiments, made a deep impression on my mind, and are more deserving of record, than the day itself. 13th. Having been employed all day in various cor- respondence, Brother Schmitt and his wife agreed to ac- company me to Capetown, in a wagon and twelve oxen, leaving Brother Lemmerz and Solomon to follow us in a few days. We left Groenekloof at seven in the evening, with fine raoonhght, but in about an hour a fog, and cold, drizzling rain came on, which made us glad to take shel- ter in a cottage, consisting of two roofs without subja- cent walls, ift is built in two divisions standing in a VISIT TO SOUTH APRICA% 101 right angle, and kept by a very civil couple, whose fur- niture showed their love of cleanliness and order. The weather cleared up before we arrived at Capetown. 14th. We were received by Mrs. Disandt and her family with their wonted kindness, and spent the day in visiting friends. I was introduced to Mr. Haoimes, who accompanied the Rev. Mr. Campbell on his late tour to visit the settlements of the Missionary Society in Lon- don. 15th. I called jthis morning upon Mr. Melville, Survey- or to Government, of whose friendly letter to me I made mention on the 6th. His house is situated towards the foot of the Duivelsberg, or Devil's hill. On communica- ting to him my intention of making a journey into the interior, he expressed an inclination to accompany me, at least part of the way, which, though uncertain how it might accord with our plans, I immediately felt disposed to encourage, and before I left Capetown, my companions most gladly concurring in the measure, we made an ar- rangement, by which Mr. Melville and his family were to follow us in a fortnight to Gnadenthal, and leaving Mrs. Melville and the children there, give us the pleasure of his company, as long as his other engagements would permit. I then waited on Colonel Bird, and had a long and satisfactory conversation with him) respecting the af- fairs of Groenekloof and the above-mentioned journey. He kindly furnished me with a list of all the loan places belonging to Government, situated on the Chamtoos and Klein Reviers. Mr. Alexander coming in, insisted on my accompanying him to his seat at Kerstenbosch ; and hoping that I might find there a favourable opportunity of conversing with him, as First Colonial Secretary, on some business, which I felt anxious to have completed, I agreed and went with him. Passing Newlands, we met Mr. Bentinck, whom Mr. Alexander prevailed upon to return and dine with us. The presence of this very agreeable gentleman prevented the conversation I had proposed to myself As wolves every now and then descend from the moun- tains behind the house, and pass through the premises, and the moon shone bright, I stood long at the window. 102 J'OURNAL OF A in vain watching for them. My curiosity was punished with a severe cold. 1 6th. In the morning I felt unwell, but walked before breakfast with Mr. Alexander into his woods, up the mountain. They consist of oak, chestnut, and witte- boom. We were engaged in a discussion on affairs of our establishments in this country. After breakfast, I went with him and his lady to town, where I found an invitation from the Governor to come and spend a few days with him at Newlands. My good friend, Mr. Hancke, accompanied me, but I was far from well, and could not much enjoy the kindness and hospitality 1 experienced. Some medicine, however, relieved me. 17th. Irose, considerably recovered, and walked be- fore breakfast into the gardens, which are laid out in the Dutch style, with long avenues, covered walks, and square compartments surrounded with high trees, enclo- sing orchards and kitchen-gardens. The principal walks are made with a vermilion-coloured iron-stone, beat into gravel, or brought in that state from the mountains. Near the houses, are groves of oaks, planted in quincunx, and a labyrinth of shady paths intersecting each other. The house is large, with good rooms, and fitted up in the English taste. Looking towards it from the garden, Ta- ble-Mountain and the Devil's hill form a noble back- ground, being also here much more picturesque in their form than on the town-side. After breakfast. Captain Cloete, the Governor's Aid-de-camp, walked with me all over the grounds. His Excellency asked me to ride with him, but feeling yet somewhat feverish, I was obli- ged to decline it. When left alone, I took another gentle stroll into the wild wood under the Table-Mountain, and examined, or I should rather say, admired, some curious trees and plants, knowing nothing of the names of either genus or species. The witte-boom is used for fuel, being unfit for building, furniture, or implements of husbandry. Meanwhile signals, made at the signal-house on the Devil's hill, and shortly after a despatch, announced the arrival of a Dutch ship of war, with the Governor of Batavia, Baron de Capelle, on board. The Governor was therefore again obliged to postpone his intended VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 103 journey to GrootcrPost near Groenekloof, and my vi- sit to Newlands was likewise shortened. I employed my time in writing several letters to England. 18th. His Excellency having suffered me to claim his attention to some business this morning, I had the satis- faction of much private conversation with him, both be- fore and during breakfast, and experienced every mark of good-will in his approbation of the subjects I laid be- fore him, both relating to the building of a new church at Groenekloof, the possession of land belonging to our settlements, the objects of my intended expedition, and the gift of such unoccupied land, as I might find suitable for a third settlement. He promised, that letters should be directed to the landdrosts of Zwellendam, George, and Uitenhagen, to afford me every facility in my search, which, in the sequel, proved of the most essential service to me. On this occasion, I became better than ever ac- quainted with his Excellency's favourable disposition to- wards the Missions of our Church, as thev contribute to further the propagation of Christianity, and to introduce industry and civilization among a nation, hitherto con- sidered as the most abject and degraded part of the hu- man race, but whose improvement and welfare he seem- ed eager to promote; and I could ever after feel full confidence in proposing to him any plan, having these benefits for its object. As he went to town to meet the Dutch Governor, he proposed to send word, whether he should stay or re- turn, and kindly detained me. My time was well spent in writing and completing my journal and memorandums, till his return. 19th. The Governor, attended by his son and two dragoons, went to town. Captain Cloete with myself followed in his coach. Brother Lemmerz having arriv- ed in town from Groenekloof, we resolved to set out on our return to Gnadenthal in the afternoon. It turned out a windy evening. After about two hours' ride through the sands, or Cape Downs, we hoped to find shelter with a farmer; but as he had no stable for our horses, we proceeded, and after two hours more, reach- ed a small farm, near the Erste Revier, where, after 10 i JrOUIlNAL OF A battering for some time at doors and windows, we found no entrance. Total silence announced the family fled. We forded the river, and called at another larger farm, where we were assailed by ten or twelve fierce dogs, and heard the woman of the house bid her slave tell us, that, her husband being absent at Stellenbosch, she could not give us quarters, in which, however, she was contra-- dieted by her more honest servant. It was midnight, and our horses as well as ourselves were not much dis- posed to proceed. But there was no remedy. Provi- dentially the night was fair, and the moon shone bright. At one, we reached a good-looking house, from which we were again sent to get accommodations at a Veldcor- net's. We crept on, and on our arrival, a slave-girl openiog the door, told us, that her master and mistress were gone out, and had left her alone in the house; then banged the door in our faces. What could we do, but keep on our way. At two, we reached Mr. Mor- kel's farm at HottentotVHolland. Here a slave took pity on us and our beasts, provided the latter and our groom with good quarters and food, and showed us into an empty room, w^ith a plate of peaches on the table. In an adjoining chamber stood two empty bedsteads, on one of which, with my portmanteau for my pillow, I en- joyed some refreshing sleep for about three hours. My companion slept in a chair. 20th. On rising, the family received us kindly, lament* ed their not having been aware of our arrival, and treat- ed us with a good breakfast. About seven o'clock, we reached Hottentot-Holland's Kloof, where Mr. Schultz, late of Gnadenthal, overtook and kept us company all day. We made halt for a few hours at Veldcornet Schwartz's house, and passing to the left of the great Haue Hoek, over a wretched-looking wilderness, de- scended to the Botte Revier. The many fires kindled on the mountains, by the burning of bushes, gave the country the appearance of a manufacturing district in England, and our imagination conjured up furnaces, coke-burnings, and stacks of iron-works, in the midst of this uninhabitable waste. By Mr. Schultz's good gui- dance, we forded the river safely, and found our way VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 105 along the valley to Mr. Leroux's farm, where we were well received and entertained by him and his numerous family. 21st. We set out before sunrise, and hastened towards Gnadenthal. Mr. Schultz accompanied us across the hills, as far as the vale of the Sonderend, when he turn- ed to the right. In the vale are some delightful pros- pects, and the mountains about the Yagersbosch are sin- gularly grand and picturesque. We entered Gnaden- thal from the west, by Robyntjes Kraal, a farm within the boundary of the Brethren's land, and, descending from the hill, were charmed with the view of the village, the great mountain rising majestically beyond it. When the Hottentots perceived us, they came out of their cot- tages and gardens to the road-side to bid us welcome, and we soon found ourselves again in the midst of our friends and Brethren. To my great satisfaction, one of the first objects that presented itself in riding into the missionaries' premises, was the foundation of the new house, laid in the best manner, and a number of Hottentot workmen diligently employed. We now began seriously to make preparations for the reconnoitring journey, and Brother Bonatz had, during our absence, engaged oxen and drivers. In the after- noon I walked out, determined not to yield to drowsiness, and lose any part of the short time I am favoured to re^ main at Gnadenthal. After all I have seen of situations in this country, I have found none to be compared to Gnadenthal for snugness, cleanliness and comfort : and I often felt disposed to wish that I were young, and my lot cast in this place, that, with full vigour of mind and body, I might assist in this work. 22d. Brother Thomsen accompanied me to the nur- sery of young trees of various kinds, chiefly kierbooms, oaks, and firs, situated beyond the burial-ground. They seem at present to be in a thriving state, and if any de- pendence could be placed upon the growth of wood in this soil, provision is here made for timber and fuel for future generations. Brother Leitner then showed me the foundation of a school-room, which I had previously 14 106 JOURNAL OF A directed to be added to the new house, destined for the use of his wife, who, like her countrywoman, Sister Schmitt of Groenekloof, has instructed a number of Hot- tentot girls in working satin-stitch, which they do with great neatness. Thunder-storms and heavy rains pre- vented our meeting at the church this evening, but we held a conference, relating to various outward con- cerns of the settlement, concluding with the usual even- ing worship. The weather grew very boisterous to- wards night, with Hghtning, thunder, rain, and hail. 23d. I was busily engaged all day, and among other employments, undertook to assist Brother Bonatz in making grave-stones for two of his children, who died on one day, of the hooping cough. How distressing this bereavement proved to the parents, no pen can describe, but they sought and found comfort in resignation to the will of God. Were it but for these effects of true reli- gion, how eagerly ought men to seek to become possess- ed of it. A heart truly devoted to, and relying upon, a gracious heavenly Father, can never become a prey to despair. Having been charged fifty-eight rix-dollars for a grave-stone from the Cape, Brother Bonatz, anxious to save that expense to the Mission, procured two squares of good sand-stone, and was endeavouring to do the work himself. As I had, when a boy, sometimes watched a mason near our school, cutting in stone, I was able to assist, and in due time, though but dilettanti in the art, we produced well-executed inscriptions, and placed the stones on the graves, to the great admiration of the Hot- tentots, with whom ability to work with the hands is far more highly esteemed, than any learning and labour of the mind. In the evening, two pair were betrothed. When a Hottentot wishes to marry, he mentions his in- tention to the missionaries, with the name of the person he has chosen. A time being fixed for the purpose, they promise each other marriage, in presence of all the mis- sionaries, and receive suitable exhortations respecting their conduct, the precepts given in the word of God concerning the married state, being explained to them. They are then recommended publicly to the prayers of VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 107 the congregation, and, shortly after, married at the church, in a public meeting. To-day a child was drowned in the Bavians-Revier. Means were used for its recovery, but in vain. 24th. After breakfast, I visited some Hottentots' gar- dens, which were kept in good order, and also walked with Brother Leitner, to see the Hottentots making un- burnt bricks. The clay of this country hardens to such a degree, that a brick made of it, and well dried in the sun, is more difficult to break, than many a stone. In the afternoon was the funeral of the poor drowned child. Brother Leitner delivered a very suitable discourse to the children, on the uncertainty of Hfe, When it had grown too dark to write, I sat down to play something on the piano-forte. Hearing a rustling behind me, I perceived, that three or four Hottentot girls had quietly entered the room, to listen to the music. I told them, that 1 would play for Mem, but they should sing forme, as I wished to ascertain, whether, by the help of an instrument, they would keep true to the tune, without sinking their voices. They then gave out, and sung some verses, in different tunes ; I always found them true to the pitch of the instrument, though every now and then I let them sing some lines by themselves, then falling in with the piano-forte, found they had not in the smallest degree lowered their voices. The number of singers gradually increased to thirty. I was pleased with this new proof of the naturally musical qualities of this nation, and was convinced, that the sinking of the voices at church, is only owing to bad precentors, but would bq prevented by an organ. After our evening-worship, the spirit of singing seemed to come upon us, and we w ere above an hour engaged in playing and singing verses to a variety of beautiful Ger- man hymn-tunes, some of which were new tome. To-day, a tree-serpent haunting a tree near the garden gate, was announced by the fiscal-bird. The bird did not cease calling and screaming, till the venomous rep- tile was discovered and killed. Two serpents of the same kind were shot in the garden. 23th. About two hundred persons attended the funeral 108 JOURNAL OF A of a worthy member of the congregation, who departed this hfe, having given full evidence of her faith in Jesus, and her hope of a blessed immortality* In the afternoon, a deputation of Hottentots came to request a conversation with us, about the appointment of a captain of the Hesqua tribe, intimating, that there was too much work here for only one captain of the Koop- man's tribe. After proposing the subject. Brother Bo- natz represented to them, that the captain, regularly ap- pointed by Government, with two resident captains, and a corporal to assist him, could surely manage the con- cerns of this village ; but that it appeared to him, as if, according to the fashion of the heathen, they wanted now to distinguish their particular clans^ by having a captain for each, which had, in their heathen state, produced nothing but quarrels. Those who now addressed us, were all of the Hesqua tribe. Being appealed, and de- sired to give my opinion of this extraordinary business, I did it to the following effect : " When I arrived among you, I expected to find here a family of God, who considered it their highest privilege to live together in true brotherly love and harmony, as One in Jesus, delivered and redeemed from the traditions received by the vain conversation of your forefathers, who were heathen, and knew not God and His word, but were left to themselves. " Your divisions into separate clans, attached to par- ticular chiefs and captains, has produced, and would again produce envy, jealousy, quarrels, and feuds, very unbe- coming Christian people. Whenever the Hottentots of Gnadenthal are spoken of by the members of Govern- ment, I rejoice to hear them praised for the quietude and good order prevailing among them, which make the usual precautions taken to preserve good order, by multiplying magistrates and other officers, unnecessary in this place. You say yourselves, that the captain's business is not in the village, but out of it, in securing deserters, assisting in the regulation of taxes, &c. and in other general affairs of the country. For that, he has a salary and leisure, and with the before-mentioned assistants, may easily accom- plish his task. Do you wish to be like the heathen, VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 109 who glory in some favourite chief? Then let me tell you, from the history of the Jews, once the only chosen people of God, how it went with them when, from the same motive, they demanded a king.'' I then told them the story, and Father Marsveld added, *^ Yes, and you will remember, that when Samuel complained of their conduct to the Lord," His answer was, " they have not rejected Thee^ but Jlf without permitting any washing. I found at length the inside of the wagon the most comfortable retreat, where I continued writing my diary, though the ink dried so fast within my pen, that I could hardly proceed. About six in the evening, we left this place, which, by way of distinction, we called the Hot Out-spann, and after tra- velling for some time along the low hills above mention- ed, crossed the Breede Revier by moonlight. Its banks are covered with wood and bushes, and its bed is full of large, rough stones. We encamped on the eastern bank for the remainder of the night. 8th. After a ride of about four hours, we crossed the Leuwe Revier, near a pleasant farm. Its banks are very steep, and in some places formed of perpendicular rocks, resembling mud-walls in colour. Having forded another smaller stream of brackish water, we halted on a waste, with a woody dell behind, and the magnificent range of the Zwellendam mountains before us^ towards which, after two hours' rest, we directed our course, Thf^ morning had b^en uncommonly clear, and we were J 22 rOURNAL OF A enjoying the view, when suddenly clouds began to cover their tops. In a short time, we were enveloped in a dense fog, followed by heavy rain, which did not cease till we reached Zwellendam, about two P. M. I immediately waited on the landdrost, Mr. Von Buis- sini, and presented the letter, written by Colonel Bird in the name of the Governor, and which, as a proof of the kind attention of his Excellency to promote every at- tempt to spread civilization among the Hottentots under his government, by means of Christian instruction, I beg leave to insert, especially as it proved the source of all that ease and comfort, which we enjoyed during a jour- ney of such length, attended frequently with great diffi- culties and dangers. The same letter was addressed to the landdrosts of the districts of Zwellendam, George, and Uitenhagen. Sir, I am directed by his Excellency, the Governor, to beg your attention to the bearer, the Rev. Mr. Latrobe. Mr. Latrobe's object in visiting your drosty, is to ascertain whether there is any unoccupied Government- land in your district, v*^hich would be suitable for esta- blishing an institution of Hottentots under the superin- tendency of the Moravian Brethren. It is his Excel- lency's desh^e, therefore, that you may be pleased to afford to this gentleman the fullest information in your power on the subject, and his Excellency will esteem any civility you may show Mr. Latrobe, as a favour done to himself. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient servant, C. BIRD, Colonial OJfin , Fehruarij Vo, 181b. The landdrost, after perusing this letter, expressed his great readiness to lend every assistance in promoting an object, to which he had always shown the most favour- able disposition, and was glad to be thus authorized to act consistently with his own inclinations, in aiFordmg VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 123 every facility to our undertaking. He immediately pro- posed to give me a letter to the Veldcornets and others in his district, to be valid as far as George, requiring them to furnish us with two spanns of oxen at every station, and with as many drivers, leaders, and guides, as we might want. Though I not only felt grateful for such an indulgence, but was convinced, that we could not proceed far with our own oxen, as they already showed symptoms of great weariness, yet at first I was not disposed to accept of the landdrost's generous offer, considering myself not entitled to such distinction, and disliking the idea of be- coming burdensome to the farmers, by pressing their men and cattle into our service, perhaps with injury or inconvenience to themselves. On both these subjects, however, the landdrost satisfied my mind, particularly by stating, that the farmers received a sufficient conside- ration for services thus performed, and had no reason to complain, since the English Government had ruled the colony. It was our intention to have purchased a spann at this place, a measure which was now superseded; and as we could spare at least one of our Hottentots, old Christian Hector was sent home with the spann we had hired at GnadenthaL Mr. and Mrs. Von Buissini insisted upon our taking up our abode at their house, and treated us with every mark of kindness and hos- pitality. The drosty is a substantial, spacious, well-furnished mansion, and the premises much improved by the pre- sent landdrost. The town or village lies scattered, and consists of several single houses or rows of buildings, connected with each other, without much regularity. The church is a neat plain structure, without a toAver. The number of inhabitants is said to be about three hundred. The situation of Zwellendam is under the highest part of a range of lofty mountains, whose rocky summits assume all manner of singular shapes. Two peaks, like truncated cones, form their principal feature, and the kloofs and beds of torrents, with which their steep sides are furrowed, have an almost terrific appearance. Parallel to their foot runs a range of low ^^i JOURNAL OF A round hills, some of which are rocky, others, clothed with verdure. 9th. The oxen required by the landdrost to be fur- nished for us, eighteen in number, were early at hand, and the drivers in haste to proceed. Having been ad- vised to take our own spann with us as a reserve, we appointed Lebrecht Aris to the care of them; Jeremias to drive the baggage^wagon ; Leonhard Paerl to take charge of the saddle-horses, and Marcus and Johannes to attend the lighter wagon. About nine A. M. we left the landdrost's hospitable mansion, in which we had felt ourselves quite at home. In Mr. Von Buissini, we found a friend, and a man of superior intellect and information. He speaks English fluently, as likewise German and other languages, and possesses a good library. Mrs. Buissini is a lady of most affable and benevolent character, and treated Sister Schmitt with great kindness. She also bestowed several necessary articles of provisions upon us, such as fowls, wheaten bread, and garden fruits. At her request. Sis- ter Schmitt visited a Hottentot maid-servant, who for- merly belonged to the Groenekloof congregation, till her husband finding work in this place brought her hither. She was confined to her bed by a severe illness, and on seeing Sister Schmitt enter the room, burst into a flood of tears, exclaiming, '^ This, indeed, is an answer to my prayers, for I have cried incessantly unto the Lord, especially during my present illness, to grant me the favour again to see one of my teachers." The landdrost had mentioned the Settlement at Zuur- brack, belonging to the Missionary Society in London, about half a day's journey from Zwellendam, as worthy of our notice, and had given orders to our drivers to pass through that place, on our way to the next station at the Groot Vaders Bosch. They were civil, good-humoured people, and drove at a brisk rate, often at a sharp trot. The road was good, the weather pleasant, clear, and cool, and our party in excellent spirits. As we left Zwel- lendam, the views to the south became more extensive, and the mountains to the north assumed a milder charac= VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 125 ter, till the view of the high range was intercepted by lower hills. Farms are not numerous in this part of the country. We crossed several brooks, and regretted to see a good deal of water, that precious fructifying agent in this dry land, running to waste, though the valleys appeared capa- ble of culture. But the land allotted to each farm occu- pies so large a tract of country, and labourers are so scarce, that some apology may be made for the inhabi- tants. Since the slave-trade has been abolished, and the slaves remaining in the colony are sold at an enormous price, particularly if they are skilled in any art, the ser- vices of Hottentots are more wanted in the cultivation of the land. Thus they have been taught better to know their own value, and will no longer submit to the treat- ment they formerly received. Being both by Dutch and English laws a free nation, they cannot be compelled to serve an unjust or tyrannical master, and it is solely ow- ing to their natural indolence, that many of them remain in poverty and misery. The effect of Christian instruc- tion contributes most towards raising them from the ab- ject and wretched state, into which they had been plun* ged, by gradually changing their dispositions, and making them obedient, not only to the precepts of the Gospel, but to all those moral and civil obhgations which it incul- cates, as they are successively explained to them by their tea^chers. About an Enghsh mile above a pleasant farm, called Rotterdam, we arrived at the BuefTeljagd's Revier. The bushes covering both banks near the ford consist chiefly of the mimosa. Having crossed the river, we turned to the left, out of the main road, under a hill, the ascent of which was covered with a profusion of large aloes. This was the first time we had seen this singular plant growing in such abundance. The vale of the Zuurbrack is, at its entrance from the west, narrow and full of wood. The BuefTeljagd's Re- vier winds from side to side between steep banks, and must be forded twice before the missionary Institution can be approached. A few Hottentot women, imitating the custom at Gnadenthal, came out to meet us, and 126 JOURNAL OF A walking alongside of the wagons, bid us welcome with a hymn. The valley w^idens near the settlement, and ap- pears to be a spot well chosen for the purposes of such an institution. VVe were received by Mr. and Mrs. Seidenfaden, her mother, and brother, and his assistant, Mr. Wimmer, with great kindness. After some conver- sation and refreshment, we proceeded to see Mr. Seiden- faden's gardens, which are well laid out. After dinner, we walked w^ith him through the Hottentot village, which at present consists of one row of huts on the north side of the valley. Some of them we entered, and conversed with the inhabitants. They were friendly, and express- ed their thankfulness for the instruction they receive, and for the zeal with which the missionaries endeavour to promote their temporal and spiritual welfare. Mr. Seidenfaden is a man of an active, benevolent mind, and generous spirit. He has himself built a good substantial house, with a spacious hall, in which he meets his congregation, and keeps school with the children and young people. The Missionary Society in London, un- der whose direction he acts, have not as yet thought proper to build a church in this place, and the small sum he could raise for the purpose, proved quite inade- quate to the undertaking. A beginning, however, was made on an eminence near the house, but his expecta- tions failing, the work remains unfinished. He appears to deserve more encouragement, for the situation is such^ that in time a considerable settlement might be formed. After a pleasant stay of about four hours with this worthy family, we set out for the next station, accompa- nied by Mr. Seidenfaden and his brother-in-law on horseback, to direct us in crossing the river, the banks of which are so very steep, that all the skill of Hottentots in driving was required, to bring the wagons and oxen safely through the water. At one of the "fords, an ox, becoming wild, disengaged himself from the yoke. But we were in a most romantic place, in which s*^ome deten- tion was not unpleasant. While the Hottentots were pursuing the frightened beast, the wagons remaining sta- tionary in the midst of the stream, we contemplated with delight the surrounding scenery. To the right, the wa- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 127 ter rushed forward between steep, woody banks, in the deep shade of overspreading trees, towards a range of low hills, enclosing the valley to the south. To the left rose a dark, gloomy forest, ascending a deep kloof, be- tween perpendicular rocks, and stretching along the foot of the mountains, whose tops were enveloped in black clouds, rendered more frowning, as contrasted with the splendour of a bright sun in the west, beautifully light- ing up every part of the valley, while the sides of the mountains were buried in shade. The river seemed to fly from the dark recesses of the kloof towards a milder region. Close by the ford lay the skeleton of an ox; wolves, jackals, and tygers having feasted on its flesh, of which but little was left for Mr. Seidenfaden's large dog. This fine animal had accompanied us, and now improved the opportunity of making a meal of the re- mainder; for the dogs belonging to African farmers and Hottentots are not regularly fed, but live upon what they find. Having secured the wild ox, we proceeded, and soon took leave of our worthy friends, who returned to Zaur brack, with our best wishes and prayers for God's blessing to rest upon their labours. Our road lay through the valley, and as long as It was light, we feasted our eyes on the delightful scenery, till we reached the farm of Mr. V^an Ass, in Groot Vader's Bosch. This was the first boors house, to which we had recourse for a night's lodging. When we produced the landdrost's order for Vorspann, Mr. Van Ass made many difficulties, complaining, that it put him to great in- convenience to harbour and forward us on our journey ; that he had no beds, and could render us no assistance in providing supper, though there were ten or more slaves and Hottentot maids in his kitchen, unemployed. At length, he showed us into a room, where we might put down our mattresses, and even agreed, that Sister Schmitt might have the use of the kitchen-fire. Finding ns satisfied with his arrangements, he brightened up a little, and entered into conversation with civility. As it turned out a wet night, our Hottentots slept in the tent. 10th. A thick fog covered the mountains, but while we were at breakfast, it cleared away, and presented to 128 JOURNAL OP A our view a charming landscape. Mr. Van Ass^s premi- ses seem formerly to have been kept in better order than they are at present. He is a bachelor, and his domestics appeared to be an idle crew. Sister Schmitt, having discovered, that several of the women professed to be- long to the Zuurbrack congregation, though they very sel- dom went thither, represented to them, how much they had to answer for, when so favourable an opportunity was afforded them to hear the word of God for their salvation, if they made light of it, neglecting the means, and even dishonouring the cause of the Gospel by their lives and conversation. Her reproof, delivered with great mildness, seemed to make some impression upon them. On our leaving the place, several of them ex- pressed a wish to have more conversation with her, as we slowly followed the wagons up the hill, and seemed much affected at taking leave. The Groot Vader's Bosch is a forest retained by Go- vernment, the trees growing chiefly in the kloofs and valleys, which intersect the high range of mountains. As we proceeded, the appearance of the country grew less interesting. Very few farms are seen in the wide waste towards thie south. Some kivits, or plovers, were the only birds, and a duyker (antelope) the only quadruped we saw, during several hours' ride. The low hills are covered with aloes, and the vales rich in bushes, chiefly of the mimosa kind. At two o'clock, we reached Mr. Lombard's farm, on Duyven hoek's Revier. This gentleman is a relation of Mr. Von Helsland, on Bock Revier. As he had been a commandant of the volunteer farmers in the CaiTre war, and was well acquainted with all the country about the Chamtoos and Klein Reviers, I showed him the list of Government-places I had received, through the kindness of the Colonial Secretary, which led him to give us some interesting information concerning the situation, -nature of the soil, and present possession of these places, by which, in some measure, we were directed in our future inquiries. He seemed anxious to detain us, and finding in him a xevy intelligent and well-informed man, we would wil- lingly have availed ourselves of his friendly invitation^ VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 129 had we not wished to make the best use of our time in the prosecution of our journey. For the services Mr. Lombard rendered to General Dundas in theCaffre war, he was presented with a very elegant gun. His farm is well built, and situated upon a rising ground, command- ing a fine prospect across the river, towards the moun- tains. The walls of the hall, which is the common room of the family, were decorated with French prints, more highly finished in their execution, than decent in their sub- jects. On taking leave, Mr. Lombard pressed us, on our return, to spend three or four days with him, when he would take us to the seacoast, show us the surrounding country, hunt with Mr. Melville, and, as a summxim bo- num^ treat us with oysters. Both in approaching to, and leaving this farm, we had to cross the Duyvenhoek's Revier, which, by some par- tial rain on the hills, had acquired both depth and rapid- ity. The road to our next station was interesting only by a full view of the grand ridge of mountains, which here assumed a different character, appearing in de- tached parties, with a high peak towards the west, and a precipitous descent to the east. About six in the evening, we arrived at Mr. Piet Du Preez's farm, where we met with a cordial reception. We found here a Mr. S. a smith by trade, who had for- merly belonged to our Church, and resided in some of the settlements of the Brethren in Germany. He seem- ed much pleased to meet with countrymen in the Breth- ren, Schmitt and Stein. Two English dragoons were as much delighted to see three o{ their countrymen, but told us, that in consequence of the capture and punishment of five of the boors, engaged as principals in the late re- bellion, the people in the Langekloof were ill-disposed towards the English, and very sulky. As the weather was fair, we wished to proceed another stage, but the family protested against it, the road being too bad for night-travelling. It was well we staid within doors, for unexpectedly a thick fog announced a change of wca- the r. 17 J 30 JOURNAL OF A CHAPTER VIl. Zeekoegat on the Vat Revier. Conversation with Hottentots. Soete^Melks'Valley. Delay at Tygerfonteyn^ and on the Gowritz Revier. Kleinberg. MosseUBay. Arrange- ments made by Government. Aloes. Mr. Meyer^s farm at Hartenbosch. Account of Wild Beasts. Flying Ants. Beautiful scenery on the Great Brak Revier. Groene-- land. Description of Hoogte Kraal. Arrival at George. Account of the Kxecution of five of the rebellious boors. 11th. Having despatcned a horseman to the next Veld- cornet for relays, and taken leave of our kind host and hostess, we left their hospitable mansion about seven in the morning. Mr. Du Preez is a lively old man, and constantly wears a large round hat. His house is well built, and the farm extensive. The oxen he had furnish- ed were extremely wild, and set off in a gallop. They almost ran over our Hottentot Johannes, as he was tack- ing through the bushes, down the hill, towards the river. We passed through several pretty vales, full of shrubs and low wood, in which the thorn-bush and milk-bush, (fiscus,) a tree not unlike a Portugal laurel, were most abundant. The hills are low and heathy. In one of these sequestered vales, we made halt to breakfast. Near the road lay the carcasses of three large vultures, half devoured by beasts of prey. About noon we arriv- ed at Zeekoegat, on Vat Revier, a large farm belonging to Mr. Cpbus Du Preez. An avenue of noble oaks leads up to the house. The buildings are substantial, and surrounded by rich plantations, unlike most of the farm- ers' dwellings in this country. The master very civilly came out to meet us, and prevailed on us to stay with him, till the heat of the day had somewhat abated. Af- ter dinner- Mr. Du Preez walked with us into the grounds, where oranges, lemons, figs, peaches, and other fruits grow in rich abundance. This is owing to the quantity of water, by which he is able to irrigate all his orchards, gardens, and vineyards. Seeing some Hot- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 131 tentot women sitting under the shade of a large orange tree, Brother Schmitt addressed them, asking some questions relating to their knowledge of spiritual thingjs, as one of them professed to belong to Mr. Seidenfaden's congregation. She seemed, however, to have little con- cern about the way of salvation, and very seldom attend- ed the ministry of that good man, or visited his institu- tion. She said, her name was written down, and thought that enough; but Brother Schmitt very earnestly ad- monished her and her companions, not to neglect the op- portunity afforded them to hear the word of God, nor to be content with having their names written down in man's book, but to turn in faith to Christ the only Sa- viour, that they might, on the great day of judgment, find their names written in the book of life. They seem- ed attentive to his serious but affectionate address. The view up the vale of the Vat Revier is grand, high mountains forming the back-ground. One of them has a remarkable precipice towering above the other sum- mits. We left Zeekoegat towards evening, and had two young lively slaves for drivers, but the leader was a poor timid old fellow, who could hardly creep along. We therefore dismissed him, at a place where he had a home, and made Johannes leader, which, though an of- fice inferior to that of driver, he willingly undertook. The slaves drove their oxen at a gallop, sometimes to the endangering of our safety, on a road full of holes and slopes. But our remonstrances were answered only by good-humoured laughter. After travelling for some miles, we found the chain of hills, to which the road had long run parallel, take another direction, and assume a different appearance, presenting an outline of Table- Mountain's round-topped, triangular, conical, or gently- sloping summits. We were sorry, that by darkness and fogs they were so soon hid from our view. About nine o'clock we arrived at an outspann-place, Soete-Melk's- Valley, and encamped in the field. The name did not deceive us, for the good-natured baas of the adjoining farm, coming out to meet us, offered to supply as much sweet milk as we might want. We therefore sent a man to his house, and got enough for supper, and to fill i:J2 jotJKNAL or A our bottles in store for the next day. Our friendly neigh- bour spent about an hour in conversation with us. He was eager after news, and of a more inquisitive turn than many of his brethren. My fire-box surprised and amus- ed him much. Being a dealer in timber, he gave us t^ome interesting information concerning the state of the Woods. As the pressed oxen were rather wild, and too near home, to be left loose in the waste, without danger of their escaping, the men tethered them to the wagons, by which we were greatly annoyed during the night. Our own oxen, which we had not seen since we left Zwellendam, overtook us at this place, and as the tent happened to be pitched on a grassy spot, they soon came brovvzing close to it. This disturbed us a little, but we were completely roused, when some of them began to tight with the strangers, and it required all the attention of our men to keep them in order. 12th. After a restless night, we broke up early, but not before our talkative neighbour had paid us another visit. We proceeded through a dull country, the weather cloudy, and the views obscured. We saw many rehbocks, and Marcus Moses was sent, but in vain, to get us some venison. Between nine and ten we arrived at Cornelius Snyman's farm, Tygerfonteyn, deriving its name from the death of a Hottentot by a tyger, some years ago. Here we hoped to find oxen, but, through the blunder of the Veldcornet, were disappointed. Mr. Snyman and his wife were civil people, and we all soon found em- ployment, Mr. Melville and I in writing and drawing; Sister Schmitt, with the help of the maids, in attending to our linen, and the Brethren Schmitt and Stein, in fol- lowing some ostriches, with the vain hope of shooting one of these wary and swift-footed birds. To please the chddren, I set up my microscope, and though some were afraid to peep into it, the father and mother, and a little boy seemed highly gratified by the exhibition. Unpleasant as in many respects this delay appeared, yet we were glad that we had met with a friendly family, who did all in their powder to assist us. 13th. Our generous host and hostess would take VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 133 nothing for what we had enjoyed at their house, but even provided us, gratis, with milk and bread for our journey. For a fine fat sheep, Mr. Snyman was satisfied to take two Gnadenthal knives, called here Boschlem- mers, the goodness of which has long recommended them to the inhabitants of the colony. From hence we tra- velled through a bushy country, with a vast variety of flowering shrubs and plants, many of which we brought into the wagons to examine. They afforded us great gratification, though our want of knowledge in botany made it impossible to describe them. After a ride of nearly four hours, we forded the Gowritz Revier, which here has a sandy bed, enclosed between low, heathy hills. The descent to the river is very steep. We passed between two farms, both of which had received orders to furnish oxen. But we were again disappointed, and obliged to encamp. The plain was almost covered with a species of large black beetles, apparently journeying from place to place, disgusting in their shape, and slowly crawling upon every thing we laid down. Meanwhile Mr. Melville found an old friend, Mr. Petersen, Govern- ment-Surveyor of the district of George, who had just arrived, and to whom he mentioned the object of our journey. The surveyor being well acquainted with every part of the district, his information was of much use to us, but he gave us no hopes of finding any unoc- cupied land suitable for a missionary settlement, either near George or in Mossel-Bay. To the latter place we had resolved to bend our course, both by advice of Mr. Von Buissini, and in con- sequence of an offer of land made to me by the Colonial Secretary, Mr. Ale^xander, in case we should find his estate an eligible situation. Brother Schmitt was here taken very ill with violent headach, and general weakness. When we therefore had procured oxen, we were obliged to proceed gently, as he found the motion of the wagon almost insupport- able. The slave-boy, given us for a leader, was a re- markably lively lad, and, with his stories and mimickries, afforded to our Hottentots a good deal of merriment. In general, we seldom found the slaves, either old or young, 134 JOURNAL OF A much depressed by their situation. They appeared full of vivacity and mirth. About six o'clock we arrived at a farm on Stinkrevier. Mr. Melville accompanied me into the yard, vi^here we sought in vain for the proprietor. Only one Hottentot maid seemed left in charge of the premises. Half a hundred geese, and as many ducks, turkeys, and fowls, having probably been accustomed to be fed atx5ut this time, came running and flying towards us, jsrii cackling and crying out for food. They followed tfs to the wa- gons, and we could not refuse a meal to such hungry sup- plicants. Having left our orders for a relay, we proceeded to- wards the river, which was nearly dry, and pitched our tent for the night. The moon shone bright, but the air was very cold. The Hottentots, therefore, after making a hearty meal, retired into the wagons to sleep. 14th. Early, we were disturbed by a great bleating of oxen and other noises close to the tent. We rose to see what was the matter, and perceived, that about fifty head of cattle, passing on to a grazing place, according to their usual custom, greeted the strangers. Being tethered to the wagons, and not able to follow, the lat- ter answered by moans, expressive of their disappoint- ment, some even making serious attempts to disengage themselves. This serenade broke our rest, and pre- pared us for an early departure. No oxen being fur- nished by the farmer, we detained those we had in pos- session, and after a ride of two hours, arrived at a farm called Kleinberg. Here we were received by the far- mer Muller, with much civility, and though we had sent Leonhaid forward with the landdrost's order to the Veldcornet, and had no written commands to produce, he readily furnished us with the two spanns required, supplied us with various articles we wanted ; and, having a smithy adjoining his house, permitted Brother Schmitt, who understands something of the trade, to convert an iron bar into a pot-hook, to be used at our nocturnal fires; which proved a desirable acquisition. Few Hottentots live in this part of the country, and those we saw seemed to be in miserable plight. At VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 135 Kleinberg, we found an old gray-headed man. On put- ting a few questions to him^ we discovered him to be quite ignorant, not even knowing that there was a God, who had created all things, and by whose mercy and power all things subsist. Brother Schmitt endeavour- ed to make him acquainted with that, which surely to a man on the brink of the grave must be of most impor- tance, the love of God in Christ Jesus. The poor old man seemed to listen with eagerness, while the missiona- ry explained to him the way of salvation, and how a sinner, such as he acknowledged himself to be, might be pardoned and reconciled by the merits of the sufterings and death of our Saviour. He then exhorted him not to forget what he had heard, but before this life was ended, to cry for mercy and the remission of his sins, that he might be accepted of God, and depart into the mansions of peace and bliss. This the poor old Hottentot promi- sed to do. We now proceeded towards Mossel-Bay, and got on with speed. The country through which we travelled was uninteresting. We passed by a farm belonging to Mr. Alexander, and turning to the left, towards the coast, soon came in sight of the buildings erected by Govern- ment in the bay. On our arrival, we were very civilly received and hospitably entertained by Mr. Abue, the store-keeper. He is by birth a Dane. While dinner was preparing, I took a walk to the seashore. The rocks consist chiefly of sand-stone, coloured in some places by iron or manganese, with veins of quartz. I had broken several pebbles by throwing them upon the rocks, for want of a hammer, when a large fragment flew into my face, threw my spectacles aside, and wound- ed my cheek qlose to my right eye. For some minutes it put me to a considerable degree of pain, and I was apprehensive of injury done to the eye itself; but on bathing the wound with salt water, it ceased to bleed, and the pain left me. I felt thankful to God, that my glass- es were not broken, and forced into the eye by the stone. Our friendly host applied some camphorated brandy, by which all inflammation was prevented. Not being able to obtain any oxen, we were under the 136 JOURNAL OF A necessity of remaining some hours at this place, to give to those we had brought with us sufficient time for food and rest. Mr. Abue showed us the premises, and went with us into the king's store-house, built as a deposit for corn, to be purchased at a fixed price from the farmers, and shipped off to Capetown for Government use. — Though the benevolent intention of Government to fur- nish a market for the farmers has not altogether been fu hilled, since the latter think the price given not a suf- ficient reward for their trouble in raising and dehvering the corn, jet by some arrangement, it is hoped, that the settlement in Mossel-Bay will be of use, in affording the means of disposing of the produce of the country. The coasts of the bay are bushy, and aloes grow in great abundance on the surrounding hills. Formerly the ex- tract of aloes, used in medicine, fetched a price sufficient- ly high to make it a lucrative trade ; but at present, since the article has become more common, and the price fallen, it appears to be not worth the farmer's while to attend to it, as we were informed by several per- sons inhabiting the neighbourhood. About three in the afternoon we left Mossel-Bay, and went on to Hartenbosch. The road was bad, and Jed through a forest of large bushes of various kinds, among which we started some wild peacocks, and a bushbock antelope ; but it was impossible to follow them, the i;reat quantity of thorn-bush, Indian figs, and other prick- y plants rendering the thicket almost impenetrable. We passed by another farm belonging to Mr. Alexander, lying between low round hills clothed with aloes and low wood. At Hartenbosch, we found friendly faces, and excel- lent quarters for the night. Mr. Meyer and his whole family gave us the kindest reception, and seemed much pleased with our visit. They were amused with the fire-box, drawing utensils, portable WTitIng desk, ten- bladed knife, and other English w^are in our possession. We visited also an old carpenter, who has lived here many years. The furniture in Mr. Meyer's house, made of stink-wood, yellow-wood, and other curious woods, does him great credit, both as to beauty and strength. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 137 As it turned out a very boisterous evening, we thank- ed God for having found shelter in the house of so good a man. He hoped the unfavourable state of the wea- ther would detain us, and give him more of our com- pany. l/)th. When we awoke in the morning, the sky was covered with black clouds, and it lightened and thunder- ed much. At eight it cleared up, though the thunder continued to roar all round the horizon. Our friendly host, at breakfast, gave us an account of the many wild beasts that haunt the woods and bushy coasts of the bay, where they have good cover. Tygers and wolves now and then commit depredations ; wild buffaloes are sometimes seen ; but wild dogs are numerous and most to be dreaded. A wolf hunts only at night, h cowardly, and may be guarded against by various means ; but the wild dogs go in troops, and hunt night and day. They attack every living animal, and the '' dread of man" is but slight upon them. Mr. Meyer related, that if they have killed a tame animal, they will quit it on being at- tacked by man, but not if their prey is wild game. Not long ago, a troop of them hunted a rehbock into his neighbour's yard. The farmer sallied forth with his gun to drive off the pursuers, and secure the fugitive for his own table, but was instantly attacked by the dogs, and his life with difficulty saved by his people. Porcu- pines are numerous; serpents creep into the poultry- yards and houses and do much mischief. Our host get- ting up in the dark, and walking into thq hall, felt some- thing hke a rope about his legs. On calling for a light, he discovered it to be a yellow serpent. Had he acci- dentally trod upon it, he would have been bitten by the venomous reptile. About nine o'clock, we took leave of the family. No where have we yet met with a more cordial reception than at Hartenbosch. We entered a kloof between hills moderately high, intersected by charming little glens and coves, fill- ed with luxuriant bushes and many aloes. A pleasant brook ran winding down the vale. But we had not long enjoyed the delightful scenery among these interesting 18 138 JOURNAL OF A and ever-varying hills and dales, before black clouds came sweeping along their summits with lightning, thun- der, and rain. When the rain ceased, and the sun began again to shine upon us, the air was filled with millions of small flying ants, each having four wings. Many fell upon our clothes, and stuck to the w^et coverings of the wagons, while the main army passed over us, in appear- ance like a cloud of dust. From the hills, we descend- ed into a grassy plain with a ridge of higher mountains before us. On a peak in the fore-ground stood two re» markable rocks, shaped so as to resemble decayed cas- tles. Mr. Melville and Stein followed some wild pea- cocks for some time, but in vain. After fording the Lit- tle Sout Revier in two places, we halted on the banks of the great Brak Revier. Here we saw our own oxen feeding, having advanced no farther towards George^ and we were glad to find them in good condition. From hence we sent our old groom, Leonhard, to Mr. De Watt's house, w^here oxen had been ordered for us, to desire that they might meet us on the banks of the river. The old man gave such an account of the dignity of his employers, that the honest farmer was soon awed into compliance, and sent his son with the beasts, with an apology for not waiting upon us in person. This was the first time that the requisition for relays had perfectly succeeded. The vale, in which we had halted, pleased us much, and appeared to have many requisites for a settlement. But besides being occupied, we w^ere informed, that in the rainy season it is turned into a lake, by the overflow- ing of the river. In all directions the scenery is beauti- ful. Towards the estuary, the low hills consist of white sand, their tops covered thick with bushes. The state of the tide admitting of our fording the river, we pro- ceeded towards its eastern bank, and ascended the hills- Here the character of the soil seemed to change, and instead of iron and sand-stone, which had followed us from Gnadenthal, the road glistened with bright sil- ver-coloured mica, in small fragments of granite. The quartz was of a bluish hue, the'feldspath brown, and in some stones mixed with hornblend and shoerl. On each VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 159 side of the road are deep glens. Down that to the left, abroad brook hurried swiftly amidst rocky shores, and impenetrable thickets, which rose to the brow of the hill. A smaller stream gHded more gently down the right-hand deeper glen, in which a considerable quantity of large timber shaded its dark recesses. The descent into it was, in many places, almost perpendicular, with rocks richly clothed with beautiful creepers, the crevices affording nourishment to their roots, and to those of a vast variety of shrubs and trees. Our walk up the hill was rendered extremely pleasant, by the view of these natural beauties, and of the hilly country we had left behind. Having gained the summit, we arrived at an extensive, grassy plain, with a distant view of the mountains of George to the north and east. The plain is called Groeneland. At a mean solitary cottage, we quenched our thirst with some butter-milk, and travelled along a smooth road, till an unexpected steep descent seemed to arrest our progress. A rapid brook, fed by numberless small streams, precipitating themselves in cascades, from the steep and rocky banks, rushed wildly through the bottom of the glen. Having overtaken a wagon with fourteen oxen, with a family travelling towards George, and halting near the descent, a consultation was held, and Leonhard des- patched with a horse to try the depth of the ford. The bed of the brook consisted of loose stones, over which the water passed furiously, about three feet in depth. Being no courtiers, neither party strove to take prece- dence of the other, but each offered to its new friends the honour of a first plunge, and as we had arrived last, we submitted to remain spectators of the extraordinary manner in which their wagon reeled from side to side through the flood, when we likewise ventured in, and got safe to shore. The thunder-showers of last night had considerably increased the waters of the brook, but the tide coming in, had now swelled it into the ap~ pearance of a large river, farther down the valley. Having a desire to see the missionary institution call- ed Hoogte Kraal, under the superintendency of the 140 JOURNAL OP A Reverend Mr. Pacalt, sent out by the Missionary Society in London, we left the above-mentioned party to proceed alone to George, and turned to the right. The ascent from the brook led us to another grassy plain, intersected by two narrow and rocky glens, by which we arrived about six in the evening at Hoogte Kraal. We were received with much friendly attention by Mr. Pacalt, but not hav- ing a house spacious enough to harbour so large a party, he proposed that we should put down our mattresses in his chapel, after the usual evening-service. This, how- ever, did not begin till nine o'clock, to give the Hotten- tots time to return from their work in the neighbouring farms. Meanwhile, the time was agreeably spent in conversation. At nine, the people were called together by the sound of a cow's horn, blown by a maid-servant, in place of a bell. About a hundred men and women attended. The men and women sit separate, as in most foreign churches, on benches, and are addressed from a table and desk, as with us. The chapel is a temporary building, with one door at the gable-end. By a judicious arrangement, therefore, on leaving it, the women go out first, then the men, and the minister follows. The ser- vice consisted of two hymns, an exposition of a portion of scripture, which this evening was the beginning of our Saviour's sermon on the mount, a prayer, and a concluding hymn. The voices of the congregation were excessively loud, and the tunes sung some of the most lively now in use in some chapels in England, but, both in their character and the manner of singing them, bid- ding defiance to all solemnity and good taste. After Mr. Pacalt had spoken about two minutes, a woman began to make a strange tremulous noise. Supposing her to be suddenly seized with illness, I was surprised to find no one ready to help and lead her out, till her neighbours, catching the infection, the noise spread throughout the whole assembly, the men uttering deep groans. In his prayer, the missionary affectionately remembered us, and we were sorry to be so much disturbed, by the con- tinuance of these jarring sounds. On expressing our astonishment at the disturbance thus occasioned to the service, Mr. Pacalt informed us, that it had been con- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 141 sidered as a sign of conviction, by the power of the Word. But supposing even that true conviction of sin might, in some, produce this effect, who does not see, that insincerity may easily adopt such external marks, to gam the good opinion of men, whose piety and truth beu)g unsuspected, are willing to beheve others incapa- ble of so great a fraud. Feeling as I do for the honour of the cause we are all equally eager to promote, and highly respecting the efforts made by missionaries of every denomination, though differing from us in forms, and perhaps in opinions, as to minor points, I would humbly submit to the consideration of the directors of all missionary institutions, whether it would not be well to avoid every thing that needlessly gives occasion to the evil-minded to ridicule or oppose our labours. We have reason to take the apostle's frequent warnings to heart, that we may not " let our good be evil spoken of." 16th. At^ter breakfast, Mr. Pacalt proceeded to show us the settlement, which is as yet but small. The cotta- ges are placed in regular rows. The gardens are well laid out, and the Hottentots, both by precept and exam- ple, taught diligently to attend to the rearing of garden- produce of various kinds; but there are no trees, nor any plantations or nurseries. Indeed, the elevated situation of the place, and the nature of the soil, is said to be unfavourable to the groAvth of trees, the shade of which, however, is an almost essential requisite in an Af- rican summer. Mr. Pacalt has a small house of two rooms. His la- bour is great. Every day he keeps school, and meets the congregation in the evening, being without an assis- tant, and having the direction and management of all the outward concerns of the establishment. He was now building a smithy. Our Hottentots having suffered the oxen to go astray, some of us visited the people in their kraals, and con- versed with them in a friendly way. Wild dogs have lately done much harm in this neighbourhood. When we were ready to set off, a Berg-adder, reported to be one of the most venomous of serpents, appeared under «he oxen, and was killed. She was about two feet long, 142 JOURNAL OF A beautifully marked with a double row of multangular spots down the back, and underneath, of a silver-gray colour. After an hour's ride across the desert, we arrived at the town of George, and immediately proceeded to the house of the landdrost, Mr. Van Kervel. He was absent, but soon returned from accompanying Mr. George Rex, an English gentleman, who possesses a large farm in Plettenberg Bay, called Melkhout Kraal. Having presented Colonel Bird's letter to the landdrost, we conversed some time on the particular business for which we had undertaken the journey. He expressed the greatest readiness to render us every service in his power, and a wish that we might find some land to suit our purpose within his district. He advised us to look at a spot in Plettenberg Bay, called Jackal's Kraal, which, though rejected by Dr. Van der Kemp, as not sufficiently large, might yet suit usy and under cultiva- tion, be made a fit dwelling for a Christian Hottentot congregation of about five hundred persons, having also the convenience of conveyance by water between the bay and Capetown. After some consultation, we resolved to take the land- drost's advice. He offered every faciHty to enable us to perform the journey; proposing also, that we should stay at his house till Monday morning, that he might send messages to the Veldcornets, both in Plettenberg Bay and in the Lange Kloof, to furnish us with oxen at the different stations, and prevent delay. We determined accordingly to spend another day with this worthy man, of whose excellent character we had heard many a true report ; far short, however, of what we found it to be. In the afternoon, he invited several friends to meet us, with whom we spent a very pleasant evening. The landdrost being a great lover of music, I did not want much entreaty to play for him many of Haydn's and Mozart's compositions, which, though familiar to me, were new to him, and seemed to afford him great delight. When the company had retired, we took a walk to see the new church now building, after a design of Mr. Petersen, the Government Surveyor. The outer walls VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 143 and roof were finished. It will be a handsome structure in the Grecian style, and contain from a thousand to fifteen hundred people, but without a steeple, on ac- count of the high winds, or rather, the low state of the town-purse. The clergyman's house will be placed on one, and the school on the other side of the church, forming a handsome range of buildings. 17th. Being Sunday, we prepared to go to church. Service is now performed in a farm-house, the inner walls being taken out, so as to form a spacious room, holding about two hundred people. In the morning, the whole country was enveloped in a thick fog, but it dispersed during the forenoon. We accompanied the landdrost in his travelling wagon, drawn by four horses, to the temporary church, and found an assistant, reading a sermon to about sixty hearers. It was a dry discussion of doctrinal points, with an attempt, in the usual way, to prove the doc- trine of particular election and reprobation, which tended but little to edification. The reader, however, concluded with an extempore prayer, in a strain of humility and true christian charity, which seemed to proceed from his heart. We regretted, therefore, the more, that he was not left to preach the doctrine of sal- vation by faith in the merits of Jesus Christ, the Saviour of all repenting sinners, but obliged to unfurl the banner of a party, in reading a controversial discourse. The concluding hymn was accompanied on an organ, much out of tune. After service, we took a walk in the gar^ den, and on our return, ascending the foot of the moun- tain in the wagon, visited the woods on its declivityj ad- miring the luxuriant 2;rowth of many large timber-trees. George is a new district, town, and drosty, settled by Sir J. Cradock, when Governor of the Cape; Zwellen- dam having been divided into two separate districts, each governed by alanddrost, Heemraaden, and other officers. The town has about one hundred inhabitants. The houses are two stories high, having an " erker," or bow- window over the door. They stand detached from each other by intermediate gardens, and form a broad street facing the drosty, or landdrost's mansion, from which. ]4i JOURNAL OF A turning in a right angle towards the soutJi, another street has been begun, containing the church, parsonage and school-house. The town is watered, rather scantily, by the Zw^art Revier, a small stream from the mountains, but Avhich, unlike others, flows both in the dry and rainy season. After dinner, the Reverend Mr. Herold, minister of George, having returned from Uitenhagen, called on the. landdrost, to make a report of his attendance on the five rebellious boors, who were executed last Saturday in that district. He gave a most melancholy account of that event. The han^rman was a black. The halters were too weak, or rather, as some suspected, intentional- ly cut; but no sooner had the delinquents been turned off, and the platform removed, than four of the five fell from the gallows. Having unfortunately been persuaded to believe, that by English custom, a man thus falling- down is free, the poor wretches cried for mercy, and one, addressing the by-standers, exclaimed, that by this acci- dent it was made manifest, that God w^ould not permit them to be put to death. The landdrost. Colonel Cuy- ler, was, however, obliged to let justice take its course, and other halters being procured, they were launched into eternity. The clergyman described them all as well prepared to die, acknowledging the justice of their sen- tence, and appearing truly penitent. Not many specta- tors attended; but their wives and relatives were pre- sent, w4iich is hardly to be explained by the standard of English feeling. No disturbance whatever took place, a party of dra^^oons and the Cape regiment keeping guard. This is said to be the first time that any Afri- can's descendants from Europeans have suffered death for crimes deemed capital in Europe. Government has often extended mercy to such as deserved condign pu- nishment, but it seems only to have had that effect, that the rebels believed no Government to have the courage to take away their lives, for crimes committed against the state. It was, therefore, necessary to make an example, and out of twenty-four condemned to die, five of the most notorious offenders had been selected for the pur- pose. The rest were punished with imprisonment, for- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 145 feiture, or banishment. The Reverend Mr. Herold seemed greatly agitated, and declared, that the impres-- sion made on his mind by so dreadful a catastrophe would not soon be effaced. CHAPTER VIII. Departure from George, Beautiful Scenery. Description of the Defiles of Kaymaii^s Gat and Trekata^kou. Arri- val at Mr. Zaayman^s farm. The Veldcornefs account of tygers. Ford in the Ruygte Valley. Accidents which be- fel some of the party. First view of the Knysna. Arri- val at Melkhout Kraal. Survey of JackaVs Kraal in Plettenberg Bay. Objections of the Hottentots to a set- tlement in that place, 18th, Having despatched our letters to Gnadenthal, with an account of our journey and transactions, since we left Zwellendam, we prepared for our departure. Mr. Van Kervel had provided two spanns, each of fourteen strong oxen, to bring us across the dreadful defiles be- tween George and Plettenberg Bay. He also furnished itie with an order for relays as far as Uitenhagen, and with letters to Mr. Rex^ and a list of places in our route. To Mr. Zaayman also, a farmer, at whose house we were to spend the first night, directions were sent to put us forward on our return from JackaPs Kraal, in case we took the road over the Duivelskop into the Lange Kloof. Our own spann of twelve oxen, which w^e had brought hither from Zwellendam, were left, by his advice, at George, as they would serve us on our return, but were too weak to be of any use in crossing the moun- tains. At eight o'clock we took leave of this worthy man. I have seldom, if ever, met with a character so justly de- serving all the praise bestowed upon him, for the exer- cise of those qualities which distinguish a good magis- trate, master, and friend. Not long ago he lost an amia- ble partner, of whom the servants and slaves in the fa- 10 146 JOURNAL Ot A mily spoke with the sincerest esteem and tears of regrefr To us he behaved Hke a father, felt interested in the success of our undertaking, and it would be ingratitude in the extreme, not to add our tribute of thankful praise to the general voice. To Hottentots and slaves he con- ducted himself not with that severe, repelling air, as- sumed by so many, who think themselves belonging to a higher class of beings, but with friendly condescension, calling forth both their reverence and love. Our Hot- tentots spoke often with gratitude of the goodness of the landdrost of George. In his house, peace and order reigned, and his friends and relatives, among whom was his nephew, Mr. Du Toit, treated us with the greatest civility. On taking leave, he repeated his pressing in- vitation, on our return, again to make his hospitable man- sion our home. The farmer, to whom the oxen belonged, and the Veldcornet, accompanied us, to lend assistance in passing through the defiles of Kayman's Gat, (the crocodile's cove,) and Trekata^kou, (the maiden's ford,) by which we had to enter Piettenberg bay. Early in the morn- ing, thick fogs had again spread themselves over the mountains, and we began to fear an upleasant day, and the loss of th^ romantic views Mr. Van Kervel had de- scribed as awaiting us in our way. But the sun dis- persed the mists, and about noon the atmosphere became remarkably clear. We were extremely delighted with the beautiful woods and glens, upon which we soon en- tered, and pronounced the environs of George, flat as its own situation appears, to be as interesting and romantic as any part of the country we had yet seen. In about an hour's time, passing by the farm to which our oxen belonged, they all on a sudden turned short round, pre- ferring to graze at their awn quarters, rather than to toil throuoh the defiles before us. It was with some difficulty that they were made to proceed. Our road lay in a line nearly parallel to the high range of mountains, which here take a direction towards the Indian ocean. After crossing several pleasant and well- wooded vales, we reached Kayman's Gat, and found the description given of it by the landdrost by no means VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 147 exaggerated. The view of the glen is both magnificent and terrific. On leaving the wagons to walk down the steep, we began to fear for their safety, and our appre- hensions were not lessened by Hstening to stories, told on the road by the Hottentots, of misfortunes experienced by travellers, whose wagons were broken, and their cattle killed in the descent, especially in stormy weather. At first, the road slopes down gradually through a thicket, with larger trees interspersed. A deep ravine to the right receives the brook Zwart Revier, the same which passes by the drosty at George, which, rushing over precipitous rocks below the road, and out of sight, causes a great roaring of hidden waters, and adds much to the grandeur of the scene. It is not so much its steep- ness, w^hich renders the passage of Kayman's Gat so dangerous, as the extreme unevenness of the road, if road that may be called, where, as yet, art has not as- sisted nature, and the traveller must pass over rocks, in steps of from one to two feet perpendicular height, the wagons bouncing down, reeling from side to side, and but for the management of Hottentots accustomed to such service, in continual danger of oversetting. They support the w^gon, by thongs fastened to each side^ pulling with all their might, either to the right or left, as otherwise, in several places, the wagons, with all their contents, and the poor beasts staggering before them-, would be precipitated into the abyss beneath. Long be- fore we had reached the bottom of the glen, we were con- vinced, that our own oxen would not have been able to perform this service. The poor animals seemed often ijutte confused; the shaft-oxen being almost thro^wn down, the wagon nearly falling upon them, and the rest of the spann sometimes hurried forward to draw, and theii again kept back to prevent mischief It being ebb-tide. we passed the Kayman's RevJer, which flows through the glen into the Indian ocean, without difficulty, and gave a few moments' rest to our frightened cattle, upon whose strength we were going to draw still more largely, to work our wagons up the rocky acclivities of the east- ,ern bank. The view of the glen from below is majestic. The steeps on both sides arc clothed with a.nable foresU 148 JOURNAL OF A Strata of red rock, shelving down the western bank, form a singular contrast with the Hvely green of the bushes on the slopes between them. A deep chasm or rent receiving the Zwart Revier, as above described, di- vides the bank, and forms the Gat, or crocodile's cove, in the dark recesses of which a small water-fall glistens, by the admission of some faint light from above. It is said, that formerly crocodiles were found here in great numbers, making this chasm their chief place of resort. But they have long since withdrawn, and left to man full possession. Now and then, a leguan is seen, and the woods and glens afford pretty safe haunts for various descriptions of wild beasts. Several glens meet here, all filled with wood, through which mountain-torrents swell the revier. It must be crossed at low water, by which the time of our departure from George had been measured. The eastern bank was, if possible, more steep and rug- ged in its ascent than the western. The baggage-wagon took the lead, but having laboured hard for about two hundred paces, the oxen refused to stir another step. No shouts of the drivers, cracking of whips, or hard blows, would make the poor dispirited beasts move forward ; but when farther urged, they turned sharp round, and threw the whole spann into such confusion, that there was some danger of the wagon rolling down and drag- gmg the shaft-oxen backwards. It was therefore neces- sary to bring up twelve of the second spann to their as-- sistance, and after a long time spent in unyoking the former, placing them again in order, and adding the latter. It afforded a singular sight to see twenty-six oxen, with all their might working the wagon up the lavers ol rock, of which the road consisted ; every five minutes resting to take breath. After the heavy wa^on had i;eached the summit, bolh spanns were sent down to ietch up the travelhng wagon, which, being lighter, was more easily accomphshed. It is impossible to describe all the romantic glens and singular scenery, with which this region abounds. Ihetarmer, notwithstanding the excessive fatigue his i^mk had suffered, after short rest determined to pro- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 149 ceed, without an outspann at Barbier's Kraal, as pro- posed. Our road lay now through a thick wood, in which many a mighty tree seems to have yielded to the axe. Bushrope, or Bavianstau, a species of creeper, re- sembhng a rope, grows here in abundance, and nearly envelops some of the loftiest trees, to the destruction of their growth and beauty. In the woods, a number of Hottentots and slaves were busily employed in sawing, and preparing planks, beams, and shingles. In about an hour, we arrived at Trekata^kou, the second grand defile, justly dreaded by travellers. The descent from the west, though rugged and steep, is not attended with more difficulty than many others in this mountainous country. The view towards the mass of hills to the north, is remarkably grand and beautiful. .On these occasions. Brother Schmitt always attended the wagons, and, depending on his skill, precaution, and advice, we could rest satisfied, that every care was taken to prevent mischief, and overthrow. After cross- ing a rapid mountain-stream at the bottom of the glen, rushing through the dark recesses of a wild wood, over a stony bed, and forming, to the left of the road, a large pool under some horizontal strata of overhanging rock, crowned with beautiful trees and shrubs, we beheld the eastern bank with some degree of dismay. The road ascended with a steepness, which seemed to baffle the attempt of any beasts to draw up the lightest weight. The travelling-wagon, however, reached the top after great exertion, but the other required both spanns to be yoked to it. The poor exhausted oxen made more ob- jections to put forth their remaining strength at this place, than at Kayman's Gat, and shouts and lashes seemed to have lost their effect. They turned round, entangled themselves with the tackle, and more than once, ten or twelve of them were obliged to be unyoked, to bring them again into order. We were above an hour working the wagon up the cliffs. This afforded time for some examination of the stone of which the mountain is formed. Towards the bottom of the defile, huge blocks of granite lie dispersed upon the surface, but higher up, the chief stone is sand-stone, 150 JOURNAL OF A with iron and quartz, as usual. The granite is beauti- ful, with a great quantity of bright, silver-coloured mica, in large flakes, and in some instances chrystallized. The feldspath and quartz are much decomposed. Iron has inserted itself, and seems to be the cause both of speedy decomposition, and of the division of some of the blocks into irregular strata. When protected within the bow- els of the earth, this species of granite may be of a more durable quality, and some of the larger blocks at the bottom of the glen w^re so hard, that my hammer and cold chissels made but little impression upon them. Of what the strata of rocks beyond the pool might consist, I was not able to discover, their surface being covered with red lichen, moss, creepers and ivy. After sunset, w^e closed the adventurous business of the day, ai^l arrived at Mr. Zaayman's farm. The houses, or hovels, are wretchedly constructed, but the inhabitants were friendly. The farmer and several other men came out and received us with much civihty, shaking hands, as is the custom of the country, and bid- -ding us welcome in the Dutch atyle. Our tent was pitched in the field, and we were soon provided with a good supper, being our only meal on this day. While it was preparing, Mr. Melville went w^th me, to pay a visit to the farmer in his dwelling, braving the attack of an host of dogs, to w^hose cowardly barking we could pay no attention, having carefully to mind our balance on the stepping stones, over which v/e passed through the deep mud and filth surrounding the premises. We sat some time with the family, the V^eldcornet, and some visiters, and obtained much information on various subjects con- nected with our future progress. My fire-box was also exhibited, to the utter astonishment of all present. Be- fore we went to rest, we returned thanks to God our Preserver, for having safely brought us thus far, through a dangerous path, which to some has even proved fatal. We were favoured with fine, dry weather, without which few travellers will venture to cross the defiles of Kayman's Gat and Trekata'kou. 19th. We rose before sunset, vainly hoping to reach Melkhout Kraal, Mr. Rex's house on the Knysna, before VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 151 dark. In an hour and a half, we arrived at tlie Veld- cornet's house. He had accompanied us the whole way, and now invited us to partake of his breakfast. This consisted of excellent white bread and butter, sweet milk, wild honey of delicious flavour, peaches and pears, served up in the old patriarchal style. His house and premises lie on an eminence, without any trees or gardens about them. Having lately shot four tygers^ he exhibited their skins. The largest measured five feet six inches, from the nose to the root of the tail, the tail itself four feet. It had seized a young heifer by the throat, whose bellowing and dying groans brought the^ Veldcornet to the spot, when he shot the ferocious ani- mal through the body. The skin was much injured, but beautiful in the brightness of its colours. Here we saw, for the first time, a proof of the devasta- tion made by the Caffres during the late war, in the ruins of the farm-house, of which the walls only were yet standing. The inhabitants, fearing a repetition of the incursions of that restless people, have not ventured to rebuild their houses, and are now satisfied to dwell in huts, httle better than those of the Hottentots. The Veldcornet's house, however, was clean and respect- able. From hence our road lay along the declivity of a hill : the mountains with their numerous woody glens, follow- ing each other in succession, appeared to great advan- tage till we arrived at the farm of a widow Wyers on the Zwart Revier. The ford over the river used to be at this place, where often the water was so deep, that it proved dangerous to travellers. The new ford, though shorter, has likewise a deep, muddy bed, through which we plunged rather unpleasantly, passed over the hill on which the farm-house is situated, and reached the Ruygte Valley, where the ford across the river is both broad and deep. The wagons were emptied, and their con- tents, as well as ourselves, brought across the stream in a species of canoe, made of one immense tree. The relay-oxen provided for us, being on this side^ were obliged to cross the water, and we were amused by observing the different degrees of courage or fear^ 152 JOURNAL OF A shown bj these sober animals, in choosing their own places to enter it. Some leaped in at once and swam boldly forward. Others, after contemplating one spot, went on to another, till they found one more shallow, which they entered warily : some found themselves de- ceived in the sequel, and had a longer and deeper stream to cross than the more courageous. The delay occasioned by unpacking and repacking the w^agons, was the most annoying part of the business, and it was noon, before we reached Mr. Meeling's farm, where we were hospitably entertained with thick milk, bread, and butter. But here we had nearly met with a serious accident. Sister Schmitt, stepping into the baggage-wagon, slip- ped off the pole, and fell backwards, by which her head received such a severe contusion, that, for a short time, she lost her recollection, and was in much pain. Some relief was afforded by an application of bukku brandy, but her anxiety to proceed made her unwilling to cause delay by staying at this house to be nursed, and we ven- tured to continue our journey down the valley, between low, heathy eminences, for about an hour. The road then led up a steep, barren hill, from the summit of w^hich one of the finest views w'e had yet seen presented itself before us, with a well w^ooded foreground of hili and dale, forming very picturesque scenery. The de- scent was rough, through deep sand, mixed with large stones, which rendered the jolting of the wagon insu"[> portable to Sister Schmitt, who preferred walking down the hill through the W'ood, though the pain in her head required rest. The Gowcomma flows through the val- ley, and the narrow road, rising through a thick wood, runs rather too close to its steep banks, to remove all apprehension of the wagon being precipitated into the stream. We forded this river at a place darkened by the shade of large trees, and in view of some black rocks, through which the water forces its way, and ar- rived safe at the house of Mr. Terblanche, a farmer ot decayed fortune. Ruins of a larger house, than that which he now inhabits, made us suspect, that the Caffres in the late war had destroyed it ; but it seems to have VISIT 1^ SOUTH AFRICA. 153 befen forsaken from other causes. He was much pleas- ed to see some company arrive to cheer hirn in his solitude, and treated us with bread and thick milk. Here we saw that beautiful bird called the green cuckoo, one of the few feathered inhabitants of these lonely woods, where the enlivening song of the nightin- gale and lark is never heard, but merely now and then the monotonous whistle of some painted finch, or the melancholy cooing of a turtle-dove. Leaving this place, we passed along a low hill, re- sembling a huge bank oi* dyke, from whence, to the left, we had a view of a great number of low green hills, in regular rows, not improperly compared by some of us to a succession of long Atlantic waves, made stationary by being converted into land. By a turn of the road, we were unexpectedly treated with a view of the Indian ocean, the estuary of the Knysna, and Mr. Rex's farm at some distance beyond it. A steep hill and marshy plain leads to the ford, which, from the state of the tide, Was now impassable. Shortly before we made halt, Brother Schmitt met with an accident, which might have been even more serious than that which befell his wife. Having left the wagon to fetch some remarkably beautiful scarlet flowers, which had attracted our attention, on venturing to enter it again without stopping the oxen, the fore-wheel went over his right foot, and hurt It con- siderably. Two of our party were now rendered invalids. Yes- terday was a day, when danger was expected. To-day we had no fears. Thus we received a serious but merci- ful warning, that in every situation, and whatever appear- ances may be, we ought not to forget, that we are never safe, but under the protecting care of our heavenly Father. The sufferers, as well as our whole party, wQre thankful, that these accidents had not been such as to prevent our proceeding. The out-spann place was in a romantic situation near the ford ; on all sides enclosed by woody hills, the river flowing at the foot of those to the east. Here Mr. Mel- ville shot a bird, which proved to be a curious species of king-fishen the wings and body beautifully marked in 20 154 JOURNAL OF A black and white. The report of the gun produced one of the finest echoes imaginable. A large fire being soon kindled, Sister Schmitt, with her usual zeal to sacrifice her own convenience to our comforts, which, at least, under present circumstances, deserves once for all to be noticed, insisted on our permitting her to cook supper for us, as we had made no meal all day ; after which, she retired to rest in the wagon. Brother Schmitt obtained considerable relief by bathing his foot in the cold Knysna, by which inflammation was prevented. While we were at supper, and for some time during the early part of the night, we were treated with a hor- rid serenade by wolves on the opposite hill. These crea- tures, as also tygers, are said to be numerous in this woody part of the country. We w^ere not without fears about the safety of the oxen, belonging to the two spanns we had brought, and of those provided as relays by the Veldcornet, according to order, and feeding loose near our encampment. 20th. At one o'clock in the morning, we were roused by our drivers, who were anxious to proceed, as we had the Knysna and another river to cross, before we could reach Mr. Rex's house, both being fordableonly at low w^ater. Our tent was soon struck, and preparations made for our departure, by the light of a large fire. Fording the Knysna required skill in our drivers, for the river was both deep and rapid, and the farmer, therefore, to w^hom the cattle belonged, thought proper to drive them him- self. Having also crossed the second river in safety, we encamped on the opposite bank, between some low bills and a grove of lofty trees, and got a dish of coffee. Our two patients were both much better, for which we gave thanks to God. The morning was clear, and the air re- freshing. The views also toward the estuary of the Knysna delighted us, whenever an opening in the woods and high bushes permitted us to see them. At nine o'clock, we arrived at Melkhout Kraal, and w^ere cordi- ally welcomed by Mr. Rex, to whom Mr. Van Kervel, with his usual kindness and consideration, had already sent notice of our approach. We soon perceived, that it was our worthy host's in- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 155 tention to detain us here as long as he could. Some rest was indeed needful, and Sister Schmitt immediately availed herself of the kind offer of Mr. Rex's lady to let her servants assist us in various household concerns. Mr. Rex found in Mr. Melville's company and conversation, much pleasure and information respecting the measure- ment of land, being himself fond of that science. I was employed chiefly in writing, and a day spent quietly at home seemed to suit the inclination of every one of our party. 21st. The morning was foggy, and threatened rain, but about nine it became clear. A ride to the mouth of the Knysna had been proposed, but we delayed rather too long ; for, by the time we arrived, the fog returned, and by degrees covered the sea and the whole coast, while the inland country remained clear. After our return, the Veldcornet, who was directed to supply oxen to carry us to Jackal's Kraal, came to consult with us about the time of our departure. We now had much difficulty to prevail upon our hospitable host to let us depart in the morning. After dinner, he showed us his gardens, which are at some distance from the dwelling, towards the valley. They are well stocked with a great variety of produce, but no attention has been paid to ornament. 22d. Having at length convinced Mr. Rex, that it was our duty no longer to indulge in the pleasure he pro- posed to give us, by prolonging our stay, but, impressed with great gratitude for the hospitable reception we had met with at his house, to proceed on the business com- mitted to us, he consented, and resolved himself to ac- company us to Jackal's Kraal. His lady having fur- nished Sister Schmitt with a supply of very needful stores and refreshments, we left Melkhout Kraal at ten o'clock, Mr. Rex and his son following us on horseback. When they came up with us, Mr. Rex took a seat in the wagon. The road was uneven, but presented charming views of the surrounding country, and of the woods, which partly crown the summits, and partly adorn the sides of the hills. For some miles, the forest extends from the range of high mountains, forming the 156 JOURNAL OF A northern boundary of the bay, to the seacoast. This region is called the Port. At a place in the wood, where two roads met, Mr. Rex related, that here, during the last invasion of the colony, a party of Caffres surprised some boors with their wives, five of whom they murder- ed in cool blood. One of the women begged hard for the life of her husband. After some consultation, they suddenly seized him and cut him in pieces. They car- ried off one of the women, and kept her for four days. They then sent a message to her husband, demanding two hundred rix-dollars, as a ransom for his wife. Fearing treachery, hie refused to treat with them. Mean-^ while she persisted in her entreaties to be released, which at length they not only granted without ransom, but gave her a safeguard to conduct her home, having treated her w^ell during her stay. The immense forest^ pf Plettenberg Bay are not with- out inhabitants. Elephants, buffaloes, tygers, wolves, and wild boars, having little to dread from that grand destroyer, Man, find here shelter. They seem all to have chosen their ground, some preferring the coast, and others the mountains. Thus, if not followed into their haunts, they are not often seen by the traveller, espe- cially during the day, and w^e were never amused by the gambols of tygers or leopards, near the road. A few partridges were put up by Mr. Melville's dog, and one or two of them shot; but passing through these woods, nothing is heard of that cheerful chirping and singing of birds, that busy hum of flying insects, with other symp- toms of animated nature, which delight and inspirit the traveller through the forests of England and the European continent. We crossed several brooks, running, all but one, from the mountains towards the sea. This perverse stream is called Samson's Revier, and taking its rise on some high land near the coast, runs rapidly towards the hills, where it is taken up by the Kierbooms Revier, and turn- ed back. Its waters were remarkably clear and sweet, and whether from this cause, or feeling some interest in its capricious course and opposition to general rule, we here replenished our stock of fresh water. On the banks VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 157 t^f one of the above-mentioned brooks, we found the larger species of bukku, one of the most aromatic, medicinal plants in the country, and justly esteemed for its healing properties. Its leaves steeped in brandy or vinegar, and the bottle placed in the heat of the sun, emit an unctious juice, by which the fluid is rendered as thick as honey, and applied particularly for the he;^Iing of contusions, sores, and all external complaints. The Hottentots also use it for inward hurts, by mixing a spoonful of it with waroi i^yater. Its leaves are lancet-shaped and serrated. After leaving the woods, we passed oyer an uninterest- ing, barren country, and were rather alarmed by per- ceiving, what the height of the trees had hidden from our view, that thick black clouds, covering the western horizon, were fast following us, thunder muttering at a distance. In a short time, a violent wind arose, which filled the air with clouds of dust. The backs of the oxen and the wagons were covered with it. Soon after it be- gan to lighten, thunder, and rain, and almpst made us fear, that we should be obliged to give up the thoughts of visiting Jackal's Kraal to-day, and be forced to seek shelter. We persevered, however, and by the tirqe we had reached the heights, which overlook the vale bear- ing this name, the rain ceased. The sudden chetnge in the appearance of the country afforded us much pleasure. From an insipid flat, it swelled into hills, with woody glens sloping down towards the vale. As it was now too late to examine the spot proposed for an establishment, a consultation was held ; the result of which was, that we would not proceed to the next farm, but, to save time, descend with our wagons into the vale, and there encamp for the night, though the weather threatened to be rather boisterous, and the appearance of the situation below was wild, resembling a haunt of beasts of prey in undisputed possession. Mr. Rex offered to accompany us down the hill, but having business at a farm, several miles from hence, much as we delighted in his company, and profited hy his conversation, we could not accept of a service, which would have put him to much inconvenience. Here, therefore^,, though with sensations of regret, we took iSft JOURNAL OP A leave of our worthy and generous conductor. The Veldcornet, Mr. Van Huyste) n, accompanied us into the valley. Previous to our arrival at Melkhout Kraal, Mr. Rex iad made application to Government for the possession of Jackal's Kraal. Though no answer had been return- ed, I should, as in other instances, have considered this circumstance as a sufficient bar against occupation on our part, not wishing in the smallest degree to interfere with the plans of any individual in the colony, in fixing upon a tract of land for a settlement of the Brethren's Mission. But Mr. Rex generously declared, that he not only gladly quitted all claim to Jackal's Kraal, where he had intended only to put up a small cottage, as a sheltering place in the hunting season, but rejoiced in the hopes of seeing the land cultivated, and a settlement of Christian Hottentots formed in his neighbourhood. This declaration was now solemnly repeated, and made us de- termine to examine the situation, with a view to a mis- sionary establishment. The descent into the vale was not too steep, but find- ing no path, we pulled through the long grass and bush- es, over stony or marshy ground, with some difficulty and uncertainty, till having reached a spot near a grove of tall trees, rising out of thick under-wood, we pitched our tent on a dry place, surrounded with high bushes, which served us for fuel. Here we made two large fires, both for culinary purposes, and to frighten away any wild beasts which might be disposed to visit us during the night, this place having been reported to be the haunt of a great number of ferocious animals. But, as usually \€ the case, the love of frightful tales had probably created monsters in the reporter's imagination, for we neither saw nor heard any thing to give notice of their presence, and our cattle walked about the bushes, picking their food, without molestation. Yet as caution was necessa- ry in a place unknown, and to appearance admirably suited to be a dwelling-place for wild creatures, we men went in a body, while it was yet light, to view the spot where formerly the old Hottentot captain Jackal, froni ^wbom the place derives its name, had his dwelling. Siff- VISIT TO SOtJTtt AFRICA, 159^ ter Schmitt and the Hottentots remained in the camp^ and prepared supper- The captain's house was built upon a rising ground on the south side of the valley, probably of very perishable materials, for, besides a few broken fragments, resembling the remnants of uprights or rafters, nothing was to be seen, but some traces of a square field or ga,rden. Dark clouds hovering about the horizon, seemed to threaten a rainy night. It lightened much, the wind rose, and some rain fell, but besides a little annoyance from the flapping about of the curtains of our tent, which we had not sufficiently secured against the wind, we gpent a quiet night in this solitary wilderness, under the protection of our Almighty Preserver, and rose early in the morning to praise Him for His mercies, and for Mie return of fine weather, so desirable and needful for our present undertaking. 23d. We commenced our survey according to a plan agreed on last night. Brother Schmitt and Stein went with me to captain Jackal's hill. From hence we pro- ceeded to a narrow kloof out of which the rivulet flows* On leaving the kloof, it buries itself under an assemblage of stones, from which, at about an hundred yards dis- tance, it emerges in sufficient force, even in this dry sea- son, to supply a mill. A broad path, made by wood- cutters, afforded a convenient passage into the kloof. The eastern sun shone with great brightness into it, gilding the banks on both sides. They rise steep to a considerable height, and are clothed with a romantic wood of every species of tree growing in the country, innumerable flowering plants and shrubs covering the ground. Here and there masses of rock peep through the surrounding foliage. The rivulet rushes rapidly through the shady grove, over a stony bed, and we fol- lowed its course to a place where it forms a deep pool under a perpendicular rock. From the accidental posi- tion of the broken fragments of stone, piled up in order at its foot, this rock might, at some distance, be taken for a mass of basaltes. The water filled the whole space, and obliged us to ascend the hill. Having, however, satisfied ourselves as to the supply of water to be gained 160 JOURNAL OF A from the rivulet, we returned to the tent, much pleased with the discoveries we had made. We made a favour- able report of them at an excellent breakfast, for which,, through Mr. Rex's goodness, we had been provided with every requisite, sweet milk, fresh butter, and good wheaten bread, and a partridge, shot by Mr. Melville. On reading the portions of scripture appointed for this day, rendered remarkable for being the first day on which we could execute part of the commission given to us, we were excited to fervent prayer, that the glory of the Lord might till this place also, if it be His gracious will, that here a settlement should be formed for the ga- thering together of a congregation of believers from among the Hottentot nation. To us it appeared in va- rious respects an eligible situation, though rejected by Dr. Van der Kemp, as not sufficiently large, and by our Hottentots, as not possessing sweet grass. There is land enough for a congregation of about five hundred per- sons, and probably the soil might be so much improved, as to produce every necessary article of subsistence, though some place of change, at certain seasons of the year, would be required for the cattle. Conveyance from the Cape is rendered easy, by ships sailing to Plet- tenberg Bay. After breakfast, the Veldcornet returned to us with Mr. P. a farmer living at the entrance of the vale, at whose house he had taken up his night's lodging ; and we set out, to make further inquiries into the nature of the soil, and other properties of the unoccupied land. Our horses were very lame, and stumbled grievously among the rushes and brushwood, through which we had to pass. We ascended the hill by a gulley, which appeared to us like the narrow bed of a water-course, but, by the re- port of the Veldcornet, was made by wild boars. Part of the ascent has good land, some fit for corn, and some for pasture, but the flat summit, which stretches far away towards the sea, is unfruitful. We passed along the edge of the hill, the farmer describing e\ery part of the vale in view, which he pronounced to be in many places fit for cultivation, especially for gardens and corn, the kloofs descending on the opposite side being well VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 161 stored with wood, useful both for building and fuel. We now directed our course towards Mr. P.'s farm. From an opposite kloof, a rivulet furnishes a constant supply of water, sufficient to irrigate his garden, and forming a natural division between the two properties. From the heights above the farm, there is a fine view of Plettenberg Bay, the western point of which is marked by a promontory and small island, the resort of a vast number of seals; and the eastern, by a high, conical hill, called the Grenadier's cap. Several lower peaks appear to rise at its foot. We noticed here a gigantic species of a plant, from its singular form very properly called the chandelier. The specimen I obtained had twenty shoots, proceeding, in a direction nearly horizon- tal, from its centre, each a foot long, with a beautiful scarlet flower at its point. Its root is a bulb. A smaller species is common all over the waste. Having alighted, we walked to the house, along a gul- ley filled with fragments of a soft iron-stone, porous, and of various colours, brought off the hills by torrents. Some of it was flaky, full of larger or smaller cavities, filled with fine yellow ochre. Sand-stone and quartz lie, as usual, in abundance upon the surface of the ground. Mr. P. and his old mother received us with civility, and set before us what their house afforded, teidi-water^ bread and butter, and preserved quinces of excellent flavoun The hills opposite the farm are intersected by woody kloofs, and rendered picturesque by ledges of gray rock, with intermediate bushes. We were informed, that they swarm with apes and baboons, as likewise with tygers, wolves, and other wild animals; and though the latter seldom approach the dwellings, yet the cries of the poor antelopes and other game, seized and worried by them among the rocks and woods, are frequently heard below. Mr. P. walked with us into the garden, which is large and plentifully stocked with all "kinds of fruits, apples, Eears, peaches, quinces, oranges, and lemons, which he as some trouble to guard against the monkey tribes in- festing the neighbouring woods. When we first met, Mr. P. seemed shy and cautious, made the worst of every thing relating to Jackal's Kraal, 21 162 JOURNAL OF A that we might consider it as unfit for a missionary star tion; but hy degrees, he softened, and was ready to give ! every encouragement, hoping, that if a settlement was made, Hottentots would come into the country, and hands be obtained to assist in the farms. At present, the (ew Hottentot inhabitants are chieflj employed in cutting and preparing timber. Hitherto, Mr. P. has used the kraal for pasture-ground, as being an uninhabited spot, and as he would not wish to lose that convenience, he may be forgiven for viewing intruders with some suspicion. He showed his good sense and candour in so soon forsaking selfish views and prejudices. Men who have lived all their hfetime in so sequestered a state, remote from society, consider, of course, their own affairs as of the first con- sequence, to which they have been accustomed to sacri- fice every thing within their reach, not having discernment sufficient to judge of the relative importance of human concerns. Religion is generally quite out of the question, and its propagation considered as a secondary, if not wholly unnecessary business. The Veldcornet accompanied us through the valley to our little camp. On our way, we observed much good land, fit for gardens and pasture. A vast quantity of palmite covers the banks of the rivulet, which is always considered as a sign of good and rich soil, but it is very difficult to eradicate, having a strong tap-root, running deep into the marshy ground. Brother Stein, who had walked forward, called to us to observe a large bird of prey he had driven off a carcass, which, on coming up, we found to be that of a young kid, just killed, and its entrails torn out. The bird was not much intimidated, for he alighted at a short distance, from whence he ob- served us undismayed, ready to return to his prey ; and as we had neither the means, nor the right to prevent it, we left him to reap the benefit of his acquisition. Upon one of the bushy eminences to the right, I found the small aloe still in bloom, three weeks after they had left off showing any flowers at Groenekloof After our return to the camp, Mr. Melville and I continued our ride into the kloof, which we had visited this morning, and as the VlSl't TO SOUTH APRldA* 1(53 ^un was how at its height, the appearance of the wood^ water, and rocks, was extremely beautiful. Sister Schmitt meanwhile had not been idle, but after iVriting a letter, went with the Hottentots to the western side of the valley, and discoverefd, among the bushes, several pools of clear water, which she now advised us to visit. This was done, arid we were convinced, that there is water sufficient for every purpose, and in every season, to serve a town of four or five hundred inhabit- ants. We now took leave of JackaPs Krall, with thanks to the landdrost, for having made us acquainted, both with Mr. Rex, and with a situation not unworthy of consi- deration in the choice of a missionary settlement in this colony, notwithstanding the objections raised by our Hottentots, who ever prefer the rearing and tending of cattle, to labour in the field, and the rearing of crops. CHAPTER IX. Deparlure from JackaPs KraaL View of Plettenberg J^ay. Restless night. Passing over the Paerdekop Mountain into the Lange Kloof Wild Scenery. Dangerous road. Delay at fClip Revier. Receipt of letters from Ensrland. Enter the Lange Kloof farms of Well-gelegen^ Ungelegen^ ahd Kliphuebel. Mr. Fereira^s rencontre with a tyger. Our worthy friend, Mr. Rex, in proposing to detain us some days longer at his house, had informed us, that we might gain time by not returning to Mr. Zaayman's, and going over the Duivel's kop into the Lange Kloof, but by crossing the niountains by the Paerdekop, which, in a fine season, like the present, might be easily effected. We resolved, therefore, to take his advice, and proceed towards the Paerdekop. After reaching the top of the western boundary of Jackal's Kraal, our road lay over a flat, dismal country, to the Veldcornet's house, seen through an opening between low hills. On the road, a slave, attempting to get on the box^ without stopping the i64 JaiTKNAL OF A wagon, fell, and the fore-wheel passing over part of bis leg, hurt him severely. Bukku brandy being repeated- ly applied by Brother Stein, the pain was soon relieved, and inflammation prevented. Mr. Melville had gone in quest of game, and shot two partridges, which, though in itself of not much impor- tance, proved, under present circumstances, a most ac- ceptable gift, our stock of fresh provisions being consum- ed. The Veldcornet's house is pleasantly situated at the meeting of three valleys, and notice being given of our arrival, we were kindly received, and treated w^ith a well-dressed plain dinner. Mrs. Van Huysteyn after- wards presented Sister Schmitt with two cocks, a large square bottle of wild honey, and some other useful arti- cles, and her husband accompanied us for some miles. His father, a venerable old Dutch gentleman, had been at Zeyst in Holland, and seemed pleased to see friends belonging to the same fraternity. Having forded the Wittedrift, a brook running into the Kierbooms Revier, we began to ascend the heights^ from which we had a full view of its course, and of Plettenberg Bay. The vessel, regularly employed to convey timber to the Cape, lay at anchor not far from the shore. The bay, however, being exposed to the southeast, from whence the wind generally blows with violence, makes it unsafe for any vessel to He in it longer than necessity requires: otherwise, it affords great con- venience to the inhabitants, to have communication with the Cape by water. The same advantage would like- wise attend the possession of Jackal's KraaL While Mr. Melville was vainly following .one of those cunning birds, the wild peacock, a bluebock, one of the smallest antelopes, started up, not far fiom the road. The Hottentots could not resist the temptation, but both our own people and the guides and drivers left the wa- gons, and, with two dogs, set off full speed in pursuit. As this animal is not as swift as others of the same kind, he may be run down in the open field by a swift-footed Hottentot; and now, but for his dexterous turnings and doublings, would have been taken, had he not reached a wood, and thus narrowly escaped. It was yery amusing VISIT TO SOUTH APRICAi, 165 to US to see the chase, and the disappointed looks of the returning huntsmen. The fur of the bluebock is re- markably fine; brown, changing with a blueish gray. It was quite dark before we arrived at a farm, the pos- sessor of which, after some hesitation, permitted us to pitch our tent and unyoke our oxen in the field before his house. We kindled a fire, and after a supper, con- sisting of coffee, bread and honey, lay down to rest. We w^ere, however, prevented going to sleep till near two o'clock in the morning, by a drunken Hottentot, whom neither the exhortations of Brother Schmitt, nor the more forcible means used by Brother Stein, who thrust him out of a Hottentot house, where, in quarrelling and fight- ing with a woman, he had bitten a piece out of her arm, could bring to reason. 24th. During the night, black clouds had overspread the heavens, but providentially dispersed at sunrise, and the morning proved fine. Had it turned to rain, we durst not have ventured to proceed, and to encounter the passage across the mountains. The farmer seemed last night not much disposed to assist us; but Sister Schmitt had this morning got into favour both with him and his wife, and procured a supply of bread, milk, and cab- bages. After breakfast we set out, and soon entered upon roads not easily described, so as to give to English- men an adequate idea of them. How those African wa- gons can bear such thumping, bouncing, twisting, and screwing between rocks, and large masses of broken stones, irregularly piled upon each other, is almost be- yond belief. But the Creator has mercifully provided for the wants of men in all countries. Here grows that valuable wood called Eysterhout, or ironwood, so hard, and likewise so tough, that an axle-tree made of it will bear more than an iron one of twice its thickness. The views from the heights are most singular. I wisK I were able to paint them, so as to present a true picture to my reader's imagination. Along tha horizon to the east and south-east, runs the range of high mountains, enclosing the Lange Kloof, and exhibiting a rugged out- line, with many peaks. Before them are ranges of lower hills, of which^ from one point, we counted no 166 ^^OURNAL OF A less than five, running parallel to each other, attd tn-^ tersected vertically by numberless kloofs, likewise iri parallel lines, so as to give to the whole the appearance of division by art. These kloofs are partly naked, partly filled with bushes, or lined on each side with rocks. To the right of the road, the slope of the hill, sinking into a deep glen beneath, grew more and more steep, as we proceeded, and in some places to that degree, that we began to give credit to the stories of wagons and oxen rolling down altogether, and being seen no more. A misfortune of this kind is said to have happened to a wagon in General Dundas's retinue, when going over the Duivilskop. In about two hours, we reached the Pa^rdekop (Horse's Head) mountain, over the very summit of which we had to pass. Its steepness in all directions renders it impossible to carry the road round its sides. Our ex- hausted oxen w^ere hardly able to drag the wagons along^ and we were obliged again to have recourse to a double spann. The sand-stone rock, forming the mass of the mountain, appears lying in strata nearly perpendicular, besides which, a vast number of large loose fragments are strewed upon its surface. Many of them are clothed with a lichen of a bright vermilion colour. Quartz lies in veins, or in detached pieces. The soil produces a variety of bushes, flowering shrubs and aloes, between the stones. With the help of our men, bearing the wa- gon up on either side, as the slope of the road required, and suffering our cattle to rest every two or three minutes, we at length surmounted every difficulty, and got safely across this dreaded mountain, to an out-spann placi^ in a dreary wilderness. After an hour's rest, we set out again, and our groom, Leonhard, having pointed out a footpath, by which we might shorten our road. Brother and Sister Schmitt and I ventured upon it. It led us through a rocky glen, into which a stone, accidental- ly rolling down from the heights above, produced such a grand effect, that w^e amused ourselves for some time with great zeal, in repeating the experiment. Meeting an old gray-headed Hottentot, with a long beard, dressed only in a kaross and skin apron, we en- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 167 tered into conversation with him. I presented him with 0, (ew doppelgens, (penny pieces.) He thanked me, and observed, that of all things in the world he loved money best. Brother Schmitt asked him, whether he did not love God better, to which he rephed, that he knew no- thing of him. This gave the missionary an opportunity of declaring to him the love of God to man, and to di- rect the poor old man to Jesus, who had loved him unto death, and deserved to be loved above every thing in earth and heaven. The Hottentot listened with atten- tion and surprise, and promised to think on that which he had now heard, and pray to God to give him grace to understand it.. After a tedious and troublesome walk, we arrived at a kraal, near a valley, where an aged Hottentot lived, W4th two slaves. The kraal consisted of a circular build- ing of reeds and rushes, covered with grass, a garden near the brook, and a small enclosure for cattle. Two shaggy dogs announced our arrival with loud barking, which brought out the old man, accompanied, to our comfort, by Leonhard, who had reached the place be- fore us, and turned our horses into the field to graze. The man seemed much pleased with our visit, and not well fitted for a hermit. On leaving him, we descended into the valley, crossed the brook, and mounted a steep hill,^from which, in a short time, we discovered our wa- gons coming down the woody glen. They followed us up the hill, which proved one of the longest ascents and heaviest roads in the whole journey. Here I found the first crystals of quartz, diminutive indeed, but clear, in veins and fissures of sand-stone, and, in general, more disposition to crystallization in the quartz, than I had ever met with before in this country. Had w^e foot-pas- sengers not to go so far forward up the hill, before the w agons arrived at the bottom, it was the boor's intention to have spent the night in the valley. After gaining the summit, we passed through a barren heath, and arrived long after sunset at a place called Kloetes Kraal. Here was neither house, nor Hotten- tot's hut ; but some pieces of timber, the remnants of an old habitation, lying on the ground, enabled us to kindle ]68 JOURNAL OF A two large fires. I had been troubled with headach during the latter part of our journey, and as soon as my mattress could be got ready, lay down in the wagon to rest. While supper was cooking, which for some days was our only meal. Sister Schmitt, knowing that I generally find rehef in strong coffee, but should have re-^ fused giving her additional trouble, prepared it unob- served, and unexpectedly brought me a basin of it into the tent, before I ascended into my dormitory. Services so generous, and unasked for, deserve to be recorded with gratitude; nor is this the first time, that I have ex- perienced the exquisite delight of indulging a grateful sense of the disinterested and unsolicited services of my South African Brethren and friends, whose unmerited kindness towards me on every occasion, will ever remain deeply impressed upon my heart. The situation of our encampment was dreary in the extreme, high and bleak, surrounded with low eminences, which shut ©ut the view of the mountains, not a tree in sight, and far distant from the dwellings of men. During the night, which was very dark, I was roused from sleep, by perceiving some odd motion of the wagon. I sat up, and for a moment felt afraid, that some wild beast had approached our camp, when one of the wheels seemed 'fairly lifted off the ground by some external force. Being so closely shut in, that I could not discover the cause, I called to the Hottentots, who were sleeping round the fire, to come to my assistance, and my shouts alarmed the whole party. It was soon found, that the innocent author of this disturbance was one of our horses, who, having returned from the place, where he had been sent to feed, was amusing himself by scrubbing his back against the wheel. He was, of course, driven away, but soon returned to my great annoyance, till my patience being exhausted, I got up, and sent him off to some dis- tance. Notwithstanding my rest had been thus broken, when the morning dawned, I rose with the rest of the company, in perfect health. We now found that our sociable friend from the round kraal had followed the wagons, and arrived with our Hottentots, after we had retired to rest. He had thufe VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 169 gained a good deal of amusement, and, we hope, some useful information and instruction, besides partaking of their supper and breakfast. We were at least six miles from his hermitage, and our arrival was to him, no doubt, an event of much importance. 25th. The boor, who brought us thus far, had behaved with so much reserve, and had such a forbidding counte- nance, that we had set him down for a very sulky fel- low ; but we now found ourselves so much at his mercy in this wilderness, where we might have waited long enough for a relay of oxen, that we resolved to try his temper, and whether he had good nature enough left, to agree to put us forward another "skoff," or day's jour- ney. Brother Schmitt conducted the negotiation, and having represented our case, found him much more plia- ble than expected ; and surely one ought not always to judge of a man's heart by the cut of his face* After some silent consultation with his own feelings, he observed, that he could not be satisfied, to leave us in this desert, but, though his oxen were tired, he would bring us to Klip Revier, on Kierbooms Revier, being the first farm in the Lange Kloof For this exertion of good^will, he was treated with coffee and brandy, and, at the end of the journey, with a good meal, and a Gnadenthal knife. We set out after breakfast, and walked along a steep, broken ridge of barren hills, while the wagons took the road lower down. Wild boars having been seen this morn- ing on a neighbouring hill, Marcus was sent with a rifle gun to try to get some venison,but returned without having discovered their retreat. In fact, we could not spare any of our people, as every assistance was wanted to keep the wagons from oversetting. We had now arrived among kloofs and low hills, each of which, however, would have obtained the name of mountain in the midland counties of England. They are uniformly very steep, and the ravines dividing them, full of huge stones, rocks, and bushes. One must see such a wild and truly horrid region as we passed through, to have any conception of it. It is in vain to attempt to describe it. The weather had appeared very unpromising in the morning, but cleared up, though the sun did not break forth till 170 JOUliNAL OF A late in the day, which kept us and our cattle cool. We were indeed highly favoured in venturing to make the passage over the Paerdekop into the Lange Kloof. Had it rained, we might have been detained among the moun- tains many days, as is the fate of many a traveller. The people belonging to a wagon we met on the road, in- formed us that they had been three days on the journey, and had the misfortune twice to overset. After a tedious, difficult, and, I may say, dangerous passage over many a hill and glen, we made one hour's out-spann in a deep valley enclosed on all sides by steep banks, and got a luncheon of bread and honey. Brother Stein mounted a rock, unobserved, and played on his flute the tune of that hymn, " JVow let us praise the hord^^ while we all felt disposed to join with heart and voices; for we had indeed cause to praise the Lord for bringing us thus far in safety. Our musician afterwards regaled the English ears among us, with " God save great George our King^^^ which we may venture to say has never yet been heard in this part of his Majesty's dominions. 1 re- mained in the wagon, writing myjournal. After our refreshment, w^e entered with renewed cou- rage upon our toilsome journey, of which, indeed, the poor oxen had more cause to complain than we. Sixteen drew the heavy, and twelve the light wagon. We had our full complement of drivers and leaders, who with our own Hottentots found sufficient employ. Let no one ever hereafter complain of the passage of Hottentot-Hol- land's Kloof, or the Haue Hoek near Gnadenthal, who has passed over these roads, or rather plunged up and down these precipices. Barren as these mountains in general appear, they yet afford a rich harvest for the botanist, and we found several curious plants, unknown to our best botanist, Mr. Melville. In some places, the rugged sides of the hills are clothed with aloes, and other larger plants, and as we proceeded, we saw, on many hills, the so-called Wageboom growing dispersed, re- sembling a planted orchard, the trees' standing fifteen or twenty paces asunder. Of wild creatures, we saw only a few rehbock antelopes, but being excessively shy, out huntsmen Schmitt and Melville rode or ran after them in vain. Elephants, wild boars, wolves, and tygers- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. ITl as likewise baboons, haunt these desolate regions, the first however, only where thej find wood and water. One of our young drivers related to his companion, that at the round kraal, which we visited yesterday, he "watched a tyger for several nights successively, climbing up the poles of the hen-roost. This is a platform made of branches of trees covered with bushes or grass, sup- ported by four or more uprights, about ten or twelve feet high, to which the cocks and hens fly, about sunset, and there roost during the night, out of the reach of mause^ hunde, foxes, and other destructive animals. Nor can ty- gers, or wild cats, well scramble up a smooth pole, with an overhanging superstructure. The tyger had succeeded in seizing one or two chickens, near the edge of the roost, and the Hottentot was determined to stop his thieving. He made two small holes in the side of the Kraal, one for the muzzle of his gun, the other for his eye, behind which he lay in ambush. The tyger soon came, and clasping one of the poles with his claw^s, seemed contri- ving how best to mount to the platform. At that mo- ment the lad fired, and the animal fell, but uttered so loud a roar, that, thinking him yet alive, and likely, in his fury, to make an attack upon the kraal, he first let out his dog. The dog soon put an end to the tyger's life, as he had received the shot through his body. About five o'clock, w^e arrived at Klip Revier, and w^ere welcomed by a friendly farmer of the name of Barkhuis, but who had it not in his power to put us for- ward to-day. We therefore sent a message to the Veld* cornet, to have 20th. We set off early, got a little refreshment at ^Sandfonteyn and reached Uitenhagen about noon, where 'we were cordially received by Colonel Cuyler, and dined with him, in company of Major Fraser, the deputy-land- drost from Graham's-town, and two other officers. Our company returned from the Witte Revier late at night. — Their report was very satisfactory. The Hot- tentots were much pleased with the situation, and decla- red, that a settlement might be made there with every convenience required by a Hottentot congregation, there being much sweet grass, which, in their opinion, is a point of the first consideration. They had with much difficulty reached the Ados Drift yesterday night, and 234 JOURNAL OF A spanned out among the bushes. Elephants and rhinoce- roses had left so many traces of their existence in the wood^ that they were not without apprehensions of be- ing disturbed. In the morning early, they forded the river, but the weariness of the oxen was so great, that they could hardly creep along. On leaving the Witte Revier, Brother Schmitt ad- dressed the party on the aim of our visit, and prayed the Lord, if it were His gracious will, to estabHsh here a place, in which his name might be glorified. He then opened the collection of Scripture-texts for every day in the year, and the text which immediately presented itself to his view, is so remarkable, that I cannot help quoting it. — It was the r2th verse of the 33d chapter of Jeremi- ah : " Again^ in this place^ which is desolate^ without man and without beasts and in all the cities thereof^ shall be a ha- bitation of shepherds^ causing their flocks to lie down.^^ We pray, that with respect to this desolate spot also, this en- couraging prediction may be fulfilled. 21st. During the day, our old friends, and several Hot- tentots visited us. I called upon Colonel Cuyler, who kindly furnished me with the needful orders for relays, both through his district, and to George. The whole party dined with Mr. Buchenrode, who approved himself our true friend, both during our former and present abode at Uitenhagen. Mr. Allen, the secretary, again offered us every assistance in his power. 22d, We left Uitenhagen at nine oVlock, and at half past three reached KafFre 'Kraal, Mr. Neukirch's farm, on Van Staades' Revier, where w^e were again hospita- bly treated. The charming glen and woods, through which the river runs, delighted us anew; and finding oxen ready, w^e proceeded, without much delay, to Klaarefonteyn. Mr. Neukirch's brother received us with expressions of much pleasure, and I found here time and opportunity to continue my diary, with ink, made of the leaves of the Wageboom. The process is simple. The leaves, dvy or fresh, are boiled, with a rusty iron nail, and a piece of sugar candy added, when the decoc- tion becomes a fine black ink, used for wanting, dying, or as a black-reviver. I purchased here from a poor te- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 235 vnant, a pair of buffaloe-cow horns, and Mr. Neuklrch presented me with a beautiful pair of buschbock horns. I was happy to be able to return his civiiitj, by giving him an eight-bladed knife, which was greatly adaiired and valued. He had a buffaloe calf in a kraal, with other young cattle. Its hair looked very rough, and it was said to be wild and unruly. Among the mountains, there was much vivid lightning. 23d. On leaving Klaarefonteyn, we again very much admired the beauties of that tract of country, called the Galgenbosch, and the weather being fine, w^e beheld it to great advantage. To the right of the road, and towards the hills, the character of the country is truly singu- lar. About noon, w^e arrived at the Louri Revier, when Mr. Melville and I, mounting our horses, crossed the ri- er, and rode up to the farm-house, half a mile distant, o pay a visit to the farmer, Mr. Van Roy, of whom we ad heard a good character from the Neukirchs. I had ikewise an intention of purchasing the horns of a buffa- loe bull, which he had shot some days ago. Having an opportunity of conveying such subjects of curiosity to ^England, I had begun to make a collection of the horns k)f animals, peculiar to this country, which, with other cu- riosities, I wished to present to the College of the United [Brethren, at Nisky, in Saxony. We found Mr. and Mrs. Van Roy at home, and well .pleased with our visit. After some conversation, we in- quired about the horns. He related, that about ten idays ago, he had met with and shot at the buffaloe, in a Iwood not far off, and wounded him in the leg. The ani- mal fled, but being pursued and brought down by the idogs, was shot a second time through the head. When Mr. Van Roy showed us the head, he said, that he meant to make a tobacco-pipe of the points of the horns. We ^expressed our regret, that so beautiful a pair of horns should be destroyed in that way; but he replied, that it would cost him five dollars to get a pipe of that kind. [Mr. Melville, supposing him to Dioan that each horn Iwould make one pipe, asked me, in English, Avhether I would a'lve ten dollars for the head, to wliich I agreed. 236 JOURNAL OF A On hearing this, the truly honest farmer exclaimed:— *' Ten ! no, I said five would be required to get a tobac- co-pipe, and I will take no more from that gentleman.'^ A slave was then set to work to cut off the superfluous bone, and make it more portable. He now brought the head of a bufFaloe cow, shot some time ago, and would have given it into the bargain, but I paid him what I had given for the first of the kind I purchased. He invited us to stay and dine with him. Among other questions respecting England, and English customs, he laid a case before us, wishing to know how he was to act, consistently with English law. One of his Hotten- tots had shot his neighbour's bull, mistaking him in the dark for a wild buffaloe. The neighbour required, that he should pay the damage, which he refused, on the ground that he had not shot it, and the Hottentot had nothing to pay. We told him, that in England, a master was responsible for the deeds of his servant^ and the Hottentot having done it, while employed by him, and with his gun, we thought, that he would get nothing by a suit, but do best to compromise the affair, and pay for the bull. He spoke as a friend to the English, but re- gretted, that they were losing their popularity in the colony, by taxation, and the mode of settling the quit- rents. He thought it hard, that when a man had done every thing in his power to improve his farm, by making water-courses for irrigation, clearing land, &c. that those very improvements should tell against him, and he be charged a higher rent than his neighbour, who was an indolent man, suffering his estate to go to decay, when, in fact, it was better land, and more productive, and therefore more able to bear the burden; " But," added he, '^ we would bear taxation, if the English would only keep a large military force in the country, as by that means, we should obtain a ready sale for our corn and other produce, and have wherewith to pay. But now they are withdrawing their troops." As stanch friends to our country and its Government, we heard this man's very sensible remarks with concern, and wished, that means niight be devised, consistent with the just and be- nevolent disposition of our present administration, ta VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 237 grant relief, and make the occupation of this land by the British, considered a blessing, and not a curse, as we have sometimes heard it called. We now returned to our encampment on the river, and found that Brother Schmitt had meanwhile proceed- ed with the baggage-wagon to the Chamtoos Wagendrift on Klein Revier, whither we immediately followed, and reached the ford about sunset. The farm-house was a miserable hovel, and could not afford a lodging to our party ; yet, as it lightened much, and threatened to rain, we were desirous of obtaining better shelter than the tent. After some search, we fixed upon a forsaken blacksmith's shop, consisting of two small rooms, one containing the forge and anvil, the other empty. We got them well swept, and put down our mattresses. Not feeling much disposed to sleep, I placed my desk upon the anvil, and, seated upon a wooden block, conti- nued writing, while my friends rested. It was a provi- dential circumstance that I remained awake. The door was made of rushes, fastened together with thongs, in a -fi| slender frame, and had no lock. The rushes did not reach to the top of the door-way, and I was twice dis- turbed by a cat, scrambling up from the outside, and jumping over into our dormitory. This, however, proved a slight disturbance. About midnight, the bull and other cattle broke out of the kraal, and the unruly beast came bellowing up to the door, which he began to push about with his horns. I was much alarmed, as very little force was required to throw it down, when we should have had a very troublesome guest in our quarters. Being afraid to face him in the dark, 1 made some noise within, when he took himself off, yet every now and then approaching in his perambulations. I therefore immediately fell to work, to make a fastening to the door, with a piece of iron, found in the forge, which I worked into the wall, and tied to the door with a strong thong. Yet, after all these precautions, I hardly ventured to lie down. Be- tween four and five in the morning, two thunder storms, with heavy rain, passed successively over us, and we were thankful for the shelter w^e had found. Thcvfo!- 238 JOURNAL OF A lowed the course of the Chamtoos Revier from north to south. 24th. The Klein Revier farm, mentioned above, as re- commended to me both by the Colonial Secretary, and the landdrost of Uitenhagen, as a place suitable for a missionary establishment, lies about two or three En- glish miles from the Chamtoos Wagendrift, in the hills, higher up the river. Though a farmer had applied for it, and it was therefore contrary to our views to take ad- vantage of his not having obtained a grant, yet I felt it my duty to go and look at it, both that it might not ap- pear as if we w^ere indifferent to the kindness that had dictated the offer, and that I might obtain more informa- tion on the spot, respecting the intentions of the present claimant. After breakfast, therefore, I rode with Bro- ther Schmitt and Marcus to the place, our host very ci- villy accompanying us. Brother Stein, and Lebrecht Aris followed on foot. We crossed the Klein Revier at two fords. The vale is full of bushes and large timber, and pleased us much. The hills on each side are not high, and covered with wood to their summits. Large thorn-bushes occupy the greatest part of the banks of the river. Tall Geelhoutboom trees and other ever-greens exhibited some fine forest scenery. As we approached the place, we met the farmer going with some Hottentots to cut down bushes, and open a better way from the drift. He sent his men on, ana returned with us. The dwell- ing-house was on a rising ground, and little better than a Hottentot bondhoek. A hut stood near it, and these two miserable tenements contained at present the whole family. The farnier's wife appeared to be a sen- sible and civil woman, and presented us with all her house afforded, sweet milk. The vale is not to be com- pared with that on the Witte Revier, either for extent, fertility, or beauty, but the Klein Revier is a clear, ever flowing, rapid stream. On our return, we were accompanied by the farmer, to whom, however, we did not explain the aim of our visit. The strata of red rocks, forming the western bank of the Chamtoos Revier, have a striking appearance, of Avhich, during our absence, Mr. Melville had made a VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 239 drawing. We had to wait till noon, before the oxen were sent, according to order, to put us Ibrward on our journey, when we got well through the Wagondrift, the ford of the Chamtoos river, and the Soute Kloof, and passing by Mr. Simon Fereira's farm, arr-ived at night at a farm-house called the Ausilucht, (Emigration,) wliere we were accommodated with a chamber. Mr. Melvilh? went with the young farmer to the gardens, lying at a little distance, to hunt porcupines, which is done by night; but none made their appearance. 25th. Before we set out, I took a walk with Mr, Mel- ville into the garden, where the dogs had killed one of these singular animals. We left this place at eight, called at Mr. Miller's farm, and provided ourselves with a sup- ply of necessaries. Between this and Essenbosch, we met Mr. Akkerraan, who returned with us, that he might not lose the bargain he proposed to himself, by selling us a spann of oxen, accordmg to a former oiler. By the way, we dined in a pleasant valley, under some trees. At Essenbosch we staid but a short time, to purchase some wheaten bread, and a rehbock antelope, shot by a Hottentot lad, for which he asked a dollar and a half. Brother Schmitt proposed to him to take a boschlemmer knife instead of the money, lest he should spend the latter in brandy, and lose all advantage of his day's work. Our Hotten- tots likewise urged him to take the knife, which, after long demur, he agreed to; but, still undetermined, fum- bled about, and among several knives, could not find one to suit his fancy, while his sheepish, suspicious looks, and confusion in examining the knives, allbrded much merriment to his countrymen. At last, he chose the worst, and sneaked off, with silent murmurs at not having turn- ed the rehbock into brandy. We had no time to pay a farewell-visit to the lady on the other side of the glen, (p. 189,) but after a tedious ride in the dark, along the Kromm Revier, and throu^I some deep ravines, reached a farm-house, pitched our tent near it, and enjoyed a quiet niglit's n^st. It lightened much in the east and north. 2Gth. We set out before daybreak. It was a clear, 210 JOURNAL OF A autumnal morning. The high peaked hills, to our leilt* had emerged from the dark mists, which surrounded them last night, and the sun broke forth with splendour. The farm we had just left was forsaken by the former possessor, who declared himself unable to pay the new duties, charges for measurement, and high quit rents. Another farm in the neighbourhood, was forsaken by the husband of the lady of Essenbosch, for the same reason. These effects of the present system seem to demand a revision of the mode of carrying it into execution, which so many farmers, in the interior, assert to be done, with- out due discrimination or knowledge of local circumstan- ces. We trust, that, as his Excellency the Governor is about to undertake a journey to the frontier, he will hear and judge for himself, how far these repeated complaints are well founded; for it is to be supposed, that as all innovation is generally resisted by uninstructed people, many may too soon have taken the alarm. After a pleasant ride through the Kromm Revier Val- ley, we reached Jagersbosch, Mr. Akkerman's farm, about nine o'clock. Mr. Melville had rode on to farmer Marcus, to procure oxen. 27th. Mr. Akkerman's house was full of people. Some were sick, and every thing within the wretched rooms looked very uncomfortable. Sister Schmitt therefore prepared breakfast for us in front of the house. After some time, Mr. Akkerman's oxen arrived, and Brother Schmitt, assisted by our Hottentots, chose ten of them, for which, as they were picked, we paid what was asked, viz. two hundred and fifty dollars. Mr, Akkerman was satisfied to receive part of this sum in Gnadenthal knives, which, being a very saleable article, would leave him a further profit. The Hottentot, mentioned above, who had killed and skinned the tyger during our former visit, bad not forgotten my promise to purchase the skin, in case he tanned it properly. It was well done, and a beautiful skin. I gave the poor fellow the sum he asked and richly deserved. Lebrecht Aris being appointed driver of the new-pur- chased oxen, we set out. The road along the Kromm Revier is a succession of ups and downs, on a sloping VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 241 bank, which, in some places, renders travelling danger- ous, on account of the sudden descent towards th \er. The scenery is, in many parts, singular, and a few spots appear fertile, especially where the vale widens. Mr. Mey's farm, our next station, laj at the head of the river, in a dreary glen. He is a German by birth. Mr. Melville was here, and having provided one spann of oxen, called to us to come down from the road, to see the place. The dwelling was miserable, with a car- penter's shop adjoining, but the people were friendly. No other spann arriving, we were obliged to employ the oxen we had purchased this morning. Among them w^ere two or three, which never before had submitted to the yoke. They now expressed their objections to serve the lords of the creation, in a manner that endangered the safety both of our wagons and persons. But here, the superior courage and skill of Hottentots, in the treat- ment of oxen, were manifest. They would not hear of permitting the unruly beasts quietly to follow, but, by dint of perseverance, at length brought them all to the yoke. Herein, they were assisted by the habits of the oxen themselves. Though they ran about, tossing their heads, and kicking furiously, and it sometimes seemed as if they would escape altogether, yet they were made to return, by driving two or three tame ones after them, whom they immediately joined ; w^hen, taking no particu- lar notice of the wild, and the tame ones being easily driven back to the wagon, the wild followed quietly, and were again caught, by passing a thong with a loop round their horns. Though they now threatened to run upon the person holding them, and more than once got loose, yet, by a repetition of the same stratagem, they were at length subdued, and stood still. When urged forward, feeling the yoke, they resisted so much, that the other spann was sent down to assist their refractory compa- nions, and after much hallooing, cracking of whips, and lashing, the wagons w^ere at length brought to the top of the hill. By this delay, we did not reach Ellandsfonteyn till long after sunset, but were received with civility by Mr. 31 2i2 JOURNx\L OP A Piet Fereira and his wife, and permitted to spread our bedding on the floor of the vorhaus, or hall. 28th, The poor German farmer, Mey, having witness- ed the trouble we had with our oxen yesterday evening, of his own accord sent four tame, and, as they are here called, learned oxen, to our assistance, with which we proceeded, passing over the spot where, on the 29th of March, one of our wagons overturned. We remember- ed, with thankfulness, the merciful preservation then ex- perienced, and rejoiced with Brother Stein, that, except in some degree of weakness, he no longer felt the injury done to his arm. When we reached Olivier's farm, it was with difficulty that we prevailed on Mr. Mey to accept of some remuneration for the loan of his beasts. I gave him a certificate for two spanns, which he justly deserved, for, without his assistance, we should not have been able to proceed with our own oxen, without much trouble and delay. Fresh oxen being soon procured, we passed by two farms in the Lange Kloof. At one of them. Brother Schmitt and I endeavoured to gain en- trance, but a broad sheet of water prevented us. The people called out from the opposite side, desiring that we would come over with the wagons, but wishing to reach Kliphubel, before it grew dark, we thanked them for their kind offer, and pushed on as fast as our weary cattle would bear it. On our arrival, we met with a very dry reception. Card-playing occupied the attention of the family, and an officer of dragoons, contrary to the general practice of the military, bestowed no kind of attention upon his countrymen. No invitation was given, nor any assist- ance offered. Pitching our tent upon the werft could not well be refused, but we were left to get fuel where we could find it, and to cook our own victuals. Though, in general, we were most happy and independent in our tent, yet we could not but feel the affront as intended; and the night being very cold, it proved injurious to Sister Schmitt's health. Meanwhile, the Veldcornet's house rang with mirth and jollity. A miserable flute whistled in accompaniment to the heels of the merry party, the clatter of which disturbed our night's rest VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 243 almost as much as the tournament performed by the bull and his associates at Engelbrecht's, in Bruntjes Hoogte. 28th. While we were at breakfast, we had the ho- nour of a visit from our ungracious host. He came with his pipe in his mouth, and squatting down on the ground, commenced a conversation on various subjects. But he seemed principally to wish to know, whether we had found a place suitable for a settlement. He was told, that we had seen several, but fixed on none. He then surveyed the wagons, observed, that they were wel! constructed for a long journey, and made a great merit of putting us forward immediately, with two spanns of cows. His slaves and domestics, by his own order, durst not take any notice of, or assist us, and the En- glish officer afterwards pretended to say, that he had not known that Englishmen were on the werft, though he had spoken with both Mr. Melville and me. CHAPTER XV. Departure from KliphubeL Instance of persecution. Bru- tality of a boor. Avantur. Civility of Mr. Zondag and his family. Bush-cats. JVighfs lodging at Veldcornet Rendsberg'^s. Eseljagd'^s Revier. Hartebeest-hoiise at David Friers farm. Runaway slave. Delay at Great Dorn Revier. Unsuccessful attempt in surgery. Sajran'^s Revier. •Attaqua'^s Kloof. Caverns. Saffranskraal. German farmer and his baboon^ at Groote Pacrdekraal. We left Kliphubel about nine o'clock, and found the cows to perform their duty with great alacrity. As we were passing slowly over a hill, we saw a woman mak- ing towards us, across the heath. When she reached the wagons, she appeared alwiost convulsed with weep- ing, and we could scarcely pacify her, so as to make her speech intelligible. She said, that she was the most miserable of beings, a slave, and sold by the Veldcornet, whom we had just left, to a neighbouring boor- because 244 JOURNAL OF A she went to hear the word of God. The boor himself was a riioderate man, but his wife a most inveterate enemj of the gospel, who beat her slaves and depend- ants, if tbej showed any disposition that way. That, hovi^ever. was not the worst, but her son and daughter- in-law, were hkewise slaves to the Veldcornet, and to be sold on account of their love of religion, especially as her son spoke to the other slaves. They were to be separated from each other, the husband being disposed of to one, and the wife to another farmer, living at a distance from each other; that the thoughts of it made her distracted, and she spent her time running to and fro among the bushes, crying to God for mercy, but that, if she, or any other slaves, were found kneehng behind a bush in prayer, they were sure to be unmercifully treated. We spoke to her in as consoling a manner as we could, encouraged her to persevere in crying to the Lord for de- liverance from such distress, and for the conversion of her mistress and other enemies of His word, and meanwhile to be faithful and diligent in her service. As she seemed to lay a great stress upon kneeling, and to think that the only posture of body in which prayer could be made acceptably, we told her, that our Saviour was every where and at all times present and ready to hear the cry that proceeded from the heart, whether she was at work, in the house, or field, sitting or standing, or in any other attitude, and that no authority or circumstance could prevent the heart from holding communion with God ; but that He had foretold His disciples, that they would be hated and persecuted for His name's sake. It must therefore be expected, and we have to look to Him alone, for that peace, which He promised to them in the midst of the tribulations of this world. The poor woman seemed to take comfort, and to be truly in earnest in seeking the salvation of her soul. By this circumstance, we gained some insight into the cause of our treatment last night, when we were shut out, as being engaged with missionary affairs, not to mention the inconvenience and disturbance which might have been occasioned to the hop, by the intrusion of such grave faces. We reaped, however, a \ery essential advantage from Mr. F.'s aver- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 245 sion to such company, for he was the more ready to help us oflfhis premises, and his cows carried us, with great speed, to a farm belonging to a Mr. H. The master be- ing absent, we were very civilly treated by his black slave, and soon provided with tvvo spanns of oxen, to bring us forward to Mr. Zondag's farm, at Avantur. During the short time of our stay at Mr. H.'s misera- ble place, Mr. Melville had the unexpected pleasure of meeting with an officer in the Cape regiment, who had been his school-fellow. Strolling about the premises, I noticed a trap-flur, better built, and larger than any I had yet seen. This is a circular piece of ground, surrounded by alowwall, and made as hard as a threshing floor, in- to which the corn is put, and the grain trodden out by from ten to twenty or more horses, driven round it in a sharp trot. Whether this is a mode better calculated to secure the crop than threshing, or a barbarous, wasteful custom, founded on prejudice, the straw being thus de- stroyed and lost, I leave better judges to determine. All the other buildings in this farm were wretched huts, and the premises covered with filth, and the remnants of carcasses, as is too generally the case in this country. Yet the proprietor was possessed of what many English gen- tlemen cannot boast. He had been at the funeral of a neighbour's child, unfortunately burnt to death, and met us on the road in his state-wagon, drawn by six beautiful horses of equal size and colour, driven by himself In- stead of greeting us, he jumped off the box, and demand- ed of his black lad, what business he had to give us Vorspann. The poor slave had hardly time to reply, that he had acted conformably to his own commands, to furnish Vorspann in his absence, if ordered by the Veld- cornet, when he put himself into a furious rage, attended with hideous grimaces, so as to make himself truly ridicu- lous, and threatening what he would do to his slave, when he got home, mounted his box, without paying any respect to our party, and drove off. The poor slave was exceedingly terrified, told us, that his master was a cruel tyrant, and would certainly give him a hard flogging on his return, with the achter shambock, the thickest whip cut out of the hippopotamus skin, and used to beat the 246 JOURNAL OF A shaft-oxen with. In passing, we called on the friendly family at Wellgelegen, who treated us with tea-water. Here we found a dark-coloured man, who travels about as a schoolmaster, to teach the farmers' children their letters and a little ciphering, spending a few weeks at a time at one place, then going to another, for the same purpose, there being no schools in the country. Of course, the proficiency made is very small, and hardly sufficient to qualify the scholars for the most common uses of reading, writing, and ciphering. To this want of instruction must be ascribed the general state of igno- rance prevailing, with few exceptions, among the inhabit- ants of the interior. The schoolmaster was a very inqui- sitive man, and a shrewd politician. By the specimens we had just seen of the behaviour of certain fanners in the Lange Kloof, we augured but un- favourably of the reception we were likely to meet with at Avantur, and afraid that we should be obliged to spend a cold, windy night, in our tent ; but herein we 'were most agreeably disappointed. Nothing could ex- ceed the cordial welcome we experienced from Mr. Zondag. He stood like an ancient patriarch before his door, and as w^e walked up to the house, held out his hand, inviting us in the most friendly manner, to enter, and make his house our home. His wife was worthy of him, and in the kindest manner received Sis- ter Schmitt and the whole party. Perhaps their friend- liness and hospitality was rendered the more conspi- cuous and gratifying, in contrast with the savage con- duct of those we had left; but the general behaviour of the Zondags towards all persons in the house, prov- ed them to have benevolent dispositions. The children, who were yet young, seemed to partake of the vir- tues of their parents, and behaved with unaffected good-will and confidence towards us. Two dragoons, entering the room, came up to us, shook hands, and, in lively terms, expressed their joy to see English faces, and hear their own language spoken. They were civil, well-bred young men. After much agreeable conver- sation, we were entertained by looking over a large Dutch bible, in folio, admirably well printed, and full VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 247 of good cuts, which was valued as the chief jewel in the family. Little Peter, a favourite boy, was employed to read some portions of its contents, which he did well, but the want of schools in the country was much lamented by the parents. That we might be the bet- ter accommodated, Mr. and Mis. Zondag, unknown to us, gave up their own room, and retired into the dragoons' house to sleep. The latter went into the garret. 29th. We seemed in no great hurry to leave so agreeable a mansion, and did not set off till half past nine. Meanwhile all kind of business was carrying on. The slaves, and others wanted Gnadenthal knives, which brother Schmitt furnished. A dragoon gave me the skin of a bush-cat, shot a few days ago. This is a fierce, but beautiful animal, about three feet and a half long. It has a rougher skin, and a shorter tail than the tyger. Its general colour is a brownish-yel- low. From the forehead along the back, three jet- black streaks run towards the tail ; the sides are mark- ed with large single spots of the same colour ; the tail has five black rings, and each ear two streaks. Broad black bands descend a little way, in curved lines, down the shoulders. It generally climbs trees, watching for some unfortunate antelope or other creature to approach for shade, or near enough to be sprung upon. Perceiv- ing that I was much pleased with the skin, Mr. Zondag's nephew brought me another still more beautiful, and well dressed. I inquired of the other dragoon how I might reward his comrade for his generosity, for he had declined receiving any remuneration. He replied, that as he was " a great writer," but could get no paper, and was obliged to write on any odd scrap he could find on the premises, some paper would be most acceptable. I gave him half a quire of foolscap, and a few pencils and pens, with which he seemed extremely delighted. Sister Schmitt got here a supply of butter, apples, and other necessaries, and we left this hospitable family with ex- pressions of mutual esteem and affection. We were also supplied with excellent oxen, and Marcus, without much m 248 JOURNAL OF A use of the whip, brought them frequently, on even road, into a sharp trot. Our next stage was Jacomima Barkhuis's farm, on Kierboom's Revier. The family received us kindly, as old acquaintances, and as the old lady pleaded inability to furnish oxen, Mr. Zondag had permitted us, in that case, to proceed with his spanns to the house of the Veldcornet Michael Rendsberg, at Gaensekraal. We again entered the premises with some suspicion, lest we might be left to spend a cold night on the werft, but though the house was full of company, we met with a cordial welcome. The Veldcornet and his wife were remarkably attentive to us. Coffee was served, and the evening spent in lively and agreeable conversation be- tween thoge who could speak Dutch. An English dragoon, who had arrived from Kliphubel, told us, that the manner in which we were received in that place, had given much offence to our brave country- men, but they durst not show their good-will towards us, without their officer's leave. From hence, we in- tended to go by the new-made road across the mountains to George, but heard, to our sorrow, that the landdrost, Mr. Van Kervel, had gone to Plettenberg Bay. We therefore resolved to take the nearer road, by Attaqua's kloof, and sent Johannes to George to bring the oxen we had left in that place to the Gowritz river, where we should join the main road. 30th. After breakfast. Brother Schmitt was requested by Mrs. Rendsberg to deliver a discourse to their slaves and Hottentots, which he did on the words of our Sa- viour's parable; ^'' Go out into the highways and hedges^ and compel them to come in.^'^ He addressed both the Christians and heathen present, in a serious and impres- sive manner, for which the ladies in the family more particularly expressed many thanks. The oxen fur- nished here were small and weak, and brought us for- ward but very slowly. We found ourselves encom- passed with mountains of singular shapes, but, like the country through which we passed, barren in the extreme. Our dinner was cooked on the banks of the Eselsjagd river, (or Zebra-hunting river,) which at present con- VISIT Tp SOUTH AFRICA. 219^ sisted only of a few stagnant pools. After quitting this place, we entered a narrow glen, bordered by ledges of rocks, bushes of various kinds, and Wageboom-trees, growing luxuriantly wherever any soil was left to sup- port them. The large fragments of white quartz, co- vered in some places with vermilion-coloured moss, and the diversified tints, produced by the layers and masses of ferruginous sand-stone, intermixed with the foliage of the trees and bushes, gave to the whole a picturesque ap- pearance. The road was very rough, till we emerged from the kloof and got into the Karroo-field, so called from its resemblance to the great Karroo. We had now the mountains on the north side of the Oliphant's river in view, with other ranges of higher or lower hills. After a tedious ride through a flat country, covered with rhinoceros-bushes, and here and there with aloes and Wageboom, we arrived at a farm called Plaisir, where the Veldcornet had advised us to stop, if it were too late to reach Mr. Heyns's farm on Dorn Kevier. As it was a light evening, we determined to proceed ; and crossing the river, entered a kloof between low, heathy hills. It lightened much, and the road was very uneven ; and perceiving, that we could not well reach Dorn Revier, we despatched old Leonhard to a farm called Klippedrift, to announce our intention of honouring the proprietor, David Frie, with our company. The road to it was dreadfully bad, and in crossing a narrow ra- vine, with a deep brook at the bottom, we were in some danger of oversetting, but the good people came out with lights, to show us the way to the house. The far^ mer immediately gave us the only room he could spare, which was at one end of what is called a hartebeest house, being a roof, put upon a wall about two feet in height. But the building, though very small, was new, and clean, with two bedsteads in it. Of these Brother and Sister Schmitt occupied one, I the other, arwi Mr. Melville the floor. Brother Stein put up with the only vacant spot remaining, under the bedsteads. But we were thankful to be under good cover. It lightened in- cessantly; and during the night the s.torm passpd over us, with loud thunder. 32 250 JOtJR^'AL OF A May 1st. We rose early, the weather havino; cleareiJ up, that we might reach Mr. Heyns's on Dorn Revier to breakfast. A runaway slave, chained to a post in the farmer's kitchen, was this morning sent forward to the drosty for punishment. He belonged to a place at some distance. In this manner, deserters are passed, from one farm to the other, till they reach the prison. We expressed to him our pity, and Brother Schmitt gave him some good advice, but he seemed quite stupified. The family behaved with great civility, and presented Sifter Schmitt with a fine tortoise, and some eggs. A pleasant morning's ride brought us to Great Dorn Revier; but no Vorspann having arrived, we were de- tained here all day. We found here a pleasant family, and spent the day in writing, drawing, and other useful employments. In the neighbourhood of this place, es- pecially on some rocky hills to the south, many wild horses are yet seen. 1 obtained the skin of one, in bar- ter for some gunpowder. A Koodoo-skin was likewise purchased for five rix-dollars. They are used for lashes, and sold at a much higher price near the Cape. Brother Stein had here an opportunity of serving some of the family with medical advice, bled a black female slave, and attempted to extract a tooth, which had lono; tormented the mistress. But no sooner had he brought his instrument to bear upon it, than she pushed him away, leaving the tooth half-drawn ; nor would she suf- fer him to finish his work, the bleeding of the lacerated gum having brought her some relief No persuasion from her wiser husband could prevail, to let him make a second attempt. Though the Vorsf)ann system was sometimes attended with unforeseen delays, we generally contrived to make good use of our time, nor did the people at this place seem to wish to get rid of us. In the evening, the light- ning was vivid all round the horizon. Our dormitory was a lumber-room, with a mud-floor, where we enjoyed a quiet night. 2d. After breakfast, we were glad to see two spanns of oxen arrive for our use. The country through which Ave passed, was one continued waste, thickly covered VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 251 With plants and bushes. Some species of the thorn-bush and speckboom were new to me. In two hours, we ar- rived at the Veldcornet Wolfran's farm, but made no stay. He came out to us, and gave us a letter to the farmer at Saffran's Revier to furnish us with fresh cattle, as his were too voung and weak to take us through At- taqua's Kloof. But when we arrived at that place, the farmer pretended, that he had no oxen at home, though the dragoons informed us, that he had enough (or five spanns, but had driven them across the river, ag soon as he saw our wagons coming down the hill. He seemed to be completely under the control of his wile, a woman of a most surly temper, who, when her more hos- pitable daughter set a plate of apples before us, snatched them angrily away, and would hardly allow us to eat our own bread and butter under her roof. Mr. Barrow must have encountered many of that description, when he drew his picture of the African boors and their ladies. We met with but few, for, in general, they treated us with civility. Near this place, I found some very singular fossils in iron-stone, resembling screws, and in several places, the stones were covered with a bituminous crust. We perceived now, that the best way would be, quiet- ly to move on, and to endeavour to work our way through the kloof, with our weary oxen, as well as we could. Having reached the first steep ascent, we left the wagons, and, by a foot-path, joined the road on the other side of the hill. Here we rested long, before the wagons overtook us. Some curiows caverns attracting- our attention, we entered them. By some foot-marks in the sand, we perceived, that they afforded retreat to tyger-cats. They also provided shelters for travellers in rainy weather, there being here an outspann-place, and fireplaces made under the overhanging rocks. For- getting the caution I had prescribed to myself, when I touched a tarantula spider, on the Zuurberg, I lifted up a stone to examine it, and saw a young scorpion lying under it. I was thankful that I had escaped putting my hand upon it. Finding it impossible to reach any habir tation to-night, the weather bejog very dark and cloudy, 252 JOURNAL OF A and seeing a fire on the mountain, we made towards it. It had been kindled by Lebrecht Aris, who had brought our purchased oxen thus far, and was preparing to rest here. We put up our tent, and though somewhat an- noyed by passing mists, commended ourselves to the protection of God, and spent a very quiet night in this wild place. 3d. Brother Stein, thinking the morning about to dawn, at half past three roused us out of a sound sleep, and announced the day. Though unnecessarily disturb- ed, we took advantage of it, and prepared for our depar- ture. When it grew light, we saw high peaked moun- tains to our left, and found ourselves in a romantic situ- ation. It was six o'clock before we set off. As we pro- ceeded, we were surrounded by rocky eminences of con- siderable height, and the views became still more inte- resting, especially when we reached the highest part of the kloof, where the mountains exhibited very singular scenery. Mr. Melville and I were so long engaged in drawing, that we could not overtake the wagons, and were obliged to walk the whole way to the next farm, a distance of little less than ten English miles. Mr. Rutter, the pro- prietor of the Groote Paerdekraal, is a German by birth. His house lies about a field's length from the road, and both he and his wife received us most civilly. Indeed, our visit seemed to put him into high spirits. Though seventy-five years old, he was remarkably strong and lively, and full of merry jokes. I felt at first much fa- tigued, but soon recovered. Our host came from the neighbourhood of Gotha in Saxony, and had been pre- sent at the building of the settlement of the Brethren in that neighbourhood, called Neudietendorf, of which he gave us an entertaining account, according to the notions he had formed of its institutions, though not quite like those of Madam de Stael. He related also some part of his own history, and the manner in which he had been decoyed at Amsterdam by a Dutch crimp, and brought at last as a soldier to the Cape. Our having noticed a tame baboon on his promises, led him to tell us the fol- lowing story : Doing duty at the castle at Capetown, he VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 253 kept one of these comical animals for his amusement. One evening, some boys and girls entered the place where it was confined, and played with it, unknown to him, till it broke its chain. In the night, climbing up into the bel- fry, it began to play with and ring the bell. Immedi- ately the whole place was in an uproar : some great danger was apprehended. Many thought, that the cas- tle was on fire, others, that an enemy had entered the bay, and the soldiers began to turn out, when it w^as dis- covered, that his baboon had caused the disturbance. On the following morning, a court-martial was held, when Cape justice dictated, that w^iereas Master Rutter's ba- boon had unnecessarily put the castle into a state of alarm, its master should receive fifty Jashes : ^' but,'' ad- ded he, " among these mountains, and under British go- vernment, I hope, that my baboon and I may make as much noise as we please, without either of us endanger- ing his back." Brother Schmitt, struck with the general levity of thfs honest man's manner, began to speak seriously with him about his advanced age, and observed, that though he was blessed with such good health and flow of spirits, it was high time to think of the approach of death. He replied, that as to religion, he understood more about it than all the people that travelled that way, and would immediately enter the lists with him, to prove, that the Lutheran faith was the right one* Having brought three or four quarto volumes from an adjoining room, he de- clared, that he had read them all through, and by them could settle any dispute. Brother Schmitt declined all dispute, and wished only to impress upon his mind the necessity of true conversion of heart and assurance of acceptance with God, through the merits of Jesus Christ. But the old man either would, or could not understand him, and turned the conversation to other subjects. Our cattle were completely fatigued, and Mr. Rutter obliged us much, by sending for two spanns, and putting us forward, w^ithout an express order from the Veldcor- net. The road from the Groote Paerdekraal led through a very rough cou-ntry, to the Haagekraal. That part of the mountains which will admit of any verdure, is well 254 JOURNAL OF A covered with it. Wageboom is frequent, and in other places, the sugar-bush, being now in full flower, adorned the slopes of the hills, with great splendour. At six we reached Haagekraal, and though the proprietors, Mr. and Mrs. Meyer, were not at home, their son gave us a hearty welcome. The night turned out windy and rainy, and we were again thankful to be under shelter. Our driver Marcus, who had expressed much joy at our resolution to pass this way, as it would give him an opportunity of once more seeing his aged father, who was a hundred and four years old, was, to our sorrow, disappointed ; being informed, that the old man and hi$ wife were gone to see his sick sister, at the missionary institution at Hoogte Kraal, near George ; but he spent the evening with another of his sisters, and her four children. CHAPTER XVL Haagekraal Account of Wild horses. Gowritz Revier. Meeting with Johannes from George. Baboons. Irish hospitality. Klein Vat Revier. Turbulent housewife. Pass the farms of Messrs. Du Preez and Lombard. The family at Schlangen Revier going " op de tocht.'^^ Bunte- bock antelopes. Dangerous ford. Reach Zwellendam. Church-affairs. Mr. Koster^ an independent missionary. Heavy ruins. Ferry over the Breede Revier. Mr. Hei- mane's account of icild Buffaloes. Manner of crossing the river. Mr. Van Helsland. The plant Vlachdorn. Ar- rival at Gnadenthal. May 4th. The Haagekraal farm lies pleasantly on a green, surrounded by low hills, and watered by a large brook. The proprietor is brother to Mr. Meyer of Har- tenbosch, near Mossel Bay, with whom we found such pleasant accommodations. We met here the son of our merry host at Groote Paerdekraal. Speaking of the singular situation of his father's house, he told some curious anecdotes of the VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 255 wild horses in the Attaqaa's Kloof. He once followed a young filly of that description, and had nearly come up with it, when he was charged with great fury by the wild stallion, and obliged to quit his horse. The stallion seized the horse by the mane with his teeth, and threw him down ; birt, satisfied with his victory, ran off wMth the filly. Both the wild horse, and even the quagga, are a match for the tame horse, but do not easily corh- nience an attack. There are also ellands in the moun- tains ; but, besides rehbocks and a few bushbocks, very little game is seen in the plain. ^ The rain, which still continued to fall now and then •in drizzling showers, made the roads so slippery, that the oxen could scarcely drag the wagons up any ascent^ and w^e were thankful that this weather had not over- taken us while we were yet in the kloof. After a ride of three hours through a dull and naked country, we descended into a glen called HunyklifF Kloof. On an eminence to the left, lies a farm, belonging to a German of the name of Krieg. He received us kindly, and insisted on our partaking of his dinner, which was just ready to be served up. Never have I rehshed a dish of bean-soup more than in this forlorn place. To me it was quite new. This man had travelled through a great part of the north of Europe, and was at length persuaded by some crimps at Hamburg, to enter into the Dutch East- India Company's service. He described the situation of their sailors to have been most deplorable, and the atten- tion paid to their health and comfort so deficient, that no less than one hundred and forty men had died on board the ship he served in, during the voyage. He was thank- ful to be released by being left at the Cape in the sick- house ; and by degrees recovering, his industry put him in possession of this erf^ a name given to a small lot of ground, not being a complete farm. I purchased of him a hat, made by one of his slaves, of a Water-plant called palmite, which was an excellent piece of workmanship. We left this hospitable cottage about two o'clock, and continued our route through the glen to the Gowritz river. Brother Schmitt, Stein^ and I, walked to the farm-house, about a musket shot from the road, and ^56 JOURNAL OF A. found a friendly family at dinner, who immediately in-^ vited us to partake of their humble meal, but we had dined. They seemed to be poor people, and the object of our visit was not attained. We could purchase neither butter, fowls, eggs, nor a spann of oxen. The latter were dearer by five dollars per head than in Uitenhagen district. On reaching the banks of the river, we over- took Lebrecht Aris with our new purchase, and on the river side, saw Johannes coming across the heath with the oxen left at George. He brought me a most obliging letter from Mr. Van Kervel, regretting his absence in Plettenberg Bay, and desiring, that if we returned by George, we would con- sider his house as our home. This he had left with the secretary, Mr. Stopforth, to be delivered to me at my expected arrival at George. The cattle-keeper had suffered our Gnadenthal oxen to stray, and Johannes was obliged to follow five of them as far as Kayman's Gat. Not far from us, on the steep bank of the river, be- tween twenty and thirty baboons, large and small, sat watching our movements. Marcus approached towards them, cracking his long whip, when the old dams took up their young, some in their mouths, others on their backs, and all scrambled up the steep with astonishing swiftness. Some had one young one in their mouth, and another sitting on their backs. The shores of the Gowritz river are covered with bushes, for about two miles in breadth. Many large aloes mixed with, and rising above them, showed their magnificent radiant crown of scarlet flowers to much ad- vantage. In the evening, by moonlight, we reached Mr. Lombard's farm, where we meant to take up our night's lodging. We went to the house, in which we heard laughing, clapping of hands, and other tokens of merri- ment. Our humble knock was often repeated, before it procured us admission. Now general silence ensued. After giving a proper account of ourselves, we requested to know, whether we might have a room to sleep in, which was answered in the affirmative, yet with hesita- tion enough to prove, that we were not welcome guests. This was also plainly to be traced in the countenances of VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA« 257 the women, who did not speak a word, but eyed us with fallen looks, as intruders, spoiling sport, and perhaps dis- turbing some family festivity. Hearing, therefore, that the Veldcornet's house was only one hour's distance, and the moon shining bright, we determined to leave the merry party to enjoy their frolics, and drove off. The women could not dissemble their joy at our departure^ but dismissed us with a hearty horse-laugh. We reached the Veldcornet's place about half past nine, and accidentally stopped at the dwelling of his part- ner, an Irishman, Mr. John Miller. Late as it was^ he and his wife rose, and did every thing in their power to show that we were welcome. Milk, dried peaches, eggs, and cold meat, were provided, and an empty room appropriated for our sleeping-place. Irish hospitality was exerted in full vigour, even here in South Africa; and if some of the Africans themselves were inoculated with it, it would do them no harm* 5th. After a quiet night's rest, we found oxen provi- ded by the Veldcornet, got breakfast, paid a visit to the latter in his own house, and procured several articles of provision for ourselves and our Hottentots. Our Irish host left nothing undone, that he thought would be a benefit to us. He has lived twenty-five years in this country. The mountains present here a very magnificent out- line. They are crowned with rocks of singular forms. Nothing particular occurred, till we reached the KafTre Kuyls Revier, where we halted on its banks. Some of us crossed the river, to visit the farmer, but he was ab- sent, and his farm and mill in dirty plight. From hence, passing by the farm of Mi\ Cobus Du rreez, we hastened to the Veldcornet's place on the Klein Vat Revier. Our reception by the men was civil, but the women behaved towards Sister Schmitt and our whole party with de- termined coolness. The mistress of the house had a most stentorian voice, and in ordinary conversation kept up a continual bawl. As the Veldcornet's brother pos- sessed the same strength of lungs, the uproar was great, while she at one table, and he at another, were exerting their utmost powers to entertain their friends. It was 33 2j8 journal of a a novel scene, and we retired into our chamber, stunned with the noise ; but as it blew and rained hard all night, we were thankful for a room, even in an inhospitable dwelling. 6th. When we rose in the morning, no notice was taken of us. Sister Schmitt, for once, did not succeed, by her conciHating manners, in winning the affections of the turbulent housewife. The dragoons, quartered here, had a miserable hole to sleep in, and described the Veldcornet's dislike of the English and of missionaries to be very great. Oxen having been ordered at the next station, we em- ployed our two spanns, both of which had arrived during the night, to convey us thither. The Hottentots had again some trouble to make our young oxen submit to the yoke, but managed it with their usual dexterity. Wheii subdued, they behaved well, and notwithstanding the rain had made the road, which was a greasy clay^ almost as slippery as ice, they brought us, about noon, to the farm of our old friend, Mr. P. Du Preez. By the way, we remembered our breakfast in the vale of v«U tures, and several pleasant and useful conversations, which passed between us, about two months ago. We found a large party at the house, but not the worthy fa- ther of the family. His son received us kindly, and we were invited to dinner. The parents were gone to Zvvel- lendam, to attend the sacrament. A report having been spread, that the rivers had swollen, we hastened to cross the Duivenhoeks Revier, at Mr. Lombard's farm, which we did without any trouble. Calling on our old friend, Mr. Lombard, he and his fami- ly used all their eloquence to prevail upon us to spend the night at their house, but as it was yet early, and feeling impatient to get home, we made but a short stay; and passing by the next farm, reached a place on the Schlan- gen Revier after sunset, to which we repaired for lodg- ings, the night being cold. The master of the house, having purchased a quantity of arrack from the wreck of the Arniston East-Indiaman, stranded on the coast near Cape Aguillas, was about to set off in the morning, on a trip into the interior, and to VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 259 Graaf Rejnet, to dispose of it, in barter lor oxen and other articles of trade. Thej call this, going op de tocht. Two wagons were ready packed, into which the family had retreated, to be ready to start early in the morning. The house, therefore, ^^as at our service, and, indeed, but just large enough to hold us, without the family; for, be- sides a little dark kitchen, in which lay tw^o or three slaves, it had only two rooms, not much larger than clo- sets. William Sluiter's psalm-book lying on a shelf, and an old pewter coffee-pot, appeared to be the only move- ables left in the house; for the few articles, which serve them at home, were also their travelling equipage. We did not see one of the family, to thank them for the use of their house, as they were yet fast asleep in their wagons, when we set out, before daybreak. 7th. We passed through a country, where formerly that beautiful antelope, the buntebock, was found in great numbers. The destruction made among them has caused the Governor to prohibit the shooting of them, under a penalty of five hundred rix-dollars. They are therefore again multiplying, and we saw several of them, not far from the road. They are very stately-looking animals. Ostriches also made their appearance, and were followed, but without success. The mountains, to our right, being by degrees disen- cumbered of clouds, afforded us a most agreeable pros- pect. About two o'clock, we reached Mr. Buissini's farm on the Bueffeljagd's Revier, and hoped to have been able to get to Zwellendam that night ; but the river had swollen, and was not fordable. The people treated us with civility, and we spent the evening in a variety of useful employments. Mr. Melville, however, anxious to get home, and to meet his .family as soon as possible, left us here, swam across the river with his horse, and pro- ceeded through Zwellendam to Gnadenthal. The wolves howled dreadfully, and we were afraid, lest our oxen, running loose on the waste, might be attacked in the night ; but on the 8th, Early, they were all brought safe to the yojie. On examination, the river had fallen sufficiently to allow 260 JOURNAL OF A US to venture to ford it. For about a quarter of a mile in breadth its banks are covered with thorn, and other bushes. Every thing likely to suffer by wet being put upon the seatsof the wagons, we entered the river. The passage is not easily found by persons not acquainted with its bed, as, unless an island in the midst of the stream is doubled on the right side, there is danger of getting into deep holes and oversetting. We were rather under some ap- prehension, as to the strength of our cattle. The Gna- denthal oxen in the baggage-wagon w^ere weak, and the pew spann young, and not used to cross so large a river, the stream of which was very rapid and strong. Mar- cus also, having once, in crossing the Bueifeljagds Revier, at this very place, overset, and lost seven oxen, express- ed some fears ; but, by God's mercy, we reached the op- posite shore in safety. Poor Rambler, our faithful dog, who had been our companion and pet during this whole journey, happened to be left behind, but swam across, following the wagons by the same circuitous course round the island. For this exertion, he was rewarded with a larger portion of meat than usual. The weather con- tinuing fair, w^e much enjojed the view of the Zwellen- dam range of mountains, with their peaked, square, and round tops, deep gullies, and w^oody kloofs, which ap- peared to great advantage, illumined by a bright morn^ ing sun. About noon we arrived at the drosty. The landdrost and his lady received us w^ith their wonted kindness, and, by their hospitality, made us feel quite at home with them. After dinner, we accompanied Mr. Buissini on a visit to the clergyman, lately appointed to this living, who but lately arrived from Holland. With him we went to see the church. It is a convenient building, in form of a cross, without a steeple. The organ, being but small, and out of repair, stood in the vestry. Government have not as yet done much towards the support of the ecclesiastical establishment in this colony, of which many complain, thinking it neither consistent with their usual liberality, nor with that union, which, under British do^ VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 261 minion, exists between church and state. I believe it would tend much to concihate, and stop the mouths of the disaffected, if the Government at home should think fit to authorize more assistance to be given towards its maintenance. In the evening:, Brother Schmitt was desired to deliver a discourse to the Hottentots and slaves belonging to the family; which he did, much to their edification. They expressed their gratitude in lively terms. The moon shone bright till midnight, when, most unexpect- edly, a storm of wind arose, black clouds covered the mountains, and the w^eather underwent a total change. 9th. Our generous host and hostess insisted upon our taking an English breakfast with them, before we left Zwellendam, though we felt rather in haste to get across the Breede Revier, before the heavy rain had swelled its waters. Having received every possible mark of attention from the landdrost and his lady, w^e took leave about ten o'clock. In passing, we called upon Mr. Koster, who went out as a missionary under the direction of the Mis- sionary Society in London, and had been both at Bethels- dorp and Latakkun; but afterwards, with a view to a more independent maintenance, commenced business in this place as an apothecary and surgeon, and now sup^ ports himself and his family with credit : at the same time holding meetings with the Hottentots and slaves, and endeavouring to do the work he was called to, though no longer directed and supported by the Society. It rained now so hard, that we made all haste to reach the Breede river. It is crossed by a ferry. The cattle, all but the shaft oxen, being unyoked, are driven into the river, and swim across. On landing, the road was rendered so slippery by the rain, that, with every exer- tion, ten oxen could not drag the wagon up the steep as^ cent, but frequently fell down. Both spanns were neces- sary to bring each wagon to the level. No attention seems to be paid to the road, which might very easily be cut down, so as to make the approach to the water more convenient. In the evening, we reached a farm near the Sonderend. belonging to a Mr. Heiman, where 262 JOURNAL OF A we met with a hospitable reception, being recommended by the landdrost. Our host had formerly been in the in- terior, and speaking of the wild buiFalde, mentioned a singular stratagem, practised by that fierce animal, when hunted in the woods. It runs forward, till it is out of sight. The huntsman follows its l^rack, assured that the animal is before him. Meanwhile, entering the underwood, it returns part of the way, under cover of the bushes, waiting in ambush for its unwary pursuer, who finds himself suddenly attacked in flank, and some- times loses his life in the conflict. 10th. We crossed the place, where, on the 7th of March, we had suffered so much from the heat, as to make us call it the Hot Outspann, got fresh oxen at Veldcornet Van Eckstein's, and reached the ford about two o'clock. The water was too deep to pass through it. The wagons having been emptied of their loading, and empty casks placed within, to buoy them up, they were floated across. The oxen swam, and the travellers and baggage went over in a small boat. The weather favoured us, and we reached Mr. Van Helsland's hospi- table mansion in the afternoon, without any harm to our goods by water or rain. His lady was gone to Cape- town, but we spent a very agreeable evening in his com- pany. 11th. Rising early, we walked for some time about the premises. The mountains present themselves here in all their grandeur. Mr. Van Helsland made me at- tentive to a singular plant, called Vlachdorn, or Flat-thorn. Its leaves lie horizontally, close to the ground, forming a kind of star. They are studded with small thorns or prickles. From the centre is- sues a naked stem, ordinarily about a foot in length, with a small flower. Its root, like the roots of many plants and bushes in this country, is disproportionately thick, and strikes deep into the ground, like a carrot. A decoction of it is considered an efficient remedy against the stranguary in cattle, a distemper of which many die, at a season of the year when a certain herb, ripening among the common grass, is supposed to be the cause of it. Brother Schmitt knew it, as used by the Hottentots VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 263 in the cure of similar disorders in man, but Mr. Van Helsland told us, that he had saved twenty oxen last year, who must otherwise have died of that terrible disorder. About half past nine, we left Bock Revier, and pro- ceeded with Mr. Eckstein's oxen to a place beyond Har- tebeestkraal, where we again met our own. The moun- tains increase in singularity of shape, and picturesque com- binations, the nearer we approach to Gnadenthal. When we bad arrived in the neighbourhood of Mrs. Giebeler's farm, we saw about a hundred Hottentots on foot and on horseback, coming to meet us, headed by the missionaries Leitner and Lemmerz, with Mr. and Mrs. Melville and two children. It was truly affecting to hear the ex- pressions of sincere joy and gratitude for our safe return, which burst upon us from old and young ; and we all joined in humble thanks to God, our Saviour and Pro- tector, whose mercies unto us during the whole journey, had been every morning new. About three o'clock we entered Gnadenthal, and the renewed impression made upon my mind, by the view of this charming place, ac- companied by all the reflections on its origin, aim, and progress, filled my eyes again with tears of gratitude to God, for such a visible display of his mercy and power. While we were at dinner, a large company of Hottentots assembled before the dining-room, and sung a hymn of praise to the Lord, for having brought us safe home again. In the usual evening-service, the whole congre- gation joined in our thanksgivings. 264 JOURNAL OF A CHAPTER XVIL Gnadenthal. Account of Peter Batje. Hottentots^ mode of tanning. Appeal in behalf of the poor. Mr. Melville'^s plan of Gnadenthal. Regulations proposed by the Hot- tentots for the prevention of disorder. Appointment of overseers. Approval of JUr. Fraiienfelder^ deputy land- drost of Caledon. Mr. Melville and Schmitfs return to the Cape. Recovery of a long-lost parcel of letters. Statutes of the congregation. Walks about the settlement. Instance of discipline. The Lord'^s Supper on Whitsun- day. Remarks on the Bi^ethren^s manner of preaching. Expression of affection by the Hottentots. The Cutlery. Account of Philippus Appell. A Hottentofs attempt to obtain the captaincy of Hesqua tribe. Conversation with Captain Koopman about Hottentot'^ s Land. Prepare to leave Gnadenthal. May 12th. On our return to Gnadenthal, I found letters from England and from Capetown, which afforded me agreeable information concerning the well-being of mj family and friends. A packet of letters from Labrador, which ought to have arrived before I went into the inte- rior, was missing. Being Sunday, the services at church were as usual, and several parties of Hottentots, both men and women, came during the day to bid us welcome. 13th. In the afternoon. Brother Leitner accompanied me on a walk down the west-side of the valley, to see a place, formerly belonging to a Hottentot, Peter Batje. He had planted many fruit and other trees, and made a good garden on the premises. His wife was a woman of superior intellect, and an exemplary Christian, and kept the place in excellent order. After her death, he seemed to lose all his former good qualities, and took to drinking. No admonitions had any effect, and as his house and premises lay at some distance from the other dwellings, and in a by-path, leading to Robyntjes Kraal, young people of dubious characters, both Hottentots and boors, began to make it a place of rendezvous, and resort- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 265 ed to it at night, taking advantage of a situation which eluded immediate detection. Thus it became a haunt of ^sorderly persons, and Peter received warning to quit. He refused to leave the place, and gave the missionaries much trouble. Notice was therefore sent to the Veld- cornet, who expelled him. Since that time, the premises have not been occupied, the missionaries fearinr, that they might be turned to the same use, if let to improper persons, and the Hottentots being, in general, too poor to keep them m repair. We spent part of this day in conierence. "^ 1 ah. I walked with Brother Schmitt to the Caffre Kraal, and engaged a CaiFre, Ernest Apolli, to tan and dress some tjger and other skins 1 had brought with me irom the mter.or. This is done by spreading them on the grass, covenng them with sheep's fat, strewing a species of chalk over them, and with a sand-stone, by a circular motion of the hand, rubbing them, till the skin becomes as soft and pliable as wash-leather. The hair remains undisturbed. Any laceration by shot or other violence, they contrive to mend with great neatness, so as hardly to be perceived. I wrote to-day to Mr. Von Buissini, the landdrost of Zwellendam, in behalf of the poor, who cannot possibly pay the new poll-tax of five rix-dollars per man. The tax seemed to be levied without any discrimination, or proportionate distribution. I was the more anxious to do away any impression unfavourable to the present Government, as I have, to my sorrow, perceived in the minds of many people in the interior, considerable aliena- tion from that attachment to the English, which, in the beginning, seemed sincere, but has suffered much, proba- bly from misapprehension, as they are not acquainted with English forms, nor easily turned from their old cus- toms. I have been credibly informed, that there is not much difference as to the amount of their contributions towards the public expenditure; but they have very imperfect ideas of commutation. 15th and Itith. Mr. Melville had kindly undertaken to make a correct plan of the whole settlement of Gna- 266 JOURNAL OF A denthal, which he executed in the most finished manner, with uncommon accuracy and neatness. I7th. A boor^ whose house is not far off, and a sink of every abomination, came to Gnadenthal on business. Father Marsveld addressed him on the diabolical de- light he finds in seducing our unsteady young people to drunkenness, and the commission of all manner of lewd- ness, when at work at his farm. He is said to live in his cellar, to be near to his idol, the brandy-cask, and sel- dom sober. He had not a word to say in his own defence^ but immediately quitted the place. This morning we desired the five Hottentots, who had accompanied us into the interior, to inform us what re- ward they expected for their trouble. Their remarks would have done credit to the most disinterested and ge- nerous hearted Europeans. As it was but just that they should reap the benefit of their labours, and be recom- pensed for their uniform good behaviour, by which they did honour to their Christian profession, we gave them about as much again as the sum with which they had declared themselves satisfied, not wishing to take advantage of their willingness to serve a good cause, exerted at the expense of the duties they owed to their families. In the evening, we met, to confer about a proposal, made by the Hottentots themselves, in consequence of the disorders before alluded to, which in so large a settle- ment cannot be prevented, without strict attention and watchfulness. It may be supposed, where there are many young people, that not all of them are willing to tread in the steps of their Christian parents, but rather disposed to follow the ways of the world, and to give free vent to their unruly passions. To keep them in order had sometimes proved a \ery difficult task to the parents, who were unable to defeat the attempts conti- nually made by unprincipled white people, and others, to entrap the unwary. During my journey into the interior, several chapel- servants had waited upon Father Marsveld, who, by com- mon consent, acts the part of Justice of the Peace in the settlement, and expressed a wish, that a company of Brethren might be appointed to maintain order through- out the village. This was particularly necessary during VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 267 the evening-services, and at night, to prevent slaves and others, who have no business here, from entering the houses, and keeping company with the idle and dis'- solute. The Hottentots proposed, that the missionaries should choose men, approved for their good behaviour, and re- spected by the people in the village, to be nominated opzieners, (overseers.) They should then mention to the chapel-servants the names of those whom they had chosen, when they would acquaint their teachers with the general opinion conceived of each. As they had ap- pealed to me, I approved and recommended the measure. A list was then prepared of fifty-four men, chiefly fathers of families, acknowledged to be capable of holding such an office. The Hottentots had also suggested that the deputy-landdrost of Caledon, Mr. Von Frauenfelder, should be requested to give his sanction to such a regu- lation of police. Though we always expect tares to grow up with the wheat, yet we may trust, that such exertions may be made, as will, by the Lord's mercy, keep them down, and prevent their choking the good seed. 19th. Brother Schmitt preached, and in the evening, both he and Mr. Melville, with their families, set out on their return to the Cape. A large party accompanied them to the Sonderend. I was this afternoon present at the baptism of three children, of from one to three years old. It was con- ducted nearly in the same manner as that of adults. At night I felt unwell with a violent cold, and on the 2{)th5 for the first time, did not rise at the stroke of tlie bell, nor attended the service in the chapel. The greatest anxiety was shown on the part of the missionaries, that nothing might be neglected for my relief To Sister Leitner I owe the benefit I received from a decoction of elder-flowers and bukku-leaves, used here to promote perspiration. 24th. Having made a report of the before-mentioned plan of appointing overseers (opziener) to the deputy- landdrost, Mr. Von Frauenfelder, I received to-day a very satisfactory answer from him, fully approving of 268 JOURNAL OF L the measure, and promising every assistance in his power. 25th. Though I still felt the effects of the cold, yet I persevered in taking my usual walks, and to-day went, with Brother Lemmerz, to the top of the lower hills be- hind the Caffre Kraal, from whence the chief part of the stones, used in laying the foundation of the new house, had been brought. They are strongly impreg- nated with iron. Large blocks lie scattered all over these hills, some covered with a lichen of a deep ver- milion-colour. We proceeded towards the foot of the great mountain, hoping to reach a stony kloof to the eastward of it, but were obliged to return, for want of time. By the way, we called at some Hottentots' hou- ses, and conversed with the inhabitants. In the after- noon, we rode to the Sonderend. 26th. To-day, thirty-two of the fifty-four men ap- pointed to be overseers, met, the remainder being en- gaged at the farms. They were addressed by Brother Leitner, and the nature of the commission, with its re- sponsibilities, explained to them. They declared them- selves wiUing to accept of it, and several of them spoke, with much good sense, of the necessity of providing for the maintenance of order in so large a place. Father Marsveld represented to them, how careful they ought to be, in accepting of, and holding this office, that their own lives and conversation should exhibit proofs of real conversion of heart, that what they recommended and required of others, might be enforced by good example. The letter addressed to me by the deputy-landdrost of Caledon was then read and explained, and they ex- pressed great thankfulness for the countenance to be given them by the magistrate. I received, to-day, a letter from the landdrost of Zwellendam, Mr. Von Buisslna, in which he generously accedes to my wishes respecting the poor at Gnadenthal, granting them cer- taia exemptions, and directing in what manner the de- claration of their disabilities must be made to the col- lee or of taxes. In the following days, I was busily engaged at home Tvitii writing letters, and business relating to the Mission. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 269 29th. I had been requested to draw up rules or sta- tutes, to be read to the congregation, at stated times, and particularly to new people, that they might know what was required of every one, who desired to become and remain an inhabitant of this place. For this purpose, I had a conversation with all the missionaries, and heard the remarks of each, made on every subject, connect- ed with the internal and external state of the settlement. From these, and from the regulations of the settlements of the Brethren in Europe, as detailed in Loretz's Ratio Discipline Fratrum, I compiled a set of rules, suited to the peculiar circumstances of this Mission. Having re- ceived the approbation of the missionaries, they were communicated and explained, first to the company of overseers, and afterwards, to the whole congregation, and agreed to with thankfulness. All promised obedi- ence to them, and some, who had not understood every particular instruction, in the following days came to ask explanation, to which they had been invited by the mis- sionaries. I was pleased with the simplicity and confi- dence many of them showed on this occasion. 30th. I took a walk to the hill behind the Beastkraal, from whence a good view of the church, the missionaries' gardens, the burial-ground, the kloof, and the great mountain, presents itself. While I was making my sketch, clouds came rolling from the north, through the kloof, and enveloped the lower region of the mountain, the different peaks on its summit appearing above them. 3Jst. For some time the oaks, poplars, and other fo- reign trees, had exhibited a beautiful variety of the richest autumnal tints, but to-day, the heavy rain and wind caused a great falling of the leaves, and, in a few days more, winter seemed to have assumed its reign. This afternoon, a young man, Francis H. was brought before us, to answer for his having struck another man's wife. He was expected to be very sulky, but confessed the charge, without an attempt to defend himself, and heard the sentence of exclusion from the meetings of the baptized people, with many tears. He was apparently not able to speak for grief, and it was with great rekic- tance that he retired, when dismissed. On such occa- 270 JOURNAL OF A sions, I generally remained a silent hearer, and found much to approve and admire in the manner in which Father Marsveld administered justice. But after Fran- cis was gone, I took the Hberty to observe, that, though he had confessed the charge brought against him, the party offended had not been present, to be examined respecting the occasion given for the offence, when pro- bably some circumstances might have been discovered, which would have caused the sentence to be less rigor- ous. It is not in the manner of the punishment that its severity is felt, so much as in the effect produced in the mind or feelings of the person receiving it. Most of the Christian Hottentots, negroes, or other converts from among the heathen, in our missionary settlements, would rather endure any corporeal chastisement, than be ex- cluded from the meetings of their class or division in the congregation. The missionaries, acknowledging the truth of these remarks, appointed a second hearing in Father Marsveld's room, in presence of two or three of their number, and a summons was sent to the woman, to meet the accused in the morning. June 1st. They both appeared before us. Here again I was witness to that great influence, which the missiona- ries will ever possess over the minds of their converts, while the latter are convinced, that all they do and di- rect, IS meant only for their good, and that even the se- verest reproofs proceed from the sincerest regard for their welfare. We now obtained a true account of the transaction, which, though in itself of small consequence, I relate, as an instance of the manner in which affairs of this nature are treated in our settlements. By a rule long established, every inhabitant is bound to make good the damage done by his cattle in his neigh- bour's grounds. To prevent such mischief, they are continually exhorted to keep their hedges and other fences in repair; the neglect of which operates against the complainant in awarding damages. The husband of this woman had suffered his horse to enter Francis's gar- den, and do considerable mischief. Francis complained, and the man agreed, that, to compensate for the damage done, he should have twenty or thirty cabbages, with VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA^ 271 which he was satisfied. On coming to claim them, he found the best of them cut off and carried away. He en- tered the house, and found only the wife at home, who answered to his remonstrance in a manner so affronting, that he gave the woman a push, not a blow, according to her own admission, when some high words passed be- tween them. On cross-examination, the woman confess- ed, that, hearing the bargain made between her husband and Francis, she had thought it no harm, to save as much of her husband's property as she could, and there- fore secured the best cabbages. The injustice of such deceitful conduct being represented to her, and that she deserved to be excluded, as v/ell as Francis, she seemed terrified, and offered to make any reparation in her powd- er. They were then, after some further exhortation, asked, whether they could heartily forgive each other. This they did with great sincerity, shaking hands, promi- sing never more to remember the offence given. The sentence, passed on Francis yesterday, w^as now revoked, and both expressed their thanks with great humility. 2d. Whitsunday. The services usual on this festival- day, were attended by the families of some farmers in the neighbourhood, and a large audience of Hottentots and slaves. In the evening, the Holy Sacrament was ad- ministered to about three hundred and fifty commu- nicants. This was the last time I was favoured to be present, and to assist at this sacred ordinance, in the church at Gnadenthal. When I entered and took my seat, and be- held the congregation sitting before me, in silent expec- tation of that great blessing, which attends the celebra- tion of this sacramental feast, instituted by our Lord him- self, in remembrance of His sufferings and death, I felt quite overwhelmed, and almost totally lost in contempla- tion. Nor were my feelings free from pain, when I re- flected, that, in a few days, I must leave this place and people, duty requiring, that 1 should not inuch longer in* dulge in the delight my abode at Gnadenthal had afford- ed to my mind, but proceed to Groenekloof, where I had more business to transact than at this place. I could not help drawing a comparison between the 272 JOURNAL or a condition of these Hottentots, and that of the poor, squa- lid, and ignorant wretches I had seen during my late journey. And these had been in the same state, but for the preaching of the Gospel. If this be not a miracle, wrought by the power of God alone, I know not what is ! Effects so striking may prove to all men, that it is not by enticing words of man's wisdom, nor by any human systems and contrivances, but by the preaching of the cross of Christ, in demonstration of the Spirit, that the heart of man is changed, and he is made a new creature. And, as I humbly hope, that, through the mercy of God, 1 have been taught to believe in Jesus, as my only trust and refuge in life and death, my faith was greatly strengthened, and my mind filled anew with assurance, that we are doing right, in determining " to know noth- ing amongst men, save Christ Jesus and Him crucified." Yet I do not wonder, that some good men reprove us for dwelling too much on this subject Its ejQTects are not ta be explained by the common rules of reasoning. Experi^ ence alone can justify the practice, as consistent witn the will and wisdom of God. Even to these poor Hottentots the words of St. Peter may be addressed : " Ye are come into Mount Zion, and to the city of the living God, and to Jesus, the Mediator of the new covenant, and to the blood of sprinkling." Though despised by most men, and often liable to err and fail, yet, as received and reconciled by Him, with whom there is no respect of persons, I felt myself unwor- thy to serve this congregation, whose attentive, devout deportment, and unaffected fervency of spirit is scarcely equalled in any Christian community. 3d. As Whit-Monday is celebrated in this colony, as in most parts of the continent of Europe, the usual service was performed at the church. In the afternoon, two adults, and two children, were baptized. After this solemnity, the chapel-servants came in a body to pay me a visit. Brother Leitner being interpre- ter, I had some very agreeable conversation with them. In the evening, the opzieners met, by appointment, in our dining-room, when the rules or statutes mentioned (p. 269,) were again read and explained. The remarks VISI'T to SOUTH AFRICA* ^73 ahdWed much good sense, and confirmed the opinion I have already conceived of the Hottentots, that they are, in general, more sensible, and possess better judgment, than most Europeans equally destitute of the means of instruction. 4th. Having heard that 1 intended next week to leave Gnadenthal, the Hottentots, both men and women, alone, or in parties, came to take leave of me, or rather to beg me not to leave them. Some said : "* You seem so much at home among us, that you had better go and fetch your wife and children and take up your abode in this place." I replied, that I thought I could do them more service by going to England, and reporting to my Brethren, what I had here seen and heard of the effects of the gospel, which would excite them to send out more teachers, to instruct those of their nation who were yet in darkness* When they perceived that nothing would prevail to de- tain me, many shed tears, saying, that as they must now return to the farms, they should see me tio more. Their behaviour towards me has, indeed, from the beginning, been most kind and affectionate, and if I happened not to be in my place at church, which, however, occurred only tw^o or three times, their inquiries after ray health were continued for three or four days successively. I w^as engaged part of this day with Brother Beinbrech, who has the charge of the cutlery and smithy. Fourteea Hottentots were employed in these branches of business. Their busy hammers, files, and polishing-wheel, made me often fancy myself living in a London street, and forget, that I was in a part of Africa, but lately a horrid and ! lonely desert. Room being wanted, both for stores and ifamily use, some arrangements were made, whicli were irendered practicable by the building of the new house, ito the satisfaction of all parties. This being the birthday of our venerable sovereign, •we remembered him in our prayers, according to the direction given by the apostle, 1 Tim. ii. 2, with thanks- giving, that under him, and a Government disposed to promote the interests of religion and virtue, we may lead a quiet and peaceable life, in all godliness and honesty. 5th. A Hottentot, Philip Appell, who had returne(} # / / 274 JOURNAL OF A from the interior, was summoned before Father Mars- veld and three other Brethren, to be informed that he couid not be permitted to live at Gnadenthal. This was a new case, which involved a difficult question. Philip had formerly belonged to the congregation, and, for some time after his baptism, conducted himself with propriety.! His wife was a woman of a very turbu- lent spirit, and fiad held her former husband incomplete subjection. When she married Philip, she made several attempts to ti-ieat him in the same manner; but after long patience, he at length sought his remedy in his superior strepgth, and every now and then their house was a scene of confusion and uproar. Added to this, they both began to indulge in liquor, and exhortations being fruitless, he was ordered to quit the settlement. His first expijlsion seemed to produce within him, a show of sincere repentance, and he was so earnest in his en- treaties for admission, and promises of amendment, that he was permitted to return. This happened twice. But when he fell ^ third time into the same transgression, he refused to depart, and became a terror to the peaceable inhabitants. The missionaries had now no means of ridding themselves of such disturbers of the public peace, but by an application to the landdrost. That magis- trate was very ready to lend his aid, and ordered Philip instantly to leave Gnadenthal, and not to enter the set- tlement within a twelvemonth, on pain of imprisonment. But this was not the intention of the missionaries and their congregation, who dreaded his return. Whenever the subject occurred in conversation. Father Marsveld, knowing the cliaracter of the man, assured us, that on the very day on which the year of his banishment was completed, he would make his appearance; which he did accordingly, furnished with a handsome testimonial from the farmer by whom he had been employed. Though F had heard much to his disadvantage, I could not help admiring the address of this Hottentot. He was a man of superior intellect, great bodily strength, six feet high, and had an imposing appearance. To Father Marsveld's just and severe representation of the wicked conduct both of himself and his wife, disgraceful VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. / 275 I to the Christian name given him in bap/ism, hurtful to the youth in the congregation, annoying /in the extreme to ail the iniiabitants, he made a reply, tull of contession and contrition, not pretending to defend hijrnself, but only craving mercy, patience, and another trial, with so much eloquence, that to us, who were novices in these things, he appeared truly sincere, and deserving of attention. We were rather surprised to hear Fatli^r iMarsveld an- swer, with unrelenting severity, to the following effect: *^ This speech we have now heard a third time, not one word of which we can admit to be true; Do you mean a third time to deceive us with hypocritical pretences and professions, which proceed not from your heart, but are made for your own convenience; because you feel the effect of the disgrace you have incurred with your own people, and throughout the w^hole country, by yofjr abominable practices, which you now seek to wipe off, by being again received as an inhabitant of Gnadenthal ? But your contrivances are vain. You are dreaded by the whole congregation, and there are few who would forofive us^ if we were to admit so dangerous a man to dwell in this place ; out of which, drunkenness, lewd- ness, brawling and fighting, shall, by God's blessing upon our present regulations, be totally expelled, together with every one, who does not choose to lead a life con- sistent with Christian principles." I thought it was all over with Philip, whose countenance showed the deep- est conviction and humility. But I was mistaken. He granted every word the venerable missionary had spo- ken, to be true, and that he deserved to be suspected of falsehood and pretence, but proceeded to make such protestations of his sincerity, and the remorse he felt, on account of his former transgressions, that Father Mars- veld, perceiving by our looks, that we w^ere disposed to relent, ordered Philip to withdraw, that we might con- sult together in private. He then observed, that he did not wonder at our being moved by the Hottentot's speech, since we were yet unacquainted with that par- ticular character, but that, if a real change was wrouglit in the man's heart, it would appear to him one of the greatest miracles he had ever heard of, or seen. The 376 JOURNAL OF A result was, that Philip was permitted to stay till Monday, when we should inform him of our decision. Mean- while, the opzieners were convened, and the case laid before them. The missionaries supposed, that they would unanicaously protest against his re-admission, when, to our surprise, they all pleaded for a third trial. We afterwards discovered, that Philip had informed him- self of their appointment, and waited upon each, when, hj his penitential declarations, he had quieted their minds and moved their compassion. On Monday morning, he appeared before us, to hear our determination, being directed to bring his wife with him. She was addressed by Father Marsveld in a suit-, able manner, but looked very sulky, and made no reply, Philip then spoke to her in our presence, confessing hi^ own sins, and that he had often provoked her bad be- haviour, by his conduct, asked her pardon, and exhorted her to take warning, and to pray to God to convert her heart, that they might in future avoid giving such offence to a Christian people, and such pain to their teachers. She seemed to relent, and promised obedience and sub- mission to the rules of the place. They now obtained leave to erect a hut, and cultivate some garden-ground, to be appointed for them by Brother Leitner, but were told, that for the first breaking out of their former war- fare^ or the first symptoms of drunkenness and disorder, they would be expelled by the landdrost, never more to return. As long as 1 remained in Africa, no complaint was made against them, nor have I heard any since my re- turn, and we may hope, that the professions of Philip Appell have been sincere, and, by the grace of God, evinced their reality. He seemed particularly thankful to me^ though I had xiot interfered much in pleading his cause, and he accompanied me for several miles, when I left Gnadenthal. On this occasion, I could not but again notice that easy flow of speech so natural to many Hottentots, and which is indeed increased by Christian instruction; but, if not directed by the Spirit of tr'ith, may make a Hot- tentot, even without gcnuMe convers'on of heart, ap^ pear qualified to preach tc\ and teach others. Great VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 277 caution ought therefore to be applied, if it be thought proper, consistent with convenience or other considera- tions, to appoint any of them to that office. Hitherto the Brethren have not employed either Hottentots or negroes as assistants in the ministry, but only as visiters and chapel-servants. 6th. Having discovered the man who was the chief instigator of the uneasiness of the Hesqua people, in wishing to appoint a Captain of that tribe, in opposition to Captain Koopman, who is regularly appointed by Government, he was summoned and examined as to his late proceedings at Capetown, where he had waited on some members of the Government, and endeavoured to obtain the Captain's staff for his tribe. We told him, that, had he obtained it, he should immediately have quitted the settlement, and might have exercised his authority among the wolves and jackals, the only in- habitants at present in the Hesqua Kloof, where for- merly that tribe had its residence. That, also, the first disturbance he should occasion, would be punished with expulsion. After much prevarication, he was brought to confession, and promises of his future peace- able demeanour. 7th. I visited the girls' school, and heard some of them read very well. Dr. Bell's plan is followed as much as possible, but not in all its parts. Some have made tole- rable progress in writing. In the afternoon, 1 rode with Brother Lemmerz, across the Sonderend, to a hill beyond Badenhorst's farm. The river was so much swollen, that it was impossible to ford it without being wet. As the time of my departure drew near, the farewell- visits of the Hottentots became more frequent, and many parties of men, women, and children, followed each other during the day. In the evening, captain Koopman and two other Hot- tentots paid me a formal visit. They began the conver sation by expressing the regard and affection they felt for me, and their sorrow for my departure. Having made portraits of the two venerable Fathers, Marsveld and Schwinn, which lay on my table', they immediately 278 JOURNAL OF A knew them, and seemed delighted to see them ^' written dovvn on paper." Captain Ivoopman then said, that he had still something to observe about the land belonging to the Hottentots, in consequence of my having lately asserted, " that the land was given by Government to the Brethren^ lor the Hottentots, and that, if it had not been for the Mission, the Hottentots would have lost it all." He entered into a long demonstration to prove, that not only this land, but two neighboui'ing farms, w^hich he named, had, in old times, been Hottentots' land, being secured to one of his ancestors by some Dutch Governor, but to which ancestor, and by what Governor, he could not tell. He added, that there was now not land enough for pasture, and that if, according to my recommendation, still more were to be brought under tillage for fields and gardens, they must keep fewer cattle, and that, if those spots, which appeared fit for the rearing of corn, were ploughed and sown, they would be surrounded by pasture-ground, and the pro- duce trodden down by beasts. He therefore wMshed me to apply to the English Go- vernment, to restore to the Hottentots the two farms in question. Brother Leitner being interpreter, I explained to him, that the English Government must and would act justly; that they had already greatly favoured the Chris- tian Hottentots ; that what I said about the land being given " to the Brethren," for the Hottentots, was strictly true, for they had the right granted them of giving it to, or withholding it from, any Hottentot, at their discretion ; and that the occupation of it by the Brethren, as land- lords, was the only sure way of preserving it for the use of the Hottentots; for he must know, that but for the English Government, not only the two farms he men- tioned, but Bavians-kloof itself, would have been seized upon by some white landholder. Moreover, that the English Government could not in justice dispossess the farmers of their property, unless by purchase, which could not be expected. Brother Leitner then showed, that the Brethren had spent above a thousand rix-dol- lars, in securing land for the Hottentots, and could do VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 279 no more, since they received no interest or benefit what- ever from it. With these explanations they appeared quite satis- fied, but added some very sensible remarks on the pre- sent degraded state of their countrymen, v^ho lived with the boors, since all the country had been taken from them, and was possessed by intruders. I endeavoured to make them understand, " that though I by no means meant to justify such encroachment and robbery, yet they might, as Christian people, find some consolation in the reflection, that, had it not been for the occupation of their country by Europeans, they would have remain- ed in gross ignorance and darkness, and been ' led cap- tive by Satan at his will,' in the service of sin ; the consequence of which, even to the richest and most powerful nation, was misery both here and hereafter." We then explained to them the state of the negroes in the West Indies, who had not only lost their land and liberty, but were carried as slaves into a foreign country ; and yet many of those, who had received the gospel, now rejoiced in that which, to man, seemed the greatest misfortune, because it had been the means of preparing them, by faith in Jesus, for the possession of an inheritance incorruptible and eternal. They heard us with great attention, and, during the latter part of the address, tears filled their eyes, and they declared their thankfulness to God for their present privileges : adding, that in conversation among themselves, they fre- quently reminded each other of these benefits. It was to me a most interesting discovery, showing, that these poor people likewise reason about the rights of man, though with rather more coolness and good sense, than some among our English demagogues have done. 8th. To-day I was much engaged in making prepara- tions for my departure, and finished a farewell-address to the congregation, in Dutch, which I meant to read to them on Sunday. For though I had learned to read and pronounce this language tolerably well, I could not ven- ture to speak extempore in a public assembly. I read it on the 9th, in the afternoon, to a crowded audience, and was 280 JOURNAL aF A glad to hear, that it was well understood by the Hotteii- tots. When I had finished, and left the desk, Father Marsveld addressed the congregation, and offered up a prayer in my behalf. The pain felt at parting was, I believe, mutual ; nor would my feelings have suffered me to read my speech, had I not been obliged to pay as much attention to read- ing and right pronunciation, as to the subject itself. During the whole day, parties of Hottentots came into my room, to express their afifection, thanks, and good wishes. 1 0th., The weather being rainy, and every prospect of the rivers in the high mountains being impassable, I gave up my intention of going to Groenekloof by Rode- sand and Tulbach. The missionaries Clemens and Leitner, with Sister Leitner, having resolved to accompany me to Groene- kloof, our departure was fixed for the following morning. But hearing that it was no longer possible to pass the ford of the Sonderend, I confess I felt pleased with the prospect of delay; for my regret at leaving Gnadenthal and its worthy inhabitants was hourly on the increase. In the evening, the family met to take leave of me. I endeavoured, as well as I was able, to express to all, and each of them, the grateful sense I had, and shall ever retain, of the undissembled brotherly love and con- fidence which I enjoyed during my abode in this place, as likewise my view of the present state of the Mission, and my heartfelt, fervent, and never-ceasing desire and prayer, that a special blessing might rest upon the la- bours of each of the Brethren and Sisters employed in it, both now and in succession. Brother Clemens, the warden, in the name of all the missionaries, answered me in a most affectionate address. Of this last evening at Gnadenthal, I spent part with Father Schwinn, and part with Father Marsveld, in pleasant and profitable conver- sation. The state of Father Schwinn's health was very pre- carious. It did not appear as if we should much longer enjoy the services of this faithful labourer in the Lord's vineyard. Father Marsveld was above seventy years tlSlT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 281 old, and begins, in various ways, to feel the infirmities of age, but his spirit is lively, and both his fellow labourers, and the Hottentots, prayed that he might be preserved in health and Activity many years longer. CHAPTER XVIIL Departure from Gnadenthal. Acccnnpnnied by Hottentots and Missionaries. Warmbaths. Dr. Hassner loses his best slave. Caledon. Bontjeskraal. JVigh^s lodging at Servas de Kok'^s farm. Ford of the Botte Revier. Mn Uriels farm and inn. Battle of baboons. Bridge over the Palmite Revier. Hottentot-Hollands-Kloof. Brenk'^s Inn. Might spent at Mr. Delporfs farm. Remarkable mountains. Farms of Mr. Dirk Cloete^ Mr. JVeukirch^ and Mr. Bruckman. Ji Boor'^s opinion of the Caffres and Hottefitots. Arrival at Groenekloof Mr. Slabbert. Consultation about the new Church. Mr. Kotzee. Re- marks on intruders. Arrival at Capetown. Mr. Hoetz^s. villa. Return of my travelling companions to Gnaden- thal. Visit at JYewlands. Mr. Sebastian van Rhenen. Observations on Church-music. Return to Groenekloof June llth* I did not feel quite well, and had almost given up the hopes of being able to set out this morning, on account of the reported fulness of the Sonderend, when Solomon Pfeiffer, who had been sent to examine the state of that river, returned with the news, that it might be forded with great ease. We therefore prepared for the journey. After I had paid an early visit to the two venerable Fathers, Marsveld and Schwinn, in their rooms, the fami- ly breakfasted together in the dining-hall, and once more commended me and my fellow travellers to the grace and protection of God, in a short prayer by Father Mars- veld. Meanwhile, about two hundred Hottentots had assem- bled in the grove. All would press forward, and their eagerness onco more to shake hands and bid me farewell o 3G 282 JOURNAL OF A was so great, that a general scramble was avoided only by my calling to them, that I would not pass by any one, but admit them all in due order. At length we reached and entered the wagon, when they began, with one voice^ to sing their farewell-hymn. At this moment, I felt all resistance to my feelings give way. Never have I experienced a keener pang, on leaving any place, or any friends, to whom I was attach- ed. Gnadenthal is indeed a spot, where I have found myself so much at home, and where almost every object conspired to fill my mind with grateful remembrances and contemplations, that, though convinced of my duty to proceed to Groenekloof, where business of importance to that settlement demanded my presence, I found it ne- cessary to do violence to my feelings, to tear myself loose. But my spirit will often dwell in those hallowed groves, accompany the congregation into the house of prayer, attend them during their truly solemn assemblies, behold with affection and delight the pious labours of their teachers^ participate in their joys, their sorrows, and their cares, and enjoy an aftertaste of the heavenly comfort attending the administration of the holy sacra- ments, by the presence and power of our Lord and Sa- viour. The whole missionary family, and about a hundred and fifty Hottentots, small and great, on foot or on horseback, accompanied us beyond the Sonderend, as far as Baden- horst's farm, where, placing themselves in a semicircle^ they sang another farewell-hymn, and finally bade adieu. The Brethren Thomson and Lemmerz kept us company till we arrived at Mr. Klemm's, on Serjeants Revier. The Gnadenthal range of mountains was covered with snow, upon which the sun shone with great splendour. We reached the Warmbaths about five in the evening, but, to our sorrow, found our good friend. Dr. Hassner, very ailing. His spirits, however, revived, and we spent a pleasant evening at his house. 12th. In the morning, the doctor was better. He had met with a serious loss, by the death of a slave, who, besides being a useful and sensible servant, was a good joiner, and cost him three thousand rix-dollars. The VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 283 poor fellow seems to have been seduced to take too much liquor, fell from his horse into a ditch, and broke his back. After breakfast we set out, and called upon Mr, Von Frauenfelder, the deputy-landdrost of Caledon. He was glad to hear our report of the new regulations at Gna- denthal, and to relieve the poor of that place, by a di- rection from Mr. Von Buissini, who had most kindly at- tended to jmy representation. The landdrost delivered to me a letter froii) Colonel Bird, just arrived, in answer to my application made to his Excellency the Governor, for the possession of the land on the Witte Revier, which is granted, in terms most obliging. Our next visit was to the Rev. Mr Voss, the minister of Caledon. He showed us the church, which is a good, Klain building, and gave us some information respecting lessrs. Read's and Williams's visit to CafFraria, wheie they seemed to have met with encouraging success. From hence we proceeded to Bontjeskraal. On an eminence near the farm, I found a fine view of four ranges of mountains, those of Gnadenthal, the Zwarteir berg near Caledon, the Tower of Babel and its compa- nions, and the Great and Little Haue Hock. Our road, from this place to Mr. Servas de Kok's farm on the Botte Revier, lay over a barren waste. He received us drily, but gave us a good sup^per, good beds, and in conversation was friendly. 13th. We set out early, and forded the Botte Revier without difficulty. Formerly, rocks rendered this ford- ing-place almost impassable, but about a year ago, by a sudden inundation, earth and sand was carried down from the mountain in such quantities, that the rocks were covered, the holes filled up, and a good road made through the river. Mr. de Kok, however, was a great sufferer. His vineyards wer^ completely ruined, the water-course and mil! destroyed, and the well, which supplied the family, choked up. In about an hour, we reached the toll-house, at t!ie foot of the Haue Hoek, over which we had a pleasant walk of about three English miles, the morning beinjs" 284 JOURNAL OF A remarkably fine. We halted at Mr. Urie's farm. While dinner was preparing, we walked with our landlord into his grounds. He had laid out a large garden and vine- yard, and was now^ planting wood, and making other im- provements, by which, if he succeeds, his place will be- come a little paradise, in the midst- of a wilderness. The great Haue Hoek presents itself here, with many small peaks. Its rocks are the habitations of baboons, which, indeed, occupy the summits of all the neighbour- ing hills. Mr. Urie enteitained us with an account of a combat he had lately beheld, on the waste, adjoining his gardens, between a large herd of baboons from the Haue Hoek, and a party from the opposite range. It was maintained on both sides Avith great fury, and with horrid yells and barkings, when, suddenly, a stop w^as put to it, by an unfortunate jackal running in among them. The poor animal was seized by one party and thrown towards the other, then back again. His cries, added to those of the combatants, filled the air with the most discordant sounds, till the death of the intruder seemed to give the signal for a general retreat. Healing that the ford of the Palmite Revier was im- passable, we drove to the bridge. At the toll-house we found a miserable night's lodging, rose early on the 14th, and passed over the bridge, which is of wood, and the only bridge in all South Africa. It rests upon stone piers, thought sufficiently strong to resist the force of the stream, which sometimes, in the rainy season, be- comes extremely rapid and fierce, but was now nearly hid among palmite-plants and low bushes, growing in its bed. To prevent the wood-work from being washed off the piers in great floods, the timbers are fastened to them by strong chains, on the side of the waters descent. The bridge is furnished with railings, and on the floor- planks, the tliick spungy stalks of the palmite-plant are laid in abundance, partly to atford an easier passage for the bullock's feet, and partly to deaden the sound of the wood, by which they are apt to be frightened. Two wagoners had spanned out on the opposite bank, and both they and their dogs seemed much alarmed at our <^ar]y approach. The moori shone bright, and its re- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 285 flection upon the eastern ascent of the mountain, ^rhich is covered with decomposed quartz, frittered into white sand, gave it the appearance of a field covered with snow. In one place, the road is steep, and full of rocky ledges. The eastern approach to the top of Hottentot-Hol- lands-Kloof is guarded on each side bj fragments of rocks, thrown into a variety of fanciful groupes, and odd shapes. The road down the western declivity, though irremedia- bly steep, has been much improved by the English. The adjoining precipices are rugged in the extreme, but every practicable spot is covered with a profusion of cu- rious plants and shrubs. The sugar-bush grows here in great plenty, and, with its magnificent starry flower, adorns the wild region. At the top of the western de- scent, I noticed a vein of iron-stone, with sand-stone and indurated clay, of a reddish or violet colour, which forms the mass of that part of the hill, called the Rothe Hochte. Towards the bottom, all the fragments of rock (for there are no large masses visible) are of a coarse grit or granite. About nine, we reached Mr. Brenk's inn, where we were obliged to remain four hours, to let our poor famish- ed oxen enjoy some food and rest. At two, we proceed- ed, called at Mr. Morgel's farm, and reached Mr. Del- port's house at the Moddergat. Darkness and fatigue made us glad to find here a comfortable night's lodging. We -were all put into one room, where we had also the honour of having our host and a boy in the same dormi- tory with us. The good man went to bed with a pipe in his mouth. When he felt sleep coming on, he placed it in a chair, to be ready in the morning. Between two and three o'clock, he struck a light, without quitting his bed, and fell to smoking again. It proved, however, no annoyance, for there being no ceiling to the apartment, the volumes of smoke, which rose curling from his lips, had room to spread to the top of the roof. 1 5th. Our oxen having strayed far away, in search of food, we were detained some hours after dawn of day. 1 improved the time, in viewing a remarks^blo mountain. 28B JOURNAL OF A called the Helderberg or Simonsberg, belonging to the Stellenbosch range, the rocky summit of which exhibits a most singular variety of peaks and copulas. The village of Stellenbosch presents itself beautifully, with its groves, avenues, and plantations of fir and other trees. While the wagon followed slowly, I walked through some of its streets. We were hospitably received and entertained at Mr. Dirk Cloete's farm, and, in tl^ afternoon, contin- ued our route to Mr. Neukirch's house, where we met with a reception equally kind, and spent an agreeable evening. The house is new, and when completed, and the grounds improved by plantations and gardens, the situation promises to be one of the most pleasant in the whole country. Over the principal door, in a medallion, iare the words, "memento mori." w\ Our driver, Marcus, and the leader, had meanwhiloP driven the oxen to a feeding-place at some distance. The poor beasts were so much fatigued, that we hardly expected them to bring us to-day to Groenekloof. We proceeded through an uninteresting country, to an out- spann-place, near Diep Revier, where Sister Leitner pro- I vided us both w^ith breakfast and dinner. Between these ^ two meals, I walked about the waste, and found some situations, from which the Stellenbosch hills are seen to advantage, as likewise the Table-Mountain, and the lower ranges of the Tygerberg, Koeberg, and Paerde- berg. I found some odd varieties of iron-stone. Thus employed, I seldom found time to hang heavy upon my hands, during the many tiresome delays by out- spanning and other circumstances, connected with an Af- rican journey; and may I never be wanting in gratitude to God, for granting to me such health, liveliness and ac- tivity of mind, during this whole period, insomuch that I never felt disposed to take an African nap after din- ner. Our evening worship consisted in singing several verses in the wagon, which I should not notice, were it not to record the behaviour of the Hottentots, who, though before obliged by continual shouting and cracking of whips, to keep our wearied cattle from stopping, or VISIT to SOUTH AFHICA,^ 287 even lying down, v^alked quietly and devoutly near tliQ wagon, and left the poor beasts to take their time. We reached the miller Bruckman's bouse at eight o'clock, and found good quarters. A loquacious country- man, who had come in to spend the night, treated us with his opinions on the state of the Hottentots and CafFres, whom he considered as the Canaanites of this land, des- tined to be destroyed by the white people, who were the Israelites of God! It is strange, that the same notions haunted the brains of many wicked fanatics in North America, about seventy years ago, who, on that account, opposed the Missions of our Church among the Indians, as may be seen in LoskiePs history. 17th. We did not reach Groenekloof till eleven o'clock. The day was spent in visiting some of the famihes, and making various arrangements. 18th. We were visited by Mr. Slabbert, the proprietor of the Langefonteyn farm. Vaillant has made honour- able mention of this family, and I was glad to become ac- quainted with a man who, in many respects, is superior to most so-called Jifricaner^ in intellect and liberality of sentiment. Speaking of Vaillant, he was rather surprised to hear, that his own account states him to have been a man of an undaunted spirit, whereas he passed with the Slabberts for a very timid and fainted-hearted traveller. 19th. We conferred together about the site of the new church, and made a calculation of the wood required for that, and the repairs of one of the ont-house^, which had been burnt some years before the missionaries were put in possession of the premises by the Earl of Caledon> Sister Schmitt had, at her own expense, fitted up one end of it for a school-room, but now the increase of the establishment rendered more dwellings necessary. 1 likewise resolved to accompany my Gnadenthal friends to Capetown, with a, view to transact some business relating to this setdement Avith His Excellency the Governor. 20th. We set out after dinner, and arrived, about seven, atBlauberg, Mr. Kotzee's house, where we spent the night. We soon perceived that our visit was not very agreeable, for Mr. Kotzee's mother-in-law being so 288 JOURNAL OF A ill, that her death was shortly expected, and his wife likewise unwell, it was no wonder that such intrusion was not well-timed. Not every rnan has the gift of im- mediately smothering unpleasant feelings, when stran- gers interrupt the usual course of the family, by com- ing unannounced, and demanding quarters for the night. Nor can the inmate know, whether these intruders may not, as is sometimes the case, fill the house with noise and restlessness. Had the slave, whom we first ac- costed, informed us of the state of the family, we should have quietly remained in our wagons, notwith- standing the general invitation formerly given by Mr. Kotzee to the missionaries at Groenekloof, when he visited that place. However, after the first expres- sions of displeasure had passed by, he behaved towards us with the greatest civility and hospitahty. His house is one of the best in the country, and elegant in its ar- rangements and furniture. Every thing in it is conducted with great order. 21st. After breakfasting with the family, we left Blau- berg at eight o'clock. This being the shortest day, we were glad that the weather turned out fine, and had as pleasant a ride to Capetown as the dreary country and sandy road would allow. The tediousness of the jour- ney around the bay is considerably reheved by the mag- nificent view of the Table-Mountain audits associates, on a fine day. We arrived at Mrs. Disandt's house about two o'clock^ and soon had the pleasure to see our wordiy friends Mr. Hanck and Mr. Melville. I also found here Mr. Edward Grant, from Bombay, with whom I contracted a very agreeable acquaintance. 22d. This day was spent in visiting friends, old and new. I likewise increased my collection of horns, by the purchase of those of a koodoo, gnou, hartebeesl, and gemsbock. 23d. We attended divine service in the Lutheran church. The hymns are sung in German, but the ser- mon delivered in Dutch. I did not understand much of ihe Rev. Mr. Hesse's discourse, though, by this time, I am tolerably well acquainted with Gnadenthal Dutch. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 289 This is a very convenient variety of that ancient lan- guage, and much to be recommended ; for as our mission- aries have learned Dutch, chiefly by books, and from each other, their dialect is so well mixed with German, both as to words and pronunciation, that it is easily understood, both by a person acquainted with the German language only, and by a native Dutchman, ignorant of German y and surely no one will deny, that a language so construct- ed, that of two different nations, each may understand it, is a most desirable medium of conveying ideas, which is the proper use of speech. 24th. At nine in the morning, Brother Leitner and his wife accompanied me, by invitation, to the villa of our friend, Mr. Hoetz, who sent his carriage for us. The morning was delightful. The villa is situated about three English miles from Capetown, on the road to Newlands, at the back of the Table-Mountain. From the gardens, the view of the house, with so magnificent a back-ground, is charming. Its elegant portico is half hid by the branches of large trees, with which the premises abound. Many singular varieties of the aloe and Indian fig are found in the gardens. The plantations of oak and firs, between the house and the mountain, are extensive, and kept in good order by Mr. Hoetz, who took the trouble to walk with us through the greatest part of his grounds. About a fortnight /igo, a male tyger was shot near the back-wall, the skin of which was remarkably beautiful. Considering the quantity of cover, both of rock and wood, which tygers and other ravenous beasts might find in this wild region, it is surprising that not more of thern are seen and taken. We returned to town about twelve, when I went to the Colonial Office, and called upon the Governor, Colonel Bird, and Mr. Melville. 25th. To-day mj travelling companions from Gnaden- thal prepared for their return, and after waiting long for their wagon, owing to the usual tardiness of Hottentot drivers, they set out at three in the afternoon. A slave, emancipated by the will of his master, on condition of his living at Gnadenthal, and receiving Christian instruction, went with them. Mr. Melville and I walked with them as far as the turnpike. There 1 took a last leave of my 37 29U JOURNAL OP A Gnadenthai friends, who still vainly hoped, that I should visit them once more, no opportunity offering for my speedy departure for England. But travelling at this time of the year is connected with so much delay, incon- venience, and uncertainty, that, far from indulging the idea af returning to Gnadenthai, I am almost of opinion, that I have been too much attached to that place, and staid in it too long. Our best wishes and prayers attend each other in our several employments and travels. I parted with some regret from Marcus, who had so long been my faithful coachman, and always approved himself worthy of his Christian name and profession. Brother Schmitt and his wife arrived to-day from Groenekloof 26th. I w^ent in Mr. Hancke's sociable, with Mr. Ed- ward Grant, to Newlands, to pay a morning visit to the Governor, but was unsuccessful. In the evening, his Excellency sent me an invitation to attend him on the fol- lowing day. 27th. This morning, I had the pleasure to receive let- ters from England, by which I was informed of the safe arrival of all my letters written at sea. The Spaniard and Dane had been the most tardy in forwarding them. In the afternoon, I set out for Newlands, with Mr. Edward Grant for my companion. I found there Mr. Von Rhyneveld, the landdrost of Stellenbosch, his lady, and Colonel Monkton. My visit proved very pleasant and useful, as both during the course of the evening, and in the morning of the 28th. I was favoured with much conversation with his Excellency, concerning affairs of consequence to the Mission, when I again had many proofs of his favourable disposition towards it. Having an engagement at Cape- town in the evening, I returned on horseback, though it rained hard, 29th. My Groenekloof friends introduced me to Mr. Sebastian Van Rhenen, where we dined. This gentle- man has been a friend to the Groenekloof Mission from its beginning. Having formerly travelled all over the colony, he gave us some interesting information on seve- ral topics, but particularly on the state of agriculture in the colony. His remarks, founded on long experience, VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 291 respecting the regulations now adopted to improve the rearing of produce, and the breed of cattle and sheep, the introduction of better implements of husbandry, the frequent change of Governors, and the new taxation, appeared just and well supported. 30th. We attended divine worship at the Lutheran church, where, as the Rev. Mr. Hesse informed me, some extraordinary music was to be performed, to so- lemnize the commemoration of the delivery of the Augs- burg Confession. I expected some ecclesiastical anthem in the good old Lutheran style, but was sadiy disap- pointed. By way of a prelude, the organist, a very clever performer both on the piano-forte and violin, as- sisted by about six or eight of the military band, treated us with the middle movement of Haydn's military sym- phony. The performance of this martial piece was surely a very improper preparation for religious wor- ship. On Mr. Hesse's entering the church, and stepping before the altar, he pronounced the words ; " Holy is God ! Holy is God ! the Lord of Sabaoth !" Between each sentence, a choir, consisting of four or five men, sung the same words to music, pretending to be the Sanctus in Haydn's first mass, but strangely altered and mangled. The singers had no copies written out for their use, but, turning their backs to the congregation, looked over the organist's shoulders into his book. The majestic simplicity of the Lutheran hymn-tunes was lost, in a display of the most flourishing decollations. Still I hoped, that, during some part of the service, which, as far as the preacher and congregation were concerned, was conducted with great solemnity, some anthem would be performed. I was mistaken; for, as a prelude to one of the four hymns appointed for the occasion, we were treated with another instrumental piece of Haydn, beau- tiful in its composition, and well executed by the band, but rather suited to accompany a dance than to excite devotional feelings. Of Mr. Hesse's most impressive discourse I understood more than on a former occasion, having seated myself near the pulpit. He closed it with a serious, and indeed mournful, consideration of the great degeneracy now prevailing throughout the Pro- 292 JOURNAL OF A testant communion, and with an earnest, but affectionate address to his congregation, and especially to the youth, exhorting them to consider their ways, and return unto the Lord, who had granted thera such great privileges, and the free use of His Holy Word and Sacraments. But, as if to efface all due impression made upon the audience by the solemnity of Mr. Hesse's discourse, the organist struck up the last movement of the military symphony, which half the congregation staid to hear. I must confess, that I left the church with pain and disgust. Though blame may attach to the persons en- gaged in this degradation of the service, and of that no- ble art, which is so suitably and acceptably employed to promote devotion, w^heh under the influence of a proper spirit, yet the cause of grief and regret in the heart of every sincere Christian, on account of such incongruities, lies deeper. That such things exist, is one convincing proof, among many, of the truth of the reverend preach- er's description of the present degeneracy. In those days, when the Protestant Confession Avas presented at Augsburg, would such performances have been borne in a place of worship? Luther knew the value of music, and the strong influ- ence it has upon the mind and affections, and therefore wisely retained the use of it in the Church. He increased the number of hymns, and by these means caused the knowledge of evangelical truth to spread fast among the people. Nor did he object to those antiphonal and choral performances, which accompanied both the Jewish and the primitive Christian worship, and furnish an agree- able variety and relief. But it was never the design of this great reformer, that the church should be the theatre, upon which music-masters and singers might exhibit the swiftness of their fingers, or the powers of their voice. There are other opportunities and places, where this may be done with propriety, and give delight to the most religious scientific admirer of the art. But in the house of prayer, these exhibitions are out of place, and the skill and taste of the performer should rather be discovered, by his knowing how to give majesty and effect to simpli- city, without drawing the attention of the congregation V[SIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 293 from the worship of God, to the admiration of himself. Instrumental music speaks a language, and expresses affections, as well as vocal. This is understood but im- perfectly; yet there are few who will not grant, that a march or a jig, performed by instruments, though it may afford pleasure in the field, or in a concert-room, speaks a language as little calculated to promote devotion as an entertaining story, or a sally of wit. We dined with Mr. Poleman, whose friendship I learned to value more and more, the better I became acquainted with him. Our evening was very agreeably spent with the Rev. Mr. Hesse. July 1st. Having taken leave of our worthy friend, Mrs. Disandt, at whose house we had been most hospi- tably entertained, we assembled at Mr. Melville's, and about ten o'clock left Capetown for Groenekloof In the evening, we reached Mr. Kaus's farm, called Lange Ruck, where we found good quarters for the night. 2d. We arrived safe at Groenekloof I was pleased to observe the growth of Indian ligs, planted as a fence to the burial-ground. Some new attempts to raise plan- tations of young trees had been made, but did not seem to succeed. 3d. A trap having been set in a ravine, to catch mause- hand, a muskiliat-cat was found in it, which Brother Stein brought home. It was extremely fierce, and had nearly escaped, when brought out of the trap. The skin was beautifully variegated with stripes and spots. The ground-colour a blueish gray, the spots black, with some admixture of brown. It is a species of viverra, with a long snout, and very sharp fangs. That, now caught, measured a foot and a half from its snowt to the root of the tail; the latter was of the same length as the body, with black and gray rings from the root to the tip. The smell of musk was very powerful in its skin, even after hanging five or six weeks in the open air. 4th. The trap being again set, a mausehund was caught, and preserved alive. It was a pretty creature, fierce and restless, uttering a sharp, barking noise, but being yet young, easily tamed, and, after some time, brought to take its meat out of any man's hand. After 294 JOURiNAL OF A having for some weeks patiently borne its confinement in a small kennel, it had the good fortune one night to gnaw off the thong, by which it was fastened, and thus to regain its liberty. 6th. The Lord's Supper was administered. Though this congregation is smaller, and consequently the com- municants fewer in number than at Gnadenthal, yet, having first at Groenekloof seen a congregation of Chris- tian Hottentots, and received the first strong impres- sions in my mind of the inestimable value of that work of God, by which the conversion of these poor people is effected, I perceived, that no subsequent circumstances had effaced them. 1 enjoyed an aftertaste of that pecu- liar delight which I then experienced, in seeing this con- gregation, met on so solemn an occasion. The external appearance of the communicants is here remarkably neat and clean. Both men and women were dressed in white cottons, and their deportment was very devout and respectful. He, who has promised, that, where two or three are gathered together in His name, He will be in the midst of them, blessed us with an encouraging per- ception of His divine presence. CHAPTER XIX. Return to England deferred. Consultations about the new Church. Visit to the Groote Post. Mr. Croucher, Visit Cruywagens Kraal and Lauweskloof. Particular ac- count of Brother Schmitfs encounter with a tyger. Of the first sermon in the Poplar wood. Earth-hogs under- mining Captain Klapmus'^s dwelling. Cape lark. Jour- ney to the Cape. Puffadders. Cape Butchers. Engage a passage in the Brilliant. Account of a Whale. Mr. Zorn. Mr. Buck. Antelopes. Mr. Hesse. Ride to Green Point. Granite and Schistus. Return to Groene- kloof. Rocky eminences. Hartebeest Kopf Cornland. Hottentot manner of sowing corn. Father Schwinn^s de- cease. Violent storm. On the 7th, I received a letter from Mr. Hancke, in- forming me, that in consequence of my having desired a VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICAp 21)5 passage to England to be secured for me, on board the first homeward-bound ship, he had provisionally done it in the Francis and Eliza, which w^ould sail in a few days ; yet subject to my own decision. The notice being so short, I was brought into some dilemma, but resolved to go to Capetown, and make further inquiry. In the night I was seized with headach, and felt too unwell to think of setting off in the morning. 8th. My indisposition confined me to the room, both this and the following day. The weather likewise be- came unfavourable, and the rainy season seemed to set in with violence. lOth. Instead, therefore, of going, I sent a messenger to the Cape, and declined the offer of a passage oa board the above-mentioned vessel. Nor had I finished all 1 had yet to do at Groenekloof. I had afterwards reason to believe, that it was providential that I was detained. llth. In the afternoon, Mr. Melville arrived here, being engaged to make a general survey of the Groene- kloof district, and as w^e were now daily considering of thebestmanner of procuring men and means to build the new church, we were glad to have so able a counsellor to assist in our deliberations. 12th. I drew up a writing, to be placed in the founda- tion-stone, which, in the sequel, was approved and signed by all the missionaries. After Mr. Melville had left us. Brother Schmitt rode with me to the Groote Post, to engage Mr. Croucher, the overseer, to come to Groene- kloof on a survey of the wood, that we might know what trees might be useful for spars and scaffolding. The Groote Post, which is a Government farm, and hunting-seat of the Governor, lies nearly north of Groene- kloof. On ascending the heights, it appears, at about an hour's distance, pleasantly situated, under a range of low heathy hills. The road passes through a wilder- ness, covered with rhinocerous and other bushes, har- bouring various kinds of game. We started some reh- bock antelopes, and several black cocks or Korhans, which betray themselves by a loud chattering noise, in endeavouring to escape. On the hills lie many huge 29 G JOURNAL OF A fragments of stones, loosely thrown together, affording^ shelter to baboons, wolves, and jackals. But these ani- mals are seldom seen, without going into their haunts. They prove their presence in the country, by their fre- quent depredations and other misdeeds. At night, the two latter sally forth on predatory expeditions; the baboon retires into his strono:-hold at sunset. o The Conterberg is the highest mountain in this part of the country ; then follows the Lauweskloof hill. The lower ranges take a direction from south-west to north-east. Much ground has been cultivated at the Groote Post, and its fields and gardens look like a green carpet, spread on the brown waste. The house is not large, and, though said to be built under English direction, is wholly Dutch in its arrangements. A clumsy flight of steps leads to the main entrance. The kitchen and ser- vants' hall are close to the sitting-room, which has a huge fire-place, quite out of proportion w^ith the size of the room. One of the wings is divided into cells for visiters, each containing a neat camp-bed, table and chair. The building is not worthy to be the country residence of the Governor of this colony, and his Excellency resides chiefly at Newlands. We were welcomed with much civility by the over- seer, Mr. Croucher. He showed us a flock of about two hundred lambs, between the Spanish and Cape breed. The stone, used for building, and brought ofl'the ad- joining hills and waste, is a variety of grit or granite, its component parts being remarkably small ! Having agreed to meet Mr. Croucher on the day following, we returned, and in passing, saw the Cornland belonging to our Hottentots, situated on an eminence, called the Hartebeest Kopf, w^here many of them were diligently employed, under the inspection of Brother Fritsch. 12th. We walked through the wood with Mn Croucher. He very obligingly yielded to all our wishes, and desired, that the trees we thought useful for our buildings might be marked. He also pointed out a mode of constructing Hottentot houses in a more expeditious, convenient, and durable manner, than is done atpresentiL VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 297 and offered to come with a slave, and help to build the next house to be added to the village ; and otherwise to render any service to the mission. I mention this with the more satisfaction, as an opinion had been entertained at Groenekloof, that he was not friendly to the Mission, which some former transactions, in which, however, he was not personally to blame, seemed to justify. How often do we perceive, that opinions formed from appear- ances are fallacious ! Nothing, surely, would more pro- mote the peace of society and goodwill among men, than frequent and unreserved explanations. Mr. Croucher came from the neighbourhood of Guildford in Surry, and is well skilled in the art of rearing and preserving trees. After dinner. Brother Schmitt rode with me to Cruy- wagens Kraal and Lauweskloof, both belonging to Groenekloof By the way, we visited a plantation on the waste, begun some time ago by Brother Bonatz, which the heat and dryness of the sand will not permit to thrive. Cruywagens Kraal is an old Hottentot station, in a pleasant, fruitful valley, with a supply of water from a fountain, but now only used for pasture. A con- siderable number of oxen were feeding upon it. As we ascended the hill, an extensive view of the Zwartland presented itself, appearing like a heathy and desolate plain, with a few scattered farms. The mountains of Tulbach and Rodesand lay in the back ground, the highest of which was covered with snow. After cross- ing the head of the valley, we turned towards that part of the Lauweskloof hill, where Brother Schmitt, in the year 1811, had an encounter with a tyger. I had been very desirous to visit that spot in his company, where he might describe to me all the particulars of that terrible conflict. Though a pretty full account of it is inserted in the Periodical Accounts of the Missions of the Breth- ren, vol. v. p. 118, in an extract of a letter from his wife to me, yet 1 believe I shall not be thought to trespass on the patience of my readers, if I repeat it here, as related to me by himself, standing on the scene of action. Wolves having done much mischief at Groenekloof, where they even entered the yard and took away a sheep, and in the fields worried several boasts belonging .30 298 JOURNAL OF A to the Hottentots, an attempt was made, on the 6th of August, to find out their haunts, and, if possible, to de- stroy them. For that purpose, the missionaries Bonatz and Schmitt, with about thirty Hottentots, set out early in the morning, towards the Lauweskloof hill, where they are mostly met with. One of these animals was seen and lamed by a shot, but escaped and entered the bushes. The Hottentots followed, but the missionaries, not expecting to succeed, were returning, when the party called to them, that the wounded wolf was in the thicket. Brother Schmitt, rode back, and alight- ing, entered with a Hottentot of the name of Philip Moses. The dog started some animal, which those with- in the bushes could not see; but the Hottentots remain- ing on the outside, perceiving it to be a tyger, called aloud to the missionary to return. He therefore, with Philip, began to retreat backwards, pointing his gun, and ready to fire, in case the animal made his appearance. Suddenly a tyger sprang forward, but from a quarter not expected, and by a flying leap over the bushes, fastened upon the Hottentot, seizing his nose and face with claws and teeth. I measured the distance of the place, from whence the tyger made his spring, to that on which the Hottentot stood, and found it full twenty (eet^ over bushes from six to eight feet high. Brother Schmitt observed, that if it had not been for the horror of the scene, it would have been a most amusing sight, to behold the en- raged creature fly, like a bird, over that length of ground and bushes, with open jaw and lashing tail, screaming with the greatest violence. Poor Philip was thrown down, and in the conflict lay now upon, and then under, the tyger. The missionary might easily have effected his escape, but his own safety never entered his thoughts. Duty and pity made him instantly run forward to the as- sistance of the sufferer. He pointed his gun, but the mo- tions of both the Hottentot and the tyger, in rolling about and struggling, were so swift, that he durst not venture to pull the trigger, lest he should injure Philip. The tyger, perceiving him take aim, instantly quitted his hold, worked himself from under the Hottentot, and flew like lightning upon Brother Schmitt As the gun was VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 299 of no use in such close quarters, he let it fall, and pre- sented his left arm, to shield his face. The tjger instant- ly seized it with his jaw, Brother Schmitt with the same arm catching one of his paws, to prevent his outstretched claws from reaching his body. With the other paw, however, the tjger continued striking towards his breast, and tearing his clothes. Both fell in the scuffle and pro- videntially, in such a position, that the missionary's knee, without design, came to rest on the pit of the tyger's sto- mach. At the same time, he grasped the animal's throat with his right hand, keeping him down with all his might. The seizure of his throat, made the tyger instantly let go his hold, but not before Brother Schmitt had received another bite, nearer the elbow. His face lay right over that of the tyger's, whose open mouth, from the pressure of his wind-pipe, sent forth the most hideous, hoarse, aneJ convulsive groans, while his starting eyes, like live coals, seemed to flash with fire. In this situation. Brother Schmitt called aloud to the Hottentots^ to come to his rescue, for his strength was fast failing, rage and agony supplying to the animal ex- traordinary force, in his attempts to disengage himself. The Hottentots at length ventured to enter the thicket, and one of them, snatching the loaded gun, which lay on the ground, presented it and shot the tyger, under the missionary's hand, right through the heart. His death was instantaneous, his eyes shut, his jaw fell, and he lay motionless. Had any life been left, his dying struggles might yet have proved fatal to some of his assailants. Then first Brother Schmitt began to feel the extent of the injury done to his arm, but his chief concern was to know, how poor Philip had fared. He found, that he had exerted himself to rise and help his teacher; but his face being terribly lacerated, and his eyes filled with blood, he could not render any assistance. Horses being provided, they were both brought home. Sister Schmitt instantly despatched a messenger to Capetown, to request the attendance of Dr. Cairns, of the Naval Hospital. The doctor was so much engaged, that he could not come, till after three days had eJapsecJ. Meanwhile, the Brethren bad done all in their power to 300 JOURNAL OP A afford relief, but ^vithout success. The fever and inflfim mation increased daily. The patient grew dehrious, and told me, that in his delirium, nothing appeared so dread- ful to him, as the picture of the tygcr^s open jaws and fiery eyes, presented to his disordered imagination. He thought himself still in that position. On the arrival of Dr. Cairns, every possible means were used to bring down the inflammation. There were seven deep wounds in the arm. In two or three places, the tyger's fangs had penetrated into the bone. For several weeks, the life of this valuable man w as in the greatest danger, but by God*s blessing on the unwearied exertions of Dr. Cairns, and the excellent nursing of his faithful wife, he recovered. Standing in the thicket, while I w^as listening to my friend's account of his adventure, the sun was fast sink- ing towards the horizon : lengthened shades and evening gloom overspread the place; imagination began its work : we thought we heard something stirring among the bushes, and retreating faster than we had entered, mounted our horses, and made the best of our way down a rough road, towards the few Hottentot houses in the vale. About a month after the event here related had taken place, a Groenekloof Hottentot, passing through the same thicket, saw a large male tyger crouching beneath a bush, and hoped to be able to shoot it, but his g;un missed tire. The tyger, however, lay still, keeping his eyes lixed upon the man, who was glad to retreat back- wards and make his escape. Having^ reached the little poplar wood in the vale, Brother fechmitt showed me the place where Brother Kohrhammer, on visiting this spot in 1807, by desire of the Earl of Caledon, delivered the first sermon to about an hundred Heathen Hottentots, then inhabiting the Lauweskloot. He stood under a tree, and his congrega- tion near a pool of w ater in the wood. Here we were accosted by an old woman, the most us:ly and detormed Hottentot female I had ever beheld. She told us, that a slave, by a charm, had destroyed her beauty, and caused her face to exhibit such bulbous ex- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 301 crescences. Brother Schmitt, who knew her, replied^ that she ought not to endeavour to set her conscience to rest with that idle and wicked tale, but rather repent of her profligate life, by which she had brought misery and ugliness upon herself. She called God to witness, that the stories told and believed, respecting her wicked life, were totally false, and used such language, that one might have supposed her to have been under Christian instruction, whereas she is a sworn enemy of the gospel, and never would even enter the chapel at Groenekloof We next called upon old Captain Klapmus, who inha- bits a miserable bondhoek, though he aflects to behave with all the pride of a man of consequence. To see this poor blind man, groping his way out of his dark abode to bid us welcome, was a truly pitiable sight. Still more tlind as to those things which are of most importance to the soul, he now paid no attention to Brother Schmitt's friendly invitation to come to Groenekloof. The mis- sionary reminded him of his daughter's baptism, and the hopes then entertained by us all, that he would follow her example, and, in his old age, turn to the Lord. He excused himself with a lameness in his back, but all good impression, made upon him at that time, seemed to have vanished. Yet he expressed himself pleased and thank- ful for our visit Earth-hogs had made approaches towards his hut, which they seemed disposed to undermine. Several of their holes were not far off, and being aware of the dan- ger, he made some inquiry about them. We advised him, either to get his |>eople to destroy them, or to remove his hut, as otherwise, before he was aware, he and the old woman that attended him, might be suddenly let down alive into their sepulchral caverns. These singular creatures are about as large as a com- mon pig. They have a long snout, long sharp claws, very little hair, and a rough skin. Their food is the ants, and probably other insects. The ants carry their nests under ground, sometimes to a depth of from live to eiglit and more feet. The earth-hogs therefore follow them, and, putting in their long tongue, draw them out and devour them. The holes made bv these creatures. 3,02 JOURNAL OF A are often hid among the bushes, and a huntsman cross- ing the waste, may meet with an unexpected overthrow, either by faUing into them, or by the earth being under- mined near the entrance, giving way under the horse's feet During this ride, I was likewise made attentive to a bird, improperly called a lark, • It is about the size of a lark, flies up with a rustling noise, rises to a moderate height, and lying on its wings, descends, uttering a mournful whoop or whistle. Its melancholy note pro- duces the reverse of the cheering effect of the spirited song of our European larks. The sugar-bush grows plentifully in the wilderness, and in increasing quantity. It has a magnificent flower, and the wood and roots are good fuel. 1 6th. Letters from Capetown, mentioning a brig, the Brilliant, Captain Young, as likely soon to sail for Eng- land, I set out for the Cape, with a sensible Hottentot for my groom, about eight o'clock. I contrived to converse with him during the journey in Dutch, and found con- siderable entertainment in the remarks he made on vari- ous subjects. Many tortoises crawl about the waste. They are not large, generally from six to eight inches long. A small species called Patlooper, is from four to five inches. In warm weather, incHning to rain, they are often seen crawling from one bush to another across the road. Ob- serving to my Hottentot, that they were the best pro- tected of all the innoxious animals of this howlino- wil- derness, he was of a different opinion. The jackals, he replied, watch for the young tortoises, crack their tender shell as easily as a nut, and devour them: again, the crows attack the larger ones, as they are passing over a place, unprotected by bushes, turn them over, and by in- serting their long bills into the open parts of the shell, seize their feet and heads, and most dexterously contrive, by degrees, to pick out the whole animal. Of that most venomous reptile,* the puffadder, he gave me several strange accounts, hardly to be credited. It is said, that the production of the young brood is the death of the dam. as they begin their murderous career, by gnawing VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 303' their way out. of her body. 1 should not mentton thb circumstance, if 1 had not heard it asserted by men of credit. We baited at a farm, belonging to a Mr. Monnick, who was absent. I walked about the premises, and found some curious varieties of ferruginous sand-stone, in scattered fragments. Near theRiet valley, we met a Groenekloof Hottentot, Immanuel, returning with hi* wagon from Capetown. He very civilly alighted, and came up to me, but forgot to deliver a parcel of letters he had for me. I gladly pardoned his forgetfuloess, ^"which was altogether the consequence of extreme mo- desty. He is one of the most obliging, sensible, well- behaved men, I have ever met with in any country. Often have I admired the manner in which he performed every part of his office, as a chapel-servant; and in his family and intercourse with mankind, he is a pattern of good conduct. As we were about to ford the Soute Revier, which was rather swollen, we were overtaken by a butcher in his cart or curricle,^ driving six horses in hand. As he had seen me at Groenekloof^ he hailed and oifered me a seat, to bring me dry through the river, of which I ac- cepted. The Cape butchers are considered to be some of the richest men in the country. They fetch their cat- tle from the interior, pay little for them, run the risk of getting them safe to town, and sell the meat at a high price. With my worthy Cape friends I found a cordial wel- come. 17th. A passage to England was offered me on board the Revolutionaire frigate, but though I was assured, that the man of war w^ould bring me much sooner home, I felt some misgiving ab©ut accepting the offer. The evening was most agreeably spent with the Rev. Mr. Hesse. 18th. This morning I met Captain Young of the Bril- liant, by appointment, on the pier. We had long to wait for the boat, and were meanwhile joined by Mr. and Mrs. Shaw, belonging to Mr. Wesley's connexion, and sent out on a Mission to the Namaquas. The Captain 304 JOURNAL OF A invited them to go on board. The Brilliant is a very fine brig, and I soon made up my mind to engage a pas- sage on board her, both for myself and Brother Bo- natz's son, having promised the parents to take him with me. Three boats were towing a whale into the bay, and on our return to shore, we rowed up to it, and took a view of this enormous fish. It was a female, and pro- nounced to be but young. She lay on her back, and measured about twenty-five feet in length, and ten in breadth across the middle. Having pushed the boat between a fin and the body, we took off a number of white, round, living animals, of the barnacle kind, about an inch in diameter, cleaving to her skin ; as likewise a creature armed with fangs and tweezers, said to be a whale-louse. The whales frequent these bays chiefly to spawn, and almost all those caught here are females. The delay occasioned by this circumstance, prevented my accompanying the Rev. Mr. Hesse and his family to the residence of Mr. Zorn, late landdrost of the Cape district. Mr. Polemau, however, took me out in his gig. I met there Mr. Bresler, formerly landdrost of Graaf Reynet, and Mr. Matthiesen, a member of the Court of Justice. I was glad of an opportunity of expressing the thanks of our Society to Mr. Zorn, for the kindness he always showed to our missionaries, when they first oc- ^cupied Groenekloof. The afternoon was pleasantly spent, and we all returned to town on foot. The night was warm, and the heavens brilliantly bespangled with stars. But for the absence of the leaves of the oaks, poplars, and other foreign trees, the weather about this time was equal to the finest summer-weather in Europe. Mr. Hesse walking with me, we entered into much in- teresting conversation concerning the difference, more of expressions and forms, than of opinions and doctrines, which distinguish the Lutheran and the Brethren's Churches. He thought, however, that there existed some material difference, as to our views of certain re- ligious tenets, and that, at least, the Brethren had ex- pressed their sentiments very unintelligibly. This is granted to have been the case in former times, for which VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 305 many apologies have passed unnoticed. But as to those peculiar doctrines, which constitute the very essence of Christianity, the divinity and atonement of Christ, salva- tion by grace alone, justification by faith, and the neces- sity of a walk conformable to the word of God, we and all true believers of every denomination, have always agreed, however we may otherwise difler in non-essen- tials. The more the former are valued, and practically known, the farther the latter will recede into the back- ground. 1 9th. This forenoon, I accompanied the Rev. Mr. Hesse to the free-school, which is conducted on Dr. Bell's plan. We saw the scholars write and cipher. Mr. Matthiesen had invited the whole of Mr. Zorn's yesterday's party, with others, to dinner at his house in de Heere-Kracht, near the parade. With him and Mr. Zorn I had much conversation, concerning the present state and future prospects of this colony. They differed widely in their opinions, respecting the policy of present measures, but both seemed to be equally desirous of pro- moting their country's welfare. 20th. This forenoon I visited my pleasant ship's-com- panion, Mr. Buck. He had been on a hunting expedi- tion to Saldanha bay, and informed me that he and his party had shot a hundred and six antelopes. This led once more to a subject, frequently discussed on board the Albion, the useless waste of animal life. Very few of these antelopes could become food, either for the huntsmen or their dogs ; the rest were left miserably to perish in the wilderness, killed or maimed, merely to gratify the momentary vanity of being a good marksman. But is not this disposition in mankind owing to a diabo- lical influence ? The least that can be said of it, is this, that it belongs to those inordinate desires, which, for a time, seem to suppress all proper feeling, even in a heart otherwise benevolent and kind. To-day I was introduced by Mr. Alexander to Mr. Dash wood, the proprietor of a farm, called Gaensekraal, near Groenekloof 21st. Having promised the Rev. Mr. Hesse that I would play the organ during the morning-service, at the 30 # 306 JOURNAL OF A Lutheran church, I went early, but found the great or- gan quite out of tune, and was obliged to be contented with the choir-organ and swell. A hundred dollars per annum is paid to a person to keep it in order. I spent the whole day with my reverend friend-and his family, and, in the evening, took a short ride with them to Sea Point and Green Point, on the coast, west of the Lion's head. Since the English have been here, the great consump- tion of grain had encouraged many inhabitants to culti- vate the land between the mountains and the sea, though rather unfruitful, the sward of earth upon the rocks being only between one and two feet in thickness. Trees, therefore, will not thrive, but the situation is well studded with small neat houses and villas, and with gardens and hedges of low bushes. Mr. Alexander's premises on Green Point exhibit some very beautiful geraniums, from three to four feet in height. Here we alighted, and walked to the rocks. Limpets, of from four to five inches in diameter, cleave to them, which, when cleaned and polished, have brilliant colours. At Sea Point, the rocks are chiefly granite, in huge masses, or in strata. Blue schistus appears to lie under them, and inserts itself into the fissures and crevices of the granite. Some men of science here insist upon it, that this schistus is the ground-work of all these mountains, and that the Lion's head and other granite mountains are strata lying upon it. 1 will not attempt to decide the question, from the imperfect observation I had an opportunity of making. The situation we had visited, not having a single spring of fresh water in it, is denomi- nated, De Kleene Zwartland. The inhabitants either collect rain-water, or send for water to the town. The coast is a favourite promenade of the town's-people, and we met several parties on foot, or in carriages. 22d. Having paid short morning-visits to some friends, I took leave of my kind hostess^ Mrs. Disandt, about ten o'clock, and left Capetown, in company of Mr. Melville, on horseback, intending to reach Groenekloof to-night. We halted at a farmer's house, to the right of the main ro.^d^ but, not finding him at home, would not be trouble- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 307 some to his family. A dead ox, just skinned, lay near the house-door, a sight not well calculated to create an appetite, nor to give a very elevated idea of the gentility of the inhabitants. We therefore, after a short rest, proceeded, trusting to the strength and patient abstemi- ousness of our horses, and reached Groenekloof early in the morning. 23d. Brother Fritsch's birthday was celebrated by the Hottentots and the family, nearly in the same manner as mentioned page 99. In the afternoon, he accompanied me to some eminences, about two or three miles north of the settlement. Upon the first, a curious assemblage of large blocks of granite form a mass of a singular kind; some, of a pyramidal form, stand upright, others lie horizontally. The interstices between them are filled with many kinds of bushes, and a variety of plants, inte- resting to a botanist. The second is called the Bavians- terg, belonging to the Groenekloof estate. Its summit is likewise covered with rocks and masses of granite, among high bushes. I was made particularly.attentive to the great quantity of olive-bushes growing upon it, some of which have stems six or eight inches in diameter, and rise to twelve or more feet in height. A variety of the speckboom attracted my notice. The stem and boughs are easily broken, having hardly the consistency of a carrot or parsnip; the leaf is light-green, waxy, oval, and about two inches by one in surface.. The whole upper part of the hill or hills, of which the Baviansberg consists, is covered with a wilderness of every kind of bush and shrub, common to this country, forming an almost impenetrable thicket. In endeavour- ing to penetrate into it, to have a nearer view of some of the rocks, we soon found resistance made to our pro- gress by thorny plants of various kinds, particularly by one, called Warn en beetgen^ or " Stop a little,'' as it catches the stockings, or some other part of dress, and patience is required to extricate one's self from its barbed hold. Some thorns lie low enough to tear away shoe- strings or knee-bands, and others penetrate the skin. We were glad, after much trouble, to get back into the r>pad. 308 JOURNAL OF A On the Hartebeest Kopf hill, we found several of our people busily at work^ sowing corn. Their manner of doing it is singular. They first cast the corn upon the waste, then plough over it ; but as they seldom plough as much land as they overcast, the seed, thus exposed during the night, becomes the prey of birds or field-mice, which they patiently suffer. When I represented to them the injury they sustained, they insisted upon it, that it must be so done in this country, and endeavoured to explain the reason, which 1 must confess myself too dull to have comprehended. The harrow they use is a triangular frame, formed of three pieces of wood, furnished with teeth, four or six inches asunder, and doing very little execution. But pre- judice defends even this bungling contrivance. I observed in that part of the waste, over which I walk- ed to-day, a great quantity of Vlachdorn, a decoction of which is so useful in the stranguary, as mentioned above, (page 262.) But its use is hardly known in these parts, where many an ox dies of that horrid disease. My conversation with Brother Fritsch, led me better to understand many subjects connected with the peculiar circun^stances and situation of this missionary establish- ment ; and I may here observe, that the confidence, with which all the Brethren treated me, both here and at Gnadenthal, contributed more to that knowledge which I obtained of the external and internal state of the Mis- sion, than any official statements, I feel myself truly thankful for their unreserved communications. The Groenekloof farm comprehends a large lot of ground. The Hottentots enjoy the benefit of it, and keep, altogether, about four hundred head of cattle ; but as to paying any, the most reasonable, consideration for their fields, gardens, and other advantages, it never en- ters into their thoughts. Hitherto, the Mission must bear ^11 expenses, but by degrees, they should be taught to understand the justice and necessity of paying a small rent, to cover expenses, incurred merely for their sakes. 26th. Having received from Capetown the leadenrbox, meant to contain the writing to be placed in the founda- VipR-stpne, Brother Schnaitt weijt with me to the hill near VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 309 the ravine, where, having fixed upon a large block of gra- nite, he marked the square hole to be cut into it, to con- tain the box. The Hottentot mason set about it very dexterously. At home, I was busily employed both with correspon- dence, and other affairs relating to the Mission. Towards evening it began to rain hard, and the wind rose conside- rably. During the night the gale increased. 27 th. The new wall of the dwelling-house, now rebuild- ing, was so much injured, that great part of the new work must be taken down. Mr. Melville returned to us. In the evening, Carl Stompje, came express from Gna- denthal, by the short road over the Fransche Hoek, in two days and a half, and brought the news of the decease of Father Schwinn, on the 25th, early. Though, when I left Gnadenthal, he seemed to be fast declining, under a complication of disorders, yet we did not so soon expect his final release, and felt deeply affected on reading the letters received from our brethren, containing a circum- stantial account of his last illness and departure, and of the great sensation produced among the Hottentot con- gregation by this event. When, in 1792, leave was granted by the Dutch Go- vernment, to renew the Mission, he, with his two col- leagues, Marsveld and Kuehnel, arrived at the Cape in November of the same year. On the 24th of December, they fixed upon the spot, where the first founder of the Mission, the late George Schmidt, had resided in 1737. The deceased visited Germany in 1799, but returned to his station in 1800. He was a man of a remarkably cheerful and active mind, and possessed great courage and firmness. His public ministry was distinguished by many bold and con- vincing testimonies of his taith, which he delivered with peculiar energy, speaking from the abundance of his heart, with demonstration of the Spirit, and conviction to the hearts of his hearers. The Christian Hottentots will always revere his rxnemory. He baptized three hundred and thirty-two persons, old and young, many of whom have departed before him in the faith of Christ. Qn the afternoon of the day of his departure, the 310 JOURNAL OF A mournful event was announced to the congregation by Brother Clemens, and caused many tears to flow. The Hottentots were afterwards admitted, in order, into the chamber, to see the corpse of their beloved teacher. They reminded each other of many exhortations given them by him, on so many occasions, and mourned as over the loss of a father. On the day preceding the funeral, a great number as- sembled around the corpse, and under the grove before the door, and sung hymns expressive of the happiness of those, who depart this life, trusting in the merits of their Redeemer, and of the blessedness of that commu- nion of saints, which unites all true believers with the spirits of just men made perfect. The funeral was attended by a crowded congregation, and by many neighbours, who highly respeeted the character of the deceased. Many more would have joined the company, had the river Sonderend been ford- able at the time. Brother P. Leitner delivered the fune- ral discourse on Rev. v. 13, 14, and the strictest order and attention was maintained throughout the whole of the service. 28th. The congregation at Groenekloof was likewise much affected, on being informed this morning, at church, of the loss the Mission had sustained by the departure of Father Schwinn. They expressed their sorrow v/ith many tears. In the afternoon, two persons were baptized. The bumble, but fervent manner, in which the solemn ques- tions put to the catechumens are answered by them, again affected me so much, that some exertion of mind \Yas required to permit me to attend to the ceremonial of the transaction. After they had returned thanks, as is their usual cus- tom, the husband of the baptized woman, being yet un- baptized, but a man of orderly conduct, came to the missionaries, to express his gratitude for the favour granted to his wife, whom he earnestly wished to fol- low in obtaining the same privilege. This was rather unusual ; for, in general, they cannot well bear a partner to precede, in any advance in the church. During the ■'m-. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 311 night, the gale increased to a violent storm. It blew down the vine-bower before the dwelling-house, but did no more damage to the new building. 29th. Carl Stompje set out on his return, notwith- standing the unfavourable appearance of the weather, loaded with letters for Gnadenthal. During the day, it rained and hailed much, and towards evening, we were alarmed for the safety of our roofs. A violent squall, with lightning, thunder, and hail, some of the stones being as large as a walnut, passed over us. The hail seemed to be whirled about by the violence of the wind, and tore a part of the reed-thatch from the roof. The cessation of the storm was almost instantaneous. About midnight all was still. Till then, the lightning was re- markably vivid. 31st. The Governor called here in his way to the Groote Post. His Excellency informed us, that, during the late violent gale, the Revolutionaire frigate, the Zebra, and some more ships, in Simon's bay, had been driven on shore, as likewise two ships in Table bay. This is an uncommon effect of a storm at the Cape, for, as the land is very high, between Simon's and Table bay, the one is generally considered safe, when the wind sets into the other ; but, on this occasion, the storm was more like a hurricane, the wind shifting seven ral times to different points. 312 JOURNAL OF A CHAPTER XX. Hard frost. Account of Sister SchmMs school. Visit to the Governor at the Groote Post. Destruction of trees by Hottentots. Their diligence at work among the rocks. Jlnts'^ nests^ used as ovens- Quarry. Aloe garden de- stroyed. Cuytges^ salamanders^ and serpents found. Foun- dation of the new church. Zaccheus Deba^ a Caffre from Gnadenthal. Journey to Capetown. Reflections on the en- joyment of earthly comforts. Mr. Sieurvogel. Capetown dogs. Rev. Dr. Jones^ Senior chaplain. Apologies not attended to. Mr. Slabberfs wagon and ten horses. Yel- low finches. Chameleons. Elephant-stones. AIoy-Mack^s Revier. Farewell discourse. Laying the foujidatton-^ stone of the new church. Mr. Schroeder. Dacha^ a poisonous plant. August 1st. It had frozen very hard last night, and the ice was in some places nearly an inch thick. The air, however, was perfectly clear, and the sun shone warm. As I was making a sketch of the rocks behind the stables, Sister Schmitt's school-girls came towards me, one carry- ing a plate, with a piece of ice in it, fast melting in the sun. They asked me, whether the water, flowing from the ice, might be drank with safety, as they thought that it was poisonous. I gave them some information on the subject, and when I described the quantity and thickness of the ice in the northern regions, and told them of the immense ice-mountains and fields, floating in the ocean, I perceived, by their astonished looks, that, had they not thought one of their teachers incapable of falsehood or exaggeration, they would have suspected me of sporting w^ith their credulity. These children are from ten to fourteen years old, and instructed, out of pure charity, by Sister Schmitt, in sa- tin-stitch, tambour, and plain work. It is surprising, with what neatness they have learned to execute it. When Sister Schmitt first arrived at Groenekloof, and saw the wretched state of most of the Hottentot children, it ex- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 313 ceedingly distressed her, and having perceived, that most ofthe Hottentot women are good seamstresses, and teach their girls early the use ofthe needle, it occurred to her mind, that they might soon learn to work satin- stitch, which she herself perfectly well understood. She therefore tried the experiment with one or two, and suc- ceeding, added more to the number. By these means^ she taught the children to earn their own bread, and even to afford relief to their poor parents.^ Her country- woman. Sister Leitner, has done the same atGnadenthaL Being invited to dine with the Governor at the Groote Post, I met there Captain Cloete, Mr. Bentinck, and Mr. Ward. We were spending the afternoon very pleasant- ly, when a despatch announced to his Excellency the death of his brother at Lisbon. Some time after he had left the room, he sent the letter for our perusal. The mournful news was heard by the company with sincere sympathy, and we spent the remainder of the day in si« lence and reading. 2d. While I was waiting for my horse, to return to Groenekloof, the Governor, coming into the room, de- sired me to spend the day with him. I had much con- versation with his Excellency, concerning various sub- jects, and thought my time not unprofitably spent. He kindly acceded to some proposals, laid before him, tend- ing to remove unpleasant disagreements between neigh- bours. During the forenoon, Mr. Croucher, by his orders, showed me a new plough, made of cast iron, worked with only two horses, or four, if more depth of furrows is re- quired, without holding the shafts. He wished me to recommend it to our missionaries. In the evening, I took a solitary walk to the hills, and went up to some rocks, or large fragments of granite. They form a good fore- ground to a view of the Groote Post, lying in the plain. The Table-Mountain and its companions adorn the horizon. 3d. I set out early, and was followed by the Gover- nor, who, after breakfast, passed through Groenekloof, on his return to Capetown. He was in better health and spirits. 1 had caught a violent cold, and felt unwelL, 40 314 JOURNAL OF 4 But a packet of letters from England made me forget all indisposition. 5th. In the afternoon, visiting some Hottentot families. I observed an unfinished house, the v^alls of stone, and well built, and inquired into the reason of its being left in that state, when I found, that it was owing to a want of wood for the doors, roof, and furniture. This led to an explanation respecting the possession of the wood, and prevented the poor people appealing to the landdrost against the overseer, who had very properly prohibited their cutting wood at their pleasure, by which, formerly, a great many trees have been destroyed. Till better instructed, the Hottentots have no thought beyond the present moment, and being too lazy to stoop aiwl apply their axe to the bottom of the stem, they chop it off as high as they can stand to it, besides maiming others by cutting off their branches, or tops, without any attention to the growth of the tree. The general scarcity of wood makes it therefore highly necessary to prevent such mis- chief, and as they may have what wood they want, to build their huts, if they only apply to the overseer, there is no hardship in their asking for it. They were satisfi^ ed, when Brother Schmitt explained the matter to them. In the evening, the family met to a consultation re- specting the commencement of the building of the new church, and the means of providing food anddwelhng for any additional hands. 6th. To-day we began to carry stones from the rocks behind the stables, to lay the foundation of the church, and I was much pleased to see the zeal and spirit, with which the Hottentots went to work. There w^as indeed a good deal of amusement connected with it, which, with them, is a great stimulus to exertion. Many very large stones were dislodged, and dragged to the building, on a strong sledge, by ten oxen. In separating two parts of an immense block, which, by some violence not account- ed for, had a crack right through the middle, a nest of ar ts of the largest size was laid open. They were from half, to near three quarters of an inch long. Almost every stone seemed to afford protection to larger or smafiler ants. They differed from those, which raise w VISIT TO SOtJtH AFRICA* 315 solid nests of clay in all parts of the wilderness, in shape like a baker's oven, and used for that purpose in the in- 'terior. The Caffres, when first permitted to settle at Gnadenthal, before they could build ovens, according to the custom of their country, availed themselves of these tumuli, and having expelled or destroyed the inhabitants by fire and smoke, scooped them out hollow, leaving a crust of a few inches in thickness, and used them for ba- king, putting in three loaves at a time. The clay of which the nests are formed, is so well prepared by these industrious insects, that it is used for the floors of rooms, both by Hottentots and farmers. 7th. The people continued their work at the stones as long as the weather remained fine, and I frequently ac*- companied Brother Schmitt, when he attended them. No European labourers could work with greater dili- gence and effect. We had engaged a Dambra Hotten*- tot, called Ephraim, to work in a quarry at the top of the eminence, where the granite was split into irregular strata, nearly in a perpendicular direction. The quarry yielded good stone for building walls. The large masses above ground, were of a harder texture than the stones under the surface. Thin layers of schistus cleaved to some part of the latter. Ephraim distinguished himself by his steadiness and persevering diligence. The Dam- bras differ much in their manners from the Hottentots of this country, they are of a more swarthy complexion, and have features better formed. When a large stone was dislodged, I generally met with something deserving attention. To-day I saw, for the first time, that singular animal, called by the Hot- tentots the mountain-salamander. It is shaped like a li- zard, but broader, seven or eight inches long, and scaly. The scales on the tail are pointed, and stand off from the body, but whether generally, or only in fright or anger, I cannot tell. A nest of young cuytges was uncovered. This is a small species of newt or asker ; its bite is said to be very venomous, and as it lodges in old thatch, the Hottentots are very cautious in taking down an old roof. Ur^der some of the stones we found caterpillars, black and hairy. 316 JOURNAL OF A By the operation of grubbing up, and removing these stones, which may have lain there since the deluge, many flovi^ers, much beautiful shrubbery, and a great quantity of aloes, were destroyed. 1 defended them as long as I could, but was obliged to submit to the necessity of using the stones. The ground was strewed with flowers and bulbs, shattered aloe-leaves and beautiful plants, but I was assured, for my comfort, that, after a short rest, the earth would bring forth abundantly, and the aloes and fahlblar again adorn the spot. By far the greater part of the masses of stone, being beyond the power of man to move, they still present a singular and beautiful group of rocks, and the removal of the smaller fragments, laying the larger masses more open, gave them more picturesque dignity. 9th. Brother Bonatz, after the meeting for instruction, having proposed to the men, that they should begin to dig the foundation of the church, they immediately fell to work, with great alacrity. The ground opened easily, but some remnants of old walls were discovered, the farm-house belonging to the Dutch Company having occupied this spot, previous to the building of the present dwelling-house. At the west corner, water appeared, not proceeding from a spring, but oozing out of a sandy stratum. Beneath the sand Was a layer of a kind of pipe-clay, and to this we were obliged to penetrate, to get a firm foundation. In the afternoon, I visited several families in the village. 10th. After breakfast, I went to the people at work among the rocks. Between two large flat stones, one laying on the other, leaving a small space between them, we discovered the nest of the serpent, called here, cobra di capella. A Hottentot lad, who had fortified himself against the poison of a serpent's bite, was called, and took out three young ones. One of them I put into a bottle of brandy. We had scarcely disposed of them, before a bergadder made his appearance. It was seized by the neck, and sent after the cobra di capella, into the bottle. Under the same stone, a scorpion, and several large spiders were found. In the evening, Ephraim killed and sent me a young Nachtschlange, or night-ser- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA* 317 pent, beautifully marked with yellow, vermilion, and dark-blue rings. 11th. Many Hottentots attended the public service. Brother Schmitt delivered an animated discourse on the gospel of the day; and in his prayer commended the building of the new church, and all who take share in it, to the blessing and protection of our Heavenly Father. 12th. Mr. Melville surprised us very agreeably, by his unexpected arrival. 1 delivered to him the Govern- or's order, to make a diagram of this place, by which I had the satisfaction to detain him. To-day, a Caffre, Zaccheus Deba, arrived here from Gnadenthal, with let- iers and journals. The letters from our missionaries described the impression made upon the Hottentots, by the departure of their beloved Father Schwinn, as very great. They still wept tears of remorse, when they ealled to mind his affectionate zeal and admonitions, and his tender concern for the salvation of their souls, and for their improvement in all things that adorn the Chris- tian character. We hope that the effect pf this contri- tion will be salutary and permanent. 13th. Being a memorial-day in the Church of the Uni- ted Brethren, it was celebrated with due solemnity. At nine we met in the chapel. I had never seen this place so well filled, nor a more attentive auditory. Every bench was crowded, and the children sat on the ground. Brother Schmitt delivered a suitable discourse, in which he introduced a most luminous, and, even to Hottentots, intelligible, account of the event which gave rise to this festival. (^See Crantz^s History of the Brethren. Part I. p. 115.) Mr. and Mrs. Slabbert were present, on their return from the Cape, and expressed great satisfaction and asto- nishment at the devout behaviour of the congregation. He informed us, that the sailing of the Brilliant was put off till the 7th of September; a delay which I then much regretted. In the evening, the Holy Communion was administer- ed, the Missionaries having previously met, to encourage each other to brotherly love, and that union oi spirit, 318 JOURNAL OF A without which the best intentions, plans, and talents, remain unprofitable in the service of God; for only " where brethren dwell together in unity, there the Lord commandeth his blessing." 14th. In the evening, the CafFre, Zaccheus Deba, came into my room, to take the letters I had written to GnadenthaL One object he had in view, in offering himself to go as messenger to Groenekloof, was to see me once more, and to tell me, that his wife had departed this life, rejoicing in God her Saviour. He added, that before her departure, she had particularly requested to be remembered to me, with that assurance, that she had continued to pray for me, that the Lord would bless me, and grant me a safe passage to England. 1 felt thankful for the prayers of this worthy woman, whom I had frequently seen, and conversed with, and knew as a very exemplary character. The mild, humble deport- ment of Zaccheus, was particularly noticed by a gentle- man present. 15th. I accompanied Mr. Melville to Capetown. We proceeded gently, engaged in pleasant conversation, and were seven hours on the road. At Mr. Melville's house, we found two gentlemen, just arrived from Van Diemen's Land. They gave an entertaining account of that earthly paradise. It would be tedious to relate, in order, all the various occupations and visits, by which my time was employed, during my present stay at Capetown. I will, therefore, only observe, that the society of my friends, the Disandt family, Mr. Hancke, Mr. Poleman, and the reverend Mr. Hesse, proved a source of great enjoyment to my mind. 18th. I attended divine worship, at the Lutheran church. The organist played more soberly than usual, but could not refrain from performing a very brilliant rondo, from one of Haydn's symphonies, when the ser- vice was over. I felt the impropriety of introducing it into the church, but could not help admiring the very great dexterity with which he executed the most difficult passages, and made them tell on the organ. I was dis- I VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 319 leased with myself, for not being more displeased with ira. With a very highly esteemed friend, I had a conver- sation on several subjects, which made a deep impres- sion upon me. Being rather of an anxious turn of mind, he expressed surprise at the confidence and cheerfulness of some Christians. He related, that he was educated in the celebrated Paedagogium at Halle in Saxony, where, contrary to the intention of its founders, he and others were taught to entertain scruples concerning the principal doctrines of Christianity, and to explain away those scriptures, which the JYeologen^ or Socinians and Deists, found to bear against their favourite opinions. But as he could find no comfort and peace in the new doctrines of self-enhghtened men, he began well to consider those which they had rejected, and, by slow degrees, seemed to obtain more faith in them, and to consider them as the basis of all sound religion. He wished, however, to know my views of that real and convincing experience of the efficacy of faith in Jesus, and the atonement made for sin, which a true believer o»ght to possess. I gave him a plain and faithful account of the manner, in which " it pleased God to reveal his Son in me," though natu- rally averse to religion, falsely supposing, that it tended to check all cheerfulness, and the enjoyment of the plea- sures of this life, whereas I now knew, that the only way to live happy, and innocently to enjoy that good, which God has left to us in this world, as " a witness for himself,'' for our use, improvement, and comfort, was to make sure, that He is our Father, Friend, and Deliverer from the curse and punishment of sin, as declared in the Gospel. My friend observed, that ever since he had become ac- quainted with me, he had wondered how a man of so lively a disposition, could belong to a community so re- cluse and religious as that of the Church of the Brethren, in which there were so many checks, by particular rules and regulations, against the ways of the world, and its pleasures and amusements. He added, however, that, in general, he had always found those members of our Church, with whom he had become acquainted, 320 JOURNAL OP A lively and cheerful people, and attentive to the inno- cent means of making their lives and dwellings on earth comfortable. This led to a consideration of the effects of true conversion of heart, when a man is turned from the love of the world and sin to his God and Saviour, and has his " conversation in hea- ven." To him it is no act of painful self-denial to avoid the things that lead from God, and no punish- ment to be excluded from them. Surely no one has more reason to be happy and contented than the man who expects, that better things than those, which he now possesses, will shortly be his portion : he uses the world, yet as not abusing or cleaving to it; and enjoys all the gifts of his Creator with a thankful heart But I felt, that I ought to take his remark as a kin^ admonition, to beware, lest too much vivacity and at- tention to objects, which afford pleasure to the mind, and engage the activity of the intellectual part of man, though sinless in themselves, should sometimes lead to forgetfulness of higher and more important spiritual concerns. With his Excellency the Governor, 1 had an opportu- nity of conversing on some arrangements at Groenekloof, by which real service was done to the Mission. From Colonel Bird, I experienced the same kindness. Brother Schmitt found Mr. Sieurvogel, a timber-mer- chant, disposed most honourably to abide by a verbal agreement respecting the price of the timber, wanted for the building of the church at Groenekloof, though by the loss of his vessel, the Young Phoenix, in the late storm, tuHber had risen considerably in price. But a conscientious man needs no legal tie, to bind him to a promise. For several nights I was much disturbed in my sleep by the continual barking and howhng of dogs in the street, about which the inhabitants seem not to trouble themselves. A large number of these animals have no masters, but find food, shelter, and places to litter in, wherever they can. The people go and pick out such puppies as they think will turn out well, and leave the VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 321 rest The heavy rain may have been troublesome to these stray-dogs, and the cause of their nightly vocifera- tions. Before I left Capetown, I visited the Rev. Mr. Thorn, employed by the Missionary Society in London, with whom I had much friendly conversation, concerning the state of their, and our Missions. I also waited upon the Senior Chaplain, the Rev. Dr. Jones, who returned to the Cape some time ago. His services to the colony have been highly beneficial, especially as it regards the improvement of schools. To his benevolent exertions, we owe the building of the school-house at Gnadenthal, and the introduction of Dr. Bell's plan of teaching, as far as it is practicable among Hottentot children. Brother Schmitt engaged a master-builder, Mr. Schroeder, to undertake the building of the new church at Groenekloof, who advised us to make as many bricks as we could. After a very pleasant visit, having transacted all our business with satisfaction, we took leave of our worthy friend and hospitable hostess, Mrs. Disandt, and return- ed, on the 22d, to Groenekloof with Mr. Slabbert, in his travel- ling wagon, he driving ten horses in hand. The four nearest to the wagon are guided by a servant with reins, while his master, sitting beside him on the box, governs the other six, by a dexterous use of the long whip. 23d. I was engaged with packing, intending to send a,ll our baggage on board the Brilliant, which, as the Cap- tain informed us, would be ready to sail by the «ftth of September. The Hottentots had not forgotten the bot- tle of serpents, but brought me a young pufFadder, and three chameleons. The chameleons were found in the nest of a yellow finch. The poplar wood at Groenekloof abounds with these nests. They are like bags, suspend- ed from the ends of the smaller branches of trees, to render them secure against serpents and vermin, but the chameleons had contrived to dislodge the poor birds, and seize upon the nest. The lateness of the sea- son prevented my taking any animals alive. My friends had provided for me several tortoises, chameleons, 41 322 JOURNAL OF A fresh water turtles, (a gmall turtle about four inches square,) and even a 3^oung baboon. 25th. In the afternoon the whole family, accompanied by Mr. Melville, visited the Oliphants' Klippen, (Ele- phants' stones,) near the Klaberfalg, Mr. Duckett's farm. They are detached masses of granite, erect, or in a lean- ing posture, situated in a valley, as if they had been thrown from an adjoining hill, or rather, left there by the washing away of the ground, when the valley was formed. Every eminence in this neighbourhood also, is crowned with a collection of stoqes, forming a kind of rock among the bushes. Many beautiful flowers were now beginning to peep out, as the spring was fast ad- vancing. 26th. Mr. Melville's wagon conveyed all my heavy baggage to Capetown. In the afternoon. Brother Bo- natz accompanied me on a visit to that part of the set-' tlement called Moy Mack's Revier, which lies to the right of the Cape road, on entering the farm. A small stream passes through it, crosses the road, and, skirting the little wood, helps to irrigate the grounds in that part of the village under the hill. The cottages are of the meaner kind : the gardens slope down towards the brook: the soil is a dry sand, and will require much culture, before it is turned into a fruitful mould. Peter, a Dambra Hottentot, has the best garden, and is an active man. The people seemed much pleased with our visit. We then went to the upper row of cottages, to the left of the road, and there saw a woman upwards of a hundred years old. Sister Schraitt, who had joined us, accosted her, but she appeared quite stupid. Her children and grandchildren live with her. She had been an inhabitant for six years, but seemed perfectly indifferent about religion. Of late, how- ever, she sometimes asked a person, in whom she had confidence, whether it were still possible for her to be saved. The people now begin to dig in their grounds, and in a short time they will look well. But for want of hedges, they cannot prevent their neighbours' cattle from entering their grounds, which sometimes produces Visit TO SOUTH AI'RICJA. 32S great uneasiness. Since, by the Governor's kindness, the boundary is now defined, and there need be no more contention about the wood, 1 endeavoured to impress upon the people the necessity of attending to the mak- ing of hedges, and that plantations should be promoted as much as possible, yet under proper regulations, that there may be no useless waste, or even destruction of the young trees, by improper* treatment, Mr. Croucher, who visited us about this time, gave the best advice^ being well versed in the management of woods. 27th. We visited that part of the village which we could not reach yesterday, for the inhabitants would have been greatly disappointed and grieved, if 1 had not called at every house and hut. In the evening, a couple were married at the church. 30th. Our friend, Mr. Slabbert, returning from the Cape, brought with him the master-builder, Mr. Schroe- der. With the latter, Mr. Melville and I conferred about the plan of the new church. In the valley to the north of the farm, we sought and found brick-earth, and^ on examination of the premises, Mr. Schroeder declared^ to our great satisfaction, that every facility existed here within reach: good clay for bricks, a sufficient quan*^ tity of stone, water, and the right sort of sand. He also pronounced the pipe-clay under the sand, to be a good foundation. I read my farewell-address this evening to a crowded auditory. After I had finished. Brother Bonatz took the chair; and, after making some observations on my visit and voyage, concluded with prayer, commending me and his son Adolph to the protection and blessing of the Lord. 31st. This was the day appointed for laying the foun- dation-stone of the new church. The ceremony took place at 10 A. M. Early in the mornings a number of Hotten-* tots had conveyed the stone from the hill to the spot They delighted in the work, and there was no want df hands. The stone was of a triangular shape, its south side, four feet five inches; east side, three feet six inches; north-east side, five feet six inches ; and one foot four 324 JOURNAL OF A inches in thickness. A square hole had been punched into it, to hold the leaden box, with the writing. The service was conducted in the following manner : Brother Schmitt opened it with that hymn;^^ASm^ hallelu- jah^ honour^ praise^ &c. and then addressed the congrega- tion in a suitable discourse. The people stood, both about the ditch, and within the space enclosed. He then read the texts of Scripture appointed for the day ; ^'' Re- joice^ because your names are wiitten in heaven, Luke x. 10. Many^ O Lord my God^ are Thy wonderful works^ which Thou hast done^ and Thy thoughts which are to us-ward: they cannot be reckoned up in oi'der unto Thee : if I would declare and speak of them^ they are more than can be numbered. Ps. xl. 5.'' Brother Fritsch read the Dutch translation of the contents of the parchment, which he held in his hand, and having delivered it to me, I placed it in the leaden box; Brother Stein deposited it in the foundation-stone. Mr. Schroeder followed, put a fiat stone over it, and gave a stroke upon it with a mallet. Each of us followed, re- peating the stroke, as is usually done on such occasions. A verse being sung, Brother Bonatz, kneeling upon the stone, offered up a prayer. The congregation then sung that hymn, JYow let us praise the Lord^ &c. and the bless- ing being pronounced, the assembly dispersed. It was a solemn and delightful service. The Hotten- tots seemed fixed to their places in attention and devo- tion ; and several friends, who were present, expressed their admiration both of their behaviour, their joyful songs of praise, and their fervent expressions of grati- tude to -God for the mercies bestowed upon them. A spirit of joy and gladness prevailed on this occasion, which, by God's blessing, gave a new stimulus to the ex- ertions of all engaged in the building, and contributed not a little to its completion, in a manner which has given general satisfaction. Mr. Schroeder, having given us some good advice, left us in the afternoon. We met this evening to make ar- rangements previous to my departure. There is in this country a plant, called by the Hotten- tots Dacha, a species of wild hemp, (cicuta.) Some of , them smoke it like tobacco, or mix it witli the latter herb, VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 325 and are exceedingly fond of it. Its effects upon the hu- man body are dreadful. It not only takes away the sen- ses for a season, even more completely than drunkenness^ but, by degrees, undermines the constitution, weakens every faculty of mind and body, and makes cripples of those that continue in the practice. It is necessary, therefore, that most determined resistance should be made against this destructive propensity, and by a rule estabhshed in our settlements, the use of dacha is to be entirely abandoned. Whoever is guilty of smoking it, is excluded ; but a seducer of others to the abominable practice, expelled. The chief complaint against the Hottentots is, that they are incorrigibly lazy, and unfit for labour. In most instances, the cause of it is the use of this poisonous herb. Who would believe, therefore, that the very men who complain, should encourage the growth of it in their grounds, and sell it to the Hottentots ! Yet this I have seen with my own eyes, even where I least suspected it. September 1st. Being Sunday, the Hottentots came in parties, between the services, to take leave of me^ and with many of them I entered into pleasant conversation. There Were some good spokesmen among them, who ex- pressed the sentiments of their brethren in very affec- tionate terms. Two Dambras, Ephraim and Peter, gave me particular satisfaction, by the modest, unaffected man- ner, in which they declared their gratitude and good- will. In the afternoon, all the missionaries met, when I had an opportunity of delivering my sentiments to them con- cerning the Mission in general, and their situation in par- ticular. In the evening, the Lord's Supper was adminis- tered to the communicant congregation, at which I assist- ed. If I were to express my feelings on this occasion, it would be but a repetition of what I have written concern- ing my last communion at Gnadenthal. The appearance, devotion, and attention of the Hottentot congregation at this place, was anew the subject of my admiration and thanksgiving for such a miracle of God's power and mercy. 326 JOURNAL OP A CHAPTER XXL Departurefrom Groenekloof. Detained at Veldcornet Ver^ wey. The Governor'' s offer of a passage in the Zebra sloop of war. Consequent arrangements. Visit to^ and de- scription of Constantia. Its Vineyards^ cellars^ and beau-- tiful situation. Return to Groenekloof September 2d was the day, when I expected to close my abode at Groenekloof. The visits of the Hottentots continued to the last moment before my departure. Mr. StoU, the landdrost of the Cape district, arriving here in the forenoon, expressed great satisfaction with the pre- sent state and progress of the Mission. He has always approved himself a friend, readj to give advice and as- sistance. Jacob Conrad, a Hottentot, of his own accord, offered his spann of eight horses, to convey me and my travel- ling companions to Capetown ; and as his wagon was a very inconvenient vehicle, Mr. Melville, who had given us the pleasure of his company for several days, lent us his travelHng wagon. After dinner, the family met in my room, and after a short address by Brother Bonatz, commended me and my young companion Adolph, to the grace and protection of God our Saviour, on our journey and voyage to En- gland. A considerable number of Hottentots had mean- while assembled before the door, with every one of whom I shook hands, and bid them farewell, not ex- pecting that I should so soon see them again. While we were entering the wagon, they sung a farewell-hymn, and accompanied us for about two miles, to Papkulls- fonteyn, not intimidated by the rain, which kept us shut up in the wagon. Sister Bonatz having taken an affectionate leave of her son Adolph, returned with the Hottentots, and the Bre- thren Fntsch and Stein. Her husband, and Brother Schmitt and his wife, accompanied us to the Cape. Mr. Melville rode on, to bespeak a night's lodging for us at the Veldcornet Mr. Verwey's, where we met with a cor- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 327 dial welcome, and good accommodations. It blew and rained hard all night, and in the morning of the 3d, we found it impossible to proceed. We were, however, well housed, in good spirits, and, contrary to expectation, spent the day very pleasantly, as each felt disposed. An old man, going from place to place, to teach the children reading, writing, and ciphering, but not good manners, which are not required, was at this time an inmate of the house, and, like most of these itinerant schoolmasters, seemed to lay down the law on all ques- tions of importance. It would be cruel and unwise to detract from their consequence or authority, by inter- ference or contradiction. The rain ceasing for an hour in the afternoon, we went to see the little Sout Revier, (Salt river,) which, even in winter, is but a small stream, but now, by the heavy rain, was swollen into a very deep and rapid tor- rent of considerable breadth. It is chieny owing to the want of the smaller streams and brooks, which, in Europe, descending from the hills, intersect the plains in all directions, that South Africa remains, and I fear must, in a great degree, remain a wilderness. After all the observations I have been able to make and to collect, during my journey through great part of the colony, I must ascribe this deficiency to the character of the South African mountains. Almost all their summits consist of precipitous rocks. Very little earth, consequently very few morasses are found upon them, and the rain, which is abundant in the rainy season, instead of falling on a spongy soil, retaining the water for a considerable time, and gradually dealing it out in rivulets and brooks, dashes with violence, from the rocks, down the steep declivities, and in destructive torrents sweeps along the kloofs and valleys, frequently and suddenly destroying the labours of many years in places, where, in summer. a small streamlet scarcely furnishes water suflicient for the use of a family. The bushes, covering a great part of the waste, preserve, by their shade, some moisture on the ground, and are providentially furnished with roots of disproportionate thickness, which, imbibing the water, 328 JOURNAL OF A give them sustenance, and maintain their verdure in the dry season. It is also said, that in many beds of tor- rents, by digging, water may be found, though the heat of the sun has banished all appearance of it from the surface. 4th. Though the rain had continued violent all night, we ventured to proceed. Heavy showers occurred all day; but when we proposed to spend the night at the Riet Valley, the friendly farmer advised us rather to push on, and, avoiding the Drift, which was by this time an unsafe fording-place, to cross the Sandhills, and drive along the beach. We followed his advice, found the beach a good hard road, and though the surf looked rather wild, and in some places rushed in upon us as high as the axle-trees, we got on well, Mr. Melville and his groom Jephtha riding before us. By God's mercy, we passed safely through the little Drift, and the broad sheet of water at the Great Salt river, which were both of considerable depth. 5th. My friend, Mr. Hancke, informed me, that owing to the rough weather, the Brilliant had not been able to take all her cargo on board, and would not sail as soon as first intended. All our baggage was yet on shore, which afterwards proved of advantage to me. I was engaged all day in visiting my friends. At the Colonial Office I called upon Colonel Bird to thank him for the many civilities experienced from him during my stay in the colony. The Governor was not at home, but in the evening, wrote a note to inquire, whether I would return to England in the Zebra sloop of war. In answer, I informed his Excellency, that I had taken my passage on board the Brilliant brig. Captain Young. We spent a very pleasant evening with the Rev. Mr. Hesse, where we met the Rev. Mr. Thom, who declar- ed his intention of making a journey into the interior, to visit Kango cave, and endeavour to ascertain the geo- graphical position of sundry places. His object also was to preach to the Hottentots and slaves, wherever he might find an opportunity, 6th. After breakfast, having received a note from his Excellency, I waited upon him at the Government-house. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 329 He observed, that he deserved no thanks for offering me^ a passage on board the Zebra, as he was seeking his own profit by it, wishing me to accompany his son Flan- tagenet, who was going to England in that vessel. I felt greatly distressed not to be able immediately to com- ply with his wish, the more so, as it was my duty to show, by every means consistent with prior obligations^ my gratitude to him for the great kindness he had shown me, during my stay in the colony. The engagement I had made with Captain Young was easily dissolved, but my promise to take home the son of my friend Bonatz seemed an insurmountable obstacle. It is needless here to enter into a detail of the conversations and negotia- tions that passed on this subject, suffice it to say, that though the father's disappointment and uneasiness were great, on first mentioning to him his Excellency's pro- posals, yet as both he, and the rest of my companions, were desirous that I might yield to the Governor's wishes, an arrangement was made, by which I was set at liberty, to the entire satisfaction of the father, to w hom I considered myself bound by previous promise. The Captain was a man, in whose faithfulness he could place full rehance, and a family, going home as passengers on board the Brilliant, were wiHing to pay every attention to his son. Having paid the Captain half of the passage- money, I put myself under the direction of the Governor^ and of Captain Henry Forbes, commander of the Zebra^ to whom his Excellency had previously introduced me* The Zebra was to sail on the 20th. 8th. Though the termination of this affair had been completely satisfactory to all parties, yet some gloomy thoughts continued to haunt my mind, regarding the ex- traordinary situation, into which I had been so unexpect- edly thrown. Nor did I willingly part with my young friend Adolph, whose affectionate disposition and good sense had made his constant attendance in my various walks about Groenekloof very pleasant to me. But as I verily believe that nothing happens to me, but by the permission of God, to whom I have fully committed my- self in all my ways, I endeavoured to "cast my burden upon the Lord," and to believe, that all things would 4^ 330 JOURNAL OF A work together for my good. Of this I have now made full experience. Mr. and Mrs. Melville set out this morning for Groene- kloof After thej^ were gone, we went to the parade, where the military were drawn up to receive General Sir Alexander Campbell. 1 spent a good part of the forenoon with Mr. Polenian, in whose company I always receive much pleasure and information. We dined at home, to celebrate Mr. Grant's birthday, and spent the evening most agreeably with the Rev. Mr. Hesse. He and his family were going into the country, and fearing that I should not see them again, I took leave of them. 9th. This day was devoted to a trip to Constantia. Mr. Hancke was the contriver and director of this ex- cursion. He had provided two sociables and six. The company consisted of Mr. Hancke, a lady of his acquaint- ance. Brother Schmitt and his wife, Brother Bonatz and his son, and myself We set out at six o'clock, and took the road by Newlands. The weather was delightful. The oaks and other foreign trees were fast getting into leaf, and throughout all nature, spring showed itself swiftly approaching. Our conductor ordered the carriages to proceed by a road, which gave us a view of several romantic situations. We passed through the Wynberg-camp, a place I was glad to see, as having been the residence of our late i^issionary, P. Kohrhammer, when, in 1805, he was ap- pointed Chaplain to the Hottentot regiment by Governor Jansen. The camp lies in an elevated situation, and is considered the most healthy spot in the neighbourhood of Capetown. The soldiers are quartered in barracks. An extensive prospect opens from hence across the Cape Downs, towards the mountains of Stellenbosgh and Simon's Bay. About half past nine we arrived at the house of Mr. Colin, one of the proprietors of Constantia and soq-in- law to Mr. Cloete, by whose family we were kindly and hospitably received. After a short introductory conver- sation, we walked out to see the gardens. They lie in a hollow, below the house, and are laid out in tlxe Dutch style, with a covered walk. The vineyards are situated VISIT TO SOUTH APRICA. 331 on an eminence, gently sloping towards the east Many of the vines are old, and will be removed next year, to make room for others. They are without spaliers or poles, standing singly, like currant-bushes in a garden. The rich, sweet, Constantia vine grows only within a certain boundary. Mr. Colin, junior, pointed out a hedge, behind which, all attempts to raise the same grape have failed. We now walked across part of a farm, belonging to Mr. Sebastian Van Rhenen, who is preparing to make^ vineyards, and hopes, in a few years, successfully to vie with Messrs. Cloete and Colin, as he supposes the soil to be of the same quality. On the road we met a Hottentot boy, who had just killed a black serpent, about five feet long, and an inch and a half in diameter. After a pleasant walk, we reached Mrs. Van Hel- stinge's house. The old lady received us very politely, and insisted upon our tasting all the different wines made on her property. Among them were Hahnen Pootgen, white and red ; Frontiniac ; Klipp-wine, and another, of a rough taste. From her garden, a charming view pre- sents itself A narrow, woody glen, with a pretty villa at the farther end, belonging to one of her relations, runs up to the south-east side of the Table Mountain. Over the woods to the left, are seen the rocks and mountains forming Hout-bay. Near the dwelling, an avenue of large oaks affords some shade, but little attention has been paid, either to convenience or elegance. We returned through a forest of Witteboom, in which the late storm had done much mischief Many hundred trees were thrown down, or torn up by the roots. On our return, Mr. Colin took us into his cellar, or rather warehouse, a long building, containing casks holding several tuns of wine, standing upon racks, in rows, down each side, leaving a wide passage between them. In the centre stands a table, set round with sophas and chairs, where the company is regaled with some of the choicest Constantia, at the fountain-head. After dinner, as soon as the cloth was removed, a merry fellow entered the room, took a chair, and seat- ing himself between two ladies, began to talk, laugh. 333 JOURNAL OF A and drink wine, as if he were one of the party. This man was an old slave, of a frolicsome turn, kept for the amusement of the family. He addressed me, in gib- berish, which I did not understand, but suppose I lost no instruction by it. Though his office seemed to be that of a jester, kept to fill up the vacuities occurring in African conversation, his presence was very annoying. Much rather would we have seen the natural grimaces and tricks of a tame baboon, generally holding the same situation with many farmers in the interior, than such a prostitution of human intellect. After dinner, we visited Mr. Cloete. His house, which is not far from that of his son-in-law, is situated on an eminence, commanding an extensive prospect over the Cape Downs, to the Hangeklip, on False-bay. The house and premises are well built, and prove the long- existing wealth of the owners. Constantia was built and settled by the celebrated Governor Van Stell, the founder of Stellenbosch, who, by his superior sense and liberal mind, proved a great promoter of the welfare of this colony. He named the place Constantia, in honour of his wife, that being her Christian name. He was a man of great activity; en- terprising, and generous. Many of the best situations in the colony owe their origin to him. But it is said, that the Company gained nothing under him, as he studied only his own private interest. Be it so ; they have, how- ever, been great gainers by the effects of his industry, and, no doubt, he deserved to reap the benefit of his talents, while he lived. Two statues, in niches, one over the door of the mansion, and the other over the cellar- door, are intended to represent the lady Constantia. After walking out to see the vineyards, which are very extensive, we spent an hour in pleasant conversa-^ tion. The cellar is constructed lik^ that of Mr. Colin, and his wine not superior. Adjoining the cellar, is a room with a billiard-table. From the back-door, a flight of stone steps leads to a l^rook in a close vale. Mr. Cloete has always been a friend to the missionaries ^t Groenekloof, and vyas some time ago their neighbour^ VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 333 He is now lame, and thought that he could not return the visit at Groenekloof. A large grove of old oaks, planted in quincunx, affords shade to the premises, and the plantations are kept ia good order. There is an appearance of ancient gran- deur about the place, v^^hich pleased us much. In the hall stands a stalactite, taken out of a cave near Caledon, about eight or nine feet in length. It is set upon its broad top, and narrowing fast towards the middle, made a Dutchman think that its beauty consisted in its resem- blance to a huge candlestick, with the candle in it. That vitiated taste, however, is fast declining among the Dutch, and nature is no longer outraged as formerly, when trees and hedges, cut into all manner of shapes, constituted the beauty of a Dutch garden. At this ab- surdity we Enghsh laugh, while we are committing a far greater outrage, in cruelly maiming horses, dogs, and cats, by cutting off their tails and ears, to improve their beauty ! After taking a dish of tea in the English fashion, we bid adieu to our hospitable host, and returned to town. The evening of this bright and very hot day, turned out so cold, that we were glad to get soon housed, and com- fortably seated at Mrs. Disandt's fireside. 10th. I had a long conversation at the Government- house with the Rev. Mr. Hough, and afterwards with his Excellency in his study. We dined with Mr. Sebastian Van Rhenen, and spent the rest of the day agreeably with our friends. 12th. I dined with the Governor. A mail having arri- ved from England, much interesting intelligence was communicated. Captain Forbes informed me, that the Zebra would come round to Table-bay at the end of the week, and that I might entertain hopes of soon following the Brilliant. I then prepared to return to Groenekloof, where I intended patiently to wait, till summoned to go on board. 14th. Having paid several short farewell-visits, we left Capetown in Mr. Slabbert's wagon, w^ith ten horses in hand. When we arrived at the Drift, near the Riet Valley^ 334 JOURNAL OF A seven oxen were lying dead on its bank. They belong- ed to a wagon with fourteen, which had attempted to cross the Drift, when, by advice of the farmer, we took the road along the beach, as mentioned above (p. 328.) The water being very deep, and the stream too powerful, the poor creatures were taken off their feet. The wagon was saved with difficulty, and seven of the fourteen oxen were drowned. The carcasses had been skinned, and left to tbe^wolves and jackals. Our horses took fright at the disgusting sight, and set off with us into the bushes, but the skill of our driver soon brought them again into order. CHAPTER XXIL Sailing of the Brilliant. Iron plough. Seacoast near GaensekraaL Mr, Dashwood'^s farm. Shells used for lime. Account of the Dunen. Waxberry bushes^ and manner of boiling wax. Laatste Stuiver. Brick-making. Visit Fapkulls'fonteyn^ Wolfskloof Burger'^s post^ and Lange- fonteyn. Sand-fies. Arrival of Gnadenthal masons. Mr. Melville. Second farewell at Groenekloof. Hotten^ tots'^ manner of setting a brick-kiln. Departure from Groe- nekloof September 15th. My return to Groenekloof was unex- Eected ; but I was again welcomed with much cordiality, oth by the missionaries and the Hottentots. By a letter from Brother Bonatz, we were informed that the Brilliant sailed to-day. The sailing of this ves- sel raised the first serious disquietude in my mind, as I had very slight hopes of soon following and overtaking her, before she reached England. Pleasant as my stay at the Cape has been, yet, thinking that I had executed my commission, I now felt somewhat restless, wishing to re- turn to my duties at home. 17th. I rode with Brother Fritsch to the Groote Post, to show him the new iron plough mentioned above, (p. 313,) hoping that it might, with advantage, be intro- duced at Groenekloof, where agriculture is yet conducted VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 335 after the Hottentot fashion. Mr. Croucher being absent, a Serjeant of dragoons attended us. We looked at seve- ral ploughs of English construction, and I was glad to be informed, that the manufactory, established here, can- not furnish them fast enough for the increasing calls from the interior. Some have lately been sent to Uitenhagen. This shows an increase of good sense, and a decrease of prejudice in favour of the old, clumsy, wooden, Hotten- tot plough. On our road home, we passed through the Klaberfalg, the residence of Mr. Duckett. 18th. Mr. Duckett, jun. called upon us, with an invi- tation from his father to dinner. As I expected every day to be my last at Groenekloof, we declined it, but in the afternoon. Brother Schmitt took a ride with me to his house. The road leads thTough the upper or eastern part of the village. After passing the Elephant-stones, the valley is narrow, but rich and fertile, and Mr. Duckett, being an excellent farmer, makes the most of it. The low- hills to the right are adorned with a profusion of wild bush- es, with huge blocks of granite, fancifully dispersed among them. Their summits are crowned with assemblages of the same stone, forming broken rocks. We saw Mr. Duckett in his garden, alighted, and joined him. Groene- kloof being this year rather scantily supplied with gar- den-produce, he kindly offered, out of his abundance, to give us what we might send for. When we arrived at the house, we were kindly re- ceived by Mrs. Duckett, who treated us with the most friendly attention. The conversation turned upon im- provements in farming, and furnished an opportunity of removing some misunderstanding. Perceiving that I was an admirer of natural curiosities, Mr. Duckett presented me with the tail of a pylstort, (arrow-tail,) a fish caught in Simon's-bay. The tail itself is slender, and about fourteen inches in length. From the upper part of its in- sertion into the body, proceed two sharp bones, serrated on both sides, placed above each other, the lower, three, the upper, two inches long, which the fish can turn in any direction, inflicting a most severe and dangerous wound on its enemy. Every tooth of this bony saw acts 336 JOURNAL OF A as a barb, and if once inserted, cannot be extracted witii- out great laceration of the flesh. It attacks sharks and other large fish with impunity, as all dread the experi- ment of having their throats pierced by such formidable weapons. The specimen given to me was taken with a shark. I was glad to have paid this visit, which seemed, for the future, to ensure the friendship of a very respectable neighbour. 19th. This morning, Mr. Fisher, the mason, with a party of our own Hottentots, and a slave belonging to Mr. Schroeder, began to work at the foundation of the new church. The huge stones, brought from the aloe- garden, now came into use, and were placed in the trench. They form a foundation unusually strong. Though I was much engaged w^ith writing, I could not forbear going out sometimes to see the people at work, and was highly gratified with their cheerful diligence. In the evening. Brother Bonatz returning from the Cape, brought me the unpleasant intelligence, that the Zebra would not sail before the beeinnino: of Oc- 1 O t) tober. 20th. Though it rained all day, our Hottentot masons went on with their work at the foundation. In the eve- ning, a Government messenger arrived, on his way to Saldanha-bay. He had fallen from his horse and hurt his thigh and arm, but found here relief and good quarters. Two plans of the front of the new church, one proposed by the builder, Mr. Schroeder, and the other by Mr. Mel- ville, were submitted to the family. The latter, being the most tasteful, was unanimously approved ; a decision worthy to be imitated by parish-vestries and building- committees, in our enlightened country. I was desired to write to Gnadenthal and encourage the Hottentots to come to the assistance of their brethren in forwarding the work. 21st. Mr. Melville accompanied me on a walk through the settlement. We conversed with several families, and I thought I perceived a rising disposition for the improvement of their grounds, which deserves encourage- ment. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 337 22d. A young woman departed this life in the faith of Christ, bearing witness to all present of the happiness of those, who find mercy, and obtain assurance of their being accepted, through His merits and all-sufficient atonement. Her funeral was attended by a numerous company. Brother Schmitt addressed himself particu- larly to the young people, whom he exhorted to follow the example of their deceased friend, to forsake the world with its vanities and pollutions, and to press for- ward to the attainment of tnat same faith and hope of eternal life, which had supported her during a linger- ing illness, and in the awful moment of death, and en- abled her to leave the world, rejoicing in her God and Redeemer. His serious and affectionate discourse seemed to make a deep impression on the audience. The funeral was conducted with the greatest order and devotion, as described in my account of Gnaden- thai, (p. 91.) 23d. Having written a letter to the congregation at Gnadenthal, as requested above. Brother Stein set out this morning, as our envoy, to convey our wishes to our Brethren, and to the Hottentots, in that settlement. Immanuel went with him, as groom. The weather turning out fine, the Brethren Schmitt and Fritsch ac- companied me to Gaensekraal, near the seacoast, on a visit to Mr. Dashwood. The road is uninteresting, leading through a barren, sandy wilderness, with not a cultivated spot on either side. But the bountiful Creator has likewise here clothed the waste with an incompara- ble profusion of flowers, which, in some places, cover the sand between the bushes, as with a rich carpet. We discovered several tortoises waddling along, and took up five, being varieties of the same species, but of different shades of colouring. One was new to us, having pro- tuberances on the seams enclosing each compartment ol the shell. To our great disappointment, we found an empty house at Gaensekraal. We therefore left our prey nnd our great coats with a dragoon, and proceeded through a level country, overgrown with large bushes, to the sea- coast. The mole-holes not a little annoyed us and our 43 ySB JOURNAL OF A horses. Several antelopes started up close to us, and the ne3,rer we approached the coast, the more dense was the thicket, so as to render it difficult to penetrate to the water's edge, which, where nearest, may be about two miles from the farm. Many speckbooms, olive, and milk-bushes, are intermixed with the rhinoceros bushes, in wild Goofusion. The coast is not high, but rocky, with a broken beach and sand. A strong westerly wind caused a considerable swell and surf, which, after dis- mounting on the beach, kept us at a respectful distance from the advancing surges. On their retreat, we discor vered a fine hard sand, but durst not venture to walk upon its smooth surface. An innumerable quantity of large muscles coyer the coast every where, mixed here and there with the beautiful sea-ear and other shells, peculiar to these regions, but all in a broken state. The shells are brought by cart-loads to the farms, and burnt in kilns, as lime for mortar. The rocks are a dark-gray schistus, with narrow veins of quarts. Finding it too troublesome to lead the horses more than about an English mile over the rough shells and pebbles, we returned to Gaensekraal. The sandy road exhibited the fresh track of a wolf. This bushy coast is infested by wolves and leopards, which commit many de- predations in the neighbouring farms. While we rested at the house, I wrote a letter to Mr. Dashwood, to explain a mistake respecting a strange Hottentot in his service, who pretended to belong to Groeneklqof. This fellow having been guilty of pilfer- ing, in his flight, passing through Groenekloof, left the stolen property on the roof of a cottage, which caused the inhabitant to be suspected by Mr. Dashwood, as be- ing in league with the thief, though quite ignorant of the transaction. Mr. Dashwood expressed himself perfectly satisfied with the explanation given, and I felt anxious to remove the unpleasant impression made by misrepresen- tation, purposely employed by a known enemy to the Mission, in the mind of a man, who always had been well- disposed towards it. Gaensekraal is a good farm ; the buildings are supe- rior to many in the country, and the grounds extensive. VISIT t«0 SOUTH APIllCA;^ 339 but bare of trees. The little wood, which formerly adorned the premises, was cut down, under an idea, that it harboured birds, particularly a kind of starlings, that do great mischief in the fields. But no where have I seen such flights of these birds as in Mr. Dashwood's grounds. Thus the place had been robbed of its beauty, to little purpose. On our journey home, we did not see one tortoise to add to our collection, but some curious beetles and lizards. 24th. Every morning I am greeted by the pleasant chirping of two swallows, cock and hen, which have a nest in a corner of the room, under the ceiling. There is hardly a room, kitchen, or out-house in the country without these inmates, and it would be thought next ta murder to kill them. They build their nests of clay, in the shape of a bottle, the bottom being fixed to the wallf and the neck serving for the entrance. Into these bottle- shaped nests, they convey the softest down. As far as I was able to watch them, both cock and hen assist in the construction, or repairs of the nest, which remains for their use during their emigration. The same birds al« ways return to the same nests, and if it happens, that, by white- washing the room, the outside of the nest has beeti whitened, they carefully cover about half the length of the neck with fresh clay, before they make a new bed* As the upper half of the room-door generally stands open during the day, they go in and out whenever they please, but if the door is shut, they give notice of their wish to go abroad, to fetch either materials or food, by a gentle piping and flying about the room, and none think it too troublesome to let them out. At dawn of day, they are heard chirping their morning-song, before they leave the nest. I have often left my bed, to open the door for them. These birds are shaped like the European swallows^ but, under their wings, of a red-brown colour. They leave the country during the winter. They are persecu- ted by a bird called the wild swallow, black and white irt colour, which is said to kill the domestic one, and seize upon its nest. The wild are on that account shot, or otherwise destroyed by the Hottentots* 340 JOtJRNAL OP A This being Sister Schmitf s birth-day, the Hottentots, particularly the girls belonging to her school, did every thing in their power to show their affection and esteem for her, and I was again delighted with the sincere and %vell-merited expression of their gratitude for her faith- fulness and kindness towards them. We had an agreeable visit from Mr. Stoll, landdrost of the Cape district, Dr. Liesching, and Mr. Gieh, who walked through every part of the settlement with appro- bation. It afforded a desirable opportunity of giving explanations, and rectifying some erroneous notions. 25th. Having heard much of the singular appearance of the range of Dunen, or sand-hills, along the coast, I rode thither with Brother Fritsch, and was struck with surprise, when we entered among them. Their appear- ance from Groenekloof is rather unpleasant, and not un- like a low sandy dyke, skirting the waste in a straight line. But I found them occupying a very wide field, ex- tending to several miles from the seacoast. The fine sand, which is chiefly pulverized quartz, and as white as snow, is here blown about, like sleet on a frozen surface, forming hillocks of considerable height, and in shape re- sembling huge drifts of snow. The flats between them are destitute of any verdure, the surface being almost constantly in motion. To-day the south-east wind blew pretty strong, and small parallel ridges were continually forming over the whole surface, by its operation upon the sand. In other parts, especially where deep recesses or glen^ are defended by the hillocks, the waxberry-bush has found shelter, sChd growls in great abundance. To a superficial observer, it appears not unlike box. Some of the stems are as thick as a man's leg, and the bushes from eight to ten ket in height. Our path wound round between the hillocks, sometimes over soft sand, through which the horses waded heavily, and again over a hard bottom, like frozen snow. In a deep glen, we saw several of our people from Groene- kloof, diligently employed in gathering wax-berries. They sent a little boy to show us the way to a place sur- rounded by high banks, where they had erected a hut^ and kept their apparatus for boiling the berries, and ex- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 341 tracting the wax. The renters of the neighbouring farms claim a right to this property, and our people were re- quired to ask their permission to gather the berries. Though this had been done, a man had yesterday warn- ed off the women engaged in boiling wax ; they had therefore hid their iron pot, for fear of seizure. But on discovering us to be friends, they produced it, and show- ed us the process, which is perfectly simple. The pot is hung over the fire, by running a thick stick through its handle, which is supported at each end, by a fork placed in the ground, at a convenient distance from the fire. After the berries have boiled some time, the wax appears on the surface of the water, and is skimmed off with a spoon. Two kinds of wax-berry bushes grow here, one smaller than the other. The berries of both have much the appearance of those of the juniper. From hence we rode to the Laatste Stuiver, a parcel of land containing much sweet grass, and wax-berry bushes, for the possession ^f which the missionaries had applied to Government, that they and their Hottentots might have a change of food for the cattle. But it had already been advertised to be disposed of to the best bidder. 27th. In the afternoon, I walked out to see the brick- makers. A number of girls had offered their services, to place the new-made bricks in rows to dry, and as amusement accompanied the work, nothing could exceed their diligence. Some, who think working in their fields and gardens a labour too great to be supported for any length of time, work here and in the quarry, for many hours successively, with a zeal, activity, ,and good-humour, which surprised me. Hitherto the weather had favoured us, but most of the bricks, in drying, cracked by the heat of the sun. This was afterwards avoided, by different management in mixing the clay. During the latter days of the month, I spent my time chiefly at my desk, relieved by a daily morning-walk to the masons and brick-makers, and an evening's visit to the quarry, which proved more and more productive. October 2d. Brother Fritsch rode with me to Pap- kulls-fonteyn farm, inhabited by a friendly neighbour. 342 JOURNAL OF A We took the road round Cruy vvagens-kraal hill, crowned, hke others, with loose masses of granite, som;e of which have fanciful shapes. Not finding our friend at home-, we conversed some time with the family at the door, without quitting our horses. They showed us a young cub of a baboon, brought from the mountain, which, of all creatures I have yet seen, was the most frightfully disgusting object, and in its manners equally unpleasant, squeaking, jabbering, and twinkling its eyes in a head and wrinkled face too large for the body. We kept on the north side of the hills with the im- mense waste of Zwartland to our right, and beyond it the beautiful ranges of mountains from the Piquetberg to the Hangeklip. At the back of the Lauweskloof hill, is the Wolfskloof, into which we penetrated as far as we were able. The singular rocks or fragments of stone lying, or standing upright, either on the summit or de- clivity, deserve notice. Cattle were feeding among the bushes, and, as the herdsmen informed us, safely, though the whole region is considered as the haunt of wolves and tygers. Several ledges of rocks, which overhang dells, filled with high bushes, form here snug retreats for wild beasts of every description. Formerly it was a noted haunt, and now and then one of the above-men- tioned animals is seen and hunted in the kloof. From hence we rode to the Burgers Post, and paid a short visit to Mr. Eckstein. On the road. Brother Fritsch was thrown from his horse, and we were thankful that no harm was done. In the afternoon the Governor, with his usual retinue, passed through our premises. He informed me that Cap- tain Forbes, in going to Simon's bay, had met with a severe fall, which would confine him for some days, but that the first lieutenant would bring the ship round to Table-bay. 3d. Brother Stein, having returned from Gnadenthal, gave us a very interesting account of his visit. Many Hottentots, on hearing my letter, had declared their in- tention to come and help their brethren here in the build- ing of the new church. I much regretted, that I had not accompanied him. During the forenoon, I rode with VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. SV3 Brother Schmitt to Langefonteyn, to pay a farewell-visit to our worthy friend, Mr. Dirk Slabbert, but we did not find him at home. The sun shining very warm, we were much troubled with a species of sand-fly, which fixes upon the face, ears, and neck, if not defended by crape or some other means, to the great annoyance of tra- vellers. 4th. Our good-natured Hottentots, perceiving that I had begun to collect serpents, brought me several kinds, among which were the nachtschlange, (night-serpent ;) earth-serpent ; eyerfreter, (egg-eater ;) schaapsteker, (sheep-stinger ;) and cobra di capella. 5th. Brother Schmitt went to town, to attend a sale of iron, and several articles useful for the building. I had the pleasure of Mr. Melville's company, who was still dili- gently employed in measuring the whole district ofGroe- jnekloof. Several Hottentot workmen arrived from Gna- denthal, for whose board and lodging provision had been made. They visited all the missionaries on the 6th, and expressed their willingness to assist in build- ing the church, and their happiness to make acquaintance with their Groenekloof brethren, in a manner which gave me renewed pleasure, for it was a display of that union of heart, which exists among real Christians of all classes. In their behaviour, that blessed truth seemed, in a great degree, established, that the " fruits of the Spirit are love, joy, peace, long-suffering, gentleness, goodness, faith, meekness, temperance." Nothing surely is more encouraging, than to behold these effects of the preach- ing of the gospel to the heathen, as sure proofs, that it has been received in faith. 7th. Mr. Melville was obliged to leave us for some time. We parted from each other with mutual regret. I shall ever remember with gratitude to God, by what unforeseen circumstances we were made acquainted with each other, that he might be led to accompany us on our reconnoitring-journey into the interior. In a variety of ways, his presence afforded us assistance, comfort, and delight, and I pray, that he may be rewarded with a full enjoyment of every temporal and spiritual blessing. 8th. In the morning, at tvvo o'clock, Brother Schmitt 344 JOURNAL OP A returned from the Cape, and informed me, that the Zebra was to sail on Sunday next. This made me resolve to go to-morrow to Capetown, to be in readiness. In the forenoon, Mr. Slabbert, in his travelling-wagon and ten horses, passing through Groenekloof to the Cape, offered to take me with him, but the missionaries prevailed upon me to decline it, and to follow in the mornmg on horse- back : nor was my impatience to proceed homeward powerful enough to repress the rising regret I felt at parting a second time from friends, endeared to me by so many considerations. I spent the greater part of the day in once more walk- ing through the settlement, and visiting its inhabitants. I was accompanied by one or other of the missionaries in my different walks. The Hottentots, at work at the brick-kiln, gave me a last proof of their attachment to old habits. While I was watching their setting it up^ a boor, who is much engaged in the same work, came riding towards us, and began to take them to task : " You must do so and so,'' said he ; " you know nothing about setting up a kiln, your bricks will never get burnt, &c.'' To every sentence, their answer was, '^ Ya, Myn- heer! Ya, Mynheer !" Having finished his lecture, the boor rode off in a gallop, but was no sooner out of hearing than they began to make their remarks : " That man," said they, '' thinks himself very wise, because he is a rich boor ; but we must do our own way, or the bricks will never be burnt. His bricks are accustomed to his way, but our bricks can only be burnt in our way." They seem to have been in the right, for I have since heard, that their kiln answered perfectly well, and their bricks were remarkably good. In the evening-meeting at the chapel, Brother Schmitt once more commended me to the blessing and protection of God, in fervent prayer, and the congregation again expressed their best wishes for me. 9th. I rose, intending to set out early, to prevent any stir, but in vain. The Hottentots came early to bid me a last adieu, and to show their affection, by every token of good-will. Young and old would give me their hands, and then joined in singing a farewell-hymn. The mis- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 345 sionaries likewise assembled, as before, and I truly felt the value of their love and intercession. Every one o£ ihem has shown the greatest kindness towards me, and none with more unabated faithfulness and zeal than Brother Schmitt and his wife, w^ith whom I have spent most of my time at the Capp, JBut it is time to set bounds to my expressions of gratitude towards them, which may already appear to some of my readers tedious and im- pertinent About half past seven o'clock, I left Groenekloof, ac- companied by Brother Schmitt as far as Brakfonteyn. There I parted from that worthy man, who returned to his zealous and indefatigable labours. May God's bless- ing attend him yet for many years, with health and strength, equal to his devotedness and desire to serve the cause of his Saviour, either here, or in any other part of South Africa. Brother Fritsch proceeded with me to the Cape. We halted about an hour at Mr. Beester's house at the Riet Valley, and though it began to rain hard, rode on, and arrived, thoroughly soaked, with our friends, at Mrs. Disandt's house, where we were receiv- ed with their wonted kindness and cordiality. CHAPTER XXIII. Capetown. Visits to friends. Mr. and Mrs. Sheridan. Arrangements on board the Zebra. Rev. Mr. Hesse^s return to Europe regretted at the Cape. Duties of a Lutheran minister. Pedestrian expedition round the Lion^s head. Visit the eountry-residences of Messrs. Horak^ Beek^ Ziegler and Dr. Liesching. Vieio of the coast to the south. Final conversations with the Gover- nor. Mr. Wilberforce Bird. Take leave, and go on board the Zebra. Manner of receiving the Governor on board. October 10th. I waited on Captain Forbes at the Government-house, and obtained a letter from him to the first lieutenant of the Zebra, with which I went on 44 346 JOURNAL OF A board, accompanied by Mr. Daniel Disandt, and Brother Fritsch, to see the accommodations prepared for me. I found them quite sufficient for my purpose. By the Captain's kind attention to my wishes, 1 had a small cabin to retire into, which held my bed, a chair, and wash-stand ; besides being with the Captain during the day. After my return, I went w^ith Mr. Hancke to pay some visits, and spent as much time as I could with my worthy friends, the Rev. Mr. Hesse and Mr. Poleman. 1 dined with the Governor, and there met Mr. and Mrs. Sheridan. With the latter, I had much pleasant conver- sation. The party then attended an instrumental con- cert, given by Mr. Lemming. When we entered the hall, ''^ God save the khifr'''^ was played, in honour of his Excellency, as the King's representative, I admired Mr. Lemming's performance on the violin; the band consisted partly of dilettanti. 11th. Time was too short to attend to all the engage- ments made, but we spent a very agreeable afternoon with the Rev. Mr. Hesse, Mr. Poleman being of the party. 12th. In the morning, Brother Fritsch returned to Groenekloof. I felt a pecuHar pang at parting from the last of my dear Cape Brethren. I then walked towards the Government-house, to finally settle with Captain Forbes about my going on board, but was met by the Governor, who informed, me, that precisely at day- break, on Wednesday morning, the Zebra would leave the bay. This prolongation of time I wished to improve as much as possible, in the enjoyment of the company and conversation of friends. I. 3th. In the forenoon, Mr. Edward Grant and Mr. D. Disandt accompanied me on board the Zebra, where we met Captain Forbes and several officers. I found every attention paid to my convenience. Into my little private cabin, sufficient light is admitted by a bull's eye. I dined at the Rev. Mr. Hesse's, who entered upon the object of his intended return to Europe. Mr. Poleman, anxious to retain so valuable a character at the Cape, made friendly remonstrances, which led our friend into ,a detail, to show his reasons for taking such a step. ViaiT TO SOUTH AFRICA, 34/ Thej were sufficiently cogent. To me it was interest- ing, on this occasion, to obtain some information con- cerning the duties of a Lutheran minister, which are by no means small, nor in their performance optional. Far from wishing to withdraw from these obligations, Mr. Hesse lamented, that the indifference of the congrega- tion had long ago caused many of them, which were for- merly considered as of the greatest importance, to be abandoned, and that, if the minister were entirely to relax in the performance of his duties, it would give to most of them very little concern. He is now required once a year to visit the families in their dwellings, in company of an oudering or deacon. This is generally done about Passion-week, but by many of his parishioners considered an intrusion. They have, however, built a spacious parsonage-house^ and a large, handsome church, and, in general, behave towards their minister w^ith generous attention to his comforts. Externally, therefore, our reverend friend had no hopes of a better situation, but that was not his object. The state of his health also, and the education of his children seemed to require his return. My long visit to this colony had made me so far participate in its welfare, that I joined Mr. Poleman in his objections, as both his congregation, the public, and aur Mission, will experience great loss by Mr. Hesse's removal. During my last stay at Capetown, I made a point of returning home every evening to supper, that I might enjoy the society of my worthy hostess, Mrs. Disandt, and her family. 14th. A pedestrian expedition round the Lion's head having been planned by Mr. Hancke, we were not deter- red by the appearance of a rainy day, but having met at Mr. Poleman's house, set out. The company consisted of Messrs. Hancke, Poleman, Hesse, and myself. It was their intention to reach Weilerskloof to breakfast, but we could get no farther than Mr. Schmitt's^ on the north- east ascent of the hill. There a heavy shower kept us prisoners for some time, when we proceeded, in hopes of better weather. The air was clear, and, as we walk- ed up the klqof, between the Lion's head and Table- 348 JOURNAL OF A Mountain, we had a good view of the town and bay. The summits of the mountains were enveloped in clouds. Amends, however, was made by the coolness of the air, which made walking pleasant On reaching the top of the kloof, an extensive prospect rewards the traveller, and the range of rocks and precipices, forming the south- west side of Table-Mountain, with the promontories of Hout-bay, have a grand appearance. Turning to the light, round the Lion's head, we arrived at a villa, be- longing to Mr. Horak. This place, given to him by the Earl of Caledon, has been greatly improved, by clothing the steep ascent with plantations of Witteboom and other trees. The gardens surround the circular mansion in concentric circles. Behind the house, stone steps lead to a picturesque group of rocks. Here, under the shade of various trees, planted on every practicable shelf, and between the masses of stone, a cool retreat is afforded on a hot summer's day. After some rest, and pleasant conversation with the owner, we continued our walk, on a good road, to the villa of Mr. Beck. Rocks of singular shape hover over the dwelhng. The gardens, which in terraces slope down towards the sea, are well stocked with a variety of flowers. By a continuation of the road, dug into the steep declivity of the mountain, we reached the villa of Dr. Lieschlng and Mr. Ziegler to dinner. This is a romantic spot, with a great variety of gar- den-ground, laid out in terraces, down a very rugged kloof, and containing a large collection of scarce plants and flowering shrubs. At the bottom of these grounds, the rocks form a grotto, in which is a cold bath. Walk- ing alone on the heath, I found some singular groups of large stones, with the Lion's head above them, in profile, resembling a cupola, and to the south, an exten- sive view of the coast beyond Camp-bay and Hout-bay, of which I endeavoured to make a sketch. After din- ner we returned to Capetown, in the doctor's barouche and four. Ii5th. I went to the Government-house, where I found Captain Forbes, who assured me, that he meant to set sail on the morning of the 16th. Having obtained ad- VISI,T TO SOUTH AFRICA. 349 mission to the Governor, I had a final, and very satisfac- tory conversation with his Excellency, on some points of importance to the Mission, and thus closed the busi- ness committed to me by the Directors of the Missionary concerns of our Church, with thankfulness to God, to whom alone I ascribe all my undeserved success. I dined to-day with Mr. Wilberforce Bird, and met Dr. Hussey and a captain of artillery. Mrs. Bird made many inquiries concerning Mr. Wilberforce and his fami- ly, and I was delighted to hear that excellent man made the subject of conversation and just adniiration. At nine o'clock, the company went to a ball at the Government- house. I returned home to my lodgings at Mrs. Di- sandt's. 16th. This being my last day at Capetown, I spent the morning in taking leave of my friends, Mr. Hancke, the Rev. Mr. Hesse, Mr. Poleman, and their families. While I live, I shall retain the most grateful sense of their kindness towards me. Meeting Captain Forbes, he desired me to be ready at four o'clock, as he then expected the Governor to bring his son on board, and should immediately set sail. After dinner, therefore, having taken a last farewell of my kind hostess, Mrs. Disandt, her family, and son-in- law, Mr. Edward Grant, whose presence has added much to the pleasure and comfort I always enjoyed in that house, I was accompanied to the pier by Mr. Hancke, Mr. Daniel Disandt, and Mr. Bestaendig. There 1 bid adieu to the former, with sentiments of the sincerest affection and gratitude for the essential and disinterested services he has rendered me, during the whole of my abode in the colony. The two latter gentlemen gave me the pleasure of their company, till we reached the ship. Stephen, a Hottentot from Groenekloof, by whom I had yesterday received letters, was on the pier, and saw me enter the boat, according to orders received. When 1 arrived on board, 1 found every thing pre- pared to receive the Governor. The ship was dressed out with an awning and flags, and the table in the cabin covered with a profusion of viands. The first lieu- tenant being confined by a hurt, received some days ago. 350 JOURNAL OF A the second lieutenant had the command. Captain Forbes' was on shore, and it was so settled, that if his gig re- turned without him, then the Governor would not come on board that afternoon. Bj some mistake the gig was reported to be coming off empty, and the lieutenant or- dered the flags and awnings to be taken down. This was instantly done, when the gig was seen swiftly ap- proaching the ship, with the Governor, his son, Miss Somerset, and the Captain in it. There was now no time, either for replacing the flags, or for firing a salute, before they were all on board. His Excellency seemed pleased with the ship, and the arrangements made, and sat down to the cold collation. When they returned to shore, a salute of seventeen guns was fired, a company of artillery onboard performing that service. During the short conversation I had with his Excellency, he once more assured me of his favourable disposition towards the Mission; and added, that he still hoped that I should land in England before the passengers in the Brilliant. His prediction proved true. The wind having turned right against us, and blowing fresh, the Captain resolved not to work against it so late in the evening, and returned with the Governor. I would not go again on shore, but spent the evening in writing. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 351 CHAPTER XXIV. Departure from Table-bay. View of the coast and moun^ tains. Reflections. Contents of the Zebra. General Bo^ naparte^s part of the cargo. Officers. Convenience of a private cabin. Letter to the Rev. Mr. Hesse^ respecting the Church of the United Brethren. First appearance of St. Helena. Its rocky coasts. Visited by Captain Wallis of the Podargus sloop. Landing. James-town described. Sir Thomas Reade. Invitation to Plantation-house. Ladder-hill. High-knole. Volcanic appearances. Beau- ty of the interior. Sir Hudson Lowe^ Governor of St. Helena. Mr. Brook. Morning-walk through the Go- vernor'^s grounds. October 17th. About eight o'clock, Captain Forbes came on board with Mr. Somerset, Captain Cloete, and Major Blake. The two officers soon returned to shore. Every thing being prepared, we immediately set sail, and beat out of the harbour, the wind being right against us. The sky looked wild. 1 stood on deck, engaged with various contemplations, but having so often, in the course of this narrative, ex- pressed my feelings, they may be guessed at without the necessity of a tedious recapitulation. Though the hea- vens were beclouded, the air w^as clear, and the surround- ing objects presented themselves distinctly to view ; Capetown, with its immense back-ground of mountains, or rather huge cliffs, shelving off towards the south; and to the east, the beautiful outline of mountains from the Hangeklip to the Piquetberg, enclosing the Tigerberg, Kuhberg, Blauberg, and Groenekloof hills. On the lat- ter, my spirit seemed to hover with a mixture of pleasure and pain, and my prayers arose for a blessing on all, whom I have there left behind. My spirit then fled over the mountains of Hottentot's Holland into the sacred groves of Gnadenthal, and I felt a pang on reflecting, that, by being kept in constant suspense during the last two months, 1 have been prevented paying another visit to those who dwell under their shade. 352 JOURNAL OF A As we were a long time working out of the bay, I quietly enjoyed these reveries for some hours, till the more rest- less waves ofthe open sea began to affect me^ and feeling myself quite overpowered by a kind of giddiness, I was glad to reach ray private cabin, and take to my bed, out of which, after a restless night, I could hardly crawl into **the great cabin on the 1 8th, when I felt only half alive. Meanwhile the wind had turned in our favour, and we had made one hundred and twentj^-six miles by twelve o'clock, going at the rate of nine and ten knots an hour. I began already to com- fort myself with some faint hopes of our being not much behind the Brilliant, when she reached England. 19th. I had spent a miserable night; the breeze fresh- ened so much, that the rolling of the ship became very troublesome. A soldier, who had obtained a free passage? as Captain's servant, was particularly anxious to render me every assistance; and, during the whole voyage, considered himself as attached to me. He attended me every morning, and seemed even to watch my wishes, that I might never want any thing. His name was John M'Klosky. By twelve o'clock, we had made two hun- dred and twenty miles. Thankfulness for such swift pro- gress, made me quite satisfied with all the tumbling and railing we had to endure. The wind abated a little, but remained fair. 20th. The articles of war were read, and a general muster and inspection of the crew took place, as is usual on Sundays. 21st. Being restored to a tolerable state of health and spirits, I began to notice the contents of our ship, and the heterogeneous nature ofthe objects brought together. General Bonaparte's property filled great part of the deck, and as it has been insinuated that he was left in a starving condition, it may not be uninteresting to know, w^hat the Zebra alone added to his store, of which I took some account, a hundred bags of corn and oats, twelve bales of hay, ten casks of wine, six barrels of butter, and forty or fifty sheep, several of which died on the passage* Every man of war, sailing from the Cape, was charged with some articles, either of provision or manufacture, for this celebrated captive. But how are the mighty r VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 353 fallen ! Fallen indeed, in every sense, even in mind, so as not to be able to restrain a species of fretfulness, which leads him to encourage complaints, founded on falsehood. Bonaparte's goods were all marked with a Bp, by his own direction. Among other live stock on board, was a young jackal. This savage cub, a moment after he was brought on board, seeing an unfortunate cock walk- ing on deck, seized it by the neck, and sprang w^ith it overboard, supposing the green ocean to be a field. The boat being out, both were soon taken up, and the jackal saved. 22d. The wind continued strong and fair, and all were thankful for the progress we made. I shall ever remember with gratitude, the civility and kind attention of Captain Forbes and the officers of the Zebra. Many of them had seen much service, and fought nobly in their king and country's cause. Some had travelled to almost every part of the known world, and I could not fail to derive much entertainment and infor- mation from their occasional relations of remarkable events, which were always unaffi^cted and unassuming. A passenger, Captain Brabyn of the infantry, who had spent sixteen years in New South Wales, and was obliged to visit England, to settle some family affairs, gave me much interesting information both of that singular coun- try, and of my friend the Rev. Mr. Marsden. Thus I never felt time hang heavy on my bands. If I was not disposed to write or read, I always found such society and conversation on deck, as afforded me great grati- fication. My little cabin was my sanctuary, and the hurry and noise in the gun-room seldom, if ever, disturbed me in my meditations. Whatever is not within my reach or control, in things not quite consistent with religious propriety, I leave to Him, who judgeth righteously, not being answerable for what is not committed to me, or in my power to alter in the conduct of others. To reprove, in a spirit of Christian meekness and true charity, being more disposed to excuse and make allowances, than to find fault and judge severely, is certainly the duty of a true Christian, but the manner of doing it, with any 45 354 JOURNAL OF A hopes of success, is not the gift of every one who feels the obligation. But there was not an officer on board who would not take in good part, any remark made on subjects, on which we differed in sentiment or ex- pression. A small shelf had been put up in my cabin, which con- tained a few books. Every morning, when I awoke, the bull's eye giving me sufficient Hght, I read the Scripture- texts appointed for every day in our Church, with the two chapters from which they were taken, adding sometimes larger portions of the Scriptures, as I was led on by the importance of the subjects, and the great delight and comfort 1 enjoyed in this practice. Never did the Bible appear to me so precious a treasure, when read with prayer, and under the enlightening influence of the Spirit of God, by whose divine assistance, I was frequently led into a clearer understanding of many of the great truths contained in it, than I had ever before possessed. To enter largely upon the subject, would be here out of place, but I trust some abiding impressions have been made upon my soul, during my soUtary devotions in that narrow cell. Every day, two officers were invited by the Captain to dinner, and, according to the usual practice in a man of war, the Captain dined with the officers on Sundays, when Mr. Somerset and 1 were likewise invited. 25th. The wind becoming more moderate, the ship's motion permitted me to spend my time quietly in the cabin, preparing letters to send from St. Helena to the Cape. I began likewise to make a circumstantial report of all my proceedings at the Cape, for the Directors of our Missions. 26th. 1 wrote to my highly valued friend, the Rev. Mr. Hesse, at Capetown, having been led into a reca- pitulation of many subjects, which occurred in conversa- tion between us at his house. Part of my letter related to the Church to which I belong. Concessions are the best defence, where we are, or have formerly been, to blame, in expressions or proceedings founded on mista- ken notions. Such concessions have been repeatedly iriade, but in general to Uttle purpose; and we must be TISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 355 satisfied to hear the old, wretched, and contradictory ac- cusations, repeated in '' Accounts of all Religions, En- cyclopedias, Notes on Church History," and other com- pilations. Be it so, since it cannot be otherwise ex- pected; let us live them down, since we have not been able to write them down. To some, however, who wil- fully continue to deal in that species of slander against the Brethren, or other religious communities, the answer of a friend of mine, a nobleman in Saxony, to his brethren, the States of Upper Lusatia, assembled at the Diet at Bautzen, may be given, consistently with truth. With a view to irritate his feehngs, or, as the vulgar phrase is, to quiz him, they pretended to believe all the infamous stories, related by certain authors concerning the practi- ces of the Brethren at Herrnhut, representing them as a very profligate and licentious sect; and challenged him to deny them. '^ Pray, gentlemen," he replied, " do not assert, that you believe these things, for I know you all so well, that if you really did believe, that all manner of licentiousness might be practised at Herrnhut with im^ punity, there is not one of you, who would not long ago have requested to be received as a member of such a community." 27th. Evening-prayers were read in the cabin before dinner. While we were dining with the officers in the gun-room, the master came down with the good news, that 8t. Helena was in sight. The information was re- ceived with great coolness by the old mariners, and as we could not anchor there after sunset, we remained un- der an easy sail all night, standing offhand on. 28th. I was early on deck, expecting to find a huge peak rising out of the sea, as St. Helena is often repre- sented. I was surprised, therefore, to see a long, high, and, from that distance, smooth-looking land, exhibiting nothing striking or picturesque; but, as we approached, more of its peculiar features were visible, and its ap- pearance became interesting. No coast I have ever seen looks more desolate; and one may easily conceive the anguish of the ladies wlio accompanied Bonaparte to have been as great as described, when they beheld the black dismal precipices, without a blade of grass or 356 JOURNAL OF A bush upon them, among which they were perhaps to spend the remainder of their Hves. Several kloofs (to keep up the old favourite appellation) divide the masses of ragged rocks. They appear filled with a black mould, the crumbling fragments of decomposed volcanic sub- stances. We soon discovered the Podargus sloop of war, cruizing off the island, andj by signal, sailed towards her. Captain Wallis, her commander, came off in his boat, and paid a long visit to Captain Forbes. On a nearer approach, several curious peaks, rocks of fanciful shape, and caverns near the sea, attracted my attention. The general colour of the rocks is dark-gray, with fissures and veins of a brown-yellow tint. Batte- ries are placed on several eminences, forming a line of defence all round the accessible part of the island. As we sailed round the point, James-town burst upon our view, with a neat church, clean-looking houses, and a row of trees near the beach. Some groves of cocoa and other trees adorn the gardens. When we had come to an anchor, the officer of the guard came on board, with whom Mr. Somerset and Captain Forbes went on shore, to make arrangements. I preferred spending the day on board, wishing to write letters, and complete my journal. On their return, how- ever. Captain Forbes, who had procured permission for me to land, reported, that having seen the Governor, Sir Hudson Lowe, he had invited him to dinner at Plan- tation-house, his country-residence, and that I might, meanwhile, find amusement of various kinds on shore. I was thus persuaded to accompany him. The weather was so mild, that there was hardly any surf, which is sometimes very troublesome, even at the jetty. The landing-place lies under vast and almost f)erpendicular rocks. About three hundred yards to the eft, an abutment of the rock forms an arch, like that of a flying buttress. To the right, the road passes over a drawbridge, along the beach, to a battery of heavy guns, commanding the entrance of the harbour. To the left, storehouses and offices range behind an avenue of trees, VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 357 the stems of which are remarkably crooked and ill- grown. About the middle of this range of buildings, a gate ad- mits the traveller into the town, w^ithout any examina- tion, but he is required immediately to repair to the town-major's office, to sign his name, and declare his business. Our first visit was to Captain Stansfield, the senior naval officer, acting as commodore, in absence of the admiral. Sir Pultney Malcolm. I was received with great politeness by Captain Stans- field, and, as Sir Pultney had offered Captain Forbes a bed at his house, 1 was likewise provided with accommo- dations, as his companion. During his absence, I de- termined to spend the afternoon in examining the stones on the hills surrounding the town, being pretty sure, that I should find enough to amuse me for some hours, when the arrival of Sir Thomas Reade, the Adjutant-general, delivered me from the burden of my contrivances. When he heard the plan I had formed, he protested, that I should not quit my company, but accompany the captain and Mr. Somerset to Plantation-house to dinner. With the most obliging opposition to all my remonstrances, he fairly compelled me to join the cavalcade, and we set out with the Governor's adjutant, Lieutenant Pritchard, all well mounted. The road up Ladder-hill is a steep zigzag, and were there not a parapet of about three feet in height skirting it towards the declivity, the view downwards would be frightful. At the top of the hill, a battery commands both the road, and the gate leading to it from the plain above. The mass of rocks, and the innumerable frag- ments lying on the hill, bear evident marks of their having once been in a state of fusion. The traces of that dreadful eruption, by which this singular island was lifted up above the surface of the ocean, appear in all directions. To the right, on the waste above, we were made particularly attentive to a number of gullies, in parallel lines, resembling torrents of burning lava. An attempt has been made to plant a hedge of Indian fig, on each side of the road, but it docs not seem to thrive well. Leaving High-knole, a steep conical hill, to the left. 358 JOURNAL OF A with a fort and guard on the summit, the whole face of the country changes from a wilderness to a garden. The declivities of the hills are covered with short grass of the most lively green, and their summits with bushes and trees. On a plain below, the camp of the 66th regiment presented itself. It is called Francis-plain camp, and, as the military was just then on parade, the sound of mar- tial music greeted our ears, as we rode along the hill.. Plantation-house lies to the right, and is approached be- tween two handsome lodges, with a guard-house, signal- house, and flags. The road leads through a grove to the main entrance. The house is a spacious building, facing an opening towards the sea, and bounded by low hills, planted with a variety of trees and bushes. An extensive lawn and garden slope down the gentle de- clivity. On entering the drawing-room, we met a large compa- ny, chiefly officers of different regiments, now stationed in the island, waiting for the Governor. I confess I felt rather uncomfortable, not seeing Sir Thomas Reade arrive, to account for the appearance of a stranger among these miHtary men in full dress. But w^hen Sir Hudson entered the apartment, and Captain Forbes in- troduced me to him, his Excellency made me truly wel- come, assuring me, that he should have felt much hurt, if I had not accompanied my friends. To my astonishment, I found here a gentleman, with whom 1 had contracted some acquaintance in England, Mr. Brook, Secretary to the colony. Sir Thomas Reade having joined us, we sat down to dinner, twenty-one in number. The conversation was free, and conducted throughout with the most correct attention to propriety. Sir Hudson had the kindness to place me next to the Secretary, that we might renew our acquaintance. Lady Lowe had been confined about a month ago, and did not attend to-day. About nine o'clock the party broke up, and the moon shining bright, all the officers returned, either on foot or on horseback, to their stations in different parts of the island. Sir Hud- son desired us to make his house our home. 29th. I awoke at daybreak, and feeling no inclination VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 359 to waste my time in sleep, in a place so remarkable in itself, and rendered much more so by recent events, I instantly quitted my bed, and left the house before sun- rise, to form acquaintance with as much of the surround- ing country as the time before breakfast would permit. I first went to the pleasure-grounds. They are laid out in terraces, descending towards a valley, in which some cottages are inhabited by Chinese gardeners and labourers. A flower-garden, in the Dutch style, is pre- paring for Lady Lowe, who delights in curious plants. It is sheltered from the east wind, by a rock of a white gritty substance. My attention was for some time di- rected to an assemblage of stones, brought together for building. They were varieties of scoriae, some contain- ing crystals of shoerl and olivin, and, as 1 apprehend, magnetic iron, quite similar in appearance to many I have seen from the neighbourhood of iEtna and Vesu* vius. Some of the cavities were filled wnth a bright yel- low coating, but I found no zeolith in any of them. Pursuing my walk, under beautiful groves of trees of various descriptions, I arrived at the hill, which is cover- ed with a young plantation of firs and other evergreens. From the upper walk observing a black rock at some distance, I made towards it, and found it to consist of amorphous basaltes. While I was employed, without proper tools, in knocking off some specimens, the bark- ing of a dog at the door of a neighbouring house, brought out the proprietor, with whom I had some con*^ versation. Turning down a footpath to the bottom of the rock, I found a quarry, and in it a vein of a substance by the Germans called Steinmark, (stone-marrow,) but of so brittle a nature, that I could get but very small speci- mens. Two hours passed swiftly and pleasantly away, and when I returned to the house, I found the Governor in his library, and we soon met to breakfast. On Captain Forbes requesting, that his Excellency would furnish us with the means of visiting Longwood, he declared his intention of accompanying us thither himself, and, if pos- sible, obtaining for us a sight of General Bonaparte. 360 JOURNAL OF A CHAPTER XXV. The Governors gardens described. Excursion in company of his Excellency, by Sandy-bay^ to Lons^wood, High Peak. Diana^s Peak. The DeviVs Ptmch-bowL Ac- count of Longwood. General Bonaparte confined to his room by illness. Bertrand. Monthollon. Lieutenant Pritchard. Description of Sandy-bay and other parts of the island. Furze. Black-berries. Wild goats. Houses of English settlers. The Friar Rock and valley. Obser- vatio)is on General Bonaparte^ s conduct. Departure from St. Helena. When Captain Wallis of the Podargus came on board the Zebra, and inquiry was made about General Bona- parte, the captain seemed very unwilling to allow, that he was any longer an object of curiosity at St. Helena, though in England we were all so eager to hear and speak about him. But on landing we found, that his words and actions formed a considerable part of the con- versation of all classes. Captain Wallis was first lieute- nant to Captain Wright, whose history is well known ; and though Bonaparte denies knowing any thing about the torture he is said to have suffered before his death, yet his great wrath at the appointment of Captain Wallis to this station, which, he says, w^as purposely done to mortify him, shows no very clear conscience. In Captain Wallis he cannot expect to have a sincere friend, unless he conceives him to be a Christian of such consummate piety, that he can forgive and forget all the cruel and insulting treatment which he himself experienced, when taken prisoner with Captain Wright. Lord Charles Somerset had expressed his wish to Sir Hudson Lowe, that, if it were possible, his son might have, if not an interview with, yet an opportunity of seeing General Bonaparte. But unfortunately for us, he was just now not only highly displeased with the Gover- nor and the English in general, on account of some ne- cessary restrictions put upon him, but truly ill with a swelling of the gums, ^d a breaking out in the lower VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 361 art of his face, which had confined him to his room for several dajs. Before we set out, Sir Hudson proposed a walk through his own grounds, part of which I had previously seen. His Excellency pointed out many foreign trees, growing here in great perfection, among which, some have not yet been described by botanists. The Chinese yew; the cofFee-tree; cinnamon and clove-bushes; the Norfolk-island-pine, a most beautiful species, growing in its native soil to the enormous height of from three hun- dred and fifty to three hundred and eighty feet ; the gum-tree ; cabbage-tree ; dog-tree, and goblekeer, bear- ing a small sky-blue flower, and others, deserve particu^ lar attention. Some oaks of vast magnitude and spread, form a delightful bower, under which, in that hot climate, one may enjoy the comfort of a shady retreat, inhaling an atmosphere, perfumed by the fragrance of a profusion of the sweetest plants and flowers. We noticed a pecu- liar kind of grass, called mat-grass, from its spreading most luxuriantly over the ground, in such thickness, that it forms a cover resembling thick matting, with long ten- drils like quick-grass. The Governor ordered a large sod, covered with it, to be put into a tub and sent on board, which I brought to England, The kitchen-gardens are large and well-watered by springs from the adjoining hills. The water is conveyed in narrow troughs, cut in a red lava, easily wrought, by being in a state of half-decomposition. By this means, the water is saved from being lost in the sand, or loose earth, as it passes along. Where this method is practi- cable, it should be adopted in South Africa, and in other places, for the purpose of irrigation. I am confident, that such a measure would greatly increase the quantity o( produce in many South African farms- We now set out for Longwood : the Governor, Colonel Sir Thomas Reade, Lieutenant Pritchard, Cap- tain Forbes, Mr. Somerset, and I, with a dragoon and groom. Sir Hudson proposed first to ride to Sandy-bay, one of the most romantic spots in the island. The views on all sides are singularly beautiful. Many fertile and well-wooded hills present themselves to the right, one 4G 362 JOURNAL OF A of which is called High Peak. Diana's Peak lies mor^* to the left, and is considered the highest point in the whole island. After crossing several hills and dales, by a zigzag road, their steepness never admitting of a strait line, we reached the ridge, overlooking the bay. The view of the valley is beyond description grand. Hills and rocks of most singular forms surround a deep hol- low, within which rises a woody hill with two peaks, one ascending considerably above the other. Between them, surrounded by gardens and shrubberies, lies the elegant villa of Mr. Doveton. He was born in this island, and is one of the members of council. Behind the house, seen, from the place where we stood, between the two peaks, rises a huge rock, like a sugar-loaf, called Lot. In the back-ground, is a range of hills, truly vol- canic in their appearance, intersected by numerous glens and gullies, of almost every colour, but chiefly violet, with tinges of yellow, red, dark-brown, and a greenish* gray ; the summit of the range is crowned with peaks of brown and black rocks, rising in succession. On its most elevated part, a rock, considerably higher than the rest, and leaning towards the right, has the odd name of Lot's wife ; the lower row of rocks, of different shapes and sizes, are called Lot's children. The whole land- scape is the most strange combination of objects imagina- ble, and Sir Hudson, perceiving that I wished to make 3. sketch of it, proposed that I should make it the business of to-morrow, as our time to-day was too short. Leaving therefore this enchanting spot, we turned to- wards Longwood, which, after a ride of a few miles, presents itself over a deep, barren glen, called the ^' Devil's Punch-bowl." General Bonaparte's premises appear, at first sight, to be placed near its rim. After rounding the edge of the Punch-bowl, we reached the outer gate and guard-house. Sir Hudson pointed out tons the situation of Longwood, as pecuHarly calcula- ted to prevent unobserved escape. The grounds, which occupy a space of about twelve miles in circumference, lie upon a kind of inland peninsula, the only practicable access to which, is between the Devil's Punch-bowl, and a deep glen to the right, descending towards the sea, VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 363 or between the flag-staff hill, and the other end of the Punch-bowl. Both these roads are sufficiently defend- ed by troops. As far as the guard-house, and within the twelve miles. General Bonaparte may ride, and amuse himself as he pleases ; but if he wishes to exceed those limits, an officer must accompany him. He finds this ex- tremely unpleasant, and requested the officer to dress like a common gentleman, which, however, being on du- ty, the latter was obliged to refuse. After entering the gate, we rode up to another en*' closure, where Sir Hudson desired us to wait, till he had obtained information respecting the General's actual situation. The interior of the premises is well stocked w^ith ornamental and other trees, forming a pleasant shrubbery, the rest of the domain being principally covered with gum trees standing singly. In a short time, Sir Hudson returned from the house, with an ac- count, that General Bonaparte was very ill with a swell* ed face and gums, and could not leave his room. This answer we had expected, and contented ourselves with riding about the park, if I may so call it, sind obtaining a good idea of the situation of the dwelling of this re- markable man. He and his friends complain of it, but I can only declare, that in the whole island of St. Helena I have not seen a spot, more convenient and airy, and where there is so much opportunity for taking a ride in a carriage or on horseback, without interruption. The park is even and grassy, and General Bonaparte fre- quently rides out in a cabriolet and six, generally in full gallop. In the shrubbery, near the house, stands a large marquee, in which he commonly breakfasts, and spends a good deal of time. Bertrand has a separate house, a little lower down the declivity, at a small distance from his master's. We saw him and Monthollon, with their ladies, walking in the park. The mansion itself is rather an assemblage of buildings, than one whole house. The dining-room, with its viranda, is the principal feature, and has three large windows. Connected with it, are General Bonaparte's own apartments, the principal one turning its gable-end towards the entrance. Behind that, if I am correct, fol- 364 JOURNAL OF A low those of the Captain on guard, Las Casas, Gourgeon^ and Monthollon. The latter has four windows. They are all one story high, whitened, with gray roofs. To the north-east, is a remarkable rock, from its shape called the Barn, rising perpendicularly from the sea to a great height, black, rugged, and without any trees. Far- ther inland, lies a peaked hill, called the Flag-staflf. Towards the Barn descends a narrow vale, covered Avith gravel of decomposed volcanic matter, in some parts so red, that it furnishes the imagination with the idea of a burning torrent. Here and there are patches of blue, yellow, and violet, increasing the deception. We had no time to fatigue our horses by riding into it ; and on our return to the guard-house. Sir Hudson very obligingly directed his adjutant. Lieutenant Pritchard, to attend me to any place, from which I might wish to make a sketch of the house and premises. He then returned home. Captain Forbes and Sir Thomas Reade rode to James- town, and Mr. Somerset favoured me with his company. We Vv^ent round the north-east end of the Punch-bowl, through the camp of the 53d regiment, but finding no good situation for a view, turned back towards the oppo- site height. Not far from the gate, I dismounted, and got a good general view of the house, or houses. When we arrived at plantation-house, Lady Lowe had taken an airing in a close carriage, and was in the draw- ing-room, where we were introduced to her. Her Lady- ship likewise attended to-day at the head of her table. Some military and other gentlemen joined us at dinner. My neighbour was Colonel Lister, w^ho having been in the interior of South Africa, as commander of a corps of Hottentots, had visited Gnadenthal, and was interested in obtaining an account of the present state of the Mis- sion. The afternoon could not be but pleasantly spent in the company of men so well informed and intelligent. After they w^ere gone, I retired into my own room, and finished my memorandums. 30th. I rose early, and began my morning's walk by a scramble up the hill to the right, to obtain a general view of the house and premises ; then turning through the gates, went down the hill on the road to Long wood. VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 3G5 High-knole, with its fort, supported by steep, black, rug- ged rocks, only wants trees to make it appear a very picturesque object. Francis-plain camp lies in a very solitary situation. But I have seldom listened with more pleasure to military music, than this morning, though performed only by some fifes, and a smaller and larger drum. The composition, as well as the performance, were excellent. 1 returned through the gates, and, as- cending by the zigzag walks behind the house, to the churchyard adjoining the chapel of ease, a good view of a range of hills from the Governor's grounds to the Barn rock, rewarded my labours. At breakfast. Sir Hudson proposed, that Mr. Somerset should make another attempt at Longwood, by the good offices of Dr. O'Meara, to see General Bonaparte. I set out in company of Lieutenant Pritchard, for Sandy- bay, taking a different route from that of yesterday. We made halt at a guard-house and flag-staff, and having given our horses in charge of a lad, got over a wall, and obtained a fine view of the valley, but not equal to that from the other side, towards which, therefore, we bent our course. Here I attempted to take a very accurate view of this singular spot. From hence we made a circuit towards the western coast of the island, passing along a sharp ridge, with beautiful glens on each side, in which several gentlemen's houses and plantations are well contrasted with the rug- ged masses of rock in their neighbourhood, and the wild waste around them. Yet even this waste was glorious- ly decorated with bushes of most luxuriant growth, chiefly of furze, now in full bloom, and, both in the size and colour of its flowers, incomparably superior to that of Europe. Blackberry-bushes, likewise, which were first introduced as a rarity in a garden, have now become so plentiful, that they are considered as the worst of weeds, intruding themselves every where into gardens and plantations. The summits of some of the hills are crowned with groves of gum and cabbage-trees, but the havock made of the wood, with which this island was formerly clothed, has been such, that, comparatively, but little of it is left. Formerly every passing ship sent men 366 JOURNAL OF A on shore to cut as much as they wanted. Of course rto carfe^ was taken to prevent waste. The subsequent introduce tion of goats, which ran wild, and multiplied very fast, was most ruinous to the growth of young plants and sprouts. These creatures proved at last so great a nui- sance, that they were hunted, and almost destroyed. There are no quadrupeds here, which may be called abo- rigines. Rats and mice have been brought hither by ships. Of other creatures, except birds and reptiles, we have no account. Scorpions and centipedes are said to have always abounded. The houses of the English settlers in St. Helena, are very different in their appearance from those of the Dutch at the Cape- They are neat and cleanly, with lawns and plantations; and prove, that their possessors, whether richer or poorer, are directed by some good taste, and do not always first ask, whether what they build or plant will bring in money, or afford too much pleasure or convenience to a neighbour, without gain or reward to themselves. The views on the western shore are equally inte- resting, though not so wild. Roseberry hill, the villa of Colonel Smith, is charmingly situated. A singular rock, from its shape called the Friar, and giving name to a valley, presents itself between two huge masses of stone, about the north-west corner of the island. We had no time to approach nearer. The heat was to-day greater than we had experienced it for a long time*^ The Governor could not have given me a more agree- able companion than Lieutenant Pritchard, who made it his study to render my ride agreeable and instructive. After our return, I found his Excellency in the hbrary, busily engaged in preparing despatches to go by the Zebra. My view of the house and surrounding scenery happening to meet with Lady Lowe's approbation, I finished my sketch for her. Captain Forbes had re- turned from James-town, and Dr. O'Meara having sent word, that General Bonaparte was too ill to appear abroad, Mr. Somerset was disappointed. Mr. Brook, the Secretary, paid a short visit. We sat down to din- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA- 367 lier without any additional guests, and the afternoon was spent in lively conversation. Every account we heard of the disposition and conduct of General Bonaparte in this island, showed but little of that greatness of character, which he would affect, and his admirers represent as inherent in him. That which belongs to the natural construction of a man's mind will be discovered in every situation of hfe. Not only in prosperity, but in adversity, it will cleave to him, and generally influence his conduct. But in a day of ease and victory, it is much easier to support a pretence, and wear a mask, than in a state of affliction. While Gene- ral Bonaparte was dictating laws to every nation but England, and crowned heads were bowing before him, he could assume a character superior to his own, and af^ feet, in every thing, to rise higher than other men. It would be unjust to deny him the merit of having ex- hibited a degree of comprehension and skill in military affairs, which has perhaps seldom, if ever, been equalled among ancient or modern warriors. In civil arrange- ments, also, who will deny, that his plans were vast, and that he had the wisdom to search out and employ the best agents for the accomplishment of his designs ! Had these properties of his mind been accompanied and di- rected by what constitutes true greatness, by generosity, goodness of heart, a conscientious principle, and reli- gious attention to justice and truth in his dealings, he would indeed have deserved all the praise bestowed upon him, either by those who were dazzled by his meteoric splendour, or by men who, in our own country, set him up, more, I trust, to please their party, than to sound the trumpet, and further the designs of the most determined and illiberal enemy England ever had. But now we see, that in adversity, that species of greatness which he possessed will not support him. It cannot in- deed be supposed, that he should feel happy in his pre- sent situation, and I could not visit his present domain, without feeling pity for a man, fallen so low, and who, had his senses not forsaken him in that (to him) most evil hour, might yet, after all his defeats, by honestly yielding to necessity, ^nd signing the proposed treaty of 368 JOUKNAL OF A Chauraont, have been left in possession of more power and military glory, than any other Potentate in Eu- rope. But the old adage, ^^ Quern Deus vult perdere, prius dementat," was never more completely verified^ than in the case of this singular man. He was, no doubts an instrument in the hands of a just God, to chastise the nations for their apostacy, and laid aside, when his work M^as done. If any thing tends to lessen or destroy that compassion, which one must feel even for the greatest de- linquent, under the lash of well-merited punishment, it is that petulance and irritability, which he shows in his present situation, and which a mind truly great would know how to suppress. Ever grumbling, finding fault with every person and every thing about him, dissatisfied with his food, peevish- ly complaining of neglect, when circumstances alone perhaps produced some transient disappointment, and, if not the author, yet the promoter of the most unjust ac- cusations against Sir Hudson Lowe, the Governor, who, though he knows and does his duty to his Sovereign, in guarding the charge committed to him, has, in more than one instance, spared and befriended his prisoner ! Can such conduct proceed from what is called greatness of mind ! I will quote one instance of the effect of his dis- satisfaction about things of minor importance, which came to my knowledge from the best authority. A butcher at James-town, who used to deliver meat for his table, being at length wearied out with continual repetition of complaints, though he furnished the best meat he could procure, directed the following laconic epistle to the Governor: "Sir Hudson! May it please your Excellency, this same General Bonaparte is hard to please. I begs to be excused sarving him any long- er with meat." As he hates Sir Hudson Lowe, the latter does not un- necessarily trouble him with his presence, but delivers all notices to him by Sir Thomas Reade, whose polished manners, good-humoured disposition, and knowledge of the Italian language, which General Bonaparte is said to prefer to French in conversation, makes him a plea- sant messenger. Sir Thomas has therefore had more VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 369 opportunities of becoming acquainted with him, in the various affections of his mind, than most Englishmen with whom he has conversed. A proof of great meanness is this, that he will not give credit to the English for any great warlike action. He says, that by all the rules of war, he ought to have gained the battle of Waterloo, and that the Duke of Wellington ought, if he had been a good General, to have retreated, and not made his stand where he did. Yet at other times, feeling peculiarly indignant at the Prussians, he, of course, will not allow them to have had any share in the result of that action, but describes his defeat to the firmness of the English infantry alone, by which all his plans were disconcerted. It is not my intention to add to the numberless ac- counts given of this celebrated captive, who thinks that he has friends and defenders enough among the EngHsh nation. Not having seen and spoken with him myself, I can only repeat what has been said by others, and as to those communications, w^hich are made in the course of friendly and unguarded conversation, I am of opinion, that, without special permission, common civility requires, that they should not be published, lest, by any uninten- tional misstatement, uneasiness might be created in the minds of men, whose kindness and liberality deserve to be rewarded with the most scrupulous attention to their feelings. General Bonaparte once observed to a gentleman, at whose house he seemed to bear his lot with considerable composure, that so many extraordinary things had hap- pened to him in his life, which had happened to no other man, that he should not be surprised if, some time hence, the English Government were to recall him. 47 370 JOURNAL OF A CHAPTER XXVL Preparations to leave St. Helena, Rumours of a war be- tween England and Jilgiers. Exercises at great guns and small arms. Appearance of Ascension island. Singular colouring of its rocks and hills. Captain Rich of the Racoon sloop of war. Landing. Great mountain. VoU canic scoriae and cinders. Scanty supply of water. Lava. Obsidien. Spotted crabs. Cockscomb oysters. Broken shells. Beautiful moonlight view. Water-spout. Re- Viarks on reading the history of Greece and Rome. Strange noises on board. Character of my late Father. Conversations with Captain Forbes. Stormy weather. Accuracy of reckoning by the chronometer. Enter the Bvitish Channel. Arrival at Spithead. October 31. Captain Forbes, on his return from town, yesterday, informed us, that he should sail in the fore- noon, and we prepared to leave this hospitable mansion, which, but for the strong drawing felt towards home, I should have done with the most sensible regret. Deter- mined, however, to lose no time, I was ready for my IPorning's walk before sunrise, and having found a good road to the top of the hill above the cave, I once more treated myself with a general view of this lovely spot and the surrounding country; after which, I once more examined the heap of stones in the garden, and got some good specimens of volcanic scoriae. After breakfast. Captain Forbes rode to town, Mr. Somerset and I followed, and in about an hour. Sir Hudson and his retinue. We alighted at Sir Thomas Readers, and finding that we could not immediately go on board, Captain Forbes and Mr. Somerset rode up Rupert's hill, to pay a visit to Mr. Balcome. I intended to write one or two letters to be sent to the Cape, but the servant having locked the room at the Admiral's house, where I had deposited my writing apparatus, I took a walk a little way up Ladderhill, and back to the j^tty, intending to proceed along the rocks to the arch ViSiT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 371 I had observed on our landings but found it inaccessible bj land. On the Captain's return, we went with Sir Thomas to the castle, to take leave of the Governor. The castle IS an old building, possessing no beautj or pecuhar fea- ture. It lies to the left, on entering the gate from the jettj. Having expressed to his Excellency^ as well as to Sir Thomas and the other officers, the grateful sense we shall ever retain of that kind attention which we had so largely experienced, we entered the Captain's gig, and went on board. Sir Thomas took charge of our letters^ an opportunity soon offering for the Cape. But if the plan of obtaining provisions from the Portuguese settle- ments of Angola and Benguela, on the opposite coast of Africa, succeeds, the communication between St. Helena and the Cape will not be so frequent. The loss in live stock imported from the Cape, is found to be too great. We had a good and swift passage, and yet lost twenty of our sheep, and not long ago, out of thirty brought from the Cape for the use of the officers, nine-and-twenty died during the voyage. The weather was fine, the sea smooth, and the wind as fair as we could wish. We had been threatened with a repetition of a fit of sea-sickness, after spending three days on shore, but felt no symptoms of that unpleasant malady. St. Helena remained in sight all day, and for some hours we could see Longvvood through an opening behind the Barn-rock. In the evening, the moon shone bright, and we sat long on deck. Of our fellow passengers, only Ca^ptain Crawford and Lieutenant Keeling had been on shore. The former complained sadly of the expense he had been put to at a tavern. Lieutenant Keeling had been in camp with the fifty-third regiment, called with Dr. O'Meara on Ber- trand, and walked over the grounds at Longwood. November 1st. We had entirely lost sight of St. He- lena, and were gently gliding along towards the island of Ascension. Having got rid of General Bonaparte's goods, our decks were clear, and we had room to walk two abreast from the wheel to the ladder. Having been informed, that we were at war with the Algerines, our 372 JOURNAL OF A valiant tars conceived good hopes, that we should " have a brush'' with some of them. In the afternoon the Captain ordered a general exer- cise of great guns and small arms, without firing, 2d. A target being fixed at the end of the fore-top- sail-yard, the marines and artillery-men fired at it. A general exercise took place. The whole operation of calling the men to quarters, mustering at the guns, each officer taking his particular station, was put in practice ; firing with great guns; resisting boarders; extinguish- ing fire; falling down to avoid raking broadsides; jump- ing up to fire ; &c. The manoeuvres were directed by the captain, unexpectedly, as he thought fit, and the men seemed to go through their work with great spirit. The whole represented a naval engagement, and was to me a very entertaining exhibition. In the sequel, this exer- cise was frequently repeated. 4th. Every preparation was made, and I was informed^ that in case of an attack, in a few minutes we might be ready for the fight. For some days past, I had per- ceived a slight pain in my left leg, which to-day increased, with some swelling. I submitted it to the surgeon's in- spection, who pronounced it to be of not much conse- quence, and gave me a lotion, which I believe was of service, though the pain haunted me for some time. The clouds seemed to announce a change of weather, and the wind freshened; for which we were thankful. Some showers passed over us in the afternoon. 6th. At breakfast, the master announced land from the masthead, and in about an hour after, we could discern it from on deck. Running with a fine breeze, at the rate of eight knots an hour, we hoped to cast anchor at the island of Ascension early in the afternoon. Most of the officers on board saw this island for the first time. We expected to see a low, flat, uninteresting country, noted merely as a resort for turtles ; and were therefore agreeably disappointed, when, at a distance of forty miles, we beheld an outline, much more varied and picturesque than that of St. Helena, and the volcanic origin more perceptible. Sailing along the coast from the south-east, the whole island appeared dreary in the VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 373 extreme. The sandy beach was as white as snow,-with black rugged rocks interspersed. Behind it a horrid waste, withblackguUies between the hillocks. The latter differed in height, and seemed chiefly heaps of scoriae, of a coni- cal form, one set up above the other, and enclosing higher hills of a dark-brown colour. A high mountain rising in the centre of the island, showed three peaks. A black cloud rested upon it for some time, and is said generally to obscure the summit, but we were favoured with so clear a sky, that the cloud, though hovering above, sel- dom descended upon it. One headland after the other presented itself, as we ran down ; and no vessel being seen for some time, the Captain began to entertain doubts, respecting the situa- tion of the anchoring ground, as pointed out in Hos- burgh's Directory. At length, the masts of the Racoon sloop of war were discovered rising behind a promontory^ but more to the westward than expected. Various sig- nals were made and answered from a signal-house on one of the hills, by which the arrival of the Zebra was an- nounced to the Racoon. Some of the strata of the rocks along the coast are singular, both as to form and colour. They lie chiefly horizontally, or dipping a little towards the south, in some places in curved lines. The colours generally fol- low each other downwards, thus : blueish-black ; dark- brown; light-red; yellow; gray; earthy; and white, near the beach. All seem to consist of a rotten, crum- bling stone. Not a green spot is to be seen. The whole island is a huge mass of cinders and hardened lava. Large flights of the frigate-bird, and other sea-fowl, kept hovering about the ship. On doubling the point, we saw Captain Rich, of the Racoon, coming towards us in his boat. He was soon on board, and directed us where to cast anchor. We did not arrive at the anchoring-place till seven P. M. and, af- ter a late dinner. Captain Forbes accompanied Captain Rich on board the Racoon. 7th. Though I felt a considerable degree of pain in my left leg, and the surgeon advised my staying on board, yet in so extraordinary a situation, in view of one 374 JOURNAL OF A of the most remarkable islands in the Atlantic, encoura ged by the finest weather, with little wind and surf, and every convenience for landing, I hope I may be forgiven for disregarding the surgeon's advice; nor blamed as presumptuous, in venturing, at the risk of a Httle increase of pain, to visit a place of such an inviting character. Captain Forbes and Captain Crawford went to break- fast on board the Racoon, but the gig was ordered to attend Mr. Somerset and me. To land on the sandy beach, even when the surf is least violent, would be attended w'ith great danger. The only safe way is to back the boat into some cove be- tween rocks, and as the swell heaves its stern towards the rock, without touching, to leap on shore. On landing, some people showed us to Lieutenant Roberts's tent. This officer had the command on shore, in the absence of Captain Rich. The tents of the gar- rison are placed among heaps of volcanic matter, resem- bling cinder-heaps in the neighbourhood of London* Every hill, both near the coast and in the interior, con- sists of the same substance, chiefly of a deeper or lighter brow^n colowr. Some look yellow and violet. At a dis- tance, the brown tints change to a deep purple. On the great mountain, the colour is a blueish-gray, with green- ish spots, owing to the growth of a species of milk-bush, here called parsley, and considered poisonous. The white colour of some of the rocks seems to proceed from calcareous substances. We were informed by the officers, that there may be about twenty acres in the island fit for cultivation. They have made a garden on the great mountain, but they must fetch their supply of garden-stuff, turf for firing, and fresh water, from a distance of from seven to nine miles. No tree is to be seen throughout the whole island. Two small springs of fresh water are known, the nearest, seven miles from the tents. But it is rather a continual dropping from a rock, than a regular spring, and yields two tons in twenty-four hours. The second is at the garden near the summit of the great mountain, nine miles distant from the battery, and, in the same space of time, yields one hundred and forty gallons. As our water on ^^ VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 375 board sent forth a very unpleasant smell, and could not be used, the sweet water of this island was considered by us as a great luxury. The two naval Captains having joined us on shore, we took a walk with Lieutenant Roberts towards the spring, but the heat was so great, being 115 degrees Fahren- heit by one, and 122 by another thermometer, and the sand, or rather powdered cinders, so troublesome to the feet, that after forcing ourselves forward for about two miles, we were obliged to return. In all directions, nothing but the most barren and desolate region met our view. It appeared as if the tremendous eruption, by which this island has been raised from the depths of the ocean, had but lately ceased. When we had regained the coast, the Captains re- turned on board. Mr. Somerset walked with me to the battery and store-houses, and along the coast, exami- ning the rocks. They are a black lava, full of pores, cavities, and crevices. Innumerable spotted crabs crawl- ed about them, and many of the cavities were filled with cockscomb oyster-shells, which stuck so fast, that it was with difficulty I obtained one whole specimen. In some places, the rocks are covered with a vitreous matter, like glazing. Lieutenant Roberts presented me with several large lumps of obsidien, or volcanic glass, found in the interior. The sand on the beach consists chiefly, and I may al- most say wholly, of fragments of small shells, among which were several broken parts of beautiful varieties of a larger sort, but not one of them left whole. There are no animals on the island but wild goat?, and numberless rats, which proved very troublesome to our people. Lieutenant Roberts having showed us the officers' tents and mess-room, carried us on board the Zebra in his boat, where we found several of the officeis of the Racoon on a visit to those of our vessel. The establishment at Ascension, was made in conse- quence of General Bonaparte's confinement in St. Helena, and under an apprehension, that unless we took fornjal possession pf this isknd, some other power, or adventu- 376 JOURNAL OF A rer, might make it a stepping-stone to forward his es- cape. The sun shone in full splendour, and illumined the whole island. It is a beautiful object^ as far as outline and colouring are concerned. One would not imagine that nature's pencil could give such effect to so desolate a spot. I endeavoured to obtain an exact sketch of the whole coast, before which we lay, and as the cloud had entirely withdrawn from the great mountain, nothing w^as wanted to render it complete. The colours were inimitably beautiful, and as the sun began to decline, al- most every shade of red, brown, purple, lilac, blueish- gray, yellow, orange, black, and white, was produced, in one or other part of the landscape. About four o'clock, the two Captains, Mr. Somerset^ and I, went on board the Racoon to dinner. She is a very handsome ship, large for her class, rated at eighteen guns, but carrying twenty-six, with a roomy cabin, state-room, and quarter-galleries. A boat having been sent to some distance, to procure fish for Captain Forbes, we were detained on board till long after sunset, when Captain Rich accompanied us on board the Zebra, in his own boat. The anchor was now discovered to be foul, and it lasted a considerable time, before we w^ere disengaged, and could set sail. At length, the buoy-rope being cut, we launched forth. I had meanwhile enjoyed the pleasure of long contempla- ting one of the finest nocturnal views ever seen. The peaks of the great mountain were enveloped in black clouds, of threatening aspect, but appearing stationary. The full moon distinctly showed the whole outline of the island, illumining the edges of the many loose airy clouds, which, disengaging themselves from the grand mass, by degrees spread over the heavens. The Racoon in the fore-ground, with the play of the distant surf and of the nearer waves, enlightened by the moon's rays, add- ed greatly to the enchanting beauty of the scene. As the wind rose with the increase of clouds, we did not carry much sail during the night. 10th. Being Sunday, the Captain read prayers on deck. The service was conducted with the greatest or- VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 377 der and solemnity. Immediatelj after, a strange sail was announced, which proved to be a large merchant- man, coming from the eastward, and standing athwart our course. This is the first vessel we have seen at sea, since we left the Cape. 15th. Porpoises and albicores were frequently about the ship, and by the appearance of the clouds, calms and squalls were expected. A heavy shower overtook us about noon, and the sailors gained a good deal of fresh water for washing. 16th. A water-spout appeared in the south-west, the course of which we watched for some time, but it passed a great way astern of us. The south-east trade-wind had remained steady and fair, to this day, but after a violent shower at noon, it suddenly fell calm, and we be- gan to fear, that we had got into the region of calms and squalls. But in about an hour's time, a breeze sprung up from the north-east, which continued fair and strong. 21st. Some showers passed over us. Every prepara- tion was made for any unforeseen event, in reference to the war with the Algerines. Blue lights were got ready, and shot brought on deck. 22d. A merchant ship hove in sight, and a square- rigged vessel was seen to windward. Boxes of case and grape-shot were brought on deck. About noon, a sea- man fell from the fore-top, and bruised his head exceed- ingly. The loss of his services was much regretted, as he was a remarkably clever and active man, and captaiu of the top. 23d. Captain Forbes and I have been lately, at our leisure, reading Goldsmith's compendium of the histories of Greece and Rome, which Mr. Somerset had brought with him. I cannot devest myself of the party feelings I had, w^hen a boy at school. 1 then took a dislike to the character of the Romans, and always wished success to their enemies, more especially to Hannibal. Goldsmith's great admiration of them therefore did not accord with my sentiments. But the history of Rome is pecuharly in- structive to an Englishman, and he may thereby learn, what real enemies of the happiness of m:if)kind nil do^ 48 378 JOURNAL OF A tnagogues have ever been, however plausible their pre-^ tences. 25th. This morning, about four o'clock, the sky being covered with dark clouds, and the moon set, a ship coming from the eastward, approached us within two cable-lengths. She hoisted lights, but the night was so dark, that she was not immediately perceived by the men on the look-out. By God's providence, she did not run foul of us, which, as she was coming in full sail, and right before the wind, might have proved a serious injury to both vessels. The wind freshened towards evening, and w^e ran at the rate of from eight and a half to ten knots an hour. 26th. In sleepless nights, I was both disturbed and amused by the various noises on board a ship of war. First, the sentinel before our door cried. Log-time ! the officer of the watch on deck : Heave the log ! Hold the reel ! Shortly after: Strike the bell ! The Zebra's bell, however, being broken when she went on shore in Simon's bay, it sounded like an old tin kettle, till the broken piece fell out, by which its tone was improved. This lasted about a fortnight, when by some means it got another crack, and lost its voice entirely. As make- shifts are very common among sailors, they found, on trial, that striking with the hammer on the flook of the anchor, answered the purpose as well, and that was now our belL It is struck every half hour, but not in imitation of a clock. The day is divided into six parts. At twelve at noon, it strikes eight times, or eight bells, as the phrase is, two and two strokes distinct, „.„.„.„. at half after twelve, one stroke ; at one, two strokes ; at half-past one, three; and so on till four o'clock; when, of course, the eight strokes return. Then, beginning with one at half past eight o'clock, they are again com- plete at twelve. If the officer says to the Captain, it is twelve or six o'clock, the answer is, " make it so." When the King was sailing in a frigate at Weymouth, hearing the commander use that expression, he observed : ^^ You, Sir, have more power than I have ; I cannot make it what time / please." After the bell has struck, the sailors placed as watch on the shrouds, and forecastle, cry out, VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 379 as loud as they can, lest they should be suspected of sleeping: Larboard quarter; Starboard quarter ; Lar- board bow. In the morning, there is pumping, scrub- bing, trampling overhead, and the noise increases. 27th. The wind was variable with short calms, and much lightning. 29th. It may seem impertinent, that I again introduce a memorial of my late father on this anniversary of his death, having already in my account of the same day, spent at sea, on my voyage to the Cape, expressed my feelings on that subject; but as I wrote this journal for the perusal of my children, I could not help adding a few lines in reference to it; and now, on revision, can- not resolve to omit them, requesting the indulgence of such, to whom they may appear obtrusive. I have seen and known some persons, who possessed one or other quality of my father's mind and heart, in an equal, and, perhaps, superior degree; but never any man, in whom so many excellent and useful qualifications were combined. In his conversation with those, over whom the situation he held in our Church had placed him, he understood the rare art of gaining their esteem and respect, and even securing perfect submission to his superior judgment, without ever, in the least degree, appealing to his station or authority ! He was open and communicative, heard patiently the opinions of others, though differing from his own; received their instruc- tions, when needed, and felt no hesitation in confessing, that he had been guided by the judgment of an inferior in situation and ability. He was the friend of all, and from the lowest to the highest, all felt at ease in his com- pany. The lowest placed confidence in his sincerity, as addressing a man, attentive to and interested in his concerns, and ever willing to advise and assist. Again, I might quote many instances, in which even the King's ministers treated him with marked regard and attention, honouring the uprightness of his heart, and the nobleness of his spirit. In conversing with inferiors, he had no- thing of that affectation of condescension, which gene- rally proves a cobweb too thin to hide the pride lurking beneath; and before men in power, his courteonsnesf5 380 JOURNAL OF A partook of nothing like fear or cringing. As a man of strong feelings, he may have felt strong partialities; but he never suffered them to interfere with his judgment, nor did I ever hear him express dislike, much less re- sentment, against any individual, not even against a few, who treated him ill. Though strong in his declarations of abhorrence against vice, and especially against un- truth and insincerity, he never directed his displeasure against the sinner, but only against the sin. As a peace- maker, he possessed an extraordinary talent, and it was ever his heart's delight, to bring about reconciliation and good-will. God's blessing attended his labours of love, and what seemed incurable hatred was often changed into perfect friendship, through his mediation. In disinterested devotedness to the cause to which he had dedicated his talents and his life, he set a noble ex- ample to all in public stations of every description. He never sought worldly advantage, either for himself or his family, in any thing he undertook. But for the tempo-* ral as well as spiritual welfare of others, he was at all times ready to use his influence and best exertions. In native eloquence, improved by study, we have never seen his equal in our Church, and those who have heard him in the pulpit, will grant, that his pre-eminence over most preachers in his day, was great. His language flowed with such ease, that, even when he raised his audience to the highest enjoyment of the most sublime and rapturous subjects, it was perfectly intelligible to all classes, without ever descending into what might be con- sidered too colloquial or vulgar. His manner was al- ways luminous, powerful, and full of fine imagery, ex- planatory of the subject before him. In setting forth the great doctrines of Christianity, of the depravity and helplessness of man, the necessity and all-sufliciency of the atonement made by Jesus Christ, justification by faith, and the hope of glory, he spoke with an energy and unction, which never failed to arrest attention, and touch the heart. Being possessed of a soul truly musical, while he en- couraged the use and practice of music in the church, by every means within his reach, he resisted all innovation, tending to destroy the grandeur and simplicity of the VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 381 true church-style, and his remarks on that part of the service were most judicious. In his whole deportment was seen, what a combina- tion of natural talent diligently improved, sweetness of temper, and the grace and love of God in the heart, may effect. There are now but few remaining, to whom I may appeal for the truth of this account of my dear and honoured father. He wished on his death-bed, that no- thing might be said of him, for he thought it wrong to give any praise to man, when the whole was due to God ; yet we may be allowed to thank God for sending such a servant, to benefit his cause on earth, and express our heartfelt regret, that he was so soon removed, for he had not yet completed his fifty-ninth year. The cause of his death was an excrescence in the vi- tals, of the nature of a common wen, which, had it ga- thered in any external part, according to the opinion of the surgeons, might have been removed without much, if any pain. May my end, whenever it pleases God to call me hence, be hke his, as full of peace and assurance of eter- nal bliss, through the merits of my Redeemer. 30th. We were to-day in the latitude of Corvo, one of the Azores, but too far to the westward to see it. The wind was rather high, and the sea turbulent. I finished reading Goldsmith's history of Greece. Both that, and his history of Rome, are excellent, luminous compendiums. They show what the boasted preten- sions of man are, without the influence of the Spirit of God. Can there be any thing more diabolical than the conduct of these people, once the most enlightened of mankind by the powers of human reason. December 1st. Advent-Sunday. I read with peculiar delight the portions of Scripture appointed in our Church for this day, and was in spirit among those, who witli heart and voice sing "Hosanna, blessed is He that cometh in the name of the Lord." In a conversation with the Captain this evening, I was led to express my thoughts concerning the present mode of education in the world, which, in gei^eral, rather forbids, than •' suf- 382 JOURNAL OF A fers little children to come to Jesus,'' though not from the same generous, but mistaken views, which made His disciples consider them troublesome. But it is said, that if men are to live in the world, and to be a match for it, they ought to be made acquainted with its ways in early youth, and not brought up too religiously. I sometimes thought, that by the care; taken to preserve me from the ways, lusts, fashions, and ensnaring pleasures of the world, I had missed much ; but from what 1 have seen, since it has been in my power to know more of the world, I find I have no cause to regret my very late ac- quaintance with it, having still to learn^ where the great happiness, so much boasted of, is to be found ; and as I wish myself and every human creature to be completely happy, I pray, that we all may find the true and only source of that joy, which, as our Saviour expressed it, " no man can take from us," and which, through Him, may become the portion of us all. 2d. The sea was restless, and the ship pitched heavi- ly. In the afternoon, the breeze freshened, and the spray kept flying over the bulwarks, and on to the quarter deck. The sky looked wild, and we took in sail. 3d. I did not feel well, but went on deck to behold the sea, which appeared rather furious. Mighty waves assailed us on all sides, and every precaution was taken. During the forenoon, we sprung our main-yard, and ran under close-reefed top-sails. The wind getting more aft, the ship began to roll very much. The hatch-ways w^ere closed, and tarpawlings put upon the sky-light of the cabin ; but we were proceeding fast in the right track. The clouds in the west had long looked very black, and now rose with lightning and thunder, and a heavy squall. All hands were turned up, as a severe gale was expected. I retreated into my cabin. Both this and the following day, the weather was very boiste- rous and rainy. 5th. Though " well roused about,'' as the sailors call it, and not able to sleep, I was truly thankful for the swiftness with which we were approaching our dear na- tive country. Surely the mercies of the Lord have been every morning new. Not a blast of contrary wind have VISIT TO SOUTH AFRICA. 383 we had since we left the Cape, and this morning, just when we wanted it, the wind shifted to the north-west, and we ran at the rate of twelve knots for several hours. All hands were employed in getting out a spar to fish the main-yard. In these operations, the artillery-men are of great service, and work with cheerfulness. The waves rose higher to-day than I had ever yet seen, and it was a great amusement to me to watch the ship's pas- sage over them. 6th. We had proceeded swiftly and steadily during the night. About eight in the morning, it began to blow what even the sailors called a hard gale. But the sky was perfectly clear and the sun shone upon the boisterous ocean with great brightness. The waves seemed to roll in upon us like mountains. The royal masts were struck, and we ran under close-reefed top-sails and a storm stay- sail. During the forenoon, the Captain was making great exertions to get up the main-yard, which had been fished yesterday, but was obliged to give it up till four in the afternoon, when the wind abated a little. 7th. We were now in the chops of the Channel ; and in the afternoon, on sounding, found ourselves in ninety- eight fathoms water. Our calculations by the chronome- ter have been so correct, that we were exactly where it was supposed we should be. We sounded every four hours during the night. 8th. The morning set in with a heavy squall, but in our favour. During the forenoon, showers passed over us. I was amused with observing the sand cleaving to the bottom of the lead. The most minute shells, among which were star-fish not above a quarter of an inch in diameter, were brought up from a depth of from eighty to sixty fathoms. About two o'clock, a fishing-boat came to us. The man brought two newspapers. We were sorry to hear of some serious disturbances in several parts of England. We learned also, that a severe engagement had taken place between the English and Algerines, in which our countrymen were victorious; and that, during a dread- ful storm, about three weeks ago, many ships had been wrecked in the Channel. 384 JOURNAL, &C. 9th. In the afternoon, we saw the Lizard point, and entered the Channel with a gentle breeze at north-west. About nydnight, the wind changed to south-west, increas- ing in strength. We ran at the rate of nine and ten knots an hour, and though it began to grow hazy with drizzHng rain, discovered the different promontories, as we passed swiftly along. About four miles to the west- ward of the Isle of Wight, a pilot-boat hove in sight, and a gun being fired to bring her to, the pilot soon came on board. All crowded around him to hear the news. He gave an account of Lord Exmouth's victory, and the sub- mission of the Dey of Algiers. With a fine steady breeze, we crossed the bridge between the Needles and the main land, over which the sea plays in a terrible manner, and reached the anchorage at Cowes about six in the evening. During the night it blew hard, and we were thankful to be in safety. 10th. Early, we weighed, and about eight A. M. an- chored at Spithead. The Captain, Mr. Somerset, and I, went on shore in the gig, and landed at the Sally Port. Mr. Somerset set out from Portsmouth for the Duke of Beaufort's seat, and I took leave of Captain Forbes with sentiments of the greatest esteem and gratitude, nor shall I ever forget the kindness experienced from him during the whole voyage. The evening after our arrival, it blew a terrible gale. While I heard the tempest roaring without, I cannot express in words my thankfulness to God for the extraordinary success, which attended us du- ring the voyage, and for having been brought in safety to shore, even at a season, when storms are most dreaded. 13th. I left Portsmouth, and in the evening arrived safe in London, where I found my young friend Adolph, who had but that day landed from the Brilliant. Thus Lord Charles Somerset's hopes were verified ; for, though I left the Cape a month and a day later than the Brilliant, I landed in England three days sooner than I should have done, had I sailed with that vessel. THE END. 385 LIST OF TREES, SHRUBS, AND PLANTS, Noticed in this Journal. WITTEBOOM — Leucadendron argenteum. Speckboom — Portulacaria afra, (or tree purslane.) Wageboom — Protea grandiflora. Geelhout — Podocarpus clongata. Stinkhout — Laurus hullata B. Melkhout — Sideroxylon inerme. Eysterhout — Olea undulata B. Dornbush — Acacia capensis, is the common sort. Kreupel-bosch — Leucospermum conocarpum, (the firewood grown under Table Mountain.) Roth-els — Cunonia capensis. Witt-els — Weinmannia trifoliata. Gomassi-hout — ^a plant of the order Contortas.) Taaibosch — a species of Rhus, of which genus several bear the name of Taaibosch. Camphor-wood — Laurus camphora, (is not a native of the Cape.) Oliven-hout — Olea similis B. (a large tree with long narrow leaves.) Rhinosteros-bosch — Stoebe rhinocerotis. Zuyker-bosch — Protea mellifera. Chinese Rose — Rosa semperflorens. Waxberry-bush — Myrica cordifolia. Poison-apple — Solanum sodomeum, (a prickly shrub.) Bosch-tau or Bavianstau — Cynanchum obtusifolium, (other plants are also called so.) Bamboo — Bambusa arundinacea. Spanish Riet — Arundo donax. Aloes, several sorts — Of the genus Aloe, nearly all the species are indigenous at the Cape. Agave Americana is found about Capetown. Fahlblar — A small species of Aloe, blueish leaf, scarlet flower. Farkblar — (pig-leaf,) Calla Ethiopica. Pisang — The sort growing wild in the Zuureveld, is Strelitzia reginae ; that which grows in Plettenberg-bay, is Strelitzia augusta. Indian Fig — Cactus opuntiae, used for fences. Hottentot Fig — Mesembryanthemum edule. Chandelier — Brunsvigia multiflora. Seven-years-flower — Gnaphahum eximium, with a leaf like woollen cloth. Several kinds. Riet Reed Rush — Restio. Various sorts are used for thatching. Palmite — Juncus serratus, of Thunberg. Papkull— Typha latifolia. Baviansblom — Is a name given to various species of Babiana's. 49 386 Hottentot food — A bulb with a long stalk. Moss — The long-hanging kind is a species of Usnea. Bukku — A medicinal plant of singular virtue. hi the Island of St, Helena, Mat-grass, Chinese Yew, Dog tree^ Cabbage tree, Gum tree, Coffee tree, Goblekeur, with a small blue floweif. Cinnamon, Cloves, Norfolk Island Pine. BEASTS. ELEPHANT— Elephas Africanus. Lion — Felis Leo. Tyger, not the East India, but a large panther. Leopard — Felis Leopardus. Wolf — Hyena Crocuta. Buffaloe — Bos caffer. Jackal — Canis mesomelas. Koodoo — Antilope strepsiceros. Gnoo — Antilope Gnu. Hartebeest — Antilope bubalis. Springbock — Antilope saltans. Buntebock — Antilope. Boschbock — Antilope sylvatica. Blaubock— Antilope leucophaga. This is a large animal, and very different from the little one of the Zuureveld. Dog. Wild-dog — Hyena Venatica. B. Rehbock — Antilope. Elland — Antilope Oreas. Cape-ox is a variety of Bos Taurus, Sheep — Capra Capensis. Aardfark, Earth-hog — Myrmecophaga capensis. Porcupine— -Hystrix cristata. Mole— The large sort is Myotalpha maritima. The smaller i- Myotalpha capensis. Zebra — Equus Zebra. Quagga — Equus Q,uagga. Steenbock — Antilope. Baboon — Cercopithecus ursinus. Monkey. BIRDS. Albatross — A species of Diomedea. Frigate-bird-^Pelecanus Aquilus of Linneus. 387 Cape-pigeon is probably a species of Sterna, a sea-bird. Hawk. Falcon. Spreuw— Starling. Wittegat Spreuw — Turdus morio of Linneus. Groene Spreuw — Turdus nitens. Yellow finch. Zuyker Vogel, (Sugar-bird,) a species of humming-bird. The different species of Zuyker Vogelen^ that have received names, are Certhia Caifra, the large, brown, long-tailed. ■ famosa. Green. violacea. > small, with yellow, red, and blue breasts ; a chalybea. \ common sort. Swallow, domestic. Do. wild — Hirundo capensis. Secretary-bird — Falco serpentarius of Linneus. Fiscal — Lanius coUaris. Green Cuckoo. Louri or Touraco — is the Cuculus Persa of Linneus. Cape-lark — Alanda capensis. Korhan — a species of Otis. Guinea-fowl, wild — Numida mitrata. Partridge — Perdix. Wild Peacock — a species of Otis. Penguin-^^Aptenodytes demersa. Turtle dove — Columba. Crow — Corvus. SERPENTS, &c. COBRA di capella, not crested. This is very different from the true Cobra di capella of India. Nachtschlange. Schaapstecher, unnamed species of the genus Coluber of Linneus-. Bergadder. Do. Puffadder. Do. Erdschlange, earth-serpent — a species of Anguis. Cuytges, in thatch, Lacerta Geitje, of Sparmann. Salamander. Chameleon — Trapsoetges. Chameleon. Tarantula — species of Aranea, (not the true tarantula of Europe.) Scorpion — Scorpio. Ants, large and small — Formica. Buschlouse, resembling the Acarus ricinus. Whale-louse. Lizards — Most of the lizards are at present unnamed. Crocodile, or Kayman — Lacerta riparia B. I N D E X. ABUE, Mr. at Mossel-bay, 135. Accidents, 130, 152, 164, 177. Adder, Berg-adder, Puff-adder. See Serpents, Addison's Spectator, 13. Ados Drift, on Sunday's river, 233. Address to Hottentots, 108, 279, 323. Akkerman, Mr. a farmer, 18 1, 240. Albatross, bird, 26. Albicore, fish, 18. Alexander, H. Esq. Colonial Secretary, 33,49,50,51, 101, 135,306. Algerines, war with England, 371, 383. Algoa-bay, 204. Aloes, 35, 44, 125. Decoction of, 136. Large, 189. Ants' nests, 57. Used as ovens, 315. In the ground, 301. Flying ants, 138. Large, 314. Appell, Philip, a Hottentot, account of, 273. Appetite, total want of, useful, 2. 21. Aris, Lebrecht, a Hottentot, 114. Case of, 119. Arniston, East Indiaman, lost off Cape Aguillas, account of, by Dr. Hassner, 76, 258. Ascension Island, described, 372. Ass, Van, Mr. 127. Assistants, 71. Attaquas-kloof, 251. Ausflucht Farm, 239. Austin, Mr. at Somerset, 225. Authors, German, sentimental, 17. Azores Islands, 381. BAAKENS, or boundary-stores, 110. Baboons, 54, 96^ 111, 174, 223, 252, 284. Baptism of children, 44. Of adults, 48, 81. Barbiers Kraal, 149. Barkhuis, Mr. 172. Mrs. J. 173, 248. Bartlett, Mr. of the Missionary Society in London, 111. Basaltes, St. Helena, 359. Batje, Peter, a Hottentot, account of, 264. Ba viands Kloof, 57, 61, 69, 82. B avian's Mountain, 57. B avian's Revier, in Graaf Reynet, 227. Baviau's Tau, or Bushrope, a creeper, 149. Beetles, black, 133. Belfry at Gnadenthal, 63. Bentinck, , Esq. 101. Bethelsdorp, visit to, 200. Described, 201. Bird, Colonel, Colonial Secretary, 34, 101, 320. Bird, Wilberforce, Esq. 349. Birthday, celebration of, 99. Blauberg, 39, 287. Bluebock antelope, 164, Bock Revier, 118, 263. Bonatz, J. Gottlieb, missionary, 45, 69, 82, 105. Leaves Gnadenthal, 112, 114. Adolph, his son, 326. Bonavista, Island, Cape de Verd, 15. Bonaparte, General, overthrow of his power. Stores for, 352, 363, 366. Boschberg, 205, 222. Described, 223. Boschlemmer knives, made at Gnaden- thal, 133, 239, 240. Botte Revier, farmer at, 55, 95. Boundary of Gnadenthal, 84, 1 10. Brak Revier, 138. Breede Revier, 121. Bricks, Hottentots' manner of making, 64, 341, 344. Bridge over the Palmite Revier, describ- ed, 284. Brilliant brig, engage a passage on board, 304, 328, 333. Bruntjes Floogte, Achter, 199. Buchenrode, Mr. Von, 206. Buck, Mr. a fellow-passenger, 2, 305. Bueffeljagds Revier, 125. 259. Buffaloes, 156, 210, 236, 262. Building of a new house at Gnadenthal^ 64. Of a new church at Groenc- kloof, 287, 314, 323. Buissini, P. Von, Esq. Landdrost of Zwellendam, 123. Bukku, a plant, described, 157, 267. Bullocks, Cape, 37. See Oxen. Buntebock, antelope, 259. Burial of Christian Hottentots described, 91. Bulla 1-giounds describcd| 43, 60. 390 INDEX. Burnt Kraal, 219. Butchers, Cape, 303, 3G8. Bush-cat described, 247. CAFFRARIA, view of, 221. Caffres, Christian, 67, 317, 318. Wild, devastation made by, 151. Cruelty of, 156. Prisoner, 205. Thieves, 220, 232. Cairns, Dr. 299. Caledon, Earl of, 43. Caledon, village and drosty, 74. Caledon Institute. See Zuurbrak. Chameleon described, 37, 321. Camera obscuraj use of, 72, 83. Campbell, Rev. Mr. 201. Candidates for baptism, 45, 70. Candidates for the Lord's Supper, 70. Capelle, Baron de, his arrival at the Cape, 102. Cape Downs, 103. Capetown, 30. Its inhabitants, 32. Buildings, 33. Last visit to, 345. De- parture from, 349. Captains, Hottentot, 43, 81. Cat, kills snakes, 208. Catholics, Roman, ^2. Caverns, 190. Chamtoos Revier, 82, 190. Wagen- drift, 239. Chandelier, a plant, described, 161. Chapel- servants, 71. Their annual meeting, 71. Children. See Schools. Baptism. Chinese gardens, St. Helena, 359. Christmas, 33. Church, Established, Calvinist, 30, 260. Lutheran, 33, 291, 306, 313, 347. Church at Gnadenthal, described, 62, 80. New, at Groenekloof, 287, 314, 323. Circuit, 77. Clemens, August, missionary, 11, 55, 78, 84. Cloete, Capt. Aide de Camp to the Go- vernor, 102. Cloete, , Esq. 36, 330. Cloete, Dirk, Esq. 96, 286. Commadocha, Military post, forsaken, 219. Communion, Holy, celebration of, 72, 271, 294, 317. Communicants, 70. Conference of Elders of the Unity, 41. Confirmation, previous to the Lord's Supper, 92. Constantia, vineyards, description of, 330. Conversations with Hottentots in the interior, 127, 131, 135, 167, 175, 181. About land, 278. CorO} manner of sowing, 306. Cradock, Sir John, Governor, 143. Croucher, Mr. overseer of the Groote Post, 313. Cruelty to animals reprobated, 28, 117, 302. Cruywagens-kraal, 44, 297, 342. Cuckoo, Green, 153. Cuyler, Colonel, landdrost of Uitenha- gen, 144, 198. DACHA, a poisonous herb, 324. Dambra, Hottentot tribe, 315,322, 325. Dashwood, , Esq. 305, 337. Delport, Mr. a farmer, 285. De Nyssen, , Esq. fiscal, 34. DeviPs-hill, 30, 101. Disandt, Mrs. 31, 101. See Capetown, 349. Discipline, church, instances of, 41, 112, 269, 272, 273. Dogs, not provided, 127. Thieving, 187, 206, 320. Dolldrums, a sailor's term, 10. Dorn Revier, Great, 249. Doxology, 48. Dragoons, English, civility of, 129, 248# Dress of Christian Hottentots, 66. Drift, a ford near the Riet valley, 328. Duckett, Mr. 335. Dundas, General, Governor, 129. Dunen, sand hills, described, 340. Duivelskop mountain, 163. Du Preez, Piet, 129, 130, 258. Cobus, 130, 257. Dutch, spoken at Gnadenthal, 288. Duyvenhoeks Revier, 129. EARTH-HOGS, 301. Easter, spent at the Boschberg, 221. Education. See Schools. Schoolmasters, 321. Elephants, 156, 209, 213, 234. Elephant-stones, 322, 335. Elland, antelope, 254. Ellandsfonteyn, 241. Engelbrecht, Mr. Cornelius, 230. English, Capture of Cape, favourable disposition of, 278. Taxation, 236, &c. Epiphany, festival of, 47. Eseljagd Revier, 248. Essen bosch farm, and encampment at^ 183,239. Exercises on board the Zebra, 372. Eysterhout wood, 37, 165, FAHLBLAR, a plant, 45. Farewell-address at Gnadenthal, 279. At Groenekloof, 323. Farms, 53, &c. Father, annual remembrance of his '-^ Oo ^ -^^ ^^^cidified using the Bookkeeper process, v^ ^K " %il\x\x^^' ^ ^ ^" "^V '^^^^''^''zirtg agent: Magnesium Oxide ,\ --^^ ^^N^^i^^"' '^ ^. \^ Treatment Date: June 2003 =^i:^. <^ PreservatlonTechnologies A WORLD LEADER IN PAPER PRESERVATIOf ,^>' -r. __ es - — ERVATION 1 1 1 Thomson Park Drive Cranberry Township. PA 16066 (724)779-2111 ./.< >- i^^s^S-^^ " 4 -7-, %> c^^^ .^>K/>^^ ^ \ a\ ;'^/^b_, .\^^ . \ 1 ^' y ::.!'' -^ -y O-^ \y '^OO^^ o> Xl r. /. "'■'^-^- ">°.-..,x'—\^^^",.-.-:v "• S^ \^ c^. V -. ,x^ A .A>'