24 >y HOLLAND COMMEMOR^ATIMG THE i ~~ C E N X E ISl A.R_Y CELEBK-ATION OFTHE IMM(S]D@M@i-^^MimrMEl,MHIDa ifiUDnCAiniOM^a^^^IFMCEIPALACE- ^j>u.us..o --.HOLLANDAMERICALINE- HOLLAND THE HOME OF PEACE "\^ ■i^i^^.,,, ,;:^^"'H„ A Great Ocean Liner Leaving the Port of Rotterdam (New triple-screw turbine ateamsHip "Slaleadam '* of the Holland-America Line) 32,500 tons register (Now building) 43,000 tons displacement HOLLAND THE HOME OF PEACE JAMES HjGORE PhD.LLD. Author oj " Holland as seen by an American," 'Dutcli Art as seen by a Layman," "" How to see Holland, etc., etc. COAVAEAVORATING f£e ' CENTENARYCELEBRATION KINGDOno^/eNETHERLANDS ^ DEDICATION o^^e. ^ PEACE PALACE NEW YORK PUBLISHED BY '^ MCMXIII ^^ '*' Copyrighted. 1913 HoU and -America Line ^\^^ Designed, Engraved and Primed by The William Darling Press. New York c:. Harborview, Rotterdam N recent years the call for arbi- tration has gone up and down the land, disarmament has been the cry of well-meaning people. Peace Congresses have held long and important Sessions at The Hague, and in a few months there will be dedicated in this city the Palace of Peace. At first it seems paradoxical to associate Hol- land — the usual name for the Netherlands — with Peace. Those who know this country best, its land, and its history, think of the con- flicts which have been waged here, waged against the elements and against man. They think of the country where the rivers run, so to speak, above the heads of the inhabitants, where powerful cities rest below the level of the sea which surges against them, where por- tions of the cultivated fields are invaded by the waters and in turn freed from them, where islands have been attached to the continent by ropes of sand, and where parts of the solid ground have been transformed into islands. Holland, without quarries, has erected mag- nificent buildings and substantial cities, almost without timber she has constructed navies which have disputed the sea with the most powerful Heets. It is not astonishmg that even a sterile coun- try should, by cultivation, produce grain and stock, but it is surprising that Holland should exist. That which interests the traveler more than the local scenery, the character of the people, or the prosperity of the country, is the mystery of formation and strange destiny which is ex- plained partly by nature and partly by human industry. Flat as a calm ocean, indented by gulfs and bays, eaten away by interior lakes, and intersected by rivers, Holland seems to have been for ages the arena of combat be- tween land and sea. In other countries where science seeks to un- ravel geologic problems, it examines the testi- mony of the rocks and reads from mountains regarding whose structure history is silent. Human genius follows the action of forces which spent themselves anterior to man's prob- able entry, but in Holland all is new, the gulfs, lakes and islands, and even entire provinces FIVE The '"Oosterkade", a Busy River Traffic Section at Rotterdam have come into existence under man's observa- tion. He has seen, within historic times, sand close a river's mouth, land converted into w^ater, and lakes dry up and disappear. The ordinary agencies of change, wind and waves, rain and flood, and the rise and fall of land have here been at work. Long after the Continent of Europe had become fixed and stable, Holland began its geographic formation and is still pur- suing processes intended to hold or enlarge her boundaries. The jesting answer, "The Dutch have taken Holland," satisfied the query for news ad- dressed returning skippers, and the second question was seldom asked, though a more truthful reply would have been, "The Dutch are taking Holland" — taking it by such slow and solemn degrees as the coral mite is build- ing a mountain on old ocean's bed and by a quiet perseverance that is equalled only by the dripping stream that changes granite rocks into sea-side sand. The Dutch are taking Holland %• The Prinsengracht, Amsterdam and nature has endowed them with that patience and industry that enables them to gather solid and fruitful earth, inch by inch, from a roaring, encroaching sea. No other people but the Dutch are so well fitted to pump, scoop and shovel and rake a fine productive country out of a cold, sour, reedy marsh. The wind and waves said, "there shall be no land here"; the Dutch said, "there will be land here", and out of the conflict there arose "A land thai rides at anchor and is moored. On which people do not live but go aboard." Physical geography is loath to admit the existence of Holland, and blind gravity, in rob- bing the sluggish rivers of their load of sedi- ment, has blocked their outlets into the sea, and made them in turn destroy the land of their creation. The sea has resisted this en- croachment and in retreating it has continually fought to regain lost territory. It has throwTi barriers across the river channels to make the rivers themselves destroy the land of their cre- ation, it has hurried the rich alluvial soil fath- oms deep under unproductive sands, and where it does not build a fortress against itself in the i-i O AA E i=>e: A. C E — shape of sand-dunes, the state must accept the challenge and begin a royal battle. Along the North Sea there are stretches, sometimes eight miles in length, along which there must be built dykes strong enough to withstand the heaviest storm and highest sea — such are the dykes at Petten near Alkmaar, and Westkapelle on the island of Walcheren. The sea has had an ally in the dreaded teredo, or borer of the sea. In 1 732 it was found that the ships from the East had carried with them a curious shell fish, which has the habit of boring into wood and even into stone of moderate hardness. The Pholas has a shell, armed with a saw, by which it is able to carve out an habitation for itself and effectually destroy the timber or stone into which it cuts. The danger from this source was not realized until it was accidentally discovered that at many places the very bulwarks of Holland's safety were honeycombed. The discovery of this condition threw Holland into dismay. For- tunately the means which were taken to protect the piles unwittingly assisted in the extermina- Canal Scene, Amsterdam A ZuYDER Zee Shore Scene tion of the terrible pest. Large-headed nails were driven into the wood so close together that they practically gave it a coat of mail, and now caution keeps the more important piles covered with copper sheeting. A worm has made Holland tremble — a triumph denied to the tempests of the Ocean and the anger of Philip of Spain. One never combats nature with abstractions. In Holland, man is kept inevitably face to face with realities by the watchful care which his very existence demands and the material ob- stacles which must be conquered at every step. Patriotism never becomes dormant because the face of the land shows in its scars its history, and the love of Home grows at the reckoning of the cost of its retention. One saw this little nation, almost imperceptible on the map of the world during the 1 6th Century, build dykes and contest with the sea for suprem- acy. In their struggle against Spain they pre- ferred to treat with the sea than with the Duke of Alva, and when no longer able to cope with a superior force, they cut the dykes and flooded provinces, preferring to drown themselves with the land of their creation than to live upon soil outraged by the feet of foreign foes. In this fragmentary country, broken mto parts by lakes, and cut into pieces by rivers and canals, interests centered around localized systems of Hydraulics. Thus one community was a unit in those vital matters of sustenance and self-preservation, and its people naturally felt a greater allegiance to the local govern- ment than to a centralized power. From the liberty of the canton or village, a single differ- entiation led to the liberty of the individual. Under such conditions, an empire could never have come into existence; with such an origin, the United Netherlands are indissoluble. Canal Thro' the Woods, The Hague Mauritshuis Art Gallery and Vyverberg, The Hague William of Orange was satisfied to be a Stadhouder, or local governor, and his succes- sors became kings in name rather than in func- tions. The present sovereign wishes to be as democratic as the great founder of the dynasty and also strives to emphasize local pride and patriotism by wearing, during her visits to the provinces, the costumes so dear to her people. Without the Dutch, there would be no Netherlands. This country is in truth and in fact their own creation and they have the un- deniable right to look upon their work and say "It is good." Canal, North Holland Without science and industry, such a land could never have beheld the light of day, and but for incessant vigilance of its people it would soon perish. Its creation is a miracle of human genius, its preservation is a monument to its skill. Urged by his religion to be patient under affliction, the pious Hollander has continued to reconquer and refortify that which wind and waves and grasping neighbors abstracted time and again from his possession, he has continued to scoop the mud into ridges, to face the ridges with stone, and cover them with bricks and set trees upon their borders, has continued to drive piles into the marshes, set cities on the piles and sail ships to the cities of his creation; nor has he ceased to catch herrings for the South, bring spices for the North, weave wool- ens for the East and print books for the World. The other conflicts which Holland waged were not so bloodless. They included the greatest and most important of all European wars, that in which the seven provinces of Holland secured their independence against Philip, the monarch who was supposed to possess the mightiest forces of the age. Hol- land was won by its people, acre by acre, field by field, against the best European troops of L.^ the time, the craftiest generals, and apparently boundless resources. The success of this struggle stimulated simi- lar efforts in other countries and though failure as often as success crowned these efforts, gov- ernments were purified, lofty principles vindi- cated and ignoble ambitions crushed. Undoubtedly the precedent of the Dutch revolt was before the minds of those who drew up the Declaration of American Independence. The French Government, to show its unfriend- liness to England, intervened on behalf of American freedom and sowed the seeds of the French Revolution. The successful issue of O AA E OF* PEA-CE this revolt was the repudiation of the divine rights of Kings and the divine authority of the Pope. In throwing off the yoke of Spain the for- mal announcement was made in the "Act of Abjuration." In this act was found the first enunciation of the duties of rulers to their people and an affirmation that there is, and must be, a contract between the ruler and the people, even though that contract has not been reduced to writing, or debated on, or fought for. Unexpressed in words but declared in substance was the novel theory now enjoyed by the world in its fullness that men and women Models of Old Dutch Sailing Vessels in St. Bavo Church, Haarlem _! are not the private estate of princes, to be dis- posed of in their industry, their property, and their consciences, by the whim or fancy of those who were fortunate enough to be able to Hve by the labors of others. When Julius Caesar was engaged in extend- ing the Roman Empire over the northern tribes of the great Teutonic race, he found the terri- tory enclosed between the two principal arms of the Rhine occupied by the Batavians. "The Batave was the noblest of savages. He loved the solitude of the marsh and the forest, he inhabited the sea as much as the land, he was as free as the wild fowl that frequented his haunts, he was a constant friend and a ferocious enemy, he was broad-browed, broad-shoul- dered, strong-limbed, white-skinned, blue-eyed man, who loved one wife and worshipped one God. His race was driven by a succession of extraordinary tides from the island homes, to move southwardly among the tribes of stran- gers and became enveloped among the armies of Rome, lost by civilization many of their noble characteristics, grew to be the most re- liable soldiers of the Empire, held the balance of power between rival candidates for Em- peror, and lost their identity as a tribe, but as you walk through the streets of Trastevere among the known descendants of the cap- tains of the Roman Empire, your friend, the tracer of races, will point you to a blue- e3'ed woman, a yellow-haired child or a red-bearded man and say, 'There goes Batavian blood.' Just so, as you wan- der among the earth walls of Zeeland and South Holland, your antiquarian friend will lead you to the top of some ridge now far inland, and quietly inform you that 'that's Batavian Dyke.' The same fe A fell f^kk ^m ^s ^m ^m w^h Naarden antiquarian a little farther south, would show you the Druse canals and the Roman road- ways." At whatever cost Rome achieved her con- quests the debt was more than paid in the municipal institutions which survived the bar- barous inroads of Hun, Goth and Vandal and the towns, in the enjoyment of their chartered rights, made laws to meet local conditions and fostered industries to meet existing demands. Thus it was that when the Crusades trans- ferred military activities from home to foreign lands and gave extra work to those who chose the less romantic vocation of producing, the towns of the low countries became veritable hives of industry. The damp air prevalent in this section seemed to give a special texture to the goods woven here and in the lack of sufficient raw material from neighboring flocks, England was called upon to supply the de- mand. Thus it was that from the time of the Edwards (1272) to the end of the Tudor line (1603) free intercourse with the Low Coun- tries was of profound interest to England and to the Netherlands. If this trade were inter- rupted, thousands of looms would lie idle and poverty would show itself in the Flemish cities. The needs of the body and the demands of fashion kept the shuttles flying and the song they sang was the song of Peace. Another potent influence for peace was the herring fishery industry which attained gigan- tic proportions because of the skill of the Dutch in catching the fish and their secret process for curing them. The discipline of the church prescribed a fish diet during divers periods of the year and the faithful were not disposed to quarrel with their source of supply. The fish- eries of the North Sea were not only a mine of wealth but became the nursery of the Dutch Navy, of those amphibious mariners who struck the first blow for Dutch independence, crushed in later years the maritime supremacy of Spain, founded the Batavian empire of Holland in the tropics, engaged in an unequal struggle with England, and upheld for a century the repu- TWELVE tation of Holland after it had passed the zenith of its commercial greatness. These same hardy mariners developed the great ti-ade with East India and laid the way for England's ultimate conquests m the East. They made voyages of discovery popular and in bringing back objects curious and interest- ing laid the foundation for the earliest museum in the world. The earlier voyagers gave Dutch names to capes, bays, islands and continents which now, in modified form, tell a graphic story of perilous exploration. The type of Government called into exist- ence by the industrial and commercial activi- ties in the Netherlands after three centuries of successful operation subsequently became a source of weakness. The towns were the units in the scheme and the deans and masters of the guilds eventually monopolized the government, and extinguished the ancient right of free elec- tion, and the communities became practically little republics whose deputies took common counsel together in general assemblies. But with conflicting interests and competitive aspir- The East Gate, Delft Street Scene, Delft ations the cities were quarrelsome and com- bative and only united to resist a grasping foe. Philip the Good inherited in the Nether- lands the counties of Flanders and Artois. He purchased Namur, usurped the Duchy of Brabant and took from his cousin Jacqueline, Holland, Zeeland, Hai- nault and Friesland. From this time on, the seventeen provinces vv^hich made up the Netherlands were fought for and fought over. They were the booty for which foreign sov- ereigns contended and it was not until Wil- liam of Orange revolted agamst measures which he declared his liege Lord, Philip of Spain, would not sanction that Zeeland the land had a cham- pion who sought a ruler from their midst. Vic- tory ultimately crowned this effort, and in 1 648 the United Netherlands achieved in the Peace of Munster their independence. While William did not hve to see the end he so devoutly strove to achieve, he is regarded as the father of his country and Delft, his home and place of burial, is visited by thousands. "No town is richer than Delft in associations that appeal to many different types of mind. The traveler whose main object is to note the characteristic national features finds Delft quite as interesting as Leyden or Haarlem, though differing much from both. The lover of Dutch architecture finds much to note in such build- ings as the Gemeenlandshuis, the Town Hall and the New Church. The compact, clean little town is rich in studies for the artist of to-day, and full of associations connected with past history of Dutch art. No man who is even partially acquainted with the thrilling story of Dutch history can go otherwise than as a rever- ent pilgrim to the town whose streets 'Father William' trod so often, to the house where he lived and where he died, to the church — the St. Denis of Holland — which witnessed the solemn ceremonials of his own funeral, and to which, one by one, his chief descendants have been brought. Here, too, the great market is a center of interest. It is very spacious and at one end rises the west front and lofty steeple of the New Church, built in the early part of the 1 5 th Century. Opposite this, and filling the west end of the great square, stands a fine statue of Hugo Grotius. It was a bold thing for Jacob Harmensen, known as Arminius, to question the doctrine of predestination, nor did the storm he raised cease with his death in 1669. Unfortunately for his traducers his tenets had prevailed in the University of Leyden and had been adopted by most of the higher and educated class, and among them were found Barne- veld and Grotius, but by the populace they were viewed with a fanatical abhorrence, fanned Canal and Leaning Tower, Delft -F .' MA .•Vt/Sft'V*X9. and excited by their rigid Calvinist clergy headed by Gomarus. The conflict, at first religious, ultimately assumed political significance and involved the question as to whether the churches were under the control of the states or the Stadhouder. The Gomarists proposed a national synod to settle the religious aspects of the controversy to which deputies came from The Netherlands, England, Germany and Switzerland. After holding 180 Sessions at Dort, the Arminians were condemned, 200 of their pastors were deposed, 80 were banished, and in May, 1619, they set forth a confession of faith, which was long held by the Calvinistic party as of supreme authority. The victory gained by Maurits, the Stadhouder, did not satisfy him. He was determined to rid himself of Barneveld, who had opposed the Synod of Dort and also Grotius. On fictitious charges the former was unjustly condemned and executed on May 13th, 1619, and Grotius was sentenced to imprisonment for life. After serving two years he es- caped, through the cunning of his wife, and took refuge in Paris where he completed his famous work on "The Law of War and Peace." FAVi; SfiFp! ljaaRa»-jt«;3!li Dort, or Dordrecht, is an ancient city, one of the oldest in Holland, going back to the 1 0th Century. It stands on what is now an island which was torn from the mainland in 1421 by an inundation — a catas- trophe which is a part of every Dutchman's to-morrow. Here were born the De Witt brothers whose superior, as councilors and patriots, Holland has not been able to pro- duce. The dome on ancient Groot- hoofspoort, one of the town gates of the 16th Century, contains, among other relics, a collection of medals, some of which were struck in com- memoration of the execution of the two patriots just named. Dort is a delightful old town to stroll about. The variety of gables, quite as extensive as in any other Dutch town, the number of "pic- turesque bits", in the artistic sense, compressed into a small area, is very large, the huge ancient church tones and colors the landscape, and the river and numerous canals and water- ways add to the charms. The great Church is a fine build- ing, having a high, square tower, a prominent landmark for miles around, but the interior is the most desolate and apparently ill-cared for of all The New Church, Delft the large Dutch cathedrals. There is a hand- some pulpit, dating from 1 756, but the chief treasure is some magnificent ancient oak carving, executed in 1538-1540 by Jean Terwen, of Amsterdam. These carvings adorn a superb set of choir stalls and are approached only by the screen in the church at Hoorn. They are well worth a visit, but the lover of the antique will come away grieved. Charles of Sweden was financially exhausted by the expensive habits of Christina and the thirty years war, and looked about for a nation which he could despoil. Denmark, at that time unsettled by internal dissension, was select- ed for the attack. If successful, Poland would be called upon to yield some territory and the Baltic was to be a Swedish lake. John Casi- mir II, of Poland, resented the arrogance of his Swedish neighbor, and though threatened by Cossacks on the East and harassed by troubles within, he stubbornly resisted the pre- tentious designs of Charles. Cromwell was expected to give aid to Polcuid but held aloof because of promised commercial favors in the Baltic trade and Hol- land, weakened by wars with England, would, it was thought, refrain from aiding Denmark. But the possible closing of the Baltic to Dutch trade gave Denmark an ally. The successes of Charles, surpassed only by the achievements of Gustavus Adolphus, aroused such fears amongst the neutral powers that they insisted upon a cessation of hostilities. This was con- summated in the treaty concluded at The Hague between England, France and Holland on May 21, 1659, for mutual defense, to include the elector of Brandenburg's possessions on the Baltic and the protection of Dutch com- merce on that sea. The Hague, made a city by a decree of Louis Bonaparte, had, at the time this treaty was signed, a tovra hall nearly ready to cele- brate its centennial. Now the capital of Neth- erlands, this city was praised by Motley as the most elegantly built, and the most charming and attractive of European residences, excel- ling by a happy combination of coquettish architecture and coquettish horticulture. No place in Holland is so full of historical reminiscences. They are, in the main, associa- ted with the Royal Chapel, the Prisoner's Tower, the Binnenhof and the Buitenhof (Inner and Outer Court), where formerly resided the Counts of Holland and the Stad- houders of the Orange Line, and where, nowa- days, are held the sittings of the States-General. In the Buitenhof, a large open square, stands an ancient gate tower (restored) leading into the Plaats. It is the Gevangenpoort (prison gate). Here, in 1671, Cornelius De Witt was imprisoned, charged with conspiring against the Stadhouder, William III, and it was here when his brother John, the Grand Pen- sionary, hastened to protect him, that the popu- lace, whose minds had been poisoned, broke into prison, and dragging both the De Witts into the square, tore them to pieces. Such was the reward of another of Holland's sons, who had taught the Dutch how to fight the English single-handed, and had startled London with the sound of his ship's guns in the Thames. The old prison has its instruments of torture belonging to that chapter in Holland's history, not two centuries old, when the tortures in- flicted on its prisoners were "not surpassed at Venice," even in its worst time. Outside the Binnen- hof, the last building standing alone by the edge of the lake at the comer, is the Maurits- huis, the famous Hague Picture Gallery (open weekdays, 9-4, Sundays, 1-4, closed on certain Church festivals), which national monument. The Hague SEVENTEEN The "Voorstraatshaven", Dordrecht ranks with that of Amsterdam as one of the finest collections of the Dutch school. Its three hundred pictures include the prized "Bull" of Paul Potter, which was judged as fourth among the stolen treasures at the Louvre carried off by Napoleon, Rembrandt's well-known Anatomi- cal Lecture, painted in 1632, for the dissecting room of the Amsterdam Guild of Surgeons. Among the monu- ments are two to the founder of Dutch in- «P^- % ,4i dependence. Prince i«SM# •^ .,^»4 Willem I, one to the chivalrous King Wil- lem II, and one to Spinoza, the philoso- pher, the National Butchers' Hall, Haarlem MonUmCnt (restoration of national independence in 1 81 3), and in the charming "Scheveningsche Boschjes" (Scheve- ningen Woods), the marble benches to Cremer and Verheul. Precious are the incunabula in the Koninklijke Bibliotheek (Royal Library), with a very artistic gable as also the medals and cameos in the collection of coins. In the Nieuwe Kerk repose the earthly remains of Spinoza and the murdered brothers De Witt. Among the Royal Palaces are that in the Noordeinde, the residence of the Queen, and the Huis ten Bosch (Palace in the Wood). The latter, situated on the outskirt of the delightful and extensive Haagsche Bosch, is famed for the Orange Hall, where Amalia van Solms, the Widow of Stad- houder Frederik Hendrik, caused to be immor- talized by the best masters of Rubens' school, the warlike deeds of the Conqueror of Cities The Prison Gate, The Hague in a series of paintings, partly symbolical and partly historical, and also because the first Peace Conference in Europe held its sittings here. During the summer of 1913, when delega- tions from every part of the world will visit The Hague to assist in dedicating the Temple of Peace, the many visitors will be entertained by historic processions and international exhibi- tions of agriculture, of aeronautics and of sport. The neighboring University town, Leyden, will take part in celebrating this festive occa- sion by brushing up its wonderful Museum and exhibiting the works of some of the dozen or more of the illustrious artists who were bom here. In that brilliant galaxy we find Jan Steen, Gerard Dou and Rembrandt. But while the casual visitor will be interested in viewing the pictures that may be brought together for this occasion the lovers of history will recall the gallant defense which the Dutch patriots made for 131 days against the besieging Span- NINETEEN Old Scheveningen Road, The Hague iards. To relieve the surrounded city William the Silent concocted the daring scheme to flood the intervening country by cutting the dykes in sixty places and opening the sluice gates at Gouda and Amsterdam so that his fleet might sail to the rescue and carry provisions into the city as soon as the great rise of the vsfater, com- ing w^ith the autumnal equinox should take place. The Spaniards, startled at the first news of the inundation, w^ere reassured when they understood the purpose of the Hollanders, deeming it certain that the city must fall before the waters could reach even the first line of fortifications, and they pushed the siege with redoubled vigor. In the meantime, the people of Leyden began to feel the pressure of famine and sent letters to William, and laid before him the sad condition of the city. The waters ad- vanced, the Spaniards began to abandon their lower fortifications, the inhabitants of Leyden climbed the tower to watch the sea, now hop- ing, now despairing, but they never ceased to work at the walls, to make sorties, and to resist attacks. On the first of September the people /L7 TWENTY 1 J of Leyden, from the top of the Tower, saw appear upon the distant waters the foremost Dutch vessels. It was a fleet of Zeelanders determined to save Leyden or die in its sur- rounding waters. At midnight, when the tem- pest was at its height, in profound darkness, the Dutch fleet renewed the battle, the Zee- landers fought like demons while the flash of the Spanish cannons lit up the terrible carnage. Fortress after fortress was attacked, vanquished and sacked, until all were silenced and the rescuing fleet entered the city. Here a horrible spectacle awaited them. A population of bony spectres, almost dead from Original Home of the Pilgrim Fathers, Leyden The Oldest of the University Buildings, Leyden hunger, crowded the banks of the canals, stag- gering and falling, and stretching out their arms towards the ships. The sailors began to throw them bread and then ensued amongst those dy- ing men a desperate struggle, many were suffocated, others died in the act of eating, others fell into the canals. The first rage of hunger satisfied, the most crying needs of the city provided for, citizens, sailors, women and children rushed into the cathedral where they sang in voices broken by sobs a hymn of thanks and praise. To reward Leyden for her heroic defense. twenty-one . ,*»l*»T*?»1*S'.TiWa:»"a>«^t^¥r?^;j>'aiSWWSli»?»/-^;. The Burg (Ancient Castle) at Leyden William gave her people the choice between the exemption from certain taxes or the found- ing of a University. Leyden chose the Uni- versity and thousands throughout the civilized vs^orld have profited by her choosing. The charter of the University of Leyden was modeled after those of the older universities of the Continent. Motley calls attention to the "ponderous irony" in which it was conceived. Holland still recognized its allegiance to Spain, the dream of an independent exercise of sov- ereignity, had never entered the thoughts of the people. Hence it was necessary to throw the majesty of the royal name around the estab- lishment of the young University. The charter proceeds in Philip's name to authorize the founding of a University as a reward to the citizens for their rebellion against himself, "especially in consideration of the differences of religion, and the great burdens and hardships borne by the citizens of our city of Leyden during the war with such faithfulness." The Senate Chamber, in which hang the portraits of the men, who, generation after gen- eration, have sustained and extended the repu- tation of the University, was described by Niebuhr as "the most memorable room in Europe in the history of learning." The names of the most emment men whose portraits hang there show what a power Leyden has been in the republic of letters. It is pleasant to linger around the Town Hall, but it must be left to its guardians, gaily painted stone lions, who have done sentry duty for over twenty-two ■■iiiii HO'' ~m/iS-iigiJs:M three hundred years, and in later days looked down on young Oliver Goldsmith dawdling here, on the boy, Philip Stanhope, receiving and sometimes reading my Lord Chesterfield's "Letters", on the studious Boswell, seeking Johnson's kindly advice and counsel, on Eve- lyn, deep in botany, and on other English lads, since distinguished and dead, who attended with more or less attention the lectures of Leyden's great professors. Americans are doubly drawn to Leyden since this city, by formal action, welcomed the Puritans when they found it necessary to leave their homes in Amsterdam, and on a house opposite St. Peter's Church a tablet bears the tes- timony to the fact that it was here that John Robinson lived, taught and died. The war, Louis XIV declared on England in 1 666 Gate, haahlem involved the neigh- boring countries and threatened Spain's holdings in the Nether- lands. To pacify Holland and secure the aid of her navy he made an alliance which threw upon Holland the burden of the war on sea. Her fleet, at first unequal to England's, was eventually aided by the pestilence, and the Dutch vessels triumphantly entered the Thames and terrified the Londoners as their guns sank the English ships at Sheerness. This bold move and the infesting of the coasts by privateers made England ready for peace, while the crafty Louis, by throwing troops against the Spanish Netherlands, caused Holland to doubt his honesty and finally to listen to the peace pro- posals. This was consummated by the treaties signed at Breda on July 31st, 1667, by Eng- land on one side and Holland, France and Denmark on the other. The last named coun- try, though not directly involved in this war, utilized the occasion to enter a partnership that might discourage Sweden from repeating the attack of eight years before. In this compact several colonies changed hands and it was agreed that the merchandise coming down the Rhine might be imported into England in Dutch vessels — a privilege that helped to de- velop the commerce of Holland and enrich the merchants of Utrecht and Rotterdam. Breda is known to us as the place captured by the seventy men who secured entry into the town by concealing themselves under a cargo of peat that was being taken in to supply the officers' quarters. In the scarcity of fuel it was difficult for the boatmen, who knew of the plot, to keep away insistent buyers until nightfall, when the half suffocated men came from their hiding places, over- powered the watch- men at the gates and let in the waiting soldiers to complete the conquest. In 1639 the Dutch destroyed the Span- ish fleet in aiding Portugal's struggle for independence. In the ten years' truce, agreed to in 1 64 1 , the two nations were to assist each other against any common foe, but the truce did not cover the colonies belonging to the con- tracting parties. The colonists of these countries were en- gaged in local con- flicts with varying success, but when fortune seemed to weigh house, alkmaar TWENTY-THREE w o I- t- A ^ favor the Portuguese, the Dutch, irritated by Portuguese ascendency, carried the war into Portugal, and by 1 658 they had practically destroyed Lisbon's trade. Through favorable alliances with England and France, Portugal became so powerful that Holland was ready, in August, 1 66 1 , to dis- cuss a peace proposition. While the matter was pending, Holland made conquest of sev- eral Portuguese colonies, so that the insistence for peace came from the other side, and in July 1669, a final treaty was signed at The The Ancient Church, Veere ■t^ M M^.aa*. B- M BK wM 1 E. m ^^^■"s^B^l ^i L IfflK' pi/ n-'f' - ■'■ "■ '^'^^memMtti^^^ ...|^.|.g \ ^^ffl l^ggBf^^^gB^.^L^B'iB T ISS^hShH ^Smm ^w Castle Brederode, Zandpoort, near Haarlem Hague, by which Dutch conquests were to be retained and in return for Brazil, Portugal was to give salt to the value of one million Florins. Louis XIV readily forgot his promises of 1667, and finding that Portugal was nursing a grievance, they formed an alliance and pre- pared to invade the Spanish Netherlands, not- withstanding the assurance he had given Hol- land that he would first give notice before taking such a step. Louis justified this act by claiming this territory as a part of his wife's dowry and issued to all the powers a manifesto to prove his claim. He occupied one town after another with but little opposition until he reached Ghent. The loss of territory fright- ened Spain into soliciting the aid of England and Holland, making to the latter most tempt- ing offers. The great De Witt, in his desire to be friendly to both parties, resorted to a compromise proposition and suggested that France be required to fix a boundary to her proposed conquests. This was too much for the proud Louis. It was true that the little Republic had not only achieved her own in- dependence against the colossal power of Spain, that she had saved Denmark from the grasp of Sweden, and that she had fought a drawn battle with England for the dominion of the TWENTY-FOUR seas, but these were trivialities in comparison with • the proposition that the haughty and proud France should be limited in her conquests. After various vain endeavors to make alli- ances, Louis, early in 1672, marched against the United Netherlands. It was a veritable in- vasion, like the eruption of the sea. Manufac- tures and trade were suspended, all the shops were closed as well as the schools, universities and courts of law; the churches alone remained open and hardly sufficed to contain the anxious throngs which crowded them. Many sent their wives and children to distant lands, together with their treasures, which others buried. In this low ebb of their fortunes, the de- jection of the Dutch prompted them to make the most submissive proposals, hoping thereby to secure what remained to them. Louis declined and demanded more. But more offensive than his claim of land were the demands which, if granted, would injure their commerce, wound their pride and shock their religious prejudices. He also stipulated that each year the Dutch were to present to Louis a gold medal bearing View of Gronincen R TWENTY-FIVE an inscription that they owed to him the preservation of that liberty which his predeces- sors had helped them to acquire. The injustice and annoyance of these de- mands inspired the Dutch to defend themselves to the last extremity. They determined to pierce the dykes and lay the country under water and then betake themselves to the East Indies. The De Witts were held responsible for this misfortune and the movement against them, starting in Veere, swept across the coun- try and ended in their execution on August 20th, 1672. The war was desperately fought and in its ramifications England, Sweden, Spain and Lux- embourg became involved. Finally convinced that exhaustion alone would terminate the con- flict in a bootyless victory, all parties seemed ready to sign at Nymegen on August 10th, 1 678, the document that brought peace. All that Holland lost, besides blood and treasure, were her settlements in Senegal and Guiana. As View of Arnhem TWENTY-SIX for Louis, he reached the boundaries of his conquests and his sun moved rapidly away from its zenith. Nymegen, where this famous treaty of peace was signed, will take her part in the peace festivities of 1913 by holding an exhibition of Roman antiquities in a building modeled after the "Casa Dipansa", of Pompei. This is made specially appropriate since here can be seen a small fragment of the old palace church built by Frederick Barbarossa, and the pic- turesque Valkhof occupies one of the seven hills on which this Batavian Rome was originally built and where Charlemagne erected an im- perial palace. Nymegen also boasts of the old- est remnant of ecclesiastical architecture in the Netherlands — the sixteen-sided Gothic Chapel, rebuilt a number of times, after being consecra- ted originally by Pope Leo III in 799. Nymegen naturally suggests its twin city, Arnhem, the Arenacum of the Romans. Real- izing the many beautiful trips that can be made from this capital of Gelderland, the authorities have organized for the second half of August and September a number of excursions, and those who utilize this opportunity will see Market Place and Old Church, Arnhem TWENTY-SEVEN where the retired Dutch merchants, who, hav- ing amassed a fortune in the colonial trade, and the officer, after long service in the tropics, elect to spend their last days. In fact one would be reconciled to approaching old age if a residence on the Singel could be guaranteed or a home in any one of the beautiful environs. There are here so many large trees, grass-covered slopes and suggestions of hills and valleys that it is with difficulty that one realizes that this is a part of Holland. The ambitions of Louis were not satisfied with the peace of Nymegen nor did he regard seriously the attempt to bound his activities, and to his eyes his sun had not set. He became embroiled with Alsace and asserted his sov- ereignity over certain Flemish cities. His pre- tentions alarmed Europe and drew into an alliance Sweden, Spain and the United Nether- lands, while his persecution of the Huguenots incurred the hostility of every Protestant coun- try in Europe. He alarmed the Catholic View in the Kronenburc Park, Nymegen TWENTY-EIGHT by his ambition and estranged the Pope by the con- tempt which he displayed for apostolic chair. William of ange, who nursed a persona, grievance against him by wresting the English sceptre from the hands of h i s father-in-law, and, reigning in England, he would turn her forces against the French King. When William, on November 1 st, 1 688, sailed with his fleet to seize the crown of England, the Spanish Am- bassador at The Hague caused a high mass to be performed for his success. By a strange coincidence just a century before, Spain had fitted out the Armada to wrest the English sceptre from the hands of a heretic and compel the nation to accept the Papal authority. Now she was abetting the attempt of a Calvinist Prince to expel a Roman Catholic King. France, allied with England, seemed a for- midable foe to be attacked by Holland single- handed, and it is not surprising that victory usually perched upon their banners rather than on the flag of Holland, but at enormous cost of blood and treasure, and "the people", as Voltaire says, "were perishing to the sound of Te Deums". Sweden, not forgetting the bonds of a peace- ful alliance, proposed that a truce be declared, and for the purpose of discussing the terms of peace, a conference was called to meet at Rijswijk on May 9th, 1697. On September 20th, of that year, three separate treaties were The Deer Park, The Hague signed between France on the one side and Holland, England and Spain on the other. Thus there came to an end a war which had lasted nine years. It drove the last of the Stuarts from the throne of England, placed com- merce on a safe footing and made it possible for England to become a great colonial power. Rijswijk, the little village that furnished the stage for this mo- mentus act, will play its part in entertaining the peace-loving visitors who will visit Holland in 1913 by exhibiting agricultural products of Westland, Pomona's pleasure ground. And those who come by the way of Leyden to see this quaint town will follow the route taken by the Pilgrims on the first stage of their long journey to America. veere TWENTY-NINE ^ The "Harincvliet", One of the Many Inner Harbors in Rotterdam In the absence of heirs to Charles II, the crown of Spain found three claimants: the Dauphin of France, son of the elder sister of Charles; the elector of Bavaria, grandson of his second sister; and Emperor Leopold, a de- scendant of Philip and Joana of Castile. Each of these enlisted their people in the war that was waged over the Spanish Crown, and through the interlocking alliances practically all of Europe became involved in the controversy. In the midst of this bitter war, an alliance was imminent between France and England, which, if consummated, would jeopardize the safety of the other powers. This possibility and the doubtful issue of the many-sided con- flict hastened an agreement for a peace confer- ence which convened in Utrecht, January 29th, 1712. So many interests had to be con- sulted before final action would be taken that it was not until April II th, 1713, that the t-i O /SA E OR PEACE Bridge Across the Amstel, Amsterdam treaties were ready for signing. France, on the one side, made treaties with England, Portugal, Prussia, Savoy and Holland, and Spain with England, Savoy, Holland and Portugal. All these compacts together form the Peace of Utrecht and unitedly they brought to an end the war of the Spanish succession, the greatest which had agitated Europe since the crusades. Utrecht is an animated academic town full of reminiscences of the one-time Episcopal gov- ernment. -The cathedral contains the grave of the last Archbishop, in the mint is a complete collection of Dutch coins and medals and the City Hall houses an excellent archaeological museum. It is the "Trajectum ad Rhenum" of the Romans, and ever since the last of the legion- aries were recalled from the banks of the Old Rhine, which finds its way through the city to the sea, it has been the scene of notable events. It was here that the first Christian Church was established by Dagobert, and it was here that the Phantom Battle, so admirably described by Motley, was said to have been seen. Utrecht was the headquarters of the Jansen- ists, the sect which, in the time of Pascal, gave THIRTY-ONE L 3 OuDE Gracht, Utrecht such trouble to their rivals, the Jesuits, the Bull Unigenitus notwithstanding — and in the little suburb of Zeist the Moravian Brothers have a home. Harvard, in speaking of the Utrecht cathedral, says: "Of what strange, surprising, terrible events has that tall, square giant been witness?" It has seen Princes and Bishops, Emperors and Kings, pass by its base. A hun- dred yards away a Pope was born, and yet it has witnessed the destruction of the emblems of the old faith. After having summoned Roman- ists to mass, its bells have summoned Protestants to their services. Often it has looked down upon Oldenbameveld, as he came to rekindle the flaggmg ardor of his partisans, and not only does it cast its shadow over the tomb of the Princess Solms, the wife of the Stadhouder Frederik Hendrik, but at its feet, Louis XIV, drunk with his greatness, in a day of madness, there caused the Calvinist Bible to be burnt. French bullets respected its arches, but in a night of tempest the nave was swept away. ^ THIRTY-TWO ..J What a romance might be written with the title,- "The Souvenirs of the Cathedral Tower." Among its numerous objects of interest Utrecht has a canal, the Oude Gracht, that differs from all others seen m Holland. The water in this canal lies far below the level of the bordering streets and the "riser" of the giant step up to the street pavement was made up of foundation arches upon which were built the houses that fronted the thoroughfare along the canal. To utilize the spaces which would otherwise be wasted, the vaulted foundations served as cellars and later were transformed St. Bavo Church and Coster Statue, Haarlem Canal and Mills, Zwolle into shops and now and then a lace curtain and window plants give evidence of human habitation. Utrecht, as a patron of art will, during the summer of 1913, hold an exhibition of early North-Netherland painting and sculp- ture, while Zalt-Bommel, nearby, will bring together a collection of old China to interest the visitor. In 1716 the relations between Peter of Russia and England became strained because of the unwillingness of the latter to lend aid to Russia in the trouble she was water Gate, Sneek having with Sweden and Tur- key. Charles XII invaded Norway, and the Tsar and the King of Den- mark agreed to make a counter at- tack on Schonen, while Holland was expected to be ready with a help- ing fleet. But when Peter offered flimsy excuses for his un- harbobgate, hoorn THIRTY-THREE The "Rijksmuseum", Amsterdam readiness to lead the combined fleet which he had so industriously brought together, he was suspected of having designs on Copenhagen, and when it was found that he was spending the winter in intriguing, so many doubts were raised that better counsels prevailed and a treaty of peace was signed on August 4th, 1717, at Amsterdam, by France, Russia and Prussia, in which it was stipulated that the Tsar and the King of Prussia would accept the media- tion of France to restore peace between them and Sweden. It is not inappropriate that the last treaty of peace made on Dutch soil should be signed in Amsterdam, for Amsterdam, "built on herring bones" and founded on commerce, thrived by the practice of the arts of peace. It is a Mecca towards which the traveler in Holland will naturally turn, for he has heard much about this Venice of the North resting serenely on her ninety islands. He has read about the great Rijksmuseum with its wonderful paint- ings of Rembrant, Dou, Steen, Ruysdael, Hals, and scores of other artists who have made Dutch art famous. And returning friends have told him of the busy street and canal life, of THIRTY-FOUR the patient work of the diamond cutters, the unique Jew quarters, the clean streets and the well-fed, contented people. He will want to see the many places named in history and place his feet where illustrious men have trod and for a moment stand within the New Church where, since 1814, four Kings of Holland have taken the oath of the constitution. During Street in Monnikendam the summer of 1913 Amsterdam will be espec- ially alluring for then there will be in this city an exhibition of architecture and the graphic arts, a naval exhibition, a centennial exhibit of Woman's work — all of which will be fur- ther enlivened by illuminations, water car- nivals and the dedication of a monument commemorating the centenary of the restora- tion of independence, and the foundation of the Kingdom of the Netherlands. The nearby seaside resort, Zandvoort, will profit by the influx of strangers, and in return will seek to entertain them by a display of everything relating to the welfare and comfort of the child. The smaller cities of Holland, although they furnished no stage setting for the closing act of the great tragedy of war, are anxious to do their part in making memorable the great peace event of 1913. Boskoop will exhibit, during the second half of July, the roses for which it is so justly famous; Deventer, the busy manufacturing town of Overysel, will add a national festival of song to the horticultural exhibition proposed ; Domburg, the Zeeland resort that is the unique possessor of a magnificent forest and beautiful beach, quite appropriately proposes a display of bathing requisites; Gouda, conscious of the Villagers of Monnikendam part she played in the relief of Leyden, will show that her people can make other things as well as they make cheese; Groningen will make arrangements to enable those in- terested to see some of the fine stock farm, for which that sec- tion is noted; Sneek, mindful of the gal- lant mariners who have gone from her walls to add naval glory and commer- cial wealth to Hol- land, will have an exhibition of sailing, sport and fishing. Zwolle will bid the visitor to come to see Saw mill, south Holland 'tfftf^kjgitf ;;• tir ';rrfit^< v/-" 1.^ v/i:,^:. ■', .a r.i^'- THIRTY-FIVE Botanical Gardens, Leeuwarden her old Sassen-Poort, or Saxon gateway, and look upon samples of local skill and in- dustry. Haarlem hardly needs any special attractions, for every one will want to see the acres of tulips and hyacinths planted so closely together that they seem to be huge car- pets, with the brightest colors in their designs, laid by mother earth for her own housekeeping, but Haarlem is proud of her art treasures, and these will be increased by loans of paintings and a display of Costeriana — for the Haarlemer knows that Coster, a former dweller in that city, was the inventor of printing from movable type. s'Hertogenbosch and Maastricht will place emphasis upon the need to satisfy intel- lectual appetites and will give, during the sum- mer, at frequent intervals, historical processions, and classic plays. Middelburg, with the gar- rulous chimes of the Nieuwe Kerk, will want to show the stranger that here the great naval hero, De Ruyter, was born, as well as Jansen, the inventor of the telescope and the microscope. THIRTY-SIX and Jacob Cats, the humorist-poet-philosopher, and at the same time afford an opportunity to see the varied and beautiful costumes of the island of Walcheren. Leeuwarden will hope the visitor will want to see the Olde Hove, the unfinished tower that, in its disregard for the perpendicular Quaint Marken emulates the tower of Pisa. But the stranger can also find here a wonderful museum contain- ing a large collection of Frisian antiquities and an unsurpassed porcelain exhibit. Even the smaller towns of Muiden, Tilburg, Amersfoort, Coevorden, Gooi, Kerkrade, Valkenburg and Velsen are energetically making preparations to entertain the visitors who may come within their gates, while Rotterdam, always a living exhibit of commerce and industry, will be equipped with special facilities for seeing her docks, basins and harbor facilities. In addition to the peace treaties terminating wars which have been signed in Holland, many treaties of alliance to prevent bloodshed have been contracted upon Dutch soil. Among these may be mentioned the alliance between Spain and France, made at Nymegen, Sep- tember 1 7th, 1617, between Portugal and Holland at The Hague in July, 1 669, between Spain, Holland and Brandenburg at The Hague August 30th, 1673, between England and Holland at The Hague, January 10th, 1678, and between Great Britain and Prussia at Loo, January 13th, 1788; and on April 9th, 1609, at Bergen-op-Zoom, a truce of twelve years was agreed to by Spain and the States General of Holland. Holland has provoked no war with the hope of gain and waged no battle with spoils in view. Ultimate peace and security have been the ends in mind and her forces have been found, in the main, on the defensive side. Her war with the sea has had for its purpose resistance to the sea's encroachment, and she fought Spain for personal and religious liberty. Liberty was to the Dutch not limited to their personal enjoyment, but, so far as their influence and power could go, it was employed in seeking liberty for others. Thus the Jews, who were despised because they were thrifty, plundered because they were rich, and harassed because they clung tenacious- A Marken Interior ly to their ancient faith and customs, found an asylum in Holland. The Jansenists, expelled from France, found a refuge in Utrecht and a recognition when recognition was a dangerous offense. And the Puritans, driven from Eng- land for conscience sake, were welcomed in THIRTY-SEVEN Amsterdam and helped to become owners of homes in Leyden. It is, therefore, most appropriate that Peace Congresses should convene in Holland and that a Court of Arbitration should find a home with- in her territory. And the climax of the fitness of things is found in the fact that Mr. Carnegie, whose business interests encircled the globe, whose heart beats in sympathy with the throb of every aching human heart, and whose bene- factions know neither geographic boundaries nor racial limitations, should donate the means for the erection of a temple of Peace Holland, the Home of Peace. m The Peace Palace at The Hague, Holland THIRTY-EIGHT ^./follanc/ lie /comes the yVorM in 1913 fy^esteoa/s and ^xhiBitions in Uhirtu kO uteri (cities ( Unoustri^ — «/7/'/ — -^gricultupe ) in (commemoration of the i^entenarij of the tj^ounoation of the tJy^ingoom of the •^\ ether lands ana the kOedication of the J. eace J. alace cfull particulars ivlll l>e furnis/ietJ. upon application to the Official Unformation Office, U5 L. VoorAout, ^he -^ague THIRTY-NINE -mams j::: . ;