Class _^^ Ir<5f Book__jSs_S3__ SMITHSONIAN DEPOSIT FIFTH THOUSAND. PLEASE READ AND CIRCULATE! LAKE SUPERIOR. SAB.lv RISTOB.V, SITUATXOZr, KAB.BOB., ^C. OCEAN COlMCnXISXlCB, • »XX»rERAZi 6c A^S^KICVLTUXLAL BESOVRCES, ' RAIL B.OADS, STAGE ROADS, 6t.C. IiUIKEBER, rXSKERZES, 6cC. OLZMASE or ItAHE SVFERXOR, rRE-£»fZFTXOIff LANDS, XNVZTATXON TO SETTLERS. AN ACCOUNT OF A PLEAStRE TOIB TO LAKE SITERIOR, Its Climate, Scenery, Pictured Rocks, Sailing Days of the Steamboats, Fare, &c. *^ L MAY, 1858. » >dgenta wanted, address Bayfield',Jfo. 13 Waihington Buildings, ddSt., Philada )0 I fS^^f:ii}6^' • ~^V;t \ 1858. THIRD EDITION.-THE THIRD THOUSAND. 1858. %Vl!«i:0.\.^li\, Ai^D IT* UESOUKCES, WITH lAKE SUPERIOR, ITS COVIMERCE AND NAVIGATION. Including a trip up the Mississippi, and a canoe voyage on the St. Croix and Brule rivers to I^ke Superior : to which are appended, the Constitution of the State, witli the Routes of tlie Principal Railroads, List' of Newspapers Post Offices, ^Pre-emption Law, Affidavits, etc. With Illustrations and an autlieii^ic iMap of Wisconsin, and the old French Jesuit Map of Lake Superior; also, a new Map of Lake Su- perior, showing the mineral regions, new towns, routes of steamboats on the Lake, etc., etc. BY JAMES S. RITCHIE. 1 vol. 12 nio. cloth, gilt, f I 25. CHARLES DESILVER, Publisher, 1 No. 71-4 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, li:;/^ Copies sent by mail, free, on receipt of the price, $1 25. For sale by Philada., J. B. Lippincott & Co. " T. B. Peterson & Bros Boston, Ticknor & Fields. « J. P. Dutton & Co. New York, Ivi.son k Phinney. " Fowler & WeWs. « J), Appleton & Co. Milwaukie, A. Whiteiuore k Co. «' J. B. Hagets. Also for sale by Bookseller? and Agents everywhere Cleveland, J. B. Cobb & Co. Detroit, M. Allen & Son. Buffalo, Phinney & Co. " Tiieo. Hutler. St. Pajil, Combs cS: Brother. Pittsburg, J. 11. Weldin. VV. B. Keen, No. 148 Lake St., Chicago. [ISTo. TOO Cliestniit St. above Seventli, A. F. GLASS. BAYFIELD HOTEL, BAYflJELD, LAKE SUPERIOR, Is a first-class Hotel. Every attention given to thoi comfort of guests. [\y^ Pleasure yachts and teams for the accommodation of visitors, etc. JOSEPH McCLOUD, BAYFIELD, .WLSCOi^S$liV J THE EARLY HISTORY BAYFIELD, LAKE SUPERIOR. There is no one subject which presents to the antiquarian and the scholar a finer field for investigation than the early discovery and settlement of that portion of our country bordering on the great lakes. This region was partially explored by French missionaries and voya- geurs from Canada, several years before the Englisli cfivaliers landed on Virginia soil, and many years before the arrival of the Pilgrim Fathers on the rock at Plymouth. It was not the thirst of Sordid gain that influenced the first white man who looked down into the clear waters of Lake Superior, or who gazed with awe upon the mighty Mississippi, rolling down its turbid flood from the unknown wilds above. The spirit of religious enthusiasm explored the basin of the great lakes and the valley of the Mississippi. To the society of Jesus was given the task of civilizing and christianizing the red men of the north-west. From Quebec they ascended the Ottawa, and crossing the chain of small lakes, they preached the word of God in the hovels of the Algonquins on the Bays of Huron. They sailed among the islands of the Manitouline Archipelago, and at Saut. St. Marie, at the outlet of Superior ; entering that vast inland sea, they settled at Bayfield, and at La Pointe, three miles distant, and pene- trated to the furthest extremity, where the St. Louis, white with the foam of its cataracts, enters the lake amid groves of pine. The vene- rable fathers who undertook this great and pious work, looked to no human praise for their reward, to no human sympathy for their toil or suffering. Kissing the symbol of their faith, and with the *' Te Deum laudamus" issuing from their parched lips, they laid down their lives in the wilderness — their requiem the crackling of the fagots, their funeral anthem the war-whoop of the Indian. No where in the States have there been enacted more stirring scenes than in the pioneer set- tlements of Lake Superior. If all these events could be written — the journeyings into the wilderness, the hand to hand struggle with hardship and want, the years of toil, the stern and lofty heroism, in strifes where no world looked on to applaud — would produce a history whose pages would outshine the greatest work of fiction that the imagination could possibly produce. SITUATION OF BAYFIELD. If one were to point out on the map of North America, a site for a great commercial city, it would be in the immediate vicinity of the "Apostles' Isles." A city so located would have the command of the mineral trade, the fisheries, and the lumber of the entire North. It would become the metropolis of a great commercial empire. Bayfield is situated on the southern shore of Lake Superior, in La Pointe coun- ty, Wisconsin, about eighty miles cast of the town of Superior and directly opposite La Pointe on Madaline Island, from which it is sep»- 'Z'dJ rated by a channel two miles wide witli an average depth of water of about sixty feet. This channel is so enclosed by the group of islands, known as Apostles' Islands, that it is protected against wiuds from any and all directions. The channels of entrance into the Bay are wide and deep, making it one of the safest and most commodious natural harbors in the world. Its geographical position for commer- cial advantages, as will be seen by reference to a map of the surround- ing country, is equalled by few and excelled by none of the most favored localities in the north-west. '• The contiguous country, for some twenty miles west and south-west, is hilly, hut not generally precipitous, the soil is good, and heavily timbered with the white and Xorway pine, white birch, balsam, sugar maple, soft maple, basswood and oak. Thence, ' the country spreads out into beautifully undulating oak and pine openings,' of excellent soil, extending to the rich valleys of the St. Croix and Chippeway rivers, and almost entirely free from swamps, rendering the opening of roads to the St. Croix and Mississippi settlements easy to be accom- plished. "The surface upon which the town of Bayfield is laid out is most admirably adapted to health, convenience and beauty. That portion of the plot south of Washington avenue and east of Fourth street is level and dry bottom land. From this area the surface rises gently in north-westerly, westerly and south-westerly directions to the confines of the plot, from the higher portions of which numerous springs rise, furnishing an abundant supply of excellent water. The grounds are so laid out, that all the avenues and ten of the eighteen streets ter- minate on the Bay. In short, the location need only be seen to be admired." The land was located and the town site selected by the lion. Henry M. Rice, whose far-seeing sagacity, in such matters at least, is acknowledged by all acquainted with him.* The town was laid out in the spring of 185G. The proprietors have expended a large amount of money in the building of two substantial piers, a large saw mill, capable of cutting between two and throe million feet of lumber annu- ally, a commodious hotel, and in opening a road to the St. Croix river to the lumber region, which connects with other roads leading to the Falls of St. Croix, St. Paul, etc. The buildings in the town are generally larger and more substantial than in most of the new towns on the Lake. During the past year a jNlcthodist church was built, and it is in contemplation to erect an Episcopal and a Presby- terian churcli this season. It is confidently anticipated that the Presbyterian church will be built during the summer^ and that a minis- ter of that denomination will reside here. For the encouragement of settlers, the owners of Bayfield lots have determined to sell them very low, to those only, however, who will improve. This is the true policy, and by this means speculators, the curse of every new country, are prevented from monopolizing property • Senator Rice was one of the pioneers of St. Paul, and early predicted its rapid growth; ho now predicts that Bayfield has quite as bright a future as St, Pivul. 3 to the detriment of the interests of the town. The contemplated be- ginning of the work on the Railroad at Bayfield will create great de- mand for labor and all kinds of material. RAILROAD GRAND GRANT. A few months after the town was laid out, Congress granted to the State of Wisconsin, two million acres of land to aid in the construction of certain railroads, the terminus of one (the St. Croix and Lake Su- perior) it was specifically stated in the grant should be at Bayfield. " Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United States of Am rica in Concrj-ess assembled, That there be and is hereby granted to the State of Wisconsin, for the purpose of aiding in the construction of a railroad, from Madison or Columbus, by the way of Portage city to the St. Croix river or Lake, between townships twenty-five and thirty-one, and from thence to the west end of Lake Superior, and to Bayfield. Every alternate section of land designated by odd numbers for six sections in width on each side of said roads respectively, etc., etc. Approved June 3, 1856." PRE-EMPTION LANDS. In consequence of this grant all the public lands in the northern part of Wisconsin were immediately withdrawn from sale, even from pre-emption. These lands are now restored to market. Were this fact fully understood among those now emigrating to the north-west, as well as that an immense amount of the very best land is still unen- tered, which would, in as favorable situations in Minnesota, readily command from fifteen to twenty dollars per acre, there could hardly fail to be tens of thousands pouring in to take possession of this region. To pre-empt means to occupy. The settler leaving his family in the East until he makes his arrangements, on arrival at Bayfield, exam- ines the land, and makes his selection. He then erects a shanty, or a bouse, if he has the means, cuts down a few trees, covering a half acre, clears it off. Then he files a written notice of his intentions at the Bayfield Land Office, describing the land, see page 314 in the new work on Wisconsin and Lake Superior. Full instructions and the ne- cessary affidavits are there given to those making a " r/am." Then the settler receives his certificates from the Land Office, and has one year to pay for his farm. A "minor," who is the head of a family, or a " widow," may also pre-empt, their families being required to live on the land. The largest quantity of land one person is entitled to enter is one hundred and sixty acres. Uncle Sam is a liberal land- lord, and will take his pay in land warrants, which are now selling at the rate of about ninety-seven cents per acre, or one dollar and a quarter in cash. Thus a poor man can secure a rich farm near Bay- field of 40 or IGO acres, as suits him, for the large sum of $50 or $200 ! There are still thousands of persons at the East, who look toward Bayfield with a disposition to emigrate ; perhaps they mete out from year to year a bare subsistence, the year rolls by, and if they have enjoyed the right to labor during the bulk of it, they have accumu- lated but little. Imagine some of these persons on their own farms, the plough in their grasp and fortune before them. Where, then. would be the result of their labor I House, ploughed land, fenccSj. barns would grow under their hand with half the labor now given to procure a living, and every day's work would be for themselves, and would add to their own personal wealth, to say nothing of the yearly rise in tlieir property. The immediate vicinity of Bayfield to the immense pineries which cover so large a portion of North-western Wis- consin, as well as to the untold wealth of the mineral region uf Lake Superior, secures to the farmer a home market for everything he can raise, at prices as high and often higher than he can obtain in the eastern cities, while an abundance of lumber of the very best quality can always be had at first cost. The Legislature of Wisconsin recently chartered a company to make a plank or turnpike road from St. Croix Falls to Bayfield and Supe- rior. It is expected that during the summer there will be a regular mail coach lino established, running from Bayfield to connect with other lines to the Mississippi, to St. Paul and other places. Three niail contracts were given out the latter part of April by the Post Ofiice Department, viz., one from Chippewa Falls to Bayfield, one from St. Croix Falls to Bayfield, and one from Superior throusr/i Bay- field to Ontonagon. The contractors having the route from Bayfield to St. Croix Falls, (near St. Paul,) havcag reed to send out men and material at once to Bayfield to arrange for carrying the mail and all passengers through. They will at once build station houses on the route and say that they will be prepared to accommodate all the tra- velling public. It has been confidently asserted, that Bayfield is hy. water nearer to Cleveland and Buffalo than Chicago is. Mr. J. S. Ritchie in his entertaining guide book on Wisconsin and Lake Supe- rior, a work invaluable to tlie tourist and emigrant, and which should be in the hands of every visitor to the north-west, says: " When the S(. Croir and Lake Superior Railroad is completed, an astomsh^ ing revolution will be made in the transhipment of freight to the north-west. As it is a settled fact that trans])ortation is impelled by ;in irresistablc impulse into the cheapest and most direct channels of eoniMiiinication, the following statements and tables of distances will prove tluit tlie Lake Superior route is not only the nearest, but by far the cheapest means of shii)ping freight to the north-west, and a saving in time of from ten days to two weeks. Let us take New York as a starting point from the seaboard, and St. Paul, at tiie head of navigation of the Mississippi, as the terminus. The distances between these places are as follows: Miles. From New York to Chicago, by canal via Albany and Buttalo, and by steamboat via Detroit, ..... 163'2 From Chicago, by railroad via Dunleath, and via steamboat to St. Paul, ---..-.. 568 2200' From New York to- Butialo via canal, . _ .. - 508 " Buffalo to Bayfield via steamers and propellers, - - 1001 «' Bayllcld via raikoad to St. Paul, ... - 160 172^ Showing a difference of 471 miles, and one transhipment less in favor of the Lako Superior route. COPPER AND IRON. la the immediate vicinity of Bayfield large lumps of botb copper and iron ore have been found. In grading one of the streets of the town a lump of very pure copper ore weighing several pounds was picked up. Our limits forbid a description of the vast mineral re- sources of the Lake Superior region, the mountains of iron ore and the extensive veins of pure copper mixed with silver. Mr. Ritchie's "work contains a minute account, together with the recent discoveries of the ancient mines. FISHERIES. In the neighborhood of Bayfield, among the group of the Apostles' Islands, fisheries are established, which will add greatly to the popu- lation and wealth of the town. Several thousand barrels of fish are exported yearly from these fisheries. The product of the fisheries of Lake Superior are of great importance to the inhabitants and States which lie on its borders. It abounds with the most delicious fresh water fish known. The flavor of its trout, white fish and others, is nmeh superior to that of the other lakes, and they, command a higher price in market. This branch of commerce is increasing very fast in consequence of the opening of the Saut. Ship Canal, and rapid increase of settlement along the lake. When the northern part of Wisconsin and Minnesota becomes more thickly settled, an immense quantity of grain, flour, etc., will' be sent to the East from Bayfield, the most direct route. The lumber busi- ness, also, will in a short time be very extensively carried on, and the future opens a bright prospect for this branch of industry. DIRECT TRADE WITH EITROPE. Vessels can as easily sail from Europe to Bayfield, as from Chicago to Liverpool. The experiment of an uninterrupted navigation from the lakes to the Atlantic Ocean was proved by the successful voyage of the Schooner Dean Richmond, in the Spring of iSoG, fro/n Chicago to Liverpool, and the arrival of the British Schooner, Madeira Pet, the 14th of July, 1857, with a cargo of merchandize from Liverpool, at Chicago. What is true of Chicago is true of Bayfield. What is possible by the St. Lawrence river and canals, is equally possible with the great Ship Canal of the Saut. St. Marie. The Detroit Advertiser of a recent date, says ; " The vessels which Captain Pierce will send out this Spring to Liverpool with cargoes, are the barques C. J. Ker- shaw, 382 tons burden ; Chieftain,. 370 tons-, brigs Black Hawk, 388 tons ; Cuyahoga Chief, 384 tons, and a three-masted schooner named the Indian Queen. ST. MARY'S FALLS SHIP CANAL. Congress, in the year 1852, granted 750,000 acres of land to build this canal, it was finished in 3Iay, 1855, and is superior to any thing of its kind on this Continent. Its locks are the largest in the world. The canal is about seven-eighths of a mile in length, one hundred and fifteen feet wide at the top of the water, containing a depth of water of twelve feet, and is principally excavated through rock. This Ship vttoal has opened to the loM'er lakes a navigation of fully a thousand. 6 miles. The following shows the estimated amount of freight for the past three years, as taken from the bills of lading furnished by the masters of vessels : The total value of up freight for the years 1855-G, was $4,425,700 Down freight : 1855. 1856. 1857. Coppdr, tons, 3,190i 5,72Gi 5,759i Iron ore, 1,447 11,297 20,1844 Estimated value, including iron blooms, fisL, &c., for 1855-6, $2,875,000 " « " for 1857, 3,005,775 Total value of down freight siuce the canal was completed, $5,880,805 The number of passengers passing throueh the canal in 1855, was 4,270 ; in 1856, 4,074, and in 18o7, 0,050. Mr. Andrews forcibly rcmiirks, in his official roport to government, in the year 1850: — "Our sliip{)ing will have an uninterrupted sweep over waters which drain more than three hundred thousand square miles, of a region abounding in mineral and agricultural resources. They may be water-borne nearly half way across the Continent. The inexhaustable elements of wealth on the shores of Lake Superior will then become available." iVgain he says : — " The summer tour of travelers will he extended to a cruise around Lake Superior^ and from La Pointe, i. e. Bayfield, many will cross over to the Falls of St. Anthony on the Mississippi river,'''' It affords us great pleasure to bear our testimony to the accomplishment of these predictions of Mr. Andrews. The summer tour from Bayfield to St. Paul has repeatedly been made. The Messrs. McClond drove over on several occasions in a light buggy in the sprirtg and fall of 1857. AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES. The soil in most j>arts of "Wisconsin is composed of the black deposit of decayed vegetation, which for ages has flourished in wild luxuri- ance, and rotted upon the surface. A soil thus created, of impalpable powder, fonned of the elements of organic matter — the dust of death — is adapted to the highest and most profitable purposes of agriculture, yielding crop after crop in rank abundance, without an artificial manur- ing. An intelligent traveler, in a communication published in the Cincinnati Gazette of the 9th of August, 1855, says: — "Fifty years labor in New England, or twenty years' toil in Ohio, are not equal in their results to five industrious years in Wisconsin." The land near Bayfield will return a greater yield of crops, for less labor, and then prices are but little under Eastern markets ; transportation is so cheap and speedy, which renders this land as valuable as those of the East. A fortune could be made in supplying the steamboats and hotels alone with vegetables. The following is the result of our experiment in potatoes growing in new land near the town of Superior. " In June, 1857, four potatoes were selected, weighing nearly one pound each ; they were cut into eighty-two sets, each set with a single eye, and they occupied fifty-six square feet ; were planted June 22d, and dug up October 22d, in presence of numerous witnesses. The product was two hundred and ninety-four potatoes, weighing eighty-one pounds, or at the rate of ten huntired and fifty-six bushels to the acre, of 60 pounds to the bushel." " Nearly all the productions of the Middle States are raised ; finer peas, beans, etc., I have never met with in horticultural exhibitions j in fact we can beat old Ireland in size and quality of potatoes." A correspondent of the Superior Chronicle of October 14th, 1856, says : "I measured onions, grown from seed, that were thirteen indies in c'rcumference, and a crook-necked squash that measured twenty sexisn inches long by eleven in circumference; oats heavily corned, and fully ripe, sixty inches in height, and tomatoes weighing one pound each. One parsnip, which was pulled for me, measuretl 32 inches ; this was not its entire length, as the end remained in the ground. A beet, pulled at the same time, measured twenty inches. It has been demonstrated that we can raise large crops of hay, wheats oats, peas, beans, salad, radishes, cucumbers, turnips, beets, carrots, parsnips, pumpkins, etc." A farmer, (an emigrant from Maine,) assured me that standing in his meadow, he could barely sec over the fields of grass. The stalks averaging about five and a half feet in height! ,We mention these instances for the purpose of correcting a false impres- sion which has hitherto prevailed, that it was too far North to raise vegetables. Want of room alone prevented the writer from bringing East, in his ti-unk, a turnip weighing fifteen pounds, some cno7'mous beets, and a potatoe weighing two pounds. Space, however, was f>und for S')me tnbacc > leaves, one measuring twenty-six inches in length by fourteen in width, and several pntatues weighing from three-quarteis to one and one-eighth pounds each. These specimens were especially admired by farmers in the neighborhood of Pliiladelphia, for their appearance, size and quality. AV^e might also mention that forty-five potatoes to the bushel is of common occurrence in this region. '-. We have often remarked the surprise of travelers, evidently farmers, on their first visit to this region, at the appearance of our agricultural productions. " Well ! that beats old York State," says one. " Aye, and old Pennsylvania," says another ; while a third remarks, '' If that was known in Chester or Bucks county, half the farmers would emigrate." One, more inquiring than the rest, would ask the price of the land ; when told it was " taken up " at government price — that is one dollar and a quarter per acre — what says he ? " A farm of 160 acres for two hundred dollars'?" Even so, my friend, and thousands of acres waiting for such as you to cultivate. Let those who reside in cities, and cannot find profitable employ- ment, come here and raise their food out of the bosom of the earth. Thousands have made the experiment, and to-daj are among the wealthiest and most respected of our citizens. It is incomprehensible to me to see so many hai'd-workiag farmers, laboring in the Eastern States on miserable farms, from ten to one hundred acres in size, when such inducements are oiFered near Bay- field, as buying farms at low prices, or selecting to suit themselves from government land at $1 25 per acre. The rapidity also with which internal improvements advance, approximates with each year the value of produce near the market-prices of the East, and, consequently, gives an enhanced value to their farms. We ftsaert that a good farmer or mechanic failing to succeed in BajBeld is almost an impossibility. In fact we would like to hear of one. The first crop raised generally pays both for the farm, clearing timber and improvements. Again, in proportion as the population increases, houses must be built, and these houses must give employ- ment to mechanics to build them, and to all kinds of tradesmen to support them, and the remuneration tliat will be paid in every case will be very great. Ld it be a'so remembered, that every mechanic or day-laborer, besides his daily wages, can pre-empt a farm of 160 acreSf and from his snvin