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ELasy Lessons for 
 Lace MaKers £i £i 
 
 COPYRIGHTED 1901 
 
 Fancy Stitches Illustrated Showing 
 Clearly How to MaKe All Modern Laces 
 
 PUBLISHED FOR THE TRADE 
 
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MARIE ANTOINETTE AND DUCHESS LACE BRAID MATERIALS. 
 
 SPECIAL ATTENTION 
 
 is called to Stitches for Silk Lace 
 which should be made with 
 BELDING^S "HAND-SEWING^\ , 
 Sizes O, A, B or C, as pref|exred^^^ ;,^,,, 
 
 JUL. 15 1901 
 
 CoPVaiQHT ENTRY 
 
 CLASS XXc Ni» 
 
 ARABIAN BRAID 
 
 made up with the lace stitches done 
 in silk is the latest lace work. For 
 this braid use BELDING BROS. 
 & CO/S CROCHET SILK in 
 ecru or cream. 
 
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 "*J£" 
 
 
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 -27^1 
 
 Copyright Offica. 
 

 ^ Easy Lessons for Lace Makers "^ 
 
 CCOPVRIGHTEO 1 90 I ) 
 
 LACE. 
 
 The making of lace for household and 
 dress purposes seems to have become a set- 
 tled occupation. There is no such thing 
 as lace "going out of style," like precious 
 stones lace has ever had a value both intrin- 
 sic and sentimental. In families of birth 
 and breeding the old lace is handed down 
 from generation to generation for hundreds 
 of years. Hence in these modern days the 
 lace maker should give thought for the 
 future and each piece of lace made should 
 be so neatly done as to be worthy of passing 
 on as an heirloom. 
 
 The making of modern lace offers no dif- 
 ficulties to a neat and deft needle-woman, 
 neatness of work is absolutely indispens- 
 able. 
 
 MATERIALS. 
 
 The first consideration is suitable mater- 
 ials. These are threads and braids, and 
 they should be the best obtainable, both 
 linen, unless silk lace is considered, when 
 of course silk braid and thread will be 
 used. 
 
 The name of different braids is not of 
 much importance as the method of work 
 is the same, no matter what pattern or 
 style of braid is used, but I will mention 
 here the braids most used. 
 
 1st. Point braid very narrow and fine 
 for handkerchiefs, collars, dress trimmings, 
 tumbler doyleys, etc. There are various 
 qualities of point, ranging in price from 
 3 to 5 cents per yard. The latter price is 
 for the finest and best. The thread for 
 point lace should be fine, not coarser than 
 No. 400, and for fine work Nos. 500, 600, 
 800,' 900, 1,000 or 1,500 can be used. 
 
 2nd. Duchess hraid narrow and wide is 
 used for all purposes where a light delicate 
 
 lace is desired. It is sheer, has a little pat- 
 tern in it, comes in wide and medium 
 widths. Price 5, 6 to 8 cents per yard 
 according to width and fineness, used also 
 for dress trimmings. Flemish braids are a 
 trifle heavier. Threads Nos. 100 to 250 can 
 be used with above braids. 
 
 Battenberg braids come in various widths 
 known as size 4, 6, 8 or 10, ten being the 
 widest and No. 4 the narrowest, this latter 
 number is just about the width of point 
 lace but much heavier. Thread Nos. from 
 80 to 200 can be used with these braids. 
 
 Arabian Braid is a coarse heavy braid 
 with a raised cord on one edge and a draw 
 string in the other to save overcasting. This 
 braid is very popular, and is used for dress 
 trimmings, jackets, collars, lunch cloths 
 and center pieces. A coarse thread not 
 finer than 80 should be used with this braid. 
 All braids come in white and ecru. The 
 Arabian braids also can be had in the 
 natural linen color. 
 
 The Marie Antoinette braids are to ap- 
 plique on net. 
 
 All these braids with cords, etc., are illus- 
 trated in this leaflet, so you will be able 
 to recognize them. 
 
 The thread is an important item and 
 should be fine and smooth. "Petit Mou- 
 lin" a French linen thread is excellent. On 
 silk you can use crochet silk. Tailor 's Hand 
 Sewings or Honiton silk as perferred. 
 
 LACE MAKING. 
 
 We now come to the method of making 
 lace. 
 
 First a design stamped on cambric or 
 silesia is necessary, baste the design on a 
 piece of common table oilcloth. This "back- 
 ing" is absolutely necessary to secure 
 
EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 smooth work and speed, the latter very- 
 important. The oilcloth acts as a 
 sort of frame to hold the work in 
 place and further it prevents the 
 work shrinldng in the hand which is sure 
 to occur unless it is employed. The 
 same piece can be used many times. Stiff 
 paper can be substituted, but is not nearly 
 so good. After the design is basted on the 
 oilcloth you are ready for the next step, 
 namely, basting on the braid, and this is 
 indeed the most important part of the work, 
 for unless this is well done the lace when 
 finished will look very badly done. 
 
 Braids with the exception of some fancy 
 braids and the Arabian braids are alike 
 on both sides. All professional lace makers 
 make lace wrong side out, this is not obli- 
 gatory but it is considered the proper way 
 and it certainly has many points in its 
 favor. First it keeps the right side of the 
 lace clean, second all rough places, joinings, 
 etc., can be better cared for from the wrong 
 side, and perhaps as important as all the 
 other points combined, there is a gain of 40 
 per cent in speed of working. 
 
 In joining braid be sure and lap it well 
 over the piece it is joined to, but when two 
 parts of a design just touch, see that the 
 braid does no more, do not lap one on to 
 the other. In turning a figure or point, 
 if the sharp turn is made lap the braid well 
 down the point to give the sharp turn for 
 most designs the mitered turn is preferred. 
 When the pattern requires rings, baste 
 them in position first, (as often braid 
 finishes on a ring.) 
 
 You are now ready to whip or overcast 
 the edges of the braid that have become 
 fuUed in going around the curves, but first 
 a word about these same curves. In bast- 
 ing braid hold it easy, do not pull or stretch 
 it to make it fit. When going around 
 curves their outer edges will require more 
 braid than their inner edges and so take 
 your basting stitches on the outer edge al- 
 lowing the braid a little fullness, if any- 
 
 thing, on this edge, otherwise this part of 
 the design will pull out of shape. Of 
 course in making this allowance you get an 
 extra fullness on the inner edge and here 
 is where the overcasting is to be done. For 
 this use a fine thread No. 400 is a very sat- 
 isfactory size, tie the thread in the edge of 
 the braid with the lace knot and overcast 
 in every hole in the edge of braid until the 
 fullness is pulled flat to the design then 
 fasten off the thread with the lace knot. 
 Do not overcast edges of braid that are not 
 fulled. Every extra unnecessary stitch 
 takes just so much from the delicacy of the 
 work. It is well to fasten together at this 
 point with dainty stitches the joinings of 
 braid where two parts of design meet and 
 all rings. If you make a practice of doing 
 this at one time you will not be apt to miss 
 a joining here and there. The order of the 
 work will now stand as follows : 
 
 First baste design on oilcloth. 
 
 Second baste braid on entire design. 
 
 Third overcast all fullness. 
 
 Fourth fasten all joinings and parts of 
 design. 
 
 Until these points have been completed 
 you are not ready to take a stitch, but hav- 
 ing accomplished these preliminaries the 
 rest of the work is a pleasant pass-time. 
 
 Professional lace makers always plan the 
 arrangement of stitches to be used, and the 
 portions of design that are a "repeat" 
 must be worked alike. When the same 
 stitch occurs many times in a design one 
 gets along much faster to go over the de- 
 sign with that stitch, putting it in all the 
 spaces where it is destined to be used. The 
 reason is that by working the same stitch 
 repeatedly one can do it much more rapid- 
 ly and also more evenly. The best workers 
 make the design itself first, then put in the 
 background stitches. The same stitches 
 used in the design should not be used in 
 the background, for the latter the Bruges 
 stitch, Raleigh bars and spider webs, 
 wheels, etc., are preferable. 
 
EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 PRESSING LACE. 
 
 The step next after the lace is complet- 
 ed consists in pressing the work. Place 
 the lace on a soft ironing blanket and with 
 a hot iron go over the oil cloth pressing very 
 firmly, this prevents the lace pulling out 
 of shape when removed from the pattern. 
 Lace worked over the oilcloth and pressed 
 in this manner will be the same size as the 
 design showing no shrinkage. If these 
 points are not observed the worker must 
 count on a considerable shrinkage and 
 all(^w for it especially where a piece of lace 
 is desired a particular size ; after the lace 
 
 is removed from the pattern it is again 
 pressed, on the wrong side always. 
 REflOVINCi THE LACE FROH PATTERN. 
 
 After the lace is finished take out the 
 basting stitches that hold the design to the 
 oilcloth then with a sharp knife cut down 
 between the cambric and oilcloth, cutting 
 in this way all the basting stitches that 
 hold the braid to the pattern. Pull the 
 oilcloth away and with it will come 
 most of the basting stitches. This will save 
 much time that would otherwise be spent 
 pulling out the short cut basting threads, a 
 process that is very tedious. 
 
 OTITCHES for lace work are always greatest care so that; the work shall not 
 *^ eagerly sought by those who make look bungling. An old rule for lace 
 lace; yet a knowledge of a variety of makers, that a knot is in order every 
 
 stitches is of no account unless ____~.^ 
 they are perfectly and neatly ^^^^^ 
 made. In fact I may say that ;^ 
 
 neatness and daintiness are the 
 
 XS ^ \ . ^ry^X " xr]^ . CJ ^ time a thread is crossed, should 
 
 be observed with caution. Es- 
 pecially is this true in laying 
 threads for corners, wheels or 
 
 essential requirements for a lace 
 maker. Joining of braids, knotting. 
 
 other ornaments, where many threads are 
 laid, crossing each other. One can readily 
 see what an ugly bunch would be formed 
 
 =S2S 
 
 finishing off, going down the edge of braids 
 to gain room for a stitch, all require the 
 
 at the knotting point if this rule were 
 followed. In such cases, I lay my threads 
 
EASYgLESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 across and at the last thread gather all on 
 
 the point of the needle, and knot at once. 
 
 The thumb of the left hand should 
 
 never be idle 
 when stitches 
 are being 
 made, it is 
 necessary to 
 hold threads 
 in place, to 
 hold one 
 stitch while another is being formed, in- 
 deed this left thumb is the whole rank and 
 
 file of lace making implements; you can 
 
 no more dispense with it than you can get 
 
 along without the right 
 
 hand. 
 
 A word here about 
 
 thread for working. 
 
 The petit moulin is the 
 
 best imported thread for 
 
 the purpose I know of, 
 
 and to take the kinks out 
 
 of It, I wax it very lightly. ^^^ Q 
 
 This waxing helps also 
 
 to make the stitch keep its perfect form. 
 I have before been 
 cautious about 
 giving this little 
 hint for fear my 
 readers would 
 "wax too strong"— 
 a little is a most ex- 
 cellent thing, a bit 
 too much is fatal. 
 The illustrations of the stitches that 
 
 follow are so plain, very little written 
 
 directions are needed; for myself it is 
 much easier to count stitches in an illus- 
 tration than to follow the printed matter. 
 In all cases 
 the thread or 
 needle is left 
 in position 
 and this will 
 be found an 
 added help. 
 
 Al the 
 
 stitches given here I use in the "opal- 
 escent stitch work," which work, by the 
 
 10 
 
 way I was taught to call "Florentine," 
 but by whatever name you choose to call 
 it, its beauty is undeniable. I have been 
 teaching 
 and design- 
 ing it for 
 th ree or 
 four years 
 for private 
 customers 
 only. 
 
 Figure 
 
 No. I illustrates method of starting 
 foundation row of, simple buttonhole in 
 edge of braid. 
 
 Figure No. 2, commence left hand side 
 of space, take two medium loose buttonhole 
 
EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 stitches in first hole in the edge of braid, hole loop; the needle .s then passed 
 pass to next hole or space in braid, leaving through the hole in the braid tmckr the 
 a loose loop and repeat the two close thread forming loop; when the stitch is 
 
 stitches. Continue this operation to end 
 of space. The second half of illustra- 
 tion shows same stitch started in right 
 hand margin and worked to the left. This 
 is a very effective stitch, used as the 
 foundation for working other combina- 
 tions, or the rows may be repeated to fill 
 space. 
 
 drawn in position the thumb plays an im- 
 portant part in holding it in place until 
 thread is thrown for next stitch. This 
 stitch can be repeated, working from right 
 to left; in which case you make a loop 
 
 Figure No. 3 is a rather more elaborate 
 stitch, yet as quickly made as No. 2. 
 Start at left hand margin, make one simple 
 buttonhole loop, do not draw tight, make 
 another buttonhole stitch in the same 
 space used for first stitch, bring point of 
 needle through first stitch, repeat in every 
 hole of braid across space. The illustra- 
 tion will show how the second buttonhole 
 stitch is taken 
 through the first. 
 
 Figure No. 4 is 
 so plainly drawn it 
 needs no further 
 instruction, but I 
 will say that in 
 throwing thread into position for loop, it 
 is thrown backward instead of forward, as 
 is the case in making the ordinary button- 
 
 with the thread, with one end of loop 
 thrown to the left held under the thumb; 
 then put needle through loop above bring- 
 ing it down through loop held in place by 
 thumb, and draw 
 carefully in posi- 
 tion. 
 
 Figure No. 5 is 
 one of the most 
 valuable of our 
 stitches. Make 
 buttonhole loop at 
 left margin, work 
 back on loop just 
 made four button- 
 hole stitches, pass 
 needle through three of them to the right, 
 make another loop in margin of braid and 
 repeat. Continue this until you have 
 
EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 worked to the right hand margin. If you 
 wish to apply this stitch to a space, you 
 can work back to the left a row of loose 
 single buttonhole loops, when the first row 
 will be repeated. See Figure 6. 
 
 Figure No. 7 shows this same stitch ap- 
 plied to irregular space. 
 
 Figure No. 8, start at left 
 margin, tie loop in third 
 
 from one margin to opposite, twist back 
 two or three times on the thread, or to 
 about the center of space; always hold 
 the thread under thumb after twisting 
 while taking next stitch in opposite mar- 
 gin, twist back as before and repeat. 
 
 Figure No. 10 is a very 
 good "ribbon stitch." To 
 make: first, start at one 
 end of the space to be 
 
 hole in edge of braid, work back on 
 this loop four buttonhole stitches, carry 
 forward into edge of braid skipping one 
 hole, tie thread, work back four button- 
 hole stitches, when the right margin is 
 reached, carry thread into it on a straight 
 line and over-cast down the edge of braid 
 to a depth equal to the space occupied by 
 the four stitches; now work back to left 
 margin and repeat; the trick in making 
 this stitch lies in going down the edge of 
 braid, as stated above, to give room for 
 
 each successive row; and in working these 
 buttonholes to show a little loop at top as 
 in illustration. 
 
 Figure No. 9, twisted honey comb for 
 narrow spaces. Start this stitch from the 
 top edge; in working, carry thread across 
 
 ■fflBffi^ffiSSffl 
 
 filled, cross to opposite margin four loops 
 or holes in the braid from the button edge. 
 Take up the fifth loop on the needle, cross 
 to left margin four loops up from last stitch 
 on that side, pick up the fifth loop. Re- 
 peat this; crossing back and forth until 
 space is filled; now work back down the 
 space in same manner, taking up the 
 middle loops of braid between the stitches 
 taken in working up. The last part of the 
 stitch is made by knotting a thread down 
 the center; pick up the threads where they 
 cross and knot. 
 
 Figure No. 11, make foundation row of 
 two buttonhole loops in margin of braid as 
 shown in Figure 2; working from left to 
 right; go back to right working four but- 
 tonhole loops in each loop of the preced- 
 ing row, work to right again, working two 
 buttonhole loops in each of the preceding 
 and repeat, alternating a row of 2's with 
 a row of 4's. 
 
 Figure No. 12, is worked in same man- 
 ner as No. II, except that you start with 
 a foundation of one buttonhole loop made 
 in every other hole in margin of braid as 
 Figure No. i working from left to right; 
 go back to left working three buttonhole 
 
EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 loops in each of the loops of the preced- 
 ing row, and repeat alternating rows of 
 I's and 3's. 
 
 - Figure No. 13. Work across edge of braid 
 taking a loose buttonhole stitch in every 
 other loop or hole in the braid; commence 
 always at the right hand edge of braid. 
 When the left margin is reached, slip the 
 needle through the loop of braid just 
 opposite, or on the line with the stitches. 
 Now twist back on this row of loops just 
 made, putting the needle under each loop 
 once; when you have twisted to the right 
 margin go down one loop on the braid, 
 putting the needle through the loop in the 
 braid; work back a row of buttonhole 
 loops in each loop of the preceding row 
 taking up only one thread. Be careful 
 never to work this row of buttonhole loops 
 
 to second space take four close buttonhole 
 stitches, repeat to right margin. Twist 
 
 
 
 over both threads; leave free the one 
 twisted back on. 
 
 Figure No. 13a illustrates another twisted 
 stitch much used in old real lace. Com- 
 mence at left hand margin one loop down 
 side of braid, first buttonhole loop in, tie 
 in fourth hole of braid; repeat, take four 
 close buttonhole stitches, one in each con- 
 secutive hole of the braid. Repeat first 
 two stitches, then repeat third stitch. 
 This brings you to right margin. Take 
 thread straight out through the braid and 
 twist back to left margin, when you carry 
 the needle down one hole in braid. Take 
 two stitches in first space, carry over 
 thread, take two stitches in each space 
 until right margin is reached, when you 
 twist back to left margin. Take one but- 
 tonhole stitch in first space, carry thread 
 
 back, repeat. See Figure 13a for forma- 
 tion of groups. 
 
 Figure No. 13b is still another twisted 
 stitch. Commence at left margin, work loose 
 buttonhole in every other hole in edge of 
 braid; twist back, taking one twist in each 
 loop; work down on braid at left side two 
 loops, work across simple loose button- 
 hole stitches; repeat till space is filled. 
 
 Figure No. 14. Commence at right mar- 
 gin, work to left. First stitch — make large 
 buttonhole loop, 
 taking the first 
 four holes in 
 braid; second 
 stitch, repeat an- 
 other large but- 
 tonhole loop 2»5 
 taken as the first; third, take three but- 
 tonhole loops in succession, one in each 
 hole of the braid; carry the needle into 
 braid at side edge on a line with the 
 stitch, twist back once between each close 
 buttonhole loop, and twice between the 
 large loops, until you 
 have reached the right 
 margin; go down one 
 space in braid on side, 
 work back; work two 
 buttonhole stitches, 
 one each side of the 
 first stitch taken in 
 preceding row; take 
 another long button- 
 hole loop and work 
 three close button- 
 holes under same kind of stitches in pre- 
 ceding row, commencing at the left side 
 
EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 of the first stitch in this group in upper 
 row; you have now reached the left mar- 
 gin, twist back as before until you have 
 reached the right margin, when the rows 
 are repeated till space is filled. Very care- 
 ful attention must be paid to the illustra- 
 tion, as that 
 clearly shows 
 the formation 
 of the groups. 
 Figure No. 
 15. C om- 
 mence at left 
 margin, work 
 across, a row 
 of loose but- 
 tonhole stitches in every other hole in 
 braid; go down on the side two holes in 
 edge of braid and work back as follows: 
 In first loop of preceding row take two 
 buttonhole stitches, the first loose and the 
 second tight; now take a third stitch at the 
 bottom of these two stitches, throwing 
 thread backward and putting needle 
 through loop formed when the first two 
 stitches were made; continue across and 
 repeat each row alike. 
 
 Figure No. 15a, illustrates very plainly 
 the method of this third stitch around the 
 other two. Figure 15b shows still a third 
 
 the other twisted stitches given before, 
 and each buttonhole loop is also twisted; 
 the twisting is done after the buttonhole 
 loop is formed. To twist, put the needle 
 up through the buttonhole loop once, which 
 will form the twist; proceed and make an- 
 other loop, con- 
 tinue as before. 
 The more times 
 the needle is put 
 through the loop 
 the deeper the 
 twist. See Figure 
 17 for another 
 form of twisted 
 loop. 
 
 Figure No. \\ 
 Lay mesh dividing spaces in squares. 
 Tie thread in margin, twist to first inter- 
 section of threads and weave over and 
 under three times, twist to next intersec- 
 tion of threads and repeat. 
 
 Figure No. 19 is made in the same man- 
 ner on an eight- thread mesh; see illustra- 
 tion for laying mesh. 
 
 Figure No. 20. In this figure the only 
 point to be carefully noted is that all twist- 
 ing of threads is carried to the lower mar- 
 gin. No other explanation is necessary. 
 
 Figure No. 21. Work a row of very 
 
 variety of this same stitch; the only differ- 
 ence between Figure 15a and 15b, is that 
 instead of taking one stitch around the 
 bottom of the two buttonhole stitches, two 
 stitches are worked. 
 
 Figure No. 16 is twisted across as in 
 
 loose buttonhole stitches, tying each one 
 in every other hole in edge of braid; work 
 from left to right; when the right side is 
 reached, go down side edge of braid one 
 hole, carry thread back straight across 
 to left margin and tie in braid; go down 
 
EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 edge of braid one hole and work back a 
 second row of loose butonhole loops, catch- 
 ing in the thread laid straight across. In 
 making this row, put the needle down under 
 both the laid threads and the buttonhole 
 loop in first row, holding the thread as in 
 figure 4 for knot, pull tight and repeat. 
 Figures 22 and 23 are a variety of the 
 
 same stitch, except the needle is put up 
 through the loop and laid thread instead of 
 down ; one and two stitches may be worked 
 in each loop. 
 
 Figure No. 24. Commence at point of 
 figure at left, make one buttonhole loop 
 across top, go down one hole in braid on 
 right side and work back three tight but- 
 
 tonholes, carry thread to left margin in 
 line with the point you started from on 
 right side; go down edge of braid three 
 holes, work back a row of two tight button- 
 hole stitches in preceding row of three, 
 carry thread to right margin down three 
 
 holes, down one hole again ; work back into 
 long loop just made three tight buttonhole 
 stitches, carry thread across to second long 
 loop and work three tight buttonhole 
 stitches, cross to left margin of braid, go 
 down one hole, go down three holes; 
 
 work to right margin with two buttonhole 
 stitches taken into the preceding three; 
 carry thread down edge of braid three 
 holes, down one hole, and you are now 
 ready to work to the left on the third row 
 —see Figure 24. 
 
 Figure 34a. A valuable filling stitch, see 
 Figure 34b for application. Lay thread 
 down center of space, twist back and 
 weave the branches as shown in Figure 
 34a. In this connection you wiU note that 
 three threads are woven over to produce 
 the branches or wheat ears. A splendid 
 stitch for mount meUick. 
 
 Figure No. 25. Commence at left mar- 
 gin of braid in top edge, not down one 
 hole on side as is usual ; skip one hole, make 
 a loose buttonhole, close beside it in same 
 hole make another tied buttonhole loop 
 
10 
 
 EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 throwing thread as in illustration; repeat 
 to fill space. 
 
 Figure No. 26. Successive rows of loose 
 buttonholes. Work from left to right, mak- 
 ing two buttonhole stitches in each loop, 
 one loose and one tight. 
 
 34a 
 To make the knotted buttonhole stitch see 
 
 needle in illustration. 
 
 Figure No. 28. Commence left margin 
 of braid, knot thread in braid, skip two 
 
 Figure No. 27. Work from left to right 
 row of loose buttonhole stitches. Go down 
 right edge of margin one hole in the braid, 
 work back to left, making knotted button- 
 
 34b 
 
 hole stitch in each loop of preceding row. 
 holes, work three tight buttonholes, repeat 
 to right margin, go down on braid one hole, 
 work back same as first row. 
 
 Figure No. 29. Groups of single loose 
 buttonhole stitches taken on long founda- 
 tion loops. The illustration is so clear, no 
 trouble will be experienced counting 
 stitches. 
 
 Figure No. 30. Work around on inside 
 edge braid two rows close buttonhole 
 stitches, twist back on second row, com- 
 mence center of bottom edge of figure and 
 work row loose buttonhole stitches up the 
 right side to center or top of figure ; work 
 down left side with same thread in cross 
 stitch, catching the stitches in buttonhole 
 loops. 
 
 Figure No. 31. Work around the figure 
 three rows medium loose buttonhole stitches 
 twisting last two rows. 
 
 Figures 30 and 31 show only two forms 
 of this style of oval filling but there are 
 many variations. 
 
 Figure 32. Mesh laid in square once 
 crossed diagonally then Avoven back and 
 forth on two threads, see Figure 32. 
 
 Figure 35 is made by taking the working 
 thread from margin to margin of braid in 
 clusters of three, four or five and is an easy 
 and effective way of filling a narrow space. 
 
 Figure 36 shows a splendid combination. 
 First around the edge of braid work a row 
 of Fig. No. 5, next lay in 8 threads and 
 weave the English wheel on them. To make 
 this wheel weave over and under, first put 
 the needle under the first thread then put it 
 over the same thread and under the second 
 and continue, repeating this until rows 
 enough are woven to fill the space as full as 
 desired. 
 
 Figure 37 is a combination of mesh and 
 buttonhole. Figure 38 shows it in better 
 
EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 11 
 
 detail, the left hand side of Figure 37 is the 
 same stitch differently arranged. 
 
 This stitch is very effective, making a 
 soft lace-like filling for almost any space. 
 To work, begin at top of space to be filled, 
 work across from left to right in plain 
 buttonhole loops until center of space is 
 reached when a long loose loop is made, 
 after which repeat the regular buttonhole 
 loops until the side of the design is reached. 
 Work two loops "down the side of braid tak- 
 ing the stitch in the edge of the braid; now 
 work back buttonhole loops from right to 
 
 Avorked exactly like the cross except that a 
 stitch from right to left is taken in every 
 other loop of the braid and that each time 
 you cross from one side to the other of 
 space you twist the stitch two or more times 
 according to the width being filled. To 
 twist put the needle over the thread and 
 pull out straight and firm from you. Do 
 this as many times as you desire to twist. 
 
 Figures No. 41 illustrates a simple spider 
 web. The best web is made over an uneven 
 number of threads. First tie the thread in 
 the braid on one margin, carry it across 
 
 left until the long loop you made in the pre- 
 ceding row is reached when you will work 
 in it five buttonhole stitches ; repeat the 
 buttonhole loops to edge of design; repeat 
 rows until space is filled. 
 
 I will now give a few of the simpler fancy 
 stitches, and the cross is of course the very 
 simplest used and is the foundation of 
 many more difficult ones. To work, carry 
 the thread from you, from right to left 
 taking a stitch in each loop of the braid. 
 
 Figure 39 represents this stitch very 
 clearly. 
 
 Figure No. 40. Tne honeycomb stitch is 
 
 the space in a straight line and tie in the 
 opposite edge of braid, making a regular 
 lace knot, pulling the thread toivard you to 
 fasten it, twist back on this thread just 
 laid, half way or to the center of space, tie, 
 carry this thread to a point of the 
 margin at a distance from where you 
 started, tie in braid, tAvist back on this 
 thread to the center then lay the thread to 
 another point of the space, continue until 
 you have as many threads as desired, 5, 7 
 or 9 as the case may be, twisting back to the 
 center ever time. When the last thread is 
 in you are ready to weave, which you do by 
 
12 
 
 EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 tying a knot in the center over all the 
 theads, after which weave over and under 
 each thread. After the weaving is done the 
 needle should be opposite the first thread 
 laid in, you will remember only half of this 
 first thread was twisted the half on which 
 
 tory for long, curved or straight spaces. 
 It fills leaves excellently. 
 
 Figure No. 43 shows the fern stitch. This 
 is a little heavier and richer in effect than 
 coral and may be used to alternate with the 
 former in different spaces. It is also worked 
 
 
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 41 
 
 you returned to the center, the other half 
 has not been twisted and you now twist out 
 on this untwisted thread to the edge of 
 braid at the starting point where the thread 
 is to be fastened off. 
 
 CORAL AND FERN STITCHES. 
 
 These stitches are both worked on the 
 cross stitch as a foundation, for the cross 
 stitch see Figure 39, work a buttonhole 
 
 39 40 
 
 upon the cross stitch foundation, taken now 
 in every other hole on the edge of the braid. 
 After the cross stitch is in work the fronds 
 of the fern in buttonhole stitch as follows : 
 Commence at point of figure in the center 
 and work over two threads, putting needle 
 under one loop at the right side. Work 
 three or four buttonhole stitches over 
 these two threads, according to space— this 
 
 stitch in the center, taking one thread 
 of the first row of cross stitch and one 
 thread of the second row, to buttonhole 
 over, proceed — taking each time one old 
 thread and one new one, working toward 
 you. 
 
 This is a most effective and beautiful 
 stitch, it fills rapildy and is most satisfac- 
 
 will bring you close to right hand margin, 
 you having commenced buttonholing in the 
 center. Now cross to the center down un- 
 der the next loop, as you cross from right to 
 center leave the thread loose (see cut), 
 work from center to left hand margin ; re- 
 turn to center one loop lower down and 
 repeat. 
 
EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 13 
 
 SINGLE POINT DE BRETAQNE 46. 
 
 To work, lay two threads side by side, 
 a little distance apart, down the center of 
 design, knotting them firmly in edge of 
 braid ; where the center vein is curved these 
 threads must be fastened to the foundation 
 in the desired curve after the foundation 
 
 DOUBLE POINT DE BRETAQNE. 
 
 Figure No. 46. This stitch is worked ex- 
 actly like the one just described except that 
 the side loops are woven like the center vein. 
 Double Bretagne is such a showy stitch that 
 it is hailed with delight, and pupils never 
 tire working it, indeed, the tendency is to 
 
 in-mmrmrmTTi 
 
 rrcrr.-.rrrrrrn^CTmrrrrr,,^^^ 
 
 'T'^rr, 
 
 ffttfJIfi'TTT} , 
 
 ^"^ (in fir'"" 
 
 
 4-- 
 
 44 
 
 threads are in. Commence at bottom edge of 
 design, fasten thread in edge of braid and 
 placing point of needle hetween the two 
 lines just laid, pull out the right return 
 needle point between the two lines and pull 
 out to the left, thus weaving over and under 
 the two threads for about one quarter of an 
 inch ; when the needle is between the two 
 
 45 
 reproduce it too frequently in the same de- 
 sign. 
 
 Figure No. 47 shows ring fastened to 
 braid with twisted threads. Whenever a 
 part of design is joined in this way the 
 thread must be twisted. 
 
 Perhaps the one thing more than all 
 o#iers that is difficult for the amateur lace 
 
 threads carry it down to one side of design 
 at a slight angle and take a stitch in the 
 loop of the braid, go back to the center 
 \ein and carry thread down to braid on op- 
 posite side, then return and weave another 
 quarter of an inch of the center vein and 
 repeat the side loops. 
 
 maker is to make harmonious groupings 
 and combinations of different stitches. The 
 design should be studied carefully and such 
 parts as require the heaviest shading (pro- 
 viding you were embroidering) must be 
 filled with close stitches. Always surround 
 a close worked section with spaces filled 
 
14 
 
 EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 with more delicate, laeey stitches, and do 
 not use to many different stitches in a de- 
 sign. 
 
 Another tiling to avoid is crowding 
 stitches; give them room, let each stitch 
 -show its full value. Figure No. 5, is often 
 
 utterly ruined by being worked too close in' 
 a given space. 
 
 In making the simple shell stitch the 
 effect is lost utterly unless the directions 
 — one loose, one tight, one loose stitch— are 
 observed. Some workers imagine this al- 
 ternation of loose and tight stitches make 
 
 no difference in the finished shell, but it 
 does. Try the two methods and you ivill at 
 once see the great beauty of the shell cor- 
 rectly made. 
 
 As I stated previously the entire beauty 
 of a lace piece may be utterly ruined unless 
 the stitches are pleasingly and harmonious- 
 
 ly combined. There is a right and wrong 
 place in every design for the heavy 
 and lacey stitches, and the design 
 must be kept well balanced. This 
 is quite as important as placing 
 the shades in embroidery. I consider 
 Figures 6, 7,21,22,37, 34a, 24, 29, 25, 27, 26, 
 13a indispensible stitches. They can be used 
 to fill any shaped space, and can be counted 
 on every time to give dignity and grace to a 
 design; but I never use them for a back 
 ground or filling stitch. I confine them 
 exclusively to the working out of the design 
 itself. Figures 18, 19 and Figures 32 and 
 48 are exceedingly good back ground 
 stitches, though any one of the last four 
 may be used in the design; when this is 
 done it must not appear in the same design 
 as a back ground stitch. The reaUy ideal 
 back ground stitches are the spider, Raleigh 
 bar and Bruges stitches, for this latter see 
 figure 48. 
 
 In scroll designs many unusual and irreg- 
 ular spaces occur which cannot be well 
 filled with mesh stitches. For this purpose 
 we have Figures 9, 10, 20, 30, 31, 35. These 
 are extremely available and some one of 
 them can be used effectively in some portion 
 of almost every design. 
 
 In Detail No. 1 I illustrate what I mean 
 by proper combination of stitches. In it 
 you will find Figures No. 6, 25, 29— a mod- 
 ification of Figure 35 — twisted bars in 
 groups of three. Figure 33— in the center, 
 wheels and spiders as shown in Figure 36. 
 The back ground is filled with another 
 stitch which I give in detail here in Figure 
 No. 49. It consists of carrying threads in 
 loose buttonhole loops from one part of 
 edge together as for raleigh bars, working 
 in the center of each loop a stitch like Fig- 
 ure 4. "When the needle is put through the 
 loop, the stitch must be pulled tight, you 
 then proceed to the next space. This filling 
 looks better done with very fine thread. No. 
 200 at least. 
 
Detail No. 2 illustrates another most 
 effective combination. The back ground 
 IS tilled with Raleigh bars at the bottom part 
 of design, the oval forming the base of de- 
 
 altei^iating. One of these stitches is 
 further shown in Figures 51 and 52 and is 
 made as follows .- 
 
 Commence from the bottom end of figure 
 
 Detail No. 1. 
 
 is filled with Figure la The five 'if . '' *° *''" "«"*' «« down one stitch in 
 
 above thi. space a're filLd w^^tw s«tcht '^^j' 'T ' 'T '"''' ''''''' """"'^''"■^ 
 
 stitcfies stitches, talie one long buttonhole, skipping 
 
16 
 
 EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 
 
 two of the loops above ; work single button- 
 hole stitches to the left edge of braid, go 
 down five spaces in left edge of braid, take 
 a long loose buttonhole stitch into the long 
 buttonhole loop made in preceding row, 
 twist the last stitch by slipping the needle 
 under the long loose buttonhole thiee times, 
 repeat six times, this brings you to the right 
 margin of braid. Work back to the left 
 margin taking a close buttonhole stitch in 
 each of the loops formed in preceding row ; 
 this gives ten stitches across the width ; go 
 
 stitch back into the loop above and make 
 one more, joining into the edge of the right 
 margin of braid on a level with the bottom 
 of the loop just made; go down five spaces 
 and make fan as directed for Detail No. 2, 
 Figure 52 is a variation of Figure 51. 
 
 To make the alternating stitch in Detail 
 No. a, work four close buttonhole stitches 
 in braid, make two open buttonhole loops, 
 skipping one loop in braid between each, 
 then four close buttonhole stitches to right 
 margin, work down two spaces, bring one 
 
 Detail No. 2. 
 
 down one space in edge of braid, work 
 back three small buttonhole stitches in 
 preceding row; skip two, making a long 
 buttonhole as in the second row, continue 
 to right margin with the small buttonhole, 
 this completes the fan, and the balance of 
 space to be filled is simply a repetition. 
 In filling space like Figure 5 1, commence 
 in right hand margin, take one long but- 
 tonhole loop across to the left margin, 
 which gives one loop in this row; go down 
 braid two spaces, work one buttonhole 
 
 long buttonhole loop into first open space 
 in preceding row, one buttonhole in next 
 loop, one long loop over to left margin of 
 braid, work down one space on left margin 
 of braid, work over the long loose button- 
 hole loop just made with close tight but- 
 tonhole stitches, go up with one loose 
 stitch into small loop left in preceding 
 row, come down into next long loop, work 
 over it with tight buttonhole stitches and 
 repeat till space is filled. 
 
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