F 144 .P9 C72 Class Book l^tOrr^ Copyright N!'. CQEHUGHT DEMsm Guide to Princeton Guide to Princeton The Town The University By Varnum Lansing Collins Princeton University Press Princeton, N.J. London: Humphrey Milford Oxford University Press 1919 Copyright, 1919, by The Princeton University Press, Princeton, N. J. Published 1919 JUL -3 ISIB ©GU520061 Foreword This Guide attempts to be nothing more than an aid to the transient visitor who de- sires not only to see the University intelli- gently but also to have pointed out to him some of the historic or otherwise interesting spots in or near the village of Princeton. For fuller details than could properly be included in the purpose of this little book, the reader is referred to: J. F. Hageman, Princeton and Its Institutions; J. R. Wil- liams, Handbook of Princeton; John Mac- lean, History of the College of New Jersey; E. M. Norris, Story of Princeton; and V. L. Collins, Princeton. The last three volumes relate only to the University. ''There they are! above the green trees shining- Old towers that top the castles of our dreams — "" — Robert Bridges, "The Tourers of Princeton.' CONTENTS Foreword 5 The Town 1 1 Walks 56 The University 57 The Town The Town Against the northwest sky-line as the train reaches Princeton Junction, half way be- tween New York and Philadelphia, across three miles of green fields and woodland the gray roofs and towers of Princeton may be seen lifting above the trees. The hamlet which in 1724 was thus named was settled before the end of the 17th cen- tury; but as late as 1675 the region was still a wilderness, with but a single Indian trail through it, "a. small path" so a Quaker pioneer called it, along which one travelled all day "and saw no tame creature." Like most Indian trails, this one followed high ground, and eventually became the main post road between New York and Philadel- phia, the King's Highway on which was played the varying pageant of colonial days*. 12 Guide to Princeton Along this route Washington with his army retreated across New Jersey in 1776, and after the Battle of Princeton followed it back through the village as far as Kingston where he turned off to Morris- town and safety. It is now a portion of the Lincoln Highway. So much as lies within the borough of Princeton is today known as Nassau Street and its extension Stockton Street. As the halfway halting-place for the stage coaches to and from Philadelphia and New York, the village acquired importance even before the natural advantages of its physical situation brought to it the final location of the College of New Jersey. The taverns at Princeton were reputed to be better than average, and one or two remained famous long after coaching days were over. Among those which have vanished, tilie "Hudibras," situated at the corner of Nas- sau Street and College Place, (formerly College Lane), the driveway on the Uni- versity campus leading between Dickinson Hall and the Library, was one of the best The Town 13 known. By 1765 it was already "noted and well accustomed." At the "Hudibras" John Adams, future president of the United States, put up when he spent a Sunday in Princeton in 1774 with other New England delegates to the First Continental Cogress at Philadelphia. The Inn was kept at that time by Colonel Jacob Hyer, a Revolu- tionary character and local quartermaster. Probably the oldest buildings still ex- tant on Nassau Street were former inns, as for example, the modest two-story build- ing at 68 and 70 Nassau Street. This former tavern is mentioned, it is believed, as early as 1750. During the Revolution it was known as the "Washington Arms House." It then had a green in front of it and a flag staff around which the Fourth of July was celebrated. Rochambeau spent a night here in August 1781 when his army encamped at Princeton on the way to York- town. It figured in October 1781 in the local celebration of Cornwallis' surrender, and in 1783 in the celebration of the cessa- tion of hostilities. 14 Guide to Princeton Just as old, although it has not preserved its ancient appearance, is the Nassau Inn, the oldest hotel in Princeton. The original portion of the building was erected in 1757 as the private residence of Judge Thomas Leonard, being then the finest house in the village, the brick having been imported from Holland. It has been a hotel continuously since 1769. In the i8th century it was best known as the "Sign of the College," or as the "College Inn." During the opening years of the 19th century John Gifford won high reputation as its proprietor. In his advertisement in the newspapers of 1800 he suggests the reason : "The traveller who shapes his way Thro' heat and cold, thro' thick and thin, Secure shall meet, all times of day, Kind treatment at the College Inn" Most popular of all the proprietors of this famous hostelry however was Gififord's successor, John Joline, who managed the establishment from about 1812 to 1836. During his proprietorship coaching travel through Princeton reached its height ; newer and handsomer vehicles took the place of The Town 15 old; there were several competing lines; as many as fifteen coaches would often start off each way together, and a hundred horses would be waiting to take the place of jaded steeds arriving. Obviously Joline's was an exciting and popular resort, and the students of the college were forbidden not only to enter the tavern but even to loiter around arriving or departing coaches. The col- lege Commencement ball was usually held at Joline's, and is often referred to by con- temporary travelers. It was here that James K. Paulding and Washington Irving, im- mortalizing a visit to Princeton in 181 3, set the scene of the "Lay of the Scottish Fiddler," — an itinerant minstrel who accord- ing to the last lines of the poem long re- mained a ghostly visitant of the old tavern : "Once a year he deigns to play First fiddle on Commencement Day, When in Joline's high stately hall Is held the students' annual ball." The ball now takes place in the gymna- sium, and the only formal — or informal — college function connected with "The Nass" is the speech delivered from the balcony as a i6 Guide to Princeton feature of the undergraduate St. Patrick's Day Parade. Across the street is the First Presbyter- ian Church of which the organization dates from 1755, aUhough no step was taken toward erecting a church before 1762. Prior to this date the people of Princeton rented pews in the college chapel in Nassau Hall, and heard Presidents Aaron Burr, Jonathan Edwards, Samuel Davies and Samuel Finley, who, besides being presi- dents of the college, were also pastors of the local congregation. In 1762 the college loaned both money and land to the churcli for the purpose of erecting a building but the edifice was not completed until 1766. It stood on the present site but was placed parallel to the street. On the occupation of Princeton by the British ten years later, troops were quartered in the church, a fireplace was built in it, a chimney was carried through the roof, and the pews and gallery were used for fuel. On the evacua- tion of Princeton by the enemy, the church was used by the American troops and it was not fully restored until after the close The Town 17 of the war. By arrangement with the church, the college Commencements until 1896 were held here, one or two of them being famous. The most interesting was that of 1783 attended by General Washing- ton, the Continental Congress, the French Minister, La Luzerne, and important offi- ,cials of the national government. In 1814, General Winfield Scott, commanding a body of troops on their way to the front, was a distinguished guest at the Commencement exercises and the recipient of marked honors. The church had been destroyed by fire the year before and had been rebuilt in haste, but in the present situation at right angles to the street. It was burned down a second time in 1835. The present edifice dates from that restoration with certain modern alterations and improvements. The present parsonage is on Library Place, but a for- mer parsonage was the Wiggins House on Witherspoon Street. On the corner of Chambers Street is the Second Presbyterian Church, organized in 1847. The present building dates from 1868, but still lacks its steeple. l8 Guide to Princeton At the west end of Nassau Street, beyond University Place and Mercer Street, past the small park where Bayard Lane turns sharply to the right, Nassau Street contin- ues as Stockton Street, A few yards along Stockton Street on the left is Trinity Church, organized in 1833. The present building dates from 1868 and has recently been enlarged and beautified by a stone choir and apse designed by Ralph Adams Cram. The tower contains a chime of ten bells by Meneely, all of which are memorials. In the church are numerous memorials to early parishioners. A stone set over the chancel door is from the 13th century church of St. Oswald's at Malpas, the Stockton home in England. The church property extends through to Mercer Street. Opposite Trinity Church is the former Princeton Inn, now a girls' school, on land which formed part of the estate of "Morven." The Princeton Battle Monu- ment is between the Inn and *'Morven." The group, which is 26 feet high placed in relief against a 50-foot column, represents Washington on horseback sternly refusing The Town 19 defeat at the Battle of Princeton, and in- spiring his tired troops to final victory. The female figure is young Liberty with a banner urging the soldiers forward. The group is by Macmonnies, and the architectural de- sign by Thomas Hastings. Morven has been the home of the Prince- ton Stocktons since Richard Stockton, grandfather of the Signer of the Declara- tion of Independence, purchased the land from William Penn in 1701. The Signer's father built the main portion of the house probably between 1701 and 1709. The name dates from the time of Richard Stock- ton, the Signer. He improved the planta- tion extensively, the row of catalpas on the street front and most if not all of the older trees on the property, which in his day was very extensive, being set out by him. He and his wife made "Morven" one of the most charming residences in the State, no less famous for the beauty of its garden and grounds than for the hospitality of its own- ers. Enlarged by later generations, the home has, however, maintained its colonial atmosphere. The old brick slave quarters 20 Guide to Princeton are still to be seen in the rear. When the British occupied Princeton in 1776 "Mor- ven" was for a time the headquarters of Lord CornwalHs. The house and property suffered in the general plundering of the neighborhood. The history of the house is brilliant, but possibly it never had a more interesting period than when the Continen- tal Congress was in Princeton in the sum- mer and autumn of 1783 and "iVIr. Elias Boudinot, president of Congress and brother of Mrs. Stockton, made **Morven" his offi- cial residence, with the result that it en- tertained a succession of distinguished guests. A particularly memorable state din- ner was served on the Fourth of July in 1783 when the entire Congress was present. General Washington was a warm friend of Mrs. Stockton and among his papers are several autograph specimens of her skill at verse writing, addressed to him, with cop- ies of his acknowledgments. Opposite ''Morven" is Thomson Hall, formerly "Belgarde," the residence of the late Mrs. Josephine Thomson Swann of Princeton, who bequeathed the property The Town 21 to the borough of Princeton as a town hall and park. The house contains an auditor- ium and public library, while the executive offilces of the borough are in a separate building on the Mercer Street side of the grounds. , In Thomson Hall may be seen the ship's bell of the U. S. S. Princeton, the first screw propelled steam war vessel ever built. De- signed by the famous engineer Ericsson, under the patronage of Commodore (then Captain) R. F. Stockton, it was named in the latter's honor after his home town. In February 1844 on the Potomac River, one of her guns, the "Peacemaker," then the largest piece of ordnance afloat, burst, killing sev- eral distinguished guests, among them the Secretary of State and the Secretary of the Navy. Just within the entrance to the grounds of Thomson Hall is Rose Cottage — so known at least as early as 1803, when it was the residence of Mrs. Robert Field, daughter of Richard Stockton, the Signer. The rose gardens from which it derived it name have long since disappeared, and the 22 Guide to Princeton cottage during the recent European war was a tea-house conducted by a group of ladies of Princeton in the interest of the Red Cross and of French reconstruction work, having under its particular care the village of Saint Paul aux Bois. Returning now to Bayard Lane, on the right hand corner is the Garrett House, owned by Mr. Robert Garrett of Baltimore, and built by Mr. John Potter in 1825, being the residence of Commodore R. F. Stock- ton, U. S. N., during his father's lifetime. The second house on the left hand side of this street is The Peacock Inn, an old resi- dence moved from Nassau Street (approxi- mately where Madison Hall begins) to make room for University Hotel (afterwards known as University Hall), which was itself removed to make room for Madison Hall. The house was the i8th century home of Jonathan Deare, a prominent Princeton pa- triot, member of the New Jersey Provincial Congress in 1775 and later of the State Leg- islature. After removal to Bayard Lane, it was occupied by Colonel William Libbey of Princeton until the erection of Thanet The Town 2^ Lodge, his large stone residence diagonally across the street in the residence park *'Greenholm." This park was formerly a playing field used by the undergraduates of the college. North of Thanet Lodge is Avalon, the home of Dr. Henry van Dyke. Part of the house dates from the i8th century so it is believed, at that time being owned by Dr. Edmund Bainbridge, uncle of the Commo- dore (see later, Bainbridge House), and subsequently by the Hon. Samuel Bayard. Across the street from Avalon is West- land, residence of the late Ex-President Grover Cleveland, who died here in 1908 (buried in Princeton Cemetery). The house was built in 1854 by the celebrated Commo- dore Robert F. Stockton, for his daughter. Next to Avalon is Merwick, the present residence of the Right Rev. Paul Matthews, Bishop of New Jersey, but formerly the residence of Professor George L, Raymond, and later used by the Graduate School of the University as a residential building, being Princeton's original Graduate College. Further down the hill on the same side is 24 Guide to Princeton Stanworth, the home of Professor Wil- Hani M. Sloane of Columbia University and formerly of Princeton University. Inside the gate of "Stanworth" is the common grave of Hessian soldiers killed in the Bat- tle of Princeton in 1777. The street turning to: the left behind "Westland" is Cleveland Lane, No. 25 of which was the residence of President Wood- row Wilson while Governor of New Jersey and when elected President of the United States. His residence while a professor in the University was No. 82 Library Place which he built. His residence as President of the University was at 'Trospect." His present (1919) legal voting residence is an apartment over the store at No. 10 Nassau Street, which, however, he has never occu- pied. The second turning to the left on Cleve- land Lane is Library Place by following which Stockton Street at right angles to it is once more reached. The Lenox Library of the Princeton Theological Seminary is opposite (see later). Proceeding west along Stockton Street we now follow what is The Tozvn 25 known as the ''Big Triangle" (Stockton Street, the Quaker Road at Stony Brook, and the Trenton turnpike back to Mercer Street) as distinguished from the *' Lit- tle Triangle" (Stockton, Lovers' Lane and Mercer) referred to in the campus "Triangle Song" by Henry van Dyke and reminiscent of bygone, riotous, undergraduate days: "V/ell the old Triangle knew the music of our tread, How the peaceful Seminole would tremble in his bed, How the gates were left unhinged, the lamps without a head While we were marching through Princeton." The first turn to the left on Stockton Street is Edgehill Street, on the right hand of which is an old stone house known as The Barracks. The street wall is modern, but the house itself is one of the oldest in Princeton, if not the oldest, having been a portion of the Stockton homestead before the erection of "Morven." The house has been carefully enlarged by the present own- er, Professor J. Duncan Spaeth, of the Uni- 26 Guide to Princeton versity. It derives its name, if a well found- ed tradition be accepted, from the fact that it was used as a barracks during the Revo- lution. It is possible, however, that the name antedates that period, as there are nu- merous indications that the convenient loca- tion of Princeton frequently made it a mili- tary post, and it is well known that the vil- lagers petitioned for the erection of a bar- racks during the French and Indian War, when this house may have been so used and have acquired its name. According to a map of 1776 it was then known as the "Old Stockton House." Returning to Stockton Street, directly op- posite the end of Edgehill Street is Allison House, the residence of Mr. George A. Ar- mour, but originally built by Commodore Stockton for his son, John P. Stockton, At- torney General of New Jersey, U. S. Sena- tor, and American Minister to Rome in 1858, and after him occupied by Mr. Paul Tu- lane, a Huguenot resident of Princeton and founder and benefactor of Tulane Univer- sity, New Orleans. A few steps past the corner of Edgehill The Town 2^ Street is the property from which it gets its name — Edgehill, built in 1829 as a board- ing school for boys and for forty years one of the best known schools in this part of the country. It then became and has since re- mained a private residence. The estate beyond "Edgehill" is Guern- sey Hall, formerly 'Woodlawn," the home of the late Judge Richard S. Field of Prince- ton, but now the residence of Professor Al- lan Marquand of the University. The lane dividing "Guernsey Hall" from the next estate is Lover's Lane, a probable corruption of Loverly (or Lubberly) the name of a former owner of property at this point. The lane forms part of the bor- ough western line. The large house and property beyond "Al- lison House" and opposite "Guernsey Hall" is Constitution Hill, the residence of Mr. Junius S. Morgan. The house is built on the site of the residence of Quartermaster Rob- ert Stockton of the Revolutionary Army, an actively patriotic citizen of Princeton. According to persistent tradition the house took its name from the fact that the Con- 28 Guide to Princeton stitution of New Jersey was drafted here in the summer of 1776. Here Washington estabHshed headquarters for the few hours he spent in Princeton when retreating across New Jersey in December of that year. On the opposite side of the street, next to Lovers Lane is Drumthwacket, the estate of Mr. M. Taylor Pyne. Visitors may walk through the grounds but are desired not to approach the house. The grounds are best entered by the rustic gate on Lover's Lane, from which a path may be followed past the deer park and through the woods to the walks leading to the lakes and lower grounds. The house was built in 1832 and was the home of Charles S. Olden, Governor of New Jersey during the Civil War, and treasurer of the College. The property has been enlarged and improved by its present owner until it. is now one of the most beau- tiful estates in New Jersey. The little white cottage on the roadside, known as Drumthwacket Lodge and now used as an aviary, was built in 1696. From its front porch in December 1776 Washington re- viewed his troops on their march to Trenton. The Town 29 On January 3, after the Battle of Princeton, he came again to the door asking that British officers wounded in the fight be taken in and cared for, which was done. A few yards below this at the turn of the hill is the Washington Spring, where Washington is said to have refreshed himself after the Battle of Princeton. The American and British soldiers killed in the Battle were buried where they fell on a part of **Drum- thwacket." A monument was erected in 1917 on a nearby wooded knoll to mark the spot, and bears the inscription : Near Here Lie Buried The American and British Officers and Soldiers Who Fell at the Battle of Princeton January 3d, 1777 with these lines by Alfred Noyes, Visiting Professor in the University, written for the monument : "Here Freedom stood, by slaughtered friend and foe, And, ere the wrath paled or that sunset died, Looked through the ages ; then, with eyes aglow Laid them to wait that future side by side," 30 Guide to Princeton On the opposite side of the road is the entrance to Edgerstoune, part of the large tract bought by Richard Stockton of WilHam Penn in 1701, now the estate of Mr. A. D. Russell, overlooking the wooded upper reaches of Stony Brook and beyond to the distant hills. The wide grass allee, 1800 feet long, with Mt. Rose in the background, is very unusual. At the foot of the hill the road crosses Stony Brook (the Indian name was Wopo- woc), climbs Bruere's Hill and goes on to Lawrenceville and Trenton. At the triple- arched bridge, which dates from 1792 and was erected to take the place of the one destroyed in the Battle, are the remains of Worth's (or Bruere's) Mill dating from 1714, which ceased operation only in the beginning of the 20th century. The highway was originally at meadow level and the massive masonry of the mill wall seemed impervious to time, but the raising of the road and the use of the west wall of the mill as a retaining wall weakened the whole structure. The mill connects modern Princeton with the earliest settlers of the The Town 31 region, deriving its name from Joseph Worth, a Quaker who came to Stony Brook in 1696 and bought the property on which the mill was erected. His descendants in the family held the mill until well after the middle of the 19th century, when it became the property of Mr. Joseph H. Bruere, whose heirs own the picturesque ruin and whose name is attached to it and to the hill across the Brook. The road which turns to the left at the foot of the hill and follows the bank of the winding stream is the old Quaker Road, in a few hundred yards crossing the Trenton turnpike (laid out in 1807) and leading past the little Quaker Meeting House. The old bridge at the turnpike is particularly picturesque. The Meeting House dates from 1726 but was rebuilt in 1760. Prior to 1757 it was the only house of worship in the neigh- borhood of Princeton and was attended by all the early Princeton families. A Quaker schoolhouse antedating 1781 was near by, with a house for the schoolmaster. Both were removed some years ago. The Meet- ing House is a two story building with fire- 32 Guide to Princeton places at each end. Its enclosed burial ground is the oldest in the vicinity. The first settlers of Princeton and their descendants for many generations were buried here, but in Quaker fashion without stones to mark the graves. Richard Stockton, Signer of the Declaration, was buried here (see tab- let to his memory erected in 191 3 by the New Jersey Society of the Sons of the American Revolution) and also Governor Charles S. Olden. A quieter spot can hardly be imagined than this, where the ''forefathers of the hamlet" lie ; but it was only a few steps north of the Meeting House, shortly after sunrise on January 3, 1777, that the Battle of Princeton began. After retreating through New Jersey, past Princeton down the postroad to Trenton which the visitor has just followed as far as Stony Brook, Washington had surprised the Hessians at Trenton on Christmas Night in 1776, Lord Cornwallis with large reinforcements had reached Trenton late on January 2, 1777, leaving a British brigade in Princeton to join him the next morning, in his plan of catch- The Town 33 ing Washington in an untenable position. The latter escaped the predicament by si- lently slipping away during the night of the 2nd along an unguarded and circuitous route which led at length to the Quaker Road at Stony Brook and thence to the rear (or south) of the village of Princeton, where he hoped to surprise the British gar- rison, and hurrying on, possibly to seize the important military post at New Brunswick. The line of march from Trenton to the Princeton battle ground is marked at half mile intervals by stone posts on which bronze tablets have been placed by the Sons of the Revolution. The details of the engagement may be followed in General W. S. Stryker's Battles of Trenton and Prince- ton, and in General A. A. Woodhull's Bat- tle of Princeton — a Preliminary Study. Briefly, on reaching Stony Brook, part of the American force (under General Mercer) near the Quaker Meeting House was dis- covered from the top of the hill (Bruere's) across the brook, by the British commander, Colonel Mawhood, on his way with the van- guard of his forces to join Cornwallis at 34 Guide to Princeton Trenton. The ensuing engagement, in which the rest of the British troops coming down the postroad and the main body of the American army under Washington all took part, and in which Washington dis- played not only his personal courage but also his remarkable good fortune in escap- ing injury, resulted in the rout of part of the British forces and the retreat of the rest across country along the general direction of the present turnpike leading into Mercer Street, Princeton, and then not existing, back to the college campus and their post in Nassau Hall where they at length sur- rendered. After destroying such military stores as he could not carry off, Washington hurried on with his prisoners toward King- ston where, instead of going to New Bruns- wick as Cornwallis expected and he himself had probably intended, he turned off to Morristown. On finding his quarry gone from Trenton and hearing the guns at Princeton, Lord Cornwallis had hurried back to save New Brunswick and was only an hour or two behind in pursuit of Washing- ton. Not halting at Princeton he pressed The Toivn 35 on to Kingston, and as soon as the bridge there destroyed by Washington — the pres- ent bridge — had been repaired, continued on to New Brunswick. The American loss in battle was 30 enlisted men killed and 30 wounded, and 8 officers killed. The British left 100 on the field and lost 300 prisoners, of whom 14 were officers. Quoting General Woodhull : "Princeton was not a great battle from the point of numbers engaged or of casualties suffered. But it was a great battle when its conse- quences are considered ; when the influence of that victory upon the military history of the Revolution is weighed; and especially when one reflects upon the inevitable politi- cal result that would have followed a defeat upon that field." 'The field of Princeton remains practi- cally as it lay under the tread of war. The turnpike, now better known as the Mercer Street extension, has made a comparatively deep cutting diagonally through the first line of battle. The orchard and remnants of its surrounding hedge, standing within rea- sonable memory, have disappeared. William Clarke's simple wooden house, which was crowded with wounded after the combats, has been replaced by a greater one of stone 36 Guide to Princeton [Mercer Manor] on nearly the same spot. A forest that appears to have stood on Thomas Clarke's farm, south of the road, and perhaps have encroached to the east on ground partly cleared before the Revolution, is represented by one or two straggling oaks. Thomas Clarke's house, newly built shortly before the war, consecrated by the sacrifice of Mercer dying within its doors, is substantially unchanged excepting that what was the rear has now been made the front. With these trifling differences the visitor of to-day sees the terrain precisely as it was when Mercer fell, when Haslet and Neil and Fleming, Shippen, Yeates, Morris and Read were killed or mortally wounded; when defeat drew the patriot army backward to the very brink of ruin and Washington's invincible courage and superb self-control neutralized the impend- ing catastrophe, turned disaster into tri- umph, and forever closed the way to mili- tary intrusion." Going back now to the turnpike crossed by the Quaker Road, turn to the right to- wards Princeton. The turnpike was laid out in 1807 and runs through the battlefield. It follows in general the direction of an old backroad from Princeton to the Meeting The Toimt 2)7 House, used in early days by residents of Princeton as a short cut to their place of worship. Mercer Heights (residence of Mr. H. E. Hale) on the immediate right was formerly the Thomas Clarke house to which, after the battle. General Mercer was carried severely wounded, and where on January 12, 1777, he died. Visitors may see Mercer's room (bloodstains are still shown) as well as several relics of the en- gagement picked up from time to time in the field. A block of granite, with a tablet to Mercer's memory, stands in front of the house, erected by a Princeton volunteer fire organization named after him. A few yards further on, just before Mercer Manor (estate of Mr. H. B. Ows- ley) is reached a pyramid of shot by the roadside is intended to mark the place where Mercer fell but the actual spot was considerably further dovv^n the road, and nearer the Hale house. The land on the left of the road is part of "Drumthwacket." Nearly opposite the spot now reached is the monument to Brit- ish and American soldiers, already men- 38 Guide to Princeton tioned. The turnpike now passes the end of Lover's Lane on the left. On the right this becomes Olden Lane leading past Maple Hill Farm, the residence of Mr. Walter C. Olden and part of the original William Olden tract, bought in 1696 and embrac- ing the land from Stony Brook to the post- road. At the corner of the turnpike and Olden Lane is Peep-o'-Day, home of the late Lawrence Hutton, the well known dra- matic critic and author, who died here in 1904. The borough is now entered and the turn- pike becomes Mercer Street. On the left are the woods at the rear of ''Guernsey Hall" (entrance marked by the columns and architrave of the original Hall of the Clio- sophic Society on the College campus, re- moved to this site when the present marble hall of the Society was erected in 1893.) The depression in the road is the end of the ravine across which the last phase of the Battle of Princeton was fought. A British regiment left in Nassau Hall formed on the slope of the ravine and endeavored to check the oncoming Americans, but were The Toivn 39 driven back to Nassau Hall over land which now forms the University Golf Links, the grounds of the Princeton Theological Sem- inary, and the northwestern part of the Uni- versity campus. A glimpse of the Graduate College, with the Cleveland Tower and the Procter Me- morial Hall, is caught across the fields to the right. Continuing up Mercer Street, the main campus of the Princeton Theological Semi- nary is reached on the right. The Princeton Theological Seminary is a separate institution from the University, having no corporate relation whatever with the University. It is the oldest and also the largest Presbyterian seminary in the coun- try. An agreement was reached in 181 1 by a joint committee representing the col- lege and the General Assembly which led to the location of the Seminary at Prince- ton. In 1812 the first professor was elected (the Rev. Dr. Archibald Alexander) and in 1813 the Rev. Dr. Samuel Miller was added. Lectures and recitations were held in the professors' houses. In 1S15 the cornerstone 40 Guide to Princeton of Alexander Hall (or Old Seminary), the dormitory facing Mercer Street, was laid and in 1817 the building was occupied. It has the distinction of being the first build- ing erected by the Presbyterian Church in the United States for seminary purposes. Originally containing lecture room, refec- tory, oratory, library, and student apart- ments, it is now used solely as a dormitory. North of Alexander Hall is Miller Chapel, built in 1833, named after Dr. Samuel Miller, and containing several not- able memorials to early professors. The Gymnasium was erected in 1847 as a refectory. Hodge Hall, a dormitory in honor of Dr. Charles Hodge, was erected in 1893 from a bequest of Mrs. Robert L. Stuart. Brown Hall is a third dormitory, its cor- ner stone being laid in 1S64 by the Mod- erator of the General Assembly. The build- ing was a gift of Mrs. Isabella Brown of Baltimore. Stuart Hall, named in honor of Messrs. Robert L. and Alexander Stuart of New York, contains the seminary lecture and The Town 41 class rooms, besides two large auditoriums. It was erected in 1876. The Reference and Lenox Libraries, both gifts of the Mr. James Lenox of New York, were erected in 1843 and 1879 re- spectively. The two buildings occupy the lot between Mercer Street and Stockton Street. The main collections are located in the Lenox Library, the other building be- ing used as its name indicates. The main library is open seven hours in the day and three hours at night, while the reference li- brary is open every week day, eight hours in the daytime and three hours at night except Saturday night. The combined libraries contain over 106,000 volumes and 35,000 pamphlets, besides other collections. In addition to the buildings named, there are eight houses on the Seminary campus, belonging to the Seminary and used as pro- fessors' residences. The brick house north of Miller Chapel was occupied first by Dr. Archibald Alexander and subsequently by Dr. Charles Hodge. The corresponding house at the other end of Alexander Hall was occupied by Dr. Samuel Miller, on 42 Guide to Princeton leaving his private residence, now the Nas- sau Club. Opposite Trinity Church, the street to the right, now Alexander Street, was for- merly called Canal Street and was one of the principal thoroughfares of Princeton, being the direct road to the canal (opened 1834) and to the railroad station, when the main line of the railroad (opened 1839) was on the canal bank. In 1867 the rail- road was straightened, and at Princeton Junction a branch line three miles long con- nected it with Princeton. The stone building on the left, opposite the head of Alexander Street, on the land of Trinity Church, was built in 1847 for the Law School of the college. On the discon- tinuance of the school the building became the office of the railroad company (owners of the line on the canal) and in 1871 after the lease to the Pennsylvania Railroad, it passed into private owenrship and has since been known as Ivy Hall. It now belongs to Trinity Church. A little further east on the right hand side of Mercer Street, the house with high The Tozvn 43 porch columns is historic although not con- nected with Princeton. It was the Sheldon home at Northampton, Mass., and was brought to Princeton piece by piece in 1868 by the Rev. Dr. George Sheldon. Next is the Nassau Club. On this site Jonathan Dickinson Sergeant, a Princeton lawyer and patriot, had built a handsome residence which was burned to the ground by the Hessians in 1776 during the absence of Mr. Sergeant in Congress. The property came into possession of Mr. Sergeant's son-in-law, the Rev. Dr. Samuel Miller of the Theological Seminary, who erected (about 1813-14) the present building which was enlarged by the Club in 191 1. The walls are of stone and more than a foot thick; the old fireplaces, panelled mantel- pieces and other woodwork are still in place; so also is the Dutch oven under the rear porch. Before Mercer Street was opened in 1807 the gardens and orchards of this property extended north to Stockton Street (towards which it will be noticed the house faces), south to Dickinson Street, east to what is now University Place, and 44 Guide to Princeton west to Alexander Street. On this property General Winfield Scott encamped with his troops in 1814 on their way to the front. The union of Stockton and Mercer Streets has now been reached again and the tour of the 'Triangle'' completed. At a point between the little park and the corner of Bayard Lane, von Donop, the Hessian com- mander at Princeton in December 1776, had set up earthworks as a defence from possible attack on the post road. A Brit- ish cannon mounted on one of these earth- works was fired, (according to one tradition, by Mary Hays, the "Mollie Pitcher" of Monmouth), at the British columns under Cornwallis approaching from Trenton and Stony Brook in pursuit of Washington after the Battle of Princeton. This temporarily checked the advance, necessitating recon- naissance on the part of the British only to discover that Washington had no intention of defending Princeton, but was hastening away toward Kingston. In spite of discre- pancy in the records there is reason to be- lieve that the Big Cannon on the University campus was the gun here mentioned. The Town 45 Continuing along Nassau Street to With- erspoon Street, the large half-timbered building on the left at Baker Street is Upper Pyne, a University dormitory. The elaborate carving is interesting. The text **Nisi Dominus Frustra" (Unless the Lord build the house they labor in vain) is carved on the main first floor beam, and on the face of the sundial is the motto: "Vulnerant Omnes : Ultima Necat" (Each hour injures ; the last one slays). On the corner opposite the First National Bank is Lower Pyne, an- other University dormitory of similar style. Turning down Witherspoon Street just be- fore reaching the Cemetery the Wiggins House is passed on the right. This was built by Dr. Thomas Wiggins, an i8th cen- tury Princeton physician and treasurer of the college, on what was then his farm of some twenty acres. Dr. Wiggins was a mem- ber of the local Committee of Correspon- dence in 1775 and as such endorsed the dis- patch carried by a rider through Princeton before dawn on April 23, bringing to the Continental Congress at Philadelphia the news of Lexington and Concord. The "Wig- 46 Guide to Princeton gins House" was for some time the parson- age of the First Presbyterian Church. The Princeton Cemetery has been ex- travagantly called the ''Westminster of America." It contains, however, (in the Presidents' Lot) the graves of all the de- ceased presidents of Princeton University, except Presidents Dickinson and Finley, and including Jonathan Edwards, John Wither- spoon and James McCosh. Elsewhere are the graves of an ex-President of the United States (Cleveland), and a Vice-President of the United States (Burr), Justices of the Supreme Court and of New Jersey, mem- bers of the Colonial Assembly and Council, members of the Continental Congress and of the New Jersey Provincial Congress, sev- eral officers of the Revolutionary Army and of the United States Army and Navy, a Signer of the Declaration of Independence (Witherspoon), a Governor of New Jersey, members of the United States Senate and House of Representatives, and several of the most famous theologians in American Presbyterian history. Following Witherspoon Street about a The Tozvn 47 mile from Princeton and taking the left fork of the road (the Blawenburg road) we reach Tusculum, the country residence of President Witherspoon, built in 1773 (see date carved in the stone under the eaves). The house was the headquarters of the of- ficers of the 40th British regiment in De- cember 1776. The live-stock was seized, but the house and contents were not much damaged. Washington was not an infre- quent visitor here and the Dutch Minister, Van Berckel, made it his headquarters in '^7^Z> when he came to Princeton to receive audience from Congress. The frame addi- tion to the house is modern but the structure itself has been admirably preserved and is an excellent example of late colonial con- struction. Tradition claims that the ma- hogany doors were imported from England. The interior of the house is interesting. Dr. Witherspoon's study was a small room upstairs. 'Tusculum" is now the residence of Dr. M. W. Pardoe of Princeton. Returning to the corner of Witherspoon and Nassau Streets and following the latter east, on the northwest corner of Nassau 48 Guide to Princeton Street and Vandeventer Avenue is the Bainbridge House (now the Public Li- brary). Built in the i8th century it belonged for over a hundred years to a branch of the Stockton family. It acquired its present name as the birthplace of Commodore Wil- liam Bainbridge of the United States Navy, who was born in 1774, the son of Dr. Ab- salom Bainbridge, a Princeton physician, and who became the celebrated commander of the "Constitution" (''Old Ironsides"). The Beatty House (No. 19 Vandeventer Avenue), the residence of Mr. Oliver H. Hubbard, is historic. As the residence of Colonel Erkuries Beatty, of the Revolution- ary Army, it stood formerly on the south side of Nassau Street opposite the Bain- bridge House from which it was removed about 1875. Colonel Beatty was one of Lafayette's aides at Yorktown, and it is said that Lafayette spent the night in this house in July 1825 on his second visit to Princeton, during his triumphal tour of the country. It was occupied in the middle of the 19th century by a girls' school of more than local reputation. On the corner The Town 49 of Vandeventer Avenue opposite the Bain- bridge House is the Methodist Episcopal Church, erected in 1907 in place of the edifice built in 1847. Across Nassau Street in front of the Chemical Laboratory is one of the stone monuments erected to identify the route taken by Washington to Morristown after the Battle of Princeton. A block further east is St. Paul's Cath- olic Church, of which the organization dates from 1850, the church and parish buildings being, however, considerable later. At the corner of Harrison Street (one of the oldest streets in Princeton, appearing on all the early maps of the village, and leading directly to Scudder's or the Aque- duct Mills) was the suburb Queenston, locally known as "Jug Town," on account of a prosperous pottery manufactory formerly located there, but now become a part of the borough of Princeton. The locality had a period of great activity, with a hotel (cor- ner of Nassau and Harrison Streets), a chapel (on Harrison Street), a school, etc., of its own. The long low rambling Red 50 Guide to Princeton House on the left of Nassau Street just before reaching Oueenston, on Evelyn Place, was the site of Evelyn College for Wo- men, which had a brief career in the early nineties. The property has now been cut up into building lots. The large house with the white porch- columns, on the south side of the street just after passing Queenston, was the residence of the late President McCosh, built by him on Prospect Avenue, and moved to the pres- ent site after his death. On the north side of the street, just be- yond the borough line (Snowden Lane) is the well known Princeton Preparatory School for boys, established in 1873. Continuing along the road to Kingston, on the south side is a fine old pre-revolution- ary house, Castle Howard, one of the old- est estates in Princeton, having originally been the plantation of a Dr. Greenland be- fore William Penn conveyed land to Stockton and others in 1696 at the other end of the village. The present name dates from an eighteenth century owner, Captain Howard, of the British Army, but who at the The Town 51 time of his death in 1776 was a strong sym- pathizer with the colonists. It is said that he painted over his mantel the warning '*No Tory talk here," which remained visi- ble many years later. "Castle Howard" is now the residence of Mr. T. A. C. Baker. The scene of one of Dr. van Dyke's stories is laid here. At Kingston the road to the left leads to Rocky Hill where should be visited Rock- ingham, occupied by General Washington in the summer of 1783 as his headquarters during the session of Congress at Princeton. The property is now owned and maintained by The Washington Headquarters Associa- tion of Rocky Hill and is full of interesting relics chiefly relating to Washington. It is open to the public on payment of a fee of 25 cents. In the ''Blue Room" at "Rocking- ham," Washington wrote in October 1783 his "Farewell Orders" to the American Army. The property was rented for his occupancy from the widow of Judge John Berrien of Princeton, a trustee of the col- lege. It passed from her into various hands until it finally became the tenement of Ital- 52 Guide to Princeton ian quarrymen. It was then recovered through the patriotic energy of Miss Kate E. McFarlane of Rocky Hill and the gen- erosity of Mrs. Josephine Thomson Swann of Princeton, the donor of Thomson Hall, already noticed. In spite of the general de- lapidation of the building during its use as a tenement, the Italian occupants kept the Blue Room closed and in perfect con- dition, treating it as a sanctuary in memory of its historic association with Washington. The house was built in 1734 and in 1783 the farm consisted of over 300 acres. During Washington's occupancy, "Rock- ingham' 'became a rendezvous for visitors. Among these, Thomas Paine was a specially invited guest. On the Millstone River at the foot of Rocky Hill, Paine and Washing- ton tested the local tradition that the river could be set on fire, by stirring up the mud of the bottom and lighting the marsh gas thus released. One of the most important state dinners given by Washington while at "Rockingham" was in honor of the Dutch Minister Van Berckel and the members of Congress. During Washington's stay, his The Town 53 famous bodyguard encamped on the lawn in front of the house. The Aqueduct Mills on the Millstone (via Harrison Street and across Lake Car- negie) were located at the union of Stony Brook and the Millstone. In the Revolution it was known as Scudder's Mills, being owned by Colonel Nathaniel Scudder of the American Army. British troops were quar- tered at the mills during the occupation of Princeton by the British in 1776. The prop- erty was destroyed in December of that year, but at once rebuilt. On the south side of Lake Carnegie is Saint Joseph's College, the preparatory de- partment of Saint Vincent's Seminary at Germantown. These two institutions edu- cate young men for the Roman Catholic priesthood in the religious community called Congregation of the Mission, founded by Saint Vincent de Paul in 161 7 in Paris, and introduced into the United States in 181 7. On this side of the Lake is also the De- partment of Animal Pathology of the Rockefeller Institute for Medical Re- search. Here, in addition to the research 54 Guide to Princeton work of this Department carried on in the laboratory building, serum horses and other animals of the Institute are cared for in spe- cially designed buildings, and may be kept isolated for the study of infectious diseases, the prevention of which constitutes the pur- pose of the Foundation. In an additional building, erected in 191 7, the production of curative sera was carried on to meet the urgent requirements of the war. The village of Lawrenceville, five miles from Princeton on the road to Trenton (either of the trolley lines or by Stockton Street and its continuation) was settled at about the same time as Princeton, its orig- inal name being Maidenhead. Being on the postroad to Trenton and Philadelphia its name appears frequently in the records. It is the seat of Lawrenceville School whose history runs back to 1810. The School is planned on the ''house system" by which the boys live in masters' houses of which there are twelve or more. The mem- bers of the Fifth or highest form live in a dormitory known as "Upper House" and in The Toivn 5^ preparation for their university life have at least one year of wider personal liberty and responsibility than is possible in the masters' houses. To see the grounds and admirably complete equipment of the school, visitors should ask for guides at the Head- master's House. S6 Guide to Princeton Walks 1. Stockton Street, to Elm Street, to the Rosedale Road, to the two bridges, along right bank of Stony Brook downstream to site of Bruere's mill at the bridge, back by the old postroad. About 4 miles. 2. Elm Road on east side of Brokaw Field through Potter's Woods to Lake Carnegie, along the shore of the Lake to Washington Road and thence to McCosh Walk and the campus. About 2 miles. 3. Bayard Lane to Pretty Brook road and back by Province Line Road. Four miles. 4. Bayard Lane or Elm Street to Cedar Grove and back by Blawenburg Road. Five miles. 5. Nassau Street to Kingston, crossing head of lake Carnegie, following road along the lakeside to Washington Road extension back to Princeton. Six miles. The University S7 The University Founded as the College of New Jersey (charter granted October 22, 1746, by Acting Governor John Hamilton), the college was opened at Elizabeth, N. J., in the spring of 1747. It owes its origin to the energy and persistence of members of the Synod of New York. On securing a charter they as- sociated with themselves the leaders of the famous Log College at Neshaminy (founded in 1726) which had recently been discon- tinued. On the death of the first presi- dent, Jonathan Dickinson, the college was moved to Newark, N. J., where in Novem- ber 1748 the first Commencement was held. A new charter was granted by Governor Jonathan Belcher in the same year. Prop- erty was acquired at Princeton in 1753 and the corner-stone of the first building, Nas- sau Hall, was laid in September 1754. The College was moved to Princeton in Novem- 58 Guide to Princeton ber 1756. The title 'Trinceton University" was assumed in October 1896 at the Sesqui- cennial Celebration of the founding. The presidents of Princeton have been (i) Jonathan Dickinson, 1747- 1747, (2) Aaron Burr, 1748-1757, (3) Jonathan Edwards, 1757-1758, (4) Samuel Davies, 1759-1761, (5) Samuel Finley, 1 761 -1766, (6) John Witherspoon, 1768- 1794, (7) Samuel Stan- hope Smith, 1795- 1 81 2, (8) Ashbel Green, 1812-1822, (9) James Carnahan, 1823-1854, (10) John Maclean, 1854-1868, (11) James McCosh, 1868-1888, (12) Francis Landey Patton, 1 888- 1902, (13) Woodrow Wilson, 1902-1910, (14) John Grier Hibben, 1912 to date. The seal of the University is a shield resting upon a circle; in the upper part of the shield an open Bible with Latin char- acters signifying the Old and New Testa- ments; in the lower part, a chevron denot- ing the rafters of a building; between the sides of the shield and circle, the motto "Dei sub numine viget" ; on the outside of the circle the words "Sigillum Universitatis Princetoniensis." The heraldic description of The University 59 the shield is : Or, a chevron sable ; on a chief of the second an open book proper with the words Vet Nov Testamentum. The official colors of the University are Orange and Black. This seal was adopted October 22, 1896, when the name of the college was changed to Princeton University. It was taken in part from the old seal. Campus and Buildings The campus originally was a four and a half acre lot on the highroad, given by Nathaniel FitzRandolph, a resident of the village (see tablet in Holder Hall arch). It now comprises over eight hundred acres including land held in the interest of the University, with fifty-six buildings devoted to instructional, laboratory, and dormitory purposes, and over fifty others used for clubs, athletics, and various university pur- poses. Nassau Hall. Erected in 1754- 1756 on the land given by Mr. Fitz Randolph and named in honor of William of Nassau, (Prince of Orange, William III of England) as "champion of British liberties," the build- 6o Guide to Princeton ing was planned to contain the college refec- tory, recitation rooms, chapel, library, and students' apartments. Excepting the presi- dent's house (see Dean of the Faculty's house) certain out-buildings (fire engine shed, kitchen, steward's house, etc.) it was until the beginning of the 19th century the only building on the campus. Here all of Princeton's i8th century students roomed. The green in front of it has been the scene of several historic happenings. In the sum- mer of 1770 the students burned here, at the hands of the public hangman, the letter of the New York merchants breaking the Non-Importation Agreement. In January 1774 here took place the Princeton Tea Party when a bonfire was made of the en- tire college supply of tea, with an eftigy of the unpopular Governor Hutchinson of Massachusetts in the center, a canister of tea about his neck. On July 9, 1776, the Declaration of Independence was read here, salutes fired, and the building was illumi- nated. The surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown in 1781 and the announcement of the cessation of hostilities in April 1783 The University 6i were duly celebrated on the front campus; and here an interesting ceremony took place in September 1824 when the Marquis of Lafayette revisited Princeton after forty- nine years, and was received by the college and town. Recent memorable scenes on the steps of Nassau Hall have been the review of the torchlight procession of alumni on October 22, 1896, by the President of the United States (Cleveland) at the Sesqui- centennial Celebration of the founding; the conferring of honorary degrees on the Pres- ident of the United States (Taft) and the Chief Justice (White) at the inauguration of President Hibben in 1912; and the con- ferring of honorary degrees at Commence- ment in 19 1 7 on the Secretary of State (Lansing) and the Ambassadors of the Allies. The front campus is the scene of ''senior singing" on spring evenings (from about 7.30 to 8.30) the seniors occupying the steps and the audience grouping in a semicircle under the trees. The tablets set in the walls of Nassau Hall mark the ivy planted at Commencement by graduating classes. The 62 Guide to Princeton earliest stone is that of the Class of 1870. The ivy thus grown had virtually covered the entire face of the building but was win- ter-killed in 1917-1918. The glacial boulder fragment lying beside the steps is from Neu- chatel, Switzerland, the birthplace of Pro- fessor Arnold Guyot of Princeton, the re- maining portion of the boulder being used in the tablet to his memory in Marquand Chapel. The bronze tigers on the steps, modelled by A. P. Proctor, are the gift of the Class of 1879. The tablet set in the front of the steps records a significant passage in the speech of the Chief Justice at the inaugura- tion of President Hibben. On one side of the doorway is a bronze tablet setting forth the successive stages in the corporate devel- opment of the University; on the other, a bronze tablet erected by the New Jersey Chapter of the Sons of the Revolution epi- tomizing the history of Nassau Hall. In the vestibule is a bronze tablet erected by the New Jersey Chapter of the Society of the Colonial Dames of America in memory of the first presidents and charter trustees of The University 6^, the college. Opposite are a heroic bronze bas-relief of Elias Boudinot (by W. O. Partridge) trustee of Princeton, and Pres- ident of the Continental Congress at the time of its session in this building, and one of John Witherspoon, Signer of the Declara- tion of Independence, and President of Princeton University during the Revolution- ary period. The central entrance hall or atrium is to be remodelled and dedicated as a Memorial Hall to Princetonians who gave up their lives in the War, and will contain the memorial tablets in their honor. The record of Princeton men in service is at present temporarily posted on the walls. Military occupation during the Revolu- tion completely ruined the interior of Nas- sau Hall and restorations were not com- pleted for several years after the war. The interior was destroyed by fire in 1802 and again in 1855, but in each case the walls remained. Until the restoration after the fire of 1855 there were three entrances, one on each side of the central entrance with corresponding exits in the rear. The tur- rets at the ends of the building containing 64 Guide to Princeton the stone staircases, date from the restora- tion of 1855, as does the high cupola. The bell rings the curfew every night during the term time, a college rule dating from the be- ginning of the occupancy of Nassau Hall and broken only during the existence of the Student Army Training Corps in the autumn of 19 18, when virtually the whole student body was under military or naval jurisdiction. The clock in the cupola is the gift of the Class of i860. Before 1855 corridors ran through the en- tire length of the building; the prayer-hall or chapel was smaller; and the interior of the east end has been greatly altered to pro- vide space for the offices of administration ; but the interior of the west end has pre- served closely the original arrangement and appearance. During the Revolution the building was occupied as barracks and hospital by British and American troops in turn. Evacuated by the college in November 1776 and held as a British post until the Battle of Prince- ton (Jan. 3, 1777), it was recaptured by Washington at the close of the Battle, The University 65 Alexander Hamilton's battery firing the shots that led to the surrender of the gar- rison. Abandoned later in the day by Washington, it was re-occupied for a few hours by Cornwallis who was succeeded by American troops, the latter remaining until almost the end of the war. The first State legislature of New Jersey met in Nassau Hall in 1776, adopted the first State constitution, inaugurated the first governor of the State and adopted the State seal. Here in the college library room over the main entrance, the Continental Congress sat during the summer and autumn of 1783 at ordinary sessions, adjourning to the prayer-hall on the main floor on special oc- casions. The prayer-hall or chapel (now the Fac- ulty Room) is historic. Here in former times were held the daybreak and vesper chapel services at which attendance was compulsory. George Whitefield, the fa- mous 1 8th century evangelist, once preached to the college in this hall at 5 o'clock in the morning; the death of George H was com- memorated here with solemn exercises; the 66 Guide to Princeton funeral services of Presidents Aaron Burr, Samuel Davies, Jonathan Edwards and John Witherspoon, and of Richard Stockton, an- other Princeton Signer of the Declaration of Independence, and of Colonel Aaron Burr, former Vice-President of the United States, took place in this room ; here too the Continental Congress received General Washington in a public audience in August 1783 and tendered to him the thanks of the nation for his services during the Revolu- tionary War; later in the summer Con- gress also received in this room Peter van Berckel, the Minister Plenipotentiary from the Netherlands, the first foreign minister accredited to the United States after in- dependence had been acknowledged ; and on the same day the first authentic news of the signing of the Definitive Treaty of Peace was delivered to Congress by a special cour- ier from Europe. In later years the room was first the library and then the college museum. Ex- President Cleveland, a trus- tee of Princeton, delivered the address at the re-opening (in 1906) of the hall as the Faculty Room in which the formal meetings The University 6y of the Faculty take place. The remodelling and furnishings were carried out in mem- ory of Nathaniel Fitz Randolph by his de- scendants. The portraits in the Faculty Room are chiefly those of the fourteen presidents and of early trustees and graduates of the Uni- versity. The portraits of President Mc- Cosh and President Patton are by John W. Alexander. The portrait of William of Orange, Prince of Nassau, for whom the building was named, is a copy of the portrait at the Hague. That of President Wilson is by Frederick Yates. The most interesting picture is that of George Washington by Charles Willson Peale, the sittings for which were given at Rocky Hill, near Princeton, while Washington was in Headquarters there in 1783. It was painted by order of the Board of Trustees and paid for with money which Washington had presented to the college. The frame originally held a portrait of George H which was shot away during the Battle of Princeton. In the back- ground is a view of the battle and of Nas- sau Hall ; in the foreground is General Hugh 68 Guide to Princeton Mercer who died of wounds received in the action. Nassau Hall is now used almost entirely for administrative purposes, containing the offices of the President, the Secretary, the Registrar, the Dean of the Graduate School, the Dean of the College, and the private offices of members of the Faculty. On the top floor at the west end is the Psychological Laboratory. The Dean's House, official residence of the Dean of the Faculty, northwest of Nas- sau Hall and facing Nassau Street, is contemporary with Nassau Hall having been built as the president's house and until 1879 so occupied by all presidents of the University except Dickinson. Presidents Aaron Burr, Samuel Davies and Jonathan Edwards died in this house. In his diary Mr. John Adams speaks of visiting Presi- dent Withers poon here in 1774. On one of the study windows is an inscription scratched on the glass in 1804. The two giant syca- mores at the entrance gate are commonly associated with the repeal of the Stamp Act (1766) having been planted (or at least The University 69 ordered to be planted) the year before the repeal. The campus gate and railing at this point was called "Lazy Corner" in former times, being a popular undergraduate loafing place. South of the Dean's House and west of Nassau Hall is Stanhope Hall, the survi- vor of two buildings built in 1803- 1804, for recitation, library, and laboratory pur- poses, the other being in a corresponding position at the east end of Nassau Hall on the site occupied since 1873 by the Chan- cellor Green Library. Stanhope Hall is named after President S. Stanhope Smith and now contains the offices of the Treas- urer and of the Secretary of Business Ad- ministration. The corresponding building, formerly at the other end of Nassau Hall and now removed, contained in its basement the refectory and was at first called the Refectory. Here in the stone vaulted din- ing hall Lafayette was entertained at a breakfast served in his honor by the town and the college when he revisited Princeton in 1824. Subsequently the building became known as Philosophical Hall because the 70 Guide to Princeton laboratory of the department of Natural Philosophy or Physics was here. Here Professor Joseph, Henry carried on his experiments, especially in telegraphy, and from this laboratory as early as 1836 sent messages over the wire to his home on the opposite side of the campus, these being the first telegraphic messages ever sent. This fact was the keynote of the college celebration of the laying of the Atlantic cable in 1858. The dormitory south of Stanhope Hall is Reunion Hall erected in 1870 and named to commemorate the reunion of the Old and New Schools of the Presbyterian Church. Passing between Stanhope Hall and Re- union the main entrance to Alexander Hall is reached. This auditorium (W. A. Potter, architect) erected in 1892 by Mrs. Harriet Crocker (Charles B.) Alexander, seats about 1500 and is used for commence- ment exercises, public lectures, concerts and other large university gatherings. The mo- saic panels on the wall behind the rostrum, representing Homer surrounded by the he- roes and heroines of Homeric Story, were The University yi designed by J. A. Holzer. The high relief tablet to the right of the rostrum is in mem- ory of Henry M. Alexander, Class of 1840, a trustee of Princeton from 1863 to 1899. The sculptures on the south front of the building are by J. Massey Rhind and con- sist of the seated figure of Learning, on one side of which are figures of Architecture, Sculpture, Painting, Poetry, Music, and Belles Lettres, and on the other side Ora- tory, Theology, History, PEilosophy, and Ethics. The quotation ending the inscrip- tion is from Lucretius : ''There is no great- er joy than to hold high aloft the serene abodes well bulwarked by the learning of the wise." Between Alexander Hall and the street is the First Presbyterian Church mentioned elsewhere. Northwest of Alexander Hall are Holder and Madison Halls (Day and Klauder, architects), the Great Court of Holder being entered through the arch on the driveway leading from Alexander Hall. This is the approximate site of the i8th century pri- vate burial ground of the Fitz Randolph 72 Guide to Princeton family, and behind the tablet set in the arch are gathered the few bones found when the excavation for the dormitory was made. The tablet is in memory of Nathaniel Fitz Randolph, donor of the site of Nassau Hall. The Latin inscription records that ''He rests in our ground — ^^and yet his own." Crossing the Court, the Cloisters and especially the Holder Tower should be noticed. The the court is enclosed on three sides by the dormitory named Holder Hall and given by Mrs. Russell Sage, in memory of Chris- topher Holder, a Quaker ancestor (see tab- let with inscription by Dr. John DeWitt in arch under the tower). The cloisters form the fourth side of the court. Passing out under the tower into Nassau Street turn to the left. The escutcheons on the street front of the arch bear the arms of the orig- inal thirteen colonies. The group of build- ings now reached is Madison Hall, joined architecturally to Holder and containing the University Dining Halls, where the sopho- mores and freshmen and a number of upper- classmen take their meals. During the war period (1917-18) the Student Army Train- The University 73 ing Corps, the Naval Training Unit and the School of Military Aeronautics all messed here. The portraits hanging in the Halls are of alumni and officers of the University. The kitchen is in a separate building in the center of the court enclosed by Madison Hall. The latter quadrangle extends to the corner of University Place and down this street to Hamilton Hall, a dormitory (Day and Klauder, architects). The interesting architectural effect of the low archway lead- ing into the small court between Hamilton and Madison should be noticed. The in- scription in the archway, by Dr. DeWitt, is in honor of the Acting Governor John Ham- ilton, grantor of the First Charter, for whom the building is named. Turning in to the left from University Place between Hamilton and the Halsted Observatory on the right, containing the great telescope, 30 feet long, of 23 inches aperture, and other astronomical accessories for advanced scientific work, Campbell Hall, also a dormitory (Cram, Goodhue, Ferguson, architects), is found on the right. The vista of three arches and the steps 74 Guide to Princeton leading down from Nassau Street through Holder Court and piercing Campbell is in- teresting. Going through the arch of Campbell (named in honor of John I. Campbell, presi- dent of the Class of 1877, donors of the dormitory) Blair Hall, a dormitory, is seen directly in front, with the great tower and arch leading to a broad flight of steps. The arch contains tablets in memory of John Inslee Blair, Trustee of Princeton and donor of the building, and of Walter Cope and John Stewardson, architects of Blair and Little Halls and of the Gymna- sium, ''masters of their art and an uplifting influence in the development of architecture in America." This latter tablet was erected by the Philadelphia Chapter of the Ameri- can Institute of Architects. Until 1918 the railway station was located in the area at the foot of the Blair steps. Skirting Blair Hall on the right proceed to the short flight of steps between the end of Blair and the buttress wall of Wither- spoon Hall (dormitory built in 1877 in hon- or of President Witherspoon) on the left. The University 75 Note the Tiger Gateway at the right of the steps. The latter lead to the court of Staf- ford Little Hall, dormitory built in 1899 and 1901, named for Mr. Stafford Little of the Class of 1844, donor of the building, (Cope & Stewardson, architects), with Ed- wards and Albert B. Dod Halls, the for- mer, built in 1880, named after President Edwards and the latter (built in 1890, J. L. Faxon, architect) after Professor Albert B. Dod of the Class of 1822. Stafford Little Hall is connected archi- tecturally with the Gymnasium (built in 1903, Cope and Stewardson, architects), the main entrance to which through the massive tower leads directly into the Trophy Room, and this on to the floor of the Gymnasium itself. The Trophy Room contains the ban- ners, footballs, baseballs, cups and medals of winning Princeton teams and individual ath- letes. The Gymnasium proper is 166 feet long by loi feet wide. The running track is twelve laps to the mile. Downstairs are dressing rooms, hot and cold shower baths, handball courts and a rowing room with ma- chines for indoor crew practice. The rooms 76 Guide to Princeton opening from the entrance hall on the main floor are used by the offices of the Depart- ment of Physical Education and Hygiene and besides physical examination rooms, there are rooms for boxing, wrestling and fencing. In the adjoining Brokaw Memorial is the swimming tank, which can be reached also from the lower floor of the gymna- sium. The Brokaw Memorial is named in memory of Frederick Brokaw, Class of 1892, who lost his life while trying to save a drowning girl (note tablet in the arch). Brokaw Field lies beyond and is a general athletic ground used by class teams. The Elm Drive skirting Brokaw Field leads through Potter's Woods down to the canal and was the direct road to college when the railway station was at the canal. East of the Gymnasium is David Brown Hall (J. L. Faxon, architect), a dormitory erected by Mrs. David Brown in 1891 in memory of her husband, and below this is the group of dormitories formed by Cuyler and Fatten, both dormitories, the former (Day and Klauder, architects) built in 19 12 The University yy in memory of Cornelius C. Cuyler of the Class of 1879, 3. trustee and devoted alum- nus, and the latter (B. W. Morris, archi- tect) built in 1906 in honor of Ex-President Francis L. Patton. Several of the entries in Cuyler were given by the classes of 1881, 1882 and 1891, and by individuals. The entries in Patton were given by the ten classes from 1892 to 1901 inclusive, these classes having entered college under Presi- dent Patton. Brown, Cuyler and Patton Halls were the barracks of the U. S. School of Military Aeronautics maintained at Princeton during the war. Turning to the left and reaching the lower end of Patton Hall, the University tennis courts are found on the left and right. Im- mediately below the tennis courts is Goldie Field, named after George Goldie, for many years Director of the Gymnasium. Beyond this lies Foe Field, named in memory of John Prentiss Poe of the Class of 1895, killed in action in September 191 5 while serving with the British Army in France. These playing fields are provided for the benefit of undergraduates not members of 78 Guide to Princeton university teams. During the war Poe Field was the drill ground of the U. S. School of Military- Aeronautics. The han- gars erected for the "penguins" are now used by the Field Artillery Unit of the R. O. T. C. for part of its equipment. Passing the tennis courts we now reach Guyot Hall, erected in 1909 (Parrish and Schroeder, architects) the headquarters of the Natural Science departments of the Uni- versity. The building is named for Arnold Guyot, the eminent geographer and scien- tist who was a professor at Princeton from 1854 to 1884 (see very interesting tablet erected in his memory in Marquand Chapel). The museums in Guyot Hall are open daily. The building has a serviceable floor space of about 85,000 square feet (two acres) and contains over a hundred rooms devoted to scientific work. During the great war the building was given over al- most entirely to the School of Military Aero- nautics, the collections were stored and the space was used for the lecture and experi- mental work of the ground school. The Vivarium with large concrete aquaria for The University 79 sea and fresh water is in a separate nearby building. Adjoining are flying cages, run- ways, greenhouses, and a biological pond for studying animals under natural condi- tions. Passing on to Washington Road a view of Palmer Stadium (H. J. Hardenburgh, architect) across the road is obtained, pre- sented by Mr. Edgar Palmer, Class of 1903, in memory of his father, Stephen S. Palmer, the donor of Palmer Physical Laboratory, and for some years a Trustee of the Univer- sity. The Stadium holds over 42,000 seats and is used for the big football games and track meets. The former Olden farmhouse and homestead opposite the Stadium is now the Nurses' Home, for the Infirmary staff. The 19 II Football Team Field House across the driveway from the Stadium, pre- sented by Mr. Cyrus H. McCormick, Class of 1879, as a memorial to the team of 191 1, is used as a dressing room for the teams. Following Washington Road to the right and proceeding down the hill Lake Car- negie is reached, the gift of Mr. Andrew Carnegie, with the Class of 1887 Boat- 8o Guide to Princeton house (P. Satterthwaite '93, architect) pre- sented by that Class. The lake and boat- house form the headquarters of the Univer- sity Rowing Association. The lake was formed by excavating and enlarging Stony Brook and the Millstone River which flowed through the lowland. It extends some three and three-quarters miles to Kingston. A pleasant walk along the wooded bank of the lake brings one to Broadmead (the first turn to the left) which after passing through a group of half-timbered houses occupied by members of the Faculty, and crossing Prospect Avenue, becomes Princeton Ave- nue and ends at Nassau Street. If this walk is not followed, return up Washington Road when the Isabella Mc- Cosh Infirmary will be passed just above Guyot Hall. This is the University hospital and is named after the wife of President McCosh. Above the Infirmary is the Pal- mer Physical Laboratory (H. J. Harden- burgh, architect), presented by Mr. Stephen S. Palmer, a Trustee of the University, and erected in 1908. The statues (by D. C. French) over the entrance are of Professor The University 8i Joseph Henry whose most conspicuous work in physics was done at Princeton, and of Benjamin FrankHn. This laboratory con- tains an area of about two acres on three floors for the work of instruction and re- search, and has an exceptionally complete equipment. Some of Professor Henry's ap- paratus may be seen in the Museum. Opposite the Palmer Laboratory the first house is the Princeton home of Jesse Lynch Williams of the Class of 1892, the well known author and playwright, next to which is the Terrace Club, one of the upperclass clubs of the University. Further on at the top of the hill and op- posite the end of Prospect Avenue is Sev- enty-Nine Hall (B. W. Morris, archi- tect) the only dormitory on this side of the campus. It was presented by the Class of 1879 on the twenty-fifth anniversary of its graduation. The Bartholdi lions on the steps formerly stood on the steps of Nassau Hall, and were removed to Seventy-Nine when the Proctor Tigers were presented. The marble benches on the campus side of the arch are in memory of Charles McFee, Class of 1879. 82 Guide to Princeton The monkey and tiger grotesques on Sev- enty-Nine are by Gutzon Borglum. Prospect Avenue which is at right an- gles to Seventy-Nine is the club street. On the left is the Working Observatory, used for the Department of Astronomy, but with the exception of this and a few private residences on the lower right hand side, the street contains only upperclass clubs. The list of these is : on the right. Campus, Tow- er, Cannon, Quadrangle, Ivy, Cottage, Cap and Gown, Charter, Key and Seal, Cloister Inn ; on the left, Gateway, Dial Lodge, Co- lonial, Tiger Inn, Elm. The Osborn Field House (gift of Pro- fessor Henry F. Osborn, Class of 1877) on the corner of Prospect Avenue and Olden Street is used as a training house for ath- letic teams. Behind it is the University Field where all baseball games and espe- cially the Yale Game at Commencement are played. The Ferris Thompson Gateway and Wall (McKim, Mead and \Miite, ar- chitects) on Prospect Avenue were pre- sented by Mr. Ferris Thompson, Class of 1888. The University 83 Proceeding along Olden Street turn up William Street (first to left) passing the Princeton University Press (founded in the interest of the University by Mr. Charles Scribner, Class of 1875 (Ernest Flagg, ar- chitect) and maintained as a printing and publishing plant. It was incorporated as an ''association not for pecuniary profit," and its affairs are directed by a council of which no one may be a member *'who is not a Trustee, Professor or Graduate of Prince- ton University." Crossing Washington Road at the top of William Street and going on to the campus, to the left will be seen the long line of McCosh Hall, erected in 1907 (R. C. Gildersleeve, architect) and devoted entirely to lecture and recitation rooms and composing at present one side and part of another side of a contemplated quadrangle. The grotesques, gargoyles and other carving will repay examination. The Mather Sun Dial in the court of McCosh Hall, a replica of the famous Turn- bull Sun Dial constructed in 1551 at Corpus Christi College, Oxford, was presented to Princeton by Sir William Mather of Lon- 84 Guide to Princeton don (Hon. LL.D. 1905) to "symbolize the connection not only between Oxford and Princeton, but between Great Britain and America." The unveiling and presentation in 1907 were made on behalf of the donor by the British Ambassador, now Viscount Bryce. The monument has twenty-four dials in all. The square block supported by the shaft bears the arms of Bishop Fox, founder of Corpus Christi, Bishop Oldham (three owls), the University of Oxford, and the Royal Arms. It carries nineteen dials, seven in the escutcheon on the west face and nine in that on the east. Under the escutch- eons are vertical dials reading the hours and also indicating the months. The dial on the south face will not read during the summer owing to the sun's greater altitude at Prince- ton, causing the shadow of the point to fall outside the limits of the dial; but the east and west dials will read all the year round. The north face in the Turnbull dial has been lost and the few ornamental lines re- maining have been reproduced in the Prince- ton replica. In the cornice above the es- cutcheons are four mottoes, one on each The University 85 side. Above the cornice is a pyramidal block containing four dials (north and south, dials with ornamental angular gnomons; east, heart-shaped hollowed dial, the shadow be- ing thrown by a tongue of stone ; west, semi- spherical hollowed dial, the gnomon being a rod). The frustrum supports a globe rep- resenting the earth on which stands a Peli- can, the symbol of Corpus Christi (the peli- can in legend piercing its own breast to feed the young with its blood). The stone is cut away leaving six bands (equatorial, north polar, south polar, zodiacal, and two others), raised above the solid core. The shaft bears one dial on the south side of its upper part, with an angular gnomon, the shadow telling the hour and its extremity the month. The tablets on the shaft have no connec- tion with the dialling, that under the dial on the shaft being a perpetual calendar and giving the length of the year of various planets, and also certain lunar data. Princeton undergraduate custom permits only seniors to sit on the base of the dial. Passing through the arch in the corner of 86 Guide to Princeton the court (note tablet in memory of Hunt- ington Wolcott Jackson, of the Class of 1863, erected by the Loyal Legion) we enter McCosh Walk, named also for the late President McCosh. The Walk forms part of the axis dividing the older northern por- tion of the campus from the newer southern part. Its continuation west leads directly to the Tiger Gateway between Blair and Little Halls, already mentioned. At the end of McCosh Walk is Murray-Dodge Hall, the college Y. M. C. A. This building, the older portion of which, containing the auditorium, was erected in 1879 from a bequest of Ham- ilton Murray, Class of 1872, while the new- er portion contains the lounge, various class and office rooms and apartments of the resi- dent secretary, was the gift of William E. Dodge and his son Cleveland H. Dodge, Class of 1879, in memory of W. Earl Dodge of the same class. It is the headquarters of the Philadelphian Society whose history dates back to the first quarter of the 19th century. From this society have grown the Intercollegiate Y. M. C. A., The Student Volunteer Movement, and the World's The University 87 Christian Students' Federation. The sta- tue of the Christian Athlete facing Murray-Dodge commemorates the founding of the movement, and is in particular mem- ory of WilUam Earl Dodge, Jr., Class of 1879 (note the inscriptions). To the left and rear of Murray-Dodge is the Art Mu- seum, architecturally unfinished. The Mu- seum is the headquarters of the Art Depart- ment of the University and besides a large library of books, photographs and slides il- lustrating the history of art, contains several collections of value and interest, especially the very representative Trumbull-Prime and the Livingston Collections of pottery, the Morse Collection of Japanese natsukes, and the Kienbusch Collection of Japanese sword hilts. Notice also the portrait of Colonel Aaron Burr, Class of 1772, believed to be by Gilbert Stuart; a replica of the bronze bust of Lincoln by L. W. Volk ; the original plaster cast of the bronze statue of Richard Stockton, Class of 1748, Signer of the Dec- laration, by H. K. Brown in the Capitol at Washington, and a cast of the bronze relief of Jonathan Edwards, at Northampton, 88 Guide to Princeton Mass. ; and the important squeezes and other results of the Princeton Expeditions to Sy- ria, besides collections of Greek and Roman coins, gems and glass, and specimens of Greek and Roman marble. Returning to Murray Dodge, at the right is Marquand Chapel (R. M. Hunt, archi- tect), in which the University chapel exer- cises are held. The chapel was the gift of Henry G. Marquand and was built in 1881. The mural decorations are the Augustus St. Gaudens heroic bronze high relief of the late President McCosh, erected by the Class of 1879, a low relief memorial tablet in marble to Professor Joseph Henry by Louis St. Gaudens, a bronze relief of Professor Ar- nold Guyot by Olin Warren, set in a frag- ment of a glacial boulder, the rest of which lies by the steps of Nassau Hall, a marble medallion portrait tablet to the Rev. James O. Murray, first dean of the University, and three bronze tablets, one to the Faculty of the early sixties, one in memory of Dr. George Y. Taylor, of the Class of 1882, and Dr. Cortlandt V. R. Hodge, of the Class of 1893, niedical missionaries killed in the Box- The University 89 er Rebellion in China, and one to Daniel M. Rogers, of the Class of 1903, massacred in Turkey. The south and north windows by Lathrop are in memory of Frederick A. Marquand of the Class of 1876, and William Earl Dodge, of the Class of 1879, respective- ly. The west window by Tiffany is in mem- ory of Horatio W. Garrett, of the Class of 1895. A temporary memorial panel bearing the names of Princeton men who lost their lives in the war is placed in the vestibule. To the left of the Chapel is the entrance gateway to Prospect, the official residence of the President of the University, a large and stately stone house with beautiful out- look over an Italian garden and a wide ex- panse of meadows and woods, with a view of the Highlands of the Navesink in the dis- tance. The house was built in 1849 by Thomas F. Potter, a resident of Princeton, on the site of the i8th century farmhouse of Colonel George Morgan, gentleman farm- er, Indian agent and pioneer western ex- plorer. Colonel Morgan was a scientific farmer whose estate was famous in his day, bringing him into association with Wash- 90 Guide to Princeton ington, Franklin, and many other promi- nent men of the time. Young elms from his gardens were used in the planting of Independence Square at Philadelphia in 1785 ; he was a frequent contributor to agri- cultural journals, and was awarded a gold medal by the Philadelphia Society for Pro- moting Agriculture, the first to be given in America. Some of his 'Trospect" account books are in the University Library. His friendly relations with the Delaware tribe of Indians are of record; family tradition states that it was at Prospect that he re- ceived in 1776 from the Delawares the title of Taimenend or Tamany, the name of their patron saint. In 1779 a delegation of ten Delaware chieftains visited him bringing to Princeton three boys to be educated at the college at government expense, and setting up their wigwams on the "Prospect" lawns. In 1 781 some 2000 mutinous soldiers of the Pennsylvania Line, holding captive their general, Anthony Wayne, reached Princeton on their way to Philadelphia, and pitched camp at ''Prospect." After Lafayette and others had failed to settle their grievances The University 91 a Congressional committee headed by Presi- dent Joseph Reed of Pennsylvania and Dr. Witherspoon, President of Princeton, suc- ceeded in arranging matters. In 1783 the Princeton sessions of the Continental Con- gress were held at "Prospect" until the visi- tors moved to Nassau Hall. The room where Congress sat at 'Trospect" was thereafter known as "the Congress Room." In 1794 troops on their way to put down the Whis- key Insurrection were quartered at "Pros pect." An account of the estate may be found in the Princeton University Bulletin for June 1904. North of the chapel stands the Joseph Henry House, the official residence of the Dean of the College. This house was built for Professor Joseph Henry (see tablet in Chapel) in 1837 ^^^ originally stood on the opposite side of the campus, where Re- union Plall is located. It was to this house that Professor Henry used to send tele- graph messages from his classroom in the old Philosophical Hall, as already stated. The former name of the roadway on which the chapel and the Henry House now stands 92 Guide to Princeton was College Lane forming the entrance to "Prospect." North of the Henry House is Dickinson Hall, used entirely for lectures and recita- tions, erected during the beginning of Presi- dent McCosh's administration as one of the greatest needs of the institution, and named after the first president. The top floor con- sists of one large room called Examination Hall. East of Dickinson is the Class of 1877 Laboratory at present used by the Depart- ment of Chemistry as a laboratory for or- ganic chemistry, but given by the Class of 1877 in 1888 as a biological laboratory. Still further east is the John C. Green School of Science building erected in 1873 by the John C. Green Estate and de- voted entirely to the Department of Civil Engineering. Across Washington Road from the School of Science building is the Chemical Laboratory, built in 1891, also by the John C. Green Estate. Returning past Dickinson Hall the Uni- versity Library is reached, composed of two buildings united by an entrance hall The University 93 containing the delivery desk and the card catalogues. The building to the right on en- tering is the Chancellor Green Library, built by John C. Green in 1873, in memory of Chancellor Henry Woodhull Green (Class of 1820) of New Jersey, and the first separate library building owned by the Uni- versity. It is now the main reading room of the library and contains some 30,000 ref- erence books and periodicals. The marble busts (beginning with the right) are Presi- dent Witherspoon (presented by the Class of 1876), President McCosh (presented by the Class of 1873), John C. Green, brother of the Chancellor, founder of the John C. Green School of Science, and benefactor of the University, President Maclean, Class of 1816 (by Calverley), and Charles Hodge, Class of 181 5. Behind the staircase lead- ing to the gallery is the Charles E. Green Memorial Alcove, in memory of Charles E. Green, of the Class of i860, son of the Chancellor and a trustee of the University for many years and, as administrator of the John C. Green Estate, one of the Uni- versity's most generous and consistent bene- 94 Guide to Princeton factors. The Trustees' Room at the west end of the Chancellor Green Library is the meeting room of the Board of Triistees. The oak panellings and decorations (Ralph Adams Cram, architect) are a further me- morial of John C. and Charles E. Green. The portion of the building south of the Chancellor Green Library is the Pyne Li- brary Building in form of a hollow square (W. A. Potter, architect), erected by the late Mrs. Percy Rivington Pyne as a sesqui- centennial gift, and containing the main collection housed in two stack buildings, administration and cataloguing rooms, bind- ery, photostat rooms, seminary rooms for research, special reading rooms for History and Political Science and for Economics, and the Exhibition Room. Portions of the twenty-six special collections of books and manuscripts owned by the Univer- sity Library may be seen in the Exhibi- tion Room. A complete list is to be found in the University Catalogue. Mention may be made of the Morgan Collection of Virgils (670 volumes, chiefly prior to the i8th century), presented by J. S. Morgan, The University 95 of the Class of 1888, and containing all the rarest editions with scores of individual copies of extraordinary association interest; the Autograph Manuscript Collection (8,000 documents) relating chiefly to the history of the University; the Garrett and the Lytic European War Collections; the Collection of Cuneiform Documents (1,100 items) ; the Patterson Collection of rare and choicely bound books, chiefly editions of Horace (1,000 volumes); the Hutton Memorial Collection (over 800 association books, autographed portraits, paintings, letters, playbills, etc.) from the library of the late Laurence Hutton; and the extremely remarkable Meirs Collec- tion of Cruikshankiana, presented by Mr. R. W. Meirs of the Class of 1888. This collection is probably the most complete of its kind, containing about 900 volumes of Cruikshankiana, with nearly 700 broadsides, original drawings, paintings, and autograph letters by or relating to the artist, George Cruikshank. In an alcove of the Exhibition Room is the unique Hutton Collection of Deathmasks — over 80 masks (life and 96 Guide to Princeton death) presented by Mr. Laurence Hutton, and described in his volume Portraits in Plaster, which gives in detail the curious history of this largest single collection of its kind in existence. Other unusual collec- tions, kept in separate alcoves elsewhere in the building, are the Princeton Univer- sity Collection (8,000 volumes of Prince- toniana, relating to the history of the University or written by and about alumni and officers of the University, including the large collection presented by Col. William Libbey, Class of 1877) ; the Garrett Col- lection of Oriental Manuscripts (2,400 in number) chiefly in Arabic but in- cluding some 25 other languages ; the ex- traordinary Pliny Fisk Statistical Li- brary (5,400 volumes, 14,500 pamphlets, 44,000 broadsides, etc., and several hundred thousand clippings mounted and classified) ; and the Pierson Civil War Collection (6,700 volumes, 2,500 pamphlets and several thousand clippings). The Benjamin Strong European War Collection, con- taining full sets of official publications, state papers, pamphlets, proclamations, posters. The University 97 emergency currency and newspaper clip- pings, all relating to the European War, is distinctly exceptional and will be of inesti- mable value in future years as historical ma- terial on the war. The newspaper history alone consists of over 90 enormous volumes. Among the thousands of posters are the re- cruiting posters of the Allies, and national loan posters including the American Liberty Loan posters. Scores of cities are repre- sented among the sets of emergency cur- rency, some of which was issued a few days after the war broke out in August 1914. The collection includes all kinds of printed matter such as desk cards and envelope "stickers." Much of the ephemeral material is unique and cannot be duplicated. The Library contains 400,000 volumes ex- clusive of pamphlets. During the term it is open on week days from 8 a. m. to 10 p. m., and on Sundays from 12 m. to 5 p. m. In vacation it is open from 9 a. m. to i p. m. Leaving the Library by the west entrance, the main quadrangle of the campus is reached, formed by the Library, the marble Halls, West College and the rear of Nas- 98 Guide to Princeton sau Hall. Note the Library Tower, and the statues over the arch, above and front, James Madison, Class of 1771, President of the United States, and at the side Oliver Ellsworth, Class of 1766, Chief Justice of the United States; below are Presidents Witherspoon (left) and McCosh (right). On the tower is a large sun dial with the motto "Pereunt et imputantur." In the arch is a bronze tablet to the mem- ory of Algernon B. Roberts, of the Class of 1896, and at the corner of the south wall a tablet to the memory of George K. Edwards, Class of 1889, *'a loyal son of Princeton," whose undergraduate room in East College, where he died during Commencement in 1897, w^s approximately on this spot. The Big Cannon mentioned earlier, and in the center of the quadrangle, is a Revolu- tionary relic which after lying on the cam- pus for many years was taken to New Brunswick during the War of 1812 to de- fend the city from an expected enemy at- tack. It remained there until 1836 when it was brought back to Princeton by under- graduates for a Fourth of July celebration ; The University 99 it was planted in its present position in 1838. Around it are held the Cannon Exercises of Commencement Week, championship bon- fires and other celebrations. It also was the scene formerly of the freshman and sopho- more "Cannon Rush." The Little Cannon between the two Halls, and behind the Franklin Murphy Flagstaff (given by Franklin Murphy, Jr., Class of 1895) is also Revolutionary and for many years was used as a corner post on Nassau Street. Removed to the campus it was the cause of the "Cannon War" with Rutgers College in 1875 when it was taken from Princeton to New Brunswick by Rut- gers students under the mistaken impression that it was a lost cannon belonging to that city. After a retaliatory raid by Princeton students the respective faculties of the two institutions appointed a joint committee which settled the question amicably and finally. Behind the Little Cannon has been placed a German field-piece captured at Chateau Thierry, France, in which sector during the European War Princetonians were especially conspicuous. lOO Guide to Princeton West College, a dormitory built in 1836, is the duplicate of East College which stood on the opposite side of the quadrangle until removed in 1896 to make room for the new library building. The present marble buildings of The Halls (east, the American Whig Society; west, the Cliosophic Society) date from 1893 being erected on the sites of the wood- en structures similar in appearance built in the end of the thirties. Previously, the Societies occupied rooms in Nassau Hall, Stanhope Hall and Philosophical Hall. They are the oldest college literary socie- ties in America having had a continuous his- tory of more than 150 years. Founded be- fore the Revolution (about 1765) as the Well-Meaning and the Plain Dealing So- cieties, the latter in 1769 assumed the name, the American Whig Society, and in 1770 the Well-Meaning Society took the name of the Cliosophic Society. They were secret literary societies but with far wider scope than the Greek fraternities which were ban- ished from Princeton. Until recent years they exerted a most important influence on The University loi the campus being the center of college rival- ries and loyalties until the extraordinary growth and organization of undergraduate extra-curriculum activities overshadowed their purely literary and forensic purposes. The buildings contain libraries, auditoriums, reading rooms, and recreation rooms and the societies maintain numerous prize contests, and regular courses in composition, debating, and oratory, on the completion of which di- plomas are awarded. Older graduates of Princeton have considered the training of the Halls the most valuable part of their col- lege experience. Among the founders of CHo Hall were William Paterson, Oliver Ellsworth, and Luther Martin ; among those of Whig Hall were James Madison, Hugh Brackenridge and Philip Freneau. See Charles R. Williams, The Cliosophic So- ciety, published at the sesquicentennial of of the founding of the Society, for a record of Clio Hall. The Graduate College. The easiest ap- proach to the Graduate College is by way of University Place, Dickinson Street, Alex- ander Street, and the driveway skirting the 102 Guide to Princeton campus of the Princeton Theological Semi- nary on the south. The group of buildings will be seen on reaching the edge of the University Golf Links. The Class of 1886 Golf Club House is passed on the left (presented by the Class for the use of the University Golf Club and containing the usual conveniences, with dormitory and kitchen facilities for members of the Class at their reunions). The Graduate College (R. A. Cram, architect) stands on part of the Revolution- ary battlefield where the closing engagement of January 3, 1777, occurred. The retreat of the British followed in general the direc- tion toward their base in Nassau Hall which the visitor has just followed in the reverse order, with the diflference, to be noted, that at the time of the battle this whole region was farm land and open country. Visitors may obtain a guide at the Por- ter's Lodge, in the main entrance. The Graduate College group of buildings is formed around a central quadrangle called Thomson College (named for U. S. Sen- ator John R. Thomson, by his widow Mrs. The University 103 Jo'sephine Thomson Swann of Princeton, part of whose estate was left by her to the Graduate College). The student residential and social rooms, and the kitchen and ser- vice quarters are in this portion of the group. Adjoining the main college gate is the Cleveland Tower, 40 feet square and 173 feet high, with a memorial chamber in its base where it is hoped a statue of Presi- dent Cleveland may be placed. On the arch is the inscription : 'Tn remembrance of Grover Cleveland, President of the United States. Public office is a public trust." The tower was erected in 1912 by public subscriptions of the people of the United States as a memorial of Mr. Cleve- land. At the time of his death he was a resident of Princeton, a trustee of the Uni- versity, and as chairman of the Trustees' Committee on the Graduate School was deeply interested in the planning and erec- tion of the Graduate College. There is a curious echo in the memorial chamber. A turret stair leads to the top of the tower, from which the finest view in Princeton is obtained. 104 Guide to Princeton At the southwest corner of Thomson quadrangle is the Pyne Tower (named for the donor, Mr. M. Taylor Pyne, of the Class of 1877) which contains besides the apartment of the Master in residence the vestibule connecting the Common Room with Procter Hall, the dining hall and chief public room of the Graduate Col- lege. This hall was erected by William Cooper Procter, Class of 1883, as a memo- rial to his parents. It is 36 by 108 feet. The great western Memorial Window over the high table is the co-labor of Mr. and Mrs. William Willet, the artists of the chancel window of the West Point Chapel. The window represents the Light of the World illuminating the Seven Liberal Arts of Christian Learning. In the predella, or lower part, of the window, is the Child Jesus in the Temple, surrounded by members of the Sanhedrin, among whom may be noticed Nicodemus on his left, Joseph of Arimathea on his right, with the long beard, and Ga- maliel studying a scroll of the law. Above the predella is the Latin text: ''Qui ad jiistitiam enidiunt multos quasi stellae in The University 105 perpetuas aeternitates' (They that instruct many in righteousness shall shine as the stars for ever and ever). The seven lancet windows above the pre- della contain the figures of Seven Liberal Arts — Dialectica (or Logic) in the center, on the right Rhetorica, Astronomica, Musi- ca; on the left Grammatica, Geometrica, Arithmetica. At the base of each lancet is emblazoned a shield with a device appro- priate to the Art symbolized above it. The traceries above the lancets are filled with stars in a deep blue night sky. Cut in the stone below the window is the Latin text: "Nee vocemini magistri quia magister v es- ter unus est Christus" (And call not your- selves masters, for One is your Master — even Christ). The manner of treatment is the medie- val, the artists having looked to the 14th cen- tury for their inspiration; only pure colors (about eight in number) are used; and these have been superimposed on one an- other without paints or enamels; the glass is blown, and the coloring imperishable. The window at sunset is unforgettable. io6 Guide to Princeton The carving over the fireplace in Procter Hall is intricate and curious. Hidden in the foliage of the oaktree may be found lizards, squirrels, caterpillars, butterflies, a rabbit, etc., and a tiger. The portraits in the Hall are the gift of Mr. Thomas S. Clarke, Class of 1882, and the great organ in the gallery is the gift of Mr. Henry C. Frick. The carved beams and rafters of the roof are of oak, chiefly from old ship tim- bers. The panelling and screen are also oak and repay close study. Wyman House, the residence of the Dean of the Graduate School, adjoins Proc- ter Hall. Over the mantel in the Dean's library are hung the flint-lock musket, pow- der horn and sword carried in the Battle of Princeton by the father of Mr. Isaac C. Wyman, Class of 1848, who bequeathed his estate to the Graduate College. The sword and musket were carried in the French and Indian War by Mr. Wyman's grandfather. The Dean's Garden, under the shadow of the great tower, contains ivies from Haddon Hall, England, from the Martin Luther The University 107 House at Wittenberg, and from Bemerton, the home of George Herbert. Set in the garden wall are window arches from Uni- versity College, Oxford, of which Shelley was a member, and window bases from Christ's College, Cambridge, Milton's col- lege, given by the Master of Christ's, Vice- Chancellor Shipley. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 208 747 9 O