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3/-2-- 
 
 The Author begs to inform the public, thai he has it 
 in contemplation to publish a Series of Trials by Inqui- 
 sition, both in Spanish and English, with facsimiles of the 
 signatures of the Inquisitor and his officers, the Notary and 
 the accused. The original manuscripts, which were stolen 
 from the Court of Inquisition at Lima, at the time of its de- 
 struction by the populace of that city, are now in possession 
 of the Author, and have been examined by several gentlemen 
 of literary talents, who concur in opinion, that they ought 
 not only to be translated into the English language, but that 
 the MS. should then be deposited in some safe, but public in- 
 stitution. At present it is impossible for the Author to form 
 any idea relative to the expenses attendant on such an under- 
 taking ; but as soon as an estimate can be given, he will lay 
 before the public a prospectus of the work, and should he 
 meet with a liberal support, those documents, of a nature so 
 exceedingly curious, will not be withheld. 
 
 The Author will chearfully gratify the curiosity of any 
 gentleman who may be desirous of perusing them, and those 
 who are inclined to patronize the work, are requested to for- 
 ward their names to Messrs. Law fy Whittaker, Ave 
 Maria Lane, London. 
 
'•' •■■■"a y^ • v- 
 
 J'tpl^tWfitti 
 
 2S$&3im 
 
 Patooxee 
 
 
Zf>t WnUn'ti Togajj*, 
 
 TO 
 
 pitcairn's island. 
 
 BY LIEUT. J. SHILLJBEER, R. M. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH EIGHTEEN ETCHINGS BY THE AUTHOR, 
 FROM DRAWINGS ON THE SPOT. 
 
 Taunton : 
 
 PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR BY J. W. MARRIOTT, 
 
 Add Published by Law and Whittaker, Ave Maria Lane, London ; (tod 
 may be had of all Booksellers in Town and Country. 
 
 1817. 
 
5? 
 
TO THE 
 
 OFFICERS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 <£ovpjS of &ogal Jftarttteg, 
 
 AND 
 
 ROYAL MARINE ARTILLERY, 
 
 THIS WORK 
 
 IS AS A 
 
 SMALL TRIBUTE OF HIS HIGH ESTEEM 
 
 MOST RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, 
 
 BY THEIR 
 MOST OBEDIENT, AND VERY HUMBLE SERVANT, 
 
 JOHN SHILL1BEER, Lieut. R. M. 
 
 Walkhampton, March 17, 1817. 
 
PREFAC 
 
 v/NE of the most ordinary features of a 
 prefatory address being- that of propitiating 
 the public opinion, the writer of the fol- 
 lowing pages ventures on this part of his 
 task with a persuasion., that in few cases 
 could the liberality of the reader be more 
 required, or perhaps more justified, than on 
 the present occasion. 
 
 The motives for committing the fol- 
 lowing Narrative to the press, were not such 
 as usually actuate adventurers in the paths 
 of Literature. Certainly neither the calcu- 
 lation of interest nor the hope of reputation 
 propelled the author to his undertaking. 
 The too frequently recorded disappoint- 
 ments of those who, uninitiated in the mys- 
 teries of the pre^s, presume to look to it for 
 indemnity for their labours, prevent his in- 
 dulging in a similar delusion, and he is too 
 
II 
 
 conscious of his deficiencies, to entertain 
 the most distant hope of distinction by his 
 present humble performance. The motive, 
 then, to be explained, is simply that of com- 
 plying with the solicitations of many of his 
 friends, the companions of his voyage, who, 
 relying on the fidelity of his observations, 
 wish to preserve a narrative of those events 
 in which their feelings were equally interest- 
 ed with his own. This, mingled with a faint 
 hope that, in some particulars, the circum- 
 stances described will not be entirely without 
 interest to the public, have led to the produc- 
 tion of this volume. The illustrations will, 
 perhaps, have their best apology in the fact 
 of their having been executed by the author 
 for his amusement, and in their being the 
 first productions of his attempts at graphic 
 delineation. Of the style and phraseology 
 of his work, he is fully sensible how much 
 lie stands in need of every indulgent consi- 
 deration. A life of arduous duty, within the 
 confines of a ship, admits of little opportu- 
 nity of acquiring either grace of couiposi- 
 
Ill 
 
 tion or accuracy of language. The writer 
 is perfectly aware how vulnerable he is to 
 criticism on this ground; but there is one 
 consideration which may redeem this humble 
 performance from the obloquy to which it 
 might otherwise be exposed, and this he 
 presents to the reader, in the solemn pledge, 
 that whatever may be the defects of his per- 
 formance, the want of truth will, in no in- 
 stance, be found to augment the literary 
 delinquencies of which he may be found 
 guilty. 
 
The Names of Officers belonging to the Briton, 
 0/44 Guns and 300 Men. 
 
 Sir T.STAINES, K.C.B. 
 JAMES WILKIE, 
 J. W. PROWSE, . 
 RODNEY SHANNON, 
 C.B.LOUIS, . . 
 JOHN SHILLIBEER 
 IT. BENNETT, . 
 ALEX. BARR, . 
 E. TUTTIETT, . 
 PETER FORREST, 
 
 BLAKE, . 
 
 THOS. STUART, . 
 GEO. LE PINE, . 
 
 ROBERTSON, 
 
 ROBINSON, 
 
 JOHN BROWN, . 
 Mr. CROZIER, . 
 
 WOODTHORPE 
 
 SKYRING, . 
 
 — BROOMAN, . 
 BLACKMORE, 
 
 — TYLDEN, . . 
 
 GANETT, . . 
 
 GALINDO, . 
 
 SMITH, . . . 
 
 RIDOUT, . . 
 
 Captain. 
 
 1st Lieutenant. 
 
 2d Ditto. 
 
 3d Ditto. 
 
 4th Ditto. 
 
 1st Lieut, commanding R.M= 
 
 2d Ditto. 
 
 Surgeon. 
 
 Assistant Surgeon, 
 
 Purser. 
 
 Clerk. 
 
 Master's Mates. 
 
 Carpenter. 
 Boatswain. 
 Gunner. 
 
 >-Midskipmen. 
 
A NARRATIVE 
 
 BRITONS VOYAGE, 
 
 PITCAIRN'S ISLAND. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 IMotwithstAxXding the variety of publi- 
 cations which have at different times appear- 
 ed on this subject, I feel it is impossible that a 
 voyage to the South Seas can, under any cir- 
 cumstance, be devoid of interest, and as a more 
 than ordinary share has been attached to the 
 one so recently completed by H. M. Frigate 
 Briton, I have, at the solicitation of my friends, 
 been induced to submit to the notice of the 
 public, the observations which occured to me 
 during the period of my employment on that 
 service. 
 
2 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 December 31, 1813. 
 
 It was late in the month of December when 
 the Fleet destined for the East Indies and South 
 America had collected at Spithead, and the 
 Commodore availing himself of the first east- 
 erly breeze, proceeded without tarrying at St. 
 Helens, into the English Channel. In a few 
 days we had cleared the western promontory 
 of England, and early on the morning of the 
 25 th day from our departure, we made the 
 Island of Madeira. During the two preced- 
 ing days it had blown with exceeding great 
 violence, nor was the wind abated when the 
 Fort William Indiaman became disabled and 
 in want of immediate assistance, which oc- 
 casioned our separation from the Fleet, and 
 ultimate change of destination. It was two 
 days 'ere we could reach the anchorage of 
 Funchall, when ail our mechanics were set to 
 work, and from the most exemplary exertions 
 of Sir Thomas Staines, we were on the eighth 
 day again enabled to put to sea. 
 
 At our approach to this anchorage, I was 
 very much pleased with the appearance of the 
 town, as well as with the beauties of the 
 scenery, which, altho' in the depth of winter, 
 bore a very agreeable aspect, 
 
 Funchall, the capital of the Island, in latitude 
 S2«37 ;/ N. and longitude, 16° \5 J/ W. is 
 
briton's voyage. 3 
 
 situated on the side of a steep mountain, form- 
 ing a kind of amphitheatre, prettily interspers- 
 ed with vines and trees of various sorts with 
 which tire Island abounds. It is of considerable 
 extent, and rather regularly built, the streets 
 narrow, but from a constant run of w T ater thro' 
 many of them, they are comparatively clean. 
 The inclination of this mountain gives the 
 houses at the upper part of the town, an ex- 
 tensive view, not only of the beach below, but 
 also of the adjacent Islands, known by the name 
 of the Deserters. 
 
 The rivers running thro* the town, are at 
 some periods of considerable size, and prin- 
 cipally supplied from the snow, which, dur- 
 ing the greater part of the year, clothes the 
 summits of the mountains, from whence they 
 issue and run with a rapidity, impeded alone 
 by the massive rocks* with which their courses 
 abound, until they discharge themselves into 
 the sea. 
 
 The fortifications are but few and of little 
 import, and the troops which occupied them, 
 were part of the English Veteran Battalions. 
 
 The town possesses several churches, but 
 none of them are handsome, and with the ex- 
 ception of a massive pair of silver gates in front 
 of one of the altars, there is nothing worthy of 
 notice. 
 
* A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 I did not perceive a single painting of arty 
 merit in either of them. There is an extensive 
 college for the instruction of youth, in all the 
 branches of literature, and I was given to un- 
 derstand a great many young gentlemen are 
 sent here from Portugal to receive their educa- 
 tion. There is a dominican and a benedictine 
 monastery, and to the latter (which is the only 
 thing curious or worthy the notice of a stranger) 
 is attached a small chapel formerly known by 
 the name of the chapel of "All Souls," and had 
 for its motto " memento mori," but it is now 
 better known by that of Golgotha, which ap- 
 pellation it has obtained from its being entirely 
 lined with human skulls and bonesf Its in- 
 terior has no other tracery. Of its origin I 
 could only learn, that it was founded by some 
 religious persons, who at their death btqueath- 
 ed -property to a considerable amount, on con- 
 dition that a certain number of masses should 
 be daily said for the repose of their souls, un- 
 der the penalty of losing such bequests in case 
 qf the slightest neglect ; but notwithstanding 
 this precaution, the chapel has not for many 
 years been used for any other purpose than to 
 gratify the curiosity of the traveller, nor could 
 I ascertain that the masses were continued to 
 be said in any other place, altho' the Priests 
 still continue to receive the benefit arising from 
 the estates so bequeathed. 
 
ftrw *» £tch(Z> <V t, t --#MJt(>'»r~T>- 
 
chiton's voyage. 
 
 The climate is particularly fine, insomuch 
 that Funchall and its vicinity is frequently the 
 resort of invalids, but few, I fear, have suffici- 
 ent resolution to withstand either the tempta- 
 tion of its natural luxuries, or the hospitality 
 of its Anglo inhabitants, and reap the full bene- 
 fit of its renovating salubrity. 
 
 The invalid can avail himself of a tempera- 
 ture the most suited tohisimmediatecomplaint, 
 by being carried up or down the mountain : 
 he is also enabled to enjoy the most delicious 
 fruits, and not only those natural to the Island, 
 but of his own country. 
 
 The scenery of this Island is peculiarly 
 romantic — precipices of stupendous height, 
 covered with most delightful foliage, here and 
 there interspersed with huts, and cataracts pre- 
 cipitating from rock to rock in awful grandeur, 
 until meeting from various directions among 
 the trees and cottages at the bottom, they 
 form one general stream, which roars as it pur- 
 sues its course to the town. 
 
 The chapel on the mount, stands in a most 
 beautiful situation, but possesses nothing wor- 
 thy of notice, except the loveliness of its site, 
 which affords a view as delightful as can pos- 
 sibly be conceived ; and altho' the journey to 
 it is tiresome, the stranger will be fully repaid 
 
V A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 for Iiis labor by making it a visit. The priest 
 who lives adjoining the chapel, I found to be a 
 very intelligent man, and he treated me with 
 great civility. 
 
 The inns, whether Portuo-uesc or English, are 
 much below mediocrity, and notwithstanding 
 the little accomodation and abundance of filth, 
 their charges are enormous ; and to make the 
 latter still more grievous, the English one pound 
 bank note, was then only current at fourteen 
 shillings. 
 
 I was greatly surprised at finding the theatre 
 so good : it is handsome, spacious, and in every 
 lespect convenient. It was built a few years 
 ago by subscription, and the most consider- 
 able contribution was made by the English 
 merchants residing there, which may in some 
 measure account for its being both in the Eng- 
 lish style, and equal in beauty to any of our 
 provincial theatres. 
 
 About this period one of the most zealous of 
 the English residents proposed the erection of a 
 protestant church, and from the place of amuse- 
 ment having been reared with the rapidity of 
 a meteor, he calculated on a liberal support ; 
 but so few persons came forward on this oc- 
 casion, that the project was relinquished and the 
 few donations returned to the donors. This has 
 been a subject of some mirth to the Portuguese. 
 
briton's voyage. 7 
 
 Little, independent of wine, is produced in. 
 the Island, so that the vine is every where cul- 
 tivated with the greatest care. Not a spot 
 however rugged, but is turned to advantage. 
 
 There area great many slaves here, who are 
 treated less cruelly than in most of the Portu- 
 guese settlements'. They are seldom allowed 
 mote clothing than a coarse rag tied round 
 their middle. 
 
 On the Fort William beinof in readiness to 
 proceed, we weighed anchor, put. again to sea, 
 and after passing thro' the Cape de Verde is- 
 lands and a voyage of little interest, we arrived 
 at Rio de Janiero. 
 
A NARRATIVE OP I If* 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 On the evening of the 20th of March, we 
 intered the harbour of Rio de Janiero, where we 
 found Vice-Admiral Dixon with a small En- 
 glish force. Early next morning the Portu- 
 guese flag was saluted, which compliment was 
 acknowledged by a small battery on the island 
 of Cobrus. * 
 
 * In one of the dungeons of this island, it is said there is at 
 this moment confined a subject of Great Britain, and that 
 Lord Strangford and Sir Sidney Smith have used every mea- 
 sure to effect his liberation, but to no purpose. The report 
 runs thus ; — that about three years prior to the Portuguese 
 court being removed to this place, an English sailor in a 
 state of intoxication happened to be in the streets of Lisbon, 
 tvhen the precession of the Host was passing, and from ig- 
 norance did not follow the example of the Portuguese in 
 falling on his knees. A friar endeavoured to enforce it, 
 ■when the sailor fancying himself attacked, gave battle, and 
 the holy gentleman was soon laid prostrate. Our coun- 
 tryman was overpowered, committed, tried, and condemn, 
 cd ; but by the Immunity at all times so conspicuous iu 
 Catholic countries, his sentence of death was commuted for 
 perpetual confinement in a dungeon, and when the court 
 moved from Lisbon, he also was put on board one of their 
 ships, and conveyed to Rio Janiero where he now lingers 
 out a miserable existence. If this story be true, and I have 
 heard it confidently asserted to be so, this unfortunate 
 young man has been for a long series of years, a most melan- 
 choly victim to the unrelenting and unparalleled tyranny of 
 a government which owes its ?ery existence to that of his 
 own country I ! 1 
 
©.w^r && ap ^ tfau^^-z xkm, 
 
 J 
 
 ^ JfA* fyfuj of (Pfcnjl gftJ/ftjlwrii i tf JJ," ,/ %0-frrtt*/ ffico f &, <JcvtuoYv^) ■ 
 
briton's voyage. 9 
 
 The ciry of San Sebastian, the capital of the 
 Portuguese dominions in South America, and 
 residence of the Prince Regent, is situated on 
 the south side ot an extensive harbour, whose 
 entrance is so exceedingly narrow and well for- 
 tified by nature, that with the smallest assistance 
 of art it could be rendered impiegnable against 
 any attack from the sea. The fort of Santa 
 Cruz, and a very remarkable mountain, from 
 its shape bearing the name of the Sugar Loaf, 
 form the entrance at the distance of about a 
 mile. There is a bar which runs across, but 
 the water is at all times sufficiently deep to al- 
 low the largest ship to pass. Santa Cruz may 
 be considered the principal fortification, and is, 
 with the exception of two small islands com- 
 manding the channel, the onlv one in a tolera- 
 ble state of defence. At the foot of the sugar 
 loaf mountain, is a battery of considerable ex- 
 tent, but so neglected, like several others along 
 the shore, that it is almost become useless. 
 
 The city derives but little protection from 
 its immediate fortifications, and the island of 
 Cobrus, notwithstanding its contiguity, is now 
 but little calculated to render it any. 
 
 There are wharfs and stairs for the purpose 
 of landing at, but the most convenient is at 
 the great square, in which the Prince resides. 
 The palace was originally the mansion of a 
 
 c 
 
ib 
 
 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 merchant : it is extensive, but has nothing par- 
 ticularly magnificent in its appearance, to in- 
 dicate its being the royal residence of the illus- 
 trious house of Braganza. 
 
 At the bottom of this square, is a very good 
 fountain, which is supplied with water from the 
 adjacent mountains, and conveyed some dis- 
 tance by the means of an aqueduct. 
 
 The water is not good, and on first using it, 
 causes a swelling accompanied with pain in the 
 abdomen. Ships may be supplied with con- 
 siderable expedition. 
 
 It is almost impossible for a person possess- 
 ing the least reflection, to pass this spot without 
 being struck by the contrast, which must ne- 
 cessarily present itself to him. — On the one 
 hand, he may contemplate the palace of a 
 voluptuous prince, surrounded by courtiers 
 and wallowing in luxury, on the other, slavery 
 in its most refined and horrible state. 
 
 Leaving the square, you enter a street of con- 
 siderable length and width, in which the cus- 
 tom house, the residence of theBritish consul, 
 &c. &c. are situated. 
 
 The houses are generally well built, some of 
 the streets are good, and all exceedingly filthy. 
 The shops are well supplied with British as 
 well as other wares, and whether the vender be 
 English or Portuguese, he is equally uncon- 
 
briton's voyage. 11 
 
 sionable in his demand. Most of the streets 
 are designated by the trades which occupy 
 them. — As in Shoe-street, you will find shoe 
 makers; in Tin-street, tin men ; in Gold-street, 
 goldsmiths, lapidaries, &c. — Gold-street is the 
 chief attraction, and is generally the resort of 
 strangers, who are anxious to supply themselves 
 with jewellery or precious stones natural to the 
 country : but it is not always they are fortu/ 
 nate enough to succeed in getting them real, for 
 since it has become the royal residence, it has 
 drawn such a host of English, Irish, and Scotch 
 adventurers, and the Portuguese being such 
 apt scholars in knavery, that among them it 
 is ten to one you are offered a piece of paste for 
 a diamond, — among the former it is but seldom 
 otherwise. The Inns, although better than in 
 many places, can boast of no excellence. 
 
 This city posseses a considerable number of 
 churches, but they are by no means splendid, 
 and excepting in the Chapel Royal, which is 
 adjoining the palace, I observed nothing worthy 
 of notice. Here may be seen a few good por- 
 traits of the Apostles. The altar piece is mo- 
 dern, and contains the full length figures of the 
 prince and family kneeling before the holy virgin. 
 
 The theatre and opera are attached also to the 
 palace, but possess no particular elegance. The 
 market is well supplied with every article, and 
 
12 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 is in so eligible a situation, that with a com- 
 paratively small portion of trouble, it might be 
 kept in fine order : but the people are idolaters 
 to filthiness, and not less slaves to it than to 
 superstition. 
 
 The laws of this place seem to be very de- 
 ficient ; without money it is impossible to 
 obtain justice, and with it you can prevent its 
 being administered. The murder of a lay-sub- 
 ject is scarcely ever punished ; the least insult 
 to the church, most rigorously. 
 
 The trade with this port is very consider- 
 able, and from various countries. There is a 
 Chinese warehouse of great extent, and at cer- 
 tain peiiods, articles from China may be pro- 
 cured at a low rate. This establishment is 
 propagating with the greatest assiduity the 
 Tea-plant, and from the progress they have al- 
 ready made, I am authorised in drawing a con- 
 clusion of its ultimately being of so great impor- 
 tance to Europe, that instead of China, the 
 Brazils will be the grand mart for this dearly 
 beloved article. 
 
 The country for a considerable distance 
 round, is peculiarly beautiful; the mountains 
 high and woody ; the vallies perfect gardens ; 
 fruits of the most delicious nature are found 
 here in great abundance, and the orange ap- 
 pears to be a never failing tree ; the quantity 
 
briton's voyage. 13 
 
 of this fruit I have seen exhibited for sale, in 
 the orange market is astonishing, and on the 
 same tree is often to be seen the blossoms, the 
 fruit in its primitive state, some half ripe, and 
 others fit for use. The pine apple is also here, 
 and in great perfection. In the neighbourhood 
 there are several botanical gardens, chiefly be- 
 longing to private individuals. Many plants 
 but rarely to be met with in England, were 
 brought from them in the Briton. 
 The naval department of the Portuguese is 
 not great, but they had commissioned several 
 sail of the line, and "ere we left the port five 
 of them with some frigates and corvettes were 
 ready for sea.— Many others of various classes 
 were moored off the Arsenal, which is of some 
 extent, and situated near the Island of Cobrus. 
 
 The harbour ot Rio de Janeiro is spacious, 
 and was the heat less oppressive, it might be 
 esteemed as one of the most desirable in the 
 the world. There is a breeze from the sea 
 generally about noon, which cools the atmos- 
 phere and renders it in some degree bearable. 
 
 Notwithstanding the entrance is so narrow, 
 the harbour increases to the width of three of 
 four leagues, in which gulf or basin are nume- 
 rous small islands, some of them possessing vil- 
 lages, others gentleman's seats only. The 
 water becomes soon shallow, so that at a small 
 
14 A NARRATIVE OP THE 
 
 distance above the island containing the British 
 Hospital, it is not sufficiently deep for a vessel 
 of any burden to pass : but a great trade is car- 
 ried on by means of large boats. The whole 
 of those islands are very picturesque. 
 
 The district of Braganza situated immediately 
 opposite the city of St. Sebastian, is also very 
 fine, possessing the small town of Braganza 
 and a few villages along the coast. Sir 
 S. Smith has here an estate of considerable 
 extent, which was presented him by the 
 Prince Regent in compliment for the services 
 he had rendered him. 
 
 The water-fall at Tajuca is about eleven 
 miles from the city, and is worthy the notice 
 of a traveller. The fall is not perpendicular, 
 but broken by the massive rocks which project, 
 and which add greatly to its beauty. The 
 scenery around it is romantic and wild, and 
 until you come to the very spot, the noise of 
 the water is the only indication of your being 
 near it. It is about sixty feet high. On the 
 left hand of the entrance to this place, is a mas- 
 sive and overhanging rock, supported only by 
 three small stones, and where are deposited the 
 remains of a monk belonging to one of the 
 monasteries at the city, who in his life con- 
 ceived so great a partiality for this spot, that 
 he requested to be buried there when dead. 
 
briton's voyage. 15 
 
 The tomb is oblong, built of bricks, with 
 two steps leading to it, — bearing no inscrip- 
 tion, but is covered with the names of those 
 people who have been there. Under this place 
 there is a seat for the accomodation of visitors, 
 and also two niches, but for what purpose 
 they were placed there, I cannot ascertain, 
 altho' they evidently appear to have been 
 intended to receive a Bust, Urn, or something 
 of that nature. 
 
 The inhuman and barbarous traffic of slaves, 
 is carried on to the greatest extent it is possible 
 to be imagined, and as the immediate and pri- 
 vate revenue of the Crown, would receive a 
 severe shock by the abolition of so unnatural 
 a barter, there can be, I fear, but little hopes 
 of so desirable an object being speedily effect- 
 ed, without the humanity of the European 
 states turning their recommendations into com- 
 mands, and enforcing compliance, which lam 
 persuaded would be the case were the differ- 
 ent legislators but faintly impressed with the 
 horrors that constantly occur at this place, and 
 the barbarity to which those unhappy people 
 are hourly subjected. — The labour let it be 
 ever so laborious, is performed by slaves, and 
 it is seldom there are more than six apporti- 
 oned to the heaviest burdens. I have fre- 
 quently seen as few as four groaning under 
 
16 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 the weight of a pipe of wine, wK' h they have 
 had to remove through the town. Many of 
 those poor creatures are bred to trades, and are 
 sent out daily or weekly by their masters with 
 orders to bring hi in a certain sum at the expi- 
 ration of that time, and what they can get 
 over they may consider as their own : but 
 they are always so highly rated, that it is with 
 the greatest difficulty they can raise the sum 
 nominated ; and in case ofdefalcation, it is at- 
 tributed to a want of exertion or laziness which 
 subjects the unhappy victim to a punishment, 
 for a crime, the master alone has committed. 
 
 Nothing can be more common than instances 
 of this nature, and as the following was related 
 to me by a respectable British merchant, I can 
 rely on its veracity : — 
 
 '* A man" said he " possessing a few slaves 
 may be considered of good property, particu- 
 larly, if he bought them when young and has 
 brought them up to trades. With a man of 
 this kind I am acquainted, who is as barbarous 
 and remorseless a wretch as can be conceived, 
 he has several slaves and as they have all been 
 taught some trade or other, he sends them forth 
 to earn according to their occupations, certain 
 sums and their food, which must be completed 
 under a penalty (which is seldom remitted even 
 to the most industrious or lucky) of a severe 
 
briton's voyage. 17 
 
 flogging. One of those (continued he) was a 
 barber, and for a considerable period shaved 
 me every morning : he was a quiet man, and of 
 great industry, and, as far as came under my 
 observation, always on the alert for his mas- 
 ter's interest. For several days I observed he 
 bore a gloomy and melancholy appearance. 
 I asked him the reason, and was informed he 
 had been unsuccessful, and could not render 
 to his master the sum required ; that he had 
 little hopes of being able to raise it, and as little 
 doubt of being punished. I gave him some- 
 thing towards it. When he came again, he in- 
 formed me, that out of thirteen or fourteen, he 
 alone had escaped the lash ; but, if he did not 
 make up the deficiency, his would be of greater 
 severity than had been inflicted on his com- 
 panions. 
 
 As the time approached when he must ren- 
 der to his master an account, he became great- 
 ly distressed, and despaired of accomplishing 
 his promise. He went with tears in his eyes, 
 tendered what he had gained, and assured him 
 of having used every means to raise the specific 
 sum, and implored a remission of punishment, 
 or a suspension until the following Monday, 
 which at length was granted him, but not 
 without threats of many additional stripes in 
 case of failure. The time fast approached, 
 
 D 
 
18 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 when he must return. He was still deficient. 
 He reached the door of his master's house, 
 when, in despair of being forgiven, and dread- 
 ing the ordeal he had to undergo, he took 
 from his pocket a razor, and with a desperate 
 hand nearly severed his head from his body. 
 I saw him, several days after, lying in this 
 mangled state near the place, where he had 
 perpetrated it. This horrid deed had no other 
 effect on the master, than to increase his seve- 
 rity towards the others, on whom he imposed 
 heavier burthens, to recompense him for the 
 loss he had so recently sustained. 
 
 I inquired the cause of so many slaves ly- 
 ing dead in the streets, and was assured, that 
 when they were ill and thought past recovery, 
 they were disowned by their masters, to evade 
 the expenses of a funeral, and thrown out of 
 doors, when their miserable lives were soon 
 brought to as miserable a termination. When 
 any of these bodies are found, (which con- 
 stantly occurs,) there is a soldier placed over 
 it with a box, nor is the corpse removed from 
 the spot, until a sufficient sum has been left 
 by the passengers to defray the expenses at- 
 tendant on the interment. I witnessed several 
 instances of this nature during the period we 
 lay in the harbour. The cruelties these un- 
 happy people are subjected to, is more calcu- 
 
briton's voyage. IS 
 
 lated to fill a volume, than to be brought with- 
 in the narrow compass of so small a work as 
 this ; and, I am sorry to say, the Europeans, of 
 whatever nation, instead of setting a humane 
 example to wretches whose hearts had been 
 long callous to every feeling of sensibility, 
 vie with each other in minutely imitating their 
 unfeeling conduct. 
 
 On the 28th of March, every thing being 
 ready for sea, we expected to sail with our 
 charge; but some intelligence of importance 
 having been received from the Pacific Ocean, 
 the Fort William was detained, and we, instead 
 of doubling the Cape of Good Hope, were 
 ordered into the colder region of Cape Horn, 
 round which I shall hope to lead the reader 
 early in the next chapter. 
 
 RECEIVED: 
 
 ■ 
 
20 A NARRATIVE OF THL 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 All communication with the shore having 
 ceased, we discovered the object of our voyage 
 to the South Sea, to be the United States frigate 
 Essex, which had done considerable injury to 
 our whale-fishery, and was then, according to 
 the best information, refitting in the port of 
 Valparaiso. 
 
 From the season being so far advanced, we 
 had every reason to anticipate an inclement 
 and boisterous passage round Cape Horn; but, 
 by the pleasing hope at all times so fondly 
 cherished by British sailors, of gaining glory in 
 so remote a region, the storms were conquered 
 'ere they came, and in imagination we were al- 
 ready at the entrance of the wished-for port. 
 
 The wind from the south-east, which may 
 be almost deemed periodical, had commenced, 
 which greatly prolonged our voyage, inso- 
 much that it was not before the 3d of May 
 we got into 62° 33' south latitude, when a 
 strong breeze from the pole soon wafted us 
 by the inhospitable shores of Terra del Fuego 
 to the coast of Chili. It will be hardlv ne- 
 
briton's voyage. 21 
 
 cessary for me to inform the reader, that in so 
 high a latitude we found the cold excessive, 
 and the weather tempestuous. Thermometer 
 at 23°. During the whole of the 2d, the 
 wind blew with such violence, that we found it 
 impossible to set the smallest sail; and the sea 
 bore a more terrific appearance than I had ever 
 before seen, or wish again to witness. We 
 did not see any ice, nor had we any snow sub- 
 sequent to passing the coast of Patagonia ; but 
 rain in abundance, and, unfortunately, the 
 men were badly supplied with warm clothing, 
 which occasioned in the sick-list a frightful 
 augmentation. As we proceeded to the south- 
 ward, the common sea-gull became scarce; and 
 before we reached the latitude of the Falkland 
 Islands, they had wholly disappeared, and 
 were succeeded by birds of beauteous plumage, 
 called by navigators " Pigeon de mer." Those 
 increased in number as we approached the pole, 
 and left us again in the Pacific Ocean, when 
 they were replaced by a species considerably 
 larger, and quite black. About the latitude of 
 43° south, we were joined by some albatrosses 
 of great size, but they did not continue with 
 us long. 
 
 We made the land near the island of Chiloe, 
 and, after passing the island of Mocho, and ex- 
 periencing variable winds, arrived at Valpa- 
 
522 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 raiso on the 21st of May, where we found the 
 object of our pursuit a prize to his Majesty's 
 ships, the Phoebe and Cherub, and preparing 
 to sail for England. The Tagus was also 
 there. 
 
 Our men, from so long a passage, and being 
 so much exposed, added to the great want of 
 warm clothing, were become very sickly, in- 
 somuch that the surgeon's list was increased 
 to 109; but, being abundantly supplied with 
 every species of provision, and the most marked 
 attention being paid to their comfort, it was 
 soon reduced to a comparatively small number. 
 Thermometer from 48° to o9°. Our refit was 
 hastened as much as possible; and on the 10th 
 day from our arrival, after taking on board a 
 number of the Loyalist party, who had been 
 prisoners in Chili, we sailed in company with 
 the Phoebe, her prize, and the Tagus : the two 
 former being bound round Cape Horn, we 
 parted from them off the island of Juan Fer- 
 nandez, and proceeded, in company with the 
 Tagus, to Callao, the port of Lima, where 
 we arrived in fourteen days, and had ten days' 
 relaxation. During this period, we received 
 frequent visits from the Limanians, who arc 
 passionately fond of aquatic excursions, and 
 shew great interest when the object in view 
 is a British man of war. On our part, we 
 
BRITONS VOYAGE. 23 
 
 made frequent parties to the great city, and to 
 an eminent degree experienced the hospitality 
 of its inhabitants. The ladies being pretty, 
 and possessing a more than ordinary share of 
 interesting vivacity, we were led so impercep- 
 tibly to the period of departure, that it had 
 arrived 'ere we could have hoped it had half 
 elapsed. Thermometer from 64° to 68° (on 
 board) ; on shore at 80°. 
 
 I am aware it may be expected I should here 
 give some account of this famous city, and I 
 should do so, had we not returned to it again, 
 when I had a greater opportunity, not only of 
 making personal observations, but of collecting 
 a great many materials necessary for that pur-* 
 pose : I shall therefore crave the indulgence of 
 postponing it for a while, and in the interim I 
 will take a brief view of the ports we touched 
 at along the coast, as well as the Gallipago 
 Islands. 
 
 Leaving the anchorage of Callao, (June 26,) 
 and sailing along the coast, which at times 
 presented a pleasing or dreary aspect, accord- 
 ing as it became more or less cultivated or 
 inhabited, we arrived at Paita, on the 2d of 
 July ; a place of little consequence, although 
 rendered of great historical celebrity, by the 
 unseasonable visit paid it by Lord Anson, 
 during his voyage in 1740, and whose name 
 
24 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 we found still familiar among several of the 
 families, whose ancestors he so ingeniously 
 (and without ceremony too) unloaded of their 
 cash. Soon after we had anchored, the gover- 
 nor, and a long tatterdemalion retinue, came 
 off to wait upon the captain; and while they 
 are looking at the ship, I will take a peep into 
 the town, which is situated in latitude 5° 16' S. 
 and in longitude 81° W. under a dry, barren, 
 and sterile cliff, and consists of two or three 
 rows of wretched houses, built of mud and bam- 
 boo, principally without roofs, and the most 
 magnificent among them only covered with a 
 thin hollow matting : however, this may with 
 ease be accounted for, as Paita is situated with- 
 in that latitude on the coast of Peru, where it 
 was never known to rain. The interior parts 
 of the houses present a very miserable appear- 
 ance ; yet, I was assured, the inhabitants were 
 very wealthy. The east end of the church 
 alone was covered, like the houses, with a 
 coarse matting. There are four bells attached 
 to it, and are hung at a little distance on a 
 frame of wood, resembling an English gibbet. 
 The internal part of this sanctuary, as may be 
 supposed, afforded nothing to describe. 
 
 On a little eminence to the south of the 
 town, is a small battery, calculated to, and 
 
briton's voyage. <c5 
 
 mounting eight long brass pieces of ordnance, 
 which are so badly equipped that I think is 
 probable they would not stand a second dis- 
 charge. This place is badly supplied with 
 water, nor do I imagine it possible for shipp- 
 ing to procure any quantity adequate to their 
 consumption, without great difficulty. The 
 country for many leagues is barren, and un- 
 cultivated. Piura is the nearest town, in 
 whose jurisdiction it is. 
 
 In the afternoon, the b overnor, chief officers, 
 and families, to the number of a score, came 
 off to a dinner, which the captain had prepared 
 for them, when those people, who in the morn- 
 ing appeared in as great a state of destitution 
 as their houses, were clad in the most fantastic 
 and costly attire. Some of them had even 
 been resolute enough to shave themselves. 
 The old priest, who besides his spiritual situa- 
 tion, kept a considerable shop, wishing to 
 make hay while the sun-shone, brought off 
 with him a bale of Guayaquil hats, one of 
 which I bartered for an old pair of silk stock- 
 ings, being more esteemed than money, but 
 I do not imagine he found a very brisk sale. 
 
 The fashion for the ladies to go without 
 pockets, was clearly proved, not to have reached 
 this place, for the captains steward having 
 missed some plate, and fancying he saw one 
 
 E 
 
£6 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 of the ladies in treaty with a silver knife, he 
 took the liberty ol requesting* to examine hers, 
 where, to her great confusion, some of the 
 articles were found ; but it may be urged in 
 extenuation of her fault, that Lord Anson, at 
 his visit there, had played a trick or two on 
 the family, from whom she was descended. 
 
 We sailed the same night, still keeping close 
 to the shore, and passing the Islands of Lobus 
 de Mar and Terra, arrived off the river Tum- 
 biz, where we anchored and remained three 
 days, cut a large quantity of wood on an Island 
 in a small creek, a little to the northward of 
 the river: we found some foxes here and took 
 two. There is a bar crossing the entrance of 
 the river Tumbiz, which renders it difficult, 
 and at times, rather dangerous for boats to 
 cross ; notwithstanding ships can be supplied 
 with water which is of very good quality. It 
 was on this place a boat belonging to the 
 Phcebe was upset, which occasioned the death 
 of Lieut. Jago, and the Purser, but whether 
 they were drowned or eaten by the Alligators 
 is uncertain. Several of these frightful 
 creatures were seen next morning basking 
 themselves in the sun, and both these gentle- 
 men being good swimmers, one may be led to 
 conclude they reached the shore only to die a 
 more wretched death. This ferocious animal, 
 
briton's voyage. - 27 
 
 as it is said by naturalists, continues to grow 
 while it lives, and those I saw were of different 
 sizes, from six to eighteen .feet. One often 
 feet long was shot. They are of a dark green 
 color, with large and almost impenetrable 
 scales, and, although in opposition to the opin- 
 ion of many writers who have treated on the 
 subject, 1 believe of considerable bravery. 
 
 The town of Tumbiz, at a small distance 
 from the mouth of the river, is of inconsider- 
 able extent, although of some celebrity in the 
 history of Peru, from its having been one of 
 the last towns subjected by the Incas, and the 
 place where Pizarro and his companions in 
 their first expedition landed. 1 In their second 
 expedition, -they again visited Tumbiz, and 
 formed their first settlement St Michael 2 on 
 the river Piura. After Huayna Capac the 
 eleventh Inca, had brought this province under 
 his subjection, which was effected without 
 much opposition, he dedicated a temple to the 
 sun, a most stately and magnificent temple, 
 the iemains of which I have been informed, 
 are still visible. At the distance of a few 
 leagues to the north, is the river and town of 
 Guayaquil, where terminate the kingdom of 
 
 1 Garcillcso De la Vega, book 9, Chapter 2: 
 
 2 Robertsons history of America, book 6, page 125, 
 
28 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 Peru ; Guayaquil being in the district and Vice- 
 royalty of Qui to. 
 
 We next visited St. Helena, a place of little 
 importance, and remarkable only for the high 
 point of land, which has every appearance of 
 being an Island, until you are within a small 
 distance of the shore. On a sandy beach to 
 the northward of the point, is a small town, 
 whose inhabitants are chiefly natives of the 
 country. The houses being nothing but 
 frames or skeletons, and having no high land 
 behind them, appear rather extraordinary. 
 The floor on which the people live, is about 
 six or eight feet from the ground, and the lad- 
 der by which they ascend, is always drawn up 
 at night, otherwise they would run great risk 
 of being bit by serpents which infest the place, 
 and whose bite is venomous. This reptile is 
 very small, and nearly a yard in length, I saw 
 but one. We took a few fish here, and like- 
 wise procured a few boat-load of water. 
 
 We now steered to the Island of Plata, which 
 to our great surprise, we found destitute of 
 water, and, although possessed of some wood, 
 it was not to begot at but with so much dif- 
 ficulty, that we left it and proceeded to the 
 Island ofSalango, between which and the Main 
 we anchored, where we found both the above 
 articles in great abundance, prom the surf 
 
briton's voyage. 29 
 
 being continual and exceedingly violent, it is 
 necessary to land the casks and raft them off 
 to the ship. The water is rather muddy, but 
 soon settles and is very good. There are only 
 two houses here, built similar to those of St. 
 Helena, and are occupied by a family of the 
 natives of the country. In this neighbourhood 
 there are some tigers, and the serpents are of a 
 considerable size as well as venomous. 
 
 Having now completed the ships with 
 water, we left the coast of America for the 
 purpose of examining the group of Islands 
 known by the name of the Gallipagos, and on 
 the 25th July, arrived at Charles Island, and 
 anchored in an harbour sufficiently commodious 
 to contain a very considerable force. This Is- 
 land is perfectly barren, and excepting the 
 prickly peach tree, which grows to an immense 
 size, and a few bushes along the beach, there 
 is no appearance of the least vegetation. There 
 are the craters of several old volcanoes, but I 
 did not perceive the trace of any recent erup- 
 tion. Guanas we found here in great abund- 
 ance, and notwithstanding their disgusting 
 appearance, they were eaten by many of the 
 sailors, who esteemed them as most delicious 
 food. We found also a great many small birds 
 resembling, but more diminutive than the wood 
 pigeon. They were so exceedingly tame, that 
 
30 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 many were taken without the least attempt to 
 escape, and when a stone or stick was thrown, 
 it was seldom they flew away, but remained 
 until struck or killed. This Island is often 
 visited by great quantities of seals. We found 
 but few tortoises and no water. Tarrying here 
 one day, we proceeded to Chatham Island, 
 which excepting a small isthmus, where the 
 volcanoes have not extended their ravages, is 
 a perfect body of black lava. Here we were 
 fortunate in our search for tortoises, and took 
 more than a hundred, among them were 
 several weighing upwards of 370 lbs. Amongst 
 the grass on the isthmus, we took some land 
 tortoise. One of these cieatures greatly ex- 
 ceeded the others in size, and as the progress 
 this species make in growing, is particularly 
 slow, I am led to conclude it to have been of a 
 great age. From its having been taken at this 
 Island, the sailors whimsically bestowed on it 
 the name of Lord Chatham. It soon lost its 
 natural shyness, became much petted among 
 the crew, and latterly, was in regular attend- 
 ance in the galley at the hour of meals, when 
 it partook of the ships allowance, and was fed 
 by the men either out of their hands or some 
 of their utensils, but notwithstanding, every 
 care was taken, its life could not be preserved in 
 the excessive cold, of a high southern latitude. 
 

 
eriton's voyage. 31 
 
 The Kicker rock, stands in the center of this 
 anchorage, and has a most extraordinary ap- 
 pearance. In our search for water here as at 
 Charles Island, we were unsuccessful. 
 
 At James's Island we found a good anchor- 
 age, a considerable quantity of wood, and at 
 the foot of an exceedingly high and remarkable 
 mountain, a small stream of water, near which 
 is the remains of the hut of an unfortunate 
 Spaniard, who was left there by his compan- 
 ions., and where he remained nearly two years. 
 Land tortoises are found here in great abund- 
 ance, whose meat being very fine, we found it 
 a great relief from salt provisions. The num- 
 ber of guanas we saw here, can alone be con- 
 ceived ; they had regular burrows, and were 
 much more plentiful than I have ever seen rab- 
 bits in a preserve in this country. They are 
 of a light red color, about two to three feet 
 long, and when pursued, do not like those at 
 Charles Island, take to the water. Among; 
 some green bushes near the beach, is the tomb 
 of Lieut. Cowen, of the United States Frigate, 
 Essex, who fell in a duel with Mr. Gamble of 
 that ship. That this unfortunate young man 
 was much esteemed by his brother officers, is 
 evident from the great respect they paid to his 
 memory. The thermometer in the shade, at 
 SS° on board, and on shore also in the -hade, 
 at 95°. 
 
32 A NARRATIVE OF T&E 
 
 Albermarle Island, the most extensive of 
 this group, is nearly covered by the numerous 
 volcanic eruptions, which appear to have re- 
 cently taken place. It possesses no fresh water, 
 but the numerous plants and shrubs would, to 
 a botanist, be a source of infinite gratification. 
 Many of those plants, and which are exceed- 
 ingly beautiful, grow immediately from solid 
 lumps of black lava, not having the least ap- 
 pearance of possessing any thing sufficiently 
 nutritious, or at all calculated to support a 
 shrub in so high a state of vegetation. I re- 
 moved one on board, and although a very con- 
 siderable quantity of the lava was taken with 
 it, it died immediately. It had a leaf re- 
 sembling velvet, and when broken, an abund- 
 ance of milky juice of a strong astringent 
 nature issued. This plant was very odorous. 
 There are some small birds here, also lizards 
 and grasshoppers, the latter are of great size as 
 well as beauty. 
 
 Norborough Island, vies with the others in 
 its dark, gloomy, and mountainous appearance. 
 Itis covered with volcanoes, and two were burn- 
 ing when we passed it. This Island does not 
 possess fresh water, or vegetation. There is 
 a very strong and continual current or indraft 
 towards this group, which I suppose supplies 
 the numerous volcanoes, with which they col- 
 lectively abound. 
 
briton's voyage. S3 
 
 Our examination of these Islands occupied 
 us ten days, when we again put to sea, and af- 
 ter a short voyage arrived at the more pleas- 
 ing, as well as interesting, group of the Mar- 
 quesas. 
 
 ssn 
 
34 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 We had departed from those gloomy Is- 
 lands/ere we perceived it to be the intention of 
 Sir Thomas Staines to visit the Marquesas; 
 but the course he ordered the ship to be steer- 
 ed, soon demonstrated his object, and on the 
 14th day, subsequent to our departure from Nar- 
 borough, we arrived atNovaheevah, or SirHenry 
 Martyn's Island, having run in that period a dis- 
 tance exceeding 3,000 miles. At our approach 
 to Port Anna Maria, it became almost a calm, 
 when we were met by a boat, apparently Euro- 
 pean, which proved to have belonged to one of 
 the whalers taken by the United States Frigate 
 Essex, and now in possession of Wilson, a 
 native of England, who having left an English 
 merchant ship about ten years before, remained 
 there ever since. It was necessary to anchor 
 off the entrance for the night, and early next 
 morning, availing ourselves of the sea breeze, 
 w entered this delighful harbour, when w r e 
 anchored in a small bay, which Captain David 
 Porter, of the United States Navy, had occu- 
 pied, and on an adjacent mountain had thrown 
 up some works for his protection, of which, in 
 
briton's voyage. 35 
 
 the course of this chapter, I shall have to treat 
 more largely. 
 
 We were now informed by Wilson, that our 
 appearance off the Island, had been the occasion 
 of considerable alarm, and that the Natives, 
 (dreading it to be the return of Captain Por- 
 ter, who, doubtless, would have taken ample 
 vengeance for the fate of those of his men, 
 whom they had stoned to death, in retaliation 
 for the brutal conduct he exemplified towards 
 them, during his stay in the Port ;) had deserted 
 the Valley, and were seeking safety by flight ; 
 but on finding our ship to be of another nation, 
 they soon returned, and at our approach, the 
 shore was crowded, each waving a branch of 
 the palm tree as a signal of friendship. 
 
 As the first boat drew near the shore, about 
 thirty of the natives ran into the water to re- 
 ceive her, which was done with so much dex- 
 terity and strength, that she was carried bodily 
 upon the beach, without giving any of the crew 
 sufficient time to quit her. This had a much 
 prettier effect than I can well describe, and I 
 was infinitely more pleased at beholding such 
 a demonstration of friendship, than I possibly 
 could have been at experiencing it. 
 
 The Captain now waited on the King in 
 form, who received him with great kindness and 
 made every friendly profer of assistance. His 
 Majesty after having asked how many pigs, 
 
36 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 bread-fruit, and cocoa nuts we wanted, solicit- 
 ed to know the number of ladies both ships 
 would require, because he was doubtful his 
 valley would be deficient, and in which case, he 
 would send to a neighbouring kingdom for 
 a supply. His politeness was fully appreciat- 
 ed, and I believe, there are few Royal Per- 
 sonages of the present day who would be 
 more accommodating, or give to their friend- 
 ship a greater latitude. 
 
 The first ceremony being over, — a friendship 
 established, — and the intercouse with the na- 
 tives becoming unrestricted, each successive 
 daywas productive of something new; but'ere I 
 proceed to the relation, it may not be improper 
 for the information of those of my readers who 
 are not adepts in geography, if I take a brief 
 view of the local situation of the Island, which 
 is one of the most considerable, as well as fer- 
 tile, among the group lying within the Lati- 
 tude of 8° and 10° south, and in longitude 
 ]S8° lo'to 140° 25 'west, and discovered by 
 Don Alvera Mendana de Neyra, in the year 
 1595, who named them jointly, the Marquesas, 
 in compliment to Mendoca Marquis de Canete, 
 the then viceroy of Peru, under whose auspices 
 he had been sent out on a voyage of discovery. 
 Subsequent to this period, they have been often 
 visited by ships of different nations, and it has 
 been asserted that Ingraham, an American, 
 
sriton's voyage. 37 
 
 was the first who discovered Novaheevah, and 
 from which, I am inclined to suppose, Captain 
 Porter's pompous and ridiculous claim to pri- 
 ority of discovery is founded : but the Islands 
 Ingraham seen, appear to be those mentioned 
 by the French Navigator, Le Merchand, and 
 which are situated at a small distance to the 
 north west of the Marquesas. 
 
 Novaheevah, the signification of which I 
 could not ascertain, received from Lieut. Her- 
 gest, the name of Sir Henry Marty n's Island, 
 and by which it is now generally known. 
 
 This island, as I have already said, is not 
 only more extensive than the others, but also 
 of greater fertility. It is divided into several 
 districts or valiies, each containing from 1.500 
 to 2000 people, with an hereditary King at- 
 tached to each. These Tribes or Nations are 
 frequently at war with each other, but I believe 
 seldom come to a general battle, and which 
 is as seldom sanguinary ; still the mode they 
 pursue, may be productive of greater calamity 
 than the loss of a few slain, for they frequently 
 go by night into a neighbouring district, 
 and destroy the bark from every bread-fruit,* 
 or Cocoa-nut tree they meet with, which 
 
 * After the bread-fruit tree has been thus treated, it is 
 free years' ere it will again bear fruit. . 
 
3S A NARRATIVE OP THE 
 
 being their general food, a ravage of this kind is 
 certain to involve the unfortunate district in 
 want for several subsequent years; insomuch 
 that its inhabitants become dependant on the 
 adjoining villages for subsistence. In the seve- 
 ral kingdoms of the Pytees, Haupaws, and 
 Typees, I saw an excceeding number of trees 
 which had undergone this barbarous operation, 
 and from whence many of the inhabitants had 
 not only been obliged to remove, but to solicit 
 the aid of their neighbours. 
 
 Port Anna Maria, or the bay of Tuhuouy, 
 forms one of the most considerable districts of 
 which the natives call themselves Pytees— be- 
 yond the mountains are the Haupaws, and those 
 inhabiting the Valley in Comptroller's Bay, are 
 called Typees, who are said to be the most 
 wailike in the Island, as well as being a species 
 of the Anthropophagi, but I am yet to learn, 
 how they gained this unnatural reputation, 
 for when I made an incursion into the interior 
 of their country, I could not perceive the least 
 trace of cannibility among them, or aught, to 
 authorize my drawing so horrible a conclusion. 
 The manners and customs of those tribes, resem- 
 ble each other in every thing, but, perhaps, 
 those of the valley of Tuhuouy are the most ci- 
 vilized, as it is a Port where ships occasionally 
 touch for the purpose of procuring Sandle 
 wood for the market of Canton. 
 
briton's voyace. 39 
 
 This place is surrounded by a ridge of moun- 
 tains of almost inaccessible height, forming the 
 boundary of the kingdom, which is divided 
 and subdivided into villages or districts, each 
 having a chief, tributary to the king, who is at 
 all times ready to lead his warriors to battle at 
 the sound of the conch. Every kingdom has 
 a chief priest, and to each of the divisions a 
 subordinate one, who are much respected, and 
 ever held in the greatest veneration. 
 
 Their religion, as well as their mode of per- 
 forming it, appears to differ but little from the 
 description given in the appendix to the Mis- 
 sionary voyage to the Society Islands, excepting 
 that of offering human sacrifices to their Eatooa 
 or God. I could not find that this custom had 
 ever been in practice here ; if it had, it must 
 have been very ancient, for it did not form any 
 part of their numerous traditionary stories. 
 The Eatooa appears throughout these Islands, 
 to be the superior deity, but they have many 
 of inferior note, and amongst them I remarked 
 Fatu-aitapoo, and two or three others resem- 
 bling in sound those mentioned in the Mis- 
 sionary voyage, (page 143) but the one here 
 mentioned , alone corresponded exactly. Every 
 family have also a deity of their own, taken 
 from an illustrious relative whom they suppose 
 has from his virtue, or great actions, become 
 
40 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 an Eatooa. To him they dedicate images cut 
 out of wood, and although the figures are un- 
 couthly represented, they are very ingenious. 
 These are sacred, and principally used for the 
 tops of crutches, or stilts, as they are supersti- 
 tious enough to suppose, that when they rest on 
 these images they will be secure from injury ; 
 and if by accident they are unfortunate enough 
 to stumble,it is seldom they livelong afterwards; 
 for if the Priest cannot satisfactorily appease 
 the anger of the Tutelar Eatooa, they fancy 
 they labor under his displeasure, and with an 
 unequalled resignation and calmness starve 
 themselves to death. 
 
 In the performance of all ceremonies, they 
 exemplify the greatest devotion, nor do they at 
 any time approach a place sacred to the Eatooa 
 without the most marked respect. The wo- 
 men uncovering their bosoms, the men remov- 
 ing their hats. Of the evil demon or Veheen6 
 ihee they have but little dread, being firmly 
 persuaded that after the soul has taken its de- 
 parture from the body, it will enjoy a rank 
 among their Eatooas in another world, accord- 
 ing as its life has been good or bad in this. 
 Nothing can exceed their superstition ; they 
 are constantly seeing Atoowas, or Ghosts, and 
 in their sleep, even, they fancy the soul leaves 
 the body to repose among its kindred spirits. 
 
briton's voyage. 41 
 
 The morais, or burial places at this place, 
 are greatly inferior to what I was led to expect, 
 as from the description of several navigators I 
 anticipated something exceedingly handsome, 
 but they consist merely of a large heap of 
 stones, very irregularly piled, having on the 
 top a small house for the purpose of receiving 
 the remains of the King, his family, or those of 
 the principal Chiefs; the sacrifices are also 
 made here, and from the place being Tabooed, 
 or rendered sacred, the women, who labor un- 
 der great restriction, are precluded from going 
 to, or even touching it, under the heavy penalty 
 of death. Their regret at the loss of a friend 
 is demonstrated in various ways, and are borne 
 away by the most opposite and sudden gusts of 
 passion, and if a woman be weeping over a 
 dead child (for they are very affectionate) you 
 may expect (as I was informed) her sorrow to 
 be turned intojoy, and that she will be laugh- 
 ing with a glee equal to her former grief; but 
 nothing of this nature came immediately under 
 my notice. 
 
 Their places of public assembly, are much 
 superior to themoiais, and are generally exten- 
 sive enough within to contain 1000, or 1200 
 people. This spot is also tabooed, and conse- 
 quently the ladies, whose interference in any 
 political matter is never allowed, are prohibited 
 
 G 
 
42 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 visiting it, under the penalty I have before men- 
 tioned. The most spacious as well as elegant 
 of these, is in the kingdom of the Typees. 
 
 The exchanging names, or becoming a bro- 
 ther with a chief, or native, seems to be a 
 general custom, and indeed there can be no 
 greater advantage to a stranger, for when an 
 adoption of this nature takes place, the chief 
 considers his Tayo, or brother, equally with 
 himself, entitled to what his house, or district 
 affords, and his people pay him the same res- 
 pect. Patookee, a chief of great celebrity, 
 solicited a Tayoship with me, to which I ac- 
 ceded, when he placed on my head his own hat 
 as a token of friendship. It is of a simple 
 structure, made from the leaf of the palm tree, 
 but I shall ever hold it in the greatest estima- 
 tion. The benefit I derived from my new 
 connection was incalculable — he was in con- 
 stant attendance, and seldom came without 
 offering me presents. From this Tayo there 
 is nothing withheld, even the most favorite la- 
 dy would be ceded with the greatest compla* 
 cency. The reader will, I doubt not, imagine 
 where female chastity is so little esteemed, and 
 of no recommendation to the sex, there can be 
 but a small portion of the affection of a father, 
 a husband, or a friend. The wife too, he may 
 suppose, is equally callous to every feeling of 
 
briton's voyage. 43 
 
 sensibility : — but I can assure him, an impres- 
 sion of this kind would be very erroneous, for 
 I am firmly persuaded, notwithstanding their 
 readiness to deliver their wives, or daughters, 
 into the embraces of strangers, they possess to 
 an eminent degree the finest feelings of friend- 
 ship. I have often seen the men fondling and 
 hugging their children with as great appear- 
 ance of affection, as can well be described, and 
 that the women are impressed with the strong- 
 est attachment for their immediate Lords, the 
 circumstance 1 am about to adduce will be suf- 
 ficient to prove : — Lieut. Bennet, of the 
 Royal Marines, took for his Tayo a young 
 man of an exceedingly interesting and pene- 
 trating countenance, in stature manly, and 
 whose wife also possessed more than ordinary 
 beauty. From the attention shewn him, he 
 conceived a desire to visit England, and was, I 
 believe, promised permission should be granted 
 him. His intention was soon communicated 
 to his wife, who an evening or two after, when 
 we were walking on the beach, came up to us 
 in the most frantic and wild manner, talking 
 with unequalled rapidity, but not a word could 
 we distinguish but "Vahana Picatanee" or hus- 
 band to England. She cried and laughed al» 
 ternately, tore her hair — beat her breast*— 
 lay down on the ground — danced, sang, and 
 
44 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 at length in a paroxysm of despair, cut herself 
 in several places with a shark's tooth, which 
 until then she had concealed, nor could 
 we disarm her 'ere she had done herself consi- 
 derable injury. She was still frantic, and we 
 still ignorant of the cause, and should have re- 
 mained so, had not Otaheitean Jack* arrived, 
 who informed us, when we assured her, 
 her fears were vain, and that her husband 
 should not be permitted to go from the Island 
 without her leave. This had the desired effect, 
 and she soon became as placid and cheerful as 
 ever ; nor did she appear to notice the wounds 
 she had inflicted. There were several specta- 
 tors to this affecting scene, which clearly 
 proved that the natives of this remote region, 
 although in a perfect state of nature, are nei- 
 ther destitute of feelings nor affection. Old 
 age is no where more respected or revered than 
 here. 
 
 I am decidedly of opinion that the custom 
 of having plurality of wives is confined to the 
 chiefs alone, and that the people in general are 
 constant to one, and in this I am supported by 
 the opinion of Crook, the Missionary, who 
 says, speaking of the Island of St. Christina, 
 
 * A Native of Otaheite, who had beep taught a lit- 
 tle English by the Missionaries. 
 
45 
 
 (M. V. page 144) "Observing a pregnant wo- 
 man I asked her how many children she had? 
 She replied three. I wished to know if they 
 were by the same man ? she said yes. I ask- 
 ed farther if he had any other wife ? she said no. 
 Whence L am led to believe that though 
 Tenae* has more wives than one, this is not 
 usual, and may be the privilege of the chief." 
 The continuation of this paragraph, tends 
 greatly to strengthen what I have already said, 
 relative to their affection, for says he, "They 
 seem to be very fond of their children, and 
 when I went up to the valley, I saw the men 
 often dandling them upon their knees, exactly 
 as I have observed an old grandfather with us in 
 a country village." 
 
 The Nooaheevahans, like most of those of the 
 other Islands, have no regular meals, nor are 
 the women employed in any part of the cook- 
 ery, except for themselves, and are prohibited 
 from eating at all of the hog, notwithstanding 
 they are very fond of it, for those who came on 
 board ate of it most voraciously. They do not 
 eat much at a time, but their meals are fre- 
 quent, and their dishes consist chiefly of the 
 bread-fruit roasted, fish, which they eat raw, 
 Ahee-nuts, a root resembling the yam, beatin- 
 
 * Chief or King in the Island of Christina, by whom 
 Crook the Missionary was patronized. 
 
46 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 to a paste, and roast pork. Poultry they have 
 also, but in no great abundance, nor did they 
 appear to like its meat. These articles are 
 generally served up in calabash, or cocoa-nut 
 shells — their knives are made from the outside 
 of bamboo, and their forks of the same materi- 
 als, but resembling a wooden skewer. These 
 instruments are seldom used, but for the first 
 separation. It is rarely they employ them- 
 selves at work, and excepting a few old men, 
 who were making nets, or canoes, I never saw 
 any. 
 
 The clothing, or dress of these people is very 
 simple, the men having nothing but the ame or 
 girdle of cloth round their waist, which is 
 passed between their legs and neatly secured 
 in front. They have also a hat made from the 
 palm tree, the simplicity of which gives an in- 
 teresting finish to their manly statures. They 
 are excessively fond of ear ornaments, the men 
 making theirs from sea shells, or a light wood, 
 •which by the application of an earth, becomes 
 beautifully white. The women prefer flowers, 
 and which at all seasons are to be found. 
 Whales teeth, are held in so much estimation 
 that a good one is considered equal to the 
 greatest property ; they are generally in the 
 possession of the Chiefs, who wear them sus- 
 pended round their neck. Their other species 
 
briton's voyage. 47 
 
 of dress consists of a kind of Coronet, ingeni- 
 ously made from a light wood, on which is fas- 
 tened, by means of the rosin from the bread- 
 fruit tree, small red berries; a great quantity 
 of feathers give the finish. The ruff worn 
 round the neck, is made of the same materials, 
 Added to these are large bunches of human 
 hair, tied round the ancles, wrist, or neck, and 
 always worn in battle, though seldom other- 
 wise. Tattooing is evidently considered 
 among them a species of dress, a man without 
 it being held in the greatest contempt. The 
 women are not exposed as much as the men, 
 and their tattooing is very inconsiderable. 
 Their dress consists of a piece of cloth round 
 their waists, answering to a short petticoat, 
 and a mantle, which being tied on the left 
 shoulder, and crossing the bosom, rests on the 
 right hip, and hangs negligently as low as the 
 knee, or calf of the leg, as it may accord with 
 the taste of the lady. Their hair is generally 
 black, but worn in different ways, some long, 
 and turned up — others short. They are ali 
 fond of adorning their persons with flowers, 
 and many of the wreaths are formed with such 
 elegant simplicity, that does not contribute a 
 little to their personal appearance, which is at 
 all times particularly interesting; the beauty 
 of their features being only equalled by the 
 symmetry of their figures. They are of a 
 
48 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 bright copper colour, and in the cheeks of 
 those who were requested to refrain from a- 
 nointing themselves with oil, and the roots of 
 trees, the crimson die was \ery conspicuous. 
 In their early visits to the ship, they swam off, 
 and as their clothes are not calculated to stand 
 the water, they left them on the beach ; but 
 they never neglected taking with them a few 
 leaves to tie round their waists. In this state 
 of nature would they daily exhibit themselves, 
 and too without suspecting, or being in the 
 least degree conscious they were offering the 
 most trivial offence to modesty. " Our first 
 visitors," say the Missionary Voyages, "came 
 off early from the shore ; they were seven 
 beautiful young women, swimming quite nak- 
 ed, except a few leaves round their middle ; 
 they kept playing round the ship for three 
 hours, calling Waheine, until several of the 
 men came on board ; one of whom being the 
 Chief of the Island, requested that his sister 
 might be taken on board, which was complied 
 with: she was of a fair complexion, inclining 
 to a healthy yellow, with a tint of red on her 
 cheek, was rather stout, but possessing such 
 symmetry of features, as did all her compani- 
 ons, that as models of Statuary and Painture 
 their equal can seldom be found. Our 
 Otaheitean girl who was tolerably fair, and had 
 a comely person, was, notwithstanding, greatly. 
 
briton's voyage. 49 
 
 eclipsed by these women, and I believe felt her 
 inferiority in no small degree however, she 
 was superior in the amiableness of her manners 
 and possessed more of the softness and tender 
 feeling of the sex : she was ashamed to see a 
 woman upon the deck quite naked, and sup- 
 plied her with a complete dress of newOtahei- 
 tean cloth, which set her off to great advan- 
 tage, and encouraged those in the water, 
 whose numbers were greatly increased, to im- 
 portune for admission ; and out of pity to 
 them, as we saw they would not return, we 
 took them on board, but they were in a mea- 
 sure disappointed, for they could not succeed so 
 well as the first in getting clothed ; nor did the 
 mischievous goats even suffer them to keep 
 their green leaves, but as they turned to avoid 
 them they were attacked on each side alter- 
 nately, and completely stripped naked. " 
 
 I must confess, when I read this paragraph, 
 notwithstanding the respectibility of the au- 
 thority, 1 was rather inclined to be incredu- 
 lous, but 'ere we had been at anchor many 
 hours, a similar circumstance took place, and 
 afterwards several others, and to which i was 
 an eye witness. 
 
 Tattooing, orPatekee, is considered a great 
 mark of distinction, the pain being of infinite 
 accuteness, it shews what they are capable of 
 
 H 
 
50 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 undergoing. There are many on whom it has 
 been performed so often, that not a spot of their 
 natural colour is seen to remain. Some are 
 most fantastically done, although with great 
 taste, and if it be possible, straight lines are 
 always avoided. Those who are marked only 
 sufficient to shew 'the class they belong to r 
 are of the inferior order, or toutous, and have, 
 perhaps, a fish, a bird, or something of little 
 consequence, represented on one side of the 
 face. The women, as I have before observed, 
 are so little marked in this way that it seldom 
 exceeds a hand, or a few fingers. The lips- of 
 many are streaked, and this is principally seen 
 with those who are married, or have children, 
 but it is not as many suppose a general rule 
 among the married. The men are tall, well 
 formed, muscular, and manly ; possessing a 
 great portion of vivacity and penetration ; in- 
 somuch that for a people of whose language I 
 was ignorant, 1 had less pains in making them 
 understand me than any I ever met with. They 
 took notice of every thing they saw, and I be- 
 lieve no one came on board who did not mea- 
 sure the length of the ship, and count the 
 nnmber of guns, masts, decks, &c. 
 
 Their amusements are principally in dancing, 
 swimming, and wrestling; throwing their ja- 
 velins, and slinging stones, in the whole of 
 
eriton's voyage. ,51 
 
 which they are great proficients. Their arms 
 consist of clubs, of which there are two kinds, 
 the carved, and the plain, both made from a 
 wood, though not hard when first cut, be- 
 comes so by being buried in the mud which 
 serves as a strong die. Spears of 10 feet long, 
 made from the same wood, or from the cocoa- 
 nut tree, and slings made from grass. Bows 
 and arrows have not yet been introduced 
 among them. The stone from the sling is 
 thrown a great distance, and with considerable 
 accuracy. 
 
 The person of the king being tabooed, 
 whatever place or ground he touches becomes 
 sacred and to obviate the inconveniency to which 
 his people would otherwise be subjected, he is 
 at all times carried on a man's back, his conch, 
 or horn, slung about his neck, and a small dia- 
 dem, made of leaves, on his head. Several of 
 thepricipal chiefs are in constant attendance, 
 as well as a retinue of domestics. In his pa- 
 lace he has a canopy of state, under which he 
 sits, or lies — there is great simplicity in its ap- 
 pearance. The palace is an open hut, situated 
 near the sea-side, and has nothing, except its 
 size, to distinguish it from any of the others. 
 One of the rooms was curiously decorated 
 with the skeleton heads of pigs, exceedingly 
 clean, and well preserved. These animals, to 
 
62 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 a great number, had been sacrificed at the 
 death of the king's mother, and whose heads 
 were fixed round this apartment, by way of 
 keeping heralive in his memory ; but however 
 dear she might have been to him, he did not 
 hesitate to barter a couple of the best for an old 
 razor. 
 
 Their candles are made by sticking a great 
 number of the kernels of nuts on a long slip of 
 bamboo, and from their oily nature, they are 
 easily lit, burn very regular, and produce an 
 exceedingly good light. There is a very small 
 portion of smoke, and when the light is extin- 
 guished, the smell though rather powerful, is by 
 no means disagreeable. 
 
 The quadrupeds consist only in pigs, and 
 rats, the latter are exceedingly large, and in 
 very great numbers, the pigs run wild, and are 
 of a fine sort. I brought one of them to Eng- 
 land with me, which being with young at the 
 time of landing, I have now in my possession. 
 the species entire. The natives on seeing our 
 cow, were much surprised, and called it a 
 horned pig, not having seen any of the species 
 before, or having the least idea what else it 
 could be. 
 
 The natives of this place do not bleed their 
 pigs, but strangle them with a rope, and after 
 haying taken out the entrails, and binding 
 
briton's voyage. 53 
 
 the body up with large leaves, it is laid on a 
 heap of hot stones, which burns off the hair, 
 and dresses the body ; and had the one so 
 prepared purposely for us by the Typees, in 
 Comptrollers bay, been a little more dressed, 
 1 am persuaded no dish could have exceeded 
 it: it was full of the richest gravy and was 
 in every way calculated foi the exquisite pa- 
 late of an alderman, who I am inclined to be- 
 lieve, would have taken it in preference, even 
 to the callipee, or callepash, of the most delici- 
 ous tortoise. 
 
 The cava, or spirits, drank here, possess 
 very inebriating qualities, and bring on almost 
 an immediate dizziness. It is produced from 
 the leaves, and roots of a plant, which being 
 chewed by women of the lower order, and spit 
 into calabashes, or receivers, and mixed with 
 the milk, from the cocoa-nut, is left to ferment ; 
 after which it is strained off, when it soon be- 
 comes fit for use. The kings, and a few chiefs, 
 can alone afford to indulge themselves in this 
 delicious nectar, and to those it produces a 
 kind of dry scrofula in the skin, with soreness 
 in the eyes, which was very conspicuous in 
 the old king, for, notwithstanding he had un- 
 dergone the ordeal of Tattooing to an immense 
 degree, his skin was covered with such a dry 
 
54 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 white scale, that gave him, instead of a black, 
 the appearance of being a light grey colour. 
 
 These people are seldom visited by sickness, 
 which may in some measure be attributed to 
 the simplicity of their diet, and their great at- 
 tention to cleanliness. It is considered neces- 
 sary with them to bathe at least three times a 
 day, which greatly diminishes that sour offensive 
 exhalation, proceding from those people of a 
 similar climate, who are less attentive to their 
 persons. Incase of accidents, there are people 
 who profess the art of surgery, and in setting 
 fractures they are expert, aud successful. I 
 saw but one operation of this nature, which 
 was on a broken thigh — the swelling being re- 
 duced, the part fractured was bound carefully 
 round with large leaves, when several splints, 
 or smooth pieces of bamboo, were applied, 
 which being bound with great caution, and 
 the limb confined in one position, the opera- 
 tion was finished. One of the faculty was so- 
 licitous to be supplied with lancets, but 1 
 could not ascertain from Wilson, ifphlebotomy 
 had ever been practised, or if the old man un- 
 derstood the use of these instruments. How- 
 ever, he was furnished with enough to open all 
 the veins in the Island. 
 
 Sir Thomas Staines taking great interest in 
 
briton's voyage. 35 
 
 the voyage, and wishing to know beyond a 
 vague conjecture, their mode of righting, soli- 
 cited the old king to cause a sham fight to be 
 performed upon the plain, which he acceded 
 to, and the old warrior, took great pleasure in 
 going through all the various evolutions. For 
 the club, a tolerably sized stick, was substi- 
 tuted — for the spear, a piece of bamboo, and 
 the slingers, instead of stone, threw the small 
 bread-fruit. Thus armed, about 300 of the 
 most experienced went forth to the plain. 
 The king, for the first time, was carried on a 
 superb litter, which we had made for him on 
 board. He gave direction to the chiefs, for the 
 formation of both armies, which were drawn 
 up in the following manner. About thirty- 
 principal warriors, with clubs, formed the first 
 line — the second was composed of spearmen, 
 and the slingers on the flanks. The battle 
 commenced by a single combat between two 
 chiefs, who displayed great powers, both in 
 agility, and skill, and were struggling manful- 
 ly when the signal was given to advance. A 
 terrific and hideous shout followed. The 
 slingers now began, but were obliged to retire 
 on coming within the reach of the spears. The 
 advance was rapid, and as the parties closed, 
 so did the confusion increase. Club came in 
 contact with club, and spear with spear,— the 
 
36 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 slingers stood aloof. The conch was at length 
 sounded, when each party separated, the slin- 
 gers, on either side, filing into the rear of their 
 respective flanks to seen re their retreat. They 
 did not cease throwing stones until they were 
 rendered of no effect. Both parties again 
 drew up in their original order, and lested on 
 their arms. The distance, as well as accurac y 
 with which they throw a stone is almost incre- 
 dible — the spearmen are also very expert. 
 The countenances of many by being hit by 
 shot from the slings, became quite ferocious — 
 many were knocked down, but none received 
 injury, and thus ended the representation of a 
 battle, which must have been productive of 
 great pleasure to every beholder. 
 
 The principal trees are bread-fruit and cocoa- 
 nut, as from their produce the natives derive 
 their subsistence, but there are various others, 
 which together with a variety of plants and 
 flowers, would afford the botanist an extensive 
 field for speculation, and I regret to say I had 
 no knowledge in so pleasing, as well as useful 
 a science, or I certainly should have turned it 
 to advantage. There are several fine streams 
 of water, and ships may at all seasons be sup- 
 plied without difficulty. There are also seve- 
 ral mineral springs, but the qualities they pos- 
 sess I was wholly inadequate to ascertain. 
 
briton's voyage. 57 
 
 The language spoken here, is by no means 
 harsh, and principally formed from vowels, but 
 1 eould not learn from Wilson, who is most 
 egregiously ignorant, if like most others, it 
 had any particular form, or government, or 
 what it was, nor could I make myself suffici- 
 ently understood among the natives to ascer- 
 tain it from them, but what I could collect, I 
 shall here introduce, and I trust it will be not 
 unacceptable. Their manner of counting is 
 rather irregular, as they only count to twenty, 
 and then the number of twenties, as will be 
 seen by the following tables, to which I shall 
 add, all the words, and expressions, we could 
 gather during our stay, and which we found 
 of great use. 
 
 A table of numerals used at the Island of No- 
 vaheevah Marquesas. 
 
 Atachkee, One Ahono, Six 
 
 Ahowa, Two Aheeto, Seven 
 
 Atoo, Three Avaho, Eight 
 
 Aha, Four Aheva, Nine 
 
 Ahema, Five Unahoo, Ten 
 
 It will be necessary to observe, that the 
 Eleventh number is formed by the addition of 
 
 i 
 
5S 
 
 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 "Om" to the first and the Twelfth by the 
 same addition to the second, and so on to 
 Twenty when they stop : — as 
 
 Omatachkee, Eleven 
 Omahowa, Twelve 
 Omatoo, Thirteen 
 Omaha, Fourteen 
 Omahema, Fifteen 
 
 Omahono, Sixteen 
 Omaheeto, Seventeen 
 Omavaho, Eighteen 
 Omaheeva, Nineteen 
 Omnahoo, Twenty 
 
 lib count a greater number than Twenty, 
 they would say for the first " Atachkee Om- 
 nahoo" and commence afresh with the first 
 number, and " Ahowa Omnahoo" would be 
 the second twenty, or forty, and so on : but 
 they are by no means expert in any kind of 
 calculation. 
 
 The following phrases we found of conside- 
 rable use. 
 
 English, 
 
 How do you do? 
 Very well. 
 Give me something 
 to eat. 
 
 to drink. 
 I will give you. 
 Come here. 
 I am coming. 
 I do not understand. 
 
 Marquesean. 
 
 Caovakooe. 
 
 Nue nue moee tackey. 
 
 Toko mi te kiee. 
 
 Toko mi te maaha Inee. 
 Toil he toko atoo. 
 Fee mi. 
 Ana aoe* 
 Coree aoyocd. 
 
BRITON S VOYAGE. 
 
 59 
 
 What do you say ? 
 
 What do you want ? 
 
 Do you like me ? 
 
 Yes. 
 
 Then give me a kiss ? 
 
 By and bye. 
 
 Do not make a noise. 
 
 It is not me. 
 
 You lie. 
 
 Will you go on board? 
 
 No. 
 
 Give me a spear. 
 
 The day after to-mor- 
 row.. 
 
 My love. 
 
 Go away. 
 
 Kiss me. 
 
 Be off. 
 
 Go to sleep. 
 
 You kill, or hurt me. 
 
 I will knock your 
 brains out. 
 
 Give me some bread. 
 
 Give me some water. 
 
 I am dying ofhunger. 
 
 The barbarous Porter 
 killed the Typees. 
 
 Ay aha. 
 
 Eno waha ? 
 
 A tee me tackey zvowney. 
 
 Ihee. 
 
 Pee me tee toee. 
 
 Apo. 
 
 Too weetoo wee* 
 
 Coree aoee. 
 
 Te ~Ja va. 
 
 A moce ict ozva tiee ? 
 
 Coree. 
 
 Toko m e p ackahoo . 
 
 Oheyohee-ekiee. 
 
 Vihence now, 
 
 Fetee. 
 
 Ho kee my day sho, 
 
 Ta ha too. 
 
 A moce. 
 
 Me mate.! me mate ! 
 
 Tororo. (an expres* 
 slon of great anger) 
 
 Ptj my ti ti potato. 
 
 Pif my viee. 
 
 Me mate deowney. 
 
 Teekecno Porter mate 
 mateTypee. (a gen* 
 eral expression. 
 
60 
 
 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 A list of words we collected during our stay 
 at Port Anna Maria. 
 
 A 
 Axe, Tokee 
 Arms, Ema 
 
 B 
 
 Britain, (Great) Pic- 
 
 iatane. 
 Bad, Tekeeno 
 Bird, Manoo 
 Boat, Waca 
 Ball, Keeva 
 Belly, Apoive 
 Bread, Potato 
 
 Club, Acaootoowah 
 Cocoa-nut, Iahee 
 Cloth, Cahoo 
 Cloth girdle, Amee 
 Carved club, Hoohoo 
 
 D 
 
 Dog, Patoo 
 Devil, Vihenee ihee 
 
 E 
 
 Eyes, Kecco mata 
 England, Picatance 
 
 F 
 
 Face, Mata 
 
 Fish, Eca 
 
 Fish, (large) Eca nue 
 
 Fire, ha-hee 
 
 File, Cookhee 
 
 Foul, mozva 
 
 Fish-hook, Pekee 
 
 G 
 
 God Eatooa 
 Ghost, Atoowa 
 Good, Mocc tackee 
 
 H 
 
 Hunger, Owneg 
 Hut, Afiee 
 Hair, JVohoo 
 
 K 
 
 Kill, Mate 
 
 L 
 
 Legs, Etee mie 
 
 Large, Nue nue 
 Light, Hama 
 Louse, Hootoo 
 
 M 
 
 Many, Attee 
 
briton's voyage. 
 
 61 
 
 Man, Vaharia 
 More, To tackeij 
 Musket, Poohee 
 
 N 
 No, Coree 
 Nothing, Ahohwee 
 
 P 
 
 Powder, Hoeecoch 
 Paint, (red) Anamor 
 Pig, Powaca 
 
 R 
 
 Red cloth, Cahoo a- 
 
 namor 
 Rat, Keckoo 
 Rain, Owa 
 
 Spirits, Viee kava 
 Swim, Cowte tiee 
 Stone, Caya 
 Spear, Pakaao 
 Sling, Maca 
 
 Teeth, Na yeu 
 To-morrow, Ohhe- 
 
 eohee 
 Tat tooi ng, Patikee 
 Toutou, Servant 
 Tayo, Brother 
 
 Water, Viee 
 Wind, Matanee 
 Woman, Waheene 
 
 Small, Etee 
 Something, Mayahah 
 Ship, Waca nue 
 
 Yes, Ihee 
 
 The marvellous stories related by the Ame- 
 rican Officers, who had been taken in the Es- 
 sex, and who were at Valparaiso, when we ar- 
 rived there, relative to the ferociousness of the 
 people, inhabiting the interior of this Island, 
 had greatly excited my curiosity, and 'ere we 
 reached Port Anna Maria, I had made up my 
 
62 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 mind to ascertain beyond a doubt, whether the 
 terrific description given of them was correct ; 
 and to accomplish this point, a party of several 
 officers was made, and every arrangement ne- 
 cessary forcrossing the mountains entered in- 
 to : however, when the period came, from 
 causes which I cannot explain, we were reduc- 
 ed from the number of a dozen to only three ; 
 namely Lieut. J. Morgan, commanding the 
 Marines of the Tagus, Mr. Blackmore, Mid- 
 shipman of the Briton, and myself. To these 
 gentlemen I shall ever feel myself obliged ; 
 for had they forsaken me also, I should not 
 have relinquished the journey, but have gone 
 alone, and their company and observations 
 were throughout the day, both agreeable, and 
 interesting. It was soon after day-light when 
 we set out, accompanied by my Tayo Patoo- 
 kee, as a guide, and Otaheitan Jack as inter- 
 preter. 
 
 In the two preceding days to our journey, a 
 considerable quantity of rain had fallen, and the 
 road which bore the appearance of being always 
 bad, was now become almost impassible, inso- 
 much, that each step we ascended, the difficul- 
 ty increased, and in many places, and for seve- 
 ral yards together, the mountain was so steep, 
 that had it not been for the roots of trees, 
 forming themselves into steps, any attempt to- 
 
briton's voyage. 63 
 
 cross by this route would have been vain. — 
 About nine o'clock we reached the summit, 
 where we tarried awhile, not only to take some 
 refreshment, but to gaze on the various beau- 
 ties of nature as they presented themselves. 
 It was impossible to turn the eye, where it was 
 not met by the most romantic scenery. 
 
 We had now full three miles farther to walk, 
 before we could reach the country of the re- 
 puted Cannibals, and as the road did not bear 
 a very favorable appearance, we hastened our 
 departure from the spot, andproceded on our 
 journey — we had not gone far before we were 
 met by some natives, inhabiting the small, 
 though comparatively level district, through 
 which we were passing, who brought us cocoa 
 nuts, and demonstrated their joy, and friend- 
 ship, by a number of strange actions, which 
 pleased the more because it augured a favora- 
 ble reception from the Typees. This Country 
 is of a deep rich soil, and capable of the great- 
 est improvement. The cocoa-nut, and bread- 
 fruit trees, are every where conspicuous. — 
 There are also some sandle trees found here. 
 
 It was nearly noon before we completed our 
 journey, (about 10 miles from the port) when 
 we were received, and treated with great kind- 
 ness by those terrific people, whom Captain 
 Porter speaks of as having conquered and ren- 
 
64 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 dered tributary to the American flag. The 
 whole seemed pleased, and their satisfaction at 
 seeing us was expressed in various ways, some 
 danced, others sang, knelt down, embraced us, 
 with many other laughable actions, which 
 would be impossible for me to describe. They 
 anticipated our wishes in every thing. The 
 cocoa-nut for our refreshment was presented 
 us, as well as clubs, spears, slings, &c. &c. as 
 pledges of their regard, and which they caused 
 one of their people to carry even to the ship. 
 They examined every thing we had with us, 
 and were greatly astonished at the whiteness 
 of our skin ; several of them opened the bosom 
 of my shirt, the sleeves of my coat, the bot- 
 toms of my trowsers, and one was even so in- 
 credulous as to wash my hand to ascertain if 
 it was not painted. At this time, we were in 
 the place of assembly, surrounded by more than 
 five hundred of them, and I must confess I did 
 not like so strict an examination, which was 
 however put a stop to by my friend Morgan, 
 who with Mr. Blackmore, was undergoing a 
 similar process. At his discharging a pistol 
 in the air, the whole assembly fell prostrate, 
 and in which attitude they remained a consi- 
 derable time, or until they thought the shot 
 had reached its destination. When they were 
 about to rise, a second was fired, which was 
 
briton's voyage. 65 
 
 productive of the same effect. This scene was 
 so truly ludicrous, that to have withheld from 
 laughing would have been morally impossible. 
 When the)' had recovered, at their request, 
 the pistols were several times discharged 
 but during the rest of the day ; every one 
 observed the most accommodating distance. I 
 have not the most trivial thought of their 
 having been actuated by aught but curio- 
 sity, for had they entertained a hostile thought, 
 our being armed with pistols would not have 
 intimidated them ; we were so few in number, 
 that one volley of stones, from their slingers, 
 would have given them quiet possession of our 
 bodies. On this occasion I received great 
 assistance from my Tayo Patookee, as well as 
 on every other, during the whole period of our 
 stay in the Island. 
 
 The Morais of this place, like those of Tu- 
 huony, are by no means handsome, but the 
 square of public assembly is much superior, 
 and sufficiently spacious to contain 1200 peo- 
 ple ! it is also Well built. The manners and 
 cuMto'ms of this tribe, appear in every respect 
 the Same as those at the Port, or Tuhubny. 
 The land is ve'ry luxuriant, but nothing is pro- 
 pagated ; save the few trees from whose fruits 
 they subsist, and which almost grow sponta- 
 neous. There is not any sugar cane, though 
 
 K 
 
66 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 it would flourish throughout the Island. In 
 the mountains I saw several small birds of a 
 beauteous plumage, but they are not plenty. 
 
 It was here these poor, but friendly people, 
 complained in the most bitter terms of the bar- 
 barity they had experienced from Captain Por- 
 ter, and pointed out the spot where he came 
 with a devastating and ruthless hand, and 
 not content with burning their villages, and 
 destroying their trees, shot cold bloodedly, four- 
 teen of their defenceless brethren. In speak- 
 ing of him their countenances became quite 
 ferocious, and " Te keeno Porter mat6, mate, 
 Typee," or the " wicked and brutal Porter mur- 
 dered the Typees" resounded throughout the 
 circle. Their joy at hearing he was taken a 
 prisoner, was excessive, and expressed by the 
 most hideous grimaces. One of them, to ex- 
 plain more fully to the rest that he was a priso- 
 ner, tied his legs with his sling, and the plea- 
 sure this diffused, was not only conspicuous in 
 every face, but proved that this gentleman's 
 conduct had by no means kept pace with the 
 dignity of a civilized nation, nor reflected ho- 
 nour on America ; and that in the account gi- 
 ven of him at Port Anna Maria, there had been 
 no exaggeration. 
 
 I strove with assiduity to ascertain if he 
 
briton's voyage. 67 
 
 really had not some cause which might be ad- 
 duced in extenuation, but no clue could I find 
 to any thing, having a tendency to qualify his 
 conduct. Cocoa-nuts they brought him in 
 great abundance, as well as the greater part 
 of their pigs. He demanded more, to which 
 they found it impossible to accede, without 
 great injury being done to their breeding 
 stock : but this they were obliged to do to 
 prevent the farther effusion of blood. This 
 point accomplished, Captain Porter returns in 
 triumph to the port, laden with his trophies 
 and booty, where he is hailed the great, the 
 magnanimous conqueror ! ! * 
 
 The reader will, I am satisfied, feel great in- 
 dignation at conduct so repugnant to human 
 nature, and in opposition to civilization; but 
 more particularly so when he finds that the 
 
 * After the return of Captain Porter from this horrible 
 slaughter, which had terminated in a manner so disgrace- 
 ful to the arms of America, he caused a throne to be erect- 
 ed in his cabin, on which he sat to receive the homage of 
 those people whom he had rendered tributary to the Ameri- 
 can flag. On which occasion he styled himself king. 
 This I had from Wilson, our interpreter, who was him- 
 self present at this bombastical coronation, which would be 
 ridiculous under any circumstances, but more particularly 
 so in a subject of a Republican Government. 
 
6S A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 people against whom this ruthless sham king* 
 carried war, with all its horrors, are in his own 
 declaration to the world, declared to be de- 
 fenceless. 
 
 The day was far advanced, and neither of us 
 being desirous to spend the night in so remote a 
 place, we turned our thoughts upon re-crossing 
 the mountains, which we found infinitely 
 more tedious than in the ascent. A great con- 
 course accompanied us to the summit, when 
 we parted, and I must confess, I returned on 
 on board not less delighted with my journey, 
 than satisfied that the tales I had before heard 
 relative to the Typees, had not the smallest 
 claim to veracity. 
 
 I shall now give a brief sketch of what pass- 
 ed atTuhuony during the period of the Essex's 
 stay there, as well as the ultimate fate of the 
 prizes she took with her, but before I proceed 
 farther, I will lay before the reader a couple of 
 paragraphs from a written document which 
 Captain Porter caused to be buried under the 
 
 * This is the man who caused a British subject (who 
 wa> on bpard his ship, and would not enter and serve 
 against his country in war) to be stripped naked, tarred, 
 feathered, and sent on shore in Bog tow 1 U He is also 
 the person who has been eulogized By Mr.Xobbet ! 
 
briton's voyage. 69 
 
 flag staff, and which was dug for and found in 
 a bottle by our men. It contained also one sil- 
 ver and two copper coins of the United States. 
 The paper ran thus: — 
 
 CAPTAIN PORTER's DECLARATION. 
 
 "It is hereby made known to the world, that 
 I David Porter, a Captain in the Navy of the 
 United States of America, and now in com- 
 mand of the United States Frigate Essex, have 
 on the part of the said United States, taken 
 possession of the Island called by the natives 
 Nooaheevah, generally known by the name of 
 Sir Henry Martyn's Island, but now called 
 Maddison's Islam! ; that by the request and 
 assistance of the Friendly tribes residing in 
 the valley ofTuhuony, as well as the tribes re- 
 siding in the Mountains, whom I have con- 
 quered and rendered tributary to our flag, I 
 have caused the village of Maddison to be 
 built, consisting of six convenient houses, a 
 rope walk, bakery, and other appurtenances ; 
 and for the protection of the same, I have con- 
 structed a fort calculated to mount sixteen 
 guns, whereon I have mounted four, and have 
 called the same Fort Maddison. 
 
 "Presents, consisting of the produce of the 
 Island to a great amount have been brought 
 in by every tribe in tlie Island, not excepting 
 
70 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 the most remote. " Here he goes on to enu- 
 merate the tribes, after which he says, "Our 
 right to this Island being founded on priority 
 of discovery, conquest, and possession, cannot 
 be disputed ; but the natives to secure them- 
 selves that friendly protection which their de- 
 fenceless situation so much required, ha\e re- 
 quested to be admitted into the great American 
 Family ; whose pure republican policy ap- 
 proaches so near their own, and, in order to 
 encourage those views to their own interest 
 and happiness, as well as to render secure our 
 claim to an Island, valuable on so many consi- 
 derations, I have taken upon myself to promise 
 them they shall be so adopted ; that our chief 
 shall be their chief, and they having given me 
 assurances that such of their brethren, as may- 
 hereafter visit them from the United States, 
 shall enjoy a welcome and hospitable reception 
 among them, and be furnished with whatever 
 refreshments and supplies the Island may af- 
 ford ; that they will protect them against their 
 enemies, and as far as lays in their power will 
 prevent the subjects of Great Britain (know- 
 ing them to be such) from coming among 
 them until peace shall take place between the 
 two nations. " 
 
 The remainder of this document is quite 
 uninteresting, but it was signed by Captain 
 
briton's voyage. J/l 
 
 Porter, and the whole of the officers belong- 
 ing to the Essex. 
 
 From this document it appears, that this 
 royal personage on his arrival, thought it ex- 
 pedient to take possession of an eminence, and 
 on it to erect a battery for the protection of the 
 people, who were at work in the plain below. 
 Town Maddison too, was constructed, as well 
 as a wall, not mentioned in any part of his de- 
 claration, inclosing his camp, which now stands 
 as a lasting monument of his barbarity. The 
 fort was demolished, and Town Maddison 
 burnt immediately after his departure from the 
 Island, and this wall, notwithstanding his si- 
 lence on the subject in his declaration to the 
 world, having some claim to attention, must 
 not be left unnoticed. It is about 5 feet high, 
 built of stone, and incloses an oblong of nearly 
 600 yards of ground, and was constructed by 
 the English prisoners, who were obliged to 
 work, either at building, or carrying stone, 
 during the whole period of its completion, in 
 the heat of the day, and disgracefully loaded 
 with irons. But to explain this more fully, it 
 will be necessary for me to use the words of 
 Mr. Watson, a Captain of one of the Whalers, 
 who, when he was shewing me these instru- 
 ments of tyranny, expressed himself in the fol- 
 lowing manner: — "Yes, Sir, in these irons I 
 
72 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 have carried many a load of stone, and if you 
 ever go to Port Anna Maria, you will probably 
 see a wall which I participated in building. 
 We had men to attend us with whips, nor 
 were we allowed to carry this shot under our 
 arm, but made to drag it after us. I will ne- 
 ver part with them while I live, and when I get 
 home, I will have them fixed in a case, for the 
 gratification of those who may wish to see 
 them." This is as near the relation as I could 
 recollect, when I returned on board to give it a 
 place in my journal. He related several other 
 cruel hardships which he had been subjected 
 to, but as I think a sufficient sample has been 
 given of this self-created Monarch's humanity, 
 I proceed with my narrative. 
 ' It here, perhaps, may not be improper to 
 pay that tribute to the character of Captain 
 Lownes (the then first Lieut, of the Essex) 
 which he seems so justly entitled to. — 
 Throughout the whole, he appears to have been 
 a generous fellow, and as much as laid in his 
 power to have alleviated the distresses of the 
 prisoners. They spoke of him in very high 
 terms. 
 
 The Essex sailed from Nooaheevah, leaving 
 their prizes in charge of Lieut. Gamble, of the 
 marines, who has been pointed out to me as a 
 more cruel, and merciless tyrant than even His 
 
 

 **& «*&*< ar& 'X%&^cJ0>z£a'i*v/L' ■ 
 
BRITON S VOYAGE. 78 
 
 Majesty the Captain himself. This Gentle- 
 man remained in the port some time subse- 
 quent to the departure of the Essex, but his 
 conduct being the occasion of several deser- 
 tions, and thereby being weakened, he hasten- 
 ed his departure. He was preparing the 
 Greenwich for his reception, and had moved 
 the prisoners on board the ship he lived in : 
 these embraced the earliest opportunity of ris- 
 ing, and Mr. Gamble wa? seized, put into 
 irons, and afterwards flogged with six dozen 
 on the back, in retaliation for the number of 
 lashes he had wantonly bestowed on them. 
 The English, with a few Americans who had 
 joined them, put immediately to sea, taking 
 Mr. Gamble with them, and when nearly out 
 of sight of land, they put him into a boat with 
 only a broken oar, and bid him get back if he 
 could— he was also shot at, and wounded in 
 the heel : — however, he succeeded in regaining 
 the Island, when he found his situation very 
 alarming, his crew by desertion being greatly 
 reduced, and not a native in his favor. He 
 therefore sent an armed boat to the shore, to 
 bring off what little was there remaining, and 
 
 also to plunder the harbour and Wilson, who had 
 refused to take a part against the natives ; but 
 fortune still in opposition to his views, whilst 
 they were employed at this amiable work, the 
 
 L 
 
74 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 boat was thrown on the beach by the surf, 
 and the men, anxious to get her again afloat, 
 unthinkingly left their arms, when a party of 
 natives who were in ambush, rushed in upon 
 them, and in an instant Mr. Feltus, amid* 
 shipman, and two men, were laid dead on the 
 beach : the rest succeeded in swimming off to 
 the ship, but not without carrying with them 
 some severe bruises which they had received 
 from the stones. Mr. Gamble's case now be- 
 came extremely serious, and dreading an at- 
 tack from the shore, he set fire to the Green- 
 wich, cut his own cables, and put to sea, and 
 bending his course towards Owhyhee, he arriv- 
 ed there just in time to be taken possession of 
 by His Majesty's sloop Cherub, who brought 
 him in safety to Valparaiso. Thermometer 
 on board 84°, on shore 100° to 105°. 
 
 By the consent of all the tribes assembled, 
 excepting the Typees, (who declared they 
 would make no concession, or acknowledge- 
 ment, to any power) the Island was taken 
 possession of in the name of his Britannic Ma- 
 jesty. A royal salute was fired from the Bri- 
 ton and Tagus, and the Union displayed on a 
 flagstaff at the Palace Royal. This was a 
 parting ceremony, and early next morning we 
 weighed anchor, and proceeded to the Island 
 of Christiana, where we arrived on the 31st. 
 
briton's voyage. 73 
 
 v next day) and anchored in a small bay to the 
 eastward of Resolution bay. Here we were 
 soon visited by some of the natives., whose 
 manners and customs we found similar to 
 those of Novaheevah, excepting a great pro- 
 pensity to thieving, £tnd a trifling difference in 
 some of their words. The scenery of this 
 place like that of the other Islands has an ex- 
 ceedingly wild and romantic appearance.- — 
 The 'mountain's high, steep, and covered with 
 foliage of most luxuriant nature. The land is 
 very rich, and, like Novaheevah, capable of 
 every improvement. 
 
 Afe this Island* Crook* one of the missionary v 
 Gentlemen, was left by Captain Wilson, but t 
 believe he did not remain long enough to work 
 any particular good among the natives. His 
 house was in a retired spot, near the bank of a 
 river, about a mile from the shore. It bore nO 
 trace of ever having been the residence of 3 
 European. He was much esteemed. 
 
 The water here is good, and ships may be 
 supplied with ease, though not with great ex- 
 pedition. It was here one of Mr. Gamble's 
 men, (Peter Snack,) joined us, who complained 
 greatly of that gentleman's conduct, which he 
 declared was the sole and onl> cause of his de- 
 sertion. I do not imagine he entered on 
 board the Briton with a view of serving 
 
76 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 against his country, but merely to ensure a 
 passage back, his conduct during his stay on 
 board was exemplary. This man corroborated 
 the story of Captain Porter's coronation. 
 
 The natives of this Island were labouring 
 under the influence of an intermittent fever and 
 ague, for which was administered both as a re- 
 medy and antidote, the juice of the leaves of 
 certain trees and berries, and which was at- 
 tended with great success. Boyce, a boy 14 
 years old, deserted here. 
 
 Our curiosity being now pretty well satiat- 
 ed, for we had seen every thing worthy of no- 
 tice, on the morning of the 2d September we 
 took our final departure from these friendly 
 people, and as this chapter has been rather 
 long, 1 shall leave the reader to rest awhile, 
 and the interesting incident which transpired 
 on our voyage back to the Continent, he will 
 find related in the ensuing one. 
 
briton's voyage. 77 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Having sailed from the Marquesas, it will 
 be necessary for me to take a cursory view of 
 Mr. Bligh's voyage to Otaheite, in 1788, 
 about which period he was appointed to the 
 command of the Bounty, with a Mr. Christian 
 as his Chief Mate, or First Lieutenant, for the 
 purpose of conveying the bread-fruit tree to 
 the West Indies. The progress he made in his 
 undertaking — his sailing from Otaheite — the 
 subsequent mutiny — the entire annihilation of 
 the object of his voyage, and the miraculous re- 
 turn to the coast of Timor, in an open boat, are 
 circumstances so well known, and have been so 
 feelingly described, thatat the verynameofthe 
 Bounty, they must recur with such strength 
 to any reflective mind, that it will be needless 
 for me to touch on the conduct of the unfor- 
 tunate young man, who led that much to be 
 lamented conspiracy, or that of the experienc- 
 ed Navigator, who appears to have been the 
 chief object of their hatred, and I am afraid 
 the sole cause of the unjustifiable conduct used 
 towards him. 
 
78 X NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 For many years, the ultimate fate of Chris- 
 tian was uncertain, and the prevailing opinion 
 was, that after he had left and destroyed the 
 Bounty, he returned to the coast of S. Ame- 
 rica, and entered into the Spanish service ; nay, 
 it has even been asserted, he had been recog- 
 nized in that situation, and after the account 
 given of him by May hew Folgier,* there were 
 many who retained the same opinion ; but the 
 matter is at present too clearly demonstrated 
 to admit of a doubt, and those idle tales must 
 now meet the fate they then merited. 
 
 The following account is given in the Mis- 
 sionary Voyage, of the conduct of the Muti- 
 neers at, and their departure from Otaheite, 
 since which period to the time of Captain 
 Folgier's touching at Pitcairnes, every thing 
 relative to those infatuated men has been but 
 a vague conjecture. 
 
 " The wind blew fresh from Toubouai and 
 the intention of our Captain was not to go 
 near this Island ; but for the sake of some who 
 were desirous of seeing it, we tacked to wind- 
 ward, and towards evening got within a few 
 miles of it ; he thought it not prudent to land 
 On account of the natives being prejudiced 
 against the English, through the Mutineers of 
 the Bounty, who had destroyed near a hun- 
 dred of them. 
 
 * The master of the first ship which touched at Pitcairnes 
 Island. 
 
briton's voyage 79 
 
 " This Island was discovered by Captain 
 Cook, in the year 1777, and upon it the un- 
 happy Fletcher Christian, with his compani- 
 ons, the Mutineers of the Bounty, attempted a 
 settlement in 1789. They had with them 
 some natives of Otaheite, and live stock of dif- 
 ferent sorts. Notwithstanding* the opposi- 
 tion they met with from the natives on their 
 first arrival, they warped the ship through the 
 only opening in the reef ; then landed, chose a 
 spot of ground, built a fort thereon, and taking 
 their live stock on shore, they intended, had 
 the natives proved friendly to their stay, to 
 have destroyed the Bounty and fixed them- 
 selves there : but their own unruly conduct 
 alienated the natives from them, who withheld 
 their women, which they were ready to seize by 
 violence : they excited the jealousy of the 
 chiefs by a friendship formed with one in pre- 
 ference to the rest ; they were disunited 
 amongst themselves, and many longed for 
 Otaheite : they resolved to leave Toubouai, for 
 and carry with them all they live stock which 
 had brought, the benefit of which the Touboui- 
 ans began to understand, and were unwilling 
 to see them again all collected and removed. 
 This caused the first brawl between the Otahe- 
 itean servants, who were driving in the hogs, 
 and the natives. Insolence, and want of gen- 
 
80 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 tleness, and conciliation, led to all the bloody 
 consequences which ensued. The natives 
 were numerous, and fought with great cou- 
 rage, forcing the Mutineers, to avail them- 
 selves of a high ground, wherewith their su- 
 perior skill, and the advantage of fire-arms, 
 and the aid of the Otaheiteans, who fought 
 bravely on this occasion, they at last came off 
 victorious, with only two of themselves 
 wounded, whilst the dead bodies of the Tou- 
 bouians covered the spot ; and were after- 
 wards thrown up in three or four heaps, Thus 
 finding that no peaceable settlement was now 
 to be obtained in this place, they shipped their 
 live stock, abandoned their fort, and taking 
 their friendly chief on board with them, 
 weighed anchor and steered towards Matavai 
 bay, in the Island of Otaheite. On their pas- 
 sage thither it is said Christian became very 
 melancholy, confining himself to his cabin, 
 and would hardly speak a word to any person ; 
 lamenting most probably, that the resolutions 
 he had formed without deliberation, and exe- 
 cuted with rash haste, had now involved his life, 
 and those of his adherents in miserv. As soon 
 as they anchored in Matavai bay in Otaheite, 
 those who wished to stay there went on shore ; 
 but nine of the Mutineers, and also some of 
 the native men and women remained on 
 
81 
 
 board. With these CI ristian cutting the cable 
 in the night, put to sea, aid steering to the 
 N. W. has never been heard of sin cc." 
 
 We left the friendly Marques'aus on the 2d 
 of September, and were proceeding on our 
 voyage to regain the port of Valparaiso, steer- 
 ing a course which ought, according to the 
 charts and every other authority, to have car- 
 ried us nearly 3 degrees of longitude to the 
 eastward of Pitcairn's Island, and our sur- 
 prize was greatly excited by its sudden and 
 unexpected appearance. It was in the second 
 watch when we made it. At day light we 
 proceeded to a more close examination, and 
 soon perceived huts, cultivation, and people; 
 of the latter, some were making signs, others 
 launching their little canoes through the surf, 
 into which they threw themselves with great 
 dexterity, and pulled towards us. 
 
 At this moment I believe neither Captain 
 Bligh of the Bounty, nor Christian, had enter- 
 ed any of our thoughts, and in waiting the 
 approach of the strangers, we prepared to ask 
 them some questions in the language of those 
 people we had so recently left. They came — 
 and for me to picture the wonder which was 
 conspicuous in every countenance, at being 
 hailed in perfect English, what was the name 
 of the ship, and who commanded her, would 
 
 M 
 
82 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 be impossible — our surprize can alone be con- 
 ceived. The Captain answered, and now a 
 regular conversation commenced. He request- 
 ed them to come alongside, and the reply was, 
 " We have no boat hook to hold on by." " I 
 will throw you a rope" said the Captain. "If 
 you do we have nothing to make it fast to" 
 was the answer. However, they at length 
 came on board, exemplifying not the least 
 fear, but their astonishment was unbounded. 
 
 After the friendly salutation of good mor- 
 row, Sir, from the first man who entered 
 (Mackey) for that was his name, "Do you 
 know, said he, one William Bligh, in Eng- 
 land ? This question threw a new light on 
 the subject, and he was immediately asked if 
 he knew one Christian, and the reply was 
 given with so much natural simplicity, that I 
 shall here use his proper words. "Oh yes," 
 said he, "very well, his son is in the boat 
 there coming up, his name is Friday Fletcher 
 October Christian. His father is dead now— 
 he was shot by a black fellow. " Several of 
 them had now reached the ship, and the scene 
 was become exceedingly interesting, every one 
 betrayed the greatest anxiety to know the ul- 
 timate fate of that misled young man, of whose 
 end so many vague reports had been in circu- 
 lation, and those who did not ask questions, 
 
briton's voyage. 83 
 
 devoured with avidity every word which led 
 to an elucidation of the mysterious termination 
 of the unfortunate Bounty. 
 
 The questions which were now put were 
 numerous, and as I am inclined to believe their 
 being arranged with their specific answers, 
 will convey to the reader, the circumstance as 
 it really took place, with greater force than a 
 continued relation, I shall adopt that plan, and 
 those occurrences which did not lead imme- 
 diately to the end of Christian, and the esta- 
 blishment of the colony, I will relate faithfully 
 as they transpired. 
 
 Question. — Christian you say was shot? 
 
 Answer. — Yes he was. 
 
 Q. — By whom ? 
 
 A. — A black fellow shot him. 
 
 Q, — What cause do you assign for the mur- 
 der. 
 
 A. — I know no reason, except a jealousy 
 which I have heard then existed between the 
 people of Otaheite and the English — Christian 
 was shot in the back while at work in his yam 
 plantation. 
 
 Q. — -What became of the man who killed 
 him ? 
 
 A. — Oh ! that black fellow was shot after- 
 wards by an Englishman. 
 
 Q.— Was there any other disturbance be- 
 
Si* A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 tween the Otahetians and English, after the 
 death of Christian ? 
 
 A. — Yes, the black fellows rose, shot two 
 Englishmen, and wounded John Adams, who 
 is now the only remaning man who came in 
 the Bounty. 
 
 Q. — How did Adams escape being mur- 
 dered ? 
 
 A.- — He hid himself in the wood, and the 
 same night, the women enraged at the mur- 
 der of the English, to whom they were more 
 partial than their countrymen, rose and put 
 every Otahetian to death in their sleep. This 
 saved Adams, his wounds were soon healed, 
 and although old, he now enjoys good health. 
 
 Q. — How many men and women did 
 Christian bring with him in the Bounty ? 
 
 A. — Nine white men, six from Otaheite, 
 and eleven women. 
 
 Q. — And how many are there now on the 
 Island ? 
 
 A. — In all we have 48. 
 
 Q — Have you ever heard Adams say how 
 long it is since he came to the Island ? 
 
 A 1 have heard it is about 2a years ago. 
 
 Q. — And what became of the Bounty ? 
 
 A. — After every thing useful was taken out 
 of her, she was run on shore, set fire to, and 
 burnt. 
 
briton's voyage. $5 
 
 Q. — Have you ever heard how many years 
 it is since Christian was shot? 
 
 A. — I understand it was about two years 
 after his arrival at the Island. 
 
 Q. — What became of Christian's wife? 
 
 A. — She died soon after Christian's son was 
 born, and I have heard that Christian took 
 forcibly the wife of one of the black fellows to 
 supply her place, and which was the chief 
 cause of his being shot. 
 
 Q — Then, Fletcher October Christian is 
 the oldest on the Island, except John Adams, 
 and the old women ? 
 
 A. — Yes he is the first born on the Island. 
 
 Q. — At what age do you marry ? 
 
 A. — Not before 19 or 20. 
 
 Q. — Are you allowed to have more than 
 one wife ? 
 
 A. — No! we can have but one, and it is 
 wicked to have more. 
 
 Q. — Have you been taught any religion ? 
 
 A. — Yes, a very good religion. 
 
 Q. — In what do you believe ? 
 
 A. — I believe in God the Father Almighty, 
 &c. (Here he went through the whole of the 
 Belief.) . 
 
 Q — Who first taught you this Belief? 
 
 A. — John Adams says it was first by F. 
 
86 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 Christian's order, and that he likewise caused 
 a prayer to be said every day at noon. 
 
 Q. — And what is the prayer? 
 
 A. — It is," — "I will arise and go to my 
 father, and say unto him Father, 1 have sinned 
 against Heaven, and before thee, and am no 
 more worthy of being called thy son." 
 
 Q. — Do you continue to say this every day ? 
 
 A. — Yes, we never neglect it. 
 
 Q. — What language do you commonly 
 speak ? 
 
 A. — Always English. 
 
 Q. — But you understand the Otahetian ? 
 
 A. — Yes, but not so well. 
 
 Q. — Do the old women speak English ? 
 
 A. — Yes, but not so well as they under- N 
 stand it, their pronunciation is not good. 
 
 Q. — What countrymen do you call your- 
 selves r 
 
 A. — Half English, and half Otaheite. 
 
 Q. — Who is your King? 
 
 A. — Why, King George to be sure. 
 
 Q. — Have you ever seen a ship bel'oie ? 
 
 A. — Yes, we have seen four from the Is- 
 land, but only one stopped. May hew Fol- 
 gier was the Captain, I suppose you know 
 him? — No, we do not know him. 
 - Q« — How long did he stay ? 
 
 A. — Two days. 
 
briton's voyage. 87 
 
 Q. — Should you like to go to England ? 
 
 A. — No! I cannot, I am married, and have 
 a family. 
 
 Before we had finished our interrogatories 
 the hour of breakfast had arrived, and we soli- 
 cited our half countrymen, as they styled 
 themselves, to accompany us below, and par- 
 take of our repast, to which they acquiesced 
 without much ceremony. The circle in which 
 we had surrounded them being opened, 
 brought to the notice of Mackey, a little black 
 terrier. He was at first frightened, ran be- 
 hind one of the officers, and looking over his 
 shoulder said, pointing to the dog, "I know 
 what that is, it is a dog, I never saw a dog be- 
 fore — will it bite ?" After a short pause he ad- 
 - dressed himsef to Christian, saying with great 
 admiration,* 1 It is a pretty thing too to look at, 
 is it not?" 
 
 The whole of them were inquisitive, and in 
 their questions as well as answers, betrayed a 
 very great share of natural abilities. 
 
 They asked the names of whatever they saw, 
 and the purposes to which it was applied. 
 This, they would say, was pretty, — that they 
 did not like, and were greatly surprised at our 
 having so many things which they were not 
 possessed of in the Island. 
 
 The circumstance of the dog, the things 
 
88 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 which at each step drew their attention or cre- 
 ated their wonder, retarded us on our road to 
 the breakfast table, but arriving there, we had 
 a new cause for surprize. The astonishment 
 which before had been so strongly demonstrat- 
 ed in them, was now become conspicuous in 
 us, even to a much greater degree than when 
 they hailed us in our native language ; and I 
 must here confess I blushed when I saw na- 
 ture in its most simple state, offer that tribute 
 of respect to the Omnipotent Creator, which 
 from an education I did not perform, nor from 
 society had been taught its necessity. 'Ere 
 they began to eat ; on their knees, and with 
 hands uplifted did they implore permission to 
 partake in peace what was set before them, and 
 when they had eaten heartily, resuming their 
 former attitude, offered a fervent prayer of 
 thanksgiving for the indulgence they had just 
 experienced. Our omission of this ceremony 
 did not escape their notice, for Christian ask- 
 ed me whether it was not customary with us 
 also. Here nature was triumphant, for I 
 should do myself an irreparable injustice, did I 
 not with candour acknowledge, I was both 
 embarrassed and wholly at a loss for a sound 
 reply, and evaded this poor fellow's question 
 by drawing his attention to the cow, which 
 was then looking down the hatchway, and as 
 
BRITON'S VOYAGE. 89 
 
 lie had never seen any of the species before, 
 it was a source of mirth and gratification to 
 him. 
 
 The hatred of these people to the blacks is 
 strongly rooted, and which doubtless owes 
 its origin to the early quarrels which Chris- 
 tian and his followers had with the Otahetians 
 after their arrival at Pitcarnes ; to illustrate 
 which I shall here relate an occurrence which 
 took place at breakfast. 
 
 Soon after young Christian had began, a 
 West Indian Black, who was one of the ser- 
 vants, entered the gun-room to attend table as 
 usual. Christian looked at him sternly, rose, 
 asked for his hat, and said, "I don't like that 
 black fellow, I must go," and it required some 
 little persuasion, 'ere he would again resume 
 his seat. The innocent Quashe was often re- 
 minded of the anecdote by his fellow servants. 
 
 After coming along side the ship, so eager 
 were they to get on board, that several of the 
 canoes had been wholly abandoned, and gone 
 adrift, This was the occasion of an anecdote 
 which will show most conspicuously the good 
 nature of their dispositions, and the mode re- 
 sorted to in deciding a double claim. The ca- 
 noes being brought back to the ship, the 
 Captain ordered that one of them should re- 
 main in each, when it became a question to 
 
 N 
 
90 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 which that duty should devolve ; however it 
 was soon adjusted, for Mackey observed that 
 he supposed they were all equally anxious to 
 see the ship, and the fairest way would be for 
 them to cast lots, as then there would be no 
 ill will on either side. This was acceded to, 
 and those to whom it fell to go into the boat, 
 departed without a murmur. 
 
 I could wish it had been possible for us to 
 have prolonged our stay for a few days, not 
 only for our own gratification, but for the be- 
 nefit which these poor people would have de- 
 rived from it, for I am perfectly satisfied, 
 from the interest every one took, nothing 
 would have been withheld by the lowest of the 
 crew which probability told him would add to 
 their comfort : however this was impossible ; 
 for, from some cause on the part of the com- 
 missariat department, and which I cannot 
 well explain, we were reduced to so compa- 
 ratively small a portion of provisions, that it 
 was necessary to use every means to expedite 
 our return to South America, and after ascer- 
 taining the longitude to be in 130 ff 25', W. and 
 latitude 25° 4'S. we again set sail and pro- 
 ceeded on our voyage. 
 
 No one but the Captains went ashore, 
 which will be a source of lasting regret to me,. 
 for I would rather have seen the simplicity of 
 
briton's voyage. 91 
 
 that little village, than all the splendour and 
 jnagnificence of a city. 
 
 I now lament it the more, because the con- 
 clusion of this chapter will be from the rela- 
 tion of another, and I was willing to lay as lit- 
 tle as possible before the reader, but to what 
 I had myself been a witness; still, as I can 
 rely on its veracity, I shall hope it will please. 
 " After landing'' said my friend "and we had 
 ascended a little eminence, we were impercep- 
 tibly led through groupes of cocoa-nuts and 
 bread-fruit trees, to a beantiful picturesque 
 little village, formed on an oblong square, 
 with trees of various kinds irregularly inter- 
 spersed. The houses small, but regular, con- 
 venient, and of unequalled cleanliness. The 
 daughter of Adams, received us on the hill. 
 She came doubtlessly as a spy, and had we ta- 
 ken men, or even been armed ourselves, 
 would certainly have given her father timely 
 notice to escape, but as we had neither, she 
 waited our arrival, and conducted us to where 
 her father was. She was arrayed in nature's 
 simple garb, and wholly unadorned, but she 
 was beauty's self, and needed not the aid of 
 ornament. She betrayed some surprize — ti* 
 midity was a prominent feature. 
 
 "John Adams is a fine looking old man, ap- 
 proaching to sixty years of age. We con- 
 
92 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 versed with him a long time, relative to the 
 mutiny of the Bounty, and the ultimate fate of 
 Christian. He denied being accessary to, or 
 having the least knowledge of the conspiracy, 
 but he expressed great horror at the conduct 
 of Captain Bligh, not only towards his men, 
 but officers also. I asked him if he had a de- 
 sire to return to England, and I must confess 
 his replying in the affirmative, caused me 
 great surprize. 
 
 " He told me he was perfectly aware how 
 deeply he was involved ; that by following the 
 fortune of Christian, he had not only sa- 
 crificed every claim to his country, but that 
 his life, was the necessary forfeiture for such 
 an act, and he supposed would be exacted 
 from him was he ever to return : notwithstand- 
 ing all these circumstances, nothing would be 
 able to occasion him so much gratification as 
 that of seeing once more, prior to his death, 
 that country which gave him birth, and from 
 which he had been so long estranged. 
 
 " There was a sincerity in his speech, I can 
 badly describe it — but it had a \ery powerful 
 influence in persuading me these were his real 
 sentiments. My interest was excited to so 
 great a degree, that I offered him a convey- 
 ance for himself, with any of his family who 
 chose to accompany him. He appeared 
 
briton's voyage. 93 
 
 pleased at the proposal, and as no one was 
 then present, he sent for his wife and children. 
 The rest of this little community surrounded 
 the door. He communicated his desire, and 
 solicited their aquiescence. Appalled at a 
 request not less sudden than in opposition to 
 their wishes, they were all at a loss for a reply. 
 
 His charmina; daughter although inundat- 
 ed with tears, first broke the silence. 
 
 " Oh do not, Sir," saidshe "take from me 
 my father! do not take away my best — my 
 dearest friend." Her voice failed her — she 
 was unable to proceed — lent her head upon 
 her hand, and gave full vent to her grief. 
 His wife too (an Otaheitian) expressed a live- 
 ly sorrow. The wishes of Adams soon be- 
 came known among the others, who joined in 
 pathetic solicitation for his stay on the Island. 
 Not an eye was dry — the big tear stood in 
 those of the men— the women shed them in 
 full abundance. I never witnessed a scene so 
 fully affecting, or more replete with interest. 
 To have taken him from a circle of such 
 friends, would have ill become a feeling heart, 
 to have forced him away in opposition to their 
 joint and earnest entreaties, would have been 
 an outrage on humanity. 
 
 " With assurances that it was neither our wish 
 nor intention to take him from them against 
 
94 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 his inclination, their fears were at length -dissi- 
 pated. His daughter too had gained her 
 usual serenity, but she was lovely in her tears, 
 for each seemed to add an additional charm." 
 Forgetting the unhappy deed which placed 
 Adams in that spot, and seeing him only in 
 the character he now is, at the head of a little 
 community, adored by all, instructing all, in 
 religion, industry, and friendship, his situa- 
 tion might be truly envied, and one is almost 
 inclined to hope that his unremitting attention 
 to the government and morals of this extraor- 
 dinary little colony, will ultimately, prove an 
 equivalent for the part he formerly took, — 
 entitle him to praise, and should he ever re- 
 turn to England, ensure him the clemency of 
 that Sovereign he has so much injured" 
 
 The young women have invariably beauti- 
 ful teeth, fine eyes, and open expression of 
 countenances, and looks of such simple inno- 
 cence, and sweet sensibility, that renders their 
 appearance at once interesting and engaging, 
 and it is pleasing to add, their minds and man- 
 ners were as pure and innocent, as this impres- 
 sion indicated. No lascivious looks, or any 
 loose, forward manners, which so much distin- 
 guish the characters of the females of the other 
 Islands. 
 
 The Island itself has an exceedingly pretty 
 
briton's yoyage. 96 
 
 appearance, and I was informed by Christian, 
 every part was fertile and capable of being cul- 
 tivated. The coast is every way bound with 
 rocks, inFomuch that they are at all times 
 obliged to carry their little boats to the vil- 
 lage, but the timber is of so light a nature 
 that one man is adequate to the burden of the 
 largest they have. 
 
 Each family has a separate allotment of 
 land, and each strive to, rival the other in their 
 agricultural pursuits, which is chiefly confined 
 to the propagation of the Yam, and which 
 they have certainly brought to the finest per- 
 fection I ever saw. The bread-fruit and co- 
 coa-nut trees, were brought with them in the 
 Bounty, and have been since reared with 
 great success. The pigs also came by the 
 same conveyance, as well as goats and poul- 
 try. They had no pigeons, and I am sorry to 
 say no one thought of leaving those few we 
 had on board, with them. 
 
 The pigs have got into the woods, and many 
 are now wild. Fish of various sorts are taken 
 here, and in great abundance ; the tackling is 
 all of their own manufacturing, and the hooks, 
 although beat out of old iron hoops, not only 
 answer the purpose, but are fairly made. 
 
 Needles they also make from the same ma- 
 terials. Those men who came on board, were 
 
9(> A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 finely formed, and of manly features. Their 
 height about 5 feet 10 inches. Their hair 
 black and long, generally plaited into a tail. 
 
 They wore a straw hat, similar to those worn 
 by sailors, with a few feathers stuck into them 
 by way of ornament. On their shoulders was 
 a mantle resembling the Chilinan Poncho 
 which hung down to the knee, and round the 
 waist, a girdle corresponding to that of the In- 
 dians at the Marquesas, both of which are 
 produced from the bark of trees growing on 
 the Islands. They told me they had clothes 
 onshore, but never wore them. I spoke to 
 Christian particularly, of Adams, who assured 
 me he was greatly respected, insomuch that 
 no one acted in opposition to his wishes, and 
 when they should lose him, their regret would 
 be general. The inter-marriages which had 
 taken place among them, have been the occa- 
 sion of a relationship throughout the colony. 
 There seldom happens to be a quarrel, even of 
 the most trivial nature, and then, (using their 
 own term,) is nothing more than a word of 
 mouth quarrel, which is always referred to 
 Adams for adjustment. 
 
 Several books belonging to Captain Bligh 
 which were taken out of the Bounty were then, 
 in the possession of Adams, and the first voy- 
 age of Captain Cook was brought on board 
 
briton's voyage. 97 
 
 the Briton. In the title page of each volume 
 the name of Captain Bligh was written, and I 
 suppose in his own writing. Christian had 
 written his name immediately under it with- 
 out running his pen through, or defacing in 
 the least that of Captain Bligh's. On the 
 margins of several of the leaves were written in 
 pencil, numerous remarks on the work, but as 
 I consider them to have been the private ob- 
 servations of Captain Bligh, and written un- 
 suspecting the much lamented event which 
 subsequently took place, they shall by me be 
 held sacred. 
 
 If the outline I have here given has not 
 been adequate to the reader's expectation, I 
 trust the short period in which I had to col- 
 lect the materials, will, in some degree, plead 
 my apology ; under which impression I shall 
 leave Pitcairn's Island, but not without a hope 
 that its interesting inhabitants will receive 
 that support from this country, the peculiar- 
 ity of their situation so justly entitle them to, 
 and proceed to Valparaiso, where we arrived 
 after a voyage of 30 days, when we had nei- 
 ther bread in our lockers, nor wine in our 
 casks ; therefore, the reader will not be sur- 
 prised, if, while he rests, that I should indulge 
 myself with a few of the luxuries of the Port. 
 
98 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 The reader will be aware that the period 
 afforded me at our first arrival in this port, was 
 inadequate to furnish sufficient materials for a 
 correct description, either of its importance or 
 situation, and will not only attribute any si- 
 lence to so obvious a reason, but permit me 
 here to make it the theme of a short chapter. 
 
 Valparaiso then may be considered as one of 
 the most commodious, opulent, and extensive 
 Ports on the coast of Chili, and is situated in 
 latitude 33° l 7 south, and in longitude72° 19' 
 west, at about ninety miles from the city of 
 Santiago, the capital of the country. This 
 town being divided into two parts, and known 
 by the names of the Port Valparaiso, and the 
 Almendrale, I shall to prevent confusion speak 
 of them separately. The Port is, doubtless, 
 the most ancient, and from its being the im- 
 mediate mart for every kind of merchandize 
 in the country, it is of the greatest considera- 
 tion. The town is built as regular as the 
 ground on which it stands will allow, and pos- 
 sesses two or three tolerable streets ; the rest, 
 
briton's voyage. 99 
 
 and which is by far the greatest part, occu- 
 pies the sides and summits of those heights, 
 which run with great abruptness even to the 
 beach. Through each of those streets cross 
 several zig-zag roads and smaller paths, lead- 
 iug from them to the different dwellings. The 
 houses, with a few exceptions (as throughout 
 the country) are but one story, and built of 
 large unbumt bricks, have rather a mean ap- 
 pearance, and those situated on the beach are 
 occupied by merchants, either as magazines for 
 corn, or ships; and where the principal port 
 of their commercial affair is transacted. The 
 chief article of commerce consists in corn, cor- 
 dage, and copper ; the two first being brought 
 from the neighbouring fertile valley of Quillo- 
 ta ; the last from beyond St. Jago. 
 
 The custom House, with all its establish- 
 ment, is on the beach, and all boats (His Bri- 
 tish Majesty's excepted) are obliged to land 
 there. Both officers and men belonging to 
 this department appear to be vigilant in their 
 stations, and steady in the performance of 
 their duty ; but I believe, from the Governor 
 to the lowest individual in the establishment, 
 there are few who can withstand the tempta- 
 tion of a " cohecho de oro," or a bribe of gold. 
 
 There are two churches but neither worthy 
 
100 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 of notice, and monasteries or convents there 
 are none. 
 
 In the centre of the town, and commanding 
 it in either direction, is situated the citadel, 
 consisting of a small battery of 12 guns to- 
 wards the sea, and a wall surrounding an in- 
 considerable piece of ground, in which is the 
 Governor's residence and prison. This place 
 bears not the least resemblance to a regular 
 fortification, and the rivers described by Fro- 
 zier to run on either side, must have been from 
 fancy alone. I sought for them, but in vain ; 
 however, there are certainly channels, and in 
 the rainy season they may contain a conside- 
 rable quantity of water — at any other period 
 certainly not. There is a deep well in the gar- 
 rison, and another greatly within the range of 
 its cannon. The whole is in the greatest pos- 
 sible state of disorganization, but let it be in 
 never so fine a state, it is not tenable against 
 any force which may be in possession of the 
 heights above, for as the mountain is steep, the 
 citadel becomes soon exposed ; insomuch, that 
 at the distance of half a gun shot, it is quite 
 open and unprotected. 
 
 Castello Blanco, or the White Castle, stands 
 on the beach immediately under a high cliff, 
 at the west point of the bay, flanking the har- 
 
briton's voyage. 101 
 
 hour to the eastward. It mounts but 8 can- 
 nons, is wholly unprotected from the land, 
 and capable of little resistance from the sea, 
 as a ship of any force going against it, the 
 garrison would not long be able to stand at 
 their guns. 
 
 The anchorage here is very good, but the 
 most secure and protected is towards the 
 White Castle, the opposite side being a shoal 
 as well as having some dangerous rocks, which 
 are at no period visible above the surface of 
 the water. The shore from the citadel to be- 
 low the Custom House is very bold, and ships 
 of considerable burden can anchor within a 
 few yards of the beach, so that they can con- 
 veniently take in, or discharge the cargoes. 
 
 It is impossible for ships of force to be sup- 
 plied, at any time, with water from the port 
 without incalculabe trouble, for it is in the rai- 
 ny season alone that there is any, but what is 
 contained in the wells; however, at the Al- 
 rnendrale it may be procured at all seasons, 
 when the surf will permit the boats to land, as 
 I shall hereafter mention. 
 
 All kind of trading with this country being 
 prohibited by the Spanish Government, the 
 quantity of European goods imported here is 
 but trifling, and of a most exhanced price; 
 but great smuggling is now carried on across 
 
102 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 the Cordilliras, and all sorts of contraband 
 goods are introduced by the British residents 
 at Buenos Ayres, and their agents. The im- 
 mediate produce of the country is confined to 
 corn, hemp, and cordage, which are brought 
 here in great quantities, and shipped for Lima, 
 and the different ports of Peru ; and as that 
 country is nearly as deflitute of these articles 
 as Chili is of sugar, coffee, &c. &c. these are 
 their principal goods brought back in ex- 
 change. In fact, these two countries appear 
 dependent on each other ; and without a friend- 
 ly underftanding, and which is so much to the 
 intereft of both to have, they mull be equally 
 distreffed. During the Patre, or revolution in 
 Chili, corn in Peru was at 12 and 14 dollars 
 the English single bufhel, while sugar and cof- 
 fee, in Chili, was at 6s. 6d. or 7 millings the 
 pound . 
 
 I muff not omit to mention the market, 
 which, with the governor's house, forms a 
 square, and is abundantly supplied with every 
 article of subsistence, particularly poultry, ve» 
 getables, and fruit, whose prices are very mo- 
 derate, Notwithstanding the apple is at all 
 times so plentiful, and so superior in quality, 
 they have not as yet began to make cider. The 
 grapes also are of unequalled quality, but 
 the wine is seldom drinkable. The peach, 
 
driton's voyage. 103 
 
 apricot, and nectarine, are in their seasons ex- 
 tremely large and of a most delicious flavour. 
 The frutillia, or strawberry, although in size 
 equal to three or four of ours, is by no 
 means so agreeable to the taste. 
 
 This country is abundantly supplied with 
 every species of cattle, and an ox weighing 
 about 400 lbs. (which is the common size) 
 may be procured for 10 or 12 dollars. The 
 horses are not large, but finely formed, fleet, 
 and spirited ; and when trained, are so tender 
 in the mouth, that the most trivial touch of 
 the rein is sufficient when going full speed to 
 stop them in an instant — -a sharp check, on the 
 spot, if the rider be not on his guard, it is 
 no more than probable that he will be precipi- 
 tated over his head, which was a frequent oc- 
 currence with the sailors when on their eques^- 
 trian excursions. 
 
 The population of the port, joined to that 
 of the Almendrale, is computed by the Spa- 
 niards to be nearly 20,000, but I have no con- 
 ception it can be so many by nearly a third. 
 
 A mountain whose abrupt, termination leaves 
 only sufficient room for a narrow road between 
 it and the beach, separates the port of Valpa- 
 raiso and the Almendrale, or Almond Grove, 
 at the distance of 300 yards; but even in this 
 space there are a few hovels formed in the 
 
104 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 rock, so it may literally be said there is a di- 
 rect line of communication from the one to the 
 other. 
 
 This place is built on a plain of more than a 
 mile in length, and half as much in width, 
 and consists of one long street running directly 
 through it, with smaller ones leading to the 
 right and left. It is said to contain upwards 
 of 5000 people — has several small churches, 
 and one small monastery. It is so great a 
 mart for fruit, that at almost every door there 
 are various sorts exhibited for sale. Several 
 gardens of great extent are occupied by al- 
 mond trees, from which the place derives its 
 name. There are also large vineyards, in one 
 of which, situated about the centre of the 
 town, is the well from whence the shipping 
 are supplied with water. In is drawn in buck- 
 ets by means of a wheel, and is sufficient to 
 keep in continual supply 3 or 4 large oses, or 
 pipes. The greatest inconvenience is the dis- 
 tance, f400 or 500 yards,,/ to roll the calks, 
 they muft also be rafted off, as there is at all 
 times too great a surf to get them easily into 
 boats. 
 
 At the end of this town commences the 
 grand road to the city, made by O'Higgins du- 
 ring his presidentship. A guard is always 
 kept there, and all travellers muft have their 
 
briton's voyage. 105 
 
 passports backed by the offices, or at Casa 
 Blanca (12 leagues distant) he will be prevent- 
 ed from proceeding on his journey. The tem- 
 perature here is generally moderate, and the 
 country healthy. The thermometer from 68° 
 to 73°. 
 
 During the months of June, July, August, 
 and September, it is continual rain, and is very 
 properly called the rainy season. In the other 
 months there is seldom a cloud, and except a 
 fog in the morning, it is always serene. The 
 country for several miles round, is nothing but 
 steril mountains, scorched by the sun in the 
 summer, or deluged by the rain in the winter; 
 however, the vallies in the interior aje very 
 beautiful, and among them Quillota may be 
 considered not only the most extensive, but 
 fertile. The town, from which it takes its 
 name, lies about 30 miles in aN. E. direction 
 from Valparaiso, and the road leading to it for 
 some distance is rugged, and thecountry barren. 
 By this route, you pass the small bay where the 
 American Frigate Essex was captured by the 
 Phcebe and Cherub, and where many of her 
 crew swam on shore, and as many perifhed in 
 the attempt. Paffing this place, and ascend- 
 ing an eminence, the principal part of the port 
 opens itself to view, and with it the traveller 
 cannot but be gratified, for notwithstanding 
 
 p 
 
106 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 the flerility of the mountains, want of cultiva- 
 tion, trees, &c. there is a certain ftrangeness 
 in the appearance, which excited in me consi- 
 derable interest. Advanced thus far, the val- 
 ley and town of Quillota appear in front, 
 whose lively aspect when compared with the 
 country you have passed over, forms a very 
 striking contrast. Quillota is most abun- 
 dantly supplied with every description of 
 fruit, and the only attention paid the trees, is 
 causing the trenches in which they are planted 
 to be kept constantly moist throughout the dry 
 season. This fertile valley is also productive 
 of corn, hemp, and cordage, of the finest qua- 
 lities, which is generally transported on mules 
 to Valparaiso, either for the purpose of being 
 shipped or mauufactured The rope when 
 made, contains nothing but the hemp in its 
 natural state, as the tar of the country is of too 
 destructive a nature to be mixed with it, and 
 that of Europe too expensive to be brought 
 for that purpose. The riches of this valley, are 
 not confined alone to the fertility of its surface ; 
 the earth for several feet deep, contains a por- 
 tion of gold, which is, when warned, of great 
 purity. The silver mines likewise are very 
 rich. It was here, and in consequence of it? 
 abounding in gold, that the Spaniards under 
 Peter de Baldivia erected a fort for the security of 
 
briton's voyage. 10J 
 
 the settlement, and to keep in awe those In- 
 dians whom he employed to bring him trea- 
 sure. "But," says Frazier, " they poffefled 
 themselves of it by a very ingenious stratagem. 
 One of those, on an appointed day, carried 
 thither a pot full of gold dust, to excite the cur- 
 iosity of the garrison soldiers. In a short time 
 they all gathered about that little treasure, and 
 whilst they were busy contending their pri- 
 vate interests, to divide the same, an ambus- 
 cade of Indians concealed and armed with ar- 
 rows, rushed in upon them, and found them 
 defenceless. The victors then destroyed the 
 fort, which has never been rebuilt since, and 
 they gave over searching for gold there." I 
 was not at the town, but am informed by a 
 gentleman who had been there, it is very in- 
 considerable— -principally inhabited by the na- 
 tives of the country, and not containing more 
 than a hundred families that are white. Mules 
 are the only animals used, to transport their 
 goods from one place to another, and conse- 
 quently great numbers must be daily employ- 
 ed ; in some of the teams 1 have seen upwards of 
 three hundred. They travel with great cele- 
 rity, and if it be more than one day's journey, 
 they are unloaded and their burdens formed 
 into an encampment. If the traveller chuses, 
 he may return from the valley of Quillota to 
 
108 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 the port by another route, but before he reaches 
 theCamino Real, or royal road, he will find it 
 exceedingly rugged and disagreeable. 
 
 In the south-east direction, and about ten 
 miles from Valparaiso, is the Lagoon, on 
 which there is frequently good shooting. 
 Swans are found there, and at times black 
 ones. There are also, near this place, some 
 very good farms. 
 
 The natives of Chili are very expert at 
 throwing the Lesso, and by which every kind 
 of animal is caught. The process is thus. A 
 man with a rope of 20 yards or upwards in 
 length (having at the end to be delivered, a 
 noose) coiled in his right hand, turns it twice, 
 or thrice over his head to create velocity J ere 
 he throws it at the object, which, let it be a 
 bull, never so wild, he will be sure to take 
 him by the horns or head. They are so ex- 
 ceedingly dexterous at this work, that they 
 will, with the same facility, take a bullock by 
 the leg, as they can by the head or neck. 
 
 When speaking of the garrison, I omitted 
 to say the Governor is also military comman- 
 dant, and has under him about 700 men, who 
 are natives of the country, badly dressed, un- 
 disciplined, and 1 believe generally disaffected 
 to the Spanish Government. It is hardly 
 poflible to impress the reader with a proper 
 
BRITON S VOYAGE. 1 09 
 
 ktea of their dress or arms ; but a guard, when 
 turned out, is the most motley group 1 ever 
 beheld or could have imagined. Among a 
 score it may be confidered extraordinary, if 
 there can be found one pair of shoes or stock- 
 ings. Their arms also, are very defective. 
 
 It may not be improper, if I here, by way of 
 conclusion to this chapter, make a fhort di- 
 greflion, and give an outline of what pafled in 
 this country subsequent to our first arrival in 
 the port, when we found Capt. Hellier, of the 
 Phoebe, had juft returned from Chilan, after 
 having succeeded in concluding a treaty with 
 the Patriots for an armistice of one year, du- 
 ring which period, the country was to enjoy a 
 free trade, and the Spanish flag to be refpect- 
 ed. By this treaty, and which I have under- 
 flood he was authorized to make by the Vice- 
 roy of Lima, on any terms, the Spanifh army 
 under Gen. Gan^a, was extricated from that 
 fate which otherwise awaited it. The priso- 
 ners alfo, and among whom were officers of ta- 
 lents and diftinction, were set at liberty, and 
 conveyed by us, as I have before ftated, to Li- 
 ma. This object effected, which was the end 
 of the Viceroy's views, he broke the treaty 
 entered into on his part by Capt. Hellier, un- 
 der a pretence that he had exceeded his in- 
 fiructions, and began immediately to prepare 
 
110 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 a frefti expedition again!! Chili, anil the arri- 
 val of the Taiaveia Regimentfrom Spain, which 
 thirsted for rapine and plunder, enabled him 
 to cany his wilhes into instant effect. This 
 expedition, Ossorio, a Spaniard by birth, and 
 I understand pofTefled of all the bad qualities 
 inherent in his countrymen, without a single 
 good one of his own, was appointed to com- 
 mand. Every thing to facilitate his comple- 
 tion was done, but, however much the viceroy- 
 might have wifhed to prevent it, the news 
 foon reached Chili, and in the interim, measures 
 were taken in that country to counteract his 
 dupricity. But thofe who had been in oppo- 
 sition to Capt. Hellier's convention, instead 
 of uniting with them, upbraided his party 
 with treachery, and of having sold their coun- 
 try. These reproaches however juftly they 
 might have been applied, were fharpened by 
 other invectives, and at length their private 
 resentment preponderating against the public 
 good, hostilities commenced between the two 
 parties ; the Carrares heading one, the Roses 
 the other. During the internal broils, and 
 battles which followed, the common enemy to 
 both was wholly loft sight of, and they placed 
 themselves on the margin of that precipice 
 from which they were ultimately hurled. Os- 
 sorio's expedition had been completed, sailed, 
 
briton's voyage. Ill 
 
 and arrived at Conception ; nay, he was even 
 on his march towards Kancagua before their 
 unnatural delirium was at all dispatched. 
 When he arrived, he found his forces greatly- 
 inferior in number to what he had to contend 
 with, but relying on the superior discipline of 
 the Talavara regiment, be was anxious to bring 
 them to battle, as the Chilinans were disunit- 
 ed amonst themselves, and destitute even of a 
 chief or officer, on whom they could place con- 
 fidence for either abilities, or courage. A bat- 
 tle soon ensued, and wonderful to relate, the 
 Chilinans fought so determinedly,, that for a 
 ^confiderable time the day was doubtful, and 
 it is said that had young Carraresjoined with 
 his regiment, instead of standing aloof at this 
 critical moment, the Spaniards would have been 
 obliged to retreat ; but be this as it may, the 
 battle was lost, the Patriots leaving on the 
 field more than 1000 in killed and wounded. 
 Kancagua was taken immediate possession of, 
 the Patriots dispersed, and the Carrares with 
 their regiment plundered the churches, and 
 levying contributions, crofTed the Cordilleras, 
 and reached Mendoza in safety, with booty to 
 art immense amount, leaving theunhappy coun- 
 try to her fate. St Jago, the Capital, inftead 
 of making resistance, erected triumphal 
 
112 
 
 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 arches for the victor, and strewed flowers be- 
 fore him as he entered. Thus was a country, 
 which, for four years had breathed the pure 
 air of liberty and freedom, subjugated, and 
 they may, with great propriety, date the 
 epoch of their new slavery, from the period of 
 their inconsiderate treaty ofChilan, 
 
^q 9ui ^3iijfi9icl feud difS9y; 'mo, ici ,rbi 
 o}£gu(du8 ,1000391} has \ft3d' ^ 
 
 > Qjfib t ^5>hqoiq iJ59X§ jfjiw ^£111 ^ 
 
 >q aril moil ( ^i3V£lg wan ib:IHo uA 
 

 / 
 
 
 
briton's voyage. 113 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 The time now elapsed subsequent to arriv- 
 ing in Port, had fully compensated for oursuf- 
 erings during our voyage from the Marquesas, 
 and as the ship had also undergone a tolerable 
 refit, we sailed for the port of Callao, where we 
 arrived after touching at Coquimbo, and expe- 
 riencing the finest weather, on the fifth day. 
 
 Callao, the port of Lima, stands on a low 
 narrow neck of land, near the ruins of the old 
 town, and almost level with the sea. This 
 Isthmus, for it can be termed nothing else, 
 with the Island of San Lorensa forms the an- 
 chorage, which is one of the most spacious, 
 and beautiful in the world ; and as the wind is 
 never tempestuous or strong, excepting when 
 indicative of an Earthquake, ships may an- 
 chor, or moor in the greatest safety with a 
 rope or hawser of comparatively small size. 
 The Jutty, or landing place, is formed by a 
 ship which was run on shore for that purpose, 
 so that the surf being completely broken, 
 boats are at all times enabled to land, and lie 
 then, with as much security as if in a still 
 
 Q 
 
I I%dLu i 
 
 if' /<fw- of J_nma, frvm (<)a£t 
 
 WSkP of C Jl L L A 
 
114 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 i th-T 
 pond. To this place there are several streams 
 of water brought for the conveniency of ships, 
 which can always be supplied with the greatest 
 expedition. 
 
 The present town of Callao, does not 
 amount to more than 300 houses, which are, 
 like those of Paita, built of bamboo and mud ; 
 they are equally mean in their appearance, and 
 from the numberof sailors which are constant- 
 ly here, the greater part of them are occupied 
 for public houses, or shops retailing Agua dent 
 or spirit of the country. 
 
 The custom house is situated at a little dis- 
 tance from the jutty — it is an extensive esta- 
 blishment, and, like those at Valparaiso, all 
 departments are ready to sacrifice the public 
 good, or rather the good of the state, to grati- 
 fy their own insatiable thirst for riches. It 
 has a governor and a numerous train of satel- 
 lites. The trade carried on here is considerable 
 from the different countries of Mexico, Quito, 
 and Chili ; from whence they are supplied 
 with pitch, tar, and sulphur, with wines, spi- 
 rits, wood, cocoa, and Guayaquil hats. — Corn, 
 hemp, cordage, hides, &c. &c. are generally 
 imported from Chili, and from the Island of 
 Chiloe the woolen manufactures of the na- 
 tives, such as the poncho, and rugs ; some of 
 the latter are curious from the strange figures 
 
BRITON'S mm I'll 
 
 represented, and are generally ufed as carpets for 
 the ladies to re It their feet on. Sugar, coffee, 
 chocolate, and peruvian bark, are the princi- 
 pal articles exported. For the protection of 
 the roadltead there are thiee batteries, one of 
 which is of o;reat extent and ttroriff. In the 
 centre is a chapel, the refidence of the Gover- 
 nor, and soldiers' barracks: and under the 
 baftions, which are bomb proof, is fufficient 
 room to contain the pricipal part of the Spani- 
 ards, or people to the number of 6 or 7000. 
 The fmaller ones are at a fmall diftance to the 
 North, and South, each forming a crefcent 
 projecting to the sea, and mounting in barbet 
 six long pieces ot ordnance. 
 
 The importance of thefe batteries, as a de- 
 fence, or guard for Lima is but little, for (hip- 
 ping may anchor, and troops land much out of 
 the range of (hot from their longeft pieces ; 
 and as the wells of the garrifon contain no- 
 thing but water, toobrackifh for long, or con- 
 ftant ufe, their prefent fupply, which is 
 brought in a canal from the river Lima, can 
 be inftantly flopped, which must inevitably 
 reduce it in a fhort period. I understood 
 they had tried every method, but in vain, to 
 prevent fea water from penetrating, and are 
 about to make frefh attempts ; but, in my opi- 
 nion, if I may judge from the local situation 
 
116 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 of the place it will be as fruitless as their for- 
 mer ones, for the isthmus is narrow, and the 
 ground where it stands is the ruins of ancient 
 Callao, which was about the year 174-0 swal- 
 lowed by one of those terrible convulsions of 
 nature, so common in that country. The old 
 ruins to a great extent are quite vifible, info- 
 much that feveral of the arches of different 
 churches are now above the surface. Theysqr 
 appear to have gone down bodily, and but 
 little out of :? perpendicular ; the one under 
 which I went, itOOd perfectly erect. 
 
 In digging the trenches of the batteries, ma«te 
 ny thousand sculls have been taken up, which 
 are, with other bones, continually carried un*fl* 
 derthe roofs of thefeonce splendid sanctuaries, 
 and there deposited. The country near Cal- 
 lao is very level, and the earth contains such 
 an abundance of nitre, that at many places 
 the ground is covered with great quantities 
 naturally chryftalized ; there is a great deal 
 made in the neighbourhood, but particularly 
 at Lima. The village of Bella Villa, or Belle 
 View, ftands in a pretty fituation, and is an 
 agreeable walk in the cool of the evening from 
 the Port. The road leading to Lima is very 
 commodious and (Iraight, has a wall of mud 
 on each fide, and the city, which is feven miles 3 
 from the port, being only 300 feet above the sea, 
 
BRITON-' 8 . V O Y A GE . 1 1 7 
 
 the ascent is hardly perceptible; on the con* 
 trary, there is so great a deception, that either . 
 going to, or coming from, it has the appearance 
 of a descent. 
 
 At about four miles on the road, trees have 
 been planted on each fide, which, with the 
 gardens being conftantly in bloom for some, 
 fruit or other, makes the entrance into Lima 
 peculiarly delightful. j B W03re 91E asfloim! 
 
 For the space of two miles from the gates 
 there are alio walks with feats on cither fide, at 
 convenient diftances, for the accommodation 
 of the public, and during the evening they are 
 generally frequented by the falhionable part of 
 the inhabitants, either in their calafhes or 
 coaches, or on foot. 
 
 By this road then, and under a large, but 
 n at very magnificent archway, , you enter 
 the city of Lima, celebrated for its great riches, 
 and having had one of its ftreets paved with 
 ingots of silver, as well as having for its foun- 
 der the great Francifeo Pizzero, who it seems 
 caused it to be begun, either in the year ofour 
 Lord 1534, or 153o\ It is, like moll of the 
 other towns founded by the Spaniards, laid 
 out in squares of 150 yards each way, with 
 streets of a proportional width, crossing each 
 other at right angles. Those running from 
 East to West, have a conftant ltream of water > 
 and as the descent is sufficient, all the dirt, 
 
US A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 which, otherwise would be offenfive, is carried 
 off. Those going from North to South do not 
 poffess this advantage. In this city, it being 
 the Spanish Capital of the Peruvian dominions, 
 is the residence of the Viceroy, who may in 
 every sense be considered as an absolute mo- 
 narch. 
 
 The Prefident of Chili is subservient to him, 
 but from the diftance which separates them, 
 he is precluded from having much controul 
 over his actions. The Marquis of Concordia 
 was then the Viceroy of Peru, and Ofibrio, the 
 Prefident of Chili. 
 
 The extent of this city may be estimated to be 
 nearly eight miles in circumference, including 
 the suburb on the north fide of the river, or 
 about 2 miles 3 quarters in length, and a mile 
 and half in width. Its fortification confifts, 
 merely of a wall built of unburnt bricks, from 
 15 to 20 feet high, and nearly as many thick, 
 with baftions flanking each other at a diftance 
 not exceeding two hundred yards. 
 
 The width of the bread work from the in- 
 fide extremity of the parapet, is by no means 
 adequate to permit the mounting of cannon, 
 and it appears evident to have been intended 
 only to protect the city from the incurfions of, 
 or being surprized by the Indians. 
 
 According to Frazier, whose plan, as well 
 as description of the place, I found to be ex- 
 
briton's voyage. 119 
 
 Cjeedingly correct, it was built in 1685 by 
 John Ramond a Flemifh Pried in the Viceroy- 
 fliip of the Dukede la Plata. 
 
 It is now very neglecled, and out of repair, 
 but the disaffecled ftate of the country seems to 
 have created some juft alarm among the Spa- 
 niards, and the Marquis of Concordia has or- 
 dered feveral gateways to be repaired, and the 
 wall to be put in a proper ftate of defence ; but 
 its great ftate of disorganization precludes its 
 being accompliflied in arry reasonable time. 
 It pofTefles no kind of ditch, or out-works. 
 
 At about 150 yards, or one square from 
 the bridge, is the Placa Real, or Royal Square, 
 in the centre of which are the remains ofan ele- 
 gant brass fountain ; several of the lions with 
 which it was embellifhed, as well as part of the 
 statue of Fame ftill remain. The water is 
 thrown to a considerable height, and the basin 
 is sufficiently spacious for it to fall within its 
 margin. On the eaft side of this square is the 
 the cathedral, and palace of the bifhop. The 
 Viceroy's eftablifhment occupies the North 
 fide ; the Weft is taken up by the court of 
 juftice, council house, and prison, with a row 
 of arches, which are continued throughout the 
 South side, and under them are shops of vari- 
 ous descriptions. There is a market held in 
 this square, but it cannot boaft of any particu- 
 lar excellence. 
 
120 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 "jmoebnad £ sud bnz ^onegsfo \o infoq n- 
 
 The Cathedral does not polTess any external 
 3ft J rtiTtnw to qo7 or * ' t <rr//Gj 
 
 beauty ; but the splendour, magnificence, and 
 
 riches of the interior can alone be conceived. 
 The enchanted palaces as described in the fai- 
 ry tales, recurred to my memory the inftant I 
 enteied this elegant sanctuary. The great al- 
 tar, (landing at the Eaft-end, is modern, and the 
 columns numerous as they are, together with 
 every other part, are covered with silver in 
 about the thickness of a dollar, and when lit 
 up, for the performance of any particular ce- 
 remony, its brilliant and beautiful appearance 
 cannot be exceeded. Don Mathias Maftro, a 
 Pried, was the ..architect. He is also a painter 
 of considerable merit. The various altars on 
 either side, are equalin richnessif not in beau- 
 ty, to the one I have mentioned. The Church 
 of San Auguftin may be considered the next 
 in beauty, by many I daresay superior to the 
 Cathedral ; all the altars are superbly orna- 
 mented, and several are of incalculable value, 
 but particularly the one, erected at the entire ex- 
 pence of the Silversmiths, which is covered with 
 solid metal, of more than common thickness, 
 it only required a few additional ornaments 
 which were in a ltate of readiness, to make it 
 complete. 
 
 This church contains some excellent paint- 
 ings. San Domingo also vies with the others 
 
Briton's voyage. 121 
 
 in point of elegance, and has a handsome 
 
 tower, of great height, at the top of which the 
 on_B 9DCi90nfn , Q£m tfiohntilci? arft iiiri 
 
 traveller may enjoy a moft extensive, pictu- 
 resque, and interefting pfospecl ; and as it is 
 difficult for a ftranger to find his way through 
 the town, I would recommend him to visit 
 this tower the firft thing, as, from a single look 
 he will receive more information relative to 
 the place, than from studying the Lima direc- 
 tory a month. 
 
 As the city contains upwards of fifty 
 Churches, and Chapels, the reader will see, 
 the impoflibility of my bringing all before him, 
 and consider it sufficient, if, in addition to 
 those I have already mentioned, "I say that 
 S&n Francisco with with La Conception, and 
 ' La Mercy are the mofl: extensive, as well as 
 handsome; although none of the others are 
 in the leaft deficient in riches, and splendor. 
 
 The monafteries here, are both numerous 
 and spacious, and I should suppose of the dif- 
 ferent orders there cannot be less than eight- 
 teen or twenty, and some among them con- 
 
 8197HS- 
 
 tain three or four squares, or apiece of ground 
 equal at leaft to six acres. 
 
 The largeft of those is, of the Franciscan 
 order, and contains from 1200 to 1500 Friars. 
 
 The Auguftins come next, and T think the 
 ■'X3 9fno3 iniBiE i.idoeidT 
 
129 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 monaftery itfelf, although not fo large, is much 
 . more elegant than the former ; the number of 
 monks exceed a thousand. These have two 
 or three fmaller ones in different parts of the 
 city. There are also numerous eftablifhments 
 of this nature tinder the various denominations 
 of Dominicans, Benedictines, Mercerarians, 
 &c. &c. and are' generally found in the molt 
 defirable and advantageous situations. 
 
 Of convents for nuns, there are alfo feveral, 
 and of great extent : but those of St. Clare, 
 the Carmelites, and the Incarnation are the 
 principal ones of note. 
 
 The number of men wearing the monadic 
 habit, I was affured exceeded 10,000, and of 
 women nearly 6,000, which may be confider- 
 ed nearly one sixth of the population of the 
 place. Besides the monks, there are a nume- 
 rous train of Clerigos, a fort of parifli Priefts, 
 who, with the former poffess a life of celiba- 
 cy, but, if dete&ed in any frailties of nature, 
 their punifhment is not fo exemplary ; their 
 oaths being only against matrimony. 
 
 It may be imagined perhaps, in a place, 
 where the holy minifters of religion are so nu- 
 merous — where sanctuaries for its perfor- 
 mance are so splendid, that piety and devotion 
 would be predominant features, but the most 
 depraved heart is often concealed under this 
 
briton's voyage. 123 
 
 specious covering, and I am fully jultifietl in 
 saying that it is no where more so than here ; 
 for the cloi Iters of both sexe?, with a few excep- 
 tions, inftead of being the sacred habitation of 
 piety, abilinence, and resignation, is that of 
 riotous living, debauchery, libertinism, and 
 licentiousness. Some of the Fri?rs even boaft 
 of their manifold conquers, and numerous 
 progeny ; and in many inftances, even that 
 small femblance of religion which they affume 
 occafionally, is entirely fhaken off. " The 
 penitent women" says Frazier il have also a 
 place of retreat, but I- do think not it very full, 
 because of the little scruple, they make in that 
 country of libertinism, and the little care that 
 is taken to curb it." 
 
 He could not have come toamorejuft con- 
 clusion, and as there appears to have been but 
 little, reform, if any at all, in their moral lives 
 subfequent to that period, we may be led to 
 fuppofe that there are at prefent many vacan- 
 cies in this eilablimment, which is known by 
 the name of las Amparadas de la Conception, 
 or the protected of the Conception. 
 
 In the university of this place, there are fe- 
 veral colleges, formed on very liberal princi- 
 ples, but now much neglected. Formerly 
 they contain or had attached to them, more 
 than 150'profeiTors of Divinity, Law, Phyfic a 
 
124 A NARRATIVE OP THE 
 
 and Philosophy, and feveral thousand ftudents 
 were inftructed in every branch of literature, 
 but at prefent the number of teachers as well 
 as scholars are considerably reduced, and 
 science (if there was ever any there) feems to 
 have wholly deferted the walls, for with the 
 exception of Latin, and a little divinity, there 
 is nothing taught. 
 
 The asylum for Lunatics in this city, is very 
 extensive and supported by voluntary contri- 
 butions. It was exceedingly full when I went 
 over it, and every possible attention appeared 
 to be paid to the comfort of the patients. 
 
 The Viceroy is at the head of the Royal 
 Court, and, if he choses, may preside, but 
 this seldom occurs, except in matters of the 
 greateft importance, and where the safety of 
 the ftate may be affe&ed. 
 
 Sixteen Judges, four Magiftrates, two At- 
 torney Generals, and two or three others of 
 less note, making in all 2.5 or 26, form this 
 August Tribunal, which with the exception of 
 the Seraphic Inquisition, is paramount to all 
 others. Subservient to this, there are several 
 other courts, such as the Court of Juftice, Cri- 
 minal Court, Exchequer, Chancery, &c. 
 There is also a Mayor, and Aldermen, who 
 have a Court for the punifhment of offences 
 within their jurisdiction, and not cognisable 
 
BRITON'S VOYAGE. ] 2 5 
 
 by the others, It will be needless for me to 
 say that where Prieftcraft has taken so deep 
 root, there are spiritual Courts in abundance ; 
 but the rnoft grievous, as well as terrific, 
 tS the Inquisition, againft whose decision 
 there is no appeal, and from whose prisons no 
 one, let him be never so innocent, is safe. The 
 accused is always kept in ignorance of his ac- 
 cuser, nor has he the privilege allowed him of 
 confronting any of the witnesses, which may 
 suborned againlt him. 
 
 Many of the Prieilswho are in favor of this 
 deteftable eftabliihment, would fain persuade 
 you that its abolition was productive of a re- 
 gret in the public mind, which its re-eitablifh- 
 ment alone has been able to allay : but from 
 what I could learn, I am impressed with a ve- 
 ry different opinion, and L think the conduct 
 demon flrated by the mob, when the Viceroy 
 withheld the order for the entire suspensions 
 of its functions, is sufficient to bear me out. 
 The Marquis of Concordia had received such 
 orders from the Cortes of Spain, but being 
 himself a favorite of the institution he with- 
 held putting it in force for nearly six months, 
 and also ftrove to conceal that such orders had 
 really arrived ; however, it at length became 
 known, when the public^being no longer able 
 
 ■ 
 
126 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 to smother their indignation, joined in one fu- 
 rious mob, burit open the gates, and not re- 
 garding even their immediate saints, demolim- 
 ed every ensign of Inquisitorial power. The 
 Council Chamber was deftroyed — the Images 
 broken — their records thrown in the ftreets — 
 the secret prisons were explored, the innocent 
 immured therein set at liberty ; and perhaps, 
 had the officers of this seraphic and illustrious 
 order been present, they would have experi- 
 enced that punifhment which was inflicted on 
 the emblems of their tyranny. 
 
 Thus much was related to me by a gentle- 
 man who was conspicuous in the affair, and 
 willing to possess himself of their records, he 
 broke open a desk, which luckily contained 
 what he wanted. These proved to be manu- 
 script trials, confeftions, and allegations, but 
 when the order came for the re-establishment 
 of this tribunal, he, dreading lest these docu- 
 ments might be found upon him, destroyed 
 the greatest part, and was about to set fire to 
 the last bundle, when I entered his room. I 
 saw they were old manuscripts, and without 
 afking their contents, or crime they had com- 
 mitted, risqued them from their impending 
 danger, and have them now in my poffeffion. 
 They contain chiefly allegations againft the 
 
briton's voyage. 127 
 
 Friars for libertinism, and immorality, and 
 even of offering violence to women to whom 
 they have been called as spiritual confessors. 
 
 The Inquisition is situate at the eaft part of 
 the city, and occupies more than one square. 
 It has three entrances, but the moll considera- 
 ble one is in the centre, the others being chief- 
 ly attached to the residences of it? principal 
 officers. The Council Chamber mull have been 
 a superb room, and the offices attached to it 
 have the appearance of having been once splen- 
 did. Behind these, come the carceles secretos, 
 or the secret prisons, which are infinitely more 
 miserable than the others are elegant. Each 
 of these gloomy dungeons, where so many in- 
 nocent persons have lingered a life of pain, 
 and wretchedness, and of whose fate their 
 friends have been ignorant, is about 8 or 10 
 feet square, and nearly 20 feet high, having 
 at the top a small door, admitting as small a 
 portion of light as air, and which is not at 
 their own disposal, nor can they enjoy it, but 
 at the caprice of those in whose charge they 
 are, and is at no period more than sufficient 
 for them to discern some figure of torment 
 which may be on the wall, for the purpose of 
 putting the unhappy victim in mind of death 
 or a frightful futurity. 
 
 The different Courts of Inquisition bearing 
 
12S A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 so nice affinity to each other, in their arrange- 
 ments, mode of procedure, &c that I cannot 
 here resift offering to the notice of the reader 
 a few abridged extracts from Monsieur Dellon, 
 and I hope they will not not prove uninterest- 
 ing. 
 
 "During the months of November and De- 
 cember, I heard every morning the fhrieks of 
 the unfortunate victims, who were undergo- 
 ing the Queftion.* The Auto da fee\ as I 
 . 
 
 * The Question evidently appears to be the Torture, of 
 which there are three different sorts, and the first being 
 the most exquisite, is called the Queen of Torture. The 
 criminal's hands being tied behind his back, and fastened 
 to a rope, which, by means of four cords drawn over pul- 
 lies at each corner of a lofty room, he is hoisted up to the 
 ceiling in an instant, when he is again let down within a 
 few inches of the ground. This is thrice repeated, and by 
 the sudden jirks all his bones are dislocated. In this state 
 he hangs until he expires, or confesses. 
 
 2d. Torture.-r-Thc instrument is something like a smith's 
 anyil, with a spike not very sharp at the top. Ropes as 
 in the former instance, are from the corners of the room 
 attached to the criminal's legs and arms ; he is drawn up a 
 little, and is then let down with his back bone exactly upon 
 the spike of iron where the whole of his weight rests. 
 
 3d. Torture. — Is what they term a slight Torture, and 
 applied only to women. Matches of tow and pitch are 
 wrapped round their hands, and set on fire until the flesh 
 is consumed See Mr. Bower's account of the Inquisi- 
 tion at Maccrata. 
 
briton's voyage. 129 
 
 remember to lia\e heard, was generally cele- 
 brated on the first Sunday in Advent, because 
 the service read on that day is part ot the Gos- 
 pel, - touching on the last judgment, ind the 
 Inquisitors pretend by this ceremony to exhi- 
 bit a -lively emblem of that awful event. The 
 profound silence within the walls enabled me 
 to count the number of doors open at the, time 
 of meals, and I was convinced of there being 
 many prisoners. Advent passed, and I pre- 
 pared myself to pass another year in melan- 
 choly captivity. On the llth Jan. I was 
 aroused from my despair. My prison door 
 was opened, the Alciade presented me with a 
 habit, and left me with a light in my dungeon. 
 The guard came ahout two o'clock, and led me 
 into a long gallery, where I found the compa- 
 nions of my fate ranged against the wall, and 
 had it not been for the movement of the eyes r 
 they would have resembled itatues rather than 
 animated beings. I was placed amongft this 
 melancholy band; those condemned 10 be 
 burnt, were with their confessors in another 
 part of the room— the women were in a room 
 adjoining — we here received a large wax can- 
 dle, and a yellow dress, with the cross of Saint 
 Andrew, painted before and behind, it is call- 
 ed the San Benito. To relapsed -heretics the 
 Samarra was given, the colour of which was 
 s 
 
130 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 grey, and on it was was painted the portrait of 
 the sufferer surrounded with torches, flames, 
 and devils. The Carrochas, or caps of past- 
 board, of a conical fhape, covered with de- 
 mons and fire, was then presented them. It 
 was about sun-rise when the great bell of the 
 Cathedral announced to the people ofGoathe 
 auguft ceremony of the Auto da Fee, and we 
 were led from the gallery into the great hall, 
 one by one, and there given in charge of Par- 
 rains or godfathers, who were to guard us to 
 the place of execution. With them we went 
 forth to the street, where I saw that the pro- 
 ceflion commenced by Dominican Friars, in 
 honour to San Dominic, the founder of the 
 Holy Tribunal. As I was not one of the lead 
 guilty, I did not go foremost — we walked 
 bear-footed through the ftreets, and the fharp 
 nones wounded my tender feet dreadfully, and 
 caused the blood to ftream. The crowd of 
 spectators was innumerable. Arrived at the 
 church of St. Francis, the Inquisitor and 
 Counsel were on one fide the altar, the Viceroy, 
 and Court on the other. The prisoners were 
 now seated, and an Auguftin Monk mounted 
 the pulpit, and preached for half an hour, and 
 I could not help noticing the comparison he 
 drew between the Inquisition and Noah's Ark, 
 in which he made this diflinction, that the 
 
briton's voyage. 131 
 
 creatures which entered the Ark, left it on the 
 ceflTation of the deluge with their original pro- 
 perties, whereas the Inquisition had this sin- 
 gular charactereftie, that those who came 
 within its walls, cruel as wolves, and fierce as 
 lions, went forth gentle as lambs. The sen- 
 tences were next read, and my joy at hearing 
 I was not to be burnt, but serve in the gallies, 
 was extreme. The Prieft, with a wand, gave 
 me in turn a stroke on the breast and released 
 me from excommunication. Here I can- 
 not resiit mentioning a circumftance which 
 will shew their excessive superstition in mat- 
 ters relating to the Inquisition. During the 
 proceflion the person who was my godfather 
 (though I frequently addressed him) would 
 not speak to me, and even refused me a pinch 
 of snuff, so apprehensive was he that in so do- 
 ing he should participate in the censure under 
 which he conceived me to lie ; but the mo- 
 ment I was absolved, he embraced me, present- 
 ed me his snuffbox, and told me that thence- 
 forth he mould confider me as a brother. The 
 victims, deftined to be immolated, were now 
 brought forth, and receiving a blow upon the 
 bread to signify they were abandoned, they 
 were led away to the bank of the river where 
 the Viceroy, and Court were affembled, and 
 configned to the faggots which had been pre- 
 viously prepared." 
 
132 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 During the period I was employed in visiting 
 this place, in which so many innocent beings 
 have been the victims of the most remorseless 
 tyranny ; the emphatic words of Dr. Bucha- 
 nan, in his Christian researches in Asia, recur- 
 red to my memory, and I pondered on the 
 mysterious dispensation which permitted the 
 Minifters of the Inquisition, with their racks, 
 and flames, to visit these lands before the he- 
 ralds of peace. 
 
 The mint is an eftablifhment of the greatest 
 importance both to the ftate as well as to the 
 individual. It is exceedingly extensive, and a 
 very considerable number of men are continu- 
 ally employed, either immediately at the com- 
 pletion of the different coins, or separating the 
 gold from the earth. This process is rather 
 long, and effe6led by quicksilver. The silver 
 is generally brought from the mines in Dabs of 
 about 120to220lbs weight, and the propor- 
 tion of copper to one of the latter is 25ibs. 
 which is added in melting. 
 The furnace in which this process takes place, 
 is of clay, and the heat produced from char- 
 coal, blown by a double pair of large bellows. 
 When the metal is sufficiently united, it is run 
 into moulds nearly a quarter of an inch deep, 
 from whence it is conveyed to the machinery, 
 which is of inferior powers, but passing through 
 
briton's voyage. 133 
 
 rollers, it is reduced to the required thickness, 
 or so that the punch will cut out the exact 
 weight of the coin to be produced. 
 
 After tins, the edge is milled, when it is in a 
 ftate for taking the impreUion, which is the fl- 
 nifhing ftroke, and is performed by means of a 
 itamp, whose power appears to be similar to 
 that of our modern printing preffes. This de- 
 partment may be confidered a Royalty of it- 
 self, as the governor is independent of the 
 Viceroy within its walls, and can order the, ex- 
 ecution of any person without form, trial, or 
 sanction, from another power. There are ma- 
 ny clerks who have handsome salaries. 
 
 At the diftance -of a mile and a half in the 
 Eastern direction of the city there is an exten- 
 sive powder manufactory, and they boa ft of 
 its producing the beft article of this kind in the 
 world, and I should not be surprized if it was 
 so, because the whole of its ingredients are 
 found here in great abundance, Near this 
 place, is the Pantheon de lbs Meurtos, or the 
 Pantheon of the dead, which has so handsome 
 and lively appearance that a ftranger would 
 not be impressed with an idea of its being the 
 sacred repository of those who are no more. 
 
 The river Limac, or Lima, is very incon- 
 siderable, except iq the season when the great- 
 
134 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 est proportion of snow melts. At all other 
 periods, it is fordable, and at all places. 
 
 Crofting the bridge, which is not handsome, 
 and continuing along the ftreet, you are led to 
 the Almeada, or a public walk, so delightful- 
 ly (haded by groves of orange trees, that the 
 rays of the sun are always broken, and the 
 odour from the trees, at all times agreeable. 
 It is most frequented on Sunday evenings, but 
 wherever the Viceroy goes he is sure to take 
 with him a fafhionable retinue as well as a con- 
 course of the mobility. 
 
 On this side the river, is the Torus, or Am- 
 phitheatre, for the exhibition of the bull fights, 
 and it is said to be sufficiently spacious to contain 
 20,000 people, and from the number I saw 
 there, I have no reason to doubt it. This bru- 
 tal amusement, so disgraceful to a civilized 
 power, is here held in high eftimation, and is 
 generally performed during the months of Ja- 
 nuary, February, and March. The manner 
 in which the poor animals are fought, are vari- 
 ous, but, I will give as correct an outline of 
 what I saw as I am able. The number of bulls 
 torturedfor one day's amusement and gratifica- 
 tion, is confined to a score. Those are placed 
 the night preceding the fight in a house, or 
 yard appropriated to that use, from whence 
 
 . J 
 
briton's voyage. 135 
 
 they are taken separately, into a flail of grate 
 work, with a door opening into the Theatre. 
 In this place they undergo in their turn the 
 cruel ordeal of being ornamented with fantas- 
 tic articles of finery, sewn either to the fkin, or 
 tacked with small nails to the horns, squibs too 
 of gunpowder are set off the inftant the door 
 opens when the infuriated creature, eager to 
 be free from one torture ru flies upon another, 
 for it is generally affailed by a fhower of darts, 
 carrying with them crackers which explode on 
 fticking in the fkin. In this wild ftate it is 
 attacked by a gladiator on horseback, who dis- 
 plays great agility in his evading the animal; 
 others now advance, and after a few turns the 
 attractive part of this fascinating amusement 
 begins. These men are armed with long 
 spears, and pafTing the bull, make a thruft at 
 the sinews of the neck, but the inftrument of- 
 tener lodges before the fhoulder, and it is not 
 unfrequent to see the handles of seven or eight 
 iticking up before the fhoulder, the blades hav- 
 ing perforated the animal. In this ftate, if it 
 be what they call a good bull, it will continue 
 to fight, until faint from the loss of blood, it 
 drops, when ceasing to afford more amusement, 
 it is dispatched and withdrawn from the The- 
 atre. The next mode is by a gladiator on 
 foot who carries a red flag, and is armed with 
 
105 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 a small sword, and which is by far the lead 
 cruel, for, if he be at ail expert, the animal 
 ceases to exilt ac a iingle blow. The Indian 
 mode is peculiar to themselves, and not less 
 barbarous than the first. They are armed 
 with spears, and about six forminga line, march 
 boldly towards the bull, who often ftands at 
 bay, and when irritated by the arrows before 
 described, he plunges upon them, they open, 
 and in patting he receives two or three wea- 
 pons in the neck ; with which he returns, and 
 undergoing the same experiment several times 
 is killed. These acts of cruelty are to the Li- 
 menans, the greater! treat that can be afforded. 
 It is their '''■feast of reason and their fow of 
 soul." On one of the animals receiving a 
 blow, which draws it from the object of its 
 pursuit, or to cause it to ftagger, or drop, the 
 Theatre resounds with the most rapturous ap- 
 plauses ; but there is one thing to be said, — 
 they are impartial inbeftowing it, for the plau- 
 dits, on the bull, if he maims, or even kills a 
 man, are not less reiterated, than if, by a ju- 
 dicious blow, the gladiator had himself gained 
 the prize. 
 
 But even where morality, which is the 
 ground work of every other perfection, is in so 
 little repute, it is ftill to be wondered at, that 
 any of the human race (leaving civilization out 
 
briton's voyage. 137 
 
 of the queftion) can be so deftitute ofhumsni- 
 ty. It was the ladies who most excited my 
 surprize, for with them those brutal shouts of 
 approbation seemed to emanate ; yet ftrange 
 to relate they seemed in every other respecl, 
 as far as I could perceive, good natured, fa- 
 cetious, and agreeable. The Theatre ftands 
 in. the city ; it is spacious, but not elegant, 
 and the dancing, although not at all in unison 
 with the feelings of Englifh modefty, is con- 
 fidered delightful. 
 
 There is nothing peculiar in the dress of 
 the Limenans, excepting the morning or walk- 
 ing habit of the ladies, which at firft has a 
 ftrange and disagreeable appearance, but when 
 the eye becomes accuftomed to it, this impres- 
 sion wears off, and what so many at firft have 
 thought disgufting, they have afterwards been 
 reconciled to. This dress consifts of a kind of 
 petticoat so nicely plaited, that it will ftand 
 upright, and a hood tied round the waift, but 
 is sufficiently large to be brought over the 
 head, which, with the exception of one eye, is 
 entirely enveloped. Nothing can facilitate 
 an intrigue more than this, because the hus- 
 band may meet his wife, the lover his sweet- 
 heart, and yet be ignorant of the circum- 
 ftance. 
 
 The mountains immediately in the vicinity 
 x 
 
13$ A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 of Lima are of little confideration, St. Chrifto- 
 val alone being woithy of notice. This moun- 
 tain is high, and difficult of access, but as- 
 cended to the chapel, or hermitage on the 
 summit, the view it affords both of the city, 
 and country, even to the Andes, is truly beau- 
 tiful. 
 
 The squares which compose the town are 
 divided, and subdivided by houses built in 
 squares, and which are generally of two fto- 
 ries. Their walls are very thick, and from the 
 bricks being long, unburnt, and composed of 
 elaflic materials, they are calculated the bet- 
 ter to withftand the violent fhocks of earth- 
 quakes, which prevail to a greater or less de- 
 gree , about the months of December and Ja- 
 nuary. The houses are built on the moftairy 
 principle, are spacious, and handsome, but, 
 from the brick floors, together with mats, and 
 every other harbour for fleas, their residences 
 are exceedingly uncomfortable to an Englifh- 
 man ; nor has long habit caused the people 
 themselves to be unsusceptible to the annoy- 
 ance of these insects, for they are always pre- 
 pared with a piece of fleecy cloth about 4 
 inches wide, twilled into little tags, and when- 
 ever they feel one tickling* (which is very fre- 
 quently) this trap is applied and often with 
 great fuccess. They are not all scrupulous 
 
 ■ 
 
-ofti'i 
 
 briton's voyage. 139 
 
 about catching these little tormentors, or put- 
 ting them to death, let the company be never 
 so numerous or splendid, nor do I believe by 
 doing it they are conscious of any transgreiTion 
 on the (trict rules of modesty. Most of the la- 
 dies understand the Piano and Psaltery, and 
 all paffionately fond of dancing. There are 
 many dances peculiar to the several kingdoms 
 of South America, as in Peru that of Choco- 
 latte, and in Chili, la Balsa de Tierra. The for- 
 mer has much the greateft portion of modefty, 
 and as well as the latter, is performed by two 
 people only. 
 
 The population of Lima, consists of Spaniards, 
 Creoles, native Indians, and African slaves, and 
 in either their manners, or customs, there is no- 
 thing very peculiar, as the subordinate clafFes 
 follow the fafhion most predominant among the 
 Spaniards. Their hours of visiting, commence 
 in the cool of the evening, and continue to a 
 late hour in the night. The guests are re- 
 frefhed with ices, lemonade, and preserves ; and 
 amused with either singing, accompanied with 
 the guittar or psaltery, or dancing, to which 
 may be added the- more faftiionable accom- 
 plishment of gambling. A: their meaisthey have 
 a prodigious number of dishes, and generally 
 partake h small portion of ^ach; a stranger 
 therefore if he studies his own comfort should 
 
MO A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 be careful not to dine entirely from the first nr 
 second course, for the importunity he will 
 meet with, to partake of the several subsequent 
 ones will be so repeated, as to constrain him 
 to commence again, however much it may be 
 against his inclination. Indeed they are very 
 hospitable, and betray great anxiety to have 
 the visits of strangers, and use every means to- 
 rnake that visit agreeable. The spirit of gal- 
 lantry is no where carried to a greater extent 
 than in Lima, and a man of the most advanced 
 age, enters the list with the young, gay, and 
 giddy. This is very conspicuous at their 
 routes, and must be productive of considera- 
 ble amusement to any stranger. Their enter- 
 tainments, or galas are splendid, and arranged 
 with greattaste; in fa£t, there is such a degree 
 of emulation and spirit ofrivalry amongft the 
 fair sex, that they study to eclipse one another 
 in the beauty, magnificence, and profusion of 
 their preparations. The supper having been 
 removed, and nothing but the dessert, which is 
 comprised of the choisest fruits, and confec- 
 tionary in all its various forms and clalTes re- 
 maining, the party stand prepared for the at- 
 tack, and at a given signal the work of devas- 
 tation commences, when all is the most com- 
 plete confusion. Pyramids torn to their foun- 
 dation — Pagodas upset — Images broken, and 
 
briton's voyage. 141 
 
 in this extraordinary scramble, they are intent 
 not on eating-, but on collecting as great a 
 portion as poiTible, which is secured either in 
 pockets, handkerchiefs, or hats, and he who on 
 the following day presents the greatest num* 
 ber of young ladies with a proper fhare of the 
 entertainment, isconfidered of the greatest gal- 
 lantry ; and I have seen the eyes of an old Don 
 of eighty years of age, sparkle with the fire of 
 satisfaction at displaying his booty, and con- 
 templating the pleasure which awaited him in 
 the morning, when his favorite mistrefies 
 would become the fharers of his trophies. 
 
 Prior to the conquest of Peru by the Spaniards, 
 the only animal which had been domefticated, 
 and used to carry a burden, was the lama, but 
 fince the introduction of horses, and mules, It 
 has gradually been neglected, and is now only 
 used by some of the lower Indians in the in- 
 terior. The lama, in fhape somewhat resem- 
 bles the camel, but its hair, or wool is prodigi- 
 ously long, and of a very fine texture. It is 
 calculated to carry a burden not exceeding a 
 hundred pounds, travels very ftately at his own 
 rate, and when tired, stops of his own accord, 
 nor is it poffible the guide or drivers can make 
 it resume its journey until it has refted suffici- 
 ently. In their wild ftate tfrey are exceeding- 
 ly fleet, and inhabit the most mountainous and 
 
142 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 rocky places. I he Guanaca is a species or the 
 lama, smaller and but seldom used to carry a 
 load. It is an inhabitant of the Andes, and 
 is most plentiful in the kingdom of Chili. Like 
 sheep, they do not polTess upper teeth, and 
 having a valve or aperture in the upper lip, 
 they emit through it with considerable force, 
 for their defence, when attacked or irritated, a 
 slimy sour liquid. 
 
 Almost every kind of fruit is found here in 
 the greateft abundance, as well as perfection ; 
 but those held in the higheft ellimation are 
 the granadellia, and cherymoya ; the latter re- 
 sembles the soursop of the West Indies both 
 in appearance and tafte, but it certainly is much 
 more delicious. 
 
 The temperature of Lima, or in fact the 
 whole extent of the vast coait of South Ameri- 
 ca, when compared to that of the same latitude 
 either on the coast of Brazil or Africa, is ex- 
 ceedingly mild and temperate, the reason of 
 which is so pleasingly described by the learned 
 Dr. Robertson in his general history of Ameri- 
 ca, that I cannot withhold from introducing 
 the following quotation. " While the negro" 
 says the historian " on the coast of Africa, is 
 scorched with unremitting heat, the inhabi- 
 tant of Peru breathes an air equally mild and 
 temperate, and is perpetually shaded under a 
 
BRITON S VOYAGE. 143 
 
 canopy of grey clouds, which intercept the 
 fierce beams of the sun, without obltructinsr his 
 friendly influence.* Along the eastern coast of 
 America, the climate, though more similar to 
 that of the torrid zone in other parts of theearth, 
 is nevertheless considerably milder than in those 
 countries of Asia and Africa, which lie in the 
 same latitude. If from the southern tropic, we 
 continue our progress to the extremity of the 
 American continent, we meet with frozen seas, 
 and countries horrid, barren, and scarcely habi- 
 table for cold, much sooner than in the North. 
 Various causes combine in rendering the 
 climate of America so extremely different from 
 that of the ancient continent. Though the 
 utmoft extent of America, towards the North, 
 be not yet discovered, we know that it ad- 
 vances mnch nearer to the pole than either 
 Europe or Asia. Both these have large seas 
 to' the North, which are open during part of 
 the year; and, even when covered with ice, 
 
 ; . _ 
 
 * Ulloa, the navigator, from whom the Historian takes 
 his authority, is certainly incorrect, for the sun is only ob- 
 scured by clouds, from the period of his entering his 
 Southern Solstice, to the time of his quitting it, when, the 
 clouds disperse, and the sky becomes visible and serene fov 
 the following six months; This I had an opportunity of 
 observing myself. 
 
144 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 the wind that blows over them is less intensely 
 cold, than that which blows overland in the 
 same high latitudes. But in America, the 
 land stretches from the river St. Lawrence to- 
 wards the pole, and spreads out immensely to 
 the west. A chain of enormous mountains, 
 covered with snow and ice, runs through all 
 this dreary region. The wind in pafling over 
 such an extent of high and frozen land, be- 
 comes so impregnated with cold, that it ac- 
 quires a piercing keenness, which it retains in 
 its progress through warmer climates, and it 
 is not entirely mitigated until it reaches the 
 gulph of Mexico. Over all the continent of 
 North America, a north-wefterly wind, and 
 exceifive cold are synonymous terms. Even 
 in the most sultry weather, the moment that 
 the wind veers to that quarter, its penetrating 
 influence is felt in a transition from heat to 
 cold, no less violent than sudden. To this 
 powerful cause, we may ascribe the extraordi- 
 nary dominion of cold, and its violent inroads 
 into the Southern provinces in that part of the 
 globe. Other causes, no less remarkable, di- 
 minish the active power of heat in those parts 
 of the American continent which lie between 
 the tropics. In all that portion of the globe, 
 the wind blows in an invariable direction, 
 from Eaft to Weft. As this wind holds its 
 
briton's voyage. 145 
 
 course across the ancient continent, it arrives 
 at the countries which stretch along the west- 
 ern fhores of Africa, inflamed with all the fiery- 
 particles which it hath collefted from the sul- 
 try plains of Asia, and the burning sands in 
 the African deserts. The coatt of Africa, is, 
 accordingly, the region of the earth which 
 feels the most fervent heat, and is exposed to 
 the unmitigated ardour of the torrid zone. 
 
 But this same wind which brings such an ac- 
 ts - . 
 
 cemon of warmth to the countries lyinjj be- 
 tween the river of Senegal, and Cafraria, tra- 
 verses the Atlantic Ocean, before it reaches 
 the American more. It is cooled in its pas- 
 sage over this vast body of water, and is felt 
 as a refreshing gale along the coast of Brazil, 
 and Guiana, rendering these countries, though 
 among the warmest in America, temperate, 
 when compared with those which lie opposite 
 to them in Africa. As this wind advances in 
 its course, across America, it meets with im- 
 mense plains, covered with impenetrable forefts, 
 or occupied by large rivers, marshes, and Stag- 
 nating waters, where it can recover no conside- 
 rable degree of heat. At length it arrives at 
 the Andes, which run from North to South 
 through the whole continent. In pa fling over 
 their elevated, and frozen summits, it is. so 
 thoroughly cooled, that the greater part of the 
 
 u 
 
14r6 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 countries beyond them, hardly feel the ardour 
 to which they seem exposed by their situa- 
 tion. In the other provinces of America, from 
 Tierra Firme weftward to the Mexican em- 
 pire, the heat of the climate is tempered, in 
 some places, by the elevation of the land 
 above the sea, in others, by their extraordina- 
 ry humidity, and in all, by the enormous 
 mountains scattered over this tracl. The is- 
 lands of America, in the torrid zone, are either 
 small, or mountainous, and are fanned alter- 
 nately by refrefhing sea and land breezes." 
 
 For a considerable extent, along the coafl of 
 Peru, as well as some diftance in the interior, 
 they have no rain, or nothing more than a driz- 
 zle, or small mist, called by the Spaniards nie- 
 bling. In fact, if they mould be visited with 
 a phenomenon of this nature, their houses be- 
 ing of a nature so susceptible to it, it would 
 probably be attended with serious conse- 
 quences. The dews here are very heavy. 
 
 In taking a view of the mines and mineral 
 productions of South America, Potosi, from 
 its celebrity, seems to claim a just priority, 
 not more, from its natural situation, than from 
 the abundance of metal which has been ex- 
 tracted from it. The mines of Potosi are si- 
 tuated in a mountain resembling a sugar loaf, 
 standing in a spacious plain, and at the bot- 
 
briton's voyage. 147 
 
 torn, about a league in circumference. Garul- 
 lasso, the Hiftorian, from whom I take this in- 
 formation, does not give the altitude of Mount 
 Potosi, but leaves us to cenjeclure what it 
 may be from its summit (which is a quarter of 
 a league round) being exceflively cold and fre- 
 quently coveted with snow. From its bearing 
 the Indian name of Puno, signifying a place 
 uninhabitable from cold, we may conclude 
 that the whole of this district, notwithstanding 
 its proximity to the equator, is of a frigid tem- 
 perature. "The climate of Potosi" says an 
 author whose name I cannot well recollect "is 
 so cold, that the Spanish women could not lay 
 in there, without running imminent risk of 
 their lives." 
 
 This mine appears to have been first disco- 
 vered by some Indian servants of the Spani- 
 ards, about 40 years after their entering that 
 country, and at the period, when Gonzales 
 Pizarro had in the neighbourhood, his reparti- 
 mento, or colony of Indians. These people 
 not being able to enjoy the unrestricted plea- 
 sures of their fortune, or conceal it long from 
 their masters, discovered it to them. Subse- 
 quent to which period, it has not only been 
 worked to a o-reat extent, but has also caused 
 a town of considerable population to be built 
 in the neighbourhood, and is now known by 
 
148 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 the name of Potosi. The silver extracted from 
 this mine, at present, is very inconsiderable, 
 the mountain having been worked in so many- 
 places, that it is now quite exhausted. 
 
 The mines of Choco produce Platina.* 
 Those of Carabaya, Kimani near La Paz, Nas- 
 ca, and Tiavaya are the principal gold mines. 
 Vilques, and Huancavilica are famous for their 
 quicksilver. Those ofYauli, Uchumayo, Are- 
 quipa, and Cocctea produce the different ores 
 in all their claffes of silver, copper, lead, iron, 
 and cobalt ; also those of antimony, arsenic, and 
 magnesia. Neither of these mines are at pre- 
 sent worked to any considerable extent, owing 
 to the inferiority of their machinery, but they 
 w r ere in daily expectation of engines, from 
 England, when their works would again be 
 resumed. 
 
 The cities, or towns of most consideration 
 in the kingdom of Peru, are Cuzco, Arequipa, 
 Huancavilica, Truxillo, Tarma. It will be 
 
 * M. Von Humbold has recently presented to the King 
 of Prussia's Cabinet of minerals, the only lump of native 
 platina that is known. He obtained it in 1800 in the soap 
 manufactories of the town of Todda, in the province of Cho- 
 co, in South America. This ingot is of the size of a pige- 
 on's egg, and its absolute weight is 10,386 grains 3 and its 
 specific weight 16,037 grains. 
 
briton's voyage. 149 
 
 hardly necessary to inform the reader, that the 
 former of these is the most ancient, or that it 
 had for its founder, Manco Capac, or the first 
 Inca. This city has been subsequently the 
 royal residence of eleven of his illustrious race, 
 when Atuhuallpa, or the twelfth Inca, usurped 
 the throne, and after having been guilty of the 
 most atrocious murders, and cruelties, on the 
 legitimate descendants, lost his own domini- 
 ons, and was himself strangled by the Spani- 
 ards under Pizarro. The no less strange than 
 incestuous custom of keeping the royal blood 
 pure, by marrying the presumptive heir to the 
 throne, to his eldest sister, appears to have 
 been continued, even to the latest periods of 
 their sovereignty, or to the time of the revolu- 
 tion of Atuhuallpa. Huana Capac, the last 
 Inca, and father of Huascar, and Atuhuallpa, 
 married first his eldeft sifter, who proving bar- 
 ren, married his second or youngest, Rava 
 Oclla, by whom he had Huascar, the legitimate 
 heir to the throne. Atuhuallpa was by the 
 daughter of the King of Quito, whom he had 
 conquered, and was considered illegitimate.* 
 Manco Capac, in his distribution of the ci- 
 
 * See Garcillazo de la Vegas Commentaries, Vol. L 
 
 page 275. 
 
150 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 ty of Cuzco, displayed great talents, for few 
 seem to be laid out to greater advantage. The 
 Royal Palace, the Temple of the Sun, the of- 
 fices of state, and houses belonging to the prin- 
 cipal subjects, occupied an eminence, and re- 
 ceived the name of Hanaun Cuzco, or Cuzco 
 upon the hill, the remaining part being situat- 
 ed in the plain, is called Huin Cuzco. By the 
 road of Antisuya the city is divided, and the 
 minor divisions though numerous, are regular, 
 for as the Inca reduced the savage people, 
 which then inhabited the country, to his sub- 
 jection, so he placed those he brought with 
 him to the city, in the direction such conquest 
 lay. Thus if the conquered came from the 
 east, in an easterly direction from this Palace, 
 a place was appropriated for their establish- 
 ment, iffromthe west, in the west, and so on. 
 Their immediate governor was taken or ap- 
 pointed from amongst them, and they were 
 allowed to enjoy the customs used in their 
 different countries. "Notwithstanding" says 
 Garcillazo (Vol I. page 299) the city contain- 
 ed upwards of 100,000 people of different na- 
 tions, each might with ease be distinguished 
 "by the colour of the turban, but this mode of 
 distinction was not an invention of the Inca, 
 but a custom of their own." Be this as it 
 may, the manner in which Manco Capac di- 
 
BRITON S VOYAGE. 151 
 
 vided the city, is a strong presumptive proof 
 that with him, this also originated. The Tem- 
 ple of the Sun appears to have been a most 
 stately, and magnificent place, and in it / the 
 Spaniards must have found immense riches, 
 the walls being covered with gold, and the 
 Image of the Sun which reached across the 
 east end, was of the same metal, and of great 
 thickness. This Temple is now become ths 
 Church of San Domingo. Many of the tombs 
 appear to have been curiously cutout of Crys- 
 tal, and must have been exceedingly hand- 
 some. In some of these repositories, water 
 vases of strange and extraordinary figures, 
 are sometimes found, and I was fortunate 
 enough to alight on two during my stay in 
 Lima. In the immediate neighbourhood of 
 Cuzco there are no rivers, but the small streams 
 are sufficient for the irrigation of the plain. 
 There are but few Spaniards in Cuzco, at pre- 
 sent, and I am inclined to believe the natives 
 are anxious to throw off the grievous yoke 
 which they have so long worn. In their sta- 
 ture, the Indians are of a middle height, and 
 muscular, having very little beard, but not as 
 some historians assert, entirely without it; 
 they are of a bright copper colour, wide coun- 
 tenances, without much expreffion, black eyes, 
 
1,52 NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 hair of the same colour, which is coarse and 
 long. 
 
 Arequipa may be considered the next place 
 of importance, and its extent conceived from 
 the population exceeding 100,000 people who 
 when we were at Lima, were in an open state 
 of rebellion against the State of Spain. The 
 misti, or volcano of Arequipa is one of the 
 highest mountains of the Andes. The section 
 which I here introduce, was taken by Mr. Cur* 
 son, a gentleman of great knowledge, when he 
 succeeded in reaching the summit, and as it 
 may not have come before the reader already, 
 I hope he will not be displeased by my laying 
 it before him, and when he has given it an ex- 
 amination, he will find that the fhip being 
 ready for sea, we weighed anchor on the 22d 
 of January, and after a voyage of 20 days, ar- 
 rived at Juan Fernandez, and notwithstand- 
 ing we did not find it that earthly paradise 
 described by Lord Anson, it is exceedingly 
 beautiful, and capable of every improvement. 
 
 This Island rendered of so much celebrity 
 by the ingenious pen of Daniel De Foe, in his 
 interesting History of Robinson Crusoe, is 
 now become the place of exile for the Patriots 
 of Chili, and it is no more than probable ; the 
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briton's voyage. 153 
 
 period, prove a theme for another novel of 
 equal interest. 
 
 On Ossorio's getting posseflion of Chili, the 
 head of every family (let his innocence be ne- 
 ver so conspicuous) if suspected of being at all 
 hostile to the royal cause, was arrested, drag- 
 ged from the bosom of his family and friends, 
 and banished to this spot; and on our ar- 
 rival here, we found about sixty hoary head- 
 ed venerable men, who had ever been accus- 
 tomed to the luxuries, and magnificence of a 
 • palace, reduced to the lowest ebb of misery, 
 and on the very point of starvation ; living in 
 hovels scarcely habitable, and deprived of eve- 
 ry thing tending to lighten the grevious yoke 
 of captivity. But a few months before, we 
 had seen many of them living in the greatest 
 affluence, and had often experienced their hos- 
 pitality. To one of those unfortunate gentle- 
 man, whose name is Rosalies, and who had 
 been formerly a member of the Junta, the in- 
 dulgence of his daughter accompanying him 
 was allowed. This amiable, and affectionate 
 young lady, immediately on her father's arrefl 
 solicited herfelf the favour, and when it was 
 granted to her, she was deaf to ail persuasions 
 having a tendency to weaken the resolution 
 she had come to ; and to see the care, and as- 
 siduity with which she flrove to ameliorate his 
 
 x 
 
154< A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 sufferings — to diflipate his grief — to render 
 his captivity less poignant, was truly admira- 
 ble, and may we not hope such a genuine 
 mark of filial affeclion, will ultimately meet 
 with that reward to which it is so pre-emi- 
 nently entitled ! 
 
 The principal anchorage in the Island of 
 Juan Fernandez, is Cumberland bay, wl '~ h is 
 neither commodious, nor safe. Neai 
 beach, amongst the various fruit trees, is bi .t 
 a litlle village, where the unhappy victims of 
 the most cruel, unrelenting, and vindictive 
 tyranny reside. The village is commanded 
 by a small battery containing about 100 sol- 
 diers badly armed, and miserably equipped. 
 The whole of Juan Fernandez is exceffively 
 mountainous, and romantically picturesque ; 
 posselfing several crystalline streams of water, 
 and a soil of great fertility. It is fupposed by 
 many to be a volcanic subftance, but, when I 
 succeeded in gaining the summit of several of the 
 mountains, I could not discern the remains of 
 any old craters or eruptions. The mountains are 
 also considered by some to be richly ftored with 
 ores, and I think it is not improbable, that this 
 may prove, at some future period, to be the 
 case, for luminous bodies, and meteoric sub- 
 fiances are frequently seen to rise from, as well 
 as to descend into several parts of the Island, 
 
briton's voyage. 155 
 
 and, however simple this may appear, it is a 
 strong indication, that ore of some class or 
 other is in the neighbourhood, insomuch, that 
 whenever a phenomenon of this nature is seen 
 by the Devon or Cornifh miners, they always 
 examine the earth, and their search under these 
 circum fiances, is generally attended with suc- 
 cess. The same may be a criterion for the 
 Island of Juan Fernandez. 
 
 The earth of this Island is in many places of 
 the colour of a bright red ochre,* but not 5 as is 
 afferted in the Voyage of Lord Anson, equal 
 to or exceeding in brilliancy the colour of Ver- 
 million. It is very fine, and when ground 
 with oil is a very good pigment, and answers 
 exceedingly well for drapery. 
 
 The seeds left here by Lord Anson, have 
 been every where productive, and the peach, 
 the apricot, and nectarine, with plums, &c. 
 grow spontaneously in the woods,, with other 
 trees. There is also an abundance of wild tur- 
 nips, parsley, oats, and the long grass com- 
 mon to European countries. 
 
 In ascending the mountains, it is neceflary 
 to use the greatest care, for the looseness of 
 the soil, gives to the trees so little holding, 
 
 * See plate which is printed in the native colour of the 
 earth of this Island. 
 
156 A NARRATIVE OF TIIC 
 
 that with many, the weight of a man would 
 be sufficient to precipitate it down the rocks, 
 and with it, if he be not on his guard, he 
 would himself be hurled. This circumftance 
 renders an excursion of this kind extremely 
 hazardous, and I doubt not intimidates many 
 from undertaking it, and consequently pre- 
 cludes them the pleasure of contemplating the 
 most romantic, strange, and incomprehensible 
 scenery which can be found in the formation 
 of the universe. The box and myrtle trees 
 are every where conspicuous. In the moun- 
 tains, there area great number of goats, but 
 are difficult to be taken. There are also a 
 confiderable number of wild bullocks. The 
 common pigeon of England, become wild, are 
 found in great abundance. There are no veno- 
 mous reptiles. At certain periods of the year 
 this Island is vifited by the sea lion, which ac- 
 cording to the account of Lord Anson, is so 
 immensely large as to produce several hogs- 
 heads of blood, as well as much oil and blub- 
 ber. They are considered a species of the seal, 
 which are found here at times, in great plenty, 
 but during our stay at the island, I did not see 
 any. The number of dolphins and flying fifh, 
 we saw in Cumberland bay, is really aftonifh- 
 ing, and of the latter some were taken, measu- 
 
briton's voyage. 157 
 
 ring twenty-six inches. Fifh of various other 
 sorts are also very plentiful. 
 
 To expedite the completion of our wood and 
 water, a tent was conltructed on fhore, and two 
 men were kept there during the night to guard 
 the implements for cutting wood, &c but the 
 temptation was too great to be withltood by 
 people having so great a propensity to thiev- 
 ing, as the Spauiards, and on the third night 
 some of the garrison entered with their knives, 
 when the man on watch was obliged to fly, the 
 other who was in his hammock, was cut dread- 
 fully, aud thrown over the cliff, but he did 
 not receive much injury by the fall, and his 
 wounds were afterwards healed. The depre- 
 dators plundered the tent of every thing, and 
 escaped with their booty, ere a boat could 
 reach the shore from the fhip. The governor 
 appeared to make a great fearch for the articles 
 flolen, but I muft confess, I entertain some 
 doubts whether he was not acceffary to the af- 
 fair, and if so he would only be treading in the 
 fteps of his predeceffor, who but a few years 
 before plundered the American ship Topaz . 
 (Capt. Folgier) of even everything she had on 
 board, reserving for his own (hare all the valu- 
 ables, among which was a chronometer, belong- 
 ing to Capt. Bligh of the Bounty, Adams hav- 
 ing made it a prefent to Capt. F. at the time he 
 
158 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 touched at Pitcairn's Island, and which I am 
 given to underftand he intended to return to 
 its original pofTefTor. 
 
 The temperature of Juan Fernandez, is ex- 
 ceedingly disagreeable, though not unhealthy, 
 and changes three times a day ; in the morning 
 it is a thickfog with rain, in the middle of the 
 day exceedingly warm, and at night the wind 
 is ftrong, and piercingly cold. 
 
 Having completed our wood and water, and 
 
 relieved the unfortunate exiles to the greatest 
 
 exte-nt in our power, we left Juan Fernandez, 
 
 and on the 19th of February, came again to an 
 
 anchor in the Bay of Valparaiso. 
 
BRITON^ VOYAGE. 159 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Sir Thomas Staines having with great kind- 
 ness acceded to my application for leave to vi- 
 sit the Capital of Chili, and my paflport from 
 the governor procured, I set off on my jour- 
 ney, at about four o'clock in the afternoon, and 
 reached Casa Blanca soon after eight. It was 
 necessary to halt here for a little refrefhment, 
 as well as to call on the governor or comman- 
 dant of the place, whom 1 found, and 1 doubt 
 not, pleasantly engaged, with some young la- 
 dies, at the Curate's house. They were pret- 
 ty girls, and treated me with great politeness, 
 but as I was anxious to pursue my route, I 
 could not avail myself of their kind invitation, 
 to spend the evening with them. 
 
 As the nioht had shut in, I could see but 
 little of the place, but on my return I found 
 it a long straggling village, fituated at the end 
 of a barren plain, at about 12 leagues from the 
 port. The inn, if it will bear so dignified a 
 name, is a mean hovel, and in the room where 
 I supped, there were four small beds, on one of 
 which I reposed for a fhort period. For my 
 
160 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 supper I had fowls ftewed in rice, and pickled 
 fifh ; the former was by no mean an objection- 
 able dish. The wine was new and very bad — 
 the spirits not drinkable. My expences here 
 including the horses and guide, amounted to 
 only a dollar. 
 
 About twelve o'clock my guide informed 
 me it was time to prepare for ftarting, or we 
 fhould have to travel in the heat of the day, to 
 reach Santiago, which he thought would to me 
 be disagreeable. I did not wait a second call, 
 and we were soon on the road. 
 
 The night was dark, and chilly, and I found 
 the poncho, used by the natives, of greater ser- 
 vice than any great coat I could have had. 
 About day-light we reached the summit of the 
 mountain Zapata, which is very high, and 
 we ascended by a zig-zag road made by O'Hig- 
 gins, an Irishman, in the time of his presiden- 
 cy in the kingdom of Chili. When the fog 
 cleared away, the country around afforded me 
 a most delightful view ; the vallies which are 
 all supplied with water, being perfect gardens, 
 and some, of unequalled sterility, forming a 
 ftriking contraft. The mountains are very 
 barren, and the earth from most of them is 
 warned away. The vallies are perfectly level, 
 and break from the mountains with great ab- 
 ruptness. In the interior of Chili, I did ob- 
 
briton's voyage. l6i 
 
 serve any hills running immediately into the 
 plain. 
 
 By nine o'clock,, we had reached CuraCavee" 
 where we were joined by a Spanish Gentle- 
 man, and an escort of soldiers, with whom I 
 breakrWed on a jftew of various ingredients, 
 boiled eggs and agua dent, for which repast 
 both parties (eight in number) paid a half dol- 
 lar. This really excited my aftonifhment, and 
 I could not but give the child of our host 
 the other half, who prayed to the Holy Virgin 
 to frank me through life with every blefling. 
 
 We now proceeded on our journey to the 
 foot of the second questa or mountain, when it 
 became quite clear, and the refreshing breeze 
 which had hitherto accompanied us, having 
 died away, we found the heat so oppressive, 
 that we gladly took shelter at a farm-house in 
 the plain of Poangue, which lay near the road, 
 and where we experienced great hospitality 
 from its inhabitants. A repast of meat and 
 fruit was soon ready for us, as well as some of 
 the best wine I found in the country, and after 
 giving a little indulgence to our appetites, we 
 stretched our saddle cloths, and each accord- 
 ing to the custom of the country, wrapped 
 himself in his poncho, and retired to rest. 
 
 About 3 o'clock our guides were again on 
 the alert, who informed us it was time to pro- 
 
162 NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 ceed, and in a few minutes we were again on 
 tho road. 
 
 The mountain of Prado,* which was now be- 
 fore us, is of a prodigious height, and as we 
 had left the main road for a nearer cut, and the 
 country bearing nothing but a dry thorn, it 
 was very disagreeable. Here my companion's 
 horse became tired, but not more so, I believe, 
 than he was himself; however, the first diffi- 
 culty was soon obviated, for a team belonging 
 to some farmers in the neighbourhood was 
 flopped in the king's name by the soldiers, and, 
 one of the horses taken out, and I doubt not 
 sold immediately on their arrival at the city. 
 The fatigued horse was not left as an equiva- 
 lent. This incident gave me a pretty clear 
 conception of the beauties of the Spanish con- 
 stitution, or rather of the grievous burden un- 
 der which the poor Chilinans groan. 
 
 We crofTed this mountain, whose summit 
 afforded me the most rapturous view it is poffi- 
 ble for the imagination to conceive, or fancy 
 paint. In an instant, the ftupendous ridge of 
 the Andes or Cordilleras presented themselves 
 to us, reducing those, which I had before con- 
 sidered inaccessible, to the comparative insig- 
 nificence of a mole hill. This magnificent 
 
 * This mountain is called by Vancouver, Praow. 
 
briton's voyage. 163 
 
 chain of mountains, as is observed by Dr. Ro- 
 bertson, no less remarkable for extent, than 
 elevation, rises in different places more than 
 one third above the Peak of Teneriffe, the 
 highest land in the ancient hemisphere. The 
 Andes may literally be said to hide their heads 
 in the clouds ; the ftorms often roll, and the 
 thunder bursts below their summits, which 
 though exposed to the rays of the sun, in the 
 centre of the torrid zone, are covered with 
 everlasting snows.* 
 
 The city of Santiago was also before us, to- 
 gether with a most extensive plain, beautiful- 
 ly interspersed with villages, rivers, and little 
 hills. These rivers are supplied from the snow, 
 which descends from the Andes. The Maypo- 
 cho, irrigating the country adjacent to the city, 
 the Mayho and Colinaat the distance of six or 
 seven leagues N. and S. render in their respec- 
 tive districts similar benefits. 
 
 Descended into the plain, it was with great 
 difficulty my companion (notwithftanding 
 the acquisition of a frefh horse) could travel, 
 therefore on reaching a house three leagues 
 from the city, and being wholly inadequate to 
 pursue his journey, 1 put him to bed. It was 
 
 * Robertson's History of South America, Book IV. 
 page 4. 
 
164 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 now late in the evening, and not willing to 
 leave him, I tarried also. The genera! dish for 
 travellers was soon prepared, and after I had 
 eaten heartily, I endeavoured to sleep, but it 
 was a vain attempt, for the fleas attacked me in 
 such numbers, that I was obliged to retreat 
 from the house, and fortunately 1 discovered a 
 cart with some ftraw, which being free from 
 these vermin, I slept profoundly until the 
 morning, when I proceeded on to the city, 
 and reached the hospitable mansion of Sen. 
 Dona Camilita Ramenz de Inquerda. Here I 
 found every thing ready for my reception, 
 every thing I could wish, and away from Eng- 
 land, I never spent my time so much to my 
 satisfaction. 
 
 1 must now take a brief view of Santiago 
 and its vicinity. This city named in compli- 
 ment to St. James, the patron of Spain, is si- 
 tuated in nearly 33° 4.5 ' south latitude, and 
 about four or five leagues to the. west of the 
 Cordilleras or Andes, which run from North 
 to South, through the whole of South Ameri- 
 ca. The plain in which it Hands, is of une- 
 qualled fertility, and not of less extent than 
 thirty to thirty-five leagues in circumference, 
 bounded on the east by the Amies, on the 
 west by the mountain of Prado ; by the river 
 
briton's voyage. 165 
 
 Colina on the North, and on the South by the 
 May ho. 
 
 Peter de Baklivia when he conquered this 
 country, finding a considerable village of In- 
 dians on the banks of the Maypoeho,, laid the 
 foundation of St. Jago, on this luxuriant spot, 
 in the year 1541, and following the example of 
 Pizarro, with that of Lima, laid it out in 
 squares of 150 yards each way, with streets 
 about 30 feet wide, running at right angles, 
 and neatly paved with smooth pebbie (tones ; 
 and from the conftant supply of water con- 
 ducted to each, by means of canals from the 
 river, they might, with a comparatively small 
 portion of trouble, be of unequalled cleanli- 
 ness. There are few cities pofferTing this ad- 
 vantage, and as few whose inhabitants do not 
 appreciate it. 
 
 "The streets which run" says Frazier "from 
 east to west, receive their water from the first 
 canals of the river, and those which cross from 
 North to South, from those which run in the 
 middle of the squares, across the gardens and 
 streets, under little bridges from whence it is 
 caused to flow out. " Were it not for that re- 
 lief" continues he " the gardens would pro- 
 duce nothing for want of rain for eight months 
 in the year, whereas by this means the city af- 
 
166 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 fords all the delight of the country in relation 
 to fruit, and herbs ; in the day the cool (hade, 
 and night the sweet scents of the orange flow- 
 ers, and floridondoes, which perfume the 
 houses. " 
 
 The houses are spacious and elegant, not- 
 withstanding they have only a ground floor. 
 Each has a large square court in front, and a 
 garden behind, and some contain many fami- 
 lies. The city possesses no fortification, and 
 is open at every point but the East, where 
 stands the mountain of St. Lucia, which might 
 be occupied to great advantage. Near the 
 centre is the Placa Real, or Royal Square, on 
 the west side of which, is the Cathedral (now, 
 rebuilding,) and Bifhop's Palace, the North 
 is occupied by the Palace of the President, 
 the royal court, council house, and prison. 
 Ofthese, the two firstare handsome buildings. 
 On the east is the market, and a beggarly row 
 of empty shops, and what they call a row of 
 handsome porticos from the South, but the 
 shops under these porticos are very respecta- 
 ble. There is also a gallery on this side, for 
 the purpose of viewing the turns or bull 
 fights, which are occasionally exhibited here. 
 In the middle of this square, Hands a fountain 
 of brass, and 1 dare say was once as handsome 
 
BRITON'S VOYAGE. 167 
 
 as many writers have described it, but its pre- 
 sent appearance does not justify me in drawing 
 any such conclusion. 
 
 The market I attended regularly, and found 
 it well supplied with every article of subfis- 
 tence, and meat much superior to what I ex- 
 pected. The custom-house, and exchange, 
 are superior buildings, but the mint in point 
 of elegance, eclipses any other I saw in South 
 America. Its interior is laid out to greater 
 advantage than that at Lima, though the ma- 
 chinery with which it is worked is nearly the 
 same. The governor of this place, as I have 
 already said of Lima, can order the execution 
 of any man within his goverment, without 
 consulting with, or having the approbation of 
 the President. He is absolute monarch within 
 his walls. 
 
 There are many churches here, handsome 
 alone from the quantity of gilding about the 
 various altars, neither of which can be com- 
 pared, for beauty or elegance, to those at Li- 
 ma. Here like all other places, where bigotry 
 and superftition are predominant features, they 
 tell you marvellous flories relative to their dif- 
 ferent images or saints. That one was seen 
 to shed tears of blood — another to kneel — a 
 third to wave its hand at the approach of a pro- 
 fane person ; and they believe or fain to be- 
 
168 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 lieve every thing they relate. However, the 
 seed of luxury, and consequently contempt, 
 which is rapidly disseminating itself in the 
 church, could easily be perceived, for those vo- 
 taries of idolatry, who but a few years ago 
 thought it sacrilege to prostrate themselves be- 
 fore the altars of their Tutelar Saints, but upon 
 bare stones, have now servants to attend them 
 with soft velvet cushions, which has more the 
 appearance of repose than devotion. To the 
 box, even of the father confefTor, these articles 
 are also taken. 
 
 This city possesses several monafteries, both 
 for men and women, but they are neither spa- 
 cious, nor handsome, and resemble those of 
 Lima only in the conduct of their inmates; 
 for, I was assured from the most respectable 
 authority, that the monks, as well as nuns, live 
 the most profligate and licentious lives it is 
 poflible to conceive, and notwithstanding they 
 appear to carry under their cloaks or veils, 
 the most rigid religion, when in their cloifters 
 they throw off their pious mafks, and give 
 themselves up to the illicit enjoyment of those 
 paflions, which, from their oaths, they are not 
 only bound to detect in others, but renounce 
 themselves. This I am fully authorised to 
 say, for 1 have now in my posseflion the most 
 irrefragable proofs of their guilt ; but, says 
 
briton's voyage. 169 
 
 Dr. Robertson when speaking of the priests, 
 ' 6 the giddy, the profligate, the avaricious, to 
 whom the rigid discipline of a convent is into- 
 lerable, confider a million to America, as a re- 
 lief from mortification and bondage. There 
 they soon obtain some parochial charge ; and. by 
 their situation far removed from the inspection 
 of their monaitic superiors, and exempt, by their 
 character, from the jurisdiction of their dioce- 
 san, they are hardly subject to control Ac- 
 cording to the teftimony of the most zealous ca- 
 tholics, many of the regular clergy in the Spa- 
 nish settlements, are not only destitute of the vir- 
 tues becoming their profefli n, but regardless of 
 that external decorum and respect, for the opi- 
 nion of mankind, which preserve a semblance of 
 worth, where the reality is wanting. Secure of 
 impunity, some regulars, in contempt of their vow 
 ef poverty, engage openly in commerce, and are 
 so rapaciously eager in amassing wealth, that 
 they become the most grievous oppressors of the 
 Indians, whom it is their duty to have protected. 
 Others with no less flagrant violation of their 
 vow of chastity, indulge with little disguise in 
 the most dissolute licentiousness" 
 
 The river Maypocho is in every part fbrdable, 
 excepting in the rainy season, or when the snow 
 on the mountains melts the most, when it in- 
 creases to so enormous a degree, that it has been 
 
 z 
 
I/O A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 necessary to build a wall on its left bank, to pre- 
 vent any injury being done by its great overflow. 
 Its course is very rapid. This wall is perpendi- 
 cular on each side, about ten feet high, with 
 numerous flights of fteps leading to the top, 
 where there is only sufficient room for two or 
 three people to walk conveniently abreast each 
 other. The trees on the inside form a very plea- 
 sant fhelter from the oppressive rays of the sun 
 throughout ths day. It is called the Tacamar, 
 which literally means, to bind or keep back the 
 sea. During two hours of the evening, it is the 
 fafhionable resort of the Belles and Beaux of the 
 city, and had it been well arranged at firft, it 
 would unqueftionably have been the most de- 
 lightful promenade in that country. Two parties 
 cannot meet, without the one greatly inconveni- 
 encing the other, and as there is no walk so pleas- 
 ing to the fair, this must conftantly occur. The 
 bridge which crosses the Maypocho, has eight 
 arches, is well built, and handsome. 
 
 During the time of the Patri, or revolution, 
 several wise institutions took place, and to every 
 art or science the greatest encouragement was 
 given, the whole of which, without reserve, was 
 destroyed immediately on the return of the Spa- 
 niards to power ; and this extensive city cannot 
 now boast of a school or seminary calculated to 
 expand the mind or enlighten the understand- 
 
briton's voyage. 171 
 
 ing ; neither does any one dare to keep a book, 
 or read one, under a heavy penalty, which has 
 not been approved of by the inquisitor fiscal, or 
 one of his satellites; and even the Bibles and 
 Testaments from the Bible Society, which were 
 promulgated with so much assiduity by Capt. 
 Hellier, were, immediately after his departure, 
 collected by order of the bishop, and publicly 
 burnt. 
 
 The inhabitants are voluptuous and indolent, 
 possessing good natural abilities, if properly cul- 
 tivated. The women, who are generally the 
 best informed, study to rival each other in the 
 personal accomplishments of their children, 
 without paying the least attention to a single 
 mental one ; and if their darling boy can strut 
 with grace — adjust his cocked hat — gamble — 
 waltz, and dance a minuet, — it is matter of little 
 consequence, if he knows not the Andes from the 
 Alps ; and at maturity he becomes, like his fa- 
 ther, too lazy to improve his mind : and too proud 
 and ignorant to allow another to be a superior 
 genius to himself. To this alone can they at- 
 tribute the loss of that liberty, of which for 
 three years, they were the entire possessors. 
 The women are pretty, interesting, and docile . 
 the men proud, vindictive, revengeful. The 
 character of the Spaniard is inherent in them, 
 
172 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 except his duplicity J in which they aie making 
 rapid strides to attain. 
 
 The fashionable hour for visiting, is from ten 
 to twelve at riigtit; They amuse themselves at 
 cards or dancing until a late hour, when they 
 return, make a hasty supper, go immediately to 
 bed, and if they are up a couple of hours before 
 dinner, it may be considered a wonderful exer- 
 tion. They retire again from three, until six or 
 seven, and after a short walk on the Tacamar, 
 and a little refreshment of preserves, lemonade, 
 &c. &c. they again prepare to visit — some the 
 Tertulia,* others their friends, and many to fly 
 into the arms of their lovers, who are, perhaps, 
 waiting with anxiety at the secret place of as- 
 signation. Thus it is, then, their days and 
 nights roll away, and I am persuaded there are 
 few who, possessing enough to satiate their va- 
 nity or lust to-day, calculate on the approach of 
 to-morrow. The women, when young, dress 
 elegantly ; but at a more advanced age they be- 
 come such huge monsters, or rather lumps of fat, 
 that any thing elegant loses its effect the instant 
 it is applied ; to this there are but few ex- 
 ceptions. 
 
 The population of Santiago does not exceed, I 
 
 A gambling-house. 
 
briton's voyage. 173 
 
 suppose, 50,000 souls, although it is computed 
 to be considerably more. There are a great 
 many slaves, and they are treated with great 
 humanity. 
 
 The country, extending towards the River 
 Maypo, Colina and Cordillera Mountains, is 
 part icularly beautiful and of uncommon fertility. 
 It is almost a continuation of cuintas^ or country 
 seats belonging to gentlemen of the city, to 
 which they make frequent excursions, or occa- 
 sionally retire, as may be most suited to their 
 convenience or taste. 
 
 There is a road of communication across the 
 Cordilleras, between Santiago and Buenos Ayres, 
 but for four months it is shut up by the frost, 
 and is at all times difficult to pass. I was given 
 to understand, unless the mules, as well as 
 guides, are experienced, it is exceedingly dan- 
 gerous, the precipices and chasms being of such 
 stupendous height or depth. Mendoca is the 
 first town you arrive at on the eastern side, 
 when it is a continual plain to the River de la 
 Plata. 
 
 The few towns, worthy of notice in the coun- 
 try of Chili, are Valparaiso Penco, or Concep- 
 tion, Cossiepo, Coquimboj Chilan Quillo, Acon- 
 % caqua, Rancaqua Mablie, St. John tie la Cordil- 
 leria, and Mendoca. The latter being now in 
 possession of the patriots, as well as on the east 
 
174 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 side of t the Cordilleras, I think, ought no longer 
 to be numbered among the cities of Chili. These 
 towns are not very populous, and principally 
 of Mestizoes, Mulattoes, and Indians. 
 
 The governor of this kingdom is styled the 
 President, but acts in subordination to the Vice- 
 roy of Lima; however, from the remoteness of the 
 situation, as well as not having a convenient com- 
 munication with that city, it may be said he is 
 quite independent. The residence is always at 
 Santiago, where he is at the head of a court, 
 consisting of four judges, two attorney-generals, 
 with others of subordinate rank, such as reporters, 
 secretaries, &c. &c. 
 
 During my visit at this city, an order arrived 
 for the re-establishment of the tribunal of Inqui- 
 sition, and which was to be put in force at an 
 early period. This court is subordinate to the 
 Limanan one, which sends to Santiago a com- 
 missary general, with a necessary number of 
 officers, who are distributed at the different 
 towns, where " they employ themselves/' says 
 Frazier, "upon matters of sorcerers true or false, 
 and certain crimes, the cognizance whereof be- 
 longs to the Inquisition, as polygamy, &c. As 
 for heretics, I am sure none fall into their hands. 
 They there study so little, that they are not sub- 
 ject to run astray through too much curiosity ; 
 only the desire to distinguish themselves from 
 
briton's voyage. 175 
 
 others by an honourable title, make some church- 
 men learn a little school divinity and morality, 
 to bear the name of a Licentiate, or Doctor, 
 which the Dominicans and the. Jesuits confer by 
 a privilege obtained from the Pope, though 
 there is no university established at Santiago ; 
 but these titles are to be had of them so easily, 
 that there are some among the licentiates who 
 know little Latin, which they do not look upon 
 as necessary for attaining the sciences." 
 
 Whether this writer's observations be just or 
 not, I shall not pretend to determine; but I can 
 say, that on its being made public, that this 
 merciless court was a^ain restored to its original 
 functions, it diffused a general gloom on the 
 countenance of every individual, of whatever 
 class or society. I heard no remark made on the 
 subject ; it was prudent perhaps to be silent. 
 
 Earthquakes, or tremblor de tierres, are fre- 
 quently felt throughout Chili, and often very 
 alarming; in fact, the city, as well as the other 
 towns, bear evident proofs of it in the structure 
 of their houses ; for they are seldom built of a 
 second story, and always with materials well cal- 
 culated to withstand a sudden shock — such as 
 long unburnt bricks, inlaid with cane, or other 
 stuff of equal elasticity. Among those which 
 have happened here, the most severe was in 
 1647 9 when nearly the whole city was destroyed, 
 
176 A NARRATIVE OF THE 
 
 as well as the greater part of the inhabitants, for 
 those who were not swallowed up in the vortex 
 of this convulfion of nature, became victims to 
 the disease which followed ; as the air was, for 
 a considerable period, contaminated by ex- 
 halations the moil unwholesome. Historians 
 say "The earth continued to tremble for three 
 succeflive days". I felt the mock of one only, 
 and it was very inconsiderable. 
 
 The country throughout, is very rich in ores 
 of every description, particularly gold, silver, 
 and copper, but neither of the mines are now 
 worked to any extent, from the internal commo- 
 tions, and various revolutions the country has 
 undergone, during these last four or five years. 
 1 did not go to the mines, and as there was not a 
 single mineralogist in the country, 1 was not so 
 successful in procuring specimens as at Lima. 
 
 It was but a few days after my arrival at St. 
 Jago, that a report was in circulation of ships 
 of war being seen off Conception, which 
 was followed by the news of the Englifh squa- 
 dron having left the port of Valparaiso, in pur- 
 suit of them. My feelings, at being left behind, 
 can be with sweater ease conceived than describ- 
 ed,for though I was in a house where every thing 
 was at my disposal, I could not but regret being 
 absent, when my presence might have been use- 
 ful ; however, these men of war proved to be 
 
„s 
 
 BRITON S VOYAGE. 17^ 
 
 clouds, and in a fortnight, the Briton and squa- 
 dron had returned, when I, wiihing to secure a 
 paffage to England, ordered my guide to prepare 
 the horses for darting, and after a journey simi- 
 lar to the one I described in the beginning of 
 this chapter, I arrived on board, where 1 found, 
 to my great satisfaction, my old friends as I left 
 them, all well, and with me anxious to redouble 
 Cape Horn, and return to that happy country, 
 which pofTelfed the different objects of our affec- 
 tion, and whose worth could only be appreciated 
 in so remote a region. 
 
 5 A 
 
CONCLUSION. 
 
 The morning of the 28th of March, when we 
 quitted the port of Valparaiso, was of unequall- 
 ed serenity, but the wind soon veered round to 
 the southward, and occasioned us again to make 
 the Island of Juan Fernandez. Here the breeze 
 became propitious, and as we increased our 
 southern latitude, so did it increase in ftrength, 
 and on the 13th April we were in the latitude of 
 Cape Horn. The weather had now become 
 tempeftuous, and the sea rolled from the pole in 
 heavy waves, which roared as they daflied them- 
 selves against the inhospitable mores of Terra del 
 Fuego, and Statten Island, but, notwithstanding 
 this, and our ignorance of the entrance of the 
 ftraights Le Maire, it was the intention of Sir 
 Thomas to regain the Atlantic by that passage. 
 The fog which had hovered over the land, clear- 
 ing away, we discovered ourselves a little to the 
 eastward of the entrance, and it was with diffi- 
 culty we could gain it without being carried by 
 the curreni upon Statten Island, whose shores 
 bore a molt terrific appearance. Scarcely had 
 we weathered the rock, and opened the ftraights, 
 
CONCLUSION. 179 
 
 when a sudden guft of wind carried away the 
 main-yard in the flings ; but the point was very 
 fortunately gained, and we were soon wafted 
 through into the great Atlantic Ocean, when the 
 carpenters were set to work on the main-yard, 
 and on the fourth day the jish was compleated, 
 and it was again aloft. The Tagus, our consort, not 
 being able to follow us through the ftraights, bore 
 up, and went to the eastward of Statten Island. 
 Nor did she join us again until the 27th of April, 
 when we arrived off the harbour of Rio de Jane- 
 iro. In this port we found Admiral Dixon with 
 his squadron preparing to sail for England ; our 
 refit was expedited as much as poflible, and on 
 the 14th of May, we all weighed anchor for our 
 return to this country. During our tedious 
 voyage back, we were first informed of Napole- 
 on's return from Elba to France, which, was foon 
 followed by an account of his disafters at the me- 
 morable battle of Waterloo, but we were not put 
 in polTeffion of the particulars until the 7th of 
 July 1815, which period brought His Majefty's 
 (hip Briton, in safety at Plymouth, and conse- 
 quently me, to the conclusion of my narrative. 
 
 J. W. Marriott, Printer, East-Street, Taunton. 
 

 DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER 
 
 1 Patokee, Frontispiece . 
 
 2 Colgotha, to face 4th Page. 
 
 3 Rio Janeiro, 8tb. 
 
 4 Aqueduct, ib. 
 
 5 Taguca, 14th. 
 
 6 Kicker Rocks 31st. 
 
 7 Captain Watson shewing ^^-.j 
 
 his Irons, J 
 
 S Christiana, 75th. 
 
 9 Pitcairn's Island, 81st. 
 
 10 Christian, 96th. 
 
 ] 1 View of Callao, } 
 
 12 Lady of Lima, ( in one plate to face 7th Chap- 
 
 13 Sepulchre for Children,^ ter. 
 
 14 View of Lima, 3 
 
 15 Juan Fernandez, 152nd. 
 
 16 Section, 155th. 
 
 N. B. There arc in the vthole 15 Etchings instead of 18, as mentioned 
 in the Title Page. 
 
ERRATA. 
 
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